i-) 
 
 No. 26.] [Price 6d, 
 
 THE 
 
 HORSE BOOK 
 
 ENLARGED AND REVISED EDITION. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 THE ROYAL SOCIETY 
 
 FOR THE PREVENTION OF CRUELTY TO ANIMALS, 
 
 105, JERMYN ST., LONDON, S.W. 
 
Digitized by tine Internet Archive 
 
 in 2009 witii funding from 
 
 Boston Library Consortium IVIember Libraries 
 
 i 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/horsebookbeingsiOOroya 
 
THE 
 
 HORSE BOOK, 
 
 BEING 
 
 SIMPLE RULES FOR MANAGING, FEEDING, AND KEEPING A 
 
 HORSE HUMANELY AND ADVANTAGEOUSLY IN THE 
 
 STABLE AND ON THE ROAD, TO WHICH ARE ADDED A 
 
 FEW WORDS ON THE HORSE'S EYE, FOOT AND STOMACH ; 
 
 WITH HINTS ON DRAUGHT. 
 
 ENLARGED AND REVISED EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE ROYAL SOCIETY FOR THE PREVENTION 
 OF CRUELTY TO ANIMALS, I05, JERMYN ST., LONDON, S.W. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Accidents, Hints for 
 
 Bearing Reins, Injuries due to improper use 
 
 Body, Points about the Horse's 
 
 Draught, Hints on 
 
 Eye, The Horse's 
 
 Foot, Section of a Horse's 
 
 Food, Hints on 
 
 Grooming the Horse , 
 
 Hame-Rein, Injuries due to the improper use of 
 
 Harness, Care of ... 
 
 Hints on Draught 
 
 „ ,, Food 
 
 „ ,, Stables 
 
 ,, ,, TravelHng 
 
 Horse, The Points of a 
 
 Horse Maxims ..^. 
 
 Horse's Prayer, The 
 
 Horseshoeing 
 
 Slaughtering Horses Humanely . . . facing page 
 
 Stables, Hints on 
 
 Stomach, The 
 
 Travelling, Hints on 
 
 PAGES 
 
 31-32 
 
 54 
 
 4-5 
 
 50-59 
 42-46 
 
 33-3^ 
 27-30 
 48-49 
 66-69 
 65-69 
 
 50-59 
 27-30 
 
 6-13 
 14-26 
 
 4-5 
 
 60-64 
 
 70 
 
 38-42 
 
 70 
 
 6-13 
 
 46-47 
 
 14-26 
 
ABRIDGED PREFACE, 
 
 A large proportion of suffering is caused by- 
 owners and drivers who are ignorant of the capa- 
 bilities, habits and requirements of their animals, 
 or who want them to do more than they can. 
 Much injury is also caused by the indolence of 
 coachmen, who omit to give proper exercise to 
 animals. There are also many persons who 
 pamper and overfeed their animals, under the 
 impression that they are behaving kindly to 
 them, when, in reality, their conduct is the 
 cause of disease and pain. 
 
 It is to explain some of the simple wants of a 
 horse that this little book is pubHshed ; and it 
 has been written as simply as possible, so that 
 its contents may be read and remembered by 
 those who may not have an opportunity of 
 perusing a larger book. 
 
 Many persons have a distrust of book-rules, 
 priding themselves on being " practical persons." 
 To such it may be as well to observe, that there 
 is no rule here given that has not had the full 
 approval of practical persons. 
 
 [This book was revised by the late Mr. Fleming, Army Veterinary 
 Inspector, War Office, F.R.G.S., M.A.I. , President of the Central 
 Veterinary Medical Society ; President of the Royal College of 
 Veterinary Surgeons ; Author of " Horse-shoes and Horse-shoe- 
 ing," " Practical Horse-shoeing," etc. ; and has now been brought 
 thoroughly up to date.] 
 
THE POINTS OF A HORSE. 
 
 {For Explanation, see opposite.) 
 
THE POINTS OF THE HORSE. 
 
 Opposite the various " points " will be found the name of some 
 of the special diseases or injuries which occur at that particular spot. 
 THS HEAD. 
 
 1. The Poll Poll evil. 
 
 2, The Forelock or Forehead ... The best place to shoot a 
 
 horse. 
 
 3. The Ears... 
 
 The Bridge of the Nose 
 The Nostrils 
 
 The Upper Lip 
 The Lower Lip 
 The Chin. 
 The Jowl and Throat 
 
 } { 
 
 Injury to Cartilage by 
 Twitch or other violence. 
 
 Running at the Nose a 
 symptom of Glanders, 
 Strangles, Catarrh, etc. 
 
 Bit and Chain Curb injuries. 
 
 Glanders, Strangles, Catarrh, 
 etc. 
 
 10 
 
 12. 
 
 13- 
 14. 
 
 15- 
 16, 
 
 17- 
 18. 
 
 19. 
 
 THE NECK. 
 
 -10, The Crest and Mane 
 
 .. Mange and other Irritation 
 and Scurf. 
 
 II — II. The Lower border, Windpipe Tracheotomy, and Injury 
 
 by Bearing-Rein. 
 THE BODY. 
 The Withers Fistulous. 
 
 The DD^n^ } Saddle injuries, Sitfast. 
 
 The Croup Sores, Rub of Harness. 
 
 The Tail Docking injuries. 
 
 The Belly Direct injuries. 
 
 The Flank Ditto 
 
 The Sheath Warts and Soreness from 
 
 neglect to keep clean. 
 THE F021EI.EG, 
 
 The Shoulder Lameness. 
 
 The Chest and Point of Shoulder Collar injuries. 
 
 20. 
 21. 
 22. 
 23- 
 
 24. 
 
 25- 
 
 26. 
 
 27. 
 28. 
 29. 
 
 The Upper Arm 
 
 The Elbow 
 
 The Lower Forearm ... 
 
 The Knee 
 
 The Canon or Shank & Back 
 Tendon 
 
 The Fetlock 
 
 The Pastern 
 
 The Coronet 
 
 Flesh Wounds. 
 
 Capped Elbow and Girth 
 
 Galls. 
 Flesh Wounds. 
 Broken knees. Capped knees. 
 
 30. The Foot or Hoof 
 
 THE QUARTER 
 
 31. The Hip Joint ... 
 
 32. The Thigh 
 
 33. The Stifle Joint... 
 
 34. The Lower Thigh 
 
 35. The Hock Joint 
 
 ATJB 
 
 ... Sprains, Splints. 
 
 ... Sprains, Overshot Joint. 
 
 ... Ringbones. 
 
 ... Quittor, Treads, Overreach, 
 
 Side Bones at Back. 
 ... Laminitis, Navicular, Corns, 
 
 Thrush, Pricks, etc, 
 HIIO-D I.EG, 
 
 ... Lameness, infrequent. 
 
 ... Direct injuries, 
 
 ... Displacement of Patella. 
 
 ... Flesh Wounds. 
 
 ... Curbs, Sprains, Spavin, etc. 
 
 The names below the Hock are similar to those below the Knee. 
 
STABLE HINTS. 
 
 I. — Let your stable be well drained, and well 
 lighted. The vapours from a damp, putrid floor 
 will cause Rheumatism, Coughs, Colds, Grease, 
 Cracked Heels, and other ailments, while the 
 sudden change from darkness to light frequently 
 causes Blindness. 
 
 2. — Let the floor of the stall be quite flat and 
 level, with a gutter grating in the centre of the 
 stall sunk one inch, and a similar one at the back. 
 When the floor slopes at all, the litter should be 
 arranged thickly behind and thinly in front, so as 
 to produce a level surface as nearly as possible. 
 Standing lower behind than before is very painful 
 and causes Lameness by straining the ligaments 
 and tendons. 
 
 3. — Every stall should be at least six feet wide, 
 and nine feet long. This will enable the horse to 
 turn round without bruising himself, and to lie 
 down and stretch himself with comfort. The 
 more a horse lies down the longer his legs will 
 last. An ordinary stall converted into a loose-box 
 is a great improvement, as the horse can then 
 select his own position and relieve himself by 
 changing it when tired. In a stall he cannot well 
 do so, and being constantly tied with his head and 
 body in one direction is not only monotonous, but 
 
gives rise to Crib-biting, Weaving and other bad 
 habits. The best way to tie a horse in a stable 
 is to fasten a small wooden ball at the end of the 
 strap or rope, run the same through the ring at 
 head of stall, and then snap into the halter. Have 
 the strap or rope just long enough to allow the 
 horse to get his head well to the floor, with this 
 arrangement he can never get his foot on the 
 strap or rope as the weight of the ball will keep 
 it taut. 
 
 4. — Let each stall or box be separated by 
 moderately high partitions, not by swinging bars. 
 These will prevent the horses from injuring each 
 other, but not from seeing each other. Where 
 there is but one stall it may easily be converted 
 into a loose box by two horizontal bars let into 
 two holes in the pillar at one end, and the back 
 wall at the other. Where there are more boxes 
 than one made in a stable, they should be separ- 
 ated by partitions about five feet high, with 
 perpendicular bars on the top of them. 
 
 5. — Have the doorway sufficiently wide and 
 high. If it is too narrow, a horse on passing 
 through is liable to injure, and even fracture, the 
 haunch ; while if too low, he may strike the top 
 of his head, and thus give rise to the serious and 
 sometimes fatal injury commonly known as 
 " poll-evil." 
 
 6. — Slippery stones should not be laid down 
 at the entrance to the stable, as a horse is very 
 liable to fall upon them, 
 
8 
 
 7- — See that there are proper openings just 
 under the ceilings to permit the hot foul air to 
 escape, and suitable openings at the bottom of 
 the walls to admit fresh air. Impure air is bad 
 for man and beast, and predisposes to many 
 diseases. 
 
 8. — The temperature of a stable should be 
 that of a sitting-room or parlour : not over 6o 
 degrees in summer, nor under 50 degrees in 
 winter. Extremes of heat or cold are equally 
 bad. 
 
 9. — Do not keep hay over a partly-open 
 stable ceiling, as the steam and breath of the 
 animal make it unwholesome. 
 
 10. — If the hay must be kept over the horse, 
 the ceiling between should be of plaster. It will 
 in some measure prevent the vapours from pass- 
 ing up to the food. 
 
 II. — Have no opening into the manger from 
 the hay-loft. Dust is very often thrown into the 
 horse's eyes when fed in this way, and thus 
 Blindness is begun. The breath ascends directly 
 to the food through the opening, which, at the 
 same time, pours a continual draught down on 
 the horse's head ; thus producing Chills as well 
 as bad food. 
 
 12. — Do not have the hay-rack placed over 
 the horse's head. Hay-seeds and dust get into 
 the eyes and ears. 
 
13. — Never allow anyone to tease or tickle 
 your horse in the stable, as Vicious Habits are 
 thus easily induced. 
 
 14. — Never beat the horse when in the stable. 
 Kindness and gentle treatment in the stable will 
 not only prevent, but will in every case cure 
 viciousness. 
 
 15. — Let the horse's litter be dry and clean, 
 underneath as well as at top. Change the litter 
 partially in some parts, and entirely in others, 
 every morning ; and brush out and clean the 
 stall thoroughly. There is nothing so sweet, 
 clean and economical for the horse's bed as saw- 
 dust, when straw is too expensive. Tan-bark 
 and sawdust mixed makes a good bed. 
 
 16. — Make the bed deep and turn it over 
 frequently. A little bedding soon gets wet and 
 dirty, and it is not economical. Never allow 
 your horse to stand on hot fermenting manure, 
 as this will soften the hoof and bring on diseases 
 of the feet, nor allow the old litter to He under 
 the manger. The gases given off from it taint 
 the horse's food, and entering the nostrils irritate 
 them and the lungs, as well as the eyes. 
 
 17. — See that your horse is well cleaned every 
 morning, and on his return to the stable at night, 
 if he is jaded and tired, give him a thorough 
 grooming, rubbing his legs by hand. Remember 
 that to procure a good coat to your horse natur- 
 ally, use plenty of rubbing and brushing. 
 
10 
 
 " Elbow grease " opens the pores, softens the 
 skin, and promotes the animal's general health. 
 
 1 8. — When practicable, clean your horse out- 
 side his stable, because the dust fouls the crib, 
 and makes him loathe his food. 
 
 19. — Use the curry-comb lightly. If your 
 curry-comb is new, and the teeth are sharp, run 
 a file over them a few times, as otherwise you 
 will do more harm than good. Never use the 
 curry-comb on head, tail or mane, and during 
 the shedding season use only an old and dull 
 curry-comb. To fine-skinned horses it should 
 seldom be applied. 
 
 20. — Look well to your horse's feet, as he 
 may have picked up a nail or stone, and to stand 
 on either would produce Lameness. Let the 
 heels be well brushed out every night, for dirt, if 
 allowed to cake in, causes Grease and Sore Heels. 
 
 21. — When a horse is washed, never leave him 
 till he is rubbed quite dry and bandaged all 
 round. He will probably get a chill if neglected. 
 
 22. — When a horse comes oflE a journey, the 
 first thing is to walk him about till cool, if he is 
 brought in hot. This prevents him taking cold. 
 
 23. — The next thing is to groom him quite 
 dry ; first with a wisp of straw, and then with a 
 brush. This removes dust, dirt and sweat, and 
 allows time for the stomach to recover itself, and 
 
II 
 
 the appetite to return. It also refreshes the 
 animal. If he has been fasting long, give him a 
 small quantity of hay during grooming. 
 
 24. — When cool, dry and willing to eat, let 
 him have his corn ; and stand by while he con- 
 sumes it. He cannot do without his food and yet 
 is unable to complain if forgotten. 
 
 25. — Let the horse have some exercise every 
 day, otherwise he will be liable to disease. 
 
 26. — Look often at the animal's feet and legs. 
 Disease or wounds in those parts, if at all 
 neglected, soon become dangerous. 
 
 27. — You cannot be too particular about 
 having a blacksmith who understands his busi- 
 ness. A poor blacksmith may ruin your horse's 
 feet, and no feet, no horse. {See page 34 and 
 following.) 
 
 28. — The shoes should be removed or changed 
 every three or four weeks. The hoof is continu- 
 ally growing, and any fault in the foot or shoe 
 must be corrected without delay, or Lameness 
 will result. 
 
 29. — The frog and sole of the hoof should 
 never be pared, nor the heels opened. This robs 
 the foot of its natural protection, exposes it to 
 bruises and injuries of diflFercnt kinds, and leads 
 to contraction and disease. 
 
12 
 
 30. — The shoes should not be heavy. Heavy 
 shoes fatigue the Hmbs, and are worn out long 
 before they should be. 
 
 31. — The shoes ought to be the full size of the 
 hoof. Small shoes are injurious to the foot, and 
 lead to its being mutilated to fit the shoe. 
 
 32. — ^The outer crust of the hoof should never 
 be rasped. Rasping removes the smooth, hard 
 fibres, and makes the hoof brittle and deformed. 
 
 33. — No more nails than are absolutely neces- 
 sary should be employed to attach the shoe. 
 Nails weaken the hoof by breaking and splitting 
 its fibres. 
 
 34. — Never have your horse's heels closely 
 trimmed, nor the hair cut from the inside of his 
 ears. Trimming heels leads to inflammation, and 
 causes Sore Heels ; and the hair in the ear, as a 
 non-conductor of heat and cold, protects the 
 nerves, and prevents the entrance of dust and 
 particles of foreign matter, which would cause 
 deafness. 
 
 35. — Feed your horse well if you wish him to 
 work well, because his strength depends on his 
 feeding. {See " Hints on Feeding," p. 27.) 
 
 36. — Horses should not be fed directly they 
 leave work. The stomach is fatigued with exer- 
 cise, and they cannot relish or digest their food 
 till recovered. 
 
13 
 
 37- — Give the horse as much water as he will 
 drink, three times a day or oftener, especially 
 before feeding. A horse that is frequently 
 watered, will drink less on the whole than when 
 watered at long intervals, and will not do himself 
 any injury. Don't give him ice-cold water, it 
 may cause Colic. 
 
 38. — It is a good plan to have clean water 
 always accessible to the horse while in the stable. 
 
 39. — Do not urge the animal to drink water 
 which he refuses. It is probably hard and un- 
 wholesome. {See Rule 126.) 
 
 40. — Forbid drugs being administered to your 
 horse without your knowledge, especially nitre. 
 They are not needed to keep the animal in health, 
 and may do the greatest and most sudden 
 mischief. 
 
 41. — Going from a hot stable into the cold air 
 suddenly should be avoided, as also the contrary. 
 It produces Colds and violent Inflammations. 
 
 42. — Should your horse meet with accidental 
 injury, or become sick, consult a competent 
 Veterinary Surgeon at once. Do not permit an 
 incompetent person to administer drugs. 
 
H 
 
 TRAVELLINQ HINTS, 
 
 43. — Do not buy a horse that is too light for 
 your work. You will gain nothing by overload- 
 ing him, he will soon become unsound and worn 
 out — besides, it is cruel to take a mean advantage 
 of a willing animal. 
 
 44. — Do not overload or overdrive your horse. 
 If you exhaust him to-day, he will be unfit to 
 work to-morrow — overworking is false economy. 
 
 45. — In loading, consider the distance to be 
 travelled and the conditions of the road ; if you 
 forget these things you will cause unnecessary 
 distress and strain your horse If your load is 
 hard to draw, make frequent stops to give the 
 horse opportunity to recover his wind. 
 
 46. — Do not use any animal, either to ride or 
 drive, when sick or wounded. It is both in- 
 human and wasteful. 
 
 47. — Every horse should have two hours' 
 steady work each day ; but less is required for 
 an old than for a young one. Moderate exercise 
 excites perspiration and digestion, both of 
 which are necessary to health. It is also good for 
 the eyes and feet' 
 
 48. — Many horses suffer greatly from being 
 
always kept either in a state of idleness or over- 
 work. These two extremes, equally distant from 
 healthy escercise, are fertile causes of disease and 
 injuries of every kind, and should never be 
 allowed by those who have the care of animals. 
 
 49. — Keep your harness soft, dry and clean, 
 particularly the inside of the collar and saddle, as 
 the sweat, if allowed to dry in, will cause irrita- 
 tion, and produce galls. Harness can be cleaned 
 by scraping with a dull knife and rubbing with a 
 mixture of tallow and lard. Harness treated in 
 this way will last longer, look better, and by its 
 flexibility be more comfortable for the horse, 
 
 50. — If your harness chafes anywhere, pad it, 
 before starting, to give the place a chance to heal. 
 
 51. — If you arc riding, see that your saddle is 
 sufficiently large, and that it fits and bears 
 evenly on the horse's back. A small saddle, from 
 not resting on the proper parts, galls and pains 
 the horse cruelly. The saddle should not touch 
 the withers nor the ridge of the back, for these 
 are the parts most readily bruised, and most 
 difficult to restore to soundness. 
 
 52. — A saddle that needs to be girthed ex- 
 cessively tight should not be put on. A moderate 
 girthing will secure it, if it fits the animal in a 
 proper way. 
 
 S3. — ^Tight girthing is very painful and in- 
 jurious. It confines the movements of the ribs, 
 
i6 
 
 and thus prevents the full play of the lungs in 
 breathing. 
 
 54. — Never allow the stuffing of your saddle to 
 get hard and knotty by use. In that condition it 
 becomes' a source of great pain and makes the 
 animal kick and plunge when the rider mounts 
 it, or it damages the back. 
 
 55. — Sharp bits are worse than useless, in 
 ordinary cases. They make the mouth tender at 
 first, and afterwards hard and callous ; so that 
 the^horse then becomes unmanageable. 
 
 56. — The harness should be light, and fit easy 
 and comfortably, and the collar be sufficiently 
 large to admit of your hand at the bottom. 
 Heavy, cumbersome, bad-fitting harness is annoy- 
 ing to the horse, is so much dead weight, and 
 hampers his movement ; and a tight collar may 
 cause great distress, or even Apoplexy, in hot 
 weather or during severe exertion. 
 
 57. — As a rule the collar should fit well and 
 should sit as nearly as possible at a right angle to 
 the traces. This will enable the horse to draw 
 without any upward pressure on his wind-pipe 
 or any downward pressure on his neck. 
 
 58. — ^When from some defect in the animal, or 
 other cause, the bearing-rein is used, it must be 
 80 loose that the horse can have the free use of 
 his head when going up hill. In addition to the 
 easier position of the neck, a greater portion of 
 
17 
 
 the weight can be thrown into the collar, especi- 
 ally going up hill ; thus saving a great and 
 unnecessary expenditure of muscular power. 
 
 59. — There is an important difference be- 
 tween a tight bearing-rein, or hame-rein, and a 
 tightened rein in the driver's hand. The first is 
 injurious, and cannot help the horse, while the 
 latter is often useful. The latter is a steady 
 support to the animal's head, from a distinct 
 and intelligent source, the driver ; whereas the 
 former is only the horse's head fastened to his 
 own shoulders ! The bearing-rein or hame-rein 
 is inconsistent with the action of the horse's 
 head, as clearly shown by the fact that when a 
 horse falls the rein is generally broken. 
 
 60. — See that the wheels of the vehicle are 
 kept properly greased. This seemingly trivial 
 cause — often unattended to — gives the horse 
 much extra labour ; and has been calculated to 
 double his work ! 
 
 61. — When horses are long out at work, the 
 driver should always carry a nose-bag for each, 
 and proper food. They can thus get a little food 
 (without being unharnessed) during the inter- 
 vals of rest, which will render them less likely to 
 gorge themselves when in the stable. 
 
 62. — When practicable, let the horse have 
 something to rest the nose-bag on. This saves 
 him the necessity of tossing it up at every mouth- 
 ful ; and avoids the danger of straws and dust 
 getting into his eyes and nostrils. 
 
i8 
 
 63. — The nose-bag should be leather at bot- 
 tom, and of open, porous texture above. The 
 lower part will thus retain the food safely and 
 the horse can breathe easily through the upper 
 part. It is a good plan to have brass eyelet holes 
 in the bag, just below where the nostrils reach. 
 
 64. — A day or two before a long journey, give 
 liberal feeds. This extra nourishment will be 
 needed, and may prevent exhaustion. 
 
 65. — On the morning of starting feed earlier 
 than usual. Digestion and exertion cannot both 
 go on at the same time. Starting on a journey 
 with a full stonach is likely to bring on Staggers 
 or Fits. 
 
 66. — On the road, feed in small quantities 
 about every two hours. This will prevent ex- 
 haustion, yet not overload the animal's stomach. 
 Long fasts and then full feeds are the most certain 
 means you can use if you wish to bring on 
 Staggers, Megrims or Apoplexy. 
 
 67. — Let the horse when he stops have a 
 mouthful of wet hay, and a sip or two of water. 
 This assuages his thirst without injuring his wind. 
 
 68. — If he wishes to drink at a pond on a 
 journey, let him have a few swallows of water. 
 A little will allay his thirst, while taking exercise, 
 but a large draught will do harm. 
 
 69. — When your horse has quenched his thirst, 
 
^9 
 
 do not dash the remainder of the water in his 
 face; but wipe the animal's eyes and nostrils 
 with a wet sponge. The latter practice refreshes ; 
 the former terrifies. 
 
 70. — To make the horse suffer thirst is cruel 
 and dangerous. 
 
 71. — Lead the horse carefully through the 
 stable door on going out. Neglect of this is a 
 frequent source of injury. Accidents make the 
 animal frightened for a long time. 
 
 72. — If you are unacquainted with the animal, 
 caress and coax and humour him at starting. 
 Many horses go unsteady through fear of a 
 stranger, and not from vice. 
 
 73. — Accustom your horse to stand quite 
 still till you are mounted or seated. Then start 
 at a walk. You can then see if the horse is all 
 right, and will most likely avoid accidents. 
 
 74. — Go slowly the first and the last mile. 
 So that the horse can get warm and become cool 
 by degrees. 
 
 75. — Never attempt to go fast and far at the 
 same time. If you succeed, you will probably 
 have damaged your animal for ever. 
 
 76. — On a journey, you must not go faster 
 than a steady trot — not more than seven miles 
 an hour. The unevenness of the hard road 
 shakes and tries the horse's feet and legs. 
 
20 
 
 77- — Never urge the horse to useless spurts of 
 speed or other unnecessary exertion. He will 
 go much longer if permitted to go steadily. 
 
 78. — Never ride or drive fast in a town, for 
 you may endanger your own safety or that of 
 some one else. 
 
 79. — Never trust your horse to himself. Be 
 on your guard, and just feel his mouth with the 
 bit, lightly and steadily. You will thus prevent 
 many an accident through being on the alert. 
 
 80. — Never keep a dead pull on the rein, be- 
 cause it hardens the mouth. Don't pull his head 
 back when you are driving him, and don't pull 
 his head forward when you are leading him. 
 
 81. — Keep your hand low and steady and 
 gently feel the mouth with the bit. You thus 
 awaken the animal's attention, without irritating 
 or punishing him. 
 
 82. — Never leave the reins loose on the horse's 
 neck. He is very likely to stumble on missing 
 the support of your hand 
 
 83. — When you wish your horse to go slower, 
 say " Steady ! " — when you wish him to stop, 
 say "Woh ! " By always using the same words, 
 he will be led to moderate his pace as you wish, 
 without bit or whip being used. 
 
 84. — Never stop by pulling up sharply and 
 
21 
 
 suddenly, unless in case of necessity. It is very 
 painful, and requires immense exertion ; this 
 tries the chest and fore and hind legs of the horse 
 to a great and most injurious degree. 
 
 85. — Cheer your horse every now and then by 
 your voice and a pat or two. All animals under- 
 stand and answer to a kind word. 
 
 86.' — Do not keep on jerking the reins or 
 using the whip. If you do so the horse cannot 
 tell what you really mean when you use them 
 in earnest, and jerking the reins hardens the 
 mouth. 
 
 87. — Never use the whip if you can help it. 
 Rather tell him what you want him to do. If he 
 refuses, back him so as to distract him, and then 
 try again, because it is then available as a last 
 resource. 
 
 88. — Never whip a horse when he is frightened 
 unless it is to prevent him from backing you into 
 a ditch or tipping over your carriage. Be cool 
 yourself and he will soon gain confidence. 
 
 89. — Horses often shy owing to defective 
 sight (read Rule i), and very often in the twilight, 
 because in these cases they cannot clearly discern 
 objects. Gentleness and good sense in a driver 
 will in a great measure overcome the difficulty. 
 If you whip a shying horse past the object which 
 frightens him, you only confirm the habit. ■ 
 
 90. — More frequently, however, horses shy 
 owing to nervousness or misconception respect- 
 
22 
 
 ing the objects at which they shy. This arises 
 from natural temperament, over-feeding, want of 
 sufficient exercise, defective training, or bad har- 
 nessing. 
 
 91. — If you speak encouragingly and let your 
 horse come slowly to the object, yet not too close, 
 you will teach him that it will not hurt him. You 
 will then let him ascertain what it was that 
 frightened him, and so give him courage. 
 
 92. — Avoid very stony or rough parts of the 
 road. It spares the horse and will, in all prob- 
 ability, prevent many an accident. 
 
 93. — When the road is very bad and your 
 horse tired, it is well to dismount and lead him. 
 He will then be of use where you can employ him 
 to real advantage. 
 
 94. — Go up hill by easy stages and zig-zag 
 over the road if it is safe to do so. Have a 
 " Scotch " ready to put under the wheel whenever 
 you stop, and when the " Scotch " is fixed, back 
 your horse a little to take the pull off him. If it 
 is a two-wheeled cart let the prop down to take 
 the weight. When you get to the top let him go 
 slow for a bit on the level to recover ^ and cool 
 himself. 
 
 95. — If a horse is made to stop going up a hill 
 and no stone or support is put to the vehicle, he 
 will very likely fall down if there is a heavy load. 
 For the whole weight, dragging on the collar, 
 stops his breathing. 
 
23 
 
 g6. — If you are driving a cart with a very 
 heavy load, a prop should be at hand to bear up 
 the shafts while you stop. This eases the weight 
 off the animal's back and relieves him very much. 
 
 97. — Never ride fast in the dark, if you value 
 either your own or your horse's neck, because 
 you will probably break one or the other, if you 
 fall or come in contact with some object. 
 
 98. — Never take a jump if you can do without 
 it. It shakes a horse unnecessarily, and a good 
 rider will never leap over a gate if he can go 
 through it. 
 
 99. — On a hard road, ride at the side where it 
 is softest. It spares your horse's feet and legs — • 
 a worthy object. 
 
 100. — If you wish to gallop, do so only on 
 soft turf, or the smooth, moist sea-sand. Hard 
 ground, such as a high road, is sure to injure the 
 feet and legs. 
 
 loi. — Never let a horse trot downhill. It 
 hurts the horse, as it jars the shoulders, weakens 
 the tendons and " springs " the knees. A horse 
 should always be taught to go carefully downhill. 
 
 102. — When you come to a steep hill, get 
 down and walk. You cannot go fast, and it wiU 
 greatly spare your animal. 
 
 103. — Stop often, if but for a few moments, 
 during severe exertion. It enables the horse to 
 recover his wind. 
 
 104. — Every now and then, when you rest, 
 
H 
 
 slacken your girths, and shift your saddle. If 
 the day be hot stand him in the shade ; if cold, 
 cover him ; if stormy, stand him where the rain 
 does not drive into his face. These apparently 
 trifling things ease the horse very much. 
 
 105. — Never stop long in cold, wet, or windy 
 weather without putting some loose cloth over 
 the horse's loins. This keeps in the animal's 
 natural warmth, and prevents his getting a chill. 
 
 106. — Never keep a horse standing exposed to 
 the weather, if it is cold and stormy, for any but 
 the briefest possible space of time ; but rather 
 keep moving, however slowly. Movement assists 
 the circulation of the blood, and thus maintains 
 the heat of the body. 
 
 107. — When a horse in harness is kept stand- 
 ing on an incline, always turn his head downhill. 
 This will rest the muscles of his hind legs, which 
 are those principally engaged in drawing. 
 
 108. — Take ofl his blinkers if you are allowed 
 to. He is much more likely to be frightened of 
 what he can hear but cannot see. Train young 
 horses to go in harness without blinkers. They 
 add to the weight of the headgear, are clumsy, 
 heat the eyes and head injuriously in hot weather, 
 deprive the horse to a great extent of the use of 
 his vision, and damage the sight. They have 
 nothing whatever to recommend them but custom. 
 
 109. — In hot weather, if the flies worry him, 
 sponge him with a weak mixture of Jeyes' or 
 Condy's Fluid and water, taking care of his eyes. 
 
25 
 
 TRANSVERSE SECTION OF HORSE'S TAIL OR 
 " DOCK." 
 
 This diagram shows the joint surface of one of the bones {a), with 
 
 all the muscles (&), arteries (c), veins {d), and nerves (e), covered 
 
 by the skin {q). See Rule no. 
 
26 
 
 Give him also a face-mane, made either of pieces 
 of string hanging from his forehead strap to below 
 his nose, or made from a dark piece of cotton 
 with a hanging fringe which he can shake. 
 
 no. — Do not allow the horse's tail to be 
 docked, nor the hair on it to be cut except in 
 winter. It is a most useful defence, given by 
 Nature against flies and other annoying insects.* 
 
 III. — To cure a horse of rubbing his tail, wash 
 the dock with warm water and good Castile Soap, 
 and thoroughly dry the part with a clean coarse 
 towel ; the rubbing to be kept up till the part is 
 not only dry, but well warmed with the friction. 
 
 112. — Give your horse one day's rest from 
 work in the week, as you like to give yourself one, 
 and he will work the better for it. 
 
 113. — Be gentle with your horse. Nervous 
 excitement upsets not only his temper, but also 
 his digestion. A horse appreciates a kindly voice, 
 and the care and good treatment he receives will 
 have more to do with his condition than the 
 amount of grain you give him. 
 
 *^* When in doubt on any point, think of the 
 animal and his capabilities, and say : — ■ 
 
 " How SHOULD I LIKE IT IF IN HIS PLACE ? " 
 
 * H.R.H. The Duke of Connaught, who is well-known as a prac- 
 tical horseman, says of docking — " Personally I think the docking 
 of horses' tails is a relic of barbarism. I think it is a shame to 
 deprive a dumb animal such as the horse of the tail God has given 
 it." See also " The Crime of Docking," by Steven Harding Terry, 
 published by the R.S.P.C.A. (New Series, No. 48), Price 3d. 
 
A STUDY IN CONTRASTS 
 
 Copyright 
 
 Undocked. 
 
 Copyright 
 
 Docked. 
 
 These two pictures testify eloquently against the abomiaable 
 fashioQ of docking. 
 
27 
 
 HINTS ON FOOD. 
 
 114. — If you don't feed your horse well, he 
 cannot work well, but he must be fed with due 
 regard to his age, weight, size, constitution, and 
 work. When a horse is worked hard, give him 
 four meals of oats and good hay cut up into chaff, 
 and mixed with the oats. If not working hard a 
 horse should have three meals a day. 
 
 115. — Never use bad hay on account of its 
 cheapness, there is no proper nourishment in it, 
 and it will induce disease. 
 
 116. — Damaged corn is exceedingly injurious. 
 It brings on Inflammation of the Bowels and 
 Kidneys, and Skin Diseases. 
 
 117 — Chaff is better for old horses than hay, 
 as it is chewed and digested better by them. 
 
 118. — Mix chaff with corn or beans, and do 
 not give the latter alone. It makes the horse 
 chew his food more, and digest it better. 
 
 119. — Hay or grass alone will not support a 
 horse under hard work, as there is not sufficient 
 nutritive matter in either. 
 
 120. — When a horse is worked hard, its food 
 should chiefly be oats with chaff ; if not worked 
 
2g 
 
 hard, give less oats and more chaff or hay. Oats 
 supply more nourishment and flesh-making 
 material than any other kind of food. 
 
 121. — For a saddle or coach horse, f of a peck 
 of sound oats and eighteen pounds of good hay 
 are sufficient per day. If the hay is not good, 
 add a quarter of a peck more oats. A horse which 
 works hard must be fed well. If worked very 
 hard, he may have rather more of each ; one that 
 works little should have less. 
 
 122. — Rack feeding is very wasteful. The 
 better plan is to feed with chopped hay from a 
 manger. The food is not then thrown about, and 
 is more easily chewed and digested. {See Rule 1 2.) 
 
 123. — Oats should be bruised for an old horse, 
 but not for a young one. The former, through 
 age and defective teeth, cannot chew them suffi- 
 ciently ; while the young horse can do so, and the 
 oats are thus properly mixed with the saliva, and 
 converted into wholesome nutriment. 
 
 124. — Grass should always be cut for hay 
 before the seed drops, because the juices that 
 ripen the seed are the most valuable part of the 
 hay. If they are used up by its ripening and 
 dropping, the grass will not turn into hay ; but 
 will only wither and grow yellow. 
 
 125. — Vetches and cut grass should always be 
 given in the spring to horses that cannot be turned 
 out into the fields. They are very cooling and 
 
29 
 
 refreshing, and almost medicinal in their effects ; 
 but they must be supplied in moderation, as they 
 are liable to ferment in the stomach if given 
 largely, and act unfavourably on the bowels. 
 
 126. — Water your horse from a pond or 
 stream, rather than from a spring or well. The 
 latter is generally hard and cold, while the former 
 is soft and comparatively warm. The horse 
 prefers even muddy water, if soft, to clear hard 
 water. 
 
 127. — A horse should have at least a pail of 
 water morning and evening ; or (still better) four 
 half-pails, a half-pailful four times in the day. 
 This assuages his thirst without bloating him. 
 But he should not be made to work immediately 
 after he has had a full draught of water, for 
 digestion and exertion can never go on well 
 together. {See pages 46 and 47.) 
 
 128. — Do not urge the animal to drink water 
 which he refuses, but always let him have easy 
 access to water in the stable, and water him an 
 hour and a half or two hours after feeding him at 
 night. 
 
 129. — A moderate quantity of water will do a 
 horse no harm at any time. If he be exhausted, 
 however, and the water be very cold, it may give 
 rise to serious symptoms, as it abstracts a large 
 amount of heat, and acts injuriously on the 
 bowels ; while nature is too prostrated to produce 
 a favourable reaction. 
 
30 
 
 130. — Do not allow your horse to have warm 
 water to drink. Because if he has to drink cold 
 water after getting accustomed to warm, it will 
 give him the Colic. 
 
 131. — When your horse refuses his food after 
 drinking, go no farther that day, because the poor 
 creature is thoroughly tired out. 
 
 132. — In such a case, a bucket of warm oat- 
 meal gruel with a little ground ginger will do good. 
 These stimulate and refresh the horse, and bring 
 back his appetite. 
 
 133. — In bleak cold weather, add half a pint of 
 horse beans to the morning and evening meals. 
 
 134. — Keep a piece of rock salt in the manger 
 for the horse to lick. 
 
 135. — A warm bran mash does good given 
 once a week. If the horse rests on Sunday — 
 as he ought — feed the mash Saturday night. 
 Don't let the bowels of any horse become con- 
 stipated. 
 
31 
 
 HINTS FOR ACCIDENTS, 
 
 When a horse falls whilst drawing a vehicle — 
 
 I. — Jump down and hold the animal's head 
 down, to prevent his dashing it about, to his own 
 injury. 
 
 2. — Loosen the bearing-rein or hame-rein (if 
 you have one on the horse), and the parts of the 
 harness which fasten him to the vehicle. 
 
 3. — Back the vehicle, so as to get the shafts 
 and traces clear. 
 
 4. — If the ground is slippery, put down sacks, 
 or strew sand or ashes, so as to give him a foot- 
 hold, and prevent his slipping about and injuring 
 himself. 
 
 5. — Steady and support the horse's head, as a 
 frightened horse cannot use his senses aright, and 
 excite him, with hand and voice to rise. 
 
 6. — When you have got him up, pat and en- 
 courage the nervous animal, and see if he is 
 wounded or otherwise injured. 
 
 7. — Let him stand still a short time to recover 
 
32 
 
 himself, and then, if not hurt, proceed gently and 
 with greater caution than before. 
 
 8. — Never whip him or punish him for falling 
 or stumbling, as it will make him unnecessarily 
 nervous. A stumble or an accident is very often 
 due to bad driving, holding the reins slack, or 
 failing to notice some stone or slippery place on 
 the road, the fault in such cases is yours, not his. 
 
SECTION OF A HORSE'S FOOT. 
 
 (See expIanalloQ on opposite page.) 
 
33 
 
 SECTION OF A HORSE'S FOOT. 
 
 A. Large metacarpal, or canon bone. 
 
 B. Suffraginis, or large pastern bone. 
 c. Corona, or small pastern bone. 
 
 D. Pedal, or foot-bone. 
 
 E. Navicular bone. 
 
 F. Insensitive or horny laminae. 
 H.H. Inferior sesamoideal ligament. 
 
 K.K.K. Flexor tendon. (Flexor pedis perforans.) 
 
 M. Flexor tendon. (Flexor pedis perforatus.) 
 
 N. True suspensory ligament. 
 
 o. Sesamoids, 
 
 p.p.p.p. Extensor tendon of foot. (Extensor pedis.) 
 
 R. Portion of the coronary secreting band, 
 
 s. Sensitive frog. 
 
 T. Outer wall or crust of foot. 
 
 V. Sensitive laminae, 
 
 w. Horny frog. 
 
 X. Horny sole. 
 
 Y. Sensitive sole. 
 
34 
 
 FOOT, EYE AND STOMACH. 
 
 The Foot. 
 
 As the foot is the first part which a purchaser 
 should examine, it will be well to commence with 
 a simple description of it : first in its outward 
 appearance, and then as to its internal structure. 
 
 The generality of horse-owners would, in all 
 probability, if examined, be found to know little of 
 its structure. To most persons, the foot of a horse 
 appears to be only a roundish hard lump of horn, 
 on which an iron shoe is nailed to prevent its being 
 worn away by the roads. Such persons may per- 
 haps hear with astonishment that it is one of the 
 most complex, elaborate, and important parts of 
 a horse, perfectly adapted to the work it is 
 intended to perform, and that our artificial 
 assistance, far from preserving, often cripples, and 
 very frequently totally ruins it. 
 
 The real foot of the horse is enclosed in a 
 horny case called the Hoof, the outside rim of this 
 casing forms what is called the Crust or Wall, 
 marked (a) in the accompanying illustration. 
 The fore-part is about half an inch thick, be- 
 coming thinner towards the heel, and then curves 
 sharply inwards. 
 
^y^^-m^. 
 
 THE FOOT. 
 
 AAA A — Cms or Wall;. BB — Horny or Insensitive Sole ; C — Frog ; 
 DD — Bars [an inflection of the Crust or Wall) ; E— Cleft of Frog ; 
 F — Base on Heel of Frog ; H — Heel of Foot ; K — Toe of Foot ; 
 L — Point on Apex of Frog ; M — Seat of Corn between Bars and 
 Crust, usually found in the inside heel. 
 
35 
 
 The ends which Incline inwards are called the 
 Bars (d). In the natural state of the foot they 
 are quite prominent and visible ; but in a horse 
 which has been frequently shod they are often 
 nearly obliterated, as, in general, the farrier, by 
 a mistaken and very faulty system, cuts them 
 almost entirely away. The mischievous effects 
 of this practice will be seen when we come to 
 consider the uses of the hoof. In the middle and 
 hinder part of the hoof is an elastic horny sub- 
 stance called the Frog (c), which occupies 
 about a quarter of the sole. It forms a soft and 
 yielding cushion on which the horse's foot partly 
 rests, being thus relieved from the shock of the 
 hard hoof on the ground. This important part is 
 pared away by the ignorant and prejudiced farrier. 
 
 The part of the hoof which has a plane sur- 
 face which is opposed to the ground, and extends 
 from the frog to the outside or wall of the hoof, is 
 called the Sole. It is horny and hard, yet not 
 solid, but somewhat elastic. 
 
 In the hinder part of the foot, where the two 
 ends of the frog terminate, are the Heels (h) ; 
 and these also are of the same horny character. 
 A full description of the internal structure of the 
 foot would be beyond our limits. The illustra- 
 tion, photographed from an actual foot, will, 
 however, give a general idea. 
 
 Immediately inside the hoof, in the fore part 
 and sides, is the bone of the foot, properly so 
 called, or the Coffin Bone, as it is termed. It 
 
36 
 
 fills the fore part of the hoof, is filled with numer- 
 ous blood vessels, through which the circulation 
 of this extreme part of the body is carried on ; 
 the substance of the bone not only allowing the 
 blood-vessels to pass freely through, but pro- 
 tecting them from every obstruction. Around 
 this bone are a great number of blood-vessels, 
 the ridges which fit exactly between leaves or 
 ridges on the inner part of the hoof, which are 
 horny and dove-tail, and so help to attach bone 
 to hoof. At its summit, in front, is fixed the large 
 extensor tendon of the foot. 
 
 Fitting into this bone, at the top, is another 
 called the Small Pastern Bone, to which is joined 
 another strong tendon that regulates the use of 
 the foot. On its upper surface it forms a cup-like 
 hollow, and receives the end of the Large Pastern 
 Bone ; while below and behind it is a small 
 movable piece named the Navicular Bone, 
 which seems to have for its object the steadying 
 and strengthening the action of the powerful 
 flexor tendon that is inserted in the sole of the 
 coffin-bone. 
 
 If the foot were a flat and unyielding mass, 
 the danger of slipping would be, in many in- 
 stances, very great. But instead of this, it has 
 a prominent edge all round, which takes a firm 
 hold of the ground and obviates the difficulty. 
 Further, this hoof is somewhat elastic, and on 
 the weight of the horse being fully thrown on it, 
 allows the inner soft cushion or frog to descend 
 and press firmly and tightly on the earth. Thus 
 
37 
 
 two ends are wonderfully and completely at- 
 tained ; firmness in the tread, insuring the horse's 
 safety, and a regularity of pressure which ob- 
 viates the jarring that would be so painful and 
 prejudicial. 
 
 When the animal is in a state of nature, its 
 hoof is strong enough to need no artificial pro- 
 tection ; but on the hard and stony roads 
 common in all civilised countries, it has been 
 found necessary to fit something to the foot, to 
 protect it from the great wear and tear which is 
 unavoidably incurred. For this purpose nothing 
 has been found so effectual as to what is termed 
 shoeing, or affixing a thin plate of iron round 
 the outer hard and horny hoof. When done with 
 judgment, the proper action of the foot goes on 
 nearly as usual ; but if injudiciously performed, 
 the action of the horse ^is impeded, lameness is 
 caused, and temporary or permanent disease are 
 brought on. {See Rules 26-34.) 
 
 Many persons, from an idea of saving time, 
 desire the smith to come and shoe their horses, 
 instead of sending them to the forge. This 
 should never be done. For when the workman 
 is by his fire, if the shoe should not quite fit (as is 
 nearly certain to be the case), he can easily heat 
 and alter it ; but if at a distance, in the farmer's 
 or gentleman's stable, he has not the oppor- 
 tunity of doing so, and can only make foot and 
 shoe match by cutting away the wall of the hoof 
 — a most injudicious and dangerous practice, 
 which a careless workman is too often willing to 
 be satisfied with. 
 
38 
 
 To those who consider the matter, it must be 
 obvious that this tender and important organ 
 ought not to be left to the care of a smith with- 
 out supervision. His trade requires judgment and 
 discretion ; and there are no better means of 
 ensuring careful shoeing than for the horse pro- 
 prietor to visit the forge while his horse is being 
 shod and observe the proceedings. Much de- 
 pends on the preparation of the shoe; but it 
 should be constantly kept in mind that a horse 
 may be easily lamed from rash and ignorant 
 paring of his hoofs. Indeed, the great evils of 
 shoeing are cutting the sole and frog, putting 
 on too heavy and too small shoes and rasping 
 the outer surface of the wall of the hoof — {See 
 Rules 26-34). As the subject is one of very 
 great importance, it will not be out of place here 
 to reprint the following article, written by R 
 Boylston Hall, which appeared in The Livery 
 Stable (New York). 
 
 Practical Horseshoeing, 
 
 The most important matter as connected with 
 the comfort and utility of our horses, is unques- 
 tionably the proper care of their feet and the 
 shoeing of them, to fit them to exert their due 
 amount of strength in performing the tasks their 
 owners set for them. Most of the shoes placed 
 upon the feet of our ordinary carriage and driving 
 horses are constructed on a basis that is radically 
 wrong. Go into the best equipped blacksmiths' 
 shops, look at the stock of shoes ready for use and 
 you will find that they are uniformly constructed 
 
39 
 
 on the same plan, whether they be hand made 
 or machine-made. They are all made — if plain, 
 uncalked shoes — thicker at the heels than at the 
 front of the shoe. Now this is wrong. If the feet 
 are made true and are properly balanced by the 
 smith, with the use of his rasp, why should he 
 throw that foot out of balance by placing upon 
 it a shoe that is not level — that is, of even thick- 
 ness from heel to heel ? Now as this foot is 
 thrown out of balance by an unbalanced shoe, 
 how much more out of balance must it continue 
 to become from wearing such a shoe, when it is 
 borne in mind that the shoe wears off at the front 
 part much faster than at the hind part — that is, 
 at the heels ? The shoes are, therefore, made 
 just hind end foremost. As the wear is the more 
 rapid at the front of the shoe, would it not be 
 even better to make all shoes at the heels, say 
 just a trifle less thick than at the front of them ? 
 Would not this plan equalise — certainly to an 
 improving degree of balance — this unequal wear 
 and be a good improvement over the plan so 
 universally in vogue ? It certainly would, and 
 I have shown by many years of experience in the 
 use of shoes so formed much increased comfort 
 to the joints, making the articulation smooth, 
 with great decrease of friction with its conse- 
 quent fatigue to the animal. The horses will do 
 more work, will do it more comfortably^ rest 
 better after their work and consequently eat 
 better, digest their food more perfectly and keep 
 in better condition of flesh, wearing the shoe I 
 recommend for them. This same bad custom is 
 in vogue in placing calks on shoes. Invariably 
 
40 
 
 will you find that the heel calks are struck to be 
 much higher than the toe calks. I have seen 
 many, many shoes removed from the feet of 
 horses where the front of the shoe has worn out, 
 calks and all, and the heel calks still so high that 
 could the front of the shoe stand repairing and 
 thickening again by placing thereon a new toe 
 calk, the heels would need no change to correspond 
 in proper depth. Another serious mistake is in 
 the use of shoes entirely too heavy for our carri- 
 age and driving horses. I am speaking more 
 particularly now. If the sole is left in the foot 
 and not pared out at all, only rasped down so as 
 to be just a shade above the wall on the ground 
 surface so that the shoe will have no bearing on 
 it, no wide web of iron need be placed on the foot 
 to protect the foot. Nature's protection, the 
 sole, beats all of the artificial protection that can 
 possibly be devised by the ingenuity of man to 
 take proper care of the foot for whatever use the 
 horse is put to. It is a very beneficial protection 
 in winter for the snow path, for it will render it 
 almost an impossibility for the horse to " ball 
 up," that is, fill his foot with snow in the entire 
 inside of it, as he would be liable to do if the sole 
 was pared out, as is the almost universal custom. 
 There would be a much lessened possibility of 
 picking up stones, nails, etc. A good, strong, 
 thick, healthy sole left in the toot would offer a 
 comparatively safe resistance to the penetration 
 of a nail ; certainly it would, in this respect, be 
 a protection not offered by the thin sole of a 
 pared-out foot. When the foot is properly 
 treated, as mentioned, shoe with a narrow web 
 
41 
 
 shoe. For the ordinary carriage and road horses, 
 five-eighths of an inch is plenty wide enough. A 
 shoe of this width, made of proper thickness, will 
 wear as long as one of nearly double the width ; 
 then just think of the increased comfort, the 
 decreased wear and tear of the joints, muscles 
 and tendons in lifting at each step a shoe lightened 
 by nearly one-half in weight. For with the sole 
 left intact, as mentioned, such a shoe will be of 
 sufficient width to offer all the protection re- 
 quired under any and all circumstances. 
 
 In " sharpening " horses for the slippery road 
 in winter driving, place the toe calk on the inside 
 wxb of the shoe and don't make it too long. For 
 the ordinary driving horse, say about 15 to 15I 
 hands, the toe calk need not be over one and one- 
 eighth to one and one-quarter long, from side to 
 side, and not over one half-inch in height, at the 
 most, and the heel calk, to correspond to this, 
 should not be over three-eighths of an inch in 
 height and should be stuck up from the heels of 
 the shoe at the points. This will be found prefer- 
 able to the welding on of a calk running along the 
 side of the shoe from the point of the heel for- 
 ward, as used by many. The heel calk, as is 
 shown by the wear of it, is not much used, and 
 is placed on the heel more to balance, by equalis- 
 ing the thickness of the shoe, than for any other 
 purpose. Even on the hind shoes, where the work 
 is done, this will be found to be the case. A horse 
 does not get his hold on the ground with the heel 
 of his shoe to propel the load, neither does he use 
 the heels in the act of " backing " the load ; the 
 
42 
 
 toe gets the grip on the ground from which the 
 horse pushes the load, for he does not pull it. 
 
 To keep the feet in proper balance and in 
 proper health, the shoes should be reset or new 
 ones put on, as the case may require, about every 
 three weeks, for it must be borne in mind that a 
 foot in a fair degree of health, grows about three- 
 eighths of an inch each month, and grows irregu- 
 larly. The object in changing them as often as 
 advised is to take advantage of this irregular 
 growth and pare the walls to keep the feet toned 
 and balanced. Let the smith have a chance to 
 live ; if he tones up the horses' feet about every 
 three weeks he has little to do and can keep them 
 in a most admirable condition. Remember the 
 smith's bill, if he be a careful one, is the most 
 important of all the bills a horse owner has to pay. 
 He should be paid a fair price, so he can afford to 
 devote a proper amount of time to the prepara- 
 tion of the feet and the adjusting of the shoes. 
 To the smith let me say, never put a shoe to the 
 foot that is too hot to be borne in the hand. 
 
 The Eye. 
 
 The eye of the horse differs in some points 
 from that of man, and it has some parts not pos- 
 sessed by the latter, which are required by the 
 sight and habits^of the animal. 
 
 The horse has no eyebrow, and his eyelashes 
 are arranged in a peculiar manner, the longest 
 hairs being on the upper lid, probably that the 
 eye may be defended from excess of light, and 
 
43 
 
 from insects, which would naturally endeavour to 
 annoy the horse in that unprotected part. Many 
 stable boys and grooms, in their desire to make 
 their horses appear neat, are so foolish as to cut 
 away those necessary and important lashes, to 
 the intolerable pain and inconvenience of the 
 poor animal, who is unable, while at work, to 
 turn or shelter himself from any inconvenience 
 or annoyance. 
 
 On the lower lid are some long projecting 
 hairs or bristles, which are supposed to be useless 
 by ignorant persons, and are sometimes cut away. 
 Are they, however, useless ? Far from it ! They 
 are intended to let the animal know the presence 
 of anything that may approach the eye too 
 closely. If you will touch one of those hairs and 
 observe the sudden twitch and closing of the eye, 
 you will be able to appreciate the importance of 
 these supposed useless and superfluous excre- 
 scences. 
 
 The horse has no hands wherewith to rub his 
 eyes, when they are irritated by dust or similar 
 substances. A continual drying of the liquids 
 which moisten that part is continually going on, 
 more especially when moving quickly along ; 
 and so the horse is provided with an efficient sub- 
 stitute for so necessary a purpose. Just inside 
 the upper lid is a little organ called the Lachry- 
 mal Gland, which is continually sending out a 
 liquid to flow over the eye and wash away all 
 lesser impurities. Besides this provision, there 
 is a thin cartilage or membrane concealed in one 
 
44 
 
 corner of the eye, vulgarly called the Haw, and 
 this, whenever the animal wishes, can be pushed 
 out along the surface of the eyeball. The dust or 
 insect that may be the cause of the irritation, 
 wet with the tears, is immediately carried away. 
 
 Many persons who profess to understand 
 horses are ignorant of this beautiful provision. 
 The Haw is sometimes thickened and protruded 
 when suffering from inflammation of the neigh- 
 bouring parts ; it is then not infrequently mis- 
 taken for a tumour or swelling, and absolutely 
 cut out instead of being cured by a little rest or 
 cooling medicine. Let anyone fancy the torture 
 of being exposed to the full glare of the sun and 
 to a dusty road, without being able to wipe or 
 rub the eye, and they wiU easily comprehend 
 the barbarity and absurdity of the practice. 
 The loss of blood which follows the operation 
 may sometimes relieve the inflammation ; but 
 the cure could have been equally well accom 
 plished by simple and rational means, without 
 depriving the animal of this necessary appendage. 
 
 When in a darkened stable^ the Iris, or 
 brownish curtain around the centre of the eye, 
 expands, so as to admit the passage of sufficient 
 rays of light for distinct vision ; but on coming 
 into the glare of day the same aperture immedi- 
 ately closes or grows less, a small quantity of light 
 being necessary under these altered circum- 
 stances. Any person who has felt the pain and 
 inconvenience of coming suddenly from a dark 
 room into the full blaze of day will readily con- 
 
45 
 
 ceive the necessity for lighting a stable in a 
 proper manner. This is too often neglected in 
 confined stables, and the consequences are most 
 injurious, for by a continuance of this change, from 
 darkness to sudden daylight, the eye becomes 
 seriously aflected. The Retina or sensible nervous 
 expansion, becomes deadened and more or less 
 useless ; the horse's sight is injured ; he starts 
 and shies at objects which he sees imperfectly ; 
 and many a man who has received a dangerous 
 injury has had to thank his inattention to this 
 simple cause rather than any vicious habit of the 
 animal, to which it has been attributed {see Rules 
 I and i6). Blindness is almost certain to be caused 
 by inattention to the above caution ; but even 
 blindness itself is less dangerous to the driver or 
 rider than imperfect sight. In the first case, the 
 horse is forced to trust entirely to the bridle ; but 
 in the latter, objects only half distinguished 
 terrify and startle, though they would under 
 ordinary circumstances be passed without notice. 
 
 Blinkers too are often a source of danger, for 
 they heat the eyes, prevent the horse from seeing 
 what he may hear is approaching him, or only 
 give him a passing glimpse of something which, 
 could he see it better would not frighten him. 
 If a horse has become used to blinkers, caution 
 and sound judgment must be used in gradually 
 accustoming him to do without them, but a colt, 
 properly broken in, will never need them. It is 
 worth remembering that army horses, and the 
 horses of many of the large railway and carrier 
 companies are worked without them. 
 
46 
 
 Another source of injury to the eye is the 
 vapour which is constantly arising from a hot, foul 
 stable. Every intelligent reader must have felt 
 the cough and watering eyes which are caused to 
 himself in going into such a place. What, then, 
 must be the operation of the same causes on 
 animals shut up for many hours at a stretch, and 
 exposed to their full activity ? The eyes are 
 inflamed by the ammoniacal vapours that are 
 produced ; the throat is irritated ; a cough is 
 developed ; and bHndness, with cough or asthma, 
 arc the inevitable consequences. 
 
 The Stomach. 
 
 The horse has the smallest stomach in propor- 
 tion to its size of any of the domestic animals, and 
 it is considerably less, in proportion, than a man's. 
 Therefore, it must have food and drink frequently. 
 To explain our present subject, it will be sufficient 
 to say that the horse's chest contains his lungs, 
 by which he breathes, and his heart. Behind 
 them, separated only by a thin wide muscle that 
 forms a partition, is the stomach destined to 
 receive and digest the food. Each of these organs 
 become larger when in use ; the lungs occupying 
 more room when the animal is moving about, and 
 breathing more quickly. The space they occupy 
 is then so filled; that only one of them can be 
 distended at a time. The horse can distend his 
 lungs, and breathe hard, trot, or gallop fast, pro- 
 vided his stomach be empty ; he can fill the latter 
 with safety, when at rest, or nearly so, till the food 
 is digested. But if they are both full, the greatest 
 
47 
 
 danger is to be apprehended ; the horse is sure to 
 be " blown " almost immediately, because he has 
 no room to breathe, and apoplexy, or rupture of 
 the stomach, may cause the animal to drop dead in 
 a minute. It goes without saying that the horse 
 is to be fed the first thing in the morning, but if 
 an unusually hard day's work is ahead for the 
 animal, it is better that he should have an extra 
 feed the night before, and only the average break- 
 fast, for a meal requires time for digestion, and an 
 overfed horse is as inactive as an overfed man. 
 Recollect this rhyme, which may perhaps serve to 
 recall an important principle to mind : — 
 
 " Full feed, then rest ; 
 Often feed dcest best." 
 
 Carry a nosebag — the kind with the upper portion 
 well ventilated, so you can give the horse a feed 
 any time without unharnessing him. A small 
 feed every two hours, with a short rest, is better 
 for the horse than a comparatively full feed in 
 the middle of the day. Staggers, megrims, and 
 apoplexy are brought on by long fasting and over- 
 feeding thereafter. A wisp of wet hay and a 
 swallow or two of water at intervals of a couple of 
 hours will refresh a horse that has been travelling 
 hard and fast. In warm weather, after the 
 animal has been given a drink, it is well to sponge 
 out his nostrils and eyes, as it is very refreshing. 
 Four half pails of water four times a day are 
 better for him than a full pail of water morning 
 and night. If you want the horse to be well and 
 strong, don't hurry him when feeding, or work 
 him the moment he has finished. 
 
GROOMING THE HORSE. 
 
 Clipping the horse is a comfort to the animal 
 in summer, if you are able to protect him from the 
 flies. In the winter, it is cruel and foolish, how- 
 ever much it may add to his appearance. Grooms 
 and stablemen often urge that a horse be clipped 
 because it makes it easier for them to keep him 
 clean. In cleaning a horse, he should first be led 
 from his stall, because otherwise the dust will 
 settle in his crib, fouling the food. If a horse is 
 washed, he must immediately be well dried, as he 
 is otherwise liable to take cold. The currycomb 
 must always be used gently, as it otherwise be- 
 comes an instrument of torture, but when it comes 
 to the matter of brushing and rubbing, the more 
 thoroughly it is done, the handsomer the animal's 
 coat will appear, and the more thoroughly will he 
 be ready for a day's work, because brushing 
 softens his skin, frees the pores from dandruflf 
 and other impurities, opens them and stimulates 
 them into action. The hair should never be cut 
 from a horse's ears, nor from his pasterns, because 
 the hair in the ears keeps them warm, and prevents 
 deafness, and the hair about the hoofs keeps the 
 fetlocks dry, and prevents sore heels. It may 
 make work easier for the men in the stable, but it 
 won't add to the comfort or usefulness of the 
 horse. Washing, currying, and grooming the 
 horse had best be the work of the early morning. 
 
49 
 
 On returning from a day's work, if the horse is hot, 
 he should be allowed to cool gradually before 
 being placed in his stall, so as to avoid taking a 
 chill. Then his legs should be well rubbed down 
 by hand. This operation soothes and rests the 
 animal, and enables the man to detect and remove 
 thorns, burrs or splinters. Then the horse's hoofs 
 should be carefully examined, and if there is a 
 stone wedged between the hoof and the shoe, it 
 must be removed. Otherwise the animal will 
 probably be lame by morning. It is best to have 
 the shoe of a city horse changed every three 
 weeks, because the hoof is constantly growing, and 
 any fault in shoe or foot requires instant attention. 
 
so 
 
 HINTS ON DRAUGHT, 
 
 Whenever a horse is employed for the purpose 
 of drawing any vehicle, it is of the utmost import- 
 ance that he should be able to employ all his 
 strength to advantage, and yet with some degree 
 of comfort to himself. Every one who thinks at 
 all must acknowledge that if a horse has to do 
 his work in a cramped and confined condition, or 
 when he is inconveniently placed as regards the 
 load, he cannot exert his full power, which is so 
 much loss to his master ; or, if forced to perform 
 a certain amount, that he is obHged to waste a 
 great deal more of his strength (or muscular power) 
 than is required, to his own great pain and injury. 
 
 The strength required of an average sized 
 horse or team of horses, and the strain on the 
 horses to draw a heavy load over stones or out of 
 a deep rut, hole, or over many other avoidable 
 obstacles, is often greater than to draw the same 
 load over a smooth surface fifty yards. 
 
 It would be a small estimate to say a careless 
 driver strains his team in that manner twenty 
 times a day. 
 
 If a driver prevents straining his horses twenty 
 times each day he will save them looo yards of 
 unnecessary pulling, and in the 300 working days 
 
SI 
 
 of the year 300,000 yards, and in five years 
 1,500,000 yards — nearly 1000 miles. 
 
 With proper judgment and carefulness the 
 driver, at the end of five years, will have, in place 
 of a team of weak, overworked, bony horses, a 
 team of healthy and strong ones. 
 
 From a business point of view will it not pay 
 any horse owner, driver or teamster to be careful 
 and considerate, and to avoid all unnecessary 
 strains on horses ? 
 
 The question how to properly attach the horse 
 to the vehicle, is therefore, of the greatest import- 
 ance to every master who wishes to get a proper 
 degree of work m a fair and rational manner. 
 Yet, from being unacquainted with the principles, 
 few examine closely into the practice. An im- 
 mense amount of horse strength is wasted every 
 day on loads, which, if properly attached, might 
 be comfortably moved with far less trouble, 
 exertion, and pain. 
 
 The act of pulling is performed by leaning 
 forward, with the weight of the body, against the 
 resistance of the load, and also by strong move- 
 ments of the limbs, keeping up and increasing the 
 pressure ; the weight of the body being of the 
 utmost importance, as any one may find, by pulling 
 at a rope passing over one shoulder, and standing 
 upright all the time. It will be found that what 
 was before pulled with ease cannot now be moved 
 at all, or at any rate, only by the most severe and 
 
52 
 
 continued effort of the limbs. These muscular 
 movements, by exhausting the strength, try the 
 system violently, whereas the body-weight is easily 
 employed, without consuming the vital energies. 
 
 From the upright position of the man's body, 
 he is not fitted to draw loads. If, therefore, this 
 great difference is perceivable with his light frame, 
 how great must be the waste of strength when the 
 horse is prevented from throwing his whole 
 weight fairly into the collar ? Yet this is con- 
 stantly the case through various causes. 
 
 First, and unfortunately in too many cases, 
 the Collar is quite unfit for the animal. A horse- 
 collar is frequently looked upon merely as a ring 
 for the neck, to which the traces are to be affixed : 
 whereas there is no part of the harness which is 
 so important, and which ought to fit so accurately. 
 How often is a little collar, only fit for a pony, 
 jammed on the neck of a much larger animal, so 
 that every pull he makes must give the feeling of 
 strangulation ; and that will, in all probability, 
 cause distress, or some kind of fit, if long continued, 
 besides its liability to gall and wring the poor 
 animal's shoulder ? When this has taken place 
 the work cannot be fairly performed ; and, to do 
 it at all, the anguish of the poor horse must be 
 indescribable. 
 
 Secondly, the horse is often prevented from 
 throwing his weight into the collar by a Tight 
 Check Rein, Bearing Rein, or Hame-rein ; a 
 useless and painful incumbrance introduced by 
 
(Photo Cupyriii/ii.) 
 
 An unnatural and uncomfortable position for the head, 
 which injures the animal and wastes his strength. 
 
53 
 
 vanity, and retained by thoughtlessness amount- 
 ing to cruelty. Ask horsekeepers why they use 
 it, and hardly any two will give the same answer, 
 though it is generally supposed by them to be a 
 great safeguard in case of stumbling. The real 
 object with which it was introduced was to make 
 every horse to which it was applied, however 
 weak, or old, or poor, assume the lofty carriage of 
 the thorough-bred horse ; and the tossing of the 
 head, the foam at the mouth, and the restless 
 agitation of the body (mute but expressive signs 
 of pain and suffering) came, in a little while, not 
 only to be disregarded, but even looked at with 
 approbation. Fortunately, people are beginning 
 to realise the uselessness of this tight rein. 
 
 Many well-known authorities have spoken as 
 to the uselessness of these reins, and the following 
 opinions are worth quoting : — 
 
 The Duke of Portland says : — " If I see horses 
 approaching me, with a cruel, tight-bearing rein, 
 their heads hauled up to an unnatural height, I 
 expect to find, and generally do, a very third- 
 class looking coachman on the box with a very 
 fourth-class looking carriage, which is generally 
 occupied by people of a vulgar type." 
 
 Major-Gen. Sir R. Baden-Powell says : — " To 
 consider it necessary to use the bearing-rein is a 
 fault which gives away so many an owner as 
 having either very second-rate horses or a third- 
 rate coachman, and in either case as being ignor- 
 ant of^horsemanship himself," 
 
54 
 
 Another well-known horse owner and horse- 
 lover wrote of these reins — " Let anyone watch 
 the horses in the Park, or standing as they do for 
 hours at the theatres, shops, etc., with foaming 
 mouths, and tongues sw^ollen and hanging out, 
 trying to get a little ease for their poor heads and 
 necks by tossing them up, putting them sideways, 
 or in any possible position, vainly appeahng to 
 their unheeding, ignorant masters or coachmen to 
 slacken, if only for a few minutes, the torturing 
 rein, and then say if we can call ourselves a 
 humane people." 
 
 Injuries Due to the Bearing-Rein. 
 By common consent veterinary surgeons, the 
 men who are most intimate with the anatomy of 
 the horse, condemn the bearing-rein, or the tight 
 hame-rein. 
 
 One of the most frequent causes of trouble 
 arising from the use of either of these reins is the 
 displacement and partial dislocation of the upper 
 cartilages of the trachea, or windpipe, at the base 
 of the tongue, the continued pressure of the bear- 
 ing-rein forcing them against the gullet and 
 muscles of the inner surface of the neck, as shown 
 at A, Fig. I. 
 
 It is here seen that the pressure of the jaw 
 and base of the tongue has thrown back the 
 epiglottis and arytenois cartilages against the 
 gullet, B, and almost closed it up, acute pain and 
 frequently inflammation being the result. Let 
 any of my readers try the experiment with a cord 
 
^ 
 
55 
 
 across his mouth ; he will gladly desist after a 
 moment or two. 
 
 Another serious anatomical objection to the 
 bearing-rein is the constant tension of the cervical 
 ligament, c. This is an exceedingly tough and 
 elastic band, mainly concerned in raising and 
 regulating certain movements of the head, and 
 should always be in a perfectly natural state 
 ready for use the moment it is required. By 
 continued pressure of the skull against the first 
 three bones of the neck its elasticity is partially 
 destroyed, and when the bearing-rein is taken 
 off, the horse, in sheer relief, droops his head so 
 that the ligament and surrounding muscles may 
 recover their normal condition. 
 
 Another frequent cause of irritability is the 
 extension of the natural gape of the mouth by the 
 bracing up of the bearing-rein. This is frequently 
 the cause of warty excrescences, cracks and sore 
 mouths, with the results that the horse cannot 
 answer to the driving-rein or bit. He becomes 
 irritable and bad-tempered, and is consequently 
 ill-treated by the coachman. 
 
 Fig. II. shows the natural position of the head 
 and neck. The cartilages of the windpipe, a, are, 
 in their natural position, situated between the 
 angles of the lower jaw, the back of the pharynx 
 and the gullet, and should be quite free from 
 any pressure. 
 
 For the difference between driving with a 
 
56 
 
 tightened rein and a tight bearing-rein, consult 
 Rule 59 carefully. The former is judicious ; the 
 latter hurtful. 
 
 Thirdly, a great cause of unnecessary pain and 
 labour to many horses is a neglect in keeping the 
 wheels greased in a proper manner. " Some per- 
 sons may not be aware," says Heiover, in his 
 work. Bipeds and Quadrupeds^ " that the trifling 
 neglect of a pair of wheels being comparatively 
 dry or well-greased will cause twenty miles to take 
 far more work out of a horse than forty would in 
 the latter case ; yet wheels absolutely screaming 
 from dryness are often seen and heard attached to 
 carts and waggons ; and thus would the brute in 
 human form let them scream, till he had finished 
 his journey's end or his day's work, though his 
 horses were drawing from such cause, at least one 
 ton in four of resistance more than they would if 
 the defect were cured." 
 
 Men who have loaded carts and driven horses 
 all their lives, ought to know how horses should be 
 worked to their masters' advantage and the com- 
 fort of the animals ; but the generality of working 
 men know little, and care less on the subject. 
 If this were not so, how is it that we frequently 
 see the following error ? — a disproportion be- 
 tween the vehicle and the animal. May not 
 a person everywhere observe a fault of this 
 kind ? — a little horse staggering under the 
 weight of a high and heavy cart, which, if 
 the load be in the front of the axle, shows 
 the shafts running absolutely downwards ; or 
 
57 
 
 if behind the axle, nearly lifts the un- 
 fortunate creature off his legs, placing him 
 in a position in which it is impossible he can 
 exert his power at all favourably ; and, on 
 the other hand, how often is a tall horse seen 
 between the shafts of a low gig or cart, pulling 
 the shafts upwards at a sharp angle ? — a posi- 
 tion just as awkward and disadvantageous, 
 and as wasteful of animal power, as that men- 
 tioned before. 
 
 Another instance of mismanagement may 
 sometimes be seen in which it is hard to say 
 whether we ought first to pity the horse, or 
 smile at the folly of the master. It is where 
 two or more are hitched on to a cart or waggon, a 
 tall horse in the shafts and a little one in front. 
 
 Any one who considers for a moment must 
 see that, whenever the front horse pulls, he must 
 drag the shafts down on the wheel horse's back. 
 The harder the pull, the greater the weight 
 the wheel animal has to bear ; while, if the 
 front one is not kept pulling, all advantage 
 is lost from his employment. 
 
 The proper way in such cases is, to employ 
 two horses of the same size ; but as it may 
 sometimes be necessary to employ two of 
 different height, we will here point out an 
 unobjectionable method of harnessing them. 
 
 The horse draws in a straight and level line ; 
 therefore, whenever the shafts and traces are level 
 
58 
 
 or nearly so — sloping a little upwards — we may 
 be sure the draught is properly applied. All that 
 we have to do then, is to remove the traces of the 
 fore horse from the front of the shafts, and attach 
 them to the hind part, supporting the increased 
 length by a small strap or chain. This is simple 
 enough when once understood ; yet people go on 
 for years, without ever considering or attempting 
 to remedy this often recurring fault, which in the 
 course of time tells more severely. 
 
 If the shorter horse is fit to be put in the 
 shafts, then the taller one in front will ease the 
 load off the other's back the more he pulls ; an 
 arrangement every way desirable. 
 
 The best manner of using a draught horse is 
 when one of a suitable size is employed to draw a 
 cart or gig ; more work being then got out of him 
 without useless labour, than in any other way. 
 The market gardeners' carts which come to Lon- 
 don are good examples of this. The vehicle runs 
 lightly and easily ; the weight is distributed 
 judiciously — properly balanced on the axles; 
 and the shafts press only slightly upon the horse's 
 back. Immense loads may be thus drawn with 
 greater facility than by many a half-empty 
 country cart, with ungreased wheels, unsuitable 
 horse, and load thrown in at random. 
 
 The next best way is to harness two horses 
 abreast, both of them being then able to employ 
 their strength directly on the weight to be moved. 
 
59 
 
 The worst way is to use a team. The draught 
 on the front horses is variable and unequal at the 
 best of times ; while the power, being exerted at 
 a distance from the weight, becomes in a great 
 measure neutralised and lost. 
 
 Many more hints on these subjects could be 
 given, but we are writing for unprofessional 
 readers, and space prevents our enlargiag on these 
 matters. Let one rule suffice for all. The bodily 
 feelings which a human being experiences under 
 any circumstances are pretty similar to those felt 
 by a horse, so that a clear and simple rule for 
 guidance is afforded by the consideration that 
 what would be painful and disagreeable to us 
 would be just the same to him. 
 
 It is the master who should look to these 
 points ; for the servant, in most cases, cannot 
 comprehend the propriety of a change, nor would 
 willingly make one, having no interest in it. But 
 it is on the owner the loss of labour every day 
 falls, and the extra expense at the end of the year 
 is out of his pocket. To him therefore we m.ust 
 look for a change in the right direction. On him, 
 too, falls the moral and legal responsibility which 
 the dictates of humanity or the rules of justice 
 demand, in his treatment of the dumb creatures 
 dependent on him. 
 
6o 
 
 HORSE MAXIMS. 
 
 There is a great deal of saving in a walk. 
 
 Find some way of keeping the horses busy all 
 winter. 
 
 It is expensive to warm ice water inside the 
 stock. 
 
 If you must put frosty bits in some mouth, let 
 it be your own. 
 
 Warm the bits with your breath and hand in 
 freezing weather. 
 
 There is more profit in coaxing than in kicks. 
 
 Be gentle, be kind, be patient. 
 
 Always speak to a horse as you would to a 
 gentleman. 
 
 A horse can travel safer and better with his 
 head hanging free than he can when it is checked 
 into an unnatural position. 
 
 Many a horse stands up all night because his 
 stall is not made comfortable to lie down in. 
 
 Kindness and reasonable persuasion are the 
 best weapons to use in training and educating a 
 horse. If he shies or frightens, soothe and en- 
 courage him rather than beat and abuse him. 
 
 A horse has a smaller stomach than an ox, 
 and consequently he must be fed less at a time. 
 
6i 
 
 He has less power to digest coarse foods. He 
 eats much slower, as he must do all his chewing 
 before the food is swallowed. For these reasons 
 he requires a longer time to eat. and his food 
 should be more concentrated. 
 
 The practice of feeding the horse immediately 
 after very hard work and when he is tired is alto- 
 gether too common. Wait a bit. And do not 
 water right after eating. The horse should 
 remain quiet for a full hour before starting on the 
 road or at hard work after heavy feeding. 
 
 Did you ever get in your mouth or on your 
 plate some potato that had soured in the hot 
 weather ? If so you know something of the 
 misery a horse must suffer when compelled to take 
 all his food from a sour manger. Sourness is 
 easily detected and easily cured by a pail of 
 scalding water. A pinch of charcoal dust thrown 
 in the manger daily will help keep things sweet 
 and prevent acidity in the horse's stomach. 
 
 The breath of a horse or any other animal 
 upon his food is unwholesome. For this reason 
 put into the manger only food enough for one meal. 
 
 Meal is not a natural food for a horse which 
 can chew well. It is eaten too fast and does not 
 get enough saliva with it to digest well. The 
 saliva is the first secretion in the process of diges- 
 tion, and it must do its part to have the food 
 agree fully with the animal. 
 
 Green forage crops must be fed with discre- 
 tion and not largely at first, or the result will be 
 profuse sweating, resulting in weakness, and some- 
 times colic. It is never safe to turn horses with 
 
62 
 
 strong, unsatisfied appetites for green crops loose 
 in the rank growth. 
 
 Potatoes are an excellent food for horses 
 during the winter, in connection with other food, 
 keeping their bowels open and their skins loose. 
 
 There is nothing better than sweet apples to 
 help put a horse in fine condition. Give four 
 quarts at a mess three times a day with the grain. 
 Few people realise the value of sweet apples as a 
 relish for horses. But potatoes and apples should 
 be cut up before feeding them to avoid danger 
 from choking. 
 
 Experienced horsemen understand that with a 
 heavy feed of oats, at night, and a light breakfast, 
 a horse gets a reserved stock of muscular strength 
 laid in in advance, and travels faster and further 
 than one having a hearty morning meal. 
 
 Spasmodic salting is all wrong for any animal, 
 and especially for horses. It may cause colic, and 
 often does. The horse eats too much salt at a 
 time, if only salted now and then, and when this is 
 the case the coats of the stomach and bowels are 
 irritated, and congestion takes place, and ex- 
 cessive thirst. A lump of rock salt in the 
 manger is the better way. 
 
 Teamsters should feed their own horses, and 
 every teamster who takes pride in his team should 
 handle the measure himself, and should make 
 appetite and digestion of food a subject of study. 
 
 Horses refuse their feed because of over- 
 work, too little exercise, or because the food is 
 not of good quality, soreness of mouth or teeth, 
 
63 
 
 or general faulty management. If the trouble is 
 due to overfeeding, short rations for a day or two 
 will remedy it. Food that is not eaten within a 
 reasonable time should be removed from the 
 manger, and the ration correspondingly reduced. 
 No animal should have more than it will eat up 
 clean. When a horse refuses to eat and becomes 
 thin and weak for no apparent reason, something 
 is the matter with him. Call a first-class 
 veterinarian. 
 
 The digestion of food is frequently badly re- 
 tarded or prevented by mistakes in watering. 
 Water should always be offered the horse before 
 he is fed, and never less .than an hour or two hours 
 after feeding. The drink is rapidly taken from 
 the stomach by the intestines, and the time men- 
 tioned is sufficient to distribute three or four 
 gallons of water throughout the digestive tract, 
 diluting the salivary secretion so as to supply all 
 water needed for digestion of the food. When 
 regular watering is practised no water will be 
 craved soon after food. To observe this method 
 prevents the washing of undigested food from the 
 stomach into the intestines, where it ferments, 
 producing gas and resulting in colic. 
 
 Some teamsters start a balky horse by lifting 
 and examining his feet, shifting some part of the 
 harness, doing something that gets his mind 
 turned into another direction. 
 
 Generally it is the driver who is responsible. 
 It's the ignorant driver who makes the balky 
 horse. 
 
 If the horse kicks the side of the stall he can 
 
64 
 
 probably be broken of the habit by hanging a 
 smooth stick of wood from the joist above by a 
 rope, so that when he indulges his vice, his feet 
 or legs will strike the stick. This will put it in 
 motion ; it will swing back and forth and take his 
 attention so he will forget about kicking. This is 
 a pretty sure cure. 
 
 If the horse paws in the stable, turn him out 
 every day for a run in the yard. When driven 
 every day he will not paw, unless fed irregularly. 
 
 If you cannot stop your horse from bolting his 
 food by putting a handful of shelled corn in his 
 manger, give him cut hay with ground food. He 
 will masticate that. 
 
 A very bad habit in a horse is that of sudden 
 starting when harnessed, and often leads to 
 broken traces and swingletrees, and to runaways 
 and smashups. The fault is usually taught the 
 horse by a fool driver who cuts him with a whip 
 unexpectedly. A vice of this kind in a horse that 
 is afraid of the whip is rarely cured, but may be 
 mitigated by gentleness. 
 
 An unnecessarily cruel thing about a harness 
 is a tight throat-strap. Don't leave it so loose 
 that the bridle can be rubbed off" during fly-time, 
 but see that it does not press the throat when the 
 head is up, thus cutting off the breath, stopping 
 the blood and causing a swelling of the throat 
 glands. 
 
 It is cruel to make a horse work in a hard, 
 ill-fitting collar. How do you like a shoe that 
 causes blisters, corns and bunions on your feet ? 
 
6s 
 
 CARE OF THE HARNESS. 
 
 Every horse should have two collars, to be 
 changed daily. Both collars should be padded to 
 fit smoothly and flat to the surface covered, and 
 should not present bumps, ridges, or be too close. 
 By using two collars, sore necks and shoulders 
 may be avoided, as the pressure and friction will 
 be better distributed. Use leather collars only, 
 for sweat collars, being soft and warm, make a 
 horse's hide tender where it should be tough. 
 Inspect your harness carefully. Thread knots 
 and tacks will produce sores. Keep the harness 
 clean by scraping with a dull knife and rubbing 
 with a mixture of tallow and lard. The harness 
 treated in this way will last longer, look better, 
 and by its flexibility be more comfortable for the 
 horse. Be sure to scrape the collar every day and 
 to rub it off with a greased rag. Accumulations 
 of dirt and dandruff caked on the collar by sweat 
 make it rough, and sores will result. Many of 
 the chains, rings and buckles on your harness are 
 quite unnecessary, and are meant only for show. 
 Where they are unnecessary, take them off, and 
 you will enable your horse to draw or carry a 
 heavier load, and be more comfortable in doing so. 
 Don't buckle the belly band or other straps too 
 tight. Neither man nor horse works well when 
 tightly girthed. Be sure that the bit is just right, 
 so that the horse's mouth and tongue need not be 
 
66 
 
 injured. A rusty bit may produce a cankered 
 mouth. An icy bit in winter may take the skin oflE 
 a horse's mouth and tongue, and if it doesn't do 
 that, set up a toothache. If the bridle is buckled 
 too tight the horse's mouth will be stretched most 
 painfully. 
 
 The harnessing of horses is a matter of com- 
 mon-sense. The driver's object should be to have 
 no more and no heavier harness than is necessary 
 for the work and to have it well-fitted, and 
 adapted to enable the animal to draw his load, and 
 back it, with most ease. These remarks apply to 
 draught horses particularly. A draught horse 
 pulls his load by two separate forces — first by his 
 weight, and then by his muscles. Drivers, there- 
 fore, should adapt his harness so that he may 
 throw all his weight into his collar when that is 
 necessary. This cannot be done by a horse when 
 Bearing-reins are used ; and it follows that such 
 a horse is placed at a disadvantage when he has to 
 put out his strength. And worse, the poor animal 
 in trying to put out his strength relies solely on 
 his muscles, for he cannot throw his weight fully 
 into the collar, and he therefore is made to struggle 
 and flounder about sometimes until he falls, or 
 sprains his muscles. Perhaps there is no more 
 distressing sight than a plucky cart horse, reined 
 back tight to the hames, when ascending a hill 
 with a heavy load. Every driver knows the truth 
 of this, for his common sense has condemned it 
 many times. It is with a view of inducing drivers 
 to employ their common sense in considering this 
 kind of folly that these remarks have been written. 
 
<0 Clf) 
 
 •IS S 
 
 ^ -2 
 
 
 i 
 
67 
 
 Our illustrations on the opposite page show a 
 horse fastened up tight with a Hame-rein, pulling 
 a load up a slight hill. Common-sense tells the 
 reader that the horse is in pain. The pressure on 
 his mouth is terrible every time the animal 
 presses his weight forward, and this checks him, 
 and he struggles, slips, and scratches with his toes 
 as he places them on the ground. As we want 
 common-sense drivers to see the truth, we have 
 not selected a severe case of suffering — but a very- 
 common sight. We ask the reader to think on 
 the photograph until he comprehends what a 
 plucky horse feels, and what the reader would feel 
 too, if his own head were tied back when he had 
 to draw a heavy load in a truck, or to wheel a 
 well-laden barrow. Let him compare it with the 
 next picture, where the horse ascends a much 
 steeper hill with comparative ease and comfort, 
 although, as we have purposely showa him, 
 inferior in strength to the first horse. Can there 
 be any doubt which is the right and which is 
 wrong ? 
 
 If a horse cannot lay to his work and bend his 
 neck forward, be sure he is not properly harnessed. 
 If he has to do his work in a cramped position, he 
 cannot exert his full power, which is so much loss 
 to his master. If forced to perform heavy work, 
 then he is obliged to waste a great deal more of 
 his strength (or muscular power) than is required, 
 to his own great pain and injury. The second 
 picture shows that the act of pulling is performed, 
 as we have already said, by leaning forward, by 
 the weight of the body against the resistance of 
 
68 
 
 the opposing force, and then, by strong move- 
 ments of the limbs, keeping up and increasing the 
 pressure ; the weight of the body being of the ut- 
 most importance, as anyone may try by pulling at 
 a rope passed over one shoulder, his body being 
 leaned forward ; and then while the body is bolt 
 upright, and not leaning at all. It will be found 
 that what was before pulled with ease cannot now 
 be moved at all, or at any rate, only by the most 
 severe and continued use of the limbs. These 
 muscular movements, by exhausting the strength, 
 try the system violently, whereas the body weight 
 is easily employed, without consuming the vital 
 energies. This may be tested upon the next hill 
 the reader arrives at. 
 
 All these remarks will commend themselves to 
 the common sense of carters, if they will think on 
 the subject. They have been made by common- 
 sense men, and proved in practice by common- 
 sense persons, who have given up the Hame-rein 
 in consequence. 
 
 One day the writer saw a carter loosen his 
 horse's Hame-rein at the foot of a hill. He said 
 to the driver, " What are you doing that for, my 
 good man ? " The carter smiled, and answered 
 thus : " Don't you see that hill ? How could I 
 expect my horse to pull this load up there unless 
 I let him have his head free ? " It was strange 
 that the driver did not see his words condemned 
 the Hame-rein altogether ; but he did not. 
 Therefore the writer rejoined, " It is right, no 
 doubt, to let a horse's head be free going up hill, 
 
69 
 
 but why did you keep it reined up tight and make 
 the poor creature uncomfortable, all the distance 
 you have travelled with that heavy load ? " He 
 replied, " He can get along well enough on level 
 road with it." The writer answered, " Then of 
 what use is it ? You admit it is injurious going 
 up hill, and that it does not prevent the animal 
 from getting along somehow on level road. Why 
 have it at all if it does not help — Why have it if 
 it makes the animal uncomfortable ? " The 
 carter said, " Well, I fancy it isn't much good — 
 but it is the fashion, and so I use it." The carter 
 began to think on the subject then and there, left 
 off the Hame-rein in the course of the same week, 
 and afterwards admitted that nothing could 
 induce him to put it on again. 
 
70 
 THE HORSE'S PRAYER, 
 
 To THEE, MY MASTER, I offer my prayer : Feed me, 
 water and care for me, and, when the day's work is done, 
 provide me with shelter, a clean dry bed and a stall wide enough 
 for me to lie down in comfort. 
 
 Always be kind to me. Talk to me. Your voice often 
 means as much to me as the reins. Pet me sometimes, that 
 I may serve you the more gladly and learn to love you. Do 
 not jerk the reins, and do not whip me when going uphill. 
 Never strike, beat or kick me when I do not understand what 
 you want, but give me a chance to understand you. Watch 
 me, and if I fail to do your bidding, see if something is not 
 wrong with my harness or feet. 
 
 Do not check me so that I cannot have the free use of 
 my head. If you insist that I wear blinkers, so that I cannot 
 see behind me as it was intended I should, I pray you be care- 
 ful that the blinkers stand well out from my eyes. 
 
 Do not overload me, or hitch me where water will drip 
 on me. Keep me well shod. Examine my teeth when I do 
 not eat, I may have an ulcerated gum or decayed tooth, and that, 
 you know, is very painful. Do not tie my head in an unnatural 
 position, or take away my best defence against flies and mos- 
 quitoes by cutting off my tail. 
 
 I cannot tell you when I am thirsty, so give me clean cool 
 water often. Save me, by all means in your power, from that 
 fatal disease — the glanders. I cannot tell you in words when 
 I am sick, so watch me, that by signs you may know my 
 condition. Give me all possible shelter from the hot sun, and 
 put a blanket on me, not when I am working but when I am 
 standing in the cold. Never put a frosty bit in my mouth ; 
 first warm it by holding it a moment in your hands. 
 
 I try to carry you and your burdens without a murmur, 
 and wait patiently for you long hours of the day or night. 
 Without the power to choose my shoes or path, I sometimes 
 fall on the hard pavements which I have often prayed might 
 not be of wood but of such a nature as to give me a safe and 
 sure footing. Remember that I must be ready at any moment 
 to lose my life in your service. 
 
 And finally, O MY MASTER, when my useful strength is 
 gone, do not turn me out to starve or freeze, or sell me to some 
 cruel owner, to be slowly tortured and starved to death ; but 
 do Thou, My Master, take my life in the kindest way, and your 
 God will reward you here and hereafter. You will not con- 
 sider me irreverent if I ask this in the name of Him who was 
 bom in a Stable. Amen. 
 
To KILL A HORSE HUMANELY. 
 Be careful not to shoot lower than the place marked above. 
 
 Every Farmer, Knacker and ^Horse Breeder should have on his 
 premises one of the R.S.P.C.A, Slaughtering Pistols.* 
 
 * On receipt of a postcard to i05, Jermyn Street, an lUastrated 
 Pamphlet on the subject will be forwarded gratis. 
 
NOTES. 
 
NOTES 
 
THE LATEST R.S P.C.A. PAMPHLETS 
 ON THE SUBJECT OF THE HORSE. 
 
 Single Copies of these Pamphlets may be had on application. 
 
 post or rail 
 No. 
 
 I JiORSES 
 
 39 
 
 The Council, being anxious to encourage the inculcation of the 
 principles of the Society, earnestly calls attention to the following 
 ]niljiications, which are intended to show the importance of kindness 
 to Ining creatures. Any of these pamplilets will be forwarded by 
 upon receipt of remittance. 
 
 Per loo 
 —The Prayer of a Horse (Card ii in. by 9 in.), id. 
 
 each ... ... ... ... ... ... 6 o 
 
 A few words to Stablemen (Card 11 in. by 9 in.), 
 
 id. each ... ... ... ... ... ... 6 o 
 
 Common-Sense remarks on Bearing Reins ... 6 o 
 
 Take off that Hame-Rein (Picture Pamphlet) ... 3 o 
 The Horse : Hero or Beggar ? By E. G. Fair- 
 holme ... ... ... ... ... each o z 
 
 A Horse's Petition to his Driver (Small Card) ... 3 o 
 
 (Large Card) ... ') o 
 
 The Horse Book : Simple Rules for Keeping a 
 
 Horse ... ... ... ... ... each o G 
 
 The Prayer of a Horse (Pamphlet) ... ... 2 o 
 
 Bearing-reins : a Word to the Thoughtless ... i o 
 
 The Hame-rein : Dapple's Appeal ... ... ... 3 o 
 
 The Crime of Docking Horses, bv Stephen H. 
 
 Terry ... ... ... ... ... each o ^ 
 
 Downhill : The Story of a Horse, by Eva Rich- 
 mond 
 How to Treat Domestic Animals : The Horse 
 A Few Words to Owners of Horses per doz. 
 
 Horse-Drivers ... per doz. 
 
 Stablemen ... per doz. 
 
 With and without Hame Reins (Double Demy 
 Poster, two illustrations), Coloured each 
 
 N\'ith and without the Bearing Reins (Double Demy 
 Poster, two illustrations). Coloured each 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 EDWARD G. FAIRHOLME, Secretary, R.S.P.C.A., 
 105, Jermyn Street, London S.W. 
 
 :.. & N. p.-s- 
 
N