r 
 
 ONTINENT 
 
 Europe T^friea 
 
WORKS OF J. M. BUCKLEY, LL.D. 
 
 Supposed Miracles .50 
 
 Christians and the Theater, ....... .60 
 
 A Hereditary Consumptive's Successful Battle for Life, . .50 
 
 Oats or Wild Oats? Common Sense for Young Men, . . 1.50 
 
 The Midnight Sun ; the Tsar and the Nihilist. . . . 2.50 
 
 Faith Healing, Christian Science, and Kindred Phenomena, . 1.25 
 
 Travels in Three Continents, ...... 3.50 
 
 Extemporaneous Oratory, ....... 1.50 
 
/ 
 
^ 
 
TRAVELS IN THREE 
 CONTINENTS 
 
 Europe + Hfrica + Hsia 
 
 BY 
 
 J. M. BUCKLEY, LLD. 
 
 NEW YORK: EATON & MAINS 
 CINCINNATI: CURTS & JENNINGS 
 
Copyright by 
 
 HUNT & EATON, 
 
 1894. 
 
PREFATORY NOTE. 
 
 In reading accounts of the same regions by different 
 travelers, I have often been struck with the dissimilarities 
 resulting from the personal equation. Each sees what 
 he takes with him, so that several views are more illumi- 
 nating than one. Because of this I hope that there will be 
 a place for another record of travel in many of the most in- 
 teresting parts of the world. 
 
 Learning by experience, In protracted tours, that a cer- 
 tain amount of information is necessary to the interpreta- 
 tion of what one sees and hears, I have endeavored to 
 interweave such knowledge with the narrative without im- 
 peding the natural flow of description. Thus I desire to 
 aid those who contemplate this journey to prepare for it ; 
 to refresh the recollection of those who have preceded me ; 
 and enable those who do not expect to cross the ocean 
 to see, "while looking through my eyes," almost "as 
 well as with their own." J. M. B. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER 1. 
 
 From New York to the Frontier of Spain. 
 
 To London — In Paris — Anniversary of the Coup d'etat — Glimpse of Bordeaux — 
 The Grotto of Lourdes — Pau and the Pyrenees — Bayonne and Biarritz 1-9 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 " I Take my Journey into Spain." 
 
 Entering Spain — Scenes on the Frontier — San Sebastian — Protestant Missions — 
 The Infant King — Reminiscences of Lafayette — Burgos — Carthusian Mon- 
 astery — Tombs of the Parents of Queen Isabella — The Convent— Legends of 
 the Cid— The Cathedral and Castle ic^iS 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 The Spanish Capital. 
 
 Location of the Capital — Climate — Puerta del Sol — Royal Palace — Review of 
 Troops — Picture Gallery — Visit to the Cortes — Spanish Orators and States- 
 men — The Virgin's Sandal — Protestant Missions — Spanish Horsemen. . . 19-29 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 The Eseorial, Toledo, and Cordova. 
 
 Situation of the Eseorial — Character of Philip — Interior of the Eseorial — Descrip- 
 tion of Toledo — Its Cathedral — Picturesque Gates — Ruined ^^'alls — Ancient 
 Churches — The Alcazar — Journey to Cordova — Cathedral and Great Mosque. 
 
 30-42 
 CHAPTER V. 
 " Proud Seville." 
 
 General Description of Seville — Tobacco and Porcelain Factories — The Hospital — 
 Picture Gallery — The Colombina Library — The Cathedral — Tomb of the Son 
 of Columbus 43-49 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Alhambra. 
 
 Approaching Granada — Not Disappointed in the Alhambra— Description — History 
 — Purpose — Splendor — Iconoclasm of the Christians — Ravages of the French 
 under Napoleon — Mystery and Magic of the Alhambra 5o-S7 
 
viii Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Granada and Malaga. 
 
 The Cartujan Convent — Its Beautiful Church — Cathedral and the Sepulchers and 
 Graves of Ferdinand and Isabella- — Gypsies — Malaga — lis Fruit, Superb Scenery 
 — Beggars — Visitors — Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve — Suburbs 5S-65 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Peculiarities of tlie Spaniards. 
 
 Aspect of Spanish People— Spectacles in Squares and Streets — Spanish Politeness — 
 Amusements — Morals — Lotteries — Women — Guardias Civiles — Religion, Cath- 
 olic and Protestant 66-73 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 The Bullfights of Spain. 
 
 Popularity of Bullfights — Cost — Description— Attempts to Suppress — Attitude of 
 the Church 74-80 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 To " Afrie's Sunny Fountains." 
 
 Voyage to Tangier — Views Along the Route — .\rrival^Street Scenes — A Moorish 
 School Si-86 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 The Eye of Africa. 
 The Great Market — Caravan — Distinctions Indicated by Dress — Slavery Past and 
 Present — The Prison — Coffee House — Suburbs 89-93 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Condition and Outlook of Morocco. 
 
 Difficulty of Obtaining Information — Government — The Sultan — Mohammedanism 
 in Morocco — Decadence and Probable Fate of the Nation 94-100 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Gibraltar. 
 
 Landing — Steamer Flying American Flag — Long Service of the Hon. Horatio J. 
 Sprague — Famous \'isitors to Gibraltar — Population — Military .\spect- — Curious 
 Spectacles— Markets — Tailless Monkeys 103-108 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Gibraltar. — (Continued.) 
 
 Geological Formation — History — Tour of Exploration — View from the Highest 
 Point — Gibraltar Compared with the North Cape — Power of England. 109-116 
 
Contents. ix 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Algeria. 
 
 Voyage from Gibraltar to Oran— Description of Oran— Railway Journey to Algiers 
 —Its Appearance on Approaching by Night— Jardin des Flanles— Old Arab 
 Town—" Marabouts " ' 19-125 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Algiers and the Atlas Mountains. 
 
 The Black Virgin— Strange Ceremony— Interview with a Moor— Algerine Pirates- 
 Arab Cemetery— Bearded Priests— Power of the Jews— Sir Peter Coates— Tour 
 to the Atlas Mountains— French Engineering — Apes — Wild Animals. 126-136 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Marseilles and the French Biviera. 
 
 Harbor— Cathedral — Church of Notre Dame de la Garde — Cannes — Nice — Monaco 
 and Monte Carlo — Tragic Incidents — Mentone — Mr. Spurgeon 137-142 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Genoa and Milan. 
 
 Statue of Columbus — Description of City — Cathedral of San Lorenzo — History — 
 The Conservatorii — Via di Circottvallazioiie — Campo Santo — Situation of 
 Milan— Cathedral— The Roof— View from the Tower— Church of San Ani- 
 brogio — Gallery of Victor Emmanuel — Cemetery — Parade Ground — Triumphal 
 Arch 1 43-157 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Venice — The Knehanted City. 
 
 History — Situation — Piazza and Church of San Marco — Tomb of St. Mark — Palace 
 of the Doges — Roman Catholic Mission Church — Grand Canal — Campanile — 
 View from the Top of the Tower 158-166 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Florence — Shrine of Art, Science, 'Literature. 
 
 Famous Artists and Scientists — Situation of Florence — Cathedral — Church of 
 Santa Croce — Monastery of St. Mark — Fiesole — Ruins and Views — Galileo's 
 Tower— The "Golden Book" 167-173 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Home— The Encyclopedic City. 
 
 Glance at Rome's History — Seven Hills — Tiber — Pantheon — Column of Marcus 
 Aurelius — Grand Circus — Forum — .\rch of Constantine — .\ppian Way — 
 Mamertine Prison — Catacombs — .\ugustinian Monastery — Capucine Cemetery 
 —St. Peter's — Palace of the \'atican — Sistine Chapel — St. Paul Without the 
 Walls — New Rome 1 74-1S6 
 
X Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Naples — The Wanton Beauty. 
 
 Noted Residents of and Visitors to Naples — Beauty of Situation — Cathedral — 
 Miracle of Liquefaction — National Museum — Aquarium — Neapolitan Peculi- 
 arities and Morals — Corso Garibaldi and Corso Vittorio Emanuele — Improve- 
 ments 187-192 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Vesuvius and Pompeii. 
 
 Ascent of Vesuvius — At the Summit — History of the Volcano — Edge of the Crater 
 — The Descent — Pompeii — Streets — Houses — Baths — Theater — Pathetic Dis- 
 coveries 193-199 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 The Italian People. 
 
 Excitability — Vanity — Superstition — Patience — Simplicity — Improvement — Igno- 
 rance — Loretto — Religious Relics and Alleged Miracles — Work of Protestants 
 — Opposition Encountered 200-204 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Going Down to Egypt. 
 
 Brindisi — Coast of Greece — Candia — Gaudo — Coast of Egypt — Arriving in Alex- 
 andria — Pharos — View of City and Harbor from the Base of Pompey's Pillar — 
 Site of Cleopatra's Needles — Journey to Cairo 205-209 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Cairo— The " Mother of the World," and Heliopolis. 
 
 Strange Scenes — Citadel and Mosque of Mohammed Ali — Mosque of Sultan Hassan 
 -^Mosque of Amer at Old Cairo — Island of Roda — Nilometer — Palace of 
 Gezireh and of the Khedive — The Only Egyptian Lunatic Asylum — Virgin's 
 Tree — Heliopolis — Ostrich Farm 210-220 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 
 
 Road to Pyramids, and Scenes upon It — Traveling Bedouins — Ascent of Great 
 Pyramid — View from Summit — Interior of Cheops—" King's Chamber." 
 
 221-228 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 The Pyramids and the Sphinx.— (Continued.) 
 
 History of Pyramids and Reasons Why They Were Built — Description of the 
 Sphinx — Antiquit) — Campbell's Tomb — Extraordinary Agility of a Bedouin — 
 Incidents of the Trip 229-237 
 
Contents. xi 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 On the Nile. 
 
 Importance of the Nile— Cause of Annual Overflow— Influence upon Intellectual 
 Character of Egyptians— Way of Traveling on the Nile before Steamboats 
 Were Introduced — Passengers on the Prince Abbas 238-242 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 Memphis and Sakkara. 
 
 Scene at Starting— The Khedive's Steam Yacht— Scenery— Scramble of Donkey 
 Boys for Riders— The Greatest Capital of Egypt— Colossal Statue of Rameses 
 II— Sakkara— The Step Pyramid and Serapeum— Description of Interior of 
 Step Pyramid — Account of Discovery of Serapeum by Mariette Bey.. 243-248 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 The Tomb of Tih, and the Voyage and Visit to Beni-Hassan. 
 
 Painting in Tomb of Tih — Pyramid of Maydoom— Characteristic Scenes— Nile 
 Fish— Palms— Cliffs of Gebel et Tayr— The " Mountain of the Bird," and its 
 Legend— Origin of Fable of Charon and the River Styx— Tombs of Beni- 
 Hassan 249-255 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 A Diversified Journey. 
 
 Village of Beni-Hassan— Methods Used by Beggars— Sugar Factory— Dom Palms 
 — Asyoot— Oriental Market Scenes 256-262 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 Asyoot to the Temple of Denderah, 
 
 Bazaars and Market Place— Starting Point of English Expedition to the Soudan- 
 Ancient Lycopolis — Evidences of Roman Occupation — Mission of United Pres- 
 byterian Church— Ophthalmia Prevalent in Eg)-pt— Scenes at Farshool and 
 Keneh— The Temple of Denderah 263-267 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 Denderah and Nile Experiences. 
 
 Forgotten Credentials — Chapel of Isis— Stories of the Tentyrites— Inhabitants of 
 Orubos— The Crocodile— The Shadoof and Sakeeyali—'SA\&\z& in Egypt. 
 
 268-274 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Thebes. 
 
 Approaching Thebes— Situation— History— Village of Luxor— Ruins and Village 
 Life Contrasted—" Father .Abraham's " Knowledge of .Antiquities— "Antiquity 
 Smith" — Avenue of Sphinxes— Karnak — Description of Great Temple — Weird 
 Scene 275-283 
 
xii Contexts. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Temples and Tombs of Thebes, on the "West Bank of the Nile. 
 
 Temple of Koornah — Approach to the Rameseum— Sculptures and Statue of 
 Rameses— Ride through the Plains— Temple of Ptolemy Philopater— Belzoni's 
 Tomb 284-292 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 Ascent of the Libyan Mountains. 
 
 Barrenness of the Mountains — View from Summit — The Descent — Colossi — "Vocal 
 Statue of Memnon " 293-298 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Life in Modern Thebes. 
 
 Entertainment by the Consul at Thebes — An Oriental Dinner at the House of the 
 British Consul — Wonderful Boy Gymnast — A Huge Monkey — Karnak by 
 Moonlight — \^arieties of Stone in Egypt 299-302 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 From Thebes to the First Cataract. 
 
 Temple of Edfoo — Kom-ombos — Island of Elephantine — Camel Riding — Assouan 
 — Nubian Boatmen's Song — Ride to Phila; — Ancient Methods of Quarrying 
 Stone — Description of Philae — Temple of Isis — The First Cataract — Herod- 
 otus on the Sources of the Nile — Aquatic Feats at the Cataract — An Hour in 
 the Desert — Experience of Foolhardy Tourists with Robbers — Nubians — .\ 
 Solitary Palm 303-314 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 Down the River. 
 
 Southern Cross — To Luxor — Meeting David Dudley Field — Aground Fifteen 
 Times— .A.n Alarming Illness — Arrival at Cairo — Kaiserswerth Hospital — 
 Boolak Museum 315-322 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 Mohammedanism in Egypt. 
 
 Theories of Mohammed — Peculiarities of the Koran and its Teachings — Polygamy 
 —Mohammedan Services — University to Educate Mohammedan Priests- 
 Chapel of the Blind — Performance of Howling Dervishes — The Copts — Coptic 
 Churches and Language — Greek Church— Protestant Missions 3^3-333 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 The Suez Canal, and the Last of Egypt. 
 
 An Entertainment at the House of Dr. Grant Bey- Mr. Petrie— A Sandstorm— By 
 Rail to the Suez Canal— Ismailia — History and Description of the Canal- 
 Ride on the Canal to Port Said— Characteristics of the Place— Festivities at the 
 Opening of the Canal — Leaving Africa 334-338 
 
Contents. xiii 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 Entering the Holy Land. 
 
 Approaching the Turkish Empire— The Harbor at Jaffa— Landing— .\ncient 
 History — Modern Features — Fruit and Flowers — People — Incident of Napoleon 
 Bonaparte 34'-3-I4 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 " In the Way Going Up to Jerusalem." 
 
 The Road to Jerusalem— Plain of Sharon— Flowers— Road to Lydda— Tower of 
 Ramleh—Gezer— Valley of Ajalon (Yaloi— Latrun— Amwas— Abou-Gosch— 
 Mizpah — Jerusalem ! 345-351 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 Situation— History— Population 352-357 
 
 CHAPTER XLVI. 
 
 Outside the ^A'alls of Jerusalem. 
 
 The Valleys of Gihon and Hinnom- Pool of Siloam— Fountain of the Virgin- 
 Valley of the Kidron— Garden of Gethsemane— Tomb of the Virgin— Mount of 
 Olives— View from the Summit— Tombs of the Kings— Tomb and Grotto of 
 Jeremiah— Walls and Gates of the City 358-374 
 
 CHAPTER XLVII. 
 
 The Sacred Places. 
 
 The Harain Esh Sherif— Herod's Temple— Mosque of Omar— Mosque El-Aksa— 
 Wailing Place of the Jews— TVa Do/o>osa— Church of the Holy Sepulcher— 
 Identity of Site 377-394 
 
 CHAPTER XLVIII. 
 Bethlehem and the Convent of Mar Saba. 
 
 An Ancient Guide— "A Vain Thing for Safety "—Tomb of Rachel— Situation and 
 History of Bethlehem— Birthplace of Christ— Church of the Nativity— Tomb 
 of St. Jerome— The Weird Convent of Mar Saba— History— Rules of the Order 
 of Monks 395-404 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX. 
 
 The Dead Sea, The Jordan, Jericho, and Bethany. 
 
 Wilderness of Engedi — Tomb of Moses — Beautiful Views — Peculiarities of the 
 Dead Sea Explained— Pillars of Salt— The Jordan— Ancient Gilgal— Russian 
 Pilgrims— Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — Tower of David in Jerusalem. 405-417 
 
xiv Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 
 Peculiarities of Modern Palestine. 
 
 Jews — Greek Church — Visit to the Patriarch — Russian Church and Pilgrims — 
 Armenians— Copts— Abyssinians — Roman Catholics — Protestants — Places of 
 Amusement — Societ)' — Sect of the " German Temple "—Lunatics — The "Amer- 
 ican Colony " — Lepers and Leprosy • 418-427 
 
 CHAPTER LI. 
 
 Leaving Jerusalem. 
 
 Description of the Caravan — Shafut — Ramallah — El-Bireh— Bethel — Ai — A Slave 
 Lost — Robbers' Glen — Caravan of Camels— A Night of Storm and Terror at 
 Sinjil 428-432 
 
 CHAPTER LH. 
 
 From Shiloh to Gerizim. 
 
 A Day in a Mohammedan Village — Children and Dogs — A Mohammedan Cemetery 
 — Shiloh — Bible Events Connected with the Place -Jacob's Well — Discovery 
 Made by Bishop Barclay — Climbing the " Mount of Blessing " — Formation of 
 the Summit — Ruins Found There 433-437 
 
 CHAPTER LIH. 
 Sheehem, Samaria, Jenin. 
 
 Events of Sacred History Connected w^th Nabulus— The Modern Town — Samaritans 
 — Samaritan Codex of the Pentateuch — Across the Valley of Samaria — Street 
 of Columns — The Plain of Esdraelon — Jenin 438-441 
 
 CHAPTER LIV. 
 
 Jezreel, Nain, and the Cave of the Witch of Endor. 
 
 Figs and Palms — Jezreel — A Bedouin Camp — Dogs in Palestine — Fountain of 
 Gideon — The Beautiful Village of Shunem— Caravan Route— Nain — An 
 Elderly Appearing Boy — Endor and its Tragic History — Cave of the Witch . 
 
 442-446 
 
 CHAPTER LV. 
 
 Tabor and Nazareth. 
 
 Views Ascending — From the Summit— Ruins — Vesper Music in the Russian Con- 
 vent Chapel— Strange Flowerpots— Lost in a Forest— Nazareth— Population— 
 Buildings— Mary's Well — Mounts of Precipitation — Reliques of the Christ. 
 
 449-457 
 
 CHAPTER LVL 
 
 From Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee by Way of Cana. 
 
 Kefr-Kenna— Mount of Beatitudes— First View of the Sea of Galilee— Tiberias- 
 Description of the Sea — History of the Town— Grave of Maimonides— Two 
 Protestant Services on Sunday — The Protestant Mission in Tiberias.. 458-466 
 
Contents. xv 
 
 CHAPTER LVII. 
 
 From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 
 
 Four Hours upon Galilee — A Fishing Boat — Ruins of Capernaum — Vividness of 
 Bible Narratives — Ain-et-Tin — Road to Banias — Encampment of Bedouins — 
 Joseph's Well — Waters of Merom — Dan — Banias — Alleged Attempt at Rob- 
 bery Fountain of the Jordan — Probable Scene of the Transfiguration — Druses 
 
 and Maronites — Ascending Hermon — Traditional Scene of Saul's Conver- 
 sion 467-479 
 
 CHAPTER LVIII. 
 
 Dannaseus. 
 
 Antiquity and Beauty of the City — History of the Great Mosque — Massacre of the 
 Christians — The Street that is Called Straight — Improbable Legends — Protes- 
 tant Mission — Grave of Henry Thomas Buckle — Salahiyeh 480-490 
 
 CHAPTER LIX. 
 
 Damascus to Beirut. 
 
 Varieties of Weather and Scenery — Through the Lebanon Pass — Unique Lunatic 
 Asylum — Origin and Situation of Beirut — Syrian Protestant College — Other 
 Christian Missions — Grave of Bishop Kingsley 491-496 
 
 CHAPTER LX. 
 
 Cyprus and Noted Islands of the ^Egean Sea. 
 
 Cyprus — Lanarca — Greek Church of St. Lazarus — Rhodes — The Colossus — Symi — 
 Kos, Birthplace of Apelles, Hippocrates, and Simonides — The Rock Island, 
 Patmos — Classic Interest of Samos — Scio 497-503 
 
 CHAPTER LXI. 
 
 Smyrna and Ephesus. 
 
 Beauty of Smyrna — Figs, Drugs, and Rugs — Cosmopolitan Population — Languages 
 — Wandering Tribes — Religions — Tomb of Polycarp — Importance of Ephesus 
 — Ruins of the Stadium, Odeon, and Great Theater — Temple of Diana — In- 
 cidents in Paul's Life Connected with Ephesus — Legend of the Seven Sleep- 
 ers 504-5 14 
 
 CHAPTER LXII. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 The Piraeus — Tomb of Themistocles— Modern History — The Olympieum and 
 Stadium— Theater of Dionysus — Odeum— Propylaa— Parthenon— View from 
 the Acropolis— Mars' Hill— Hill of the Pnyx— Institutions of Athens — Mount 
 Lykabettos 515-523 
 
xvi Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER LXIII. 
 
 Corinth. 
 
 En route — Situation and Importance — History — The Modern Town — Ruins at Old 
 Corinth — Kraneion, the Home of Diogenes— Prospect from Acro-Corinth — 
 Characteristics of the Greek People 524-530 
 
 CHAPTER LXIV. 
 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Salonica — .Mount Athos — The Dardanelles — Beauty of Constantinople Seen from 
 
 the Sea of Marmora — ^The Golden Horn — Constantinople Made up of Three 
 
 Dissimilar Cities — Disenchantment — Dr. Long — The Seraglio — Imperial Gate 
 
 —Santa Sophia 531-543 
 
 CHAPTER LXV. 
 
 Constantinople. — (Continued.) 
 
 The Sultan's Forty-seventh Birthday — The Floating Bridge — Along the Shore of 
 the Bosporus to the Black Sea — Ships and Boats — The Armenians — Head of 
 the Greek Church — Support of Mosques — Muezzin — Philanthropies of the 
 Mosque of Suliman — Spinning Dervishes — Robert College 544-555 
 
 CHAPTER LXVI. 
 
 Constantinople. — (Con eluded.) 
 
 Turkish Burying Grounds of Scutari — Englisli Cemetery and Florence Nightingale's 
 Hospital — American Bible House — Portraits of the Sultans — Rise and Fall of 
 the Janizaries — The Turk — Column of the Three Serpents — Fountains — Cen- 
 sorship of the Press — A Translator Perforce — The Sultan and Laborer. 
 
 556-566 
 
 CHAPTER LXVIL 
 
 Flight through Eastern Roumelia, Bulgaria, Servia, Hungary, and 
 Vienna, to Paris and New York. 
 
 Adrianople — Philippopolis — Government of Eastern Roumelia — Convention of 
 Protestant Mission Workers — Sofia — Bulgarian Church — Picturesque Costumes 
 — Buda-Pesth — The National Museum — \'ienna — Emperor Franz Josef- 
 Paris Exposition 567-573 
 
 IN DEX 575 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Dahabeah on the Nile Frontispiece 
 
 Pack 
 
 Characteristic View of Lourdes 5 
 
 High Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos 15 
 
 Exterior View of the Cross of Cathedral of Burgos 17 
 
 La Plaza Major 21 
 
 Facsimile of the Sandal of the Holy Virgin 27 
 
 Street of St. Thomas in Toledo 30 
 
 The Escorial 31 
 
 Cathedral of Toledo 37 
 
 Vista of Interior of Cathedral of Cordova 41 
 
 Cathedral of Seville 47 
 
 Temple of the East of the Court of Lions 53 
 
 Court of the Myrtles 56 
 
 Granada and the Alhambra 59 
 
 Gypsy' Quarters in Granada 61 
 
 Preliminary Skirmishes in a Bullfight 75 
 
 Tangier 83 
 
 Moorish Village 87 
 
 Snake Charmer gc 
 
 Moors on a Journey 95 
 
 Gibraltar 102 
 
 Defenses of Gibraltar 113 
 
 Scene in Oran 117 
 
 Moorish Woman in Street Costume 123 
 
 Kabyle Family on a Journey 131 
 
 Cathedral of Milan 147 
 
 Interior of Cathedral. 151 
 
 Monument of Leonardo da Vinci 155 
 
 Regatta on Grand Canal 159 
 
 Bridge of Sighs 163 
 
 Duomo of Florence 168 
 
 Gate of St. Paul 175 
 
 Roman Forum . 179 
 
 Murillo's Sacred Family 183 
 
 Raphael's Sacred Family 185 
 
 Vesuvius and Pompe i 104 
 
 Entrance to Pyramid 223 
 
 The Sphin.K 233 
 
xviii List of Illustrations. 
 
 Page 
 
 Step Pyramid of Sakkara 245 
 
 Tombs of Beni-Hassan 253 
 
 Cemetery at Asyoot 259 
 
 Cleopatra — Temple of Denderah 269 
 
 Shadoof 271 
 
 Temple of Karnak 2S1 
 
 View of Temple of Rameses II 2S5 
 
 Carvings on the Rameseum 289 
 
 Statues of Memnon 1 295 
 
 Island of Phite 307 
 
 Nubians 313 
 
 Howling Dervish 327 
 
 Jaffa (Joppaj 339 
 
 Mizpah 351 
 
 Jaffa Gate 353 
 
 Valley of Hinnoni 359 
 
 The Brook Kidron 363 
 
 Mount of Olives 367 
 
 View of Jerusalem from Mount of Olives 371 
 
 The Golden Gate 375 
 
 Mosque of Omar 379 
 
 Wailing Place of the Jews 3^3 
 
 Chapel of the Scourging ,387 
 
 Church of the Holy Sepulcher 39i 
 
 Interior of the Holy Sepulcher 393 
 
 Convent of Mar Saba 401 
 
 The Dead Sea 407 
 
 The Jordan 411 
 
 Bethany 415 
 
 Tower of David 423 
 
 Mount Tabor 447 
 
 Nazareth 452 
 
 Cana 459 
 
 Tiberias, Sea of Galilee 463 
 
 Capernaum 4^9 
 
 Mount Hermon 477 
 
 Damascus from Cemetery 481 
 
 Court of the Great Mosque 485 
 
 Beirut 493 
 
 Isle of Patmos 501 
 
 Athens 5i7 
 
 Ruins of Temple at Acro-Corinth 525 
 
 Constantinople and the Golden Horn 533 
 
 Mosque of Santa Sophia 54^ 
 
 Bosporus and Castle of Asia 545 
 
 Dervishes 55i 
 
 Buda-Pesth 569 
 
Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 From New York to the Frontier of Spain. 
 
 To London — In Paris — Anniversary of the Coup d'etat — Glimpse of Bor- 
 (leaux — The Grotto of Lourdes — Pau and the Pyrenees — Bayonne and 
 Biarritz. 
 
 Accompanied by a member of the senior class in Amherst 
 College, whom my proposed outline of travel had allured 
 from his studies at the expense of delaying his graduation, at 
 6:30 on Wednesday morning, November 21, 1888, I sailed fur 
 Liverpool, arriving on the seventh day. I contrast that flight 
 with my first voyage to the same port early in 1863, which was 
 fourteen days in length, and advertised in the English papers 
 as a remarkably quick passage. 
 
 Five hours after our arrival in Liverpool we were in Lon- 
 don, which was enveloped in a dense fog during the forty- 
 eight hours of our stay. The business which called us there 
 having been transacted, we hastened to Paris by way of Folke- 
 stone and Boulogne. How charming Kent looked as we rode 
 through! The trees not yet denuded of leaves, the farmers 
 plowing, the sheep and cattle on the green hillsides made a true 
 English pastoral scene. 
 
 The British Channel, generally vicious, was smooth as "a 
 painted ocean." The walk about Paris on Saturday evening 
 showed the same smiling, gossiping, pleasure loving, flip- 
 pant city as of yore. Sunday was bright, clear, and the air 
 crisp as a New England October day, yet it was a time. of 
 apprehension to the citizens, the thirty-seventh anniversary 
 of the coup d'etat. A procession took place under the man- 
 agement of the radical municipal council of Paris, ostensibly 
 2 
 
2 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 to strew flowers on the tomb of Alphonse Baudin, a deputy who 
 was shot down upon the barricades on the day when Louis 
 Napoleon transformed the Republic into an Empire. 
 
 The procession, which was more than two miles in length, 
 occupied two hours in passing a given point, and a chain of 
 police kept back the crowds estimated at a half million, dis- 
 tributed along the route. Those who were marching did so, 
 for the most part, in absolute silence. There were no arms; 
 there was no instrumental music, though the Marseillaise hymn 
 was frequently sung with spirit. Occasionally there was rail- 
 lery between the crowds and those in the parade, and cries 
 were heard of "Fire Boiilanger !" and the counter cries of 
 '■'A bas Boiilanger !" 
 
 None of those terrible men with blue blouses, nor of the 
 "unwashed" sans culottes, who have figured in mobs, took 
 part in this procession. The only hostile demonstrations 
 were incited by the raising of a socialistic red flag. For a 
 moment the uproar was tremendous, the cries incoherent 
 and furious, the attitudes menacing; men, women, and chil- 
 dren fled like sheep; but the police seized the flag and an ob- 
 noxious placard, and the tumult subsided. 
 
 In the town where I was reared lived a retired sea cap- 
 tain who told me of some of his adventures at Bordeaux, 
 and from then until I visited it the name has had a witching 
 interest for me. I found a city with a quarter of a million 
 of population, connected by water with both the Mediter- 
 ranean and the Atlantic; its streets adorned with noble build- 
 ings; its commerce second in volume in France, sustaining 
 the closest commercial relations to the United States, and 
 having a romantic history. 
 
 Its wines have made it famous. A writer divides them 
 into five classes as to quality. Half of the best goes to 
 England; Paris takes a second, third, and fourth rate, witt 
 a small amount of the best; Russia, considerable of the best; 
 Holland, the second and third; and the United States, the 
 third, fourth, and fifth, with a limited quantity of the best. 
 
 When Benjamin Franklin went from the United States to 
 represent the Colonies struggling for freedom, the sailing 
 vessel landed him in Bordeaux, suggesting one of the most 
 
 SI 
 
From New York to the Frontier of Spain. 3 
 
 important events in the history of this country, for the 
 powerful intervention of France in its behalf depended much 
 upon the influence of Franklin. One of the striking spec- 
 tacles in Bordeaux is the miles upon miles of shipping, dis- 
 playing every flag in the civilized world. 
 
 From a commercial citv to the chief modern seat of alleged 
 miraculous powers in western Europe, is indeed a transition, 
 but we experienced it after traveling one hundred and sixty- 
 seven miles to Lourdes. For fiftv miles after leaving Bor- 
 deaux one could easily have imagined himself journeying in 
 North Carolina, for the eye could see nothing but pines, inter- 
 spersed with cottages and cultivated grounds. Such scenery 
 is monotonous and desolate on a cloudy day; but when sun- 
 light illumines earth and sky, and the warm breath of the pines 
 finds its way to the face of the traveler, if not diversified, it is 
 far from dull. 
 
 Gradually the face of the country became more hilly when, 
 surmounting green valleys upon whose sides sheep and cattle 
 were grazing, arose suddenly above the horizon the long line 
 of the Pyrenees, snow-clad and resplendent in the full flood 
 of sunlight, with here and there a fleecy cloud resting upon 
 their loftiest peaks. A passenger in our compartment, a med- 
 ical professor in the University of Paris, as the wonderful pan- 
 orama greeted us, exclaimed: "This is my country! I was 
 born in the Hautes-Pyrenees." 
 
 Lourdes is in the heart of the Pyrenees, surrounded by 
 mountains, the highest of which glisten by day like ice 
 palaces, are transformed at sunset into burnished pyramids 
 of gold, and into huge lamps of silver when the moonlight 
 whitens them. From a hundred elevations in and around 
 the valley, varying in height from three hundred to three 
 thousand feet, views may be had, any one of which, were it 
 not for the wealth of splendor lavished upon the whole region 
 of the Pyrenees, would make the place attractive to lovers of 
 the beautiful, and a magnet even to those who worship the 
 sublime. From some of these heights I beheld landscapes 
 whose aspect could be so changed as to challenge recognition 
 by a difference of not more than fifty yards in the point of 
 view. We saw remains of walls built by the Romans, and 
 
4 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 visited a ruined castle wiiich withstood a protracted seige in 
 tlie time of Charlemagne. 
 
 Till about thirty years ago Lourdes had scarcely been heard 
 of; but in the year 1858, eighteen times between February 
 and Jul}', the Holy Virgin, it is alleged, appeared in a grotto 
 at the foot of a rock, to a little peasant girl by the name of 
 Bernadette Soubirous. The child was twelve years old, and 
 her business that of feeding hogs. The substance of what it 
 is claimed was said to her is: "I do not promise to make you 
 happy in this world, but in the other. I desire that many people 
 shall come here. You shall pray for sinners. You shall kiss 
 the ground for sinners. Penitence! Penitence! Penitence! 
 Go, tell the priests that a chapel must be built here. I de- 
 sire that pilgrims may come here in procession. Go and drink 
 of the fountain, and bathe there. You shall eat of the grass 
 which is near it. I am the Immaculate Conception." 
 
 No one except Bernadette could see the vision, but one 
 hundred and fifty thousand visited the grotto during the six 
 months after the first of the visions. When subsequent 
 trances occurred, multitudes of these were present watching 
 the child, whose face, when she said the Virgin appeared, 
 "'seemed to be glorified by a holy light and beauty entirely 
 unnoticeable at other times, and which continued till the 
 vision fled." To prove her identity, the A'irgin caused a 
 spring of water to burst from the earth. It is certain that a 
 spring, previously unnoticed, exists. Cures followed the drink- 
 ing of the water and bathing in it, and such crowds flocked 
 to the place that the authorities, not believing in the reality 
 of the visions or of the cures, forbade persons to approach the 
 grotto, and would not allow votive offerings placed in the 
 church. But the people continued to come, the bishop of the 
 diocese of Tarbes encouraging them. 
 
 Various medical men and other prominent citizens certified 
 to the genuineness of the miracle. Finally Pope Pius IX 
 was persuaded to sanction the opinions of the bishop. Rev- 
 enues flowed to the church, the town grew rapidly, hotels and 
 pensions were called for to accommodate the pilgrims, thirty 
 or forty thousand sometimes arriving in one day. A hand- 
 some church and many other buildings have been constructed. 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 a' 
 
 r 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 M 
 
From New York to the Frontier of Spain. 7 
 
 a square laid out, an image erected representing the ^'irgin 
 as she appeared to the girl, and roads cut through the hills 
 and rocks. We found the church filled with offerings from 
 those helped or cured, or whose friends had been benefited. 
 The grotto, ,which was formerly called the Grotte de Massa- 
 vielle, is known as the Grotte de la Vierge (the Virgin). 
 
 Kneeling before the image of the A^irgin were many pilgrims 
 drinking the water, bottling and carrying it away, and some, 
 both men and women, with outstretched arms, praying with 
 intense earnestness. The town contains the ordinary propor- 
 tion of cripples, lunatics, sick children, and more than the 
 average number of persistent beggars. 
 
 As we were dining in the hotel a nun with attractive man- 
 ners advanced to the table and inquired if we spoke English. 
 As I was responding in the affirmative she gave us to under- 
 stand that she could not speak a word of English, and began 
 bv signs to beseech us for money to assist in building a 
 hospital to take care of poor pilgrims, aged and abandoned, 
 and the sick who were brought there to drink and wash 
 themselves in the miraculous fountains. She presented a 
 paper stating that no matter how little we might bestow our 
 names would be inscribed in a special register; that if we 
 gave a thousand francs or more our names, with a title of 
 " Founder," should be engraved in letters of gold on a marble 
 tablet; five hundred francs would give us the title of "Bene- 
 factor," a mass would be said once a month in perpetuity, 
 and the poor pray every day for us, and especially would the 
 Blessed Virgin call down upon us the choicest celestial bless- 
 ings, and God would give it back to us a hundredfold. 
 
 We drank of the water at the fountain, but were not a whit 
 the better nor any the worse. It was pure and good, and we 
 brought away a bottle of it. 
 
 Only nine miles from Lourdes is Betharram. Its church 
 stands at the foot of a hill, and upon the slope are thirty- 
 two praying places, erected of granite, and from the bottom 
 to the top of the long declivity thirty years ago crowds of 
 pilgrims climbed, many upon their knees, pausing for prayer 
 at each place. Numerous cures were reported, but now 
 Lourdes flourishes and Bettharam is almost deserted. 
 
8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 It is so all over Europe under Greek, Roman, Armenian, 
 and Mohammedan forms. The fame of supernatural cures 
 arises, has its brief day, and a new locality or "Home " takes 
 its turn. Similar traditions, connecting alleged supernatural 
 healings with places, living persons, signs, and relics, have a 
 strong foothold in Protestantism. 
 
 From Lourdes to Pau is but twenty-four miles, and the rail- 
 *way runs through the valley of the Gave, making a descent of 
 several hundred feet before this fashionable resort is reached. 
 1 cannot conceive a more beautiful region for a pedestrian or 
 equestrian tour. The successive villages with their churches, 
 the diversified hill scenery, with occasional mountain views, 
 the Gave meandering like a silver thread, and occasionally 
 descending rapidly in short cataracts, form a charming picture. 
 
 Pau is a watering place, much affected by English and 
 Americans. From the river rises sharply the hill on which the 
 hotels and the city are situated, being more than two hundred 
 and fifty feet in perpendicular height. The square is reached 
 by a winding road. From the chief hotels, Gassion and De 
 France, the western Pyrenees for a distance of fifty or sixty 
 miles are in full view. In the center stand the Pic du Midi 
 de Bigorre in the east, and the Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the 
 west. This splendid view is by some compared to that from 
 the streets of Bern; it does not equal it in grandeur, for the 
 Pyrenees are not sufticiently high and are too near to rival 
 the view of the Bernese Oberland. 
 
 The castle, celebrated as the birthplace of Henri of Navarre, 
 is an interesting link between ancient and modern French 
 history. John Calvin, by order of Margaret of Valois, was con- 
 fined in one of the towers, five of which remain. Had not 
 Calvin been persecuted in France, probably he would not have 
 found his way to Geneva, and the larger part of his history 
 might not have been written. Bernadotte, King of Sweden, 
 was born in Pau, the son of a saddler; he went away as a 
 drummer boy. In the castle are shown fine specimens of 
 Swedish porphyry which he sent while king, 
 
 Pau is a delightful place in the winter for the well and those 
 not much indisposed, but too cold and changeable for confirmed 
 invalids. 
 
From New York to the Frontier of Spain. 9 
 
 The situation and fortifications of Bayonne have always made 
 it a place of more than local interest. It is the last important 
 town in France, and in the direct route to Spain. The Adour 
 and Nive come together at this point, three miles from the 
 place where they fall into the Bay of Biscay. 'I'hey divide the 
 town into three parts, and, with the three bridges, form not 
 only an excellent harbor, but add to the beauty of the city. 
 
 After visiting the small but symmetrical cathedral, I ex- 
 plored the fortifications, having a better opportunity for form- 
 ing an idea of their dimensions than I desired, as I lost my way 
 about sundown and walked two miles in the wrong direction. 
 
 The bayonet, now used in every land, takes its name from 
 Bayonne, owing to a circumstance which occurred in 1523. A 
 Basque regiment, in an engagement with the Spaniards, having 
 used up their powder, fastened their knives upon the ends of 
 their muskets and made a successful charge upon the enemy. 
 
 It was here that Catherine de' Medici and the Duke of Alva 
 planned the massacre of St. Bartholomew, but when the order 
 was issued by Charles IX, Orthez, the governor of Bayonne, 
 refused to execute it. Pau, where he was born, boasts of the 
 fact to this day. 
 
 Five miles from Bayonne is Biarritz, which was the perfec- 
 tion of beauty on the two days that we were there. It is upon 
 the shore of the Bay of Biscay, whose waters were smooth as 
 glass, clear as crystal, and bright as sunrise. The view was 
 limited on the one side by a long line of mountains, fading 
 away in the blue ether in which blended sea and sky enveloped 
 them. The guide directed our eyes to a lofty summit, and 
 said, " France," and pointing to the mountains beyond it, said, 
 " Espagne." Standing among the ruins of an old fort on the 
 promontory of Atalye, we saw the bay, bounded on the right 
 by Cape St. Martin, and on the left by the coast of Spain. 
 
 Biarritz has become a fashionable resort; the hotels are 
 among the finest in France. The Empress Eugenie loved the 
 place, having been in the habit of visiting it when a young girl. 
 Her imperial husband and herself occupied an unpretending 
 brick chateau there, now the only " lion " of the place. I 
 should advise everv American, who is an enthusiastic lover of 
 natural scenery and traveling for pleasure, to visit Biarritz. 
 
lo Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 "I Take my Journey into Spain." 
 
 Entering Spain — Scenes on tlie Frontier — San Sebastian — Protestant Mis- 
 sions — The Infant King — Reminiscences of Lafayette — Burgos— Carthu- 
 sian :kIonastery— Tombs of the Parents of Queen Isabella — The Convent — 
 Legends of the Cid— The Cathedral and Castle. 
 
 Spain! ancient, proud, fiery; pitiless in victory, revengeful 
 in defeat; romantic, fanatical, converting into an opiate recol- 
 lections of past glory; though swept within a few years by gusts 
 of liberal sentiment, still the stronghold of ecclesiastical intol- 
 erance, cruelty, and superstition; home of orators, lovers, and 
 beautiful women; paradise of priests, in strange contrast with 
 a crushed and ignorant peasantry, aristocracy of nobles and 
 beggars! Spain! offspring of Asia, mother of America, twin 
 sister of Africa, gives rise to more problems and sets the fancy 
 more free than any other domain in Europe except Russia. 
 
 These questions and fancies had fermented in my brain for 
 years. Washington Irving planted the germs and William H. 
 Prescott watered them, and when I crossed the frontier Don 
 Quixote stepped forward to meet me. Sancho Panza I found 
 not, for, as a Spaniard of refinement and intelligence m- 
 formed me, the whole people are Don Quixotes, but not more 
 than one or two such practical, sensible, and simple-hearted 
 creatures can be found as the man who' said " Blessings on him 
 who invented sleep." 
 
 We entered the country through the Spanish Basque prov- 
 inces. After leaving Hendaye, we crossed the Bidassoa which 
 separates France and Spain. 
 
 At Irun, the first town in Spain, we were detained two hours 
 for the customhouse inspection. Americans, with their pro- 
 tective tariff, should be the last to find fault with the examina- 
 tions of other countries. 
 
 Our baggage was promptly dispatched, without any disposi- 
 tion on the part of the Spanish ofiicer to annoy us. The time was 
 
"I Take my Journey into Spain." h 
 
 improved by enjoying tiie beautiful scenery, and observing 
 some lay brothers of a monastery, with their sandals and 
 stockingless feet, gray suits, heavy beards, and characteristic 
 Spanish costumes. Caballcros slowly pacing the station in 
 their highly ornamented cloaks, the officers in uniform, and a 
 hundred things besides, showed that we were in a country of 
 peculiar customs and speech. 
 
 San Sebastian, the capital of the province of Guipuzcoa, was 
 the first important place visited. Established at the Hotel 
 de Londres (where they speak little or no English), we called 
 upon the Rev. A\'illiam H. (kilick, who is the son of a missionary 
 and born in the Sandwich Islands. Mrs. Gulick is a daughter 
 of Dr. Gordon, long the treasurer of the American Board. 
 
 The town is built on an isthmus between two bays and is at 
 the foot of Monte Orgullo. The sun being still high, Mr. 
 Gulick proposed a visit to the castle. En route thereto we 
 saw a circular edifice, twenty-five feet in height and several 
 hundred in diameter, large enough to hold three or four 
 thousand persons. It was a bull ring, as important in the es- 
 timation of the people as the cathedral, the theater, or the 
 municipal building. After passing it we began the ascent of 
 the mountain upon which stands the castle La Mota. 
 
 We could see the Spanish and French Pyrenees and old forts 
 at remote points along the horizon; villages dimly visible in 
 ravines, or sparkling in the sunlight upon the hilltops, while 
 before us was the Bay of Biscay. 
 
 As an expositor of the history of the castle and the sieges it 
 has sustained, Mr. Crulick was to standard histories what an 
 eloquent teacher is to text-books. He conducted us to the 
 spot where, in 1813, the British forces, under the Duke of 
 Wellington, assaulted the city, which was garrisoned by three 
 thousand French veterans, under Cxeneral Rey. They suc- 
 ceeded in taking the main works and town, but the French 
 intrenched themselves strongly in the upper citadel, where 
 they remained until August 31, when the English soldiers 
 climbed over the perpendicular wall and forced a surrender. 
 Quebec and Lookout Mountain on this side of the Atlantic 
 furnish analogies. A number of the British officers are buried 
 on the hillside. 
 
12 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The Bay of Biscay is iji the eye of every storm, and the 
 waves as they beat against the rocks rise to a great height. A 
 remarkable phenomenon frequently occurs whereby vessels are 
 saved from wreck. As they are driven in from the sea, just 
 when their condition seems hopeless, the amount of water which 
 has been accumulated in the bay by the wind commences, by the 
 force of gravity, to roll backward, so that they are caught at a 
 point a few miles from shore, beat up and do.wn for days, and 
 often escape otherwise inevitable destruction. 
 
 The evening was occupied in a visit to the schools of the 
 American Board, where we witnessed the calisthenic exercises 
 and met the teachers. Here is a girls' school named the 
 "North American College." Forty handsomer, healthier, 
 more intelligent girls of from ten to sixteen years of age we 
 never saw. No direct effort is made in the school to proselyte 
 Catholic children from their religion, but all are required to 
 participate in the Protestant services. The germs of a full 
 college are here. The teachers are accomplished, one a grad- 
 uate of Mount Holyoke; another, a young Italian lady, a 
 "phenomenal " linguist. 
 
 The next day we drove to Hernani, an ancient and pictur- 
 esque Basque town, in which houses yet stand with the coats 
 of arms undefaced, which were once inhabited by the nobility 
 but are now occupied by the common people. Here may be 
 seen the brave and independent Basques, a remnant of the 
 aboriginal Iberians, who retain their peculiarities of custom and 
 manner, and their language, which they call Euscara. We saw 
 the boys play one of the Basque games, in which a long glove 
 of peculiar shape and materials is used in place of a bat, 
 and the ball is driven forcibly against a wall, being caught 
 on the rebound. 
 
 The country residence of the Queen of Spain, who is much 
 beloved by the citizens of San Sebastian, is situated on the 
 road taken for this drive. The little king was then two years 
 old. The queen regent drives without display, but the king 
 appears in state, with outriders and all the pageantry of royal 
 dignity. San Sebastian is now the most fashionable bathing 
 resort in Spain, much frequented by aristocratic " Madrid- 
 lenians," whose costlv residences adorn the vicinity. 
 
"I Take mv Journey into Spain." 13 
 
 From Hernani we drove to Pasajes, the most curious rock- 
 locked harbor on the coast of Europe. On entering from the 
 sea at high water, the harbor appears more like a lake than 
 a part of the bay. The rocks, barren of earth and grass, give 
 to some extent the effect of art. In this harbor entire fleets 
 have been sheltered. At present it is occupied chiefly by fish- 
 ermen. The peasants were making hempen shoes, and 
 women were congregated about an old, red-faced dame, en- 
 gaged in dissecting the body of that universal friend and fol- 
 lower of mankind — the hog, whose life is crowned by "death 
 for his country." 
 
 Here Lafayette embarked for America to give his name, 
 fame, fortune, and personal services to the country and to 
 "Washington, who said: "It was a noble deed in a noble cause, 
 and a star of hope in the darkest hour." 
 
 The journey of half a day from the frontier of Spain to Bur- 
 gos, the ancient capital of Castile and Leon, revealed a pano- 
 rama of wild mountain scenery and a corresponding triumph 
 of engineering. The road ascends three thousand feet. A 
 hundred mountains were to be tunneled, climbed, or circled. 
 Five, seven, nine, and, in one instance, fourteen tunnels were 
 passed between two stations. Great granite masses, in sharp 
 contrast with brown hills, loftier peaks covered with snow, 
 with the sun set or shining as the eye rested upon one or 
 another summit, made a scene of splendid confusion. 
 
 Long after dark we reached the dimly lighted station of 
 Burgos. Damp was the night; chilling to body and soul the 
 gloom; depressing the mephitic vapors. The Spanish guests 
 in the hotel were happy; they smoked and drank incessantly, 
 and probably smelled nothing but their tobacco and liquors. 
 The city is a thousand years old, and " looks every day of it." 
 The next day was stormy, but having procured a carriage 
 drawn by a pair of powerful mules, we drove two and a half 
 miles along the river Arlanzon to the Cartuja de Miraflores, a 
 monastery of the Carthusian order, built by Queen Isabella as 
 a monument to her parents. As Americans we were quite 
 willing to pay a tribute to her ancestry. 
 
 The sepulcher is a noble specimen of tomb sculpture, oc- 
 tagonal, with lions at the corners, and on the sides are illustra- 
 
14 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 tions from the New Testament. Upon the top, in a recumbent 
 posture, are the statues of Don Juan II and his wife, Isabella 
 of Portugal. In a recess Alphonso, who died in 1470, aged 
 sixteen, and without whose death Isabella never could have 
 been queen, is represented kneeling amid sculptured foliage. 
 
 The monks performed service after having, with many apolo- 
 gies, explained to an English lady that it was against the rules 
 of the order for a woman to be present. We remained, bui 
 envied the woman who was not permitted to stay, for a more 
 melancholy piece of droning never fell upon human ears. 
 
 Emerging from this monastery, where fifteen or twenty 
 monks occupy accommodations originally provided for two 
 hundred, living upon gifts and pay for masses, we drove to 
 the convent of Las Huelgas — "the pleasure ground." It is a 
 nunnery of the Cistercian order, founded seven hundred years- 
 ago by Alfonso VIII to expiate his sins and to please his 
 queen, Eleanor, a daughter of Henry II, of England. Here 
 vaiious kings of Castile were knighted, and many kings and 
 queens are buried. To this day the nuns must belong to the 
 nobility and bring a dowry. We saw seven during the per- 
 formance of the mass. They were in middle life, stout, 
 handsome, tastefully dressed, and in the magnificent carved 
 stalls, presented a tableau vivant more beautiful than most of 
 the works of art which adorn the picture galleries. The ladies 
 who had been forbidden to hear the service by the monks here 
 had their revenge, for the nave, chapter house, and roman- 
 esque nuns' cloister are not accessible to men, though women, 
 duly introduced, are admitted. 
 
 The bones of the Cid (pronounced TJiith by the purists of 
 old Castile), Don Rodrigo Ruy Diaz de Bavar, the most 
 prominent hero of Spanish history, are shown in the town hall. 
 He vanquished the Moors, and was considered the mightiest 
 warrior of Christianity. The Moors gave him the name of the 
 Cid after he had overthrown five kings. The legends told of 
 him are monstrous; among others, that after he died a Jew 
 approached his corpse, saying: "No one dared to touch his 
 body while he was living, I will see what he can do now;" 
 whereupon the dead hand pulled the sword from the scabbard, 
 at which the Jew fainted. 
 
High Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos. 
 
"I Take mv Journey into Spain.' 
 
 17 
 
 The symmetry, beauty, and impressiveness of the Cathedral 
 of Burgos surpass description. Strength and dehcacy are so 
 united that the charm and fragrance of flowers are blended 
 
 I. * 
 
 
 ^'^. 
 M. 
 
 m 
 
 ^'r,^^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^9^aW ' '.^■('1 ' ■ fas. 't^^^'lOrS u L ■^fWlfc ^ *F*T^ 
 
 "s'^ '.ir^'! ''^ Ik ■" '^^"'^''L ' 
 
 
 ^- - 
 
 1 is^^#i^i^^^S3P^ 
 
 Exterior View of the Cross of Cathedral of Burgos. 
 
 with the massiveness of a giant tree. Within it is three hun- 
 dred and fifty feet long; the transept two hundred and fifty in 
 
i8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 width and one hundred and ninety-five in height. The style 
 is Gothic; the side chapels and adjacent rooms are twenty in 
 number, some being as large as ordinary churches; the orna- 
 mentation is diversified and exquisite; the choir contains one 
 hundred and three stalls, carved in walnut; every chapel is 
 filled with paintings, sculptures, ornaments. A mere cata- 
 logue of the statues, windows, arabesques, arches, sculptured 
 tombs of princes and bishops, pilasters, gratin-gs, angels, 
 saints, bas-reliefs, niches, and wonderful works of art without 
 description would require a chapter. 
 
 We ascended the lofty hill to the castle — an ancient fortifi- 
 cation almost in ruins. From the parapets the finest view of 
 the cathedral is obtained. Upon the horizon are convents, 
 monasteries, and other buildings. The more distant prospect, 
 though grand, is desolate. In neither mountain nor hill, valley 
 nor plain can a tree be seen, except along the paths to the 
 convents. Having entered without permission, we were ad- 
 vancing to the highest point of view when a soldier ordered 
 us out of the castle. As we were about passing through the 
 gateway a tall, stern-looking officer appeared. I bowed and 
 said to him, " Americano." He sent a subaltern for his cloak, 
 put it on with dignity, and said, "America Nord?" To 
 which we responded, "New York." " You-would-see-the- 
 castle? " Then with the air of Don Quixote giving an order 
 to Sancho Panza, he waved his hand majestically toward the 
 interior, and we returned, none daring "to molest us, or make 
 us afraid." 
 
The Spanish Capital. 19 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 The Spanish Capital. 
 
 Loqation of the Capital — Climate — Puerta del Sol — Royal Palace — Review of 
 Troops — Picture Gallery — Visit to the Cortes — Spanish Orators and States- 
 men — The Virgin's Sandal — Protestant Missions — Spanish Horsemen. 
 
 Madrid is a city with an independent character, though 
 resembling Paris in several features. It was hardly daylight 
 on a rainy morning when we arrived. The chill, the darkness, 
 and the streets, deserted by all except cabmen and venders of 
 milk and vegetables, were gloomy; but a cup of Spanish 
 chocolate and a French roll made a great difference in the 
 aspect of the city, and while breakfast was preparing the 
 people had begun to swarm like bees from their hives. The 
 crack of countless whips, cries of newsboys, hurrying to and 
 fro of clerks, mingling with a ceaseless procession of donkeys, 
 carts, and coaches, transformed the silent streets into a battle- 
 field of daily life. 
 
 A thousand years ago the now treeless plains about Madrid 
 were covered with forests. Like the people of the United 
 States, the inhabitants improvidently cut them down, to the 
 injury of the climate and of the healthfulness of the region. 
 The river on which the city is situated is dry except during 
 short intervals, and the annual fall of rain is but about ten 
 inches. Madrid rests on the roof of several hills, about 
 twenty-five hundred feet above the sea level, and was selected 
 as the capital because in the very center of Spain. From the 
 streets was a magnificent prospect of the Sierra Guadarrama, 
 and of the mountains of Toledo; the former were snow-clad 
 from their summits two thirds of the way down to the plateau. 
 
 The climate of ^Madrid is reputed the worst in Europe, and 
 I can readily believe it. We experienced clear, cloudy, and 
 rainy days, and each was intensely disagreeable. Pneumonias, 
 spoken of as pulmonics by the people, are common and ex- 
 ceedinglv fatal. 
 
20 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Most of the houses are high, and are occupied in apartments 
 or flats. Some of the streets and certain squares and prome- 
 nades are handsome. The Puerta del Sol, enthusiastically 
 praised by travelers, requires sunlight and a crowd to appear 
 at its best. At 4 p. m. on a bright day it is impossible to 
 conceive anything more animated; neither London nor New 
 York can exhibit such brightness of aspect, such hastening 
 but not hurrying crowds, such sparkling conversation, so con- 
 stant an interchange of civilities. All the lines of street rail- 
 ways meet there; every business place of importance is in the 
 vicinity, the large hotels, and some of the leading public 
 buildings. 
 
 The grand square is the Plaza Major. In the center is an 
 equestrian statue of Philip III. The mob pulled it down in 
 1873, when the red Republic reigned, but it has been replaced. 
 Charles I, of England, went down to Madrid to see a bullfight 
 given in his honor by Philip III, and it took place in this 
 square; but while such displays may only make it contempt- 
 ible, the autos-da-fe celebrated there render it infamous. 
 
 El Prado at fashionable hours enables its visitors to see the 
 largest number. Spaniards always seem to be the gayest of 
 European peoples on such occasions. 
 
 The royal palace is a truly royal residence, but stands in 
 such an exposed place that in winter the sentinels are often 
 nearly frozen. We paid particular attention to the royal 
 chapel, a splendid room, wonderfully decorated, and contain- 
 ing a valuable collection of ecclesiastical objects. In the 
 library are many historical manuscripts and a prayer book said 
 to have belonged to Ferdinand and Isabella. 
 
 At the window of the Hall of Ambassadors we saw the little 
 king, a happy-looking child. Whether the monarchy will fall 
 before he comes of age and ascends the throne; whether he 
 will ascend it and be dethroned as was his grandmother, the 
 still living ex-queen Isabella; whether he will be assassinated, 
 or have a "long and peaceful reign," the wisest statesman can 
 forecast no more clearly than this boy. 
 
 As we were leaving the palace the review of the regiment 
 vvhich was that day to be stationed there took place. The 
 average height of the soldiers was apparently not more than 
 

 N 
 P 
 
 o' 
 
The Spanish Capital. 23 
 
 five feet seven inches; the officers were taller; the uniform was 
 new and gay; the bearing graceful and erect, though they did 
 not keep step with the accuracy which we have seen in other 
 lands. The music to which they marched was peculiarly 
 melodious and rhythmical. 
 
 The royal picture gallery, the Museo, is the one institution 
 of Madrid whose contents successfully challenge competition. 
 Among the Italian masters, Correggio, Bassanno, Titian, and 
 Raphael are represented; Titian by twenty of his works, and 
 Raphael by a considerable number. The Dutch, French, 
 and Cierman, and also the Flemish schools are illustrated by 
 their best names. We recognized the familiar work of Philip 
 AVouverman, in all of whose paintings the white horse appears. 
 In St. Petersburg I saw two of his pictures, considered as curi- 
 osities because without that symbolic animal. But it is in the 
 Spanish school that this collection, containing many of the 
 masterpieces of Murillo, Velasquez, and Alonzo Cano, sur- 
 passes the other galleries of Europe. 
 
 "We spent a considerable portion of a day there, and of the 
 Spanish pictures those that left the deepest impression upon 
 my eye and memory are: "An auto-da-fe, celebrated in the 
 Plaza Major of Madrid, June 30, 1680." The king, with his 
 wife and mother, looks from a balcony; victims are led before 
 him to hear their sentences; a friar is preaching to those to 
 be burned, and the grandees of Spain are spectators; in the 
 foreground are the asses on which the doomed are taken to 
 the place of execution. The other is the figure of ^sop, which 
 some say "looks more like a shirtless cobbler than a philos- 
 opher;" a superficial remark, for some shirtless cobblers have 
 been philosophers, notably Samuel Drew, the metaphysician. 
 Cobblers in all ages have furnished original and learned men, 
 noted as fine conversers as well as clear thinkers, and they 
 have often been concerned in revolutions. 
 
 On ordinary occasions order in the streets of Madrid is 
 noticeably good. The police force is large, well organized, 
 and supplemented by various officials who add dignity and 
 force to the public exhibition of authority. Drunkenness is 
 comparatively rare, and no cases of gross intemperance are 
 seen during the day. But the capital is liable to outbreaks 
 
24 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 difficult to be suppressed without bloodshed, which the memory 
 of recent revolutions should make very unpopular. 
 
 The then recent ministerial crisis, regarded with interest 
 throughout the civilized world, was attributed chiefly to the 
 violent demonstrations against Senor Canovas on his return to 
 Madrid from the south a short time before, the charge being 
 made that the Liberal government promoted the manifesta- 
 tions to make impossible the return of the Conservatives to 
 power, and to impress the queen with the impolicy of exhibit- 
 ing sympathy with them. The crisis was announced three 
 days before we reached Madrid. All meetings of the Cortes 
 were suspended. It seemed improbable that I should have 
 the opportunity of looking upon a body famed throughout the 
 world for Ciceronian eloquence and outbursts of personal and 
 partisan feeling. 
 
 E. H. Strobel, Esq., Charge d'Affaires, and then acting 
 minister of the United States, courteously gave me the use 
 of the only seat at his disposal in the Tribune Diploma- 
 tique, and promised to keep me advised of the time when the 
 crisis should be resolved, and a new ministry appointed. 
 
 In Spain a ministerial crisis is not brought about merely by 
 the defeat of the government in the House of Deputies or 
 Commons, but occurs when any considerable number of the 
 ministry resign, or on account of public disapprobation, per- 
 sonal incompatibility, or for other reasons, it is necessary to 
 make serious changes. At an early hour on Tuesday morning 
 information came that at midnight a new ministry had been 
 formed. This meant that at the regular hour that afternoon 
 the Cortes would reassemble. 
 
 Theoretically, the government of Spain is a limited mon- 
 archy. The legislative power is in the sovereign and the 
 Cortes, which consists of a Senate and a House of Represent- 
 atives. The Senado meets in an edifice unworthy of its 
 dignity. The Congresso de los Disputandas (House of Com- 
 mons, Deputies, or Representatives) convenes in a building 
 which dates from 1842, and was eight years in construction. 
 It is handsomely furnished and adorned with fine pictures by 
 noted artists. We had passed it on several occasions, and 
 spent some time in studying the bronze statue of Miguel de 
 
The Spanish Capital. 25 
 
 Cervantes. The greatest writer of Spain, and one of the 
 greatest of all lands, wears the old Spanish costume, "and 
 hides under his cloak the arm mutilated at Lepanto, which he 
 never did in life, it being the pride of his existence." The 
 adventures of Don Quixote are displayed in relief upon the 
 pedestal. 
 
 At three o'clock I took the seat specified in my credentials. 
 By my side sat the Russian minister, a son of Prince Gort- 
 chakof, ministers from Portugal and Germany, and a repre- 
 sentative of the United States of Colombia. Every seat of 
 the Tribuna Publica was filled, and hundreds were standing. 
 The Tribuna Reservada was crowded. The seats of the 
 deputies were empty. After we had sat for about forty 
 minutes, officers in uniform entered, took places upon the 
 platform, and a hush of expectancy fell upon the assembly. 
 Marcos, President of the Chamber of Deputies, a distinguished 
 man, of florid face, sandy whiskers, and short and sturdy in 
 figure, took the chair. The ministers entered and seated 
 themselves upon the bench named El banco aziil, covered with 
 blue silk. 
 
 The deputies then filled the building, and the floor was in- 
 stantly crowded by senators, ex-ministers, and deputies, and 
 others admitted to the privileges of the House. Several of 
 the ministers were of imposing appearance, clad in brilliant 
 military uniform. Three only of eight or nine were attired as 
 civilians. The deputies were elegantly dressed; many smoked 
 incessantly and held canes. Senator Moret, estimated inferior 
 only to Castelar as an orator, and distinguished as a man of 
 letters and a diplomat, had been superseded. Several of the 
 ministry had been changed from one department to another, 
 and others, new in the government, introduced. 
 
 A long address from Senor Sagasta, the prime minister, 
 opened the business. I looked with interest upon him, re- 
 membering when he was condemned to death, and compelled 
 to flee to England, whence he returned after the Revolution to 
 assume the position of Minister of the Interior. He set forth 
 the causes of the crisis, and congratulated the House on the 
 formation of a ministry. As a speaker, he was plain, forcible, 
 epigrammatic, courteous. Don Francisco Silvela, second in 
 
26 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 position and repute as an orator among the Conservatives, re- 
 plied. His style was rhythmical, highly rhetorical, occasion- 
 ally epigrammatic. He essayed to show that the government 
 was responsible for, or at least indifferent to, the outrages 
 perpetrated upon himself and Senor Canovas in the streets of 
 Madrid a few weeks previously. Sagasta answered at length, 
 minifying the disturbance, and declaring that the government 
 had no intimation of it, and did its best to suppress it; he play- 
 fully insinuated that the Conservatives must not be too sensi- 
 tive; they had had much approbation elsewhere, and should 
 bear rebuffs more patiently. While he was speaking Canovas 
 rose and said: "I will take the word." He is an orator of the 
 highest grade, erect, graceful, self-poised, and roused the 
 House to shouts of applause and murmurs of disapprobation. 
 Castelar showed marked interest, but did not speak. Bald- 
 headed, good-humored, he belongs to the class of men who do 
 not exhibit in repose the elements of greatness. It was mid- 
 night when the session closed. 
 
 In one of the most popular chapels in Madrid, I purchased 
 of a Roman Catholic priest the exact measurement of the 
 Virgin's sandal, a facsimile of which is herewith printed. 
 
 In the center, in Spanish, is the statement that the original 
 is preserved in a monastery in Spain, and an account of the 
 benefits to be derived from the measurement. Of this state- 
 ment a literal translation is herewith given : 
 
 "Long live the holiest Mary, mother of God. This is the 
 true measure of the sandal of the holiest Virgin, which is pre- 
 served with great veneration in a convent of Spain. The 
 Pope John XXII granted three hundred years of indulgence 
 to all who kiss three times this measure and pray three Ave 
 Marias. 
 
 "This indulgence confirmed Clemens VIII, in the year 1603, 
 and it can be gained as often as you wish for the blessed 
 works of the Purgatory and for the greater glory of the Queen 
 of the Angels. 
 
 "It is permitted to take from this measure others, and all 
 shall have the same indulgences. 
 
 " Mary, Mother of Grace, pray for us." 
 
 "It is sold in the Chapel of Our Lady of the Solitude. 
 
'ICiSta es verclaclcra Miedl 
 da de la sandalla de Sa, 
 rsAwirgeii. SaaiUsliM©, qne, ^ 
 %n€^ coKScrva e€>ia gran^ 
 ;\vcueraeioii esi asi Mq- 
 uausteHo de Cspaua. 
 
 El Papa Juan XXII concediol^ 
 U IreScienlcs aOos de indulgen- iM^ 
 k^^ciafe a todos, besando Ires ve- 
 ^v'lces esla raedida , y rezacdol^l 
 ' p3t tres Ave Marias 5^ 
 
 ^j Dicha mdulg«incia confirm6 \^ 
 ^i Clemente Via ei\ el ano 1603, 
 ;^J y se piiede ganarcuantasrvece* 
 /^/ se quiera por las bendUas almas \^ 
 jw' ^^^ Purgatorio, y para mayor glo- 
 fS/ria do la lteli& de los Ajifieles- 
 
 iWl ^^ permite sacuc de ester. mdida%^ 
 l^Motras, y todas tendldn.lasmimasin-^ 
 1^ dw/^ncias. 
 
 3 OfiA EKO.^OHfi/ 
 
28 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Pigeon Street, for her worship. Madrid, 1883. Published bj' 
 Aguado; Pontejos, 8." 
 
 Desiring to see where the few Protestants in Madrid wor- 
 shiped, we went one Sabbath morning to the mission of the 
 United Presbyterian Church, over which the Rev. John 
 Jameson, of Scotland, has presided for nearly twenty years. 
 Presbyterianism finds it expedient to adopt in Spain quite an 
 extended liturgy, but its traditional "long prayer " was not 
 omitted. The congregation numbered one hundred and 
 seventy-five. The choir was composed of fifty children, who 
 furnished a volume of melody almost sufficient to drown the 
 organ, but did not prevent us from hearing the peculiar pen- 
 etrating voice of an assistant who kept the children in concert 
 to an unusual degree. 
 
 After the opening services this assistant, Don Cipriano Tor- 
 nos, ascended the pulpit and preached. He had been a Cath- 
 olic priest of such distinction as to rise to the position of 
 preacher at the Spanish court; was hardly excelled in popu- 
 larity by any priest in Madrid ; but fifteen years before, with 
 no charge against him and with every desired preferment within 
 reach, he left the Roman Church, affiliated with the Presby- 
 terian, and ever since has faithfully performed his duty as as- 
 sistant minister. Like Luther, he married; and his Roman 
 Catholic opponents have not been slow to allege the purpose 
 to do so as the reason of his withdrawal. 
 
 There is in Madrid a Lutheran minister, the Rev. Fritz 
 Fliedner, the son of the founder of the now renowned " Kaisers- 
 werth." He works upon a " providential " plan, starting in- 
 stitutions, schools, orphanages, homes for governesses, incipient 
 hospitals and missions, and conducting them undenomination- 
 ally. Two or three committees in Germany, and some English 
 congregations, raise funds for him, and from various parts of 
 the world money is sent. He publishes books and tracts in 
 Spanish, conducts a service in that language, and preaches to 
 a small congregation of Germans. I visited his schools in 
 Madrid and elsewhere; they are numerously attended, and he 
 contrives to make the parents of the children, and the friends 
 of orphans wherever they have any, pay something toward their 
 education. 
 
The Spanish Capital. 29 
 
 The Wesleyans have a mission, but, owing to a feud and se- 
 cession, it was not prosperous. 
 
 Madrid has not so many centers of tragic interest as Paris, 
 but we saw a church on whose steps a bishop two or three 
 years before was killed by a priest, said to be insane, and the 
 corner of the street where General Prim was assassinated, De- 
 cember 27, 1870. The holes in the wall made by the discharge 
 of the gun may still be seen. The street where Cervantes lived 
 is named for him, and the house, supposed to be the one occu- 
 pied by him, has his profile over the door. 
 
 The Spaniards are magnificent horsemen, and a greater num- 
 ber of elegant equipages, accomplished riders, and spirited an- 
 imals, the Route en Roi in London and the Bois du Boulogne 
 in Paris seldom exhibit. The few sunny days during our 
 sojourn brought the whole population out of doors. 
 
 Madrid wears the aspect of a prosperous city. Its dullness 
 is gone, and, with the restoration of trees in the suburbs now 
 going forward on a large scale, even its climate is improving, 
 so that it may yet vindicate the wisdom of its arbitrary selec- 
 tion as the site of the capital. 
 
30 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 The Escorial, Toledo, and Cordova. 
 
 Situation of the Escorial — Character of Philip — Interior of the Escorial— 
 Description of Toledo-^Its Cathedral — Picturesque Gates — Ruined Walls 
 — Ancient Churches — The Alcazar — Journey to Cordova — Cathedral and 
 Great Mosque. 
 
 I HAVE been in many hospitals, barracks, asylums, and 
 prisons, but the gloomiest work of man on which my eyes 
 
 ever rested is the 
 Escorial. It is 
 grand, but it is 
 the grandeur of 
 darkness, despo- 
 tism, and death. 
 Philip, " less a 
 warrior than a 
 monk, and less a 
 monk than an in- 
 quisitor," built it 
 as a tomb for his 
 father, himself, 
 and his succes- 
 sors, and as a 
 monument to San 
 Lorenzo, on whose 
 day, August lo, 
 1557, the battle 
 of St. Quentin was 
 fought and won, 
 as Philip believed, 
 through his inter- 
 cession. AVhile in- 
 tended for a burial 
 place, it was also 
 a monastery, an 
 
 ^:\ 
 
 V! 
 
 
 
 Street of St. Thomas in Toledo. 
 
a 
 
 m 
 
 o 
 o 
 
The Escorial, Toledo, axd Cordova. 33 
 
 asylum, and a palace. For two years he searched for a spot, and 
 finally selected as wild and secluded a region as Spain could 
 afford. One must pass beyond the arctip circle to witness 
 barer, browner, more inhospitable prospects. Upon the lofty 
 slope of the Guadarrama Mountains he erected this structure, 
 more than one eighth of a mile long, and nearly as wide. It 
 is built of granite, and dividing the surface into paths wide 
 enough for the step of a man, one could walk thirty-tw'O 
 leagues without going over the same ground twice. Though 
 the mountains behind it are hitrh and stern, this building is 
 not dwarfed by the surroundings. The Spaniards call it the 
 eighth wonder of the world. The chapels and altars are filled 
 with paintings by the finest artists, and the high altar is com- 
 posed of precious marbles and inlaid jasper. The library con- 
 tains magnificently bound and illuminated volumes, ranged 
 upon the shelves with their edges outward, instead of the 
 backs, as is usually the case. The colors of the tapestry rival 
 in delicacy, richness, and vividness the richest paintings upon 
 canvas. 
 
 The character of the founder — severe, melancholy, and mor- 
 bid — is .stamped upon every part of the structure, where his 
 successors of a different temperament have not given it a more 
 human appearance. During the fourteen years that Philip 
 lived there he did all in his power to transform himself into a 
 monk, and sat with the priests as they sang in the choir, find- 
 ing his way through a secret door to a certain corner. The 
 room in which he died was so situated as to give him a con- 
 stant view of the high altar. 
 
 The first impression is oppressive. The visitor unconsciously 
 looks about to see if there is a way of escape, and almost 
 fancies that he hears keys turning in rusty locks behind him. 
 ]\Ionks and beggars flit across the scene and disappear through 
 the passages, or are lost in the prodigious expanse of the main 
 edifice. But after a while this passes away and the visitor 
 becomes cool, then stolid. Only professional guides and 
 architects or worshipers are likely to go there twice. 
 
 The Pantheon, underneath the high altar, is indeed a worthy 
 sepulcher for kings. From the church, by successive, flights 
 of polished marble steps, the visitor descends until he finds 
 
34 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 himself in an octagonal room, nearly forty feet in diameter 
 and but little less in height, formed entirely of marble and 
 jasper, and relieved by gilt bronze ornaments. 
 
 The body of Alfonso XII, who died December 2, 1885, 
 lay in a side room subjected to the action of a stream of 
 water, by which the perishable parts were gradually removed. 
 The urn prepared to receive it when this process should have 
 been completed, was exhibited. In an apartment called el Pan- 
 tco/i lie los Infantes are the bones of the princes and queens of 
 Spain Avhose sons did «^/ reign, except the late Queen Mercedes. 
 The marble caskets are beautiful and some of the inscriptions 
 touching; but the whole is in unpleasant contrast with the 
 general character of the building, and in many instances the 
 decorations are gaud}'. 
 
 Whenever we spoke to ti-avelers or residents concerning 
 cathedrals already visited, the usual reply was, "Wait till you 
 reach Toledo." 
 
 The city of Toledo, sixty miles from Madrid, is the residence 
 of an archbishop whose jurisdiction includes Madrid, Cordova, 
 and seven other bishoprics. To-day its population amounts 
 to less than eighteen thousand ; once it had two hundred 
 thousand. Goth, Jew, ]\Ioor, and Spaniard have lavished 
 wealth, art, and labor upon it. As we approached, the cit}' 
 towering on an almost perpendicular rock, appeared like a com- 
 plete fortification for the defense of the plain and of the river 
 Tagus. 
 
 The people of Toledo are proud of their history and of their 
 Spanish, said to be the purest now spoken, and honored by 
 Alfonso X in a law providing that, in cases of doubt, the 
 Toledan definition and pronunciation of words shall prevail. 
 The streets are so crooked that there is no wa}' for the stranger 
 to avoid being lost except to commit to memory the signs on 
 places of business. 
 
 The Alcazar, a beautiful edifice, has been destroyed several 
 times; once by the French, and, finally, only two years ago, 
 by an accidental fire. Little remains but bare walls, yet they 
 are sufficient to show what a noble structure it must have 
 been. 
 
 Wherever one wanders a surprise awaits him. Styles of 
 
The Escorial, Toledo, and Cordova. 35 
 
 various ages and peoples are illustrated in the buildings. The 
 Moors have left their impress upon ever}' part. The character 
 of the sites makes even ordinary buildings striking as they rise 
 like terraces. Interesting anecdotes abound of the different 
 epochs in Toledo's long history. A student could spend 
 years allowing his own inquiries to guide him, and before ex- 
 hausting the subject would become acquainted with the history 
 of Europe during the entire Christian era. 
 
 No one can with certainty say when the cathedral was 
 founded; the jNIoors transformed it into a mosque, and when 
 the}' were conquered it was guaranteed to them by Alfonzo VI, 
 but the promise was not fulfilled; the structure was burned in 
 1226, and a new one erected upon the site, finished in the year 
 Columbus discovered America. 
 
 The names of one hundred and forty-nine eminent artists 
 are given who for six centuries were employed to decorate it. 
 We entered through cloisters, and were- conducted slowly 
 through the various chapels and to all the best view-points. 
 Here there is nothing oppressive; all is chaste and beautiful. 
 One might sit a half day content to gaze upon the scene with- 
 out the slightest attention to details, losing vision in the lofty 
 height or the dark expanse. The chapels are epitomes of 
 history and museums of art. There is a unique image in 
 silver, three hundred and fifty years old, ten thousand nine 
 hundred ounces in weight, and the cross on the pinnacle is made 
 of the first gold brought by Columbus to Europe. Street, in 
 his Gothic Architecture in Spain, says that this cathedral "is 
 not inferior in design to any of the great French cathedrals, 
 while it far surpasses them in rich furniture, picturesque 
 effect, and artistic objects of every kind." The wonderful 
 mosaics, the volume of sound produced b}' the organ and the 
 voices of fifty priests, and the performance in a side chapel of 
 an ancient ritual, were among the things that pleased us. 
 
 Spanish cathedrals have a peculiarity which diminishes their 
 internal effect. The choir is placed in the center of the edi- 
 fice. The acoustics are by this improved, but the perspective 
 is divided. 
 
 Our guide through this building we had taken from Madrid, 
 a courier employed for the time that we were in its vicinity, 
 
36 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 a Hebrew of superior intelligence and a romancer. One of 
 the officials ordered me to take off a cap worn to prevent 
 taking cold in the chilly building. The courier made a few 
 remarks which led not only to his withdrawing the com- 
 mand, but treating me with such unusual courtesy and rev- 
 erence that I asked the courier what was the meaning of the 
 sudden change in manner. " I told him," said he, " that you 
 were a bishop of the holy Roman Church, whose health had 
 failed, and who on account of important services in mission 
 fields had received a dispensation to wear a cap and a beard." 
 I had neither suggested nor authorized the fiction, but enjoyed 
 its benefits. 
 
 Besides the cathedral, its chief charm, Toledo has other at- 
 tractions; the gates, so picturesque, the ruined walls, the 
 castle, and the bridges; churches that were formerly mosques, 
 and others that were synagogues. One originally a synagogue, 
 was erected in the twelfth century, converted into a church, 
 then transformed into an asylum for penitent women of pre- 
 viously abandoned life, then resumed its place as a church, and 
 was so retained until 1791, when it was used as a barrack; 
 next it became a military store, and finally a dancing hall. It 
 is now in process of restoration. 
 
 We visited the manufactory of cutlery, and procured speci- 
 mens of the famous Toledo blade. The cadets of the Alcazar, 
 set free from daily tasks, were lunching, lounging, arguing, and 
 joking in the courtyard. 
 
 From Madrid to Cordova is two hundred and seventy-six 
 miles. The railway passes through the Campos de la IMancha, 
 and within six miles of the place where Cervantes wrote Don 
 Quixote^ in which may be found an accurate description of those 
 cheerless wastes, on which windmills still stand. The prison 
 in which the author wrote his work is now a printing office, 
 and one of the best Spanish editions of Don Quixote has re- 
 cently been printed in that building. 
 
 Cordova was probably of Carthaginian origin, founded about 
 206 B. C. , and is the site of the first Roman colony in Spain, 
 becoming the capital of ' ' Ulterior Spain. " During the Roman 
 domination many eminent men, among them Seneca and Lucan, 
 were born there. It was captured by the Goths in 527, and one 
 
Cathedral of Toledo. 
 
The Escorial, Toledo, and Cordova. 39 
 
 hundred years afterward by the Moors. The Arabian empire, 
 which had become the most aggressive in the world, estab- 
 lished at Cordova the Western CaHphate, rivaling in splendor, 
 learning, and wealth those of Bagdad and Cairo. From 1236, 
 when the Catholics regained the city, it declined, until now it 
 has little or nothing to exhibit but the remains of the Arabian 
 dynasty, consisting chiefly of the bridge, the Moorish towers, 
 and the cathedral, formerly a mosque. 
 
 Probably the cathedral gives a better idea of the grandeur 
 of the ecclesiastical edifices erected by the Mohammedans than 
 any other in Europe. The design is more simple than that of 
 the cathedral at Toledo. When the Arabs entered Cordova 
 in 701, they converted half the Christian cathedral into a 
 mosque. Seventy years later Abd-er-Rahman I. determined to 
 build a temple which should compete with the East, and 
 bought of the Christians the part of the temple which up to 
 that time they had occupied. The new mosque was begun in 
 786 on the site of the old Christian church where formerly had 
 stood a temple devoted to Janus. The object of the caliph 
 was to save the people from the customary pilgrimages to the 
 tomb of Mohammed in Mecca. It ranked among the Moham- 
 medan mosques as third in sanctity. The entire area is six 
 hundred and forty-two feet long, by four hundred and sixty- 
 two wide; the walls are from thirty to sixty feet high and six 
 feet thick, and the roof is thirty-five feet high. One's 
 chief sensation on beholding is astonishment. Twelve hun- 
 dred pillars originally supported the roof, each a solid block of 
 marble, brought with their capitals from the dift'erent countries 
 over which the Saracens were then rulers. Here are every 
 conceivable hue and kind of stones: pink and white marbles; 
 dark brown, black streaked with white, pale yellow jasper; 
 blood red, green, and different colors of porphyry. About 
 nine hundred and twenty columns remain, the rows appearing 
 perfect in whatever direction one looks. 
 
 The pavement of the holy place is of white marble, and the 
 shell-shaped roof is of one block. The mosaics surpass any in 
 the world. When the mosque was illuminated for great festiv- 
 ities, 10,805 lights were used. 
 
 We saw the spot where the constant procession of the faith- 
 
40 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 ful, on their knees, had worn away the marble — " worn as 
 though the cold pavement were a sod." A few years ago 
 Muley Abbas, an uncle of the present Emperor of Morocco, 
 went through this mosque, passing seven times around it on 
 his knees, sighing and praying, and then wept loudly, sobbing 
 like a child, because "all this splendor had been the work of 
 his ancestors. They had raised this wonder, and now the de- 
 generate Moors could not even read the Arabic inscriptions." 
 
 When the Christians took formal possession they began the 
 work of erecting side chapels, and continued it for two 
 hundred years. Finally, against the protest of the city cor- 
 poration, a bishop built a church in the midst of the mosque. 
 Charles V upheld the bishop, but when he visited Cordova in 
 1526 he reproved the chapter: " You have built here what you 
 or anyone might have built anywhere else; but you have de- 
 stroyed what was unique in the world." The mosque is al- 
 most as vast as the Escorial; but it is massive without sever- 
 ity, original without monstrosity, elegant in its curves and 
 profiles, aiid instead of making the impression of a huge stone 
 quarry, it is obviously a happy combination of gems from 
 many sources. 
 
 " What must it have been when its roof was higher and glis- 
 tening with gilding and vivid colors, and thousands of gold 
 and silver lamps; when its walls were worked like lace, and 
 looked like cashmere shawls illuminated from behind? " 
 
 What must Cordova have been when it was the center of 
 riches and of the highest civilization of thfe age, with its uni- 
 versity, its population of a million, its three hundred mosques, 
 nine hundred baths, and six hundred hotels? 
 
 The Court of Oranges, with its palms, cypresses, and orange 
 trees, and its colonnades of marble pillars, is a mixture of 
 Spanish and Moorish scenes. An interesting relic is a Roman 
 military column found in 1532, which shows the distance 
 from that point to Cadiz, one hundred and fourteen miles. At 
 the town gate, near the bridge, is an ugly monument in honor 
 of Raphael, the tutelar saint, erected one hundred and fifty 
 years ago, commemorating the alleged miraculous apparition 
 of St. Raphael for the salvation of the city. 
 
< 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 P 
 
 S- 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 < 
 
 p 
 
Proud Seville." 43 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 "Proud Seville." 
 
 General Description of Seville — Tobacco and Porcelain Factories — The Hos- 
 pital — Picture Galleiy — The Colombina Library — The Cathedral — Tomb 
 of the Son of Columbus. 
 
 From cold and gloomy Burgos, bustling, windy, and modern 
 Madrid, languishing, diminished, and dilapidated Cordova, to 
 sunny Seville, is a delightful transition ; for this is the land of 
 orange groves, of grass ever green, of bare heads and bare 
 feet, of singing birds, and children playing in the street. The 
 rains are frequent and heavy, but not cold. Tables are laden 
 with vegetables, and for once heavv meats fill a subordinate 
 place. If the inhabitants but knew how to cook their fruits 
 and vegetables, this would be a gastronomical paradise. The 
 very beggars of Seville have a character of their own. One 
 sees in them the airs of decayed aristocracy, the indolence of 
 an Asiatic, and the contentment without the surly ferocity of 
 the American tramp. Here the bullfighters, guitar - players, 
 singers, Sabbath-breakers, intriguers, have unrestricted license. 
 The sterner aspect of the Spaniards of the north gives place to 
 an almost French affability and politeness. 
 
 The Phoenicians brought their commerce and paganism to 
 this part of Spain, and gave it a name signifying a plain, and 
 the historians trace the name through four or five changes: 
 Phoenician, Sephela; Greek, Ispola; Roman, Ispolis; Moor- 
 ish, Ishbiliah; and finally, Sevilla. Caesar conquered it 45 
 B. C. The Vandals made it a capital, and so the Goths kept it 
 till the advent of the Moors, nearly six hundred and fifty years 
 ago. When it was surrendered to the Christians, almost the 
 whole population, consisting of four hundred thousand Moors, 
 Jews, and Arabs, fled. 
 
 The government of Spain has a monopoly of the manufac- 
 ture of tobacco, and of modern things the most extraordinary 
 and monstrous is the tobacco factory. Hideous, yet fascinat- 
 
44 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 ing, is the interior of the building, a tenth of a mile square, in 
 which five thousand women and girls manufacture ten thou- 
 sand pounds of cigars per day. Every room is filthy, and the 
 stenches so pungent that it is a common occurrence for visitors 
 to be taken ill and compelled to retire. 
 
 The tales of the beauty of the women are false, and de- 
 nounced by most standard books. A few are of more than or- 
 dinary comeliness, but even those are of the cigar-box-picture 
 type of beauty. The majority are brazen in expression and 
 disgusting in conduct. They eat and smoke as they work, 
 chatter like magpies, and beg of the visitor. Through the 
 building are scattered wretched infants in cradles, or strapped 
 to their mothers while they are at work. 
 
 In the porcelain factory we followed from the beginning to 
 the end the process of making fine goods. Stripers on the 
 cheap quality give place to those who paint little pictures, and 
 these, in turn, to real artists, who decorate the fine specimens of 
 china. Many women of a much higher grade than those in the 
 tobacco factory and of correspondingly better behavior, are 
 engaged in this employment. 
 
 The great hospital under the control of the Roman Catholic 
 Church is a neat, comfortable, and well-managed institution. 
 We visited every department, finding it an honor to its man- 
 agers; the floors, bedding, and furniture scrupulously clean, 
 and the atmosphere pure. Everything being made of stone 
 gives to one unaccustomed to it an impression of severity 
 and coldness; but in that climate it is comfortable. The 
 sisters were attentively caring for the sick, presenting to visi- 
 tors a view of this form of Roman Catholic activity at its best. 
 One department had over it a sign, Hombres Dementes; and 
 among the pauper lunatics and those of obscure birth we saw 
 a scion of one of the wealthiest families in southern Spain, 
 whose manners indicated his delusion — pride, the national 
 characteristic, exaggerated. 
 
 The squares and streets of Seville are pleasing. The estate 
 of the Duke of Montpensier, son of Louis Phillippe, of France, 
 is one of the most elaborate private establishments in Spain. 
 On the one side is the river, and on the other are the botanical 
 gardens and the principal promenade of the city. The duke's 
 
" Proud Seville/' 4.5 
 
 garden is nearly two miles in circumference, and is largely de- 
 voted to oranges. Sometimes the harvest, grown in the center 
 of the city, not in the form of a grove, but interspersed with 
 all other kinds of subtropical fruits and trees, nets him ten 
 thousand dollars annually. Beautiful as his mansion is he 
 does not wish to live there, and spends most of his time in 
 Paris, for the reason that in that building he has been bereaved 
 of five daughters. 
 
 The picture gallery of Seville is small but fine; probably the 
 best place in which to study Murillos. Here can be seen the 
 large "Conception," and his favorite picture, "St. Thomas 
 Giving Alms." The only painting upon wood he ever made is 
 here. I viewed more than twenty-five of Murillo's most cele- 
 brated works, and in some felt the power of art; others might 
 have been substituted by any of ten thousand paintings, and I 
 could not have perceived that injustice had been done to the 
 collection. Having procured an analytical criticism by a high 
 authority, it was a satisfaction to discover that three of those 
 which impressed me were highly commended, and a perplexity 
 to find that some of those which I had thought of little account 
 were classed among his best. One which, if offered to me in a 
 store for a few dollars, I would have refused, is estimated as 
 worth many thousands, ^^'hile in the depths of humility after 
 this discovery I stumbled upon the writings of another critic 
 Avho considered the picture utterly unworthy of Murillo, and 
 of doubtful authenticity! 
 
 Turning from the picture gallery to the Biblioteca Colom- 
 bina, we were plunged into the antiquities of our own country; 
 for this library was founded by the bequest of Fernando Colon, 
 a son of Christopher Columbus. He was a wide traveler, a 
 brave soldier, and a scholar; and accompanied his father and 
 uncles several times to America. At his death he bequeathed 
 his library of twenty thousand volumes to the chapter. " Neg- 
 lect and insects" have reduced the books derived from him to 
 one half the original number. The titles of several incited 
 curiosity to read them. One, published twelve years before 
 Columbus discovered America, contains all the information 
 possessed by Ptolemy, Aristotle, Pliny, and others, on the form 
 of the world. Christopher Columbus copied it all out with his 
 4 
 
46 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 own hand, and added notes. Most curious is a tract written 
 by Columbus to satisfy the Inquisition, in which he undertakes 
 to show that his discovery of America is predicted in the Scrip- 
 tures! I lingered long in this room. 
 
 Of course we went to Murillo's house, and to the place 
 where he died. The street in which he was born now bears 
 his name. He was buried under a church, but when the 
 building was destroyed by the French under Marshal Soult, 
 his bones were scattered. All they can exhibit is a facsimile 
 of the slab formerly on his tomb. 
 
 The Cathedral of Seville is classed with those of Burgos and 
 Toledo as the finest in Spain, and is the largest church in 
 Europe except St. Peter's in Rome. It was resolved by the 
 corporation, preliminary to its erection, "to construct a 
 church such and so good that it should never have its equal." 
 The edifice had met with a calamitv a short time before our 
 visit. A large portion of the ceiling in the center fell, dama- 
 ging the decorations, and destroying some of the best. The air 
 was filled with dust and noise of workmen, and much of 
 the space was taken up by scaffolding. On entering, the im- 
 pression was that of solemn grandeur. With its brilliant win- 
 dows; noble choir, placed in the center according to the cus- 
 tom in Spain; vast organs, transepts, alabaster shrines, silver 
 candlesticks twenty-five feet high, many chapels, each rivaling 
 the others in splendor of decorations, and treasures of art, huge 
 silver altars, relics of antiquity, lofty nave, and still higher dome 
 between the transepts, and the whole Gospel history painted 
 upon the high altar in forty-four compartments, it fulfills the 
 vast designs and exhibits the munificence of its projectors. 
 
 The tomb of Fernando, son of Columbus, is in this cathe- 
 dral. ]Murillo's celebrated painting of St. Anthony has a 
 peculiar history. On the night of November 4, 1874, the kneel- 
 ing figure of the saint was cut out of the canvas. The Spanish 
 government at once communicated the fact of its loss to the 
 civilized world, through its representatives, and the picture 
 was discovered in the city of New York, where it had been 
 offered to Mr. Schaus for fifty pounds. It was restored to its 
 original place with such skill that no indication that it had 
 ever been removed can be seen. 
 
o 
 
 rr 
 a- 
 
 CO 
 
 CD 
 
 P^Hi- 
 
"Proud Seville." 49 
 
 The Alcazar would need a volume to portray its diversified 
 beauty. Roman pillars with Gothic capitals, genuine Moorish 
 doors, ceilings, and tiles, with roofs of the same character, and 
 Arabian suites of rooms; along the garden tanks where kings 
 fished and queens and favorites of kings bathed, hidden foun- 
 tains, gardens worthy of Aladdin. In one of these may be 
 realized the full conception of the garden so glowingly de- 
 scribed in Gibbon and other historians of ancient luxury. 
 There were oranges and lemons growing in the open air, and 
 we plucked sweet lemons, distinguished from the sour by a 
 peculiarity in the leaf as well as by their possessing the sweet- 
 ness of the sweetest orange, while preserving the characteris- 
 tic lemon flavor. 
 
 Tragedies have stained these marbles with blood. Here 
 dwelt Don Pedro the Cruel, who murdered his brother, and 
 deserves to be classed with Ivan the Terrible, of Russia, and 
 Richard III, of England. If, as Byron says, 
 
 " Fair is proud Seville, 
 Let her country boast 
 Her strength, her wealth, her site of ancient days," 
 
 it cannot be forgotten that here was established the Inquisi- 
 tion. 
 
 Among the men of whose nativity Seville is proud are 
 the Roman emperors, Hadrian, Trajan, and Theodosius; 
 Murillo, jVIagellan, and Las Casas the philosopher and friend 
 of the Indians. Shortly after the discovery of America it was 
 the emporium of the world. PVom its port went forth Pizarro, 
 Columbus (on one or more of his voyages), and Cortes. Now 
 its people are indolent and pleasure-loving. Most of its mod- 
 ern enterprises are under the control of the English, who 
 manage its waterworks, tramways, and porcelain factory. 
 The people sing, coquette, chatter, sleep, and vainly felicitate 
 themselves on the glory-days past and gone. 
 
go Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 The Alhambra. 
 
 Approaching Granada — Not Disappointed in the Alhambra — Description — 
 History — Purpose — Splendor — Iconoclasm of the Christians — Ravages of 
 the French under Napoleon — Mysteiy and Magic of the Alhambra. 
 
 Clouds and mists covered the heights of the Alhambra, as 
 we looked forth on the morning after our arrival, which had 
 been late the previous evening. 
 
 I have read Irving, De Amicis — whose emotion and imagi- 
 nation make him so absorbing and misleading — and many other 
 writers on the Alhambra; and gazed upon numberless photo- 
 graphs and paintings, but the result has been as though photo- 
 graphs of the separate parts of the human body were exhibited 
 to an inhabitant of another sphere, as the materials from which 
 he must form an estimate of a living human being; for the Al- 
 hambra is not one building, but many. In the deepest valley 
 or the most gloomy desert on the globe, it would intoxicate 
 and enthrall ; but its situation increases its fascination im- 
 measurably. I doubt if earth contains a grander natural set- 
 ting for a more astonishing human creation. 
 
 The approaches to Granada for more than sixty miles are 
 increasingly grand. The Sierra Nevada rise to the south- 
 east to a height of nearly twelve thousand feet, while other 
 ranges are visible in every quarter. The city is built on hills, 
 spurs of the Sierra Nevada, at a height of more than two 
 thousand feet above the sea level. Beneath is a charming 
 valley, continually watered by rains and streams from the 
 Sierras, the summits of which are above the snow line. The 
 ascent from the bed of the river Darro to the Alhambra is a 
 steep climb by coach of nearly half an hour. The prospect is 
 enrapturing; the long line of the Sierras, occasionally lost in 
 the clouds; the valley, smooth as a prairie, seventy miles in 
 circumference, as green in the last weeks of December as New 
 England meadows in June, studded with "villas and vil- 
 
The Alhamura. 51 
 
 lages;" the river, like a thread of silver, winding through it, 
 and Granada itself, guarded, as Jerusalem, by the mountains 
 that were round about it; with its picturesque white or gray 
 stone houses, tile roofs, cathedral, churches, towers, private 
 residences of varying heights and forms. 
 
 It is a fashion to be disappointed in visiting the Alhambra, 
 and another to write of it in a vein of disparaging criticism. 
 That class of writers did us a service; for while they could 
 not wholly counteract the influence of dreams that began with 
 childhood, and were recollected with pleasure when they had 
 begun to fade with the dissipation of pleasing illusions, they 
 produced a calmness which estopped the thrill which would 
 otherwise have accompanied the first conscious approach to 
 the enchanted spot. Whatever may have been the experience 
 of others. I was not disappointed. The Alhambra, both in 
 what it is and in what it requires of the imagination, transcends 
 not only the formulated expectations, but the vague, undefin- 
 able fancies of the mind. ^ 
 
 The Moors, in everything differing from the Greeks and 
 Romans, never cared much for the exterior, made it as plain 
 as possible; but the interior revealed, as with a sudden burst 
 of sunrise, a profusion and wealth of decoration which would 
 alike astonish and captivate. 
 
 From our hotel, built against the wall that surrounds the 
 Alhambra, we entered the inclosure through wondrous scen- 
 ery; deep ravines on either hand, their sides covered with elm 
 trees a hundred feet high (presented by the Duke of Welling- 
 ton), growing there for three quarters of a century, inter- 
 spersed with cherry trees which almost overtop them. These 
 trees are the habitation of countless nightingales, which, in 
 their seasons, make the slopes vocal. Here and there streams 
 of water, pure and translucent as rock crystal, burst from the 
 mountain side. 
 
 Like the Kremlin at ]Moscow, the Alhambra is an inclosure, 
 a half mile long and an eighth of a mile wide, of irregular con- 
 fines. The Alhambra, as the word is generally used, occupies 
 but a small part of it. The hill is surrounded by walls thirty 
 feet high and six feet thick, but as the building is on the hill- 
 side, these walls do not shut out the view of it from below nor 
 
52 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 obstruct the view from above. It is cut off from tlie mountain 
 by an artificial ravine. 
 
 We entered by tiie Porch of Justice. Over the doorway 
 the name of the founder is inscribed, and this Mohammedan 
 prayer: "May the Almighty make this a protecting bulwark 
 and write down its erection among the imperishable actions of 
 the just." Over the outer arch a //^z//i^/ is. sculptured; over the 
 inner a key. The legend is that the Moors boasted that this 
 gate would never open to the Christians "till the hand took 
 the key." The hand never took the key, but the Chris- 
 tians entered nevertheless. Then we passed through the 
 fountains, baths, the Hall of Ambassadors, and the courts. 
 The supports in some of the rooms are concealed, "so that 
 the apparent supports, thin pillars and cashmere, perforated 
 fabric which seemed fairy work, appeared incapable of sus- 
 taining the roof." Divans, alcoves, courts of oranges, gar- 
 dens filled with tropical vegetation, in the midst of the 
 building, with inscriptions from the Koran everywhere, such 
 as, "There is no conqueror but Allah," culminating in the 
 Court of Lions, with its one hundred and twenty-eight pillars 
 of white marble, eleven feet high, upholding porticoes on 
 each side, transformed the Arabian Nights' entertainments 
 into reality. 
 
 In one of the private apartments of the Moorish kings, 
 splendid in richness and harmony, a poem is copied upon 
 the tiles, one stanza of which is thus translated by an Arabic 
 scholar: "Look attentively at my elegance and reap the 
 benefit of a commentary on decoration." 
 
 Who built the Alhambra, and why? A thousand years be- 
 fore Christ the Phoenicians had discovered the resources of 
 Spain and founded Cadiz. Seven hundred years later the 
 Carthaginians, their descendants, had subjugated a large part 
 of the peninsula. Five hundred years subsequently the Van- 
 dals, after ravaging France, swept south through the passes of 
 the Pyrenees into Spain, where they settled permanently. 
 Soon afterward the Visigoths went from Italy by way of 
 southern Gaul into Spain, and there began a series of struggles 
 with the Vandals and the Romans. 
 
 In the early part of the seventh century arose the most ter- 
 
Temple adjacent to the Court z: L:;r.s. 
 
The Alhambra. 
 
 55 
 
 rible power that had ever appeared in modern history in 
 , Asia — Mohammedanism. In less than seventy-five years 
 after the birth of Mohammed the Saracens had overrun all the 
 lands between Armenia and Khixa, and in less than sixty 
 more possessed themselves of North Africa, ravaged Asia 
 Minor, and besieged Constantinople. About the beginning of 
 the eighth century Spain was invaded, the hordes crossing the 
 straits under Taric, and landing at Algeciras, near Gibraltar. 
 Roderick, the last King of the Visigoths, intercepted them at 
 Xerez de la Fontera in 711. Nine days of battle were termi- 
 nated by the death of the Gothic king in single combat with 
 Taric, and this gave the Mussulmans the mastery over nearly 
 the whole of Spain, An independent Caliphate was established 
 at Cordova. The name Alhambra is mentioned for the first time 
 after the Moors had been in power in Spain for one hundred 
 and fifty years. Its meaning was simply a "Red Tower." 
 
 The first extraordinary edifice was erected by Ibn-1-ahmar, 
 in 1248. He enlarged the former structures and made an ad- 
 dition, which he intended should excel in grandeur the palaces 
 of Bagdad, Fez, and Damascus. His successors erected new 
 buildings, summoning the finest artists from all parts of the 
 world, and giving them free access to their treasures. An 
 elegant mosque was built in 1300; finally Yusuf I, who had such 
 stupendous resources that it was believed that he could trans- 
 mute other metals into gold, lavished so much on the interior 
 that the popular opinion was that the cost defied calcula- 
 tion. 
 
 Thus arose the Alhambra, a fortress palace, in which an 
 oriental monarch was to live, intended "to awe the city below 
 with the forbidding exterior of power, to keep out heat and 
 enemies, foreign and domestic, and to keep /// women." 
 
 The whole of Spain had not been subdued by the Moors. 
 Various kingdoms were formed; Asturias and Navarre, and 
 finally Castile, being among the most powerful. The central 
 kingdom associated itself with them, and waged continuous 
 war. The kingdom of Aragon was spreading rapidly, and the 
 Moors were restricted to Granada. In 1469, when Ferdinand, of 
 Aragon, married Isabella, Queen of Castile, the consolidation 
 of Spain into one empire began. Granada was conquered, and 
 
56 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 in 1492 the Moors were expelled from \he peninsula. Ferdi- 
 nand and Isabella resided for a time in the Alhambra, and in 
 one of its rooms the queen informed Christopher Columbus 
 that she would support him in his enterprise. 
 
 1 
 
 f^ 
 
 Court of the Myrtles. 
 
 So soon as the Christians obtained control the work of dev- 
 astation commenced. When Ferdinand and Isabella departed, 
 the monks and soldiers who were left did what they could to 
 destroy the Alhambra. They whitewashed the open work, 
 coating some of it so thick that a pickax was required to re- 
 move it; stole, destroyed, or sold the furniture. Charles V 
 determined to erect a palace, tore down a part of the Alham- 
 bra, and began a structure which has never been finished. 
 From age to age it deteriorated, until finally turned into an 
 asylum for debtors and state prisoners. When the French 
 took possession in 1810 and 181 2 they used it for barracks, 
 destroyed everything they could, and blew up the mosque, 
 which was said to have had no rival in the world. 
 
The Alhambra. 57 
 
 They mined the entire structure, and would have annihilated 
 the last vestige of its grandeur if a corporal had not put out 
 the fuses. After the conquest it was olTered to the Duke of 
 Wellington, but he preferred another place, which is still 
 owned by his descendants. Not till 1842 did its repair and 
 restorations begin, but these have since been' carried forward 
 with success. 
 
 In examining the registry of visitors we saw signatures of 
 the greatest interest. The first in the collection was Washing- 
 ton Irving, May 12, 1829, whose room in the Alhambra, look- 
 ing into a court of oranges and palms, is now one of the 
 "lions." Irving did more to rekindle interest in the Alham- 
 bra than any other person. Then followed Caleb Gushing, 
 P'ebruary 16, 1830, dc los Estados Unidos de America; Caroline 
 A\'. Cushing. Here is a name which subsequently was felt 
 around the world — Benjamin Disraeli, July 31, 1830. 
 
 It is impossible fur me to describe the Alhambra. Indeed, 
 if Mr. Richard Ford, who lived for a year within it, and who 
 has written the best general book upon Spain, is to be be- 
 lieved, I do not understand it, having visited it but three 
 times. He says: "To understand the Alhambra it must be 
 visited often and alone; at night, when the moon floats above 
 it in the air like its crescent symbol, the tender beam tips the 
 filigree arches, a depth is given to the shadows and a misty, 
 undefined magnitude to the salons beyond, . . . then, in pro- 
 portion to the silence around, does the fancy and imagination 
 become alive. The shadows of the cypresses on the walls 
 assume the form of the dusky Moor as, dressed in his silken 
 robes, he comes to lament over the profanation of the infidel 
 and the devourment by the destroyer." 
 
5S Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Granada and Malaga. 
 
 The Cartujan Convent — Its Beautiful Church — Cathedral and the Sepul- 
 chers and Graves of Ferdinand and Isabella — Gypsies — Malaga — Its Fruit, 
 Superb Scenery — Beggars — Visitors — Midnight jMass on Christmas Eve — 
 Suburbs. 
 
 Besides the Alhambra there are many things to please 
 and instruct in Granada. The Generalife (grounds of the 
 architect from whom the Sultan purchased the site more than 
 five centuries ago) is noteworthy for views, gleaming streams, 
 elevation above the Alhambra — the latter appearing more 
 like a fortress from that point than from any other; for carved 
 doors, arches, and arabesques; aged and immense cypresses, 
 and raised gardens, with flights of Italian steps through which 
 fountains play. Above the Generalife stretches a chain of 
 hills, over which we took a long stroll, attaining a point nearly 
 a thousand feet above the level of Granada. 
 
 The Cartujan convent contains one of the finest pictures by 
 Alonzo Cano, on the roll of Spain's greatest artists, and has a 
 church inlaid with tortoise shell, ebony, and cedar wood. 
 
 There we were permitted to try some experiments for the 
 purpose of ascertaining how much the voices of the priests are 
 affected by the echoes produced in the vast expanses of hol- 
 low domes, naves, and transepts. Our previous opinion, that 
 a voice which would not attract special attention in an ordi- 
 nary church of a rectangular form, with stationary seats, will in 
 a cathedral be greatly magnified, w-as fully confirmed; for on 
 singing the Doxology in English, a language unknown to the 
 custodian, we were almost appalled by the tremendous volume 
 of sound. 
 
 In Granada is the cage in which San Juan de Dios was con- 
 fined as a lunatic for preaching the necessity of " Foundling 
 Hospitals." He died in 1550, and was canonized one hundred 
 and fifty years afterward ! 
 

 
 m 
 
 ■<^. 
 
Granada and Malaga. 
 
 6i 
 
 The gyps)^ quarters greath' interest travelers. These, the 
 strangest of half-civilized human beings, live in caves. It was 
 astonishing to find a suite of rooms excavated in the side of a 
 hill, without ventilation, except through a single front door, 
 filled with an atmosphere apparentl}' as pure as that of a well- 
 ventilated dwelling. There were very few such; most were 
 
 Gypsy Quarters in Granada. 
 
 dens of filth, the habits of the occupants being less cleanly 
 than those of wild beasts. Their demands for money were 
 vociferous and persistent, and a stranger of timid disposition 
 wandering among them might be in danger. 
 
 The Cathedral of Granada is not remarkable in comparison 
 with those of Toledo and Seville, but the Capilla Real, which 
 contains carved efifigies of P^rdinand and Isabella exactly 
 
62 Travels ix Three Coxtixexts. 
 
 representing their faces, forms, and costumes, and the magnifi- 
 cent Carrara marble sepulchers, upon which are extended life- 
 size figures, and their graves beneath, which have never been 
 disturbed, receive merited reverence both from the Spanish 
 people and foreigners. Here we saw the box in which were 
 kept the jewels hypothecated by Isabella to raise the money to 
 equip Columbus. Those jewels lighted the path to a new 
 world. 
 
 Our route after leaving Granada was direct to Malaga. As 
 we drew near the end of the journey, the tunnels, precipices, 
 overhanging cliffs, in the darkness of the night, made the 
 stars seem as lanterns waved by mountaineers signaling each 
 other. Malaga, on a bay of the ^Mediterranean, protected by 
 these mountains, exhibits almost tropical scenery. It seemed 
 like midsummer, yet the people were preparing for Christmas, 
 and the market was filled with fowl of every kind, oranges, 
 figs, lemons, raisins, quinces, melons, pomegranates, olives, 
 tomatoes, eggplants, oysters, and fish, in which soles, red 
 mullets, and sardines were conspicuous. For three days, Sun- 
 day not excepted, the clamor of hucksters never ceased until 
 the small hours, and began again long before daybreak. A 
 multitude of hideous beggars could be seen — blind, scrofulous, 
 and verminous. If a half dozen hospitals had been burned in 
 a night and the patients turned loose, with the inmates of a 
 lunatic asylum included, loathsome creatures would hardly 
 have been more numerous. Blind asylums appear to be com- 
 paratively unknown, though the habits of the people and the 
 climate in the southern part tend to increase the number of 
 those deprived of sight. At almost every station sightless 
 eyes, or sockets without eyes, were turned up, accompanied by 
 noisy appeals for relief. 
 
 Malaga has few monuments of antiquity and few public 
 'buildings of importance ; but its climate, harbor, vessels, 
 and its somewhat cosmopolitan population; its relation to 
 Mediterranean travel; its numerous visitors from northern 
 Europe who come to escape the rigors of winter; and its 
 famous oranges and raisins, make it a pleasant resting place. 
 
 Through the courtesy of Colonel Marston, the American 
 consul, we received an invitation to visit the studio of Caba- 
 
CiRAN'ADA AND MALAGA. 63 
 
 nerro, one of the first of the younger artists of Spain. A 
 superb picture had just been accepted by the government for 
 the Senate Chamber, and the sum of ten thousand dollars 
 appropriated as his compensation. The painting, which had 
 just received the finishing touches, occupied the entire side of 
 the large studio, and represented a scene of hundreds of years 
 ago, when the King of Spain appeared at the court of the sul- 
 tan in Constantinople to offer him his troops. The sultan, 
 the commanding otficers, and the fierce, swarthy men of Ara- 
 gon were depicted with startling vividness. Great local in- 
 terest had been aroused by the painter's taking some of his 
 models from the faces of living residents of Malaga. 
 
 Everyone recommended us to attend the midnight mass in 
 the cathedral on Christmas Eve. The people of Malaga attend 
 services on this day in much larger numbers than on Sundays 
 and other feast days. It was estimated that more than five 
 thousand were in the building. As our party advanced the 
 organ and choir pealed forth a volume of sound which made 
 the massive walls ring again. Besides the multitude standing, 
 a thousand worshipers in front of the high altar were upon 
 their knees. These consisted exclusively of women, not a 
 man in the vast assembly could be seen kneeling. 
 
 In all parts of the building irreverence was manifested. 
 When the Host was elevated the people mechanically crossed 
 themselves, but, at the same moment, there began a struggle 
 on the part of the women to get nearer. They jabbered at 
 each other, pushed and crowded, and fairly fought for places, 
 all the while, however, except a few of the more fierce, laugh- 
 ing. Men generally were more irreverent in their deportment 
 than women. The aspect was that of a show and people in- 
 tent upon making the most of it. An epidemic of laughter 
 finally spread over the entire assembly, and what should have 
 been a solemn scene became a caricature of devotion. As 
 the celebrating priest was feeble, the mass was read by three 
 priests in unison, whose united voices were not easily heard in 
 the remoter parts of the edifice. 
 
 A Catholic citizen, when asked concerning the music, replied 
 that it was supposed to be ''the very melody sung by the 
 angels at the birth of our Lord." It was not, however, stated 
 
64 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 that the shepherds who heard the song understood musical 
 notation, and that one had a tablet with him and took down 
 the notes I 
 
 In the presence of the entire assembly, during a part of the 
 performance, an assistant availed himself of the opportunit)'' 
 for a nap, and one of the brothers awoke him. I record this 
 merely as a fact, having seen a Protestant minister asleep in 
 the pulpit when a bishop was preaching. When the service 
 was over the struggle was fearful. The crowd, now a turbu- 
 lent mob, pushed and elbowed its way out. 
 
 While in Malaga we called on Senor Vila, Pastor of the 
 Spanish Protestant Church, a man of force, intelligence, and 
 courage unexampled. For the offense of vindicating his 
 work against the aspersions of priests he was heavily fined, 
 and condemned to imprisonment for two years, the execution 
 of which part of the sentence was indefinitely delayed. 
 
 Among the walks and rides taken in Malaga and its suburbs 
 a visit to the sugar cane fields should not be forgotten. Here 
 the cane grows in a few places as luxuriantly as in Louisiana, 
 and almost as much so as in the West Indies. The children 
 are as happy when they get sticks of sugar cane to suck as 
 they are in colder climates on receiving a box of confectioner}''; 
 judging from what we saw it has some decided advantages, for 
 a stick two or three feet long will give linked sweetness long 
 drawn in and keep the urchins quiet until excess of sweets 
 brings on the usual results. 
 
 Driving for an hour up the dry bed of the river we reached 
 the estate of the Marquis of Casa Loring. The Spanish Lor- 
 ings, a branch of the Massachusetts family of that name, have 
 attained great wealth and rank in Spain. Almost all the rail- 
 roads were built under the superintendence of the oldest mem- 
 ber; a title has been conferred upon him, and his estates at 
 Madrid, Malaga, and elsewhere are among the finest. The 
 members of the family, having married into ancient Spanish 
 families and embraced the Roman Catholic religion, are allied 
 with the aristocrats of the kingdom. This estate is noted for 
 the beauty and luxuriance of its vegetation. An enraptured 
 writer mingles his figures b)' saying that it and an adjoining 
 one of San Jose, the property of Don Tomas Heredia, "Are 
 
Granada and Malaga, 65 
 
 beautiful oases in the sea of sun-gilt hills surrounding Alal- 
 ao-a " We visited both these estates. The view from the 
 Marquis of Loring's place is finer than any prospect from 
 the other, and in a small temple of Grecian style, on the 
 grounds, are many Roman remains collected from the neigh- 
 boring villages. Tablets, containing remarkable specimens 
 of Roman municipal law, are exhibited in this museum. 
 But the charm of both places is the variety and profusion 
 of subtropical and tropical plants, vegetables, and trees, which 
 make them horticultural gardens, where one may see the prod- 
 ucts of all climates except the coldest. Here were immense fig 
 trees, countless orange trees bending under the weight of their 
 fruit, interspersed with the paler lemon ; date palms reared 
 their lofty heads, and in some instances the clusters needing 
 support. Magnificent bamboos and palms, whose annual rings 
 indicated their age, lined the avenues. The female date palms 
 were much more numerous than the male, the former bearing 
 all the fruit. Extraordinary specimens of the cactus, with 
 groves of the eucalyptus, introduced from Australia to counter- 
 act the causes of malaria, are prominent features of the land- 
 scape. With apple and pear trees, vines, fountains, artificial 
 lakes, streams gurgling from the hills — in fine, here was every- 
 thing that nature and art could produce to make basking places 
 for weary travelers or indolent loiterers in life's dusty path. 
 The hothouse seemed to me a blemish, calling attention to 
 the limitations of the otherwise Edenic situation. 
 
 The Heredias are proprietors of the long-established iron 
 works, the most important industry of Malaga. The family 
 are devoted Catholics. 
 
 We spent Christmas in Malaga, struggling against the trav- 
 eler's gloom, which attacks almost everyone absent from 
 home and friends, but is most acute (Mi festal days. While all 
 were giving and receiving presents, the only attention bestowed 
 upon us was by hotel waiters hoping for fees, and beggars 
 seeking alms. 
 
66 Travels ix Three Coxtinexts. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Peculiarities of the Spaniards. 
 
 Aspect of Spanish People — Spectacles in Squares and Streets — Spanish Polite- 
 ness — Amusements — Morals — Lotteries — Women — Guardias Civiles — Reli- 
 gion, Catholic and Protestant. 
 
 However long the visit, unless the traveler becomes a resi- 
 dent, mastering the language, and associating with the people, 
 he must be at a disadvantage when he attempts to describe in- 
 dividual character or social condition. Yet foreign residents 
 often hold diverse opinions of the same things. The system 
 adopted by me in studying the people of a country, is to read 
 what travelers and standard authors have written; to observe 
 all classes attentively; to converse with all who are accessible; 
 to communicate with foreign residents, consuls, merchants, 
 students; to ask questions, comparing the answers; and finally 
 to submit the conclusions to intelligent natives who under- 
 stand English, and to foreigners of different nationalities who 
 have long lived in the country. 
 
 The aspect of the people of Spain differs in different parts 
 as the inhabitants had a diverse ancestrv. The climate of the 
 north is cold, scenery stern, conditions of life hard; that of 
 the south is mild, its fruits and prospects those of perpetual 
 summer, its life in the open air and its costumes picturesque. 
 But all classes have intermarried, and removals to common 
 centers have increased, until now in the streets of the cities 
 every variety that could result from the admixture of the 
 original population with the Goths, Moors, Romans, Greeks, 
 and Phoenicians appears. 
 
 While two thirds of the people have the Spanish type, one in 
 three looks as much like an Englishman or an American as 
 the majority of the natives of those countries, having the lighter 
 complexion and even the same general expression of counte- 
 nance. 
 
 As the Spaniards make greater use of promenades, ride. 
 
Peculiarities of the Spaniards. 67 
 
 walk, and sit in public more than any other people, the spec- 
 tacles in the squares and streets are always pleasing; not less 
 so is village life where there is more regard for ease and less 
 care for mere show. 1 did not expect to see many instances in 
 the capital and larger cities, of the picturesque national dresses, 
 and was agreeably surprised. Though many of the upper 
 classes wear high hats like Englishmen or Frenchmen, and 
 ladies have laid aside veils and mantillas, the cloak without 
 the cape is still much used by gentlemen who, for the most 
 part, have renounced the- gay colors. 
 
 The middle classes, especially persons somewhat advanced 
 in years, wear the cloak and cape, with red, and other bright 
 velvet linings. 
 
 Spaniards are very polite; even beggars salute one another 
 as though they were grandees. But though the grandiloquent 
 style in which they accost one another provokes a smile, the 
 manner in which " General," "Colonel," "Squire," "Major," 
 "Judge," "Doctor," " Professor, " and degrees of all kinds are 
 sought and used, and even inscribed on visiting cards in the 
 United States, should prevent us from thinking meanly of 
 the Spaniards for a manifestation of a weakness of human 
 nature which no form of government or religion has yet been 
 able to eradicate or materially diminish. 
 
 We did not find the custom of taking off the hat in entering 
 banks, offices, and stores as universal as represented. In many 
 places, perhaps under the influence of foreign trade, we were 
 embarrassed, not by the excess, but by the lack of such polite- 
 ness as is common even in America. Still even in this day it 
 is not an easy or brief task to equal Spaniards in greeting, foi 
 they are never in a hurry. 
 
 Much of this politeness is superficial. The offers made are 
 expected to be declined, and a writer in praising Spanish 
 courtesy is obliged to say that " Spaniards, although they sel- 
 dom bid a foreigner [as guest], will accept his bidding." 
 
 When they address the man by his last name he is Senor, 
 as Senor de Garcia; if the Christian name is used Z)o7i is em- 
 ployed, as Don Ferdinand Garcia. Formerly Don was equiv- 
 alent to Sir as used in England, as Sir William Jones; now it 
 is applied to everyone, and there is an old proverb that Don 
 5 
 
68 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 without din (money) does not amount to anything. The 
 Spaniards hate abruptness, address each other as Caballcro, 
 and abound in such phrases as "Please tell me," "Be 
 so kind." Those who neglect these things give offense. 
 Beggars that swarm everywhere are refused in a manner which 
 illustrates the superficial character of many of the phrases in 
 use. Wnen they become annoying the Spaniard says, " My 
 brother, will vou excuse me, for God's sake? " or he tells him 
 that God will take care of him, and he may say this while he 
 is anathematizing him to his companion. 
 
 Amusements consist largely of music, dancing, and festivals. 
 
 " There ne'er was born a Spanish woman yet, 
 But she was born to dance." 
 
 Everyone dances, and the music is chiefly adapted to it. The 
 guitar is the most popular instrument. Castanets and tam- 
 bourines are used in some parts of the country, and in 
 churches on special occasions. In southern Spain one could 
 rarely pass out of hearing of the tones of the guitar in the 
 evenings. The lower classes could be seen dancing without 
 reserve. 
 
 The Spaniards turn everything into an occasion for a holi- 
 day, and each holiday into a festival. Every place has its 
 saint^ processions, and pilgrimages, almost all degenerating 
 into picnics. The catalogue for the year of such days is 
 almost as appalling as in Russia, interfering with business and 
 reducing the legitimate income of the nation, as well as in- 
 creasing its expenditures to an almost unsupportable extent. 
 
 The people are the most persistent and excessive smokers. 
 Little boys of eight or ten years of age smoke, and in all 
 places except the church men were always indulging. They 
 pay no regard to the presence of women. Few apartments on 
 the trains, even yfrjY-class, are reserved for the use of non- 
 smokers; but everywhere fumes arise. The Spaniard smokes 
 while he is shaving, when he is in the opera, and when in his 
 place in the Cortes. Upon health the effect is bad. It is 
 very difficult to find Spaniards who do not complain of some 
 malady. Dyspepsia and nervous diseases, including spasmodic 
 affections, are common. 
 
Peculiarities of the Spaniards. 69 
 
 The standard of morals is not high. By this it is not in- 
 tended to indorse the extravagant imputations upon the women, 
 nor to imply that every Spaniard is untruthful, unclean, or dis- 
 honest. Spaniards are not especially intemperate in the use 
 of alcohol, and drunkenness, though seen, is not frequent. We 
 looked for it in places and at times which would certainly have 
 revealed much were it general. They eat and drink less than 
 any other nation in Europe. But they are devoted to lotteries, 
 and next to beggars, the venders of lottery tickets are the 
 greatest nuisances encountered. Of this business the govern- 
 ment has a monopoly. The report of the United States consul 
 at Madrid speaks of the evil elTects of the institution, and in 
 showing the final results to the government, he says that this 
 method of raising money is alike paltry and pernicious. It is 
 the working classes who are most injured, for by it their heads 
 are filled with ideas of suddenly accumulating riches. 
 
 Bribery is general; most public officials being so dishonest 
 that it is a common saying that anything can be done by 
 bribery, and nothing in the regular way. Mayors of cities 
 grow rich in a year. One, at least, of the most important 
 cities is utterly destitute of credit. Spaniards so distrust each 
 other that money is not forthcoming for great public works. 
 The English manage the waterworks, the street cars, and 
 almost everything else. It has been remarked that a distinc- 
 tion must be made between the Spaniard in his individual and 
 in his collective capacity, and still more in an official one; 
 " to him as an individual you may trust your life, fair fame, and 
 purse, but in his corporate capacity, either business or official, 
 as he trusts nobody, he has been willing to float down the 
 turbid stream like the rest." 
 
 In southern Spain women are spoken of in a manner which 
 shows how low the standard of virtue is. Foundling asylums 
 are numerous, and, as in Russia, no questions are asked when 
 those "conceived in sin and born in iniquity " are presented 
 for admission. A Spaniard, not a Protestant, who abominated 
 the whole system remarked to me that the proper inscription 
 for those buildings is, "Violations of the Seventh Command- 
 ment Made Easy." 
 
 The disposition of the average Spaniard is fiery and vindic- 
 
70 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 tive. The long knife is quickly drawn. A courteous request, 
 couched in flattering words, "especially a silver key " propor- 
 tioned in weight to the social standing of the person to whom 
 it is applied, will secure anything within his power to be- 
 stow; but it is in vain to attempt either to drive or to hurry 
 a Spaniard. , Their great word is ^'- mahana,'' "to-morrow, 
 to-morrow. " 
 
 Violence, robbery, and insecurity of life and property have 
 given place to comparative security. Besides the local police 
 and ordinary means of preserving order, there is a body of 
 men, consisting of twenty thousand foot, and five thousand 
 horse guards, called Guardias Civiles, to distinguish them 
 from military and naval guards. They are recruited from 
 long-service men in the army, and from the military college, 
 where are educated for the force the orphan children of such 
 guards as have died in the discharge of their duty. They are 
 assigned in couples to every town and village, and in small 
 barracks along the highroads in larger numbers throughout 
 all Spain. The uniform is dark blue, with light yellow belts. 
 Two meet every train at every station, and the law requires 
 them in patrolling the roads to walk at least twelve paces 
 apart, so as not to be surprised simultaneously. The cav- 
 alry carry swords, revolvers, and short guns; the foot sol- 
 diers Remington rifles with bayonets, and sometimes other 
 weapons. The men must be five feet eight inches high, and 
 every member of the force is able to read and write. We saw 
 hundreds of them, everywhere picturesque and noble figures. 
 They have destroyed the organized robbers that made travel 
 dangerous, and are in readiness to check the slightest disturb- 
 ance. Yet in many places the knife is a too convenient 
 weapon. It is not an uncommon thing in Malaga, in street 
 fights, for men to draw long, murderous knives, and begin to 
 cut each other to pieces. The police, when there is a fight of 
 that kind, keep out of the way; for when the Spaniards are 
 heated with passion or wine, they are liable to turn upon the 
 officers of the law and make an end of them quickly. 
 
 Lack of suitable institutions for paupers accounts for the 
 horrible cases which constantly offend the eye. It should be 
 remembered that if all such cases detained in institutions in 
 
Peculiarities of the Spaniards. 71 
 
 the United States were turned into the streets, our own 
 country would present a similar appearance. In the treat- 
 ment of lunacy Spain is behind other nations. The number 
 of ascertained lunatics is small, ^\'hile the climate tends 
 to develop fierce, warlike, and excitable natures, it also 
 produces an indolence which, together with practical philoso- 
 phy of postponement, causes speculations, ambitions, political 
 passions "to effervesce like champagne and then collapse." 
 Many of the inmates of such asylums as exist are criminals, 
 who should be punished; and many wandering beggars are 
 lunatics who should be placed under restraint. Though still 
 behind other countries, the people of Spain are certainly 
 improving. 
 
 A Roman priest of high standing wrote that, "owing to 
 the national temper of Spain, Catholicism in that country be- 
 came the most intolerant and cruel form that Christianity 
 has ever assumed." It is certainly at the present time more 
 superstitious and severe toward dissenters than in any other 
 European country. 
 
 Notwithstanding this, priests as a class are notoriously 
 frivolous and profligate. The hardest things we heard said 
 of them came from Catholics, nor would any Protestant dare 
 to speak publicly of them so disparagingly as do their own 
 people. The wife of a foreign consul, herself a Catholic, 
 declared that "there were but three or four priests in the 
 entire Church in that city to whom an honest woman could 
 confess." The people consider the confessional, chiefly fre- 
 quented by women, as an organized institution for the pollu- 
 tion of the family. 
 
 Not until 1868 did religious freedom, guaranteed in theory, 
 become anything more than an unfulfilled promise. At that 
 time the Protestant world was roused to hope and ardor 
 by the reports from Spain. Various Churches at once sent 
 missionaries, and volunteers were not wanting who of their 
 own motion, or under the direction of self-originated com- 
 mittees, hastened into the field — a few with, but most with- 
 out, a knowledge of the language. In various sections they 
 were welcomed with everv manifestation of interest. The 
 promise, however, was not sustained. The burial of the 
 
72 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 dead and visitation of the sick constantly appealed in behalf 
 of the established Church. Though a man had determnied 
 to become a Protestant, his wife, mother, and sister would 
 resist it to the last. Horror of being refused burial in 
 consecrated ground was constantly before the sick; the taunt 
 of changing religion on every lip; and a variety of petty per- 
 secutions began, especially in the towns, villages, and country 
 districts. 
 
 Those who crowded to hear evangelical preachers, regard- 
 mg them as symbols of a revolt against monarchy, and who 
 at first were prone to say, "Why, I believe as you say; put 
 my name down to join your church; I am with you," 
 when they heard of conversion, and were solemnly warned 
 that no priest could absolve them, but God only, lost interest 
 in the movement, and speedily fell away. All the middle 
 classes, and those of the higher who began to show any in- 
 terest in Protestantism, experienced the force of social odium. 
 So hostile is the atmosphere that those who attempt to move 
 in society in Spain must not avow themselves Protestants. 
 
 Here is an instance. An English lady, residing in one of 
 the chief cities in southern Spain, her husband having a large 
 business there, was in the habit of giving receptions, which 
 were numerously attended by the elite. She was not a 
 Romanist, but had not affiliated herself with the Protestant 
 church in the place. During her absence in England in the 
 summer, it was rumored, though falsely, that she intended to 
 connect herself with the Protestant church on her return 
 in the autumn. When she came back, knowing nothing of 
 this rumor, she issued cards for a reception as before, and not 
 one Spaniard of the many invited attended. 
 
 Protestant congregations for worship are small, the largest 
 scarcely numbering one hundred and fifty, including all the 
 children in the schools, most of them being much smaller 
 than that. Yet, from the point of view of a lover of 
 liberty for both Catholic and Protestant, there are several 
 things which more than justify the effort. To have seen a 
 Protestant school in the house in which Philip H lived while 
 the Escorial was building; to have heard the singing of 
 Protestant hymns in the city in which thousands were con- 
 
Peculiarities of the Spaniards. 73 
 
 demned "to the pleasant death of the stake;" to have 
 Hstened to plain Protestant preaching within fifteen minutes' 
 walk of the very spot where the Inquisition was established; 
 to have tracts on "the way of salvation" thrust into one's 
 hands in a street along which wild huzzas of fiendish joy filled 
 the air when a woman was brought forth to be burned fcjr her 
 allegiance to Christ, and to hear a Gospel sermon where first 
 the pagan, afterward the Mohammedan, then the Catholic de- 
 clared that nothing other than what he believed should be 
 taught or believed — surely this, to everyone who, whatever his 
 creed may be, rejoices in human progress, is something worth 
 tossing to and-fro upon stormy seas, and traveling weary miles 
 on land to do, to see, to hear, and to feel ! 
 
74 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 The Bullfights of Spain. 
 
 Popularity of Bullfights — Cost — Description — Attempts to Suppress — Atti- 
 tude of the Church. 
 
 Bullfights were never more popular than they are to-day, 
 and for twenty years have been increasing in influence, ex- 
 travagance, and numbers attending. The theater occupies a 
 secondary place, not only in the feelings of the lower, but in 
 the sentiments of the upper classes. Not that the people of 
 Spain love the theater less, but they love the bullfights far 
 more. 
 
 Barcelona has opera houses and theaters, one of which holds 
 four thousand persons, and disputes with three or four other 
 cities for the honor of having the largest in Europe. But the 
 bull ring is twice as large as the theater, and Barcelona is 
 proud of its fights, equal to those of any city in Spain, except 
 Valencia and Madrid. At Madrid the bull ring will seat 
 twelve thousand seven hundred persons, and is a wonderful 
 structure, to explore which consumed an afternoon. It is 
 built in the style of an ancient Roman circus, and in it the 
 most famous fights take place. The highest salaries are paid, 
 "and the most distinguished professionals employed." The 
 bulls are specially bred in the finest pastures. 
 
 On Easter Sunday, a few minutes after the gorgeous pa- 
 geants in the churches and cathedrals are at an end, the season 
 commences. The succeeding Sundavs are bull davs until the 
 heat of dog days enervates man and beast. There is a second 
 season in the autumn. Performances begin about half past 
 four in the afternoon, and last two or three hours; a good seat 
 costs one dollar and a half. 
 
 The ring of ^lalaga is of extraordinary size and located in 
 the best part of the city. At Salamanca, where the University 
 is practically in a state of collapse, the ring is very prosperous. 
 
"0 
 
 CO 
 
 5" 
 p 
 
 CD 
 
 c 
 
 
 n^B 
 
 
 ilH" 
 
 m 
 
 Vl3 ! ' 
 
 :=Sl 
 
 
 ^ - I *« 
 
 iiitOl 
 
 iV 
 
The Bullfights of Spain. 77 
 
 The bullfights of Valencia are famous, and as is generally the 
 case the ring belongs to the trustees of the hospital. It seats 
 fifteen thousand eight hundred and fifty-one persons. \\'ell has 
 it been remarked that it is in harmony with reason that the 
 trustees of the hospitals should own these buildings, for the 
 fever excited in the people and the accidents furnish patients 
 as well as funds. The fights in Valencia are considered by 
 many second only to those of Madrid. 
 
 Seville is called the alma viatcr of the ring, because in the 
 opinion of those who have investigated the matter, the bull ring, 
 though based on Roman institutions, as it now is "is indu- 
 bitably a thing devised by the Moors of Spain, fur those in 
 Africa have neither the sport, the ring, nor the recollection." 
 At Seville the ring is of stone, occupies a conspicuous place 
 on the banks of the Guadalquivir, and will seat eleven thou- 
 sand. 
 
 Near Cordova, in the famous pastures, we saw thousands of 
 bulls, and as the country is without fences, except here and 
 there a wall to keep together those that have been selected for 
 the approaching fights, the scene resembled the Western plains 
 before the buffalo had been exterminated. 
 
 Each exhibition costs from fifteen hundred to two thousand 
 dollars. The day before the spectacle the bulls are brought, 
 to the town, causing intense excitement. The people dress in 
 their best, and all classes are so wrought up that they can 
 hardly contain themselves. Formerly only gentlemen fought; 
 now none but professionals. Seville and the whole of southern 
 Spain were in a state of ferment at the time of our visit, pre- 
 paring for a bullfight of extraordinary magnificence, the pro- 
 ceeds to be given to the widow of a man who had been killed 
 in the ring some time before. It was expected that she would 
 receive at least ten thousand dollars. We saw the bulls in 
 special cars, drawn by horses and guarded by officials. 
 
 The bullfight is always the same. The opening is an- 
 nounced with pomp. The president takes his seat in a box 
 in the center, and the performers pass before him in pro- 
 cession. These consist of picadors, who carry spears, ride 
 on horses, advance and receive the bull's attack, for before 
 they can attack him he rushes upon them. The chulos fol- 
 
78 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 low the picadors ; they are apprentices who divert the bull 
 from the picadors. Then come the banderilleras, who are on 
 foot and carry darts, which they plant, if possible, in the neck 
 of the bull. In the third act the espada comes forward to slay 
 the bull with the sword. During the two or three hours of 
 performance from six to eight bulls are killed. Men, women, 
 and children yell and utter every possible form of praise or 
 blame for man and brute. Several horses are killed, and the 
 scene, as they leap about the ring after being gored by the 
 bulls, is unfit for description. When a bull is killed he is 
 dragged off by mules, glittering with flags and tinkling bells. 
 Slow bulls are beaten, abused, and anathematized by the specta- 
 tors ; "such animals as show the white feather are loathed as 
 depriving the public of their just rights, and are beaten as they 
 pass within reach by sticks carried by the people; " but a " mur- 
 derous bull, who gores horses, upsets men, and clears the 
 plaza, becomes a universal favorite. Long life is wished to 
 him by those who know he must be killed within ten minutes. 
 . . . The horsemen often show marvelous skill in managing to 
 place their horses as a rampart between them and the bull." 
 When deadly struggles take place, every expression of anxiety, 
 fear, eagerness, horror, and delight is visible. These feelings 
 reach the highest pitch when the horse, maddened with wounds 
 and terror, plunging to the fatal struggle, crimson streams of 
 blood streaking his foaming body, flies from the infuriated bull. 
 
 When the horses are dead they are dragged off, and when 
 the picador is wounded he is carried out and forgotten, new 
 gladiators appearing. A gentleman informed me that he had 
 seen twelve dead horses hauled away from the scene after hav- 
 ing been butchered in a hideous manner. 
 
 The bull is one of the most terrible animals when roused. 
 Sometimes wild beasts are brought to contend with him, and 
 within the last twenty-five years a bull slew successively a lion 
 brought from Africa and a tiger brought from India to fight 
 with him. On another occasion this bull encountered a lion 
 and a tiger at the same time and disabled both. As he was 
 then believed to be unconquerable, an elephant was brought 
 upon the scene. This ponderous animal simply pressed upon 
 the spine of the hero of so many conflicts and crushed him 
 
The Bullfights of Spain. 79 
 
 into an incoherent mass. I'liat elepliant was kept in Madrid 
 and exhibited until his death. 
 
 This fiendish cruelty is defended by the Spaniards and their 
 sympathizers. The horses, they say, are old animals of no 
 account. They have to be blinded, otherwise they would not 
 face the bull. If they are only wounded the gash is sewed up 
 and stopped with tow, and they are still forced to fight. The Span- 
 iards say that the bull is a tame, almost a domestic, animal, 
 and would never fight at all unless roused by the sight of blood, 
 and to use these old horses for that purpose is not to be con- 
 demned. They charge against other nations similar things, 
 speaking contemptuously of the Protestants who object to 
 their fights, and yet play the salmon and chase the hare and 
 the fox. 
 
 When the intelligence and sensibility of the horse and his 
 services to mankind are taken into the account, whatever may 
 be said for or against hunting or fishing, that the cases are not 
 parallel is clear. The Spaniards also contend that the effects 
 produced upon them are not the same as upon people not ac- 
 customed to such scenes. That is the same as to aftirm that the 
 eft'ect of a brutal prize fight would be different upon persons 
 who never saw it from that produced upon those who are in 
 the habit of witnessing such spectacles. What blunts the sen- 
 sibilities to such sights as Spanish bullfights is brutalizing and 
 degrading. Several American ladies and gentlemen concluded 
 to go to a bullfight, notwithstanding it was upon the Sabbath. 
 Having sophisticated their consciences, they went, and one 
 said to another: "Now, you are here on Sunday; whatever 
 sin there is in it you have committed, and had better fix your 
 eyes on everything and see it through." 
 
 In less than fifteen minutes after it began the spectacle was 
 too horrible to be endured, so that all the ladies save one were 
 made ill, and she could not turn her eyes from the horrible 
 sight. One of the gentlemen fainted and fell to the floor. A 
 Frenchman sitting near them also fell in a swoon. The entire 
 party, in less than half an hour, were compelled to retreat. 
 This was at a fight given in honor of the King of Portugal, at 
 that time visiting Madrid. 
 
 It is the conduct of many Americans and Englishmen that 
 
8o Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 gives the defenders of bullfights their strongest practical 
 point. They go to the disgusting exhibitions, and often develop 
 a mania which leads them to boast "that they went every 
 Sunday while they were in Spain." We saw members of 
 Christian churches who expressed great disappointment at the 
 postponement of a bullfight which they had expected to at- 
 tend; and a young lady gave us an account of the conduct of 
 her minister, from Scotland, who went to a bullfight on Sun- 
 day, '■'■Just to see what the customs of the country tvere." 
 
 The attitude of Roman Catholicism is theoretically one of 
 condemnation, but practically bullfights are encouraged by the 
 Church, which in many places has a strong, though indirect, 
 interest in the profits. 
 
 At the bull ring at Madrid a chapel is attached to the ring 
 in which the bullfighters, before entering the arena, meet and 
 have a short religious service, a priest being in readiness. In 
 ancient times those killed on the spot were denied burial rites 
 on the ground that they died without confessing; but a priest 
 is "now in attendance with Su Magestad (the sacred Host), 
 ready to give always spiritual assistance to a dying combatant." 
 
 Queen Isabella was opposed to the fights, though they were 
 far less cruel then than now, and had a direct influence upon 
 the breed of horses and the development among gentlemen 
 of courage and dexterity with the lance. The pope issued 
 edicts against them, yet they persisted, and under the despot- 
 ism of fashion the bullfight was "stripped of its chivalrous 
 character and degenerated into the vulgar butchery of low 
 mercenary bullfighters, just as did our rings and tournaments 
 of chivalry into those of rufifian pugilists." 
 
 In 1868 a bill was brought into the Cortes to abolish bull- 
 fights, but the sympathies of almost the entire people being 
 with the spectacle, the bill was rejected. 
 
To "'Afric's Sunny Fountains." 8i 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 To "Afric's Sunny Fountains." 
 
 Voyage to Tangier — Views along the Route — Arrival — Street Scenes — A 
 
 Moorish School. 
 
 On the afternoon of Christmas we sailed through the Bay of 
 Malaga into the Mediterranean. Our vessel had a truly Afri- 
 can name, the Mogador, named after a part of the city of 
 Morocco. No quieter sea ever reflected a more golden sun- 
 set than did the Mediterranean that evening. But the promise 
 to the eye, like many to the ear, was broken to the heart, for 
 when the day was done the winds began their revels, which 
 soon plunged men, women, and children into one common gulf 
 of nausea and despondency. Through the short, choppy waves 
 the Mogador swiftly pushed, and wretched as we were, it was 
 a pleasure to pass everything that rode the waves that night. 
 A little after ten o'clock the storm subsided, the clouds disap- 
 peared, and the rugged mountains of the African coast stood 
 forth in the starlight like stupendous battlements as we anchored 
 in the harbor of Ceuta. This is the " Botany Bay" of Spain. 
 
 The town, like ancient Rome, stands on seven hills, and its 
 name is said to be a corruption of scptcvi. The ancients 
 called it Abyla, and one of its mountains formed one of the 
 Pillars of Hercules. The numerous fortifications on adjacent 
 hills, and the towering masses of mountains, were startling 
 exhibitions of power. 
 
 The next day we sailed over the same route which the 
 Moors took when they set forth to conquer Spain, and an- 
 chored in the harbor of Algeciras, the point at which they 
 landed. It was in this harbor that we obtained our first view 
 of the Rock of Gibraltar. After a brief stay at this place, of 
 no importance now, though once the Moor's key to Spain, 
 and the scene of the greatest crusade of the fourteenth cen- 
 tury, we resumed our course through the Straits of Gibraltar. 
 Gibraltar, with its forts, its town, and the harbor filled with ship- 
 
82 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 ping, was in full view; across was the entire line of the northwest 
 coast of Africa, its hills and mountains covered with vegetation. 
 
 Sailing close to Spain, we soon sighted Cape Trafalgar's 
 low, sandy shore, scene of one of the greatest of naval en- 
 counters. After we had buffeted the waves in a violent storm 
 for a long time, the Bay of Tangier came into view, forming 
 an amphitheater about three miles wide, to which the shores 
 correspond, the city rising on the slopes of hills. From the 
 deck northward we saw the citadel, and southward the white 
 houses of the town. Formerly there was no pier, and it 
 was impossible for vessels to land passengers; but such was 
 the bigotry of the people that the Mohammedans would not 
 carry a Christian, and passengers were taken to the shore on 
 the backs of Jews. We had heard of the pier, and supposed 
 that we should land as at a European port, but it had been 
 broken by the preceding storms, and we were compelled to 
 take the boats. Many more Moors clambered up the ship's 
 side than there were passengers, and wrangling about the prices 
 was fierce. Ingratiating ourselves with the health officer, who 
 spoke English, we ascertained the fixed rate, and sharing his 
 boat, had no trouble in the settlement. 
 
 The harbor, notwithstanding the fast increasing darkness, 
 was beautiful, and the domes and minarets of the mosques on 
 the hillsides, so unlike the towers and steeples of Christian 
 churches, would have been sufficient, had we drifted instead of 
 steered into the harbor, to show that we were landing upon 
 an unknown shore. Once upon terra firma, we- were led through 
 a long, dark, narrow alley, as weird an entrance as stranger ever 
 had. At a turn two solemn-looking, turbaned Moors in white, 
 wearing long beards, and having the aspect of authority, at- 
 tracted our attention. Passport in hand, we were ready to 
 surrender the baggage, when the health officer, knowing that 
 we were Americans, informed them that we had nothing duti- 
 able, whereupon they gravely bowed and we passed on. The 
 alley led to a street not much wider, but lighter, and in five 
 minutes we entered the hotel. 
 
 Tangier, the capital of a province, and the residence of for- 
 eign ministers and consuls to the Court of Morocco, and fre- 
 quently visited by English, French, and Spanish merchants 
 
"2. 
 
 ■ , ' t i 
 
 
 ,v 
 
 ' >■■ 
 
 5 ^ 
 
To " Afric's Sunny Fountains." 85 
 
 upon business, and by travelers, is provided with two or three 
 excellent hotels, the Continental, where we stayed, surpassing 
 any in Spain. In front of it were scores of Moors, and in the 
 hall perhaps a dozen. Male Moors waited efficiently upon 
 the tables, and were picturesque in their fantastic jellabiyah 
 (dressing gowns), turbans, and sandals; attentive, polite, sur- 
 prisingly noiseless, and rapid. We were hardly in our rooms 
 when a man, who might have posed as the sultan, or as the 
 Caliph Haroun al Raschid, so far as dress and dignified con- 
 descension were concerned, appeared. There was an excess 
 of complacency in his smile, and something of flippancy in his 
 dainty manners as he entered, and when he said, with a smile 
 that exhibited the whitest of teeth, and was suggestive of great 
 expectations, "I am ze commissionaire of ze hotel," we saw 
 that this august being was willing for the sum of two dollars 
 per day to conduct us through such portions of the empire of 
 Morocco as we might elect. We did not employ him, as his 
 time and ours could not be made to agree. But guides were 
 numerous, and in due time we sallied forth into the streets, 
 through which no carriage can pass, so narrow are they, and so 
 crowded. Jews, Negroes, Moors, women with their faces cov- 
 ered, country people with peculiar dresses, donkeys, mules, and 
 water carriers, swarming together, gave the appearance of a 
 dense crowd, and one paused at almost every step to consider 
 whether he could make his way. 
 
 A traveler says of the crowd: "They were all oppressed by 
 an immense sadness or a mortal weariness, none smiling, but 
 moving one behind the other with slow and silent steps, like a 
 procession of specters in a cemetery." This is a misrepre- 
 sentation. The street crowds in Tangier are grave, but many 
 smile and gesticulate like Italians or Frenchmen; and as for 
 their moving with slow and silent steps, they are among the 
 most rapid walkers in the world. As they transact business in 
 the street, they crouch against the walls in front of the shops, 
 and the poorer classes crowd against the sides of the narrow 
 lanes; being dressed in white, the color of the walls, they pass 
 almost unobserved, and have a spectral look. 
 
 The streets are not only narrow, but crooked and dirty, all 
 the ordinary rubbish being left there. The houses have no 
 
86 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 windows. Most of the shops are mere holes in the wall, 
 receiving all light and air through the front door, which is 
 entirely open. The interior of the lawyers' offices can be 
 seen plainly from the street, and we beheld ancient men por- 
 ing over documents, and others writing as slowly as children 
 with their first copies. Of the larger shops one can have no 
 idea from the entrance. We were conducted to one of the 
 best for the purchase of antiquities. Entering by a small door 
 we passed through a room not much larger than a closet, 
 then through another, and after climbing a narrow stairway, 
 found that the display rooms were three or four in number, 
 and contained thousands of curious objects. The Moors are 
 sharp and shrewd at a bargain. They consider the European, 
 and especially the traveler, a legitimate object of prey. One 
 who continued to show his goods long after we had told him 
 that we did not desire to buy, said in broken English: "We 
 want to taste your money to see if it is sweet." When we 
 persisted in refusing he lost his temper, and told us to "keep 
 our money in our own bowels." In general, as they hope for 
 another visit, they are polite to the last. 
 
 In a Moorish school the children sit on the floor, the teacher, 
 generally an old man of venerable aspect, sitting in the midst 
 of them, crosslegged. The Prophet thought that a knowl- 
 edge of the Koran was knowledge enough for a believer, and 
 this the children have to commit to memory. I visited such a 
 school in Tangier. The old teacher, with a long stick, was com- 
 pelling the children to repeat aloud passages from the Koran. 
 If they did not do it correctly, he rebuked; if they were inat- 
 tentive, he beat them. Whatever may be said of corporal pun- 
 ishment in its moral aspects, that it compels attention there 
 is no doubt; for when that stick descended the laugh of the 
 young Mussulman was changed into a wail, and with tremen- 
 dous energy he began to repeat the sacred words. As the whole 
 school talks aloud, continually swaying backward and forward 
 — a thing believed by them to be beneficial to the memory — the 
 hubbub was prodigious; but what was unintelligible to us was 
 not so to the teacher, and from the amount which the children 
 recited the plan seemed successful. 
 
The Eye of Africa. 89 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 The Eye of Africa. 
 
 The Great Market — Caravan — Distinctions Indicated by Dress — Slavery, Past 
 and Present — The Prison — Coffee House — Suburbs. 
 
 The great market at Tangier on Sunday or Thursday is in- 
 describable, but explains itself to the eye. All around the 
 square are shops. In the center, covering several acres, 
 thousands of persons buying and selling; donkeys and camels 
 laden with country produce and manufactured articles are 
 continually arriving and departing; enveloped in their peculiar 
 cloaks or hoods, in groups of five, eight, or teii, hundreds of 
 women are squatting upon the ground; stalwart Negroes, 
 tall Mussulmans, and Berbers mingling with hundreds of 
 Moors; and here and there a snake charmer, conjuror, and 
 story-teller, each with his audience as in the time of the 
 Thousand-and-one Nights' Entertainment. 
 
 Tents are being erected, coffee is being pounded (they do 
 not grind it in Morocco), and everything which the earth pro- 
 duces or the people manufacture is exposed for sale. Heavy 
 rains had covered the ground with a layer of mud and 
 water, but neither men nor women appeared to care, walking- 
 through it barefoot, sitting down in it. The gravity of the 
 Moors when not in action gives place when they engage in bar- 
 gaining, or meet their friends in the markets, to animated con- 
 versation, with graceful and sometimes violent gesticulation. 
 
 The beautiful bronze handwork, for which the Moors are 
 famous, we saw in process of manufacture in the shops; also 
 looked into some of the factories where is made Morocco 
 leather, the only real native industry. 
 
 A huge caravan expected was delayed by the storm. These 
 
 are movable markets, carrying into the interior of Africa many 
 
 merchantable articles, taking up, as they cross the desert, loads 
 
 of salt, which, with the other commodities, they exchange in 
 
 6 
 
9° 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 the Soudan for gold dust, ostrich feathers, and, even to this 
 day, slaves for Morocco. 
 
 Distinctions existing among the Moors are indicated by the 
 dress. It is c^uite an art, in which we took the first lessons 
 here, to comprehend them. Beggars were not as numerous 
 as in Spain, but there were enough, many being blind, to 
 
 Snake Charmer. 
 
 throw a gloomy aspect over the streets. One traveler says 
 that he had not seen among the Arabs a hunchback, or a lame 
 man, or a man with the rickets, but many without a nose and 
 without an eye, one or both. We saw all of these, but the 
 number of them was small in comparison with the blind. 
 
 Many of the common people went about barefooted and 
 
The Eye of Africa. 91 
 
 barelegged. Some wore sandals, which slipped up and down 
 at the heel. The feet of many of both sexes were covered 
 with corns and bunions. The absence of women of the better 
 classes was noticeable ; the few who did appear were covered 
 to the eyes, according to the Mohammedan custom. Only the 
 very poor or the abandoned appear in public with faces un- 
 covered. Some ladies staying at the hotel found no difficulty 
 in visiting the harem of the sultan, and gave us interesting 
 descriptions of what they saw. Of course where the face of no 
 male Moslem other than the owner could be seen, "a Christian 
 dog " could not be allowed. 
 
 Till within a few years there was a slave market in Tangier; 
 through the influence of foreign governments this has been 
 abolished. We visited the site, but had little to say consider- 
 ing how short a time it was since similar auction blocks for 
 the sale of human beings existed in our own land. "We were 
 told that slaves are still sold in the interior, and that they are 
 dealt in privately even in Tangier. Indeed, one of the resi- 
 dents pointed out a Jew riding on a donkey followed by a 
 Negro, and said that the Negro was the Jew's slave. Another 
 denied this, affirming that a Jew was not allowed to hold a 
 Mohammedan in slavery, and that Negroes were all of that 
 faith. I conclude that slaves are still held by the Moors of 
 that city, but only as domestics. Nearly one third of the 
 population of Tangier consists of Jews. They w-ear a peculiar 
 dress and are despised, but have their revenge by making 
 money constantly out of their persecutors. The Jewish 
 women are so handsome that now, as in the time of Esther, 
 they are sometimes the means of protecting the men from their 
 oppressors. 
 
 Nothing more horrible than the prison at Tangier can be 
 conceived. It is divided into two parts, one for the criminal 
 inhabitants of the city, and the other for those of the province 
 of which Tangier is the capital. Prisoners are not allowed 
 beds, are placed in one large hall, the more desperate being 
 heavily ironed. A huge wooden door, having an aperture nme 
 inches in diameter, is the means of entrance and exit, and be- 
 fore it sit two aged men. Around stand numbers of Moorish 
 soldiers acting as guards, ^^'e looked through the aperture 
 
92 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 and saw hundreds of forms in every stage of filth, some look- 
 ing desperate and defiant, old men striding across the floor 
 with heavy irons attached to their feet, no conversation, not a 
 smile. Some had the stony stare of despair, others the ex- 
 pressionless eye of idiocy. The stench was intolerable. 
 
 While we were gazing a man rushed to the hole and thrust 
 his head up. I saw in an instant that he was a maniac. He 
 declaimed to us for the space of five minutes, and one of the 
 guards said: " He is mad. . He is telling you that his father 
 died, and he and his brothers disputed about the prop- 
 erty, and they tried to rob him of his share, and when he re- 
 sisted they put him in here, and he has been here two months, 
 and he wants you to see that his cause is looked into." 
 
 While he was raving, faces behind his were grinning hid- 
 eously at his demonstrations. Let the artist who wishes to 
 paint a picture of hell go to Tangier and look through those 
 openings. The women's department contained only two per- 
 sons, who were in charge of an enormous Negress, weighing 
 not less than three hundred pounds. As we were leaving a 
 curious scene happened. A horse was fastened in the center 
 of the square. One of our animals kicked it as he was being 
 led past, and in an instant a hundred Moors appeared, who 
 ran to and fro vociferating and gesticulating. Great was the 
 excitement. A gigantic fellow felt it his duty to chastise our 
 horse, but when he saw us smiling at his vehemence, he smiled 
 also and retreated. This trivial scene showed the Arabs in a 
 light very different from any aspect of their character pre- 
 viously exhibited. 
 
 One evening we visited a coffee house to hear the music. 
 Ten or fifteen Moors, picturesquely dressed, squatting on the 
 floor, played upon tambourines, rude dulcimers, and other 
 stringed instruments, and sang monotonous airs. No charge 
 was made for admission, but visitors were expected to buy 
 coffee. The Arabs make their coffee without straining, and 
 boil the sugar with it. It is thick and of a sickish taste, but 
 old residents say that after one has learned to like it, no other 
 preparation will please him. Late in the evening we took a 
 long walk through the narrow streets in an unearthly dark- 
 ness and silence; Arabs were standing asleep; in the niches 
 
The Eve of Africa. 93 
 
 of the walls; others were rolled up in round balls; now and 
 then a figure passed out of an alley and into a door; occa- 
 sionally a sound of music floated upon the air, apparently 
 afar off, but really close at hand within gloomy and narrow- 
 corridors; once in a great while we passed a single shop open, 
 with one person seated within, but saw no light in any dwell- 
 ing house. But for these exceptions, one might have believed 
 himself wandering in an utterly deserted town. 
 
 The suburbs of Tangier are charming, sea and land views 
 rivaling each other in beauty and variety. Mounted upon 
 steady going mules, we rode eight miles upon the road to Fez, 
 the capital, visiting the villages and orange groves. During 
 our ride hundreds of men and women, returning from the great 
 market to their villages, passed us, all walking at the rate of 
 about four miles an hour. Even the aged walked rapidly. 
 They stared at us without hostility, but without any sign of 
 recognition, and were always willing to give information as 
 to the route. In the city the women and children sometimes 
 mutter and otherwise express their contempt and hatred for 
 Christians. In that climate, the most delightful in the world, 
 the temperature being in winter from fifty to sixty-four, and 
 rarely rising above eighty-two in summer, they need no fire, 
 and live most of the time in the open air. Their houses, 
 made of mud stiffened with straw, though without windows, 
 are comfortable enough. Lovely were the orange groves, 
 interlined with roses in full bloom; exquisite the fruit, the 
 sweetest and juiciest imaginable. 
 
 No drunkenness was visible in Tangier. The religion of 
 the people forbids it. They are addicted to smoking Cannabis 
 Indica, or Indian hemp, the powerful drug from which hasheesh 
 is obtained, and tobacco. Though the sultan has forbidden 
 the use of both, they are used secretly. 
 
94 Travels in Three Continents, 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Condition and Outlook of Morocco. 
 
 Difficulty of Obtaining Information — Government — The Sultan — Moham- 
 medanism in Morocco — Decadence and Probable Fate of die Nation. 
 
 In no country have I had more difficulty in ascertaining 
 what I wished to know than in Morocco. An English gentle- 
 man who has transacted business with Moorish merchants for 
 more than twenty years told me that upon no question relating 
 to the administration of the government or to peculiar religious, 
 social, or political Moorish questions would they say anything, 
 though free to converse upon other subjects. He also said 
 that nine tenths of what he read in the English papers about 
 Morocco he knew to be false or distorted. About the time 
 that we were there the London papers published a sensational 
 account of the execution of two men by decapitation, in which 
 the executioner is represented as sawing away for a long time 
 with a dull knife, and then asking for another, crying out: 
 "Give me another knife; mine doesn't cut." The circum- 
 stances and language were given in detail. A short time 
 afterward the Morocco Times, published in Tangier, proved 
 conclusively that what was alleged took place many years ago. 
 What is here stated of the peculiarities and prospects of the 
 country is either known by me or believed on the best informa- 
 tion obtainable. 
 
 The government of Morocco is an absolute despotism. 
 The emperor, or sultan, claims descent from Mohammed, and 
 he belongs to the class Ashraf. He retains his court alter- 
 nately in the three cities of Morocco, Fez, and Mequinez. 
 The Mohammedan population believe him the lawful caliph, 
 the spiritual chief of Islam. Notwithstanding his abso- 
 lute character the mountain chiefs in the Atlas range defy 
 him, and live in virtual independence of the government. 
 Joseph Thompson, the explorer, arrived in London in Novem- 
 ber, 1888, and read an essay before the Royal Geographical 
 
o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 •~t 
 3 
 CD 
 
Condition and Outlook of Morocco. 97 
 
 Society describing the utter inability of tlie sultan to protect 
 him in the interior. He stated that a large part of the Atlas 
 Mountain regions is as entirely unknown and unexplored as 
 the interior of Africa. It has been only seven years since 
 Dr. Foucauld made the first survey of those mountains, travel- 
 ing in the guise of a Jew. Sir Joseph Hooker had done con- 
 siderable for geography and botany, but it was not till this 
 vear that Mr. Thompson could obtain a passport from Sultan 
 Muley Hassan, and that was strictly limited. I quote from 
 his paper: "Though almost in touch with Europe, many parts 
 of Morocco still remain as completely unexplored as many 
 districts in the heart of Africa." ]\Ir. Thompson and his com- 
 panions being at Marakesh, and desiring to witness certain 
 festivities, presented their credentials from the sultan and 
 asked the governor for two soldiers to be placed at their dis- 
 posal. As a reply they received an arbitrary order to remain 
 indoors for the whole of that day. They went out alone, rely- 
 ing upon the letter of the sultan, but were mobbed and grossly 
 insulted. Not long afterward a French explorer was treated 
 in the same manner. 
 
 Within forty hours' mule ride of Tangier — that is, about one 
 hundred and fifty miles — is a place called Sheshouan, where, 
 until a year ago, only one Christian is supposed ever to have 
 been. Blachd'ooiV s Magazine for December, 1888, contained 
 an account of the adventures of Mr. Walter Harris in reaching 
 that point, showing that numbers of the tribes and the inhabit- 
 ants are as independent of the sultan, as lawless, fanatical, 
 and murderous as any people whom Stanley has encountered. 
 The Beni Hassan men are of all the most quarrelsome and 
 thievish, divided into professional branches, as the corn, cattle, 
 horse, or street thief. When the Italian embassy passed 
 through that country on the way to the capital, after the 
 governor had accompanied it a distance of about two miles, 
 he asked leave to return, and when the Italian embassador de- 
 manded why, he answered: "Because my own house is not 
 secure." 
 
 The government, being absolute so far as it goes, is corrupt. 
 No rich Moor dares to reveal the fact that he has much money. 
 Agricultural systems have not been improved; exportation is 
 
98 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 discouraged; the rules of commerce are antiquated, and taxa- 
 tion is an organized system of extortion. In the courts no 
 Christian's word or oath is taken; hence in 1880, at the con- 
 vention of Madrid, the protection system was introduced. 
 Fourteen nations are represented by diplomatic representatives. 
 Each holds its court in every town for the trial of cases in 
 which its citizens are involved, except that in three instances 
 the same consul acts for more than one nation. In the leea- 
 tions the privilege is practically absolute. Employees of 
 embassadors cannot be tried in any court of Morocco without 
 due notice being given to their superiors. Foreigners engaged 
 in commerce have protection, and are allowed two protected 
 native agents, called Sewsars, and the contracting powers may 
 select twelve natives to be protected. While this peculiar 
 system settles some difificulties, a great many abuses have 
 grown up under it. The Moors, ever ready to bribe, find for- 
 eigners equally ready to be bribed, and endeavor to circum- 
 vent both the government of the sultan and the operation of 
 the protection. 
 
 The principle upon which taxation is levied in Morocco is to 
 pounce upon an}' unprotected citizen and make an arbitrar)' 
 assessment. If he dresses better than others, educates his 
 children, or builds a fine house, he is considered lawful prey. 
 
 Little can be learned of the proceedings of the sultan. At 
 the time we were there contradictory reports about his health 
 were afioat. Some said he would soon come down to the sea, 
 others that he was too feeble to mount a horse, others that he 
 was staying away for political reasons; but the last person to 
 ask information from was any influential officer or Arab. Sul- 
 tans in Morocco are elected, but it is necessary that they 
 should be descendants of the Prophet Mohammed. As there 
 are two lines, the Aliweein, to which the present sultan be- 
 longs, and Drissian, and as he may be selected from either 
 line, peculiar developments often result. ^Vhen the last sultan 
 died there was a difference of opinion whether Muley Hassan, 
 the present sultan, or Muley Abbas, the brother of the late 
 sovereign, was preferable. Muley Hassan had the majority, 
 and his uncle attempted to retreat into obscurity, but Muley 
 Hassan "sent word to his uncle that he desired no family 
 
Condition and Outlook of Morocco. 99 
 
 scandal, and as his speedy death was a state necessity he 
 would perhaps arrange for it in any way which suited him 
 best." Muley Abbas chose to drink himself to death, which 
 took place in about three months. There was another uncle, 
 Muley Ali. He was killed because some partisan cried out in 
 the mosque: " May Allah render Muley Ali ever victorious! " 
 The sultan presented him with a sum of money and a female 
 slave, whom etiquette forced him to marry. Soon after "the 
 beautiful slave prostrated herself before the sultan, and, with 
 loud wailings, announced that the Angel of Death had unex- 
 pectedly smitten Ali in the night, so that she found him dead 
 that very morning." Another relative, Muley Dris, was sent 
 to quell a rebellion, but before the scene of battle was reached 
 the tent pole fell and killed him. This left the present sultan 
 in undisputed control. 
 
 Tangier, though so near Europe, is far from it in every par- 
 ticular. The Mohammedans are very superstitious, seek to 
 escape the sterner requisitions imposed upon them by the 
 Prophet, to enlarge their liberties in moral directions, and 
 make up for it by intensifying their fanaticism and obstinate 
 adherence to ceremonies. They display none of the qualities 
 which gave their ancestors a glorious place in history. Of 
 science they know nothing. Their own language is deteri- 
 orating because of indolence, and inherited institutions are 
 crumbling. With a perfect climate and the most productive 
 soil, they raise no more than necessity requires. To look 
 at their plows carries the observer back several thousand 
 years, and instead of the thrashin.g machines now used by civil- 
 ized nations, or even the flail which our ancestors employed a 
 short time ago, the wheat is separated from the chaff by mak- 
 ing the animals tread over the grain which is thrown into the 
 air with shovels. In trade the Moors cannot succeed except 
 by borrowing money from the Jews, though they are the de- 
 scendants of the men who formed an empire rivaling the glory 
 of the best days of England, a power which made all Europe 
 tremble, which led in learning, established universities, main- 
 tained great fleets, and made its prowess felt at "Vienna, 
 Venice, and Warsaw." 
 
 During my travels in Spain, not the achievements of the 
 
loo Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Christians, nor the scenery of the country, was the most im- 
 pressive, but the ruins of the glory of the Moors. No more 
 gloomy instance of the decadence of a nation can be found in 
 modern history. 
 
 Tangier, it is said, is the eye of Africa looking into Europe, 
 and the eye of Europe looking into Africa is Gibraltar; but 
 Gibraltar is the glass in the hand of England, used at some- 
 what long range, it is true, but the arm of England has always 
 been very long in proportion to its body, and its hand has 
 never yet been too small to grasp what its interests required. 
 Should the present sultan die, and the country fall into a 
 state of discord, it would not be surprising to see England, 
 under cover of protecting the property and lives of the 
 British residents of Morocco, go down upon the scene and 
 produce complications which would result in adding Morocco 
 to her empire. That this would contribute to the civilization 
 , of the people there can be little doubt; what other Powers 
 would do about it is a difficult problem. One thing is certain, 
 that Tangier would be worth much more to England than 
 Gibraltar can ever be for the purpose of preventing hostile 
 vessels from passing in or out of the Mediterranean. 
 

 '1 
 
 n 
 o 
 
Gibraltar. 103 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Gibraltar. 
 
 Landing — Steamer Flying American Flag — Long Service of the Hon. Horatio 
 J. Sprague — Famous Visitors to Gihraltar — Population — Military Aspect — 
 Curious Spectacles — Markets — Tailless Monkeys. 
 
 A ROCK, unique in form and place, sublime, impressive as 
 a center of historic movements, marking the confines of the 
 ancient world, and for more than one hundred and eight}' 
 years an impregnable fortress and monument of the greatness 
 of that nation whose vast possessions in every continent, as 
 well as its unquestioned supremacy upon the sea, have made 
 it for centuries the most influential power on the globe; this 
 is Gibraltar. As we approached by sea it was enshrouded in 
 mists, and barely discernible; but the vapors dispersed, and 
 the stupendous mass, rising to a perpendicular height of 
 fourteen hundred and thirty feet, came into view with a sud- 
 denness which produced the effect of a moving object, in 
 comparison with which our vessel seemed a speck. 
 
 A writer has compared the rock to a "gigantic granite 
 sphinx, with long, broad, loose, flowing, and undulating out- 
 lines, like those of a lion asleep, and whose head, somewhat 
 truncated, is turned toward Africa, as if with a dreamy stead- 
 fast, deep attention." It is three miles long, of irregular width, 
 six miles in circumference, rising from the ocean and from a 
 level plain scarcely five feet above the sea, at the head of the 
 Straits of Gibraltar. These straits are about forty miles long. 
 Beyond them at the west, is the Atlantic; and at the east the 
 Mediterranean. Landings are extremely difficult, and we de- 
 scended from the vessel into a rowboat which conveyed us 
 to the shore outside the gates. The gates are shut at sun- 
 down and not opened until sunrise, a gun from the fortress giv- 
 ing the signal. As the time of sunset changes, notice of the 
 hour of closing is each day placed upon the outer gates. 
 After this there is no admittance without special permission. 
 
I04 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 not easily secured. The first thing on landing was to secure 
 a permit to enter, which was valid only for that afternoon. 
 Having stated how long we intended to remain, a genei"al per- 
 mission to stay and to pass through the gates during the hours 
 of the day was issued without charge. Formerly it was neces- 
 sary for foreigners to exhibit their passports. 
 
 While upon the steamer the harbor, a scene of beauty, was 
 stretched out before us, all the more attractive to the eye than 
 it otherwise would be, because not being well protected and of 
 variable depth the shipping could not be crowded, and so resem- 
 bled huge swans at rest upon the waves. To us the most at- 
 tractive object was a steamship flying the American flag, a rare 
 spectacle in the harbors of Europe. It was one of our naval ves- 
 sels, the Entei-prise, an old wooden ship, belonging to the fleet 
 kept cruising in the various waters of Europe to protect Ameri- 
 can interests, and to give the officers the opportunity of learning 
 what is going on in the naval world. This fleet is so managed 
 as to make the positions of the officers a prolonged and luxu- 
 rious excursion to the finest ports and watering places of the 
 Continent and adjacent islands. The Enterprise had just re- 
 turned from a summer cruise in the vicinity of Norway, Sweden, 
 and St. Petersburg, and after staying a few weeks at Gibraltar, 
 was expected to repair to Villa Franca, near Nice, within a few 
 minutes' ride of Monte Carlo, there to spend the rest of the 
 winter. With such a naval armament as the United States 
 possesses, were it not for the three thousand miles of stormy 
 sea that roll between the Old and New Worlds, we should be 
 beneath the contempt of the humblest maritime nation of 
 Europe. 
 
 The elevation of the Rock of Gibraltar is so great that the 
 town built upon its sides looks, at a short distance, much 
 more like a painting than an actual assemblage of houses. 
 They rise in steep terraces, and the direct approach to various 
 streets is by stone steps. 
 
 I found my knowledge of Gibraltar far too vague and gen- 
 eral to be satisfactory, and determined to expend upon read- 
 ing and exploration time and toil sufficient to leave a vivid 
 and symmetrical impression of its relations to civilization in 
 Europe and Africa. In addition to the study of various 
 
Gibraltar. 105 
 
 works, I derived valuable assistance from the Hon. Horatio J. 
 Sprague, American consul at Gibraltar. He had occupied 
 that position for forty-one years; his father filled it before 
 him, and he was born upon the rock. His knowledge is 
 extraordinary, and ,he introduced us to the public library in 
 whose rooms are the leading papers and periodicals of Eu- 
 rope, and more than forty thousand volumes. Mr. Sprague 
 had translated from Spanish into English, and 1-oaned to me, a 
 noted work on Cxibraltar by a Spanish author, Don Francisco 
 Maria Montero. This translation, as yet unpublished, com- 
 prises six hundred pages of manuscript, and abounds with 
 details not to be elsewhere obtained. Our consular service, 
 subject to the mutations of political parties, has been so often 
 changed that a traveler cannot be certain on a second visit of 
 finding the representative whose acquaintance he made on the 
 first. But Mr. Sprague, who received his first appointment 
 from James K. Polk, has not been disturbed through all the 
 admmistrations, includuig the period of the civil war. At 
 every pomt visited before reaching Gibraltar, I was advised to 
 call upon Mr. Sprague, and, having personal letters, was re- 
 ceived with a hospitality which has never been surpassed in 
 my experience. His wife had been removed by death within 
 a few years; but the venerable consul is fortunate in the pos- 
 session of sons and daughters who fill the mansion, which 
 his private means enable him to maintain, with the atmosphere 
 of youth and the charms of genuine refinement, the result of 
 their education in France and association with distinguished 
 visitors who, from their childhood, have sat at the table of 
 their parents. Three ex-presidents have been the guests of 
 Mr. Sprague — Franklin Pierce, Millard Fillmore, and Ulysses 
 S. Grant; the railway magnates Vanderbilt and Gould, hun- 
 dreds of travelers, merchants, students, authors, and artists. 
 Nor is his hospitality confined to persons of note, but, as we 
 learned — not from himself, but by general inquiries in Gibral- 
 tar — the humblest sailor, or the poorest wanderer overtaken 
 bv misfortune, receives the attention which his circumstances 
 require. 
 
 Gibraltar contains twenty-five thousand inhabitants, of whom 
 seven thousand are English soldiers; indeed, more than three 
 
io6 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 quarters of the entire population are connected with the garri- 
 son and military and other establishments of Great Britain. 
 Many of the people were born on the rock; those who were 
 not, among the commoner sort, apply to the natives the nick- 
 name of "scorpions." This is generally taken in good humor, 
 and one citizen responded to our question concerning his birth- 
 place, that he was a "scorpion." 
 
 Red-coated soldiers are seen constantly marching through 
 the town; but when off duty they fill the cafSs, pass in and 
 out of liquor saloons, and are walking and standing in the 
 streets and parks, lending a picturesque aspect to the place by 
 the brightness of their uniforms and their erect, proud bear- 
 ing; for among all the soldiers we have seen in Europe, none 
 keep step so well or seem personally so proud as those of Eng- 
 land. Whitewashed barracks are in different parts of the 
 limited portions of Gibraltar suitable for building purposes, so 
 that wherever one wanders he is likely to meet soldiers. The 
 parade ground is at the entrance of the Alameda. There the 
 regimental bands play, in the evening, and the music being 
 fine, the people resort to this magnificent garden, which is laid 
 out in the English style and filled with trees and flowers. 
 Elevated above the water, its background the stern face of 
 the rock, it affords a view of the bay, the shipping, the bar- 
 racks, the town, the opposite coast of Spain, and the bound- 
 less expanse of waters to the westward; and is itself an en- 
 chanting prospect when seen from the deck of a vessel. 
 
 The general trade of Gibraltar has declined, but in recent 
 years it has come into importance as a coaling station. In 
 1886 four thousand seven hundred and six steamers entered 
 the port, with an average tonnage of about a thousand. In 
 18S7 a half million tons of coal were sold to them. As the 
 coal is all brought over in ships, the harbor presents a lively 
 and peculiar appearance. In every direction steamers are 
 seen moored by the side of immense hulks loaded with coal. 
 In the month preceding our visit four hundred and ninety-four 
 steamers had touched at the port. 
 
 While few private gardens exist at Gibraltar, many plants 
 common to the south of Europe, others to the north of Africa, 
 some to Asia, and a few indigenous to the rock grow there, 
 
GlRRALTAR. I07 
 
 and vegetation appears on the naked summits, and in the in- 
 terstices of the rock which was once covered with forests. 
 
 Little necessary to support human life is produced in Gibral- 
 tar, so that the markets are of vital importance. Fruits and 
 vegetables come from Spain and Africa; beef chiefly from 
 Barbary. We passed through the Moorish market, which is 
 devoted principally to poultry, and on entering were greeted 
 by the Moors with signs of interest; but as soon as they dis- 
 covered that we wanted none of their fowls they left us 
 with a grunt similar to that uttered by an American Indian. 
 In the general market were displayed all the fruits with which 
 we are familiar at home, and many others; among them fine 
 apples. The salesman, perceiving us, called out in as good 
 English as he could command: "Apples! fine apples." As 
 we passed on he exclaimed: '■'■ American apples!" This was 
 simply the compliment paid all through Europe to American 
 apples. We have seen in France and Spain apples more beauti- 
 ful and symmetrical in shape than are often found in America, 
 so finely polished and of such peculiar form that one would 
 suspect that they were wax; but in flavor and juiciness they 
 were far below any of a score of varieties which can be found 
 distributed through New England and the Middle States. 
 
 In these markets the most curious spectacle is the crowd: 
 "Moors, Turks, Greeks, Jews, the Spanish smuggler, the 
 Catalan seller, the red coat of the English private, mingled 
 together, bawling, disputing, bargaining, and cheating in their 
 different tongues, ways, and gestures." A large number of 
 Maltese have recently settled in Gibraltar, and are a some- 
 what disorderly and dangerous element. When in Malta, 
 which is under British control and discipline, they are orderly 
 enough, but away from that point their fiery, daring, and re- 
 vengeful disposition shows itself. They mingle with the mot- 
 ley crowd in the markets, and add to the noise and confusion 
 of tongues. 
 
 In the Alameda, which is the fashionable promenade, the 
 contrast of populations is equally striking. One sees London 
 bonnets and Paris hats side by side with the mantilla dc tiro; 
 ladies with blue eyes and rosy complexions next to those hav- 
 ing melting black orbs and olive skins. The differences in 
 
io8 Travels in Three Coxtinexts. 
 
 manner, toilet, and language noted, as we traversed the streets, 
 markets, and public places, furnished us constant amusement. 
 
 Among the animals native to the rock are hares and rabbits. 
 Monkeys of extraordinary size still exist in the inaccessible 
 fastnesses. They have no tails, and are harmless, but fre- 
 quently come down and rob the gardens. They live on the 
 roots of the palmettos and the fruits of the prickly pear. They 
 are of a species to be found in northern Africa, and there has 
 been much speculation whether they originally existed in 
 Gibraltar or were brought in by the Arabs. Those who hold 
 that the rock was once connected with Africa draw an argu= 
 ment for that view from the existence of these Barbary apes 
 on Gibraltar. Montero thinks either supposition possible. 
 Andalusia was the Tarshish of the old times, and these are the 
 descendants of the apes for which Solomon sent, as described 
 in I Kings x, 22: " For the king had at sea a navy of Tarshish 
 with the navy of Hiram: once in three years came the navy of 
 Tarshish bringing gold, and silver, ivory, and apes, and pea- 
 cocks." A native of Gibraltar told us that no dead body or 
 skeleton of any of these apes has been found. AVhether these 
 manlike animals conceal them in caves, or throw them into the 
 ocean, none can tell. 
 
 Of public buildings there are in Gibraltar none of importance. 
 A thousand towns in Europe have more to exhibit in the way 
 of architecture, monuments, and other works of art. Had the 
 English cathedral been intended as a burlesque of some form 
 of architecture it would be counted a successful attempt. 
 Presbyterians, Wesleyans, and other dissenting bodies have 
 chapels, and there is a Roman Catholic church, a structure 
 which, without saying much for it, can be represented as the 
 most attractive public building in Gibraltar. 
 
GlUKALTAR. log 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Gibraltar. — (Continued.) 
 
 Geological Formation — History — Tour of Exploration— View from the High- 
 est Point— Gibraltar Compared with the North Cape— Power of England. 
 
 Geologists describe the rock as composed of compact lime- 
 stone, varied by beds of red sandstone, and fissures of bony- 
 breccia, resembling what is found in the limestpne rocks of 
 Nice, Pisa, and Dalmatia. In this they discover fossils, such 
 as bones of antelope, deer, tigers, rabbits, rats, birds, shells. 
 Fossil shellfish are found "with both valves adhering," from 
 which it is concluded that the aniinals must have been alive at 
 the time of the upheaval. 
 
 A convincing evidence of the catastrophic character of the 
 formation is the existence of a marine beach nearly five hun- 
 dred feet above the level of the sea. Some maintain that the 
 rock was formed by four shocks. In the first was elevated the 
 highest part, chiefly the northern crests; in the second, the mid- 
 dle or western declivities; and in the third and fourth, the crests 
 at the southern point. All, so far as I can ascertain, agree that 
 no general change has taken place in the historic period. The 
 rock is so steep as to afford the best opportunities for study- 
 ing its geology, as the strata, almost from sea level to summit, 
 can be distinguished without the trouble of excavation. 
 
 As it rises from a flat surface, and there is no hill fifty feet 
 high within several miles of it, Gibraltar presents an imposing, 
 and, from some points of view, an appalling aspect. The 
 Phoenicians either believed that this was the end of the world, 
 or were determined to make others believe it, so that they 
 could maintain a monopoly of the commerce of the region. 
 The Pillars of Hercules are thought to have been Calpe, the 
 Greek name for Gibraltar, and Abyla, a mountain opposite to 
 it in Africa. It is supposed that with all their enterprise and 
 curiosity, the Romans never went beyond the Pillars of Her- 
 cules until the time of Augustus. In ancient times no human 
 
iio Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 beings lived upon the rock, which was the dwelling place of 
 apes, wolves, and other wild animals. It derived its name 
 from Gebal Tarik, who landed there April 7, 711. Fortified 
 and held by the Moors until 1309; captured by Spain; twenty- 
 seven years afterward reconquered by the Moors; held for 
 one hundred and twenty-nine years; wrested from them once 
 more, and finally incorporated with the Spanish crown in 1502, 
 it was retained by Spain for two hundred and two years. 
 
 In the first year of the eighteenth century all western Europe 
 became involved in the war of the Spanish succession. The 
 kinofs of France and Austria claimed the throne left vacant on 
 the death of Charles II without heir. This would include the 
 sovereignty of the Spanish Netherlands, the Milanese, Naples, 
 Sicily, and Italy, and all the vast possessions Spain then held 
 in America. The complications became so numerous through 
 the operations of the King of France, who succeede'd in having 
 his second grandson Philip made king, that Great Britain, Ger- 
 many, and Holland entered into an alliance against France and 
 Spain. It was in the fourth year of that war, on the 24th of 
 July, 1704, that the rock was attacked and captured by an 
 English force, though it was taken in the name of the Aus- 
 trian Duke. At the end of the conflict Gibraltar was given to 
 Great Britain, which did not value the acquisition, and George 
 I was ready to relinquish what was generally thought to be a 
 "barren rock, an insignificant fort, and a useless charge." 
 Spain tried to conquer it soon afterward, but failed. It was 
 again besieged by France in 1779, and in 1780 Spain joined 
 France in a siege lasting four years. An English author, with 
 pardonable pride, speaking of the repulse of the besieging 
 force, says: "It ended in the repulse of the enemy, whose 
 floating batteries, the invention of the ingenious M. D'Arcon, 
 — that could neither be burned, sunk, nor taken — were either 
 burned, sunk, or taken by plain Englishmen, who stood to their 
 guns, on the 13th of September, 1783." 
 
 Our first tour of exploration consisted of a walk of about 
 twelve miles, including the entire western front along the bay, 
 ascending to the summit of A\'indmill Hill, passing around 
 Europa Point to the east side of the rock. It was not possi- 
 ble to accomplish a great distance on the east, as the cliffs are 
 
Gibraltar. hi 
 
 perpendicular, and no fortifications are needed. The ascents, 
 descents, parallel walks, and view from the summit of the light- 
 house which stands on Europa Point, give a series of pros- 
 pects in which the beautiful succeeds the picturesque, rises to 
 the grand, and culminates in the sublime. Europa Point is but 
 five miles north of the most southerly point in the continent of 
 Europe, and is one of two headlands which form the Bay of 
 Gibraltar, the other being Cabrita Point in Spain. The glory 
 of being the most southerly point belongs to Tarifa Point, for- 
 merly an island, but now united to the mainland by a causeway. 
 
 We ascended the lighthouse, and from its summit beheld 
 the African coast before us; on the right the Straits, stretch- 
 ing away to the Atlantic; on the left the Mediterranean, with 
 the mountains of Spain, Tarifa Point, and other headlands on 
 the right; while above us, for more than a thousand feet, 
 towered the rock. The lighthouse is one of the solid structures 
 which the English build. Over its door is this inscription: 
 "Placed by Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain and 
 Ireland, 17 October, 1838." 
 
 Our guide was a native of the rock, who probably had never 
 walked four miles in one day, and a score of times intimated as 
 much to us, saying that the visitors generally rode, and he 
 "could not understand these Americans who always wanted to 
 walk." Yet he had too much courage to flinch, and the next 
 day was boasting of his exploit — as though the tramp of 
 twelve miles was anything more than wholesome exercise. 
 Our next tour was directly up the side of the rock, before a 
 permit to enter the fortifications had been secured. Lured 
 by the charms of the scenery, we proceeded until halted 
 by a sentinel, who ordered us to show a pass. The result of 
 the interview was that we concluded to retrace our steps. 
 While on this tour certain supposed monuments which had at- 
 tracted attention were found to be ventilating shafts for a new 
 system of sewerage, made necessary by the unhealthfulness of 
 the town. The tops of these shafts are five hundred feet 
 above the sea level. 
 
 As for monuments, there are none of any beauty on the 
 rock. One to General Eliot, another to the Duke of Welling- 
 ton, are all that I recall. 
 
112 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 When Mr. Sprague had secured our permit, we began the 
 ascent to examine the fortifications; no slight task, for every 
 point " bristles with defensive works and artillery galleries and 
 batteries hewn in the solid stone." We ascended first to the 
 castle, which dates from 725. It is riddled with shot. The 
 master gunner accompanied us through the galleries, excavated 
 out of the solid rocks, tunneled in tiers, running along the 
 north front, and a mile and a half in length. St. George's 
 Hall is fifty feet by thirty-five; in it Nelson w^xsfticd. 
 
 From St. George's Hall we went to the "Crow's Nest," a 
 ledge pushing out at the extreme north. The six or seven 
 hundred feet of rock above us appeared to culminate in an 
 overhanging cliff. This is one of the illusions common in 
 such situations, and was dissipated when we were informed 
 that there is a considerable slope inward. As we stood look- 
 ing down more than seven hundred feet, the gunner said that 
 the present colonel, who had recently arrived, was unable to 
 walk within ten feet of the edge. Below, the town seemed in 
 miniature, and the vessels in the bay like mere paintings 
 upon the water; the tombs and monuments in the cemetery 
 were reduced to glistening white specks, and pedestrians to 
 midgets. 
 
 From the highest point the outlook is dazzling, entrancing, 
 bewildering. The elements of the panorama are the Straits of 
 Gibraltar, and beyond the coast of Morocco, including the 
 other Pillar of Hercules, with the fortified town of Ceuta ap- 
 parently in its lap; the "Seven Mountains" westward; across 
 the bay the town of Algeciras, and the beaches through which 
 several rivers which rise in the mountains of Ojen and Castel- 
 lar run in a serpentine course to the bay; the fort and the 
 creek filled with vessels; ancient towers along the Spanish 
 shore; villages in the meadows at the foot of the mountains; 
 the coast of the Ivlediterranean, and the whole of that sea as 
 far as the hills that surround Malaga; interlacing mountain 
 ranges, and far in the distance the lofty snow-clad summits of 
 the Sierra Nevada, which " shelters in its folds that delightful 
 and picturesque city [Granada] once the splendid court of the 
 Arabs." 
 
 Gibraltar is the only rival I have seen of the North Cape. 
 
Gibraltar. 
 
 113 
 
 That has the midnight sun; the boundless, unexplored mys- 
 tery of the Arctic Ocean; the silence, solemnity, and severity 
 of an uninhabitable promontory which, though enveloped half 
 the year in a flood of light, is during the other engulfed in an 
 abyss of darkness. But it has no history. It is a type of 
 eternity rather than of time. Gibraltar, equally grand as com- 
 manding a view of two continents, the scene of pivotal con- 
 flicts, and the center of various civilizations, presents to the 
 physical eye a spectacle worthy of comparison with any natural 
 
 Defenses of Gibraltar. 
 
 scene, while the mind's eye beholds the adventurous Phoeni- 
 cians, pioneers of commerce and discovery, followed by the 
 Greeks, the Romans, the Spaniards, the Moors, and the Eng- 
 lish, in irregular but well-defined order, so that the rugged 
 rock is engraven with invisible hieroglyphics, the records of 
 human progress. 
 
 Before our departure we made an excursion on horseback 
 to a mountain in Spain, at a distance of twelve miles, known 
 as the "Queen of Spain's Chair." During the last im- 
 
114 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 portant siege she ascended that mountahi to behold the en- 
 gagement, and declared she would never depart from it until 
 the Spanish flag waved once more over Gibraltar. The road 
 was along the beach, thence through various villages, and 
 finally across unfenced fields to the foot of the mountain, 
 which was about a thousand feet in height. The excursion 
 became somewhat adventurous as the way lay through a region 
 where a number of Spanish cattle were grazing. Some of the 
 bulls looked savage, but contented themselves and us with 
 merely gazing. From the summit another grand prospect, in- 
 cluding the rock itself, a more striking figure than any other 
 was commanded. Thence a long descent took us to the vil- 
 lage of San Roque, and finally, after a ride of eight hours, just 
 before the sundown gun was fired, we passed over the " neutral 
 ground " into the town. 
 
 This neutral ground deserves mention. It is a strip of land 
 dividing the rock from the mainland. A portion belongs to 
 Spain and the rest to England. The English have undermined 
 the whole of their part, and have also made arrangements 
 so that it could instantly be covered with water. At the bor- 
 der a contrast is noticeable between the Spanish and English 
 sentries. The Spanish sentinel is somewhat rhetorically de- 
 scribed (by an Englishman, of course) as the "burnt-up, black- 
 eyed, thin, ill-fed, but picturesque child of the sun, who lazily 
 mounts guard side by side with the fair-haired, blue-eyed, and 
 prosaic son of fog and rain." 
 
 When Gibraltar first fell into the hands of the English the 
 power and uses of steam had not been discovered. Vessels 
 were of wood, and as a constant current flows in from the 
 Atlantic about two miles and a half an hour, they could not 
 get through the channel without a fair wind. Gibraltar then 
 commanded the straits. Now it cannot do so. By no guns 
 yet invented can it prevent ships from passing into the Medi- 
 terranean, or out into the Atlantic. The question thus arises 
 of how much value is it to England, and on this, a practical 
 matter, as it costs the government one million dollars annu- 
 ally, differences of opinion have arisen. Edmund Burke, who 
 spoke before the days of steam, declared it to be a "post of 
 power, post of superiority, of communication, of commerce: 
 
Gibraltar. 
 
 115 
 
 one which makes us invaluable to our friends, and dreadful to 
 our enemies." 
 
 A grave question is whether Gibraltar is impregnable at the 
 present time. The English do not so regard it, and are con- 
 stantly strengthening the fortifications. At the time that we 
 were there extraordinary improvements were being introduced. 
 Two new guns of one hundred tons were being placed in posi- 
 tion, one on the Alameda, another nearer Europa Point. The 
 summit of the rock is also being fortified. At present, should 
 an enemy land, there would be no guns to cover him, but ar- 
 rangements are being made to supply this defect. Three pits 
 thirty feet deep are being dug, one near O'Hara's Tower, 
 another near the signal station, and a third near the flagstaff. 
 In the lower part of these pits are to be magazines, and above 
 revolving guns, which will have a complete circuit of fire, cover 
 boats at anchorage, and from their elevation, averaging from 
 twelve hundred to thirteen hundred feet, they will command 
 the town of Gibraltar. Nine two-inch guns are to be placed 
 above Queen's Row, at a height of six hundred feet, running 
 the entire length of the rock. 
 
 The impressive feature of the whole situation is the evi- 
 dence of the power of England. It is one of the outposts on 
 the way to her wide Eastern domain. Here her fleets can be 
 sheltered, provisioned, and coaled. Malta and Cyprus, the 
 former one of the strongest fortifications in the world, lie at 
 convenient distances beyond. When reflecting upon the small 
 size and comparatively limited population of Great Britain, I 
 felt myself in the presence of a power vaster, taking all the 
 forms of influence into the account, than any now existing, 
 perhaps than any which has ever existed. Observe the table 
 which I had before me : 
 
 United Kingdom , 
 
 European Dependencies 
 
 North America 
 
 West Indies and Central America. 
 
 South America 
 
 Africa 
 
 Asia 
 
 Australasia 
 
 Total 
 
 Area, sq. m. 
 
 Population, 1881 
 
 121,135 
 
 34,885,000 
 
 423 
 
 328,000 
 
 3,510,611 
 
 4,520,000 
 
 20, 564 
 
 1,244,000 
 
 -9,664 
 
 255,000 
 
 565,000 
 
 3,490,000 
 
 1,410,000 
 
 257,467,000 
 
 3,175,870 
 
 2,914.000 
 
 8,983,267 
 
 305,103,000 
 
ii6 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Note how small a proportion the size and population of 
 Great Britain and Ireland bear to the whole empire which ac- 
 knowledges Victoria! 
 
 But the time came to depart, and at ten o'clock on Wednes- 
 day, January 2, we embarked in a small boat, and rode out 
 two miles to the point where our steamer was coaling. As we 
 drew near she began to move, and this gave us the most beauti- 
 ful starlight ride of five or six miles, until the object of our 
 pursuit came to anchor. We were not disturbed, being four 
 hours in advance of the advertised time of sailing. The huge 
 frowning rock that seemed to rear its head to the stars, 
 the thousand lights in the town and barracks, the sparkling 
 tapers in the half-score of villages, and colored lanterns upon 
 the hundred ships in the bay, the distant mountain peaks, and 
 the phosphorescent gleam upon the waters, while carrying 
 visual delight to a point of ecstasy, taught us its limitations, 
 for we were in a pleasurable pain lest, while looking in one 
 direction, another view would be lost. Meanwhile a military 
 band was playing upon the esplanade, and clear and sweet 
 across the waters came snatches of martial music, rising and 
 falling "like bells at evening pealing." Suddenly a flash like 
 lightning gleamed on the highest summit of the huge black 
 mountain, and the loud boom of the evening gun was heard. 
 AVe were six miles away, and more than thirty seconds elapsed 
 before the thunder overtook the lightning. 
 
Algeria. 119 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Algeria. 
 
 Voyage from Gibraltar to Oran — Description of Oran — Railway Journey to 
 Algiers — Its Appearance on Approaching by Night — Jardin des Planter — 
 Old Arab Town — " Marabouts." 
 
 On sailing from Gibraltar for Algeria we were pleased with 
 the name of our steamer — the Afriquc. But as "the legs of 
 the lame are unequal/' so is the conclusion of him who hath 
 but one preinise; for the Afrique is old enough to have had 
 the choice of names when the line was established; noisy, 
 rickety, literally unstable as water, the yoyage of three or four 
 days was linked misery long drawn out. 
 
 The Afrique, after bumj^ing day and night, silenced its 
 machinery in the alleged harbor of Nemours, the first French 
 town on the coast of Africa, only twenty-fiye miles from the 
 frontier of Morocco. The bay is sheltered from all winds ex- 
 cept the one from which in that latitude bad weather generally 
 comes. It is impossible to get on shore except during fine 
 weather. Had it been a little worse, none of the passengers 
 for that place could have disembarked, and no cargo could 
 haye been taken on. We loaded oyer eight thousand sacks of 
 Algerian wheat of an inferior quality, all of which was brought 
 off amid raging waves in open boats manned by Moors and 
 Negroes. It was a spectacle of unceasing interest to see the 
 long line of men with sacks on their shoulders coming down 
 among the breakers, filling the boats, and then rowing them 
 more than half a mile out to the ship. 
 
 Above the town were the fortifications and the ruins of the 
 old Arab settlement. The coast is high, stern, and almost 
 inaccessible. There are mines in the neighborhood, and a 
 company formerly manufactured and exported much pig iron; 
 but during the insurrection of 1S71 the Arabs destroyed the 
 machinery. 
 
 Late in the night we reached Oran. Remaining on board 
 
I20 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 till daylight, on disembarking we found a town which, in 
 beauty of situation, fine streets, noble public and charming 
 private buildings, surpasses most French seaports. It lies on 
 the steep slope of a mountain whose summit is crowded with 
 fortifications. Rocky capes tower a thousand feet, and prom- 
 ontories surmounted by lighthouses project picturesquely 
 into the sea. The public buildings are mostly new, and the 
 mosques and cathedral are of marble. "We rode through the 
 entire city, and nowhere were without something to charm 
 the eye. The forts on the heights and in the town, some 
 at an elevation of above a thousand feet, strike the beholder at 
 once as impressive features. The city is surrounded by a 
 high wall, with nine gates.' Everywhere modern enterprise 
 was evident. Many new buildings of remarkable proportions 
 were in process of construction. 
 
 For unmingled pleasure commend us to the railway ride 
 by day from Oran to Algiers. The thirteen hours, instead 
 of fatiguing, exhilarated. Algeria is divided into the Tell 
 (the beautiful region between the mountains and the coast 
 range), the High Plateaus, and the Desert of Sahara. The 
 divisions are caused by the Atlas Mountains, which run fif- 
 teen hundred miles from Cape Nun, on the Atlantic, to Cape 
 Bon, in Tunis. The Tell is only from fifty to a hundred 
 miles in width, and in the province of Oran it does not aver- 
 age sixty. 
 
 The railway runs through the very heart of this expanse 
 of undulating land, where crops can be cultivated success- 
 fully through the year, and the traveler may see oranges 
 in bloom, and at the same time countless groves filled with 
 ripe fruit. The almond with its beautiful blossoms resembles 
 a cherry tree in bloom. Along the shore are low hills, between 
 which we caught glimpses of the sea; while fifty miles inland 
 rise the loftier mountains. The country is without fences, and 
 the roads are smooth and hard as granite. We were never out 
 of sight of native cottages, establishments of landed proprie- 
 tors, charming villages, and picturesque Arabs laboring in the 
 fields, donkeys laden Avith vegetables, pr.ocessions of Arabs 
 on foot intermingling freely with the French. The French 
 are the aristocrats of this whole region, and when employed 
 
Algeria. 121 
 
 for menial work they often become drunkards. In subordi- 
 nate capacities they are found unreliable. 
 
 Algiers, when approached by night, presents the appearance 
 of the milky way. Its shops being gayly lighted, and the 
 principal streets arcaded, a confused mellow light which only 
 yields distant points to the vision when the eye is concen- 
 trated, gives the spectator a sensation with which only the 
 stolid would fail to be pleased. On coming nearer, it was 
 difficult to distinguish the sky from the earth; for the high 
 hills upon the side of which Algiers is built sparkled with 
 lights radiating from the Moorish and other villas which oc- 
 cupy them. 
 
 A long walk to the Jardin des Plantes made us familiar with 
 the general aspects of the city, revealing a .landscape contain- 
 ing all the elements of natural beauty; the sea in agitation be- 
 5'ond, calm as a lake on a summer evening within the bay; 
 afar ermine mountains ; nearer vine and forest covered hills, 
 and every variety of tree and flower artistically arranged in 
 spacious avenues adorned with fountains. At no great dis- 
 tance appeared the city, and upon the slopes the villas and 
 gardens of the wealthy French, English, and Scotch-, who winter 
 there, and of prosperous merchants of Algiers who have sub- 
 urban residences. In the Jardin grow magnolias, India rub- 
 ber, fig, orange, lemon, bamboo, palm, dwarf palm, banana, 
 cork, olive, and eucalyptus trees, together with the acacias 
 casiian?iis, imported from Australia. 
 
 The old Arab town gives a more favorable impression than 
 that made by Tangier. It is on a steep hillside, the houses are 
 white, the streets only five or six feet wide, and so crooked 
 that no carriages can pass through them. They are connected 
 by alleys, some of them less than two feet wide. The roofs 
 lean toward each other, sometimes leaving not more than 
 twelve inches for the sunlight to enter. Yet there is a con- 
 stant draught of air, the slope keeps them clean, and they are 
 sweeter than many wide streets in European cities. 
 
 It is impossible to obtain access to the interior of a Moor's 
 house of the better class. Residents told us that the wealth- 
 ier Moors, avoiding studiously ever^'thing like external display, 
 carry internal elegance and picturesqueness to the highest pos- 
 
122 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 sible point. No Moorish woman of high rank is ever seen 
 alone in the street. The description given to us of the in- 
 terior of the best Moorish houses is fascinating. The outer 
 door opens into the vestibule, on each side of which is a stone 
 bench divided into stalls by marble columns. Above is the 
 arch. The master here receives his male friends. Then 
 comes the open court, paved with marble or tiles, having an 
 arcade all around. Here the important domestic festivities, 
 such as marriage and circumcision, are held. Around it are 
 kitchens, storehouses, baths. The private rooms are above. 
 The houses rise one above another, and each has a flat terrace. 
 
 In some respects the palace of the archbishop is as interest- 
 ing a building as Algiers contains. It and the Cathedral of 
 St. Philip, built on the site of the IMosque of Hassan, exhibit to 
 excellent advantage the present condition of Roman Catholi- 
 cism in Algiers. The archiepiscopal palace is of Moorish 
 origin, modified to suit modern purposes. 
 
 A remarkable tomb is shown containing the body of an 
 Arab, named Geronimo, who accepted Christianity at the age 
 of twenty-five years, having been baptized as an infant. Being 
 captured four years after his formal acceptance of Christianity, 
 and refusing to recant, while yet alive, his feet and hands hav- 
 ing been bound with cords, he was covered with fresh con- 
 crete, after which the block thus formed was properly shaped 
 and built into an angle of the wall. The place w^as carefully 
 recorded, and in 1S53, three hundred years afterward, it was 
 necessary to destroy the fort, and in the very spot the skeleton 
 was found inclosed in the block. The bones were interred in 
 the cathedral. Liquid plaster of Paris was then run into the 
 cavity and a model obtained showing his very features and the 
 marks of the cords that bound him. 
 
 The so-called new mosque is probably two hundred years of 
 age, and a legend says that the Italian architect who built it 
 was put to death by the Arabs because he had constructed it in 
 the form of a Greek cross. But the Grand Mosque is far more 
 impressive, and is the most ancient in the countr}', dating 
 from the eleventh century. To this day a part of it is used 
 as a court of justice, and we saw the cadi engaged in the 
 transaction of business. 
 
Moorish Woman in Street Costume. 
 
Algeria. 125 
 
 On and near the tomb of Sidi Abd-er-Rahman-eth-Thalebi 
 perpetual lamps burn, and the richest silk drapery is hung. 
 All about are banners, eggs of ostriches, and other gifts. 
 Next to the Grand Mosque it is the most ancient religious 
 building in Algeria, ^^'e visited the tombs of several " mara- 
 bouts." These are saints, and such visits, if made in faith, 
 are supposed to heal diseases, ward off ill luck, and do many 
 other things which the Catholics claim are accomplished by 
 their pilgrimages, and professional Protestant "faith healers " 
 by their operations. 
 
 Some of the living "marabouts" we saw. Most of them 
 are insane; and the Mohammedans, like many of the inhab- 
 itants of Russia, believe that a person who has lost his senses 
 is visited by God, with whom he holds converse. This gives 
 wide scope for impostors, many of whom feign madness. An 
 old fellow of this sort we found e^ngaged in fulminating bitter 
 imprecations against some one. A friend, who translated the 
 Arabic for us, said that probably he was paid to do it. We 
 heard much of the fanatic religious ceremonies of the Ais- 
 saoui, which consist of the beating of drums and other in- 
 struments, after which one of the order, claiming inspiration, 
 rushes with a wild howl into a ring and begins to dance, joined 
 by others who continue until they fall exhausted or are stopped 
 by the head of the order. After this they sear themselves 
 with a red-hot iron, eat live scorpions and serpents, chew 
 broken glass, and appear insensible to pain. The head of the 
 order, with a keen eye to business, offered to get up a per- 
 formance for us for forty-five francs. Having no difficulty in 
 understanding how all that they really do could be done with- 
 out supernatural aid, we declined the tolerably cheap offer. 
 
 Those ancient sacrificial rites performed on the seashore, in 
 which Negroes, degenerate Jews, and Mohammedans partic- 
 ipated in slaughtering fowls and lambs, burning incense, and 
 smearing themselves with blood in order to cure diseases and 
 obtain prosperity, have disappeared under the influence of 
 European civilization. We saw some who still perform in secret 
 places, and thus passed from mosque, synagogue, and church 
 to the darkest heathenism and superstition. 
 
i2<S Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Algiers and the Atlas Mountains. 
 
 The Black Virgin — Strange Ceremony — Interview with a Moor — Algerine 
 Pirates — Arab Cemeteiy — Bearded Priests — Power of the Jews — Sir Peter 
 Coates — Tour to the Atlas Mountains — French Engineering — Apes — Wild 
 Animals. 
 
 Ascending the height, a peak of Mount Bon-Zarea, upon 
 which stands the Catholic Church of Xotre Dame d'Afrique, 
 we enjoyed a splendid view of the sea and city. The Virgin 
 Mary has been subjected to remarkable artistic treatment. 
 Here we found her one of the blackest of Negroes. In most 
 other cities she is as white as the fairest lily. The legend 
 runs that the Virgin appeared' to some native of Africa in the 
 form of a tall black woman. This inscription surrounds the 
 altar: '■''Notre Dame d^ Afrique^ priez pour nous et pour les 
 Mussulmans " — (Our Lady of Africa, pray for us and for the 
 Moslems). 
 
 The place is famous for a ceremony which is said to have no 
 parallel. It is performed every Sunday afternoon, after ves- 
 pers: the clergy chant the usual prayers for the dead, then go 
 in procession to a point which overhangs the sea, and over that 
 greatest of sepulchers perform the ceremonies which the Roman 
 Catholic Church appoints for ordinary funerals. A fine monu- 
 ment has been erected, on which is an inscription of which the 
 followuig is a translation: 
 
 S. Em. C. Cardinal Charles Martial Allemand-Lavigerie, 
 
 Archbishop of Algiers and of Carthage, Primate of Africa, 
 
 has been kind enough to accord in perpetuity 
 
 one hundred days of indulgence to all those who will recite here one 
 
 pater and one ave 
 for the sailors who have perished on the sea, or those who find them- 
 selves in peril of death. 
 The Pope, Leo X Tilth, has accorded full indulgence to those who 
 will recite these prayers on Sunday. 
 
Algiers and the Atlas Mountains. 127 
 
 From this point we took a walk of nine miles, ascending to 
 the loftiest summit in the vicinity of Algiers. The route was 
 by an old, disused Arab road. 
 
 After we had been walking three quarters of an hour, ab- 
 sorbed in the enchanting prospects, a formidable voice was 
 heard demanding in the French language where we were 
 going. It came from the mouth of a iSIoor of distinguished 
 appearance, apparently sixty-five years of age, who stood in 
 front of a fine old Moorish mansion. Our guide informed him 
 that we were ascending to the observatory. He responded: 
 "I have bought the property and broken up the road. You 
 must go back." 
 
 Perceiving from the excellence of his French that he was an 
 educated man, we began to use blandishments, informed him 
 that we were Americans, would not have presumed to trespass 
 upon the property had we not supposed that the road was 
 open, whereupon his bronze features relaxed into a smile that 
 lighted up his countenance like warm sunshine on a winter 
 day. He allowed us to pass, taking pains, however, to send us 
 by a path which led us as far as possible from the house. 
 
 We ascended to the point of observation whence in old times 
 the piratical Algerines scrutinized the sea for merchant vessels 
 traversing the ^Mediterranean. Xor were those times so very 
 long since. Less than a hundred years ago Algiers was the 
 terror of the civilized world. European powers obeyed the 
 orders of the Dey, who exacted annual tributes from all con- 
 suls, and, whenever he needed money, declared war on some 
 commercial nation. Spain, Hplland, Venice, Denmark, Portu- 
 gal, and Naples were obliged to purchase peace, and the United 
 States, in 1795, had to do the same, at a cost of seven hundred 
 and twenty-one thousand dollars, and the further agreement 
 to pay a tribute annually of twenty-two thousand dollars. 
 
 Immediately after the revolution Algiers declared war on 
 the United States. In a few years it captured thirteen prizes 
 and made slaves of more than a hundred American citizens. 
 It was after this that the price just mentioned was paid, 
 partly as a ransom for these captives, and partly in presents. 
 In 1 81 2 it again declared war against the United States, and 
 began to capture vessels, when the President begged the Dey 
 
128 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 to negotiate another ransom. He refused, afifirming that "he 
 considered American slaves as beyond price." In May, 1815, 
 the United States sent a squadron to Algiers to demand a 
 modification of all treaties. Captains Decatur and Bain- 
 bridge happened to arrive when the Algerian vessels were 
 away, and secured what was demanded. 
 
 Two years later Great Britain compelled the Dey to abolish 
 Christian slavery forever, to liberate all slaves then in his 
 dominion, and to restore all money received by him for the 
 redemption of slaves, the result of which was the liberation of 
 three thousand and three European Christians. But the old 
 spirit was there, and not till the French conquered Algeria 
 was this organized piracy brought to an end. 
 
 Here were we in sight of the port whence they sailed, and of 
 the estates built by the produce of their piracy. From this 
 elevated view point they could see more than sixty miles, and 
 with their trained eyes probably eighty. Their faster cruisers 
 were always in readiness, and woe to the unsuspecting mer- 
 chant vessel becalmed upon the Mediterranean olif Algiers, 
 where expert rowers, in the darkness of the night, could sally 
 forth, plunder, kill, or enslave. 
 
 A thousand feet above the sea stands the observatory, in a 
 translucent atmosphere, and at a height most favorably situ- 
 ated to scour the heavens. 
 
 We climbed still higher to Bon-Zarea. This is a small 
 European settlement, but the native village, about two thirds 
 of a mile to the left, was the object of interest to us. There, 
 in inclosures cf prickly pears of size, are several " I'ouMas" 
 (tombs of saints), the most noted of which is that of Sidi 
 Naaman, of alleged miraculous powers. This place is dis- 
 tinguished for dwarf palms of such extraordinary height as to 
 make a difficult problem for botanists. The apex of the 
 elevation is occupied by an Arab cemetery. The stones, 
 masonry, and monuments, almost hidden beneath old trees, 
 vines, and shrubs, present a picture of crystallized antiquity. 
 
 Thence in a walk of six miles we returned by a longer but 
 level winding road to the suburb of Bab-el-Oued. The French 
 Alpine Club had shortened our journey by constructing a steep 
 but not difficult footpath down the mountain side. 
 
Algiers and the Atlas ]Mouxtains. 129 
 
 Struck with the beards worn by the priests in the Roman 
 Catholic churches, streets, and funeral processions, we found 
 that, as among Arabs the beard is the sign of manhood (the 
 Arab swearing by the beard), the Roman Catholic Church 
 compels its priests in Africa to wear them. If they are trans- 
 ferred from France to Algeria, they cannot -shave; if they 
 return permanently to France, they must do so. Noticing 
 years ago in the paintings of bishops and priests in the galler- 
 ies of Europe that they were often represented with beards, I 
 asked a priest how the requirement, that priests should wear 
 shaven faces, originated. He frankly replied that he could 
 not state; that some claimed it was an order issued by a pope 
 who could not raise a beard. Be that as it may, the rule is 
 relaxed by dispensation in special cases, and entirely where the 
 Church can gain influence by it. 
 
 One of the fortifications now commanding the town was 
 built by the Moors on the spot where Charles V had his camp 
 during his unsuccessful assault upon Algiers. Here the 
 French general received the capitulation of the Dey. Many 
 are the traditions exhibiting the bloodthirsty spirit of those 
 despotic rulers. Once the Dey returning looked at the wall 
 where executions took place, and saying, "That wall is 
 hungry," ordered that every prisoner except such as he chose 
 to favor should be executed for his amusement the next morn- 
 ing. 
 
 The Jews are powerful in Algeria, both in Omn and Al- 
 giers, owning the best building sites and buildings, keeping 
 the largest shops and stores, and making the bulk of the pop- 
 ulation tributary to them. In Oran the Moors hate them so 
 that, if the French troops were withdrawn, they would prob- 
 ably make short work with them. Many are men of the 
 greatest financial and general ability, and some of high char- 
 acter. 
 
 I have already spoken of the villas purchased from the 
 Moors or erected in the Moorish style by foreigners who 
 escape the rigors of severe climes by spending the winters in 
 Algiers. Among these one of the most beautiful is that occu- 
 pied by Sir Peter Coates, a name carried all over the world on 
 spools of thread. 
 8 
 
I ,o Travels in Three Cont1x\ents. 
 
 To Sir Peter I had a letter of introduction from his old 
 friend Dr. William M. Taylor, of the Broadway Tabernacle. 
 On presenting it I was received as though a relative of the 
 family, and every courtesy exhibited. It was not the privi- 
 leo-e of seeing the interior of so fine a residence, nor of 
 gazing upon a prospect of surpassing loveliness, nor of wit- 
 nessing the perfection of detail and the happy combination of 
 beauty and utility in all the arrangements, nor the luxuriant 
 growth of vegetation of nature left to itself, or where its pro- 
 fusion is trained and pruned by art, that we most highly es- 
 teemed—one need not leave the United States to enjoy these 
 things — but such honest, downright, bounteous, Scotch, Chris- 
 tian hospitality. Sir Peter, though just past his eightieth 
 year, was full of vivacity. His munificence in the support of 
 education, philanthropy, and in promoting public welfare in 
 other ways, led to his being knighted by the queen. Conver- 
 sation of the host and the younger members of the family and 
 visitors left upon the travelers, who sat at his table during the 
 long winter (summer) evening, a permanent sense of delight. 
 His death was announced while this volume was being prepared. 
 
 The long chain of the Atlas Mountains, much of which is 
 an almost unknown territory to civilized nations, in Algeria 
 approaches the coast, is within the range of French adminis- 
 tration, and accessible to pedestrians or travelers on horseback 
 or by diligence. Our course for thirty miles was through 
 a fertile, charming part of the Tell country to Blidah. As we 
 approached that place — a military station in the time of the 
 Romans, destroyed by an earthquake in 1825, but soon rebuilt 
 — we came to a succession of gardens, traversed shady roads, 
 and passed a sacred grove of the Arabs, entering the town 
 between orange groves where the trees were borne almost to 
 earth by the abundance of fruit. 
 
 Blidah is beautifully situated at the foot of the first slopes of 
 the Atlas Mountains. Their forms, here dark and there snow- 
 clad, send long shadows across the town, while the verdant 
 plain stretches away to the hills along the coast. Procuring • 
 horses, we began the journey into the mountains. The cold, 
 stimulating breeze from the snowy peaks, shaded valleys, and 
 steep ravines, reminded us more of an American winter day 
 
7n 
 cr 
 
 P 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 << 
 
 L 
 
Algiers and the Atlas Mountains. 133 
 
 than anything previously experienced in Africa. Upon the 
 hillsides tombs of "marabouts," often inclosed in consecrated 
 houses of prayer, white as snow; the flanks of the Atlas splen- 
 didly covered with cedars; barren rocky ridges, too precipitous 
 for earth or trees; distant isolated peaks, fortified hills, and 
 pastoral landscapes diversified with roads, irrigating streams 
 and small rivers, filled the eye with light and beauty. 
 
 We were in the vicinity of ancient Xumidia, and saw above 
 the horizon a building whose construction is attributed to a 
 Numidian queen. Xumidia, generally speaking, is held to 
 correspond to a part of the neighboring French province of 
 Constantine. The ancient inhabitants were the Berbers, 
 divided into Kabyles and the Chawia; and Arabs, divided 
 into Moors and Bedouins. The Kabyles and the Arabs, though 
 both Mohammedan, have always been intensely hostile, and 
 often in fierce conflict. The Arabs prevailed and drove the 
 Kabyles into the mountain fastnesses and higher table-lands, 
 where they maintained their independence until recently. In 
 many customs they differ from the Arabs. Their habits are 
 regular, and they are excellent farmers, nor do they cover 
 the faces of their women, who have a better reputation than 
 Moorish women of the same classes, notwithstanding that 
 supposed protection. 
 
 On entering the gorge of the Chiffa, a stupendous chasm in 
 the mountains extending ten miles, we were met by the little 
 river Chiffa, which came dancing down the hillsides out into 
 the plain, like a schoolgirl escaped after a long penance at the 
 desk. To the right towered Djebel Mouzaia, between five and 
 six thousand feet high. The French road, built by military 
 engineers, may be styled a perfect achievement of road 
 engineering. It is blasted out of the solid rock for almost the 
 entire distance, often carried along the face of the cliff, pro- 
 tected by thick stone walls, and in some parts built in the bed 
 of the stream. The work was done by soldiers in the early 
 days of the capture of Algeria by the French, while the 
 Kabyles were on the higher summits rolling stones upon them. 
 The French army beat back the hardy mountaineers, and made 
 a road through this tremendous gorge finer than any to be 
 found in Central Park, 
 
134 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The farther we penetrated, the more striking became the 
 scenery. It has been complained by some that snow moun- 
 tains and glaciers, such as are seen in Switzerland, are absent 
 from the Atlas range. There was no lack of snowy summits 
 in January. At first the sides of the gorge were covered with 
 trees, except where there were precipices several hundred feet 
 in height, over which small streams ran in a kind of spray, 
 swollen by the recent rains and the melting snows; but, as we 
 ascended, glimpses of heights above the line of vegetation gave 
 us the true mountain horizon. 
 
 At one point there is a steep path leading up the mountain 
 side to a garden. Here a futile attempt was made to cul- 
 tivate coffee and other exotics. We climbed the path until, 
 owing to its precipitousness and dampness, it became danger- 
 ous, one of the party being struck by a falling stone, which 
 needed only a little greater momentum or a sharper edge to 
 have cut short the journey and sent the traveler home a crip- 
 ple for life. 
 
 These mountains abound with apes, which often amuse 
 themselves by pelting the passer with stones. Notwithstand- 
 ing the engineering operations which have been going on for a 
 long time, they still appear, leaping from branch to branch of 
 the wild olive trees and the junipers, breaking off the branches 
 of the fruit trees and screaming at their play, or in their 
 humanlike struggles for the largest apples or pears. They 
 have a mania, too, for tearing off beautiful ferns and flowers. 
 The morning that we looked for them they were somewhat 
 shy owing to the cold weather, so that we saw only one or two, 
 and they were a considerable distance away. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Kabylean Mountains, in their opin- 
 ions of monkeys, reverse the Darwinian theory. When 
 their depredations are serious the natives will drive them 
 away, but hesitate to kill them, believing them descended 
 from men who, having incurred the anger of God, were de- 
 prived of speech. 
 
 To catch monkeys the natives prepare a jar containing nuts, 
 almonds, and such things as they like, which they close, leav- 
 ing a hole only large enough to admit a monkey's open hand. 
 He seizes some of the contents and tries to draw his hand out. 
 
Algiers and the Atlas Mountains. 135 
 
 It never occurs to him to open his fist, and there he stays un- 
 able to escape with the heavy jar. 
 
 A walk of several miles, inspecting the railroad then build- 
 ing — for the PVench, not content with the construction of the 
 highway above described, were achieving a feat of engineering 
 still more remarkable — revealed a scene as impressive as the 
 natural phenomena. Here masses of mountains were being 
 blasted, excavations made at isolated points preliminary to 
 further operations, and tunnels two hundred and fifty to five 
 hundred feet above the line of others were being bored, showing 
 that the road must be carried between the two. Far above 
 these the surveyors' signals and flags could be seen, the whole 
 seeming "confusion worse confounded ;" but to the engineer's 
 eye it was harmonious. 
 
 These mountains, and indeed all the less settled parts of 
 Algeria, formerly abounded with wild animals. Between 1873 
 and 1884 one hundred and eighty-two lions and lionesses and 
 seventeen whelps were killed; one thousand and ninety-five 
 panthers, and one hundred and nineteen young panthers; one 
 thousand eight hundred and eighty-two hyenas; twenty-seven 
 thousand one hundred and eighty-five jackals. Bounties were 
 paid upon these — for every lion, eight dollars; a panther, the 
 same; for a hyena, three dollars; and a jackal, a half dollar. 
 The number of wild animals has greatly diminished, lions being 
 now very scarce. 
 
 Here I saw engineers with surveying instruments; the con- 
 tractor, with his gangs of men; wood workers; blasters, pre- 
 paring explosives and fuses; "hewers of wood and drawers 
 of water," stonecutters, and common laborers, government 
 officers, and soldiers, huts for the accommodation of the work- 
 men at night, restaurants, and feeding troughs for men and 
 animals. Here were the Kabyles at work, a few Moors, with 
 Negroes from the Soudan, Italians, Germans, Maltese, some 
 Spaniards, many Frenchmen; but no Americans or English- 
 men. A constant procession was passing over the highway, of 
 six, eight, ten mule teams of goods-wagons that, except for 
 some slight differences in construction, might have led us to 
 fancy ourselves west of the Mississippi in the days before the 
 Pacific Railroad; hundreds of muleteers with loads for the rail- 
 
136 Travels in Three Contineimts. 
 
 road station, twelve or fifteen miles distant; Kabyle men and 
 women — it was a scene both oriental and occidental — Asiatic, 
 African, and European. 
 
 Not as many thousand miles to the south and east in the 
 Dark Continent as we had traveled to reach the splendid views 
 which filled our eyes, we hear of dazzling snow peaks suspended 
 in the heavens; black gulfs of volcanic craters a mile wide; 
 countless cascades of mountain torrents; violet-gray sierras; 
 " the shimmering azure of the hill-encircled lakes; " salt plains 
 whiter than snow and sparkling with myriad crystals; " marshes 
 which are the habitat of pink flamingoes, white egrets, gray 
 pelicans, and ' the Hagedash ibis, which is a walking rainbow; ' 
 the luxuriant greenness of the tropical forests, with their vel- 
 vet-foliaged albizzias, their stately sterculias, ... a kaleido- 
 scopic mingling of the sublime, the awful, the vast, the luxu- 
 riant, and the tenderly beautiful." 
 
 While nothing equal to this was seen by us in northern and 
 western Africa, views of the luxuriant, the tenderly beautiful, 
 and glimpses of the grand were afforded. 
 
Marseilles axd the Frenxh Riviera. 137 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Marseilles and the French Riviera. 
 
 Harbor — Cathedral — Church of Notre Dame de la Garde — Cannes — Nice — 
 Monaco and JMonte Carlo — Tragic Incidents — Mentone — Mr. Spurgeon. 
 
 The city of Algiers is five hundred miles nearly due south 
 from Marseilles, which is the most important seaport of France, 
 a large part of its business being done with the French pos- 
 sessions in Africa. We made the passage in the Ville de 
 Naples, in a violent storm which reduced the cabin to a hospital 
 and the dining saloon to a solitude; yet Marseilles was reached 
 in thirty-two hours. 
 
 In approaching, by sea, a large city in a moonless, misty 
 night, there is something weird. We glided apparently among 
 gigantic specters of ships, hearing now and then a splash or a 
 voice, and the boats that came out to us from the shore ap- 
 peared more like huge fish than machines of human con- 
 trivance. 
 
 The conspicuous feature of Marseilles is the harbor, which 
 has been enlarged to four times its former size within the last 
 forty years, and is yet too small. Next in interest are the 
 streets, many of which are fine and wide. The quarter 
 scourged by the cholera a few years ago showed no traces of 
 what makes even the name a terror. Density of population, 
 lowness of situation, and heat of climate account for the rav- 
 ages of the pestilence. A reminder of one of the most terrible 
 plagues of all history is seen in the Cours Belzance, in which 
 stands a statue of the bishop after whom the place is named, 
 who faithfully discharged his duty, visiting the sick and 
 burying the dead during the pestilence in 1720, which carried 
 off forty thousand persons. 
 
 Marseilles is proud of its new cathedral, which, however, is 
 not equal to some of the ancient ecclesiastical structures of 
 Europe. On Sunday the streets were filled, and all kinds of 
 outdoor amusements, and business of every sort that appeals 
 
138 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 to the people on a holiday, were openly and generally pros- 
 ecuted. Processions with bands of music paraded, and the 
 whole city appeared to be abroad. 
 
 The Church of Notre Dame de la Garde, on a lofty emi- 
 nence near the sea, transcends the cathedral m interest. The 
 tower is very high, and its summit commands a spectacle 
 which remains one of the landmarks in memory. Almost 
 perpendicularly beneath is the old harbor; beyond is the city 
 filling the valley; above rise the hills, their dark sides dotted 
 with the white villas of merchants and other residents of Mar- 
 seilles. Following the horizon, the Mediterranean is seen in 
 the distance, while nearer is a group of fortified islands, upon 
 one of which is the Chateau d' If. This recalls the startling 
 scene in the stormy period of the first French Revolution, 
 when Mirabeau was incarcerated in that inaccessible fortress. 
 But a much stronger impression was made upon my mind 
 by the reference to it in the Count of Monte Cristo^ a book 
 which kept me awake all night when a child, and was almost 
 equally fascinating at a later period when common sense 
 might have been expected to revolt from the improbable. 
 Happening to hear a band play the Marseillaise, which so re- 
 cently we had heard sung by the fifty thousand Frenchmen 
 who celebrated the anniversarv of the execution of Baudin, 
 1 was reminded that it was for the galley slaves who were sent 
 to Paris in 1792 that that stirring piece was composed. 
 
 On leaving Marseilles our course was southward, and the 
 first point at which we left the train was Nice, distant seven 
 hours by rail. Toulon, which suffered from the cholera 
 scourge even more severely than Marseilles, is a war rendez- 
 vous of France for the Mediterranean; it has two harbors, pro- 
 tected by eleven forts, which, being upon adjacent heights, 
 produce a fine effect. 
 
 St. Raphael is romantically situated, and its name is familiar 
 to readers of French history, for it was from that port Napo- 
 leon embarked, April 28, 1814, for Elba, after his compulsory 
 abdication. 
 
 Cannes has a most picturesque situation. This is not a 
 place for a day, but "for the season." It owes its popularicy 
 greatly to Lord Brougham. He visited it for several years, 
 
Marseilles and the French Riviera. 139 
 
 sounded its praises, and died there. As we passed I 
 strained my eyes to get a glimpse of Fort Monterey. This 
 has been famous for two hundred years. "The Man with 
 the Iron Mask " was confined therein from 1686 to 1698, and 
 it was to Cannes that Marshal Bazaine was sent after he 
 surrendered Metz, and remained until he escaped August 
 9, 1874. 
 
 Nice is one of the comparatively few celebrated places where 
 the enthusiastic praises of its habitues are sustained by the 
 facts. We stayed long enough to admire its scenic charms, 
 to breathe its pure air, and see something of its social life. 
 It is a town of hotels and pensions, of immense gardens and 
 suburban villas. The first thing that caught my eye was an 
 avenue of eucalypti, with which we had become familiar in 
 Spain and Algiers. The public garden, and the Promenade 
 des Anglais, with hotels and villas crowded with visitors, 
 enlivened with military music and frequent parades, are not 
 surpassed. But the greatest charm is Castle Hill. Its sides 
 are ornamented with palms, oranges, cypresses, aloes, and 
 many other varieties of trees, through which a fine carriage 
 road winds, crossed at intervals by a footpath, which admits 
 of ascending to the summit in twenty minutes. An artifi- 
 cial waterfall is at the top. A series of paintings by the 
 finest artists, exhibited in the form of a panorama, could 
 hardly portray the beauty of the outlook ; what, then, can 
 be expected of a single paragraph? The most distant view 
 is the Alps ; turning sharply around to the south is the 
 Mediterranean; to the west are the long lines of the coast, 
 with various promontories, and the mouth of the little river 
 Varm, which was the boundarv between France and Sardinia 
 down to i860. Nearer, Nice and the beautiful towns and 
 villages, and wooded heights which surround them, appear; 
 but on the south the hill on which we stand descends ab- 
 ruptly toward the sea. It has a peculiar name, which serves 
 as a warning, Raiiba Capeii (the hat robber), since gusts 
 arise there on short notice. Nice has for Frenchmen of a 
 radical type an attraction in the grave of Gambetta. The 
 ruins of the castle which gives the hill its name are of interest 
 to visitors. 
 
I40 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The season was fairly opened when we were there. The 
 brilliant equipages of French and English annual visitors, the 
 multitude of transient guests, and the lively motions and 
 active, eager look of the shopkeepers and other caterers to 
 the foreign influx, with the balmy atmosphere, which gave a 
 breath of summer or late spring to those who had fled from 
 vigorous northern winters, imparted that delightful stimulus 
 which distinguishes a living from a dead place. 
 
 The little principality of Monaco, beautiful, fashionable, 
 disreputable, the smallest, and by some claimed to be the 
 oldest monarchy in Europe, is scarcely ten miles from Nice. 
 Its entire territory includes but three or four square miles, and 
 its permanent population is not so great as that of a large vil- 
 lage. The government belongs to the princes of the house of 
 Grimaldi, though it is practically in the hands of France, 
 which purchased it from Sardinia, 
 
 Monte Carlo is much better known than INIonaco. Xo 
 region is more picturesque than the entire territory. Sea, 
 land, and sky are at their best, and modern lavish expendi- 
 tures by man, blending with remains of the antique, improve 
 the picture. In the seasons all classes of society except the 
 very poor visit Monte Carlo, and it has two seasons — winter 
 for climate and summer for sea bathing. In ancient times 
 Monaco was occupied by Saracen freebooters, who by piracy 
 accumulated great wealth. At present its revenues are derived 
 from another form of villainy, in which seductive persuasions 
 take the place of violence. But the end sought is the same. 
 Gambling at Monte Carlo supports the government. The 
 privilege of keeping a public gambling house is rented to a 
 company, which pays sixty thousand pounds per annum for 
 the privilege. 
 
 The Casino is a splendid edifice, surrounded by grounds 
 equal to those of any palace. Everything in and about the 
 building is luxurious. The finest painters have lent their skill 
 to the decoration of the concert hall. Statues of Dancing and 
 Music, landscapes, figures of Homer and Poetry, are there, 
 some of them superior to most modern works of art in the 
 celebrated galleries. Concerts are given twice daily from the 
 beginning of the winter season, Sixtv thousand dollars are 
 
Marseilles and ihe French Riviera. 141 
 
 annuall}^ paid for the band, the leader of which receives ten 
 thousand. Admission to the building and to the concerts is 
 free to all who apply for a card of admission. This lavish 
 outlay is sustained by the profits on gambling. To represent 
 truly the spirit of the place there should be added a statue of 
 Satan as an Angel of Light. The largest room in the build- 
 ing is the gambling hall. Here is no secrecy, for the business 
 is legal. It is the boast of the institution that everything is 
 done with a strict regard to honesty. The games played do 
 not admit of skill ; it is a question of chance. 
 
 Young girls, strangely animated, may be seen seated by 
 the side of aged women whose faces wear the pallor of death, 
 and whose eyes, intent upon the money they put down and 
 the turn of the wheel, wear a snectral look. "Professionals" 
 conceal their emotions whether they lose or gain; not so 
 amateurs who have lost more than they can afford. The 
 vast profits of the proprietors are made by a gain, on an aver- 
 age, of three per cent per day on the money staked. As that 
 has been known to pass a million of dollars, the total is 
 enormous. 
 
 While we were there a young couple came to Monte Carlo 
 on their wedding tour. They were fascinated, began to play, 
 lost all they had, and poisoned themselves at the hotel. 
 
 A strange enchantment often makes havoc of principle, rep- 
 utation, and resolution. A Scotch Presbyterian minister, 
 accompanied by his wife, entered. After looking a while he 
 began to debate putting down money. His wife tried to dis- 
 suade him. Finally he said he would put down a piece, but 
 would not take away the result. He did and won, then left 
 the money on the number and won again, putting in his pos- 
 session by the law of increase, shown by the numbers, proba- 
 bly more than he had possessed at one time in his life. He 
 took it and went away. 
 
 An authentic story was told us of an American minister who 
 was intrusted with the care of a young man of wealth, ^^'hen 
 they reached Monte Carlo the minister advised the young man 
 not to visit the gambling house, and. to induce him not to do 
 so, said that he would not go if the young man would not. To 
 this they agreed. Two hours afterward the young man's reso- 
 
1^2 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 lution failed him, and entering, the first person he met was 
 the minister! To this day he justly denounces him as a hypo- 
 crite. A Roman Catholic bishop, ordered to that region by 
 his physician on account of obstinate ill health, said to me in 
 Monte Carlo that the description of it, as "Hell in the midst 
 of Paradise," was not overdrawn. Special trains suiting the 
 hours are run from neighboring resorts. Though thousands 
 go to Monte Carlo, not primarily for gambling, but for health, 
 no place in the world is so dangerous to the morals of young 
 persons, none better adapted to undermine conscience. Covet- 
 ousness, fashion, the peculiar fascination of chance, and per- 
 sonal vanity, which often desires to show that it dare do these 
 things, unite in one often overpowering temptation. 
 
 A few miles distant is Mentone. It. formerly belonged to 
 Monaco, then to Sardinia, by which it was annexed to France 
 in i860. In contrast with Monte Carlo it is another world, 
 the most quiet and restful of retreats. We took a long moon- 
 light walk along the seacoast, passing villas and precipices, 
 until the line of lights ceased, and then entered a dark recess, 
 in traversing which we crossed the Italian frontier. The moon- 
 light caused the surface of the Mediterranean to resemble a 
 polished mirror, and the effect of the same rays upon the hill- 
 sides was weird. This was Mr. Spurgeon's favorite resort. 
 Driven from the fogs and chills of London by gout, he spent 
 three or four months in Mentone every winter. He was there 
 at the time of our visit, but had met with a severe accident, 
 which confined him to his room for some weeks. His popu- 
 larity was great, nor did he perform an act or speak a word 
 in his many visits inconsistent with the high standard of moral- 
 ity which he preached, or his reputation for unaffected cheer- 
 fulness in his intercourse with all classes. 
 
Genoa and Milan. 143 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Genoa and Milan. 
 
 Statue of Columbus — Description of City — Cathedral of San Lorenzo — History 
 — The Consertatorii — Via di Circonvallazione — Campo Santo — Situation 
 of Milan — Cathedral — The Roof— View from the Tower — Church of San 
 Ambrogio — Gallery of Victor Emmanuel — Cemetery — Parade Ground — 
 Triumphal Arch. « 
 
 The Italian Riviera is divided into two parts, the more 
 beautiful being that through which we rode. Almost the 
 first striking object, after arriving at the station in Genoa, is 
 the statue of Christopher Columbus erected in 1862. Among 
 the last things we saw in Spain were his manuscripts and 
 library in Seville, and here, upon a pedestal surrounded by 
 the prows of ships, with the figure of America kneeling at the 
 base, we saw his statue. The allegorical figures represented 
 in a sitting posture are not unworthy their station. They 
 portray Religion, Geography, Strength, and \\'isdom, and be- 
 tween them are reliefs of scenes from his history. 
 
 Concerning the native place of Columbus the more ancient 
 tradition is that he was born just outside of Saint Andrea; but 
 a rival claimant is a house in Cogoleto, fifteen and a half miles 
 from Genoa. But whatever the exact location, it was undoubt- 
 edly in or near Genoa; and there is no dispute about the fact 
 that, when he applied to that city for assistance in his projects 
 of discovery, he was considered a visionary man, and his appli- 
 cation rejected. 
 
 From the water's edge the hills rise five hundred feet and 
 form a wide semicircle, and when the city limits have been 
 passed they continued to rise to sixteen hundred feet. Stand- 
 ing at the water's brink and looking at them, they seemed a 
 vast amphitheater, and the ten forts upon the loftiest height 
 enhance the effect. The magnificence of the palaces, as semi- 
 private structures, is not equaled in any other city in Italy, or 
 in the world. The best date from the sixteenth century, and 
 
144 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 the contents, including many of the finest works of art, are 
 in harmony with their grandeur. ^\'eeks would have been 
 required for a thorough visitation of the palaces. , Selectino- 
 the Palazzo Rosso, we gave as much time to it as was at our 
 disposal, with the result of being oppressed with the magnifi- 
 cence, the size and number of the rooms, and the displav as- 
 pect of the whole. 
 
 The Cathedral of San Lorenzo was a decided contrast to any- 
 thing which we had seen in France, Spain, or other parts of 
 Europe. In richness of decoration it approaches gaudiness. 
 Among other curious things is a Gothic inscription declaring 
 that Janus, great grandson of Noah, founded Genoa, and that 
 another Janus from Troy settled there. We went into the 
 chapel of St. John the Baptist, the richest part of the church. 
 Until recently women were permitted to go in only once a 
 year, because John's death was brought about by a woman. 
 They claim to show the body (without the head) of John the 
 Baptist. I was interested in this, as there are eighteen heads 
 of John exhibited in different parts of the world. Also, 
 they have the Sacro Catino. This was supposed to be 
 an emerald, but it was taken to Paris, and examination, to- 
 gether wuth the fact that it was broken, showed that it was 
 merely glass. For a long time it was venerated by the people 
 of Genoa, but their faith has been severely shaken. At differ- 
 ent times it has been asserted to be a gift of the Queen of 
 Sheba to Solomon; at others, "the dish which held the pas- 
 chal lamb at the Passover; while others have maintained that 
 it is the vessel in which Joseph of Arimathea received the 
 blood from his Redeemer's side." The date of the foundation 
 of Genoa is obscured in the mists of its antiquity. But a 
 bronze tablet found by a peasant in 1505, and brought into the 
 city to be sold for old metal, confirms its ancientness and im- 
 portance. It contains an award made A. U. C. 633 by Quin- 
 tus Marcus Minutius and Q. F. Rufus, Roman authorities, in 
 settling a dispute between the people of Genoa and the Viturii 
 who had differed about their boundaries and had appealed to 
 the Roman Senate from local decisions. The landmarks are 
 set out definitely, and all restrictions and rights plainly specified. 
 
 After various vicissitudes the city has regained its ancient 
 
Genoa and Milan. 145 
 
 maritime ascendency, and is now the chief seaport of Italy. 
 The people are industrious, energetic, domestic, and their 
 morals good — for an Italian seaport. A peculiar class of insti- 
 tutions, called coiiservatorii (of which there are fifteen or 
 twenty), is worthy of special description. They are designed 
 for women; some are for orphans; others for the children of 
 parents unable to support them. Some are schools; others 
 Magdalene asylums, to reform abandoned women; and others 
 houses of refuge, where unmarried women who have no homes 
 can reside on the payment of a small sum, or, if destitute, 
 gratuitously. 
 
 The finest of all the drives of Genoa is the Via di Circouval- 
 lazione a Monte, a route laid out a few years ago on the hill. It 
 begins at a point three hundred and twenty-eight feet above 
 the sea level, and after traversing the entire city brings the 
 traveler back to the Capucine church, the most sumptuous in 
 the place. 
 
 The Genoese are proud of the Campo Santo on the side of 
 the mount, twenty minutes' drive beyond the city walls. Here 
 the poor are buried in the ground, but the bodies of the 
 wealthy are placed in receptacles arranged in galleries. I have 
 never seen so gorgeous a burial place. The monuments are 
 elaborate, including not only the dead, but the living members 
 of the family. Here is the statue of the husband, in an atti- 
 tude of profound grief, weeping over the body of his wife, 
 both represented life-size. Then the widow and her surviving 
 children, all life-size, gazing horror-struck upon the dead 
 body of the father and husband. There are exquisite monu- 
 ments of little children and of young persons, besides the 
 usual number of figurative representations of Poetry, Grief, and 
 Resignation. Some of these tombs, with their monuments, are 
 represented to have cost a hundred thousand dollars, which 
 would mean a much larger sum in a country where marble is 
 not indigenous and artists not numerous. 
 
 The simplicity of genuine grief is entirely obscured. A pag- 
 eant as ostentatious as any produced on festal days invades the 
 silence and solemnity of the city of the dead and transforms it 
 into a masquerade. 
 
 Ostentation has ruled in Italv from ancient time, and. 
 
146 Travels in Three Con tixents. 
 
 turning from these costly embodiments of it to the humbler 
 burial place of the poor, the same spirit which produced such 
 attempts at rivalry assumes still more grotesque forms. Here 
 were wooden effigies, numerous trinkets, and photographs of 
 the dead — some taken at an early period in the life of the de- 
 ceased, others after his death. The contrasts were as wide 
 as can be seen in the dress, equipage, and residences of the 
 wealthy and of the poor. Among the poor, as among the rich, 
 the violations of good taste appear to result from an effort to 
 contrive something new. 
 
 The tomb which would most attract the attention of for- 
 eigners and probably of patriotic Italians, is that of Mazzini, 
 the chief leader of the revolutionary party, who was born in 
 Genoa in 1808. It is in a conspicuous part of the cemetery. 
 The Genoese also feel an interest in Garibaldi, who, though 
 born in Nice, was the son of a native of Genoa. 
 
 Ancient and modern historians unite in saying that the whole 
 energy of the Genoese has been concentrated on making 
 money. Its influence, though indirect, may not, however, have 
 been less than that of other cities upon the development of 
 art and scholarship; for no country whose cities are devoted 
 exclusively to those things could long afford the means to pro- 
 mote them. Agriculture and commerce are at the foundation 
 of wealth, scholarship, and art. 
 
 Genoa to-day is what it has always been — a superbly beau- 
 tiful city, not the less so because its energies have been chiefly 
 devoted to maritime commerce. 
 
 The beautiful but treacherous Mediterranean was soon left 
 behind when we departed from Genoa, but for many miles 
 backward glances were rewarded by vistas of landscape, 
 through which the sea sparkled for an instant and was then 
 obscured by clift's or hills. As we drew near the plain of Lom- 
 bardy, of which the district of Milan is the central portion, 
 the cold winds swept down from the Alps, and snow, in a few 
 moments turning into rain, beat upon the cars. In situation 
 Milan is fortunate, its wants being supplied by the pastures 
 upon the mountains, the vines, fruit trees, the silk culture of 
 the lower declivities, and the corn, wheat, and grass-yielding 
 meadows of the plains. 'J'he meadows produce almost as 
 
o 
 
Genoa and Milan. 149 
 
 many crops as there are months in the year, and form the 
 most thoroughly irrigated district of Europe, where the an- 
 cient paths are still the right of the common people. As in 
 Spain, the peasant can drive his sheep southward, the law 
 allowing him twu hundred feet by the side of the road, su here 
 the right to conduct water across the property of others is 
 recognized. 
 
 To find a city whose population is the same now that it was 
 eitrht centuries ago is unusual. Then it is said Lo have con- 
 tained three hundred thousand inhabitants; eight years ago, 
 exclusive of the suburbs, it was estimated to comprise two 
 hundred and ninety-five thousand five hundred and forty- 
 three. Milan differs from most other Italian cities in the ab- 
 sence of ruins, having been totally destroyed in 1162; five 
 years afterward it was rebuilt. 
 
 Though in the latter part of the fifteenth and the beginning 
 of the sixteenth century, when Leonardo da \'inci lived there, 
 surrounded by eminent pupils, it vied with the other parts of 
 Italy in art, that which attracts most tourists now is the cathe- 
 dral. The site relatively to the immediate surroundmgs is not 
 well chosen, and the facade so unworthy the general plan that 
 it is to be removed. We walked around the building on the out- 
 side, nearly a third of a mile, and were impressed w'ith its vast- 
 ness, dignity, and beauty. There are only two larger churches 
 in Europe — St. Peter's at Rome, and the cathedral at Seville. 
 Begun in 1386, it is not yet completed, and it is said that 
 some of the incongruities which have been criticised resulted 
 from the dissensions and jealousies of the Italian and Northern 
 architects. After the works had been at a standstill for nearly 
 a hundred years, Napoleon ordered them resumed when he 
 made Milan the capital of the kingdom of Italy, and con- 
 structed the tower over the dome. 
 
 The impression was deepened as we stood in the "dim 
 religious lidit " within the nave, which is one hundred and 
 fifty-five feet high, and placed ourselves in different positions 
 among the fifty-two pillars twelve feet in diameter, which, in- 
 stead of having capitals, are adorned with canopied niches 
 containing statues; or traversed the great expanse of pave- 
 ment of mosaics of variegated marbles, and heard the great 
 9 
 
150 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 organ reverberating through the vault above, it appeared as 
 though the w-ealth, art, music, and formal religion of ages 
 were embodied in one colossal personality. 
 
 More detailed examination of the treasures of art did not 
 diminish the effect. Here are the tombs of archbishops, bish- 
 ops, and canons interspersed with Gothic monuments and 
 bronze statues. Upon the walls are line paintings of Scripture 
 scenes. The stained glass of the three choir windows con- 
 tain three hundred and fifty vivid representations of events 
 from the Scriptures, many being copies of celebrated ancient 
 paintings. An altar piece representing Ambrose releasing 
 the Emperor Theodosius from ecclesiastical penalties reminded 
 us of a significant event in early Christian history. A most 
 abhorrent object is a statue of St. Bartholomew, represented 
 as flayed, carrying his skin upon his shoulder. The skin looks 
 more like hippopotamus hide than the cuticle of a human 
 being. The artist considered it superior to anything ac- 
 complished by Praxiteles, and says so in an inscription upon 
 the statue. 
 
 Before one crucifix I paused in " reverent contemplation." 
 It was that which San Carlo Borromeo bore during the plague 
 in 1756, when he went about, barefooted, visiting the sick 
 and comforting the dying. It was not the crucifix that I 
 revered, but the devotion and philanthropy of him who bore 
 it, and of the multitudes of his own and other faiths who, in 
 such times of trial, elevate the human toward the Divine. The 
 tomb of this saint lies below the dome in a subterranean 
 chapel. We paid five francs to see his relics. The crown, 
 jewels, and regalia which he wore were bright by contrast 
 with his fleshless bones. 
 
 The view of, and from, the roof and tower transcended all 
 that we had thus far seen in splendor of effect; for another 
 such roof the wide world cannot exhibit. Among its adorn- 
 ments are ninety-eight Gothic turrets, any one of which would 
 make a church in an American city a marked object. Among 
 these are distributed more than two thousand marble statues, 
 many of eminent men, and as works of art w^orthy of 
 any gallery. Here is the figure of Napoleon, in heroic and 
 ancient costume. On a perfectly safe path we walked the 
 
L-^W- 
 
 
 
 k 
 
 ■ fS^""^*" ^"^^^a^ 
 
 
 
 interior oi Cathedral. 
 
Genoa and Milan.' 
 
 153 
 
 entire length of the roof, and contemphited such of the 
 statues as interested us. We had already ascended one hun- 
 dred and ninety-four steps within the edifice, and then began 
 the three hundred steps outside. 
 
 When the summit was reached the prospect Avas dazzling. 
 We looked upon the roof, upon the buildings surrounding the 
 cathedral, dwarfed by its massiveness into huts; upon the 
 pygmies walking in the squares. The roar of the city was 
 like that upon the ocean shore. A little beyond lay the noble 
 city of Milan, upon a plateau nearly four hundred feet above 
 the level of the sea, and gradually sloping for miles. The 
 entire plain, being covered with snow, sparkled and flashed 
 in the sunlight with blinding effect. But it was on looking 
 toward the Alps, from sixty to one hundred miles distant, 
 that we could scarcely believe our eyes. A little south of 
 west, Mont Cenis, through which the great tunnel was cut, ap- 
 pears; then Mont Blanc, 
 
 "... the monarch of mountains ; 
 They crowned him long ago, 
 On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, 
 With a diadem of snow," 
 
 stood up as though but a few hours' walk from us. I had 
 looked down, years before, from very near its summit upon 
 this plain; now I looked up at it. Next was the Great St. 
 Bernard, on which in October, 1863, I slept in the midst of a 
 howling snowstorm; but the next morning, the storm having 
 ceased, beheld the vast expanse of northern Italy. 
 
 This was not all, for Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn, with 
 the taunt'ng beauty and beckoning hand which have led so 
 many to death, reared themselves against the early morning 
 sky, and when our eyes could no longer bear t!:e brilliancy of 
 the stupendous masses of snow, we turned to the far east and 
 saw, in the background behind the city of Pavia, through 
 which we had passed a few days before, the dark Apennines. 
 Much nearer were the mountains about Lake Como, and 
 these, on account of their proximity, seemed higher than the 
 others. 
 
J24 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 i did not wonder that an epidemic of suicides from that 
 lofty height had compelled the making of a regulation that no 
 visitor could be allowed to ascend alone. The watchman in- 
 formed us that forty persons had killed themselves by leaping 
 into the square. There is an insanity of height, and many 
 who never meant to kill themselves have leaped from lofty 
 summits. Morbid vanity appeals to cranks, imitation multi- 
 plies the number^ and many who are neither cranks, insane, 
 nor morbidly vain are conscious, when in such positions, of an 
 almost irresistible impulse to leap. 
 
 But Milan has much besides the Duomo to please and in- 
 struct the visitor. The church of San Ambrogio was founded 
 in the fourth century by Ambrose on the ruins of an old 
 heathen temple dedicated to Bacchus. 
 
 In this building the Lombard kings and German emperors 
 were crowned with the iron crown, and the old pillar on which 
 they took the oath still stands. Here is buried Pepin, the 
 son of Charlemagne, and, it is claimed, Ambrose himself. 
 Besides there are many fine churches, and palaces without 
 number filled with paintings and statues. 
 
 The gallery of Victor Emmanuel, an octagon, with a cupola 
 of great height, is adorned with frescoes representing Europe, 
 Asia, Africa, and America. It also contains twenty-four 
 statues of famous Italians, among them names with which the 
 educated world is familiar: Cavour, Marco Polo, Raphael, 
 Galileo, Dante, Michael Angelo, Columbus, Savonarola. The 
 monument of Leonardo da A'inci, and the statue of Cavour 
 in another part of the city, and especially a bronze statue of 
 Napoleon the First, as Roman Emperor, by Canova, are works 
 of the highest order. Cavour's statue, in the plaza named 
 after him, is made impressive by an elevated pedestal of the 
 finest granite. 
 
 The Milanese think their cemetery superior to that of Genoa, 
 I cannot tell how it would have pleased me had I not been 
 disgusted with the display style of grief in the former city. 
 Nor was our opportunity so favorable, as the snow was melt- 
 ing, compelling a very hurried passage over some of its more 
 splendid avenues. Cremation is gaining ground there, and 
 the Tempio di Crcmazione has been admitted to the cemetery. 
 
Monument of Leonardo da Vinci. 
 
Genoa and ISIilan. 157 
 
 On our way to that part of the city we saw the great parade 
 ground, nearly half a mile square, and the arena, built under 
 Napoleon the First, large enough to accommodate thirty 
 thousand spectators. Also, the Triumphal Arch, of white 
 marble, begun by Napoleon the First as a termination of the 
 Simplon route, the first carriage road from Switzerland to 
 Italy over the Alps, and made by his order. 
 
 It is said that no town in Italy, since the union of the entire 
 country in one kingdom, has undergone such improvement as 
 Milan. A new Protestant church, erected by the Methodist 
 Episcopal Missionary Society of the United States, then rap- 
 idly approaching completion, was shown us by Signor Ravi, 
 the acting minister; — a solid, well-situated, churchly structure, 
 seating three hundred, with rooms for meetings and residence 
 for janitor and pastor. 
 
1^8 Travels ix Three Cox i ixkxts. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Venice — The Enchanted City. 
 
 History — Situation — Piazza and Church of San Marco Tomb of St. Mark — 
 
 Palace of the Doges — Roman Catholic Mission Church — Grand Canal — 
 Campanile — View from the Top of the Tower. 
 
 Vexice had already begun a career whose glory throws a 
 halo over it to this day, when in the year 828 a Venetian fleet 
 brought the body of St. Mark to that place, and the republic 
 adopted him as its peculiar saint, naming its highest official 
 "the Procurator of St. Mark." It was in the zenith of its 
 glory when, by the conquest of Constantinople, it divided the 
 Byzantine empire, captured the entire coast of the Adriatic, 
 and the Levant from Durazzo to Trebizond, and nearly all the 
 islands of the Greek Archipelago, the whole of Dalmatia, much 
 of the mainland of Greece, and held the entire coast from the 
 Po to the island of Corfu, besides having conquered, one after 
 another, in a hundred and fifty years, Treviso, Vicenza, Padua, 
 Verona, Udine, Brescia, Bergamo, Crema, and Rovigo; 
 when it monopolized the commerce of India, whose produc- 
 tions were brought through the north of Persia, the Euphrates, 
 and the Tigris to Bagdad, thence by camels across the desert 
 to Palmyra, and thence by sea. The annual espousing of the 
 city as " Queen of the Adriatic " was then more than an ideal 
 ceremony, performed by the Doge on Ascension Day, ac- 
 companied by all the nobility and foreign representatives in 
 gondolas, dropping a ring into the sea from the state barge. 
 In 1797 this ostentatious but" poetic and pathetic usage was 
 omitted for the first time in nearly a thousand years. But the 
 commercial supremacy of Venice is gone; and, though its 
 business is still considerable, it is "as a glorious relic of past 
 greatness that the railway-shaken tourist turns with infinite re- 
 lief from the prosperous cities of Europe to its thousand en- 
 joyments." 
 
 The best description of the situation of Venice is St. Peter's 
 
(TO 
 
 o 
 
 D 
 
 o 
 
 p 
 
 3 
 
 a. 
 O 
 
 (a 
 3 
 P 
 
Venice — The Exchaxted City. i6i 
 
 reference to the world at the time of the flood, "the earth 
 standing out of the water, and in the water." So 
 
 "... from out llie waves her structures rise 
 As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand." 
 
 We arrived at night, and gUded to the hotel in a black, rak- 
 ish-looking gondola, silently as an assassin might wish to pass 
 away from the scene of his crime. The Hotel Victoria is 
 cheerless and ill kept, equally damaging to the reputation of 
 those who keep and those who recommend it ; though the 
 temperature was very low, there was but one fire accessible 
 to the guests; the reading room was unlighted, the table poor, 
 the servants stupid, the proprietor surly, the guests, of whom 
 there were but five, disgusted. We departed as soon as the 
 sun was up the next morning. 
 
 Some of the finest cities in the world are situated upon 
 islands, but this rests upon one hundred and seventeen, of 
 which three only are large. One hundred and fifty canals are 
 thus formed, which are spanned by nearly four hundred 
 bridges. Xot a horse, or a vehicle larger than a handcart, did 
 we see in exploring the w'hole citJ^ The hum of moving feet 
 and w^heels, which in other places often rises to a roar, is here 
 unheard. 
 
 The lagoons are protected from the open sea, but are about 
 equally divided into two classes, the names of w^hich are sug- 
 gestive : the lagtiiid viva; in it the tide rises and falls every 
 day; and the laguna iiiorta, which is not affected by the tide. 
 Venice, of course, is in the former class. Stagnant pools are 
 everywhere laguna morta. 
 
 The gondolas are quaint, have a low canopy and a seat 
 made of leather, accommodating three or four persons, and, 
 according to an old law are painted black. Besides these is 
 a barca which accommodates twice as many; it has a long, 
 heavy, iron prow. There are omnibus boats, which no one 
 would be likely to take unless oppressed by poverty. The 
 speed of all is less than that of an ordinary walk. On the 
 Grand Canal small steamboats ply during the day. The rates 
 of fare are not high. While making the tour of the Grand 
 Canal I saw w-hv Stockholm is called the \'enice of the North. 
 
i62 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The situations of the two cities are similar, though the waters 
 of Stockholm are clearer and more sparkling. 
 
 A common error is the notion that it is possible to explore 
 Venice by boats only. Most of the houses rise from the canals, 
 or are very near them, but almost every place can be reached on 
 foot, and it is impossible to see the most characteristic parts, 
 and to become acquainted with the habits of the common 
 people in any other way. I noticed that there was a sunset 
 aspect to everything but the inhabitants, who were vivacious 
 and active. It was a noble, but wrinkled, rather than youthful, 
 face that smiled. We found much complaint of a temporary 
 depression of business. 
 
 The chief rendezvous for the people when at leisure is the 
 Piazza of San Marco. I have nowhere seen a more majestic 
 square; for on three sides rise great structures which seem like 
 one. Of white marble, they are black with age and expo- 
 sure. In the glorious times the highest ofificials, next below 
 the doge in rank, dwelt there; now they are used for various 
 general purposes, and the ground floors are occupied by cafes 
 and shops. 
 
 Here the military bands play on Sundays, Mondays, Wed- 
 nesdays, and Fridays, in the summer evenings; in the winter, 
 from two to four. The square, when we were there, was 
 crowded as though a score of churches had poured their con- 
 gregations into it, and the beauty and wealth of Venice min- 
 gled with the proletariat. One of the curiosities of Venice is 
 a flock of pigeons, perfectly tame, which are fed by officials. 
 These are the descendants of the carrier pigeons which gave 
 intelligence to Admiral Dandolo when he was besieging the 
 island of Candia. After the conquest he sent the birds to 
 Venice, carrying the news of his success. The people revere 
 them, and would tear in pieces anyone who should wantonly 
 treat them with disrespect. 
 
 The Church of San Marco is more oriental in appearance 
 than most existing edifices in the East; but it is really compos- 
 ite. A church in the shape of a Greek cross, having three 
 Byzantine domes and several Gothic features, is somewhat con- 
 fusing. Four horses in gilded bronze, once upon the Tri- 
 umphal Arch of Nero, then upon that of Trajan, afterward 
 
Bridge of Sighs. 
 
Venice — The Enchanted City. 165 
 
 taken to Constantinople, and finally by Napoleon to Paris, 
 where for a few years they adorned the triumphal arch in the 
 Place du Carrousel, and then transferred to Venice, are worthy 
 of study, not only for their exquisite execution, but their 
 strange vicissitudes. We lingered long in this cathedral and 
 paid a visit to the tomb of St. Mark, upon the authenticity of 
 which there is very general agreement, to the extent of con- 
 ceding that for centuries before the Venetians brought it here, 
 it had been revered as such. 
 
 The Palace of the Doges, in which we spent half a day, is 
 the only rival of the Cathedral of St. ISlark in historic and 
 artistic attractions. Five times the palace was destroyed, and 
 each time reconstructed more magnificently than ever, and it 
 was then being repaired on an extensive scale. We stood 
 where the republic caused its death sentences to be announced. 
 Thence we passed to the point where the decrees of the repub- 
 lic were published ; looked at the prison of the poet. Count 
 Silvio Pellico; went to the steps where the Doges were 
 crowned; studied the multitude of busts of Venetian artists 
 and scholars, perceiving a remarkable dissimilarity which 
 raised a presumption of fidelity; the fact that there are many 
 bald heads among them show that no remarkable change has 
 taken place in the tendency of sedentary habits to produce 
 baldness. 
 
 The gloomy dungeons and torture chamber, with the place 
 of execution for political criminals, furnished sufficient of the 
 morbid. We passed over the famous Bridge of Sighs of which 
 Byron speaks: 
 
 " I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Siglis ; 
 A palace and a prison on eacli hand ;" 
 
 and Howells refers to the same as "that pathetic swindle — 
 the Bridge of Sighs." 
 
 After leaving the Hotel Victoria we secured rooms at the 
 Hotel Europa, which was formerly the Palazzo Giustiniani. I 
 have had my hair brushed by machinery in the palace of Car- 
 dinal Wolsey in London, and havejodged in this magnificent 
 specimen of the style of the fifteenth century at ordinary hotel 
 rates — sic transit gloria iniindi. 
 
1 66 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The church after San Marco in order of importance is that 
 in which the Doges are buried. It has been called the West- 
 minster Abbey of Venice. 
 
 On Sunday we entered a Roman Catholic mission church, 
 which bore the sign over the door "Welcome." As we passed 
 in we were notified that indulgences could be obtained on 
 reasonable terms. The building was crowded, and the de- 
 meanor of the worshipers devout. As we passed out an acro- 
 bat came from an alley, gave a few specimens of his power, 
 and called the people to witness further exhibitions in an adja- 
 cent building. Punch and Judy was being performed not far 
 from the spot. In a wine shop a fierce fight was in progress. 
 Three men were ejecting two who were fighting, and these 
 fought all about the square for some minutes, and though it 
 looked as though one was intent to kill the other, no serious 
 damage was done, and no police appeared to quell the disturb- 
 ance. 
 
 The ride on the Grand Canal exhibits a succession of pal- 
 aces and other public buildings, mosaic manufactures, acad- 
 emies, magazines of antiquities, courts, municipal offices, 
 warehouses, churches, monasteries, and edifices made cele- 
 brated by eminent persons who were born or died there. The 
 house in which Catharine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, was born, 
 is now a pawm ofifice. One of the prominent buildings on the 
 canal is the Palace Vendramin Calergi. It was in this house 
 that Richard Wagner died ten years ago. 
 
 We ascended the Campanile, three hundred and tw^enty-two 
 feet in height, covered with marble, and surmounted by an 
 angel sixteen feet high. The ascent is more easy than that 
 of any other tower, being by winding inclined planes of thirty- 
 eight bends. The spectacle, inclu-ding all the islands, canals, 
 lagoons, part of the Adriatic, the distant Alps, and the Istrian 
 Mountains that rise above the Adriatic, is Avonderful. The 
 thousandth anniversary of the foundation of this tower had 
 just been celebrated. 
 
 Descending, we took the gondola for the railway station, 
 and bade adieu to the widowed "Queen of the Adriatic." 
 
Florence — Shrine of Art, Science, Literature. 167 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Florence — Shrine of Art, Science, Literature. 
 
 Famous Artists and Scientists — Situation of Florence — Cathedral — Church of 
 Santa Croce — Monasteryof St. Mark — Fiesole — Ruins and Views — Galileo's 
 Tower — The " Golden Book." 
 
 Florence is the birthplace of Dante, by whom, with his 
 expounder, Boccaccio, the Italian language was formed, en- 
 riched, and systematized: — Dante, declared by Mr. Gladstone 
 to be the greatest moral educator of the modern world. 
 Florence was the center of the Renaissance; here Lorenzo il 
 Magnifico was equally famous as statesman, poet, and patron 
 of art and science; here was begotten that worship of the 
 antique, which placed on the pedestal from which indifferent 
 and depraved taste had cast it down, the genius of ancient 
 Greece and Rome in poetry, eloquence, painting, sculpture, 
 and architecture. Among its glories are that here Giotto in 
 painting, and Donatello in sculpture, prepared the way for 
 Raphael and Michael Angelo; made more illustrious by the 
 period when Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, and Raphael 
 were contemporaneous in Florence, and their pupils and im- 
 itators, of the most distinguished abilities, from all parts of 
 the world, filled the city. And if these masters had not lived, 
 there were other sculptors, painters, and architects who would 
 have elevated Florence above the other cities of Italy. 
 
 Turning from arts to science, the traveler may visit the 
 Tribuna, commemorative of Galileo, and behold the frescoes 
 which represent him as studj'ing the pendent lamp, whose 
 swaying suggested to him the philosophy of the pendulum, ex- 
 pounding the telescope before the Doge and Council of Ten at 
 Venice, and demonstrating to his pupils the movements of the 
 stars. He may then enter one of the galleries and view the 
 statues of the great men who were born in Florence, or 
 studied and flourished there, and he will acknowledge that this 
 has been preeminently the center and source of intellectual life 
 and light. 
 
i68 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Never had clustered gems so fine a setting — in the heart 
 of Tuscany, between the Apennines and the Mediterra- 
 nean, in a valley watered by the Arno, surrounded by gentle 
 
 
 Duomo of Florence. 
 
 slopes, noble hills, and at no great distance more imposmg 
 heights, which protect it from extremes of heat and cold. Had 
 its glory been foreseen the site could not have been more 
 
Florence — Shrine of Art, Science, Literature. 169 
 
 artistically chosen. Its palaces, piazzas, squares, monuments, 
 parks, and private residences, with their lavish but nut gaudy 
 decoration, everywhere " betray the work of generation after 
 generation of ingenious men. " That strange people, the 
 Etruscans, who came from an unknown quarter, and exerted 
 so strong an influence upon the civilization of Europe, settled 
 here, whence the name of the whole region — Tuscany. They 
 spread the knowledge of writing and the mechanical arts, and 
 one of the most interesting collections in Florence is the 
 Etruscan Museum. 
 
 The Florentines intended that the cathedral should surpass 
 all preceding structures. It was designed by Arnolfo del 
 Gambia, ^^"hen he died work ceased until Giotto was re- 
 quested to complete it; he did not live to do so, and it was 
 intrusted to Brunelleschi. One hundred and twenty-two years 
 after it was begun, a public competition of models for the 
 dome was announced, the result of which was the construction 
 of a dome exceeding all others in diameter, and which was se- 
 lected by Michael Angelo as the model for that of St. Peter's 
 in Rome. Its style is Gothic, modified by the Italian school. 
 One's impression on entering is that the building is nearly 
 empty, but its size transforms surprise into a sense of grandeur. 
 The noble pavement and the exquisite stained glass windows 
 render the effect still more satisfactory. The building is a 
 vast gallery of painting and sculpture. Here are the mon- 
 ument of Krunelleschi and his portrait in marble, the bust 
 of Giotto, monuments and portraits of St. Matthew, St. 
 James, St. Philip, and St. James the Great, statues of St. 
 John, St. Peter, and St. Luke. A scientific curiosity is a 
 round marble slab, put in position in the year 1450 by a math- 
 ematician of Florence, for observations of the sun through an 
 orifice in the dome. 
 
 We climbed the bell tower, with its decorations of colored 
 marble, magnificent windows, statues, frescoes, and series of 
 bas-reliefs, representing the development of mankind from the 
 creation to the culmination of Christian civilization: the cre- 
 ation of Eve; Adam and Eve at work in the garden; dwell- 
 ers in tents; and, finally, astronomers, riders, weavers, navi- 
 gators, agriculturists, are portrayed. Arts are represented by 
 
lyo Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 figures of Phidias, Apelles, Orpheus, Plato, Aristotle, Ptole- 
 my, Euclid. Donatus, and an unknown musician. The view 
 from the summit made us forget the climb of four hundred 
 and fourteen steps. 
 
 Interesting as is the cathedral, the Church of Santa Croce 
 surpasses it. It has been called the Pantheon of modern 
 
 Italy. 
 
 " In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie 
 
 Ashes which make it holier; dust which is 
 Even in itself an immortality, 
 
 Though there was nothing save the past and this, 
 The particle of those sublimities 
 
 Which have relapsed to chaos : here repose 
 Angelo's, Alfieri's bones, and his, 
 
 The starry Galileo, with his woes; 
 
 Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose." 
 
 Tombs of statesmen, scholars, poets, architects, and com- 
 posers, and the innumerable multitude of masterpieces of dif- 
 ferent artists, make the church a place for delightful and 
 protracted visits. In the refectory is a beautiful painting 
 of the Last Supper, and another of the Crucifixion. The 
 Tribunal of the Inquisition held its sittings in this room. 
 A crucifix by Donatello, executed in competition with Bru- 
 nelleschi, is striking in its history and in itself. In front of 
 the building is the monument of Dante, nineteen feet high, 
 standing on a pedestal twenty-three feet, which was un- 
 veiled on the six hundredth anniversary of his birth. May 
 14, 1865. 
 
 At the Monastery of St. Mark, no longer used as such, but 
 fitted up as a museum, we entered the cells occupied by 
 Savonarola. His portrait by Fra Bartolommeo, also an inmate 
 of the monastery, his bronze bust, his crucifix and autographs, 
 and a copy of an old picture representing his execution, were 
 shown. Afterward we went to the spot where he was burned, 
 now covered by a fountain, erected at the north corner of the 
 Palazzo Vecchio, sixty-six years after the tragedy, in the 
 great hall of which there is a reminder of the temporary in- 
 fluence which Savonarola exerted. This hall, constructed 
 three years before his death for the council which had been in- 
 creased in numbers by his partisans, is large enough to have 
 
Floren'ce — Shrine of Art, Science, Literature. 171 
 
 accommodated the sessions of the Italian Parliament twenty- 
 five years ago. 
 
 After several days spent in the galleries and palaces of 
 Florence I found my eyes "dim with excess of light," and my 
 mind in a confused state — basins of porphyry, portraits of 
 Samson, banners of Italian cities, mosaics, and ceilings painted 
 in imitation of mosaics, Judith and Holofernes, Madonnas and 
 saints without number, the Magi, Venus, Bacchus, St. Paul, 
 Caesar, tombs, cherubs, Laocobns, satyrs with gaps in their 
 teeth, cupids on a dolphin, Amazons fighting, small gray birds 
 with red crests, heads of the Medusa, death of A^irgin Mary, 
 angels with mandolin, massacre of innocents, Luther's wife, 
 kings on horseback, gamblers struck by lightning, columns of 
 oriental alabaster, vases of rock crystal, portraits of popes and 
 cardinals and of Pluto, men with apes upon their shoulders, 
 boar hunts, ancient bronze helmets, spurs, lamps, old manu- 
 scripts, vaulted aisles and statues of the archangel Michael, 
 all thrown together, with the names of A^an Dyck, Rubens, 
 Correggio, Raphael, Da Vinci, and Titian indiscriminately ap- 
 plied. I was positively intoxicated with art. But after a few 
 days my vision clarified, and there came out a score of paint- 
 ings and statues as distinctly impressed upon the mind's eye 
 as vivid perception of the physical organs. All the rest is lost 
 in the milky wa}' of finite memory. 
 
 An excursion to the town of Fiesole, " old when Rome was 
 in its infancy," was delightful. On the way we saw mag- 
 nificent villas, one of which was the residence of the Earl of 
 Crawford. This is made by Boccaccio the residence of the 
 narrators in his Decameron, a book which has an interest for 
 students of English (polluted, however, by all the vices of its 
 age and people), for it was the model of Chaucer's Canterbury 
 Tales. We passed' a favorite villa of Lorenzo il Magnifico, as- 
 cended the hill bv an excellent road, and found manv Etruscan 
 ruins; also the wall, the entrance of a theater, of which six- 
 teen tiers of stone seats in a semicircle thirty-seven yards in 
 diameter remain. We divided our company of three into 
 speaker and audience and tried the acoustic and spectacular 
 properties, which were so fine that ten thousand persons must 
 have been able to see and hear. The old monasterv and the 
 
172 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 cathedral are worth the climb, but the glory of the place is its 
 ruins and the lovely prospect. 
 
 We caught a glimpse in the distance of Galileo's Tower. 
 Here he entertained Milton when on a visit to Florence after 
 he became blind, and when many of his former friends 
 neglected him. 
 
 Florence has some strange and other amusing peculiarities. 
 We were shown two of Galileo's Jiiigcrs — one with a ring on it 
 pointing upward, under a glass case; the other, which was 
 stolen from his tomb, is preserved in a bottle in one of the 
 libraries. In one of the churches is a chapel begun in 1604, 
 when Ferdinand the First was on the throne. It is brilliantly 
 frescoed, and has intricate mosaics. Some think it the finest 
 edifice in Florence. It was designed to hold the Holy Sep- 
 ulcher which Ferdinand intended to steal, but his agents were 
 caught when detaching it from the Church of the Holy 
 Sepulcher in Jerusalem, where it now is. 
 
 Here may be seen a painting, by St. Luke, of the Virgin and 
 Child. Luke, the physician, must have been an industrious 
 amateur painter. I saw one of his paintings in Moscow said 
 to have miraculous powers. Over the bronze statue at the en- 
 trance of the Church of Santa Croce are the letters I H S 
 [lesi/s Honiiiium Salvator — Jesus Saviour of Men). These 
 initials were originally placed in front of the church by St. 
 Bernardino. He had expostulated with one of his flock for 
 manufacturing playing cards. The man told him he did not 
 know how to make a living in any other way. The saint "told 
 him to put these letters on his blank cards and sell them." It 
 was successful, and the man soon grew rich. Now they are 
 to be seen in every Roman Catholic church in the world. 
 
 The way in which the funds were raised to construct the 
 beautiful road over which we traveled to Fiesole is entertaining. 
 The inhabitants of Fiesole possess what is called the " Golden 
 Book." Those whose names are enrolled in it become nobles, 
 and the money was raised by issuing patents of nobility. Three 
 hundred dollars would buy a title, coat of arms, and seal. 
 " Several Englishmen have invested, and numerous Americans." 
 Mr. Spurgeon satirizes the efforts of families without any 
 genealogy to find one, by saying that he has looked up his an- 
 
Florence — Shrine of Art, Science, Literature. 173 
 
 cestry and found that "he is descended from a gardener who 
 robbed his master and lost his situation, and the less said 
 about it the better." 
 
 Florence affords such unsurpassed facilities to students of 
 art that there are colonies from all civilized nations. Its hotels, 
 pensions, and caf6s are numerous and fine. Many of the 
 Tuscans rent their villas to men of wealth from foreign na- 
 tions. One of these residents informed me that a man knows 
 absolutely nothing about Florence unless he has lived there 
 five years. Subsequently I learned that he had been there five 
 years and one week. 
 10 
 
174 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 Rome — The Encyclopedic City. 
 
 Glance at Rome's History — Seven Hills — Tiber — Pantheon — Column of 
 Marcus Aurelius — Grand Circus — Forum — Arch of Constantine — Appian 
 Way — Mamertine Prison — Catacombs — Augustinian Monastery — Capucine 
 Cemetery — St. Peter's — Palace of the Vatican — Sistine Chapel — St. Paul 
 Without the Walls — New Rome. 
 
 It is impossible to anticipate at what time or place will be 
 felt the mystic thrill, the soul of the traveler's emotion. Some- 
 times it is when he catches a glimpse of land after a long 
 voyage; again when the towers or spires of a famous city rise 
 upon the horizon; or it may be when the feet for the first time 
 tread historic or consecrated ground; or when the hand clasps 
 that of the friend who has beckoned us across the sea. My 
 thrill was not on first seeing Rome, which was at midnight, 
 but when more than three hundred miles north of it, en route 
 to another city, in a railway station I saw one of the ordinary 
 placards hung upon coaches, "Train for Rome." Then the 
 thought flashed, "You are within a few hours' ride of 'The 
 Mistress of the ^^'orld,' 'The Imperial City,' 'The Eternal 
 City,' 'The Capital of Ancient Civilization.' 'The Capital of 
 the World,' 'The City of Cities,' 'The City of the Soul.'" 
 
 AVeeks afterward, on arriving, I rode in a rumbling coach 
 from the station to the hotel with no more sense of the extraor- 
 dinary than would have been felt in any one of a thousand 
 stone-paved cities. When I went forth the next morning the 
 history of the old Roman world rose before me, and for days 
 I was in a kind of mnemonic trance, which made the long 
 gone past seem present; for the historic memory may be as 
 vivid as that of experience. I saw the legendary kings appear, 
 becoming more distinctly outlined as myth gave place to his- 
 tory, and Tarquin the Elder, and the noble Servius Tullius 
 stamped their individualitv upon the city. Then I witnessed 
 the ignominious expulsion of Tarquin the Superb, whose 
 
im^ : 
 
 1 
 
 ■*wH8»ppr!f 
 
 «*> 
 
 1 
 
 I> 
 
 i 
 
 i3 
 
 1 i» 
 
 .^:S 
 
Rome — The Encyclopedic City. 177 
 
 t3Tann3' became insupportable. I was present at the birth of 
 the republic, saw it give way to a dictatorship, to the tri- 
 bunes and the decemvirs, and finally resume its sway under 
 consuls, who made it the most wonderful power the world 
 ever knew. I stood by when Julius Caesar was assassinated, 
 heard him gasp, '^Et tii. Brute," and listened to Mark Antony's 
 funeral oration. I saw Augustus the Magnificent, Tiberius the 
 Saturnine, Caligula the Vindictive; witnessed the burning of 
 Rome, and heard Nero's fiddle. I saw Titus the Obstinate, 
 Domitian the Persecutor, Trajan the Grand, Hadrian the Os- 
 tentatious, Marcus Aurelius the Magnanimous, Constantine 
 the Great, Julian the Apostate, Theodosius the Christian. 
 Finally I looked on while the Western Empire crashed into 
 fragments. As these events passed in panoramic vision, each 
 ruin took its place as naturally as milestones on a turnpike, 
 and aroused the emotions of a lifetime, which could be caused 
 to vibrate by the countless chords which Rom^e has touched 
 through literature, law, and religion. 
 
 The Seven Hills were easily identified, although in one or 
 two instances accumulated debris had almost obliterated the 
 intervening valley; and schoolbo}' translations that were per- 
 plexing were clarified as the Capitoline, Palatine, Aventine, 
 Caelian, Esquiline, Viminal, and Quirinal hills asserted them- 
 selves. The location of the Tarpeian Rock, over which the 
 condemned were thrown by the ancient Romans, cannot be 
 established. "Eather Tiber" was as muddy as in ancient 
 days, but much smaller, for then seagoing vessels came to 
 Rome; but with the destruction of the forests its water sup- 
 plies were cut off, and now it is navigable but a short distance 
 from the sea. The tomb of the Scipios recalled the ever-ro- 
 mantic story of that greatest of Roman families, their exploits, 
 and the magnificence of their triumphs. I looked upon it, and 
 heard the slave whisper in the ear of the mightiest, on the day 
 of his triumph: " Scipio, thou art but a man." 
 
 Before the Pantheon I paused on three occasions, mourning 
 the statues and decorations long since destroyed. But its mag- 
 nificent columns of granite, the niches in which stood the 
 statues of Augustus and his son-in-law, the hall lighted from 
 above, speak of the grandeur of ancient Roman conception as 
 
tyS Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 no description can. The tombs of Raphael and Victor 
 Emmanuel relax, rather than deepen the solemnity. 
 
 The noble column of Marcus Aurelius recalled a reiffn 
 among the most ideal in profane history. As 1 gazed upon it, 
 indignation arose against the pope who crowned it with a 
 statue of St. Paul, who needs no stolen honors. The Trium- 
 phal Arch of Titus, with its bas-reliefs describing battle 
 scenes, not omitting the more humane features, brought up 
 the horrors of the siege of Jerusalem, whose overthrow it cele- 
 bi:ates, and the strange prophetic words of Jesus Christ con- 
 cerning it. Trajan's Column, built wholly of marble — not of 
 bronze, as a recent writer erroneously states — is very beautiful; 
 its most pleasing feature being a spiral band, three feet wide 
 and six hundred and sixty feet long, running round the col- 
 umn, containing bas-reliefs of war scenes from the life of Tra- 
 jan, exhibiting machines, animals, and twenty-five hundred 
 human figures. A statue of St. Peter now surmounts it, 
 another instance of barbarous taste. 
 
 A stroll through the Grand Circus, at one time capable of 
 containing a quarter of a million of spectators, suggested the 
 vastness of the population, and the splendor of its entertain- 
 ments. It was found too small, and its capacity was increased 
 to three hundred and eighty-five thousand. The Colosseum 
 expanded before me, as, plan in hand, with the aid of the re- 
 maining walls, I tried to reconstruct the edifice. A third of a 
 mile in circumference, and four stories high, it would seat 
 eighty-seven thousand. But that prodigious structure was 
 reared to furnish the people of Rome with entertainments of 
 the same nature as the Spanish bullfights. Thus original bar- 
 baric instincts thrust themselves through the granite and gold 
 of ancient civilization. 
 
 To me, the Forum with its surroundings seemed the grand- 
 est object in the ancient ruins of Rome. There the great 
 political and oratorical contests took place, and the name of a 
 Roman citizen received its noblest illustration. In the pop- 
 ular assemblies public sentiment was molded, expressed, crys- 
 tallized. There, too, the funerals of the nobility were cele- 
 brated, and in later days it was filled with columns, triumphal 
 arches, statues, and covered with inscriptions recording its 
 
70 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 O 
 
 c 
 3 
 
Rome — The Encyclopedic City. i8i 
 
 history. To it Caesar transferred the orators' tribune which he 
 erected, with a phitform sixty-five feet long and sixteen feet 
 wide, giving the speaker abundance of room to. command the 
 audience by walking from point to point during his address. 
 From it Mark Antony delivered the immortal funeral oration. 
 Standmg here I could trace the sites where most of the great- 
 est events in the history of the city of Rome took place, many 
 of them identified beyond question, and others known to be 
 within the circle of vision. 
 
 The Triumphal Arch of Constantine, independent of its ex- 
 cellent preservation as a ruin, is superior to all other struc- 
 tures of the kind, for it is to the Christian peculiarly sugges- 
 tive, because erected when he declared himself in favor of 
 Christianity, just after his victory over Maxentius; and both 
 for this reason and because it is comparatively recent, nat- 
 urally introduces us to the ecclesiastical structures, institu- 
 tions, legends, and hierarchy which, for so many centuries, 
 have given Christian Rome an influence more far-reaching than 
 that which it had in the olden times. 
 
 I went to the Appian Way, because along it St. Paul 
 journeyed on his way to Rome. It is now dusty, rough, and 
 crowded; but he who "was not ashamed of the Gospel of 
 Christ," and "was ready to preach the Gospel to them that 
 were at Rome also," made it more famous than he who built 
 it or the pagan hosts which marched over it. 
 
 In the Mamertine Prison, a structure which takes us back 
 to the infancy of Rome, St. Peter is, on doubtful authority, 
 declared to have been imprisoned. I descended into the 
 dungeon and saw the spring which Roman Catholic tradition 
 says miraculously burst forth to afford him water to baptize 
 his jailers. He must have been physically ^^pctros, a stone; " 
 for they show where, in falling, his features were imprinted 
 upon the rock. 
 
 From the dazzling sunlight, I entered abruptly into the cat- 
 acombs, and wandered among them until wearied with the 
 grotesque imitations of pagan models. While a few of the 
 inscriptions are devout, coarse pictures of the resurrection of 
 Lazarus, and of Jonah swallowed by the fish, and other Old 
 Testament narratives, exhibit a childish tendency, and justify 
 
i82 . Travels i.\ Three Continents. 
 
 the critics in afifirming that they show and participate in " the 
 precipitate and almost total degradation of art." It is not the 
 place, however, to see the best, as they have been removed 
 to different churches and museums. Thousands of bones, 
 supposed to have miraculous healing properties, have been 
 peddled over Europe. As all sorts of people were buried in 
 the catacombs, it has been truthfully said that it is probable 
 that the bones of the greatest sinners have been exhumed and 
 revered as saints. Twenty-eight wagon loads of bones of 
 saints taken from the catacombs are deposited under the altar 
 in the Pantheon. 
 
 As with the single turn of the key, the Augustinian Mon- 
 astery, in which Luther resided on his critical visit to Rome-, 
 opened a picture gallery in the memory in which are pre- 
 served the battle scenes of his mighty struggles for religious 
 freedom. Indeed, with every step one takes in Rome he treads 
 upon invisible wires that reach through the ages and around 
 the world. 
 
 The Capucine Cemetery is one of the worst specimens of 
 morbid taste. The vaults are filled with human bones made 
 into ornaments of different kinds. There skeletons lie under 
 canopies of bones upon bone couches. It was suggestive of 
 the recent momentous changes when, in answer to a question 
 whether the monks are still buried there, the custodian (himself 
 a monk) said, "It is forbidden by law." The College of the 
 Propaganda, swarming with students from all countries, whom 
 we saw come forth at the close of their recitations, a polyglot 
 band, from whose talk we caught snatches of every language, 
 as they walked along the streets, demonstrates that those Prot- 
 estants who think of Romanism as weakening are dreamers. 
 
 St. Peter's is vast and commanding, but contains a melange 
 of different types of beauty which mar each other; the dome 
 is perfect; the contents so multifarious as to bewilder. The 
 high altar over the tomb of St. Peter, the confessional boxes 
 for the different languages, the sitting statue of St. Peter 
 with one of the feet much worn bv the kisses of devotees, 
 attract attention; but St. John Lateran, where the popes are 
 crowned, is historically more interesting. St. Luke again 
 appears as an artist, and the picture attributed to him, of 
 
Murilio"s Sacred Family. 
 
Rome — The Enxvclopedic Citv. 
 
 1S5 
 
 the Virgin and Child, was carried by Gregory the Great in 
 procession to check the plague in 590. The Church claims 
 to have the cedar table on which the Last Supper was eaten. 
 
 Raphael's Sacred Family. 
 
 The vast palace of the ^'atican, in which millions upon mil- 
 lions believe that the vicegerent of God resides, our party 
 entered, not unmindful of the grandeur and comprehensive- 
 ness of the assumption, the devotion of those v.-ho accept it, and 
 
i86 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 the power of the ancient organization of which the pope is 
 the head. Italy is to-day independent and free, the pope a 
 voluntary prisoner, his dominions politically restricted to these 
 twenty courts and eleven thousand halls, saloons, and apart- 
 ments ! 
 
 The Sistine Chapel and Raphael's Stanza and Loggie are 
 rivals for the palm of modern art. Raphael's Madonna, the 
 invaluable treasure of the picture gallery in Dresden, seems to 
 me to excel in dignity and beauty the frescoes in the Sistine 
 Chapel, the Stanze, the Transfiguration, or any other work of 
 Raphael or of Michael Angelo. 
 
 St. Paul Without the Walls, formerlv held to be the finest 
 church in Rome, but damaged by a fire in 1823, is still a strong 
 competitor with any other ecclesiastical edifice. The critics 
 aftirm that it is now showy, and in many respects unpleasing; 
 but the people praise it. It is an astonishingly conspicuous 
 edifice, but from the Roman point of view churchly. In it on 
 the feast day of St. Paul I heard the finest singing that Rome 
 can produce. A man known as the "Angel of Rome," with 
 a remarkably clear feminine voice, was the principal soprano, 
 and the powerful chorus reverberated through the structure in 
 answering waves of melody. St. Paul is said to be buried 
 here, though it is claimed by some that his body with that of 
 St. Peter, is in St. John Lateran. 
 
 New Rome is a bustling, building, thriving city. The 
 "dead lion " and, not the "living dog," but a young lion are 
 side by side, and the best descriptive title and the shortest 
 that can be given to the two is, Rome — The Encyclopedic 
 City. 
 
Naples — The Wanton Beauty. 187 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Naples — The Wanton Beauty. 
 
 Noted Residents of and Visitors to Naples — ISeauty of Situation — Cathedral 
 — Miracle of Liquefaction- -National Museum — Aquarium — Neapolitan Pe- 
 culiarities and Morals — Corso Garibaldi and Corso Vittorio Emanuele — Im- 
 provements. 
 
 Though Naples is older than Rome, and therefore contem- 
 porary with its history, and of Greek origin, it has few Greek 
 or Roman ruins. Nor is its position in art, Hterature, or 
 science equal to that of any of the important Italian cities. 
 It has "never been able to dispense with the assistance of 
 foreign artists," and the tourist who has been in Venice, Flor- 
 ence, and Rome finds in art comparatively little to interest 
 him in Naples. Relatively to the size of the city, the most 
 populous in the kingdom, there are few fine buildings, the 
 streets generally being narrow and dirty, and the houses 
 high and narrow. Vet, Rome excepted, Naples is the best 
 known and most frequently mentioned city in Italy. Its 
 beauty, vicissitudes, physical and political, extreme liveliness, 
 immorality, and sunny clime account for its fame. The 
 renowned men who have resided here from the earliest times, 
 contribute to its celebrity. It was a favorite resort of Augus- 
 tus. Virgil lived near Naples, there wrote some of his finest 
 poems, and is said to be buried not far from the city. 
 
 It was in the suburbs of Naples that the last monarch of the 
 Western Empire died. In modern times the poet Rogers, Bul- 
 wer, and other noted writers, frequented it. Mr. Gladstone 
 has always greatly admired the city, enjoying its climate, scen- 
 ery, and literary associations. He was there at the time of my 
 visit, receiving high honors; no other Englishman being so 
 popular in Italy as he. Rogers gave loose rein to Pegasus 
 when he wrote of Naples: 
 
 " This region, surely, is not of the earth, 
 Was it not dropped from heaven ? Not a grove. 
 Citron, or pine, or cedar; not a grot. 
 Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine, 
 But breathes enchantment." 
 
1 88 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Among the cities of Europe, in beauty of situation, it has no 
 rival excepting Constantinople. Our hotel (Bristol) is half 
 a mile from the station in the new part of the city, upon a high 
 hill overlooking the bay, the mountains, the old and new towns. 
 
 Naples is on the north side of the bay; three islands sepa- 
 rating it from the sea — Procida, Ischia, and Capri. To the 
 southeast the bay is bounded by Monte San Angelo — as high 
 as Mount Mansfield in Vermont; north of that eminence rises 
 Vesuvius. In fair weather the bay, thus protected, is smooth 
 as glass, bright as polished silver, reflecting the surrounding 
 mountains and the city in an astonishing manner. 
 
 "... Not a cliff but flings 
 On the clear wave some image of delight." 
 
 Whatever the outlook, the Bay of Naples furnishes the ideal 
 of beauty. In storms it is not more grand than other bays, 
 but at sunrise, at sunset, or in midday, it is unsurpassably 
 lovely. 
 
 The cathedral is disappointing. Some of the pictures are 
 striking; others of questionable taste. Christ is represented 
 between St. Januarius and Athanasius. Behind the altar are 
 two bottles reputed to contain the blood of St. Januarius, and 
 that furnish the materials for the far-famed miracle which 
 occurs three times a year — in ^lay, September, and Decem- 
 ber — and is said to last eight days. The legend is that it first 
 liquefied when the body of St. Januarius, who suffered martyr- 
 dom under Diocletian, was brought to Naples in the time of 
 Constantine. The transformation takes place between nine 
 and ten a. m., and the people think that according as the 
 flow is rapid or slow, it is a good or evil omen for the rest of 
 the year. The day of his martyrdom is September 19, and 
 this is the chief festival on these occasions. Also in times of 
 unusual calamity the head of the martyr and the bottles con- 
 taining his alleged blood are solemnly carried to the high altar 
 of the cathedral, when the bottles being brought in contact 
 with the head, the blood which they contain is believed to 
 liquefy, and is elevated before the people as an object of ven- 
 eration, and as a miracle to convince doubters of the truth of 
 Christianity. 
 
Naples — The Wanton Beautv. 189 
 
 The tradition exists that during the reign of Napoleon the 
 priests intended to dispense with the miracle, in order to lead 
 the people to believe that the saint was angry because of the 
 usurpation of Napoleon. The emperor, however, ordered the 
 priests to produce it, and they obeyed. A few of the three hun- 
 dred churches, such as St. Paul or S. Martino, are interesting, 
 but the majority are ordinary. 
 
 1 should have been grievously disappointed in Naples, ex- 
 cept in its natural scenery, but for the astonishing treas- 
 ures in the National Museum, which would make any city fa- 
 mous. Everything capable of shedding light upon ancient 
 Greek civilization, and upon the Roman world in the days of 
 Pompeii and Herculaneum, can here be found : caskets, cook- 
 ing utensils, weapons of war and gladiatorial combats, bronze 
 figures without number, tripods, lamps, candelabra, primitive 
 bas-reliefs, antique vases, marble slabs, drawings, elegant 
 copies of celebrated sculptures and paintings of different 
 epochs ; more than two thousand inscriptions, including curi- 
 ous epitaphs; the Christian inscriptions from the catacombs 
 of Rome and Naples, and especially the collection of marble 
 sculptures, containing hundreds of identified statues of the great 
 men of Greece and Rome. The bust of Homer is declared to 
 be "the finest of all the ideal representations of the blind 
 bard." Burckhardt speaks of it as having given him the high- 
 est idea of Grecian sculpture, and declares that "the aged 
 brow and cheek are instinct with supernatural mental effort 
 and prophetic inspiration." He adds, that these are combined 
 *' with that perfect serenity which ever characterizes the 
 blind." If this refers to the expression, observations in blind 
 asylums "have led me to the conclusion that it is sadness rather 
 than serenity which is seen upon their countenances; if to 
 their dispositions, I have not found reason to think that seren- 
 ity is a special attribute of the blind. 
 
 Among the statues are those of Seneca, Brutus, Cicero, 
 Alexander the Great, Euripides, Demosthenes, Socrates, and 
 Herodotus. An American who attached much importance 
 to physiognomy was in the museum on the same occasion, 
 and spoke of 'the harmony existing between the characters of 
 these men and the expressions given to their countenances by 
 
igo Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 the artists. But, alas for his theory, " many of the busts, both 
 Greek and Roman, are either unknown or erroneously named." 
 
 The Pompeian antiquities and objects of art are of almost in- 
 credible number and variety. We lingered among these a long 
 time, especially over the cabinets containing articles of food 
 and utensils in common use at Pompeii. There is a bottle of 
 oil; a double pan with meat; a glass vessel with barley; a tube 
 of olives; loaves of bread, one of which has stamped upon it 
 the baker's name, Celer, slave of Q. Granius Verus; grain, 
 nuts, pears, figs, onions, most of which would grow if planted, 
 and honeycomb. The collection of coins, equally full, is 
 arranged so as to display the Cxreek, the Roman, the Mediaeval, 
 and the Neapolitan; there are many ancient jewels from 
 Herculaneum and Pompeii, of gold, pearls, and precious stones; 
 chain, bracelets, and pair of earrings found with a female skele- 
 ton in one of the houses of Pompeii; and ancient terra cottas 
 from the same mine of antiquity. 
 
 The Aquarium has the advantage of situation so far south 
 on the Mediterranean, and is unrivaled, containing various 
 species of living coral, several varieties of electric fish, which 
 visitors are allowed to touch, a monstrous devilfish, and other 
 marine monsters. It is under the charge of the Zoological 
 Station, supported by naturalists in all parts of the globe. 
 The governments of Europe and various universities make 
 an annual contribution of about thirteen thousand dollars, 
 in return for which naturalists from those countries are per- 
 mitted the facilities of the institution for the prosecution of 
 investigations. 
 
 The peculiarities of the Neapolitan people, which have 
 caused them to be slightingly spoken of for ages, need care- 
 ful treatment; for the slander of a city is doing by wholesale 
 what speaking evil of individuals does by retail. The nar- 
 rowness of the streets and the open-air life of the poorer 
 classes is a feature of oriental rather than of European life, 
 and is the result of the southern climate, in which the inhab- 
 itants of cities need the protection from the blazing sun afforded 
 by high and close walls. Vice and virtue are crowded together, 
 and shame, the outpost of morals, has little opportunity for 
 development among the lower orders. 
 
Naples — The Wanton Beauty, 191 
 
 PYoni infancy they make public those things which should 
 be kept ])rivate. Pagan vices have been perpetuated as no- 
 where else, and what was charged by St. Paul against the old 
 Roman world has been committed by the vicious from his day 
 until now. 
 
 But what of the morals of the middle and higher classes ? I 
 shall not make baseless charges or affirm that the tales of 
 Boccaccio and La Fontaine concerning Neapolitan morality 
 are as applicable now as when they were written. It was a 
 just rebuke to a writer who affirmed that all the women of 
 Paris are frivolous and false, "If it were so, how could you 
 know?" But a lightness of disposition, which makes pleasure 
 the end of life, is characteristic of the people. Its effects 
 are everywhere evident in the ostentatious splendor of deco- 
 ration of the palaces of the nobility, and the houses of those 
 who emulate them ; in the vanity and coquettish spirit of women 
 of all classes; in the terrible testimony of official statistics; in 
 the pictures that are most popular; the ideals of art most influ- 
 ential; and in the plays and style of acting most in vogue, A 
 common remark is that the women of Naples are the chief 
 source of its moral and social corruption, but it is impossible 
 for women generally to be bad where men are good. 
 
 The climate favors luxury and effeminacy. "The energy 
 and strength of the most powerful nations have invariably 
 succumbed to this alluring influence. Greeks, Oscans, Ro- 
 mans, Goths, Byzantines, Normans, (rermans, and Spaniards 
 have in succession been masters of the place, yet it has rarely 
 attained even a transient reputation in the annals of politics, 
 art, or literature." I observed strong resemblances between 
 the people of Seville and Naples, yet there is one marked 
 difference. Naples is a lively, bustling place; whether one 
 go among the finer business streets, into the region of small 
 shops, or to the quays, all is life and activity. One thing 
 should be said, Naples is not as bad as it once was; at least, 
 a decent regard to the sentiment of the age has led to the 
 concealment of many things which travelers of thirty or fifty 
 years ago described as shamefully public. And other cities 
 have become worse. I believe that to-day Naples is as moral 
 as Vienna. 
 
192 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 " Vedi Napoli e poi iiiori. " 
 
 "See Naples, and then die!" Yea, I have seen Naples and 
 shall die, and so will those who do not see it. The signifi- 
 cance of this vain proverb is that, after having seen Naples, 
 there is no hope of seeing anything so fine in this world. But 
 beautiful as sunset is on the Bay of Naples, it did not sur- 
 pass, if it equaled, one that I enjoyed on Lake Champlain. 
 
 In the United States we have a thousand beauteous lakes 
 and noble and pleasant bays in every variety of climate, but 
 they are without the historic associations which have made 
 Naples famous, nor are they accessible, as it is, to the peoples 
 of many nations. 
 
 Probably the greatest day in the history of Naples was the 
 7th of October, i860, when, side by side. King Victor Emman- 
 uel and Garibaldi entered Naples. Their names are perpetu- 
 ated by the Corso Garibaldi and the Corso Vittorio Ei/ianiteic, 
 the latter as a work of engineering is no mean accomplish- 
 ment, being carried by windings and viaducts around the hills 
 of St. Elmo and the Posilippo. The genuineness of Virgil's 
 Tomb is doubtful, but we learn from his own works that he 
 composed the Georgics and the ^neid on the Posilippo, where 
 he had a villa. 
 
 Our ride through the worst parts of the city left no room 
 for wonder at the devastation of the plague nor at the preva- 
 lence of vice; but in a short time the traveler will find Naples 
 one of the cleanest municipalities upon the globe. Plans had 
 then been adopted for the destruction of seven thousand 
 houses and sixty-two churches in the most populous and squalid 
 sections of the citv. 
 
 Among the objects to be destroyed were the monuments of 
 twenty kings and sixty viceroys. Where more than a hundred 
 and eighty thousand people, or six hundred to the acre, have 
 been crowded, fine, broad streets will be laid out, and well- 
 built houses erected. These improvements had been in con- 
 templation ever since the awful cholera epidemic of 1884, but 
 the final arrangements were not perfected until a few months 
 before. I may add that twelve thousand laborers were set to 
 work on the first day of July, 1889, and the improvements 
 were expected to take four years. 
 
Vesuvius and Pompeii, 193 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 Vesuvius and Pompeii. 
 
 Ascent of Vesuvius — At the Summit — History of the A^olcano — Edge of the 
 Crater — The Descent — Pompeii — Streets — Houses — Baths — Theater — 
 Pathetic Discoveries. 
 
 I HAD never seen in action a volcano which had been 
 seriously destrtictive to the works or lives of men, and felt an 
 intense ctn-iosity to see Vesuvius, the most active volcano, 
 standing in territory occupied by civilized man; the most de- 
 structive and historically noteworthy, though by no means the 
 loftiest; the most strikingly situated, frequently observed and 
 investigated by science. 
 
 AVhile I was in Algiers a cable dispatch announced that 
 Vesuvius showed signs of activity; and soon another stated 
 that it was in a state of eruption. It was too much to ex- 
 pect — and since none can foretell the results of its action, 
 hardly the thing to desire — that the display should continue 
 until our arrival. But at 10 o'clock, on our first evening in 
 Naples, I stepped out upon the roof of the hotel and saw in 
 the darkness what seemed like incessant flashes of heat light- 
 ning rising perpendicularly, apparently within a few hundred 
 yards. A guest informed me that it was the lurid light of 
 Vesuvius, but the feeblest display which had been seen for 
 many nights, owing to dense clouds. The next day was 
 stormy, and not till the fourth was the weather suitable for an 
 ascent. 
 
 A railroad extends to within a hundred and fifty yards of the 
 edge of the crater. It was out of order, whereof I was glad, 
 for " though the spirit was willing the flesh was weak," and we 
 might have yielded to the temptation to ride luxuriously to 
 the summit. After going by train to the station, horses were 
 procured near Torre Annunziata. Our route led across a 
 plain three or four miles long, gradually ascending until a 
 height of twenty-four hundred feet was attained. Much of it 
 
194 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 was covered with grass, other parts being carefully cultivated. 
 All around were evidences of peaceful security, and only the 
 mysterious crust of lava, heaps of slag, and loose ashes would 
 suggfest anything extraordinary. The cone rises twelve or 
 fifteen hundred feet above the place where horses are left. 
 It consists of disintegrated lava, ashes, and a material much 
 like writing sand in color and appearance, and resembles an 
 old-fashioned cone of loaf sugar. 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 Vesuvius and Pompeii. 
 
 To ascend is difficult, requiring an hour and a quarter of la- 
 borious climbing. Subterranean detonations, resembling dis- 
 tant thunder and causing a perceptible trembling of the earth, 
 made it impossible not to realize that we were walking over 
 fiery abysses and approaching "the Forge of Vulcan." 
 
 Dense masses of smoke and hot vapors of a sulphurous 
 odor rendered the summit invisible. As we drew nearer these 
 vapors burst at our feet from fissures in the lava. Suddenly the 
 guide, hastening forward a few feet, declared that this was the 
 work of the last twenty-four hours. There upon the earth 
 
\'isrvius AND Pompeii. 195 
 
 was the fresh yellow discharge, still too hot to be taken up in 
 the hand. I supposed it to be sulphur, but found it to consist 
 of lava colored by chloride of iron. That which I brought 
 away turned black within six hours. 
 
 Lines of demarcation were easily traced between the lava 
 deposits of different eruptions. The rocks were sooty and 
 would crumble easily. The effect of the eruptions changes the 
 height of the mountain, which varies from thirty-nine hundred 
 to forty-three hundred feet. The ancient summit was de- 
 stroyed in the first recorded outbreak. We paused a moment 
 for rest before the final ascent to the edge of the crater. The 
 smoke was suffocating, unpleasantly affecting our throats and 
 innermost parts of the breathing apparatus, and it was as dark 
 as a London fog. 
 
 During that pause I reviewed the history of this mountain of 
 terror. In the time of Augustus it was merely conjectured, 
 from the ashes on the summit, that it might have been a 
 volcano, but that, if so, its fires were extinct. In 63 and 
 64 A. D. fearful earthquakes destroyed that hope. But on 
 August 24, 79, took place that appalling eruption, the first 
 recorded, which destroyed Herculaneum and Pompeii and af- 
 frighted the world. Down to the year 1500 nine eruptions are 
 recorded; since that period more than fifty. From 1500 to 
 1 63 1 it was so quiet that the mountain was covered with trees 
 and cattle grazed within the crater. Then came an outburst 
 which threw stones fifteen miles, one of them twenty-five tons 
 in weight; seven streams of lava poured from the summit; three 
 thousand persons perished. In 1707 Naples was covered with 
 dense showers of ashes. In 1779 red-hot stones weighing a 
 hundred pounds were hurled two thousand feet into the air. In 
 1 86 1 there was a frightful outbreak, witnessed by eminent 
 scientists. Ten years later Vesuvius discharged a stream of 
 lava a thousand yards wide and twenty feet deep, and sent up 
 smoke mingled with red-hot stones four thousand feet, and 
 clouds of ashes to twice that height. Sometimes the ashes 
 have been found as far away as Constantinople. 
 
 Girding ourselves for the remaining task, we pressed forward 
 to the edge of the crater, the heat of the surface upon which we 
 walked becoming so intense as to threaten the destruction of 
 11 
 
196 Travels in Thrke Continents. 
 
 our boots. At last the full terror and splendor of the scene 
 was before us. High in the air were hurled stones, ten or 
 fifteen feet in diameter, accompanied by ashes and smoke, 
 which, as they rose and fell back into the crater, seemed the 
 result of sudden successive explosions. With the high wind 
 caused by the heat, the black masses of aqueous vapor, the 
 smoke, the vivid light, the roar, and the spectacle of these 
 stones rising hundreds of feet, it was vividly suggestive of 
 doomsday. Yet in comparison with the premonitory earth- 
 quakes, day turned into night, the extraordinary agitation of 
 the sea, dense clouds overhanging land and sea riven by in- 
 cessant flashes of lightning, the emission of fire and ashes, the 
 descent of streams of lava, and the universal terror of man as 
 described by Pliny in a letter to the historian Tacitus, what we 
 sav.' must have been but as the overture before the full swell 
 of Pluto's chorus. 
 
 There is always danger. Not long before we were there a 
 gentleman was struck by a stone and seriously injured. In 
 1854 a young German approaching too near the shelving 
 brink, exposed himself to the fumes, lost his footing, fell in, 
 and was killed. 
 
 The volcano is to-day, as it has been through the ages, the 
 king of physical terrors, and one of the unsolved mysteries of 
 science. A common working hypothesis is that volcanoes are 
 connected with the waters of the sea; that the vast quantities 
 pf steam result from the contact of the water with burning 
 liquids, and that the earthquakes are caused by expanding 
 gases. 
 
 The descent of the cone was accomplished in ten minutes, 
 although we sank above our knees in the black, disintegrated 
 lava; but so steep was the declivity that gravity pushed us 
 down upon a rapid run. The long line of catastrophes has not 
 deterred the inhabitants from rebuilding their towns. 
 
 Before going to Pompeii I had visited the museum already 
 described; for the most valuable frescoes, as well as nearly all 
 the ornamental paintings, tomb inscriptions, bronzes, busts 
 and statuettes, armor, helmets and weapons, vases, household 
 utensils, lamps, candelabra, musical and surgical instruments, 
 scales and weights, mirrors, ink holders, bells, compasses. 
 
Vesuvius and Pompeii. 197 
 
 coins, cut gems, gold and silver objects — in fact, everything 
 found in Herculaneum and Pompeii had been removed there. 
 
 Pompeii, though so old, was never large. It was on a 
 river near the sea, and had much inland commerce. Earth- 
 quakes, volcanic eruptions, and other convulsions of nature 
 have separated it from both sea and river. It was long pros- 
 perous and a popular resort of the Romans. Its first shock 
 was in 63, when by an earthquake a large part of it was de- 
 stroyed. Being rebuilt in the then modern style, sixteen years 
 subsequently it was utterly destroyed. The destruction was 
 not by lava, but by ashes and red-hot fragments of pumice stone. 
 The whole can be told in a few words: " The first premonitory 
 symptom was a dense shower of ashes, the stratum of w'hich 
 covered the town to the depth of about three feet. . . . The 
 ashes were followed by a shower of red-hot rappi/i, or pumice 
 stone, of all sizes, which covered the town to the depth of seven 
 or eight feet, and was succeeded by fresh showers of ashes, and 
 again by /V7///7/. " This completely enveloped the city. After 
 the first shower the inhabitants escaped, but many returned, 
 and it is supposed that two thousand were lost. Excavations 
 were carried on irregularly for a long time, but of late years 
 with scientific thoroughness. 
 
 Little more than half the place has been excavated, yet the 
 w^ork has been done so beautifully that the town seems like a 
 picture artistically painted upon a horizontal wall. We walked 
 along the streets as the inhabitants walked; we entered their 
 houses by the doors through which they passed, and went from 
 room to room as one might go through houses offered for 
 rental. The streets that have pavements are not more than 
 eight yards wude, the alleys from ten to fourteen feet. They 
 are paved wnth blocks of lava. The ruts made by the wagons 
 and the impressions of the horses' hoofs still remain. Some 
 of the streets, as in modern cities, were devoted to shops and 
 stores. In the finer avenues are large buildings occupied by 
 their owners, the lower stories of which were rented as shops. 
 Little glass was used, therefore most of the houses presented 
 blank walls to the streets. 
 
 I noticed the similarity between these houses and those of 
 the Moors in Algiers and Morocco. Like those, these were 
 
ig8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 built with internal courts, providing the chambers fronting 
 upon them with Hght; the roof sloped inward and had an open- 
 ing in the center; there was a court, the middle of which was 
 laid out as a garden, and beyond were servants' rooms, to 
 whom also the upper floor appears to have been given. The 
 public buildings include temples, theater, forum, and baths. 
 
 The archaeologists in charge of the excavations have been 
 compelled to name the streets and public buildings, and have 
 done so with excellent taste. The baths are elaborate, con- 
 taining marble basins for washing the hands and face with cold 
 water, others for warm water, baths for women, chambers for 
 disrobing. The customhouse, several bake houses, and the 
 residence of a surgeon have been identified. 
 
 The principal theater is perfectly preserved, and would seat 
 five thousand persons, the amphitheater twenty thousand. 
 The aspect of the buildings is that of a very prosperous town. 
 Many of the baths and larger rooms of the houses are fres- 
 coed in a style still pleasing. Here is no life, yet it is not 
 a cemetery. When men die one by one successors speed- 
 ily occupy their places of abode and business, so that the 
 city continues. It is here rather as if a populatioiv had 
 been spirited away and a horde of vandals had denuded their 
 dwellings. 
 
 It has been common to speak of Pompeii as an excessively 
 wicked city, and of its destruction as a judgment, and extrava- 
 gant tales have been told of the evidences of the grossest 
 licentiousness which the excavations have revealed. I have 
 seen these remains, but find no evidence that this was any 
 worse than hundreds of other ancient cities, and think the 
 idea that the town was given up to the lowest forms of wick- 
 edness contrary to all the presumptions. It would be possible 
 to collect from the depraved sections of several American 
 cities as many evidences of bestiality relatively to the popula- 
 tion in those quarters as were found in Pompeii. The houses 
 generally were as free from objectionable decorations and in- 
 scriptions as those of similar classes to-day. Naples — as vile 
 as Pompeii ever was — and hundreds of other towns have 
 sinned for ages undestroved. 
 
 Pompeii was destroyed by natural causes. It might have 
 
Vesuvius and Pompeii. 199 
 
 been ruined if the center of all the piety known to the ancient 
 world: or those upon whom the ashes and lava of Vesuvius 
 fell and slew them, think you that they were sinners above all 
 the men that dwelt in Italy? The voice of Him who never 
 misinterpreted natural events maybe heard saying: "I tell 
 you, Nay. " The lesson of Pompeii is the simple lesson of 
 the uncertainty of life. 
 
 Pathetic indeed were the scenes revealed by the excava- 
 tions. In the \'illa Diomedes is a vaulted cellar. Eighteen 
 bodies of women and children who had provided themselves 
 with food and gone down into the vault were found, half- 
 buried in the ashes with their heads wrapped up. Near the 
 garden door was the supposed proprietor, with the key in his 
 hand; and beside him a slave bearing valuables and money. 
 In the museum are casts of bodies just as they were found; 
 one of a young girl with a ring on her finger. 
 
 In one aspect Pompeii is of greater value than it would have 
 been if it had continued to this day. In that case it would 
 have undergone many changes, and, like Naples, would be 
 practically a modern town. As it is, it affords the means of 
 knowing w'hat an ancient Roman town was. " The earth with 
 faithful watch has hoarded all." I obtained in three hours a 
 clearer idea of old Roman domestic life than the reading of a 
 lifetime had given me. 
 
200 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 The Italian People. 
 
 Excitability — Vanity — Superstition — Patience — Simplicity — Improvement — 
 Ignorance — Loretto — Religious Relics and Alleged Miracles — Work of 
 Protestants — Opposition Encountered. 
 
 The Italians are imaginative, and of extreme sensibility, 
 living like players upon a stage, doing everything in high- 
 pitched dramatic style. Their gestures are vehement and 
 numerous, and their demonstrations graceful, but verging upon 
 the boisterous. To music, art, etiquette, display, they are 
 always responsive. They are lovers of fine dress, and expend 
 an undue proportion of means upon it. 
 
 They are nearly as excitable as the Spaniards, especially in 
 the South, but differ from them in not being indolent, as the 
 Italian cannot sit all day doing nothing. They are passionate, 
 but not so vindictive as is generally supposed. The terrible 
 and truthful tales of the Italian vendetti, the typical assassins 
 of implacable revenge, transmitted from father to son and to 
 next of kin, continuing until one or both of the hostile clans 
 are annihilated, do not apply to the whole population any- 
 where, nor does the custom extend to all parts of the country. 
 
 Like all people accustomed to display, they are vain, and 
 the cheap titles which are so numerous contribute to and 
 stimulate it. Thev are not so volatile as the French, and have 
 more genuineness; politeness is less a matter of fencing, or of 
 effort to say the most and to mean the least. 
 
 Superstition is common, oscillating between fatalism and 
 credulous belief in signs, omens, and all sorts of supernatural 
 fancies, and mingling with it is a decidedly irreverent ten- 
 dency. For example, the wine which was offered to us in 
 our visits to A'esuvius and Poinpeii is called Lacrimcz Christi — 
 the tears of Christ. 
 
 Strange as it may seem to some, I am inclined to the 
 opinion that the Italians have a kind of oriental patience, and 
 
The Italian People. 201 
 
 are not a specially turbulent people. I might go further and 
 say that underneath their vehemence and the violence of 
 their gesticulations there is considerable genuine loyalty to law. 
 A circumstance occurred while we were at Rome that illus- 
 trates this trait. Large numbers of the peasantry had been 
 brousfht into the citv to do certain work. The contractors 
 failing to keep them employed, they were thrown on their own 
 resources, and suffered for want of food until their condition 
 became intolerable. Appealing in vain to the government, 
 they rose and went through the streets demolishing windows, 
 and for a few hours it appeared as though Rome was at the 
 mercy of a mob. lh\t they did no wanton destruction beyond 
 what has been stated. Their object was to draw the attention 
 of the whole people to their condition, and by their moder- 
 ation, which would hardly have characterized a similar mob in 
 most other nations, they excited sympathy. Government 
 action was taken; many were sent home, others employed, 
 and arrangements made for payment. 
 
 Many things led me to think that the peasantry of Italy 
 have almost a childish simplicity and subservience, from 
 which they depart only under transient excitement; then their 
 passions are terrible, because like those of children in ex- 
 citability and defective self-control, and those of men in 
 strength. 
 
 These comments are general. Among thirty millions of 
 Italian population are hundreds of thousands that might serve 
 as models in every particular in the points of unfavorable criti- 
 cism mentioned. It should be added that improvement is 
 taking place. Mr. Gladstone has written his impressions of 
 the difference between thirty-nine years ago, the occasion of 
 his last visit, and 1889, in the Nineteenth Century^ and, with- 
 out knowing by observation anything about what he saw on 
 the former occasion, his representations of the vast improve- 
 ment are confirmed by the facts. No nation is improving 
 more rapidly than Italy. The Italian quarter in New York 
 city is worse than any that I saw in the country whence those 
 immigrants come. Open-air life in Italy is less favorable to 
 the accumulation of filth than the necessarily confined situ- 
 ation in which are placed the poorer classes who come to 
 
202 Tr.W F.LS IN ThREE CONTINENTS. 
 
 the United States; nor tlo we see in this country many of the 
 better classes of the peasantry. 
 
 Several conditions may be relied upon to foster the spirit of 
 improvement: the freedom of the press — wholly unknown in 
 Italy until within a few years — and the increasing circulation 
 of cheap publications. So many of these are ephemeral and 
 fictitious that it has been truthfully said that the average 
 Italian would rather "enjoy a fiction than know a fact." Others 
 are historical, geographical, literary, hygienic, and an increas- 
 ing proportion of these are bought by the people. 
 
 Notwithstanding the just claim of Italy in sculpture, archi- 
 tecture, and painting, in music and poetry, and the number of 
 universities, the immense majority of the inhabitants are very 
 ignorant, and to this day the greater part remain without even 
 the rudiments of education. The Italian government is mak- 
 ing strenuous efforts to improve the intellectual life of the 
 country. The press is absolutely free. Perhaps in no part of 
 Europe is it more so. Unfortunately, it is largely in the 
 hands of freethinkers, many of them Jews, so that an infidel 
 spirit is plainly discernible in most of the papers, especially 
 those generally read. Many lawyers and professional men 
 are freethinkers, not a few of whom, for political purposes, 
 remain in the Church. There can be little doubt that the 
 spirit of unbelief is rapidly spreading among Italians, more par- 
 ticularly among the men. 
 
 At Verona is exhibited, for the edification of the pious and 
 the gratification of the curious, the skin of an ass. It is af- 
 firmed that this is the skin of the animal on which our Lord 
 rode, and that the ass, after having had such an illustrious 
 rider, refused ever to bear another. He made his way to 
 Venice, where he rang the bell of a convent. As the porter 
 did not recognize him, he kept on to Verona, and there rang 
 a bell, was instantly recognized, admitted, lived a long and 
 holy life, died in the odor of sanctity, and his skin is preserved 
 and exhibited as incontrovertible evidence of the truth of the 
 account. 
 
 There is a town called Loretto, fifteen miles from Ancona, 
 which originated thus : The Empress Helena, the mother of 
 Constantine, made a pilgrimage to the house of the Virgin 
 
The Italian People. 203 
 
 at Nazareth, in the year 336, and built a church over it. 
 The church decayed, and then the Casa Santa was mirac- 
 ulously transplanted by the hands of angels, in 1291, to a 
 point on the coast of Dalmatia. It remained there undis- 
 turbed three years, when it was transplanted by angels, during 
 the night, to the spot where it now is, and placed on the 
 ground of a widow named Laureta, where it was inclosed in a 
 church, and a city has sprung up around it. The place con- 
 sists principally of a single long street, full of booths for the 
 sale of rosaries, medals, and images. A half million pilgrims 
 go there annually. 
 
 In the Church of St. Paul Without the Walls I saw hun- 
 dreds kissing the chain with which St. Paul was bound, and 
 afterward visited the Church of the Three Fountains, built at 
 the spot where St. Paul is said to have been executed. It is 
 claimed that when his head was cut off it made three distinct 
 leaps, and immediately there sprang up three fountains. The 
 church stands on the very spot, and contains the springs. The 
 Trappist monks having charge of the place peddle rosaries 
 and eucalyptus liquor at ten cents a glass. 
 
 On the way to the catacombs we entered a little chapel, 
 where a monk showed us a marble slab on which Christ stood 
 and turned Peter back, when he met him running away from 
 Rome. The mark of our Lord's feet is there, an eighth of an 
 inch deep, imprinted "as if the cold pavement were a sod." 
 From the statue of Christ, near by, the pilgrims have kissed 
 away one foot, and notwithstanding they possess the impress 
 of the divine, they have restored in bronze the foot, and have 
 not followed the sacred pattern. In one case the great toe 
 is much longer than the second toe, in the other consider- 
 ably shorter. 
 
 The religious work done by Protestants is prosecuted by 
 several sects, of which the larger number are of foreign ori- 
 gin. But the Waldensians stand first numerically, and, his- 
 torically considered, are entitled to honor for their stanch 
 adherence to Protestant principles. It is as noble a chapter 
 as the annals of Christian heroism contain. They have more 
 than four thousand communicants in Italy proper, but are not 
 aggressive. On account of their methods their rate of prog- 
 
204 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 ress always has been, and must of necessity be, slow. The 
 Free Church has less than two thousand communicants, and 
 from the beginning has been more a political than a religious 
 movement. Gavazzi, their great orator and patriot, died 
 while 1 was in Italy, and the memorial addresses and services 
 were proceeding in the different cities during most of my stay 
 in the country. He hoped that the Waldensians and the Free 
 Church would unite, and that the body would take the name 
 of the Evangelical Church of Italy. Since the failure of this 
 proposition the Free Church has made little progress. Be- 
 sides these, there are six hundred English and American Bap- 
 tists, about fifteen hundred Presbyterians, and the English ^nd 
 American Methodists. The Plymouth Brethren also do a 
 
 limited work. 
 
 Other forms of Christianity encounter immense difficulties 
 in Italy. The poor Italian says within himself: "How can 1 
 succeed if the Church is against me ? When I am old who will 
 take care of me ? Can I die under the ban of the Church, and 
 leave my wife and children to mourn me as a lost soul? Can 
 I be refused burial among my ancestors?" Comparatively 
 few are readv for such a sacrifice. 
 
Going Dowx to Egypt. 205 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 Going Down to Egypt. 
 
 Brindisi — Coast of Greece — Candia — Gaudo — Coast of Egypt — Arriving in 
 Alexandria — Pharos — \'ie\v of City and Harbor from the Base of Pompey's 
 Pillar — Site of Cleopatra's Needles — Journey to Cairo. 
 
 At Naples our party of two became three by the addition of 
 an old friend, Dr. C. F. P. Bancroft, Principal of Phillips An- 
 dover Academy, Massachusetts, who, in accordance with pre- 
 vious arrangements, joined us there. Rising at daylight on 
 the second of February, we rode several hundred miles over 
 mountains and plains, through olive orchards, tunnels, among 
 aqueducts, impressive ruins, and in sight of villages situated 
 high on mountain sides, flourishing towns, populous cities, 
 castles, cathedrals, battlefields, which kept eye and mind busy 
 through the long day, until, in the shades of evening, we 
 caught a glimpse of the Adriatic as we rolled into the station 
 of Brindisi, where we spent a quiet Sabbath. The chief relics 
 of antiquity are near the hotel, and consist of a high column of 
 Greek marble, with an ornate capital, and the remains of an- 
 other pillar. 
 
 On the morning of February 4 we sailed for Egypt on the 
 Peninsular and Oriental steamship Hydaspes. One half the 
 passengers were English, one third American, and the 
 remainder of different nationalities. Early the next morning 
 the coast of Greece appeared, and we ran within sight of 
 it for twenty-four hours. The irregular masses of the Morea 
 first burst upon our vision, and beyond them the lofty moun- 
 tains of Arcadia. 
 
 Some of the passengers claimed to identify Mount St. Elias, 
 the highest point in the Morea; but while they dogmatized I 
 doubted, as its appearance would overthrow all the geogra- 
 phies in the world. We sailed so close to Navarino, where 
 was fought the great battle between Ibrahim Pasha and the 
 allied forces of England, France, and Russia, which was 
 
2o6 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 undoubtedl}' preliminary and essential to the independence of 
 Greece, that we could have followed the evtjlutions of a regi- 
 ment with the naked eye. 
 
 For hours we were within sight of Candia (ancient Crete). 
 An old traveler familiar with the island assured us that St. 
 Paul's words concerning the Cretans, which he quotes from 
 one of their own writers, " The Cretans are always liars, evil 
 beasts, slow bellies," are as true of the people now as then. 
 The island belongs to Turkey, but three fourths of the popu- 
 lation are Greek and belong to the Greek Church. 
 
 Luke's account of his voyage with Paul along the same coasts, 
 says that they meant to winter in one of the ports of Crete, and 
 thought they could do so, owing to favorable winds, " but not 
 long after there arose against it a tempestuous wind, called 
 •Euroclydon. And when the ship was caught, and could 
 not bear up, . , . running under a certain island which is 
 called Clauda, we had much work to come by the boat." 
 Clauda (Gaudo) now has a revolving light, which stands on 
 the summit of the island eleven hundred and eighty-one feet 
 above the sea. We saw this light, which fiashes once a minute, 
 at a distance of twenty miles. 
 
 After four days of fine weather and smooth seas, the long 
 sandy coast of Egypt appeared about daybreak in dim outline. 
 In the best light the highest parts only are visible eighteen 
 miles away, but the general coast line cannot be seen until the 
 vessel is within twelve or fourteen miles. The passengers 
 were all on deck, and soon were seen the breakwater, with 
 its lighthouse, the forts, the ruined palace of Said Pasha, the 
 quarries from which the stone was brought to construct the 
 breakwater, stretching away to the westward until those are 
 reached from which the stone was taken to build the ancient 
 city. The cove was pointed out near which Napoleon landed 
 his troops July i, 1798, in order to march on Alexandria. 
 Ships now go up to the pier, and no such difificulties with 
 boatmen as former travelers complained of were experienced 
 by us. 
 
 1 was landing in Egypt, " the cradle of history and of human 
 culture," of which Herodotus, in words which have been used 
 a thousand times to introduce books, essays, letters, and lee- 
 
Going Down to Egypt. 207 
 
 tures upon Egypt, said four hundred and fifty-six years before 
 Christ: " It contains more wonders than any other land, and 
 is prominent above all the countries in the world for works 
 that one can hardly describe." When General Grant, after his 
 tour around the world, met Andrew D. White, ex-President 
 of Cornell University, he said to him; "After Egypt there is 
 nothing." 
 
 I was also in Alexandria, a name which causes one to think 
 of him who founded it to be the emporium of the w5rld; of its 
 rapid prosperity as a commercial center through which "the 
 lucrative trade of Arabia and India flowed to the capital and 
 provinces of the empire;" of its schools, its grammarians, 
 philosophers, astronomers, physicians, poets, orators. In 
 Alexandria the Septuagint was made, and to its museum and 
 libraries students flocked from every land. Alexandria was not 
 only the chief factor in the world's early intellectual growth; 
 it was historically related to the development of Christianity 
 as no other city. It was because of the dispute between Alex- 
 ander, the patriarch of Alexandria, and Arius, that the Council 
 of Nice was convened, which settled for the orthodox Church 
 the doctrine of the- deity of Jesus Christ, Athanasius here 
 fulfilled the order of his course as a deacon, and after he had 
 persuaded the Council of Nice by his eloquence, entered upon 
 a stormy career as bishop, and here, after being deposed, ban- 
 ished, and restored several times, he died in peace. 
 
 From having sunk to a population of five thousand Alex- 
 andria has of late years increased to a quarter of a million and 
 again become important. The ruins are so few and accessible 
 that there is nothing to detain the traveler long. The site of 
 the ancient Pharos, one of the seven wonders of the world, 
 claims the first place, though no ruins remain. It w'as a light- 
 house constructed of white marble, several stories high, each 
 successive story diminished in size, and having a gallery 
 around it supported on the outer circle of the story beneath. 
 Near the spot is a castle now known as Fort Pharos. Pom- 
 pey's Pillar is of beautiful red granite, and stands on a 
 height whose name is derived from the Roman Prefect Pom- 
 peius, who erected it in honor of Diocletian. 
 
 A fine view of the citv and harbor is obtained from the base 
 
 > 
 
2o8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 of the monument, which was probably the highest ground in 
 the ancient city. Near it is a Mohammedan cemetery, and we 
 met two long funeral processions. There seemed a solemnity 
 and a weirdnessnot unmingled with pathos in the monotonous 
 chants and wailings of the mourners, who elevated above 
 their heads the uncoffined body upon a kind of bier, and passed 
 along seemingly oblivious of their surroundings. We rever- 
 ently took off our hats, but noticed that the passing Egyptians 
 paid no attention to the ceremonies. Funerals are so numer- 
 ous in all the cities of Egypt as to suggest the prevalence of 
 an epidemic; men come to regard them as ordinary scenes. 
 
 We made a journey to the site formerly occupied by Cleo- 
 patra's Needles, but did not see them, for the sufficient 
 reason that one is in London, and the other in Central Park, 
 in the city of New York. Originally they were erected at 
 Heliopolis, and were transported to Alexandria in the eighth 
 year of Augustus. In the year 1800 one was standing, and 
 the other fallen. The latter was given to the English by 
 Mohammed Ali, but was not moved till 1877, when the late 
 Professor Erasmus Wilson and another gentleman furnished 
 the money. It w^as encased in an iron cylinder and rolled into 
 the sea, fitted up with a rudder, deck house, and cabin, named 
 the Cleopatra, and taken in tow by a steamer. Encoun- 
 tering many storms, it was abandoned in the Bay of Biscay, 
 but was finally found, towed to London, and in October, 1878, 
 set up on the Thames embankment. The other was presented 
 to the government of the United States by Ismail Pasha, and 
 was erected in Central Park January 22, 1881. 
 
 An English writer thus speaks of the removal of these mon- 
 uments: "Some may be of opinion that it would have been 
 a more noble monument to England had this buried obelisk 
 been reerected beside its fellow on its native soil; but few will 
 hesitate to stamp as sacrilege the removal of the remaining one 
 from the place where it had so long stood and its transport to 
 the LTnited States." Here in perfection is the art of putting 
 things! If the removal of most of the many remains of an- 
 tiquity from their original sites for purposes of science or 
 ornamentation or popular interest is to be branded as sacrilege, 
 there is scarce an ancient temple or mediaeval structure that 
 
Going Dcwx to Egypt. 209 
 
 ought not to have the word //-(?■ //(/ inscribed upon it, and that 
 noble institution, the British Museum, which has done so much 
 for the education of the modern world, should be entitled 
 ''The Depository of the Results of Sacrilegious Plunder." 
 Eg}^pt has ruins enough and to spare, though the present 
 jealousy of foreign explorers and travelers can be trusted to 
 protect all existing remains of importance. 
 
 Toward evening we left the city by the express train for 
 Cairo, distant one hundred and twentv-eight miles. 
 
 Around Alexandria are well-cultivated gardens, and the 
 whole country, profusely irrigated, appears fruitful and flour- 
 ishing. Long lines of camels could be seen on the banks of 
 the canal and of the Nile, and processions of donkeys heavily 
 laden. The most diverting of these scenes was a string of 
 twenty camels tied together, preceded by a diminutive donkey 
 which piloted the procession, as a steam tug sometmaes takes 
 out to sea an ocean steamer a hundred times larger than 
 itself. Cotton fields; wide expanses of grass; distant villages, 
 built of mud and placed on heights to escape the annual 
 floods, surrounded by palms, minarets gracefully rising above 
 them; hundreds of men, Avomen, and children on foot; crowds 
 in picturesque costumes at all the stations, made a splendid 
 panorama which introduced to us Egyptian life and manners. 
 
 At length the walls of Cairo appeared, and soon the train shot 
 into the station. The railroad over which we traveled was the 
 first built in the Orient, and dates from 1855. The great 
 Stephenson was the engineer, and it was his plan by this road, 
 together with an extension from Cairo to Suez, to meet the 
 commercial needs which the Suez Canal effectually supplies. 
 
2 10 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 Cairo — The "Mother of the World," and Heliopolis 
 
 Slraii'Te Scenes — Citadel and Mosque of Mohammed Ali — Mosque of Sultan 
 Hassan — Mosque of Amer at Old Cairo — Kland of Roda — Nilometer — 
 Palace of Gezireh and of the Khedive — The Only Egyptian Lunatic Asylum 
 — Virgin's Tree — Heliopolis — Ostrich Farm. 
 
 As soon as possible we plunged into the street and were 
 absorbed in the ceaseless crowd. The streets are narrow and 
 irregular, and of sidewalks there are none worthy the name in 
 the principal Arab quarters. Donkeys and camels without 
 number are forcing their way through. Different races of men, 
 with their costumes and cries, move in and out; a wild mas- 
 querade dance is the only figure of speech which will convey 
 any idea of the scene. Loud, hoarse, and dissonant yells in 
 languages unlike those of Europe, threaten with rupture the 
 tympanum of every foreign ear. 
 
 ' The barber shops are open to the street, and in the course of 
 a few hours' walk a hundred barbers could be seen rapidly 
 shaving the heads of their customers. Men run in advance uf 
 coaches and by the side of donkeys. With these are mingled 
 camels, whose drivers are constantly yelling to persons to get 
 out of the way. They specify the part of the body in danger 
 of collision, uttering, in Arabic, such directions as, "Your left 
 side," "Your right side, girl," "Your back, lady." Water 
 carriers work their way about, a few selling the water, but the 
 majority giving it, being paid by some one who tells them to 
 do so. They utter cries equivalent to " May God recompense 
 me!" When they are accompanied by their employers they 
 ejaculate, "God forgive thy sinsi" Instead of calling the 
 names of their vegetables, those who sell them use such 
 expressions as, "God will make thee light, O lemons!" 
 meaning that he will make the baskets that hold them light. 
 W^andenng cooks go about setting up their kitchens any- 
 where, and cook fish, puddings, and whatever they have. 
 
Cairo and Heliopolis. 211 
 
 while their customers sit crosslegged along the side of the 
 street. 
 
 Nearly all the mechanics work with doors and windows 
 open, and many of them in the street. It is surprising 
 to see what excellent work is done with primitive tools. 
 Auctioneers run to antl fro, calling out their wares and the 
 last bids. Peddlers carry tables on their heads and set them 
 up wherever they fancy. All is done in the best of humor, 
 but with excessive voice and gesture. The vender of 
 roses cries, "The rose was a thorn, but the sweat of the 
 Prophet caused it to blossom." Beggars add to the confusion 
 by screaming, "I am the guest of God and the Prophet;" 
 and toward night, " My supper must be thy gift, O Lord." 
 Here and there are rings of spectators witnessing feats of 
 legerdemain. 
 
 Amid all this a funeral procession may come, pushing its 
 way through, preceded by camels bearing bread and water to 
 give to the poor at the tomb, though this is not done vvhen 
 the deceased was poor. Singers follow chanting the usual 
 formulas, then friends, and finally the promiscuous crowds. 
 An astonishing snapping of whips goes on continually. 
 Some sound almost as loud as pistol shots, and every one who 
 has a whip does his best to make the loudest possible crack. 
 The ordinary method of traveling about the city is upon 
 donkeys. The person who hires a donkey mounts it, and the 
 donkey boy runs by his side, never appearing in the least de- 
 gree weary. 
 
 These are but a few, taken almost at random, of the elements 
 of the confusion. I should certainly have lost my head if I 
 had not previously visited the stock exchanges in New York, 
 London, Paris, and Hamburg. L^nmoved amid all this are 
 hundreds, sitting in the doors of the coffee houses, drinking 
 coffee, or smoking peculiar pipes that have contrivances for 
 the smoke to pass through w^ater, and afterward to be draw^n 
 through tubes from six to ten feet in length. These loiterers 
 look as serene as if upon the shady bank of a stream on 
 a midsummer's day. 
 
 Above the uproar, at certain hours, the cry of the muez- 
 zin, from the minarets of the hundreds of mosques, falls upon 
 12 
 
212 '1'ravels in Ihree Continents. 
 
 the ear, calling the people to prayer, and the majority 
 respond; but few minutes are devoted to the act. In the 
 bazaars many a dealer who does not happen to have a cus-. 
 tomer can be seen reading the Koran. The crowd rushes by, 
 and this man sits crosslegged, not more than three feet from 
 it, entirely absorbed in his devotional book, but is ready at 
 a second's notice to drop it, his abstracted look disappearing, 
 and a keen eye for a bargain taking its place. 
 
 Turbans are quite a study. While Arabs from the earliest 
 times have distinguished their religious divisions, families, and 
 tribal connections by the color of their turbans, it is now im- 
 possible to dec^tle absolutely upon any general principle. The 
 descendants of the Prophet, called Sherifs, wear green turbans, 
 but they are now frequently worn by pilgrims to Mecca. Schol- 
 ars and priests generally wear wide turbans of light color, and 
 non-Mohammedans generally ^vear dark turbans; the Copts 
 adopt the blue, and the Jews the yellow color; but even this, 
 though dating from a decree four hundred years old, is no 
 longer a certain method of identif5"ing the wearer. It is stated 
 that an orthodox turban Avorn by a ^lohammedan is seven 
 times as long as his head, so that it can be used as his winding 
 sheet, and that wearing it may remind him of his mortality. 
 
 The crowds that fill the streets where business is done would 
 deceive a stranger as to the population of the city. When 
 one steps out of these streets he finds few people during 
 business hours; the women are in their houses, the men gone 
 to their places of trade. In the middle of the day, if it is at 
 all warm, traffic ceases as if by magic; but about two o'clock, 
 the siesta being finished, the rush begins and continues until 
 late in the afternoon. These scenes never palled nor grew 
 monotonous during our various visits to Cairo. 
 
 Having spent the first morning in the street, we went in 
 the afternoon to the Citadel and the Mosque of Mohammed 
 Ali, passing through the Ezbekiyeh, the finest public garden in 
 the city. The citadel was built by the great Salaheddin, the 
 site said to be selected merely because it was found that meat 
 would keep fresh twice as long there as anywhere else. From 
 it one has a view of the city, the desert, the distant Pyra- 
 mids, " the City of the Tombs," the Nile, and the plains that 
 
Cairo and Heliopolis. 213 
 
 neither words nor pencil can wortliily present. Harriet Mar- 
 tineau says: " I would entreat any stranger to see this view 
 first in the evening before sunset." We saw it at this hour. 
 She says that the city *' looks a perfect wilderness of flat roofs, 
 cupolas, minarets, and palm tops, . . . speaks of the fawn- 
 colored domes of the City of Tombs rising against the some- 
 what darker sand of the desert, and the river gleaming and 
 winding away from the dim south into the blue distance of the 
 north, the green strips of cultivation on its banks delighting 
 the eye amid the 5^ellow sands." Two mosques are connected 
 with the citadel — the old mosque, now disused, and the Mosque 
 of Mohammed Ali. The day was Friday, and after explor- 
 ing the Mosque of ]\Iohammed Ali we were obliged to retire 
 on account of the approach of the hour of prayer, but had the 
 opportunity of looking in at the windows. 
 
 On this hill, INIarch i, 181 1, the famous order of Mamelukes 
 was extinguished by a massacre ordered by Mohammed Ali; 
 he had grown weary of their schemes against his authority, 
 arranged for their massacre, and invited them to a reception. 
 They were at that time the finest cavalry in the world, and did 
 not suspect their fate. When they entered the fortification, as 
 the portcullis fell behind the last, they saw their danger; four 
 hundred and sixty of them and eight hundred more in the city 
 were slaughtered. 
 
 The Mosque of Sultan Hassan is considered the finest in 
 Cairo, and one of the most superb monuments of Mohammed- 
 an architecture. It is in a somewhat dilapidated condition, 
 but evidences of its former grandeur are not lacking. It is 
 built of blocks brought from the Pyramids. It has oftentimes 
 served as a fortress, and in one spot is a dark stain of blood, 
 of which the legend says that the Sultan slew with his own 
 hand his unfaithful prime minister. A gloomy grandeur 
 relieved only by the graceful minaret and the majestic arch is 
 its chief characteristic. 
 
 There are about two hundred and seventy mosques in Cairo, 
 and more than two hundred chapels. In general terms, 
 whether ancient Mameluke or Turkish, they consist of open 
 courts, of a broad niche in the wall looking toward Mecca, a 
 stone or wooden pulpit, a platform, a portico, a desk for the 
 
214 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 Koran, a tank for washing, a canopy supported by columns, a 
 dome, a mausoleum, a minaret, and a tower resembling it, but 
 not having balconies. Of the oldest style the Mosque of Amer 
 at Old Cairo is a conspicuous example. We went to see it, on the 
 way passing the aqueduct. It is held to be the most ancient 
 mosque in Egypt, is three hundred and lilty feet square, and 
 shows the original mosque plan, never having been a church. 
 At the entrance is a single line of columns, at the sides 
 three deep, and at the end six deep, amounting to nearly two 
 hundred and fifty. One of the columns is said to have come 
 there miraculously from Mecca. In one corner is the tomb of 
 the founder, and in another a spring. The more superstitious 
 Mussulmans think that this spring communicates with the 
 holy well at Mecca, and state in proof that a pilgrim lost a 
 ring in that well in Mecca, and afterward found it in this 
 spring. This mosque in 1808 witnessed an extraordinary scene. 
 At the usual time of the rising of the Nile it began to fall. 
 The whole land was filled with dismay, and all the Moham- 
 medan priesthood, the Latin, Greek, and Coptic clergy, in 
 fact, the clergy of every Christian sect, and all the Jewish 
 rabbis in Cairo assembled in this ancient mosque to pray for 
 the rise of the water. Though the water rose, this union 
 under stress did not destroy their ancestral hatred of each 
 other. 
 
 The island of Roda lies opposite Old Cairo, being separated 
 from it by a narrow branch of the Nile. The Arabs declare 
 it to be tile site of the finding of Moses by Pharaoh's daughter; 
 accordingly a beautiful palm on the island is called ^Moses' 
 Tree. When the Nile rises to an unusual height the whole 
 island is under water and boats sail across it. 
 
 I'he Nilometer is a square chamber having a graduated 
 pillar that rises from the bottom to the top. The scale meas- 
 ures seventeen cubits, each twenty-seven and seven sixteenths 
 of an inch long, but the regular cubit as now used in Cairo is 
 only fourteen and one fourth. This Nilometer is supposed to 
 have existed more than a thousand years. When we were 
 there it showed the river to be within two feet of the lowest 
 point, a fact of which we afterward had a very unpleasant 
 demonstration. When the Nile begins to rise the fact is pro- 
 
Cairo and Heliopolis. 215 
 
 claimed about the streets of Cairo by criers, each of whom has 
 his district. It generally rises from twenty-one to twenty-six 
 feet. It has been charged that the government sometimes 
 "doctors the returns" in order to make plausible reasons for 
 additional taxation. 
 
 We were exceedingly fortunate in the courier obtained for 
 Cairo and vicinity. His name was Mohammed Abdel Rah- 
 man, and he proved the most competent conductor we found in 
 all the East. Making no pretense beyond his knowledge, using 
 few words, never obtruding nor contradicting, he was, what 
 few professional guides are able or willing to be, silent when 
 he saw that we were observing, conversing, or meditating. 
 
 Cairo has numerous palaces besides other immense edifices, 
 now devoted to other purposes, formerly occupied by different 
 Khedives, or built for members of their families, wives, or 
 concubines. We visited the palace of Gezireh, a building in- 
 ternally attractive; the furniture consists in part of articles 
 exhibited at the Paris Exhibition in 1867, The rooms are 
 shown which were occupied by the Empress Eugenie when the 
 Suez Canal was opened, and afterward by the Emperor of 
 Austria; the blue room was elegantly upholstered from floor 
 to ceiling in blue satin embroidered with gold. 
 
 We also went to the palace occupied by the Khedive, and 
 waited an hour to see him come forth for his afternoon drive. 
 While his escorts were gaudily dressed and blazed with gilt 
 and silk, and the runners with the carriage wore a uniform 
 which rivaled the fantastic decorations of wandering acrobats, 
 and would set the urchins of an American city wild, the Khe- 
 dive was so plainly attired that he would have attracted no 
 attention if walking in a European city. 
 
 Some of our friends were invited to dine with him. Dinner 
 was served at half past seven. The guests assembled at the 
 palace and were ushered into a small reception room, when 
 the consul of the United States and the chamberlains escorted 
 the ladies up the grand staircase, passing between lines of 
 soldiers on each side of the vestibule. The hall was decorated 
 with tropical plants, and the palace brilliantly lighted. The 
 Khedive received in his grand salon, in a cordial and easy 
 manner, conversed with each separately, and never sat for an 
 
2i6 Travkls in Three Coxtixents. 
 
 instant except at dinner. There were twenty-two guests. 
 The band was so far removed as not to interfere with conver- 
 sation, and, in compliment to the Americans, the first selec- 
 tion which was played when they entered the dining room was 
 "Yankee Doodle." There were several American dishes. 
 The centerpiece for the table was a bed of roses and other 
 flowers grown in the open air, though this was the month of 
 January. There was nothing Egyptian about the palace or 
 the menu. 
 
 The Khedive was about thirty-five years old, and fine look- 
 ing. He spoke English and French, drank only water, 
 and did not smoke; but three kinds of wine were served for 
 his guests. At the dinner his dress was the same as that of 
 the other gentlemen. He wore no medals, nor was there any- 
 thing to indicate that he was other than an ordinary person- 
 age. When the guests returned to the salon coffee was served 
 in Turkish cups, the holders being of solid gold studded with 
 diamonds. 
 
 The modern palaces in Cairo are thoroughly European. 
 The Museum of Arabic Antiquities is a valuable and instruct- 
 ive collection of treasures of Arab art. The ancient mosque 
 chandeliers, magnificent brass tables, an extensive collection 
 of brass lamps, some' of the finest of which were made for the 
 Mosque of Sultan Hassan, give the best view of the proficiency 
 of the Arabs in special work. The name of Sultan Hassan is 
 wrought in colored transparent letters on a light ground in the 
 lamps. The Arabs place a high value upon manuscripts, 
 everything connected with them and their preservation; this 
 museum contains carved ivory bookstands divided into sec- 
 tions; certain of the doors are inlaid with ivory. 
 
 There is but one lunatic asylum in Egypt. To that is de- 
 voted a building formerly a palace, which, with its surround- 
 ing gardens, is admirably adapted to the purpose. I spent an 
 afternoon there, and was courteously received by Dr. Abbas, 
 the superintendent. Up to comparatively recent date the 
 Mohammedans did not regard insanity a disease so much as a 
 proof of divine inspiration. Lunatics were allowed to do al- 
 most what they pleased: to run naked through the streets, to 
 assault persons; and not until their actions became dangerous 
 
Cairo and Heliopolis. 217 
 
 to human life were they restrained. This was traced to the early 
 notions of the Christians, who believed all lunatics inspired 
 by God or possessed of the devil. Forty years ago the few in- 
 sane persons and idiots whom it was found necessarj' to restrain 
 were left in dungeons, excavations, or mud huts, in squalor and 
 wretchedness indescribable. Dr. Abbas is an Egyptian, but 
 highly educated, having studied in Paris, and evidences of his 
 familiarity with the approved methods of treating the insane 
 were obvious. Not a picture or a book was visible in any of 
 the rooms occupied by the patients. Ever3'thing was scrupu- 
 lously clean, and as no artificial heat is requisite at^my season 
 of the year, the ventilation was perfect. 
 
 It was not to gaze upon lunatics that I visited this institu- 
 tion, but to ascertain what are the principal causes of mental 
 derangement among the orientals. Many exhibit there, as 
 elsewhere, a mere degeneration of stock. Their parents were 
 feeble-minded, and by sinking one degree in the scale, they 
 become non covtpos iiic/ifis. Others had been made insane by 
 bereavement, loss of property, persecution, domestic trouble. 
 The influence of the climate had affected some, but others 
 were children of the best families, made lunatics by disease or 
 vice. The evil habits which in Europe and America send so 
 many to asylums are equally potent there; but the number 
 insane from the use of alcohol is, relatively, very small. 
 
 The Mohammedans are forbidden to drink wine or liquors, 
 and while a small proportion do, the majority do not, or to a 
 slight extent only, so that the doleful spectacle of a large 
 numbev of dipsomaniacs, and of persons whose insanity was 
 primarily caused by excessive use of alcohol, was not pre- 
 sented to us here. 
 
 Opium, however, had many more victims than we find in the 
 United States; for the Mohammedans have endeavored to 
 circumvent the prohibition of wine by addicting themselves to 
 other means of producing intoxication or pleasurable excite- 
 ment. They compound various mixtures of opium with other 
 drugs, in such a way that one combination will cause the user 
 to sing, another will set him to talking, a third to dancing, 
 etc. The use of opium is not as common in Egypt as in coun- 
 tries farther east. 
 
2i8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 We saw two wards filled with victims of hasheesh, and the 
 superintendent stated that it causes more lunacy in Egypt 
 than opium and alcohol united. Hasheesh, a preparation of 
 hemp similar to Cannabis indica, has been used from very ancient 
 times. Herodotus speaks of it, and says that the Scythians 
 intoxicated themselves in their religious ceremonies with the 
 fumes of burning seeds (jf the plant. Lane traces it through 
 India and Persia, and finds it in P:gypt before the middle of 
 the thirteenth century of the Christian era. 
 
 When it is smoked the leaves are used alone or mixed with 
 tobacco. The intoxicating preparations are made by employ- 
 ing the capsules without the seeds mixed with various sub- 
 stances. Hasheesh can be obtained at various coffee shops, 
 and there are others which sell nothing but this and other in- 
 toxicating preparations. Men become very drunk upon hash- 
 eesh, and are frequently violent, and the doctor stated that 
 insanity produced by it is difficult to cure, generally passing on 
 to complete dementia. 
 
 Our word assassin is derived from this word, noisy and riot- 
 ous being called in the East hashshasheen. This name was 
 first applied to Arab warriors in Syria during the Crusades, as 
 they used this drug both to render their enemies insensible 
 and to excite those appointed to slay them. 
 
 The only disagreeable circumstance in our visit to the asylum 
 was observation of the inadequate provisions for women. In- 
 stead of separate rooms or wards, they are in one hall; all 
 grades of insanity being in the same room. As I entered, a 
 Avoman sprang from her bed, flew across the room almost with 
 the rapidity of the wind, prostrated herself, and before 
 the attendants could restrain her seized me by the foot. 
 The poor creature was trying to kiss my foot, according to 
 the oriental custom, preparatory to beseeching me to issue an 
 order that she might go to see her children. Several others 
 made friendly or hostile demonstrations. The female attend- 
 ants, being obliged to conform to the Egyptian custom of keep- 
 ing their faces covered, were embarrassed in their struggles 
 with the lunatics, for frequently they were obliged to use one 
 hand to prevent the pulling away of their face coverings. Dr. 
 Abbas stated to us that he had applied to the government. 
 
Cairo and Heliopolis. 
 
 219 
 
 and hoped to secure better accommodations for female pa- 
 tients. 
 
 The drive to Heliopolis, of an hour and a half, passed pal- 
 aces, tombs, plantations of palms, orange, and lemon trees, 
 barracks, the military school, and fine olive orchards. 
 
 We paused at the Virgin's Tree, a magnificent sycamore 
 which stands in a garden, so Cjilled because of a legend that 
 the Holy Family rested beneath it. The Coptic sect has con- 
 trol of it, but the Roman Catholics affirm that the original 
 tree died in 1659, and that they have the last fragments of it 
 in Cairo. It is claimed by the latter that the tree we saw was 
 not planted till 1672. In this vicinity are the gardens in which 
 Cleopatra planted the Balm of Gilead which, tradition says, 
 was presented to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba. 
 
 Alas for the glory of Heliopolis I styled by an English 
 writer the "Oxford of Old Egypt," the site of the supreme 
 Temple of the Sun. There Plato and Solon studied for years, 
 and Herodotus paused in his travels to collect the facts which 
 give him the name of "Father of History." Heliopolis was 
 the capital of lower Egypt, and is mentioned in the Bible under 
 various names. Here Joseph lived, and married his wife, 
 Asenath, the daughter of "Poti-pherah, the priest of On," and 
 the mother of Manasseh and Ephraim. Josephus says that 
 when the family of Jacob arrived in Egypt, their residence was 
 given to them in On. Here the sun was worshiped, and here 
 stood the most famous and ancient shrine in Egvpt, with the 
 exception of one in Memphis. But while they worshiped the 
 sun they also worshiped cats and a white sow! In this temple 
 the staff of priests and other officers numbered twelve thousand 
 nine hundred and thirteen. Nothing remains of its glory and 
 magnificence save the ruins of the outer wall and a single obe- 
 lisk, which is the oldest in Egypt, dating from B. C. 1700 to 
 2400, according to the chronology adopted. It is nearly 
 perfect. 
 
 Obelisks were always built in pairs, and in 1 190 an Arab doc- 
 tor, of Bagdad, saw the other in two pieces; but it has long 
 since disappeared. That solitary obelisk on which we looked 
 was old when Abraham came down to Egypt, but the worship- 
 ers of the sun, whose glory it commemorates, are extinct. 
 
220 Travels in '1'iikkk Continents. 
 
 From the ruins of Heliopolis we went to an ostrich farm. 
 The ostrich is cultivated for his feathers, for which there is 
 great demand wherever fashion rules and money is plenty. 
 The eggs are artificially hatched. We went leisurely through 
 the grounds, seeing the eggs in incubators, and by the agency 
 of light applied by a peculiar process the growth of the bird 
 within ct)uld be discerned, and the soundness of the egg could 
 easily be ascertained. Afterward we saw ostriches of every 
 age, from twelve days and upward, and no creature is more 
 grotesque and amusing than an ostrich two weeks old. 
 
The Pyramids axd the Sphinx. 221 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 
 
 Road to Pyramids and Scenes upon It — Traveling Bedouins — Ascent of Great 
 Pyramid — View from Summit — Interior of Cheops — " King's Chamber." 
 
 The oldest remains of the ingenuity and labor of mankind 
 are at once stupendous and mysterious. Their glory, how- 
 ever, consists not alone in their vastness and the everlasting 
 riddle which they propound, but in that they are not ruins. 
 " Everything fears Time, but Time fears the Pyramids, "said an 
 Arabian physician more than seven hundred years ago. The 
 " Father of History," Herodotus, describes them twenty-three 
 hundred years ago substantially as the}- are now, and when he 
 saw them they were probably older than is his history to-day. 
 Yet they stand ; and but for the wearing away of the surfaces 
 of the stones by human feet, if the visitor were told that the 
 work was finished in the first year of the present century he 
 would see nothing materially inconsistent in the statement. 
 
 A broad road, lined with trees, elevated by an embankment 
 above the highest inundation of the Xile, and conducted by a 
 magnificent iron bridge across the river, extends direct from 
 Cairo to the Pyramids, and can be traversed by carriage in 
 an hour and a half. Until 1868 an old roundabout donkej'' 
 road was the only means of reaching them, and this fre- 
 quently out of repair and obstructed by water. The Prince 
 and Princess of Wales were the first to drive without inter- 
 ruption from Cairo to the Pyramids. When the Suez Canal 
 f^tes were held in the following year, the road was in as per- 
 fect order as at the present time. 
 
 Early on a bright morning we began the ride under the guid- 
 ance of Mohammed Abdel Rahman, clad in the picturesque 
 costume of his race. Leaving the city we saw on either 
 hand a verdant landscape. In January everything is green 
 and the plain as level as the floor of a palace. Only the irri- 
 gating canals, sparkling like silver threads around an emerald. 
 
222 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 varied the color of the expanse. In every direction magnifi- 
 cent palms arose, some apparently more than one hundred 
 feet high, in the distance were the Pyramids; beyond these 
 the desert; behind us the city and citadel of Cairo. 
 
 The inhabitants of the road were yet more interesting. It 
 seemed as though all Egypt were moving toward Cairo: long 
 processions of camels, donkeys, and dromedaries, laden with 
 grass, vegetables, wood, and everything necessary for the sus- 
 tenance of the city; thousands of Bedouins, Egyptians, and Nu- 
 bians, hastening along on foot; beggars in every stage of deform- 
 ity and picturesqueness; children, half-naked, running to and 
 fro; cripples, leaping at a speed as fast as our horses were driven, 
 yelling, ^' Backsheesh ! Backsheesh !" sometimes screaming across 
 the canal, asking us to throw them something, chattering their 
 few words of English; orange peddlers holding up their tempt- 
 ing wares. Not till several miles had been passed did the 
 scene assume a more rural aspect. 
 
 The almost uniform testimony is true, that the Pyramids — 
 more resembling mountains than any structure of human 
 creation — seem small at a near approach; but it is an optical 
 illusion common in all mountainous countries where eleva- 
 tions are unusually steep. Niagara Falls generally disap- 
 points, but the longer one remains listening to the ceaseless 
 roar and beholding the endless flow, the more is he brought 
 under the spell of majesty, power, and indestructibility amid 
 restlessness. Thus the Pyramids weave an imperceptible 
 chain about the mind, which gradually but surely draws the 
 head forward and downward into the attitude of reverence, 
 and which only the human magpies that chatter here, and the 
 mercenary Arabs who hover about the visitors like vultures 
 intent upon prey, can resist. 
 
 A little before arriving at the Pyramids the road enters the 
 desert and rapidly ascends to the plateau on which they stand. 
 This plateau, formed of limestone rock, is about a hundred 
 feet above the plain. Upon it, near the Great Pyramid of 
 Cheops, is the Viceroyal Kiosque, in some of the rooms of 
 which travelers are allowed to rest. A hotel has been erected 
 at a short distance, where comfortable accommodations can be 
 obtained. With these exceptions the entire region is occupied 
 
Entrance to Pyramid. 
 
The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 225 
 
 by ancient monuments of different shapes. Above tower the 
 Pyramids, silent and immovable; beyond stretches the desert 
 to the remotest horizon. Its surface, agitated by the winds 
 then prevailing, appeared like a sea whose surges beat and 
 dash in vain against those massive barriers. Here and there 
 a solitary camel emerged, and as its rider rose and fell, 
 appeared, indeed, like a "ship of the desert." 
 
 Our attention was rudely drawn from this extraordinary 
 scene and the meditations to which it gave rise by a crowd of 
 tumultuous Bedouins, who surrounded us, offering to take us 
 to the summit. Their clamor was terrific. In a mixture of 
 Arabic and modern languages they set forth their qualifica- 
 tions. If these men were not in charge of a Sheik, respon- 
 sible for their fidelity and competent to keep order, the 
 traveler would fare badly. While we stood looking at them 
 the Sheik ordered one, who was unusually persistent, to go 
 back. On his refusal the Sheik struck him. He replied by a 
 vigorous blow, which did the Sheik considerable damage. 
 A general fight then began, all the Bedouins taking the side 
 of the Sheik. An officer appeared upon the scene with a 
 whip and beat the rebellious Bedouin across the face, and he 
 went away in the condition of the man who fell among thieves, 
 "wounded and half dead." 
 
 After much bargaining, we started -up the Great Pyramid in 
 charge of three men. Of these, two took hold of our hands, 
 and the third stood behind to push. The courses of stones 
 were so arranged as to make a series of steps from two to four 
 feet in height. The two pulled vigorously, but the third was 
 rather a hindrance than a help, for he did not accord with 
 the movements of the others, and generally gave a terrific 
 thrust after we had landed. 
 
 Several peculiarities about the ascent make it difficult and 
 to some perilous. The Arabs generally hurry the traveler 
 from the start. Harriet Martineau says that they are right in 
 taking people up quickly. It is trying to some heads to sit on a 
 narrow ledge and see a dazzling succession of ledges for two 
 or three hundred feet below. But such rapid breathing as is 
 required in a rapid ascent is itself a cause of dizziness. The 
 stones are of a light color, which becomes blinding in the in- 
 
226 Travels ix Thrkf, Continents. 
 
 tensit}^ of an almost torrid sun in a translucent atmosphere. 
 The hue of the exterior and of the desert at the foot being 
 similar, and the stones but a few feet in width, it seems as 
 though one were on an inclined plane, and the feeling that he 
 must fall takes possession of his mind. 
 
 Some who never waver upon the loftiest mountain summits, 
 or who could climb to the top of a mast at sea without giddi- 
 ness, have here been known to succumb. The only rational 
 way for those finding any difficulty is to ascend slowly, rest 
 frequently, and accustom the eye to the view, maintaining 
 the regularity of the heart's action and of the breathing, ^\'ith 
 the aid of the Arabs the ascent is not dangerous. Ladies fre- 
 quently make it, and I have known gentlemen more than sev- 
 enty-five years old to do so. ^^'ithout the guides it is perilous 
 except to those accustomed to the roughest mountain work. 
 Experience in ascending all trodden paths is of no value here. 
 An English soldier some years ago scorned the help and at- 
 tempted to descend alone, fell, and was dead and mutilated 
 almost beyond recognition before he reached the bottom. 
 
 A view from the summit is both elevating and depressing. 
 If one looks to the west he beholds the limitless desert, whose 
 monotony is broken only by ridges of rock a little browner 
 than the earth. Within the distance of a few miles south and 
 north more than sixty Pyramids lift their triangular sides 
 and pointed apexes above the sea of sand. Were it not for the 
 prospects toward the rising sun, the spectator would feel him- 
 self in the shadow of death. An awful sense of desolation 
 would weigh him down to the dust whence he was taken. His 
 nerves would fail, and he would be ready to glide from the 
 sands of time into the eternity, whose type is the circle of the 
 horizon, without beginning or end. But in the east the sun is 
 the symbol of human life, an outburst from darkness and 
 death. 
 
 The meadows intersected by irrigating canals, whose waters 
 in the sunlight were white as snow; the palm trees majestically 
 waving in the wind; the scores of villages; the high carriage 
 road, narrowing to a thread as it reaches the great city, with 
 its countless minarets and domes — this is a contrast as great 
 as that seen at the foot of the Mer de Glace, in the valley of 
 
The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 227 
 
 Chamuunix, where flowers bloom within a few inches of the 
 the glacier. 
 
 The Pyramids themselves, as the work of man, being far 
 higher than the summit of any natural object visible from them, 
 and vastly older than anything which the eye can descry, ex- 
 cept the earth and "the spacious firmament on high," are 
 more imposing than the limited segment of the globe which 
 can be seen by ascending them. 
 
 An exploration of the interior of the Pyramid of Cheops in- 
 creases the sense of its magnitude. I entered it about forty- 
 five feet from the ground, and, under the guidance of the 
 Arabs, climbed, traveling as a quadruped rather than as a 
 man, for one hundred and ninety feet, along a passage three 
 feet five inches high and four feet wide, more or less obstructed 
 with sand and small stones. We then reached the Queen's 
 Chamber, a room nineteen by seventeen, and twenty feet in 
 height, roofed with blocks of stone, wonderfully adjusted, and 
 ventilated by airholes. This apartment stands immediately 
 under the apex of the Pyramid, but is four hundred and seven 
 feet below the original summit. Hence we traversed a passage 
 quite irregular. 
 
 At one point an Arab descended one hundred feet, and 
 lighted a candle that I might see the reflection. The solem- 
 nity of the scene was broken by his demand for backsheesh as 
 he emerged from the darkness. After various wanderings I 
 reached the King's Chamber, which is seventy- one feet above 
 that previously visited. It is roofed with granite, consisting 
 of nine slabs, each eighteen and a half feet long, and of great 
 thickness. To prevent the whole from being crushed in, the 
 builders relieved the ceiling of the weight by placing five hol- 
 low chambers above it. In it is the sarcophagus, without lid, 
 inscription, contents. When struck, as it was by the Arabs 
 frequently, the sound was like that of a cathedral bell. 
 
 To entertain me the Bedouins gave vent to fearful yells, 
 which reverberated in the sepulcher like the roars of wild 
 beasts in dens and caves of the earth, or, as one might fancy, 
 shrieks of prisoners in deep dungeons, made insane by their 
 miseries. I was fain to sing a cheerful hymn, but the echoes 
 transformed it into a wail of despair. 
 
228 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 The catacombs which I have seen in Runie and in Russia 
 are less impressive than these dark, silent realms, tenanted by 
 those who lived and died centuries before the first stone of 
 Jerusalem, Athens, or Rome was laid. 
 
 Miss Martineau says with truth: "The symmetry and 
 finish so deepen the gloom as to make it seem like a fit prison 
 house for fallen angels." 
 
 On issuing from this labyrinth of sepulchers the first thing 
 I saw was the "(}reat American Combination Baseball Club," 
 which had been making a tour round the world, preparing to 
 play a game on the sand betw'een the Pyramids and the 
 Sphinx! Mummy of Cheops! has it come to this? 
 
'1'he Pyramids and the Sphinx. 22q 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIIl. 
 The Pyramids and the Sphinx. — (Continued.) 
 
 History of Pyramids and Reasons Why They Were Uuilt — Uesciiption of 
 the Sphinx — Antiquity — Campbell's Tomb — Extraordinary Agility of a 
 Bedouin — Incidents of tlie Trip. 
 
 Concerning the Pyramids, we naturally ask, Who built 
 them, and why? How were they built, and when? Substan- 
 tial unity of opinion exists upon the question "Who?" The 
 greatest was built by Khufu, known to the Greeks as Cheops; 
 the second in size by Khafra, called by the Greeks Chephren; 
 the third by Menkaura, whom the Greeks called Mycerinus. 
 The builder of the second is said by most authorities to be the 
 brother of the first, but by some to be his son; and the builder 
 of the third is generally conceded to have been the son of the 
 builder of the first. 
 
 "When "they were built depends upon the principle of 
 chronology adopted. The dispute turns upon whether the 
 lists given by Manetho include dynasties contemporaneous or 
 successive. Egyptology is now a science. In Cairo and other 
 places hundreds of volumes, including mathematical calcula- 
 tions, architectural drawings, and theoretical speculations, 
 are collected. Boats traversing the Nile have libraries contain- 
 ing the standard authors. In historical and theological works, 
 as well as in the guidebooks, some of which are brought to a 
 high degree of completeness, various hypotheses are proposed. 
 Three standard authorities differ as follows: Mariette puts the 
 fourth dynasty, of which Cheops was the second king, as 
 beginning in the year 4235 B. C. ; Lepsius in the year 3124 
 B. C. ; ^^'ilkinson in the year 2450 B. C. Cheops is said to 
 have reigned fifty-six and Chephren fifty years. 
 
 "Why" were they built? Five or six theories have been in- 
 vented and strenuously defended: that they were temples; 
 that they were sepulchers; that they were mere monuments 
 of ostentation ; that they were designed for astronomical and 
 
230 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 f)ther scientific ]Hirposes; that they were symbols of the "Orig- 
 inal of Things." Dr. Piazzi Smyth, long a Director of the 
 Royal Astronomical Observatory at Edinburgh, holds that the 
 Pyramid of Cheops is a "meteorological monument" and "a 
 standard of measures." A multitude of sermons have been 
 illustrated by extended reasonmgs and quotations from his 
 book, which, when issued, made a sensation in a limited 
 sphere. But all theories, except that they were tombs, have 
 failed to command the assent of any considerable number of 
 competent investigators. 
 
 From a passage written by Mariette Bey I condense the 
 considerations in favor of their simply being tombs. There is 
 not in Egypt a single Pyramid that is not situated in a necrop- 
 olis. Only one has accessible interior chambers from which 
 astronomical observations might have been made. Their 
 sides are accurately arranged, because for mythological rea- 
 sons they are dedicated to the four cardinal points of the 
 compass. They were massive, complete, without windows and 
 without doors; hence intended to be " the gigantic and for- 
 ever impenetrable casing of a mummy." The archaeology of 
 the monumental customs of Egypt confirms this, and the vast 
 size of some raises no argument against it, because there are 
 many not more than twenty feet high. 
 
 Lepsius has explained, in a manner to account for all the 
 facts, the plan upon which they were formed. When a king 
 ascended the throne he began to build his Pyramid; com- 
 mencing on a small scale, so that, if his reign should be short, 
 his tomb might be finished. As time went on he enlarged it 
 by adding outer coatings of stone until he felt that he was 
 soon to die. At his death the last coating was finished. The 
 first step was to level the earth, the next to excavate subter- 
 ranean chambers, then to build a Pyramid with very steep 
 walls. If the king died when this was finished, a summit was 
 placed upon it; otherwise, each year a new series of stones 
 was arranged around it. 
 
 Two facts prove this theory correct. The inside is always 
 most carefully constructed. The larger the size the more 
 roughly the outer crusts were executed, while the smallest 
 Pyramids invariably consist of the simple structure described by 
 
The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 231 
 
 Lepsius. Most of the stone was quarried on the east bank of 
 the Nile, in subterranean works, which are still used. The 
 stone now, as in ancient times, is transported to the banks of 
 the Nile by means of camels and mules, but tramways have 
 been recently laid. A road was built from the Nile to the 
 Pyramids, and stone brought over it and raised on piles of 
 wooden slabs, "rocking the stones up alternately to one side 
 and the other by a spar under the block, thus heightening the 
 piles alternately, and so raising the stones." Sheet iron was 
 used " to prevent crowbars biting into the stones and to ease 
 the action of the rollers." Recent experiments have proved 
 that this method could be applied to the heaviest stones in the 
 Great Pyramid, which average seven hundred cubic feet, each 
 weighing about fifty-four tons. 
 
 The Egyptians believed in the immortality of the soul, but 
 knew nothing of the resurrection of the body; hence the im- 
 portance of preserving the mummy. They located their cem- 
 eteries in the desert to escape the inundations of the Nile. In 
 rich excavated tomb chambers kings attempted to surpass all 
 private persons. These tombs of royalty are either covered 
 with mounds or blocks of stone. To protect them from the 
 sand tempests of the desert they were covered with stones. 
 "The sepulchral mounds thus acquired a definite form. They 
 became square structures tapering upward, and gradually 
 assumed the pyramidal shape." It is easy to see that the 
 Pyramid, being practically solid, much larg£r at the founda- 
 tion than elsewhere, and least exposed to the winds at the 
 higher elevations, could more successfully resist decay, attack, 
 concussion, whether of storm or wind, the acticMi of water 
 (had there been any in Egypt), and the devastations of earth- 
 quakes. Add the dryness of the atmosphere as a protection, 
 and the preservative influence of the sand itself, which in for- 
 mer ages extended well up toward their summits, and the 
 greater relative durability of these structures over other 
 monuments of human industry, though still wonderful, ceases 
 to be mysterious. 
 
 After leaving the Great Pyramid I mounted a camel and rode 
 to the Sphinx. The distance is not more than a quarter of a 
 mile, and the ride part of the "sentiment" of the tour. It 
 
232 Travki.s in Thrke Continents. 
 
 has been crront'ously supposed by many that there is but 
 one Spliinx. 'I'he avenue leading to the Cireat Temple is 
 flanked by Sphinxes. They generally consist of a lion's 
 body with the head of a man, called Androsphinx, or w ith the 
 head of a ram. It was the discovery by Mariette of the head 
 of a Sphinx appearing through the sand thai led to the identi- 
 fication of the Serapeum, or the Apis Mausoleum. In two 
 months he excavated an avenue six hundred feet long and ex- 
 posed to view one hundred and forty-one Sphinxes entire, 
 besides pedestals of many more. But that before which we then 
 stood is so far superior to all others, and was so long known 
 while they were forgotten, as to be preeminently the Sphinx. 
 
 The pictures and photographs so common in books of 
 travel, geographies, and works on Egypt, give a fair view of 
 the features of the Sphinx, but they are of little use owing to 
 the impossibility of representing such a colossal figure, to 
 which nothing analogous exists in the observer's experience. 
 
 The body is one hundred and forty feet long, of naked, 
 natural rock, supplemented by masonry to give it the proper 
 shape. The head is cut out of the solid rock and is thirty feet 
 from the top to the bottom of the chin, and fourteen feet wide. 
 In ancient times there was a cap upon it adorned with the erect 
 figure of an asp. The wig is still there. It also has a beard, 
 fragments of which I saw on mv last visit to the British 
 Museum. The ears are four and a half feet, the nose five feet 
 seven inches, the mouth seven feet seven inches in length. 
 The front paws are fifty feet in length, and between them were 
 found an altar and a kind of sanctuary composed of three tab- 
 lets. Many of the interesting discoveries of modern times are 
 alreadv concealed bvsand, which continuallv accumulates not- 
 withstanding everything which has been done to prevent it. 
 
 The imagination of travelers wonderfullv stimulated bv the 
 proximity of the Pyramids and other intoxicating remains of 
 high antiquity, the unlikeness to all other civilization, the mys- 
 terious Nile, the fascinating sky, and the half-revealing, half- 
 concealing desert, have surrounded the Sphinx with a beauty 
 and majesty which it is the fashion to depict with enthusiasm. 
 
 It has been said to have "a calm, majestic expression of 
 countenance," to be "very beautiful," to have "a graceful 
 
H 
 tr 
 o 
 
 •a 
 
 5' 
 
 X 
 
 J^^-v 
 
The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 235 
 
 and lovely mouth," and "to smile graciousl}'." Dean Stanley 
 says there is something overpowering in the sight of that enor- 
 mous head, and thus speculates: "What must it have been 
 when on its head was the royal helmet of Egypt; on its chin 
 the royal beard ; when the stone pavement by which men ap- 
 proached the Pyramids ran up between its paws; when im- 
 mediately under its heart an altar stood from which the smoke 
 went up into the gigantic nostrils of that nose, now vanished 
 from the face, never to be conceived again ! " But when it is 
 remembered that no living person or modern writer ever saw 
 the Sphinx before it was mutilated to such an extent that no 
 one can even pretend to say whether the features are Negro, 
 Nubian, or Egyptian, "whether they be sublimely beautiful or 
 sweetly smiling, calmly benevolent, or awe inspiring, typical 
 of solemn majesty or debased idolatry," we are obliged to 
 consider what it fs. 
 
 As it now stands, it is an enormous mutilated head whose 
 features cannot be distinguished much more clearly than those 
 of the Old Man of the Mountain in the Franconia Notch. Its 
 antiquity is exceeding, its possible symbolical meanings numer- 
 ous and sufficiently diverse to furnish materials for endless 
 speculation, the only indisputable fact being that it was wor- 
 shiped as a local deity. 
 
 I would not intimate that it is not an imposing monument, 
 or that it made no impression upon me; but it failed to justify 
 the fame accorded it by those whose descriptions are most 
 frequently read and heard. One writer is almost ludicrous in 
 his assertion of its extraordinary character, and yet confesses in 
 the same sentence that it is not beautiful by any standard now 
 known: "Comely the creature is, but the comeliness is not of 
 this world; the once w'orshiped beast is a deformity and a 
 monster to this generation, and yet you can say that those lips, 
 so thick and heavy, were fashioned according to some ancient 
 mold of beauty." The penetration that sees comeliness in 
 something that is a monster to the present generation, and 
 discerns that it was formed according to an extinct and in- 
 comprehensible "mold of beauty," is a mysterious gift with- 
 held from common mortals! 
 
 Close to the Sphinx, and not yet fullv determined to be con- 
 
236 Travels ix 'Ihree Continents. 
 
 nected with it, is the granite temple exhumed by Mariette in 
 
 I saw a tomb, named at the time of its discovery, "Camp- 
 bell's Tomb," after a British consul general, which interested 
 me, because I had seen one of the sarcophagi found in it in 
 the British Museum. It is thirtv and a half feet bv twentv-six. 
 and fifty-three and three quarters feet in depth. A\'hen the 
 party had finished looking at it, and were about to go away, 
 a tall, lithe, graceful, and handsome Bedouin descended to 
 the bottom, and then performed a feat of extraordinary 
 strength and agility. He climbed from the bottom to the top 
 in one of the angles of the walls, adhering by lateral pressure 
 of hands and feet to the two sides, with his face tow^ard the 
 center. There were a few places an inch or two in depth in 
 which he could place his feet, but for a very considerable part 
 of the way he adhered by hands and feet as a fly does to a 
 ceiling. 
 
 He then offered to ascend the Great Pyramid of Cheops and 
 descend in the space of eight minutes. This he was willing to 
 do for a backsheesh of five francs. Believing it impossible I 
 offered him the amount, and with the grace and agility of a 
 gazelle he leaped in his bare feet upon the stones, moved like 
 the wind from height to height, and absolutely performed the 
 feat in the space of six miniites and a half. He was clothed 
 in white, and, as he descended with a kind of flying trapeze 
 motion, his raiment streaming in the wind, he presented the 
 most bewildering phase of human action that I have ever seen 
 except the performances of Blondin. 
 
 As the old stage driver in California always talks about 
 Horace Greeley and his wonderful ride, and the sea captain on 
 the Baltic points out the room on his vessel occupied by Gen- 
 eral Grant, and guides speak here of the Prince of Wales and 
 there of the Czar of Russia, so the Bedouin conductors at the 
 Pyramids name their great man. 
 
 The only name mentioned to us, and that very frequently 
 by the Bedouins, when they discovered that we were Americans, 
 was our distinguished fellow-citizen, Mark Twain. So far as 
 we could gather, either he must have ascended the Pyramids 
 twenty-five or thirty times, or required a vast amount of aid, for 
 
The Pyramids and the Sphinx. 237 
 
 nearly every man had lent a hand in helping him to the top; or 
 it maybe that, just before leaving, the " Innocent Abroad " 
 distributed backsheesh to the entire party. 
 
 Our visit to the Pyramids was a true type of human life — a 
 mixture of the grave and the gay. One of the gentlemen who 
 had traveled with us from Cairo, when he was rejoicing in a 
 successful ascent and exploration of the interior, under the 
 tension of mental excitement and physical weariness, fell un- 
 conscious into the arms of the Arabs, and until he opened his 
 eyes and said, "How long have I been in this state?" it was 
 not certain that the expedition would not end in a tragedy. 
 But it was soon over. 
 
 On my first visit, not being quite well, when about halfway 
 up my knees smote together, my head swam, and I was com- 
 pelled to descend. But one month afterward, on a bright day, 
 1 returned and ascended, without fatigue, to the top in twenty 
 minutes, including two short rests. 
 
 For travelers in ordinary health, without tendency to ver- 
 tigo, the ascent is not perilous, and invalids may find pleasure 
 and refreshment in the ride over the beautiful road to the 
 scene of mankind's only successful conflict with-time. 
 
238 Travels i\ Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 On the Nile. 
 
 Importance of the Nile — Cause of Annual Overflow — Influence upon Intel- 
 lectual Character of Egyptians — Way of Traveling on the Nile before 
 Steamboats Were Introduced — Passengers on tiie Prince Abbas. 
 
 The Nile occupies a position of solitary, unapproachable 
 grandeur. Its sources were the mystery of ages; its annual 
 overflow was considered supernatural; and it was worshiped 
 as a god by the most intellectual nation of antiquity. Herod- 
 otus called Egypt the ''Gift of the Nile," and later historians 
 and modern scientists have greatly enlarged the scope of the 
 declaration. For two thousand years European explorers tried 
 to ascertain the sources of the Nile. Most of the authorities 
 place them now in the Victoria Nyanza, but it is maintained by 
 some that its head stream is probably to be found in the 
 Shimiju, which rises five degrees south of the equator. 
 
 As 1 approached Egypt all other objects, even the Pyramids 
 and the ruins, diminished in interest compared with the burn- 
 ing curiosity which I felt to see the Nile. The first impression, 
 like that of the Mississippi, was disappointing. 
 
 The Nile makes Egypt; without it the Arabian and Libyan 
 deserts would unite, and not a green spot, except here and 
 there a small oasis, would break the monotony. The river 
 flows northward, receiving various large tributaries, until it 
 reaches Khartoom, where General Gordon was killed, to 
 which point it is known as the White Nile. From the sea to 
 Khartoom by the river is not far from two thousand miles. 
 There it is joined by the Blue Nile, which rises in the moun- 
 tains of Abyssinia, and before reaching Khartoom becomes a 
 mighty river. Generally speaking, the Blue Nile furnishes 
 only one third as much water as the White Nile, but after the 
 rains fall in the spring and summer its proportion is greatly in- 
 creased. It pours down thick with mud washed from the 
 Abyssinian mountains, and changes the color of the stream, 
 
On the Nile. 239 
 
 as the Saone changes the color of the Rhone, with which 
 it unites at Lyons. 
 
 From Khartoom the Nile flows to the sea, without a trib- 
 utary for the last sixteen hundred and twenty miles; Humboldt 
 declares that this is without parallel. It has brought down 
 and deposited alluvial mud at an average depth of thirty feet. 
 As the water was unusually low, we could see the different 
 strata on the perpendicular walls of the river to this depth. 
 
 Zincke, in his elaborate work on Egypt, illustrates how this 
 is done by a reference to the valley of the Platte, above Jules- 
 burg, in our own countr}'. The Platte, he says, writhes like 
 a snake from side to side of its flat valley, continually chang- 
 ing its channel as it washes up bars and banks; and the bluffs, 
 though now generally at a considerable distance from the river, 
 must have been formed by it when it was working first against 
 one and then against the other side of the valley. The whole 
 valley of the Nile is from four and a half to ten miles in Nubia, 
 and fourteen to thirty-two miles in Egypt. The breadth of 
 the soil that can be cultivated nowhere exceeds nine miles. 
 
 The general cause of the annual overflow is the amount of 
 rain that falls in Central Africa. This is very uniform in 
 amount, being affected by the trade winds. In the Abyssin- 
 ian mountains it is less regular, and may do immense damage; 
 if there is too much it destroys the dikes and embankments, 
 much property, and often human lives. Generally the river 
 begins to swell early in June; about the third week in July it 
 rises rapidly; toward the last of September it remains station- 
 ary for ten days or more; but early in October it again rises 
 and reaches its greatest height. After it begins to fall it rises 
 again, then slowly diminishes, and at last subsides rapidly. 
 We were on the Nile during the greater part of February and 
 a part of ^larch. The river was exceedingly low, and the cul- 
 tivated land dry as dust. Two feet too much will cause ter- 
 rible devastation in lower Egypt, and three or four feet too 
 little drought and famine in upper Egypt. Too much will 
 cause more devastation than formerly, as the cotton fields, on 
 which prosperity depends, will be destroyed by floods. 
 
 The accounts in geographies and works of travel written 
 thirty or forty years ago do not apply to the pi^esent condition 
 
J40 Tkavf.ls in Three Continents. 
 
 of Egypt. Then the inundation produced a vast lake, and the 
 water flowed directly out of the river over the fields. At 
 present the whole country is scientifically irrigated; water let 
 from the river into reservoirs and canals, and distributed on 
 the same principles as are employed in California, Utah, and 
 other parts of the United States. It is drawn into immense 
 basins, properly situated in relation to the cultivable land. 
 These are at different levels, and the water is retained until it 
 has sufficiently saturated the whole soil and furnished the nec- 
 essary amount of mud. We saw only the machinery; except 
 the irrigating streams and canals, there was no running water 
 to be seen in all Egypt. 
 
 The influence of the Nile upon the intellectual character of 
 Egypt was equally powerful. It was protected from the en- 
 croachments of other countries by its position in the midst of 
 a wide desert. Its soil was so fertile, climate so balmy, an- 
 nual supply of manure and water so regular and reliable, that 
 it had no difiiculty in procuring food, and there was almost al- 
 ways "corn in Egypt." Therefore its people, not all being 
 required to wrest from unwilling nature the means of sub- 
 sistence, could devote themselves to intellectual pursuits. It 
 had a winter and summer harvest, "the riches of the climates 
 of two zones." "Its winter, by reason of its environment by 
 the heat-accumulating desert," resembles a European summer, 
 and its summer that of the tropics. Both wheat and cotton 
 grow under its palms. 
 
 Those who have studied deeply into the matter say that the 
 Egyptians learned engineering because of the necessity of con- 
 trolling the Nile and distributing its water; that they received 
 their first impulse to the study of astronomy in order that they 
 might know when to expect the overflow; that as the river 
 destroyed all landmarks they were compelled to master sur- 
 veying, and create the science of law in order to maintain the 
 rights of property; and that it was the river which awakened 
 their religious sentiment. Moreover it was the Nile which en- 
 abled them to transport the materials of which they built their 
 imperishable structures; and as they had a navigable highway 
 for commerce running the entire length of their country, they 
 naturally learned to construct vessels. 
 
On the Nile. 241 
 
 Genesis says: "The Lord made a covenant with Abrani, 
 saying, Unto tliy seed have 1 given this land, from the riv^r 
 of Egypt unto the great river, the river Euphrates." Or the 
 bank of this stream Pharaoh's daughter found the ark of bul- 
 rushes in which Moses lay, and it was this river whose waters 
 were turned into blood. 
 
 The old-fashioned way of traveling upon the Nile for 
 pleasure or exploration was by the dahabeah. Charles Dudley 
 Warner's My Winter on the Nile gives a graphic description of 
 the pleasures, and the pains, too, of this method. If one has 
 a whole winter to spend in Egypt, and merely desires to enjoy 
 the climate and scenery, and study leisurely the ruins and the 
 people; if he has plenty of money, and company of which he 
 is sure he will never tire; or if he is an artist and desires to 
 sketch, and if in addition to that he has an inexhaustible sup- 
 ply of good humor, the dahabeah is to be preferred. As these 
 conditions are enjoyed by but few, had not steamboats been 
 placed upon the river, travel upon the Nile would have been 
 confined to a limited number. My temperament Avould not 
 bear the slow rate of progress in a dahabeah. For a fortnight 
 it might be endured, but many who experimented with it dur- 
 ing that winter left their vessels and took passage upon the 
 steamers, wearied beyond endurance by the uncertainties and 
 delays. Our vessel was the Prince Abbas. There were fifty- 
 two passengers, among them an aged lawyer from Chicago, 
 with his wife and two children; Professor Hirschberg, of 
 the University of Berlin, one of the Vice Presidents of the 
 International Society of Oculists; two clergymen of the Church 
 of England, one accompanied by his daughter, the other in the 
 mazes of an agonizing courtship, which culminated in a prop- 
 osition and acceptance before the voyage ended; a brother of 
 the Hon.. Joseph Chamberlain, distinguished parliamentarian 
 and diplomat; a retired Brooklyn merchant w^ith his wife and 
 two daughters; a young New York lawyer, who had done so 
 well in a year that his father had sent him on a tour around the 
 world; a Michigan lumber merchant with his wife; a Scottish 
 Presbyterian minister, the Rev. Mr. Scotland; a wealthy cit- 
 izen of the United Kingdom, who would have been more 
 charming if he had practiced total, or even partial, abstinence; 
 
242 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 a South American, who had made a fortune and was traveling 
 around the world preparatory to settling in France, his native 
 country; several Canadians; two ladies, scions of the English 
 nobility; several couples on their wedding tours; a Swed- 
 ish gentleman, who spoke many languages and suffered with 
 lumbago; and Henry Gilman, Consul of the United States at 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 The vessel was built after the style of the Ohio and ISIissis- 
 sippi boats, flat bottom, three stories high. The general 
 management was good; the food and cooking in the early 
 part of the voyage excellent, and perhaps not more monoto- 
 nous toward the close than might be expected. 
 
Memphis and Sakkara. 243 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 Memphis and Sakkara. 
 
 Scene at Starting — The Khedive's Steam Yacht — Scenery — Scramble of 
 Donkey Boys for Riders — The Greatest Capital of Egypt — Colossal Statue 
 of Rameses II — Sakkara — The Step Pyramid and Serapeum — Description 
 of Interior of Step Pyramid — Account of Discovery of Serapeum by Mariette 
 Bey. 
 
 Punctually at ten o'clock on Tuesday, February 12, the 
 intending voyagers up the Nile were on board. The peculiar 
 excitement which attends the beginning of an ocean voyage 
 was not manifest. The vessel carried no freight, was not com- 
 pelled to maintain a reputation for speed, would never be out 
 of sight of land, nor at that season would it ever be where 
 passengers could not wade ashore. No natives were traveling 
 except in the service of the company, no mails were carried, 
 and those who came down to bid the passengers farewell were 
 themselves far from home, or transient acquaintances. Still 
 it was an animated scene, much resembling the starting of an 
 old-fashioned steamer on the Mississippi. 
 
 Soon we met the royal steamer bearing the Khedive to the 
 capital. The vessel was a fine steam yacht. The subordinate 
 officers accompanying the Khedive wore conspicuous uniforms. 
 We passed near enough to the vessel to have a fine view of the 
 Khedive, who bowed with genuine oriental grace in return for 
 our cheers, flag showing, whistle blowing, and handkerchief 
 waving, salute after salute having been fired from the time 
 the royal yacht was sighted. One must go to the East to 
 realize the beauty and amplitude of which the bow is capable. 
 
 The country along the banks of the river was charming. 
 The corn was growing, its lio-fit green contrasting with the 
 rich emerald color of the perennial palms. Where the grass 
 could be seen from the deck of the vessel the whole landscape 
 seemed carpeted, the roads appearing like avenues through a 
 park. Here and there tall sycamores rivaled the palms in 
 
244 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 height. 'I'urning from the shore we saw luunerous dahabeahs^ 
 fishing and freight boats, and once a small vessel bearing two 
 enormous camels, which were apparently large enough to upset 
 the vessel, had they the power to combine. There were plenty 
 wild fowl and not a few pelicans flying above or swimming in 
 the waters. The sky was absolutely clear, and the air as pure 
 as ever fans the earth. 
 
 At noon we came to anchor, and witnessed the first of 
 scenes that never failed in interest — the scramble of the donkey 
 boys for riders. The vessel carried side-saddles for the 
 ladies; the donkeys were owned by men who contracted with 
 the company for a small sum. The donkey boys got most of 
 their pay from the gratuities given by travelers. There were 
 more donkeys than passengers; some better, some worse. The 
 meaner looking the animal the more vociferous the declara- 
 tions that " he is a very good donkey " and the boy " a very 
 nice donkey boy." Many of these had picked up considerable 
 English and some French and German. They display great 
 ingenuity in carrying on a conversation with the few words 
 they know. 
 
 Our destination ''by donkey" was Memphis, the greatest 
 capital of Egypt. The site of ancient Memphis is now called 
 Mitrahenny. After riding over the plains and through the 
 palm groves we came to the colossal statue, about forty- 
 two feet in height, of Rameses II, its head of limestone. 
 It was discovered by Caviglia in 1820, and presented by 
 Mohammed Ali to the British Museum, provided it should be 
 taken to England. Nine months of the year it is under water, 
 but of late it has been lifted several feet, and now lies on its 
 side. Mariette Bey says the statues of Rameses are so com- 
 mon that science would attach no importance to this one were 
 it not that the head, modeled with a grandeur of style which 
 one never tires of admiring, is an authentic portrait of the cel- 
 ebrated conqueror of the Nineteenth Dynasty. We climbed 
 over it as grasshoppers might have done. As in all the rep- 
 resentations of Rameses, there is an incipient smile upon 
 the features, an expression of complacency unmistakable, if 
 judged by the indications of that state of feeling natural to 
 occidentals. There is, however, a mystery in oriental expres- 
 
$ss^^cr^>=^s^^ws*j 
 
 '^as-f-f^^^^ ~r 
 
Memphis and Sakkara. 247 
 
 sions of countenance which does not always admit of interpreta- 
 tion by Western standards. 
 
 Although Memphis was probably the largest city in Egypt, 
 and perhaps the oldest; though it was many miles in length, 
 and so magnificent that the Pyramids Abousir, Sakkara, and 
 Dashoor are but its cemeteries; though its streets were more 
 than half a day's journey in length; though it exerted a pro- 
 found influence upon the destiny of the human race, and 
 though down to eight hundred years ago its ruins were such 
 as to cause a discriminating traveler and scientist to say, "As 
 for the figures of idols that are found among those ruins, 
 whether as regards their number or their enormcnis matrnitude 
 it is something that baffles description, and of which one can 
 hardly convey any idea," and led him to regard as pardonable 
 the popular belief that the ancient Egyptians were giants of 
 fabulous longevity who had the power of moving masses of rock 
 with a magician's wand; and, notwithstanding it existed, ac- 
 cording to Wilkinson nearly three thousand years, to Lepsius 
 nearly four thousand, and to Mariette Bey five thousand, 
 nothing remains but mounds, ruins of walls, broken columns, 
 and defaced statues and idols, above which wave palm trees, 
 and about which grow weeds and rank grass! 
 
 Mariette Bey, in his Mfluiimciits of Upper E^i^ypf, quotes 
 Jeremiah, and declares that his gloomy threatenings are liter- 
 ally fulfilled. 
 
 From Memphis we rode several miles to Sakkara. This is a 
 village of no importance, but gives its name to the Necropolis 
 of Memphis, which is adjacent. It lies on the verge of the 
 sands of the desert, and is four and a half miles long, in the 
 narrowest part being about a third of a mile wide, and in the 
 broadest a mile. Here the exploration has been more thorough 
 than in any other place. 
 
 It is impossible for one who does not remain in Egypt for 
 years, devoting himself exclusively to the work, to visit the 
 whole of this cemetery. The Pyramids, especially the Step 
 Pyramid, the Serapeum, and certain tombs admit of easy ex- 
 ploration by travelers. The Step Pyramid, which is visible at 
 a great distance, is believed by some to have been erected by 
 a king of the first dynasty, which would make it the most 
 
24S Travkls in Three Continents. 
 
 ancient structure in the world; others assign to it a later 
 origin. It consists of six stages, si.x and one half feet wide, 
 varying in height. One of my companions climbed to the 
 summit, finding various portions in a ruinous condition. 
 
 It was opened in 1821. Immediately under the center is 
 an excavation seventy-seven feet deep and twenty-four feet 
 square; the top is dome-shaped, the bottom paved with granite, 
 and underneath was an opening concealed by a granite block 
 that weighed four tons. From it lead intricate passages, for- 
 merly lined with vitrified porcelain slabs, similar to those 
 known as Dutch tiles. A chamber was discovered which had 
 not been ransacked by thieves, and in it thirty mummies were 
 found. 
 
 On the Sakkara plateau there are eleven Pyramids, and from 
 elevated points more than sixt}'' are in sight. The Serapeum 
 was the most curious monument which we saw there. Its dis- 
 covery was romantic. In 1850 Mariette Bey was commis- 
 sioned by the French government to visit the Coptic convents 
 of Egypt, and to make a catalogue of such manuscripts as he 
 should find in oriental languages. He noticed at Alexandria, 
 in a private garden, several Sphinxes. Soon he saw mo;"e at 
 Cairo, and still more at Gizeh, and was convinced that there 
 must be an avenue of Sphinxes which was being pillaged. He 
 was led to discover this avenue by perceiving the head of one 
 of the Sphinxes protruding from the sand. He began to dig, 
 and drew such treasures from the sand as to convince him, 
 on referring to a passage in Strabo, that he was discover- 
 ing the route to the Serapeum. The French government 
 aided him, and in four years the discovery was complete. Two 
 months of the work revealed an avenue six hundred feet long, 
 and laid bare one hundred and forty-one Sphinxes. When he 
 had gone down seventy feet he found a semicircle of statues 
 representing the most famous philosophers and writers of 
 Greece, some having names at the bottom. Among the ob- 
 jects found were two lions and various golden ornaments that 
 were in the coffin of the favorite son of Rameses II. The 
 two lions and two of the ornaments I saw some years ago in 
 the Louvre in Paris, where they are preserved. 
 
The Tomb of Tih. 249 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 The Tomb of Tih, and the Voyage and Visit to 
 
 Beni-Hassan. 
 
 Painting in Tomb of Tih — Pyramid of Maydoom — Cliaracteristic Scenes — 
 Nile Fish— Palms— Cliffs of Gebel et Tayr— The " Mountain of tlie Bird," 
 and its Legend — Origin of Fable of Charon and the River Styx — Tombs of 
 Beni-Hassan. 
 
 The tomb of Tih (or Thy) is claimed by Egyptologists to 
 be one of the most interesting and instructive in Egypt, and it is 
 certainly an excellent preparation for the further examination 
 of the wonders of upper Egypt. It has been so damaged by 
 explorers, "the would-be archaeologists, who with their wet 
 squeeze-paper have destroyed in so many places the brilliant 
 colors that centuries have spared," the savants who have cut 
 off and carried off large pieces of the sculpture and talceu 
 them to museums in different parts of the world, and the 
 wretches who have written names all over the tomb, that some 
 have almost regretted its discovery. It is to the sand of 
 Egypt that the preservation of these things is due, for had 
 they not been covered, the abominable vandals, the same in all 
 ages, who are prevented only by the strong arm of the law 
 from carrying on the work of devastation, and consider it 
 smart to evade it when they can, would have ruined every- 
 thing. The paintings in the tomb of Tih are divided into 
 three parts. The scenes of the first relate to him as living. 
 Women of his household are dancing before him, musicians are 
 playing upon instruments, and singers are accompanying them 
 beating time, x^gain he is shooting in the marshes, standing 
 in a boat, letting fly what we call stool pigeons; around the 
 bark are hippopotami and crocodiles, and servants trying 
 to catch them. There are representations of pastoral life, 
 a brook, cows grazing, calves feeding in the meadow, herds- 
 men driving goats; then harvest time is depicted, and so 
 on through the entire course of the life of a prosperous and 
 14 
 
250 Tkavkls in Three Coxiinents. 
 
 happy man. Scenes relating to his death follow. Here he 
 is represented as dead, but standing in a bark watching the 
 conveyance of his own mummy into the necropolis. After- 
 ward the bringing in of funereal gifts is portrayed, including 
 bread, wine, fruits of the earth, limbs of animals. The dead 
 man is seated, the procession with the offerings passing before 
 him. Priests chant hymns. 
 
 Of the books, the best extant, which I have procured upon 
 Egypt, none has pleased me so much as the Monuvients of 
 Upper Egypt, by Auguste Mariette Bey, entitled in the original, 
 Itineraire de la Haute- Egyptc. 
 
 Proceeding up the Nile, we saw in the distance, about four 
 miles from the shore, the Pyramid of Maydoom, called by the 
 Arabs the False Pyramid. It has this opprobrious name be- 
 cause the nucleus of it is natural rock, which is built around 
 so as to give the shape of a pyramid — a peculiarity which dis- 
 tinguishes it from all others. 
 
 During the afternoon we were delighted, while gliding past, 
 with the view of the villages, the banks covered with trees, the 
 buffaloes standing or lying in the water, the multitude of dogs, 
 women coming to the river filling water jars and washing 
 clothes. The buffalo was introduced from India, and has al- 
 most taken the place of the ox for agricultural purposes. They 
 are stronger, more enduring, and require less care. Buffalo 
 milk is good, furnishing rich cream and butter. 
 
 There were long stretches of sand banks, and upon and 
 over them immense numbers of water birds. Occasionally 
 a pelican, six feet from the tip of the beak to the tail, could 
 be seen, like a vessel at anchor. Storks, cranes, and her- 
 ons were wading. Flocks of geese were flying early in the 
 morning, and in the evening their loud screams could be 
 heard. 
 
 Though here and there we saw a fisherman, and fish are 
 abundant, the less said of them the better. "They are all 
 soft, woolly, and have a strong flavor of mud." There is a 
 rock in the stream near the shore in the vicinity of these sand 
 banks which the Arabs poetically call Hagar s-Salam, or Stone 
 of Welfare. They have a superstitious belief that a journey 
 down the Nile cannot be called prosperous until that is passed. 
 
The Tomb of Tih. 251 
 
 Mourxtains rise some hundreds of feet in height along the 
 bank of the Nile, but the river leaves them as it proceeds west- 
 ward. Noble palm trees, which form thick groves around the 
 villages, are everywhere the finest features of the landscape, and 
 when the graceful minaret rises from among them, the scene 
 is attractive. On approaching the village the mosque is found 
 frequently inferior to the minaret; the mud huts with thatched 
 roofs are but a few feet high, and streets being practically un- 
 known, the enchantment dissolves. 
 
 A marked change in the scenery took place as the vessel 
 approached Gebel et Tayr. These precipitous cliffs rise 
 nearly perpendicular from the river to the height of nearly a 
 thousand feet. Sailing vessels need to be extremely careful 
 in passing, as extraordinary gusts of wind arise, and in the 
 water near the base we saw one or two w^recks of fishing 
 smacks, and one of a dahabeah. There is a Coptic convent 
 upon the summit, and in former times the monks would come 
 down the face of the rocks to the river, appearing to travelers 
 like insects, and then, plunging into the river, would swim off 
 to the boats to beg. Ashamed of the scandals to which this 
 gave rise, the Patriarch forbade it. Gebel et Tayr is the 
 " Mountain of the Bird," and all the birds of the country are 
 said to assemble upon it once a year. They select one of their 
 number to stay until the next year. This done they fly away 
 to the interior of Africa, coming back at the end of the year 
 to release the prisoner and substitute another. What the 
 object is, the legend does not explain; probably it originated 
 from the fact that numbers of birds appear there, and when 
 they depart one or two stay behind ! 
 
 As we were constantly moving southward, by the sixteenth 
 of February the heat was as great as it ever is in the United 
 States at any season of the year. In the shade, however, the 
 temperature was tolerable. We caught glimpses of disman- 
 tled forts, many sugar plantations on the east side, and in the 
 mountains rocks and grottoes used as tombs. Midwav 
 between the villages of Sooadee and Kom-Ahmar is a cemetery 
 to which solemn funeral visits lasting seven days are paid 
 three times a year. The ancient Egyptians usually selected 
 cemeteries on the opposite side of the river from the place of 
 
252 Travels in Three Cuxtinents. 
 
 their abode and carried over the bodies in ferryboats, the 
 women wailing. As we passed this point 1 read an interesting 
 fact. It was the old Egyptian custom of ferrying over the 
 dead that gave rise to the fable of Charon and the River Styx. 
 The authority for this' statement is Diodorus, who traces the 
 fable distinctly and consistently from the funeral ceremonies 
 of Egypt. 
 
 When Beni-Hassan was reached, we landed to visit the 
 tombs. The tombs of Beni-Hassan, architecturally and picto- 
 rially, are as highly esteemed by Egyptologists as any to 
 be found elsewhere in Egypt. They are believed to date from 
 3000 B. C. The city for which this mountain once served as 
 a burial place cannot be identified; not even its name is 
 known, nor its site authenticated; but the tombs themselves 
 show that the dead buried in them were public functionaries in 
 that city. They are constructed on the same principle as 
 those in the Pyramids and at Sakkara — the accessible chamber, 
 the hidden well, the funeral vault containing the sarcophagus, 
 and the mummy at the bottom of the well. The paintings 
 give details of the history and events of the life of the deceased. 
 No representations w^hatever of the Deity appear. Some are 
 inferior, but when the last two were reached even the stolid 
 spectators were interested. The caves are ornamented with 
 colored figures; those of the north stained red to resemble 
 granite. The fissures were filled with mortar to make the 
 surface smooth, and overlaid with a thin coating of lime. 
 Most noted of the northern grottoes is the tomb of Ameni- 
 Amenemha, Governor of the Province of Sah, who was also a 
 general of infantry, and led campaigns against the Ethiopian 
 and other peoples. 
 
 The paintings represent various trades; manufacture of 
 linen cloth, farming and hunting, wrestling, dancing, book- 
 keeping. The whipping of servants and the punishment of 
 subjects are illustrated; fishermen dragging nets to the shore; 
 geese and wild fowl being snared, and women playing on 
 harps. Portraits of Ameni and his two wives are outlined. 
 
 The next tomb is that of Knumhopt, grandson of Ameni. 
 He is represented standing amid his favorite dogs, while 
 toward him advances a procession which was for a long time 
 
H 
 o 
 
 cr 
 
 DO 
 
 i 
 
 3 
 
 b^ 
 
 f 
 
 Iw 
 
 (» • 
 
 t^ii. 
 
The Tomi; of Tih. 255 
 
 supposed to represent the arrival of Joseph's brethren in Egypt. 
 The first figure is a scribe who presents an account of the arrival 
 of the strangers; in the next another Egyptian ushers them 
 into his presence, bearing gifts. The men have aquiline 
 noses and black beards, and wear sandals; the women have 
 boots reaching to the ankle. This is the most ancient known 
 example of those immigrations of an Asiatic race " which 
 later on played so important a part in the aft'airs of Egypt." 
 The Jews in subsequent ages were attracted by the fertility of 
 the country; but that these were not Joseph's brethren is 
 proved by the fact that the tombs were excavated several cen- 
 turies before his time, and that the name and the number of 
 the people written over the tombs is inconsistent with the Bib- 
 lical accoiuit. 
 
256 Travkls IX Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 A Diversified Journey. 
 
 Village of Beni-Hassan — Methods Used by Beggars — Sugar Factory — Dom 
 Palms — Asyoot — Oriental Market Scenes. 
 
 On the way to and from the tombs we passed the village of 
 Beni-Hassan, notorious for ferocity, filth, and thieving pro- 
 pensities. We saw many of the inhabitants, a few who looked 
 savage, others resembling the people along the Nile generally. 
 The children are like the majority of the Egyptian children, 
 sweet-tempered and vivacious. They followed us, crying, ' 'Back- 
 sheesh^ backsheesh." Those who were disappointed would 
 sometimes cry, but no such persuaders exist in the world as the 
 Egvptian girls. They bow and smile, and use winning and 
 beautiful gestures. Zincke says that an Arab girl to whom he 
 had refused to give suddenly sprang forward and threw her- 
 self on the ground exactly in the donkey's path, and became 
 violently convulsed with a storm of uncontrollable agony. In 
 her convulsions she shrieked and threw dust on her head. He 
 rode on, taking no notice of her. She reenacted the scene, 
 but finding that he was not moved "with nature's mother wit 
 and arts well known before," for the remainder of the way 
 she ran along, still extending her hand, but now all winsome 
 smiles. 
 
 One boy that we saw was so nearly naked that it would 
 hardly be an exaggeration to say that he was. He came 
 toward us carrying a big stone with which he beat upon his 
 chest, and with an agonized expression held out his hand for 
 backsheesh. We declined. He struck himself again. We 
 shouted, "Go away." He drew back the stone as if he 
 intended to throw it at us. We smiled, he laughed, and the 
 crowd shouted. 
 
 At the ship we witnessed a disgraceful scene. A crowd of 
 more than one hundred men, women, and children, from 
 sevent3^-five years of age to five, the majority being from 
 
A Diversified Journey. 257 
 
 fifteen to thirty, some entirelj^ naked, and others holding up 
 what little clothes they had to catch the backsheesh^ oranges, 
 and other fruits, screaming like wild animals, and throwing 
 every possible expression into their faces. As wildly absorbed 
 as though drunk or insane, they scrambled, fought, and 
 plunged into the water. Little girls were lifted by boys and 
 pushed farther toward the steamer, and when the money was 
 thrown to them older boys would leap upon them and push 
 them down into the water. There must have been a score of 
 fights, and more than ten score of blows struck during the 
 scrimmage. 
 
 When the excitement was highest the Sheik, with his long, 
 black robe and turban, appeared with a club in his hand, and 
 went among the crowd, beating them terrificallv. A guard 
 also beat them over the head and shoulders with a koorbash, a 
 whip of hippopotamus hide. This was genuine beating, for 
 the children ran away screaming, and the resounding whack 
 of the club and the whip could be heard. Several ladies re- 
 treated, but two American girls said, " It was the custom of 
 the country, and they were there to see it." Yet the moment 
 the Sheik's back was turned the crowd turned about, and the 
 yell began. While the Sheik remained they were fighting 
 among themselves, but did not resist him; though we saw two 
 or three appearing to do so. At the close the Sheik himself, 
 though not mingling with the crowd, stood at one side bowing 
 and stretching forth his hand for backsheesh. 
 
 Soon after the steamer moved off we observed that the river 
 left the mountains and made a bend toward the west, and in 
 a little while we stopped at Roda, where is one of the largest 
 sugar factories on the Xile. We explored it under the guid- 
 ance of Abraham and a government officer. It is owned 
 and managed by the Khedive, is lighted by gas, and 
 employs two thousand persons. The machinery, made in 
 France, is elaborate and costly. The workmen were almost 
 naked, and hundreds were lying asleep with scarcely any 
 clothes on, as black as the floor on which they slept, hav- 
 ing nowhere else to go. They packed themselves together 
 until the length of the side of a room was taken up; then 
 another row was started, the heads of the second row being at 
 
25S Travfls IX Three Continents. 
 
 the feet of the first; and so on until the room was filled, leav- 
 ing only a space about a foot and a half wide for a walk. 
 Their wages are exceedingl}' small. 
 
 In former times the Khedive raised all the cane for the 
 factory, but on account of the quantities eaten by the natives 
 and the workrnen, found that he was losing money. Now 
 the men raise the cane, which the Khedive buys at prac- 
 tically his own price. It is peculiarly sweet and pleasant to 
 the taste. We observed each process; first the crushing of 
 the cane, then the passing of the sap through sieves to clear 
 it from impurity, then into boilers, then into clarifying and 
 cooling vats until it was brought out into different qualities of 
 sugar. The superintendent of each department conducted 
 us through it. Some could speak English, and where they 
 could not our dragoman interpreted. On reaching one room 
 the ladies of the party were shocked at seeing an almost 
 naked workman in one of the bins perspiring profusely, the 
 perspiration mingling with the sugar. "■ My! " said one of the 
 ladies, "I would never want to eat t^iat sugar! " But it was 
 thrown by him into a " whizzer," and when the machinery 
 stopped, and the sugar had been shoveled into a box, the 
 superintendent took up some, and the identical ladies who 
 had seen the process pressed forward to taste it. A sage 
 commented thus: "After all, do not the fattest cooks knead 
 the best bread? And in many European bakeries men tramp 
 barefooted up and down the troughs as an expeditious mode 
 of kneading." Having gone through sugar factories in the 
 South, and canning establishments in the North, such an inci- 
 dent as this had no effect upon my nerves, and I enjoyed eating 
 the sugar more than I would highly colored confectionery. 
 
 There was nothing monotonous in the scenery of the Xile. 
 Charles Dudley Warner says truly: "The scenes are never 
 twice alike. The combinations vary, the desert comes near 
 and recedes, the mountains advance in bold precipices, or fall 
 away." The living tableaux furnish great variety. We were 
 never out of sight of boats, some handsome and beautifully 
 painted, others short and dirty, and upon their decks men, 
 women, and children, "clothed in all the hues of heaven and 
 the rags of earth." 
 
o 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 > 
 ir. 
 "-< 
 
 O 
 O 
 
A Diversified Journey. 261 
 
 We caught a glimpse of the first dom palms we had seen, after 
 passing the ruins of Hermopolis. They differ from ordinary 
 palms in the fact that the lower part of the stem, which is 
 single, divides into two branches, and these again into two. 
 The top is covered with large, fan-shaped leaves, under which 
 the fruit grows. When ripe it resembles gingerbread in 
 taste, and is eaten by the natives. The nut that grows in the 
 center is so hard that the carpenters of Egypt long used it for 
 the socket of their drills. Before it is fully ripe it resembles 
 horn, but the inhabitants of Ethiopia, who utilize everything, 
 are said to eat it. The bluffs, called Gebel-Aboofayda 
 twenty-five or thirty miles farther up the river, extend along 
 the east bank about ten miles. They are precipitous, and 
 cause sudden gusts by their obstruction of atmospheric cur- 
 rents. Here many birds and wild ducks sailed out from caves 
 in the rocks. On the top of those rocks are pits containing 
 thousands of crocodile mummies. 
 
 At length Asyoot, beautiful for situation, appeared on the 
 west bank of the river. It is the capital of the province of 
 Asyoot, two hundred and forty-seven and a half miles from 
 Cairo by water, and a few miles less by rail. Its population 
 is thirty-two thousand. The course of the river for ten or 
 twelve miles, with its sharp turns or angles, causes the city to 
 appear first on one side and then on the other. The Libyan 
 mountains, a few miles behind it, glow in the sunlight, while 
 many river views and bits of water, appearing like small 
 lakes or artificial canals, beautify the foreground. This city 
 is the capital of Upper Egypt. Its name is a great stumbling- 
 block to travelers. It is written Asioot, Asyoot, x\siut, Ssout, 
 Sioout, Osyoot, Osioot, O'Sioot, Siiit, Sioot, O'Siout, Si-66t, 
 Siout, Syouth, and so on indefinitely. 
 
 Fifteen minarets could be counted projecting above the 
 groves of palm and acacia. An embankment, ornamented 
 with trees, extends to the town, which is entered through an 
 old gateway and courtyard, forming part of the governor's 
 palace. At Asyoot the market presented the most oriental 
 view of such a scene obtained during all our African journeys. 
 Men, women, children, and animals were crowded in seem- 
 ingly inextricable confusion. The people looked happy, though 
 
■zb2 Travels in Three Contixents. 
 
 the)^ were so jammed that there was scarce room for our little 
 donkej's to go through, such was the mass of camels, donkeys, 
 and sacred cows, which, like many 9ther alleged sacred things, 
 are common and even unclean when visited in the place of 
 their nativity. With the braying asses, growling camels, 
 bawling cows, cackling fowls, bellowing buffalos, vociferation 
 of buyers and sellers, and yells of water carriers, it was a 
 veritable Babel. 
 
ASYOOT TO THE TeMPLE OF DeXDEKAH. 263 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 Asyoot to the Temple of Denderah. 
 
 Bazaars and INIarket Place — Starting Point of English Expedition to the 
 Soudan — Ancient Lycopolis — Evidences of Roman Occupation — Mission of 
 United Presbyterian Church — Ophthalmia Prevalent in Egypt — Scenes at 
 Farshoot and Keneh — The Temple of Denderah. 
 
 The bazaars are superior to most outside of Cairo. The 
 articles sold are brought from Cairo and all parts of Egypt, 
 Arabia, Nubia, and Abyssinia. In former times caravans 
 arrived from the far South bearing tropical productions and 
 manufactures of the equatorial regions; and an extensive busi- 
 ness was done with the Soudan, which for the most part has 
 been destroyed by the wars of the Mahdi and his successors. 
 The red and black pottery of Asyoot is of wide celebrity. In, 
 the market place a multitude of jars of the inferior sort was 
 offered for sale, and in the bazaars the finest vrork. The 
 caravans from Darfoor formerly brought cinnamon, gum 
 arable, tusks, and ostrich feathers. We saw a small caravan. 
 The acacia trees furnish the true gum arable, which slowly 
 exudes through the bark. 
 
 The city was practically the starting point of the English 
 expedition to the Soudan in 1884. Stores for the army were 
 brought by railway, and conveyed to the Second Cataract by 
 steam and sail. Eight hundred rowboats, which took the 
 English troops over the difficult pass of the river south of 
 Wady Halfah, were placed in the Nile at this point. 
 
 Here stood the ancient Lycopolis, the Cit}' of Wolves. 
 The wolf was counted sacred by the people, and these animals 
 were numerous in the neighborhood. In the caves and the 
 recesses of the rocks in the Libyan mountains wolf mummies 
 can still be found. We came upon several which at the time 
 we supposed to be dogs. Mummy jackals also are there; 
 visitors to the British Museum can see the best preserved 
 specimens. Our ride to the tombs and the grottoes abun- 
 
264 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 dantly repaid us. W'e ascended the spurs of the Libyan 
 mountains and saw catacombs with vaulted ceilings ele- 
 gantly sculptured, which a critic says might be taken for 
 Greek patterns if one did not know that the ceiling is older 
 than Greek art. 
 
 Evidences of Roman occupation remain. During the earlier 
 Christian ages these tombs were occupied by Christians, some 
 of whom fled from persecution, and others resorted thither to 
 lead lives of monkish solitude. When Theodosius the Chris- 
 tian was desirous to discover the will of God he could not, after 
 the manner of his pagan ancestors, consult the oracle at 
 Delphi, but heard of a monk in Egypt supposed to have the 
 gift of miracles and the power of reading the future. Accord- 
 ing to tradition, he sent Eutropius from Constantinople to 
 Alexandria, whence he ascended the Nile to Lycopolis. Here 
 a holy monk, named John, dwelt in the side of the mountain, 
 in a cell where he lived fifty years " without opening his door, 
 without seeing the face of a woman, and without tasting any 
 food that had been prepared by fire or any human art." He 
 spent five days in prayer and meditation; on Saturdays and 
 Sundays he opened a window and gave audience to the sup- 
 pliants who came from all parts of the Christian world. He 
 gave Theodosius a favorable answer which is said to have been 
 fulfilled. 
 
 I visited an institution not mentioned by Charles Dudley 
 ^\'arner or referred to by Miss Edwards, but which is worthy 
 of the attention of any who propose to describe a country crs 
 it is — the Mission of the United Presbyterian Church of North 
 America. The college buildings are commodious, eligibly 
 situated, a little out of town, on a broad lawn surrounded by 
 gardens. Here more than four hundred students are annually 
 instructed. They are mostly Copts, though a considerable 
 number of Mohammedans are among them. 
 
 Most of the officers were absent attending the annual meet- 
 ing of the Mission, but we were courteously received. This 
 college has by genuine merit secured the high approbation of 
 all who know anything of its work. 
 
 Ophthalmia prevails in Egypt, the majority of the people 
 being more or less affected by it. The number of one-eyed 
 
ASYOOT TO THE TeMPLE OF DeXDERAH. 265 
 
 persons and of those with acutely diseased eyes is so great 
 that Miss Edwards affirms that as many as one in twenty of 
 the persons in certain districts are blind or partly so, and that 
 she saw so many children of four or five years old with the 
 surface of one or both eyes eaten away that she had not been 
 many weeks on the Nile before she began to avoid syste- 
 matic exploring of native towns whenever it was practicable to 
 do so. 
 
 We had an instructive but painful opportunity of seeing how 
 prevalent this disease is. Professor Hirschberg, an oculist of 
 Berlin, called some of the students into a room and made an 
 examination of their e3'es as a part of his study of the subject 
 of ophthalmia. Xot one of the fifteen had a thoroughly sound 
 eye; some were blind in one eye, two were hopelessly diseased, 
 and the remainder in various degrees of imperfection, several 
 of whom, without attention, would in his opinion soon become 
 totally blind. Everything about the college was scrupulously 
 clean and neat. We were informed, soon after arriving, that 
 Dr. Isaac G. Bliss, for nearly forty years missionary of the 
 American Board, and at the head of the Bible House in Constan- 
 tinople, w'ho, accompanied by his wife, was making a journey 
 through Egypt for his health, had been taken ill, and was 
 supposed to be dying. The young gentleman who traveled 
 with me was a fellow-student of a son of Dr. Bliss in Amherst 
 College, and bore from the young man to his father a letter 
 of introduction, which he intended to present in Constanti- 
 nople. Their forebodings were fulfilled by the event, for Dr. 
 Bliss died that da}^ and holy men bore him to his burial place, 
 by the side of Dr. Hogge, the founder of the Mission, in a 
 cemetery just outside the city, given by a wealthy Mohamme- 
 dan who had been converted to Christianity. 
 
 When we left Asyoot the scenery began to take on a trop- 
 ical aspect. The heat w'as intense; the air, however, as dry 
 as the broiling sun and the hot sands of the desert could make 
 it. The heav)^ evaporation from the Nile did not appear to 
 moisten it eighteen inches from the water. In the morning 
 it was impossible to sit upon the eastern side of the boat, or 
 on the western side in the afternoon. The absence of humid- 
 ity made the temperature endurable. 
 
266 TrW-KLS IX 'I'lIREE CONTINENTS. 
 
 in the vicinity of Farshuot we caught glimpses of flocks of 
 sheep guarded by the Howara dogs, famous from ancient 
 times — large, fierce-looking, with rough black coats, and a 
 courage unsurpassed by any breed of dogs in the world. 
 Crroves of palms and acacia trees lined the banks. 
 
 At Keneh we made the usual visits to the bazaars, tasted 
 the excellent dates, and saw the manufactories of porous 
 water jars and bottles. 
 
 There and elsewhere we were astonished to see the enor- 
 mous weight which in water jars the women would bear on 
 their heads. Xo one who sees an. Egyptian woman carry 
 these can fail to recognize the connection between walking 
 with a weight upon the head and the most graceful carriage. 
 Egyptian women have a bearing which the women of other 
 countries might covet. A friend informed me that he had 
 seen women of ordinary size who could uplift water jars weigh- 
 ing one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and walk a long dis- 
 tance with them without the slightest difficulty. 
 
 The Temple of Denderah is in an excellent state of preserva- 
 tion; much of it hardly deserves to be called a ruin. Here, for 
 the first time, an unpleasant peculiarity of the tour appeared. 
 Our dragoman was not an archteologist or an Egyptologist, but 
 he knew thoroughly what he had been taught, could recite it dis- 
 tinctly, and his interlocutory remarks were amusing. Two pas- 
 sengers, one an Englishman and the other a German, had formed 
 their ideas from books, and were continually contradicting and 
 puzzling the conductor. The majority knew only what they had 
 read in a general way, and wished to have Abraham unfold his 
 story. They were there to be led, not to make reputations 
 as antiquarians, or to contend with Wilkinson, Mariette, Lep- 
 sius, and other authorities. These men, however, so contra- 
 dicted him, for a considerable part of the time, that he did not 
 know what to say, and the tourists generally were in confusion. 
 At the end it became necessary to administer heroic treatment 
 to these untimely combatants; their pertinacity was frowned 
 upon luitil it gradually gave way to more decorous conduct, 
 which desirable consummation was hastened by several egre- 
 gious blunders into which they fell. 
 
 Mariette gives, in five lines, the history of the Temple of 
 
ASYOOT TO THE TeMPLE OF DeNDERAH. 267 
 
 Denderah: "Its foundations were laid under Ptolemy the 
 nth, otherwise Theodosius; though some authorities would 
 make it Ptolemy the loth. Its construction was finished un- 
 der Tiberius and its decoration under Nero. Jesus Christ was 
 living at Jerusalem when this temple was being completed." 
 
 No analogy can be drawm between the temple and any 
 known modern church. None except the king and priests 
 were ever allowed to enter. \Vithin, in total darkness, the 
 fetes were celebrated and processions organized. The dark- 
 ness served the purpose of preserving the precious objects, 
 the sacred vestments, from ravages of insects and from dust 
 and sun. The outline drawings and the coloring in the 
 Temple of Denderah are unsurpassed. Forty-two names of 
 Osiris are found on the fortj'-two gnomes on the ceiling. 
 Hathor, worshiped there, is the pupil of the sun's eye, and 
 therefore the Egyptians made her the Goddess of Beauty, for 
 they put beauty chiefly in the eyes. She has many beautiful 
 titles; and personifies the harmony of the world. One of her 
 names is Sothis, the equivalent of Sirius. She is therefore the 
 goddess who governs the periodical return of the year, an- 
 nounces the rising of the river, appears at the eastern horizon, 
 and foretells the renewal of nature. 
 
268 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTHR XXXIV. 
 
 Denderah and Nile Experiences. 
 
 Forgotten Credentials — Cliapel of Isis — Stories of the Tentyrites — Inhabit- 
 ants of Orubos — The Crocodile — The Shadoof and Sakeeyah — Silence in 
 Egypt. 
 
 We -were obliged to purchase a certificate that ^ve had paid 
 an English pound toward the preservation of the remains in 
 Egypt. This document, beautifully written, was placed in 
 our hands, and we were required to show it when called for. 
 Quite a number of tourists who had duly purchased had left 
 the credentials on the ship. Our party, with prudence, were 
 provided, but we were not disposed to enter until all could be 
 admitted. When Abraham arrived, he towered over the un- 
 fortunate guard with such vigorous ostentation that he suc- 
 ceeded in securing the admission of the delinquents, on pledg- 
 ing his honor that the assistant dragoman should immediately 
 proceed to the ship and procure the credentials. The guard, 
 however, was not entirely subdued. He felt that he must 
 magnify his office, and made us as uncomfortable as possible. 
 
 We ascended the broad stone terraces which possess an 
 aspect of dignity and grandeur seldom surpassed. On one 
 gateway is a representation of the sun with its sacred emblem, 
 the hawk, supported by two gods. In the chapel of Isis we 
 saw the figured cow before which the Sepoys prostrated them- 
 selves when the English Indian army landed in Egypt in iSoo. 
 Abraham dwelt upon this, and avowed the opinion that the 
 religions were identical; but it has been well said that the ac- 
 cidental worship of the same animal in Egypt and India is not 
 sufficient to prove any direct connection between the two re- 
 ligions. 
 
 I went as deeply into these mysteries as time, reflection, 
 books, and conversation would allow, but they are too com- 
 plex to retain, unless one gives himself to a special and con- 
 tinuous study of them. 
 
Denderah and Nile Experiences. 
 
 269 
 
 On the walls are the names of Augustus and of his four suc- 
 cessors in the empire, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and Nero. 
 But on an older part 
 of the structure is the 
 name of the Egyptian 
 son of the greatest of 
 the Caisars, together 
 with his mother's, the 
 Egyptian enchantress, 
 Cleopatra. Its several 
 portraits of Cleopatra 
 attracted more atten- 
 tion. 
 
 To the southeast of 
 Denderah are grottoes 
 and numerous tombs. 
 Scattered over the des- 
 ert are stones that were 
 made round by rolling. 
 They are of granite 
 and p o r p h y r y, and 
 show traces of an an- 
 cient rush of waters. 
 
 Of the Tentyrites, 
 who from the earli- 
 est times dwelt here- 
 abouts, extraordinary 
 Stories are told. Pliny's 
 Natu7-al Historv con- 
 tains several which de- 
 lighted my childhood, 
 illustrating realistic- 
 ally their marvelous 
 power over the croco- 
 dile. The philosopher 
 Seneca did not think 
 it beneath him to attempt to explain their control over them. 
 He accounted for it by the contempt and consciousness of 
 superiority they felt in attacking their enemy, and adds that 
 lo 
 
 Cleopatra — Temple of Denderah. 
 
270 Travels in Three Coxtixexts. 
 
 those of them who were deficient in presence of mind were 
 frequently killed. On this an English writer, reasoning, says: 
 "The crocodile is in fact a timid animal. Usually it flies at 
 the approach of man, and only ventures to attack its prey on 
 a sudden." He calls attention to the fact that we seldom or 
 never hear of persons devoured by it, unless they are standing 
 in shallow water on the sloping shore of a river, whereby the 
 immense power of its tail is able to throw down and overcome 
 the strongest man, who, being carried immediately to the bot- 
 tom of the river, has neither the time nor the means to resist. 
 
 Abraham related an amazing story of a man who was 
 knocked senseless in this way, and the crocodile drew him 
 under the water; but when it was supposed that he was prob- 
 ably bisected he reappeared and floated near the shore, and 
 on being restored to consciousness said he drew his knife and 
 stabbed the crocodile. This could not be believed; but a few 
 days later the body of the crocodile floated, and was found to 
 have a stab exactly as the man had stated. 
 
 While the Tentyrites hated the crocodile, their neighbors, 
 the inhabitants of Ombos, worshiped it, and resented, with all 
 the rage of a sectarian feud, the killing and eating of "the 
 godlike animal." The reason for worshiping the crocodile is 
 supposed to be that, as it came in with the Nile, it became the 
 symbol of the life-giving water; but in other departments, 
 which had too much water, it was not the crocodile, but the 
 ic/i/icui/ioi}, the enemy of the crocodile, which was worshiped. 
 The ichneumon is a curious animal the size of an ordinary cat. 
 Among foreigners it goes by the name of "Pharaoh's Cat." 
 It lives on rats and mice, birds and reptiles, is occasionally 
 tamed, and serves the purpose of a cat. It is particularly fond 
 of eggs, and as the crocodile buries its eggs in a thin covering 
 of sand on the river banks, and the ichneumon destrovs them, 
 the ancient Egyptians regarded it as sacred, and buried it in 
 "holy repositories! " 
 
 The crocodile is as valuable in the water as the hyena and 
 vulture upon the land. It lives entirely on animal food, and 
 prefers tainted to fresh meat; therefore, naturalists say that 
 it is of great service in devouring dead animals that would 
 otherwise pollute the waters and the surrounding atmosphere. 
 

 i A 
 
 ■I III .11 II wpiim 
 
 O 
 O 
 
Denderah and Nile Experiences. 273- 
 
 Having seen both alligators and crocodiles in Florida and 
 Louisiana, I hoped to see a crocodile on the Nile, but one 
 might spend years there and not find one below the First Cat- 
 aract. Only a few years ago they were numerous. 
 
 Charles Dudley Warner saw one. Lord Ducie in 1872 
 killed a full-grown specimen fourteen feet long, recovered the 
 carcass, and in its stomach found evidence that it was a child 
 eater. This was about one hundred and seventy miles north 
 of the First Cataract, and not far from this point. 
 
 Mariette explains that the reason we do not find them now is 
 because the crocodile is driven farther and farther south by 
 the firearms of travelers and the constant passing of steamers. 
 Similar treatment is driving out the alligators in the Southern 
 States. 
 
 A picturesque and never monotonous spectacle to the Nile 
 traveler is the working of the various machines employed to 
 irrigate the land during the time of low water. The principal 
 is the shadoof. This machine is the oldest with which the 
 race is historically acquainted, and it is maintained that in no 
 invention in modern times is the result so great in proportion 
 to the degree of power employed. The best and briefest de- 
 scription that we have seen represents it as consisting of two 
 posts, about five feet in height and three apart, connected 
 at the top by a horizontal bar; across this is slung the branch 
 of a tree, having at one end a weight composed of mud, and 
 at the other, suspended by two palm sticks, a bucket made of 
 basket work, matting, or a hoop with woolen stuff or leather. 
 This is worked by one man. Goatskin buckets are often 
 used. The man who operates it stands on the edge of the 
 river; before him is a hole full of water fed from the stream. 
 He takes hold of the cord by which the empty bucket is sus- 
 pended, and, bending down, by the weight of his shoulders 
 dips it in the water; he then rises, with his hands still on the 
 cord; this gives the bucketful of water an upward movement, 
 and the weight strung on the other end of the pole presses 
 downward and it is lifted over to a trough, into which, as it 
 tilts, the water is poured. 
 
 One man can run this machine and lift water from six to 
 eight feet. The men keep on all day, gracefully bowing and 
 
274 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 rising. Their feet are in tlie water and their heads in the sun; 
 they wear Uttle clothing — a flesh-colored cloth aruuntl tiie 
 loins, and a tight-fitting skullcap. As the river sinks ii is 
 necessary to have a series of s/uu/oo/s, and in the course of 
 our journey we often saw two or three, and sometimes five, 
 one above the other, in this case the one nearest the river 
 throws the water up into a hole; the second takes it from that 
 to a rude reservoir; the third into still another; and so on 
 until the last, from which it is emptied into the trough. 
 
 The other machine is the sakceyc/i. This is a wheel, some- 
 times as much as twenty-five feet in diameter. Around its 
 circumference earthen pots are tied by cords. There is 
 another small w^heel with cogs fixed to the axis, and a large 
 horizontal cogged wheel. This is turned by one or two buf- 
 faloes, cows, or other animals, sets the other two wheels in 
 motion, and raises the water in the pots. This is frequently 
 used for gardens along the shore. Some of the water wheels 
 in use in the Fayoum admit of being turned by the weight of 
 the water. The sakeeyeh much resembles the chain pump, 
 once common in the United States. 
 
 Travelers are in the habit of complaining of the frightful 
 noise made by these machines, which are never r;reased, and 
 produce now a frightful groan, then a growl resembling that 
 of a cam.el; sometimes a shrill, prolonged shriek, like that of 
 a hound chained in a kennel in the corner of a barn; but 
 I never found it wearisome, and could readily understand that 
 it was music in the ears of the ^oox fellahs who operate the 
 machines. 
 
 Egypt is the quietest country in the world; when the wind 
 does not blow the silence is appalling. There are few trees; 
 few vehicles traveling over the road to make a noise; and if 
 there were, their passage over the soft sand would be noise- 
 less. A healthy nervous system requires some noise the greater 
 part of the time; and silent work, a great authority declares, 
 is far more taxing than that which is accompanied by a mod- 
 erate amount of racket. 
 
Thebes. 275 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 Thebes. 
 
 Approaching Thebes — Situation — History — Village of Luxor — Ruins and Vil- 
 lage Life Contrasted — " Father Abraham's " Knowledge of Antiquities — 
 " Antiquity Smith " — Avenue of Sphinxes — Karnak — Description of Great 
 Temple — Weird Scene. 
 
 As we sailed from Denderah, enthusiastic in its praises, an 
 experienced traveler, pointing southward, said with a signifi- 
 cant smile, " Wait I " 
 
 Long before reaching renowned Thebes, majestic ruins, ex- 
 tending for miles in every direction, and the lofty Libyan and 
 more distant Arabian mountains came into sight. We gazed 
 upon them with a curiosity which both stimulated and 
 subdued, aware that here the grandest of the world's ruins 
 culminate in a sublimity before which warriors, sages, phi- 
 losophers, historians, and travelers of every nation reverently ■ 
 bow, rising to ask who were those mighty beings, what was the 
 purpose of their colossal creations, how were they achieved, 
 and what has caused such a race to disappear from the face 
 of the earth? 
 
 Thebes, whose ruins fascinate, appall, stun, defying the im- 
 agination, confounding the reason, justifies the statement of 
 Belzoni, that it appeared to him "like entering a city of the 
 giants, who after a long contest had all been destroyed, leav- 
 ing their vast temples as the only proofs of their existence." 
 To form any idea of the city the first fact to fix in the mind is 
 that Thebes extended many miles on both banks of the river 
 Nile, just as St. Petersburg occupies both sides of the Neva, 
 London of the Thames, Paris of the Seine, Florence of the 
 Arno, and Philadelphia of the Schuylkill. The Nile is much 
 wider than the Thames, Seine, or Arno, and even wider than 
 the Neva. Dean Stanley says: "Alone of the cities of Egypt 
 the situation of Thebes is as beautiful by nature as by art." 
 
 The Arabian and Libyan mountains, which have followed the 
 
276 Travkls in Three Contixents. 
 
 river like monotonous walls on either side, always near them 
 at varying distances,, now form a circle whose diameter is so 
 great as to produce a wide plain which, well inundated and 
 irrigated at the season of the year when we were there, was 
 green and beautiful. At its northern extremity the Lib- 
 yan mountains become elevated and massive, the Arabian 
 being ten or twelve miles distant, and over all this vast plain 
 spread the great city of Thebes. Mariette says that Thebes 
 makes her first appearance in history with the kings of the 
 eleventh dynasty, which he puts 3,064 years before the birth of 
 Christ. Brugsch assigns it to 2500 B. C. , while Wilkinson 
 would make it only 1784 B. C. 
 
 Not until the eighteenth dynasty does the real glory of 
 Thebes begin. Amenophis I extended the boundaries of 
 Egypt. Thothmes I carried them into Syria, and introduced 
 the horse into Egypt. In the reign of Thothmes II Egypt 
 "placed its frontier where it pleased," and Amenophis III 
 carried his arms far into the Soudan. The nineteenth dynasty 
 was also one of great glory. Sethi, or Meneptah I, erected 
 many magnificent monuments in Thebes, and his tomb is the 
 most remarkable of all identified there. In this dynasty ap- 
 peared Rameses II in a splendid reign of sixty-seven years. 
 He placed his name upon nearly every important monument in 
 Egypt, and the history of his career is most frequently found 
 in inscriptions and papyrus rolls. He erected many of the 
 edifices now most splendid ruins. In the tw'entieth dynasty is 
 enrolled Rameses III, "the last of the famous warrior kings of 
 Egypt." He established intercourse by land and sea with the 
 countries on the shores of the Indian Ocean. His successors 
 all bore the name of Rameses, but with that dynasty the glory 
 of Thebes begins visibly to decline. 
 
 Amenophis had built at Karnak a portion of a temple, now 
 destroyed, and his statue, of huge proportions, still adorns the 
 southwest front of the third entrance to the south. Thothmes I 
 began in front of the sanctuary the series of halls, pylons, and 
 obelisks. Under Thothmes III and Amenophis III Thebes 
 greatly increased in population and size, and Sethi I sum- 
 moned sculptors and engravers from all parts of Egypt to 
 carve his history upon the monuments of Thebes. He erected 
 
Thebes. 277 
 
 seventy-eight out of one hundred and thirty-four columns of 
 the great hall of columns at Karnak. Rameses II did but 
 little in Karnak. 
 
 At last, after various ravages, desecrations, and restorations, 
 Ptolemy Lathyrus laid siege to Thebes and sacked it, since 
 which it has had no place in history. Its downfall was com- 
 plete before the time of Christ, and " Strabo found nothing 
 remaining of Thebes but a collection of villages assembled 
 over its ruins." 
 
 Luxor is now a market town. Its temple is said by some 
 antiquarians to offer but slight interest to the visitor, but I 
 cannot agree with this disparaging view. The plan of the 
 temple is peculiar and pleasing in its very irregularity, which 
 is supposed to have originated from the fact that it rises ab- 
 ruptly from the edge of the river, and was constructed to 
 follow its windings. It is less striking than it would be if a 
 considerable part of the grand court had not been occupied by 
 an ugly mosque. 
 
 The village of Luxor is adjacent to the ruins of the temple, 
 many of the houses actually within. Two towers without their 
 cornices, and surrounded by debris, are commanding, and made 
 more so by the Colossus on each side of the central gateway. 
 One of the obelisks is of red granite, covered with hiero- 
 glyphics, cut in many instances two inches in depth. It is 
 about eighty-four feet high. Visitors to Paris have seen, 
 in the Place de la Concorde, its companion, which is seventy- 
 seven feet high. 
 
 The sitting statues of Rameses received but a glance as we 
 passed on to look at the battle scenes on the front of the two 
 towers. 
 
 The hall within was nearly two hundred feet by one hundred 
 and seventy, and the length of the colonnade and the next 
 court was one hundred and seventy feet. The inscriptions 
 depict chariots, kings' chariots being shaded by umbrellas, 
 horses, and spoils taken from enemies. 
 
 Few kings did anything for Luxor except to engrave their 
 names on parts of the wall that had been left blank by their 
 predecessors. Some restored a portion of the temple. The 
 contrast is complete between these ruins and the curious life 
 
27S Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 of the village of Luxor. On the edge were dogs, camels, 
 donkeys, geese, chickens, pigeons, turkeys, all making their 
 characteristic sounds; naked children, women working and 
 walking in lanes that run among the ruins; the human be- 
 ings as unconscious of the glory of their ancestors as the 
 brutes are of the signification of the hieroglyphics on the 
 temples. According to the law all excavations are forbidden 
 in Egypt, yet travelers constantly demand antiquities as sou- 
 venirs. Our companions purchased largely, though with the 
 exception of comparatively common remains there was little 
 reason to believe in the genuineness of any of the statu- 
 ettes, stelce (inscribed tablets of granite and other stone), and 
 scarabcei (sacred beetles). Some of the manufacturers can 
 imitate the genuine with such skill as occasionally to deceive 
 experienced antiquarians. Our dragoman dealt in antiquities, 
 and claimed the ability to detect the spurious. To test him, 
 a tourist secured one of the skillful imitators to manufacture a 
 statuette. This the traveler kept for twenty-four hours, and 
 then exhibited it to " Father Abraham," as our conductor was 
 familiarly called, asking him its age. He examined it, using 
 tests of his own, and answered that it was about one week 
 old. After this his credit rose greatly, and he had no difficulty 
 in selling whatever he had to offer. 
 
 I made inquiry for the famous " Antiquity Smith," who lived 
 twenty years an exile at Thebes, most of that time the only 
 foreign resident in the place. Charles Dudley Warner says 
 that he "looked like a superannuated agent of the Tract 
 Society, of the long, thin, shrewd, learned Yankee type." He 
 was born in Connecticut, reared in New Jersey, and lived for 
 seventeen years among the Arabs, and Mr. Warner justly says: 
 *' Few men have enjoyed his advantages for sharpening the 
 wits." But Mr. Smith had made a fortune and returned to 
 the United States, leaving the reputation of being sharper than 
 any Arab in Egypt, and also of being the best judge of antiq- 
 uities, able to buy them at the lowest and sell them at the 
 highest price. 
 
 Having finished the exploration of the Temple of Luxor, 
 we mounted our donkeys for the ride to Karnak, about two 
 and a half miles. The plain seemed wider than it was, because 
 
Thebes. 279 
 
 the Nile was not in sight. There were a few hills, and a large 
 part of the country was sterile. Clusters of dwarf palms and 
 many sycamores relieved the monotony. 
 
 In due time we reached the Avenue of the Sphinxes, about 
 a mile in length, named so because originally bordered with 
 Sphinxes, of which a number remain. Generally they have 
 the head of a woman on a lion's body, and between their fore- 
 feet is a statue of Amenophis III. 
 
 Farther on the Sphinxes have rams' heads, on which account 
 it is called the Avenue of the Crio-Sphinx. 
 
 In a straight line Karnak is said to be two miles from Luxor, 
 and, estimating the intervals between the Sphinxes destroyed 
 and those standing, it is concluded that there must have been 
 two hundred and fifty on each side of the road. Some Sphinxes 
 are ten feet in length. On reaching the Propylon, or grand 
 gateway, we saw at once why Karnak is described as the most 
 wonderful pile of ruins that can be imagined. The temple is 
 a monument of unparalleled grandeur, whose proportions and 
 bewildering mass quite overpower the imagination. On our 
 various visits we found, too, the truth of the saying, " That 
 one has never seen enough of Karnak, and the more often one 
 visits it the more stupendous it appears." 
 
 I have in memory a perfect picture of this vast pile. AVere 
 I an artist I could paint it, an engraver I could engrave 
 it; but it is impossible to portray it in words, for it can- 
 not be comprehended in one view. Unity of plan it never 
 had, and earthquakes and the devastations of war and the 
 slow disintegration of time have obscured its original out- 
 lines. 
 
 The view of the whole is grander than that of any of its 
 parts, though none of these are insignificant, and many are 
 colossal. The gateway is three hundred and seventy feet in 
 breadth; and one tower, which it is possible to ascend, one 
 hundred and forty feet in height, remains standing, and from 
 this a striking view of the whole can be taken. 
 
 The court has been well styled a perfect forest of magnificent 
 columns. The temple is not far from two miles in circumfer- 
 ence; its walls are twenty-five feet thick at the base, and eighty 
 feet high, and the columns just referred to are thirty-six feet 
 
2So 'I'kWKLS IX TlIRF.E CONTINENTS. 
 
 ill lircumference, and covered by liieroglyphics, with capitals 
 of dil'ferent patterns, richly painted. 
 
 There are eleven temples at Karnak. The Great Temple, 
 the work of many kings, is a considerable distance to the 
 north. All travelers have noticed that most of the temples 
 face different points of the compass. This temple looks 
 toward Luxor, because connected with it by the Avenue of 
 Sphinxes. 
 
 Here was an excellent opportunity for testing the keys 
 which antiquarians have devised to unlock these ancient mys- 
 teries. They endured the test as we stood for a long time de- 
 ciphering the historic inscriptions upon this wonderful portal 
 of Ptolemy. At last we entered the Great Temple. The 
 high Hypostyle Hall is the grandest single apartment and the 
 most spacious ever constructed by the Egyptians. A critic 
 says: " Figures do me no good; when you say that the hall is 
 two hundred and fifty feet square, I know nothing about it." 
 I know of no means, however, of giving the size of a ruin but 
 by figures; those who have trouble in conceiving the space 
 need only to ascertain the dimensions of the nearest church to 
 obtain a standard for comparison. This wondrous hall meas- 
 ures three hundred and thirty-four English feet by one hundred 
 and sixty-seven. It was originally covered, daylight being ad- 
 mitted only by grated windows. 
 
 The external south wall is covered by bas-reliefs of historic 
 significance. The principle is: "So many castellated car- 
 touches, so many localities conquered." A little farther along 
 is an entire poem composed in honor of Rameses H. On the 
 outer wall to the north is a series of pictures that contain the 
 history of the campaigns of Sethi I in western Asia. 
 
 Leaving the hall and passing between the towers, a list is 
 seen of the donations made by one king to the temple, includ- 
 ing a large number of precious stones and metals. 
 
 We went to the Hall of the Obelisks and the Fourteen Col- 
 umns. In the center the daughter of Thothmes I, who was re- 
 gent until her brothers succeeded, raised the two most gigantic 
 obelisks which exist; one lies on its side, the other (named 
 Hatasou) is upright. It is one hundred and eight feet and ten 
 inches high, while that which I saw at Heliopolis is sixty-six 
 
Thebes. 
 
 281 
 
 feet six inches. Tlie inscriptions record that the summit of 
 this obelislc was covered with pure gold, and that the whole 
 was gilded from top to bottom; it towers still amid those 
 
 trf^'^-'—TT-'^m 
 
 Temple of Karnak. 
 
 ruins like a giant. In our hands we carried the plans, tables, 
 interpretations; but our dragoman relieved us of the trouble of 
 identifying except in disputed cases. I was very much inter- 
 
2S2 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 ested in the descriptions most accurately rendered by the hier- 
 oglyphic names of the first of the many campaigns of Thothmes 
 111. It is in fact a synoptical table of the Promised Laiul 
 made two hundred and seventy years before the Exodus. The 
 limits are almost, though not precisely, the same as those as- 
 signed, in the tenth chapter of Genesis, to the land of Canaan. 
 
 The causes of the ruin of Karnak have been much dis- 
 cussed, and different hypotheses adopted. The terrific sieges 
 to which it was subjected (especially by Cambyses and the Per- 
 sians); the revenge of Ptolemy, who laid siege to Thebes for 
 seven months, and when it finally succumbed surrendered it 
 to rapine; and earthquakes account for much of it. But it is 
 agreed that the destruction of the temple is primarily the 
 effect of the faults of its construction and of its relation to the 
 Nile and the plain. The water of the Nile, saturated with 
 niter, finds its way to and eats the bases of the columns until, 
 as Mariette predicts, the time may be foreseen when with crash 
 after crash the columns of the magnificent Hypostyle Hall, 
 whose bases are already three quarters eaten through, will fall 
 as have fallen the columns in the great court. 
 
 In the Temple of Karnak was a tragic figure so strange and 
 weird, so horrible yet fascinating, as to surpass the wildest 
 fancies of Dumas or Eugene Sue. It thrilled, repelled, yet held 
 the gaze until nature, half-paralyzed by the spectacle, asserted 
 itself and compelled the removal of the object. A creature 
 with shaven head, in the form of a human being, paralyzed, 
 mute, naked, except for a rag tied around the loins, apparently 
 seventy years of age, perchance not more than fifty, perhaps 
 nearly one hundred, exactly the color of the ruined columns 
 and the doorway, crawled out from under the broken pillars 
 and huge monoliths, as a lizard might from a pile of stones. 
 A mumbling, inarticulate sound came from his lips; he moved 
 sideways and tried to rise, and held out his hands for alms; 
 hatless, he turned his eyeballs up toward the sun, and as the 
 yellow rays fell upon him and upon the pillar on which he 
 leaned it was impossible to distinguish any difference in shade. 
 His bronzed skin as much resembled the solid stone as green 
 insects resemble the maple leaf upon which they feed. Yet 
 this was human, and some of the Egyptian attendants seemed 
 
Thebes. 283 
 
 to stand in awe of him, and hesitated to drive him into the 
 obscurity whence he had emerged. When two endeavored 
 to remove him, he exerted what strength he had and broke 
 from them, falling upon the ground, and moving off with the 
 sinuous sideway motion with which he had approached; but 
 whenever he fell his hand was still stretched out to receive 
 alms. Nothing human have I ever seen in collections of de- 
 formities and idiot asylums so peculiar; nothing which so 
 appeared to efface humanity and transform man uito beast. 
 
2S4 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Temples and Tombs of Thebes, on the West Bank of 
 
 the Nile. 
 
 Temple of Koornah — Approacli to the Ranieseum — Sculptures and Statue of 
 Rameses — Ride through the Plains — Temple of Ptolemy Philopater — Bel- 
 zoni's Tomb. 
 
 Having completed our explorations of the ruins of Luxor 
 and Karnak we crossed the river and proceeded to the Tem- 
 ple of Koornah, or Goornah. This is the northernmost ruin 
 on the west bank. It was built by Sethi I, dedicated to the 
 memory of his father, Rameses I, and finished by Rameses 
 II. It is small compared with the others, and surrounded by 
 mounds and the ruins of Arab huts. The statue and shrine of 
 Amen-ra, the dedication to Rameses II, and the sculptures 
 were mstructive. 
 
 The ride to the remains of the Temple of Rameses II, usu- 
 ally designated the Ranieseum, was through cultivated lands, 
 passing many huts and several villages. Many children were 
 naked; one, about ten years of age, whose sole garment con- 
 sisted of a shoe string tied around the waist, reminded us of 
 a sarcasm upon the attire of certain ladies at the watering 
 places, said to wear only '"a sash and a smile." Adults of 
 both sexes could be seen from the path, whose raiment was 
 similar to that of our first parents before they resorted to fig 
 leaves. The approach to the Rameseum was majestic, the 
 mountains forming an imposing background, against which 
 "colossal caryatids and the majestic columns stand out in 
 golden relief." Rameses II must have been pleased with this 
 temple, for it was built by himself and in his own honor. 
 
 The sculptures are all historical; the scene of one of the 
 principal is in Syria, being at a point in the northwest part 
 of the wilderness of Zin not far from Kadesh, so often 
 spoken of in the Scriptures. Here a multitude had arisen 
 to repel the invasion of Rameses. The sculptures show 
 
Temples and To.mbs of Thebes. 287 
 
 that his escort fled, and represent Rameses as throwing liim- 
 self into the midst of the fight. He is shown, after the war, 
 seated on his throne in roj^al state, ofificers congratulating him; 
 but he rebukes them: "Not one of you behaved well in thus 
 deserting me." 
 
 In the Rameseum I tried to imagine the proportions of the 
 sublime statue of Rameses. The original statue was fifty-seven 
 feet and five inches in height. It was a monolith, and weighed 
 upward of one thousand one hundred and ninet)^-eight tons. 
 Of it, Stanley, in his Sinai atid Palestine, says: " Nothing that 
 now exists m the world can give any notion of what the effect 
 must have been when he was erect. Nero, towering above the 
 Colosseum, may have been something like it, but he was of 
 brass, and Rameses of solid granite." Rameses was conceived 
 as resting in awful majesty, "after the conquest of the whole 
 known world." When we consider that the Arabs scooped 
 millstones out of his face, some idea can be formed of the size 
 of the head, and of the hugeness of the hands resting upon 
 the "elephantine knees." This statue was brought without 
 railroads and without vessels all the way from Assouan. Truly 
 has it been said: "One does not know which to wonder at the 
 more — the patience and strength of those who brought it the 
 entire way from Assouan to serve as an ornament of the tem- 
 ple, or the strength and patience of those who overthrew the 
 monster and laid him low." I should have been glad to occupy 
 two or three days in examining the Temple of Rameses III. 
 It IS large, but not overwhelming; constructed on a simple but 
 beautiful plan; in style fascinating, but not gloomy, and the 
 pictures are easily understood. 
 
 Our ride through the plains was of ceaseless interest. In the 
 distance appeared the Nile, the temples of Luxor and Karnak, 
 the Arabian and Libyan mountains; also t\\Q. fellaheen at work 
 in the fields, who there appeared to the best advantage, "with 
 fine, oval faces; bright, deepset, black eyes; straight, thick 
 noses; large, well-formed mouths, full lips, beautiful teeth, 
 broad shoulders, and good-shaped limbs." The farther south 
 we went the more beautiful their complexion became. In the 
 north of Egypt, that is in the vicinity of Alexandria, it was 
 light and tawny; here it became a deep bronze. 
 
2SS Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 I confess that in this ride only occasionally were my 
 thoughts upon the present population of Egypt. The count- 
 less multitudes that marched over those plains; the army of 
 workmen employed in erecting those temples; the tremendous 
 battles in which Oreek, Roman, and savages from the south, 
 and Cambyses and his horde from Persia, successively strug- 
 gled; the appalling earthquakes which completed the devasta- 
 tion begun by man ; the ever-wonderful river, father of every 
 green thing visible; the vast encroaching desert, and the ab- 
 solutely cloudless sky, white and dazzling, Avith only the faint- 
 est tint of blue — these filled the eye and mind, and this was 
 no time to studv living men. 
 
 We explored an old cemetery, behind which is a small 
 temple erected to Ptolemy Philopater. The early Christians 
 inhabited it, and various inscriptions left by them, chiefly 
 Coptic, are found in the interior. Architects have been much 
 interested in the exposure, by the rents in the walls, of the 
 wooden dove-tailed cramps connecting the blocks of masonry. 
 Those Egyptians understood the durability of different sub- 
 stances, and knew that wood, where no rain falls, if the stones 
 are closely fitted together, would last for ages, and here are 
 cramps, made of sycamore wood, as sound as when first put in 
 more than two thousand years ago. The Egyptians built most 
 of their temples of sandstone, which in a dry climate will en- 
 dure the action of the atmosphere longer than limestone or 
 granite; but underground they used limestone, because it bet- 
 ter endures contact with the salts in the earth. 
 
 The path to the tombs was for a considerable distance 
 through a barren, desolate valley, utterly blasted by the heat 
 of the sun. In any other part of the world I should have 
 been certain that great floods had taken place. But when I 
 remembered the fact that the movements of sand can polish 
 stones as effectively as rain water must account for it, I found 
 on inquiry that storms of rain do occur at that elevation, and 
 torrents of water have, though at long intervals, poured 
 through that narrow valley. 
 
 The tombs are called Babel Moolook, or the Gates of the 
 Kings. They are long passages, enlarging into halls and 
 chambers, and penetrating into the heart of the mountain. 
 
Carvings on the Rameseum. 
 
Temples and Tombs of Thebes. 291 
 
 The custom was, as soon as the mummy was deposited, to 
 build up the entrance and level the surrounding rocks to hide 
 all traces of the tomb. In the eastern valley there are about 
 twenty-five tombs open for exploration — not all of kings, ^\'e 
 visited five or six. 
 
 The first is the tomb of Sethi I, now known as Belzoni's tomb, 
 because discovered by him. We descended by a staircase to 
 the depth of twenty-four feet, went through a passage twenty 
 feet long by nine wide, and down another staircase twenty-five 
 feet. Thence through two doors by a passage twenty-nine feet 
 we reached a chamber twelve feet by fourteen. At this point 
 was a pit whose inner wall was composed of blocks of hewn 
 stone; it was originally calculated to make the impression that 
 the end of the tomb had been reached, but it served another pur- 
 pose, that of protecting the lower part of the tomb from rain 
 water. Belzoni filled this pit up; for the hollow sounds of the 
 walls of masonry and the apertures aroused his suspicions. The 
 butt of a tree was used as a ram, and as soon as the breach was 
 effected a hall twenty-six feet square, its roof and walls dec- 
 orated with highly finished sculptures, whose colors were as 
 distinct and vivid as though they had not been completed more 
 than a week or two, was discovered. Beyond are various cham- 
 bers filled with sculptures, to some extent mutilated by visitors, 
 but most of them well preserved. Long serpents are repre- 
 sented as gliding hither and thither through the rooms, or 
 erect against the doorways. 
 
 The accepted interpretation of these things is that they are 
 allegorical; the serpents standing at the portals, darting out 
 venom, are guardians of the gates of heaven; and underneath 
 these strange representations is the idea that, after the trials 
 of life, the soul, purified, becomes part of the divine essence; 
 the tomb is the emblem of the voyage of the soul to its eternal 
 abode, where the pure spirits wander over the regions where 
 stars forever shine. They relate chiefly to Sethi, who was the 
 father of Rameses II, and the occupant of the tomb. Inscrip- 
 tions, some mysterious and inexplicable, are upon the walls. 
 When the visitor reaches the end of the tomb he is four hun- 
 dred and seventy feet from the entrance horizontally and one 
 hundred and eight}^ feet below perpendicularly. 
 IG 
 
292 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The tomb of Ranieses 111 has two modern names. The best 
 known is Bruce's, named for the traveler who discovered it; 
 the other, the Harper tomb, because of a celebrated picture in 
 one of the chambers of the mahi buihling. 
 
 The process of cooking and kitchen work is portrayed in one 
 of the chambers; men cutting up joints of meat, putting them 
 in the caldron over a wood fire, pounding in a mortar, minc- 
 ing meat; men kneading with their feet, or kneading bread 
 with the hand. In all there are six chambers, some illustrat- 
 ing farming, others Egyptian furniture. These alone would 
 be sufificient to demonstrate that the people were highly ad- 
 vanced in civilization. The picture of the harpists is one of 
 the best known in all Egypt, for many copies have been made. 
 The instruments are well formed; one, if not both, of the 
 minstrels is represented as blind. 
 
 Emerging from the tombs the tourists divided into parties 
 — those who returned by the valley, and those who crossed the 
 mountain chain. 
 
Ascent of the Lidvan Mountains. 293 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 Ascent of the Libyan Mountains. 
 
 Barrenness of the Mountains — \'iew from Summit — The Descent — Colossi — 
 
 "Vocal Statue of Memnon." 
 
 The sky was cloudless, the atmosphere devoid of moisture, 
 the effect from the heights unique. The sky seemed blue, 
 but as one looked at it the background appeared a brilliant 
 black, from which infinitesimal rays of blinding white light in- 
 cessantly darted, makmg it as dazzling as the intensest electric 
 light, without contrast of shadow. The mountains were utterly 
 barren, like the Alps above the line of vegetation, yet more 
 sterile, for I have never found in Switzerland (except when 
 within a few hours of the summit of Mont Blanc) a spot 
 where, if soil could be reached, some slight indicationsj of 
 vegetation could not be discovered. Here heat, sand, rock, 
 and absence of moisture made impossible even incipient vege- 
 table life. Could one imagine a hundred thousand buildings 
 of stone, broken into pieces of different proportions, and a 
 million i:art loads of sand and oblong pebbles deposited at 
 random, the winds of a thousand years blowing them to and 
 fro, gravitation meanwhile constantly producing a conical 
 form, and the desert restoring Avhat was lost through the action 
 of the wind, and water at rare intervals pouring through the 
 ravines and down the mountain sides, he could form some idea 
 of the scene. 
 
 The height of the loftiest may not have been more than a 
 thousand feet, but the effect was that of four times the alti- 
 tude, for they rise abruptly from the plain, as Gibraltar from 
 the sea. The most beautiful view in Egypt was before us. 
 \\'hen we stood upon the highest peak, westward was the great 
 Libyan desert extending to Sahara. It was appalling to con- 
 sider that a bewildered traveler might wander there for months 
 and never see a human face. One afloat in the sea might be 
 carried to the shore by friendly tides and waves, but there are 
 
294 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 no currents in the desert. The prau-ies of the West and the 
 the steppes of Russia, when the winds blow and the tall grass 
 waves, resemble the billows of the ocean; but wind upon the 
 desert renders all things invisible. 
 
 Before us lay the plain of Thebes, over which we had passed; 
 at a distance of a few miles, the Nile, whose immediate back- 
 ground was the verdant landscape; beyond, the columns of 
 the Temple of Luxor, and the ruins of Karnak. With the 
 eye resting on the temple, the remote plain was like a prodig- 
 iously magnified picture of the full moon; the sand having a 
 silvered gold effect, and the villages and ruin, reduced to an 
 apparent level with the plain, resembling the darker surfaces 
 of the "Queen of Night." 
 
 Distant twenty miles the Arabian mountains stand perpen- 
 dicular against the sky. I tried to organize a party to ex- 
 plore them, but without success; a proposed moonlight ex- 
 cursion to Karnak, which would have been jeoparded by the 
 time such a trip would have required, proving an insuperable 
 obstacle. 
 
 On descending our sufferings from the heat were intense. 
 My traveling companion alarmed me by his appearance, as 
 well as by unaccountable weakness and pain in the head. 
 The few ladies who had chosen to make the ascent regretted 
 it. Our donkeys and guides, accustomed to the climate, did 
 not suffer; even the little water girls, carrying large porous 
 jars, ran up and down the mountain sides as cheerfully as 
 though playing in a garden. 
 
 On reaching the plain we rode directly to the Colossi, which 
 had been in sight all the morning, and which to some were 
 more interesting than any of the temples or tombs already 
 visited. They are statues fifty feet in height, standing upon 
 pedestals ten or twelve feet, and the Nile has deposited soil 
 to a height of more than seven feet around them, and 
 during the inundation they are surrounded by water. When 
 erected they consisted of a single stone, and both repre- 
 sented Amenophis III. The temple, before which they stood 
 in the attitude of guardians, has disappeared. It was built 
 of limestone, and was torn down and burned in the neigh- 
 boring limekiln. These Colossi are of breccia, a "kind of 
 

 "Wf. 
 
Ascent of the Libyan Mountains. 297 
 
 pudding stone mixed with agate-like pebbles," and having no 
 value as lime, have been spared. 
 
 One of these monoliths met with an accident which made it 
 more famous than otherwise it could have been. The more 
 northerly and renowned is the Colossus of Memnon, or " vocal 
 statue of Memnon." The tradition is that a sound issued 
 from it at the rising of the sun. It was simply known as the 
 statue of Amenophis until an earthquake, supposed to have 
 occurred in the year B. C. 27. At that time were broken off 
 the head, upper part of the arms, and body. Some say that 
 this was not done by an earthquake, but by the fury of Cam- 
 byses, the Persian, and others attributed it to Ptolemy Lathy- 
 rus. Pliny and Juvenal and other classic writers refer to this 
 statue. 
 
 There is no record of the sound having been heard when it 
 was entire, but there are many witnesses to its occurrence sub- 
 sequently. They represent that it appeared to come from the 
 trunk, and was a sonorous ringing tone, resembling a human 
 voice, and heard only when the first rays of the morning sun 
 fell upon the statue. Strangers visited it from all parts of the 
 world, and when they heard the note made an inscription to 
 that effect upon the huge legs of the statue. Strabo said that 
 he "heard it, but could not affirm whether it proceeded from 
 the pedestal or the statue itself, or even from some of those 
 who stood near its base." 
 
 Many of the inscriptions are dated, going back to the time 
 of Nero. 
 
 Various opinions are held of this phenomenon; one, that it 
 was the action of the heat of the sun upon the cracks in the 
 stone wet with dew, which is certainly heavier there than 
 would be supposed from the apparent absence of moisture in 
 the air. The action of the sun upon stones is often sufficient 
 to produce a loud noise even in much cooler climates than that 
 of Egypt. Another view is that it was a trick of the priests, 
 one of whom is supposed to have hid himself in the statue and 
 struck a metallic sounding stone. In favor of this is the fact 
 that there is such a stone still in existence in the lap of the 
 statue, with a recess cut immediately behind it, and large 
 enough to conceal an operator. 
 
opS Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 A suspicious fact is that important personages, such as the 
 Emperor Hach'ian, " heard it two or three times, while ordinary- 
 people only heard it once, and sometimes had to go several 
 times to do that." 
 
 An Egyptian loitering near made a sign that he would ascend 
 the statue and strike it; accordingly 1 hired him. The sound 
 was simply that of the blow. But the trifle paid made him happy, 
 and the circumstance gave a little more vividness to the fact 
 that nineteen hundred years ago travelers from all parts of the 
 known world stood in that very spot listening for the sound 
 with which, "when the brilliant sun shoots forth his rays, he 
 announces the return of day to the mortals here assembled." 
 
Life in Modern Thebes. 299 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 Life in Modern Thebes. 
 
 Entertainment by the Consul at Thebes — An Oriental Dinner at the House 
 of the British Consul — Wonderful Boy Gymnast — A Huge Monkey — Kar- 
 nak by Moonlight — Varieties of Stone in Egypt. 
 
 The United States consul, deputy of the consul general 
 at Cairo, is an Egyptian ; he called upon us and cordially in- 
 vited the Americans on board to an entertainment at his resi- 
 dence. There is an ancient proverb to the effect that one 
 should not "look a gift horse in the mouth;" but as he did 
 not hesitate to communicate to us, in a variety of oriental 
 modes, that it would be well to make up a purse to pay 
 the expenses of the entertainment, I am not restrained from 
 observing that it was of a peculiar character. Egyptian women 
 were brought in to dance to the accompaniment of music, 
 which reminded me of a lecture on sound delivered by an ec- 
 centric vagrant professor of oratory and music, who said that 
 all sounds are divided into two grand divisions, "music and 
 noise." By this simple classification I have no difficulty 
 in locating, rhetorically, the place of these Egyptian melo- 
 dies. The women were vulgar in deportment, but wore long 
 dresses trailing upon the floor. Their performances were acro- 
 batic and gymnastic rather than terpsichorean. One per- 
 formed with a lighted candle in a candlestick on her head, and 
 it was an extraordinary feat, as she frequently placed her head 
 at right angles with her swiftly moving body, the candle re- 
 maining in its place. 
 
 Coffee and other beverages were passed, and in the inter- 
 vals of the performance of these women they ate, drank, and 
 smoked. We were requested to guess their ages. Knowing 
 that Egyptian women look older than they are, I ventured to 
 guess the eldest to be thirty-five, the next twenty-five, and the 
 other two twenty and seventeen. But the eldest, though she 
 had been married for some years, was only twenty-two, 
 
300 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 and the youngest eleven. The entertahiment was not 
 such as 1 could recommend, or would have attended had 1 
 been aware of its character. For those who wished to see 
 what they should ncjt it was not bad enough; for those who sim- 
 ply desired to have a pleasant and varied evening's enjo)'- 
 ment there was nothing pleasant and nothing varied, and 
 the ladies and gentlemen of the party unanimously voted the 
 entertainment tedious. There is little business in Luxor for 
 an American consul, and these men make their living chiefly by 
 selling antiquities. 
 
 The British consul is a more important character, and, on 
 the evening of February 21, a party from our steamer, includ- 
 ing several gentlemen from England and Scotland, dined in 
 oriental fashion at his house. On arriving they were shown 
 into a room containing a collection of Egyptian antiquities, 
 and several albums of autographs of those who, during the 
 last thirty or forty years, had called at the consulate. Among 
 the American signatures was one that elicited interest — Ralph 
 Waldo Emerson. Before dinner was announced a servant en- 
 tered with water, and another distributed napkins. After all 
 had washed their hands they proceeded to the dining room. 
 The room was plain, but the repast might have served for a 
 king. Fourteen chairs were placed around a small table three 
 feet or so in width, which was covered by a circular brass tray, 
 a little larger than the table itself. All having been seated, and 
 a tureen of soup placed in the center, the host put his spoon 
 into the dish, inviting the guests to follow. Bread had been 
 provided. After all had partaken, the soup was removed and 
 chicken brought. The host, having torn it into small pieces 
 with his fingers, handed a tidbit to one of the ladies pres- 
 ent, and then invited the others to partake. Each took a 
 piece in his hand, and the chickens were quickly disposed of. 
 After them was served a course of two kinds of vegetables; 
 then dishes of mutton, in color as black as charcoal, but in 
 flavor excellent; stewed tomatoes were next proffered, in 
 which the host dipped his bread, 'followed by the guests. After 
 the tomatoes came the turkey, in the breaking up of which the 
 host was assisted by a native gentleman. Two dishes of 
 spinach were served, then a haricot of mutton, which was fol- 
 
Life in Modern Thebes. 301 
 
 lowed by rice, over which the gravy of the mutton had been 
 poured. The dessert was a species of tart, browned on the sur- 
 face, the contents composed kirgely of cream deliciously flav- 
 ored and sweetened. Last of all came a bowl of rice, cooked 
 with sour milk; the whole, however, had been so flavored that 
 not a trace of acidity remained, and the dish, like that which 
 had preceded it, was unanimously declared to be delicious. 
 
 The meal ended, the host said, " AU-ham-du-le-lah," the 
 meaning of which is, "Thank God." Then the servants, of 
 whom there were three in waiting, drew near with soap and 
 water, that all might wash their hands. Coffee was then served, 
 and the guests repaired to the waiting room. After a nephew 
 of the host had expressed thanks, on behalf of his uncle, to 
 the guests who had honored him with their presence, a Negro, 
 Abdallah by name, belonging to a tribe in the South, was 
 brought forward. He exhibited the mode of singing, dancing, 
 and fighting prevailing in his own tribe. On leaving, the 
 ser\'ants who had waited on the table, each carrying a lantern, 
 accompanied the guests to the steamer. 
 
 At Luxor a wonderful boy, Egyptian and Mohammedan, ap- 
 peared as a gymnast. He could not have been more than 
 twelve years of age, and was quite small, but of symmetrical 
 figure, his head being especially well proportioned. The little 
 fellow lived there and was engaged in ordinary work, but when 
 steamers lay alongside he came dow^n to the water's edge and 
 performed for the diversion of tourists. The gyrations which 
 he made were always the same, and consisted of raising and 
 lowering his arms very rapidly, accompanied by a peculiar 
 chanting and a startling crackling of his joints, producing 
 sounds like those made wdien a pair of castanets are struck. 
 His chief charm was in the brightness of his eye, the whiteness 
 of his teeth, the naturalness and gleefulness of his smile, his 
 expressive gestures, and his way of saying, "Thank you, sir;" 
 or "Thank you, mad-ame;" or " I am glad to see you, sir." 
 He soon discovered what language the traveler spoke, and 
 though he knew not another word except these salutations and 
 thanksgivings, could utter them pleasingly in a halfscore of 
 European languages. 
 
 Another curiosity was a huge monkey just brought from 
 
J 
 
 02 Travels in Tiirkk C(JN'nNENTs. 
 
 South Africa. Its height, when erect, was equal to that of a 
 short man, and its superficial resemblance to the human race 
 appalling. The owner kept it chained, and sometimes all his 
 strength was demanded to prevent its escape. Not long be- 
 fore, a powerful man took the attitude of a boxer in front of 
 this animal, which, standing erect, struck him with such 
 rapidity on each side of the face as to confuse him, and then 
 seizing him under the arms made frantic efforts to tear his 
 face with its teeth. 
 
 Karnak by moonlight is beautiful, ghostly, and almost 
 ghastly. A young lad who sought solitude hastened back to 
 the company, saying that it was no place in which to be alone. 
 
 There is great variety of stone in Egypt — granite of differ- 
 ent kinds, limestone, sandstone, porphyry, slate, siliceous red 
 gritstone, pudding stone, alabaster, gypsum, and in the Ara- 
 bian desert marbles of various sorts. The Pyramids were 
 built of limestone blocks, the temples of Thebes and the The- 
 baid generally of sandstone. But "obelisks, statues, and 
 whole sanctuaries were hewn out of the granite rocks at 
 Assouan (Syene)," and transported, by modes which can only 
 be conjectured, to the sites where they now defy time or 
 crumble before it. 
 
From Thebes to the First Cataract, 303 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 From Thebes to the First Cataract. 
 
 Temple of Edfoo— Kom-ombos — Island of Elephantine— Camel Riding — 
 Assouan — Nubian Boatmen's Song — Ride to Philce — Ancient Methods of 
 Quarrying Stone — Description of Philse — Temple of Isis — The First Cata- 
 ract — Herodotus on the Sources of the Nile— Aquatic Feats at the Cataract 
 — An Hour in the Desert — Experience of Foolhardy Tourists with Rob- 
 bers — Nubians — A Solitary Palm. 
 
 Ascending the Nile the view of the mountains on the left 
 was of thriUing interest because of the experience of the pre- 
 ceding days. The travelers generally, even the youngest of 
 them, were silent and thoughtful ; all the volumes in the ship's 
 library were in requisition, and diaries and notebooks rapidly 
 filled. I brought home nearly one hundred excellent photo- 
 graphs of Thebes and vicinity; marvelous aids to recollection. 
 
 At Edfoo we landed at the foot of a bank of sand and 
 visited the temple. Mariette quarried this as one of his first 
 works, after his appointment as conservator of the monuments 
 of E-gypt and director of the excavations. I read his descrip- 
 tion, which is that "it is a monument that speaks for itself; 
 that no description can do justice to it; that its magnificent 
 porticoes and halls are unique in Egypt, and that its excava- 
 tions were the most expensive archaeological work ever exe- 
 cuted under the auspices of the Khedive." 
 
 The heat was intense as we sailed away from Edfoo. There 
 we saw Nubians and Soudanese, and began to realize how far 
 south we were. Long and narrow strips of cultivated land 
 separated us from the encroaching desert, and here and there 
 it reached the water's edge. The bottom of the river could 
 be seen distinctly, and in many places the water was not more 
 than two feet and six inches in depth. 
 
 Kom-ombos was the next point at which we disembarked. 
 The ruins of two temples with various sculptures and some al- 
 most illegible paintings, the whole gradually being under- 
 
304 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 mined by the Nile and destined to be swept away within a 
 few years, are all that remain. 
 
 As the steamer drew near to Assouan, sand banks appeared 
 in the mouth of the eastern channel, making ^n agreeable con- 
 trast with the water and the green fields along the shore. 
 Then appeared islands of solid black rock, which had been so 
 polished by the water as to resemble black marble. The 
 island of Elephantine is well described as. "a mosaic of 
 livid green, golden sand, and black syenite." In all direc- 
 tions on the shore mountains of sand and heaps of stone are 
 thrown about promiscuously, the scene suggesting the pri- 
 meval evolutions when the earth's surface was in process of 
 formation. 
 
 The vessel anchored some distance below the town, but on 
 the shore was a crowd of traders, and camels ready for hire, 
 black, white, mouse color, and reddish. As it is necessary to 
 ride five or six miles to the First Cataract, it is the fashion to 
 do so upon the back of a camel. I had had my fill of that 
 sort of desert navigation. If one had a journey of a month he 
 could allow the first three days for breaking in, and look for- 
 ward to enjoyment; but when the tour is less than one day it 
 is pleasanter not to make it on the back of a camel. First you 
 cross your legs, and as you do that " up goes the beast; you 
 are jerked forward and get a dig in the stomach from the 
 front crotch, then you are jerked backward and get a dig in 
 the back from the hind crotch." So it continues. There are 
 differences among camels as among horses, and a South 
 American gentleman in the party declared that he preferred a 
 camel to any horse or donkey that he had seen in Egypt; but 
 most of us took donkeys. 
 
 Assouan is spoken of in the Bible under the name of Syene, 
 and was the extreme southern boundary of Egypt. 
 
 It has a population of less than ten thousand, and is about 
 seven hundred and thirty miles from the Mediterranean Sea. 
 In contrast with many other towns in Egypt, it presents an 
 attractive appearance; the stores had an excellent supply of 
 goods, and one might fancy himself in a seaport town in Eng- 
 land; but before he could settle upon this conclusion the pecu- 
 liar character of the population would reveal to him the fact that 
 
From Thebes to the First Cataract. 305 
 
 he was far from European civilization. As he passes through 
 the bazaars and wanders about the suburbs he sees a motley 
 crowd "of Egyptians, Turks, Barabras, half-naked Bisharees, 
 and Negroes of every tribe." Some are magnificent looking 
 men; these are said to come from Khartoom, easily distin- 
 guished by their grand appearance, perfectly black skin, and 
 splendidly shaped heads. 
 
 A few years ago the merchandise consisted principally of 
 gums, elephants' tusks, skins, and other southern products. 
 There has been a change, and for what was formerly common 
 we were compelled to search; but in every case found some of 
 these strictly oriental products. Our attention was attracted 
 by a hawker who was selling ebony bludgeons, lances, and 
 arrows, the points of which he claimed were poisoned. 
 
 In pagan times there must have been a vastly larger popu- 
 lation than now. There are ruins, too, of Christian convents, 
 dating back to the sixth or seventh century, and evidences 
 that it was the seat of a bishopric. Five years ago, it being 
 the principal market for traders to and from the Soudan, mer- 
 chandise to the amount of ten million dollars per annum 
 passed through the place. The Soudan has since been aban- 
 doned, and in a constant state of warfare; traveling has been 
 unsafe, and the appearance of the town indicated general 
 stagnation. Troops for the Nile expedition rendezvoused 
 here, and there was a large English garrison when we were in 
 Assouan, the troops being Egyptian, the officers Englishmen. 
 The troublous times which have since occurred were threaten- 
 ing, and troops from Cairo arriving. The place is surrounded 
 by forts. Though there are ruins of the times of the Ptolemys, 
 most of the remains are houses erected by the Saracens. 
 
 On the island of Elephantine the larger part of the popu- 
 lation consists of Nubians. They are fine-looking men, tall, 
 symmetrical, elegant, intelligent. When rowing to the island 
 we found the boatmen were of this race. As they rowed they 
 sang in Nubian dialect. One would sing, and the others join 
 in the chorus. The melody was monotonous, but not unpleas- 
 ant; the chorus brief, and as nearly as I can express it in 
 English, in these syllables: '■'■Ah hoom-rhe-nab." I tried it 
 upon several Nubians whom we met afterward, and found 
 
3o6 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 not one who appeared to understand it; but every Englishman 
 present, when the song was sung, declared this to be the 
 chorus. 
 
 Travelers formerly described the Nubian women on this 
 island as "sable Venuses, realizing the description of our 
 mother Eve as being when unadorned adorned the most, their 
 sole costume being in this serene and glowing climate an 
 apron around the middle, and somewhat of the slenderest, 
 too, composed of thongs of leather ornamented with small 
 shells." We saw none such, though not a few were slenderly 
 dressed. Doubtless the presence of foreigners and the atten- 
 tion attracted has tended to an assimilation to Egyptian cos- 
 tumes and to cause those not supplied with such to keep out 
 of sight. 
 
 The ride to Philre, at the First Cataract, was the most 
 '* fascinating and impish " of the entire journey. En 7-oiite we 
 passed several Mohammedan tombs and the graves of British 
 soldiers who had died in the Soudan. 
 
 Many of the rocks plainly show that they have been quarried. 
 Marks of wedges are perceptible, and inscriptions on the island 
 of Elephantine and at Philte tell when the blocks were removed, 
 and give the dynasty and the name of the king by whose 
 orders they were hewn and removed. Ingenious methods of 
 quarrying the stone were adopted, whose operations can be 
 plainly traced. Holes were cut to receive wooden wedges, 
 and these were saturated with water, and broke off the stone 
 'by equal pressure. An obelisk, carved but not detached from 
 the rock, remains in the quarry. If completed it would have 
 been ninety-five feet in height and eleven feet one and one 
 half inches in breadth. Other kinds of stone besides syenite 
 abound. Granite prevails, there being more of that than 
 of all other kinds of stone. 
 
 It is sometimes difficult to determine the difference between 
 syenite and granite. The general proposition of the geologists is 
 that syenite is composed of feldspar, quartz, and horn- 
 blende, and granite of feldspar, quartz, and mica. The 
 syenite of antiquity, used for statues, was really granite. 
 Cleopatra's Needle in Central Park is a specimen of red gran- 
 ite, and came from these quarries. 
 
From Thebes to the First Cataract. 309 
 
 The island of Philae is the finest bit of scenery on the Nile. 
 It is only a quarter of a mile long, and considerably less than 
 an eighth of a mile wide, and is approached by a romantic 
 route. The river contains many islands of black rock, and in 
 various places is not more than fifty or sixty feet wide, sud- 
 denly expanding into lakes. Continual surprises greet the eye. 
 The island is covered with ruins, the oldest dating back to 
 about 360 E. C. The chief building is the Temple of Isis, 
 commenced by Ptolemy Philadelphus, continued by famous 
 monarchs, including the two Cleopatras. Later Augustus, 
 Tiberius, Claudius, Domitian, Nerva, and Trajan added 
 sculptures in their own honor. 
 
 We spent six hours in this temple and vicinity. The build- 
 ing and the summit afford the best view, both of art and nature, 
 to be obtained in Egypt outside of Thebes. The west cor- 
 ridor has thirty-two columns with capitals and different forms. 
 The decorations of the roof consist of gold stars on a blue 
 ground. The towers of the first great entrance are one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet wide, and sixty feet high, covered with 
 sculptures of gods and kings. One room is supposed to have 
 been the library. On the east side is a copy of the inscription 
 contained in the famous Rosetta Stone, but one of our experts 
 pointed out the fact that only the Demotic and hieroglyphic 
 texts are given. 
 
 This temple is said to have been transformed in the sixth 
 century into the Christian Church of St. Stephen, and certain 
 crosses are considered conclusive evidence on that point. In- 
 scriptions prove that in the four hundred and fifty-third year 
 of the Christian era, more than seventy years after Theodosius 
 abolished the Christian religion by proclamation, the worship 
 of Isis and Osiris was still carried on in this temple. The 
 Christians, when they took it, covered with a coating of clay 
 or mortar the pagan inscriptions of its builders. 
 
 The First Cataract must have been in ancient times very 
 different from what it now is, merely a succession of rapids, 
 whirlpools, and eddies, caused by rocks and small islands. I 
 have seen many far larger and more striking, notably the 
 Lachine Rapids in the St. Lawrence. When the water is high 
 it is easy for boats to sail against it; when low, barely pos- 
 
o 
 
 lo Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 sible. Cicero, Seneca, and others gave accounts of the aston- 
 ishing noise made by the cataract. But this was probably an 
 exaggeration, for Paul Lucas, a traveler of the time of Louis 
 XIV, says that the cataract precipitated itself with such force 
 from the top of the rot:ks that the inhabitants of the district 
 were deaf for several miles around I This would make it more 
 terribly "the voice of many waters" than Niagara itself. 
 
 The Nile was unquestionably twenty-five or thirty feet 
 higher than it is now, but even then the whole body of water 
 pouring over could have produced no such commotion. Mari- 
 ette denies that there is any cataract there, if by that is to be 
 understood a fall of water caused by a lowering of the whole 
 bed of the stream, as is the case with the Rhine at Schaff- 
 hausen. When the Nile is low the rocks with which its bed 
 are obstructed project above the water, and small falls are 
 thus produced which sometimes swell into cascades. We saw 
 it at its best, the river being unusually low. 
 
 Herodotus, in his second book, says: "With respect to the 
 sources of the Nile, no man of all the Egyptians, Albians, or 
 Grecians with whom I have conversed ever pretended to know 
 anything, except the registrar of Minerva's treasury at Sais 
 in Egypt. He, indeed, seemed to be trifling with me when he 
 said he knew perfectly well; yet his account was as follows: 
 ' That there are two mountains rising into a sharp peak, situ- 
 ated between the city of Syene in Thebais and Elephantine; 
 the names of these mountains are, the one Crophi, the other 
 Mophi; that the sources of the Nile, which are bottomless, 
 flow from between these mountains; and that half of the water 
 flows through Egypt and to the north, the other half through 
 Ethiopia to the south. That the fountains of the Nile are 
 bottomless,' he said, ' Psammitichus, King of Egypt, proved by 
 experiment; for having caused a line to be twisted many 
 thousand fathoms in length he let it down, but could never 
 find a bottom.' Such, then, was the opinion the registrar 
 gave, if indeed he spoke the truth, proving, in my opinion, 
 that there are strong whirlpools and an eddy here, so that, 
 the water beating against the rocks, a sounding line when let 
 down could not reach the bottom. I was unable to learn any- 
 thing more from anyone else, but this much I learned by 
 
From Thebes to the First Cataract. 311 
 
 carrying my researches as far as possible, having gone and 
 made my own observations as far as Elephantine, and beyond 
 that obtaining information from hearsay." 
 
 Stanley has completed the sources of the Nile; its mystery 
 has been yielded. 
 
 On arriving at the cataract we found hundreds of men and 
 boys — Nubians, Negroes, and a few Egyptians ready to per- 
 form extraordinary feats. Stark naked, they mount round 
 logs of wood, launch into the stream, and paddle either across 
 the river or shoot the rapids; dive from points thirty and 
 even fifty feet high into the river, and rising would be borne 
 down at the rate of more than twenty miles an hour for 
 a short distance, but being perfectly familiar with the eddies 
 they soon get to the shore, and run up to travelers ready to 
 do the same thing as many times as one might care to pay the 
 small sum charged. 
 
 Shooting the cataract is dangerous. Some of our young 
 men tried to hire a party of men to take them down, but failed. 
 Two or three young Englishmen had recently lost their lives 
 attempting the feat alone. 
 
 Before turning our faces to the north I wandered into the 
 desert and spent an hour alone where it was impossible to see 
 evidence of the presence of man, except the telegraph poles 
 in the direction of Khartoom. They seemed like civilization 
 on stilts stalking across the boundless expanse of sand. There 
 was no wind; a quietness as of death was in the air; a silence 
 which Thomas Hood interprets: 
 
 " There is a silence where hath been no sound, 
 There is a silence where no sound may be, 
 In the cold grave, under the deep, deep sea, 
 Or in wide desert wliere no life is found." 
 
 Our conductor told us of a singular adventure. Among a 
 company of tourists were a gentleman and a lady who refused 
 to keep with the party. He warned them of danger, but they 
 insisted that they were quite able to take care of themselves. 
 About two hours later they returned, stating that they had 
 been robbed. It appeared that a crowd had surrounded them, 
 and utterly helpless, they were stripped of part of their 
 clothing, and their watches, money, and jewelry taken away. 
 IT 
 
312 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 They confessed that they had no means of identifyhig the 
 thieves. After rebuking them for their foolhardiness, the 
 conductor told them that .perhaps he could get their property. 
 When the time came to return to the vessel, as usual, a crowd 
 followed the foreigners down to the water's edge. After all 
 the small boats but one had gone out to the vessel, the con- 
 ductor and several others remaining to take passage in that, 
 the oarsmen were told to row very rapidly when the signal 
 was given; the conductor then seized a child from the arms of 
 its mother and the boat pushed off into the stream. The re- 
 sulting consternation and excitement were tremendous; the 
 cries of the mother, the wailing of the women who sympa- 
 thized with her, and the imprecations of the men filled the air. 
 Standing on the prow of the boat, at a safe distance, the con- 
 ductor cried out: "If you want the child bring back the 
 money and watches you stole from my friends." They called 
 upon God and the Prophet to witness that they knew not who 
 did it; but he insisted that unless it were done the child would 
 be taken away. After waiting a while they called out that 
 they had the money, and that if the child were brought back 
 it would be delivered up. The conductor refused, and after 
 much altercation one of the men swam out with the money and 
 jewelry, receiving the child, which he took to its mother. 
 
 The Nubians are lighter than the Negroes in color, and 
 darker than the Arabs. Their general appearance indicates 
 poverty, but not suffering. Fuel they do not want, as it is 
 never cold; nor do they need clothes. They are rather fine- 
 looking, and wear no head covering, but saturate their shaggy 
 hair with grease. Date palms are their main reliance, many 
 never having anything else to eat. The shadoof gives place 
 to water wheels moved by oxen, each wheel being competent 
 to irrigate a particular amount of land; when one inquires 
 about the wealth of a Nubian, the reply is not given in acres, 
 but in the number of water-wheels owned by him. 
 
 Like all half-civilized races, the Nubians are superstitious, 
 making great use of charms which they are willing to sell. I 
 bought one from a stalwart peasant who took it from 
 his neck. Of what it consists mternally I have not ascer- 
 tained; externally it resembles three dominoes, made of red 
 
From Thebes to the First Cataract. 
 
 0^0 
 
 leather. The spots signify something to the untutored Nu- 
 bian, but so also did the money for which he sold it. This 
 Nubian charm hangs in my library, as harmless as the chicken 
 
 ■. 4 -♦ ♦ A ^ 
 
 
 ^ ♦ ♦ -> 
 
 t 4 ♦ ♦ 
 
 
 % A * <W ■ 
 
 Ir. 
 
 Nubians. 
 
 bone with which a Tartar told me that I could divine the 
 future. 
 
 In the neighborhood of Assouan I saw a lonely palm of such 
 
314 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 singular beauty and stateliness as to make it a conspicuous ob- 
 ject. It seemed to spring from the barren sand, but at no 
 great distance was a fountain. Beholding it 1 thought of 
 Heine's contrast, which has been sptjken of as the "Flawless 
 Lyric: " 
 
 " A pine tree standctli lonely 
 On a far nortli land height ; 
 It slumbereth, \\ liiie around it 
 The snows fall thick and white. 
 
 " And of a palm it dreameth, 
 That in a southern land, 
 Lonely and silent, standeth 
 Amid the scorching sand." 
 
 Far north of the arctic circle I had seen the solitary pine 
 upon the desolate coast of Norway; now I beheld the palm 
 upon the burning sands of Africa. 
 
 The disturbed condition of the country made it undesirable, 
 if not impracticable, to go to the Second Cataract. 
 
Dowx THE River. 315 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 Down the River. 
 
 Southern Cross — To Luxor — Meeting David Dudley Field — Aground Fifteen 
 Times — An Alarming Illness — Arrival at Cairo — Kaiserswertli Hospital — 
 Boolak Museum. 
 
 On Monday morning, February 25, between two and 
 three o'clock, I beheld the Southern Cross. Not only this, I 
 could see the two stars of the first magnitude in the Centaur. 
 The Southern Cross requires the aid of a brilliant star in an 
 adjacent constellation to form the foot; this included, the re- 
 sult is a noble figure of a cross. The universe seemed to 
 stretch away into immensity; "faith lent its realizing light," 
 and the finest conception that I ever attained of the size 
 of the earth and the heavens above, was while gazing to the far 
 south and beholding that constellation whose circle, like that 
 of the midnight sun when I saw it, was but a few degrees 
 above the horizon. It ascended and descended slowly, being 
 visible a little more than two hours. As we vvent south it had 
 been interesting to watch each night new stars appearing just 
 above the line which separated earth from sk}'. The fashion 
 seems to be to underestimate the Southern Cross in compari- 
 son with some of our northern splendors; but making no 
 allowance for the low point at which we viewed the cross on 
 this occasion, it seemed to me a spectacle worthy of com- 
 parison with any other part of the "spangled heavens." I 
 turned my back upon it to look for my old friends to the far 
 north. 
 
 Miss Edwards said: " Our old familiar friends of the north- 
 ern hemisphere look strangely distorted. Orion seems to be 
 lying on his back, and the Great Bear to be standing on his 
 tail; while Cassiopeia and a number of others have deserted 
 en masse." This is indeed one of the peculiar features of the 
 change of position, taken in connection with the limited view 
 of the horizon, for it foreshortens many figures, so that it is 
 
3i6 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 impossible to recognize them; 1 have no doubt that the 
 Southern Cross seen higher in the lieavens would be far 
 more splendid. As for the north star, my beacon light in 
 many nights of camping out, and pedestrian journeys in moun- 
 tains and forests and on the prairies — it was so low in the 
 distant north that it took fifteen minutes to find it. The 
 stars, like some vowels, are long or short " b}' position." 
 
 I omitted to speak of our visit to Esneh, the capital of the 
 province of the same name, and having a population of 
 upward of ten thousand, ^^'e made a considerable stay there. 
 It is said to be the most healthful town in all Egypt, and we 
 saw at the hotels and the landings invalids who had been 
 sent there from Cairo and Alexandria. There is generally a 
 breeze from the north at night, which is always cool; and the 
 heat in the dav is uniform and not so high as at most other 
 points on the river. 
 
 The ancient temple is far below the level of the modern 
 town. We descended the steps into the Hall of Columns, 
 which Mohammed AH cleared in 1842; the rest of the temple 
 is under the houses and invisible. There are many sculptures 
 and inscriptions. All the finer parts are covered with black 
 smoke. Some miles below Esneh we ran aground, and re- 
 mained five or six hours in one place, giving us fine opportun- 
 ity to see the shore, with the villages and splendid range of 
 mountains. 
 
 We made the trip down the river to Luxor in less tlian one 
 third of the time it took to go up. Here we found the steamer 
 jRanieses going southward, and upon it our distinguished fel- 
 low-citizen, David Dudley Field, in his eighty-fifth year, look- 
 ing as young as most men of sixty. During a long con- 
 versation with him, he gave delightful reminiscences of 
 former visits, the last preceding this being in 1870, when, 
 as he remarked playfully, he was a young fellow of sixty- 
 five or so. At Luxor we remained a day and a half, and 
 some of the tourists revisited Karnak. Most, however, 
 ■were occupied with letters, papers, and necessary writing. 
 
 On the voyage to Cairo we experienced much annoyance 
 from the heat and frequent running aground. The average 
 depth of the channel was less than three feet, the river being 
 
Down the River. 317 
 
 lower than it had been at that time for a number of years, ^^'e 
 were grounded for twenty-four hours in one place, and three 
 other steamers and thirty vessels of different sorts, at distances 
 of not more than fifty or a hundred feet apart, were stuck fast 
 up and down the river. Several of our passengers had had ex- 
 perience on the rivers and lakes of the United States, and 
 were quite certain that the Nile pilots did not understand their 
 business. Four or five times'all the passengers who were able 
 to be moved left the vessel and went on board a dahabeah. 
 This became monotonous, especially as it did not lighten the 
 vessel to any perceptible extent. One by one the vessels man- 
 aged to float, and after constant struggling day and night we 
 got under way. Fifteen times we were aground, but this was 
 the worst of such experiences. Among the best results of go- 
 ing to the East is that one learns to wait. 
 
 In describing our descent from the Libyan mountains I spoke 
 of the alarming aspect of my traveling companion, whom the 
 heat strangely affected; and now I must unfold a tale of 
 suffering which was one of the most painful episodes in travel- 
 ing I have ever experienced. Six hours after that descent he 
 became dangerously ill. The ship was provided with a 
 physician, a young man just graduated; but he was so young 
 and so devoted to social life as not to inspire confidence. For 
 two or three days the sick man refused to have him called, 
 but when he grew worse and delirium appeared, the physician 
 was summoned, as much to find some one to take the respon- 
 sibility and stand between us and the authorities of the boat as 
 from expectation of valuable assistance. The wisdom of this 
 step was soon vindicated, for it began to be rumored among 
 the passengers that the young man had typhoid fever, 
 some being not slow to intimate that the disease was 
 contagious, such a suggestion containing the germs of 
 a panic, and tending to the development of a sentiment 
 which would have required the putting of the sick man on 
 shore, which might have meant death to him and protracted 
 misery to his friends. Only at one or two places could 
 proper treatment for a European be found, and, with the heat 
 increasing every day, the prospect of recovery without such 
 care would have been slight. 
 
3i8 '1'ravels in Three Continents. 
 
 We were agreeably disappointed in the physician, for we 
 found liim attentive, possessed of considerable knowledge, 
 and, as often happens, making a much better impression when 
 under responsibility than when having nothing to do. He sus- 
 pected the disease to be typhoid fever, but there being a doubt 
 he gave us the benefit of it, and probably romanced a little 
 in his conversation with the passengers. It is bad enough to 
 be sick on an ocean steamer, but these staterooms, intended 
 only for occupancy at night, were much smaller than those to 
 be had on the best ocean steamers. To be confined in a small 
 stateroom by day, with the temperature at nearly one hundred 
 in the shade, was awful, but thirteen days and nights this had 
 to be endured. Meanwhile four other passengers were taken 
 ill. One had lumbago, and his groans, rising sometimes into 
 shrieks, could be heard distinctly; the others had symptoms 
 of typhoid fever. 
 
 The passengers being very sympathetic, Principal Bancroft 
 and myself had no difficulty in securing relays of assistants, 
 ladies and gentlemen, who would sit near the patient while we 
 were resting. When we reached Asyoot, I addressed a com- 
 munication to Dr. J. Sandlands Grant Bey, the chief phy- 
 sician in Cairo, notifying him of the probable time of our 
 arrival, and requesting him to be in readiness to consult with 
 the ship's physician, and procure hospital accommodation. 
 
 We did not arrive in Cairo until late in the evening of Mon- 
 day, March 4. Leaving the. patient in the care of Dr. Ban- 
 croft and the ship's physician, I mounted a donkey and rode 
 rapidly to the Place Esbekeeyeh, and had the good fortune to 
 find Dr. Grant in his office. The hospital arrangements hav- 
 ing been made, we drove at once to the ship, and after a care- 
 ful consultation the decision was reached that it was a case of 
 typhoid fever, which as yet exhibited no unfavorable compli- 
 cations. The removal was a pitiable spectacle. The thirteen 
 days had made a fearful change in the appearance of Mr. Mc- 
 Fadden. But twenty-four years of age, he looked fifty. 
 Unable'to stand, he was lifted by Arabs into the carriage, and 
 taken to the hospital. As there was no permanent room at 
 the hospital. Dr. Bancroft and I repaired to the hotel not far 
 away and arranged for an indefinite stay in Cairo. 
 
Down the River. 319 
 
 The hospital was the Victoria, under the charge of the 
 deaconesses of Kaiserswerth, and it is one of the most delight- 
 ful places to be sick or to be well in the world. I can 
 never forget the atmosphere of cleanliness, the order and 
 homelikeness of the place, or the courtesy, composure, and 
 sisterly kindness of the deaconesses in charge. This hospital 
 is one of the celebrated Kaiserswerth system supported by the 
 English and German colonies in Cairo. The patients are ex- 
 pected to pay in proportion to the accommodations received, 
 but none are turned away who are unable to pay. The spirit 
 of the institution is thoroughly religious. On arriving the next 
 morning we found that our friend had passed a quiet night, and 
 the special physicians who had him in charge reported that he 
 would have to remain there several weeks, and that in the 
 course of one week they could inform us of the probable ter- 
 mination of the attack. He rapidly improved, and in a day 
 or two we contented ourselves with a single morning visit to 
 him, which was all that the physician thought desirable, and 
 spent the rest of the day in examining certain important insti- 
 tutions and features of Cairo and vicinity, that we had post- 
 poned until after our return from the First Cataract. 
 
 The Boolak Museum is without a rival in the world in the 
 value of its Egyptian antiquities, though the British Museum 
 surpasses it in the single point of historical papyri. 
 
 I had learned at Pompeii that the time to visit a museum of 
 this kind is after, not before, inspecting the cities whence the 
 contents of the museum were. I had seen the monuments 
 and the stupendous works of Rameses II; here I saw his 
 mummy. I had beheld the tomb and monuments of Sethi I, 
 who carried the glory of Egypt into Asia; here I looked upon 
 his dead body. 
 
 Reverently I took off my hat before the tomb and sepulchral 
 monument of Mariette, which is in the court of the museum. 
 In front of it are four Sphinxes, from the grand Avenue of 
 Sphinxes to the Tomb of the Bulls, at Sakkara. Behind 
 Mariette's tomb is a statue of Rameses II, and near it are 
 other Sphinxes from Karnak, sacrificial tablets of Thothmes 
 III, and various sepulchral slabs. There is also a sitting 
 figure, in gray granite, of a princess of the Twelfth Dynasty. 
 

 
 5^0 '1'ravkls IX Three Continents. 
 
 In entering one passes through a small vestibule, contain- 
 ing tombstones, columns, and capitals from different dynasties, 
 and sarcophagi from the time of the Ptolemys, into the grand 
 vestibule, filled with statues, tombstones, pictures, coffins of 
 limestone and green basalt. Entering the museum proper we 
 find it divided into different halls, in which are the original his- 
 torical monuments of different epochs of the long historv of 
 Egypt. Egyptian mythology is far more complex than Gre- 
 cian or Roman, and each succeeding dynasty modified it. I 
 saw the coffin and mummy of Amenophis I, the head wearing 
 a mask; also the cofiin and mummy of Thothmes II, and a 
 mummy of a priestly scribe in such an astonishing state of 
 preservation that the eyelashes are visible. The teeth of 
 another mummy are ground to a point. Caskets in wood 
 dating back to fifteen hundred years before Christ are in an^ 
 excellent condition. 
 
 Apart from the mummies, the greatest curiosity in the 
 museum is a wooden statue of an old Egyptian, found in a 
 tomb at Sakkara, who belonged unquestionably to one of the 
 earliest dynasties of the primeval monarchy. More has been 
 written about this than about anything else here. It is sup- 
 posed to have been a Sheik named Ra-Em-Ka. It appears 
 to be entirely uninjured. Zincke says: "There is no stain of 
 time upon it. To say that it is worth its weight in gold is 
 saying nothing, for its value is not commensurable with gold. 
 As you look at the statue intently — you cannot do otherw'ise — 
 the soul returns to it, the man is reflected from the wood as 
 he would have been from a mirror." 
 
 There is a description in the third chapter of Isaiah of the 
 dress of the Hebrew women eight hundred years before 
 Christ: "Tinkling ornaments about their feet," "networks," 
 "round tires like the moon," "chains," "bracelets," "span- 
 gled ornaments," "bonnets," "ornaments of the legs," 
 "headbands," "tablets, and the earrings," "rings and nose 
 jewels," "changeable suits of apparel," "mantles," "wimples 
 and the crisping pins," "glasses," "fine linen," "the hoods, 
 and the veils." 
 
 Many of these were imitations of Egyptian costumes and 
 decorations, and in the Boolak Museum are the originals. I 
 
Down the River. 321 
 
 saw a bracelet for the upper arm adorned with turquoises, and 
 a fan of gilded wood, with the holes where ostrich feathers 
 had been inserted. One queer article was a gold chain with 
 three flies in gold foil. Anklets of massive gold, correspond- 
 ing to the ornaments for the legs mentioned by Isaiah, and a 
 great number of rings and bracelets. A bracelet was formed 
 of pearls strung upon gold wire. 
 
 In one of the cabinets is a necklace of gold, the links of 
 wdiich are in the form of cords of rope, cruciform flowers, an- 
 telopes chased by lions, jackals, vultures, and winged ser- 
 pents. 
 
 The jewelry actually worn by Queen Ahhotpou one thou- 
 sand years before Christ, and found in her coffin, is preserved. 
 One of her bracelets had two hinges, and consists of gold 
 figures engraved upon blue glass. A gold diadem was found 
 in her hair, and is also here. A child's ball, whose owner has 
 been dead half the historic period; hairpins, mostly made of 
 wood; a chessboard, nearly four thousand years old; and ink 
 pots, for red and black ink, are among the relics. 
 
 The museum contains a collection of bronzes, inlaid wjth 
 gold and enamel; and many large statues, some supposed to 
 be the oldest in the world, are in perfect preservation. The 
 god Osiris, in the form of a mumni}', is made of bronze, inlaid 
 with gold. There is a golden boat which rests upon a wooden 
 frame. It has four bronze wheels, and effigies of twelve row- 
 ers, a helmsman, and an officer holding a baton. 
 
 I paused before the remains of a statue of Taharka. He 
 was that Ethiopian king who figures in the ancient prophets 
 (2 Kings xix, 9; Isa. xxxvii, 9), and belonged to the Twenty- 
 fifth Dynasty, which conquered Egypt and made Thebes their 
 capital. In the Bible his name is spelled Tirhakah. 
 
 While in this museum I was enabled to make rapid progress 
 in acquiring a knowledge of the symbolic mythology of the 
 ancient Egyptians. It was impossible not to discern its mean- 
 ing in the luminous arrangement; everything was classified, 
 and derived its allegorical significance from the fundamental 
 doctrine that matter is eternal and can neither be decreased 
 nor increased, but is intelligent and has creative power. For 
 the common people the source of life was described in a per- 
 
322 
 
 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 sonal form called Nun; the principle of light, Khepera. The 
 emblem of this was the beetle, scarabicus. When the egg of 
 the world was broken, the universe was divided into three em- 
 pires. A woman represents the heavenly and bends over the 
 earth; on her back floats the sun, the planets, and the con- 
 stellations. The next was the earth, and last the infernal 
 
 regions. 
 
 After all, as Bayard Taylor, says: "The most striking fact 
 in all this collection is the demonstration that the glory of 
 Egyptian art belongs to the age of Cheops, and only its deca- 
 dence to the age of Rameses II. Not only the art, but the 
 culture and religion, the political organization of Egypt, are 
 carried back to the Third Dynasty, B. C. 4450; and Menes, 
 the first historic king, dawns upon our knowledge, not as a 
 primitive barbarian, but as the result of a long stage of unre- 
 corded development." 
 
 (Wilkinson assigns him to B. C. 2320; Brugsch, 4400; and 
 Mariette, 5004; but this diversity does not affect the fact as to 
 the stage of development reached by Egypt when history first 
 finds it.) 
 
Mohammedanism in Egypt. 323 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 Mohammedanism in Egypt. 
 
 Theories of Mohammed — Peculiarities of the Koran, and its Teachings — Po- 
 lygamy — Mohammedan Services — University to Educate Mohammedan 
 Priests — Chapel of the Blind — Performance of Howling Dervishes — The 
 Copts — Coptic Churches and Language — Greek Church — Protestant Mis- 
 sions. 
 
 The religion of Mohammed is a mixture of Judaism, Chris- 
 tian, and Persian religions, with many original conceptions by 
 the Prophet himself. It is impossible to understand it without 
 a knowledge of the Koran. 
 
 Mohammed professed to believe that his revelation was the 
 oldest in the world. He hated heathenism in every form, far 
 more than the Christians or the Jews appear to have done; 
 and as an uncompromising opponent of polytheism he is de- 
 serving of respect. So intense was his abhorrence of paganism 
 that he repudiated the Christian doctrine of the Trinity, as he 
 understood it, with an indignation that never allowed him or 
 his followers to converse calmly upon the subject. He affirmed 
 that it was "assigning partners" to the only true God. Mo- 
 hammed did not advocate the persecution of Jews or Chris- 
 tians, unless they opposed his teachings; but under all circum- 
 stances idolaters were to be attacked. The fundamental con- 
 fession is: "There is no god but God, and Mohammed is the 
 Prophet of God." This is not all that the Mohammedans are 
 to believe, for they must hold firmly to God and the angels, 
 written revelation, the prophets, and the resurrection, judg- 
 ment, immortality, and an absolute fatalistic predestination. 
 
 In the Koran Abraham, Noah, Moses, and other Old Testa- 
 ment characters frequently appear — Alexander the Great is 
 called a prophet — and singular stories are told about them all. 
 
 Mohammed teaches hospitality, frugality, and forbids put- 
 ting money at interest, which prohibition is disregarded. Un- 
 clean animals are forbidden, and every kind of intoxicating 
 
324 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 drink. Each man is allowed tour wives, and Professor Socin, 
 of Tubingen, in an article written for Baedeker on the manners 
 and customs of Mohammedans, gives a description of the effect 
 of this rule. The majority of the Mohammedans, notwith- 
 standing this privilege, have but one wife, "owing to the 
 difificulty of providing for several wives and families at once." 
 The wives, moreover, are prone to quarrel, to the destruction 
 of domestic peace, unless the husband can afford to assign 
 them separate houses. 
 
 I witnessed such a state of things in Utah when visiting Salt 
 Lake City in 187 1. There I was the guest of a man who had 
 three wives. The first was old, the second middle-aged, and 
 the third young. The first was decrepit, the second was the 
 manager, and treated the former comparatively well. When 
 the husband proposed to marry the third, the second was in- 
 dignant, and complained to the first, who replied: 
 
 "He broke my heart when he married you, and I don't care 
 how many more he takes." 
 
 "Well," said number two, '■'■ she shall never come here" and 
 she did not, being supported in another house. 
 
 At least five times a day must the faithful Moslem pray, and 
 there is a prayer corresponding to the Lord's Prayer, which is 
 much used : 
 
 "In the name of God, the merciful and gracious. 
 Praise be to God, the Lord of creatures, the merciful and 
 gracious, the Prince of the day of judgment; we serve thee, 
 and we pray to thee for help; lead us in the right way of those 
 to whom thou hast shown mercy, upon whom no wrath resteth, 
 and who go not astray. Amen." 
 
 Unbelievers are not admitted to ordinary services in the 
 mosque, but are driven out as the sacred hour approaches. 
 By feeing custodians we were occasionally permitted to look 
 through the windows at their service. Without an image or 
 music, or any external aid to the senses, they prostrate them- 
 selves before God, reverently adoring him, repeating the 
 names of his attributes, and are ready to die for their faith 
 with a stolid heroism which would defy the force, ingenuity, 
 and munitions of inquisition and death of the mightiest mon- 
 archies and religious organizations on the globe. 
 
MOHAM.MEDAXIS.M IN EgYPT. 325 
 
 To say that -Mohammedanism is a dying religion appears to 
 me incorrect. Of course, it has different contending sects, 
 and where it conies in contact with European religions its vo- 
 taries are corrupted, their strictness is relaxed, and they as- 
 sume the garb and customs of unbelievers. Different systems 
 of philosophy arise; skepticism appears, and as there are infidel 
 nominal Catholics, depraved and almost pagan Christian sects, 
 unbelieving, scoffing Protestants, so among the Mohammedans 
 can be found similar degrees of faith and unfaith.- But this 
 state of things, however much it may be deplored, does not im- 
 ply that Christianity is dying; neither does a similar condition 
 imply the decay of Mohammedanism. It develops in the Sou- 
 dan and elsewhere the same fanatical devotion, and, in my 
 judgment, will exist for hundreds of years, capturing new 
 tribes in the far East, and on the frontiers resisting every 
 encroachment. When it arose its type of civilization made 
 it possible to contend for centuries, successfully, upon the field 
 of battle. It can do that no longer when in conflict with 
 European powers; but the vastness of the East is not under- 
 stood; its immense populations are not comprehended; only 
 upon the surface and the outskirts is Mohammedanism mate- 
 rially modified. 
 
 In Cairo is a university for the instruction of Mohammedan 
 priests. Its seat is the ancient Mosque of Gami-el-Azhar, and 
 it was transformed into a university about the year of our 
 Lord 980. From ten to twelve thousand students assemble 
 here every day; in point of numbers leading all the universi- 
 ties of the world. We saw the students grouped around the 
 professors. Some had no books; others were swaying to and 
 fro getting their lessons; others listening to the expositions of 
 the teacher. There are four different sects, and each has a 
 niche. The students were assembled in different places, ac- 
 cording to the countries whence they came; and these places 
 are called J^hcaks, as, the Rhvak of the AVest Africans, of the 
 Syrians, Bagdadites, and of those who come from Mecca and 
 Medina. 
 
 The whole number of Sheiks, or professors, is about two 
 hundred and fifty. Tuition is free, all the mosques being en- 
 dowed, and an annual subsidy is distributed to each Rkuak. 
 
326 Tra\ ELS IX Three Continents. 
 
 The ordinary time necessary to graduate is three years; but 
 some remain as long as six or seven. The Sheiks get no sal- 
 ary, but earn a living by teaching in private houses, and it is 
 understood that such pupils often make gifts to their pro- 
 fessors. 
 
 We saw the president. He receives a salary, and is a dignified 
 man, apparently much beloved, and we were told that he is a 
 great wit. The finest specimen of oriental courtesy I saw 
 was when he bowed to the students and indicated to them 
 that the lesson for the day was over. 
 
 Students who do not speak Arabic have to begin by master- 
 ing the grammar; they then proceed with religious instruction, 
 after which comes the study of law, ecclesiastical and secular, 
 logic, rhetoric, poetry, and elocution. Authorities agree that 
 instruction is purely inemoriter. At graduation they receive 
 diplomas, and can go forth to teach. This, though the larg- 
 est university, is not the only one. 
 
 A curious little chapel is known as the Chapel of the Blind. 
 These students have always been fanatical, engage in riots, 
 and display a singular power of finding and assaulting their 
 foes. 
 
 I could not see the spinning dervishes when in Egypt, for 
 during my first visit to Cairo the head spinner was disabled; 
 during my absence he died, and for a month or more after his 
 demise his devotees would not spin. But the howling der- 
 vishes performed every Friday afternoon. I was present on 
 one occasion, and narrowly observed all that was done. The 
 monastery is in a suburb of Cairo, on the banks of the Nile. 
 At the appointed time the Sheik, whose office is hereditary, 
 sits down in front of the niche called the Kibleh, in the direc- 
 tion of Mecca, and the dervishes, sitting crosslegged upon the 
 ground, form a large semicircle. Visitors stand outside a rail- 
 ing four or five feet high. There is no charge for admission. 
 
 Either the Sheik or a person appointed by him offers a brief 
 prayer; then the dervishes utter in a loud voice the name of 
 God, Allah, and declare his unity — " Z<7 ilaha il Allah." The 
 moment they have done this they rise and come into the view 
 of visitors not fortunate enough to secure a position next the 
 railing. It was a weird spectacle. The dervishes were 
 
Howling Dervish. 
 
Mohammedanism in Egypt. 329 
 
 peculiarly dressed, and of different complexions, some being 
 pure Negroes from the Soudan. Without exception their 
 voices were guttural and as harsh as the suppressed roar of the 
 lion, and some of them as rasping as a camel's growl. 
 
 The deputy of the Sheik was a fine-looking man, of intellec- 
 tual cast and noble figure, with features and form not unlike 
 those in portraits of Thomas Jefferson. He wore green spec- 
 tacles with gold bows. Every motion was graceful and 
 dignified, his voice soft and musical, and 1 was told that he 
 is an educated man. 
 
 There were fifty dervishes, one of whom was a small and 
 handsome boy. Their hair was from one to three feet in 
 length, abundant, and as black, coarse, and straight as the 
 hair in a horse's tail. Once upon their feet, the men repeated 
 in a monotone the words which they had first uttered, and 
 other passages from the Koran, thrusting their heads backward 
 and forward as they spoke, bending so that the upper part of 
 their bodies formed nearly a right angle with their legs. 
 
 At first the motion was slow and in perfect time, and the 
 sound chiefly occupied the attention of the observer. It is 
 difficult to impart any idea of the volume of sound. The 
 voices of women who have raved in insanity for years some- 
 times undergo such a change that it is difficult, their forms 
 not seen, to believe that they are not men of the largest 
 proportions. What, then, must be the effect of the contin- 
 ual repetition of these words upon voices naturally guttural ? 
 
 As they proceeded the time grew more rapid and their 
 voices waxed so loud as to become positively terrible. Ladies 
 retired long before the exercises were ended; and a gentleman 
 from London took his departure, saying that he had an almost 
 irresistible impulse to jump over the rail and begin to repeat 
 with the dervishes. The deputy merely kept time. At the 
 left of the Sheik were the musicians, who performed upon the 
 flute and a very long horn, and beat upon immense tambour- 
 ines and small metal drums. 
 
 Toward the climax the vehemence of the performance was 
 appalling. Many seemed to become unconscious of their sur- 
 roundings; their hair streamed out in masses, and divided, 
 flowing over their faces and at the sides of their heads, and 
 18 
 
330 '1'ravf.i.s IX Three Coxtixexts. 
 
 sometimes seemetl to sland literally un end as though a solid 
 body. One visitor claimed that a man near him who moved 
 his feet frequently emitted electric sparks. 1 did not see this, 
 but am not prepared to say that it is incredible. 
 
 Some of the dervishes turned toward the visitors with 
 the aspect of maniacs; others frothed at the mouth like dogs 
 with hydrophobia, and near the close a gigantic Negro be- 
 came wild. He shouted, threw back his head, was seized by 
 two of the others, and sank into a cataleptic trance. Our guide 
 translated some of his expressions, which were enthusiastic 
 utterances of the names and attributes of the Deity, and the 
 guide told us that " the power frequently came upon them in 
 that way. " 
 
 There were three divisions of the service without intermis- 
 sion, the transitions being marked by a lowering of the tones 
 and a gradual slowing of the motions. I would not have be- 
 lieved it possible for the human body to sustain such contor- 
 tions without a rush of blood to the head, accompanied by 
 convulsions or apoplexy. The vehemence and rapidity of the 
 movements exceeded any acrobatic performance, while the 
 howls would have put a whole menagerie to flight; but what a 
 man does every day he can do any day. 
 
 At last the Sheik waved his hand; there was silence, and he 
 offered a prayer in a low tone. Then all repeated the word 
 Hoo, the meaning of which is ''He," referring to God, and, 
 one by one, kissing the hand of the Sheik, they passed out 
 through the center of the building. 
 
 The howling dervishes carry on ordinary business. They 
 train their male children to be their successors, and are not, 
 either by the intelligent Mohammedans or the public, thought 
 to be specially devout. The performance, whatever it was 
 originally, is now a mixture of fanaticism and formalism. 
 
 The Christian religion early obtained an ascendency in 
 Egypt, and would probably have maintained it had it not been 
 divided into sects upon metaphysical questions, and engaged in 
 internecine wars. It was about 638 that the Arabs conquered 
 the country; the majority of the peasants accepted the Mo- 
 hammedan faith, and to-day nine tenths of the population of 
 Egypt are of that religion. Many of the Copts, however, 
 
Mohammedanism in Egypt. 331 
 
 "undoubtedly the most direct descendants of the ancient 
 Egyptians," have adhered to Christianity. They belong to an 
 ancient sect called Eutychians, otherwise known as Monophysites, 
 the chief point in their belief being that Christ had no human 
 nature, but was wholly divine. 
 
 As a class the Copts pursue the indoor trades; are jewelers, 
 tailors, etc. ; and their aptitude for mathematics brings them 
 into demand also as accountants, bookkeepers, and clerks. 
 In some respects their characters do not compare favorably 
 with the Arabs. Many use spirituous liquors to excess, and they 
 are also accused of not having as fixed principles of honesty as 
 their Mohammedan neighbors. The general testimony of 
 travelers and diplomatic agents in Egypt is to this effect. 
 The inmates of the convents did not favorably impress me; 
 the religious services were the least elevating that I have seen 
 under the Christian name, and were longer than those of the 
 Greek Church. The people revere the Bible, and many know 
 by heart the gospels. 
 
 I visited several of their churches, which are numerous 
 in proportion to the worshipers. Their pulpits are generally 
 of marble; and the buildings contain many shrines for relics 
 of saints. Much use is made of processional crosses, and I 
 saw one long procession in Cairo in which these were used 
 with flags attached. Some of the churches are famous 
 for beautiful antique silver and brass censers; some of these 
 having bells attached to the chains. There are also rich cov- 
 erings made of silver, silver-gilt, or iron, for copies of the gos- 
 pels, and inside these cases the gospels are "hermetically 
 sealed." The communion is administered in both wine and 
 bread, and is given to children; and during the administration 
 the priests are always barefooted — an ancient practice, which 
 is said to have taken its rise from God's command to Moses to 
 take off his shoes at the burning bush. I was present at a 
 communion service; the chief ecclesiastics were clad in gor- 
 geous vestments and behaved in a dignified manner, but the 
 communicants rushed up to receive the elements without re- 
 gard to reverence. 
 
 The Coptic language is not used to any extent in the Church, 
 neither do the Copts generally understand it, and where a few 
 
332 Tkavki.s in Three Continents. 
 
 prayers are used in Coptic they are immediately repeated in 
 Arabic for the benefit of the hearers. The number of Copts 
 in Egypt is something less than four hundred thousand. In 
 appearance they are usually diminutive in size and lighter in 
 color than the Arabs, and wear turbans of blue or black, 
 which no Mohammedan ever does. 
 
 The Greek Church has quite a large number of members in 
 Egypt, and the Catholic Church many adherents among the 
 French population. Foreigners, wherever they exist in con- 
 siderable numbers, have brought their religion with them. 
 The Roman Catholic missions have not been successful in 
 Egypt. Altogether the native and foreign Christians com- 
 pose about one tenth of the population. 
 
 To our own country belongs the honor of establishing and 
 carrying forward successfully a Protestant mission in Egypt. 
 This was begun in 1S54, and carries on its work under 
 three departments — the evangelistic, educational, and publish- 
 ing. The work of the mission (United Presbyterian) extends 
 from Alexandria to Assouan, and includes the district of 
 Fayum. In the college at Asyoot and the three schools for 
 boys at Cairo, jNIansurah, and Alexandria there are over a 
 thousand students. I met the graduates from these schools 
 everywhere, speaking excellent English and exhibiting re- 
 markable intelligence. Some were acting as guides, some as 
 railway, telegraph, and consular agents, and still others as 
 teachers. 
 
 There is a large number of girls in the mission schools 
 (over eleven hundred), and besides these there are seventy-one 
 native schools taught by teachers who have been trained in 
 the American mission schools under Protestant influences; 
 and each of these is self-supporting. I was interested to 
 ascertain the religions of the pupils. Out of five thousand 
 five huiidred and ninety-six, nine hundred and sixty-two were 
 Protestants, three thousand four hundred and forty-three were 
 Copts, seven hundred and seventeen Mohammedans, forty-five 
 Roman Catholics, one hundred and sixteen Greeks, one hun- 
 dred and forty-four Jews, and one hundred and sixty-five of 
 various other sects. The work is conducted on the principle 
 of making them pay so far as they are able, and three thou- 
 
Mohammedanism in Egypt. ^^^ 
 
 sand eight hundred and eight3--two paid something. The 
 whole number of church members in the mission is two 
 thousand three hundred and seven, and there is a steady in- 
 crease every year. The scholars in the Sabbath school are 
 about five thousand. Nearly all the converts have been from 
 among the Copts, and the chief part of their success has been 
 in upper Egypt. 
 
 One question received a suggestive answer: "What pro- 
 portion of your communicants have been converted from Mo- 
 hammedanism? " The entire number was less than a hundred. 
 The tenacity of the Mohammedan has as yet defied the efforts 
 of other religions. It is peculiarly adapted to imbed itself in the 
 memory and to develop a stubborn adherence. While in Egypt 
 I talked with a score of intelligent Alohammedans, who were 
 charitably disposed, liberal-minded men; but when I ventured 
 to suggest doubts concerning the superiority of Mohammed- 
 anism to Christianity, they called my attention to Roman 
 Catholicism and the Greek Church, and with proud yet digni- 
 fied scorn asked: "Shall we give up one God and take their 
 images ? Never ! There is one God, and Mohammed is his 
 prophet." I had a long conversation with a Mohammedan 
 young man at Thebes, who had been educated at the Ameri- 
 can Protestant school at Asvoot, and asked him how I could 
 become a Mohammedan if I wished to do so. He explained 
 the process, and what would be done in my honor in the 
 villages if I would accept the true faith. His opinion of the 
 Protestants was that they were good people who were trying 
 to improve on the old Christianity, and if they would but go 
 a little farther thev would become true INIohammedans. 
 
334 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 The Suez Canal, and the Last of Egypt. 
 
 An Entertainment at the House of Dr. Grant Bey — .Mr. Petrie — A Sandstorm 
 — By Rail to the Suez Canal — Ismailia — History and Description of the 
 Canal — Ride on the Canal to Port Said — Characteristics of the Place — 
 Festivities at the Opening of the Canal — Leaving Africa. 
 
 The most helpful acquaintance made by our party in Cairo 
 was Dr. Grant Bey, previously referred to in connection with 
 his services as a physician. His residence is the resort of all 
 the learned, and, like the abode of Dr. Schlieman, in Athens, 
 besides being a dwelling and a professional office, it is a 
 museum. It is the habit of the cultured host to invite his 
 friends from time to time for a seance. Dr. Bancroft and 1 
 twice had the opportunity of being present. 
 
 The guests arrived about eight o'clock, and spent an hour 
 or more in the capacious parlors, engaged in mutual intro- 
 ductions and pleasant social intercourse. A little after nine, 
 Dr. Grant read a paper upon an important branch of Egyp- 
 tology. During the reading coffee, tea, and sherbet were 
 served at intervals of twenty or twenty-five minutes, in true 
 oriental fashion. The servants moved as noiselessly as the 
 far-famed slaves of the Caliph Haroun-al-Raschid, and the 
 reading of the paper was not intermitted. AVhenever Dr. 
 Grant referred to any particular relic of Egyptian civilization, 
 as confirming or illustrating the point under discussion, the 
 specimens, if small enough, were passed from hand to hand; if 
 large they were pointed out. So numerous and valuable are 
 Dr. Grant's possessions that they would give fame to any city 
 in this country, if collected and classified in a museum of 
 Egyptian antiquities. 
 
 I had the rare good fortune to meet the most distin- 
 guished living Egyptian explorer, Mr. Petrie. Like many 
 men distinguished for extraordinary perseverance, physical 
 endurance, and heroism, 'Mr. Petrie is in no way remarkable in 
 
The Suez Canal, and the Last of Egypt. 335 
 
 appearanct; beyond having a keen, black eye, dark features, 
 and a well-knit frame. He is equally interesting as a writer 
 or talker. More recently, at Dr. Orant's, Major General Sir 
 Francis Crrenfell Pasha, in proposing a vote of thanks, re- 
 marked that Mr. Petrie combines in an unequaled dfegree 
 the scholar, the archaeologist, and the practical worker in the 
 field of Egyptian exploration, and that he is a man of whom 
 England may well be proud. He has discovered proofs 
 of the art of writing four thousand years ago, which demon- 
 strate that "the long-disputed question, whether Homer 
 could have committed his Iliad to writing, may be decided in 
 the affirmative." 
 
 To meet such a man, to note the quiet enthusiasm with 
 which he spoke of his work, the total absence of pretense, 
 familiarizes the mind with these explorations, and gives a cur- 
 rent interest to the successive announcements of his dis- 
 coveries. 
 
 Two well-known Americans were in Cairo: ex-President 
 Andrew D. White, of Cornell University, and the Rev. Bishop 
 Charles H. Fowler. The latter was returning from a tour 
 among the missions of his Church in China and Japan; the 
 former was abroad to investigate some important scientific 
 questions, as well as to recuperate his health. 
 
 By this time a number of our fellow-passengers on the Nile 
 had succumbed to the peculiar influence which prostrated 
 several before the voyage ended. Strange to say, the athletes 
 of the party suffered most. During our last sojourn in Cairo 
 a heavy sandstorm raged, and though we were seven or eight 
 miles from the desert, a great part of the time the whole city 
 was rendered as dark as London in the thickest fog. The at- 
 mosphere was filled with particles which, blown by heavy 
 gusts of wind against the houses, trees, and human beings, 
 covered them almost as though it were a blizzard of snow. 
 We had many experiences of this sort while on the Nile, and 
 it would be diiincult to decide which is more to be dreaded, a 
 blizzard on the plains, or a sandstorm in the desert. 
 
 We left Cairo, going by rail along the skirts of the Arabian 
 desert to Ismailia on the Suez Canal. After a few miles had 
 been traveled black clouds appeared. It had been a long 
 
33^ Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 time since we hiid seen anything of the kind. Every appear- 
 ance indicated a storm of violence, and soon a few drops of 
 rain, the first that we had seen in Egypt, struck against the 
 car windows. We involuntarily remarked simultaneously, 
 "There will be a heavy shower. " But after a dashing of 
 water, such as would be produced by the throwing of a few 
 pailfuls upon the train, all was over. The clouds were chiefly 
 wind, but sometimes a little rain falls in this part of Egypt. 
 In Cairo it averages only one and a half inches per year, and 
 in Alexandria about eight inches. 
 
 Early in the afternoon we reached Ismailia, which is a pre- 
 possessing place. The roads are broad, the trees beautiful, 
 and there are fine houses and estates. The object of especial 
 interest was the residence of M. de Lesseps, the first house 
 built. It is in the st5^1e prevalent in Switzerland. The climate 
 is delightful; fresh breezes blow by day and night, winter and 
 summer, and altogether it is as attractive a place for residence 
 as Egypt contains. 
 
 Here I had the first view of the Suez Canal, the greatest 
 work of modern times. The ancients, however, in this antic- 
 ipated the moderns. Napoleon Bonaparte, that universal 
 genius, in 1798 examined the remains of old canals, and 
 ordered certain scientific men to make surveys and "prepare 
 a project for uniting the two seas by a direct canal." They 
 prepared an elaborate report, but it was not completed until 
 after the French had evacuated Egypt. 
 
 In 1855, after many projects, a plan was made by M. 
 Linant Bey and M. Mougel Bey; de Lesseps having had a 
 "first firman of concession " from Said Pasha, the prospectus 
 drawn up by the two individuals just mentioned was under 
 his superintendency. In 1856 the project was submitted 
 to the International Commission, consisting of delegates from 
 Austria, France, Holland, England, Italy, Spain, and Prussia. 
 After various modifications were decided upon the Suez Canal 
 Company was formed. 
 
 The father of M. de Lesseps, who was Napoleon's chief of 
 police in Moscow, was the first representative of France in 
 Egypt, and his son for seven years (1831-38) was consul at 
 Cairo, and therefore understood the whole subject. England 
 
The Suez Canal, and the Last of Egypt. 337 
 
 interfered to prevent the accomplishment of the plan. De 
 Lesseps opened a subscription. The capital was to be eight 
 million pounds, the shares twenty pounds each. In 1859 work 
 was begun. Four fifths of the workmen were to be Egyptians, 
 who were conscripted from all parts of the country. By 1863 
 the conscription ceased, as the drain was twenty thousand 
 fresh laborers a month, and agriculture suffered. Hence 
 machinery had to be invented to take the place of manual 
 labor. The first cost of that machinery was twelve millions of 
 dollars, and it consumed each month two hundred thousand 
 dollars' worth of fuel. 
 
 Ismail ia is midway between the two seas connected by the 
 canal, and at the center of Lake Timsah. The whole distance 
 from Suez to Port Said is one hundred miles, and the canal first 
 runs through the plain of Suez, a sort of marshy lagoon grad- 
 ually rising from the sea to the heights of Shaloof. 
 
 This part of the canal is ten miles long. The cutting of 
 Shaloof runs five miles through tenacious soil and rocks 
 covered with sand. Then the canal enters the chain called 
 the " Bitter Lakes," twenty- five miles in length, and this is fol- 
 lowed by a detour from the lakes of two miles, and two other 
 cuttings six miles long, when Lake Timsah is entered, which 
 is five miles in length, the distance from that point to Port 
 Said being forty-seven miles. "Where the banks are low the 
 canal is three hundred and twenty-eight feet wide; where 
 they are high, one hundred and ninety. At its base the canal 
 is seventy-two feet wide, and its depth is twent}^-six feet. Not 
 till the eighteenth of March, 1869, was the water of the Medi- 
 terranean allowed to flow in. 
 
 We rode along the canal from Ismail ia to Port Said upon a 
 postal steam launch called the Osiris. It was crowded, the 
 wind was high on the lakes, and the ride was not especially 
 pleasant. Having been so long accustomed to the heat of 
 upper Egypt, the wind was chilling, and overcoats and blan- 
 kets comfortable. ^Vhere the desert rose above the banks, 
 nothing but sand could be seen; but there were frequent stops, 
 at some points long enough to admit of short excursions into 
 the surrounding deserts. We passed steamers of all nations; 
 the larger vessels are required to travel at the rate of less 
 
-;^8 'Ik-wkls in Three Continents. 
 
 jj 
 
 than seven miles an hour, because a more rapid motion, by 
 the washing of the waves, would injure the embankments. 
 One of these monsters in the lock forms a spectacle of rare 
 interest. 
 
 From England to Bombay the saving by the canal is 4,840 
 miles; from New York, 3,600; from St. Petersburg, 4,840; 
 from Marseilles, 5,940; and from London to Hong-Kong, 
 4, 1 1 7 miles. 
 
 On approaching the harbor of Port Said, the canal spreads 
 to the width of one thousand feet, and, leaving the port and 
 town on the left, makes its connection with the open sea. 
 The town owes its origin to the canal, and has a population of 
 nearly twenty thousand, of whom a third are Europeans, most 
 of them French, and morally this city is one of the worst places 
 in the world. Not that the permanent residents universally 
 deserve this description, but at all times it is overrun by 
 sailors of every nationality, and those who pander to their de- 
 praved tastes are indescribably corrupt. There is no standard 
 which prevents the exhibition of every form of iniquity, so that 
 those of a sensitive disposition need to learn the art of not 
 seeing or hearing as they pass along the streets, even in the 
 daytime. 
 
 I fell in with a citizen who was present November 16, 1869, 
 at the opening of the canal. His description of the festivities 
 was graphic, and if it cost the Khedive twenty-one million 
 dollars, as has been stated, they certainly should have sur- 
 passed anything the world has ever seen. 
 
 At Port Said we took passage on the steamer Senegal, of the 
 Messagaries Maritimes Line, and sailed on a voyage which, 
 beginning in Africa, was to end in Asia. Again we saw the 
 Mediterranean, and with little satisfaction, not merely because 
 of the memory and anticipation of storms and seasickness, 
 but because it meant that we should depart out of Egypt. 
 Its rivers, ruins, Pyramids; and people have left an impression 
 not to be effaced; and the memory of an atmosphere trans- 
 lucent, of a desert more awful, if not more sublime, than moun- 
 tain or ocean, a sky "inlaid with patens of bright gold," and 
 gardens as fertile as Eden, will ever abide. 
 
% 
 
Entering the Holy Land. 341 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 Entering the Holy Land. 
 
 Approaching the Turkisli Empire — The Harbor at Jaffa — Landing — Ancient 
 History — Modern Features — Fruit and Flowers — People — Incident of 
 Napoleon Bonaparte. 
 
 Whatever his creed, who can approach the borders of the 
 Turkish empire without reverence for its domain, when he re- 
 flects that it contains the sacred places of Judaism, Christian- 
 ity, and Mohammedanism? The first rays of dawn faintly 
 illuminated the low shore as the Senegal d\-Q.\v near. We were 
 upon deck before the stars were out of sight, and watched 
 every movement upon ship, sea, and shore. As light increased 
 the mountains of Judea held the gaze of all to whom the 
 scene was new, until in the distance the lofty battlements of 
 Jaffa (ancient Joppa) came slowly into view. 
 
 We came to anchor half a mile from shore, and were for- 
 tunate that we could land at all. Jaffa, though one of the 
 worst in the world, is the only natural harbor in Palestine 
 south of Haifa. If going from the south it is a common ex- 
 perience of travelers to be carried by to Haifa, or to Beirut; 
 if going the other way, to Port Said. When the sea is entirely 
 smooth without, it is often dangerously rough in" this rock- 
 bound, rock-divided harbor of irregular depth. The city lies 
 at the foot of a rock one hundred and sixteen feet high, along 
 the slopes of which are built houses of soft sandstone, light in 
 color. These houses, rising one above another, present an 
 imposing appearance, similar to that of the citadel at Quebec. 
 
 Baedeker places first, in his summary of works descriptive 
 of Palestine, the Bible, "which [he says] supplies us with the 
 best and most accurate information regarding Palestine, ex- 
 tending back to a very remote period, and should be carefully 
 consulted by the traveler at every place of importance as he 
 proceeds on his journey." 
 
 When the boatmen came on board a scene of excitement and 
 
 / 
 
342 Travels in 'Iiiree Continents. 
 
 tumult began, the like of which we had not witnessed since 
 arriving at Alexandria. Two rival tourist companies were 
 represented by agents, who came to superintend the debarka- 
 tion of passengers using their tickets. The advantage of 
 being connected with one of these was soon seen. All trouble 
 was taken by their agents, whose baggage boats were pre- 
 ceded by highly ornamented crafts in which they rode. They 
 took charge of the luggage, drove back boatmen, and saw 
 that their passengers were safely lowered. The yells and 
 confusion were terrifying to the inexperienced. 
 
 Showers were fanning as we landed, and magnificent was the 
 spectacle of clouds, with intervals of blue sky and rainbows, 
 and all the wondrous phenomena for which we had so long 
 sighed under the hot, ever blue, dazzling sky of Egypt. The 
 rain, however, had turned dust into mud, and as we ascended 
 the hill along the narrow streets, encountering donkeys and 
 troops of camels, it required skill and effort to climb the steep 
 incline. At the summit we found carriages, which took us to 
 our hotel outside the walls. 
 
 When Joshua divided the land of Canaan the seventh lot 
 was for the children of Dan, and it ended with the territory 
 before Japho (Joppa). Up to that time it had been a Phoeni- 
 cian colony. When Solomon sent to Hiram, King of Tyre, to 
 procure suitable wood to build the temple, his specifications 
 called for cedar, firs, and algum trees from Lebanon, and 
 Hiram wrote: "We will cut wood out of Lebanon, as much as 
 thou shalt need: and we will bring it to thee in floats by sea 
 to Joppa; and thou shalt carry it up to Jerusalem." 
 
 Five hundred years afterward, when the temple was rebuilt 
 by Zerubbabel, the prophet Ezra tells us that the masons and 
 carpenters of Sidon and Tyre brought "cedar trees from 
 Lebanon to the sea of Joppa, according to the grant that they 
 had of Cyrus king of Persia." Jonah went down to Joppa 
 and took passage from there to Tarshish, supposed to be 
 Tartessus in Spain. 
 
 Here Dorcas lived and died, and hither came St. Peter in 
 response to a sudden summons, and, when he saw the dead 
 W'oman, "raised her to life." It was here that Peter tarried 
 for many days with Simon the tanner, where was wrought the 
 
Entering the Holy Land. 343 
 
 miracle which taught Peter that his old exclusiveness was to be 
 a thing of the past. From 1654 the site of the Latin convent 
 is said to be the same as that of the house of Simon the tanner. 
 The Arabs claim to have the true site beneath a mosque in a 
 lighthouse. So careful an authority as Dean Stanley thinks 
 that the present house of Simon the tanner shown to visitors, is 
 upon the spot. He says: " One of the few localities which can 
 claim to represent the historical scene of the New Testament 
 is the site of the house of Simon the tanner at Joppa." The 
 building is close to the sea; the waves beat against its court- 
 yard wall; a tradition exists of its having been for a long time 
 used as a tannery; in the center of the court there is a spring 
 of fresh w^ater necessary for such a business. We ascended to 
 the flat housetop, and above was the same sky; before, the 
 same sea and threatening rocks; in the background, the hills 
 of Judea; fishermen could be seen in and upon the water, and 
 camels, donkeys, sheep, and cattle in the streets and suburbs. 
 
 Wandering along the shore of the Mediterranean we saw 
 countless scallop shells, recalling the fact that for ages past 
 they were worn by pilgrims after their return as a mark that 
 they had been to the Holy Land. 
 
 An interesting modern feature is the Mildmay Hospital, 
 known as the Jaffa Medical Mission and English Hospital, 
 founded by Miss Bessie Mangan. She labored five years in 
 London as a missionary, and was known among the poor as 
 " Our bright-faced lady." 
 
 In December, 1877, she went out to Jaffa to assist Miss 
 Arnott, and in less than twelve months started a medical mission 
 under a qualified native Christian doctor trained at the Ameiican 
 College at Beirut. She went to Jaffa at her own charges, 
 and was free to do as she pleased. When the hospital opened 
 there were twenty patients, and the attendance soon swelled 
 to one hundred. Jews, IMoslems, Latins, Greeks, and Maron- 
 ites listened to her words and received with love her womanly 
 and Christly ministrations. " She never spoke to them of 
 creeds, but simply of their sins and of the Saviour whose love 
 had brought her there, and bigotr}^ was silent before the truth 
 thus tenderly and winningly displayed." 
 
 The Turks opposed the work, but its excellent results and 
 
^.j4 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 her persuasion in personal visits to Constantinople overcame 
 the opposition, and, when the hospital was finally dedicated, 
 Moslem and Jewish officials attended. The number of at- 
 tendants at the Medical Mission amounted to eleven thousand 
 one hundred and seventy-six in the thirteen months preced- 
 ing December 31, 1886. During that time two hundred and 
 thirty-one were nursed in the hospital, and one hundred and 
 twenty scholars attended the Sunday school. The fund is 
 collected from all parts of the United Kingdom. 
 
 Miss Arnott's school, to which Miss Mangan first went in 
 Jaffa, is also a voluntary school, established in 1863. It has 
 met with success, and sustains a school of fifty day pupils. 
 
 The immense size of the fruits and vegetables for sale in the 
 market reminds one of California. We were there when the 
 orange gardens were beginning to blossom, and the lemon, apri- 
 cot, apple, quince, and plum trees were in bloom. Gardens 
 and orchards are all about the city. The oranges are the best I 
 have ever seen; they hang on the trees a great while, and are 
 sold at the rate of ten for a Turkish piaster — about a cent each 
 of our money. The people were obviously of a different type 
 from those in other oriental lands. 
 
 In whatever part of the w^orld one comes upon the track of 
 Napoleon he is sure to meet some authentic history or prob- 
 able tradition which exhibits him despotizing, and hesitating 
 at no act of force, fraud, ingratitude, or cruelty necessary to 
 accomplish his purposes; but everywhere displaying transcend- 
 ent genius and overwhelming energy. In 1799 he stormed 
 Jaffa, then surrounded with walls. A plague broke out among 
 his soldiers, and the story is that he ordered them poi- 
 soned. One critic says that in this credulous land of tra- 
 ditions it is difficult to ascertain the truth of even so recent a 
 circumstance. On the other hand Dr. Thomson, who resided 
 in Jaffa as long ago as 1834, appears to believe it, and he had 
 the opportunity of conversing with Mr. R. Anutun Murad, 
 United States consul, whose father had been a resident of the 
 country, and must have had knowledge of the facts. 
 
Ix THE Way Going Up to Jerusalem." 345 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 '* In the Way Going Up to Jerusalem." 
 
 The Road to Jerusalem — -Plain of Sharon — P^lowers — Road toLydda — Tower 
 of Ramleh — Gezer — Valley of Ajalon (Valo) — Latrun — Aniwas — Abou- 
 Gosch — Mizpah — Jerusalem ! 
 
 Jaffa is more than thirty miles northwest from Jerusalem; 
 but the direct road is excellent for pedestrians, horsemen, or 
 carriages. There are but two or three roads in all Palestine 
 passable for four-wheeled vehicles, but this has been made in 
 the French style, and displays fine engineering. We had 
 bargained for a "carriage," and, when it appeared, saw a 
 wagon of the roughest sort, as inconvenient and unpleasant 
 as one would be likely to find on four wheels in any part of 
 the world. 
 
 The orange and other orchards, through which the road 
 winds at first, are surrounded by high cactus hedges, which 
 are almost impenetrable. Here and there were fountains, and 
 the road was frequently shaded by cypress and sycamore 
 trees. In less than an hour we entered the plain of Sharon, 
 which extends along the seacoast from Jaffa to Cjesarea, and 
 is an expanse of sand covered in varying thickness with soil, 
 beneath which is an inexhaustible supply of water. The soil 
 produces abundant crops, springing up almost by magic after 
 rains, or whenever artificially watered. The water wheels, 
 unlike those we had seen in Egypt, give a picturesque aspect 
 to the landscape. The supply is so accessible that the entire 
 plain seems to cover a river filtering through the sand on its 
 way to sea. 
 
 Watchtowers are frequent, and break the monotony. In 
 the open country there are neither fences nor hedges, 
 boundary lines being marked by stones as they were in Old 
 Testament times. A farm used for the instruction of Jewish 
 young men in agriculture was pointed out to us on the right. 
 A fountain surrounded by sycamores and cypresses is said to 
 
346 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 be on the site of the tomb of Dorcas. Spurious guides will 
 say that "it is the tomb of Dorcas," or "the place where she 
 was raised to life," whichever will please the traveler mure. 
 The plain itself was beautiful, for the recent rains had given 
 life to every spear of grass, and myriads of flowers of the 
 brightest yellow, the richest red, the softest blue, were bloom- 
 ing on every side. 
 
 As they passed we noted travelers of different nationalities. 
 Here were two or three Jews going to Jerusalem, and a 
 few minutes afterward we met Latin monks; then Moslems. 
 This is the ancient thoroughfare from the sea to Jerusalem! 
 Over this road filed the long processions carrying materials 
 for the temple! Kings, prophets, apostles, and countless 
 pilgrims have traversed it! Great armies, pagan, Jewish, 
 Mohammedan! Pilgrims and Crusaders! 
 
 The general character of the plants and flowers is similar to 
 that of Spain and Algiers. Tulips and anemones were 
 profuse. The Song of Solomon says: "I am the rose of 
 Sharon, and the lily of the valleys." But we saw no roses such 
 as we are familiar with in America, and though there are 
 thousands of sweet-breathed, dewy flowers, nowhere did I find 
 anything that would have suggested to me Bishop Heber's 
 simile: 
 
 " How sweet tlie breath, beneath the hill, 
 Of Sharon's dewy rose! " 
 
 Many a flower has been supposed to be the one meant by 
 Solomon — the narcissus, the meadow saffron, and certain spe- 
 cies of lily. Thomson testifies that he has seen thousands 
 of Solomon's roses on Sharon, but that they are a species of 
 the marshmallow, and says before we protest against degrad- 
 ing the poetic rose to the marshmallow: "Let me tell you 
 that certain kinds of mallows. grow into the stout bush and 
 bear thousands of beautiful flowers." 
 
 There is, however, no dispute about the identity of the plain of 
 Sharon, and it was sufficient for us to see it covered with the 
 most brilliant and beautiful flowers. Those who go there in 
 the autumn see only a barren wilderness. 
 
 The Mohammedan villages and the olive plantations inter- 
 ested us, but not so much as the traces of the primitive in- 
 
"In the Way Going Up to Jerusalem." 347 
 
 habitants of the country. After traveUng an hour and a half 
 over the road to Lydda we turned to the left, when the town 
 became plainly visible. It was there that Peter healed the 
 paralytic Eneas when he was "passing through all quarters, 
 and came down also to the saints which dwelt at Lydda." 
 There, in 445 A. D., an ecclesiastical council was held for the 
 trial of Pelagius on a charge of heresy. 
 
 We scanned the horizon to catch a glimpse of the celebrated 
 Tower of Ramleh, and at last saw it. The Arabians say that 
 the town of Ramleh was founded in the year 716. Formerly 
 it had walls with twelve gates — four large, the others smaller. 
 There is a tradition that this place is in what was called Ari- 
 mathea in the New Testament. Professor Robinson examines 
 the statement with his usual fairness and thoroughness, and 
 comes to the conclusion that it has no foundation. Thomson, 
 on the other hand, says: "I am unable to decide the ques^ 
 tion.-' 
 
 The Tower of Ramleh is undoubtedly of Mohammedan 
 origin; and walking through olive plantations and between 
 cactus hedges for a quarter of a mile, and then through an old 
 cemetery, we found it to be part of an ancient mosque. The 
 outer walls, about six hundred feet in circumference, can be 
 traced; also the rooms in the recess, the gateways, and the 
 fountains. The tower is about one hundred feet high, and is 
 ascended by one hundred and tw-enty much-worn steps. From 
 the summit one sees the entire plain of Sharon, with the 
 mountains of Judea, Samaria, and the whole land from Mount 
 Carmel, on the shores of the Mediterranean, all the way to 
 the mountains of Samaria. The Mediterranean is visible, 
 many miles away. Lydda, several miles distant, seems but a 
 few hundred feet. Along the mountain sides villages glistened 
 in the sunlight. Ashdod, Askalon, and Gath could be identi- 
 fied. 
 
 Beneath the tower are ancient vaults, and the Mohammed- 
 ans represent that they contain the bodies of forty of the 
 prophets. The Christian version is that they contain the 
 bodies of forty Christian martyrs. 
 
 The route to Jerusalem from Ramleh was still to the south- 
 east. We spent a little time in the village, but saw nothing 
 19 
 
348 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 remarkable there except three monasteries, Latin, Crreek, and 
 Russian. The Russian National Church, since the time of 
 Peter the (ireat, has not been in communion with the orth(j- 
 dox Greek Church. The Latin monastery in Ramleh is under 
 the management of the Franciscan monks. Pilgrims were 
 standing about who were remaining here over night in their 
 journey between Jaffa and Jerusalem. The palm trees were 
 insignificant compared with those in Egypt. Li the valley is 
 a cemetery for the common people; on the hills are the tombs 
 of Mohammedan saints. They were shrines of devotion as 
 well as burial places, and pious Mohammedans could be seen 
 paying their vows. 
 
 Not far from Ramleh a belated farmer favored us with an 
 exhibition of the old-fashioned Scripture plow. There were 
 the poles, one attached to the yoke to pull with, one end of 
 the other held by the driver, the other end serving as a plow- 
 share. The process is a scratching rather than an upturning of 
 the soil. A well-informed man told us that it is really better for 
 many parts of the country than an American plow would be. 
 
 The identification of Gezer, the ruins of which are visible 
 from the road, is a fact of importance to Bible students. 
 There the Canaanites were so strong that Ephraim, of whose 
 lot this was the frontier, in the time of the Judges, could not 
 drive them out; but ''the Canaanites dwelt in Gezer." i Kings 
 ix gives a full account of the ruins and traces of the city 
 boundaries; for a number of questions have been settled, and 
 clear evidences found of a city built after the plan in Num- 
 bers XXXV. 
 
 From the summit of a hill we looked forward to the valley of 
 Ajalon, now known as Yalo. "When we crossed it we passed 
 over the spot where Joshua conquered the Amorites, and, ac- 
 cording to the tenth chapter of the Book of Joshua, the 
 miracle occurred when he exclaimed, "Sun, stand thou still 
 upon Gibeon; and thou, Moon, in the valley of Ajalon." 
 How many disputes have been held as to whether that ever 
 occurred! "It is not the sun that moves, but the earth," 
 says one. "Neither the earth nor the sun could be stopped 
 without disarranging the whole solar system," says another. 
 The third exclaims, " How absurd to suppose that for an in- 
 
"In the Way Going Up to Jerusalem." 349 
 
 significant battle the heavens would be disturbed." " Joshua 
 was not inspired, or he would have known better than to com- 
 mand the sun and the moon to stand still; he would have used 
 scientific language." 
 
 Nautical almanacs, scientifically constructed at the present 
 day, use the ancient phrase, "Sun rises and sets." 
 
 The history details miraculous or natural events. If the 
 former, it is as easy to believe that God prolonged the light 
 as to believe anything else told in the book. 
 
 The five kings fled over the hills and hid in a cave, and the 
 route they must have taken was plainly before our eyes. 
 
 Refreshing springs were frequent, and as a rural scene the 
 country was charming. But after a time long mountain 
 ranges appeared, and slowly we toiled up the slopes of the first 
 mountain of Judea. The road here rose and fell, making a 
 figure of the letter S on the side of every high hill. Villages 
 of historic interest occupied our attention, but only the more 
 important can be mentioned. We had farewell glimpses of the 
 plain of Sharon, whose green turned to blue in the distance, 
 and came to the village of Latrun, the meaning of which is 
 robber. One of its legends is that the penitent thief, spoken 
 of in these myths as Dimas or Dismas, was born there. A 
 later tradition is that when Joseph and Mary went down to 
 Egypt with the infant Christ they passed through that place, 
 and Dismas and the other thief attacked them, and that the 
 one who became penitent subsequently protected the Son of 
 Mary from the violence of the other, and that on the cross, 
 when he threw himself on the mercy of Christ, this was remem- 
 bered to his advantage. This is nonsense throughout, for St. 
 Luke says that this thief at first participated with the other in 
 railing at Christ on the cross. 
 
 Two hours' journey farther there is a place called Amwas, be- 
 lieved from the third to the thirteenth century to be the Emmaus 
 mentioned in Luke; but that is now held to be impossible on 
 account of its not corresponding with the distance. Most ob- 
 jects in this region bear names derived from Bible characters, 
 often without reason. We passed Job's well, and not far from 
 it Job's monastery. 
 
 Now the road became steep; the horses panted as they 
 
350 Tkavei-s in Three Continents. 
 
 dragged tire wagon up the narrow defile. We were surrounded 
 by hills, some overgrown with stunted trees, others as de- 
 void of vegetation as the hills of Norway north of the arctic 
 circle. Where there was anything for them to eat, herds of 
 goats and flocks of sheep were feeding under the care of shep- 
 herds. On reaching the summit we could discern the sea and 
 the coast as far back as Jaffa, including Ramleh and the 
 plain of Sharon. Along the road were olive trees, and among 
 them the carob, supposed to be the tree which produced the 
 beans, the husks of which were the food mentioned in the 
 parable of the" prodigal son. 
 
 The village of Abou-Gosch dates back to 1813. A Sheik of 
 that name, having six brothers and eighty-five descendants, 
 ruled the whole region despotically, and sallied forth, like the 
 old robbers on the Rhine, upon passing pilgrims. During the 
 Egyptian supremacy they were suppressed ; but, like the 
 descendants of the Algerine pirates, they retain their wealth. 
 Abou-Gosch is buried there in a large mosque. The region has 
 been identified, by Professor Edward Robinson, with Kirjath- 
 jearim, scholars generally accepting the conclusion. Hence 
 men went to receive the ark of the Lord when the terrified 
 Philistines brought it back; and they placed it in the house of 
 Abinadab. When David had fixed his capital at Jerusalem, he 
 went to Kirjath-jearim to bring the ark to Jerusalem, but vio- 
 lated the law; bringing upon Uzzah, who attempted to steady 
 the ark, the punishment described in the Book of Numbers. 
 After it had remained at the house of Obed-edom three 
 months, it was carried to Jerusalem by the Levites, according 
 to the law. 
 
 In about an hour we reached a summit from which we could 
 see Neby Samwil, where most traditions unite in saying that 
 the prophet Samuel was buried. It was ]\Iizpah, the city of 
 Benjamin. Here on this solitary mountain peak, six hundred 
 feet above the plain of Gibeon, and three thousand above the 
 sea level, during the time of the Judges, were held the 
 national assemblies of the tribes of Israel. Here the Crusad- 
 ers built a church. In the valley of Kolonieh is a village, sur- 
 rounded by olive and fig orchards, held to have been the birth- 
 place of John the Baptist. This is based on the fact that his 
 
"In the Way Going Up to Jerusalem." 
 
 351 
 
 father was a priest, and would therefore live near Jerusalem, 
 and that, in Luke i, 39, he is said to live in "the hill country, 
 . . . a city of Juda." Kolonieh, a charming village, is 
 
 
 ^T^m 
 
 
 
 ivjij^:f^'' 
 
 ^•^^- ■■■ 
 
 
 ■■■'?^f;d';/^' ■•^-'.f- 
 
 Mizpah. 
 
 another of the numerous competitors for the site of Emmaus, 
 but cannot be harmonized with the statement of Luke that the 
 place was threescore furlongs from Jerusalem. 
 
 From this point it is a steady climb of four and a half miles 
 to Jerusalem. Higher and higher, rougher and rougher grew 
 the road, and slower the pace of the horses, till it seemed, in 
 the darkness of the evening, as though we should never reach 
 our journey's end. 
 
 When we saw the lights in the suburbs of Jerusalem it was 
 a moment of delight, of solemnity, and of sublimity. For of 
 it the greatest of the kings of Israel said: "If I forget thee, 
 O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning." To it 
 the Son of God said: "O Jerusalem, Jerusalem, . . . how 
 often would I have gathered thy children together, even as a 
 hen gathereth her chickens under her wings, and ye would 
 not!" And it became a type of heaven, for Paul said: 
 "Jerusalem which is above is free, which is the mother of us 
 all;" and John saw in the spirit "that great city, the holy 
 Jerusalem, descending out of heaven from God." And I stood 
 at the gate of JERUSALEM! 
 
oo- 
 
 TrAVELS I.N TllRLE CONTINENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 Situation — History — Population. 
 
 The situation of Jerusalem made its history, the two being 
 so inseparably connected that one cannot be understood or 
 interpreted without the knowledge of the other. The dimen- 
 sions of this city varied greatly in different ages; but its nucleus 
 remained unchanged, and that central area stands forth un- 
 questioned as the rock to which every reasonable hypothesis 
 must be fastened, and to which every explorer must return 
 for a new start. Our hotel was just outside the Jaffa Gate, and 
 from that point, after a short excursion within the walls, we 
 ascended the neighboring hills in order to observe the situ- 
 ation of the Holy City. 
 
 Far up on lofty hills, separated on the west and south from 
 the surrounding territory by deep ravines and rugged valleys, 
 its foundation being a vast plateau of limestone, on the north 
 attached to the mountains of Palestine, Jerusalem presents, 
 "beyond any iinportant city that has ever existed on the 
 earth, the aspect of a mountain city." 
 
 This situation explains most of the references in the Bible: 
 "As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is 
 round about his people." 
 
 When the chosen people conquered Palestine the Jebusites 
 were settled in this region. Their capital was Jebus, and there 
 their king lived. Within its walls they retired when pursuit 
 became hot. The triumphant list given by Joshua of the 
 kings he conquered and of the territories which he occupied 
 is brought to a humiliating close by the confession: "As for 
 the Jebusites the inhabitants of Jerusalem, the children of 
 Judah could not drive them out." 
 
 As it was at that date it remained, threatening the children 
 of Israel and def3dng their power, until four hundred years 
 after Joshua; then David determined to take away the re- 
 
'. f'l 
 
 4 
 
 '<r 
 
 n 
 
 if - 
 
 _L..f: cr'- ._ S* 
 
 ^t-kl 
 
Jerusalem. 355 
 
 proach, and punish the people for their past misconduct. 
 Flushed with previous victories he approached their city, and 
 fancying themselves secure in their impregnable fortress, they 
 taunted him, satirically suggesting that the blind and the 
 lame could keep his army out. To stir the people to deeds of 
 heroism David said: "Whosoever getteth up to the gutter, 
 and smiteth the Jebusites, . . . he shall be chief and captain." 
 It was this which gave Joab, the son of Zeruiah, "the opportu- 
 nity of his life," and "David took the castle of Zion " and 
 "dwelt in the castle; therefore they called it The city of 
 David." 
 
 Thus it came to pass that Jerusalem was not the capital of 
 the country from the beginning, as was the case with Rome, 
 Athens, and Thebes, but the nation was four hundred vears 
 old before its permanent capital, which had been at different 
 tim.es Hebron, Bethel, and Shechem, was established. 
 
 Its capture by the Arabians and Chaldeans is described in 
 the Bible. 
 
 When Alexander the Great appeared before Jerusalem it 
 surrendered. The Ptolemys took possession of it in the j'ear 
 320 B. C. Afterward came the long struggles, triumphs, and 
 defeats of the Maccabees. 
 
 Such were the internal troubles of that region so remote 
 from Rome that the Parthians took possession of the city, but 
 in the time of Herod it was recaptured; then followed the 
 brief period included in the life of Christ. The disturbances 
 after his crucifixion between the fanatics, led by Eleazar, and 
 the conservatives, resulted in a temporary triumph over the 
 Romans, which so intoxicated the Jews as to lead them to 
 attempt to achieve independence of Rome. Then the empire 
 awoke and sent Vespasian with sixty thousand men, who siil)- 
 dued the country; delaying, however, his advance against 
 Jerusalem, he finally returned to Rome, leaving the victory 
 to be completed by his son Titus. 
 
 That famous siege is an important part of Roman history. 
 Having seen the Triumphal Arch of Titus in Rome, I viewed 
 with peculiar interest the scenes of his exploits. The forces 
 of Titus were massed on the west and northwest, while one 
 legion of six thousand was on the Mount of Olives. The siege 
 
356 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 began about the first of April, A. D. 70. 'The action was inter- 
 mittent, but about the twenty-third of the month the engines 
 were brought up to near the very spot occupied by our hotel. 
 Famine within and destructive operations without reduced 
 the Jews to a terrible condition; but their courage did not 
 fail. Not till the fifth of July was the castle stormed, and on 
 the tenth of August the temple was fired. This is said to have 
 been contrary to the orders of Titus. By the seventh of 
 September the whole city was a mass of ruins, and was prac- 
 tically extinct for fifty years. 
 
 It was then rebuilt by Hadrian, passed through various 
 vicissitudes in connection with the pagan and Christian history 
 of Rome, was conquered by the Persians in 614, and in 637 
 fell into the hands of the Mohammedans, who held it for four 
 hundred years. Then came the (Crusaders, who maintained 
 their power for eighty-eight years, w4ien Saladin wrested it 
 from them, and strongly fortified it. Forty-two years later 
 the Christians again conquered it, but since the middle of the 
 thirteenth century it has been under the sway of the Moham- 
 medans. 
 
 One purpose of this sketch is to remove from the mind of 
 the reader the idea that the Jerusalem of which the Bible 
 speaks is to be seen by the traveler. It is not there. None 
 can be sure that there is standing on the site of Jerusalem a 
 single building or tower upon which Christ or any of his 
 apostles looked. 
 
 Jerusalem was founded on four hills. In ancient times 
 these were separated by very deep valleys, but the rubbish of 
 the successive destructions of the city, more than sixteen in 
 number, has filled the valleys so that the hills seem much 
 lower than formerly; but Zion still towers more than three 
 hundred feet above the valley of Hinnom, and more than five 
 hundred feet above the valley of Jehoshaphat. The valley of 
 Tyropoeon, or of the Cheesemakers, separates Zion from Akra 
 and Moriah. 
 
 Jerusalem was "compact together," for it was impossible 
 to build across the deep valleys that surround it on every 
 side except the northwest. 
 
 In the days of Herod the city had sixty towers, and a reason- 
 
Jerusalem. 357 
 
 able estimate assumes a large ordinary population, ^vhich in 
 festival times was increased to millions. P'ormerly I doubted 
 the estimates given by Josephus of the number of persons 
 present at the festivals; but on visiting the great fair at Xijni 
 Novgorod, and finding about two hundred thousand persons 
 quartered in a town that ordinarily had a population of less 
 than twenty thousand, and ascertaining that they had a sys- 
 tem of computing the population by requiring the bakers to 
 give an account of the number of loaves of bread sold each 
 day, it having been discovered that a correct estimate could 
 be made in this way, I could see how the paschal lambs sold 
 might show with tolerable accuracy how many persons were 
 present. 
 
 One thing was clear to me: there was no impediment in the 
 way of the extension of the city to the north; and if it were 
 said that the city once had a population as large as Vienna or 
 Paris, or even London, no presumption could be drawn 
 against it from the fact of the configuration of the eastern and 
 southern boundaries, while the north admitted of indefinite 
 expansion. To this day all over the ground for miles lie 
 numerous ruins and cisterns. 
 
358 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER XLVI. 
 Outside the Walls of Jerusalem. 
 
 The Valleys of Gihon and Hinnom — Pool of Siloam — Fountain of tlie Vir- 
 gin — Valley of the Kidron — Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of ihe Virgin 
 — Mount of Olives — View from the Summit — Tombs of the Kings — Tomb 
 and Grotto of Jeremiah — Walls and Gates of the City. 
 
 Rising early, the morning after our arrival, we made a short 
 e.xcursion into the city, securing an accomplished guide and 
 taking our bearings so as to be able to make estimates of the 
 relative importance of various parts of the city to our primary 
 purpose. I had resolved to comprehend fully Jerusalem as it 
 is; to see it from every point of view and in every mood of 
 Avhich I am capable; to be, while there, the amateur explorer, 
 the enthusiastic historian, the devoted antiquarian, the ardent 
 believer, the cautious skeptic, the son of Abraham, the Gentile, 
 the IMohammedan, without forgetting that I am a Christian 
 and an American : for after reading uncounted books on 
 travels in the Holy Tand, and listening to many lectures upon 
 Jerusalem, I had never been able to obtain a clear under- 
 standing of it, either as it was or as it is. 
 
 To the effort I was the more moved by meeting on our 
 arrival a gentleman who had sailed from Port Said with us, 
 and had reached Jerusalem twenty-four hours before. He 
 was disgusted with the .city and exclaimed: "There is nothing 
 to see; it is the most abominable place I have ever seen; I 
 shall not stay another night." To this resolution he adhered. 
 He was a professional man, yet, being unacquainted with the 
 Bible, and not familiar with the history of the country, he 
 could see only what he brought with him — practically nothing. 
 
 Starting from our hotel, we descended into the vallev of 
 Gihon, where Solomon was crowned king, and walked along it 
 until we came to the wall, on which was an old aqueduct that 
 formerly conveyed water from the Pools of Solomon to the 
 temple. The Pool of Gihon remains, five hundred and ten feet 
 
-1 
 
Outside the Walls of Jerusalem. 361 
 
 long, two hundred and ten wide, and apparently forty deep. 
 This pool must not be confounded with the Pools of Solomon, 
 which are more than two hours' ride from the city. 
 
 When the valley of Gihon turns eastward it becomes the 
 awful Hinnom, which was a part of the boundary line be- 
 tween Judah and Benjamin. This is the most infamous de- 
 pression in the world. When Solomon became an idolater, it 
 was on the brow of the hill which forms one of the sides of 
 this valley that he built places of sacrifice to false gods. 
 Joshua determined to make the ravine a cesspool; all the 
 offal of the city was poured into it, and there a fire burned con- 
 stantly, whence came the name Gehenna. It was a hell ever 
 before the people, whose smoke ascended day and night. 
 Here no traveler would have difficulty in perceiving whence 
 the Hebrew prophets obtained many of their terrible figures. 
 Let him descend, as we did, into the depths of the valley of Ge- 
 henna, clamber along its sides, view them from the opposite 
 point; let the eye take in the tombs, the crooked fig and olive 
 trees growing among the crags, the wall on the summit; let 
 him gaze into the various caverns, crevices, and excavations. 
 Some locate within this chasm the Field of Blood, purchased 
 Avith the money that Judas received for betraying Christ. 
 Others have concocted the myth, that when the disciples all 
 forsook him and fled, they came and hid themselves in a cer- 
 tain tomb called the Apostles' Cavern. One cave, peculiarly 
 fitted to tragedy and the concealment of treasure or hunted, 
 terrified human being, is now used as a stable. Here were 
 buried the pilgrims of the Middle Ages who died in Jerusalem. 
 
 As we left the valley of Hinnom, we came to the rill 
 described by Bishop Heber as "cool Siloam's shady rill,'" 
 and by Milton as " Siloa's brook, that flowed fast by the oracle of 
 God," and by Isaiah as "the waters of Shiloah that go softly." 
 We followed the stream to the Pool of Siloam, fiftA^-three feet 
 long, eighteen broad, and nineteen deep. It is never full, the 
 stream that flows into it from the Virgin's Fountain flowing 
 directly through it, w'ater being retained to the depth of two 
 or three feet. 
 
 Thither Jesus sent the blind man, saying to him: "Go, wash 
 in the Pool of Siloam." 
 
362 Travei-s IX Three Continents. 
 
 The Fountain of the \'irgin is artificial, and when we were 
 there the women of Siloani were carrying water from it in 
 stone jars. We descended the sixteen steps, walked four yards 
 to the second flight of thirteen, which conducted us to the 
 water. The basin is about eleven feet square. All these hills 
 are penetrated by ancient aqueducts and passages. Professor 
 Robinson crept from the Fountain of the Virgin through an 
 aqueduct to the PoqI of Siloam; others have done so since; but 
 after going a few feet, we concluded to accept their report. 
 
 The valley of Kidron has had many names. The word 
 means the "black brook." In the time of our Lord it was 
 called the winter brook, and by the Jews considered unclean. 
 It is now spoken of as the valley of Jehoshaphat. According 
 to tradition there was a prophecy that this is to be the scene 
 of the last judgment. The Mohammedans, believing this, 
 bury their dead on the east side of the Haram, and the Jews 
 inter theirs on the west side of the Mount of Olives. At the 
 resurrection the slopes of the valley are expected to move 
 farther apart, in order to make room for the great assembly. 
 The Mohammedan notion is that a thin wire rope will be 
 stretched across to the Mount of Olives, Christ and Mohammed 
 sitting on the opposite mounts as judges. There will be two 
 blasts blown by the Angel Gabriel; the first will kill every 
 living .being, and the second will awake the dead. P^very 
 human being must pass over the rope; the angels will keep 
 the righteous steady, and they will move with lightning speed; 
 but the wicked will fall into hell. 
 
 As we passed through this valley we came to the alleged 
 tombs of Zechariah, St. James, and Absalom. Absalom's 
 is large and square, and has several fine columns; that of 
 St. James is cut out of the rock, and has two Doric columns 
 with several other ornaments. It is wholly uncertain whether 
 there is any truth in the claim, and there is nothing remark- 
 able about the tombs. 
 
 The generally accepted site of the Garden of Gethsemane 
 includes about a third of an acre, surrounded by a thick hedge 
 with a wall. The Franciscan monks control it, but though the 
 gate is kept locked there is no difficulty in obtaining permis- 
 sion to enter. Seven or eight olive trees, about nineteen feet 
 
The Brook Kidron. 
 
Outside the Walls of Jerusalem. 365 
 
 in circumference, grow there, and it is quite possible that 
 they sprung from the roots of those that were standing in 
 the time of the apostles; besides these there are several 
 beautiful young olive trees, and the monks cultivate flowers, 
 which give the garden a pleasant look. On the inner walls 
 is a series of colored reliefs portraying scenes in the life 
 of Jesus, while inside is a passage with fourteen places for 
 prayer. 
 
 The account in the New Testament savs: " Tesus . . . 
 went forth with his disciples over the brook Kidron, where 
 was a garden, into the which he entered." The identity of the 
 brook being established, the configuration of the country 
 makes it almost certain that this must be the exact spot, or 
 near it. The tradition agrees so well with the Bible narrative 
 that there is little dispute. 
 
 The monks attempt to point out where important events 
 took place. A rock immediately east of the door is supposed 
 to mark the spot where Peter, James, and John slept while 
 our Lord prayed. A few paces to the south, they told us, is 
 where Judas betrayed his Lord with a kiss. 
 
 The olive oil produced from the trees brings a high price, 
 and the monks manufacture rosaries from the olive stones. 
 
 The Greek Church claims that this is not the tru& site, and 
 exhibits the "true " Garden of Gethsemane a short distance 
 farther toward the summit. 
 
 We turned to the left of the valley of the Kidron to see the 
 Tomb of the Virgin. The Greeks claim that this is the old- 
 est Christian church in the world. Every morning, from seven 
 to eight, a service is held, and during the festivals the building 
 is open to visitors from morning to night. Unquestionably 
 there was a church here in the fourth century, which continued 
 until the fifth, but was destroyed by the Persians; neverthe- 
 less, when the city of Jerusalem was captured by the Moham- 
 medans the5sfound "another church of Gethsemane." This 
 edifice is supposed to stand over the tomb, according to the 
 general custom in oriental lands. 
 
 With the exception of the porch, the entire building is under- 
 ground. The visitor descends by forty-seven marble steps; 
 when twenty- two have been passed, the entrance to a side 
 
366 Travels in I'hree Continents. 
 
 chapel on the right is reached, in which are two altars and the 
 tombs of Joachim and Anna, the father and mother of the 
 Virgin Mary. Another chapel contains the alleged tomb of 
 Joseph, the husband of Mary. The supposed tombs of her 
 father and mother were in the Church of St. Ann until the 
 third or fourth century. The known antiquity of the church 
 inspires reverence even in those who doubt whether any of the 
 persons were originally buried there or whether any of their 
 relics exist. 
 
 Sometimes the Mount of Olives has been described as re- 
 sembling one of the Alps. Other writers, content with sim- 
 ply giving its height, have made an equally misleading im- 
 pression. Its highest point is twenty-seven hundred and 
 twenty-three feet above the level of the sea; at its center it 
 is about ninety feet lower. When we consider that the highest 
 elevation in the city of Jerusalem is twenty-five hundred and 
 fifty feet, and that the temple itself is twenty-four hundred 
 and forty-one feet above the level of the sea, the central point 
 of the Mount of Olives can only be one hundred and ninety- 
 six feet higher than the temple plateau. But it must be re- 
 membered that the valley of the Kidron, five hundred feet 
 deep, exceedingly steep, not more than a hundred feet in 
 greatest width at the bottom, intervenes between Jerusalem 
 and the mount. This produces the effect of much loftier 
 height than exists, besides requiring a precipitous descent and 
 a laborious ascent either going to the Mount of Olives from 
 Jerusalem or returning to the city. From the Tomb of the 
 Virgin to the top of Olivet did not require a walk of more 
 than twenty minutes. 
 
 The base of the mountain is limestone, its surface not being 
 very irregular, though not destitute of depressions. It was 
 fresh with the grass and flowers of spring. The olive, fig, 
 and carob trees were in leaf, and there were a few pines and 
 hawthorns. The paths are stony, and the climb in the after- 
 noon sun was exhausting on account of the peculiar quality 
 of the heat. Indeed, pedestrianism in that country is much 
 more fatiguing than at the same temperature in Europe or the 
 United States. 
 
 To obtain the best impression ascents are necessary at 
 
-r 
 
Outside the Walls of Jerusalem. 369 
 
 different hours of the day. The names applied to the mount 
 are noteworthy. It is the " Mount of Olives " in Zechariah; in 
 other parts of the Old Testament, "the ascent to the Olives," 
 "the mount facing Jerusalem," "the mount which is on the 
 east side of the city; " in the New Testament, the " Mount of 
 Olives," the "mount called the Mount of Olives," and the 
 " mount called Olivet." 
 
 From the Mount of Olives Christ began the triumphal pro- 
 cession when a greai multitude cried, " Hosanna to the Son of 
 David ! " Upon the Mount of Olives he sat when his disciples 
 came to him and asked what should be the sign of his coming, 
 and of the end of the world. He stood on the slope of this 
 mountain and wept over the city; and it is generally believed 
 that he ascended from the Mount of Olives, though the two 
 accounts given by St. Luke of the ascension do not seem to 
 agree as to place. Luke (xxiv, 50, 51) says: "And he led 
 them out as far as to Bethany, and he lifted up his hands, 
 and blessed them. And it came to pass, while he blessed 
 them, he was parted from them, and carried up into heaven." 
 But in the first chapter of the Book of Acts it is stated that the 
 apostles, after having continued to gaze up into heaven for a 
 time, and being addressed by the angels, returned "unto 
 Jerusalem from the mount called Olivet, which is from Jeru- 
 salem a Sabbath day's journey." 
 
 This is but a slight discrepancy when we consider that 
 Bethany is only fifteen minutes' walk from the top of the 
 Mount of Olives. It is not steep on that side; it is in the 
 highest degree possible that the apostles and our Lord were 
 walking as they conversed, and that the ascension did not 
 take place in the village of Bethany, but in the suburbs toward 
 the Mount of Olives. Hence, in view of the nature of the 
 country, they would be spoken of as returning from the Mount 
 of Olives. If so, Luke's observation in the gospel may mean 
 that Christ led the apostles out to the Mount of Olives by the 
 Bethany road. It is believed that the entire summit of the 
 mountain was, in Christ's time, covered with buildings. There 
 were many monasteries upon it when Jerusalem was taken by 
 the Mohammedans. At present, among the buildings on the 
 Mount of Olives, is the Church of the Ascension, which is sup- 
 
o/ 
 
 o Ikavels in Three Continents. 
 
 posed to mark the site, there being near it a cave which 
 tradition declares was frequented by Jesus for the purpose of 
 teaching his disciples the mysteries of his doctrines. 
 
 The Russians have erected a tower from which is the finest 
 view. Toward the east I saw the Dead Sea, It appeared near, 
 but was many miles away and nearly four thousand feet be- 
 low. Beyond the sea is a chain of mountains in the territory 
 allotted to Reuben, and among them, though not positively 
 identified, is Nebo. To the east and north are the moun- 
 tains of Moab and Gilead and the valley of the Jordan, the 
 dark green of whose vegetation contrasts strongly with the 
 barren limestone hills on every side; Gibeah, where Saul was 
 born; Ramah, the birthplace of Samuel; and Mizpah, the 
 lonely mountain peak, his burial place; Nob, mentioned in the 
 Old Testament from the earliest times; and the valley of the 
 Kidron, extending almost from Jerusalem to the Dead Sea. 
 
 At our right was the hill Scopus, over which Titus led his 
 forces; immediately beneath, the Garden of Gethsemane and 
 the valley of the Kidron until its intersection with that of 
 Hinnom; and opposite, rising out of the sheer abyss, Jeru- 
 salem, its sacred hills easily distinguished, its walls, gates, 
 minarets, towers, domes, making an imposing view, the only 
 one worthy of the fame of the city. When Lieutenant Lynch, 
 to whom modern exploration owes so much, coming from his 
 explorations in the Jordan valley, obtained a glimpse of the 
 city, no language could describe the impression which this view 
 made upon him. A noted traveler, who speaks disparagingly 
 of the view from the north, west, and south — and not unjustly 
 — declares that no one can be disappointed who first looks 
 upon Jerusalem from the east. 
 
 Those who have visited London know that it is impossible 
 to realize the grandeur of St. Paul's without leaving the mass 
 of buildings which surround it, and viewing it from across the 
 Thames. The cathedral at Cologne seems more imposing a 
 half a mile up the Rhine than in the city. So is it wdth a num- 
 ber of the finest buildings in Jerusalem, notably the Mosque of 
 Omar. 
 
 Descending from the Mount of Olives, and proceeding 
 to the northwest around the city walls, the Tombs of the 
 
n 
 
 V) 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 n 
 
 (A 
 
Outside the Walls of Jerusalem. 373 
 
 Kings were reached. They were carefully constructed, and are 
 genuine rock tombs, but improved externally by skillful archi- 
 tectural constructions. There is ho evidence that they existed 
 prior to the Roman period, or that they ever had any connec- 
 tion with Old Testament characters or times. More interest- 
 ing are the Tombs of the Judges, but everything which relates 
 them to the remote past is mythical; even the legends are of 
 recent origin. 
 
 The tomb and grotto of Jeremiah consist of a series of rock 
 tombs, cisterns, and other curious antiquities in the possession 
 of the Mohammedans, who maintain a sanctuary. Having 
 passed through a yard containing fruit trees, broken pieces of 
 columns, and other ruins suggestive of earthquake and siege, 
 we came to the caverns, which are more than a hundred feet 
 long, and were used hundreds of years ago as a retreat for 
 Mohammedan monks. It is such a place as a gloomy prophet 
 might desire in which to meditate. As we entered what is 
 called the Tomb of Jeremiah, and in which he is said to have 
 written his Lamentations, we were saluted by the sonorous 
 bray of a donkey. 
 
 In the neighborhood are subterranean quarries of unknown 
 depth and equally unknown date. So vast are the excavations 
 that it is not improbable that they were begun before the time 
 of Solomon, and that the stones used in the temple, which were 
 prepared so that there was neither hammer nor noise of any 
 tool heard in the house while it was building, were quarried 
 and polished here. It was but a few hundred yards back to 
 the point of departure, the Jaffa Gate. 
 
 In this tour around the outskirts of Jerusalem we were con- 
 stantly within sight of the city wall, the entire length of which 
 is a little over two miles and a half. The average height is 
 thirty-eight and a half feet, and above it rise thirty-four 
 towers. These were undoubtedly built before gunpowder 
 and cannon came into use. In the wall are seven gates. 
 The Jaffa was but two hundred yards from our hotel. The 
 Arabs call it the Gate of Hebron, as all travelers to Hebron 
 pass through it. This is the only gate opening to the "west." 
 On the "north" is the Damascus Gate, irregular, having 
 several pinnacles, and known as the " Gate of the Columns," 
 20 
 
374 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 from slender columns covered by a gable. It is the custom of 
 travelers to listen for the rushing of an ancient water course 
 beneath the gate, which at certain seasons can be plainly 
 heart]. This is the only really handsome gate in Jerusalem. 
 Herod's Gate is between the northeast corner of the wall and 
 the Damascus Gate; has been known as the Gate of Herod 
 only about two hundred years, and for fifteen years had been 
 kept closed, but is now opened for a few months in each year. 
 
 The road to Samaria and Damascus leads through the Da- 
 mascus Gate, and the path to Olivet and Bethany through 
 the Gate of the Tribes, otherwise known as St. Stephen's. 
 The Gate of the Western Africans, which has another name 
 indicating the fact that the offal of the city is carried out 
 through it, is also on the south; the road passing through it 
 leads to the village of Silwan. The Zion Gate, or "Gate 
 of the Prophet David," near the alleged site of David's tomb, 
 and the Golden Gate complete the seven. The Golden Gate 
 has long since been walled up by the Mohammedans on ac- 
 count of the tradition held among the Christians that when 
 the Saviour returns to earth a second time he will make his 
 entry into Jerusalem through this gate and take the city from 
 the followers of the Prophet. Another tradition is that it is 
 the Beautiful Gate of the temple, where Peter and John healed 
 the lame man; but there is no ground for this belief. Another 
 tradition says that Christ entered the city through this gate 
 on Palm Sunday; accordingly the Crusaders opened it for a 
 few hours on that day, and the patriarch rode upon an ass, 
 while the people spread their garments along the road. 
 
 Within these walls is inclosed the modern city of Jerusalem. 
 
a- 
 
 o 
 
 o_ 
 
 n 
 D 
 
 O 
 
 ft 
 
The Sacred Places. 377 
 
 CHAPTER XLVII. 
 The Sacred Places. 
 
 The Haram Esh-Sherif — Herod's Temple— Mosque of Omar — Mosque El- 
 Aksa — Wailing Place of the Jews — Jla Dolorosa — Cluuch of the Holy 
 Sepulcher — Identity of Site. 
 
 The Haram Esh-Sherif is in tlie southeast quarter of the 
 modern town, surrounded by walls in which are eight gates. 
 The moment we entered our attention was attracted by two 
 edifices of imposing aspect on the summit of Mount Moriah, 
 which many believe to be the spot where Abraham offered up 
 Isaac, but this belief is not universal among scholars. Prob- 
 ably very near this spot David erected an altar, and the evi- 
 dence that Solomon built the temple here is almost conclusive, 
 though some place it in the southwest and others in the south- 
 east corner. 
 
 Many suppose that the temple stood in the very center, 
 elevated above the surrounding ground upon foundations con- 
 structed for that purpose. Not a trace can be discovered of 
 the second temple erected by the Jews after their return from 
 captivity. 
 
 I examined the ruins of Herod's temple. On the south side 
 are inassive foundations, and in every direction underground 
 excavations have proved that walls existed. Disputes have 
 arisen and continue concerning the site of Solomon's Porch, of 
 which John says: "And it was at Jerusalem the feast of the 
 dedication, and it was winter. And Jesus walked in the temple 
 in Solomon's porch." 
 
 This temple, one of the most magnificent works, adorned 
 with plates of gold, was protected by a castle to the north, 
 from which Titus watched the destruction of the building, 
 over which he is said to have expressed regret. The columns 
 the Jews had already destroyed, but the foundations remain. 
 
 So bitter was the animosity between Christians and Jews 
 that when Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Mohammedans, 
 
37S Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 and the Caliph Omar requested the patriarch to conduct him 
 to the spot where the Temple of Solomon stood, he found it 
 covered with rubbish, which the Christians had scattered in 
 contempt of the Jews. 'I'ill forty years ago both Jews and 
 Christians were excluded from this whole territory, few excep- 
 tions being made. Since then no serious obstruction has been 
 placed in the way of properly accredited explorers. 
 
 Mohammedan traditions are numerous. The Koran declares 
 that God conveyed the prophet from the Temple El-Haram, in 
 Mecca, "to the most distant temple whose precincts we have 
 blessed " — that is, the Mosque El-Aksa within this quadrangle 
 — and because Mohammed claims to have been here in person 
 the Mohammedans consider it the holiest of all places after 
 Mecca. 
 
 The Mosque of Omar, built over the rock and often spoken 
 of as the Dome of the Rock, is a splendid building, octagonal 
 in shape, each side being sixty-six feet long, having gates fac- 
 ing each of the points of the compass. On entering I gazed 
 about me with awe. The light came dimly through thirty-six 
 stained-glass windows, when suddenly the sun, emerging from 
 a cloud, lighted up the dreadful gloom which oppressed the 
 mind and pained the eye, and the long cloisters appeared. We 
 stood upon a pavement of elegant marble mosaic, and above 
 us rose a dome to a height of ninety feet, having a diameter 
 of sixty-six feet. The walls are covered with tiles of every 
 hue, of priceless value, and the frieze consists of tiles which 
 bear written inscriptions from the Koran. Below these, which 
 were laid three hundred years ago, the building was covered 
 with marble. 
 
 Inscriptions in the building definitely state the issue between 
 Mohammedanism and Christianity. These are specimens: 
 " The JMessiah, Jesus, is only the Son of Mary, the Embas- 
 sador of God and his Word which he deposited in Mary. 
 Believe, then, in God and his Embassador, and do not main- 
 tain that there are three." " Praise be to God who has had 
 no son or companion in his government, and who requires no 
 helper to save him from dishonor; praise him! " 
 
 But beyond everything else in interest is the Holy Rock. 
 From earlv times the Jews have believed that Melchizedek and 
 
The Sacred Places. 381 
 
 Abraham offered sacrifices here. The Ark of the Covenant 
 stood here, and it is believed to have been hidden by Jere- 
 miah, and to be buried beneath the rock. For ages it was 
 thought to be the central point of the world, and on it was writ- 
 ten the great and unspeakable name of God. It is fifty-seven 
 feet long and forty-three wide, and rises six and a half feet 
 above the pavement. The Mohammedan notion is that it 
 hovers over an abyss without support. Descending to the 
 cavern we found that there are various supports, but "the 
 earth rings hollow from below." 
 
 The guide showed us the spots where David, Solomon, 
 Abraham, and Elijah were in the habit of praying. Accord- 
 ing to the Prophet one prayer made in that spot is worth 
 a thousand elsewhere. The claim is that after Mohammed 
 had prayed he was translated to heaven riding on the back 
 of his famous steed, El-Burak. As he went by the di- 
 rectest route, he knocked a hole in the ceiling, which is still 
 pointed out. They affirm that the rock opened its mouth, 
 and so a tongue is depicted over the entrance. Another thing 
 they tell is that the rock made desperate efforts to follow 
 Mohammed to heaven, to prevent which the angel Gabriel 
 held it down, the prints of his hands being plainly visible! 
 The greatest legendary curiosity is a slab of jasper set in the 
 ground in front of the northern entrance. It is alleged that 
 Mohammed drove nineteen golden nails into this; at the end 
 of every great epoch one nail falls out, and the day of judg- 
 ment will come when the last nail is gone. The time must be 
 near, for the devil succeeded in surreptitiously destroying all 
 the nails but three and a half. The angel Gabriel interfered 
 at that point. I saw that there are but three and a half nails 
 left, and what better proof of the truth of the whole story 
 could one desire? Ancient copies of the Koran, hairs from the 
 beard of Mohammed, and other curiosities may be seen, but 
 not touched. 
 
 The Mosque El-Aksa is also a notable building, but is not 
 connected with either Jewish or Christian antiquities. " Sol- 
 omon's Stables " are singular, being within the precincts of 
 the Haram, and consisting of vaults twenty-seven feet high, 
 standing on a hundred square piers. Whether they date from 
 
3S2 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 the time of Solomon may well be doubted; but, as his palace 
 was near here, "they may have been built upon the ruins of 
 his stables." From the walls of the Haram imposing views 
 are obtained. 
 
 On leaving the Haram we went direct to the wailing place 
 of the Jews, the most melancholy spot in this melancholy 
 city. Against this old wall, regardless of the weather, Jews 
 lean, and from time to time kiss the stones and burst into un- 
 controllable weeping. Here Jews of all nations assemble; on 
 Friday especially and on festival days the number is great. 
 Here they lament over the calamities which have befallen 
 them, and their litany is so beautiful, and expresses so fully 
 their spirit, that I give a specimen: 
 
 Leader. For the place that lies desolate : 
 
 Response. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 Z. For the palace that is destroyed : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 L. For the walls that are overthrown : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 L. For our majesty that is departed : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 L. For our great men who lie dead : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 L. For the precious stones that are burned : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 L. For the priests who have stumbled : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 L. For our kings who have despised him : 
 
 R. We sit in solitude and mourn. 
 
 The most profoundly interesting object in Jerusalem is the 
 Church of the Holy Sepulcher. We approached it through the 
 Via Dolorosa., "The Way of Grief. " Leaving the Garden of 
 Gethsemane, crossing the valley of the Kidron, and ascending 
 the hill, we came to St. Stephen's Gate. The iron doors are 
 open; the guard who stands there is ready to exhibit, for a 
 small fee, a footprint of Christ. Once within the gate we cast 
 a glance at the Church of St. Anne, which was presented to 
 Napoleon HI by the Sultan at the close of the Crimean War. 
 It is an old Crusader's church, in good preservation, and under 
 French protection. The Chapel of the Scourging did not de- 
 
Wailing Place of the Jews. 
 
The Sacred Places. 385 
 
 tain us, for the event commemorated has been located in so 
 many different places that we had lost interest in the unim- 
 portant question of the site, while more than ever impressed 
 by the fact. Beneath the altar in this chapel is a hole where 
 the "Column of the Scourging" is said to have stood. 
 
 At the entrance to the Turkish barracks begins the trad- 
 itional route over which Christ bore his cross to the place of 
 his crucifixion. It puzzles one to decide how much to say of 
 the myths, legends, conjectures, reasonings, and positive state- 
 ments of often conflicting authorities, with which this whole 
 region is covered as deep as the original sites must be by the 
 debris of successive destructions. 
 
 As our Lord was taken from the Pretorium, the route must 
 depend upon its location; but about the spot there has been 
 endless dispute. In the early Crusades it was placed in the 
 upper part of the town, on the west hill. Afterward it came 
 to be believed that the Turkish barracks, on the site of the Cas- 
 tle of Antonio, are where the Pretorium stood. When that de- 
 cision was made, the so-called "holy steps," of which much is 
 made in Rome, were taken to the Church of St. John Lateran 
 in that city. Though hundreds of Jews and pilgrims annually 
 walk and weep along this route, from every Catholic and 
 Greek country, it has been established only a few hundred 
 years. A\'e paused at each station, skeptical as to their ac- 
 curacy, but not destitute of sympathy with the pilgrims, nor 
 without reverence for thoughts awakened by a comparison of 
 the Gospel narrative with the announcements. 
 
 The first regular station is in the chapel of the Turkish bar- 
 racks, it being claimed that it occupies the site of Pilate's 
 Judgment Hall. The next, a few steps distant, is that of the 
 binding of the cross upon the shoulders of Christ. A little 
 farther is an arch, not one of the regular stations, known by 
 the name of the " Ecce Homo " Arch, and also Arch of 
 Pilate. When Jesus came forth wearing the crown of thorns 
 and the purple robes, Pilate said, "Behold the Man;" this 
 arch, they say, was erected to mark that spot. It is believed 
 that this is a Roman structure of the time of Hadrian. The 
 third station is indicated by a broken column. The prepon- 
 derance of sentiment connects it with our Lord's sinking 
 
3S6 Travels in Three Continents, 
 
 under the weight ut tlie cross. 'I'hc fourth station is fixed at 
 the place where the}^ teach that Christ met his mother. The 
 fifth is where Simon the Cyrenian is said to have taken the 
 cross from Christ, in the next house there is a stone built 
 into the wall in which is an indentation asserted to have been 
 produced by Christ's shoulder as he leaned against it to rest. 
 The sixth station is near the tomb of St. Veronica. Her 
 bust is carved in stone. This is tiie spot where she is alleged 
 to have wiped the sweat from the Saviour's brow, and the 
 miracle was wrought whereby his image was indelibly imprinted 
 upon her handkerchief. In the Crarden of Gethsemane one 
 of the pictures represents that fanciful scene in a frightfully 
 realistic manner, St. Veronica being shown in the picture hold- 
 ing up her handkerchief with his face upon it. The seventh is 
 known as the Porta Judiciaria. The eighth is placed where 
 Jesus said to the women: "Daughters of Jerusalem, weep 
 not for me, but weep for yourselves, and for your children." 
 The ninth station represents Jesus as sinking again under 
 the weight of the cross, notwithstanding Simon was at that 
 time bearing it. 
 
 We now reach the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, within 
 which are the five remaining stations. Thomson remarks, in 
 The Land and the Book: " That whole street, with all its 
 sacred places, I give up at once, as no plausible evidence can 
 be deduced for the identity of any of its stations." Ancient 
 traditions say that this church covers the site of our Saviour's 
 crucifixion; but powerful considerations seem to prove that it 
 does not. To-day an influential party of explorers, chiefly from 
 the United States, are inclined to locate Golgotha outside the 
 present city walls, near the Tomb of Jeremiah. 
 
 We visited the spot and compared it with the Bible narra- 
 tive. The Scriptures plainly say that Jesus was crucified out- 
 side the city. John says: "He . . . went forth into a place 
 called the place of a skull, which is called in the Hebrew 
 Golgotha." Then follows a description of the title which 
 Pilate put upon the cross, and the gospel says: "This title 
 then read many of the Jews; for the place where Jesus was 
 crucified was nigh to the city." The Epistle to the Hebrews 
 says that " He suffered without the gate." 
 
o 
 
 a 
 
 m 
 
 n 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 3 
 
The Sacred Places. 3S9 
 
 The bulk of evidence shoTvs that the present Church of the 
 Holy Sepulcher is outside the second wall, and therefore out- 
 side the city in New Testament times. From the year 326 the 
 uniform tradition of the Christian Church has been that this is 
 the spot. It was based on the history of the Empress Helena, 
 the mother of Constantine, who came to Jerusalem when she 
 was seventy-nine years old, to find the true cross. The legend 
 is that she had definite instructions where to dig. The 
 place was covered with rubbish by the heathen, but after long 
 diggmg three similar crosses were found at the bottom of a 
 cave. Macarius, the Bishop of Jerusalem, laid two crosses on 
 the sick, which did not make them a whit the better; but when 
 the third was applied to a woman supposed to be at the point 
 of death she was immediately healed. That settled the identity 
 of the cross, and at the same time the Holy Sepulcher was dis- 
 covered. This is certain, that from 326 till now there has 
 been a continuous chain of belief that in this vicinity the holy 
 events occurred, though the place of the finding of the crosses 
 is not held to be identical with Colgotha. 
 
 Dr. Robinson says: " In every view which I have been able 
 to take, both topographical and historical, I am led irresistibly 
 to the conclusion that Golgotha and the tomb now shown in 
 the Church of the Holy Sepulcher are not upon the real places 
 of the crucifixion and the resurrection of our Lord." The ar- 
 guments in favor of the site near the Tomb of Jeremiah are 
 stated in a pamphlet by Fisher Howe. It is claimed that 
 the isolated skull-shaped hill near the Tomb of Jeremiah, not 
 far from the Damascus Gate, meets all the conditions. It 
 was "without the gate of Jerusalem, nigh unto the city, 
 noticeably skull-shaped, near to one of the leading thorough- 
 fares of the city, eminently conspicuous, nigh unto the gardens 
 and sepulchers." There are other points in the vicinity of 
 Jerusalem which, with the exception of the resemblance of this 
 point to a skull, answer these descriptions. Xor is it certain 
 that the spot where the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the 
 tomb now are is precisely what it was at the time the events 
 commemorated took place. 
 
 Visitors to Jerusalem will find the advocates of the respec- 
 tive theories of the location enthusiastic and positive; but the 
 
39° Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 present site has nearly one thousand six hundred years priority 
 of possession, and it is difficult to see how individual opinion, 
 though strong or well-sustained by reasoning, will ever make a 
 change in the general belief of the Christian world concerning 
 the location. 
 
 I entered the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in a calm frame, 
 determined to allow the scriptural narratives to have due 
 weight and to observe what the monks had to say, as one might 
 read a work of fiction founded on fact. Several visits are 
 necessary to survey the situation intelligently. 
 
 Services are progressing the greater part of the time, and 
 the sound of solemn music falls upon the ear almost contin- 
 uously, 170W loud and near, then soft and distant, and again 
 reverberating, in tones of thunder, among the corridors, 
 columns, and chapels. 
 
 We entered through that part of the church under the con- 
 trol of the Greeks. In the center is a hollow which shows 
 the spot where Abraham attempted to sacrifice Isaac. This 
 has been the tradition for about one thousand three hundred 
 years, before which it was located elsewhere. Not far from 
 this spot is an Armenian Chapel, and next to that a Coptic 
 Chapel of the Archangel Michael; gloomy places. The Greeks 
 have built a chapel, which they call The Chapel of the Egyp- 
 tian jMary, to commemorate the alleged fact that Mary, an 
 Egyptian, endeavored to enter the church in 374, and some 
 mysterious invisible power drove her away, but she prayed to the 
 Virgin Mary, and was able to resist it. Mary Magdalene is 
 honored by a chapel built upon the place where Christ ap- 
 peared to her for the third time. 
 
 The church and sepulcher extend from east to west; and 
 the first object before which we paused was the Stone of 
 Anointment. This, it is alleged, is the stone on which the 
 body of Jesus lay when it was anointed by Nicodemus, accord- 
 ing to the gospel of John. The stone has been moved sev- 
 eral times; and the Copts, the Georgians, the Latins, and the 
 Greeks respectively have owned it. The present is a com- 
 paratively new stone. For ages the pilgrims measured the 
 stone in order that they might have their winding sheets made 
 of the same length! 
 
1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 i^-^ \ 
 
 o 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 rr 
 
 
 
 c 
 -1 
 
 M>' 
 
 \ 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 zr 
 
 i 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 •-»■ 
 
 
 
 3- 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 X 
 
 
 rj 
 
 o 
 
 j^ 
 
 ■'■ / 
 
 "< 
 
 V 
 
 f^j 
 
 CD 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 ' " ^p 
 
 
 *~t 
 
 ^/jW 
 
 
 'if:i ■- 
 
 
The Sacred Places. 
 
 
 For a few centuries the Chapel of the Syrians has been rep- 
 resented to be above the tombs of Joseph of Arimathea and 
 Nicodemus. Chapels are built to commemorate almost every 
 event in the Gospel history. 
 
 Interior of the Holy Sepulcher. 
 
 The Holy Sepulcher is in the center of the rotunda beneath 
 the dome. We approached through the Angel's Chapel, a 
 vestibule five or six paces long. In the center is the stone (?) 
 
394 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 which the angel rolled away from the mouth of the sepulcher, 
 and on which he sat; it 'S set in marble. Fifteen lamps con- 
 stantly burn in this chapel, five belonging to the Greeks, five 
 to the Ivatins, four to the Armenians, and one to the Copts. 
 The Chapel of the Sepulcher, to which this vestibule leads, is 
 so small that only three or four can enter at once. Forty- 
 three lamps hang there. The Armenians, Greeks, and Latins 
 having thirteen each, the Copts the remainder. The roof is 
 supported by marble columns; every day mass is celebrated, 
 and the marble tombstone used as an altar. Since for a thou- 
 sand years the natural surface has been covered with marble, 
 no opportunity has been given for the critical examination of 
 modern scholars as to whether there is any probability that a 
 tomb exists. The chief chapel of the Roman Catholics, every- 
 where in the East called the Latins, is that of the Apparition. 
 There is a chapel in honor of Saint Longinus, erected by the 
 Greeks; but the Latins will not pause before it in their solemn 
 processions. Longinus is claimed to be the soldier who pierced 
 Jesus' side, the myth saying that he had been blind in one 
 eye, but when the blood and water reached that eye he re- 
 covered sight, whereupon he repented and became a Christian. 
 The Chapel of the Finding of the Cross is recent. Li one of 
 the chapels is an altar dedicated to the memory of the penitent 
 thief, and it was believed, down to within eighty years, that the 
 columns of this chapel shed tears. The Chapel of Adam is 
 supposed to be over his burial place, but an old tradition run- 
 neth to the effect that when the Saviour's blood trickled 
 through the cleft in the rock it restored Adam to life. 
 
 Previous to the time of the Crusaders there was a chapel 
 over Calvary, but since it has been included within the church. 
 The site of our Lord's crucifixion is covered by the Chapel of 
 the Raising of the Cross. The sites of the crosses of the 
 thieves are in the corners of the outer space, only five feet 
 from the cross of Christ. A cleft in the rock is exhibited, 
 six inches deep, covered with a brass slide. Matthew (xxvii, 
 51) says: "The earth did quake ; and the rocks were rent." 
 All kind of extravagant stories have been told about this cleft; 
 one that it reaches to the center of the earth. 
 
Bethlehem and the Convent of Mar Saba. 395 
 
 CHAPTER XLVIII. 
 Bethlehem and the Convent of Mar Saba. 
 
 An Ancient Guide — "A Vain Thing for Safety" — Tomb of Rachel — Situa- 
 tion and History of Bethlehem — Birthplace of Christ — Church of the Na- 
 tivity — Tomb of St. Jerome — The Weird Convent of Mar Saba — History — 
 Rules of the Order of Monks. 
 
 In Jerusalem arrangements had been made to secure an ex- 
 cellent guide, and a fine outfit of horses and accouterments for 
 a journey to the principal objects accessible in a few days' 
 ride from the city. At the last moment we were disappointed. 
 The demand for horses for more extensive tours, and for our 
 guide, who had had a previous engagement contingent upon 
 the arrival of a party, which had lost its connections by being 
 carried unexpectedly from Jaffa to Beyroot, compelled us to 
 take what was left. Our guide, therefore, was an ancient man, 
 Moses, a Jew of long — altogether too long — experience in 
 Palestine, Turkey, Armenia, and other parts of the oriental 
 world. He had a good reputation as a man, but was too nearly 
 wornout for the work. 
 
 With one exception the horses were such as in America 
 would be employed in carting ashes. Of these the guide had 
 the least bad. Dr. Bancroft the next, and the animal upon 
 which I was placed would by contrast have made the reputa- 
 tion of Don Quixote's " Rozinante" as a noble specimen of the 
 genus equus. He was an incomprehensible beast — not fat, 
 yet so broad across the back that my legs were much nearer 
 being at right angles with the trunk than parallel with each 
 other. The saddle thus projected the flaps in such a way that 
 they cut like knives into the calves. But this was not the 
 worst. The animal's motion was neither trot, canter, walk, 
 pace, nor "single foot; " the St. Vitus's dance alone can give 
 an adequate conception of it. Moreover, he stopped at inter- 
 vals of about two hundred yards. If whipped, he threw back 
 his ears, and pawed the ground. If not whipped, he looked 
 
396 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 around, as if to say, '*If you are pleased, I am; if not, help 
 yourself if you can." 
 
 The guide and Dr. Bancroft were soon out of sight. In 
 despair of overtaking them if 1 remained on the horse's back, I 
 dismounted to pull him along. He then refused to stand to 
 be mounted. I took him by the tail and by the bridle at the 
 same time, and jumped into the stirrup. This seemed to con- 
 fuse his understanding, for while he was gathering himself for 
 battle a posteriori, his attention was diverted to his head. The 
 next struggle was caused by his mutiny at a bridge. Over 
 this I led him, thinking of Mr. Pickwick's words under similar 
 circumstances: "It is like a dream, a hideous dream! The 
 idea of a man's walking about all day with a dreadful horse 
 that he cannot get rid of." By this time I felt that the only 
 thing left was to master that horse, and as relief to my feel- 
 ings, after I had succeeded in mounting again, I stood up in 
 the saddle and stimulated him. He made strenuous efforts to 
 unseat me, but, failing in this, started to run. Each leap 
 threatened to dislocate every joint in my body, but it took 
 only ten minutes of this misery to bring me in sight of the 
 guide and Dr. Bancroft. We held a council of war, and de- 
 cided that as the only man who was making money out of the 
 trip was Moses, he should trade horses. He did not in words 
 object, but, in a few minutes after he bestrode the animal, 
 gloomily observed to the doctor: "This horse will be the 
 death of me. " He was ' ' a vain thing for safetv, " and for travel 
 not "an unthinking horse," but one that understood himself 
 perfectly. 
 
 The road to Bethlehem is delightful; the distance not more 
 than seven miles. We went down into the valley of Gihon, 
 then up the hill toward the southwest. Here is the tree on 
 which Judas hanged himself I Our route then ran across an 
 elevated plateau where David defeated the Philistines. The 
 ascent is gradual; the air w^as clear and the sky as bright as 
 that of Egypt. Beside this road an old ruin existed, which 
 has recently been restored, and is declared to have been the 
 house of Simeon. 
 
 There is nothing so permanent in all Syria as wells, except 
 the rock tombs; indeed, Stanley makes the tombs less 
 
Bethlehem and the Convent of ^Iar Saba. 397 
 
 authentic than the wells. Accordingly, excellent authorities 
 believe that the well which we passed on that road is the spot 
 where the wise men saw the miraculous star in the east after 
 they departed from the king. 
 
 An amusing legend is that of the field of peas. It is to the 
 effect that Christ, passing along, asked a laborer what he was 
 sowing; he insolently replied, "Stones." The field, therefore, 
 brought forth stone peas, some of which are to be seen on 
 the spot — small, pea-shaped stones, of which millions of bush- 
 els can be found in certain localities in the United States. 
 
 By far the most interesting object is the Tomb of Rachel. 
 This is one of the few points where the probability of correct- 
 ness becomes almost a certainty. Rachel had come from 
 Bethel on her way to Bethlehem. Gen. xxxv, 16 says: 
 "There was but a little way to come to Ephrath." There her 
 child was born, and there she died, and "was buried in the 
 way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem." Jacob set a pillar upon 
 her grave; when the Pentateuch was written, that monument 
 was described as " the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day," 
 and the Jews through all their history so identified and 
 revered it. There has never been any other tradition. Jews, 
 Mohammedans, and Christians have united in the belief for a 
 thousand years, and no Jew goes to Palestine without visiting 
 this tomb, which was marked by a pyramid of stones. The only 
 doubt raised is because of a passage in Samuel which locates 
 the tomb of Rachel in the border of Benjamin. There is so 
 much uncertainty about border lines, and the statements in 
 Genesis are so explicit, that this does not overthrow the pre- 
 sumption of the truth of the tradition. 
 
 Bethlehem is on a long hill, twenty-five hundred and twent}'- 
 seven feet above the level of the sea, and there is great sim- 
 ilarity between its situation and that of Jerusalem, except that 
 the descent is more abrupt from the Holy City. The manu- 
 facture of rosaries, crosses, images, and other religious objects 
 is carried on extensively. We were constantly beset bj'' natives 
 with olive-wood rosaries strung above their heads and around 
 their necks and arms. 
 
 We are now at the scene of the beautiful story of Ruth, the 
 great-grandmother of David. It was to Bethlehem that Samuel 
 
398 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 was sent to make examination of the sons of Jesse to find 
 whom the Lord had chosen. Among these hills, near by, 
 David had kept his father's sheep, and there he slew the lion 
 and the bear. 
 
 The transcendent, unquestioned fact is that in Bethlehem 
 Christ was born. The scene of this event is supposed to be 
 within a mass of buildings known as the Church of the Nativity, 
 and the Latin, Greek, and Armenian convents. This series of 
 ecclesiastical edifices extends from west to east on the summit 
 of the hill; nor did I see while in Palestine so imposing a 
 spectacle of human creation. The Latin convent projects 
 from the church to the northeast, the Greek to the southeast, 
 and the Armenian to the southwest, while the village straggles 
 to the westward. 
 
 As we ascended the hill the venerable building towered like 
 a fortification. Justin Martyr, in the second century, speaks 
 of Christ's being born in a cavern near the village. Stables in 
 Palestine — a rocky country, where wood is scarce — were usually 
 caves or artificial excavations in the rocks. To this day it is 
 so wherever the configuration of the country is favorable. 
 Justin Martyr in the second, and Origen in the third century, 
 make the same observation, and all the Apocryphal gospels so 
 represent. 
 
 This, of all the existing local traditions of Palestine, Stanley 
 thinks, is the only one which indisputably reaches beyond the 
 time of Constantine. Here Constantine erected a magnificent 
 church, and the best critics maintain that the present church 
 is the original structure. Cedars of Lebanon were used in the 
 construction of the rafters, but in the time of Edward IV 
 they were repaired by the use of English oaks, given by the 
 king for the purpose. The presumption that this is the ori- 
 ginal church is strengthened by the fact that, from the Middle 
 Ages, in all the accounts given by pilgrims, there is "a re- 
 markable unanimity regarding its situation and architecture." 
 
 The church is simple in construction, ornamented by 
 mosaics, most of which are now imperfect, and embellished 
 with paintings from scriptural scenes, grand in effect, but 
 badly mutilated. The five rows of marble columns of the 
 Corinthian order are striking, and tradition alleges that they 
 
Bethlehem and the Coxvext of Mar Saba. 399 
 
 once formed part of Solomon's Temple at Jerusalem. This is 
 possibly true, because of the habit in the East of building 
 columns from famous monumental edifices into new structures. 
 
 Permission to use the nave is given to all sects, and for this 
 reason it is neglected as to adornment, but interesting because 
 " in all probability the most ancient monument of Christian 
 architecture in the world. " Beneath the great choir is the crypt. 
 By staircases we descend to the Chapel of the Nativity, and 
 the spot is indicated by a silver star set in the marble pave- 
 ment. This inscription is near : "-Hie de Virgine Maria Jesus 
 Christus A^atus est" (Here of the Virgin Mary Jesus Christ was 
 born). By three steps more we descended to the Chapel of the 
 Manger, and an old tradition is that the original wooden manger 
 was there discovered. It was supposed to be found and taken 
 by the Empress Helena to Rome, deposited in the Church of 
 St. Maria Maggiore, and at Christmas, with the authority of the 
 pope, it is exhibited to reverent and curious crowds. 
 
 All about were memorials of the Gospel history, and various 
 altars — one devoted to the Magi, another to the shepherds, 
 and another to Joseph — on the spot where they had adored 
 the Holy Child, or received divine commands. I relinquished 
 myself to the reverential emotions which the belief that I was 
 in the spot where the infant Saviour lay would naturally inspire 
 in the heart of a Christian. 
 
 The Chapel of the Tomb of St. Jerome receives much atten- 
 tion from Christian pilgrims of every sect. He is the most 
 eminent pilgrim to the cave of Bethlehem; "the only one of 
 the many hermits and monks from the time of Constantine to 
 the present day sheltered within its rocky sides, whose name 
 has traveled bevond the limits of the Holv Land." He came 
 from Rome to Syria, accompanied by Paula, a Roman lady, 
 and her daughter, and retired to this cell where he remained 
 alone for more than thirty years, producing letters, commen- 
 taries, and the translation of the Bible still used in the Latin 
 Church. In 420 he expired in this cell. Both Paula and her 
 daughter were eminent for learning and piety, the mother 
 becoming the head of a nunnery in Bethlehem, and dying 
 within its walls. 
 
 We ascended to the summits of the various monasteries, and 
 21 
 
400 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 enjoyed the dissimilar and beautiful views. The sole reason 
 whv there are not more traditional sites in the Holy Land is 
 that inventive genius cannot find names for them. They make 
 nothing of showing the house in which Joseph lived and had 
 his dream. 
 
 There is a tradition, which dates at least from the year 620, 
 concerning the place where the angels appeared to the shep- 
 herds. We found the field inclosed by a wall, within which 
 are some very fine olive trees. For centuries there was a 
 church and monastery here. The ruins remaining are sup- 
 posed to belong to the mediaeval Church of Gloria in Excelsis. 
 The Grotto of the Shepherds, in which they are supposed 
 to have dwelt, is fitted up as a church, and has been under 
 the control of the Greeks since the time of the Crusades. I 
 am sorry that there is not better authority for it, since the 
 situation would harmonize well with the narratives. Moses, 
 being a Hebrew of the Hebrews, had little to say; all he could 
 do was to point out the place and give the name by which it 
 is known. Obviously he did not believe there ever was any 
 such vision. At the same time he thought that Christ was 
 a Jew who was misunderstood by the people, and who failed 
 to comprehend himself. 
 
 We rode over the hills for about three hours to the Convent 
 of Mar Saba. After the first hour, from an elevated hill, we 
 took the last view of Bethlehem. Descending, we followed a 
 path gloomy and barren; but, like many other desolate pros- 
 pects, it was more terrible in the seeming than in the reality; 
 for on approach the roughest places became comparatively 
 smooth, the ascents and descents being gradual, and the path 
 proving wide enough for safety. There was absolutely no 
 population; not a human being to be seen hour after hour, 
 except the Bedouin escort whom we were obliged to em- 
 ploy; for in none of these excursions in the Holy Land is it 
 safe to go without an officer. Our Bedouin was physically 
 feeble, and carried the oldest specimen of a gun outside of 
 a museum of antiquities; he represented, however, the Turk- 
 ish government, and was a sufficient protection. 
 
 The Convent of ]\Iar Saba surpasses in weirdness anything 
 imaginable. Not amid the ruins of Karnak or Phil^e, at 
 
Convent of Mar Saba. 
 
Bethlehem and the Convent of Mar Saba. 403 
 
 the base or within the dark caverns of the Pyramids, was 
 the sensation so peculiar as here. Women are never admit- 
 ted. Years ago one accidentally passed the outer gate, caus- 
 ing more consternation than would have been produced by the 
 evil spirit. When ladies, ignorant of the rule, come with their 
 friends, they are obliged to pass the night in a tower which 
 stands upon a hill at some little distance. Above the gate 
 rises another tower where is stationed a watchman, who sur- 
 veys the expanse of mountains and ravines, on the alert to dis- 
 cern hostile approach. This precaution is necessary to this day. 
 
 One thousand three hundred years ago a settlement, known 
 by the peculiar name of a Laura, was established here by St. 
 Euthymius. Growing very wealthy, it was robbed from time 
 to time, beginning with the Persian hordes of Chosroes in 614, 
 which led to its being fortified; but it has been attacked 
 several times, and as lately as 1834. It is now under the 
 patronage of the Russian empire, and fifty years ago was en- 
 larged and restored. On announcing that we desired to re- 
 main over night, we were shown into a room capable of accom- 
 modating twelve persons. Fortunately there were no other 
 strangers. A good meal was served, though the fastidious 
 would have seen something to criticise in the not very cleanly 
 attire of the monks who waited upon us. 
 
 Human ingenuity never prepared another such place of abode. ■ 
 A series of houses has been constructed upon the ledges of 
 the rock, and from the lowest point it appears as though dove- 
 cots had been built in stories. Artificial battlements and but- 
 tresses have been made, the foundation and inner wall in every 
 case of natural rock. These are reached by labyrinths, pas- 
 sages, and small courtyards, and every spot is occupied by the 
 cells of the monks. "You see men walking upon these ledges 
 of rock, and turning into these holes in the wall; and you 
 look upon a little garden hanging in the air, as it seems, 
 with a solitary palm tree looking wonderingly down into the 
 chasm, in which are more buildings and chapels and cupo- 
 las." Sixty-five or seventy monks dwell in the convent, be- 
 sides a few lunatics, of whom they have charge. We visited all 
 the terraces and entered into the sanctuary, originally a grot- 
 to. Behind a grating were the skulls of martyrs slain by the 
 
404 Travels- i\ Three Continents. 
 
 Persians twelve hundred years ago. Moses, after conversation 
 with the monks, described the rules of the order. Some in- 
 variably arise to hold a service at 2 a. .m. They fast much of 
 the time, and when they eat have little besides vegetables. 
 Not a human being resides in the neighborhood; so these men, 
 deprived of the loving smile of wife, mother, daughter, sister, 
 live on year after year, grow old and die; but are fain to 
 make friends with the animal creation, taming the wild birds, 
 that fly over the hills, so that they come and eat from the 
 hands. The monks appeared to be industrious; every spot of 
 earth is cultivated; and the convent is famous for its fine figs 
 which, owing to the heat of the sun, ripen earlier than in the 
 vicinity of Jerusalem. In the night we heard the music, but 
 did not rise to attend their service. The librarv is famous, 
 but the key is kept by the patriarch, in Jerusalem, and the 
 monks do not have access to it. 
 
Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, and Bethaxy. 405 
 
 CHAPTHR XLIX. 
 The Dead Sea, The Jordan, Jericho, and Bethany. 
 
 Wilderness of Engedi — Tomb of Moses — Beauliful Views — Peculiarities of 
 the Dead Sea Explained — Pillars of Salt — The Jordan — Ancient Giigal — 
 Russian Pilgrims — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — Tower of David in Jeru- 
 salem. 
 
 At an early hour the next mornmg we began a ride of 
 five hours to the Dead Sea. The way lay along the valley 
 of the Kidron, several hundred feet precipitously beneath us. 
 After a time we made the ascent, and on reaching the summit 
 beheld the wilderness of Engedi stretched out before us. 
 The h6a.t was almost tropical, and more depressing than that 
 of Egypt. Down the long slope we traveled, meeting occa- 
 sionally a Bedouin who looked at us in a semi-savage way, and 
 in sight upf)n the hills were three or four of these wanderers 
 of the desert and the mountains. A mile and a half away to 
 the left of the road rises the minaret of " Neby Musa, the 
 Tomb of Moses." The Mohammedans pay no attention to 
 the Bible narrative, and assign the tomb of the leader of Israel 
 to this spot, to which they come annually in multitudes, but 
 no Christian or Jew accompanies them. 
 
 As we proceeded wonderful views burst upon us. Moab, 
 which we had seen from the summit of the Mount of Olives, 
 now appeared much nearer; the long valley of the Jordan, the 
 region in which is Mount Nebo, and the supposed peak of 
 Pisgah were in plain sight. Without these views it would 
 have been tiresome to ride so long with the Dead Sea appar- 
 ently but a few hundred yards from us — an optical illusion, 
 which was increased by the irregular surface of the country. 
 
 One pervaded with the prevalent ideas concerning Sodom 
 and Gomorrah, on examining the Bible, would be astonished 
 to find how little there is to support the notion that the Dead 
 Sea was formed by the catastrophe that swallowed up those 
 two cities, and that their ruins are submerged beneath its 
 waters. 
 
4o6 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 We could survey almost the entire length of the Dead Sea 
 from the shore, but obtained still better views from the sum- 
 mits of the mountains. It is about forty-six miles long, 
 and a little over ten miles wide. It is now known that the 
 level of the Dead Sea is 1,293 ^^^^ below the surface of the 
 Mediterranean, but up to sixty years ago no one knew that it 
 was below it at all. The Dead Sea at its greatest depth is 
 1,310 feet. Since Jerusalem is 2,494 feet above the level of 
 the Mediterranean, that city, not more than fifteen miles away, 
 is 3,787 feet above where we stood. 
 
 The credit of resolving most of the doubts and difificulties 
 and dissipating many of the superstitions formerly connected 
 with this abyss belongs to the United States, which in 1848 
 authorized an exploring expedition commanded by Lieutenant 
 Lynch. He conveyed two metal boats from Acre to the Sea 
 of Tiberias, and in them his party went down the Jordan, and 
 spent twentj^-two days cruising around the Dead Sea. 
 
 In his report Lieutenant Lynch says that during a storm the 
 heavy waters, nearly a sixth heavier than that of the ocean, 
 "lashed the sides of his boats like hammers, " but the sub- 
 sidence after the storm was much more rapid than of the 
 waves in other waters. 
 
 B}^ the facts w'hich they established it is eas}' to explain 
 most of the peculiarities which before were perplexing. As 
 the whole volume of the water of the Jordan, estimated at six 
 million tons daily, is poured into it, and the sea has no outlet, 
 the evaporation is extraordinarily rapid, and leaves the water 
 full of mineral substances, especially salt, which is dissolved 
 from the bank. About a quarter of the bulk of the sea con- 
 sists of minerals, half being salt, which is extracted and sold in 
 the markets of Jerusalem and elsewhere. The same process 
 has been going on for ages at the Great Salt Lake in Utah. 
 
 The ancient conceit that it is death to swim in the Dead Sea 
 has been exploded. Dr. Robinson could swim nowhere else in 
 salt or fresh water, but here found no difficulty in swimming 
 or floating. A more modern fancy, that it is impossible to sink 
 therein, has been dissipated by the experience of many travelers. 
 Professor Henry M. Harman, a man of gigantic proportions, 
 states in his Egypt and the Holy Land that he found no difficulty 
 
H 
 3- 
 a 
 
 D 
 re 
 iu 
 o- 
 
 W 
 a 
 
 iv 
 
 
 •><■ 
 
 f!^«*/( 
 
 f4< 
 
 \:" 
 
 % 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 ■ ■ i. 
 
 '^ 
 
 ''-? 
 
 1 
 
 1 'jt 
 
 ! 
 
 ■ft 
 
 I . 
 
 4% 
 
Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, and Bethany. 409 
 
 in sinking. Travelers often bathe in the Dead Sea, and Dr. 
 Bancroft imitated the Mohammedan custom of washing his 
 feet in its waters, but I was content to immerse mv hands. 
 The water left a peculiarly oily feeling. It is not true that 
 the Dead Sea is the saltest water in the world. According to 
 the scale given by Stanley, the purest of all water is rain 
 water; then fresh- water lakes, the Baltic Sea, Sea of Azov; then 
 the ocean, then the Mediterranean, then the Caspian and Aral, 
 then the Dead Sea, and last the Lakes of Elton and Urumia. 
 
 The Dead Sea contains neither shells nor coral, and fish 
 placed in it soon die, though it is alleged that some inferior or- 
 ganizations can be found. The representation that birds die 
 if they attempt to fly over it is incorrect. Snipe, partridges, 
 ducks, and nightingales live along its shores. The sides of 
 the basin being perpendicular, the heat of the sun is almost 
 unendurable, and there are few flowers or trees. 
 
 The wildness of the region, the desolation of the shores, 
 the greenish hue of the water contrasting with the blue of the 
 more distant prospect, made a picture in viewing which one 
 might easily oscillate between sensations of loneliness and 
 misery and of brightness and beauty. Isolate the sea from 
 its gloomy surroundings and it would rival the most beautiful 
 lake in the world. The silver sheen in the morning light as 
 we had seen it for hours in our early ride from the convent was 
 transformed in the middle of the day into burnished gold; but, 
 because of their peculiar juxtaposition, not the slightest reflec- 
 tion from the surrounding mountains was depicted upon the 
 waters. 
 
 Along the shores are numerous pillars of salt; in fact, they 
 are continually forming in different grotesque shapes. Lieuten- 
 ant Lynch says: "Everything stated in the Bible about the 
 Dead Sea and the Jordan we believe to be fully verified by our 
 observations. The inference from the Bible, that this entire 
 chasm was a plain, sunk and overwhelmed by the wrath of God, 
 seems to be sustained by the extraordinary character of our 
 soundings. The bottom of the sea consists of two submerged 
 plains, an elevated and a depressed one; the former thirteen 
 and the latter thirteen hundred feet below the surface." I 
 also believe all that the Bible affirms concerning the destruc- 
 
4IO 'I'rAVKLS IX 'I'llKKE CONTINENTS. 
 
 tion of Sodom and Gomorrah; but know of no passage which 
 either asserts or intimates that tlie Dead Sea was formed by 
 the catastrophe which overwhelmed the Cities of the Plain. 
 The probable and generally accepted hypothesis is that these 
 cities stood in the plain of the Jordan, on the north of the Dead 
 Sea; that the valley is a part of a prehistoric upheaval and 
 depression ; and that the sea and the Jordan are what they 
 were when the first inhabitants of the world gazed upon 
 them. 
 
 Having remained on the shore, listening to the reminiscen- 
 ces of Moses and endeavoring to identify the mountains, 
 until sufficiently rested, we remounted and began a fatiguing 
 journey across the plains to the Jordan. The mounds and 
 little hills for a considerable distance from the water, in- 
 crusted with pure salt, are white and dazzling. The river 
 was easily identified by the foliage along its shores, illustrating 
 many biblical references. A grove of trees was pointed out by 
 Moses as a famous bathing place for pilgrims. We could perceive 
 the reason for the scriptural figure, the '' swellings of Jordan," 
 for the current is so rapid as to make it dangerous to bathe or 
 attempt to swim. Many have there been drowned as a result 
 of recklessness, among them the brother of a distinguished 
 American college president, then a young man of twenty-one, 
 who, disregarding caution, leaped into the river. 
 
 The feet of pilgrims have worn numerous paths, and the scene 
 was suggestive of striking incidents in Bible history. In this 
 vicinity Lot saw the plain of the Jordan, and it was even as 
 a garden of the Lord. Near here is probably the spot where 
 the children of Israel, after their forty years' wanderings, 
 came across dry-shod, "right over against Jordan." Nor 
 was it far away that Elijah took his mantle, wrapped it 
 together, and smote the waters, so that he and Elisha went 
 over on dry ground. It was in this wilderness that John 
 the Baptist preached,' and to him went out great multitudes, 
 as he cried, "Repent ye, for the kingdom of heaven is at 
 hand." Here he baptized them in the Jordan, they con- 
 fessing their sins. Here, too, our Lord was baptized of 
 John. There is a concurrence of traditions locating most of 
 these events in the immediate neighborhood. 
 
a> 
 o 
 
 3 
 
Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, and Bethany. 413 
 
 A lofty and pi-ecipitous lull, which we saw fur hours as we 
 journeyed, has for eight centuries been celebrated as the scene 
 of Christ's temptation and forty days' fast. We did not climb 
 it, but could almost discern the caverns and hermitages. It 
 was peculiarly adapted to anchorites, and from early ages they 
 resorted thither, dwelling in solitude and imitating their Lord, 
 without the reason for it that he had. Incredible stories are 
 told of impossible fasts and almost miraculous longevity. 
 
 Thousands of Greek Christians resort to a certain place and 
 bathe in the river, while the Latins go farther to the south. We 
 bathed our feet in the Jordan, and refreshed ourselves under 
 •the shade of the oleanders and other flowering bushes and 
 trees; after luncheon, beginning the journey to Jericho, mak- 
 ing our way across the plain to the modern town of Reha. 
 This is the site of ancient Gilgal and modern Jericho. 
 
 Here the Israelites pitched their camp, set up the twelve 
 stones, and celebrated their first passover in the Promised 
 Land; and here were circumcised the children born in the 
 wilderness; Saul was made king, and Elisha received Naaman 
 the Syrian. 
 
 The village is a wretched place, full of thieves and vermin, and 
 infamous for all kinds of iniquities. There is nothing left of 
 ancient Jericho. We spent the night in a decent hotel, re- 
 cently erected, resembling the ordinary two-story frame build- 
 ings in this country. 
 
 At sunset the landscape was magnificent ; the waste of 
 mountains over which we had traveled, the Dead Sea, the 
 plain, and the range of mountains beyond us, being gloriously 
 illuminated. 
 
 From Jericho we began the journey to Jerusalem, a route 
 famous many years ago for difficulty and danger; but a 
 Wallachian princess, having met with an accident, gave a 
 thousand pounds for the making of a new road, that the 
 pilgrims from her country might not fall over the precipices. 
 Therefore the road is now perfectly safe for pedestrians and 
 for horses. Carriages, however, of the usual sort, could not 
 traverse it, though we saw^ a queer-shaped vehicle dragged 
 slowly along. Even this could not have been done by any 
 temporary expedient until these changes were made. 
 
^14 Tkavkls IX TuRFE Continents. 
 
 We rode for two or three hours, ineetinti tourists going from 
 Jerusalem, and- falling in with several hundreds of Russian pil- 
 grims who had been down to bathe in the Jordan, and were 
 toiling back to the sacred city. They were dressed in the 
 extremely hot and uncomfortable attire of Russia, and were 
 frequently overcome by the heat so as to fall upon the ground 
 and breathe like panting animals. At the khan where we 
 took dinner they were lying about like hod carriers, at the 
 rest hour, on the hottest days of summer. 
 
 We passed another old khan which is the traditional scene 
 of the partible of the good Samaritan. 
 
 Bethany is one of the points universally accepted. Its 
 name — House of Poverty — is supposed to have been derived 
 from its situation on the borders of the desert, though somiC 
 claim that lepers formerly dwelt there. It was at Bethany 
 that Simon the leper lived, in whose house the contents of the 
 alabaster box were poured upon the head of the Saviour; and 
 there resided Mary and Martha. The modern Arabic name of 
 the place is derived from Lazarus. There are only forty or 
 fiftv miserable houses, and the inhabitants are Mohammedans. 
 The place is picturesque because of the number of olive, 
 mango, and fig trees interspersed among the buildings. The 
 Tomb of Lazarus attracts the attention of visitors, and some 
 recent travelers have been convinced that this is the genuine 
 tomb. I did not see anything to suggest even presumption 
 that it was the original place of burial of one who lived and 
 died more than a thousand years ago. 
 
 But this is certain, that Christ must "have come up from 
 Jericho by' this route." 
 
 Having again enjoyed the view from the Mount of Olives, 
 we descended its long slope to the valley of the Kidron, and 
 on Saturday entered the city by St. Stephen's Gate. Moses 
 acted strangely as we drew^ near the gate, and at last dis- 
 mounted and asked us if we would have the kindness to lead 
 his horse into the city. On asking the reason, he answered: 
 "I am a Jew. For me to be seen entering on this day with a 
 party of travelers would affect my standing among my people." 
 To gratify him w^e led his horse into the city, w^hile he, with 
 an air of demure piety, entered on foot. To do this did not 
 
w 
 
 
 ? 
 
 CD 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 :r 1 
 
 .» ■ 
 
 
 p 
 
 
 
 ^■ 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 ^ 
 
Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, and Bethany. 417 
 
 disturb him, but to hcive otliers know that he did so — he was 
 too "conscientious " for that. 
 
 The only point of importance in ancient Jerusalem not yet 
 described is the Tower of David. It consists of five towers, 
 formerly surrounded by a moat, and forms part of the citadel. 
 Owing to its position it affords a comprehensive view. Mr. 
 Gilman, the United States consul, thinks that the foundation 
 was laid by the Jebusites, and that after David stormed the 
 fortress he erected this tower. The ancient foundation, which 
 rises to a height of thirty-nine feet, consists of stones of such 
 size as to remind one of the Pyramids. In the various sieges 
 to which Jerusalem has been exposed, the upper parts have 
 often been destroyed and rebuilt. 
 
 Turkish soldiers were upon guard, and we were detained a 
 considerable time before even the consul of the United States 
 could secure admission to such points as he thought it desira- 
 ble to show us. But the obstacles were finally overcome; we 
 ascended to the summit, visited the interior of the citadel, and 
 saw many evidences of the antiquity of the remains. If it 
 were built by David, or even by Herod, of course it might 
 have been standing when Christ was in Jerusalem. 
 
 Along the east side is Zion Street, which conducts us to 
 Zion Gate on the apex of the ridge of Zion. Unquestionably 
 we are now where David built his house, and where the tent 
 was pitched for the Ark of God. Close by the gate is a build- 
 ing known as the Palace of Caiaphas, now a cemetery for 
 Armenian patriarchs. Here tradition becomes ludicrous. 
 They pretend to show the pillar on which the cock crew to 
 warn Peter! That the tomb of David is near, there can be 
 no reasonable doubt. Nehemiah says that the sepulcher of 
 David was opposite a pool ; and the supposed tomb of David 
 stands opposite the Pool of Gihon. Peter says: "Men and 
 brethren, let me freely speak unto you of the patriarch David, 
 that he is both dead and buried, and his sepulcher is with us 
 unto this day." Josephus also refers to it. Mohammedans 
 and earlier Christians unite with the Jews in regarding the 
 spot as identified; but though the tomb of David must have 
 been in this vicinity, in regard to its exact site there is much 
 ground for dispute. 
 
4i8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 Peculiarities of Modern Palestine. 
 
 Jews — Greek Church — Visil to the Patriarch — Russian Church and Pilgrims 
 — Armenians — Copts — Abyssinians — Roman Catholics — Protestants — Places 
 of Amusement — Society — Sect of the "German Temple" — Lunatics — The 
 "American Colony" — Lepers and Leprosy. 
 
 Modern Jerusalem is a study in human nature. There the 
 Jews make an unfavorable impression. ^V'ith due allowance 
 for a minority there for business purposes or from religious 
 considerations, they are filthy, superstitious, and fanatical, 
 many being practically paupers. In the Polish synagogue I 
 saw ancient men at their early service. Their bowlings were 
 dissonant; hair and beards unkempt; skin clammy and cadav- 
 erous. In the intervals of reading they took snuff, exhibiting 
 large capacity, the result of decades of assiduous practice; but 
 failing to absorb all, their hideous aspect was even more de- 
 filed. This was the lowest point, as respects worship, which I 
 touched. Matters are better in some of the synagogues. 
 Thousands, many of them being sent by charity, have come to 
 Jerusalem solely to die in the Holy Land. An excellent sys- 
 tem has been devised for taking care of them. So soon as a 
 Jew arrives he is registered in the synagogues of his own 
 nationality, and funds are collected throughout the world for 
 the support of these poor Jews. Sir Moses Montefiore con- 
 structed a systein of tenement houses, which are rented at 
 low rates to Jews; and the Rothschilds have built hospitals 
 for them. 
 
 How much importance is to be attached to the supposed 
 rapid return of the Jews to Palestine? Those whose views of 
 Scripture prophecy lead them to believe that the Holy Land 
 will finally be occupied exclusively by Jews find encourage- 
 ment in this tendency. But my inc[uiries led me to think that, 
 in view of the character of the Jews migrating thither, nothing 
 of significance is indicated. 
 
Peculiarities of Modern Palestine. 419 
 
 The Greek Church is the most powerful body of Christians 
 in Syria. They have many churches, schools, monasteries, 
 and other institutions. The convents of St. Theodore, St. 
 Spiridon, St. Michael, St. Katharine, Caralombos, John the 
 Baptist, Demetrius, St. Nicholas, and Spirito, will accommo- 
 date three thousand pilgrims; several five hundred each, and 
 the rest from fifty to three hundred. I visited two of these: 
 no one need starve, and pilgrims are not fastidious. 
 
 Dr. Bancroft and I called upon the patriarch, who is of im- 
 posing presence and received us with honor; Father Steph- 
 anos, who former!}^ lived in the United States and speaks 
 English well, acting as interpreter. It was impossible to 
 make the patriarch realize that Dr. Bancroft is only a distant 
 relative of the historian George Bancroft, with whom he was 
 determined to confound him. The conversation was formal; 
 the tones of the patriarch as deep and heavy as the pedal 
 notes of an organ, and his utterance correspondingly slow. 
 
 Large sums of money have been expended within a few 
 years by the Russian government for the Russo-Greek Church 
 in Jerusalem and other parts of Syria. Outside the wall is an 
 elaborate system of buildings and a fine church. How many 
 thousand pilgrims could be accommodated there I could not 
 ascertain ; but I attended service in their church on my last 
 Sabbath in the city. 
 
 The Russian pilgrims, in outward demonstration, are de- 
 vout; and their natural expression being as stolid as that of a 
 bronze statue, the effect is intensified. So liberal are they, and 
 so many taxes does the Church put upon them, that, if not re- 
 strained, they would give away all the money they have, and be 
 unable to get back to Russia. On arriving they report to the 
 Russian consul, who takes away from them enough money to 
 pay their expenses home. When their pilgrimage is over 
 usually they have nothing but that on which to depend. 
 
 I visited the Armenian monastery behind the Tower of David, 
 near the Zion Gate. It is a large institution in which live 
 several hundred monks and brethren, and which can entertain 
 twelve hundred pilgrims. The patriarch resides in the monas- 
 tery. We caught a glimpse of him passing through one of the 
 chapels. Priests can be distinguished from the Greeks by 
 
^2o Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 long pointed hoods, the others wearing round caps, not dis- 
 similar to the traveling caps used in this country, but higher in 
 the crown. 
 
 The old Armenian Church has a character peculiar to itself; 
 standing midwa}^ between the Greek and Latin Churches, but 
 maintaining its independent position ever since the sixth cen- 
 tury, when it practically cut itself off from Rome. Armenian 
 ecclesiastics are a fine-tempered, dignified, exceedingly gentle- 
 manly body of men, with little of the stoic in their compo- 
 sitions, or natural inclination to monkish forms. The services 
 are conducted with dignity and splendor, though the musical 
 part is not equal to that of the Russian Church. 
 
 The Copts have a monastery and chapels, and jurisdiction 
 over a part of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Avhere two 
 Coptic priests are continually shut in to conduct services 
 night and day. 
 
 The Abyssinians have a monastery near the Church of the 
 Holy Sepulcher, but, not satisfied with their treatment and 
 position, for several years they have been erecting a church 
 behind the Russian establishments, and outside the wall. It 
 occupies an imposing position. 
 
 I had noticed in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher a digni- 
 fied-looking priest performing his devotions. He was so 
 dark that I made inquiry concerning his nativity, and found 
 that he was an Abyssinian. On a visit to the new edifices I 
 met him coming out of the dormitory, and induced him by 
 signs to show me about the buildings, not dreaming that he 
 was the head of the establishment. When I informed Dr. 
 Bancroft of the visit he proposed another. This time we were 
 accompanied by an interpreter, and I had an interesting con- 
 versation with the representative of, perhaps, the most pecu- 
 liar form of Christianity in the world. 
 
 The Abyssinians are but a half-civilized people. When we 
 had entered Nubia we were separated from their country by but 
 a comparatively short journey. Accounts of Abyssinian Chris- 
 tianity by travelers represent it as intolerant, and formal to an 
 astonishing degree. 
 
 They are required to fast even oftener than the Greeks, the 
 number of regular days being more than two out of three in 
 
Peculiarities of Modern Palestine. 421 
 
 the whole year, besides special fasts, and they have to abstain 
 from drink as well as food, but have plenty of feasts. Cere- 
 monies on funeral occasions and marriages are barbarous. 
 
 The ecclesiastical connection is with the Copts of Egypt, 
 the chief hierarch being elected at Alexandria. They call 
 him an Abuna; next in importance are bishops; then the 
 Alaka, who takes care of the money; and finally priests and 
 deacons. Their services are so elaborate that it requires 
 twenty priests and deacons for one church. The head priest 
 told me that the war between Abyssinia and Italy prevented 
 their getting funds, and in consequence of this they cannot 
 complete the building, and suffer many privations. They 
 seemed devout, and the one with whom we talked was very 
 gentlemanly. 
 
 Before leaving we drank with him a glass of sherbet, a 
 sweet, unintoxicating fluid, resembling raspberry syrup. 
 Coffee also was served. An exciting incident of the conver- 
 sation was his account of being captured a few years before, 
 while endeavoring to reach Abyssinia, to make a statement to 
 the king of the progress of the enterprise. The interpreter, 
 who had often heard the Abyssinians perform, and who was a 
 Catholic, declared that they were a barbarous people, and 
 would strike the floor with their staves, and howl at certain 
 parts of the service. 
 
 Roman Catholics are increasing in Jerusalem, but are infe- 
 rior in numbers and power either to the orthodox Greeks or 
 the Russians. The Franciscan monastery occupies a command- 
 ing situation, and the services conducted by the Latins are 
 performed with more than their usual attention to details. The 
 absence of any one government disposed to appropriate large 
 funds to maintain the honor of the Church in Jerusalem ac- 
 counts for their inferior position. It is an occasion for won- 
 der that the Vatican, with its immense receipts, does not pay 
 more attention to Jerusalem. 
 
 Protestantism is doing little in the city, though it is the seat 
 of a bishopric. Theoretically this bishopric is supported half 
 by Prussia and half by England. There have been three in- 
 cumbents: Bishop Alexander, Bishop Gobat, and the present 
 Bishop Blythe. We were introduced to Bishop Blythe by our 
 
422 Travkls in Three Continents. 
 
 consul, who altendecl his services, and learned that it is a 
 bishopric of no special importance. 
 
 Christ Church, nearly opposite the Tower of David, on 
 Mount Zion, is a fine building. There are various schools 
 supported by the naission, one in which the services are en- 
 tirely in Arabic. The funds of the mission have much to do 
 with supporting the outward show of w'ork. The Germans 
 sustain several orphanages and a fine hospital under the charge 
 of the deaconesses of Kaiserswerth, similar to that already de- 
 scribed. 
 
 There appear to be in the holy city very few places of 
 amusement, of the kind ordinarily found. Society is divided 
 into cliques. Some of the missions are battlefields; charges 
 are bandied about against members, and scandal is afloat. Of 
 course, in a general statement of this kind, allowance must be 
 made for exceptions. There, as everywhere, scandal makes 
 notoriety, while private virtue is unnoticed : yet the conver- 
 sations I had led me to think that there is more backbiting 
 and retailing of personal gossip among the foreign residents-of 
 Jerusalem than in any other city of its size. 
 
 One of the Protestant colonies is near Jaffa. It is twenty- 
 three years old, founded by the A\'urtemberg sect of the "Ger- 
 man Temple." They hold a peculiar doctrine, based on the 
 prophecies, that Christians are obliged to settle in Palestine. 
 
 In 1866 an American colony, led by .one Adams, settled 
 there. The majority were sincere Christians, deceived and 
 swindled by fanatical leaders and their dishonest employees. 
 Their hardships were equal to those endured by the early 
 settlers of Massachusetts, and incredible sufferings, followed 
 by many deaths, occurred. When the Quaker Cifv visited 
 Jaffa, it benevolently took away the starving people to Egypt, 
 whence they were helped back to America. Rollo Floyd, the 
 guide, is one of the survivors. 
 
 Lunatics come to Jerusalenj from all parts of the world. One 
 was in' the habit for years of walking about carrying a heavy 
 cross. A woman came with the revelation that Christ was to 
 descend to the Mount of Olives, and she was to make the first 
 cup of tea for him; several times she ascended the mount for 
 the purpose. Her lunacy now is of a mild form. 
 
Peculiarities of Modern Palestine. 425 
 
 A conspicuous household of an eccentric character now ex- 
 isting in Palestine is known as the American colony. It con- 
 sists of a number of persons, chiefly from Chicago, who went 
 there some years ago, under the leadership of Mr. Spofford 
 and his wife. We spent a Sabbath evening at their residence, 
 listening to their singing, and conversing with them concern- 
 ing their principles. From some points of view they make an 
 excellent impression, being active in benevolent work, self-de- 
 nying, sweet in spirit, and having unusual facility for securing 
 the affections of their beneficiaries. 
 
 Their singing is charming, their spirit devout and trustful, 
 and their bearing toward each other not such as to suggest 
 anything evil; but it requires only a fair measure of discernment 
 to see that a dangerous fanaticism lies beneath the attractive sur- 
 face, which will make impossible the permanent success of the 
 colony and prevent the fulfillment of the enthusiastic hopes 
 which originally inspired it. They act upon the faith cure, 
 anti-medicine theory, and the number of deaths since the 
 colony was founded is considerably in excess of the average 
 number of persons dying of the same age in an ordinary 
 society. They eschew matrimony, and are theoretically Shak- 
 ers. They ;ilso profess to be guided in all particulars by 
 direct revelation from God. Financially they have been in 
 difficulty so often that only the interposition of the American 
 consuls has prevented their being dispossessed; but they claim 
 to have property enough in the United States to pay all bills, 
 which property they allege is kept back by relatives on the 
 ground that they are insane. Some who have recently joined 
 the society obviously dwell in the borderlajid between sanity 
 and mental aberration. 
 
 I am glad that Jerusalem is under the control of the Turks 
 rather than that of the Jews, or of the Greek or Latin Chris- 
 tians. The Jews would care little for Christian antiquities, the 
 Greeks and Latins would be exclusive, the Mohammedans are 
 impartial, and their forces often needed to suppress disturb- 
 ances between rival sects of degenerate Christians in the very 
 precincts of the sacred places. I went away thinking more of 
 the new than of the old Jerusalem, but abundantly repaid for 
 
 the visit. 
 22 
 
426 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Jerusalem lepers arc almost ubiquitous on account of their 
 habit of sitting by gates and in thoroughfares begging. Their 
 horrible aspect fortunately defies description, while the piercing 
 cry, "Leprous I leprous 1 1 leprous!!!" must echo for months 
 in the memory of every traveler. Some are blind, and with 
 their faces upturned toward the sun, the last vestige of the 
 eye gone, arms, hands, and necks covered with hideous sores, 
 they excite pity mingled with disgust. 
 
 Hospitals have been built, but they will not stay in them if 
 they can avoid it, preferring to beg and to enjoy the liberty of 
 travel and domestic life. Different views have been held as to 
 whether modern leprosy is identical with that described in the 
 Bible. 
 
 An attack of modern leprosy is preceded for some months 
 by languor, chills, shivering, and irregular attacks of fever. 
 The spots upon the skin, generally the first visible symptoms, 
 are reddish and rapidly pushed outward by dark lumps, which 
 in time form clusters' "resembling bunches of grapes." This 
 is followed by general deterioration of the tissues. Sight, 
 hearing, and speech are interfered with, and last of all come 
 dreadful festering sores. These from time to time heal and 
 appear elsewhere. There is another sort called " smooth lep- 
 rosy," in which the patches are inflamed, but do not swell. 
 Such is the vital tenacity, however, that many of these 
 horrible cases linger on from ten to twenty-five years. The 
 disease is generally hereditary, and the children of lepers are 
 usually attacked by it; yet I visited a quarter where they live 
 together and marry, and are thus perpetuating this frightful 
 scourge. 
 
 The disease is spreading throughout the world, and English 
 magazines have of late been considering it. Sir Morell 
 Mackenzie had an article in the Nineteenth Century on the 
 "Dreadful Revival of Leprosy." The New York Academy of 
 Medicine discussed the subject, and a distinguished phy- 
 sician and traveler gave an account of what he had seen in 
 various parts of this continent and in the Sandwich Islands. 
 He considers that there are millions of lepers; shows how the 
 Chinese took the disease into the Sandwich Islands about forty 
 years ago, and declares that some also carried it to Australia 
 
Peculiarities of Modern Palestine. 427 
 
 and California. According to an official report there are one 
 hundred and thirty-five thousand lepers in India. 
 
 About twenty-five years ago the London College of Phy- 
 sicians decided that the disease is ncjt contagious, and not 
 necessarily hereditary; but Sir Morell Mackenzie denies both 
 propositions, as do other eminent authorities, all of whom 
 appear to agree in thinking it incurable. 
 
428 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAIMTR LI. 
 Leaving Jerusalem. 
 
 Descnption of the Caravan — Shafut — Ramallah — El-Bireh — Bethel — Ai — A 
 Slave Lost — Robbers' Glen — Caravan of Camels — A Night of Storm and 
 Terror at Sinjil. 
 
 The time had now come to depart from Jerusalem. We 
 designed to visit every sacred spot in the manner best adapted 
 to allow close examination, vivid impression, and the greatest 
 amount of familiarity with the people and country. Our 
 preparations took some days. The first essential was a drag- 
 oman, who selected a cook with one or two assistants, a 
 waiter, a muleteer, and several subordinates; six mules and 
 four horses. Our tent was large, supplied with iron bed- 
 steads, good mattresses, a table, washbasin, Persian rugs, 
 and a partition which transformed the front part into a dining 
 room and parlor. There were other tents for the men. The 
 tents with their poles and cords, stove, fuel, food, furniture, 
 bedsteads, etc., had to be carried upon mules. 
 
 Our dragoman, Selim, who proved to be guide, philosopher, 
 and friend, was the supreme authority. The time for breakfast 
 was fixed each night on retiring, and half an hour before it was 
 ready we were aroused. Before we had finished dressing, break- 
 fast was announced, the men began to take down all the tents 
 but our own, and while the cook, his helper, and the waiter were 
 washing the dishes, everything else was made ready for an 
 early start. Luncheon was put up, and the dragoman, ac- 
 companied by one man and a mule, went with us on our 
 various tours of exploration, while the rest of the caravan 
 went by the directest route to the spot agreed upon for the 
 camp. We usually rested from one to two hours at the lunch- 
 ing place, and found — unless the journey for the day was very 
 long — the tents pitched and dinner being prepared on arriving 
 in the evening. 
 
 We had been warned that we were starting rather too early 
 
Leaving Jerusalem. 429 
 
 in the season, and wuuld be likely to encounter severe storms. 
 The " former rain " of the iiible occurs late in October and 
 early in November; the "latter rain" falls in March and 
 April. But my experience has not been favorable to post- 
 poning the starting on long journeys by sea or land on account 
 of weather. 
 
 At nine o'clock on Monday morning our cavalcade, nearly a 
 hundred yards long, was formed; the dragoman riding at the 
 head, and Dr. Bancroft and i immediately following. W'e 
 had learned that three tourists had started in advance of us, 
 without tents, having only a dragoman and intending to lodge 
 at night at the khans and convents. Drops of rain soon com- 
 pelled us to cover ourselves with rubber blankets and coats 
 procured in anticipation of a storm. While attempting to 
 make this change the wind rose to the proportions of a bliz- 
 zard, and it was with extreme dit^culty that we kept our seats. 
 Fortunately the clouds were high, so that the view of Jerusa- 
 lem and the surrounding country was not seriously obscured. 
 We were now above the city and could clearly see its position 
 and relation to the Mount of Olives, to Bethlehem and the 
 Jaffa road, and to other features of the country. 
 
 The road descending rapidly, we saw Jerusalem no more. 
 Following the caravan route, we rode due north, and soon 
 reached Shafut, built of fine old materials, the ruins of former 
 fortifications and houses. It is believed by the best authori- 
 ties to be the ancient Gibeah, where was committed the fright- 
 ful crime that almost caused the annihilation of the tribe of 
 Benjamin. It was here that the seven sons of Saul were 
 hanged, and that afflicted Rizpah sustained her unparalleled 
 vigil. 
 
 Ancient villages and ruins of walls were numerous. In- 
 stead of farmhouses scattered over the cultivated plain, as in 
 the countries with which we are familiar, insecurity of life and 
 property is so great, on account of wandering bands of 
 marauders, that the people dwell, as in former times, in 
 villages; and only the houses of watchmen can be seen upon 
 the plains or in the fields. 
 
 Ramallah, at a little distance from the road, is inhabited 
 chiefly by Christians. Both the Greeks and Latins have 
 
430 Travkls in Three Continents. 
 
 monasteries there, where travelers can be entertained, and the 
 Protestant missionaries keep a school. 
 
 We tarried first at El-Bireh, identified with the Bible 
 Beeroth. There has been a tradition for some centuries that 
 this is the spot where Joseph and Mary, when they were de- 
 parting from Jerusalem, first noticed that Jesus was not in 
 their company. It is certain that they were traveling by this 
 route. 
 
 Half an hour later we reached Bethel. The very huts of 
 the people are built out of materials plainly used in edifices 
 in ancient times. Sitting on the wall of an old cistern, built 
 in a costly and careful manner, we talked of the wonderful 
 events which had taken place at Bethel. Here Abraham 
 reared his altar and called upon the name of the Lord; here 
 Jacob took the stones for his pillow, lay down to sleep, and 
 saw the angels ascending and descending upon the ladder. 
 He changed the name of the place from Luz to Bethel, " the 
 house of God." Here Jeroboam set up the golden calf, as 
 described in the First and Second Book of Kings. Says a 
 writer: "Here or hereabouts there came forth two she bears 
 out of the wood, and tare the forty arid two children who 
 scoffed at Elisha." The modern name of Bethel is Betin. 
 Only about four hundred persons now live there. 
 
 The pond, of which the spring is in the center inclosed in a 
 circular basin, is one hundred and five yards long and seventy- 
 two wide, the whole inclosed in solid masonry. The view of 
 the undulating valley was beautiful, now and then glorified 
 by rays of sunlight piercing the heavy clouds which had hung 
 dark over the mountains and plains all the morning. 
 
 Within sight of Bethel is Ai, which Joshua besieged with 
 thirty thousand mighty men of valor, but so strong was the 
 place that this force was not able to conquer it without the 
 use of stratagem. A shrewd subterfuge it was, having been 
 intentionally paralleled by several of the greatest generals of 
 the world: " And Joshua and all Israel made as if they were 
 beaten before them, and fled by the way of the wilderness." 
 The inhabitants of Ai rushed forth to pursue, but an ambush 
 provided for the emergency arose and entered the forsaken 
 city. 
 
Leaving Jerusalem. 431 
 
 For a while after departing from Bethel the route was toil- 
 some, but like most regions in Palestine, amazing desolation 
 leads by constant surprises to equally astonishing fertility. 
 Where there is no irrigation the sun's fierce heat makes the 
 land but a heap of ashes; but the same sun, with water to cool 
 its parching rays, reproduces the Garden of Eden in every 
 valley and on every hill, where even a thin covering of soil 
 affords a place for the seed of the sower or the germs of life 
 carried by birds and winds. A land of vineyards and or- 
 chards was before us, illustrating the blessings pronounced 
 upon Joseph: "The precious things of heaven, for the dew, 
 and for the deep that coucheth beneath, and for the precious 
 fruits brought forth by the sun, and for the precious things 
 put forth by the moon, and for the chief things of the ancient 
 mountains, and for the precious things of the lasting hills, and 
 for the precious things of the earth and fullness thereof." 
 
 A man, dressed in a somewhat distinguished manner, and 
 mounted upon a horse finer than any we had seen in Syria, 
 riding rapidly across the plains and over the hills, turning 
 aside to speak to everyone, attracted my attention. I said to 
 Selim: ""What is that man doing? Is he a superintendent of 
 the district, a courier delivering messages, or an officer upon a 
 search?" "I will find out for you," said Selim, and engaged 
 him in conversation. It was a reminder in that far-off land of 
 what for two centuries took place every day in every year in 
 the United States. This man was an owner of slaves, and a 
 valuable black woman, whom he had purchased from the 
 Soudan, had run away. She had been gone half a day, and 
 he was riding to and fro offering every man five pounds of 
 English money as a reward if he should bring her back. 
 
 Ruins, of whose origin no satisfactory account can be 
 given, were passed from time to time, but nothing to dispute 
 the supremacy of the natural scenery. The walls of an 
 old castle and a Byzantine church stimulated imagination. 
 Olive plantations were numerous, and are always pleasing. 
 The young trees are beautiful; the old, suggestive of hoary 
 antiquity, are considered types of venerable age. Old men 
 sitting under olive trees seemed to unite two forms of nature 
 and gave life to scores of scriptural symbols. 
 
43-' Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 We descended into a beautiful glen, known as the '' Robbers' 
 Glen," and proceeded to the "Robbers' Spring." The water 
 is sweet, pure, and cool, the scenery exquisite, but the place has 
 had a bad reputation for hundreds of years, and has not at all 
 improved. Without a large force it would be dangerous to 
 encamp there. A magnificent caravan of more than si.xty 
 camels was resting at the spring. 
 
 Four or five were riding camels, as different in shape and 
 action from ordinary baggage camels as the finest saddle 
 horses are from the slow-moving truck horses. Like all their 
 race they indulged in growling, but some had a benignant look, 
 and one displayed considerable affection for his rider, who 
 used a code of signals understood by himself and the camel. 
 
 At six o'clock we encamped on a threshing fioor near the 
 village of Sinjil, and had the first real test of camping ac- 
 commodations. The tents wT.re set up with rapidity, our own 
 fulfilling all the conditions promised, and a dinner was served 
 in a style to gratify appetites sharpened by nearly ten hours' 
 riding. But the heavens were ominous, and the wind made the 
 cordage creak and snap like the rigging of a ship in a storm. 
 Selim acknowledged that the prospect was not encouraging. 
 
 At 8:30 we went to bed, taking the precaution to spread our 
 rubber blankets and waterproofs within reach. At half past 
 ten it began to rain, and the night was one of horror. An old 
 camper-out in the wilds of Maine, the Adirondacks, the Rocky 
 Mountains, and the Sierra Nevada, I never experienced such a 
 night. The amount of rain that fell, its violence, and the 
 tempestuous manner in which it beat upon and into the tent, 
 defy description. During the few moments that we lost con- 
 sciousness, dreams of shipwreck, fire, ■earthquake, and volcanic 
 eruptions terrified the mind. Selim and the muleteers were 
 engaged in fastening down the tents the greater part of the 
 night. Mud was six inches deep upon the hillside and plain. 
 In the tent of the muleteers, a sticky mixture of water and 
 clay was so thick that it would have been impossible for one 
 w-earing English shoes to take a second step without unshoe- 
 ing himself. It was the longest night ever experienced by me 
 on land, and 1 caution travelers through Palestine, in early 
 March, to go prepared for such an experience. 
 
From Shiloh to Gerizim. 433 
 
 CHAPTER LII. 
 From Shiloh to Gerizim. 
 
 A Day in a Mohammedan Village — Children and Dogs — A Mohammedan 
 Cemetery — Shiloh — Bible Events Connected with the Place — Jacob's Well 
 — Discovery Made by Bishop Barclay — Climbing the " Mount of Blessing " 
 — Formation of the Summit — Ruins Found There. 
 
 When daylight came we foitnd everything so wet that it 
 was out of the question to dry the bedding, curtains, and tents, 
 so as to make it safe to camp out the next night, and it was 
 decided to spend that day in Sinjil, there being prospect of 
 "drying" weather. Selim went to the village, and arranged 
 with a Mohammedan to surrender to us his best house, which 
 contained only one room. The building was of stone, 
 plastered, and had a chimney and fireplace. Our beds were 
 brought in and plans made to spend the day. This Moham- 
 medan had several wives and a corresponding number of 
 children; also several dogs; and the day, which would other- 
 wise have been lost, gave us a rare opportunity of study- 
 ing Mohammedan life. The houses are crowded together, as 
 in Egypt and other Mohammedan countries. If a man is 
 able, he has half a dozen houses, in one of which cooking is 
 done. In sleeping, they crowd together more like beasts than 
 human beings. Each little hut has its dog, which, though 
 obedient to the owner and the members of his family, will 
 fight furiously with other dogs, and keep a jealous eye upon 
 strangers. It was some time before we dared venture more 
 than a few feet from the house, on account of dogs perched 
 upon the tops of smaller buildings, who threatened to descend 
 upon us, after the manner of panthers. 
 
 The children were handsome and bright, and stared with 
 large, round eyes, as if we had been animals from a tempest- 
 shattered menagerie. We agreed to give them no money 
 until going away, lest the entire village should besiege us. 
 This resolution was adhered to for a few hours, but in an evil 
 
434 Travels in Thrke Continents. 
 
 moment we yielded, and from that time until our departure, 
 except during the hours of sleep, they rivaled the beggars 
 of Egypt. We expected extortionate charges in addition to 
 what was paid by the dragoman as a part of his responsibility, 
 but had no particular cause to complain. 
 
 Several occurrences during that day and night illustrated 
 human nature, and I am sure that, if the doctor and I could 
 have spoken Arabic, we would have found as many opportu- 
 nities for pleasant and instructive conversation as if over- 
 taken by such a storm in England, Germany, or any of the 
 rural districts of the United States. Half a dozen short ex- 
 cursions gave us a good view of the village. 
 
 Our start the next morning was by no means so jubilant a 
 proceeding as that of two days before. The horses and mules 
 drooped, all the men had colds, and Selim, having had but 
 little sleep either night, had to summon philosophy to his aid. 
 The tents were not yet dry, everything smelled musty, but 
 the air was keen and stimulating. 
 
 Passing by the Mohammedan cemetery we heard loud lam- 
 entations. Beyond the wall we saw a company of twelve or 
 fifteen women wailing about the grave of one who had been 
 buried ten days. Each successive day, for a certain period of 
 time, those women assemble and mourn. There was little 
 music, but all seemed solemn and did not cast a glance toward 
 the passers. The sound was a monotone, with gusts of em- 
 phasis on certain words, and peculiar pauses, some rhythmical, 
 others arbitrary. As they sang they gently swayed forward 
 and backward. 
 
 The village of Seilun is upon the ground of the Shiloh of the 
 Bible. There is little doubt of the authenticitv of this site, 
 though, from the time of St. Jerome to 1838, it was lost. It is 
 described so perfectly in the Bible, that none can question .it. 
 A mass of stones, fragments of columns, and literally a heap 
 of ruins, with a solitary tree hanging over the broken wall, it 
 presents a sad contrast to its former glory. Here Joshua and 
 the leaders assembled to divide the land among the tribes, and 
 here the first tabernacle was erected. It was at this place that 
 Eli dwelt. There Hannah visited her son Samuel, taking his 
 little coat every year. Here dwelt the ark of the Lord, and 
 
From Shiloh to Gerizim. 435 
 
 thence it was stolen by the Philistines. There Ahijah the 
 prophet lived, and it was to that sacred place that the wife of 
 Jeroboam went to learn the doom of her husband. 
 
 Ascending to the summit of a barren mountain we descended 
 into another valley, and then rose to a desolate plateau, from 
 which we saw the vast plain of Makhnaa and, beyond and around 
 it, the mountains of Samaria. On our left was Gerizim, with 
 Ebal opposite to it, and in the distant north snow-clad Hermon 
 reared its massive head. A few miles from this point we came 
 to Jacob's Well, upon which all traditions, whether of Jews, 
 Samaritans, Mohammedans, or Christians, agree. Stanley 
 says that this is the undisputed site of the well, with every 
 claim to be considered the original well in which Jacob, ac- 
 cording to the customs of Abraham and Isaac, marked his first 
 possession by digging a " well to give drink thereof to himself, 
 his children, and his cattle." It is at present a great cistern, 
 a shaft cut through the rock, about three yards wide, and 
 twenty-four yards deep. From the amount of rubbish which 
 has fallen down it, it is believed to have been originally two or 
 three times as deep as it is now. Once there was a church 
 over it; this has fallen into decay, and many of the stones 
 composing it have tumbled into the well. 
 
 Bishop Barclay, in 1881, made an interesting discovery — 
 that of the circular mouth of this well, then blocked by a mass 
 of stone. Securing the aid of men, the bishop and his wife 
 managed to clear it, and the ledge was uncovered on which 
 doubtless the Saviour rested. The grooves were found in the 
 stone, caused by the ropes with which the waterpots were 
 drawn up. Between 1866 and 1881, the bottom of the well had 
 risen eight feet, on account of the debris therein accumulated. 
 He who will turn to the fourth chapter of John, will find in a 
 few master touches, bearing equally the impress of truth, sim- 
 plicity, and genius, a perfect picture of the country as it now 
 is, and of the well. 
 
 Abraham had built his first altar at this spot. Jacob died, 
 but, with an undying love, bequeathed it to his favorite son, 
 Joseph, saying: "I took it out of the hand of the Amorite 
 with my sword and my bow." When Joseph was dying he 
 gave commandment concerning his bones, that they were to 
 
436 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 be brought ami buried there. They showed us the toml) of 
 Joseph near the well, but it is obviously a comparatively 
 modern structure. Yet near this spot Joseph was buried, and 
 in his early youth he wandered around this field, looking for 
 his brethren. 
 
 The woman of Samaria said to Jesus: ** Our fathers wor- 
 shiped in this mountain " (Gerizim). We passed from the well, 
 through a beautifully cultivated valley, in which were fine 
 olive groves. Mount Gerizim was now upon our left, and 
 Ebal on the right. After riding up the steep path, so far as 
 was convenient, we dismounted and climbed to the summit of 
 the " Mount of Blessing." A beautiful spring gushes out about 
 a sixth of the way from the valley to the top. The water was 
 cold and clear, but sparkling, as though artificially charged. 
 Halfway up is a plain, and just above is a spot, where, for in- 
 definite ages, the Samaritans have pitched their tents at the 
 Feast of the Passover. Gerizim is a true mountain, lacking 
 but a hundred and forty-five feet of being three thousand feet 
 above the sea level. It is a huge mass of limestone of the 
 tertiary formation. 
 
 No traveler should be deterred from making the ascent. The 
 summit is a broad table-land, affording the finest opportunities 
 for comprehending the landscape — the blue line of the Mediter- 
 ranean, the whole route over which we had traveled, the plain 
 of Makhnaa, and the mountains of Gilead. Dean Stanley be- 
 lieved that this was the scene of Abraham's encounter with 
 Melchizedek and the sacrifice of Isaac. He regards the smooth 
 sheet of rock on the top, with the cave beside it, as the most 
 authentic remnant of primitive worship now existing in Pales- 
 tine. It was the sacred place of Shechem. 
 
 Jotham delivered his satirical parable from the top of the 
 mount; and at the base of the mountain, and in the valley be- 
 low, may be seen specimens of the trees which Jotham uses: 
 "The olive tree," "the fig tree," "the vine," " the bramble." 
 
 Apart from its natural scenery, the summit of Gerizim is 
 a surprise to the traveler, in the extent and number of the 
 ruins existing there. The mountain does not culminate in a 
 cone or sharp point, but in a flat surface, at one end of which 
 are the ruins of an immense castle, square, and flanked with 
 
Fro.m Shiloh to Gerizlm. 437 
 
 towers. It is supposed to belong to the time of Justinian, 
 but some maintain that the walls, nearly ten feet thick, are of 
 later date. A large reservoir is to the north of the castle, and 
 on the east side are several chambers; one has a Greek cross 
 over the door. The old church was built in the time of Jus- 
 tinian, more than thirteen lumdred years ago. There were 
 chapels, and the building was octagonal. Long pavements 
 extend from north to south, and the very stones of the altar 
 erected by Joshua are pointed out. 
 
 1 should have been glad to ascend Ebal, the " Mount of Curs- 
 ing." Three hours would have been sufficient, but, having lost 
 a day, we were content to view it from Gerizim. Over this 
 valley, and on the hillsides, the whole host of Israel was gath- 
 ered. The Levites stood on Gerizim to pronounce blessing 
 upon the obedient, and from Ebal denounced curses upon the 
 rebellious. Joshua (viii) tells when and how it was done, and 
 Deut. xi-xiv gives the order by Moses for the ceremony. ^Ve 
 tested the echoes from the slope of Gerizim, and brought 
 back sounds that appeared to come from Ebal. Various trav- 
 elers have stationed friends on both mountains, they them- 
 selves standing in the center of the plain, and have declared 
 that they could hear distinctly what both said. 
 
 We lunched by the wayside, that day, not far from the spot 
 where Jesus, being wearied, rested upon Jacob's Well, and had 
 meat to eat that his disciples "knew not of." 
 
438 Travkls in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LIII. 
 Shechem, Samaria, Jenin. 
 
 Events of Sacred History Connected with Nabulus — The Modern Town — 
 Samaritans — Samaritan Codex of the Pentateuch — Across tlie Valley of 
 Samaria— Street of Columns — The Plain of Esdraelon — Jenin. 
 
 From Gerizim we had seen the beautiful valley of Nabulus, 
 and our road now led through it. This is ancient Shechem, 
 also called Sichar, Sichem, and Sychem. Abraham was the first 
 biblical visitor to the place, and the land was then owned 
 by the Canaanites. Jacob found it in the possession of the 
 Hivites, and governed by Hainor, the father of Shechem. 
 Simeon and Levi took it and murdered every male, for which 
 they were cursed by Jacob on his deathbed. It must have 
 been near here that Joseph was seized by his brethren. Re- 
 hoboam and Jeroboam met there and divided the kingdoin, 
 and then Shechem became the seat of Jeroboam's government. 
 To Christians it is peculiarly interesting because, after the cap- 
 tivity, the Samaritans made this their sacred place. The woman 
 who drew from Jacob's ^^'ell the water for Jesus lived here. 
 
 The place has about a thousand Christians, a few Prot- 
 estant and the others either Latin or Greek; a larger num- 
 ber are Jews, but the majority of the people are ISIohammed- 
 ans. Down to a recent period the town was bitterly intoler- 
 ant toward Christian visitors, whom they pelted with stones, 
 at the same time crying ^^JVozrani I" 
 
 The buildings are solidly built of stone, and some are orna- 
 mented; but the streets are dirtv and narrow. An extraordinarv 
 traffic in soap, the principal ingredient of which is olive oil, is 
 carried on, there being more than twenty manufactories. 
 
 In Nabulus dwell all the Samaritans in the world, less than one 
 hundred and fifty. They are of "noble physiognomy" and 
 of magnificent physique. The men would attract attention 
 anywhere by their proportions; and have so little of the Jew- 
 ish cast that they would not be taken as belonging to that 
 
Shechem, Samaria, Jenin. 439 
 
 race. On being introduced to the teacher of the school, a 
 man fully six feet in height, we asked to see the ancient Samari- 
 tan Codex of the Pentateuch, one of the oldest manuscripts in 
 the world. The teacher solemnly assured us that he brought 
 it forth, but, having been warned that an attempt is made to 
 palm off a more recent copy upon travelers, we sent for the 
 high priest and tried to ascertain whether we saw the original. 
 In a few moments he acknowledged to Selim that the real 
 original manuscript had not been shown. It was then brought 
 forth and reverently kissed by the Samaritans. They say that 
 it was written by a grandson or great-grandson of Aaron, 
 which must be classed with the instances, so common in the 
 Eastern world, of drawing the long bow. Nevertheless those 
 competent to judge regard it as being nearly two thousand 
 years old. 
 
 The high priest is handsome; and, paying him a compliment, 
 we learned that he had his photographs, and was not above 
 selling them. George Eliot, in Middlemarch, declares that 
 none are so proud of their photographs, or give artists more 
 trouble, than doctors of divinity who have renounced the 
 world. When it is considered that a stock trade is done by 
 photographers in Great Britain and the United States in pic- 
 tures of ministers and of bishops in their prelatical robes; that 
 peddlers of photographs of the successful revivalist follow him 
 in his spiritual labors, and that a snug sum is derived from 
 their sale, I will say nothing against this man, who, so far as 
 personal beauty is concerned, had a better reason for putting 
 his photographs upon the market than a majorit}^ of those 
 who find so much pleasure in it. 
 
 A peculiarity of the Samaritans is scrupulous cleanliness. 
 We were curious to see Jacob, a Samaritan who visited Eng- 
 land a few years ago, and was suspected of dealing in false an- 
 tiquities. He came forth, and was ingratiating in manner and 
 of splendid physique. His countenance was indicative of high 
 intellectuality; he spoke English, and is said to be learned in 
 other modern languages. 
 
 A pleasant incident was the glimpse we had of the Samari- 
 tan children, for it is seldom that one can see the entire rising 
 generation of an historic people. 
 
440 Travkls in Three Continents. 
 
 The Samaritans ft)ught against the Jews, Christians, and the 
 Roman emperors. In the sixth century they were numerous 
 and dangerous, and Justinian dispatched a great army against 
 them. Some fled to Persia ami others became Christians. 
 For a long time after that they are not mentioned in history. 
 There were a thousand of them in the twelfth century, but since 
 then they have diminished to about one hundred and fifty, 
 averaging three to a family. They believe in the Pentateuch, 
 reject the rest of the Scriptures, worship one God, and hate 
 idols. Three times a year they make a pilgrimage to the top 
 of Mount Gerizim. At the Feast of the Passover they offer 
 sacrifices. A Samaritan, when performing any service in the 
 synagogue at Nabulus, looks in an oblique direction toward 
 Mount Gerizim; and from that point the feet of successive 
 generations of Samaritans, from the time of Nehemiah until 
 now, have worn a path to the summit of the mountain. 
 
 They are as antagonistic to the Jews as w'ere their fathers. 
 Some day they will be reduced to one or two, who will have a 
 fortune in that ancient manuscript of the Pentateuch, and 
 probably in future ages it will repose in the British Museum, 
 or some other endowed repository of antiquities. 
 
 I bought in Nabulus some sesame, grain much cultivated 
 in the East, resembling oats, and often spoken of in oriental 
 legends. In the Arabian A^ig/ifs' E/itcrta/nniciifs, in the story 
 of " Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves," when Cassim was 
 in the cave, he forgot the magic w^ords which alone would 
 open the door. Vainly he tried "Open, wheat," "Open, 
 barley." "Sesame" he could not recall, and so died for his 
 curiosity and cupidity. 
 
 Nabulus stands on the great divide, and we saw brooks run- 
 ning eastward toward the Jordan, and westward toward the 
 Great Sea. It took us nearly three hours to cross the charm- 
 ing valley which had been so long in sight. Then we began 
 to ascend the hill of Samaria. The First and Second Books of 
 Kings give an account of the history of this place, until the 
 prophet Hosea declares that Samaria shall become desolate. 
 The New Testament contains its apostolic history. Philip 
 preached there. There w-as long a rivalry between Nazareth 
 and Samaria; as the former increased the latter declined, and 
 
Shechem, Samaria, jenin. 441 
 
 is now a miserable place, but retains indications of its former 
 grandeur. Tradition represents that John the Baptist, Oba- 
 diah, and Elisha were buried there. We went down into the 
 Tomb of John the Baptist, and saw a stone door less than four 
 feet high, said to be the door of St. John's prison. Josephus, 
 however, says that John w^as not imprisoned there, but in a 
 castle on the Dead Sea. St. Jerome is the first author whose 
 works have come down to modern times who speaks of John 
 the Baptist being buried there. On a point like this, I should 
 be inclined to believe Josephus rather than any later writer, 
 unless the latter could prove by contemporary evidence that 
 the former had fallen into error. 
 
 A street of columns, of which a hundred whole or broken 
 remain, with the ruins of others, was interesting. The orig- 
 inal colonnade was about three fifths of a mile long. Some of 
 the columns are buried beneath the soil. As Thomson says: 
 "The entire hill is covered with rubbish, indicating exist- 
 ence and repeated destruction of a large city." 
 
 We rode rapidly across the plain to the place of encamp- 
 ment; but what a view burst upon us when we ascended a hill 
 from which stretched away the plain of Esdraelon! About us 
 were the gardens of Samaria, the place to which we de- 
 scended to camp being on the boundary between those 
 mountains and the plain. The path passed near the ruins of 
 Dothan, where Joseph came seeking his brethren, and they 
 sold him to the Ishmaelites. Elisha the prophet lived here, 
 and Benhadad surrounded him with horses and chariots in 
 order to capture him. 
 
 Before reaching Jenin we went through another of those 
 glens famous as a stronghold of robbers. The traditions of 
 many resemble wonderfully the tales of the robber castles and 
 bands on the Rhine. 
 
 Jenin was one of the ancient boundaries between Samaria 
 and Galilee. Beautiful gardens and clear springs abound 
 there, but " we could tarry but a night." 
 23 
 
^^2 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LIV. 
 Jezreel, Nain, and the Cave of the Witch of Endor. 
 
 Figs and Talms — Jezrcol— A Bedouin Camp— Dogs in Palestine— Fountain 
 of Gideon— The Beautiful Village of Shunem — Caravan Route — Naiu- 
 An Elderly Appearing Boy— Endor and its Tragic History— Cave of the 
 Witch. 
 
 It was at the time of young figs, and we saw them in the 
 groves of Samaria as plentiful as peaches in 'a fine season in 
 the orchards of Delaware. No one who sees only the fig of 
 commerce, packed and pressed, can form a correct idea of the 
 appearance of the young fruit. Its greenness is a shade pecul- 
 iar to itself; its shape somewhat like that of a small gourd. 
 The stunted palms at Jenin reminded us of the scenes of 
 Egypt; but the palm tree generally in Palestine is inferior to 
 those found where the climate is more uniform. 
 
 From Jenin we went across the great plain of Esdraelon 
 to Jezreel, now known as Zerin. This plain has several 
 names: Jezreel (Hebrew), Esdraelon (Greek), the valley of 
 Armageddon, spoken of in the Revelation of St. John, where 
 Gog and Magog, figuratively used, are to fight a battle. It 
 begins at the Mediterranean, between the head of Carmel on 
 the south and Acre on the north, extending across Palestine 
 to the river Jordan. On the north are the mountains of 
 Lebanon, on the south those of Samaria. 
 
 It is equal to the smoothest lawns of the finest parks of the 
 world, and has an average breadth of twelve miles. Over it 
 wander marauding Arabs, so that there is little cultivation. 
 This plain was a battlefield from the time of Barak to Napo- 
 leon. In iS68 the Bedouins were expelled, but within fifteen 
 years they have once or twice overrun the plain. It will soon 
 be extensively cultivated, and we saw the beginnings of several 
 improvements. Storks and cranes were sailing majestically 
 over our heads, or settling on projections, but scarcely a house 
 was to be seen in the whole plain, except in the villages. 
 
Jezreel, Nain, and Cave of Witch of Endor. 443 
 
 At Zerin we had a fine view. Near there is the field which 
 Ahab wrested from Naboth, and there Jezebel lived. In the 
 distance, through a romantic cleft in the hills, Mount Carmel 
 and Nazareth appeared. Here Saul fought for the last time 
 against the Philistines, and committed suicide. 
 
 Seeing a Bedouin camp near Jezreel, I went with Selim to 
 look into it. They had several dogs, and one with an ap- 
 pearance of ferocity quite terrifying came out to attack us. 
 As he approaclied and became irritating, our dragoman 
 stooped and picked up a stone. Such a transition I never 
 saw. Fancy a panther about to spring, each muscle 
 stretched to its utmost tension, the mouth wide open, every 
 tooth visible, the eyes red and almost leaping from their 
 sockets; in a second the same animal cowed, its tail between 
 its legs, its ears drooping, every muscle relaxed, moving 
 away, and in another instant in a half-shamefaced way snuff- 
 ing the ground as if nothing had happened. Selim said that 
 all dogs in Palestine are afraid of a man, unless the man is 
 afraid of the dog. 
 
 The Bedouin tents are protected on the stormy, but open 
 on the pleasant side. The women were scantily clad. In 
 one tent lay several children and dogs asleep side by side. 
 The whole aspect was that of indolence, stupidity, animalism. 
 They were the lowest sort of wandering Bedouins, and, had I 
 been alone, would have fallen upon me, stripped me, and left 
 me more than half dead. 
 
 From Zerin it is a short distance to the Fountain of (rideon, 
 where the three hundred picked men lapped the water with 
 their tongues as a dog lappeth; and we were within twenty 
 minutes' walk of the spot where the cry was raised, "The 
 sword of the Lord and of Gideon." 
 
 We made our way to Sulem, the Shunem of the Bible. It 
 is the prettiest small village in Palestine, is surrounded 
 by a hedge of prickly pears, and near beautiful groves of 
 lemon, orange, and citron trees. The traveler may tell of 
 groves, but no proper impression of their beauty can be ob- 
 tained till seen. This was the home of the Shunammite 
 woman, and here Elisha raised her child from the dead. 
 Sulem is full of beehives, and never did honey gatherers 
 
444 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 have finer pasturage than the flowery plain of Esdraelon 
 affords. 
 
 We saw the caravan route from Jerusalem to Egypt, 
 traversed from long before David's time until now by an 
 almost ceaseless procession, froni our elevated view point 
 upon the slope of the hill Mcjrch, near which the Midianites 
 encamped the day before they were overthrown by Gideon, 
 we could see several caravans winding slowly along; no better 
 illustration of the old English phrase, "wending their way," 
 could be imagined. 
 
 We traveled for two or three miles after passing Shunem in 
 a northeasterly direction, leaving the hills on the left. The 
 plain is well watered, and from time to time the road crossed 
 small streams, conducting us finally to Nain, the scene of one 
 of the most pathetic incidents in the New Testament. 
 
 This sacred site is on the slope of Little Hermon, around 
 which we had traveled to reach it, and from its position com- 
 mands a charming and instructive view. The place is insig- 
 nificant and dirty, disfigured by heaps of rubbish and unro- 
 mantic ruins, and has but a small population. On the west 
 are ancient rock sepulchers. "Now when he came nigh to 
 the gate of the city, behold, there was a dead man carried 
 out, the only son of his mother, and she was a widow: and 
 much people of the city was with her." To the Christian 
 world this circumstance makes the otherwise obscure and 
 worthless village a place of pilgrimage, a scene of interest, 
 and a suggestion of divinity and immortality. 
 
 As we entered, a boy, gayly dressed, ran along by the side 
 of our horses, singing in a clear voice and in excellent 
 English: "Jesus loves me, this I know." He did not beg, 
 but accosted us with familiarity, yet without presumption. 
 His complexion was dark, and his face covered with the incip- 
 ient down that we connect with eighteen or twenty years of 
 masculine age in this country. I asked him his age, and he 
 said "eleven years." Dr. Bancroft declined to believe that 
 he was telling the truth, whereupon up sprang an argument 
 between us concerning the probability of it, the doctor declar- 
 ing that in his opinion no boy eleven years old ever lived as 
 large and apparently as mature as this boy. I maintained 
 
Jezreel, Nain, and Cave of Witch of Endor. 445 
 
 that I had seen some fully his equal. Not long afterward we 
 had an opportunity to ask a woman who knew him his age. 
 She hesitated, the boy addressed her in Arabic, and she said 
 in that tongue to the dragoman: " He is eleven years of age." 
 As I was about to rejoice. Dr. Bancroft asked the dragoman 
 what the boy had said in Arabic. The answer came: "He 
 told her to say that he was eleven." So the case remained 
 unsettled. He told us, what we had no reason to doubt, that 
 he learned English in a school in Jerusalem. This elderly 
 boy adhered to us until we left, singing from time to time, 
 " Jesus loves me; " whatever his age may have been, he was 
 as peculiar a specimen of human nature as we met. 
 
 Nain has this advantage over many other sites of Scripture 
 events: there is no doubt about its identity; and it is so situ- 
 ated that the very spot where the miracle was wrought is 
 certain. There is a Greek church, commemorating the rais- 
 ing of the young man, which we found some difificulty in 
 entering. It was at that time kept closed on account of 
 trouble between the Greek patriarch in Jerusalem and the 
 priest in charge, the latter having been removed. 
 
 From this scene of New Testament history, a ride of less 
 than an hour down into the plain, across it, and over some 
 rocky elevations, conducted us to the location of several tragic 
 incidents of the Old Testament. 
 
 The authenticity of the site of Endor is practically undis- 
 puted. The consecutive history of the place identifies it, 
 references to it being so frequent that tradition has never 
 divided. 
 
 This is the probable site of the battle between Barak, 
 Deborah, Sisera, and his host. Barak was encamped opposite 
 on Mount Tabor. As Sisera and his host approached, a fear- 
 ful storm raged. Barak swept down upon them and drove 
 them back into the river Kishon, full of marshes and swamps. 
 We had seen enough in Palestine to show us how this small 
 brook in a few hours might become a river, " forming marshes 
 and quicksands, into which one's horses sink knee-deep." As 
 Barak's force pushed them, their nine hundred chariots of iron 
 fled before him and his ten thousand men, and the next day 
 Deborah sang the song of victory: "They fought from 
 
446 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 heaven; the stars hi their courses fought against Sisera. The 
 river of Kishon swept them away, that ancient river, the river 
 Kishon. O my soul, thou hast trodden down strength." 
 Sisera leaped from his chariot, and wandered across the 
 country in search of his tents, and Jael slew him. 
 
 It was to this spot that Saul came years afterward to con- 
 sult the woman forever to be known as "The Witch of En- 
 dor." The mountain of Gilboa, at whose base Saul was 
 encamped, was not such a situation as to encourage him with 
 the hope of success against the mighty armies which the 
 Philistines had gathered; for they were above him. God had 
 refused to answer Saul, and, led by his men, he resorted to 
 the most celebrated witch of the time, who had maintained her- 
 self against his order that all such professed dealers in spirits 
 should be destroyed out of the land. To reach her he had to 
 travel about ten miles, for the Philistine camp was between 
 his camp and Endor, and to reach the village he had to go 
 around to the eastward of the hill jSIoreh, upon which we had 
 been traveling. 
 
 I have seen attempts in prose and poetry to paraphrase the 
 Bible narrative of this visit, but in simplicity and vividness, as 
 a mere work of art, it immeasurably surpasses the best of 
 them. 
 
 Endor is named from Dor, a spring. It is the dirtiest 
 place that we saw in all Palestine, and the children are among 
 the filthiest, and as much inclined to make nuisances of 
 themselves as those in Egypt, crowding upon us like wild ani- 
 mals. In the hillsides are caverns, but only one seemed 
 at all suited for the abode of a human being. It has an 
 opening out of which smoke could pass, and is a cow stable; 
 tradition points it out as the home of the witch, and subse- 
 quently inhabited for ages by human beings. We stood in the 
 cave and recalled the narrative of the scene, and only needed 
 a "secret, black, and midnight hag" brewing a charm within, 
 and a giant, feeble, trembling, starving, worn with anxiety, 
 with two men, climbing up the hill, and distant encampments, 
 to typify the unavailing efforts of desperation. 
 
o 
 
 c 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 p 
 cr 
 o 
 
Tabor and Nazareth. 449 
 
 CHAPTER LV. 
 Tabor and Nazareth. 
 
 Views Ascending — From the Summit — Ruins — Vesper Music in the Russian 
 Convent Chapel — Strange Flowerpots — Lost in a Forest — Nazareth — Pop- 
 ulation—Buildings—Mary's Well— Mounts of Precipitation— /uV/(^«('j of 
 
 the Christ. 
 
 Riding fur an hour and a half across the plain from the 
 cave of the Witch of Endor brought us to the foot of Mount 
 Tabor. It was nearly sundown, and a council was held 
 to determine whether we could ascend, descend, and reach 
 the place of encampment before overtaken by darkness; but, 
 the sky being clear, it was decided to make the attempt. 
 Tabor is the most svmmetrical of the mountains of Palestine, 
 and the zigzag path gives a succession of fine views. The sum- 
 mit is only two thousand and eighteen feet above the Mediter- 
 ranean, and it is but a little over a thousand above the plain. 
 
 From it we caught the first glimpse of the Sea of Tiberias; 
 and saw the battlefield of Barak and Sisera, Mount Carmel, 
 the far-off mountains of the Hauran covered by tall oaks of 
 Bashan, and towering above all, as Mont Blanc above the 
 other Alps, was imperial Hermon, the one snow-clad moun- 
 tain. 
 
 Tabor is covered with ruins, and there are several monas- 
 teries upon it. For some time after reaching the top we did 
 not see a human being, but as we drew near the Russian convent 
 the sweetest strains of music fell upon our ears, and hastening 
 in we found three sisters engaged in the evening worship. No 
 one was in the chapel except the janitor and these women. 
 Apart from the surroundings, and without reference to the 
 spell which they would naturally throw over everything, we 
 agreed that we had seldom heard sweeter music. The soprano 
 was birdlike; the contralto almost as deep as a basso. The 
 Russians do not allow instrumental music; the large chapel 
 nearly empty gave an apparent strength to their voices which. 
 
45° 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 had the doors been closed, iniglu have produced unpleasant 
 echoes; but these being open, the music in that pure air was 
 entrancing. So excellent was the discipline of the nuns, or so 
 absorbed were they in their devotions, that they did not so 
 much as cast a glance at us, though we tarried until the long 
 service was finished. 
 
 Upon the roof of one of the monasteries were long rows 
 of flowerpots. There is not a conjuror, who had not an op- 
 portunity of ascertaining the facts from some human being, 
 who could conjecture from what those pots were made. Great 
 is America! 'J'hey were Pratt's Astral Oil cans, which illumi- 
 nating fluid is used in various parts of the oriental world. 
 
 It is possible that Tabor was selected for beauty and Carmel 
 for majesty, as well as for the points of the compass. "As I 
 live, saith the King, whose name is the Lord of hosts. Surely as 
 Tabor is among the mountains, and as Carmel by the sea, so 
 shall he come." 
 
 It was believed for ages that Tabor was the scene of the 
 transfiguration, and as early as the sixth century the pilgrims 
 erected three churches here. The scene of the transfigura- 
 tion is now generally placed at a long distance from this point, 
 though within a short time a strong tendency has appeared to 
 return to the ancient tradition. 
 
 It was now nearly dark, and the descent was made as rap- 
 idly as possible. Soon after reaching the base, and passing 
 through an olive orchard, we plunged into a dense forest, 
 which the few lingering rays of the sun could not penetrate. 
 Absolute darkness encompassed us. We continually lost our 
 way and had difficulty and conflicts of judgment in finding it. 
 An eccentric individual, named Hobib, who joined us at Jenin, 
 had been over the route several times, but became confused 
 and was so terrified as to be of little assistance. Meanwhile 
 the whimperings and finally the howls of jackals made the 
 night hideous. These whnnperings are so peculiar that, on 
 hearing them from the elevated height far above us, I said: 
 "We are not far from a house; listen to those children." 
 But in less than five minutes we knew that they were not 
 human voices. At last Hobib became so terrified and so 
 certain that we were lost, that Selim essayed to obtain informa- 
 
Tabor and Nazareth. 451 
 
 tion from a house, the light of which we saw in the distance. 
 A dialogue was carried on in Arabic, and we obtained sufficient 
 directions to put us in the right road, and about ten o'clock 
 entered the sacred city of Nazareth. 
 
 A new difficulty then presented itself. The camp was not 
 where Selim expected to find it, nor were there any people 
 about the streets to direct us. But after much wandering 
 and several inquiries at houses, some of which owing to the 
 lateness of the hour were not answered pleasantly, and our 
 movements being watched and howled at by a number of dogs, 
 we reached the camp. 
 
 Hobib, before leaving, presented us with a letter, which is 
 here printed exactly as spelled in the document. It is a mix- 
 ture of oriental shrewdness and simplicity. The frankness 
 with which the signers state their desire to connect preaching 
 with living in this world and "rest in their minds; " their in- 
 vocations of the divine blessing; and their Uriah Heap-like 
 humility are as remarkable as the orthography: 
 
 " To our Dear Breathern & Sisters in the Lord Jesus Christ. 
 As we have the liberty to write you this petation to your mercy 
 ful that we both are breathern from the Holy City Jerusalem 
 and we are brought up in the English School of Bishop Gobat 
 and after lefting the school we dwelt in Nablous which is called 
 Schkem and one of us is born from his mothers womp in one 
 hand and his wife from 3 months ago she left this world and 
 now he has no pusnes enorder to get his daly food and he has 
 3 sons in the Latan School and the other Brother his handwark 
 Shewmaker and in this Contry his work is not enough for man- 
 taning us we two and therefore we thaught in our minds to 
 explain to you our own history to be plained to your mercyfuly 
 hoping from your great kindness and from the Lord Jesus to 
 put his strong feeling in your harts enorder to take us in any 
 part of Europe by putting us in any wark or in a College to 
 learn that by and by may we be able to preach the warld of 
 God amongst the peoble and be rest in our minds and in our 
 living in this warld and the last of our peseeging you if our 
 desire will not be fullfiled we hope from your great mercy as 
 to help us in any kind of favour by giving us some money help 
 
45^ 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 to our food because we are nedy and whu do mercy with us 
 God may keep in his going and comming and be with him from 
 all any harm and give him at last the enharitans of the King- 
 dom of heaven your most opedent humble servent 
 
 "John and Hobib the 
 
 " Sons of Micheel Doorsy. " 
 
 Nazareth rivals Bethlehem in the devotion of pilgrims, and 
 surpasses it in connection with the life of Christ. It was to a 
 
 Nazareth. 
 
 city of Galilee named Nazareth, to a virgin espoused to a man 
 whose name was Joseph, that the angel Gabriel was sent from 
 God. From Nazareth Joseph went up to Bethlehem to be 
 taxed with Mary, his espoused wife. Thence, being warned 
 of God in a dream, they fled to Egypt, and after the return 
 resumed their former abode in Nazareth. There Jesus dwelt 
 until he entered upon his ministry, and so it was fulfilled which 
 was spoken by the prophet: " He shall be called a Nazarene." 
 It was from Nazareth that he went to be baptized of John 
 in the Jordan w^hen he was beginning his public ministry. He 
 then returned "to Nazareth, where he had been brought up;" 
 but, though he returned unto his own, his own received him 
 not. So he left that city and went to Capernaum and other 
 places, going back to Nazareth once more, nearly a year later. 
 But the people with whom he had lived twenty-eight years be- 
 came enraged as he expounded the Scriptures in their syna- 
 
Tabor and Nazareth. 453 
 
 gogue, and "thrust him out of the city, and led him unto the 
 brow of the hill whereon their city was built, that they might 
 cast him down headlong." 
 
 Never afterward, as far as can be learned from the New 
 Testament, did he visit the place. 
 
 From most points of view Nazareth seems far up upon the 
 summit of a mountain, but it is really on the side and sur- 
 rounded by hills, which " seem as if they had met to form an 
 inclosure." Stanley counted fifteen, which he describes as 
 gently rounded. When we were there they were covered with 
 rich grass, and nothing more charming can be found in \er- 
 mont or in the lake districts of England than these green hills. 
 
 The views from the streets of Nazareth are beautiful. 
 Glimpses are to be obtained of every part of the ground over 
 which we had traveled, and of expanses which we were yet to 
 explore. From the hills above the city we saw Tabor, Her- 
 mon, and Carmel, and enjoyed a fine view of the Mediterra- 
 nean Sea. In ancient times its population was rough and a 
 terror to surrounding villages. The proverb which fell from 
 the lips of Nathanael, " Can any good thing come out of Naz- 
 areth ? " finds its explanation in its wild mountain situation 
 and the corresponding strength and ferocity of its inhabitants. 
 
 We were here in the town in which Jesus lived for more than 
 a quarter of a century, amid that half-savage population, iso- 
 lated, obscure, quiet. So little is told of him that a single 
 page might contain it all. 
 
 We had arrived at the time to behold nature in its brightest 
 hue. The fig and olive trees, the cactus hedges, and all the 
 flowers of spring wore their most beautiful garments. Fine 
 opportunities for studying the different classes of population 
 were afforded by the fact that the town is divided into three 
 quarters — one devoted to the Latins, another to the Greeks, 
 and the other to the Mohammedans. The Turkish ofificials 
 put the population at ten or twelve thousand; others declare 
 that there are not more than six thousand, and divide them 
 thus: 2,000 Mohammedans, 2,500 Orthodox Greeks, 800 Lat- 
 ins, 100 Protestants, and two or three hundred of other sects. 
 The Jews are so few in number as not to receive enumeration. 
 We did not see more than five or six. 
 
454 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 The largest buildings are the Latin monastery and hospital. 
 The Church of the Annunciation is within the monastery. 
 Between the altars are steps leading to the Chapel of the Annun- 
 ciation, where is this Latin inscription: ^^ Hie Verbum Caro 
 Factum Est'' (Here the Word was made flesh). The places 
 are indicated thus: There is a round column called the col- 
 umn of Gabriel. This is supposed to mark the spot where 
 the angel stood. Eighteen inches distant, hanging from the 
 ceiling, is a fragment of a column which is said to be miracu- 
 lously supported, and to distinguish the spot where the Virgin 
 sat when she received the communication of the angel. Here 
 also is the spot where the house of the Virgin is said to have 
 stood. According to the claim of the Roman Catholics, the 
 house is in Loretto, Italy. The tradition is that on May lo, 
 1 29 1, angels carried off the building to prevent the Mohammed- 
 ans, who had captured the city, from profaning it. They took 
 it first to Tersato, in Dalmatia; there it remained some years, 
 and was then taken to Loretto. Li 1471 the Church accepted 
 the miracle and officially confirmed it. As the Latins cannot 
 pretend to possess the house, they show the rock on which 
 it rested. Stanley makes a dispassionate examination of the 
 question, and shows that no pilgrim who visited Nazareth 
 from the fourth to the sixteenth century alludes to any house 
 of Joseph as standing or having been there within human 
 memory, that the records in Italy contain no mention of it till 
 the fifteenth century. He then confronts it, as it stands at 
 Loretto, with the place as it appears at Nazareth, showing that 
 the house in Italy, being ^6x 17, could not possibly have stood 
 there, and that if it did stand where they say it did, it " would 
 have closed up with blank walls the very passages by which 
 alone the communication could be effected." He concludes 
 that it is the most incredible of all ecclesiastical legends, and 
 apologizes for attempting any detailed refutation of it because 
 of the pathetic devotion of the Italian people. 
 
 The Roman Catholics also show us the workshop of Joseph; 
 it has only been about two hundred years since the story arose. 
 They claim to have the table on which Christ dined with his 
 apostles both before and after the resurrection ; it is a block of 
 chalk eleven and a half feet long and nine and a half feet broad- 
 
Tabor and Nazareth. 455 
 
 At the other end of the town is the Church of the Annuncia- 
 tion of the Greeks, and this in all probability, is in the right 
 place, for the most ancient tradition is that the angel accosted 
 Mary as she was drawing water. 
 
 There is but one spring of importance in Nazareth, and that 
 from the earliest times has been called IMary's Well. It is 
 near the Greek Church of the Annunciation. We came upon 
 that well unexpectedly, and saw pilgrims bathing their eyes 
 and heads, and many Nazarene women drawing water. Noth- 
 ing in all Palestine is more certain than that the mother of 
 Jesus, with her infant son, went to and from that spring. 
 Nor is anything much more probable than that the scene which 
 we witnessed was in all essential particulars similar to that 
 which daily took place at the same abundant spring in all the 
 years of Christ's life there. 
 
 The gardens of Nazareth are beautiful and kept constantly 
 green by the use of water from the spring. Mary's Well, 
 take it all in all, is the most beautiful and touching relic of 
 Christ which the city affords. It is more than likely that our 
 Lord's daily experience with that ever-flowing stream sug- 
 gested the frequent references to wells of water springing up 
 into everlasting life; for it was his custom to draw symbols of 
 spiritual truth from the natural scenery with which he had 
 been familiar. 
 
 The most darkly tragical of the reminiscences is the deter- 
 mination of the mob of his fellow-townsmen (who could not 
 bear either his spiritual claims or his elevation) to cast him 
 headlong over the cliff. We made no journeys to the differ- 
 ent sites of supposed Mounts of Precipitation. We could see 
 several from the city: though some one must have been meant, 
 and at the time was preeminently appropriate and accessible, 
 there are so many, any of which might have served the pur- 
 pose, that no idea resting upon any probable basis can be 
 formed. The Maronites have built a church near a hill which, 
 in the opinion of some critics, is a much more likely place 
 than the one generally pointed out, near which we passed 
 when riding around the mountain of Endor. 
 
 1 approached Nazareth with a spirit of hunger for some- 
 thing unmistakably connected with the life of Christ, a desire 
 
456 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 beautifully described in a poem to be found in a little book, 
 called Rcliqucs of the Christ, written by Dr. Denis Wortman: 
 
 " I wonder if in Nazareth, 
 
 By lieedless feet o'errun, 
 There lingers still some dear relique 
 
 Of work by Joseph's Son ; 
 Some carved thought, some tool of toil, 
 
 Some house with stones grown gray, 
 A home he built who had not where 
 
 His weary head to lay. 
 
 " I visit Nazareth, ask each man, 
 
 Each mound, each stone, each wind; 
 ' I pray ye, help some precious trace 
 
 Of your great Builder find ; ' 
 Alas I ye listeners to my plaint, 
 
 The startled silence saith : 
 ' What once was false, is now too true — 
 
 No Christ in Nazareth ! ' " 
 
 While it is true, so far as any work of his hands there is con- 
 cerned, there is nothing to satisfy the longing of the Christian, 
 still one does not carry a dissatisfied feeling away, for he 
 finds what he desires in the place itself. Nazareth never 
 was a large place; the situation rendered it impossible. Walk- 
 ing, as we did, through all the streets and around the sub- 
 urbs, over every point, our feet must have pressed the very 
 spots over which he w-alked; but even that needs spiritualizing 
 to make it preeminently strengthening to faith. It is not that 
 the Bible relates so faithfully the facts of nature in Pales- 
 tine that makes it a book for the soul, but that it describes 
 man and supplies his deepest needs. As we take leave of 
 Nazareth, where memories crowd so thickly upon us, and 
 where, because much has been expected, there may be a feel- 
 ing of vague disappointment that more is not found, we cannot 
 do better than to quote another stanza of the poem above re- 
 ferred to, which has in it the exultant triumph of faith over 
 sight: 
 
 " But, O my soul, why thus cast down ? 
 
 A truer Nazareth scan ; 
 What if thou find no time-spoiled work 
 
 Of Christ, the Son of man ? 
 
 '&' 
 
Tabor and Nazareth. 457 
 
 Joy yet to thee ! lift up thy head ! 
 
 Cast laptiued gaze abroad, — 
 See in this vast Christ-builded world 
 
 Signs of the Son of God." 
 
 As we began to strike tents in the morning a motley crowd 
 assembled, watching until we departed. The arrival, move- 
 ments, and departure of travelers furnished the chief amuse- 
 ment of the idlers and urchins of Nazareth. Several tribes 
 were represented in the crowd, and some of the children were 
 bright, pleasing in appearance, less boisterous than European 
 children, and more graceful and winning in manner than most 
 who have an eye to reward. They could beg without seeming 
 to do so, and the lowest were content to get the food which 
 the cook would otherwise have thrown away. Nowhere did 
 we receive so much attention from spectators. 
 
458 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LVI. 
 From Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee by Way of Cana. 
 
 Kefr-Kenna — Mount of Beatitudes — First View of the Sea of Galilee — Ti- 
 berias — Description of the Sea — History of the Town — Grave of Maimoni- 
 des — Two Protestant Services on Sunday — The Protestant Mission in 
 Tiberias. 
 
 Ox leaving Nazareth we set out for Cana of Galilee, whose 
 modern name is Kefr-Kenna. Passing by Mary's Well, in 
 about an hour and a half we reached the village. Before 
 doing so we passed the birthplace of the prophet Jonah, a 
 genuine tradition with scriptural support. It is also one of 
 the places which claim his tomb. Here is his supposed sepul- 
 cher on the hill, and visible at a considerable distance. 
 
 Is Kefr-Kenna the original Cana? For a long time there was 
 no dispute upon the point. Every marriage ceremony recalls 
 the fact that Christ performed his first miracle here, and at 
 a wedding. This was the native place of Nathanael, "an 
 Israelite indeed, in whom is no guile." Christ was here when 
 he spoke the word which healed the nobleman's son who was 
 sick at Capernaum; and here the nobleman exhibited a faith 
 which made his name immortal, and forever an example and 
 encouragement to all Christians. 
 
 Dr. Robinson denies that this is the site, and locates it 
 at Cana-El-Jaeliel, about nine miles from Nazareth. Other 
 critics, having considered all that Drs. Robinson and Porter 
 have to offer, believe the claims to be about equally balanced. 
 
 In this town the children raised a cry which reminded us 
 of the " Howadji " which we had heard so often in Egypt- 
 "Hadji ! Hadji! " With this cry they ran after the traveler, 
 offering water and expecting a gratuity. In the Greek church 
 they pretend to have one of the waterpots that were filled 
 when Jesus turned the water into wine. Such pots have been 
 shown all along, and the only thing probable is that from the 
 
From Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee. 461 
 
 unchanging customs of the country it may reasonably be in- 
 ferred that the original pots were of this kind. 
 
 Passing on, the Horns of Hattin, a hill with two peaks, 
 appeared. Its peculiar shape makes it very deceiving as to 
 height. It is believed by many to be the Mount of Beati- 
 tudes; that here the Sermon on the Mount was preached, 
 and the five thousand were fed. The Crusaders first affirmed 
 it to be the spot, and it wonderfully agrees with the Bible 
 narrative. 
 
 Near where we then were the last great struggle of the Cru- 
 saders took place, eight hundred and six years ago. 
 
 It was not far from the Horns of Hattin that the Knights 
 Templars, with the Bishop of Lydda, who bore the holy cross, 
 assembled; but they were all slain or captured by the victorious 
 Saladin, since when, with occasional brief intervals, the sword 
 of Mohammed has held the Holy Land. 
 
 Riding rapidly on across the plain, which gave us the best 
 opportunity we had had since leaving Jerusalem of seeing 
 what our horses could do, with the discovery that they were 
 not equal to much, we began to have fine views of Hermon; the 
 mountains of Galilee; and finally the whole Sea of Tiberias was 
 spread out before us, a prospect very similar to that which we 
 had after leaving the Convent of Mar Saba on our way to the 
 Dead Sea. We continued to rise to the summit of the ridge, 
 and then descended almost to the lake, which was more than 
 a thousand feet below us when we had the first view of it. 
 Our destination was Tiberias, which we reached before 
 sunset, finding the camp already pitched along the shore to 
 the right of the town and half a mile below it. This was 
 Saturday evening, and where could we have had a more beau- 
 tiful place for a Sabbath rest than the shores of the Sea of 
 Galilee? 
 
 Our tents were close to the celebrated hot baths, which from 
 ancient times have been in high repute for the cure of rheu- 
 matism and similar diseases. The reputation of Tiberias is 
 not good in a sanitary point of view, the place being malarious, 
 filthy, and verminous, so that travelers generally encamp at 
 some distance from it. We were delighted with the situation 
 
 chosen. Below, at a little distance, was a party of ladies and 
 24 
 
462 Travels in Thrke Coxtinexts. 
 
 gentlemen and children from Philadelphia, Pa., among them 
 being two clergymen of the Protestant Episcopal Church. 
 Their cavalcade was large, and they traveled with the greatest 
 comfort and without haste. 
 
 Before retiring for the night we explored the little city, rid- 
 ing along the shore of the lake on an excellent road. 
 
 Some have gone into raptures over the charms of the Sea of 
 Galilee, while others have disparaged it as not having any at- 
 tractions which would make it noted were it not for its Scrip- 
 tural associations. 
 
 My impression is that in any part of the world it would be 
 thought charming. Though inferior to the Swiss lakes in 
 grandeur, and to the Italian in sweetness, and without islands, 
 yet the vivid green of the shores, the moderate height and 
 occasional abruptness of the banks, the soft blue tint of the 
 water, and the effects produced by the brilliancy of the sunlight 
 and the rapid evaporation, make a picture not to be truthfully 
 described as monotonous or otherwise than as a scene of 
 natural interest worthy the attention of poet, artist, and lover 
 of the beautiful. 
 
 Far away uprears imposing Hermon, while mountains 
 flanked by hills limit the horizon. Like Lake Geneva it is 
 exposed to sudden changes, the result of the high winds which 
 sometimes rise, and Byron's words: 
 
 " The scene is changed, and such a change! 
 O storm and night and darkness, 
 Ye are wondrous strong ! " 
 
 may find illustration here. We were not fortunate enough to 
 see a genuine storm on the lake, but the configuration explains 
 itself to every eye familiar with the storm-generating forces 
 latent in lakes that are in the vicinity of mountains, and from 
 whose shores rise irregular hills. 
 
 At night the spectacle was subduing and thought-provok- 
 ing. The starlit sky reflected in the absolutely smooth surface 
 of water gave the effect of two firmaments, and it was as easy 
 to study the heavens by looking downward as by looking into 
 the glass of a reflecting telescope. 
 
 Less than seven miles in the widest place, not more than 
 
,.'f 
 
From Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee. 465 
 
 twelve and a half miles long, shaped like a pear with its pointed 
 end to the south, is this sacred sea; seven hundred feet below 
 the level of the Mediterranean, its average depth is about one 
 hundred and sixty feet. The surrounding region is volcanic, 
 and earthquakes have been common. Fifty-three years ago 
 half the population of the city lost their lives in a terrible 
 shock which threw down the walls and many of the houses and 
 shattered the castle. 
 
 Tiberias is supposed to have been built by Herod Antipas, 
 in about the year 20 of the Christian era, in honor of Tiberius, 
 the Roman emperor. The ancient city was one of the most 
 prosperous — in fact, the chief city of Galilee. After Jerusalem 
 was destroyed it became the center of Jewish dignity, wealth, 
 and learning. Ruins are scattered for miles along the shore of 
 the lake, but require an expert to explain their significance. 
 
 At the present time nearly two thirds of the population of the 
 city are Jews. Many are from Europe, especially Poland, and 
 belong to the sect of the Ashkenazim, though the same term 
 is applied to Russian, Hungarian, Bohemian, Moravian, Ger- 
 man, and Dutch Jews. The rest belong to the sect of the 
 Sephardim — Spanish-Portuguese Jews. The Talmudists made 
 their headquarters in this place; the two famous books of the 
 Jews, the Mishna and the Masorah, were published here; and 
 for centuries the Sanhedrim convened in Tiberias. 
 
 We visited the Jewish burial ground, where distinguished 
 modern Jews are buried, especially those known as Tal- 
 mudists. One name is honored both by Jews and Christians, 
 Maimonides, who died six hundred and eighty-six years 
 ago, a man worthy to be mentioned among scholars and 
 philosophers of all ages. The others are buried in graves, but 
 his body is encased in a somewhat ornate sarcophagus. A 
 citizen gave us a tradition that when his body was brought 
 there on camels, they went round in a circle, refusing to go 
 away from the place where he is buried, or to carry the body 
 farther, from which it was inferred that Ciod miraculously 
 indicated the site for his interment! 
 
 When we had been in camp a short time a gentleman called 
 and announced that he was in Tiberias as a missionary of one of 
 the Presbyterian churches in Scotland, and on finding that we 
 
^66 Travels in Thrf.f. Continents. 
 
 were ministers, expressed an earnest desire tliat we would con- 
 duct the service on the next niorning, which was the Sabbath. 
 
 A message was received later from the adjacent tent, in- 
 forming us that the services of the Protestant Episcopal Church 
 would be read there the next morning, and inviting us to at- 
 tend. The acceptance of the former invitation made it neces- 
 sary to decline the latter. It was pleasing to have the oppor- 
 tunity for religious worship in our own language amid such 
 scenes. The service was held in a little upper room, the resi- 
 dence of the missionary, and the congregation numbered thir- 
 teen. It was a new sensation to worship within sight of the 
 sea on which Jesus walked and the shores along which were 
 wrought some of his greatest miracles. 
 
 The founding of a mission in Tiberias seems to me the most 
 hopeless work as yet undertaken by Protestantism. The Jews 
 of this city are not surpassed in bigotry in the world ; the 
 Mohammedan population is inaccessible ; the climate for a 
 considerable portion of the year is so insalubrious that the 
 missionary has to reside in Safed, a high mountain city. The 
 principles of radiation from centers of seed-sowing, modifica- 
 tion by general influences, the aid of the adherence of the gov- 
 ernment to the new religion, so useful in India, and some other 
 parts of the world, cannot be applied here; and if anything 
 important shall arise from this mission, it will be a triumph of 
 grace and perseverance. A Syrian physician, educated in the 
 Protestant College at Beirut, whom we met in the congrega- 
 tion, cautiously intimated that he thought ''some time some- 
 thing might be done. " 
 
From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 467 
 
 CHAPTER LVII. 
 From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 
 
 Four Hours upon Galilee — A Fishing Boat — Ruins of Capernaum — Vivid- 
 ness of Bible Narratives — Ain-et-Tin — Road to Banias — Encampment of 
 Bedouins— Joseph's Well— Waters of Merom — Dan — Banias— Alleged 
 Attempt at Robbery — Fountain of the Jordan — Probable Scene of the 
 Transfiguration — Druses and Maronites — Ascending Hermon — Traditional 
 Scene of Saul's Conversion. 
 
 Ix the time of Christ this little lake was the center of orreat 
 activity. Nine cities stood upon its shores. Six — the two Beth- 
 saidas, Capernaum, Chorazin, Tiberias, and Magdala — being 
 important. Now the population is small, and nothing remains 
 of these once flourishing places except huts and shapeless 
 ruins. There were three boats upon the lake; we procured 
 one and spent four hours in visiting the different points. It 
 was an uncouth craft, and though several men were employed 
 to row it, they could not make a speed of more than two and 
 a half miles per hour. At last we reached the upper end of the 
 sea, and the point where the muddy Jordan plunges in with 
 astonishing force. For more than a mile its dirty waters pol- 
 lute the lake, but it emerges from the other end as pure as the 
 sparkling Saco or the Bear Camp which Whittier describes in 
 ''Among the Hills." As we sat upon the shore we beheld in 
 fancy the long distance already traversed from the Dead Sea 
 up through the beautiful valley of the Jordan to the Sea of 
 Galilee. It is not wonderful that the Jews should revere the 
 Jordan, for there is no river like it in the world; — plunging 
 through this depressed basin, maintaining its identity as it 
 rushes through the lake, and hastening on to be forever 
 swallowed tip in the awful basaltic abyss to which the world 
 has given the appalling but truthful name — The Dead Sea. 
 
 On Galilee we witnessed a scene never to be forgotten. 
 Seven men were fishing in a rude boat; some were naked, 
 others nearly so, all bareheaded and barefooted. The bottom 
 
468 Travels in Tiirkk Continents. 
 
 of their boat was nearly covered with live lish, which they 
 had just caught. The Lake of Gennesaret to-day abounds 
 with fish of many kinds, some not usually found except in 
 tropical countries. Few are caught, because there are few 
 to catch them. How vividly this scene brought back the 
 gospel narrative. As they fished, so did Simon I'eter; as we 
 stood upon the shore and looked upon them, so did the 
 greatest One whose feet ever trod the earth stand, as he 
 said: "Children, have ye any meat?" 
 
 Had we desired, we could not have visited the shore oppo- 
 site to that upon which we were encamped; — at least without a 
 large force to protect us, it being in possession of wild, 
 marauding Bedouins. 
 
 . The ruins of Capernaum are only about two miles from the 
 Jordan. The thistles grow high enough to hide them all, but 
 to those who are willing to study patiently they speak im- 
 pressively of the things that have been, and help the Bible 
 student to recall the scenes of which he reads. Here are 
 plain indications of a synagogue, and many antiquarians 
 believe it to be the ruins of the very building in w'hich Christ 
 preached the sermon in John vi. 
 
 Chorazin is supposed to have been about two and a half 
 miles from Capernaum, and Bethsaida not very far away. 
 Jesus spent so much time at Capernaum that it was called 
 "his own city," and his opportunities of spreading the truth 
 were far greater here than they could have been in isolated 
 Nazareth. Here Jesus found Peter, James, and John; and his 
 first interview and the miracle of the astonishing, draught of 
 fishes are described in the fifth of Luke. When Jesus "went 
 into a ship and sat, and the whole multitude stood on the 
 shore," a large vessel must not be imagined, but a small boat 
 W'ith one or two sails. It was on this sea that he slept, and 
 arose and rebuked the winds of the sea; here that Peter saw 
 him walking, and essayed to go to him, but sinking cried: 
 "Lord, save, or I perish." From Capernaum Jesus sent 
 Peter down to the sea to catch " the fish that first cometh up: 
 and when thou hast opened his mouth, thou shalt find a piece of 
 money: that take, and give unto them for me and thee." 
 
 There seems to be a discrepancy between the accounts 
 
o 
 
 D 
 
 
 '^•''/'-, 
 
 
 
 ■•i - 
 
 . ^-f^ '■^wm& 
 
 
 
From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 471 
 
 given by the evangelists of the locality of the miracle where 
 the devils were allowed to go into the swine, and ran violently 
 down a steep place into the sea; and ancient manuscripts and 
 traditions do not materially assist in settling the question. 
 Some archaeologists try to make it appear that the swine had 
 a sharp gallop of about two hours before they plunged into the 
 water; others following the direct statements of Matthew have 
 no difficulty in determining the place. 
 
 Speaking generally, the gospels would serve as a guidebook 
 to the traveler upon these shores. No change has taken place 
 except in the distribution of population and the decay o{ cities. 
 I was continually astonished by the graphic descriptions of the 
 New Testament. In the two or three days we were in the 
 vicinity of the Lake of Gennesaret we were constantly 
 absorbed in the coincidences and sometimes startled by the 
 sudden vivid impressions of Bible realities with which the air, 
 the water, the hills, the sky, and the shc^res throbbed. 
 
 At night the cries of jackals and the howls of hyenas as 
 they came forth from their caverns, waking from their all-day 
 sleep after their manner, to seek their prey in darkness, re- 
 minded us even more forcibly of the half-wild character of 
 the whole region. 
 
 The second point selected for our camp was Ain-et-Tin, or 
 Fig Spring. Papyrus, of which were made the manuscripts of 
 antiquity, still grows plentifully in this vicinity. The region is 
 marshy, and, though the place is pleasant for camping on a 
 warm day, at night it becomes damp. 
 
 When we could linger no longer we took the most direct road 
 to Banias, which soon became very bad, though it is the ancient 
 caravan route from Damascus to Egypt. We passed a huge 
 encampment of agricultural Bedouins, and, for the first time, 
 saw among these ancient nomads something like living. 
 They had control or actual possession of the plain for miles, 
 their horses were fine, and the appearance of prosperity was 
 pleasant to behold. From the site of this encampment the 
 backward view included the Sea of Galilee and its shores 
 and the distant mountains which we had descended from Naz- 
 areth. The forward glance included Hermon with its white 
 glitter and Lebanon with its cedars. 
 
472 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 At the Khan Jubb Yusef (Joseph's Well) they show the pit, 
 certainly deep enough to put Joseph in, but as the Arabian geog- 
 raphers were ignorant of the situation of the Hebrews in his 
 time their opinions on this subject are worthless. 
 
 Leaving the dirty khan we soon came to the Lake Huleh 
 • region, having risen nearly a thousand feet since we left the 
 Sea of Galilee, for this lake — four and a half by three and a 
 half miles, and ten or twelve feet deep — is three hundred feet 
 above the Mediterranean. This is spoken of in Joshua xi as 
 the waters of Merom. The buffaloes of the Bedouins wallow 
 in the swamps, and pelicans, ducks, and other waterfowl are 
 numerous. Here Joshua overthrew Jabin, King of Hazor. 
 
 We took luncheon at Dan, now known as Tel-el-kadi, the 
 " Hill of the Judge," a beautiful as well as an interesting spot 
 historically. The mound is about sixty feet high, and nearly 
 a quarter of a mile wide; beneath it "bursts a beautiful crys- 
 tal spring," and a huge pine tree stands there, with charming 
 little streams running apparently free among its roots. This 
 is one of the fountains of the Jordan. The Phoenicians called 
 this place Laish. The Danites were a desperate clan. They 
 slew the people and erected the images they had stolen on the 
 way. One of the golden calves of Jeroboam was set up here, and 
 hither came Benhadad and brought the Danites into subjection. 
 
 A Mohammedan sepulcher under a magnificent oak near by 
 is an impressive object. That strange anticipative fancy 
 which many love to indulge concerning the place and circum- 
 stances of their burial, could hardly select a more attractive 
 couch than this on which to sleep the years away. 
 
 While at Dan we observed Bedouins of the better sort, who 
 were watering their horses. At a distance they appeared 
 savage, but, on scanning them narrowly, signs of a native po- 
 liteness and kindness were seen. I was particularly pleased 
 with the tenderness shown by the women to their infants. 
 Children everywhere are cheerful if in health, and the faces of 
 these little Bedouins needed only washing to compare well with 
 those of boys and girls anywhere. 
 
 When we left Dan we passed out of Palestine. As we 
 began to ascend Hermon. scenes of singular beaut}^ and 
 freshness came into view; brooks emerging from deep, green 
 
From the Sea of Galilee to Hermox. 473 
 
 woods; here and there an incipient cataract, filling the 
 groves with melodious rhythm ; breezes rustling among the 
 leaves, mingled with the songs of birds; wild flowers of every 
 hue, exhaling a fragrance which brought back the sweet per- 
 fume of the early buds of spring in the far-off home beyond 
 the great deep. 
 
 That night we encamped at Banias, having ascended nearly 
 five hundred feet in perpendicular height since starting from 
 Dan. It lies between two valleys, and near a third; hence it 
 has been called " a triangular terrace in a nuok of the Hermon 
 mountains." The slope is cultivated nearl)' all the way from 
 the plain, and the abundance of water in that climate covers 
 the entire region either with woods or other forms of vegetable 
 life, reminding one of the vales and hills of Ireland. 
 
 The ancient name of Banias was Paneas, and there are his- 
 toric remains of a civilization other than that of the Hebrews 
 and the Phoenicians. Originally it was the name of a district 
 which fell to Philip the Tetrarch, the son of Herod, who added 
 to it and called it Cssarea; the word Philippi was appended 
 both to honor him and to distinguish it from the Caesarea in 
 Palestine, upon the INIediterranean. At present it is a village 
 of sixty or seventy houses, a center of trade to the surrounding 
 country, and we were interested in looking into the stores 
 where Manchester prints are sold, and an assortment of other 
 familiar articles. Ruins are numerous, and far above towers a 
 castle, more than a thousand feet long, whose foundations are 
 of large blocks beautifullv wrought. On one side the wall is 
 built on a precipice six hundred feet high. Near Banias are 
 the ruins of a temple of Pan. 
 
 While we were sleeping, the Turkish guard suddenly began 
 firing and aroused the encampment. According to his tale 
 two men were attempting to enter the tent to steal. One of 
 our friends had been robbed a few nights before. His wife 
 had wrapped her jewels in a skirt, which was stolen; but the 
 thieves, not having any appreciation of Western feminine ap- 
 parel, threw it away. Some one found and brought it back a 
 day or two afterward, with its contents, worth severa.l thou- 
 sand dollars, untouched. Whether there was an attempt to 
 rob us we could not be certain. The guard may have desired 
 
474 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 to elevate himself in our eyes in order to receive a reward for 
 watchfulness. Such marauding attacks are not uncommon, 
 and without bribing the ofificials it is difficult to secure the 
 making of vigilant efforts to capture the thieves or recover the 
 property. 
 
 ^Ve climbed to the entrance of the cavern from which bursts 
 forth one of the chief sources of the Jordan. Near it are 
 ancient niches, a few being in the form of shells. Over one is 
 an inscription in Greek: "Priest of Pan." We cannot find a 
 specific connection between Banias and Bible history, but there 
 are several passages which indicate that Joshua's victories in- 
 cluded this region. Biblical geographers consider Baal-Gad 
 the same as Baal-Hermon, a title which shows that long before 
 Crreek times Baal was worshiped here. After Titus destroyed 
 Jerusalem he came here and celebrated his victory with gladi- 
 atorial combats, in which Jews fought with wild beasts and 
 with each other. During the Crusades it was the rallying 
 place for Christians, and was frequently captured, but was 
 conquered by them later, and again retaken by the ^Sloham- 
 medans. 
 
 The grotto from which the fountain of the Jordan gushes 
 through upland meadows of mint and oleander thickets, re- 
 sembles an artificial excavation somewhat in ruins. Masses of 
 broken rocks render the entrance almost impassable, and al- 
 most hide it; but underneath these it forms a kind of arch. 
 Those who cannot go there may find analogies in the sources 
 of the San Antonio and San Pedro Rivers, of Texas; the Hud- 
 son and the Delaware give suggestions to those willing to 
 penetrate to their springs — the former in the heart of the 
 Adirondacks, the latter in the region of the Catskills. 
 
 The rush of the Jordan fountains is vastly greater than these 
 last, though the Texas rivers lack only the grotto and the ele- 
 vation to complete the parallel. Much more water flows forth 
 at Dan than here, but it does not unite with these fountains 
 throug-h anv well-marked channel. The water from Banias 
 unites with two other sources four or five miles below Dan. 
 The river thus formed is, at the confluence, about forty-five 
 feet wide. As all the water which flows from under the hill at 
 Dan finds its way into the plain and thence into the other 
 
From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 475 
 
 streams indirecth% the sources of the Jordan are the fountain 
 at Eanias, the Hashbanny which rises " hij^her up in the moun- 
 tains, "and the fountain at Dan. Josephus always speaks of 
 the last named as '"the little Jordan," and it has been long 
 emphasized in common language as the source, since it pro- 
 duces more water than the other two; but the height from 
 which they start gives an impetus which maintains their 
 separate streams. 
 
 We had now followed the sacred river of the Jews from its 
 grave in the Dead Sea to its birthplace far up among the moun- 
 tains of Hermon. Every simile that poet could desire is 
 here — fountains, tributaries, brooklets, cataracts, "stormy 
 banks," "swellings," swift, resistless current, treacherous 
 depths, quicksands, the blue, placid, but deceitful lake, inun- 
 dations, wooded shores, now pellucid and again turbid waters, 
 and last the dreadful sulphurous saline abyss, fitly named the 
 Dead Sea. 
 
 A\'hile Old Testament references are vague, those of the New 
 are quite distinct. It w^as at C?esarea Philippi — that is, in this 
 immediate vicinity — that Jesus asked his disciples, saying: 
 "Whom do men say that I the Son of man am?" and here 
 that Simon Peter answered and said: "Thou art the Christ, 
 the Son of the living God;" here that Jesus said: "I say also 
 unto thee. That thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build 
 my church; and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it." 
 Whether Jesus came into the city cannot be ascertained. 
 Near it was a mighty rock, upon which the temple of Augustus, 
 which Herod the Great had erected, then stood, above the 
 source of the Jordan. Inscribed around the majestic dome of 
 St. Peter's at Rome are these words in mosaic: '■'■Tii cs Pctnis 
 et super hanc petram cedificabo ecclesiam Jtieatn, et tibi dabo claves 
 regiii ccelonnn" ("Thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will 
 build my Church, and I give to thee the keys of the kingdom of 
 heaven "). It is thought by some that this inscription may 
 have been suggested by this rock, which also may have influ- 
 enced the form of the conversation. The Transfiguration is 
 by most modern critics believed to have taken place here. 
 The earliest traditions unquestionably placed it on Tabor; and 
 even those who cannot acquiesce in that opinion have agreed 
 
476 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 that no mountain would so fully "satisfy our feelings in this 
 respect as the lofty, majestic, beautiful Tabor." it is ob- 
 jected that so early as the time when Tabor fell into the hands 
 of the Israelites, recorded in the Book of Joshua, it was occu- 
 pied by a town and by fortresses; and Josephus declares that 
 he strengthened the fortification of a city there about A. 1). 60. 
 By the side of these statements is placed the account of the 
 Transfiguration, which says that "Jesus took his disciples up 
 into a high mountain apart, and was transfigured before them." 
 From Matt, xvii we would infer that it was upon the summit. 
 What, now, is to be said for Cassarea Philippi ? The chief point 
 made is that our Lord's miracle immediately preceding was at 
 that place. Matt, xvi, 3, represents him as coming into the 
 coasts of Cfesarea Philippi. Mark viii, 27, also places him there. 
 
 Mount Tabor is a little more than fifty miles from Mount 
 Hermon. If our Lord were represented as ascending the 
 Mount of Transfiguration immediately after the miracle which 
 he performed in Cassarea Philippi, the case would be c!e ir 
 against Tabor; but Matthew (xvii, i) says: "And after six 
 days Jesus taketh Peter, James, and John his brother, and 
 bringeth them up into an high mountain apart. " Mark uses the 
 same expression, except "leadeth them up into an high moun- 
 tain apart by themselves." Luke says: "About an eight days 
 after these sayings, he took " them. There was ample time for 
 the journey to Tabor; an average walk of nine miles a day 
 would have accomplished it. As for the fortifications on 
 Tabor, it is not certain or even probable that no solitary spot 
 upon the extreme summit existed where the scene could have 
 taken place privately. The almost inaccessible summits of 
 Hermon tower more than seven thousand feet above Caesarea 
 Philippi, and the language of the gospels represents a separate 
 mountain, and an ascent of it. 
 
 Though the question cannot be decided positively, the proba- 
 bilities seem stronger for Tabor than for the vicinity of Banias. 
 
 The advocates of the former may sing: 
 
 "When, in ecstasy sublime, 
 Tabor's glorious steep T climb, 
 At the too transporting light. 
 Darkness rushes o'er my sight." 
 
From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 
 Those who prefer the latter may chant: 
 
 " O Master, it is good to be 
 Entianced, enrapt, alone with thee ; 
 And watch thy glistering raiment glow 
 Whiter than Mermon's whitest snow." 
 
 477 
 
 --0 'L_ I'S^H 
 
 Mount HerrTiOn. 
 
 It was a steady climb up the slope of Hermon over bad 
 roads. As we descended, a romantic object came in sight — a 
 mill in the outskirts of a Druse village, Mejdel, in a plantation 
 of silver poplars. These are a mysterious people, and to- 
 gether with the Maronites, their traditional foes, are frequently 
 spoken of in dispatches concerning Syrian troubles. Their 
 reciprocal hatred is historical. 
 
 The Druses are a sect of Mohammedans, founded by 
 Hakem, a native of Cairo, a Fatimite Caliph. 
 
 I met a Druse, but could not draw much solid information 
 from him. Draping all their forms in mystery, and employing 
 figurative language, they exert a great influence upon their fol- 
 
478 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 lowers by successive degrees of iniLiation. Among other 
 strange things which they believe are the doctrine of the trans- 
 migration of souls, and the notion that there is always the 
 same number of men living in the world. Tobacco they utterly 
 renounce and prohibit. They worship in solitary chapels, 
 whose location is chosen in desolate places, and personally 
 they are ambitious, brave, hospitable, and amiable. Many 
 have departed from the region through which we were passing, 
 and settled in the Hauran Mountains. 
 
 Maronites form a curious Roman Catholic sect, dating from 
 400, but they were not wholly subjected by the Roman 
 Catholics until about three hundred years ago, and have 
 always demanded and received special privileges from the 
 pope. The lower clergy are allowed to marry, and instead of 
 reading mass in Latin they are allowed to read it in Syrian. 
 Intellectually they have attained little development, but are 
 energetic. I procured one of their catechisms, and it is upon 
 a plan which leaves little or nothing to choose between them 
 and their enemies. The Roman Catholics have been endeav- 
 oring to induce them to say mass in Latin, and the graduates 
 of the Maronite College in Rome comply with the instruction, 
 except in the reading of the gospel, which is in Arabic. 
 
 In i860 the Druses attacked them with fury, and though far 
 inferior in numbers destroyed their capital and massacred many. 
 
 Hermon is worthy of the title of the Mont Blanc of Pal- 
 estine, for it extends about twenty miles and is divided into 
 three peaks, the highest of which rises ten thousand feet above 
 the level of the sea — a solid mass of limestone with layers of 
 chalk, the greater part of it covered with snow. As formerly, 
 the snow of Hermon is used to cool summer beverages. Leb- 
 anon is a few hundred feet higher, but its position is less com- 
 manding. 
 
 We proceeded on our way to Damascus. Ascending and 
 descending, never out of sight of this white dome, turning 
 our eyes from beautiful flowers to volcanic rocks, and from 
 these to curious piles of stone marking the sites of ancient 
 villao-es: and from these to varieties of trees which we had not 
 noticed before in Syria, among them myrtles; and again to ex- 
 tinct craters, until finally the plain, bathed in the light of the 
 
From the Sea of Galilee to Hermon. 479 
 
 midday sun, burst upon our gaze; now resembling the deserts 
 of Egypt as seen from the summit of the Great Pyramid, and 
 then a prairie of greenest hue, and as the point of view was 
 changed seeming like Lake Superior on a calm day. 
 
 Our midday meal was partaken of under the shadow of a 
 great rock. A portion of the way led along the course of a 
 brook, a tributary of the ancient Pharpar. Our camp was 
 pitched at Kefr-Hawar, and early the next morning we re- 
 sumed the march. 
 
 The journey across the plain was the most wearisome yet 
 experienced in Asia, and the most exhausting since leaving 
 home. Unwisely we resolved to reach Damascus before din- 
 ner, and this involved seven hours in the saddle on a burning 
 desert destitute of shade, with the temperature that of the 
 hottest July or August day in this country. We came to the 
 road built by the Romans from Damascus to Palestine and 
 Egypt. Villages surrounded by orchards and vineyards break 
 the monotony ; and we crossed a beautiful river, called the 
 Nahr-Barbar, believed to be a corruption of the ancient 
 Pharpar. 
 
 The point of intersection of our path with the old Roman 
 road is traditionally held, and with probable reason, to be the 
 spot described in these words: "And as he journeyed, he 
 came near Damascus: and suddenly there shined round about 
 him a light from heaven: and he fell to the earth, and heard- 
 a voice saying unto him, Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou 
 me? . . . And the Lord said unto him. Arise, and go into the 
 city, and it shall be told thee what thou must do. . . . And 
 Saul arose from the earth; and when his eyes were opened, he 
 saw no man : but they led him by the hand, and brought him 
 into Damascus." Drawing near the city everything under- 
 went a change: sparkling streams, the plain "with verdure 
 clad," the white minarets and mosques made one feel as if 
 he were approaching an enchanted city. But the heat was so 
 terrible, that, fearing sunstroke, I dismounted to bathe my 
 head in the cool and refreshing waters flowing down from 
 Hermon. These dissipated the alarming symptoms, and at 
 3 p. j>i. we reached the city gate. 
 25 
 
4S0 Travels ix '1'hree Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LVIII. 
 
 Damascus. 
 
 Antiquity and Beauty of the City — History of the Great Mosque — Mas- 
 sacre of the Christians — The Street that is Called Straight — Improb- 
 able Legends — Protestant Mission — Grave of Henry Thomas IJuckle — 
 Salahiyeh. 
 
 Damascus was an old city in the time of Abraham, whose 
 prayer is recorded in Gen. xv: "Lord God, what wilt thou 
 give me, seeing I go childless, and the steward of my house 
 is this Eliezer of Damascus? " Tradition makes it much older, 
 locating the murder of Abel at this place, to which Shakespeare 
 refers in " King Henry VI : " 
 
 " Winch 1-:STER : Nay, stand thou back ; 
 I'll not budge a foot ; 
 This be Damascus, be thou cursed Cain 
 To slav thv brother Abel, if thou wilt." 
 
 David conquered it in a bloody war, described in 2 Samuel. 
 Elijah and Elisha frequently visited it, and the Books of 
 Samuel and Kings abound with accounts of wars between the 
 Israelites and the Damascenes. Ezekiel describes its great 
 prosperity in the vision of Tyre: "Damascus was thy mer- 
 chant in the multitude of the wares of thy making, for the 
 multitude of all riches; in the wine of Helbon, and white 
 wool." It obtains its beauty and fertility from "the streams 
 from Lebanon." 
 
 Next to the relation of Paul to Damascus, the story of the 
 interview between Elisha and Naaman invests it with interest 
 to the Bible student. He had good reason to say, "Are not 
 Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than all the 
 waters of Israel? may I not wash in them, and be clean? " 
 No doubt since that time these rivers have changed their 
 channels, like all streams in plains and deserts, but the con- 
 figuration of the country and the sources of the streams, as in 
 
D 
 
 p 
 
 3 
 
 M 
 O 
 
 c 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 o 
 
 CD 
 
 3 
 
Damascus. 483 
 
 the Mississippi and the Nile, are such as to show that these 
 rivers are essentially the same as those spoken of in the Bible 
 as situated here. The Arabians have always considered Da- 
 mascus as the best earthly type of Paradise. Its situation, 
 streams, and fruits harmonize with the description in the 
 Koran. The city is charming and imposing, lying on the 
 edge of a desert nearly half a mile above the sea level, and 
 bounded on the other sides by mountains. 
 
 To the northward is the range of Anti-Libanus opposed on 
 the west by Mount Hermon, dwarfing the volcanic mountains 
 in the south. 
 
 The lakes which are near and the streams running through 
 the city are filled with water of unusual clearness. One of the 
 rivers divides into seven branches, two filling the conduits 
 that supply the city, and the others watering suburban 
 orchards. 
 
 Like most oriental cities Damascus is divided into quarters, 
 Jews, Christians, and Moslems living separately. In general 
 character Damascus is similar to Cairo; the bazaars are at- 
 tractive features to strangers, for in them the products of the 
 East are displayed, and mechanics may be seen at work. 
 
 I went to the horse market, but could not find any of the 
 magnificent animals such as in ancient times were common 
 in Syria, and doubt whether the Arabians ever had finer 
 horses than are raised in Kentucky. The saddle market is a 
 gay display, as the Syrians always made much of decorations of 
 that kind. We had been put on our guard against the dealers 
 who begin by demanding extortionate prices, sometimes finally 
 selling the goods for less than a quarter of what was at first 
 charged. The glory of the Damascus blade has departed, 
 and the daggers sold are said to be made of an inferior article 
 of steel brought from Germany. The tobacco-using habits of 
 the people cause a demand for all kinds of pipes, the stems of 
 which are of cork. 
 
 An extensive business is done in the sale of the fez. By a 
 small investment we transformed ourselves into Turks, but 
 found the caps too warm for use. One of the things which 
 surprise strangers is that in that hot climate men will wear a 
 form of head-covering giving no protection to the eyes and 
 
484 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 warm enough fur the cultl days of an American winter. None 
 of the merchants are in haste; all who were ntJt busy were 
 smoking, praying, readini; the Koran, or conversing. They 
 appeared to be on good terms with each other, but are united 
 in a desire to allure to the utmost possible extent unwary 
 travelers. 
 
 Mohammedan fatalism has some curious features, one of 
 which is mentioned by Baedeker, who says there is no 
 jealousy between rival venders of similar wares. If one who 
 has nothing to do sees another driving a fine trade he simply 
 saj^s: "Allah has sent a good customer to my neighbor, and 
 will in due time send me one also." An extensive business is 
 done in clothing, as the people sleep in their clothes and soon 
 wear them out. Barbers work in the open air, whether they 
 are shaving or bleeding; for wdien a native feels ill he steps 
 into a barber's shop and submits to phlebotomy to the extent 
 of half a pint or more, after which he departs with the con- 
 viction that he must be better. 
 
 The tombs of three of Mohammed's wives are in the Da- 
 mascus burying ground, and the view of the city from that 
 cemetery is one of the best. Probably the largest plane tree in 
 the world is on the river bank near the Saddlers' Bazaar. The 
 trunk is more than four yards in diameter. 
 
 Where the Great Mosque now stands there once was a 
 heathen temple in which pagan rites were performed until the 
 growth of Christianity caused it to fall into decay, but about 
 the beginning of the fifth century it was restored and trans- 
 formed into a church. Its managers said they had the head of 
 John the Baptist— one of the many heads of John that are in 
 different parts of the world. After Mohammedanism arose the 
 eastern part of the church Avas taken possession of by them, 
 and for years the western left to the Christians. Finally it was 
 taken by the Mohammedans, and this mosque erected upon the 
 foundations. Ferguson gives an account of the seizure. The 
 Caliph entered the church with guards and ordered them to re- 
 move or destroy every vestige of Christian worship, and standing 
 upon the altar, he directed the work. There being an image of 
 Christ near, one of his followers said: " Prince of the Faithful, 
 I tremble for your safety; the power of that image against 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 O 
 
 n 
 P 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 f 
 
 
 - ', r 
 
 I 1~ J 
 
 ' ■ ) 
 
 4'^^. '%■■ 
 
 ' UJ; J 
 
 ^■i____^..ji^H 
 
Damascus. 487 
 
 which you lean may be exerted against you." " Fear not for 
 me, " replied the proud Moslem, "for the very first spot on 
 which 1 shall lay my battle-ax will be that image's head." 
 Thus saying he lifted his weapon and dashed the idol to pieces. 
 The Christians raised a cry of horror, but their voices were 
 drowned in the triumphant shout '' U/lah-u-Akbar." The Ara- 
 bians pretend that supernatural beings assisted in erecting the 
 church, and (which has some foundation) that one thousand 
 two hundred Greek artists were brought from Constantinople 
 to decorate it. In its grandest days six hundred golden lamps 
 hung from the ceiling. The mosque is four hundred and 
 twentv-nine feet long and one hundred and twentv-four and a 
 half feet wide. As the wall was not entirely destroyed, what 
 was left is a part of the mosque, on which is written an ancient 
 inscription in Greek: " Thy kingdom, O Christ, is an everlast- 
 ing kingdom, and thy dominion endureth throughout all gen- 
 erations," a quotation from the 145th Psalm, with the words 
 " O Christ " inserted. 
 
 Saladin, whose virtues were recognized even by the Chris- 
 tians while they were terrified by his power and overthrown 
 by his victories, is counted among the Mohammedan saints. 
 It was Saladin who took Damascus, Aleppo, Diarbekir, drove 
 back Renaud de Chatillon, and defeated the Christian army at 
 Tiberias, captured Guy de Lusignan, who called himself King 
 of Jerusalem, finally besieged and took Jerusalem and drove all 
 the Franks from the country. It was he who took the gold 
 cross from the dome of the Mosque of Omar and purified the 
 edifice with rose water, and reconverted it from a Christian 
 church to a Mohammedan sanctuary. Not till Richard I dis- 
 tinguished himself by the exploits which gave him the name of 
 Coeur de Lion, did he meet a serious check. Saladin was un- 
 doubtedly the greatest warrior that Mohammedanism has 
 produced, and equally distinguished for "temperance and 
 chastity, humanity and generosity, patience and affability;" 
 wherever he went he built hospitals, colleges, and mosques. 
 His tomb is in a perfect state of preservation. 
 
 Of all wars since the classic times the Crusades are the 
 most romantic and best adapted to stir enthusiasm in the 
 young. 
 
488 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 On the ninth day of July, i860, the Christian (iuarler was set 
 on fire; the whole Mohammedan i-)()pulati(jn was in a state of 
 wikl excitement; hordes of fanatics, Kurds, Arabs, and Druses 
 flocked to the city, and for twenty-four hours murder was 
 systematically and furiously committed. Six thousand were 
 killed, and the grossest outrages perpetrated upon their wives 
 and daughters. The streets were blocked with the bodies of 
 the slain, and had it not been for the courage of Abd-el-Kader 
 they would have all been destroyed. I received accounts of 
 the dreadful scenes from some who were in the city at the 
 time. 
 
 Beneath the affable aspect which the ordinary Mohammedan 
 presents when he wishes to make a sale, or expects any advan- 
 tage, lurks a fanaticism that would find vent in deeds of in- 
 credible atrocity were it not for the military stationed there, 
 and the fear the people feel of foreign powers. 
 
 And the Lord said unto Ananias, "Arise, and go into the 
 street which is called Straight, and inquire in the house of 
 Judas for one called Saul, of Tarsus." Unquestionably we saw 
 the same street, although it is not quite straight, and was form- 
 erlv wider than it now is. It is more than a mile in length, 
 and ornamented with a colonnade of which traces remain. We 
 visited the supposed house, which is converted into a church. 
 The mythical house of Ananias is shown in another part of the 
 city. The abode of Naaman is pointed out without a vestige 
 of probability for the statement, but there is a propriety in 
 its being a leper hospital. Several hospitals for these poor 
 wretches exist in Damascus; there thev sit, dving as thev live, 
 suffering the horrors of decomposition before the vital spark 
 is extinct. Vet marvelous are the susceptibilities of human 
 nature : they chat and laugh, and appear happy. 
 
 Another adventure of St. Paul took place here, given in his 
 own words: "In Damascus the governor under Aretas the 
 king kept the city of the Damascenes with a garrison, desirous 
 to apprehend me: and through a window in a basket was I let 
 down by the wall, and escaped his hands." There is a gate in 
 the wall of the city, Bab-kisan, which has been closed for seven 
 hundred years, and tradition says that this was the place where 
 St. Paul was thus let down. There are many houses along 
 
Damascus. 489 
 
 the wall where such a thing could have been done. Not con- 
 tent with this, they exhibit a tomb under drooping trees which 
 they call the tomb of St. George. This St. George is the 
 man who helped Paul to escape, and lost his life for his part 
 in the matter! 
 
 ^\'hile in Damascus we had the pleasure of several inter- 
 views with the head of the Protestant Mission, the Rev. John 
 Crawford, whom we found to be highly respected and beloved. 
 The mission is doing a good work, and the influence of 
 Mr. Crawford and his family is excellent. 
 
 Accompanied by him we visited the Protestant cemetery, 
 a small inclosure kept under luck and key. After trying fcjr 
 years to secure the privilege of a piece of ground for this 
 purpose, wearied with the delays of the Turkish government, 
 the Christians took possession of it, and no objection has ever 
 been urged. 
 
 Henry Thomas Buckle, the historian and political writer, is 
 buried in Damascus. He went to the East, in the autumn of 
 
 1861, in the hope of improving his health, which had always 
 been delicate. The epitaph is brief: "In memory of Henry 
 Thomas Buckle (only son of the late Thomas Buckle, and 
 Jane, his wife), who died of fever in Damascus on May 29, 
 
 1862, aged 40 years. This stone is most affectionately dedi- 
 cated by his loving and only surviving sister. ' 1 know that 
 he shall rise again.'" 
 
 Jobar is only about half an hour's walk from the city, and 
 the scenery along the road is indescribably beautiful. The 
 place is inhabited entirely by Mohammedans, and is of no in- 
 terest except for its traditions. 
 
 The oldest point of contact between this suburb and the 
 Old Testament is in the declaration that when Abram rescued 
 Lot from the kings he " smote them, and pursued them unto 
 Hobah, which is on the left hand of Damascus." 
 
 Mohammedan legends cluster about Salahiyeh. In the hills 
 near it are buried thousands of Mohammedan saints. There 
 Mohammed himself, while yet a camel driver from Mecca, 
 gazed upon the entrancing scene, and turned away without 
 entering the city, saying: " Man can have but one paradise, 
 and my paradise is fixed above." They also hold that near 
 
490 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 this spot the unity of God was revealed to Abraham. The 
 finest view we had of the suburbs was from a point halfway 
 ■ up an absolutely barren hill, three or four miles from the center 
 of the city. Conybeare and Howson's Life and Epistles of St. 
 I'aui contains an admirable description of Damascus; and the 
 authors are not extravagant in saying that " for miles round 
 it is a wilderness of gardens — gardens with roses among the 
 tangled shrubberies, and with fruit on the branches overhead, 
 f.verywhere among the trees is heard the murmur of unseen 
 rivulets. Even in the city, which is in the midst of the 
 gardens, the clear rushing of the currents is a perpetual re- 
 freshment. Every dwelling has its fountain, and at night, 
 when the sun has set behind Mount Lebanon, the lights of 
 the city flash on the waters. " 
 
Damascus to Beirut. 491 
 
 CHAPTER LIX. 
 Damascus to Beirut. 
 
 Varieties of Weather and Scenery — Through the Lebanon Pass — Unique 
 Lunatic Asyhim — Origin and Situation of Beirut — Syrian Protestant College 
 — Other Christian Missions— Grave of Bishop Kingsley. 
 
 At Damascus we dismissed our caravan, separated from 
 Selim, to whom we had become much attached, and took the 
 diligence for Beirut (Beyroot). 
 
 Wherever the French build roads, the traveler is happy 
 whether he walks or rides, for they are the best road builders in 
 the world. When, as the guardians of Roman Catholic inter- 
 ests during the disturbances in i860, the PYench, to protect 
 the Christians, sent forces there and occupied the country, 
 they built a magnificent carriage road from Damascus to Bei- 
 rut, and one may take the journey of seventy miles between 
 5:20 A. M. and 5:30 p. M., or between half past seven at night 
 and half past eight in the morning. Horses are frequently 
 changed, which affords ample time to study the country. 
 
 The day of our journey gave us every variety of climate: 
 the heat of summer and the shivering cold of winter, with 
 blinding snow. Like every other path leading out of Damas- 
 cus, the way led through gardens and conduits, the landscape 
 being adorned with trees of rare beauty. The villas were 
 handsome; a small one is known as that of Abd-el-Kader, who, 
 after he was defeated by the French, received a pension and 
 was allowed to live there on condition of not leaving the dis- 
 trict of Damascus. 
 
 After three or four miles we reached the desert. At six 
 miles we changed horses, and entered upon a fine tract watered 
 by the Barada; but when we had ridden six or eight miles more 
 we came to a desolate wilderness, a portion of which is elevated 
 and used for encampments and reviews of the Damascus troops. 
 Hermon, Lebanon, and other magnificent mountains appeared 
 on either side; broad table-lands; wild glens several miles long. 
 
49- Travels i.\ TnKiac Coxiinents. 
 
 with legends of bandiui; dull valleys and steep ascents were 
 traversed. On leaving the village of Shtora, whence the 
 road diverges to Baalbec, we ascended to^the Lebanon pass, 
 five thousand six hundred feet above the sea. Behind were 
 wild and barren mountains, and before us the path by which 
 we were to descend to Beirut. The houses of that city showed 
 far aw-ay as white specks upon a blue ground: that blue was 
 the Mediterranean, which we had last looked upon from the 
 mountains of Palestine. 
 
 Half a day's ride from this point is a lunatic asylum that has 
 no parallel. It is in the village of Karyaten, and only the Bed- 
 ouins patronize it. The process of cure is peculiar; a mixture 
 of faith and works, and it is managed with as much shrewdness 
 as the Christian science and faith healing operations of this 
 country. The patient is bound and confined in a room by 
 himself for a single night; the next morning he is found cured 
 and without his fetters. The marvelous superiority of this 
 method over all others is seen in this; that if he omits to pay 
 for his miraculous recovery he at once relapses into insanity. 
 
 On arriving in Beirut we were met by Mr. McFadden, who 
 had been left in the hospital at Cairo. After several weeks of 
 sickness and debility, he had recovered sufificiently to make 
 the journey by sea. Disease had changed him, but the hope 
 and the pleasure of meeting friends put fresh color into his 
 cheeks, and in three weeks from that day he seemed in better 
 health than before the attack. 
 
 Beirut was founded by the Phoenicians, and was important 
 in the time of Alexander the Great. To-day it is the most 
 important seaport and commercial town in all Syria, beauti- 
 ful in situation, surrounded by mountains, some snow-clad, 
 and forming a striking contrast with the sea. In the last thirty 
 years the population has quadrupled, and now amounts to 
 more than eighty thousand. 
 
 The Syrian Protestant College presents missions at their 
 best, and we were afforded every facility to examine them. 
 Each of us being acquainted with President Bliss, or one or 
 more of the faculty, we enjoyed a rest and refreshment of sev- 
 eral davs in Beirut, which affected us as favorablv as did the 
 encampment at Elim the Israelites. 
 
DO 
 
 ...J 
 
Damascus to Beirut. 495 
 
 The American Mission has been established in Syria for 
 more than fifty years, and the names of Dr. Thomson, author 
 of The Land and the Book, Dr. Eli Smith, and Dr. Van Dyke 
 are known throughout the Christian world. The college was 
 opened in 1866, though a preparatory class had been formed 
 the year before. It has a complete system of buildings, among 
 which is the Ada Dodge Memorial Hall, erected for the use of 
 the preparatory department by the Rev. D. Stuart Dodge, son 
 of William E. Dodge of New York. The president lives in a 
 fine structure known, from its donor, as the Marquand House. 
 
 When we were there, there were about one hundred stu- 
 dents in the preparatory department, and sixty-five in the col- 
 legiate. Few American colleges have so fine a system of 
 buildings, and none a more magnificent site. One was de- 
 lightfully reminded of home by the Alcott collection of two 
 thousand species of the plants of the Eastern and Northern 
 States of America. We heard Dr. George F. Post, who has 
 the reputation of being the best physician in Syria, lecture to 
 the medical students on botany. 
 
 I had the pleasure of calling upon Dr. Van Dyke on the 
 fiftieth anniversary of his arrival in Syria. This distinguished 
 man went there originally as a medical missionary, but has be- 
 come famous in the world of scholars and linguists because of 
 his translation of the Bible into Arabic. 
 
 Beirut is the center of mission work which extends into the 
 regions round about, and is superintended efificiently. 
 
 The cemetery near the church contains the tombs of some 
 of the godly men who laid the foundations of this mission. 
 The church, an imposing building, is well attended. 
 
 At the college we met the Hon. Edward L. Pierce, of Bos- 
 ton, the biographer of Charles Sumner, and formerly one of the 
 professors of the Boston University Law School, and an hour 
 was well spent at the hospital witnessing surgical operations 
 performed by Professor Post, who, surrounded by students, 
 relieved the sufferings of the sick and maimed. 
 
 There are other Christian missions in Beirut. The British 
 Syrian institutions have their headquarters there, and in the dis- 
 trict which they cultivate are schools containing nearly one thou- 
 sand pupils. The Roman Catholics have an orphanage which 
 
496 Travels i.\ Three Continents. 
 
 will accommodate six hundred, and sustain day and boarding 
 schools. Another is known as the Dames de Nazareth. The 
 German Jesuits sustain places of instruction; and a fine orphan- 
 age and school with a chapel, in which French and German 
 services are alternately conducted, exists. A very interesting 
 school is conducted by a learned Arab. 
 
 Compared with the present prosperity of the Syrian Protes- 
 tant Mission, the early struggles of the missionaries to Syria 
 form a contrast as great as that between the sufferings of the 
 Pilgrim Fathers and the present condition of New England. 
 A magnificent presentation of Western civilization is made to- 
 day in the presence of the Mohammedan world. 
 
 At a little distance the heroic aspect of missionary work 
 still appears, and the results of preaching the Gospel in the 
 mountains of Lebanon and in the villages of the plains, as well 
 as the self-denial and isolation necessary to accomplish it, can 
 be seen in less tlian two days' journey. 
 
 Before leaving Beirut I visited the grave of Bishop Kingsley 
 of the Methodist Episcopal Church, who died there, April 6, 
 1870, when returning from an episcopal tour through the 
 missions of his Church in China and India. 
 
Cyprus and Noted Islands of the .'Egean Sea. 497 
 
 CHAPTER LX. 
 
 Cyprus and Noted Islands of the ^Egean Sea. 
 
 Cyprus — Lanarca — Greek Church of St. Lazarus — Rliodes — The Colossus — 
 Symi — Kos, Birthplace of Apelles, Hippocrates, and Simonides — The Rock 
 Island, Patmos — Classic Interest of Samos — Scio. 
 
 Again the time had come to trust ourselves to the capricious 
 mercies and severities of the Mediterranean, and bidding the 
 mainland of Asia a teinporary farewell we took the steamship 
 for the island of Cyprus. The voyage consumed twelve hours. 
 Father Stephanos, whom we had met in Jerusalem, and who 
 had acted as interpreter in our conversation with the Greek 
 patriarch, was on board with some co-ecclesiastics, and we found 
 in him a frankness in criticising his Church, and especially its 
 politico-ecclesiastical manipulation, which demonstrated that 
 it does not control the tongues of its ministers. No doubt, 
 however, with Greek facility he could explain to the satisfac- 
 tion of the authorities everything he said. I shall not make 
 him responsible for any particular statements, not having 
 warned him that he was being interviewed for publication, and 
 being well aware that in all sects many feel free to criticise, in 
 conversation with strangers, points which they would defend if 
 attacked from without. 
 
 We went on shore at Lanarca, the capital, and saw so much 
 of it as was possible during the time allowed before sailing. 
 The island of Cyprus contains 3,723 square miles, and a pop- 
 ulation of 186,000; 125,000 of these are professedly Christians, 
 and speak the Greek language. Glimpses of the mountain 
 ranges which traverse the island, one parallel with the north 
 and the other with the south coast, could be seen, and a few 
 of the fever-breeding marshes that have brought the climate 
 into disrepute. Bad harbors, frequent droughts, and inef- 
 ficient government, together with neglect and want of drain- 
 age and cultivation, have kept poor one of the most fertile 
 islands in the Mediterranean. There is a marked contrast 
 
49S Travkls IX Three Ccjntinents. 
 
 between its population to-day and that of ancient times. 
 Then two million people lived and prospered upcni it. Two 
 sorts of fevers — ague and remittent — keep many of the inhab- 
 itants sick, unless they have the ability and the means to move 
 from point to point according to the climate. Little remains 
 of the old forests, or of the cedars, which are said to have sur- 
 passed even those of Lebanon. 
 
 Colonized by the Phoenicians, the Syrians, Greeks, Egyp- 
 tians, Persians, and Romans successively held it. 
 
 Cyprus swords were so valued that Alexander the Great 
 wore one presented to him by a king. On this island Solon 
 spent the closing years of his life. In comparatively modern 
 times it was a place of importance, and at the close of the 
 twelfth century was conquered by Richard Coeur de Lion, who 
 called himself King of Cyprus. In 1878 it came under the 
 control of Great Britain. 
 
 Barnabas, "the son of consolation," was a native of Cyprus. 
 Some of those that were scattered abroad after the persecution 
 of Stephen went as far as Cyprus. When Barnabas and Paul 
 were sent forth by the disciples they went there. After 
 they separated because of contention about Mark, Barnabas 
 took Mark and sailed to Cyprus; and when Paul sailed from 
 Patara he left this island on the left hand, on his way to Syria. 
 On Paul's journey from Ctesarea to Jerusalem, " one Mnason of 
 Cyprus, an old disciple," with whom they were to lodge, went 
 with them. In the terrible voyage described by the apostle 
 in Acts xxvii, they "sailed under Cyprus, because the winds 
 were contrary." 
 
 In the bazaar was an abundant supply of all kinds of oriental 
 fruits of the season, handiwork of the people, and of every- 
 thing which such places usually contain. A guide, employed 
 to conduct us through the Greek Church of St. Lazarus, pre- 
 tended that the body of Lazarus was beneath the building, 
 but he romanced superfluously, as the authorities do not claim 
 that. He solemnly assured us that the Bible' states that, after 
 the resurrection of Lazarus, the Jews drove him away from 
 Joppa, but his boat miraculously drifting to Cyprus, he landed 
 at Lanarca, and the Christians made him bishop, the functions 
 of which office he exercised until his death. 
 
Cyprus and Noted Islands of the tEgean Sea. 
 
 499 
 
 We saw a few of the relics which make Cyprus interesting 
 to antiquarians, but many of the best are in New York. 
 General Di Cesnola, a native of Italy, after a military edu- 
 cation and service in the Sardinian army and the Crimean 
 War, came to the United States, volunteered and became 
 Colonel of the Fourth New York Cavalry and a naturalized 
 citizen. Afterward, when consul at Cyprus, he made the 
 collection of antiquities which he sold to the Metropolitan 
 Museum of Art, of which he is now director. An attack 
 upon him, in art journals and in the daily press, which began 
 in 1879, was referred to a committee of five distinguished 
 citizens, who declared the charges groundless; it was afterward 
 fought through the courts, resulting in a disagreement of the 
 jury. The year after the attack Columbia College conferred 
 upon the General the degree of LL. D. 
 
 The controversy was so partisan that no one could make 
 anything of it. General Di Cesnola's Researches and Dis- 
 co'oeries in Cyprus contains more information than any other 
 accessible work on the subject. "The beautiful women of 
 Cyprus " must have been indoors on the occasion of our visit, 
 and the female inhabitants whom we saw on the streets, in the 
 stores, and in the markets, foreigners. 
 
 From Cyprus we sailed to Rhodes, the usual time of the 
 voyage being thirt}' hours. We were a little longer on the 
 way. This is the most eastern island of the yEgean Sea, a 
 center of primitive traditions; it emerged into history in the 
 possession of all the elements of prosperity, and soon became 
 a great commercial and colonizing power. Rhodes is men- 
 tioned in the history of every important war of ancient times 
 in this part of the world. Its coasts present a noble appear- 
 ance: the island culminates in a mountain summit four thou- 
 sand feet above the water, and the gradual ascent of the 
 hills produces, from some points of view, the effect of ter- 
 races. As a quaint authority says: "All that remains of the 
 Colossus of Rhodes, one of the seven wonders of the world, 
 is the place where it stood at the entrance of the harbor. " It 
 was a bronze statue one hundred and five feet high, was twelve 
 years in being erected, stood for only fifty-six years, being 
 overthrown by an earthquake B. C. 222. The pieces re- 
 
500 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 mained there eight huiuh-etl and ninety-four years. In 672 
 the general of the Caliph Othman IV sold them to a Jew, 
 who carried them away on nine hundred camels. Happening 
 to remember this passage from a translation of Pindar; 
 
 " Wisdom true glory can impart 
 Without the aid of magic art ; 
 As ancient fame reports when Jove 
 And all the immortal powers above 
 Held upon earth divided sway ; 
 Nor yet had Rhodes in glittering pride 
 On ocean's breast appeared to ride, 
 But hid beneath his briny caverns lay," 
 
 I looked with curiosity upon the natural features of the island, 
 which suggested the idea of its originating by the special 
 power of Apollo, and elaborated the myth of its being raised 
 from beneath the waves. 
 
 Later history connects it with the Knights of St. John, 
 who dwelt upon it for above two hundred years after their 
 expulsion from Jerusalem, finally surrendering to Suliman the 
 Magnificent after a siege of four months. 
 
 From Rhodes we sailed past the island of Symi, often men- 
 tioned in history. The people earn their living by fishing for 
 sponge, and both men and women have an extraordinary 
 reputation as divers for sponge and coral. A Greek on the 
 ship told amazing stories of the length of time the women 
 could remain under water, and said it was a custom, when a 
 disturbance took place among the women, to break it up by 
 offering a reward to the one who would dive the deepest and 
 stay under the longest; at which tale some of the Greek by- 
 standers laughed incredulously. 
 
 Kos was the next island of importance which came into 
 view, and what I had read and heard of it made me regret the 
 possibility of landing. I can imagine no more stiinulating 
 way of disposing of three or four days than pedestrianizing on 
 this classic island, the birthplace of Apelles, the painter, 
 Hippocrates, "the father of all such as practice physic," and 
 Simonides, the Greek poet, who had claims to distinction as 
 a philosopher, as the first poet who wrote for money, and on 
 account of adding four letters to the Greek alphabet. 
 
Cyprus and Noted Islands of the tEgean Sea. 501 
 
 It is still more famous as being the only city in Asia Minor 
 which refused to obey the edict of Mithridates ordering the 
 massacre of all Roman citizens. Paul also mentioned his 
 coming to Coos. We were sailing over the route which Paul 
 took, but in an opposite direction, he voyaging to Syria. 
 
 Isle of Patmos. 
 
 Patmos to me had more of mystery and fascination than 
 all the small islands in all the seas. Nor is there anything 
 uttered by man, within or without the Bible, more sublime 
 than: 
 
 "I, John, who also am your brother, and companion in 
 tribulation, and in the kingdom and patience of Jesus Christ, 
 was in the isle that is called Patmos, for the word of God, and 
 for the testimony of Jesus Christ." 
 
 For six hours we were within full sight of it on a day of unsur- 
 passed brightness, and seldom do travelers in this region have 
 so grand a view. Many pass in the night, and others at such 
 a distance as to be unable to discern the outlines of this irreg- 
 ular mass of rock. The island is but ten miles long and five 
 2G 
 
502 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 wide, and may be correctly described as a mountain of rock, 
 two thirds of which is under water. The sea withdrawn, it 
 would be one of the most striking rock mountains in the 
 world. According- to classic historians, the most precipitous 
 and desolate islands were selected for the imprisonment of 
 exiles, and no sooner did we discern Patmos than its appropri- 
 ateness for such a purpose was apparent. A flat island is never 
 impressive. Seeming to exist by the mercy of the sea which 
 ever dashes against its shores, should it be entirely submerged 
 it would not surprise the observer. But Patmos is the embodi- 
 ment of sternness and force; its attitude that of a giant who 
 had thrust himself up out of the sea, and stood through the 
 ages defying its power. 
 
 The aspect of the mouijtain is similar to that of Gibraltar, 
 as it is divided into two parts. On the east side is the harbor. 
 Tradition says St. John received the revelation in a grotto 
 halfway up the steep' ascent, and with a glass we could easily 
 distinguish the spot. Near the summit is the celebrated 
 'Monastery of St. John the Divine. At first we studied it 
 through a glass, but the ship drew so near that it could be 
 identified with the naked eye. 
 
 The Greek fathers who were on board looked upon this 
 island with an interest not less than our own, and one, who 
 had made seven voyages through these waters, said it was the 
 first opportunity he had had of seeing it. The monks claim 
 to point out the very spot where the revelation was delivered, 
 even to identifying the fissures in the roof of the grotto 
 through which the apostle heard the voice from heaven like 
 the sound of a trumpet. That is bringing the matter to a fine 
 point, especially as there is not the slightest reason to suppose 
 from the book itself that any sounds were heard by his 
 material ear. Whoever will carefully read the first chapter 
 will not be left in doubt upon this point. All these wonders 
 were seen by John in vision, and are types of spiritual truths. 
 The island has a population of four thousand, a starving, 
 poverty-stricken class, who live by working on other islands 
 as farmers and by boating. 
 
 Samos is larger than Patmos, being thirty miles long and 
 eight wide. A splendid picture was presented of the range of 
 
Cyprus axd Noted Islands of the ^■Egeax Sea. 503 
 
 mountains, extending from east to west, whence it derives its 
 name. Patmos has no classic value. Samos was once the 
 center of Ionian manners and learning, and has no Christian 
 interest. All that we had known, read, or heard of ancient 
 Greece came trooping up, and as we read an epitome of the 
 statements of Thucydides recalling the fact that the Samians 
 were the first of the Greeks, after the Corinthians, who paid at- 
 tention to naval affairs, and remembered that they founded 
 colonies in Thrace, Cicilia, Crete, Italy, and Sicily, and as we 
 contemplated the island, now in possession of Athens, then 'of 
 Sparta, then of Rome, tracing it down from the time that An- 
 tony and Cleopatra made it a place of residence, until it sank 
 into its modern insignificance, we felt, as often before, that not 
 the size of the territory, but the character of the people, makes 
 its history important. 
 
 At Scio, or Chios, we made a landing. Its modern is al- 
 most as interesting as its ancient history. It claims to be the 
 birthplace of Homer, " the blind old man of Scio's rocky isle," 
 and that Ion, the tragic poet, and Theopompus, the historian, 
 were born there is not disputed. In the time of Herodotus it 
 was a member of the Ionian Confederation. Important as its 
 history has been, the island is only thirty-two miles long and 
 eighteen wide. As we sailed along the mainland and among 
 the islands, our minds were filled with Bible names, such as 
 Caria, Miletus, Trogyllium, Samos, Patmos, Coos, Chios, 
 Mitylene, Ephesus, Cnidus, with classical Halicarnassus and 
 the Meander. The tints of sea, sky, and landscape, the con- 
 stantly changing outline of the mountains, caused the scenic 
 interest to leave in the mind a suffused haze of delight. The 
 historic, the literary, and the artistic formed a shifting pan- 
 orama of things new and old. We were among places and 
 scenes of which we had heard and read all our lives, and mem- 
 ory fulfilled the tribute paid her by Samuel Rogers : 
 
 "And hence the cliarm historic scenes impart ; 
 Hence Tiber awes, and Avon melts the heart ; 
 Aerial forms in Tempe's classic vale 
 Glance through the gloom and whisper in the gale," etc. 
 
 As we recalled Paul's missionary tours and John's sufferings 
 and revelations, religion threw its charm over every object. 
 
504 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LXI. 
 Smyrna and Ephesus. 
 
 Beauty of Smyrna — Figs, Drugs, and Rugs — Cosmopolitan Population — Lan- 
 guages — Wandering Tribes — ^^Religions — Tomb of Polycarp — Importance of 
 Ephesus — Ruins of the Stadium, Odeon, and Great Theater — Temple of 
 Diana — Incidents in Paul's Life Connected with Ephesus — Legend of the 
 Seven Sleepers. 
 
 It was with satisfaction that we disembarked at Smyrna. 
 An old acquaintance and fellow-traveler, the late A. A, Van- 
 tine, fomider of the famous carpet, rug, and oriental merchan- 
 dise establishment on Broadway, New York, had said to me: 
 "Visit Smyrna, and keep your eyes and ears open, for you 
 will see strange peoples, and the sounds of more than fifty 
 languages and dialects will bombard your ears." After list- 
 ening by the hour on shipboard to his interesting reminis- 
 cences of twenty-six visits to Smyrna, Constantinople, Japan, 
 and other countries of the East, I told him that when in 
 Smyrna 1 should remember him, and on returning would report 
 whether I found the city as he had portrayed it. 
 
 The conversation occurred but six years ago, yet, before the 
 opportunity of making the report came, the hero of so many 
 journeys had been summoned to that bourn whence no trav- 
 eler returns, although his name upon the house still attracts 
 attention. 
 
 He who goes to Smyrna for good hotels will be disappointed; 
 but they are endurable. The hours of meals are primitive, 
 dinner being served in the middle of the day. 
 
 I had not been in my room ten minutes before being forcibly 
 reminded of my native land by the cheerful song of the mos- 
 quito. Smyrna is as famous for mosquitoes as New Jersey, 
 and the winter is not cold enough to kill them. 
 
 We were filled with admiration of the beauty of the city as 
 we entered a gulf which extends far inland, and the city lies 
 
.Smyrna and Ephesus. 505 
 
 partly on the slopes of Mount Pagus, near the southeast of the 
 gulf, and partly between that hill and the sea. Opposite to 
 Pagus is a steep peak nearly one thousand three hundred 
 feet high; and in the most ancient period of the city's his- 
 tory the Acropolis was upon this point. On the west side is 
 another hill surmounted with the ruins of temples. 
 
 The sea in front and mountains as a background will give 
 any city an imposing appearance, and its beauty is increased 
 when arms of the sea reach inland. In ancient times, " when 
 magnificent buildings and imposing Acropolis and the wide 
 circle of massive walls combined with the natural scenery in 
 one splendid picture," the effect must have been even more 
 striking. I enjoyed several walks along the sea, constantly 
 rejoicing in glimpses of Mount Pagus, and made a short trip 
 up the mountain's side. Frank Street, containing the English 
 consulate and chapel, the European casino, English book- 
 sellers, and the English pharmacy, is interesting to Europeans. 
 Donkeys are as frequently used for riding in Smyrna as in 
 Cairo. 
 
 Smyrna has a wide reputation for its traffic in drugs ; in 
 fact, it has monopolized this business in the East, and while 
 prescriptions were being put up for me by one clerk I chatted 
 with another, who seemed to be a polyglot, as he could 
 turn like a courier from one language to another, but, unlike 
 the courier, could converse intelligently and correctly upon 
 any subject. Olive oil and attar of roses, scammony, galls, 
 licorice paste, opium, madder, ail sorts of drugs, dyes, and 
 perfumes are wholesaled and retailed. The large tanks em- 
 ployed in the leech business are very curious. Before bleed- 
 ing became unfashionable in medical practice an immense 
 business was done in leeches. 
 
 Everyone has heard of Smyrna figs. Had it been in the 
 season I should have gone to see them cured, though some 
 say that the women who prepare them are among the dirtiest 
 creatures to be found in the Levant. It is claimed there is a 
 mystery in the method used which gives the figs their reputa- 
 tion. 
 
 Of the rugs and carpets I need say nothing, for the finest can 
 be seen in New York. They are manufactured in towns in the 
 
5o6 I'ravf.ls IX Three Continents. 
 
 interior and brought to Smyrna. In the windows of the stores 
 were curious handkerchiefs, and while passing through the 
 Persian khan we saw rarely beautiful designs in carpets. Later 
 in the season small dealers come in and peddle rugs and car- 
 pets about the city; sponges frt^m the islands which we had 
 passed are sold here. 
 
 In looking for Mr. Vantine's cosmopolitan population, I 
 was not disappointed; fur all kinds of dialects saluted my ears, 
 and every variety of costume greeted my eyes. On the out- 
 skirts of the city there is a huge encampment of gypsies speak- 
 ing their own language, and we observed some of them stand- 
 ing about the station. 
 
 The authorities divide the nations and languages into many 
 groups: English and American; High Dutch, an old colony 
 of Hollanders; French; Italians; Albanians; Slavonians, speak- 
 ing Servian; Hellenic Greeks, speaking Romaic; Armenians, 
 Persians, and Gypsies ; Jews, whose language is mongrel 
 Spanish and Italian; and varieties of Turanians, including 
 Turks, Kizzilbashes, and Rayah Greeks speaking Turkish 
 and Greek, descendants of the ancient inhabitants of Asia 
 Minor. 
 
 It was represented to us that not one language is spoken 
 in purity; that most of the Mussulmans and Christians speak 
 several languages, and that, under the influence of the modern 
 Greek or Romaic pronunciation, and from their being a non- 
 reading people, the Christians create dialects. Our old guide, 
 Moses, in Palestine, illustrated this tendency by his fluency in 
 languages and dialects. He could speak many languages, but 
 none correctly. 
 
 In Smyrna there are many Negroes from Eastern and Cen- 
 tral Africa. Among the most peculiar of mankind are the 
 nomads, encamped within a few miles of the city; for this is 
 the frontier of the wandering tribes who are scattered over 
 the vast territory between Smyrna and China. At the pres- 
 ent time there are twice as many Greeks in Smyrna as in 
 Athens. 
 
 I dare not enter into the history of the city, as even an in- 
 telligent condensation would demand several chapters. Its 
 myths begin to dissipate about seven hundred years before 
 
Smyrna and Ephesus. 
 
 507 
 
 Christ. It lay desolate four hundred years, but Alexander the 
 Great is said to have had a warning in a vision from Diana to 
 restore it. It became famous for philosophy and rhetoric, 
 being named the "Forest of Philosophers," the "Museum of 
 Ionia," "the Asylum of the Muses and Graces." Formerly 
 insalubrious, the nucleus and generating center of plagues 
 through all the centuries, for about sixty years it has been 
 comparatively healthful. Miasmatic valleys surround it, and 
 would render it uninhabitable were it not for a certain wind 
 which they designate the Ijiihat. 
 
 The Turks allow religious freedom, and Greeks, Armenians, 
 and Roman Catholics are undisturbed in their worship. A 
 singular concession to Greek and Armenian prejudice appears 
 in the fact that the Roman Catholic cathedral contains hardly 
 an image. Many schools and missions exist, and the different 
 religious creeds are divided into antagonistic sects. Among 
 the Mohammedans there are several that are not allowed to 
 practice their peculiar rites in this orthodox Mohammedan 
 citv. 
 
 Protestant missions have existed in Smyrna for years, and 
 diverse statements are made concerning their success. 
 
 To Christians the preeminent interest of Smyrna lies in 
 these words: 
 
 "And unto the angel of the church in Smyrna write; These 
 things saith the first and the last, which was dead, and is 
 alive; I know thy works, and tribulation, and poverty, (but 
 thou art rich) and I know the blasphemy of them which say 
 they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan. 
 Fear none of those things which thou shalt suffer: behold, the 
 devil shall cast some of you into prison, that ye may be tried; 
 and ye shall have tribulation ten days; be thou faithful unto 
 death, and I will give thee a crown of life. He that hath an 
 ear, let him hear what the Spirit saith unto the churches; He 
 <vhat overcometh shall not be hurt of the second death." 
 
 " This once only her record flashes into unique and sudden 
 brightness illumined by the praise of Christ himself, praise un- 
 alloyed by a single word of censure." 
 
 From the beginning Smyrna suffered tribulation for Christ 
 from heathen and Jews; though Smyrna was rich, the Christians 
 
5o8 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 were poor, but they were rich in faith. It was here that Poly- 
 carp was martyred, and lie was bishop at the time that Igna- 
 tius passed through on his way to die for Christ in the 
 amphitheater of Rome. Polycarp was a disciple of St. John, 
 and from these circumstances it is the opinion of many, and 
 is set forth in a work on the Seven Churches of Asia, edited by 
 Professor Salmond, of the University of Aberdeen, that he was 
 the "angel of the church in Smyrna" to whom the above 
 words were written. Of him Irenteus writes his reminiscences 
 in the latter part of the second century, saying: "I can tell 
 the very place where the blessed Polycarp used to sit and dis- 
 course; his entrances, his walks, the complexion of his life, the 
 form of his body, his conversations with the people, and his 
 familiar intercourse with St. John, as also his familiarity with 
 those who had seen the Lord." 
 
 The ruins of the amphitheater in which Polycarp was sacri- 
 ficed for Christ are still there; his words just before he was 
 burnt will never die. The proconsul who wished to set him 
 free, as Pilate wished to deliver Christ, said: "Blaspheme 
 Christ, and I will release thee; " Polycarp answered: " Eighty 
 and six years I have served him, and he hath never wronged 
 me; how then can I blaspheme my King, who hath saved 
 me? " This sealed his doom. 
 
 The "candlestick" of Smyrna has never been removed. 
 From that time to this it has been a Christian city, presenting 
 the Gospel in a poor, mutilated form, but no doubt containing 
 at all times a number of such as should be saved, and who 
 through all the superstitions and ceremonies of paganized 
 Christianity have adhered to the Head. It has always been 
 spoken of as Christian, "the Moslems in scorn terming it the 
 infidel Smyrna." 
 
 Some of our party went to see the tomb of Polycarp, the 
 identity of which has been maintained. It stands on the side 
 of Mount Pagus, below the Acropolis, near the ruins of an im- 
 mense theater which was destroyed by an earthquake, and 
 over it grows an ancient cypress tree. Above, within the 
 Acropolis, is a mosque which is known to have been the church 
 in which he preached. 
 
 Smyrna is worthy a visit from every traveler, whatever his 
 
 / 
 
Smyrna and Ephesus. 509 
 
 favorite line of study and observation. Yet many, generally 
 well informed, are so ignorant of it that the remark is not in- 
 frequent: " What is the use of going to Smyrna? " They do 
 not appear to know that it is to-day, and for ages has been, 
 the most important city in Asia Minor, having its hand on 
 Europe, Asia, and Africa, and abounding in antiquities, pre- 
 Christian and Christian, and containing a unique conglomera- 
 tion of more than two hundred thousand living human beings. 
 
 Ephesus is a cradleof mythology, the metropolis of the Ionian 
 Confederacy, " next to Athens remarkable for being the scene 
 of memorable events, for having the great School of Art, and 
 as being, next to Jerusalem, the holiest of Christian cities, 
 and the most noted in apostolic labors." Ephesus is the 
 legendary native place of Apollo and Diana; one of the chief 
 claimants for the birthplace of Homer ; an alleged birth- 
 place of Apelles; — Ephesus is necessary to the history of 
 Croesus, Artemisia, Xerxes, Cimon the Athenian, Alcibiades, Ly- 
 sander the Spartan, Agesilaus, King of Sparta, and Xenophon; 
 of Alexander the Great; of Ptolemy Philadelphus; of Hannibal; 
 of Mithridates, Manlius, Scipio, Sylla; of Cicero, Pompey, and 
 Augustus. Ephesus, renowned for architecture, sculpture, 
 painting, philosophy; equally important in the Asiatic, Grecian, 
 Roman, Byzantine, and Mohammedan periods, under pagan- 
 ism, Christianity, and Mohammedanism, can be visited in one 
 day's excursion from Smyrna, the distance being forty-eight 
 miles. 
 
 The morning appointed for the journey found me ill, but 
 the thought of missing Ephesus was not to be endured, and 
 a counter irritant might ward off a worse thing; so, whip- 
 ping up the latent powers, I rose, and once in the train had 
 nothing to do but exist and enjoy the attractive scenery^ 
 until the village of Ayasoolook was reached. It is at the en- 
 trance to a large fig district, the vineyards being on the 
 adjacent mountains. Murray says that this "is a feverish 
 place, with few permanent inhabitants," and that "visitors 
 who stay over night should sleep in an upper story." For that 
 reason only explorers remain long, and even they are recom- 
 mended to stay at another village an hour's ride away, seven 
 hundred feet above the level of the plain, and healthful. 
 
^,o Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Horses were obtained, but were so poor that though each man 
 tried to get the best he subsequently maintained that he had 
 
 the worst. 
 
 My beast had the most expressive countenance I have ever 
 seen upon horse or ass, and a way of looking at other horses 
 and their riders which resembled a satirical leer. 1 concluded 
 that he would try to throw me; but physiognomy is as uncer- 
 tain an index of character in horses as in men. He was peace- 
 ful, gentle, and had but one trick, that of occasionally pausing, 
 generally in front of a ruin, and looking around as if to say, 
 " Why do you bring me here ?" 
 
 Nests of storks attracted our attention as we rode. These 
 birds are revered by the inhabitants, and sail through the air 
 or stand with equal majesty upon their high nests. 
 
 The finest account of Ephesus as it was may be found in the 
 Book of Acts. In exploring the ruins we rode several miles 
 on the sides of mountains and hills, and rambled over adjacent 
 valleys. But fragments of monuments remain, from the Cyclo- 
 pean walls down to the time of the Mussulman. The theory 
 is that the country was originally settled, and that two or three 
 smaller cities were built on Mount Prion, Mount Coressus, and 
 on the hill near the present railway station; that these flour- 
 ished, gradually approached each other, and finally united and 
 formed Ephesus. 
 
 Only fragments remain of the magnificence of Ephesus, but 
 much more than I expected, both of substructures and super- 
 structures. The subterranean vaults are vast, the foundations 
 easily traced, and there is no reason to doubt that the sites of 
 almost all the famous buildings are identified. The Gymna- 
 sium, the Great Agora, and the two smaller markets, close to 
 the base of Mount Coressus, are plainly marked. Ephesus 
 was famous for its gymnasiums; one was nine hundred and 
 twenty-five feet by six hundred and eighty feet; but another, 
 where Agesilaus exercised the Spartans, was more celebrated. 
 We stood in the theater, which would seat sixty thousand. It 
 is a pile of ruins, but its walls in part still stand. The climate 
 admitted of perfect ventilation, little use was made of windows, 
 and immensity and simplicity were the elements of its grandeur. 
 The Stadium and the Odeon and fragments of temples stil! 
 
Smyrna and Ephesus. 511 
 
 remain; the two former are positively identified, several of 
 the temples hypotheticall5\ Coins are extant upon which are 
 inscribed the names of the temples of Ephesus. For centuries 
 the Temple of Diana was buried beneath the accumulating 
 debris and the soil of the plain, and the knowledge of its site 
 was lost; but about thirty-five years ago Mr. \\'ood found in- 
 scriptions in the great theater, one of which gave the clew to 
 the location of the temple. 
 
 Though a wanderer in many countries, and in the habit of 
 reading accounts of ruined cities, not till I reached Ephesus 
 did the full glory and value of the services of archaeologists 
 and antiquarians burst upon my mind, ^^'ith the scene in full 
 view, I read of the discovery of the Magnesian Gate; from 
 which, according to Philostratus, a covered way led to the 
 Temple of Diana. Mr. Wood dug for it, and eleven feet 
 underground found the road with tombs on each side. For 
 three years he explored this road. Finding an inscription 
 elsewhere stating that the procession from the Temple of 
 Diana entered the city by the Magnesian Gate and returned 
 through the Coressian Gate, he drew the conclusion that the 
 temple stood at the junction. After finding the Magnesian, 
 he discovered the Coressian Gate, and in April, 1869, "he 
 struck upon the angle of the peribolos just where it might 
 have been expected to be." Then he discovered in that wall 
 an inscription stating that the Emperor Augustus had rebuilt 
 the peribolos wall around the Temple of the Goddess Diana, 
 B. C. 6. His later discoveries were remarkable, including a 
 pavement of square blocks of fine white marble, nine inches 
 thick, on a level bed of black marble. These were eighteen feet 
 below the soil, and on further examination he discovered that 
 the lowest stratum of soil was composed of splinters of fine 
 white marble calcined by fire. He came upon drums of marble 
 columns six feet in diameter; then the south walls, and frag- 
 ments of one hundred columns sixty feet high. By compari- 
 son he ascertained the dimensions of the temple to have been 
 one hundred and sixty-four feet by three hundred and forty- 
 three. One of my authorities compares this temple with the 
 Parthenon, which is only two hundred and twenty-eight feet 
 long by one hundred and one broad. The ruins found are 
 
512 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 of the eighth successive temple, the preceding seven having 
 been burnt. The sixth is supposed to have been begun six 
 hundred years before Christ, and was built in a marsh to 
 guard against earthquake. It is claimed that this temple was 
 destroyed the same day Socrates drank poison, B. C. 400. 
 The seventh was the one that Herostratus burned in order to 
 perpetuate his name, giving rise to the lines which John 
 Wilkes Booth used to repeat to his friends when he was con- 
 templating the plan that ended in the assassination of Presi- 
 dent Lincoln : 
 
 " The aspiring youth that fired the Ephesian dome 
 Outlives in fame the pious fool that raised it." 
 
 Amid these ruins I lifted up my voice and shouted, "Great is 
 Diana of the Ephesians!" but none are left upon the earth 
 to do her reverence. The temple is supposed to have been 
 burned the year A. D. 260, but its final destruction is believed 
 to have occurred under the decree of Constantine, A. D. 342. 
 The demonstration of these facts on broad, general lines is 
 absolute. 
 
 Guided by the Book of Acts we could easily follow St. Paul. 
 He comes to Ephesus, accompanied by Priscilla and Aquila, 
 and, after reasoning awhile with the Jews in the synagogue, 
 departs for Jerusalem, leaving Apollos of Alexandria to 
 preach. Aquila and Priscilla meet him, and from them he 
 learns more of Christianity. Again Paul comes to Ephesus, 
 and finds the disciples who had received only John's baptism. 
 From the reference to this fact arose the notion that John the 
 Baptist had been there, and they pretend to show the font in 
 which he baptized. Paul now remained two years "disputing 
 daily in the school of one Tyrannus." As Ephesus was at that 
 time given up to magic, Paul here wrought special miracles, 
 and here the sons of Sceva tried to cast out the evil spirit and 
 were confounded, so that "those who used curious arts . . . 
 and books . . . burned them, and mightily grew the word of 
 God and prevailed. " 
 
 Then arose the excitement. Demetrius and his fellow-crafts- 
 men impeached Paul, and said that the Temple of the God- 
 dess Diana would be thrown down. The people rushed with 
 one accord into the theater and cried for the space of about 
 
Smyrna and Ephesus. 513 
 
 two hours: "Great is Diana of the Ephesians. " We stood 
 that day before the walls which had resounded to the uproar. 
 
 The words of the town clerk show that there must have 
 been an image supposed to have fallen from Jupiter: "Ye 
 men of Ephesus, what man is there that knoweth not how 
 that the city of the Ephesians is a worshiper of the great god- 
 dess Diana, and of the image which fell down from Jupiter?" 
 Timothy was at Ephesus with St. Paul, who sent him, to- 
 gether with Erastus, into Macedonia. The twentieth chapter 
 of Acts states that while there St. Paul supported himself by 
 tentmaking, a handicraft for which Ephesus was famous. 
 A belief existed anciently that Paul was part of the time in 
 prison here, which is quite probable, though the supposed St. 
 Paul's prison is mythical. The Epistles to Timothy inform us 
 that he was the first Bishop of Ephesus. It is also generally 
 believed that after St. John was released from banishment 
 on Patmos, he resided in Ephesus and the Virgin Mary dwelt 
 with him there, and was buried there. For two centuries this 
 was hardly doubted, but Jerusalem now claims his tomb. The 
 Greeks allege that St. John is buried there under the ruins 
 of a church. 
 
 Far up the side of Mount Prion is the (rrotto of the Seven 
 Sleepers. Eastern Christians believe that at the time of 
 Diocletian seven young men with a dog went into this grotto 
 to escape from their enemies, fell asleep, and did not wake for 
 two hundred years, but woke with the impression they had 
 slept only during the night. Going into the city they found 
 everything changed; they could recognize neither the people, 
 the money, nor the language. The Mohammedan believes this, 
 and there is a whole chapter on the subject in the Koran: 
 " The Chapter of the Cave." In Smyrna they sell rings with 
 the names of the Seven Sleepers engraved upon them, which 
 are used as talismans. 
 
 From Miletus Paul sent to Ephesus for the elders of the 
 church, and delivered a wonderful address. But his predic- 
 tion has been fulfilled; grievous wolves have entered in, not 
 sparing the flock. In the message to the church at Ephesus 
 the church is in general commended, but its members had 
 to their credit a record of works, labor, patience, and abhor- 
 
514 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 rence of evil; had tried Uiose wliu said Uiey were apostles and 
 were not, and had found them liars, and had "labored and not 
 fainted," and hated the deeds of the Nicolaitans. The only- 
 criticism is: "Nevertheless 1 have somewhat against thee, 
 because thou hast left thy first love." 
 
 The P'irst Epistle to the Corinthians, contrary to the inscrip- 
 tion which follows it in the New Testament, is believed to 
 have been written by Paul when at Ephesus. The Epistle of 
 I'aul to the Ephesians is the most sublime of his writings, and 
 justly characterized as majestic. Those who will read it in 
 the light of the character of the city and its buildings will ob- 
 serve what an influence his residence there must have exerted 
 upon Paul's mind. 
 
Athens. 515 
 
 CHAPTER LXII. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 The Piraeus — Tomb of Themistocles — Modern History — The Olympieum 
 and Stadium — Theater of Dionysus — Odeum — Propylaa — Parthenon — View 
 from the Acropolis — Mars' Hill — Hill of the Pnyx — Institutions of Athens 
 — Mount Lykabettos. 
 
 From Ephesus we returned to Smyrna, whence we sailed for 
 Athens, a short voyage, but memorable from the fact that we 
 gazed for hours upon the receding shores of the continent of 
 Asia, sailed among celebrated islands^ and scanned the motley 
 crowds gathered at the ports. As the coast of Salamis, with 
 its various bays, and the mountains and islands which bound 
 the horizon appeared, all trace of fatigue and seasickness dis- 
 appeared. Greece, historically the most absorbing to the 
 mind of all the countries of Europe, and Athens, its crown 
 and glory, were just before us. 
 
 The Piraeus is a low, long hill forming an excellent harbor, 
 and having at its base a flourishing seaport with a population 
 of thirty or forty thousand, an entirely modern city; and when 
 we were there many ships were at the piers. Some of the 
 ruins are not unworthy of comparison with any in Greece. 
 The tomb of Themistocles is here, and the view from the 
 Acropolis, easily reached (the hill being less than three hun- 
 dred feet in height), includes important parts of the city of 
 Athens, the Attic Plain, the bays, the far-famed islands of 
 ^gina and Salamis, and is indeed grand. 
 
 The crowd at the landing was as numerous and noisy as any 
 that we had met. There is a railway to Athens, but we pre- 
 ferred to ride more slowly and become familiar with a land- 
 scape every foot of which is associated with Grecian history. 
 For a while the road runs along one of the two walls which 
 formerly connected Athens with its harbor. One advantage 
 which the carriage road has over the railroad is that it com- 
 mands more views, the latter in many places passing through 
 cuttings. 
 
5i6 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 From the ship we saw the Acropolis of Athens, and 1 liave 
 never seen another place which for the first time on a distant 
 view seemed so familiar — so true to nature are the paintings 
 and engravings of the Acropolis. The road was exceedingly- 
 dusty, and would have been very hot if not shaded by trees, 
 and had not the vineyards and olive plantations given the 
 country a refreshing appearance. 
 
 As late as 1834 Athens was a miserable little village of about 
 three hundred houses. That was the year of the transfer of 
 the seat of government; though the standard of the war of in- 
 dependence was raised in the Peloponnesus in the year 1821, 
 it was not till 1833 that the Turkish troops evacuated. The 
 actual business of the government began here in 1835. Since 
 that event the present beautiful city has been reared. 
 
 The important thoroughfares resemble those of the best 
 cities of Europe, for Athens has the advantage of having been 
 planned by a scientific architect. Its streets are regular, 
 houses well built, boulevards wide, and squares spacious. The 
 population is nearly a hundred thousand, though the city is of 
 little importance in a commercial point of view, and derives 
 what prosperity it has from being the capital, the abode of the 
 king, and the only place in all Greece where polite and refined 
 society can be found; and from being the resort of students 
 and travelers, and the residence of many distinguished men 
 who value and furnish the means of culture. 
 
 Athens has fine hotels. Ours was the Hotel D'Etrangers, 
 which we found satisfactory. There we met ex-President 
 White, of Cornell University, who had stayed at the same 
 hotel twenty years before. 
 
 The newspapers are printed in Greek, and it is an interest- 
 ing fact that they can be read easily by college students who 
 remember their Greek ! Without serious difficulty I could 
 follow the accounts of ordinary news and educational and 
 religious discussions^ — especially when near Principal Bancroft. 
 The city has street cars, aqueducts, spring water, and rivals 
 Egypt in the manufacture of spurious antiquities. A regular 
 business is done in fraudulent coins and gems brought 
 from France. A gentleman gave me an account of an 
 American merchant who had purchased several hundred dol- 
 
•<?vS^ 
 
Athens. 519 
 
 lars' worth of fraudulent antiquities, and was so disgusted 
 when an expert informed him that the entire collection was 
 not worth more than five dollars that, though he had in- 
 tended to remain some weeks in Greece, he took the next 
 steamer for Marseilles. 
 
 The king's palace, built of marble and limestone, was 
 somewhat hastily constructed, and has a superabundance of 
 windows; but its situation is fine, and a general view of it 
 pleasing. The palace garden is beautiful, cool, and shady. 
 Services are held in the chapel every Sabbath, and those who 
 attend have the opportunity of seeing the king, who worships 
 devoutly. 
 
 We attended services on Sabbath morning at the mission of 
 the Rev. Mr. Kalapothakes, and heard him preach; and later 
 we went to a Greek church, where the singing was character- 
 istically fine, and the services ornate and protracted. 
 
 The objects in Athens which I most desired to see were 
 the ruins, battlefields, scenes of particular tragic events, and 
 haunts of the philosophers, poets, sages, orators, and teachers 
 who gave Greece its real glory. The Arch of Hadrian, which 
 divides the old from the new city, has been gnawed by the 
 tooth of Time, but inscriptions make it an historic landmark. 
 Upon the side next the town, in Greek, is this inscription: 
 "This is Athens, the old city of Theseus." On the other side: 
 " This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus." This arch 
 dates back at least to 150 A. D. 
 
 Fifteen Corinthian columns of the Olympieum are all that 
 remain of a work that began five centuries before Christ, stood 
 unfinished for more than three, was then carried forward, de- 
 spoiled, and finally completed by Hadrian. Only the Temple 
 of Diana at Ephesus surpassed it in the vastness of its dimen- 
 sions. The people congregate here on summer evenings, and 
 refreshments may be obtained. There is always a breeze, and 
 views of mountain, plain, city, and bay are fine. 
 
 The Stadium, scene of the Panathenaean games, would accom- 
 modate fifty thousand spectators, as it had sixty rows of seats 
 running all around it, the reserved seats being made of mar- 
 ble. It is still impressive, and has been improved within the last 
 twenty years at the expense of the king. It gives the visitor 
 
520 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 a peculiar sensation, no matter how often it is repeated, to 
 tell him, as he wanders among such scenes, that succeeding 
 generations have burned up statues and columns for the lime 
 that their marble contained. 
 
 The theater of Dionysus (Bacchus) has been made intelli- 
 gible since ICS76, and more can be learned about it now in a 
 half hour than prior to that time could have been laboriously 
 deciphered in a week. The student who recalls the fact that 
 this is " the cradle of dramatic art of Greece, the spot in 
 which the masterpieces of ^schylus, Sophocles, Euripides, 
 and Aristophanes first excited delight and admiration," will 
 wish to linger here. 
 
 Our way to the Acropolis led past the Odeum of Herodes 
 Atticus. Ascending the steps to the bastion supporting the 
 Temple of Nike, we passed through the Propytea, and with 
 each step amazement deepened. Its colonnades, columns, steps 
 of marble, Eleusinian stone, massive walls, and mingling of 
 Ionic and Doric styles, made up a stupendous composite which 
 I confess myself unable to describe without transferring bodily 
 the plans and specifications prepared by the Archaeological 
 Society. Yet, though almost mentally paralyzed in the 
 Propyl^ea, I was able to perceive the superiority of the 
 Parthenon, but only after exploring it for hours, and viewing 
 it from every point. The sense of its grandeur culminated in 
 the conviction that it is the most magnificent work ever ex- 
 ecuted by the hand of man. In the union of delicate art with 
 massiveness it had no equal. The ruins of Egypt are more 
 amazing; these more attractive. There brute force is seen; 
 here force guided by highly-trained intellect and molded by 
 exquisite sensibility. In the Parthenon one feels rather than 
 thinks. The mental image of the whole, but not of its parts, 
 is brought away. To-day I can see the vast inclosure as dis- 
 tinctly as though I had spent yesterday upon that summit 
 where two thousand years ago the Parthenon was dedicated to 
 religious worship. If in its present ruined state it so affects 
 the mind, what must it have been when crowned with the 
 magnificent sculptures of Phidias? 
 
 I discovered that some of the descriptions which I had 
 read were dependent upon the imagination. Visitors to 
 
Athens. 521 
 
 London may see many of the best sculptures in the British 
 Museum ; they are known as the Elgin Marbles, and give 
 greater assistance in forming an idea of the ornamentation 
 of the Parthenon than can now be obtained in Athens. 
 
 Wonderful as were these buildings, the superb site upon 
 which they were placed increased their effect. To-day, one 
 standing upon that hill can see the bay of Phaleron, the town 
 and harbor of Pirjeus, the island of Salamis, the coast as far 
 as Corinth, and mountains nearly a hundred miles distant upon 
 the horizon. 
 
 Separated from the Acropolis by a shallow depression is 
 Areopagus, or Mars' Hill. Here sat an ancient court, having 
 supreme jurisdiction in all cases of life and death. On the 
 north side of it lay the market place. To Athens Paul came 
 from Berea, and waited for Silas and Timotheus. When he 
 saw the city wholly given up to idolatry, he disputed in the 
 synagogues with the Jews, and in the market. It was scarce 
 five minutes' walk from the market to the summit of Mars' 
 Hill, and it is agreed that probably on the hillside toward 
 the market Paul delivered the sermon recorded in the seven- 
 teenth of Acts. No church has been built there; the hill is 
 as bare as any desolate rock, and is one of the few places 
 not monopolized by the Jews, or b}' either of the two great 
 divisions of Christianity, the Latin and the Greek, which have 
 disputed for the possession of the Eastern World. 
 
 Some of the English-speaking travelers and residents de- 
 sired to hold a religious service upon Mars' Hill, which was 
 done about 4 p. .m. on Sunday. When the time came a small 
 and select audience assembled, representing England, Scot- 
 land, five States of the Union, Canada, and seven religious 
 denominations. Three Christian bodies were represented in 
 the conduct of the services. Dr. Bancroft, a minister of the 
 Congregational communion, read the Scriptures and offered 
 prayer ; the sermon was delivered by the writer ; and the 
 closing prayer was made by Mr. Mills, of the Society of 
 Friends, President of Earlham College in Indiana. Not far 
 away stood several priests of the Greek Church closely watch- 
 ing the proceedings. ]More forcible than anything said or 
 sung was the fact that, though Paul was driven out of Athens, 
 
r22 Travli-s in Three Continents. 
 
 in every pari vi llie civilized world the religion which he 
 preached is revered, and not one human being remains to 
 worship the gods in whose honor was erected the Parthe- 
 non, to which our voices reached. Of Paul's sermon it is 
 said that " some mocked: and others said, Wc will hear thee 
 again of this matter. So Paul departed from among them. 
 Howbeit certain men clave unto him, and believed: among 
 the which was Dionysius the Areopagite, and a woman named 
 Damaris, and others with them." Not far from the place of 
 our service, toward the west, are the ruins of the Christian 
 church dedicated to Dionysius the Areopagite, everything 
 indicating that this spot, now utterly desolate, was densely 
 populated in the time of Paul; for when he visited Athens the 
 city was at the height of its magnificence. 
 
 The hill of the Pnyx, famous as a place of meeting of the po- 
 litical assemblies of the Athenians, and where were delivered 
 the orations of Demosthenes and of all the great orators, com- 
 mands an inspiring spectacle. The foundations of the Bema, 
 or orator's stage, can yet be traced. The place of assembly 
 was an artificial terrace, two hundred and twelve feet wide, 
 and three hundred and ninety-five feet long. 
 
 Athens contains numerous public institutions; among them 
 the Academy of Science; the University, which has fifteen hun- 
 dred students; the Library; the Polytechnic Institute, contain- 
 ing Egyptian antiquities;. and the Museum of the Archseological 
 Society. Dr. Schliemann's private residence we found as in- 
 teresting as any other place in the city. 
 
 At the American School I presented letters of introduction 
 which had been kindly furnished me by Professor Van Ben- 
 schoten, who spent one year in Athens as head of that school. 
 To our regret, the director, Dr. Charles AValdstein, was absent 
 from the city. The number of students was only seven, but these 
 were pursuing special courses, and, making Athens a center, 
 were exploring the classic cities, accompanied by the professors. 
 
 1 ascended Mount Lykabettos, nine hundred and ten feet 
 above the level of the sea, an easy ascent, though steep. On 
 the summit is the little Chapel of St. George. The view 
 rewards the climb, as it includes a more remarkable historical 
 prospect than any similar height near Rome can boast. 
 
Athens. 523 
 
 The home of Sophocles is known as the Kolonos, and those 
 who visit it may see the graves of Otfried Mueller and Charles 
 Lenormant. But more attractive to me was the site of the 
 Academy where Plato and others taught. To visit the city of 
 Plato, Aristotle, Themistocles, Thucydides, Aristides, Pericles, 
 and Demosthenes; to be where they lived and wrote and spoke, 
 and where the chisel of Phidias carved immortality for him- 
 self and his native country, accomplishes for Grecian history 
 what a visit to Palestine performs for Jewish, — transforms it 
 from dead literature into a living form. 
 
524 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LXIII. 
 Corinth. 
 
 En wM/d"— Situation and Importance — History — The Modern Town — Ruins 
 at Old Corinth — Kraneion, the Home of Diogenes— Prospect from Acro- 
 Corinth — Characteristics of the Greek People. 
 
 For various reasons the traveler for pleasure will choose 
 the train rather than the steamer in going from Athens to 
 Corinth. The road runs north across the Attic Plain; west 
 through the valley formed by Mount ^galeos and Mount 
 Parnes; and along the boundary line between Attica and 
 Megara, giving views of the Bay of Eleusis and the coast 
 of Salamis. After crossing the plain of Megara, we passed 
 through mountains, rocky cuttings, narrow passes, and through 
 the midst continually of sea and mountain views, until, having 
 traveled fifty-seven miles bristling with mythological, poetic, 
 and classic associations, we reached Corinth. 
 
 New Corinth has eight thousand inhabitants, and is three and 
 a half miles northeast of the old town. A canal has recently 
 been cut across the Isthmus of Corinth, connecting the gulf 
 with the Saronic Gulf; but this is only the carrying out of a 
 project conceived in the early period of the history of Greece, 
 contemplated in the times of Caesar, Nero, and Hadrian, but 
 remaining incomplete until 1881. It was built by a French 
 company, is three and a half miles long, and reduces the journey 
 from Messina to the Piraeus from fifty-eight hours to less than 
 half that time; it also diminishes the journey frorn Messina to 
 Constantinople by two days. Being one hundred feet wide, 
 it is almost as striking in appearance as the Suez Canal. The 
 railway crosses it at the height of two hundred and thirty feet; 
 and there are two breakwaters, each seven hundred and eighty- 
 five feet long, having lighthouses on the ends. 
 
 There is nothing at New Corinth of special interest, as the 
 place is not forty years old. Situated on a narrow isthmus, 
 which connected northern Greece with the Peloponnesus, 
 
•' -isil'^J;/ 
 
 73 
 c 
 
 B' 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 a 
 
 3 
 "E. 
 
 > 
 o 
 
 O 
 o 
 •-( 
 
 5' 
 5- 
 
Corinth. 527 
 
 and near both seas, no city ever had a more favorable sit- 
 uation than Corinth, and from this its ancient renown and 
 prosperity were derived. As a center of trade in the Greek 
 world, until the Persian wars it had but two rivals, ^gina 
 and Miletus, in Asia Minor. By 404 B. C. the glory of Corinth 
 had culminated. It passed through various vicissitudes, each 
 leaving it permanently worse than before, until it was destroyed 
 by Rome under the Consul Lucius Mummius, by whom its ter- 
 ritories were divided, its people enslaved. After this it was 
 uninhabited for a hundred years, when Caesar reestablished 
 it, and its fortunate site gave it speedy prosperity. "This 
 was the Corinth that St, Paul knew, the most splendid com- 
 mercial city of Greece, and the chosen abode of lu.xurious 
 materialism and frivolous immorality." 
 
 But where is its glory now ? Old Corinth lay in the plain, 
 which gradually ascended to the foot of the citadel, and orig- 
 inally had a circumference of five miles; but the walls, which 
 extended to the sea, would make a circuit of fourteen miles. 
 There are some columns, the remains of a temple which is con- 
 sidered one of the oldest Doric monuments. The columns are 
 twentv-three and a half feet high, and nearlv six feet wide at 
 the base. Besides these there are only a few miserable houses 
 and the inn. 
 
 Not a great distance from the tavern is the suburb of 
 Kraneion, where Diogenes lived, and which was the scene of 
 the famous visit to him of Alexander the Great. All that can 
 be seen at Old Corinth is so insignificant as to be scarcely 
 worth a visit; but the ascent to the summit of the Acropolis, 
 or Acro-Corinth, should on no account be omitted. For this 
 our horses were detached from the carriages and saddled for 
 the steep climb of three quarters of an hour, which brought 
 us to a point where they could no longer be used. Three 
 lines of fortifications, built in the Middle Ages, give an almost 
 inaccessible aspect to the citadel. Ruins of houses and chapels 
 are scattered about, and, the prowess and conquests of Venice 
 having extended as far as Corinth, old Venetian cannon still 
 lie there. A cistern nearly one hundred feet long is a relic of 
 the Roman period. 
 
 A steady climb of a half hour was required to reach the sum- 
 
5 28 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 mit of the Acro-Corinth, nearly two thousand feet above the 
 level of the sea. The atmosphere was pellucid, and the view 
 was more helpful to the comprehension of much of the impor- 
 tant geography of Greece tlian any map, however carefully 
 prepared. The mountains of Argolis, beyond which is the 
 plain of Argos; the Arcadian chain, the Corinthian Gulf, like 
 a sea of glass; the mass of mountains in Boeotia, Phocis, and 
 -Ktolia; the Peloponnesian mountains; Parnassus, Helicon, 
 the Hill of the Muses; the Saronic Gulf, Salamis, yEgina, 
 many other islands, and the Attic Peninsula, were all visible, 
 and good eyes could see Athens, with the Acropolis and the 
 Parthenon. This is one of the grand views of the world, equal 
 in beauty to that from the summit of Vesuvius, and far ex- 
 celling it in sublimity. 
 
 The desolation of the Acro-Corinth is not so complete as to 
 obscure all traces of its former grandeur. In the Middle 
 Ages it was of no importance, but in 1558 the Turks captured 
 the fortress. In 1682 the Venetians took it, but it was recap- 
 tured by the Turks in 17 15, who held it till 1821, when the 
 Greeks threw off the Turkish yoke. The ruins illustrate all 
 these struggles. In the worship of ancient Corinth, Apollo 
 received high honors, but Venus was the presiding deity, and 
 on the summit of the Acro-Corinth stood a temple to her, 
 within whose precincts was practiced shameless debauchery, 
 such as the apostle says is not to be nam.ed. 
 
 The community that Paul founded there was continually 
 lapsing. It assists to the understanding of many references in 
 his epistles to remember that there is no reason to believe that 
 the Christian community was at all numerous relatively to the 
 whole population. 
 
 The manners of the people in places of business, upon the 
 streets, and in the hotels show that the Greek people are 
 unusually cheerful, vivacious, intelligent, and graceful. At the 
 churches the ladies are noticeable for symmetry of form, ex- 
 cellent taste in dress, and in some instances for remarkable 
 beauty. In Athens the Greek women generally dress like the rest 
 of the population of Europe, though some, especially the poor, 
 wear a fez adorned with a gold thread tassel. The Albanian 
 costume is worn by many of the men; and the Albanian peas- 
 
CORI.NTH. 
 
 5^9 
 
 ant women are picturesque, in their full waists, embroidered 
 at the sleeves, and kept in place by a leathern girdle, the 
 whole covered with a short, white wool jacket, and with their 
 heads and necks encircled by strings of coins. 
 
 The men of the wealthier class are faultlessly attired, and 
 in public places the better class of children appear respect- 
 ful to their parents, while -on the best of terms with them. 
 What travelers and merchants say of the Greeks is not at all 
 to their credit as respects honesty and truth. A representa- 
 tive of an English house, who has for years traveled in the 
 East, declares that a Greek can outwit a Jew, and an Arme- 
 nian is too sharp for a Greek. I could learn nothing of impor- 
 tance to the formation of an opinion as to the national 
 character of the people. Unfortunately, almost all represen- 
 tations agree in calling them a caricature of the French; there 
 is, however, this to be said : they have a strong desire to improve 
 socially and politically, and are patriotic. Wherever they go 
 they love their own country and wish to return to it, and "it 
 is a common occurrence for Greeks who have 'made fortunes 
 abroad to bequeath or present their wealth to their native 
 country for the erection of churches, schools, or orphanages, 
 the endowment of libraries, or some similar object." Anony- 
 mous gifts are made for benevolent and patriotic purposes in 
 large amounts and in considerable numbers, the good effects 
 of which we saw in several institutions. 
 
 Greece appears to be the original home of the supposed ex- 
 clusively American practice of treating, for when two or more 
 persons drink wine or coffee together ''it is the invariable 
 custom that one pays for all." 
 
 The Greeks have one habit which might be introduced 
 elsewhere with advantage. Men have often looked with 
 envy upon women who converse by the hour, their hands busy 
 with knitting, crocheting, embroidering, or some other oc- 
 cupation which does not employ the mind, whereas men have 
 nothing to do — a fact which has a bearing upon the practice 
 of smoking, whereby in the intervals of conversation they are 
 occupied pleasantly, often forging chains which they would be 
 glad to break. In Greece the men would be supposed to be 
 religious, from the fact that they generally carry strings of 
 
53© Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 beads: they are not, however, rosaries used for religious pur- 
 poses, but "simply supply a mechanical occupation for the 
 hands during conversation," equivalent to Yankee whittling. 
 
 Here, as in Italy, I saw conclusive evidence that the glory 
 of ancient Greece and Rome was due largely to the extraor- 
 dinary situation occupied by these nations. Greece was as near 
 to Asia as to the rest of Europe; Italy near to Greece, and 
 almost in contact with Africa; both of them maritime; both so 
 situated as to have extraordinary commercial advantages, and 
 when they rose into power the remainder of the continent of 
 Europe and adjacent islands was in the hands of barbarians 
 who could not contend successfully with Rome and Greece until 
 those nations were enervated by luxury. The development 
 of the world has moved upon other lines, and it is impossible 
 that Greece should ever become one of the first powers, or that 
 Italy should rival ancient Rome. Those nations, though dead, 
 yet speak in the classic models of architecture and sculpture 
 and the standards of excellence in poetry, oratory, and even 
 philosophy. 
 
 . I cam.e away from Greece convinced that it is a misnomer to 
 speak of Greek as a dead language. A student who will take 
 the trouble to examine the specimens of English used three 
 hundred years ago will find that modern Greek as a written 
 language is more like ancient Greek than modern English is 
 like ancient English. But with spoken Greek it is not so. It 
 is said to require a month of close study in Athens, under a 
 teacher, for a- person familiar with ancient Greek to become 
 qualified to converse with the people. 
 
 To the traveler in health I unhesitatingly recommend Greece 
 for knowledge or pleasure. Eight weeks, half of them spent 
 in the saddle, is a sufficient allowance for general travelers; 
 but if one cannot stay more than a fortnight, he should select 
 a few things rather than attempt many; for Greece, like 
 Egypt, is confusing unless time be taken for assimilation. 
 
Constantinople. 531 
 
 CHAPTER LXIV. 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Salonica— Mount Athos— The Dardanelles— Beauty of Constantinople Seen 
 from the Sea of Marmora— The Golden Horn— Constantinople Made up of 
 Three Dissimilar Cities— Disenchantment— Dr. Long— The Seraglio— Im- 
 perial Gate — Santa Sophia. 
 
 From Athens we returned to the Piraeus to embark for 
 Constantinople. The sky was clear and the sea smooth. 
 Standing upon the deck we looked long upon the mountains, 
 finding our farewell glimpses even more impressive and pleas- 
 ing than those obtained on arriving. It is impossible that the 
 effect of sea, land, and sky should not in large measure have 
 given their character to the Greeks. The most stolid could 
 not gaze unmoved. Energy breathes in the air and dashes in 
 the waves. Adventurous fishermen, sturdv farmers, enter- 
 prising merchants, active colonists, with the products of art, 
 the effusions of poetry, and the impulses of oratory, found 
 not only congenial surroundings, but adequate sources and re- 
 sources in this wonderful land. 
 
 We were now to traverse a sea as renowned as any upon 
 whose waters we had sailed. As the steamer moved northward 
 along the coast, during the day our eyes were strained to 
 identify the more celebrated points, and in the night to dis- 
 cern the lights upon the mainland and islands, each suggesting 
 some name famous in times of old. Soon we reached the 
 gulf and shore of Salonica, a part of ancient Macedonia, other- 
 wise Thessalonica. To the Thessalonians Paul wrote his 
 Epistles. There, too, Cicero lived as an exile. The city of 
 Salonica has a population of more than a hundred thousand. 
 
 Another prominent feature is Mount Athos, standing upon 
 one of the three prongs of the peninsula, bounded by the Gulf 
 of Salonica on the southwest and the sea on the northeast. It 
 is a resort of pilgrims, has one or more monasteries supported 
 by each of the different nations recognizing the Greek Church, 
 
532 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 and other places of i)rivate reliremeni under the influence of 
 esoteric principles. 
 
 Constan tine's mother is credited with being the founder of 
 the first of these monasteries. No woman is allowed upon 
 the peninsula, and all female animals are excluded. Even 
 the Turkish officer cannot have a woman in his house. The 
 government is by a holy synod of twenty deputies, one from 
 each monastery, and four chosen from the community. 
 
 Among the islands, Samothracia, Tenedos, and Lemnos 
 are the most important. Threading the cluster of little islets 
 at the mouth of the Hellespont, we entered the strait, the 
 current being strong enough to retard our progress, and passed 
 in succession the points where Xerxes's bridge of boats was 
 built, where the army of Alexander crossed from Europe to 
 Asia, where the crescent was first planted in Europe, A. D. 
 1360, by Suliman, son of Orchan, and where Leander and Lord 
 Byron swam across. 
 
 Two ancient fortresses, called the castles of Europe and Asia, 
 stand here, where the strait is but eight hundred yards wide. 
 That on the Asiatic side is known as the "Earthenware 
 Castle, " from a famous manufactory of pottery. If properly 
 fortified, it would be impossible for hostile vessels to pass. In 
 old times brass guns and stone shot were used, but now some 
 of the forts are supplied with Krupp guns. 
 
 Finally we emerged into the Sea of Marmora, occupying 
 ourselves with the thought of approaching a city built to rival 
 and supersede Rome; an event contributing to the destruc- 
 tion of the most stupendous empire of the world. This sea is 
 one hundred and eight miles long. 
 
 Of all descriptions, none are so florid as those of the ap- 
 proach to Constantinople and of the Sea of Marmora; even 
 the prosaic compilers of guidebooks unite to assert that there 
 is no lovelier scene upon earth than that which confronts the 
 traveler who approaches Constantinople. De Amicis, the 
 romantic, gives a summary of the observations of celebrated 
 writers who are in despair of attaining a true description. 
 " Perthusiers stammers; Tournefort says that language is 
 impotent; Fonqueville thinks himself transported to another 
 planet; La Croix is bewildered; the Vicomte de Marcellus be- 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 O 
 
 •o 
 
 3 
 
 S- 
 n> 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 (D 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 O 
 
 
 7 5' ^4«iT ■' •' 
 
 
 
 
 mm 
 
 
 
Constantinople. 535 
 
 comes ecstatic; Lamartine gives thanks to God; Gautier doubts 
 tile reality of what he sees." He further says that a cold (ier- 
 man declares that the loveliest illusions uf youth, and even 
 the dreams of a first love, are pale imaginations in the pres- 
 ence of that sense of sweetness that j)ervades the soul at the 
 sight of this enchanted region. Chateaubriand, though writ- 
 ing coolly, says that it is the most beautiful spectacle in the 
 world. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu puts "perhaps" be- 
 fore that description, "as if leaving the first place to her own 
 beauty." 
 
 The captain advised us to rise before dawn, as the finest 
 view is to be obtained at that time. Principal Bancroft and 
 myself were on deck among the earliest, but the youngest 
 member of our party overslept, to his sorrow and ours also; for 
 without attempting what the most skillful descriptive writers 
 have failed in, I declare the spectacle to be marvelous. 
 
 The situation of Constantinople would give to any cit)' a 
 magnificent appearance in whatever style of architecture con- 
 structed. The Sea of Marmora is clasped to the Black Sea, 
 the Euxine of antiquity, b}' the Bosporus, an arm seventeen 
 miles long, and varying in breadth from six hundred yards to 
 two miles. In the middle it is about two thousand eight hundred 
 feet wide. Bosporus appears to be an ancient name, signifying 
 literally Ox-ford. There is a legend that it was given to the 
 strait because across it swam lo, transformed into a cow. 
 Others suppose that the name was given because the strait is 
 so narrow that an ox could swim it. The name was common 
 in antiquity, and therefore tliis was called the Thracia?i Bos- 
 porus. 
 
 We left the Sea of ^Marmora, and passed into the Bosporus, 
 which here divides Europe from Asia. There are several gulfs, 
 each forming two promontories. By far the most important 
 of these is reached soon after entering the strait. It is at 
 right angles with the Bosporus, and appears at first so to con- 
 tinue; but on entering Europe it curves like the horn of an ox, 
 and this is the far-famed Golden Horn. It was anciently the 
 port of Byzantium, founded nearly seven hundred years be- 
 fore Christ, on the promontory which faces Asia and stems 
 the waters of the Bosporus; and because through it flowed the 
 
C36 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 commerce of three continents it is worthy to be called the 
 "Horn of Abundance." Through all the early ages the an- 
 cients fought for Byzantium, notably the Persians, Spartans, 
 and .\thenians. It was to stir the Athenians to help to defend 
 that city against Philip of Macedon that Demosthenes delivered 
 his greatest oration. The tradition is that as the Macedo- 
 nians were about to succeed, a light appeared in the heavens in 
 the form of a crescent, by means of which they saw and es- 
 caped their danger. When the Mohammedans finally conquered 
 Constantinople they found upon the Byzantine coins the cres- 
 cent commemorating this event, therefore it was adopted as 
 the device of the conquerors of Constantinople. 
 
 ^Vhen Rome conquered the Grecian world Byzantium came 
 uiider its control, and in A. D. 330 was made by Constantine 
 the seat of his empire. In 668 the Arabs attacked it, but the 
 mighty walls and Greek fire repelled them. Though besieged 
 by Russians and by Latin crusaders and Mohammedans, not 
 until 1453 was it finally captured by the Turks under Moham- 
 med II. 
 
 It has suffered twenty-four sieges, eighteen of which it re- 
 sisted successfully. 
 
 Constantinople now really consists of three distinct and dis- 
 similar cities. Stamboul, the Turkish city, occupies the site 
 in large part of Byzantium; the Sea of Marmora on the south, 
 the Golden Horn to the north, and the Bosporus to the east. 
 In shape it is triangular, and it requires a ride of fourteen 
 miles to make the circuit of the sides. The Golden Horn is 
 twenty-five hundred feet wide at the mouth, but gradually 
 narrows. Stamboul, like Rome, rests upon seven hills: to the 
 north, on steep slopes and over the summits of hills, are the 
 suburbs of Galata, Pera, and Tophane. On the other side 
 are the European cities of Galata and Pera, and a mile away, 
 and the same distance from Stamboul across the Bosporus, 
 spread over the hills and opposite the mouth of the Golden 
 Horn, is the Asiatic quarter, Scutari. 
 
 We gazed upon the walls with their towers, against which 
 the sea breaks; Santa Sophia; the countless minarets; the 
 spruces, pines, firs, and sycamores; the purple and yellow 
 houses, the gardens, the mountains in the distance; the waters 
 
Constantinople. 537 
 
 brilliant in the warm sunlight; the golden domes of the Greek 
 churches. One minaret is not especially imposing, but hun- 
 dreds, in different colors, in close proximity to domes, produce 
 an indescribable charm. In the distance was Kadi Kaioi, 
 built upon the ruins of the ancient Calcedonia, once the rival 
 of Byzantium; that Calcedonia which was founded B.C. 685 
 by the Megarians, to whom, for having chosen that site instead 
 of the point where Stamboul stands, the oracle of Delphi gave 
 the title of the blind people. 
 
 Of all illustrations of distance lending enchantment to the 
 view this stands preeminent. As sunset after a day of fogs is 
 sometimes glorious, and a few moments afterward the clouds 
 lower and night closes in mist, so when one wanders about the 
 streets of Constantinople he finds that De Amicis does not exag- 
 gerate when he says: " The vision of this morning has vanished. 
 The Constantinople of light and beauty has given place to a 
 monstrous city scattered over an infinity of hills and valleys; it is 
 a labyrinth of human ant-hills, cemeteries, ruins, and solitudes; 
 a confusion of civilization and barbarism which presents an 
 image of all the cities upon earth, and gathers to itself all the 
 aspects of human life. It is but the skeleton of a city, of which 
 the smaller part is walls and the rest an enormous aggregation 
 of barracks, an interminable Asiatic encampment, in which 
 swarms a population which has never been counted, of every 
 race and every religion. It is a city in process of transforma- 
 tion, composed of cities in decay, cities of yesterday, and 
 cities now being born; everything is in confusion; on every 
 side are seen traces of gigantic works, mountains pierced, hills 
 cut down, houses leveled to the ground, great streets designed: 
 an immense mass of rubbish and remains of conflagration upon 
 ground forever tormented by the hand of man. . . . Take a 
 step in advance, behold a wide panorama; take another back- 
 ward, there is nothing to be seen; lift your eyes, a thousand 
 minarets; descend one step, they are all gone. . . . An in- 
 describable architecture, apparently of expedienc)'', lends itself 
 to the caprices of the ground, with a crowd of houses cut into 
 points in the form of triangular towers, of erect and overturned 
 pyramids, surrounded with bridges, ditches, props, gathered 
 together like broken fragments of a mountain." 
 
533 Travels in 'I'iikkk Continents. 
 
 Experience of many cities built upon hills had taufi;ht nie 
 that the perspective is continually foreshortened, and that 
 darkness and dampness in many quarters are the price paid 
 for light and splendor in others. Neither is it possible to 
 have rectangular streets, nor to avoid tunnels, precipices, and 
 embankments. Yet the constant transitions of view yield 
 successive surprises and contrasts, which give to such cities a 
 charm that those built upon plains can never possess unless 
 they contain a multitude of domes, towers, and spires. It was 
 to do away with the littleness and monotony of the plains that 
 the mighty temples, obelisks, pyramids, and colossi of Egypt 
 were erected. 
 
 It took considerable time to recognize the ephemeral char- 
 acter of the beauty and grandeur of the view which had held 
 us entranced upon the ship's deck, amid the morning dews and 
 damps, from three o'clock until we landed at eight. We then 
 began to plan a systematic exploration of the city, the result 
 of which was new wonderment which remains to this day. 
 
 At intervals for years I had promised an old friend. Dr. 
 Long, of Robert College, to visit him in Constantinople, and 
 at last had been able to inform him of the probable time 
 of my arrival. Before we were fairly settled he honored us 
 with a call, and placed his time at our service. It was a de- 
 light to see the universal consideration with which he is 
 treated in the city where he has spent so many years; and it 
 was a constant surprise to observe him talking with Turks in 
 Turkish, Bulgarians in Bulgarian, Germans in German, and 
 Frenchmen in French; indeed, he seemed as a magician, in- 
 dependent of the common limitations of humanity. Every 
 man whom he met heard him in his own tongue; not as cour- 
 iers who chatter like magpies their familiar phrases, but as 
 one who understood the language critically, made it second 
 nature, and spoke it with the facility of a native. Yet Dr. 
 Long is such a many-sided man that he is not Professor of 
 Languages, as might be supposed, but of Natural Sciences. 
 He is practically the physician among the Turks of the region 
 around the college, and the people who were constantly com- 
 ing and going seemed to regard him as an arbiter of life and 
 death. 
 
Constantinople. 539 
 
 Taking carriages, we made the circuit of the walls of Stam- 
 boul. They were built by Constantine the Great, and by his 
 successors repaired in alternate courses of brick and stone, 
 and extend along both shores close to the sea, the founda- 
 tion sometimes being under water. The length of the walls 
 is about thirteen miles. A traveler who has seen every 
 important wall on the face of the globe declares that the 
 walls of defense which extend from the seven towers on the 
 Sea of Alarmora to the shore of the Golden Horn are not 
 surpassed elsewhere in the world in beauty or desolation. 
 "These are the walls," says a French traveler, "of Constan- 
 tine — at least, what is left of them after time, sieges, and 
 earthquakes have done their worst." The breaches made by 
 catapults and ancient battering rams are plainly to be seen. 
 Some of the towers are rent and their fragments tumbled into 
 the ditch, and they are everywhere overgrown with rank grass, 
 trees, shrubs, and in some cases are held up by the roots and 
 branches of plants. It is a triple wall, with two rows of 
 towers. The late Sultan Abdul Aziz gave these to his mother 
 to be destroyed and sold for building materials, and but for 
 the interposition of the British minister one of the finest re- 
 mains of antiquity would have been destroyed. 
 
 During this tour we were accompanied by Professor Millin- 
 gen, of Robert College, who has made a special study of me- 
 diaeval architectural remains, and enlightened us upon many 
 points. 
 
 The Seraglio presents as great a contrast to what it was as 
 the Alhambra, yet it is one of the principal features of Con- 
 stantinople. The palace stands on the extreme point of the 
 promontory at the mouth of the Golden Horn, which stretches 
 toward Asia at the entrance to the Bosporus. The half- 
 ruined state of the walls and towers at first strikes the eye, 
 but not unpleasantly. Like the Alhambra, the buildings, hav- 
 ing been erected at different times, according to the caprice 
 of the princes and Sultans, form an establishment destitute of 
 harmony. The buildings are on the top of the hill, and the 
 gardens below reach to the sea. The huge trees, the grass 
 contrasting with the sparkling waters of the Bosporus, the 
 ruined walls, and the structures on the high plateau, give a 
 28 
 
540 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 splendid prospect to an observer from the lower points, and 
 especially from the deck of a vessel. 
 
 The Sublime Porte, otherwise called the Babi Humaioom, 
 or Imperial Gate, has arrangements for luxurious living more 
 elaborate than the world ever saw elsewhere. The kitchens 
 have no chinuieys, but are surmounted by perforated ilomes 
 through which the smoke escaped. There are nine kitchens; 
 the first was for the Sultan, the second for the chief Sultana, 
 the third for the other Sultanas, and the remainder for the 
 officers and servants. Since the time of Sultan Mahniood 
 the Ottoman emperors have not lived there, but in the days 
 of its glory the Grand Vizier, assisted by his counselors, therein 
 determined all causes without appeal. In the same center of 
 authority and regal magnificence embassadors were enter- 
 tained. Interesting collections of jewels, oriental weapons, 
 carpets, chairs, clocks, etc., are exhibited to the curious. 
 
 Had I not already described the mosques of Morocco, 
 Algiers, Egypt, and Jerusalem, I should attempt a description 
 of several of the mosques of Constantinople; but as all are 
 similar in general features, I shall mention but two in this 
 conglomeration of Mohammedan ecclesiastical edifices. 
 
 Santa Sophia was founded in A. D. 325, the twentieth year 
 of the reign of Constantine, the year in which was opened the 
 Council of Nice, and was dedicated to the second Person of the 
 Holy Trinity, Eternal Wisdom. In 404 it was set on fire by 
 the followers of Chrysostom when they were exiled; rebuilt by 
 Theodosius II in 415; burned to the ground in 532 in the time 
 of Justinian, and by him rebuilt and greatly enlarged in 538. 
 Twenty years afterward the eastern half of the dome fell, but 
 was rebuilt still more magnificently. To adorn it the finest 
 marble, granite, and porphyry were brought from all parts of 
 the world; eight columns from the Temple of the Sun at Baal- 
 bec, and many from Athens, Troas, Heliopolis, and Ephesus. 
 The Mohammedans have modified it, and on the minarets glit- 
 ter crescents, and the cupola is of vast size. Various mirac- 
 ulous sites are pointed out and curiosities shown; among them 
 the cradle of the Saviour, and the basin in which he is said to 
 have been bathed. There is a column which sweats, and the 
 Turks believe that the dampness which gathers upon it will 
 
o 
 c 
 
 0> 
 
 to 
 
 3 
 
 to 
 o 
 
Constantinople. 543 
 
 produce miraculous cures. There is a mysterious window and 
 a stone of beautiful pure Persian marble, almost transparent, 
 which reflects the rays of the sun with dazzling brilliancy. 
 
 Having taken off our shoes according to the law, we entered 
 the mosque, passing the cistern, the fountain of ablution, to 
 which every Mohammedan goes as he enters the holy place. 
 
 The mutilation of the crosses by the Turks was apparent. To 
 one standing beneath the dome it seemed as though balanced 
 in the air. This marvelous achievement of architecture is one 
 hundred and seven feet in diameter, rises forty-six feet, and is 
 elevated one hundred and eighty feet above the ground. On 
 the walls are the names of the four attendants of the Prophet. 
 They seem to be supporting four six-winged seraphim, repre- 
 senting Mohammedan archangels, Gabriel, Michael, Raphael, 
 and Israfel, whose names are inscribed in letters ten yards 
 long. The original altar built by the Christians faced the 
 east, but the Mohammedans could not use it; for according 
 to their law every man must pray with his face toward Mecca, 
 which is southeast from Constantinople. The pulpitis on the 
 same line. Every Friday the prayer is read for the Sultan, and 
 the Sheik who reads it has to carry a wooden sword into the 
 pulpit, which has been the usage in all mosques first dedicated 
 to Islam through the power of arms, in remembrance of the 
 custom of Mohammed, who preached with the Koran in one 
 hand and the sword in the other. Two flags hang there to 
 show the victory of Islam over Judaism and Christianity, and 
 of the Koran over the Old and New^ Testaments. 
 
 As I was turning away from Santa Sophia, thinking it more 
 magnificent than St. Peter's at Rome, but hardly daring to 
 suggest such a thought, a traveler called my attention to a 
 passage in the second volume of Ferguson's Architecture, in 
 which the author expresses doubts whether "any Christian 
 church exists of any age whose interior is so beautiful as this 
 marvelous creation of Byzantine art." 
 
544 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 CHAPTER LXV. 
 Constantinople. — (Continued.) 
 
 The Sultan's Forty -seventh Birthday — The Floating Bridge — Along the 
 Shore of the Bosporus to the Black Sea — Ships and Boats — The Arme- 
 nians — Head of the Greek Church — Support of Mosques — Muezzin — Phil- 
 anthropies of the Mosque of Suliman — Spinning Dervishes — Robert Col- 
 lege. 
 
 We arrived in Constantinople on the forty-seventh anni- 
 versary of the Sultan's birth, and at night the city was gor- 
 geously illuminated. My enthusiastic traveling companion 
 declared that he had never seen anything comparable to the 
 brilliancy and variety of the pyrotechnic displays of that 
 occasion. Despots while in power are certain to be honored. 
 Practically they praise themselves; the people pay the bills 
 nolens volens, but as they enjoy the spectacle, such exhibitions 
 of sovereign power and glory may be among the most potent 
 means of sustaining the institutions. The late Czar of 
 Russia was received with eclat on his visit to Warsaw, but, 
 a day or two before, I had seen hundreds of those who would 
 not do him honor dragged to the citadel, and in the streets 
 through which he would pass the windows were ordered closed, 
 and sei:itinels stationed everywhere lest the bullet of the 
 assassin, sent from his lurking place, find its way to the 
 brain or heart of the subject of such seemingly unanimous 
 praises. The history of modern Turkey shows that soon after 
 such celebrations the Sultan may drink a cup of coffee that 
 disagrees with him ! 
 
 A floating bridge, a quarter of a mile long, connects Galata 
 with the opposite shore of the Golden Horn. It would be 
 worth a journey of a week each year of one's life to stand for 
 three hours at the end of that structure. 
 
 "The exhaustless currents of human beings that meet and 
 mingle forever from the rising of the sun until his setting 
 presents a spectacle before which the market places of India, 
 the fair of Nijni Novgorod, and the festivals of Peking pale." 
 
o 
 [/) 
 •a 
 
 o 
 
 "-t 
 c 
 
 00 
 
 D 
 O- 
 
 O 
 (/) 
 cT 
 o 
 
 > 
 
Constantinople. 547 
 
 The fair of Nijni Novgorod surpasses for the same period 
 of time this pageant; but it lasts only a few days, while 
 these scenes continue winter and summer, from generation 
 to generation. Turks on donkeys, long lines of camels; 
 Negresses, Armenians, Greek women with skullcaps and 
 streaming hair, Mohammedan women on foot, veiled wom- 
 en, Tartars clad in sheepskins; Catholic priests and sisters 
 of charity, Persians, Jews, English travelers, Frenchmen, 
 Germans, easily identified; friars of different orders, some 
 bald and others wearing cowls; military officers; men 
 wearing the uniforms of the navies of the different nations; 
 peasants, dervishes, Circassians, "who go in groups of three 
 and five together with slow steps; big bearded men, of ter- 
 rible countenance, wearing bearskin caps like the old Napo- 
 leonic Guard, long black caftans, daggers at their girdles, 
 and silver cartridge boxes on their breasts; real figures of 
 banditti, who look as if they had come to Constantinople to 
 sell a daughter or a sister, their hands imbrued in Russian 
 blood." We went to this bridge half a dozen times, and 
 learned to distinguish the Bulgarians, Georgians, Cossacks, 
 Egyptians, and other races. 
 
 The contrasts in costume and colors were astonishing. So 
 many languages, intensified by the characteristic voices of 
 different peoples, some a terrible guttural bass, others a me- 
 tallic baritone, and still others rising into shrill cries and 
 piercing shrieks, made a startling jargon. 
 
 The people of Constantinople are continually embarking 
 and disembarking. The configuration of the city makes it 
 possible to go from business to residence by steamers, much 
 after the manner of the population of London along the 
 Thames, or of Paris along the Seine. Many steamers on the 
 Bosporus pass alternately along the Asiatic and European 
 shores, and excursions can be made at will. The beauty of the 
 scenery is enhanced by unusual formations; for the Bosporus 
 is really a chain of lakes formed by several promontories on 
 the European shore. " Seven currents in seven different di- 
 rections follow windings of the shore. Each has a counter 
 current, whereby the water driven by violence into the several 
 bays thus flows upward in an opposite direction into the other 
 
548 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 half of the chaiint'l." Jiesides, there are seven bays on the 
 European side,- corresponding to the promontories on the 
 Asiatic, and only the unimaginative spirit could fail U) dis- 
 cern what changes of scenery must result from shores thus 
 broken. The Turkish names of the villages are wonder- 
 fully suggestive. A few on the European side are historically 
 significant, others pastorally. Galata, the abode of the god; 
 Tophane, artillery manufacture; others signify the dried 
 fountain; the farm village; European poplar; the babe; the 
 hazel nut village. On the Asiatic side are the point of quails, 
 the lig village, the heavenly water. One has a tragic signiii- 
 cance, the bloody; another a restful sound, the weary man's 
 village. 
 
 Dr. Long accompanied us to the Black Sea, pointing out 
 the palaces, villas, and historical points. From the remot- 
 est point of time of which records have been preserved, the 
 dangers of navigation at the entrance of the Bosporus to the 
 Black Sea have been great. 
 
 The Symplegades, otherwise the Cyanean rocks, are those 
 through which Jason sailed to capture the golden fleece. 
 Beacons have been recently erected, light-ships placed at the 
 entrance, and a service according to the practice of more west- 
 ern nations has been established for the saving of lives. 
 
 The Giant's Mountain is the highest hill on the shores of the 
 Bosporus, and the view from it is thus described by Byron: 
 
 " Tlie wind swept down the Euxine, and the wave 
 
 Broke foaming o'er the blue Symplegades. 
 'Tis a grand sight from off the ' Giant's Grave ' 
 
 To watch the progress of these rolling seas 
 Between the Bosporus, as they lash and lave 
 
 Europe and Asia, you being quite at ease." 
 
 We reached sufficient elevations in some of our tours to real- 
 ize the correctness of Byron's description. He subsequently 
 describes, in language not quite in harmony with the standard 
 of this age, the tendency of the dangerous breakers on the 
 Euxine to produce seasickness. 
 
 The Mohammedans say that Joshua is buried on the summit 
 of the Giant's Mountain, and Dr. Long informed us that the 
 Turks make pilgrimages to the summit in order to be cured of 
 
CONSTAXTIXOPLE. 549 
 
 diseases. They pray at the tomb and drink, in a cup of water, 
 some of the sand. They also leave pieces of their clothes 
 hanging there, on the theory that as the fragments are aired 
 the disease will disappear. 
 
 A delightful excursion was taken on the Golden Horn. On 
 these boats the fares are so low, the crowds so great, the 
 steamers so peculiar, and the divisions upon them so arbitrary, 
 as to give a stranger a feeling of insecurity. But the inhab- 
 itants, accustomed to things, have no fear, and accidents are 
 infrequent. 
 
 Ironclads, war vessels, passenger steamers from every coun- 
 try in Europe, ships laden with corn from Russia or from the 
 countries along the Danube, Greek and Turkish coasters, 
 surround one, and among them " hundreds of kaiks go, and 
 swift as dragon-flies flit here and there with loads of gold- 
 bedizened beys or veiled women." 
 
 The spectacle which entrances the traveler has no effect 
 upon the individuals who afford it. They never look at each 
 other, have marvelous agility in keeping out of each other's 
 way, and most of them, except where two or three are travel- 
 ing together, are as silent and grave in their appearance as if 
 on their way to a funeral, though hurrying as if belated. 
 
 The Armenians in Constantinople are an important part of 
 the population. Their country, an elevated plain, the height 
 of the central divide between the Atlantic and Pacific, culmi- 
 nating in Mount Ararat, was for ages the frontier of Chris- 
 tianity. The Armenians, wherever found, are men of influence 
 and ability, surpassing both Greeks and Jews in commercial 
 enterprise, especially in the Turkish empire. Having visited 
 their churches in Russia, Jerusalem, Greece, and Smyrna, I 
 was curious to see them in Constantinople, and found their 
 ritual, while resembling that of the Greek Church, to be less 
 paganish. The American Board has been very successful in 
 Constantinople among Armenians. 
 
 The head of the universal Greek Church is the Patriarch of 
 Constantinople, and is greatly venerated. The Russians and 
 several other peoples, however, will not submit to his jurisdic- 
 tion. The one requisite among the Armenians is ability to 
 read the prayers and lessons, and the unusual spectacle is pre- 
 
5^0 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 sen ted of a large religious organization whose priests are in- 
 ferior in point of education and culture to the majority of their 
 people. The Greek priests are often still more ignorant. 
 
 Struck by the number of mosques, 1 inquired how they are 
 supported. They are heavily endowed, holding a species of 
 mortgage on tracts of land in the city, which are sold subject 
 to ground rent, or mosque tax. If one proposes to purchase 
 real estate in Constantinople the first question to be asked is 
 whether it is thus subject, and, if so, to what extent; for who- 
 ever purchases must pay tribute to the mosque. 
 
 1 frequently listened to the call to prayer known as the 
 muezzin. At the appointed time the proper officer ascends 
 the minaret, and walks around, uttering words which cause 
 every faithful Mohammedan to perform his devotions. The 
 call signifies: "God is good! Bear witness that there is no 
 god but God. Bear witness that Mohammed is the prophet 
 of God. Come to praj-er! Come to felicity! God is great! 
 There is no god but God." 
 
 The Mosque of Suliman the Magnificent, though built on the 
 general pattern of Santa Sophia, was intended to surpass it. The 
 result was the most beautiful extant specimen of architecture 
 originally intended for a mosque. Here are the largest mono- 
 liths in Constantinople. The windows are ornamented with 
 flowers; the two finest, of stained glass, were captured from 
 the Persians by the founder. Besides being a place of worship, 
 it is a philanthropic institution, supporting three schools, four 
 academies for the four different sects of the faithful, a school 
 of medicine, a hospital, a kitchen for the poor, a resting place 
 for tourists, a library, a fountain, and a house of refuge for 
 strangers. 
 
 The Sultan's weekly journey to the mosque for religious wor- 
 ship is an event in Constantinople. Having obtained through 
 Mr. Straus, the minister of the United States, a permit to 
 enter a house owned by the Sultan, we were present at the ap- 
 pointed time, immediately in front of the mosque. Usually 
 the Sultan starts about twelve o'clock, and the name of the 
 particular mosque he intends to visit is made known a little 
 before that hour. The way was lined with troops, the body- 
 guard of the Sultan in splendid uniform leading the proces- 
 
D 
 
 
Constantinople. 553 
 
 sion. Until recently he went on horseback, but on this oc- 
 casion sat in a carriage, which passed near us. He was a grave, 
 solemn-looking man, appearing much older than he really 
 is; his beard iron gray, complexion sallow, and his eyes were 
 heavy. 
 
 On this occasion there were several thousand troops, and 
 the display was fine. When the Sultan had passed, coffee and 
 sherbet were served to us, after which we withdrew. 
 
 Accompanied by Professor Long, who explained the vari- 
 ous steps of the performance, we visited the spinning der- 
 vishes. They are named Mevlevi, and performed in a con- 
 vent known as Tekke. As they enter the circular mosque, 
 monotonous music is heard, which is performed upon a kind 
 of flute. The chief seats himself, and the dervishes bow before 
 him; having removed their outer garments, they extend their 
 arms, raise their heads, and begin to spin. 
 
 They were grave and serious, keeping perfect time, and 
 their motions were, though rapid, so regular and easy that 
 their garments appeared to be a part of themselves. It is 
 suspected that their skirts are w'eighted, as it seems impossi- 
 ble that they should so perfectly follow the movements of 
 the body unless they received an impulse which could not be 
 communicated to light fabrics. Dr. Long represented them 
 as a worthy class of Turkish citizens. Viewed as dancers, 
 they are entitled to praise for the perfection of their move- 
 ments; but they exhibited systematic fanaticism rather than 
 genuine ecstasy. There was no indication of loss of conscious- 
 ness as there was with the howling dervishes. 
 
 More than seventy orders of dervishes exist in the Moham- 
 medan world, some composed of intelligent men. I was in- 
 troduced to a Sheik, and visited him at his residence, being 
 received with oriental courtesy, and by the aid of an inter- 
 preter had a memorable religious conversation. The secrets 
 of the worship of that order I could not penetrate, as no one is 
 allowed to be present; but the room and its contents were 
 shown to us. The views expressed of the Deity by that di- 
 vine do not differ as to the divine attributes from those pre- 
 vailing among Christians. He gave a definite rank to Jesus 
 Christ, like most Mohammedans, regarding him as one of three 
 
554 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 prophets, Moses, Christ, and Mohammed, of whom the last is 
 the greatest. 
 
 Robert College, to which so many Americans have contrib- 
 uted, is situated on the heights of Rounieli Hissar, which 
 rise on the shore of the Bosporus, not far from the village of 
 Bebek. The professors are gentlemen of high character and 
 culture; the spirit of the institution all that could be desired. 
 It encounters a difficulty not met in anything like the same 
 degree at Beirut, in the number of languages and dialects 
 spoken by the students. 
 
 The history of this now celebrated college blends the philo- 
 sophical and the romantic. The American missionaries in 
 Turkey found, after a short time, that without the means of a 
 higher education their work would come to a standstill. This 
 situation became known to Christopher R. Robert, a New 
 York merchant, who in i860 proposed to Dr. Hamlin to sun- 
 der his connection with the American Board and come to 
 America to raise money for the object. Mr. Robert agreed 
 to pay his expenses and give him ten thousand dollars to start 
 the subscription. At that time he had no idea of founding a 
 college and no thought of giving it his name, but he went 
 on until, including what he bequeathed, he had given over 
 four hundred thousand dollars to the college. 
 
 In 1863 Dr. Hamlin opened the college with four stu- 
 dents. On July 4, 1869, the corner stone was laid. The new 
 building was finished in May, 1871, and when the new year 
 began in September, one hundred and seventy students were 
 enrolled. For a number of years the Turks refused to grant 
 an imperial charter. Since they granted the charter the rights 
 of the college have been respected, and additional favors have 
 been granted when asked. While they have sought to coun- 
 teract the influence of the college, they have done it " in a 
 legitimate way by the founding of schools and colleges of their 
 own, and trying to make them more attractive than Robert 
 College." 
 
 During its history the institution has had one thousand five 
 hundred and fifty-one students; and the average time spent 
 by the nongraduates is three, and by the graduates six years. 
 
 The majority have been Americans, Bulgarians, and Greeks; 
 
Constantinople. 
 
 DOO 
 
 and they have had, besides these, Austrians, Circassians, Al- 
 banians, Jews, Persians, Russians, Armenians, Assyrians, Ser- 
 vians, and Turks, and a few Danes, Frenchmen, Italians, 
 Germans, and English. Of the alumni, forty-six have be- 
 come government officials, many of high rank; twelve judges, 
 seventy-one teachers, including professors and principals; ten 
 editors, twenty-two lawyers, twenty-four physicians; the ma- 
 jority of the students have become merchants and bankers, 
 now scattered all over the world. 
 
 As the higher schools in Constantinople are openly atheistic, 
 while there is great jealousy among the Greek and Armenian 
 Churches of the advance of Protestantism, their most distin- 
 guished ecclesiastical authorities are disposed to support Robert 
 College as a bulwark against atheism. 
 
 George Washburn, D.D., is President, and Professor of 
 Psychology, Ethics, and Political Economy. Dr. Long, who 
 originally w^ent to Turkey and Bulgaria as a missionary of the 
 Methodist Episcopal Church, is Vice President, and Professor 
 of Natural Sciences. 
 
556 Travels in Three Coniinents. 
 
 CHAPTER LXVI. 
 
 Constantinople. — (Concluded.) 
 
 Turkish Burying Grounds of Scutari — English Cemetery and Florence Night- 
 ingale's Hospital — American Bible House — Portraits of the Sultans — Rise 
 and Fall of the Janizaries — The Turk — Column of the Three Serpents — 
 Fountains — Censorship of the Press — A Translator Perforce — The Sultan 
 and Laborer. 
 
 Scutari is the largest of the suburbs of Constantinople, and 
 has been for ages the post station for Asiatic couriers, the 
 rendezvous of caravans from Asia, and is the point where 
 travelers going East begin their journey. It, too, has seven 
 hills. 
 
 The burj'ing grounds at Scutari are extensive and beautiful. 
 A careful writer says that probably an accurate census of the 
 present Turkish population would not be found to exceed the 
 twentieth part of the tenants of that single cemetery. Every 
 Turk has his own grave. 
 
 The tombstones are of Marmora marble, and those which 
 mark the graves of men have carved upon them a representa- 
 tion of the headdress which they wore in life. Sultan JSIah- 
 mood's favorite horse is interred in this cemetery under a 
 marble canopy resting upon six columns. 
 
 The English burying ground is near the hospital, the scene 
 of the labors which made immortal the name of Florence 
 Nightingale. The tombs of many British officers, some of dis- 
 tinction, are here, and beneath mounds are the remains of 
 eight thousand nameless dead. The hospital has been turned 
 into barracks. 
 
 We ascended hills whence we commanded a splendid pros- 
 pect of Stamboul, the Bosporus, Sea of Marmora, glimpses of 
 the Black Sea and far-off mountains of Asia and Europe. 
 
 The renowned Bible House of Constantinople is well adapted 
 to its purpose; marked in all its departments by evidences of 
 
Constantinople. 557 
 
 American energy, and also by indications of conservative 
 management. 
 
 Looking from an upper window I perceived a long, low 
 block near by, and said to Mr. JMiss, who w'as conducting us 
 through the establishment: 
 
 ''Does the Bible House corporation own that block? " 
 
 "It does not." 
 
 "When that is removed, if buildings of the character of 
 others in the street are erected, your views from these win- 
 dows will be cut off." 
 
 " No," said he, " they cannot do that; we own the air.'' 
 
 " What does that mean? " 
 
 " There is a custom in Constantinople of selling the 
 air above houses, which makes it impossible for the owner 
 to build above a certain point, and we have taken the pre- 
 caution to purchase the air between here and the end of the 
 block." 
 
 At the Treasury we saw^ bowds full of rubies and other precious 
 stones, reminding me of the magnificence of Russia. Thence 
 we went to a kiosk, which commands entrancing prospects of 
 the gardens and the Golden Horn. 
 
 One of the members of the "great house of Vanderbilt " 
 was present, and the consul general paid special attention 
 to him and to his party. This made another wealthy citizen 
 of the United States so angry that, like the elder brother in 
 the parable of the prodigal son, he "would not go in," be- 
 cause he could not bear to see the "consul general dancing 
 attendance on Vanderbilt;" — another scene in the ceaseless 
 play of human ambition, the chief actors probably alike un- 
 conscious. 
 
 Among the remarkable things seen that afternoon w^as 
 a succession of portraits of the Sultans, from the conquest of 
 Constantinople down to the present time. The contrast 
 between the oriental dress and ferocious aspect of the con- 
 querors and the European attire and mild look of the more 
 recent, is suggestive. 
 
 Visiting the scene of their massacre, I inquired into the 
 history and examined the relics of the Janizaries. Beginning 
 as new troops, from which the name is derived, after irregular 
 
55S Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 service of thirty years, they were organized in 1362, and formed 
 the earliest standing army in Europe. 
 
 The southern Slavic kingdoms were conquered, and one 
 fifth of the captives, including all the able-bodied youth, were 
 converted to Islamism and trained as soldiers. Three 
 hundred years ago they were the best disciplined body 
 of soldiers in all Europe. Afterward they deteriorated, 
 for instead of being drawn from the Christian prisoners of 
 war, they were recruited from menials and idlers. They often 
 mutinied, and sometimes deposed Sultans or put them to 
 death, and robbed cities over which they were appointed as 
 guards. 
 
 An attempt to discipline them caused the abdication and 
 death of Selim, and on November 14, 1808, they committed 
 the most terrible outrages ever perpetrated in Europe. The 
 new Sultan was compelled to pardon them, but secretly 
 planned their destruction. He allured some of their officers 
 and many Mohammedan priests and dervishes to support his 
 views, and published a decree that from each regiment one 
 hundred and fifty Janizaries should be formed into a regular 
 militia. At this they revolted, and on June 14, 1826, were 
 guilty of frightful outrages. Then came the crisis expected 
 by Mahmood II, when he determined upon their destruction. 
 Troops were in readiness, the sacred standard of Mohammed 
 was displayed, and the best citizens supported the troops. 
 Artillery, already in position, was prepared for the con- 
 flict. The end was this: "Burned alive in their bar- 
 racks; cannonaded in the At Meidan (which we visited), 
 where they made their most desperate defense; massacred 
 singly in the streets during three months; the remainder 
 condemned to exile." More than twenty-five thousand were 
 slaughtered, since which time the Janizaries have ceased to 
 exist. The Mamelukes of Egypt were cavalry; the Janizaries 
 infantry. 
 
 The present Sultan is Abdul Hamid II. His brother, 
 Murad, was the legitimate successor, but being deposed because 
 of insanity, his uncle, Abdul Aziz, became the Sultan. He was 
 soon deposed and murdered, and is now popularly spoken of as 
 ''Abdul as 7C'as." 
 
Constantinople. 559 
 
 "Wherever I went among the Turks I listened and observed; 
 for they differ from any race with which I have been brought 
 in contact. 
 
 The term Mohammedan refers to religion; Turk to race. 
 The true name for Mohammedanism is Islam, a religion of 
 Semitic origin; the Turks are of a different descent. There 
 are not more than seven millions of Turks in the world, while 
 there are more than a hundred and fifty millions of Moham- 
 medans. " The Turks had their home in the steppes of 
 Central Asia, and are of the same race as the Tartars of the 
 Crimea, the Kisil-Bash of Armenia, the Kalmucks of the Cau- 
 casus, and the Turkomans of Khiva. " 
 
 The Turkish power originated in a band of Turkish slaves, 
 made the bodyguard of a Caliph of Bagdad. Soon they became 
 masters. A hundred years afterward they embraced Moham- 
 medanism. Their Sultan — which name really means ruler — 
 they called " Protector of the Father of the Faithful." In 1072 
 the Sultan, Alp Arslan, defeated the Byzantine Emperor, and 
 ruled all Asia Minor. I quote the most condensed statement 
 of their history: "To suppose that such an empire as that of 
 the Turks could have been founded and maintained by simple 
 force, under such strangely exceptional circumstances, is to- 
 contradict the plainest facts of human nature. They ruled 
 their empire with a moderation and wisdom long unknown in 
 western Asia, and they treated those of other creeds with a 
 clemency which contrasted favorably with the Christian 
 nations of Europe in that age." 
 
 Their recent history is known to students. At present those 
 of Turkish blood are a small minority in the Turkish empire. 
 A particular aspect is common to them; — dreamy, serious, 
 self-contained, grave; a countenance that does not promptly 
 respond, and kindles no enthusiasm. Ideal descriptions of 
 them have been given which would lead one to suppose that they 
 had no thirst for knowledge, desire for gain, or wish to travel; 
 no love, and no ambition. Yet he who sees them transacting 
 business will observe indications of interest, and one who 
 watches closely will find evidences of all the passions of human 
 nature. Indolence, consciousness of superiority, belief in 
 destiny, low views of women, and in the case of the more 
 
560 'iRAVliLS I.\ TUKKF. C(^N1INK.\TS. 
 
 bigoted continual duubt and suspicion of all other races, are 
 marked traits. 
 
 All that 1 could gather leads to the conclusion that the 
 name of Turk, like that of Jew, has more odium to carry than 
 it deserves. Hospitality is universal, their system of etiquette 
 elaborately designed to make guests comfortable, and a larger 
 proportion of them than of oriental Christians are true to 
 their religious views. Protestants in Turkev receive better 
 treatment than they would if Russia were in command of the 
 country. 
 
 The Turks are not without wit. One specimen which 1 
 heard was this: " Sliid a dervish to a camel: 'What makes 
 your lip so crooked?' to which the camel replied: 'What 
 is there straight about me that you should take exception to 
 my lip? '" 
 
 Another was a story of a man who called upon a Turk to 
 borrow his donkey. The owner declared that he w^as not at 
 home. While the conversation was progressing the donkey 
 from within brayed. Said the applicant: ''There, he is 
 here. Let me have him." Said the Turk: "I will lend 
 no man anything who will believe a donkey's voice against 
 mine." 
 
 The bronze Column of the Three Serpents, about fifteen 
 feet high, with the tails of the serpents downward and the 
 bodies twisted spirally as far as the necks, is a curiosity. 
 The heads of these serpents formerly spread outward, and 
 supported the golden tripod of the priest of Apollo at Delphi. 
 
 An obelisk of Egyptian granite, fifty feet high, stands in 
 the center of the hippodrome. Constantine was obliged to 
 leave the hippodrome unfinished on receiving information that 
 the Gauls threatened to attack Rome. 
 
 Another column, nearly one hundred feet in height, formed 
 of pieces of porphyry, joined together with copper rings, is 
 called the Burnt Column, on account of the blackness resulting 
 from fires to which the city has been exposed. Once it was 
 surmounted by a statue of Apollo, the work of Phidias. 
 
 Seven Towers, which stand at the southwest angle of Con- 
 stantinople, where the walls join the Sea of Marmora, remind 
 one of the Tower of London. The Janizaries used this as a 
 
CONSTAXTIXOPLF. 561 
 
 prison for the Sultans whom they had dethroned, or assas- 
 sinated them there. Xo less than seven Sultans have been 
 put to tleath in that way. In this phice, in old times, when- 
 ever men were thus killed, their heads were hung from the 
 battlements. 
 
 The city abounds in fountains, carved with representations 
 of vases filled with flowers and artistic arrangements of fruit. 
 Some are very large, culminating in a series of domes. In 
 the beautiful suburbs of Constantinople are the Sweet Waters 
 of Asia and the Sweet Waters of Europe: these are the parks 
 to which multitudes go. There are fine carriage roads, and to 
 the Sweet Waters of Asia the drive is six miles. 
 
 Slavery still exists, but the slave market described by trav- 
 elers of a few years ago is abolished. The natives of Georgia 
 and Circassia are still brought to Constantinople. These are 
 white slaves: I saw two supposed to have recently arrived. 
 The Circassian women who come to Constantinople from 
 homes of poverty and hardship, on their arrival are not attract- 
 ive in appearance; but after being subjected to a daily Turk- 
 ish bath, being protected from the sun, and having the benefit 
 of wholesome food, they become really beautiful in appearance. 
 Turkish wives are not kept in a state of slavery. Those who 
 have opportunity to know say that they have more liberty than 
 European women, being allowed to roam at will through the 
 bazaars and to drive in disguise through the streets. The wives 
 of men of rank are always accompanied by eunuchs, but others 
 are unattended; it was a surprise to me to see them going 
 about the streets with apparent freedom. 
 
 The guests of wealthy Turks are treated with hospital- 
 ity, and all the finery belonging to the women is displayed. 
 Ladies only can obtain admittance to the harems, and one 
 has written an account of what she saw. Speaking of the 
 clothes, she says: ''The visitor must express admiration, but 
 not astonishment; for in the latter case she would then be 
 classed as poor, having no fine clothes of her own, and 
 treated during the rest of her visit accordingly." This lady 
 also makes an observation which can be applied in other parts 
 of the world: " Though Turkish ladies will pass over any dis- 
 play of coarseness or rudeness, they are quite able to distin- 
 29 
 
5O2 I'ravels in Three Continents. 
 
 guish between any practice which arises from a difference of 
 manners and that which springs from a want of breeding in a 
 woman." 
 
 In the streets of Constantinople eunuchs are seen riding 
 with the wives of their owners, or leading children, and are dis- 
 tinguishable by their dress, height, beardless faces, and effem- 
 inate manners. They are usually very black. 
 
 Dogs run wild, not one in five hundred having an owner; 
 they have a perfect police system, being divided into districts, 
 and if any dog crosses the boundary line by the length of his 
 body all the dogs of that department try to kill him. 
 
 Having heard much of the censorship of the press, and hav- 
 ing had the opportunity of seeing its workings in Russia, I was 
 interested to ascertain to what supervision literary men are 
 obliged to submit under the present press regulations of Tur- 
 key. The editor of a paper in Constantinople must constantly 
 have on hand a certain amount of matter, to serve as harmless 
 padding, to fill the spaces left blank by the censor's pen. 
 Sometimes when the form is ready for the press, and no trouble 
 is anticipated, unexpectedly there arrives an official sheet from 
 the censor, without whose " imprimatur " nothing can be pub- 
 lished, and the luckless editor sees, it may be, from a column 
 to a whole page crossed out. One of the most frequent offend- 
 ers used to fill the spaces with stars and daggers, or other 
 printer's missiles, which when taken with the context would 
 suggest to a shrewd reader what had been omitted. A law 
 was then made that the spaces must be so filled as to give no 
 hint of what had been left out. 
 
 Not a great while ago an editorial acquaintance of our in- 
 formant found that the pen of disapprobation had been drawn 
 through a strictly scientific article upon the rainbow. In 
 utter bewilderment he sought an interview with the censor and 
 respectfully asked why this was condemned. He was told 
 that an article upon the rainbow could not be allowed to ap- 
 pear on account of a stringent order received at that office 
 to permit the publication of no article connected in any way 
 whatever with the subject of astronomy. 
 
 In a recently published series of Scripture biographies, the 
 statement that Ruth's connection with the family of Elimelech 
 
Constantinople. 563 
 
 became in the order of Providence the means of liberating her 
 from the heathen traditions of lier ancestors " was at once de- 
 tected and erased." 'I'he account of David playing the harp 
 before King Saul, and the outburst of passion indulged in by 
 the latter on that occasion, was also stricken out. niakinsf a 
 serious break in the narrative. 
 
 The most remarkable story that I heard in Constantinople 
 about the censorship of the press was this, which was vouched 
 for on convincing authority: A certain Christian banker or 
 stockbroker of Constantinople, who spent some years in 
 Paris, and understands French and has an unusual command of 
 the Turkish language, occupied his leisure hours in trans- 
 lating into Turkish a chapter from a French book giving 
 the experiences of a detective in working up noted criminal 
 cases. 
 
 He had a few copies printed for circulation among friends. 
 A few days after an officer appeared at the office of the author 
 with a copy of this publication and asked if he were the 
 writer. He admitted the fact, adding that he hoped he had 
 done nothing wTong. The officer asked if there were any 
 more of the story. The author replied, "Yes," that there 
 was plenty more of the same material. "Very well," re- 
 plied the officer, "I will call the day after to-morrow, and 
 you will have ready for me in manuscript sufficient to make 
 another pamphlet of the same size as this which you have 
 printed." The frightened author protested that the time was 
 too short, but the officer gave him a look which gave him 
 clearly to understand that refusal meant danger, and nam- 
 ing again the hour at which he would call for the work, took 
 leave. 
 
 The literary aspirant, bewildered and anxious, closed his 
 office, went home, and in thirty-six hours of almost continu- 
 ous labor accomplished the task assigned and returned to his 
 office. At the appointed hour the mysterious visitor re- 
 appeared and demanded the manuscript. With a trembling 
 hand it was passed over to him. He glanced at it a moment, 
 then saying, "Yes, that will do," took leave without offering 
 any explanation. 
 
 After two days he again appeared, and said: "See here. 
 
£j64 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 there is more of that story." The writer admitted that there 
 was more. "Very well," was the reply; "the day after to- 
 morrow, at the same hour as before, 1 will come again. Have 
 ready the same amount of manuscript;" and waiting for no 
 remonstrances the man was gone. Again the broker left 
 business and going home applied himself bravely to the task, 
 secretly regretting that he had ever seen the book from which 
 he was translating. The officer appeared at the appointed 
 time, and receiving the roll of manuscript went away without 
 remark. 
 
 After two or three days, as the broker was busy in his office, 
 another officer made his appearance, and after asking, "Are 
 you Mr. So-and-so?" said: " You are wanted; you will come 
 immediately with me." The broker turned pale, and began 
 to beg off; but the officer said: " You have nothing to fear, 
 but you must come immediately with me." The broker fol- 
 lowed the officer to the street corner, where they entered a 
 carriage which appeared to be waiting for them, and they 
 were driven to the palace, received with honor by the guards, 
 and shown through a side door to a private room. There the 
 broker was left alone for some minutes, when a high official 
 entered, bearing in his hand the two rolls of manuscript which 
 had been prepared under such pressing orders. 
 
 " Are these vour writings? " 
 
 " Yes, your excellency." 
 
 " How much more is there of that book? " 
 
 " It is a large volume, your excellency." 
 
 " Where is it?" 
 
 "At your servant's house, your excellency?" 
 
 "You will go along with mv officer to vour house and fetch 
 that book here to me." 
 
 The man accompanied by the officer went home, and in a 
 short time returned bearing the French work from which 
 the extracts had been made. He was asked to point out how 
 far he had translated. 
 
 "Very well," said the high official, in a quiet tone, "you 
 will begin there. In the next room you will find an abundance 
 of writmg material; also a French-Turkish Dictionary. You 
 will set to work immediately and complete the volume before 
 
Constantinople. 565 
 
 leaving the place. There are servants in attendance who have 
 orders to supply all your wants." 
 
 "And so," said my informant, "at the time I received the 
 information the lucky or unlucky fellow was still hard at work 
 upon his great literary undertaking. No restrictions were 
 placed upon his communications to his family, but no respite 
 from work was allowed. His business, of course, was suffer- 
 ing, but the possibilities of a brilliant literary career were 
 opening before him." 
 
 It is well known that in Turkey a hymnal for the use of 
 Protestants was expurgated, and among other things the 
 piece, "Hold the fort, for I am coming, " was stricken out. 
 On literary grounds few would be disposed to condemn the 
 censor for that, but the reason he assigned was that it is 
 adapted to stir up an insurrection. 
 
 The story of the Arabian Ni^^hts'' Eiitertaifwients, except in 
 its supernatural elements, has been paralleled over and over 
 again in the history of Constantinople. One of the Sultans 
 not so very long ago was in the habit of going about in dis- 
 guise like the famous Caliph Haroun-al-Raschid. On one occa- 
 sion, passing a place where a man was excavating a cesspool, 
 he heard him say to himself in a loud voice: "Persevere, my 
 soul, or I will plunge thee into deeper filth than this I " 
 
 A few hours afterward an officer approached the unfortunate 
 man, and said to him: "Come with me." Horror took 
 possession of the laborer, who, when found by the ofificer, was 
 dressed like a gentleman, and was taking his ease in a cafe. 
 He tried to ascertain w^hy he was wanted; for some went into 
 the secret place under the control of the government, and 
 never came out; but no satisfactory answer could be given. 
 After being detained for a long time in fear and suspense, he 
 was at last brought before a high official, and examined. 
 Finally, he was taken into the presence of the Sultan, who was 
 astonished to see the man, who had been covered with filth a 
 short time before, so well dressed and intelligent in appear- 
 ance. He said to him: "Are you the man whom I saw at 
 work in a cesspool? " 
 
 "I am." 
 
 " How is it that I find you dressed in this way? " 
 
566 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 "1 am well paid for my work, which is very filthy and dis- 
 agreeable, and afterward 1 cleanse myself and take mine 
 ease." 
 
 "But what did you mean when you said: 'Persevere, my 
 soul, or 1 will plunge thee into deeper filth than this?' " 
 
 The man trembled, knowing that at a word his head might 
 be smitten from his shoulders. 
 
 " Speak! " said the Sultan. He answered that a man often 
 says in anger what his heart will not acknowledge. 
 
 " But what dost thou mean? " 
 
 He hesitated, and the Sultan reiterated his command: 
 *' What dost thou mean? \\'hat deeper filth is there than that 
 in which thou dost work? " 
 
 He still hesitated. The Sultan assured him that no harm 
 should come to him, and the man then replied: 
 
 "My work is disagreeable, and I was almost tempted to 
 leave it when I thought, 'I am still free;' I am obliged to 
 flatter no one; if I give up this work I may be compelled to 
 take service under the government, to live by flattery and false- 
 hood, and so I said to my soul, ' Persevere, or I will plunge 
 thee into deeper filth than this.' " 
 
 The Sultan, according to the story, was so pleased with this 
 answer that he gave him a handsome present and allowed him 
 to go away unmolested. 
 
Flight to Paris and New York. 567 
 
 CHAPTER LXVII. 
 
 Flight through Eastern Roumelia, Bulgaria, Servia, Hun- 
 gary, and Vienna, to Paris and New York. 
 
 Adrianople — Philippopolis — Government of Eastern Roumelia — Convention 
 of Protestant Mission Workers — Sofia — Bulgarian Church — Picturesque Cos- 
 tumes — Buda-Pesth — The National Museum — Vienna — Emperor Franz 
 Josef — Paris Exposition. 
 
 Soon after leaving Constantinople we entered a charming 
 country of undulating ridges, already covered with the vege- 
 tation of early spring. Previous to the treaty of Berlin, East- 
 ern Roumelia was under the direct authority of the Sultan of 
 Turkey. Since that time it has been removed therefrom, and 
 is a tributary principality, enjoying the right of self-govern- 
 ment. It is formed of the old provinces of Slivno and Philip- 
 popolis, with part of that of Adrianople, and occupies the 
 upper basin of the Maritza River, which is navigable as far as 
 Philippopolis. The view as we rode along was wonderfully 
 beautiful. Villages and towns are far apart, and one might 
 easily have fancied himself traveling through a succession 
 of parks connected with some ancestral estate, his only per- 
 plexity that he saw no house or castle, and few persons. 
 Sheep and cattle were grazing, and we saw some fine horses. 
 
 Adrianople, one hundred and thirty-seven miles to the north- 
 west of Constantinople, was the first important city through 
 Avhich we passed; next to Constantinople its rank was the 
 highest in European Turkey. For nearly a hundred years, and 
 until they gained possession of Constantinople, the Turks 
 made it the seat of government. 
 
 Higher up, on both banks of the Maritza, is Philippopolis, 
 now the capital. This region was part of ancient Thrace, and 
 Philippopolis was founded by Philip, the father of Alexander 
 the Great. Since 1360 the Turks have held it. Immense 
 masses of granite surround and underlie the citv; at the base 
 
568 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 of these eminences the country is perfectly level, and the 
 ground so low that rice is cultivated there. The independent 
 existence of Eastern Roumelia, now a self-legislating province, 
 gives it much more interest to Western travelers than it 
 would have if still a province of Turkey. It sustains its own 
 army, makes its own laws, and has a Christian Governor Gen- 
 eral, appointed indeed by the Sultan, with the consent of the 
 European powers. Notwithstanding its independence, the 
 Turkish government retains the right of occupying certain 
 strategical positions for the defense of its empire. 
 
 I had the good fortune to be at Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, 
 during a convention of all the native workers in the Protestant 
 missions for the whole region under the control of the American 
 Board, and to meet Dr. Riggs, that venerable missionary whom 
 Dr. Long assisted in translating the Bible into the Bulgarian 
 tongue. The church, which would seat five or six hundred, 
 was crowded with an enthusiastic audience, who were addressed 
 by energetic, original, and thorough speakers, according to 
 the testimony of the missionaries of the American Board. 
 
 The Bulgarian Church is a very low form of Christianity. 
 The principles of the Gospel are concealed under a mask of 
 superstitions; no intelligible instruction is given; pomp, cere- 
 mony, priestcraft, support the religion, which exerts little in- 
 fluence over the daily lives of the people, and can afford little 
 or no comfort in their experiences of privation and toil. 
 
 Were it not for the palace, one or two elaborate hotels of 
 an Eastern style, and the foreign names on the signs, it would 
 be easy to mistake the place for an American prairie town 
 already endeavoring to put on the airs of a city. In traveling 
 through the country I was struck with its fertility, with the 
 number of rivers which flow to the Danube, and with the herds 
 of cattle and flocks of sheep. The general aspect, however, is 
 not one of prosperity, and a primitive scene was that of buf- 
 faloes drawing carts. Many of the Bulgarians are striking- 
 looking men. 
 
 After leaving Sofia we rode for hours in full view of the 
 Balkans, and we traversed Servia, which is about as large as 
 Switzerland, and lies between the western Balkan and the 
 lUyrian Mountains. For many a long year these brave 
 
CD 
 
 c 
 
Flight to Paris and New York. 571 
 
 mountaineers fought for the right of self-government, and 
 are worthy successors of the Servian monarchy which after 
 the fourteenth century fell before the Turks. In 1S29 it 
 gained the right of self-government, but was nominally sub- 
 ject to Constantinople until 1877, when its freedom was con- 
 firmed by the Treaty of Berlin. 
 
 Mountains, hills, and forests were interspersed with fields 
 surrounded by hedges and meadows. Hogs are the most 
 valuable product of the country. The landed nobles of 
 Servia are great pig-dealers, and it may be said of much of 
 the region, as it was of Cincinnati some years ago, that the 
 aristocrats are those whose fathers packed pork for a living, 
 and the democrats are those who pack it themselves. 
 
 The people so hate the Turks that their best wine is called 
 "Turks' Blood." A recent traveler says that whenever a 
 bottle of it is opened the first who tastes it affects surprise and 
 asks, "What is this?" A second, having tasted, replies, 
 solemnly, "Turks' Blood." Whereupon the first rejoins, 
 "Then let it flow freely." 
 
 The villages are straggling; fifty or sixty houses '' are 
 spread over a space as large as that occupied by Vienna." 
 AVe passed through the capital, Belgrade, situated at the union 
 of the Danube and the Save, in the midst of grand scenery. 
 The costumes of the men and women were picturesque. 
 Towle's description in his little book. The Principalities of the 
 Danube, is literally correct: " The men w^ear drab-colored short 
 jackets lined with red, and caps and sashes of red, and their 
 belts are provided with pistols and poniards. Their legs are 
 covered with big trousers to the knee, below which point they 
 fit close to the calves and ankles. " The women affect bright 
 colors; their dresses are trimmed with embroidery; wide 
 sashes are worn with long fringed ends, and on their heads are 
 red leather caps wrought in silver and gold lace; every woman 
 wears gold earrings. 
 
 Buda-Pesth, the capital of Hungary, is one of the handsomest 
 cities in Europe. It lies on both sides of the Danube; and has 
 a population of above four hundred thousand, being the second 
 in numbers in the Austrian empire. Buda is upon the Dan- 
 ube side of a range of hills, and above it is an imposing 
 
C-J2 '1'ka\ KLs IN Three Continents. 
 
 castle. Pesth is on the other side. The hills are covered 
 with vineyards wherein grow the grapes which make the 
 famous Tokay wine. The city is full of monuments and 
 abounds in churches; among its beautiful features are the 
 bridges which connect Buda with Pesth. (ireat use is made 
 of Turkish baths, and also of hot mineral baths, some of 
 which date from the time of the Romans. 
 
 There are numerous art galleries in the city, which already 
 considers itself a rival of Vienna, and in them I saw the finest 
 collection of the Spanish masters outside of Spain. 
 
 The National Museum contains many curiosities, among 
 them a piano made by Broadwood and given to Beethoven; 
 bv him it was some years afterward given to Liszt, and by him 
 to the museum. Striking a few chords I evoked .sounds of 
 peculiar sweetness, but of less depth and brilliancy of tone 
 than is expected from the instruments of famous makers of 
 the present day. 
 
 One of the curiosities is Luther's will, which has been de- 
 clared authentic by a committee of experts. 
 
 Another was a note signed by Louis Kossuth, the style of 
 which was imitated in the Confederate notes of a dozen years 
 later. 
 
 fioo. No. A. Hungarian Fund. 
 
 This will entitle the holder to One Hundred Dollars at the rate of four per 
 cent per annum from this dale, the principal payment in ten equal annual in- 
 stallments from the date of the establishment in fact of the Independent 
 Hungarian Government, and tlie interest thereon payable half-yearly from the 
 last above date and at the National Treasury of such Government, or at 
 either of its authorized agencies in London or New York. L. Kossuth. 
 
 Dated at New York, July i, 1S52. 
 
 In the very year and month of the date of that note, with a 
 crowd of other boys, I followed the Hungarian patriot about 
 the streets of an American city, not fully understanding his 
 aims, but perceiving, when he spoke, the peculiar pathos and 
 power which made him so famous. 
 
 I inquired of various officials in the museum and elsewhere 
 as to his standing with the Hungarian people. He was consid- 
 ered to be patriotic, courageous, disinterested, and eloquent, 
 but visionary, and in his old age peevish and incapable of adapt- 
 
Flight to Paris and New York. 573 
 
 ing himself to what has proved a satisfactorj' adjustment of the 
 two peoples which now constitute the great empire of Austria- 
 Hungary — two distinct kingdoms united under a common 
 ruler of the German House of Hapsburg, and maintaining a 
 common policy in military and diplomatic affairs. 
 
 From Buda-Pesth we went direct to Vienna, where I had 
 the pleasure of seeing the Emperor of Austria when he ap- 
 peared for the first time in public after the horrible suicide of 
 his son, the Archduke, to review the Austrian troops. For 
 three hours 1 saw the flower of the Austrian infantry and 
 cavalry perform its evolutions. 
 
 The Emperor Franz Josef, with his staff, passed within a few 
 feet, giving me the opportunity of looking upon his face. 
 The traces of anxiet}', disease, and sorrow were plainly visible. 
 When we look upon kings on state occasions, we do not have 
 a fair representation of their natural expression; for self-con- 
 sciousness and an artificial gravity rob the eyes and the other 
 features of their light and animation. Even American Presi- 
 dents and their wives, with the limited amount of display in 
 which they participate, show the effects of the situation, and 
 either a stolid aspect or a meaningless smile takes the place of 
 the changing lights and shadows which in ordinary social in- 
 tercourse are perpetually charming. 
 
 Having arranged to sail for Xew York on the tenth of Ma}', 
 on this occasion I made little stay in Vienna, but hastened to 
 Paris, arriving on the day of the opening of the Exposition, in 
 which we spent three days delightfully. 
 
 ^Vith my face once more turned toward home the voyage 
 seemed long, although La CJiaiiipagiie made a shorter trip than 
 usual at the season; and after so many months of wandering 
 I contentedly took my place once more with those who sing: 
 
 " Stay, stay at home, my heart, and rest; 
 Home-keeping hearts are hapjMest." 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Aaron, work of a grandson of, 439. 
 
 Abana River, 480. 
 
 Abbas, Dr., superintendent of the lunatic 
 asylum of Egypt, 216-218. 
 
 Abbas, Muley, lamentations of, 40. 
 
 Abdallah, a performing negro, 301. 
 
 Abd-el-Kader, courage of, 488 ; confinement 
 in Damascus, 491. 
 
 Abd-er-Rahman 1, builds mosque at Cordova, 
 39. 
 
 Abdul Aziz, vandalism of, 539 ; change of his 
 name. 558. 
 
 Abdul Hamid II, 558. 
 
 Abel, traditional scene of the murder of, 480. 
 
 Abinadab, the ark of the covenant in the 
 house of, 350. 
 
 Ablution, the fountain of, 543. 
 
 Abou-Gosch, tomb of. 3S0 ; village of, 350. 
 
 Abousir, a cemetery of Memphis, 247. 
 
 Abraham, our dragoman, 257, 266, 268, 278 ; 
 story of a crocodile, 270. 
 
 Abraham, an obelisk older than, 219 ; God's 
 covenant with, 241 ; the Koran s record 
 of, 323 ; supposed scene of his attempted 
 sacrifice of Isaac, 377, 390, 436; alleged 
 praying-spot of, 381 ; supposed scene of 
 sacrifices by, 381 ; at Bethel, 430 ; builds 
 an altar at Shechem, 435 ; well-digging 
 customs of, 435 ; scene of his encounter 
 with Melchizedek, 436 ; at Shechem, 438 ; 
 Damascus in the time of, 480 ; rescues Lot 
 from the kings, 489 ; scene of the revela- 
 tion to, of the unity of God, 490. 
 
 Absalom, tomb of, 362. 
 
 Abuna, election of an, 421. 
 
 Abundance, the horn of, 536. 
 
 Abyla, 81, log. 
 
 Abyssinia, source of the Blue Nile in, 238; 
 rainfall in, 239; trade with Asyoot, 263 ; 
 war with Italy, 421. 
 
 Abyssinian Church, at Jerusalem, 420 ; pe- 
 culiarities of, 420, 421. 
 
 Abyssinians, the civilization of the, 420 ; de- 
 clared a. barbarous people, 421. 
 
 Acacia-trees, in Egypt, 261, 266 ; source of 
 gum-arabic, 263. 
 
 Academy, the, Athens, 523. 
 
 Academy of Science, at Athens, 522. 
 
 Acoustics, of Spanish cathedrals, 35, 58. 
 
 Acre, 442 ; Lynch's expedition from, 406. 
 
 Acro-Corinth, 527, 52S. 
 
 Acropolis, of Athens, 51s. 516, 520, 521, 528; 
 of Corinth, 527, 528; of Smyrna, 505, 508. 
 
 " Acts," account of the Ascension in, 369 ; 
 record of St. Paul's travels, 498, 512, 513 ; 
 an authority on Ephesus, 510; record of 
 Paul's sermon, 521. 
 
 Ada Dodge .Memorial Hall, Beirut, 405. 
 
 Adam, chapel and tomb of, 394 ; tradition of 
 his restoration to life, 304. 
 
 Adam and Eve in the Garden, 169. 
 
 Adelaide, Queen, lays foundation of light- 
 house at Gibraltar, in. 
 
 Adirondacks, the, experiences in, compared 
 with Palestine, 432 ; head waters of the 
 Hudson in, 474. 
 
 .\doration. the scene of the, 399. 
 
 Adour, River, 9. 
 
 .Adrianople, 567. 
 
 Adriatic, the, capture of coast of, by Venice, 
 158; Queen of, 166 ; view of, from Campa- 
 nile, Venice, 166 ; a glimpse of, 205. 
 
 .'Egaleos, Mount, 524. 
 
 i^igean Sea, the. 499 ; scenery of, 503. 
 
 Angina, a distant view of, 515, 528 ; rival of 
 Corinth, 527. 
 
 ^neid, composition of the, 192. 
 
 ^schylus, the works of, 520. 
 
 .(Esop, figure of, 23. 
 
 /Etolia, distant view of. 528. 
 
 Africa, Spain the twin sister of, 10; Saracen 
 conquest of north, ,5 ; the bull-ring un- 
 known in, 77 ; first glimpses of, 81, 82 ; the 
 eye of, 100 ; relations of Gibraltar to, 104 ; 
 British area and population, 115 ; the Virgin 
 Mary in, 126; bearded priests in, 129; 
 fresco of, at Milan, 154 ; rainfall in Cen- 
 tral, 239 ; curious belief about birds in, 
 251 ; to Asia from, 338. 
 
 " Afrique." thesteamer, 119. 
 
 Age, of Egyptian women, 299, 300. 
 
 Agesilaus, king of Sparta, 509, 510. 
 
 Agility, feats of strength and, 236, 329. 
 
 Agora, the Great, 510. 
 
 Agriculture, in Morocco, 97 ; importance of, 
 146 ; effect of construction of Suez Canal 
 on, 337 ; taught in Palestine, 345. 
 
 Ague, in Cyprus, 498. 
 
 Ahab, the field wrested from Naboth by, 443. 
 
 Ahhotpou, Queen, jewelry of, 321, 
 
 Ahijah, residence of, 435. 
 
 Ai, the Jewish capture of, 430. 
 
 Ain-et-'l'in, 471. 
 
 Air, buying the, 557. 
 
 Ais-saoui, religious ceremonies of, 125. 
 
 Ajalon, the moon's stand in, 348, 349. 
 
 Akra, dividing line between Jerusalem and 
 Moriah and, 356. 
 
 Aksa, the Mosque E1-, 381, 
 
 Alabaster box of ointment, scene of the, 414, 
 
 Alaka, the office of, 421. 
 
 Alameda, the, 106, 107 ; fortifying, 115. 
 
 Albanians, in Smyrna, 506; costume of, 528, 
 529 ; at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Alcazar, the, at Toledo, 34,36; at Seville, 49. 
 
 Alcibiades, 509. 
 
 Alcohol, as a factor of insanity in Egypt, 
 217. See also Drunkenness; Intempek- 
 
 ANCE. 
 
 Alcott botanical collection, Beirut, 495. 
 
 Aleppo, captured by Saladin, 487. 
 
 Alexander, Dr., bishop of Jerusalem, 421. 
 
 .\le.\ander, patriarch of Alexandria, dispute 
 with .A rills, 207, 
 
 Alexander the Great, statue in Naples, i8g ; 
 how regarded in the Koran, 323 ; captures 
 Jerusalem, 355 ; importance of Beirut in 
 time of, 492; sword presented to, 4^8; 
 restoration of Smyrna by, 507 ; connection 
 with history of Ephesus, 509 ; visit to Di- 
 ogenes, 527; crossing of the Hellespont 
 532 ; the father of, 567. 
 
576 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Alexandria, 207-209 ; Napoleon's march on, 
 206; decline and growth of, 207 ; the mak- 
 ing of the Septuagiiit in, 207 ; position in 
 iiuellectnal growth and Chrislianiiy, 207; 
 removal of Cleopatra's Needles to and from, 
 208 ; siibtirlis of, 209 ; Sphinxes in, 248 ; 
 Eiitropins's journey to, 264 ; complexion of 
 fellaheen near, 287 ; Presbyterian mission 
 at, 332; rainfall in, 336; election of the 
 hierarch of the Abyssinian Church at, 421 ; 
 Apollos of, 512. 
 
 Allieri, tomb of, 170. 
 
 Alfonso VI, grant to the Moors, 35. 
 
 Alfonso VII 1, founder of convent of Las 
 Huelgas, 14. 
 
 Alfonso X, decree regarding the Spanish 
 language, 34. 
 
 Alfonso XI 1, sepulcher of, 34. 
 
 Algeciras, landing of Taric at, 55. 81 ; view 
 of, from Gibraltar, 112. 
 
 Algeria, iig-136; French conquest of. 128, 
 133 ; power of Jews in, 129. See also Al- 
 
 GlEKS. 
 
 Algerine pirates, 127 ; wealth of, 350. 
 
 Algiers, beauty of journey from Oran to. 120, 
 121; winter residences in, 121, 129, 130; 
 archbishop of, 126; blackmails the whole 
 civilized world. 127; the Dey of, 127, 128; 
 slavery abolished in, 128 ; bloodthirsliness 
 in, 129 ; likeness of houses to those in Pom- 
 peii. 197, iq8 ; flora, 346; mosques, 540. 
 
 Algum-trees, Solomon's purchase of, 342. 
 
 Alhambra, situation, history, and description, 
 50-57 ; compared with the Kremlin, 51 ; 
 woman's position in, 55 ; aspect of. 58 ; con- 
 trast in the, 539 ; resemblance to the Ser- 
 aglio, 539. 
 
 "Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. 440. 
 
 Aliweein line of descent from Mohammed, 
 98. 
 
 Allah, the magic name of. 326. 
 
 Allemand-Lavigerie, Cardinal C. M., indul- 
 gences granted by, 126. 
 
 Alligators, in Florida and Louisiana, 273. 
 
 Almond culture, 120. 
 
 Alp Arslan, rise of, 559. 
 
 Alphonso, sepulcher of, 14. 
 
 Alpine Club of France, 128. 
 
 Alps, the, view from Nice, 139 ; cold winds 
 from, 146 ; view of, from Milan cathe- 
 dral, 153; the Simplon route over, 157; 
 view of, from Campanile, Venice, 166 ; Lib- 
 yan Mountains compared with, 293 ; Blount 
 of Olives compared with, 366 ; prominence 
 of Mont Blanc among, 449. 
 
 Alva, Duke of. 9. 
 
 Amazons, paintings of, in Florence, 171. 
 
 Ambition, the play of human, 557. 
 
 Ambrose, St., painting of. 150; tomb of, 654, 
 
 Ameni-.^menemha, tomb of, 252. 
 
 Amenophis I, extends boundaries of Egypt, 
 276 ; builds temple at Karnak, 276 ; coffin 
 and mummy of, 320. 
 
 Amenophis III, invades the Soudan. 276; 
 growth of Thebes under, 276 ; statues of, 
 279, 294. 
 
 Amen-ra, statue and shrine of. 284. 
 
 Amer, tomb and mosque of, 214. 
 
 America, the mother of, 10; Columbus's dis- 
 covery, 45 ; antiquities, 45 ; discovery pre- 
 dicted in the Scriptures, 46 ; Spanish pos- 
 sessions, 110; fresco of, at Milan, 154; 
 greatness, 450. 
 
 American, privileges of an, 18. 
 
 -American Board of Foreign Missions, the 
 treasurer of, 11 ; schools at San Sebastian, 
 12 ; agent in Constantinople, 265 ; success 
 among Armenians, 549 ; iJr. Hamlin's rela- 
 tions with,- 554 ; convention of missions 
 under, at Sofia, 568. 
 
 American coats ol arms, 172. 
 
 -American College at Beirut, 343. . 
 
 .American colony, an eccentric, 425. 
 
 -American energy, evidences of, 557. 
 
 .American Mission, established in Syria, 495. 
 
 -Americans, bad example of, in Spain, 79, 80; 
 walking-powers, 111 ; in Smyrna, 506; at 
 Robert College, 554. 
 
 -Amerian school. Athens. 522. 
 
 .Amherst College, our fellow-travelerfrom,265. 
 
 "Among the Hills," 467. 
 
 -Amorites, the crnquest by Joshua, 348, 349 ; 
 Jacob's conquest of, 435. 
 
 -Amwas, supposed site of Emmaus. 349. 
 
 Ananias, his visit to Saul of Tarsus, 48S. 
 
 -Anchorites, in the Holy Land, 413, 
 
 Ancona, 202. 
 
 -Andalusia, the Tarshish of Scripture, 108. 
 
 Androsphinx, the. 232. 
 
 Angelo, Michael, statue at Milan, 154. 
 
 -Angel of I'eath, in Morocco, 99. 
 
 -Angel of Rome, the, 186. 
 
 Angel's Chapel, the, 393. 
 
 Angels, house-moving, 203, 454; Mohamme- 
 dan belief in, 323 ; the Bethel ladder of, 430. 
 
 Animal-life on the Dead Sea, 409. 
 
 -Animals, cruelly to. in Spain. 74-80 ; of Gi- 
 braltar, 108 ; wild, in Atlas Mountains, 133. 
 
 -Anklets, ancient Egyptian, 321. 
 
 -Anna, mother of the Viigin, 366. See also 
 St. Anne. 
 
 -Annunciation, the. Chapel and Church of, at 
 Nazareth. 454. 455. 
 
 Anointment, the Stone of, 390. 
 
 -Anthony, St., INIurillo's painting of, 46. 
 
 .Anti-Libanus range, the, 483. 
 
 Anti-matrimony colony in Jerusalem, 425. 
 
 Anti-medicine theory, in Jerusalem, 425. 
 
 Antiquarians, services of, 511. 
 
 -Antiquities, a judge of, 278; demand for. in 
 Egypt, 278 ; a collection of Egyptian, 300 ; 
 a United States consul's trade in, 300 ; fame 
 of Smyrna for, 509 ; the manufacture of, 
 516; in Athens. 522. 
 
 " Antiquity Smith." 278. 
 
 Antonio, Castle of, Jerusalem, 3S5. 
 
 Antony, Alark, 177. 
 
 Antony and Cleopatra, Samian residence cf, 
 503. See also Cleopatra. 
 
 Apelles, birthplace of, 500, 509 ; figure of, in 
 Florence cathedral, 170. 
 
 Apennines, the, view of, from Milan cathe- 
 dral, 153; situation of Florence near, i63. 
 
 Apes, of the -Atlas Mountains, 134 ; Kaby- 
 lean theory regarding, 134. 
 
 -Apis Mausoleum, discovery of the. 232. 
 
 -Apollo, myth concerning the formation of 
 Rhodes by, 500 ; alleged birthplace of, 500 ; 
 worship of, in Corinth. 52S ; statue at Con- 
 stantinople, 560; tripod of the priest of, at 
 Delphi, 560. 
 
 -Apollos, at Ephesus, 512. , 
 
 -Apostles' Cavern, the, 361. 
 
 -Apparition, Chapel of the, 394. 
 
 .Appian Way, the, iSi. 
 
 Apples, -American. 107 ; at Jaffa, 344. 
 
 -Apricots, at Jaffa, 344, 
 
 Aquarium, the Naples, 190, 
 
Index. 
 
 577 
 
 Aqueducts, at Cairo, 214 ; ancient, 'n Jerusa- 
 lem, 362 ; at Athens, 516. 
 
 Aquila, at Ephesus, 512. 
 
 Arabia, commerce of, through Alexandria, 
 207 ; trade with Asyoot, 263 ; horses of, 
 
 483; 
 
 Arabian desert, the, 23S, 302. 
 
 Arabian Empire, Western Caliphate of, 39. 
 
 Arabian Mountains, 275, 276, 287, 294. 
 
 Arabian Nights' Entertainments, 440, 565, 
 566. 
 
 Arabic Antiquities, Museum of, Cairo, 216. 
 
 Arabic language, use among the Copts, 332. 
 
 Arabs, conquest of Cordova, 39 ; flight from 
 Seville, 4:;; characteristics, 92; how they 
 make coffee, 92; destroy iron-mines at 
 Nemours, 119; of Algeria, 120; importance 
 of the beard among, 129 ; of Numidia, 133 ; 
 hostility to Kabyles, 13^ ; costume, 212 ; 
 appreciation of manuscripts, 216; use of 
 hasheesh. 218 ; mercenary character, 222 ; 
 Connecticut Yankee versus, 278 ; compared 
 with Nubians, 312 ; conquest of Egypt. 330 ; 
 compared with Copts, 331, 332 ; claim the 
 site of the house of Simon the tanner, 343 ; 
 statements concerning the Tower of Ram- 
 leh, 347 ; capture of Jerusalem. 355 ; ma- 
 rauding, in the plain of Esdraelon, 442 ; 
 opinion of Damascus, 483; outrages in 
 Damascus, 488 ; attack Constantmople, 
 
 536- , . , 
 
 Aragon. spread of kingdom of, 55. 
 
 Aral Sea, relative saltness of the, 409. 
 
 Ararat, Mount, 549. 
 
 Arcadia, 205. 
 
 Arcadian mountains, the, 528. 
 
 Archaeological Society, Museum of, at 
 Athens, 522. 
 
 Archaeologists, 249, 51T. 
 
 Architect, fate of a Christian, 122. 
 
 Architects, skill of Egyptian, 288. 
 
 Architecture, characteristics of Moorish, 51 ; 
 a confusion of, 162; influence of Florence 
 on, 167; effect of climate on. 190; Italy's 
 eminence in, 202 ; Mohammedan, 213 ; the 
 most ancient monument of Christian, 399 ; 
 renown of Ephesus for. 509; fJoric, 520; 
 Ionic, 520 ; of ancient Greece and Rome, 
 530; of Constantinople. 537; reasons for 
 the peculiarity of Egyptian, 53S ; a mar- 
 velous achievement of, 543 ; a beautiful 
 specimen of mosque, 550. 
 
 '"Architecture." quoted, 543. 
 
 Arch of Hadrian, 519. 
 
 Arch of Pilate, the, 385. 
 
 Arcon. J. C. E. le M. d', inventor of floating 
 batteries at Gibraltar, no. 
 
 Arctic Circle, beyond the, 314, 350. 
 
 Arctic Ocean, the, 113. 
 
 Areopagus, 521, 522. 
 
 Aretas, 48S. 
 
 Argolis, the mountains of, 528. 
 
 Argos, plain of, 528. 
 
 Arimathea, legend regarding Joseph of, 
 supposed site of, 347. 
 
 Arislides, the city of, 523. 
 
 Aristocracy of nobles and beggars, 10 
 beggars, 43 ; what constitutes an, 571. 
 
 Aristophanes, the works of, 520. 
 
 Aristotle, geographical knowledge of, 
 figure of, in Florence cathedral, 170 ; 
 city of, 523. 
 
 Arius, dispute with Alexander, 207. 
 
 Ark of bulrushes, the, 241. 
 
 144; 
 
 of 
 
 45 ; 
 
 the 
 
 Ark of the Covenant, the Philistines' return 
 of the, 330 ; supposed burial-place, 381 ; 
 site of the tent ot, 417 ; dwelling-place at 
 Shiloh, 434 ; stolen Ijy Philistines, 435. 
 
 Arlanzon, River, 13. 
 
 Armageddon, the valley of, 442. 
 
 Armenia. Saracen conquest of, 55 ; the Kisil- 
 Bash of, 559. 
 
 Armenian chapel at the Holy Sepulcher, 390. 
 
 Armenian Church, miracles in, 8 ; worship 
 in the Angel's Chapel, 394 ; worship in tlie 
 Chapel ol the Sepulcher, 394; convent at 
 Beihlehem. 398 ; patriarchs, 417, 419 ; mon- 
 astery in Jerusalem, 419, 420; services, 420; 
 ritual of the, 549 ; qiialihcations of priests, 
 549, 550; jealousy of Protestaniism, 555. 
 
 Armenians, in Smyrna, 506, 507 ; commercial 
 shrewdness of, 529, 549 ; in Constantinople, 
 547, 549 ; success of American Board 
 among, 549 ; at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Arno River, 168. 275. 
 
 Arnott, Miss, mission work at Jaffa, 343, 344. 
 
 Arrows, poisoned. 305. 
 
 Art, the foundation of, 146; in Milan, 149; in 
 Florence, 167 ; intoxicated with, 171 ; facil- 
 ities for study in Florence, 173 ; in the 
 Catacombs, 181, 182 ; position of Naples 
 in, 187, 191 ; Italian love for, 200; rise and 
 decay of Egj'ptian, 322 ; in Greece, 531 ; 
 collection of Spanish masters, 572. 
 
 Art-criiicism, difficulties of, 45. 
 
 Artemisia, 509. 
 
 Art-galleries, in Buda-Pesth, 572. 
 
 Art of putting things, the. 208. 
 
 Ascension, supposed site of the. 369 ; Church 
 of the, 369. 
 
 Ascension Day, observance at Venice, 158. 
 
 Ase'nath. wife of Joseph. 219. 
 
 Ashdod, view of, from the Tower of Ramieh, 
 3,47- 
 
 Ashkenazim. the sect of the, 465. 
 
 Ashraf, the class, 94. 
 
 Asia. Spain the offspring of, 10 ; rise of Mo- 
 hammedan power in, 55 ; British area and 
 population, 115; fresco of, at Milan, 151; 
 campaigns of Sethi I in western, 280; the 
 glory of Egjpt in, 319 ; from Africa to, 
 338; the most wearisome day's journey in, 
 479 ; a temporarj' farewell to the mainland 
 of. 497 ; farewell to. 515 ; castle of, 532; 
 boundary between Europe and, 535; origin 
 of the Turks in. 559 ; the Sweet Waters of, 
 
 Asia Minor, Saracen ravages in, 55 ; a famous 
 city of, tOi ; descendants of ancient inhab- 
 itants of. 506; the most important city of, 
 509 ; power of Alp Arslan in, 559. 
 
 Asioot, Asiut. See Asyoot. 
 
 Askalon, view of. from Tower of Ramieh, 
 
 347- 
 
 Ass, a wonderful. 202. 
 
 " Assassin," origin of the word, 218. 
 
 Assouan, statue of Rameses II brought to 
 the Rameseum from, 287 ; the hewing of 
 obelisks at, 302 ; approach to, 304 ; Biblical 
 mention of. 304 ; population, trade, etc.. 304, 
 305 ; English garrison, 305 ; traces of Chris- 
 tian convents at, 305 ; beautiful palm- 
 tree, 3x3, 314 ; Presbyterian mission, 332. 
 
 Assyrians, at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Astronomy, in Egypt, 207, 240 ; how viewed 
 in Turkey, 562. 
 
 Asturias. kingdom of, 55. 
 
 Asylum of the Muses and Graces, 507. 
 
578 
 
 Travels in Three Continexts. 
 
 Asyoot, 259-265; the pottery of, 263; revisited, 
 318 ; Picsbyterian mission, 332 ; Protestant 
 school, 333. 
 Aialye, 9. 
 Athaiiasius. St.. painting of, 188 ; life and 
 
 death at Alexandria, 207. 
 Atheism, in Constantinople, 555. 
 Athenians, the place of meeting of the, 522; 
 
 strife fur Byzantium, 536. 
 Athens, the Pyramids older than, 228 ; 
 residence of iJr. Schliemann at, 334 ; dif- 
 ference between Jerusalem and, 355; posses- 
 sion of Samos by, 503 ; population con- 
 trasted with that of Smyrna, 506 ; Ephesus 
 compared with, 509; voyage to, 515; rail- 
 way from the Piraius to, 515 ; first view of, 
 515, 516; growth, 516; hotels, 516; the 
 seal of government at, 516 ; the modern 
 city, 516; population, 516; mission at, 519; 
 religious services at, 519 ; two cities of, 519 ; 
 expulsion of Paul from, 521 ; Paul in, 521, 
 522 ; public institutions, 522 ; route to 
 Corinth from, 524; distant view of, 528 ; con- 
 tributions to Santa Sophia, 540. 
 
 Athletes, suflTerings of, on the Nile, 335. 
 
 Athos, Mount, 531, 532. 
 
 Atlas Mountains, independent tribes of, 94, 
 97 ; situation, scenery, etc.. 120, 130-136 ; 
 compared with those of Switzerland, 134 ; 
 wild animals in, 135. 
 
 At-Meidan, the scene of the massacre of the 
 Janizaries, 558, 
 
 Atmosphere, preservative action of a dry, 231, 
 
 Attar of roses, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Attica, 524. 
 
 Attic Peninsula, a distant view of the, 528. 
 
 Attic Plain, the, 515, 524. 
 
 Auctioneers, in Cairo. 211. 
 
 Augustus, the Magnificent, 177 ; statue of. 
 177 ; liking for Naples, 187 ; Vesuvius in 
 the time of, 195 ; his name in the Temple of 
 Denderah, 269 ; contribution to the Temple 
 of Isis, 309 ; temple of. at Banias, 475 ; 
 connection with history of Ephesus, 509 ; 
 restoration of the Temple of Diana, 511. 
 
 Australasia, British area and population, 115. 
 
 Australia, leprosy in, 426. 
 
 Austria, claim on throne of Spain, no; Em- 
 peror of, in Cairo, 215; interest in Suez 
 Canal, 336 ; the Emperor in Vienna, 573. 
 
 Austria-Hungary, constitution of. 573. 
 
 Austrians, at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Autos-da-fe, the, 20; painting of an, 23. 
 
 Autographs, a large collection of, 300. 
 
 Aventine Hill, 177. 
 
 Avenue of Sphinxes, 279, 280, 319. 
 
 Avon, Rogers on the, 503. 
 
 Ayasoolook, 509. 
 
 Azov, Sea of. relative freshness of. 409. 
 
 Baal, the worship of, 474. 
 
 Baalbec, 492 ; contributions to Santa Sophia, 
 
 540. 
 Baal-Gad, 474. 
 Baal-Hermon, 474. 
 Babe, the village of the, 548. 
 Babel, a modern, 504, 506, 547. 
 Babel Moolook, 288-292. 
 Bab-el-Oued, 128. 
 Babi Humaioom, the, 540. 
 Bab-kisan, 488. 
 Bacchus, ancient temple of, at Milan, 1^4 ; 
 
 paintings of, in Florence, 171 ; the theater 
 
 of, 520. 
 
 Backbiting, in Jerusalem, 422. 
 " Backsheesh ! ' 222, 227, 236, 237, 256, 257. 
 Baedeker's guide-books, 324 ; on the Bible as 
 a history of Palestine, 341 ; on Mohamme- 
 dan fatalism, 484. 
 Bagdad, splendors of, 39, 55 ; Indian com- 
 merce through, 158 ; rise of Turkish pc wer 
 in, 559. 
 Bagdadites, Riwak of the, 325. 
 Bainbridge, Captain, action in Algiers. 128. 
 Baldness, sedentary habits and, 165. 
 Balkan mountains, the, 568. 
 Palm of Gilead, presented by Queen of Sheha 
 
 to Solomon, 219. 
 Baltic Sea, General Grant on the, 236 ; rela- 
 tive freshness of, 409. 
 Bancroft, iJr. C. i . P., joins the party at 
 Naples, 205; our fellow-traveler, 318, 334 ; 
 his horse, 395 ; washes his feet in the Dead 
 Sea, 409 ; visits tie Patriarch of Jerusalem, 
 419; visits Abyssinian monastery at Jetu- 
 salem, 420; on the march, 429 ; discussion 
 with, concerning age of Arab youth, 444, 
 445 ; a valuable neighbor, 516 ; holds ser- 
 vice on !Mars' Hill, 521, 
 Banias. road from Ain-et-Tin to, 471 ; ruins 
 at, 473 ; ruins of temple of Pan near, 473; 
 antiquity, 473 ; camp at, 473 ; vicissitudes 
 of, 474 ; Titus's celebration of his victories 
 at, 474; Joshua's connection with the region, 
 474 ; importance during the Crusades, 474 ; 
 Biblical references to, 475 ; supposed scene 
 of the Transfiguration, 475, 476 ; Josephus's 
 work at, 476 ; in time of Joshua, 476, 
 Baptists, in Italy, 204. 
 Barabras, in Assouan, 305. 
 Barada River, the, 491. 
 
 Barak, the plain of Esdraelon in the time of, 
 442; scene of battle with Sisera. 445. 446, 449. 
 Barbary, the beef-supply of Gibrallai, 107. 
 Barbary apes, 108. 
 
 Barbers, in Egypt. 210 ; of Damascus, 484. 
 Barca, the, of Venice, 161. 
 Barcelona, theater in, 74 ; bull-ring, 74. 
 Barclay, Bishop, discovers Jacob's \\'ell, 435. 
 Barnabas, in Cyprus, 498. 
 Bartholomew, St.. statue of, 150. 
 Bartolommeo, Fra. portrait of Savonarola, 170. 
 Baseball at the Pyramids, 228. 
 Bashan, oaks of, 449. 
 Basque Provinces. 10. 
 Basques, originate the bayonet, 9 ; the ancient 
 
 race of, 12 ; a game of the, 12. 
 Bas-reliefs, at Karnak, 280. 
 Bassano, paintings at Madrid, 23. 
 Baths, at Pompeii, 198 ; hot, at Tiberias, 461 ; 
 
 in Buda-Pesth, 572. 
 Battering-rams, used against Stamboul, 539. 
 Baudin, Alphonse, shooting of, 2, 138. 
 Bavar, Rodrigo Ruy Diaz de, 14, 
 Bayonet, origin of the, 9. 
 Bayonne, 9. 
 Bazaars, of Asyoot, 263 ; of Constantinople, 
 
 561 ; of Damascus, 483 ; at Keneh, 266. 
 Bazaine, Marshal, surrender, imprisonment, 
 
 and escape of, 139. 
 Beads, use of, in Greece, 520, 530. 
 Bear Camp River, the Jordan likened to, 467. 
 Beard, importance among Arabs, 129. 
 Bears, scene of the tearing of children by, 430. 
 Beatitudes, the Mount of, 461. 
 Beautiful Gate of the Temple, the, 374. 
 Beauty, an ancient mold of, 23s ; the 
 Egyptian Goddess of, 267. 
 
Index. 
 
 579 
 
 Bebek, village of, 554. 
 
 Bedouin, a venerable, 400. 
 
 Bedouin escorts, necessity of employing, 400. 
 
 Bedouins, of Numidia, 133 ; at Cairo, 222 ; at 
 the Pyramids, 225, 227, 236 ; fame of Mark 
 Twain among, 236, 237 ; expulsion from the 
 plain of Esdraelon, 442; acamp of, 443 ; ma- 
 rauding tribes on the Sea of Galilee, 468; ag- 
 ricultural, 471; a tribe of the better sort, 472. 
 
 Bee-culture at Sulem, 443, 444. 
 
 Beeroth, 430. 
 
 Beethoven, an old piano of, 572. 
 
 Beetle, the, in Egypt, 322. 
 
 Beetles, sacred, 278. 
 
 Beggars, at Lourdes, 7 ; an aristocracy of, 10, 
 43; in Spain, 33, 43, 44, 61, 62, 65,67-69, 
 71; politeness of, 67; in Morocco, go; in 
 Egypt, 211, 222, 251, 256, 257, 282, 283, 434 ; 
 in Jerusalem, 418, 426; at Sinjil, 434; in 
 Naz.ireth, 457 ; in Cajja, 458. 
 
 Beirut, the harbor of, 341 ; American College 
 at, 343; the Protestant College of, 466; 
 journey from Damascus to, 401,492; his- 
 tory and missions, 492-496 ; dialects at, 554. 
 
 Belgrade, 571. 
 
 Belzoni, on the ruins of Thebes, 275. 
 
 Belzoni's tomb, 291. 
 
 Benhadad, attempts to capture Elisha at 
 Dothan, 441 ; subdues the Danites, 472. 
 
 Beni-Hassan, a tribe of thieves, 97. 
 
 Beni-Hassan, tombs of, 252-255 ; the evil vil- 
 lage of, 256. 
 
 Benjamin, the city of, 350; boundary line 
 between Judah and, 361 ; supposed kication 
 of Rachel's tomb in the borders of, 397 ; 
 partial annihilation of the tribe, 429. 
 
 Berbers, in Tangier, 89; in Numidia, 133. 
 
 Berea, Paul's journey to Athens from, 521. 
 
 Bergamo, conquered by Venice, 158. 
 
 Berlin, the Treaty of, 567. 
 
 Bern, scenery of, 8. 
 
 Bernadotte, birthplace of, 8. 
 
 Bernardino, and the playing-card maker, 172. 
 
 Bernese Oberland, the. 8. 
 
 Bestiality, Pompeii and American cities com- 
 pared, 198. 
 
 Bethany, distance from the Mount of Olives, 
 369; the Ascension from, 369; road from 
 Jerusalem to, 374; traditional scene of the 
 parable of the Good Samaritan, 414; house 
 of Simon the Leper at, 414. 
 
 Betharram, miracles at, 7. 
 
 Bethel, former cai)ital of the Jews, 355 ; 
 Rachel's journey to Bethlehem from, 397 ; 
 the village, 430. 
 
 Bethlehem, the music of, 63,64; road from 
 Jerusalem to, 396; compared with Jerusa- 
 lem, 397; situation, 397; manufactures, 
 397 ; Rachel's journey from Bethel to, 397 ; 
 Samuel's mission to, 397, 398 ; scene of the 
 Nativity, 398 ; Constantine erects a church 
 at, 398 ; the pilgrimage of St. Jerome to, 
 399 ; life, works, and death of Paula in, 
 399 ; farewell view of, 400, 429 ; visit of 
 Joseph and Mary to, 452 ; devotion of pil- 
 
 ■ grims to, 452. 
 
 Bethsaida, sue of, 468. 
 Bethsaidas, the two, 467. 
 
 Betin, 430. 
 Biarritz, g. 
 
 Bible, the, discovery of America predicted in, 
 46 ; mention of Assouan in, 304 ; descrip- 
 tion of Hebrew women's costume. 320, 321 ; 
 revered among the Copts, 331 ; Baedeker's 
 
 30 
 
 opinion of it. as a historj' of Palestine, 341 ; 
 on the situation of Jerusalem, 352 ; describes 
 the captures of Jerusalem, 355; modern 
 Jerusalem not the city of, 356 ; St. Jerome's 
 translation of, 399 ; vividness and sunplicity 
 of its narrative of the Witch of F.ndor, 446 ; 
 its qualities, 457 ; its graphic descriptions, 
 471 ; Dr. Van Dyke's Arabic translation, 
 495; a romantic statement from, 498; trans- 
 lated into Bulgarian, 568. See also New 
 Tesiament; Old Testament. 
 
 Bible House in Constantinople, 265, 550, 557. 
 
 Biblioteca Colombina, 45, 46. 
 
 liidassoa. River, 10. 
 
 Bigotry, of Jews of Tiberias, 466; Turkish, 560. 
 
 ISird, jMoiniiain of the, 251. 
 
 Birds, curious belief on the Nile alxml, 251 ; 
 taming of, at Mar Saba, 404; in the Dead 
 Sea region, 409. 
 
 Iliscay, Bay of, the, g, 11; perils of, 12; 
 abandonment of the "Cleopatra" in, 208. 
 
 Bisharees, in Assouan, 305. 
 
 Bishops, sale of photographs of, 439. 
 
 Bitter Lakes, the, 337. 
 
 Black Sea, the, linked to Sea of Marmora, 
 535 ; f'P 'O1 548 ; dangers at its junction 
 with the Bosporus, 548 : glimpses of, 556. 
 
 " Blackwood's Magazine, ' quoted, 97. 
 
 Blessing, the Mount of, 436. 
 
 Blessings, how obtained at Lourdes, 7. 
 
 Blidah, 130. 
 
 Blind, the Chapel of the, Cairo, 326; Christ 
 healing the, 361. 
 
 Blindness, prevalence in southern Spain. 62 ; 
 in Morocco, 90 ; influence on facial expres- 
 sion, 189 ; in Egypt. 264, 265 ; leprous, 426. 
 
 P.liss, Dr. Daniel, 492. 557. 
 
 Bliss, Dr. Isaac G., life and death of, 265. 
 
 Blizzard, in Palestine, 429. 
 
 Blizzard of sand, a, 335. 
 
 I'londin. .a rival of, 236. 
 
 Blood, the Field of, supposed site of, 361. 
 
 Bloody Village, the, 548. 
 
 Blue Nile, 238. 
 
 Blythe, Dr., bishop of Jerusalem, 421. 
 
 Boat, a golden, 321. 
 
 Boccaccio, influence on the Italian language, 
 167 ; scenes of the Decameron, 171 ; the 
 tales of, 191. 
 
 Bosotia, distant view of. 528. 
 
 Bombay, saving in distance from various 
 ports to, via Suez Canal, 338. 
 
 P.on, Cape, 120. 
 
 Bonaparte, Napoleon. See N.^poleon I. 
 
 Bones, fantastic exhibition of human, 82 '. 
 peddling, 182. 
 
 Bonnets, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Bon-Zarea, Mount. 126. 128. 
 
 Boolak Museum, the, 319-^22. 
 
 Booth, John Wilkes, favorite lines of, 5x2. 
 
 Bordeaux, arrival at. 2 ; its wines, 2 ; Frank- 
 lin in, 2 ; shipping in, 3. 
 
 Borromeo, San Carlo, relics of, 150. 
 
 Bosporus, the, 535, 536, 539. 554 ; formation 
 of, 547 ; steamers on. 547 ; dangers at its 
 junction with the Black Sea. 548 ; nomen- 
 clature of the villages on, 548 ; Byron on, 
 548 ; a splendid prospect of. 556. 
 
 Botany, Alott collection at Beirut, 495. 
 
 Bottles, manufacture of porous, 266. 
 
 Boulanger, General, 2. 
 
 Boulogne, I. 
 
 Boundary-stones, in Palestine, 345. 
 
 Bow, the Oriental, 243, 326. 
 
5So 
 
 Tkavkls in Three Continents. 
 
 Bracelets, ancient F.g^'ptian, 321. 
 
 I'.rambles, at Sliechem, 436. 
 
 IJrasswork, Arab, 216. 
 
 r.read, who kneads the best, 25S. 
 
 P.reacl-n\aking, in Egypt, 21)2. 
 
 I'.rescia, cuniiiiured by Venice, 158. 
 
 Liribcry, in Spain, 69, 70; in Morocco, 98; of 
 Turti>h guards, 474. 
 
 Bridge of Sighs, the, 165. ^ 
 
 '■ Bright-faced lady. Our," 343. 
 
 I'irindisi, 205. 
 
 British Channel, i. 
 
 British Museum, the, a neible institution, 2og ; 
 fragments of the Sphinx in, 232 ; sarcophagi 
 in, 236; statue of Ranicses II presented to, 
 244 ; mummies of jackals in, 263 ; collec- 
 tion of historical papyri in, 3:9; a treasure 
 in store for, 440 ; the Elgin Marbles in, 521. 
 
 Broadwood, a famous piano by, 572. 
 
 Bronzes, ancient Egyptian, 321. 
 
 Brougham, Lord, liking for Cannes, 138, 139. 
 
 Bruce's tomb, 292. 
 
 Brugsch Bey, on the antiquity of Thebes, 
 276 ; chronology of Menes, 322. 
 
 Brunelleschi, Philip, architect of Florence 
 cathedral, 169; monument, 169 ; work, 170. 
 
 Brutus, Marcus Junius, 177 ; statije of, in 
 Naples, 189. 
 
 Buckle, Henry, death and burial, and monu- 
 ment to, in Damascus, 481. 
 
 Buckley, Rev. J. M., preaches on Mars' Hill, 
 
 521- 
 Buda-Pesth, 571-573 : P"puIation, 571 ; the 
 
 National ^luseum at, 572. 
 Buffaloes, use of, in Egypt, 250, 274 ; at Lake 
 
 Huleh, 472 ; in Bulgaria, 568. 
 Buffalo milk, 250. 
 Bulgaria, the capital of, 56S ; superstition in, 
 
 568. 
 Bulgarian, the Bible translated into, 568. 
 Bulgarian Church, the, 568. 
 Bulgarians, in Constantinople, 538, 547; at 
 
 Robert College, 5S4 ; ajipearance, 568. 
 Bull, fights with an elephant, a lion, and a 
 
 tiger, 78. 
 Bullfights, Charles I at, 20 ; in Spain, 74-80 ; 
 
 attitude of the Church toward, 80. 
 Bullfighters, a paradise of, 43. 
 Bull-ring, at San Sebastian, 11. 
 Bulls, Tomb of the, 319. 
 Bulrushes, the ark of, 241. 
 BuKver.' E. G., fondness for Naples, 187. 
 Burckhardt, J. L., on the bust of Homer in 
 
 the National Museum, Naples, 189. 
 Burgos, the road to, 13; antiquity of, 13; 
 
 cathedral, 15-18; castle, 18; climate, 43. 
 Burke, Edmund, on Gibraltar, 114, 115. 
 Burning bush, INIoses at the, 331. 
 Burnt Column, the, 560. 
 Byron, Lord, on Seville, 49 ; on the Bridge 
 
 of Sighs, 165 ; quoted, 462 ; scene of his feat 
 
 on the Hellespont, 532; on the view from 
 
 the Giant's Mountain, 548. 
 Byzantine art, a marvelous creation of, 543. 
 Byzantine Empire, division of the, 158. 
 Byzantines, occupation of Naples, 191. 
 Byzantium, the ancient port of, 535 ; strife 
 
 for, 536 ; besieged by Philip of Macedon, 
 
 536 ; a rival of, 537. 
 
 •' Caballero," use of the title, 68. 
 Cabanerro, Spanish artist, 62, 63. 
 Cabrita Point, iir. 
 Cactus hedges, in Palestine, 345, 347, 453. 
 
 C.-elian Hill, 177. 
 
 Caesar, Julius, conquest of Seville, 43 ; paint- 
 ings (jf, in Florence, 171 ; assassination of, 
 177; alterations in the I'onun, 181 ; father 
 of C;csarion, 269; a dclayeil project of the 
 time of, 524 ; re-establishes Corinth, 527. 
 
 C;esarea, 345 ; Paul's journey to Jerusalem 
 frc.m, 498. 
 
 Casarea Philippi, foundation of, 473 ; inci- 
 dents in the life of Christ at, 475, 476; 
 height of Hermon above, 47^1 ; claim of, 
 as scene of the Transfiguration, 476. 
 
 Ca;sarion, son of Clco])alra, 269. 
 
 Caiaphas, the palace of, 417. 
 
 Cain, scene of the murder of Abel by, 480. 
 
 Cairo, 209-219, 221, 222, 229 ; splendors of, 39; 
 proposed railroad to Suez from, 209; beg- 
 gars in, 211 ; the citadel, 212, 222 ; mosques, 
 213; extraordinary union of races and 
 se ts in, 214; miraculous transportation of 
 column from Mecca to, 214; road to the 
 Pyramids from, 221 ; Egyptological collec- 
 tions, 229; discovery of Sphinxes at, 248; 
 trade with Asyoot, 263; residence of the 
 U. S. Consul-General, 299; return to, 318; 
 the chief physician in, 318; preparations 
 for an indefinite stay in. 318; studies in, 
 319 et seq. ; University of, .-^25, 326; hovel- 
 ing dervishes, 326-330; Presbyterian mis- 
 sion, 332; social intercourse, 334 ;_ famous 
 Americans in, 335 ; a sandstorm in, 335 ; 
 departure from, 335 ; Ferdinand de Lesseps 
 French consid at, 336 ; rainfall in, 336; lik- 
 ened to Damascus, 483 ; Mr. McFadden's 
 sickness in, 492 ; u^e of donkeys in, 505. 
 
 Calcedonia, 537. _ 
 
 Calendar, in Spain, 68. 
 
 Calendar of epochs, Mohammed's, 381. _ 
 
 California, Horace Greeley's famous ride in, 
 236; irrigation in, 24c; fruits and vegetables 
 of, 344 ; leprosy in, 427. 
 
 Caligula, the Vindictive, 177; his name in 
 the Temple of Denderah, 269. 
 
 Calpe, 109. 
 
 Calvary, chapel on the site of. 394. 
 
 Calvin, John, persecution of, 8. 
 
 Gambia, Arnolfo del, designer of Florence 
 cathedral, 169. 
 
 Cambyses, sieges of Karnak by, 282 ; battles 
 of, in Egypt, 288 ; breaks the statue of 
 Memnon, 297. 
 
 Camel, the growl of a, 262. 274 ; anecdote, 560. 
 
 Camels, use of, in Egypt, 209-211, 222, 225, 
 2^1, 244, 262, 278, 304 ; the discomforts of 
 riding, 304 ; in Jaffa, 342, 343 ; a caravan of, 
 432 ; variety among, 432 ; the instruments 
 of a miracle, 465 ; employed in transporting 
 the remains of the Colossus of Rhodes, 500; 
 use of, in Turkey, 547. 
 
 Campanile of Venice, the, 166. 
 
 Campbell's Tomb, 236. 
 
 Campo Santo, Genoa, 145. 
 
 Campos de la Mancha, the, 36. . 1. ' 
 
 Canaan, a synoptical table of, 282; Joshuas 
 partition of, 342, 434. _ . t- u • 
 
 Canaanites, successful oppositicn to Ephraim, 
 348 ; former owners of Shechem, 438. 
 
 Canada, represented on Mars' Hill, 521. 
 
 Cana-El-Jaeliel, supposed site ot Cana of 
 Galilee, 458. 
 
 Canals, of Venice, 161 ; irrigating, 221, 226, 
 240 ; old Egyptian, 336 ; across the Isthmus 
 of Corinth, 524 ; the Suez and Corinthian 
 compared, 524. 
 
IxnF.x. 
 
 581 
 
 Cana of Galilee, 458, 459. 
 
 Candia, coiujuebt of, by Venice, 162 ; in sight 
 
 of, 206. 
 " Candlestick " of Smyrna, the, 508. 
 Cannabis Indica, smoking, 93. 
 Cannes, 138 ; imprisonment of Bazaine at, 
 
 '33-. 
 
 Canning factories, experience in, 258. 
 
 Cano, Alonzo, paintings by, 23. 58. 
 
 Canova, statue of Napoleon I by, 154. 
 
 Canovas, del Castillo, demonstrations against, 
 24, 26 ; oratorj' of, 26. 
 
 " Canterbury Tales," the, 171. 
 
 Capernaum, Christ's visit to, 452 ; healing of 
 tne nobleman's son at, 45S ; in the time of 
 Christ, 467; ruins, 468; Christ's life and work 
 at, 468 ; the tribute-money scene at, 468. 
 
 Cape St. Martin, 9. 
 
 Capilla Real, the, 61. 62. 
 
 Capital of ancient civilization, the, 174. 
 
 Capital of the world, the, 174. 
 
 Capitoline Hill, 177. 
 
 Capri, island of, 188. 
 
 Capucine Cemetery, Rome, 182. 
 
 Caralombos, convent of, 419. 
 
 Caravan, life in a, 42S, 432, 433 ; a camel, 432. 
 
 Caravans. 89 ; Egyptian, 263 ; rendezvous of 
 Asiatic, 556. 
 
 Caria, 503. = 
 
 Carmel. Mount, 347, 442, 443, 449, 450, 453. 
 
 Carob-trees, 350. 366. 
 
 Carpets, Smyrna, 505, 506; collections of, at 
 Constantinople. 540. 
 
 Carriage, the secret of a graceful, 266. 
 
 Carthage. Archbishop of, 126. 
 
 Carthaginians, subjugate part of Spain, 52. 
 
 Carthusian monks, 13, 14. 
 
 Cartouches, Egyptian, 280. 
 
 Cartuja de Miraflores, the, 13, 14. 
 
 Caryatids of the Rameseam, 284. 
 
 Casa Loring. Marquis of, 64, 65. 
 
 Casa Santa, the, 203, 454. 
 
 Casino at .Monte Carlo, the, 140, 141. 
 
 Caskets, antique, 320. 
 
 Caspian .Sea, relative saltness of, 409. 
 
 "Cassim," fatal forgetfulnsss of, 440. 
 
 Cassiopeia, aspect of, in Egypt, 315. 
 
 Castelar, Emilio, 25, 26. 
 
 Castellar .Mountains, 112. 
 
 Castile, kings of, 14 ; kingdom of, 55. 
 
 Castile and Leon, the capital of, 13. 
 
 Castle Hill, Nice, 139. 
 
 Castles : Pau, 8 ; San Sebastian, 11 ; Burgos, 
 18 ; Toledo, 36; Gibraltar. 112 ; N'ice, 139 ; 
 in Italy, 205 ; Fort Pharos, 207 ; of Zion, 
 captured by David, 355 ; of Antonio, Jeru- 
 salem, 3S5 ; Tiberias. 465 ; at Banias, 473; 
 of Europe, 532 ; the Earthenware, 532 ; of 
 Asia, 532. 
 
 Cat, an Egyptian. 270. 
 
 Catacombs of Rome, 181, 189, 203, 228; in 
 Russia, 22S ; at Asyoot, 264. 
 
 Catalepsy, among howling dervishes. 330. 
 
 Catapults, marks of, on walls of Stamboul, 539. 
 
 Cathedrals: Bayonne, 9 ; Burgos, i^-iS, 46 ; 
 peculiarities of Spanish, 35, 46 ; Toledo. 
 35. 46 ; Cordova, 39, 40 ; Seville, 46, 149 ; 
 Granada, 61, 62 ; Malaga, 63 ; irreverence 
 in, 63, 64 ; Gibraltar, 108 ; Oran, 120 ; Al- 
 giers, 122 ; Marseilles. 137 ; San Lorenzo, 
 Genoa, 144 ; Milan, 149-154 ; San Marco, 
 Venice, 162, 165, 166; Florence, 169, 170; 
 Naples. 188; in Italy, 205 ; St. Paul's, Lon- 
 don, 370 ; Cologne, 370. 
 
 Catherine, Queen of Cyprus, 166. 
 
 Catherine de -Medici, 9. 
 
 Cats, the worship of, 219. 
 
 Catskills, headwaters of the Delaware in the. 
 
 474- 
 
 Caucasus, the Kalmucks of the, 559. 
 
 '"Cave, the Chapter of the," 513. 
 
 Cave-dwellers, 61. 
 
 Caves, used as stables in Palestine, 398. 
 
 Caviglia, discovery in Egypt, 244. 
 
 Cavour, Count, statue at .Milan, 154. 
 
 Cedar, Solomon's purchase of, 342. 
 
 Cedars, of Lebanon, used in construction of 
 Constantine's church at Bethlehem, 308 ; 
 of Cyprus, 498. 
 
 Celer, baker of Pompeii, 190. 
 
 Censers, use of. by Copts, 331. 
 
 Censorship of the press, Turkish, 562-565. 
 
 Centaur, the constellation of the, 315. 
 
 Center of the World, the supposed, 381 ; a 
 cleft reaching to the, 394. • 
 
 Central Africa, rainfall in, 239. 
 
 Central .America, area and population of 
 British. 115. 
 
 Central Park, New York, Cleopatra's Needle 
 in, 20S, 306, 
 
 Cervantes, Miguel de, statue of, 24, 25 ; house 
 of, 29 ; scene of" Don Qui.xote," 36. 
 
 Cesnola, General di, collection of Cyprian 
 antiquities, 499 ; charges against, and re- 
 wards conferred upon, 499. 
 
 Ceuta. 81, 112. 
 
 Chain pump, Egyptian form of the, 274. 
 
 Chains, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Chaldeans, capture of Jerusalem by the, 355. 
 
 Chamberlain, Joseph, 241. 
 
 Chamounix, the valley of, 227. 
 
 Champlain, Lake, beauty of sunset on, 192. 
 
 Changeable suits of apparel, Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Chapels: of Adam, 394; of St. George, on 
 Lykabettos, 522 ; of the Annunciation. Naz- 
 areth, 454 ; of the Apparition, 394; of the 
 Blind, Cairo, 326; of the Egyptian Mary, 
 390 ; of the Finding of the Cross, 394 ; of 
 the Manger. 399 ; of the Nativity, 399 ; 
 of the Raising of the Cross, 394 ; of the 
 Scourging, 382, 385 ; of the Sepulcher. 394 ; 
 of the Syrians, 393 ; of the Tomb of St. 
 Jerome, 399 ; practice of building, 393 ; the 
 Sistine, 186. 
 
 " Chapter of the Cave." the. 513. 
 
 Character, effect of climate on, 191. 
 
 Charity, Jews subsisting on, 418. 
 
 Charlemagne, ruins of time of, 4 ; son of, 154. 
 
 Charles 1, of England, visit to Madrid. 20. 
 
 Charles II, of Spain, death of, no. 
 
 Charles V, visits Cordova. 40; destroys part 
 of the Alhambra. 56 ; assault on Algiers, 129. 
 
 Charles IX, orders massacre of St. Barthol- 
 omew, 9. 
 
 Charms, use of, among the Nubians, 312, 313. 
 
 Charon, origin of the fable concerning. 252. 
 
 Chateaubriand, F. A., on the approach to Con- 
 stantinople, 335. 
 
 Chatillon, R. de, defeated by Saladin, 487. 
 
 Chaucer, a follower of Boccaccio. 171. 
 
 Chawia. the, 133. 
 
 Cheesemakers, the valley of the, 356. 
 
 Cheops, Pyramid of. 222, 225-231. 236; reign 
 of, 229 ; the glories of the age of. 322. 
 
 Chephren. reign of, 229 ; the Pyramid of, 229. 
 
 Chessboard, an ancient Egyptian, 321. 
 
 Chicago, an eccentric household from, 425. 
 
 Chicken-bone, divination by a, 313. 
 
582 
 
 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 Chiffa, River. 133. 
 
 Cliild, a hostage for stolen property, 312. 
 
 Cliikl-cater, a, 273. 
 
 Children. .Samaritan, 439 ; Bedouin, 472. 
 
 China, missions in, 335 ; the Methodist 
 Church in, 496. 
 
 Chinese, leprosy among the, 426. 
 
 Chios, landing at, 503. 
 
 Cholera, plague in Marseilles, 137 ; at Tou- 
 lon, 138 ; epidemic in Naples, 192. 
 
 Chorazin, in time of Christ, 467 ; site of, 468. 
 
 Chosroes, raids the convent of iMar S.iba, 403. 
 
 Christ, the tears of, 200 ; statue of, 203 ; im- 
 print of his feet, 203 ; the deity of. 207; con- 
 temporary with completion of the Temple 
 of Denderah, 267 ; the Coptic belief in 
 the divinity of, 331 ; flight to Egypt, 349 ; 
 crucifixion of, see Crucifixion ; love for 
 Jerusalem, 351 ; Jerusalem in the time of, 
 355; healing the blind man. 361 ; betrayal, 
 361, 365 ; as judge at the last day, 362 ; 
 scenes in the life of, 365 ; weeping over 
 Jerusalem, 369 ; the triumphal procession 
 of, 369, 374 ; cave said to have been fre- 
 quented by, 370; tradition of his second 
 coming, 374 ; .Mohammedan idea of, 378, 
 553. 554 ; ^ footprint of, 382 ; the Via Do- 
 lorosa of, 382, 385, 386 ; scene of binding the 
 cross on his shoulders, 385 ; sinking imder 
 the cross, 385, 386; mark of his shoulder, 
 3S6 ; meeting with his mother, 3S6 ; address 
 to the women, 386; anointing the body of, 
 390; third appearance to Mary Magdalene, 
 390; the piercing of his side, 304; the 
 laborer sowing peas, and, 397 ; birthplace, 
 398, 399 ; a Hebrew opinion of, 400 ; bap- 
 tism of, 410, 452 ; temptation and forty 
 days' fast, 413 ; route from Jericho to Jeru- 
 salem, 414; a lunatic's delusion regarding 
 the second coming of, 422 ; missing from 
 his parents' company at Keeroth, 430; at 
 Jacob's Well, 437 ; visit to Capernaum, 
 452 ; last visit to Nazareth, 452, 4^3 ; life 
 in, and connection with, Nazareth, 452- 
 457; no relic of his manual work existing, 
 456 ; first miracle, 458 ; miracles at Cana, 
 458 ; the Sea of Galilee in the time of, 467 ; 
 pays tribute-money, 468 ; walking on the 
 water. 46S ; asleep on the Sea of Galilee, 
 468; life at Capernaum, 468; declaration 
 to Peter, 475 ; incidents in his life at Caes- 
 area Philippi, 475, 476; destruction of 
 image of, in church at Damascus, 484, 487 ; 
 in praise of Smyrna. 507 ; tribulation of 
 Smyrna for. 507, 508 ; cradle and bath, 540. 
 
 Christ Church, Jerusalem, 422. 
 
 Christian, the natural emotions of a, 399. _ 
 
 Christian architecture, the most ancient 
 monument of, 399. 
 
 Christian heroism, 203. 
 
 Christianity, growth of, in Alexandria, 207; 
 a Mohammedan convert to, 265 ; in Egypt, 
 309, 330-333 ; mixture of, in Mohammed- 
 anism. 323 ; among the Copts, 330, 331 ; 
 narrow line between Mohammedanism and, 
 333 ; the sacred places of, 341 ; issues be- 
 tween Mohammedanism and, 378 ; in .^^bys- 
 sinia, 420. 421 ; in Damascus. 484 ; the life 
 of, 522 ; Islam's victories over Judaism 
 and, 543 ; the frontier of, 549. 
 
 Christian quarter in Damascus, the, 483. 
 
 Christians, their word rejected in ^lorocco 
 courts, 98 ; belief of the early, regarding 
 lunatics, 217; persecution of, in Egypt, 
 
 264; early, in Egypt, 288; Mohammed's 
 tolerance of. 323 ; paganism among, 325 ; 
 renegade, ^25; recapture Jerusalem, 356; 
 animosity between Jews and, in Jerusalem, 
 377 ; reverence for Rachel's tomb, 397 ; 
 peculiar doctrine regarding settlement of, 
 in Palestine, 422 ; undcsirability of their 
 control of Jerusalem, 425 ; agree as to site 
 of Jacob's Well, 435; at Nabulus, 438; 
 attitude of inhabitants of Nabulus ttjward, 
 438; wars with Samaritans, 440; Samari- 
 tans become, 440 ; rallying-point for, during 
 the Crusades, 474 ; estimate of Saladin, 
 487 ; slaughter of, in Damascus, 488 ; in 
 Cyprus, 497 ; the pre'eminent interest of, 
 in Smyrna, 507 ; of Smyrna, 508 ; contrasted 
 with Turks, 559. 
 Christian science, a Bedouin parallel of. 492. 
 Christmas Eve. midnight mass in Malaga 
 
 cathedral, 63, 64. 
 Chrysostom, St.. followers of, burn church of 
 
 Santa Sophia. 540. 
 Churches: Christ Church, Jerusalem, 422; 
 Gloria in Excelsis, 400 ; of Buda-Pesth, 
 572; of Dionysius the Areopagite, 522; 
 of the Annunciation. Nazareth, 454, 455 ; 
 of the Ascension, 369; of the Greeks in 
 Syria, 419 ; of the Holy Sepulcher, 172, 382- 
 394, 420; of the Nativity, 398, 399; of the 
 Three Fountains, the, 203; on INlount 
 Gerizim, 437; St. Anne. Jerusalem, 382; 
 St. John Lateran, 182 ; St. Maria Maggiore, 
 399 ; St. Paul, Naples, 189 ; St. Paul 
 \\ ithout the \Valls. 186. 203 ; St. Peter's, 
 Rome, 475 ; St. Polycarp, Smyrna, 508 ; 
 San MarcL, Venice, 162, 165, 166 ; San Mar- 
 tino, Naples, 189 ; the Angel's Chapel, 303. 
 Cicero, statue of, in Naples. 189 ; on the First 
 Cataract, 310; Ephesus and, 509; scene of 
 his exile. 531. 
 Cid, the, 14. 
 
 Cigars, manufacture in Seville, 44. 
 C ilicia, Samian colony in. 503. 
 Cimon the Athenian, 509. 
 Cincinnati, likened to Servia, 571. 
 Cinnamon, trade in, at Asyoot, 263. 
 Circassia, the white slaves of, 561. 
 Circassians, in Constantinople, 547 ; at 
 
 Robert College, 555. 
 Circumcision of children bom in the wilder- 
 ness, the scene of, 413. 
 Cistercians, a convent of the, 14. 
 Cities of the Plain, destruction of the, 405, 
 
 409, 410. See also Gomorrah; Sodom. 
 Citron-culture, at Sulem, 443. 
 City of Cities, the, 174. 
 City of David, origin of the name, 355. 
 City of the Soul, the. 174. 
 City of the Tombs, the, 212, 213. 
 City of Wolves, the, 263. 
 Clauda, 206. 
 
 Claudius, his name in the Temple of Den- 
 derah, 269 ; contribution to the Temple of 
 Isis, 309. 
 Cleanliness, among the Samaritans, 439. 
 Clemens VIII, Pope, indulgences granted by, 
 
 26, 27. 
 Cleopatra, Balm of Gilead planted by, 219 ; 
 relations with Caesar, 269 ; contribution to 
 the Temple of Isis, 309 ; residence at 
 Samos, 503. 
 " Cleopatra," voyage of the, 208. 
 Cleopatra's Needles, 208, 306. 
 Clergymen, sale of photographs by, 439. 
 
Index. 
 
 583 
 
 trade 
 
 Sala 
 
 Climate, effect of forests on, 19 ; influence on 
 character, 71, 191 ; the most delightful in 
 the world, 93 ; effect on architecture, 190 • 
 nifluence on insanity, 217 ; influence in 
 i-gjpt, 240. 
 Cnidus, 503. 
 
 Coates, Sir Peter, winter residence in Al- 
 giers, 129. 130; death, 130. 
 Cobblers, philosophical, 23. 
 Cock, tlie warning to St. Peter, 417 
 Coffee, in Tangier, 89, 92 ; at the Khedive's 
 dinners, 2i6; Egyptian, 299, 301, 334 • in 
 Jerusalem, 421 ; in Constantinople, 5=^ 
 Coffee-cups, valuable, 216. " 
 
 Coffee-houses, in Cairo, 211. 
 Cogoleto, Columbus's alleged birthplace 14- 
 Coins, in National Museum. Naples igo • 
 from Pompeii, 197; Ephesian, 511 • 
 in spurious, in Athens. 516. 
 College of the Propaganda, the. 182. 
 Colleges, Presbyterian, at Asyoot, 264 
 
 din s building of, 487. 
 Cologne, how to view the cathedral at, 370 
 Colon Fernando, founder of Biblioteca Co- 
 
 lombina, 45 ; tomb of, 46. 
 Colosseum, the, 178 ; statue of Nero at, 287 
 Colossi, the, 294-297, 538. 
 Colossus, at Lu.xor, 277; of Rhodes, 499, 
 500. ^^^ 
 
 Columbia College, honors Gen. Cesnola 
 
 499- 
 Columbus. Christopher, first gold brought to 1 
 turope by, 35 ; discovery of America, 4=;- I 
 geographical studies of, 45, 46 ; transac- 
 tions with the Inquisition, 46 ; embarkation ' 
 from Seville, 49 ; Isabella's aid to, 56, 62 ■ 
 relics in Seville, 143 ; statue at Genoa, 14, •' 
 birthplace, 143 ; statue at .Milan, 154. ' 
 
 Columbus, Ferdinand. See Colom I 
 
 Column, a sweating, 540 ; the Burnt, at Con- 
 stantinople, 560. 
 Column of Gabriel, the, 454. 
 Column of the Scourging, the 385 
 Column of the Three Serpents, the, 560 
 Columns, a forest of magnificent, 279 • weep- 
 ■"^xT^H:* '■ Eastern use of, 399 ; a street of, 
 in Nabulus, 441; profane use of, 520; of 
 Corinth, 527. » o 1 « 
 
 Commerce in .Morocco, 97-^ ; importance of, 
 
 140; Venetian, 158; in Egypt, 240 
 Commercial morality of the Greeks, 523 
 Communion, administration of, amone the 
 
 Copts, 331. * 
 
 Como, Lake view of the mountains of, from 
 
 Milan cathedral, 153. 
 Confederate promissory notes, 573. 
 Confessional, in Spain. 71. 
 Confessional-boxes, in St. Peter's 1S2 
 Congresso de los Disputandas, of Spain, 24 
 Conjectures, a wilderness of, 385 
 Conjurors, 89. 
 
 Connecticut, a Yankee from, at Thebes, 278 
 Conscription of laborers on Suez Canal, 337 ' 
 Conservatorii, 145. -^ 
 
 Constantine, province of 133 
 Constantine the Great, 177; victory over 
 Ma.xentius, i8i ; Triumphal Arch of, 181 ■ 
 the mother of, 202, 203. 383 (see also Hel- 
 E.VA); erects church at Bethlehem, 398- 
 orders destruction of Temple of Diana 512 •' 
 makes Byzantium his capital, 5:16 ; builds 
 the walls of Stamboul, 539 ; founding of 
 banta Sophia in time of, 540; the unfinished 1 
 Hippodrome of, 560. 
 
 Constantinople, Saracen siege of, ,5 ; historic 
 painting of, 63; conquest by Venice. 158- 
 bronze horses in, 162, 165 ; a rival of Naples 
 for beauty, ,88 ; ashes from Vesuvius at, 
 193; mission of Eutropius to Lycopolis 
 from, 264 ; the Bible House in, 265, 556, 557' 
 Miss Mangans influence at, 344 "artists 
 brought to Damascus from, 487 ; reduction 
 of journey from Messina to, 524 ; voyage 
 from the Pira;us to, 53, ; a rival of Rome. 
 532 ; approach to, 532, 535-538 ; siiuation, 
 .-,35; I'sg"' 536; .Mohammedan conquest 
 ot, 536 ; Roman acquisition of, 536 ■ final 
 capture by the Turks, 536; the modern 
 city, 536 et seq. ; architecture, 537 • Be 
 
 orX"<;°i"' ^^^.i-Tt'"^.^' 540; celebration 
 of the Sultans birthday m. 544 ; likened to 
 London and Pans, 547 ; traffic in, 547 ■ Ar- 
 menians in, 549 ; shipping of, 549 ;' the 
 Greek patriarch at, 543 ; the Sultan's week- 
 1>- journey to worship, 550, 553 ; Robert 
 college, 554, 555 ; atheism in, 555 ■ buryine- 
 grounds, 556 ; Ireasury, 557 ; custom of sell- 
 "IS the air, 557; hippodrome, 560; statue 
 ot Apollo. 560 ; the Seven Towers, 560, 561 • 
 fountains and scenery. 561 ; eunuchs, 561' 
 562 ; dogs, 562 ; departure from, 567. 
 Contrast, a striking. 314. 
 Convents, Mar Saba, 400^404 ; of the Greek 
 
 Church in Syria, 419 
 Conybsare, W. J., quoted, 490. 
 Cook, the advantage of a fat, 258. 
 Cooking. Egyptian representations of, 292 
 Cooks, wandering, in Egypt, 210. 
 Coos. 501, 503. 
 
 Coptic chapel at the Holy Sepulcher. 390 
 Coptic convent, on the Nile, 251 
 Coptic convents of Egypt, research in, 248 
 Coptic inscriptions in temple of Ptolemy 
 Philopater, 288. ^ 
 
 Coptic language, decay of, 331. 
 Copts, ttrrbans of 212; union with other races 
 and sects in Cairo, 214 ; claim for the Vir- 
 ^l" ^ Au^?^ .^'9 ■• education of, at Asyoot, 
 264; Christianity. 330, 331 ; customs, char- 
 acteristics, etc., 331 ; intoxication. 331 • com- 
 pared with Arabs. 331, 332 ; number of, in 
 
 t¥^\' ^F^ '" '^^^ Presbyterian mission 
 schools of Egj'pt, 332, 333; ownership of 
 .hi ='°"e,°f Anointing. 390; worship in 
 the Angel * Chapel 394 ; worship in the 
 Chapel of the Sepulcher, 394 ; monaster>' 
 and chapels in Jerusalem, 420 ; connection 
 with the Abyssinian Church, 421 
 Cora , lack of. in the Dead Sea. 409. 
 Coral-divers, of Symi. 500. 
 Cordova, birthplace of eminent men, 36 • his- 
 tory, situation, characteristics, etc 36-40- 
 cathedral, 39, 40 ; past glories, 40 ; Roman 
 remains in, 40 ; .Muley Abbas in, 40 • West- 
 ern Caliphate at. 55 ; bull-pastures, 77 
 Coressian Gate, Ephesus, the, 511 
 Coressus, Mount, 510. 
 Corfu, captured by the Venetians. 158 
 Corinth view of, from the Parthenon, =21- 
 arrival at, 524: old and new, 524; route 
 from Athens to, 524 ; Gulf of, 524, 528 • 
 Isthmus of, 524 ; trade, 527 ; re-established 
 by Casar, 527 ; favorable site. 527 • deca- 
 dence 527 ; rivals of, 527; weakness of the 
 church in, 528. 
 Corinthians, interest in naval matters so^ • 
 scene of writing the First Epistle to the, 514.' 
 Corn, in Egj'pt, 240 ; Danube trade in, 549 
 
584 
 
 'ruAVKLs IN Three Continents. 
 
 Cornaro, Catherine, birihplace of, 166. 
 
 Cornell University, the President of, in Cairo, 
 335 ; in Athens, 516. 
 
 Corporal punishment, in Tangier, 86. 
 
 Corrcggio, Antonio, paintings by, 23, 171. 
 
 Corruption in Morocco, 97, 98- 
 
 Corso (laribaldi, the, 192. 
 
 Corso Vittorio Kmanuele. the, 192. 
 
 Cvrtes, the Spanish, 24-26 ; attitude toward 
 bullfights, 80. 
 
 Cortes, Ferdinand, embarks from Seville, 49. 
 
 Cossacks, in Constantinople, 547. 
 
 Costume, Albanian, 528, 529 ; Arab, 212 ; Cir- 
 cassian, 547 ; Kgyptian, 209, 210, 212, 287, 
 306, 320, 321 ; in Gibraltar, 107 ; Greek, 528, 
 529. 547; in Italy, 200; of Mohammedan 
 wximen, 547 ; Moorish, 90. 91 ; Nubian. 312; 
 Servian, 571 ; Spanish, 66, 67 ; in Tangier, 
 85 ; 1 artar, 547 ; contrasts in, 547 ; descrip- 
 tion of that of Hebrew women, by Isaiah, 
 320, 321 ; of friars, 547 ; supposed, of Jo- 
 seph's brethren, 255. 
 
 Cotton-culture, in Egypt, 209, 239,240. 
 
 Council of Nice. 207, 540. 
 
 Council of Ten, 167. 
 
 " Count of Monte Cristo." 138. 
 
 Coup d'etat, anniversary of Napoleon Ill's, i. 
 
 Courier, an uivaluabie, 215. 
 
 Cours Belzance, Marseilles, 137. 
 
 Courtesy, Oriental, 326. 
 
 Court of I. ions. Alhambra, 52. 
 
 Court of Oranges, 40. 
 
 Cow, worship of the sacred, 268. 
 
 Cows, sacred, in .■\syoot, 262. 
 
 Cramps, wooden, a study for architects, 288. 
 
 Cranes, on the Nile, 250; in the plain of Es- 
 draelon, 442. 
 
 Cranks, 154. 
 
 Crawford, Earl of, residence near Florence, 
 
 Crawford, Rev. John, mission work of, 489. 
 
 Crema, conquered by \ enice. 158. 
 
 Cremation, at Milan. 154. 
 
 Crescent, the, its first planting in Europe, 
 532 ; legend of, 536. 
 
 Cretans, St. Paul's characterization of the, 
 206. 
 
 Crete, 206 ; Samian colony in. 503. 
 
 Crimea, the 1 artars of the, 559. 
 
 Crimean War. 382 ; Gen. Cesnola in, 499. 
 
 Crin-Sphinx. Avenue of the. 270. 
 
 Cripples, at Lourdes, 7 : in Egypt, 222. 
 
 Crisping-pins, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Criticism, difficulties of, 45; fashions in, 51; 
 a latitude of. 407. 
 
 Crocodiles, mummies of, 261 ; stories about, 
 and worship of, 269-273 ; in Florida and 
 Louisiana, 273. 
 
 Croesus, 509. 
 
 Crophi. the mountain of, 310. 
 
 Cross, the, binding on Christ's shoulders. 385; 
 sinking under, 385, 386 ; Simon's bearing 
 of, 386 ; Helena's search for, 389 ; Chapels 
 of the Raising and Finding of, 394 ; muti- 
 lated by Turks, 543. 
 
 Crosses, Coptic use of, 331 ; manufacture of, 
 at Bethlehem. 307. 
 
 Crown of thorns, the, 385. 
 
 Crow's Nest, Gibraltar. 112. 
 
 Crucifixion, the, painting at Florence. T70; 
 the railing of the thieves. :;4Q ; disturbances 
 in Jerusalem after, 355 ; route to the place 
 of, 382, 385, 386 ; questionable site of, 386, 
 389 ; earthquakes at, 394. 
 
 Cruelty in Spain, ecclesiastical, 10; to ani 
 
 mals, 74-80. 
 Crusade, a famous, 81. 
 
 Crusaders, a famous road of, 346 ; build a 
 church at .Mizpah, 350; capture Jerusalem, 
 356; celebration of Palm Sunday, 374; a 
 relic of the. 382 ; battle at Horns of Hattin, 
 461 ; besiege Constantinople, 536. 
 Crusades, the use of the word " assassin " 
 during, 218 ; importance of Banias during. 
 474 ; romance of, 487. 
 Cubit, the measure of a, 214. 
 Culture, the cradle of human, 206; rise and 
 
 decay of Egyptian, 322. 
 Cur^iTlg, Mount of, 437. 
 Cushing, Caleb, at the Alhambra, 57. 
 Custom-house inspection, at I run, 10. 
 "Custom of the cfuntry," the, 257. 
 Cyanean Rocks, the, 548. 
 Cyclopean ruins, 510. 
 
 Cyprus, a British cutpost, 115 ; birthplace of 
 Queen Catherine of, 166; from Beirut to, 
 497 ; climate, 497 ; size, population, etc., 
 497-499 ; cedars and swcrds of, 498 ; Paul's 
 voyage " under," 408 ; Lazarus's remark- 
 able voyage to, 408 ; colonizers of. 498 ; 
 resorted to by Scriptural characters, 498 ; 
 Solon's residence in. 408; Cesnola's collec- 
 tion of antiquities from. 4C9 ; voyage to 
 Rhodes from, 499 ; beaiuiful women of, 499. 
 Cyrus, king of Persia, grants timber for the 
 Temple, 342. 
 
 Dahabeah, travel on the Nile by, 241, 244, 
 
 317- 
 
 Dalmatia, geology of, 109 ; conquest by 
 Venice, 158 ; removal of the Virgin's house 
 from Nazareth to, 203, 454. 
 
 Damaris, the believer, 522. 
 
 Damascenes, wars between the Israelites and 
 the, 480. t 
 
 Damascus, road from Jerusalem to, 374 ; 
 ancient caravan route to Egypt from, 471 ; 
 road from Banias to, 478. 479 ; Roman road 
 to Palestine and Egypt from, 479 ; arrival 
 at, 479 ; scene of Saul's conversion, 47Q ; an- 
 tiquity, 480: rivers. 4E0; Elijah and Elisha 
 at. 480 ; conquered by David, 480 ; Paul's 
 relation to. 480 ; described by Fzekiel, 480; 
 quarters of, 483 ; likened to Cairo, 483 ; 
 situation. 483; bazaars, 483; departed glo- 
 ries of its blades, 483 ; Arab opinion of, 483 ; 
 merchants, 483, 484 ; barbers, 484 ; clothing- 
 trade, 484 ; captured by Saladin, 487 ; Mos- 
 lem seizure of the Christian church, 484, 
 487 ; Arab superstition regarding erection of 
 the Great .Mosque, 487; Mohammedan out- 
 rages. 488 ; leper hospitals, 488 ; St. Paul's 
 escape from, 488, 489; Protestant mission, 
 489 ; Protestant ceireterj% 489 ; an earthly 
 paradise, 489 ; Buckle's tomb, 489; Cony- 
 beare and Howson's description, 490; French 
 occupation. 491 ; massacres, 491 ; road to 
 Beirut from, 401 ; dismissing the caravan at. 
 491 ; scenery about, 491. 
 
 Damascus Gate, Jerusalem, 373, 374, 389. 
 
 Dames de Nazareth, the, 496. 
 
 Dan, share of Canaan, 342. 
 
 Dan, luncheon at, 472 ; fountain of the Jor- 
 dan at, 474. 47S. 
 
 Dancing, in Spain. 68. 
 
 r><ancine-women in Thebes. 299. 
 
 Dandolo, Admiral, conquest of Candia, 162. 
 
 Danes, at Robert College, 555. 
 
Index. 
 
 58: 
 
 Danites, a desperate clan, 472 ; subdued by 
 Benhadad, 472. 
 
 Dante, statue at Milan, 154 ; birthplace, 167 ; 
 inrtuence on the Italian language, 167 ; a 
 great moral educator, 167 ; monument in 
 Florence, 170. 
 
 Danube, corn-trade of the, 549 ; tributaries, 
 568 ; union with the Save, 571 ; at Buda- 
 Pesth, 571. 572. 
 
 Darfoor, trade with Asyoot, 263. 
 
 Dark Continent, scenery of the, 136, 
 
 Darkness, religious ceremonies in total, 267. 
 
 Darro, River, 50, 51. 
 
 Dashoor, a cemetery of Memphis. 247. 
 
 Dates, of Keneh, 266; the start of life in 
 Nubia, 312. 
 
 David, King, offense against the ark of the 
 covenant, 350; love for Jerusalem, 351; 
 defeats the Jebusites, 352, 355 ; the city of, 
 origin of the name, 355 ; tomb of, 374. 417 ; 
 supposed site of an altar of, 377 ; alleged 
 praying-spot of, 381 ; scene of his defeat 
 of the Philistines, 396 ; great-grandmother 
 of. 397 ; scenes of his exploits, 398 ; the 
 house of, 417; Tower of, 417; conquers 
 Damascus, 480 ; Turkish views of his music- 
 al abilities, 563. 
 
 Day of Judgment, Mohammed's reckoning of 
 the, 381. 
 
 Dead, burial of the, in Genoa. 145, 146. 
 
 Dead Sea, exploded traditions concerning, 
 405. 406, 409, 410; view of, from the Mount 
 of Olives, 370; ride to, 405 ; its causes, con- 
 dition, and history, 405-410; les'el com- 
 pared with the .Mediterranean. 406; depth, 
 406 ; specific gravity of its waters, 406 ; rel- 
 ative saltness. 409 ; animal life, 400 ; pecu- 
 liarity of its waters. 409 ; the author's belief 
 concerning its form.ition, 410 ; a glorious 
 view of, 413; reputed imprisonment of 
 John the Baptist near, 441 ; its appalling 
 but truthful name, 467, 475; the grave of 
 the Jordan. 475. 
 
 De Amicis, Edmondo, description of the .Al- 
 hambra, 50 ; on the approach to Constan- 
 tinople, 532, 537. _ 
 
 Deborah, song of victory of, 445, 446. 
 
 " Decameron," the, 171. 
 
 Decapitation, in Morocco. 94. 
 
 Decatur, Captain, action in Algiers, 128. 
 
 Decorations, ancient Egyptian, 320, 321. 
 
 Dedication, the feast of the, 377. 
 
 Deiiies, multinominal, 267. 
 
 Deity, the attributes of the, according to the 
 dervishes. 553, 554. 
 
 Delaware River, analogy between the Jordan 
 and the, 474. 
 
 Delphi, the oracle of, 264 ; the Megarians 
 and the oracle, 537 ; the tripod of the 
 priest of Apollo at, 560. 
 
 Demetrius, convent of, 419; impeaches Paul, 
 512. 
 
 Democracy, what constitutes a. 571. 
 
 Demosthenes, statue of. in Naples. 189; 
 scene of his orations. 522 : the city of, 523; 
 oration against Philip of Macedon, 536. 
 
 Denderah, the temple of. 266-269; paintings 
 in. 267 ; religious ceremonies in. 267. 
 
 Denmark, blackmailed by Algiers, 127. 
 
 Dervish, anecdote of a. 560. 
 
 Dervishes, spinning. 326; howling, 326-330 ; 
 in Constantinople. 547; various orders of. 
 553; spinning, of Constantinople. 553; at- 
 tributes of the Deity according to, 553, 554. 
 
 Desert, an hour alone in the, 311; near 
 Damascus, 491; the Arabian, 335; the 
 Egyptian, 222, 225, 226, 232, 238, 240, 247, 
 
 258, 265, 269, 288, 293, 303, 337, 338, 479 ; 
 
 the Libyan, 238, 293, 294. 
 Despots, 544. 
 
 Devil, the, crafty work of the, 381. 
 Devilrish. at Naples, 190. 
 Devils, the herd of swine and the. 471. 
 Diadem, an ancient Egyptian. 321. 
 Dialects, strange, 504, 506 ; at Robert Col- 
 lege, 554 ; at Beirut. 554. 
 Diana, warning to .\le.\ander the Great from, 
 507; alleged birthplace, 509; Temple uf, 511. 
 Diarbekir. captured by Jialadin, 487. 
 Diaz de Bavar. Rodrigo, Ruy de, 14. 
 Dimas, the penitent thief. 349. 
 Diocletian, martyrdom of St. Januarius 
 under. 188; tribute of Pompeius to, 207; 
 the Seven Sleepers in the time of, 313. 
 Diodorus Siculus, relates origin of fable of 
 
 Charon, 252. 
 Diogenes, the home of, 527; Alexander's 
 
 visit to, 527. 
 Dionysius the .^reopagite, ttie church of, 522. 
 Dionysus, the theater of, 520. 
 Disciples, myth concerning the, 361. 
 Disease, influence of, on insanity, 217; a 
 
 Turkish method of cure, 549. 
 Dispensation, a special, 36. 
 Display. Italian love of, 200. 
 Disraeli. Benjamin, visit- the Alhambra, 57. 
 ''Distance lends enchantment," 537. 
 Divers, of Symi, the. 500. 
 Divination by a chicken-bone, 313. 
 Dizziness, cause of, 225, 226 ; in ascent of the 
 
 Great Pyramid, 237. 
 Djebel Mouzaia. 133. 
 Doctors of divinity. George Eliot on the 
 
 vanity of, 439. 
 Dodge, Rev. D. Stuart, work at Beirut. 495. 
 Dodge, William E., 495. 
 
 Doges, Palace of the, Venice, 165 ; corona- 
 tion of the, 165. 
 Dogs, in Egypt, 250. 266 ; in Palestine, 433, 
 
 443, 451 ; of Constantinople, 562. 
 Dome of the Rock, the, 378, 381. 
 Domitian, the Persecutor. 177 ; contribution 
 
 to the Temple of Isis, 309. 
 Dom palms, 261. 
 " Don," use of the title, 67. 
 Donatello. sculptor. 167 ; crucifix by, 170. 
 Donatus, figure of, in Florence, 170. 
 Donkey, anecdote of a. 560. 
 Donkey-boys, in Egypt, 244. 
 Donkeys, use of, in Egypt, 209-211. 221, 222, 
 244, 256, 262. 278. 294, 304, 50s ; in Jaffa, 
 342. 343 : in Palestine, 373,374; in Smyrna, 
 505 ; in Turkej-. 547. 
 " Don Quixote,' authorship, publication, and 
 
 scenes of, 36. 
 Doomsday, a suggestion of. 196. 
 Doorsy. John, Hobib, and .Micheel, 452. 
 Dor. 446. 
 
 Dorcas, life at Joppa. 342 ; tomb of, 346. 
 Doric architecture, 520. 
 Dothan, ruins of. 441. 
 Dox'ology. sung in a Spanish convent, 58. 
 Dragoman, the selection of a. 428. 
 Dramatic art, the cradle of, 320. 
 Draught of fishes, the miraculous, 468. 
 Dresden. Raphael's Madonna in, 186. 
 Dress. Italian love of, 200. 
 Drew, Samuel, 23. 
 
586 
 
 Travels in Three Coxtixents. 
 
 Dried Fountain, the, 548. 
 
 L»ri>sian line of descent from Mohammed, 98. 
 
 Dromedaries, 222. 
 
 Drugs, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 l)runis, use of, by howling dervishes, 329. 
 
 Drunkenness, in Spain, 23,69 ; absence of, in 
 Tangier, 93; among the Kreiich of Algeria, 
 I20, 121 ; of hasheesh, 218; among the 
 Copts, 331. 
 
 Druses, the, 477, 478; outrages of, in Damas- 
 cus, 488. 
 
 Dry atmosphere, preservative action of a, 231. 
 
 Ducie, Lord, kills a crocodile, 273. 
 
 I)ucks. on the shores of the Dead Sea, 409; 
 at Lake Huleh, 472. 
 
 Durazzo, captured by Venice, 158. 
 
 Dutch, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 L)utch Jews, in Tiberias, 465. 
 
 Dutch school of painting, 23. 
 
 Dyes, trade in. in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Earlham College. Ind., represented on Mars' 
 Hill, 521. 
 
 Earrings, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Earthenware Castle, the, 532. 
 
 Earthquake, effect on the statue of Memnon, 
 297; destruction of the Colossus of Rhodes 
 by an, 499. 
 
 Earthquakes, at Vesuvius, 195, 196; hypoth- 
 esis concerning, 196 ; effect on Pompeii, 
 197; resistance of the Pyramids to, 231 ; rav- 
 ages of, at Karnak, 279, 282 : effect in Egypt, 
 28S ; at the Crucifixion, 394; around the 
 Sea of Galilee, 465 : in Smyrna, 50S ; pre- 
 cautions against, at Ephesus, 512 ; marks 
 on the walls of Stamboid, 539. 
 
 East, the vastness of the. 325. 
 
 Easter Sunday, the commencement of the 
 bullfight season, 74. 
 
 Ebal, Mount, 435-437. 
 
 Ebony bludgeons, trade in, at Assouan, 305. 
 
 Ecce Homo Arch, the. 385. 
 
 Ecclesiastical intolerance in Spain, 10. 
 
 Ecclesiastical law, teaching, in Cairo, 326. 
 
 Ecclesiastical legends, the most incredible of, 
 
 454- 
 
 Echoes, on Ebal and Gerizim, 437. 
 
 Edfoo. temple at, 303. 
 
 Education, at San Sebastian, 12; at Madrid, 
 28 ; in Tangier, 86 ; perils of, in Morocco, 
 98; in Italy. 202; in Egypt. 207, 264, 325, 
 326, 332, 333: at Jaffa, 344: in Syria, 419; 
 at Protestant mission in Jerusalem, 422; 
 fostered by Saladin, 487; at Beirut, 492, 
 495,496; in Smyrna, 507 ; at Athens, 522; 
 in Constantinople, 550, 554, 555. 
 
 Edward IV, of England, repairs church at 
 Bethlehem, 398. 
 
 Edwards, Amelia B., omission by, 264; on 
 ophthalmia in Egypt, 265: on the stars in 
 Eg5'ptian skies, 315. 
 
 Eggs, hatching ostrich, 220. 
 
 Egypt, embarkation for, 205; first glimpse of, 
 206: Herodotus on, 206. 207, 238; Gen. 
 Grant's opinion of, 207; learning and the 
 arts. 207 ; the most ancient mosque in, 214; 
 taxation, 215; the Khedive, 2T5, 216; 
 "Yankee Doodle" in, 216; lunatics, 216- 
 219; use of opium, 217; the capital of 
 Lower, 219; residence of Jacob's family, 
 219 ; the Oxford of Old, 219; monumental 
 customs, 230, 231; debt to the Nile, 238; 
 Zincke on, 230 ; the valley of the Nile, 239 ; 
 influence of the Nile on intellectual char- 
 
 actor, 240; corn in, 240; research in Coptic 
 convents of, 248; vandals in, 249; the most 
 instructive tomb in, 249 ; death-scenes, 250; 
 curious funeral customs in, 251, 252; sup- 
 posed painting of the arrival of Joseph's 
 brethren in, 255; fascination of the girls of, 
 256; ophthalmia in, 264, 265; preservation 
 of remains in, 267, 278; Indian Sepoys in, 
 268 ; worship of the sacred cow, 268 ; the 
 silence of, 274; extension of, 276 ; under 
 Amenophis I, 276; introduction of the 
 horse into, 276; last warrior king of, 276; 
 demand for anticjuities in, 278 ; a land of 
 past history, 288 ; skill of architects in, 288 ; 
 deceptive appearance of age in women of, 
 299, 300 ; the stones of, 302 ; theconser\ator 
 of the monuments of, 303 ; extreme southern 
 boundary of, 304 ; climate, 306 ; the best 
 view in, ^09; Christianity in, 309, 330-333 ; 
 robbery m, 311, 312; an invalid resort, 316; 
 the glory of. in Asia, 319; complexity of its 
 mythology, 320; Ethiopian conquest, 321 ; 
 ' symbolic mythology, 321, 322 ; first historic 
 king, 322 ; a long stage of unrecc rded 
 development, 322 ; Mohammedanism, 
 323-333; Arab conquest, 330; French in- 
 habitants, 332; number of Ci pts. 332; 
 Roman Catholic Church. 332, 333; Gieek 
 Church, 332, 333; Protestant mission in, 
 332, 333; Sabbath schools, 333; servants 
 in, 334 ; French evacuation of, 336 ; 
 scarcity of rain in. 336 ; effect of construc- 
 tion of Suez Canal. 337, 338; leaving. 338; 
 palm-trees, 348, 442; flight of the Holy 
 Family to, 349, 452: the skies of, 396; 
 starving colony removed from Jaffa to, 
 422 ; caravan route from Jerusalem to, 
 444 ; cries of children in, 458 ; ancient 
 caravan route from Damascus to, 471 ; 
 Roman road from Damascus to, 479; a 
 rival of Greece in the manufacture of antiq- 
 uities, 516; ruins of, compared with those 
 of Greece, 520 ; antiquities of. in Athens, 
 522; hurried travel in, confusing. 530; 
 leasons for the peculiarities of its arch- 
 itecture. 538. 
 " Egypt and the Holy Land," quoted, 406. 
 Egyptian antiquities, Dr. Grant's collection 
 ot 334. 
 
 Egyptian Mary, Chapel of the, 390. 
 
 Egyptians, belief in the immortality of the 
 soul, 231 ; ignorance of the source of the 
 Nile, 310; colonization of Cyprus, 498; in 
 Constantinople. 547. 
 
 Egyptology. 22c; Dr. Grant's studies in, 334. 
 
 Eighth wonder of the world, the, 33. 
 
 El-Aksa. the Mosque. 381. 
 
 Elba, embarkation of Napoleon for, 138. 
 
 El-Bireh, 430. 
 
 El-Burak, Slohammed's steed, 381. 
 
 Eleanor, Queen, 14. 
 
 Eleazar, leader of fanatics at Jerusalem, 355. 
 
 Electric fish, at Naples, igo. 
 
 Electricitj', alleged emission of, by howling 
 dervishes, 330. 
 
 Elephant and btdl fight, 78. 
 
 Elephantine, the island of, 304-306, 310, 311. 
 
 Eleph.ints' tusks, trade in, 263, 305. 
 
 Eleusis, Bay of, 524. 
 
 Elgin Marbles, the, 521. 
 
 El-Haram, Temple, translation of Mohammed 
 to Jerusalem from, 378. 
 
 Eli. residence of, 434. 
 
 Eliezer of Damascus, 480. 
 
Index. 
 
 587 
 
 Elijah, alleged prayiii^-spot of, 381; smiting 
 the waters, 410; at Damascus, 480. 
 
 Elim, the Israelites' rest at, 4y2. 
 
 Elimelech, Turkish views on Ruth's connec- 
 tion with, 562. 
 
 Eliot, George, on the vanity of doctors of 
 divinity, 439. 
 
 Eliot, Gen., monument to, at Gibraltar, iii. 
 
 Elisha, passage over Jordan, 410; interview 
 with Naaman, 413, 480; fate of children who 
 mocked, 430; re^idence at Dothan, 441; 
 Benhadad's attempt to capture, 441 ; tomb, 
 441 ; raises the child of the Shunammite 
 woman, 443 ; at Damascus, 480. 
 
 Elocution, study of, in Cairo, 326. 
 
 Eloquence, influence of Florence on, 167. 
 
 Elton. Lake, relative saltness of, 409. 
 
 Emerson, Ralph Waldo, autograph of, at 
 Thebes, 300. 
 
 Emmaus, reputed sites of, 349, 351. 
 
 Encyclopedic City, the, 186. 
 
 Endor, the site of, 445, 446; the Witch of, 
 446; mountain of, 455. 
 
 Eneas, healed by Peter at Lydda, 347. 
 
 Engedi, the wilderness of, 405. 
 
 Engineering, feats of, 13,133, 135, 192,345; 
 study of, in Egypt, 240. 
 
 England, pastoral scenes of, i ; consumption 
 of Bordeaux wines, 2 ; refuge of Spanish 
 political offenders, 25 ; interests in Morocco, 
 100; her long arm, 100; woild-wide power, 
 103, 115, 116; value of Gibraltar to, 114, 115 ; 
 naval action at Navarino, 205: gift to, and 
 removal to. of Cleop.atra's Xeedle, 20S : 
 statue of Rameses II presented to, 244; 
 war in the Soudan, 263 ; interest in the .Suez 
 Canal, 336, 337 ; saving in distance to Bom- 
 bay from, by the Suez Canal, 338 ; sup- 
 ports Protestant bishopric at Jerusalem, 
 421; possession of Cyprus, 498 ; represented 
 on Mars' Hill, 521. 
 
 English, at Gibraltar, 113: in Smyrna, 506; 
 in Constantinople, 547 ; at Robert College, 
 
 555- , 
 
 English architecture, in. 
 
 English Hospital at Jaffa, 343. 
 
 English language, changes in the, 530. 
 
 Englishman, a disputatious, 266. 
 
 Engravers, employment of, at Thebes, 276. 
 
 " Enterprise," the, 104. 
 
 Ephesians, the Epistle to the, 514. 
 
 Ephesus, 503; compared with Athens, 509; 
 a cradle of mythology, 505; distance from 
 Smyrna, 509; compared with Jerusalem, 
 509 ; importance and history of, 509-514 ; an 
 authority on the ancient history of, 510; 
 climate, 510; temples of, 510-512; practice 
 of magic in, 512; reputed presence of John 
 the Baptist at, 512; the riot in, 512, 513 ; 
 Paul at. 512-514 ; a famous trade in, 513; 
 the first bishop of, 513 ; St. John's residence 
 in, 513 ; the legend of the Seven Sleepers, 
 513; the town-clerk of, 513; Virgin Mary's 
 residence in, 513; the church at, 513, 514; 
 influence on St. Paul's mind, 514; contri- 
 butions to Santa Sophia, 540. 
 
 Ephraim, t!ie mother of, 219 ; unsuccessful 
 against the Canaanites at Gezer, 348. 
 
 Ephrath, Rachel's journey from Bethel to, 
 
 397- 
 Epitaphs, in the Nation.al Museum, Naples, 
 
 i8g. 
 Epochs, Mohammed's calendar of, 381. 
 Erastus, sent into Macedonia, 513. 
 
 Escorial, the, 30-34; beggars in, 33; com- 
 pared with the mosque at Cordova, 40; 
 built by Philip 1 1, 72. 
 
 Esdraelon, the plain of, 441, 442 ; expulsion of 
 the Bedouins from, 442; as a honey-field, 444. 
 
 Esneh, 316. 
 
 Esquiline Hill, 177. 
 
 Esther, 91. 
 
 Eternal City, the, 174. 
 
 Eternity, a type of, 113, 226. 
 
 Ethiopia, alleged course of the Nile through, 
 310; a former king of, 321; conquest of 
 ligypt by, 32i._ 
 
 Ethiopians, omnivorous character of, 261. 
 
 Etiquette, in Morocco, 99; Italian love for, 
 200; Turkish, 560-563. 
 
 Etruscan Museum, Florence, 169. 
 
 Etruscan ruins, 171. 
 
 Etruscans, iiitluence of, on civilization, i6g. 
 
 Eucalyptus, anti-inalarial effect of, 65; culti- 
 vation of, 121, 139. 
 
 Euclid, figure of, in Florence cathedral, 170. 
 
 Eugenie, Empress, fondness for Biarritz, 9; 
 at opening of Suez Canal, 215. 
 
 Eunuchs, in Constantinople, 561, 562. 
 
 Euphrates, River, highway of Indian com- 
 merce, 158; Abraham's boundary, 241. 
 
 Euripides, statue of, in Napl";s, 189 ; works 
 of, 320. 
 
 Euroclydon, 206. 
 
 Europa Point, no, in, 115. 
 
 Europe, the eye of, 100; relations of Gibral- 
 tar to, 104; the olaest monarchy in, 140; 
 fresco of, at Milan, 154 ; Mohammed.inism 
 unsuccessful against, 325; emigration of 
 Jews to Tiberias from, 465 : the most inter- 
 esting country of, 515; Castle of, 532; 
 boundary between Asia and, 535; the 
 Sweet Waters of, 561. 
 
 European Poplar, the village of the, 548. 
 
 Euscana, the Basque language, 12. 
 
 Euthymius, St., founder of the convent of 
 Mar Saba, 403. 
 
 '\utropius, mission of, to Lycopolis, 264. 
 
 Eutychians, the, 331. 
 
 Euxine, the, 535; Byron on the, 548. 
 
 Evangelical Church of Italy, proposed, 204. 
 
 Eve, the creation of, 169. 
 
 Everlasting Life, origin of the symbol of the 
 waters of, 455. 
 
 Excitability, Italian characteristic, 200, 201. 
 
 E.xchisiveness, St. Peter warned against, 343. 
 
 Exodus, the, 282. 
 
 Exposition, at Paris, the, 573. 
 
 Extortion, in Morocco, 98. 
 
 Ezbekiyeh. the, 212. 
 
 Ezekiel, on the prosperity of Damascus, 480. 
 
 Ezra, records the rebuilding of the 1 einple, 
 342- 
 
 Faith, an example of, 458 ; a curious mixture 
 of works and, 492. 
 
 Faith-cure, in Algiers, 125 ; in a Jerusalem 
 colony. 425 ; a Bedouin case, 492. 
 
 False Pyramid, the, 250. 
 
 Family scandals, how avoided in Morocco, 
 98, 99. 
 
 Fanaticism, among Mohammedans, 99, 488 ; 
 in Egypt, 326 ; a mixture of formalism and, 
 330; among Jews of Jerusalem, 418; a 
 dangerous spirit of, 425 ; in Damascus, 488. 
 
 Fanatics, revolt of the, 355. 
 
 Fans, ancient Egyptian, 321. 
 
 Farm Village, the, 548. 
 
5SS 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Farshoot, sheep and dogs at, 266. I 
 
 Fasts, incredible stories of, 413; among 
 Abyssinian Christians, 420, 421. 
 
 Fatalism, in Italy, 200; Mohammedan, 323, 
 325 ; in trade, 484. 
 
 Father Abraham, 27S. 
 
 Father of History, the, 2ig, 221. 
 
 Father Tiber, 177. 
 
 Fatimites. Hakem, Caliph of the, 477. 
 
 Fayoiim, the, 274. 
 
 Fayum, I'resbyierian mission in, 332. 
 
 Feathers, trade in, at Asyoot, 263. 
 
 Fellaheen, the. 274, 287. 
 
 Ferdinand and Isabella, relic of, 20; resi- 
 dence in the Alhambra, 56 ; effigies and 
 sepulchers of, 61. 62. 
 
 Ferdinand of .A.ragon, marriage of, 55. 
 
 Feriiinand I, plot to steal the Holy Sepul- 
 cher, 172. 
 
 Ferguson, Adam, describes the seizure of the 
 Christian church in Damascus, 484, 487 ; 
 on the nici^que of Santa Sophia, 543. 
 
 Fevers, of Cyprus, the, 497, 498. 
 
 Fez, Morocco, 55, 93, 94. 
 
 Fez. the Turkish, 483 ; the Greek, 528. 
 
 Fiction, Italian fondness for. 202. 
 
 Field, David D., traveling in Egypt, 316. 
 
 Field of Blood, supposed site of the. 361. 
 
 Fiesole, 171 ; construction of the road to, 172. 
 
 Fig-culture, in Palestine. 350; in Samaria, 
 442 ; in Asia Minor, 509. 
 
 Figs, of Mar Saba, 404 ; Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Fig Spring, 471. 
 
 Fig-trees, at Jerusalem, 361, 366 ; at Bethany, 
 414; at Shechem, 436 ; in Nazareth, 453. 
 
 Fig Village, the. 548. 
 
 Fillmore, Millard, visit to Gibraltar, 105. 
 
 Filth, a center of, 256 ; among Jews of Jeru- 
 salem, 418. 
 
 Finding of the Cross, Chapel of the, 394. 
 
 Firs, Solomon's purchase of, 342. 
 
 First Cataract of the Nile, the, scarcity of 
 crocodiles below, 273 ; the trip to the, 304, 
 306, 309-312 ; dangers of the, 311. 
 
 Fish, of the Nile. 2^0 ; in the Dead Sea, 409 ; 
 in the Sea of Galilee. 468. 
 
 Fishermen on the Nile. 250. 
 
 Fishes, the miraculous draught of, 468. 
 
 Five thousand, miracle of feeding the, 461. 
 
 '• Flawless Lyric," the. 314. 
 
 Flemish school of painting. 23. 
 
 Fliedner, Rev. Fritz, Lutheran minister in 
 .Madrid, 28. 
 
 Florence, 167-173, 275 ; famous artists and 
 scientists, 167; situation, 168; cathedral, 
 169, 170 ; church of Santa Croce, 170 ; gal- 
 leries and palaces, 171 ; facilities for study 
 of art, 173. 
 
 Florida, the alligator and crocodile in, 273. 
 
 Floyd, Rollo. survivor of American colony in 
 Palestine, 422. 
 
 Flute, use of the, by howling dervishes, 329. 
 
 Folkestone, i. 
 
 Fonqueville, on the approach to Constanti- 
 nople. 532. 
 
 Foot, a much-kissed, 182 ; oriental custom of 
 kissing the, 218. 
 
 Ford, Richard, residence in, and description 
 of. the .Alhambra, 57. 
 
 Forest of m,agnificent columns, a, 279. 
 
 Forest of Philosophers, the. 507. 
 
 Forests, improvident waste of, 19 ; effect of 
 destruction of, 177. 
 
 Forge of Vulcan, the, 194. 
 
 Forinalism, a mi.vture of fanaticism and, 330. 
 
 " Former rain, the," 429. 
 
 Fort Pharos. 207. 
 
 Forty-days' fast, the scene of Christ's, 413. 
 
 Forum, the, grandeur of, 178. 
 
 Fossils, at Gibraltar, 109. 
 
 Foucauld, Dr., explorer of Morocco, 97. 
 
 Foundling asylums in Spain, 69. 
 
 Foundling Hospitals, necessity of, urged by 
 San Juan'de Dios. 58. 
 
 Fountain, at the tomb of Dorcas, 345, 346; cf 
 CJideon, 443; of the Virgin, 361, ^62. 
 
 Fourth New York Cavalry, Gen. Di Cesnola's 
 service in the, 499. 
 
 Fowler, Rev. liishop Charles H., in Cairo. 335. 
 
 France, an anniversary in, 1 ; the coup d'etat 
 in, 2 ; aid to the United States, 2, 3 ; scen- 
 ery of, 3 ; boundary between Spain and, 9 ; 
 ravaged by the Vandals, 52 ; claim on 
 throne of Spain, 110; efforts to capture 
 Gibraltar. 110; conquers .Algeria, 128, 133; 
 boundary between .Sardinia and, 139; naval 
 action at Navarino, 205 ; interest in the Suez 
 Canal, 336 ; manufacture of spurious coins 
 and gems in, 516. 
 
 Franciscan monks, monasterj' at Ramleh, 
 348 ; control the site of Gethsemane, 362 ; 
 monastery in Jerusalem, 421. 
 
 Franconia Notch, the Old Man of the Moun- 
 tain in, compared with the Sphinx, 235. 
 
 Franklin, Benjamin, mission to France, 2, 3. 
 
 Franks, expelled from Palestine, 487. 
 
 Frank Street, Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Franz Josef, the emperor, 573. 
 
 Fraudulent antiquities, trade in, 516, 519. 
 
 Free Church, work in Italy, 204. 
 
 Freedom of the press, in Italy', 202. 
 
 Freethinkers, in Italy, 202. 
 
 French, destruction of part of the .Alhambra, 
 56; in Algeria. 120; war with the Kabyles, 
 133; compared with Italians, 200; in 
 Egypt. 332; evacuation of Egypt, 336; 
 roadbuilding of the, 133, 401 ; occupation of 
 Damascus, 491 ; defeat of Abd-el-Kader- 
 491 ; in Smyrna, 506 ; in Constantinople, 
 538. 547 ; at'Robert College, 555. 
 
 French school of painting.' 23. 
 
 Frescoes of Pompeii, 196-198. 
 
 Friars, in Constantinople, 547. 
 
 Frugality, taught by Mdhammed, 323. 
 
 Fruits, immense, in Jaffa. 344. 
 
 Funeral customs, on the Nile, 251, 252; 
 among Mohammedans, 434. 
 
 Funerals, in Genoa, 145. 146; in Egypt. 208, 
 211 ; barbarities at Abyssinian, 421. 
 
 Gabriel, his office at the last judgment, 362; 
 stops the devil from stealing the golden 
 nails, 381 ; deters the Holy Rock from fol- 
 lowing Mohammed to heaven. 3S1 ; thecol- 
 umn of, 454 ; Mohammedan archangel, 543. 
 
 Galata, 536; the bridge to, 544, 547; signifi- 
 cance of the name. 548. 
 
 Galilee, boundary between Samaria and, 441 ; 
 a favored city of, 452; mountains of, 461 ; 
 the chief city of. 465. 
 
 Galileo, statue at Milan. 154; at Venice, 167; 
 mementoes in Florence. 167 ; tomb of, 170; 
 relics of. 172 ; visit of Milton to, 172. 
 
 Galileo's Tower. 172. 
 
 Galls, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Gambetta, grave of, 139. 
 
 Gambling, at .Monte Carlo, 140-142 ; a Scotch 
 minister's experience, 141. 
 
Index. 
 
 589 
 
 Gami-el-Azhar, Mosque of, 325. 
 
 Garden of Gethseiiiane. See Gethsemane. 
 
 " Garden of the Lord," a, 410. 
 
 Garibaldi, Giuseppe, 146; entry into Naples, 
 
 1Q2. 
 
 Gastronomical paradise, a. 43. 
 
 Gates, of Hebron, 373 ; of Herod, 374 ; of the 
 
 Columns. 373. 374 ; of the Kings, 2SS-2g2 ; 
 
 of the Prophet David. 374 ; of the Tribes, 
 
 374; of the Western Africans, 374; St. 
 
 Stephen's, 374, 382, 414; the Jaffa, 352, 
 
 373- 
 
 Gath, view of, from Tower pf Ramleh, 347. 
 
 Gaudo, lighthouse at, 206. 
 
 Gauls, threatened attack on Rome, 560. 
 
 Gautier, Theophile, on the approach to Con- 
 stantinople, 535. 
 
 Gavazzi. Alessandro, death of, 204. 
 
 Gave, valley of the, 8. 
 
 Gebel-Aboofayda, 261. 
 
 Gebel et Tayr, 251. 
 
 Geese, on the Nile, 250. 
 
 Gehenna, 361. 
 
 Gems, from Pompeii, 197; Egyptian, 320, 
 321 ; trade in spurious, in Athens, 516; col- 
 lections of, at Constantinople, 540, 557. 
 
 Generalife, the, 58. 
 
 " Genesis," the book of, mention of the Nile, 
 241 ; confirmed, 282 ; authenticity of, 397 ; 
 quoted, 397, 480. 
 
 Geneva, scene of Calvin's work, 8. 
 
 Geneva, Lake, compared with the Sea of 
 Galilee, 462. 
 
 Gennesaret, Lake of. See Se.\ of G.alilee. 
 
 Genoa, 143-146; share in Columbus's glory, 
 143; dispute between the Viiurii and, 144. 
 
 Geography, allegorical figure on Columbus's 
 statue, 143. 
 
 Geology, of Gibraltar, 109 ; fine point in, 305. 
 
 George 1, disregard for Gibraltar, 110. 
 
 George, St., tomb of, 489; chapel of, on 
 Lykabettos, 522. 
 
 Georgia, the white slaves of, 561. 
 
 Georgians, ownership of the Stone of Anoint- 
 ing, 390; in Constantinople, 547. 
 
 " Georgics," composition of the, 192. 
 
 Gerizim, 435. 
 
 Gerizim, IMount, 435-437 ; Samaritan pilgrim- 
 ages to, 440. 
 
 German, a disputatious, 266. 
 
 German Jews, appellation of, 465. 
 
 German orphanages in Jerusalem, 422. 
 
 German school of painting, 23. 
 
 German Temple, the sect of the, 422. 
 
 Germans, occupation of Naples, 191; in 
 Constantinople, 538, 547 ; at Robert Col- 
 lege, 555. 
 
 Germany, in alliance against Spain, no; cor- 
 onation of emperors of, 154 ; Damascus 
 steel from, 483 ; mission work in Syria, 496. 
 
 Geronimo. tomlj of, 122. 
 
 Gesticulations of Italians, 200, 201. 
 
 Gethsemane, disputed church of, 365 ; Garden 
 of, 362, 365. 370, 382 ; picture of the St. 
 Veronica miracle in the, 386. 
 
 Gezer, ruins of, 348. 
 
 Gezireh, palace of, 215. 
 
 Giant's Grave, the, 548. 
 
 Giant's .Mountain, 548. 
 
 Giants, a city of, 275. 
 
 Gibbon, Edward, description of Seville, 49. 
 
 Gibeah, 370, 429. 
 
 Gibeon, the miracle of the sun's standing on, 
 34S, 349 ; the plain of, 350. 
 
 Gibraltar, landing of Taric near, 51; ; the eye 
 of Europe, 100; position, scenery, impor- 
 tance, commerce, history, etc., 103-116; 
 compared with the North Cape, 112, 113; 
 the sunset gun at, 116; departure from, 
 116; the Libyan Alountains compared to, 
 293 ; Patmos likened to, 502. 
 
 Gibraltar, Bay of, in. 
 
 (jibr.dtar, Rock of, 81. 
 
 Gibraltar,, Straits of, 81, 103, 112, 114. 
 
 Giddiness, cause of, 226 ; in ascent of the 
 (Ireat Pyramid, 237. 
 
 Gideon, the Fountain of, 443 ; overthrow of 
 the Midianites by, 444. 
 
 Gift of the Nile, the, 238. 
 
 Gihon, Pool of, 358, 361, 417; valley of, 358, 
 361, 396. 
 
 Gdboa, mountain of, 446. 
 
 Gilead, mountains of, 370, 436. 
 
 Gilgal, site of, 413. 
 
 Gilman, Henry, U. S. consul at Jerusalem, 
 242 ; opinion of the Tower of David, 417. 
 
 Giotto, painter, 167 ; architect of Florence 
 cathedral, 169; bust of, 169. 
 
 Gizeh, discovery of Sphinxes at, 248. 
 
 Gladiatorial combats, Titus's, at Banias. 474. 
 
 Gladstone, W. E., on Dante, 167 ; popularity 
 in Italy, 187 ; fondness for Naples, 187 ; on 
 the Italian nation, 201. 
 
 Glasses, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Gloria in Excelsis, the church of, 400. 
 
 Goats, in Palestine, 350. 
 
 Gobat, Dr., bishop of Jerusalem, 421, 451. 
 
 God, Mohammed's idea of, 323 ; the great and 
 unspeakable name of, 381; the Unity of, 550. 
 
 Goddess of Beauty, the Egyptian, 267. 
 
 Gog, battle with .^Iagog, 442. 
 
 Gold, trade in, in the Soudan, 90 ; use of, in 
 Egypt, 321. 
 
 " Golden Book," the, 172. 
 
 Golden calf, Jeroboam's, at Bethel, 430. 
 
 Golden Fleece, scene of Jason's voyage for 
 the, 548. 
 
 Golden Gate, the, 374. 
 
 Golden Horn, the, 535, 536, 539 ; an excursion 
 on, 549 ; magnificent prospects of, 557. 
 
 Golden nails, Mohammed's, 381. 
 
 Golgotha, the disputed site of, 386, 389. 
 
 Gomorrah, popular beliefs concerning the de- 
 struction of, 405, 410. 
 
 Gondolas, Venetian, 158, 161. 
 
 Good Samaritan, traditional scene of the par- 
 able of the, 414. 
 
 Goornah, Temple of, 284. 
 
 Gordon, Dr., James M., Treasurer of the 
 .American Board of P'oreign Mission.s, 11. 
 
 Gordon, Gen. C. G., killed at Khartoom, 238. 
 
 Gortchakof, Prince, 25. 
 
 Gospels, Coptic preservation of the, 331 ; as a 
 guide-book on the shores of Galilee, 471. 
 
 " Gothic Architecture in Spain," 35. 
 
 Goths, influence on Toledo, 34 ; capture Cor- 
 dova, 36 ; occupation of Seville, 43 ; admix- 
 ture in Spanish population, 66 ; occupation 
 of Naples, 191. 
 
 Grace, a triumph of, 466. 
 
 Grace after meat, in Egypt, 301. 
 
 Graces, .Asylum of the Muses and, 507. 
 
 Grammar, teaching the, in Egypt, 326. 
 
 Granada, approaches to, 50, 51 ; conquest of, 
 55 ; restriction of the Moors to, 55; objects 
 of interest, 5S ; scener)' around, 58 ; beggars 
 in, 61 ; picturesqueness, 112. 
 
 Grand Canal, Venice, 161, i66. 
 
59° 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Grand Circus, Rome, 178. 
 
 tiriiiiile, di>tingiiisliecl from syenite, 306. 
 
 Grant, Dr. J. S., chief physician in Cairo, 
 318; the helpful acquaintance of, 334 ; a 
 rectplion at the house of, 334. 
 
 Grant. Ucn. U. S., visit to Gibraltar, 105; 
 opinion of Egypt, 207 ; on the Baltic, 236. 
 
 Great Agora, the, 510. 
 
 Great American Combination Baseball Club, 
 the, 228. 
 
 Great Hear, Egyptian aspect of, 315. 
 
 Great liritain, capture nf Gibraltar by, no; 
 area and population of Kuropean depend- 
 encies, 115; abolishes slavery in Algiers, 
 128; entertainment by her consul at 'i'hebes, 
 300.301; occupation of Egypt, 305 ; mission 
 wor c in Syria. 495 ; possession of Cyprus, 
 4j8. See also England. 
 
 Grj.it .Mosque of Damascus, the, 484. 
 
 Great Pyramid (see also Cheoi'S, 1'yr.\mid 
 of), 222, 225-231, 236; the scene from, 479. 
 
 Great St. Bernard, view of, from .Milan cathe- 
 dral, 153. 
 
 Great Salt Lake, the waters of, 406. 
 
 Great Temple at Karnak, 280 ; the avenue to 
 the, 232. 
 
 Grecian history, a living form, 523. 
 
 Grecian mythofogy, compared with Egyptian, 
 
 „ 320- 
 
 Greece, influence in Seville, 43 ; Venetian 
 conquest of part of, 158 ; art of, 167 ; the 
 coast, 205,206; independence, 206 ; statues 
 of philosophers of, 248 ; memories of an- 
 cient, 503 ; the interest of, 515 ; war of in- 
 dependence, 516; a rival of Egypt in the 
 manufacture of antiquities, 516 ; palace of 
 the king, 519; ruins of, compared with those 
 of Egypt, 520 ; e.vplorations in, 522 ; wars 
 with Persia, 527 ; treating in, 529 ; children 
 of, 529; language, 530 ; desirability of travel 
 in, 530 ; secret of her ancient glory, 530 ; 
 climate, 531 ; Armenian churches in, 549. 
 
 Greek alphabet, an addition of four letters 
 to the, 500. 
 
 Greek .Archipelago, captured by Venice, 158. 
 
 Greek architecture, compared with INIoorish, 
 
 51- 
 
 Greek art, an older than, 264. 
 
 Greek Church, the, miracles in, 8 ; services 
 of, 331, 519 ; in Egypt. 332, 333; compared 
 with the Roman Catholic Church, 333 ; 
 relations of Russian National Church with, 
 34S ; claim regarding CJethsemane, 365 ; 
 claim the oldest Christian church in the 
 world, 365 ; at the Holy Sepulcher, 390; 
 ownership of the Stone of Anointing, 390; 
 chapel of St. Longinus, 394 ; worship in 
 the Angel's Chapel and Chapel of the Sep- 
 ulcher. 394; convent at Bethlehem, 398; 
 pilgrims of, 413, 531 ; strength in Syria. 419 ; 
 undesirability of its control of Jerusalem, 
 425 ; trouble in, at Nain, 445 ; patriarch of, 
 at Constantinople, 540; ignorance of priests, 
 550 ; jealousy of Protestantism, 555. 
 
 Greek civilization, lights on ancient, 189. 
 
 Greek fire, used at siege of Constantinople, 
 536- 
 
 Greek monks, interest in the island of Pat- 
 mos, 502. 
 
 Greek newspapers. 516. 
 
 Greeks, admi.xture in Spanish population, 66; 
 in Gibraltar, 107. 113 ; occupation of Naples, 
 191 ; battle-fields of, in Egypt, '288 ; igno- 
 rance of source of the Nile, 310 ; in Presby- 
 
 terian mission schools of Egypt, 332 ; at 
 Miss Mangan's miNsion at Jatifa, 343 ; in 
 Nazareth. 453 ; employment of artists in 
 decorating Great .Mosque at iJamascus, 
 487 ; colonization of Cyprus, 498 ; nav I 
 history, 503; in Smyrna, 506, 507 ; claim 
 St. John's tomb, 513 ; independence, 528 ; 
 character, 528-530 ; comniercial morahty, 
 529 ; influence of scenery on, 531 ; in Con- 
 stantinople, 547; commercial superiority 
 of -Vrmenians over, 549 ; at Robert Col- 
 lege. 554. 
 
 Greeley, Horace, famous tide of, 236. 
 
 Gregory the Great, method of checking the 
 plague, 185. 
 
 Grenfell, Maj.-Gen. Sir Francis, on Dr. Pe- 
 trie, 335. 
 
 Grief, the Way of, 382, 385, 386. 
 
 Grimaldi. the house of, 140. 
 
 Grotte de la Vierge, 7. 
 
 Grotte de .Massavielle, 7. 
 
 Grotto of the Seven Sleepers, the, 513. 
 
 Grotto of the Shepherds, the, 400. 
 
 Guadalquiver, River, 77. 
 
 Guadarrama .Mountains, the, 30. 
 
 Guardias Civiles, 70. 
 
 Guide, an invaluable, 215. 
 
 Guides, tricks of, 346. 
 
 Guipuzcoa, province of, 11. 
 
 Gulick. Rev. William H., our guide at San 
 Sebastian, 11. 
 
 Gum-arabic, trade in, at .A.syoot, 263. 
 
 Gums, trade in, at Assouan, 305. 
 
 Gun, a venerable, 400. 
 
 Guy de Lusignan. captured by Saladin. 487. 
 
 Gymnasium, of Ephesus, the, 510. 
 
 Gymnast, a wonderful, 301. 
 
 Gypsies, near Granada, 61 ; around .Smyrna, 
 506. 
 
 "Hadji!" 458. 
 
 Hadrian, Emperor, birthplace. 49 ; the Os- 
 tentatious, 177; the statue of Memiion and, 
 298; rebuilds Jerusalem, 356; .Arch of the 
 time of, in Jerusalem. 385 ; Arch of, in 
 Athens. 519 ; the city of, 519 ; completer, 
 the Olympieum, 519; a delayed project 01 
 the time of, 524. 
 
 Hagar s-Salam, 250. 
 
 Haifa, the harbor of, 341. 
 
 Hair-brushing by machinery in Wolsey's pal 
 ace, 165. 
 
 Hairpins, ancient Egj'ptian, 321. 
 
 Hakem. founder of the Druses, 477. 
 
 Halicarnassus, 503. 
 
 Hall of Ambassadors, l\!adrid, 20 ; Alham- 
 bra, 52. 
 
 Hall of Columns, at Esneh, 316. 
 
 Hall of the Obelisks, Karnak, 280. 
 
 Hamburg, the stock-exchange of, 2ir. 
 
 Hamlin, Dr.Cyrus, opens Robert College, 554. 
 
 Hamor, governor of Shechem, 438. 
 
 Hand and the key. the, 52. 
 
 Handkerchief, miracle of St. Veronicn's. 386. 
 
 Hannah, scene of her visits to Samuel, 434. 
 
 Hannibal, 509. 
 
 Hapsburg, the house of. 573. 
 
 Haram, Mohammedan burials on the, 362. 
 
 Haram, the Temple E1-, translation of Mo- 
 hammed to Jerusalem from, 378. 
 
 Haram Esh-Sherif, the, 377, 381, 382. 
 
 Harems. Turkish, 561. 
 
 Harman, Prof Henry M., on swimming in the 
 Dead Sea, 406, 409. 
 
Index. 
 
 591 
 
 Haroun-al-Raschid, reminders of the days of, 
 334 ; a modern, 565, 566. 
 
 Harper tomb, the, 2^2. 
 
 Harpists, representation of, in Egyptian 
 tomb, 292. 
 
 Harris, Walter, perils at Sheshouan, 97. 
 
 Hashbanny River, the, 475. 
 
 Hasheesh, its use in Tangier, 93 ; in Egypt, 
 218 ; as a factor in insanity, 218. 
 
 " Hashshasheen," meaning of the word, 218. 
 
 Hassan, Mosque of Sultan, 213, 216. 
 
 Hatasou, the obelisk, 280. 
 
 Hathor, worship of, 267. 
 
 Hattin, Horns of, 461. 
 
 Hauran, mountains of, 449 ; Druse settle- 
 ments in, 478. 
 
 Hautes-Pyrenees, scenery of, 3. 
 
 Hawk, sacred emblem of the sun, 268. 
 
 Hawthorns, on the i\Iount of Olives, 366. 
 
 Hazel-nut village, the. 548. 
 
 Hazor, the king of, overthrown by Joshua, 472. 
 
 Headbands, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Health, effect of forests on, 19. 
 
 Heat, sufferings from, 265, 294, 303, 316-318, 
 366, 405, 414, 479; tempered by absence of 
 humidity 265 ; in the valley of the Dead 
 Sea, 409 ; in Palestine, 431. See also Cli- 
 mate. 
 
 Heathenism, Mohammed's hatred of, 323. 
 
 Heaven, the quick route to, 381. 
 
 Heavenly Water, the, 5)8. 
 
 Heber. Bishop Reginald, on the rose of Shar- 
 on, 346 ; " Cool Siloan's shady rill," 361. 
 
 Hebrews, the Epistle to the, quoted, 386; a 
 civilization at Banias older than the, 473. 
 See also Israelites ; Jews. 
 
 Hebrew women, Isaiah's description of their 
 costume, 320, 321. 
 
 Hebron, former cauital of the Jews, 355 ; the 
 Gate of, 373. 
 
 Height, the dizziness of, 225, 226. 
 
 Heine, Heinrlch, the '' flawless lyric " of, 314. 
 
 Helbon, the wine of, 480. 
 
 Helena, Empress, pilgrimage and works of, 
 202, 203 ; search f jr the cross, 389 ; discov- 
 ery of the holy manger by, 399 ; founder of 
 monastery at Mount Athos, 532. 
 
 Helicon, 528. 
 
 Heliopolis. removal of Cleopatra's Needles 
 from, 208 ; road from Cairo to, 219 ; ancient 
 glories of, 219; obelisk at, 280, 281 ; contri- 
 bations to Santa Sophia, 540. 
 
 Hell, how to paint a picture of, 92 ; " in the 
 midst of Paradise," 142 ; prototype of, 361 ; 
 tradition concerning, 362. 
 
 Hellenic Greeks, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Hellespont, the, 532. 
 
 Hendaye, 10. 
 
 Henri of Navarre, birthplace of, 8. 
 
 Henry II, of England, 14. 
 
 Herculaneum, remains of, 189, 190, 197 ; de- 
 struction of, 195, 197. 
 
 Heredia, Tomas, the estates of, 64, 65. 
 
 Heredity, among lepers, 426, 427. 
 
 Heresy, early trial for. 347. 
 
 Hermitages, at the site of the Temptation 
 and Fast, 413. 
 
 Hermon, Mount, 435, 449, 453, 461, 462, 471, 
 483, 4^1 ; the ascent of, 472-478 ; scenery 
 around, 472, 473; resemblance of region to 
 Ireland, 473 ; climate, 473; birthplace of the 
 Jordan, 475 ; height above Csesarea Philip- 
 pi, 476 ; supposed scene of the Transfi':;iira- 
 tion, 477 ; the Mont Blanc of Palestine, 478 ; 
 
 compared with Lebanon, 478 ; the cool wa- 
 ters of, 479. 
 
 Hermopolis, 261. 
 
 Hernani, 12. 
 
 Herod, Jerusalem recaptured in time of, 355; 
 Jerusalem in the days of, 356 ; Philip the son 
 of, 473 ; temple erected by, at Banias, 475. 
 
 Herod Aniipas, builder of Tiberias, 465. 
 
 Herod's Gate, 374. 
 
 Herod's temple, ruins of, 377. 
 
 Herodes .Atticus, the Odeum of, 520. 
 
 Herodotus, statue of, in Naples, 189; descrip- 
 tion of Egypt, 206, 207 ; on the use of hash- 
 eesh, 218; a: Heliopolis, 219; on the Pyra- 
 mids, 221 ; on the Nile, 238 ; on the sources 
 of the Nile, 310, 311 ; Scio in the lime of, 503. 
 
 Herons, on the Nile, 250. 
 
 Herostraius, incendiary of the Temple of 
 Diana, 512. 
 
 High Plateaus of Algeria, 120. 
 
 Hill of the Judge, 472. 
 
 Hill of the Muses, the, 528. 
 
 Hinnom, the valley of, 356, 361, 370. 
 
 Hippocr.ates, the birthplace of, 500. 
 
 Hippodrome of Constantinople, 560. 
 
 Hippopotamus hide, Egyptian whip of, 257. 
 
 Hiram, King of Tyre, navy of, 108; Solo- 
 mon's transactions with, 342. 
 
 Hirschberg, Prof., fellow-traveler on the Nile, 
 241 ; study of ophthalmia, 265. 
 
 Historic associations, influence of, 192. 
 
 History, the cradle of, 206 ; the Father of, 
 2ig, 221 ; secret of the importance of, 503. 
 
 Hivites, former owners of Shechem, 438. 
 
 Hobah, Abram's pursuit of the kings to, 489. 
 
 Hobib, the eccentric, 450-452. 
 
 Hog, utility and patriotism of the, 13. 
 
 Hogge, Dr., 265. 
 
 Hogs, Servian trade in, 571. 
 
 " Hold the Fort," how viewed in Turkey, 565. 
 
 HollaTid, consumption of Bordeaux wines, 2 ; 
 alliance against Spain, no; blackmailed by 
 Algiers, 127 ; inlerevt in the Suez Canal, 336. 
 
 Holy Family, resting-place of the, 219. See 
 al-o JnsyiFH ; M.^RV ; Virgin. 
 
 Holy Land, the scallop-shell sign of a pilgrim- 
 age to, 343 ; Mohammedan capture of, 461. 
 See also Palestine. 
 
 Holy Rock, the, 378, 381 ; attempts to follow 
 Mohammed to heaven, 381. 
 
 Holy Sepulcher, the, Ferdinand I's plot to 
 steal, 172 ; Church of the, 382-394. 
 
 " Home again," 573. 
 
 Homer, bust in National Museum, Naples, 
 189 ; question of his writing-powers, 335 ; 
 alleged b'rthplace, 503, 509. 
 
 Honesty, Coptic, 331 ; Greek, 529. 
 
 Hong-Kong, saving in distance from London 
 to, via Suez Canal, 338. 
 
 " Hoo," the word, 330. 
 
 Hood, Thomas, on silence, 311. 
 
 Hoods, ancient Egj'ptian, 320. 
 
 Hooker, Sir Joseph, travels in Morocco, 97. 
 
 Horizon, the type of eternity, 226. 
 
 Horn, use of the, by howling dervishes, 329. 
 
 Horn of Abundance, the, 536. 
 
 Horns of Hattin, 461. 
 
 Horse, an unthinking, 396; a peculiar, 510; 
 tomb of a favorite, 556. 
 
 Horse-marl:et at Damascus, ^83. 
 
 Horses, Jerusalem, 395, 3C)6 ; trading, 36; 
 poor quality of, in Palestine, 461 ; Arabian 
 and Kentucky compared, 48^ ; of Asia 
 Minor, 510; of Eastern Roumelia, 567. 
 
592 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Horliciiltiiral gardens at Malaga, 65. 
 
 Hosaniia, 3(19. 
 
 Host-a, prophecy regarding Samaria, 440. 
 
 Hospitality, Scotch, 130; taught by INloham- 
 iiicd, 323 ; Turkish, 560, 561. 
 
 Hospitals : Seville, 44 ; Kaiserswerth, in Jeru- 
 salem, 422 ; for lepers, 426 ; Saladin's build- 
 ing of, 487. 
 
 HStel d'Etrangers, Athens, 516. 
 
 Hotels, in Athens, 516. 
 
 House-moving, miraculous, 454. 
 
 House of Poverty, the, 414. 
 
 " Howadji ! " 458. 
 
 Hovvara dogs, 266. 
 
 Howe, Fisher, on the site of Golgotha, 389. 
 
 Hovvclls, \V. 1)., on the Bridge of Sighs, 165. 
 
 Howling dervishes, the, 326-330 ; contrasted 
 with the spinning dervishes, 553. 
 
 Howson, Rev. J. S., quoted, 490. 
 
 Hudson River, analogy between the Jordan 
 and the, 474. 
 
 Huclgas, Las, convent of, 14. 
 
 Huleh, Lake, region of, 472. 
 
 Human life, the sun tlie symbol of, 226 ; visit 
 to the Pyramids a type of, 237. 
 
 Human nature, a study in, 418 ; a peculiar 
 specimen of, 445; the marvelous suscepti- 
 bilities of, 488. 
 
 Human progress, 73, 113. 
 
 Humboldt, F. H. A., on the Nile, 239. 
 
 Humidity, absence of, in Egypt, 265, 293. 
 
 Hungarian Fund, the. 572. 
 
 Hungarian Jews, appellation of, 465. 
 
 Hungary, the capital of, 571-573. 
 
 '"Hydaspes," the, 205. 
 
 Hyenas, in the Atlas Mountains, 135 ; at 
 Tiberias, 471. 
 
 Hypocrite, a, 142. 
 
 Hypostyle Hall, at Karnak, 280; predicted 
 fall of the, 282. 
 
 Iberians, descendants of the, 12. 
 
 Ibn-1-ahmar, additions to the Alhambra, 55. 
 
 Ibrahim Pasha, defeat of, at Navarino, 205. 
 
 Ichneumon, worship of the, 270. 
 
 Idolaters, Mohammed's hatred of, 323. 
 
 Idolatry, Samaritan hatred of, 440. 
 
 If, Chateau d', 138. 
 
 Ignatius, St., martyrdom of , 508. 
 
 Ignorance, in Italy, 202. 
 
 "7 H S," the letters, 172. 
 
 Iliad, the, was it committed to writing? 335. 
 
 Illusions, optical, 222, 405. 
 
 lUyrian Mountains, the, 568. 
 
 Images, manufacture of, .at Bethlehem, 397. 
 
 Imagination, an Italian characteristic, 200. 
 
 Imbat, the, 507. 
 
 Imitation, power of, 154. 
 
 Immaculate Conception, the, 4. 
 
 Immorality of Naples, 187, 190-192. 
 
 Immortality, Mohammedan belief in, 323. 
 
 Immortality of the soul, Egyptian belief in 
 the, 231. 
 
 Imperial City, the, 174. 
 
 Imperial Gate, the, 540. 
 
 Incubators, use of, for ostrich eggs, 220. 
 
 India, Venetian monopoly of commerce from, 
 158 ; commerce of, through Alexandria, 207 ; 
 use of hasheesh in, 218; the buffalo intro- 
 duced into Egypt from, 250; worship of the 
 sacred cow in, 268 ; leprosy in, 427 ; causes 
 of success of missions in, 466 ; Methodist 
 Church in, 496 ; market-places of. 544. 
 
 Indian hemp, smoking, 93 i in Egypt, 218. 
 
 Indian Ocean, intercourse with Egypt ol 
 countries of, 276. 
 
 Indolence, produced by climate, 71. 
 
 Indulgences, 26, 27; granted by Cardinal 
 l.avigerie, 126: ''at reasonable terms," 166. 
 
 Infidelity in Italy, 202. 
 
 Ink-pots, ancient Egyptian, 321. 
 
 " Innocent Abroad,' an, 237. 
 
 Innocents, paintings of massacre of, in Flor- 
 ence, 171. 
 
 Inquisition, the Holy, Columbus's transac- 
 tions with, 46 ; the birthplace of the, 49 ; 
 l^rotestant teachings in the land of, 73 ; 
 meeting-room of the, at Florence, 170. 
 
 Insanity, of height. 154; Mohammedan belief 
 regarding, 216, 217 ; cause of, among Ori- 
 entals, 217, 218 ; hasheesh as a factor in, 
 218 ; eflfect tm the human voice, 329 ; a 
 marvelous cure for, 492. 
 
 Inscriptions, in temple of Ptolemy Philopa- 
 ter, 288. 
 
 Intemperance, in .Spain. 69. 
 
 Interest, Mohammed's prohibition of taking, 
 323. 
 
 International Commission on the Suez Canal, 
 
 336, 
 Intoxicating drink, Mohammed s prohibition 
 
 of> 3=3'. 324- 
 
 Intoxication, among the Copts, 331. See also 
 Drunkenness. 
 
 lo, legend of, 535. 
 
 Ion, birthplace of, 503. 
 
 Ionia, the Museum of, 507. 
 
 Ionian Confederation, the, 503 ; the metropo- 
 lis of the, 509. 
 
 Ionian manners and learning, center of, 503. 
 
 Ionic architecture, 520. 
 
 Ireland, resemblance of region of Hermon to, 
 
 473- ^ , 
 
 Irenseus, St., on St. Polycarp, 508. 
 
 Iron crown, the, 154. 
 
 Iron-mines, at Nemours, 119. 
 
 Irreverence in Malaga cathedral, 63, 64 ; in 
 Italy, 200. 
 
 Irrigation in Milan, 149 ; in Egypt. 209, 221, 
 226, 240, 273, 274, 276, 312 ; in Palestine, 431. 
 
 Irun, 10, 11. 
 
 Irving, 'VVashington, Spanish histories of 10; 
 description of the Alhambra, 50 ; residence 
 in the .A.lhambra, 57. 
 
 Isaac, supposed scene of the attempted sacri- 
 fice of, 377, 390, 436 ; the well-digging cus- 
 toms of, 433. 
 
 Isabella I, a filial tribute from, 13 ; marriage 
 of, 55 ; supports Columbus, 56, 62 ; attitude 
 toward bidliights. 80. 
 
 Isabella II, of Spain, 20. 
 
 Isabella of Portugal, sepulcher of, 13, 14. 
 
 Isaiah, description of costume of Hebrew 
 women, :!2o, 321 ; description of the waters 
 of Shiloah, 361. 
 
 Ischia. island of, 188. 
 
 Ishbiliah, 43. 
 
 Ishmaelites, scene of sale of Joseph to, 441. 
 
 Isis. chapel of, 268 ; worship of, 309 ; the 
 Temple of, Philse, 309. 
 
 Islam, the spiritual chief of, 94 ; memorial 
 custom of, 543 ; victories over Christianity 
 and Judaism, 543 ; meaning of the term, 559. 
 
 Islands, the beauty of, 502. 
 
 Ismailia, 335-337. 
 
 Ismail Pasha, presents Cleopatra's Needle to 
 the United States, 208. 
 
 Ispola, Ispolis, 43. 
 
Index. 
 
 593 
 
 Israel, the national assemblies of, 350. 
 
 Israelites, the, setting up of the twelve stones 
 by, 413 ; Tabor acquired by, 476 ; wars be- 
 tween the Damascenes and the, 480 ; rest 
 at Elim, 4^2. 
 
 Israfel, .Mohammedan archangel, 543. 
 
 Istrian Mountains, view from Campanile, 
 Venice, 166. 
 
 Italian language, its formation, 167. 
 
 Italians, compared with French. 200 ; com- 
 pared with Spaniards, 200 ; characteristics, 
 200-204 ; unbelief among, 202 ; influence of 
 Roman Catholic Church over, 204 ; in 
 Smyrna, 506 ; at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Italy, emigration of Visigoths from, 52 ; em- 
 bassy to Morocco, g7 ; disputed sovereignty 
 of, no; our entry into, 142; its chief sea- 
 port, 145 ; Milan created the capital, 145 ; 
 view from the Great St. Bernard, 153 ; first 
 road to Switzerland from, 157; the Pantheon 
 of modern, 170 ; independence, 186 ; Glad- 
 stone's popularity i»,iS7; open-air life in, 201; 
 improvement in. 201; infidelity, 202; Jews 
 in, 202; freethinkers, 202; ignorance, 202; 
 Protestant work. 203, 204; interest in the 
 Suez Canal, 336; war with .\byssinia, 421; 
 devotion of people to the Virgin's house at 
 Loretto, 454; Sea of Galilee compared to 
 lakes of, 462; Samian colony in, 503; ad- 
 vantages of situation. 530. 
 
 " Itineraire de la Haute-Egypte," 250. 
 
 Ivan the Terrible, 49. 
 
 Ivory, Arab decoration in, 216; trade in, at 
 Asyoot, 263 ; trade in, at Assouan, 305. 
 
 Jabin, overthrown by Joshua, 472. 
 
 Jackals, in the .-Vtlas Mountains, 135 ; mum- 
 mies of, 263 ; howling, 450 ; at Tiberias, 471. 
 
 J.icob, residence of his family in Egypt, 219 ; 
 erects a pillar on Rachel's grave, 397 ; at 
 Bethel, 430; bequeaths his well to Joseph, 
 435 ; Shechem in the time of, 438 ; curses 
 Simeon and Levi, 438 ; an educated Samari- 
 tan, 439. 
 
 Jacob's Well, 435-438 ; Jesus at, 437. 
 
 Jael. scene of the killing of Sisera by, 446. 
 
 Jaffa, arrival at, 341 ; compared with Quebec, 
 341: dangers of the harbor, 341; appear- 
 ance of the city, 341-344 ; terrifying experi- 
 ence at landing, 342 ; the Mildmay Hospital 
 at. 343 ; scallop-shells, 343 ; plague at, 344 ; 
 education. 344; Sunday-school at, 344; 
 stormed by Napoleon, 344 ; immense fruits 
 and vegetables, 344 ; Miss Arnott's school, 
 344 ; distance from Jerusalem, 345 ; distant 
 view of, 350 ; Protestant colony near, 422 ; 
 settlement and s-.ifferings of American col- 
 ony near, 422 ; the "Quaker City " at, 422. 
 
 Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem, 352, 373. 
 
 Jaffa Medical Mission and English Hospital, 
 
 343- 
 James, St., monuments and portraits of, i6g ; 
 
 tomb of, 362 ; sleeping-place of, 365 ; 
 
 Christ's finding of, at Capernaum, 468 ; at 
 
 the Transfiguration, 476. 
 Jameson, Rev. John, Presbyterian minister 
 
 in Madrid. 28. 
 Janizaries, the, history and massacre of, 557, 
 
 558 ; stronghold of, 560, 561. 
 Januarius, St., painting of, :88 ; miracle of 
 
 the blood of, 188, 189. 
 Janus, Noah's great-grandson, 144. 
 Janus, temple of, at Cordova, 39. 
 Janus of Troy, 144. 
 
 Japan, missions in, 335. 
 
 Japho. See Jaffa. 
 
 Jardin des Plantes, .■\lgiers, 121. 
 
 Jason, scene of the voyage of, 548. 
 
 Jealousy, of explorers and travelers, 209 ; a 
 foolish exhibition of, 557. 
 
 Jebus, the city of, 352. 
 
 Jebusites, the, region of, 352 ; Joshua's fail- 
 ure against, 352 ; defeated by David, 352, 
 355 ; founders of the Tower of David, 417. 
 
 Jefferson, Thomas, an Egyptian, 329. 
 
 Jehoshaphat, the valley of, 356, 362. 
 
 Jenin, 441, 442. 
 
 Jeremiah, his prophecies declared fulfilled, 
 247 ; tomb, 373, 386, 389 ; supposed burial 
 of the .^rk of the Covenant by, 381. 
 
 Jericho, jiiurney from the Dead Sea to, 413; 
 journey to Jerusalem from, 413, 414. 
 
 Jeroboam, at Bethel, 430; the doom of, 435 ; 
 scene of his division of the kingdom with 
 Rehoboam, 438 ; site of erection of one of 
 his golden calves, 472. 
 
 Jerome, St., pilgrimage and work of, 399; 
 translation of the Bible by, 399; the 
 Chapel of tlie Tomb of, 399 ; on the burial- 
 place of John the Baptist, 441. 
 
 Jerusalem, compared to Granada, 51; captures 
 and sieges of, 178, 355, 356, 365, 369, 377, 417, 
 487; the Pyramids older than, 228 ; transpor- 
 tation of wood from Lebanon to, 342 ; dis- 
 tance from Jaffa, 345 ; travelers on the 
 road 10,346; the ark brought 10,350 ; King 
 David's capital at, 350; approach to, 351 ; 
 David's love for, 351 ; St. John on the city 
 of, 351 ; Christ's love for, 351 ; St. Paul on, 
 
 351 ; the hills surrounding. 352 ; influence 
 of its situation on its history, 352 ; dimen- 
 sions of, 352 ; a mountain city, 352 ; the 
 Jaffa Gate, 352; Jebusite occupation of, 
 
 352 ; distinguished from Rome, Athens, and 
 Thebes, 355; fortification of, 356; in the 
 days of Herod, 356; not the city of the 
 Bible, 356 ; complete ruin of, 356 ; rebuilt 
 by Hadrian, 356; former population of, 357 ; 
 size of, compared with European cities, 357; 
 an unprepared visitor's e.xperience, 358 ; 
 confused notions about, 358; tombs of pil- 
 grims, 361 ; highest elevation, 366 ; climate, 
 366; distance to the Mount of Olives, 369 ; 
 Christ weeping over, 369 ; from the Mount 
 of Olives, 370; Lieutenant Lynch's im- 
 pressions of, 370 ; the best view of, 370 ; 
 quarries near, 373 ; Mohammedan posses- 
 sion of, 373, 374 ; walls and gates, 373, 374 ; 
 tradition of the second coming of Christ to, 
 374; animosity between Jews and Chris- 
 tians in, 377; feast of the dedication 377; 
 Mohammed's translation from Mecca to, 
 378; the (Mohammedan) holiest place in, 
 378 ; wailing-place of the Jews, 382 ; the 
 second wall of, 3S9 ; visit of Helena to, 389 ; 
 a disappointment at, 395 ; road to Beth- 
 lehem from, 396; compared with Bethlehem, 
 397; salt-supply of, 406 ; height above the 
 ^lediterranean. 406 ; from Jericho to, 413, 
 414 ; return to, 414 ; the citadel, 417 ; the 
 modern city, 418 et seq. ; Russo-CJreek 
 Church, 419; the Patriarch of, 419; Rus- 
 sian pilgrims, 419 ; Copts in, 420 ; Armenian 
 Church in, 420 ; Abj'ssinian Church at, 420 ; 
 Christian indifference toward, 421 ; Roman 
 Catholic Church in, 421 ; Protestant bish- 
 opric, 421. 422; lunatics in, 422; places of 
 amusement, 422 ; German orphanages. 422 ; 
 
594 
 
 TrAVLLS I.\ TllKKli CONTINKNTS. 
 
 society, 422 ; Christ Church, 422 ; scrindal 
 and backhiting, 422 ; I'roicstaiit education 
 in, 422 ; the neiv and the old, 425 ; the im- 
 partial control of the Turks in, 425 ; an 
 eccentric American colony in, 425 ; lepers, 
 426; beggars, 426; departure from, 428, 
 4-29 ; farewell view of, 42^ ; the caravan 
 route to F.gypt from, 444 ; effect on Tiberias 
 of the ilestruction of, 465 ; Titus's celebra- 
 tion of his success at, 474 ; the King (yf, 4R7 ; 
 meeting with Father Stephanos at, 497 ; 
 St. Paul's journey from Casarea to, 498 ; 
 expulsion of Knights of St. John from, 500 ; 
 compared with Kphesus, 509 ; Paul leaves 
 Ephcsus for, 512 ; tomb of .St. John, 513 ; 
 mosques, 540 ; Armenian churches in, 549. 
 See also Gates. 
 
 Jesse, Samuel's mission to the sons of, 397, 398. 
 
 Jesuits, mission work in Syria, 496. 
 
 Jesus. See CHRisr. 
 
 "Jesus loves me," 444, 445. 
 
 Jew, legend of a, 14 ; odium of the name, 560. 
 
 Jewelry, Egyptian, 320, 321. 
 
 Jewels, historic, 62. See also Gems. 
 
 Jewish history, a living form, 523. 
 
 Jews, influence on Toledo, 34 ; flight from 
 Seville, 43 ; in Tangier, 82, 85, qi ; their 
 revenge on their oppressors, 91 ; as money- 
 lenders, 99 ; in Gibraltar, 107 ; power in 
 Algeria, 129; control of the press in Italy, 
 202; turbans of, 212; extraordinary imion 
 with other sects and races in Cairo, 214 ; 
 their part in affairs of Egypt, 255 ; Moham- 
 med's tolerance of, 323 ; in Presbyterian 
 mission schools of Egypt, 332; at Miss Man- 
 gan's mission at Jaffa, 343. 344 ; agriculture 
 among, 345 ; conquest of Palestine, 352 ; the 
 capital cities of, 355 ; attempt to recapture 
 Jerusalem, 355 ; courage in the siege of 
 Jerusalem, 356; tradition concerning the 
 last judgment, 362 ; opinion of the Kidron, 
 362; animosity between Christians and, in 
 Jerusalem, 377; return from captivity, 377; 
 ■wailing-place of the, 382 ; wailing litany, 
 382 ; on the Via Dolorosa, 385 ; reverence 
 for Rachel's tomb, 397 ; " piety " and " con- 
 scientiousness " among the, 414, 417; iden- 
 tify the tomb of David, 417 ; return of, to 
 the Holy Land, 418 : fanaticism, 4:8 ; filth, 
 418; superstition, 418 ; universal collections 
 in aid of poor, 418 ; unfavorable impression 
 created by, in modern Jerusalem. 418 ; un- 
 desirability of their control of Jerusalem, 
 425; agree as to site of Jacob's Well, 435 ; in 
 Nabulus, 438; wars with the Samaritans, 440; 
 in Nazareth, 453 ; in Tiberias, 463 ; two fa- 
 mous books of, 465 ; bigotry of those in Ti- 
 berias, 466 ; combats with wild beastr, 47.^ ; 
 the sacred river of the, 475 ; quarter of, in 
 Damascus, 483; e.xpel Lazarus from Joppa, 
 498 ; in Smyrna, 506, 507; Paul preaches to. 
 at Ephesus, 512 ; a place not monopolized 
 by, 521 ; St. Paul's dispute with, in Athens, 
 521 ; outwitted by Greeks. 529 ; in Constan- 
 tinople. 547 ; commercial superiority of 
 Armenians over, 549; at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Jezebel, residence of, 443. 
 
 Jezreel, 442, 443 ; plain of, 442; Bedouin camp 
 near, 443. 
 
 Joab, heroic deeds at Jerusalem, 355. 
 
 Joachim, father of Mary, 366 ; tomb of, 366. 
 
 Jobar, 489. 
 
 Job's monastery, 349. 
 
 Job's Well, 349. 
 
 John, the holy monk, 264. 
 
 John, St., statue of, ifg ; on the city of Jeru- 
 salem, 351 ; sleeping-place of, 365 ; healii.g 
 the lame man, 374; quoted, 377, 386,390, 
 468 ; description of Jacob's Well, 435; 
 Christ's finding of, at Capernaum, 468 ; at 
 the Transfiguration, 476 ; the Revelation 
 of, 501, 502 ;' monastery o?, 502 ; a disciple 
 of, 508 ; residence in Ephesus, 512, 513. 
 
 John Lateran, St., churcn of, 182, 186, 385. 
 
 John the I'.aptist, St., remains of, 144 ; cnapel 
 of, Genoa, 144; reputed birtliplace, 350; 
 scene of his baptisms, 410 ; convent of , 419 ; 
 reputed tomb, 441 ; disputed place of his 
 imprisonment, 441; baptizes Christ, 452: 
 one of the heads of ,484 ; the baptism of, 512. 
 
 John XXII, Pope, indulgences granted by, 
 26, 27. 
 
 Jonah, paintings of, in the Catacombs, 181 ; 
 embarkation at Joppa, 342 ; birthplace, 
 458 ; tomb, 458. 
 
 Joppa, 341 (see also Jaffa) • embarkation of 
 Jonah from, 342; Dorcas s life at, 342; 
 Hiram's shipments to, 342 ; -St. Peter's visit 
 to, 342, 343 ; Lazarus expelled from, by the 
 Jews, 498. 
 
 Jordan, the River, valley of, 370, 405 ; 
 Lynch's explorations, 406, 409 ; scene of 
 John the liaptist's works, 410; bathing- 
 places, 410 ; scene of Elijah's smiiii^g the 
 waters, 410; journey to, 410; "swellings" 
 of, 410; Lot's view of the plain of, 410; 
 drowning accidents, 410; crossed by the Is- 
 raelites, 410; bathi g in, 413; tributaries, 
 440 ; extremity of the plain of Esdraelon at, 
 442 ; baptism of Christ in, 452 ; course 
 through the Sea of Galilee, 467 ; a unique 
 river, 467 ; one of its fountains, 472 ; simili- 
 tude to American rivers, 474 ; its sources 
 and formation, 474, 475; the Little, 475. 
 
 Joseph, son of Jacob, residence at Heliopolis, 
 2ig ; scene of his dream, 400 ; blessings pro- 
 nounced upon, 431 ; Jacob's Well be- 
 queathed to, 435 ; tomb, ^35, 436 ; scene of 
 his seizure by his brethren, 438 ; scene of 
 his sale to Ishmaelites, 441 ; the pit of, 
 
 472- .. . 
 
 Joseph, husband of the Virgin, tomb of, 366; 
 altar to, at Bethlehem, 399; life in Naza- 
 reth, 452, 454. See also St. Joseph. 
 
 Joseph and ^lary, flight to Egypt, 340, 452 ; 
 at Beeroth, 430; return to Nazareth, 452. 
 
 Joseph of Arimathea, legend regarding, 144 ; 
 tomb, ^93. 
 
 Joseph's brethren, supposed painting of their 
 arrival in l^gypl, 255. 
 
 Joseph's Well, 472. 
 
 Josephus, records the residence of Jauob's 
 family in Egypt, 219; estimates of popula- 
 tion of Jerusalem, 357 ; on the tomb of 
 David, 417 ; authority of, 441 ; on the im- 
 prisonment of John the Baptist, 441 ; on the 
 " Little Jordan," 475 ; work at Banias, 476. 
 
 Joshua, the partition of Canaan by, 342, 434 ; 
 conquests of, 34S, 349. 352, 430, 472,474; 
 converts the valley of Hinnom into a cess- 
 pool, 361; remnants of altar erected by, 437 ; 
 book of, quoted, 472, 476 ; Mount Tabor in 
 time of, 476 ; tomb of, 548. 
 
 Jotham, scene of his satirical parable, 436. 
 
 Juan 1 1 , .sepulcher of, 13, 14. 
 
 Juda, 351. ... 
 
 Judah, boundary line between Benjamm and, 
 361. 
 
Index. 
 
 595 
 
 Judaism, mixture of, in Mohammedanism, 
 323; the sacred places of, 341 ; Islam's vic- 
 tories over Christianity and, 543. 
 
 Judas, his betrayal of Christ, 361, 365 ; the 
 tree on which he hanged himself, 396. 
 
 Judas, of Damascus, Saul's lodging with, 488. 
 
 Judea, the nioimt^iinsof, 341, 343, 347,349, 350. 
 
 Judge, the Hill of the, 472. 
 
 ■■ Judges," quoted, 348. 
 
 Judges, the days of the, 348, 350; tombs of 
 the. 373. 
 
 Judgment, Mohammedan belief in the, 323 ; 
 tradition concerning the last, 362. 
 
 Judith and Hulofcrnes, paintings of, 171. 
 
 Julesbnrg, the Platte above, compared with 
 the Nile, 239. 
 
 Julian the Apostate, 177. 
 
 Julius Caesar, assassination of, 177; relations 
 with Cleopatra, 269. 
 
 Jupiter, the image that fell from, 513. 
 
 Justinian, castle of time of, on .Mount Ger- 
 izim, 436, 437 ; wars with the Samaritans, 
 440 ; burning of church of Santa Sophia in 
 time of, 540 ; rebuilds Sanra Sophia, 540. 
 
 Justin .Martyr, on the birtn of Christ, 398. 
 
 Juvenal, records accident to statue of Mem- 
 non. 297. 
 
 Kabyles, the, hostility to Arabs, 133 ; war 
 
 with the French, 133 ; theory regarding 
 
 monkeys, 134 ; as workmen, 135. 
 Kadesh, 2S4. 
 Kadi Kaioi, 537. 
 Kaiks, at Constantinople, 549. 
 Kaiserswerth system, the, 28, 3x9 ; hospital 
 
 at Jerusalem, 422. 
 Kalapothakes, Rev. Mr., mission of, 519. 
 Kalmucks of the Caucasus, the, 559. 
 Karnak, temple erected at, by Amenophis I. 
 
 276 ; work of Thothmes I at, 276 ; work of ,' 
 
 Sethi I at, 276, 277 ; ride from Lu.\-or to, I 
 ■ 278, 279 ; ruins of, 279-283, 294 ; a tragic 
 
 figure in, 282; causes of the ruin of, 282 ; 
 • beggars at, 282, 283; 7'emple of, 287; by 
 
 moonlight, 302; revisited, 316; sphin.ves 
 
 from, 319 ; convent of Mar Saba contrasted 
 
 with, 400. 
 Karyaten, the lunatic asylum at, 492. 
 Katnarine, St., convent of, 419. 
 Kefr-Hawar, 479. 
 Kefr-Kenna, 458, 459. 
 Keneh, 266. 
 Kent beauties of, r. 
 Kentucky, the horses of, 483. 
 Khafra, tlie Pyramid of, 229. 
 Khan Jubb Vusef. 472. 
 Khartoom, 238; Negroes of, 305; telegraph 
 
 line to, 311. 
 Khedive of t^gypt, the. 215. 216 ; royal yacht, 
 
 243 ; as a sugar-inanufic urer, 257, 258. 
 Khepera, the prin:iple of light, 322. 
 Khiva, Saracen invasion of, s'; ; the Turko- 
 
 mans or, 559. 
 Khufu, the Pyramid of, 229. 
 Kibleh, the, 326. 
 
 Kidrou, valley of, 362-366, 370, 382, 405, 414. 
 ■■ King Henry VI," quoted, 480. 
 King of physical terrors, the, i )6. 
 King's Chamber, in Pyramid of Cheops, 227. 
 " Kings," quoted, 348,440. 
 Kings, Gates of the, 288-292 ; Tombs of the, 
 
 ,^.370,373. . . 
 
 Kings, the private and public lives of, con- 
 trasted, 573. 
 
 31 
 
 King-,ley, Bishop, grave of, at Beirut, 496. 
 
 Kios(|ue, the Viceroyal.at the Pyiamids, 222. 
 
 Kirjatli-jearim. identilication of, 350; David's 
 expedition to, to briiig back the ark, 350. 
 
 Kishon, Sisera's overthrow at the brook, 445, 
 446. 
 
 Kisil-Bash, the, 559. 
 
 Kiss, the .scene of the traitor's, 365. 
 
 Ri/zilbashes, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Knife, use of, in Spain, 70. 
 
 Knights of St. John, the, 500. 
 
 Knights Templars, destruction of, at Horns 
 of Hattin, 461. 
 
 Knumhopt, tomb of, 252, 255. 
 
 Kolonieh, reputed birthplace of John the 
 Baptist, 350; reputed site of Kmmaus, 351. 
 
 Koloiios, the, 523. 
 
 Kom-.^hmar, village of, 251. 
 
 Kom-umbos, ruins at, 303, 304. 
 
 Koorbash, the Kgyptian, 257. 
 
 Koornah, Temple ot, 284. 
 
 Koran, the, inscriptions from, in the Alham- 
 bra. 52 ; teaching, 86 ; reading, 212,484 ; its 
 position in the mosques, 213, 214 ; charac- 
 ters in, 323 ; knowledge of, indispensable to 
 the understanding of .Mohammedanism, 323; 
 quoted by howling dervishes, 329 ; recordfs 
 the translation of .Mohammed from Mecca 
 to Jerusalem, 378 ; inscriptions from, in the 
 Mosque of Omar, 378 ; ancient copies, 381 ; 
 descriptions of Paradise, 483 ; the legend 
 of the Seven Sleepers, 513 ; alliance with the 
 sword, 543 ; victory over the Old and New 
 Testaments, S43' 
 
 Kos, the historical interest of, 500, 5or. 
 
 Kossuth, Louis, in New York, 572 ; a promis- 
 sory note of, 572 ; how regarded Liy the 
 Hungarian people, 572, 573. 
 
 Koubbas, 128. 
 
 Kraneion, 527. 
 
 Kremlin, compared with the Alhambra, 51. 
 
 Kurds, outrages of, in Damascus, 488. 
 
 " La Champagne," the steamer. 573. 
 Lachine Rapids, compared with the First Cat- 
 aract, 309. 
 Lacrimae Chtisti, 200. 
 La Croix, on the approach to Constantinople, 
 
 532. 
 Ladder, the angels', at Bethel, 430. 
 " Lady, Our bright-faced," 343. 
 Lafayette, Marquis de, Washington's eulogy 
 
 of, 13. • 
 
 La Fontaine, the tales of, 191. 
 Laguna morta, 161. 
 Laguna ^ iva, 161. 
 Laish, 472. 
 
 Lake District, compared with Nazareth, 453. 
 Lakes, the purity of water of, 409. 
 Lamartine, Alphonse de, on the approach to 
 
 Constantinople, 535. 
 Lame man, healed by Peter and John, 374. 
 Lamentations of Jeremiah, supposed place of 
 
 their writinu, 373. 
 La .Mota, castle of, 11. 
 Lanarca, 497 ; Lazarus's remarkable voyage 
 
 to, 498. 
 Lances, poisoned, 305. 
 " Land and the Book, the," 386, 495. 
 Lane, Edward W., on the use of hasheesh, 218. 
 Language, in Smyrna, 504-506; the (Sreek. 
 
 530; changes in English, 530; a modern 
 
 babel. 504, 506, 547. 
 Laocooiis, paintings of, in Florence, 171. 
 
59^ 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Las Casas, r.artholnmew dc, liirtliplace of, 
 
 49- 
 
 Lasl jiulgiiient, traihtion concerning the, 362. 
 
 Last Supper, paiiitini; at Kloicnce, 170; the 
 tabic on which it was eaten, 185. 
 
 Lathyriis, Ptolemy, sacks 'Ihebes, 277 ; 
 breaks the statue of Meninon, 297. 
 
 Latin Churches, resorts of pilgri[iis of, 413 ; 
 undesirability of their control of Jerusalem, 
 425. See also Roman Catholic Chl'KCh. 
 
 Latin convent, at ISethlehem, 398. 
 
 Latins, at Miss Mangan's mission at Jaflfa, 
 343; ownership of the Stone of Anointing, 
 390; worship in the Angel's Chapel and 
 Chapel of the Sepulcher, 394 ; ignore St. 
 Longinus, 394 ; in Nazareth, 453. See also 
 Roman Catholics. 
 
 Latrun, village of, 349. 
 
 " Latter rain, the," 429. 
 
 Laura, 403. 
 
 Laureta, the widow, 203. 
 
 Lava, of Vesuvius, 194-197, 199. 
 
 Lavigerie, Cardinal C. M. Allemand-, indul- 
 gences granted by, 126. 
 
 Law, influence of Rome on, 177; loyalty to, 
 an Italian characteristic, 201 ; science of, in 
 Egypt, 240 ; study of, in Cairo, 326. 
 
 Lazarus, paintings of, in the Catacombs, 181 ; 
 house and tomb of, 414 ; Greek legend re- 
 garding, 498. 
 
 Leander, the scene of his feat, 532. 
 
 Lebanon, Solomon's purchase of wood from, 
 342 ; cedars of, used in construction of 
 Constantine's church at Bethlehem, 398; 
 mountains of, 442; cedars of, 471, 498; 
 compared with Hermon,478; streams from, 
 480 ; view of, from the desert, 491 ; mission 
 work in, 496. 
 
 Lebanon Pass, the, 492. 
 
 Leeches, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Legends, regarding the Sacro Catino, 144 ; a 
 wilderness of, 385. 
 
 Legerdemain, in Cairo, 211. 
 
 Leg ornaments, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Lemnos, 532. 
 
 Lemon-culture, at Sulem, 443. 
 
 Lemons, sweet, 49. 
 
 Lemon-trees, at Jaffa, 344. 
 
 Lenormant, Charles, grave of, 523. 
 
 Leo XIII, grant of indulgences b}', 126; a 
 virtual prisoner, 186. 
 
 Lepanto, Cervantes' service at, 25. 
 
 Lepers, colony of, at Bethany, 414; in Jeru- 
 salem, 426; number of, 4^6, 427; hospital 
 for, in Naaman's house, Damascus, 488. 
 
 Leprosy, Sir Morell Mackenzie on, 426, 427 ; 
 in Jerusalem, 426; symptoms and spread, 
 426 ; hereditary or not ? 426, 427. 
 
 Lepsius, Karl R., on the Pyramids, 229-231 ; 
 on the age of Memphis, 247; Egyptologist, 
 266. 
 
 Lesseps, Ferdinand de, Fiench consul at 
 Cairo, 336 ; residence at Ismailia, 336; con- 
 struction of the Suez Canal, 336, 337. 
 
 Lesseps, Mathieu de, Napoleon's chief of po- 
 lice in Moscow, 336; France's first repre- 
 sentative in Egypt, 336. 
 
 Levant, conquest of. by Venice, 158. 
 
 Levi, capture of Shechem by Simeon and, 
 43.8. 
 
 Levites, carry the ark to Jerusalem. 350; 
 blessing from Mount Gerizim, 437; cursing 
 from Mount Pbal, 437. 
 
 *' Liars and evil beasts,'' 206. 
 
 Libraries: Alexandria, 207; Athens, 522; P)ib- 
 lioteca Coloinbina, Seville, 45, 46; the Es- 
 corial, 33; Gibraltar, 105; Madrid, 20; 
 Mar Saba, 404. 
 
 Libyan desert, the, 238, 293, 294. 
 
 Libyan Mountains, 261, 263, 264, 275, 276, 287, 
 293, 294, 317. 
 
 Licoricc-paste, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Life, the Egyptian doctrine of the source of, 
 321, 322. 
 
 " Life and Epistles of St. Paul," quoted, 
 490. 
 
 Life-saving stations on the Black Sea, 548 
 
 Light, the Egyptian principle of, 322. 
 
 Lily, taken for the rose of Sharon, 346. 
 
 Lime, profane manufacture of, 520. 
 
 Linant Bey, M., makes plan for a canal at 
 Suez, 336. 
 
 Lincoln, Abraham, assassination of, 512. 
 
 Linen, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 " Linked sweetness long drawn in," 64. 
 
 Lion, the young lion and the dead, 186. 
 
 Lion and bull fight, 78. 
 
 Lions in the Atlas Mountains, 135. 
 
 Liszt, Abbe Franz, a piano formerly belong- 
 ing to, 572. 
 
 Litany, the wailing, of the Jews, 382. 
 
 Literary career, making a, in I'urkey, 563-565. 
 
 Literary men, the difficulties of, in I'urkey, 
 .562-565. _ 
 
 Literature, influence of Rome on, 177 ; posi- 
 tion of Naples in, 187, 191 ; Italian, 202. 
 
 Little Hermon, 444. 
 
 Little Jordan, the, 475. 
 
 Liverpool, arrival at, i. 
 
 Loggie, Raphael's, 186. 
 
 Logic, study of, in Cairo, 326. 
 
 Lombardy, 146; coronation of kings of, 154. 
 
 London, arrival in, i ; fog, i ; Cleopatra's 
 Needle, 208; stock-exchange, 211; situa- 
 tion, 275 ; saving in distance to Hong-Kong 
 from, via Suez Canal, 338 ; Miss Mangan's 
 mission-work, 343; Jerusalem compaied 
 with, 357 ; the best view of St. Paul's, 370 ; 
 likened to Constantinople, 547. 
 
 London College of Physicians, opinion of 
 leprosy, 427. 
 
 Long, Dr. A. L., visit to, at Constantinople, 
 538, 548, 553 ; position in Robert College, 
 555; translator of the Bible into Bulgarian, 
 568. 
 
 Long bow, a favorite Eastern implement, 439. 
 
 Longevity, incredible stories of, 413. 
 
 Lookout Mountain, battle of, 11. 
 
 Lord's Prayer, the Moslem equivalent of the, 
 
 324- 
 
 Lorenzo il Magnifico, 167 ; villa of, 171. 
 
 Loretto, origin of the town, 202, 203 ; the 
 house of the Virgin at, 454. 
 
 Loring family, 64, 65. 
 
 Lot, his view of the plain of Jordan, 410 ; res- 
 cued by Abram from the kings, 489. 
 
 Lotteries, in Spain, 69. 
 
 Louisiana, the alligator and crocodile in, 273. 
 
 Louis Philippe, estate of his son at Seville, 
 
 44. 45- , . , 
 
 Lourdes, scenery around, 3 ; arrival at, 3; 
 
 miracles of, 4-8 ; blessings obtainable at, 7. 
 Louvre, Egyptian relics in the, 248. 
 Loyalty to law, an Italian characteristic, 
 
 201. 
 Lucan, birthplace of, 36. 
 Lucas, Paul, on the First Cataract. 310. 
 Lucius Mumniius, destroys Corinth, 527. 
 
Index. 
 
 597 
 
 Luke, St., statue of, 169 ; paintings by. 172 • 
 as an artist 182, 185 : voyage and ship- 
 wreck with St. Paul. 206 ; account of the 
 crucihxion. 349; gospel quoted, 3 = 1, 468- 
 discrepancies regarding the site of the As- 
 cension, 369 ; account of the Traiisfieura- 
 tion. 476. 
 
 Lunacy, cause of. among Orientals, 217, 218- 
 n.isheesh as a factor m, 218 ' 
 
 Lunatic asylum, pride in a, 44 ; an unparal- 
 leled, 492. 
 
 Lunatics, treatment in Spain, 71 ; in Tangier, 
 92; Russian belief regarding, 125; TMo- 
 hammedan belief regarding, 125, 216, 217- in 
 tgypt, 216-219; early Christian belief're-i 
 garding, 217 ; at Mar Saba, 403 ; in Jerusa- I 
 lem, 422. ■' I 
 
 Lusignan Guy de. captured by Saladin, 487 I 
 
 Luther, Martin. 28; visit to Rome, 182 • the ' 
 
 will of, ^72. J 
 
 Luther's wife paintings of, in Florence, 17, I 
 Luxor. /I emple of. 277, 278, 287, 294; present 
 condition, 277 : the great hall, 277 ; modern ! 
 lite, 277. 278 ; occupation of the American 
 consul at, 300 ; a wonderful gymnast at 
 301 ; return to, 316. ' 
 
 Luz, 430. 
 
 Lycopolis, 263 ; mission of Eutropius 10,264 
 Lydda. 347. ^ ' '*■ 
 
 Lydda. Bishop of, defeat of, at Horns of Hat- 
 tin, 461. 
 
 Lykabettos, Mount. 522 
 
 Lynch. Lieut. W. F., explorations of, 370 
 406, 409 ; impressions of Jerusalem, 370 ■ 
 belief in the Kiblical accounts of the Dead 
 Sea and the Jordan, 409. 
 
 Lyons, meeting of the waters at, 230 
 
 Lysander the Spartan, 509. 
 
 Macarius. discovers the true cross and the 
 
 Holy Sepiilcher, 389. 
 Maccabees, the wars of the, 355 
 
 i''nto''°-"'.''' 531 ; Timothy and'Erastus sent 
 
 McFadden, R. A., sickness of, 317-319. re- 
 joins the party, 402. -^ / j y . re 
 
 Machiavelli. tomb of. 170 
 
 Mackenzie. Sir Morell, on leprosy, 426, 427. 
 
 W?dder, trade in, in Smyrna. 505 ' 
 
 Madonn.i, ' paintings of, in Florence, 171 • 
 Raphael s, 186. ' ' 
 
 Madrid, aspect, situation, etc., 10-23 2a • cli 
 
 Charles I to, 20; bullhghts. 20; the auto-da- 
 te, 20, 23 ; paintings in, 23 ; order in, 23 24- 
 an important purchase in, 26; -provident 
 tial institutions. 28; Protestant worship 
 28, 29 ; contrasted with Paris. 29 ; Weslevan 
 mission, 29 ; the Loring estates at, 64 • the 
 bull-ring, 74,77, 79, So ; a hero-elephant in 
 79; Convention of, 98. 
 Madridlenians, summer resorts of 12 
 Magda a. in the time of Christ, 467. ' 
 Magdalene asylums, in Genoa. 145. 
 Magellan, Ferdinand. birthpLice 49 
 iMagi, the, paintings of, in Florence 171- 
 altar to, at Bethlehem, 309 ' ' ' 
 
 Magic, practice of, in Ephesus 512 
 Magnesian (iate, Ephesus, the' ,11 
 Magos;, battle with Gog, 442 
 Mahdi, effect of the wars of the, 263 
 Mahmood Sultan, 540 ; tomb of his favorite 
 
 Mahmood II, massacres the Janizaries, 558. 
 
 Maimonides, tomb of, 465. 
 
 •Maine, experiences in', compared with Pales. 
 
 tine. 432. 
 Makhnaa, the plain of, 43,, 436. 
 .\lalag.a. the approach to, 62 ; beggars in 62 
 65 ; situation, scenery, and objects of in- 
 terest, 62-65 ; Spanish Protestant church 
 64 ; sugar-planting around, 64 ; the Loring 
 estates at, 64, 65 ; iron works of, 65 ■ Christ- 
 mas in, 65 ; the bull-ring, 74, „2 
 M.alta, strength of. 1,5. ^ '^' 
 Maltese, characteristics of, 107 
 Mamelukes, massacre of the, 213, rcg 
 Mamenme Prison, the, 181. ' 
 
 j " Maiiana ! " 70. 
 I Manasseh, the mother of, 219. 
 1 .Manetho, chronology of, 229 
 
 Mangan, .Miss, her work at jafTa. 343, 344. 
 ' .Manger, the holy, 399. ■^*^' ^^ 
 
 I Mango-trees, at Bethany, 414 
 I Manlius, 509. J > ^ +• 
 
 j Alansurah, Presbyterian mission at, 332 
 Mantles, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 Manuscripts^ Arab appreciation of, 216- 
 -Mariette Bey s search for, 248 ; one of the 
 I oldest in the world, 439 
 -Man with the Iron Mask, the, 139. 
 Marabouts, 125, 133. 
 
 Marakesh, indignities to travelers at, 07 
 Marauders, in Palestine, 429 
 Marble, profane use of classic. 520 
 Marcelus,.Vicomte de, on the approach to 
 
 Constantinople. 532 535 
 M.^rco Polo, statue at'.Milan, 154 
 -Marcos, Senor, president of the Spanish 
 Chamber of Deputies, 25 panisn 
 
 Marcus Aurelius, the Magnanimous, 177. 
 column of, 178. '' • 
 
 Margaret of Valois, persecutes Calvin, 8. 
 Maria Maggiore, St.. church of, 399 
 Mariette Bey, Auguste. on the Pyramids, 
 229, 230; discovery of sphin.ves by, 232 
 
 of liam^P T?"''"'""^ ^>'' ==36; onltatne 
 of Rameses II, 244 . declares fulfillment of 
 Jeremiah s prophecies, 247 ; on the age of 
 Memphis, 247 ; discovery of the Serapeum 
 by, 248 ; writings of. 250 ; Egyptologist 266 • 
 account of the Temple of Denderal. 266 
 f^^-^\ ^^ T«-'°''''*=> =73 ; on the hiitorj; 
 nit s '^^^VP''^^'<^''°" "-egarding Kar- 
 nak, 282; on the temple at Edfoo, 30,- 
 conservator of the monuments of Egynt' 
 303; on the First Cataract, 310; tomb ofi 
 319; chronology' of .Menes, 322. 
 
 INIantza River, the, 567. 
 
 ^L-irk, St., tomb of, .at Venice, 158, 16? • 
 monastery of, Florence, ,70; account of 
 the Transfigunation, 476; in Cyprus. 498. 
 
 Mark Antony, ,77; scene of his funeral 
 oration, i8i. 
 
 Mark Twain, fame of, 236, 237 
 
 iMarmora, Sea of, the, .:32 ■;:!=: ciio c-fi ^(^ 
 
 Maronites, a, Mi^s Ul^^:n^V'^^2ott f"^' 
 
 -its' i-f-lli ^r> U --. . XT .1 •/ 
 
 343 ; church at Nazareth, 455, 477 .78 
 Marquand House, Beirut, 495 ^"' ^^ 
 
 ''aXfhe,^T' '''"'' '^'' °'''^ ^'^"- 
 
 Marnages, barbarous ceremonies at Abyssin- 
 ian, 421. 
 
 Mar Saba, the convent of, 400-404 ; peculiar 
 sensations concerning, 400, 403; women 
 excluded from, 403 ; peculiarities, 403, 404 • 
 library at, 404 ; view from, 461. ' ^ ■^' ^ * • 
 
 Marseillaise, the, 2, 138. 
 
59S 
 
 Tkavki-s in Three Continents. 
 
 Marseilles, climate. 137; commerce, 137; 
 harbor, 137; cathedral, 137; saving in 
 distance to Bombay from, via Suez Canal, 
 
 338; 
 
 Mars Hill, J21, 522 ; religious service on, 521. 
 
 Marston, Col., American consul at Malaga, 62. 
 
 Martha, the si>ter of .Mary. 414. 
 
 Martineau, Harriet, on the view of Cairo, 213; 
 on the Pyramids, 225, 22S. 
 
 Martyrs: tieronimo, 122; reputed tombs of 
 Christian, at Tower of Kamleh, 347 ; skulls 
 of, at Mar Saba, 403, 404; St. Polycarp, 
 508; St. Ignatius, 508. 
 
 Mary, Chapel of the Egyptian, 390. 
 
 Mary, the si>tt.r of Martha. 414. 
 
 Mary, the Virgin, iMohanimedan view of, 378 ; 
 Mohammedan view of the Son of, 378 ; 
 meeting with her Son, 386 ; visit of tlie angel 
 Ciabriel to, 452; life in -Nazareth, 452. 
 
 Mary Magdalene, Christ's third appearance 
 to, 390; chapel of, 390. 
 
 Mary s Well, 455, 458. 
 
 Masorah, the, 465. 
 
 Massacres: of St. Bartholomew, g; of the 
 Janizaries, 558 ; of the .Mamelukes, 213, 558. 
 
 Mathematics, aptitude of the Copts for, 351. 
 
 Matter, Egyptian doctrine of, 321. 
 
 Matterhorn. view from Milan cathedral, 153. 
 
 Matthew, St., monuments and portraits of, 
 169 : gospel quoted, 304. 476; account of the 
 herd of swine, 471 ; account of the Trans- 
 figuration, 476. 
 
 Maxentius, Constantine's victory over, 181. 
 
 Maydoom. the Pyramid of, 250. 
 
 Mazzini, Giuseppe, tomb of, 146. 
 
 Meander, the River, 503. 
 
 Mecca, pilgrims to, 39. 212 ; aspect of mosques 
 toward, 213; the holy well at. 214; mirac- 
 ulous transportation of column to Cairo 
 from, 214; the Riwak of, 325; the holy as- 
 pect of, 326; the next holiest place to, 378 ; 
 Mohammed's translation to Jerusalem from, 
 378; Mohammed's humble occupation in, 
 480; Mohammedans pray facing, 543. 
 
 Mechanical arts, spread of, i6g. 
 
 Medici, Catherine de', 9. 
 
 Medina, the Riwak of, 325. 
 
 Mediterranean Sea, entrance into the. 81 ; the 
 key to, 100 ; view from Gibraltar. 112; view 
 from Marseilles, 138 ; view from Nice. 139 ; 
 view from Mentone, 142 ; characteristics, 
 146 ; scener)' of, 146; admission of its waters 
 to the Suez Canal, 337 ; a sorrowful view 
 of, 338 ; view from Tower of Ramleh, 347 ; 
 comparative levels of the Dead Sea and, 
 406; height of Jerusalem above. 406; rela- 
 tive saltness of waters of, 409; view from 
 Mount Gerizim, 436 ; rivers flowing into 
 the. 440; beginning of the plain of Esdra- 
 elon at the, 442 ; height of Tabor above, 
 449 ; view from Nazareth, 453 ; difference 
 of level between Sea of Galilee and. 465 ; 
 height of Lake Huleh above. 472 ; Csesarea 
 on. 473 ; -^ distant view of, 492 ; once more 
 on, 497. 
 
 Medusa, paintings of, in Florence, 171. 
 
 Megara, 524. 
 
 Megarians, found Calcedonia, 537. 
 
 Mejdel, 477. 
 
 Melchizedek, scene of sacrifices by, 378, 381 ; 
 scene of his encounter with .Abraham. 456. 
 
 Memnon, Colossus of, 297. 
 
 Memory, Rogers's tribute to, 503. 
 
 Memphis, 219, 244, 247. 
 
 Meneptah 1, tomb of 276. 
 
 Menes, first historic king of Egypt, 322. 
 
 Menkaura, the Pyramid of, 229. 
 
 Mental aberration, the borderland between 
 
 sanity and, 425. 
 Mentone, 142. 
 
 Mequinez, the Sultan's court in, 94. 
 Mercedes, Queen, 34. 
 
 Mer de tUace, a contrast on the. 226. 227. 
 Merum, the waters of, 472. 
 Messageries M:irilimes. the, 338. 
 Alessiah. the Mohammedan view of the. 378. 
 Messina, reduction of journey to the Pirajus 
 
 and Constantinople from, 524. 
 Methodist Episcopal Church, a faithful serv- 
 ant of the, 496. 
 Methodist Episcopal Missionary Society of 
 
 the United States, church at Milan, 157. 
 Methodists, in Italy, 204. 
 Metropolitan .Museum of Art. Gen. Di Cesno- 
 
 la's connection with the, 499. 
 Metz, surrender of, 139. 
 Mevlevi, 553. 
 
 Michael, St., archangel, statues of, in Flor. 
 ence, 171 ; chapel at the Holy Sepulcher, 
 390; Mohammedan archangel, 543. 
 Michael Angeio, statue of, at .Nlilan, 154 ; in 
 Florence, 167 ; architect of St. Peter's, 
 Rome. 169 ; tomb, 170 ; works, 186. 
 " Middlemarch," quoted, 439. 
 Midianites. scene of their overthrow by Gid- 
 eon. 444. 
 Milan, disputed sovereignty of no ; situation, 
 146; ancient rights in, 149 ; cathedral, 149- 
 154; paintings. 150, 154; the plague in. 150 ; 
 view ^rom the cathedral roof, 150, 15:; ; 
 church of San Ambrogio, 154; gallery of 
 Victor Emmanuel, 154; cemetery at. 154; 
 cremation in. 154; triumphal arch of Na- 
 poleon, 157 ; Protestant church in, 157. 
 Mildmay Hospital, at J-iffa, 343. 
 Miletus, 503 : Paul's address at, 513 ; rival of 
 
 Corinth, 527. 
 Millingen. Prof., under the guidance of, 539. 1 
 Mills, J. J., offers prayer on Mars' Hill. 521. 
 ]Slilton. John, visit to Galileo, 172 ; on the 
 
 brook of Siloa, 361. 
 Minarets, picturesque features of, 537. 
 Mineral baths, use of, in Buda-Pesih, 572. 
 Minerva's treasury, report of the registrar of, 
 
 on the sources of the Nile, 310. 
 Minutius, Quintus Marcus, award by, 144. 
 Mirabeau. H. G. R,, imprisonment of, 138. 
 Miracles, at Lourdes, 4-8; iini\ersality of, 8; 
 apparition of St. Raphael at Cordo\'a, 40; 
 painting by St. Luke, 172; bones from the 
 Catacombs, 182 ; liquefaction of the blood 
 of St. Januarius, 188. 189 ; wrought by St. 
 Paul's head, 203 ; transportations of the 
 Casa Santa, 203, 454 ; transportation of 
 column from Mecca to Cairo. 214; a sup- 
 posed possessor of the gift of , 264 ; the sun's 
 standing still, 348, 349; or natural events? 
 349 ; St. Veronica's handkerchief, 386 ; 
 wrought by the true cross, 389 ; the resto- 
 ration to life of .Adam, 394 ; weeping col- 
 umns. 394 ; of St. Longinus, 394 ; Elisha's 
 raising the dead, 443; Christ's first, 458; 
 feeding the five thousand, 461 ; camels the 
 instruments of. 465 ; the draught of fishes, 
 468 ; the remarkable voyage of Lazarus, 498; 
 wrought by Paul at Ephesus, 512 ; in Con- 
 stantinople, 540. 
 Mishna, the, 465. 
 
Index. 
 
 599 
 
 Missions, at Asyoot. 264 ; in China and Japan. 
 335 ; '" Jerusalem, 422 ; scandal and back- 
 biting in Jerusalem, 422 ; at Ramallah, 430, 
 431 ; at Beirut, 492, 495, 496 ; in Smyrna, 
 507 ; at Athens, 519; convention of workers 
 at Sofia, 568. 
 
 Mississippi River, the, first impressions of, 
 238 ; resemblance of a Nile steamer to one 
 on, 243 ; changes of course, 483. 
 
 Mistress of the World, the, 174. 
 
 Mithridates. orders the massacre of all 
 Roman citizens, 501 ; Ephesus and, 509. 
 
 Mitrahenny, 244. 
 
 Mitylene, 503. 
 
 Mizpah, 350 ; burial-place of Samuel, 370. 
 
 Mnason, journey with St. Paul, 498. 
 
 Mnemonic trance, a, 174. 
 
 Moab, mountains of, 370; view of, 405. 
 
 Mohammed, pilgrimages to tomb of, 39 ; in- 
 fluence of, 55 ; ideas on education. 86 ; de- 
 scent of the Sultan of Morocco from, 94 ; 
 lines of descent from, 98 ; descendants of, 
 212 ; religion of, 323-333 ; fixed place of, 
 333 ; ^s judge at the last day. 362 ; transla- 
 tion from Mecca to Jerusalem, 378 ; on 
 the value of prayers, 381 ; the golden nails 
 of. 3S1 ; hairs from his beard, 381 ; trans- 
 lation to heaven. 381 ; tombs of his wives, 
 484 ; opinion of Damascus, 489 ; custom in 
 pre.iching, 543; prophet of God, 550; pro- 
 pheticcharacter. 5^4; sacred standardof, 558. 
 
 Mohammed Abdel Rahman, 215, 221. 
 
 Mohammed AH. gift of Cleopatra's Needle to 
 England, 208 ; mosque of, 212. 213 ; orders 
 the massacre of the .Mamelukes, 213 ; pre- 
 sents statue of Rameses II to England, 
 244 ; excavation work under, 316. 
 
 Mohammed II, captures Constaiyinople, 536. 
 
 " Mohammedan," explanation of the term, 
 
 559- 
 
 Mohammedanism, forbids drunkenness, 93 ; 
 in Egypt. 323-333; religious fervor, strength, 
 and tenacity, 324. 325. 330, 333 ; conten- 
 
 • tion in, 325 ; the central doctrine of, 333 ; 
 a narrow line between Christianity and, 
 333 ; converts from, in Presbyterian mission 
 schools of Egypt, 333 ; the sacred places of, 
 341 ; the issues between Christianity and, 
 378 ; a hero of. 487 ; the true name for, 559. 
 
 Mohammedan life, a study of. 433. 
 
 Mohammedan prayer, a, 52. 
 
 Mohammedans, grandeur of their ecclesiastic- 
 al edifices, 39, 40 ; rise of power in Asia, 55 ; 
 bigotry, 82 ; superstition, 99 ; turbans, 212 ; 
 extraordinary union with other sects in 
 Cairo, 214; how they regard insanity, 216, | 
 217 ; use of wine by, 217 ; use of opium, | 
 217 ; education of, at Asyoot, 264 ; manners 
 and customs, 324, 434 ; reneg.ades among, 
 325 ; unbelief among, 325 ; in Presbyterian 
 mission schools of Egypt, 332 ; compare 
 the Roman Catholic and Greek Churches, 
 333 ; capture of Jerusalem by, 365, 369, 
 377 ; tradition concerning the last judg- 
 ment, 362 ; possession of Jerusalem, 373, 
 374 ; the holiest places of, 378 ; their idea 
 of Christ, 378, 553, 554 ; traditions of, 378, 
 381 ; reverence for Rachel's tomb, 397 ; 
 belief regarding the tomb of Moses, 405 ; 
 identify the tomb of David, 417 ; agree as 
 to site of Jacob's Well. 435 ; in Nabulus, 
 438; in Nazareth. 453, 454 ; capture of the 
 Holy Land. 461 ; frequent captures and re- 
 captures of Banias b}-, 474 ; in Damascus, 
 
 483, 484 ; fatalism of, 484 ; Saladin's rank 
 among. 487 ; fanaticism, 488 ; a favorite 
 burial-place of, 489 ; in Smyrna, 507 ; con- 
 tempt of, for Sm^j-rna, 508 ; belief in legend 
 of the Seven Sleepers, 513 ; conquest ot 
 Constantinople, 536; alterations in Santa 
 Sophia by, 540; custom of prayer among, 
 543; claim regarding Joshua's tomb, 548; 
 the devotions of. 550 ; number of, 559. 
 
 Mohammedan saints, tombs of, 348. 
 
 Monaco, 140. 
 
 Monasteries: St. Mark, Florence, 170; Fiesole, 
 171; Augustinian, at Rome, 182; on the 
 Mount of Olives, 369; in and around Beth- 
 lehem, 398-404 ; of the Greek Church in 
 Syria, 419; at Ramallah. 430; in Nazareth, 
 454; of St. John the Divine, 502 ; on .Mount 
 Athos, 531, 532. Sec also Convents ; 
 
 MoSQLES. 
 
 Monkey, a huge, 301, 302. 
 
 Monkeys, at Gibraltar, 108. See also Afes. 
 
 Monophysites, the, 331. 
 
 Montagu, Lady ^Iary Wortley, on the ap- 
 proach to Constantinople, 535. 
 
 Mont Blanc, view (jf. from Slilan cathedral, 
 153; sterility of soil on, 293; prominence 
 among the Alps, 449 ; of Palestine, the, 478. 
 
 Mont Cenis. view of, from Milan cathedral, 153. 
 
 Monte Carlo, 140-142; suicide at. 141; a 
 Scotch minister s experience, 141 ; ministers 
 at, 141, 142. 
 
 Montefiore. Sir Moses, tenement-houses con- 
 structed by. in Jerusalem, 418. 
 
 Menterey, Fort, 139. 
 
 Montero. Francisco Maria, 105. 
 
 Monte Rosa, view from Milan cathedral, 153. 
 
 Monte San Angelo. 188. 
 
 .Montpensier, Duke of. estate at Seville, 44. 45. 
 
 Monuments, destruction of, at Naples. 192. 
 
 "Monuments of Upper Egypt," 247. 250. 
 
 Moon, the, standing in Ajalon, 348, 340. 
 
 Moors, the vanquisher of the, 14; influence 
 on Toledo, 34, 35 ; conquest of, 35 ; capture 
 Cordova, 39 ; degeneracy of, 40, 99, 100 : in 
 Seville, 43 ; characteristics of architecture, 
 51 ; legend regarding the Alhambra, 52 ; 
 limitations of their powers in Spain, 55; ex- 
 pulsion from Spain, 56; admixture in Span- 
 ish population, 66; the bull-ring attributed 
 to, 77 ; conquest of Spain, 81; their key to 
 Spain, 81: in Tangier, 82. 89; Commercial 
 instincts and education, 86; characteristics, 
 89; former greatness, 90 : in Gibraltar, 107, 
 110, 113; houses of wealthy. 121. 122; women 
 among, 122 ; of Numidia, 133; as workmen, 
 
 '35-. 
 
 Mophi. the mountain of, 310. 
 
 Morea, the, 205. 
 
 Moreh, the hill, 444, 446. 
 
 Moret, Senator, 25. 
 
 Moriah, Mount, 356, 377. 
 
 Morocco, coffee in, 85; handicraft in, 89; 
 climate, 93, 99; the Sultan's court in the 
 city of, 94 ; difficulty of obtaining informa- 
 tion in, 94 ; Thompson's travels in, 94, 97 ; 
 how family scandals are avoided in, 98, 99 ; 
 scenes, people, condition, and outlook, 82- 
 100 : view of, from Gibraltar, 112 ; likeness 
 of houses in, to those of Pompeii, 157, 198 ; 
 mosques, ^40. 
 
 " Morocco Times." quoted, 94. 
 
 Mosaics, in Cordova cathedral. 39; in Flor- 
 ence, 171 ; in Constantine's church at Beth- 
 lehem, 398. 
 
6oo 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Moscow, paiiuing by St. I.ukc in, 172 ; Na- 
 poleon's chief of police in, 336. 
 
 Moses, discovered by I'haraoh's daughter, 
 214, 241 ; the Koran record of, 323; at the 
 biirninsj Ijush, 331; tonU) (!) of, 405; Mo- 
 hammedan estimate of. 554. 
 
 Moses, our ancient Kuide, 395 ; trading horses 
 with, 396; opinion of C'lirist, 400; describes 
 the rules of the convent of Mar Saba, 404; 
 reminiscences and descriptions of, 410; 
 ■■piety" and "conscientiousness" of, 414, 
 417 ; linguistic talents, 506. 
 
 Moses' Tree, 214. 
 
 Moslems, miracles among, 8 ; prayers of, 324 ; 
 at Mi>s Mangan's mission at JaflTa, 343, 344. 
 
 Mo>ciues : at Abou-Gosch, 350; Algiers, 122, 
 125, 540; of Amer, 214; Cairo, 211, 213; 
 Constantinople, 540, 550; Egypt, 540 ; Kl- 
 Aksa, 378, 381 : of Gami-el-Azhar, 325 ; 
 the Great, of Damascus, 484 ; of Hassan, 
 122 ; of Jerusalem, 540 ; of IVIohammed Ali, 
 212, 213 ; of Morocco, 540 ; on the Nile, 251 ; 
 of Omar, the, 370, 378, 381, 487 ; at Oran, 
 120 ; Kamleh, 347 ; Santa Sophia, 536, 
 540-543; of Suiiman the Magnificent, 550; 
 of Sultan Hassan, 213. 216; Tangier, 82 ; 
 exclusion of unbelievers from, 324 ; Sala- 
 din's building of, 487; the church in which 
 St. Polycarp preached, 508. 
 
 Mosque-tax, the, 550. 
 
 Mosquitoes, in Smyrna, 504. 
 
 Mota, La, castle of. 11. 
 
 Mougel l>ey, ^L, makes plan for a canal at 
 Suez, 336. 
 
 Mount. For those not gi\eM below, see the 
 proper names, as Ebal ; Gekizim. 
 
 Mount, the Sermon on the, scene of, 461. 
 
 Mountain of the Bird, the, 251. 
 
 Mount of Beatitudes, the, 461. 
 
 Mount of Blessing, the, 436. 
 
 Mount of Cursing, the 437. 
 
 Mount of Olives, the, Titus's troops on, 355 ; 
 Jewish burials on, 362 ; tradition concern- 
 ing the last judgment, 362 ; height of, 366; 
 compared with one of the Alps, 366; the 
 Ascension from, 369; distance from Jeru- 
 salem and Bethany, 369; nomenclature, 
 369; monasteries on, 369; Russian tower 
 on, 370; Jerusalem from, 370; view from, 
 405, 414 ; a lunatic's delusion regarding, 422; 
 farewell view of, 429. 
 
 Mount of Transfiguration, the, 476. 
 
 Mounts of Precipitation, the, 455. 
 
 Mueller, Otfried, grave of, 523. 
 
 Muezzin, the cry of the, 211, 212, 550. 
 
 Mules, use of, in Palestine, 428. 
 
 Muley Abbas, succession to the sultanship. 
 98, 99 ; self-destruction of, 99. 
 
 Muley Ali, " removal " of, 99. 
 
 Muley Dris, " accident " to, og. 
 
 Muley Hassan, sultan of Morocco, 97-C9. 
 
 Mummies, their raison d'etre, 231 ; large 
 find of, 248 ; of crocodiles, 261 ; of jackals, 
 263 ; of wolves. 263; method of burial, 291 ; 
 of a priestly scribe, 320; curious teeth in a, 
 320; a well-preserved, 320; representation 
 of Osiris, 321. 
 
 Mummius, Lucius, destroys Corinth, 527. 
 
 Murad, deposition of, 558. 
 
 Murad. Dr. Anutun, 344. 
 
 Murillo, Bartholomew, paintings at Madrid, 
 23 ; works of. 45 ; house and tomb of. 46 ; 
 mutilation of his " St. Anthony," 46 ; birth- 
 place, 49. 
 
 Museo, the, Madrid, 23. 
 
 Muses and (iraces. Asylum of the, 507. 
 
 Muses, the Hill of the, 528. 
 
 Museum of .Arabic Anticjuities, Cairo, 216. 
 
 Museum of Ionia, the, 507. 
 
 Museum of the Archa;ological Society at 
 
 Alliens, 522. 
 Music, divine, 63, 64; in Spain, 68; Italian 
 
 love for, 200; Italy's eminence in, 202 ; 
 
 sweet strains of, 449, 450. 
 Mycerinus, the Pyramid of, 229. 
 Myrtles, in Syria, 478. 
 Mythology, complexity of Egyptian, 320. 
 Myths, a wilderness of, 385. 
 
 l\ly Winter on the Nile," 241. 
 Mythology, Grecian, Roman, and Egyptian 
 
 compared, 320 ; the symbolic, of I'^gypt, 
 
 321, 322. 
 
 Naaman, interview with Elisha, 413, 480; 
 leper hospital in theJiouse of, at Damascus. 
 488. 
 
 Naboth, the field wrested by Ahab from, 443. 
 
 Nabulus, valley of, 438 ; position, 440 ; pecul- 
 iarities of Samaritan worship at, 440; re- 
 mains at, 441. 
 
 Nahr-Barbar, River, 479. 
 
 Nails, Mohammed's golden, 381. 
 
 Nain, 444, 445. 
 
 Nakedness, exhibitions of, in Egypt, 256, 257, 
 282, 284, 306. 
 
 Name-scribblers in Egypt, 249. 
 
 Naples, 187-102, 205 ; disputed sovereignty 
 of, no; blackmailed by Algiers, 127; age 
 of, 187 ; climate, 187; Rogers on the beauty 
 of, 187 ; rivaled by Constantinople, 18S ; 
 compared with Seville and Vienna, igi ; 
 covered with ashes from Vesuvius, 195 ; 
 addition to our party at, 205. 
 
 Naples, Bay of, 188, 192. 
 
 Napoleon I, embarkation from St. Raphael, 
 138 ; statue at Milan, 150, 154 ; orders com- 
 pletion of Milan cathedral, 149; works at 
 Milan, 157 ; transfers Roman bronze horses 
 to Paris, 165 ; persuades the priests to pro- 
 duce the miracle of St. Januarius, 189 ; 
 landing-place in Egypt, 206 ; steps toward 
 a canal at Suez, 336; his cruelty, genius, 
 and energy, 344 ; plain of Esdraelon in time 
 of, 442. 
 
 Napoleon III, coup d'Stat of, 2; the Sultan's 
 gift to, 382. 
 
 Nathanael. quotation of, regarding Nazareth, 
 453 ; birthplace. 458. 
 
 National assemblies of Israelites, 350. 
 
 National Museum, Naples, 189, 190. 
 
 Nativity, the, 398, 399. 
 
 " Natural History," of Pliny, 269. 
 
 Naval history, the fame of Samos in, 503. 
 
 Navarino, battle of, 205. 
 
 Navarre, Henri of, birthplace of, 8 ; kingdom 
 of, 55.^ 
 
 Navigation, in Egypt, 240. 
 
 Nazarene. the, 452. 
 
 Nazareth, house of the Virgin at, 203; rivalry 
 between Samaria and, 440 ; a glimpse of, 
 443; entry into, 451 ; pride and fame of, 452; 
 devotion of pilgrims to, 452 ; life of Christ 
 in, and his connection with, 452-457 ; 
 Christ's last visit to, 452,453; population, 
 453 ; proverb concerning, 453 ; situation of, 
 453 ; scenery and beauty of, 453, 455 ; Mo- 
 hammedan capture of, 454 ; the alleefd 
 table at which Christ and his disciples 
 
Index. 
 
 6oi 
 
 ained,454; feelings on approaching, 455, 
 456 ; feelings on leaving, 456, 457 ; depart- 
 ure from, 457, 458 ; distant view of the 
 mountains of, 471. 
 
 Neapolitans, morals of, 190-192. 
 
 Nebo, Mount, 370 ; region of, 405. 
 
 Neby Musa, 405. 
 
 Neby Samwil, supposed tomb of Samuel, 350. 
 
 Negroes, in Tangier, 85, 89, 91 ; of Khar- 
 toom, 305 ; at the First Cataract, 311 ; com- 
 pared with Nubians, 312; dervishes among, 
 329; in Smyrna, 506; in Constantinople, 
 
 547- . . , ., 
 
 Nehemiah, describes the tomb of David, 417 ; 
 customs from the time of, 440. 
 
 Nelson, Admiral, feted at C.ibraltar, 112. 
 
 Nemours, the alleged harborof, iig. 
 
 Nero. Triumphal Arch of, 162; the burning 
 of Rome, 177; decoration of Temple of 
 Denderah under, 267 ; his name in the tem- 
 ple, 269; brass statue of, 287; inscriptions 
 of time of, on statue of Memnon, 297; a de- 
 layed project of the time of. 524. 
 
 Nerva, contribution to Temple of Isis, 309. 
 
 Netherlands, the Spanish, disputed sovereign- 
 ty of, ITO. 
 
 Neva, the, 275. 
 
 New Jersey, a citizen from, at Thebes, 278 ; 
 a reminder of, 504. 
 
 Newspapers, Greek, 516; the difficulties of 
 conducting, in Turkey, 562, 563. 
 
 New Testament, nomenclature of the Mount 
 of Olives in, 360; graphic descriptions of 
 the. 471 ; references to Banias, 475; the Ko- 
 ran's victory over the. 343. See also Bible. 
 
 New York, discovery of mutilated Murillo 
 canvas in, 46; the Italian quarter in, 201 ; 
 Cleopatra's Needle in, 208 ; the stock- 
 exchange of, 211; saving in distance to 
 Bombay from, via Suez Canal, 338; relics 
 of Cyprus in, 499; an oriental establish- 
 ment in, 504; Smyrna carpets in, 505; 
 embarkation for, 573. 
 
 New York .Academy of Medicine, discussion 
 of leprosy by, 426. 
 
 Niagara Kails, impressions of, 222 ; the First 
 Cataract compared with, 310. 
 
 Nice, geology of, log; climate, 139, 14b; 
 scenery, 139; gayety of, 140; birthplace of 
 Garibaldi, 146: Council of, 207. 
 
 Nicodemus, the anointing of Christ's body by, 
 39D ; tomb of, 393. 
 
 Nicolaitans, the deeds of the. 514. 
 
 Nightingale. Florence, the work of, 556. 
 
 Nightingales, on shores of the Dead Sea. 409. 
 
 Nijni No\gorod, the fair at, 357,544,547; 
 how population of. is computed, 357. 
 
 Nike, the Temple of, 520. 
 
 Nile, River. 209, 212, 221, 294, 310; its rising. 
 214. 215. 221, 238-240; quarries on, 231; 
 grandeur, 238 ; first impressions, 238 ; Gift 
 of the, 238; sources, 238, 310, 311; com- 
 pared with the Platte, 239 ; valley of, 239 ; 
 influence on intellectual character in Egypt, 
 240; turned into blood, 241; steamboat 
 travel on, 241 ; the voyage up the. 243 et 
 seq. ; scenery, 243 et seq. ; fish, 250; super- 
 stition on, 250 ; wrecks, 251 ; beggars, 251 ; 
 a sugar-factory on, 257 ; at Asyoot 261; 
 English military movements on the, 263, 
 305 ; journey of Eutropius up the, 264 ; 
 crocodiles, 270, 273 ; compared with other 
 rivers, 275 ; action of the water on Karnak, 
 282 ; the ever-wonderful river, 288 ; its 
 
 overflow, 294 ; destructive work. 304 ; the 
 mystery of, solved, 31 1 ; aground in the, 316, 
 317 ; incompetency of pilots on, 317 ; sick- 
 ness on, 317, 318 ; sufferings on, 335 ; 
 changes of course, 483. 
 
 Nilometer, the, 214. 
 
 " Nineteenth Century." quoted, 201 ; article 
 on leprosy, 426. 
 
 Nineteenth Dynasty, the, 244. 
 
 N'ive, River, 9. 
 
 Noah, the great-grandson of, 144; the Koran 
 record of, 323. 
 
 Nob. 370. 
 
 Nomads, around Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Normans, occupation of Naples, 191. 
 
 North America, British area and population 
 in. 115. 
 
 North American College, at San Sebastian, 12. 
 
 North Cape, compared with Gibraltar, 112, 113. 
 
 North Star, as seen in Egypt, 316. 
 
 Norway, pine-tree of, 314 : barren hills of, 350. 
 
 Nose jewels, 320. 
 
 Notre Dame d'Afrique, church of, 126. 
 
 N6tre Dame de la Garde, church of, at Mar- 
 seilles, 138. 
 
 " Nozrani !" the opprobrious cry of, 438. 
 
 Nubia, the valley of the Nile in, 239; trade 
 with .A.syoot, 263 ; music of, 305, 306 ; prox- 
 imity to .Abyssinia in, 420. 
 
 Nubians, at Cairo, 222 ; at Edfoo, 303; char- 
 acteristics, 305, 306, 312 ; at the First Cata- 
 ract, 311 ; compared with Negroes and 
 Arabs, 312 ; superstition among, 312, 313. 
 
 " Numbers," quoted, 348,350. 
 
 Numidia. 133. 
 
 Nun, the source of life, 322. 
 
 Nun, Cape, 120. 
 
 Obadiah, tomb of, 441. 
 
 Obed-edom, the ark at the house of, 350. 
 
 Obelisk, the oldest in Egypt, 219. 
 
 Obelisks, the building of, 219 ; at Karnak, 
 276 ; at Lu.\or, 277 ; one from Luxor at 
 Paris, 277 ; Hall of the, 280 ; the largest in 
 existence, 280; hewing and transportation 
 of, 302, 306 ; reasons for Egyptian, 538 ; in 
 the hippodrome of Constantinople, 560. 
 
 Oberland, the Bernese, 8. 
 
 Observatory of .Algiers, 127, 128. 
 
 Ocean, relative freshness of waters of the, 409. 
 
 Odeon, of Ephesiis, the, 510. 
 
 Odeum, of Herodes Atticus, 520. 
 
 O'Hara's Tower, Gibraltar, 115. 
 
 Ojen Mountains, 112. 
 
 Old Man of the Mountain, compared with the 
 Sphinx, 235. 
 
 Old Testament, nomenclature of the Mount 
 of Olives in, 369; references to Banias, 475; 
 quoted, 489 ; the Koran's victory over, 543. 
 See also Bible. 
 
 Olive-culture, 219, 346,347,350, 431, 436, 450, 
 453. 5j6. 
 
 Olive oil, from the Garden of Gethsemane, 
 365 ; manufactures of, in Nabulus, 438 ; 
 trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Olives, Mount of. See AIount of Olives. 
 
 Olivet, road from Jerusalem to, 374. 
 
 Olive-trees, at Jerusalem, 361, 362,365-369; 
 at Grotto of the Shepherds, 400; at Bethany, 
 414 ; beauty of, 431 ; at Shechem, 436. 
 
 Olive-wood, used for manufacture of rosaries, 
 
 397- . 
 Olympieum, the, 519 ; compared with the 
 Temple of Diana, 519. 
 
6o2 
 
 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 Omar, the Mosque of. 370. 
 
 Omar, Caliph, visits the site of Solomon's 
 Temple, 378. 
 
 Ombos, worship of the crocodile by the in- 
 habitants of, 270. 
 
 Omens, belief in, in Italy, 200. 
 
 On, residence of Jacob's family in, 219. 
 
 Ophthalmia, prevalence in Egypt, 264,265. 
 
 Opium, nse of, in Egypt, 217 ; as a factor in 
 insanity, 217, 218 ; trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Optical illusions, 222, 405. 
 
 Oracle. See Delphi. 
 
 Gran, arrival at, iiy; the town, 120; power 
 of Jews in, I2g. 
 
 Orange-culture, 45, 49, 62, 65, 93, 12c, 130, 219, 
 
 344.345. 443- 
 Oranijcs, Court of, 40. 
 Oratory, in Egypt, 207 ; of ancient Greece and 
 
 Rome, 530. 
 Orchan, 532. 
 Oruullo, Monte, 11. 
 Orient, the courtesy of the. 326. 
 Oriental entertainment, 299-301. 
 C)rienials, cause of lunacy among, 217, 218. 
 Origen, on the birth of Christ. 398. 
 •' ( iriginal of Things." symbols of the, 230. 
 Orion, aspect of, in Egjpt, 315. 
 Orphanage at Beirut, 495, 496. 
 Orphanages, German, in Jerusalem, 422. 
 Orpheus, figure of, in Elorence cathedral, 170. 
 Orthez, governor of liayonne, 9. 
 Oscans, occupation of Naples, igi. 
 Osioot, O'siortt, O'Siout, 259-265. 
 Osiris, a multinominal deity, 267 ; worship of, 
 
 3'-g ; representation of, in the Boolak 
 
 Alu-eum. 321. 
 " Osiris," the steamer, 337. 
 Ostentation in Italy, 145, 146. 
 Ostrich-farm, an, 220. 
 Ostrich-feathers, trade in, go, 263; use in 
 
 Egyptian costumes, 321. 
 Osyoot, 250-265. 
 Othman IV, sale of the fragments of the 
 
 Colossus of Rhodes by an officer of. 500. 
 0.\, superseded in Egypt by the buffalo, 250. 
 Oxford of Old Egypt, the, 219. 
 Ox-ford, the, 535. 
 
 Padua, conquered by Venice. ij8. 
 
 Paganism, Mohammed's hatred of, 323 ; 
 among Christians, 325. ' 
 
 Pagus, Mount, 505, 508. 
 
 Painting, differences of critics, 45 : influence 
 of Florence on, 167 ; Italy's eminence in, 
 202; renown of Ephesus for, 509. 
 
 Paintings: in Madrid, 23; in the Escorial, 33; 
 in Toledo cathedral, 35 ; Mnrillo's " Con- 
 ception," and " St. Thomas (jiving Alms." 
 45; Murillo's ■' St. .Anthony," 46; Cano's, 
 58; Cabanerro's picture for the Senate 
 Chamber at .Madrid, 63; at Monte Carlo, 
 140; "St. Ambrose," 150; " Theodosius," 
 150; in Milan, 154; in Florence, 169-172; 
 by St. Luke, 172 ; in Naples. 188, 189; from 
 Pompeii. 196; in the Catacombs, 181, 182; 
 in the tomb of Tih, 249, 250; in tombs of 
 Beni-Hassan. 252; of arrival of Joseph's 
 brethren in Egypt. 2^5 ; in the Temple of 
 Denderah,267 ; in the Boolak Museum, 320; 
 in Constantine's church at Bethlehem, 398. 
 
 Palaces : of Genoa. 143, 144; of the Doges. 
 Venice, 165; Vendramin Calergi, 166; of 
 Florence, 169 ; of Said Pasha, 206 ; of 
 Cairo, 215, 216 ; of Caiaphas, 417. 
 
 Venice, 
 144. 
 
 .65. 
 
 Palatine Hill, 177. 
 
 Palazzo ( iiusliniani 
 
 Palazz(j Rosso, the 
 
 Palazzo \'ecchio, the, 170. 
 
 Palestine, harbors, 341 ; the best history of, 
 341, roads, 345; agriculture. 345 ; boun- 
 dary-stones in, 345 ; cactus-hedges, 345. 
 347 ; rural scenery, 345-349 ; olive-cul- 
 ture, 346, 347, 350; flora of, 346, 453; 
 fig-cnltiire, 350; goats and sheep, 350; 
 mountains of, 352 ; Jewish conquest of. 
 352 ; confusion between books of travel in, 
 358 ; difficulties of pedestrianism in, 366 ; 
 climate, 366, 431 ; a Jewish pilgrimage in, 
 ^^97 ; character of country, 398 ; Stanley on 
 its traditions, 398 ; stables in, 398 ; the most 
 imposing speclacle of human creation in, 
 398; return of Jews to, 418; peculiar dcjctrine 
 regarding ihc settlement of Christians in, 
 422 ; marauders, 429 ; ruins, 429, 431 ; 
 changeable features 431 ; slavery, 431; irri- 
 gation, 431 ; polygamy, 433 ; dogs, 433, 443; 
 the most authentic remnant of primitive 
 worship in, 436 ; the prettiest small \illage 
 in, 443 444 ; the dirtiest place in. 446 ; exit 
 from, 472; the Mont Blanc of, 478; Ro- 
 man road from Damascus to, 479. 
 
 Palm Sunday, the Golden Gate on, 374. 
 
 Palm-trees, 222, 226, 240, 243, ^47, 251, 261, 
 266, 279, 312-314, 348, 442. 
 
 Palmyra, Indian commerce through. 158. 
 
 Pan, ruins of temple of, near Banias, 473. 
 
 Panathena;an games, scene of the, 519, 520. 
 
 Paneas, 473. 
 
 Panteon de los Infantes, El. 34. 
 
 Pantheon, the, in the Escorial, 33, 34 ; of 
 modern Italy, 170; of Rcjme. 177, 182. 
 
 Panthers, in the Atlas Mountains, 135. 
 
 Panza, Sancho. 10. 
 
 Papyri, British Museum collection of. 319. 
 
 Papyrus, 471. 
 
 Papyrus rolls. 276. 
 
 Paradise, the best earthly type of, 483 ; de- 
 scribed in the Koran. 4S3 ; an earthly, 
 489. _ ■ _ " 
 
 Paris, ai rival at, i ; anniversary of the coup 
 d'etat in, I ; gayety, i ; blue-blouses. 2 ; 
 socialism, 2 ; the sans-culottes of, 2 ; con- 
 sumption of Bordeaux wines, 2; resem- 
 blance of Madrid to, 19 ; Madrid contrasted 
 with, 29; bronze horses in, 165; charges 
 against women of. 191 ; stock-exchange, 211; 
 Egyptian relics in, 248 ; situation, 275 ; obe- 
 lisk from Luxor at, 277 ; Jerusalem com- 
 pared with, 357 ; likened to Constantinople, 
 547 ; the Exposition, 573. 
 
 Parnassus, 528. 
 
 Parnes, Mount, 524. 
 
 Parthenon, compared with the Temple of 
 Diana, 511 ; compared with the Propj laea, 
 520 ; views from the, 521 ; remains in Lon- 
 don, 521 ; the dead religion of the, 522 ; 
 distant view of the, 528. 
 
 Parthians, capture Jeiiisalem, 355. 
 
 Partridges, on shores of the Dead Sea, 409. 
 
 Pasajes, harbor of, 13. 
 
 Paschal Iambs. Josephus's method of esti- 
 mating population by the sale of, 357. 
 
 Passion, an Italian characteristic. 200,201. 
 
 Passover, the, a relic of. 144 ; the first in the 
 Promised Land, 413 ; ainong the Samaritans 
 at Gerizim, 436 ; Samaritan celebrations of 
 the Feast of the, 440. 
 
 Patara, St. P.tul's sailing from, 498. 
 
Index. 
 
 603 
 
 Patience, among Italians, 200 ; a monument 
 of, 287. 
 
 Patmos, the mystery and fascination of, 
 501-503 ; likened to Gibraltar, 502 ; St. 
 John's release from, 513. 
 
 Patriarch of Jerusalem, visit to the, 419. 
 
 Patriotism, (Ireek, 529. 
 
 Pan, situation, climale, etc., 8; imprison- 
 ment of Calvin at, 8 ; protid boast of, g. 
 
 Paul, St., paintings of, in Florence. 171 ; 
 stolen honors of, 178; journey to Rome, 
 181 ; festival of, 186 ; tomb. 186 ; charges 
 against the morals of the Roman world, 191; 
 miracles wrought by, 203 : the chain where- 
 with he was bound, 203 ; execution, 203 ; 
 characterization of the Cretans, 206 ; on 
 Jerusalem, 351 ; Epistle to the Hebrews, 
 386 ; supposed scene of his conversion, 
 479 ; relation to Damascus, 480 ; escape 
 from Damascus, 488, 489 ; " Life and 
 Epistles," quoted, 490; the terrible voy- 
 age of, 498, 501 ; at Cyprus, 498 ; jour- 
 ney from Caesarea to Jerusalem, 498 ; men- 
 tion of Coos, 501 ; impeached by Demetrius, 
 512; footsteps of, 512-514; supposed im- 
 prisonment of, 513 ; Timothy's companion- 
 ship with, 513; address at Miletus, 513; 
 Epistles to the Corinthians and Ephesians, 
 514; influence of Ephesuson, 514; in Athens, 
 521, 522 ; the living spirit of, 521, 522 ; the 
 Corinth of his time, 527; Epistle to the 
 Thessalonians. 531. 
 
 Paula, works and death of, 399. 
 
 Pavia, view of, from Milan cathedral, 153. 
 
 Pearls, ancient Egyptian. 321. 
 
 Peas, the legend of the field of, 397. 
 
 Peddlers, in Cairo, 210, 211. 
 
 Pedestrianism. difficulties of, m Palestine, 366. 
 
 Pedro the Cruel, 49. 
 
 Peking, the festivals of. 544. 
 
 Pelagius, trial of. for heresy, 347. 
 
 Pelicans, on the Nile. 244, 250; at Lake Huleh, 
 
 47.2- .... 
 
 Pellico, Silvio, imprisonment of. 165. 
 
 Peloponnesian mountains, the. 528. 
 
 Peloponnesus, the war of independence in the, 
 516; geographical position, 524. 
 
 Pendulum, discovery of its philosophy, 167. 
 
 Penitent thief, the, alleged birthplace, 349 ; 
 altar to, 394. 
 
 Pentateuch, the, description of Rachel's tomb 
 in, 397; the Sani.aritan Code.v, 439, 440; 
 Samaritan belief in, 440. 
 
 Pepin, King, tomb of, 154. 
 
 Pera, 536. 
 
 Perfumes, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Pericles, the city of, 523. 
 
 Persecution. Mohammed's views on, 323. 
 
 Persia, Indian commerce through, 15S ; use 
 of hasheesh in, 218 ; flight of Samaritan-, to, 
 440 ; wars with (ireece, 527. 
 
 Persian religion, mi.vtiire of, in Mohammedan- 
 ism, 323. 
 
 Persians, sieges of Karnak by, 282 ; battle- 
 fields in Egypt, 288 ; conquest of Jerusa- 
 lem, 356; destroy the church of the tomb 
 of the Virgin, 365 ; raids on the convent of 
 Mar Saba, 403, 404 ; colonization of Cyprus, 
 498 ; in Smyrna, 506 ; strife for Byzantium, 
 536; in Constantinople, 547; stained-glass 
 windows captured from, 550 ; at Robert 
 College, 555. 
 
 Perthusiers, on the approach to Constanti- 
 nople, 532. 
 
 Pesth, location, J72. 
 
 Peter, St., description of the earth at time of 
 the Flood, 158, 159; statue of, i6g, 178; 
 imprisonment, i8i ; tomb, 182, 186; re- 
 buked for running away from Rome, 203; 
 his visit to Joppa, 342 ; resi<leiice with 
 Simon the Tanner, 342, 343 ; heals F.neas, 
 347 ; sleeping-place of, 365 ; healing the 
 lame man, 374 ; on the tomb of David, 417 ; 
 the cock's warning to, 417; pays tribute- 
 money, 468 ; the fishing of, 468 ; essays to 
 walk on the water, 468 ; Christ's finding at 
 Capernaum, 468 ; Christ's declaration to, 
 475 ; at the Transfiguration, 476. 
 
 Peter the Great, 348. 
 
 Petrie, W.M. F.^ Egyptologist, 334, 335. 
 
 Petros, a literal, 181. 
 
 Phaleron, the bay of, 521. 
 
 Pharaoh's cat, 270. 
 
 Pharaoh's daughter, the finding of Moses by, 
 214 ; discovery of Moses, 241. 
 
 Pharos, site of, 207. 
 
 Pharpar, River, 470, 480. 
 
 Phidias, figure of, in Florence cathedral, 170 ; 
 works of, 520 ; scene of his labors, 523 ; 
 statue of Apollo by, 560. 
 
 Philadelphia, situation of, 275 ; travelers 
 from, at Tiberias, 462. 
 
 Philadelphus. Ptolemy, commences the 
 Temple of Isis, 30;). 
 
 Phila;, 306-309 ; convent of Mar Saba con- 
 trasted with, 400 
 
 Philip. St., monuments and p.jrtraits of, i6g ; 
 preaches in Samaria, 440. 
 
 Philip of Macedon, siege of Byzantium by, 
 536; founder of Philippopolis, 567. 
 
 Philippopolis, 567, 568. 
 
 Philip the Tetrarch, founds Caesarea Phil- 
 ippi, 473. 
 
 Philip II, builds the Escorial. 30; char- 
 acter, 30, 33 ; Protestant occupation of his 
 house, 72. 
 
 Philip III, of Spain, statue of, 20. 
 
 Philip V, king of Spain, no. 
 
 Philistines, return the Ark of the Covenant, 
 350; scene of David's defeat of the, 396; 
 theft of the ark by, 435 ; Saul's last battle 
 against, 443, 446. 
 
 Phillips Andover .Academy, the Principal of, 
 205. See also Banckoft, C. F. P. 
 
 Philosophers, the Forest of, 507. 
 
 Philosophy, in Egypt, 207 ; differing systems 
 of Mohammedan, 325 ; in Smyrna, 507 : 
 renown of Ephesus for, 509 ; of ancient 
 Greece and Rome, 530. 
 
 Philostratus. description of Ephesus, 511. 
 
 Phocis, distant view of, 528. 
 
 Phoenicians, commerce with Seville, 43 ; ad- 
 mixture in Spanish population, 66 ; found 
 Cadiz, 52 ; infltiences in .Spain, 52 ; ideas 
 about Gibraltar, 109; at Gibraltar, 113; 
 possession of Jaffa. 342 ; name for Dan, 472; 
 a civilization at Banias older than, 473 ; 
 founders of Beirut, 492 ; colonization of 
 Cyprus. 498. 
 
 Photographs, my collection of, 303 ; sale of, 
 by clergymen, 439. 
 
 Physicia^i, hindrances to successful practice, 
 317. 318; a polyglot, 538. 
 
 Physicians, of Egypt, 207 ; the father of all, 
 500- 
 
 Physiognomy, relation of blindness to, 189 ; 
 relation of expression of character, 189, 190. 
 
 Piano, a celebrated, 572. 
 
6o4 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Pic (lu Midi cle Bigorre, 8. 
 
 Pic du Midi d'Ossau, 8. 
 
 Picture-galleries: Madrid, 23; Seville, 45; 
 Florence, 167 ; IJresdeii, 186. 
 
 Pierce, Edward L., at I'eirut, 495. 
 
 Pierce, Kranklin. visit to Gibraltar, 105. 
 
 Pigeons, an aristocratic breed of, 162. 
 
 Pilate, Pontius, site of the judgment hall of, 
 385 ; the Arch of, 385. 
 
 Pilgrimages, in Spain, 68; claims of benefits 
 from, 125 ; to Lorelto, 203. 
 
 Pilgrims, at Lourdes, 4, 7 ; at Betbarram, 7 ; 
 the scallop-shell sign of, 343 ; a famous road 
 of, 346; to Jerusalem, 348; robbery of, 
 350 ; tombs of, at Jerusalem, 361 ; on the Via 
 Dolorosa, 385 ; custom regarding winding- 
 sheets, 390 ; the footworn paths of, 410 ; 
 bands of, 413, 414 ; Russian, 419 ; accommo- 
 dations for, in the Cjreek monasteries in 
 Syria, 419; to Mount Athos, 531, 532; to 
 Joshua's tomb, 548. 
 
 Pillars of Hercules, 81, 109, 112. 
 
 Pindar, on the rising of Rhodes from beneath 
 the sea, 500. 
 
 Pine-tree, the northern, 314. 
 
 Pira;us, the, 515; railway to Athens from, 
 515 ; view from the Parthenon, 521 ; reduc- 
 tion of journey from Messina to, 524 ; re- 
 turn to, 531. 
 
 Pirates, Algerine, 127, 128, 350. 
 
 Pisa, geology of, 109. 
 
 Pisgah, Mount, 405. 
 
 Pius IX, recognizes the miracles at Lourdes, 4. 
 
 Pizarro, embarkation from Seville, 49. 
 
 Place de la Concorde, Paris, Luxor obelisk in, 
 
 277- 
 Place du Carrousel, Paris, bronze horses in. 
 
 Plague, the, a Pope s method of checking, 185; 
 
 at Naples, 192 ; at Jaffa, 344. 
 Plagues, the generating center of. 507. 
 Plane-tree, the largest in the world. 484. 
 Plato, figure of, in Florence cathedral, 170; 
 
 at Heliopolis, 219 ; scene of his teachings, 
 
 523- 
 
 Platte, River, compared with the Nile, 239. 
 
 Plaza Major, Madrid, the, 20; auto-da-fe in, 23. 
 
 Pliny, geographical knowledge of, 45 ; de- 
 scription of the eruption of Vesuvius, 196 ; 
 the "Natural History" of, 269; records 
 accident to statue of Memnon, 297. 
 
 Plow, the old-fashioned, of Scripture, 348. 
 
 Plows, in Morocco, 99. 
 
 Plum-trees, at Jaffa, 344. 
 
 Pluto, painting of, in Florence, 171. 
 
 PlynKjuth fjrethren, in Italy, 204. 
 
 Pneumonia, prevalence in Madrid, ig. 
 
 Pnyx, the hill of the, 522. 
 
 Po, River, 158. 
 
 Poet, the first to w'rile for money, 500. 
 
 Poetry, influence of P'lorence on, 167 ; Italy's 
 eminence in, 202 ; in Egypt, 207 ; study of, 
 in Cairo, 326 ; of ancient Greece and Rome, 
 
 530- 
 Poets, a paradise for, 475. 
 Point of Quails, the, 548. 
 Poisoned weapons, 305. 
 Poland, emigration of Jews to Tiberias from, 
 
 465- 
 Police, in Spain, 70. 
 Polish synagogue at Jerusalem, 418. 
 Politeness, Spanish, 67 ; in Tangier, 86 ; in 
 
 Italy, 200. 
 Politics, position of Naples in, 191. 
 
 Polo, Marco, statue at Milan, 154. 
 
 Polycarp, St., the martyrdom of, 508 ; tomb, 
 508. 
 
 Polytechnic Institute, Athens, 522. 
 
 Polytheism. Mohammed's hatred of, 323. 
 
 Pompeii, remains of, 189, 190, 196-199 ; de- 
 struction, 195, 197-195 ; commerce. 197; 
 loss of life at, 197; likeness to Moorish 
 towns, 197, II, 8 ; excavations at. 197-199; 
 compared with American cities regarding 
 vice, 198; amphitheater at, 198; wickedness, 
 198, 199 ; lesson of, 199; a lesson from, 315. 
 
 Pompey, 509. 
 
 Pompey's Pillar, 207. ' 
 
 Pools : of Gihon, the, 358, 361, 417 ; of Siloam, 
 the. 361, 362 ; of Solomon, the, 358, 361. 
 
 Pope, attitude toward bullfights, 80; a virtual 
 prisoner, 186. 
 
 Population, how computed at Nijni No\ gorod, 
 
 357- 
 
 Porcelain, factory in Seville, 44. 
 
 Porch of Justice, Alhambra, 52. 
 
 Pork-packers, the aristocracx' of, 571. 
 
 Porta Judiciara, the, 386. 
 
 Porter, Rev. John L., opinion on site of Cana 
 of Galilee, 458. 
 
 Port Said, distance from Suez to, 337 ; the 
 town of, 338 ; departure from. 338. 
 
 Portugal, bullfight in honor of the King of. 
 79 ; blackmailed by Algiers, 127. 
 
 Portuguese Jews in Tiberias, 465. 
 
 Posilippo, \ irgil's work on the, 192. 
 
 Post, Dr. George F., work of, at Beirut, 495. 
 
 Poti-pherah, priest of On, 219. 
 
 Pottery, of Asyoot, 263. 
 
 Prado, El, Madrid, 20. 
 
 Prairies, difference between the Libyan 
 desert and, 294. 
 
 Praxiteles outdone, 150. 
 
 Prayer, in Cairo, 212 ; Mohammedan obliga- 
 tions of, 324; the Mohammedan call to, 550. 
 
 Prayers, the Mohammedan idea of the rela- 
 tive value of, 381. 
 
 Preaching, the problem of earning a livelihocd 
 and, 451, 452. 
 
 Precipitation, Mounts of, 455. 
 
 Precocious youth, a, 444, 445. 
 
 Predestination, Mohammedan belief in, 323. 
 
 Presbyterian Church of Scotland, missinn in 
 Tiberias, 465 ; Presbyterians, at Gibraltar, 
 108 ; in Italy, 204. 
 
 Prescott. William H., Spanish histories of. 10. 
 
 Presidents, the private and public lives of, 
 contrasted, 573. 
 
 Press, the, freedom of, in Italy, 202 ; Turkish 
 censorship of, 562-565. 
 
 Pretorium, disputed site of, in Jerusalem, 385- 
 
 Prickly pears, hedges of, at Sulem, 443. 
 
 Pride, the national characteristic of Spain, 44. 
 
 Priestcraft, in Bulgaria, 568. 
 
 Priests, a paradise of, 10 ; persecutions by, 64; 
 characteristics in Spain, 71 ; bearded, 129; 
 in Cairo. 212; in Heliopolis, 219; a sup- 
 posed trick of, 297 ; Coptic, 331 ; Armenian, 
 419, 420, 549 ; in the Abyssinian Church, 
 421 ; privileges of Maronite, 478 ; ignorance 
 of Greek, 550. 
 
 Prim, General, assassination of. 29. 
 
 Prime jNIinister, fate of an unfaithful, 213. 
 
 Primitive worship, the most authentic rem- 
 nant of, in Palestine, 436. 
 
 " Prince Abbas," the steamer, 241-243. 
 
 " Principalities of the Danube, The," 571. 
 
 Prion, Mount, 51*0, 513. 
 
Index. 
 
 605 
 
 Priscilla, at Ephesus, 512. 
 
 Procida, iilana of. 188. 
 
 Prodigal son, the food of the, 350; a paral- 
 lel to the parable of the, 55:7. 
 
 Promenade des Anglais, at Nice, 139. 
 
 Promised Land, a synoptical table of, 282 ; 
 the first passover in the, 413. See also 
 Canaan; Israelites; Jews. 
 
 Propaganda, the College of the, 182. 
 
 Prophecies, peculiar doctrine based on the, 422. 
 
 Prophets, Mohammedan belief in, 323 ; re- 
 puted tombs of forty, 347 ; the source of 
 their terrible figures, 361 ; the Mohammed- 
 an, 553, 554. 
 
 Propylaea, compared with the Parthenon, 520. 
 
 Propylon, of Karnak, 279. 
 
 Protection system, in Morocco, 98. 
 
 Protective tariff, the inconveniences of a, 10. 
 
 "Protector of the Father of the Faithful," 
 the, 559. _ _ . 
 
 Protestant Church, miracles in, 8 ; worship in 
 Madrid, 28, 29 ; activities in Spain, 71-73 ; 
 work in Italy, 203, 204 ; indifference toward 
 Jerusalem, 421, 422. 
 
 Protestant College at Beirut, 466. 
 
 Protestant colony, near Jaffa, 422. 
 
 Protestant Episcopal Church, mission at Ti- 
 berias, 466. 
 
 Protestantism, the most hopeless work under- 
 taken by, 466 ; jealousy of the Greek and 
 Armenian Churches of, 555. 
 
 Protestant missions, in Egypt, 332, 333 ; in 
 Tiberias, 465, 466 ; in Damascus, 489 ; in 
 Smyrna, 507. 
 
 Protestants, Spanish charges of cruelty 
 against, 79 ; scoffers among, 325 ; unbelief 
 among, 325; in Presbyterian mission schools 
 of Egypt, 332; a Mohammedan opinion of, 
 333 ; at \abulus, 438 ; in Nazareth, 453 ; 
 status in Turkey, 560. 
 
 *' Providential" institutions, 28. 
 
 Prussia, interest in the Suez Canal. 336; sup- 
 ports Protestant bishopric at Jerusalem, 421. 
 
 " Psalms." quoted, 487. 
 
 Psammitichus. experiment with the alleged 
 sources of the Nile, 310. 
 
 Ptolemy, geographical knowledge of, 45 ; fig- 
 ure of, in Florence cathedral, 170; siege of 
 Thebes, 282. 
 
 Ptolemy XI, supposed foundation of Temple 
 of Denderah under, 267. 
 
 Ptolemy Lathyrus, sacks Thebes, 277 ; breaks 
 the statue of Memnon, 297. 
 
 Ptolemy Philadelphus, commences the Tem- 
 ple of Isis, 309; Ephesus and, 509. 
 
 Ptolemy Philopater, temple of, 288. 
 
 Ptolemys, remains of the time of the, 320; 
 capture of Jerusalem by the, 355. 
 
 Puerta del Sol. Madrid, 20. 
 
 Pumice-stone from Vesuvius, 197. 
 
 Punch and Judy, in Venice, 166. 
 
 Purgatory, the blessed works of the, 26, 27. 
 
 Purple robe, the, 385. 
 
 Pylons, at Karnak. 276. 
 
 Pyramid, the False, 2so. 
 
 Pyramid of Maydoom, the. 250. 
 
 Pyramids, the, 221-237 ; distant view of, 212 ; 
 road from Cairo to. 221 ; impressions of, 
 222 ; visit to the interior, 227, 228 ; baseball 
 at, 228 ; their building, purpose, and histo- 
 ry, 229-231 ; Mark Twain at the. 236, 237; 
 ascent of, 237 ; visit to. a type of human 
 life. 237 ; exploration of, 247 ; of Sakkara. 
 248 ; the material of the. 302 ; good-bye to 
 
 the land of, 338 ; contrasted with the con- 
 vent of .Mar Saba, 400; reasons for Egyp- 
 tian, 538. 
 Pyrenees, the, scenery of, 3, 8, ii ; crossed 
 by Vandals, 52. 
 
 Quails, the Point of, 548. 
 
 " Quaker City," the pilgrimage in the, 422. 
 
 Quarries, near Jerusalem, 373. 
 
 Quarrying, ingenicus methods of, 306. 
 
 Quebec, capture of, 11 ; likened to Jaffa, 341. 
 
 Queen, a widowed, 166. 
 
 Queen of Spain's Chair, 113, 114. 
 
 Queen of the .Adriatic, the, 158, 166. 
 
 Queen's Chamber, the, in the Pyramid of 
 
 Cheops, 227. 
 Queen's Row, Gibraltar, 115. 
 Quinces, at Jaffa, 344. 
 Quirinal Hill, 177. 
 Quixote, Don, 10, 25, 395. 
 
 Rachel, death and tomb of, 397. 
 
 Ra-Km-Ka, wooden statue of, 320. 
 
 Rahman, Mohammed .-Vbdel, 215, 221. 
 
 Railroad, a mountain, 13. 
 
 Railroads, up Vesuvius, 193. 
 
 Rain, scarcity of. in Egypt, 336; purity of, 
 409 ; experience in Palestine, 432. 
 
 Rainbow, fate of scientific article on the, 562. 
 
 Raising of the CrosS, the Chapel of the, 394. 
 
 Ramah, 370. 
 
 Ramallah, 430. 
 
 Rameses I, temple dedicated to, 284. 
 
 Rameses II, statues of, 244, 277, 287. 319; 
 coffin of the favorite son of, 248 ; splendid 
 reign of, 276; work at Karnak, 277 ; poem 
 commemorating, 280 ; finishes Temple of 
 Koornah, 284 ; temple of, 284 ; invasion of 
 Syria, 284, 287 ; conquest of the world, 287 ; 
 mummy of, 319 ; Egyptian art under, 322. 
 
 Rameses III, last warrior king of Egypt, 
 276 ; tomb, 292. 
 
 " Rameses," the steamer, 316. 
 
 Rameseum, the, 284-2S7. 
 
 Ramleh, Tower of, 347; monasteries in, 348. 
 
 Raphael, paintings at Madrid. 23 ; statue at 
 Milin, 1,4; in Florence, 167 ; paintings by, 
 in Fliirence, 171; tomb. 178; "Loggie. ' 186; 
 "Madonna," 186; " Stanze," 186; •'Trans- 
 figuration," 186. 
 
 Raphael, St., apparition of, 40 ; monimient 
 to, 40 ; Mohammedan archangel, 543. 
 
 Rappili, 197. 
 
 Rauba Capen, 139. 
 
 Ravi, Signor, minister of Methodist church 
 at Milan, 157. 
 
 Rayah Greeks, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Reha. the modern town of, 413; iniquities of, 
 413. 
 
 Rehoboam, scene of his division of the king- 
 dom with Jeroboam, 438. 
 
 Religion, allegorical figure on Columbus's 
 statue, 143; influence of Rome on, 177; 
 how awakened in Egypt. 240: rise and de- 
 cay of Egyptian. 322; the charm of, 503. 
 
 Religious conversation, a memorable, 553. 554. 
 
 Religious freedom, in Spain, 71; in Smyrna. 
 
 5°7-. . . . „ . ^ 
 
 Religious instruction, in Cairo. 320. 
 Religious persecution, in Spain. 72. 
 " Reliques of the Christ." quoted, 456,457. 
 Remittent fever, in Cyprus. 498. 
 Renaissance, the center of the, 167. 
 Renaud deChatillon, defeated by Saladin, 487. 
 
oo6 
 
 Travels tn Three Continents. 
 
 " Researches and Discoveries in Cyprus," 499. 
 
 Resurrection of Christ, site of the, 389. 
 
 Resiirreclicin of the iioiiy, Kgypiian igiifi- 
 rauce of the, 231 ; Moliammedan belief in 
 the, 323 ; tradition concerning the, 362. 
 
 Reuben, territory of, 370. 
 
 Revelation, Mohammedan belief in written, 
 323 ; claim of direct, in American colony in 
 Jerusalem, 425. 
 
 Revelation of St. John, quoted, 442; scene 
 of the, 501, 502. 
 
 Reverence, lack of, among Copts, 331 ; a nat- 
 ural feeling of, 366. See also Irreverence. 
 
 Revivalists, sale of photographs of, 439. 
 
 Rey, General, delcnse of San Sebastian, 11. 
 
 Rhetoric, in Cairo, 326; in Smyrna. 507. 
 
 Kheuniatism, hot-bath cure at Tiberias, 461. 
 
 Rhine, Riser, 310, 370; robbers of, 350, 441. 
 
 Rhodes, 499, 500; sea-born tradition of, 500. 
 
 Rhone, River, junction with the SaSne, 239. 
 
 Rice, served in oriental style, 301. 
 
 Richard I, exploits against Saladin, 487; 
 conquest of Cyprus by, 498. 
 
 Richard III, 49. 
 
 Riggs, Dr. Elias, translator of the Bible into 
 Bulgarian, 568. 
 
 Rings, ancient Egyptian, 320, 321. 
 
 Riots, among Cairo students, 326. 
 
 Riviera, the French, 137-142 ; the Italian, 143. 
 
 Rivvaks, 325. 
 
 Rizpah, the unparalleled vigil of, 429. 
 
 Robbers, a stronghold of, near Jenin, 441. 
 
 Robbers' Glen, the, 432. 
 
 Robbers' Spring, the, 432. 
 
 Robbery, in Spain, 70; in Egj'pt, 311,312; 
 in camp, 473, 474. 
 
 Robert, Christopher R., founder of Robert 
 College, 554. 
 
 Robert College, 538, 539, 554. 
 
 Rob'nson, Prof. Edward, on the site of Ari- 
 mathea, 347 ; identifies Kirjath-jearim, 
 350 ; explorations of, 362 ; on the site of 
 Golgotha, 389 ; swimming in the Dead Sea, 
 406 ; on the site of Cana, 458. 
 
 Rock. Dome of the, 378, 381 ; Peter the, 475. 
 
 Rock tombs, permanency, in Syria, 396, 397. 
 
 Rocky Mountains, experiences in the, com- 
 pared with Palestine, 432. 
 
 Roda, island of, 214; sugar-factory at, 257, 258. 
 
 Roderick, slain by the Saracens, 55. 
 
 Rogers, Samuel, fondness for Naples, 187 ; 
 tribute to Memory, 503. 
 
 Romaic language, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Roman architecture, compared with Moorish, 
 
 51- 
 
 Roman baths, in Buda-Pesth, 572. 
 
 Roman Catholic Church, the, miracles in, 8 ; 
 a beneficent aspect of, 44 ; in Spain, 71, 72 ; 
 attitude toward bullfights, 80; at Gibral- 
 tar, 108; condition in Algiers, 122; diplo- 
 macy, 129; bearded priests, 129; strength, 
 182; influence in Italy, 204 ; claim for the 
 Virgin's Tree, 219 ; renegades in the, 325 ; 
 in Egypt, 332, 333 ; compared with the 
 Greek Church, 333 ; in Jerusalem, 421 ; 
 claim regarding the house of the Virgin, 
 454 ; relations of the Maronites with, 478 ; 
 France the guardian of, 491 ; mission work 
 in Syria, 495. 
 
 Roman Catholics, in Presbyterian mission 
 schools of Egypt, 332 ; their appellation in 
 the East. 394; in Smyrna, 507; in Con- 
 stantinople, 547. 
 
 Roman civilization, lights on ancient, 189. 
 
 Roman domestic life, ancient, 199. 
 
 Roman mythology, compared with Egyptian, 
 
 320. 
 
 Roman remains, at Malaga, 65; at Asyoot, 264. 
 
 Romans, struggle with Visigoths, 52; admix- 
 ture in .Spanish population, 66; limitations 
 of their explorations, 109 ; at Gibraltar, 
 113; occupation of Naples, igi; battle- 
 fields of, in Egypt. 288 ; wars with Samari- 
 tans, 440 ; road built by, from Damascus to 
 Palestine and Egypt, 479; colonization of 
 C^yprus, 498; massacre of , ordered byMith- 
 ridates. 501. 
 
 Rome, influence in Seville, 43; compared to 
 Ceuta, 81; art of, 167; the Encyclopedic 
 City, 174-186 ; Nero and the burning of, 
 177; influence of, i8i ; the Angel of. 186; 
 New, 186; a riot in, 201 ; the Pyramids old- 
 er than, 22S ; catacombs, 228 ; difference be- 
 tween Jerusalem and, 355 ; triumphal arch 
 of Titus in. 355 ; recaptures Jerusalem, 355 ; 
 St. Jerome's pilgrimage to Syria from, 399; 
 the depositary of the holy manger in, 399; 
 Maronite College in, 478 ; possession of 
 Samos by, 503; martyrdom of St. Ignatius 
 in, 508 ; relics of, at Corinth, 527 ; destroys 
 Corinth, 527 ; secret of her ancient glory, 
 530; Constantinople a rival to, 532; similar- 
 ity between Stamboul and, 536; acquisi- 
 tion of Constantinople, 536 ; threatened at- 
 tack of Gauls on, 560. 
 
 Rosaries, from the Garden of Gethsemane, 
 365; manufacture of, at Bethlehem, 397. 
 
 Rose of Sharon, the, 346. 
 
 Roses, the venders of, in Cairo, 211 ; in Janu- 
 ary, 216; of Damascus, 490. 
 
 Rosetta Stone, copy of inscription on the, 309. 
 
 Rothschilds, benefactions, in Jerusalem, 418. 
 
 Roumelia, status under the Treaty of Berlin, 
 567, 568. . 
 
 Roumeli Hissar, 554. 
 
 Route en Roi, the, 29. 
 
 Rovigo, conquered by Venice, 158. 
 
 Royal Geographical Society, Thompson's re- 
 port to, 94, 97. 
 
 Rozinante, 395. 
 
 Rubens, paintings by, in Florence, 171. 
 
 Rudolph, suicide of the Archduke, 573. 
 
 Rufus, Q. F., award by, 144. 
 
 Rugs, Smyrna, 505, 506. 
 
 Ruins, how to estimate the size of, 280. 
 
 Russia, consumption of Bordeaux wines, 2; 
 a problem, 10: foundling asylums in, 69; 
 belief in. regarding lunatics, 125 ; naval ac- 
 tion at Navarino, ^05; catacombs in, 228; 
 Czar of, 236, 544 ; difference between the 
 Libyan desert and the steppes of. 294 ; the 
 patron of the convent of Mar Saba. 403 ; 
 supports the Russo-Greek Church in Sy- 
 ria, 419; attacks Constantinople, 536; Ar- 
 menian churches in, 549 ; corn-trade of, 549; 
 magnificence of, 557; attitude toward Prot- 
 estants, 560 ; censorship of the press in, 562. 
 
 Russian Church, musical services of, 420, 449. 
 
 Russian convent on Mount Tabor, 449, 450. 
 
 Russian Jews in Tiberias, 465. 
 
 Russian " National Church, relations with 
 Orthodox Greek Church, 348. 
 
 Russian pilgrims, 414. 
 
 Russians, tower on the Mount of Olives, 370; 
 at Robert College, 555. 
 
 Russo-Greek Church, in Syria, 419. 
 
 Ruth, scene of the story of, 397 ; how het 
 story is viewed in Tu:key, 562. 
 
Index. 
 
 607 
 
 Sabbath-breakers, a paradise of, 43. 
 
 Sabbath-breaking, 62 ; in Spain, 74, 79, 80 ; 
 Marseilles, 137, 138; Venice, 162, 166. 
 
 Sabbath rest on the shores of Galilee, 461, 
 462, 465, 466. 
 
 Sabbath-schools, in Egypt, 333. 
 
 " Sable V'enuses," 306. 
 
 Saco River, the Jordan likened to the, 467. 
 
 Sacred cows, in Asyoot, 262. 
 
 Sacrilege, an English idea of, 20S. 
 
 " Sacrilegious Plunder, the Depository of the 
 Results of," 209. 
 
 Sacro Catino, the, 144. 
 
 Saddlers' Bazaar, Damascus, the, 4S3, 484. 
 
 Safed, 466. 
 
 Sagasta, Praxedes M., political fortunes of, 25. 
 
 Sab, tomb of governor of province of, 252. 
 
 Sahara, Desert of, 120, 293. 
 
 Said Pasha, ruined palace of, 206 ; grants fir- 
 man of concession to Lesseps, 336. 
 
 Sailors, funeral services for, 126 ; immoral 
 influence of, 33S. 
 
 St. Andrea, birthplace of Columbus, 143. 
 
 St. -■Xnne, church of, at Jerusalem, 366, 382. 
 
 St. Bartholomew, massacre of, g. 
 
 St. Bernard, the Great, view of from Milan 
 Cathedral, 153. 
 
 St. Elias, Mount, 205. 
 
 St. Elmo, hills of, 192. 
 
 St. George's Hall, Gibraltar, 112. 
 
 St. John Lateran, church of, 385. 
 
 St. Lawrence, rapids of. compared with the 
 First Cataract, 309. 
 
 St. Lazarus, church of. at Lanarca, 498. 
 
 St. Longinus, Chapel of, 394. 
 
 St. .Martin. Cape, 9. 
 
 St. Michael, convent of, 4x9. 
 
 St. Nicholas, convent of. 419. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, how to view, 370. 
 
 St. Paul Without the Walls, Rome, 186; a 
 venerated chain at, 203. 
 
 St. Peter's church, Rome, compared with 
 cathedral of Seville. 46 ; compared with 
 cathedral of Milan. 149 ; the dome of, 169 ; 
 a bewildering melange in, 182 ; inscription 
 in, 475 ; compared with Santa Sophia, 543. 
 
 St. Petersburg, Wouverman's paintings at, 23; 
 situation, 275 ; saving in distance to Bom- 
 bay from, via Suez Canal, 338. 
 
 St. Philip, cathedral of, Algiers, 122. 
 
 St. Polycarp, the church of, 508. 
 
 St. Quentin, battle of, 30. 
 
 St. Raphiel, Napoleon's embarkation for 
 Elba from. 138. 
 
 Saints, tombs in Algeria, 128. 
 
 Saints — or — sinners ? 1S2. 
 
 St. Spiridon, convent of, 419. 
 
 St. Stephen, church of, at Philee, 309. 
 
 St. Theodore, convent of, 419. 
 
 St. Vitus's dance, equine, 395. 
 
 Sais, Minerv.a's treasury at, 310. 
 
 Sakeeyeh, the, 274. 
 
 Sakkara, the cemetery of, 247-250 ; tombs at, 
 252,; Tomb of the Bulls at, 319 ; wooden 
 statue from, 320. 
 
 Saladin, capture of Jerusalem by, 356, 487 ; 
 victory of, at Horns of Hattin, 461 ; feats 
 and character of, 487. See also Crus.-\d- I 
 ERS ; Sar.\cens. 1 
 
 Salaheddin, builder of citadel of Cairo, 212. 
 
 Salahiyeh, Mohammedan legends about. 489. I 
 
 Salamanca, the bull-ring of, 74 ; decay of the 
 University of, 74. 1 
 
 Salamis, 515, 521, 524, 528. I 
 
 I Salmond, Prof., on the Seven Churches in 
 Asia, 508. 
 
 .Salonica, city and gulf of, 531. 
 
 Salt, in Morocco. 89, go; the supply of Jeru- 
 salem, 406 ; of the Dead Sea, 406, 40Q ; pil- 
 lars of, 409 ; incrustations on the plains of 
 Jordan, 410. 
 
 Salt Lake City, visit to, 324. 
 
 Samaria, view of, from Ramleh, 347 ; moun- 
 tains of, 347, 435,442 ; road from Jerusalem 
 to, 374; the woman of, 436,438; Hosea's 
 prophecy concerning, 440 ; apo.stolic history 
 of, 440 , hill of, 440 ; rivalry between Naza- 
 reth and, 440; gardens of, 441 ; boundary 
 between Galilee and, 441 ; fig-culture, 442. 
 
 Samaritan, traditional scene of the parable of 
 the Good, 314. 
 
 Samaritan Codex of the Pentateuch, 439,440. 
 
 Samaritans, agree as to the site of Jacob's 
 Well, 435 ; beast of the Passover among, at 
 Gerizim. 436 ; dwelling-place of, 438 ; the 
 sacred place of the. 438 ; physical charac- 
 teristics, 438, 439 ; numbers, 438, 440 ; clean- 
 liness, 439 ; hatred of the Jews, 440 ; wars 
 of, 440; religious beliefs, 440. 
 
 Samos, 502, 503. 
 
 Samothracia, 532. 
 
 Samson, portraits of, in Florence, 171. 
 
 Samuel, supposed tomb of the prophet, 350; 
 birthplace, 370 ; burial-place of, 370 ; loca- 
 tion of Rachel's tomb according to, 397; 
 mission to Bethlehem, 397, 398 ; Hannah's 
 visits to, 434. 
 
 "Samuel." quoted, 480. 
 
 San .-\mbrogio, church of, at Milan, 154. 
 
 San -Angelo, Monte, 188. 
 
 San Antonio River, analogy between the 
 Jordan and the, 474. 
 
 San Carlo Borromeo, relics of, 150. 
 
 Sancho Panza, 10. 
 
 Sand, preservative influence of, 231 ; obscura- 
 tion of the Sphinx by, 232. 
 
 Sandal, the Holy Virgin's, 26-28. 
 
 Sandstorm, an F^gyptian, 335. 
 
 Sandwich Islands, leprosy in the, 426. 
 
 Sanhedrim, conventions of. in Tiberias, 465. 
 
 Sanity, the borderland between mental aber- 
 ration and, 425. 
 
 San Jose, the estate of, 64, 65. 
 
 San Juan de Dios. lunatic and saint, 58. 
 
 San Lorenzo, military influence of, 30 ; cathe- 
 dral of Genoa. 144. 
 
 San Marco, church and piazza of, Venice, 162. 
 
 San Pedro River, analogy between the Jor- 
 dan and the, 474. 
 
 San Roque, 114. 
 
 San Sebastian, situation, ii; bull-ring of. ti; 
 British siege and capture of. 11 : a water- 
 ing-place, 12; .-Xmerican Board schools at, 12. 
 
 Santa Croce, church of, Florence, 170; the 
 letters 1 H .S on, 172. 
 
 Santa Sophia, mosque of, 536, 540-543; in- 
 terior. 543 ; compared with St. Peter's, 
 Ronie. 543 : a rival of, ^50. 
 
 Sa8ne, River, junction with the Rhone, 23^. 
 
 Saracens, conquests of, 55; occupation of 
 .\tonte Carlo, 140 : remains at Assouan, 305. 
 
 Sarcophagi, in British Museum, 236 ; in 
 P.oolak .Museum, 320. 
 
 Sardinia. boundar\- between France and, 139. 
 
 Saronic Gulf, the, 524. 528. 
 
 Satan, a much-needed statue of, 141 ; the 
 synagogue of. 507. 
 
 Satyrs, paintings of, in Florence, 171. 
 
6o8 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Saul, birthplace of, 370; scene of his corona- 
 tion, 413 ; hanging of the seven sons of, 
 429 ; last tiaitle and .suicide, 443; consulta- 
 tion with the Witch of Endor, 446 ; Turkish 
 views of David's playing before, 563. 
 
 Saul of Tarsus. See Paul. 
 
 Save Kiver, union with the Danube, 571. 
 
 Savonarola, Jerome, statue at Milan, 154; 
 cells of, 170; site of his burning, 170. 
 
 Scallop-shells, at Jaffa, 343. 
 
 Scanimon^-, trade in, in Smyrna, 505. 
 
 Scandal, \n Jerusalem, 422. 
 
 Scaraba;i, sale of, 278. 
 
 Scaraba;us, the, 322. 
 
 Sceva, the sons of, ^12. 
 
 Schaffhausen, the Rhine at, 310. 
 
 Schaus, Mr., .Murilln canvas offered to, 46. 
 
 Sch lieman, Dr. H..rc>idcnce at Athens. 334,522. 
 
 Scholarship, the foundation of, 146. 
 
 Schuylkill, the river, 275. 
 
 Science, unknown in Morocco, 99; position 
 of Naples in. 187. 
 
 Scio, landing at, 503. 
 
 Scipio, 509. 
 
 Scipios, tomb of the, 177. 
 
 Scopus, the hill, 370. 
 
 " Scorpions" of Gibraltar. 106. 
 
 Scotland, represented on Mars' Hill, 521. 
 
 Scotland, Rev. Mr., fellow-traveler, 241. 
 
 Scourging, Chapel of the, 382, 385 ; Column 
 ofthc'sSs. 
 
 Scribe, mummy of a priestly, 320. 
 
 Sculpture, influence of Florence on, 167 ; in 
 Florence cathedral, 169 ; Burckhardt on 
 Grecian, 189 ; in the National Museum, 
 Naples, i8g ; Italy's eminence in, 202; in 
 catacombs at Asyoot, 264; at Thebes, 276; 
 at Temple of Koornah, 284 ; at the Rame- 
 seum. 284, 287 ; in Belzoni's tomb, 291; at 
 Esneh, 316; renown of Ephesus for, 509 ; 
 the home of Phidias, 523 ; of ancient 
 Greece and Rome. 530. 
 
 Scuta 
 
 36, 556. 
 
 Scythians, use of hasheesh by, 218. 
 
 Sea. funeral services over the, 126. 
 
 Sea of .Azov, relative freshness of. 409. 
 
 Sea of flalilee, the. 461-471 ; Lynch's ex- 
 plorations from the. 406 ; first glimpse of, 
 449 ; a Sabbath rest on the shores of. 461 ; 
 compared with the lakes of Switzerland and 
 Italy, 462; in the time of Christ, 467; 
 boats on, 467, 468 ; a never-to-be-forgotten 
 scene on, 467,468; Christ's sleeping on. 468 ; 
 marauding Bedouins on, 468 : a backward 
 view of, 471 ; climate around, 471; the Gos- 
 pels as a guide-book to the shores of. 471. 
 
 Seasickness, 81, 338, 515, 548. \ 
 
 Second Cataract, the, movement of English 
 troops to, 263; impossibility of reaching, 314. 
 
 Sects, in the University of Cairo, 325 ; con- 
 tending Mohammedan, 325 ; the warfare 
 of, in Egypt, 330 ; in Smyrna, 507. 
 
 Seilun, 434, 435. 
 
 Seine, the river, 275, 547. 
 
 Selim, dragoman, 428, 431-434, 439, 450. 451, 
 
 491- 
 
 Selim, Sultan, abdication and death of, 558. 
 
 Semsars, 98. 
 
 S^nado, the, of Spain, 24. 
 
 Seneca, birthplace, 36 ; statue in Naples. 
 189 ; on relations of crocodiles and the Ten- 
 tyrites, 269, 270; on the First Cataract, 310. 
 
 ''Senegal," the steamer. 338, 341. 
 
 " Senor," use of the title, 67. 
 
 Sephardim, the sect of the, 465. 
 
 Sephela, 43. 
 
 Sepoys, service in Egypt, 268. 
 
 Septuagint, made at Alexandria, 207. 
 
 Sepulcher, the Holy. See Holy Sepixcher. 
 
 Sera;_!li(), nf Constantinople, the. 539; resem- 
 blance to the .•\lhambra, 539. 
 
 Serapeuin, the, 232, 247, 248. 
 
 Seraphim, six-winged, 543. 
 
 Sermon on the Mount, the scene of the, 461. 
 
 Serpents, emblematical, 291 ; the Column of 
 the Three, 560. 
 
 Servia, through. s68, 569; the capital of, 571; 
 status under the Treaty of Berlin, 571 ; 
 trade in hogs, 571 ; parallel between Cin- 
 cinnati and, 571. 
 
 Servian language, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Servians, at Robert College, 555 ; struggle 
 for self-government, 571. 
 
 Servius Tullius, 174. 
 
 Sesame, 440. 
 
 Sethi 1, work at Thebes, 276; tomb. 276, 
 291 ; pictorial remains of. 280 ; builds 
 Temple of Koornah. 284 ; mummy of, 319. 
 
 " Seven Churches of Asia," the, 508. 
 
 Seven Hills of Rome, 177. 
 
 Seven Mountains, the, 112. 
 
 .Seven Sleepers, legend of the. 513. 
 
 Seventh Commandment, in Spain, 69. 
 
 Seven Towers. 560, 561. 
 
 Seven wonders of the world, the, 207 ; one of 
 the, 499, 500. 
 
 Sevilla, 43. 
 
 Seville, beggars. 43, 44 ; Phoenician commerce 
 with, 43 ; history, situation, characteristics, 
 etc., 43-49 ; decay of, 49 ; English influ- 
 ence in, 49 ; the alma mater of the bull- 
 ring, 77 ; Columbus relics in, 143 ; com- 
 pared with Naples, 191. 
 
 Shadoof, the, 273, 274, 312. 
 
 Shafut, 429. 
 
 Shakers, colony of practical in Jerusalem, 425. 
 
 Shakespeare, quoted, 4S0. 
 
 Shaloof, the heights of, 337. 
 
 Shame, the outpost of morals, 190. 
 
 Sharon, the plain of, 343, 347, 349, 35c; the 
 rose of, 346. 
 
 Sheba. Queen of, a gift to Solomon from, 144. 
 
 ShecI.em, former capital of the Jews, 355 ; 
 the sacred place of, 436 ; ancient, 438 ; 
 former owners of, 438 ; Abraham at, 438 ; 
 scene of Jeroboam's and Rehoboam's divi- 
 sion of the kingdom, 438 ; captured by 
 Simeon and Levi, 438 ; seat of Jeroboam's 
 government, 438. 
 
 Sheep, ancient rights concerning, 149 ; at 
 Farshoot, 266 ; at Jaffa, 343 ; in Palestine, 
 350- 
 
 Sheik, the office of a, 225, 257, 325, 326. 
 
 Shepherds, altar to the, at Bethlehem, 399 ; 
 the Grotto of the, 400. 
 
 Sherbet, Egyptian, 334, 421. 553. 
 
 Sherifs, 212. 
 
 Sheshouan, perils in, 97. 
 
 Shiloah, Isaiah's description of the waters of, 
 361. 
 
 Shiloh, site of, 434, 435. 
 
 Shimiju, River, 238. 
 
 Shipbuilding, in Egypt, 240. 
 
 Ship of the desert, the, 225. See also C.-\mels. 
 
 Shrines, Mohammedan, 348. 
 
 Shtora, 492. 
 
 Shunammite woman, the home of the, 443. 
 
 Shunem, 443, 444. 
 
Index. 
 
 609 
 
 Sichar, Sichem, 438. 
 
 Sicily, disputed sovereignty of, no; Samian 
 colony in, 503. 
 
 Sidi Abd-er-Rahman-eth- Thalebi, tomb of, 
 125. 
 
 Sidi Naaman, tomb of, 128. 
 
 Sidon, masons and carpenters of, 342. 
 
 Sierra Cniadarrama. the. ig. 
 
 Sierra Nevada, the, 50, 112; experiences in, 
 compared with Palestine, 432. 
 
 Siesta, the, in Cairo, 212. 
 
 Signs, belief in, in Italy, 200. 
 
 Silas, St. Paul's wait for. 521. 
 
 Silence, a country of, 274 ; depressing effect of, 
 274 ; Hood on, 311 ; in a I'urkish crowd, 549. 
 
 Silk-culture, 146. 
 
 Siloam, the brook and pool of, 361, 362. 
 
 Silvela, Francisco, oratory of, 25, 26 ; demon- 
 strations against, 26. 
 
 Silvio Peliico, imprisonment of, 165. 
 
 Silwan, road from Jerusalem to, 374. 
 
 Simeon, the alleged house of, 396 ; capture 
 of Shechem by Levi and, 438. 
 
 Simonides, the birthplace of, 500. 
 
 Simon the Cyrenian, bearing the cross, 386. 
 
 Simon the leper, house of, 414. 
 
 Simon the tanner, St. Peter's residence with, 
 
 .342. 343- 
 
 Simplon route, termination of the, 154. 
 
 " Sinai and Palestine, ' 2S7. 
 
 Singing, the finest in Rome, 186. 
 
 Sinjil, camp at, 432, 433. 
 
 Sinners — or — saints? 182. 
 
 Sioot, Si-iVit, Sioout, Siout. See AsvoOT. 
 
 Sirius. worship of, in Egypt, 267. 
 
 Sisera, the overthrow of, 445, 446. 
 
 Sisters of Charity, in Constantinople, 547. 
 
 Sistine Chapel, the, 186. 
 
 Siiit. See AsvooT. 
 
 Skepticism, among Mohammedans, 325. 
 
 Skull, the place of a, 386. 
 
 Slander, 190. 
 
 Slavery, in Morocco, 91 ; Algerine, 127, 128 ; 
 in Palestine. 431 ; in Turkey, 561. 
 
 Slaves, rise of a body of Turkish, 559. 
 
 Slave trade, gi. 
 
 Slavonians, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Sleepers, the Seven, 513. 
 
 Slivno, 567. 
 
 " Smith, Antiquity," 278. 
 
 Smith, Dr. Eli. connection with the Ameri- 
 can Mission in Syria, 495. 
 
 Smoking, in Spain, 68 ; the tobacco-pipes of 
 Cairo, 211. See also Hasheesh; Opium; 
 Tobacco. 
 
 Smugglers, in Gibraltar, 107. 
 
 Smyrna, arrival at, S04 ; mosquitoes, 504 ; 
 hotels, 504 ; a babel in, 504-506 ; scenery, 
 504, 505 ; donkeys, 505 ; trade, 505, 506 ; 
 population of, 506. 509 ; history, 506-509 ; 
 riches, 507 ; Christ's praise of the church in, 
 507 ; preeminent interest of Christians in, 
 507 ; climate, 507 ; trinulation of, 507, 508 ; 
 earthquake, 508 ; ruined amphitheater, 50S; 
 martyrdom of St. Polycarp, 508 ; " the an- 
 gel of the church at," 50S ; importance, 
 508, 509 ; distance from Ephesus, 509 ; sale 
 of rings and talismans at, ^13 ; return from 
 Ephesus to, 515 ; Armenian churches in, 
 549 ; Oulf of, 504, 505. 
 
 Smyth, Dr. Piazzi, on the Pyramid of Cheops, 
 230. 
 
 Snake-charmers, 89. 
 
 Snipe, on the shores of the Dead Sea, 409. 
 
 Snuff, use of, by Jews in Jerusalem, 418. 
 Soap, manufacture of, in Xabulus, 438. 
 Socialism, in Paris, 2. 
 Social ostracism in Spain, 72. 
 
 Society of I'riends, represented on Mars' HilL 
 521. 
 
 Socin, Prof., on Mohammedan manners and 
 customs, 324. 
 
 Socrates, statue of, in Naples, i8g; death, 512. 
 
 Sodom, popular beliefs concerning the de- 
 struction of, 405, 410. 
 
 Sofia. 56S ; convention of Protestant mission- 
 workers at, 568. 
 
 Soldiers, English and Spanish contrasted, 114. 
 
 Solomon, his commerce with Tarshish, 108; 
 gifts from the Queen of Sheba to, 144, 219; 
 transactions with Hiram, King of Tyre, 342 ; 
 site of his coronation, 358 ; idolatry of, 361 ; 
 building of the I'emple by, 373 ; alleged 
 piaying-spot of, 381. 
 
 Solomon's Porch, 377. 
 
 Solomon's Stables, 381, 382. 
 
 Solomon's Temple, building of, 342 ; sup- 
 po.sed site of, 377 ; Omar visits the site of, 
 378 ; desecration of its site by Christians, 
 378 ; columns from, in church at Bethlehem, 
 39S, 399. 
 
 Solon, at Heliopolis. 219; in Cyprus, 498. 
 
 " Song of Solomon," quoted, 346.' 
 
 Sooadee, village of, 251. 
 
 Sophocles, works of, 520 ; the home of, 523. 
 
 Sothis, the worship of, in Egypt, 267. 
 
 Soubirous, Bernadette, visions of, 4-8. 
 
 Soudan, the, commerce, 90 ; English military 
 movements against, 263 ; trade with Asyooi, 
 263; invaded by Amenophi-. Ill, 276; 
 effects of war, 305 ; graves of British soldiers 
 from, 306 ; fanatical devotion in, 325; der- 
 vishes from, 329; slave trade, 431. 
 
 Soudanese, 303. 
 
 Soul, Egyptian belief in the immortality of 
 the, 231; Egyptian idea of the voyage of 
 the, 291. 
 
 Soult, ^iarshal, capture of Seville, 46. 
 
 Sound, two kinds of, 299. 
 
 South America, British area and population. 
 
 Southern Cross, the. 315. 316. 
 
 .Sow, the worship of a white, 219. 
 
 Spain, boimdary between France and, 9 ; the 
 inotherof America. 10 ; aspects and associa- 
 tions of, 10: Irving's histories of, 10; her 
 Quixotic people, 10; the Queen of, 12; the 
 King of. 12. 20: the Red Republic in, 20; 
 monarchy in, 20; troops, 20. 21 ; ministe- 
 rial crisis. 24 ; form of government. 24-26; 
 Presbyterianism, 28 ; peculiarities of cathe- 
 drals, 35, 46; first Roman colony in, 36; 
 tobacco monopoly in. 4:5; Phoenician com- 
 merce with, 43 ; national characteristic of, 
 44; early history. 52 ; irruption of Visigoths 
 into. 52 ; settlement of Vandals in, 52 ; con- 
 solidation, 55; Saracen invasion, 55; Mus- 
 sulman conquest, 55 ; expulsion of the 
 Moors, 56 ; prevalence of blindness, 62 ; 
 railroad-Duildlnc. 64 ; sugar-planting, 64; 
 climate, 66; peculiarities of the people, 66- 
 73 (see also Spaniards); amusements in, 
 68; English influence, 69; foundling-asy- 
 lums. 6g; priests, 71 ; religious freedom. 71 ; 
 the confessional, 71; Protestant activities 
 71-73 ; social ostracism in, 72 ; religious per- 
 secution. 72 ; Sabbath-breaking in, 74, 70, 
 80 ; bullfights, 74-80; the "Botany Bay ' 
 
6io 
 
 Travels in Tiirkk Cominents. 
 
 of, 8i ; the Moor's key to, 8i ; the most im- | 
 pies>ive thing in, gg, loo ; capture of Gibral- 
 tar by, no; war of the Succession, no; 
 blackmailed by Algiers, 127 ; interest in 
 tlie Suez Canal, 336; Jonah's voyage to, 
 S42 ; flora, 346. 
 
 Spangled ornaments, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Spaniards, gayety of, 13, 20; horsemanship 
 of, 29; influence on Toledo, 34 ; peculiari- 
 ties of, 66-73 • distinction between the in- 
 dividual and the corporate capacity, 69; at 
 Gibraltar, 113; occupation of Naples, 191; 
 conipaied with Italians, 200. 
 
 Spanish, the purest, 34. 
 
 Spanish Jews, 465. 
 
 Sparta, possession of Samos by, 503. 
 
 Spanans, strife for IJyzantium, 536. 
 
 Sphinx, the, 231-235; baseball before the. 228 ; 
 compared with the Old Man of the Moun- 
 tain, 235. 
 
 Sphinxes, discovery by Mariette Bey, 248 ; an 
 avenue of, 248, 279, 280, 319 ; in the IJoolak 
 Museum, 319. 
 
 Spices, trade in, at Asyoot, 263. 
 
 Spinning dervishes, the, 326, 553. 
 
 Spirito, convent of, 415. 
 
 Spofford, Mr., leader of American colony at 
 Jerusalem, 425. 
 
 Sponge-fishing at Symi, 500. 
 
 Sponges, trade in, in Smyrna, 5o5. 
 
 Sprague, Horatio J., U. S. Consul at Gibral- 
 tar, 105. 
 
 Spring, a wonderful, 214. 
 
 Spurgeon, Rev. Charles H. , liking for Mentone, 
 142 ; satire on genealogy, 172, 173. 
 
 Ssout. See Asyoot. 
 
 Stables, usual position in Palestine, 398. 
 
 Stables of Solomon, the, 381, 382. 
 
 Stadium, at Athens, 519, 520 ; of Ephesus, 
 the, 510. 
 
 Stamboul, 536, 537, 539, 556. 
 
 Stanley, Dean A. P., on the Sphinx, 235 ; on 
 the site of Thebes, 275 ; on the statue of 
 Rameses II, 287; opinion concerning the 
 house of Simon the tanner. 343 ; on Syrian 
 tombs and wells, 396, 397 ; on the tradition 
 of Bethlehem, 398 ; scale of fresh waters, 
 409; on the si'e of Jacob's Well, 435; on 
 the scene of Abraham's sacrifice, 436 ; on 
 the scene of the encounter between Abra- 
 ham and Melchizedek, 436 ; on the situa- 
 tion of Nazareth, 453 ; on the miraculous 
 removal of the Virgin's house to Loretto, 
 
 454- 
 Stanley, Henry M., discovery of the sources 
 
 of the Nile, 311. 
 "Stanze," Raphael's, 186. 
 Star in the East, the spot where it was seen, 
 
 3<37- 
 
 Stars, Galileo's teaching, 167. 
 
 Statues: of Amenophis 276, 279; Amen-ra, 
 284 ; Apollo, at Constantinople, 560 ; Christ, 
 at Rome, 203; the Colossi of Egypt, 294- 
 297 : of Greek philosophers in Egypt, 
 248; Memnon, 297; archangel Michael, 
 171; Napoleon I, 150; Nero, 287; Ra- 
 Em-Ka, 320; Rameses II, 277, 287; St. 
 Bartholomew, 150; St. Peter, at Rome, 
 182 ; Taharka, 321 ; in the Boolak Museum, 
 319-321; in Florence, 167, 169, 171, 172; at 
 Milan, 150, 154; at Alonte Carlo, 140; in 
 the National Museum. Naples, 189, 190 ; 
 from Pompeii, 196 ; in Rome, 177, 178 ; in 
 Venice, 165 ; manufacture of, at Assouan, 
 
 302 ; the material of ancient Egyptian, 306 ; 
 profane use of, 520. 
 
 Steam, its influence at Gibraltar, 114. 
 
 Steamships, contrasted passages of, 1 ; on the 
 Nile, 241 ; drive away crocodiles, 273. 
 
 Stela;, sale of, 278. 
 
 Stephanos, Father, 419, 497. 
 
 Stephen, the persecution of, 498. 
 
 Stephenson, George, builder of railroad from 
 Alexandria to Cairo, 200. 
 
 Step Pyramid, the, 247, 248. 
 
 Stockholm, the Venice of the North, 161, 162. 
 
 Stolen property, recovering in Egypt, 312. 
 
 Stone of Anointment, the, 390. 
 
 Stone of Welfare, the, 250. 
 
 Stone peas, 397. 
 
 Storks, on the Nile, 250; in the plain of Es- 
 draelon, 442 ; in Asia Minor, 510. 
 
 Storms, on our departure from Jerusalem, 
 429, 432, 433. 
 
 Story-tellers, 89. 
 
 Strabo, mention of Egyptian antiquities, 248; 
 record of Thebes, 277 ; on the statue of 
 Memnon, 297. 
 
 Straight, the street called, 488. 
 
 Straus, Oscar, U. S. Minister to Turkey, 550. 
 
 Street, (leorge E., on Toledo cathedral, 35. 
 
 Strength, allegorical figure on Columbus's 
 statue, 143 ; feats of agility and, 236, 329. 
 
 Strobel, E. H., U. S. Minister at Madrid, 24. 
 
 Styx, origin of the fable concerning Charon 
 and the, 252. 
 
 Sublime Porte, the, 540. 
 
 Sue, Eugene, outdone, 282. 
 
 Suez, proposed railroad to Cairo from, 209; 
 distance from Port Said, 337 ; Plain of, 337. 
 
 Suez Canal, the, 209, 215, 221, 335-338, 524. 
 
 Sugar-cane, 258. 
 
 Sugar-factoi-y, an Egyptian, 257, 258. 
 
 Sugar-planting, around Malaga, 64 ; on the 
 Nile, 251. 
 
 Suicides, at Milan, 154; from heights, 154. 
 
 Siilem, a honey-field, 443, 444- 
 
 Suliman, the first to plant the Crescent in 
 Europe, 532. 
 
 Suliman the Magnificent, surrender of Rhodes 
 to, 500 ; mosque of, 550. 
 
 Sultan of Turkey, celebration of his birthday, 
 544 ; weekly journey for worship, 550, 553. 
 
 Sultan Hassan, ISIosque of, 213. 216. 
 
 Sultans, portraits of the, 557 ; violent deaths 
 of, 561. 
 
 Sumner, Charles, the biographer of, 495. 
 
 Sun, the, worship of, 219 ; symbol of human 
 life, 226 ; the sacred emblem of, 268 ; sup- 
 posed effect on statue of Memnon, 297, 298. 
 
 Sunstroke, threatened, 479. 
 
 Sun-worshipers, extinction of, 219. 
 
 Superior, Lake, view on the road to Damas- 
 cus like to. 479. 
 
 Supernatural cures, 8. 
 
 Superstition, in Spain, 10, 71 ;_ among Mo- 
 hammedans, 99, 125 ; concerning St. Peter. 
 181 ; in Italy, 200; concerning the Mosque 
 of Amer, 214; on the Nile, 250 ; among the 
 Nubians, 312, 313 ; among Tartars, 313 ; 
 among Jews of Jerusalem, 418 ; in Bulgaria, 
 568. 
 
 Surf-boats at Nemours, 119. 
 
 Surveying, study of, in Egypt, 240. 
 
 Sweating column, a, 540. 
 
 Sweden, Bernadotte. king of, 8. 
 
 Sweet Waters of Asia, the. 561. 
 
 Sweet Waters of Europe, the, 561. 
 
Index. 
 
 6ii 
 
 "Swellings of Jordan," 410. 
 
 Swimming in llie IJtad Sen, 406, 409. 
 
 Swine, the devils and the herd of. 471. 
 
 Swilzerl.md, mountains of, compared with the 
 Atlas range, 134 ; first road to Italy from, 
 157 ; fertility, 293 ; the Sea of Galilee com- 
 pared with the lakes of, 462. 
 
 Sword, alliance with the Koran, 543 ; Mo- 
 hammedan veneration for the, 543. 
 
 Swords, of Cyprus, the, 498. 
 
 Sychem, 438. 
 
 Syene, 310. See also .-^ssoitAN. 
 
 Syenite, distinguished from granite, 306. 
 
 Sylla, 509. 
 
 Symbolic mythology of Egypt, 321, 322. 
 
 Symbols, the origin of Scripture, 431. 
 
 Symi. the divers of, 500. 
 
 Symplegades, the, 548. 
 
 Syouth. See Asvoor. 
 
 Syria, assassins in, 218; boundaries of Egypt 
 extended into, 276; sculpture of historic 
 scene in, 284, 287 ; permanency of wells and 
 rock tombs in, 396, 397 ; St. Jerome's pil- 
 grimage from Rome to, 399 ; the Greek 
 Church in, 419 ; the Russo-Greek Church 
 in, 419; troubles in, 477 ; extinct volcanoes, 
 478 ; horses, 483 ; the most important sea- 
 port and commercial town in, 492 ; the 
 best physician in, 495 ; mission work in, 
 495, 496 ; St. Paul's voyage to, 498. 
 
 Syrian Protestant College at Beirut, 492. 495. 
 
 Syrians, Riwak of the, 325 ; Chapel of the, 
 393 ; the saddles of, 483 ; colonization of 
 Cyprus, 498. 
 
 Tabernacle, site of the first, 434. 
 
 Tableaux, living, 258. 
 
 Tablets, ancient Egyptian. 320. 
 
 Tabor, ISIount, Barak's encampment on, 
 
 445 ; tnonasteries on, 449, 450 ; supposed 
 
 scene of the Transfiguration, 475, 476 ; in 
 
 the time of Joshua, 476. 
 Tacitus, records the eruption of Vesuvius, 196. 
 Tagus, River, 34. 
 Taharka, statue of, 321. 
 Talmudists, in Tiberias, 465. 
 Tambourines, use, by howling dervishes, 329. 
 Tangier, landing at, 82 ; scenery, incidents, 
 
 people, etc., 82-100; slave-market in, 91; 
 
 prison, 91, 92; climate, 93; secret vices in, 
 
 93 ; the eye of Africa, 100 ; Bay of, 82. 
 Tarbes, bishop of, 4. 
 
 Taric, invades Spain and kills Roderick, 55. 
 Tarifa Point, iii. 
 
 Tariff, the inconveniences of a protective, 10. 
 Tarik, Gebal, landing at Gibraltar, no. 
 Tarpeian Rock, 177. 
 Tarquin the Elder, 174. 
 Tarquin the Superb, 174. 
 Tarshish, the navy of, 108 ; Jonah's voyage 
 
 from Joppa to, 342. 
 Tartars, superstition among, 313; costume, 
 
 547 ; in Constantinople, 547 ; of the Crimea, 
 
 the, 559. 
 Tartessus, the supposed Tarshish, 342. 
 Tax, the mosque, 550. 
 Taxation, in Morocco, 98 ; in Egypt, 215. 
 Taylor, Bayard, on the Boolak Museum, 322. 
 Taylor, Dr. William M., 130. 
 Tea, a cup of, for the Second Coming. 422. 
 Tears of Christ, the. 200. 
 Teeth, curious, in a mummy, 320. 
 Tekke, the convent of, 553. 
 Tel-el-kadi, 472. 
 
 33 
 
 Telescope, Galileo's exposition of the, 167. 
 
 Tell region of .Algeria, i2<j, 1 jo. 
 
 Tenipc. the classic vale of, 503. 
 
 Tempio di Cremazione, at .Milan, 154. 
 
 Temple, the building of Soloi.non's, 342; re- 
 built by Zerubbabcl, 342 ; route of materials 
 fir the, 346; burning of the, 356; elevation 
 of, 366; the building of the, 573; the 
 Beautiful CJate of the, 374 ; total disappear- 
 ance of the second, 377 ; Herod's, 377 ; de- 
 struction of the, by Titus, 377; supposed 
 site of Solomon's, 377. 
 
 Temple of Diana, the, 51 1 ; compared with the 
 Parthenon, 512; destruction of, 512; com- 
 pared with the Olymjjieum of .Athens, 519. 
 
 Temple of Goornah, or Koornah, 284. 
 
 Tentple of Nike, 520. 
 
 Temple ot Rameses II, 284. 
 
 Temple of the Sun, 219; contribution to 
 Santa Sophia, 540. 
 
 Temples, of Ephesus, 510-512 ; reasons for 
 Egyptian, 538. 
 
 Temptation, the scene of Christ'.s, 413. 
 
 I'enedos. 532. 
 
 Tent-making, in Ephesus, 513. 
 
 Tentyrites, the crocodile and the, 269, 270. 
 
 I'ersato, removal of the Virgin's house from 
 Nazareth to, 454. 
 
 Texas, analogy between the Jordan and 
 rivers of, 474. 
 
 Thames, the river, 27s, 370, 547. 
 
 Thames Embankment, Cleopatra's Needle 
 on the, 208. 
 
 Thebaid. the, 302, 310. 
 
 Thebes, approach to. 275 ; situation, scenery, 
 mystery, and history, 275-278 ; trade in 
 antiquities, 278 ; besieged by Ptolemy, 
 282; the plain of, 294 ; entertainment by 
 U. S. consul at, 299, 300; material of the 
 temples of, 302; a collection of photographs 
 of, 303 ; Ethiopian occupation of, 321 ; con- 
 versation with a Mohammedan at, 333; 
 difference between Jerusalem and, 355. 
 
 Themistocles, tomb of, 515; the city of, 523. 
 
 Theodosius, Emperor, birthplace, 49 ; paint- 
 ing of, 150; the Christian, 177; consults a 
 holy monk, 264 ; supposed foundation of 
 Temple of Denderah under, 267; abolishes 
 the Christian religion in Egypt. 309. 
 
 Theodosius II, rebuilds church of Santa So- 
 phia, 540. 
 
 Theopompus, birthplace of, 503. 
 
 Theseus, the city of, 519. 
 
 Thessalonians, Paul's Epistle to the, 531. 
 
 Thessalonica, 531. 
 
 Thief, the penitent, alleged birthplace of, 349. 
 
 Thieves, site of the crosses of the, 394. 
 
 Thompson, Joseph, reports travels in Moroc- 
 co. 94, 97. 
 
 Thomson, Dr.. on the storj' of Napoleon at 
 Jaffa, 344 ; on the rose of Sharon, 346; on 
 the site of .Arimaihea, 347; on the Via 
 Dolorosa, 386 ; on the situation of Nabulus, 
 44T, connection with the American Mission 
 in Syria. 495. 
 
 Thorns, the crown of, 385. 
 
 Tliothmes I, builds at Karnak, 276; intro- 
 duces the horse into Egypt, 276; the 
 daughter of, 280. 
 
 Thothmes II, extends the boundaries of 
 Egypt, 27^; coffin and mummy of, 320. 
 
 Thothmes III, growth of Thebes under, 276; 
 campaigns of, 282 ; sacrificial tablets of 319. 
 
 Thrace, Samian colony in, 503 ; ancient, 567. 
 
6l 2 
 
 Travels in Three Continents. 
 
 Thracian Bosporus, the, 535. 
 
 Three Sc-rpeius. the Column of the, 560. 
 
 Thucydides. historian of the Greeks, 503 ; 
 the city of. 523. 
 
 Thy, tomb of, 249, 250. 
 
 Tiber, River, 177, 503. 
 
 Tiberias, hot baths at, 461 ; sanitary condi- 
 tion, 461, 466; Jewish burial-ground at, 
 465 ; importance, 465 ; divine service at, 
 465; bigotry of Jews in, 466; climaie, 466 ; 
 in the time of t'hrist, 467 ; defeat ol the 
 Christians by Saladin at, 487. 
 
 Tiberias, Sea of. See Sea of Galilee. 
 
 Tiberius, the Saturnine, 177 ; construction of 
 Temple of Dendcrah in time of, 267 ; his 
 name in the I'eniple of iJenderah, 269 ; 
 contribution to the Temple of Isis, 309; 
 buiUling of Tiberias in his honor, 465. 
 
 Tiger and bull fight. 78. 
 
 Tigris. River, highway Indian commerce, 158. 
 
 Till, tomb of, 249, 250. 
 
 Time, the gnawing tooth of, 519. 
 
 Time and the Pyramids. 221. 
 
 Timotheus, 'Timothy, the first bishop of 
 Ephesus, 513 ; at Ephesus and in Mace- 
 donia, 513 ; St. Paul's wait for, 521. 
 
 Tinisah, Lake, 337. 
 
 Tinkling ornaments, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Tirhakah, statue of, 321. 
 
 Titian, paintings by, 23, 171. 
 
 Titles, use of high-sounding, 67 ; of nobility, 
 172 ; fondness of Italians for, 200. 
 
 Titus, the Obstinate, 177 ; the Triumphal 
 Arch of, 178, 355; siege of Jerusalem. 355, 
 356 ; route of the army of, into Jerusalem, 
 370; watches the destruction of the Tem- 
 ple, 377 ; celebrates his victories at Banias, 
 
 474- 
 
 Tobacco, government monopoly of manufac- 
 ture in Spain, 43, 44 ; forbidden in Tangier, 
 93 ; use of hasheesh with, 218 ; Druse hor- 
 ror of, 478 ; in Damascus, 483. 
 
 Tokay wine, the manufacture of. 572. 
 
 Toledo, mountains of, 19 ; situation, charac- 
 teristics, etc., 34-36; the language of, 34 ; 
 see, 34 ; population. 34 ; cathedral, 35, 36 ; 
 the castle, 36 ; cutlery and swords of, 36. 
 
 Tomb of the Bulls, the. 319. 
 
 Tophane, 536 ; significance of the name, 548. 
 
 Tornos, Cipriano, Presbyterian minister in 
 .Madrid, 28. _ 
 
 Torre Annunziata, 103. 
 
 Torture-chamber of Venice, 165. 
 
 Toulon, 138. 
 
 Tourist companies, the advantages of, 342; 
 rival, 342. 
 
 Tournefort, Joseph P. de, on the approach to 
 Constantinople, 532. 
 
 Tower of David, the, 417, 419, 422. 
 
 Tower of London, likeness to the Seven 
 Towers of Constantinople, 560. 
 
 Towei of Ramleh, 347. 
 
 Towle,G. M.,"Principalities of Danube," 571. 
 
 Trade winds, influence of, in Africa, 239. 
 
 Tradition, verifying a, 381. 
 
 Traditions, land of. 344 ; of Mohammedans, 
 378, 381 ; a wilderness of. 385 ; ludicrous, 
 417 ; concerning tomb of Maimonides, 465. 
 
 Trafalgar. Cape, 82. 
 
 Trajan, birthplace, 49; Triumphal Arch of, 
 162; the Grand, 177; Column of, 178; con- 
 tribution to the Temple of Isis, 309. 
 
 Transfiguration, the scene of, 450, 475, 476 ; 
 Raphael's painting of, 186. 
 
 Translator, the perils of a Turkish. 563-';65. 
 Transmigration of souls. Druse belief in, 478. 
 Trappist monks, enterprising, 203. 
 Treating, the Greek custom of, 529. 
 Treaty of Berlin, status of Servia under the, 
 
 ,,57'; 
 
 Trebizond. captured by Venice, 158. 
 
 Treviso, conquered by Venice, 158. 
 
 'Tribes, the Gate of the, 374. 
 
 1'ribuna. the, Florence. 167. 
 
 'Tribuie-money, Christ's payment of, 468. 
 
 'Trinity. Mohammedan denial of the, 323, 37S. 
 
 Triumphal Arches: at .Milan, 157; of Con- 
 stantine, 181 ; of Nero, 162 ; of 'Titus, 178 ; 
 of Trajan, 162. 
 
 Troas. contributions to Santa Sophia, 540 
 
 Trogyllium, 503. 
 
 Tunis, ivo. 
 
 Turanians, in Smyrna, 506. 
 
 Turbans, in Cairo, 212 ; Coptic, ^32. 
 
 Turbulence, not an Italian characteristic, 
 201. 
 
 Turk, explanation of the term, 559 ; the odium 
 of the name, sfo; anecdote of a, 560. 
 
 Turkey, battle of Navarino, 205 ; the Sultan's 
 gift to Napoleon 111,382; delays of the 
 government, 489; Greece's successful re- 
 volt against, 528 ; grants charter to Robert 
 College, 5S4 ; portraits of the Sultans, 557 , 
 status of Protestants, 560 ; censorship of the 
 press, 562-565 ; perils of a translator in, 
 563-565; an expurgated hymnal in, 565; 
 changes under the 'Treaty of Berlin, 567. 
 
 Turkish baths, use of. in Buda-Pesth, 572. 
 
 Turkish Empire, feelings on approaching 
 the, 341 ; the power of the, 400. 
 
 Turkish guards, bribery of, 474. 
 
 Turkish power, origin of the, 559. 
 
 Turkish soldiers, at the Tower of David, 417. 
 
 Turkomans of Khiva, the, 559. 
 
 Turks, in Gibraltar, 107; in Assouan, 305 ; 
 opposition to Miss Mangan's mission at 
 Jaffa, 343, 344 ; their impartial control of 
 Jerusalem, 425 ; in Smyrna, 506 ; religious 
 freedom granied by the, 507; evacuation 
 of Greece by the, 516 ; capture of Corinth 
 by, 528; final capture of Constantinople, 536; 
 pilgrimages of, to Joshua's tomb, 548 ; at 
 Robert College, ^55 ; origin, 559 ; number, 
 559 ; characteristics, 559-561 ; toleration of 
 the, 559 ; treatment of women. 559, 561, 
 562; wit, $(0; hospitality, 561 ; etiquette, 
 561, 562; seat of government at Adrianople,. 
 567 ; wars of the Servians with the, 571. 
 
 Turks' blood, 571. 
 
 Turquoises, ancient Egyptian, 321. 
 
 Tuscany, 168, i6g. 
 
 Tusks, trade in, at Asyoot, 263. 
 
 Twain. Mark, fame of, 236, 237. 
 
 Typhoid fever, outbreak on a Nile steamer, 
 317, 318 ; Mr. McFadden sick with, 317-319. 
 Tyrannus, Paul in the school of, 512. 
 Tyre, masons and carpenters of, 342. 
 Tyropoeon, the Valley of, 356. 
 
 Udine, conquered by Venice, 158. 
 
 " UUah-u-Akbar," 487. 
 
 Ulterior Spain. 36. 
 
 Umbrellas, use of, in Egypt, 277. 
 
 Unbelief, not necessarily a sign of decaying 
 
 religion, 325. 
 Unclean animals, Mohammed's prohibition 
 
 of. 727. 
 
 United Kingdom, area and population, 115. 
 
Index. 
 
 613 
 
 United Presbyterian Church, mission inMad- 
 rid, 28; mission at Asyoot, 264; mission in 
 Egypt, 332, 333. 
 
 United States, consumption of Bord-^aux 
 wines, 2 ; France's aid to, 2, 3 ; the protect- 
 ive tariff of, 10 ; improvident waste of 
 forests in, 19 ; use of high-.-.oundiiig titles 
 in, 67; slave-trade in, 91; insignificant 
 naval force, 104 ; consular service, 105 ; war 
 with Algiers, 127, 128; beauties of, 192; 
 Italians in, 201, 202; Cleopatra's Needle 
 presented to, 208 ; irrigation, 240 ; Protes- 
 tant mission in Egypt from, 32, 333 ; credit 
 due to, for Dead Sea txploraiion, 406 ; 
 leprosy in, 426, 427 ; a reminder of slavery 
 in, 431; represented on Mars' Hill, 521; 
 money raised for Robert College in, 554. _ 
 
 Unity of tjod, the, Mohammedan belief in, 
 378 ; scene of revel ition of, to Abraham, 49a. 
 
 Uriah Heep. a Palestine variety of, 451, 452. 
 
 Urumia, Lake, relative saltness of, 409. 
 
 Utah, irrigation in, 240; plural marriages, 
 324 ; salt deposits, 406. 
 
 Uzzah. his offense and his punishment, 350. 
 
 "Vain thing for safety, a," 396. 
 
 Valencia, the bull-ring in, 74, 77. 
 
 Valois. Margaret of, persecutes Calvin, 8. 
 
 Van Benschoten. Prof., letters from, 522. 
 
 Vandals, in Seville, 43; ravage France, 52; 
 struggles with Visigoths, 52 ; settlement in 
 Spain. 52 ; in Egj'pt, 249. 
 
 Vanderbilts, a member of the family arouses 
 jealousy in Constantinople, 557. 
 
 Van Dyclc. paintings by. in Florence, 171. 
 
 Van Dyke, Dr., connection with the Ameri- 
 can .Mission in Syria, 495 ; translates the 
 Bible into .Arabic, 405. 
 
 Vanity, a weakness of human nature, 67 ; in- 
 centive to suicide, 154; an Italian charac- 
 teristic, 200. 
 
 Vantine. \. A., 504, 506. 
 
 Varm, River, 139. 
 
 Vatican, the, 185, 186 ; neglect of Jerusalem 
 by, 42T. 
 
 Vegetable-peddlers, in Egypt, 210. 
 
 Vegetables, immense, in Jaffa, 344. 
 
 Vegetarian monks, 404. 
 
 Vegetarians, a paradise for, 43. 
 
 Vehemence, an Italian characteristic, 201. 
 
 Veil, the Mohammedan. 547. 
 
 Veils, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Velasquez, paintings in Madrid, 23. 
 
 Vendetti, Italian, 200. 
 
 Vendramin Calergi. the palace, 166. 
 
 Venice, dread of the Moors at, 99 ; black- 
 mailed by .Algiers, 127 ; historj', 158; con- 
 quest of Dalmatia by, 15S ; decay of com- 
 merce, 158; situation, 158-161 ; gondolas, 
 161 ; Piazza and Church of San Marco, 162 ; 
 a common error regarding, 162 ; Palace of 
 the Doges, 165 ; Bridge of .Sighs, 165 ; 
 Roman Catholic mission church, 166; Grand 
 Canal. 166; Campanile, 166; Galileo at, 167 ; 
 a wonderful ass at, 202 ; relics of, at Cor- 
 inth, 527 ; capture of Acro-Corinth by, 528. 
 
 Venice of the North, the, i6r, 162. 
 
 Venus, paintings of, in Florence, 171 ; wor- 
 ship of, in Corinth, 528. 
 
 " Venuses. sable." 306. 
 
 Vermont, compared with Nazareth, 453. 
 
 Verona, conquered by Venice, 158 ; a won- 
 derful assau 202. 
 
 Veronica,'^!., tomb of, 386; tradition, 386. 
 
 Verus, Q. Granius, of Pompeii, loo. 
 
 Vespasian, expedition against Palestine, 355. 
 
 Vesuvius, i8b. 193-199 ; eruptions, 193, 195, 
 196 ; railroad up, 193 ; ascent, 193-196; his- 
 tory, 195 ; work, 196-199; view from, 528. 
 
 Via di Circonvallazione a .Monte, 145. 
 
 Via Dolorosa, the, 382, 385. 386. 
 
 Vice, influence of, on insanity, 217, 218 ; at 
 Port Said, 338. 
 
 Vicenza, conquered by Venice, 158. 
 
 Victor Emmanuel, gallciy of, 154 ; tomb of^ 
 178 ; entry into Naples, 192. 
 
 Victoria, Queen, extent of empire, 115, 116. 
 
 Victoria Hospital, Cairo, 319. 
 
 Victoria Nyanza, source of the Nile, 238. 
 
 Vienna, dread of the .Moors at, 99 ; Naples 
 compared, 191 ; size of Jerusalem compared, 
 357 ; an art rival of, 572 ; in the city, 573. 
 
 Vila, Senor. persecution of, 64. 
 
 Villa Diomedes, the, 199. 
 
 '■ Ville de Naples," the, 137. 
 
 Viminal Hill, 177. 
 
 Vinci, Leonardo da, 149, 154, 155 ; monument 
 at .Milan, 154 ; in Florence, 167 ; paintings 
 by, in Florence, 171. 
 
 Vindictiveness. of Italians, 200. 
 
 Vines, at Shechem. 436. 
 
 Vineyards, at Bud.i-Pesth, 572. 
 
 Violence, in Spain, 70. 
 
 Virgil, residence near Naples, 187, 192 ; tomb 
 of, 192. 
 
 Virgin, the Holy, miracles of, 4-8 ; Grotto of 
 the. 7 ; sandal of the, 26-28; a black, 126; 
 paintings of, in Florence, 171 ; Helena's 
 pilgrimage to house of, 202, 203 ; tomb of, 
 365 ; efficacy of prayer to, 390 ; scene of the 
 Nativity, 399 ; house of, at Nazareth, 454; 
 residence in Ephesus, 513. See also M.\RV. 
 
 "Virgin and Child," painting of, by St. 
 Luke, 172, 185. 
 
 Virgin's Fountain, the, 361, 362. 
 
 Virgin's Tree, the, 219. 
 
 Virtue, in Spain, 69. 
 
 Visigoths, enter Spain, 52 ; struggles with 
 Vandals, 52. 
 
 Visions, of Bernadette Soubirous, 4-8. 
 
 Viticulture, near Athens, 516. 
 
 Viturii, dispute between Genoa and the, 144. 
 
 Vocal statue of Memnon, the, 297. 
 
 Voice, peculiarity of human, in insanity, 329. 
 
 Volatility, a French characteristic, 200. 
 
 Volcanoes, hypothesis concerning, 196 ; ex- 
 tinct, in Syria, 478 ; near Damascus, 483. 
 See also Vesuvius. 
 
 Vulcan, the Forge of, 194. 
 
 Wady Halfah, 263. 
 
 WaLrner. Richard, death of, 166. 
 
 Wailing-place of the Jews, the, 382. 
 
 Waldensians, evangelical work of, 203, 204. 
 
 Waldstein, Dr. Charles, 522. 
 
 Wales, Prince of, visit to the Pyramids, 221 ; 
 fame of, 236. 
 
 Wales. Princess of. visit to the Pyramids, 221. 
 
 Wallachian Princess, munificence of a, 413. 
 
 War, effect of, at Karnak, 279 ; effects in the 
 Soudan, 305. 
 
 Warner, Charles Dudley, on Egyptian travel, 
 241 ; on scenery of the Nile, 258 ; an omis- 
 sion by, 264 ; records a crocodile in the Nile, 
 273; mention of ■■ .Antiquity .Smith," 278. 
 
 War of the Spanish Succession, no. 
 
 Warsaw, dread of the Moors at, 99 f visit of 
 the Czar to, 544. 
 
6i4 
 
 Travels ix Three Continents. 
 
 Washburn, Rev. George, president of Robert 
 College, 555. 
 
 Washington, George, eulogy of Lafayette, 13. 
 Watch-towers., in I'.ilcstine. 345. 
 Water-carriers, in Egypt, 210, 294 ; women as, 
 266; in Jerusalem, 362. 
 
 Watering-phices, scanty attire at, 284. 
 
 Water-jars, manufacture of porous, 266. 
 
 Waterpots, in Cana of Galilee, 458, 461. 
 
 Waters, scale of relative freslincss of. 409. 
 
 Waters of everlasting life, origin of the sym- 
 bol, 455. 
 
 Water-wheels, use of, in Egypt, 274; in Nubia, 
 312 ; in the i)lain of Sharon, 345. 
 
 Way of Grief, the, 382. 385, 386. 
 
 Wealth, the foundation of, 146; the Nubian 
 standard of, 312. 
 
 Weary .Man's \ illage, the. 548. 
 
 Weddin;;s, barbarous ceremonies at Abyssin- 
 ian, 421. 
 
 Welfare, the Stone of, 250. 
 
 Wellington, Duke of, siege of San Sebastian, 
 11; gifts to the Alhambra, 51; declines 
 offer of the Alhambra, 57 ; monument to, 
 at Gibraltar, iii. 
 
 Wells, permanency of Syrian, 396, 397. 
 
 " Wending their way,' illustration of the 
 phrase, 444. 
 
 Wesleyans, mission in Madrid, 29 ; at Gibral- 
 tar, 108. 
 
 West Africans, Riwak of the, 325. 
 
 Western Africans, the Gate of the, 374. 
 
 Western civilization, a magnificent presenta- 
 tion of, in lieirut, 496. 
 
 Western Empire, fall of the, 177. 
 
 West Indies, liritish area and population, 115. 
 
 Westminster Abbey of Venice, the, 166. 
 
 Wheat, thrashing in Morocco, 99 ; cultivation 
 of, in Egypt, 240. 
 
 Whip, the use of, in Egypt, 257. 
 
 White, Andrew D., meeting with Gen. Grant, 
 207; in Cairo, 335; meeting with, at Ath- 
 ens, 516. 
 
 White Nile, the, 238. 
 
 Whittier, John G., "Among the Hills," 467. 
 
 Whittling, a Greek equivalent of Vankee, 530. 
 
 Widow's son, raising the, 444. 
 
 Wild beasts, gladiatorial combats of Jews. 474. 
 
 Wilkinson, Sir J. G., on chronology of the 
 Pyramids, 229; on the age of ^lemphis, 
 247; Egyptologist, 266 ; on the antiquity of 
 Thebes, 276; chronology of Menes. 322. 
 
 Wilson, Prof. Erasmus, aids in removal of 
 Cleopatra's Needle, 208. 
 
 Wimples, ancient Egyptian, 320. 
 
 Winding-sheets, a standard of measurement 
 for, 3QO. 
 
 Windmill Hill, Gibr.iltar, ijo. 
 
 Wine of Bordeau.v, 2; use, in Egj'pt, 216, 217. 
 
 Wisdom, allegorical figure on Columbus s 
 statue, 143. 
 
 Wise Men, the spot where they saw the Star 
 in the East, 397. 
 
 Wit, of lurks, 560. 
 
 Witch of Endor, Said's consultation with, 446. 
 
 Wives, Mohammedan plurality of, 324 ; the 
 Salt Lake system, 324. 
 
 Wolf, sacredness of, in Egj'pt, 263. 
 
 Wolsey, Cardinal, modern use of his palace 
 in London. 165. 
 
 Wolves, mummies of, 263 ; the City of, 263. 
 
 Woman of Samaria, the, 436, 438. 
 
 Women, fabled beauty in Seville, 44; position 
 in the Alhambra, 55 ; religious devotion. 
 
 63 ; standard of virtue in Spain, 69 ; the 
 confessional and, 71 ; in Tangier, 85 ; in 
 Morocco, 91 ; Jewish, gi ; among the 
 Moors, 122; among the Kabyles, 133; at 
 Monte Carlo, i.ji ; restrictions on, in 
 Genoa, 144 ; provision for. in Genoa, 145 ; 
 charges against those of Paris, 191 ; cover- 
 ing the fate in Egypt, 218 ; care of lunatic, 
 in Cairo, 218, 219; on the Nile, 250; fasci- 
 nation of Egyptian girls, 256 ; aversion of 
 the holy niunk John to, 264 ; as water- 
 carriers, 266, 294, 362 ; working in Egypt, 
 278; scanty attire at watering-places, 284; 
 sufferings from heat, 294; smoking. 299; 
 dancing, in Thebes, 299; deceptive appear- 
 ance of age in Egj'ptian, 299, 300; in 
 Egyptian symbolic mythology, 322 ; in 
 Salt Lake City, 324; status in Sloham- 
 medan countries, 324; peculiar effect of 
 insanity on the voice of, 329 ; in the 
 Presbyterian missions in Egypt, 332 ; 
 scene of Christ's address to the. 386 ; ex- 
 cluded from convent of Mar Saba, 403; 
 polygamy in Palestine, 433 ; Bedouin. 443, 
 472 ; stories of those of Symi, 500 ; modern 
 Greek, 528, 529 ; Albanian, 528, 529 ; ad- 
 vantage o\ er men, 529; prejudice against, 
 at Mount Athos, 532 ; costume of Greek 
 and iNlohammedan, 547; Turkish ideas 
 about, 559, 561, 562 ; beauties of Ciicassia, 
 561 ; costume of Servian, 571. See also 
 
 CosTl'ME. 
 
 Wood, John T., discovery of the Temple of 
 Diana, 511. 
 
 Wool, trade of Damascus in, 480. 
 
 Works and faith, a curious mixture of, 492. 
 
 World, the supposed center of the, 381. 
 
 Worship, the lowest point of, 418-; the most 
 authentic remnant of primitive, in Pales- 
 tine, 436. 
 
 Worst tow n in the world, the, 338. 
 
 Wortman. Dr. Denis, author of "' Reliques of 
 the Christ," 456. 
 
 Wouverman. Philip, paintings at Madrid, 23. 
 
 Wrecks, on the Nile. 251. 
 
 Writing, the spread of, 169 ; Dr. Petrie's dis- 
 coveries concerning, 335. 
 
 Wurtemberg, a peculiar sect of, 422. 
 
 Xenophon, 509. 
 
 Xerez de la Fontera, battle of, 55. 
 
 Xerxes, 509 ; his bridge of boats. 532. 
 
 Valo, the valley of, 348, 349. 
 Vankee, a Connecticut, at Thebes, 27S. 
 Vankee custom, a Greek equivalent of a, 530. 
 '■ Vankee Doodle," in Egypt, 216. 
 Vusuf L wealth of, 55 ; contributions to the 
 Alhambra, 55. 
 
 Zechariah, tomb of, 362 ; term for the Mount 
 of Olives, 369. 
 
 Zerin, 442, 443. 
 
 Zerubbabel, rebuilding of the Temple by, 342. 
 
 Zeruiah, the mother of Joab, 355. 
 
 Zin, the Wilderness of, 284. 
 
 Zincke, F. B., comparison of the Nile withthe 
 Platte, 239 ; on the wiles of Egyptian girls, 
 256 ; opinion of an antique statue, 320. 
 
 Zion, Mount, 356, 417. 422. 
 
 Zion, the castle of, captured by David, 355. 
 
 Zion Gate of Jerusalem, 374, 417, 419. 
 
 Zion Street, Jerusalem, 417. 
 
 Zoological Station, Naples, 190. 
 
RARK BOOK 
 COLLECTION 
 
 THE LIBRARY OF THE 
 
 t'MV ERSITV OF 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA 
 
 AT 
 
 CHAPEL HILL 
 
 Travel 
 G463 
 .B94 
 1894 
 
mmm 
 
 
 m