i rf~^*~*n rrrrTTTTl — i r i n' iiiiiiiii n i i r r-rnrmwwrTnrmiirriiimii w niiiii ■miii in — n » nn 1 1 i—i i i i EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS BY AL G. EBERHART ir ^«iii...ii.. l rM»n«. :3\£ TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 3 9090 014 530 725 Webster Family Library of Veterinary Medici Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine al Tufts University 200 Westboro Road ^ gp j "i ll' ^lfol n ^^l n == T fo THIRD EDITION, 1917 Copyrighted by A. G. Eberhart YT t" gllllllllllllllli lllllllll]|illl!| \i iniiiiiiiiiiiiii ABOUT iiiniiiiiiiiiiig |V| Cr |iiiiiiiiiiii ^^ /^ ^^ ^? liiiniiiiiiiii!| ^* Written and Compiled by AL. G. EBERHART Proprietor of The Eberhart Kennels Camp Dennison, - Ohio / — ALL HIS LIFE IN DOGS TEARING a puppy — and properly caring for it through life — 'till it dies from old age— and is buried in the yard. Caring for dogs in health, treating all diseases, teaching them good habits, and cor- recting bad ones. Breeding and rearing puppies, properly feeding dogs, and advice given on matters pertaining to the dog's welfare that have never been given in similar works. Containing also many VALUABLE PRESCRIPTIONS, now made public for the first time. lUI Sent by Mail Postpaid, Upon Receipt of Price Paper Bound $1.10 Cloth Bound $1.60 Published for AL. G. EBERHART by the FIELD AND FANCY PUBLISHING CORP. 14 Church Street, New York City ^j j a n == i lf51 li =J ll i n ff Insist Upon Your Dealer Supplying You With Spratt's Dog Cakes and Puppy Biscuits Remember that a dog fed on SPRATT'S is always a credit to his master At three shows recently over 3,000 prizes were won by dogs fed regularly and exclusively on SPRATT'S DOG FOODS To owners of Pekingese, Toys and "shy feeders" we recommend SPRATT'S FIBO The most appetizing granulated dog food on the market ASK FOR Spratt's Improved Mollicoddles A valuable and easily digested cake, suitable for puppies, exotic breeds, etc. ^f\v Send stamp for cata- logue which contains valuable informa- tion regarding general man- agement, feed i n g , etc. SPRATT'S PATENT LIMITED NEWARK, NEW JERSEY SAN FRANCISCO ST. LOUIS CLEVELAND Factory also in LONDON, ENGLAND MONTREAL THIRD EDITION 1917 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS EDITED AND COMPILED BY AL. G. EBERHART, ALL HIS LIFE A DOG FANCIER Treating and caring for dogs in disease and health, breeding, feed- ing, and rearing puppies. Teaching dogs good habits and correcting bad ones. Advice given and matters written on pertaining to the dog's wel- fare, that no similar work has yet contained. Also many VALUABLE PRESCRIPTIONS now made public for the first time, in fact, Taking proper care of a dog from its birth — through life — till it dies from old age — and is buried in the yard. Published for The Eberhart Kennels, CAMP DENISON, OHIO by THE FIELD AND FANCY PUBLISHING CORPORATION, 14 CHURCH STREET, NEW YORK CITY. fv^S Copyrighted by AL. G. EBERHART 1917. MY CREED. SO NOT keep the alabaster boxes of your love and tenderness sealed up until your friends are dead. Fill their lives with sweetness. Speak approving, cheering words while their ears can hear them, and while their hearts can be thrilled and made happier by them; the kind things you mean to say when they are gone, say before they go. The flowers you mean to send for their coffins, send to brighten and sweeten their homes before they leave them. If my friends have alabaster boxes laid away, full of fragrant perfumes of sympathy and affection, which they intend to break over my dead body, I would rather they would bring them out in my weary and troubled hours, and open them, that I may be refreshed and cheered by them while I need them. I would rather have a plain coffin without a flower, a funeral without a eulogy, than a life without the sweetness of love and sympathy. Let us learn to anoint our friends beforehand for their burial. Post-mortem kindness does not cheer the troubled spirit. Flowers on the coffin cast no fragrance backward over life's weary way. Always for Dogs — Faithfully yours THE AMERICAN FIELD THE SPORTSMAN'S JOURNAL THE RECOGNIZED AUTHORITY ESTABLISHED 1874 PUBLISHED WEEKLY The AMERICAN FIELD is the Sportsman's Newspapers of America, col- lecting news by its own staff representatives and special reporters, giving authoritative reports of leading events in the fancier's and sportsman's world. Its recreative columns are always replete with interesting articles and contributions, and open a wide field for discussion of all subjects that interest fanciers and sportsmen. The Departments of the AMERICAN FIELD are: Editorial, Game and Shooting, Fish and Fishing, Natural History, Fox Hunting, Kennel, Trap Shooting', Rifle, Revolver, Pistol, Queries and Answers. Field Dog' Stud Book registrations published every week. If you want to know what is going on in the KENNEL WORLD subscribe for the AMERICAN FIELD, or send for a sample copy, that will be sent you free on request. To Breeders and Fanciers If you are interested in Setters and Pointers, send for American Field Futurity blanks, sent free. If you are interested in authentic registrations send for Field Dog Stud Book registration blanks, sent free. If you are interested in dogs in any way send One Dollar for three months' trial subscription. If not more than satisfied with it the money will be refunded on request. Address American Field Publishing Co. 801 Masonic Temple Chicago KIPLING SAID "Buy a pup and your money will buy love unflinching that can- not lie." INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. A Plain and Common Sense Talk About && DOGS &e AT LAST! The crowning and final effort of my life — for dogs — is accomplished, and this third and final edition of "EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS" is out. Many days and nights 'till the clock would strike up to three in the morning, have I sat at my desk and written, handicapped by my eyes, (one of them having been operated on and a cataract removed), and when 1 started this book I was afraid the strain on them would be more than they could stand, but took the chance, for I felt it was my duty to dogs, because I knew how much good it would do dogs, to get to the dog owners of this country what is in this book, and my reward for all this labor of love is ever present within me, and I am now fully repaid, aside from the profit consideration part of it in dollars, and this part not so great as it should have been, due to the inflated cost of paper and everything else pertaining to attempting to get out a book in war times, but I never started to do anything and changed my mind, or failed to get through with it. I've had human friends "change their minds" — and fail me — in time of need, but never a dog — and this is another "difference" between a man and a dog. The word "man" used here, applies to both sexes in humans — as I have found it, even if the women are now voting in several states. I want to say, before going any further, that I am not writing through any spirit of egotism or self-flattery, not "throwing bouquets at myself" — (never could stand for this in anyone), and I hope you will not misjudge me as to this, for I've been truthful and honest all my life, and will keep it up this way. There never was another "dog book" just like this — others may be larger, more pretentious, the language used of a higher grade — and all that, but this book is what I believe, and feel, will accomplish its ami— to do good to dogs — and that's what I wrote it for. There is so much in the book that is good (not all my own real knowledge), but this book means, and isr^— the best knowledge that could be gathered together, from my experience of all my life in dogs, and of others, more wise than I. It has all been done for dogs, my love for dogs, my earnest and upper- most desire through all the many years of my life — do good to dogs, and 1 have been hunting for — saving up — trying and digesting carefully, every- thing herein, so as to feel reasonably sure it was good for dogs, and the book is put out with a most comfortable feeling that it will do a mighty lot of good to dogs. Humans may "bite" you, (watch out for that bite, for I know), but never will your dog bite you — and harm you. Often bitten by dogs I have been, but the dog did not know he was biting his best friend, but the humans who did "bite" me — they knew. My father was a minister for forty years, and I used to have the idea that I would get into Heaven on the "family ticket," but I now believe, that should I fail on this, that what I've done for dogs will pass me in — (or ought to) — anyhow, I've two chances. I made my will not long ago, and in it a provision as to a home for each of the dogs in the kennel when I am called away, (you should do the same), and when it's time to go to the mysterious beyond, about the last comforting feeling will be, that my loved dogs will be cared for nearly as well as I have done for them. In a preface to a former edition I said to own a thoroughbred dog, so as not to have to apologise to your friends when they saw your dog, but I want to change this now — to, own a dog — any kind of a dog, even if not pedigreed — just so it's a dog — so you can make that one dog happy. My heart aches, often, when I see a poor homeless cur on the streets, hungry and thirsty — and if it were possible, I would take that dog home — but there is a limit to everything. That night, after in bed, I lay awake, thinking of that poor, homeless dog I met on the street in the city today. By this time many who read this will have decided that I am a "krank" — so I am — as to dogs — and proud of it. The "curs" you see on the streets, homeless and friendless, are to be blamed for, because of the owners of female dogs, that were not kept up, but were allowed to run loose on the street when in season, (but should have been), and here is where the mongrels come from. There ought to be a law in every state that when a female is in season, she must be kept confined till over it, or, a penalty of a fine of twenty-five dollars, for here is where these "curs" come from. If you see or meet one of these poor "unfortunates," if you can't give him a home yourself, try to get some friend to take the dog and give it the home any and every dog deserves. Twenty-two thousand of my former two editions of this book were sold, a wonderful record, beating the combined sales of all the other dog books ever published, and I only wish it were possible to publish the thousands of letters I have received unsolicited — for they have made my heart glad — often — when it needed it too. You can't do too much for dogs, and all you do for them they will re- pay you a hundred fold. When you get a dog, arrange to care for it properly; provide a suitable place for it to live and sleep, and especially see to it that your dog gets plenty of exercise, which is as essentially necessary as food and water to keep it in health. When you take your dog for a walk, teach him to mind you; if he runs too far ahead, call him back, and never allow him to cross over the street ahead of you, as any dog is liable to do should he see another dog on the other side. A dog's judgment is faulty as to how quick he can get over . In front of a car coming, and when he sees the other dog he forgets all this and doesn't see or hear the electric car or auto that is rapidly coming up or down the street. Many a dog has been killed this way, even when out with his master or mistress, because they were not watching out for their dog. When you come to a street crossing, look and see if any car is coming; stop a second, see that your dog is behind you and that it stops; then, if the coast is clear say "All right, come on, Jack!" Your dog can soon be taught to follow and mind you. The writer has for years past taken out from fifteen to twenty dogs at a time every afternoon for a walk on the streets of Cincinnati, and all under such control that by the crack of a whip they would all stop at a crossing, and a second crack and say "Go!" over they flew, and enjoyed it, too. With only one dog for a walk no danger need ever befall him if you are watching out for him as you should do. If your dog gets into the bad habit of running and barking at a horse, bicycle or a person, break him of this at once by calling him to you there and then; scold him and switch him sharply over his back — any dog can soon be broken of this by proper punishment at the time, or of any fault if he is punished and knows what it is for. Whipping a dog after the fault does no good and is only an unnecessary infliction. Whipping is not necessarily cruelty any more than it would be to punish your child when it needed it, and children need it oftener than dogs do. Get a rawhide, keep it handy, and when your dog needs it give him a few sharp cuts across the rump or back, which will smart and sting, and he'll remember it. Never strike him over the head or kick him, which is brutal. Don't get angry yourself, keep cool, for the dog can notice this the same as your child could, and the punishment loses its effect. Your dog loves you from the first hour you have him, and he'll love you none the less for a deserved punishment. Whipping is not necessary with all dogs, scolding answering the pur- pose in many cases. Dogs possess so much intelligence that a good scolding, especially in older ones, will do just as well, and I consider it preferable. I have dogs now that act heart-broken when I scold them and continue so till I again talk to them and "make up" by saying, "Don't you know, Jack, that you were a very bad dog?" and. "Now if you'll be good I'll forgive you, but you mustn't do so any more." Then see how happy Jack is and how he'll jump all over you for joy. You can reason with all dogs. The "punishment should fit the crime," and therefore use judgment. When your dog deserves praise, don't be stingy about giving it, but talk to him; he'll understand your words and oaresses, and by his actions, the loving looks from his eyes and the wag of his tail, he'll show you how much he appreciates it. As to giving sulphur to dogs, this is an old tradition handed down from no one knows where, and here is where many dog owners make a mistake. If your dog gets sick your neighbor will say: "Oh, give it some sulphur." Whoever invented this idea knew very little about dogs. Sul- phur in its place is all right, but a continual use of it to excess thins the blood, weakens the dog, and does harm far more than good. Many a poor dog has been overdosed with sulphur when it did not need it at all. I've heard of people keeping a lump of sulphur in the dog's drinking pan, and in this case it did no harm nor any good, for you can leave a lump of it in water for ten years and the dog never gets any of it, because sulphur and water do not mix, and it only serves to give the water a nasty taste in the imagination of the dog. Sulphur given about once a month in summer is all right for grown dogs; the proper dose being for large breeds, a good teaspoonful of flour of sulphur smoothly mixed in milk, to be given before breakfast; an even teaspoonful for smaller breeds. It can also be given mixed up in molasses, which will, however, act more quickly as a physic. If you live in a flat, or have no yard so the dog can get grass, you can plant some grass seed in a box and have it all the year around for your dog to eat. Get the seed of the kind of grass that dogs like — any seed store has it — and you can just as well raise and keep grass for your dog as you can raise flowers indoors. Keep box sitting on floor so dog can go to it when he wants to. You provide the grass, and he'll do the rest. This preface or introductory, is about all I can say — it seems to me it has covered the subject, but read all the rest in the book, under the several headings, so you don't miss anything of all the good things this book con- tains. So I'll close, by dedicating the book to dogs, and their owners. Faithfully yours, AL. G. EBERHART. CARD. This Book I AM A VERY BUSY MAN IN DOGS. My mail is heavy and my time valuable. Should contain — as I have tried to make it — all necessary information and which I hope you will find in it, by a careful perusal — but if you don't so find and deem it necessary to write me as to any special case, such letters must be accompanied by an enclosure of One Dollar to receive attention. This course is rendered neces- sary to justify me for time spent. You SHOULD find in the book, advice and treatment for every case of a sick dog — and I hope you will — if not, then write. AL. G. EBERHART. EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS DISEASES Administering Medicine. — It is foolish to force medicine down a dog's throat if he can be "tricked" into taking it naturally, without even being aware that he is doing so. Even when force is necessary there is no need for opening a dog's teeth when liquid is to be given, for if poured into the patient's cheek it will drain through the teeth. When a dog refuses to swal- low whatever is placed in his mouth — as he is liable to do — all that is neces- sary is to hold his head up and close his nostrils and jaws for a couple of seconds. Giving pills to some dogs is a more difficult matter. Hold the dog's head well up, open mouth with your left hand, and place the pill well down his throat on the base of the tongue, quickly close his jaws for a second and slightly chuck your hand or finger agaist his throat and he is bound to make a gulp and swallow it. Some dogs are very cute and will keep the pill inside or on one side and when you are not looking will quickly spit it out, so watch them for a minute or so to be sure the pill has gone down. Pills can also be given hid in a piece of meat (providing the dog is not so sick that he has refused food), but if you give them pills this way, fool the dog by giving him first a few pieces of meat one at a time, having your prepared piece handy when he will not suspect and will take it, following it up with a few more pieces of meat. A great many dogs will take — when not too sick — castor oil, cod liver oil, syrup of phosphates, and many powders even, in a little savory broth or porridge. When powders are refused in food, mix them in a little butter, honey or syrup, and place well back on the tongue. With large and pow- erful dogs the mouth can be held open by twisting a towel around the upper jaw, and an assistant is generally necessary except with small toy dogs, which can be held tightly between the knees while giving the med- icine. As soon as the medicine is placed on the tongue, close the mouth and hold it shut till dog is seen to swallow, but must not be held so as to interfere with his breathing through the nostrils. The best way to give liquid medicine is to gently raise the dog's head and form a pouch or pocket by drawing outwards -and slightly upwards the lower lip at the corner of the mouth, and gradually pouring into the funnel thus formed. Gelatine capsuls are very handy in administering powders. If the dose is bulky it is better to divide it up among several small capsules than it is to try to inclose it in a single large one. Powders are also adminis- tered by mixing with butter, syrup or glycerine. Injections. — Use a rubber syringe, never a glass one, as they are dan- gerous. A bulb syringe with a flexible tube two or three inches long I find 10 DISEASES the best, as you can so handily hold the bulb in your hand and work it quickly when ready before the dog can get out of position. The regular fountain syringe is also very good. For injection in the ear there is a regular ear syringe made. Following was published in Field and Fanoy, and is very good: MEDICINES AND THEIR ADMINISTRATION. "There is nothing analogous between the dog and the horse. The vet- erinarian who treats a dog from an equine standpoint is a failure. In tem- perament and nervous organization the dog resembles man, but his diges- tive organs differ so radically taht medicine does not act on each alike. As an instance, common salt has no particular effect upon man. On the dog, in small doses, it is an emetic; in large doses, a poison. Castor oil is a mild laxative on man; on the dog it is an active purge. Epsom salts act only mildly on man; on dogs it acts violently, producing copious, watery stools. Aloes and rhubarb, recognized as purgatives on man, have no particular effect o ndogs, and so with numerous other drugs. "The dog is particularly susceptible to the action of chloroform. This is on account of the irregular heart action previously mentioned. His sensitive nervous system responds quickly to the smallest doses of strych- nine, and a minute quanty of mercury produces profuse salivation. These drugs should only be administered by an expert. Opium is not particu- larly dangerous in its action on dogs. "Between human exclamations, canine howling, coughing and gasping and occasionally biting, the dog generally escapes without the medicine. Kindness and strategy are the only safe methods for giving medicine. Aim to get the dog to take his medicine without knowing that he is getting it. This can be accomplished by having the medicine in pill form. One of the pills can be introduced into a slit made in a small cube of meat. Disarm the patient of suspicion by preparing several similar cubes of meat without the pills. Give him one of these. He may examine it, but finding it all right, will swallow it. Another should be given him. If he swallows it without examination, give him the cube containing the pill and it will follow its predecessor. Do not use fluids if it is possible to avoid them. Gelatine capsuls can be had in various sizes to accommodate all drugs. It is better to give two small capsules than one large one. To give a capsule have an attendant take a small dog in his lap; a large dog should be gently backed into a corner. Stroke the dog's head and face gently; then with the left hand held over the head just in front of the eyes, press the lips against the teeth just enough to cause him to open his mouth. Moisten the capsule, place it as far back on the tongue as possible, which can be inserted well down the throat without danger to either the dog or the physician. Close the mouth quickly and the capsule will be swallowed." The following was published in the Dog Fancier, written by their veterinarian, Dr. D. H. Hall, and is worth publishing, containing many good ideas: DISEASES 11 ADMINISTRATION AND APPLICATION OF REMEDIES TO CANINE PATIENTS. "In the treatment of dogs or other domestic animals one great obstacle to successful medication is the difficulty often encountered in the adminis- tration of remedies. Dogs frequently refuse to swallow liquids or offer such strenuous ob- jections that a portion of the medicine is spilled and the quantity admin- istered becomes merely speculative. Hence it is not advisable to use liquid medicines at all for dogs if it can be avoided. Hypodermic injections of alkaloidal "solutions are the most prompt, effi- cient and reliable method of administration we have, but as it pre-supposes the possession of a hypodermic syringe the plan is not feasible in the ma- jority of instances. Other methods are to have the remedies incorporated in tablet or granule form or given in gelatin capsules. For ordinary purposes this is the most convenient method. The tablet or capsule can be placed toward the back of the tongue and readily forced back with the finger far enough so that to swallow is the only thing the patient can do. Always treat him kindly and give an approbative pat on the head and when the time for the next dose arrives he will be ready for it. At times liquid medicines are necessary, especially saline laxatives, and as they are decidedly of unpleasant taste and the dose necessarily large it is frequently quite a difficult matter to convince the patient that it is "not bad to take." Rochelle salts is the least nauseating of the saline laxatives and when given largely diluted with water its action is increased and the taste not so disagreeable. In giving liquids place the patient in a corner, but do not handle rough- ly. Have the medicine in a bottle or hard rubber syringe. Take hold of the fold at the angle of the mouth and pull out to form a pouch, then pour in a small quantity at a time, repeating as it is swallowed. A dose of castor oil is sometimes required, especially to supplement the action of a vermicide. If this is given in about four parts of milk the taste will be largely disguised and the administration more pleasantly effected. In applying lotions to the eye the lids can be separated by the thumb and finger and the solution dropped in from a medicine dropper. When the nasal passages are occluded by adherent discharges, appli- cations of warm water and steaming will be of benefit. For the latter, the patient can be held with the nose over a vessel containing hot water (med- icated if the case demands) and enclosing head and vessel with a towel. Care must be taken though to allow sufficient air. In applying remedies to the ear the most useful implement is a blunt, hard rubber syringe. If, however, it is necessary to apply dry powder a "blower" will be found of great service. In treating wounds the watchword should be antisepsis, but in the use of such preparations one must always bear in mind the danger that may result from the patient licking the dressing. Of antiseptics iodoform should never be used for the dog except in minute quantities, owing to 12 DISEASES liability of absorption and poisoning. In applying remedies other than per orem it sometimes becomes necessary to restrain the patient from biting his would-be benefactor. This can be accomplished by tying a long piece of tape tightly around the paws, having the knot on the under side. Then carry the ends back of the ears and tie again. In the application of unguents to the skin of long-haired dogs time is really sometimes saved by clipping. The skin can be more thoroughly cleansed and dried and the remedy more evenly applied and consequently better results obtained. In the writer's experience, no appreciable difference could ever be observed in the texture or color of the hair when it had grown out again. The clipping, however, should not be resorted to except in obstinate cases and during favorable weather. Rectal injections are frequently indicated, especially in house dogs where from lack of exercise and irregular habits the faeces becomes im- pacted. In cases of collapse, extreme weakness and refusal of food it sometimes becomes necessary to introduce predigested foods and medi- cines per rectum. The ordinary bulb syringe or those of the hard rubber variety can be used for this purpose, but the nozzle must not be pointed enough to injure the mucus membrane as abrasions of the latter might prove troublesome. In connection with the administration of medicine, it will be well to remember that all drugs act more powerfully on an empty stomach than when it holds food, either liquid or solid. Therefore, powerful remedies and those which are of irritating character, such, as arsenic, iron, nux vomica and cod-liver oil, should be given after feeding, so that they will mingle "with the food and be absorbed slowly. Oil can be administered easily if floated on milk. Whisky, alcohol and all fluids of strong taste should be freely diluted with water before administering, at least four parts of water to one of whisky. Asthma. — This is a common disease and a most distressing complaint, its victims being mostly found among house pets and toy dogs that have been overfed with a too rich diet, and lack of exercise as well. Almast every toy dog so improperly cared for and fed will develop asthma as they get along in years. The grossness of body induces and fosters it and often causes as well a kind of scurvy mange, the coat feeling harsh and dry with a rough and dirty look. The symptoms are distressing paroxysms of cough- ing with great difficulty in breathing, which occur frequently. The symp- toms exhibited are due to 'thickening of the mucus lining of the trachea and bronchial tubes which by lessening the calibre of the respiratory tract in- terferes with the act of breathing which is attended by a loud, wheezing noise. The blood is imperfectly aereated and the visible mucous mem- branes congested and dark in color. Pugs and aged Spaniels seem pre- disposed to asthmatic troubles, which, while not usually fatal, do not prove amenable to treatment. An important feature of the treatment is attention to the diet, which should be of a non-stimulating character. First relieve the animal by giving the following antispasmotic drops: Compound spirits of sulphuric ether and tincture of opium, equal parts, which keep in a cool place and well corked. DISEASES 13 The dose for a 15-lb. to 30-lb. dog would be a small teaspoonful in a couple of tablespoonfuls of gruel o'r milk. This, however, only relieves and does not cure. The dog must now have frequent doses of a brisk aperient, and a pill of the following prescription will be found very beneficial given every night for a while: Podophyllin 6 grains Compound extract of colocynth 30 grains Powdered rhubarb 4 8 grains Extract of henbane 36 grains Mix and divide into twenty-four pills. Small breeds such as Pugs or Toy Poodles give half of one of these pills. A little warm broth after the pill will assist its action. Feed rather oftener than you do your well dogs but in small quantities. Make dog take more exercise every day, which will cause him to more readily eat coarser food. The chance of a complete cure is not encouraging in a confirmed or chronic case, but the regular use of the following pills will have a won- derful effect in counteracting severe paroxysms: Powdered ipecacuanha 6 grains Powdered opium 6 grains Compound squill pill 24 grains Powdered gum ammoniacum 24 grains Powdered licorice 24 grains Powdered rhubarb 12 grains Mix and make into twenty-four pills. The dose for a 15-lb. to 40-lb. dog, one pill morning and night. Small- er than 15-lbs. half a pill. Whenever, severe fits of coughing with difficulty of breathing occur, if the antispasmodic drops mentioned in first article are not handy, chloro- dine may be given in the same way as the drops, the dose being from twenty to thirty drops. Much relief can be given to asthmatical dogs by confining them in a close box or kennel and filling it with the smoke of thorn apple. This may be done twice a day, but care should be taken with such patients that they are not exposed to any sudden change of tem- perature, whether from heat or cold, or the reverse. Or, in place of this during acute attacks when the breathing is very labored, relief may be obtained by inhalations of the fumes of burning tar, resin or creosote. An asthmatic form of breathing is frequently found in connection with tumors involving the respiratory tract. Such cases are incurable and it is the most merciful procedure to put the animal to a painless death. Harry W. Lacy has the following to say as to asthma, and I append it also for the benfit it may do: 14 DISEASES "Asthma is a very common ailment among sporting dogs, and is brought on by repeated exposure, followed by" inattention. If the simple duty of making a dog comfortable be attended to at the close of each day's work, there need be little fear of anything like this ensuing. It is not actually the exposure to the weather that causes a dog to have lung trou- ble, because when a dog is out exposed he is constantly on the move, and the circulation keeps up, so that it is not possible for him to contract a chill; but the chill is contracted when the animal returns home and lies down in a wet condition. Then the blood ceases to circulate as rapidly as during exercise, and the animal becomes shivery and a cold develops. This repeated a few times more or less will end in a cough, and asthma will ensue. When once a dog has suffered from an attack of asthma there always remains with him a predisposition to a renewal of the trouble. It is a most distressing complaint, and in the case of an animal like the dog, which leads, or should lead an active outdoor life, it is almost impossible to effect a permanent cure. Asthma differs from bronchitis in several ways. It comes on in paroxysms, which gradually get worse and worse, until finally the animal is suffocated. The treatment usually adopted consists in placing the animal in a room or chamber where a kettle is constantly boiling, so that the atmosphere is kept continually moist — as moist warmth does as much good as anything to give relief in such cases. As regards medicine, some of the ordinary cough remedies may be tried, the best thing perhaps being mixtifre of oxymel or squill and glycerine, in equal parts, to which a large paregoric elixir is added. The dog should have this about three times a day." Another very good thing to do in connection with any treatment you use is, cut up an onion small and fine, anoint with a drop or two (no more or it will blister) of kerosene is excellent for asthma and bronchitis. This, then put into a cotton cloth and tied around the dog's neck will afford relief in breathing. The onion should be renewed by a fresh one. House dogs suffer greatly from over-indulgence, errors in diet and lack of exercise, which causes them to put on flesh rapidly. These conditions produce derangements of the heart, lungs and circulatory system that fre- quently result in a morbid condition of the system, known as asthma. In- flammation of the mucous membrane lining of the bronchial tubes also produces this disease, so that colds and inhalations of noxious gases and vapors are common causes. The disease is easily recognized and there is no danger of confounding it with other affections of the chest. It is not liable to prove fatal, but seriously affects a dog's usefulness and will unquestionably shorten the animal's life. Symptoms: The patient shows great distress and difficulty in breathing, particularly after slight exertion, and suffers more or less from suffocation. Respirations are not increased in number, but are labored and jerky and have a wheezy, croupy sound during expiration. There is generally a peculiar cough. The nostrils are dilated and the expression is anxious and pitiful. The coat of over-fed dogs suffering from asthma is rough and DISEASES 15 dirty and dry and harsh to the touch. The skin is often covered with a mangy-looking scurf. Treatment: A radical cure of this disease is seldom effected, but much can be done to improve the animal's condition. During an acute attack of the disease prompt relief will be afforded by giving an emetic of ten to twenty grains of sulphate of zinc, or thirty grains of ipecac. The bowels should be kept open with cascara sagrada or olive oil. Much relief can be afforded to dogs suffering from the spasmodic form of the disease by confining them in a small rocm and burning on a pan of coals one ounce of stramonium leaves and a drachm of nitrate of potassa. The following prescription can then be used with good results: Potassa, iodidi two drams, spirits ammonia arom. one ounce, tincture quassiae and aquae, of each, two ounces. Dose, one teaspoonful three times a day. Give the patient slow walking exercise, restrict the diet, prevent the accumulation of flesh as much as possible and aim to secure the best physi- cal condition possible. Apoplexy — See Fits. Abscess. — Pus or matter forming in or among the tissues is abscess. It may be due to a blow, an accident, or caused by locil or general in- flammation. A bitch may, after whelping, have one of the teats dammed up, which gives rise to lacol inflammation, which would end in abscess. There is unusual heat of the parts while the abscess is forming; a hard lump at first, but as the matter forms this becomes softer, and is movable under pressure of the hand. Should it form very slowly, hasten its forma- tion by hot fomentations, which must be used continually for some time, and afterwards cover the parts to prevent reaction from cold air. If you can keep a poultice on the part this is very useful. Get from your druggist a piece of spongia piline, satuate it with warm water and apply with the waterproof side out. When the under part of the abscess is soft and moves readily under pressure, it is ready for opening. To open it take the lancet between finger and thumb and plunge it well into the center, making a clean downward cut to insure good drainage; press out the matter, bathe with warm water and keep it clean, which, in most cases, will be kept so by the dog's tongue if on part of body where he can reach it. If not, then apply Peroxyde of Hydrogen three or four times a day. In cases where the abscess is deep-seated, the veterinary surgeon alone should use the knife. A light and nutritious diet should be given, and in many cases no medicine is required,, but a mild purge can be given when it is forming. Should dog be much reduced and his appetite impaired after an abscess a short treatment-of Sergeant's or Clayton's Condition Pills will do al ot of good. Abscesses forming :"n lung disease would discharge the matter through the nose, also be coughed up, while in the uterus it would be by the vagina. Other internal organs may be the seat of abscesses, but none of these cases can be treated by the amateur, but should be intrusted to the veterinary surgeon. 16 DISEASES PERI-RECTAL ABSCESS. In a large number of cases — in fact nearly every one — of distemper, rectal abscesses will be found. To those who do not clearly understand the best method of handling them, we make the" following suggestions: Take the dog carefully between the knees and bend the tail sharply upward. This will cause the rectum to project. With the thumb and finger press firmly upon the projection, as if to extract the milk from a cow's teat. Use considefable force. If there is an abscess, this will break it and press out the pus. Be careful that the pus does not fly into the eyes. Repeat this operation every day so long as there is pus. You will find this is a material aid in effecting a cure. Abortion. — Strictly speaking, abortion means the expulsion of the foetus before it is sufficiently matured for independent life, but applied to the lower animals it is generally used to mean premature parturition as well. Abortion is comparatively rare in dogs, but premature whelping, especially just a week or so before the pups are due, is by no means un- common. The causes of abortion and premature parturition are various. A low diet, causing extreme paverty when the system requires extra support for the growth of the unborn pups, and the secretion of milk for them afterwards, is likely to cause it; and, on the other hand, a plethoric state of the body from over-feeding and want of exercise is also a likely cause, and very severe exercise, jumping from a height or over fences, and, what is too common, blows or kicks on the abdomen. It may also be brought on by drinking foul water, eating putrid food or anything likely to cause inflammation of the bowels, violent diarrhea, and consequent straining. Young bitches bred from before the system is matured, and old worn-out ones, are most likely to abort. Preventive measures consist in general attention to health, both in regard to the food and water given and the sanitary condition of the kennel, and the permitting of regular, but not violent, exercise, and in selecting only for breeding purposes bitches that are matured and in vigorous health. When a bitch has had her pups before the full time she should not be again bred from until at least one period of oestrum has passed. Anaemia (Poverty of Blood) is shown by paleness of the mucous membranes, weak and slow pulse and heart-beat, lack of energy, depression and lassitude. As the disease progresses, the eye sinks, becoming dull, the gait is staggering, the breathing becomes labored and wheezy, and the dog gradually sinks. The causes are poor food, exhaustive demands on stud dogs, excessive secretion of milk, and allowing bitches to suckle puppies too long. Anaemia may also be the result of some other disease impoverishing the system, and it is not infrequently a consequence of the dog harboring worms. Give in small quantities and frequently the most nourishing foods — milk, flesh, broths, etc. — pepsin porci to assist digestion, and wine of iron or syrup of phosphates as a tonic. Sergeant's Clayton's, or Eberhart's condition pills are a good tonic. At the same time see that the dog is warmly housed and that he gets plenty of sunlight and fresh air. DISEASES 17 Asphyxia. — Inability to breathe as the result of nearly drowning. In treating never attempt to make dog swallow while in an unconscious state; inject stimulants under the skin, such as from ten 'to twenty drops of brandy. Dash hot and cold water over the head alternately and make the attempt of artificial respiration as follows, when due to partial drowning: Hold the dog up with his head downward for a minute, so as to allow the water to run out of his lungs, then place the dog on his back, draw the tongue out, and with the hand placed on the lower part of the chest where the latter meets the abdomen, press downwards and forwards with some little force, then suddenly raise the hand to allow the chest to expand. This should be repeated every three or four seconds. Bladder, Inflammation of the. — The symptoms are great pain on pres- sure over the region of the bladder; the urine passed is scant in quantity but at frequent intervals, and evidently with great pain. It frequently comes from a blow but is also produced by long exposure to cold or wet, and often the result of giving too much cantharides and turpentine. Sometimes due to stricture of the urethra (urinary passage) or calculi (stone). The treatment consists of first giving a brisk purgative, and should this not act it should be assisted by clysters of luke-warm water or thin gruel, or a hot bath. The acute symptoms having passed, give 3 gr. to 5 gr. of benzoic acid in pill form three times a day. If the urine is not freely passed the catheter should be used in the manner detailed under heading of Paralysis of the Bladder. When the bowels have been opened, give a dose every six hours of the following "fever mixture." Powdered nitre 1 dram Sweet spirit of nitre 1 ' 2 ounce Mindererus spirit 1 " 2 ounce Wine of antimony 1 dram Tincture of digitalis y 2 dram Water 4 ounces Mix. Dose for a dog, 25-lb. to 30-lb. weight, one tablespoonful every four hours in a little gruel. Smaller dogs not quite so much. From 50-lbs. up a tablespoonful and a half as a dose. • The patient will experience relief of the parts are bathed continuously with a warm infusion of poppy-heads, or warm water alone, care being taken that he is not afterward exposed to cold. The clog's diet should be light and nourishing. Bladder, Paralysis of This affection is shown by the constant efforts of the dog to urinate and inability to do so, the water coming away in dribbles. It may arise from stone in the bladder. A common cause is over- distension of the bladder caused by keeping dogs where they will not urinate. Some dogs will not do so when shut up in a room, or when on the chain; hence the necessity, too often neglected, of taking dogs off the benches at exhibitions at regular intervals. This compulsory retention of urine produces spasm of the neck of the bladder, and paralysis — loss of the 18 DISEASES necessary muscular power — follows. It may also be the result of injury to the spine, or of debilitating disease. The effect of continued hot fomen- tations should be tried, and if these -fail, the urine should be drawn off by means of a catheter. Passing a catheter is a very simple matter. The dog should be placed upon his back, and the prepuce pressed back, so as to bring the penis into view; the catketer should then be dressed with a little olive oil or vaseline and passed gently into the opening at the point of the penis. This will introduce it into the bladder, when the piece of wire with which the instrument is provided should be withdrawn. Should the urine not flow freely, the dog can be stood upon its legs, keeping the catheter in position. If a catheter is not at hand, pressure with both hands through the abdominal walls in the region of the bladder, will empty it of its con- tents. If paralysis of the hind legs is present, an assistant should raise the body from the ground, by means of the tail, whilst the operator is press- ing the sides. During convalescence give barley-water to drink, and soft nourishing food — porridge and milk, broth and bread, etc. The following on this subject, is valuable: This disease occurs some- times from keeping dogs of very clean habits shut up, with no opportunity to relieve themselves. The bladder becomes overdistended, paralyzing the parts. It may also be the result of a general paralysis following an injury to the spine, the brain or some part of the nervous system. The dog at first is unable to pass water and later it dribbles from him. The first thing to do is to relieve the bladder. If there is no mechanical obstruction this can be done by pressure over the walls of the abdomen. If this fails, a catheter must be passed; in fact, it is the safest thing to do, for when an attempt is made to empty he bladder by applying force from the outsir.e there is danger of rupturing the parts. The catheter for a small dog should be No. 00, for terriers No. 1, for setters and pointers No. 2. In the event of a small gravel lodging in the passage, it is usually removed by carefully passing a small grooved silver probe. To tone up the bladder, nux vomica is the mast useful drug. The dose is from one to seven drops of the tincture three times a day in a teaspoonful of water given "after feed- ing. Bleeding From the Stomach The vomiting of blood is not of ordinary occurrence and may be the result of many causes. If due to a recent. in- jury or breaking down of the tissues, it will be bright red in color, if the blood is coming from the vens it will be of darker hue, and if it has re- mained in the stomach some time it will be of coffee color. In treating give the stomach at least twenty-four hours' rest or feed only milk and water, and every three hours give from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of the following: Tincture thalaspi twenty-four drops, liquor bismuth one-half ounce. Water to make three ounces. BOILS. These are similar to the boils in human beings and are due to the same causes, that is, they indicate either a poverty of the system and a gen- eral weakness, or they may be the result of plethora and too much blood. DISEASES 19 They also follow diseases like distemper and are not uncommonly induced by worms. Boils are very painful and make the dog cross. They appear, usually, where the skin is thinnest. Their first appearance is in the form of small red swellings, which enlarge, become hot and painful and even- tually break and discharge their contents. They usually appear on the inside of the thighs and bellies of young puppies when suffering with dis- temper or worms. If accompanying distemper they should not be treated, but at other times the proper thing to do is to reform the diet, give more green food, bathe oftener, exercise more and when the boils are soft and ripe open them with a sharp knife and dress with an antiseptic solution. Blood, Poverty of the. — See Anaemia. Bites. — A great injustice is done to a great many dogs by the old say- ing that "dogs delight to bark and bite," for there are very many that do not delight in either, but are to the contrary, properly behaved dogs in this respect. Some clogs do, however, but generally in self defense, or at sup- posed call of duty. Should your dog get bitten, wash the wound with tepid water, press out any blood, and pour a little of friar's balsam, or compound tincture of myrh on it. Since the above was written, I was bitten on the left hand in fourteen places, by a Bulldog I was showing in the ring, at the 1916 dog show at Louisville, Ky., State Fair, really the worst chewing up I ever got. Was taken to the hospital near the dog show. The doctor washed the hand, then dressed it with tincture of Iodine, and then applied a healing salve called "Unguentine," (to be had at any drug store), repeating this daily while show lasted, and I done the same for a week after home. The hand wrapped with cotton and bandage, and the result was my hand got entirely well. I will just mention, however, that the poor dog, after home, as at the show, where for some cause he suddenly went off his base, continued here to be crazy, did not try again to bite me (we were friends), but did bite every dog he got at here, and suddenly died three days later, being buried by me in my back yard, under an apple tree — and I miss poor "Wrinks." I find that many doctors now use tincture of Iodine, the first thing, on a bite or wound, in place of cauterizing, and I strongly advise doing so, and then the salve. The first thing to do if you are bitten, is to suck the bite, if on any part of your body you can get at with your mouth, and spit this out, which abstracts any poison — if any poison, from the bite. Don't be afraid of a dog's bite, don't get scared, the only danger is, a small percentage of blood poison setting in, but if your own blood is in good condition there is no danger. "Wrinks" case, with almost every veterinarian, would have been a sure case of rabies, but as I don't believe in this, I am yet here writing this article. Instead of cauterizing a bite, which always makes a nasty looking wound, I much prefer to use the tincture of Iodine (using a small brush), or if this is not on hand, then apply Peroxyde of Hydrogen, which will do all the cauterizing will do. Should your dog be bitten by a strange dog and any suspicion exists of so-called rabies in the strange dog, immediately use the tincture of Iron, 20 DISEASES or Peroxyde of Hydrogen, and isolate the dog until the time has passed for any fear of hydrophobia developing. This advice is given to those who believe in the so-termed hydrophobia, and you are referred now to Rabies, where I give fully my own belief on this subject, as well as the ideas of others. In case there is a tear, it may be necessary to bandage or draw together with a few stitches of silk thread. Bowels, Inflammation of (Enteritis; Peritonitis). — This is so ably treated by Dalziel, and by experience I know it to be good, that I here re- produce his article in full. The best plan, however, is to at once send for a veterinarian, providing you have one who understands or has made a specialty of treating dogs — anyhow, get the best one in your locality and don't stop to think of what it will cost, for you owe it to your dog to help him out of his trouble if such a thing is possible: "The severity and very dangerous charcter of this disease in the dog is such that perhaps the very best advice that can be given to the amateur who finds his valuable dog attacked by it is, send for a qualified veterinary surgeon without delay. The owner may, however, he possessed of sufficient self-confidence as to wish to try his own skill in treating the disease, or the animal may not be considered of sufficient value to incure the expense of employing a professional man, although there may be every desire to save the animal's life; and if I can help in any such commendable endeavor without encouraging useless and ignorant experiments at the cost of torture to the dog, I shall feel that I have been of some little service. Whatever course is determined on, whether home treatment or the calling in of pro- fessional aid, the decision should not be taken till the symptoms have been carefully and minutely observed, and the greatest attention must be paid to them, else there is every fear of the amateur confounding it with and treating it as colic, a disease which, although strongly resembling inflamma- tion in some of its symptoms, differs widely in others, and requires totally different treatment. Colic, if neglected or if wrongly treated, may, and frequently does, end in inflammation, but it is in itself a distinct ailment, and the same remark equally applies to constipation or obstruction of the bowels. As inflammation of the bowels or enteritis is one of the most fatal diseases to which the dog is liable — frequently carrying him off very quick- ly — no half measures will do for it; but, having ascertained clearly from the prevailing symptoms that the disease is actually present, remedial meas- ures must be adopted with promptitude and energy. The main causes of the disease are irregular or improper diet, or it may be irritation caused by the dog having swallowed some hard indegestible substance; exposure to cold and wet may produce it, and it is sometimes the result of ill-usage, such as a kick. "Inflamation of the bowels may be distinguished from colic in being more gradual in its approach, and is always ushered in by general feverish- ness; the nose is hot and dry, the eyes red and inflamed, and the whole countenance is expressive of great anxiety; shivering fits occur, the belly is hard and distended, and in the surface hot to the touch; the urine is gener- ally scanty and high colored. As in colic, when standing, the back is arched, the feet are drawn in toward each other, and the tail is tightly tucked be- DISEASES 21 tween the legs, or the clog may steal into a quiet corner, stretch his legs out before and behind, and crouch with his belly on the ground, probably finding temporary relief by bringing it in contact with the cold floor or ground; the dOg may, at the same time, be observed to frequently turn an anxious face toward his flanks. "Another safe and pretty certain way of distinguishing between enteri- tis and simple obstruction or colic is by pressing the hand along the belly; in the latter disease, especially colic, the rubbing gives relief, whereas in inflammation it evidently causes acute pain; the cry of pain given by the dog in this disease is shorter and sharper than the rather prolonged howl in colic, but to distinguish by this symptom would require finer discrimi- nation than can be reasonably expected from the comparatively inexper- ienced, for whom I presume to write. I may here mention the fact that enteritis is very commonly a complication of that 'scorge of the kennel/ distemper, and this fact alone sufficiently shows the folly of trusting to- any single medicine, pill, powder, potion, or any so-called specific whatever for the cure of that disease. The treatment proper in the disease under' consideration consists in getting the bowels relieved as speedily as possi- ble by the mildest means that can be used, constipation being generally present; for this purpose the use of clysters every fifteen minutes, as recom- mended in obstruction of the bowels, should be resorted to, and the in- jections must be used gently and with as little fuss and annoyance to the patient as possible. When the clysters begin to take effect, the evacuation of the bowels should be assisted by a dose of castor oil. From six to twelve leeches, according to the size and strength of the dog, should be applied to the belly, and after they have filled themselves the bleeding from the bites may be encouraged by bathing the whole surrounding parts freely and continuously with warm water. Many of- the best writers on dogs recommend giving calomel and opium combined, and it may appear- presumptuous in me to offer a contrary opinion, but experientia docet. I have given calomel to dogs in this disease and many others, but I do not think I ever once gave it without making the patient worse; so I have long discarded it, in the firm belief that it is not a medicine at all suited to the dog, and I am quite certain from my own experience, and feel sure the best veterinarians will bear me out, that the abusive use of calomel and other forms of mercury, given too often in immense and poisonous doses to the dog, by country- farriers and others ignorant of its properties, and who work by the rule of thumb, is not infrequently the cause of inflammation of the bowels. Instead of calomel, I have in several cases used the following with excellent effect: Take true James' Powder 3 grains Powdered Opium 14 grain In one ppwder. Give every two hours till three are given; large- sized dogs require double that dose. "If happily the dog gets over the attack, with signs of returning health great weakness will be evident, and this must be met by good nursing and a generous, but easily assimilated, diet. Beef tea, thickened, with bread, 22 DISEASES rice, etc., will answer well. The diet must be so varied as to keep the bowels open without the use of medicine." When well on the road to health great progress will be accelerated by giving Eberhart's Tonic Pills for twenty to thirty days. They contain no "dope," (unlike many others), make the dog eat, and get him back to health, flesh, and spirits. To allay the pain, give 5 gr. to 10 gr. of chloral, with 5 to 30 drops of tincture of opium; also apply hot flannels to the abdomen. The following treatise on this trouble was written especially for this book by Dent, and I consider it, also, very valuable: "An affection of the small intestines. This disease is of the most dangerous character and unfortunately prevalent. It will carry off a dog in a few hours, and in its treatment there is always danger of its being confounded with common colic, which is, as a rule, not fatal. The diseases can be distinguished from each other as follows: Colic comes on quickly and is relieved by rubbing the stomach — the pain is more intense and spasmodic. Enteritis comes on more slowly with greater general depression, the pain is continuous and is increased by rubbing the stomach. Causes. — The common cause of inflammation of the small intestines is the feeding of an improper diet, the indigestible substances setting up an irritation that inflames the delicate lining of the bowels. Cold, ex- posure, wet, blows, kicks, or anything that will injure the small intestines. The parts affected in this disease are also causes. This disease is also a common complication of distemper. Symptoms. — This disease is always ushered in by feverishness, the eyes are red and swollen, nose hot and dry, mouth sticky, the belly is hard, tense and hot to the touch, the patient has frequent shivering fits, and the countenance is most expressive of pain and anxiety. The animal will steal away into some corner and stretch itself out on the floor so as to bring the belly next to the cool floor or ground, and in this way may be relieved, turning his head every few moments and look at its flanks. When stand- ing the tail is tucked between its legs, all four feet are drawn in toward each other, and the back is arched. Treatment. — Warm comfortable quarters are of the first importance, and a thick woolen jacket carefully padded and adjusted over the belly, chest and flanks will protect the parts and give relief. In all stages of the disease it is of the utmost importance that the bowels be relieved of their irritating contents. Give injections of lukewarm water and castile soap — or thin oatmeal water containing one ounce of glycerine — until the lower bowels are emp- tied. Then give a dose of olive oil and castor oil, in equal parts, to which can be added from 10 to 20 drops of laudanum for each ounce of the oils, so as to relieve the pain. One ounce of this combination of oils can be given as a dose to a 40-lb. dog. Smaller dogs less in proportion to size. DISEASES 23 "After the bowels have been opened to further allay the pain give to a 40-lb. dog from 5 to 10 grains of chloral with from 5 to 30 drops of the tincture of opium, as often as necessary. The diet and feeding must be carefully looked to. The food must be soft, semi-liquid, bland and unir- ritating, fed only a small quantity at a time, and three grains of pepsin given after each meal. "Drink must be allowed only in very small quantities. Milk with the addition of lime water is excellent. If there is a tendency to vomit give the subnitrate of bismuth in 5 to 10 grain doses, three times a day. When the dog begins to recover from the disease the proportion of solid food can be increased, and a good tonic condition pill will facilitate convales- cence and build up the patient." Eberhart's tonic pills, or Clayton's, or Sergeant's condition pills, would new be of great benefit, used for a few weeks. Back Stiffness Usually the result of old age, chronic rheumatism or lumbago, but sometimes the result of sprains, a blow or other injury, such as bt ing run over across the back. The patient in most cases walks with difficulty or may start out all right and in the best of spirits, but before going far begins to lag, loses its spirits and drops its tail. In most cases there is pain evidenced upon pressure being applied to the back. In other cases the patent can walk very well, but is unable to jump. Treat- ment consists of absolute rest and the use of a good liniment, the follow- ing being recommended: Tincture of hyoscyamus one-half ounce, chloroform one-half ounce, spirits of camphor one ounce, soap liniment one ounce. The parts should be massaged and this liniment applied with gentle friction twice a day. It is also advisable to give a dose of aperient medicine and tu feed on a light diet. Bad Breath.- — This disgusting condition is due to a variety of causes, chief among them being a disordered stomach, the result of worms or in- digestion, and a diseased condition of the teeth, which is more or less dependent upon the condition of the stomach. Diseases of the lungs, as well as a catarrhal condition of the nasal passages, also affect the breath. Remove the cause; that is, if the stomach is out of order treat for worms and use a good condition pill until the digestive processes are normal. If the teeth are covered with tartar remove it by scaling with a small scraper, such as dentists use, and then clean with an ordinary tooth brush and dental powder. If the breath remains bad after the teeth have been cleaned and the stomach toned up, give twice a day for a week two to ten grains of salol. If there is a catarrhal discharge from the nostrils add a teaspoon- ful of salt to a ten-ounce bottle of water and syringe out the nostrils twice a day with the solution. Balanatis. — This disease is not of common occurrence and consists of a purulent discharge from the prepuce. In treating, the general health should be given attention and the diet carefully regulated. Cleanliness of surroundings is also important. Feed good dog cakes, with milk, and little or no meat. Internally give Fowler's solution of arsenic in doses of from 24 DISEASES two to fifteen drops three times a day after feeding. Cleanse the parts with tepid water, which should he injected into the prepuce with a syringe, and then syringe out the prepuce with a solution of nitrate of silver one grain to the ounce of water, or use a saturated solution of boracic acid. In some severe cases the base of the penis is diseased, and it should be exposed and painted with a four per cent solution of nitrate of silver twice a week. Bruises Where there is much swelling, bathe with warm water for an hour, dry well and rub in the following: Liniment for Sprains, Bruises, Etc. — Take equal parts of spirits of turpentine, liquid ammonia (not the strongest), laudanum and rape oil. Mix to iorm liniment. If skin is broken, touch the wound with tincture of ben- zoin and rub the liniment all around, but not into the broken skin. Burns and Scalds. — Mix equal parts of linseed oil and lime water and apply freely as soon as possible after the accident. A severe burn or scald is sure to be a blemish for life, and if severe often gives a violent shock to the system, and symptoms of illness arising from it should be observed and treated according to circumstances. Apply the above oil direct to the wound alone, and at once cover thickly with cotton wool to exclude the air from the bladders formed. On removing the dressing prick the bladders with a needle, smooth them down gently, re-apply the dressing, taking care that no hairs are left on the sore places. Burns. — May be due to contact with fire, but more frequently it is boiling water that has caused the injury. In some cases the skin is scorched and the hair frizzled, but the hair roots are not destroyed and a new growth soon reappears. In other cases the tissues of the skin are destroyed, the hair roots killed and a large blister forms, which, usually, goes through a stage of suppuration and then heals, leaving a smooth, white, glistening scar on which the hair never grows. If the skin is only scorched apply three or four times a day the common lime water and linseed oil lotion, composed of one part of lime water to two parts of linseed oil. This relieves the pain, protects the parts from the air and in a few days the patient is all right. In those cases where the skin has been burned deeply the parts should be coated with boracic ointment. After the blister breaks there is nothing better than boracic ointment to apply to the raw surfaces. It should be laid on thickly and protected by lint or absorbent cotton, kept in place by a bandage. The dressing should be repeated three times a day. Baldness — Smooth-coated toy dogs are often seen with hardly any coat. Black and tan toy terriers especially, due to in-and-in breeding. It can also be the result of. deficient nutritive functions and debility. Rub the bare places with an ointment made of — Tincture Cantharides 2 drams Vaseline . . : 3 ounces Quinine 2 y 2 grains DISEASES 25 This is a good hair grower, but here is where Eberhart's Skin Remedy will surely do the work; never failing as a hair grower. Clayton's will do the same thing. "Blain — Is a name given to a vesicular swelling of the tongue along the sides and underneath. It comes on suddenly, is most frequent in spring and summer, and appears to be epidemic, many cases occurring in the same neighborhood at the same time; it has not been shown to be contagious, and, although it is not a fatal disease, it is a very troublesome one. "The symptoms appear without warning and apparently without cause. The first thing generally observed is a considerable increase in the flow of saliva, which dribbles from the mouth. The breath is foetid, and on examination the tongue will be found considerably swollen, while if the disease has lasted any time there will be observed large livid vesicles, which rupture, leaving ulcers; these ultimately assume a gangrenous form and discharge foetid matter tinged with blood." The above description of Blain (malignant sore mouth) I quote from Dalziel. I have never had a case of this trouble, which is not often found in dogs. The following was written on' this trouble by Dr. C. L. Thulichum for Forest and Stream, and it is through their courtesy that I publish it: "Causes of this trouble are conjectural, the disease is most prevalent in the spring and summer, and more frequently found in the southern than in the northern latitudes. I do not -know of any authority who assigns any particular cause for this trouble, and although I can not say with any certainty myself, I have, however, noted the following conditions, and they may be supposable causes, but I do not wish to go on record as asserting that they are the actual causes, as they are simply deductions of my own. "I was located in the South in practice some years ago, when I first saw a case of this trouble in the dog. At that time I had on my hands several cases of anthrax or Texas fever in cattle. I noted that whenever I found a case of this trouble in the dog I could also by inquiry find that in the neighborhood some one had not long before lost a cow from the cow disease, as they called it. As the dogs were allowed, in that section, to run at large, and as a dog is, when at large, more or less of a scavenger, I concluded that either the dog affected had found the carcass of the cow that had died and been buried and dug himself up a meal from her, or that following that very desirable habit that most dogs are possessed of, rolling in carrion, he had taken a roll in this filth, and then in licking him- self afterward, had thus infected his mouth with the disease. This as- sumption may be entirely wrong, but I give it for what it is worth and it is the most common sense cause that I can give for the disease in the section in which I met it. The English authorities do not assign any cause, simply saying that the attack often begins without any apparent or previous illness, which is so; the attack is apparently sudden, your dog seems well today and ^ tomorrow has a very sore mouth. "Symptoms. — Dog may be a little listless for a day or two, which may not be noticed. Next and noticeable symptom is that he wants to drink a 26 DISEASES great deal of water and drools saliva from the corners of the mouth; tongue is enlarged and thickened. You look into the mouth and find it covered on its sides and under surface with large vesicles of a red or livid color, which may end in irregular and even gangrenous ulcers; the breath is extremely offensive and discharge of salvia very great; dog will not eat and apparently can not swallow, but this is a mistake — he can, but won't, owing to the great soreness of the mouth. If the disease is not checked now it passes on to the bowels and the dog dies with severe bloody dis- charges. Treatment. — There is only one that I have ever found necessary, and if you get at the dog promptly before the bowel trouble commences I believe you will affect a cure in every case; at least I have. "G-et an ounce of the tincture of sanquinaria canadensis at your drug- gist's and a camel's hair throat pencil or swab on wire. Paint the inside of the mouth and tongue where affected with this, morning and night, and give a tablet of bichloride of mercury, one-hundredth of a grain, three times a day internally. Feed nothing but milk for several days after cure is effected. Buttermilk is one of the finest adjuncts to a cure. You watch the dog closely and don't give him too much water, not until he suffers from the lack of it, but so that he will be thirsty enough to drink the buttermilk when you hand it to him. Have it as cold as possible and give him a soup plate full three times a day; one day sweet milk, the next but- termilk. After he is well, feed him for some time boiled rice and milk and buttermilk and bring him gradually on to his regular feed. The above treatment I have found to put the mouth in such shape that the dog will take nourishment after the first twenty-four hours, and after that he will steadily improve, and four or five days sees the mouth entirely healed except that it is still tender to solid food. To a dog the size of a setter or hound you can give as high as a fiftieth of a grain at a dose of the bichloride of mercury; to pups and smaller breeds one-hun- dredth of a grain is enough, and in fact I confine myself to this dose with all. sized dogs under St. Bernards or mastiffs, as it is quite as effective in the smaller dose as in the larger." Brain, Inflammation of the (Meningitis). — The meingess, the mem- branes enveloping the brain, are liable to inflammation. Symptoms are great drowsiness, with sudden spasmodic movements of the muscles of the head and chest during sleep. The disease is often produced by fits. In this and other brain troubles there is a disposition to walk in circles, always to one side, and the sight is so affected that the dog runs against obstacles. Treatment by the amateur is of no avail; call in a good veterinarian or your family doctor. Blisters — See general remarks under heading of Medical Terms. Boils. — This term, being in common use, is well understood. Boils are not very common on the dog; when they appear a poultice of some kind should, if practicable, be kept constantly applied, in order to bring the boil quickly to a head, when it should be opened with a lancet, the DISEASES 2 7 matter well squeezed out of it, the part well washed with tepid water, and then dressed with the following ointment: Turner's Cerate (Ceratum cala- mine), 1 oz.; precipitated chalk and glycerine, and carbolic acid, each 2 dr.; mixed. If bicarbonate of soda — dose, ten grains for a 30 lb. dog — be given three times a day it will check the tendency to form boils. Smaller toy dogs use five-grain doses, large breeds fifteen-grain doses. Blotch. — When dogs are affected with blotch, (Acute Eczema), in- flamed patches are observed on various parts of the body; these discharge thin mattery fluid, which forms a scab, matting the hair together, which in a few days falls off, leaving bare patches moist from the exuded fluid. These will appear in a night, and need cause no alarm whatever. Use for a few days, 'till the spots are dried up, a powder of equal parts of Boric Acid, bismuth sub nit, and oxide of zinc. Dust this well in on the in- flamed patches twice a day. After dried up then use Eberhart's skin remedy twice a day, and it will bring the hair back in due time. Here is a good lotion that you can have made if you haven't my skin remedy on hand: Lotion for Blotch. — Take carbolic acid and glycerine (British Phar- macopoeia), 1 oz.; laudanum, 2 oz.; water, iy 2 pts.; carbonate of potash, 2 drs. It should be applied over the whole surface of the skin affected twice a day. A bath or two, except in cold weather, will facilitate a cure, using Eberhart's, or some good dog soap, warm water to which add a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and the dog afterwards very carefully dried. Of course, the kennel must be examined, any defective sanitary arrange- ments altered, and thorough cleanliness insisted on. The dog's bedding should be changed at least every other day, and the proper use of dis- infectants in and about the kennel are of great use. Breeding, To Prevent. — To prevent a bitch from breeding after she has gone astray, accidentally been bred, wash out the womb with a strong solution of alum and water, using the ordinary syringe with the female point adjusted. The sooner this is done after the act of coition the better. It will often prove successful, especially if the bitch is in the early stages of oestrum. A fairly strong solution of Condy's Fluid, with 5 gr. of sul- phate of zinc to each ounce, has also been successfully employed. Another, and very sure thing I have found is, as soon as they are loose, have syringe ready, filled with pure cider vinegar, say half a tea- cup, hold bitch's hind parts up and inject this in the vagina. The super- matazoa can not live in any acid solution. The injection should be quickly done, after they are apart. Bronchocele. — This is an enlargement of the thyroid glands, the prin- cipal cartilage of the larynx. See Goitre. Bronchitis. — This is an inflammation of the bronchial tubes or wind pipes that convey the air to the lungs, the upper portion called the larynx. It is caused by exposure to damp and cold, neglecting a common cold, of 28 DISEASES being kenneled where foul emanations are breathed. Excessive barking, as dogs often do at their first bench show, will cause a slight inflammation of the larynx. When the larger air pipes are only affected, the cough is a short, dry, intermittent one at first, but in a few days it becomes more frequent and moist, mucus is discharged from the nose and coughed up as well. When the smaller brancnes are attacked the cough is more severe, there is a constant wheezing, and frothy matter tinged with blood is ex- pectorated; the breath is hot, mouth and nose dry and hot, the tongue is parched, the pulse is weak and considerably increased, eyes are red and inflamed, the discharge from the nose becoming thick and copious, and the dog suffers from violent sneezing. Treatment. — Put the dog in a room tolerably warm, one with a fire in it is best, where a tea-kettle is kept boiling, as the steam thus distributed throughout the room is very beneficial, but ventilation is also essential. A room with a fireplace in it would insure this. Give the dog one dose of from three to five grains of true James' Powder. As a mild laxative, give a dose of castor oil. For food, give broths or porridge, with -bits of boiled liver added. Where there is an accumulation of phlegm, and the animal endeavors to dislodge it, dive a dessertspoonful to a tablespoonful of ipecacuanha wine to act as an emetic. This will greatly relieve the patient. If the cough is troublesome, give from a dessertspoonful to a tablespoonful of the following twice a day: Liquor morphise mur 2 drams Spirit of ether sulp. co 2 drams Tincture of camphor co 3 drams Ipecacuanha wine 1 dram Water to make 3 ounces Or 3 gr. to 5 gr. of benzoic aid will relieve the cough. Apply hot linseed poultices to the chest and sides, and always place a coat upon the dog. A woolen cloth or blanket will do for this, covering his chest and around his body two-thirds towards rear, fastened with safety pins. The following medicine, in the form of a thin electuary, should then be administered to the patient every three hours: Electuary for Bronchitis and Sore Throat: Chlorate of potash 3 drams Wine of ipecacuanha 3 drams Tincture of opium 2 drams Powdered licorice root % ounce Powdered gum acacia % ounce Honey 1 ounce Vinegar of squills y 2 ounce Mix and give to small dogs, up to 2 5-lb. weight, half a teaspoonful every three hours, and to large dogs a teaspoonful as a dose. Shake bottle DISEASES 29 well before giving, as these ingredients have a tendency to separate. It should be placed well back on the tongue and should be swallowed gradually. Is is sometimes advisable to blister the throat and front of the chest, and in most cases a good rubbing with a strong stimulative liniment will be of service. Vinegar and mustard may be used, or the following mixed: Spirits of turpentine 1 y 2 ounce Oil of origanum 1 ounce Tincture of cantharides \' 2 ounce Spirit of hartshorn 1 ounce Rape oil 2 ounces Bronchitis often assumes a chronic form, especially in old dogs, when the cough is husky and constant, retching and discharge of phlegm, the breathing short and thick, and the dog is incapable of much exertion. Chronic cases are incurable, but alleviation can be given when it is unusually bad by giving a desertspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to size of dog, of equal parts of oxymel of squills and thick mucilage of acacia several times a day. Another veterinarian advises as follows: "This trouble is of frequent occurrence and is due to an inflammation of the air passage leading down into the body of the lung, and may be the result of a cold or chill or the breathing of smoke or novious vapors. The symptoms are more or less difficulty in breathing, severe and constant coughing and the accumulation of phlegm in the windpipe. In bad cases the patient will not lie down, but sits with the forelegs braced and the chest expanded. In treating place in a room comfortably warm without being overheated, and moisten the air by keeping a kettle going. If the throat is so full of phlegm that breathing is difficult give an emetic of the wine of ipecac in doses of a half to two teaspoonfuls, repeated in one hour, if necessary. After the stomach is erupted and the patient has quieted use the following mixture: Paragoric six drams, Hoffman's spirits two drams, ipecacuanha wine one dram, syrum of squills one ounce, water to make three ounces. The dose is a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful every four or six hours. Keep the bowels open by occasional doses of aperient medicine and repeat the emetic if the breathing has not improved in forty- eight hours, and after the acute stage of the disease has passed and the cough is better give cod liver oil emulsion. Feed on milk,, meat broths and soup during the early stages of the disease, and as the severe symptoms abate meat may be given. Bronchitis (Chronic Husk) This condition is the result of a more or less chronic thickening of the membranes lining the air passages, so that the dog is in apparent good health with the exception of a hard, dry, husky cough that is brought on by any excitement or exertion, and is usually worse in the morning and at night. These attacks of coughing end usually 30 DISEASES in a retching and gagging, as if vomiting or expelling a piece of phlegm from the throat. Give aperient medicine so as to keep the bowels open and use the following mixture: Tincture of nux vomica thirty drops, syrup of squills one ounce, water to make three ounces; dose from half a tea- spoonful to a tablespoonful three times a day after feeding, the first for a toy, the second for a St. Bernard or one of the larger breeds. If the cough is very severe give from fifteen drops to a teaspoonful of glyco- heroin in water. Feed underdone meat, raw eggs, gelatine or any easily digested food that will not distend the stomach unduly, as a distension of the stomach brings pressure on the chest and aggravates the condition." Bowels (Intussusception). — This trouble is of more frequent occur- rence in puppies than old dogs. It is the result of the bowel telescoping upon itself. By careful manipulation of the abdomen it can be located by a long, hard swelling. The patient suffers much pain and usually whines and cries pitifully. The other symptoms are diarrhea, with blood-tinged mucus, and in the early stages vomiting. Intussusception is due to a variety of causes, such as worms, indigestion and colic, or the eating of hard substances, but as indigestion, colic and the abnormal appetite that causes dogs to eat indigestible and irritating matter are more or less the result of the presence of worms, the latter must be accepted as the primary cause. The importance of treating for them frequently is therefore ap- parent. In treating mild cases that have not progressed far give from one to five drops of laudanum 'every three hours in a teaspoonful of milk. One drop is the correct dose for a puppy two to three months old of the toy breeds and five drops is the dose for the large breeds of the age men- tioned. Feed only liquid food — milk or beef tea. If there is not a decided improvement in the puppy's condition in twenty-four hours an operation should be resorted to. In the early stages it is nearly always successful and the puppy receives immediate relief. If it is postponed the operation is more difficult, on account of the inflammation, and the bowels cannot be so easily straightened. The patient should fast for twenty-four hours following the operation, after which for a few days administer only liquids. Breasts (Inflammation) . — This painful condition usually attacks bitches while nursing their puppies, the abscesses that are liable to form at other times being generally of slower growth and not accompanied by systemic disturbance. The milk gland in acute cases is swollen, hard and red and very painful, and the elevation of temperature indicates the formation of pus. After two or three days the swelling becomes softer, comes to a point, breaks and freely discharges. If the bitch is nursing it is necessary usually to remove the puppies and feed them by hand or turn them over to a foster-mother, the mother meanwhile being milked two or three times a day. The swellings should be poulticed with flaxseed until they are soft, and then lanced. As a rule they do not require any other treat- ment, for their dependent position insures free drainage. It is advisable to keep the patient's bowels open with a dose of aperient medicine. Biliousness. — Symptoms are vomiting in the morning of frothy yellow DISEASES 31 bile, usually after eating grass, an unusual thirst, sometimes a diarrhoea, refusal of food, and in some cases the eyes and mouth and skin take on a yellow cast. For treatment first give a dose of castor oil, so as to keep the bowels open and remove the excess of bile. If there is much nausea and sickness of the stomach give carbonate of bismuth. A dose of from two to twelve grains simply should be placed on the tongue and the mouth held for a moment until it is swallowed. If this does not give good results use the following prescription: Diluted hydrocyanic acid twenty drops, liquor bismuth one ounce, water to make six ounces. The dose is from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful every three hours. In most of these cases giving the stomach a complete rest will do more good than anything in the way of drugs. In some cases good results follow the use of small doses of quinine or the extract of taraxacum. Bed Sores Large, unhealthy-looking sores frequently form on the hips, points of the buttocks, shoulders and other parts of dogs which have suffered from severe illness. Success in treatment depends upon protect- ing the parts affected from further injury. First clean the parts with a warm, saturated solution of boracic acid, then dry carefully with soft linen rags and dust with powdered boracic acid and iodoform in equal parts; encircle the injured parts with a ring of felt, kept in position with adhesive tape. Bladder (irritable). — These cases as a rule require the attention of a veterinary, as the irritation may be set up by a variety of causes, not the least of which is a stone in the bladder. The common symptom of bladder trouble is constant straining, even when indoors; in other cases, not so bad, there is frequent micturition of high-colored, cloudy, strong- smelling urine. The presence of blood, as a rule, is an indication of calcu- lus, or stone. Sometimes the blood comes mixed with the urine, and in other cases it comes in drops after the passing of water. In those cases where the stone becomes fixed in the pasage, and the dog is incapable of micturition, no time should be lost in calling in a good veterinary sur- geon. If there is not much pain a course of treatment with the hyposul- phite of soda is all that is necessary, the dose being from three to twenty grains, diluted in water and administered three times a day before feeding. If there is much pain, give the tincture of hyoscyamus in dose of from two to fifteen drops in water every three hours. Feed on milk, barley wa- ter and dog cakes. Broken Bones. — It can be ascertained that a bone of the leg is broken by taking hold of the limb above the supposed fracture and moving the lower portion against it, when a grating or crackling of the broken ends against each other will be felt or heard. The treatment consists in ad- justing the fractured parts to their natural form, and applying splints to keep the parts set. Splints may be made of strips of gutta percha, softened in warm water and moulded to fit the limb, or pieces of thin wood may be cut the required size and well padded with wadding. The splints can be kept in place by binding evenly with light cotton bandages, which, pre- 32 DISEASES vious to application, have been smeared with the following preparation whilst warm: Take Venice turpentine, Burgundy pitch, equal parts; melt and smear over the bandage whilst hot. If much swelling occurs, it will be necessary to slacken the bandages, and, in most cases, it will be requisite to muzzle the dog to prevent him tearing off the splints. Perfect rest will be required, and the general health attended to. The time it will take for the bones to unite is uncertain, but always tedious. Unless you feel capable of handling the case properly yourself you had better call in a verterinarian or your family physician. Your druggist could do this in case neither the veterinarian or doctor could be had. Bowels, Obstruction of the (Constipation or Costiveness) Dogs kept in the house and not exercised sufficiently, or improperly fed, are particularly liable to constipation. Bones, while excellent and almost necessary to a dog's health, yet an excessive use of them is to be avoided, also any one kind of dry food, and no dog should be kept constantly on one kind of food, as want of exercise and the absence of necessary variety in the food are the principal causes of constipation. When looked upon as a disease itself, or as a symptom and attendant on other diseases, it is always troublesome and often becomes dangerous. The feces accumulate and get pressed into hardened lumps, the belly is distended and hard, the colic pains occur, driving the dog almost frantic and causing him to run about blindly, stumbling over different obstacles in this way, and to give utterance every now and the nto sharp howls of pain. All this pain and misery that the poor dog has to suffer in nearly every case, is the result of neglect of proper rules which every dog owner should, in common justice to the dog, be acquainted with and observe. But the evil does not end here, for it is the too common practice to rush into one of commission quite as great or greater — namely, the common practice in constipation of resorting to strong purgatives, such as epsom salts, jalop, calomel, etc., the consequence of giving which is to render the evil worse by forcing the feces into still less compass when it becomes more impacked and hardened than before. The proper course to follow is, when the dog is in great pain, administer a dose of the anti-spasmodic drops. Compound spirits of sulphuric ether and tincture of opium (laudanum) equal parts. Mix and keep in a well-stoppered bottle in a cool place. The dose for a 20-lb. to 30-lb. dog would be a small teaspoonful given in about two tablespoonfuls of milk, gruel or other liquid. Success in relieving the pa- tient is best obtained by mechanical means. Clysters of thin oatmeal gruel or soap and water, lukewarm, and containing about one ounce of castor oil in each half pint, must be used continuously for some time, in fact till the desired object has been attained. This end will be greatly facili- tated by first introducing the finger, oiled, into the rectum, and removing as much of the hard lumps of feces as can be reached. Assistance will also be given to the action of the clysters by gently pressing or kneading the belly at intervals with the hand. It is necessary that everything should be done with the greatest gentleness; boisterous conduct and rough hand- ling being likely to alarm the patient and cause him to do himself irre- DISEASES 33 parable injury- When the lower bowels have been emptied follow it up by giving the dog a strong dose of Podophyllin pills: Podolphylln 6 grains Compound extract of colocynth 30 grains Powdered rhubarb 48 grains Extract of henbane 36 grains Mix and divide into twenty-four pills. The dose is from one-half to two pills, according to age and size, and it is advisable to give the dog a little warm broth after the pill to assist in its action. The use of purgatives must not be resorted to, to prevent a recurrence of the disease. The system of management must be altered, the dog must have daily exercise, the food must be varied and embrace a portion of boiled green vegetables at least every second or third day. For a week or so after the attack rather sloppy food should be given, such as welf- boiled porridge and milk, or broth, and an occasional meal of boiled liver will act as a gentle laxative. Worms are another cause of obstruction in the intestines, especially in puppies; round worms get coiled into balls, set up local irritation and interfere with the natural action of the bowels. BLACK TONGUE. This is a new disease, confined so far, to dogs in the Southern states. Personally, I have never seen a case of it, and do not pretend to try to ad- vise as to treatment. The following was written by the late Polk Miller of Richmond, Va., (and a valued friend of mine he was), and I am giving his article and treatment, due to the great confidence I felt in him as a gentleman sportsman, and lover of dogs. BLACK TONGUE OR THE "NEW DISEASE." There is a new disease among the dogs in our Southern States, and in some of the Northern and Western States (though to a limited extent), which is giving great trouble and anxiety among dog-owners. I say new, because it has appeared in the last ten years. It is called "Black Tongue" by the majority of people, but as that does not appear in all cases, it is called the "New Disease." A dog which is perfectly well today may be extremely ill tomorrow, 'and if the disease is not arrested in twenty-four to thirty-six hours, it generally proves fatal. A close watch should be kept to see that it doesn't get too good a start. The symptoms, as nearly as I can describe them, are as follows: General languor, dullness about the eyes, little or no appetite, a dryness about the mouth and throat (some- times swelling), and high fever. In some cases the glands are excited and a profuse flow of saliva is noticed, but in most cases the tongue is dry, and the poor brute seems anxious, though unable, to swallow water, on account of inability to lap the liquid. These are some of the most noticeable symptoms, and the dog thus affected is indisposed to notice 34 DISEASES the call or caresses of his master, and manifests a disposition to roam about in a listles manner, preferring to be "severely left alone." What- ever may be the opinion of others as to a proper treatment, or a name for this disease, it is my belief, from personal experience with it, that it should be treated in the same manner as our old physicians treated diph- theria in human beings before the new remedy — anti-toxin — was discov- ered. I give that, and trust that the lives of many dogs that would other- wise die may be saved. I have never failed to cure a dog by the prompt use of this treatment at the very first appearance of the trouble, and I have never known one to get well when two days have elapsed before the rem- edy was applied: Chlorate of Potassium V 2 ounce Mur. Tine. Iron Vz ounce Water 1 pint Sig. — Mix, shake, and with a soft rag protruding over the end of a stick, dip into the solution and thoroughly mop out the mouth and throat twice daily, for two days. The following was written by someone south, who seemed to know from experience as to Black Tongue. The 3 grain dose given of thymol, was used on a Foxhound, probably a fifty pound dog, therefore exercise judg- ment, (as thymol is a dangerous drug), for smaller dogs: "As to black tongue, I use the thymol, as it is a better, antiseptic for the intestinal tract, and, in addition to this I use alternately a wash of permanganate of potash and a saturated watery solution of alum. I give the thymal rubbed up with pure Castile soap and put into capsules, giving one capsule containing three grains of thymol every four hours. I wash the mouth out before each capsule is given, alternating with the two solutions mentioned above. As the dog sick with black tongue will not eat, as a rule, I drench him with milk morning and night, sometimes adding a raw egg to the milk. I want to give just a few warnings to those unfamiliar with the use of thymol. Its use in the human being is attended with a certain amount of danger, and this is doubly so in the dog. It should never be given to a dog until the intestinal tract has been thoroughly cleaned out with salts. The dog should, then be starved for at least twelve hours before the thy- mol is administered, and this should be followed in six hours with another dose of salts. The dog should then be given nothing to eat for several hours more. Under no circumstances should the dog be allowed any fat for several hours after the last dose of salts and he should have nothing whatever to eat between the first and last dose of salts. Several fatal cases of poisoning are on record from the use of thymol in the treatment of hookworm in the human. Chenopodium, or the oil of wormseed, is a far safer drug to use. In addition to its being a safer drug, it has been proven that it effects cures of hookworm in the human where thymol has been given and has failed. In the Journal of the Amer- ican Medical Association of . November 28, 1914, Dr. Robert L. Levy of DISEASES 35 Johns Hopkins Hospital reports two cases of hookworm treated and cured with oil of wormseed where thymol had failed. He also gives the 'coeffi- cient of efficacy' in the same percentage as the article you have quoted. He gives the following mode of administration: First day— Liquid diet; 8 p. m. one ounce Epsom salts. Second day — Omit .breakfast and lunch; at 5 a. m. one ounce of Epsom salts; at 7, 9 and 11, sixteen drops of oil chenopodium on a little granulated sugar; 1 p. m. one ounce castor oil containing fifty minims of chloroform; soft supper (this for a dog would be a little baker's bread soaked in milk). Third day — Resume full diet." Another southern writer has this to say: "While it has not been definitely determined whether or not this dis- ease is due to hookworm infestment, indications suggest a very close relation, as postmortem examinations have shown hookworms and great intestinal inflammation. Ii is probable that the toxin which the hookworm injects into the dog's blood may cause the disease. It is not contagious, nor can it be communicated by feeding or drinking from the same vessel. An experiment was recently made by feeding parts of stomach and intestines of a dog which died of an acute case of black tongue to several healthy dogs, and no ill effects developed. Another fact that is quite apparent is that black tongue is never found except in sections of the country, which includes the entire South, where the hookworm is known to exist" As to the treatment for hookworms, see "Hookworms" in the regular worm article. Colic. — This subject is very completely covered by Dalziel. "Nearly all domestic animals are subject to attacks of colic, or pripes, as it is more frequently termed, especially when the horse is the subject of the disease. In the dog, puppies are especially liable to it, but it attacks dogs of all ages, and, if not promptly attended to and properly treated, is very liable to end in inflammation of the bowels — a most dangerous dis- ease, which, in some* of its features, though happily not its dangerous ones, colic resembles. One very important point of distinction is, that whereas inflammation comes on gradually, and feverishness, with hot, dry nose, etc., always exist as premonitory symptoms, colic comes on suddenly, and a dog eating well and seeming in perfect health is seized with spasm of the coat of the bowels, causing such pain that he gives voice to a low moan, which is afterward changed to a prolonged howl, as the paroxysms of pain increase in frequency and severity. In colic, too, the nose and mouth are cool, and there is no offensive breath. As in inflammation, the attitude is peculiar and unmistakable; the back ebing arched, the feet drawn in toward each other and the tail tightly tucked between his legs; in colic, the belly is sometimes distended considerably with gas, and is then known as flatulent colic. It is a disease of frequent occurrence in dogs, and the exciting causes are various; exposure to wet and cold; getting dogs, espe- cially house dogs, to swin in cold inclement weather, are common causes; the presence of worms in the intestines also produces colic. But the most common cause is undoubtedly the giving of improper food; sugar and 36 DISEASES other sweet things are likely to produce it; puppies just after weaning are very liable to it, especially if they have small lumps of meat or other solid food thrown to them, which they can not well chew, but greedily bolt; or having a portion of one meal left in the dish till the next meal is added is very likely to produce it, because the stale portion undergoes fermentation, that is, becames sour, and the fermentation is carried on in the stomach. Colic is sure to yield to prompt and proper measures, and the treatment is simple and safe. As soon as observed, give the sufferer a dose of "anti-spasmodic drops." Compound spirits of sulphuric ether (known as Hoffmans' anodyne), and tincture of opium (laudanum) equal parts. Mix, and keep in a well stoppered bottle in a cool place. Dose for 15-lb. to 35-lb. dog would be a small teaspoonful in two teaspoonfuls of milk or gruel. It must be given diluted with thin gruel, milk or water, and if immediate relief does not follow, administer a double quanitity, as a clyster in gruel, or the dose may be repeated in half an hour. In "flatulent colic," known by the distended belly sounding like a drum when tapped with the* end of the finger, from 10 to 30 drops of spirit of sal volatile may be advantageously added to dose of "anti-spasmodic drops," or the following draught may be given and repeated in an hour if the dog is not relieved: Carbonate of soda 20 grains Aromatic spirits of ammonia 30 drops Essence of ginger 5 drops Laudanum 15 drops Peppermint water 2 tablespoonfuls This is a dose for a medium-sized dog, such as a pointer or a greyhound. For puppies and smaller breeds use less of this as the dose. After the attack has subsided give the dog a gentle aperient, such as the "mild purge": Syrup of buckthorn 3 parts Syrup of white poppies 1 part Castor oil 2 parts Dose for dog 15-lb. to 30-lb., is a tablespoonful. Bottle must be well shaken before using. Larger dogs a little more. Keep on a laxative diet, and do not let the dog have violent exercise for a day or so. Endeavor to discover the cause of the attack and avoid a repetition. Lead poisoning produces a peculiar form of colic, and clogs should not have water to drink that has been collected in leaden cisterns. The using of one-eighth grain doses of morphine hypodermically every half hour or hour during the attack of colic will give relief very soon. Ooryza is the name given to a common cold when confined to the nose and eyes, and a running at the nose and watery eyes. I have found the following plan to quickly cure it. Take a large sponge, wring it out of warm water, sprinkle it freely with vinegar of squills, and hold it to the clogs nose so that he inhales the fumes. Or, half fill an upright jar or jug of suitable size with bran, saturate it with hot water, and sprinkle over and DISEASES 37 stir into the bran the following: A tablespoonful of ordinary vinegar, a teaspoonful of laudanum, and six drops of glycerine, and carbolic acid (British Pharmacopoeia). Mix, and hold the dog's nose over it. This quantity is a double handful of bran in a quart, or three-pint jar, is suitable for a 20 to 50 pound dog. A good idea, if eyes continue to run, would be to use the eye lotion of Hydrastes and Camphor water, which you will find given under Eye troubles. Claws, Inflammation at the Roots of; — Dogs used to the chase, or hunt- ing in scrubby heather, or running much over hard, uneven roads, suffer from s#re toes; the parts around the roots of the claws are swollen, in- flamed and tender, making the dog lame, and, indeed, almost unable to get about; there is redness between the toes, and sweating or thin serous discharge therefrom. Such cases are often very difficult to cure. First give a dose of aper- ient medicine, and keep the dog up, giving him plenty of soft bedding, and a light diet. Foment the part night and morning with warm water, and bathe freely with this lotion: Calomel, 2 scr. ; lime water, 12 oz. ; mix. Shake the bottle well when using it, which should be done four or five times a day. If the foregoing fail, try Goulard's Extract of Lead, 2 dr.; tincture of arnica, V2 oz.; distilled water, 1 pint; mix and apply freely four or five times a day. If the case is a very bad one, wrap the foot in a piece of lint saturated with the lotion, and pull over it a chamois leather boot, which the dog can be prevented from gnawing and pulling off by use of a muzzle, over the mouth-part of which a piece of canvas has been sewn. Concussion of the Brain. — Often occurs in canine practice, and is due to accidents. In most cases the dog becomes unconscious, and the breath- ing is heavy or usually nearly imperceptible. Gradually consciousness re- turns, but often a stiffness of the limbs and an uncertain gait remains for a time. The treatment should consist in the administration of stimu- lants, but great care must be taken not to attempt forcing liquid upon an unconscious animal, or choking will be the inevitable result. Brandy can be injected under the skin (subcutaneously). Ice when procurable should be applied to the head and spinal cord, and ammonia to the nostrils. If there is a fracture of the skull an operation will become necessary. A part of the bone may be pressing upon the brain, when it would have to be raised, and so relieve the pressure, in which case a vererinarian must be called at once. Constipation. — Watch your dog every day as to condition of his bowels. A dog properly fed and exercised will hardly ever be troubled with consti- pation. I turn my dogs out into their yard each morning and stay there a few minutes and watch them. Their first inclination is to hunt a place and empty themselves (a dog's natural habit). If I find one that is con- stipated, by this I mean unnaturally so, where passage is too hard and crumbles up into dust by putting your foot on it, I watch that dog that night, and if still the same it gets a dose of castor oil the next morning, unless as sometimes happens, the bowels have meanwhile corrected them- 38 DISEASES selves. No dog should go over twenty-four hours without a passage, and better if not so long. As to the size of the dose of castor oil this depends greatly on size and age of dog. Take a grown dog the size of a fox terrier or pug, by this is meant a dog over a year old, and you can give it a table- spoonful. If this don't work in an hour or so, repeat the dose once. A dog a year old or over, like an English setter, could stand two tablespoons- ful at a dose, while the larger breeds like a St. Bernard, could stand an ounce and a half, which would be three tablespoonsful, or even two ounces at a dose. Some dogs, like some persons, are harder to physic than others, so that judgment should be used; the idea being not to give too much, but just enough to accomplish the desired result. Fluid extract of cascara sagrada is a remedy much used for constipation, and to the dose of«castor oil from five to twenty drops of this can be added and given with it with benefit. Puppies from six months to a year old should be given smaller doses in proportion to age and breed of dog. Young puppies as a rule should have rather loose bowels than other- wise, and are rarely ever troubled with constipation. Watch your dog's bowels, which is easily done by spending a few min- utes each morning after it is let out in the yard. Often if only slightly bound up, or passage is a bit too hard, a little oatmeal (same as you cook it for yourself), or some cooked liver for its breakfast, or a good drink of buttermilk will loosen it up all right, in place of the oil. If passage is normal (shaped and not hard), do nothing at all. Every dog should empty itself at least twice a clay and puppies oftener. Some dogs are troubled with chronic constipation, and in such cases, use a laxative pill, several of which are made for dogs. I have found Clay- ton's very good. Cough. — Cough, strictly speaking, is a symptom of disease, rather than a disease itself, but it is in very many cases to non-professional observation the most distinct sign that something is wrong; indeed, so markedly is this the case that we speak of a person having a bad cough as the ailment from which he suffers, rather than the symptom of that ailment, and hence we have innumerable specific remedies as cough mixtures, cough pills, etc. Our dog we treat in the same way, taking the sign for the substance, the smoke for the fire, and fortunately without much practical harm, for gen- erally speaking, the medicine that will ease a cough is acting favorably on the disease of which the cough is an evidence. To decide what parti- cular disease is indicated by the cough, the concomitant symptoms and circumstances, as described under the special disease, which are usually preceded or accompanied by cough, must be taken into account, and the special treatment called for in each case followed. Coughs vary as much in character as do the diseases of which they are in many cases the most pronounced indication. Thus, in common cold the cough slight and humid; in bronchitis, hard, dry and frequent; and in inflammation of the lungs and pleurisy, short and suppressed, doubtless from the great pain caused by the effort. When the throat is sore, the cough is hoarse and generally ac- companied by more or less difficulty in swallowing; in asthma, the cough DISEASES 39 may be described as wheezy, and is often followed by vomiting. Cough in distemper has a peculiar husky, hollow sound. Cough may be pro- duced by a bit of bone or other substance sticking in the throat and causing irritation, in which case the cough is the natural effort to get relief, and ceases with the removal of the irritating cause. As a cough is almost in- variably connected with some derangement of the respiratory organs or air passages, its warning should never be neglected, and the early resort to the use of the following pills will be sure to relieve, will frequently cure, and can, under no circumstances, do any harm: COUGH PILL. Powdered ipecacuanha 6 grains Powdered opium 6 grains Compound squill pill 24 grains Powdered gum ammoniacum 2 4 grains Powdered licorice 24 grains Powdered rhubarb 12 grains Mix and make into twenty-four pills; dose for a 15-lb. to 40-lb. dog, one pill night and morning; under 15-lbs. half a pill, and for large breeds give 1 V 2 pills as a dose. Another very good cough mixture for many kinds of coughs is: Muriate of ammonia 2 drams Compond syrup morphia 2 ounces Aqua destil 2 ounces . Dose: From half to a teaspoonful every two hours according to size of dog. For puppies 10 to 15 drops as a dose. For a Bronchial Cough (Chronic). — The following is a very good one. A teaspoonful is the dose, as this cough is, of course, found in older dogs only, and will do for all breeds except very small toy dogs, when half a teapoonful will do: Spirit chloroform y 2 dram Wine of ipecac 3 drams Tincture of squills 5 drams Simple syrup 1 ounce Aqua to make 4 ounces There are a great many other good cough remedies, in fact anything good for the master's cough is good for the dog's, and I herewith give sev- eral prescriptions that I know to be good by having tried them. A dog that is well and in good condition may have a dry cough, does not cough very much at a time, but quite often. I have cured such cases with the following: 40 DISEASES Carbonate of aninioniacum 3 drams Fluid extract of belladonna 2 drams Gum camphor 5 drams Syrup of squills '. 5 drams Simple syrup 4 ounces Fluid extract of licorice 4 ounces Dose for a medium-sized dog, a teaspoonful every four hours. This is a very good cough syrup. Large dogs could have 1 y 2 teaspoonsf ul. A cough remedy advertised for humans, called "Pinex," I tried on dogs, and found it to be very good for many coughs. You can get a fifty cent bottle of Pinex of your druggist, and from this, prepare at home, a pint of cough syrup that would cost a couple dollars, by mixing the contents of the bottle in a syrup you can easily make from less than a pound of granulated sugar. The dose would be from half to a teaspoonful, every two to four hours. Dogs larger than fifty pounds, could stand a little larger dose. I have used this for the cough a dog has in distemper, and it did the dog's cough good, not conflicting with the other medicines being used. "Very lately the following prescription was prescribed for me by a regular doctor for a chronic, bronchial, dry cough, that one of my old dogs has every fall and winter, which nothing I had ever used would stop — this one did it — and I consider it a most valuable one. Syrup Oocillaiia, Compound (Parke Davis & Co.). — Dose would be a teaspoonful for dogs up to 50 pounds, and a little more for very large breeds, every two or three hours. A dose of any cough syrup should al- ways be given the last thing at night. Here is an "old fashioned cough syrup" for a "sore throat cough." Boil down some onions and brown sugar, and give teaspoonful every twd or three hours. Another very sensible article on coughs, (which I found some place), commends itself: "There are two kinds of coughs that a dog suffers from; one comes from the throat and the other from the stomach, and each requires dif- ferent treatment. There is about as much use in trying to cure a stomach cough with a bronchial remedy as there would be for you to take a laxa- tive for chilblains, and yet it is often done. The bronchial cold may be treated in the following manner: Put in a warm room and give either cod liver oil, syrup of white pine or some similar preparation. A good formula for coughs in dogs is syrup of squills, syrup of wild cherry, of each two parts; glycerine, one part. If the cough becomes so bad that there is a great deal of difficulty in breathing, an ordinary water kettle placed over a gas stove or some other hot fire, so that the escape of steam will be rapid, will be found to be a relief. Of course, a regular bronchitis kettle or one of the patent lamps that can be had for a small sum at any drug store, can also be used. In the stomachie cough it is always wise to give a purgative and to treat for worms, as internal parasites are in nine DISEASES 41 cases out of ten the primary cause of the trouble. Two or three days should then he allowed to elapse, and the treatment repeated. This may be done a third and even a fourth time, if the cough does not disappear. Do not physic every day or you will weaken the animal too much, but allow two or three days to pass." Cuts, Tears or Wounds. — The first thing to be done is to stop the bleeding, which can generally be done by simple pressure with the fingers, or by a few folds of lint pressed firmly against the cut. Unless a consid- erable artery has been severed, these means are generally successful, but if such is the case, a ligature will be the cure. After bleeding is partially or entirely stopped, remove all foreign bodies, such as glass, dirt, thorns or splinters, but avoid using very cold or hot water in doing so, having it about blood warm. If the cut or wound is superficial, the cleansing, pressing of the parts together and dressing it with friars balsam or tincture of myrrh, applied with a small brush or feather, will be all that is required, the using of these tinctures leaving on the wound a protective covering of gum. If the lips of the wound will not meet, draw them together with a few stitches, using a slightly curved suture needle and a silk thread which should be waxed with beeswax to prevent absorption and its acting as a seaton. Sewing up wounds is easy. Pass needle through the skin on one side of the wound from the outside inward and then through the part of the opposite lip from the inside outward, drawing the lips gentlv together, tie the thread in a double knot and cut ends off close. Do each stitch separately. If the cut is a long one, use a. pair of light cross-forceps to hold the lips together ahead of where you are sewing, as a neater job can be made in so doing. The stitches should be about a half an inch apart as a rule. It is advisable to muzzle the dog afterwards or keep on a light bandage to keep the dog from biting off the threads and undoing the stitches with his mouth and. tongue. The wound heals by adhesion or gran- ulation matter forming and great attention must now be paid to keeping it clean so as to prevent purification of exuding matter. Constantly wash away all discharge, sponging fr-eely with Pure carbolic acid % ounce Glycerine 2 ounces With water to make a quart. Or the antiseptic prescription referred to be- low. In slight cuts in the legs or feet, all that is necessary is to wash well and apply friars balsam. If severe and requiring bandaging, apply a piece of lint under the bandage saturated with a mixture of friars balsam and camphorated oil. The above is Dalziel's idea. Lately I have in such cases used Peroxyde of Hydrogen, or, better yet, applied tincture of iodine and then to heal it up, used the "Ungucntine" salve, as advised in Bites, instead of the above, and with best of results* 42 DISEASES Either Dalziel's or my own will, however, do. In applying the Peroxyde of Hydrogen, just tip the bottle up against the wound for a second, when you will see a white foaming or bubbling discharge come from the sore. This should not be wiped off or allowed to remain on for over a minute or so, but removed then by a little water squeezed on it from a sponge or cloth. In using the tincture of iodine, apply it with a small brush, and after it has dried, then rub the "Unguentine" on, once or twice daily. A good idea is , to always keep on hand a small vial of tincture of iodine, kept tightly corked. Judgment must be exercised as to length of time the wound is to be kept open and dischorging, the Peroxyde tending to close it up, as will the tincture of iodine, but use the latter on wound as long as there is any bleeding, once a day generally is often enough for this. Chorea. — Dalziel's treatise and treatment I give in full, for it is eminently correct, judging by my own experience. It is a hard disease to cure, but I have cured young dogs one or two years old. Read what Dalziel says, and if you have a dog so afflicted, at least try to cure it. I never admit but what any disease can be cured,- or helped, and I try every remedy anyhow. Sergeant's Condition Pills have cured cases in younger dogs for me, and as they always do good and never harm, it is worth while trying, for you will be doing your dog some good at least. There is not much, if any, pain in chorea, and I had a pug bitch three years old that had a chronic case of it, but yet she bred and raised a healthy litter of pups. This was an exception, however, as, being a ner- vous trouble, it is transmitable, and I would not advise using either a bitch or a dog for breeding purposes that was so afflicted. It is, of course, unpleasant to see a dog constantly twitching or jerking, but so long as they do not suffer I think it my duty to let them live. "This most distressing complaint arises from some derangement of the nervous system, and generally exists as a sequence of distemper, when It is known among kennel men as "the twitch." Chorea, or St. Vitus' dance, may, however, arise from other causes, producing a disturbing effect on the nervous system such as a severe Injury or blow on the head, the irrita- tion caused by worms, or long-continued Impaired digestion. By far the most common cause, however, is distemper, the brain receiving some in- jury in that variety of the disease known as "Head Distemper." The symp- tom Indicating chorea is a peculiar Involuntary convulsive twitching of the muscles. These spasmodic movements or jerklngs may be either par- tial or general, but usually partial. One or both hind legs are affected, or the twitching extends to the muscles of the fore legs, neck and shoul- ders, in which case the head is bobbed up and down in a silly, helpless manner. Sometimes the eyelids and muscles of the face are affected, but Whatever part of the body, is attacked the peculiar twitching or jerking Is always unmistakable. When the hind quarters are the seat of the disease the dog will sometimes suddenly drop one of the limbs from the hip joint, apparently from sudden loss of power or command over the guiding muscles. The weakness is strongly shown when the dog attempts to jump onto a chair or the lap, which he fails to do, and generally falls on hte side "all in a heap." There are very few dogs severely afflicted with r • - DISEASES 43 chorea that ever get completely cured. When the attack is but slight the dog may live for years and prove a useful animal, as, except in severe cases, it does not seem to greatly impair the general health. The con- stant twitching is, however, so annoying a sight to most people that few would care to keep a dog thus afflicted. Although dogs carefully and properly treated in distemper are less likely to suffer from this disease, yet it will occasionally occur in the best managed kennels, and so I must proceed to consider its treatment. The first thing to be done is to attend to the general health, and especially to see that the bowels are in a properly regulated state; and it is better, if their action requires correction, to endeavor to accomplish that object by a careful regulation of diet, rather than by a resort to physic; indeed, all through chorea the food must be of a nature easily digested and given with regularity if any course of medicinal treatment is to be successful. The remedies recommended in chorea are arsenic, sulphate of zinc, nitrate of silver and nux vomica and its preparations. Arsenic I do not recommend, but either of the following may be tried, and it is sometimes found that using them alternately has a more beneficial effect than a perseverance with one remedy only. Pills may be made thus: Sulphate of Zinc. Pills. Sulphate of zinc 2 4 grains Extract of gentian 18 grains Powdered gum acacia 18 grains Make into twelve pills. Dose for a dog 30-lb. to 50-lb. weight, one pill twice a day. Small dogs a half pill as a dose. Nitrate of Silver Pills. Nitrate of silver 3 grains Bread 2 drams Make into twenty-four pills. Dose for a dog 30-lb. to 50-lb. weight, one pill twice a day given at the time of feeding. Small toy dogs of 10 to 12 lbs. give one-half a pill as a dose. The following pills I have found Very successful, and can Btrongly recommend them, although, of course, they a/e not infallible. As the ingredients require very great accuracy in weighing, and very careful mixing, this must be left to a properly qualified dispensing chemist, and the box containing the pills should be kept strictly in the master's pos- session, for fear of accident: Strychnine 1 grain Quinine 18 grains Extract of belladonna 6 grains Extract of gentian 1 dram Powder for Compond Rhubarb Pill 1 dram Mix very carefully and divide into forty-eight pills. Dose for a dpg 44 DISEASES 20-lb. to 40-lb. weight, one pill twice a day with his food. Small dogs, half a pill. St. Bernards, one and one-half pills as a dose. "It is necessary in chorea to continue the use of these remedies for a considerable time — at least a month or two months, in most cases — to produce any satisfactory result, or even to give them a fair trial; and, as before said, the dog must be carefully fed, well lodged and properly exer- cised when he has sufficient power to use his limps, and in the case of dogs reared in towns, a change to the country for some weeks would be beneficial. Galvanism has been recommended for chorea; I have not seen it tried, but should think it well worth a trial." Here are two different cases of chorea prescribed for by the American Field: "About two months since I bred a young pug bitch, and shortly after- ward I noticed a nervous affection in her face; just about as regular as a clock would tick the lower jaw would drop and raise again, and for a while her tongue would hang out at one side as if partially paralyzed. "What is the probable cause, and what treatment should she have? She did not whelp, and this was her first mating. Ans. — Chorea; give two drops of Fowler's Solution of Arsenic three times daily for six consecutive days, then increase the dose one drop daily until fifteen drops are given at each and every dose; continue this for one week, then decrease in the same raitio. "Please prescribe for my English setter bitch that has had, for the last two months, a severe jerking in her fore legs, seeming to be worse, in damp weather; otherwise she is apparently in good health. The bitch had the distemper about two or three months ago. Ans. — Chorea. For ten consecutive days give ten grains of iodide of potash three times daily, then give six drops of Fowler's Solution three times daily for seven con- secutive days, and on the eighth day increase the dose one drop daily until thirty drops are given at each and every dose; continue this for fourteen days then decrease in the same raitio." The electric battery has proved of great benefit in many cases. The two above cases of chorea in a pug and an English setter gives you the old and well-known Fowlers' Solution of Arsenic treatment, and prbper sized doses, if you wish to try it. This is the old-time remedy and has cured Chorea when directions were carefully followed. ■•.-., The following article on Chorea was. written especially for .this', book by Dent: "Chorea is the most distressing nervous complaint dog owners are familiar with. It is due to an involuntary nervous discharge of the motor cells controlling certain muscles. The essential pathology of these more or less constant muscular twitchings has baffled all scientific investigation, and careful microscopic autopsies, extending from the nerve terminus in a muscle back to the cord and brain, have failed to reveal a lesion that can be considered a cause. "The most satisfactory theory is that the brain cells controlling a certain muscle or set of muscles are so weakened by the poison of distemper or some other cause as to cause them to send out muscular impulses with- out natural mental impulse or will power. DISEASES 45. "There is a form of chorea, clue to a disturbed nervous system, induced by blows or injuries to the, or the presence of intestinal parasites which have deranged the, digestive organs. This form of chorea is generally curable. The form which follows distemper is not so amenable to treat- ment. "The symptoms are so prominent and characteristic that there is no mistaking the disease, and the peculiar involuntary twitching of the muscles once seen is never forgotten. Then entire body may be affected; generally it is only one set of muscles, those of the foreleg or of the neck and shoul- ders, in which case the head bobs up and down in a most helpless manner. Where the hindlegs are affected the dog will suddenly drop one' of the limbs from the hip downward as if there was an entire loss of strength and power. This is particularly noticeable if it attempts to jump on a chair or table, for, after one or two attempts, it falls on its side or in a heap, completely helpless. "The top of the head is often affected and twitches and throbs in a most peculiar manner, and the jerking is commonly observable about the muscles of the eyelids, lips and face. In severe cases of chorea the gen- eral health is affected, and the animal shows signs of suffering probably due to anxiety and appreciation of its helpfulness. In mild cases it does not affect the animal's general health, and some field dogs have it all their lives without affecting their usefulness. The owner, however, is annoyed by the constant muscular movements and is always anxious to effect a cure. Some cases are quiet during sleep, others are worse. "Treatment. — Although the disease occurs in the best regulated ken- nels, despite the most careful treatment of distemper, it does not alter the fact that dogs properly treated for distemper and worms and well housed and fed are less liable to the disease than those which are neglected. "The first thing to do is to look after the animal's general health. See that the bowels act promptly and this is accomplished best by dieting and the feeding of foods possessing laxative properties and not by resorting to physics. If there is the slightest suspicion of worms treat for them, as they torment the nervous system beyond all measure and are the cause of many attacks. "Feed regularly and carefully, and if there is a tendency to constipa- tion use well boiled oatmeal. Mutton broths with stale bread, beef well boiled or raw lean beef chopped fine. From two to five grains of pepsin and one-half grain of diastase can be given after each meal, to assist the stomach in the process of digestion. If there is much debility and weak- ness give emulson of cod liver oil in doses of from one teaspoonful to three tablespoonfuls three or four times a day. "The drugs principally used are mix vomica or strychnine and arsenic. Some practitioners use a dose of nux vomica in the morning and arsenic at night. As both of these drugs are poisonous they must be used with care. The dose of nux vomica is from two to twelve drops of the tincture twice a day. It is a valuable vegetable, bitter, and an aid to digestion as well as a nerve stimulant. Any stiffness of the muscles or tendency to spasms is an indication for its immediate discontinuance. "Fowler's Solution of Arsenic is the most convenient form. The dose 46 DISEASE3 is from one to thirty drops. Give a drop at first, increasing it one drop a day up to the larger dose, then gradually decreasing and discontinue for a time, and whenever there is any constitutional symptoms of its ef- fects, such as reddened or fullness under the eye, nausea, whitish tongue, etc. "The following pills are highly recommended by many who have used •them. As some of the ingredients are poisonous, they should be prepar- ed by a qualified druggist or pharmacy graduate. Strychnine one grain, extract of belladonna six grains, extract of gentian one dram, gipsin three drams. . Mix carefully and divide into forty-eight pills, one of which is to be given night and morning in the patient's food. This dose is for a dog weighing from thirty to fifty pounds. "The medicines heretofore mentioned are, in their action, purely alter- ative and nerve stimulating; in connection with them may be mentioed the use of the electrical current from a surgeon's battery. Obstinate and apparently incurable cases sometimes show a decided improvement, and radical cures are effected, in response to a gentle stimulating current of electricity. One electrode should be applied to the neck directly over the spinal cord, the other to the extremity of the affected leg, and the electrical stimulation continued for from five to thirty minutes twice a day. The beneficial effects from a careful massage of the leg and a manipulation of the muscles cannot be overestimated. Besides breaking down adhesions or agglutinations of the muscle fibers, it increases the supply of blood to the part and promotes its nutrition and has a most beneficial reflex action on the- entire nervous system." Cramp.— This term is often indiscriminately applied by sportsmen to spasm from whatever cause; but cramp of the limbs from exposure to cold and wet often occurs, and it will quickly yield to brisk rubbing and warmth. If nothing else is handy, rub with a little spirit and water or a rough dry cloth. Dogs used in hunting or retrieving from water are very liable to it, the hindquarters being most frequently affected, and in such cases a good brisk liniment, such as the following, should be carried in the boat: Stimulating Liniment. — Compound camphor liniment, 3 oz.; olive oil, spirit of turpentine, and spirit of hartshorn, of each 1 oz.; mix. A hot bath is also very effective, especially if the dog is afterward gently rubbed; care must, however, be taken to dry the animal thoroughly. Crooked Limbs. — See Rickets. Cancer. — This can only safely be treated by the verterinary surgeon. The main thing for the dog's owner is to be able to distinguish between cancer and other tumors. The safest plan is, however, not to take any chance by delay, but on suspicion consult the veterinarian. Choking. — This accident is not uncommon with greedy animals that bolt their food; a bone, a piece of gristly meat, or other hard substance, is bolted, and sticks fast in its passage to the stomach. I always adopt DISEASES 4? the plan of reserving bones until after the clogs have fed, for if given with the other food they are at once picked out, and the smaller ones are, when the dog is hungry, apt to be swallowed unmasticated and produce choking. Treatment. — Frequently by manipulating the throat outside with the fingers the obstruction can be worked down the gullet, or if it can be felt in the upper part of the throat, it may be removed by the throat forceps, which most veterinary surgeons keep by them. Hill recommends, when the substance is too low for extraction, and manipulating with the fingers externally fails, to endeavor gently to force it down with a piece of bent whalebone, having a piece of sponge tied to the end of it, and dipped in oil. In using this extra care must be taken that the sponge is so firmly attached to the whalebone that it cannot slip off, for if swallowed it might effectually block up one of the smaller intestines; therefore, cut nitches in the whalebone, into which- tie the piece of sponge. As soreness, if not actual laceration, is almost sure to be caused, the dog should for some days after be confined to soft food. The following, on choking, I found. The subject is so ably treated, that I publish it also: "This is of very frequent occurrence with dogs, as usually they are voracious feeders, careless of consequences, and the fact that they use their mouths much as we do our hands in grasping and conveying various objects makes them particularly liable to swallow foreign substances, that may become lodged in the gullet. The commonest objects on which dogs choke are bones that they have been feeding upon. If the bone lodges in the back of the throat it may set up such a violent coughing and retching as to asphyxiate the subject. The back of the throat, however, is not the usual lodging place, for as a rule the bone or other object passes that point, where the gullet is comparatively large, and lodges over the heart, where it is smaller. Locating at this point causes the greatest distress. The dog keeps gulping as if trying to swallow, and from time to time is seized with a period of retching. In a day or two the extreme distress passes, and the patient drinks water and milk or other liquids freely and can also swallow raw eggs, but if solid food is taken, directly it reaches the obstruction it lodges. Young dogs and those which are playful sometimes swallow needles and pins. These usually become imbedded in the back of the tongue, and can be removed from that position, but sometimes they reach the gullet and pass through into the tissues, forming an abscess, their usual location being just behind the angle of the jaw. Removing needles and pins from the back of the tongue is done most easily with a pair of forceps, although it sometimes can be. done with the finger. The principal thing is to be careful not to break the object. The symptoms in these cases are usually very severe, so that prompt action is necessary. In those cases where a bone has pased far down the gullet- and lodged over the heart it is sometimes sufficient to feed the dog a few pieces of meat, which will force the obstruction on. If this is not success- ful a probang must be uesd to force the obstruction down into the stom- ach, but this should be attempted only by a skillful veterinarian or a physician, as it may be necessary to use considerable force, and there is 48 j DISEASES danger of rupturing the gullet,, which, is fatal. If the obstruction cannot be removed by the probang, then the only thing remaining is to feed the patient on liquid food until such time as the sharp points of the bone become dissolved and rounded off, so that it will be easily pushed along by the probang." _ CHLOROFORMING DOGS FOR AN OPERATION. If it is really necessary to do this, then have a careful anethetist who understands his subject, do the work. A quarter of an hour is long enough for a dog to be kept under the influence, and should be ample time for any operation. Chloroform is dangerous, at best, with any dogs, and with some breeds, Chow Chows for instance, it is sure to mean a dead dog. Anyone who has had experience in the destruction of dogs with chloroform, knows how quickly they succumb to it. Ether is a safer anesthetic, which can be used with as much success and far less risk. If an anesthetic has to be given, ask the operating surgeon to use ether. The bet way to give an anesthetic: put on a wire cage muzzle, having first secured dog so he cannot struggle. Around the muzzle an ordinary piece of surgeon's list can be placed, and on this the anesthetic. For many minor operations, liquid cocaine can be used instead, the dog strapped down, and his owner also hold and control his dog. I have done this without the strapping even, talked to the dog, he understood me, and stood the pain. This was the removal of a cyst on a Pug dog, behind his ear, the size of a lemon. Cocaine was used. Coryza. — See Catarrh. Costiveness. — See Constipation. Caked Breast. — This is generally caused by milk fever, a too plentiful supply of milk which is not nursed sufficiently from the dam by a small litter, or will happen in cases of the bitch loosing her puppies. She must be milked three times daily by hand (this done gently on teats that are hard and caked) for a few days, gradually getting down to twice, and then once a day, stopping as the flow of milk gets less. Also use quite often, every two hours or so, camphorated oil or gum camphor and lard melted together (which should be kept in a corked jar), rubbing this in well on all the teats. This will dry up the milk, soften up the caked breasts and dry up the hanging down bag as well, making the bitch more sightly looking. A solution of camphor, tannin and glycerine, which any druggist can put up for you, is the very best thing to use alone for drying up the bags of a bitch after she has weaned her puppies. Dent prescribed for following case: "My English setter bitch, six years old, whelped and had a caked udder but seemed to get over it. Now one of the front teats shows a lump or cake as large as an English walnut. What treatment do you DISEASES 49 advise and what is it? Ans. — It is simply caked. Give five grains of the iodide of potash three times a day for two weeks and apply with gentle friction to the enlarged teat the following ointment: Belladonna extract twenty grains, gum camphor twenty grains, lanolin one ounce. She can he bred safely when she comes in season." Claws, Overgrown — Toy dogs and house pets which have little or no exercise out of doors, where they can dig and scrape the ground, and so wear the claws down, suffer from an overgrowth of them. The nail curls round, and, if not cut in time, it grows into the sole of the foot, causing soreness and lameness. The ends of the claws should be cut off with a pair of sharp, strong nippers, or nail clippers, such as one can buy at any cutler's for 7 5 cents. Puppies' toe nails, especially of those running on grass or on boards in winter, grow long and tend to spread the toes open, when the latter should be compact. Extreme care should be ob- served that only the dead white or light colored nails is cut off, and when the nail is dark, judgment must be exercised. It is best to clip little and often, and especially so if the nail has a tendency to grow in. In cases which have been neglected, the process of removal should be gradual, a small portion being taken off every few days or so until the claws are of the normal length. If the sole or flesh has been pene- trated, it will most likely fester, and should be freely bathed in warm water, and the "Unguentine" salve used to heal. Cold in the Head — See Catarrh. Clipping Toe Nails. — See Overgrown Claws. Callosities. — Bare callous places on the dog from rubbing, chafing or lying on bare boards. Large dogs are very often so troubled. Glycerine or vaseline is used quite often, and keep treatment up for some time, either of which will soften and tend to remove these lumps. They do no harm but detract from the appearance of the dog. Eberhart's skin remedy will, in due time, fix them up, but should be well rubbed in, twice daily. Catarrh Dogs that are badly kenneled, exposed to cold winds, and those that have lately had distemper, or a severe cold, are subject to an inflammation of the membranes of the nostrils and air passages, and a more or less thick discharge of muco purulent matter from the nose, constitut- ing what is commonly known as catarrh. The disease is "disgusting and annoying in the extreme, and has a very debilitating effect upon the patients general health. The eyes become affected, and if the disease is not promptly treated, the inflammation spreads to the bones of the head, the discharge unendurably offensive, and the breathing is seriously interferred with. The longer the disease is neglected the worse it becomes. Treatment. — Remove all discharge from the nostrils by frequent bath- ing with a saturated solution of boracic acid, as the discharge irritates the external parts and is liable to cause Eczema. With a small syringe a small 50 DISEASES quantity of the following solution shouid be injected into the nostrils three times daily: Sulphate of zinc ■ 8 grains Boracic acid 30 grains Glycerine 1 ounce Water 1 ounce An ordinary atomizer or spray can be used to good advantage several times a day, using either listerine or a spray after the following formula: Sodal biborat 1 dram. Sodal carb 1 dram Acid carbolic 6 grains Sulp. of zinc 1° grains Sulp. of morphine .' 10 grains Glycerine , 1 ounce Distilled water 8 ounces Keep dog in warm, comfortable quarters and pay particular attention to his diet. If there is any tendency to scantiness of urine, or costiveness, give 30 drops of cascara sagrada in a teaspoonful of olive oil. Feed any- thing he will eat and give a tablespoonful of cod liver oil emulsion, (small toys of course less), or Fellows' Syrup of Hyphophosphites four times a day, containing in addition, 20 drops of the Syrup of Iodide of Iron. If there is much discharge from the eyes wash them several times daily with a saturated solution of boracic acid. Chronic Catarrh of Uterus. — This sometimes occurs in bitches, just why is hard to say. Such bitches are not liable to breed. They come in season same as others, but the discharge at such times is white, really the same discharge they have had right along, only not noticed perhaps. Treatment would depend on cause of the catarrh, and for which, refer to "Catarrh." Chest Founder. — See Kennel Lameness. • Catarrh, or Cold in the Head.— Dogs that live in freedom, although exposed to changes of temperature and weather, are not so liable to attacks of catarrh as are those more delicately reared, in whom a sudden change from the close atmosphere of the room to the open air, or exposure to a shower of rain, frequently will produce a cold. First symptoms are shiv- ering and evident languor, succeeded by a hot, dry nose, with a thin dis- charge at first, but which gradually thickens. If the disease proceed, a hot skin, dullness about the eyes, with other evidence of fever, follow, according to the severity of the case. There is more or less discharge from the nose, sometimes accompanied with sneezing; and if severe, and the bronchial tubes affected, a cough will be the result. It' is pretty well understood, when applied to ourselves, that a cold uncared for, is most DISEASES 51 likely to lead to serious illness; and it is no less true of the dog. (See also Ozaena). In puppies the symptoms of common cold may be mis- taken for those of distemper; and in older dogs, if unchecked and uncared for, it is likely to lead to bronchitis, inflammation of the lungs, or other dangerous disease. It is, therefore, very necessary to pay attention to the first appearance of a deviation from health in this direction, mindful of the old proverb — "A stitch in time saves nine." A coat placed on the dog, as previously advised under Bronchitis. Some hardy animals will need no further care than an extra warm bed, and a warm supper; but others will require more attention. If conjointly with other symptoms mentioned, there is a scantiness of urine, and costive bowels, give a dose of aperient medicine, follow- ed by a few doses of the Fever Mixture: Powdered Nitre .' 1 dram Sweet Spirits of Nitre • Vz ounce Mindererous Spirit % ounce Wine of antimony 1 dram Water 4 ounces Dose for 20 to 50 pound dog, one tablespoonful every four hours in a little gruel. Smaller, or younger dogs, a teaspoonful to a de- sertspoonful. Remove any discharge from the eyes with warm water. If they are in- flamed, bathe with the following lotion: Boracic acid, powdered, 1 scr. ; distilled water, 6 oz. To allow the dog to breathe freely, the nose must be bathed, which will tend to prevent accumulation of mucus. During con-, valesence the following is useful: Easton's Syrup %oz., water to 6 ounces. Dose, a desertspoonful to a tablespoonful twice a day after food. Here is where, in place of this, I would use Eberhart's Tonic Pill. Unless the cold has engendered some more dangerous complaint, this treatment will be all that is required. If the cough be severe, use some cough remedy. See Cough. Calculi. — The dog is more frequently the subject of Calculi (stone), than is generally supposed. Their locality varies; may exist in the biliary ducts, the bladder, the kidneys, or in the urethra (the passage of the penis). In Biliary Calculi, those stones situated in the biliary ducts, providing they are sufficiently small to pass the duct, are not of great moment — in fact, upin post mortem their existence has often been discovered, while during life po pain or inconvenience was noticed, but should these stones be too large to pass the ducts, they are very painful and a most fruitful cause of jaundice. The bile, which in health passes through these ducts, becomes completely impeded in its progress, and is re-absorbed by the blood vessels entering the general system, and jaundice is established. The symptoms of biliary calculi, when not completly blocking the ducts, are excessive sickness and constipation, with pain in the abdomen. The treatment should consist in allaying the pain, when the stone will fre- 52 - f DISEASES quently pass in a natural way. For this give 5 to 30 drops tincture of opium every four hours, in a little water, and a soap and water enema night and morning to relieve the bowels, opium having a tendency to con- stipate. Cystic Calculi is stone found in the bladder. It is supposed that their existence is rare, but such is not the case. A single large stone is not frequently seen, but a number of small ones, especially in old dogs, is not at all uncommon. In the former case, nothing short of an opera- tion can possibly effect a cure; but when one takes into consideration the necessity of keeping a patient in one position after the operation it will be patent to most that in canine practice the removal of the stone is seldom, if ever, attended with success. Small calculi will frequently pass from the bladder into the urinary passages, and if small enough, out of the body, through the penis; but often these stones will become fixed in the urethra and the dog is unable to pass its water. The bladder be- comes distended, and if not relieved, rupture of the organ results. When you find a dog cannot pass its water, get a catheter, rub a little olive oil or vaseline upon it, and the instrument inserted at the tip of the penis. Of course, the dog must be placed on its back. Insert the catheter very gently, and gradually pass it into the bladder. If there is a small calculus in the urethra the passage of the catheter will be obstructed, and while this is so, no extreme force must be used, or a very extensive injury may result. A little gentle and prolonged pressure may return the stone into the bladder, and so allow the urine to pass. If the stone cannot be re- turned in this attempt, inject into the passage of the penis, a little olive oil, and repeat the operation with the catheter. Calculi sometimes exist in the kidneys and may pass into the bladder, thence through the urinary passage, and so out of the body; but at other times they become too large to leave the organ, causing intense pain and subsequent death. The symp- toms are first, stiffness across the loins, accompanied by pain when an attempt is made to move; the urine is passed in small quantities, and is frequently — indeed often — tinged with blood. In such cases it is a matter of relieving the pain, with the hope that the stone is small enough to gain an exit by the penis. To relieve the pain give 5 to 30 drops of tincture of opium, about every four hours, and apply hot flannels to the loins. A dose of oil to relieve the bowels is beneficial, as any straining in passing the faeces would increase the pain. It is best to leave these cases to the veterinarian. Dew Claws. — Darwin describes as "accidental monstrosities," yet a gen- eral opinion prevails that dew claws are the peculiar inheritance of a few breeds of dogs, and from this false idea possession or non-possession of these now utterly useles, clumy and ugly appendange has been set up as a test of purity or impurity of breeding in specimens of the variety of which they are wrongly ascribed as being the peculiar property. The dew claw is attached to a rudiment, more or less developed, of an addi- tamentary phalange or toe situated on the inner side, one to each foot, dis- tant from and considerably above the other toes. I < DISEASES 53 These additional toes are frequently unattached to any corresponding metacarpal or metatarsal bone, having only a ligamentary union, so that the term is equally applicable to the extra toe often seen on the foreleg; and, as they are neither useful nor ornamental, I would in all cases have them removed, being only a disfigurement in any breed. This should be done when the pups are with the dam, as she will take care of the wound and heal it up by licking it; and this can be easily done with a pair of strong scissors. If left till the dog is older, they are liable to bleed a good deal, and the pain, of course, is greater; in such case, the wound produced by the excision should be at once well saturated with frairs' balsam. If it is thought well to remove the nail only, that can be done by pulling it out with a pair of nippers. DESTRUCTION OF DOGS. "It is often necessary to destroy dogs that have become so crippled or injured as to make cure very doubtful; and in most litters of puppies there are some so puny or so wanting in the characteristics of the breed that they ought not to be reared. In the latter case it is most humane to destroy such as are not wanted as soon after they are born as possible; but even when a mesalliance has taken place, one at least of the puppies should be left with the dam, unless one or more foster pups of pure blood can be substituted. For destroying young puppies there is no more convenient or less painful method than drowning; while for mature dogs a teaspoonful of Scheele's prussic acid will cause instantaneous death. In giving it, the mouth of the dog should be held open and upwards, and the acid poured well back on the tongue. The very greatest care is, however, necessary in dealing with a drug of such potency; and it would be highly dangerous to life if any of it were" spilled over a cut or wound." The above was written I think, by F. J. Skinner, as I got it from Field and Fancy, and give it as good advise. I bave used the prussic acid in cases of an old and helpless dog, that had to be put out of the way, and it worked very quickly, as its action goes direct to the heart, the pain so short, that it seems to be humane. Lately I have cloroformed several, and rather favor the chloroform route. I lay the dog down on its side, my right hand under a piece of carpet on which is some cotton in the center, and have an assistant pour on this cotton the chloroform, and I then quickly apply this to the nose of the dog, the cotton, and quickly pull the carpet around the head to neck, holding it there so no air can get in, the assis- tant meanwhile holding the back part and legs of dog. The dog will gen- erally resist the fumes of the chloroform, but only for a few seconds, and in about a minute he will be dead, providing he has not gotten the carpet loose, and some air thereby. Drowning is as painless as any death can be, especially for puppies. I get a pail, fill it partly full of water, bave a pan that fits the top of the pail, put puppies in, the pan on quickly, and on top of the pan a rock or lump of coal, heavy enough to hold pan down, and then I go away. Debility and Wasting. — It happens sometimes that a dog gradually 54 DISEASES V becomes weak and wasting in flesh, and you haven't found the cause. In such cases Eberhart's Tonic Pills are just what the dog should have for a few weeks, as they can do no harm, but will do great good in building a run down dog up, create an appetite and work on all the organs, invigorat- ing the system. They are different from other condition pills, as they contain no arsenic or "dope" of any kind. Add to the dogs diet for a few days, some raw, lean beef cut up fine, sprinkled with a little pepsin, once a day. Also look for any symptoms of divergence from health which may indicate the cause of the trouble. Docking Tails — While this is not a disease, yet it happens frequently that puppies suffer not a little from this being clumsily done. It is not a painful operation if properly done and before puppy is weaned. Fox ter- riers, poodles and a few other breeds should have their tails docked to conform to present bench show requirements. An old superstition exists with some people yet that a tail must be bitten off, which is simply erron- eous and disgusting. Never use a shears or scissors as the pinching before the cut would cause more pain than the cutting. Before you are ready to cut the tail get an ounce of tincture of iron. .Have a solid block or table, have an assistant hold the puppy up to it with its tail laid on the block; calculate how long or short a tail you want (three inches is about right), then let assistant hold puppy up to table with tail lying on it; have a sharp butcher knife ready, and with one quick and rapid cut the tail is off. Tip your bottle of tincture of iron up to and against the end of tail and drop your pup down in the yard. I have docked the tails of a litter of poodle pups when not one of them gave a cry or yelp from the operation, but did not seem to notice it at all and went on playing as usual as if nothing had occurred. The mother will lick and take care of the tails, and they will heal up in due time. Pull the skin back with your left hand when you are ready to do the cutting. Dysentery. — This is a more dangerous disease than diarrhea, which, when protracted, sometimes causes it, and may be described as diarrhea in its most aggravated form; there is generally feverishness present, con- siderable pain, and the evacuations are often black in color and very offen- sive, and followed by discharge of a gelationous-like substance mixed with blood. The loss of strength is very rapid, and the dog must be supported by drenching with beef tea and a little port wine in it, the medicine and general treatment being the same as in diarrhea. In one case of this kind, in a retriever, I gave two doses of twenty drops of chlorodyne with very good effect. The discharges in dysentery are immediately caused by in- flammation of the mucous membrane lining in intestines, and are distin- guished from diarrhea by containing no fecal matter except occasionally wTaen it is voided in lumps; but the ordinary evacuations in dysentery, although they vary in appearance, are generally slimy looking and com- posed of mucus mixed with blood, and in the advanced stages of the disease pus is discharged and shreds of the mucus membrane, very offen- sive in character. The disease is very weakening, causes great pain and DISEASES 55 straining, and is very difficult to manage; it often occurs in protracted cases of distemper, and carries off the patient. In treating dysentery the "anodyne mixture" given in diarrhea treat- ment should be tried in the first instance alone, and if ineffectual, one of the following pills for a dog of 60-lb. to SO-lb., every four hours may be tried with good results. For smaller dogs half a pill. Pills for Dysentery. Take of tannic acid 2 scruples and pure sulphate of copper 1 dram, powdered opium 20 grains, mixed, and divide into twenty pills; or if a liquid medicine should be preferred, the following will answer: Take of pure sulphate of copper 48 grains, dissolve in 2 ounces of cinnamon wa- ter; add V2 ounce of tincture of catechu, y 2 ounce of laudanum, 6 drams of aromatic spirits of ammonia, and make up to 12 ounces with cinnamon water. Dose for an 80-lb. dog two tablespoonfuls every four hours; smaller dogs in proportion. Clysters of starch, with one dram of laudanum in each, are often very beneficial, and one may be thrown up every four or five hours. The patient should have perfect rest, all evacuations should be in- stantly removed, and the place where the patient is (which should be warm but airy) kept sweet with disinfectants. The food should consist of pearl barley, rice, arrowroot or wheaten flour, boiled in milk, varied with strong beef tea slightly thickened with stale bread or plain biscuit. I have cured dogs of dysentery of long standing, obstinate cases, with the following prescription, which was found to be very valuable in the treatment of such cases in the human race — of soldiers who contracted this disease in the war of '61. A friend of mine, a noted doctor in human prac- tice, gave it to me and I "tried it on a dog," succeeding in effecting a per- manent cure, since which time I have used it in several such cases with success. Take sima ruba bark, two ounces, and put it in a quart of water, boil this down to a pint, then strain and boil this down to half a pint. (Be careful to not burn.) The dose for a dog the size of a pointer would be a teaspoonful three times a. day. Large dogs like a St. Bernard, two teaspoonfuls at a dose, while very small toy dogs like a toy terrier, should have half a teaspoonful at a time. The following prescription was furnished me by Mr. J. A. Rogers, of Ironton, Ohio, after trying it on his pointer that had suffered with chronic dysentery for over a month till the dog was a skeleton and could hardly stand up. This dog had been treated for worms, at first supposed to be the cause of the trouble, and several well-known remedies tried, but no worms and no stoppage of the dysentery. As a last resort he tried this prescription, and cured the dog. From a full history of this extreme case, furnished me by several letters during its duration, I have concluded that this is a very valuable remedy and likely to cure when everything else fails: Specific aconite 10 drops Specific baptisia 10 drops Specific ipecac 15 drops Specific ecefolta " 1 dram- f,6 DISEASES Glycerine • • • . 4 drams Add water (distilled) to make 8 ounces Of the first four articles use only Lloyd Bros.' preparations — a Cincinnati wholesale drug firm. If your druggist doesn't have them in stock, he can get them by ordering from Lloyd Bros.', or I can get this prescription filled and send you. The dose would be at first — until you see a change for the better — a teaspoonful every hour until three or four doses are given, then every two hours. Of course, if the patient should be a very young puppy, the dose should be smaller, but such cases of dysentery are seldom found in puppies, except when a very great looseness of the bowels appears, generally due to worms; such cases very likely will be cured by proper worm treatment, which find under heading of Worms. In above pre- scription the ecefolta is most excellent for the blood, blood-poisoning and as a disinfectant to kill germs, and to reduce fever, which every dog has in a case of dysentery. Dog also has a cold which the aconite will relieve. The baptisia is for fever and the blood, the ipecac for the stomach and mucous membrane of the stomach and bowels. I will add here that this remedy was intended by the regular doctor, who prescribed it for this dog — for humans, but was tried, and successfully, on the dog in this case. Worms may have been the original cause of this case of dysentery. Dry browned toast soaked in meat broths or gravy is very good food to use in such cases of dysentery. Dent has written especially for this book the following on Dysentery: "This disease is frequently neglected with the false hope that it will cure itself. It is a serious affection and demands prompt care and treat- ment. Causes are inflammation of the mucous membrane of the lower bowels or large intestines, accompanied by ulceration, and in many cases bleeding. The action of poisons, eating of putrid food, rapid' changes from heat to cold and. vice versa, also the after-effects of inflammation of the small intestines. "Symptoms. — At first there is a loss of appetite, restlessness, painful condition of the bowels, as attested by pressure on the belly. The nose is hot and dry, the animal is feverish, and at first constipated. Afterwards the bowels, after more or less straining, begin to move, the passages are putrid and more disagreeable, become more frequent and tinged with blood as a result of injury to the bowels, or with pus as a result of ulceration. "Treatment. — Give a dose to a 40-lb. dog, %oz. each of olive oil and castor oil, to which can be added from 10 to 20 drops of laudanum; small- er and larger dogs a proportonate dose. Give injections of boiled starch water, with 20 to 40 drops of laudanum. If the disease has become chronic it may be necessary to try several different prescriptions before arriving at a cure. Here is one: Sub-nitrate of bismuth 2 drams Ipecacuana powdered 30 grains Pepsin 1 d r am Siastrase , 4 grains Dose. — Divide into 12 powders and give one three times a day. DISEASES 57 "And here another: Acid tannic 2 drams Opium powdered 12 grains Pepsin 1 dram "Dose. — Divide into 12 powders and give one three times a day. The foregoing-sized doses are based on a 40-lb. dog. Smaller or larger dogs in proportion. Feed white of egg, gelatin, beef tea, lime water and milk, toast and beef tea. Keep the patient warm and quiet." Diarrhea. — Diarrhea is of very frequent occurrence in dogs, and more particularly in young, puppies and in old and overfed dogs. It generally exists as a result of indigestion, brought on by improper feeding. The practice of leaving stale food from one meal to another is a common source of this disease. Diarrhea may be classed as acute and chronic. In the acute form there is much looseness of the bowels, frequently accompanied or preceded by copious vomiting of acrid offensive matter; the evacua- tions are loose, watery and offensive. If not checked, it soon produces excessive weakness, and, especially in puppies, is the cause of great mor- tality. In the chronic state the disease is slower in its progress and longer in its duration. It may be set up by a diseased liver and excess of bile, or it may be the result of inflammation of the bowels. A by no means un- common cause is the abuse of calomel and other mercurials, these being "specifics" with many persons for all dog diseases. Diarrhea often finishes up the work of distemper, and this is so in most cases where, as too fre- quently happens, mercurials have been relied on as a cure for that dis- ease. Worms are also a common cause of diarrhea, and when these exist the nature of the discharge is variable, frequent and small in quantity, Sometimes lumpy, followed by gelatinous, glary matter, and often frothy and covered with small air bubbles. When worms appear to be the cause, means should be taken to expel them as directed later on. Exhalations from accumulations of filth, and especially in low lying, damp and badly drained and badly ventilated kennels, are also a cause of diarrhea, and one which never should exist. In treating diarrhea it is often of con- siderable advantage to give a mild purge to remove the irritating cause. Castor oil is very suitable; and, if there is evidence of much pain attend- ing the disease, a dose of laudanum, from 20 to 30 drops, may be added. As a remedy in diarrhea I know of nothing equal to the following mix- ture, which very rarely fails to check it if the patient at the same time receives proper attention in other respects: Astringent Anodyne Mixture for Diarrhea. Take prepared chalk 3 drams Aramatic confection (powder) : . 2 drams Powdered gum acacia 1 dram (Laudanum) tincture of opium 1 ounce Oil of cassia 6 or 8 drops Tincture of catechu 3 drams 58 DISEASES Spiritis of sal volatile' 2 drams Water sufficient to make 8 ounces • The powders must be rubbed very fine in a mortar, the oil of cassia within them; the water must be gradually added, rubbing well to form a smooth mixture. The tincture added in the bottle. Of this mixture the dose will be from a half to two teaspoonfuls for puppies, and from one to two table- spoonfuls for full-grown dogs, given every three or four hours, as long as the purging continues. The bottle must be well shaken before measuring the dose. When getting this filled, I would advise, either taking your book to the druggist, or copying and showing him as to the mixing of the above. For convenience of form the following may, under circumstances, be preferred, as it keeps well and is in less compass:* Spirits of camphor 2 drams Laudanum x k ounce Spirits of volatile '. . 2 drams Tincture of catechu 1 ounce Mix. Dose, from twenty drops to a teaspoonful in water every three or four hours, if required. "The diet must be carefully regulated all through the disease; such light and easily-digested food as well boiled oatmeal, rice or arrowroot should be given, with milk or beef tea, and if the patient refuses to feed, a little should be given with a spoon or a drencher every two or three hours; when the dog is very weak, add a little port wine to the food; in- stead of plain water, give rice or barley water to drink. In the case of bitches suckling, the diet must be changed, a dose of castor oil given, and the 'astringent anodyne mixture' in small closes, or an injection may. be administered. "If the diarrhea is very persistent, and accompanied by blood, inject twice a day into the rectum 2 gr. to 5 gr. of sulphate of copper with 15 to 60 drops of tincture of opium in 4 oz. of water. If this does not check it, then give % gr. to Vz gr. of sulphate of copper, increasing the dose to 1 gr. with V2 gr. to 1 gr. of powdered opium. "It is most important that rigorous cleanliness should be observed. All discharges should be immediately removed, and the animal kept clean by sponging with lukewarm water if necessary, while disinfectants should be sprinkled 'about. The patient should also be kept warm, and left as quiet and undisturbed as possible. Dr. Clayton's diarrhea cure I have found a very good remedy in many cases. Spratt's Patent (see advertisement) makes a diarrhea pill that I have often used on my dogs, and with great success, in checking up this trouble, which is often caused in dogs at a show by the change in water drank there and on the trip. A tablet or pill is often more easily admin- istered than a liquid. A party wrote as to a diarrhea from distemper in a six-months-old pointer puppy, just over the distemper, that is getting along nicely and DISEASES 59 has a fairly good appetitte, but is bothered with diarrhea. His passages are very thin and very offensive. The puppy tries to do something quite often, and then walks all over the kennel yard and passes a few drops only. At the first stage of the distemper I doctored him for worms and took many from him. For the last five or six weeks I have fed him on eggs and milk, boiled together, with a few crackers in each mess. The diarrhea seems to hold him back so he don't get fat as he should. The answer was to give the dog the following, and, if necessary, to repeat the dose: Chalk 5 grains Laudanum 5 grains Ether 5 drops Mix and give in soup or milk; continue same feeding and to also give dry, well-browned toast soaked in meat broths or meat gravy made with flour in it. Understand that the above prescription was for one dose. Dislocations. — It is much the safest and best plan in such cases to at once summon the veterinarian, and not trust to yourself, as the veretin- arian's knowledge of anatomy and experience in operations of this kind enables him to perform it more readily, and with the least pain possible to the dog. If you are situated so that you cannot secure the veterinary, first examine and determine in what direction the bone is parted from its socket; for instance, in dislocation of the hip, the head of the thigh bone is generally carried upwards and backwards, this being apparent to the eye, as the injured side is thereby made higher and can readily be felt. Have an assistant to hold the dog around the loins steady in one position, while you take hold of the dislocated limb above the stifle joint, which will retract the thigh bone downward and forward. In similar operations you must be guided by the same principle. Rest will be needed for the pa- tient, and violent exercise must not be allowed for some time. There is always a disposition to a repetition of a dislocation. Dropsy. — This is an unnatural accumulation, of water in different parts of the body, as in water on the brain, dropsy of the chest, dropsy of the skin, and dropsy of the belly; and it is the last-named to which the dog is most liable. Dropsy is generally, if not always, the result of some other debilitating disease, and especially of inflammatory disorders; but it may be brought on by unsuitable diet, or by the abuse of drastic purgatives. With the development of shows a new danger has sprung up, as dogs are too often kept on their benches to the suppression of the discharge of thf' excretions, which is a recognized caused of inducing dropsy. Dropsy of the belly need not in the bitch be mistaken for pregnacy, for in the latter the teats enlarge with the belly, which is altogether firmer, and does not droop until just before whelping, while the puppies can be felt through the abdominal walls. In dropsy the belly is more pendulous and baggy, the back is arched, and the water moves readily under pressure; the dropsical animal, too, is generally poor in flesh and harsh in coat. The medicines principally employed in dropsy are iodine, iron and other mineral tonics, fiO DISEASES with digitalis and diuretics; 5 to 15 drops of benzoate of ammonium, or 1 to 3 drops of oil of juniper, with 5 to 20 drops of tincture of nux vomica, in water, three times a day, are also useful in treating the disease which, however, is always best left to a veterinary surgeon. Dyspepsia. — See Indigestion. Diabetes. — This is an increased abnormal flow of urine, the cause being a derangement of some of the assimilative organs, and when long established producing great emaciation and weakness. First, give a few doses of mild purgative, of the "podophyllin pills." Podolphyllin 3 grains Compound extract of colocynth 15 grains Powdered rhubarb 24 grains Extract of henbane 18 grains Mix and divide into 12 pills. Dose one or two pills, according to size of dog. One or two doses probably enough, if it moves the bowels. To allay the thirst, always present in diabetes, give (twice a day) 5 to 30 drops (according to size of dog) of phosphoric acid, largely diluted with water, and- to strengthen the system, 2 to 5 grains of sulphate of iron twice a day in water. If the excessive flow of urine continues after this, then use the following. Astringent Bolus for Diabetes — Take Gallic acid 1 dram Powdered alum 1 dram Powdered opium 12 grains Gum sufficient to form a mass; divide into 24 pills. Dose for a 25-lb. to 50-lb. dog, one pill twice a day. Small toy dogs, one-half pill. And larger than 50-lb., 1 x / 2 pill as a dose. Where the dog is weak and his appetite impaired, have druggist add one grain of quinine to each pill when filling prescription. Another case was prescribed for as follows: "My Cocker bitch drinks a great deal more water than two or three of my other dogs drink, and she also passes a great deal of water — more than any of my other dogs. Will you advise me what to do? From symptoms you mention the dog probably has diabetes. Give some mild purgative for a few days. To allay the thirst give twice a day 5 to 30 drops (according to size of dog) of phosphoric acid largely diluted with water. A dose of sulphate of iron, 2 to 5 grains, twice a day will tone up the system. If the excessive flow continues after this treatment use the following prescription: Gallic acid (one dram), powdered alum (one dram), powdered opium (12 grains), gum sufficient to form a mass, DISEASES 61 and divide into 24 pills. For dogs 25 to 50 pounds in weight give one pill twice a day; Toy dogs, one-half pill. Twenty-four grains quinine added to the prescription will be of value if the dog is weak or appetite impaired." The following, from Field and Fancy, is also valuable advice: "Diabetes is characterized by an abnormal flow of urine, caused by derangement of some of the assimilative organs; when long established it produces great emaciation and weakness. The treatment consists in giv- ing first a few doses of a mild purgative, such as the podophyllin pills. To allay the thirst, which is always present in diabetes, give twice a day 5 to 30 droys of phosphoric acid, largely diluted with water, and to strengthen the system 2 gr. to 5 gr. of suphate of iron twice a day in water. If the excessive flow of urine continues after this treatment, resort must be had to opium, iodine, alum, oak-bark, or its preparations. The following bolus may prove useful in such cases: Astringent Bolus for Diabetes. — Take gallic acid, 1 dr.; powdered alum, 1 dr.; powdered opium, 12 gr. ; gum sufficient to form a mass; divide into twenty-four pills. Dose for a twenty pound dog, one twice a day. Where the animal is weak and the appetite impaired, 1 gr. of quinine may be added to each pill." Diptheria. — Some veterinarians hold that dogs are liable to this alarm- ing and fatal disease. At the slightest suspicion of diphtheria, isolate the patient, as it is contagious, and call in a veterinary surgeon at once. I have never had a case of diphtheria as yet in any of my dogs, but should I have, would at once call in a good doctor or veterinarian. This disease should be treated the same as if in a person. Dent, at my request, furnishes the following article on this disease: "There* has been considerable discussion over this disease, which is so alarming in the human family. While some veterinarians hold that this disease does not exist in dogs, others contend as religiously that it does. "There are cases on record where a dog has contracted the disease from eating the food that had previously been placed before an affected child, and it is reasonable to presume that the disease is communicable from man to dog, and vice versa, when we consider the intimate terms under which they exist. "The cause of this disease in the dog, as in man, is a specific germ which attacks the throat, or nose, or both and extends from them down into the wind pipe. "Symptoms. — Difficulty in swallowing, more or less difficulty in breath- ing, chills, fever, marked debility and exhaustion. "Treatment. — The slightest suspicion of this disease calls for isolation, increased attention to sanitation, careful disinfection, and the attenton of a skillful veterinarian, who should use antitoxin exactly as used in human practice. Feed easily digested food, and as the animal passes the critical period and approaches convalescene, use a good tonic condition pill, any of thoso advertised in this book." 62 DISEASES Deafness. — A very considerable number of dogs suffer from deafness. In many the disease is congenital, but I do not know that it is hereditary; and I am quite at a loss to explain why congenital deafness is so much oftener seen in white dogs, or those with a preponderance of white, than in those of any other color. Bulldogs, bull terriers and white English terriers seem to be peculiarly liable to this defect. Deafness is also fre- quently caused by accumulations of wax and this can be removed by syring- ing the ear daily with 1 part of spirits of wine and 20 parts of warm water, afterwards drying the ear thoroughly, by means of a piece of wool rolled upon a probe or pointed piece of stick. Several fresh pieces of wool will be necessary. Canker is also a fruitful cause of deafness. I know of no treatment for congenital deafness likely to be of any use except when it is caused by a morbid growth capable of being removed. Among other causes producing deafness, blows may be mentioned; also lugging at the ear — a most brutal mode of punishment often resorted to by keepers and those having the care of sporting field dogs — and the lodg- ment of water in the ear cavity. In the latter case, pouring in a little pure oil of sweet almonds may give relief; and in the other cases the treatment recommended for internal canker may be beneficially followed with, in addition, the application of a blister behind the ears. Whilst the dog is under treatment, cooling, aperient medicine should be given, and a light diet with green vegetables adopted. You will find that dogs born deaf, like a deaf and dumb person, have their other senses quickened, and the dog will be remarkably sharp at interpreting signs given by the master, who should adopt a system of signs and keep to them. If you own a deaf dog, you should have an enclosed yard for him so no danger of his getting out on the street and hurt or killed by a passing wagon or street car — and remember, if you have him out for a walk, that he is deaf, so that no harm befalls him; you do the watching out in this case. Deafness does not transmit — simply happens — so that a deaf bitch will be just as good to use for breeding purposes. ■ Epilepsy. — Dogs are peculiarly liable to this trouble. The symptoms are sudden loss of sensation, a violent convulsive action of the muscles, both of the body and limbs, champing of the jaws and emission of froth from the mouth, the tongue may get cut by the involuntary action of the jaw and being tinged with blood adds to the fears of those ignorant of the disease, and from this unfounded alarm the dog may be supposed to be mad (?) and the poor fellow killed. See treatment under head of Epileptic Fits. Eye, Diseases of the Dogs are subject to all eye troubles that hu- mans are, and perhaps more so. Eye troubles I have had great success in treating, and when I see them appear in a dog I am not at all worried. They must be cared for at once, however. Accidents to the eye are not uncommon, as from scratches by a cat, injuries from - a blow, or in fighting. In such cases the first thing to do is to bathe it with warm water for from fifteen to thirty minutes, this to reduce the swelling and inflamma- tion which follows. If the injury is great, a veterinarian had best be called DISEASES 63 in but otherwise Eberhart's Eye Lotion, "No 1" or "No. 2," can be used three or four times daily with good results, just a few drops: Eberhart's Eye Lotion — No. 1. Cocaine 10 grains Sulphate of zinc 10 grains Rose water, imported 2 ounces Now, as to the above, this is the one I had in First Edition of this book, only there I had in it 38 grains of cocaine, instead of 10 grains, as in this. Under the old formula I used it "for years, and with it I saved the sight of hundreds of- dogs. A lady living near New York had a Blenheim spaniel that was nearly blind from diseased eyes. She took it to a celebrated occulist in New York, who pronounced it a hopeless case, telling her that- the dog would go totally blind, and very soon. She wrote me and I sent her this prescription, and in a couple of weeks her dog's eyes were as sound and well as any dog's eyes ever were. The dog's eyes were apparently nearly dropping out of its head, and looked as if you could knock them off with your finger, when she took him to this eye doctor. When she, after the cure, showed the dog to the doctor he could hardly believe it was the same dog, and said: "Well, it's simply wonderful." Now here is Eberhart's Eye Lotion "No. 2." Acid boracic 10 grains Cocaine 9 grains Sulphate of zinc ". 2 grains Aqua camphor 1 tablespoonful Aqua rosa 1 tablespoonful Drop in eye, a few drops, two or three times daily. I now consider "No. 2" a better one than "No. 1," for most all eye troubles, and have used it for several years instead of "No. 1." It can never do any harm, but always benefit. This one, due to the camphor water in it, will not keep well for over a few weeks or so, and therefore should this be remembered and not used when having stood too long. Either should be always tightly corked, and a glass stoppered bottle is much the best. Only get half the prescription filled at a time, probably enough for the case, and saves extra expense. If any trouble in getting it, I can sent it by mail for sixty cents. AVhenever I find any trouble in any of my. dogs eyes I at once use the No. 2, even in case of a slight cold caught and which had settled into the eye, as shown by inflammation, mattery or watery discharge, or even only an apparent weakness or blinking when dog was exposed to a strong light. In such cases, bathing the eyes first, with a Boracic Acid solution, (how 64 DISEASES to make is given under that heading), see index, just a couple drops twice a day, is required. Pugs, toy spaniels and all dogs with prominent or "pop eyes," as they are termed, are greatly troubled with their eyes, and here is where I found out the merits of my own eye remedies. You may discover some morning the eye of your dog covered with a blue film, this is so common in pop eyed dogs that I named it "blue eye" for short. Very rapidly this eye, the ball, will enlarge, and if not promptly treated will assume proportions that are apparently startling, and in a few days if not taken care of, the ball of the eye would bulge out so much that it would seem as if it would drop out of its head. Don't be alarmed, for my lotion "No. 2" will take care of this, will cure the eye, which in due time will be sound as ever, the same as it was before this trouble appeared, and the sight saved, as perfect as ever. No. 2 will never fail to cure ulceration and perforation of the ball of the eye if used in time. In some cases a white spot or speck will remain, but the sight is all right, and to remove this spot use the following: Eye Salve. Vaseline 1 ounce Yellow oxide of mercury 2 grains Mix, use daily, putting inside the eye a portion about the size of a pea, then closing the eye rub it gently. This prescription should be thoroughly and carefully mixed by your druggist. This is very im- portant - In other cases the "No. 2" has done all the curing, and there was no white spot left. Due to the present stringent laws in many states as to narcotics, it will be necessary to have your doctor write this prescription because of the cocaine in it. Where I 'discovered" this "No. 2" was in the case of a Pug dog I had bought, that when I received her from the express company, had gotten this on her long trip, and I at once took her to my own eye doctor, Dr. Robert C. Heflebower, (now one of the greatest, if not the greatest, eye specialist in the .world, today. My bill with him for this dog was eighteen dollars), and now with "No. 2" it can be cured for less than a dollar. I consider this "No. 2" worth more than twenty times the cost of a copy of this book. Dogs are subject to affections of the eye in more or less degree ac- cording to their breed and uses. Hunting dogs are naturally, owing to the nature of their work, more subject than other dogs to receive injuries from thorns, dust and dirt and other foreign matter. This will be followed by more or less inflammation of the mucous membrane lining the eye- lids, which is attended by a watery discharge at first and assuming a more purulent condition as the trouble increases. It is well known that a small particle of grit may remain under an eyelid in spite of fomentations, and should the eye be examined without discovery of the source of trouble, very often an application of pure olive oil with a camel's hair brush to the underpart of the eyelid Avill often DISEASES G5 succeed in carrying off the irritant, which may be too small to discern. This, however, is usually to be considered merely a preliminary step, and my Eye Lotion No. 2 should be then used to remove the inflammation thus caused. If your dog brings about a swollen or inflamed condition of the eyelids through a chance scratch of the claws in rubbing their face, use my Eye Lotion No. 2, after having first bathed the parts with warm water. Different form of indigestion may be associated with irritation of the mucous membranes throughout, and the eyes will suffer in common with the other parts. Rheumatism is also one of the maladies which are at- tended with inflammation, more or less pronounced, of the eyes, with the eyeball itself and the lids participating in the disorder. It must, therefore, be obvious that the common expression, "a discharge from the«eyes," may refer to a variety of morbid conditions which are not to be counteracted by an application of a lotion to the eye. Perhaps a safe guide for the tyro in medicine may be found in the duration of the discharge. In any case of simple irritation from the presence of dirt or grit it may be fairly ex- pected that the symptoms will cease very quickly upon the application of simple remedies, that is to say after it has been clearly ascertained that there is no offending body adherent to the underneath part of the eyelid. The continuance of the discharge week after week, or even month after month, may certainly be taken to mean that something more than ordinary irritation of a simple kind is present, and under such circumstances the chances are that the common eye water, for example, three or four grains of boracic acid in an ounce of rose water, for example, three or four grains of possibly do some harm by checking the discharge, which is really critical in its character. The proper course in such cases would be to consult an expert in diseases of the dog, who will most probably be able to find some constitutional cause to account for what has been looked upon as a local disorder. Eye, Amaurosis of the. — This is a loss of sight, partial or entire, arising from one of several causes; the optic nerve is palsied, which may have arisen from a blow near the eye. Exhaustion from suckling will produce amaurosis and bitches sometimes exhibit it during gestation; excess of light is also a cause. The eye is unnaturally clear and glittering, the pupil ex- panded and fixed, and that the dog is partially or entirely blind is seen by his stepping high and with needless care when nothing is in his way and running against things that are. If when you feint a blow the eye does not move, total blindness may be assumed. Eberhart's Eye Lotion No. 2 (See Opthalmia) may do a lot of good if used at once, as I have never found any case of eye trouble that it did not help or cure. This eye lotion should not be kept on hand very long, how- ever, as the camphor water in it destroys its virtues after a time. If you find the trouble due to a deranged nervous system, 3 to 10 drops of tincture of nux vomica in a little water, twice daily after food, is useful. Eyeball, Protrusion of. — It sometimes occures in fighting that the eye- ball is forced out of its socket, and the lid, contracting, prevents its return. I cannot recommend the amateur to attempt to return the eyeball to its 6 6 DISEASES place, but the veterinary surgeon should be sent for, and in the meantime a small stream of lukewarm water should be kept running onto the part to keep the muscles relaxed as much as possible, to facilitate the necessary operations in returning the eyeball to its place. Eyes, Watery or Weeping. — This trouble seems to be inherited by some breeds of dogs, such as Italian greyhounds, Blenheim spaniels, Mal- tese terriers and white Toy poodles. In these cases a strong astringent will do harm and induce inflammation. Bathing with an infusion of green tea will have a good effect, and the use of the following simple eye lotion will do much good. I use it for any ordinary inflammation due to a cold. Take 2 grams of ordinary rochelle salts to 2 ounces of rose water and drop in eyes twice a day. Being a cheap remedy, I also bathe the eyes with it instead of water, a six ounce mixture only costing a dime of any reasonable druggist. This weakness may arise from a slight inflammation. A purge if the dog is gross and fat, and you can use the following Lotion for Weak Eyes: Sulphate of zinc '. 12 grains Laudanum % ounce Distilled water 6 ounces Eyelids, Inversion of the Lower Lid of This causes serious trouble, opthalmia, etc. An operation is the only means of cure, which should be performed by a skilled veterinarian, as in unskilled hands serious mischief would arise. A piece of skin is removed below the eye, and a small muscle which is responsible for the turning in of the eye, is severed. The wound should not be sutured, but allowed to heal under a. scab, which helps to pull the eyelid outward and slightly downward, relieving the condition naturally. This is not very common in many breeds, but in some breeds that have a small, deep set-in eye,, as Chow Chows, some Terriers, it is often found. If an operation is decided upon, remember the danger of chloroform if it be a Chow Chow. I have a Chow that has had this trouble in both eyes, for two years that I showed and made a champion of during this time. I had my own eye specialist come to my kennels prepared to perforin the operation, and after a look at the dog and his eyes, said to me: "I am afraid if I give this dog chloroform, that it will mean a dead dog," so the doctor did not operate. He told me, however, to slip the hairs off of the eyelid, and paint with colodion every few days, under the eyes across the lid, about a quarter of an inch wide; also, to wash away the whitish discharge morning and night, and then to drop in the eyes a few drops of the following: Hydrastes 2 drams Camphor water G drams Which treatment I am keeping up yet, the result being that the dog's sight is as keen and perfect as ever, and bids fair to continue so. The DISEASES 67 colodion dries quickly, and then after dry, I put a second coat on top of the first one. * Eye Iritis, or Inflammation of the Iris, is sometimes seen in dogs. The iris being the membrane that gives the color to the eye, in the center of which is the pupil. Deep-seated inflammation is usually the cause, or by direct violence. Symptoms are contraction of the pupil, which does not have the same power as usual of contracting and dilating to regulate the amount of light to be admitted; tears flow over lid, light is avoided, and the eye is bloodshot. If the inflammation increases and is prolonged, the usual termination would be suppuration (formation of matter), and the loss of sight. First place the dog in a darkened kennel or room, apply hot fomentations continuously to the eye, and introduce sulphate of atropine into the organ. Discs of sulphate of atropine you can get at your druggist's, with instructions how to use. Eyelashes, Turned in. — This occurs occasionally, the eyelash may grow across the pupil, interfering with the dog's comfort and vision. In ordi- nary cases simply clipping with the scissors will do, but sometimes excision and cauterization of the part is necessary. Either of my Eye Lotions to be used if inflammation is present. Haw, Enlargement of. — The haw, or third eyelid, as it is sometimes called, is a fold of membrane situated at the inner corner of the eye, capable of expansion, and is used to sweep across the globe of the eye to cleanse it from flies, dirt or other foreign bodies that have blown in. This membrane, from constitutional causes, from blows or irritation from extraneous matter lodged in the eye, becomes inflamed and enlarged, which interferes with the sight, preventing the eyelids from closing. My Eye Lotion No. 2 would do good here also, the treatment being astringent lotions, lunar caustic, or cutting off the excrescent growth, according to the circumstances of the case. Eye, Opthalmia of the — What is called the conjunctiva is the mucous membrane that lines the inner surface of the eyelids, and as its name imports, joints these with the eyeball, and opthalmia is an inflammation of this mucous membrane. This is a disease unfortunately common in dogs; it varies greatly in severity, and in some cases, when arising from constitutional causes, becomes chronic. Sporting dogs have been said to be more liable to it than other breeds, but I do not think so, and I believe the idea originated from the fact that these have generally been more ex- posed to circumstances exciting it than other breeds. From my own exper- ience, I am inclined to think it is more prevalent in pugs and other pets overfed, and consequently liable to frequent derangement of the digestive organs. Anything that will set up local irritation, as the intrusion of dust, flies, etc., or the scratch of a cat, or a blow, exposure to sudden and extreme changes of temperature- — as plunging into or being thrown into cold water when heated — and excessive exertion is occasionally a cause, but the most common sources are the vapors of foul kennels or hot stables, and de- G8 DISEASES rangement of the digestive organs; an inverted eyelash may occasion it. Opthalmia is very often an accompaniment of distemper. There, is one form of disease which is attended with considerable discharge from the eyes undoubtedly possessing contagious qualities. This affection is known as contagious optbalmia. Perhaps the most marked illustration of this va- riety of the affection in the dog is that which is associated with distemper, and it may be noted here that by the term opthalmia is meant the disease which implicates the eyeball itself. The symptoms are an intolerance of light and a watery discharge, and on the eyelids being opened and examined there is seen to be conges- tion of the lining membrane, and across the cornea, or front clear portion of the eye, there are red streaks, and ulceration soon follows, and a white film abscures the eye and interferes with the sight. More or less opacity of the cornea is one of the symptoms of opthalmia either of the simple and contagious variety, and, in the case of the dog affected with the ophthalmia of distemper, the indications are of a most marked character. The conjunctival membrane is highly injected and reddened, the cornea becomes opaque early in the disease and very fre- quently a small spot of ulceration appears in the center of it, which rapidly extends, and in many cases penetrates the cornea, completely allowing the fluid in the anterior chamber of the eye to escape. A .profuse dis- charge of a purulent character continues during the whole course of the disease, and one of the annoying features of the complaint is the glueing together of the eyelids, which can only be separated by very careful and continued fomentations of warm water or, what is better, warm milk. When treating, the cause should be first sought for, and if it is some foreign irritating body, or an eyelash growing in a wrong direction, these should be removed. A mild dose of cooling aperient medicine should be given, and the eye should be well and frequently bathed with a decoction of poppy heads; and afterward, if the inflammation is considerable, the following lotion may be used several times a day with advantage: Eye Lotion. — Extract of belladonna, half a dram, rose water, four ounces;" wine of opium, two drams — mixed. Eye, Cataract of the — This is an opacity of the eyeball, a whitish, opaque spot, which gradually enlarges and has generally ended in blind- ness. It is supposed to be incurable by our best authorities, generally occurring in aged dogs — these are evidences of failing health and probable breaking up of the system. It frequently follows ophtalmia, but might be the result of inflammation or a wound, or blow. My Eye Lotion No. 2 will do some good even in such cases. Ear Canker, Internal. — There are two forms of this disease, internal and external, the latter generally the result of the former. I will first prescribe for internal. Canker is a term generally applied to different obstinate, corroding, or heating humors, horses having it in the feet, sheep having "foot rot;" but unless the irritation is caused in the foot of the dog, sometimes by hard running on rough ground, causing canker- DISEASES 69 ous sores, and which should be treated the same as internal ear canker, it is not found in dogs except in the ear. Causes. — First of all, and most common, is some injury, such as blows on the ear or pulling the ears, a habit some people have as a method of correction, and one that is most pernicious. Others, of which probably the principal one is getting the cars full of water in diving, swimming or retrieving from water, followed by lack of exercise; too rich food, dirty, damp kennel to sleep in, and excess of fat, as it is often found in fat, lazy dogs. Canker may be the result of exposure to cold, over-feeding, the pres ence of insects; foreign bodies, or an accumulation of wax in the ear, are also fertile causes, while the most common is the washing of dogs with coarse alkaline soaps which are totally unfit for the sensitive skin of the dog. The soap, during the washing, gains access to the ear, setting up dangerous inflammation. Hugh Dalziel says: "Is there not another and frequent cause — whether those sportsmen (?) do not often produce it who, instead of correcting their dogs by the legitimate means of the voice and the whip, resort to another method much to be condemned. 'Lugging' a dog is as cruel as kicking him, neither is a fit mode of punishment and the former very likely to produce canker." Ear canker is one of the nuisances of dog keeping, and when neg- lected is a most obstinate complaint. The experienced dogman is always on the alert, but the novice may not detect the trouble until the ear discharges an acrid secretion. The careful kennelman will examine his dogs' ears as a part of the daily grooming. Internal Canker is an inflammation of the lining membrane of the passage to the ear, which if neglected turns into ulceration and suppuration, and when of long standing a blackish, offensive discharge takes place, accumulating in the air passage, and the interior of the ear will be found red and inflamed. When you notice the following symptoms begin at once to treat him for it, the sooner the better, to save your dog pain and yourself trouble: The dog thus suffering will be observed frequently scratching his ear with his paw, holding his head on one side, giving it a violent shake, as though to empty something out, the pain and irritation, causing him, to thus shake his head, whereby the flaps of the y ear get bruised, ulcerations form, the tips become sore, the inflammation in the interior lining mem- brane extends to the outside and from the shaking and scratching is formed external canker. When a dog shakes his head, scratches his ear with his paw, and holds his head to one side, it is high time to investigate and apply remedies. The acrid discharges, if not cleared away will lead to irritation of the flap of the ear, the flap swells and looks angry, often breaking out in sores at the tips and edges. This is external canker. The peculiarly of- fensive odor of the ear passage is a sure sign of internal canker. Treatment. — Wash out the ear with warm water and soapsuds, use either Castile or Eberhart's Dog Soap; rinse with clean warm, water and 70 DISEASES peroxyde of hydrogen, one part of peroxyde to four parts of water by measure. Dry out the ear with absorbent cotton swabs made by rolling cotton loosely on a skewer or clean piece of stick. Dry thoroughly. The ear is now ready for treatment, and here is my remedy which has never failed to cure the most obstinate cases., even of long standing, and I give this as having proved to be an infallible cure. I cured a valuable poodle that had a bad case in both ears for a year; three veterinarians having treated the dog and failed to cure him. The dog was then shipped to my kennels and I sent him back in a few weeks entirely cured. This was the worst case I ever saw or handled, and I cured him with the prescription herewith given: Iodine 16 grains Iodide of potassium 32 grains Mix these two first in a tablespoonful of water and then add one pint of pure cider vinegar. Keep in bottle corked up. After ear has been cleaned out and dried as directed, take your dog and lay his head on your knee and pour in or inject with a rubber syringe if he will hold still, about a tablespoonful of the remedy into the ear and gently work or knead it in for a few minutes. Do this once a day only until the ear gets better, and then every other day is often enough. You can look for a cure of ordinary cases in a week or less if treatment was begun promptly at first signs, neglected cases requiring more time. Here are several other good remedies: Creolin 30 grains Sulphate of zinc , , 16 grains Water 8 ounces This one should be injected twice daily after cleansing the ear same as |or the first remedy given. This one is to be .used three times a day. Cleanse the ear with in- jections of equal parts of peroxyde of hydrogen and water three timefe a day, then injeet two t'easpoonfuls of the following: Sulphate of zinc one dram, sugar of lead two drams, glycerine two ounces, water six ounces. And this one to be used twice a day: Sulphate of zinc "ten grains, acetate of lead thirty grains, credlin one-half ounce, glycerine three ounces, water to make eight ounces; inject a tablespoonful into the ear twice a day. The discharge from the ear will cause sores on the inside of flap, so when injecting the medicine wash these sores with the same. My iodine prescription is especially good for these sore spots. Injecting with rubber syringe is always best, if your dog will hold quiet and not resist treatment, and in his struggling injurs the ear from the syringe. If you can't con- trol and keep him quiet, then pouring it in will do, the main objection being DISEASES 71 medicine wasted. I find very little trouble in giving any dog medicine for I go at him easy and gently, talking to him and thus giving him to understand that his doctor is his friend. There are few dogs that you cannot talk to and reason with, kind treatment very soon winning their confidence. You can, of course, tell when ear is cured as the discharge and offensive smell ceases, ear looks healthy and dog has stopped scratching and shaking his head. It cannot 'be too firmly insisted upon that, whenever a dog is suffer- ing from ear canker or from any eruption or skin disease, it is quite neces- sary to give a good internal medicine as it is to apply a suitable external lotion. The only blood medicine known to many dog fanciers is sulphur. A new prescription, therefore, may not be out of place here. The follow- ing may be made up into pills, and will prove an excellent all-round tonic and blood purifier. Take of: Sulphate of iron (dried) 12 grains Sulphate of quinine 6 grains Bicarbonate of soda (dried) 24 grains Liquorice Root Powder and Extract of Gentian — Sufficient of each to form a suitable mass. Divide the above Into twelve pills, one of which morning and night will do for a dog of 20 lbs. More or less in proportion for other dogs. Or Dent's or Clayton's Blood Purifying Pills are also both good to use, in old or very bad cases. This cannot be done with one box perhaps, any more than you could cure yourself with a single bottle of spring medi- cine if your blood was out of order, so keep up treatment until desired result has been accomplished. Ear Canker, External. — This generally follows or appears in connec- tion with internal canker, due to the poisonous discharge from ear, caus- ing sores on the flap or edges of ear. The tears and scratches from briars and thorns in working hunting dogs in close coverts, if not given attention, may also set up external caker. Exteral canker is a sore or sores much of the nature of a cancer, a sore appearing on the outside or inside of the ear which eats a hole through to the other side if- not arrested. It is much harder t© cure than internal canker. It often exists as a se- quence of inflammation, ulceration, or suppuration of the internal passage. External canker often starts, especially- in hounds and pointers, or any long-eared dogs, with a small sore that gradually eats into the flap until it makes a slit in the ear that continues to grow deeper, and will be per- haps a quarter inch wide. This will be scabbed over on edges of the slit with a thin scab, bleeding a good deal, due to dog c'ontin»allv shaking his head,- Make a hood or cap of a piece of canvas of sufficient length to reach around the dog's head, having two pieces of tape running through a hem at each side lengthwise, by which you can draw the cap tight enough around the dogs' neck behind tho ears, and aga'n, just above the eyes, tying them underneath. This hood or cap prevents dog from irritating the ears by flapping them. 72 DISEASES Treatment. — First wash and dry the sores nicely, then touch the sore edges twice a day with following solution: Sulphate of copper one dram to an ounce of water. Here are several other remedies: Yellow oxide of mercury 15 grains to one ounce of simple ointment. Mix, and use once a day to sores after having first cleaned them. Another is, if any of the sores look "angry" scrape with a knife a little blue stone into fine powder and dust the ear with it; or, after bathing and drying nicely touch them with a point of lunar caustic. As soon as you have cauterized the sores apply a damp sponge or cloth. Quoting Hugh Dalziel: — "There are other cases where the whole of the external ear becomes swollen and tender, the flap thickened and filled with fluid between the skin and the cartilage or gristle; in such cases the best plan is, after bathing the ears well, to cut them with a lancet, press out the bloody matter, and, having again well washed and softly dried the ears, let them be touched with the following: Lead Liniment. Goulard's extract of lead 1 ounce Glycerine and carbolic acid % ounce Finest olive oil 4 y 2 ounces "Mix the two first named, and add the oil gently, rubbing together in a mortar. Shake bottle well before using. In getting the gly- cerine and carbolic acid from your druggist, I mean it to be one part pure carbolic acid in five parts. "There is also a mangy affection of the ear which might be confounded with external canker; in such cases the edges of the ear become dry, hot and scaly, and hair come out, but this is not ear canker and should be treated as mange with Eberhart's Skin Cure, applying it twice daily, rub- bing it on until ear softens up and gently scraping off the hair with the fingers." Enlarged Joints — All large joints are not diseased. In selecting a pup from a litter the big jointed ones ore to be preferred. Enlarged joints, from the want of the hard, earthy materials in the bone, which makes them yielding, so that they cannot support the weight of the body, consequently giving away, producing deformity, are, however, often met with, caused generally by bad food, lack of good water, fresh air and sunshine. (See Rickets.) Ear, Polypus in the — This will occur sometimes in the lining mem- brane of the external meatus. Their removal should be left to the vet- erinary surgeon. Ear, Wax Hardening in the Warm water injections are useful and afterward the ear should be carefully dried; or better yet, glycerine first put in hot water and when cool enough to use, inject into dog's ear. His DISEASES 73 head laid flat on one side. Or, a little oil of almonds poured into the caviy is good. Either should be kept up daily until the wax is softened. Another good thing is one part spirits of wine to twenty parts of lukewarm water. Dry afterward with cotton-wool rolled around a probe or piece of pointed stick. Enteritis — (See Bowels, Inflammation of.) Erythema. — A superficial inflammation of the skin. Dogs occasionally have it; not often a serious matter, though at times quite obstinate. The skin peels, leaving the part tender and sore. The mouth is often the seat of the disease, and the skin finally becomes wrinkled. Administer a purga- tive and bathe the parts with a saturated solution of boracic acid lotion (non-poisonous). Eczema. — This is not contagious, and in this respect, differs from mange, which is. It is a constitutional trouble and no external application alone will ever cure it, and you simpy waste time and medicine giving ex- ternal treatment alone,, for to insure a cure of this disease, internal and external treatment both are required. Neither must you expect to cure it up in a short time, which you ran do in mange, for eczema requires time and patience on your part — and the proper treatment. The blood must he purified, and you know that if you yourself were "taking a spring medicine for a general cleaning out and getting your blood in the right condition you would not expect to do it on one single bottle of Dr. Somebody's Sarsa- parilla. Eczema requires a proper course of medicine, but can be cured. In this disease. the hair sacks or follicles are the "principal seat of the dis3ase, becoming inflamed, and if the animal is a white one the hair assumes a. rusty or reddish color at the roots. The inside of the thighs, back of the forelegs, Hie elbows and belly art the parts first affected. Prompt means must be taken at this tinr? to check it up or inflammation increases rapidly, and the entire skin and subcutaneous tissues will be involved, the hair drops out from the affected follicle, purulent matter exudes and pustules form, which break open, the matter from them running together and form- ing scabs, which crack open and bleed, and the animal has become a pitiful and loathsome object, emitting a very disagreeable odor. In my forty years' experience in handling dogs I have found at least fifty cases of eczema to one of mange. Any skin trouble appearing on a dog the first conclusion of so many is that it is mange, and here is where the mistake often comes in. Eczema is curable in a dog the same as in a human, but patience and regular, persistent treatment must be expected to be given the patient. ' In every article on eczema given herein Eberhart's Skin Cure will do the work externally, and nothing more certain to use for the external part of the treatment, in lieu of any others advised in either of the articles. It is also safe and non-poisonous. It will require a month or even two or three months' treatment to effect a cure in eczema, but if you follow treatment, and keep it up faithfully, you 74 DISEASES will surely be rewarded for your trouble by again seeing your dog as lie should be — in his usual good health and condition. A couple years ago I found out something new to use internally, for the blood, in connection with my skin remedy,, externally. A pure white sulphur, only obtainable of a homeopathic druggist, and is called — Sulphur 12X. I succeeded in curing up several cases of chronic eczema that I had failed with before. One was a Chow Chow, a long-coated dog, that was almost bare of hair, using the skin remedy once a day, well rubbed in with the hands, and giving him morning and night, mixed in his food, (as it is tasteless), as much as would hold on a silver dime. Sometimes I gave it dry, by opening mouth and dropping it well back on his tongue, mornings, when his breakfast was dry Spratt's dog cakes. This dogs coat came out full, this part mostly due to my skin remedy, which is a hair grower. If no homeopathic druggist in your town, your druggist can order it for you, or, you can get it from me. I consider this valuable treatment for eczema, as so far, it has not failed to cure. If your dog has skin trouble, find out whether it is eczema, or one of the several kinds of mange, see "Mange",. also. The following, on eczema, written by Dr. F. Holmes Brown, is an able article on this subject: "Eczema in the dog manifests many of the same signs and symptoms of the same disease found in man. No disease in the whole range of skin diseases is so difficult to treat properly. In eczema in the dog it is especially important that one first of all find out what is causing the disease, then seek to remove it. In that way only can we hope for success. "Eczema is an acute or chronic catarrhal inflammatory disease of the skin. In the dog it manifests itself in two separate and distinct forms; first, the blotch or nervous or neurotic form, and second, the red mange or irri- tative form. The lesions in this disease vary according to the acting cause, the seat of the disease and the care given the dog. The blotch or neurotic form attaclfs the skin on the head and along the back. This form is similar to the "milk crust" found in children, and li due to much the same causes. The red mange is that form in which the skin is generally red, but it is more visible under the legs, on the back and abdomen. "The usual form of eruption in canine eczema cinsists of a large num- ber of small water pimples or vesicles frequently covering a large extent of skin. These are formed close together, forming quite large water blis- ters. When opened these look cellular in structure from the many small pimples of which they are composed. They terminate either by absorption or rupture. They come in crops and remain for varying periods of time. All dogs are liable to attacks of this disease. Eczema becomes chronic after repeated attacks. When we have a subdued form, there is a greater tendency to crusting, and in severe cases to the formation of pus. In the blotch, lack of exercise, constipation, over-feeding, injurious foods and indigestion are the main causes. In the red mange form, lack of assimila- tion, rheumatism, gout, and external irritation, as lice and ticks act as causes. In both of these forms, lack of exercise is one of the most impor- tant causes. This results in an over-heated blood surcharged with the partly assimilated food, and in nature seek3 to get rid of this excess of effete material by the skin. DISEASES 75f "This is carried off by the exudation. This is a law of nature, when the ordinary channels are clogged, to try and excrete these substances through the skin. This is particularly so in cases due to rheumatism, where nature seeks to rid the system of the excess of uric acid and urates. These substances act as direct irritants to the skin, and set up a catarrhal inflam- mation. Washing dogs affected with eczema is to be avoided, as much as possible, as both water and soap act as a direct irritant to the already inflamed skin. The sulphate of magnesia or soda is in the beginning of treatment of great value. When there is much constitutional disturbance, opium and calomel in grain closes are indicated. Benzoated oxide of zinc ointment in the milder forms is of great benefit. Tincture of arnica, 15 to 20 grains to the ounce, of an oily lotion is of value. Lotions contain- ing salol or salicylic acid from five to thirty grains to the ounce, resorcin in the same proportion. Dusting powders composed of acetanilid, salol, salicylic acid, or resorcin with sterate of zinc as a base, is of value. When disease is due to debility, mineral tonics and cod liver oil should be given. When the disease becomes chronic, stronger remedies must be used; oint- ments containing juniper tar, green soap and sulphur are of value. The ointment of the nitrate and ammoniate of mercury are much used. In cases where the skin is especially sensitive, silver nitrate, 1 grain to the ounce of water will often effect a cure. In the chronic cases, especially, iron, arsenic, calomel and quinine are to be used. The animal, while under- going treatment, should be kept clean, and give plenty of exercise. An eruption, resembling eczema, may be induced by large doses of mercury. The skin becomes red and swollen, then forms large scales and hardens. This eruption is generally limited to the limbs and scrotum. Some of the symptoms are salivation, loss of appetite, eyelids closed, dullness, offensive odor from the skin, and rarely, death." I now give you Dent's article on Eczema, written expressly for thia book: "In medical nomenclature, eczema is a very comprehensive term. It is applied to all diseases of the skin (except true mange or dog itch), and on account of the irritation set up during an attack of mange, it is generally complicated with eczema, which remains to annoy the dog and his owner long after the mange mites are destroyed. "Dogs are particularly subject to skin diseases, that are the bane alike of the breeder keeping a large number of dogs in kennels, or the single house pet. While true dog itch is common enough, ninety per cent of all skin diseases are eczema. "There is a close relation between the skin of the dog and his digestive , organs, and a deranged stomach will quickly find expression through an eruption of the skin; any poverty or plethoric condition of the blood will also be expressed in the same way. If there is any defect or unhealthy condition of the digestive tract, and it is called upon to digest unsuitable food, it is only a question of time before poisons are introduced into the blood that will produce inflammation and eruptions of the skin. Strictly speaking, eczema is an inflammation of the skin due to the causes above mentioned, and numerous others such as old, dirty, damp bedding, lack of exercise, over-feeding, starvation, irritation from insects, lice, fleas or from ?6 DISEASES true mange. In most cases it can be ascribed to a disordered condition of the blood and general system. "Eczema assumes a variety of forms. In one very common form there is first a redness of the entire skin with a dry scaly dandruff that flakes off. In another form there is an eruption of small distinct pimples or papules that do not always break but can be easily felt, like shot under the skin. In another form there is a formation of scurvy crusts of a yel- lowish white color that smells like mice, and underneath this crust are small, cup-shaped ulcers. "Follicular mange, or red mange, is due to a sort of vegetable fungoid mite that lives at the base 'of the hair and around the sebaceus gland. It turns the skin a sort of brownish red, kills the hair root, and is most commonly found along the back near the root of the tail. "In the commonest form of eczema. there will first be noticed a patch on some part of the dog's body that is inflamed or covered with pimples. These pimples increase in size and become a vesicle filled with a clear tur- bulent or purulent fluid. This sore breaks, the fluid escapes, runs over the skin which it irritates, and dries into scabs which mat the hair together. The inflammation affects the hair follicle, the hair drops out leaving bare spots, and there is a constant exudate of matter, which spreads and forms more hare spots. The skin becomes ulcerated or thickened and wrinkled. The dog is tormented by the intolerable itching past all point of endur- ance, scratches himself until he bleeds, cannot sleep or eat, gets no rest and becomes a mere wreck of his former self. "Treatment. — As previously stated, eczema and inflammation of the skin are largely due to constitutional causes, and there is no specific treat- ment or radical cure for all cases, and the owner must exercise his power of judgment and reason, and possibly try two or three different preparations before effecting a cure. "The following course must be pursued. First make a change in the animal's diet if he is being fed on grains and vegetables with little or no meat, give him an increased amount of meat both lean and raw, with little or no bread or vegetables, and vice versa. If the dog is fat and plethoric, generally prosperous, and inclined to be constipated, give him a good laxa- tive pill every night and fast for twenty-four hours. If he is thin and un- thrifty give cod liver oil emulson with from two to five grains of the sulphate or iron of Sergeant's Iron and Arsenic Pills. The fat plethoric dog should have a blood purifying and cooling pill twice a day for some time. Clayton's Blood Cooling Pill is very good, or the following prescrip- tion: Flower of sulphur 2 ounces Cream of tartar 3 ounces Bromide of potassium 3 drams Mix and divide into eighteen powders and give one in the morning. "The blood purifying and cooling pills mentioned are th» best thing to use, handy and easier to give. f DISEASES 77 "Besides the mange and eczema cures on the market the following are useful in cases where there is great irritation with little or no eruption: Plumbi acet % dram Soda bibarat 1 % drams Glycerin 2 ounces Aqua camphor , 8 ounces- Lanolin 4 ounces Lard 4 ounces Salicylic acid 1 ounce Boracic acid 1 ounce Apply once a day and wash every week and repeat. Another is: Carbolized glycerin 1 ounce. Laudanum 2 ounces Carbonate of potash 2 drams Apply all over, twice a day, wash twice a week. Another is: Boracic acid 1 ounce Salicyclic acid 1 ounco Laudanum 1 ounce Whale oil 14 ounces Apply all over twice a day and wash once a week with Eberhart's Soap." "The Kennelman" has this to say of Eczema, published in American Stock-Keeper: "Obstinate cases of eczema are most distressingly aggravating to the kennel owner. In a majority of instances this condition arises from the continued use of starchy foods. When I he symptoms appear — pustulous formations at the roots af the hair, after a preliminary redness of the skin and wet oozy sores that appear to the size of a half dollar in a night, the diet should be attended to. Lean, raw meat must be fed almost ex- clusively. Then the blood must be purified, and exercise given freely. A handy preparation that will be found excellent as a general cleanser and preventive is a mixture of equal parts (not weights) of Epsom salts, cream of tartar and sulphur lac; a pinch every morning, in quantity according to the size of the dog, dropped on the tongue for a week will do good. It is a remedial agent that is useful at any time. In bad chronic cases this mixture will do well — one drop of fluid extract of colchicum and five grains of sulphate of soda, three times daily in a capsule; feed raw beef and no cereal food. Apply to the sores equal parts of oil of tar and alcohol, or Eberhart's Skin Cure. "Another good thing is the liver of sulphur one buys in pound tins n diseases (Sulph. Potass). Dissolve a teaspoonful in a quart of warm water and apply at once to the sores, in fact, the whole body should be covered with it. If a dip is required for several dogs make the solution of the above proportions; if too strong the hair will be burned off. This is a won- derfully good remedy for puppy rash that develops often after puppies leave the mother; and if the puppy licks itself all the better." Fatness, Excessive. — This should never exist in any dog and need not providing it has been fed properly and sufficiently exercised. It is a hard thing to do to reduce a dog, especially an old one, after it has been allowed to get into this condition. However, some dogs are predisposed to obesity, and to put on fat even when on a meagre diet; such being the case with a great many pugs and different species of spaniels. A certain amount of fat is not only a sign of health, but also desirable, as it is the store of fuel that nature lays up to meet future exigencies; but an excess of fat con- stitutes a morbid and diseased state of the body. A .common effect of excessive fat is to set up skin disease, with dis- charge therefrom, which is Nature's means of ridding the system of the superfluous matter. Or the fat accumulates round vital organs, interfering with the animal's respiration, making the breathing labored, wheezy, and asthamatical, painful to the sufferer, which blows and pants on the slightest extra exertion, and most distressing to the owner. In bitches not allowed to breed, fat accumulates round the kidneys and ovaries; the heart also becomes surrounded with fat, and what is called fatty infiltration or fatty degeneration ensues, which may cause sudden death. Causes. — It is caused by confinement, lack of exercise and an over abundance of food of too rich a quality of fat-producing material. Castrat- ing of dogs and spaying of bitches — and I don't believe it right to do either — will cause accumulations of adipose matter, as it takes from the dog one of the organs of secretion, and all dogs that refuse sexual connection will become obese. All dogs should be allowed Nature's privilege at least a few times during their lives. Treatment. — Give a brisk purgative two or three times a week and give two to three grains of the iodide of potash in water twice a day after feeding. Gradually decrease the allowance of food and feed only stale bread, dog biscuit or crackers, dry if they will eat them, if not moisten with a very little milk or thin soup; do not feed grease, fat, potatoes or sweets of any kind. As the food is decreased slowly increase the amount of exercise, and as the animal gradually comes into form omit the purga- tives and feed raw lean beef, chopped fine — gradually increasing the amount. Fleas. — These are familiar to every one, I mean the fleas that are found on dogs, and no description is really necessary. There are a number of good remedies. "Eberhart's Dog Soap" is the easiest and surest remedy for fleas of any- thing made and much less trouble to use. All your dog needs is a good shampoo with this soap swice, twenty-four hours apart. After applying it thoroughly all over the dog, not missing a spot, or you leave some fleas DISEASES 79 that will be heard from, then rinse the dog in lukewarm water and dry thoroughly with rough towels. There is, however, nothing — unless you would keep some preparation on the dog all the time in summer — that will keep fleas off of a dog in case he comes in contact with them again, as he may do if he meets another dog that has them, when your dog is certain to get a new supply. If all his bedding is not destroyed while being treated, or his sleeping box not thoroughly disinfected, he will again get more fleas. The best plan is to burn all the bedding he has used in his sleeping box, basket or kennel, and then scrub it out with some good dis- infectant, getting into the cracks and corners with Standard Disinfectant, (see advertisement of the Standard Disinfectant Co.)., which will do the work. Fleas breed every twenty-four hours, so that in using my soap you must give the second bath twenty-four hours later to destroy the young ones. Dogs which have dense, long coats are subjects of special delight to the fleas. The mouth of the flea is specially adapted for sucking; the wings are rudimentary, being represented by four minute scales. The lavse is a footless grub, which, in about twelve days, spins a "cocoon," (i. e., an outer covering of silky hairs) for itself, and becomes a chrysalis, from which the perfect flea emerges in about a fortnight more. Here are also some home-made remedies that you can try — they will all kill fleas — but my soap is so sure, so pleasant to use, and also so bene- ficial to the coat that it seems foolish to try anything else. One part of oil of cloves to 20 parts of methylated spirit. Directions: Apply all over after washing. Or, terebene 1 part, glycerine 1 part, methylated spirits 4 parts. Apply as before. Or, a lime and sulphur lotion, made by boiling 16 ounces of sulphur with half this quantity of slacked lime in a gallon of water, the whole being boiled down to 2 quarts and filtered. Apply a3 above. Or, precipitated sulphur 4 ounces, powdered camphor 1 ounce, powdered resin 1 ounce, terebene 1 dram. Directions: Mix; dust well into the hair. There are two flea powders made, both are very good, to rid .a dog of fleas, if you prefer a powder instead of a liquid remedy as is often de- sirable, especially in cold weather, to avoid the danger of dog catching cold. Dr. Clayton's, (see his advertisement), will do the work, if used as directed. The other one is "Vermilax Flea Powder," considered one of the best made. See the advertisement of Vermilax Co., in this book. I carry this Flea Powder in stock, and can send it by mail postpaid, at thirty cents a box. Fistula in Anus.— This is not uncommon in pampered and over-fed dogs, and may be partial or complete. It usually shows as an opening at the sides of the anus .extending upwards to the gut, where it can be seen; but in some cases there is no external opening. It is caused by consti- pation, when the hardened feces abrade the surface in its expulsion, or neglected piles, resulting in ulceration; or fistula of the anus may come from a wound inflicted on the part. Symptoms of Internal Fistula. — The dog drags himself along the ground, and the voided matter is highly offensive and often . covered or sy DISEASES streaked with blood and matter. The treatment should be left to the veterinary surgeon, who will lay the sinug open and apply remedies to set up healthy action and close it up. Flatulency. — Is not very common in adult dogs, but oftener met with in puppies. It is unmistakable evidence of indigestion. For immediate relief the treatment should consist in giving to a 20 lb. dog half a tea- spoonful of carbonate of magnesia, large dogs a teaspoonful, in a little milk; or give a dose of castor oil, and follow with 5 gr. to 15 gr. of carbonate of bismuth three times a day dry upon the tongue. For per- manent cure, correct the indigestion. See Indigestion. Foreign Bodies in the Intestines. — This is another cause of obstruc- tion in the bowels to which dogs are peculiarly liable. Pieces of bone "are swallowed of such size and substance that they pass through the diges- tive organs very slightly diminished, and getting into the smaller intestines, cannot pass farther, so that feces accumulate and harden until, if not re- lieved, inflammation is set up. Sometimes stones are swallowed and cause obstruction, and this will at once demonstrate the danger of throwing stones for dogs to retrieve, for, in their eagerness, they are apt to swallow them, especially if small. Wool or rabbit fur swallowed is likely to ball together with other matter. See Obstruction of Bowels. False Joint. — Is found where limb was improperly set, or the dog in unhealthy condition. It is the non-union of the bone by the usual osseous deposits, instead of which there is a fibrous connection, the union of the bones, or portions of them, is much like they had been united by a pi«ce of India rubber; the two pieces of bone can be readiiy moved, while the limb cannot support any weight. An operation is often attempted to set up inflammation of the parts, and induce osserous or bony deposits, but experience has proven such operations not very successful. Fatty Degeneration of the Heart. — Previous to making a brief refer- ence to this diseased state, it is necessary to tell the reader a few points of importance in connection with the healthy heart of the dog. It is a hollow, muscular organ, with a right and left compartment (the ventricles). In shape it is like a cone, th apex of the cone pointing downwards and backwards. The base is made up of two compartments of the body. These large vessels serve to suspend the heart in the chest cavity, says Frank Townsend Barton in British Fancier. "The blood coming from these vessels first of all passes into the two compartments at the base (auricles), and from these through valves into the compartments first mentioned, and called the ventricles. "The weight of the heart varies according to breed and age, but it has been estimated that it runs from -3 to 7 per cent of the weight of the animal. It is enclosed in a bag ,pericardium). When perfectly healthy it should be dark red in color, firm to the touch of the finger, and the traces of fat running down the various grooves upon its surface are a sign of a well-nourished orgaa. DISEASES 81 "Now, when it is affected by what is called fatty degeneration, it be- comes very pale, thin and flabby, greasy to the touch, with one or more patches of fat upon the walls of the ventricles. This is brought about by the muscle fibres composing the heart being changed or replaced by fat. "In order to bring about this condition the dog need not be fat itself; in fact, a heart in this state is far more likely to be found in a dog which is thin or underfed. "Dogs which are excessively fat externaly generally show the same internally; that is to say, that the heart, kidneys, liver, etc., may be com- pletely imbedded in one mass of fat; but then it must be understood that this is not a diseased state and does not interfere with the animal's health so long as it allows these different organs to perform their work. It is a sign of over rather than one of under nutrition. "The fatty degenerated heart is a diseased one. This is not technical. It is called an 'infiltration,' a term which means that fat is formed be- tween the muscular fibres. "I am not aware that there is any symptom or symptoms during life which will enable us to tell whether the heart is in this diseased state. An opinion can only be purely speculative. Of course, the heart has a weak beat, and the animal is easily knocked out. Sudden death is likely to occur either from failure of the heart's action, or, if the fat is in the form of a patch upon the wall, from sudden rupture of the wall at this spot,, whereby the blood would gush suddenly out of the heart into the bag containing it, ceasing to beat at once. "The animal must be prevented from any severe exertion. "It has been stated that this disease is common among pampered, asthmatical pets, the truth of which is open to serious doubt." This is perhaps the most frequent form of heart disease found in the dog; it is, however, seldom diagnosed during life. A postmortem will show in such cases that the fibres of the muscles are dotted with small dark. spots (these are globules of oil within the sheath of the fibre), the heart tissue is soft and breaks down readily under the finger. Cause may arise from a general malnutrition of the system, or from senile decay due to old age. The organ not always wholly involved, and when only a part is affected it is due to some obstruction, causing local malnutrition. Warty Growths on the Valves of the Heart. — The valves of the heart are sometimes the seat of small wart-like growths. When a dog has been a constant sufferer from rheumatism, in such we occasionally meet with these growths. Their presence may prevent the valves from working: properly, or one may be whipped off, and thus block the circulation. Sudden death may occur. Evertion should be avoided as much as possible; but this stite can only be surmised during life, as in the case of the former disease. Follicular Mange — See Mange. Founder of the Chest — See Kennel Lameness. Fracture. — See Bones Broken. 82 • DISEASES Gastritis See Stomach, Inflammation of Gatherings. — See Abscess and Boils. Glass Eye. — See Amaruosis. Glossitis. — See Tongue, Inflammation of Fractures. — While fractures are not of frequent occurrence in well- ordered kennels, they belong to that category of accidents against which there is sometimes no safeguard. A sudden twist, stopping in some hid- den cavity while galloping over a field, jumping a fence, or from a car- riage (one of the cleanest breaks of a hind leg occurred to a foxterrier bitch of ours while jumping off the carriage seat and catching her hind leg in the wire rail guard at the end of the seat), so one never knows when such accidents will happen. Simple fractures are so termed when a bone is broken into two pieces only; where a bone is broken into several pieces it is termed comminuted, and when the ends of the broken bone pierce the skin it is a compound fracture, which is the worst of all in the piecing. To detect a simple fracture is not always easy, though of course the other two conditions are more or less self-evident. In the case of a simple fracture, the limb should be taken hold of above the bruise or injury with one hand and with the other gently move the lower portion of the limb. If the bone or bones are fractured a grating noise will be heard and the jar of the broken bone can be felt. In treating this condition great care must be exercised in bringing the broken ends together, and it is best that the services of a surgeon be procured. In case that is not available, or a home cure is decided upon, the ends of the fractured bones should be brought opposite each other, and then splints, well secured by bandages, must be applied to keep them in their places until the two ends are joined. This is generally from three to four weeks in the case of a puppy, and from a month to six weeks in a matured dog. If the case is not attended to immediately after the accident the parts swell, and this swelling has to be reduced before any attempt can be made to set the bones, and cold water or ice applied to the swelling will easily reduce it. Before applying the splints it is necessary to wind a bandage around the limb two or three times from the bottom to the top, as this has the effect of preventing the splints from causing unnecessary irritation. The splints, which are best made of wood of about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness, of sufficient length to extend over the whole straight surface of the limb, should be four in number, viz., one for the front of the leg, one for the back and one for either side of it, and they should be just wide enough to cover the part of the leg on Which they are placed. Before applying them, the inside of each should be smeared with hot pitch, cobbler's wax or some such 6ubstance, so that they will adhere to the bandage and not slip, and then another bandage, which should be of considerable length (about six yards long) and one inch and a half to two inches wide, and which has been previously soaked in a thick solution of gum or common starch, should be DISEASES 83 wound round the limb from bottom to top. The object of the starch or gum solution is to give additional support, which it does when it gets stiff and hardens. After the operation the dog should be put into a quiet place — a large hamper or crate does very well — so that he can rest and not move about; but it often happens that the next day the part of the limb below the bandage is found to be swollen; if so the latter should be loosened for a short time, but it must be tightened again when the swell- ing subsides. The above treatment is of course only advised in the case of simple fractures where an amateur may indulge his surgical skill. Fits. — Dalziel so fully and ably handles this subject that I give his article entire, as it covers the whole ground. I have been governed by his ideas in treating many cases and the success I had leads me to endorse his treatment: "Fits are of common occurrence, especially in puppies — fortunately those that are of a dangerous and fatal character are the most rare; they often cause needless alarm, but the dog suffering from a fit of whatever kind is not an object to be frightened at, but to be commiserated and helped, and this requires freedom from a fear for which there is no just reason. Fits are of many kinds, and may be classified as apoplectic fits, distemper fits, fits from teething, fits from worms, and suckling fits, and other causes of excitement are known to produce them, even high notes of music, to which some dogs show a strong objection and are decidedly harmful. Apoplectic Fits are caused by pressure on the brain from distended blood-vessels or effusions of blood. The subjects of attack are generally those dogs that are kept in idleness and over-fed, and the attack may be the result of the animal over-loading the stomach with food difficult of digestion. The symptoms are loud, labored breathing; the dog lies mo- tionless on its side in a state of insensibility — there is no frothing at the mouth or champing of the jaws, but the eyes are fixed and often blood- shot. Such cases are usually fatal, and death is frequently instantan- eous. Prompt bleeding is the most likely means of saving the patient; and then, soon as sufficiently recovered, a strong purge should be given, or clysters administered. Should these means prove successful, it will be necessary to use extreme care to prevent a recurrence of the fit. The dog's diet must be carefully regulated, sufficient healthful exercise al- lowed, or compelled, if need be, and occasional doses of cooling medicine given. Clayton's or Dent's Blood Cooling Pills will be just the thing to give. Apoplexy in the dog is not often seen in practice. Distemper Fits are caused by congestion or inflammation of the brain, and often prove fatal. Epileptic Fits are not dangerous, but of very common occurrence, especially during the heated term, and generally happen when the dog is at exercise — sometimes in the case of pointers they are seized when on 84 DISEASES the- point, doubtless from the undue excitement produced. When the dog is attacked he is first observed to tremble on his legs, and on trying to run on he staggers and falls down on his side, frequently uttering a low moan. Struggling to his feet he attempts to move, only to repeat the fall, when he lies stupefied and insensible. The legs and the whole mus- cular system are violently convulsed, the clog froths at the mouth, the head is violently moved, often knocked against the ground, the jaws are champed together, and sometimes the tongue gets lacerated between the teeth, and the froth from his mouth becomes tinged with blood; the breathing during the fit is labored and irregular. The fit generally lasts several minutes. When the convulsions have subsided, the dog raises his head, opens his eyes with a look of.surpri.se, and very shortly runs about as if nothing had happened. The treatment during an epileptic fit is to generally carry the dog to a dry place where there is some soft material so that he cannot hurt himself in his struggles. As soon after as possible give him a dose of Anti-spasmodic Drops: Compound spirits of sulphuric ether (known as Hoffman's anodyne), and tincture of opium (laudanum), equal parts. (Keep well corked and cool.) Dose for 15 to 35 lb. dog would be a teaspoonful in two tablespoonfuls of milk. Larger dogs nearly a dessert- spoonful as a dose — and leave him quiet in a warm, comfortable kennel. Endeavor to ascertain the cause of the fit. If from over-feeding, reduce the diet and give gentle exercise, and, if need be, repeated doses of cool- ing medicine; 3 gr. of bromide of potash for a 20 lb. to 40 lb. clog twice a clay in water for a. week will be beneficial to dogs predisposed to epi- lepsy. Suckling Fits are produced by exhaustion consequent on the bitch having too many pups left on her. She lies or falls down breathing heavily, becomes insensible, and is frequently much convulsed. Remove all the pups but one or two, which must meanwhile be fed on the bottle, or by spoon, condensed milk — a little at a time but often — and let the mother have a generous diet, and if much reduced give Clayton's or Dent's Con- dition Pills for a week or so. Fits from Distemper The following is from the American Field and is prescribed for by Dent, their veterinarian: "I have an English setter bitch, twenty months old, which has dis- temper. I thought her about over it, when a few days ago she had a fit • which lasted about 3 minutes; she got up and seemed scared, had a wild look in her eyes and seemed unable to see well. She has those fits now once or twice a day and is very weak, but eats well, though hardly able to stand up. The fits she has. now are of shorter duration but she seems much weaker just after one; she has a fit soon after she begins to eat and is disturbed every morning; after she gets over it she will finish her breakfast of soup and rice or milk. Will she necessarily die or is she incurable? I have had a good deal of experience with distemper and have lost eight four-months-old puppies this Fall, but I have never lost any as old as this one. Ans— Give twenty grains of the bromide of soda DISEASES 85 and one-thirtieth of a grain of arsenic three times a day; w« think she will recover.-" Teething Fits often occur during the cutting of the first teeth, but more frequently when the permanent ones are being irrupted. Lancing the gums is sometimes resorted to, but as a rule a little opening medicine is all that is needed. Convulsions are frequently present in these fits, as also in those due to worms. Fits Due to Worms. — When these parasites are the producing cause, that fact may be ascertained by examining the fasces voided during or just after the fit, as some of them will probably be seen. Or the presence of worms may be determined by the symptoms given under that head, and to Worms you are referred. Feet, Sore. — Dogs that travel very much, sporting dogs that hunt over rough ground or short stubble, are apt to get the pads of the feet contused and worn thin. Treatment depends on extent of the injury. If feet are only tender and slightly inflamed, bathe with cold water, afterward applying freely the following lotion. Tincture of arnica Vs ounce Tincture of matico Vz ounce Tincture of opium 1 ounce Acetic acid % ounce Water enough to till a wine bottle. In severe cases apply a poultice of half bran and half boiled turnips. If the inflammation is great, and the feet become swollen, hot and pain- ful, so that the dog cannot stand, the general health suffers, as fever- ishness and loss of appetite will reduce his strength; matter will form in his feet or perhaps his soles will slough off. In such extreme cases, add linseed meal to the other ingredients and pour a little olive oil over its surface. The dog- should have a mild aperient and a dose of the following fever mixture: Powdered nitre 1 dram Sweet spirits of nitre ' % ounce Mindererus spirits 1 V2 ouncs Wine of antimony 1 dram Water 4 ounces Dose for a 30 lb. to 50 lb. dog would be a tablespoonful every four hours in a little gruel. Dog should be kept on a light diet. Sometimes, for more speedy relief, it is well to let the water out with a lancet, and in all respects these cases should be treated as ulcers. •86 DISEASES Goitre, or Bronchocelc — This term is applied to a swelling or lump that appears on the front part of the neck, known as the thyroid gland. It is soft and elastic to the touch, and appears to give no pain except when treatment is neglected and it increases to such a size as to interfere with the breathing. It is especially a disease of old dogs, although it often occurs in ill-fed and scrofulous puppies. If will appear in a night, and is sometimes due to a cold caught, which settles in the glands of the throat. The latest, and' I have found by having to treat many cases, is Iodin Vasigin, full strength, which apply twice daily, rubbing well in with the hands as you would apply a liniment. Another good remedy to apply same as aboce, is, Iodidode of Potassium, one dram to seven ounces 'of lard (well mixed). Aside from external treatment give cod liver oil — from a teaspoonful for a 20 lb. dog, up to two tablespoonfuls for a dog like a pointer or St. Bernard, three times a day. If abscesses form they must be lanced. Dogs suffering from Goitre should be extra well fed. Painting with tincture of iodine, one a day, is as good as 'anything you can do. Gatherings. — See Abscesses. Gastritis. — Symptoms very pronounced in the acute form, first vom- iting, pain and tenderness. The position of the animal is often charac- teristic. The animal lies stretched out on his belly. There is not the same tendency to arched back as in colic. Here is another "old fashioned" remedy, that I have found most suc- cessful. Get a dime's worth of Slippery Elm bark, cut it up, pour a quart of water over it, then set it in another vessel of water, and boil 'till it makes an emulsion like mucilage. Give dog a tablespoonful, (small toys half this), three times a day before feeding. Feed light, soft foods for a few days. Milk peptonized is very good. If there is constipation, Enemas must be given. "Water must be given sparingly, only a small quantity at a time and quite cold. Gleet. — Blaine gives this name to a discharge from the prepuce, but it appears to me the name is misleading. For further information see Penis, Discharge from, which, although not perhaps strictly correct, is adopted as being the most generally useful and readily understood heading. Professor Law, however, enumerates both Gleet and Gonorrhoea among the diseases of dogs. Heart, Valvular Disease of. — A very fatal form of heart disease. The pulse is perceptibly irregular and feeble. A post-mortem will show the valves thickened, and may present upon their surfaces granulations which feel under the finger like minute particles of sand. Treatment is of no avail; but to prevent sudden death all undue excitement should be avoided. Harvest Bugs. — These come in summer and are sometimes, but not often, troublesome to dogs as well as man. They burrow in the skin, as DISEASES 8? does the parasite in mange. Eberhart's Skin Cure applied twice a day, as in mange, will soon destroy them. Haematuria (Bloody Urine). — Dogs have this trouble, being the re- sult of calculi situated in the bladder, kidney or urethra. Irritation and inflammation are caused by these foreign bodies, and also injure the mu- cous membrane, producing abrasions and superficial bleeding, the blood being passed with the urine. A blow across the back may also cause it. Upon pressing the dog's loins pain is evinced, and there is also a certain amount of irritation caused by passing the urine. Blood is sometimes mixed with the latter, or it may be passed independently of it. Give' 10 to 60 drops of liquid extract of ergot every four hours, and if the urinary passage is the seat of the injury, inject a weak solution of Condy's Fluid. The food should consist for a time of Bovine or beef tea, with egg and milk to drink. Under no circumstances administer a diuretic. Hepatitis (Inflammation of the Liver). — See Jaundice. Hernia, Umbilical. — See Navel Hernia. Hiccough arises from indigestion, and often annoys house pets that are given improper food, such as sweets, etc. A wineglassful of lime wa- ter in a tumbler of milk to drink, and for a 20 lb. dog 10 grains of bicar- bonate of soda, and 10 drops of sal volatile in a tablespoonful of milk, will usually prove effectual. Another remedy I have used is camplior water (not spirits). Give a 20 to 40 lb. dog a teaspoonful and repeat in five minutes. Husk. — Dogs are subject to a dry, husky cough, associated with de- rangement of the stomach, and worms are often the originating cause. The symptoms are dry. hot nose, disagreeable breath, inflamed eye, and increased discharge from nose, with more or less general fever; the dog after coughing retches, bringing up portions of frothy mucus. The treat- ment consists in keeping the dog free from damp and cold,' feeding on warm, easily digested food, and the administration of a dose of salad oil every third morning, and the following two sets of pills, two a day of each, giving alternately: Pills for Husky Cough. — Powdered opium, 6 grains; tartarised anti- mony, 1 grain; compound squill pill, 1 dram; mix and divide into twenty- four pills, and give one to a 20 lb. dog twice a day. Tonic Stomachic Pills. — Pure Sulphate of iron, 12 grains; dried bicar- bonate of soda, 24 grains; extract of camomile, 24 grains; mix and divide into twelve pills. One of these is a dose for a 20 lb. dog. Not infrequently worms in the stomach will cause husk; if so, a full dose of ipecacuanha wine to cause vomiting should be given. As I am writing I have just had such a case of a dry, hard and in- cessant cough in an eight-months-old bull terrier pup, which cough sud- denly appeared without any apparent cause, the dog acting and seeming well, only for this dry, hard cough. She had been fully, as I supposed at 88 v DISEASES the time, treated for worms, and thought she was rid of them, but could not account for the cough. I was ou the lookout and seen her have a passage of a bloody and mucous nature. Toward night I concluded it might be worms, gave her a dose of Sergeant's Sure Shot after she had fasted from breakfast till supper time, and the result was — finding several small thread worms in her passage after the vermifuge had worked, and here was the cause of the dry, hard cough. I followed this up the next morning with a second dose of "Sure Shot," got more thread worms, and the bitch feeling much better, wanting to eat, and her cough very much better. She fully recovered. All this goes to show that you must get rid of the Worms — as they are the cause of more trouble to dogs than from any other cause or a combined lot of causes, you may as truthfully say. Honie Sickness. — This is often seen in dogs which, from some causa or other, have to leave their home and friends, and reside for a time in a hospital. It therefore behooves every one who has charge of such dogs to make them comfortable, and treat them as nearly as possible, consistent with rational and medical treatment, as they would be at home. It is absolutely cruel to place a nervous and highly sensitive pet dog in a kennel surrounded by other dogs which are continually barking, or to give them over entirely to an attendant, which is too frequently done in hospitals, the owner of the establishment, or the veterinary surgeon, only attending at intervals. All pets should be taken into the house, or have a special place set apart for them, where they can receive personal attention and have their small comforts attended to. Very much the best plan is to not send your pet to any veterinary hospital, but to keep it home where it will much better endure the ordeal it may have to go through, and have the surgeon come there to treat it. The dog will be happier in his own home where it will receive, aside from the treatment of the doctor, the kind care and attention it could not get in a strange place, among strangers and strange surroundings. Hookworms. — The process by which the hookworm reaches the intes- tines is most interesting. The egg, or embryo, is deposited in fecal matter within the intestines. It hatches, or develops, after being exposed to air and moisture, usually within twelve to twenty-four hours, if the tempera- ture is above seventy or eighty degrees Fahrenheit. In about eight days, under favorable conditions, such as being on warm, wet ground, it attains full growth (microscopically) and is ready to infest, which it does by boring through the skin or mucous membrane of the mouth into the blood canals, and is carried along with the blood currents to the lungs; then it bores through the walls of the blood canals into the air sacs and crawls up through the windpipe to the throat, and then passes directly to the in- testines, either by crawling or being swallowed with food or water, attaches itself to intestinal. membranes and begins a life which lasts from six to ten years, unless expelled. It subsists entirely upon the blood which it sucks. After it is attached, it grows to a length of one-third to one-half inch, the female being somewhat larger than the male, as shown in illus- tration. She is very prolific and one dog which is infested will pollute a DISEASES 89 vast area of ground by reason of rains washing or spreading the feces containing thousands of eggs or embryos. The presence of hookworm is hard, almost impossible to detect with- out the use of a microscope, unless the investment is quite heavy, then rapid decline is noticed, such as general weakness or paralysis of the legs or hindquarters. Symptoms. — Rough hair; sometimes a cough; as a rule the appetite continues fairly good; languid; eyes become bloodless and listless; gums pale, generally a creamy white. Excretion sometimes natural, again loose, again of a dysentery nature, frequently a little drop of blood or two. This may be examined by the average layman many times with the naked eye and from the fact that he "doesn't see any" the conclusion is arrived at that the dog is free of hookworm. Many times a dog in apparently the best of health is infected with these terrible pests, his strong constitu- tion overbalancing the damage that Mr. Worm is doing. This won't last always and sooner or later he will pay the price. While a microscopical examination will reveal the eggs, it occasionally happens that the worm itself is shown in feces under certain conditions. Of course, a microscopic examination of the feces for the ova is the one, absolute, certain way of determining a dog having them. This worm has been discovered in dogs, cats, foxes, badgers and human beings, adults as well as children. This is mentioned with the view to impress upon all interested the necessity of being alive to the true situation, in order to prevent the scattering of the disease and to show the chances of it being scattered. The worm attaches itself to the walls of the intestine and lives about seven years. Remember, kennel owners, the worm does not incubate in the intestine, but simply deposits its thousands of eggs there, which are passed out on the ground in the excrement. I have dissected six-week- old puppies and found many hookworms. This was, no doubt, brought about by the dam lying out on the ground, her teats being attacked by the freshly hatched worm, and brought to the suckling puppies. They were treated in the ordinary way for worms, but this will not kill hookworms. If hookworm is found in one dog in the kennel, it is safe to assume every dog in the kennel is infected, and should be treated. The following most valuable article is from The American Field, writ- ten by Edward Martin, M. R. C. V. S.: "Until quite recently hookworm disease in the dog, also known as pernicious anemia, uncinariasis, etc., has been but slightly recognized. This is probably owing to neglect on the part of owners of dogs and veterin- arians to make careful post-mortem examinations, and again, to the fact that young dogs infected with hookworm generally carry round worms and tapeworms,* and it is to the effects of these that death, when it occurs, is attributed. The hookworm parasite, technically known as Uncinaria, inhabits^the small intestines of dogs and foxes. When mature they attach themselves to the mucous membrane and live entirely on the blood they extract. For the purposes of this article they may be described as an extremely fine round worm, white or grayish in color, from one-third to seven-eighths of an inch in length, and about as thick as a fine sewing needle. As they can 90 DISEASES seldom be seen in the stools it may be advisable to describe their appear- ance on post-mortem examination of their host. Dogs dying from this disease are generally emaciated, and when the patient has lingered long covered with bedsores. The gums are pale, often spongy and ulcerated, the teeth covered with a dark green deposit, with a pronounced odor. On opening the abdomen the mesenteric glands are generally found to be enlarged and dark in color, due grain balls. Dose, one, two or three balls, according to size of dog. When bowels have freely acted then give the following, twice daily, until health has returned: Towdered rhubarb 1 scruple Powdered ginger 1 scruple Extract of gentian 4 scruples Divide into twenty-four pills and give one to four pills twice daily. If much flatulence, put a little bicarbonate of soda on back of tongue and let dog have water. With careful diet and exercise, these means will be found successful. Add a little lime water to the milk that is given to drink. By treating the patient thus and paying strict attention to his dietary and exercise, the disease will soon yield. I have used with good results in lieu of the above pill, Clayton's Di- gestive Pills and believe to be very good. The following article I found somewhere, and as it is worth repro- ducing here entire, I give it space in this book: "As in man, and many animals, indigestion in the dog may be acute, chronic and passive. In acute indigestion the attack is sudden and painful, and is the result of an overloaded stomach. The disorder is called chronic when the dog suffers for a continued time and his stomach and intestines 94 DISEASES are in a weakened condition. It is active when the attack is brought on by some extrinsic cause, passive when it is the result of some other disease, or is due to an intrinsic cause. "The breeds of dogs most likely to be affected by indigestion are the pug, the Japanese spaniel, the black and tan, the greyhound, the Yorkshire terrier, the French poodle and the fox terrier. "Pugs are probably the greatest sufferers. As a rule, they are en- couraged in laziness, while sweetmeats are fed to them indiscriminately, so that it is not surprising they should become fat and dyspeptic. "The foods which are richest in fats and those which are prone to fermentation are the most indigestible, but it is not so much the nature of the food as it is the quantity consumed at one time which injures an animal's stomach. Small dogs are more voracious in their feeding than large dogs. Some dogs never or seldom get a bone to gnaw. The dog is a carnivorous animal, and in a state of nature he lives only on the flesh of other animals. As he swallows his food with but little mastication, Nature has provided him with a desire to gnaw the bones into small pieces. "When these small pieces are taken into the stomach they bruise and lacerate the food until it is made thoroughly digestible. It is believed that 70 per cent of the cases of indigestion in dogs are due to their being deprived of bones to gnaw. Domestication has to a great extent modified the habits of the dog. Some pets are pampered and spoiled to the degree that they will eat only certain foods, which must be fed to them with a fork or from some particular dish. Such peculiarities are predisposing causes to indi- gestion. "A symptom of acute indigestion is vomiting after feeding. Later this is followed by general dullness; the dog isolates himself from his friends, his eyes .roll with an expression of fear. The muzzle may be dry. Rumbling sounds in the bowel sare heard, accompanied by distension of the abdomen, which is filled with gas. If the animal is forced to move, he shows great uneasiness and is stiff in his posterior limbs, his back arched to relieve the tension of the abdominal muscles. If the abdomen is manipulated he evinces acute pain. The bowels are constipated.. These symptoms may continue for an hour or more, and the attack may pass off as suddenly as it began, or it may last for some length of time, during which the dog suffers the greatest pain. Then the pain ceases, his eyes brighten, he becomes cheerful, and off he goes for a run, apparently per- fectly well. "The symptoms of chronic indigestion are the same as those of the acute attack, only they are less intense and they continue for days at a time. The dog often grows irritable to a state of fenzy, and will run about snapping and biting, exposing himself to be shot for mad by some over- zealous policeman. "As regards treatment, it is more important to regulate the diet than to give medicines. Feed the sufferer once or twice a day, not oftener, and feed him sparingly. Give him five (5) grains of saccharated pepsin before meals, and five (5) grains each of subnitrate of bismuth and bi- carbonate of soda after meals. For small dogs, such as terriers, black and tans, Japanese spaniels, etc., the dose should he reduced one-half," DISEASES 95 Inversion of the Vagina — See Uterus, Inversion of. Influenza. — This is an epidemic resembling common cold, but more severe in its effects, and contagious. The causes are supposed to be atmos- pheric cold, and damp weather in spring and autumn, which are the usual seasons of its appearance. Influenza is not to be dreaded if taken in hand at once, but if once the system becomes run down or the various symptoms which denote the disease take good hold, there is serious trouble ahead, and leads to complications which deplete the kennel. Even if a cure is affected the convalesence is long and subject to a relapse from the most trivial cause. In the first stage the symptoms are dullness of the animal, loss of appetite, rigors or shivering fits, nose hot, then cold, increased thirst. Second stage: A discharge from nose and eyes, which at first is mucoid and watery, but it soon becomes of a mattery description; the breathing becomes acceler- ated and the conjunctival membrane red (this is the lining membrane of the eyelid). The symptoms in these first stages are very like the earlier symptoms of distemper, and most people seeing one of these cases for the first time, and in a young dog, would say it had the latter-named disease. The discharge is not, however, of the purulent offensive character that denotes distemper and the disease is as liable to attack old dogs as young ones. In some cases the eyes are seriously affected, the cornea be- comes of a bluish shade, the sight is affected, and in some cases ulcers form. In the latter case use Eberhart's Eye Lotion No. 2, two or three times daily. Distemper is gradual in its development, but in influenza the dif- ferent stages develop with great rapidity, the disease running in some cases on to complications in twenty-four hours. If the complaint is not checked in its earlier stages one or both of the after-mentioned compli- cations may set in. These complications are affections of the lungs, and those of a rheumatismal character. When the chest complication is setting in, the breathing becomes more accelerated and painful, the fever increases, in fact the symptoms are those of ordinary chest complaints; and these may be bronchitis, congestion and inflammation of the lungs or pleurisy. As it requires the skilled practitioner to differentiate one class of chest disease from another, it would be useless to attempt to explain to the amateur how to diagnose this for himself. The dog should be kept in dry quarters and away from draughts. The treatment should be similar to that recommended under Cold. The dog will, however, require still greater care exercised in keeping him warm and in a well-ventilated place, as well as in being supported with easily-digested food, such as strong broth, beef tea, boiled milk, bread, etc. In the early stages, Hoffman's anodyne or compound spirit of sulphuric ether, given in milk three times a day, is generally beneficial. Dose for a 20 lb. dog, 15 drops; smaller toy dogs. 10 drops; larger dogs, 20 drops. Any discharge from the nose should be encouraged by warm fomentations and making the dog inhale the vapor from vinegar of squills sprinkled on a hot wet sponge or cloth. If the throat is swollen and sore, slightly blister with vinegar and mustard, but do not apply too long. Feed on nourishing foods, strong broth, boiled milk and bovine. A 96 DISEASES few drops of the latter, administered frequently in milk, is very strength- ening. In convalescence a treatment for a few works of Eberhart's Tonic Pill, (which contain no arsenic or "dope") will be of great benefit in building the dog up. Another authority advises as follows: "The dog will, however, require great care exercised in keeping him warm and in a well-ventilated place, as well as in being, supported with easily-digested food, such as strong broth, beef tea,, boiled milk, bread, etc. In the early stages compound spirit of sulphuric ether, given in milk + hree times a day, is generally beneficial. Dose for a twenty pound dog, 15 drops; Any discharge from the nose should be encouraged by warm fomen- tations and making the dog inhale the vapor from vinegar or squills sprink- led on a hot, wet sponge or cloth. If the throat is swollen and sore, slightly blister with vinegar and mustard. In convalescence give cod liver oil and syrup of iodide of iron," or Eberhart's Tonic Pills instead of the cod liver oil and iron, are just the thing to use here. The following is also good advice on Influenza: Symptoms: The disease is commonly located in the mucous mem- brane of the nose, the lungs and air passages. The first symptoms are those of a common cold chill, lassitude, shivering, sneezing and loss of appetite. The small veins of the eye and membranes are injected and there is a profuse discharge "of tears, as well as a swelling of the nasal membranes. The throat becomes sore and there is a dry, hoarse cough that is sometimes so severe as to terminate in attempts to vomit. Breath- ing is hurried and painful and prostration is well marked. The patient is dull and sleepy, and, when forced to move acts stiff, sore and lame. There is more or less fever of an intermittent type and the animal suffers from excessive thirst. The pulse is irregular and usually is full and soft. Diges- tion is disturbed and the bowels are generally too loose, although in some cases constipated. Expectoration is scanty, but frequently attempted. Treatment: Keep the patient warm and in a room that is well venti- lated and free from draughts. Allow plenty of cold water to drink and feed anything the patient will eat. Broths of mutton, beef or milk are good, as well as raw, loan beef, chopped fine; egg noggs. raw eggs, gelatine, etc, If the temperature is high and continues so. give quinine in two-grain doses every four hours until it is reduced. If the bowels are constipated, loosen them by doses of olive oil, a tablespoonful to a dose. If the throat is badly congested and breathing is difficult, it should be rubbed with some camphorated oil, or hot applications applied, and then bandaged with soft flannel. The following prescription is highly recommended: Ammonia mur. and ext. of glycyrrhizae pulv., of each two drams; aquae, three ounces. Give one teaspoonful in water, every three hours. It is important that the animal's strength be kept up and cod liver oil should be given in tablespoonful doses four times a day, as well as the syrup of iodide of iron. The doses given are for medium sized dogs, use judgment if for small dogs. r-~ — diseases ; ; 97 IrLs, Inflammation or. — See Iritis. Injury to the Brain — The bony covering of the brain is very strong in the dog. They are liable to accidents from falls on the head, running full force against some obstacle, or from a blow, which may cause concussion of the brain. The dog will lie stunned or insensible, breathing feebly, and pulse small and quick. In treating, examine the head for fracture of the skull, and, if bleeding, stop it by cold applications. In cases of this kind consult a good veterinary surgeon. Until he comes rub brandy or whisky on the gums and keep the body warm. If you have on hand ammonia hold it to the nostrils. Intussusception. — See Bowels, Obstruction of. — This is a slipping of one portion of the intestines that has been contracted by spasm, within another part retaining its natural diameter, and is another and not uncom- mon cause of obstruction, and apt to occur during spasmodic colic. It is fatal, and can not be determined by symptoms, a postmortem only showing the trouble. No dog should be allowed to be costive over two days, and not so long, is much safer, without having been helped by proper remedies prescribed elsewhere. It is always safe, however, and advisable to give in such cases a full dose of castor oil, olive oil or a mixture of both. Worms can cause obstruction in the intestines, especially in puppies, round worms getting coiled up into balls, which sets up local irritation, interfering with the natural action of the bowels. Jaundice, or the "Yellows," and Inflammation of (he Liver (Hepatitis). — These should be treated as distinct diseases, but to the ordinary dog owner the division would be of little use. the causes and general treatment being alike. There are two forms of inflammation of the liver — the acute and chronic, the former the rarer, which appears more suddenly; the latter comes as a sequel of the acute. The causes of this disease, in most cases, are traceable to improper and over-feeding, combined with lack of exercise, which accounts for the great number of such cases occurring in house and pet dogs. In hunting dogs it can be brought on by continued exposure to wet, or their going into water in cold weather, sleeping in damp places, of over-exertion. One very common cause is the repeated resort to powerful emetics, which so many use as if they possessed a charm over dog diseases. Symptoms. — Dog is dull, restless in his sleep, has excessive thirst, very poor appetite, becomes thin, and the portions of his skin not covered by hair you will readily notice to be of a yellowish color or tinge. This will be seen on the gums, lips, and under the legs. The discharge is fetid, and urine, passed in small quantities, is yellow. There is also fever, with fits of heat and shivering. Vomiting sometimes occurs; the matter ejected is slimy and of a yellowish color; the bowels are generally constipated, and the excrement of a pale clay color. In chronic cases the belly is often enlarged and flatulence often exists. In severe cases the dog will los« flesh rapidly, and soon become a mere skeleton. The liver, in a healthy state, secretes a yellow fluid called the gall, which is collected in the gall 98 msEAsss --* ■* i - - ; j | bladder, intended to mix with the chyle, completing digestion. When ob- struction of the gall bladder takes place the gall is diverted from its natural purpose, is reabsorbed by the blood vessels, enters the general system, giving a bright saffron color to the eyes, lips, inside of the ears, arms and thighs, sometimes to the whole skin, and from this it is often called the "Yellows." Jaundice is of frequent occurrence, often exists as a sequel to distem- per, and when this is the case is most difficult to manage on account of the already reduced strength of the patient. Treatment must to some extent be governed by circumstances of each case. The invariable yellow color of the parts mentioned as a symptom in this disease is one which the least careful observer cannot fail to notice; but before this occurs there are other symptoms which should not be overlooked. In the earlier stages the dog's appetite fails; he suffers con- siderable thirst which increases as the disease progreses; there is fever, with alternate fits of heat and shivering; vomiting may occur, and the matter ejected is generally slimy and of a yellowish color; the urine is passed in small quantities, and is a deep yellow color; the bowels are generally constipated, and the excrement is of a pale clay color. In chronic cases the belly is enlarged, and flatulence often exists; while on the right side a swelling may be felt. In severe cases the dog rapidly loss flesh and soon becomes a mere skeleton; the coat is rough and staring, and often somes off in patches. All writers I have consulted on the subject recommend mercury in the treatment of jaundice, so I here give par- ticulars of its dose, and the mode of administering it, for the benefit of my readers, although I do not myself use it. Mercurial Treatment of Jaundice. — Calomel 2 grains to 4 grains, with 1 grain of opium every six hours, as per size of dog, is not uncommon pre- scription. Or another treatment is: Blue pill 3 grains, opium 1 grain, to be given every five or six hours. If diarrhea be produced by this treat- ment, the quantity of opium must be increased, and the mercury, if neces- sary, reduced to 2 grains. I prefer to use the Compound Podophyllin Pills: Podophyllin 6 grains Compound extract of colocynth 30 grains Powdered rhubarb 48 grains Extract of henbane 36 grains Mix and divide into twenty-four pills. One pill to dog up to 20 lbs., two pills to larger ones. If the bowels be not freely opened after administering the first pill a close of salts and senna (black draught) should be given; on the other hand, if diarrhea exists it must be checked. In conjunction with the pills the following mixture should be tried: Mixture for Jaundice. — Take bromide of potassium, 1 dram; taraza- cum (dandelion) juice, 3 ounces; mix, and give a teaspoonful three times a day in water or gruel. This dose is for a dog about 20 lb. weight, for DISEASES 99 a 50 lb. or larger dog give a two teaspoonful dose. Benefit is also derived from the administration of 30 grains to 60 grains of sulphate of potassium in water. The dose may be repeated in twenty-four hours, but must not be continued long enough to cause excessive purging. When, as in chronic inflammation, the liver is enlarged, the Liniment for Sprains, equal parts of spirits of turpentine, liquid ammonia (not the strongest), laudanum and rape oil, well rubbed round the region of the diseased organ, or a strong mustard plaster applied. Another method of affording relief is to take a piece of flannel, dip it in hot water, wring the water out, pour some spirit of turpentine over the material, and apply to the affected part. It is very important that the bowels should be freely relieved at the outset, and if the means advised above prove unsuccessful, it would be well to resort to clysters of oatmeal gruel and castor oil. The diet is very important throughout the attack. Must be light and nourishing, and in a fluid or sloppy form. Boiled wheat flour, with beef tea or mutton broth, is very good. Keep dog warm, dry, and disturbed as little as possible. Kennel Lameness, or Chest-Founder. — (See Rheumatism, also.) — This is a rheumatic affection of the forequarters, and particularly of the muscles connecting the shoulder-blade with the trunk. It is caused by exposure to wet and cold, and generally by the dog being kept in damp or draughty kennels. The symptoms are stiffness and soreness of one or both shoul- ders. This is most noticeable when the. dog is running down hill, or when jumping, as of course then practically the whole of the weight of the body is on these parts. Left to himself, the dog shows an indisposition to move, and experiences pain if the hand is passed over his shoulders; indeed, even when a attempt is made to touch him, he shrinks from the hand with a snarl or anticipatory cry of pain. In long-standing cases power of move- ment of the forequarters is almost lost, and many are incurable. The treatment most advised is to give a warm bath, and after thor- oughly drying, rub the parts well with a liniment composed of equal parts spirit of turpentine, spirit of hartshorn, and laudanum. If that should fail to give relief the following should be tried: Liniment for Rheumatism.— Take liniment of aconite, 1 part; com- pound camphor liniment, 2 parts; mix, and rub into the affected parts con- tinuously for half an hour at a time, using considerable friction. The rheumatic liniment is expensive, also a powerful poison, so that great care must be used with it. The dog's coat should be wiped dry after applying it, and it is advisable that he should wear a canvas-faced muzzle. The bowels should be freely acted on, and the Compound Podophyllin Pills (find prescription under Asthma) will be the best aperient. This pill given once will probably be enough. A little warm broth after given will assist its action. The fol- lowing mixture should also be given: Mixture for Rheumatism. — Take iodide of potassium, y 2 dram; sweet spirit of nitre, Y 2 ounce; water, 3% ounces. Give one to two dessert- spoonfuls for a dose, twice a day. Even more useful than the mixture recommended, is salicylate of sodium in 10 grain to 30 grain doses, in water, three times a day. If 100 - -i - -r • - -i - DISEASES this fail, then try 5 grains to 15 grains of benzoic acid in pill form, twice a-day. The food shoufd be sloppy and nourishing, and the dog be kept in a warm, dry place, free from draught. Kidneys, Inflammation of the This is fortunately not often found in the dog. It is a disease of a very dangerous nature. The symptoms are intense fever, great pains across the loins, a peculiar straddling gait and the ineffectual or partial effort to pass urine, the quantity being small and sometimes mixed with blood. It may be caused by the presence of stone, by blows or sprains in the lumbar region, or due as a result of having administered overdoses of turpentine, cantharides, or other powerful exci- tants of the urinary organs. It is safest and advisable to call in a qualified veterinarian in this trouble. Relief can be given by continuous bathing of the surrounding parts with warm water, relieving the bowels, and re- ducing the attendant fever by daily doses of (12 grains for an ordinary dog) of Dover's Powder, and the constant use of the following fever mixture: Powdered nitre 1 dram Sweet spirits of nitre y 2 ounce Mindererous spirit ' 1 y z ounce Wine or antimony 1 dram Water 4 ounces Mix; dose for a 20 lb. to 40 lb. dog, one tablespoonful every four hours in a little gruel. Larger dogs like St. Bernards a table- spoonful and a half as a dose. Keeping Flies Off Ear and Nose. — Flies often bother a dog's ear and nose in summer, making sore places. Pine tar rubbed on the sore places will do this nicely, also healing up the sores at same time. You can get a box of it at any drug store for 10 cents, or Eberhart's Skin Cure applied twice daily will do the work as well. Lice. — See Parasites External. Lice. — There are two kinds of lice which infest dogs, and both of them are quite similar to those infesting man. One, the Haematopinus piliferus, is generally found about the throat and back of the ears, but may extend over all parts of the body. The female is two mm. long, in color a yellowish white, the head being a little darker than the body. The male is 1.15 mm. long. The head is short and as wide as it is long. It is salient and is exactly applied to the thorax. The third and fourth articles of the antennae are alike. The female is about 2 mm. in length. The abdomen is a long oval in shape and well developed. It is made up of nine round segments, the first seven having two rows of short bristles. The other louse (Trichodectes latus) is a bright yellow, with dark spots, with blackish brown bands on the head. The female in length is 1.5 mm., the male 1.4 mm. The head is wider than it is long. The antennae are hairy and differ- DISEASES 101 ent In both sexes, the first article in the male being much thicker than the other. The abdomen is broad and more rounded in the female than in the male and has lateral but no median spots. Lice live in all parts of the body — the roots of the ears, around the eyes and all about the head and face, as well as along the top of the back. They spt up an irritation that causes the dog to scratch and worry continually, and if the skin be closely examined streaks and dots of blood will indicate the feeding places of these pests, which are easily discerned creeping about. The rapidity with which lice multiply is marvelous. Independent of the destructive influences which restrain their multiplying, it is estimated that the descendants in the third generation of one female louse will num- ber 125,000. v The most effectual and the safest remedy for the destruction of lice is a lime and sulphur lotion. The skin should be thoroughly saturated with it for ten or fifteen minutes, and at the end of this time the dog should be given a bath in lukewarm water, a standard dog soap being used. He should then be brushed and combed until thoroughly dried. Covering the dog with a mixture of cotton seed oil and crude coal oil in equal parts and then washing the dog at the end of a half hour with warm water and dog soap will kill eithpr fleas or lice. Eberhart's Skin Remedy will kill lice. It should be thoroughly rub- bed in, not missing a spot on the dog. After it has been on half an hour, then the dog can be washed and dried; this bath only given to remove the grease, if it is a house pet. . If in warm weather, and dog can be kept out in the yard, the bath is not necessary. The application must be repeated at least once more, In twenty-four hours, to kill the nits or the young ones that are born every twenty-four hours. My dog soap will kill lice, if you apply it thoroughly, and allow it to remain on (and repeat once or twice more. For pet or house dogs the insect powders generally made from the powdered flowers of pyrethrum roseum will be found most convenient. Unfortunately their expense precludes their general use in kennels. The powder must be well rubbed into the roots of the hair or blown in with a small bellows, made for that purpose, that is of assistance in spreading it well around the roots of the hair. After allowing it to remain on some time — fifteen minutes to one hour — it can be dusted out over a sheet of pa- per, which can then be rolled up and burned. Lock-Jaw (Tetanus) — This is of very rare occurrence, a fact all the more remarkable when we consider how liable the dog is to various spas- modic affections. I have never seen a case of it myself, but Blaine describes it, and it is a recognized canine disease. It is a form of tetanus, and under that head Professor J. Woodroffe Hill describes the symptoms: "When the jaws only are affected, the head is poked out, the jaws are tightly closed, the angles of the mouth are drawn back, the mouth is filled with frothy saliva, and the eyes are fixed in an unnatural and often hideous position." If you are so unfortunate as to have a dog seized with lock-jaw, place him in quiet place on a good bed where the light is subdued and he will not be liable to be disturbed, and send at once for the best veterinary 102 DISEASES surgeon you can find. A cure is very doubtful, even with the most skilled treatment; but, as a matter of duty and humanity, try and help your dog through this most dangerous trouble if it is possible. All owners of dogs should keep informed as to the veterinarians in their town or city, as to which one is experienced in canine practice, so that when a case is urgent, you will know what one to call in and just where to find him. Officious ignorance and rough handling would only cause pain without the remotest hope of good results. Looseness of the Bowels — See Diarrhea and Dysentery. Lumbago. — See Rheumatism. Leucorrhoea. — Use as an injection peroagina sulphate of zinc, % dram; acetate of lead, Vz dram to a pint of water. One injection per day, except in bad cases it can be used twice daily. Lacteal Tumors. — No better treatise on this trouble can be given than Dalziel's: "Every dog owner must know what a common <:hing it is to see a bitch with an enlargement of one of her teats, or the structures adjoining them. Now, not only is such very unsightly, but when grown to a considerable Size, as it will do, it is very liable to injury. "The immediate cause is the damming up of one of the milk-ducts; the teat is 'blind,' as it is called in dairy parlance — that is, the flow of milk through it is obstructed by some malformation. Far oftener, however, the milk itself is the cause; that is to say, it is not drained off sufficiently, when it hardens, acts as a foreign body, and still further as an irritant, be- cause of its chemical decomposition. The effect of this is that more or less inflammation of the milk-gland is produced, a hard lump forms and increases gradually, and once begun, the evil develops more and more at each return- ing period after oestrum, when pupping has or should have taken place. "From the numerous questions I have received on the subject it does not appear to be generally known by those who keep dogs that some bitches, even if they have been secluded from the dog during the period of 'heat,' will secrete a fluid much resembling milk at the time they would have had pups had impregnation been allowed, but such is the case. It is, therefore, the duty of the owner to note the time and look out for the evidence of this secretion and have it removed by hand, or by one of the many breast- exhausters, giving at the same time a light diet, with an extra proportion of boiled vegetables and a few doses of cooling, aperient medicine. Permit- ting a bitch when in milk to lie on cold bricks or flags, or to be exposed in other ways to cold and damp, may also cause obstruction af the teat and subsequent tumors; while blows, bruises and wounds sometimes produce a like result. A not uncommon cause of these lacteal tumors Is the hurried drying up of the milk by artificial means. It is sometimes desirable to destroy pups that are the result of a mesalliance, but it is absolutely cruel to deprive the poor mother of all her progeny. In addition to the cruelty, DISEASES 103 there is always the risk of the flow of milk clamming up one or more of the teats and producing tumor. "The measure of prevention against lacteal tumors will, from the foregoing remarks, have suggested themselves to the reader. Nature has ordained that the bitch should bring forth young at least once in twelve months, and, though she permits us to take certa'n liberties with her laws, yet if we go beyond a certain limit, disease follows as a punishment; even when we interfere with her prerogative, it must not be by direct contradic- tion, but by diverting her forces into other channels. When we forbid the bitch to breed we put an embargo on certain functions, and the energy that supplies and works these functions we divert by exciting extra secre- tions of the bowels, kidneys, etc.; but the safest, because the most natural, prevention of disease, is to let the bitch breed. "When it is desired to 'dry' the bitch, that is, to stop the secretion of milk, it is wrong to give alum and other astringents, and to rub brandy, etc., along the mammae. The object is more surely obtained gradually, and that without the risk of untoward results, by drawing off what m ,- lk there is regularly, giving a spare diet, and a good purge, following this with 2 grains to 3 grains of iodide of potassium, twice a day, and rubbing well with the following liniment: L'niment for Drying Bitches. — Iod'de of potassium, 2 drams; soap lini- ment and oil of camphor, of each 2 ounces. When a tumor does form, and the bitch is still in milk, draw the milk off twice a day, and in any case, give a brisk purge. Keep her on a spare, and rather dry diet, and to one of 20 lb. weight give twice a day 2 grains of iodide of potassium, in about two tablespoonfuls of water, immediately after feeding, and apply twice Or thrice a day the following ointment to the lumps or swelling i pi'ifmeut for Lacteal Tumors: Iodide of potassium ,,,,,,,,,,, 1 Arnux powdered camphor ,.,,,,,.,... 1 dram Strong mercurial ointment ,,,,,,,.,........... V2 ounce Spermaceti ointment .,,,...... . 1 oinwn Mixed, Rub a little W©il in with gentle friGUct). If these means do not prove sufficient for the dispersion of the swell- ing, add to the above ointment 2 scr, of resublimcd iodine dissolved in, a, little spirit of wine. When the swelling has gone on so far unheeded that matter is formed, and becomes soft and ripe (which may be told by the fluctuating of the enlargement under pressure of the finders \ there is nothing for it but the lancet, which should be inserted in the soft 1 a. t, and a cut made downwards, to insure perfect drainage. The parts must then be frequently bathed, the matter pressed out, washed with a solution of Condy's FluM, and dressed with Turner's cerate, while the pat ; ent should havo a g^orl ctrcn~ purg*. These growths are often, removed by the knife, and when of. long standing 104 DISEASES that is the only course. Camphorated Oil is also used in such cases, and for drying up the milk I have found it very satisfactory. Dent treats this subject as follows: "Nature has ordained that at least once a year certain nervous energies in the female clog be set in motion. This nervous force excites the bowels, the brain, the kidneys, the circulation, and all the other organs "of the body, and what is known as the period of oestrum, or being in season, is the result. If the bitch be bred at this time a natural function is performed and a natural law satisfied. If she is not bred these functions are seriously interfered with for the time, how seriously or the extent of the interference we do not know. That this nervous action does not cease or is entirely suppressed by simply putting the bitch by for the time is unmistakably denied by subsequent events. A natural prerogative asserts itself and it is a common occurrence for bitches which have not been bred to develop a feverish disturbance of the system, a swelling of the milk glands and the secretion of a whitish fluid resembling milk at the time they would have given birth to puppies if they had been bred. "If this milky fluid is not drawn off with the breast pump there is danger of its hardening and forming a lacteal tumor. In passing a bitch over the period of oestrum without breeding her, it would be well for all breeders to anticipate the possibility of this secretion; watch for it at the proper time. Remove it if it appears and feed for the time a light, cooling diet of stale bread or dog biscuits softened in soup or milk, with an increased amount of vegetables, and keep the bowels open with doses of cascara sagrada and olive oil as often as may be necessary. In cases of a misalliance the puppies are frequently destroyed at birth. This is posi- tively cruel to the mother and the shock to her nervous system is so great as to frequently affect her constitution. The puppies should be taken away as previously stated, one or two at a time, and the milk dried up, with the same care as if the puppies were to be raised. "Lacteal tumors sometimes result from blows, wounds, kicks and other injuries; exposure to the cold, sudden chills from lying on damp straw or upon cold bricks or cement floors. The great proportion of cases, however, is due to the causes, first mentioned. "Treatment. — To dry a bitch up properly and prevent the formation of milk tumors after removing the puppies as previously described, keep the bowels open with cascara sagrada and olive oil; feed a spare diet or raw, lean beef, chopped fine, milk, gelatin, eggs, stale bread or dog biscuits soaked in thin soup. If there is any milk remaining in the gland draw it off night and morning with a breast pump. "Apply the following liniment three times a day, with gentle massage: Camphorated oil four ounces, fluid extract of belladonna three drams, soap liniment two ounces, witch hazel two ounces. "Give a thirty-pound dog a capsule containing of the iodide of potash three grains, pepsin three grains, gentian three grains, diastase one grain. "For the removal of lacteal tumors the following ointment is recom- mended: Iodide of potassium two drams, powdered camphor two grains, mercurial ointment two drams, iodine resub ten grains, five grains of men- r DISEASES 105 thol alcohol q. s., lanolin three ounces. Apply three times a clay and rub well into the skin with gentle friction. The capsules previously mentioned should also be given three times a day. "Tumors that do not yield to the treatment, or have been let go so far as to become ripe or full of matter, can only be treated with the knife. Operations should only be entrusted to a veterinary surgeon, who will insert the lancet at the softest spot of the enlargement and drain off the contents, afterward inserting a pledget of oakum which should be changed daily. Large tumors that do not soften should be dissected out entire and the wound properly dressed." Labor, Premature. — This is occasionally caused by over exertion, leap- ing from a high place, injuries and the abuse of purgatives, as well as the. result of diseased organs; it is not of very frequent occurrence, bitches generally whelping exactly sixty-three days after the visit to the dog, al- though there are numerous instances where the time is varied more or less. When it does occur the bitch should be placed in a comfortable room and kept perfectly quiet, fed on broth, porridge, &c, and repeated doses, one every four or five hours, of opium, should be given. See also Parturition. Lameness may arise from a cut foot, a thorn, injury to the spine, or to one of the limbs or joints or from rheumatism, when it comes on suddenly, seek for the cause, and treat the case accordingly, the liniment for sprains very likely to be of benefit in many of such cases. Laryngitis, or Inflammation of the Upper Part of the "Windpipe. — This common affection is caused by cold or incessant barking, the dog becomes hoarse and the power to bark articulately is gone. Yard dogs kept con- stantly on chain, and very wrong to so keep any dog, are very liable to contract this from straining on their collar in barking and trying to get at somebody or something it sees. In treating laryngitis there is danger of choking the dog in drenching because of the difficulty in swallowing caused by the inflammation. The following electuary in this or any case of sore throat will be found safer and very beneficial: Chlorate of potash, finely powdered 2 drams Powdered gum guaicum 1 dram Powdered gum acacia ' 1 dram Oxymel of squills 5 drams Honey 1 ounce Mix, and place a teaspoonful well back on the tongue three times a day. Poultice the throat with hot linseed meal poultices, renewed often, or bathe with hot water, and afterwards rubbed well in the following liniment: Spirit of turpentine . . , , 1 ounce Spirit of hartshorn .. .,,,,,,,,,,,,,.,,, , X ounce Tincture of cantharldes % ounce Rape oil , ,,,,,, 1 ft ounoes 10« DISEASES Here is a case prescribed for by Dent: "I have an English setter dog about twenty months old that acts as though he had something in his throat. It affects his breathing, and when he first showed symptoms of it his eyes were red and ran matter. He eats sometimes, but at others will not eat; is healthy and bright. I can put my finger under his throat and press very lightly, and it almost shuts off his wind. It seems as though there was a kind of bunch in his throat that is not natural. (1) Would inflammation of the larynx cause it? (2) Is there such a thing as a tumor of the larynx? I had him in swim- ming about four weeks ago, and when he was in the water his breathing sounded like the voice of a frog. Please diagnose and prescribe. Ans.— (1) Yes. (2) Yes. Your dog has laryngitis; give the following: Glycrrhiza two drams, muriate of ammonia one dram, tincture opium thirty minims, water to make two ounces; dose one teaspoonful every four houri." Lungs, Inflammation of (Pneumonia; Pleurisy — Inflammation of the Investing Membrane of the Lungs, and that which lines the Chest-CaYity — &c.) — On this subject I give Dalziel's treatment complete. These two diseases are sometimes co-existent, when it is known as pleuro-pneumonia. It would be too much to expect an amateur to distin- guish between them; but as the causes and treatment are much the same, I shall continue to treat them as one disease. This disease is of very com- mon occurrence in dogs, and in many cases proves fatal. When it exists as a complication of distemper it is known as "chest distemper;" but other Of the respiratory organs may be involved. The causes producing inflammation of the lungs are generally exposure to gevere cold, allowing dogs to swim during inclement weather, clipping dogs or otherwise removing a greater part of their natural covering, or washing them and afterwards exposing them to excessive cold, especially If not thoroughly dried. In fact, any sudden transition from a high to a low temperature may produce it, especially in dogs of a delicate consti- tution and unused to roughing it. Again, it may occur from over-exertion through running too far, or from fractured ribs penetrating the lung-tissue. The more notable symptoms are quick and labored breathing, the in* spirations being full, the expirations short, and the breath hot. The dog sits on his haunches, and if obliged to move doeg so reluctantly, and soon resumes that position, with his head pushed forward. The ribs are mora or less fixed, and the abdominal muscles brought Into action, especially If pleurisy is present. The fixed position of the ribs, with the heaving of the flanks, is a most characteristic symptom of pleurisy. In affections of the lungs, the animal stands with its legs (fore legs) wide apart. If the dis- ease progresses, the face has a haggard expression, the angle of the mouth is drawn up, and the extremities become deathly cold. If not relieved, the dog rapidly gets worse, and the breathing becomes more labored and painful. Pleurisy, or inflammation of the investing membrane of the lungs, often exists independently, or as a complication of pneumonia. To treat this disease with any chance of success it is important that the dog should be kept where he can freely breathe fresh, cool, a!r; a hot. stiflin* place is equally to be avoided with a damp or draughty one. Whilst cool, fresh air DISEASES 107 i« insured, the patient must at the same time be kept warm by clothing: if necessary; it is also needful that he should be as little distrubed as possible. If the legs are cold, woollen bandages should be placed on all of them. The diet should be rather low at first, but not too much so — broth, gruel, etc., are suitable under the circumstances. In the way of medicines, it is necessary that the bowels should be kept open by castor oil or the use of clysters. The Fever Mixture — which find given under Catarrh, should be immediately and diligently administered. Blisters to the sides, as sometimes advised, are bad, as they cause soreness and increase the pain in breathing. Hot -linseed poultices should alone be employed throughout the day and night. If the fever is high, give % to 1 drop of tincture of aconite every fifteen minutes for two hours, then hourly for eight hours. Dogs recovering from this disease are always very weak, and require very great care to prevent a relapse, even when all danger appears to be gone. Only the most gentle exercise should be allowed at first, and fine weather selected for it. The dog will require nourishing diet, which should be plain, and consist for a time of broths, etc. a return to solid food being gradual. The dog will at this stage be greatly benefited by tonics and to build him up use either Eberhart's Tonic Pills, or Sergeant's Con- dition Pills. Mange — A troublesome, and, in some forms, the most loathsome dis- ease met with in the dog, occurring in so many forms as to be not always easy of distinction. The trouble with too many dog owners is, that, when any skin trouble appears they are most likely to call it Mange. Mange and Eczema are too often confounded, and, as there is a decided difference, mange being a skin trouble, due to a parasite, while eczema is a blood trouble, the two diseases require different treatment. The term mange, as applied to animals, is identical with itch in the human race, in both of which exist parasite life in the skin, and is a cutaneous disease. The very pronounced distinction between true mange and eczema, and other causes of irritation of the skin, is that mange is caused by a parasite invisible to the naked eye, and that it is transferable by contact, from one animal to another, while eczema, blotch, surfiet or red mange, is not. And, while a whole kennel may be suffering from the latter compalints, it must be be- cause all have been subjected to conditions of life occasioning derange- ment of the system, eczema remains an individual disease, and is never transmitted. True mange resembles itch in man, as it is due to a small parasite that burrows or tunnels through the skin in all directions, draw- ing its nourishment therefrom. The female deposits her eggs In the canals formed, which hatch out in about two weeks; the young continue bur- rowing and occasion intense itching. True mange is entirely a local affec- tion, and the uneasiness and loss of sleep causes the animal to continually scratch and bite itself in Its vain efforts to allay the intolerable pain and itching. This has a very debilitating effect upon the system, and will soon transform a healthy and sleek coated pet into a loathsome object. The cause is invariably the result of having met some dog or other animal that w*§ affected with mange. One dog meeting another or occu- 108 DISEASES r ' ' ' "">~"1 pying his kennel or sleeping quarters, or being shipped in a crate that was used by a dog with mango, will surely contract it. Absolute clean- liness is necessary in the treatment of mange. When your dog shows signs of mange, remove it immediately from its quarters to new ones, burn the bedding it has used, wash its kennel with boiling water, to which has been added the Standard Disinfectant, or Sanitas (See advertisement of both in this book). Either one, if thoroughly applied, will destroy every parasite in the kennel. Now give your dog a good bath with Eberhart's Dog Soap, using quite as Warm water as the dog c ■ : i ii stand, cleansing its entire body and opening the pores of the skin. After drying the dog thoroughly, then apply Eberhart's Skin Cure all over the dog, rubbing it in well with your bands and not. missing a spot on tbe dog's body, for if yon do you leave some parasites — a very busy and industrious pest they are — and in a day later many new- born ones would be hard at work again. Take plenty Of lime in putting on 'this skin cure, using "plenty of elbow grease,*' applying it the same as you would a liniment. Repeal this the next day, and probably Eor two days more, the bath not being strictly essential except the first day. If you wish, or the dog is a house dog. you can give It a bath after the skin cure has been on for ball' an hour, for it has then done its work, this bath simply to put the dog in more presentable and cleaner shape, as all skin or mange cures contain oil of some kind and are therefore greasy. There are several good mange cures aside I'tom mine. Ordinarily a case of mange should be cured in a week or two, and after three or four applications all over the dog, it is only necessary to apply it daily to the sore places, or where no hair, as my skin remedy is, also, a great hair grower, and never fails to restore the hair, unless tbe hair roots have been destroyed — when nothing will bring back the hair. It is not necessary to change the food in treating mange. A very good mange euro is the following: Train oil ""4 gallon Venice turpentine 2 ounces Oil of tar y 2 ounce Lac Sulphur • 1 pound First mix the oil and turpentine and then add the oil of tar and sulphur. Your druggist may not have train oil, as it is often hard to procure. If so, common "black oil" or crude petroleum will do just as well. All mange cures should bo applied the same as directed in vising mine. ■"■""he following, as a dip, was recommended by a friend, who used it in his kem.ols. The only objection I can see is that it would not do to use in cold weather: "For quick cure of mange use 1 quart of Standard Oil of Tar to 10 quarts of water; have water as hot as possible without scalding or burning band, mix thoroughly, place liquid In small narrow tub, one that will just f»l the dog if possible; place dog In tub, take >. cup and pour the liquid all ovur him, Beginning at head, just below ears; saturate dog thoroughly, loosen up all old scabs, applying well tbe eure to affected parts. Take stiff DISEASES 109 brush, wet with liquid, brush dog thoroughly; remove dog from tub, give him a bed of clean straw to roll in, do not rinse off with clean water or rub skin dry. Do not allow dog to roll in dirt immediately after his wash, as he will if not chained up or placed in a room. Rolling in sand after a wash will irritate the sores and make the cure all the harder. When about dry. the sore spots may be touched up with equal parts of water and Standard Oil of Tar. In curing mange, the bedding must be changed every day, wash all woodwork where dog rubs, once every week with hot waicr in which has been placed Standard Oil of Tar." There is no use in taking medicine unless you follow your doctor's advice, so don't expect the desired result unless you follow directions, as one or two applications will not effect a cure in a case Of mange. Mange can be cured, no matter how bad a case it appears to be, if you go at it right and have the right remedy, in fact, it is one of the easiest to cure of all troubles. The reason why so many people dread this disease is be- cause of their failure to cure what they wrongly suppose is mange, when it perhaps is eczema, which is a much longer story, but can also be cured and the treatment of which is given under that heading. Remember, that* if you have more than one dog, the others will get it unless the afflicted one is removed and isolateu in time. The advantage of having a regular kennel or place for each dog to sleep is manifest in treating the dog for mange, as thus you can disinfect his kennel and destroy the bedding, which are both infected, whereas, if your dog was sleeping any place he wanted to in your house, this would be a very difficult matter, and while you cured him he could again contract it by coming in contact with the parasites that had not been destroyed. You need not have any fear of con i racting mange from your dog; I have treated many cases for years past and never got it — not transmit- able from the dog to man. There are several skin diseases called by different names, or desig- nated as different kinds of mange, but the treatment I have given for mange, and the one for eczema, about covers the whole ground of skin trouble, or, my remedy will cure them all, excepting that in some of them, as in eczema, internal remedies must also be used at the same time to work on the blood. Eczema is fully treated elsewhere. Carbolic acid is used in many mange cures, a dangerous ingredient unless carefully used and in small quantities. My long-time friend, Harry \Y. Lacy, editor of American Fancier and Stock-keeper, has this to say of mange read it also: "It is quite true that eczema or red mange is to some extent con- tagious, but we have not found it to be so to any extent which would justify the term being applied to it. It is desirable, always to keep a dog affected with skin disease away from other dogs, because constant contact in the kennel or at play is liable to give rise to an exchange of skin complaint. On the other hand, a dog with distemper, which is very contagious, is made to give it to animals which never come mar to him, and a dog with fleas will furnish a supply to ail his fellows in the neighborhood. In most cases mange is, however, not due to contact by the victim with another mangy cur, but is due to out-and-out neglect. Mange is never known in kennels where the dogs are properly looked after; it is a cultivation of the HO DISEASES back-yard, and thrives best upon the poor chained-up brute that is more human than his owner who keeps him chained there'. In a word, filth ia the soil on which alone the sarcoptic parasite can thrive. "A dog with ordinary skin irritation, developing into redness and rash, has acquired that in one of two ways. Either he has an hereditary predisposition to skin complaint (and here let it be said that this heredi- tary predisposition is a very common fact, and is due undoubtedly in a great measure to the in-breeding which has been carried on to a greater or less extent in all breeds) or else he is suffering from impurity in the blood which may be clue to over-feeding or liver complaint or want of sufficient exercise or any one of a dozen other things. If the former be the case it is by no means probable that a cure will be effected, and the most important thing that can be done is in the direction of preventing the disease from being handed down to other generations. If it is intended to breed from the dog it should be mated with the newest blood possible — that is to say with an animal having a very different pedigree from its own. The disease is certain to reappear even after the dog has been apparently cured. A ^hange of diet or of weather will always be liable to precipitate a fresh attack." The following treatise on mange was written by Dalziel, and to it your attention is called. A very able handling of the subject: Sarcoptic Mange — The mite producing this most nearly resembles the itch-mite of man, and as it is propagated by eggs, and transmitted by contact, direct or indirect, there seems nothing impossible in the idea of stamping out this chief "enemy to the comfort of a brave spaniel," if only we could get every clog owner to be careful and clean. There is much virtue in an "if;" but at least we can learn from the facts about the mange-mite that we need not harbor it in our own kennels, and by stamping it out there, lessen it generally. Dirt unquestionably harbors and encourages mange, although it does not produce it; left undisturbed by cleansing pro- cesses, the pests breed and multiply with great rapidity. When the mite reaches the dog, it burrows into the skin; the pro- cess, and also a poisonous fluid discharged by the creature, causes intol- erable itching, and to relieve this the dog scratches, with the result that the skin is broken, small red points appear, and these become pustular and discharge a fluid which dries or crusts and forms a scab; the hair falls off. The multiplication of the original cause of the evil is rapid, and, left unchecked, the whole surface of the body soon becomes involved, while the poor dog is an object of pity, and from want of rest and other causes sinks into a helpless condition. This state is often called virulent or scabby mange, and presents many of the characteristics of Blotch. The skin is harsh, dry, and rough, until small pimples appear, when therefrom oozes a purulent matter, forming scabs, which mat the hair together, and bring it off in patches as the dog rubs or scratches himself. The back, breast, and inside of the thighs are generally the first places attacked, and every crease and wrinkle in the skin becomes inflamed and moist with the irritating discharge. If the disease is left unchecked, it soon extends over the whole body, reducing the dog to a deplorable condition, disgusting to all who see him and intolerable to himself. These are severe and extreme eases. In others a dry, scurfy mange exists, marked by little red spots, ' ~ DISEASES 111 and confined to the joints of the legs, over the eyes, the flaps of the ears, etc.: and this may exist for some time without other damage than causing the dog great uneasiness and injury to his appearance by partially destroy- ing the hair and robbing it of its natural glossy appearance. The first thing to be done with a mangy dog is to wash him. Let him have a good sousing and scrubbing with a good soap and water, "hottish rather but not so boiling as to turn him red;" dry well with a soft cloth, which mast immediately be boiled, and then dress him with one or the other of the several well known mange cures. Whatever you use, see that it is applied thoroughly; see that it reaches the skin where the mites are, and is not merely left on the hair. Chronic cases of mange often take a month or two to cure. Sulphur is given as an internal remedy for mange, but it is not of any use, in mange. Follicular Mango is due to another mite (Demodex folloculorum), very different in appearance from the other (Saroptes), which are short and thick, whereas this, the Demodex, is elongated, and with a long, obtuse tail. These parasites differ in their habits, the Demodex living in the hair-follicles, and burrowing deep under the skin in the sebaceous gland that supplies the unctous matter to protect the skin and keep it soft. The depth to which the Demodex burrows renders Follicular Mange much lets easy of transmission between dogs; but it also makes a cure much more difficult, as the parasites are hard to reach. This mite is identical with a parasite found in the human skin causing some disfiguration of the face, but further than that it does no harm until transferred to the dog, when it causes a most repulsive disease, and one very difficult to •radicate. Some few yean ago Mr. Wm. Hunting, F.R.S.V.S., in conjunction with Profes»or Duguid, made a series of investigations and experiments in eluci- dation of this disease, and the following description of symptoms and the diagnosis are from an article by the former gentleman, which appeared in the Veterinary Journal, and afterward in pamphlet form: "The symptoms of the disease are seldom seen in the first stages; they consist merely of circumscribed spots from which the hair fallsy and upon which are noticeable a few small pimples. These patches extend rapidly, and fresh ones appear on other parts. Any portion of the skin may be affected, but the head, legs, belly, and sides, are usually the seat of the disease. The affected places are almost hairless, and what hair remains is easily pulled out; small pimples and pustules stud the surface, the latter varying in size from a pin's head to that of a pea. The confluence of the pustules, and the discharge of their contents, give rise to scabs; these crack and bleed, and so produce a most repulsive appearance. In white-haired dogs Ihe skin is red; in all it is extremely hot, and emits an unpleasant odor. The irritation does not excite much scratching, but the dog frequently shakes himself. More pain than itshing seems to accompany the disease. In cases where the whole body is affected loss of condition is most marked; and in cold weather the almost total loss of hair may cause death, if the animal be not kept in a warm place. This stage, too, is always accom- panied by ravenous appetite, due, probably, to the rapid loss of animal heat. 112 DISEASES "Diagnosis. — In white clogs the color of the skin may cause the disease to be mistaken for 'Red Mange' or 'Eczema.' The circumscribed spots in the first stages may be confounded with some forms of Tinea, and the loss of hair and the presence of scabs seen in the fully developed disease may easily be mistaken for ordinary scabies. The pustules, the heat of the skin, and the comparatively slight itchiness shown, are, however, nearly diagnos- tic. Positive diagnosis can only be made by the aid of the microscope and the detection of the parasite. If we puncture one of the pustules, and mix its contents on a slide with a little water, the acari are easily discovered. I have found as many as thirty to one pustule. Sometimes we may detect them on the root of a hair removed from an affected spot. With a low power, the parasites somewhat resemble sprats or minnows, but a higher power shows them to consist of a head and body, which latter terminates in a long and obtusely pointed tail. They are furnished with six or eight legs situated on the anterior part of the body, three or four on each side. The head consists of two antennse and a median proboscis, all of which are capable of being moved forward or backward. The legs consist of three segments. The movements of the creatures are not often seen, and are very slow. The parasite measures about one-hundredth of an inch in length by one five-hundredth in breadth." "In regard to treatment, Fleming, in Veterinary Sanitary Science, says "The situation of the Demodex renders it almost inaccessible to parasi- tical remedies; the disease it engenders is therefore looked upon as ex- tremely troublesome, and, in the majority of cases, almost beyond a cure. Often, when it is believed to be extinguished, it reappears in all its viru- lence in one or two months. Nevertheless, Zurn asserts that he has fre- quently succeeded with an ointment composed of 1 part of benzine to 4 parts of lard. Zundel states that the balsam of Peru has often yielded good results when the malady has not been of too long duration; he has employed it dissolved in alcohol (1 to 30)." Symptoms of Scaroptic Mange. — In pronounced cases this disease is easily recognizable, but in the initial stages, when the hair is not much lost or broken, if complicated with eczema — which is not uncommon — diagnosis is more difficult. The first symptom is that of great irritation of the affected parts, especially on the application of heat. The symptoms first appear in the form of small red spots, which may be seen on the head, close to the muzzle, the outside of the roots of the ears, round the eyes and neck, the bottom part of the chest, the elbows, the soft skin of the stomach, behind the thighs and the feet. As a matter of fact, it may appear on any part of the body. The small red spots resemble flea bites on the human skin. These red spots are more noticeable when situated on the stomach or inside the thighs. Little blisters appear in place of the red spots, and if they are in large numbers and burst open sores appear. Injury will result from an inoculation of the skin with the contents of the blisters, which often occurs as a result of scratching or rubbing. Doss of hair will follow this, and is caused partly by the scratching and partly by the scaling of the crusts of the skin caused by the small blisters and pimples. DISEASES ' " 113 Te skin then becomes thickened and hardened. In neglected cases the general health is very much affected, as the animal gets little rest, and in weakly subjects generally results fatally. Scaroptic Mange is very readily communicated to the human subject, and is the cause in most cases of what is termed "Scabbies," and is far more common than is generally supposed. But Scaroptic Mange is comparatively easy to cure if taken in hand rightly. It is a waste of time to simply apply a mange cure to the affected parts. To complete a cure you must treat your dog internally as well as externally or you will never have a perfect cure. Here is where I should try Eberhart's Skin Remedy — and for the blood, use internally, the White Sulphur, as advised for Eczema. (See Eczema). Mouth, Canker of the — This is generally the result of dainty feeding and lack of exercise, but in old dogs it may come from failing teeth and want of masticating power. Either or both of these causes lead to disordered stomach and foul breath; a deposit of tartar takes place, the gums and lips becoming red, inflamed, and spongy, and after a time a fetid discharge from the mouth, and often accompanied with bleeding. Old animals are most subject to this trouble, and by examining you will probably find some decayed teeth, the gums being so tender that in attempting to eat, the dog suffers great pain, which he will show by his trying to chew the food for a minute, roll it about in his mouth and then drop it. To cure the disease, remove the cause. If you have been cramming the dog with delicacies, return to a sensible way of feeding and give proper exercise. Examine his mouth carefully for decayed teeth, and, if found, remove them and the rotten stumps with a pair of suitable forceps. This is not so difficult and you can do it by having some one hold the dog's head firmly, and can be done more easily than may be supposed, a very little practice making any one efficient. While his mouth is in such a tender state he must have food that requires no chewing, as well as to keep correct his disordered stomach. A vegetable diet is now the thing. Give him quite a brisk dose of the following pills: Podophyllin 6 grains Compound extract of colocynth 30 grains Powdered rhubarb 48 grains Extract of henbane 36 grains Mix, and divide into twenty-four pills. Give for grown dogs from two to four pills, according to size. After a dose of this, then use the following: Extract of gentian 1 dram i. Powdered rhubarb 3 6 grains Carbonate of soda 12 grains Gum acacia sufficient to make into twelve 10-grain pills. 114 DISEASES Very small toy dogs should have half a pill. Give these twice a day until all the symptoms have disappeared. A most excellent wash for the mouth in order to remove the unpleasant smell, is a solution 6f chlorinated soda, diluted with twenty-four to thirty times its volume of water. Wash out the mouth freely with this several times a day. The following will harden the gums and assist in bringing them to a healthy state: Take powdered alum, % ounce; simple tincture of myrrh, 1 ounce; dissolve the alum in a pint of water and add the tincture of myrrh. The ulcers that occur upon the gums should be touched with a 10 per cent solution of nitrate of silver. Milk-Glands, Inflammation of the. — See Mammltis. Meningitis. — See Brain, Inflammation of the. Milk, Absence of. — This trouble Is quite too often met with in bitches, I regret to say. Usually the result of weakness, obesity, or disease of the mammary glands. It sometimes is luckily only temporary, and the secre- tion can be restored with friction to the glands with the hand. The fol- lowing can be given to weakly bitches: Tincture cinchonae co 1 ounce Liquor cinchonae V 2 dram Spirits- of ammonia aromatic % ounce Water, to make 6 ounces Dose, a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful three times daily, according to size of bitch. Maw-AVorms. — See Worms. Mammltis, (Inflammation of the Milk-Glands) frequently occurs. Caus- es are, retention of milk, the result of taking away the puppies immediately after born, or too early, or from their death, or cold or injuries. Symp- toms are a redness and tenderness of the parts, the milk is curdled, and often puss or blood accompanies it, the former if abscesses have formed. Very highly important that such cases should be attended to at once. As quick as first symptoms are noticed foment the parts with warm water during the day, being careful to dry well afterward. If caused by the retention of milk by the bitch having lost her puppies, or they were taken away from her, the milk must be drawn away frequently by the hands. ' Where possible, and the bitch will permit, a puppy should be given her. Give her one to two drams of epsom salts with from ten to twenty grains of bicarbonate of soda twice daily in water, until the bowels are well relaxed. By adopting this treatment in the early stages the inflammation will usually subside and the gland regain its normal condition. Pus or matter will accumulate in protracted cases, and abscesses form. The latter DISEASES ' 115 must be eradiated by lancing, and boracic acid lotion or ointment applied to the part nigbt and morning, and to prevent her from licking it she should have a muzzle with a piece of canvas sewn over the front. Where abscesses have formed, patches of the gland will generally become obliter- ated, and of no further use. Mammitis does sometimes assume a chronic form, the glands become enlarged and indurated. Milk Fever (Parturient Apoplexy) is uncommon in the bitch. There is clanger of causing it by robbing her of all her puppies, especially if she has plenty of milk, in a case of where she has got out on you and bred by mistake to some common dog. Drown all but one puppy as soon as born, if you don't want to raise them, but leave one to nurse for a week or so. The Symptoms are apparent weakness, staggering, quick hard breath- ing, hot dry nose and tongue, the tongue furred; the milk is suppressed, and the bitch shows extreme thirst. Treatment — Apply ice to the head, if possible; if not, then cold water often relieves the bowels by clysters. Keep her quiet and as little disturbed as can be, a soft bed provided so the head will be somewhat elevated. This is very important. Also give Glover's and Clayton's Distemper Cure every two or three hours in teaspoonful doses for ordinary sized dogs, for a day ■or two, until she is better, which will allay the fever. The bitch should be milked two or three times a day. If a caked breast appears treat this as prescribed under that heading. In Milk Fever when the bitch is uncon- scious, nourishment, such as brandy and milk, can be given her rectum. The bladder must be emptied by means of the catheter. Navel Hernia, or Rupture. — An enlargement of the navel, often met with in puppies, and may be simply an expansion of the same, or cicatrice. Navel hernia is the protrusion of a portion of the intestine — the membra- neous covering of the bowels. It may be caused by extra strain at birth on the umbilical cord, or the tongue of the mother may extend the wound. It is a soft, movable tumor over the navel, varying in size, and most prom- inent when the stomach and bowels are full. I have seen it occur in pup- pies, but so slight that I did not do anything for them, it doing no harm, and only leaving a small lump that was never noticed as they grew up, the hair on the belly hiding it. In treating puppies for it, wait till they are weaned and separated from their mother, or she will, with her tongue, remove or displace the application. Now take the puppy in the morn- ing, before his breakfast, when bowels are empty, lay him on his back on your lap, and place over the enlargement a pad of vulcanized India rubber or cork, tapered, the smaller end being applied on the tumor after it has been pressed in, and the pad secured by strips of white leather smeared with warm pitch plaster, well stuck to the belly so pup can not scratch it off with its feet. A cure can be effected in a few weeks if the pad is kept in place. Here is a case that was prescribed for by Dent: "My pointer puppy, ten weeks old, strong and healthy, has a rupture right under its belly, near the ribs and about the size of a very large pea. 116 ' DISEASES Will it have any bad effect on the dog after being cured? Please prescribe. Ans. — These navel ruptures frequently disappear with age and seldom cause any inconvenience. If you want to operate on the rupture, lay the dog on his back, pinch the skin up over the opening in the walls of the abdomen and pass two pins through at right angles to each other, being careful not to puncture the intestines; then tie a silk cord around the skin between the body and the pins and allow it to stay there until it sloughs off." Nephritis. — See Kidneys, Inflammation of. Obesity. — See Fatness, Excessive. Ostitis (Inflammation of the Bone) This is generally due to violence, blows, or to constitutional disturbance, like rheumatism or scrofula. Symp- toms are pain, heat and swelling of the skin at the affected part, also lame- ness. Very essential in such cases is rest, combined with hot fomenta- tions to the part and a dose of aperient medicine; when due to rheumatism, the systemic treatment recommended under Rheumatism, should. be adopt- ed; and should there be an enlargement left after the acute inflammation has subsided, the part should be painted daily with tincture of iodine, unless soreness is produced, when this treatment should cease for a day or two. Ozoena. — This complaint shows itself by a discharge from both nos- trils. The causes are diseased teeth, protracted catarrh, causing chronic inflammation of the lining membrane of the nose, polypi, or inflammation of the sinuses of the nose, due to the presence of foreign matter in that organ. Where the disease is due to decayed teeth, the latter should be extracted; or to polypi, these should be removed. The nostrils should be syringed night and morning with a saturated solution of boracic acid; or the tincture of hydrastis is often useful — 1 part of tincture to equal parts of water. Exercise and fresh air are very necessary to recovery. Poisoning. — A dastardly act is to poison a dog, and no punishment is too severe to inflict on the cowardly cur who does it. If I could have my way about it, the cur that poisons a dog would hang by the neck till he was dead, a proper punishment, properly fitting the crime. If you are so unfortunate as to have your dog poisoned, keep your eye open on your neighbors — who perhaps are unfortunately such degenerates that they do not like dogs. Bide your time, but never give up trying to land the cur who poisoned your dog, and then, if you can not have positive proof enough to punish him or her legally, try some other plan quietly, and never give up until you have in some way punished the one who killed your dog. I am devoting considerable space to this subjett, as it is important, and advise that you study this article well, so that if you are so unfortunate as to ever have a dog poisoned, you may know what to do promptly, and perhaps save your dog. It may be of service to some readers io briefly refer to a few of the DISEASES 117, commoner and more popularly known poisons from which are dogs are most likely to suffer; and I think the following will cover the majority of cases: Arsenic, cantharides, carbolic acid, corrosive sublimate, phosphor- ous and strychnine. As. a general rule for distinguishing between the evidence of poisoning and the symptoms of disease, the suddenness of the attack must weigh largely; while by tracing where the dog has been, and what he has or is likely to have picked up, a pretty accurate conclusion may be arrived at. The first step to be taken in most cases is to freely empty the stomach by means of emetics such as tartar emetic, sulphate of zinc, ipecacuanha wine, one of the most useful and least dangerous to use. The dose is from 3 drams to 8 drams in a little warm water. If none of these are at hand, by drenching with lukewarm water, and afterwards giving the antidotes indicated if procurable. If the dog suffer much pain, a dose of opium or laudanum every three or four hours. Where gieat depression and weakness follow, stimulants, as ether, wine, or brandy, should be given in small quantities at frequent intervals. Arsenic is used to poison rats, mice and other vermin; in this way it is frequently met with in and about country houses. Symptoms: Great heat and evident pain in the stomach and bowels, sometimes accompanied with swelling — the belly being very tender to the touch — great thirst, frequent vomiting and retching, more or less discharge of a frothy saliva, and frequent evacuations of fluid, dark colored matter, often marked with blood. The animal soon loses muscular power to a great extent, showing an indisposition to move; the tongue, lips, etc., are red and swollen, and the breathing is more and more labored and painful. Antidotes: Ferrugo or hydrated sesquioxide of iron, 12 parts of which combine with 1 part of arsenic, froming an insoluble compound; also light magnesia, which will remove l-25th its weight of arsenic from its solution in water. Cantharides (Spanish Fly). — This is given by ignorant men for pur- poses which are defeated; but, being an acrid, irritant poison, it produces serious results, frequently causing inflammation of the urinary organs. Symptoms: Violent thirst, copious discharge of bloody mucous from the stomach, mixed with which may be seen the shiny green particles of the "flies;" there are great pains in the loins and bowels, swelling and inflammation of the genital organs, and bloody stools and urine. Antidotes: An emetic should at once be resorted to, the dog should afterwards be drenched with demulcents, and a dose of opium given every three or four hours. Carbolic Acid — This produces baneful effects, even by absorption through the pores of the skin, when too freely used. It causes great pros- tration, with trembling of the whole frame. Symptoms: Extraordinary depression of the vital powers, general shivering and almost constant trembling of the limbs, and a palsied motion of the head. Bleeding at the nose is a frequent symptom, and the dis- 118 DISEASES charges from the bowels are also often stained with blood; the counte- nance of the sufferer is expressive of a most helpless and painful state. Antidoes: The proper treatment consists in placing the dog in a warm bath, using friction the while, and administering such stimulants as am- monia, ether, brandy, etc., in water or gruel. Corrosive Sublimate is used for a variety of purposes about farms, al- though for most of these it must be admitted a non-poisonous article would answer as well or better. Corrosive sublimate, phosphorous and strych- nine each enters into the composition of paste and powders largely sold for the destruction of vermin, and it is when so used, being placed on bread and butter, bits of meat, etc., that they are most likely to be picked up by the dog. Symptoms: Violent vomiting and purging of stringy and offensive matter, the belly is distended and painful to the touch; the urine suppress- ed, cramp and twitches are noticeable in the limbs, and frequently paraly- sis ensues. Antidotes: Tartar emetic as an emetic; white of egg, followed imme- diately by infusion of galls; milk or gluten of wheat. Of the chemical anti- dotes, the albumen of eggs is by far the best; the white of one egg is sufficient to neutralize or render insoluble 4 gr. of solid bichloride of mer- cury. Phosphorous. — Antidoes: Calcined magnesia, with diluents and de- mulcents given in quantity. Strichnine. — Symptoms: Acute pain, causing the dog to utter sharp cries; frequent twitchings and jerkings of the head and limbs, the fore and hind legs are drawn towards each other, the back is arched; the fits of cramp and twitching are intermittent, but are readily brought on by a touch or a sudden noise. Foaming at the mouth is another and frequent symptom. Antidotes: Give an emetic at once, mustard and hot water, coffee, salt and hot water; give lard, or any fat, in considerable quantities. "The following has saved many valuable dogs poisoned by strychnine and will save any dog if breath is Left in body. As soon as the owner is convinced that the dog has strychnine, or dog button (nux vomica), symp- toms of which are readily detected by spasms and rigid spine, give fifteen drops of homeopathy tincture of belladonia (green root). Give same dose after each spasm. If dog is too far gone to swallow, inject thirty drops in rectum. The second dose can be given by mouth. It is seldom the third dose is necessary." This I copied from letter sent to the American Field by some sportsman who had been out hunting with his pointer. He fur- ther wrote: "When I reached him he had had some twelve spasms and was rigid, tongue cold, eyes turned, etc. Three doses brought the dog out and some thirty quail were killed over him the next day." Here are also other antidotes that are used in cases of poisoning: Strychnine is most commonly used to poison dogs, and if noticed when taken sick, or even after violent convulsions have set in, they can almost diseases 119 Invariably be saved by injecting under the skin, with hypodermic syringe, LO grain doses of chloral (dissolved in water) every 15 or 20 minutes until 50 or 60 grains are used. If convulsions quiet down and dog seems better, it might be safe to stop when 30 or 40 grains have been given. It will pay any one owning a number of dogs to keep a hypodermic syringe. Dent says: The best antidote for strychnine poisoning is chloral hy- drate, size of dose depends upon the condition of the dog; in health the done is 5 to 20 grains. Dog poisoning is so prevalent in many parts of the country just now, it may not be out of place to reproduce part of Mr. A. J. Sewell's (the noted English veterinarian) article on this subject in the Kennel Gazette (Eng.), so that dog owners may be prepared for such emergencies: "In all cases of poisoning, more especially when due to strychnia, prompt action is required and means should be at once taken to make the dog disgorge what has been swallowed. An emetic that will act well and quickly must be at once administered; for this there is nothing better than a dose of apomorphia. This medicine acts in two ways; it is the quickest and surest emetic, and besides it relieves the spasms. The dose is the eighth of a grain for small dogs, and about the quarter of a grain for the large ones, given in a teaspoonful of water; but the best way of admin- istering it is by injecting it under the skin with a hypodermic syringe — than from three to eight minims of the one in fifty s'olutions is to be given. "I always advise persons who keep a number of valuable dogs to have a solution of apomorphia by them ready for emergency, for while it is being obtained the patient may die, and if huntsmen would always carry a small bottle of solution with them, many a valuable hound's life might be saved. When this medicine is not at hand some other emetic must be given. Ordi- nary table salt can be always quickly procured, and from one teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to the size of the dog, should be given in warm water. If the dose does not act freely, repeat it in a few minutes, or, instead, give from five to twenty grains of powdered ipecacuanha, or from one to three grains of tar emetic. Either of these may be shaken dry on the tongue; the dog must be made to vomit somehow, but anything like salt requiring a quantity of water is often difficult to administer, as the dog's mouth is often tightly clenched and trying to open it induces a paroxysm, during which time it is impossible to give anything by the mouth, and here the advantage of the subcutaneous injection of apomorphia comes in. This may also be repeated in a quarter of an hour if the vomiting has not been free. Besides the emetic some medicine is necessary to relieve the spasm. Fro this there is nothing better than chloral and bromide of potassium. From fifteen grains to two scruples of each may be given in from one to three tablespoonfuls of water if the dog can be made to swallow, and half the quantity of each may be given again in twenty or thirty minutes and repeated, if necessary, in half an hour. When the dog is unable to swal- low, from three to ten minims of nitrite of amyl held to the nose on a pocket handkerchief is useful. This may be repeated In a quarter of an hour, or chloroform may be given. Also inject into the rectum from one- half to two drams of laudanum, in from on to four tablespoonfuls of water, !20 DISEASES which repeat in a quarter of an hour, and again in another fifteen ininuteS if the paroxysms continue. After, the severe symptoms have passed and the dog is weak and prostrate, from one-half to two teaspoonfuls of brandy added to some milk may be administered and repeated every hour for a time.)' Ground Glass. — The symptoms are bloody passages, great pain and distress, and vomiting of blood. There is no cure for this, and it is merciful to destroy the poor animal at once, ending his suffering by chloroforming. I now conclude this article by giving one that was published in the American Stock-Keeper: "Phosphorous is a dangerous poison, and will be got from rat-paste which is left lying about, spread on bread and butter. For this give an emetic, followed by a draught of Magnesia and water. Afterwards milk and other demulcents, with a few drops of laudanum to allay pain. Mer- cury may be taken in several forms — either as Calomel, 'White Precipi- tate,' or 'Corrosive Sublimate' — all of which are accessible to dogs at var- ious times. Give large draughts of white of egg beaten up with water; an emetic first. Then diet on milk and broth. If violent purging, give a little laudanum. Sulphate of copper is in common use about farms, and so is dangerous to dogs, who may pick up and devour dead birds in a corn field in which the seed has been dressed with this poison. Its antidotes are demulcents (after the usual emetic), such as white of egg and milk, and a little laudanum later. It "will be seen from the forecoming that the treat- ment for all mineral poisons is very similar all round. "Now, as to vegetable poisons, or, to be more precise, organic poisons (minerals being inorganic). The chief of these, as far as they affect dogs and their owners, are Aconite, Belladonna, Digitalis ('Fox-glove'), Opium Strychnine and their various compounds or derivatives. First, then, Aconite, which is often given as a medicine, and of which it is easy to give an overdose. Give an emetic, and then proceed with stimulants — - brandy, etc. Keep warm, and try artificial respiration if need be. For Bel- ladonna similar treatment. Good hot drinks of stimulants. Foxglove (Digitalis)- — often prescribed for heart affections in dogs, as well as in men - — for this, after an emetic, give warm tea, followed by stimulants. Opium, the active principle of which is morphia, needs a good emetic, followed by a draught of brandy and water; every effort must be made to subdue drow- siness by brisk exercise until the effect has worn off. Lastly, Strychnine — - deadliest of poisons — a component of all vermin killers — easily recognized by its effect on the muscles. Give an emetic, followed by doses of Potas- sium Bromide every twenty minutes, and later a dose of Castor Oil. Strych- nine is, as we have stated earlier, the most active principle of Nux Vomica." Here is also, some good advice on strychnine poisoning that I found some place, and worth including: "Strychnine poisoning, unfortunately, is so rapidly fatal that the dog is usually found dead or dying. If there has been immediate vomiting or only a small dose swallowed, the chances of recovery are good when the proper means are available. If vomiting has not occurred, produce it by giving a warm solution of common salt (a tablespoonful to the pint) in large DISEASES 121 doses until the stomach is well emptied. After this the most important object is to produce stupor, and morphine, hypodermically administered, as well as being a good emetic, is a safe narcotic in the dog. In dogs over six months old one-fourth grain can be given safely for every ten pounds of live weight. This should be followed by chloroform inhalation adminis- tered lightly and kept up until the convulsions become less pronounced. Chloral hydrate is probably the best antidote in cases where it cannot be given by the mouth owing to spasm of the cheek muscles. It should be given in from ten to thirty grain doses, dissolved in an ounce of warm water, injected gently in the rectum. The dose can be repeated if con- sidered necessary every hour. The animal suould be kept as quiet as pos- sible, harsh sounds, bright lights or unnecessary handling tending to increase the severity of the convulsions." Parasites, External — The number and variety of parasites that make one part or another of the dog their habitat is very great. These are di- vided into external and internal; in the former two distinct mites, produc- ing two very distinct forms of the mange, have already been referred to, and the internal parasites are treated under Worms. There is no dog owner of much experience who is not aware that great care and cleanliness are needed to prevent the introduction of these un- welcome visitors, or who has not had to pay smartly for their extermina- tion, if his kennels have been neglected. The parasites to which I par- ticularly wish to direct attention are three in number — the louse, the flea and the tick — which now follow in order named as to treating. Dog Louse. — These resemble that of a man, only larger in size, and can not live on a human being. It causes great irritation, the dog scratching and worrying himself constantly. They live on all, or any part of the body, but most abundant about the head and face, the eyes, roots of ears, and along the top of the back. By closely examining the dog's skin, red streaks and dots of blood will be seen where the louse has been feeding. One species is described in Prof. Neumann's "Parasites," translated by Prof. Fleming: "The head is short and almost as wide as long; it is salient in the thorax to which it is exactly applied; the third and fourth articles of the antennae are alike. The abdomen is very developed in the female, and is a long oval in shape; it has nine rounded segments, which are often salient at the sides; stigmates distinct and marginal; the first seven segments have two rows of short bristles. The general tint is yellowish-white, the head and thorax being a little darker. T^he female is 2mm. long, and the male l-15mm." This louse is oftener found about the throat and back of the ears, but extends to all parts of the body. The other louse of the dog is Trichodectes latus, of which this is Neumann's description: "The head is sub-quadrangular and much wider than it is long, being truncated in front; the antennas are hairy and dif- ferent in the two sexes, the first article in the male being much thicker, and occupying a moiety of the length of the organ. The abdomen is broad, and more rounded in the female, with lateral, but no median spots. The 122 1)ISEASES color is bright yellow, spots darker; the bands on the head are blackish- brown. Length of the female is l-5mm., of the male 14mm." My dog soap will destroy lice if thoroughly and well rubbed in, allowed to remain on dog for half an hour, when you can rinse off and dry the dog. If in winter, ^cold or damp weather, you must of course be careful and not expose dog to danger of catching cold. It is the only preparation in the way of a dog soap that will kill lice, containing one ingredient which is a secret, that enables it to do such good work in exterminating the pests that dogs are liable to have, and yet perfectly harmless to the dog, even if he should lick it, being non-poisonous as well as being excellent for the coat and a great hair grower. I may here add that it is just as good in every way for use on the owner's head as it is for his dog. In using my soap to rid a dog of lice, give dog a most thorough shampooing with your hands, not missing a spot on his body from tip of nose to end of tail. Rub as close up to and around the eye as you can without getting it into the eye, but no particular harm could come if the lather get in the eye. Repeat this application the same way twenty-four hours later, this to kill the youngsters that breed every twenty-four hours. After the application has been on dog for an hour, you can then rinse in lukewarm water and dry thoroughly with a rough towel. The same care as to dog being exposed to cold air or draughts must be exer- cised as in an ordinary bath. My soap can well be termed a wonderful discovery, and it is without doubt by far the best dog soap ever made. Here is another treatment to givo: "Lice, the presence of which gives rise to the affection sometimes termed phthiriasis, are of common distribution, as parasites throughout the animal kingdom. Two varieties affect the dog, namely, the Hcemato- pinus Piliferus, and the Trichodectes Latus.' The first of these, as a rule, Is chiefly found about the head, ears, etc., but may wander over any part of the body; the second is found over various other parts of the body, and appears to play an important part in the life history of the tapeworm, the eggs of which it may eat, and so act as an 'intermediary bearer' of the internal parasite, which finds its way into the alimentary canal through the accidental swallowing by the dog, of the external parasite. "Both species of parasite are destitute of wings, yellowish grey or yellow in color, and have their mouths specially adapted for sucking. Pediculi always cause more or less itching, consequently a tendency to ■cratch. This is not all, but in many cases they lead to the formation of scabs. "The female is larger than the male, and deposits her eggs, or nits, upon the hairs, attaching each one thereto by a tough transparent sheath. The female lays about 50 eggs, wEtich are hatched in two days. Treatment. — It is not usually a very difficult matter to get rid of lice. Thorough cleanliness is essential, with disinfection and destruction of all material with which the animal has been in contact. Sucking pups are frequently affected, in which case the treatment must be directed to both parent and offspring. After cleansing of the kennel, destruction of the bedding material, etc., the former should be washed with soft soap and warm wat«r, afterwards dressed with the following solution: Stavesacre seads 1 ounce, water 1 quart. The seed must be boiled for about an hour DISEASES 123 in Water, and then adding sufficienl water to bring if up to a quart again. With this the dog should be thoroughly dressed from head to tail, taking care not to leave one hair untouched. It is certain death to both parasite and eggs. After 24 hours it may be washed off, and, if necessary, applied again. The suckling pups must be combed before being given back to their mother. This must be repeated daily, until they are perfectly free from vermin. They may also be dressed with the same solution, but it should be diluted, five ounces of camphor being added to five ounces of camphor water. Of course washing is here inadmissable. Another remedy, which is equally effectual, is a weak solution of lime and sulphur lotion, whilst for animals of a more mature age, it may be used of the ordinary strength." The following will also destroy lice: Flour of sulphur 1 pound Unslacked lime y 2 pound Water 1 gallon Slake the lime in the water, stir in the sulphur, adding water gradually until it is of a creamy consistence, then add the remainder of the gallon and boil down to half a gallon; let it stand till cool, pour off the clear liquid, and make the quantity to two and a half quarts with cold water. If the coat and skin is thoroughly saturated with this, and left on for ten minutes, the vermin will all be dead, when the dog should then be well washed, using warm water, and thoroughly combed and dried. This may be too strong a solution for delicate toy dogs with tender skins, and can be reduced in strength by adding equal parts of water to one of the lotion. If any doubt exists as to this, first try the weaker solution. Another and a harmless and non-poisonous remedy for lice is Eber- hart's Skin Cure, which will do the work if w r ell rubbed in, never missing a spot on the dog, allowed to remain in for half an hour, and applied again twenty-four hours later. These dressings should be repeated in eight days, in order to destroy the young lice from the "nits" or eggs, laid before the previous dressing. Here, I give also, a very good article on Lice, which I found some- where, and it is worth including: "Lice cause great irritation and will eventually, if means are not taken to rid the dog of the living burden, take the blood out of the dog and even- tually cause death. Of course that is extreme, but a bunch of such para- sites if not heroically handled will soon get ahead of the operator and then there is nothing to do but shave the animal and give it a strong soaking in some mixture that will kill the 'nits.' Mercurial ointment is a sure knocker, but it is not advisable for the novice to use unless in- structed in its application and the precaution to be taken that the dog does not lick the ointment afterwards and thus become more or less poisoned. This is obviated by muzzling until the ointment wears off, or is washed off. The best thing we have found is an emulsion made of one-third very hot milk mixed with two-thirds kerosene oil. We generally mix it in a kandy bottle with a shake stopper and opening the coat drop in the emul- 124 DISEASES sion which of course must be well shaken while being applied. The milk counteracts any blistering of the skin that might arise from the application of the oil alone. This kills everything living and saturates the eggs which are the source of course of future trouble, and the reason some people find it impossible to get rid of lice while the dog lives. This treatment is not only death to lice, but life to the coat, bringing it out in glossy profusion. The milk must be very hot, but not boiling or it will curdle in the oil. When the emulsion has dried in, it is well to wash the dog, though this is not absolutely necessary unless the odor of kerosene is offensive. However many cures one may make the best one is prevention and the measures to be adopted will occur to any intelligent dog owner. At the same time if it is a case of the home dog as above, it is very difficult to handle and unless periodic treatment is given the dog the trouble will get ahead before you are aware. In the kennels one may adopt heroic measures in the way of burning partitions and the like nests, but in a kitchen, however clean, it may be kept, there are little nooks and cracks that cannot be so strenuously treated, for the dog may lie around in many places. Applications of strong disinfectants like 'Standard Disinfectant' is very good for this purpose." — See their ad. in this book. Naturally dogs that are kept in clean auar* Q rs and groomed every day do not have lice unless, as we hinted above, they touch some dog that has lice or come in contact with some place where lice dogs frequent. This may seem superfluous advice to the wise owner of dogs, but it is just this ignorance on the part of novice owners of dogs that breeds lice and kin- dred parasites, that start skin troubles and all sorts of derangements sauced by continual scratching and the nervous condition in which a dog infested with lice soon finds itself. The emulsion spoken of above may be used with safety on any dog. Should a pet dog start any such trouble, rubbing with alcohol will usually put a quietus on the vermin. The writer has just tried, for the first time, "Standard Disinfectant," on an Irish setter that came back from a show with lice he got there, and in two thorough applications, using a stiff brush to apply it, I cleared this dog of the lice. I put three ounces "Standard Disinfectant" in a pail, then added a gallon of water to it, and then used a sponge for his head — ■ then use a stiff brush for rest of his body, legs and tail, applying it liberally. In ten minutes after I thoroughly dried him with rough towels. Only two applications were necessary in his case, as I did not miss a spot on him, but sometimes it might be necessary for more applications, if you had missed a few lice. A special article from Field and Fancy: Pleurisy — Covering the lungs and reflected over the walls of the chest is a very fine, smooth, delicate, glistening membrane known as the pleura. This membrane is moistened by a fluid that, in connection with the smooth, polished surface of the membrane, permits of the easy, frictionless move- ments of the lungs during breathing. Sometimes as a result of wounds, bruises or injuries, more commonly as the result of colds and occasionally for no appreciable cause, this membrane becomes inflamed, and we have a — - « — DISEASES 125 most painful disease known as pleurisy. In this disease the lubricating fluid previously mentioned disappears. The glistening surface of the mem- brane becomes swollen and roughened, so that in breathing the part of the membrane covering the lungs and the part reflected over the walls of the chest rub together and make breathing a most painful process. This stage lasts about twenty-four hours, and then the lubricating fluid that disappears at the first sign of the disease begins to reappear in increased quantities and there is a general effusion into the chest cavity on the affected side. In some cases this effusion is so great as to almost or completely fill the space formerly occupied by the lungs, and they are compressed into a small mass and rendered entirely useless. In acute attacks of this disease that terminate in recovery there is, in a few days, a reabsorption of this fluid, and the pleura regains its normal condition. If the reabsorption of the fluid in the cavity is slow or delayed and extends over a period of two or three weeks the patient is left with what is known as chronic pleurisy. Symptoms: In some cases there is a soreness of the chest for two or three days to which no attention has been paid; in other cases there is a severe chill, accompanied by shivering and intense pain in breathing, so that the animal does not completely fill the lungs, but takes short, quick, catchy breaths. There is a cough and all the symptoms of fever, such as restlessness, increased thirst, loss of appetite, watery eyes; anxious, wor- ried expression; hot, dry nose and coated tongue. The veins of the eyeball and lips darken in color. The animal lies on the affected side so as to allow the opposite lung more opportunity to expand. An examination of the chest will show a restrained movement of the lungs. The characteristic sounds- in the first stage, are a dry, grating, rasp- ing sound caused by the inflamed and roughened surfaces of the pleurae rubbing against each other. After effusion of the liquid has taken place, we have the second stage of the disease. This is easily determined by per- cussion. Press two or three fingers of one hand flat and firmly against the chest wall and strike them with one or two fingers of the other hand. The blows should be quick, short and light. Strike only once on each spot, and move the hand quickly from one spot to another until the entire chest has been covered. If this be done to both the well and affected side, a rapid comparison can be made of the difference in sound. If the sound given forth is dead, flat and woodeny, it denotes an absence of air in that part of the chest and indicates that the chest cavity is filled with fluid and the lung compressed into a solid mass. On auscultation the respiratory sound is entirely suppressed or only faintly heard. An examination of the chest of normal dogs both by auscultation and percussion will familiarize the owner with the natural sounds so that he will have no difficulty in recognizing the departures and variations in disease. The pulse in pleurisy is quite diagnostic of the disease, being quick, hard, wiry and much faster than normal. The temperature varies from 101 to 103. Prognosis: Pleurisy, although a painful disease, is simple as com- pared to pneumonia or bronchitis. As a rule only one side is affected, and in the absence of pus, the disease generally terminates favorably. Treatment: In diseases of the chest as in all other diseases, diet and hygienic surroundings are of the utmost importance. The object in the 126 DISEASES first state is to relieve the pain and suffering and if possible, to check the progress of the disease. This is best accomplished by giving a dose of Dover's powder, varying in size from five to thirty grains, depending upon the size of the dog. This will relieve the pain, quiet the patient and thus limit the constitutional disturbance. The chest jacket, described in the treatment of pneumonia, should then be applied, as it is a great protec- tion. If a dose or two of Dover's powder early in the disease, does not check its course, the following prescription may be used: Morphine Sulphates ■ two grains Tr. Aconite Rad twenty drops Aquae three oz. Ft. Mist Sig. Dose is one teaspoonful, every four hours, until the animal is quiet and inclined to sleep. If the fluid within the chest cavity docs not disappear within a week, there is danger of its becoming purulent. A veterinary surgeon or physi- cian should be called in to tap the chest, low down and far back and draw part of the fluid with an asperating needle or a trochar and canula. If the bowels do not move freely, they can be opened and kept so by the syrup of buckthorn in tablespoc-nful doses, repeated as often as may be necessary. If the animal is very weak, or the general strength seems to be impaired by the use of these laxatives, they should be dispensed with. Keep up the animal's strength by feeding raw, lean beef, chopped fine, raw eggs, milk punch, mutton broths and anything he will eat of a nour- ishing nature. After the fever abates and the crisis has passed, the emul- sion of cod liver oil in tablespoon ful doses should be given three or four times a day. A good tonic pill is prepared as follows: / Sulphate of Quinine 12 grains Sulphate of Iron 12 grains Extract of Gentian 12 grains Powdered Ginger 12 grains Diastase 3 grains Pepsin 2 4 grains Make into twelve pills and give one night and morning. Pneumonia — See Lungs, Inflammation of. An inflammation of the substance of the lungs is generally the result of exposure to cold and damp. The first stage of the disease is announced with shiverings, followed by fever. Sometimes, in the worst cases, it is accompanied by pleurisy, which is inflammation of what is called the lung-case, and, in such instances, it usually proves fatal. In fact, whether the pneumonia is or is hot accom- panied by pleurisy there is always some risk of a fatal termination. Pneumonia admits of no delay in management, but must be treated al once i> v giving a solution of acetate of ammonia to reduce the fever-— GERMAN SHEPHERD DOGS ELHVIEW KENNELS ELMHURST, PA. = THE HOME OF THE CHAMPIONS = 1NTERNATIONAL CHAMPION APPOLLO VON HUNENSTEIN P.H. We can supply dogs of all ages for show, pets or work. The greatest selection of stud dogs in this country. AT STl 1>. International Champion Apollo von Hunenstein, Champion Austria. 1913, Belgium 1913, French 1914. Champion of record in America FEE $50.00 Champion Nero Affolter FEE $50.00 For further information write 512 SCRANTON LIFE BLDG., SCRANTON, PA. 128 DISEASES castor oil having first been given in a liberal dose. The dose of the so- lution of acetate of ammonia for a matured dog (one over a year old) would be for a fox terrier or an English setter, a teaspoonful every three or four hours until fever is subdued. Larger dogs like a St. Bernard, greyhound or a Great Dane, a teaspoon and a half could be given. If the malady is not checked at this stage, it quickly passes on into a second stage, when hepatization takes place. The cough now is frequent and accompanied by expectoration, and respiration is performed with great effort and pain, and the general expression is haggard and pitiful in the extreme. ' "When it has reached this stage a warm poultice of linseed meal should be placed in the region of the lungs, and be renewed several times, care being taken that after the first poultice a piece of flannel is bound over the spot, lest the patient should take a fresh chill. After the fever has subsided, tonic treatment will be necessary, and for this there is nothing better than quinine, the dose of which would be about two grains every three hours for setters and pointers, and more in proportion for larger dogs. For toy or smaller dogs one grain is enough. Solid food must be entirely withheld until the patient has quite recovered; he must be dieted on such things as beef tea, milk, broth, etc. Finally, the cure will have to be made complete by a course of some good tonic pill, in which iron is one of the ingredients. Clayton's, or Sergeant's, or Dent's Condition Pills are good to use now. I can furnish either by return mail if you cannot find them in your own town. Peritonitis. — See Bowels, Inflammation of. Penis, Discharge from (Balanitis).— A great many dogs suffer from an inflammation and excited state of the organs of generation, having frequent partial erections, with a discharge of a thick yellowish matter, very loath- some if in a house dog. Treatment consists in bathing the parts frequently with cold water, giving quite a strong dose of ordinary black draught and the following medicine: Bicarbonate of soda 2 drams Bicarbonate of potash 2 drams Tincture of henbane 3 drams Mindererous spirit 1 y 2 ounce Water to make 6 ounces Dose for a toy dog up to 20 lbs. a teaspoonful four or five times a day. Larger dogs a tablespoonful. The prepuce should also be syringed with weak Condy's Fluid or a lotion of boracic acid, one scruple to six ounces of water. Give the dog barley water to drink and very little meat. Milk and broth with chopped green vegetables (cooked) would be most suitable in such cases. Paralysis — Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or to spinal cord. If one side of the brain is affected, the opposite side of the body will be paralyzed; but if the whole of the brain is implicated, the paralysis DISEASES 129 will be general. When it arises from injury to the spine, it is the parts behind that power , that are affected. Paralysis often follows distemper; the hindquarters suffer; in severe cases the dog losing the use of his hind legs, dragging them along. In such a case the muscles of the thigh will soon shrivel, and a cure is very rare. Chronic constipation also produces paralysis, and may come, as the result of general debility and old age. Believers in dumb rabies say that paralysis of the lower jaw renders the animal incapable of biting. Most everyone is familiar with the appearance of paralysis, the loss of muscular power and constant wasting away of the muscles in the part affected. Paralysis may be general, but is in most cases confined to one set of muscles, ranging from a slight tottering gait to complete loss of power and inability to walk. Loss of power and wasting of the hindquarter may also be caused by tapeworm. So long as the dog can use his limbs he should be given regular gentle exercise. The food must be nourishing and rather laxative. Oatmeal porridge mixed with a strong beef or mutton broth, every other day, will generally have a gentle action on the bowels, with a meal once a week of boiled liver, which will have a laxative effect. If the disease is connected with debility the strength must be gotten up by extra food, giving more than usual of cooked meat, in small quan- tities but fed oftener than usual. The medicines in paralysis are tonics, and strychnine — the active principle of nux vomica — which has a special power over the muscles and nerves. One to three grains of powdered nux vomica, according to size and age of the dog, or from one-twentieth to of?e-six- teenth of a grain of strychnine, with two to six grains of extract of gen- tian, and one or two grains of quinine made into a pill. Great care must be used in compounding the pills, containing as they do such a powerful drug as strychnine. Give a pill twice a day. In mild cases of paralysis, syrup of the phosphates, with strychnia (called Easten's syrup), is often of great service. In lieu of the latter tonics, a handier thing to do is to use Sergeant's Condition Pills, which contain strychnine and other good tonic properties. In paralysis of the hind legs the bladder generally par- ticipates, the dog being unable to stand, and cannot pass the urine freely. Use the catheter in such cases night and morning, or the dog held up and pressure applied to each side in the region of the bladder to expel its con- tents. As a preventive of bed sores and congestion of one lung turn the dog over occasionally. Here is a case that was prescribed for by Dent: "Please prescribe for my English setter dog, eight months old. Last November I hunted him through the month, in December he lost the use of his hindlegs, and in January seemed to lose the use" of all four legs; appetite was good at all times, eyes were bright, nose cold, seemed in perfect health except in his legs. I doctored him a while for rheumatism but stopped about four weeks ago, and about one week ago he seemed to get a little better. Can now use his front legs, can manage to sit up and draw himself around with a half limp, the back legs being useless now. Will he get well and is it rheumatism or is he paralyzed? Ans. — Give a teaspoonful of the syrup of hypophosphites three times a day, also give one-half grain of nux vomica twice a day. It is paralysis." i:;o DISEASES The following ia a case of Partial Paralysis, or congestion of the spina* cord, prescribed for by Dent. You might have a similar case, so I give it: "My pointer dog, three years old, weight forty-rive puunds, was taken sick last November in the field, let down in the back, has since grown worse, will now lie around and at times cry from pain; he will crawl around on his front feet and drag his hindquarters when first taken out of the kennel, then will gradually get up on his hind feet and down on his fore- feet, walking behind and crawling in front, and in a few moments will get up on all four feet, but walks very stiffly and only remains up for a short time until he goes down. Please name disease and treatment. Ans. — Give your dog one-half grain of nux vomica, five drops of Fowler's Solu- tion of Arsenic and a tablespoonful of Fellows' Syrup of the Hypophos- phites of Soda three times a day. The disease is a partial congestion of the spinal cord." Paralysis in Bitches Before Parturition. — The following case is, I am glad to say, not common. Mr. Caswell, of England, furnishes this exper- ience, and I insert it as he gives it, as it may be beneficial in similar cases, should they occur. It is probable that the extreme hot weather con- tributed to the development of the disease. The treatment was about the best, and all that could have been done: "Within the past month I have had three beagle bitches taken sick shortly* before whelping, all exhibiting the same symptoms, viz., paralysis of the hindquarters and great labor in" breathing; for this I gave stimu- lants (whisky) and rubbed the loins with mustard, also continued massage of the belly and loins. In the first case labor pains came on and the bitch had one pup, after which paralysis set in again and the remaining two pups were removed with the forceps with great trouble. The bitch died. Postmortem appearances showed that septicemia had set in. In the second case, after exactly similar symptoms, massage was again tried, and even though the bitch seemed very far gone, she revived. The best obtainable veterinary surgeon was in attandance, and decided to wait awhile before performing a Caesarian operation. Stimulants revived the bitch once more and she had five healthy pups, and is nursing them now very well. The third case started with paralysis and the bitch revived two or three times under treatment as before, then died without pupping. Postmortem re- vealed three pups, all placed rather far forward. This bitch was not within two weeks of whelping time. She showed normal appearance, was in excellent condition, had been kept in a large run and given exercise daily, as were the others. "This is the first time I have seen this paralysis in ten years of breeding. The last two bitches had reared litters all right before. Can you tell me the cause, as the veterinarians about me seem unable to do so? Also if the extremely hot weather has had anytihng to do with it." Piles. — This occurs -more frequently in house dogs or those confined too closely to their kennel, being an enlarged condition of the hemorrhoidal veini at the lower part of the rectum, presenting an enlarged, swollen and Under appearance, which gives pain when touched, ©r when the dog drags DISHASaS 131 himself along the ground. Piles are internal and external, .as they exist within or without the muscle that contacts the orifice of the anus. The disease is readily ascertained as the condition of the parts are naturally small, firm and contracted. Piles are produced by over-feeding with too much stimulating food, want of sufficient and healthful exercise, produc- ing diseases of the liver, constipation of the bowels, consequent straining and undue distension of the parts in the act of fecation. The diet in a cure of piles should be laxatives, very little meat, but a portion of boiled liver may be allowed with broth or in soups, oatmeal well boiled and vegetables. As a mild aperient a little milk of sulphur shoud be given in milk or with the food. Dose would be a heaped up teaspoonful for a dog of 20 lbs., larger and smaller in proportion. Here are some ointments, either of which can be used: Ointments for Piles. — Mild mersurial ointment, 7 parts, finely powder- ed camphor, 1 part, well mixed; or the compound gall ointment of the Pharmacopoeia may be used. Hazeline is also very beneficial. In bleeding piles the following injection may be used: Tincture of kra- meria, 2 drams, water to 6 ounces. Two ounces should be injected twice a day; while in all cases of Piles Va dram to 2 drams of tincture of krameria in water, twice a day, will be useful. In some cases of piles a tumor forms near the orific of the rectum; it is at first red, but afterward becomes purple, and finally discharges a thick fetid matter with blood. It forms a ragged sore, difficult to heal from movements of the dog in the natural act, and from dragging himself along the ground. Similar treatment to that already advised should be given, using the ointment and washing with the following lotion alternately. Wash for Tumor j — Goulard's water, % pint; laudanum, % ounce; tincture of arnica, % ounce; mixed. Periostitis (Inflammation of the Periostem, the Membrane Covering of the Bone, is not often met with in the dog, usually arising from direct in- pries. It is a most painful disease, the membrane becomes greatly inflam- ed and swollen, separated from the bone, while frequently deposits of bone the result, which cause lumps that are unsightly. The symptoms are heat and swelling of the skin over the affected parts, great pain upon manipu- lation, feverishness and lameness when it occurs in a limb. Quiet is very essential. Apply hot flannels to the part, or in severe cases, hot linseed poultices will be better. If lumps remain after the swelling has left the part, then paint these with tincture of iodine, discontinuing this when the skin becomes sore. I prefer to apply Iodin Vasigin, full strength, as it does not make the skin sore, and can be rubbed in with the hand, twice daily. Parturient Apoplexy. — See Milk Fever. Pleurisy — See Inflammation of Lungs. Pharyngitis (Inflammation of the Pharynx) — This disease frequently affeats dogs. True pharyngitis is usually due to soma foreign body lodg«d in the pharynx, although it has been caused by strong drugs given with 132 DISEASES the object of curing disease. In such cases the stomach suffers also. Symp- toms are a dry, irritating cough and a difficulty in swallowing is observed later on, the dog showing pain in swallowing; a contraction of the muscles of the throat shown, and upon manipulation the pain is plainly shown. Upon opening the mouth and examining the throat it will be found red and swollen, and unless the inflammation is checked ulceration of the throat will follow quickly; or abscesses form, which will cause a discharge through the nostrils. v t . , — _,. ^ t \ m \^ Treatment. — Ascertain the cause and try to remove it. If condition is clue to foreign matter, this must be moved, and with hot linseed poultice (kept in position by a bandage) applied to the neck. Nothing solid must be given to eat, feed milk, eggs or Bovine. This simple treatment will gen- erally effect a cure, but should ulceration occur, then paint the part with a weak solution of nitrate of silver — 2 grains of this to V2 ounce of distilled water — night and morning with a camel's hair brush. If ulcera- tion is severe and granulations present, touch the latter with "London Paste," best applied on the point of a probe, around which is rolled a piece of wool. If pharyngeal abscesses form they must be lanced to empty contents. The dog will be left in a debilitated state when the acute symp- toms have subsided, due to the general constitutional disturbance accom- panying the disease. A tonic should now be given. Clayton's or Dent's Condition Pills will be just the thing to use for a while. Polypus. — A tumor growing on some mucous membrane, the nose, or the vaginal passage being attacked by a stalk or pedicle, varying in length and thickness. The tumor is smooth, of a red color, shaped like a pear and when small is concealed from view, but protrudes as it grows. It discharges a mucus matter often tinged with blood and generally offen- sive in smell. The treatment is simple, consisting in the removal of the polypus by tieing a white silk thread or piece of fine silver wire around the neck. Tighten this daily for a few days, until the neck is cut through and the tumor drops off. Then bathe the parts freely with Goulard Water. If fever exists, a dose of cooling medicine will suffice, but this is rarely ever necessary. Prolapsus Ani. — This sometimes occurs in pampered house dogs that are old and too fat, and from insufficient exercise which produces constipa- tion and causes straining. The protruding part should be cleansed, pressed back into place, and cold douches used frequently. Diet should be laxative and exercise must be given. If the prolapsis recurs, a stitch of two can be inserted. The diet must then consist entirely of milk. Prolapsus, or Falling, of the Vagina is characterized by a soft, red swelling, and generally occurs during, or immediately after the period of heat. It must be carefully washed with lukewarm water and gently re- turned to its place. The following injection should then be used for a few days, and one of the powders given twice a day. Injections for Prolapsus. — Tannic acid and glycerine, 1 ounce; water to THE FAMOUS Melbourne English Bulldogs (THE GREATEST STRAIN IN AMERICA) More 'Winners Have Been Bred in These Kennels Than Any Kennel in the U. S. AT STUD — TWO FAMOUS INTERNATIONAL WINNERS MELBOURNE K1LMAHEW A. K. ('. 220903 (Imported) FEE $25.00 Sire of KILMAHEW — Kilbiirn Regal; dam — Lady Laurel, litter sister to the sire of Challenger, England's greatest Bulldog. KILMAHEW, before a year old, wins at the two big shows in Europe— Glas- gow, Scotland, and London, England, four firsts, six specials, three silver eiips, and special for best of all breeds. MELBOURNE DETERMINATION A. K. C. 228045 (Imported) FEE $85.00 Sire of DETERMINATION — Index- able; dam — Inspiration. DETERMINATION wins in Europe are — "The 25 Guinea Cup," at Birming- ham; gold medal, Birmingham Bulldog Club; lirst at West Bromich and Dis- trict Canine Society; Birmingham and Midland Counties Bulldog Club; Sutton, Goldfleld and Dist ri MRS. WILBUR KIRBY HITCHCOCK MAPLE FARM Mt. Washington, Mass. 1 ^BBMvJ Bo i - Young Stock Usually for Sale sfc^f^^Bfi i^aJife Posl Office Addrr*. • ALANDAR ■ - - , . Berkshire Co. Mass. FROUZY BOBBIE" (171072) At Stud TOKIO KENNELS Japanese Spaniels and Pekingese Puppies FROM $50.00 UP CHOICE SPECIMENS ONLY Mrs. L. E. DOEVILER. new London, conn. 166 DISTEMPER an'mal became impoverished and weakened through foul air, impure food or water, or defective elimination, the blood became impure or loaded with decomposed matter; and an appropriate pabulum was created in which the germs lived, multiplied and set up their specific morbid action to the detr.ment and possible destruction of the economy. The natural ccnclus en is that while the specific germ is necessary for the production of a specific disease, it is equally essential that the system be in such a condition as to afford a proper pabulum for the reproduction, which is necessary for its specific action, otherwise it would be overcome by the economy and eliminated from the system; just as grains of wheat reproduce ihemseives and are potent under proper conditions of earth, air, water and heat, or are inert and disintegrate when thier surroundings are unsuitable. "Germs do not at all times attack the same organs and membranes. But the discharge from the particular set affected contains the virus in its most concentrated form. This accounts for the dread breeders have formed, through experience, of the nasal discharges of an affected animal, and for the v'gorous objection frequently raised at a dog show by some veteran owner who has observed a careless attendant allowing the dogs to drink from a bucket he is carrying from stall to stall instead of filling the dogs' pans. * "Distemper is not transmissible to man, but is to cats, wolves, foxes, jackals, hyenas and monkeys; and as is the case in many highly conta- gious diseases, one attack successfully overcome with but few exceptions renders immunity from a second attack of the malady. One of the theo- ries advanced as an explanation of this fact is that in contagious diseases the specific poison combines with some chemical constituent of the sys- tem which is essent'al to the production of the disease, and that after tlrs constituent has been destroyed — as it will be through combining with the germ- — and the animal has recovered It is impossible for the germ to produce system'c disturbances again because the constituent necessary for its combination is absent from the system. "There are innumerable channels through which a dog may be infected with distemper. The germ is of remarkable vitality, and is conveyed through the air or on a person's clothes, or a dog which has already had the disease can convey the germ in its coat from a sick dog to a well one. The use of kennels, feeding dishes, or shipping crates that have been previously used by an affected animal are common modes of inoculation. Dog shows are a fertile source of the spread of the disease, and no matter how carefully the portable benching has been cleaned and disinfected it is always more or less a conveyance for the germs that produce the disease. "The popular fallacy of a meat diet being productive of distemper is entirely at variance with all scientific knowledge, as all carnivorous animals are markedly free from specific germ diseases. "The morbid poison of distemper attacks dogs in different ways,' but breeders and pract ; ticners as a rule recognize as typical only those cases in wh'ch the virus affects the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasal passage and produces a catarrhal discharge. In some cases the intestinal tract is the particu'ar field upon which the virus exerts itself; or the liver mav be affected, or the bronchial tubes." But the action of the virus that i? least understood, and the symptoms most commonly ascribed to some other cause, is when it is concentrated upon the brain and ner- vous system, the animal dying from collapse without any premonitory s mptoms or developing epileptic spasms and convulsions, and other symptoms that the breeder ascribes to worms; and the puppy is dosed accord ngly. I have lnd such cases in my own experience as a breeder, a d mv attention has been frequently called to this condition of things bv others whose puppies have died in from a few hours to a week with all th? svmptoms of worm-fits, careful dissection, however, failing to reveal th presence of th<*se pests or any other exciting cause; and distemper, from an absence of all catarrhal and febril symptoms, would be the last thing thought of. "An attack of distemper of the ordinary catarrhal form is usually pre- DISTEMPER 167 ceded by listlessness and loss of appetite; the animal avoids the light and courts solitude; all the symptoms of a common cold will then mani- fest themselves rapidly, as sneezing, a dry husky cough and a watery discharge from the eyes and nose; the animal shivers, seeks warmth and is feverish, the pulse rang.ng from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty beats per minute; the nose is hot and dry, the lining of the eye reddened, and the small veins that radiate through the white portion are injected with blood; the tongue is coated, the secretion of saliva is dim n- ished, thiist is excessive, food is rejected and prostiation is well marked and so rapid that at the end of a week the dog can hardly stand; the bowels are irregular; in the early stages of the disease there is a tendency to con- stipation, but the matter in the intestines- through failure to digest sets up an irritation, and the discharges are more frequent and looser than in health, and the feces are dark colored and fetid. The discharges from the eyes and nose become purulent, the nostrils are covered, with a glassy, yellowish fluid, the cough increases in frequency, the bronchial tubes fill with mucus, which is coughed up, giving temporary relief; the animal vomits frothy yellow matter and is unable to retain food upon the stomach; the eyelids become glued together, resulting in blinding the patient; breathing is obstructed by matter in the nostrils; the breath becomes fetid and has a smell that is peculiar to the disease; the lips are covered with ulcers, and the animal either becomes weaker and weaker and finally succumbs, or at the end of twelve or fourteen days the symptoms mentioned above abate in intensity and the animal slowly retails its strength. Complications, however, frequently develop early in the disease, and result in the death of the animal. "One of the complications of distemper is pneumonia, or inflammation of the lungs, brought on by exposure to cold or by a weakened heart action. The animal will not lie down, but assumes a sitting position with the fore- legs braced and separated, the head hangs heavily, breathing is labored, lapid and heavy, and upon application of the ear to the chest, a dry cracking sound will be heard similar to that made when walking upon dry snow with a clean boot. "Epileptic fits are another complication, These as a rule come on suddenly. There is a slight quivering of the muscles of the face, and an anxious look around, a few staggering steps, and the animal falls upon its side and loses consciousness; the face becomes distorted, the limbs work violently, and there is a continued champing of the jaws as well fts a frothy mucus coming from the mouth; the head, limbs and body jerk violently, the convulsions gradually become less and less, though sometimes the animal comes out of them suddenly and appears dazed and scared, and will attempt, to hide in some out of the way place. "Vomiting and purging are prominent complications, and sometimes there is true dysentery in which the feces are streaked with blood. "In summing up this disease and arriving at a proper treatment we must be rn'ndful of the fact that all the symptoms of the disease are the direct results of a morbid virus existing in the system, and that the course it runs, although indefinite, is nevertheless certain, and the a'm should be directed not only at the disease, but at sustaining the system so as to enable it to withstand the debilitating effects of the virus and the febrile condition it gives rise to. The promiscuous administrations of exhaust- ing and dangerous medicines, such as many dog owners and veterinar- ians are to indulge in, cannot be too highly condemned. "Warm quarters, good care and nursing are the prime factors in the successful treatment of this disease. Judicious medical treatment is of unquestionable service in hold'ng the disease in check, a'laviating alarm- ing symptoms, preventing destructive complication and hastening convales- cence. But no matter how skillfully applied it will be without ava ; l if the nursing and attendance are neglected, whereas, many dogs, properly cared for, make nice recoveries without medical assistance. Place the patient in warm, comfortable quarters, absolutely free from drafts; see that his bedding is changed, daily, and all discharge from the nose and 168 DISTEMPER eyes sponged away as gently as possible with warm water, bo as not to disturb the patient. The food offered should be highly nutritious and easily digestible, such as beef tea or mutton broth thickened with rice or well boiled oatmeal. The feeding dishes and drinking pans must be scrupulously clean, as dirty pans will nauseate a sick animal and destroy what little appetite it may have. Scraped raw beef is very nutritious and can be mixed with gelatine; a dog will frequently eat this when it will refuse everything else. "When the appetite fails altogether and the animal refuses to eat, food must be forced down its throat at least four times a day. For this use beef extracts or beef tea with the addition of a raw egg, a cupful at a time four times a day for a fifty-pound dog; and if that quantity irritates the stomach it must be divided and given oftener. If the patient becomes very weak a little sherry or brandy must be given in milk punches to keep up the general strength. "In the first stage of the disease the bowels are generally irregular, due to the accumulation of undigested matter in the intestines; it is ad- visable to move this by a dose of castor oil, varying in quantiy from a tea- spoonful for a small dog to an ounce and a half for a large dog. "After this has operated the most useful drug I have found for rati- fying the system against the ravages of the poison and checking what would otherwise be a severe attack is hyposulphite of soda. The particular property of this drug either within or without the system is to destroy fer- ments and bacteria, and experiments have conclusively proven its benefits in all diseases where morbid poisons are at work. Blood drawn from dogs that have been given thirty grains a day for five days kept fresh for three weeks; the blood of dogs similarly treated with the exception of not having the sulphate became putrid in three or four days. Dogs that had re- ceived the sulphite in thirty grain dosps with their food for five days and were then injected with fetid pus or the purulent discharge from a glan- dered horse reeled, tottered, and were unable to walk for a few hours, but at the end of five davs recovered their health and appetite, the wound where the injection had been made healing nicely. Dogs treated similarly in every way with the exception of not having previously received the hyposulphite died in from the fourth to the sixth day with a purulent dis- charge from the eyes and nostrils, and the point where the injection was made became gangrenous. The dose of this drug is from two to twenty grains, depending upon the age and size of the patient, and the condition of the bowels; if they become too loose the dose must be decreased. "Quinine Is another drug of great value in the treatment of distemper and all febrile conditions. Its use is, however, abused from a failure to understand its real action! as a rule too large doses are given and at too frequent intervals. The action of quinine, besides lowering temperature and pulsation, is in small doses tonic and stimulating, increasing the apnetite and all digestive secretions; in large doses continued it is de- pressing and destrovs the appetite. It has remarkable antiseptic proner- ti>s, attacking and destroying all pernicious micro-organisms. A full dose (five grains for a St. Bernard) given at the first sign of lassitude and de- fection of nremonitorv svmptoms of an attack of distemper, while it mav Tint prevpnt the disease, will certainly moderate it. Its use should then be discontinued until the fifth or sixth day of the disease, when small doses of from one to five grains should be given three times a day, but discontinued if any signs of disagreeing with the dog are shown. "Pulmonary complications can be relieved bv applying hot flannels to the sides or the use of hot water bags. Hot fomentations or bandages wrung out of warm water do more harm than good, as the animal gen- erally gets chilled while they are being used. "Nitrate of potash may be given in the dog's drinking water or in s'x to fifteen grain doses; it reduces fever and stimulates the action of the kidneys. "If the pulse and temperature are very high a few doses of veratrum can be given with advantage, but not continued for more than two daya. DISTEMPER 169 The dose is from one-tenth to one-third of a grain of the powder, at in- tervals of three or four hours. "Epileptic fits and nervous symptoms are difficult to treat with any degree of success during the course of the disease. If they are due to reflex action, as from the patient cutting teeth, lance the gums; if due to worms, the system is generally too debilitated to stand the powerful drugs necessary to remove- or destroy these pests. The patient, however, can be temporarily relieved by bromide in doses of from five to twenty grains, four or five times a day, either in a capsule or a watery solution. If the excitement is extreme the bromide can be combined with from three to ten grains of chloral. The latter drug, when administered, should be mixed with syrup of mucilage to prevent its irritating the throat. "Vomiting should, if possible, be prevented by carefully selecting those foods that ihe stomach seems best able to digest, but if it is so irritable as to expel the most easily digested foods, give from two to four drops of Scheele's strength of hydrocyanic acid, combined with from two to eight grains of pepsin, which will relieve the irritability of the digestive organs and stop the vomiting. "Diarrhea must not be too hurriedly checked, unless the discharges are so frequent as to debilitate the animal. In mild cases give paregoric in from one-half to two teaspoonful doses, and if that is not effectual a mixture of from five to ten grains of chalk and from five to fifteen drops of ether and laudanum may be given in a little milk or soup. "In arriving at the proper close of the various drugs I have recom- mended, the minimum dose is suitable for clogs weighing, when developed, from fifteen to thirty pounds, and the maximum is for clogs that will weigh in the vicinity of one hundred pounds. Larger or smaller animals should have the dose correspondingly increased or decreased, as the case may be. Puppies six months of age will stand half the dose given a grown animal of the same breed, and for puppies under six months a corresponding di- minution of the dose must be made. "In conclusion I again desire to caution the owner against exposing puppies to cold during the course of the disease, or when the patient begins to convalesce. Frequently in cases of distemper a very decided improve- ment in the condition of the patient will be observed, and the owner cor- respondingly elated and encouraged by a spring-like, sunny day, particu- larly if the weather has been previously damp and stormy, he will admit the puppy to the kennel yard for breath of fresh air. The puppy in most cases, after blinking at the sun and stretching, will select the dampest spot that the sun strikes in the kennel yard and curl itself up. A few moment's exposure under these conditions is sufficient, and the next morning the old symptoms, with incerased severity, are present, or the little fellow's la- bored breathing indicates too plainly the fatal inflammation and conges- tion of the lungs." The following is valuable on this disease: A. J. Sewell, M. D. C. V. S., who has lately been appointed veterinarian surgeon to the King of Eng- land, gives the following advice regarding the spreading of distemper: "As distemper just now seems particularly prevalent, and the largo shows recently held are sure to increase the number of cases, this article will assist readers in recognizing the disease at the commencement, so that the infected animal may be isolated early, and thus prevent, if possible, the spread of the disease to other dogs, especially young puppies, which have always a very poor chance of recovering. "I know some few people, if they get a case of distemper in their kennels, take no means of preventing it spreading; on the contrary, I have heard them say that they let all those puppies which have not had the disease come purposely in contact with the sick, one, so as to let all those have it that will, and get over it for the time being. I must confess this is not my practice with my own dogs; on the contrary, I take every possible precaution T can to prevent them having it, and I know most breeders are as ^anxious as myself (o avoid it. "As shows are no doubt the greatest source of spreading distemper, 170 DISTEMPER I advise that all clogs coming from these places which have not had the disease should not be returned home if there is any young stock in the kennels that one does not wish to be infected, and the farther they are kept away the better. Not only is this necessary, but a separate attendant is required. If you have the same man, you may as well have the same kennel. If these suggestions are adopted there will not be the least danger of the disease spreading, and I feel pretty sure, if people would properly isolate all distemper cases the disease might be almost, if not entirely, eradicated from the country. "The first symptom of distemper is a rise of temperature — if a dog is dull and off his food, take his~"temperature. It is best to take it in the rectum, where the normal is about one hundred and one to one hundred and one and one-half degrees Fahrenheit; if taken under the arm or inside the thigh it is one degree lower. If the thermometer- registers two or three degrees of temperature above normal you may be sure there is some- thing wrong, and the dog should be isolated at once; and by doing this the infection may often be prevented spreading. If the disease is distemper other symptoms will soon develop, as a husky cough, loss of appetite and condition, and occasionally vomiting. The eyes are weak and sensitive to light, and there is often a little gummy discharge which collects along the edges of the lids; the breath is offensive, and the teeth become furred. Diarrhea may, or may not, occur. If the illness is only some passing ail- ment the temperature will soon be normal, and the dog assume his usual condition. But the temperature, even in distemper, after two or three days, may go down to normal; but do not be deceived by this, and think the dog is all right, but look out for some of the other symptoms men- tioned, and if the dog is in for that disease they are sure to appear, and the fever will return again in a couple of days or so. "People often think a dog cannot have distemper without there is a discharge from the nose; this is a mistake, but it certainly does occur in most cases, though it does not appear as a rule until the dog has been ill for some time. If the lungs become affected the breathing is short and quick, not panting with the mouth open, the chest is tender on pres- sure. At first there is no cough, but after two or three days there is a suppressed painful cough, with retching. The pulse is often much acceler- ated, the beats varying from one hundred and ten to one hundred and forty per minute. In some cases the pulse is very slow, and may only be forty-eight to the minute; of course, this refers to a big dog. A pulse of this kind is worse than a fast one with pneumonia. When it is between sixty and seventy in a small dog it is also serious with lung complications. The heart's action in dogs is very frequently intermittent even in health. The eyes during distemper are often a source of anxiety, and in those dogs with prominent orbits, as spaniels, pugs, etc., there is always a'n inclination for ulcers to form, which are extremely painful." The following was written by "Westerner" and published in Field and Fancy. We cannot know too much on this most dreaded disease so I give the article entire: Distemper in Dogs. "Each year brings around its popular dog shows, and in these days when nothing is thought of high prices being paid for good specimens in most all the breeds, many of which after winning fame in public competition succumb to distemper, the American pulic is in need of some sound advice, which will, if faithfully followed, save the lives of innumerable dogs. It is said (hat whoever discovers a sure specific cure for distemper in dogs will have made his fortune, for probably 60 per cent of all the thorough- bred dogs bred annually die of this dread disease, at periods generally following the large shows in Eastern cities. The following practical sug- gestions and observations based upon the experience of many years .of breeding and raising, are likely not new to some owners, but will be found DISTEMPER 171 most helpful by the yearly increasing number of novices, and result in an absolute knowledge of how to avoid fatal results. "We know that distemper commonly develops during the first year of life, either at periods known to be associated with teeth formation or approaching physical maturity. "Primarily, distemper, at its inception, shows a disturbed and inflam- ed condition of the membraneous tissue of the alimentary canal. It is likely a condition corresponding to typhoid, as some maintain. Its germ certainly finds ready cultivation in the unhealthy conditions which result from worms. Its first usual symptom is a hard bronchial cough, with some retching, irritated by excitement or nervousness, all no doubt caused by the stomach's disturbed membraneous condition. Whether at two or three months, or at six or ten months, or any age, the first thing to do when this cough appears is to chain the dog up in some inside quarters where air is good and floor dry. Here is where the first mistake generally takes place. The fond owner, thinking because the dog is lively, that his cough is noth- ing more than some slight throat irritation or cold, allows the dog to sleep out in all kinds of weather, which conditions soon develop acute bronchial troubles, generally pneumonia, and in most every case pneumonia is fatal in dog-life. "Distemper develops much slower than generally thought for. A dog is first noticed to be 'off his food;' soon the cough is noticed in the morning and toward night, and in a week or ten days it is more than likely that the eyes show a sticky discharge and the nose sooner or later begins per- haps to discharge likewise thick purulent yellow mucus. Many a strong healthy dog will not show the effects of the early stages of the disease, but later break down all at once, as it gradually increases to some climax with him. If the mucous discharge stage is reached, the owner can count on a month or more of close confinement. PURE food is the dog's greatest need. The foremost veterinarians agree that nearly all ordinary dog troubles are traceable to impro- per feeding. Foods manufactured from waste products and scraps are not proper foods. We take pride in the fact that Maltoid Milk-Bone dog and puppy foods are made on the same principles of purity, wholesomeness and good flavor as foods for humans. Samples and interesting literature mailed free on request. F. H. BENNETT BISCUIT CO., NEW YORK BENNETT'S. 172 DISTEMPER "Of great importance is the isolation of the patient, chained up free from activity and excitement from other dogs. If your puppy is young, and you have an old bitch (that has had the distemper), no harm can follow shutting her in with the patient. She will aid the puppy in keeping clean and be very helpful in quieting him. Your chances are that if this first move is made promptly, and faithfully adhered to, your dog will have but a 'mild case,' and thus be saved all of the deleterious effects of the ravages of the disease in its worst forms, and in a couple of weeks be over it. The dog that is kept chained up from the very first symptoms, stores up his vital energy and strength, and has the benefit of it when any climax of the disease develops. "In treatment, the writer does not believe in the speedy use of any medicine; the less used the better you are off, and the clog, generally. If at first your dog is suddenly prostrated, as is common, one good, large dose of rochelle salts or castor oil is a good beginning. If indications of worms are present treat for their removal. If the patient refuses food for a couple of days, it will do no harm to let him go without, but rather good. The first stage is no time to force food, but on the contrary, does injury. Should much mucous discharge develop at the eyes and nose, and a general fevered condition exist, with quick breathing and much loss of energy, quinine in moderate doses, or any tried 'grippe' tablet that has been found good in family use will prove beneficial. In giving any such medicines use caution as to overdosing, considering well the age and size of the patient, and not oftener than once in three or four hours, bearing in mind its irritating effect on the stomach tissues. The condition of the stom- ach is the most important factor to keep in mind, for on getting the dog back to a good appetite depends his recovery. He must have the ability to digest and assimilate his food, as well as to eat it, in order that its strength-giving properties can help overcome the deleterious effects of the disease, as the effect of this foreign germ life in the system advances in its attack on the system. "Right here, begin at once, something that will, if followed up regu- larly, allay the development of the worst tendencies of the disease. After the general cleansing, begin to give, three or four times a day for several days and continually as long as its helpfulness is indicated a tablet that can be purchased from any druggist, being a compound of pepsin (one or two grains, according to age), bismuth and charcoal. These tablets are inexpensive and should be given after each meal, if the patient takes food, and, if not, four times a day. They are easily taken or given, and their beneficial effect will soon be observed. They will soothe the inflamed membraneous tissues and aid the proper digestion of food and its assimi- lation. "In distemper, the feces are usually of a greenish, rank,- pungent char- acter, indicating a decidedly unhealthy condition of the bowels, in the cause of which both stomach indigestion and intestinal indigestion and lack of assimilation undoubtedly share. This condition, if allowed to remain with- out attention results in what is known as the ulcerous and intestinal form of the disease which commonly develops when owners are too anxious to keep their clogs eating rich food, when the dog's system cannot properly handle it. There is no necessity for this form of the disease ever develop- ing. It is its worst form when advanced, and results in most cases fatally. "These simple and harmless tablets will first digest the food and en- able the dos to assimilate it. They soothe and tone up the inflamed intes- tinal conditions and gradually make a dog's- appetite good again and slowly but surelv brins about the conditions which permit healthy, well formed feces. When this is accomplished more than half the battle is fought, for so long as the dog is running off in a diarrheal condition the distemper germ seems to thrive, producing all sorts of gastrical and intestinal trou- bles, which are difficult to cure. Many make the mistake of treating with stringents for diarrhea, which naturally only cause more harm, as the cause is not first removed. There need be no fear whatever in the moderate use of these tablets, for they can produce no harmful effects whatever, and DISTEMPER / 172, even should they be given without sufficient cause therefor existing, they would be but a tonic and help to any normal conditions. All dogs (espe- cially puppies) are prone to overeat, bolt their food and tax too greatly their digestive organs. Dogs in their tramp and native state have no such troubles. While our modern blooded breeding has given us unbroken lineage in fine pedigrees, the dog constitution, due perhaps to the con- fined kennel life most have to put up with, is not as vigorous at it would otherwise be. Many a stud dog and brood bitch hardly ever get out of a kennel yard! need it be wondered at, then, that the blue-blooded puppies inherit digestive organs that need some help now and then, and are sus- ceptible subjects of contagion which develops at most shows? Fresh air and nice quarters tend to produce a healthy environment in a kennel, but as the young puppie adds bone and tissue much faster than is generally considered, the organs that are responsible for this growth, great in pro- portion to size as it is, and speedy development, need as much general support as it is possible to give them. "If your patient is well advanced in the purulent mucus discharge or acute bronchial stage, before you get at him, which is usual in the exper- ience of amateurs, begin at once and conform rigidly to treat as here- tofore suggested, adding the possible help of some distemper medicine. While these undoubtedly when properly used are very helpful, they are at best but stimulating tonics and fever medicines, and it is well to have on hand whichever one you find gives good results. Should the patient show general debility and indications of the disease rather generally poisoning the system — in fact, if the nasal form develops, lose no time in arranging to put in a seton. Any veterinary can do it, but you can do it yourself fully as well, as follows: Clip the hair on neck back of skull close to skin for three or four inches square. Secure a piece of ordinary (tarred) tar- paulin or common hemp cord, which should be soaked in a solution of carbolic acid and water. Cut cord at length of eight or ten inches. Catch one end of it in the joint of a pair of small curved sharp-pointed nail scissors or sail-cloth needle; hold skin just below occiput of skull bone, well up away from inner tissues and puncture point through from one side of neck to the other, drawing cord through so that holes will be about two inches apart; tie good large knots in each end of cord, dressing at nrst with antiseptic vaseline, and leave it in for from five to ten days, dependent upon profuseness of discharge. Draw cord from knot to knot each day often, in order to keep outlet free. The insertion of this seton is not particularly painful, as it passes through the outer skin covering only, and can do no harm whatever. It should be kept as clean as possible. It acts as a counter irritant and drains off from the system a large amount of poisonous accumulations and will very soon relieve the head of the acute troubles there concentrated. In almost all cases where the seton is used soon enough its aid is largely responsible for safe recovery. The writer has seen most wonderful cures by its assistance in the last stages of the disease. It use is of Eng- lish origin, and one theory advanced to explain its benefit in dogs is that as a dog perspires only through the glands of nose and mouth, and never through the outer skin and coat, this outlet affords an immediate drain much needed to carry off the poisonous accumulations about the inner body tissues. When the system is generally much poisoned with effects of dis- temper, this drain is very beneficial and never harmful. Leave it in until the discharge begins to subside, then cut one end of the cord and take it out. Keep sore clean until healed, which will be accomplished within a few days, and in a month a new growth of coat will have covered up the effect of this treatment, so that no scars are left as a blemish on the patient's neck. Many dog owners have special food theories for distemper, a popular delusion being that meat fed to young dogs produces distemper. All young dogs should have meat in moderation, and don't forget that dogs need salt in their food, as well as the human race and animals. The frequent con- tinual diet absolutely without salt is sufficient to cause most any kind of 174 i DISTEMPER ailment. The writer's observation has been that a dog in distemper gets along best when given limited quantities of what it craves, three to five times daily, always bearing in mind the aim to make the stomach's work easy. Raw (fresh) beef cut fine on bread, fed three or four times daily, is most excellent. If milk is relied upon, sterilize it (rather than boil) and give in moderate quantities. Raw eggs with milk is generally very good and strengthening. Avoid alcoholic stimulants, except when dog is badly off, then give whiskey and quinine as tonic, and maybe a little port wine with milk. The following few important and brief "dont's" will aid some as occasional reminders and cautions, viz.: Don't pour food down a sick dog when he hasn't the ability to either hold or digest it. It only makes him worse. Don't exercise a dog sick with distemper. Don't let a day pass without proper use of compound tablets (pepsin, bismuth and charcoal). Don't get scared if your dog won't eat. It's better for him not to eat until he can handle his food rightly. He won't die of starvation. Don't allow him to get his feet wet. This is likely to bring on pneu- monia, which is generally fatal. Don't wash a dog, no matter how foul he may be, when down with distemper or convalescent. Brush, comb and clean with powder (flour). Many a dog has contracted incurable chorea and its twitches from a bath too soon after distemper. Keep him away from the water for three months at least. Don't let your dog off chain as soon as he begins to feel better. Keep him there till well, leading him for exercise only when convalescent. Re- lapses are common and often fatal. When your patient is once well over distemper you can risk him any- where, for dogs do not have the real thing but once. If your dog's sys- tem is left very much run down, blood tonics are good, according to indi- vidual needs, Scott's Emulsion being especially beneficial. The most important safeguards to bear in mind are: (1) Absolute quiet on chain in dry quarters. (2) Tablets regularly given and constant care. (3) The seton promptly put in before the case has advanced to the fatal or acute form of the disease. Distemper in itself is not fatal, but the com- plications and collateral developments it leads to are. Whoever faithfully follows the suggestions given in this article need have no fear of any fatal results from distemper. The ideas herein formulated are but the result of years of practical experience of varying results with young setters. Common sense is the underlying principle of it all, which after all, if used in time, is far better than medicine. We hear of all kinds of "cures," including those who still have faith in "coffee," the pellet of "buckshot," or dose of "gunpowder," together with other harsher specifics and meth- ods of treatment. Should we not give our priceless clogs, whose value every year is increasing with their educated usefulness and close com- panionableness, the benefit of up-to-date intelligent care, rather than the "guess at it" methods of the past? "Modestly submitted for the benefit of somebody's faithful dog, some- time, somewhere." The following very complete and exhaustive article on Distemper was written especially for this book by Dr. George W. Clayton: Distemper. "History. — The disease now known as canine distemper made its ap- pearance at a very early period. According to Laosson, it was known at the time of Aristotle, and the epizootic that invaded Bohemia during the year 1028 and decimated the canine species of that country is now known to have been canine distemper. It made its appearance in England and on the Continent of Europe during the Seventeenth Century, first in Spain, and traveled from there to the other countries. It appeared in England and France about 1740, in Germany in 1748, in Italy about 1764, and in DISTEMPER 17! Richwoods Kennels, IRISH SETTERS CHAMPION RICHWOODS GLENROY, (182911), at Stud. A son of the Famous Ch. PAT LAW. WALTER McROBERTS, Peoria, III. Men.ber Irish Setter Club of Amerif; Al. G. Eberhart is my agent at A. R. C. shows. Russia in 1770. Distemper now exists all over the world wherever the dog is found. From the time of its first appearance it has been considered one of the most fatal diseases to which the dog is subject. "Definition. — Distemper is an acute contagious disease, caused by the introduction of a specific poison into the system. It has been known under various names. Opinions differ as to its nature. Some authors have com- pared it to typhoid or typhus in man, others to variola. A number of dif- ferent authors describe it as a catarrhal fever, as it affects all the mem- branes of the body. The nervous system is generally if not always involved, and there is also a characteristic skin eruption. "Causes. — That a germ constitutes the exciting cause of distemper we are convinced by recent investigations. Some authorities believe there may be several germs or different forms of the same germ. As the disease is very highly contagious, clearly defined, and well characterized, the exis- tence of a specific germ must be conceded. According to this theory the spontaneous origin of distemper is not tenable, and that the disease may be perpetuated and continued in existence, there must be a continued propagation of the poison, and a continual transmission of this poison. "The poison exists in the air in a fixed and volatile state, and enters the system by the nose and mouth. "The virus can be communicated from one animal to another, and transmission by cohabitation is more easily effected than by inoculation. "The germ has great vitality and great power of resistance. It may undergo dessication in the air and still retain its virulence. It can exist a long time outside the body without destruction, and communicate the disease when brought into contact with susceptible individuals. 170 —..-..- DISTEMPER "It has been found that the virulent properties of the germs are not lost in any degree when dried at a normal temperature, or when exposed to a temperature of 20 degrees Centigrade, but does lose some of its power if preserved in a dray state and kept for any length of time. "Under proper conditions the poison of distemper can reproduce itself without limit. "The blood of the affected animal has been found to be contagious; also the secretions from the eyes and nose. "Vaccination of young animals by means of the secretory fluid from animals affected with the disease has been tried and has produced the dis- ease artificially. The disease when produced from vaccination generally runs a mild course. The liability of dogs to contract distemper is not the same at all ages, and under all circumstances and conditions. Old dogs have a greater chance of escape, this being more a disease of youth. Young animals generally contract the disease jn the course of their first year. Sometimes whole litters of puppies being carried off by it. Some animals seem to possess immunity from the malady, and one attack suc- cessfully overcome produces immunity from another. In very rare cases there are exceptions to this rule. Distemper is found in all localities, and at all seasons, in the country it may be more rife at some seasons than others, but in large cities it exists permanently. "Predisposing Causes. — In distemper, as in all similar diseases, there are predisposing causes. Anything that weakens the constitution, or that tends to debilitate, or lessen the animal's resisting power would be pre- disposing causes. An animal that has a weakened constitution inherited from the sire or dam, from any cause, for instance from in-breeding, in- judicious mating, or from diseased parents. We will say, then, that age, environment, condition of the constitution at the time of exposure, indi- viduality, etc:, are all important. The sudden alteration in the environ- ment, like a change of weather, or of feeding, exposure to damp and cold, exhaustion, a long journey, the exciting and unnatural conditions of shows generally, with the crowding together of large numbers of dogs that have lived under different conditions, etc., badly drained, ill-ventilated kennels with insufficient disinfecting and feeding, poor food or over feeding, and too little exercise, are all favorable to the spread of the disease. "Animals Affected — Distemper is found in the dog, cat, fox, wolf, hyena, prairie dog and monkey. "Clinical Symptoms. — Symptoms of canine distemper are manifold and rather complicated. They involve the ocular, respiratory and digestive mu- cous membranes; also the nervous system and outer integument of skin. For the purpose of description we will divide them under the following different heads: "Symptoms of Commencement. — The period of incubation is usually from four to fourteen days. Elevation of temperature is the first symptom noticeable in this disease. The next symptom that will be noticed is some disturbance in the general condition. The animal will seem to be chilly and have shivering spells, the nose is hot and dry, the skin is hard and the hair becomes harsh and dry. The animal loses his appetite, is restless and seems depressed, and soon tires on slight exertion. Vomiting may occur. "Symptom on the Outer Integument. — There is sometimes a charac- teristic skin eruption in distemper. The eruption generally occurs on the inner facia of the thighs, and on the abdomen, or it may cover the whole body. It first appears as small red spots, generally scattered. Sometimes, but very rarely, they are confluent, then there is a change and they appear as small blisters filled with serum, and later on this changes to pus. They are about the size of a small bean, then dry up very soon and form yellow- ish scabs and crusts. These scabs fall off and leave a red, circular spot on the skin, and these spots are some time in disappearing. Sometimes pit and ulcerations are formed, on account of the dog scratching these spots. Occasionally this trouble is only slight and confined to parts of the body, but at times it extends over the whole surface of th« bodr. When the DISTEMPER 177 trouble is very extensive there is a fetid odor given off from the body, the hair falling off in places. Occasionally a slight skin eruption is the only symptom that is observed, but in these cases the disease is of a very mild form. "Symptoms Shown by the Eyes. — In the majority of cases there is a catarrhal conjunctivitis. The eye watery, the eyelids injected, the con- junctiva is red and swollen, and as the light cause's the animal pain he seeks the dark. At first the exudate is serious, later on it becomes mucous, and still later on it becomes purulent, in color light gray or yellowish. This discharge collects in the corner of the eye or runs down over the face, forms yellowish crusts on the edges of the eyelids, and very frequently glues the lids together during the night. Lesions of the cornea may be caused by the corrosive action of the secretion, and the resulting inflam- mation of the surrounding membranes. The animal scratching and rubbing the parts producing further injury. Nutritive troubles which follow also assist. There is at first a slight swelling which afterward forms an ulcer- ation. After this process has ceased and healing takes place there is left white spots or dark pigmentation on» the cornea. The inflammation may extend when the whole eye becomes acutely inflamed and breaks down. The eye symptom accompanied by a fever is sometimes the only symptoms of the disease. "Respiratory Symptoms. — There is usually an inflammation of the mucous membrane of the air passages of a catarrhal nature. We have, first, catarrh of the nose, marked by sneezing, and the animal will rub or wipe his nose with his. paws. There is generally an increasing discharge from both nostrils, at first serous, then mucous, and later on purulent, and generally quite an odor to this discharge. There is a sniffling respiration. The nose sometimes dry and cracked, and ulceration covering the membranes of the nasal fossa. When the discharge is very profuse the trouble extends to the turbinated bones and sinuses. In catarrh of the larynx we have a loud, hoarse, dry cough, which causes the animal a great deal of dis- comfort. Later on it becomes moist and looser, and there is usually a discharge. On account of reflex action this cough sometimes produces vom- iting. There is not much difficulty in respiration when the larynx alone is affected, but when the bronchial tubes become involved and the inflam- mation extends downward and produces bronchitis, there is a very great increase in respiration, and a very painful, distressing cough. "Symptoms of the Digestive Tract. — In catarrh of the stomach, which occurs in this disease, there is generally complete loss of appetite, and the animal vomits a frothy liquid. There is a fetid diarrhea, or infrequent defecation and intense thirst. The discharge from the bowels is of a liquid consistency, generally muco-purulent, and may be streaked with blood, while the abdomen will be found to be very painful on pressure. "Nervous Symptoms. — The animal's senses are very dull and he seems much depressed. There may be deep coma, or periods of excitement occur, nervousness and delirium; these periods generally short, terminating in depression. There may be twitching of the muscles, especially of the head and limbs. At times there is twitching of the muscles of the lower jaw that causes the saliva to foam; again there will be only a chatter- ing of the teeth. The animal will wander without aim, or run around as if lost. A haggard appearance of the eyes, the head thrown backward, the animal perhaps having convulsions. There may be motor paralysis, the animal unsteady in its actions, may drag his legs or there may be loss of power in the posterior extremities, the animal being unable to stand. There is sometimes loss of control of the bladder and lower bowel, when the urine and feces are involuntarily evacuated. When an animal is in a poor state of health, being aenemic and in a generally run down condi- tion, he is generally attacked with very severe nervous symptoms. Serious weakness of the heart may occur. Some constitutions seem to succumb easily, while others seem to withstand more acute attacks. "Complications. — Gome of the complications that occur in distemper 3.78 DISTEMPER are capilliary bronchitis, pneumonia, diarrhea, jaundice, paralysis, and worst of all, chorea. "Diagnosis. — When the animal is dull, has a poor appetite, and loses flesh rapidly, the disease should be suspected, especially if there has been exposure to the disease. The harsh dry cough is characteristic, and the eye symptoms when accompanied by fever are diagnostic of this disease. The thermometer should be used in these cases. "Prognosis, — The prognosis of distemper we regard as favorable if the case is seen early and properly treated. The danger increases with the severity of the symptoms at the onset of the disease. A persistent high temperature, or a subnormal temperature are both serious symptoms. The following are unfavorable occurrences: Much emaciation and the animal refuses food, or when there are grave complications such as pneu- monia, etc., or when the animal is very young or weak, and senemic, or when the disease attacks different organs at the same time. Death may occur from paralysis of the brain or oedema of the lungs, from septicaemia or from general exhaustion. Among the favorable circumstances are the mature age of the patient, good constitution of the animal, mildness of the attack, and when the disease is confined to circumscribed regions, or to one organ of the body. "Prophylaxis. — Due attention to hygienics is one of the most impor- tant considerations. It is a good plan to have a small kennel or room where there will be plenty of fresh air without draught into which cases of suspected distemper may be put under observation, housing all distem- per cases during the whole course of the illness in a separate kennel or room. Everything that has been about the animal and all quarters where the animal has been should be burned if possible. If it is not desirable to burn the quarters there should be a thorough disinfecting of them, and especially all bedding burned. All utensils that have been used in con- nection with the case, such as feeding and drinking pans, should be thor- oughly disinfected. A dog with distemper should not be allowed to mingle with others, however well he may seem, so long as he has any discharge from eyes or nose, and never before from four to eight weeks have elapsed. Then, after the nose and eyes have been especially disinfected by washing or injecting a suitable solution, the animal should be washed all over, the water being medicated with Clayton's Ceoline Dog Wash, Sanitas, or the Standard Disinfectant. As an animal in a run-down, debilitated condi- tion will contract distemper more easily than one in perfect health, it is essential that the animal be kept in as perfect health as possible. As all dogs are subject to constipation, especially if confined in the house, his bowels should be seen to and kept open, and there is nothing so good for this purpose as Clayton's Laxative Pills. "Pathological Anatomy. — Lesions of the respiratory tract are as fol- lows: The pituitary membrane or lining membrane of the nasal fossa is injected, infiltrated and covered with a muco-purulent exudate; numerous eccymosecl spots are found on the membrane. The mucous membrane of the larynx, trachea and bronchi shows various inflammatory alterations. The large bronchi are filled with bloody mucous, the smaller filled with a thick, tenacious exudate. The pleura is covered with a rose or citron colored exudate. The bronchial lymphatics are infiltrated, tumefied, and in rare cases purulent. The surface of the lungs are covered with red spots and the lungs are collapsed or distended with air. Lesions of the digestive tract are as follows: The mucous membrane of the small intes- tines is red, and numerous eccymosed spots are found, also hemorrhages in the subucous tissue. Occasionally the contents of the intestines are found to be bloody. "In the brain there are the alterations of the cerebral oedema, the nervous substance is soft, the convoltions are flattened. There is an exu- date of a serious character in the lateral ventricles and dilation of the blood vessels of the brain. We also have found evidences of fatty degenera- tion of the heart, liver, kidneys and an abnormal swelling of the lymphatic gin nds. DISTEMPER 179 "Treatment. — The treatment of distemper is principally symptomatic. We have, however, a remedy that is capable of destroying the contagious germ. Our researches have established the fact that Clayton's Distem- perine and Distemperine Tablets enables us to combat the disease suc- cessfully. As soon as symptoms of distemper are observed, careful at- tention to all hygienic conditions should be given immediately. There should be comfortable, well-ventilated quarters furnished for the animal, and more especially there should be plenty of fresh air, but no draught. These quarters should be thoroughly disinfected (See Clayton's Ceoline Dog Wash), with changes of bedding daily. The administration of Clay- ton's Distemperine or Clayton's Distemperine Tablets should be commenced at once and given according to directions. The discharge from the nose and eyes should be looked after and removed several times daily, or as often as it collects. The eyes should be bathed with warm water often, as it is a great relief. This matter is too often neglected. If there are occular complications Clayton's, or Eberhart's 'No. 2* Eye Lotion should be applied to prevent those serious lesions that so often occur in this dis- ease. If there are skin manifectations Clayton's, or Eberhart's Mange or Skin Cure should be applied carefully, and will not disturb the animal.- The skin eruption sometimes causes the animal much distress. In cases where the disease is localized in the organs of digestion, very careful at- tention should be given to the ailment. Careful nursing and feeding are of the utmost importance. The dog's strength must be looked after and a highly nutritious, easily digested diet given. Chopped raw beef is often taken when all else is refused, sheep's head broth with oatmeal or rice is very good.. If the animal is very weak, beef tea, raw eggs and port wine should be given often but in small quantities. If food is refused enough nourishment must be forced down him to sustain life. Should the stomach refuse to retain the food he may be fed per enema. Strong purga- tives are to be avoided in this disease. Exercise is injurious, the animal should be kept quiet. "When the animal is convalescent his system should be built up, and cod liver oil is valuable in these cases, while Clayton's Condition Pills with pepsin give remarkably good results." The following valuable article on Distemper was published in Field and Fancy and written by F. J. Skinner, the editor. We cannot get too much knowledge on this disease: "As soon as the disease makes its appearance the affected animal should be placed in specially prepared quarters, which are dry and well ventilated, but free from drafts and not liable to great changes in tem- perature. Unless the weather is warm abundant bedding of wheat straw should be supplied, and the patient made as comfortable as possible. Dis- infectants should be in constant use. "The bedding should be changed at least once each day, and oftener, if the patient is greatly prostrated and unable to move about. It is also best to slightly darken the quarters so that the patient may not be dis- turbed by the light or the flies, which are apt to congregate about him. "As the disease progresses it is probable that the dog's appetite will fail, and while at first he may eat sparingly of finely chopped meat, broth thickened with rice,, or toasted bread or slightly heated milk, the time may come when he will have to be urged or compelled to partake of food. "When the stomach is decidedly weak, beef tea, raw eggs and milk to which lime water has been added must be depended upon. When hand feeding must be resorted to it is well to remember that the continued forcing of food upon the patient will disturb and excite and overcome the good effects which might result from the administration of food. "Raw eggs are easily fed, as it is only necessary to break off the ends of the shell, open the dog's mouth with the fingers of the left hand, and withdrawing the tongue somewhat with one or two fingers of the right hand allow the contents of the egg to run down his throat. If he refuses to swallow relaxing the tongue will usually have the desired effect. "Where great debility is noted it is well to accompany the eggs with 180 DISTEMPER a tablespoonful of sherry wine, or if exhaustion is very great he may be stimulated by the same quantity of brandy. Unless the dog takes food without forcing, two eggs morning and evening, together with a little lean chopped beef, milk or broth in the middle of the day should be suffi- cient. By avoiding continual disturbance of the sufferer he will progress much better than if subjected to undue attention. "His temperature must not be allowed to get too high. To guard against this and other things throughout his ordeal until the appetite re- turns, he should have strict attention throughout. It is well, too, to have listerine in a small jam pot with a scrap of sponge changed twice a day, with which to wash the mouth, eyes and nose, and the discharge from the latter can be much lessened, relieved and finally dried up by the admin- istration of powdered camphor in the form of snuff. "Also the bowels must be watched, opening medicine given if at all costive, and on recovery the patient must not be allowed to go out too soon or exert himself violently unless you want a relapse. Very great benefit will be derived from burning a cresoline lamp, placed fairly near to the patient during the whole illness. It acts as a disinfectant, is good for the respiratory organs, and generally tends to the curtailment, occasionally even the prevention of the malady. "The fact is that every case of distemper needs to be treated on its own merits, according to the symptoms which it presents. When any com- bination of symptoms such as sickness, diarrhoea, or cough, or fits present itself, it must be dealt with in the order of severity — that is to say, the most distressing symptoms must be taken first, and. have particular atten- tion paid to it, while the less serious symptoms can be dealt with as oppor- tunity offers. "There are, however, certain points connected with the treatment of distemper which apply to all cases alike. One of the most important of these points has reference to diet. When, by the aid of a veterinary clinical thermometer, it has been ascertained that a dog supposed to be suffering from distemper is in a feverish condition, it becomes important that no solid food whatever should be given until the fevered condition has been reduced. A dog must be kept on liquid food, such as gravy and milk. "Another point of importance in all cases of distemper is with regard to exercise. The greatest care chould be taken not to allow a dog to con- tract a chill, and it should only be exercised if the weather be perfectly fine and dry, and not even then if there is much feverishness. Where valuable dogs are concerned, the owners must attend to all these matters, and treat patients with as much care as a human patient requires, because the more highly bred a dog is, as a rule, the more delicate he will be, and a greater difficulty there will be to get him safely through a severe attack of distemper. "Many dogs when suffering from distemper have a disposition more or less pronounced to roughness of the skin, and in many cases absolutely to eczema. The eczematous eruption which so often appears during dis- temper is liable to be mistaken for mange, because it usually appears as an eruption of small pustules filled with a watery fluid, which discharges and makes the animal's coat very unpleasant. It may also be said at the out- set that the appearance of an eruption during distemper should always be regarded with satisfaction, inasmuch as that is, practically speaking, na- ture's way of throwing off the ill humors with which the body is charged. The efforts of the owner of a dog which is suffering in this way should be directed rather to modifying the severity of the skin trouble, and of giving the dog comfort while that lasts, than checking it. It is a dangerous thing to try to drive back, as it were, an outbreaking complaint into the sys- tem. It is far better to let it run its course, subject to a local alleviative treatment. "During the time that a dog is suffering from distemper, it is well to watch carefully for any symptoms of paralysis, which would be indicated by twitching of the muscles and sometimes by a fit. There are a great many Of these cases nowadays — more than there used to be by far. Skin disease DISTEMPER 1H ii should be regarded as kind of a safety valve, for dogs that suffer from skin complaint rarely, if ever, develop paralysis or chorea. The following valuable article was taken from Field and Fancy: After -Effects of Distemper — Distemper in itself is not so serious a matter as are the troubles which follow in its wake. The most deadly of these is the complaint known as chorea, or paralysis, sometimes called "twitch," which is an involuntary jerking of the nerves, affecting sometimes the head, sometimes the legs, sometimes the whole body. It usually comes about in this way: A dog has distemper, and, as the owner believes, has it very mildly; he merely shows signs of a little cold, or perhaps he is merely "off color," as the expression is, loses his appetite and seems not to be himself for a few days, no other symptoms in particular making their ap- pearance. After a few days he is better, and the owner thinks he has had dis- temper and is getting over it, and nothing more is thought of the matter until a little later on — probably after the lapse of week or two — he has a fit, and on recovering from the fit it is found that he is twitching all over. This is not always what happens. In many cases the first symptoms of any- thig wrong takes the form of this involuntary twitching of the muscles; bpt the disease is very insidious and comes on in various ways, although it seems to be almost entirely connected with distemper, and the moral to be learned from this, therefore, is that any case of distemper, however mild, should be treated as seriously as if it were a bad attach, because this chorea or paralysis ought almost to be described as a sort of suppressed distemper, which, if the case is thoroughly treated, is brought out of the system instead of being allowed to lie dormant there until it affects the brain and causes the distressing symptoms of twitching, which in many cases last till the end of the dog's life. With regard to carelessness in dealing with dogs which are convales- cent. The most dangerous cases of distemper, apart from those in which there has been chorea or paralysis, are the cases in which the liver is very seriously affected. Jaundice, as every one know r s who has had experience with it, is a very bad complaint, and it carries off a good many dogs. It very often occurs in combination with distemper, and when a dog which has been suffering in that way with a combination of distemper and liver com- plaint has taken a turn for the better great care will be needed for some time. 182 i HYDROPHOBIA HYDROPHOBIA The followng article, (with some additions), is the one in my last book, and it cannot well be improved on, but have added some strong words against Hydrophobia, the side- 1 fight on, as, since this was written, fifteen years ago, my non-believe in hydrophobia has been made stronger, as during this period I have been bitten several times, and quite badly chewed up by dogs that — by all the symptoms that are supposed to exist, and yet I am here, writing another book, and none the worse for the bites. ' "Germs" are now very fashionable with doctors, (before we had so many "germs" there were not nearly so many sick and dying people as there are now), but now most all verterinarians, and some doctors, get out of hydrophobia the easiest way they can, by calling it a "germ." I would like to see one of these "germs." Appendicitis, now so fashionable also, in humans, and an operation almost invariably necessary, (the patient often dying, but "operation very successful"), and it's a wonder the poor dog has as yet not gotten this trou- ble. To speak out plain and honest, I do not believe in hydrophobia at all, for I don't believe what I don't see, and a good deal that I do see. Many others, and among them noted authorities, however, do believe in the exis- tence of such a disease, and in writing on this subject I shall give you my own ideas and belief, and also those of others more noted than myself — so you can read it all and believe as you like. I have spent a lot of time since my first book in collecting additional information and statistics on this subject, as it is an important one to know all about that you can, and I consider that in this article all has been said that can be said. The authorities I quote, pro. and con., are eminent, and the case is now presented to you, the jury, to decide: It might be considered presumptious and egotistical in me to say that there is no such disease, but I can honestly say that I have never seen a case, and don't believe in it, and I have as good a right today to have "gone mad" as any one who was ever bitten by a dog, for I carry scars on my body that have been there for many years — from bites of dogs — and I have been bitten hundreds of times in the past thirty years. While I am writing this article I have five sores on my right wrist received yesterday from a boarder, a mastiff, but I fully expect to be able to finish this book and live for many years yet, long enough at least to see it in the hands of every dog owner in this country; in fact, I never had time to "go mad." In handling dogs of all breeds, strange dogs, curs and thoroughbreds, incidental to having been a "dog crank" for thirty-five years, it necessarily follows that I have had a vast and varied experience, and .could not have done all this and not get bitten. The bite from a dog does not trouble me any more than if I cut my finger, which might be inconvenient and bothersome for a few days. The only thing I have ever done when bitten, if the bite was on a part of the body where I could get my lips to it, was to at once suck the blood from the place bitten and spit it out. This ends the matter there and then with me. There might have been danger of blood poisoning, as there always is from a wound, but if so, how simple to suck out this poison and at once get rid of all danger by spitting out the poison you have abstracted from the wound. It must be done imme- diately, however. Is there anything more simple than this? In case you are bitten on any portion of the body that you could not get at to suck the wound, or some one was not near to do this for you, Hydrophobia m then apply Peroxyde of Hydrogen to the bite. Allow it to remain on for a minute or so, then remove the foamy matter produced thereby by squeez- ing onto it some water from a sponge or cloth. Then keep the wound clean by applying the Peroxyde three or four times a day and using often the antiseptic solution given under heading of "Bites." (Since writing this article, tincture of iron is the latest treatment, now used by doctors for bites, instead of cauterizing the wounds, and then, the "Unguentine Salve" for healing). Now, should you be bitten by a dog, if you are a sensible person, not nervous or easily scared, have not read too many highly colored and sensa- tional "mad dog" items in the newspapers (which kill more people than dogs do), and keep your sober senses about you, don't believe or pay any attention to what your supposed friends say, when they tell you "how sorry they are," and bestow on you a look of pity, but go about your busi- ness as usual; forget the affair, and you will never go mad. If you believe all you read and hear as to going mad, lose your nerve and senses and get scared, it's the easiest thing in the world to "go mad" and die. If this is not logic, why have I not gone mad years ago? I was bitten a couple of years ago by a Yorkshire terrier brought to me that was suf- fering from what a very good veterinary surgeon in Cincinnati had diagnos- ed as dumb rabies in this dog. I could not take the dog to treat, as I was just starting .on a trip, so sent the animal to a veterinary surgen, who took him to treat. This dog, after biting me, also bit him, and the dog died in twenty-four hours. The doctor held a post-mortem examination and told me it was a case of dumb rabies; but the doctor and I are both living. Find me a doctor who can cure hydrophobia, and then I will be glad to have him explain to me what the disease is. If he can do this, then I'll try to believe there is such a thing as hydrophobia. If he can't cure it, he doesn't know what it is, for there is in this enlightened age a cure for every disease; but you must first know what ycu are trying to cure, or you won't cure it. Every summer the papers are full of mad dog victims; but our best authorities who do believe in hydrophobia will tell you that summer, or in hot weather, is not the season of the year that dogs go mad. You read of the person dying in great agony; that he bites and barks, etc., etc. So he apparently does, I will admit, as I know of some authenticated cases like this, but the "barking and biting" could easily be explained if the atten- dants and friends who saw it were not all themselves scared and off their base and had let imagination make them so — all due to the scare that comes to so many from the awful word "hydrophobia" and the many vivid and overdrawn accounts they have read in the papers gotten up by a very bright reporter who had to furnish something sensational for his paper. It's just like the cry of "fire" to so many people, who often lose their lives by not retaining their senses about them and in most cases of this kind taking their time and getting safely out of the burning building, instead of either jumping out of a high window to be dashed to pieces on the pavement below or getting .crushed to death in the mad rush of the others. In case you are bitten by a dog, see to it that the dog is not killed, but that he is confined and well taken care of for a few weeks, at least until you can see and know for yourself that he was not mad, and then you can drop the matter. What an insane idea it is to kill the dog after he has bitten you, for then you will never know whether he was mad or not, and the constant dread and fear will always be with you, and probably — if you are of a nervous disposition — may yet cause you to "go mad" and die. I have often been called in to put a poor dog out of the way that was supposed to be mad (and I chloroformed it according to orders from its owner), thinking to myself at the time that it was better for the dog than to live and be cared for by an idiot who did not know near as much as the poor dog, who was in serious trouble, of course, but due to some natural cause and not to so-called hydrophobia. Sometimes, however, out of pity for the dog, when I saw he had a chance to live if properly treated, I have asked to be allowed to take the dog to my kennels, and I went to work 184 HYDROPHOBIA and saved the pooi* fellow. I am deeply in earnest in my views oil this" much-mooted suhject, and I believe that thousands of people would be alive today that have died from hydrophobia if they would look at the matter os I do and act accordingly. Many poor dogs have fits hi summer, due to many causes, but they could nearly all have been cured ii properly treated in time, and as all important diseases are treated in this book, if you will follow its teachings your dog will live until the time comes for him to pass in his checks and go to "dog heaven" with the rest of the good canines gone before. A hard question for you or any doctor to answer is, "Why have I not gone mad" when it is a fact not to be denied that I have been bitten bitten by so-called mad dogs? I am willing to be convinced that I am wrong, if it can be done. While I may be taking up too much space on this subject, yet it is an important one. I will next give two interviews that were pub- lished in March, 1896, in a St. Louis paper that may interest and benefit some: "Prof. Al. G. Eberhart, who came to St. Louis last v/eek to assume active charge of the preparations for the bench show, is a man who has spent the better part of his life raising and caring for dogs, and his opinion upon this subject is that of an authority. Prof. Eberhart says: " '1 nave been bitten by dogs over a hundred times in my life and carry scars now that I've had for twenty-five years. Some of these so-called mad dogs have bitten me, but yet I am not mad. I have been bitten by dogs that veterinary surgeons and regular physicians have pronounced and diag- nosed as having rabies, but I didn't go mad because I've yet to see a genuine mad dog. Had I been nervous and easily scared I would very likely have been buried long ago. Some ten years ago a young lady in New York City was bitten by her pet dog, and, not wanting to have it killed, it was sent to Harry Jennings, the dog fancier. The dog bit him several times. The young lady died in three weeks from alleged hydrophobia, and Harry Jennings is alive yet. The young lady died from fright. This I know to be a fact. Find me a doctor that can tell what hydrophobia is, then I'll try to believe there is such a disease. If the doctor can't tell you what the disease is, he surely can't cure it. When a dog bites you, if it is on any part of your body where you can get your mouth to it as soon as bitten, suck the wound, thus quickly abstracting the poison if any there, spit it out and forget that you were bitten by a dog, for depend on it this ends the matter there and then. You have gotten rid of the poison before it was distributed through the system. If on any part of the body you can't get at, get a friend to do it for you. Another method that is good is to at once wash the wound with water. Then apply the actual cautery, a piece of iron heated to white heat, not to the flesh, but hold it about half an inch from it. The intense heat causes but little pain and will destroy the bacilli of rabies to the depth of one-quarter of an inch. If carbolic or nitric acid or nitrate of silver is used, not five minutes should elapse, as unless properly performed inside of ten minutes it is not only useless but positively injur- ious as the poison of rabies will have been distributed throughout the sys- tem in this time.' " The following appeared editorially in the St. Louis Republic of Febru- ary 24, 1896: "The interview with Prof. Al. G. Eberhart, Superintendent of the St. Louis bench show, which was printed in the Sunday Post-Dispatch, in which Prof. Eberhart made the assertion that he had never seen a genuine case of hydrophobia, and that he believed that cases that resulted in what was diagnosed as rabies from the effects of dog bites were the result of imagination, has created much talk and considerable comment. "Prof. Eberhart was called upon Saturday by a Post-Dispatch re- porter, and asked if he could make his position as a disbeliever in the ex- istence of the disease plainer than those reasons given in the short letter in last Sunday's Post-Dispatch. " 'Yes,' said the Professor, 'I believe that I can. When I said that I had never seen a genuine case of hydrophobia I meant it. I have seen many dogs that were thought to be mad, but have never yet seen one that HYDROi'llOlSiA 185 1 Was thoroughly Satisfied was afflicted with rabies. If people would save the lives of dogs suspected of being thus affected, we might in time have an understanding of the subject by studying the sick dogs. But the first thing that happens to a dog when he shows signs of anything wrong is to immediately suspect it of being mad, and after that it is a very short time until its existence is ended by a bullet through the head, and the most val- uable evidence in the case is destroyed. If the dog had been spared and confined, if he had been mad, the fact could have been easily determined, and he could be destroyed after the evidence was complete that it was a case of rabies without a shadow of doubt. But this course is seldom pursued, and the dog that has bitten any one in a spasm.it makes no matter what was the foundation for his pain, is immediately killed without regard to his value, and the bitten party left to suffer the torments of uncertainty as to whether he or she was inoculated with the virus of hydrophobia or not. " 'Now here is a case in point,' continued the professor. 'Last week, just before I came to St. Louis, a gentleman called on me one evening at my home in Cincinnati and said that he had just taken his pet dog to the police station near my house to be shot; that he thought that the dog had gone mad, and to be on the safe side he had decided to have him destroyed, and had brought him to the station house for that purpose. It was with much reluctance that he did this, however, as the dog was a household pet, and its death would be keenly felt and its presence missed. The policeman who was on duty at the time suggested that, as I lived near the station he could call me over to look at the dog. I assured the gentleman that I would go over to the station in a few minutes, and if I could do anything for the animal I would use the extent of my abilities, and he returned home. " 'After I had finished my dinner I went over to the police station and found that the Sergeant had arrived. I asked him if he had the dog. " 'Yes, said he; 'he's in that cage there." " 'Bring him out,' said I. " 'Not on your life,' replied the Sergeant. 'I wouldn't touch that dog for all the money in Hamilton County. Why, man, he's mad; I won't go near him. If you want to be foolish enough to try and do anything with him, go and unlock the cell yourself; I think he ought to be shot without delay.' " 'Well, I went over to the cell and saw the dog. He was a little Italian greyhound, as fragile-looking as a long-stemmed wine glass. The poor little fellow was in the throes of a hard spasm as I looked at him. He had his delicate, slender, head thrust between the bars in his pain, and his hind-quarters were jammed in between the two adjoining uprights. He looked up at me with fear showing out of his sick, brown eyes, but be- trayed no signs of dog madness. He was so weak and trembling that he could scarcely stand. " 'I unlocked the cell door and went in and picked the little fellow up, and after soothing him and getting him quieted down a little, I admin- istered a dose of a fractional part of a grain of morphine to ease his im- mediate pain, and carried him away. A little later I gave him a small dose of castor oil and put him to bed. I sat up with that dog until 3 o'clock in the morning, and after he was relieved by the oil he was well, and, barring the weakness resulting from his terrific spasms of the night before, he was perfectly sound.' " (I forgot to state in this interview that before leaving the dog, and after the oil, I gave him a dose of worm medicine; result was a lot of worms passed, and here was the cause of this "mad dog.") " 'After I had arisen in the morning I telephoned the owner of the dog to come and get his pet, He came, and his gratitude was manifest in the way he greeted the little fellow that he had condemned to death the night before, " 'Now, supposing that the dog had bitten the Police Sergeant. The Sergeant was firmly convinced that the dog was afflicted with the rabies, and if, by any possibility the dog had bitten him he would have worried himself until it would have perhaps resulted in an attack of hydrophobia, 186 Hydrophobia The clog would have been immediately killed, and thus all evidence that there was no rabies manifested in the animal would have been destroyed, and another name would have been added to the list of supposed victims to this terrible disease, delusion, or whatever you choose to term it. " 'But what was really the matter with the dog, Professor?' queried the Post-Dispatch man. " 'Worms,' said Prof. Eberhart, 'nothing but worms. And let me tell you that at the bottom of nearly every illness to which a dog is subjected you will find worms to be the cause. In fact, they cause eight-tenths of all the deaths in the canine world. If owners would keep their dogs' bowels open with an occasional dose of some purgative there would be many less cases of "mad dogs" like that poor little, shivering, sick Italian greyhound lying on the sold stone floor of that Cincinnati station cell. " 'But that wasn't the end of that case,' continued the Professor, 'and this part of it shows just how little this question of mad dogs is undersood. After I had gone down town to my office the same morning the dog had been taken home, his owner, who had called for him in the morning, came in. " 'Now, Professor,' said he, 'I know and you know that our dog is all right, but my wife has been worrying all night about him, and she was so frightened yesterday over his wild running and jumping that noth- ing but a personal visit from you will reassure her and quiet her fears, and I wish you would call at my house and see her. " 'I went out to the gentleman's residence and talked to his wife. I told her how her dog would act under certain conditions. I asked her, if her infant was thrown into spasms from worms if she would be afraid of contracting hydrophobia from it. I showed her that an ailment affected a dog exactly as it would a human. She was a sensible woman and saw the point at once, and I am sure there will be no more "rabies" in her dogs. " 'Now, I know of another case,' said the professor, 'where a small child was bitten and a fearful gash cut by the dog's teeth clean to the skull, and that dog died two days later with all the aversion to water that they claim is an infallible symptom of hydrophobia, that he could manifest still the little boy did not have rabies, and simply because he was too small to take part in his parents' worry over the outcome of the bite.' " The following appeared editorially in the St. Louis Republic, Feb. 24, 1896: "Is the Mad Dog a Myth? "This is far from dog-day time, but The Republic trusts that the optim- ism of the St. Louis Bench Show's Superintendent will be treasured by ner- vous mothers for use next August. He says that there is no such thing as poisonous rabies in dogs. "It is curious that every man who has handled great numbers of dogs bears the same testimony. "There is danger of blood poisoning as a result of any animal's bite; and there is lock-jaw as the extreme effect of blood poisoning. But the men who have been longest in charge of dogs agree that there is no rabid con- dition when a bite is more dangerous than at any other time; and that a dog's bite at any time is no more dangerous than the scratch of a cat. "It does seem that they ought to know. For the sake of humanity's peace of mind the doctors should find out whether the experience of men who have been bitten dozens of times is worth anything." Harry W. Lacy recently wrote in the American Stockkeeper on this subject: "One would think that a man having intelligence enough to write editorials on a leading daily paper would inform himself sufficiently on the subject not to make such a foolish statement as that muzzling dogs was a sure way to produce hydrophobia, but this is what a Boston Standard editorial said last week. Probably there is no subject about which the average newspaper writer gets off more tommy rot than hydrophobia and mad dog scares. Hydrophobia s is? "These hydrophobia scares are mainly due to the sensational imagina- tion of the reporter who plays upon the nervousness of a public only too ready to shy a stone at dog, and then when the scare has assumed suitable proportions and a muzzling order goes forth, these writers are again the first to question its advisability and play on tbe feeling of their readers who may own dogs, with the nonsensical statement alluded to above. "The very rare disease called hydrophobia can only be produced through- inoculation with the rabial virus, and a dog might mear a muzzle to the end of his natural life, and unless he was actually bitten by a rabid dog he would be none the worse, though, according to his temperament, the incubus might make him bad tempered, irritable, and so excite his ner- vous temperament as to send him into a fit wherein he would probably dis- play some of those symptoms of rabies popularly, but erroneously, asso- ciated with hydrophobia. "If such a thing as hydrophobia really exists in a locality there is no surer method to stamp it out than a general muzzling order strictly en- forced. The reason is obvious. This may entail hardship on individual dogs, but the good of the others and the community at large demands it. "Speaking of hydrophobia scares we do not hesitate to say that the Pasteur Institute in New York has done more to keep alive an unhealthy state of public mind in regard to the disease than any other agency. The advent of new patients is heralded throughout the country, and patients from distant states are treated on the supposition that they have been bit- ten by mad dogs, but rarely is it proved that the dogs were really rabid. Still they undergo the treatment, and Dr. Gibier claims credit for subse- quent immunity." Here are the ideas of Dr. H. Clay Glover, of New York City, one of the highest authorities on canine diseases that we have in America: Dr. H. Clay Glover, interviewed on the muzzling question by a New York Herald man, was asked why the muzzle was unnecessary. "Because," said Dr. Glover, "it is of no possible benefit either to the dog or public. The mad dog scare, which has been so long agitated, is a myth, and one calcu- lated to do much injury by the introduction of false hydrophobia induced by fear. During my long experience in canine practice I have never seen but one case of authenticated rabies. I have been called to see hundreds of so-called mad dogs, and found they were merely in convulsions, afflicted by epilepsy or suffering from an attack of indigestion or from over excite- ment, all of which yield to proper treatment." Another very able authority is next given: In the Animal World, Mr. Rotherhan, a canine practitioner, describes the differences between rabies, apoplexy and epilepsy. He says: "In rabies a dog never foams at the mouth, its tongue and lips are brown and hard- looking, the discharge from the mouth is small in quantity, brownish in color and hangs about the lips like strings of gum; the eyes have an un- natural glare. In apoplexy there is sudden loss of power, the dog falls down, either partially or wholly insensible, the eyes are fixed and blood- shot, the breathing is heavy; there is no unusual discharge of saliva. In epilepsy the dog is seen to tremble just as the fit is coming on. If the dog tries to move he falls on one side, his jaws begin to champ violently, all voluntary muscles are powerfully convulsed; generally he utters sharp, short cries, but not always; there is a copious discharge of white, frothy saliva, the gums are of a pale leaden hue. When recovering from an epileptic fit the dog has a bewildered look, the eyes having a dull and stupid expression." So great is the popular dread of hydrophobia that a slight derange- ment of the dog's nervous system is often mistaken for symptoms of rabies, while a dog in convulsions, in an epileptic fit, or stricken with apoplexy may be shot as mad — particularly if it be hot weather — before there is a chance of determining the nature of his disease. The principal centers of the nervous system are the brain and the spinal cord. These Stonehenge compares to the electric telegraph. The brain he calls the central office. From that station are issued messages to all parts of the body, and the wires which carry those messages are the nerves of motion, the nerves of 188 HYDROPHOBIA sensation and the nerves of organic life, all of which have their separate* ganglia, or the lesser station masters. The normal, movements of the body are, says a writer in Our Animal Friends, the result of harmonious, co-ordinated functional activity of the neuro-muscular mechanism, i. e., of the nerve centers, nerves and muscles. In convulsions the movements are purposeless and irregular, and are, of course, wasteful of the animal energies. A dog may have a fit from over- exertion in the heat of the sun, from neuralgic pains or from toothache, from meningitis, excessive fright, parasites in the nose or brain, acute ear dis- ease, or from the distress of being lost in a large city; or,, if a female, of being deprived of her whelps. Recently it has been shown that mental distress has the power to give a dog diabetes. It stands to reason that so sensitive an animal should never be unduly excited. On no account allow one dog to see another in a fit. The suffering dog should have his head wet and should be kept for a time in a dark, quiet place, free from all excitement. In most cases of convulsions a small dose of bromide of potassium will do great good. Hydrophobia, considered as a canine disease ,is decidely a misnomer. The proper term for canine madness is rabies. The rabid dog has "no fear of water." On the con- trary, he craves it, and, unless paralyzed, he has no difficulty In swallowing it. Rabies is a specific disease of the nervous system. In all cases there is an intense inflammation of the brain and spinal marrow, ending in a loss of function, which is a result common to inflamed glands. The mucous glands of the stomach and bowels, the liver, the pancreas and the kidneys are all more or less injected with blood; but the salivary glands are especially affected, and the secretion of saliva is greatly increased. There is the furious or maniacal form of rabies and the paralytic. The paralytic is known as dumb rabies. Absolutely typical cases of either form are as rare as is the disease. Death, however, usually results in from two to ten days in the furious form, while in dumb rabies the period is much shorter. The howl or bark of a mad dog is very remarkable. It is totally unlike his ordinary voice, and is sonorous and melancholy to an extreme. No one need mistake it. The dog's appetite is so perverted that he will swallow stones, sticks, straws and almost any filth. His biting and snapping are reflex actions; that should not be regarded as deliberate. It is then that he is really dangerous. Irritability is an advance stage of rabies. In the earlier stages the animal is sullen and inclined to hide away in corners. His eyes grow wild and suspicious. If at large he will roam over wide tracts of country at a jog trot, with his head down and his tongue out. In dumb rabies there is an entire absence of excitement. The muscles of mastication are paralyzed so that the lower jaw is dropped! there is no maniacal stage at all. Epileptical convulsions are due to an irregular discharge of the nerve cells. They occur unexpectedly, are of variable duration, and the spasms are of two kinds. A prolonged muscular contraction is called a tonic spasm. Following the tonic spasm are the clonic spasm, which consist of alternate contraction and relaxation. The dog, like the human subject, will froth at the mouth and bite the tongue. Epilepsy may be hereditary, or may be due to teething and worms. Apoplexy differs greatly from epilepsy. The convulsions are not prominent; the pupils of the eyes are either contracted or dilated; there is long-continued unconsciousness and more or less paralysis. Meningitis, so often mistaken for rabies, is yet very different. The temperature is very much elevated, which it is not in rabies; the dog snaps, but shows no tendency to bite, and there is no particular bark and howl combined, although the dog's voice is high-pitched. Phrentitis is simply inflammation of the brain. It is sometimes a com- plication of distempers, and is the only disorder which resembles rabies. It generally occurs in the hottest weather. The dog can not propagate phrentitis by salivary inocculation. "Hydrophobia in human beings," says a writer, "results from accidents HYDROPHOBIA 189 of a nervous order, sometimes mortal, sometimes curable, according as they derive from disorders analogous to tentanus (lockjaw) produced by a wound or from purely mental disorders." According to Dr. Caffe, "Spontaneous rabiform hydrophobia is the only rabies that exists, and that is a mortal rabies." Before M. Pasteur's system was invented about nine- teen persons annually were officially reported to have died of hydropho- bia. Now, strange as it may seem, the number of persons who annually re- port themselves bitten by rabid dogs averages from 1,500 to 2,000. Rabies is a rare disease, rarer today than in the past, and hydrophobia is more or less a form of hysteria. Were there less talk about it, it would be bet- ter for the community. A little more knowledge of our own nervous sys- tem, a little less ignorance of the dog's, and we shall be far more likely to escape hydrophob a entirely than to die from it or to be saved by inocu- lation. I will now give a most important and valuable interview with the famous medical expert, Prof. Edward C. Spitzka, of New York. Prof. Spitzka declares the Pasteur rabies theory and treatment a humbug from start to finish, and rabies to be a hoax. Ex-United States Surgeon General Dr. Wm. A. Hammond indorses his decision. Such arguments as Prof. Spitzka's, a most eminent authority, should convince every one who reads it that he is correct: "Although Pasteur was undoubtedly as sincere in his work as his follower, Paul Gibier, doubtless is in dispensing the ridiculous treatment," said Prof. Spitzka, "I am willing to stake my reputation that there is no such disease as 'hydrophobia,' or 'rabies,' in existence, and I am further impressed that the Pasteur inoculations are injurious. This is not merely my opinion. I have a practical explanation for every statement I make, and have carefully weighed every possible opposition to my conclusions for a parallel consideration. "I am accordingly prepared to answer any criticism. Of course, the strongest retaliation I shall receive will be the broad charge that I am following in the footsteps of the narrow-minded opposers of. the Wonderful .Tenner smallpox vaccination cPscovery, on which the Pasteur treatment hinges its practicability. As to this most enrnent charge there is no con- nection between the two treatments. For while every one acknowledges the existence of the dreadful smallpox, the existence of hydrophobia, or ra- bies, has never been satisfactorily demonstrated. I have not myself — nor has any other expert investigator — been able to distinctly diagnose a single case of the so-called malady, to my knowledge. I have often witnessed the symptoms, commonly termed 'rabies,' but in every instance these ex- citing observations have been plainly nothing more than tetanus symptoms of acute fevers and the many forms of deadly blood poisoning. "The water theory is too absurd and ridiculous to have any significance. There is not an authority to be found for its assumption. It is yet to be explained how water could possibly have such an effect, while all the knowledge modern science has amassed goes to provide the belief merely an antiquated superstition, to which some people still cling. "When Pasteur's boom was exploded, and the public went wild with en- thusiasm over it, along with the great majority of scientific men, I was also taken in by the contagion. At the time I was impressed that with the increasing knowledge gained in the field of contagious and epidemic diseases generally, much substantial advance has not been recorded in the history of the mysterious rabies, but realizing that this was not due to neglect of the subject, I was not surprised at the birth of the Pasteur theory. "Owing to the terrible nature of the symptoms attributed to this unfounded malady, an attractive field of research has been open to those animated by an earnest desire to prevent and relieve human sufferings from the time of the earliest civilization. The symptoms are described in the works of Horace, Aristotle, Virgil and Plutarch, in a manner which Allows that while the world has advanced in all other lines of medical 190 HYDROPHOBIA science it is pitifully behind the date in clinging to this relic of the queer superstition of ancient times. "Pasteur was fascinated — or shall I say hypnotized? — by the sensa- tionalism and mystery of the belief. It is most likely due to the latter element that the universe has not become emancipated from such super- stitions as are involved in the 'rabies' or hydrophobia hoax, which really belong to medieval history. "Take a practical, up-to-date view of the matter. All epidemic dis- orders should be accompanied with evidences approaching in exactitude, at least, a degree of mathematical proof. 'Rabies' has not, while all others have. The symptoms observed during life, as well as the signs found in the dead body, in such diseases as smallpox, typhus fever and cholera, for instance, are characteristic, decisive and constant. The symptoms in 'rabies' in man are extremely vague, conflicting and , inconsistent, and, further- more, post-mortem study in man, as well as in canine, has yielded no re- sult of other than negative value. "Much of the observation made of queer-acting dogs is made through optics disturbed by fear, and by persons who are incompetent to judge what they see, consequently if a canine froth at the mouth, run with his tongue out and carry his tail drawn under his body he has the rabies, and the revolver or policeman's polished baton is uncermoniously called into service. "What nonsense! Such signs have been observed in dogs that have merely been chased or beaten, or that are afflicted with ordinary canine diseases. What if they are taken to a water trough and go into convulsions when they see the liquid. They are overheated and at a high tension of nervous excitement. Accordingly they conceive a craving for water, yet in such a state they are unable to compose themselves sufficiently to par- take of it, and so the unquenchable craving throws them into the dread- ful paroxysms which decides their fate. "The same explanation serves for the supposed sufferers of rabies in man. Any human being suspected to be infected with rabies who is men- tally weak enough to work up a like nervous excitement to that I have j-ust cited in the canine will suffer parallel symptoms; the others bitten by so-called rabid mad dogs will suffer no ill effects unless it be from blood poisoning, infected by decayed teeth in the animal's mouth. In the latter case the water symptoms do not present themselves if the afflicted are strong enough in mind to keep control of their nervous systems. "I believe that many of the sufferers who develop the imaginary dis- eases were bitten by animals suffering not from rabies, but from epilepsy or from gastro intestinal disease; nay, even by healthy dogs. The serious- ness and oft-times fatal influence of terror and expectant attention, fos- tered by the excitement of popular alarm is equally attested by other epidemics of imitative nervous disorder, and is a familiar fact to those who have carefully and scientifically studied the possible influences of mind on the body. "From as far back as the fifteenth century, when the Alsatian pheas- ants imagined they were changed to wolves, ran on all fours, howling demonically and tearing children to pieces, and insisting that their limbs be lopped off in order to convince others that the wolfish fur grew inward from their skins, to the present day when those dreading hydro- phobia bark and snarl like dogs, mew and spit like cats and are thrown into convulsions at sight of water, the records of the disorder are replete to overflowing with delusion, superstition, hysteria and unconscious simu- lation. "The tragi-comical case of a number of persons dying in the sixteenth century, after having eaten of a pig that had been bitten by a dog, which in turn had been bitten by another and believed to be a rabid one, found its counterpart a short time ago in Russia, where a medical editor and a prominent follower of Pasteur suggested the treating of a number of per- sons in the Pasteur Institute at Odessa for no better reason than that they had partaken of milk from a cow bitten by a suspicious acting dog. HYDROPHOBIA 191 "In order to determine how great the danger from 'rabies' was in the United States about ten years ago, when Pasteurism was popularized in the country, I carefully followed up all the newspaper and medical jour- nal reports of alleged outbreaks of the malady, and in not a single case was satisfactory evidence of its existence obtained. The reported outbreaks were mostly located in or near two centers, Newark and Chicago. In the epidemic at Niles Centre, seven miles from Chicago, which led to a wild hunt and slaughter of the innocent canines in that village, the human subjects were successfully cured by the 'madstone' — a harmless species of the 'faith cure' in this case. But the subsidence of the panic was mostly due to a sensible physician who declined to .make a premature diagnosis. "At Newark, scientific tests were made, which showed that neither the persons dying of alleged 'rabies,' the dogs that had bitten them, nor the children reputed to have been saved by the Pasteur treatment, had been afflicted with any such disease. "Prof. Briggs, of the Carnegie Laboratory, and Law, of Cornell, inoc- culated dogs with material from the deceased pound-keeper, Neall, as I did from the deceased Hertlin, and in every case with negative results. "The veterinarian, Runge, kept the clogs bitten by the suspected animal in .quarantine for four months and then discharged them as not 'rabid.' Some children bitten by the same dog and not treated by Pasteur are today known to me. They are as free from disease as those who were sub- jected to the treatment. "Scores of observations might be added in bringing the review up to date, all of which tend to show that the cases reported, including the eight Baltimore victims, were not sufferers of any trumped-up malady as 'rabies.' From what I have learned of those of the latter who died after receiving the Pasteur treatment, I should say they were poisoned, either by the inoculations or by ptomaines from decayed teeth of the suspicious canine that bit them. Of the others who are believed to' have been saved from the dreadful disease by Gibier's hand, I am satisfied that in biting them the animal didn't happen to get any of the poisonous saliva in the wound or that their systems were not susceptible to the dangers of the Pasteur inoculation. Science has proved that what is harmless to some persons may be deadly to others. The followers of the Pasteur treatment, how- ever, disregard this established fact. "In Pennsylvania a number of persons were needlessly rendered un- happy by a sensational report to the effect that 'rabies' had become epi- demic in one of the State's prosperous villages. A large number of school children and several adults had been infected by dog bites. After several of the children and two of the adults had died, the dog — which was a pet — was located. The animal was found to be suffering from epileptic fits, induced by his having swallowed a chicken bone. The deaths caused by the bites were undoubtedly due to the same cause as I have explained in regard to the Baltimore victims. "As a whole, in all the cases reported as 'lyssa,' 'rabies' or 'hydropho- bia,' it was either not shown that the subject had been bitten by a dog at all, or that the dog had been mad in the Pasteur sense. Indeed, the errors that have been committed in this direction would be amusing were it not for other and tragical attendant features. "Let it be inoculated in the public mind that the sensational symp- toms which tradition assigns to rabies are fictitious, and, like the fear of water which has given a name to the malcondition, never occurs after the bite of a dog; that it is no more possible for a dog to inoculate a man with the tendency to bark and run on all faurs than it is for a man to inoculate a dog with the faculty of speech and an upright gait — then what has been drifting through medical and newspaper literature as rabies would disappear. "If once thoroughly understood by the people at large, that supersti- tious fear and expectant attention may not alone develop serious nervous symptoms, but, also actually cause death, many who assume themselves threatened with some rational ill effects, such as ptomaine poisoning after a 192 . " HYDROPHOBIA dog bite, would cultivate that healthful self-control, which was so happily inoculated by Dr. James Gordon Spencer in the Watertown case, and Dr. Exton in the Arlington case." Herewith is reproduced Hugh Dalziel's entire treatise on this subject. He is a noted authority in England and the author of several books on dogs and horses. You will see that he believes in hydrophobia, so you have now both sides of the question to read, ponder over and digest so as to get a full and complete idea of the matter in all its bearings; "Although the symptoms of this terrible disease have long been recog- nized and clearly stated by scentfic men, there is still, unfortunately, great ignorance regarding it evinced by the general public — an ignorance fraught with much danger to man, and the cause of much cruelty and death, often most brutally inflicted on hundreds of poor dogs, more innocent of mad- ness than the frantic crowd who do their best to hunt the poor frightened, nervous beast into that state. "I have found the prevailing idea of a mad dog to be that of an animal with glaring, bloodshot eyes, covered with the froth of his excite- ment, and rushing wildly hither and thither in search of man or beast to bite; whilst a dog lost in a crowded town, and excitedly nervous finding himself out of his knowledge, is often enough to raise the croy of 'a mad dog,' and with many a fit is a sign positive, and the occurrence of epilepsy has been the incitement to canine murder in numberless instances. . "It is quite true that the disease produces great nervous excitement, and creates a spirit of unrest — it also, in the first stages of its existence, increases the flow of saliva — but not the emission of froth from the mouth, which is produced by the champing of the jaws in an epileptic fit; in rabies, the discharge becomes thick and glutinous, and the sufferer may be seen paw'ng at his mouth to clear it, as though choked with a bone. The dispo- sition of the dog is often entirely changed, and one frolicsome and fond of being caressed may become sullen and shy, retiring into some quiet lair, generally selecting some dark corner, behind a large object. If out on the march he will rather evade man than seek company; and although biting furiously at all and everything that obstructs his passage, rarely going out of his way to seek an enemy. He evinces a strong desire to tear and gnaw everything he gets hold of; nothing comes amiss to him, and the dispo- sition to bite is shown by his frequently snapping at imaginary objects in the air. Contrary to the generally received -opinion, and condemnatory of the name hydrophobia, erroneously given to this disease in the dog, the poor sufferer laps water greedily as long as his power over the muscles is retained, and #hen that is gone, plunges his head into the water to cool his parched and burning mouth. In the latter stages, the dog may have convulsions, but fits are not a premonitory, nor an early symptom, and their presence, independent of more certain evidence of rabies, should never give rise to fear. "I can not do more than to indicate the more prominent and well- known certain symptoms, and those who wish for fuller information on the subject should consult the works of Youatt, and the more recent book of Dr. Fleming. "Whilst too great care and caution cannot be used in dealing with a disease so dangerous, I wish to warn my readers against that unnecessary and hysterical alarm which dethrones the reason, and predisposes to the gravest results. If there be reason to suspect a dog of madness, if his natural disposition appears changed without a traceable cause, if he tears and bites at his bedding, pieces of wood, carpets, dirt, etc., if he be seen to paw at his mouth frequently, whilst no obstructive articles is in his throat, if at intervals he snaps and bites savagely at objects real and imaginary, if, after these paroxysms, he be seen to stagger and fall, if he show an insatiable thirst — if any or all of these symptoms be present, shut him up where he can do no harm, and call in to your aid a verterinary surgeon. By allowing Him to study the case, you will do a public good; for fortunately, cases of rabies are very rare, and it is only' by the careful HYDROPHOBIA 193 investigation of them by men specially educated to undertake the duty, that we can ever hope to discover a cure. "Among the numerous superstitions that hang like clouds round ca- nine madness, obscuring any possibility of a clear view of it, 1 will refer to one only, most of them being altogether unworthy of notice. It has long been a popular belief that a person bitten by a dog, even if the. ani- mal be in perfect health at the time, is never safe from an attack of rabies so long as the dog lives; for it is held, that should the dog become mad at any future period, however distant, the person bitten will also fall a victim to the disease. Cases supposed to prove that rabies may be com- municated by a dog free from it are constantly cropping up, and I know of a case of a woman who is said to have died from hydrophobia, caused by the bite of a dog that was clearly proved to be free from rabies at the time, and has remained so ever since. The woman, it appears, was in an upper room with her child, and the entrance of a small dog so alarmed her for her child's safety that she seized the intruder and threw it out of the window, and was bitten in the struggle; the woman was taken ill and died, showing all the symptoms of hydrophobia, and the surgeon who at- tended her certified that death was from that disease. 1 do not intend to dispute the opinion thus given, but I venture to say had the whole facts of the case been carefully investigated, say, by a jury of physicians of experience, it would have proved that the bite of that dog had but a small share in causing the woman's death. To me it appears as reasonable to believe that the dog could have bitten the woman without being in the same room with her, as that the bite could communicate rabies when the disease did not at that time exist. Such cases should not be passed by, but thoroughly sifted by qualiled men, that the truth might be elicited and the fears of the nervous allayed. The practical lesson to be learned from this is, care and caution in dealing with dogs, especially strange ones, and to curb unnecessary alarm, which often brings about the evil it would avoid. When an accident does occur, have the wound promptly cauterized to its full depth with caustic, and let nervous, in addition, obtain medical advice. "I recommend those having much to do with dogs to carry in the pocket at all times one of those wooden cases of caustic which costs but sixpence, and with this safeguard about them, and the presence of mind and nerve to use it promptly and thoroughly — taking care the caustic reaches as deep as the tooth did — the bite even of a mad dog will do them no harm. "Since the above was written, ten years ago, rabies in dogs has un- fortunately been rather frequent, and a few years ago from the number of deaths from hydrophobia, caused by the bites from mad dogs, quite a panic arose, with the result that the attention of medical men and vet- erarians at home and abroad has been very much directed to its nature; as yet, however, no cure has been discovered, and I see no reason to alter what I have already said; but it will be useful very briefly to notice one or two points of special interest. Latest researches seem to point conclusively that the rabid poison exists in the saliva, and in none of the other secretions. "Although its propagation by a bite or by the poisoned saliva coming in contact with an abraised or highly vascular surface are clearly enough the means of transmission and propagation, how it originates is unknown; exposure to great heat, feeding on salt meat, compelled abstinence from water, and many other causes, have been suggested as a producing cause, but proved not to be so. The old notion that it is peculiarly a disease of the dog days, is fabulous, nor is it connected with the functions of procrea- tion, further than the present law in this country permits owners of bitches when in season to be fought over by excited males, furnishes excellent op- portunities for its spread as well as being an insult to decency. It is the duty of men who keep dogs to have some knowledge of their nature, and the law should punish the ignorance or carelessness that causes an offense and a danger to the public. 194 HYDROPHOBIA • "Unfortunately no cures are yet known; such things as the Birling and the Webb's cures, and other pretended family secrets may be swept aside. Medical men have tried every conceivable drug, and a few years ago it was thought that a specific had been found in curari, but it proved delusive. Hot and vapor baths have their votaries, just as half drowning in Crib, a pool in the Severn, was at one time believed in. "Preventive measures are alone to be relied on, and the very old one of the Greeks, sucking the part, is excellent, and a small instrument has been invented which can be easily used; it is like an old-fashioned breast exhauster, with the bell-shaped head and long tube, but with a round bell half way up the tube as well, which of course receives all that the operator sucks out of the wound and renders him quite free from danger. It is made by a chemist in York, and can be bought through Maw, Son & Com- pany, Aldergate street, London." Here is a sensible article on hydrophobia, published in Man's Best Friend, being an interview with 'John P. Haines, of New York City, the President of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Ani- mals, a man who has had considerable experience: "Hydrophobia is one of the rarest of diseases, and it is the height of folly to imagine that every dog that happens to suffer intensely from the heat is either mad or in danger of going mad. A mad policeman is every bit as dangerous as a mad dog, and probably in the past quite as many of the former as of the latter have been mad." "Mr. Haines quotes from high authorities when he says that in ninety- nine cases out of a hundred the poor brute which is destroyed while sup- posedly in the throes of rabies is merely suffering from excitement which will cur? itself, and that a person bitten by an animal under such circum- stances is absolutely in no danger of serious results unless he permits him- self to become a victim of his own disordered imagination. Mr. Haines is himself authority for the statement that the cases of death from hydropho- bia reported from time to time are wrongly diagnosed, and that, as a rule, they result simply from worry. The weather has nothing to do with the case, although no doubt dogs are less liable to sickness in cold weather than during the hot spell, a state of affairs due perhaps almost as much to the thoughtlessness or ignorance of their owners as to the weather conditions. "A dog that has been properly fed and is being so fed, will suffer much less discomfort than another which has been stuffed with food calcu- lated to heat the blood, and such a dog is, and especially when not over- weight, far more liabel to escape illness than the fat, badly-conditioned animal that is quite 'above himself,' and ready to go wrong at any time. "What are the dog days? They are the heated term in July and Au- gust, during which dogs are supposed to be peculiarly liable to rabies, or canine madness. That is one answer, but there is a better. There are no dog days, because there is no time of the year when dogs are especially liable to rabies. There are no more cases of rabies in July and August than in December and January. Moreover, rabies is one of the rarest of canine diseases. When you hear a cry of 'Mad Dog!' the chances are many thousands to one that the dog is not mad. When you read in the papers of someone being bitten by a mad dog the chances are thousands to one it is not true. A person bitten by a mad dog is not doomed to die a fearful death by hydrophobia. Not at all, for hydrophobia in a hu- man being is much more rare than rabies in a dog. Expert physicians who have given special attention to the subject are convinced that hydro- phobia is never caused by the bite of a dog, but is simply a hysterical nervous disease caused by an unfounded dread. Don't take this for grant- ed; but remember these facts: "First, That there are more than a million chances to one that any dog which is supposed to be mad is not mad at all; second, that, in all probability, any dog by which a person may happen to be bitten is not mad; and third, that even if a person is bitten by a dog that is really mad, the danger of hydrophobia is very slight indeed. "If you will note the following facts you will probably find them to HYDROPHOBIA 195 be quite different from the popular fancies by which most persons are mis- led. It is supposed that a mad dog dreads water. It is not so. The mad dog is very likely to plunge his head to the eyes in water, though he cannot swallow it, and laps it with difficulty. It is supposed that a mad dog runs about with evidences of intense excitement. It is not so. The. mad dog never runs about in agitation; he never gallops; he is always alone, usually in a strange .place, where he jogs along slowly. If he is approached by a dog or man he shows no signs of excitement, but when the dog or man is near enough he snaps and resumes his solitary trot. If a dog barks, yelps, whines or growls, that dog is not mad. The only sound a mad clog is ever known to emit is a hoarse howl, and that but seldom. Even blows will not extort an outcry from a mad dog. There-' fore*, if any dog, under any circumstances, utters any other sound than that of a hoarse howl, that dog is not mad. It is supposed that the mad dog froths at the mouth. It is not so. If a dog's jaws are covered or flecked with white froth, that dog is not mad. The surest of all signs that a dog is mad is a thick and ropy brown mucous clinging to his lips, which he often tries vainly to tear away with his paws or wash away with wa- ter. If your dog is bitten by any other dog, watch him carefully. If he is infected by rabies you will discover signs of it possibly in from six to ten days. Then he will be restless, often getting up only to lie down again, changing his position impatiently, turning from side to side, and constantly licking or scratching some part of his head, limbs or body. He will be irritable and inclined to dash at other animals, and he will sometimes snap at objects which he imagines to be near him. He will be excessively thirsty, lapping water eagerly and often. Then there will be glandular swellings about his jaws and throat, and he will vainly endeavor to rid himself of a thick, ropy, mucous discharge from his mouth and throat. If he can, he will probably stray away from home and trot slowly and mournfully along the highway or across the country, meddling with neither man nor beast, unless they approach him, and then giving a single snap. The only exception to this behavior occurs in ferocious dogs, which, during the earlier stage of excitement, may attack any living object in sight. These symptoms of rabies are condensed from valuable information received from physicians of undoubted authority." The following interesting article was written by Mrs. Sarah K. Bol- ton, the eminent authoress, who has written many books on animals, and who is a great friend of dogs, is clearly entitled to space in this book. Mrs. Bolton's last book, "Our Devoted Friend, the Dog," should be read by every dog lover. It is published by L. C. Page & Co., Boston, Mass.- Send and get it. "Almost weekly or monthly in summer we have a 'mad dog' scare. Some dog has been frothing at the mouth, which is never a sign of rabies, but of sickness or a fit; is chased by a crowd and after crawling under some porch or shed for protection, is killed by the random and numerous shots of some policemen. "We ought to learn from the experience of others that there is very little danger from the bite of a dog. Let any person ask a dozen men if they have ever been bitten by a dog and probably more than half will say yes, in boyhood or later in life, with no evil results whatever. "Dr. Gordon Stables, a prominent Englishman, says: 'All my life I have been among dogs. I have written five books on them. I have han- dled as many as 30,000 dogs a year. I have been bitten very often, and care no more for a bite than I do for the scratch of a pin; yet I have never seen a case of rabies, and I do not believe such exists.' "Surgeon General Thornton says: 'I have served in India for thirty- five years, and was for many years in medical charge of a large Indian district, with a population of 2,000,000. Six dispensaries where about 100,000 people were treated annually were under my superintendence, yet, although dog bites were frequent, I never met a single case of hydro- phobia in a native Indian, and I believe that the experience of others who have been civil surgeons in India is similar to mine.' 19G iTYDROPITOmA. "Dr. Stockweii, a celebrated authority on dog disease, says: 'Distem- per, toothache, earache, epilepsy and the whole class of nervous diseases to which dogs are subject are constantly taken for rabies. Personally, after moio than thirty years' experience as - a dog owner and student of canine and comparative medicine, I have yet to meet with a genuine case of rabies in the dog, and of some scores of so-called rabid dogs submitted to me for inspection I have found one and all to be suffering from other and comparatively innocent diseases.' "Dr. Charles W .Dulles, the eminent lecturer on the History of Medi- cine at the University of Pennsylvania, says: 'After 16 years of investigation' 'he has failed to find a single case of hydrophobia 'that can be conclusively proved to have resulted from the bite of a dog or any other cause.' Dr. Dulles says in regard to thej.reatment of a dog bite: "I am strong- ly opposed to the practice of cauterizing with silver nitrate. I have seen and treated very many dog bites, and have not used lunar caustic for 13 years, and no person that I have treated has yet developed hydrophobia, or that the mortality of those treated by me is less than that of those treated in Pasteur institutes. My treatment is simply through surgical cleaning and the application of a simple antiseptic dressing for a few days, with the positive assurance that there will be no danger of any dis- ease." Dr. Irving C. Rosse says in a paper read before the American Neuro- logical Association, Philadelphia, June 3, 1895: "In Asia Minor and in Constantinople, the home of pariah dogs, one never hears of hydrophobia. The secretary of the Japanese legation in Washington tells me that he has never known of the disease in Japan, and that in Korea, with more dogs than any other country, such a thing as hydrophobia is unheard of. In London, with its five and one-half million inhabitants? but one case was reported in 1892." Dr. Dulles finds from statistics gathered in the United States, that there is only one hydrophobia case to four million inhabitants. Of 267 per- sons in the U. S. bitten by dogs supposed to be rabid, he says only eight persons have died. • Many of the best physicians recommended hot water baths for dog bites, as is done in India, rather than the Pasteur system, with its great expense and doubtful results. Professor Peter, the able editor of the French Medical Journal, says: "M. Pasteur does not cure hydrophobia — he gives it!" A physician describes the system as the "inoculating usually wholly uncontaminated human beings with the most terrible virus known to science — to-wit, that of hydrophobia." "The Pasteur advocates admit that only from 5 to 10 per cent of per- sons bitten by a rabid animal ever have hydrophobia, with no treatment whatever. The writer of this article has been bitten several times, and would never allow the wound to be cauterized. "Even if there be such a disease as hydrophobia in man, which is probably blood poisoning ( a thorn of a rose, the prick of a pin, the scratch of a baby's finger nail, the point of a lead pencil stuck behind the ear, the cut on the neck of a stiff linen collar have all produced blood poisoning), and if there be such a disease as rabies in a dog, which is probably dis- temper or epilepsy, it does not seem to be found among the homeless or unlicensed dogs, or those that roam the streets, which are the ones killed from the cruel supposition that they especially are dangerous. "Dr. Matthew Woods, of Philadelphia, says: 'At the Philadelphia dog pound, where, on an average, over 6,000 vagrant dogs are taken up an- nually, and where the catchers and helpers are frequently bitten, not one case of hydrophobia has occurred during its entire history of 2 5 years, in which time 150,000 dogs have been handled.' "At the dog shelter in New York City the Superintendent told me he had been bitten over a hundred times and paid no attention to it what- ever. In killing 50,000 unlicensed dogs each year, to the great shame of an indifferent money-getting city, New York has not found one case of rabies. London, Eng., kills nearly the same number, and has not seen a case HYDROPHOBIA " ~ 197 among its unlicensed clogs. Among the thousands of dogs killed after the brutal muzzling order in Washington, n. C, last year not one case of rabies was found. Let the poor people keep dogs. They are good companions for their children, and do not lead to the workhouse or the jail. They are the best guard for our houses where there are no police; indeed cheaper than policemen, and usually more easily found when wanted. We spend money to give playgrounds and entertainments for children, and that Is well, but their dogs give them more comfort, usually, than almost any other one thing, as boys and girls will universally testify. "Let the dogs live. The cars will necessarily kill some. They are not long lived at the best. They give us devotion, companionship, and ought to make us kinder and more gentle, from their helplessness and dependence upon us. They are good friends, to some very unfeeling people. Do not chain them up. Repeal our cruel laws. Let us, a professedly Christian city, be as humane as the unchristian Turk, or the worshipers of Buddha in India. Let us honor ourselves by doing justice to the speechless. Let the dogs live." Here I give a cure for hydrophobia, a clipping, from a paper: "The time between the biting of an animal by a mad dog and the show- ing signs of hydrophobia is not less than nine days, but may be nine months. After the animal has become rabid the scratch of a tooth upon a person or slobber coming in contact with a sore, or raw place, will produce hydropho- bia just the same as if bitten by a mad dog. "Hydrophob'a can be prevented, and I will give what is known to be an infallible remedy for man and beast if properly administered. A dose for a horse or cow should be four times as much as for a person. It is not too late to give the medicine any time before the spasms come on. The dose for a person is one and one-half ounces of elecamnane root bruised, put in a pint of new milk, reduced one-half by boil'ng; take all at once in the morning, fasting until the afternoon, or at least a very light diet until several hours are passed. The second dose same as first, except take two ounces of the root. The third same as the second. Three doses are all that are needed and there need be no fear, as I know from my own experi- ence, and know of numbers of cases where it was entirely successful. This is no guesswork. The persons alluded to had been bitten by their own dogs, which were then tied up to see if they were really mad. They proved to be mad and the remedy was successful. A physician told me he had known of the use of this remedy for over thirty years and never knew it to fail when properly administered. He related a case where a number of cows were bitten, and penned half in one pen and half in another; to half the remedy was given and were saved. The other half died from hydrophobia." Let us not become insane on the hydrophobia question. Let the dogs have plenty of water, don't tie them up in hot weather, and don't make the poor animals chase for miles after a bicycle, carriage or electric car on a hot •and dusty road. If there is a spectacle humiliating to those who wish to respect their fellow man. it is the sight of a dog, in the last stages of ex- haustion, struggling to keep up with some vehicle upon which his selfish master is taking his ease, unmindful of ils misery. The following article was written by D. E. Salmon, D. V. M., Chief of the Bureau of Animal Industry, in the Yearbook of the Department of Agriculture, issued at Washington, D. C, and as will be seen, he is a firm believer in rabies. I reproduce it as authority from the other side of the question. This is the concluding speech to the jury by the "Prosecuting Attorney," whose duty it is to always find the prisoner guilty: "The symptoms of rabies are such as we should expect from serious disease of the central organs of the nervous system: F'rsr, Irritation; sec- ond, paralysis and death. The rabies virus appears to have little effect upon the system until it reaches the brain and spinal cord. There it multiplies, sets up irritation, and finally interrupts the functions. "Rabies is generally divided into two forms: First, furious rabies; second, dumb rabies. In the former the animal is irritable, aggressive, and 198 , • HYDROPHOBIA bites nearly every object which comes its way; in the latter the muscles of its jaw are paralyzed almost from the first appearance of symptoms, and being unable to bite, the animal remains more quiet and tranquil. Essen- tilly the. two forms of the disease are the same, but owing to the parts of the brain attacked and the acuteness of the attack, paralysis appears much sooner in one of these forms than in the other. The saliva from a case of dumb rabies is just as dangerous and virulent as that from a case of furious rabies. The dogs with dumb rabies are less dangerous simply because they are unable to bite and thus insert their saliva into a wound. "The impression should not be formed that dumb rabies and furious rabies always represent two distinct types of disease, and that one may at a glance classify every case as belonging to one or the other of these types. Quite the contrary. The typical cases belong to the two extremes of symp- toms, and there are all graduations between the two. In fact, almost every case of furious rabies sooner or later change into the dumb form, that is, the final stage of rabies is almost invariably paralytic, and the dumb form in its typical development occurs when the paralysis appears on the first day of the disease. The paralysis may not appear, however, until the second, or third, or some subsequent day. "Again ,a dog does not necessarily bite everything about it even though it has rabies and its jaws are not paralyzed. It may be combative and furious all of the time, or only a part of the time, or not at all. There is no disease in which the symptoms vary more than in rabies of the dog, and it is, consequently, impossible in any description of moderate length to give an idea of the different forms under which it may appear. Furious Rabies. "Fleming has well said that it is a great and dangerous error to sup- pose that the disease commences with signs of raging madness, and that the earliest phase of the malady is ushered in with fury and destruction. The symptoms appear very gradually, and at first there is only the slightest evidence of brain disease. The animal's habits and behavior are changed. It may be more restless and affectionate than usual, seeking to be near its master or mistress, fawning, licking the hands or face", and apparently seek- ing for sympathy or assistance. Such caresses are, however, extremely dangerous, for the animal's tongue, moist with virulent saliva, coming in contact with a part where the skin is thin, abraded, or wounded, may fatally infect the person with whom it is endeavoring to demonstrate its affection. The smallest abrasion may be, as Bouley has impressively said, a door opened to death; and such a death! The instances in which hydrophobia has developed from such inoculations are very numerous, and everyone should be warned against this kiss of affection, which carries with it not only death, but sufferings which are far more to be dreaded than the fatal . termination. • "In most cases dogs first become dull, gloomy, morose, taciturn, seek- ing solitude and isolation in out-oMhe-way places, or retiring under pieces of furniture. But in this retirement they can not rest; they are uneasy and agitated; they lie down and assume the attitude of repose, but in a few minutes are up again, walking hither and thither, 'seeking rest, but finding none.' Occasionally this restlessness may disappear for a time, and the animal become lively and affectionate; oftener it sinks into a sullen gloominess, from which even its master's voice rouses it but temporarily. It becomes more and more desperate in its efforts to prepare a comfortable bed, pawing or scattering the straw, or, if in a house, scratching, tumbling and tearing cushions, rugs, curtains, carpets and everything of that kind within its reach. "At this period dogs may have aberrations of the senses, of the sight, hearing, and feeling, which cause hallucinations and lead them to think that they are being annoyed by something, or that some animal or person is endeavoring to injure them. They crouch, ready to spring upon an ene- HYDROPHOBIA 199 my; they rush forward and snap at the air; they throw theselves, howling and furious, against a wall, as though they heard sounds beyond it. "While at first the affected dog may not be disposed to bite, it be- comes more dangerous as his hallucinations and delirium increase. The voice of the master or of an acquaintance may dispel the aberrations tem- porarily and lead him to friendly demonstrations, but an unexpected move- ment or touch may bring on another access and lead to a quick and un- expected bite. "The disturbance of the sensations leads to chills and itching. If the place where the bite occurred is accessible the dog licks the scar, and later bites and tears the tissues. This tearing of the flesh is not always confined to the site of the inoculation, but certain regions of the body appear to lose their sensitiveness, and at the same time to convey to the brain the sensation of itching. The animal in this case bites into its own flesh with apparent pleasure and satisfaction. Such animals take food until the disease is considerably advanced, if it is something which can be swallowed without mastication; other- wise it is dropped after remaining a short time in the mouth. "Difficulty in swallowing is an early symptom, and frequently leads the unsuspecting owner to conclude that the animal has a bone in his throat. A dog which appears to have a bone in his throat is on general principles one of the most dangerous animals in existence. The supposed bone may be there, but on the other hand the symptoms which lead to this supposition may be due to partial paralysis caused by rabies, and the owner may be inoculated with the virulent saliva while thrusting his finger or hand in the dog's mouth to discover a bone which has no existence but in his imagination. "It is commonly believed that mad dogs have fear of water and are unable to drink, but there could be no greater mistake. In this respect they differ entirely from the human patient. They have no fear or dread of water, but continue to drink until paralysis has progressed so far that they are no longer able to swallow. The fact that a suspected dog is seen to drink or to wade into a stream is consequently no evidence that he is not mad. "When the furious symptoms come on, the dog leaves his home and goes upon a long chase, with no apparent object in view other than to be traveling onward. He trots at a rapid pace, eye haggard, tail depressed, indifferent to his surroundings. He flies at and bites dogs and persons whom he meets, but usually does not apparently search for them, or even notice them if they remain quiet. Dogs in this condition may travel many miles, and finally drop from exhaustion and die. Often after an absence of a day or two they return to their home, exhausted, emaciated, covered with dust and blood, and presenting a most forlorn and miserable appear- ance. Those who have pity for such an animal and try to make it clean and comfortable, are in great danger of being bitten, for the disease has advanced to a point where the delirium or insanity is most marked, and where a treacherous bite is most common. Doubtless the clog has no in- tention of injuring a friend, and would not do so did he net see that friend transformed by his disordered vision into some distorted and un- recognizable shape, which he thinks is about to injure him. But while we may give the dog due credit for not intentionally and deliberately inoculating his friends with his fatal virus, let us not forget that the inoculation is no less deadly because it is the result of the abnormal working of a disordered mind. Whatever the sentiment may be which leads the dog to turn upon his master or mistress and inflict an injury, the duty remains the same for the owner to take due precautions to prevent such an oc- currence. "If the animal, instead of being allowed to escape, is kept confined, the paroxysms of fury are seen to occur intermittently, or, in the absence of provacation, they may be entirely wanting. If excited, it howls, rushes upon objects that are thrust toward it, or throws itself against the bars of its cage and bites with great fury. 200 HYDROPHOBIA "As death approaches, the animal becomes exhausted and scarcely able to stand; the eyes are dull and sunken, and the expression is that of pain and despair. Paralysis appears in the jaws or in the posterior ex- tremities and extends rapidly to other parts of the body. The animal, be- ing unable to stand, lies extended upon its side; the respiration becomes more and more difficult; there are spasmodic contractions of certain groups of muscles, complete prostration, and death. "The ordinary course of the disease is four or five days; it may be as short as two or as long as ten days. Dumb Rabies. "When this form of the disease is typical, it comes on with restless- ness, depression, a tendency to lick objects, and. paralysis of the muscles, which close the jaws. As a consequence of the paralysis, the lower jaw drops, the animal is unable to close the mouth, the tongue hangs out, and an abundance of saliva escapes. The mucous membrane of the mouth be- comes dry, discolored, and covered with dust. The animal remains quiet, does not respond to provocations, and appears to understand its helpless- ness. As Bouley has said, the animal cannot bite and does not desire to bite. "When dumb rabies follows a period in which the animal has been affected with the furious form, the desire and tendency to bite may be" retaine deven after the jaw is paralyzed. "The course of the disease is short, death usually occurring in from two to four days. "The dumb form of rabies is very common, and many persons know it as 'drop jaw' who have no idea of its true nature. "Many of the common mistakes with reference to rabies arise from an imperfect knowledge of the symptoms. It is on this point that there is greatest need of educational work. Bouley has most earnestly warned us to 'distrust. a dog when it shows signs of illness; every sick dog should as a rule be suspected; more particularly distrust a dog when it be- comes dull, morose and seeks for solitude, which appears not to know where to rest, which is always on the move, prowling, snapping at the air, and suddenly barking at nothing when all around is perfectly still, whose countenance is somber, and only assumes its usual animated ex- pression by brief starts; beware of the dog that seeks and scrapes inces- santly, and exhibits aggressive movements against phantoms; and, finally, beware, above all, of the dog which has become too fond of you, and is continually endeavoring to lick the hands or face." The Period of Incubation of Rabies. The period of incubation of a contagious disease is the time which elapses between the inoculation or exposure and the appearance of the first symptoms. With rabies this period varies remarkably. It may be as short as six or seven days, and it occasionally exceeds one hundred days. In rare cases it has been reported on good authority that a year, or even fourteen months, elapsed between the time the animal was bitten and the time when the disease manifested itself. The majority of cases develop in from three to seven weeks. During the greater part of the period of incubation the infected animal is healthy, and would not cause disease in any animal or person which it bites. The saliva may become virulent, however, two or three days before the appearance of the first symptoms, and any animal or person bitten after the contagion has contaminated the saliva is, of course, liable to contract the disease. There is a very erroneous and rather stupid belief, quite common, to the effect that if a dog bites a person and becomes mad at any time thereafter the person so bitten will contract hydrophobia. This fallacy may have arisen from some Instance In which a person had been bitten HYDROPHOBIA 201 within a few days of the appearance of the symptoms of disease in the dog, and when the saliva was already virulent. However this may be, it is perfectly certain that a dog can not convey this disease when he does not have it or before he has himself contracted it. If, therefore, a dog does not show symptoms of rabies within a week from the time the bite is inflicted there is no danger of the person contracting the disease. The only possibility of an exception to this rule is the very doubtful one, that in extremely rare instances a dog may have rabies and recover from it without showing characteristic symptoms. A very few cases of this kind have been observed among dogs artificially inoculated, but it has not yet been shown that their saliva became virulent, or that similar cases occur under natural conditions. The fact remains, however, that a person is in no danger of contracting rabies because a healthy dog has bitten him, which dog is afterward inoculated with rabies." The following — that I found in some paper, is too good to leave out of this book: "It is a pleasure to note that Superintendent Frael of the New York Department of Health comes out flat-footed regarding the extreme rarity of rabies, asserting that what people suffer from is false or pseudo rabies brought about by scare. He draws attention to the fact that during the life of the New York Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, which was started in 1894, no less than three millions of dogs and cats have been handled. That the employes engaged in the work of collecting the strays number about thirty, and on an average everyone of them is bitten four times every month, or fifty times a year, and that some of the dogs' were subsequently declared by the local authorities to be rabid. On this basis of computation there has been thirty thousand bites by all sorts of ani- mals and one hundred and fifty different men have been employed during the twenty years, yet not a single case of hydrophobia has resulted, all that the men did being to cleanse the wound thoroughly and have it dresseu. Of course, we clog people, those of us who have had the greatest ex- perience Avith dogs, have always held similar views, and your correspon- dent's very simple remedy has for years been to turn the water faucet on the wound, so as to thoroughly cleanse it, and while this is being done, get someone to take bicarbonate of soda, always to be found in every house- hold, or if not, then common baking powder, and make a creamy paste, which spread on a clean piece of linen and put that on the wound and then, bind it. After a while the emulsion will dry, but pour a little water on the binding, so as to soak to the dressing, and that will do. You will have no feeling of anything wrong and there is little question that it is this feeling of something wrong that causes this pseudo-hydrophobia. Dog men cannot be too emphatic in telling people not to be afraid of a dog bite, and if the United States would only pass a law to hang, draw and quarter every managing editor of a paper that published a mad dog story, every doctor who told a patient or suggested to a patient the possibility of hydrophobia and towed the Pasteur institutes out to the middle of the Atlantic and sunk them with all hands, that would end rabies and the hydrophobia scare." And now read this: ' "The late Dr. Michel Peter, the greatest clinical expert of France, said: 'Pasteur does not prevent hydrophobia; he gives it.' This opinion was indorsed by such scientific leaders as Dr. T. M. Dalon, F. R. C. S., Sir Benjamin Ward Richardson, Dr. Charles Bell-Taylor, Surgeon-General Charles Gordon, of England, and Professor VonFrisch, of Vienna. The celebrated Dr. A. Lutaud, editor-in-chief of the 'Jouranl de Medecine de Paris,' said in that journal on September 16, 1899, referring to the savants at the Pasteur Institute: 'They have not diminished the mortality; they have augmented it, in creating the 'madness of laboratories,' very often fatal, with which they have inoculated a great number of individuals.' " 202 HYDROPHOBIA THE LAST GREAT CASE OF HYDROPHOBIA. The man who wrote the following, that I found in a magazine called "Everything," and I wish I knew the author's name, so as to credit him properly, (and also to shake his hand, has a great brain, and full of com- mon sense), so here's the article, well worth reading: "For one time in six thousand years as far as history records one man suffered death from hydrophobia caused by a dog licking his hand. That is the story sent out and that is the story that has caused the world to talk and inspired newspapers to write terrible head lines about what to expect next. We do not believe that any man ever died from hydrophobia caused by a dog licking his hand. In truth, outside of those who make their money in that way there is grave doubt as to whether there is any such thing as hydrophobia outside the patient's mind. If a man can be hypnotized by another man and made to think that he is a dog; and bark and howl; or be made to think he is a millionaire or a dancing master, as people have been hypnotized, then a man can hypnotize himself, if he has the power of hypnotism, and it is not a far cry to believe that a man who has been bitten or a man who never saw a dog can hypnotize himself and make believe that he has rabies, so-called and so defined; and die in the throes of agony. In a recent number of Dumb Animals, that sterling paper published by George T. Angel, a writer in some other newspaper was copied. His name was J. M. Greene, and his article was addressed to The Editor of the Tribune and is worth reading. We do not know anything about the Pasteur Institute he describes, but we do know that hydrophobia is essentially ex- aggerated. Mr. Greene said: "Much has been written lately in the press regarding the great dan- ger from the prevalence of 'hydrophobia' in New York city and elsewhere, and much more of the same terror will doubtless be written before the season is far advanced. Will you allow me a brief space for a few ideas on this subject? "In the first place, if there be any one point absolutely certain and established, it is that the danger of getting the above disease has been greatly exaggerted, and that the great majority of alleged cases, of not only 'hydrophobia' in man, but also 'rabies' in the dog, have been cases of some other disease. It is also easy to see whence comes the influence causing this dread and delusion. The year following the opening of the first 'Pasteur Institute' in Paris, in 1885, the number of 'hydrophobia' pa- tients treated in that city leaped to three thousand; previous to that, Paris could boast of only about thirty 'cases' a year! True 'hydrophobia' is a disease so rare that it is not considered worth mentioning in mortality re- ports. Well known medical investigators who have been searching for many years for authentic cases have failed to find one. Such are Dr. Lutaud, of Paris; Dr. Bell-Taylor, of England; Dr. Charles W. Dulles, of Philadelphia; Dr. E. C. Spitzke, of New York; Professor J. W. Hearn, of Philadelphia; Dr. Hiram Corson and Dr. Thomas Mayo. It is a notor- ious fact that, all over the world, societies and institutes that have the handling of thousands of vicious dogs, frequently biting their keepers, never hear of the disease. "But spurious cases, caused by nervous dread, are common. As in the case of Mme. Chevalier, of Paris, instances have occurred from 'sug- gestion' alone, where the patient has not been bitten at all! Such cases, it is no injustice to say, are the product of the morbid fear disseminated and fostered by 'Pasteur Institutes.' These concerns do a great business throughout the world. But on what basis? I have before me a record, carefully revised from year to year, which shows that up to January 1st of the present year 1,857 deaths from 'hydrophobia' have occurred among patients who have undergone the 'Pasteur treatment' according to directions, in many of which cases the animals which did the biting remained alive and well! In this record names, dates, and other particu- lars are given. HYDROPHOBIA 203 "The 'Pasteur method' depends for its commercial success on the most colossal pretensions and distortion of facts and figures. Among its 'patients' are numbered those bitten by 'rabid' dogs and those bitten by animals only 'suspected!'. Again, dogs are often 'found' to have been rabid by postmortem examination and by inoculating other animals with portions of their brain or spinal cord, both of which methods are denounced as inconclusive by leading scientists, such as Dr. Colin, of Alfort, and Pro- fessor Fleming, of England. Many substances, such as common soap, when inoculated into animals, produce meningitis, the symptoms of which are almost identical with those of rabies; Surgeon-General Sternberg has even produced these symptoms in rabbits with his own saliva! Moreover, it is well known that, with no treatment whatever, from 90 to 9 5 per cent of those bitten by actually 'rabid' dogs recover. All these facts tend to show that the statistics of the 'Pasteur Institutes' are absolutely farcical, and as a consequence they are ridiculed by every leading scientific author- ity who has carefully investigated, and who charge them with actually causing 'hydrophobia' in many patients by their inoculations with diseased animal matter. This pernicious and most dangerous principle of deliber- ately introducing into the life-current septic matter from 'rabid' animals, has without doubt been the cause of numerous cases of 'paralytic rabies' or 'laboratory rabies' in patients. The late Dr. Michel Peter, the greatest clinical expert in France, said: 'Pasteur does not prevent hydrophobia; he gives it.' This opinion was indorsed by such scientific leaders as Dr. T. M. Dalon, F. R. C. S., Sir Benjamin Ward Richardson, Dr. Charles Bell-Taylor, Surgeon-General Charles Gordon, of England, and Professor Von Frish, of Vienna. The celebrated Dr. A. Lutaud, editor-in-chief of the 'Journal de Medecine de Paris,' said in that journal on September 16, 1899, referring to the savants at the Pasteur Institute: "They have not diminished the mortality; they have augmented it, in causing the 'mad- ness of laboratories,' very often fatal with which they have inoculated a great number of individuals.' "As the clanger of 'hydrophobia' in man has been viciously exag- gerated, so has been that of 'rabies' in the dog. It is safe to say that at least 99 out of every 100 alleged cases are cases of ill treatment, heat prostration, fits, thirst, stomach trouble, epilepsy, or similar affections. A dog with true 'rabies' does not froth at the mouth; neither does he go out of his way to attack, but gives every indication of wishing to be let alone. These facts, however, have no weight with some people, whose arrogance and bigotry regarding our relation to the 'lower animals' pass comprehension. One swears the life of one child is 'worth all the dogs in the world;' another would have all the clogs in the state muzzled on ac- count of one case of alleged 'rabies.' Man spends his life in abusing and slaughtering his fellow-creatures; but, for-sooth, if some unfortunate mem- ber of that species most faithful to man, wild with ill treatment, or the disease above mentioned, rushes he knows not whither, beset by imagin- ary foes, then Man joyfully seizes the opportunity to attack the sufferer with every convenient weapon, as in former days, under like conditions, he treated his fellow-man! And then, if bitten by his victim, he resorts to an 'institute,' founded on and perpetuating the horrible sufferings of artificially maddened creatures (a supply of which, in a state of madness is constantly kept on hand, whether 'used' or not), whose poisoned tissues he absorbs into his circulation as an antidote. Is not this a specacle for Gods and men?" There is no doubt in this world but what two-thirds of the Na- tional Belly-aching is the direct result of imagination. There is no doubt but what if a man can hypnotize another man, if he has the power he can and does hypnotize himself, and if this be true, and it is an accepted truth, then all some nerve-wracked fellow has to do who insists that some- thing is the matter with him, is to imagine that a clog bit him and then keep following up the idea and finally die like a dog might die with rabies. That is the long and the short of the matter in this world 204 r I I i HYDROPHOBIA where Wall-Eyed Science is on the make and whe«re men must earn their bread. The man who owns pets and loves his pets is a bigger man and a better man than the narrow souled and incomprehensible creature who is too stingy to feed them or too mean to want to give them a place after God Almighty formed and fashioned them and sent them here for some good purpose. Hydrophobia is a dream — a self hypnotic state aided and abated by those who want to cash the coin. That's all. I hope my readers have read all of the many pages devoted to hydro- phobia, (and these pages could have been put in this book-as advertise- ments at $35.00 per page just as well,) as there was no trouble in getting the ads — but this book was written to do good to dogs — and their owners — much in preference to the profits in coin — because it is — has been — and will be my highest aim in life, to do good to dogs — the best, truest, and faithful friend we have — four legs instead of two. MISCELLANEOUS 205 AN ASSORTMENT OF CURES For Troubles a Dog May Have, That May Not be Found Under Headings Elsewhere of Regular Diseases. Dogs Eating Their Own Filth. — I have a fox terrier bitch puppy, eight months old, that has a disgusting habit of eating her own droppings, also those of other dogs; will pick them up and drag them into the kennel. I have tried everything that I could think of to stop the practice. She is large and healthy, but must have some trouble with her stomach or she would not do as she does. I have six dogs and they never offer to do what she appears to delight in. She will make her deposit and then turn around and eat it right after I have got through feeding her. I feed twice a day. What can I do to stop that filthy habit? Whipping does no good. Answer. — Watch her closely and cover the feces with powdered cayenne pepper. What can I do for my twenty-months-old greyhound? About two months ago I noticed he would eat his own and other droppings, Including manure; have tried pepper, and also sulphur and lard, but to no purpose. Treated him with Dent's Vermifuge, but have not noticed any worms. He eats well and has plenty of exercise, but seems to get thinner every day, and lately will lie down after a little run. He has a little matter In his eyes. Answer. — «ive him, before meals, three times a day. a pill containing nux vomica one-half grain, gentian four grains, sulphate of iron three grains; after meals give him a grain of pure pepsin. Catarrh. — What can I do for my hound? He sneezes about all the time and discharges at the nose. I have tried several remedies without success. He eats well and is bright and active. Answer. — Take equal parts of distilled water and listerine and spray into the nostrils twice daily. (See Catarrh.) Sore Mouth. — What will cure my dogs? I have lost recently six or eight very fine dogs. They have very sore mouths and ropes of saliva run from their mouths; they can not eat anything or even drink water; they lick their fore feet all the while, and finally die after great suffering. Some people call it slobber disease, and I have tried every remedy I can hear of, such as chlorate of potash, alum, borax, sage tea and honey, none of which did any good. Answer. — A malignant form of sore mouth. Take five grains of per- manganate of potash to one ounce of distilled water and wash the diseased parts three times daily. Feed milk and raw eggs. (See also Canker of the Mouth.) Urticaria, or Nettle Rash. — My pointer dog, nine months old, scratches and bites himself a great deal; his ears are thick and leathery and quite hot and red inside; his eyes are red and much matter and watery discharge from them; he has a very offensive smell about him all the time; he smells worse and scratches most when in a warm room; very small breakings out come between his forelegs, which heal up and disappear in a few days; his a,ppetite is good. I feed him corn bread and milk, table scraps and a little cooked meat. He grows fast and is fat enough. I keep him tied except for an hour or so each day. Please name disease and prescribe. Answer. — Urticaria, nettle rash; stop feeding corn and substitute cooked turnips, beats and cabbage; take oil of tar four ounces, alcohol four ounces, cottonseed oM eight ounces, mix and apply all over the body 206 MISCELLANEOUS for six consecutive days, giving a bath on the seventh day; repeat treatment if necessary. For four consecutive mornings give one ounce of castor oil and twenty drops of cascara segrada. Sore Feet. — What can I do for my beagle bitch, two and a half years old, who eats well and seems well, but her feet get sore, sometimes be- tween the toes and sometimes under the toes? Answer. — Make a strong decoction of white oak bark, and bathe the feet with it twice daily. Sore on Ear. — My dog has a large sore on the outside of his ear, caused by constant rubbing. What would you prescribe? I have used carbolic salve, but this seems to make him want to scratch all the more. I have tied his hind legs together but he bites off the cord, and when I put any- thing over his head he works it off. Answer. — Cleanse the sore with warm water and soap, and apply the tincture of iodine ounce, or use Spratt's Locurium, a great healer. To Dry up Milk. — My bitch's puppies died at birth. What shall I do? Bitch has bag full of milk. Answer. — Rub the bag with camphorated oil, especially if the teats are hardened. Another remedy is alcohol, four ounces to a quart of water. Do not draw off the milk now, as that encourages the secretion. (See also Caked Breast.) Sores on Hips and Hocks. — Setter has sores on hips and hocks; has been troubled with them some time. Answer. — Apply boracic acid ointment. (See also Sores.) Goitre. — I have on my hands what I suppose is a case of goitre; the dog is five months old, but the protuberance on the throat is developing very rapidly. What can I do to remove it as speedily as possible without injury? "Paint with iodine once daily and give internally, if a small dog, one grain, and if a fair-sized dog, two grains of iodide of potash three times daily for two weeks." Sore Feet.-^— My English setter dog, three years old, feet get sore when I work him; they get feverish and matter is discharged from between the toes. What shall I do? "Paint dog's feet with a solution of sulphate of copper, one dram to the ounce of water." Antidote for Strychnine Poisoning. — What would be the most effective antidote one could carry while on a hunt in case of strychnine poisoning of the dogs? Answer. — Give an emetic if possible, then give from twenty to thirty grains of chloral hydrate, administered by the rectum; after giving the injection, bring pressure on the anus to prevent its expulsion. (See Poisoning.) Inflammation of the Lungs. — Please prescribe for my pointer bitch, six years of age, which has every symptom of inflammation of the lungs. I gave her a large dose of oil, which she threw up without any action. After taking her temperature (104) I gave her an injection of soap suds and she passed a stool that was hard and showed evidence of fever. I then gave her two grains of calomel and am now giving her one drop of aconit every hour to reduce the temperature. She breathes very hard and staggers and runs sidewise when in motion, and saliva runs constantly from her mouth. Gave a feed of soft bread with a few scraps of beef chopped into it. Answer. — Give her two grains of quinine every three or four hours and use small doses of stimulants, such as a teaspoonful of brandy, four or five times a day; keep up her appetite by chopped raw beef and gelatin, beef broths, etc. (See Lungs, Inflammation of.) Chronic Constipation. — English setter, age seven and one-half years, weight fifty-two pounds, has been constipated for a long time; it is almost impossible for him to make a stool; in doing so he slides all over the street without accomplishing much, and when successful the stool is very hard. I have been relieving him occasionally by doses of physic. I saw slight traces MISCELLANEOUS ' 207, of blood in his stool on November 12. He is a ravenous eater and hunts well all day. Please prescribe. Answer. — Feed him largely on oatmeal and cornmeal; give occasional doses of castor oil, and three times a day give fifteen grains of the hypo- sulphite of soda and one-fourth grain of nux vomica. (See Constipation.) Chorea. — Diagnose and prescribe for an English setter, weight fifty pounds, aged three years, who had chorea. It is chronic and confined to one side of his head; that is ,to the brain on one side of the center of his head; there is a decided and noticeable rise and fall on the affected side of the skull, but nowhere else in his body. I have tried mild remedies, and at times have reduced the disease, but on stopping the medicine the trouble would commence. Kindly prescribe something powerful that will strike at the root of the disease. Answer. — Give internally the following: Fluid extract of nux vomica thirty drops, fluid extract ergot two and one-half drams, iodide of potash one dram, water to make two ounces; give a teaspoonful twice a day for four days, then three times a day for two weeks. (See Chorea.) Antidote for Strychnine. — I noticed in a recent issue the query. What is best to carry to antidote strychnine poison, when shooting. I have saved many clogs in the field and in different sections where I have lived by mother tincture belladonna. Get the green root or mother tincture at any homeopathic pharmacy, and if the dog has had but one spasm, ten to fifteen drops poured down his throat will antidote the poison; if not, repeat every fifteen minutes. When the dog has had the poison down' long enough to cause paralysis, and is unable to swallow, a syringe can be used per rectum — -twenty to thirty drops; and seldom does one have to use but two doses, either by mouth or rectum. I have saved dogs when given up by veterinary surgeons, and I believe any dog can be saved so long as there is circulation enough to take up the antidote. (See also Poisoning.) Breaking Dog to Collar and Chain. — The sooner a young dog is taught to go in a collar and lead the better. It is best to begin when the puppy is three or four months old, first by letting it wear a collar for a week or two, then tie a piece of thick string to the collar, and let it go about with this for a few days. At the end of this period substitute the string for a chain, catching hold of the chain with one hand every now and then, and giving it a dainty bit with the other. In this way it will get quite accustomed to what the dog, no doubt, thinks a strange method of depriving it of its sweet liberty. Don't drag the dog along and expect it to become accustomed to the feel of the collar by giving it a sore and stiff neck. That is the way to make it hate a collar. Crusty Ears. — "A dog, four years old, whose ears are affected with some sort of skin disease. The backs of his ears seem dry and scurfy, the hair falls out and the dog is continually scratching them. There is no swelling, no sores, no bleeding; the skin seems simply drying, but perfectly healthy otherwise. Please prescribe." Answer. — Apply resinol ointment once daily after washing the ear. Eberhart's Skin Remedy will cure this. Apply twice daily. After putting a little of it on the ear, rub and work it well with thumb and finger till the scurvy matter softens and you remove it from the ear by rubbing. Continue daily treatment till cured — a matter of a week or so as a rule. Carbolized Vaseline (How to Make). — Carbolized vaseline is an oint- ment often recommended by the veterinary profession, and is often inquired for by dog fanciers. A good plan for making it is as follows: Take six ounces of solid paraphine wax, melt it thoroughly in a saucepan, and when .melted add twelve ounces of vaseline and remelt. Then as it cools add about one dram of pure carbolic acid, and stir thoroughly until cold. This is the official, or British Pharmacopaeia, formula. It involves very little trouble, and makes the most elegant and serviceable preparation. A very fair ointment can be made by simply rubbing pure carbolic acid into 208 MISCELLANEOUS petroleum jelly, say three or four drops to each ounce, but it is very soft, especially in hot weather, and does not keep nearly so well as the first. Terrier Continually Scratching. — Terrier is repeatedly scratching him- self. He has no fleas or anything about his body, is very often washed, so cannot be dirty. It is very annoying. He will roll over on his back, and then try and scratch himself anywhere and everywhere about his body. What shall I do with him? Answer. — Give the dog every week during the hot weather a bath in Standard Disinfectant, diluted with fifty parts of water. Muzzles. The season for muzzles, just when the dog requires a free mouth more than ever, will come around. No comfortable muzzle has yet been invented — nor is it likely to be, since every self-respecting dog has personal objections to being constantly faced by a cage arrangement, and will show his distaste by rubbing on the ground and pawing, with the result that he very soon will make raw and sore places. The buckle of the strap used to fasten the muzzle needs to be carefully arranged and padded to prevent this. Even though this and every other care be taken, in many cases the trouble results, and every owner of good dogs knows how difficult it is when once the hair has been destroyed to bring up appearances again to their original excellence. Tonic Pill for Dog After a Show. — Here is a good recipe for dogs when returning from a show or after any specially hard work. It makes an excellent pill for appetite, and being a mild laxative, is just what a dog ought to have when he comes home. Take of: Compound powder of colocynth 24 grains Sulphate - of iron 12 grains Sulphate of quinine 12 grains Powdered liquorice root 48 grains Extract of gentian, sufficient to make into a suitable mass. Divide into 16 pills (or 32 of half size if desired), Give one of the larger size to a dog of not more than 20 lbs. every four or five hours until a distinctly aperient effect is produced. The smaller pills will answer for smaller dogs, and large dogs can have two or three of the pills, according to circumstances. These pills are best prepared fresh as required. I prefer, however, to use Sergeant's, Clayton's or Dent's Condition Pills much handier. Gelatin or sugar coated, and easier to give. Chronic Cough. — "Pointed dog whose coat was good, healthy in every way, bowels regular, has acted dull for two weeks, wanting to lie down a good bit of the time. Taken for a run after a wheel unless I rode slowly, will begin to cough after a couple miles, and unless given a rest would cough as if he would strangle to death. It is a dry cough, and I have never seen Mm emit anything. He seldom coughs when at home. I treated for worms and got none, gave cough medicine and it done no good." Answer. — It is a chronic cough and hard to cure. Get the "Cough Pill" prescription filled as given in this book, and give a pill night and morning, keeping them up regularly for some weeks. (See Cough.) Weak Joints. — "Basset-hound pup, eleven months old, very weak in joints below pastern, which makes him weak as if he had tender fore feet. He does not knuckle over. I have commenced giving him Parrish's Chemi- cal Food. Can I do better? He has no worms." % Answer. — Continue the Parrish's food, and bathe the legs twice daily with a solution of Tidman's sea salt. Feed principally on raw meat. Cold and Debility. — "Prescribe for my English setter. She had a litter of five puppies, then one eye got sore and a film came over it; she lost her appetite and her milk dried up in two weeks. I have been feeding the puppies on cow's milk ever since. She eats barely enough to keep her alive. She does not run at the nose or the other eye, or cough. What is th« matter with her? MISCELLANEOUS 109 Answar. — Cold and debility. Give her a tablespoonful of the emulsion of Cod Liver Oil three times a day, feed raw, lean beel, chopped fine, milk and eggs, gelatin or anything she will eat, and give five grains of pepsin after meals. Use my eye lotion No. 2 twice a day." Fits. — "My setter, three years old, is subject to fits. Will hunt fast for three or four hours, then get so weak he staggers and finally lies down, unable to get up and limber as a rag; the spell will last an hour. Previous to these spells he is going fast and seems strong. Never whines or makes any noise while he has a fit. Is in good condition." Answer. — "Give 2 grains of iodide of potash three times daily for two weeks, together with one-sixtieth of a grain of strychnine." See also Fits.) Bloody Mucus. — "Please prescribe for my setter dog, three years old, whose bowels are loose, and he is constantly straining and passing a bloody mucus which is becoming quite offensive; his appetite is fairly good; hair in tolerable condition; he is lively enough and hunts quite fast and keeps going. I notice he is losing flesh. Is his condition serious?" Answer. — "Yes, it is serious. Give one ounce of castor-oil, and three times daily give one teaspoon ful of the following mixture: Fluid extract' gentian root one dram, fluid extract hydrastis one dram, tincture of ginger one-half dram; water to make two ounces." Bitch With Pups Won't Eat. — "English setter bitch, weight thirty-eight pounds, who has a litter of ten puppies, four weeks old. She does not eat as she should; every few days she will refuse food and vomit freely, and the only thing I can get her to eat is bread and milk. Her bowels are very loose. Puppies are in good condition. I have been giving them bread and milk also." Answer. — "Wean the puppies as soon as possible, feed the dam lean raw beef, chopped fine, if she will eat it. Give her three grains of pepsin after each meal, also give a tablespoonful of cod liver oil emulsion four times a day." Urinating Too Often. — "My pointer bitch, three years old, that has just had a litter of puppies, which I destroyed as soon as they were born. She tries to make water too often, at least twenty-five times in an hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe." Answer. — "Give your bitch a teaspoonful of sanmetto three times a day for at least two weeks, and if necessary longer; she is suffering from in- flammatory action of the uniary organs." Sore Throat Cough Due to Cold. — "I have a hound with a peculiar af- fection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had a cold I gave him a Cough Cure, but it did not touch him. Although his eyes and mouth are now free from discharge his voice is very hoarse, acting a great deal like a man with a sore throat, requiring an effort to speak. Do you think there is a bone splinter in the throat or is it from a cold? Please prescribe." Answer. — "We think it is a cold, use the following mixture: Muriate ammonia six drams, fluid extract belladonna three drams, fluid extract licorice four ounces, simple syrup four ounces; give a teaspoonful every five hours." Lumps and Sores on Dog. — "I have a pointer pappy about seven months old, and when he was three months old a lump formed on the top of his head; I had him treated by a veterinary who blistered it and opened it, removing some pus. The head soon got well, but a month or so later he took the distemper, which soon yielded to treatment, and he was growing and looking finely, but recently a large lump formed on his left side and three days later a larger one on the left side of his neck. I used blisters on both and they are now discharging pus. The puppy has always been fed liberally on well cooked meat, with plenty of bread and milk, and kept in the best of kenaels. Please prescribe. I have two more of the same litter that went through the distemper all right and show no signs of any other disorder." Answer.-^"Wash out the sores that are discharging pus once a day for 210 , MISCELLANEOUS one week with equal parts of peroxide of hydrogen and water, and give, twice a day, Sergeant's Condition Pills." Lameness From Hard Bunch on Leg. — "Please prescribe for my Eng- lish setter dog, six years old. He has had a hard bunch in the middle joint of his right hindleg for some time; he always chews at it as if it itched, and it is making him lame; he had the same, on each of his two fore- legs, but they went away at length without treatment." Answer. — Give ten grains of the idodide of potash three times a day for two weeks, followed by a Sergeant's Condition Pill twice a day for probably a month. Paint the enlargement with tincture of iodine once daily for a week. Constant and Frequent Urinating. — "An English setter bitch, who eats well, has a good coat, is full of life and seems to be in perfect health, yet when she is lying in one place or sleeping there is a constant but slow discharge of urine, and when she gets up her whole side will be wet. I notice also a matter-like secretion. I have noticed these discharges the past week and cannot understand whether it is a weakness of the kidneys or a disease. What is the trouble? Please prescribe." Answer. — "Give one dram of sanmetto three times a day for a couple of weeks." Bloodshot Eyes. — "My English setter bitch, three years old, had dis- temper badly at one year. Since then her eyes and the lining of eyelids have been red, at times worse than others; there seems to be no inflam- mation, only the white of the eyes and lids are bloodshot, particularly so after a hard hunt or when she is a bit off; they very rarely discharge. Please prescribe." Answer. — "Drop in the eyes three times a day Eberhart's Eye Lotion No. 2." Dandruff and Hair Coming Out. — "Please prescribe for cocker spaniel, six months old, that has dry dandruff all over him, hot, dry nose and scratches continually. Have used mange cure a number of times and washed with dog soap, but these have done little good. The hair is coming out where the dandruff is worse." Answer. — "Take boraic acid one ounce, saliclyic acid one ounce, glycer- ine one pint; rub this well into the skin twice a day and wash every third day with Eberhart's Dog Soap; continue this treatment for thirty clays. Internally give five grains of the hyposulphite of soda and three grains of pepsin three times a day. In lieu of prescription given for external treat- ment better use Eberhart's Skin Cure, preceded by bath with his dog soap." Swelling on Legs Above the Hock and Discharge. — "My pointer, eight and one-half months old, that has distemper and with it came a large swell- ing right above the hock on both hind-legs, and one on the righ shoulder along the neck; all three of these opened with a discharge which has caused a soreness all over the neck and at the right ear; all of the hair is coming out, and there is still a little discharge. The two lumps on the hind-legs opened on November 15; the one on the shoulder opened- on No- vember 19. The fever is broken and the puppy eats well. The openings on the legs are closing up but are a little thick yet and are very white. The neck where the pus has been discharged upon it is very red, on thfl order of a scalded spot, and the hair is all off." Answer. — "Give three grains of the iodide of potash three times a day for two weeks, wash out the sores with equal parts of the peroxide of hydrogen and water for two or three days, then stop the washing; then put the dog on a thirty days' treatment of Sergeant's or Clayton's Condition Pills, one pill night and morning." Lameness in Stifle Joint. — "My pointer dog, eighteen months old, be- came lame in his right fore-leg about seven or eight months ago, and I am unable to ascertain where the lameness is. I can find nothing in the foot or any indication of soreness in the leg or shoulder; where he steps on that foot he places it out beyond a natural position, and walks with his leg projected. He is in good health; had the distemper when four months old. What is the ailment? Please prescribe." MISCELLANEOUS 211 Answer. — "The lameness is located in the stifle joint. Add one ounce of the tincture of arnica to a pint of witch hazel, and apply two or three times a day with gentle friction and hand rubbing, fifteen minutes at a time." Mumps or Parotitis.- — "I have a dog that has a swelling on each side of his head, below ears, that comes on suddenly. The dog is very droopy, and carries his head stiff, and does not eat very much. What can be done for him?" Answer. — "From the symptoms shown above your dog has parotitis or mumps, which is an affection of the parotid glands, and in this case both of the glands are affected. When the disease first makes its appearance warm applications to the swellings are indicated, in the form of warm water or poultices, and on account of the difficulty in keeping poultices on from the dog shaking head, etc., stimulating liniments might be used, such as soap liniment, which should be applied twice daily, or use yellow' oxide of mercury ointment, well rubbed into the skin over the enlargement. Should the swelling show no tendency to become smaller in a few days it would indicate the formation of an abscess in the gland, which should be carefully opened and treated with some antiseptic injection, as creolin 3 per cent in water. The appetite will return after- the swelling and acute stage of the disease has passed off." Dog Slobbering. — "I would like to ask the cause of a dog's slobbering. He has no appetite." Answer. — "Examine the mouth for foreign bodies and the teeth par- ticularly for decay. If either condition exists prompt attention is indicated. Wash out the mouth with the following solution: Permanganate of potasb one part; alum three parts, chlorate of potash five parts, water one hun- dred parts. Use freely four or five times a day." Rheumatic Condition. — "My pointer, three weeks old, and naturally fat, since she has had a litter of puppies, has been lame in one hind-leg, favoring it as she travels. The leg seems thinner than the opposite one and re- cently she travels on said leg and favors one of the front legs, running on three. I think it must be internal as she has not been hurt. I have tried liniment but to no avail." Answer. — "She is rheumatic. Give her a teaspoonful of Fellows' Syrup of Hypophosphites three times a day for six weeks, give five grains of salol twice a clay for two weeks, feed her anything she will eat, do not over- exercise or expose to cold or dampness, and hand rub the limb twenty min- utes at a time three times a day." Sore Feet in Hunting Dogs. — During hunting season, when dogs are run on rough hard ground, the feet may become sore, sometimes in the pads, sometimes between the toes, or both. A solution of sulphate of cop- per, one dram to an ounce of water, is good for the sores between the toes, and a strong solution of white oak bark is another remedy, especially for the sore pads. Sucking Eggs, To Break Dogs of. — Make a small hole in each end of an egg and blow out the contents. Then fill the shell with a mixture of strong mustard and red pepper, paste pieces of white paper over the holes and allow the dog to find and eat the egg. Very few experiences with such eggs will be needed to cure his propensity. Debility and Weakness After Distemper. — "Have cured my eight- months-old setter bitch of the distemper, but since she has been cured she can hardly stand. Her eyes, nose and mouth seem to be in good condition, yet she eats and drinks little. When sleeping she whines and shakes her- self unceasingly; her bowels act the same as if she had the diarrhea, and she has acted this way for six or eight weeks. The warts have disappeared. Please prescribe." Answer. — "Feed anything she will eat — beef broths, chopped lean beef, gelatin and eggs, etc. — and give her a Sergeant's, Clayton's or Eberhart's Condition Pill twice a day for probably a month." No Name for This Disease. — "My pointer dog is ten years old, hunts and covers the ground in good style, will take a six-rail fence with ease, will 212 | | \ | I ' MISCELLANEOUS hunt all day, and cry to proceed when I sit down to lunch or to rest; he does not suffer any pain afield, only he swells about the loins the next morning and is sore to the touch on the sides of the small of his back. He is continually trying to pass his Water when afield, but only a few drops of blood will pass, and in these attempts his back parts quiver a great deal. Please name the disease and prescribe a cure." Answer. — "Give a teaspoonful of sanmetto three times a day. There is no particular name for this trouble in dogs. Also give him for some time one of the Condition Pills mentioned above." Epilepsy. — "Prescribe for my three-year-old sixty-pound foxhound, that, at times, while on chase, will suddenly fall, his legs become stiff and he will whine as though in great pain and tremble all over. The attacks do not last long, however, and he is all right again, or seems to be. Nothing else (so far as I can see) appears to trouble him.. What is the matter?" Answer.— "A mild form of epilepsy. Give him a capsule three times a day containing pepsin three grains, gentian two grains, nux vomica one- half grain." Drying Up Bag on Bitch. — "I have a pointer bitch, two and a half years old, which has already had puppies. She came in season again about the middle of January and I had her bred; she has not had any puppies, but her teats came down a little and she has a little milk in them. Should I rub them with anything to dry them up? If so, please prescribe." Answer. — "Apply the following, with gentle friction, twice a flay: Lanolin one ounce, camphor twenty grains, belladonna twenty grains." Tendency to Rickets in Puppies. — "My English setter puppies, two months old, tremble when they stand up and suddenly will fall, then when they get up act as if sore on their fore-legs; at times they seem better. I feed them milk and soft food such as bread and gravy mixed. What is the matter? Please prescribe." Answer. — "A tendency to rickets. Feed raw, lean beef, chopped fine, raw eggs, gelatin, meat broths, stale bread, etc., and give each puppy one- half teaspoonful of cod liver oil emulsion four times a day." Running Sore on Leg. — "On the fleshy part of my pointer's hind-leg is a running sore, in size about two inches by one inch, and at the top of the sore is a light-colored fluid. Please prescribe." Answer. — "Inject equal parts of peroxide of hydrogen and water three times a day for three days; then discontinue and sponge the sore three times a day with a solution of sulphate of copper, one dram, water one ounce." Kennel Sores or Callous Growths. — Dogs are sometimes afflicted with kennel sores on hips and hocks, elbows, etc. They should be attended to at once. Boracic acid ointment should be applied. Callous growths on elbows and joints must be kept softened with vaseline or whale oil. Fungus Growths on Mouth or Tongue. — "My cocker spaniel has been troubled lately with canker in the mouth and on the tongue. This comes in spots, which enlarge until the several spots join together; it looks like a fungus growth, not a sore, but on the mushroom order. Please prescribe." Answer. — "Touch the spots once daily, for four days, with lunar caustic; care being taken not to allow any to run on his tongue, and only one to be treated at a time." Fever Mixture.— Every kennel man should keep a good fever mixture on his kennel shelf. A chill or cold is indicated by hot, dry nose, shivering and lassitude, dull eyes, with more or less discharge from nose and eyes. If attended to at once serious complications may often be avoided. Dogs going to and from shows are subjected to many extreme changes of temper- ature during express transportation, and a quinine pill will usually ward off any ill effects. If, however, the symptoms described develop, the following fever mixture should be given: Powdered nitre one dram, sweet spirits of nitre one-half ounce, Mindereruos' spirits one-half ounce, wine of antimony one dram, water four ounces. Terriers and dogs over 15 pounds up to" pointers and setters should be given a tablespoonful m a mtlf gruel every four hours. MISCELLANEOUS I ' 21 % Bone Swallowed.— If a dog has swallowed a small bone, a chicken splinter, for instance ,and shows signs of trouble, it is a good plan to give a bolus of mashed potato or soft crumb bread. This will generally aid the passage of the bone. *Age to Spay Bitches. — "At what age is it best to spay a bitch? Can a person perform the operation himself? If so, shall be thankful for the information on how to proceed?" Answer. — "The operation of spaying a bitch is usually undertaken at the age of four to six months. I do not advise such an interference with Nature, however. Upon maturity the spayed bitch or castrated dog becomes unduly fat and lazy, and lacks enthusiasm, ambition and sagacity. Most assuredly such an operation must be attended to by a competent veterinrian. Clipping Overgrown Toe Nails. — Toy dogs that have little or no exercise out of doors and do not get a chance to get their nails wore down by con- tact with the street are often troubled with this, and neglected cases where the nails curl around and grow into the flesh are very painful, fester, causing soreness and lameness. Cut off the ends of the nails with a pair of sharp nippers, that you can buy at any hardware store — but not too close. Do this same as you do your finger nails, but with your dog do it about every two weeks, avoiding cutting into the quick part, you can easily do this right. by being careful. Dogs Killing Chickens. — Should your dog acquire this very bad habit you can break him of it, which you should do at once, as he has no right to do this, and perhaps cause trouble with you and your neighbors. Catch him in the act, give him a good whipping and then take the chicken he has killed and fasten it securely around his neck so he can't scratch it off, and make him wear this chicken for a necklace for a week, or until the chicken has become so decayed that the odor will cause him such an intense dislike for fowl that anything else would smell more sweet. This is an infallible cure if you can fasten chicken on so securely that he can't get rid of it. Rheumatism. — Terrier dog, about four years, has gradually developed great weakness in the hind-quarters. He shakes when he is standing and can only just manage to get on to a low chair, dragging the back legs up behind him. His appetite is good and he is in good condition, and his bowels are all right. He can run quite well, but walks rather stiffly. He sleeps a good deal. Rather small, weight about 20 lbs. Answer. — In all probability this weakness is due to rheumatism, and I advise you to first give some medicine for this, say, a five grain tabloid of aspirin three times a day after food. This may be continued for four or five days or even a week, then afterwards give a nerve stimulant if the dog is still weak in the legs, as two drops of tincture of nux vomica in a dessertspoonful of water three times a day after food. Keep the bowels open, and avoid meat for a time. See Rheumatism). Sore Feet in Hunting Dogs. — Dogs that travel much on hard, dry roads, as Dalmatians often do, and sporting dogs hunting over rough ground, short stubble, or stumpy heather, are apt to get the spongy, elastic pads of the feet contused and worn thin. The treatment depends on the extent of the injury. If the case is severe, first apply a poultice of half bran and half boiled turnips. Sometimes the inflammation is great, and the feet become swol- len, hot, and painful, so that the dog cannot stand, and the general health suffers. Feverishness and loss of appetite reduce his strength, matter forms in the feet, or the soles slough off. In such cases linseed meal should be added to the other ingredients of the poultice, and a little olive oil poured over its surface. The dog should have a mild aperient, a dose of fever mixture three or four times a day, and be kept on a light diet. It may be necessary, for the more speedy relief of the dog, to let the matter out with the lanset, and in all respects these cases should be treated as ulcers. Dogs long confined should not be at once run much on hard roads or worked on rough ground, but their feet gradually hardened by daily increased exercise. 214 MISCELLANEOUS Hints on Docking.— This operation should be performed when the puppy is from 3 to 5 days old, if healthy and strong. Weaklings it is advisable not to dock before 10 days old. A pair of sharp scissors will be needed. Before severing the tail the skin should be well drawn back towards the body, so that after the tail is cut, the skin overlaps the severed bone. The bleeding as a rule stops very soon. In case it does not stop, some Frair's Balsam should be applied at once. The following lengths are advisable. Spaniels, Irish Terriers and Airedales have rather more than half the tail removed. Fox Terriers, about two-fifths. Griffons, about a third of the tail is left. Schipperkes are docked quite close to the rump, or a joint nearer the back, but it is advis- able that this operation should be done by a veterinarian. Alum Water, to Make. — One ounce pulverized alum to a quart of water. Lump on Neck. — Litter of bull pups 2 months old; one of them has a large lump,, about as big as a large walnut, under the under jaw. Answer. — The swelling is probably an enlarged gland; cut the hair off over the swelling to the extent of a quarter, and paint with tincture of iodine twice a week. Bones, Use and Abuse of. — If administered in an intelligent spirit, bones are not only much appreciated, but extremely beneficial to dogs. On the other hand, the wrong sort of bones are liable to cause them much trouble. A large bone, with not too much meat upon it, if given to a dog to gnaw, will keep him amused for hours, and it will also assist in keeping his teeth in order and benefit his digestion, as the gnawing will increase the secre- tion of saliva. A small, hard bone, such as that of a rabbit, or chicken, or lamb chop, may, if swallowed, cause severe inflammation of the intestines, or a sharp point of the bone may wound the dog's inside and so cost him his life. Of course, the danger of either of these occurrences is more or less remote, but it exists all- the same, and therefore the wise dog owner will run no risk. The feet of chicken bones are safe, so is the neck, and are a dainty bite for the dog. Anthritis (or inflammation of a joint). — The joint usually is swollen nad very painful and the victim is lame and unable to place the foot to the ground. During acute inflammation rest is necessary and applications of either cold or hot water will give relief, or the two may be alternated. The following lotion should be used: Laudanum two drams, Goulard's extract of lead one dram, water to make six ounces. Saturate a piece of lint large enough to go around the joint with' this lotion and cover with a piece •of silk and bandage in position. This dressing should be changed three times a day. Keep the bowels open. Calculi (Stones in the Kidney). — This is a very dangerous disorder and fortunately not of common occurrence. The principal symptom that will likely first attract the owner's attention is the passage of blood with the urine. In severe cases this will be accompanied with pus. The dog, at times, seems very ill and the temperature will run up to 103 or 104 and then subside. There is a rapid loss of condition and a general decline; pressure over the loins is very painful. It should be remembered, however, before diagnosing a case on this latter symptom alone that all dogs will flinch if the hand is passed over the back and loins even lightly. Death from calculi is the result of uremic poisoning. The treatment consists in careful dieting, keeping the bowels open, so that they will do as much of the kidney's work as possible, and the application of poultices or hot appli- cations to the loins to relieve the severe pain. The diet should consist largely of milk diluted with rain water, fresh boiled fish, tripe and well-cooked rice. As an aperient give bicarbonate of potash one dram, boro citrate of magnesia one ounce, hyposulphite of soda one ounce; mix and give from one-fourth of a teaspoonful to a teaspoonful three times a day, depending upon the size of the dog. The medicine can be mixed with water or milk. Refusing to Eat. — When a well dog refuses to eat, it is simply an evidence that the system is not in condition to receive food, and that Nature, the most reliable of healers, has decreed a fast. It should be allowed to MISCELLANEOUS 215 continue without drugging or attempting to stimulate or create an artificial appetite until such time as all is well again, and then the appetite will re- turn naturally. The greatest fallacy that can be practiced is to resort to drugs and tonics directly a dog is capricious about his food or eats less heartily than usual. It is all very well to tempt the sick dog daily with milk or a little raw, scraped beef and gelatine, but go no farther. It is a mistake to force food upon a stomach that has no desire for it and surely retards return to health. The dog has remarkable control over the muscles of the stomach. It can vomit at will or by eating a little grass. Emptying the stomach re- lieves the system of that which is inimical to it, preventing many attacks of sickness and greatly protecting the digestive organs. Vomiting with the dog, therefore, means but little, and is not a symptom of any par- ticular disease, unless repeated violently at short intervals, when poisoning is suggested. It is always well, however, to examine the character of the vomit. If mixed with blood or yellowish slime, gastritis or inflammation of the stomach is indicated. If mixed with bilious, yellowish matter, it is probable that the liver is out of order. Straining to Urinate. — Foxterrier, suffers at times from some affection of the bladder, trying to pass water with much straining. Appetite and coat good, and does not seem indisposed otherwise. Answer. — Give 5 grains of nitrate of potash occasionally; allow a lim- ited quantity of boiled water, with 10 drops of dilute hydrochloric acid once a day. Lump on Groin. — Black spaniel has a lump on the groins like a cherry. Can I have it cut off? Is it a cancer? Answer. — The growth is best removed by ligature. Tie a piece of strong silk tightly round, and renew once a week till it breaks away. Sulphur, Proper Use of. — Sulphur is a very excellent thing, probably the finest blood purifier that exists, but it is insoluble as sulphur, and such well meaning people as use it in that form might just as well soak a stone, a lump of coal, or, being millionaires and inclined that way, a diamond, for any good it will do the animal for which it is intended. If you want to give it you can take a leaf out of the nurse's book and go in for brimstone and treacle, or use the same in the form of a pill, or bolus, with other things, such as cream of tartar, or merely sprinkle flowers of sulphur in the water so that when drinking the dog laps some of it up. By all of these means the sulphur is received into the system and a portion absorbed, which is all that was wanted. Milk, Proper Use of. — Milk is very beneficial and nutricious in combi- nation with different forms of food, has also certain drawbacks. Given alone not only is it frequently an indubitable cause of worms, but, should the bitch's stomach be at all upset, will turn acid and provide the puppies with diarrhoea, indigestion and all sorts of enjoyable aids to the relief of monotony. Consequently, under any circumstances, it is well to previously boil it for some minutes, the addition of one-third lime water is to be advised. A much safer concoction is a fairly strong solution of Nestle's preparation which does not contain the ova of intestinal parasites, and may be trusted not to go sour even during a self-respecting thunderstorm. Ulcers on the Tongue — This painful condition when met with in the dog is usually the result of neglect, the teeth being allowed to accumulate tartar. The ulcers may be due to rough or decayed teeth as well as to a disordered stomach, the latter being a frequent cause. In the latter case aperients must be administered, and a plain diet be furnished, and in mod- erate quantities, when, as the condition of the stomach improves, the ulcers will disappear. If tartar is present, it must be removed by scaling, and the teeth afterwards gone over with an ordinary tooth-brush dipped into weak listerine. Any decayed teeth must be extracted. The ulcers themselevs should be slightly touched with nitrate of silver Milk for Weaning Puppies — I have some greyhound puppies I am wean- ing. I don't want to use cow's milk. Is there any way of making a mixture that will give a milk equal to the bitch's milk? Ans. — Yes. Add to 15 216 MISCELLANEOUS ounces of cow's milk 2 y 2 ounces of cream, 2 y 2 ounces of Plasmon, and 8 ounces of water. This will be better and fresher than giving condensed milk as you know what you are using. Boracic Solution, to Make. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of powdered boracic acid in half a pint of tepid water. Sore Rectum — Apply sparingly twice a day some compound hemlock and tannic acid ointment to the part. "Unguentine" salve will also heal up quickly. How Often to Use a Stud Dog. — Owners of stud dogs have often been more or less perplexed as to the quantity of bitches it is advisable to allow a dog to serve within a given period. To satisfy any doubt on that point, and for the guidance of owners, one bitch per week the year round, which would give two bitches per week during the breeding season, is ample for any dog. A dog in good health will take no harm with a harem of the dimen- sions indicated, but more visitors he has beyond that number and greater will be the strain upon his system. Too much stud work impairs the dog's procreative faculties, and has not only a tendency to produce weakness and decripitude in the dog's hindquarters, but a race of weakly offspring is like- ly to result. To Improve the Coat. — Rub all over dog, about once or twice a week, a mixture made with methylated spirits, one part; almond oil, seven parts. Giving Raw Eggs. — Raw eggs can be easily fed, as it is only necessary to break off the end of the shell, open the dog's mouth with the fingers of the left hand, and, withdrawing the tongue somewhat with one or two fingers of the right hand allow the contents of the egg to run down his throat. If he refuses to swallow, relaxing the tongue will usually have the desired effect. Breaking Dog of Sucking Eggs. — Make a small hole and put in enough syrup of ipecac to vomit a dog, then conceal the opening and put the egg where the dog will find it. After that the very sight of an egg will make him sick at the stomach. Lack of Milk. — To induce flow of milk, feed raw meat mixed with well cooked oatmeal — the real oatmeal, not the breakfast foods, but it must be well boiled. Give some milk between times. Paralysis Before in Heat. — Female Pom., 7 months, about 8 lbs., com- pletely lost the use of her hind legs, and her front legs seem weak, muscles of neck appear to be affected, as she has difficulty in picking up food, and has to be fed by hand; cannot move about at all, and frequently has twitch- ings in her legs. Answer. — It is paralysis which occasionally occurs in bitches before coming in heat for the first time. Give three times a day five grains of the homeopathic trituration of nux vomica. Keep the bowels well opened, and see that the bladder operates regularly. Do not use liniment. Capsules, Giving Medicine in. — Taken all round, there is no better method of giving medicine to dogs than in the form of flexible gelatine cap- sules. And it is a fact that a dog can swallow a capsule much more readily than a pill, so that even a large capsule will often slip down the more readily than quite a little pill or bolus. Capsules have many advantages; they are much cleaner, of course, than powders and liquids to begin with. Then they can be made to contain almost anything; and there are very few drugs that cannot now be concentrated, so that the chemist is able to pro- duce quite a tiny capsule containing quite a large dose of physic. A few things, like castor oil and olive oil, cannot be concentrated, of course; but all the more potent vegetable products and extracts like cascara sagrada, can be condensed into this small, convenient form. Then there is the fur- ther advantage of disintegration. A gelatin capsule will dissolve in the stomach far more quickly than a pill will dissolve; so you get quicker ac- tion and speedier result. In point of fact, the pearl coating so common nowadays on pills is frequently a great disadvantage. It is made of French chalk, and often forms almost a cement, the effect of which is to prevent the contents from disintegrating. ^ MISCELLANEOUS , 21? Clogging of Nazal Passage with Phlegm. — For this smear the nose once a day with a little pine tar oil, which the dog will lick off, and it will act like magic. Also get some onions, cut up small and tie around the dog's neck. If the cough is very troublesome, boil down some onions and brown sugar and give a teaspoonful every two hours. It is a wonderful salve for the sore throat that in most cases the dog will have in connection with the nazal discharge. Bitch Don't Get Properly in Heat. — Bull bitch, over 4 years. She does not come properly on heat; the parts are swollen for more than four weeks, and the discharge is never colored. Answer. — The next time the bitch shows signs of coming in season, give twice a day for a week, made into a pill with resin ointment, 2 grs. of permanganate of potash. Get 14 pills made up. Bloody Discharge From Ear. — Irish terrier continually shakes his head and bloody matter runs from the ear and his eyes are also affected, can you tell me what to do? Answer. — Syringe out the ears with a tablespoonful of alcohol in a gill of warm water; let the dog shake his ears and then wipe carefully. When dry fill the orifices with boracic acid powder. He should be better in two treatments. Wipe out the ears gently with absorbent cotton several times a day. Excessive Thirst. — I have a bull bitch that is out of shape. She drinks as much as a quart of water at a time. Is this due to kidney trouble? Answer. — Give twice a day an hour after feeding, three drops of tincture of cantharides in a tablespoonful of water. Continue for about a week. Hair Grower. — Tincture cantharides, solution of strong amonia, and oil rosemary, of each 1 dram; glycerine 2 drams; water to make four ounces. Mix, and dab on the ear twice a day. This was used with success on a Pomeranian that had no hair on its ears. Puppy Rash. — Which often develops after puppies leave the mother, can be dried up, and if puppy should lick it, all the better. Dissolve a teaspoonful of liver of surphur (Sulp. Potass), in a quart of warm water and apply once a day. Bites Dog May Get. — Punctured wounds, whether caused by the bite of a dog or some sharp instrument, if allowed to scab over at the top before healing has been completed at the bottom, usually form an abscess; there- fore, all wounds of this character should be induced to heal slowly from the bottom. Wash the injured parts with warm water to which carbolic acid has been added in the proportion of one part to sixty, or use a warm solution of boracic acid, then soak a pad of absorbent cotton in either one of these lotions and apply it to the wound, cover with a piece of oiled silk and bandage. This treatment should be continued until the wound is healed. If the skin is torn the parts should be cleansed with the carbolic solution and the edges of the wound brought together with stitches, then apply a pad of carbolic gauze over the parts and bandage in position. There is always danger of suppuration, and if it occurs remove two or three stitches, so as to give the parts drainage. The patient should be prevented from licking the wound. If an abscess forms, make an opening at the softest part and drain the contents, then pack the wound with sterilized gauze or oakum, which should be changed daily. This treatment keeps the wound open until it has healed from the bottom. Bald Spots. — These are common, and if the hair follicle is not destroy- ed it can be stimulated into activity, but if dead treatment is useless. If the baldness is caused by eczema rub the spots sparingly with a little green iodide of mercury, was the next day and apply lanolin ointment. The following lotion is also useful in stimulating the activity of the roots of the hair: Tincture of cantharides two drams, oil of rosemary two drams, glycerine four drams, water to make eight ounces. Ap^ly twice a day and use care to avoid getting into the eyes and ears. Dogs Too Fat. — An excessive amount of fat is as much a disease as •maciation. It involves the heart and lungs, which are weakened, Th« 2is Miscellaneous liver and kidneys and the stomach all share in the decline, and the repro- ductive functions decline. This condition, however, should not be con- founded with dropsy or ascites, and the latter can be differentiated by the fact that in dropsical disorders the flesh gives way under the fingers, while the flesh of a fat dog is comparatively firm. The appearance of the urine may change greatly without the subject's health being in any way affected. An excessive amount of urine indicates diabetes. Dard-colored urine, during acute attacks of disease, simply means that the water which is ordinarily passed has been disposed of by the body in some other way and the excretion is condensed. Straining indicates prostatic trouble, inflammation or a partial paralysis of the parts. Blood in the urine indicates an injury and is usually alarming. Indications of Various Troubles. — The appearance of the passages in either diarrhoea or constipation always gives some idea as to what is going on within the system. If the passages are clay colored, the secretion of bile is defective, or the bile passages are clogged. In any event, the liver is involved. If the passages are dark colored and of a greenish tinge, the liver is too active and too much bile is being poured into the bowels. Offensive smelling passages indicate liver trouble, intestinal irritation or digestive disorders. The presence of dark blood indicates irritation of the bowels. If the blood is bright red and there is much straining, a sharp bone is probably being passed. Tne constipation that usually accompanies fever is the result of a drying up of watery matter, which leaves the passage hard and chalky. The whine or cry that dogs may utter will indicate to those who are familiar with them something of their condition, for, as a rule, while dogs bark upon the slightest provocation, they do not cry except when in serious trouble. A sharp cry will, of course, always suggest injury. In cases of diseases of the head, when dogs feel that a convulsion is coming on, they often utter a short, high-pitched cry that has a crazy sound. In rabies, one of the most characteristic symptoms is a peculiar wail, a coarse blended howl, that once heard will never be forgotten. Pawing at the side of the head suggests ear troubles. Hearing, early in cases of brain trouble, is acute; later, after congestion becomes pro- nounced, it is defective. Lying on the belly, especially on a strip of cold concrete or wherever it is coolest, indicates a disordered liver. Standing with the legs braced or sitting up with the legs apart, so as to expand the chest, indicates pneumonia. The arched back indicates inflammation of the abdominal regions. The sore, painful gait, general soreness and pained expression indicate rheumatism, while a slow gait indicates debility or old age. Indigestion, due to many causes, can always be suspected in aged dogs that go off in flesh and refuse to fatten, no matter how much they may eat. It is also to be suspected where the breath is foul and bowels irregular. Tapeworm is a frequent cause of many obstinate forms of skin diseases that are recurrent and will not yield permanently to external treatment. Cold After Whelping. — Should the dam take cold after whelping it may affect the milk glands, causing swelling and inflammation. The very best remedy for this is sage ointment, made by taking a good handful of the leaves of common garden sage; either green or dry may be used. Simmer them in a small teacup of lard for two or three hours over a slow fire, then strain through muslin and set aside to cool. It should be applied hot and plentifully over the swelling, and be gently but well rubbed in three or four times daily, until improvement is manifest, always rubbing toward the teat, never in any other direction. If sage cannot be procured, the bark of the root of bittersweet (celastrus scandens) may be used instead, as it is also excellent for this purpose, al- though not quite so efficient as sage. Postules Betweefi Toes. — At first they are hard but soon come to a head and break, making the dog's feet very tender. These eruptions are quite common in English bulldogs, or, in fact, any dog that is crowded to make flesh and bone or over fed as all pets are so frequently. Wash the MISCELLANEOUS 219 parts carefully, paint between the toes with tincture of iodine, and lance the pustules, squeezing out all the matter. Dry and repeat the iodine whenever you see a new pustule starting. Graduated Scale of Medicines. — There are many medicines prescribed for dogs and as it is desirable that the close should be known, the following graduated scale may be taken: The dose for our largest dogs of eighteen months old and upwards may be taken as the same as for a man. Taking, then, the Mastiff or St. Bernard as requiring a dose we may call one part; middle-sized dogs may be given from half to three-quarters; Terriers of from 20 to 30 pounds, a quarter; and Toy dogs from a twelfth to an eighth part. In regard to age: The mature dog, one part; a year old, three-quar- ters; six to nine months, half; and a pup of from four to six weeks, one- eighth. The dose must further be graduated by considerations of the con- stitution and strength of the dog. Discharge in Bitch in Whelp and After. — Syringe passage out thorough- ly every day with a teaspoonful of powdered alum dissolved in half a pint of warm water, and give twice a day, made into a pill, two grains of sul- phate of iron, which continue for a week. The latter, the dose for medium sized dog, toy dogs less. Liniment, a Good. — It often happens that a good liniment is needed around' the kennel, and a formula that has been successfully used on both sides of the Atlantic might well be procured and kept on hand for the ar- rival of the unexpected. Such a liniment is the following: Take equal parts of the following and mix: Spirits of turpentine, laudanum, rape oil and liquid ammonia. The latter should not be the strong, but the ordinary va- riety. This is most useful in strains, sprains, stiffness, bruises and similar ac- cidents, but it should not be used where the flesh has been broken or cut. It is a very handy thing to have around, and the number of times that a bottle of it will be called into use will greatly surprise every one who has not employed a similar preparation. Bedding at Whelping Time. — There is nothing better for bedding, nor perhaps so good, as clean straw, and a great deal of this is not recommended at whelping time, simply because immediately before doing so, a bitch will push all this away from her and get down to the bare boards or whatever the flooring of her quarters is. It may be on account of the heat, for they suffer greatly even in cold weather in this respect, or it may be on account of cleanliness, or, again, a habit acquired in the wild state of making a shelter all round them, just in the same way that you will see even a Toy dog trample round two or three times before lying down, which is said to be derived from the original wild dog's method of making himself as com- fortable as circumstances will permit. Kennel Lameness. — This is a rheumatic affection of the fore-quarters, and particularly of the muscles connecting the shoulder-blade with the trunk. It is caused by exposure to wet and cold, and generally by the dog being kept in damp or draughty kennels. The symptoms are stiffness and sore- ness of one or both shoulders. This is most noticeable when the dog is running down hill, or when jumping, as, of course, then, practically, the whole of the weight of the body is on these parts. Left to himself, the dog shows an indisposition to move, and experiences pain if the hand is passed over his shoulders; indeed, even when an attempt is made to touch him, he shrinks from the hand with a snarl or anticipatory cry of pain. In long-standing cases, power of movement of the forequarters is almost lost; and many are incurable. The treatment most advisable is to give a warm bath, and after thor- oughly drying, rub the parts well with a liniment composed of equal parts spirit of turpentine, spirit of hartshorn, and laudanum. Growing Coat on a Collie. — Dress dog all over twice a week for a fortnight with cocoanut oil, kerosene and olive oil in equal parts, well mixed together. Do not over brush the dog. In case of a dog of any breed with bare spots, Eberhart's Skin Remedy will be found to be a great hair grower, (has never get failed for me), 220 i MISCELLANEOUS applied once or twice daily, on the bare spots, well rubbed in with the hand. To Increase Bone in Puppy. — Give puppy some large veal bones, or soft beef bones to gnaw on and twice a day a small dose Parish's Chemical Food after eating. The chemical food consists of phosphate of lime, also phosphate of iron. Severe Nervousness. — Dog may seem scared out of his life, run and hide if it hears a footfall, may only be induced to eat by putting its food under its very nose, &c. Dog may in time improve, especially by very kind treatment. A course of tonic medicine, like chemical food, would also materially assist, as this medicine contains phosphates. The food can be obtained at any good drug store. Dogs Eating Own Filth. — Some dogs have this disgusting habit, just why is hard to say. The only tangible reason would seem to be a depraved appetite, caused by worms, the cause of so many troubles in dogs. The cure is, to watch dog and when she has a passage cover the feces with powdered cayenne pepper, aside from scolding or punishing dog when caught in the act. After dog has had a good taste of the pepper it will be very liable to quit the habit. Milk Trouble. — Several cases have come under notice recently of milk trouble affecting bitches. The commonest cause of this is, of course, loss of puppies. We might go further and qualify the term loss by saying^that very often it is caused by the senseless removal of puppies, as, for instance, when a mongrel litter arrives, which it is desired to get rid of as soon as possible. To take all the puppies away from the mother not only con- stitutes gross cruelty, but sheer folly as well, for it is most likely that the bitch in that case will develop milk trouble in the shape of tumors or abscesses, and she will never be the same animal again after mischief of this kind has once been brought on. Supposing, however, that a milk abscess should form, the proper treatment to adopt is to use hot fomentations continuously. If the matter is taken in hand early enough, it will, of course, be possible to draw the milk away, and this will avoid the possibility of any abscess forming. Should, however, the latter unfortunately occur, it is certainly advisable that qualified advice should be taken and a veterinary surgeon should be asked to deal with it, lest it should ultimately involve recourse to an opera- tion. Hot fomentations or poultices, in any case, should be applied until the arrival of the veterinarian, as no possible harm can be done by this means. Canker of the Mouth. — There is trouble to which the term canker is applied, and that is with regard to the mouth and teeth. Dogs which are kept indoors and are pampered with dainty food of various kinds and do not get a sufficient amount of exercise are very liable to dyspepsia, which is almost invariably accompanied by an unhealthy state of the teeth and mouth. If these be not attended to, inflammation of the gums is set up, and at the same time the teeth are apt to decay, and altogether a very un- comfortable state of things is produced. Prevention is, of course, better than cure in all cases of this kind, and the way to prevent it is to stop giving dainty tit-bits and to feed the dog on plain, wholesome food, taking care also that the animal has an increased amount of exercise, together with a little corrective medicine, such as a compound rhubarb pill now and again, or an occasional mild dose of Epsom salt. It is also a good plan to use a mouth wash composed of myrrh and borax, a bottle of which can be obtained from any good pharmaceutical chemist. This needs to be diluted with water, and should be sponged on the inflamed gums. Needless to say, if the teeth show any signs of decay, they should at once be extracted by a competent veterinary surgeon, be- cause if one tooth goes wrong, it is quite likely to start decay in a number of the others. The lotion recommended above ought to be used twice or three times a day, and the alterative medicine should be given every two or three days, according to circumstances. Flatulency. — Is not very common in adult dogs, but oftener met with in puppies. It Is unmistakable evidence of indigestion. For immediate re- MISCELLANEOUS 221 lief the treatment should consist in giving to a twenty-p«und dog half a teaspoonful of carbonate of magnesia in a little milk; large dogs a teaspoon- ful; or give a dose of castor oil, and follow with 5 to 15 grammes of car- bonate of bismuth three times a day dry upon the tongue. For permanent cure, correct the indigestion. Ticks. — Ordinarily feed upon vegetable food, but they have no hesita- tion in attaching themselves to dogs and gorging themselves almost to bursting upon blood. They are, so far as family connections are concerned, related to spiders, and in form they somewhat resemble the latter. In size they vary from a pin head to a small flea. When small they are a light gray in color, but become darker as they gorge themselves with blood. They fasten themselves on the skin with such tenacity as to be torn in two before letting go. When once they get into a kennel no time should be lost in beginning treatment, as they lodge and breed in the bedding and woodwork as well as on the dog. The lime and sulphur lotion given under Lice, can be used for ticks, or Eberhart's Skin Remedy will do the work, if well rubbed in and allowed to remain on, and repeated. Teaching a Puppy to Lead. — Quite a job in some cases, and in others, not so hard. Best time to do this, is when they are six months old. Put a collar on pup, he won't mind uiis much, let him wear it a week, then some day, quarter of an hour before his supper tie him up to some convenient spot. He will promptly proceed to try to strangle himself, and this not found pleasant, will quit this, and then probably crouch to the ground, giving it up as a bad job, but looking very miserable; but brighten up when you bring him his supper. Save a few pieces of meat in your hand, untie him, take hold of the lead, hold out a piece of the meat and coax him to come to you. Repeat the lesson if neccessary, but as soon as he under- stands the lesson the finishing of the training will not take but a day or two. Wounds. — Dalziel's article on Wounds is given complete: "For the pur- pose of description these can be divided into Incised, Lacerated, Punctured and Contused. "Incised Wounds are those caused by a clean cut, such as a sharp-edged instrument. Lacerated wounds are those in which the tissues are torn and the edges of the wound irregular; punctured wounds those caused by stabs or probes; while contused wounds are those due to crushing and bruising. "The process of healing is accomplished in different ways, according to the nature of the wound and the condition of the surrounding parts. "1. First intention — that is, by immediate reunion of the parts. "2. Adhesive inflammation, in which there is an exudation of lymph in both cut surfaces. "3. Granulation, where the wound gradually heals by the formation of proud flesh. "4. The union of granulations. "5. The commoner and more usual method of healing, under a scab. "In incised wounds the parts should be cleansed, and the bleeding ar- rested, any hair should be removed, and the lips or edges of the wound brought into immediate contact by sutures. Where practicable, the whole should be covered with dry carbolized tow and a bandage. A muzzle must be worn, or the stitches will be torn out, causing an unsightly wound that must then heal by granulation, while instead of a very alight scar, a large one will be the result. In adhesive inflammation the mode of treatment is the same; it has, however, been proved beyond doubt that dry dressings are much preferable to any other. The old method of dressing with oils, etc., is no longer continued. The commonest method of healing is by granulation under a scab as already noted. "In wounds I have found the carbolized tow and carbolized gauze the most successful. The object of these is to prevent suppuration, if possible, by keeping the hair aseptic. Especially is this the case when one ig trying to heal a wound by first intention, or by adhesive inflammation. In other wounds it keeps them healthy. The wound must be constantly washed and kept thoroughly clean. If it is a serious ope, or there is much discharge, 222 MISCELLANEOUS it should be dressed twice a day. Where proud flesh appears, it should be kept under by the application of nitrate of silver; again if the wound is unhealthy-looking, and the healing process is retarded, a slight applica- tion of nitrate of silver will often stimulate it to healthier growth. "In all cases where the wounds heal by the process of granulation it is absolutely necessary that the repairing process should begin at the bot- tom, and so gradually close the wound. Should it occur at the surface, the pus will be imprisoned, burrow between the muscles, and find an exit or exits elsewhere in the shape of abscesses; or the pus will form sinuses, which will necessitate making large incisions. All wounds should be examined well for the purpose of detecting the presence of foreign matter, and again hemorrhage (bleeding) must be stopped before suturing. "In puncturd wounds, the wound should be explored by means of a silver probe, so that the exact extent of the injury can be ascertained, and foreign matter removed. If this latter is overlooked, the result is often blood-poisoning and death. Punctured wounds must always heal by granu- lation; where there is any suspicion of foreign matter, always have re- course to a poultice. "Contused wounds are generally successfully treated by poulticing and fomentations, but if the injury is severe, sloughing may take place. The final healing is by granulation. Always bear in mind to keep the wound clean. "To summarise the general treatment of wounds. First stop the bleeding, remove the hair and examine for the presence of foreign matter, and where this exists remove it. If there is any doubt about it, apply a hot poultice night and morning until satisfied that the wound is cleansed; where it is practicable, always insert sutures to keep the edges together. "As I have already said, dry dressings are the most successful, such as carbolized tow, and gauze (Listers' carbolized gauze) with a pledget of tow over it, kept in position by a bandage. In some situations this is not possible. The wound should be dressed night and morning with carbolic lotion: Carbolic acid 1 part, water 20 parts, with a little glycerine added. Or a saturated solution of boracic acid will do equally as well." FEEDING 223 FEEDING Feeding. — Here is an important subject which should be well understood. No dog over six months old should ever have over two meals' per day, and regularity in eating is just as important in dogs as it is in human beings. Dogs should have plain food, but don't be afraid of giving them some meat once a day, cooked, and cut up small, avoiding fat, and also not feeding veal or pork, neither of which are good for dogs, beef and mutton are both good — we eat meat every day, and why not our dogs. Never feed lights, not digestible, and you might as well feed leather. Cooked liver is always rel- ished by a clog, and once a week of cooked liver is a treat, it also acting as a laxative, but not much nourishment in liver and. a dog fed too much liver would not thrive, gain much flesh, or keep in good condition. Now as to milk — I don't go much on too much sweet milk, don't think it is good for a dog, and if given milk daily, would soon get very tired of it. Sour milk once in a while, is better. Buttermilk is better yet, and in summer time I give my dogs all around, some buttermilk as an "extra.' once a week. As to feeding, I am writing now as to the older, or matured dogs, and not as to the puppies, as to their feeding being advised upon elsewhere. I have on an average of seventy-five dogs in my kennel, and here is their bill of fare. For breakfast, winch is served about seven o'clock in summer and eight o'clock in winter, they get Spratt's Patent Dog Cakes for their breakfast, fed dry. but broken up into small pieces (excepting to young puppies that yet require soft food and to be fed oftener than twice a day). This I break up with a hammer on the board walk in their yards, or in wet weather, on the kennel floor, spreading it out so the dog's don't get to fighting. I let them all pitch in and cat, which they do with a relish, and why shouldn't they? It is a prepared food for dogs, composed of beef, flour, oatmeal, bone meal, etc., in fact articles that a'dog needs. When your pup- pies' teeth are developed sufficiently then they can have it, but broken up smaller. Spratt's Patent make a special prepared Puppy Cake, which is more suitable for the youngsters. See their page advertisement in front of book, or I can furnish you with it. Spratts now Kibble their dog cakes, run them through a machine, so they are about the size of a hickory nut, and this saves the trouble of break- ing it up — the dogs like it, although some of my larger dogs will take a whole cake and chew it up like a bone. As a rule, it is best to feed it dry, although occasionally it is a good plan to moisten it with either hot or cold water or with soup. Dry, it serves the purpose of a bone and good for cleaning teeth, sweetening breath and is digestible. I let my dogs eat about what they want for breakfast, but if any is left, don't let it lay, but pick it up and save for next morning, in action it is a perfect regulator, and its use will give a dog a good coat, a clean breath and sound, handsome teeth. Until supper time, about five o'clock, they get nothing, and this is as it should be. The F. H. Bennett Biscuit Co. (see their advertisement), make a very good dog cake, called Maltoid Milk — Bone, made in the shape of a bone, and I have used this also, and the dogs like it. Now as to supper, the main meal, as it should be for a dog, here is the bill of fare as fed for years in my kennel. I get meat sent out from my butcher in Cincinnati daily, beef, mutton, and some- times, a sheep or calves head or two and a big lot of fresh bones, and my man cooks this up in a big kettle, then cuts the meat up into small pieces and trims the bones down some, then in the soup we put Conner's Cooked Dog Food, which is a cereal, (see their advertisement), and makes a medium thick mush. Now when feeding time comes for supper, each dog is fed a 224 FEEDING pan of this mush in which is put some of the cut-up cooked meat, and this well mixed or stirred up in the mush, so the dog can't pick out just the meat. After supper, then the hones, every dog getting one or two to gnaw on — as their desert, and they all love a hone to chew up, which is good for all dogs. If any chicken bones, or small bones that they would be likely to split up and make slivers of, these are put in the stove, as they are dangerous. The soup is occasionally varied by adding to the cooking of the meat, vegetables, but which are hard to get here, and this adds a relish to it. You must use your judgment as to how much meat to give each dog, some dogs that are too fat, and too greedy, must not be given all they would eat. If a dog leaves any of his meal in his pan, don't let it remain there to get stale, but gather it up. -Quite a lot of the dogs, those I can depend on to not fight at meal time, are fed together in the main yard from traps or larger pans. Pans are all gathered up and washed that night so as to be sweet and clean for next day — cleanliness very important always. Now comes the "dessert" — the bones, which we throw out in the yards so that each one has a large bone to gnaw on — and don't they enjoy this. We watch them while they are at the bones, where "the push" are together, to guard against fights that might occur, as dogs, like some children, are sel- fish and greedy, and try to take the other dog's bone from him. Generally, a word from me will stop this trouble, but if not there is a whip handy and it is properly used to quell the disturbance promptly. Chicken bones, or any small bones like from a lamb chop, are very dangerous — bones that they can chew up into slivers; as you must know that all such must pass down and through all the intestines, which means a dangerous, risky trip, as it is not straight, but a very winding and crooked one, the great danger in this sliver, if it passes through the throat, is in puncturing or getting lodged in its trip through, which would mean death to the dog. Burn all your Chicken Bones excepting the necks. Vegetables and rice mixed in the mush you have made are very good for a change, and the bill of fare can be thus varied once a week or so, which will be appreciated by the dog. Carrots and beets are the beat to use, cabbage not agreeing with all dogs; potatoes are too fattening and possess very little nourishment. A baked sweet potato is relished by dogs, but the same objection applies here, besides leaving a sweet taste, and dogs should never have anything sweet. All dogs should have more or less hard feed two or three times a week at any rate, a bone or a biscuit, or something they can use their teeth upon and not bolt. A dog's teeth are just as Important to its continued well- being as those of a human being, and as we cannot provide our four footed friends with a false set, every care should be exercised in order to preserve the teeth. Of vegetables, onions, carrots, turnips, beet root, and a few potatoes are the most nutritious and fat forming. Cabbages and similar kinds are good for the blood, but contain few positive properties. Oatmeal is fatten- ing but heating; rice forms an ideal food for toys, being very easily digested, satisfying, but not too stimulative; pearl barley, sago, tapioca, and semolina may all be made use of as changes. If you do use milk, see it is fresh, and then boil it. Milk, in combination with other material, as for instance in the way of a rice or bread pudding, would be all right, or, used with eggs. Eggs are especially useful when nourishment has to be given with a spoon. Cooked liver is not a bad thing to mix in the food once in awhile, but not oftener than once a week. Cornmeal much or baked corn bread for a change in winter is all right, but much too heating to the blood in summer. Candy, cake, or anything sweet or too greasy should never be given a dog — you might just as well give them poison in small doses. Many a dog has died before its time due to this mistaken kindness of its master or mistress. When darling Fido so frightens his mistress with that low moan, succeeded by that painful and prolonged howl, with his back arched, his feet tucked in towards each other, and vainly trying every possible posture to escape the pain, he is merely suffering the natural result of that last lump of sugar. True, Fido may FEEDING \ 225 have had sugar frequently without suffering in this way, hut the last lump is the 'straw that breaks the camel's back; and no surprise need be felt if persistence in the kindly-meant but objectionable practices induces repeated attacks of colic, ending in inflammation and death. I have been called in many a time to see a sick dog that was in misery due solely to improper and over-feeding, but could do it no good, for it was so fat, asthmatical and wheezy that it could hardly walk or get its breath; no medical skill could avail and the pet had to die — not its fault, but its owner's. Take my advice and warning — don't feed your pet these poisons every time it begs you, perhaps by "sitting up" or "speaking," but treat it with true kindness by feeding as I have advised, and never oftener than twice a day. Always keep clean, fresh water handy, and in summer see that it is never exposed to the sun. Eggs are good for dogs, but I have found that in cases of a sick dog with a weak stomach very few of them can hold it down. Chicken gravy, or the gravy with a little flour in it, as the wife makes it in stewing chicken giblets, is often accepted by a sick dog after refusing everything else that has been offered it. A sick dog will sometimes eat a stewed beef kidney. If you feed potatoes, feed mashed potatoes, as these the dog can digest easier. If you have only one dog, get him used to eating dog cakes dry, for his breakfast, and for his supper, you may have enough left from your lunch and dinner for the one dog, and that bone from the porterhouse steak, or from the roast, will be appreciated by him. Quite a valuable article is the following, taken from American Fancier and Stock-keeper, as to feeding of Toy Dogs. In it are good ideas, especially applicable to dogs at bench shows, but good to adopt even for dogs at home. "The proper way to feed toy dogs is an everlasting subject of debate where two or three are gathered together in show corners. There is no proper way per se. The question of suitable feed all depends, both upon the breed and the individual. Sloppy food, for toys as well as in the inter- ests of bigger dogs, must be avoided, and food that is solid and somewhat concentrated is indicated. In the case of Pomeranians and other long coated dogs stronger food is more desirable than for smooths. That is, the drain of the coat on the dog's system must be met. Likewise the nervous energy of these small dogs must be taken into consideration. The Pomeranian, for instance, will wear himself to a shadow much sooner than the easy going pug or toy spaniel. In the former's case a diet varied, digestible and nutri- tious, much in a little, is the proper thing, and nothing is better than under- done (rare), roast beef and chicken, which to vary the diet may be alternated with fresh tripe and white fish, from which all bones must be taken out. Pet dogs, whose vigorous constitutions and active appetites call for a greater bulk of food, should be fed on boiled rice or crumbled stale bread in conjunction with the meat, the meat being fed last. It is not good to fill these little gluttons out with milk or as much meat as they will eat. Plain rice is not heating and does not fatten like meals. Should a toy dog take to the dog biscuit these may also be given chopped dry. "A great many toy dogs suffer more or less from cankered teeth brought on by fermentation in the stomach, in most cases due entirely to an indiscreet diet of sloppy, sweet foods. Eschew all these and bring the little chaps down to a dry, hard diet if possible, or a diet which will make them chew and not lap or bolt their foods. Nature provided the dog in its natural state with a stomach that would digest nails, as the saying goes, but civili- zation has altered all this for the pet dog, as well as his owner, and modern excesses work their ills on both. So the different conditions must be met." The following written by Dent, is especially intended to apply as to Feeding of Hunting Dogs: "The dog is a carniverous animal, and although domestication and association with man have, in some respects, altered or affected his organs of digestion, he thrives best upon a mixed diet or one containing both meat, grain and vegetables. The proportions of these depend altogether upon the individual's constitution, peculiar existing state of health, and the work he is called upon to do. These matters can only be determined by experiment 226 FEEDING and observation. Food and water are to the muscular system what fuel and steam are to the locomotive. Muscular exertion calls for a destruction of muscular elements; the destruction of muscular elements generates heat in varying degrees and a large amount of effete poisonous matter that the kid- neys and bowels are called upon to remove. "If the clog is in good condition, the muscles firm, elastic and properly nurtured by a fit diet, muscular effort will, if severe, produce only the minimum amount of heat and effete matter. If the animal is in poor condi- tion, the muscles soft and flabby, surrounded by fat, slight exercise will consume a large amount of this tissue and produce a corresponding amount of heat and waste products. And it is these poisonous waste products that the athlete, horse and dog have to contend with, and, no matter how carefully trained it is, these waste products eventually limit their performance. "A dog's wind may be all right, he is ready to go and wants to go, but if the production of these waste products is too rapid for their removal by the kidneys and other organs, they remain in the system and partially paralyze the nerves controlling the muscles and they refuse to act. "The fat or muscle-making possibilities of various foods and the ani- mal's actual condition can be studied very intelligently by the use, after ex- ercise or work, of a small clinical thermometer. When the maximum amount of work short of actual exhaustion produces the minimum degree of heat as registered by the thermometer, the animal is in the best condition and the foods that will afford these results are the foods to be adopted, and the foods that produce the largest amount of heat for a given amount of work are to be avoided, as a general working system. "It can be laid down that the quantity of meat can be reduced during the close season and increased during the working season to almost an all- meat diet with satisfactory results. Oatmeal and unbolted wheat flour are the most desirable of grains. Wheat dour, rye or barley shorts should be baked as bread pones and allowed to cool and afterward broken up and softened with meat liquor, soup or milk. Cornmeal is a popular food with trainers, probably on account of its price, ease of obtaining and preparing, but it is a fat producer and not a muscle builder. No horse trainer would feed it to a thoroughbred when conditioning him for a race, and while trainers may feel satisfied with the way their dogs thrive, I am sure they would be capable of greater muscular effort if fed on one of the other grains. "A very good way of preparing food for a siring of dogs is to purchase a few sheeps' heads, a couple of beeves' heads, or a liver or two, or twenty or thirty pounds of chucks or neck pieces chopped fine. Boil the heads in a kettle until they are thoroughly cooked, and the meat can easily be scraped from the bones. This meat should then be chopped or shredded into small pieces and mixed with from three to six times its weight of whole wheat flour, rye or corn meal, softened and worked up with soup liquor. To this may be added enough black molasses to slightly sweeten the whole and then it is to be thoroughly baked over a slow fire and afterward allowed to not only cool, but partially dry, in which condition it will keep indefi- nitely. When it is to be fed, break it up into pieces, and feed dry or soften it with meat or vegetable soup. This food can also be improved by adding vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, beets, onions or cabbage, in the propor- tion of one pound of vegetables to from five to ten pounds of meat and grain. "The sportsman owning only one or two dogs, who will condition his dogs on food prepared in this way, and who will carry with him a suffi- cient quantity to provide for his dogs while on a hunting trip, will be amply repaid by their superior condition, and he will never go back to the make- shift diet of table scraps that is too often resorted to. "Dog biscuits simplify the feeding problem and the professional trainer or. sportsman who uses them as a staple diet can go on an extended hunting trip or even to remote sections of the country, where there are no conven- iences for preparing food, and feel sure of his dog having a properly bal- anced ration. The ordinary dog biscuit contains only a small proportion of meat, hardly sufficient for a dog during the close season. When hunting FEEDING 227 or training it is advisable to have a special biscuit prepared with the pro- portion of meat doubled or trebled, or feed fresh meat in addition to the regular-biscuit. "The number of meals a dog should be given daily is a matter fre- quently discussed. I prefer to give a light meal in the morning (fed dry), such as two or three dog biscuits or their equivalent, and a full meal at night. The morning meal should be given at least one hour before the dog is put down in the field, so as to enable the stomach juices to partially digest it. Under no circumstances should a dog be worked directly after feeding a full meal. The stomach, like all muscles and organs, requires during action an increased blood supply. During exercise the blood is drawn from the stomach and other internal organs to other parts of the body and the food, instead of being digested, lies as a heavy load with a liability to fer- ment and produce diarrhea or dysentery that will incapacitate the animal. Table scraps and 'pick ups,' if clean and fresh, free from fat and grease (they seldom are), may be tolerated for house or pet dogs, but the sports- man who attempts to take his dog through a hard season's hunting on such food is blind to his own and his dog's interests." Feeding Puppies. — Now as to feeding of puppies. As soon as they are weaned, which should be done gradually, and which you will find under head of "Breeding," their food should consist of boiled or scalded milk (never feed raw milk to puppy) in which soak some bread. Potatoes and gravy, bread and gravy, and soups with plenty of vegetables in, such as carrots, turnips, beets and rice. Chicken gravy or the gravy from stewed giblets in which some flour has been added, is a very nourishing and fa- vorite food for puppies. If the scalded milk is found to be too constipating, add some oatmeal porridge to thicken it. When he is cutting his teeth, crumbs of toast, hard cracker or crusts of stale bread are needed. No one cares to eat the outside slice of a loaf, so that may be made stale, hard, and broken up for the liUle dog, well soaked in the soup or milk. Spratt's Patent makes a special puppy biscuit that is very good to feed to the young- sters as soon as their teeth will admit of chewing same, which biscuit should be broken up into small pieces. You can also feed this softened in soup. When the puppy is about up to three months old, 1 would then give this biscuit for one meal a day, fed dry but broken into small pieces. A very little cooked beef and mutton, cut up very fine can now be given mixed in with their other foods, and some of the mush of stale bread (see article on Feeding) will be all right to give them, in which you can mix thoroughly the finely cut up meat, but not too much meat until a little older. Puppies up to three months of age should be fed four times a day and then gradually cut down to three meals a day, which will generally be often enough to feed until they get to be from four to five months old. At six months old, or about there, I put them on the regular bill of fare with the grown dogs, excepting that their portion of cooked meat is not so liberally dealt out at supper, but the large bones they have free access to with the older dogs. I don't believe in keeping a puppy on a milk diet too long, and think it best to break them off from this when they get along to be three or four months old and let water be their drink. Burn all your chicken, turkey and fish bones or any small bones like those from a lamb chop. Small bones are dangerous. Dogs chew them up rapidly and being tender, make slivers of them, and if one of these small slivers gets into a dog's throat the wrong way or fails to pass through without any detention — it's generally a case of "good-bye dog." Many dogs have died from this alone. Avoid sharp bones, especially fish and chicken bones, as you would poison, for they frequently are more effective in killing a dog than is strychnine or some other deadly agent; in that poison can be neutralized by powerful antidotes or removed by the use of emetics, while a bone finds its way into the intestines and does its deadly work without hindrance. Confections, cake and dainties of all sorts should also be tabooed from the bill of fare; they are not the natural food of a dog, and beside their weakening effect create a false and dainty appetite which interferes with 228 i BREEDING the regular meals, causing a smaller quantity to be consumed owing to desire to get something nice or an artificial repugnance to substantial food' if there is a possibility that "sugar" will be forthcoming. BREEDING AND RAISING OF PUPPIES Bitches come in season on an average of twice a year, about every five to seven months, and the question is often asked whether it is advisable to bceed a bitch during the first period of oestrum. The answer depends much upon the breed and state of maturity. As a general thing, it is not well for a young bitch, which can not be fully developed at the age of ten months, to undergo the strain on vitality, which maternity causes. Some terriers mature quickly, but the large breeds should certainly not be bred until at least eighteen months old, and in any case it is wise to allow the first period to pass. Another question asked, is whether a bitch should be bred at every period, or rather, whether it is wise to do so. This depends a good deal upon the vigor of the bitch, but unless a bitch be looked upon as a mere machine to produce puppies for the benefit of the owner's pocket, it is well to allow the bitch to be served every other period. When a bitch is bred twice a year and has a litter each time, the strain upon her vitality must be very great, and unless the mother is more than ordinarily vigorous, later litters will show a corresponding weakness. A bitch first shows signs of coming in season by bleeding. Now, if you are watching for her and take note of the clay the bleeding begins, then one method to determine when she is ready to take the dog is to count from this day, and from the tenth to twelfth day she is ready for the dog. This rule does not always work, however, for I've had bitches that were ready and willing to be served even in the sixth day and yet others would not take the dog till the fifteenth day. Quite a good plan is to take her out for a walk on chain when you think she is about ripe, and let her meet the first d )£ she sees, or, if you have a dog on your place, allow her near this dog for a minute, and if she would accept this dog, then you can be certain that she Is ready to be bred and take her to the dog you have selected. If you try this plan, be careful or else she might fool you and get served by this dr? »he had met. Dogs are quick workers. After a visit to the dog, the mother will carry her progeny about 63 or 64 days, as a rule, but they sometimes whelp a few days sooner or later, and you need not be alarmed unless they go by from five days to a week, when very likely trouble is in store and assistance to be given, or better yet, call in a good veterinarian. I have had bitches whelp a week ahead of time; such cases are rare, however, and have raised the pups by extra attention given for a few days as to often putting the pups to the teats to nurse if thay did not get there themselves. We can no reckon the time exactly. Much depViVs upon the health and strength, and even mental idiosyncrasy. The best time for the visit is early spring, as the puppies have then all the long summer before them to romp and get strong in. At the time of mating, particularly, exercise should be well regulated, and must be insisted on. Whilst at this period exercise is essential, ex- haustive work would be detrimental. The amount of exercise should de- pend on the individual, a gross and lusty bitch needs plenty of freedom, while one the reverse would need less exercise, in proportion to her physical strength. For a couple weeks before bitch is due to whelp, she must have a daily walk up to within a day or so of the time due, but this must be gentle as she is very heavy. tp have a goed litter of puppies, a bitch must not onky possess blood BREEDING I " r » ^ i r - 229 free from all taint of disease, but she must be strong and in good condition about the time of oestrum, or heat. If you have in any way neglected her, or if, through circumstances over which you have probably had no control, she has fallen off a bit, begin to get her in form three months before the time of her coming on. It will pay you to do so. The following as to giving the bitch some medicine to open her bowels I found in Field and Fancy, but who written by I do not know: "Some there are who deem it wrong to give a mild cathartic Imme- diately before the time of whelping. A violent purge is certainly to be de- precated, but it is the firm opinion of the writer that the bitch is mater- ially helped and benefited by a little opening medicine. At any rate, that course is invariably followed by the most successful accouchers among women, and it must be obvious to the merest novice that when the system is greatly upset, or about to undergo a severe ordeal, the condition of the stomach and bowels is of the highest importance. A moderate dos«J of castor oil, say a dessertspoonful for a 30-lb. dog, or even some sweet olive oil, will do all that is required without inducing excessive straining. Such has been my custom for a good many years, and events have proved its value." My plan is to watch the passages of bitch just before she whelps, and if she is constipated, to then give her a mild dose of castor and olive oil. I believe when a bitch is just ready, that one service is sufficient, and rarely ever allow my own to be served but once, but to -make assurance doubly sure, a second service after an interval of twenty-four- hours, would be advisable. If you are sending her away to some kennel to be bred, ship her not later than the eighth day. It would be as well if you could go with your favorite instead of send- ing her, but most, if not all, good breeders are not only gentlemen, but lovers of dogs and will take the greatest care of the bitch. The length of time of a bitch being in season is from fifteen to twenty days as a rule, but there are exceptions to this. If a bitch is served late in season, the service generally prolongs the season or period in which she would willingly accept the dog. A very fat bitch should never be bred, as in so doing you are liable to lose not only the pups, but the bitch her- self. After the mating, the bitch should be kept secluded (no food or water having boen given her directly before), nor any food for six hours after. Now, for the next two months the bitch must require every attention. For safety's sake she should be kept away from her old canine friends for about a week. She must not, however, be denied exercise, and. all through- out the time she is carrying her puppies she must have plenty of exercise and fresh air. But it must not be of too boisterous a character; .and:. I would not permit a bitch in whelp to play with a dog of her own size, or a larger dog, too much. A collision between her and a heavy companion might be very serious indeed. If your bitch is a house pet and has been accustomed to jumping upon chairs, the safest plan to guard against accidents is to tip the chairs up against the wall for a week or two before she is due to whelp — if you are yet keeping her in the house. When very heavy, she can not always make the same jump, and should she miss, striking against chair and fall back, it would likely mean the death of her and the pups. For a few days after being bred, quietude and exercise on chain is ad- visable for safety, and should then follow exercise twice daily, in proportion to constitution, temperament and condition, and as she nears the time of whelping, the chain may be again necessary, as a restraint. From the time bitch is bred, the food need not be different from usual until five or six weeks gone, and showing heavy with pUps, when she will of course need more to eat. Feed her now more liberally with a fair pro- portion of beef and mutton. Raw beef cut up fine, is very gxrod in winter, a little once a day as she approaches the time of whelping. Bread and milk and especially soups will be very good for the other meals; soft foods and of an opening nature being desirable. A large beef or veal bone to gnaw 230 BREEDING . ' on is good. Plenty of milk is also what she needs. The nearer her time gets the more she will need to eat. Feed her three times a day during the last two weeks. On the feeding of the bitch during this time will depend the size and healthfulness of the coming litter, and when the pups are born, a warm pan of milk will be relished by the dam, in which may be put a little baking soda. Soft food should be continued for a few days, when a return to ordinary diet will be safe. Many times a female, after giving birth to her young, refuses to eat and loses her appetite. A few drops of assafcetida given in water and a little rubbed on her gums usually restores her appetite, and with a good appetite usually comes a good flow of milk. It is usually after a lapse of sixty-three days that the pups come, and some days before the event a suitable secluded place should be provided for her. It is important that a record should be kept of date she was bred. Have her stall or kennel prepared a week before she is due. If in winter this must be warm, but with light and ventilation. The latter must only be furnished from the top. I've found the best plan to be, to securely tack down an old carpet or blanket. on the floor which enables the puppies to get a foothold when first born, and thus crawl to their mother. The bitch will scratch and dig for several days before whelping and try her best to scratch up the carpet, so put in plenty of tacks. This carpet should be exchanged for a clean one, the next day after she whelps. A little of Clayton's or the Vermilax Co.'s flea powder sprinkled around in her box shoufcl be clone daily. A loose carpet in box is not advisable, as a puppy is liable to get under it and get smothered. Not all bitches are good mothers, some being too nervous, and through this nervousness and from fear that they may lose some of their children, or that you might take one away, they get excited, and lay on a pup or two. A very safe plan I've found, and I always so fit up the stall or box, is to fasten a shelf a few inches from the floor to the sides and back of box, extending out a few inches so that if she gets nervous and turns around too often to get a place to suit her, the pups are protected from being laid on by this shelf. It is generally best not to disturb the bitch at the time of whelping, but in case of fever or excitement, or, in fact, if anything indicating trouble be detected, it may be necessary for some one to remain with her, and for the pups to be taken away and kept warm until normal conditions return. Veterinarian skill may be necessary in some conditions, but as a warm place for the pups is all that is needed for a couple of hours after birth, it is easy to take the milk from the teats with the hand if the fever is likely to have rendered it injurious to the pups and the fever may be quickly remedied, and a non-injurious flow made in time for the pups to rejoin their mother. The very best advice I can give the breeder is, do not interfere; the few cases where it will be necessary to do so will only add force to this rule. When help is called for, find a verterinary surgeon who understands treat- ment of dogs, or one who makes dogs a specialty. Many veterinarians are all right as to horses and cows, but woefully ignorant as to dogs. If manual assistance has to be given, avoid unnecessary force. When labor is protract- ed and bitch seems to need assistance to create more labor pains, then give her Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate, two hours apart; the dose would be a half teaspoonful for a bitch of 15 to 25 lbs., and three-quarters of "a teaspoonful for a 25 to 40-lb. bitch, with a teaspoonful for larger ones up to 60 lbs., while for very large bitches such as a St. Bernard, a teaspoonful and a half would be the dose. Get one ounce of the Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate and have your druggist add to it four grains of quinine. I have found this very valuable, much better and safer than ergot (the liquid extract of rye), which is liable to work both ways, favorable and otherwise, expanding or contracting the womb. Such medicine is not always necessary, as in very many cases Nature takes care of the matter, and it is only needed and advised to be given when bitch requires assistance — the object being to create more labor pains if bitch needs the same. In several cases of bitches that required the Fellows' Syrup of Hypophosphate BREEDING 231 I also gave an injection per vagina of glycerine put into hot water and injected luke warm, but of course not hot. The cases of greatest danger are where a bitch has been allowed to stray during cestrum, and was bred to a dog of much larger size than her- self; and very finely bred and highly pampered bitches often suffer greatly, and die in the act of giving birth. In healthy parturition even, considerable time is often occupied, the rest between, being of great service in supporting her against the prostration consequent in the event. The bitch should not be interfered with in these intervals, and it is then foolish to try and force food upon her. In all cases where difficulty from wrong presentation or the disproportioned size of the pups occur, both from motives of prudence and humanity the veterinary surgeon should be consulted for his obstertic knowledge, and skill in manipultion will save much unnecessary suffering, and probably the lives of mother and pups. Sometimes there are one or two very late. You may go away, assur- ing yourself all is over, and that your bitch has a litter of only five, and come back in the morning to find seven all sucking away like as many leeches, and the mother looking so proud and pleased she wouldn't ex- change places with a princess royal. Should the clam's supply of milk prove to be inadequate, it will be necessary either to place her puppies under the care of a foster mother or else to do the best possible under the circumstances with artificial food. The former is always a risky alternative as it is not every bitch that will take kindly to the whelps of another, and unless she has been upon the premises for some time so as to be accustomed to the surroundings it is unlikely that she will do them justice. Then, too, if she has not whelped at very nearly the same time as the other, there is likely to be trouble over her milk supply. Consequently it is safest and best, though possibly a little more troublesome, to bring the puppies up by hand if their mother has not enough milk to provide them with nourishment. Fortunately, however, for the dog owner, Sprabt's Patent step in here to assist him in his dilemma, as, in the orphan Puppy Food prepared by this Company, a most excellent substitute for mothers' milk will he found; in fact, there is nothing procurable that can compare with it. In the case of many substitutes for the natural nourishing fluid of pups, it will be found that the stomachs of the youngsters are liable to be upset by some, while in other instances the puppies do not thrive, but in fact dwindle away. Wtten Spratt's Puppy Food is used in a kennel there is no prospect of either of these evils, if the food is prepared in the proper manner and ordinary attention is paid to matters of detail. In the first place infant puppies should be fed frequently, every care being at the same time taken to avoid their stomachs being overtaxed. Then, too, it must be remembered that even the best of cooked food is apt to turn sour and become unwhole- some' if allowed to stand too long, or if the vessels it is kept in are not perfectly clean. The stomachs of young puppies are so easily upset that too much care cannot be exercised in the preparation of their food. An indigestible diet is no doubt responsible for many untimely deaths among young stock. Provided that all goes well with the whelps, they will begin to crawl about soon after their eyes are open, which will be at the age of nine days. When the pups are a day old the mother should be encouraged to leave them for an hour's daily exercise; but this should never be of a violent character, likely to cause milk fever. When the pups ai«e six to seven weeks of age the weaning should com- mence, and it is a good plan to commence this by removal of the bitch for a few' hours at first, and afterward by keeping her apart the whole day, only permitting her to he with the family at night. The puns should then be fed on goat's or cow's milk, boiled, with one-third as much warm water added and bread crumbled and soak in it and given while still slightly warm. I prefer condensed milk to either, which is sure to be uniform and not as conducive to worms as cow's milk. This should be slightly reduced with warm water. After a few days, and when the pups have taken to this 232 BREEDING- \ diet a little meal may be used instead of bread; oatmeal, wheat middlings and cornmeal, mixed, is good; and in case of looseness of the bowels a little rice should be substituted. At this period it is also well to add a little lime water to the milk or give fish scraps, for this supplies phos- phorous necessary for bone forming. If fish is given be careful and sure that all bones are first removed. Pups thus fed rarely get rickets, or the giving way of the pasterns or lower leg joints, because the bone is not strong enough to carry the weight of the body. This should never occur in any well-regulated kennel where the pups are properly nourished, but if it does, two-thirds of lime water with the milk, a teaspoonful of cod liver oil twice daily, or more if the breed is a large one, will soon remedy it. After awhile soups and a little vegetable matter may be substituted. I give puppies when weaning them boiled milk in which some bread has been well mixed and soaked, gravy with bread mixed in it — chicken gravy they eat with a relish — and a little later on, add to the milk and bread, or gravy and bread, just a little cooked, and cut up fine, beef or mut- ton. Remember, however, that after a pup once gets a taste of meat tbat it is very liable to want meat and refuse anything else. See article on Feeding. In case of the mother dying a few days after birth of her puppies, always use condensed milk thinned with warm water and add lime water at the. rate of a teaspoonful for each puppy. Lime water is one of the best worm destroyers for young puppies. """" Should a mother dog lose her milk or not have enough at any time after a puppy has its eyes open, make a gruel of corn starch, putting a little sugar in it; teach the little fellows to eat it, which can be readily done by putting their noses in it and allowing them to lick their lips, and you will find them to soon learn to like it and thrive on it. Or, feed them with Spratt's Orphan Puppy Food, as mentioned previously. When I have a litter of puppies that are weak in bone, their legs not strong enough to sustain the body, I give the mother three times a day until pups are weaned, some precipitated phosphate of lime which creates bone. Dose for toy dogs, a pug for instance, would be an even teaspoonful. For dogs the size of a pointer, one and a half teaspoonful, and for large breeds like a St. Bernard or mastiff, two teaspoonfuls. Mix the lime up In a little milk and all bitches will readily drink it down, as it is of a pleasant taste. Better, however, do the mixing where they do not see you, for if they got the idea that it was medicine they might not take it. Many a dog will run and hide at the sight of a spoon, so great being their aversion to taking medicine. Other troubles sometimes arise at this time, which are often caused by worms, but still more frequently result from unsuitable food or foods of innocent nature that have undergone noxious changes, and still oftener by overloading the stomach, until indigestion sets in and then the food, Instead of supplying nutriment, becomes an irritant; pains arise, swelling of the organs occur, and unless quickly relieved the pups quickly succumb. These symptoms are usually attributed to worms, which frequently cause similar troubles. Another difficulty with like symptoms is a slight chill, sending the blood from the surface to the internal organs, producing congestion therein, and it is sometimes that serious disorders, not easily distinguished from any of these, are caused by worm remedies being given, without knowledge of their effects, or due preparation on the part of the patient. All these troubles may be classed as gastro-enteritis, and the same treatment applied. There should be an immediate cleaning out of the bowels with castor or sweet oil, and the use of opiates afterward generally give best results, either paregoric or laudanum, the former preferred, because of the camphor in it. The opiate should be given every hour, until the pain is relieved, and then nourishment in the form of warm milk should follow, with the appli- cation of artificial heat, or stimulation, in case of any tendency to chill. Raw milk should never be given to any puppies, always boil or scald BREEDING ~~' 1 ~ r <233 it. Under the heading of "Worms," you can now find proper treatment for puppies. The following article on "Parturition," and a valuable one indeed — ■ coming from the pen of Dr. A. J. Sewell, the celebrated English dog veter- inarian, was lately published in the American Stock-Keeper, and I herewith reproduce it: "So little practical knowledge on this subject is abroad in our kennels, judging from the large number of dams and puppies that have been annu- ally lost, that it is important when we come across such articles as Mr. A. J. Sewell's, the noted English dog 'Vet.,' on the above subject, that others than the readers of the English Kennel Gazette should be allowed an opportunity to read them. From such hints the intelligent Kennel man may prepare himself to meet emergencies which can not be foreseen, and which often happen when a 'vet's' services are not immediately available. The follow- ing will meet such cases: " 'It occasionally happens in cases of head pre- sentation that the hind legs are bent forward on the body, which renders the delivery difficult, and without the passage is large and the pains are very strong, the bitch cannot bring the pup without assistance. This is best rendered by grasping the puppy across the hips with a small pair of thin- bladed parturition forceps, and by gently pulling at the puppy during each throe. " 'It frequently occurs that though a puppy may lie in a normal position the mother is unable to give birth to it, in consequence of its being too large. The nose may be just inside the vagina, and there become fixed in spite of the bitch straining for hours. I have seen hundreds of such cases. It is a mistake to leave these cases too long, thinking they will come all right, as it is wasting time and the mother's strength; and if there are other puppies to some she probably will not have strength either to expel them herself, or help anyone who may try to assist her. "'In these instances the head is so firmly fixed in the mouth of the womb that it is impossible to take hold of it with forceps, however small or thin the blades may be, but the hook of the crochet may generally be passed into the mouth of the puppy, and by fixing it well into the pallet a good hold may be obtained, and the puppy drawn through the passage by main force. If care be taken it is astonishing what amount of force may be used in promoting delivery without at all injuring the bitch, but it is best not to pull on the puppy except during the labor pains, if there are any. " 'It is the custom of some veterinary surgeons to give the ditch during labor a hot bath if the parts are not considered sufficiently relaxed or if the pains are dull; at the proper time the tissues always do become prop- erly and sufficiently dilated, providing that parts are in a normal state — that is, bar a stricture in the vagina or something of that kind — and if there is any abnormal condition a warm bath, in my opinion, does more harm than good, by often checking the pains. " 'Sometimes when ergot fails to induce or stimulate the throe — (here is where I mucJi prefer to use the Fellows' Compound Syrup of Hypo- phosphate) — I irave applied with advantage to the abdomen an ice bag;- but what I fteid the best of all when one or two subcutaneous injections of ergo- tine have not worked satisfactorily, is to put the bitch in some vehicle and give her a drive, and if nothing else will induce the labor pains this will do so in most cases. " 'The worst cases are those which when the bitch is due to pup and the parts become relaxed, there are no labor pains to expel the fceta. Ex- amined per vaginum no puppy can be felt and no amount of excitement of the parts by passing a cold instrument into the passage or injection of ergot will cause contraction of the womb. If the patient seems all right it is best to wait some hours, during which time everything should be done to try and excite contraction of the parts. If the means taken do not succeed, then there is nothing to be done except the Csesarean operation, as it is not safe to attempt delivery with forceps or crochet when the pup- pies cannot be felt with the finger.' "Then follows a description of the Csesarean operation, which, of course, 334 BREEDING no one but an experienced veterinary surgeon should be allowed to perform; so it is not necessary to give it here. "Prolapsus or inversion of the womb or uterus into the vagina some- times, but very rarely, occurs during parturition, due to very severe strain- ing, or as the result of too much force being used to remove a puppy with forceps or by other artificial means. Care must be taken in these cases not to mistake protrusion of the uterus with prolapsus of the vagina, or a polypus. The latter may be recognized as a solid pear-shaped body with a narrow neck, whilst a prolapsed vagina is generally a large solid oval body which almost fills the vaginal canal if it does not protrude externally; it has a broad base and rises at the back part of the passage just behind the meatus or opening of the bladder. The uterus is soft, reducible, and rough and tubular in shape, besides showing dark-colored patches where the placentae have been attached. "After the womb has been cleansed by being sponged with a weak, tepid solution of Condy's Fluid or permanganate of potash, it should, if possible, be returned by gentle pressure on the fundus of the uterus with a piece of whalebone with the point covered with sponge; the returning is assisted if the hind legs are raised in part by the bitch being held upside down. Care must be taken not to use undue force or the uterus may be ruptured. After the return it is a good plan to inject a quantity of cold water into the vagina to act as an astringent. "When the protruding uterus shows signs of having been injured or is much congested, or decomposition has set in, amputation is advisable. This is best done by drawing the part gently out and applying a strong lig- ature as high up as possible and cutting off the free portion." In the June number of the Kennel Gazette (Eng.) Mr. Sewell takes up the care of the mother and puppies, and, judging from the serious losses which occur in almost every kennel from carelessness, or worse, kennel managers cannot read the following too carefully, and even the veterans may gain a wrinkle or two: "When the bitch has finished pupping she should be made comfortable by renewing her bedding and given some warm milk. As to the bedding, there is nothing better than straw, laid straight across the box and changed daily. I do not like mats or cloths even for small dogs in these cases, for they become so quickly foul. When the bitch has had a large litter or has had a bad time, it is a good plan to give the yolk of an egg, beaten up with milk and a little brandy; or, if the bitch is inclined to vomit, some beef tea or Bovine — a small quantity every hour. This may even be occasionally given before the bitch has finished having all her puppies, if she appears very exhausted. A few hours later in ordinary cases, when all is going well, some thin oatmeal gruel, which is the best food for the next two or three days, may be given. When the bitch seems disinclined to take suf- ficient milk gruel, sheep's head' broth, thickened with fine oatmeal, may be ordered, and even bread and milk or gravy. After the third day, more .solid food may be given, as crushed biscuit or boiled rice, with sheep's head broth and .the meat from the bones added; also a little fish, and if the bitiJh is not feeding well, milk may be given to drink instead of water. As time goes on, especially when there is a large litter, more nourishment is required, and the food must be increased by degrees so that the bitch is kept in fairly good condition, though of course not made fat, or the secretion of milk may be checked and the puppies will suffer. Some bitches are so zealous in their care of the puppies, more espe- cially at first, that their health suffers in consequence. In such cases the dam must be made to go out to relieve herself, particularly the bladder. I have seen very severe cases of illness caused by the mother not leaving her puppies, and in two instances death was the result of the bladder becom- ing over-distended and not being emptied. The condition of the bowels also sometimes requires attention, but, as a rule, when the bitch has been allowed to follow her natural desires and she has eaten the foetal mem- branes, the bowels are often relaxed in the course of a day or two, and so long as it is not severe, no notice may be taken of it, but when there is ^t BREEDING 235 much purging it is a good plan to give a small dose of castor oil to carry it off and if after this has worked off, very loose motions continue and are frequently passed, some carbonate of bismuth, from five to fifteen grains shaken dry on the tongue, may be given three or four times a day. In these cases the milk, or broth, should be thickened with arrowroot in- stead of oatmeal so long as the bowels continue troublesome. After pupping, a bitch naturally has a great deal of discharge from the womb, which continues, as a rule, for about a fortnight, sometimes a good deal longer. I find it a good plan when the last puppy is born to syringe the uterus out with a tepid solution of permanganate of potash. When the discharge is very copious and offensive, it is a good plan to repeat the syringing every day for the first week; and the coat surrounding the passage, when the bitch does not keep herself clean, should be washed oc- casionally with warm water and carbolic soap and afterwards carefully dried. — *««« When the discharge from the passage continues after three weeks, astringent injections are necessary, as a teaspoonful of powdered burnt alum dissolved in a pint of tepid water and repeated morning and evening. Occasionally, after the usual discharge has ceased, a bitch will have a blood-like discharge, the same as is seen in bitches when in oestrum, and this may continue for weeks. It is due to a relaxed condition of the parts, and when very profuse the bitch becomes much emaciated and weakened. The alum injection should be given and from two to five drops of witch hazel bark, administered three times a day in a little water. When this does not stop the discharge, ergotine, from cne-half to two grains, made into a pill, may be given twice a day. The mammary or milk glands often require attention, more especially if all, or nearly ail, the puppies die. Then the milk, which often accumu- lates in quantities, becomes, as it were, caseated, the glands are swollen, inflamed and very tender and abscesses may form. The same thing some- times occurs when the bitch has a large litter, in one or more glands, the puppies seeming to take a dislike to the milk in these parts; or perhaps the parts are tender and the bitch refuses to let the puppies suck there. Many bitches who have never been in pup, or even served by a dog, often have a large accumulation of milk about nine weeks after being in heat, and unless the parts are carefully watched to see the glands do not become swollen and hard, a good deal of trouble may follow, and subsequently gradular tumors form, necessitating an operation. When the glands become swollen and inflamed, hot water fomentations should be applied three or four times a day, and after each fomentation the glands, especially the hard lumps, should be rubbed with warm cam- phorated oil, and the milk drawn off. Castor oil should be given also every three or four days. When the bitch affected is rearing uppies, it is necessary to wash the camphorated oil off with warm water and soap before she is allowed to return to the little ones. . While some bitches have too much milk, others have none at all; the latter conditions may only continue for a day or two, but sometimes it i& permanent, and though the mother may be anxious to nurse the pup- pies, she is unable to do so. In such cases treatment is of little use; a diet of oatmeal gruel and boiled fish may be tried, and is occasionally successful. In other instances when this has failed, I have found a stim- ulating diet of lean raw meat of some use. Bitches of a nervous disposition, especially those of the smaller breeds of dogs, are occasionally subject to convulsions when nursing puppies. It is generally put down to weeakness, but I do not think this is the cause, for I have seen these attacks occur when the mother has been in good condition and when only rearing two or three puppies. The complaint is called parturient eclampsia, and though the symptoms are very distressing, it is very seldom that death occurs as a result. The only signs are restlessness and excitement, the bitch keeps leaving her puppies and walks about panting. Presently she falls over on her side, the whole body being convulsed, looking very much like an animal which 236 BREEDING has been poisoned with strychnine. The legs are stretched- out and rigid, the tail is often curled tightly over the back and the head is drawn back. The mouth is generally kept wide open, the dog panting violently, but there is no loss of consciousness. With respect to treatment, it is seldom medicine can be given by the mouth in these cases, but when it is possible, a large dose of bromide of potassium — say one scruple for a bitch the size of a fox terrier, in a table- spoonful of water, should be given. Great care must be used in giving the liquid, or the patient will be choked. The bromide may be repeated in an hour. When it is impossible to give the medicine by the mouth, an enema, containing hydrated chloral should be used. The dose for a dog the size of a fox terrier, in an urgent case like this, should be half a dram dissolved in about four tablespoonfuls of warm water and given when tepid. Smaller dogs — say spaniels and Yorkshire terriers — may have a scru- ple of chloral dissolved, of course in less water. When the attack has passed off, to prevent a recurence it is advisable to give a course of bromide — say from three to five grains for dogs the size of toy spaniels and fox terriers in a little water three or four times a day, and feed on. a light diet, as bread and milk, or the latter thickened with Genger's food. If the convulsions do return the puppies ought to be weaned and means taken to disperse the milk. Trouble sometimes occurs in doing this even when the puppies have been gradually weaned, and such is particu- larly the case when bitches have milk without having puppies. Aperient medicines should always be given, castor oil being the best. A full dose should be administered about every four days. The glands should be rub- bed twice a day with camphorated spirits, or the balsam of Peru ointment. What suits one dog does not always suit another, therefore when the milk does not seem to be dispersing as quickly as it should, other external rem- edies may be tried, as rubbing the glands with whisky or brandy, or even eau-de-cologne, and I have often had good success by dabbing the glands frequently with the following simple lotion applied cold : Recipe. — Methylated spirits (wood alcohol) one ounce; cold water eight ounces. The milk, unless it is secreted in very large quantitiesV-'and is caus- ing pain, or is becoming hard, should not be drawn off, as to do so only stimulates the secretion. Sometimes these cases are extreme-ly obstinate and will last five or six weeks, or even longer. In such Iiista'ricies, iodide of soda is useful in closes from half to two grains, according to the size of the bitch, given in a little water, and repeated twice daily; • The diet in these cases should be light and of a stimulating character, as bread and milk, dry biscuits, milk pudding, etc." One never knows when some untoward circumstance will arise in parturition. Pups come the wrong way, are too large,, or something or other happens that nonplusses even the best of us sometimes. A bitch should be made to come out to empty, herself, if only for a few moments on the first day, or if she whelps at night, then on the next day, as many bitches through strong maternal instinct, love for their pup- pies, and through fear that some harm may befall her children, will often "hold in" and damage result from no relief to the kidneys or stomach. The following is copied from the American Field, and-is valuable on this subject: "Bitches at such times often become a little distressed, when their labor is at hand, and will crawl or creep into any hole or corner in order to seek relief, and will sometimes whelp in the most unsuitable places — ■ on a cold floor, for instance. The bench should be protected on all sides, so that the puppies are not subject to the danger of being thrown "over- board," and the bench should not be too large, for fear of the puppies getting pushed away from their dam and getting cold, before they are properly dry. Dry, clean wheat straw makes the best bedding. "The latter contingency is one that frequently happens. While the earlier puppies are yet moist they are pushed away from their dam in her efforts to give birth to succeeding puppies, cold strikes into their KEEP YOUR DOG IN HEALTH by the use of the Common Sense Remedies The C. S. R. REMEDIES have been used by many of the leading kennels for the past twenty-five years, and are free from all poisonous ingredients, such as arsenic, strychnine, areca nut, santonine, or any- thing injurious to the stomach. The list includes: C. S. R. Skin Remedy, Complete Treatment $1.00 C. S. R. Distemper Preventative, Capsules 50c C. S. R. Worm Remedy, Liquid or Capsules 50c C. S. R. Good Health Capsules, Regulator 50c C. S. R. Mange Ointment for all Skin Eruptions 50c C. S. R. Tonic Pill and Blood Purifier 50c C. S. R. Distemper Remedy, Powders or Capsules 50c C. S. R. Sanitary Dog Brush 50c C. S. R. Sanitary Soap (3 Cakes) 50 C (15c. per cake. 20c. by mail.) VETOL TABLETS $1.50 A specific for bringing around the dam and strengthening the stud dog. Used with wonderful success by our leading kennels. All sent prepaid on receipt of price. The entire list put up in large boxes at special rates for kennels and dealers. MANUFACTURED BY THE Common Sense Remedp Co* 14-16 CHURCH STREET NEW YORK CITY 238 BREEDING tender little system, they gradually lose the vigor which Nature has given them to aid them in securing the dam's teats, and drawing from them their natural sustenance, they whine, and gradually pine away and die, to the consternation and dismay of an anxious and expectant owner. "Some breeders, in order to avert the possibility of what we have just described, take away the puppies as they are born into a kitchen, saddle room or other place, in which there is a fire to dry them, putting them back when the bitch has either finished whelping, or at intervals of rest from her labor. "A bitch, shortly before she is due to whelp and afterward, should be kept upon sloppy food rather, such as porridge and milk, bread and milk, hound meal soaked in sheep's head broth, etc. While whelping she should simply be given some warm milk. The bitch should be allowed out Tor a short run of a few minutes on the second day, the duration of which may be increased each day. "The secret of success in rearing puppies is fresh air, pure water, free and unrestrained exercise, good food, given often and a little at a time, access to grass, and a dry, warm bed at night. The fewer puppies are kept in kennels the better, and the more the foregoing table of hygiene can be observed the better will puppies come on." Especially should the puppy quarters be kept sweet and clean, for a dozen flies will take more out of suckling puppies than a night's rest will put back. Here is where a cool cellar or other darkened building will be found almost imperative when the mercury is trying to do a century. The brooding quarters should be kept cool and in semi-gloom, and more than ordinary attention should be paid to cleanliness of the bedding so as not to attract flies. Next to worms there is nothing more irritating and calculated to retard a puppy's well doing than flies. DOG PAPERS YOU NEED There are several published devoted to dogs. (I take them all), and even if you only own one dog, it will be of great benefit to you to read these dog journals: "Field and Fancy," (weekly), you can't well do without. "American Fancier," edited by Harry W. Lacy, comes out fifty-two times a year, and as a fearless writer is not surpassed by any one. "Dogdom," a handsomely gotten up monthly magazine, profusely il- lustrated, is the best dollar investment a dog owner can make. Then there is "The Dog Fancier," another monthly, published for many years by Eugene Glass, Battle Creek, Mich., full of dog news, and costs only a dollar. "The American Field, (weekly), the oldest dog paper of all, their specialty is hunting dogs, and if you are interested in sporting dogs, you can't afford to not get this paper. A new monthly, "Dog "World," handsomely gotten up and very read- able, costs only a dollar a year. "Hounds and Hunting," devoted to Beagles and Hounds, is just the paper for anyone interested in these breeds, to read. All these papers have advertisements in the book, but if you prefer you can remit the subscription price to me, and I will see that you get the paper. USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 239 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS Buying Dogs. — In buying a dog, first be sure that you are dealing with some recognized breeder who will not send a dog C. O. D., and you will al- ways get a dog just as represented. No legitimate breeder or dealer can afford to act any way but fair and square with you, as it would get him into serious trouble with the American Kennel Club, and for wrong doing he would be punished and disqualified, which means that he could not exhibit any of his dogs at any Bench Show held under their rules, nor could he register any of his dogs in their stud book while disqualified. So you can see how safe you are in buying a dog and sending your money on in advance, if you are sure first that you are dealing with a breeder of note and reputation, as you are protected by the American Kennel Club of New York. Very few legitimate breeders will ship a dog C. O. D. for many good and sufficient reasons. It is harder on the dog, as coming collect, he ne- cessarily has to go through a lot of red tape business, and this delays his delivery in most every instance, going from train to uptown city office, a delay here of course to check up and fix way bills, books, etc., and gen- erally then delivered after all this delay by another wagon. Select a good breeder to buy from and write him for a full description in detail as to all points of the dog and its price, then send him a money order or draft for the dog with orders to ship on the guarantee that the dog is to be exactly as described and represented. Now, when you get him after he feels at home, recovered from his trip, and acts and looks himself — then compare dog with description you have had, and my word for it your dog will fill the bill. If dissatisfied for any cause don't be hasty about returning him, but wait a day or two, give the dog a chance to rest up, taking good care of him meanwhile, and then write to the dealer, and he can, and will, no doubt, straighten the matter up so that you are satisfied. Unless the buyer is a judge of the breed ordered (which the seller is), it might happen that as good or even a better specimen had been sent than was promised, and yet not come up to the expectations of the buyer according to his erroneous ideas, or, it didn't "look like Mr. So-and-So's dog," etc., and here is the chance for the seller to explain and put you right, as to what constitutes a good and correct specimen, which is really what you want, only you don't know it. These are rare cases, of course, the exception and not the rule. Bench shows are educating people on dogs, and a good many could now fairly judge the dog they had ordered. Always go to headquarters to buy anything, and here I want to say a few words as to buying a dog from bird stores. They are, as a rule, a poor place to buy a dog — a much better place to buy a bird or bird seed! Being only dealers and only having a scant general idea of dogs, the dealer may be honest enough, yet deceive his customer as to a dog, simply because the seller fooled him when he bought the dog to sell again. This is often the case in a bird store buying a litter of puppies. They look cute as puppies, but often turn out to be curs when grown up, because the mother of them had a mishap, got out, and was bred to some outside dog of another breed, so the owner packs them up in a basket and sells them for almost any price to the bird store. He puts them in his window at a price lower than the genuine article could be sold for; people see them they look cute — you buy one, thinking you got a great bargain. You raise this puppy and, of course, become attached to it, but gradually it develops 24<| USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. into a common cur, and you are competed to apollogize for your pet when your friends visit you. "Silk is never sold for the price of calico. All fine bred animals cost more because they are harder to raise. Always be willing to pay a fair priee for a good one. Buy of legitimate breeders and you'll get the worth of your money. Receiving Dogs. — If you buy a dog that comae to you by express and has had a long trip, having left his home to come to a new one and among strangers, and he at first should act scared, shy or sulky, and, of course, then not look his best, don't conclude that the dog is not as he was repre- sented by the seller, and that you have been fooled, but speak to him kindly pet him, and it won't be long till he will see that be has found a friend mi his new master, and while, no doubt, he may think of the home and friends he has left, and very often silently grieve for them, yet he will Quickly learn to love the new master, and show by his actions how happy he is in his new home. When thus at his ease and recovered from the strain and excitement of the trip, he will act and look himself aeain and now is the time to judge him and see if he is not as repre- sented, which he will prove to be, I think, especially if he was purchased from a reliable breeder. When you take the dog out of his crate, unless he has a collar on and vou at first hold him by this or his chain, the best plan is to take him out of the box in a yard or room, for he might be badly frightened under the circumstances and get away from you. Also see the first thing that his collar is tight enough, so no danger of his slipping it over his head if scared and getting away perhaps. Very many dogs I receive for shows have a collar on so loose that, if from fright or any undue cause, they could easily slip it off and escape. Don't have it so tHght that it chokes, but just so you can run your finger around under it is right— and safe. While for many years I have been a orofessional handler of dogs at bench shows, having at some shows as manv as seventy dogs of all breeds to receive and care for during the week, and the greater part of them being strange to me, this being our first in- troduction I never had any trouble, and not a dog in the many I have thus handled for others but was just as good a friend of mine, and quickly, too as were my own favorites that I had brought from my kennels. . ' After receiving a dog, gife him a chance in the yard to attend to nature's calls, which he will very likely want to do, and you watch, to kpp the condition of his bowels. He may be either constipated or vice versa, Either due to having "held in" for too long a trip in his box. Very many matured dogs will not "empty" in a box on a trip, and herein lies the greatest danger of long trips by express when they do not empty in box, the verv natural result being either inflammation of the bowels or kidneys -—either or both. If dog is bound up, the feces being voided with a hard pffort and it is dry and very hard, give the dog a dose of castor and olive oil mixed If bowels are too loose, passage running from dog too freely and very thin attend to this, as treated under its heading, but such cases eenerally yield to proper feeding for a day or so with foods to fit the case. A nuppy will often stand a long trip (if fed and watered en route) better than an adult dog, because the pups will attend to nature's calls en route, which is all the better even if it arrives soiled from so doing — almost cer- tain to be so, confined in a box. Receiving Puppies. — Many people who buy puppies do not give them nrooer care on their arrival in the new home. In order to insure success with a puppy take it carefully from the crate in which it is received, mak- ine as little noise as possible in so doing. Speak to it in a pleasant and svmnathetic way, calling it by its name, if it has any, which fact should alwavs be ascertained before receipt of the puppy from the seller, if possi- hle After removal from the crate, be careful that the puppy does not eet frightened and run off and hide. In order to avoid this, let the vounester out into a space of moderate size at first. Bear In mind that the journey, however short, has had the tendency to frighten and make nervous any young dog. . can * c. S. R. Blue Book Specialties BREEDERS CALENDAR AND DATE BOOK Price 50 cents. STANDARDS OF THE BREEDS Illustrated with champion dogs of each Dreed \ Gives the authentic standard of the breeds \ recognized by the American Kennel Club. i Price $1.00 CLUB AND KENNEL DIRECTORY The principal happenings of the Year in Dog- dom. — Field Trial Winners and Their Owners. — The Judges, Secretaries, Superintendents, Veterinarians of the A. K. C. Shows for the f Year. Directory of the Leading Kennels of America. i Price $1.00 POPULAR HAND BOOKS OF THE DAY Common Sense Treatise on Distemper, includ- ing Special Articles of Interest to Pekingese Spaniel Fanciers. Price 25 cents. BOSTON TERRIER STANDARD SIMPLIFIED Revised and brought down to date- — covering the new standard adopted by the Club. Hand- somely illustrated. Price 5o cents COLLIE STANDARD SIMPLIFIED Including special article on the leading strains of Collies, and history of the Collie Clubs of America, (profusely illustrated). AIREDALE STANDARD SIMPLIFIED A wonderful book on this wonderful dog. An- alizes the standard and tells just how to pick out a good dog. The principal strains of Aire- dales and why you should breed to them. (Pro- fusely illustrated). THE GREAT DANE STANDARD A careful analization of this big breed and telling the good and bad points and how to select your stock for breeding. (Profusely illustrated). Send for Circulars. Common Sense Remedp Co. P, O. BOX 1028 NEW YORK CITY Price 50 cents Price 50 cents Price 50 cents 242 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. After allowing the puppy some freedom and an outing in an enclos- ure, for sufficient length of time for it to attend to nature's calls, give it a bowl of boiled milk and bread broken up, or a soft-boiled egg or two. Feed light for a few days, at morning, noon and night. If kept out of draughts and petted, the puppy should soon get fully accustomed to his new home, and the sooner it is made to feel at home by kindness and attention the better it will thrive and grow, and the less will it feel the shock of the change to its new quarters. Remember that while it may, and probably did, start clean, it may reach you soiled, due to getting in its own filth in box, so this must be con- sidered, and you remember that a bath, if only a sponging off, if in win- ter, and on their very thorough drying, will soon very much improve its appearance. Before you buy a pup, or even an adult dog, find out from its seller if it has been thoroughly and successfully treated for worms, and if not, attend to this promptly — (See Worms). Very few breeders, however, nowadays, but do treat all their puppies for worms before sell- ing or shipping — which they should do. The dog you receive may bowl or cry the first night in his new home, don't be surprised if it does (you might do the same under the same circumstances), but put up with this — the dog is worth all the trouble or interruption it might cause you — and kindness will soon cure it of this. Females as Pets. — In selecting a dog for a pet, the erroneous idea seems to prevail to a great extent of always getting a male. Here is where you often make a mistake, for if you have only one dog, a female is pref- erable in many respects. In the first place, a female is more affectionate, or shows it more than a male, is cleaner about the house, more obedient, and less liable to run away. The objection to a female seems to be that she will come in season; so she will, but this only happens once in every five to seven months, and then till again in season you have no trouble. A male dog is always "in season," and should there be a female that is in season, even a mile away, he will find it out, and, unless chained up, or gates of your yard watched very closely, your dog is gone, and then you find out what he discovered long before you did. Perhaps he'll find his way home again, but the chances are much against it, and you'll now have the chance to offer a reward for the return of your dog. Perhaps you'll get him back, and perhaps you won't. If, when your female comes in season, you don't care to have her around, you send her to some kennel to board for a couple of weeks (as many do with me), and thus save yourself, for a trifling cost all this annoyance. There must be females or there wouldn't be any dogs at all. When a female first shows signs, if you will make note of the first day, you'll discover a bleeding, which will continue for from eight to ten days, a swelling of the vagina with it. This bleeding and swelling will begin to subside at from ten to twelve days, and then is when she is ready for breeding. You can't watch her too closely, for they are very cute and cunning, at such times, and will often fool you by slipping out, and then when ready, the first dog they meet is the favored one. Such mistakes as this, due to carelessness, is what produces so many curs that we see on the streets of every town or city. While I love any dog, yet I love best a thoroughbred. The cur may be as smart and as true and faithful as the pure bred one, but there should be no curs, and would not be if people were more careful at such times. In case your female should get out, and served by some dog on the streets, and you desire to get rid of the puppies, do so as soon as they are born. Drowning is then the best way to do it. Take one pup at a time and hold it in a pail of water till dead, or, you can put the whole litter in a pail of water, putting a weight or stone on top of a cover that will hold it down to the water. To guard against danger of a caked breast in the mother, it may be advisable to allow one pup to live and nurse for a week; harder on the pup to be then drowned, however. Another instant death is a teaspoonful of Scheele's Prussic Acid for matured dogs. In giving it hold mouth open and upwards, pouring the li- puid well back on the tongue. Great care is necessary in handling such a USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 243 potent drug, as it would be dangerous to human life if spilled over a cut or wound. Shipping Dogs by Express. — This is a very important matter, and the greatest precautions must be taken and care exercised unless you are so heartless as to not care how much cruelty and hardship the dog endures, especially on a trip of over twelve hours unless properly crated, watered and fed, and a day and night trip is just so much harder. If it is a grown dog, an adult, food for twenty-four hours they can do without, and no harm, but in case of a young puppy, it must have food at least twice a day even if only for a day or night trip. This you can arrange for by sending food in a bag tied onto the box and a large, prominent request on box, "Please Feed Morning and Night — Food in Bag." If an adult dog, and trip is a day and night only, then drop a big bone or two in box for it to gnaw on, or a few dog cakes. Fasten tin pan or cup inside in one corner, up a few inches from floor for water and a big request on box, "Please Water Often," especially if in hot weather. Now, as to longer trips than twenty-four hours, extra attention must be given. My plan is as follows: I first go to my ex- press agent, have him look up best time to start dog for best trip and as to connections. Then if trip is to be two days or longer, I get him to write on ahead at least twenty-four hours to the agents at any stations where dog has a "lay over" of an hour or longer, asking this agent to there take out the dog on chain to attend to nature's calls, also to feed and water. I find no difficulty in getting such favors shown by asking my agent, and you can no doubt do the same from your agent, whom you pro- bably know or he knows you. To have dog taken out you must have a door so they can do as requested. By arranging this way, your dog is reasonably assured of some comfort added to his long and hard trip. The greatest danger of these long trips are from inflammation of the kidneys or bowels, due to not emptying, and this almost always the result if a dog "holds in" for over twenty-four hours, which is even too long for safety. Now as to the box, which must be made right. If dog is to go in fall or winter, or any season subject to quick changes, unless you have a good, reg- ular dog crate. Several now made for dogs. (See LeGalle Bros', adv. in this book), then make your box the height of the dog at his shoulder, as long as his body and head and just wide enough so he can turn around by bending his body, and he will be comfortable, as a box too large is just as bad. Make it open on the sides and top for air, but have the lower half of each side and end tightly closed so that the dog when lying down is not exposed to draught, as they are often kept outside in a depot open at ends, on a truck, and thus right in a draught, and having come from a warm car, the natural result would be a cold or perhaps pneumonia. I always have request sent on ahead, on a winter trip, to "please keep inside where warm at any lay overs," and this you can have done also. Give him plenty of straw in his box if in winter. Make box on top like the roof of a house so that there is no danger of his being smothered as he could be perhaps if box was square, by express messenger putting him in a corner and another box or trunk on the top and sides of his box, thus depriving him of air. Make box so there is no danger of this hap- pening. Fasten by nailing inside box, in one corner, a tin cup or pan, about right distance up, then spend a nickel for aother tin cup and fasten this one on the outside of his box by a string or wire, so that there is no ex- cuse for the express messenger not doing what all shippers pay express companies double rates for doing — caring for dogs en route. Express cars seldom have any water in them (the messenger himself when thirsty going back to the next coach for his drink), and this tin cup tied on outside and a written request tacked on box, "Please water often," leaves it easy for him to bring the dog a drink, the facilities being handy. Did you ever notice how often in traveling in hot weather you will visit the water cooler? Never Start a Dog on a Full Stomach; the motion of the car would very likely make him sick and cause him to throw up what he had eaten, soiling his box and himself as well. The night you are to ship dog give him a fair meal that afternoon, $44 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. and an hour before he is to leave take him out for a walk of a half dozen blocks or more, and he will be sure to attend to nature's calls. If you start dog on a morning train, get up early enough that morning to attend to this before he leaves. Then offer him a drink before he starts and thus he leaves with an empty stomach and will have a much more comfortable trip than if he started after having had a full meal. Many house-broken dogs will "hold in" and will not do anything in their traveling box, which will cause inflammation of the bowels or kidneys. Better for the dog if it did break the rule for this time. Puppies of course are not so systematic and generally get through better if suitably crated. Now make a prominent sign like this and tack it on top of box: AN "OPEN LETTER" FROM A DOG. Mr. Messenger — My name is I am on a hard, long trip, and can only get through with your assistance and kind care, for which I will thank you in my way. I will not bite you! Confinement in this box is bad enough — but I do need a drink and a bite to eat. Some express messengers are, I am sorry to say, afraid of dogs, but by furnishing them the name of dog, when they speak to him he — the dog ■ — will think he has found a friend, probably wag his tail and give an as- surance by his looks to the messenger that he is all right, and thus secure better care and some kind words from the messenger and add to the dog's comfort on the trip, Always crate a dog, never ship him on chain for several good reasons. Crating is safer, cleaner, and more comfortable for the dog. On chain he takes too many chances. He may slip his collar and jump out of the car door, or in a crowded car a trunk or box might fall on and injure him, and besides, the express company's charge for any dog on chain is not less than a hundred pounds, even if it was only a twenty-pound dog. Always notify by previous mail or by wire the party who is to get the dog, so that he may know when to look for him and meet the dog at depot, thus shortening his trip a bit and avoiding the delay caused by the dog being taken first to city express office, laying there awhile and then drove around to the house he is directed to. Don't ship a 3x1 dog in a 3x1 crate. You like to stretch yourself sometimes. Neither should you ship it in a box far too large. A dog in such a box will often receive a nasty knock in being handled none too gently by the messenger; if you do, besides, you or the other fellow will have to pay useless express charges. Dogs Chained Up. — I do not believe in chaining dogs up in a yard, but if you want him chained at night don't make it too short — and he must have freedom during the day. To keep a dog chained constantly day and night is cruel and inhuman, and will make any dog cross. Dogs are not born cross — you never saw a cross puppy — and when you see a cross dog some human being — man, woman or some good-for-nothing boy — is to blame for it, not the dog. There would be no cross dogs if people were not the cause of it by their ill treatment of the dog any more than there would be a balky horse only for men — fools and brutes — who make balky horses. If you must chain the dog up during the day, then give him his lib- erty at night. It is not necessary to chain him up if you have a yard with a fence high enough and gate securely fastened. Many a bad boy will delight to tease your dog simply because he sees he is chained up — for the boy would be afraid to if the dog was loose — and this teasing makes a cross dog. I don't blame the dog, but I do the boy. If you have no yard fenced in and a large dog and must keep it on chain part of the time, allow at least 20 feet of chain. Fancy the misery of a man full of life and energy trying to take exercise by pulling and ■training against a chain three or four feet long. Yet this is the length STERLING COLLIE KENNELS (REGISTERED) STERLING IN NAME AND QUALITY <3 UJ H I (A (5 ill INTERNATIONAL CHAMPION PARBOLD PICAROON EDWIN L. PICKHARDT, Prop. 210 UNIVERSITY HALL, MADISON, WISCONSIN. 246 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. which some otherwise humane people seem to think a just allowance for the yard dog. The chain should be fastened to a stake about 18 feet from the kennel. Should there be no enclosure for your dog to romp in and must therefore be tied up to prevent loafing, straying, or getting coaxed away and stolen, then proceed thus in securing and still enable him to move about tolerably freely: Get a strong wire, ten to forty feet long, slip a ring on it, fasten wire at each end to stout stake, drive the stakes at full stretch of wire into ground to below the surface. Hook the dog's chain to ring running freely on the wire, and your dog can run up and down this course at will. By attaching such a wire to the side of a long wall or house, a runway can be provided in similar manner. The kennel can be placed a few feet beyond the end of long wire so that the dog can get to and into it without needing to be changed. Yards for Dogs. — If you have a dog you should also have a yard fenced in. No one living in a city should keep a dog unless they have the yard, except in a case of a small toy dog, that you keep in the house or a flat, and in such cases you must take your dog out for a walk night and morn- ing. No dogs, even the smallest toy, can live right and be healthy if they live indoors and on carpets all their life. They must get their feet on mother earth and a chance at grass. I pity any dog that' has to live in a parlor or a bedroom all his life — for he is in prison, perhaps an elegant prison, but yet it is a prison and the dog is leading an unnatural life and a limited one. A friend of mine who is worth many thousands of dollars to my cents lives in an elegant mansion in Cincinniti, surrounded by large grounds and handsome lawns, but to be fashionable and his place to look to correspond with his fashionable neighbors, he has no fence around it. He owned a very fine St. Bernard and a few days ago the electric car in front of his house killed his dog. Now, if he had had a fence his dog would be living. Your neighbor may have a fine lawn — and no fence — and your dog has no right to trespass on his grounds and destroy his flowers. This neighbor may be one of those unfortunate persons who have something lacking in their general make-up, and does not love dogs (and for this he is to be pitied), and your dog coming into his yard and committing a nuisance or damaging his flowers causes him to some night "drop a but- ton" where your dog gets it and then your dog dies. If you had had a fence and kept your dog where he belonged, your to-be-pitied neighbor (because he does not love dogs) would not have done so and your dog would still be living. If you have a fine lawn in front and must keep up the style of the neighborhood, then at least do the next best thing, viz., fence off a good-sized yard in rear of your house for the dog. This is better and safer than no yard at all and will do all right if large enough, but then take the dog out for a walk once a day at least, which will add to his health and happiness. Dogs have rights, and many of them, but your dog has no right to become a nuisance to your neighbor, and he won't if properly kept and cared for on your own premises. The fence should be so high that there is no danger of the dog jumping it, and your gates should be made self-closing, as your servants or a caller may leave the gate open, and in this way your dog will live and stay where he belongs and has a right to, and can't trespass or get 'himself or his owner into trouble. I am sorry to say that there are some people in this enlightened age who do not like dogs. I pity all such, and should you contemplate moving into another neighborhood, before you close the deal for the house first find out if your neighbors on both sides love dogs — if not, don't rent this house, but find one where you will have better neighbors who do love dogs, for these you can trust and the others you could not. If you are living beside people who do not love dogs — watch them closely. The only safe plan in such a case is to get up and take a look all over your yard carefully each morning before you let your dog out, for you might find a piece of "fixed" meat or a piece of sponge that had been dipped in grease which, if tae dog picked up and swallowed, would cause a very USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 247 painful death. Also, be very careful yourself and never throw a cork that would cause his death as well. Always have a collar on your dog, locked, and tight enough so it can't be slipped over his head, and on it something reading like this: ROVER, Owned by Jno. Smith, 220 Main St., Cincinnati. So that if he does stray away the chances are more in his favor of being re- turned to you, for he may fall into the hands of a man who loves dogs, and therefore an honest man, who would return him to you. Yard Kennels. — If you have a large dog and prefer him to sleep in your yard, provide a suitable and comfortable dog house for him, a shelter and proper protection in wet and cold weather, properly ventilated at the top, so that he does not sleep in a draught. The size you can determine easy enough. Have feet on it so that it stands several inches off the ground, and make the floor double with tar paper between floors. Small wheels on it in place of feet are best, as this will enable you to move it to different locations, so if it is damp weather you can place it in a part of the yard that will be dry. Watch out for dampness, wUich causes rheumatism. Cellars or basements, unless you are certain they are not damp, are a dangerous place for a dog to sleep. As to bedding — in hot weather the bare floor is the one the dog will prefer as most comfortable. Pine shavings are a good bedding for medium weather in spring and fall, as no fleas can live in them. In winter straw is the best, and don't be stingy with it; give him plenty, so he can make a hole and cuddle up in it and keep warm. This should be changed at least three times a week. Dogs Barking or Howling. — Your dog has, however, no right to bark or howl at night and annoy your neighbors — unless he is barking at some intruder and notifying you of danger. If he gets into the habit of barking at night he must be broken of this, which can be done, and in a night or two. Slip quickly and quietly to his kennel, catch him in the act, have your whip handy, and give him a whipping for barking — scold him and tell him he must keep quiet. He'll soon understand what you mean. A dog has certain inalienable rights, among which are those of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness, subject, however, as the rights of hu- man beings are, to the exercise of liberty without derogation to the com- fort of others. Dogs in Your House. — If you have only one or two dogs, your own house is none too good or suitable a place for them to sleep at night, and their access to the house during the day is all right, for a thoroughly well behaved dog is a most desirable companion to have around for company, and especially at night, for any dog is liable to prove of great value or assistance in case of burglars or unwelcome visitors. This applies to the large breeds as well as toy dogs, for they would all be watchful and give the alarm to prevent harm befalling their master and mistress. All dogs are faithful to some one. How often do we read or hear of lives having been saved by the house dog. If you have a toy dog that sleeps in the house, provide it a box or basket so that in cold weather you can cover it up at night. Putting it to sleep on a chair or soft does well enough in summer, but suppose you do this in winter, and you cover it up with a shawl and it goes to sleep — say in a warm room, this is all right, so far. Now suppose the fire goes out towards morning, your pet turns over and "kicks the cover off," the room gets cold, and the result is that your dog catches cold, which, if not attended to promptly, is liable to be a sick dog. Provide a box or basket so that you can cover it over the top, allowing for air, and he will be safer and more comfortable. Aside from this, he is more liable to be clean in his habits, and will wait till he is let out into the yard in the morning. Very few dogs will commit a nuisance in their sleeping box. And again — suppose he is unlucky enough to get fleas on him, and this often happens to a dog by having met a dog that did have them, you will 248 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. find It much easier to rid him of them than if he had been sleeping on a sola or loose in the house, for you could take his bedding out and clean or burn it. To get rid of fleas is given under that heading. - House-Breaking Puppies. — When you buy a puppy and get it home, don't expect it to be house-broken, and you'll not be disappointed. It's too young to know just what it ought to do, and you must give it time, a chance, and properly educate it yourself. Thi3 can be done with every puppy, or grown dog either, but you can't do it in a few hours, for it requires time and patience. You may have bought it as "house-broke," and it may be that it was — for the home it has just left — but needs re-breaking to a certain extent for its new home, which will then not be nearly so hard to accomplish. Now, when your puppy makes a mistake, if it is old enough to punish, eateh it in the act; rub his nose in it, switch it, and run it out in the yard, weather permitting (for you wouldn't, of course, put it out in the rain or snow). Repeat this every time it does wrong, and it can soon be taught to be clean in its habits. Never punish any puppy (or dog) ex- cept at the time of the wrong-doing, so that it knows wnat it is being punished for. By running it out of doors every time, it soon gets to un- derstand that there is the place to attend to nature's calls. Have pa- tience, and it won't be very long till you have a well behaved dog. Some are much easier to break than others. I don't advocate too much or severe whipping, as in some cases it will cow the dog, and if so will take a long time to get it over this. Most pupies at two months old will under- stand that they have done wrong by the punishment. As it gets older make it a point to put it out the last thing at night and the first thing in the morning, and give it frequent yard opporunities during the day. Use judgment and forbearance as well, and reason with and talk to it — they soon get to understand. If weather is bad, at night or in the morning, for that time put it in the cellar or some covered outhouse or shed. If you have a female and raise a litter of puppies at home, here is a good plan that I follow in the kennel, and when I sell a puppy two or three months old, it is already "kennel broken," and then very easy to house-break when its owner gets it home. I have stalls made, enclosed by a gate and in front of the box or part of the stall fitted up for the bitch to whelp in, I have a galvanized iron pan to fit the other part of the stall, and this pan I cover over the bottom with sawdust for the puppies to go into as soon as they are old enough. The mother cleans up alter her puppies till they are four or five weeks old, and then they will naturally and very quickly get into the habit of going into the sawdust when nature prompts them. The example set by the first one to go in will soon be followed by its brothers and sisters, as it is a dog's natural inclination to hunt a place. You can follow this plan when your bitch has puppies by simply making a low wooden box with a sheet of tin for a bottom to it, which will answer for one litter all right enough, and if your bitch has whelped in a box in your house, you can fix up a little fence made out of lathes that will cost but a trifle, and answer the purpose of keeping her and her puppies penned up. Puppies that I sell as "kennel broke" are very easy to house-break. Treat all your puppies for worms soon after they are weaned, as then the worms begin to be dangerous. In some cases as young as five and six weeks is necessary. Worms kill more dogs than all other diseases combined; but this you will find carefully treated and remedies given under the heading of "Worms" in another part of this book. To house-break older dogs, follow the same plan, only a little more severe. Shade in Kennel Yards. — Fortunate are the dogs in a kennel during torrid weather, if well provided with shade trees. Nothing would appear to please a dog, especially a terrier, so much on a hot day, as to burrow into the cool earth. If this can be allowed without damage to property by all means let the dogs make their own cool earth nests. If appropriate shade is not af- forded naturally it is well to build a lean-to or a square, flat, shed-like structure, as low to the ground as the height of the dogs will allow. They shquld be able to stand up under it. This will throw a shady spot at all DOG DOM Is the leading monthly kennel publication In America. A free sample copy will convince you of this fact. All breeds are treated alike so if you are interested in dogs you should not be without DOGDOM. Established in 1900, there has been a steady growth until now there are more than THIRTY THOUSAND READERS each month. Such well known authorities as Freeman Lloyd, A. F. Hochwalt, Dr. O. P. Bennett, Bert Franklin, D. V. M., Laurence Tobin, Edward Axtell and Dr. F. A. Fisher write for DOGDOM. The Question Box, in which you may have answered any questions as to breeding, dis- eases, etc., free of charge, is alone worth more than the subscription price. The Christmas Supplement to DOGDOM is given free to subscrib- ers with the regular December issue. This edition is printed on the highest grade, plate paper, and contains reviews of the finest dogs and kennels in the world. $1.00 A YEAR CANADIAN AND FOREIGN, $1.25 SAMPLE COPIES FREE As an advertising medium DOGDOM Is without a peer. The amount of display and classified advertising carried each month ex- ceeds that of any other dog paper. If you have a dog to sell or to offer at stud send at once for a DOGDOM rate card. The price may be higher, but the results will more than warrant any extra expenditure. It will prove the cheapest advertising in the long run. DOGDOM can supply any book about dogs published. Send for list. DOGDO F. E. BECHMANN, PUBLISHER BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN. 250 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. times of the day and if a trench is dug in the earth on a line with the edges of the roof a dry spot for the dogs to lie in when it rains or the ground is wet will be afforded. Guide as to Proper Size Doses of Medicine for Dogs. — In many cases your druggist or family physician would know what remedy to prescribe for your dog, but would not know how much of the medicine to give a dog. Let them be guided by the following: A proper sized dose of medicine for the largest breeds of dogs may be given the same as if for a man. We will take the St. Bernard, Great Dane, or Mastiff, as requiring a dose we will call one part; middle sized dogs like a setter or pointer can be given from a half to three-quarters as much as a St. Bernard, while a dog like a fox terrier, a third; a dog the size of a pug, a quarter; and smaller toy dogs, from one-eighth to a twelfth part. In regard to age: the matured dog, one part; a year old, three-quarters; six to nine months, half; and at four to six weeks, one-eighth. This is Dalziel's idea, and he is the first one to furnish a guide that I know of. I have had doctors bring their dogs to me to treat, and tell me that they really did not know how much to give the dog of the remedy that they knew was required in the case. Preparing for Shows. — The preparation of dogs for shows is a matter upon which we are often asked for advice, and in view of the season which will soon be here for fall and winter shows a few lines will perhaps be appreciated. The most notable feature of the inquiries made about this subject lies in the obvious fact that the aspirants to exhibition fame do not realize the necessity for preparation until the time has gone by for doing any real good; then at the eleventh hour there is wild excitement about matters that ought to have been foreseen and arranged weeks, perhaps months — earlier. A dog needs to be put through some sort of training course just as an athlete does; and unless he is initiated into the proper methods of deportment he is not likely to find favor in the eyes of the judges, re- porters or public. To some extent a dog intended for exhibition is public property, and the public who pay to come and see him ought to have him exhibited to them in the best condition and with the best manners possible, says Our Dogs. How can a dog be taught to look his best? Well, chiefly by being kept in good conditions by careful dieting, and particularly by regular exercise. Keep his blood flowing freely through his veins — keep him alert — ready for his meals, well-groomed and well amused — for dogs like amusement as much as their masters do. Do not let him get into "slack" ways — keep him "up to the mark." These methods, and some occasional exercise in the manoeu- vres of the show ring, will have an excellent effect. Rehearse, rehearse! There is nothing like plenty of rehearsal to make a show run smoothly. Now, what about being "proof against distemper?" Is not that a large order to execute all at once? Who is going to make a dog proof against the great Fiend that waylays the race of dogs. Several things may be done. It can be ascertained probably whether he has had distemper. There is no surety that he will not have it again, but it is a safeguard — experience showing that it is the exception for a dog to contract the disease a second time — though many dogs do. Then, bearing in mind that contagious diseases always need a receptive condition on the part of their victim, we should always take care that a dog is never sent to a show if he seems at all "below par" or run down. Give him beforehand some cooling medicine and plenty of exercise. One of the great- est destroyers of disease germs is oxygen — aerate his blood therefore with plenty of ozone — he will be less likely to contract disease. Disinfectants are not of much value applied to the coat; we should trust more to the general condition of health and to a thorough disinfection on returning from the show. No dog with a cold or discharge from the nostrils or running at the eyes ought to be sent to a show; at a good show no doubt such a condition would be noticed at the veterinary examination and the dog would at once be refused admission. Stringent rules are very necessary at big shows, and it USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 251 is not always possible to enforce stringent rules without injuring some sus- ceptibilities. The first three points surely do not need much explanation — but they do need emphasis. Dogs intended for show must be so fed and groomed that they are in full condition of health, but not gross; and their skins are free from — we will not say mange, which is a product of filth, but from eczema, a blood irritation affecting the skin; that they are constantly well-groomed fo keep their coats in proper order, there is not anything as good for a dog's coat as regular grooming; that have no trace of worms. Worms must be sought after from a month to six weeks before the show comes on; the more or less drastic treatment necessary to dispossess them will naturally reduce the animal to a condition not up to show standard; and as one dose is never enough (really) to free a dog from worms it is well to begin in time. Let him have one or two or three good dosings, well in advance of the show- time, and then all that should be needed afterward is an occasional mild aperient pill or capsule just to keep the pests from getting a lodgement again. Age of Maturity. — The larger breeds of dogs, like St. Bernards, Mastiffs, Great Danes, or Newfoundlands, do not mature until two years of age; setters and pointers at twelve to fifteen months, while fox terriers and dogs of this size, and including smaller breeds, will, as a rule, mature at a vear old. Determining Age of Dogs. — Many novices will appreciate a few lines upon the subject of how to determine the age of a dog. Fortunately, there is not the amount of roguery in the canine fancy as there is in "horsey" circles, but now and again no doubt the amateur gets "bitten." To a certain extent the age can be determined by examining the teeth. A dog of mature age has forty-two teeth, and these are complete in num- ber at the age of about eight months. This clearly indicates the age so far, but after that there is no method so certain, and a good deal of judgment is needed. As a rule the teeth of an old dog will be dark and lacking in the pearly look of a young animal's teeth — but even this must not be too much relied upon, as cunning dog dealers take care to use a tooth brush freely if such be necessary, and, moreover, dogs' teeth vary a great deal, as ours do. Generally speaking, the age of a dog can best be adjudged by a combi- nation of appearances. Old dogs are quiet and stolid, whereas youth car- ries activity with it. Moreover, curious as it may sound, grey hairs will tell a tale in dogs as well as in our own case, for it is often noticeable that a dog has become gray in the face and about the ears. So we have several points to judge by, i. e., appearance of coat as regards greyness; general demeanor; condition of teeth. To these may be added the state of the claws, which in some breeds are curled round and often disposed to be sore and festering. Finally, we may suggest as good advice that the opinion of an expert be taken in any case of doubt. The novice should never purchase a dog at a show or upon any such sudden inspiration with- out being guided by a competent adviser. Treatment of Field Dogs. — During the season when sportsmen pass bench shows and put their dogs in trim for the pursuit of Bob White, sporting dogs need to be dealt with at this season, because there are cer- tain ailments which affect them in a greater degree than other clogs; and a knowledge of how to properly treat cases of sickness among field dogs is, of course, very essential, unless they are to be entirely incapacitated. In the first place, it is most essential that when a dog has been at work in the field he shall be attended to at once on his return home at night. The dog should be thoroughly groomed; if wet let him be rubbed dry with a rough towel. So many careless gamekeepers allow dogs to come in wet from the field and send them to kennel without any attention ■ — the result is that they get either rheumatic or asthmatical. Another important thing is to examine the feet and ears with a view to the removal of all thorns and other foreign substances which are likely to set up in- flammation, and then will incapacitate the animal for some days at least. It it should be found on examination that the feet are sore and inflamed, 252 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. they should be bathed in tepid water, and afterward with advantage may be sprinkled with powdered Fuller's earth, which is very absorbent and cooling as wejl. As we said above, rheumatism is another common ailment affecting dogs which have been neglected after exposure to bad weather. Rheu- matism occurs either in the hindquarters or in the front limbs, and when it takes the latter form it is known as "kennel lameness." This again is an ailment which will recur from time to time under unfavorable condi- tions. It can best be dealt with by the use of a good strong liniment or embrocation — such, for instance, as a mixture of equal parts of turpentine and soap liniment, which is very searching, especially if a little hartshorn be added. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is salicylate of soda. The dog must also be carefully dieted, care being taken not to overfeed him during the prevalence of the attack. In this case, again, it is to be borne in mind that one attack is likely to be followed by others upon the least pro- vocation, and special care should therefore be given to deal with a trouble as soon as it appears. (See article on Rheumatism). Dogs in the field are liable now and again to take up poisoned meat, which, in spite of the fact that it is contrary to the law of the land to • place it about, is very often laid about with the object of destroying rats. A dog should never be allowed to eat meat or anything of that kind that he picks up in the field if he can possibly be prevented from doing so. The commonest poison likely to be picked up in this way are arsenic and strychnine. It is impossible to mistake a case of strychnine poisoning, be- cause the victim has twitchings and the limbs are drawn up; in the case of arsenic there is vomiting, swelling of the tongue, and great pain espe- cially noticeable if the hand be placed on the belly. The best thing to do in any case is to administer an emetic. Mustard and water is the like- liest thing, and that can be followed in the case of arsenic by a dose of powdered magnesia, or, in the case of strychnine, by giving a quantity of fat. Rearing Winter Puppies. — Puppies born during the late autumn and winter months are more trouble to rear than those whelped in the spring or summer. The changeable weather which is experienced in most parts tends to check their growth and make them more prone to develop disease than under more favorable circumstances. Could weeks of hard, dry frost be insured, then the rearing of puppies would be an easy matter, even to the novice, for however delicate the breed, it is rarely they will not thrive under such invigorating conditions as the sharp, crisp air of a bright frosty day which is occasionally experienced in mid-winter. Puppies, like all ani- mals and vegetable creation, will expand to the sun's rays, cold though the air may be, and feel it is a joy to live. But even under the most unfavorable conditions, such as were ex- perienced during November and December of last year, it is quite possible to rear a large majority of the puppies, provided common sense is brought to bear and the dam is well nurtured and nourished before and after whelping. For the first few weeks of their existence the puppies them- selves require little attention beyond seeting that they all, as far as possible, get the same amount of food, e. g., that the stronger do not push the weaker away from the dam. When the latter is the case, if the puppies are val- uable, it is advisable to have a good foster mother to assist in rearing the weaker. One cause of failure in the rearing of autumn and winter puppies is that they are pampered too much, even very often in the case of the larger and hardy breeds, such as St. Bernards, Retrievers, etc. There is a suc- cession of rainy days, the ground becomes wet and sodden, consequently the puppies are shut up in a kennel run, an outhouse, stable, barn, or what-not, where very little light or air can reach them, with the result that they all lie huddled up together for warmth, there being very little natural warmth in their poor little bodies; they are miserable and too dejected to play and romp about. The dam, in her mistaken kindness, en- USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 263 courages them in this lethargic state, because the door is kept fast closed against her, and she cannot have her liberty when and how she pleases. Even when the rain ceases and for a few hours the elements are pro- pitious, advantage is not taken of the smile of the gods that be, and be- cause the ground is wet and cold it is thought these poor little shivering puppies must not run out and get their little (or big) paws wet, they must still be kept in till the ground has, at least, some semblance of dry- ness. Now, if advantage were taken of every bit of dry weather and the puppies allowed a run out to exercise, even if only for half an hour, they would return to their kennel refreshed, their blood would course through their veins more naturally, they would play and scramble about and eat their food with added zest. When the sun, however, puts forth his rays, if the puppies had some straw, coarse shavings, or dry bracken (which is often obtainable in the country) laid down in a corner of a yard or garden, they could be left there for several hours, or at least during the warmest part of the day, say from 11:30 to 2:30, and if a few big bones were given them they would keep on the move and there need be no fear of colds. Light and air are absolutely necessary to all creation, and puppies, like men, cannot thrive without either; therefore if they are to be successfully reared at all times of the year they must have a plentiful supply of both, which form as large a part of their well-being as food. Dogs Barking at People Passing. — Here is another very bad habit that dogs get into — generally their owner's fault, and not the dog's, because if when the dog first began this it had been then corrected, this bad habit would have been checked. Don't allow your dog to run out and bark at any person or vehicle passing. When it does so, get your whip and give the dog — caught in the act — a whipping, and you can soon break him of it. Aside from the annoyance to people it is dangerous for your dog, as in running and barking at a team he is liable to get in front and get run over, hurt or killed. Dogs must be made to behave, as all dogs should do. Fighting Dogs. J — I am a lover of any and all kinds of Sport — that is legitimate and not cruel. If two men want to fight — all right — they know just what they are doing, and what to expect, and the one that gets licked can stop when he has to — and be "counted out." I draw the line of sport at dog fighting, a brutal sport (?) it is, and the man who will allow his dog to fight is, just not a man, and not near as good as the commonest cur dog that ekes out a miserable existence — a to be pitied — homeless and friendless wanderer on the streets. I breed Bull Terriers, that would rather fight than eat, if they had been starved a month, but never are they allowed to fight if I can prevent it, and I generally can. I decline to sell — if I know dog is to be used for fighting, as I would not knowingly sell a dog for this purpose for a thousand dollars. I take this oppor- tunity right here to advise any one who wants a fighting dog to save their postage stamps and not write to me for a bull terrier if they want it for fighting purposes. Pure bred bull terriers are seldom used for this pur- pose, however, as the persons who want "pit dogs" are the kind that are not willing to pay for a genuine and well bred specimen. The mixed breeds used for this are commonly called "Bull Dogs," a misnomer, as a genuine bull dog is never a fighting dog. 254 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. THE TEETH OF THE DOG The dog, like all other animals that give suck to their offspring, has two sets of teeth, the first or milk or deciduous teeth, and the second or per- manent teeth, says a writer in Field and Fancy. The first set of teeth are shed about three and a-half to five or six .months in the larger breed of dogs, and from five to seven months in the smaller or Toy breeds. Fre- quently Toy dogs have a good deal of trouble in shedding their teeth, and some, such as the canines or tushes, are often never shed at all, thus leaving the dog with two sets of tushes, the first being placed behind the second. The number of teeth varies according to the class of dog. The typical number of permanent teeth is forty-two. As a rule, if there should be any variation, they are excess in those clogs having long jaws, and are fewer in the short-faced dogs, such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Griffons, Toy Spaniels, etc. In the longer-faced dogs there may be as many as forty-four, while the short- faced dogs may have as few as twenty-eight, and rarely more than thirty- eight. In the hairless dogs they are usually even fewer still. When the young puppy cuts his first teeth it does not cause any trou- ble, but it is the opposite when it sheds the first and cuts the second teeth. It is a critical time with him, and predisposes him to take various diseases, such as fits, skin diseases, distemper, etc. In case the first teeth are not shed, so as to prevent the shooting up of the second teeth, it may be ne- cessary to extract them. When the temporary tushes are not shed and the second or permanent ones are up in front of them, the former should be extracted carefully, so that they are not broken and the roots in consequence left in the jaw. Between the ages of four and seven months Toy dogs should have their mouths frequently examined in order to discover if the second teeth are coming up properly and the temporary ones being shed in due order. If this is not watched an ugly mouth may result. To assist the falling of the first teeth and the regulation of the new or second teeth, young puppies should have large, uneven, raw bones given them to gnaw and tear at. The earliest disease of the teeth is erosion of the enamel, which causes the teeth to have a worm-eaten or cankered appearance. It is usually considered as a guide that the dog has had distemper either just before or at the time or after the second teeth have appeared. Although it may be taken that the dog has had distemper if this appearance of the teeth is present, it cannot be said that the dog will not have another or future attack of this disease, as cases are encountered with this appearance in second attacks of distemper. When the enamel of the teeth is eaten into, no treatment is of any use to restore the teeth to their proper appearance. The commonest disease of the teeth is a collection of tartar just around the neck of the tooth just above the gum, and which may after some time insinuate itself between the gum and most of the tooth, and set up in- flammation of the tooth socket, and in consequence loosen the tooth. Fre- quently the material encases the whole of the tooth, which looks blackish, greenish, yellowish or brownish in color, often giving off a repulsive odor when the animal is suffering from some ailment. It is due to microbes set- tling on the teeth and manufacturing a calcereous material out of the saliva and debris of food collecting on the teeth. It originates in conse- quence of the animal being deprived of tearing food, such as lumps of raw meat on a bone. Dry bones or hard biscuits do not supply the absence of this tearing food. The dog's teeth by nature are intended for biting and THE REAL DOG PAPER THE ACKNOWLEDGED LEADER IN THE KENNEL WORLD AMERICAN FANCIER AND STOCK-KEEPER DEVOTED EXCLDSIVELY TO DOGS NOW IN ITS 58th VOLUME PUBLISHED WEEKLY $2.00 PER YEAR CLASSIFIED ADS— 1 cent per word DISPLAY ADS— per inch— $1.00 per week— $3.00 per month KENNEL RECEIPT BOOKS-50 Cents UP TO DATE IN EVERY WAY AMERICAN FANCIER 36 Broomfield Street Boston, Mass. 256 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. tearing much more than crushing. Nearly all pet dogs living In towns as they approach old age suffer from this collection of tartar, whereas those dogs who live in the country and are used for sporting purposes, shepherding, watching, etc., are almost, if not always, free from it. Again, if the dog does not use his teeth for chewing, the salivary glands in the mouth are limited or put out of action and in consequence proper digestion does not take place, the chemistry of the mouth is upset, the secretions form a suitable pabulum for microbes to act upon and manufacture tartar. Therefore, from what has been said above, if one wishes to prevent the formation of tartar, one must feed a dog on tearing food that gives the mouth and teeth work to do. If this precaution be neglected and tartar should form, it ought to be removed by scraping off and brushing the teeth with some suitable wash, or powder, or soap, daily after food. When the mouth gives off a bad odor, five to ten drops of dilute hydrochloric acid should be given with the food daily as it assists digestion and rectifies the faulty secretions. The most serious diseases of the dog's teeth is inflammation of the covering of the fang of the tooth, together with that of the tooth-socket or alveoius, which brings about receding of the gum and loosening of the tooth, the root of which is bathed in pus, particles of food, and saliva. The gums are spongy, bleed on the least touch, and the mouth gives off a re- pulsive odor. It may or may not be associated with tartar. It frequently arises after distemper, typhus, or other debilitating disease. It may be arrested for a time in young dogs, but usually the teeth fall out or have to be extracted. As this disease is a progressive one, and mostly occurs in dogs that have their food cut up finely or have soft puppy food given them and teeth are not essential, should any of them become loosened they should be extracted. If the gum has receded in young dogs after some debilitating disease, it should be brushed with peroxide of hydrogen to see if it will arrest its progress. Prevention should be aimed at by giving dogs tearing food. The rarest disease of the dog's teeth is true dental disease, caries, or properly called decayed teeth. As not one in twenty or more, thousand dogs suffer from it, it need not be discussed, beyond mentioning, should It arise, the tooth should either be stopped or extracted. An associated disease of the carnassial, sometimes precarnassial or cutting molar or back tooth of the upper jaw is an abscess or swelling on the cheek just below and a little in front of the eye, which bursts and gives rise to a discharge and then heals up, to break out again and again, form- ing a fistula, etc. As it is mostly due to some disease of the tooth or teeth, which should be extracted, as no other treatment is of permanent use. It is also seen in cats. There are several defects in the position of the teeth in the jaws, and also defects of the jaw itself, so that the teeth do not meet properly; and as these are not diseases, but only faulty or arrested developments, they will not be discussed, but only mentioned here. The commonest defect is undershot, where the lower jaw protrudes in advance of the upper jaw; and overshot, where the upper jaw protrudes in front of the lower jaw. All degrees of deformity are encountered, that of the upper jaw some- times advancing several inches. In some cases of chorea, affecting the head and jaws after distemper during youth, when the bones of the skull are still yielding to pressure, the teeth protrude from the mouth outward at right angles, so that the inner surface of the upper teeth meet the inner sur- face of the lower ones, and not touching at the points. USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 257 PUPPIES A valuable special article, written by Harry W. Lacy, editor American Fancier, for this book: There is such a vast difference in the constitution, purpose and envi- ronment of different breeds that each one must be regarded in a different light. A lapdog leading a sedentary life must not be fed like a setter, nor a bulldog like a hard-worked hound. So it is in training. Each breed must be approached according to its natural vocation. There should be no trouble in raising most of the puppies, and the point that most inexperienced people fail to realize is that the puppy organism is a comparatively delicate one, requiring considerable care. The most delicate time in a puppy's life is from the fifth or sixth week — the time of weaning — until at least the third month — it is between these ages that most puppies are sold. Up to the age of weaning the pup has been reared exclusively by its mother, and it is during the time following this period, when the youngster is having a change of food, that it is sub- ject to a variety of ills. To start at the beginning, the pup you have selected is either a nervous littte thing, needing reassurance, or a cheeky brat, that needs suppressing from fche first. You will know which va- riety you have got the instant the lid of the box is off and the pup finds himself in a strange place. The few hours on the journey have been trying ones. Taken from his dam and friends and set down amid the noise of strange sounds, he often has a case of nerves. But the dog above all is a gregarious creature and If properly approached he will make himself at home. The moment the puppy arrives is the time to take possession of the field. For at least a week the utmost vigilance is required. If care be taken to prevent him from erring in that first week, he will know his posi- tion and limitations at once. But if he be allowed to own the house it will mean months of arduous and discouraging work later to subdue him. If the pup shows signs of fear at first, caress him a little just to get up his nerve, but be careful to have him alone, as there is nothing so discon- certing to the infant as to be pounced upon by a lot of strangers. When he shows signs of "coming to" let him have a few moments exercise in the yard by himself. The air will benefit him after confinement and it will give him an opportunity to answer the imperative calls of puppy nature. After a slight investigation and a few turns around the yard the pup will regain his nerves and be ready for a feed — most of them are con- stantly thinking of their stomachs when awake. Be careful to make his meal very frugal, as it is always unwise to feed while the pup is in a state of excitement, or immediately after strenuous exercise. I would recommend a little "puppy biscuit" — which can be procured at any of the pet shops — cracked up fine and softened with hot water. A little pure gravy or meat soup-stock, free from grease, added will prove very tempt- ing, but if he will take the biscuit alone it is just as well to omit the gravy, until you are sure the pup is healthy. Pups, like babies, have extremely delicate interior plumbing, and if that can be kept in order until they are well started on their growth there should be no difficulty. After feeding procure a solid beef bone — not too large for the dog to handle with ease — with nothing on it but a bit of tooth gristle, and let him take it to his bed and be quiet. There is no solace so sweet as a good bone. Left alone he will soon devote his time to the bone and gnaw him- self asleep. And if undisturbed he will awaken with a kindly disposition 258 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. towards his surroundings. The next step in order is to introduce him with as little disturbance as possoble to the members of the family. These things look trivial on the face, but they save a vast amount of confusion In the puppy mind and a deal of trouble to the owner. One particular reason for avoiding excitement is that very small puppies have little self-control, and a sudden fright, or even surprise, will result in the spoiling of a good carpet and this accident will render house-breaking very difficult. A very important problem to decide at once is whether or not the dog is to be raised inside the house. It is very dangerous to allow a young dog to sleep one night in a warm room and the next to lie out in the cold. A house dog is much more delicate than one raised outside, not only on account of being tender through the comforts of artificial heat, but from a deficient coat. If the dog is to live inside have his bed in one place and make him use it. If he is to live outside, prepare a warm box which is water tight and fill it well with clean straw. Rye straw will keep a dog almost as clean as washing. Scrupulously avoid rags or old carpets, as they hold the dirt and dampness, and are consequently unhealthy. It is wise to raise the kennel several inches from the ground, as it allows a free circulation of the air and prevents dampness. In cold weather the kennel should be as small as comfort will permit, as the heat of the body san raise it to a better temperature than a larger one. But whether your puppy is to live inside or out, make the decision at once and put him in his place as soon as possible. If he be destined to live outside take every precaution to have the kennel sheltered and dry. After a feed and a sleep the dog will accommodate himself to his surroundings, and it is always best to initiate him into his regular routine as soon as he enters a new home. This is imperative. Dogs, especially when young, are largely creatures of habit, and it i3 therefore of the greatest importance to start them right. Bad habits are formed so quickly and are so difficult to break, that with puppies a negative course must be pursued for a short time — at least until the idea of obe- dience is learned. Before teaching your dogs tricks, devote your time to the installing in his mind the fact that he is your companion, but that you are always master. For a week or ten days keep him in the straight and narrow path that leadeth to dogdom. This is not a difficult task. It requires attention and patience, but in no case is the old saying, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" truer than in the training of dogs. Every successful breeder knows this. By cleanliness, proper feeding and exercise he prevents disease, or at least reduces it to a minimum. By beginning training early he prevents the development of bad habits. It is just as important for the house pet to be guarded with the same care. Don't allow your new puppy privileges on his arrival that will be forbidden later. If he is not fed at the table he will not have to be chastised for being a nuisance when his presence is undesirable. Above all, if you would save your pet from the many disorders common to young puppies and from untold suffering, refrain from feeding cake and sweet- meats, and scrupulously guard his stomach. DOG WORLD A REAL LIVE UP-TO -DATE CANINE MONTHLY PUBLICATION "THAT'S ALL" NUF SAID SUBSCRIPTIONS $1.00 A YEAR SAMPLE COPY ON APPLICATION Dog World Publishing Co. 1333 So. California Ave. Chicago, 111 260 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. THE DOGLESS BOY "But the poor dog, in life the firmest friend, The first to welcome, foremost to defend, Whose honest heart is still his master's own, Who labors, fights, lives, breathes for him alone." — Byron. Boy is used here in a generic sense, for the love of animals, and espe- cially dogs ,is not confined to either sex. We do not think a boy was ever born who, if "entered" properly, would not love a dog when given the op- portunity. There seems to be some affinity, between children and dogs. The selfish cat may be a family pet, but its horizon of affection is usually filled with a warm fireside and a saucer of milk and the claws within the velvet are typical of its nature; uncertain of temperament and cruel even in its seeming play. Not so the dog. It matters not whether his lineage proclaims him a blue blood or a mongrel, there is something behind the eye of a dog which draws to the heart. No animal is so responsive to the hu- manizing effect as the dog. His idiosyncracies and temperament are, like those of man, much a matter of environment. Cuff him and treat him generally as an Ishmael and he becomes one, treat him like so many are in kennels nowadays, as a mere chattel to be housed and fed as one of a number and he becomes a mere automaton; but treat him as a friend, as one of your household and how soon the human influence is marked. His ideas are widened, his intelligence develops and the many beautiful traits of a confiding, honest nature which have earned him the title of man's best friend, are brought to the surface. Though the society of man has a humanizing effect on our four-footed friends, the dog himself in no less manner, through his transparent temperament and honest actions may sug- gest and encourage the same traits in the budding nature of his little friend. Every boy should own a dog. Josh Billings well said that in the whole history of the world there is but one thing that money cannot buy, to wit: "The wag of a dog's tail." He might have added there is no animal on God's earth who, in the honesty of his affection, will still love and wag his tail for the hand which beats him. The love of Bill Sykes' dog for his brutal master is one of the sublimest thoughts Dickens ever conceived. The boy who is raised with a dog for a "pal" is unwillingly humanized. The love for another is engendered in his heart, and afterward has its effect on his conduct in the wide world of mankind. Be his nature cruel, more from thoughtlessness than any inherent feeling, if he is a lad worth his salt he cannot but learn a lesson from the mild reproach of the brute he torments. A horse would kick, a cat would bite or scratch under the same pro- vocation; not so the dog. There are exceptions, of course, but no dog, we believe, is born savage; if he develops bad temper it is generally due to environment, and the parent's judgment must be exercised in providing the right sort of dog for the doy, as in other provisions for his welfare. A man may become a lover of dogs when manhood's cares and responsibilities place the dog on the same level as a favorite pipe. He has missed something. He will not "get into" his dog as he would have done as a boy. Once a dog lover always a dog lover, no matter whether the circumstances of his after life compel him to love them from afar. The dog is the better for it and so is the man. Buy your son a dog. — H. W. L. HOW TO WASH A DOG. Use luke warm water in summer, but in winter it can be warmer. Wash almost any place in summer, except in a windy place; but in winter do it in a warm room. A couple of baths a week in summer are sufficient for USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 261 health and cleanliness, and one bath a week is really just as good, and, if you would give the dog in addition a brushing and grooming, I much prefer tbis plan. Once a month in winter is enough. Winter baths are risky, and great care should be exercised as to exposure to wet or cold weather afterward. In giving a bath in cold weather do so in a warm room, using warm water. Give him a good sham- pooing — and nothing so good as your hands — using plenty of soap and rubbing it in so as to open the pores of the skin, and then rinse off with lukewarm water. Avoid getting the soap suds into the dog's eyes, or down too deep into his ears, and thoroughly dry the ears inside. An old wool blanket (a clean one of course), is a good thing for the first drying, finish- ing up with rough towels. Be sure and get the dog's head, neck and breast dry, for here lies the danger of catching cold, and be careful as to exposure out of doors that day if weather is cold or wet, exercising the same care and precaution you would for yourself after a bath. Now, as to soap. Don't consider that any soap will do for your dog, for it won't if you value a fine coat on him. Many common soaps will in- jure and ruin a dog's coat even more than they would your own skin if you used them. A cake of dog soap will only cost a quarter and last for several baths, so it's not expensive to use a good one, in fact is cheaper in the end. There is no dog soap "just the same," or, quite as good as Eberhart's. It is a different soap from any other, containing one ingre- dient that no other dog soap ever made — does contain — this one ingre- dient is a secret. There is no carbolic acid in my soap, as there is in so many dog soaps, a dangerous article to use, and quite so in a soap through absorption. It is made in as careful and cleanly a manner as is any soap made for our own use, and I just want to say here that no face soap made for people is quite so good to use on your own face. As a dandruff cure on your head nothing made can surpass it, besides it is a hair grower, and a cure as well for any scalp disease. A quarter pound bar of it I can send you by mail for Twenty-five Cents, or a dozen for $2.50, carriage paid. Spend at least ten minutes in thoroughly shampooing your dog, then rinse and dry dog thoroughly. In summer weather a good walk, or a romp in a grassy yard is a very good thing for the dog after a bath and it has been partially dried, which saves you some labor as in turning the dog out in the yard; it will naturally run and romp and finishing drying up. This plan can only work in warm, sunshiny weather. If my soap is used to kill fleas or lice, both of which it will do, then it must be used as di- rected for such cases — the lather being allowed to remain on for some time. Don't allow dog to rest or lie down till its coat is absolutely dry, and never wash within two hours after it was fed. As to washing Long Coated Dogs, that will often appear to be dry when they are not, you must exercise great care. Fill a foot tub with lukewarm (not hot) water, so that it reaches to the elbow of the dog, and beginning at head, cover the entire body with soap suds, never letting the soap itself get into the coat. With a soft hair brush of long bristles, brush the hair with the soap suds downward from the centre, until he is perfectly clean. Rinse out the coat with lukewarm water, place the dog on a table, envelope in a soft towel, and smooth it from the centre downward till he is absolutely dry. Never ruffle or rub the coat, or you will spoil it; simply smooth it. To prevent a dog catching cold after a bath apply alcohol over the entire body. Exercise after a bath will stimulate circulation. A very little cocoanut oil, thinned with warm alcohol in the palm of the hand, rub- bed over the coat will greatly improve it after washing. In lieu of winter baths with no risk to run as to catching cold, a good grooming for ten minutes with a stiff brush will accomplish all the good results of a bath, and this you can do every day with great benefit to the dog. Grooming is better and safer than baths in winter. In preparing dogs for a bench show professional handlers groom their dogs every day for a month beforehand, and this is why you always see show dogs with such fine coats. UC:', USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. LISTED WRONG. By Edgar A. Guest, in Detroit Free Press. I'VE never known a dog to wag His tail in glee if he did not feel, Nor quit his old-time friend, to tag At some more influential heel. The yellowest cur I ever knew Was, to the hoy who loved him, true. I've never known a dog to show Halfway devotion to his friend. To seek a kinder man to know, Or richer; but unto the end The humblest dog I ever knew Was, to the man who loved him, true. I've never known a dog to fake Affection for a present gain, A false display of love to make Some little favor to attain. I've never known a Prince or Spot That seemed to be what he was not. But I have known a dog to fight With all his strength to shield his friend, And, whether wrong or whether right, To stick with him unto the end. And I have known a dog to lick The hand of him that men would kick. And I have known a dog to bear Starvation's pangs from day to day, With him who had been glad to share His bread and meat along the way. No dog, however mean or rude, Is guilty of ingratitude. The dog is listed with the dumb, No voice has he to speak his creed. His messages to humans come By faithful conduct and by deed. He shows, as seldom mortas do, A high ideal of being true. *±1 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 263 BENCH SHOWS THE GOOD AND BAD OF. I have both judged and superintended dog shows for many years, have shown my own dogs for forty years, and as a "Professional Handler," am doing so yet, making about all the important shows in the United States, To ship your dog to any show, and trust it to the care of show atten- dants to feed, water and exercise — is simply a case of cruelty to animals, such dogs I see at a show. Having superintended dog shows, I know that it is almost impossible to hire attendants that will properly do their duties, being as they are, a lot of fellows who take the job because they "are out of work" — chronic in their cases — due to their worthlessness, etc. The premium lists always read that — "all dogs will be fed, watered, exercised and returned promptly" — signed by the superintendent, which is meant all right, and if this one man, the superintendent, could do the work of a hundred men, your dog might then be properly or better cared for — but entrusted to the care of attendants — it is not, unless you have a good handler engaged. At every show, no exceptions, I see many a poor dog that is never taken off his bench for exercise or to attend to nature's calls, and while he may get a drink or two and have some dog biscuit wet with plain water shoved at him to eat — just stop and realize what a hard and cruel time he is having at the show — and don't wonder that he comes home sick and in many cases a "dead dog" the result. These are plain, cold facts and can't be disputed. Aside from the cruel part, it is as essential to have your dog well shown when judged, as it would be to have your horse well driven in a race — if you expect to win. Dogs sent unaccom- panied by a handler, are yanked or pulled into the ring by an attendant, a stranger to the dog, and the result accordingly, in almost every instance. During the many years I have shown dogs, I have rarely had a dog sick afterward as the result of being at a show. The reason is this: I go to shows on the same train with my dogs, water and care for them en route, if a "lay over," so do I and the dogs are taken care of as they deserve. At the show, every dog in my string is taken off his bench for ex- ercise four to five times daily, fresh water kept in stall, bedding kept clean and changed, bowels watched when out for exercise (which if wrong, proper treatment given), and instead of trusting them to eat the dog bread mois- tened with water, which so many are not used to and will refuse to touch, every dog in my string is fed morning and night with beef and mutton, which" I buy and have cooked daily. Their health is looked after and if any signs of sickness, proper remedies administered. Every dog at a show should receive such care. You can't do too much for your dog and if you will arrange with some good handler and are willing to pay him a fair price for proper care, you need never have a sick dog as the result of show- ing him. To ship a dog to a show means from a day or two to three days in his crate, confined and uncared for as to food, drink, or a chance to attend to nature's calls, and thern, if dog is addressed to the superintendent, when he finally arrives at the show, he may lay that day yet in his crate before taken out, (the superintendent a very busy man), and some attendant fin- ally takes dog out and without even putting dog in the exercising ring, puts dog on his bench — where the poor dog very likely stays for the three or four days of the show; very little if any attention paid to him till he is packed up for his return trip home. Your dog has been serving time in 264 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. prison — and just think how he has suffered, and don't wonder if he comes home sick. If you can go yourself — with your dog — to care for him, do this, but never send him to a dog show alone. Get a handler, if you can find a good man, who, aside from handling as a business, really loves dogs, and you think will care for the dog — as the writer does — and be willing to pay him his price for handling — for your dog deserves the best care he can get. I am prepared to receive and condition dogs previous to shows. At every show, without any exceptions, I see dogs on their bench — neglected — and while it is impossible for me to attend to them all, yet I always do and sometimes exercise, if I possibly can. DOGS AS CHILDREN'S PETS Nothing in the world is more natural than the child's desire for pets. There are few children who do not early manifest a strong inclination for something to love, and this imperative desire, if fostered, becomes a power- ful agency for the child's growth of character. Every little girl loves her doll, but often she becomes dissatisfied and longs for something alive, something which will return her caresses. A mother who has a growing family must do something to keep the little hands and minds busy, and at the same time out of mischief. Perhaps the mother is very busy, or if she gives the matter any thought, she may dislike animals and consider cats a nuisance, dogs noisy, birds a great care, rabbits destructive, and white rats dirty. She may wonder why the children do not love their home and how it is they are always teasing to visit that home where the children have pets of various kinds, "a perfect menagerie," as she scornfully calls it. Alas! How many mothers and fathers .cherich their selfish ease and consult their convenience, without a thought of finding their highest en- joyment in the true development of their children. "Our first plea in favor of children owning pets is the desire for per- sonal possession which every child has. The- wish for something that shall belong exclusively to himself and be cared for by him. This care, this re- sponsibility, can not fail to make a boy more manly and a girl more wo- manly.' The thought for food and comfort of the little animals tends to develop all that is strong and tender in the child's nature. Show us a boy or a girl that is cruel or brutal to animals and we will show you a child sure to come to some bad end; but the child who early learns kindness and gentleness to the brute creation will also manifest the same spirit toward his fellow creatures. • • . .....' "Children are, as a rule, fond of animals; and by no means can kind- ness be so thoroughly inculcated in them as by the care of pets. "People who do not love animals have something seriously wrong in their constitution. A great man once said, 'I would not give much for that man's religion whose dog and cat are not the better for it.' A man who kicks his dog and beats his horse will abuse his wife and children. When you encourage a child in the care and gentle treatment of all crea- tures, you influence him to become a true gentleman or gentlewoman, and you give the world one who will expand in life and become a tender father and worthy citizen. Every child should know at a nearly age that sincere kindness in all relations of life is highest Christianity. * * * Allow the children a pet dog, because dogs are so devoted, so intelligent, so faithful that they are ready to sacrifice their lives for those they love. "Once kind to animals always kind, and the man or woman whose heart is touched by the dumb look of dependence or unselfish interest in USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 265 brute nature cannot be wholly bad though public sentiment may make he or she a criminal. "All animals are God's creatures with an intelligence a little lower than our own; they are moreover dumb and helpless and should appeal to every noble-hearted person for protection. The curse of the world is heartless- ness, selfishness and cruelty. "Animals are God's object-lessons, and the only object-lesson in Na- ture into which he has breathed the breath of life." Sir Walter Scott's eulogy: "The Almighty, Who gave the dog to be the companion of our pleasures and our toils, hath invested him with a nature noble and incapable of deceit. He forgets neither friend nor foe, remembers with accuracy both benefit and injury, and hath a share of man's intelligence but no share of man's falsehood." Not only have poets honored and glorified the courage, patience and fidelity of dogs, but the world's greatest artists have portrayed their humility and affection. There is also positive proof that in the Pharaonic age, nearly sixty centuries ago, dogs were the companions and friends of kings, and each had a name of its own, and this at a period when only those whose personality was recognized were ever given a name. PATHOS This gem, pathetic and beautiful, was in my last book, and is too good to be left out of this. Mr. H. G. Jeffrey, of the Fifth Mounted Infantry, stationed at the Mod- der River, Cape Colony, sends Our Dogs the following interesting and pa- thetic account of the return home of the Boers after the war: "Peace has come at last. Mothers, both English and Dutch, have been relieved of great anxiety; the daily searching of the papers, the terrible uncertainty, is all over. Briton and Boer are now united; the latter are now returning to their homes. "Let us accompany a young burgher who has escaped from the terrible conflict. Go with him back to the old homestead beneath the 'kop,' on the threshold of what was once his happy home — now nothing more than a desolate ruin. He sits down on all that is left of the 'stoep,' lost in reverie. He is fighting all his battles over again, thinking of those who had sat on that same 'stoep' three years ago. The sun is just settling with that gloriousness for which the African veldt alone is famous. The stillness is more than he can bear, and he could almost weep for very loneliness. But hark! He is not alone; softly a cold nose pushes itself into his hand, and two wistful, loving eyes are upturned to his. 'Tis his old dog, a skeleton of former days; too weak almost to stand, but who has remained faithfully watching the old home, never expecting to hear his beloved master's voice again. I know there are plenty of canine hearts and tongues left amongst the ruined homesteads that will give a hearty welcome to their long-lost masters." 266 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. ONLY A COLLIE DOG. The trolley's rumple sounded Above the voice of man, "When out upon the pavement A little child ran. Men held their breath in silence, For down upon her bore A big whirring auto car With honk, and glare and roar. But out upon the pavement, In the heart of London's fog, There dashed, not heeding danger,. A big brown collie dog. Without a thought of danger, While men held their breath, Out of the grasp of heaven He snatched the child from death. But there upon the pavement, In the midst of London's fog, Lay the bruised and torn body Of only a collie dog. Stratford, Ont. — Georgia Wrinkler. BUY A DOG. "I've been a good fellow, boys, I've earned all I've spent; Paid all I borrowed, Lost all I lent. I loved a woman once, That came to an end; Buy a dog, boys, He is always your friend." LADDIE." This poetic tribute to the dog that has gone beyond after a life of devo- tion to his master seems to us one of the best and most touchingly real. It was written by the playwright who resides at Kensington, L. I., on the passing of his favorite collie. Without a trace of the maudlin it touches the chord that holds the dog so near to man: He wagged his tail, to the very last And he smiles, in his last, long sleep. The troubles of life, for him, are past, In his grave, a few feet deep. His soul, for I feel that he had a soul And he thought real thoughts, I know, Has found the ultimate end, life's goal, In the Heaven where good dogs go. USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 267 He has lived with me and has suffered with me, Shed tears, in his dog-like way, He has placed his paw at times on my knee, In a vain attempt to say, "God never gave us that wondrous power, To tell all the things we feel, But I want to say, in my canine way, That my sympathy is real." So I loved my dog, to the very end And he in our daily walk, Was never just dog, put a constant friend And we had no need to talk. And I hope, when the summons comes for me, To embark on the unknown tide, I shall find his eyes in the Paradise, They say is the other side. JAMES CLARENCE HARVEY. MY TRIBUTE TO THE DOG. Senator Vests tribute to a dog, (elsewhere in this book), was probably the grandest ever made, and I want to offer mine, having known and loved dogs all my life; and the balance of my time on earth will be devoted to them: No other animal, and none of them can talk, equals your dog for honesty to you; love, faithfulness, constancy, and all the traits that a hu- man friend — your sister, brother, mother or father — should show to you. Your dog is sad when he sees you are sad, knows you are lonely, feels for you when he sees and knows you need it, (as we often do), and if he could — would do anything for you to help you, the one he loves. He would steal or kill for you, sto pat nothing. What a grand and wonderful thing is a dog's love for you — and yours for your dog, if you have been made right — and from a child up, have loved dogs. You can never do too much for your dog, nor can you improve your own life and fit it for the unknown world you are to go to, when death comes, than to do all the good you can for your dog, and for other dogs, even the poor homeless curs you meet on the streets, for they have as big a heart, as noble in every way, only lacking the "pedigree," (not their fault), as the fine-bred ones. Strive to do some good each day of your life to dogs, for you can't do anything better, (aside from paying every dollar you owe, which includes your taxes)., and you will get rewarded, which, if not so plainly shown each day — you are getting credited for it in the big book up above, where we all hope to go, and when the final balance sheet is checked off, you will get all that was coming to you, because you have done good to dogs. Fight for your dog if necessary, he would for you. AL. G. EBERHART. J«8 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. THE MODEL KENNEL — HOW TO BUILD. The following valuable article was written especially for tin's book by Mr. Fred Jacobi, Proprietor of the Woodbine Kennels, Lowell, Mich.: In view of the fact that "Man's Best Friend," the dog, has proven him- self the most faithful of all animals, accepting with good grace such care as may be bestowed upon him, whether it be from the hands of the rich whose home is surrounded with everything that is beautiful and luxurious, or the poor wandering tramp who can only afford to divide the few crumbs that he is able to beg or steal, to this ever true companion should be granted the privilege and pleasure of a place that he may know is his home. The kennel raised dog has not the liberties and pleasures of the or- dinary house dog, and to him more attention should be given as to his home and surroundings that he may thrive well and be in fit condition to be seen at all times. No dog can present a good appearance if he is brought up from puppyhood in a cellar or old sheds, cramped quarters and foul surroundings, with a dozen mates to join in the miserable life, as is often done by some breeders. It is no wonder that these dogs are always out of condition, loaded with skin diseases which infest such places. Many men would gladly give their dogs a better home and have surroundings more comfortable, yet they have been at a loss how to construct a kennel that would be best adapted for the dog's welfare. In this article I have tried to get a thorough description of a "model kennel" well suited for the convenience of twenty-five dogs, and as many more puppies. These nlans are not imaginary, but exhibited at the Woodbine Kennels, Lowell, Mich., where visitors are always welcome. First should be considered the location. This should be high and dry soil, a side hill will give the best results so that excessive rains will not form pools of water in the kennel yard. Select your site and stake it off ten rods square. Get cedar posts nine feet long, set them in the ground three feet, one rod apart, taking special care that corner posts are firmly anchored. Dig a trench from post to post eighteen inches deep. Next get some No. 12 galvanized wire, lay this in trench and staple to each post, drawn tight with wire stretcher. After this wire is drawn tight all around the yard at bottom of trench, then start the second wire just two inches above the lower wire, then the third, and so on until you have nine rows of wire two Inches apart. Next throw the earth into the trench, leaving the top wire exposed. By taking this precaution you may rest assured that your dogs will never trouble you by digging out of the kennel yard. Now get fortv rods of good, reliable kennel fencing, which should be six feet high, and a two-inch mesh. Fasten to posts firmly, the lower wire meeting the top wire previously fastened from post to post. The foundation of kennel building should be next to be considered, this should be of stone, 18 inches thick and three or four feet high, 16x60, will furnish ample room. Have opening at each end of wall, 2x3 feet, to allow dogs to run in during hot days or stormy weather. Next lay the joists. then the studding, which should be six or seven feet high. Have good pitch to roof. Before putting on siding or shingling, get some good building paper, covering all sides and roof. For this purpose there is nothing finer made than "Cabot's" sheathing, a superior building paner, two lavers of paner between which is woven eel grass % inch in thickness. This paper will keen out heat as well as cold, is germ proof and can not burn on ac- count of the saltv nature of the lining. Place this on roof boards before shingling if a thorough iob is wanted. Next put on your siding. Have three windows on each side. 30x6 0, two sash that will slide by each other, much handier than ones that raise. Have door at each end of kennel. Have a brick chimney built at each end of kennel. In summer time you can use chimney in cook room with short length of pipe; in the cold weather you can run stove pipe the full length of building to other chim- ney, which will warm up the interior at no greater expense while the food is being cooked. Next put up a partition at each end of building, 10x16, one f# b& used tor poojf #nd wash pom, (the QtyGt tor .office. The floor i& f.h§ tlSEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 269 Wash room should be built on a slant to allow all water to run away freely. You will now have a space of forty feet between office and cook room which will be used for kennels or stalls for the dogs as follows: On each side of building from office to cook room make a solid bin or box of match- ed flooring three feet high and four feet wide; the frame work of this stall should be of two-inch strips, one inch thick, have them cut three and four feet long, nail firmly at corner one of each size; this will form a square; now draw a line from one end of room to other on each side near wall, this will line up your frame work perfectly. Nail one end of frame to each studding, the other corner to floor, now proceed to put on your matched flooring. Nail front solid, the top should be en hinge to get at dogs and clean out easily, so only nail firmly the two first boards near wall, then have balance of top work on hinge. Now divide this long stall in small compartments by placing a partition of matched flooring at every second studding or four feet, studding being two feet apart; have top sawed across every four feet so that each stall will have a separate door at top, which will give you ten separate stalls on each side. Now have an opening cut through siding, 12x18, for a door in each stall; have this at one end of each stall instead of centre, as your dogs can lay away from doorway in case of heavy winds or hot or cold weather. In winter weather for day protection have a common grain sack or carpet tacked on inside over door to keep out cold and severe drafts. For night protection a dog should have even more than this for a dog, like the human being enjoys comfort at night. For this purpose the simplest and best method is to have a sliding door on outside. This should be made of matched flooring four inches wider and longer than the opening, and have this door made so it will slide easily up and down by placing a screw eye on top to which is fastened a good heavy cord, having this pass up and over a pulley through a hole in building, so that door can be raised or lowered at will from each side of building. After the stalls are made you will have a large room, 40 feet long and 8 feet wide, where you can keep a sick dog or bitches in season, or use it as a store room for crates, etc. One side of the kennel and yard should be kept for matured dogs, the other for puppies and bitches in season or for bitches with pups. In order to protect the pups and bitches in season, get some wire fencing and divide off one side of kennel yard same as their stalls, nail one end of fencing firmly to building or to a post set at building and have this fencing go straight out to a post at fencing which composes your main kennel fence. This will give you ten separate yards that are four feet wide and about forty feet long, sufficient for the puppies until they are old enough to go in the main yard with the matured dogs. Bitches kept in an enclosure like this are absolutely safe from stray stud dogs, neither can they get out, as has been the source of much an- noyance to many owners of bitches in season. Do not neglect to place eva troughs on building, have a large tank to catch the water so that you may always have a good supply of soft water for washing the dogs. The handiest tub to wash dogs in is made of clear pine boards 14 in. wide, 6 feet long. Make box tight and paint it. With a box like this you can work all around your dogs in washing. Place this tub near tank, have tank elevated so that after washing you can give the dog a good rinsing from tank which should have a faucet and short piece of hose at bottom. Remember that the kennel yard should be plowed up or spaded over once a month; this will keep the soil in a sweet and sanitary condition. Do not forget that a dog likes to lay under the spreading branches of a shade tree, and that it will add to their comfort to have a generous amount set in the yard as well as a row around it. For this purpose there is not a handsomer or more thrifty fast-growing, tree than the Carolina poplar, not the tall, lanky Lombard poplar, which is an eye sore and nuisance. The Carolina poplars can be secured from any nursery at from 15 to 25 cents each when ten feet high; these will make large trees in three years. The kennel yard would mot be complete without a good pump and well so that the dogs can have fresh water several times each day. An earthen dish of good size is best for this, and have it sunk in ground to keep water cool. If convenience 19 270 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. wanted and small expense not objected to it would be well to have a one- inch pipe run from pump to each of the yards leading to each dish; at the pump you could have a connection that would fill each dish independently or fill all at one time; this would avoid the bother of carrying water in pail to each dish. If you follow the plans as set forth above, I know you will have a kennel that will suit you in every detail and one which will be a pleasure to your best friends, "the dog." Should you at any time wish any further advice on this subject, I will be only too pleased to assist you in any way possible, knowing it will benefit the kind, dumb creature who gives his master worlds of pleasure and is ever faithful, be he the companion of the rich or poor. Stud JDogs. — a great deal of a breeder's success depends upon the state of health in which the stud dog begets offspring; for a delicate or un- healthy dog is more than likely to transmit his defects to his puppies, who are in consequence more difficult to rear, and of less value when they at- tain maturity. Considerable attention should therefore be paid to the comfort of a dog who is in the habit of receiving a large number of stud visits. He should, if possible, be well exercised morning and evening, either by a country walk, or a run round his owner's yard; and his diet must be wholesome and liberal. Stud dogs should never be used during the heat of the day, whatever the exigencies may be. It should be borne in mind, too, that it is always well to have your stud dogs look clean and tidy, both when out of doors and when in the kennels. Much depends upon the first impressions formed by the owner of a bitch who contemplates breeding from him, and many a dog is passed over whose services, had he been in better fettle, might have been resorted to. Care should be taken not to overtax the energies of a young sire by allowing him to receive too many visits; the result of excesses in this way being both sickly offspring and his own ultimate failure at the stud. Fifteen or twenty bitches a year are quite enough for a dog not in his prime, and about twice the number for a dog in the full vigor of his strength. As a rule, dogs under eighteen months old are not likely to do themselves or their owners much good if bred from; and availing one's self of the services of a very old dog is always risky. It is extremely hard to state an age at which a dog can be said to be "old;" some retain the vigor of their youth up to ten years and more, whilst others get decript and break up at six or seven. So much depends upon constitution and careful attendance that it is impossible to advise upon the age at which a stud dog ceases to be of use; but breeders should see the dog for themselves, if they do not know him, and judge from his ap- pearance and condition, whether he is likely to suit their wishes. In this age of bench show celebrities the precautions necessary to ob- tain the best results are too often neglected in the case of a stud dog on which there is a big run, and doubtless, carelessness in looking after the bitch is responsible for a good many "misses." A sire should be looked upon with suspicion if his services are in too great request, and the number of his receptions unlimited, as it is only reasonable to expect sickly offspring from a dog whose stud experiences are practically unrestricted. A very old dog, unless mated to a young and vigorous bitch, is more than likely to fail to get stock at all; and if he succeeds in doing so, the puppies are very frequently of bad constitution and delicate in their earlier days. It is often the case that the services of a successful show dog are most eagerly sought after by breeders, and the merits of his father entirely overlooked; and this is certainly a fact which must puzzle all practical men when they reflect upon it. A good sire of good pedigree, who can produce stock of superior quality to himself, is better worth patronizing at a low fee than his successful son who has yet to prove himself the success at the stud which he is on the bench or in the field; especially as in the latter instance the sum charged for his ser- vices is sure to be a considerable one. Many of our champion dogs have turned out complete failures from a breeder's point of view; while their USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 271 plainer looking fathers or brothers have begotten offspring of a far better stamp, though with only half the chances of success. A stud fee is for the service of the dog to the bitch, irrespective of whether any puppies result from the union or not, unless special arrange- ments have been previously made between the owner of stud dog and brood bitch, varying that accepted custom, or the dog should be proved a non- stock getter, in which case the latter may claim back any fee paid. After the visit they should both be fed and put away in a separate kennel. A bitch that has visited the dog should not be sent on a railway journey the same day. Bitches Sent for Service. — On the arrival of a bitch for service, the owner of the stud dog should, unless time is a matter of consideration, fasten her up securely and let her recover from the fatigues of her journey before the introduction takes place. A night's rest and a feed are very likely to assist Natures' course, a bitch served immediately after a tiring journey being far more likely to miss conception than one who has rested and be- come a little accustomed to the place and those around her. Many bitches are very troublesome and restive when with the dog, and throw" them- selves about in a violent manner; others are savage and morose, and if not carefully looked after are likely to fly at him and perhaps do some serious injury. In such cases the bitch must be held by the collar, but care should be taken that she does not get half suffocated by too tight a grasp being placed on it. The possibility of a fight taking place, or of the dog requiring some assistance, especially in the case of young bitches, make it undesirable that the pair should be left alone together for any length of. time, much less after connection has terminated. After union it is some time before the animals can be separated; twenty minutes is about the average, though, of course, this period is often exceeded or decreased in duration. After that the breeder must wait pa- tiently for Nature to take its course, when the bitch should be kennelled by herself on straw, and kept as quiet as possible. It is desirable that a second visit should, if possible, be paid after an interval of thirty-six or forty-eight hours. The majority of the owners of stud dogs gladly con- sent to this arrangement, as it lessens the chances of the bitch proving bar- ren, and also saves them trouble, and their dogs from getting a bad name as a stock getter. When you get your bitch home, she is very likely to be yet in season, as being served generally prolongs the season for a few days — and you must now be very careful that no other dog gets at her, which might spoil all that was done. KENNEL SUGGESTIONS Quite a number of the following have been written by Harry W. Lacy, Editor of the American Fancier, a mair who understands dogs and their care, which he learned in England — and I have saved these up, as much benefit can be derived therefrom, as well as "Kennel Dont's," which fol- lows this. A number of suggestions for the care of dogs have been made from time to time in "Notes for Novices" in Our Dogs (Eng.), and in them there is a great deal to be learned in the way of detail by every novice who starts to keep a dog or dogs. Incessant watching for and proper at- tention to those little matters count for much more than one would think at first sight. But the experienced fancier knows the value of those extra attentions, and his knowledge can be seen in the general appearance of 272 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. his dogs, whereas the new beginner is often too fond of leaving servants and other disinterested persons matters which he should attend to himself. Take, for instance, the matter of feeding. How many dog owners there are (especially in the upper class of society) who never give the least attention to their dog's feeding, leaving it entirely to others, and only waking up now and again when something has gone wrong. Feeding, if left to any careless person who chances to be employed about the premises, is certain to be irregular and unsatisfactory, and every owner ought to consider it his bounden duty to superintend regularly the feeding of his dumb friends. Many dogs are given — especially when hungry — to "bolting" their food. This is a" bad habit, and is sure to have an ill effect sooner or later. To prevent a dog from habitually doing this it is best to give him, before his proper meal, a hard, dry biscuit. This will take off, as it were, the edge of appetite and so, when the usual basin is given, it will be consumed more moderately. Large bones should be regularly given to dogs, because they act splen- didly as cleaners to the teeth, the rasping of every vestige of meat doing this most effectually. Large bones only should be given, because if too small the dog will crunch them up and swallow them, which is dangerous. The best way to give a pill to a dog is to sew it up in a piece of meat. Then tossing the animal one or two pieces of similar size, which are at once bolted, the piece containing the pill may follow successfully. It is important that from first to last the dog be kept ignorant of what he is taking. Once bitten, twice shy applies here. So the pill or powder must be well concealed. In giving a liquid, instead of forcing open the jaws and pouring the liquid into the mouth, where it will remain and half choke the creature, since he can not swallow while his mouth is wide open, it is much better to use the lower part of the lips as a sort of funnel and slowly pour the medicine into that, when it will be impossible for the dog to avoid swallowing it. Many fanciers — novices that is — experience a great deal of trouble in physicking their dogs, simply from want of knowledge of how to go about it, and it often happens more harm is done to the dog by the strug- gling and fright than good by the medicine; and not only so, but it is well nigh impossible to give a proper dose unless the dog is kept absolutely quiet, and that only can be when either the medicine is tasteless or the administrator of it skillful. If a person wants a dog for a pet only, he can make a pet or a genial companion of any of the recognized breeds, and his accomplishments will only be limited by the amount of companionship and education granted him, and your choice should be based simply on choosing a breed you most admire. Your choice of a companion rests also with you. Different men admire different kinds of companions. Hot Weather on Uogs. — Every provision should be made during the heated season to protect the dogs, especially suckling puppies. Whereas a dry cellar is convenient, it is a good plan during the extreme heat of the day to make arrangements for their comfort in this cool retreat. Particular attention should be paid to providing cool and frequent changes of drinking water. Water placed in porous earthenware pots will be found to keep cooler and sweeter than in metal vessels, and these should be washed out thoroughly every day. The intelligent kennel man- ager will always provide artificial shade in kennel yards when Nature has not done so, and it is well to have awnings over kennel windows and doors. Exercise only during the early morning hours and in the evening, the rest of the day let the dogs lie quietly. In arranging kennels it is always a good plan to build the kennel floor two or three feet from the ground. This space makes an admirable retreat in hot weather and, admitting of a free current of air at all times, provided the kennels are built on a natur- al drainage slope, there is no fear of a damp kennel floor in winter, which, for obvious reasons, is a serious defect in kennel architecture. USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 873 During very hot weather it would be well to remove all bedding from under litters of very young puppies. Place them on the floor so the air can circulate around them. During this trying season the young puppies, must be kept as cool as possible or they will go under. A big lump of ice placed in the shade of the window-sill will help cool the atmosphere in the kennels. Care — Diet — Nursing. — Absolute cleanliness, an unfailing supply of fresh air, a suitable temperature, plenty of fresh water, general comfort, and last but not least, companionship is needed by a sick dog. Locking a dog in a darkened room or stall, or any unaccustomed change, will work havoc with a sick dog. He wants to see his master, he relies upon his companionship, and he turns to him as if to a god, with a sublime confi- dence in his master's ability to help him in his difficulty. A word of ap- probation is worth more to his nervous system than drugs, and he will frequently eat and take nourishment simply to please his master. Dogs have sensitive stomachs, and often, as a result of indigestion, refuse to eat altogether. In these cases this is Nature's method of work- ing a cure. If the dog is down with some febrile disorder that is rapidly weaken- ing him it is important that he take some nourishment. Necessarily it must be of the lightest and most sustaining character. Medical practitioners and trained nurses have brought the dietary of the sick room up to a perfection that the canine practitioner can study with good results. There are a number of predigested foods easy of preparation, nour- ishing and sustaining. Milk, mutton broth, gelatine and raw eggs are val- uable foods. Boiled rice is easy of digestion. Raw beef or mutton, minced or chopped fine, fed a few teaspoonfuls at a time, will act in many cases as a tonic to an exhausted stomach, and should be resorted to, as there is always danger of a disordered stomach rebelling against too long contin- ued liquid food. A few teaspoonfuls of brandy or port wine will frequently cause the stomach to retain food that would otherwise be rejected. It is best given in the form of an egg-nog and fed a few teaspoonfuls at a time. A dog will eat small quantities of food offered from his master's hand when he will refuse it from a dish. Do not allow a pan of food to remain before him after he has declined to eat. Remove it at once and offer it at some future time. Conduct of Dogs in the Show King — Of far more importance than is often thought to be the case, is the conduct of a dog when before the judge. A dog to be seen at his best on the eventful day should have some little preliminary training. It is one thing to have a decent specimen, and quite another for it to comport itself so that the judge can take in at a glance, and with the least possible delay, the chief points. A dog that will not show itself to advantage is at an obvious disadvantage with one that knows the business thoroughly, and whose owner is able to display all his strong points without unduly exposing his weak ones. Old show hands know this very well, as any one may see for himself by watching attentively the expert handlers at a show like the New York Show. There are some judges who will take a lot of pains to get a nervous dog to show himself, but there are others, having heavy classes to judge, who cannot bestow the time necessary to get each individual dog in the best humor to show himself. Such being the case, it is, too, politic of an owner to either take the dog into the ring himself, or else leave it to someone who is an expert in the business, or that the dog knows perhaps as well as its owner. All owners cannot, of course, keep a kennelman, or indeed, accompany their charges; but if a valuable dog is being shown it Is not wise to leave it to a perfect stranger to "handle" the animal. There are a number of expert handlers at every show, and the novice that has a good dog and cannot conven- $74 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. iently attend himself would find it to pay him to enlist the services of one of these professionals. Where there is no one deputized to act the part of handler, it is left to the keepers to bring in the dog. Naturally the dog will not show himself for these men as it would for its owner or some one fully conversant with show ring business, and suffers accordingly. Dogs are highly sensitive animals, and often when sent away without any previous preparation look and really are dejected. The person, therefore, who aspires to be an exhibitor, and to get every advantage possible out of his or her dog, will be well advised to rehearse a few times the actual business of the show ring. Take your pups out into the road early, to accustom them to curious sights and sounds, it makes all the difference at their first show. Accustom them to follow you without lead early, also to have on a collar, and to lead nicely. This cannot be done in a field or garden they know well, or they will scream and crouch, but in a road or quiet street they will pay more attention to you. I would particularly impress on all who own dogs — especially young owners — that it is not only to their interest, but it is their duty to be true masters, ruling with firmness and kindness, and providing for all the wants of the animal in lodging, food, and exercise on principles of common sense; and it must be evident that thus only can health be maintained. If a dog have not proper food provided at proper times, but be allowed to be the scavenger of the yard and the street, what wonder if he become loathsome and diseased, a nuisance to his owner and everyone else? If, on the other hand, he be pampered, petted, and stuffed with tit-bits and sweet cakes, he will lose all kindliness of disposition (the great charm of a companion dog), and become a morose, peevish, snappish misanthrope, that your friends may praise, but dare not pat; he will lose all beauty of form, all sprightliness and elasticity of action and become an unshapely, asthma- tical lump of obesity, to whom the slightest exertion is a trouble. Ladies, who are the great offenders in this way should remember that dogs are not valued — like prize hogs — for their fatness, and that they are never so healthy and happy as when in good working condition — that is, when they can take a good gallop without puffing. KENNEL POINTS Don't wash a bitch while in season. Don't breed a bitch until the colored discharge has ceased. Don't breed a valuable stud dog several times to one season. One ser- vice is just as good if not better than half a dozen. Don't wash the bitch while in whelp. If she should get wet, out shoot- ing for instance, see that she has a warm bed and rug her down before she retires. Don't give your dogs hot food; it is not natural, injures their teeth and leads to indigestion. Don't prevent a bitch that is in whelp from eating whatever she pleases, though if you find she has a penchant for filthy matter, carrion and other flotsam and jetsam of the street let her have her way, or better give her sulphur in her feed. Don't send your bitches into water while in whelp — at any rate not after the fourth week. Don't keep your bitches in whelp chained up or kenneled continually, they should have plenty of gentle walking exercise every day, especially the last three weeks before whelping. Don't neglect to feed your brood bitches with every food that will USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 275 strengthen and stimulate the mother in the trying periods of pregnancy and while suckling pups. It is impossible for a hen to cover the egg meat with hard shell unless it have access to lime and other shell producing matter. So with the bitch; when her puppies are required to show bone this state is greatly aided by supplying bone producing foods. Precipitated phosphate of lime should be given to the bitch in her food during the last weeks of pregnancy and after whelping and then to the puppies until two or three months old. Half a teaspoonful daily to a pup is sufficient. Don't, if you can avoid it, keep your bitches in whelp in kennels or jards where they must continually jump up on their hind legs in order to lock upon thu outer world; have open wire or slats for fencing and divis- ions. If you must have solid partitions build them so high that the bitch v ill never attempt to jump up in order to look over. More puppies are slip- ped and more bitches miss from this abnormal exercise than most breed- ers imagine. Don't wash a dog and then allow it to run around and dry itself. If you take enough interest in the dog to wash it, you should not be too lazy to dry him afterward. Don't give up hope of a sick dog; they have most remarkable recuper- ative powers and will frequently take a right turn when least expected. Don't if a dog is doing well without medicine, force it on him, and, as a rule, if a dog is resting quietly or sleeping, do not disturb him to give him medicine. Don't in buying medicine, be satisfied with anything but the very best. Beware of cheap, coarse castor oil, adulterated quinine and cod liver oil, and it may also be stated that some of the proprietary medicines on the market are dangerous. Don't guess at doses, measure them carefully and if the medicine is ' to be given at night keep the dog confined until morning. Don't expect a puppy to know as much as an adult dog. Don't keep a dog unless you are fond of it. , Don't expect to house-break a pup in a week. Dcr't ill-use him because he does not understand you. Don't wait too long to break him to chain and collar. Don't think that a dog has no likes or dislikes. Don't whip him if he barks at a stranger, and never kick your dog. Don't allow him to have his own way, but be firm and determined with him, using only enough punishment to control him, if you can't accomplish it by talking to him. Don't allow your dog to stray too far from you in the streets, and make him obedient to call. Don't allow him to cross the street unless he Is near to you for fear of being run over by an auto or street car. Don't be afraid to give your dog plenty of exercise. Don't feed him around the table. Don't give him chicken bones; they are dangerous. Don't ignore his instincts and think that he can live on starchy foods alone. Don't entertain the false notion that meat produces fits or mange. Don't give him a taste for candies. Don't worry over every little thing that appears to be out of the or- dinary in your dog. There are days when you don't feel well, and don't feel like playing. It's the same with a dog. Don't treat your dogs as so many animals that have to be fed and housed. We cannot understand keeping dogs under such conditions. Han- dle your dogs, make friends with them, because they are dogs. A man ' need never be ashamed of loving a dog. Don't lose your temper and kick a dog. The dog is apt to consider . the kicking leg an enemy, and treat it as such, and this may be uncom- fortable for you. Besides, a kick in passion may do an irreparable injury to the dog. If a whip must be used, a thin rawhide is the best; it hurts and breaks no bones, and you can control it better than a whiplash. 276 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. Don't wait until disease has gotten so secure a hold that it cannot be quickly eradicated. This is a weakness characteristic of a great many dog- owners. The "go off and eat grass and get well" theory doesn't hold good in this latter day civilization. Don't administer liquids to dogs while the mouth is open. Close the mouth tightly, hold the hand over his nose and lower jaw, and by making a funnel of the side lips, keep the head erect and pour the liquid through the teeth. Don't because you can trust your house pet not to abuse your confi- dence, keep him shut up in the house for hours. Some dogs are so refined in their habits that they will suffer agonies rather than take advantage of your thoughtfulness. Don't forget that where a number of dogs are kept, regularity and system should prevail. Insist that your kennelman have a certain hour for exercising, grooming, and especially feeding. Slip-shod methods are just as productive of non-success in dog-breeding as in any other business undertaking. With regular hours for different work, the dogs become set- tled in their habits, are not continually restless and on the move; con- sequently there is little noise and the neighbors are not disturbed. Don't, if you can help it, cook the kennel food in the same building occupied by the dogs. The aroma of cooking unsettles them and the spirit of anxious expectancy is often the forerunner of a fight, when a number of dogs are kept in one compartment. Don't feed cornmeal day in and day out, as many kennelmen unfor- tunately do. It is handy to cook and cheap, you say. It may be, but its constant use heats the blood, lowers the system and eczema and mange too often follow as a natural consequence. Never feed it in hot weather. Don't allow your very young puppies to run with the old dogs. Be- sides the danger from injury in romping with heavier dogs there is also a danger of the older dogs snapping at the youngsters and giving them a nip that will scare the life out of them for a week or longer. Don't, in your eagerness to show off the gameness of some two or three months old terrier enter him at a rat. A nip from the rodent, that he does not understand, will sometimes ruin a very young dog for future ratting. Don't throw a dog into water because he does not plunge in at com- mand. If you do, ten to one you will spoil his future as a water dog. Coax him to walk in by degrees, but better still, if possible, let him see some other dog swim out for the stick; if not an inveterate coward he will soon enter into the fun of the thing — and the water. Don't feed liver and lights to your dogs if you value their health. Such Btuff may fill an aching void for the time being, but there is no flesh pro- ducing substance in it. The liver will disarrange the internals and you may as well feed so much sponge as the leathery indigestible lights. Don't forget the bones. Dogs kept in kennels have not as a rule a very merry time of it at best and a good big knuckle bone will serve to while away an odd hour or two, besides cleaning the teeth and inducing a healthy flow of saliva. But use discretion, avoiding chicken bones and small bones. Don't throw in one bone for two dogs. Reason obvious. . Neither give a bone to bitches suckling or running with puppies. The maternal instinct is strong but the mother while gnawing the bone is not to be depended upon and may give a too venturesome and confiding puppy an ugly bite. Don't provide high sleeping benches for bitches in whelp, the lower the better so that they may be no danger of incurring a strain which may cause a miscarriage. Have the entrance to the brood bitch kennel as wide as possible and easy of access, with no corners to run round, when running in or out in a hurry the bitch is liable to bump herself. And above all things avoid swinging doors. Don't neglect ventilation in the kennels. Arrange this so that there is no direct draught on the dogs. A good plan is to have openings under tie eaves of the kennel and inside nail a board the size of the aperture USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING. DOGS. 27T but slanting inwards at an angle of 45 degrees so that the air is direct©* to the top of the kennel first. Don't feed raw meat to a dog suffering from diarrhea. Feed starchy foods. A good stiff gruel of flour and water will often stop the complaint in early stages. Don't think that your duty is done when you have provided kennel runs for your dogs. This fact will not always answer the exercising pur- pose. The dogs will probably lie around and take a toddle now and again, but no real exercise. Therefore they should be given opportunity for a scamper at least once a day. This is always feasible in the country and really no dogs should be kept in the city, except household pets, and these can always be given a run when you walk, if you care to take the trouble ■ — some people don't, and the dogs suffer. Don't allow the kennel yards to become littered with manure. Besides being unhealthy and a source of worms, the manure is a saleable commo- dity and should be regularly taken up, dried and sold to the morocco leather dressers. The bones that accumulate around a kennel can also be disposed of. All these little things count in the conduct of a large kennel. Don't feed scraps from the table without carefully looking them over before doing so. In the dog's eagerness after dainties he may swallow a hidden fish bone, chicken bone splinter or other pointed substance that may cause trouble afterwards. Also don't feed highly seasoned messes that come from the table just because they are handy and the dog will eat them. It will cost you less in the long run to feed sound wholesome dog food. Don't use the whip for every little mistake your dog makes. Dogs are not like lions in a cage, to be subdued by a show of force. Talk to the dog and prove to him by action and expression that he has done wrong. A dog follows his master's expression more than you may think he does. Kind- ness and firmness accomplish more than the lash. Don't lose your temper and kick a dog. The dog is apt to consider the kicking leg an enemy and treat it as such, and this may be uncomforta- ble for you. Besides a kick in passion may do an irreparable injury to the dog. If a whip must be used a thin rawhide is the best; it hurts and breaks no bones, and you can control it better than a whip lash. Don't enter a kennel without speaking to the dogs, and especially so at night, or in the dark. The magic power of the voice may save you from a bite. When meeting a strange dog always greet him kindly. A soft word will answer better than your boot. And don't thrink from a dog that jumps or runs toward you, this is an exhibition of fear that he is apt to take advan- tage of, and above all things don't run away from him. Don't fail to frequently examine your dog's mouth. Teeth may become loose, and thereby interfere with his eating; tartar may form when sloppy, unsuitable food is given, and especially in the case of pet dogs, lap dogs, and so forth, that are fed not wisely but too well, and this should be either brushed away or scraped. Small slivers of bone are apt to run in between the gum and tooth; if not removed, the gum will ulcerate and become very painful, preventing the dog from eating, and while in this off-of-feed con- dition, you may deem it proper to doctor him for some imaginary illness when a little examination would show you the cause of the trouble. Don't exercise your dog after a meal, nor yet just before it. How would you like to run half a mile after a good feed? Don't feed sloppy food to the dogs; that soft of stuff may be all right to fill pigs with, but a dog's grinders were made for something more substantial. If you are a father you will know it is customary to give teething babies something to use their gums on. Puppies are four-legged babies, and they require similar treatment when teething. Chuck the puppy a bone or a biscuit and that will help the grinders along. Don't think because you know what you wish your dog to do that he can grasp your meaning off-hand and without effort on your part; dogs are intelligent, but they are not clairvoyants. Don't buy drugs in great quantities as they become inert or greatly deteriorate by keeping, especially when exposed to light and air; therefor*, 278 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. buy such drugs only in quantities for immediate use, and from those whose judgment in selection and whose fair dealing can be depended on. Don't treat your dogs as simply so many animals that have to be fed and housed. We can not understand keeping dogs under such conditions. Handle your dogs, make friends with them, because they are dogs. A man need never be ashamed of loving a dog. The dog's whole-souled look of affection will repay the man of feeling for all the trouble he may put himself to in this direction, and it will last longer than a good many other loves. If you want to win prizes with them, accustom them to being handled and to show themselves off to the best advantage. Nothing makes an owner look so foolish as to try and show a dog that does not know him or that is "contrary." A good puppy is often placed back because he is taken into the ring without any thought of preparation for the trying ordeal. Accustom your dogs to being shown up in collar and chain. They soon grasp the idea, for there is vanity in dogs as well as human beings. Don't wash puppies when they are very young, unless they happen to get into some filth that can not be removed when dry by the brush. Don't wash puppies until at least six months old. Grooming and "elbow grease" every day will improve the coat and do more good than washing. Don't let your pup, or pups, get into the habit of barking violently, a most tiresome trick, coming of idleness and not enough out door exer- cise, and also sometimes hereditary. Scold them, and keep a switch in the corner, for a nip now and then; they will soon pay attention. BREEDING breeding — This article was written by Harry W. Lacy, Kennel Editor of American Fancier, especially for this book: "Young bitches often exhibit symptoms of an inclination to breed at the age of eight or nine months, but it is not advisable to do so until they have come in season the second time. Remarks we made last week against the advisability of resorting to the services of too young a sire apply with even greater force when a youthful bitch is under consideration. Stunted and puny puppies are almost sure to be produced from a young mother; and the injury they are likely to do her constitution is incalculable. It must be borne in mind that for weeks before birth her system is sorely taxed to provide them with nourishment, and after the shock of labor is gone through there is further strain upon her until they are weaned. "The first symptoms afforded by a bitch that she is likely to be soon ready for breeding purposes is a desire on her part to romp and play with any dog she meets. This may possibly arise from merely exuberance of spirits, but it is always well to keep a close eye upon her as soon as any undue levity is observed in her conduct. It is most desirable to use every endeavor to keep the animal away from all risk of being got at by strange dogs; and when the matter is placed beyond doubt all former precautions should be doubled if possible. It must be remembered that there is not only a great risk of dogs getting into the place where the bitch is confined, but that she will probably be equally anxious to escape from her kennel, and some bitches have performed almost incredible feats in their endeavors to do so. "She should, if at a distance, be sent off to the kennels where the dog is standing, a day or two after the earlier symptoms appear, so as to be In time. If despatched by public conveyance, it is imperative that she be securely confined in a box or basket from which escape is impossible. AH breeders should be impressed with the absolute necessity of exercising USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 27ft the greatest vigilance when they have bitches by them under such cir- cumstances. For several days after the bitch has visited the dog, the pre- cautions for isolating her must not be relaxed, or all her owner's hopes may be marred by her forming a connection with a stranger. "Having selected a proper mate for his bitch, and sent her to him, all anxiety is removed from an owner's mind for some time at least; for dur- ing the first period of going with young, the bitch will require no special diet or attention. During the latter portion of her pregnancy she is pecu- liarly liable to chills; every care should therefore be taken to avoid any risk of her taking cold, and all washing operations and violent exercise must then be suspended. Our own experience has taught us that in the majority of instances it is almost impossible to tell whether or no the bitch is in whelp until the third or fourth week, and on many occasions we have known breeders to be in doubt for a much longer period. "A week or so before the date on which it is expected that she will whelp, the bitch should be installed in the quarters in which it is arrang- ed the interesting event is to take place. The reason for this is that dogs must get used to a kennel before they will make themselves at home in it, and this feeling is peculiarly perceptible in the case of a bitch who has recently whelped; for in many cases she will try and carry her puppies (greatly to the damage of the latter) back to her old quarters rather than let them remain in a kennel to which she is unaccustomed. Having got her reconciled to her change of abode, the locale of which should, if possible, be away from the other dogs, so as to let her have more quiet (but warmth and absence of draught are even more essential than isolation in most cases), and supposing the time of her whelping to be near at hand, it is desirable that the bitch should be provided with a diet of a more strength- ening character than that which she has been in the habit of receiving. This need not consist entirely of meat or other heating foods, which can only tend to increase her discomfort in parturition, but may be made of scraps well boiled or stewed, with the addition of bread, meal, or rice, which in their turn will absorb the gravy or soup and form, in conjunction with the scraps, when the latter are chopped up, a meal which is both whole- some and nutritious. A few days before the puppies make their appear- ance a considerable change is usually perceptible in the bitch; the pres- ence of milk can be detected and a considerable enlargement of the stomach takes place. Her behavior, too, clearly indicates that she is uneasy and in pain, and in many instances the appetite entirely fails, and the bowels become confined. In the latter case a mild purgative of either castor, linseed or sweet oil must be given. The first-named remedy is sometimes too powerful an aperient for a bitch in such a condition, as, in the more delicate breeds especially, it is apt to cause severe straining, which would injure the puppies. Before resorting, therefore, to castor oil, an experimen- tal dose of either linseed or sweet oil might be administered, which, if it succeeds in acting on the bowels, will have satisfactorily accomplished the owner's object; and as the lubricating power of all three oils is essentially the same, the internal organs will be equally benefited by either medi- cine." It is a good plan to treat the brood bitch thoroughly for worms be- fore being put to the dog; and stud dogs should be periodically treated for these pests. 280 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. FEEDING PUPPIES Special article written by Harry W. Lacy, Editor American Fancier: If you were to ask the average dog owner, who in the course of a year raises some puppies, what he gives the puppies when weaning, the answer would, nine times out of ten, be — "Oh, milk and bread, or milk and oat- meal — something of that sort." Yes, its just this something of that sort that does the mischief, and to add to the trouble he adds water to the milk, usually. Right off the mother the pups are asked at the most critical time of their lives to make good on a diet that contains much less nourish- ment than they enjoyed with mamma. We have always been interested in the common sense methods as advised by "Great Dane" in his "Dog Feeding Up-To-Date," and especially in his insistence on a familiar topic of advice in these columns whenever we get the chance and that is — feed the bitch. The proper feeding of puppies is at first effected by properly feeding the dam; and it must needs be commenced before their birth, since, if the bearing mother be underfed, improperly sheltered, over-exercised or other- Wise neglected or overtaxed, the puppies naturally come into the world starvelings, seldom capable of repaying their breeder for the cost and worry of rearing them. If, however, the bitch be kept in vigorous condi- tion with good food and good care, her puppies are ensured an ample store of nourishment whereon to draw for the development of their bodies and constitutions. They are born strong and healthy, and soon commence to suck; and with even fairly good management there is little risk of losing such puppies. Weaklings, on the other hand, frequently require consider- able care and attention to raise. The great points at the outset are, of course, to get them to suck within an hour or so of birth and to prevent their being chilled, so that such as are too feeble to reach and pull at the teats must be helped as often as seems needful, some of the milk being pressed out with the finger and thumb. Nothing is so well calculated to make very young puppies grow strongly and vigorously as a bountiful sup- ply of their mother's milk, which, in general, supplies everything required for their proper nourishment. Any bitch capable of nursing her puppies should be made to do so. To needlessly deny a puppy its dam's milk and to substitute artificial means of subsistence is to deprive it of the best safe- guard of its life. The first milk or colostrum is laxative in character, and so assists in removing from their bodies waste matters accumulated before birth. Hence, if for some reason or other they do not get this first milk, it is wise to give each a drop or two of castor oil in warm milk instead. Where it becomes necessary to substitute cow's milk for that of the dam, it is, as previously explained, essential to make it as similar as pos- sible in composition and richness to the milk the puppies would naturally obtain. It is apparent that the milk of the bitch is about thrice as rich in protein and fat as is that of the cow, so that, if we propose to use cow's milk for puppies, we must correspondingly increase its protein and fat. This can be approximately done by heating the milk until some two- thirds of its volume have evaporated. No nutrients are lost, only water being given off, so that the result is a concentrated milk thrice as rich as ordinary cow's milk. A better and more convenient plan is to add to each half-pint of fresh cow's milk two to two-and-a-half ounces of full-cream milk^powder. The concentrated milk-food thus prepared is approximately thrice as strong as cow's milk, so that puppies only require one-third as much of it. At 3 weeks old the following quantities are appropriate: Toy puppies, 1 teaspoonful; Fox-terrier-sized puppies, 1 desertspoonful; .Collie-sized puppies, g teaspoonfuls; and largest-breed puppies, a table- It affords me great pleas- ure to now call your at- tention to MY ADVERTISERS Selected from the leading kennels only — and quite important to dog-interested people to know where a dog of the right sort can be bought at a right price — from the right people. Every one of them will treat you square. Most of them I know personally, and in ordering, you can, with perfect safety, send the money with the order (not necessary to have the dog sent on approval), for they will ship you a dog ex- actly as represented — that will please and satisfy you. Read the Advertisements! THEY ARE ALSO VALUABLE. With a feeling of pride, I now introduce to your notice the most select lot of advertisements that have ever appeared in a Dog Book. AL. G. EBERHART PLEASE MENTION THIS BOOK WHEN WRITING. CANINE BOARDING HOUSE DOGS TAKEN TO BOARD TERMS — $7 to $10 per month, according to size — PAYABLE IN ADVANCE. NO DOGS TAKEN SUFFERING WITH DISTEMPER OR MANGE. CAN TAKE ECZEMA CASES TO TREAT AT FIFTY CENTS PER DAY — MEDICINES CHARGED EXTRA. OUR Kennels are beautifully located on the Little Miami River, at Camp Dennison, Ohio, sixteen miles out of Cincinnati, forty minutes' ride on the Penna. R. R. We have large grounds, seventeen individual yards, en- closed by high and secure fences. Sleeping kennel in each of these yards, the yards opening to a large paddock, where all dogs are given exercise three times a day. Plenty of shade and grass, and everything conducive to health, happiness and safety of dogs. While same care is given each dog as if it were our own, yet we assume no responsibility as to accidents. Dogs are at owner's risk. VISITORS ALWAYS WELCOME, BUT PREFER VISITS BY APPOINTMENT. THE EBERHART KENNELS, camp dennison, ohio. CINCINNATI OFFICE. 23 EAST SIXTH STREET. 282 USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. spoonful. These quantities may be given 5 or 6 times a day in addition to the mother's milk, and may be slowly increased as necessary. For breeds in which small size is essential, as, for instance, in terriers and toys, concentrated puppy foods must be used with caution and not continued longer than is necessary, lest they make the dogs grow too big. Improved nourishment necessarily implies increased bodily development; and one of the most successful and observant breeders of Scottish terriers recently told the writer that he has had to altogether abandon the use of such foods because they made his dogs grow too big. Little puppies fed upon plain cow's milk have either to go short of proper nourishment or to overtax their stomachs by loading them with about thrice the bulk of food for which they have natural capacity. Viewed from this standpoint, the plight of poor little wretches fed on diluted cow's milk is evil indeed. We have all of us seen puppies grudgingly al- lowed just enough nourishment to live upon until they are able to take care of themselves — poor, sunken-eyed, half-starved little creatures that do somehow manage to pull through on bread and watered milk, on which they gorge themselves when they get a chance until it is a marvel they do not burst and thus end their miserable existence. No wonder that such of them as struggle through to maturity make small, pot-bellied dogs. It is the worst possible policy to breed good puppies and then starve them. SEPERATING DOGS WHEN FIGHTING One dog supposed to have a hold on the other dog, generally the case, so I give this as a sample. A pail of water will in many cases make the dog let go — for a minute or less, but in some breeds, as Bull terriers, or Airedale terriers, this will not work. You might, if strong enough in the hand, choke the one dog off, but in cases of Bull terriers I have failed, if you had a bottle of amonia right there, this would make any dog let go — for a minute or so only, if it was a Bull terrier. What will make any dog let go is a lit cigar held to his nose, or, a burning match may do if no lit cigar is handy. The trouble now comes up, after separated, that one or both dogs will get right at it again, and here is where you must have a level head, and your nerve, to prevent this. One person alone will have a contract on his hands, but if there happens to be some other sensible man there to assist, each one of you grab a dog by his collar, or, if no collar on dog, then by the nap of his neck, and hold your dog back. I have separated dogs alone, by holding each one apart at arms length, but it's quite a job. A dog can't bite you, if you keep your head, not afraid or scared yourself, when you have a firm hold on his collar, on top of his neck, or by the nap of his neck, on top. Neither dog in the fight is wanting to bite you — it's the other dog he is after. Now see In this book, "Bites," as to how to treat them if dog is bitten, or you might be. DISFECTANTS A disinfectant is important to health and absolutely necessary in ev- ery kennel. All bench shows use some disinfectant of which there are USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS. 283 several good ones. Carbolic Acid has been used by many, but great care must be taken to use it, properly diluted and not too strong, or harm will come from it. Chloride of Lime is also used, but to some people it is very offensive because of its odor, and if used should be properly mixed. A much safer and better plan is to use one that is especially and pro- perly compounded for the purpose, by experts — then you are safe. Standard Disinfectant, made by The Standard Disinfectant Co., of Perry, Ohio, (see their advertisement), is one that I have used for years, exclusively, and it is, in my opinion, as good as any — and my choice, having tried several others, that are also good. I prefer to use it in its crude form, properly diluted with water. For particulars see their advertisement in this book. Standard Disinfectant is a good thing, safe, reliable and a perfect disinfectant. You will be satisfied and pleased from the results of using it. It is very reasonable in price, this quite an important item as well. In having my kennels scrubbed, I use it pretty strong in the hot water. Table for Mixing Standard Oil of Tar. % Teaspoonful Standard Oil of Tar in Tumbler of Water is 1 part to 100. 1 Teaspoonful in Pint of Water is 1 to 100. % Pint to 6 Gallons of Water is 1 to 100. 1 Pint to 12 Gallons of Water is 1 to 100. It will be easy to get other proportions by using this as a base. DRUGS Acetic Acid.— '-Used in making Mindererous' spirit, which enters into fever mixture, distemper mixture, etc.; also as a cooling lotion, combined with sal ammoniac and spirit, for application to swellings and bruises, to reduce local inflammation where the skin is not broken. Cooling Lotion. — The following is the formula: Take sal ammoniac 4 ounces, strong acetic acid 10 ounces, boiling water 10 ounces, methylated spirit 2 ounces. Powder the sal ammoniac and dissolve in the boiling water and acetic acid, and add the spirit. Before applying the lotion it must be mixed with eight or ten parts of cold water, and the part kept constantly wetted with it until heat, pain and other inflammatory symptoms have disappeared. N. B. — An intermittent use of such lotions by causing reaction often does more harm than good. Gallic Acid — Astringent and Stypic. — Given in diabetes and for in- ternal hemorrhage. Dose, three to eight grains. The following powders are a useful form in which to administer it. Styptic Powders. — Take gallic acid 3 grains, powdered alum 4 grains, powdered opium % grain, to make one powder. One to be given twice or thrice" a day. Aconite — The common name of this plant is monk's-hood, and both the leaves and root are used in medicine. The liniment of aconite of the British Pharmacopoeia often proves of great value in assuaging the pangs of rheumatism, and the tincture added to the distemper mixture is, in cases where there is nervous excitement, of great value. It must always be given with great caution. The dose of the tincture is from one-half to three drops, according to age and size. j Aio©e.»-Thi8 is one of the safest and best purgatives for the dog, the 284 DRUGS. dose is from ten grains up to twenty grains, the dog requiring a propor- tionately much larger dose of this drug than man; it is, however, always advisable to try the effects of the smaller dose first, as the lives of many dogs are sacrificed to a rash boldness in administering overdoses. Aloes are generally given in conjunction with other purgatives, as jalap, rhubarb, etc., and they enter into the composition of most aperient pills made for the dog. The following is a useful mild aperient bolus: Mild Aperient Bolus. — Take aloes socotrine, iy 2 drams; powdered jalap, 2 scruples; powdered ginger, 1 scruple; Castile soap, y% dram; make into twelve balls. Dose, one or two. Or for small dogs, into 24 pills. Alum. — Astringent; dose four to eight grains, given in diabetes and internal hemmorrhage (see Acid, gallic). Alum is also given in cases of obstinate diarrhea, in conjunction with opium, and it may be advanta- geously given in such cases as a clyster, dissolved in gruel. Burnt alum is a very mild caustic applied to fungus growths. Ammonia, Aromatic Spirits of (Spirit of Sal Volatile). — A diffusible stimulant and antacid. It is useful in colic, and is given in cases of de- pression of the vital powers. The dose is from ten drops to a teaspoonful. It must always be largely diluted before it is given. Ammonia, Muriate. — Sal ammoniac. For uses see Acetic acid. Ammonia, Solution gf Acetate of (Mindererus' Spirit). — Given in febrile and inflammatory disorders, distemper, pneumonia, etc. The following mix- ture for distemper which may be given in any case where feverishness or inflammation is present: Distemper Mixture. — Take chlorate of potash 2 drams, sweet spirit of nitre 2 drams, Mindererus' spirit 1 ounce, tincture of henbane 2 drams, wa- ter sufficient to make 4 ounces. Dose, from one-half to three teaspoonfuls three or four times a day. Ammonia, Strong Liquid. — This is used as a blister to the dog (see Blisters). Diluted with three parts of distilled water, it forms the spirit of hartshorn of the shops, which, with other articles, is used as a liniment for sprains, bruises, rheumatism, etc. Liniment for Sprains. — Equal parts of spirit of hartshorn, turpentine, rape oil, and laudanum, make a generally useful liniment for the above purposes. If in a glass-stoppered bottle it will not be impaired by keeping. Antimonial Powder (True James' Powder). — This is given as a febri- fuge and diaphoretic in doses of from four to six grains; it is preferred to tartar emetic, as not being so likely to excite the dog's stomach. It is by some relied on as a cure for distemper. Antimony, Tartarated (Tartar Emetic). — This, as its name implies, is an emetic. On the dog's stomach it acts very quickly; but, indeed, vomiting appears to be quite a natural act in the dog, and no doubt it is attended with beneficial results when he is his own doctor and applies to his natural physic, the couch or dog grass; but this habit in the dog has been used to his injury, and the use of emetics shamefully abused, and from being treat- ed as a panacea for all dog ills, has done much harm. Emetics are, however, of use, and it is not bad practice to give one on the first appearance of dis- temper or jaundice, and in cases of poisoning they are our sheet anchor. The dose of tartar emetic, as an emetic, is from one to three grains given dissolved in warm water, and the dog freely drenched with it. It is also used as a febrifuge in doses of one-eighth of a grain to half a grain; but for DRUGS. 285 this purpose the James's Powder, another preparation of antimony, is to be preferred. Arnica, Tincture of. — This is applied externally as a stimulant in sprains, bruises and rheumatic lameness ,and also for dispersing tumors. It should be used as a lotion diluted with from ten to twenty parts of cold water. Arsenic, Fowler's Solution of. — This is, I believe, the only way in which arsenic is given to the dog. It is an alterative, and, as such, is of great value in some cases of mange and other obstinate skin diseases. The dose is from two to eight drops. It should always be given on a full stom- ach, and it must be withheld for a week or so if it has produced redness of the eyes, running of watery fluid from the nose, and a loathing of food. I generally give it with a tonic to prevent this last result. Give each dose in a teaspoonful of tincture of gentian or Peruvian bark, immediately after a meal. Belladonna Deadly nightshade. This is a narcotic and sedative of very powerful action, and, like aconite, must be used with great caution. The tincture is the most useful preparation of it. Dose, from two to six drops. Bonzoin, Tincture of (Friar's Balsam). — An excellent application to cuts, tears, bites, &c. It should be applied as soon as the parts are cleaned from dirt, &c, to stop bleeding and protect the exposed surface. The tinc- ture is also given in chronic coughs. Dose, ten or fifteen drops on sugar. Bismuth — The subnitrate of bismuth has a soothing effect in. stomach disorders, and in long-continued diarrhea is often most beneficial. Three to ten grains of it may in such cases be given twice a day in chalk mixture. Bromide of Potassium — This is very useful in epileptic fits and to allay excitement. It may be given in doses of from five to twenty grains, and where a dog is subject to fits, continued for two or three weeks. It has, however, a debilitating effect. Buckthorn (Syrup of). — This is a time-honored purgative for the dog, and a very good one, although it has got into disrepute, as I believe, through the rubbish that is too commonly sold under the name; or since it became obsolete as a medicine for man druggists have been less careful in its preparation. The syrup should be made from the fresh juice of the berries of buckthorn (Rhamous catharticus), a shrub or tree which grows plenti- fully in our woods and hedges. The average dose is one tablespoonful, and to prevent griping a teaspoonful of syrup of white poppies should be added. Calomel Acts as an emetic and purgative; it is at all times an uncertain and unsafe medicine for the dog. Youatt and others say it should never be given in larger doses than three grains. Country farriers and others often give it in much larger doses — indeed, by the rule of thumb — ■ and the consequence is the death or utter ruin of many valuable dogs. As a remedy in the yellows and other affections of the liver, podophyllin, or "vegetable calomel," is safer and more effective. Camphor — Calmative and antispasmodic. May be given in cases of excitement and restlessness, and also in severe diarrhea. The dose is from two to eight grains. Carren Oil A most useful application to scalds or burns. It is made by mixing equal parts of raw linseed oil and lime water. 286 DRUGS. "' Castor Oil Purgative. Dose, from a teaspoonful to a wineglassful. It is a mistake to give very large doses, as such are useless, the excess being carried off by the bowels. Cayenne Pepper — Stimulant and stomachic. Chalk, prepared — Anticid in its effects; it is particularly useful in diarrhea, for which it may be given alone if nothing better can be conven- iently had. Dose, as much as will lie on a quarter. Chloral Hydrate — Antispasmodic and soporific. May be given in cases of fits, also when the dog suffers great pain. Dose, from five to twenty grains, according to size of dog, and the result it is desired to produce. The larger dose would induce sleep. Chloroform. — Principally used as an anoesthetic in painful operations. It also acts as an anodyne and antispasmodic in colic, etc. As such it is generally given in the form of chloric ether, the dose of which is from ten to thirty drops in water or other fluid. Uhinchoiia, or Peruvian Bark. — This is a well known medicine, and, as a tonic, suits the dog admirably. It is especially useful after distemper and other lowering diseases, and works wonders in getting dogs into high- class condition for shows or work. The following preparation of the bark is most convenient, being in concentrated form, and will keep good for years: Concentrated Bark Tonic. — Take concentrated decoction of yellow cin- chona bark, compound tincture of bark, equal parts; dose, one to two tea- sponfuls twice daily in water, as a drench. Cod .Liver Oil. — This well known medicine is given to the dog in cases of debility and emaciation supervening inflammatory attacks, and to arrest the progress of chronic diseases of the respiratory organs. It is also given in scrofulous affections. Excellent for ricketty and weakly dogs; but it is injurious to give it to strong growing pups of the larger breeds, as it makes fat, and the pups get so heavy the legs often give way. Dose, from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful. Large doses are a mistake. Copper, Sulphate of (Blue Stone). — Externally applied, it is a mild caustic; internally administered, astringent and tonic; dose from % to 2 grains, but is apt to cause vomiting. In applying it to proud flesh in sores, choose a crystal with a smooth surface, which wet and rub on the part, or scrape a little into fine powder and dust over the sore. Cream of Tartar — A cooling laxative and diuretic. Dose, ten to twenty grains, given daily. Dandelion. — Given in jaundice, and other liver affections. The extract is the most convenient form, or the decoction made as follows may be given: Fresh dandelion roots, sliced, 6 ounces; water, iy 2 pints; boil slowly down to half a pint. Dose, half a wineglass. Digitalis — See Foxglove. Idpsom Salts — Purgative. Dose, one to three drams. A convenient form for giving this salts is the ordinary black draught of the shops. DRUGS. " 287 Ergot of Kye Useful in cases of protracted parturition. Five to fif- teen grains may be given in a little warm water with a teaspoonful of brandy added. The dose repeated in an hour if needed. Ether, Spirit of Nitrous (Sweet Spirit of Nitre). — Diaphoretic and diuretic. It is given in distemper, fevers, influenza, etc. COMFORTABLE WINTER QUARTERS. Dogs that are not allowed to sleep in your house, must have a com- fortable house or kennel provided for them, where they can sleep warm enough in it at night, or, in very cold weather, to go into during the day. At my kennels, I have twenty-four individual yards, (aside from three large exercising yards), and in each individual yard a small kennel prepared as follows: I buy an empty upright piano box, set it on a foundation ten inches from the ground, put a second floor in, between which is tar paper; put a door in front, three feet high, two wide, to only close part way, so dog can get in. Then I make a slanting roof and cover this and front of box with tin, or some composition roofing, the sides and back being bat- tened where the boards join together, so no cold air gets in. Now, be- fore hanging the door, build inside an inner sleeping compartment on one side, boarded on top and half of the front, a board six inches high across bottom to keep the straw in, and for winter use tack some carpet over the front of this sleeping box you have made, and also several thicknesses of covering the opening made for the door, fastened only at the top, the dog will push through this covering and into his bedroom, and with plenty of straw for bedding, will sleep warm and comfortable. If you have two dogs that are congenial, it is all the better that they sleep together. Small dogs with short coats and toy dogs, are kept in an L of my house, with a stove that never goes out 'till spring comes, for such dogs require a heated place in cold weather. Dogs such as collies, setters, pointers, and large dogs can stand it all right outdoors, if the place is provided as I have de- scribed. The carpet on the front of the inner room should have a part or corner of it cut off, or fastened back, making a small opening for air. Have your kennel facing south so as to get the great benefit of the sun. For kennel locations choose ground that lies high and dries quickly. Heavy soil on which water rests instead of draining away freely is condu- cive to all sorts of troubles. However expensive a kennel, it can never be suitable for dogs unless perfectly dry, for dampness causes much sick- ness. If there is one thing more than another a dog cannot stand, it is dampness. He requires plenty of water to drink, but none in his bed. It is the underpart of his body that has the least protection. 288 MEDICAL TERMS. MEDICAL TERMS. (This classification of drugs and explanations is given because the terms are used to avoid verbosity). Alteratives. — Medicines which, if given in small and repeated doses gradually bring about a healthy state of the system without seriously aug- menting the secretions — such as arsenic and its preparations, iodide of po- tassium, etc. Anesthetics. — Chloroform, or ether, drugs that deprive of sensation or feeling. t ..^^ Anodynes. — Morphine or cocaine, drugs that assuage pain. Antiseptics. — Medicines that resist or check putrefaction, such as chlor- ide of lime, carbolic acid, soda, creosote, etc. Antispasmodics. — Medicine that overcomes inordinate muscular action, from their sedative effects allaying spasms and convulsions, as chloroform or opium. Aperients. — See Cathartics. Astringents. — Drugs used internally that contract muscular fiber and check diarrhea, hemorrhage and diabetes, used extensively to stop bleeding and diminish discharge from wounds, such as alum, gallic acid, etc. Blisters. — Agents used as counter irritants for internal inflammation. Strong liquid ammonia being a good and quick blister for a dog; it may be applied on a cloth or sponge held on the part to be blistered for about ten minutes. Spirits of turpentine is also good; wring a piece of red flannel out of hot water, sprinkle with turpentine, and apply to the part. Pure olive oil should afterward be applied to blistered parts. Cordials. — Medicines that increase strength, stimulate the stomach and animate the spirits. Cordials are often given to hunting dogs after a hard day's work in the field. Here is a good one to use. Cordiane Ball. — Take powdered cardamon seeds 1 dram, oil of carra- ways 10 drops, oil of cloves 5 drops, powdered gum acacia % dram, made into a paste with syrup; dose for a greyhound or hunting dogs is one- fourth of this, given wrapped in an ounce of lean mutton. Carminatives. — Medicines that expel wind, such as oil of peppermint, ginger, etc. Cathartics, Purgatives, Aperients. — Medicines to cause discharges, cleansing stomach and bowels. Laxatives and mild aperients. Caustics. — Agents that destroy or decompose parts to which they are applied, used for proud flesh in wounds, to destroy warts, to sear the parts and prevent absorption of virus in case of bites, etc., etc. Nitrate of silver, carbolic acid, nitric acid or the hot iron are the most active. Demulcents. — Agents to soften effecs of irritants, by sheathing the surface, such as glycerine, gum acacia, and are used as a vehicle in giving such irritating articles as turpentine, oil of male fern, and many others. Diaphoretics. — Medicines to produce sweating, as sweet spirits of nitre. Diuxetics, — Remedies which increase discharge of urine, such as nitrate of potash, Venice turpentine, balsam copabia, etc. MEDICAL TERMS. 289 Emetics. — Agents used to produce vomiting. A dog's stomach is very easily acted on. Numerous medicines are used. Ipecacuanha wine is easy in its effects. Emetic tartar and common salt are useful emetics. . Dogs eat grass to produce vomiting. Emollients. — Agents that soften or relax the parts applied to, such as poultices, camphorated oil, olive oil and fomentations. Laxatives. — See Cathartics. Narcotics. — Medicines to produce sleep and relieve pain. Morphine is used mostly for the dog. Purgatives. — See Cathartics. Stimulants. — Medicine and liquors used to produce immediate but tem- porary increase of strength; given in collapse, exhaustion, or in excessive debility, when fever is not present. Sherry wine clear, whisky with a little water added, or good port wine, are good. Stomachics and Tonics. — Medicines to excite and strengthen the stom- ach. Tonics are especially good in cases of debility following fever, dis- temper and lowering diseases; mostly used for the dog are, quinine, iron, gentian, rhubarb ,etc. There are several condition pills now put up, espe- cially for dogs. Sergeants' Condition Pills, Glover's Tonic and Dent's Condition Pills are all good. Dr. Glover's is in liquid form. Either of these will do the work. Vermifuge. — Medicines to destroy or expel worms. Clysters or Enemas. — These agents are mostly in the liquid form, and are administered for various purposes, as the softening and removal of hardened fceces, the allaying of spasm or colic in the bowels, the destruction of worms, for checking diarrhea, and more rarely for nourishing the body. The forms for clysters will be found in the parts of the work treating of these ailments in which they are used. The means of injecting the clyster is usually the common bladder and pipe sold by druggists at 2 5 cents each, or what is greatly better, an india rubber bottle enema, which gives the operator greater power, and is itself less trouble, being self-filling. 290 TERMS RELATING TO DOGS. DEFINITION OP TERMS RELATING TO DOGS. Apple Headed. — Skull round, instead of flat, on top. Babbler. — A dog that gives too much tongue when working. Beefy. — Big, beefy hindquarters. Belton. — (Blue and lemon) spotted or flecked, and applied to Laverick Setters. Blaze. — A white mark or stripe up the face. Blood. — A dog which shows high breeding. Breeching. — The tan-colored hairs on the back of the thighs of a Black-and-tan Terrier. Broken-up Face. — Refers more particularly to the face of the Bulldog or Toy Spaniel, and comprises the receding nose, or lay-back, deep stop, and wrinkle. Burr. — The inside of the ears. Brisket. — That part of the body in front of the cnest, or the chest. Brush. — The long fringe of hair on under side of tail of long-haired dogs. Butterfly Nose. — A nose with spotted nostrils. Button-Ear. — An ear which falls over in front, concealing the mside, as in Fox Terrier. Cat-footed. — A short, round foot, with knuckles high and well devel- oped. A desirable foot for all running dogs. Chaps or Chops. — The pendulous lips of the bulldog; the foreface of a bulldog. Character. — Pronounced indications of the breed to which the dog be- longs; also, marked indications of intelligence. Cheeky. — When the cheek bumps are strongly defined; thick in cheek. Chest. — The chest of a dog must not be confounded with the brisket; the breast or chest extends between the fore-legs from the brisket to the belly. Cloddy or Cobby. — Thick-set, short-coupled, and low in stature. Cobby. — Well ribbed up, short and compact in build. Comb-fringe. — The long hair that hangs down from the tail of the setter. Condition. — In good health, flesh and coat. Couplings. — The length of space between the tops or tne shoulder blades and the tops of the hip joints. The term denotes the proportionate length of the dog, such as long and short in the couplings. Cow-Hocked. — The hocks turning inwards. Crank-tail — Same as above. Crest. — The upper ridge or portion of the dog's neck. Generally ap- plied to sporting dogs. TERMS RELATING TO DOGS. 291 Crook-tail. — The crooked tail of a Bulldog. Cushion. — Fullness in the top lips. Deep in Brisket. — Deep in chest; deep from withers to point where chest and brisket meet. Dew-Claws. — Extra claws, found on the inside of the lower portion of the hind-legs of many dogs. Dewlap. — Pendulous skin under the throat. Dish-Faced. — Having the nose higher at the tip than at the stop. Some- times seen in Pointers. Dome. — High in skull, showing an elevation between the ears. Dudley Nose. — A flesh-colored nose. Elbow. — The joint at the top of the forearm. Elbows Out. — Where the elbow joints turn perceptibly out from the body, as in Bulldogs or Dachshunds. Expression. — The expression of a dog is largely but not wholly deter- mined by the size, angular position, and degree of prominence of the eye. For instance, in a St. Bernard the eye is small, somewhat sunken, showing a little haw. This gives a dignified and rather benevolent expression. "Collie expression" depends largely on the angle at which eyes are set to each other. Faking. — Disguising a dog's coat or appearance by dyeing, staining, clipping, or otherwise interfering with the dog's natural formation. Feather. — The fringe or hair on the back of the legs of some breeds, notably Setters, Spaniels and Collies. Fiddle-Headed. — A long, gaunt, wolfish head, as seen in some Mastiffs. Flag. — The tail, with its long hair, as seen in some Setters and New- foundlands. Flat-Sided. — Flat in ribs; opposite of well-ribbed up. Flews. — The overhanging lips of the upper jaw. The term chiefly ap- plied to hounds or other deep mouthed dogs. Forearm. — The principal part of the fore-leg, extending from elbow to pastern. Frill. — The fringe or hair on the chest of dogs, especially as in the Collie. Frog-Face or Down-Face. — Nose not receding. Grizzle. — A bluish-gray color. Hare-foot. — A long, narrow foot, carried forward. The opposite of Cat-foot. Harlequin. — Pied, mottled, or patchy in color. Haw. — The red, inside eyelid, as shown in the Bloodhound and St. Bernard. Height. — The height of a dog is measured at the shoulder. The proper method is to stand the dog on level ground, close by a wall, and to lay a flat rule across his shoulders horizontally so as to touch the wall; then measure to the point touched by the rule. Some people "tape" from the 292 TERMS RELATING TO DOGS. center between the shoulders to the ground, but this plan obviously adds to the real height of the dog, and is practically a fraud. Hocks. — The hock-joints. Huckle-bones. — Tops of the hip-joints. The space between these and the tops of the shoulders is called the couplings. Kink-Tail. — A tail with a single break or kink in it. Knee. — The joint attaching the fore-pastern and forearm. Leather. — The skin. Especially applied to the ear. Leggy. — Too long in leg compared with tlie body. Stilted. Lengthy. — Denoting length of body, as in the Skye or St. Bernard. Level. — Applied to jaws and teeth where they meet in front, and means that they meet evenly. Loins. — That part of the anatomy of the dog between the last rib and hindquarters. Long in Flank. — Long in back and loins. Lippy. — Overhanging lips, where such ought not to exist. Lumber. — Superfluous flesh. Mane. — The feather, or long fine hair on shoulders of Collies, New- foundlands and some other breeds. Mane. — The profuse hair on top of neck. Mask. — The dark muzzle of a Mastiff or Pug. Merle. — A bluish-gray color splashed with black. Monkey-faced. — See* Dish-faced. Occiput. — The prominent bone at the back or top of the skull. Particu- larly prominent in Bloodhounds. Out at Shoulders. — Shoulders set on outside, as in the Bulldog, Out at Elbows. — Elbows turning out. Overshot. — The upper teeth projecting beyond the lower. This fault in excess makes a dog pig-jawed. Pad. — The under portion or sole of the foot. Pastern. — The lowest section of the leg below the knee or hock junc- tion with foot. Peaked. — Dome of skull high, as in Bloodhounds and Irish Setters. Penciling. — The black marks or streaks divided by tan on the toes of a Black-and-tan Terrier. Pig-Jawed. — The upper jaw longer than the lower. Piley. — A mixture of hard and soft hair in the coat, the short coat being woolly. Plume. — The tail of a Pomeranian. Prick Ear. — (See Tulip-ear.) An erect ear; not turned down or folded. TERMS RELATING TO DOGS. 293 Quality. — The evidence of good blood and breeding, and of desirable characteristics as shown in the general appearance of the dog. Racy. — Slight in build and leggy, as in the Greyhound or Whippet. Ring-Tailed. — Where the tail at the end curls into a ring. Roach Back or Arched Loins. — The arched or wheel formation of loin, as in a Greyhound, Dachshund, Dandie Dinmont Terrier, and Bulldog. Rose-Ear.— An ear of which the tip turns backward and downward; that is, it folds at the back, and the tip laps over outward, showing part of the inside of the ear. Second Thighs. — The muscular development between stifle-joint and hock. Semi-Prick Ear. — An erect ear of which the end falls over forward. Septum. — The division between the nostrils. Shelly. — Too narrow and light in body. Short-Coupled. — Short in back and loins. Shoulder. — The top of the shoulder blade, the point at which the height of a dog is measured. Sickle-Tail. — A tail forming a semi-circle, like a sickle. Skull. — Formed by the frontal, parietal and occipital bones — the brain box. Snipey. — Where the muzzle is long, narrow or peaked. Snipy. — Too pointed in muzzle. Splay-Foot. — The foot spread out flat. Stern. — The region of the tail. Stifle. — The point next the buttock — the hip joint. Stop.^The hollow or indentation between the skull and nasal bone, below the <£yes. This feature is strongly developed in Bulldogs. Style. — Showy, spirited, or gay demeanor. Throatiness. — Excess of loose skin at the throat, dewlap. In some breeds this is a fault. Thumb Marks. — The round, black spots on the fore-legs of a Black- and-tan Terrier. Tight-Lipped. — Having no flew. Timber. — Bone. Tongue. — -The voice. Top-Knot. — The hair on the top of the head, as in the Irish Water Spaniel, Dandie Dinmont, and Bedlington Terrier. Trace. — The dark mark down the back of a Pug. Tricolor. — Black, tan and white. Tucked-up. — Tucked-up loin, as in the Greyhound. T^lip Ea^.-— Partly pricked, or fipright, and drooping at the tip. 294 TERMS RELATING TO DOGS. , Twist. — The curled tail of a Pug. Undershot. — The lower jaw projecting beyond the upper one. Undershot. — The lower incisor teeth projecting beyond the upper, as in Bulldogs. The under jaw protruding beyond the upper jaw. Upright Shoulders. — Shoulders that are set in an upright, instead of an oblique position; not laid back. "Varmint Expression. — As in the eye of the Fox Terrier, which is free from Haw, is not sunken, is round but rather small than large, and set horizontally, not obliquely, giving a keen, rather "cussed" look. Vent. — The tan-colored hair below root of tail. Wall-Eye. — A blue mottled eye. Weedy. — A dog that is leggy, thin, and out of condition. Wheaten. — Pale yellowish color. s -* Wrinkle. — Loose-folding skin over the skull. HOUNDS and HUNTING To Owners and Breeders of Hounds and Lovers of the Chase Here we are. An old magazine with a new name, under new and live management, published in the interests of Hounds, Hound owners, breeders and lovers. A department devoted to "Fox Hounds and Fox Hunting," "Coon Hounds and Coon Hunting," and last, but by no means least, for "Bea- gle Hounds and Hare Hunting." The only publication in America of any moment that devotes space in every issue to the "Little Hounds" and appeals to all breeders and lovers for news and information of interest to the breed. Subscription $1.00 per year. Address Hounds and Hunting, Decatur, III. A PLEA FOR THE DOG. 295 SENATOR VEST'S FAMOUS PLEA OX BEHALF OF THE DOG. One of the most beautiful tributes ever paid to the dog came from the lips of George Graham Vest, the distinguished Missourian, who has re- cently retired to private life, after a long and honorable career in the United States Senate. Senator Vest has long been recognized as a most forceful and eloquent orator, and his speeches have been widely read for many years. It is doubtful, however, if in all his distinguished career he has ever made a speech which has been more widely quoted or universally appreciated than his impromptu remarks on the dog, made many years ago in a country town. Shortly after the Civil War, when he was a young man, just beginning the practice of law, and without the fame which has since become his, he happened to be in attendance upon a term of the Johnson County Circuit Court, at Warrensburg, Missouri. A suit for damages for the killing of a dog was on the docket, and was in due time called. Voluminous evidence was introduced to show that the defendant had shot the dog in malice, while other evidence tended to show the dog had attacked the man. There were attorneys engaged in this case, who, if not then, have since become famous. Senator Vest was not employed in the case, but was invited to speak for the plaintiff. The occasion is said to have been a rare one, and his speech has been highly praised, and has gone the rounds of the press for thirty years. "Gentlemen of the Jury — The best friend a man has in the world may turn against him, and become his enemy. His son or daughter that he has reared with loving care may prove ungrateful. Those who are nearest and dearest to us, those whom we trust with our happiness and our good name, may become traitors to their faith. The money that a man has he may lose. It flies away from him, perhaps when he needs it most. A man's reputation may be sacrificed in a moment of ill-considered action. The people who are prone to fall on their knees to do us honor when success is with us, may be the first to throw the stone of malice when failure settles its cloud upon our heads. "The one absolutely unselfish friend that man can have in this selfish world, the one that never deserts him, the one that never proves ungrate- ful or treacherous, is his dog. A man's dog stands by him in prosperity and in poverty, in health and in sickness. He will sleep on the cold ground, where the wintry winds blow and the snow drives fiercely, if only he may be near his master's side. He will kiss the hand that has no food to offer; he will lick the wounds and sores that come in encounter with the rough- ness of the world. He guards the sleep of his pauper master as if he were a prince. When all other friends desert he remains. When riches take wings, and reputation falls to pieces, he is as constant in his love as the sun in its journeys through the heavens. "If fortune drives the master forth an outcast in the world, friendless and homeless, the faithful dog asks no higher privilege than that of accom- panying him, to guard him against danger, to fight against his enemies. And when the last scene of all comes, and death takes his master in its embrace and his body is laid away in the cold ground, no matter if all other friends pursue their way, there by the graveside will the noble dog be found, his head between his paws, his eyes sad, but open in alert watch- fulness, faithful and true even in death." The effect of the speech is said to have held the court room audience spellbound, and when Senator Vest concluded his remarks there was not a dry eye in the house. The case was submitted to the jury without fur- ther argument, and in a very few moments they returned a verdict in favor of the owner of the dog for the full amount sued for. The case finally reached the Supreme Court, where it was affirmed, and is set forth ift detail in the 50th Missouri Reports. THE END. DEVOTED EXCLUSIVELY TO THE DOG FANCY MONTHLY, $1.00 A YEAR THE DOG FANCIER Best Keirnel Advertising Medium in America. Established in 1891. The oldest, most popular and most prosperous kennel publication in America. Advertisers get excellent results and the rates are very low. Covers the entire United States and Canada. If he is interested in dogs, you are pretty sure to reach him through THE DOG FANCIER. Write us for sample copy (free) and for advertising rates. EUGENE GLASS, Publisher, Battle Creek Michigan We are publishers of "THE COCKER SPANIEL," the only book on the breed printed; price, paper, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00. Also "THE SPORTING BULL TERRIER," cloth, $1.00. PEDIGREE BLANKS — Five generation, 15 cents per dozen, $1.25 per 100, postpaid. Send all orders to THE DOG FANCIER EUGENE GLASS, PUBLISHER, BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN. IF YOU WANT to BUY a OF ANY BREED, and will send your order to me, I will furnish it from any of the first-class Ken- nels whose advertisement you see in this book. AT THEIR PRICE Dog will be exactly as represented, and you will be satisfied. AL. G. EBERHART CAMP DENNISON, OHIO. ENGLISH PUGS FAWNS and BLACKS We are the OLDEST Pug breeders in Amer- ica, started in them forty years ago, and at the present time, there are only two o:her Pug breeders in the United States, boih of them hav- ing either bought from us, or bred to our stud dogs. Pugs Are Scarce and in great demand. We ran m i n-imily furnish puppies Fawns $25 to $35 Blacks*$35 to, $50 DOGS AT STUD — both'colors — FEE $10 and $15 A Wonderfully Intelligent and Loving Pet is a Pug a Great House Dog THE EBERHART KENNELS CAMP DENNISON, OHIO Glover's Imperial Dog Remedies The Pioneer American Dog Medicines The Result of 35 Years Experience in the Treatment of Sick Dogs COMPLETE LIST Distemper Remedy . . .$1 00 Condition Pills $0 50 Eye Lotion 50 Mange Remedy 50 Vermifuge 50 Canker Wash 50 Blood Purifier 50 Tonic 50 Fit Remedy 50 Cough Mixture 50 Kennel and Stable Soap 25 Sore Foot Remedy. . . . Liniment Diarrhoea Remedy . . . Tapeworm Capsules . . . Worm Capsules Comp. Sulphur Pills.. Liver Pills Digestive Pills Black Tongue Remedy. 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 SOLD BY DRUGGISTS AND SPORTING GOODS DEALERS Refuse Worthless Substitutes Book on "Dog Diseases and How to Feed" free on application to H. CLAY GLOVER. V. S. (Veterinarian to the Westminster Kennel Club for 25 Years) 118 WEST Slst STREET, NEW YORK CITY SERGEANT'S DOG REMEDIES Originated by Polk Miller, for more than 50 years a lover of dogs and a man possessed with practical ideas about treating dogs. Sergeant's Dog Remedies are recognized by dog men and kennel owners throughout the United States as the veiyoest on uc market. Veterinary surgeons in pre- scribing them say — "It is no experiment to use these goods, for they have become the standard in our practice." Sergeant's Dog Remedies are sold by leading druggists and pet shops throughout the United States, or they- will be sent to any address upon receipt of price. SERGEANTS Condition Pills, large, per box $1.00 Condition Pills, small, per box 50 Sure Shot Capsules, per box 50 Arsenic and Iron Pills, per box 50 Sure Shot Liquid, per bottle 50 Cough Remedy 50 Tapeworm Remedy 50 Liquid Remedy for Ordinary Mange, per bottle 50 Flea Remedy, per bottle 25 Rheumatic Pills, per box 50 Carbolic-Tar Soap, per cake 25 Canker Wash, per bottle 50 Black Tongue Remedy 50 Eye Remedy * 50 Distemper Remedy 1.00 FREE ADVICE DEPARTMENT Our Free Advice Department, in charge of experts, is at the immediate command of every user of Sergeant's Dog Reme- dies, holding our Free Advice Coupon. Every inquiry relative to the health of a dog takes precedence with us over all other correspondence. To demonstrate to you the value of our Free Advice Department, we extend to you, as the owner of this book, sending the coupon attached, the privilege of asking for one letter of advice relative to your dog's health. In making such inquiry, de- scribe fully every symptom and enclose stamp for reply. POLK MILLER DRUG CO., Inc. Dept. 401, RICHMOND, VA. This Coupon good for one let- ter of advice and copy of Polk Mil- ler Dog Book FREE CHIHUAHUA'S OF BREEDING Mrs. CHAS. DOBBS Audubon Park LOUISVILLE KENTUCKY Edgemere, Pine Lake Ave., KAY ESS KENNELS (Registered) BLACK and TAN TOY TERRIERS For twelve years have exhibit- ed and sold more of this breed than any other kennel. Have five dogs at stud, from 4^ to 6 pounds. Mrs. K. SOPHIE WATERS, Prop. LA PORTE. IND. CHAMPION DOG BISCUIT Champion Puppy Meal |THE BALANCED RATION SEND FOR SAMPLE AND BOOKLET. Champion Animal Food Co* ST. PAUL, MINN. CHINESE CHOW CHOWS WE BREED AND IMPORT THEM — COLORS, BLACK AND RED. The most fashionable dog of the day. Chows are a peculiar dog, great thinkers, not much on the bark, not easy to get acquainted with, (except as puppies). Have a great brain, an exclusive sort. Shy of strangers, but when you get their confidence and win them over, you have secured a dog that will love his master or mistress to the limit, and not care much for anybody else. They are a grand watch dog and would protect you — be on duty when needed. WE HAVE AT STUD •'MIDNIGHT H," (black) Stud Fee, $25 "IMP OF DARKNESS," (black) Stud Fe«, $25 "CHING CHANG," (red) Stud Fee, $25 PUPPIES FROM $50 UP TO $100. The Eberhart Kennels CAMP DENNISON, OHIO. EBERHART'S DOG REMEDIES EYE LOTION By m 60c EBERHART'S TONIC PILLS Fifty Pills postpaid, 75c Hundred Pills, postpaid $1.50 Different from all others, containing no Arsenic or "dope." Work wonders in building up run down dogs. Always do good — never any harm or bad after effects. EBERHARTS SKIN CURE EIGHT OUNCE BOTTLE (go only by express) 60c A sure cure for ALL skin diseases in dogs. NON-POISONOUS. Instant death to Lice and Fleas. A DIFFERENT and BETTER remedy than any other made. A wonderful hair grower, and many barbers are using it on their human patrons' heads for skin troubles, and to promote hair growth. EBERHART'S TAPE WORM REMEDY by mail 50c The Best ever discovered, absolutely harmless, nothing like it EBERHARTS DOG SOAP SUPERIOR TO ALL! No other dog soap made is like it. Contains one ingredient — a secret — that makes it Different From All Others. Does not contain carbolic acid. Is NON- POISONOUS. Eberhart's Dog Soap is made from a purely vegetable compound. It contains no free alkali or other noxious ingredient, and is guaranteed to be perfectly harm- less to the coat, skin or eyes of man or beast. Any animal may lick the lather off without injury. It promotes free shedding of old hair, insuring a new healthy growth, and leaves the coat of the animal soft and sleek. KILLS LICE and FLEAS. Made as cleanly as if for human use, and for your own face or head, NOTHING IS FINER. Is a great hair grower. No hair tonic made is better. Cures dandruff or diseased scalp. I have had convincing proofs of the ill effects of carbolic acid and carbolic acid soaps on dogs, and have seen that the acid, even in the mild form of soap, will poison by ab- sorption through the skin, even when there is no abrasion. IS A BLACK SOAP, BUT JUST THE THING FOR WHITE DOGS. Quarter pound cake by mail 30c. One dozen by express $2.50 THE EBERHART KENNELS CAMP DENNISON, OHIO. A NATION'S DOG REMEDIES! VERM I LAX SUPREME DOG REMEDIES (DR. DELANEXS) USED for the sledge clogs of frozen Alaska and by breeders and one dog owners from Cape Cod to Golden Gate. Winners of the Gold Medal and Highest Award of Merit at the Panama-Pacific Inter- national Exposition. They're good. Try them "For Your Dog's Sake." Sold by Druggists. Pet Shops, Sporting Goods Stores or sent direct by Parcels Post. Blood Purifying Tablets $0.50 Cankered Ear Lotion 50 Chorea Tablets .50 Condition Tablets 50 Cough Syrup 50 Diarrhoea Tablets 50 Digestive Tablets 50 Distemper Remedy 1.00 Eye Lotion 50 Fever Tablets 50 Fit Tablets 50 Flea Powder 25 Germicide and Disinfectant... .50 Gum Set 50 Kidney Tablets 50 Laxative Tablets 50 Liniment 50 Mango Remedy (Special Stain- less) 1.00 Mange Remedy (Standard)... .50 Mouth Wash 50 Rheumatic Tablets 50 Shampoo (VENO) 50 Shampoo (Deodorizing) 50 Skin Cleanser (for large dogs .50 Skin Cleansing Cream (for toy dogs and puppies) 50 Soap (animal) 25 Soap (toy dog and puppy) 25 Tonic Tablets 50 VERM1LAX Supreme Worm Remedy 50 and $1.00 VERMILAX COMPANY, Inc., >5l FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK CITY WILBUR H. PURCELL THE SHOW MAN 29 BROADWAY, NEW YORK CITY, N. Y. 30 YEARS EXPERIENCE I Furnish everything for EXPERIENCE COUNTS. Your Show, Will Manage WRITE FOR TERMS. Your Show, and Furnish KENNEL AND HORSE SHOWS Catalogues, Ribbons, Medals, A SPECIALTY. Trophies, Etc. CHOW CHOWS EXCLUSIVELY MANDARIN OF BAINBRIDGE Stud Fee $50.00 GREENACRE HUMMER Stud Fee $30.00 Also MR. CHANG Stud Fee $25.00 PUPPIES AND GROWN STOCK FOR SALE For Further Particulars Address BAINBRIDGE KENNELS Queens Boulevard and Jefferson Street JAMAICA, N. Y. TAI MAIU KENNELS Miss JEAN ADAMS, Foochow, China, Owner Chow Chows exclusively from pedigreed prize winning stock Puppies from $50 to $100 Champion WU TING FANG II at Stud Fee $35.00 These kennels are in America, at CAMP DENNISON, OHIO, under the personal management of AL. G. EBERHART, where address all mail and send bitches for service. BEAGLES This kennel breeds from 100 to 200 yearly. Many Field Trial and Bench Show Winners among our Stud Dogs and Brood Bitches. The Best Only, is our motto. Dogs at public service. PUPPIES USUALLY FOR SALE F. B. ZIMMER, ('Debonair') Drawer E. GLOVERSVILLE, N. Y. POHL'S IRISH SETTERS Send $1.00 for Pohl's PortTo- lio on Irish Setters. Con- tains descrip- tion and his- tory of Irish Setters, also a Dutone print, 8x10 for fram- ing, of Ch. Drug Law and Ch. Pat- A-Belle. OTTO POHL, Fremont, Nebraska DEPARTMENT B BLACK and TAN TOY TERRIERS The miniature specimens with the proper heads and correct markings. We raise, sell and exhibit. Puppies from $25 up. CHAMPION "KAY ESS BILLY" AT STUD. FEE, $10. HOBART KRANER 61 WELSH AVE., COLUMBUS, OHIO. WHEN IN A HURRY FOR or VERMILAX FLEA POWDER, 30c. by mail. CLAYTON'S DISTEMPERINE OR VERMIFUGE SERGEANT'S SURE SHOT OR CONDITION PILLS STANDARD DISINFECTANT VERMILAX SUPREME WORM REMEDY, 60c. by mail SEND YOUR the C"BERHART ORDERS TO [.KENNELS CAMP DENNISON, OHIO THE CAERPHILLY AIREDALE KENNELS, ONTARIO PETER BAWDEN. Owner This kennel contains the import e d prize w in- ning: bitches, "SwaleLady," " Caerphil- ly Betty," "(iomerton II <• r o i ne," "Frankland's Wanda," "Caerphilly Milkmaid ," and the two import e d Stud Dogs, "Crack Per- former" and home bred ''Duke of _ Kent . " "CAERPHILLY MARVEL" Puppies from this kennel have made good in every part of the continent, both as workers, companions and show dogs. Special care is taken in rearing puppies, and nothing but high-class stock sent out. Our prices are usually lower than the big kennels, and the quality usually higher. IP YOU GET A CAERPHILLY AIREDALE, YOU GET THE BEST. a, ■ ^^Jr** r ~' '111 ^■k^r'-^J 12 M^'iii^-' m,m l"*!itl& Hi. A C V%*~: n V„ WORM EXPELLER 50c i-T. -^V. V^« LyanicI S PUPPY VERMIFUGE - 50c S DRIVE THE WORMS from YOUR DOG and PUPPY Distemper Tablets 50 Tonic Pills, for Toy and Puppies 50 Restorative Tablets, for dogs 50 Diarrhoea Tablets 50 Mange Remedy 50 Flea Powder, Dog Soap, each 25 Daniels' Shampoo Soap. 10 Imported Airedale Terrier Studholme Sultan A. K. C. 195025 E. K. C. 533 P Studholme Sultan is a "laster" himself and comes from a family of dogs and bitches that have been remarkable for their lasting qual- ities, and have never grown thick and coarse as so many strains of Airedales do. He is the shortest coupled, heaviest boned dog before the public, and is a proper type to use on small weedy bitches. Weight 50 pounds. C. C. LOOMIS Send for Stud Card. St. Matthews, Ky. Fee $15.00 Box E, 23. IF YOU WANT to BUY a OF ANY BREED, and will send your order to me, I will furnish it from any of the first-class Ken- nels whose advertisement you see in this book, AT THEIR PRICE Dog will be exactly as represented, and you will be satisfied. AL. G. EBERHART CAMP DENNISON, OHIO. \||gP= s In writing to any of these advertisers, please mention that you saw their Ad in this book. This will be doing a good turn to them--to yourself-and— "EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS." ENGLISH PUGS FAWNS and BLACKS We are the OLDEST Pug breeders in America, started in them forty years ago, ami at the present time, there are only two other Pug breeders in the United States, both of them having either bought from us, or bred to our stud dogs. Pugs Are Scarce and in great demand. We can occasionly furnish puppies Fawn's $25 to $35 Black's $35 to $50 DOGS AT STUD both colors FEE $10 and $15 A Wonderfully INTELLIGENT and Loving Pet is a Pug, a Great House Dog The Eberhart Kennels CAMP DENNISON, OHIO NO NO NO NO NO NO LeGallee Bros. Sanitary Shipping Crates The strong, sanitary, shipping crates known the world over for their spe- cial features, the water fountain and sanitary de- vice, protecting the health of the dog. EviElp! ir»'f>R " fS With all other manufac- SiiTSlBi *m fniwjB turers we have heen oblig- W"'m|B ™L ^~SA '"' '" r:lis '' prices flf- * t nfe>? JmSjL **~^ ^b teen per cent, hut this in- crease, with our former low prices, still enables us to offer the strongest, cheapest crate on the mar- ket. SIZES AND PRICES OF DOGGIES' SI*ECIAL SHIPPING (KATES. 1—22 in. long, 1 6in. wide, 18 in. high $ 9.20 2 — 28 in. long, 20 in. wide, 22 in. high 11.50 3 — 34 in. long, 24 in. wide, 26 in. high 12.65 4 — 38 in. long, 26 in. wide, 28 in. high 17.25 5—40 in. long, 26 in. wide, 32 in. high 18.40 6 — 46 in. long, 32 in wide, 36 in. high 24.15 Other sizes made to order. Height measurements from gable to floor. "Write for booklet. L E GALLEE BROS. OLIVE STREET, BRIDGEPORT, CONN. STANDARD DISINFECTANT A disinfectant of many years' standing, used continually by many of the best Kennels in this country, and has proven to be as good as any made, superior to some, for all purposes a disinfectant is needed. See what the author of this book says, who has used it for years, and is today using it. This was written in 1902. FROM AX. G. EBERHART, THE WELL KNOWN KENNEL MAN, OF CAMP DENNISON, OHIO: "I received the one gallon of your Standard Disinfectant ; have fully tried it, and it is all right. I have used all the different dis- infectants in my kennels, and it is enough to say I will now use yours. Please ship me live gallons." This alone should be enough to convince you, as everyone that knows Al. G. Eberhart has explicit confidence in what he says. We have other testimonials by the thousands, which space will not allow us to print here. STANDARD DISINFECTANT kills fleas and cures skin diseases on dogs; can be used around the stable, and is the best friend the house-keeper ever had. ROBERT S. WEST, Proprietor, STANDARD DISINFECTANT CO., PERRY, OHIO. The Eberhart Kennels, Camp Dennison, Ohio, will fill orders at $1.50 per gallon. It affords me great pleas- ure to now call your at- tention to MY ADVERTISERS Selected from the leading kennels only — and quite important to dog-interested people to know where a dog of the right sort can be bought at a right price — from the right people. Every one of them will treat you square. Most of them I know personally, and in ordering, you can, with perfect safety, send the money with the order (not necessary to have the dog sent on approval), for they will ship you a dog ex- actly as represented — that will please and satisfy you. Read the Advertisements! THEY ARE ALSO VALUABLE. With a feeling of pride, I now introduce to your notice the most select lot of advertisements that have ever appeared in a Dog Book. AL. G. EBEkHART PLEASE MENTION THIS BOOK WHEN WRITING. CANINE BOARDING HOUSE DOGS TAKEN TO BOARD TERMS — :$7 to $10 per month, according to size — PAYABLE IN ADVANCE. NO DOGS TAKEN SUFFERING WITH DISTEMPER OR MANGE. CAN TAKE ECZEMA CASES TO TREAT AT FIFTY CENTS PER DAY — MEDICINES CHARGED EXTRA. OUR Kennels are beautifully located on the Little Miami River, at Camp Dennison, Ohio, sixteen miles out of Cincinnati, forty minutes' ride on the Penna. R. R. We have large grounds, seventeen individual yards, en- closed by high and secure fences. Sleeping kennel in each of these yards, the yards opening to a large paddock, where all dogs are given exercise three times a day. Plenty of shade and grass, and everything conducive to health, happiness and safety of dogs. While same care is given each dog as if it were our own, yet we assume no responsibility as to accidents. Dogs are at owner's risk. VISITORS ALWAYS WELCOME, BUT PREFER VISITS BY APPOINTMENT. THE EBERHART KENNELS, camp dennison, ohio. CINCINNATI OFFICE. 2 3 EAST SIXTH STREET. POINTERS of Quality \ Royal Breeding "FISHELS FRANK" If you are looking for a Pointer, any age, I would be pleased to mail you my catalog and special list. Puppies any age, Broken dogs, Brood bitches — for sale. Write me your wants. IN THE STUD Champion "Comanche Frank," Champion "Amaud Ham," "Fishel's Rush," "Jankes Jingo Sam," "Raps Dandy." SHOOTING DOGS EDUCATED. U. R. FISHEL, box a-i hope, ind. CONNER'S READYT0 FEED C00KED D0G F00D IS THE BEST EXPERIENCE PROVES If you are not using it, why not try it? We guarantee satisfaction in every way. It is a great Food for puppies as well as old dogs. Write for booklet of testimonials. $3.75 per 100 lbs. $3.50 per 100 lbs. in 500 lb. lots. The Eberhart Kennels Use It, and Have For Years. M. J. CONNER 40 WATER ST., BATTLE CREEK, MICH. TABLE OF CONTENTS Assortment of Cures 205-215 Bench Shows 263-264 Breeding — By Harry W. Lacy £78-279 Breeding and Raising Puppies 228-238 Comfortable Winter Quarters 287 Definition of Terms Relating to Dogs 290-294 Diseases of Dogs Alphabetically Listed 9-161 Disinfectants 2S2-2S3 Distemper 162-181 Dog Papers of Record 238 Dogs as Children's Pets 264-265 Drugs and How to Use Them "83-287 Feeding the Dog 223-227 Feeding Puppies — By Harry W. Lacy 280-282 How to Wash a Dog 260-261 Hydrophobia 182-204 Introductory Remarks 5-8 Kennels Points and Don'ts 274-278 Kennel Suggestions 271-274 Medical Terms 288-289 Miscellaneous Information of Great Value 216-222 Pathos — Selection 265 Poms on Dogs — "Listed Wrong" 262 Poetry About Dogs 266-267 Senator Vest's Famous Plea on Behalf of the Dog 295 Separating Dogs When Fighting 282 Special Article on Puppies 257-258 The Author's Creed 3 The Author's Tribute to the Dog 26 7 The Dogless Boy 260 The Modern Kennel — How to Build 268-271 The Teeth of the Dog 254-256 Useful Information and Suggestions Regarding Dogs 239-253 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS American Fancier and Stock-Keeper (Weekly) 255 American Field Publishing Company (Weekly) 4 Bainbridge Kennels (Chow Chows) .' 300 Black and Tan Toy Terriers (Hans Hirsch) 145 C. C. Loomis (Airedales) 312 C. S. R. Blue Book Specialties 241 Champion Animal Food Company 30 4 Common Sense Remedy Company (Dog Medicines) 237 Conner's Ready to Feed Cooked Dog Food 303 Dogdom (Monthly Publication) 249 Dog World Publishing Company (Monthly Paper) 259 Dr. A. C. Daniels' Dog Remedies 311 Eberhart Dog Remedies 29S E. L. Pickhardt (Sterling Collie Kennels) 245 Elmview Kennels (German Shepherd Dogs) 127 Eczema Remedy Company 145 English Pugs (Eberhart Kennels) 301 F. H. Bennett Biscuit Company 171 F. B. Zimmer ("Debonair") Beagles 309 H. Clay Glover, V. S., (Glover Imperial Dog Remedies) 302 Hobart Kraner (Black and Tan Terriers) 310 Hounds and Hunting (Monthly) 294 If You Want to Buy a Dog (Eberhart) 296 Kay Ess Kennels (Mrs. K. Sophie Waters) Black and Tans 304 LeGalle Brothers (Sanitary Shipping Crates) 306 Massasoit Kennels (Boston Terriers 145 Melbourne Kennels (English Bulldogs) 133 Melita Kennels (Maltese Terriers) 151 Mrs. Charles Dobbs (Chihuahuas) 304 Mrs. Wilbur Kirkby Hitchcock (Old English Sheepdogs) 165 Pohl's Irish Setters (Otto Pohl) 310 Polk Miller Drug Company, Inc. (Sergeant's Dog Remedies) 303 Reilly Pug Kennels 157 Richwood Kennels (Walter McRoberts) Irish Setters 175 Standard Disinfectant Company 306 Sterling Collie Kennels (Mr. Edwin L. Pickhardt) 139 Tai Maiu Kennels of Chows (Miss Jean Adams) 309 The Caerphilly Airedale Kennels (Peter Bawden) 311 The Dog Fancier (Monthly) 296 The Eberhart Kennels (Chinese Chow Chows) 297 The Vermilax Company 299 Tokio Kennels (Mrs. L. E. Domler) Japanese Spaniels and Pekingese . . . .165 U. R. Fishel (Pointers of Quality) 308 Wilbur H. Purcell (The Show Man) 299 USE CLAYTON'S MANGE REMEDY FOR FALLING HAIR AND DANDRUFF FOR THE HUMAN SCALP CLAYTON'S CEOLINE DOG WASH It is a perfect disinfectant for any and all TO DISINFECT purposes for which a disinfectant is used. YOUR KENNEL SURE DEATH TO FLEAS. Clayton's KiLflea Powder, the Dog's Toilet Powder for Fleas Clayton's Distemperine and Clayton's Distemperine Tablets Prevent, as well as cure, and are the recognized Specific for Distemper. Clayton's Mange Remedy and Clayton's Skin Lotion Are guaranteed to cure all forms of Skin Disease, Destroys all Parasites, Promotes the growth of Hair, and Heals the Skin. FOR WASHING YOUR DOG A HINT TO . . THE WISE, Etc. Use Clayton's Method in rearing your puppies. Clayton Vermifuge and Clayton's Puppy Tonic is what you must have if you want to raise them all. CLAYTON'S VERMIFUGE Can be given to all dogs at any age after ten days old. Full List of Clayton's Remedies, with Price by Mail. By Mail 60c 60c 00c eoc Clayton's Mange Remedy... 50c Clayton's Skin Lotion 50c Clayton's Hair Tonic 50c Clayton's Distemperine 50c Clayton's Distemperine Tab- lets 50c Clayton's CONDITION PILLS with Pepsin 50c Clayton's Blood Purifying Pills 50c Clayton's Digestive Tablets 50c Clayton's Laxative Pills . . . 50c Clayton's Tape Worm Ex- peller 50c Clayton's Vermifuge 50c Clayton's Canker Lotion . . . 50c Clayton's Canker Lotion Tablets 50c Clayton's Eye Lotion 50c 50c 50c 50c 50c 50c 50c 60c 60c 50c 60c By Mall Clayton's Eye Lotion Tab- lets 50c 50c Clayton's Fit Remedy 50c 60c Clayton's Fit Remedy Tab- lets 50c 50c Clayton's Diarrhea Cure . . . 50c 60c Clayton's Diarrhea Remedy 50c 60c Clayton's Cough Remedy... 50c 60c Clayton's Sulphur Tablets.. 50c 50c Clayton's Puppy Tonic 50c 60c Clayton's Rheumatic Tab- lets 50c 50c Clayton's Goitre Remedy. $1.00 $1.00 Clayton's Ceoline Dog Wash 25c 35c Clayton's Ceoline Dog Soap 10c 15c Clayton's Shampoo 25c 30c Clayton's Crean Dog Soap.. 20c 25c Clayton's Kilflea Soap 25c 30c Clayton's Kilflea Powder... 25c 30c Olayton's Remedies are for sale by all Sporting Goods Houses, Drug Storey and Bird Stores. Send 2c stamp for Dr. Clayton's Treatise on the Dog, or ask your dealer for one. Manufactured by DR. GEO. W. CLAYTON, 1810 Wabash Ave., Chicago. The Eberhart Kennels, Camp Dennison, Ohio, Will Furnish the Above Remedies. Anything Pertaining to Dogs Can be Found in the Columns of FIELD *& AIM I> *& FANCY 14 Church St. New York City V A Weekly Journal of Record for the Gun, Field Trials & Dog Shows, & Dog Fanciers. THE leading weekly on canine sub- jects. Containing special and feature articles, and the best reports of the dog shows. $2.00 per year. Send for sample copies. The Field and Fancy Rook Department furnishes any Book for and about the Dog. FIELD AND FANCY 14-16 CHURCH STREET NEW YORK CITY The Field and Fancy Publishing Corporation is equipped to handle all Printing for Dog Fanciers Field and Fancy Print, New York City. Webster Family Library of Veterinary Medicine Cummings School ot Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University 200 Westboro Road