V>'iAV''; 
 
 «*<- 
 
 ■/,^:y 
 
 i0*^ 
 
 ip. 
 
 iif-uMfft'' I - 
 
 6t 
 
 L/#fc^M \ 
 
 mwmm 
 
 :si4.SiOL'.«mlT 
 
 )ipli^i%J^kl 
 
 tVH.^l«LVI l.'liVU.V 
 
/. 77 
 
 K^>? 
 
TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 
 
 3 9090 013 418 435 
 
 I 
 
 Websier Family Library of Vetennary Madioine 
 CufTimlngs School of Voterinary IViedicine at 
 Tufts University 
 200 Westbcro Road 
 North Grafton. MA 01536 
 
PLAIN TREATISE 
 
 or 
 
 HORSE-SHOEING, 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM MILES, Esq., 
 
 AUTHOR OF "the HORSE'S FOOT, ETC." 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 (successor to E. L. CAREY,) 
 Ko. 7 HART'S BUILDIXGS, SIXTH ST. ABOVE CHESTNUT. 
 
 1856. 
 
t^, 
 
 STEREOTYPED I!Y L. JOHNSON b CO. 
 
 PHIl.ADELPHIA. 
 PRINTED BY T. K. ANB P. G. COLLINS. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Horse-Shoeing 5 
 
 Preparing the Foot 7 
 
 The Shoe 12 
 
 Choosing a Shoe 13 
 
 Cutting off the Heels 14 
 
 The Nail-Holes IG 
 
 Fitting the Shoe 19 
 
 Filing up the Shoe 29 
 
 Nails '. 80 
 
 Nailing on the Shoe 32 
 
 Shoeing with Leather 34 
 
 The Hind-Shoe 37 
 
 Cutting 42 
 
 Bemoving 42 
 
 General Observations '. 44 
 
C'^ 
 
I- 
 
 HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 It has been suggested to me, by several corre- 
 spondents, that a plain, practical treatise on Horse- 
 Shoeing, divested of all other matters, connected 
 with the soundness of the horse's foot, would be 
 very acceptable to many working smiths, who have 
 neither the time nor the inclination to wade throusrh 
 a work where what they want to find is mixed 
 up with other matters, which do not bear upon 
 their vocation. To the production of such a treatise 
 I now set myself, in the hope that, however much 
 I may fall short of my wishes, I may still in some 
 degree supply a want which has long been felt by 
 many. The books at present in use are written 
 in a style that most smiths find it difficult to 
 follow; my aim, therefore, shall be to convey the 
 information I have to ofier in the simplest lan- 
 
 1« 5 
 
6 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 guage I can command, and such as the least- 
 informed among them are familiar with. But, be- 
 fore I enter upon the subject of shoeing, I must 
 notice two things, which we must not only believe, 
 but act upon, if we ever hope to arrive at really 
 good shoeing: the first is, that nature has given 
 to what horsemen call a good-shaped foot the 
 form best suited to the horse's wants; and the 
 second is, that the hoof expands when the horse's 
 weight is thrown upon it, and contracts when it 
 is taken off again. But the mere belief in these 
 things will be of no use, unless we make the shoe 
 to fit the foot, and nail it on in such a manner 
 as will allow the hoof to expand and contract; 
 for we might as well not believe at all, as believe 
 a thing to be right, and not do it. 
 
 Nailing an iron shoe to a living horse's foot is 
 a very unnatural thing to do; but, as it must be 
 done, it is our duty to see how we can do it 
 with the least injury to the horse. To show this, 
 I will suppose myself addressing a young smith, 
 who is about to shoe his first horse. 
 
PREPARING THE FOOT. 7 
 
 PREPAKING THE FOOT. 
 
 You must begin by taking off one of the old 
 sboes^ and I say one, because the other should 
 always be left on, for the horse to stand upon : 
 he is sure to stand quieter upon a shod foot than 
 he can upon a bare one; and it will prevent his 
 breaking the crust. Raise every one of the clenches 
 with the buffer, and, if the shoe will not then 
 come off easily, loosen some of the nails with the 
 punch; but never tear the shoe off by main force: 
 it splits the crust, and widens the nail-holes. . The 
 shoe being off, you should rasp the edge of the 
 hoof all round, and take out any stubs that may 
 be left in the crust. Then you must pare out the 
 foot; and this requires both care and thought. If 
 the horse has a strong, upright foot, with plenty 
 of horn, you should shorten the toe, lower the 
 heels and crust, and cut out the dead horn from 
 the sole, and also from the corners between the 
 heels and the bars; the best way of doing this 
 is to pare the bars down nearly even with the 
 
8 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 sole, and then you can get at the dead horn in 
 the corners more easily. The part of the bar 
 which stands up above the sole would have been 
 worn away, or broken down, if the shoe had not 
 kept the hoof off the ground 5 therefore you had 
 better always pare it down, but on no account 
 ever cut any thing away from the sides of the bars, 
 or what is called "open out the heels;" and be 
 sure that you never touch the frog with a 
 knife. Now remember that there are three things 
 which you must never do in paring out a foot: 
 you must never cut the sides of the bars, or open 
 out the heels, or pare the frog; and I will tell 
 you why you must never do them. 
 
 The bars are placed where they are, to keep 
 the heels from closing in upon the frog; and if 
 you trim them by cutting their sides, you weaken 
 them, and they can no longer do it, and the foot 
 begins to contract. 
 
 Opening out the heels does exactly the same 
 thing, by weakening the very parts which nature 
 placed there to keep the heels apart. Now it 
 
*4 
 
 PREPARING THE FOOT. 9 
 
 takes some time to contract a horse's foot so as 
 to lame him, and, because the contraction comes 
 on by slow degrees, no one notices it, until the 
 horse falls lame, and then every one wonders what 
 can have done it; but very few hit upon the right 
 cause. 
 
 The frog is a thick, springy cushion, whose chief 
 use is to protect a very important joint, called the 
 navicular joint, and it is covered by a thin layer 
 of horn, to keep in the moisture; and every time 
 you slice off any of the frog, you lay bare a part 
 that was never meant to be exposed to the air, 
 and it dries, and cracks, and forms rags, which 
 are cut off at every fresh shoeing, until the whole 
 frog becomes as dry and hard as a board; and 
 the horse gets an incurable disease, called "na- 
 vicular disease;" therefore I say, leave the frog 
 alone; it will never grow too large, for, long 
 before that would happen, the outer covering will 
 shell off, and a new horny covering will be found 
 underneath; and as to the rags, leave them alone 
 also, and they will fall off of themselves. 
 
10 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 A weak, flat foot will bare very little paring or 
 rasping; the crust of such a foot is sure to be 
 thin at the toe, low at the heels, and the sole 
 thin and weak; therefore, the less you do to it 
 the better, beyond getting rid of the little dead 
 horn there may be, and making the crust level 
 where it is to bear upon the shoe; this must be 
 done to all feet, and, as the inner quarter, w^here 
 there should be no nails, does not wear away as 
 fast as the outer quarter, where the nails are 
 driven, you should always place a rasp upon its 
 edge across the foot, to be quite sure that the 
 two sides are level. I have known shoes lost from 
 the inside quarter being higher than the outside, and 
 causing the foot to bear unevenly on the shoe. 
 
 Before you pare out a foot, you should always 
 think of the state of the roads; and if they are 
 dry, and covered with loose stones, or have been 
 lately repaired, you should take very httle off the 
 sole of any foot, because, if you thin it, the stones 
 will bruise it; but when the season is wet, and 
 the stones worn in, you may pare out the sole of 
 
PLATE 1 
 
 >r"„'^:-^^3*>. 
 
 
 B 
 
 HeRLINE&CO.LlTH.PHIL* 
 
PREPARING THE FOOT. 11 
 
 a strong foot until it will yield to hard pressure 
 from your thumbs; but you must never pare it 
 thin enough to yield to light pressure. 
 
 Plate I. shows a good-shaped near forefoot, 
 pared out ready for shoeing. I have placed letters 
 against the different parts. The toe reaches from 
 A to A, the letter B shows the middle of each 
 quarter, and C marks the heels. You will observe 
 that the crust is thicker on the outer quarter, 
 where the nails should be, than it is on the inner 
 quarter, where a nail must never be driven ; and 
 you will also see that the hoof is not a circle, 
 as some suppose, but is straighter on the inside 
 than it is on the outside. D marks the sole: E 
 shows the upper part of the bars, pared down 
 nearly level with the sole. F shows that part 
 of the bars which must never be touched by a 
 knife; G marks the frog, and is placed just over 
 the situation of the navicular joint. I would ad- 
 vise you to examine this frog well, because it is 
 what every horse's frog should look like, — plump, 
 and full, and even, with a broad, shallow cleft, 
 
12 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 not split tlirougli at the back part; and, if you 
 shoe your horses properly, and never pare the frog, 
 it is what their frogs will come to in time. 
 
 THE SHOE. 
 
 Before I talk about the shoe, I must settle 
 names for the upper and under surfaces ^ because 
 I fear I should mislead those who are not smiths, 
 if I call the part that rests upon the ground "the 
 upper surface," as smiths do; I shall therefore 
 call that part of the shoe "the ground surface;" 
 and the part which goes next the foot I shall 
 call "the foot surface;" and then there can be no 
 mistake as to which surface I mean. 
 
 In turning your store shoes "in the rough," 
 you should leave them longer at the heels than 
 smiths generally do: we shall see the reason for 
 it when we come to "fitting the shoe;" and 
 you should make the web as wide at the heels 
 as it is at the toe, and of the same thickness 
 throughout from the toe back to the heels. The 
 
CHOOSING A SHOE. 1 
 
 o 
 
 ^^ fuller" slioulcl be carried quite round the shoe 
 to the heels, and the fuUering-iron should have 
 both sides alike. It is a far better tool than the 
 one-sided iron in common use, which is generally 
 so narrow and sharp that it not only makes the 
 groove too small for the heads of the nails to 
 sink into, but it often splits the shoe. A narrow 
 groove may look neater than a wide one; but you 
 will find a wide one much more useful. 
 
 CHOOSING A SHOE. 
 
 The first thing to look to in choosing a shoe 
 is the kind of foot you have to deal with. If 
 the foot is a strong, good-shaped one, it will be 
 an easy matter to find a shoe for it; only take 
 care that the web is not too narrow, and that 
 the shoe is not too light. A light shoe is apt 
 to bend before it is half worn out; and the pain 
 caused by the pressure of the bent nails against 
 the tender lining of the hoof throws the horse 
 do^vn, and most likely breaks his knees. If the 
 
 2 
 
14 TREATISE ON HORSE- SHOEING. 
 
 foot should be flat, with a weak, brittle crust, you 
 must still choose a stout shoe; for a horse with 
 such a foot could not go at all upon a bent shoe; 
 and the shoe must have a wide web, because the 
 sole is sure to be thin and will need plenty of 
 cover to protect it. 
 
 You must also look to the seating; for, if the 
 foot is weak and flat, the shoe must be well seated 
 out, to prevent its pressing upon and bruising the 
 sole; but if the foot is strong, and the sole 
 arched, there need not be more seating than will 
 allow the point of a picker to pass freely round 
 between the sole and the shoe; otherwise dirt and 
 small stones will get in, and bruise the sole as 
 much as the shoe w^ould do if it pressed upon it. 
 
 CUTTING OFF THE HEELS. 
 
 Having fixed upon a shoe to your mind, begin 
 by cutting off the heels: and you will find a half- 
 round chisel a better tool for the purpose than a 
 straight one, because you should never cut them 
 
PLATE U 
 
 #\ A 
 
 HERLINE&CO.LlTH.PHILt 
 
CUTTING OFF THE HEELS. 15 
 
 off square; if jou do, you will find it impossible 
 to fit the shoe properly to the heels, and at the 
 same time keep the web as wide at the heels as 
 it is at the toe; fdr one of the corners of the 
 shoe will be sticking into the frog, while the 
 other stands out beyond the crust; but if you cut 
 them off as shown in Plate II., Fig. 1, you will 
 have no difficulty in bringing ev^y part of the 
 shoe into its proper place upon the foot. Fig. 1 is 
 a shoe turned in the rough; and the dotted lines 
 show the direction in which the heels should be 
 cut off. The side next the frog should be cut off 
 from C to B, and the outer corner from A to B, and 
 then the shoe will look like Fig. 2, which with 
 a little hammering over the beak of the anvil will 
 soon come like Fig. 3: you will see that the 
 points, marked A in Fig. 2, have disappeared in 
 Fig. 3, and that the parts between A and B on 
 each side have become a portion of the outer rim 
 of the shoe; whereby the outer rim is length- 
 ened, and the inner rim shortened; and there 
 are no corners left to interfere with your following 
 
16 • TREATISE ON HOESE-SHOEING. 
 
 the sweep of the heels, and you are enabled to 
 keep the web as wide at the heels as it is at 
 the toe. I have introduced Fig. 3 in this place, 
 because it gave me the opportunity of explaining 
 the reason for cutting off the heels as I have 
 directed; but at this stage of the business it is 
 a good plan always to leave the quarters and 
 heels rather straight, and wide apart, until you 
 have fitted the toe; because it is less trouble to 
 bring them in than it is to open them out after 
 the front has been fitted. 
 
 • 
 
 THE NAIL-HOLES. 
 
 You must next oj^en the nail-holes; but be 
 sure that they have been stamped so as to pass 
 straight through the shoe, and come out in the 
 flat part of the web and not partly in the flat 
 and partly in the seating. It is a very bad plan 
 to make them slant inwards, as most smiths do; 
 for in driving a nail they have first to pitch the 
 point inwards, then turn it outwards, driving it 
 
THE NAIL-HOLES. 17 
 
 all the time icitli the grain of the crusty and at 
 last they bring it out high up in the thinnest 
 part of the hoof, and have the weakest part of 
 the nail for a clench. Now, instead of all this, if 
 3^ou make the holes straight through the shoe, you 
 have only to drive the nail straight, and it will 
 go through the shoe across the grain of the crust 
 and come out low down in the thickest part of 
 the hoof, and give you a strong clench made out 
 of the shank of the nail instead of a weak one 
 made out of the point. The advantage of straight 
 holing is that '^ou are sure never to prick the 
 foot in driving a nail, and you get a firmer hold 
 for the shoe. Everybody knows that a short 
 purchase across the line of the strain is stronger 
 than a longer one in the direction of the strain. 
 
 The soundness of the horse's foot, as far as 
 shoeing is concerned, dej)ends more upon the 
 number of nails and where they are placed than 
 upon any thing else; for if the shoe is ever so 
 badly formed, and the nail-holes are rightly placed, 
 very little harm will happen to the foot beyond 
 
 2* 
 
18 TREATISE ON HORSE- SHOEING. 
 
 the loss of a slioe; but if the shoe is of the 
 best possible shape and fitted to the foot iii' the 
 most perfect manner^ unless the nail-holes are 
 placed so that the foot can expand, it must in 
 the end become unsound. 
 
 The portion of hoof that expands the most is 
 the inner quarter and heel. You must therefore 
 leave those parts free from nails; and the way 
 to do it is never to stamp more than two holes 
 on the inside of the shoe, one about an inch and 
 a quarter from the centre of the toe, and the other 
 about three-quarters of an inch bthind it. It is 
 quite clear that, if you nail both sides of a horse's 
 hoof to an iron shoe, the hoof will be held fast, 
 and cannot expand; and, when the horse's weight 
 forces the bones of the foot down into the hoof, 
 the tender lining of the hoof will be squeezed 
 against the shanks of the nails and cause pain 
 to the horse at every step he takes. The whole 
 number of nail-holes should never exceed five; 
 three on the outside, and two on the inside. I 
 have proved over and over again that five nails 
 
FITTIXG THE FOOT. -• . 19 
 
 • ^^ 
 
 will liolcl on a fore-slioe at any kind of work, in 
 any country and at any pace. If a shoe is pro- 
 perly fitted to the foot and fastened by five nails, 
 nothing but the smith's pincers can get it off. 
 
 Having cut off the heels and opened the nail- 
 holes, you must next turn up a clip at the toe. 
 Every shoe should have one at the toe; it keeps the 
 shoe steady, and prevents its being forced back. 
 But 3^ou never should put one at the side; for if it 
 is put on the inside it j)i'o vents the hoof expand- 
 ing; and on the outside it is worse than useless, 
 for the nails there are quite sufficient to keep the 
 shoe from working across the foot, and the clip will 
 interfere with the placing of one of the nails and 
 destroy more of the crust than two nails would do. 
 
 FITTING THE SHOE. 
 
 You must never forget that "fitting the shoe" 
 
 means making the shoe fit the foot, and not 
 
 making the foot fit the shoe, as I have often 
 seen done. 
 
20 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 It is a bad plan to try to fit the whole of the 
 shoe at once; it is much better and saves a 
 great deal of trouble to fit the toe first, then the 
 quarters, and lastly the heels: but, before you 
 begin to fit the toe, take a look at the old shoe, 
 and see how much of the toe of it is w^orn away, 
 because just so much of the new shoe should be 
 turned up away from the ground out of the line 
 of wear. 
 
 We all know that horses go better and stumble 
 less in old shoes than they do in new ones; and 
 the reason why they do so is because they have 
 worn away the toe, and no longer jar the foot by 
 striking the toe against hard substances in the 
 road. A new shoe turned up at the toe is the 
 same thing to the horse as an old one worn 
 down, but with this great difference to his comfort : — 
 that he is easy upon the new one from the time 
 it is first put on, whereas he was never easy upon 
 the old one until he had worn the toe away. 
 
 When a horse wears his shoe hard at the toe, 
 it is the custom of most smiths to weld a lump 
 
lA/^i ■ 
 
 
 HERLINE&CO.LITH.PHIL^ 
 
s 
 
1^ 
 
 FITTIIsG THE SHOE. 21 
 
 of steel on to it, to make him longer in wearing it 
 away; but this only increases the jar to his foot, 
 w^hile turning up the toe makes the shoe last quite 
 as long, and saves the horse from a great deal of 
 unnecessary suffering. A strong foot will bear 
 the toe to be turned u|) a good deal; but a flat 
 foot is always weak at the toe, and will not bear 
 much. Still, the shoe should be turned up a little, 
 so as to clear the ground; the horse will travel 
 safer and better for it. 
 
 You can make a very handy tool for turning 
 up the toe of a shoe by shutting a piece of iron, 
 five inches long and one inch broad, crosswise on 
 to each blade of a pair of smith's tongs; with 
 this tool you will be able to grasp both limbs of 
 the shoe at once, and not only turn up the toe 
 over the end of the anvil, but restore the seating 
 at the toe without bending the shoe or putting 
 it out of shape, which you could not do by hold- 
 ing one limb at a time in common tongs, without 
 a great deal of trouble. Plate III. shows you this 
 tool in use with the ground-surface of the shoe 
 
22 TREATISE OX HORSE-SIIOEING. 
 
 uppermost for turning up the toe; and you liave 
 only to reverse it, keeping the same grasp of the 
 shoe, and the foot-surface will come uppermost, 
 ready to have the seating made good. 
 
 I will now suppose that you have shortened the 
 toe of the hoof, rasped away the crust to receive 
 the turned-up shoe, cut a notch for the clip, and 
 turned up the toe of the shoe: you had better 
 next spring the heels to prevent their burning 
 the back part of the crust while you are fitting 
 the shoe to the fore part; but you must bring 
 them down again before you fit the quarters and 
 heels, and never leave them sprung when the shoe 
 is nailed on. 
 
 You must now put the toe of the shoe in the 
 fire, and make it hot enough to mark the uneven 
 portions of horn, which should be rasped away 
 until an even bed is left for the shoe to rest 
 upon. You need not fear to burn the toe of a 
 strong foot; it can do no harm; but a weak foot 
 with a thin crust of course will not bear much 
 burning. Still, the shoe should be made hot enough 
 
FITTING THE SHOE. 23 
 
 to scorcli tlie horn and show where it fails to fit 
 close. 
 
 When the toe is once properly fitted, there will 
 be very little trouble in fitting the quarters and 
 heels. You have only to bring them in over the 
 beak of the anvil until the edge of the shoe ranges 
 with the edge of the hoof back to the farthest 
 point of the heel on each side, and continue the 
 same sweep until it nearly touches the frog. There 
 must be none of the shoe left sticking out beyond 
 the hoof, either behind or at the sides of the heels. 
 
 I know that a great many smiths are very fond 
 of what are called "open-heeled shoes," which 
 means shoes with straight heels, wide apart, and 
 projecting beyond the hoof, both behind and at the 
 sides; and the only reason I have ever heard in 
 favor of such shoes is a very bad one, — viz. : that 
 the horse requires more support at the heels than 
 he gets from the hoof. But you may depend upon 
 it that nature has made no mistake about it; and 
 if the horse really wanted more support than he 
 gets from the heels of the hoof, he would have had 
 
24 TEEATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 it. But I think I shall prove to you that this kind 
 of shoGj instead of being a benefit to the horse^ is a 
 positive evil to him: it interferes with his action^ 
 and exposes his sole and frog to serious injury 
 from stones in the road, and the projecting por- 
 tions of the shoe become ledges for stiff ground to 
 cling to and pull the shoe off. More shoes are 
 lost through these mischievous projections at the 
 heels than from all other causes put together. 
 
 Let us see how it is that these projecting heels 
 interfere with the horse's action. It is not neces- 
 sary for this purpose to trouble you with the 
 anatomy of the foot, but merely to state that all 
 its parts are joined to each other in such a man- 
 ner as to form one great spring, and that the foot 
 is joined to the leg by the pastern and coronet 
 bones in a direction slanting forward, which brings 
 the foot a little in advance of the leg, and places 
 the heels in front of a line dropped from the centre 
 of the fetlock joint to the ground. 
 
 Plate VIII., Fig. 3. — 1. The shank or canon bone. 
 2. The pastern bone. 3. The coronet bone. 4. The 
 
PLATEAU 
 
 FiS.lJ 
 
 Fi2.2 
 
 Fig.-t 
 
 HERLINE & CO.LITH .PHIL* 
 
FITTING THE SHOE. 25 
 
 sessamoid bone. A. The point where the weight of 
 the horse would fall upon the upper end of the pas- 
 tern bone. B. The point where a hne dropped from 
 A would meet the ground. C. The heel of the hoof. 
 
 Now, it is clear that the weidit of the horse will 
 fall upon the upper end of this slanting pastern 
 bone at every step; and the bone, having a joint 
 at each end of it, will sink to the weight thus 
 thrown upon it and break the force of the shock 
 both to the leg and foot; but if the heels of the 
 shoe are longer than the heels of the hoof, the pro- 
 jecting pieces of iron will meet the ground farther 
 back than the natural heels would have done, and 
 will check the sinking of the pastern bone, just as 
 an upright pastern does, by bringing the heels too 
 much under the centre of the weight, which causes 
 the horse to step short and go stumpy. 
 
 If you wish to avoid these evils and keep the 
 horse's shoes on his feet, you must bring in the heels, 
 and let the shoe strictly follow the form of the foot, 
 whatever that form may be. 
 
 The part of the foot that needs protection from 
 
26 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 injury, more than any otlier, is tlie "navicular joint," 
 wliicli rests upon tlie frog about an inch or an inch 
 and a quarter behind its point; and the only way 
 to protect it is to keep the web of the shoe as wide 
 at the heels as it is at the toe, and to bring in the 
 heels until they nearly touch the frog. By so doing 
 you lessen the opening of the shoe, and the web of 
 one side or the other will strike upon the stones 
 in the road and save the frog frora coming with full 
 force upon them. But open-heeled shoes leave the 
 frog entirely exposed to very large stones, and cause 
 many a bruise to the navicular joint which lays the 
 foundation of future incurable lameness. 
 
 I have often seen shoes so wide at the heels that 
 I have placed my clenched hand within the opening 
 of the shoe without touching either side of it; and 
 where my fist could go a stone as large could go. 
 
 Another great advantage of bringing in the heels 
 and fitting the shoe close, is the certainty that the 
 horse will not cast his shoe: you leave nothing for 
 stiff ground to lay hold of, and, if you slightly 
 bevel the inside-quarter and heel of the shoe from 
 
FITTIXG THE SHOE. 27 
 
 the foot downwards^, no ground in the world can 
 pull it off, for the foot, expanding to the weight 
 of the horse, enlarges the hole made by the shoe 
 and leaves more space for the shoe to come out of 
 than it made for itself to go in at; but if the 
 shoe projects bej'ond the hoof at any part, and more 
 ^particularly at the heels, the foot cannot fill the 
 hole made by the shoe, and stiff clay will cling 
 round the projection and pull the shoe off. 
 
 Having so far finished the shoe, place it on the 
 face of the anvil with the toe hanging over the 
 side, and see that the foot-surface of the quarters 
 and heels are quite level; then make it hot enough 
 to scorch the hoof all round and form a bed for 
 itself; without this it would be next to impossible 
 to insure close fitting, for, after you have made 
 the foot as level as you can with the rasp and 
 the shoe as level as you can on the anvil, the 
 chances are very much against their fitting like two 
 planed boards, as they ought to do; and the quantity 
 of horn to be thus removed is so small as not to 
 be worth thinking about. It is a mistake to sup- 
 
28 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 pose tliat a hot shoe injures the hoof: it does 
 nothing of the kind; and you cannot possibly fit 
 a shoe properly without making it hot. I would 
 not have you burn a shoe into its place on the 
 foot before you had taken care to make both the 
 foot and the shoe as level as you could; but when 
 you have done that, the small quantity of burning 
 that is necessary to make them come close together 
 can do no harm. I have said before that a weak, 
 thin crust will not bear as much heat as a strong 
 one, and that the shoe should be applied less hot 
 to it; nevertheless, it must be scorched, that you 
 may be sure the shoe fits properly. 
 
 When you have cooled the shoe, you should 
 "back-hole" it, — that is, make a free opening on 
 the foot-surface for the nails to pass through; but 
 mind that in doing so you do not make the holes 
 incline inwards, by breaking down the inner edge 
 of the holes more than the outer edge. 
 
 Before you "file up" the shoe, hold it firmly in 
 its place on the foot with both hands, and examine 
 carefully whether any light a23pears between the 
 
B 1 
 
 PLATE IV. 
 
 Fi;^.! 
 
 B ti 
 
 B 
 
 Bl 
 
 HERLINE&CO.LITH.PHIL* 
 
FILING UP THE SHOE, 29 
 
 foot and tlie shoe, and, if you should perceive any, 
 alter the shoe at once; for the crust must bear 
 upon the shoe all round before you can say that 
 the shoe fits the foot as it ourfit to do. 
 
 FILING UP THE SHOE. 
 
 Much time is often wasted in polishing the shoe 
 with the file before it is nailed on; but all that 
 is really needed is to get rid of the burs about 
 the nail-holes, remove the sharp edges of the shoe, 
 and round off the heels; taking care to apply the 
 file hard to that part of both heels which comes 
 next to the frog, so as to slant it from the ground 
 upward and away from the frog; but you must 
 not narrow the ground-suYfixce of the web at the 
 heels in doing so. Plate 4 represents both surfaces 
 of a near fore-shoe; Fig. 1 shows the foot-surface, 
 and Fig. 2 the ground-surflice. 
 
 In Fig. 1, A is the clip at the toe, B 1 the outer 
 quarter, B 2 the inner quarter, C 1 the outer heel, 
 C 2 the inner heel, D the seating, E the flat sur- 
 
 3* 
 
30 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 face for the crust to bear upon, F tlie heels bevelled 
 off away from the frog. 
 
 In Fig. 2, A is the toe, turned up out of the 
 line of wearj B 1 the outer and B 2 the inner 
 quarter, C 1 the outer and C 2 the inner heel, 
 D the ground-surface of the web, as wdde at the 
 heels as it is at the toe, E tlie fullering, carried 
 all round the shoe. 
 
 NAILS. 
 
 I must say a few words about the nails before we 
 come to nailing on the shoe; because the nails in 
 common use are as badly formed as they well 
 can be. Their short wedge-shaped heads, wide at the 
 top and narrow at the bottom, with shanks spring- 
 ing suddenly from the head without any shoulder 
 and ending in a long, narrow point, are most 
 unsafe to trust a shoe to. The head of such a 
 nail can never perfectly fill the hole in the shoe, 
 for the wide top gets tied either in the fullering, 
 or the upper part of the hole, before the lower 
 
NAILS. 31 
 
 part lias reached tlie bottom, and when the head 
 is about half worn away the lower part is left loose 
 in the hole and the shoe comes off. Now the 
 nails I advise you to use — and you had better always 
 make them for yourself — should have heads which 
 are straight-sided at the upper part and gradually 
 die away into the shank at the lower part, so as 
 to form a shoulder which will block the opening 
 made in ^^back-holing" the shoe, and keep the shoe 
 firmly in its place until it is c|uite worn out. 
 
 If you compare the two nails I have drawn, you 
 will at once see which promises the firmer hold. 
 
 Your nails should be made of the very best nail- 
 rods you can get, and they should not be cooled too 
 c[uickly, but be left spread about to cool by degrees; 
 the longer in reason they are cooling, the tougher 
 they will become. They should not, however, be 
 allowed to lie in a heap to cool; the mass keeps in 
 the heat too Ions:, and makes them almost as brittle 
 as if they had been cooled too suddenly. 
 
32 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 NAILING ON THE SHOE. 
 
 If the nails are of a proper sliape^ the holes 
 straight through the shoe, and the shoe fits the 
 foot, it requires very little skill to nail it on; 
 only put the point of the nail in the middle of 
 the hole, keep the nail upright and drive it straight: 
 it must come out in the right place, low down in 
 the crust, without the possibility of wounding the 
 sensitive parts of the foot. The shank of the nail 
 will pass straight through the substance of the 
 crust and gain a good firm hold of it, leaving 
 you the strongest part from which to form a 
 clench. The clenches should be short and broad, 
 and not thinned by rasping away any of their sub- 
 stance, but hammered at once into a notch made 
 in the hoof under each, and the rasp should never 
 be allowed to go over them after they have been 
 hammered down; for the sharp steel rasp is very 
 apt to cut through the soft iron clench just where 
 it turns down, and leave the appearance of a clench, 
 when in truth, it has been cut off at the bend 
 
PLATE V. 
 
 Fis.l. 
 
 Fi^.2 
 
 HERLINE&CO.LITH.PHIL» 
 
NAILIXG OX THE SHOE. 33 
 
 and the loose end only remains buried in the 
 notch in the hoof. You will do good by rasping 
 heloio the clenches, because you will remove the 
 horn that has been destroyed by the former nails; 
 but on no account ever use the rasp ahove the 
 clenches. If you do, you will tear off the thin outer 
 covering of the hoof, which is placed there for the 
 purpose of retaining the natural moisture and 
 keeping the horn tough ; and if you rasp it away 
 you will expose the horn to the air, and it will 
 soon become dry and brittle and make the hoof 
 difficult to shoe. This thin covering of the hoof 
 is like the shining covering of a man's finger-nail; 
 and most people know from experience how dry 
 and brittle and easily broken a finger-nail becomes 
 when by any accident it loses that covering. 
 
 Plate y. represents the ground-surface of a near 
 fore-foot with the shoe nailed on by five nails. 
 Fig. 1 shows the shoe in its place on the foot, 
 and Fig. 2 represents the same shoe made trans- 
 parent, so that the j)^i'ts of the foot that are 
 covered by it are seen through it. A shows the 
 
34 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 crusty B the bars, and C the heels of the hoof 
 supported by the shoe. I have invariably found 
 that corns disappear altogether from a horse's foot 
 after it has been shod two or three times in this 
 manner, and that they never return while the 
 same method of shoeing is continued. 
 
 SHOEING WITH LEATHER. 
 
 Many tender-footed horses travel best with a 
 covering over the sole, and leather is commonly 
 used for the purpose; but I think gutta percha a 
 quarter of an inch thick, or waterproof felt of the 
 same thickness, answer better, because they both 
 resist wet and do not alter their shape as leather 
 does. When leather is wetted it becomes soft and 
 heavy and yielding; but in drying again it con- 
 tracts and hardens, causing a frequent change of 
 23ressure on the frog, which does not happen with 
 either of the other two substances. I have used felt 
 for the last three or four years, and prefer it very 
 much. But whichever covering you use, it must be 
 
SHOEIXG TTITH LEATHER. 35 
 
 put on in the same way; so I will at once tell you 
 how to do it. You must fit the shoe to the foot 
 with as much care as if nothing were to be put 
 under it; and when it is "filed up/' and ready to 
 be put on, lay it with the foot-surface downward 
 on the covering, whatever it may be, and mark the 
 form of the shoe upon it with the end of the draw- 
 ing-knife; then cut the piece out, put it in its 
 place upon the shoe, and fix them both in the vice, 
 which will hold them close together, while you 
 carefully cut the edge of the covering until it 
 agrees with the edge of the shoe; then turn them 
 in the' vice together, so as to bring the heels of the 
 shoe uppermost, and cut out a piece slightly curved 
 downward from heel to heel, that nothing may be 
 left projecting for the ground to lay hold of. The 
 next thing to do is to smear the whole of the 
 under-surface of the foot well with Barbadoes tar 
 mixed with a little grease; but be sure that you 
 never use gas-tar instead of the other; for it dries 
 up the horn and makes it as hard as flint, wliile 
 Barbadoes tar keeps it moist and tough. Then you 
 
36 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 must fill the hollow between the frog and the crust 
 on both sides with oakum (which is better for the 
 purpose than tow) dipped in the tar, pressing it 
 well into the hollow until the mass rises above the 
 level of the frog on each side; but never put any 
 oakum upon the frog itself, excepting a piece in the 
 cleft to prevent the dirt and grit working in; very 
 little is ever wanted on the sole in front of the frog. 
 The use of the oakum is to protect the foot, but 
 more especially the navicular joint, which lies above 
 and across the frog, from being jarred by stones on 
 a hard road; and the best way of doing this is to 
 fill the space on each side of the frog with oakum 
 in such a manner that it shall share the pressure 
 with the frog and prevent the full force of the 
 shock from falling on the navicular joint. 
 
 The usual mode of stopj)ing a foot is to place a 
 thick wad of tow over the whole surface of sole 
 and frog together, making bad worse, by adding 
 to the projection of the frog and causing it to 
 meet the ground sooner and receive the full force 
 of the jar. 
 
PLATE Yl. 
 
 /":: 
 
 ' i-V.^tervf-^O'^'*^*'* '* 
 
 HERHNT dCO.UT" phha 
 
THE HIND-SHOE. 37 
 
 You must now nail on the shoe with five nails, 
 exactly as you would do if there was nothing 
 under it; and if you have attended to the fit- 
 ting there will be no fear of the shoe shifting 
 or coming off. 
 
 Plate YL, Fig. 1, shows a foot stopped, ready for 
 shoeing. The ends of the oakum placed in the 
 cleft of the frog are collected together and carried 
 across the body of the frog, to be mixed with the 
 oakum on one side, which keeps it in its place in 
 the cleft and j)revents it from working out behind. 
 
 Fig. 2 shows a foot properly shod with leather, 
 and also the shape to which the leather should be 
 cut between the heels of the shoe. 
 
 THE HIND-SHOE. 
 
 The hind-shoe, like the fore-shoe, should be 
 brought in at the heels and be made to follow the 
 exact shape of the hoof; but, as the weight of the 
 horse falls differently upon the hind-feet to what 
 it does upon the fore-feet, and as the rider often 
 
 . • 
 
38 TKEATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 obliges the horse to stop suddenly and without 
 warning when he is least prepared to do so, it 
 becomes necessary to guard against strains of the 
 hock and back-sinews, by raising the heels of the 
 shoe ; but this should be done in such a manner as 
 will give both heels an even bearing upon the 
 ground. Calkins may be, and, I believe, are, useful 
 to heavy draught-horses, but they are objectionable 
 for fast w^ork ; and turning down the out side-heel 
 alone should never be done; it throws the weight 
 upon the inner quarter, which is the least able to 
 bear it, and strains the fetlock joint. The plan I 
 have adopted for many years is to have the last 
 inch and a half toward the heel forged thicker than 
 any other part of the shoe; the heels are then 
 made red-hot, and the shoe is put in the vice 
 with the hot heels projecting, which are beaten 
 down with a hammer until they are about an inch 
 long, and then the sides are made even and the 
 foot and ground-surfaces level on the anvil. I 
 have found horses travel pleasanter and receive 
 less damage to their hocks, back-sinews, and fetlock 
 
THE HIND-SHOE. 39 
 
 jointSj with these heels to their hind-shoes^ than 
 they have with any others that I have tried. 
 
 The toe of the hind-shoe is exposed to great 
 wear, and should be made stout and thick, and 
 rather pointed, with a small clip in the middle, to 
 prevent the shoe from being driven backward; and 
 the back-edge of the web should be rounded off, 
 to guard against " overreach." The toe should rest 
 fairly on the ground, to enable the horse to get 
 a good purchase for throwing his weight forward. 
 It is a bad plan to make the toe broad and to place 
 clips at the side of it ; it is almost sure to cause the 
 very evil it was intended to prevent, by making the 
 horse "forge," as it is called. 
 
 Many persons think that "forging" is caused 
 by the front of the toe of the hind-shoe striking 
 against the heel of the fore-shoe ; but that is a 
 mistake. The sound is produced in this way : when 
 the horse raises his fore-foot from the ground and 
 does not instantly throw it forward, but dwells in 
 the action, the hind-foot, following quickly, is 
 forced into the opening of the fore-shoe before 
 
40 TEEATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 the fore-foot gets out of tlie way; and the corners 
 of the broad toe^ made still broader by the clips at 
 the sides^ are struck against the inner rim of the web 
 of the fore-shoe on each side just behind the quarters, 
 and cause the unpleasant clicking sound. The 
 only way to avoid this disagreeable noise is to 
 make the hind-shoe narrow at the toe and rather 
 pointed, with the clip in the centre; and then the 
 point of the toe, clip and all, will enter the opening 
 of the fore-shoe held up to receive it, and be 
 stopped by the sole or frog before any part of 
 the two shoes can come together, and the noise 
 will cease. 
 
 I have said that you should round off the back- 
 edge of the web at the toe to prevent an "over- 
 reach." It is commonly supposed that this also is 
 done by the front of the toe ; whereas, it is always 
 done by the hack-edge^ which in a well-worn shoe 
 you will find is as sharp as a knife. Now, if the 
 horse in galloping does not lift his fore-foot from 
 the ground and throw it forward in time to make 
 way for the hind-foot, the hind-foot overreaches it, 
 
PLATE \l[ 
 
 Fial 
 
 HERLINE&CO.UTH.PHIL* 
 
THE HIND-SHOE. 41 
 
 and cuts a piece out of the soft parts above the 
 heel and produces a very troublesome wound. 
 
 The hmd-foot expands less than the fore-foot; 
 still, you should place the nail-holes so as not to 
 confine the foot. I have found four nails on the 
 outside and three on the inside sufficient to hold 
 any hind-shoe firmly to the foot. The holes on 
 the inside should be stamped closer together than 
 those on the outside, and tliey should be placed 
 forward toward the toe, so as to leave the inside 
 quarter and heel free to expand. A small foot 
 may be shod with three nails on each side ; but 
 no foot requires more than seven altogether. 
 
 Plate VII. represents a near hind-shoe. Fig. 1 
 shows a level surface for the foot to rest upon, 
 the raised heels and the thickened toe, with a small 
 clip in the centre. 
 
 Fig. 2 shows the toe rather pointed, the back edge 
 rounded, and the nail-holes properly placed. 
 
 4* 
 
42 TEEATISE ON HORSE-SHOEIN-G. 
 
 CUTTING. 
 
 Horses strike their feet against the opposite leg 
 in such a variety of ways, both before and behind, 
 that it is impossible to form a shoe that would 
 suit every case of "cutting." I therefore advise 
 you, whether the horse cuts before or behind, to 
 fasten something like a boot covered thickly with 
 wetted pipeclay over the place where he strikes 
 the leg, and then trot him along the road; he will 
 soon pick off some of the pipeclay with the opposite 
 foot, and show you the exact part of the shoe he 
 strikes with, which you can easily alter in the new 
 shoe; and you will often be surprised to see how 
 small a matter causes the mischief. 
 
 EEMOYING. 
 
 The time at which a horse's shoes should be re- 
 moved must depend very much upon circumstances. 
 If a horse wears his shoes out in less than a 
 month they had better not be removed ; and horses 
 
REMOVIXG. 43 
 
 with thin, weak horiij which grows slowly, are 
 likewise better left alone between each shoeing, 
 unless their shoes last six or seven weeks, in which 
 case tliej^ should be removed once within the time : 
 but horses with strong feet and plenty of horn, 
 that wear their shoes a full month, should have 
 them removed at the end of the first fortnidit ; 
 and when horses are doing so little work or wear 
 their shoes so lightly that they last two months, 
 they should be removed every fortnight, and at the 
 second removal the shoes should be put in the fire 
 and refitted, or the feet will outgrow the shoes; as 
 the horn crrows much quicker when a horse is idle 
 than it does when he is in full work. 
 
 Having now gone carefully through all the cir- 
 cumstances necessary to good shoeing, and stated 
 the reasons why certain things should alicays be 
 done, and certain other things never done, I will 
 repeat shortly the few things which are to he done 
 in the order in which they occur; and you will 
 find that they are really very few when separated 
 from the reasons and explanations. 
 
44 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 Kaise tlie clenches with the buffer. 
 
 Have only one foot bare at a time. 
 
 Pare out the foot; but leave the frog alone. 
 
 Cut off the heels of the shoe as I have directed. 
 
 Open the nail-holes straight through the shoe. 
 
 Form a clip at the toe, and turn up the toe of 
 the shoe. 
 
 Fit the toe^ then the quarters, and lastly the 
 heels. 
 
 Heat the shoe, and apply it to the foot to see that 
 it fits properly. 
 
 « 
 
 Cool the shoe, "back-hole" it, and file it up. 
 
 Nail it on with five nails, coming out low in the 
 crust. 
 
 Hammer down the clenches without rasping them, 
 and only rasp the hoof helow them. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 I have said that ^yq nails are sufficient to hold 
 on a fore-shoe at any kind of work, in any coun- 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 45 
 
 try and at any pace; and I again advise you to 
 employ that number, placing three on the outside 
 of the shoe and two on the inside, because I know 
 from experience that with the very commonest care 
 on the part of the smith they will hold a shoe 
 through any difficulty of ground or pace. But I am 
 prepared to prove that they are more than suf- 
 ficient for the purpose, and to show that many 
 smiths can and do keep on a fore-shoe by tliree 
 nails only — tico placed on the outside and one on 
 the inside. 
 
 It is very nearly seven years since I have had 
 more than three nails in the fore-shoe of any one 
 of my six horses, and they are all shod with thick 
 felt and stopping; some of them do not require 
 the felt, but, having begun it as an experiment 
 some years ago, and finding no inconvenience from 
 it, I have gone on with it. In a former work I 
 published several cases of horses having done a 
 variety of work with only three nails in each fore- 
 shoe ; and I may now add another, which happened 
 to a horse of my own last year, and which ought 
 
46 TREATISE OX HORSE- SHOEING. 
 
 to set the question at rest, supposing any doubt 
 still to exist as to the capability of three nails to 
 hold a shoe. The horse I allude to is twenty- 
 eight years old; he is a high stepper, and im- 
 petuous in company, and has large flat feet, which 
 grow horn very sparingly, so that it is quite 
 necessary to protect his feet by a stout shoe with 
 felt and stopping under it. He happens to be a 
 particularly nice lady's horse for one who has 
 plenty of nerve and can ride well; and I lent 
 him to join in a large riding party of ladies and 
 gentlemen, on a visit at a friend's house, who took 
 long daily rides in a very hilly district, regardless 
 of pace, over commons covered with heath, furze, 
 and stones, through rough stony lanes, and in 
 every variety of ground; and, although his shoes 
 had been on ten days when I sent him aAvay, 
 he returned to me at the end of ^ve weeks with 
 his shoes worn out certainly, but firm on his feet 
 and the clenches all close. I mention this last 
 circumstance because it is a proof that his shoes 
 had been put on with proper care; for whenever 
 
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 47 
 
 you find a clench rise you may be certain that 
 you have done something wrong; either the crust 
 did not bear upon the shoe all round, or the nail- 
 holes did not pass straight through the shoe, or 
 the heads of the nails did not fill the bottom of 
 the holes. Any one of these things may cause a 
 clench to rise; and a risen clench is a sure sign 
 of careless shoeing. 
 
 I may mention, as further proof of the sufficiency 
 of three nails to keep on a shoe, that Colonel Key, 
 who commands the loth Hussars, at present stationed 
 at Exeter, has four horses shod with three nails 
 only in each fore-shoe. Finding how my horses 
 were shod, he was induced to try the plan upon his 
 hack, and felt so satisfied with the result that he 
 immediately had the others similarly shod, and con- 
 tinues to do so ; and an officer in the Prussian 
 Hussars, who did me the honor to translate my 
 book upon the Horse's Foot into German and pub- 
 lish it at his own expense at Frankfort- sur-Maine, 
 writes me that his horses also are shod with three 
 
48 TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
 
 nails only in each fore-slioe, and that he finds no 
 difficulty whatever in keeping their shoes on. 
 
 I thmk I may consider that I have now proved 
 beyond dis|)ute that a fore-shoe can be kept on 
 by three nails ; therefore, lie must be a sorry bungler 
 indeed who cannot manage it with five. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 STEREOTYPED BY L. JOHNSON & CO. 
 PHLLADELPHU. 
 
PUBLICATIONS 
 
 OV 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 SUCCESSOR TO E. I. CAEET, 
 
 No. 7 Hart's Buildings, Sixth Street above Chestnut, Philadelphia. 
 
 American Miller and MillwrigMs As^ 
 
 sistant : 
 
 A new and thoroughly revised Edition, -with additional Engrav- 
 ings. By William Carter Hughes. In one volume, 
 12mo $1.00 
 
 " The author ofiFers it as a substantial reference, instead of speculative theo 
 ries, which belong only to those not immediately attached to the business. 
 Special notice is also given of most of the essential improvements which have 
 of late been introduced for the benefit of the Miller." — Savannah Republican. 
 
 " The whole business of making flour is most thoroughly treated by him."— 
 Bulletin. 
 
 " A very comprehensive view of the Millwright's business." — Sovihem Literary 
 Messenger. 
 
 Analytical CJiemisCs Assistant . 
 
 A Manual of Chemical Analysis, both Qualitative and Quantita- 
 tive, of Natural and Artificial Inorganic Compounds ; to 
 ■which are appended the Rules for Detecting Arsenic in a 
 Case of Poisoning. By Frederick Wcehler, Professor of 
 Chemistry in the University of Gottingen. Translated from 
 the German, with an Introduction, Illustrations, and co- 
 pious Additions, by Oscar M. Lieber, Author of :he " As- 
 say er's Guide." In One Volume, 12mo $1.25 
 
 "The character of Woihler is a sufficient guarantee that this work will proT« 
 What it claima to be." — Providence Daily Journal. 
 
 1 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Barnard — Connecticut Common School 
 
 Journal, from 1838 to 1842. 
 Edited by Henry Barnard. In one, two, or four vols.. ..$3. 00 
 
 Barnard — History of the System of Com- 
 mon Schools, and other Means of Popular Education 
 in Connecticut, from 1638 to 1844. 600 pp $2.00 
 
 Barnard — Journal of Rhode Island Insti- 
 tute of Instruction, 
 
 Including Mr, Barnard's Reports on the History and Improve- 
 ment of the Public Schools of Rhode Island, from 1845 to 
 1848. Three volumes $3.50 
 
 Barnard — Legal Provision respecting the 
 
 Education and Employment of Children in Facto- 
 ries and Manufacturing Establishments. 84 pp. . .50 cts. 
 
 Barnard — Life of Thomas H, Gallaudet; 
 
 With a History of Deaf Mute Instruction, &c., 268 pp $1.00 
 
 Barnard — National Education in Europe : 
 
 Being an Account of the Organization, Administiation, In- 
 struction, and Statistics of Public Schools, of diflFerent 
 grades, in the Principal States. By Henry Barnard, 
 Second edition, 8vo $3.00 
 
 Barnard — Normal Schools; or, Institu- 
 tions, Agencies, and 3Ieans for the Professional 
 Education and Improvement of Teachers, in Europe 
 and the United States. 650pp $2.00 
 
 Barnard — Practical Illustrations of the 
 
 Princijples of School Architecture. 176 pp 75 cts. 
 
 Barnard — School Architectiire ; 
 
 Or, Contributions to the Improvement of School Houses in 
 the United States. By Henry Barnard, Superintendent 
 Common Schools in Connecticut. 6th edition, 8vo.. $2.00 
 
HENRY CAHEY BAIED'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Booth and Morjit — The Encyclopedia of 
 
 Chemistri/, Practical and Theoretical : 
 
 Embracing its application to the Arts, Metallurgy, Mineralogy, 
 Geology, Medicine, and Pharmacy. By James C. Booth, 
 Melter and Refiner in the United States Mint; Professor 
 of Applied Chemistry in the Franklin Institute, &c. ; as- 
 sisted by Campbell Morfit, author of " Chemical Mani- 
 pulations," &c. Complete in one volume, royal octavo, 
 978 pages, with numerous wood cuts and other illustra- 
 tions $5.00 
 
 "It covers the whole field of Chemistry as applied to Arts and Sciences. * * * 
 As no library is complete without a common dictionary, it is also our opinion 
 that none can be without this Encyclopedia of Chemistry." — ScUntific Amer 
 rican. 
 
 "A work of time and labour, andatreasury of chemical information." — A^OTtJi 
 American. 
 
 " By far the best manual of the kind which has been presented to the Ameri- 
 can public." — Boston Courier. 
 
 Brewer ; [The Complete Practical) 
 
 Or, Plain, Concise, and Accurate Instructions in the Art of 
 Brewing Beer, Ale, Porter, &c. &c., and the Process of 
 Making all the Small Beers. By M. Lafayette Byrn, M.D. 
 With Illustrations. 12mo $1.00 
 
 "Many an old brewer will find in this book valuable hints and suggestions 
 worthy of consideration, and the novice can post himself up in his trade in all 
 its parts." — Artisan. 
 
 Builder'' s Pocket Companion: 
 
 Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Archi- 
 tecture ; with Practical Rules and Instructions connected 
 with the subject. By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engineer, &c. 
 In one volume, 12mo $1.00 
 
 CoxTEXTS: — The Builder, Carpenter, Joiner, Mason, Plasterer, Plumber, 
 Painter, Smith, Practical Geometry, Surveyor, Cohesive Strength of Bodies, 
 Architect. 
 
 " It gives, in a small space, the most thorough directions to the builder, from 
 the laying of a brick, or the felling of a tree, up to the most elaborate produc- 
 tion of ornamental architecture. It is scientific, without being obscure and 
 unintelligible ; and every house-carpenter, master, journeyman, or apprentice, 
 Bhould have a copy at hand always." — Evening Bulletin. 
 
 " Complete on the subjects on which it treats. A most useful, practical work." 
 ^Balt. American. 
 
 " It must be of great practical utility." — Savannah Republican. 
 
 " To whatever branch of the art of building the reader may belong, he will find 
 in this something valuable and calculated to assist his progress." — Farmer and 
 Mechanic. 
 
 " This is a valuable little volume, designed to assist the student in the acqui- 
 sition of elementary knowledge, and will be found highly advantageous to ev^ry 
 young man who has devoted himself to the interesting pursuits of which ii 
 treats."— Fo. Herald. 
 
 S 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Byrne — The Practical Metal-worker"^ s 
 
 Assistant ; 
 
 For Tin-Plate Workers, Braziers, Coppersmiths, Zinc-Plate 
 Ornamenters and Workers, Wire Workers, Whitesmiths, 
 Blacksmiths, Bell Hangers, Jewellers, Silver and Gold 
 Smiths, Electrotypers, and all other Workers in Alloys and 
 Metals. Edited by Oliver Byrne. Complete in one vo- 
 lume, octavo $4.00 
 
 It treats of Casting, Founding, and Forging; of Tongs and other Tools; 
 Degrees of Heat and Management of Fires ; Welding ; of Heading and Swage 
 Tools; of Punches and Anvils; of Hardening and Tempering; of Malleable 
 Iron Castings, Case Hardening, Wrought and Cast Iron. The management and 
 manipulation of Metals and Alloys, Melting and Mixing. The management 
 of Furnaces, Casting and Founding with Metallic Moulds, Joining and Working 
 Sheet Metal. Peculiarities of the different Tools emploj-ed. Processes depend- 
 ant on the ductility of Metals. Wire Drawing, Drawing IMetal Tubes, Soldering. 
 The iise of the Blowpipe, and every other known Metal Worker's Tool. 
 
 Byrne — The Practical Model Calculator; 
 
 For the Engineer, Machinist, Manufacturer of Engine Work, 
 
 Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By Oliver 
 
 Byrne, Compiler and Editor of the Dictionary of Machines, 
 
 Mechanics, Engine Work and Engineering, and Author of 
 
 various Mathematical and Mechanical Works. Illustrated 
 
 by numerous engravings. Complete in one large volume, 
 
 octavo, of nearly six hundred pages $3.50 
 
 " In short it must be regarded by every man for whose more especial benefit 
 it is intended, as a complete text-book in his profession." — PUtsburyh Union. 
 
 Cabinet-maker'' s and Upholsterer's Com- 
 
 •pardon : 
 
 Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet-making 
 and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, illustrated by. 
 Examples for attaining a proficiency in the Art of Drawing, 
 as applicable to Cabinet Work ; the processes of Veneer- 
 ing, Inlaying, and Buhl Work; the Art of Dyeing and 
 Staining Wood, Bone, Tortoise Shell, &c. Directions for 
 Lackering, Japanning, and Varnishing; to make French 
 Polish ; to prepare the best Glues, Cements, and Composi- 
 tions, and a number of Receipts particularly useful for 
 Workmen generally. By J. Stokes. In one volume, 
 12mo. With Illustrations 75cts. 
 
 " A large amount of practical information, of great service to all concerned in 
 those branches of business." — Ohio State Journal. 
 4 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Chemistry Applied to Dyeing, 
 
 By James Napier, F.C.S. Illustrated. 12mo $1.50 
 
 Contexts. — General Properties of Matter. — Heat, Light, Elements of Matter. 
 Chemical Affinity. Non-Metallic Substances. — Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, 
 Chlorine, Sulphur. Selenium. Phosphorus, Iodine, Bromine, Fluorine, Silicum, 
 Boron, Carbon. Metallic Substances. — General Properties of Metals, Potassium, 
 Sodium, Lithium, Soap. Barium, Strontium, Calcium, Magnesium, Alminum, 
 Manganese, Iron, Cobalt, Nickel, Zinc, Cadmium, Copper, Lead, Bismuth, Tin, 
 Titanium, Chromium, Vanadium, Tungstenum or Wolfram, Molybdenum, Tella- 
 rium. Arsenic, Antimony, Uranium, Cerium, Mercury, Silver, Gold, Platinum, 
 Palladium, Iridium, Osniium, Rhodium, Lanthanium. Mordants. — Red Spirits, 
 Barwood Spirits, Plumb Spirits, Yellow Spirits, Nitrate of Iron, Acetate of Alu- 
 mina, Black Iron Liquor, Iron and Tin for RoyalBlues, Acetate of Copper. Vege- 
 table Matters used in Dyeing. — Galls, Sumach, Catechu, Indigo, Logwood, Brazil- 
 woods, Sandal-wood. Barwood, Camwood, Fustic, Young Fustic, Bark or Quer- 
 citron, Flavine, Weld or Wold, Turmeric, Persian Berries, Safflower, Madder, 
 Munjeet, Annotta, Alkanet Root, Archil. Proposed New Vegetable Dyes. — 
 Sooranjee, Carajuru, Wongshy, Aloes, Pittacal, Barbary Root. Animal Matters 
 used in Dyeing. — Cochineal, Lake or Lac, Kerms. 
 
 This will be found one of the most valuable books on the subject of dyeing, 
 ever published in this country. 
 
 ColbuTJi — Tlie Locomotive Engine: 
 
 Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimating 
 its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Con- 
 struction and Management. By Zerah Colbukn. Illus- 
 trated. A new edition. 12mo 75 cts. 
 
 " It is the most practical and generally useful work on the Steam Engine that 
 we have seen." — Boston Traveller. 
 
 Distiller, [The Complete Practical) 
 
 l^Y M. Lafayette Byrn, M.D. With Illustrations. 12mo.$1.00 
 
 " So simplified, that it is adapted not only to the use of extensive Distillers, 
 but for every farmer, or others who may want to engage in Distilling." — Banner 
 of the Union. 
 
 Dyer and Colour-maker'' s Companion: 
 
 Containing upwards of two hundred Eeceipts for making Co- 
 lours, on the most approved principles, for all the various 
 styles and fabrics now in existence; with the Scouring 
 Process, and plain Directions for Preparing, Washing-off, 
 and Finishing the Goods. Second edition. In one volume, 
 12mo 75 cts. 
 
 *' This is another of that most excellent class of practical books, which the 
 publisher is giving to the public. Indeed, we believe there is not, for manufac- 
 turers, a more valuable work, having been prepared for and expressly adapted 
 to their business." — Fanner and Mecluxnic. 
 
 "It is a valuable book." — Otsego Republican. 
 
 " We have shown it to some practical men, who all pronounced it the com- 
 pletest thing of the kind they had seen." — N. Y. Nation. 
 
 1* 6 
 
HENRY CAREY BAlxorS PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Dyefs Instructor: 
 
 Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, 
 Cotton, Wool, and Worsted and Woollen Goods, as single 
 and two-coloured Damasks, Moreens, Camlets, Eastings, 
 Shot Cobourgs, Silk Striped Orleans, Plain Orleans from 
 White and Coloured Warps, Merinoes, Woollens, Yarns, 
 &c. &c. Containing nearly Eight Hundred Keceipts, to 
 •which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding, and the 
 Printing of Silk, Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and 
 the Tarious Mordants and Colours for the different Styles 
 of such work. By David Smith, Pattern Dyer. 12mo, 
 cloth $1.50 
 
 " Information can be obtained from this book which would be found difficult 
 to gain in any other form." — Southern Argus. 
 
 Dyer [The Practical) and Scourer, 
 
 By Thomas Love. In one volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 Examination of Drugs^ Medicines, Che- 
 micals, d)c. 
 
 As to their Purity and Adulterations, by C. H. Peirce, M.D., 
 Translator of " Stockhardt's Chemistry," and Examiner 
 of Medicines, &c. for the Port of Boston. 12mo $1.25 
 
 Gilhart — Practical Treatise on Banking, 
 
 By Jas. Wm. Gilbart, F.R.S. Edited by J. Smith Homans, 
 Editor Banker's Magazine. 8vo $2.50 
 
 Gregory — Mathematics for Practical Men: 
 
 Being a Common-Place Book of Principles, Theorems, Rules, 
 and Tables, in various Departments of Pure and Mixed 
 Mathematics, with their Applications, especially to the 
 pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, and Civil 
 Engineers, with numerous Engravings. By Olinthtjs 
 Gregory, LL.D., F.R.A.S. $1.50 
 
 Household Surgery ; or, Hints on Emer- 
 gencies. 
 
 hj J. F. South, one of the Surgeons of St. Thomas's Hospi- 
 tal. In one volume, 12mo, sheep. Illustrated by nearly 
 fifty Engravings $1.50 
 
HENRY CAEEY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Johnston — Botanic Practice of Medicine, 
 
 By Dr. Wm. Johnston. 24mo 38 cts. 
 
 Leslie! s [Miss] Complete Cookery: 
 
 Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss Les- 
 lie. 54th Thousand. Thoroughly Revised, with the Ad- 
 dition of New Receipts. In one volume, 12mo, half-bound, 
 or in sheep $1.00 
 
 In preparing a new and carefully revised edition of this my first work on 
 cookery, I hare introduced improrements, corrected errors, and added new 
 receipts, that I trust will on trial he found satisfectory. The success of tha 
 book (proved hy its immense and increasing circulation) affords conclusive evi- 
 dence that it has obtained the approbation of a large number of my country- 
 women, many of whom have informed me that it has made practical housewives 
 of young ladies who have entered into married life with no other acquirements 
 than a tew showy accomplishments. Gentlemen, also, have told me of great 
 improvements in the family table, after presenting their wives with this manual 
 of domestic cookery, and that, after a morning devoted to the flitigues of busi- 
 ness, they no longer find themselves subjected to the annoyance of an ill-dresseJ 
 dinner. — Preface. 
 
 Leslie^ s [Miss) Two Hundred Receipts in 
 
 French Cookery. 
 A new edition, in cloth 25 eta. 
 
 Lieher — Assay ej^'^s Guide; 
 
 Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for 
 the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, of 
 the Ores of all the principal Metals, and of Gold and Silver 
 Coins and Alloys. By Oscar M. Lieber, late Geologist to 
 the State of Mississippi. 12mo. With Illustrations. 75 cts. 
 
 " Among the indispensable works for this purpose, is this little guide." — 
 Artisan. 
 
 Lyon — New and Improved Tables : 
 
 With the Method of their Application to finding the Mean 
 Heights of Cross Sections, and the Cubic Contents of Exca- 
 vations and Embankments. By Patrick Lyon. 8vo..$1.50 
 
 Macfarlane — Propellers and. Steam Navi- 
 gation : 
 
 With Biographical Sketches of Early Inventors. By Robert 
 Macfarlane, C.E., Editor of the " Scientific American." 
 In one volume, 12mo. Illustrated by over eighty Wood 
 
 Engravings. Toots. 
 
 7 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Morfit — Perfumery ; Its Mamifacture and 
 
 Use. 
 
 With Instructions in every branch of the Art, and Receipts for 
 all the Fashionable Preparations ; the ■whole forming a valu- 
 able aid to the Perfumer, Druggist, and Soap Manufac- 
 turer. Illustrated by numerous Wood-cuts. From the 
 French of Celnart, and other late authorities. With Ad- 
 ditions and Improvements by Campbell Morfit. A new 
 and revised edition, in one volume, 12mo, cloth $1.60 
 
 Morfit — The Arts of Tanning and Cur- 
 
 Tying : 
 
 Theoretically and Practically Considered in all their Details, 
 being a full and comprehensive Treatise on the Manufac- 
 ture of the various kinds of Leather. Illustrated by over 
 two hundred Engravings. Edited from the French of De 
 Fontenelle and Malapeyere. With numerous Emendations 
 and Additions, by Campbell Morfit, Practical and Ana- 
 lytical Chemist. Complete in one volume, octavo $5.00 
 
 This important Treatise will be found to cover the whole lield in the most 
 masterly manner, and it is believed that in no other branch of applied science 
 could more signal service be rendered to American Manufacturers. 
 
 The publisher is not aware that in any other work heretofore issued in this 
 country, more space has been devoted to this subject than a single chapter ; and 
 in offering this volume to so large and intelligent a class as American Tannera 
 and Leather Dressers, he feels confident of their substantial support and en- 
 couragement. 
 
 Contents. — Introduction, Dignity of Labour, Tan and Tannin, Gallic Acid, 
 Extractive Tanning Materials, Oak Barks, Barking of Trees, Method of Esti- 
 mating the Tanning Power of Astringent Substances, Tan, the Structure and 
 Composition of Skin, Different kinds of Skin suitable for Tanning, Preliminary 
 Treatment of Skins, Tanning Process, Improved Processes, Vauqueliu's Pro- 
 cess, Accelerating Processes, Keasley's. Trumbull's, Hibbards, and Loprieur's 
 Processes, Tanning with Extract of Oak-Bark, Hemlock Tanning, with Myrtle 
 Plant, English Harness Leather, Calf Skins, Goat and Sheep Skins, Horse Hides, 
 Buck, Wolf, and Dog Skins, Buffalo, or "Grecian" Leather, Russia Leather, 
 Bed Skins, Wallachia Leather, Mineral Tanning, Texture and Quality of Leather, 
 and the Means of Discovering its Defects, Tawing, Hungary Leather, Oiled 
 Leather, Tanning as practised by the Mongol Tartars, Shagreen, Parchment, 
 Leather Bottles, Tanning of Cordage and Sail Cloth, Glazed or " Patent" Lea- 
 ther, Helverson's Process for Rendering Hides Hard and Transparent, Currying, 
 Currying of Calf Skins, Currying of Goat Skins, Red Leather, Fair Leather, 
 Water Proof Dressing, Perkins' Machine for Pommelling and Graining Leather, 
 Splitting, Shaving, Eleshing and Cleansing Machines, Embossing of Leather, 
 Gut Dressing. 
 
 Mortimer — Pyroteclinisf s Companio7i ; 
 
 Or, A Familiar System of Fire-works. By G. W. Mortimer. 
 
 Illustrated by numerous Engravings. 12mo 75 eta. 
 
 S 
 
HENRY CAlUCY BAIRD'S PTJBIICATIONS. 
 
 Napier — Manual of Electro- Metallurgy : 
 
 Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Processes. 
 By James Napier. From the second London edition, re- 
 vised and enlarged. Illustrated by Engravings. In one 
 volume, 12mo $1.25 
 
 Napier's Electro-Metallurgy is generally regarded as the very best practical 
 treatise on the subject in the English language. 
 
 Contexts. — History of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy, Description of Galvanic 
 Bal teries, and their respective Peculiarities, Electrotype Processes, Miscellaneous 
 Applications of the Process of Coating with Copper, Bronzing, Decomposition of 
 Metals upon one another, Electro-Plating, Electro-GUding, Results of Experi- 
 ments on the Deposition of other Metals as Coatings, Theoretical Observations. 
 
 Neill — Fruity Floiver^ and Kitchen Garden. 
 
 By Patrick Neill, LL.D., F.R.S.E., Secretary to the Royal 
 Caledonian Horticultural Society. Adapted to the United 
 States, from the fourth edition, revised and improved by the 
 Author. Illustrated by fifty Wood Engravings of Hot- 
 houses, &c. &c. In one volume, 12mo $1.25 
 
 " This volume supplies a desideratum much felt, and gives within a moderate 
 compass all the horticultxiral information necessary for practical use." — Newark 
 Mercury. 
 
 " A valuable addition to the horticulturist's library." — BaMimore Patriot. 
 
 Nicholson — Book-binder^ s (The Practical) 
 
 Manual : 
 
 Containing Full Directions for all the different Branches of 
 Book-binding and Marbling. By James B. Nicholson. 
 Illustrated. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 Norris's Hand-look for Locomotive Eii- 
 
 gineers and Machinists : 
 
 Comprising the Calculations for Constructing Locomotives, Man- 
 ner of setting Valves, &c. &c. By Septimus Norris, Civil 
 and Mechanical Engineer. In one volume, 12mo, with Illus- 
 trations $1.50 
 
 " With pleasure do we meet with such a work as Messrs. Norris and Baird 
 have given us." — Artisan. 
 
 " In this work he has given us what are called ' the secrets of the busir-ss.' 
 in the rules to construct locomotives, in order that the million should be learned 
 in all things." — Scientific American. 
 
 
 
HENEY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Ny Strom — A Treatise on Screw- Propellers 
 
 and their Steam-Eiigines : 
 
 With Practical Rules and Examples by which to Calculate and 
 Construct the same for any description of Vessels. By J. 
 W. Ntstrom. Illustrated by over thirty large Working 
 
 Drawings. In one volume, octavo $3.50 
 
 This is the fullest treatise on the subject ever published in this country. 
 
 Overman — The Manufacture of Iron in 
 
 all its Various Branches : 
 
 To which is added an Essay on the Manufacture of Steel, by 
 
 Frederick Overman, Mining Engineer, with one hundred 
 
 and fifty Wood Engravings. Third edition. In one volume, 
 
 octavo, five hundred pages $5.00 
 
 "We have now to announce the appearance of another valuable work on the 
 subject, which, in our humble opinion, supplies any deficiency which late im- 
 provements and discoveries may have caused, from the lapse of time since the 
 date of ' Mushet' and ' Schrivenor.' It is the production of one of our trans- 
 atlantic brethren, Mr. Fredericli Overman, Mining Engineer ; and we do not 
 hesitate to set it down as a work of great importance to all connected with the 
 iron interest; one which, while it is sufficiently technological fuUy to explain 
 chemical analysis, and the various phenomena of iron under different circum- 
 stances, to the satisfaction of the most fastidious, is written in that clear and 
 comprehensive style as to be available to the capacity of the humblest mind, 
 and consequently will be of much advantage to those works where the proprie- 
 tors may see the desirability of placing it in the hands of theh operatives." — 
 London Morning Journal. 
 
 Painter^ [The) Gilder , and Varnisher^s 
 
 Companion : 
 
 Containing Rules and Regulations for every thing relating to 
 the arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, and Glass-stain- 
 ing : numerous useful and valuable Receipts ; Tests for the 
 Detection of Adulterations in Oils, Colours, &c. ; and a 
 Statement of the Diseases and Accidents to which Painters, 
 Gilders, and Varnishers are particularly liable ; with the 
 simplest methods of Prevention and Remedy. Fifth edition. 
 In one volume, small 12mo, cloth 75 cts. 
 
 Paper- Hanger'' s [The) Companion: 
 
 In which the Practical Operations of the Trade are systematic- 
 ally laid down; with copious Directions Preparatory to 
 Papering ; Preventions against the effect of Damp in Walls ; 
 the various Cements and Pastes adapted to the several pur- 
 poses of the trade ; Observations and Directions for the 
 Panelling and Ornamenting of Rooms, &c. &c. By James 
 
 Arrowsmith. In one volume, 12mo 75 cts. 
 
 1« 
 
HEiniY CAPtEY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Perkins — Practical Treatise on Gas and 
 
 Ventilation. 
 By E. E. Perkins. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 Practical Printer, Type Founder, and 
 
 Stereotyper^ s Hand-Boole. 
 By D. W. Belisle. Illustrated. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 Practical [The) Surveyor'' s Ckdde: 
 
 Containing the necessary information to make any person of 
 common capacity a finished Land Surveyor, "without the 
 aid of a teacher. By Andeew Duncan, Land Surveyor 
 and Civil Engineer. 12mo 75 cts. 
 
 Having had an experience as a practical Surveyor, &c. of thirty years, it is 
 believed that the author of this volome possesses a thorough knowledge of the 
 wants of the profession; and never having met with any work sufiBciently con- 
 cise and instructive in the several details necessary for the proper qualification 
 of the Surveyor, it has been his object to supply that want. Among other im- 
 portant matters in the book, will be found the following : 
 
 Instructions in levelling and profiling, with a new and speedy plan of setting 
 grades on rail and plank roads ; the method of inflecting curves ; the descrijv 
 tion and design of a new instrument, whereby distances are fouud at once, with- 
 out any calculation ; a new method of surveying any tract of land by measur- 
 ing one line through it ; a geometrical method of correcting surveys taken with 
 the compass, to fit them for calculation ; a short method of finding the angles 
 from the covirses, and vice versa ; the method of surveying with the compass 
 through any mine or iron works, and to correct the deflections of the needle by 
 attraction ; description of an instrument by the help of which any one may 
 measure a map by inspection, without calculation ; a new and short method of 
 calculation, wherein fewer figiues are used ; the method of correcting the diur 
 nal variation of the needle ; various methods of plotting and embellishing maps ; 
 the most correct method of laying off plots with the pole, &c. ; description of a 
 new compass contrived by the author, &c. &g. 
 
 Rail Road Curves, and Location of Rail 
 
 Roads : 
 
 A Practical Treatise. By E. W. Beans, Civil Engineer. 12mo. 
 (In press.) 
 
 Rural Chemistry: 
 
 An Elementary Introduction to the Study of the Science, in its 
 relation to Agriculture and the Arts of Life. By Edward 
 Solly, Professor of Chemistry in the Horticultural Society 
 of London. From the third improved London edition, 
 
 12mo $1.25 
 
 11 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Scott — The Practical Cotton'Spinner and 
 
 Manufacturer ; or, the Manager and Overlooker' s 
 , Companion : 
 
 This work contains a Comprehensive System of Calculations 
 
 for Mill Gearing and Machinery, from the first moving 
 
 power, through the difi'erent processes of Carding, Drawing, 
 
 Slabbing, Roving, Spinning, and Weaving, adapted to 
 
 American Machinery, Practice and Usages. Compendious 
 
 Tables of Yarns and Reeds are added. Illustrated by large 
 
 working-drawings of the most approved American Cotton 
 
 Machinery. Complete in one volume, octavo $3.50 
 
 This edition of Scott's Cotton-Spinner, by Oliver Byrne, is designed for the 
 American Operative. It will be found intensely practical, and will be of the 
 greatest possible value to the Manager, Overseer, and Workman. 
 
 Shele De Vere — Sketches of Comparative 
 
 Philology. 
 
 By Prof. Shele De Vere, of the University of Virginia, 
 author of a "Grammar of the Spanish Language." Com- 
 plete in one volume, 12mo $1.25 
 
 Solly — Syllabus of a Complete Course of 
 
 Lectures on Chemistry : 
 
 Including its Application to the Arts, Agriculture, and Mining. 
 By Prof. E. Solly. Revised by the author of " Chemical 
 Manipulations." Octavo, cloth $1.25 
 
 Templeton — The Practical Examinator 
 
 on Steam and the Steam Engine: 
 
 With Instructive References relative thereto, arranged for the 
 use of Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. Temple- 
 ton, Engineer. 12mo 75 cts. 
 
 This work was originally written for the author's private use. He was pre- 
 vailed upon by various Engineers, who had seen the notes, to consent to its pub- 
 lication, from their eager expression of belief that it would be equally useful 
 to them as it had been to himselfl 
 
 Treatise [A) on a Box of Instruments, 
 
 And the Slide Rule, with the Theory of Trigonometry and 
 
 Logarithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, 
 
 ^ Measuring of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights 
 
 and Distances. By Thomas Kentish. In one volume, 
 12mo $1.00 
 
 A. volume of inestimable value to Engineers, Gaugers, Students, and others. 
 12 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Turnhull — A Treatise on Experimental 
 
 Electricity. 
 By Lawrence Turnbull, M.D. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 Turner's Companion: 
 
 Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric 
 Turning. Also, various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and In- 
 struments, and Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, 
 Drill, Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest ; with Patterns 
 and Instructions for working them. Illustrated with nume- 
 rous Engravings. In one volume, 12mo 75 cts. 
 
 A valuable little book, beautifully and completely illustrated. 
 
 Walker — Electrotype Manipulation. 
 
 Being the Theory and Plain Instructions in the Art of Working 
 in Metals, by Precipitating them from their Solutions, 
 through the agency of Galvanic or Voltaic Electricity ; also 
 in the Arts of Electro-Plating, Electro-Gilding, and Elec- 
 tro-Etching; with an Account of the Mode of Depositing 
 Metallic Oxides, and of the several applications of Electro- 
 type in the Arts. By Charles V. Walker, Hon. Sec. of 
 the London Electrical Society, &c. Illustrated. New edi- 
 tion, from the Twenty-fifth London edition. 12mo...75 cts. 
 
 The rapid sale in England of t-wenty-five editions, and the demand in this 
 country render necessary no further guarantee of the value of this book, rof 
 popular use it surpasses aU other treatises on the subject 
 
 Walter & Smith — Cottage and Villa Ar- 
 chitecture : 
 
 With Ground-plans and Elevations. By Thomas U. Walter, 
 Architect of Girard College, and John Jay Smith, Phila- 
 delphia Library. In two volumes, quarto $5.00 
 
 Walter & SmitKs Guide to Workers in 
 
 Metal and Stone. 
 
 Consisting of Designs and Patterns for Gates, Piers, Balcony 
 
 and Cemetery Railing, Window Guards, Balustrades, Stair- ^. 
 cases, Candelabras, &c. &c. Four parts, cuarto. Illus- 
 trated by large Drawings :.. $10:00 
 
 2 13 
 
HENRY CAEEY BAIRD'S PTJBLICATIONS. 
 
 Byron — Poetical Works of Lord Byron: 
 
 A new, beautiful, and complete edition, in eight volumes, 12mo. 
 
 Cloth $6.50 
 
 Sheep 8.00 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 9.00 
 
 Half calf antique 12.50 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra.. 17.50 
 
 Four volumes, cloth $4.00 
 
 Sheep 5.00 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 6.50 
 
 Half calf antique 7.50 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..10.00 
 
 Byron — Tales and Poems of Lord Byron: 
 
 Illustrated by Henry Warren. In one volume, royal octavo, 
 with 10 plates. 
 
 Scarlet cloth, gilt edges.. $5. 00 
 
 Half calf antique 6.00 
 
 Calf antique extra 7.00 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra.. $7.00 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra 7.00 
 
 Campbell — Specimens of the British Poets 
 
 from the time of Chaucer to the end of the Eight- 
 eenth Century. 
 
 By Thomas Campbell. In one volume, royal octavo. 
 
 Cloth $3.50 Turk, moroc. sup. extra.. $6.00 
 
 Extra beveled gilt edges. ..4.00 Turk, moroc. ant. extra. ...6.00 
 Half calf antique 5.00 Calf antique extra 6.00 
 
 Childe Harold: 
 
 By Lord Byron. With beautiful Illustrations. 1 vol. 8vo. 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges... $5. 00 
 
 Half calf, antique 6.00 
 
 Turkey morocco, extra 7.00 
 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra... 7. 00 
 Crown octavo, cloth extra, 
 
 gilt edges 3.00 
 
 Half calf antique 4.50 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..5.60 
 U 
 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra.. $5. 50 
 
 Calf antique extra 5.50 
 
 A new and cheap edition, 
 with frontispiece, 12mo, 
 
 cloth 75 
 
 Cloth, gilt edges 1.12 
 
 Half calf antique 1.62 
 
 Turk. mor. sup. ext. 12mo..2.25 
 
HENRY CAEEY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Cowper's Complete Poetical Works: 
 
 Illustrated with Fifteen beautiful Steel Engravings, after De- 
 signs by John Gilbert. Crown 8vo. 
 
 Cloth $3.00 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 3.50 
 
 Half calf, antique 4.50 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra.. ..5. 50 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra.. ..5.50 
 
 Calf antique, extra $5.50 
 
 A cheap edition, with 
 frontispiece, 12mo. cloth. 1.00 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 1.50 
 
 Half calf antique 2.12 
 
 Turkey morocco, super extra 12mo 2.75 
 
 Cowper's Task, and other Poems: 
 
 With Ten Steel Engravings. 
 
 Extra cloth, gilt edges. ...$2.00 
 
 Half calf, antique 3.00 
 
 Turkey morocco, extra 3.50 
 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra ...5.00 
 
 A cheap edition, with 
 frontispiece, 12mo, cloth... 75 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 1.12 
 
 Half calf, antique 1.62 
 
 Turkey morocco, super extra 2.25 
 
 Cotvper'^s Table-talk and other Poems: 
 
 12mo, (just ready.) 
 
 Cloth 75 I Half calf, antique $1.62 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges $1.12 | Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..2.25 
 
 Female Poets of America : 
 
 By RuFus W. Griswold. A new edition. In one volume. Illus- 
 trated, 8vo. 
 
 Cloth extra $2.50 Turk, moroc. sup. extra.. $5. 00 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 3.00 Turk, moroc. ant. extra. ...5.00 
 
 Half calf, antique 4.00 Calf antique, extra 5.00 
 
 Female Poets of Great Britain: 
 
 With Copious Selections and Critical Remarks. By Frederic 
 RowTON. In one volume, 8vo. With illustrations. 
 
 Cloth $2.50 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 3.00 
 
 Half calf, antique 4.00 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..5.00 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra... 5. 00 
 
 Calf antique extra $5.00 
 
 Cheap edition, 12mo, cloth.1.25 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 1.75 
 
 Half calf, antique 2.37 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..3. 00 
 
 15 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 Gray — Poetical Works of Thomas Gray : 
 
 With Illustrations by C. W, Radcltffe. Edited wioi a Memoir, 
 by Henry Reed, Professor of English Literature in the 
 University of Pennsylvania. In one volume, 8vo. 
 
 Cloth, gilt edges $3.50 
 
 Half calf, antique 4.50 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..5. 50 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra. ...5.50 
 Calf antique extra $5.50 
 
 Lady of the Lake. 
 
 By Sir Walter Scott. Illustrated with Plates, by John Gil- 
 bert. In one volume, royal 8vo. New edition. 
 
 Without illustrations, 
 
 12mo, cloth 75 
 
 Cloth, gilt edge 1.12 
 
 Half calf, antique 1.62 
 
 Turk. sup. extra 2.25 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges. ..$5.00 
 
 Half calf, antique 6,00 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..7. 00 
 Turk, moroc, ant. extra. ..7. 00 
 Calf antique extra 7.00 
 
 Lalla Rookh, 
 
 By Thomas Moore. Illustrated by 13 Plates, from Designs by 
 CoRBOULD, Meadows, and Stephanoff. 1 vol. royal 8vo. 
 
 A new, cheap edition, with 
 frontispiece, 12mo,cloth...75 
 
 Cloth extra, gilt edges 1.12 
 
 Half calf, antique 1.62 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extro...2.25 
 
 Cloth, extra, gilt edges. ..$5.00 
 
 Half calf, antique 6.00 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..7.00 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra. ..7. 00 
 Calf antique, extra 7.00 
 
 A new, cheap edition, with 
 frontispiece, 12mo, cloth. .75 
 
 Cloth, extra, gilt edges 1.12 
 
 Half calf, antique 1.62 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra. ..2. 25 
 
 Longfelloiv — The Poetical Woi^ks of Hemnj 
 
 Wadswortli Longfellow : 
 
 Illustrated by Plates, after Designs by D. Huntington, with a 
 Portrait. Ninth edition. In one volume, royal 8vo. 
 
 Cloth, extra gilt edges. ..$5. 00 I Turk, moroc. sup. extra.$7.00 
 
 Half calf, antique 6.00 j Turk, moroc. ant. extra. ..7. 00 
 
 Calf antique, extra $7.00 
 
 Poets and Poetry of England in the Nine- 
 
 teentli Century. 
 
 Illustrated. In one volume, royal 
 
 By Rffus W. Griswold. 
 8vo. New edition. 
 
 Cloth, gilt $3.00 
 
 Cloth, extra, gilt edges 3.50 
 
 Half calf, antique 4.50 
 
 16 
 
 Turk, moroc. sup. extra.. $5.00 
 Turk, moroc. ant. extra. ..5. 00 
 Calf antique, extra 5.00 
 

M 
 
 / 
 
 (/^^-i 
 
Webster Famliy Library of Veterinary Medicine 
 Ciimmings School of Veterinary Medicine at 
 Tuft3 University 
 200 Westboro Road 
 North Grafton, MA 01 536 
 

 i':i>\v.,\'.i';: 
 
 liy^ It.Jl I 
 
 m 
 
 (I'M 
 
 tW5HWHW^ 
 
 VI IMFi V\ 1^-1 
 
 y^ 
 
 (wVUi'iJA 
 
 # 
 
 ' '» 1 L'i I ', 
 
 
 li-VLkiL*! 
 
 imMmmt^ -mL... 
 
 »;.: ri'/: 
 
 II 
 
 1 
 
 c^ 
 
 1 
 
 I f! 
 
 TJ, i!VlI7(I 
 
 I 
 
 i ' ;. '-^ 
 
 ' '-'lis* ' 
 
 •'--^''"•''^^^-^ 
 
 
 
 ''',V'',"' 
 
 .;■■.: 
 
 
 ^111^