SKETCHES OF TRAVEL IN THE OLD 
 AND NEW WORLD 
 
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 6,1 
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVEL 
 
 OLD AND NEW WORLD 
 
 BY 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 CHARLESTON, S. C. 
 
 WALKER, EVANS & COGSWELL, PRINTERS, 
 
 Nos. 3 Broad and 109 East Bay Streets. 
 
 1-871. 
 

 TO 
 
 MY BELOVED WIFE 
 
 AND 
 
 PRECIOUS CHILDREN, 
 
 THIS VOLUME 
 
 IS 
 
 AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 This volume is intended for private circulation. 
 It is made up, as the reader will perceive, of 
 familiar letters, written, for the most part, during 
 foreign travel, and published originally in the 
 Southern Christian Advocate and the press of the 
 City of Charleston. 
 
 The author is assured that the perusal of these 
 Letters, as they originally appeared, gave pleasure 
 to his friends. He has reason to hope that their 
 collection and perpetuation in the present form, 
 will be gratifying to many beside his immediate 
 family circle. 
 
 No pretension is made by the writer to artistic 
 merit in point of style. He has been accustomed, 
 however, to see things for himself in his travels, 
 and has attempted to describe faithfully, and in as 
 clear a manner as possible, whatever has struck his 
 attention or awakened interest in his journeyings 
 in the Old and New World. 
 
 He owes it to the taste and skill of the Printers, 
 Messrs. Walker, Evans & Cogswell, that the 
 Letters appear in a form so attractive. 
 
TOUR OF TWO MONTHS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 Queen of the Antilles. 
 
CUBAN CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 LETTER FIRST 
 
 Leaving Home — The Voyage — Key West — First 
 Impressions. 
 
 Soon after we parted, my dear Mrs. C, at 20 George 
 street, accompanied by a group of loving friends, I 
 made my way to the good Steamship Isabel. I was 
 very sad, as you may well believe, in bidding you all 
 farewell ! but the word had to be spoken. My physi- 
 cian said I must go abroad. I felt as if parting for- 
 ever from the shores of my beloved country, to wander, 
 a stranger in a strange land. At 2 o'clock, A. M., 
 we sailed for the " Queen of the Antilles," — the fruit, 
 as Mr. Calhoun phrased it, forbidden us to covet. 
 
 After leaving Charleston, we had a rough sea, and 
 cold, boisterous weather. On Friday we entered the 
 balmy Gulf Stream; the weather became clear and 
 mild, the deep, blue sea was comparatively calm. 
 Once more I feel like living. M'lle Rachel, the great 
 French actress, was one of the passengers, and had the 
 captain's room on deck. She is looking quite feeble 
 and low-spirited; her acting in this world will, doubt- 
 less, soon be at an end. She goes to Cuba, probably, 
 never to return. She is now in the prime of her age. 
 
2 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 Although very young she has seen much of this world 
 and its vanities. It is possible you may not know her 
 history. 
 
 When a little girl, she was picked up in the streets 
 of Paris, half dead with cold and hunger; now she 
 is crowned with gifts from kings and queens. Few 
 women are so distinguished ; but she, like all persons 
 of genius, has enemies, and the tongue of slander fol- 
 lows her, even in her wanderings for health. 
 
 The French troupe gave us nightly concerts, which 
 those who were able to remain on deck seemed 
 greatly to enjoy. 
 
 We stopped ten hours at Key West. I was glad to 
 have an opportunity of once more standing on Ameri- 
 can soil. Before reaching this point, I had made the 
 acquaintance of several of our fellow-passengers, and 
 we strayed through this tropical town, plucking the 
 beautiful flowers which were hanging profusely over 
 the side-walks. Here, for the first time, I saw the 
 palm-like cocoanut tree, laden with fruit. 
 
 Key West is on a small Island, seventy miles from 
 the main land of Florida, and eighty miles from 
 Havana. It has a population of three thousand souls. 
 The inhabitants live mainly by the misfortunes of 
 others. 
 
 It is said to be an ill wind that blows no one any 
 good ; and so think these wreckers, who are always 
 looking out for vessels in distress. Many a gallant 
 ship, which hath withstood storm after storm, has 
 been wrecked on the dangerous keys and reefs of the 
 Florida coast. 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 3 
 
 Fort Taylor commands the entrance to this harbor. 
 Government has been ten years at work on it, and 
 money enough has already been expended to make 
 it a strong tower of defence. It is constructed of 
 granite, in ten feet of water, some four hundred yards 
 from the shore, and is designed to bear an armament 
 of three hundred guns. Should our country, unfortu- 
 nately, ever be engaged in a maritime struggle, this 
 will be an important rendezvous for the commerce of 
 the Gulf of Mexico. Through this Gulf Stream, a large 
 portion of the cotton, sugar and other valuable crops 
 of the country must pass in seeking a market. Hence 
 the importance of completing these works at once; 
 and they should be defended by all the resources of 
 modern military science. 
 
 We are now nearing Havana. At 3 o'clock, this 
 morning, I went on deck to get a peep at old Moro 
 Castle. As this great wonder of the Western world 
 burst on my vision, how my heart throbbed! I felt 
 thankful to a kind Providence for protecting me thus 
 far on my journey, and permitting me to look upon 
 such interesting objects as were spread out around me. 
 
 We were not allowed to enter the harbor of Havana 
 until sunrise; but the bright moon shone as it can 
 shine only in this tropical region, presenting a scene 
 far more beautiful than I had ever before beheld. I 
 was not sorry that we were detained, surrounded, as 
 we were, by so much that was new and interesting 
 to me. 
 
 The Spanish war-trumpet could be heard, and the 
 watchful soldiers, stationed in the strong fortifications 
 
4 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 of the Cabanas, were to be seen on duty guarding 
 every point. 
 
 At sunrise the signal gun from Moro was fired, and 
 we gladly sailed up the magnificent harbor — large 
 enough, it is said, to hold all the ships of Spain. 
 
 We passed the vessels of every nation, and I was 
 proud to recognize the stars and stripes of my own 
 native land. 
 
 I have only taken a bird's-eye view of Havana, and 
 cannot speak of things positively; but the people, the 
 houses, the gardens, and nearly all the surroundings, 
 are very different from what we are accustomed to 
 look upon at home; and the climate is delightful be- 
 yond anything that I had imagined. 
 
 I am inclined to think the Island an Eden, with all 
 the snakes driven out. Of this I am not sure, but will 
 see ; then you shall hear from me again. 
 Ever yours, truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Havana, December 22d, 1855. 
 
LETTER SECOND 
 
 Sightseeing — The Sabbath — Looking for a Hotel — 
 Invalids — Dominica. 
 
 Since my last, my dear Mrs. C, I have been almost 
 constantly on the go, sight-seeing and looking up the 
 wonders of this marvellous city. To-day I climbed 
 one of the high hills which command a splendid view 
 of Havana and the surrounding country. Nothing can 
 exceed the beauty here presented to the eye. The 
 magnificent harbor, filled with ships ; Moro Castle 
 standing proudly on an opposite hill ; the Cabanas, 
 stretching along, forming a continuous range of forti- 
 fications ; the ancient-looking walls, houses, churches, 
 and towers, and the luxuriant verdure of shrub and 
 tree natural to this tropical region — these are a few 
 of the interesting objects which present themselves to 
 the eye almost at a single glance, and on which no 
 eye would ever tire to gaze. Havana, with its beauti- 
 ful flowers, and groves of orange, lemon, banana and 
 palm trees ; its balmy, delicious climate ; with its rich 
 fruits ; its bright moonlight nights — no wonder it is 
 considered a paradise ! But let me tell you that this 
 Eden has the foot-prints of the Old Serpent in every 
 nook and corner. I have seen them ; alas !. yes, and 
 under many, to me, at once new and painful aspects. 
 Here the Sabbath morning breaks upon you with the 
 ringing of bells, beat of drum, firing of cannon, and 
 march of soldiers in every direction. 
 
6 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 Then you see a general move of white and black, 
 old and young, rich and poor, wending their way to 
 the cathedral and different Romish places of worship. 
 They have no pews or seats, as with us ; those who 
 can afford it sit or kneel on rich rugs and carpets. 
 The darkest son of Africa prostrates himself by the 
 side of the fine lady, in pearls, silks and satins. Scat- 
 tered through the church, I observed a number of 
 priests, sitting in cane chairs, with persons kneeling 
 on each side, speaking gently into their ears, confess- 
 ing their sins, and receiving from them spiritual ad- 
 vice, consolation, and the like. There seemed to be 
 much seriousness among the worshippers. From the 
 confessional they go to their wordly occupations and 
 amusements. The shops are opened, buying and sell- 
 ing is carried on ; and the Sabbath seems to be the 
 great day for display in business as in amusement. 
 
 Last evening (Sunday) I wandered alone to the 
 Paseo de Isabel. Here was one general turn out of 
 volantcs, filled with the gay and fashionable people of 
 the city. Near this garden is the Tacon Theatre, into 
 which I saw crowding hundreds and thousands of 
 Catholic Christians (?) in this nineteenth century, on 
 a bright and lovely Sabbath evening. I thought if 
 this was the road to Heaven, we poor Methodists cer- 
 tainly were not journeying in it. But it is the broad 
 road in which millions of our fellow-beings are travel- 
 ling, both in Papal and Protestant countries. It is 
 the road in which the Old Serpent has been winding 
 his way, scattering mildew and poison, since Adam 
 and Eve were banished from the Garden of Eden. 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 7 
 
 Why send Jenkins and Taylor to China, when " the 
 Greeks are at our very doors ! " 
 
 It is said that " distance lends enchantment to the 
 view." This is emphatically true of Havana : here is 
 a rich and ancient city, with a population of two hun- 
 dred thousand, and not a decent hotel to be found in 
 it. Men, women and children, of all colors, grades 
 and conditions ; horses, mules, cows, dogs, monkeys, 
 baboons, pigs, fowls and lizards, (to say nothing of the 
 smaller reptiles,) all inhabit the same house, and sleep 
 on the same floors. The inhabitants (in the hotels) 
 laugh and grow fat on dirt and filth. 
 
 If you were to see the people driving the cows from 
 door to door, and performing the operation of milk- 
 ing, you would take leave of butter and milk. I have 
 not touched either. Our party was very careful to 
 seek a "first-class hotel." We were directed to the 
 Revere House, kept by Madame Raymond. Here the 
 charge is from three to five dollars per day, accord- 
 ing to the size of your purse and the color of your 
 room-mate. My hostess showed me a chamber ; but 
 it required only a cursory view to convince me that I 
 could not occupy it. Immediately under the dining- 
 room was a stable filled with horses and cattle. This 
 I might have stood ; but in front of me was — the 
 kitchen ! I was too fresh from the blue sea to endure 
 that scene. My hostess, (a Louisiana lady, thor- 
 oughly Cubanized,) kindly proposed to make a bed 
 for me in the parlor. 
 
 Our party held a council of war, and we decided to 
 change our lodgings. Two of us spent half a day in 
 
8 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 search of a better hotel; but after a dreary and dis- 
 appointing quest, found we were ' in snug quarters, 
 compared to other houses. 
 
 I have found my "Isabel" acquaintances pleasant*; 
 and as some of them have been here before, they are 
 of great assistance to me — Colonel C. and his wife, 
 from Ohio, have been exceedingly kind. Mrs. C. is 
 an elegant lady. She has an eye to my room, and 
 takes care to see that it is kept clean and comfortable. 
 She is now arranging to make our tea and coffee ; and 
 says if I get sick she will watch over me. So, you 
 see, wherever I go, I find "guardian angels." 
 
 Havana is crowded with Americanos, as the Cubans 
 call us, but they come here mostly from the Northern 
 States, to avoid the bitter cold winters of that region. 
 The hectic flush, quick breathing, hacking cough, and 
 emaciated appearance, indicate that many of these 
 persons have delayed too long their visit to this mild 
 and genial climate. Those who are feeble had better 
 remain at their own homes, where they can receive 
 the delicate attention they so much require, and 
 which cannot be had at the hotels here. In my hum- 
 ble opinion the Island of Cuba is not the place for one 
 far gone in consumption. The wet northers that fre- 
 quently sweep down the coast, are often quite too 
 severe for a delicate constitution to bear. 
 
 No stranger visits Havana without paying his re- 
 spects, and his dimes too, to the world-renowned 
 Dominica. Here you find a decoction of the berry 
 and chocolate that would make a Frenchman laugh. 
 I have seen the lars^e marble hall crowded with visi- 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 9 
 
 tors — judging from the babel of tongue, they are from 
 all parts of the globe. The Dominica is a kind of 
 exchange, where strangers meet, eat, drink and smoke. 
 The dense smoke arising from the rich Habana, makes 
 my head swim. I fear I shall be compelled to use 
 La Habana in self-defence. Even some of the daugh- 
 ters here do not object to the mild cigaretta. It 
 amuses me to see the smoke curling in the air from 
 their delicate coquettish lips. But such is life in this 
 Spanish town — men and women are free and easy in 
 their manners, especially the married ladies. The 
 habits and customs of the people are so very different 
 from what we are accustomed to, one can hardly 
 realize that he is living in the nineteenth century, 
 and almost within sight of his own native land. 
 
 I am invited to spend the evening in a native 
 family, and will have an opportunity of seeing how 
 they live in their homes. Wishing my friends a 
 happy new year, 
 
 I remain yours, very truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Havana y December, 1855. 
 
LETTER THIRD 
 
 A New Years Visit to Cerro — The Cap tain- General 's 
 Garden — Ride on Horseback — Cuban Ladies and their 
 Amusements. 
 
 Happy new year! yes — I have been very happy, 
 yet sorrowful too to-day. The new year opened bright, 
 calm and lovely as a May morning. I set out early 
 to make a visit to Cerro and its magnificent gardens. 
 "Never before did my eyes behold such beauty, gran- 
 deur and loveliness. I have not words to express 
 what I saw and felt in this earthly paradise. It would 
 not be difficult for one to imagine himself in Fairy 
 Land. I could only ejaculate — "O Lord, how mani- 
 fold are thy works : in wisdom hast thou made them 
 all: the earth is full of thy riches." 
 
 I wandered through the private and public gardens, 
 in groves of beautiful trees, flowers and fruit, inhaling 
 the sweet, balmy, pure air. It has awakened new life, 
 love and joy in my soul: my heart was filled with 
 devout gratitude to God for permitting me to enjoy so 
 much. 
 
 I should have been perfectly happy if my friends 
 could have been with me, and shared in the delightful 
 scenes presented in my rambles. On Friday Mrs. C. 
 accompanied me to the Captain-General's garden, the 
 most beautiful in the city — the gates were opened — 
 the water let into the fountains — a guide furnished us, 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 1 1 
 
 and we were loaded with beautiful flowers. I also pro- 
 cured a large variety of seeds, and will try my hand 
 at making a Cuban flower garden when I return to 
 Charleston. During Christmas holidays the rich go 
 to their estates in the country, and the plebeians come 
 to the city. I have been struck with the sobriety of 
 the inhabitants of Cuba. - Christmas week they are all 
 free, and do pretty much as they please; and yet I have 
 not seen a man the least intoxicated. I wish I could 
 say as much for Protestant America. On a recent 
 visit to Washington City, I saw so much drinking and 
 drunkenness that it made me blush for my country- 
 men. 
 
 Mrs. C. and I took a ride on horseback before break- 
 fast, to avoid the hot sun. It was our intention to 
 climb the picturesque hills which lay so beautifully 
 around Havana, and get a view of the harbor and sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 You may not be aware of the fact that the city is 
 enclosed by a high wall, entered only through massive 
 gates, which are guarded by Spanish soldiers. One of 
 these suddenly brought us to a halt. Our entreaties 
 to permit us to pass were unavailing. We returned 
 to the hotel, not in the best humor, especially as we 
 were followed through the streets by a dozen boys 
 shouting, "Americanos, Americanos!'' When one is 
 in Rome, I suppose he should obey its laws; we did 
 so, but it was at the point of the Spanish bayonet. 
 Cuban ladies seldom ride on horseback; hence the ex- 
 citement over my friend increased, no doubt, in con- 
 sequence of our being foreigners. 
 
12 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 I should like to see a volante filled, as it often is, 
 with three black-eyed Creole girls, driven through 
 King street, with a fantastically mounted African, with 
 scarlet jacket trimmed in gold, wearing high jack 
 boots coming about his knees, with silver buckles, and 
 spurs on his heels more than an inch long. I imagine 
 they would attract even more attention than the party 
 who were screamed at so this morning. 
 
 Cigar smoking is universal here. Men and boys 
 smoke — smoke — smoke. I have seen them asleep on 
 the sidewalk with cigars in their mouths. Having 
 visited nearly all the places of special interest here, I 
 shall go into the country, visiting Guines, Matanzas, 
 Yumuri Valley, ("The Valley of Death," of which 
 there is a gloomy legend,) Cardenas, Trinidad, and I 
 know not yet what other places. I am on the broad 
 ocean without anchor or rudder, subject to the tides 
 and winds — occasionally I see breakers ahead — but I 
 have my eye fixed on the good star of Hope. 
 
 Before leaving Havana, I must speak of the ladies. 
 I have looked in vain for the beautiful Spanish and 
 Creole women, of whom we hear and read so much. 
 You seldom see a lady walking in the streets ; their vis- 
 iting and shopping, is done in the volantes — they drive 
 in front of the stores, and the silks and satins are 
 brought out to them. There are no King street prom- 
 enaders here. If a display is to be made, it is in the 
 ugliest of all carriages, the volante. You may see a few 
 elegantly dressed ladies walking in the Plaza de Armas. 
 There is no grace or elasticity in their movements; 
 they drag themselves along very clumsily, not unlike 
 
Cuban Correspondence,. 13 
 
 the Chinese. The majority of the women seem to 
 live an easy life; they do not appear to work either 
 with their hands or heads. I have watched them from 
 early morning till late at night, and coquetting with 
 their fans is about all that I have been able to see 
 them doing. Sitting in front of the tall, prison-barred 
 windows, with chairs arranged to catch the breeze, 
 looking at every passer by, is a favorite occupation — 
 seldom do you see them reading. A characteristic 
 anecdote is related of an American sailor, who saw 
 several ladies looking out upon the street through their 
 grated parlor windows, supposing them to be prison- 
 ers. He told them to keep a good heart; and then, 
 after observing that he had been in limbo himself, he 
 threw them a silver dollar, to the great amusement of 
 the "prisoners," and the spectators who understood 
 the position of the inmates. Young ladies are not 
 permitted to be alone with gentlemen. I do not know 
 whether this is due to a want of gallantry on the part 
 of the men, or to the great caution of prudent mothers. 
 You occasionally see the gentlemen talking to them 
 through the iron bars. Ladies do not wear bonnets 
 as with us; a thin veil is usually thrown over the head. 
 I have been to church daily since I came to the Island, 
 and I have not yet seen a lady accompanied to the 
 house of worship by her husband. It may not be 
 fashionable for them to do so — or I may say custom- 
 ary — for never was there a people under the sun (the 
 Chinese excepted) who cling with a stronger grasp 
 to old customs than the inhabitants of Cuba. They 
 think their way of doing things is right, and all the 
 
14 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 light and reason you can bring to bear upon them 
 would not convince them to the contrary. They are 
 very fond of amusements, and many engage in those 
 of the most exciting kind; but the theatre is the 
 ladies' evening home. Most of them play at cards, 
 and this article is a prominent ornament in nearly 
 every parlor. It is surprising in a hot climate like this, 
 that they are so fond of the dance, but dancing is a 
 favorite amusement with the Cubans of all classes. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Havana, January, 1856. 
 
 LETTER FOURTH 
 
 Sight-seeing — Lost — A Negro Ball — Stinglcss Bees. 
 
 My Dear Mrs. C. : I am still busily engaged in 
 looking upon the interesting scenes of this wonderful 
 country. And, as I become accustomed to the habits 
 and manners of the people, I enjoy my visit more and 
 more. The letters of introduction from my Charleston 
 friends to commercial houses here, have procured for 
 me those courtesies which the Spanish gentlemen so 
 well know how to bestow. The French have the rep- 
 utation of being the most polite people in the world, 
 but I like the native politeness of the Spaniards better. 
 Through the kindness of my friends here, I have had 
 access to public and private gardens, and other places 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 15 
 
 of interest in Havana and its suburbs. I average, in 
 my rambles, about twenty miles a day. I ride in 
 volantes, omnibuses, steamboats, and on horseback. 
 When night comes, I find myself so wide-awake that 
 sleep seems almost impossible. I seldom sleep more 
 than three or four hours a night. 
 
 Tuesday evening I went to Principe, a little moun- 
 tain not far off, to get a night view of the surround- 
 ings of the city. The omnibuses go only half-way 
 up the hill ; the rest of the journey has to be per- 
 formed on foot. At 9 o'clock I concluded it was 
 time to go home, and returned, as I supposed, to the 
 same line of omnibuses in which I came. You may 
 judge my surprise when I ascertained that I had gone 
 in an opposite direction, and from home. 
 
 I found myself — I knew not where — not a word 
 could I understand. I asked a Cuban how far to 
 Plaza de Armas, (the place from which I started,) and 
 held up three fingers, supposing it was three miles. I 
 was shocked when he held up both hands. It was 
 now 10 o'clock, and I was outside the walls of the 
 city without a passport. The police regulations here 
 are very strict, it being a violation of the law to allow 
 a foreigner to remain in a public or private house 
 without a permit from an officer in Havana. 
 
 How much I then regretted that I did not accept 
 your kind offer to teach me the Spanish language. I 
 was well punished for my indifference and ingratitude. 
 
 A little after 12 o'clock I found the " Revere 
 House," but it was closed and all was darkness. I 
 commenced hammering at the door, and soon drew 
 
1 6 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 around me more watchmen than I cared to see, espe- 
 cially as I could not understand what they were jab- 
 bering about, so I left for the " Dominica." On my 
 way I heard an unearthly mixture of discords. I 
 very cautiously approached the place from which the 
 sounds proceeded, and was delighted to find myself 
 at a negro holiday ball! 
 
 Such a wild scene never before presented itself to 
 my astonished eyes. Some thirty negroes were en- 
 gaged in the dance. They looked to me like wild 
 Africans, just dropped down from the spicy land — such 
 uncouth music, and unearthly noises, and frightful 
 countenances. Briefly, the miserable creatures were 
 perfectly frantic — quite a number were almost in a 
 state of nudity. I do not know much about balls, but 
 it seemed to me there was no order in their dancing 
 or music — all was one hideous, wild, yelling scene of 
 confusion. It looked as if the dark pit had been 
 opened, and these people, in the shape of women and 
 men, had been permitted on this Christmas holiday, 
 to have one grand blow out on earth. Their coun- 
 tenances were horrid, frightful, and unhappy ; they 
 danced all night, and then, I suppose, went to mass in 
 the morning. 
 
 This is life in Havana ! When a boy, I had wit- 
 nessed negro balls, and wild Indian dances, in the 
 mountains of my own native land; but never had I 
 seen anything that could compare with the scenes of 
 Tuesday night. I was well compensated, by the 
 gratification of my curiosity, for the loss of a night's 
 sleep. 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 17 
 
 What will my good Methodist brethren say when 
 they learn that I have been to a dance? I apprehend 
 when I return they will lecture me in downright ear- 
 nest : before I left home, if I looked sad it was " wrong 
 to do so." If I laughed and seemed happy, there was 
 danger of my being " led astray by fashionable so- 
 ciety !" Don't open your eyes. I do not mean you. 
 Since I was a wee mountain boy, I have been my own 
 guardian, and I don't feel like applying for one just 
 yet. 
 
 I came to Cuba to see the elephant! and if I live 
 long enough I am determined to accomplish my 
 errand. I have no fears that I shall suffer either 
 morally, mentally, physically or spiritually. I wish to 
 observe critically the manners, customs, and morals 
 of a nation under Romish influences. I will do so 
 and run the risk of being stung, as I was this morn- 
 ing, by believing one of Frederika Bremer's bee 
 stories. You know, she says, there are no poisonous 
 reptiles on the Island of Cuba, and that the Cuban 
 bee did not have a poisonous sting. I caught one 
 and paid painfully for my credulity. Ah ! Frederika, 
 this is not the only mistake you have made in your 
 " Homes of the New World." 
 
 But, the " Black Warrior " is in, and I must close. 
 Adieu, my friend. G. W. W. 
 
 Havana, January, 1856. 
 
LETTER FIFTH 
 
 Trip to Guines — Chinamen — Spaniards and Creoles — 
 John Bidl — Cuban Gentlemen — Lotteries — Travel. 
 
 It would be impossible for me to describe to you 
 all the objects of interest and beauty that present 
 themselves on every side in a railroad ride from Ha- 
 vana to Guines. I looked with more than ordinary 
 interest on the broad, green fields of sugar-cane, now 
 and then interspersed with coffee groves and tobacco 
 plantations. 
 
 The production of sugar is increasing rapidly, and 
 the yield this year will be unusually large. Many 
 coffee estates are being abandoned. It is thought the 
 present crop will not supply the home consumption. 
 
 It is very difficult to realize that you are in mid- 
 winter, when you look upon the fields of corn now in 
 silk and tassel, and see the people dressed in their 
 summer costume, and the earth clothed with green 
 grass and fresh flowers. The weather has been charm- 
 ing, no rain or frost. I have found it delightful to 
 sleep with the windows open under the lightest cov- 
 ering. 
 
 It is amusing to see the agricultural implements in 
 use on the farms — old ploughs, with one handle, such 
 as were used by the Egyptians several centuries ago, 
 drawn by two creeping oxen, and guided by dull, 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 19 
 
 stupid negroes. But what they lack in art, nature, in 
 her fertility, has supplied. With the rudest labor, the 
 country produces an abundance of the richest produc- 
 tions, and " blossoms as the rose." 
 
 Guines has a population of eight thousand persons. 
 It once had a good hotel, but now they put you in a 
 dirty Spanish fonda, with horses and dogs. 
 
 To-day we visited a coffee estate near Guines, and, 
 as everybody is interested in this tree of Arabia, of 
 course I looked with more than ordinary interest on 
 its growth, culture and products. The large fields of 
 the luxuriant coffee plant are divided by avenues of 
 stately palms and cocoas; here and there are to be 
 seen the orange, covered with fruit and flowers; here 
 you also find the double jasmine, white tube roses, 
 and night-blooming cereus, such as only grow to per- 
 fection under a tropical sun. 
 
 The air was fragrant with the mingled perfumes 
 from these flowers, and from the flowers of the almost 
 perpetual-blooming coffee, lemon and orange. No 
 wonder this gem of the Gulf is called a paradise! but 
 I imagine, like the homes of our first parents, there is 
 concealed, in this bed of roses, the cunning serpent. 
 
 This coffee plantation, although covering some two 
 hundred acres of ground, is not much short of a well- 
 cultivated garden, producing, as it does, almost every 
 variety of fruit and flowers. The coffee plant does not 
 grow much taller than the peach trees with us. 
 
 The blossoms look like white jasmine, and form 
 thick clusters around the branches. It has successive 
 crops of flowers, blooming monthly, in the winter and 
 
20 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 spring. The berries, when ripe, are red, resembling 
 the cherry in size and appearance. They ripen from 
 September to January, and are gathered by the hand, 
 and conveyed in baskets, when dried, to the mill, 
 where they pass through a roller, for the purpose of 
 removing the rough hull. The next process is to pass 
 them through a fan mill, and the husk is separated 
 from the berries. This coffee, when kept for a num- 
 ber of years, is regarded equal to the celebrated 
 Mocha. It is exported in bags made of manilla hemp, 
 and weigh from one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
 pounds. 
 
 I am surprised to see so many Chinamen scattered 
 throughout the Island. They are brought here by 
 the cargo, in English and Yankee ships, and sold into 
 ten or more years slavery! These poor fellows are 
 made to believe that they are on their way to the land 
 of gold, (California.) You see them loaded with the 
 cruel Spanish chain, for rebelling, when they ascertain 
 how shamefully they have been imposed upon. Oh, 
 for a Harriet Beecher Stowe, to write a Chee-Chow- 
 Wang romance upon the cruelty to this deluded 
 people! It is a horrid thing, according to modern 
 philanthropy, to steal wild Africans, but a blessing to 
 kidnap the educated Chinaman, and sell him into 
 slavery. Consistency is a jewel. Some twelve thou- 
 sand have already been brought here, half smothered 
 and starved in crowded ships, and the cry is " still they 
 come." They work in the sugar-mills, steamboats, 
 and anywhere in the shade, as well as the negro. 
 They are doffing their cues, and falling into the habits 
 
Cuban Correspondence. ' 21 
 
 and costume of the Cubans. No females are brought. 
 It is difficult to teach them the language, and they do 
 not engage so readily in the ceremonies of the Catho- 
 lic religion as the Africans. 
 
 The slave population is decreasing rapidly. Those 
 who are smuggled into the Island are of the male sex. 
 The negroes have many more privileges than with us. 
 On the sugar estates, at this season of the year, they, 
 however, work very hard. 
 
 On the Island you find a variety of characters. The 
 Spaniards are the best educated, and hold all offices 
 of honor and profit. The Creole has not much love 
 or sympathy for the Spaniard. The foreigners who 
 live here, are generally adventurers, and come, simply, 
 to make money. I find a large majority of them bor- 
 dering on infidelity. They become disgusted with the 
 religion of the government ; and, having no place of 
 worship, they give themselves up to the worship of 
 Mammon. Those who reside here more than three 
 months, are required to swear allegiance to the gov- 
 ernment, and the Roman Catholic religion. You may 
 be sure, that before I take any such oath, I shall de- 
 mand my passport, shake the dust from my feet, and 
 leave this natural Eden to its serpent. 
 
 I left Havana in company with two German and two 
 English acquaintances. There is a frankness and can- 
 dor about the German character that I admire; but 
 John Bull, what shall I say of that gentleman ? I take 
 him into my heart, nestle him, imagine that I begin to 
 esteem, if not to love him, and, the first thing I know, 
 John, like the frog in the fable, begins to swell. I 
 
22 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 open my heart, and out he comes. I have almost 
 come to the conclusion that the only way a full-grown 
 British subject can be made social and Americanized, 
 is by marrying him to a daughter of the House of 
 Jonathan. I know it must be deeply mortifying to his 
 national pride, to enter into such an alliance, but he 
 occasionally does so. 
 
 In Havana I made one acquaintance, fresh from her 
 Majesty's dominions, whom I rendered furious by my 
 Americanism. He was talking largely of the " mis- 
 tress of the world," and said if the United States 
 attempted to buy Cuba, England would whip her as 
 she had whipped Russia ! I told him it appeared 
 to me that the people of Havana did not know that 
 England had been engaged in a war with Russia, 
 judging from a large exhibition that I had seen repre- 
 senting all the battles of the Crimea, the taking of 
 Sebastapol, and the like. The English did not have 
 a showing in the picture, unless those men in the 
 trenches were intended to represent the British gene- 
 rals ! He talked about French humbug, and was 
 angry enough. Nevertheless, with all the British 
 Lion's roaring, swelling and blustering, I rather like 
 him. He has shown himself to be powerful, both in 
 war and peace. It is wonderful to see what his little 
 corner of the globe — somewhat larger than a few 
 Georgia cotton-fields — has done, and can do ; and, 
 loving my own country as I do, I must yet recognize 
 the English as a great and powerful people, who have 
 given to the world some of its most glorious examples 
 and noble lessons. 
 
Cuban Coitespondence. 23 
 
 The gentlemen of Cuba, in many respects, are 
 superior to the ladies. They are an active, working 
 set of men, and generally are much better informed 
 than the other sex. 
 
 I have never found among our merchants so much 
 politeness and accommodation as here. Time and 
 again have strangers left their business and gone with 
 me from place to place, without compensation, never 
 expecting to see me again. A gentleman leaving the 
 United States for Cuba, only requires a good introduc- 
 tion to Havana merchants. I had letters to Spanish, 
 Creole, American and English . houses. They all 
 seemed to take pleasure in offering me every facility 
 for visiting their friends (merchants and planters) in 
 the interior. 
 
 Havana is the New York of Cuba. Nearly all the 
 imports come here, and the banking is done entirely 
 in Havana. Their currency is still gold and silver, 
 but a bank, with three millions capital, will go into 
 operation soon. 
 
 The floors in Cuba are never carpeted, in conse- 
 quence of the heat of the climate. Thick slate, also 
 marble and jasper of various colors, cut in squares, 
 are used for floors in most of the dwelling-houses. 
 
 You are much annoyed wherever you go with 
 applications to buy lottery tickets ; and I have been 
 surprised to see respectable merchants and ladies en- 
 gaged in this species of gambling. The Queen of 
 Spain draws fifty thousand dollars a month from the 
 lottery office, which, it seems, does not keep her in 
 pocket change. 
 
24 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 The travel on a Cuban railroad is poco a poco, six 
 to ten miles per hour ; but the scenery is so magnifi- 
 cent you do not wish to move faster. 
 
 I have seen mahogany used as fuel for the engines. 
 It is surprising that the Yankees, who build their 
 roads, do not teach them better economy. I should 
 think, from what I have observed, it is much easier 
 for an American to fall into their habits than to ele- 
 vate them to ours. They have first, second and third 
 class cars, and charge three, six and nine cents per 
 mile. Seventy-five per cent, of the travel is on the 
 third-class cars. 
 
 I leave to-morrow for Matanzas. Adieu. 
 
 Guines, February, 1856. G. W. W. 
 
 LETTER SIXTH 
 
 Matanzas — Friends — Yumuri Valley — Blood-hounds — 
 A Cave — Lopes — Cardenas — • Consistency. 
 
 Well, my friend, you see that I salute you from 
 another quarter, have changed my base, and am now 
 pleasantly enough situated in the beautiful City of 
 Matanzas. My room opens on the fine bay, and ; 
 after a hot ride on the railroad, the refreshing sea 
 breeze is delightful. In this spacious harbor I see 
 "Young America" represented in the shape of a score 
 of ships, hailing from Charleston, New York and Bos- 
 ton, loading with the products of this rich Island. 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 25 
 
 I like Matanzas, in many respects, better than 
 Havana. The inhabitants look more comfortable, and 
 the streets are wider and cleaner. 
 
 The country from Guines to this city is very pro- 
 ductive, and the hills and valleys through which you 
 pass make it a most picturesque ride. On either side 
 are large fields of orange, banana, cocoanut and royal 
 palm trees, loaded with fruit. Matanzas has an 
 active, thriving set of merchants, and carries on a 
 brisk trade in sugar, coffee, molasses, etc. I am now 
 travelling with a Boston merchant and a New Orleans 
 physician, and here I meet a Charleston friend, C. 
 E. M., whose agreeable phiz looms out to me more 
 pleasantly than ever in a foreign country. We Ameri- 
 canos stick together like brothers. I have been quite 
 fortunate in making acquaintances in this land of 
 strangers. I do feel specially grateful to God for 
 having given me, among other blessings, a social dis- 
 position, for it gives me kind, good friends, from whom 
 I derive much information and happiness. 
 
 I must now tell you about the celebrated Yumuri 
 Valley. Having procured four fine Spanish ponies, 
 and friend M. for our guide, we started for the moun- 
 tains. On we marched in regular Indian file, ascend- 
 ing hill after hill, until we reached the summit of 
 Cumbre Mountain. Here let us rest, and behold the 
 most magnificent scenery in the world. Now imagine 
 yourself on a lofty pinnacle, without tree or shrub to 
 obstruct your view in any direction, and see the won- 
 drous panorama that delights the vision on every 
 hand. 
 
 4 
 
26 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 Cast your eye to the north, and you see the broad, 
 blue Gulf of Mexico, and there comes a steamer from 
 Havana. Those ships which are sailing so gracefully 
 into port — where are they from ? They have not yet 
 hung out their flags, and I cannot tell. To the west 
 and east is the harbor and beautiful City of Matan- 
 zas ; to the south — ah ! here is the picture which fills 
 the soul with rapturous delight. Look upon Yumuri, 
 the most beautiful valley on the globe ! I had always 
 thought there was no land so lovely as my own dear 
 Nacoochee, the Tempe of the South, 
 
 " Where the zephyrs perfumed as from the Spice Islands, 
 Mount up from the valley to welcome the morn ; 
 Where the gale robs the zephyr to gladden the highland 
 With sweetness, that e'en to proud Yonah is borne. 
 
 'Tis a valley of peace, rich in every soft feature, 
 
 In sunshine or shade, in its own verdant green ; 
 'Tis Georgia's Egeria, most lovely by nature, 
 Carved out of a chaos of wild mountain scene." 
 
 Yes, for once in my life, have I beheld a valley 
 beautiful as the " sweet vale of Nacoochee." These 
 rich and varied scenes have produced a well-spring in 
 my heart from which I can ever draw happiness. As 
 I looked forth on the natural beauty that lay spread 
 out beneath and around me, O, how I did wish that 
 all my friends could be with me, and feast on the rich 
 scenery of this charming valley ! Far, far below are 
 broad, green fields of sugar-cane, now in full bloom ; 
 and on the sides of the mountain, standing in glorious 
 beauty, you see, in thick groups, the majestic Royal 
 Palm. On the quiet and peaceful banks of the Yu- 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 27 
 
 muri River, which winds its way through the valley, 
 are beautiful groves of orange, banana, lemon, and 
 almond ; and here and there peep out farm-houses, 
 almost hid by luxuriant vines, trees, and flowers. 
 We could not leave this enchanting spot until the 
 sun had dropped behind the distant mountains, and 
 warned us that darkness would soon be upon us. 
 
 This lovely valley has a sad history. It was here 
 that the natives were cruelly massacred by the Christ- 
 ian (?) Spaniards. Only a small remnant were left. 
 These, finding themselves pursued by the blood- 
 hounds, threw themselves into the river, shouting, 
 " Yo Moir ! Yo Moir/" — I die, I die: Ever afterwards 
 the river and valley were called Yumuri. 
 
 As we were returning to the city, a pack of fierce 
 Cuban blood-hounds attacked us, and it seemed that 
 we should be torn to pieces ; fortunately, the largest 
 and most desperate fellow was muzzled. They seized 
 our Boston friend by the foot, and I thought would 
 unhorse him. They chased us nearly a mile. I do 
 not know when I have witnessed a more exciting 
 scene. Nearly all the planters keep these dogs, and 
 train them to catch runaway negroes that hide in the 
 caverns of the mountains. Near this valley is a cave 
 worthy of a visit. The entrance is rather narrow and 
 difficult, but after you have gone some hundred feet it 
 becomes wider. You find it necessary to carry lamps 
 and matches, for if your light should become extin- 
 guished, it would be very difficult to find your way 
 out. The cave penetrates the mountain half a mile. 
 The drippings through the rugged cliffs become pet- 
 
28 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 rifled, and hang down in clusters resembling icicles. 
 Owls and bats inhabit this dismal abode in great num- 
 bers ; and it was formerly a safe hiding place for the 
 highway robbers who committed many murders in 
 this region, and were the terror of the neighborhood. 
 
 We left Matanzas in the steamer which carried the 
 unfortunate Lopez and party to their last home on 
 earth. The engineer — an American — pointed out the 
 place on deck where three young men from New 
 Orleans were shot. The poor fellows were sent into 
 eternity without a moment's warning or preparation. 
 The prisoners were all treated with the greatest 
 indignity. After a pleasant sail up the coast of six 
 hours, we reached Cardenas. This is the city of eight 
 thousand inhabitants taken by Lopez with five hun- 
 dred men ! Their shot and shell marks are still to 
 be seen on the houses and doors. Here I find a 
 great many persons dissatisfied with the tyrannical 
 government ; but they were too cowardly to join 
 Lopez, or they might now be free. Lopez finding 
 himself surrounded with twelve thousand troops, was 
 compelled to leave for the United States. But you 
 are, no doubt, well informed in relation to the wretched 
 history. 
 
 Cardenas is located on the coast. As a place of 
 residence it is uninviting, but a large trade is carried 
 on. One-fourth of the sugar crop is shipped from 
 this port. Here you find Massachusetts and Maine 
 merchants buying the "slave molasses," and shipping 
 it to Boston and Portland to be manufactured into pure 
 New England rum, and sold to Southern heathens for 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 29 
 
 "slave money." This is a beautiful sort of consistency 
 for your spiritual education. 
 
 I have letters of introduction to the proprietors of 
 Flor de Cuba, Ponina, Alva and St. Helene, four of 
 the largest sugar estates on the Island. When I have 
 visited these places, you shall hear from me again. 
 Yours, very truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 LETTER SEVENTH 
 
 Flor de Cuba — Sugar-making — St. Helene — Society — 
 The Lower Classes — The Spanish Rule. 
 
 I am now, my friend, in the richest and most highly 
 cultivated districts of the Island, receiving the princely 
 hospitalities of the kindest people it has been my lot 
 hitherto to meet abroad. Flor de Cuba (flower of 
 Cuba) is one of the largest and best regulated sugar 
 plantations in the wide, wide world. It belongs to the 
 family of Arriettas, a family which would be a credit 
 to any country. Before delivering my letters of intro- 
 duction, I must confess that I felt more than ordinary 
 concern about the reception ; but I carried a request 
 from Havana friends that I should receive those 
 polite attentions which these planters so well know 
 how to bestow. 
 
 " You are welcome, sir; and we hope you will make 
 our house your home," was said in such a manner 
 
30 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 that it made me feel at home. It was no mere pro- 
 verbial and superlative compliment of the Mexicans. 
 Mr. Victor Arrietta, the head of the house, after the 
 courtesies and graces of hospitality had been duly 
 considered, proceeded to show me the utilities as well 
 as beauties of the place. He showed and explained 
 to me all the processes in sugar-making. These, as 
 you may well conceive, from your knowledge of my 
 practical tendencies, interested me very greatly, and, 
 for the benefit of my friends, who have never visited a 
 sugar estate, I will endeavor to give them some idea 
 of the "Flower of Cuba," and its productions. 
 
 This estate contains five thousand acres of produc- 
 tive lands. We rode, for hours, through an immense 
 field of sugar-canes, growing from twelve to eighteen 
 feet high. These fields are divided by beautiful ave- 
 nues of royal palm and mango trees. Many of the 
 trees are sixty to eighty feet high; in the distance 
 looking like white marble columns. The planters 
 commence cutting the cane in December, and the top 
 is used as food for cattle. In Louisiana, the cane has 
 to be renewed annually; here, once in ten or fifteen 
 years. It is hauled in carts drawn by oxen to the 
 sugar-mill, which is usually located in the centre of 
 the farm. The cane is passed between two large iron 
 rollers, and the juice is pressed out, flowing through 
 troughs into tanks, to be purified. It is next pumped 
 into cisterns, and boiled to the consistency of a syrup. 
 On this estate they make both clayed and Muscovado 
 sugars. The former is made in tin moulds, in the 
 shape of a funnel, holding fifty pounds. These vessels 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 31 
 
 are filled with green sugar; on the top is placed a 
 layer of clay, two inches thick, and they are left three 
 weeks to drip and dry. The pipe-clay is mixed with 
 water, to the consistency of cream; and the water 
 from this clay filters through the sugar, and carries 
 with it the relics and tinge of molasses. The clay 
 serves no other purpose than to retain the water, and 
 prevent its percolation too rapidly through the sugar. 
 The clay is then removed, and you have a loaf of 
 sugar, which is divided into three qualities. The top 
 being the whitest, it is packed in boxes of four hun- 
 dred pounds each, and is known in the commercial 
 world as Havana box sugar. 
 
 The best quality of Muscovado sugar is made by 
 the centrifugal process. The raw material is poured 
 into a machine, which is turned by steam, with great 
 rapidity. In a few minutes you have a well-grained 
 dry sugar, which, packed in hogsheads, is the quality 
 shipped to the United States, while the clayed article 
 goes mainly to Europe. Lime, blood, and animal 
 bones, are used in the manufacture of sugar. The 
 crushed cane is dried and serves as fuel to heat the 
 kettles, in which the sugar is boiled; wood being a 
 scarce article in this part of the Island. Formerly, 
 the grinding was done by ox-power, but recently the 
 American steam engine has been introduced. The 
 buildings and machinery on this estate cost three 
 hundred thousand dollars. The owners work eight 
 hundred hands, and about one thousand oxen; for five 
 months in the year the mill runs night and day — 
 Sunday and Monday. Three hundred acres are 
 
32 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 planted in vegetables, fruit, etc., for the negroes. 
 They will make, this year, twelve thousand boxes and 
 two thousand hogsheads of sugar, beside several thou- 
 sand hogsheads of molasses. The products of this 
 farm would be worth, in the Charleston market, one 
 million of dollars! The good people of the Palmetto 
 State have to pay a duty of thirty dollars per hogs- 
 head, to protect the Louisiana sugar planters, before 
 they are permitted to sweeten their coffee with Cuban 
 sugar. 
 
 The family were invited to a dinner party at St. 
 Helene, and said they would be pleased to have me 
 accompany them, assuring me of a welcome. It suited 
 my humor and objects to see all that could be seen, 
 and I went. There I had an opportunity of observing 
 and hearing much of the manners and customs of the 
 Cuban ladies. I found them intelligent and educated, 
 and as they spoke English, I spent several days at St. 
 Helene. We discussed Cuban manners freely and un- 
 reservedly. I was pleased to be corrected where I 
 had formed erroneous opinions. When introduced to 
 a Creole lady, you think her decidedly flat and unin- 
 teresting. It is the fashion to appear as indifferent as 
 possible; she, however, soon becomes animated, and 
 then look out for those dark, bewitching eyes, and 
 that soft, sweet voice. The education of the females 
 is, however, too much neglected; and then they are 
 much restricted in their intercourse with the world. 
 A very intelligent gentleman told me that the men 
 did not wish to have their wives know as much as 
 they did. I told him, in our country, ignorant wives 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 33 
 
 were, but too frequently, the mothers of worthless 
 and stupid boys. There is a custom here, among 
 some Cuban mothers, which, I think, might be imi- 
 tated by our own people. At sunset a bell is rung, 
 which is a summons for the children to ask a mother's 
 blessing. They each affectionately kiss her hand, 
 the hand is then placed on their head with, "God 
 bless and make you good, my child." 
 
 In the lower classes, the men and women are both 
 ignorant and indolent. They have no ambition to im- 
 prove their condition, morally or physically — gener- 
 ally living in miserable huts. The glory of the men 
 is to attend cock and bull fights, gamble, and roll 
 ninepins ; and the women smoke and idle away their 
 time. Not a book or newspaper is to be seen in their 
 houses ; and they have no knowledge of the world 
 beyond the prescribed limits of the Island. The 
 luxuriant flowers which cover their thatched cottages 
 afford no pleasure to the occupants. It is a waste of 
 beauty and fragrance on uncultivated tastes. The 
 higher classes will no more associate with them than 
 with their servants. 
 
 Here, in this land of flowers and sunshine, you see 
 the withering, cursing blight of Spanish Romanism ; 
 and it is the policy of that government to keep the 
 people in ignorance and midnight darkness. We 
 cannot hope for a change until the star-spangled 
 banner waves triumphantly over Moro Castle. God 
 grant that the day may not be far distant when every 
 man in this beautiful Cuba, can worship his Maker, 
 unmolested, under his own vine and fig tree ! I do 
 5 
 
34 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 not ask that they shall be Methodists or Presbyte- 
 rians ; but I object to the government, because it 
 is a religious and military despotism. Romanism 
 here rides rough-shod over everything. The priests 
 have the reputation of being a very wordly set of 
 men ; but many of their followers are self-sacrificing 
 Christians, of pure and unblemished character. 
 
 You find among the educated Cubans a burning 
 hatred of the Spanish yoke, and they are ready to 
 throw it off whenever they can be assured that the 
 garrote will not be their fate — in other words, when- 
 ever patriotism shall see a reasonable chance of suc- 
 cess ; but at present this class is too feeble and closely 
 watched to accomplish much without foreign aid. I 
 know several planters who pay twenty to thirty thou- 
 sand dollars taxes, and they have no more voice or 
 influence in the government than their slaves. The 
 Captain-General, governors, and all who are in com- 
 mand, are Spaniards, and appointed at the virtuous (?) 
 court of Madrid. The government of Cuba is em- 
 phatically a military despotism ; the edicts are en- 
 forced by the Spanish soldiers. There is a strict 
 censorship exercised over the press here. Every 
 barrel of flour imported from a foreign country pays 
 a duty of ten dollars ! and they are not allowed to 
 grow wheat on their own land. Think of a little 
 Island like Cuba supporting a standing army of forty 
 thousand soldiers, who fatten and revel on the sub- 
 stance of this oppressed people ! The wealthiest 
 planter in Cuba is not permitted to go ten miles from 
 home without a " permit " from a Spanish officer. It 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 35 
 
 is my heart's desire to see this beautiful, fertile Island 
 one of the bright gems in our own constellation. 
 Then, and not till then, will the Cubans acquire free- 
 dom of opinion and conduct, and religious liberty. I 
 want to see the American eagle stretching its wings 
 from Canada to Panama. Cuba belongs to us geo- 
 graphically, and it must be ours politically. Could 
 this take place, the happiness of her own people would 
 be greatly promoted, and we, and the balance of the 
 world, would be benefited. It must be inhabited by 
 those who are able to improve and cultivate it, and 
 establish religious toleration. For fear, however, that 
 you will suspect me of having become a " filibuster," 
 I must stop ; but on this subject more anon. 
 Yours, very truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Flor de Cuba, February, 1856. 
 
LETTER EIGHTH 
 
 More of the Interior — Fruits— ~Climate — Purgatory — 
 Priestcraft — A Little Filibustering — Etc., Etc. 
 
 I extended my visit from Flor de Cuba further 
 south to Ponina, and several other large sugar estates, 
 receiving the kind hospitalities of the planters all 
 along the route. My visit to the interior of the Island 
 has been altogether very interesting and agreeable. 
 Their houses, tables, carriages and servants are at your 
 command, and if you don't have a good time it is 
 your own fault. Here a lover of the beautiful in 
 nature can be gratified to his heart's content. One 
 of my favorite enjoyments is to take early morning 
 strolls through the large gardens, plucking the ripe 
 fruit from the trees. The sweet orange is my favorite. 
 The lemon does not flourish so well. At Alva I 
 counted forty varieties of fruit in one garden. 
 
 It is not surprising that this beautiful Island should 
 be called the garden of the world ; perpetual summer 
 reigns on its flowers and fruits, its sugar-cane, coffee 
 and tobacco plants. The rich soils produce, with 
 little culture, bountiful and almost perpetual crops. 
 Its waters abound in the greatest variety of fish. Its 
 magnificent forest trees alone are a source of study 
 and pleasure. The stately Royal Palm, in my estima- 
 tion, is the king of the forest. 
 
 I went to several dinner-parties. The hour for din- 
 ing is from 5 to 8 o'clock. The Cuban cooking is too 
 
Cuban Correspondence. $7 
 
 rich for me, and they mix garlic and onions and 
 onions and garlic in nearly every dish. It seemed out 
 of season in mid-winter to have spread before you 
 green peas, corn, tomato and all the summer vegetables 
 of our climate. After you have partaken of fish, pork, 
 beef, turkey, sweetmeats, jellies and fruits, your plate 
 in the meanwhile being changed a dozen times, the 
 cloth is removed, and you wind up with coffee, cigars 
 and wine. The ladies do not leave the table, but 
 occasionally enjoy a cigaretta. They regard me as a 
 sort of outside barbarian, as I could not join in drink- 
 ing and smoking. Wine is universally used here, but 
 they seldom drink to intoxication. 
 
 In this hot climate the negroes live mainly on fruit 
 and vegetables. They are allowed salted fish and beef, 
 but no bacon. Rice is cultivated on the uplands, and 
 grows in the wet season. It seldom rains here in the 
 winter, but in summer it comes down in torrents, 
 making the roads, in this limestone country, almost 
 impassable. Miss Bremer says, " no one need fear 
 the night here — it is not cold ; it has no dew." But 
 that fair lady was by no means infallible as an author- 
 ity. If she had taken some early rides with me, she 
 would certainly have seen the morning dew-drops on 
 the beautiful flowers. In the dry season vegetation 
 is kept alive and green- by the refreshing dews. 
 
 I did not like to see the amalgamation that is going 
 on here. It is lawful for a Cuban to have a colored 
 wife and mongrel children. But if a white man will 
 go to Africa for a wife, I see no reason why his chil- 
 dren should not be his heirs. This is the Spanish view 
 
38 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 of the question, and a law was made to recognize the 
 principle, and I commend the government for it. 
 There is a marked partiality among the Creoles for 
 the Southerners : they know we are sound on the 
 Nebraska question. I find quite a number of planters 
 from the United States residing here, and they nearly 
 all hail from the Northern States. It is said they 
 make the hardest masters, but of that I had no evi- 
 dence. I know Mr. F.'s servants were very much 
 distressed when he sold out for the purpose of return- 
 ing to Boston. The queen's mother owned the largest 
 sugar estate on the Island, but became involved, and 
 sold it to a very enterprising Spaniard. This gentle- 
 man was ambitious to make large crops, and promised 
 his overseer fifty thousand dollars when he made five 
 thousand hogsheads of sugar, and last year they made 
 fifty-five hundred. It is said the negroes were worked 
 so hard that three hundred died ; but this calamity 
 was charged to cholera, and I doubt not that this fatal 
 disease was the main cause of the mortality. I am 
 surprised to find children here, even among the rich, 
 only half clad; and many of the lower classes do not 
 have a covering of fig leaves. The blacks on these 
 plantations are often not better clad than their fore- 
 fathers in the wilds of Africa. 
 
 Recently the owner of that estate died, and the 
 funeral at Cienfugos cost ten thousand dollars. His 
 remains were then removed to Havana. His dis- 
 tressed widow was told that her husband's soul was 
 in purgatory, and it would require twenty thousand 
 dollars to efet him out ! 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 39 
 
 I felt a great curiosity to witness the ceremonies 
 performed for that purpose. The church was robed 
 in mourning, and illuminated by immense candles, 
 supported on candlesticks eight feet high ; incense 
 was burned in censers throughout the church, and 
 there was one grand display of priestly pharisaism, 
 witnessed by thousands of people. I was told that 
 the priests made sixteen to eighteen thousand dollars 
 clear. How ridiculous to suppose a man's spiritual 
 condition can be changed after he is dead, or his sins 
 expiated by the interposition of priestly ceremonials. 
 The Romish clergy avail themselves of every oppor- 
 tunity to fleece their followers. For fifty cents, they 
 will sell a dispensation which entitles the purchaser to 
 the privilege of sinning for forty days ! 
 
 A large revenue is derived from this species of 
 imposition. The indulgences are generally purchased 
 by the poor and ignorant. In this way these deluded 
 people are encouraged in wickedness. I bought one, 
 but found it was of no use, as I was required to 
 believe in the priest, pope and the devil, to make it 
 available — a trio that I do not fancy. You may judge 
 of the religious condition of a people with such spirit- 
 ual teachers. 
 
 But, apart from the religious view of the question, 
 the political importance of Cuba to the United States 
 cannot easily be over-estimated. It commands the 
 Gulf of Mexico, and is almost within cannon-shot of 
 the Florida coast. England and France are watching 
 with a jealous eye our every movement. Their war- 
 ships are to be seen in all the ports. They profess to 
 
40 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 be on the lookout for African slavers : at the same 
 time they are aiding in the introduction of slavery of 
 the worst kind. When the Spanish officials fired into 
 our ship, and insulted the American flag, that was the 
 time to have put this garden of Spain into our family 
 group. We may never have such an opportunity 
 again. 
 
 The planters are getting one hundred per cent, 
 more for sugar and molasses this year than last. 
 Sugar-cane is king here. The tobacco crop is next 
 in value. It is estimated that the productions of Cuba 
 this year will be worth one hundred millions of dol- 
 lars ! The population is fifteen hundred thousand. 
 The Island is capable of supporting ten times that 
 number of inhabitants. The annual exports amount 
 to six hundred million pounds of sugar and eighty 
 million coffee. The export of tobacco is about ten 
 millions, partly in the leaf, besides three hundred 
 millions manufactured cigars. Railroads are being 
 built in every direction ; some six hundred miles are 
 already completed. Steamboats also are constantly 
 running on the northern and southern coasts. I was 
 surprised to find here such high mountains, from 
 which clear mountain rivulets come tumbling into the 
 valleys, furnishing pure, wholesome water. Next 
 week I propose, please Providence, to go to Yucatan. 
 I wish to look at the " ruins" of that antique country, 
 the origin of which must, in all probability, forever 
 remain a mystery. 
 
 Yours, truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
LETTER NINTH 
 
 In Havana Again — Tomb of Columbus — The Cathedral 
 — The Fish Market — Bull Fight — Execution of Crit- 
 tenden and Lopez. 
 
 Once more, my friend, you see me in Havana, 
 reviewing with renewed zest and better knowledge, 
 the various objects that have already interested me so 
 much. A friend met me to-day at Principe, and said, 
 " Is it possible you are not tired of sight-seeing yet ?" 
 Tired, indeed! I would just as soon expect to grow 
 weary of looking on a face that I love, as to tire in 
 beholding the thousand and one objects of interest 
 and attraction to be found accumulated here. 
 
 Before going to the interior I did not have an oppor- 
 tunity of satisfactorily examining the paintings and 
 tomb of Columbus, which are to be seen in the world- 
 renowned Cathedral of San Ignacio. This edifice is 
 near the governor's palace. Its moss-covered exterior 
 makes it look as old as the hills and rocks by which 
 it is surrounded. I was standing in front of the old 
 monastery and wondering how long it had been built, 
 when a priest came out of a side gate, and I asked 
 him the question. He made no reply, but rang a bell, 
 which was answered by an intelligent looking negro 
 man, who beckoned me to follow him. We went 
 through several dark rooms, up the steps and down 
 again. I did not know but that he was leading me 
 6 
 
42 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 to the hall of the inquisition, but I was soon relieved 
 when he opened a large back door, and pointed to a 
 white marble tablet in the wall, in which were de- 
 posited the bones of one of the greatest men that ever 
 lived. 
 
 It appears that the priest understood me as wishing 
 to see the tomb of Columbus. This, certainly, was 
 my desire also, but he failed to comprehend my ques- 
 tion, put in broken Spanish. 
 
 The discovery, by Columbus, of the New World, 
 awakened new life and energy in the Old, and has 
 done much, very much, to promote and spread the 
 Christian religion. The young mariner seemed in- 
 spired with a belief that El Dorado, a great realm of 
 gold, was to be found somewhere in the West, and he 
 could not rest until he had started in search of it. 
 He walked from court to court, pleading for means to 
 carry into effect his cherished object. He at last 
 attained them. See him on the broad ocean, with his 
 light craft and mutinous crew, pushing his way west- 
 ward, in strange and hitherto unknown and unrecorded 
 seas. Columbus was a brave, bold, adventurous mari- 
 ner. It were worth a long life-time of toil and struggle 
 to enjoy what he did on the discovery of the New 
 World. 
 
 Columbus was rewarded with chains, and received 
 the hisses and insults of the rabble. I looked with all 
 my eyes for those chains which others had seen here, 
 but they were not to be found. Although slandered, 
 persecuted and abused while living, posterity seems 
 ready to do homage to his memory, by erecting a 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 43 
 
 magnificent marble monument, which is nearly com- 
 pleted in Genoa, (his native city,) and will soon be 
 erected in La Plaza here. 
 
 I spent hours within the sacred walls of the cathe- 
 dral. It is ornamented with many fine paintings, and 
 the dome is beautifully decorated with figures in 
 fresco. The recesses are filled with shrines of various 
 saints, but I do not admire this style of architecture; 
 it always reminds me of the wax figures I used to see 
 exhibited by itinerant showmen. The high ceiling is 
 supported by two ranges of massive columns ; between 
 these, are several confessionals, and four side pulpits. 
 From the latter, priests chant sermons in Latin, which 
 very few of the hearers understand. I ascended one 
 of the pulpits and made the old walls ring with a 
 Protestant voice. My guide looked very much fright- 
 ened, and was preparing to take French leave, and as 
 I did not know but that he might turn the key on me, 
 I went with him. My audience was deaf and dumb, 
 so I could not expect to make them converts to 
 Protestantism. 
 
 Oh, what a blessed thing it would be, if our eloquent 
 ministers could stand in these sanctuaries, and preach 
 the word of God in sincerity and truth to the thou- 
 sands of immortal beings, who confess their sins to 
 the priests, and worship images made by men's hands, 
 instead of Christ, who died that they might live. In- 
 fidelity seems to have taken possession of the people. 
 They are not allowed to read or interpret the Bible. 
 The more I see of Spanish Romanism, the greater 
 dread I have of its cursing, blighting, and contaminat- 
 
44 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 ing influence. The confessional, the sale of indul- 
 gences, and the religion which teaches that money 
 will get your soul out of purgatory, are all bad, bad! 
 As^much as I reverence churches, I was heartily glad 
 to see many of the largest here taken from the priests, 
 and converted into stores of merchandise. 
 
 After a lapse of nearly three centuries, the bones of 
 Columbus were brought from Hispaniola, in 1796, at 
 an enormous expense, and with great pomp and show, 
 deposited in this cathedral. There I hope they will 
 remain long after Cuba becomes a State of the Ameri- 
 can Union. 
 
 Near the cathedral is the celebrated fish market. 
 It is nearly two hundred feet long, with a marble table 
 extending nearly the whole length of the building. 
 Again and again, have I visited this place, being 
 always gratified in looking at the fishes of beautiful 
 colors and shapes. I suppose the Havana fish market 
 is unequalled for variety and quality. It is a govern- 
 ment monopoly, and those who eat fish have to pay 
 dearly for the luxury. A notorious pirate by the 
 name of Masti, Judas like, betrayed his party, and 
 was rewarded with a monopoly of the sale of fish. 
 For twenty years, having the game all in his own 
 hands, he realized an immense fortune, and built the 
 Tacon Theatre, another monopoly — which is said to 
 be the most expensive thing of the kind in the world, 
 having cost two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 
 
 When a mountain boy, I read thrilling accounts of 
 Spanish bull-fights, and wondered if they could be 
 true. Yesterday I had an opportunity of witnessing 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 45 
 
 with mine own eyes these horrid scenes. For the 
 past ten days little else has been talked of in Havana 
 but the great bull-fight, which was to take place on 
 the first $unday in March. You may well imagine 
 that my "forty days dispensation" did not entirely 
 relieve my conscience, to allow me to witness a bull- 
 fight on a peaceful Sabbath day; but I came here not 
 to make things as I would have them, but to see them 
 as they really exist. The arena for this cruel Cuban 
 sport is well selected, as it is in the old town of Regla, 
 across the harbor from Havana. Regla has long been 
 the haunt of pirates, robbers and murderers, and is, 
 consequently, a fit place for bull-fights and bull-fight- 
 ers. The building used for this purpose covers half 
 an acre of ground. The seats are raised one above 
 another, after the fashion of circus exhibitions with 
 us. The lower tier is of sufficient height to protect 
 you from the sharp horns of the enraged animals. At 
 the shrill blast of the bugle, a wild bull rushes into 
 the circle, where he encounters two men on foot, and 
 two on horseback, the former armed with swords, the 
 latter with spears. They begin at once to worry the 
 bull, by firing spears, with rockets attached, into his 
 breast and side. These rockets explode in his flesh, 
 burning, lacerating, and enraging the poor creature. 
 The horsemen's spears, were also thrust into his flesh, 
 while crimson colors were flaunted before his fiery 
 eyes. In a short time the creature became enraged 
 and frantically mad, and would plunge first at the 
 gladiators, then at the poor blind-folded horses, pierc- 
 ing his sharp horns into the very vitals of the helpless 
 
46 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 m 
 
 animals. At this juncture the men on foot would 
 plunge their swords to the very hilt into the neck of 
 the bull. The animal would stagger, tremble and fall 
 dead at their feet, amid the screams and yells of count- 
 less men, women and boys. On this occasion, there 
 were four bulls and three horses killed, and one of the 
 men badly, if not mortally wounded. I saw several 
 women eager spectators of this horrid scene, but not 
 a lady. So far as I can learn, few persons of respecta- 
 bility of that sex attend bull-fights on the Island of 
 Cuba. I do not think I could ever be tempted to wit- 
 ness a repetition of yesterday's terrible scenes at Regla. 
 It is, however, a national institution, and should be 
 witnessed by the stranger. In Madrid, it is said, the 
 queen occupies the royal box at the bull-fights. We 
 should not be surprised that the virtuous Queen of 
 Spain patronized such savage sports. If report be true, 
 this is the least objectionable part of her conduct. 
 
 I have visited the Castle of Atares, where the brave 
 Crittenden and party were shot. Crittenden was 
 ordered to turn his back to the soldiers, and kneel. 
 He replied that Americans knelt only to their God, 
 and died facing the enemy. I also visited the fortress 
 of the Punta, where General Lopez was garroted. He 
 asked to be shot, but Concha inflicted the most infa- 
 mous punishment — the garrote. Lopez's last words 
 were: "I die for my beloved Cuba, dear Cuba." You 
 may next hear from me locked up in the Cabanas, and 
 waiting my turn at the garrote. Queen sabe ! We 
 shall see. ' G. W. W. 
 
 Hairana, March, 1856. 
 
LETTER TENTH 
 
 Moro Castle Visited — "Building" up a Fortune — The 
 American Consul. 
 
 Charles III, King of Spain, was one day observed 
 to be looking very intently through his spy-glass in 
 the direction of Cuba. Some one asked his majesty 
 at what he was looking. He replied at Moro Castle, 
 and the Cabanas. The king thought that fortifica- 
 tions costing so much money ought to be seen from 
 Madrid to Havana. 
 
 My curiosity to see and examine these strong forti- 
 fications was very great, and, doubtless, was height- 
 ened by the fact that the Captain-General had given 
 orders that no American should be permitted to enter 
 their walls. This edict was issued in consequence of 
 the late filibustering movements in the United States. 
 I applied to my Spanish, Cuban and American friends 
 to aid me in procuring a permit, but without success. 
 I then went to our consul, Mr. Robinson, and told him 
 that the only favor I had to ask of him was to pro- 
 cure for me a passport from the Captain-General, to 
 visit Moro and the CabaHas. 
 
 "My dear sir, I should like very much to accommo- 
 date you, but I am requested not even to make an 
 application for such a thing." 
 
 This looked very discouraging, indeed, but I had 
 made up my mind to go, and risk the consequences. 
 I took the precaution to inform some friends of my 
 
48 Cuban Corresponde?icc. 
 
 intentions, and told them if I did not return in proper 
 season to the hotel, to notify Messrs. D. & Co., and 
 some other commercial houses. This precaution 
 taken, I went to the harbor opposite the gate, lead- 
 ing into the fortifications, and hired a boatman to row 
 me over. Landed safely on the opposite shore, I 
 began the ascent. As I was climbing the steep hill, 
 and saw the armed soldiers awaiting my arrival, my 
 heart beat rather faster than usual; but I knew if I 
 faltered, "Gibraltar" could not be taken; so on and 
 upward I marched. Just in front of the gate stood 
 the watchful sentinels. As I was about to pass them, 
 they cried out, 
 
 " Qiiien vivef" "who goes?" 
 
 I drew from my pocket a couple of letters, held 
 them up, bowed and passed in. And now I felt that 
 the enemy was "surrounded," and I breathed easier. 
 
 In every direction you could see the busy soldier. 
 Standing on the walls were men blowing the war 
 trumpet, which was the signal for the soldiers to turn 
 out for general parade. Some four thousand made 
 their appearance, and marched to the open field in 
 rear of the fortifications. ' I went down to view them, 
 and was saluted by the officers. I spent an hour in 
 seeing them drilled, and then continued my visit 
 through the fortress. I should pronounce Moro 
 Castle and the Cabanas, in the possession of the 
 Americans, impregnable; but in the hands of the flat- 
 headed Spanish soldiers it could be taken in forty- 
 eight hours. The weak point in the fortifications is 
 in the rear. The walls, which are of immense thick- 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 49 
 
 ness and height, are built of soft limestone, and 
 would not stand long under heavy cannonading. The 
 soldiers look clean, and their quarters are very com- 
 fortable; but I never before saw so many idiotic coun- 
 tenances outside of a mad-house. Several hundred 
 criminals were at work, loaded with heavy chains. 
 Within the massive walls of Moro Castle are dun- 
 geons for prisoners, who are under sentence for the 
 garrote or the galley. These poor creatures present 
 a piteous spectacle. 
 
 From the Castle of Moro, which stands proudly on 
 its craggy eminence, you have a magnificent view of 
 Havana and its beautiful harbor, filled with hundreds 
 of vessels, also of the deep blue sea, bearing on its 
 restless bosom the ships of nearly every nation. 
 Near the top of the castle is a very large telescope, 
 through which an enemy's war ship can be seen at a 
 great distance. From this point a signal may be 
 given, and by means of mirrors placed on the top of 
 the high houses in Havana, which reflect these signals, 
 the intelligence is thus spread throughout the city, 
 with telegraphic swiftness. This arrangement is so 
 perfected, that the merchant sits in his counting-room, 
 and has but to look at the mirror in his clock, to 
 know what vessels are in sight of Moro Castle. 
 
 It is a grand sight to see the waves with their un- 
 dulating swell, come dashing against the foundation 
 of old Moro, sending their spray, thirty feet high. 
 The Gulf Stream is so clear you can see the rain- 
 bow-colored fishes playing through the blue water a 
 hundred feet below. I selected a fine point for obser- 
 7 
 
50 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 vation, and was taking sketches in my note book, 
 when I saw at a distance some officers eying me 
 rather closely, and they dispatched a number of sol- 
 diers in that direction. I quietly changed my position, 
 and escaped their closer attentions. I have no desire 
 to take my turn at the garrote. 
 
 Since my arrival in Cuba, I have visited no place of 
 such deep and thrilling interest to me as this fortress. 
 But I cannot imagine how they have expended upon 
 it fifty to seventy millions of dollars; unless they 
 profited by the advice of an old Spaniard to his 
 nephew, who was sent from Spain to Havana by the 
 government, with a salary insufficient to support him 
 in that expensive city. He wrote to his uncle, urging 
 an increase in his salary. The uncle replied, making 
 no allusion to the request ; but at the bottom of his 
 letter was written the word "build." The poor fellow 
 was nearly ready to starve, and how could he build? 
 He wrote again and again, and that mysterious word 
 was at the bottom of each of his uncle's letters. He 
 asked a friend if he could explain that word, and was 
 informed that those who let out government contracts 
 received a large share of the profits, and in that way 
 realized fortunes. The young man took the hint, 
 went to building, and troubled his uncle no more 
 about his salary. It has occurred to me that there is 
 considerable "building" going on among our govern- 
 ment officials, and they, no doubt, find it quite profita- 
 ble. I think they ought to give the American Consul 
 an opportunity of letting out a few contracts, or in- 
 crease his salary ; for his pay is not sufficient to 
 
Ciiban Correspondence. 5 1 
 
 support a free negro decently in this expensive city. 
 And would you believe it, the representative of our 
 great American Government keeps a bread bakery, 
 and lives, and eats, and sleeps over his oven ! Is not 
 this a shame? A young John Bull said to me very 
 sneeringly one day, "we give Mr. Crawford, our 
 consul, twenty-five thousand dollars." I replied, "yes, 
 and you may add, also, you have to borrow the 
 money to pay him with." I could not but think of 
 that "eighteen millions of dollars surplus" in the 
 treasury, and the American Consul compelled to bake 
 ginger cakes for a living ! I found Mr. Robinson a 
 very clever gentleman, disposed to do his utmost for 
 the accommodation and comfort of his countrymen; 
 but how can a man entertain his friends without 
 money? Mr. R. has a clever wife, quite young 
 enough to be his daughter, and they have a nice little 
 boy, eight years old, who can already speak four 
 languages, and is now diving into Dutch. But I am 
 wandering. Adieu. G. W. W. 
 
LETTER ELEVENTH 
 
 A Visit to Campo Santo, or Havana Cemetery. 
 
 In the early part of January, 1852, when the Cali- 
 fornia gold fever was at its height in Georgia and the 
 Carolinas, about twenty young men formed them- 
 selves into the " Nacoochee Mining Company." Bid- 
 ding adieu to dear friends, with bright expectations, 
 they started for the land of gold, hoping, by a few 
 years of hardship and privation to return to " sweet 
 home," rich in the good things of this world. 
 
 Alas, for human hopes ! In that company was a 
 much loved brother, and several young men, the play- 
 mates of my youth. They passed through Augusta — 
 my home at that time. I did all that I could to 
 persuade my brother not to go ; but finding my argu- 
 ments unsuccessful, I accompanied him to Charleston, 
 to assist in his departure. There we found persons 
 from all sections of the country on their way to Cali- 
 fornia — young men who had left their hearts with the 
 blooming daughters of the mountains, whose hands 
 they were to claim when they returned with their 
 pockets filled with dimes and dollars, and dollars and 
 dimes. All of these adventurers were to go as far as 
 Havana, in the Steamship Isabel. The state-rooms 
 were engaged, and these poor fellows had to be 
 crowded and packed together in the bottom of the 
 ship, without air, light, or any of the comforts of life. 
 But what will not a man endure for gold ! 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 53 
 
 When they reached Havana many were sick, and 
 one of my young friends died. To-day I thought I 
 would see where they had buried him. 
 
 I went, and Heaven forbid that I should ever look 
 upon such a scene again ! The cemetery is about 
 three miles out, and laid off into squares of an acre 
 each ; the dividing walls are wide enough on each side 
 for one vault, and sufficiently high for five. In these 
 vaults the rich saints of the "holy mother church" 
 are placed to remain ten years. If the friends at that 
 time are unwilling, or cannot afford to stand another 
 heavy money depletion, the remains are removed and 
 scattered to the winds. Heretic gold cannot procure 
 a resting place in any of these vaults. Do you wish to 
 know what they do with the poor and the strangers 
 who die here ? Ah, this is the heart-sickening pic- 
 ture ! 
 
 When I entered the grounds, I observed several 
 negroes digging trenches, about two feet deep, and O, 
 horror ! to see these fellows digging up the bones of 
 human beings, scattering them in every direction, the 
 long hair and grave clothes strewed all round — the 
 sight was revolting. I had not been there long, when 
 I saw four men bearing a corpse on a slight frame. 
 They were smoking and chatting in as lively a mood 
 as if on their way to a wedding party. 
 
 The corpse was that of a young woman; her clothes 
 were rent and she was pitched into the trench without 
 ceremony. There was no one to shed a tear over her 
 grave. The dead are not buried in coffins ; quick 
 lime is applied freely to promote and hasten decom- 
 
54 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 position. The clothes are torn to prevent the body 
 from being taken up. Some men make it a business 
 to hire coffins and clothing for funeral occasions. 
 
 I next saw six men bring in the body of a very large 
 man. Some difficulties arose among the " undertak- 
 ers," which I thought would end in a fight. A third 
 corpse was brought and deposited in a shallow pit. 
 
 The last interment was that of a little girl. Her 
 beautiful eyes were not closed; there was a heavenly 
 smile on her sweet, innocent face; she had left earth 
 before becoming contaminated by the poison of the 
 Old Serpent. I thought of my "lost flowers," which 
 were nipped in the bud by the frosts of death, and 
 I was reminded of the lines composed by their 
 grandfather : 
 
 " The flowers we loved, were lent us for a day — 
 So sweetly blooming, yet how short their stay ! 
 Their opening charms were seen with fond delight — 
 So fresh, so fair, so beautiful, so bright I 
 These lovely buds, new beauties to disclose, 
 We fondly hoped would open to the rose, 
 And these fair roses grace our sweetest bowers, 
 Watered by early dews, and softest showers. 
 We held them to our hearts, with fondest care, 
 And strove, but vainly strove, to keep them there 
 For, in fond love's devoted arms caress'd, 
 Their opening beauties withered on her breast 
 The precious boon, we could no longer keep, 
 They felt the chilling frost and fell asleep — 
 But not forever, in the dust to lie. 
 Oh, no I the stars that glitter in the sky, 
 Whisper each night of immortality ; 
 The bow of promise drest in sweet array, 
 Tells of another and a better day ; 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 55 
 
 Fair Spring shall smiling come, with odors sweet, 
 
 To breathe upon the flowers beneath her feet ; 
 
 That kiss shall life, and health, and joy restore, 
 
 And in fresh beauty, they shall fade no more. 
 
 Sleep on, sleep on, pale flowers, and take your rest, 
 
 Soon shall ye wake in heavenly radiance drest, 
 
 Soon, from the dust more beautiful arise, 
 
 To sweetly bloom and blossom in the skies. 
 
 " Lost flowers?" Oh, no ! not lost — we part in pain, 
 
 But, in a little while, shall meet again. 
 
 Ye shall be " Gathered Flowerets" to abide 
 
 In that sweet Eden by the river side. 
 
 We hope to meet you in that blest abode: 
 
 The Paradise above, the Garden of our God." 
 
 Here, in Havana, it seems that the friends of the 
 dead do not attend the corpse to the grave. The 
 burials are left to cold, heartless "undertakers." It is 
 enough to chill one's blood, even under a tropical sun, 
 to witness the careless and indifferent manner in 
 which they perform their duties. With us, the dark- 
 ness of the tomb is illuminated by the pleasing 
 thought, that when we have gone down into the 
 silence of death, dear friends will visit our graves, and 
 with tender, loving hands deck our beds with sweet 
 flowers. Having seen enough of the " resting" place 
 in Havana, I returned to my hotel, and gave direction 
 if I died in Cuba, to bury me in the sea — anywhere 
 but in a Catholic cemetery. 
 
 A word more about the Nacoochee Mining Com- 
 pany. My brother was quite ill at Panama, but left 
 in the Sir Charles Napier, for San Francisco. The 
 third day out he died, and was buried in the Pacific 
 Ocean. Very few of this hopeful little company lived 
 
56 C lib an Correspondence. 
 
 to return to their homes. Most of them were mem- 
 bers of the church, and I trust Christians. They all 
 had their Bibles with them, when they left Charleston. 
 How mysterious are the ways of Providence ! Here 
 was a company of religious men, who might have 
 exerted a good, virtuous influence in that land of 
 irreligion and wickedness; but God knew what was 
 best for them, and removed them ere they encountered 
 the temptations of their new home. There is a day 
 coming, when we shall see love and mercy in these 
 sad and grievous afflictions, which so crush and over- 
 whelm us now. O, for a submissive heart, to patiently 
 await that day, when we shall, with the "lost flowers," 
 be gathered to our eternal home, there to abide and 
 rejoice with them forever! 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
LETTER TWELFTH 
 
 Closing the Correspondence — Tilings Unwritten — Coming 
 Home — Key West — ' ' Sponging " — A Storm — At 
 Home. 
 
 Lest I should tire you and others, my friend, with 
 my "Cuban Correspondence," I propose to forego all 
 further sight-seeing for the present, and return home. 
 I did think of giving an account of the vast variety 
 of other topics, such as the murder of Pinta — 
 the Santa Clara Nunnery — the prison — a visit to 
 Buenos Ayres, on the Cerro road — a party at the 
 English Consul's — a visit to the south side of the 
 Island — an unsuccessful attempt to visit Yucatan — a 
 visit to the Isle of Pines in the Caribbean Sea, and the 
 robbery there of a New Orleans acquaintance — King's 
 day in Havana, when the negroes reign supreme — 
 of the splendid mahogany wharves, a mile long, 
 fastened down with copper rivets, covered the whole 
 length, roof supported on iron posts. Also, a word 
 more about society in Cuba, not forgetting the 
 priests — its climate — productions — population — gov- 
 ernment — commerce — the censors of the press — the 
 modern slave-trade of Cuba — -black soldiers — "snobs" 
 among the sugar noblemen — the night-watch and 
 their hideous scream, " all is well," "no fire," " weather 
 fair," "half-past eleven o'clock" — holding lamps at 
 each corner of the streets, giving lights for the rogues 
 to steal by — the hotels, not forgetting our landlord and 
 his noisy horses — what the "Queen of the Antilles" 
 8 
 
58 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 will be, when she becomes a gem of the Southern 
 constellation, and other matters — but, in charity to 
 you, I forbear. These topics will keep till I go home. 
 
 Quitting the beautiful Island of Cuba is like taking 
 leave of a dear friend. In her genial clime my health 
 and spirits have improved. I have received from 
 strangers much kindness. They will be remembered 
 by me with gratitude. It was my intention to go 
 from Havana to New Orleans, and then up the 
 Mississippi River, but when the Steamer Isabel ar- 
 rived, I could not resist the temptation of returning in 
 her. The agents, Messrs. Drake & Co., kindly offered 
 me the selection of a state-room, and when that was 
 secured, I was impatient to be off. The steamer was 
 to sail at 7 o'clock, A. M. The captain gave me per- 
 mission to sleep on board, but a friend was very sick 
 in my room, and I remained with him. At day- 
 light next morning, I was on the wharf ready to be 
 rowed out to the ship. There I found an officer who 
 wished to see how much of La Habana I was taking 
 off with me. A peso quieted his curiosity, I jumped 
 into a little boat, and was soon on board the favorite 
 Isabel. We steamed out of the beautiful harbor quite 
 early. Nothing can exceed the scenery presented to 
 our view between Havana and the point of the Cape. 
 It was, indeed, painful to feel that I was leaving these 
 beautiful shores, perhaps never again to revisit them. 
 
 The morning was lovely, and bright as our own 
 sweet May. The blue sea sparkled with unusual 
 lustre. The balmy south air was of Cuban purity 
 and clearness, I stood silently on deck, taking a last 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 59 
 
 long look at Havana. Farewell to thee, bright land 
 of flowers and sunshine ; thy rich and varied beauties 
 are daguerreotyped on the tablet of my memory. 
 When far away, I can shut my eyes, and see this 
 lovely panorama, as fadeless as memory itself. We 
 passed under the guns of the Moro and Cabafias, but 
 feared them not, as the stars and stripes waved 
 proudly over our heads. A severe "norther," which 
 had prevailed for several days, left the Gulf Stream in 
 great commotion. Very soon nearly every passenger 
 was sick — sick. 
 
 At 4 P. M., we arrived at Key West. I wished to 
 show some friends, and a German count, our tropical 
 town. We passed through the principal streets, and 
 stopped at a store to buy some sponge, which is col- 
 lected here in large quantities, and is of superior 
 quality. 
 
 It is said by naturalists that these sponges are pro- 
 duced by minute sea animals called polypi ; they are, 
 therefore, analogous in their origin to coral, though 
 quite different in their nature. 
 
 I had selected a very fine specimen, but before I 
 could pay for it, the signal for the departure of our 
 steamer was given, and we arrived just as they were 
 removing the last plank. The owner of the sponge 
 followed us, and brought the piece I had selected. 
 My German companion appropriated it to himself. 
 
 When this gentleman (?) arrived in Havana sick, I 
 gave him my room — before knowing, however, that 
 he belonged to the nobility ; but when he took the 
 sponge I had selected, I came to the conclusion that, 
 
60 Cuban Correspondence. 
 
 count or king, he did not know what politeness was; 
 so I cut his acquaintance, and did not show him the 
 Queen City, as I had intended to do. There is a 
 disposition among us republicans to court the society 
 of the European nobility, and we often get well 
 sponged for our trouble and snobbishness. It is 
 surprising, in a country on whose banner is inscribed 
 "honor and shame from no condition rise," to see the 
 vast deal of truckling there is to titled aristocracy, 
 regardless of merit or virtue. 
 
 The day after leaving Key West, dark clouds began 
 to gather in the north, and our captain watched them 
 with marked anxiety. But he is an old sailor, and has 
 heard loud thunder, and has seen storms and clouds 
 before. We felt, though danger might surround us 
 while winding our way in darkness through the Flor- 
 ida reefs and breakers, that our commander was a 
 man of tried experience, upon whose skill and judg- 
 ment we could rely. 
 
 At 12 o'clock the storm had increased to a gale, 
 the ship labored heavily, and as the waves would dash 
 over the deck, she groaned and trembled in every 
 timber. About this time a loud crash was heard, the 
 furniture was overturned, the pictures fell to the floor, 
 and the lamps were smashed to pieces, leaving us in 
 midnight darkness. A few screams from the children, 
 moanings from the ladies, and prayers from the men, 
 and all was comparatively quiet — but the storm con- 
 tinued with fury. Our noble ship, one moment riding 
 on top of a mountain billow, and then hiding below 
 the troubled waves, it seemed would go down to rise 
 
Cuban Correspondence. 61 
 
 no more. During that night there were few eyes 
 closed for sleep. I went on deck several times -to 
 witness the sight, which was awfully sublime. I do 
 not say that I was alarmed ; but I certainly should 
 have felt much safer among the bears, alligators, and 
 wild Indians in the most dismal swamp on the Florida 
 coast. Morning came, and the storm moderated, but 
 it was a dark, dismal day. 
 
 The United States mail and several Savannah pas- 
 sengers were landed near Tybee, in a heavy rain. I 
 felt sorry for the ladies. Here we got the first glimpse 
 of the beloved Palmetto State. While crossing the 
 Savannah bar, the steamer struck several times heavily, 
 causing much excitement among the passengers, but 
 no harm was done. Monday found us safely in the 
 Charleston harbor. After a strict examination by the 
 customhouse officers, we were permitted to land 
 among the cotton bales, which lined the wharves in 
 every direction. Cotton certainly is king in Charles- 
 ton. I got into a carriage, and in a short time was 
 safely restored to my own dear home. There I found 
 my good sister and darling little Willie. " What did 
 you bring for me, papa ?" " I brought myself." " I'd 
 rather had a pony !" 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Charleston, S. C, March, 1856. 
 
SKETCHES 
 
 WAYSIDE TRAVEL, 
 
 UNITED STATES AND BRITISH AMERICA. 
 
WAYSIDE TRAVEL. 
 
 LETTER FIRST 
 
 TJie Advocate's " Cuban Correspondent" — To Baltimore 
 — Methodism in Baltimore — The "Quaker City" — 
 New York— The St. Nicholas— Rev. Mr. Milbum— 
 Politics. 
 
 Your " Cuban Correspondent" is again on the wing, 
 but in this fast country there is no Spanish poco-a-poco 
 movement. One travels with such telegraphic swift- 
 ness, he has not time to take in or note down the 
 thousand and one objects of interest that surround 
 him on every side. A railroad ride from Charleston 
 to Norfolk furnishes, to a lover of nature, much to 
 admire. The moss-clad swamps of the Carolinas and 
 Virginia are peculiarly interesting to me. At Ports- 
 mouth, you find elegant steamers, and after twelve 
 hours pleasant run, you are safely landed in the 
 " Monumental City." The sound of the various 
 church bells, tells you that it is Sunday in Baltimore ; 
 and, as true Wesleyan Methodists never travel on 
 Sunday, we will rest here and go to the house of 
 worship. 
 
 The Methodists in Maryland are head and should- 
 ers above all other Christian denominations. They 
 have fifty churches in Baltimore ; but is it not marvel- 
 9 
 
66 Wayside Travel. 
 
 lous that these slaveholding Methodists should adhere 
 to the Church North, thereby encouraging the abo- 
 litionists ? It has been my rule to judge men by the 
 company they keep. Their appeal to Southern mer- 
 chants to patronize "our Southern city," has not much 
 merit in it. I had rather trade with an avowed enemy, 
 than a pretended friend. If those who live South of 
 Mason and Dixon's line are not willing to support 
 and protect Southern institutions, I should like to see 
 the line moved to accommodate them. It is hard to 
 serve two masters. 
 
 The Methodists of Baltimore have some fine 
 churches. Did you ever hear of the Charles Street 
 "silk-stocking" Church? It is pewed, cushioned, 
 "quired," and organed. The angelic portion of the 
 congregation — don't they dress! If an old "Rip Van 
 Winkle" Methodist should happen to wake up in 
 one of the splendid churches North, and see the 
 stained glass, velvet carpets, frescoed wall, and hear 
 the organ — he would more likely conclude he was in 
 a Catholic Cathedral than in a Methodist meeting- 
 house. Well, I have heard this was a fast age, and 
 fast people — and it is said, too, this is a wicked world. 
 Old fogyism would say, it is the people who are 
 wicked — but I have not done with these Southern 
 Methodists with Northern principles. You would sup- 
 pose that Christians, whose sympathies are so great 
 for Africa, would have a careful eye to the spiritual 
 welfare of her people. Their love (?) for the negro 
 has driven him from their houses of worship — the 
 simple melody of the slave is no longer music to their 
 
Wayside Travel. 67 
 
 refined ears. Our old Charleston Trinity Church has 
 more colored members than a score of Baltimore 
 churches, and when you cast your eye to the 
 galleries, the blacks are not there. 
 
 Maryland was settled by Roman Catholics. The 
 Cathedral in Baltimore is one of the finest churches in 
 the United States. Baltimore is the third city in the 
 Union, finely located for commerce, and is improving 
 rapidly. You have, from the Washington Monu- 
 ment, a magnificent view of the city and surrounding 
 country. 
 
 I took only a bird's-eye view of the "Quaker City." 
 It is a clever town, and looks as if it would be a nice 
 quiet place for a retired gentleman to live in. 
 
 But, ho for New York! * Here Young America is 
 found wide awake ! One continual rush from early 
 morn till late at night. I stopped at the St. Nicholas. 
 It is the great Southern house — the depot for the 
 belles and the beaux. Thackeray pronounced it the 
 finest hotel in the world ! The furniture cost the 
 snug little sum of half a million dollars ! The silver 
 plate alone cost over one hundred thousand ! The 
 inhabitants of this house number more than those of 
 most of our Southern towns. We Southerners abuse 
 the Yankees and come here and spend our money as 
 if it grew on trees. There is nothing, however, like 
 keeping up appearances. 
 
 I found our friend, Milburn, in fine health and 
 spirits, and I am now enjoying the hospitalities of 
 his kind family. They are pleasantly situated in a 
 desirable part of the city. Mr. M. preaches twice 
 
68 Wayside Travel. 
 
 every Sabbath. At night his service is held in the 
 Central Methodist Church, and he commands the 
 largest congregation in the city. The aisles are filled 
 with chairs and benches to accommodate the people. 
 Derby & Co. are publishing his " Rifle, Axe and 
 Saddlebags." So you may expect soon to hear the 
 keen sound of his sharp Rifle. 
 
 There is considerable political excitement here, but 
 they find it an up-hill business to work the people into 
 enthusiasm for either of the candidates. The Repub- 
 licans think Fremont a second Washington] — an im- 
 provement, however, on the old General. It amuses 
 me to see inscribed on the Fremont banners, "The 
 Union Candidate." "The Union must and shall be 
 preserved." It is thought by many that he will get a 
 large majority of the non-slaveholding States. This 
 is an illustration of the sad effects of ministers of the 
 gospel converting their pulpits into political rostrums. 
 In Fremont you have a fine commentary on the 
 treachery of political demagogues. It is said that 
 Fremont was born in Savannah, the son of a French 
 fiddler. Brought to Charleston when a child, he was 
 reared in the Orphan House of that city; was subse- 
 quently taken out by ex-Governor Bennett, and edu- 
 cated finally at the Charleston College. Subsequently, 
 his promise was such, that Mr. Poinsett, then Secretary 
 of War of the United States, sent him to West Point. 
 Here you see a native born Southerner, the child of 
 charity, accorded by the best gentlemen of the South 
 the education and all the advantages which should 
 make a gentleman, treacherously turning upon his 
 
Wayside Travel. 69 
 
 benefactors and patrons, his native State, and becom- 
 ing the sectional candidate of an extreme ultra fanati- 
 cal party. From what I have seen, I should think the 
 philanthropists would find quite enough to do in min- 
 istering to the distress of the "Greeks" at their own 
 doors, without bothering their heads about the well- 
 fed and happy Southern negroes. I have seen more 
 poverty and suffering among the people living in filthy 
 cellars, not a hundred yards from Broadway, than I 
 have ever witnessed at the South; and the district 
 covered by the "Five Points," is a disgrace to the 
 great City of New York — but enough. 
 Yours, truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 New York, August 12, 1857. 
 
LETTER SECOND 
 
 Visit to Mount Wasliington. 
 
 After nearly three months' travel, we find ourselves 
 surrounded by the White Mountains of New Hamp- 
 shire. To-day a large party of us visited Mount 
 Washington, that contests with Black Mountain, N. 
 C, the honor of being the highest peak, east of the 
 Mississippi. The scenery from this mountain is cer- 
 tainly very grand and beautiful; but I think greatly 
 exaggerated. The ascent is difficult and dangerous, 
 and after you have reached the summit, you find your- 
 self in and above the clouds, and shut out from all 
 views below and around you. 
 
 When our party left the Glen House (eight miles 
 from the summit) it was pleasant and clear; but every 
 mile brought us nearer and nearer the frozen regions, 
 and after climbing six thousand feet, we found our- 
 selves in ice and sleet. Neither man nor beast can 
 stand the severity of the winter here. A large sum 
 has been offered to any one who would remain in the 
 "Tip Top" house during the winter months for the 
 purpose of "taking observations;" but no money-lov- 
 ing Yankee has been willing to contend for the prize. 
 As the thermometer is ten degrees below freezing 
 point in August, you must know mid-winter is con- 
 siderably cooler. 
 
Wayside Travel. J\ 
 
 I suffered more from cold to-day than at any time 
 last winter. The wind blew a gale all the time. The 
 "Tip Top" house is built of stone on the summit. 
 Many visitors spend the night there. About one 
 hundred and fifty of us got a respectable dinner. In 
 one end of the building they keep what the travellers 
 call "a New England clock." They charge you 
 twenty-five cents for the privilege of winding it up, 
 and give you a drink of whiskey or brandy in the 
 bargain. "Winding the clock" seemed a favorite 
 occupation of some of our party. 
 
 While we were ascending the mountain, we passed 
 quite a number walking, and one old grey-headed man 
 found the task too great for his strength, and gave out, 
 after performing two-thirds of the journey. Some 
 laughed at him, others pitied and passed on. Dr. L., 
 of South Carolina, dismounted, and placed the old man 
 on his horse, and "footed" it the rest of the way. 
 Would New Hampshire have done so much for South 
 Carolina? 
 
 After a descent of two miles, we get below the 
 clouds and hazy atmosphere, and then have a very 
 good view of the mountains and surrounding coun- 
 try; but I do not think the scenery is equal to Yonah 
 or the peaks of the Blue Ridge in Georgia. From 
 Yonah, you have in one direction an "ocean view," 
 that I did not find here, and from another point of 
 Yonah, you have a succession of mountains rising 
 gradually, until they seem to hide their heads in the 
 very skies. Here a few high mountains stand out in 
 such bold relief as to shut out all else beyond them. 
 
J 2 Wayside Travel. 
 
 I do not know but that we visited the White Moun- 
 tains under rather unfavorable circumstances, but I 
 have yet to see the first man who has had an unob- 
 structed view from them. 
 
 After a tour through most of the "free States," we 
 have come to the conclusion that a wonderful change 
 has come over the people on the subject of slavery. 
 We have been in crowded public houses, on railroads 
 and steamboats, in private families, and have not heard 
 one word spoken against the South or her institu- 
 tions. I begin to think the Union will stand as long 
 as the granite mountains of New Hampshire. The 
 free negroes found that they could make more by 
 playing "fugitive slaves," than working with their 
 hands, and the people are getting their eyes open to 
 this new species of humbuggery, and are heartily sick 
 of it. 
 
 The New England States are far from being pros- 
 perous at this time. The South and great West are 
 absorbing their capital and enterprising men. A large 
 amount of the money invested in railroads and manu- 
 factures will be a total loss. The men and women 
 have to work hard, live poor, and avoid debts, or they 
 find themselves ruined. The women of the North are 
 slaves to their families, and I think have a much 
 harder time than the men. We see at the North 
 much to admire and imitate, but I was never better 
 satisfied with the South than I am now. 
 
 August, 1857. G. W. W. 
 
LETTER THIRD. 
 
 Visit to Canada — Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 A traveller from the Southern States, I think, will 
 be as much interested with Quebec and its surround- 
 ings as any city he may visit — at least this has been 
 our experience. It is unlike any American town I 
 have ever seen, and may truly be called the "Gibraltar 
 of America." Quebec is indeed a well-fortified city, 
 being encircled by huge walls, varying from twenty to 
 three hundred feet in height, and the deadly cannon 
 faces you at nearly every entrance. The " red coats," 
 which are to be seen in all directions, remind one of 
 the American Revolution. 
 
 It was deeply interesting to us to stand on the 
 Plains of Abraham, and look upon the battle-ground 
 where the gallant young Wolfe, one hundred years 
 ago, led his army on to victory. Two brave spirits 
 met and fell on those plains, Montcalm and Wolfe, 
 the respective commanders of the French and Eng- 
 lish forces. General Montcalm received a mortal 
 wound ; and, when told by his surgeon that he could 
 live only a few hours, he called a council of war, and 
 said to his soldiers, " To your keeping I commend 
 the honor of France ; as for me, I must pass the night 
 with God, and prepare myself for death." Wolfe had 
 received two wounds ; and, while making the last 
 10 
 
74 Wayside Travel. 
 
 and successful charge upon the enemy, he received a 
 mortal wound in the breast. When he heard that the 
 French fled, he said, " Now, God be praised, I die 
 happy." Thus, at the early age of thirty-five, fell a 
 scholar and brave commander, in the hour of victory- 
 
 In the battle-field, on the spot where Wolfe fell, a 
 monument has been erected, containing the simple 
 inscription, " Here died Wolfe, Victorious." Near by 
 is the old well from which he quenched his thirst for 
 the last time. A bucket of cool water was drawn from 
 it for us, and our party drank to the memory of Wolfe. 
 
 You will not, perhaps, have forgotten the memorable 
 anecdote told of Wolfe, the night before the battle. 
 While crossing the river, with his aids around him, he 
 repeated the famous Elegy, by Gray, " written in a 
 country church-yard," saying, at the close, that he 
 would rather enjoy the fame of having written that 
 poem, than that of conquering Montcalm on the 
 morrow. 
 
 Montcalm was a man also of remarkable intellectual 
 and moral superiority. He was at once a warrior, a 
 statesman and a patriot. To convince you of this, I 
 subjoin his letter to M. de Mole, President of Paris, 
 almost the last letter from his pen, which will wonder- 
 fully illustrate his sagacity, prophetic foresight and 
 intrepid patriotism. The letter is little known in this 
 country, even among historical students : 
 
 Marquis De Montcalm to M. De Mole, 
 
 First President of the Parliament of Paris. 
 
 Dear Cousin : For more than three months Mr. 
 
 Wolfe has been hanging on my hands. He bom- 
 
Wayside Travel. J 5 
 
 bards Quebec night and day, with a fury of which 
 scarcely an example can be found in the siege of 
 a place, which the enemy wishes to take and pre- 
 serve. Their artillery has already destroyed almost 
 all the lower town, and a great part of the upper 
 has been demolished by their shells ; but, although 
 not one stone should be left upon another, they can 
 never carry their point while they are content to 
 attack us from the opposite shore, which we have 
 abandoned. 
 
 After three months they are no further advanced 
 with the siege than they were the first day. They 
 ruin us, but do not profit themselves. 
 
 The campaign cannot last above a month longer on 
 account of the approach of autumn, which is terrible 
 to a fleet in these seas, as the winds blow constantly, 
 periodically, and with great fury. It would seem, then, 
 after such a happy prelude, that the colony is not in 
 much danger. Nothing, however, is less certain. 
 
 The taking of Quebec depends on one masterly 
 stroke. The English are masters of the river ; they 
 have only to effect a landing on that part of it where 
 the city is unfortified and defenceless. They are in a 
 condition to give us battle, which I must not refuse, 
 and cannot hope to gain. General Wolfe, indeed, if 
 he understands his business, has only to receive our 
 first fire, and then advancing briskly on my army, and 
 giving one heavy and general discharge, my Cana- 
 dians, undisciplined, deaf to the sound of the drum 
 and other military instruments, and thrown into dis- 
 order by the slaughter, will no longer keep their ranks. 
 
7 6 Wayside Travel. 
 
 Besides, they have no bayonets to make good their 
 ground against those of the enemy. Nothing remains 
 for them but to run, and thus I shall be totally de- 
 feated. 
 
 Such is my situation, — a situation most grievous 
 to a general, and which, indeed, gives me many bitter 
 moments. The confidence I have in these views has 
 induced me always to act on the defensive, which has 
 hitherto succeeded ; but will it succeed in the end ? 
 
 The event must decide. But of one thing be cer- 
 tain, I shall not survive the loss of the colony. There 
 are situations in which it only remains to a general to 
 fall with honor. Such this appears to me ; and on 
 this point posterity shall not reproach my memory, 
 though fortune may decide on my opinions. These 
 are truly French, and shall be so even in the grave, — 
 if in the grave we are anything. I shall at least con- 
 sole myself on my defeat and the loss of the colony, 
 by the full persuasion that this defeat will one day 
 secure my country more than a victory, and that the 
 conqueror in aggrandizing himself will find his tomb 
 in the country he gains from us. 
 
 What I have here advanced, my dear cousin, will 
 appear to you paradoxical ; but a moment's political 
 reflection, a single glance upon the situation of affairs 
 in America, and the truth of my opinion must appear. 
 
 No, my dear cousin, men obey only force and 
 necessity ; they submit when armies sufficient to con- 
 trol them are before their eyes, or when the chain of 
 their destiny reminds them of the law. Beyond this 
 they yield to no yoke ; they act for themselves, be- 
 
Wayside Travel. yy 
 
 cause nothing external or internal compels them to 
 give up their liberty, which is the greatest ornament 
 and privilege of human nature. Scrutinize mankind, 
 and the English above all, who, whether from educa- 
 tion or sentiment, are on this point more men than 
 others. Constraint displeases them ; they must breathe 
 free and unconfined air, or they are out of their ele- 
 ment. But if this is the genius of the English of 
 Europe, it is still' more so with those of America. A 
 great part of these colonists are the children of those 
 men who emigrated from England when their rights 
 and privileges were attacked in that country, then torn 
 by dissensions. They went to America in search of 
 a land where they could die free and almost inde- 
 pendent, and their children have not degenerated from 
 the republican principles of their fathers. 
 
 Others there are, enemies to all restraint and sub- 
 mission, whom the government has transported thither 
 for their crimes. Lastly, there are others, a collec- 
 tion from the different nations of Europe, who, in 
 their hearts, care very little for England. All, in 
 general, have no great attachment to either king or 
 Parliament. 
 
 I know them well ; not from the report of strangers, 
 but from confidential information and secret corres- 
 pondence, which I myself managed, and which, if God 
 spare my life, I will one day turn to the advantage of 
 my country. To add to their happiness, the planters 
 have attained a very flourishing condition ; they are 
 numerous and rich ; they enjoy, in the bosom of their 
 country, all the necessaries of life. 
 
78 Wayside Travel. 
 
 England has been so weak and foolish as to suffer 
 them to establish arts, trade and manufactures, and 
 thereby enabled them to break the chain of necessity 
 that bound them to and made them dependent on her. 
 
 All the English colonies would long since have 
 shaken off the yoke, and each province formed itself 
 into a little independent republic, if the fear of seeing 
 the French at their door had not been a check upon 
 them. 
 
 Master for master, they prefer their own country- 
 men ; their favorite maxim, however, being to obey 
 as little as possible. But when Canada shall be con- 
 quered, and the Canadians and these colonies become 
 one people, on the first occasion, when England strikes 
 a blow at their interest, do you believe, my dear 
 cousin, that they will submit ? And what would they 
 have to fear from a revolt ? Could England send an 
 army of a hundred or two hundred thousand men to 
 oppose them at such a distance ? It is true, she pos- 
 sesses a fleet, and the towns of North America, few 
 in number, are all open, without citadels or fortifica- 
 tions, and a small naval force in their ports would 
 suffice to keep them in their duty. But the interior 
 of the country, an object of much greater importance, 
 who would attempt its conquest, over rocks, lakes, 
 rivers, woods and mountains, intersecting it in all direc- 
 tions, where a handful of men, acquainted with the 
 ground, would suffice to destroy the greatest armies ? 
 
 Besides, should the planters be able to bring the 
 savages into their interests, the English, with all their 
 fleets, might be masters of the sea, but I doubt 
 whether they could ever make good a landing. 
 
Wayside Travel. 79 
 
 Add to this, that in case of a general revolt, all the 
 powers of Europe, secret and jealous enemies of 
 England, would assist them, first privately, and then 
 openly, to throw off the yoke. 
 
 I must confess, however, that England, with a little 
 policy, might always keep a resource to assist in bring- 
 ing her colonies to reason. Canada, considered in 
 itself, its riches, forces and population, is nothing 
 compared to the English colonies. But the valor, 
 industry and fidelity of its inhabitants, so well supply 
 the place of numbers, that, for more than an age, they 
 have fought with advantage against the colonies. 
 Ten Canadians are a match for a hundred English 
 colonists. 
 
 Daily experience shows this to be a fact. If Eng- 
 land, after conquering Canada, knew how to attach 
 it to her by policy and kindness, and to reserve it to 
 herself alone — if she left the inhabitants their religion, 
 laws and language, their customs and ancient form of 
 government — Canada, separated in every respect from 
 the other colonies, would never enter into their views 
 or interests, were it from the difference of religion 
 alone. 
 
 But this is not the policy of Britain. If the Eng- 
 lish make a conquest, they are sure to change the 
 constitution of the country, and introduce their own 
 laws, customs and religion, which they impose, at 
 least, under the pain of disqualification for office. A 
 persecution more intolerable than torments, because 
 it attacks men's pride and ambition, while tortures 
 affect only life, which these passions often make us 
 
8o Wayside Travel. 
 
 .despise. In a word, are you conquered by English- 
 men ? you must become Englishmen ! But ought 
 not the English to remember that the heads of men 
 are not all alike, much less their minds? Ought they 
 not to perceive that laws should be suitable to 
 climates, and the manners of the people, and prudently 
 varied according to circumstances ? 
 
 Each country has its own trees, fruits and riches. 
 To transport the fruits of England thither would be 
 an unpardonable folly. It is the same with their laws, 
 which ought to be adapted to the climate, on which 
 men themselves so much depend. This is a policy 
 which the English do not understand ; or rather they 
 understand it well, (for they have the reputation of a 
 thinking people,) but they cannot adopt it from the 
 defects of their own constitution. 
 
 Upon this account, Canada, once taken by the Eng- 
 lish, would, in a few years, suffer much from being 
 forced to become English. Thus would the Canadians 
 be transformed into politicians, merchants, and men 
 infatuated with a pretended liberty, which among the 
 populace of England often sinks into licentiousness 
 and anarchy. Farewell, then, to their valor, simplicity, 
 generosity, respect for authority ; farewell to their 
 frugality, obedience, fidelity ; they would soon be of 
 no use to England, perhaps even oppose her. 
 
 I am so clear in what I assert, that I would not 
 give more than ten years after the conquest of Canada 
 to see it accomplished. 
 
 See, then, what now consoles me as a Frenchman, 
 for the imminent danger my country runs of losing 
 
Wayside Travel. 81 
 
 this colony ; but, as a general, I will do my best to 
 preserve it. The king, my master, orders me to do 
 so ; that is sufficient. 
 
 You know we are of that blood which was always 
 faithful to our kings, and it is not for me to degenerate 
 from the virtues of my ancestors. I send you these 
 reflections, that, jf the fate of arms in Europe should 
 ever oblige us to bend and receive the law, you may 
 make such use of them as your love of country may 
 direct. 
 
 I have the honor to be, my dear cousin, 
 
 Your most humble servant, 
 
 MONTCALM. 
 
 Camp before Quebec, August 24, 1759. 
 
 No one from the " States " will visit Quebec with- 
 out looking with more than ordinary interest upon 
 that steep and rugged hill where the lamented Mont- 
 gomery fell, sword in hand, in 1775. It was in the 
 same memorable battle that Arnold was shot in the 
 knee ; — far better would it have been for him and his 
 country if the ball had entered his heart ! Arnold 
 was a brave, bold, but calculating, selfish man, who 
 for money was willing to barter away his country. 
 Let his fate be remembered by all who would sacri- 
 fice principle for " filthy lucre." 
 
 Quebec naturally presents more the appearance of 
 a French than of an American city. The same old 
 walls and low, one-story stone houses, with their 
 sharp roofs, that were standing when Wolfe and 
 Montgomery fell, are here yet ; and the old " ca- 
 lashes," such as were brought over by the Pilgrim 
 11 
 
82 Wayside Travel. 
 
 Fathers, are still in use. I went out to hire a carriage, 
 and, to my surprise, scarcely any of the drivers could 
 speak English. I succeeded finally in finding one, 
 who said, " May it plaze yer 'onor, I spakes nootheng 
 boot Hanglish." I made a bargain with him, and got 
 more " Hanglish " than I contracted for. 
 
 After procuring a permit, we started in search of 
 the various points of attraction. From the citadel we 
 had a splendid view of Quebec, Point Levi, Orleans 
 and the surrounding country. This fortification covers 
 forty acres of ground, is protected by immense walls, 
 and is entered through five gates from different points. 
 These gates are made of large iron chains. I did not 
 find as much difficulty in getting admission into this 
 fortification as into Moro Castle. The old French 
 Cathedral, with its statuary and paintings, is worthy 
 of a visit. I have observed that a large proportion 
 of the Roman Catholic paintings have reference to 
 Christ and his crucifixion. The Wesleyans have some 
 handsome churches here also. We drove eight miles 
 through a Canadian-French village to the Falls of 
 Montmorenci. The fall is said to be two hundred feet 
 higher than that of Niagara. It is certainly very 
 beautiful ; a suspension bridge which was built over 
 it, fell last year, carrying with it several persons, who 
 were dashed to pieces on the rocks below. The road 
 for eight miles on either side is lined with small 
 French stone houses. These people seem to pre- 
 serve their national characteristics. They are much 
 more cleanly and industrious than I expected to see 
 them. The women work on the small farms, with 
 
Wayside Travel. 83 
 
 their heads covered by broad-brimmed hats. From 
 the proceeds of these farms many of them grow rich. 
 They are mostly Roman Catholics, and are a careful, 
 economical people. 
 
 The St. Lawrence is a noble stream. The largest 
 ships come to the City of Quebec without difficulty, 
 and vessels of six hundred tons go to Montreal, one 
 hundred and eighty miles above. This magnificent 
 river drains the vast lakes and inland seas. Quebec 
 is now connected with Portland, Maine, and Detroit, 
 in the West, by the " Grand Trunk Railroad." The 
 Canada railroads are the broadest I have ever seen, 
 and they move on them with a rapidity that I admire. 
 From here we go to Montreal, and thence to Toronto, 
 in Canada West, now the capital. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Quebec, August 27, 1857. 
 
LETTER FOURTH 
 
 A Trip from Quebec to Niagara Falls. 
 
 Bidding adieu to the antique and picturesque City 
 of Quebec, we went on board the fine steamer Napo- 
 leon, which was to sail at 4 o'clock, P. M., for Mon- 
 treal. The St. Lawrence is a magnificent river, and 
 boasts of some of the best steamers on the American 
 waters, but recently they have met with frightful acci- 
 dents and great loss of life. I was surprised to see 
 so much shipping in this out-of-the-way city. The 
 river was filled with sail vessels and steamers from the 
 Atlantic, floating palaces and propellers for the river 
 and lake navigation of the far West. 
 
 The lumber trade is carried on extensively here. 
 For many miles above Quebec the shore is covered 
 by rafts of timber ready for shipment. An hour's 
 sail brought us to the wreck of the ill-fated steamer 
 Montreal, which was recently burnt, and some two 
 hundred and fifty persons perished. The captain, 
 mate and owners are all in prison, and will doubtless 
 be hung ; but that will not restore to the distressed 
 families their lost friends. It is said the captain had 
 been " winding the clock " too often, and was not 
 in a condition, when the ship was found to be on 
 fire, to give the necessary orders. They were within 
 fifty yards of the shore, and if they had steered for 
 
Wayside Travel. 85 
 
 land, every soul might have been saved. The cap- 
 tain of our boat saw the flames and went at once to 
 their relief, and succeeded in saving one hundred and 
 twenty-five passengers from the burning steamer. We 
 have a "clock" on board the Napoleon, and our cap- 
 tain's nose looks rather red, but that is not always a 
 sure sign that a man drinks. I certainly should feel 
 more secure if there was no liquor on board; but you 
 find the destructive "fire water" in all the hotels and 
 steamboats: even down in the good old temperance 
 State of Maine, I saw more barrels branded "Pure 
 New England Rum" than I thought the health of 
 the people required. You know they are allowed 
 to take it medicinally. Spirituous liquors are the 
 curse of our country, North and South, spite of their 
 medical properties. 
 
 Well, we are at Montreal. How very different from 
 Quebec. The Anglo-Saxon energy and activity is per- 
 ceptible here in every thing. This is the largest city 
 in British America, and presents a fine appearance as 
 you approach it from the river. The wharves are 
 built of rock, and are the most substantial I ever saw. 
 The situation of Montreal, at the head of ship naviga- 
 tion, gives her fine advantages for trade and commerce. 
 The Grand Trunk Road runs daily to Portland, Me., 
 and this company have a line of steamers running to 
 Boston and New York, and various ports in Europe. 
 The city is also connected with the West by railroads 
 and lake steamers. The surrounding country is very 
 rich and productive, and I see no reason why Montreal 
 should not be one of the great cities of America. 
 
86 Wayside Travel. 
 
 The Victoria Bridge, over the St. Lawrence, is two 
 miles long and is a gigantic work. It will cost, when 
 completed, some ten millions of dollars. It is built on 
 the tubular principle, having a railroad track through 
 the centre. On the outside of the tube there will be 
 a way for foot passengers. 
 
 The French Cathedral here is an immense building, 
 constructed in the Gothic style. It has six towers. 
 The views from them are very beautiful. The church 
 can accommodate twelve thousand persons. 
 
 We visited the Grey Nunnery, and were shown into 
 the hospital, containing some two hundred persons, 
 sick with all imaginable diseases. We did not remain 
 long in that loathsome place, as an acquaintance of 
 ours, a few years since, visited this same establish- 
 ment, and contracted the small pox. I am surprised 
 at their admitting strangers into such a place ; but it 
 is quite as surprising that strangers should desire ad- 
 mittance. The foundling department of the nunnery 
 is interesting. The "Sisters" seem to be very suc- 
 cessful in finding children, for they have some three 
 hundred little ones under their care. 
 
 It was a beautiful morning in September, when we 
 tool- the train from Montreal for the Falls of Niagara. 
 The foliage on the route was in the full flush of au- 
 tumnal glory, which makes September so lovely in 
 Canada. The maple, oaks, alanthis, and the elm, 
 were in their splendor. Many of the leaves of the 
 forest trees are turned to blood-red color by the first 
 touch of autumnal frosts. Twelve hours swift railway 
 travel through a fine country, and we are safely landed 
 
Wayside Travel. 87 
 
 at Toronto. This is the largest city in Canada West, 
 and is now the seat of government. Toronto is five 
 hundred miles from Quebec, situated on Lake Ontario. 
 We find the country here as flat as the piny-woods of 
 the Carolinas. About Coburg they have the best farm- 
 ing country I have seen in Canada. The railroad runs 
 for several hundred miles along the shore of Lake On- 
 tario. There is not as much shipping on the lake as 
 I expected to see. Toronto is a flourishing city, with 
 forty-five thousand inhabitants. Fifty years ago its 
 population consisted of two Indian families. We saw 
 here what I never expected to witness on the Ameri- 
 can continent — a white lady (?) married to a flat nose, 
 unadulterated, black negro. The woman was about 
 twenty-five years old, and rather good looking ; the 
 man forty, and as ugly a darkey as you ever saw. An 
 Anglo-African, six months old, was the result of the 
 happy union. I asked her why she married a negro. 
 The reply was, that she was not the first white woman 
 in Canada who had married a colored man — that it 
 was a common occurrence. Upon further inquiry, I 
 learned that intermarriage between the whites and 
 blacks seldom occurred. The Canadians are getting 
 heartily sick of the hordes of "fugitive slaves," whom 
 the abolitionists from the United States have run over 
 there; and the government is taking active measures 
 to get rid of their negro population. How to dispose 
 of them is a grave question. The non-slaveholding 
 States have shut their doors against them. The truth 
 is, the African, like cotton, rice and sugar, will not 
 flourish north of Mason and Dixon's line. The ne- 
 
88 Wayside Travel. 
 
 groes look like a poor, cast-off, forsaken race ; and 
 the severe winters are sending many of them to an 
 underground road, where they will remain until the 
 last day. When I saw so many wretched negroes 
 without homes, and excluded from their churches, 
 railroads and omnibuses, I thought of our Methodist 
 Churches in Charleston, with their six thousand happy 
 colored members, and of our noble missionaries who 
 jeopard their lives in travelling through the rice 
 swamps, exposing themselves to the deadly miasma, 
 to preach Christ and Him crucified to the slave. How 
 different from the abolitionists, who do all in their 
 power to seduce the slaves from their comfortable 
 homes, and then abandon them to want and misery. 
 This is abolition consistency! "Bleeding Kansas" 
 has been a rich theme for these underground thieves, 
 and scores of honest-hearted men and women have 
 been "bled" to feather the pockets of these swindling 
 imposters. 
 
 In a few hours we leave for Hamilton — and here we 
 are at Niagara. What a fall, my countrymen ! 
 Truly yours, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Niagara Falls, September, 1857. 
 
LETTER FIFTH 
 
 Falls of Niagara — The Lakes — The Rapids — Table 
 Rock — Suspension Bridge — Prospect Tower — Steamer 
 Detroit — BcJdnd the Horseshoe — Brainard's Poem. 
 
 Gentle reader, have you ever visited the Falls of 
 Niagara ? If so, then I shall offer no apology for not 
 attempting to describe the greatest natural wonder of 
 the Western World. 
 
 This most stupendous cataract, with its ceaseless 
 roar, perfectly overpowers all my senses. I stand 
 awe-struck when I gaze upon the raging, thundering 
 waters, as they come dashing and tumbling down into 
 the yawning abyss. Man, as he looks upon this 
 awfully grand sight, realizes his littleness. In this 
 creation's wonder, he is compelled to feel and 
 acknowledge the hand of a Master Architect, and 
 that "God is great!" We stood with mingled awe 
 and admiration as we gazed on this world's wonder. 
 
 It was after sunset when we arrived at Niagara, but 
 it was full moon, and I shall never forget my feel- 
 ings as our party stood almost speechless, beholding 
 by moonlight this sublime picture. The waters fran- 
 tically rushed over the precipice, falling nearly two 
 hundred feet in perpendicular height. This was our 
 first sight of the lunar bow. 
 
 These waters overflow from the immense lakes of 
 Superior, Michigan, Huron and Erie, discharging 
 themselves through the Niagara into Lake Ontario. 
 12 
 
go Wayside Travel. 
 
 For nearly a mile the river races over an incline 
 of sixty feet descent. Above the rapids the river is 
 as tranquil and smooth as a lake. 
 
 Goat Island, which is a quarter of a mile wide and 
 half a mile long, is a charming spot, covered with a 
 forest of trees, shrubs and flowers, and lovely enough, 
 I think, to have a prettier name. It extends to the 
 brink of the precipice, and divides the falls into two 
 portions. The highest fall is on the American side, 
 but the great body of water is on the Canadian. 
 
 Table Rock is quite a resort for visitors. Our party 
 sat for nearly an hour near the great cataract, and 
 watched the moon's calm, cold beams falling upon 
 the maelstrom of ever-running waters over the steep 
 precipice. 
 
 We also stood on the frail bridge leading to -Goat 
 Island. Here you have a fine view of the Rapids. 
 We looked at the rushing water, as it came for nearly 
 half a mile over the rocks with the impetuosity of a 
 hurricane, leaping faster, swifter and more turbulent 
 before taking its last long leap into the eternal sea. 
 These are scarcely less interesting than the Falls 
 themselves. 
 
 Below the cataract, the river runs between cliffs 
 several hundred feet high, and with great force. No 
 one knows how much of this chasm has been made 
 by the fretful waters. The river is spanned by a sus- 
 pension bridge, eight hundred feet in length and two 
 hundred and thirty feet above the water. Here John 
 and Jonathan shake hands. Immense trains pass over 
 this bridge daily. It makes one shudder to be drawn 
 
Wayside Travel. 9 1 
 
 by the iron horse, with his ponderous train, over this 
 apparently slender structure ; should the wire-cable 
 break, it would prove a terrible leap into the deep 
 green waters below. The cable, however, is composed 
 of several wires, and is of immense strength. 
 
 Prospect Tower is built on Goat Island ; it is fifty 
 feet high. From the tower you have a magnificent 
 view of the whole scene of Niagara above and below 
 the falls. The depth of water that flows over them 
 of course can never be known ; but the steamer 
 Detroit, drawing eighteen feet, was carried over the 
 falls as light as a duck. It is said she never touched 
 the rocks with her keel until she was forced one 
 hundred and sixty feet below. 
 
 After diving into a deep chasm, scooped out by 
 the constant action of the water, she arose a chaotic 
 mass of beams, spars and broken floating timber. A 
 small steamboat, appropriately called " Maid of the 
 Mist," runs up into the very spray of the cataract. 
 From its deck a view is presented to be found no 
 where else. 
 
 None of our party penetrated behind the Horseshoe 
 Fall ; I did not care to have a foretaste of a watery 
 grave. It is said to be both uncomfortable and dan- 
 gerous. 
 
 " It may be supposed," says a writer, who had 
 explored the cavern, " that every person who has 
 been dragged through the column of water which 
 obstructs the entrance to the cavern behind the 
 cataract, has a pretty correct idea of the pains of 
 drowning. It is difficult enough to breathe, but, with 
 
92 Wayside Travel. 
 
 a little self-control and management, the nostrils may- 
 be guarded from the watery particles in the atmos- 
 phere, and then an impression is made upon the mind 
 by the extraordinary pavilion above and around, 
 which never loses its vividness. The natural bend 
 of the cataract, and the backward shelve of the preci- 
 pice, form an immense area, like the interior of a tent, 
 but so pervaded by discharges of mist and spray that 
 it is impossible to see far inward. Outward, the light 
 struggles brokenly through the crystal wall of the 
 cataract, and when the sun shines directly on its face, 
 it is a scene of unimaginable glory. The footing is 
 rather unsteadfast ; a small shelf composed of loose 
 and slippery stones, and the abyss boiling below 
 like — it is difficult to find a comparison. On the 
 whole, the undertaking is rather pleasanter to remem- 
 ber than to achieve." 
 
 We have spent several days at Niagara. In our 
 rambles of many thousand miles we have found no 
 place of such thrilling interest, and have fully realized 
 the fact that it is a charming spot to visit. 
 
 The Falls of Niagara are indeed grand ; yea, beauti- 
 fully grand ! As you stand spell-bound, looking on 
 this sublime scene, the waters thunder in your ears 
 " Eternity ! Eternity !" and on the swift wings of Time 
 you feel that you are irresistibly drifting into this 
 eternity. The sensation produced is one of joy and 
 sadness. 
 
 I have never had hysterics, but imagine the feelings 
 you undergo are not unlike one under the influence 
 of hysteria. 
 
Wayside Travel. 93 
 
 Their ceaseless thunders ring in your ears, even 
 when miles away. 
 
 We visited the Whirlpool, and were quite pleased, 
 as it quieted our nerves after the scenes we had just 
 passed through. 
 
 The Falls of Niagara have been the frequent theme 
 of poetry. 
 
 The following lines, by Brainard, have been much 
 admired : 
 
 " The thoughts are strange that crowd into my brain, 
 While I look upward to thee. It would seem 
 As if God poured thee from His 'hollow hand,' 
 And hung his bow upon thine awful front; 
 And spoke in that loud voice, which seemed to him 
 Who dwelt in Patmos for his Saviour's sake, 
 'The sound of many waters;' and had bade 
 Thy flood to chronicle the ages back, 
 And notch His centuries in the eternal rocks ! 
 
 "Deep calleth unto deep, and what are we, 
 That hear the question of that voice sublime ? 
 O ! what are all the notes that ever rung 
 From War's vain trumpet, by thy thundering side? 
 Yea, what is all the riot man can make, 
 In his short life, to thy unceasing roar! 
 And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him, 
 Who drowned a world, and heaped the waters far 
 Above its loftiest mountains ? — a light wave, 
 That breaks, and whispers of its Maker's might!" 
 
 We are receiving terrible accounts here of the 
 Great Cataract in Wall street. Little else is talked 
 of but the failures in New York and in the West 
 The panic produced by these is said to be frightful. 
 Few persons are prepared for this state of things, as 
 it is like a thunder-clap on a clear day. 
 
94 Wayside Travel. 
 
 I cans, hardly realize that the reports we get from 
 the "States" are true, as, only six weeks since, when 
 I was in New York, money was abundant at less than 
 legal interest, and the most sagacious Wall street 
 bankers saw no indications of a commercial storm. 
 The failure of the Ohio Life and Trust Company was 
 a terrible shock to the public mind. 
 
 The avalanche of discredit, caused by this failure-, 
 is sweeping down merchants and bankers. 
 
 These troubles make it necessary that I should 
 return to the South sooner than I anticipated, to look 
 after my own commercial ship. We leave to-morrow 
 for Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Yours, truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Niagara Falls, September, 1857. 
 
LETTER SIXTH 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio, Sept 8th, 1857. 
 
 A short run from Niagara, by rail, brought us safely 
 to Buffalo. This city is situated on the eastern 
 extremity of Lake Erie, only a few miles from the 
 head of Niagara River. 
 
 Buffalo has a fine trade, and its position is such as 
 to render it the entrepot through which much of the 
 commerce and travel between the West and East must 
 pass. 
 
 The completion, in 1824, of the great Erie Canal, 
 three hundred and sixty-four miles long, gave the city 
 its first commercial impulse. Since then immense lines 
 of railways have been constructed, opening communi- 
 cation with the cities on the Atlantic coast, in Canada, 
 and in the fertile valleys and growing cities of the West. 
 
 Buffalo boasts of a dozen banks, fifty insurance 
 companies, and eighteen newspapers. Population, 
 seventy-five thousand. 
 
 Cleveland, Ohio, Sept. 5th. — After spending nearly 
 a day in Buffalo, we left on the night boat for Cleve- 
 land. 
 
 A few hours pleasant sail, and here we are safely 
 landed, amid the yells of a hungry crowd of hackmen. 
 
 This town is on the southern shore of Lake Erie, 
 and is the port of entry of Ohio. 
 
g6 Wayside Travel. 
 
 Next to Cincinnati, it is the largest town in the 
 State. In addition to its lake and railroad facilities, 
 it is connected with the Ohio River by a canal. The 
 city is finely situated on a hill, one hundred feet 
 above the lake. It has eight banks, and more news- 
 papers than pay the publishers. Population about 
 fifty thousand. 
 
 Columbus, Sept. 6th. — One hundred and thirty miles 
 by swift rail, through a fine agricultural country, and 
 we find ourselves at Columbus, which is distinguished 
 mainly for its broad streets and magnificent new State 
 House. 
 
 It surpasses any building of the kind we have yet 
 seen. It is three hundred feet long and two hundred 
 wide, and covers an area of fifty-six thousand square 
 feet. The height to the top of the rotunda is one 
 hundred and sixty feet; the material of which it is 
 built is white limestone, but resembles marble. The 
 penitentiary is a fine structure, built of Ohio marble. 
 
 It comprises a square of six acres; some seven 
 hundred persons are confined within its walls. It will 
 be seen that this is a favorite institution, so much so 
 that the population is constantly on the increase. They 
 are, however, employed in useful manufactures, and 
 make more than enough from their labor to pay 
 expenses. 
 
 It might be well for South Carolina to appropriate 
 some of the money she is investing in her marble 
 State palace, and build a substantial penitentiary. It 
 will be needed. Columbus has a population of about 
 thirty thousand. 
 
Wayside Travel. 97 
 
 We spent part of a day and night pleasantly in that 
 town, and left early this morning for Cincinnati. 
 
 One hundred and twenty miles through the finest 
 and richest country we have yet seen, and we find 
 ourselves in the greatest of the Western cities. We 
 reach Cincinnati at an unfavorable time. The failure 
 of the Ohio Life and Trust Company has cast a gloom 
 over the whole community, as the citizens are all 
 more or less interested in this institution, the credit of 
 which stood, a few months ago, beyond suspicion. 
 
 This great failure has thrown distrust and discredit 
 on nearly every species of credit. A commercial 
 panic, which had its beginning here, is spreading over 
 the whole country; men who considered themselves 
 rich a few months ago, are now bankrupts; a heavy 
 gloom, like a nightmare, oppresses merchants, bank- 
 ers, mechanics and farmers. 
 
 When these troubles are to end, no one can tell. 
 Will our people be the wiser for these sad lessons? 
 We shall see. Overtrade, extravagance, speculation, 
 and too free use of credit, cause these troubles. 
 
 Cincinnati, the metropolis of Ohio, is on the right 
 bank of the Ohio River. It is the most populous city 
 in the Western States, and is fifth in size and import- 
 ance among the cities of the Union; it is remarkable 
 for its extensive trade, enterprising merchants, rapid 
 growth, and productive industry. Cincinnati is beau- 
 tifully situated in a valley, and is justly entitled to be 
 called the " Queen City of the West." It is surrounded 
 by a range of hills four hundred feet above the river ; 
 from these you have a splendid view of the city, and 
 13 
 
98 Wayside Travel. 
 
 the "vine-clad hills." It boasts of her Broadway, 
 Pearl and Main streets. Here you find spacious 
 stores, warehouses and dwellings, built substantially 
 of brick and stone. This city is distinguished for its 
 literary and benevolent institutions. 
 
 It ought to be pious, as it has over one hiindred 
 churches, besides several synagogues. 
 
 It abounds in good hotels ; the Burnett House, at 
 which we are stopping, would do credit to New York. 
 It has three hundred and fifty apartments, and is sur- 
 mounted by a dome which is one hundred feet above 
 the basement. The Burnett House cost over eight 
 hundred thousand dollars. 
 
 The observatory is a fine stone edifice; it is situated 
 on Mount Adams, which is five hundred feet above 
 the river; commands a wide and varied prospect of 
 the city and surrounding country. 
 
 This is the city Madame Trollope described in her 
 "Manners of the Americans" as being distinguished 
 for its "hogs and hominy." I do not think she over- 
 rated the importance to Cincinnati of the hog product, 
 as a large portion of her wealth is derived from the 
 pigs raised in the rich agricultural districts of the 
 State. It is said nearly a million are slaughtered here 
 annually. The hogs in Cincinnati, like the buzzards 
 in Charleston, act the part of street scavengers. 
 
 The Charleston scavenger, however, does not fill 
 the streets and houses with fleas, and do not prowl 
 about the streets so promiscuously as the hogs do 
 here; but the hog is a very useful if not an ornamen- 
 tal animal — nowhere have we found better hams than 
 
Wayside Travel. 99 
 
 at the Burnett House. The feet and entrails of the 
 swine are no longer cast into the Ohio as rubbish, to 
 be washed into the Mississippi, but the pork packers 
 have learned to save every particle of the animal. 
 The entrails are boiled into lard, the feet are prepared 
 as an article of food, and the blood is used for "pud- 
 dings" and for chemical purposes. 
 
 Our party had a pleasant visit to Mr. Longworth's 
 vineyards. These are situated on the hillsides which 
 overlook the windings of the Ohio River. 
 
 Mr. Longworth has in his employ Germans who 
 are skilled in the cultivation of the grape and manu- 
 facture of wine — his dry Catawba and sparkling Ca- 
 tawba are considered his best wines. 
 
 The increase of the cultivation of the vine in Ohio 
 has introduced to this State many hardy, useful and 
 economical Germans, who make good citizens. 
 
 The annual products of the vine, in the neighbor- 
 hood of this city, is estimated at about three hundred 
 thousand gallons. This branch of business is rapidly 
 on the increase. 
 
 Cincinnati carries on an extensive trade by her 
 rivers, canals and railways. She connects with the 
 great lakes by the Miami Canal, with the Gulf of 
 Mexico through the Ohio River, and the Atlantic 
 cities by her various lines of railways. 
 
 I was surprised to find the manufacturing interests 
 of this city of such magnitude. 
 
 The value of manufactured articles, the past year, is 
 said to swell up to the enormous magnitude of eighty 
 millions of dollars! 
 
ioo Wayside Travel. 
 
 Cincinnati has two hundred thousand inhabitants, 
 and is rapidly increasing both in wealth and popula- 
 tion; at present, however, trade is prostrate, and a 
 gloom hangs over the people. 
 
 We leave here to-morrow for Louisville, Kentucky, 
 to attend the great State Agricultural Fair. 
 Ever yours, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 LETTER SEVENTH 
 
 Louisville State Fair — Mammoth Cave — Nashville — 
 Chattanooga — Madison — Red Old Hills of Geor- 
 gia — Home. 
 
 Louisville, Kentucky, Sept. ioth, 1857. 
 
 A pleasant run of one hundred and thirty miles 
 down the Ohio, in a fine steamer, and we are safely 
 landed at Louisville. 
 
 A large and profitable trade is carried on here. 
 The commerce of Louisville is said to amount to one 
 hundred millions of dollars ! 
 
 The exports comprise tobacco, hemp, grain, pork 
 and various articles of manufacture. Bagging, rope 
 and twine are manufactured largely in this State, and 
 sent here for sale. 
 
 Louisville, as well as Cincinnati, owes its pros- 
 perity mainly to Madame Trollope's favorite animal, 
 the Kentucky hog! and Kentucky is as famous for its 
 
Wayside Travel. ioi 
 
 splendid corn and wheat fields as for its pigs and pork. 
 The hotels are full to overflowing in consequence of 
 the State Agricultural Fair, which is being held here. 
 
 Our friend, Colonel R., took us to-day to the 
 fair grounds, and such an exhibition of horses and 
 cattle my eyes never feasted on before. A fair like 
 this is worth a trip across the Rocky' Mountains 
 to see. 
 
 I must not forget to mention, last though not least, 
 the splendid-looking men and women of Kentucky. 
 I believe no other State in the Union can produce 
 such a type of the descendants of Adam and Eve. 
 
 To call them splendid is too feeble an expression ; 
 physically, the men and women are unsurpassed. 
 
 We leave this pleasant city in the morning to visit 
 the Mammoth Cave. 
 
 Mammoth Cave, Sept. nth. — Well, here we are at 
 this great underground wonder of the Western World. 
 Kentucky is slow in developing her system of rail- 
 ways. Only thirty miles of the Louisville and Nash- 
 ville Railroad is completed. 
 
 At New Haven we had to take a stage-coach for 
 this place. You can imagine the discomfort when 
 twelve passengers were packed into seats for nine. 
 The gentlemen readily yielded the most comfortable 
 seats to the ladies, but this arrangement did not suit 
 a fair daughter from Down East. She wanted her 
 sweetheart by her side, and insisted on his occupying 
 a place that was filled by my sweetheart. 
 
 I took my chance among the trunks and hat-boxes 
 on the top of the coach, and requested Mrs. W. not 
 
102 Wayside Travel. 
 
 to change her comparatively comfortable quarters. 
 Finding that we were decided in maintaining our 
 rights, Boston offered no further opposition. 
 
 Mammoth Cave is indeed a mysterious freak of 
 nature, but should by all means be visited before you 
 have looked upon the grandeur of Niagara. 
 
 We wandered for many miles in those dark and 
 dismal caverns, passing in our rambles many frightful 
 pits. The myriads of stalactites and petrifications 
 hang on the walls of these subterranean chambers, 
 glistening like icicles. A river, navigable for small 
 boats, winds its way in these recesses. Only two 
 kinds of fish have been found in this stream ; one of 
 these is eyeless ; the other has eyes, but cannot see. 
 This cavern is a favorite resort for bats, owls and the 
 like. 
 
 This is said to be the largest cave in the world. 
 But I do not like these underground marvels of nature. 
 
 Nashville, Sept. 14th. — After a most uncomfort- 
 able ride by stage-coach from Mammoth Cave, we 
 gratefully find ourselves here alive — and but alive ! 
 In Nashville we stop a day to rest, and will avail our- 
 selves in seeing what we can see. 
 
 We take a hasty glance at the book establishment 
 of the Methodist Episcopal Church South. In this 
 mammoth concern we find our old Charleston friend, 
 Dr. S., looking just as quisical and honest as if he 
 had lived in the Queen City all his life. Not far from 
 our hotel, on an elevated situation, is one of the finest 
 State Houses in America, constructed of pure Ten- 
 nessee limestone marble. A view from the tower of 
 
Wayside Travel. 103 
 
 this magnificent building is worth a hundred mam- 
 moth caves. Nashville has a fine trade, and is in- 
 creasing in wealth and population. 
 
 The widow of ex-President Polk resides here, and 
 twelve miles from the city is the Hermitage, the cele- 
 brated residence of the late Andrew Jackson. 
 
 Chattanooga, Tenn., Sept. 16th. — One hundred and 
 fifty miles over the Nashville and Chattanooga Rail- 
 road, through the mountain gorges of the Blue Ridge, 
 and we find ourselves at Chattanooga. This road 
 passes through many lovely valleys, and some of the 
 finest scenery in America. The construction of a 
 railway through such a mountainous country was a 
 gigantic undertaking. The City by the Sea contri- 
 buted largely of her means to this enterprise. Chat- 
 tanooga is situated on the Tennessee River, under the 
 shade of majestic Lookout Mountain. The town is 
 badly located, and is subject to overflow when there 
 is a flood in the Tennessee. It bids fair, however, of 
 becoming one of the largest manufacturing towns in 
 the State. We leave here to-morrow for Charleston. 
 
 Madison, Ga., Sept. 18th. — We stop here a day to 
 rest and see the loved ones of dear " Forest Home." 
 Madison is the old home of Mrs. W., and, of course, is 
 doubly dear to her. It is one of the prettiest towns in 
 Middle Georgia, and has long been distinguished for 
 its excellent schools and good society. Many wealthy 
 planters have settled here for educational advantages. 
 It is surrounded by a beautiful and fertile country. 
 Some twenty-five thousand bales of cotton, raised in 
 the vicinity, are shipped to Augusta and Charleston. 
 
104 Wayside Travel. 
 
 Yesterday we passed through the rich agricultural 
 district of Cherokee, which is the grainery of Georgia, 
 and to-day through 
 
 "The red old hills of Georgia! 
 
 So bald, and bare, and bleak — 
 Their memory fills my spirit 
 
 With thoughts I cannot speak. 
 They have no robe of verdure, 
 
 Stript naked to the blast; 
 And yet of all the varied earth, 
 
 I love them best at last. 
 
 "I love them for the pleasure 
 
 With which my life was blest, 
 When erst I left, in boyhood, 
 
 My footsteps on their breast. 
 When in the rains had perished 
 
 Those steps from plain and knoll, 
 Then vanished, with the storm of grief, 
 
 Joy's footprints from my soul ! 
 
 " The red old hills of Georgia ! 
 
 My heart is on them now; 
 Where, fed from golden streamlets, 
 
 Chattahoochie's waters flow ! 
 I love them with devotion, 
 
 Though washed so bleak and bare; — 
 Oh ! can my spirit e'er forget 
 
 The warm hearts dwelling there ? 
 
 "I love them for the living, 
 
 The generous, kind and gay; 
 And for the dead who slumber 
 
 Within their breasts of clay. 
 I love them for the bounty 
 
 Which cheers the social hearth; 
 I love them for their rosy girls — 
 
 The fairest on the earth ! 
 
Wayside Travel. 105 
 
 " The red old hills of Georgia ! 
 
 Oh ! where, upon the face 
 Of earth, is freedom's spirit 
 
 More bright in any race ? 
 In Switzerland and Scotland 
 
 Each patriot breast it fills, 
 But, oh ! it blazes brighter yet 
 
 Among our Georgia hills! 
 
 "And where, upon their surface, 
 
 Is heart to feeling dead ? 
 Oh ! when has needy stranger 
 
 Gone from those hills unfed ? 
 There bravery and kindness, 
 
 For aye, go hand in hand, 
 Upon your washed and naked hills, 
 
 'My own, my native land!' 
 
 "The red old hills of Georgia 
 
 I never can forget; 
 Amid life's joys and sorrows, 
 
 My heart is on them yet; — 
 And when my course is ended, 
 
 When life her web has wove, 
 Oh ! may I then, beneath those hills, 
 
 Lie close to them I love ! " 
 
 Now we are nearing Charleston, passing through 
 luxuriant gardens and groves of grand old moss-clad 
 oaks, brilliant magnolias and palmettoes. 
 
 To the right is Chicora, and to the left Etiwan. 
 Between these rivers nestles Charleston, the Queen 
 City of the South ! And there is the beautiful bat- 
 tery, the spacious harbor — and beyond, Fort Sumter 
 and the deep blue sea. 
 
 But here is " Sweet Home !" With grateful hearts 
 we offer up devout thanks to God for his protection 
 14 
 
106 Wayside Travel. 
 
 over us during our rambles of five thousand miles 
 by land and water, amid dangers seen and unseen. 
 It has, indeed, been to us a tour of varied and in- 
 tense pleasure ; having, in some five months, visited 
 the principal objects of interest in North and British 
 America. 
 
 We are glad to be again at our quiet home, believ- 
 ing that earth possesses no greater joys than the 
 peaceful comforts of home ! At least, this is the 
 experience of 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Charleston, S. C, Sept. 20th, 1857. 
 
SKETCHES 
 
 WHAT I SAW 
 
 EUROPE 
 
PREPARING 
 
 VOYAGE TO EUROPE. 
 
 All Right, says the Captain — All Wrong, thou gl it the 
 Passengers. 
 
 A few days since the heat became so intense in 
 New York that I determined to leave its glowing 
 masses of brick and mortar and look for a cooler 
 abode. I engaged passage and sailed at 5 o'clock 
 on the evening of the 5th for the celebrated summer 
 retreat of Newport. We had a fine view of the ship- 
 ping in New York harbor; and it is a sight worth 
 looking at. The change from the heated brick walls 
 and noisy streets to the fresh sea-breeze was delight- 
 ful. Our steamer moved swiftly through the placid 
 Sound, and all on board seemed to enjoy the voyage 
 exceedingly. I inquired of a fellow-passenger the 
 character of our steamer; he replied, "A No. 1 — 
 cost six hundred thousand dollars." I discovered 
 that his estimate of the quality of the ship was 
 governed by the dollars she cost. 
 
1 10 Preparing for a Voyage to Europe. 
 
 About 1 1 o'clock the passengers began to retire 
 for the night. I was on deck, talking over, with 
 an old Charleston friend, the years of trial through 
 which we had passed in the tempest-tost Confederacy. 
 Suddenly the great wheels of the A No. i steamer 
 ceased to turn. "What's the matter?" says one. 
 "A boat ahead; stopped to let her get out of our 
 way." I noticed considerable confusion among the 
 passengers, and heard a lady say, "O, Harry, the 
 boat is on fire! we are lost! we are lost!" Poor 
 Harry was endeavoring to assure his frightened wife 
 that there was no danger, but his pale face told that 
 he too was alarmed. I stepped quickly to the side of 
 the steamer, and, sure enough, she seemed to be on 
 fire! The captain, however, assured the passengers 
 that "it was all right," but the steamer stood still and 
 the excitement increased. "Bring out the hawser, 
 and all hands on deck," cried the captain. "Bill," 
 says John, "what does the captain want the 'horser' 
 brought on deck for?" "To enable the passengers 
 to swim ashore, I guess," coolly replied John. " How 
 far is to land?" "Seven miles to the Connecticut 
 shore, fifteen to Long Island." "I'm bound for 
 wooden nutmegs, then, certain," says Bill. "Bring 
 the axe and saw here; hurry up, cut away these 
 planks. Be in a hurry." "What is the matter, cap- 
 tain?" was asked again, for the hundredth time, to 
 his great annoyance, and the same satisfactory (?) 
 answer was given — "All right!" 
 
 The captain moved quickly into the pilot house 
 and brought out a bundle of rods. " My dear, what 
 
Preparing for a Voyage to Europe. 1 1 1 
 
 is the captain going to do?" inquired an affectionate 
 wife of her husband. "Take a sounding, I calculate!" 
 I did not profess to be much of a sailor, but sky- 
 rockets seemed to me queer instruments with which 
 to try the depth of the sea. The captain ordered a 
 match to be brought him quickly. Away went the 
 streak of lightning, exploding several hundred feet 
 above the ship. This circumstance added new terror 
 to the alarm of the frightened passengers, and I 
 began to feel a little shaky myself. We all knew 
 that the rockets were signals of distress, but we 
 did not know how soon we were to be blown up 
 or go to the bottom. One, two, three, four rock- 
 ets were sent up, giving us quite a Fourth of 
 July display of fireworks, which, however, was not 
 much enjoyed by the spectators. The captain was 
 looking anxiously through his glasses, and again he 
 says, "All right; they see us, and are coming this 
 way." 
 
 Several miles distant the light of a steamer could 
 be seen approaching us, and as she came nearer and 
 nearer, all hearts grew stronger; and when a voice 
 through a speaking trumpet cried out, " Who are 
 you, and what can I do for you?" the passengers, for 
 the first time, began to think perhaps all would be 
 right; and when we were lashed securely to the 
 strange steamer, we felt — that we had two strings to 
 our bow. During the night the damages to the 
 machinery were repaired, and next morning we landed 
 safely at Newport, feeling thankful that we were 
 neither burned nor drowned. 
 
1 1 2 Preparing for a Voyage to Europe. 
 
 Having enjoyed the refreshing sea-breezes and 
 bathing of this famous summer resort for some days, 
 I returned to New York, and have taken passage in 
 the fine steamship "Napoleon III," which leaves on 
 Saturday, direct for France. When I learn to speak 
 and write French, you shall hear from me again. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 New York, July 12, 1866. 
 
EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 LETTER FIRST 
 
 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Steamship Napoleon III, 
 New York, July, 1866. 
 
 Having engaged passage on the fine French steamer, 
 I gladly quit my heated apartments at the Fifth Ave- 
 nue Hotel, and embark on board the noble steamship 
 Napoleon III. 
 
 At 7 A. M., a salute from the booming cannon, and 
 we bid adieu to the great American Metropolis and 
 the friends who crowd the wharves to speak a last 
 farewell ! 
 
 My heart beats with delightful anticipations, as our 
 splendid ship, with her bow turned towards beautiful 
 France, gracefully glides from her moorings, and cau- 
 tiously feels her way down the Bay of New York, 
 through the shipping which fills that spacious harbor. 
 An hour more and New York fades from our sight. 
 We are now enjoying a delightful sea-breeze. 
 
 What a change from the heated walls of Gotham ! 
 
 We are fairly launched on the glorious Atlantic, 
 with three thousand miles of restless ocean before us, 
 but sailing as fast as wind and steam can drive us, 
 15 
 
114 European CoiTcspo7idence. 
 
 The dream of childhood is about being realized ; 
 from my earliest recollection, I have always had a de- 
 sire to travel by land or sea. 
 
 Even when a wee mountain boy, I would climb the 
 loftiest peak of the Alleghany's, and look with admi- 
 ration upon the mountains, as they lay heaped around 
 me, and the lovely valleys which nestled at my feet. 
 
 As much as I dislike the boisterous ocean, yet I 
 am willing to encounter all its perils for an opportu- 
 nity of wandering amid the classic and historical 
 scenes of the Old World. It is especially refreshing 
 after having been shut up for so many years in the 
 shipwrecked Confederacy, to travel and breathe a 
 little fresh free air. 
 
 I must now take a survey of my compagnons de voy- 
 age. From their cheerful and respectable appearance, 
 we have promise during our voyage of an agreeable 
 party. The two hundred and fifty passengers are 
 made up of a mongrel and merry set of persons. 
 Here we find the gay and light-hearted Frenchman, 
 the musical German, the consequential John Bull, the 
 polite Spaniard, and last, though not least, the wide- 
 awake American. 
 
 Among the passengers is a group of beautifully 
 dressed ladies. They are natives of dear old France, 
 but speak English, and have a polite word for all. 
 Quite a number of this party, I understand, are milli- 
 ners and dressmakers of New York, Philadelphia and 
 New Orleans, on their way to Paris, for the latest 
 fashions, over which the fair creatures of Jonathan's 
 land will run mad. 
 
European Correspondence. 115 
 
 At table No. 3, sit two elderly ladies in whom I am 
 wonderfully interested, not only because they are 
 Georgians, but from the fact that they are the daugh- 
 ters of one of Georgia's earliest settlers, and most 
 honored sons. Their father was a native of honest 
 old Scotland, who, when quite a youth, left his home 
 for the New World. After a stormy passage he 
 landed in Charleston, a poor boy, without money or 
 friends; but he possessed intelligence, energy, activ- 
 ity and sobriety, necessary qualifications to ensure 
 success. At that time Georgia was a colony, inhab- 
 ited mainly by the Indians, and was a good field for 
 the young Scotch adventurer. He settled in Savan- 
 nah and opened a small store. His stock in trade 
 consisted of a few hundred dollars worth of English 
 and Scotch notions. These he exchanged with the 
 Indians for furs, hides, game, and the like. In a few 
 years he extended his trade as far as Augusta, at 
 which place he established a branch of his Savannah 
 house. At that period, Bristol was the Liverpool of 
 England, and carried on considerable trade with the 
 West Indies and American colonies. Small cargoes 
 of such articles as were suited to the wants of the 
 Indians and half civilized whites were shipped from 
 Bristol to Savannah, consigned to the father of these 
 two ladies. 
 
 He had lived long enough in the Old World to un- 
 derstand the value of land. He purchased large tracts 
 of rich lands in the valley of the Savannah River for 
 a trifling consideration, and became one of the most 
 successful planters in the South. The few families of 
 
1 1 6 European Correspondence. 
 
 imported Africans which he settled on his plantations, 
 by kind usage and good treatment had increased to 
 nearly one thousand when the Emancipation Procla- 
 mation was issued. Our Scotch merchant and planter 
 became a member of the Continental Congress, and 
 was, subsequently, governor of Georgia. He sent 
 from Savannah to Boston some of the powder that 
 was used at the battle of Bunker Hill. A friend in- 
 quired of me, "What makes the two Savannah ladies 
 look so sad — have they lost everything by the war?" 
 "Not everything," I replied. Their income, which 
 was very large, has been reduced to forty thousand 
 dollars per annum. And yet they feel as if they were 
 on the broad road to the almshouse — and why should 
 they not? Four years ago they counted their wealth 
 by millions, and they felt secure in that wealth, as it 
 was guaranteed to them by the Constitution of the 
 United States — a guarantee their venerable father had 
 taught them was beyond question. What do they see 
 now? A million of dollars worth of property swept 
 away by a paper proclamation, followed almost imme- 
 diately by Sherman's army, torch in hand. The home 
 in which their father, Governor Telfair, brilliantly en- 
 tertained General Washington during his visit to 
 Georgia in 179 1 , was consigned to the flames. The 
 family treasures, in the shape of paintings, furniture, 
 etc., which had been accumulating for more than a 
 century — treasures that cost large sums of money, 
 but treasures which cannot be computed by dollars 
 and cents, many of them being family portraits and 
 relics — were, in a few short hours, either stolen or 
 
European Correspondence. 1 1 7 
 
 reduced to ashes. Have these ladies not good reason 
 for looking sad? Have they anything left that they 
 can call their own? Can they make a contract with 
 a servant that was born in their own house, without 
 the sanction of the Freedmen's Bureau, the managers 
 of which no more understand the negro character than 
 they understand the principles of honesty? And 
 moreover, has not the property for which their father 
 worked so hard been taken from them without trial by 
 judge or jury? Have they killed anybody that they 
 should be thus treated? Why is it that the protection 
 of the government their father helped to make should 
 be denied them ? Is it any wonder that they look and 
 feel sad, and quit the country that has afforded them 
 so little protection? But enough. This picture in- 
 creases my sea-sickness. I must go on deck and get 
 some fresh air. 
 
 The more I see of the deep, wide ocean, the more 
 my admiration of Christopher Columbus increases. 
 It required greater courage to sail in those frail boats 
 of his, in an unknown sea, and with an ignorant and 
 mutinous crew to manage, than Napoleon the Great 
 possessed to fight all the battles that won him so much 
 glory. I am sure that if the discovery of America 
 had been left to men of my stamp, the wild Indians 
 would now be enjoying the fishing and hunting 
 grounds in the sweet Vale of Nacoochee, and eating 
 codfish and clams on the Plymouth Rock. Some 
 people were made to fight ; some to navigate ; some 
 to tame the lightning ; but the majority to work in 
 humbler walks of trade, agriculture or mechanics. 
 
1 1 8 European Correspondence. 
 
 We must have war to fulfil the Scriptures ; telegraphs 
 to send forth knowledge with the swiftness of light- 
 ning, and navigation to transport the products of com- 
 merce from land to land. 
 
 This is Sunday, and the eighth day at sea. The 
 day is being spent by many in card-playing. Not a 
 Bible have I seen in the hands of saint or sinner; but 
 among the passengers I observed a devout Catholic 
 lady this morning counting her beads. The two 
 priests on board are jolly-looking fellows ; but if they 
 have their prayer-books, I have not seen them. In 
 the English ships, the American Bible Society deposit 
 a Bible in each state-room. On the French line of 
 steamers I understand this is forbidden. 
 
 I have made up my mind that a voyage across the 
 Atlantic, imprisoned for two weeks with three hun- 
 dred men, women and children, representing all grades 
 of American and European society, is about the best 
 school for the study of human nature that is presented 
 to a man in his wanderings through life. I have made 
 the acquaintance of ladies and gentlemen, and already 
 feel attachments for them, akin to those for relations 
 and old friends. There are some of our passengers, 
 however, who are anything but agreeable or lovely. 
 
 I have been surprised to see how ignorant of the 
 South and its people the majority of the Northerners 
 seem to be. Their information is derived mainly from 
 ignorant or partisan newspapers, and Radical lecturers. 
 The pulpit is also responsible for many of the errors 
 which have crept into the public mind in reference to 
 the habits and customs of the Southern people. 
 
European Correspondence. 119 
 
 Many believed that those who owned slaves took 
 delight in torturing them. A greater falsehood was 
 never promulgated. The Southern planter, before the 
 war, was the highest type of a humane gentleman. 
 He knew that he could no more be respected by his 
 neighbors or considered a gentleman, if he maltreated 
 his slaves, than if he were a blackleg and a rogue. 
 Besides, what nonsense to suppose that any sane man 
 would destroy or injure his own property? He was 
 impelled by self-interest, if by no higher motive, to be 
 humane to his people. 
 
 I hear them cry out, "Land," and I see the green 
 hills of dear old France. Don't my heart beat with 
 joy. G. W. W. 
 
 Steamship Napoleon III, July, 1866. 
 
LETTER SECOND 
 
 First Impressions of France. 
 
 Harbor of Brest, 
 Steamship Napoleon III, July, 1866. 
 
 We are now in full view of the vine-clad hills and 
 valleys of the beautiful land of France. The passen- 
 gers have the choice of landing at Brest and travelling 
 eighteen hours by rail to Paris, or of proceeding in 
 the steamer to Havre, some two hundred and fifty 
 miles distant, from which point they have a run of 
 only five hours by rail to Paris. The day is charm- 
 ing, the sea smooth, and most of my friends have 
 decided to go to Havre. The inducement to ac- 
 company them is great, but I am tired of the sea, 
 and want to stand once more on terra firma. This 
 eighteen hours of railway will give me an opportunity 
 of travelling several hundred miles through an inter- 
 esting portion of France. 
 
 The great iron wheels of Napoleon III stop for the 
 first time in twelve days ; a small steamer approaches, 
 and seventy passengers are transferred to her. The 
 polite captain assists each passenger from one steamer 
 to the other, wishing them a safe and pleasant journey. 
 Napoleon III is a splendid ship, and Captain Bocande 
 has the entire confidence of his passengers, as being 
 an experienced and skilful navigator. Success to 
 the captain and the ship that carried us safely across 
 the Atlantic. 
 
European Correspondence, 121 
 
 Never did a boy's heart beat faster at the sight of 
 his sweetheart than mine does as I step from the 
 steamer for the first time upon the soil of the Old 
 World! A desire of my heart, long delayed, is at 
 last gratified. We are safely landed at Brest, which 
 is a beautiful city, situated on the western extremity 
 of France, and has a population of sixty thousand. 
 Brest has a secure and commodious harbor, with 
 twenty-five feet of water. The emperor is making it 
 one of the strongest naval stations of his empire. 
 
 The town clock strikes eleven, but my watch indi- 
 cates the time 'to be six. We have travelled nearly 
 three thousand miles, in the direction of the rising of 
 the sun, which makes the difference in the time 
 between New York and Brest five hours. Have I 
 gained or lost five hours in the voyage? Our baggage 
 is conveyed to the customhouse, and a strict search 
 made for dutiable goods. It would be a "green" 
 man indeed, who would attempt to smuggle merchan- 
 dise into France that had passed through the hands 
 of the internal and eternal revenue officers of the 
 United States. Unfortunately for us, there is not an 
 article we can produce except .cotton, or, perhaps, 
 tobacco, that can be exported, and these are not 
 commodities likely to be found in one's trunk. 
 
 As we walk along the streets the granite pavement 
 seems much more unsteady than the ship. They say 
 this unpleasant motion will be felt for several days. 
 I am quite surprised to see the women hobbling along, 
 their little French feet covered with wooden shoes. 
 It reminds one of the days of the "make shift" and 
 16 
 
122 European Correspondence. 
 
 I. 
 
 emergency in the Confederacy. We have taken a 
 hasty view of the city, and are off for Paris. 
 
 The cars or coaches here are very different from 
 those on our roads. The first-class coaches have six 
 seats, the cushions stuffed with hair and lined with 
 silk. The second and third class cars are much more 
 crowded, and not so comfortable. The fare is two to 
 three cents per mile. The roads are kept in splendid 
 order, and to prevent accidents you will see a woman 
 standing at each station and crossing with a red flag 
 in one hand and a trumpet in the other, ready to 
 sound the alarm if all is not right. They have no 
 sleeping cars, as with us. 
 
 This mention of sleeping cars, reminds me of an 
 abominable practice they have on the night trains 
 running between Washington and New York. To 
 secure a good night's rest, I engaged a berth in a 
 sleeping car at Washington early in the day, as I was 
 informed that those who failed to take this precaution 
 had to sit up all night. My check called for letter D, 
 No. 32. As I was preparing to retire for the night, 
 the weather being quite hot, I began to doff the 
 heaviest portion of my wardrobe ; to my surprise, in 
 stepped a lady into my quarters, and was preparing 
 to retire. I said to her, " Madame, I presume you 
 have made a mistake in your room." She said her 
 check called for "31," which was immediately under 
 mine. I asked the steward to explain matters, and 
 was coolly informed that ladies were as much en- 
 titled to sleeping cars as the men, and that the tickets 
 were sold indiscriminately. The lady did not seem 
 
European Correspondence. 123 
 
 scared. I imagine she was a traveller ! I turned in 
 for the night, and thought of the wonderful improve- 
 ment on the roads during our four years imprison- 
 ment in the Confederacy. These night trains are said 
 to be very popular with the members of Congress ; 
 they all have free tickets. 
 
 The railways in France are generally enclosed with 
 green hedge fences, and are lined with beautiful 
 flowers. 
 
 The hills and valleys through which we are pass- 
 ing are picturesque. The impression, however, that 
 " every foot of land in France is in a high state of 
 cultivation " is a great mistake. I should think that 
 at least one-third of the country between Brest and 
 Paris is uncultivated. The soil is naturally very poor, 
 and no fertilizer has been found to make oats, rye, 
 grass and barley grow on the barren hills of France. 
 The country is very broken and rocky, and I am 
 struck with the extreme poverty of the people. I 
 was not prepared to find so many beggars, they are 
 glad to receive even a copper. The women work in 
 the fields, generally without shoes, bonnets or hats, 
 and do not require Paris hoops to show off their well 
 proportioned limbs. They live in low stone houses 
 looking as old as the hills by which they are sur- 
 rounded; the houses are covered with straw, and 
 poorly ventilated. In the same yard, you find a 
 dwelling-house, barn, kitchen, stables, pig-pens and 
 haystacks, having anything but a cleanly and inviting 
 appearance. I understand, however, that this is much 
 the poorest portion of France. The agricultural im- 
 
124 European Correspondence. 
 
 plernents used are of the cheapest quality. I observe 
 them cutting oats and rye with reap-hooks, such as 
 were in use before the Christian era. Many of these 
 people do not know what it is to sit by a comfortable 
 wood fire, the trees having disappeared from the land 
 many hundred years ago. I see them digging up 
 the low turfy ground, which, when dried, possesses 
 a combustible quality, like peat, and is used as a sub- 
 stitute for wood or coal. You will learn, from the 
 above picture that I am somewhat disappointed in the 
 agricultural appearance and condition of the people 
 and country. I was not prepared to find so much 
 poverty. I wish, however, to be understood as de- 
 scribing the general appearance, manners, habits and 
 customs of the inhabitants as they appear to me at first 
 sight. In our journey, we have passed, for miles, 
 through districts in the highest state of cultivation, 
 and have seen residences that would do credit to 
 Broadway. We have also passed through quite a 
 number of beautiful villages and cities, ornamented 
 with fine churches, public buildings and manufactur- 
 ing establishments. A large proportion of the men 
 are either in the army, or are employed on the rail- 
 roads, and in the workshops. The women till the 
 soil and populate the rural districts, often without 
 husbands ! I think the country daughters of France 
 have a hard time of it. The curse put upon mother 
 Eve, when banished from the Garden of Eden, rests 
 heavily upon them. The Old Serpent's head may be 
 bruised, but he is not dead ; his foot-prints are to be 
 seen all along these valleys, so rich with flowers and 
 
European Correspondence. 125 
 
 fruit. But here is Paris ! What a change in the pros- 
 pect and the picture ! This wondrous city will need 
 a letter of itself, and, possibly, many letters. Nous 
 verrons ! 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Paris, July, 1866. 
 
 LETTER THIRD. 
 
 Paris and Napoleon. 
 
 Well, my friend, I have been in this wonderful city 
 for ten days, and with the best possible facilities for 
 sight-seeing; yet I have had but a bird's-eye view of 
 the thousand and one objects of interest to be seen 
 here. No city in the world possesses such attractions 
 as the metropolis of France. It is the policy of the 
 government, by every possible means, to make Paris 
 the centre of refinement, luxury and pleasure. In 
 her palaces you find spacious galleries filled with 
 the paintings, statues, and antiquities of all ages, 
 executed by the best artists throughout the habitable 
 globe. To examine each painting and statue care- 
 fully would require months. Here you find a city, 
 the work of eighteen hundred years, encircled by a 
 wall twenty-one miles in circumference, covering an 
 area of nineteen thousand acres, with a population of 
 two million souls. Paris has been the recipient of 
 the rich spoils of the most successful generals that 
 
126 European Correspondence. 
 
 ever engaged in warfare ; and it has been the prize 
 over which ambitious warriors have been contending 
 since the reign of Julius Caesar. There is scarcely 
 a fruit or flower in the known world that cannot 
 be found in the open gardens or conservatories of 
 Paris. 
 
 Rome, in her days of glory, extended her con- 
 quests over France, and was mistress of this country 
 for several centuries, during which time the seeds of 
 the Romish Church were sown broadcast, and they 
 have taken deep root. In the administration of the 
 government, the Church, through the clergy, often 
 exercises greater influence than the kings. I do not 
 look upon the Romish Church as I did in my youth. 
 There are priests in Protestant Churches of whom I 
 know, who would, if an opportunity offered, be as 
 fierce in their persecutions as the Jacobins of France. 
 In the sixteenth century, in the reign of Charles IX 
 and Henry III, the last kings of the Orleans race, the 
 Protestants were persecuted with wanton cruelty. 
 Many of them sought a refuge in the Carolinas, and 
 their descendants are our most honored citizens. The 
 successful termination of the American Revolution, 
 which French money and French valor did so much 
 to accomplish, doubtless hastened the terrible scenes 
 of the French Revolution. In the history of France 
 there are many bloody pages, but none of them com- 
 pare with those which record the horrors of the Reign 
 of Terror. Young Napoleon Bonaparte was the man 
 to bring light and order out of chaos and darkness. 
 His successful campaigns in Italy, Spain, Germany 
 
European Correspondence. ' .127 
 
 and Egypt, contributed largely to the galleries of 
 paintings and statues that are found so interesting to 
 the stranger in Paris. 
 
 Napoleon gave the French capital an impetus which 
 has been onward and upward in a career of increasing 
 prosperity. During his short reign he spent twenty- 
 five millions of dollars in beautifying and improving 
 Paris. But Napoleon, like other great generals, al- 
 lowed an ill-fated ambition to ruin him. 
 
 Ambition ! Ah, it wells up even in the bosom of 
 the bare-footed school boy on discovering that he can 
 whistle Yankee Doodle, and has mastered his A B 
 C's ; and when he can begin to spell dog and cat, he 
 feels that he is a scholar, and destined to be a states- 
 man. When he learns to read of the conquests of 
 Alexander the Great, and of the discoveries of Chris- 
 topher Columbus, he turns soldier, and marches his 
 imaginary army to the music of an old tin pan, and 
 he launches his little bark on the ocean under the sail 
 of a pigeon's wing. Ambition is a noble virtue when 
 properly directed ; but when it impels a man to put 
 aside a Josephine, because she cannot be the mother 
 of young kings and princes, and sacrifices half a mil- 
 lion of lives in attempting to march to the snow-clad 
 city of Moscow, ambition of such a kind becomes a 
 criminal passion meriting God's judgment. 
 
 Josephine was the guardian angel of Napoleon, and 
 when he put her away for a new wife, Fate turned 
 against him, and his star set to rise no more ! Napo- 
 leon's remains were brought from St. Helena by 
 Prince de Joinville in 1840. Few persons come to 
 
128 European Correspondence. 
 
 Paris without visiting the tomb of Napoleon. More 
 than a million of dollars have already been expended 
 upon it, and the mechanics are still at work. It is 
 one of the most splendid monuments in the world, 
 but the name of Napoleon Bonaparte will last when 
 this magnificent monument shall crumble into dust. 
 On the tomb is the following inscription, extracted 
 from his will : " I desire that my ashes may repose on 
 the banks of the Seine, in the midst of that people of 
 France whom I have loved so much." In a recess 
 are placed his sword and hat, also a large number of 
 flags captured in battle, and the golden crown pre- 
 sented to him by the town of Cherbourg. No man 
 ever wound himself around the hearts of the people 
 of France as did Napoleon Bonaparte. 
 
 Napoleon III is the man of the nineteenth century. 
 He has the head of Napoleon I ; but thus far has 
 steered clear of the rock on which his uncle foun- 
 dered. The French nation, under the rule of the 
 present Emperor, has made rapid progress in wealth, 
 power and greatness. Napoleon had been President 
 of the Republic of France only two years when he 
 was proclaimed Emperor in 1852. Napoleon III has 
 now governed France as long as any of his prede- 
 cessors since the days of Louis XV, who reigned 
 for forty years. No monarch ever governed a nation 
 with better judgment than the present Emperor, and 
 he exerts this day greater influence over the destinies 
 of Europe than all the kings and queens on this con- 
 tinent. Through his diplomacy nearly all the wars 
 that have occurred in Europe since his reign have been 
 
European Correspondence. 129 
 
 settled. The Emperor will be likely to embrace the 
 present opportunity of restoring some of the territo- 
 rial lines that were so deranged when Napoleon I 
 was banished. It is a bold thing to make a demand 
 on a nation like Prussia, which has so recently 
 vindicated its character for military prowess, and 
 a nation, too, that has seven hundred thousand 
 trained soldiers, flushed with victory and distin- 
 guished for valor to stand behind the celebrated 
 " needle-gun." 
 
 It would be a terrible thing for two great nations 
 to go to war about such an insignificant territory as 
 that of Sarlouis, but when the pride of a nation is 
 aroused, and its national honor seems at stake, the 
 question of a few square miles may bring the armies 
 of the two great nations of France and Prussia into 
 bloody conflict. When Napoleon makes a demand, 
 he will be likely to adhere to it at all hazards. I 
 cannot think that Prussia will risk the advantages 
 so recently obtained over Austria, by refusing what 
 seems a reasonable demand of France. France does 
 not ask that the kingdom conquered by Napoleon be 
 restored, but that the old lines of 1792 and 18 14 be 
 re-established. After the battle of Waterloo, a treaty 
 known as the Peace of 18 15 was made, and the 
 fortresses of Sarlouis and Landau were taken from 
 the French. They cover a territory not twenty-five 
 miles square. Prussia only has possession of Sar- 
 louis ; Landau is in Rhenish Bavaria. The Germans 
 say they will not be " treated as Mexicans," but resist 
 to the last extremity any interference by France with 
 17 
 
130 European Correspondence. 
 
 their domestic relations. A few weeks will decide the 
 question, and it is greatly to be desired that it be 
 settled without the shedding of blood. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Paris, August, 1866. 
 
 LETTER FOURTH 
 
 The Emperor 's Fete — Decoration of Napoleon's Grave — 
 Mimic War and Real War. 
 
 The 1 6th of August in Paris is like the 4th of July 
 in New York, and Christmas at the South, only "a 
 good deal more so." From the 1st to the 16th, little 
 else is talked of here but the Emperor's fete. This is 
 a national and a church festival combined. On this 
 grand occasion free indulgence, and the greatest lib- 
 erties, are granted both by Church and State. The 
 lame, the halt, the blind, who have been shut up for 
 twelve months by the strictest police regulations, are 
 now permitted to ascend from the dark, damp cellar, 
 and descend from the lofty cramped attics to beseech 
 alms of the millions who are swarming in the streets. 
 The privilege of asking alms in Paris is granted only 
 on the occasion of the fete. Large sums of money 
 are expended by the government in preparing for this 
 annual celebration. The railways reduce their fare to 
 a very low rate, and the country comes to town, from 
 A to Z. I made four excursions on the tops of the 
 
European Correspondence. 131 
 
 omnibuses to the suburbs of Paris, to see the vast 
 multitude of people, as they came crowding into the 
 city in the antiquated carriages of the first century. 
 The throng was so great in the streets, it was worth 
 one's life to attempt to walk. The houses from cellar 
 to garret were decorated with national flags. Even 
 the horses' heads were ornamented with them. 
 
 The honor of announcing that the fete had com- 
 menced was conferred on the small remnant of Napo- 
 leon's veterans and invalids. The booming cannon 
 was heard at an early hour from the hospital for the 
 superannuated soldiers. At various points in the city 
 depots of provisions were established, and gratui- 
 tously distributed to the poor and infirm. Many a 
 poor soul was made happy by this charity, which is 
 said to have been paid for out of the Emperor's private 
 purse. The six hundred thousand troops received a 
 double portion of wine, and all who could be relieved 
 from service were permitted to leave the barracks and 
 be out till 12 o'clock at night. The military with their 
 splendid bands paraded the streets, and were objects 
 of great attraction. 
 
 On this occasion, it is the custom of the old soldiers 
 of the First Emperor to visit his tomb and decorate 
 his grave with a fresh wreath of flowers. This, to me, 
 was an affecting and interesting sight. The number 
 of these faithful veterans is diminishing every year. 
 Like the fathers of our own Revolution, they have 
 nearly all gone to their rest. 
 
 At 1 o'clock the theatres, operas, museums, and 
 all public places of amusement were thrown open 
 
132 European Cotrespondence. 
 
 without charge for admittance. The vast multitude 
 of people began to assemble around these houses at 
 the dawn of day. Many stood at the doors five to 
 six hours. They were kept in a line of ten abreast 
 by the police. These lines were often several hun- 
 dred yards in length. 
 
 This is a proof of the fondness of the French for 
 amusements. They are a gay, light-hearted people. 
 On the River Seine the boat races took place. These 
 races drew large crowds to witness the successful 
 competitors for the prizes. 
 
 The garden of the Tuileries was thronged all day. 
 Near the Royal Palace was erected a lofty colonnade 
 formed of colored lamps, arranged with great taste; 
 the letter N in gold color, and the imperial crown, in 
 crimson, appeared on the columns. The four side 
 avenues, leading from the palace to the fountain, 
 were beautifully decorated with lamps and Chinese 
 lanterns of the variegated colors of orange, pink, 
 blue, red and green. The effect was very beautiful. 
 The fountains were all set free for performance, and 
 the display of water works seen at night through the 
 brilliant illumination was grand to behold. Down 
 the centre avenue of the garden, stood at equal dis- 
 tances, lofty piles, bearing each an escutcheon of 
 colored lamps having an N in green, surmounted by 
 white, and a crown in yellow. The tri-colored French 
 flag floated at the top of each. In the Place de Con- 
 corde — the famous square where Louis XVI and 
 Marie Antoinette were guillotined — the globes were 
 lar<je and of ground elass, lighted with eas. In the 
 
European Correspondence. 133 
 
 centre of that avenue is an ornamental garden, gotten 
 up for the occasion, filled with the choicest flowers 
 and shrubs. This was formed around an " Egyptian 
 Palace," with lofty colonnades, having gas pipes run- 
 ning through it, which would give more than fifty 
 thousand jets of flame. On the faces, north and south, 
 appeared the Imperial Eagle, and on the east and 
 west, two immense suns. Up the avenue of the 
 Champs Elysees rows of white globes ran along each 
 side for more than a mile, extending to the Triumphal 
 Arch. This grand monument was brilliantly illumi- 
 nated, displaying to fine advantage the historical 
 scenes illustrative of the many hard fought battles and 
 victories of Napoleon I. 
 
 A little after dusk we started in a carriage to the 
 garden of the Tuileries and Champs Elysees, but 
 the police stopped us, as carriages were not permitted 
 to be driven within a mile of either place. Not will- 
 ing to risk our lives in the crowd, we drove some four 
 miles, and came into the rear of the illumination 
 where the crowd was not so dense, and where we had 
 a fine view from a high hill, near the new Fair Grounds. 
 The festoons of lights crossing each other in every 
 direction, and the beautiful effect of the fountains 
 playing, made the scene quite enchanting. The pri- 
 vate houses, markets, hotels, etc., were generally 
 illuminated either with long lines of gas-burners, or 
 with Venetian lanterns. The use of fire-crackers in 
 the streets has wisely been abolished. The fireworks 
 on the Seine were grand. They commenced by a 
 flight of rockets, succeeded by an eruption of Roman 
 
!34 European Correspondence. 
 
 candles, filling the air with various hues. The illumi- 
 nation representing the initials of the Emperor's 
 family was probably more admired than any part of 
 the exhibition. 
 
 We reached home a little after midnight, highly 
 delighted with the day's entertainment. A finer dis- 
 play of fireworks I do not suppose could be produced 
 in any country. On this occasion there were twice as 
 many people in the streets of Paris as there are in the 
 great State of Georgia ; and to their credit be it said, 
 I did not during the whole day see a drunken man. 
 This vast mass of human beings was to me wonderfully 
 interesting. The spectacle of a great city pouring 
 forth its swarms by concert, numerous as bees, is 
 always a sight to seize upon the senses as with a feel- 
 ing of awe. At one or two crossings on the Seine, 
 the crowds were so dense that hundreds were tram- 
 pled under foot, and.some twenty persons killed. The 
 wonder is that more accidents did not occur. 
 
 About io o'clock, we stood on a high point of land 
 near the Triumphal Arch, and had a fine view of the 
 whole display of fireworks. They represented in one 
 portion of the exhibition a battle of infantry and 
 artillery. You could hear the sound of the musketry, 
 and see the flash of the cannon, and then the fuse 
 shell burst in the air, and in a moment more you 
 would hear the explosion. The scene reminded 
 me forcibly of the fete on Morris's Island, gotten 
 up by General Gilmore, and suddenly opening at 
 midnight for the amusement (?) of the people of 
 Charleston. 
 
European Coircspondence. 135 
 
 Just think of a Christian nation who were for two 
 years employed in throwing hot shot and shell into a 
 city among helpless women and children ! Let it not 
 be told abroad, or written in history, that a nation all 
 one blood could be engaged in such warfare. History 
 teaches us, that civil wars, of all others, are the most 
 terrible, reckless and remorseless. Just look at Ger- 
 many. You see a million and a half of men speaking 
 the same language, sons of the same Fatherland, 
 divided only by artificial lines, engaged in the most 
 deadly conflict, and sending death, desolation and 
 misery throughout the land. Hear what a heart- 
 broken mother says after the last battle fought in 
 Germany, near Prague, when the Austrians suffered 
 so severely : 
 
 " Deeply afflicted, I announce to our relations and 
 friends, that my beloved husband died yesterday 
 morning from the terrible agitation caused by the 
 death of our children. Our five sons, Francis Joseph, 
 Ernest, George, Leopold, and Henrich de Stovolinski, 
 have all laid down their lives for their beloved Em- 
 peror and master. Four young widows and an only 
 sister mourn with me ! De Stovolinski." 
 
 What a picture ! Such is war ! May a kind and 
 merciful Providence guide our people for all time to 
 come, in the paths of peace, love and unity. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Paris, August, 1866. 
 
LETTER FIFTH. 
 
 Preparing to Leave Paris — Market-places — Pere la 
 Chaise — Population of Paris — Revenue — Bank of 
 France. 
 
 If I am to visit Southern France ; to sail on the 
 lake of Geneva; to climb the snow-capped Alps of 
 Switzerland; to look upon the million and a half 
 of Austrian and Prussian soldiers who are standing in 
 battle array, awaiting the orders of their generals, I 
 must not linger too long on the banks of the Seine — 
 in the garden of the Tuileries, nor wander in the 
 market-places looking at the women coming in from 
 their little country gardens with their long baskets 
 strapped on their backs, filled with vegetables to feed 
 the millions of hungry people ; nor linger even to 
 admire the five thousand fat butchers, with miles of 
 stalls, filled with beef, pork, mutton, lamb and veal ; 
 nor pause to survey the myriads of fish, and the acres 
 of wine, beer, cider, ale, eggs, butter and cheese ; and 
 the white "maummas" with twenty thousand baskets 
 filled with peaches, nectarines, pears, plums, grapes, 
 prunes and figs, all from the valleys and vine-clad 
 hills of France. 
 
 But I must linger awhile longer in the flower 
 market, among the three thousand Gypsy girls, for 
 they have the choicest bouquets, made from the 
 
European Correspondence. 1 37 
 
 sweetest flowers of France. The flower markets of 
 Paris are very agreeable sights, and here floriculture 
 is brought to the highest state of perfection. 
 
 When I walk through these miles of markets, and 
 look at the immense quantity of vegetables, beef, pork, 
 mutton, poultry, fish, butter, cheese, wine, beer, eggs, 
 fruit, etc., I can but ask the question — "Where will 
 they find purchasers for these vast supplies ?" But 
 when I have left the market-places, and walked 
 through the broad avenues and boulevards, jostled on 
 every side by the masses of all sorts of people, then I 
 find myself asking the question — " How is this vast 
 multitude to be fed ?" To associate, in one idea, the 
 markets with the masses, gives us the immediate 
 reply. 
 
 These market-places were originally in a cemetery. 
 The dealers had their stalls among the tombstones. 
 In the course of time, burials in the cemetery were 
 interdicted, and the tombstones gave place to perma- 
 nent market-booths, and at length the graveyard was 
 dug up and levelled, and these long lines of markets 
 established. The foundations for life are thus ever 
 laid on those of death ! 
 
 The cemeteries of Paris have interested me, and I 
 have visited several of them. Interments in church- 
 yards have, for a long time, been wisely prohibited. 
 The early burying-grounds have all been levelled, and 
 splendid houses and streets have been built over them. 
 Pere la Chaise is the largest cemetery, and contains 
 two hundred acres of land. It is beautifully situated 
 in the suburbs of Paris ; is surrounded by valleys ; 
 18 
 
138 European Correspondence. 
 
 and commands not only a fine view of the city, but of 
 the surrounding country. It remains to be seen 
 whether this cemetery will share the fate of its prede- 
 cessors. The number and costliness of its monuments 
 and the celebrated names it contains, may protect it 
 from the encroachments of the city, for at least one 
 generation. 
 
 In this silent " city of the dead," I spent nearly a 
 day in looking at the monuments of the great men 
 and women of France. 
 
 The first monument that attracted my attention 
 here was that of M'lle Rachel, the celebrated actress. 
 The last time her charming voice was heard on the 
 stage, was in the winter of 1855, in Charleston, S. C. 
 She was then on her way to the beautiful land of 
 Cuba for the benefit of her health. I was a fellow 
 passenger of hers on the Steamship Isabel from 
 Charleston to Havana, and shall never forget her 
 sad, sweet countenance. After reaching Havana, the 
 balmy climate so revived her that she made an effort, 
 at the solicitation of many admirers, to appear again 
 on the stage — but alas! the slow but fatal consumption 
 had made too deep inroads on her shattered constitu- 
 tion — she could not fulfil her engagements. Poor 
 Rachel ! On being told that there was no hope of 
 her recovery, she asked to be carried to her native 
 land to die. After arriving in Paris, she lingered 
 a few weeks, and passed away. She was buried in 
 the Jewish cemetery, which is separated from the 
 Christian portion by a wall. The simple inscription 
 " Rachel," appears on her monument. In the same 
 
European Correspondence. 139 
 
 enclosure are the family vaults of the celebrated 
 Rothschilds. " Rothschild" is all that is inscribed on 
 the handsome but plain tomb. 
 
 I was surprised to find the graves of a number of 
 Englishmen in this cemetery — among them that of 
 Sidney Smith. The most expensive monument is that 
 of Countess Demidoff. It rests on a huge basement 
 of sculptured masonry, and is accessible by a flight of 
 stairs. The monument itself consists of eighteen 
 columns of white marble — the tomb is ornamented by 
 a cushion, bearing the name and coronet of the de- 
 ceased. Not far from this magnificent monument, is 
 a garden ten feet square, which interested me more 
 than the splendid tomb of the Countess. The garden 
 is filled with roses, violets, lilies, and other flowers. 
 The short mounds of earth indicate that there had 
 been six children buried within the enclosure. On a 
 small marble tablet which stands in the centre, is in- 
 scribed : " Rachel weepeth for her children, and will 
 not be comforted because they are not." Here is a 
 beautiful tribute of a sorrowing mother to her beloved 
 children. 
 
 We next come to an iron railing, enclosing the re- 
 mains of the unfortunate friend of Napoleon, Marshal 
 Ney. No monument marks his grave. The ground 
 is laid out as a small flower garden. A monument, 
 however, has been erected at the end of "Boulevard 
 de Sevastapol," on the spot where Marshal Ney was 
 shot. This was raised in December, 181 5. 
 
 Since the opening of Pere la Chaise, in 1804, more 
 than thirty millions of dollars have been expended in 
 
140 fc European Correspondence. 
 
 monuments alone. The number of tombs is twenty 
 thousand, and of persons interred, three hundred and 
 twenty-five thousand. As some fifty thousand per- 
 sons die every year in Paris, the cemeteries neces- 
 sarily fill up very rapidly. Whole families are often 
 buried in a space occupied by one grave — the first in- 
 terment is made very deep, and the coffins are placed 
 over each other, being separated by stone slabs. I 
 saw the seventh coffin put into one of these vaults. 
 The poor are buried quite shallow, and their time of 
 rest in the cemeteries is of very short duration — only 
 the rich are able to have perpetual graves. The ex- 
 perience is, that no cemetery stands in Paris more 
 than a century. A hundred years hence it will not 
 make much difference with the dead, whether their 
 ashes lie in marble vaults or have been scattered in 
 the valleys to make the flowers grow more beautifully. 
 It is the immortal part of man that we are interested 
 in. If that is in a safe place, then all will be well. 
 
 Notwithstanding there is much poverty and suffer- 
 ing in Paris, still the condition of the poor has greatly 
 improved within the past twenty years, and if France 
 will cultivate peace, the improvement will be much 
 greater. War has been the curse of the Old World 
 since the days of Julius Caesar. Population in Eu- 
 rope does not increase as with us. France had a 
 population in 1800 of twenty-seven millions; she now 
 has thirty-seven million eight hundred thousand, an 
 increase in sixty-five years of only forty per cent. 
 The population in Paris in 1800, was seven hundred 
 thousand, now it is two million. It will be seen that the 
 
European Correspondence. 141 
 
 increase of the city has been far greater than that of 
 the country. The number of births in Paris is sixty 
 thousand per annum, twenty thousand of this number 
 are illegitimate. One-third of the inhabitants of the 
 city, and a greater proportion in the country, are not 
 recognized by their parents. 
 
 Paris is draining the life-blood of the agricultural 
 and manufacturing districts by heavy taxation. A 
 farmer cannot enter the city without having his trunk 
 examined by a public officer. A poor market woman, 
 the mother of half a dozen little children, who wades 
 through wet and cold for miles, with her basket of 
 vegetables strapped on her back, and often with a 
 child in her arms, is required to make a declaration 
 and pay the duties. Nothing is exempt. The amount 
 of revenue derived from the agricultural and manu- 
 facturing districts is immense ; but it is all needed. 
 The expenses of the city government are startling, 
 amounting to forty millions of dollars per annum — 
 being greater than the expense of the whole United 
 States Government in its early administration. The 
 military, police, and public assistance of Paris costs 
 eight million per annum, and there was expended 
 last year for public works five million. The present 
 Emperor thinks nothing of pulling down a hundred 
 houses to widen a street, and to exhibit a better view 
 of a favorite church — the Cathedral of Notre Dame 
 for instance. 
 
 Paris being an inland city, has a limited foreign 
 commerce, but the amount of merchandise sold in the 
 hundred thousand stores and shops is immense. 
 
142 European Correspondence. 
 
 There are twenty-five thousand clothing establish- 
 ments in Paris. Nearly half a million of men and 
 women are employed in the shops ; the wages received 
 give them a bare subsistence. The Emperor, in 
 1856, purchased eighteen thousand square metres of 
 ground, on the Boulevard Mazas, on which houses 
 have been erected and rented to the poor at low 
 rates. 
 
 The Bank of France is a mammoth concern ; is 
 under government control, and has the exclusive 
 monopoly of issuing notes, which are payable at sight 
 in coin. The bank was established in 1803, with a 
 capital of ten million dollars, which has been increased 
 to forty millions. It is managed by a governor, two 
 deputy governors, three censors, and a council com- 
 posed of twelve members. The accounts are made 
 up daily and laid before the Board of Directors, and 
 are published monthly. Their last statement showed 
 thirty millions of dollars of specie in the vaults. It 
 pays twelve to fifteen per cent, to its shareholders. 
 The lowest rate of discount since 1852, was three and 
 a half — the highest, nine per cent. During the past 
 six months, when the rate of interest in the Bank of 
 England was ten per cent., money was abundant in 
 Paris at four per cent. Napoleon has in his council 
 men well versed in political economy and finance. I 
 asked my banker why he did not use his money 
 in London while there was a difference of six per 
 cent, in the rate of interest between the two cities. 
 His reply was, that if his depositors knew he was 
 using funds in London there would be a run on 
 
European Correspondence. 143 
 
 his bank. The recent heavy failures in London have 
 shaken the confidence of capitalists here in English 
 credits. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 LETTER SIXTH. 
 
 Humiliation of Napoleon III — Triumph of tlie Ger- 
 mans — Paris a Hive of Busy Bees — Grand Hotel — 
 Hotel Dieu — Cliolera — Armistice between Austria and 
 Prussia. 
 
 If the Emperor made a mistake in claiming Lan- 
 dau and Sarlouis of the Prussians, he has shown his 
 great wisdom in quietly and peaceably withdrawing 
 his claim on German territory. Napoleon First would 
 have risked his government, and sacrificed the lives 
 of a hundred thousand men, rather than submit to 
 the humiliation of being backed down by Bismark, 
 which the present Emperor and every Frenchman 
 must feel at this time. 
 
 Napoleon III was not slow in discovering that there 
 was fight in the obstinate Germans. The old King of 
 Prussia is never happier than when engaged in the 
 thickest of the battle, and he has at his command the 
 best disciplined and trained army in the world, ready 
 to march at a moment's notice to the battle-field. 
 Count Bismark could therefore give a prompt and 
 decisive reply to the modest request of the Emperor : 
 
144 European Correspondence. 
 
 " Not one foot of German territory will Prussia yield." 
 The mortification to French pride is withering in any 
 light in which you can view the question. 
 
 If the demand was so small as to be yielded, rather 
 than provoke a dispute, it proved clearly the strength 
 and mettle of the German power in promptly declar- 
 ing that they would go to war with France rather than 
 submit to even the shadow of dictation or exaction 
 from the French Government. The settlement of 
 this queston proves that the French are not prepared 
 for war, and that they have a prudent and wise ruler. 
 It also establishes the fact, that there is a great Ger- 
 man Confederacy, which is not afraid to cross swords 
 with the most powerful nation in Europe. I heartily 
 rejoice that this question, which threatened the peace 
 of Europe, has been settled, without a resort to arms. 
 
 I have now been fifteen days looking at the beauties 
 of the French metropolis. A fortnight more, and I 
 hope to be pretty well acquainted with Paris. 
 
 I was fortunate in making the acquaintance of Dr. 
 Bogle, of New Orleans, on my way from New York. 
 We are joined here by his brother, who is a surgeon 
 in the Austrian army. My friends speak English, 
 French and German, which facilitates our sight-seeing 
 very much. We go forth from early morning till late 
 at night. When it rains we visit the galleries of fine 
 arts, museums, etc., and when the sun shines we ride 
 on the tops of the omnibuses, and look at the crowds 
 of people, at the fine houses and gardens. 
 
 The omnibus lines run through the splendid boule- 
 vards and broad avenues of Paris — streets as smooth 
 
European Correspondence. 145 
 
 as the ocean beach. We have climbed to the tops of 
 the lofty church steeples, and triumphal arches, and 
 looked at the wonderful spectacle of more than a 
 hundred thousand houses encircled within the walls 
 of Paris. In this busy hive — this aggregation of two 
 millions of souls — you see the restless French people, 
 who, not a century ago, under the guidance of such 
 spirits as Robespierre, made the streets run with 
 blood. You remember a famous reply of Robespierre, 
 justifying his massacres : " It should not be denied to 
 the people, who have suffered for ages, to enjoy the 
 vengeance of a single day." It was an uprising of a 
 long oppressed democracy, against a tyrannical feudal 
 aristocracy. The mob was not satisfied with the blood 
 of the living monarchs, but they destroyed the long 
 range of royal tombs, scattering their bodies in every 
 stage of decay. The remains of Louis XVI, and 
 Marie Antoinette, were burned. The Bastile was 
 destroyed, and the churches and the galleries of art 
 suffered severely in this reign of terror. The vast 
 living multitude beneath us, unite in shouting, " Long 
 live the Emperor." When the inmates of these dese- 
 crated tombs had life in their bodies, the same homage 
 was paid them by many who indulged in the savage 
 brutality of desecrating their graves. Thus has it 
 been from the beginning, and thus it will be to the 
 end of time. 
 
 The present Emperor is undoubtedly very popular, 
 
 but there is a vast multitude of Frenchmen, of the 
 
 Bourbon school, who regard him as an usurper, and 
 
 say no nation in the world is governed with such 
 
 19 
 
146 European Correspondence. 
 
 tyranny as France. The elective franchise is nomi- 
 nally extended to all, but those who are elected by the 
 people cannot even introduce a bill before the legisla- 
 tive body, without the sanction of the power controlled 
 by the Emperor. The press, which is a true index of 
 freedom of speech, has the eye of the censor on every 
 line written, before it is read by the people. All the 
 officers of this vast army of six hundred thousand 
 men are appointed by the Emperor. Napoleon III, 
 with all his faults, is doing a great deal for the 
 French nation. He knows the composition of his 
 people, and just how much liberty they can endure. 
 The Emperor encourages the division of the great 
 landed estates, and thus stimulates men with limited 
 means to become owners of the soil. I am sure that 
 the wealth of our own sunny South will be increased 
 by the adoption of the French system. Our large 
 landed proprietors must cut up their broad acres into 
 small farms, and invite foreign immigration, and make 
 it to the interest of the active laborers of the North, 
 East and West, to come South with their energy and 
 capital. 
 
 I have been struck with the uniformity of the archi- 
 tecture in Paris. The houses are substantially built 
 of free stone, often six and seven stories high ; they 
 frequently contain a family on each floor. 
 
 The hotels are numerous, and some are very fine. 
 The Grand Hotel is the largest in Europe, it has 
 seven hundred rooms, and seventy saloons. The 
 Hotel de Louvre has six hundred rooms. These two 
 mammoth hotels are owned by one company. I have 
 
European Correspondence. 147 
 
 divided my time between them, to learn their manage- 
 ment, and to see the vast multitude of English and 
 American travellers who frequent them. The French 
 are too careful of their money to pay eight francs for 
 a dinner, when they can get just as good for four. 
 They generally stop at the smaller hotels. The Paris- 
 ians are much more economical than the English or 
 the Americans. 
 
 You pay at the hotels a stipulated price for a room — 
 the charge being regulated by the flight of stairs you 
 have to climb. You can take your meals in the hotel, 
 restaurant, or wherever it may suit your convenience. 
 I engaged a room, according to the French count, on 
 the second floor, but found it located on the fourth. 
 I make it a rule now always to examine a chamber 
 before engaging it. 
 
 My travelling companions are both physicians, and 
 regard it as a great privilege to visit the hospitals in 
 Paris, as they are the finest in Europe. I tried to ex- 
 cuse myself from this part of my sight seeing ; but 
 my companions said that I would be much interested 
 in the surgical operations we should witness. Our 
 first visit was to one of the oldest hospitals in 
 France, established in the year 1012 — Hotel Dieu the 
 most ancient hospital in Paris. We were conducted 
 through a number of dark rooms, rather poorly venti- 
 lated, and having anything but an inviting appearance 
 to me, especially as I observed them bringing in a 
 good many sick persons on litters. The director of 
 the hospital informed us that there were several hun- 
 dred cases of cholera in the hospital, and that seventy 
 
148 Europe art Correspondence. 
 
 patients had died the day previous, and that no sur- 
 gical operations would be performed in the hospital 
 for fear of spreading the cholera. This information 
 quite astonished me, as the newspapers had not re- 
 ported any deaths by cholera. My curiosity was 
 satisfied, and I took French leave — that is to say, 
 without inquiring for any gratuitous courtesies. I 
 learn that the newspapers are not permitted to report 
 the cholera deaths. 
 
 I am much better pleased with the galleries of fine 
 paintings than with the hospitals. Of the many 
 things that my eyes have feasted upon during the 
 past fortnight, I have been most pleased with the mag- 
 nificent pictures and statuary. I shall not attempt to 
 go into a minute description of what I see in my 
 travels in Europe. I have not the time, as I am 
 occupied from morning often till late at night in visit- 
 ing the various objects of interest. A description of 
 the sights to be seen in Paris alone would make a 
 book — nay, many books. I do not propose, however, 
 to write one. 
 
 I shall leave here in a few days for the south of 
 France. From thence I shall go (D. V.) to Switzer- 
 land, Italy, Bavaria, Wurtemberg, Austria, Bohemia, 
 Saxony, Prussia, Hamburg, Holland and Belgium. 
 Returning to Paris, for a few days, I will then take a 
 peep at London, Manchester, Liverpool, Glasgow, 
 Edinburgh, pass through the Green Isle to Queens- 
 town, and then sail for sweet home ! I shall keep my 
 eyes, ears and heart wide open, and endeavor to give 
 your readers a brief account of what I see, and of 
 
European Correspondence. 149 
 
 how the cities, the country, the people, the govern- 
 ments, and things generally, look from my point. 
 The armistice between Austria and Prussia will afford 
 me a fine opportunity of visiting the Continent, and of 
 looking upon the great armies of a million and a half 
 of men, as they will remain in the field until the 
 armistice expires. During the armistice neither army 
 can change its position without written permission. 
 
 The general impression is, that the war in Germany 
 is ended. Napoleon III is understood to be very 
 unhappy ! '• 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Paris, August, 1866. 
 
LETTER SEVENTH 
 
 Railroad Ride from Paris to Lyons — Manufacture of 
 Wine — Lyons — French Revolution — Jacobin Cruelty 
 — Lyons Surpasses in Manufacture of Silk. 
 
 An express train from Paris to Lyons will convey 
 you in ten hours three hundred miles through a pic- 
 turesque and interesting portion of France. On this 
 route the soil is much better, and in a higher state of 
 cultivation than between Brest and Paris. I have 
 seen nothing in France to compare with the barren- 
 ness of poverty-stricken Brittany. There a traveller 
 looks in vain for neat and comfortable farm-houses. 
 The frequent wars in France made it necessary in the 
 early settlement of the country for the inhabitants to 
 live in villages. 
 
 The French are famous for clinging to old habits. 
 The farmers live in low houses ; the stables, cow-stalls 
 and pig-pens all within the same enclosure. Instead 
 of a neat flower-garden, a huge mass of manure is 
 piled up in front of the door. The people generally 
 look cheerless and comfortless, as though they found 
 it hard work to keep soul and body together. As 
 you approach a town, avenues of majestic poplars 
 line the splendidly macadamized roads on each side, 
 and you are prepared to find stately mansions. But 
 when you look at these trees, nearly a century old, 
 rising more than a hundred feet in the air, and then 
 
European Correspondence. 151 
 
 see the little squalid houses ten to twenty feet high, 
 surrounded by scrubby weeping-willows, you feel how 
 sudden is the descent from the sublime to the ridicu- 
 lous. 
 
 On our route we passed through Burgundy and 
 Champagne, the celebrated wine districts of France. 
 Near Dijon begins a chain of hills, about a thousand 
 feet in height. These are covered with vineyards 
 which ascend in rows on the sunny sides of the hills, 
 and spread along the table-land on the summit. The 
 vines are planted, in trenches two feet apart, and are 
 trained on poles three to four feet high. It is said the 
 quality of the grape improves with the age of the 
 vine. The young vines produce larger quantities, but 
 of inferior quality. An acre of ground will yield 
 about four hundred gallons of wine. Potatoes, clover, 
 grass and maize are interspersed with the vineyards, 
 and the cherry, prune, almond and walnut trees are 
 dotted over the fields. 
 
 For the making of red wine, grapes are thrown 
 into troughs and are trodden by men and women with 
 heavy wooden shoes till the grapes are broken. They 
 are then transferred to vats into which the juice of 
 the grape, as it ran from the treading press, had been 
 conveyed. Fermentation takes place generally in a 
 few days. As it slackens, the liquor begins to sub- 
 side, and, finally, sinks within the top of the vat. 
 The stalks and skins of the grapes float on the top. 
 The wine is then drawn off into large hogsheads and 
 barrels, but is not generally offered for sale until it is 
 two or three years old. 
 
152 t European Cofrcspondencc. 
 
 The champagne wine is made from a small but 
 extremely sweet grape. The preparation is much 
 more difficult and expensive than that of the ordinary- 
 wines. After the champagne is bottled, a second fer- 
 mentation is produced by putting into each bottle a 
 small solution of sugar candy dissolved in wine. The 
 bottles are closely watched and the temperature of the 
 air carefully regulated, often by the use of ice, to pro- 
 mote or check fermentation. It is said that at least 
 ten per cent, of the bottles burst from fermentation. 
 
 The high price of genuine champagne may be 
 accounted for by the loss from breakage, and the cost 
 of manufacture, and the immense demand for it. You 
 seldom see the Frenchman drinking champagne. The 
 cheap claret and beer are their constant drinks. When 
 the Parisian would drink champagne, he goes without 
 the walls, and then escapes the octroi, or municipal 
 duty, which doubles the price. 
 
 As we proceed south, we pass through a number 
 of fertile valleys filled with orchards and green pas- 
 tures, on which fine herds of cattle and sheep are to 
 be seen, and frequently immense flocks of geese and 
 ducks. You seldom see chickens around the farm- 
 houses ; but the splendid fat cow is the most com- 
 fortable looking animal in or out of the establishment. 
 
 And now we are in the beautiful City of Lyons. 
 Like our own City of Charleston, it nestles between 
 two rivers, the Rhone and the Saone. Lyons was 
 founded six hundred years B. C. Few cities possess 
 historical associations of such deep and thrilling inter- 
 est. Large silk manufactories were established here 
 
European Correspondence. 153 
 
 as early as 1450. It was here that in the sixteenth 
 century the Roman Catholics and Protestants carried 
 on a war, which was only exceeded in atrocity by the 
 French Revolution of 1793. At that period, Lyons 
 was the second city in France in size and population, 
 and superior to Paris in commerce and manufactures. 
 In 1793, the Jacobins, under Chalier, made an attack 
 on Lyons. The merchants and manufacturers united 
 with the royalists, and, after great slaughter on both 
 sides, were victorious. The notorious Chalier was 
 captured, and the guillotine, which he had sent from 
 Paris to destroy his enemies, was used in severing his 
 own head. 
 
 This only the more excited the Jacobins, who were 
 led on by such blood-thirsty men as Robespierre, 
 Marat, Collot d'Herbois, Fouche, and others. The 
 National Convention ordered Kellermann, commander 
 of the Jacobins, to concentrate his forces around 
 Lyons. The loyalists, priests, and royal families had 
 fled to Lyons from Paris, and from all quarters. The 
 city was under the command of Precy, who, with 
 thirty thousand citizens and refugees, gallantly de- 
 fended it for more than two months. Lyons was not 
 surrendered until forty thousand had perished by shot, 
 shell and fire. The royal forces were reduced to a 
 few thousand — their ammunition exhausted. Famine 
 and disease arrested the power of all further resist- 
 ance. Precy, with three thousand of his brave com- 
 rades, made their escape from the city, but were 
 pursued, and most of them slain. The total annihila- 
 tion of Lyons was decreed by the National Conven- 
 20 
 
154 European Correspondence. 
 
 tion, and faithfully carried out. It was ordered that 
 the very name of the city should perish, and it should 
 henceforth be known as the "Free City." A monu- 
 ment was erected amid the ruins, with the inscription, 
 "Lyons took up arms against liberty. Lyons is no 
 more." 
 
 The Jacobins, after the fall of the city, to further 
 enrage the soldiers, exhibited in the streets an urn 
 containing the ashes of Chalier — " Chalier," exclaimed 
 Fouche — "the blood of the aristocrats shall be the 
 incense we will offer you. We have sworn the peo- 
 ple shall be avenged, and all that vice and crime have 
 erected shall be destroyed. The traveller shall be- 
 hold in the ruins of this superb and rebellious city 
 naught save a few huts inhabited by the friends of 
 equality." 
 
 More than twenty thousand men were employed 
 for weeks in destroying Lyons. The prisons, dun- 
 geons, and cellars were filled to overflowing with the 
 citizens and the noble families who had taken refuge 
 in the city. The guillotine was kept at work night 
 and day, until the public square became so flooded 
 with human blood that the Terrorist chiefs, fearing to 
 rouse the sensibility of the people, decided on a 
 wholesale massacre. The prisoners were conveyed to 
 the opposite shore of the Rhone. As they marched 
 through the streets in chains to the place of execution 
 they united in singing, "To die for one's country is 
 the happiest and most enviable fate." They were 
 placed in long lines of a hundred each, and mowed 
 down with grape and musketry. Those who escaped 
 
European Correspondence. 155 
 
 immediate death were charged upon by the cavalry, 
 and with the horses' feet, sabre and pistol shots, were 
 slain to the last victim. Their bodies were thrown 
 into the Rhone. Thus perished the flower and youth 
 of Lyons, and those who had taken refuge from the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 The clergy, nobility, citizens and tradesmen — all 
 who opposed Jacobinism — shared a similar fate. The 
 reign of terror was at its height. Reason, religion 
 and justice had fled. The teachings of the Jacobins 
 were: that all things were admissible to those who 
 acted in the spirit of the revolution, (or the devil.) 
 From those who opposed them, life, property and 
 everything was to be taken. The rich were to be 
 stripped of their wealth, under the plea of replenish- 
 ing the National Treasury, i. e. their own lustful 
 carpet-bags ? All forms of worship were abolished. 
 The Roman Catholic was as obnoxious as a Protes- 
 tant. The Republican's God was his country ! 
 Fouche, on entering the city, issued the following 
 proclamation : 
 
 " All those who favored rebellion in any way, have 
 forfeited their heads to the block. If you are patriots, 
 you will be able to distinguish your friends — you will 
 sequestrate all others. Let no consideration stop you 
 — neither age, sex, or relationship. Take by force all 
 that a citizen has that is superfluous. For any man 
 to have more than he requires, is an abuse — extirpate 
 all forms of worship — elevate the temple of reason — 
 aid us in striking these great blows, or we shall our- 
 selves strike you." 
 
156 European Correspondence. 
 
 What a pity Brownlow and Butler, and too many of 
 their kidney, were not born in France, instead of 
 America. They are as full of the Jacobin spirit as 
 Robespierre or Fouche. There are men now living 
 in Lyons who witnessed the horrid massacre of 1793. 
 They have seen the beautiful city which was levelled 
 to the ground and the ploughshare ordered to pass 
 over its edifices, spring again into life and prosperity. 
 So may it be with the desolated cities of our own 
 dear South. 
 
 Lyons has now a population of three hundred 
 thousand, and is one of the most important commer- 
 cial and manufacturing cities of France. There are 
 eight thousand establishments for the manufacture of 
 silk, employing thirty thousand looms. In the manu- 
 facture of silk, Lyons surpasses every city in Europe. 
 The weavers are a boisterous set. In 1834 there was 
 a revolt among them, and the mob held the city 
 for several days. They were put down by the mili- 
 tary, but not until several thousands were killed. It 
 was found for a long time necessary to keep a stand- 
 ing army in Lyons of thirty thousand men, to 
 preserve order. A large number of the male operatives 
 have gone into the army, and the women have taken 
 their places at the loom, and are not so difficult to 
 manage. A commercial tribunal has been established, 
 composed half of masters and half of workmen, to 
 settle disputes respecting wages. This council has 
 been found to work well. 
 
 From the observatory you have a magnificent view 
 of the city and surrounding country. I was told we 
 
European Correspondence. 157 
 
 could see Mt. Blanc. There was, however, too much 
 smoke arising from the factory chimneys to see a 
 hundred miles in the distance. In Lyons I hear the 
 familiar buzz of mosquitoes and feel their pointed 
 attentions. I am thus keenly reminded of certain 
 precincts of my own sunny home. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Lyons, 1 866. 
 
 LETTER EIGHTH 
 
 Lyons to Strasburg — Manufactures in France— Cathe- 
 dral of Strasburg — Remarkable Clock — Pates de foie 
 gras — Mummies in Cathedral of St. Thomas. 
 
 From Lyons to Strasburg, you pass through many 
 fertile valleys, bounded by precipitous mountains of 
 considerable height. At Millhouse, I stopped a few 
 hours to look through that interesting manufacturing 
 city of sixty thousand inhabitants. Here I find large 
 warehouses filled with American cotton. Owing to 
 the ragged and soiled appearance of the bales, they 
 looked as if they had run the blockade. I doubt not 
 some of it was hidden away in the swamps of Carolina 
 and Georgia to escape the torch of Sherman's army. 
 
 Millhouse is one of the greatest manufacturing 
 cities in France. The mills are turned mainly by 
 water conveyed through canals from the River 111, 
 which flows in the suburbs of the city. The opera- 
 
158 European Correspondence. 
 
 tives do not live in houses near the factories, as with 
 us, but many of them come from small villages for 
 miles around, bringing with them their scanty meals. 
 The most of the mills are employed in the manufac- 
 ture of cotton prints and muslins. It is said that the 
 quantity of prints manufactured here exceeds that of 
 any other city in the world. The goods are of a very 
 superior quality, and have a fine reputation in Paris 
 and other large cities. There are a number of mills 
 for the spinning of cotton, but in this article they find 
 it difficult to compete with the English manufactories. 
 Here is a manufacturing town that labors under the 
 great disadvantage of having to transport the raw cot- 
 ton from America, three thousand miles by water, and 
 five hundred miles through France by rail, with the 
 further disadvantages of a great scarcity of coal and 
 wood. Our manufacturers have the raw material at 
 their very door — water, coal, and wood in abundance, 
 provisions cheap — and yet the cry is, protection ! pro- 
 tection ! The time will come when the Southern 
 States will become the great manufacturing districts 
 of the universe — cheap labor will find its way South 
 from the over-crowded States of the Old World. 
 What we want now is a united and stable govern- 
 ment — a government that will protect life, liberty and 
 property. It matters not so much whether we have a 
 King or a Democratic President, so that we have wise 
 rulers. Capital will go where it is protected and 
 yields the largest return. Scarcely a generation has 
 passed away since the first bale of cotton was shipped 
 from America to England. A hundred years will 
 
European Correspondence. 159 
 
 work wonderful changes in our great republic. The 
 North American States will drain Europe and Asia, 
 not only of their surplus population, but of the vast 
 wealth which has been for so many ages accumulated 
 there. 
 
 We are now at Strasburg. This was formerly a 
 German free independent city. Louis the XIV seized 
 it in time of peace and annexed it to France ; but this 
 unwarrantable act did not make Frenchmen of the 
 people of Strasburg. They look German and generally 
 speak the Ge'rman language thoroughly. French is 
 taught in the schools. 
 
 The greatest attraction in Strasburg is the cele- 
 brated cathedral with its lofty spire, on which busy 
 mechanics have been at work for six hundred years, 
 and have not yet reached the height of the ambitious 
 architect. The cathedral is one of the finest Gothic 
 edifices in Europe. Its spire is the highest in the 
 world. It is thirty feet higher than the pyramids of 
 Egypt, and one hundred and thirty feet higher than 
 St. Paul's, London. This is one of the church steeples 
 I did not have the courage to climb, as I was informed 
 people occasionally dropped through the open work, 
 falling a distance of some five hundred feet. The 
 bishops have found it necessary to issue many indul- 
 gences to procure money to build the " Notre Dame" 
 or Cathedral of Strasburg. The church is decorated 
 with some fine statues and numerous paintings. Its 
 extreme height has made it a mark for the lightning, 
 and it has been struck more than a dozen times. In 
 1654, the spire was entirely demolished by lightning, 
 
160 European Correspondence. 
 
 but was soon restored. In 1728, an earthquake came 
 near shaking it to the ground. Its stained windows 
 are beautiful. One of them is unusually large, being 
 fifty feet in diameter. In 1793, a year long to be re- 
 membered throughout France, the cathedral fell into 
 the hands of the Jacobins. They caused several hun- 
 dred statues of kings and saints to be cast into the 
 streets and river, and converted the church into an 
 arsenal and commissary store. The cut of the Jacobin 
 sabre is to be seen on many statues, paintings and 
 church altars, not only in Strasburg, but in Paris and 
 other cities. 
 
 In the cathedral is an astronomical clock almost as 
 celebrated as the tall spire. Three German professors 
 spent a lifetime in trying to perfect it, but did not 
 complete their work. It is called " the clock of the 
 three sages." This celebrated clock had racked the 
 brains of the German mathematicians for three hun- 
 dred years, and was finally perfected by Schwilgne, 
 who is now a resident of Strasburg. It shows the 
 hour, day of the week, of the month, the year, and 
 many church celebrations. Precisely at twelve its 
 full mechanism is set in motion. At that hour the 
 crowd is generally so great as to require the police to 
 preserve order. The figure of Death is surrounded 
 by four figures — representing the four ages of life. 
 Childhood strikes the first quarter — Youth the sec- 
 ond — Manhood the third, and decrepit Old Age the 
 fourth ; (on the Continent the clock always strikes 
 each quarter of the hour.) As Death strikes the 
 hours, Youth turns over the hour-glass that he holds 
 
European Correspondence. 161 
 
 in his hand. The twelve Apostles then make their 
 appearance, bowing before Christ, as they pass, one at 
 a time. Our Saviour lifts his hand to bless them. 
 During that time a cock, which is perched on the 
 right, flaps his wings and crows three times. Mr. 
 Schwilgne has recently added an ecclesiastic compute, 
 with all its indications, presenting also the revolu- 
 tions and eclipses of the sun and moon for an in- 
 definite time. As an intricate and fine piece of 
 workmanship, the old clock surpasses anything I 
 have yet seer.. Perhaps to the majority of Americans 
 it looks like an unnecessary expenditure of time and 
 labor. It proves, however, what skill and mechanism 
 can produce. 
 
 Strasburg is about as celebrated for its pates dc foie 
 gras, as for its tall spire and wonderful clock. The 
 pates are made from the livers of geese, which are 
 enlarged to an immense size by shutting the geese in 
 coops, too narrow to allow them to turn, stuffing 
 them three times a day with maize made into paste, 
 and steeped in sulphur water to increase the appetite. 
 
 The lager beer of Strasburg is very fine. The hop 
 from which it is made grows to a great height in the 
 valleys of the 111 and the Rhine. Our guide pointed 
 out the place where two thousand Jews were burned 
 in 1348. They were accused of having poisoned the 
 wells and fountains, causing the plague which deso- 
 lated the city about that time. For nearly a century 
 no Israelite was permitted to live or worship in the 
 town. Now every one is free to worship under his 
 own vine and fig-tree. Religious toleration is general 
 21 
 
1 62 European Correspondence. 
 
 throughout France. Those who choose to keep their 
 shops open and work on the Sabbath can do so. 
 A true Catholic never fails to go to mass on Sabbath 
 morning. Searching, stinging poverty makes it nec- 
 essary for the poor to labor on the seventh day of 
 the week. With us we make a great show in the 
 observance of the Sabbath, by requiring the stores 
 and places of business to be closed. A conscientious 
 Jew, who shuts his shop on his Sabbath, is also re- 
 quired to close on the Christian Sabbath, while the 
 mammoth railroads and steamships, employing thou- 
 sands of men and women, are permitted to run extra 
 trains on Sunday. This looks to me like straining at 
 a gnat and swallowing a camel. Perhaps the public 
 authorities are of the opinion that. corporations have 
 no souls to be saved or punished. 
 
 Strasburg is regarded as one of the strongest forti- 
 fied cities in France. The arsenal contains one hun- 
 dred and seventy-five thousand stand of arms and 
 one thousand cannon. There is an ordnance foundery 
 here, and one of the largest depots of artillery to be 
 found in France. The country around the city, 
 between the Rhine and the 111, can be laid under 
 water — thus rendering Strasburg almost unapproach- 
 able by an army. Louis Napoleon made an unsuc- 
 cessful effort to seize Strasburg in 1836. The River 
 111 runs through it, forming canals over which there 
 are numerous bridges to connect to different quarters 
 of the city. It is a place of considerable commerce, 
 and has numerous manufactories of cloth, linen, car- 
 pets, tobacco, beer and ale. It is connected with the 
 
European Correspondence. 163 
 
 Mediterranean and the Atlantic, by canals, and with 
 the North Sea by the Rhine. The city is surrounded 
 by a strong wall. At 10 o'clock the gates are closed, 
 after which neither ingress or egress is allowed. 
 
 We visited the Cathedral of St. Thomas (Protes- 
 tant) to see the monument of the famous Marshal Saxe, 
 erected to his memory by Louis XV. It represents 
 the Marshal descending to the grave, while France, 
 personified in a female figure, is endeavoring to detain 
 him, and at the same time to stay the threatening 
 advance of Death. In this church are deposited in 
 metallic coffins, covered with glass, two bodies said 
 to be those of a count and his daughter. It is a 
 disgrace to humanity to exhibit to strangers such 
 disgusting spectacles. When I was a boy, in the 
 mountains of Georgia, I rode twelve miles, on a cold 
 December day, to see a man hung up by the neck 
 until he was dead, dead, dead ! From that time to 
 this I have been haunted by the remembrance of that 
 poor fellow. I presume I shall be haunted the rest 
 of my life by the horrid Strasburg mummies. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Strasburg, August, 1866. 
 
LETTER NINTH. 
 
 Switzerland — Grand Scenery — Bath of Plcffcrs — Fatal 
 Accident to four Ladies — Coirc — Crossing the Alps 
 over a road hewn out by First Napoleon — Gorge of 
 Via Mala, Italy — Lake Como. 
 
 In extent of territory Switzerland is about as large 
 as the State of South Carolina, and is the oldest liv- 
 ing republic in the world. Surrounded by kings and 
 emperors on all sides, it is wonderful how she has 
 been able to maintain her republican form of govern- 
 ment. The framers of the American Constitution 
 must have copied extensively from that of Switzer- 
 land ; in many respects the laws, customs, and usages 
 of the two republics are the same. 
 
 The people of Switzerland are hardy, robust, indus- 
 trious and economical. The women, as in France, 
 work in the fields, artd make themselves useful as 
 well as ornamental. The peasants are more comforta- 
 ble and look happier than the same class in France. 
 They retain their ancient manner of dress, and live 
 upon oat-bread, milk and cheese. If a French peas- 
 ant visits Paris a few times she doffs her old costume, 
 and is next seen, especially on holy-days, in the gay- 
 est attire. The plain white handkerchief is supplanted 
 by a small cap worn on the back of the head, covered 
 with trinkets and brass embroidery, and a boddice 
 decorated with gay ribbons. 
 
European Correspondence. 165 
 
 The houses in Switzerland, although generally 
 small, look clean, and wear an air of freshness. 
 
 I had heard much of Switzerland, and was prepared 
 to find charming lakes, lovely valleys, and majestic 
 mountains, but the half had not been told. No coun- 
 try of the same extent in the world presents such a 
 diversity of appearance and climate. You look at 
 the long range of Alps, with frightful precipices cov- 
 ered with perpetual snow, and hundreds of glaciers 
 resembling so many seas of glittering ice, and at the 
 lower range of mountains green with forests of fir, 
 vines, flowers and grass, on which herds of cattle, 
 sheep and goats are to be seen grazing, watched by 
 the lonely shepherd boy and his faithful dog. Turn 
 your eyes and behold the verdant valleys, as they 
 nestle between the mountains with their crystal im- 
 petuous iced streams, as they come falling and dash- 
 ing thousands of feet over precipices and rocks from 
 the snowy regions ; and there you see the charming 
 lakes covered with steamers, conveying the delighted 
 traveller, and rich manufactures of the beautiful cities 
 that line their borders. All these sights, however 
 varied, are to be seen in the travel of a few days. 
 
 I spent four days in Switzerland, and thought I 
 had seen enough of its beauties, and was en route 
 for Austria, when at the Falls of the Rhine near 
 Schaff hausen — which an English writer compares to 
 Niagara, and which are about as far short of the Falls 
 of Niagara as Tom Thumb is of the Russian giant — 
 I accidentally met with Judge Aldis, of Vermont, and 
 his good wife, who were on their way to Pleffers, 
 
1 66 European Correspondence. 
 
 which they described as the most remarkable spot in 
 Switzerland. 
 
 I decided to accompany them. We sailed through 
 the Lake of Constance to Rorschalk. The Lake of 
 Constance is tame compared with other Swiss lakes. 
 Its peculiarity is that it is bordered by five different 
 States. In a sail of as many hours, your baggage is 
 examined by the customhouse officers of Switzerland, 
 Baden, Wurtemberg, Bavaria and Austria. From 
 Rorschalk we travelled by rail, arriving at Ragatz 
 about 9 o'clock, P. M. The hotels were crowded and 
 we found difficulty in getting accommodations. We 
 finally obtained comfortable quarters at Hotel Tamina, 
 where we met a party who gave such glowing de- 
 scriptions of the Pass of the Splugen over the Alps, 
 that we decided to go there also — thus taking me still 
 farther out of my route in the direction of Italy. 
 
 We arranged to be up at 5 o'clock next morning 
 and start for the Bath of Pleffers, two and a half miles 
 distant. We were nearly an hour in ascending the 
 steep mountain which afforded the wildest scenery — 
 arriving at the baths a little after sunrise. There are 
 two large buildings connected by a chapel a short 
 distance above the roaring Tamina. The narrow road 
 leading to the hot springs is grand beyond anything 
 I have seen. You pass through a mountain gorge a 
 quarter of a mile long, too narrow to admit the rays 
 of the sun. Only a small skirt of the sky is to be 
 seen, and in many places the mountain closes over 
 your head entirely. I could but think of the possi- 
 bility of a land-slide, which frequently occurs in these 
 
European Correspondence. 167 
 
 ravines, in which event we should be shut out from 
 the world quite too long for our comfort. At the 
 extremity of the narrow bridge you enter a tunnel 
 dark as a dungeon, which leads you to the hot springs. 
 The temperature is one hundred and twenty Fahren- 
 heit. In this smoking, hot, sulphurous cavern, you 
 feel as if you were not far removed from the gulf of 
 the region that burns with fire and brimstone. 
 
 The springs are celebrated for their medicinal qual- 
 ities, and visitors are attracted here from all quarters. 
 Formerly patients were let down from the cliffs of the 
 mountain by ropes into the baths. Living in them 
 night and day, they required neither fire nor blankets 
 to keep them warm. The road leading to the baths 
 is a very dangerous one. Only a few days since, as 
 four English lady travellers were descending the 
 mountains, their horses became frightened and dashed 
 over the steep precipice, dragging the unfortunate 
 ladies with them. They were instantly killed or 
 washed over the Falls of Tamina and drowned, the 
 driver escaping. Three of the bodies were found and 
 buried at Ragatz, near the monument of the German 
 philosopher, Schelling. The British chaplain had 
 great difficulty in getting permission to perform the 
 ceremony according to the ritual . of the Church of 
 England. The Roman Catholic authorities granted it 
 on condition that the cross should be carried before 
 the corpses. 
 
 It was said the government would take immediate 
 measures to remedy the unguarded state of the road, 
 but nothing has been done. You wind around the 
 
1 68 European Correspondence. 
 
 mountains over deep precipices without the slightest 
 protection. The wonder is that more accidents do 
 not occur. Our driver dashed down the mountain as 
 though we were in the most secure road. I did not 
 feel at all comfortable until we reached the plain. 
 
 From Ragatz we went by rail to Coire, the termi- 
 nus of the railways leading into Italy. Coire is an 
 old Roman town of six thousand inhabitants. The 
 bishop's palace and the quarters occupied by the 
 Roman Catholics are walled around and closed by 
 gates, it is said to keep out Protestants. In most of 
 the old palaces and cathedrals on the Continent you 
 are shown pieces of the original cross (?) on which our 
 Saviour was crucified. I suppose those who have 
 charge of these precious relics have told the story so 
 often that they now really believe it. 
 
 In 1799 a great battle was fought at Coire between 
 the French and the Austrians. The Austrian army 
 was surprised by the rapid movements of the French 
 and was defeated. Young Napoleon commanded the 
 French ; his ambition led him across the Alps into 
 Italy ; but there being no roads at that time over 
 which he could pass, he put thirty thousand soldiers 
 at work, and, in a few months, was able to take his 
 triumphant army across the Alps into Italy. 
 
 At Coire we hired a coach drawn by four horses 
 to carry us to the Pass of the Splugen. The verdant 
 valleys abound in fine scenery, and are covered with 
 good pastures, orchards, and moderately comfortable 
 farm houses. The high mountains, to the right and 
 left, look like so many huge banks of snow. In the 
 
European Correspondence. 1 69 
 
 little village of Reichenau our guide pointed out the 
 cottage in which Louis Phillippe (late King of the 
 French) took refuge during the revolution. He 
 entered the town on foot with a pack on his back in 
 1793. Royalty at that period was greatly below par. 
 It was temporarily "played out" in France, if not 
 elsewhere. The young Frenchman was employed as 
 a teacher of French history and mathematics. While 
 residing here his mother was banished from France 
 and his father fell under the Jacobin guillotine. 
 
 On the brew of the green hills are to be seen 
 numerous tenantless castles, relics of glorious old 
 days. I visited a few of them to see the remains of 
 the fallen splendor of the feudal aristocracy who 
 were driven from the castles by the peasants they 
 had so long oppressed. 
 
 Through this portion of Switzerland you have a 
 mixed population of Germans, Italians and French, 
 speaking as many languages as there are nations. 
 German is taught in the schools. We arrive at Zillis, 
 where we get dinner and change our jaded horses for 
 four mountain ponies, and also change our coach for 
 one suited for crossing the Alps. The valley of the 
 Rhine is closed by the mountains, and we now com- 
 mence our assent over the Alps through the gorge of 
 Via Mala. Language fails to describe the awful 
 scenery met with on all sides. Just imagine your- 
 self in a narrow road hewn out of the mountain sides 
 — you look upward at the almost perpendicular rocks 
 and cliffs hanging over your head, three thousand feet 
 high, and beneath you into a chasm one thousand feet 
 22 
 
I jo European Conrspondcnce. 
 
 deep, so narrow on each side as to be spanned by a 
 suspension bridge, which is hung from mountain to 
 mountain like a spider's web, five hundred feet high, 
 over the rushing, roaring Rhine; the river being fre- 
 quently lost to sight in the depth of the chasm beneath. 
 Before reaching the summit we cross four suspension 
 Bridges. This road seemingly so perilous, is yet 
 more secure than that of Pleffers. 
 
 The scenery descending into Italy is almost as wild 
 and grand as through Via Mala. You pass water- 
 falls several hundred feet high, and through narrow 
 fertile valleys until you reach Lake Como, which is 
 said to be one of the most charming lakes in Italy. 
 
 As I travel through this part of the world — old 
 they call it, but all new to me — with my eyes, ears 
 and heart open all the time, looking at its magnificent 
 scenery, its long range of lofty mountains, its old 
 quaint houses, its kingly mansions, its peasants in their 
 simple costume, and its princes clothed in their rich 
 robes; milch cows driven in carts by Swiss and 
 Italian dames, with a few bushels of oats to be ground 
 into meal to feed the hungry children of their mother's 
 numerous household; at the cataracts as they come 
 dashing down the rugged mountains; the green 
 fertile valleys filled with gentle lakes, flowers, fruits 
 and flocks; at the faithful shepherd dog as he keeps 
 the old widow's goat (which to her is milk and bread) 
 on her plantation of a hundred square feet — all these 
 make pictures which are indelibly impressed on my 
 heart — pictures stored away in memory to be called 
 up when I shall have grown weary, or when misfor- 
 
European Correspondence. 171 
 
 tune or cruel war takes from me the means of travel. 
 Here I have locked up securely in my bosom a rich 
 album, filled with pictures more beautiful than 
 Raphael's or Rubens's, because they are the work 
 of the great and sovereign Master Architect. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 LETTER TENTH. 
 
 Basle — Geneva — John Calvin — Arrival at Munich — 
 Stopping by Mistake with the King — Fine Accom- 
 modations — Artists Encouraged in Munich — Royal 
 Bronze Foundery — Monument of Son of Josephine in 
 Church of St. Michaels. 
 
 Basle which is within a short distance of the French 
 and German lines, was the first city I entered in 
 Switzerland. In wealth and population it ranks next 
 to Geneva. The Rhine divides the city, but it is 
 united by a fine bridge and small ferry boats. 
 
 Basle has several cotton and paper mills, and ribbon, 
 muslin and other manufactories. It carries on consid- 
 erable trade, and does a large banking business. 
 A few hours run by rail and by steamer on the lake, 
 brings us to the pretty City of Geneva, on the Rhone, 
 which has a population of fifty thousand. Geneva is 
 the largest city in Switzerland, and the great thorough- 
 fare for travellers from Paris to Italy. Its delightful 
 climate and good society attracts foreigners. Geneva 
 
\J2 European Correspondence. 
 
 has the largest foreign population of any city in 
 Switzerland. It was the home of the celebrated John 
 Calvin, whose religious doctrines have found their 
 way to all parts of Christendom. Calvin was elevated 
 from an itinerant preacher to Dictator of the Republic, 
 and it is said he ruled the Democracy with an iron 
 rod. Those who entertained and preached anti-Calvin- 
 istic doctrines, were punished in the most cruel and 
 summary manner. 
 
 During the French revolution the city and territory 
 of Geneva fell into the hands of the French, and was 
 made a department of France under the name of 
 Leman. After the expulsion of the French in 1814, 
 it was annexed to Switzerland. Geneva is celebrated 
 for the manufacture of watches and jewelry. There 
 are made here more than one hundred thousand 
 watches per annum. 
 
 The Lake of Geneva is the largest in Switzerland, 
 and possesses some fine scenery, but not equal to that 
 of Lucerne and Brienz. These lakes are small, but 
 their surroundings are charming. Interlaken is the 
 Saratoga of Switzerland. Here you meet the gay and 
 fashionable from all quarters. 
 
 I must bid adieu to Switzerland and its beauties, 
 and pay my respects to the German Fatherland. On 
 my way to Munich,. I inquired of a gentleman for the 
 best hotel in Munich, and was told the Hotel of the 
 Four Seasons was the finest in Germany — "equal to 
 a palace." I arrived about 9 o'clock at night; was 
 tired and had fallen asleep. The conductor awoke me 
 for the ticket. I jumped into a carriage, with my eyes 
 
European Correspondence. 173 
 
 scarcely open, and requested the coachman to drive 
 me to the Hotel of the Four Kings. "Yah! Yah!" 
 he replied, and drove me through long winding streets, 
 finally stopping at what I supposed to be the hotel. 
 I passed the Bavarian soldiers who were marching in 
 front of the door, rung the bell, and out stepped two 
 porters in livery. They ushered me into a large room 
 filled with pictures, portraits, and fine furniture. I 
 thought it was rather a queer looking hotel, but quite 
 coming up to my friend's description, being equal to 
 a palace. I ordered supper, and told them to be in a 
 hurry, as I had eaten nothing since breakfast. I was 
 leisurely taking my tea, when a gentleman entered 
 the room and apologized in broken English for the 
 absence of the King! said he was on a visit to the 
 mountains for a few weeks, but the secretary would 
 receive any message or communication for his majesty. 
 I discovered that I was in the King's palace instead 
 of a hotel, and had to get out of this pleasant little 
 difficulty in the best way I could. I regretted the 
 absence of his majesty, pulled out my passport, 
 stretched out the American eagle, giving my papers 
 as much the appearance of official documents as 
 possible, folded them with great care, and requested 
 the porter to order a carriage and I would go to the 
 hotel. 
 
 At Basle, Switzerland, I had stopped at a very fine 
 hotel called the Three Kings. I associated the two 
 hotels, and asked for the Four Kings instead of the 
 Four Seasons — perhaps a very natural mistake. On 
 the Continent the first-class hotels are generally finer 
 
1/4 European Correspondence. 
 
 and handsomer buildings than the palaces. The 
 palaces and all public buildings are also called hotels. 
 The carriage was announced as being ready, and you 
 may imagine my surprise to find that it was from the 
 royal stables. Coming as I did from the palace, I 
 was ushered into a large room, opening into an 
 elegant saloon, and was waited upon with marked 
 attention. I began to feel the advantage of associating 
 with royalty. On arriving in a city it is my custom 
 to request the landlord to engage a carriage and 
 guide for me, so as to lose no time in visiting the 
 various places of interest. My host, instead of 
 employing a one-horse cab — such as I generally use 
 when alone — engaged a splendid carriage drawn by 
 two horses, with liveried driver and footman, and 
 the guide was also in uniform. I thought as I had 
 started out on a grand scale in Munich, I might as 
 well go through with it. I never had so little trouble 
 in getting access to the various places I desired to 
 visit. I could but laugh as I drove through the 
 streets of Munich in such style, the people staring at 
 me — little dreaming they were looking at a poor 
 subjugated rebel ! I was glad there were no Americans 
 in Munich. I have not seen an American or English 
 traveller in two days. They have not yet ventured 
 into the war territory. My aristocratic equipage and 
 fine apartments cost me fifteen dollars in gold, which 
 was quite cheap, considering the style in which I 
 moved. My meals were served in my room. I left 
 Munich as quickly as possible, quite satisfied with 
 my experience in high life. 
 
European Correspondence. 175 
 
 When the Prussians came like an avalanche through 
 Hanover and Soxony into Bavaria — walking over the 
 Bavarians as though they were Mexicans — the King 
 grew nervous and fled to the mountains; hence his 
 absence when I called upon him. I had the pleasure 
 of seeing his pretty mother, who, judging from her pic- 
 ture, was a beauty when young. She looked at me 
 as though she thought I was a Prussian after her son, 
 Maximilian II. The late King Louis is still alive, but 
 does not reside in the palace. He is a poet and artist, 
 and to him the magnificent metropolis of Bavaria is 
 indebted mainly for its splendor and prosperity. He 
 encouraged the fine arts, and collected galleries of the 
 finest paintings in Germany. More than a thousand 
 artists reside in Munich. I was shown by an artist 
 long lists of paintings purchased by the Allstons, 
 Chisolms, Horlbecks, Rutledges, Pinckneys, and other 
 South Carolina names. I saw many of these pictures 
 shortly after the fall of Charleston, carted in govern- 
 ment wagons through the desolate streets of the Queen 
 City, destined for the North, and transferred to gov- 
 ernment transports. On whose walls do they now 
 hang? 
 
 The palace in Munich has a fine collection of paint- 
 ings and statuary. One of the paintings struck me as 
 typifying the king; the difference, however, is that 
 Joseph is represented as fleeing from a woman, when 
 the King is only running from the men. 
 
 I was much interested in the Royal Bronze Foundery. 
 Most of the statues erected in Germany of late years 
 are cast here. In the foundery I saw the statues of 
 
176 European Correspondence. 
 
 Washington, Patrick Henry, Jefferson, Madison, Henry- 
 Clay, Thos. H. Benton, Horace Mann, and others. 
 Also, models of the new Capital at Washington, and 
 the State House at Richmond, with its memorable 
 motto, " Sic Semper Tyrants." The sight of this 
 brought to mind the crazy Booth and the late unfor- 
 tunate President Lincoln. 
 
 The Bavaria, which was cast here in bronze, is a 
 female figure nearly one hundred feet in height. It 
 represents the protectress of Bavaria, accompanied 
 by a lion; a stairway leads up into its head, which is 
 large enough to hold six persons. There are a num- 
 ber of fine churches and cathedrals in Munich. The 
 "Church of our Lady" is, perhaps, the handsomest. 
 The son of Josephine and step-son of the first Napo- 
 leon, Eugene, Duke of Leuchtenburg, was buried in 
 the handsome church of St. Michaels, and a suitable 
 monument erected over his grave. He married a 
 daughter of the King of Bavaria. 
 
 I go from Munich to Vienna, and hope to visit the 
 great battle-field of Koniggratz. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Munich, Bavaria, August, 1866. 
 
LETTER ELEVENTH 
 
 Vienna — Disgraceful Defeat of the Anstrians — Pnissian 
 Needle-Gun — Strength of the Austrian and Prussian 
 Armies. 
 
 All Europe is surprised at the sudden and disgrace- 
 ful defeat of Austria — especially when her numerical 
 strength is considered, and the character which her 
 soldiers have always maintained for bravery and skill 
 in warfare. Austria has a population nearly double 
 that of Prussia, and the States which allied themselves 
 with her were capable of furnishing a respectable 
 army. Bavaria alone can muster one hundred thou- 
 sand brave soldiers. Wurtemburg is a State of con- 
 siderable power. The Bohemians and Hessians have 
 the reputation of fighting like tigers, and the Han- 
 overians are noted for their skill and bravery ; the 
 Saxons also have a high reputation. Some persons 
 attribute the failure to the terror of the Prussian 
 needle-gun, and its superiority over the weapon used 
 by the Austrians. The odds were always three or 
 four to one against them, even when their numbers 
 were equal. Many attribute the failure to a want of 
 efficient generals and a more thorough organization. 
 The Austrian army was made up of such a variety of 
 troops and races of men, that it often occurred that 
 soldiers serving in the same company were unable to 
 understand each other's speech and word of command. 
 23 
 
178 European Correspondence. 
 
 So far as I can judge, after a free intercourse with 
 men and officers, whose States had allied themselves 
 with Austria, there is a religious and political element 
 that has had much to do in bringing about the failure 
 in the great battles fought in Bohemia the last of June, 
 and the decisive battle of July 3d, which is compared 
 in Europe only to the battle of Waterloo. The Gov- 
 ernment of Austria is thoroughly Roman Catholic 
 and aristocratic, while that of Prussia is Protestant. 
 Besides, their ruler, although a king, was at the head 
 of his army with his two sons, in the thickest of the 
 fight — thus endearing himself and government to the 
 people. The Protestants and Republicans are quite 
 content to be under the great Protestant Prussian 
 Government. If the people of Austria had been 
 united, as were the Southern Confederates, they never 
 could have been conquered. The Prussian system of 
 making every man in the kingdom a soldier, I may 
 say an educated soldier, gave them from the beginning 
 of the war three hundred thousand men in line of 
 battle, which were rapidly marched into Hanover and 
 Saxony, and were followed in quick succession by 
 fresh battalions, batteries, etc. General Benedek pre- 
 tended to have three hundred thousand or four hun- 
 dred thousand men in the field, when he really did 
 not have an army of one hundred and fifty thousand 
 efficient soldiers. There is no doubt the majority of 
 the people in the States, adhering to Austria, were 
 opposed to the war, and, of course, the soldiers were 
 anything but united. Benedek talked of marching 
 upon the Prussian capital. The first thing he knew 
 
European Correspondence. 179 
 
 the Prussians were thundering at the very gates of his 
 capital. The long lines of entrenchments around 
 Vienna, show that his soldiers were employed in 
 throwing up breastworks to defend their imperial city, 
 instead of marching into the heart of Prussia. 
 
 In Bohemia the Prussians united their forces ; and 
 although the Austrians fought with great bravery, 
 until some twenty thousand of their men lay bleeding 
 on the battle-field, yet they were overpowered and 
 crushed by the superior forces of the enemy. Proud 
 Austria is humbled in the very dust — her prestige is 
 gone, and her bitter enemy, Count Bismark, glories 
 in her shame. The great Prussian Minister was, a few 
 months ago, the most unpopular man in Germany, but 
 success, with its magic power, has placed him among 
 the first men of Europe. In his sudden elevation he 
 even eclipses the renowned Emperor of the French. 
 "Nothing succeeds like success," Talleyrand says. 
 Success makes friends, and Prussia will ultimately 
 absorb Germany. The majority of the small States 
 will gladly take shelter under her victorious banner ; 
 they are heartily sick of the multitude of petty kings 
 and princes, who have for so many years ground them 
 to poverty, in keeping up their own splendor and 
 extravagance. Of course nobility will die hard, espe- 
 cially when reduced to oat bread and straw beds. 
 
 From Munich to Vienna you pass through a beau- 
 tiful country. The scenery in some of the valleys 
 and mountains, to one not just from Switzerland, 
 would be considered grand. Over a portion of the 
 route through Bavaria, a traveller is struck with the 
 
180 European Correspondence. 
 
 odd appearance of the tall white houses, filled, like a 
 pigeon's nest, on every side with diminutive windows; 
 but, to an American, a more novel sight is that of a 
 Bavarian belle ploughing with a milch cow. "Brin- 
 dle" supplies the family not only with butter, milk 
 and cheese, but also with bread. 
 
 The cars were crowded with the military, and 
 hundreds of the poor sick and wounded soldiers were 
 trying to reach their homes ; many of them were 
 accompanied by their wives and parents. The cholera 
 prevails throughout the camps, and many of the poor 
 fellows who escaped death on the battle-field, are fall- 
 ing victims to this terrible disease. 
 
 Vienna is situated in the valley of the Danube, 
 about two miles from the river, and is one of the finest 
 cities in Germany, with a population of six hundred 
 thousand. Of course I found everything in the- 
 greatest confusion here ; the citizens have not recov- 
 ered from their fright caused by the unexpected and 
 near approach of the Prussians, whose roaring cannon 
 can be heard without difficulty in the city. There is 
 no material change in the position of the two great 
 armies of a million and a half of men, since the cessa- 
 tion of hostilities. There is no danger of a renewal 
 of the conflict at this time. I was told by one in 
 authority that peace would be declared in a day or 
 two ; that the terms had been agreed upon, and would 
 be promulgated very soon. Thus ends what the 
 French style the great "seven days' war." 
 
 The hotels are crowded with sick and wounded 
 officers. As each officer is attended by half a dozen 
 
European Correspondence* 181 
 
 common soldiers you may judge of the comfort in the 
 hotels. I have not seen, in a journey of five hundred 
 miles, an English or American traveller. The railway 
 will be open for civilians in a day or two. The Aus- 
 trian soldiers, whose uniform is gray, like that of the 
 Confederates, are a splendid looking set of men. Of 
 course they look and feel deeply humiliated at the 
 result of the war; they seem calm and determined, 
 but are full of wrath and indignation. I imagine 
 under this quiet stream dark and turbid waters flow, 
 which will some day be poured out upon the proud 
 Prussians like a mountain avalanche. 
 
 The great Austrian Empire, with a splendid country 
 and forty millions of brave people, may for the time 
 submit to being ruled out of the German Confederacy 
 — but they will not live long under the disgrace which 
 now overwhelms them. Her mechanics are already 
 at work on the needle-gun, which will be found as 
 terrible in the hands of a revengeful Austrian soldier 
 as in that of a Prussian. I drove for miles through 
 the Austrian camps, and was struck with the discipline 
 and order that prevailed among the men. I have not 
 seen a drunken soldier, and I may add civilian, since 
 my arrival in Europe. The people all drink wine and 
 beer, but they don't get drunk. They smoke, smoke, 
 smoke ; but few of them chew tobacco — gentlemen 
 never. The rations issued to the soldiers appear to 
 me to be of inferior quality ; the dark, hard loaf of 
 oat and rye bread is loaded into the wagon like so 
 many brick, and thrown upon the ground — not even 
 protected from the dirt by plank. 
 
1 82 European Correspondence. 
 
 The fields and gardens for miles around the fortifi- 
 cations are uncultivated. In a few of the fields I 
 noticed that the ploughshare had just taken the place 
 of the cannon. The long miles of zigzag trenches and 
 fortifications proved to be of about as much use as 
 those built around the Queen City of the South — but 
 not defended quite as long. The Emperor and 
 Empress of Austria, who, by the way, are a very 
 handsome couple, reside in Vienna. They say the 
 Emperor was so shocked and surprised when he heard 
 of the defeat at Konigratz that he fainted. The peo- 
 ple were very much deceived. The Austrian officers 
 had been sending accounts of great victories. Some 
 of the dispatches are quite amusing. Benedek tele- 
 graphed the Emperor during the action at Skolitz, as 
 follows : 
 
 " Eight in the Morning. — The action is commencing ; 
 pray to God ! 
 
 Noon. — The battalions are wavering ; pray to God ! 
 
 Four in the Afternoon. — The Prussians are beaten ; 
 return thanks to God ! " 
 
 The royal palace is large, but not an imposing 
 building in appearance. The interior, however, is 
 very grand, and decorated with splendid paintings 
 and statues. The main court was built nearly seven 
 hundred years since. I do not think we have 
 improved much in the fine arts or in architecture since 
 that period. I got a permit to visit the apartments of 
 the imperial family. One of the rooms contains a 
 series of nearly one hundred stone landscapes, beau- 
 tifully decorated with various mosaic stones, inlaid, 
 
European Correspondence. 183 
 
 which are said to have cost an immense sum of money. 
 In another apartment is a rich cabinet of minerals and 
 crown jewels. There is also here one of the largest 
 collections of coins and medals to be found in Europe. 
 In walking through these magnificent courts, you 
 could not suppose they were the apartments of an 
 almost bankrupt court. As you step out of these 
 splendid halls, with your eyes filled with the glitter 
 of diamonds and gorgeous furniture, the first object 
 that attracts your attention is a poor Austrian woman 
 staggering under a hod, loaded to its utmost with 
 brick or mortar, which she is carrying to a petticoat 
 mason who is engaged in rearing the magnificent 
 range of buildings which are in course of erection 
 in Vienna. 
 
 The women here not only cultivate the soil, furnish 
 soldiers for the army, but they are converted into 
 master mechanics. All this is the result of the fre- 
 quent wars and large standing armies this Old World 
 is cursed with. Ah, Mother Eve, when you yielded 
 to the soft, beguiling whispers of the cunning, insidi- 
 ous serpent, you little dreamed of the endless woes 
 and misery you were entailing on you race. In pain 
 and sorrow you brought forth your first born, only to 
 have a brother's blood crying to God from the ground. 
 These German hills and valleys are still moist with 
 the gore of mingled blood from the sons of a common 
 fatherland; and alas! the trail of the Old .Serpent is to 
 be seen in the New World, and the crimson streams 
 which flowed from the death wounds of myriads of 
 our countrymen, are indelible stains on the hands of 
 
184 European Correspondence. 
 
 those who slew them, and a reproach to civilization, 
 humanity, and Christianity. God forbid that such 
 scenes should ever be witnessed again in the land 
 that claims to be " the land of the brave and the home 
 of the free." 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Vienna, Austria, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWELFTH 
 
 Visit to the Battle-field of Konigratz — Temble Effects 
 of War both in the Old and Nciv World — Prague 
 filled with Soldiers and Cholera — Declaration of 
 Peace between Prussia and Austria. 
 
 Having received permission to pass through the 
 Austrian lines, I left Vienna on the first train that ran 
 over the newly repaired roads, which had been de- 
 stroyed by the Austrians in their retreat from Bohemia. 
 I was anxious to visit the renowned battle-fields, and 
 to see the great Austrian and Prussian armies which 
 are spread over the country mainly from Vienna to 
 Prague. 
 
 An hour from Vienna by rail, and we entered the 
 camps of the victorious Prussians. After a careful 
 examination, I cannot discover much, if any, difference 
 between the Austrian and Prussian soldiers. I imagine 
 that the latter are a little taller and stand more erect ; 
 this slight difference may be accounted for in the pres- 
 ent position of the two armies — the Prussians are 
 
European Correspondence. 185 
 
 flushed with victory, while the Austrians are crushed 
 by defeat. If the latter were placed in the same cir- 
 cumstances, and dressed in blue instead of gray, I 
 doubt whether even a German could perceive any 
 difference. They both are under fine discipline, march 
 with even front and steady tramp, and are generally 
 large, fine-looking men, with great breadth and depth 
 of chest ; the firm muscles in their arms and chest 
 made me envious of their superior physical develop- 
 ment. They possess great strength and wonderful 
 power of endurance. Their training and their bracing 
 climate doubtless have much to do in promoting both. 
 
 The militia of Prussia are very different looking 
 men when compared with the same class of soldiers 
 in America. They are called here Landwehr levies, 
 and are generally older and better educated than the 
 regular soldiers, and have received three years' train- 
 ing, and are just such trustworthy soldiers as a general 
 takes delight in commanding. The Prussian system 
 in organizing and training in peace is, perhaps, supe- 
 rior to that of any nation in Europe ; and while it 
 gives them able and efficient men, always ready for 
 line of battle, it obviates the necessity of keeping up 
 such large standing armies as are to be found in 
 France and Austria, and which are such moths upon 
 the public treasury. I spent nearly two days in the 
 camps and on the battle-fields, and saw quite enough 
 of soldiers to satisfy me for a twelve-month. 
 
 A portion of the journey had to be performed in 
 very indifferent carriages, and the accommodations 
 were not such as I had been accustomed to in Munich 
 24 
 
1 86 European Correspondence. 
 
 and other favored localities. There is much more 
 cholera in Bohemia than any place I have yet visited ; 
 the soldiers and people are dying at a fearful rate. 
 The Austrians, in their retreat after the last great 
 battle, burnt the bridges and tore up the railways. I 
 saw hundreds of women, many of them delicate girls 
 of fifteen to eighteen, working on the railroads which 
 had been destroyed by the men. I have come to the 
 conclusion that a woman on the Continent is a very 
 useful animal, and she is appreciated by the men in 
 proportion to her physical endurance. It is evident 
 that the position of the women in Europe, especially 
 on the Continent, is very different from that of the 
 American ladies. With us, we have no women ; they 
 are all ladies ; and the humblest has her eye on the 
 White House at Washington, and stands a good 
 chance of being the President's Queen. I think I can 
 see why it is that women are appreciated here, only 
 when they want the fields tilled, the houses built, and 
 sons for the army. But I am now writing about bat- 
 tle-fields. At another time I shall write a chapter for 
 the benefit of the women of Europe, and tell them of 
 the great American Eden, where the women are 
 appreciated by the men for their social and intellect- 
 ual worth, and where it is not a misfortune to be born 
 a mother's daughter instead of a father's son. The 
 blackened chimney stacks which line the road between 
 Chlum and Konigratz are miniature representatives 
 of Sherman's desolating march from the Savannah to 
 the Congaree ; here the houses were burned when the 
 two great armies of nearly half a million of men were 
 
European Correspondence. 187 
 
 engaged in battle. In Carolina the work was delib- 
 erate ; the torch was applied when the only weapon's 
 of defence were a widow's tears, and the shrieks of 
 orphan children. But what respect has the hyena 
 for tears, age, or sex ? 
 
 Sherman's "bummers " were worse than the fiercest 
 hyenas that roam in the savage forests of Africa. 
 They even tore the dead from their resting place in 
 search of spoils, desecrating churches and graveyards. 
 The roadside here is lined with knapsacks, tattered 
 caps, belts, cartridge-boxes, bayonets and sheaths; 
 the poor fellows who so recently wore them lie 
 beneath the long range of fresh mounds which line 
 the hills and valleys. Men and horses were piled in 
 trenches by the thousand, and were imperfectly 
 buried. The odor arising from them is horrid, and 
 beyond endurance. No wonder that nearly every 
 house you pass has been converted into a hospital, 
 with a white flag hung over the door. The houses 
 are filled with the sick and wounded of both armies, 
 attended by the Austrian and Prussian surgeons. 
 
 If any one has a doubt about the utter depravity of 
 the human family, let him visit a battle-field, where 
 myriads of his fellow-creatures have been butchered 
 by their neighbors and relatives, and thrown into long 
 trenches, with horses and mules, only a cross here 
 and there to denote that the bodies of those who 
 recently possessed immortal souls are mingled in this 
 mass of putrefaction. The widow searches for the 
 grave of her husband, the mother for her only son, 
 and they find the vultures preying upon their car- 
 
1 88 European Correspondence. 
 
 casses, and the peasants dressed in the clothes that 
 were worn by the husband and the son when they 
 bade adieu to home never to return again. 
 
 These are no fancy pictures! Would to God they 
 were. But one need not come to Europe to look 
 upon scenes like these. The past five years' history 
 of our own country will furnish scenes equally horrid 
 and revolting. Soldiers were thrown into prisons at 
 the North to freeze, and into pens at the South to 
 starve. When a torpedo would explode under a ship, 
 sending hundreds of men unprepared for eternity to 
 the bottom of the ocean — when the battles that sent 
 most souls to eternity were fought, these events would 
 furnish occasion for extra prayer-meetings and Chris- 
 tian exultations. Christian (?) ministers could see the 
 hand of God in all these things. The hand of God ! 
 Merciful Father deliver us from the teachings of such 
 men ! It is horrid butcheries like these that elevate 
 States into proud kingdoms, and make a Bismark, 
 who was detested by his own countrymen, the most 
 popular man in Europe. 
 
 I found the City of Prague, which is the capital of 
 Bohemia, full to overflowing. The Prussian officers 
 occupy the hotels from cellar to garret. I was so 
 fortunate, after waiting a couple of hours, as to secure 
 lodgings in a bath room, sleeping on a Prussian army 
 bed. I intimated to my landlord that he must be 
 doing a fine business, seeing that he had such a full 
 house. He shrugged his shoulders, shook his head, 
 and, glancing his eyes around to see if any of the 
 officers were near, cursed and abused the Prussians in 
 
European Correspondence. 189 
 
 a shocking manner. I could excuse the poor fellow 
 for being angry when he informed me that he had 
 been boarding one hundred officers for more than a 
 month without receiving one dollar of compensation ; 
 and what added to his wrath was the fact that the 
 officers made out their own bill of fare, often ordering 
 articles that, in a country overrun by war, it was 
 almost impossible to procure. 
 
 The cholera is epidemic here, and I am anxious to 
 leave for Dresden, but the military hold the railways. 
 I visited the palace, which is now occupied by the 
 Prussians ; also the cathedral, the museum, Loretto 
 Chapel, and last, though not least, the ancient Jewish 
 Synagogue, which is a thousand years old; it looks 
 antique, damp and dingy enough to have been fast- 
 ened to Noah's Ark. I have not seen just such a 
 place of worship in Europe. The dark, wet dungeon 
 of the synagogue, among coffins and skeletons, is not 
 far short of the Strasburg mummies. If a man can 
 spend five minutes in such a place and not have the 
 cholera, I think he is proof against it. Speaking of 
 cholera, one of our passengers, an Austrian officer, 
 was attacked yesterday. He was attended by a 
 Prussian surgeon, who manifested as much interest, 
 and was as attentive as if he had been his own brother. 
 We had to leave the poor fellow in a small town ; 
 the doctor stopping with him. When the paroxysm 
 would occur, he would be drawn almost double ; his 
 sunken eyes and pale cheeks made him look as if he 
 were not long for this world. Severe cases of cholera 
 often terminated fatally in a few hours. I made an 
 
190 European Correspondence. 
 
 effort to leave Prague for Dresden on the 1 o'clock 
 train. For the first time the California application 
 failed. Just as the agent had the permit written, and 
 we were about to exchange civilities, a Prussian 
 officer stepped in, and our acquaintance ended. The 
 glad tidings that a treaty of peace between Prussia 
 and Austria was signed at Prague, have been promul- 
 gated since my arrival at Bohemia. This news, which 
 is good to all the civilized world, doubtless reached 
 the New World before it was published in Prague. 
 " Peace and friendship shall prevail in future and 
 forever between his Majesty King of Prussia, and his 
 Majesty the Emperor of Austria, their heirs and 
 successors, their States and subjects." Thus reads 
 the first article. For the sake of humanity I hope it 
 may never be violated. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Prague, Bohemia, 1866. 
 
LETTER THIRTEENTH 
 
 Detained in Prague — Review of the Seven Days' 
 War — Met Russell, the Correspondent of the Londo)i 
 Times, on the Battle-field — Arrival at Dresden — 
 Beautiful City — Fine Paintings. 
 
 I was detained longer in Prague than I bargained 
 for. Many travellers regard it one of the handsomest 
 cities in Germany. Perhaps if I had been comfortably 
 situated, and there had been less cholera, I should 
 have enjoyed the visit more. My guide was a stupid 
 fellow; the accommodations miserable; the city smoky 
 and dirty, the people looked cross, being quite dis- 
 pleased with the treatment they received at the hands 
 of the Prussians. In Germany very few families have 
 what we call in America, guest chambers, and they 
 are not prepared to entertain company ; but that made 
 very little difference with the Prussians. Every estab- 
 lishment was assessed ; the lady of the mansion was 
 not consulted as to how many soldiers should be 
 billeted on her premises. The officers looked at a 
 house and quartered three, five, ten or more, accord- 
 ing to the size of the house. An accomplished and 
 finely educated lady told me that she had to go into 
 the kitchen and cook for half a dozen soldiers 
 for more than a month. She thought cooking for 
 friends was not a very pleasant occupation, but she 
 considered roasting her pretty face over a hot fire for 
 
192 European Corresponde?ice. 
 
 an enemy was quiet unendurable. She said, however, 
 that the soldiers, almost without exception, conducted 
 themselves with the utmost propriety, often assisting 
 in cooking, and made the situation of the family in 
 which they were billeted as comfortable as could be 
 expected under the circumstances. American fami- 
 lies who were keeping house in Germany were required 
 to take their quota of soldiers just the same as the 
 native citizens. 
 
 The Landwehr battalions (militia) have been march- 
 ing out of Prague. In a few days they will be per- 
 mitted to return to their homes ; they are only called 
 upon when their country is engaged in war. The 
 more I look on the battle-field of the "seven days' 
 war," the more my surprise increases at the sudden 
 defeat of the Austrians. In Bohemia they had the 
 selection of their position, were protected by fortifi- 
 cations and an extensive forest, behind which were 
 posted two hundred thousand brave and well disci- 
 plined soldiers. The position of Chlum seems to 
 have been the key coveted by the Prussians, which 
 was taken and lost by the soldiers under Crown 
 Prince eight times before they were masters of it. 
 When this position was secured, the Austrians had 
 the enemy in the rear, and they began the retreat in 
 which they suffered so heavily. 
 
 It is said the greater part of the Italian regiments 
 which defended Chlum went over to the Prussians 
 shouting "viva Garibaldi." One thing is yery certain, 
 the Italians fought bravely or they could not have 
 retaken a position that had been lost seven times. I 
 
European Correspondence. 193 
 
 think they must have gone over to the Prussians after 
 the Austrians began their retreat. In the great battle 
 which ended the war, the Prussians had united their 
 forces under Prince Frederick Charles and Crown 
 Prince, which gave them two hundred and fifty thou- 
 sand men. They made both a front and flank attack. 
 When the Crown Prince broke their line at Chlum 
 the victory was won. The loss of the Prussians was 
 about fifteen thousand, while that of the Austrians 
 was forty thousand. Eighteen thousand of the latter 
 number, however, were taken prisoners. Just think 
 of thirty-seven thousand men, in a battle of only a 
 few hours, either killed or wounded. Prussia has, 
 almost from the beginning of the war, subsisted her 
 army at the expense of the enemy. She marched 
 her troops with great rapidity into Saxony, Hanover, 
 Hesse, Bodelen, Bavaria and Wurtemberg. In addi- 
 tion to the heavy foraging, Prussia has made a cash 
 levy on Austria and her allies, amounting to nearly 
 one hundred million of dollars. She also gets the 
 immense territories she has annexed, for nothing. 
 Was there ever so much gained by any other nation 
 in a " seven days' war ?" I left Prague for Dresden 
 in a slow night train, but I was glad to get away even 
 in a freight car. Russell, of the London Times, came 
 on the same train. He had just returned from the 
 battle-field in Bohemia, and was not feeling very well ; 
 his courier bored me to death with horrid cholera 
 cases. According to his account, we had to leave 
 one-half of our passengers on account of "awful 
 attacks of cholera." 
 25 
 
194 European Correspondence. 
 
 I had my eyes wide open, and saw only a few cases 
 on our route from Prague to Dresden. Russell says 
 that had the contest between the Prussians and Aus- 
 trians continued, it is probable the cholera would have 
 commanded an armistice — that even now its ravages 
 are dreadful. He thinks there are at this time fifteen 
 thousand Austrian prisoners suffering from illness of 
 various kinds, and the Prussians in Bohemia are also 
 suffering severely. If the troops had been marched 
 in masses, during the summer months, in the low 
 grounds around Vienna, or in Hungary, the pestilence 
 would have been frightful. 
 
 Russell says, that on his route from Paroubitz to 
 Prague, he sat on boxes marked " cholera cure," and 
 was surrounded with cholera patients. He regarded 
 some of the passengers a little nearer the end of their 
 journey than others. There are at this time thirty 
 thousand to forty thousand in the Prussian hospitals 
 under treatment. Oh, the horrors of war ! For every 
 soldier it strikes down, it matters not how humble he 
 is, there is a mother, wife, sister, or child that feels 
 the blow. When Prince Frederick Charles passed 
 over the battle-field, and saw the poor, wounded sol- 
 diers by thousands crawling to the brook to drink 
 water and die, he exclaimed, "What an awful sight! 
 how dreadful war is after all !" Yes, war is a dread- 
 ful thing. Oh, that our country may never again be 
 cursed with the horrors of a civil or a foreign war ! 
 
 Is Dresden one of the sweetest places in the world, 
 or is it the change from the heart-sickening scenes on 
 the Bohemia battle-fields ? I am quite sure I never 
 
European Correspondence. 195 
 
 enjoyed a change more. Mr. Russell's courier went 
 ahead of us and engaged rooms. It was, however, 
 quite unnecessary, as we had a splendid hotel pretty 
 much to ourselves. Thus far there are very few 
 American or English travellers in Germany. The 
 mass of the Prussian soldiers were farther south. Mr. 
 Russell spoke of his visit to the South shortly after 
 the fall of Sumter, when the Confederate heart beat 
 high with the belief and hope of the success of the 
 cause. He made inquiries respecting the welfare of 
 Petigru, King, Gadsden and Grayson, and seemed dis- 
 tressed when I told him they were all dead ! 
 
 Dresden is the capital of Saxony, and has a popu- 
 lation of one hundred and forty thousand, mostly 
 Protestants, but the reigning sovereign is Roman 
 Catholic. Few cities in the world are as attractive as 
 this beautiful capital. Here you find a genial, bracing 
 climate, good society, the finest educational advan- 
 tages, and sufficient objects to gratify the taste and 
 curiosity of the most fastidious traveller. I was bet- 
 ter pleased with the Dresden picture galleries than 
 any I have seen on the Continent. Of course they 
 are not in extent equal to the Louvre at Paris, but 
 according to my taste the selection is better. Here 
 you find some of Raphael's best ; his Madonna is the 
 finest painting I ever beheld, and is the gem of the 
 gallery. It is thought to be one of his best, and 
 executed in his most masterly style. I also find in 
 Dresden many paintings from the hand of my favorite 
 artist, Rubens. His fondness for painting fat ladies 
 almost in a nude state is at first rather shocking to 
 
196 European Correspondence. 
 
 Americans. I have seen charming paintings of Ru- 
 bens' representing the Holy Family, and others rep- 
 resenting spirited battle scenes. 
 
 From the old bridge over the Elbe you have a fine 
 view of the city and the valley of the Elbe. It was 
 originally built with money received for the sale of 
 indulgences for eating butter and eggs during Lent. 
 The Cathedral or Court Church is a fine building. It 
 is connected with the palace by a bridge thrown over 
 the street. The music cannot be surpassed. It is under 
 the supervision of the director of the opera, who merely 
 transfers his band from the royal theatre to the royal 
 Catholic Church. I attended high mass, and was 
 charmed with the music. The congregation adjourned 
 from the church to the beautiful flower gardens on the 
 Elbe, where the rest of the day is spent in dancing and 
 amusements. The Catholic Germans are as fun-loving 
 as the gay and light-hearted French. They are as 
 prompt at church on Sabbath morning as they are at 
 the ball-room on Sabbath evening. The Protestant Ger- 
 mans are more rigid in the observance of the Sabbath. 
 
 The Prussians are throwing up fortifications with 
 rapidity all around Dresden. The military governor 
 has issued orders for eight thousand workmen to 
 complete the fortifications in Saxony. Saxony may 
 nominally be free, but she will be as much a depend- 
 ent of Prussia as Bohemia is of Austria. I think the 
 Protestant Saxons will be quite satisfied to have a 
 change in rulers. The Prussian army has pretty well 
 stripped Saxony of cattle, horses and provisions ; but 
 such is the fate of war. G. W. W. 
 
 Dresden, September, 1866. 
 
LETTER FOURTEENTH 
 
 Arrival in Berlin — Captured by Napoleon in 1806 — 
 Sight of King William and his Prime Minister, 
 Count Bismark — Martin Luther and the Reforma- 
 tion — Germans Light-hearted, Merry and Economi- 
 cal — German System of Education superior to that 
 of all Nations. 
 
 I am now in the capital of the great Prussian 
 kingdom — once the home of Frederick the Great. 
 Of course I felt more than an ordinary interest in visit- 
 ing this city of victorious generals. Shortly after 
 leaving Saxony, you enter a flat, sandy country ; in 
 many places the land is too poor to produce even the 
 most meagre heath. A traveller is surprised to find 
 here one of the finest and most prosperous cities in 
 Germany, with a population of six hundred thousand. 
 Berlin, with its broad, parallel streets, bounded by 
 magnificent houses, reminds me more of Philadelphia 
 than any city I have seen in Europe. Its large 
 squares, splendid palaces, churches and other build- 
 ings, are scarcely to be equalled. The royal palace 
 and museum contain a rich cabinet of paintings, 
 medals, statues and other curiosities. The city is 
 encircled by a wall fifteen miles in circumference, 
 which was being levelled to the ground at the veiy 
 time when Benedek was threatening to march his 
 army into Berlin. The late improvements in artillery 
 
198 European Correspondence. 
 
 render these ancient fortifications of little value. The 
 city has a flourishing trade, growing mainly out of 
 its manufactures of cotton, wool, silk, Prussian blue, 
 cutlery, and the like. The fact of its being the capital 
 of a great nation, adds much to its wealth and pros- 
 perity. The city has communication, by water, both 
 with the Baltic and German Oceans. 
 
 The inhabitants are accused of always being on a 
 spree. Perhaps it is because they live on the River 
 Spree, and the pun may be permitted to a traveller. 
 In 1806 Napoleon captured the city, and held a grand 
 court in the royal palace. The Triumphal Arch, 
 with numerous fine paintings, were sent by Napoleon 
 to Paris, but nearly all were restored in 1 8 1 5 , and the 
 old " Arch" stands now proudly in its former position. 
 I was anxious to see King William and his Prime 
 Minister. This was not difficult, as the king could be 
 seen almost any day driving out with his young 
 queen. Count Bismark has a tremendous head, and 
 looks as savage as a Russian bear. He has the repu- 
 tation of being one of the most unscrupulous politi- 
 cians in Europe. He is, however, a diplomatist of 
 the first order. If Bismark is permitted to make a 
 few more territorial strides, he will quite absorb the 
 Fatherland. England and France are very jealous of 
 the unprecedented success of the Black Eagle, and 
 will do all in their power to stay its territorial flight. 
 Austria is quite ruled out of Germany, and it will be 
 many long, long days before she regains her former 
 position. The Double-headed Eagle is crippled, but 
 not dead ; far from it. 
 
European Correspondence. 199 
 
 The great revolution or reformation of Martin 
 Luther has been steadily advancing for three hundred 
 years. The revolution resulted in the re-establish- 
 ment of the principles of early Christianity. Luther 
 laid down the broad doctrine that all power is derived 
 from God; and that a man is justified before God by 
 faith in Christ independently of priestly factorship. 
 In Germany, those who are opposed to the Roman 
 Catholic Church are called Protestants ; but it does 
 not follow, because a man is opposed to Romanism 
 that he is a Christian, or even a believer in the Chris- 
 tian religion. Myriads of the Germans are transcen- 
 dentalists. At the beginning of the present century, 
 the German Empire was composed of three hundred 
 distinct and independent States, divided into ten 
 circles; each little State was weighed down by nu- 
 merous petty royal families, to be supported in their 
 extravagance andjjselessness by an overtaxed people. 
 
 The French Revolution wrought many changes in 
 Germany. After the downfall of Napoleon there was 
 a reorganization of the German States ; they were 
 reduced to thirty-eight States and one empire, which 
 constituted the Germanic Confederacy, with Frankfort- 
 on-the-Main for its capital. The Confederation had a 
 standing army of four hundred thousand men ; fifty 
 thousand were regiments of cavalry. It was a coali- 
 tion of sovereigns, pledged to sustain each other on 
 their thrones, which at that period were tottering. 
 Austria and Prussia, with their allies, had a popula- 
 tion twice as numerous as that of the United States, 
 situated in the centre of Europe. When united, they 
 became an irresistible power. 
 
200 European Correspondence. 
 
 The Germans, as a nation, are devotional, if not 
 religious. They are light-hearted, merry and fun- 
 loving. They are industrious, economical, energetic, 
 and the outside world thinks them very stubborn. 
 When Napoleon III wanted a few feet of their terri- 
 tory, merely to straighten old lines, he found them 
 particularly so. They go from church to the public 
 gardens, where they engage in music and dancing, 
 which amusements are enjoyed equally by rich and 
 poor. The Germans are noted for their economy. 
 This trait in their character is carried to such an extent 
 that, in the sight of the prodigal Americans, it looks 
 like stinginess. They allow nothing to go to waste. 
 You see the women gathering the sweepings of the 
 public roads, which they transfer to their little farms 
 and gardens. Land that has been in cultivation for so 
 many ages is only kept alive by constant applications 
 of manure and fertilizers. Every foot of ground is 
 forced to its utmost in producing food for the millions 
 who inhabit the Old Country. I wish these thrifty 
 Germans could be transferred, by thousands, to our 
 own slovenly cultivated farms; every inducement 
 should be offered to encourage them to emigrate to 
 the South. I was surprised to see so much land 
 devoted to pasturage ; this is found necessary, not 
 only to rest the land, but to produce food for the im- 
 mense herds of cattle, sheep and horses. A good 
 farmer changes the crop nearly every year ; the soil 
 would soon become exhausted if a rotation of crops 
 was not observed. In many places in Germany to- 
 bacco is cultivated with great success. The wheat 
 
European Correspondence. 201 
 
 and oat crops seldom fail ; the " Irish " potato is a 
 favorite vegetable, and principal food in some sections ; 
 the beet, turnip, cabbage and carrots are cultivated 
 extensively. The hop and grape vineyards flourish, 
 but not so well as in France. Manufactures in nearly 
 every branch prosper, from the fact that the Germans 
 work cheaply and make honest goods. 
 
 I have drank many a glass of common beer as an 
 excuse to see the domestic arrangements of a German 
 cottage. The interior of their homes is much more 
 comfortable than the exterior appearance would indi- 
 cate. The necessity of keeping the cow-stall, pig-sty, 
 and hay-stack within a few yards of the dwelling gives 
 the surroundings rather a filthy appearance, but you 
 nearly always find in a peasant's house neat beds, 
 with white linen sheets and well scrubbed floors. The 
 children are taught to read, in fact required by law to 
 learn to read. The schools are conducted under 
 State regulations, and only thorough teachers are 
 employed. The German system of education is 
 thought to be superior to that of all other nations. 
 Prussia excels in education and a general diffusion of 
 knowledge. Berlin takes the lead for a high order 
 of accomplishments, but it is a much more expensive 
 place than Dresden, Dusendorff or Hanover. I prefer 
 Dresden to any city I have seen in Germany as a 
 place of residence and for educational advantages. 
 There you have all the opportunities for the acquisi- 
 tion of languages, music, fine arts and other accom- 
 plishments, which are desired by Americans who 
 send their children abroad to be educated, The 
 26 
 
202 European Correspondence. 
 
 German system of education is very thorough; the 
 climate gives to boys a robust constitution and fine 
 physical developments, which are quite as valuable in 
 future life as superior intellectual endowments. 
 
 The peasants have their annual festivals, which are 
 generally observed after harvest, and are enjoyed by 
 them to the fullest extent. These dances partake 
 something of the character of the Indian festivities 
 that used to take place in the mountains of Georgia 
 when I was a wee, wee boy, and when the red man 
 was lord of the mountain and valley. It was Nature's 
 children offering up thanks to the Great Spirit for a 
 bountiful harvest of green corn and a plentiful supply 
 of wild game. These feasts were generally opened 
 by a ball play of the most exciting character. Fifty 
 young warriors were engaged on each side, in almost 
 a nude state, and painted in the most fantastic man- 
 ner. One of the chiefs would throw up a buckskin 
 ball, when the war-whoop would be raised and a gen- 
 eral rush made for it. In the scramble a leg or 
 arm would sometimes be broken; but that circum- 
 stance did not interfere with the game. The green 
 corn dance was the richest and wildest scene. 
 There the squaws took their part. After the white 
 man had introduced whiskey among the natives, 
 scenes of disorder and bloodshed would often occur. 
 I have seen the Cherokee squaws, when under the 
 influence of liquor, fight and pull each other's raven 
 locks in the most frightful manner. The last I saw of 
 these poor creatures was when the United States Gov- 
 ernment had hunted the families down to the number 
 
European Correspondence. 203 
 
 of some ten thousand, and assembled them in the 
 mountains of the Blue Ridge, preparatory to their 
 removal to the far West. This was in the summer of 
 1834. 
 
 I shall never forget the heart-rending scenes that 
 occurred on that occasion. The Indians have a super- 
 stitious reverence for the graves of their ancestors, 
 and many of them preferred death to quitting their 
 homes. In their effort to escape they hid in the 
 mountain caverns, and climbed the lofty forest trees. 
 Orders were given by the United States officers to 
 level the trees to the ground, regardless of consequen- 
 ces. Some four thousand of these poor creatures 
 perished, never reaching the homes destined for them 
 west of the Mississippi River. These outrages were 
 perpetrated on the Indians under the plea of advanc- 
 ing civilization and Christianity ! It was the strong 
 oppressing the weak. Thus it has been from the 
 beginning, and thus it will be to the end of time. 
 When Gabriel sounds his trumpet at the last day, and 
 the great book of records is opened, there will be a 
 vast multitude crying for the hills and mountains to 
 hide their evil deeds. 
 
 Please excuse this digression ; I frequently wander 
 back from the Old to the New World. This is not 
 strange, for my life's history is in the latter. The 
 scenes of my boyhood in the sweet vale of Nacoo- 
 chee, and in the lofty mountains of the Blue Ridge, 
 where I hunted the fox and the deer, the wolf and 
 the bear, the wild turkey and pheasant, and where I 
 learned my alphabet in the rude log cabin, with the 
 
204 European Correspondence. 
 
 black-eyed Indian damsels — these wild scenes made a 
 deep impression on my young heart, and I often find 
 myself unlocking, even in this grand old country, my 
 own little storehouse of American memories. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Berlin, Prussia, September, 1866. 
 
 LETTER FIFTEENTH 
 
 Berli?i — Monument of Frederick the Great — Palace of 
 Charlottcnhoff — Birthplace of the great Naturalist, 
 Baron Von Humboldt — Arrival in Old Hamburg. 
 
 The stirring events of the past few months add 
 much interest to the great Prussian metropolis. I 
 spent two days in Berlin, and regretted that the time 
 at my command would not allow me a week in this 
 interesting city. The Prussians are an enterprising 
 nation. Whatever they undertake must be executed 
 on a grand scale, and thoroughly. I have seen no 
 where in my travels a more striking monument than 
 that erected to the memory of Frederick the Great. 
 It is true, they have been slow in offering this tribute 
 to one to whom they are so much indebted for their 
 greatness. Frederick was to Prussia what Washing- 
 ton was to the United States. He was both a hero 
 and a statesman, and is regarded as the Father of his 
 Kingdom. The monument in all its proportions is 
 
European Correspondence. 205 
 
 splendid. The horse on which the king majestically 
 sits is a noble looking animal, seventeen feet in height. 
 The entire monument is some fifty feet high. The 
 bronze pedestal is of huge dimensions, and is raised 
 on blocks of beautifully polished granite. The entire 
 monument consists of at least forty figures, and, as a 
 work of art, it has never been excelled in Europe. I 
 drove through a beautiful grove of trees, that would 
 do credit to an American forest, to the Palace of 
 Charlottenhoff, situated a few miles from Berlin. The 
 buildings, although fine, will not compare with the 
 dazzling palaces of the city. 
 
 The site of the palace is good — standing, as it does, 
 in a park beautifully ornamented with trees — the 
 growth of centuries. The walks are lined with orange 
 and choice shrubs ; but there is a stillness and want 
 of life in the old palace, and I felt as if moving among 
 scenes of days long passed away, while I really stood 
 in the home of living monarchs. The marble statues 
 scattered through the park have a dingy appearance ; 
 they look like neglected monuments in a deserted 
 churchyard. The most interesting spot in these 
 grounds is the mausoleum, in which the late King 
 Frederick III and his queen lie interred. Except that 
 of Napoleon's in Paris, these tombs are the finest I 
 have seen on the Continent. The lay figures are 
 exquisitely cut in pure white marble. The soft and 
 delicate blue light admitted from the dome of stained 
 glass adds greatly to the beauty of the monuments. 
 The queen was quite young when, in 1806, Napoleon 
 entered as conqueror of Berlin. She was a clever 
 
206 European Correspondence. 
 
 and spirited woman, and Napoleon suffered in the 
 estimation of the Prussians in consequence of his 
 treatment of their favorite queen. She died at the 
 early age of thirty-five, while Frederick lived to the 
 age of seventy-two. No traveller should leave Berlin 
 without visiting these magnificent monuments. 
 
 In one of the public squares are exhibited a large 
 number of cannon captured recently from the Aus- 
 trians. The Royal Botanical Gardens in Berlin are 
 not as extensive as those in Paris, but the exotics, 
 which grow in mammoth glass houses, interested me 
 very much. The environs of Berlin, with their hand- 
 some private dwellings and magnificent public parks 
 and pleasure grounds, filled with beautiful trees and 
 flowering shrubs, surpass anything I have yet seen in 
 Germany. Villas and summer-houses for refresh- 
 ments are scattered through these parks. Under these 
 grand old trees rich and poor assemble to listen to 
 the music or mingle in the dance. Berlin was the 
 birthplace of the most distinguished naturalist the 
 world has ever produced — Baron Von Humboldt. 
 He was a great favorite with the sovereigns and peo- 
 ple of Germany ; and his name is universally honored 
 both at home and abroad, for his vast acquirements, 
 attained by extensive travel, research and study. His 
 mind was clear and active even at the advanced age 
 of eighty-four. No man of his day possessed such 
 general information, or had seen so much of the hab- 
 itable globe. His great mind grappled with and 
 comprehended nearly every department of human 
 knowledge. He was eminently a working man. He 
 
European Correspondence. 207 
 
 knew the value of time, and that knowledge was only 
 to be acquired by toil, and it is said that he seldom 
 slept more than four hours out of twenty-four. When 
 this ripe scholar had reached the age of three-score- 
 and-ten, full of glory and renown, it seems that he 
 might well have rested from his labors ; but not so. 
 He was as diligent in scientific research at eighty as 
 at any former period of his life. Would that the 
 young men of our country, whose ambition it is to 
 retire from business at forty — to live a life of ease and 
 idleness — would study the life and imitate the bright 
 example of the great Alexander Humboldt. 
 
 I left Berlin early in the morning. A few hours by 
 the "lightning express," and I find myself in the 
 quaint, and to me deeply interesting old town of 
 Hamburg. In the new town are splendid streets, with 
 magnificent buildings and royal palaces, while the old 
 is composed of narrow streets and alleys, filled with 
 a population of the poor. I explored one of these 
 alleys, where I found the people even more degraded 
 than in the " Five Points" of New York. I proposed 
 to rny guide to accompany me. He declined upon 
 the plea that gentlemen did not visit such places. 
 Just imagine a street six feet wide, with houses on 
 each side from four to six stories high, to say nothing 
 of the cellars beneath, all of which are occupied, each 
 room frequently accommodating two or more families. 
 
 These narrow streets are several hundred yards in 
 length, and what adds to the filthiness and discomfort 
 of the buildings, is that there is in each but one mode 
 of ingress or egress. The dirty, half-clad women 
 
208 *. European Correspondence. 
 
 stared at me, the smut and grease dripping from their 
 black faces. The squalid children held out their 
 hands, begging for coppers. I stopped to take a peep 
 into alley No. 2, when my guide assured me the 
 small-pox and cholera were raging there. I had seen 
 enough of poverty and wretchedness, and had no 
 desire to extend or prolong my visit to such an atmos- 
 phere. I inquired of a physician in reference to the 
 health of these dirty alleys, and he informed me that 
 the mortality was not greater here than in the best 
 portions of Hamburg. I was surprised to find in 
 one of the richest cities on the Continent so much 
 poverty and degradation. The children who are born 
 and reared in these dismal courts, or the Five Points, 
 New York, are no more affected by the polluted air 
 they breathe than are the rats which infest these 
 haunts of filth ; but, as immortal beings, they must 
 needs be corrupted by the loathsome associations and 
 corruptions which surround them. 
 
 Hamburg is one of the oldest of the free cities of 
 Germany ; it invites the rich commerce of the world 
 to enter its magnificent harbor, almost free of duty. 
 Immense cargoes of merchandise are discharged from 
 vessels that lie in the middle of the stream into small 
 barges ; these are rowed to the warehouses at less 
 expense than if the goods were landed at the docks 
 from the ships. I drove along the banks of the river 
 looking at the miles of shipping, and was surprised 
 to see no docks ; but when I witnessed the facility 
 with which the great cargoes were transferred, by 
 means of lighters, to the storehouses, the absence of 
 
European Correspondence. 209 
 
 docks was explained. Here you find ships from 
 nearly every nation. The star-spangled banner, as it 
 waved proudly over the fine American ships, sent 
 an electric shock through my veins — for the first time 
 in my wanderings I felt home sick. To a citizen of 
 the United States there is something grand in the 
 Stars and Stripes. It is a flag that commands the 
 respect of all nations. The gigantic war through 
 which we have just passed has proved to the world 
 that the States, when united, form an irresistible 
 power, and are not to be trifled with, either on land 
 or sea. May our great republic for all time to come 
 cultivate peace, friendship and amity. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Hamburg, Germany, 1866. 
 
 27 
 
LETTER SIXTEENTH 
 
 Hamburg — Fine Port — Destructive Fire in 1842 — Cap- 
 tured by the French in 18 13 — Merchants' Exchange. 
 
 The famous old town of Hamburg, which it is said 
 was founded by Charlemagne in the eighth century, 
 has the finest commercial port on the continent of 
 Europe, and in many respects is the most interesting 
 of all its cities. It is situated on the River Elbe, sixty 
 miles from its entrance into the North Sea, and is 
 connected by means of its canals with the Baltic. 
 Hamburg has a population of two hundred and fifty 
 thousand. It is eminently a commercial city. The 
 imports amount to one hundred and fifty million 
 dollars per annum, and the exports are about the 
 same. The average number of vessels arriving annu- 
 ally is about five thousand. Nearly all the imports 
 and exports of Northern Germany pass through Ham- 
 burg. In 1842 the city was visited by a terrible fire, 
 which raged for four days, laying waste twenty 
 thousand houses, rendering homeless more than 
 thirty thousand people. Large sums of money and 
 provisions were sent from all quarters of the globe 
 to relieve the sufferers. After the great fire the 
 narrow streets were both widened and straightened, 
 and magnificent storehouses and dwellings erected 
 which would do credit to Paris. The established 
 religion is Lutheran, but all denominations are tol- 
 
European Correspondence, 211 
 
 erated. Twenty thousand Jews reside here. The city 
 was formerly encircled by a wall four miles in circum- 
 ference, which has been torn down, and beautiful 
 ornamental walks have been laid on the site of the 
 old useless fortifications. 
 
 At the beginning of the nineteenth century Ham- 
 burg was one of the most prosperous cities in the 
 world. Merchants flocked here from all parts of 
 Europe, bringing with them immense treasures, 
 which they vainly hoped would be secure from the 
 warlike commotions at that time agitating the country. 
 As Hamburg was a free city, and neutral in religion 
 and politics, they thought it would not be molested. 
 But when Napoleon captured Berlin, and was master 
 of Prussia, he regarded the rich town of Hamburg as 
 a rightful spoil of war. Heavy contributions were 
 laid on the inhabitants, and the city was annexed to 
 the French Empire. 
 
 After Napoleon's unfortunate march to Moscow 
 the French were compelled to evacuate Hamburg, and 
 the city was occupied by Russian soldiers. In 1813 
 the French again besieged the city, which they cap- 
 tured after a month's resistance. The French com- 
 mander, Davoust, is said to have exercised the 
 most cruel atrocities upon the people. In the depth 
 of winter he drove every person from the city who 
 could not furnish six months' supply of provisions. 
 The consequence was that all the poor had to leave, 
 and some twelve hundred men, women and children 
 perished from cold and hunger. A monument has 
 been erected to their memory. Napoleon was, no 
 
212 * European Correspondence. 
 
 doubt, one of the greatest generals the world ever 
 produced, but I would not, for all his glory and fame, 
 have the blood of the myriads of human beings who 
 perished under his ambitious tread staining my skirts. 
 He deluged Europe in tears and blood. 
 
 I have visited the Stock and Gold Exchange of 
 Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York and Boston ; the 
 celebrated Bourse of Paris, and those of Vienna and 
 Berlin ; but none of them interested me so much as 
 the Merchants' Exchange of Hamburg. The mag- 
 nificent building, which was completed just before the 
 fire in 1842, although enveloped in flames, fortunately 
 escaped destruction. I went with my guide an hour 
 before 'Change, to have time enough for looking 
 through the whole establishment. One of the direc- 
 tors explained to me how a merchant in a crowd of 
 five thousand could be found without difficulty. The 
 immense hall, which is capable of accommodating six 
 thousand persons when standing, is laid out on the 
 principle of the radii of a circle. At I o'clock we 
 took our stand in the gallery, among numerous 
 spectators, both ladies and gentlemen, where we 
 could look down upon the vast assemblage of mer- 
 chants. The hum of five thousand human voices 
 sounded like the roaring of a waterfall. In this 
 daily gathering of merchants you find the cautious, 
 frugal German ; the bold, dashing Russian ; the 
 lively, clever Frenchman ; the confident English- 
 man; the sharp, shrewd Yankee; and last, though 
 not least, the cautious, lively, bold, confident, cun- 
 ning Jew. 
 
European Correspondence. 213 
 
 I was introduced into the extensive reading room, 
 which is supplied with newspapers and journals from 
 all parts of the country. The Exchange is the centre 
 of intelligence, commercial and political, foreign and 
 domestic. A telegraphic office is kept in the building 
 for its use. Scarcely any one is engaged in business 
 who is not a member of the Bourse of Hamburg. 
 The old city, fortunately, was an ally of Prussia in the 
 recent war. She has, consequently, been permitted 
 nominally to maintain her independence. 
 
 Having spent two pleasant days in Hamburg, I 
 left for the City of Hanover by railway. The country 
 through which we passed was quite level, and gener- 
 ally unproductive. It is a portion of the immense 
 plain of sand which extends through Hanover, Prus- 
 sia, and as far east as St. Petersburg, in Russia. The 
 most of the land is extremely poor, consisting of little 
 else than barren heath and scrubby fir. Near the 
 railway station in Hanover I found a good hotel, with 
 comfortable accommodations. This is the new town. 
 Here are broad streets and handsome buildings. But 
 Old Hanover interested me most. This- portion of 
 the city is a fine specimen of an antique continental 
 town. Many of the streets are narrow and crooked, 
 and the houses, which are often four to five stories, 
 project with each story some two feet, forming almost 
 an arch over the streets. A very novel sight to me 
 were the houses with gables toward the streets. 
 From the monument in Waterloo Platz I had a fine 
 view of the city and surrounding country. The pal- 
 ace and other public buildings were occupied by the 
 
214 European Correspondence. 
 
 Prussians. Hanover is now practically a Prussian 
 town, with a large garrison of blue coats. I saw 
 several thousand troops reviewed by the Crown 
 Prince. It is expected he will remove here with his 
 family, and make Hanover his future home. His 
 court will doubtless be as splendid as that of the 
 ex-king. I feel sorry for King George, who is old, 
 blind, and quite helpless. The inhabitants have made 
 up their mind that nothing that they can do will 
 avert the new state of things ; they will be found 
 as readily dancing attendance on the new as the old 
 king. The inhabitants, however, generally regret the 
 loss of their independence. 
 
 The compulsory military service will prove a hard- 
 ship to the annexed kingdoms and free cities, but 
 such is the fate of war. The barrack accommodations 
 in Hanover are large, yet not sufficient to accommodate 
 the troops that garrison the town; several thousand 
 men and officers are billeted on the citizens ; those 
 who are able, provide quarters at about fifty cents 
 per day for the soldiers assigned to them. This 
 billeting system is particularly hard on the poor ; 
 many of the citizens have scarcely made enough 
 during the past year to support their own household. 
 They have been boarding (?) the Prussians for more 
 than three months, and are quite tired of the business, 
 especially as they do not receive any compensation. 
 The year 1866 has been fatal to the Germanic thrones 
 and free cities ; Prussia will quite absorb Northern 
 Germany, and Austria the Southern States. Prussia 
 will be the strong Protestant power and Austria the 
 
European Correspondence. 215 
 
 Roman Catholic. Between these two great empires, 
 differing so widely in religion and politics, there will 
 necessarily be strifes and heart-burning. The Aus- 
 trian Empire cannot exist as an independent nation 
 until it has in some way wiped out the disgraceful 
 defeat so recently experienced. Austria is marshal- 
 ling her armies. When she has perfected her needle- 
 gun it will be German meet German, and then will 
 come the tug of war. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Hanover, Germany, 1866. 
 
 LETTER SEVENTEENTH. 
 
 Manners, Habits and Customs of the Germans — Birth- 
 place of Rothschild — Billeting of Soldiers — Germany, 
 from the days of Julius Ccesar — -Cholera — Crimean 
 War. 
 
 I have travelled through Germany from the extreme 
 South to the Baltic or North Sea, from Berlin to the 
 Rhine, and have also visited all of her principal cities. 
 In this long journey I have endeavored to see as much 
 of the country as I could. But to record the thou- 
 sand and one objects that present themselves in such 
 a tour is not an easy matter. I note down the princi- 
 pal objects of interest to be digested and written out 
 when I have more leisure. 
 
216 European Correspondence. 
 
 I like the honest, open-hearted German people, and 
 have studied carefully their manners, habits, customs, 
 and examined their system of education, commerce, 
 agriculture, manufacturing and railroads. I have 
 reviewed two of the most powerful armies in Europe, 
 standing in battle array. I am now in the far-famed 
 City of Frankfort, just in time to witness its last free 
 days. The terrible scenes and trials through which 
 this old free city has recently passed, and its historical 
 associations, having been for more than seven hundred 
 years a free town, and during a long period the capi- 
 tal of the great German Confederation — all these cir- 
 cumstances render the city, at this time, peculiarly 
 interesting. Here the election and crowning of the 
 Emperors of Germany have taken place for centuries. 
 Frankfort has been the seat of the largest banking 
 houses in the worjd. 
 
 It was in a narrow alley of Frankfort that the 
 founder of the great banking house of Rothschild 
 was born. Young Rothschild began life without 
 money or family influence ; but he possessed industry, 
 energy, economy and honesty-^qualifications which 
 ensure success. It is estimated that the different gov- 
 ernments in Europe owe the Rothschilds a thousand 
 millions of dollars ! In the immense business trans- 
 actions of this house, they look more carefully into 
 the security of the negotiation than the large profits. 
 
 The treatment of Frankfort by the Prussian Gene- 
 rals has excited universal indignation in Europe. 
 Gen. Reeder demanded from the mayor thirty mil- 
 lion florins, with a threat that if the money was not 
 
European Correspondence. 217 
 
 forthcoming in twenty-four hours, the postoffice and 
 telegraph would be closed, and the city guarded to 
 prevent any articles of food from entering. These 
 demands were made as the right of war, which, after 
 all, is but the right of the strong over the weak, and 
 should be left wholly to the practice of barbarous 
 countries. But war, in its most modified usages, is 
 nothing less than a species of barbarism. No Chris- 
 tian nation should engage in it. Mayor Feller paid 
 six million florins to Reeder, to relieve the city, and 
 liquidated the balance of the unjustifiable demand by 
 hanging himself to the bedpost. The excitement 
 was so great in the city that the coffin was removed 
 to the cemetery at night, and the funeral took place 
 at 4 o'clock, A. M., instead of nine, as advertised. 
 Notwithstanding this precaution the concourse of 
 people was immense. 
 
 Nearly every one here has Prussian soldiers billeted 
 upon his premises ; one family was required to pro- 
 vide for two hundred, because the ladies threw flowers 
 from their windows upon the Austrian troops and 
 brickbats upon the Prussians. The history of all wars 
 proves that the women are more spirited, not to say 
 vindictive, than the men. Prompted by patriotic 
 sentiment, they ignore consequences, though alas ! 
 for them, war often makes anything but beds of roses, 
 and deprives many a one of a lifetime companion. 
 
 Germany, from the days of Julius Caesar, has occu- 
 pied a prominent position in the history of Europe. 
 The Romans extended their conquests over Spain, 
 France and England, but never over the Fatherland. 
 28 
 
218 European Correspondence-. 
 
 It is situated in the centre of Europe, and in length, 
 from the Adriatic to the North Sea, seven hundred 
 and fifty miles ; in breadth, from Belgium to Russia, 
 six hundred and fifty miles, and contains fifty thou- 
 sand square miles, with a population of seventy mil- 
 lions — in the new organization, being pretty equally 
 divided between Prussia and Austria, and their allies. 
 In nearly every quarter of Germany extensive chains 
 of mountains are to be found ; but none of them will 
 compare in height or beauty of scenery to those of 
 Switzerland. The most elevated mountains I saw 
 were in Bavaria, their summits being white with snow 
 even in August. I was surprised to find in this old 
 country immense forests of timber, which are a source 
 of great wealth. More than a fourth of Germany is 
 covered with forests. The climate varies with the 
 elevation of the different localities, but neither the 
 heat nor cold is extreme. During my journey thus 
 far through the Continent of Europe, the thermometer 
 was not above sixty-five degrees. Germany is well 
 watered ; I found it particularly so, as it rained fifty- 
 seven days out of sixty. 
 
 The system of agriculture is better in Southern 
 than in Northern Germany. At the South the 
 Napoleonic code is introduced, the large estates being 
 generally divided into small farms, which are owned 
 by those who cultivate them. Food and living is, 
 consequently, much cheaper in Austria than Prussia. 
 The country is not in as high a state of cultivation as 
 I expected to find it, though I saw it under very 
 unfavorable circumstances, as nearly the whole of the 
 
European Correspondence. 219 
 
 male population has been, for several months, with- 
 drawn from agricultural pursuits. If the people of 
 Germany would cultivate peace, instead of engaging 
 in wars of thirty years' duration, the condition of 
 their women would be greatly changed for the better. 
 Upon them the most of the drudgeries of the farm 
 devolve — such as ploughing, hoeing, raking, reaping 
 and threshing. They are even made beasts of burden. 
 It is not an uncommon sight to see a delicate female 
 harnessed beside a dog, trudging along the public 
 roads through rain and mud, pulling a heavily loaded 
 cart. They also carry heavy baskets strapped on 
 their backs, filled with market vegetables. The women 
 in this old country have a very hard time ; they 
 greatly outnumber the men, who emigrate or are 
 killed in battle. As a consequence, Mormonism is 
 practiced on a large scale. There are, however, many 
 finely educated ladies here. It is the frequent wars 
 that render the situation of the women in Germany so 
 hard. In the Crimean, the Anglo-Indian, and the 
 Italian wars, all of which occurred between 1853 an d 
 i860, more than a million of their men perished. 
 
 In the Crimean war alone, which lasted only two 
 and a half years, Europe lost six hundred thousand 
 men. The amount of money swallowed up in the 
 almost perpetual European wars is past computation. 
 In the recent short struggle between Prussia and 
 Austria, more than two hundred thousand men were 
 killed in battle or died from disease. The cholera has 
 made sad havoc among the soldiers. More persons 
 die from diseases contracted in camp than are killed 
 
220 European Correspondence. 
 
 in battle. But one need not come to Europe to 
 witness the horrors of war. Our own sunny South, 
 which was, six years ago, the most prosperous country 
 in the world, has been deluged in blood, and her peo- 
 ple reduced to poverty. This cruel war has made a 
 nation of widows and orphans, with no government to 
 protect or care for them. It was permitted of God 
 that these calamities should come upon our people, 
 and we should deplore our evils with a due feeling of 
 resignation. Let us do our whole duty and trust in 
 Divine Providence. I am not without hope that our 
 land will again blossom as the rose. We must, how- 
 ever, all work. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Frankfort-on-the- Maine, September, 1 866. 
 
LETTER EIGHTEENTH 
 
 Frankfort — Old German Emperors — Statue of Charle- 
 magne — Goetlie, the favorite German Poet — Printing 
 Press — War in Germany — Count Bismark. 
 
 Frankfort is in the valley of the Main, and is in the 
 centre of a fertile country. It has nearly one hundred 
 thousand inhabitants. The new portion of the city 
 contains the finest private residences in Germany. 
 One of the chief objects of interest to the traveller is 
 the old hall of the Senate — not so much for its splen- 
 dor as for its historical associations. As I walked 
 through the Elector's room, fifty-two old German 
 Emperors, from Conrad I to Francis II looked down 
 upon me from the walls on which they were hanging. 
 I could not but think where are these great men now? 
 To their praise it is recorded, that in this long line of 
 emperors there were found very few tyrants. In 
 addition to the fifty-two portraits, there are many 
 splendid paintings in the hall. " The Judgment of 
 Solomon," by Steinle, is a striking picture. It was a 
 wise thought of Solomon in proposing to " divide the 
 child in two ; give one-half to the one, and half to 
 the other." The greatest horror is depicted on the 
 countenance of the natural mother, at the prospect 
 of having her child slain. Immediately above the 
 bridge, on the Main, is the statue of the famous 
 Charlemaene, who was, for a lone time, resident of 
 
222 European Correspondence. 
 
 the Imperial Free City. Charlemagne, in his day, 
 was equal to Napoleon in the nineteenth century. 
 The favorite German poet, Goethe, was born here, 
 and a handsome marble statue of him stands in the 
 Public Library. There is also a monumental statue 
 of Goethe near the theatre. In the gallery is a fine 
 portrait of the great Reformer, Martin Luther, who, 
 at one time, resided in Frankfort, though he was a 
 native of Saxony. The old fortifications that encircled 
 the town have been torn down and handsome gardens 
 laid out on the site. The Jews, until recently, were 
 treated with great illiberality in Frankfort. They 
 were restricted to a particular quarter of the city, and 
 the gates were closed at an eaniy hour every night, 
 after which ingress and egress were denied them. 
 The law restricting their marriages in the city to 
 thirteen annually, was not repealed until 1834. The 
 Exchange here is a fine building, and contains two 
 imposing figures, representing Hope and Prudence. 
 Hope inspires confidence and courage, while Prudence 
 makes us cautious, careful and discreet. Mercantile 
 success is largely due to the united influence of these 
 principles. 
 
 I was introduced into two extensive reading-rooms. 
 Each of them contained more than a hundred news- 
 papers and journals. American politics are studied 
 as closely here as on Wall street. The bankers said 
 to me : " You will have civil war again in the United 
 States in less than twelve months." I replied, never — 
 never. They said, " If we could feel assured of that 
 fact, your bonds, which are now selling at thirty per 
 
European Correspondence. 223 
 
 cent, discount, would command a premium." A re- 
 stored Union, no doubt, would inspire confidence and 
 create such a foreign demand for American securities 
 as to bring back our currency to a specie basis — a 
 result greatly to be desired by all sections of the 
 country. Until our political affairs are more settled, 
 however, capitalists will be very cautious in making 
 investments in American securities — especially at any- 
 thing like their value. The Germans hold a large 
 amount of Confederate bonds, and wished to know 
 the prospect of their being paid. I told them the 
 bonds would be good "six months after the ratifica- 
 tion of a treaty of peace between the United States 
 and the Confederate States " — but it was quite uncer- 
 tain when such an event would happen. 
 
 An hour by railway from Frankfort, in the valley 
 of the Main, through an extremely fertile and finely 
 cultivated country, and we arrive at Mayence, the 
 chief city of the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt. 
 Mayence is at the mouth of the River Main, on 
 the Rhine — population forty-five thousand. It is a 
 strongly fortified city, having, for a long period, been 
 the strongest fortress of the German Confederation, 
 with a garrison of five thousand Prussian and five 
 thousand Austrian troops, commanded alternately for 
 five years by an Austrian and a Prussian Governor. 
 The lofty old houses and narrow crooked streets, 
 gives the city an antique appearance. The mammoth 
 cathedral, built of red sandstone, is nearly a thousand 
 years old. The interior is richly painted, and con- 
 tains numerous old statues. During the frequent 
 
224 European Correspondence. 
 
 bombardments of the city, the old cathedral was much 
 damaged. The Jacobins converted it into a powder 
 magazine. A bridge of boats, seventeen hundred feet 
 long, connects Mayence with Cassel on the opposite 
 side of the Rhine. 
 
 The printing press, which has had such a powerful 
 influence in advancing human knowledge, was in- 
 vented here by John Gutenberg, in 1444. A bronze 
 statue has been erected to his memory. Steamers, 
 during the summer months, leave Mayence three or 
 four times daily for Cologne; also, three railway trains. 
 Mayence carries on a brisk trade in grain and lum-„ 
 ber brought down the Rhine, and from the interior 
 by rail. The growth of the finest Rhenish wine is 
 limited to a circle of about ten miles around Mayence. 
 
 Prussia has absorbed Hanover, Hesse Cassel, Nas- 
 sau and Frankfort. She will not be satisfied with the 
 humiliation of Austria, but will dictate terms of her 
 own for all the German States. Holland, Belgium, 
 and Old Hamburg may for the present maintain their 
 nationality, but they will all sooner or later be Prus- 
 sianized. 
 
 The recent war in Germany was not for liberty, but 
 for territorial aggrandizement. Prussia wished to 
 extend her northern boundary over the Duchy of Hol- 
 stein, which was at one time a province of Denmark. 
 It was against the interest of Austria for Prussia to 
 increase her territory, and, in consequence, the power 
 of her rival for position and supremacy. The Ger- 
 man Diet at Frankfort adhered to Austria by a vote 
 of nine to six, and armed against Prussia. Austria 
 
European Correspondence. 225 
 
 found herself between two fires. King Emanuel 
 wanted Venetia, and now was the time to strike the 
 blow for its recovery to Italy. It was the expecta- 
 tion of Napoleon that the two great powers, before 
 the conflict ended, would become so exhausted that? 
 when he got ready to mediate, France would be able 
 to secure the Rhine as the boundary of her empire. 
 The unexpected and disastrous defeat of the Aus- 
 trians occurred just as the Prussian army was fairly 
 organized. Napoleon consequently found himself 
 unprepared to enforce successfully any demands he 
 might make on German territory. Bismark knew 
 the strength of his kingdom, hence his laconic reply 
 to the French. 
 
 Bismark has been for the past six years the master 
 spirit in Germany, and recently he has almost eclipsed 
 the distinguished Emperor of the French. In 1859, 
 Bismark was the Prussian Ambassador at the Court 
 of the Tuileries. While in Paris it is thought he took 
 some diplomatic lessons from Napoleon. I should 
 not wonder if he did, for his eyes are large, and he 
 keeps them pretty wide open. In 1862, Bismark was 
 ordered by King William to Berlin to form a new 
 ministry, over which he was appointed chief. His 
 first act was to augment and reorganize the army, 
 and to extend the military service in the army to 
 three years. This was quite an unpopular measure, 
 and was rejected by a vote of two hundred and 
 seventy-two against sixty-eight. Bismark coolly dis- 
 solved the ministry, giving them to understand that 
 the king would dispense with their approval of the 
 29 
 
226 -- European Correspondence. 
 
 budget, and would put in. execution whatever meas- 
 ures he deemed best for the public good. Bismark 
 had some queer notions on political economy ; he 
 was in favor of passing a law regulating the prices of 
 all commodities ; he was also in favor of prescribing 
 the number of apprentices who should be admitted to 
 each trade. 
 
 Count Bismark is fifty-three years old, and is of a 
 stout, robust constitution; but the heavy duties which 
 devolved upon him during the past year, and more 
 especially during the reorganization of the Northern 
 Germanic Confederacy, have affected his brain. His 
 illness is regarded as of serious character. It will be 
 difficult to get a suitable man to occupy the office 
 which has been so illustriously filled by Bismark. 
 The brilliant success of his measures has made him 
 one of the most popular statesmen in Germany, and 
 it is said he is disposed to introduce liberal reforms 
 and make the change as light as possible for the new 
 Prussian subjects. His object is to make a strong and 
 united government. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Mayence, Germany, September, 1866. 
 
LETTER NINETEENTH. 
 
 The Rivers in Germany — Swamps and Sea Islands of 
 the Palmetto State — " Bingcn on the Rhine" — The 
 Horrors of War. 
 
 The rivers in Germany, when compared with those 
 in America, are small, and their navigation is rendered 
 dangerous by numerous falls, while the ice obstructs 
 many of them six months in the year. The Elbe is 
 an important river, as it furnishes the splendid port of 
 Hamburg. The Danube is one of the finest rivers in 
 Europe. It rises in the mountains of Prussia, and 
 flows south through Saxony, Bohemia, Austria and 
 Bavaria, and empties into the Black Sea. The scenery 
 on some portions of the Danube is picturesque and 
 grand, especially between Vienna and Linz. But of 
 all the rivers on the Continent, the Rhine interests 
 one most. I saw it in the Alps of Switzerland, with 
 scarcely water enough to float a duck ; and I have 
 seen it dashing over steep precipices and cliffs, fed by 
 thousands of glaciers and mountain rivulets, until it has 
 grown into a great navigable river, forming boundaries 
 and barriers between mighty nations. A violent 
 storm on the ocean threw up an immense bank of 
 sand, which closed the mouth of the Rhine for more 
 than a thousand years — its great volume of water was 
 lost in the vast beds of sand, spreading over Holland, 
 converting many portions of it into morasses and 
 
228 European Correspondence. 
 
 miasmatic swamps. When Napoleon was stretching 
 his ambitious wing over land and sea, he made his 
 brother, Louis Bonaparte, King of Holland. Under 
 the administration of King Louis, the Rhine was 
 made, by means of canals and dykes, to discharge 
 itself through immense sluice-gates into the ocean. 
 When the tide flows the gates are shut to prevent 
 the entrance of the sea. During ebb tide they are 
 opened by means of machinery, to allow the accumu- 
 lated streams to pass out. This artificial drainage, 
 produced by gigantic hydraulic works, has proved to 
 be of incalculable advantage to Holland, transforming 
 lagoons into beautiful garden farms. 
 
 I wish a Napoleon had possession of the swamps 
 and sea islands of the Palmetto State ; they are capa- 
 ble of being made a second Eden. In i860, the 
 sea islands of South Carolina were El Dorados of 
 the South, but four years of desolating war have 
 almost converted them into howling wildernesses. 
 The elegant homes of the planters, which were spared 
 by the English and " savages " in the days of the first 
 American revolution, were burned during the late 
 civil war, and orange groves, and the grand old oaks 
 which the woodman had spared for centuries, were 
 levelled to the ground. This is the result of relent- 
 less war, with its myriad of malignant hates and mer- 
 cenary appetites. May our people never again find it 
 necessary or wise to convert the ploughshare into the 
 sword ! 
 
 But to return to the Rhine. An hour from May- 
 ence — or Menz, as the Germans call it — in a fine 
 
European Correspondence. 229 
 
 steamer, through the richest scenery, and I find 
 myself at Bingen — dear "Bingen on the Rhine." I 
 was forcibly reminded of the following beautiful poem 
 of Mrs. Norton, which a friend in the " Queen City " 
 has so often sung and read for me : 
 
 A soldier of the legion lay dying in Algiers ; 
 
 There was lack of woman's nursing — there was dearth of woman's tears ; 
 
 But a comrade stood beside him, while his life-blood ebb'd away, 
 
 And bent, with pitying glances, to hear what he might say. 
 
 The dying soldier faltered, as he took that comrade's hand, 
 
 And he said, " I never more shall see my own, my native land ; 
 
 Take a message, and a token, to some distant friends of mine, 
 
 For I was born at Bingen — at Bingen on the Rhine. 
 
 II. 
 
 " Tell my brothers and companions, when they meet and crowd around 
 To hear my mournful story in the pleasant vineyard ground, 
 That we fought the battle bravely 5 and when the day was done, 
 Full many a corpse lay ghastly pale, beneath the setting sun : 
 And midst the dead and dying were some grown old in wars, 
 The death-wound on their gallant breasts — the last of many scars ; 
 And some were young — and suddenly beheld life's morn decline ; 
 And some had come from Bingen — fair Bingen on the Rhine! 
 
 III. 
 
 " Tell my mother that her other sons shall comfort her old age, 
 
 And I was aye a truant bird that thought his home a cage : 
 
 For my father was a soldier, and even as a child, 
 
 My heart leaped forth to hear him tell of struggles fierce and wild ; 
 
 And when he died, and left us to divide his scanty hoard, 
 
 I let them take whate'er they would, but kept my father's sword ; 
 
 And with boyish love I hung it where the bright light used to shine, 
 
 On the cottage wall at Bingen — calm Bingen on the Rhine ! 
 
230 European Correspondence. 
 
 IV. 
 
 '' Tell my sister not to weep for me, and sob with drooping head, 
 
 When the troops are marching home again, with glad and gallant tread; 
 
 But to look upon them proudly, with a calm and steadfast eye, 
 
 For her brother was a soldier, too, and not afraid to die. 
 
 And if a comrade seeks her love, I ask her in my name, 
 
 To listen to him kindly, without regret or shame, 
 
 And to hang the old sword in its place (my father's sword and mine,) 
 
 For the honor of old Bingen — dear Bingen on the Rhine ! 
 
 " There's another — not a sister ; in the happy days gone by, 
 
 You'd have known her by the merriment that sparkled in her eye ; 
 
 Too innocent for coquetry — too fond for idle scorning — 
 
 Oh ! friend, I fear the lightest hearts make sometimes heaviest mourning ; 
 
 Tell her the last night of my life (for ere the moon be risen 
 
 My body will be out of pain — my soul be out of prison,) 
 
 I dream'd I stood with her and saw the yellow sunlight shine 
 
 On the vine-clad hills of Bingen — fair Bingen on the Rhine ! 
 
 VI. 
 
 " I saw the blue Rhine sweep along — I heard or seem'd to hear, 
 
 The German song we used to sing, in chorus sweet and clear, 
 
 And down the pleasant river, and up the slanting hill, 
 
 The echoing chorus sounded, through the evening calm and still ; 
 
 And her glad blue eyes were on me as we passed with friendly talk, 
 
 Down many a path beloved of yore, and well remembered walk, 
 
 And her hand lay lightly, softly, confidingly in mine : 
 
 But we'll meet no more at Bingen — loved Bingen on the Rhine !" 
 
 One night a loved one was reading the above pa- 
 thetic poem — her little six-year old boy melted in 
 tears, and said : " Please, mother, don't read about 
 the poor soldier — it makes me feel so sad !" Oh, the 
 horrors of war — thou bane of life and happiness — 
 how many mothers hast thou robbed of their darling 
 
European Correspondence. 231 
 
 sons, wives of their husbands, and children of their 
 parents ! Every human being that perishes in battle 
 is a violation of the sixth commandment. A friend 
 of mine in Charleston had three sons, boys of whom 
 any mother might well be proud, for they were young 
 men of uncommon brightness and promise. The 
 fond mother had deprived herself of many a comfort 
 that they might receive a liberal education. The first 
 time I saw the eldest, he brought a letter of introduc- 
 tion from the lamented James L. Petigru, who was a 
 steadfast friend of the family. Mr. Petigru discovered 
 mind and genius in " Charlie Wildwood, " and his 
 kind and benevolent heart was interested in the youth. 
 The truth is, Mr. P.'s heart was always larger than his 
 purse. He was kept poor in helping others. The 
 three boys wereamong the first to enter the Con- 
 federate army. In the memorable battles around 
 Richmond, Captain H., while at the head of his com- 
 pany, fell mortally wounded. His brother ran to his 
 assistance, and was instantly killed. The third son 
 fell in the army of Tennessee. Thus perished LeRoy, 
 Frederick, and Abner Hammond — worthy descend- 
 ants of the Hammonds of Revolutionary memory, 
 who fought so bravely to establish American Inde- 
 pendence. I shall never forget the pale, sorrowful 
 countenance of the heart-broken mother when she 
 informed me of her irreparable loss. Mrs. H.'s great- 
 est desire was to recover the bodies of her sons. At 
 that time ladies were not permitted to visit Rich- 
 mond, as the railroads were employed to their utmost 
 capacity in transporting troops, commissary stores, 
 
232 European Correspondence. 
 
 etc. The feeble, delicate mother persevered until she 
 got a permit to visit Richmond in the capacity of a 
 nurse. She saw the graves of thousands of poor sol- 
 diers, but returned without her lost treasures. The 
 recollection of these sad histories, which were the 
 result of an unnecessary and unfortunate war, makes 
 me feel as my little boy did when his mother read to 
 him about the soldier of Bingen — "dear Bingen on 
 the Rhine." 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Bingen on the Rhine, September, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTIETH 
 
 Ancient Castles — Statues — Bishop Hutto — Floating Isl- 
 ands of Timber — Scenery of the Rhine — Old Cologne 
 — Banishment of the yews — World-renowned Cathe- 
 dral — Church of Saint Ursula. 
 
 The steep, vine-clad mountains around Bingen, 
 almost shut in the Rhine. It is not surprising that 
 the Germans have a superstitious reverence for this 
 grand old river, for on its picturesque banks there is 
 a blending of beauties and relics not to be found on 
 any other river in Europe. I cannot but feel an 
 interest in the ruins of the ancient castles which crown 
 nearly every hill. They are tottering monuments of 
 a defunct feudal aristocracy of the middle ages. With 
 
European Correspondence. 233 
 
 each castle is a legend. They were the abodes of 
 many daring chiefs, but their memories have perished 
 with them. One feels, as he travels through this old 
 country, the spirit of the past, and its touching recol- 
 lections come back upon the mind with irresistible 
 power. 
 
 Bingen was a favorite retreat of the famous Charle- 
 magne. He built, in this neighborhood, a magnificent 
 palace, ornamented with one hundred marble col- 
 umns. Only a few pillars remain to mark the site of 
 this once grand edifice. Our guide pointed out a 
 marble statue of one of Charlemagne's four queens. 
 A thousand years ago, queens were scarcely as grand, 
 by comparison, as milkmaids nowadays. On an 
 island in the middle of the stream is a tower, where 
 tradition tells us that Bishop Hutto was eaten up by 
 the rats for his misdeeds. That army of sharp- 
 toothed quadrupeds might find active employment in 
 some other countries that I have read of, in doing the 
 work equally of divine and human justice. 
 
 The Rhine is distinguished for its beauty of scenery 
 and for the rich fields, valleys and vineyards which 
 line its banks. Populous cities, towns and valleys 
 ornament its borders. The Rhine furnishes seven 
 hundred miles of .navigation from Basle, in Switzer- 
 land, to the sea, thus enabling the inhabitants of its 
 fertile valleys to exchange their products at a small 
 expense for transportation. I was much interested 
 in the immense floating islands of timber as they 
 drifted slowly down the Rhine. These huge rafts are 
 made up of logs as they are hurled down the steep 
 30 
 
234 European Correspondence. 
 
 mountains, one at a time, until enough are collected 
 to make the foundation of a respectable village. I 
 counted eight rude cottages built on one raft. In 
 addition to the large colony of pigs, cows, sheep and 
 poultry, there are often as many as four hundred per- 
 sons acting in the capacity of rowers, pilots, cooks, 
 workmen, and so on. This motley group of men, 
 women and children seemed quite at home in the 
 immense ark. The lively and enchanting music, 
 which is as essential to the German as his pipe, is to 
 be heard early and late. The captain occupies an 
 elevated position, from which he can command a 
 view of the raft, from end to end, and directs its move- 
 ments by signals. You can judge of the magnitude 
 and cost of a Rhine raft when you learn that the 
 workmen are months in constructing it, and consume 
 from its commencement until it is sold, sixty thou- 
 sand pounds of bread and potatoes, forty thousand 
 pounds of butter and cheese, thirty-five thousand 
 pounds of meat, five hundred tons beer, besides wine, 
 vegetables, etc. A good sized raft sells in Holland 
 for one hundred thousand to one hundred and fifty 
 thousand dollars. The usual voyage from Bingen to 
 Holland is twenty days. 
 
 As a commercial channel, the Rhine is one of the 
 most important rivers on the Continent. The travel 
 up and down the river from Mayence to Cologne is 
 immense. As a swift railway is on each bank of this 
 noble river, the travel by steamer is rapidly diminish- 
 ing. From the deck of a steamer alone, however, you 
 are able to obtain a full view of the Rhine scenery. 
 
European Correspondence. 235 
 
 My passage from Bingen to Cologne was delightful; 
 the scenery varied every moment, with the vine-ter- 
 raced hills often bordering the very water's edge. 
 The great beauties of the Rhine, after leaving Switzer- 
 land, lie between Mayence and Bonn. 
 
 But here is old Cologne, which is one of the finest 
 cities on the Rhine, filled with churches, cathedrals, 
 museums and palaces, and rich in historic associa- 
 tions. In the thirteenth century, Cologne was one of 
 the most populous cities in Germany. With one 
 hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, Cologne flour- 
 ished not only in the possession of three hundred 
 church steeples, but in commerce, science and the 
 fine arts. This interesting and antique city was first 
 settled by the Romans under Marcus Agrippa. 
 Agrippina, mother of the monster of crime and ca- 
 price, Nero, who fiddled while Rome was burning, 
 was born here. The ancient walls which surround a 
 portion of the town, with their immense towers and 
 broad gates, are fine specimens of the fortifications of 
 the middle ages, but with the modern improvements 
 in artillery they are of little use. 
 
 The old city became the theatre of religious perse- 
 cution. Fifty thousand Jews were banished in one 
 year ; then followed the expatriation of the Protes- 
 tants. Thousands of the best houses became tenant- 
 less, trade declined, the fine arts were neglected. The 
 proud city which, at one time, could send forth thirty 
 thousand fighting men, was reduced, by religious in- 
 tolerance, to less than that number of men, women 
 and children. Since the French revolution the city 
 
236 * European Correspondence. 
 
 has greatly advanced in wealth and population. 
 Cologne has now one hundred and twenty-five thou- 
 sand inhabitants, and carries on a large trade. Under 
 the Prussian Government, the city is throwing off its 
 former dirty and gloomy appearance. Many of the 
 streets and houses would do credit to Berlin. Its fine 
 water communications are of great advantage. The 
 city is now the centre of railways running to Berlin, 
 Frankfort, Antwerp and Paris. Near the splendid 
 new iron bridge over the Rhine, is the world-re- 
 nowned cathedral. I wandered through this stupen- 
 dous Gothic building, which was intended by the 
 ambitious architect to be the largest and most mag- 
 nificent church on the globe, eclipsing even the great 
 Saint Peter's at Rome. Many millions of dollars have 
 been expended on it. Although six long centuries 
 have passed away since its foundations were laid, the 
 busy mechanics are still at work on the huge fabric, 
 and it will require another generation — perhaps cen- 
 tury — to complete the edifice. The old iron crane, 
 which has been standing for several centuries on the 
 unfinished tower, has recently been put in motion by 
 the King of Prussia. That ambitious monarch may 
 hasten the work to its final completion. 
 
 The body of this magnificent structure is in the 
 shape of a cross. There are four broad aisles with 
 rows of pillars, each row having more than a hundred 
 columns, of which the centre ones are thirty feet- in 
 circumference. One of the most remarkable sights 
 in the cathedral is the shrine of the three kings, who 
 came from the East to Bethlehem to bring presents 
 
/ 
 
 European Correspondence. 237 
 
 to the infant Saviour. Their bones, as the legend 
 says, were brought from Milan in 1 170, and deposited 
 in a case of silver, and placed in a small marble chapel 
 behind the high altar. The skulls of the kings were 
 crowned with golden diadems, enriched with jewels 
 and precious stones. During the French revolution, 
 Cologne fell into the hands of the Jacobins. They 
 had as little reverence for priest as for king. Many 
 of the precious relics in the shrine disappeared. The 
 treasures in the silver box are said to be worth sev- 
 eral millions of dollars. I have a shrewd suspicion that 
 there is more paste than diamonds on these crowned 
 heads. Amongst the other objects of interest is the 
 silver coffin of Saint Engebert, the projector of the 
 cathedral. There are other fine monuments, numer- 
 ous painted windows, and curious tapestry. For fifty 
 cents you can see the bones of Saint Matthew ! I 
 presume, for an additional fifty cents, the bones of 
 each of the apostles could be exhibited, and pieces of 
 the "original cross," on which our Saviour was cruci- 
 fied. 
 
 Portions of many of the finest churches in Europe 
 are converted into museums. As many ridiculous 
 relics are exhibited here as are to be found at Bar- 
 num's in New York. These, however, have their prof- 
 itable uses, and bring into the church many people 
 who are not in the habit of frequenting such places ; 
 thus yielding a large revenue. Apart from the spires, 
 paintings and statues, the churches on the Continent 
 have interested me very much, and there are few days 
 in the week or month that I have not visited one or 
 
238 European Correspondence. 
 
 more. I have visited the churches early and late, in 
 storm and in sunshine, but I did not enter a church 
 without finding pious worshippers. Occasionally I 
 would be almost stifled with the smoke arising from 
 the incense. I cannot even now understand the vir- 
 tue of these burnt offerings. I presume, however, 
 many who present themselves at the altar need fumi- 
 gating. Among the Protestants, there are those who 
 do not see the necessity of immersion ; others cry out 
 against baptism, and there are still others who are 
 so uncharitable as to pronounce " class meetings " a 
 popish invention. I have a notion that there are good 
 and bad people to be found in all denominations. A 
 great deal of the world's religion, after all, is educa- 
 tional ; hence the necessity of making judicious selec- 
 tions of the teachers for our children. 
 
 I next visited the Church of Saint Ursula, to see the 
 bones of eleven thousand virgins who were slain by 
 the naughty Huns because they refused to become 
 mothers. As you enter the church, these hideous 
 relics meet the eye on every side ; even the glass 
 pavement under your feet is laid on bones. The 
 masonry of bones is built several feet thick on the 
 walls. This ghastly sight was nearly as hideous to 
 my eyes as the Strasburg mummies. Just as I entered 
 the church a marriage ceremony was taking place, 
 which was certainly a more agreeable sight than the 
 relics of the unfortunate virgins. It was the first wed- 
 ding I had attended in Germany. My patience was 
 quite exhausted before the priest pronounced the 
 happy couple man and wife. The ceremony was 
 
European Correspondence. 239 
 
 tedious and unnecessarily prolonged. My guide pro- 
 posed to visit another church which contained the 
 bones of six thousand martyrs, but I begged to be 
 excused, as I had seen enough in that line. I pre- 
 ferred visiting Farina's famous Eau de Cologne manu- 
 factory. There are thirty manufacturers of Cologne 
 water in this city. Notwithstanding I bathed freely 
 in this sweet water, I dreamed nearly all night of 
 
 skulls and bones. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Cologne, September, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-FIRST 
 
 Aix-la- Chape ile — The Great Charlemagne — Napoleon's 
 March to Moscoiv — Leaving Germany — Summer attd 
 Autumn in France, Switzerland and Germany — 
 Wages paid Women. 
 
 An hour from Cologne by the swift express train, 
 through a beautiful and fertile country, and I find 
 myself at Aix-la-Chapelle, a flourishing city of Prus- 
 sia, with seventy-five thousand inhabitants. I stopped 
 here to see a New Orleans friend, who was spending 
 a few weeks at this celebrated watering place for the 
 benefit of his health. 
 
 The great Charlemagne, who established the Ger- 
 man Empire a thousand years ago, was born and 
 died in this city. The Hotel de Ville is an im- 
 
240 European Correspondence. 
 
 posing building, erected on the site of the palace in 
 which Charlemagne was born. It contains some fine 
 paintings and numerous portraits — among the oldest 
 known — of Charlemagne, Napoleon, Josephine, and 
 Maria Theresa — the latter was the mother of the 
 unfortunate Marie Antoinette. The Notre Dame here 
 is one of the oldest churches in Germany. It was 
 erected by Charlemagne in 796. He designed it to 
 be a burial place for himself, causing it to be con- 
 structed in the form of the Church of the Holy 
 Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The tomb in which once 
 reposed the mortal remains of the great warrior, is 
 marked by a large marble slab, inscribed with the 
 words " Carlo Magno." When the tomb was opened 
 in the twelfth century, the body of Charlemagne was 
 found seated on his throne as one alive, clothed in 
 the imperial robes, bearing the sceptre in his hand, 
 and on his knees a copy of the gospels ; on his flesh- 
 less brow was the crown, which has ever since been 
 used in the coronation ceremonies of succeeding Em- 
 perors of Germany. 
 
 Charlemagne conquered the barbarous natives, and 
 extended his empire over the whole of France, Ger- 
 many, Italy, and the north of Spain. It is said he could 
 not read and write his name, but " signed the treaties 
 with the hilt of his sword, and enforced them with 
 its point." After he became a conqueror he learned 
 to read, and founded the University of Paris, the first 
 in Europe. This great captain had a mind and a will 
 that commanded the respect and admiration of the 
 world. Charlemagne was more fortunate than the 
 
Europe an Correspondence. 241 
 
 ambitious Napoleon, for he retained the kingdoms he 
 conquered to the day of his death, and established 
 his son, Louis, over his mighty empire; but this youth 
 did not possess the mind and energy of his illustrious 
 father. He was ill-qualified to govern in the stern 
 age in which he lived. The empire, which had cost 
 the lives of so many thousands to establish, was soon 
 divided and sub-divided, and became the scene of war, 
 desolation and anarchy. The bones of this famous 
 warrior, it is said,, were recently discovered in a chest, 
 hid in a dark closet ! and for the paltry sum of fifty 
 cents, these relics are to be seen, with the addition of 
 a lock of the Virgin's hair, a piece of the true Cross, 
 the leather girdle of Christ, a nail of the Cross, the 
 sponge which was filled with vinegar, the arm of 
 Simeon on which he bore the infant Saviour, the bones 
 of Stephen, Manna from the wilderness, and Aaron's 
 rod ! All of these, and many more wonderful relics, 
 are to be seen for two francs. 
 
 I was told if I could remain here until July, 1867, 
 I should then have an opportunity of seeing relics 
 presented to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jeru- 
 salem. They are deposited in a rich shrine of silver, 
 and are said to consist of the robe worn by the Vir- 
 gin, and numerous other articles of clothing, crosses, 
 gems, jewelry and plate. These " Grandes Reliques" 
 are shown only once in seven years. It is said, in 
 i860 more than five hundred thousand persons, chiefly 
 peasants, resorted to the exhibition. Barnum's Mu- 
 seum is eclipsed by some of the museums to be found 
 in the churches of this Old World, and many of the 
 31 
 
242 European Correspondence. 
 
 relics are about as genuine as the gutta-percha mer- 
 maid that Barnum tried to make the Charlestonians 
 believe was a true feminine of the briny deep. But 
 it was there that the humbug was first exposed, and 
 denounced by savants Bachman antl Geddings. Bar- 
 num actually consulted a Charleston lawyer, with the 
 view to an action of damages against them ; but he 
 thought better of it in season. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle has been the scene of many a hard 
 fought battle. In 1792 it was taken by the French, 
 retaken by the Austrians in 1793, and again captured 
 by the French in 1794, and held until Napoleon's 
 unfortunate march to Moscow in the winter of 18 12. 
 The allied powers took possession of the city in 18 14, 
 and it was here they held a great convention to adjust 
 the indemnities to be paid by France for the aggres- 
 sions of the Emperor Napoleon the First. France 
 was compelled to pay to foreign powers the sum of 
 seven hundred and fifty millions of francs, divided 
 among the nations as follows : 
 
 Francs. ' Francs. 
 
 Prussia 210,000,000 | Baden 7,000,000 
 
 England 125,000,000 | Saxony 7,000,000 
 
 Austria 113,000,000 | Hesse Cassel 5,000,000 
 
 Russia 100,000,000 I Hanover 5,000,000 
 
 Holland 60,000,000 | Hesse Darmstadt 4,000,000 
 
 Bavaria 41,000,000 I Denmark 2,500,000 
 
 Spain 12,500,000 I Portugal 2,000,000 
 
 Sardinia 10,000,000 I Mecklenburg 1,700,000 
 
 Wurtemberg 8,600,000 | 
 
 The rest of the requisition money was distributed 
 among twenty other small kingdoms that had been 
 overrun by the French. It will be seen that Prussia 
 got the lion's share. It was not a difficult matter for 
 
European Correspondence. 243 
 
 the allied powers to compel the French to pay 
 750,000,000 francs ; but no human power on earth 
 could restore the millions of immortal beings who 
 perished under the iron tread of the man who proved 
 to be the great disturber of peace and the scourge of 
 Europe. Napoleon's equal as a military chieftain is 
 yet to be born ; but he won his glory by deluging 
 Europe in blood and tears. Nearly all the great 
 men — so-called — of ancient and modern times were 
 military heroes. So long as military genius is wor- 
 shipped, the land will be cursed with wars. 
 
 In education, and in the science of war, the Germans 
 are doubtless ahead of any nation in Europe. In 
 Prussia the system of.education is said to be the most 
 perfect in existence. Munich patronizes the fine arts, 
 Berlin learning. A large number of distinguished 
 literary men receive salaries from the Government of 
 Prussia, and are pensioned when age or infirmity 
 compels them to withdraw from active labor. In 
 Prussia every man is compelled to enter the army at 
 twenty-one, and remain a soldier for three years. 
 This system makes a nation of trained soldiers ; but 
 this military life must have a baneful effect upon the 
 youth of the country, and especially upon all domestic 
 culture. 
 
 In a few hours I shall leave Germany — dear old 
 Germany. I have seen just enough of its beautiful 
 cities and towns ; its lofty mountains ; its fertile and 
 finely cultivated valleys ; its vine-clad hills and pic- 
 turesque rivers ; its palaces, museums, statues and 
 galleries of paintings ; its splendidly trained armies of 
 
244 European Correspondence. 
 
 a million and a half of men ; its fine system of educa- 
 tion, agriculture and railways — I say I have seen just 
 enough to sharpen my appetite for further travel, 
 study and investigation of this grand old country, so 
 full of thrilling historical associations. My time, 
 however, is limited, and I have yet to look upon some 
 of the hundred wonders of the world before I return 
 to America. 
 
 The summer and autumn have been unusually wet 
 in France, Switzerland and Germany, materially injur- 
 ing the crops of grain and grapes. In many places I 
 saw wheat, oats, barley and rye rotting in the fields. 
 The swollen mountain torrents came rushing down, 
 overflowing the banks and washing away the produce 
 of the valleys. The meadows, however, are green, 
 and yield fine crops of grass for the numerous flocks 
 of sheep and herds of cattle. The harvests of grain 
 on the Continent must necessarily be deficient, in 
 consequence of the extremely wet summer and the 
 large number of men who were engaged in the war 
 between Austria and Prussia. Until the nations in 
 Europe "beat their swords into ploughshares and 
 their spears into reap-hooks," the laborious cultivation 
 of the soil will necessarily devolve upon the women 
 and children. The great masses of the people through 
 the country which I have travelled are in moderate 
 circumstances, many of them very poor, and have no 
 means of gaining a comfortable subsistence but by 
 their daily toil. The youth are taught habits of indus- 
 try and frugality. They grow up to be strong, athletic 
 men and women, with well developed muscles, fully 
 
European Correspondence. 245 
 
 prepared for the hardships of life. The manual labor 
 and out-door exposure, of course, takes off some of 
 the polish of Mother Eve's daughters. They, how- 
 ever, make excellent housewives. 
 
 The wages paid the women for a hard year's work 
 on the farm are about twenty dollars. I tell them 
 they can do better by emigrating to the Cotton States 
 of the South. They, however, prefer the West, which 
 is on their part a great mistake. It is true they have 
 rich land in the West, and they can make a bountiful 
 supply of provision, but the day is not far distant 
 when a year's labor in the Western States will not 
 net thirty dollars. There will be too much competi- 
 tion in the production of food, while the portions of 
 the globe adapted to the culture of cotton and rice 
 are limited — too limited for the increasing popula- 
 tion of the world. Now that the system of labor is 
 changed in the late slave States, the people should 
 adapt themselves to the new state of things. The 
 large estates should be divided into small farms, and 
 immigration from all quarters encouraged. I am 
 satisfied from what I have seen, that, in the strictly 
 cotton, sugar, and rice sections of the South, there is 
 no labor equal to that of the descendants of Ham. 
 The negroes should be encouraged to remain with us; 
 it is for their interest and for our interest that they 
 should do so. There is not half the trouble in utiliz- 
 ing the colored as the white labor. Kind treatment, 
 with proper care and oversight, is what they require 
 and should have. I was never so thoroughly con- 
 vinced as I am now, that we have the best country in 
 
246 European Correspondence. 
 
 the world. Let our people awake universally from 
 that Rip Van Winkle sleep, which has fettered but 
 too many of them from youth to age ; be true to 
 themselves, and the beautiful and fruitful empire which 
 the bounty of God has given into their hands. Let 
 them substitute labor for political agitation, and find 
 their better pleasure and profit in making potatoes 
 than Presidents. This done, and the South will once 
 more become a free, prosperous, and happy nation. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, Germany, September, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-SECOND. 
 
 Brussels — Infidelity of Napoleon — City of Moscow — 
 Immense Sacrifice of Life. 
 
 Brussels is the capital of Belgium, and is in the 
 centre of the most highly cultivated country in Eu- 
 rope. It has a thriving population of one hundred 
 and eighty thousand. Brussels is one of the finest 
 cities on the Continent; the houses are substantially 
 built of stone ; the broad, clean streets in the upper 
 part of the city are magnificent. The grand Park is 
 the admiration of every traveller — it is laid out into 
 a kind of public garden, intersected by beautiful walks, 
 bordered with trees, and ornamented with handsome 
 statues of white marble, and filled with numerous foun- 
 tains, which are quite refreshing of a hot summer day. 
 
European Correspondence. 247 
 
 Brussels is celebrated for its world-renowned car- 
 pets, and its manufactures of tapestry and lace. Sev- 
 eral thousand female operatives are employed in the 
 manufacture of lace — the most of this delicate work 
 being done by the needle, which is very trying to 
 the eyes. In a public square are the old Spanish 
 palaces, with gorgeous tropical adornments and 
 Gobelin tapestry. These palaces were occupied by 
 the Spanish Governors, when Belgium was under 
 Spanish rule. The museum in the halls of the 
 palace contains some fine pictures, statues, etc. The 
 Museum of Natural History is quite interesting and 
 very complete. 
 
 An hour's ride in an open carriage from Brussels, 
 and I find myself at Waterloo, celebrated as the scene 
 of the great battle of 18th June, 181 5, which com- 
 pleted the downfall of Napoleon. An uncontrollable 
 ambition took possession of Napoleon in his youthful 
 military career. It would seem he had won for him- 
 self and his empire a name and reputation that would 
 have satisfied an Alexander or a Caesar; but not so. 
 Josephine — who had ever been his guardian angel, 
 and to whom it is said he was devotedly attached — 
 failed to furnish him with an heir for his mighty 
 empire. In an evil hour Napoleon permitted ambi- 
 tion to override love, humanity and justice. The 
 true and faithful Josephine was abandoned, and 
 Napoleon demanded in marriage the hand of Maria 
 Louisa, a young Austrian girl, not out of her teens, 
 who was the daughter of Emperor Francis, of 
 Austria. 
 
248 European Correspondence. 
 
 This unwarrantable infidelity of Napoleon found no 
 favor, not even in the eyes of the French nation ; they 
 felt that the warm-hearted Josephine was cruelly 
 wronged by one who had sworn to be her protector, 
 and that the French had gained nothing by the 
 alliance with the proud race of Hapsburg. From the 
 date of Napoleon's desertion of Josephine, fate turned 
 against him, and finally revenged Josephine. Now 
 that he was allied by marriage with the strong power 
 of Austria, his ambition knew no bounds. He de- 
 cided to make war upon the powerful Empire of 
 Russia. 
 
 In the summer of 18 12, Napoleon placed himself at 
 the head of the finest army ever raised in France. 
 Nearly half a million of men marched out from among 
 the sunny vine-clad hills of France, destined for the 
 City of Moscow. Many of his wisest military coun- 
 sellors warned him against an attempt to invade 
 the ancient capital of Russia in the winter months. 
 " Peace," he exclaimed, " awaits us beneath the walls 
 of Moscow." Fatal delusion ! This immense army 
 was to be marched twenty-five hundred miles, one 
 thousand of which was through the barren plains of 
 Russia. This sandy desert furnishes food for neither 
 man nor beast. In the month of September a terrible 
 battle was fought. The French gained a partial vic- 
 tory at the cost of thirty-two thousand men. The 
 Russians lost fifty thousand. The Russians retired 
 in good order, pursued by the victorious and confi- 
 dent French. The Russian commander decided not 
 to hazard his army in the defence of Moscow. He 
 
European Correspondence. 249 
 
 well knew that the French were advancing to their 
 own destruction, as the rigors of a Russian winter 
 were near at hand, when it would be impossible to 
 subsist such an army in the heart of a hostile country. 
 Moscow was at that time one of the richest and 
 largest cities in Europe, being twenty miles in circum- 
 ference. 
 
 It was in the autumn of 18 12 that Napoleon entered 
 the ancient city of the Czars. " Moscow ! Moscow!" 
 shouted the excited and exultant soldiers. They 
 vainly thought their sufferings at an end, as they 
 quartered themselves in the gorgeous palaces, splen- 
 didly furnished with everything requisite to make a 
 weary soldier comfortable. Napoleon and staff estab- 
 lished themselves in the palace of the Kremlin, which 
 was the imperial seat of the ancient Russian mon- 
 archs. When the emperor discovered that the inhab- 
 itants had deserted their homes, he had forebodings of 
 evil. Soldiers were stationed in all portions of the 
 city to guard against fire or sudden surprise. The 
 Emperor Alexander had turned loose fifteen thousand 
 desperadoes from the prisons, who were stealthily 
 preparing to convert the splendid metropolis into an 
 infernal machine, for the destruction of the invading 
 army. Immense magazines of powder, shells, and 
 other destructive engines of war, were placed under 
 the palace occupied by Napoleon, and scattered 
 beneath the houses which were crowded with the 
 French soldiers. The water pipes were cut, fountains 
 and fire engines destroyed ; nothing was left undone 
 to render the destruction of the citv complete ; even 
 32 
 
250 European Correspondence. 
 
 the elements came to the aid of the demons in their 
 work of desolation, for about night an equinoctial 
 gale swept over the city. A protracted drouth had 
 prepared the wooden houses for the torch. At mid- 
 night Napoleon threw himself exhausted on his bed, 
 but he was ill at ease ; his anxieties were enforced 
 and made active by ominous signs, which, as a soldier 
 and statesman, he could not mistake. His conscience 
 was torturing him ; he had deeply wronged -the bosom 
 companion of his youth. The cry of " fire " resound- 
 ed through the streets ; the heavens were illuminated 
 by the volumes of flames as they burst forth simul- 
 taneously in various sections of the city. 
 
 Tremendous explosions of shells and magazines of 
 powder shook the doomed city like an earthquake. 
 The Imperial Guard of twenty thousand men were 
 ordered out. These brave soldiers who were never 
 known to falter, could not stand before the terrible fiery 
 foe. The French soldiers shot, bayoneted, and threw 
 the incendiaries into the burning lake of fire, but it did 
 not stop them in their work of destruction. Thou- 
 sands of men, women and children were buried be- 
 neath the falling houses and timbers that had been 
 hurled into the air. Napoleon found the palace in 
 which he was quartered surrounded by flames, and 
 came near being swallowed in the roaring sea of fire. 
 Such an event would have saved him years of pain 
 and anguish. Perhaps his life was spared that he 
 might have time to repent in sorrow of his cruel treat- 
 ment of Josephine. The fire kindled by the fiends in 
 all portions of the city, was swept for three days by 
 
European Coirespondence. 25 1 
 
 a terrible gale, until Moscow, twenty miles in circum- 
 ference, was reduced to a heap of ruins. The burning 
 of Moscow saved the Russian Empire, and banished 
 Napoleon to the Island of Elba. 
 
 During the Russian campaign the French lost three 
 hundred and fifty thousand brave soldiers. Nearly 
 one-half perished from cold, hunger and fatigue, in 
 their disastrous retreat after the destruction of Mos- 
 cow. The loss of the Russians, including those who 
 perished for the want of food and shelter, was greater 
 than that of the French. Seven hundred thousand 
 lives sacrificed in a six months' campaign ! and this 
 to gratify the ambition of one miserable mortal man. 
 Such is war ! It involves in its mad career every 
 conceivable crime, poisoning the minds and morals of 
 a nation, and reducing the people to want, sorrow 
 and misery. And yet there are ministers of the 
 Gospel who defend the shedding of a brother's blood, 
 and appeal to the Bible to sustain them in their argu- 
 ments. 
 
 In my humble opinion, war is the work of the 
 devil; God may permit it, but he does not justify 
 it. When Cain made war upon Abel, God said unto 
 him : " And now art thou cursed from the earth which 
 hath opened her mouth to receive thy brother's blood 
 from thy hand. When thou tillest the ground it shall 
 not henceforth yield unto thee her strength ; a fugitive 
 and a vagabond shall thou be on earth." God showed 
 his displeasure by cursing the ground Cain was to 
 till, and making him a fugitive and a vagabond. So 
 mote it be with all the Cains, who, in their insane 
 
252 European Correspondence. 
 
 lusts and rages, deface the earth, defile humanity, and 
 strew the fields with the carcasses of their fellow- 
 men. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Brussels ; Belgium, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-THIRD. 
 
 Disastrous Campaign — Abdication of Napoleon — His 
 Escape from Elba — Marshal Ney — General Carom- 
 bonne — Humiliation and Suffering of Napoleon. 
 
 After Napoleon's disastrous Russian campaign, in 
 which he sacrificed the finest army ever raised in 
 France, a sixth and grand coalition was formed, with 
 the determination of crushing the man who had made 
 himself a terror and disturber of the peace of Europe. 
 The allies of France, whose friendship had been 
 obtained by conquest, and held at the point of the 
 bayonet, were glad of an opportunity of throwing off 
 the French yoke, and readily united with the allies in 
 making war upon Napoleon. Even the great Empe- 
 ror of Austria, on whom Napoleon relied as his 
 strongest and surest ally, in consequence of his mar- 
 riage to Maria Louisa, joined the coalition. In a 
 short time the allies had in the field more than a mil- 
 lion of men, and were marching on the French 
 metropolis from all quarters. Napoleon exerted 
 
European Correspondence. 253 
 
 almost superhuman power in the defence of his cher- 
 ished capital, but he was finally crushed by over- 
 whelming numbers. On the 31st March, 18 14, the 
 Emperor Alexander of Russia and the King of Prus- 
 sia entered Paris in triumph. Two hundred and fifty 
 thousand men — infantry, cavalry and artillery — 
 marched thirty abreast through the most frequented 
 thoroughfares of the city. The crowd of impulsive 
 Frenchmen, who so recently shouted " Vive l'Empe- 
 reur Napoleon," now shouted for Emperor Alexander 
 and King of Prussia, and " Vive Louis XVIII." 
 
 On the nth April, 1814, Napoleon very reluctantly 
 signed the Act of Abdication, renouncing for himself 
 and his family the thrones of France and Italy. Louis 
 XVIII, who had been residing in England, was recalled 
 and declared king. Thus were the old Bourbons 
 again restored to power, and Napoleon banished to 
 Elba, a small island in the Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 What a spectacle ! Behold this man of a giant 
 intellect, who so recently ruled the powerful nations 
 of Europe with an iron rod, now consigned, in dis- 
 grace, to a barren island not ten miles square. Napo- 
 leon deserved this severe punishment for his wrongs 
 to Josephine alone. How much more he merited of 
 punishment for his thousand other crimes need not be 
 estimated here. 
 
 The allied sovereigns who had dethroned Napoleon 
 were assembled at Vienna, arranging for a glorious 
 peace, and to settle the affairs of Europe. Vienna 
 became the scene of gaiety and brilliant fetes. It 
 was at one of these splendid entertainments that the 
 
254. European Correspondence. 
 
 astounding intelligence was received that Napoleon 
 had escaped from Elba, and effected a landing in 
 France. 
 
 The announcement led almost instantly to a seventh 
 coalition of the great powers to destroy the man they 
 regarded as the enemy of mankind. He was thought 
 a fit subject for public vengeance. Napoleon marched 
 from the south of France to Paris in twenty days, 
 without opposition. Marshal Ney, who was sent to 
 intercept him, promised to " bring back to Paris the 
 dangerous Corsican in an iron cage." The sight of 
 his old companion in arms was too much for old Ney; 
 he no longer remembered his oaths and promises to 
 Louis XVIII, but joined Napoleon, and marched 
 with him in triumph to the Tuileries, where they 
 arrived on the 20th of March, 1815, ten months from 
 the date of his banishment. 
 
 On the night of the 16th of June, Wellington was 
 attending a brilliant ball, given by the Duchess of 
 Richmond at Brussels; a courier entered and informed 
 the British General that Napoleon, with his army, was 
 within ten miles of Brussels ! It is said that the Iron 
 Duke turned pale, and instantly left, accompanied by 
 his officers, to prepare for the great conflict. The 
 bells were rang, war trumpets sounded, drums beat to 
 arms. In an hour the immense English army was on 
 its march. Wellington halted on the spacious field of 
 Waterloo. In this strong position he carefully select- 
 ed his ground, stationed his troops, and dispatched 
 a messenger for Blucher, who had under his command 
 sixty-five thousand splendid Prussian soldiers. 
 
European Correspondence. 255 
 
 No spot in Europe has interested me more than the 
 world-renowned battle-field of Waterloo. It was here, 
 then, half a century ago, that the most important bat- 
 tle recorded in history was fought. My guide pointed 
 out the position selected by the great English chief- 
 tain, which he so heroically defended against the des- 
 perate assaults of the French ; also, the old oak tree 
 under which Napoleon assembled his officers to give 
 them his final orders. " The army of the enemy," 
 said he, " outnumbers us one-fourth ; there are, how- 
 ever, ninety chances in our favor to ten against us." 
 
 It was a bright sunny morning in June, the day 
 appointed for rest ; silence reigned on the field, but 
 every one knew that in a few hours the fierce battle 
 would be raging. The surgeons had established their 
 hospitals in the rear, and stood with bandages, splin- 
 ters, knives and saws, ready to perform their work of 
 equal pain and mercy. At 10 o'clock the dreadful 
 struggle commenced. Wellington felt that the honor 
 of old England was resting on his broad shoulders, 
 and Napoleon knew that his fate, and that of his 
 empire, depended on the result of this day's battle. 
 The brave French soldiers made charge after charge, 
 shouting, " Vive I ' Emperenr /" They were pressing 
 heavily upon the English lines. Wellington stood 
 anxiously looking for the Prussians under Blucher. 
 He exclaimed, "Would to Heaven Blucher or night 
 would come ! " One whole day of slaughter had 
 passed, and the battle hung, as it were, in the 
 balance. Napoleon felt that victory was near at 
 hand, and was about making a final charge with the 
 
256.. European Correspondence. 
 
 Old Guard, which, it was said, never charged in vain. 
 At this critical moment heavy cannonading was heard, 
 and an army was seen in the distance advancing 
 rapidly to the scene of action. Napoleon thought it 
 was Marshal Grouchy, and was giving orders for a 
 simultaneous attack by his whole force. Alas, for 
 him ! it was not Grouchy, but Bulow and Blucher 
 with sixty thousand fresh troops. 
 
 A shout of exultation ran through the allied lines. 
 Napoleon saw that all was lost unless he could break 
 the English lines before the union of the allied armies, 
 which had stood like a stone wall against the dread- 
 ful assaults of the French. He now ordered up his 
 reserve guard, which had never failed him, into battle. 
 As these world-renowned old soldiers, under Marshal 
 Ney, defiant of death, pressed on, piercing the British 
 lines, it is said both armies gazed with awe upon the 
 scene. Marshal Ney, in a few moments, had six horses 
 shot from under him. With sabre in hand, he marched 
 on foot, leading his men into the very jaws of death. 
 Blucher, with his legions of infantry, cavalry and artil- 
 lery, like an avalanche, swept over this little band of 
 brave men, until, almost to a man, they were welter- 
 ing in blood. General Cambronne, who was bleeding 
 from a dozen wounds, was surrounded by a small 
 remnant of his men. A flag of truce was sent de- 
 manding a capitulation; Cambronne replied: "The 
 Guard dies, but never surrenders !" Thus heroically 
 perished the Imperial Guard, and Napoleon's star set 
 to rise no more. Napoleon escaped to Paris, carrying 
 the tidings of the terrible catastrophe at Waterloo, 
 
European Correspondence. 257 
 
 which threw the city into confusion and despair. See- 
 ing that all was lost, Napoleon abdicated in favor of 
 his son, and attempted to escape to America ; but 
 this was impossible, as the French coast was block- 
 aded from Brest to Bayonne. He finally determined 
 to throw himself upon the hospitality of the British 
 nation, claiming the protection of their court. The 
 English, having the French lion in their possession, 
 determined to place him where he could do no more 
 mischief. The Government sent him a prisoner, for 
 life, to St. Helena, a small island in the Atlantic 
 Ocean, between the Continents of Africa and South 
 America. 
 
 Six years of humiliation, suffering and anguish, 
 broke the heart of the greatest military chieftain that 
 ever lived. Napoleon was not only a great military 
 hero, but he was also a brilliant statesman. 
 
 Let us but cast our eyes over the pages of history, 
 and we find that Ambition is the rock on which most 
 of the great military heroes perish. Alexander, after 
 having climbed the Alpine heights of ambition, looked 
 down upon the conquered nations, and wept because 
 there was not another world to conquer. He died 
 among strangers in a miserable debauch. Hannibal 
 crossed the ice-clad Alps and put to flight the armies 
 of the mistress of the world. After having stained 
 his hands in the blood of his fellow-creatures, he put 
 an end to his miserable existence by committing 
 suicide. Caesar, after conquering a thousand cities, 
 and murdering a million of his foes, was assassinated 
 by his friends. Bonaparte, who had filled the earth 
 33 
 
258 European Correspondence. 
 
 with the terror of his name, became a lonely exile. 
 Such was the wretched fate of four of the greatest 
 military men in ancient or modern times. These 
 men lived only to make earth a vale of tears. They 
 were great men in the world's acceptation, but their 
 greatness consisted only in their great capacity for 
 evil, and the unscrupulous readiness with which they 
 did the work of Moloch. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Waterloo, Belgium, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-FOURTH. 
 
 Return to Paris — Picture Galleries of the Louvre — 
 Place de la Concorde — Arc he Trioniphe — Garden of 
 Plants — Hotel de Cluny — Government Porcelain 
 Establishment. 
 
 In Paris again ! Yes, gentle reader, this maelstrom 
 of Europe has once more drawn me into its vortex. 
 After a tour of many thousand miles over the Conti- 
 nent, I have come to the conclusion that there is but 
 one Paris. I must not forget, however, in the excite- 
 ment and attractions of this grand city, that I have 
 anxious friends awaiting my return to the New World. 
 I know they will excuse me for once more reviewing 
 with renewed interest, and more understandingly, the 
 thousand and one objects of interest to be found here. 
 
European Correspondence. 259 
 
 One of the seven wonders of the world is the 
 museum of the Louvre of Paris. I have already- 
 spent many days in wandering through gallery after 
 gallery, my eyes feasting on the exquisite works of 
 celebrated artists of all ages and nations. The huge 
 collection comprising the museum would require 
 almost a lifetime of study. The " Grand Gallery " 
 unites the Louvre with the Palace of the Tuileries by 
 a succession of galleries two thousand feet in length . 
 The long walls are covered with rare paintings, and 
 the arched ceilings are beautifully painted in fresco e. 
 Among the great masters, next to Raphael, Rubens 
 is my favorite. The " Conception," by Murillo, is one 
 of the gems of the gallery. The Virgin is repre- 
 sented ascending with clasped hands to heaven ; the 
 crescent moon is at her feet, while the air around is 
 filled with angel-children. Quite a number of large 
 rooms are devoted entirely to the works of French 
 masters. Artists are here from all sections taking 
 copies of the best pictures. In looking through the 
 long rooms of sculpture, representing as they do arts 
 in the ancient, middle and modern ages, one is led to 
 believe that the ancients were quite as skilled in arts 
 and science as are the people of the present day. 
 
 The Louvre was originally a kingly residence, but 
 is now devoted to the royal museum of paintings, 
 sculpture, and the like, forming, as it does, the most 
 extensive collection of fine arts in the world. These 
 galleries were enriched by the conquests of Napoleon. 
 Twenty large rooms on the ground floor are filled 
 with sculpture — many of the best pieces once embel- 
 
260 European Correspondence. 
 
 lished ancient Rome, but were transferred to Paris by 
 the conquering armies of France. A stranger wanders 
 through the galleries so profusely filled with gems of 
 art. At first, his mind becomes bewildered, and it 
 is only after repeated visits that he is fully able to 
 comprehend and appreciate the rich treasures so boun- 
 tifully spread around him. I do not believe there is 
 another city on the globe where the people are so 
 joyous and gay as are the inhabitants of Paris. There 
 is so much here to contribute to the happiness of 
 childhood, youth, and old age. Oh ! what treasures 
 are these beautiful gardens ; they are truly the lungs 
 of this great metropolis. It is surprising to see how 
 the rich and poor flock to them from early morning 
 till late at night. Here you sip your cafe and listen 
 to the most enchanting music ; the gentle sparrows 
 skip around your feet, and pick crumbs from the chil- 
 dren's tiny fingers. The birds of the forest are also 
 attracted to these beautiful groves, adding their sweet 
 notes to the music ; here they build nests, and rear 
 their young in the branches of the beautiful shade 
 trees. Again I wander to ''Place de la Concorde" 
 where the Queen, Marie Antoinette, fell under the 
 Jacobin guillotine, and where Louis XVI and many 
 other nobles of France shared the same fate. These 
 grounds were made red with the best blood of France. 
 What a change ! Here you now find the most enchant- 
 ing spot in Paris. In the centre of " Place de la Con- 
 corde " stands a column one hundred feet high ; its 
 sides are covered with Egyptian hieroglyphics, ex- 
 ecuted more than three thousand years ago. This 
 
European Correspondence. 261 
 
 old relic of Egyptian antiquity stood before the Tem- 
 ple at Thebes fifteen hundred years before the birth 
 of Christ. From this point you cast your eyes to the 
 east, and you see the garden of the Tuileries and the 
 palace of Napoleon III ; to the north is the magnificent 
 Church of the Madeleine. Its noble proportions, its 
 splendid architecture, its gorgeously rich exterior 
 and interior, its decorations and fine paintings, with 
 which its walls are adorned, all these render it the 
 most beautiful and interesting work of art that I have 
 seen in Europe. The lover of the beautiful will not 
 tire in looking upon this unsurpassed and wonderful 
 church edifice. To the south, is the Chamber of 
 Deputies, which you reach by crossing a massive 
 stone bridge over the River Seine ; to the west are the 
 Elysian Fields, the fairy land of Paris. This Eden is 
 a quarter of a mile wide, and one and a half in length. 
 In the centre of these grounds is the grand avenue of 
 Champs Elysces, which leads to the Arclie Triomphe. 
 This monument, like ■ everything that is grand and 
 imposing, improves on a second visit. The drive up 
 the Champs Elysces is thronged with brilliant equi- 
 pages and splendid equestrians. It is unsurpassed for 
 its beauty and grandeur. Here you see Paris in her 
 gayest and most brilliant uniform. In this mass of 
 human beings mingle royalty and democracy, king 
 and peasant — all seem to be in quiet pursuit of com- 
 fort, pleasure, and pure air. Art and nature have 
 conspired to give the Arclie Triomphe a happy loca- 
 tion, and it is the most stupendous structure of the 
 kind ever erected. Its cost exceeds ten millions of 
 
262 European Correspojidence. 
 
 francs. This monument is the work of Napoleon ; 
 built to celebrate his victories and butcheries ! 
 
 Again I wander in the Garden of Plants, which inter- 
 ested me so much during my first visit to Paris. In 
 all my travels on the Continent I found nothing of 
 the kind that surpassed this enchanting spot. This is 
 an institution which combines science and pleasure. 
 Here is the magnificent cedar of Lebanon — a tree that 
 not even the Jacobin destructionists dared molest. 
 It is difficult to decide, while in the Garden of Plants 
 and the Museum of Natural History, which depart- 
 ment you most admire. When in the division devoted 
 to botany, looking at the myriads of luxuriant plants 
 and trees from every part of the habitable globe, you 
 think this the sweetest spot, and so it is ; but when 
 you enter the zoological department, filled with ani- 
 mals and fowls from the four quarters of the globe, 
 together with a vast collection of objects intended to 
 illustrate different branches of natural history, from 
 the mammoth whale to the infant not a span long, 
 one cannot but be deeply interested. Connected with 
 the " yardin des Plantes" is a college with twenty 
 professors, who give lectures on natural history, anat- 
 omy, chemistry, mineralogy, geology and physic 
 applied to natural history ; besides there are masters 
 who give lessons in drawing and painting flowers. 
 
 Hotel de Cluny, one of the ancient mansions of 
 Paris, interested me on account of its antiquity, and 
 the rare collection of antique curiosities it contains. 
 The ancient appearance of the building attracted my 
 attention, and my curiosity was further excited on 
 
European Correspondence. 263 
 
 learning that some two thousand years ago it was the 
 residence of Roman Governors of Gaul, and it was 
 here Julian resided when he was proclaimed Governor 
 of Rome. The modern portion of the edifice has been 
 successively a nunnery, a palace, a prison, a revolu- 
 tionary hall, and now a museum. It is certainly one 
 of the most curious places I have seen in the Old 
 World. The collection of historical antiquities is a 
 huge treasure of wonders. 
 
 Knowing Mrs. W.'s proclivities for fine porcelain 
 and exquisite cut glass, I visited the Government 
 works a few miles out of Paris, and made some selec- 
 tions that I think will please the good folks at home. 
 The rich and costly vases here exceed anything 
 beyond American conception. The establishment, 
 like all Government works in France, is on a grand 
 scale, and present a rare museum of every variety of 
 earthenware ; here you find costly porcelain from 
 China, Japan, India, and from almost every kingdom 
 in Europe. The French surpass all nations in cut 
 glass and perfect mirrors. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Paris, September, 1866. 
 
LETTER TWENTY-FIFTH 
 
 Visit to St. Cloud — Napoleon III — Versailles — Leaving 
 Paris — Rouen — Cathedral — Joan of Arc — Her In- 
 human Murder. 
 
 As I did not see Napoleon III, when last 
 in Paris, and not wishing to return to America 
 without looking upon so great and distinguished 
 a personage, I went to St. Cloud for that pur- 
 pose. The emperor and empress were spending a 
 few weeks at St. Cloud, which is their summer 
 retreat. At 5 P. M., he and his family drove in 
 an open carriage through the park, to the delight 
 of those who, like myself, came here to gaze upon 
 royalty. 
 
 The emperor is looking care-worn, and the em- 
 press does not appear as young and fresh as her 
 pictures indicate. 
 
 St. Cloud is quite a village, on the left bank of the 
 Seine, six miles from Paris, and on the railway to 
 Versailles. The fine chateau of St. Cloud, originally 
 the property of the Duke of Orleans, was long the 
 favorite abode of the kings of France. It has an 
 extensive park and fine fountains. Henry IV was 
 assassinated here, by Jacques Clement, in 1589. It 
 was at St. Cloud the first Napoleon broke up the 
 
European Correspondence. 265 
 
 assembly of " Five hundred." Their proceedings 
 displeased young Bonaparte, and he determined 
 to bring matters to a decisive issue. He placed 
 himself at the door of the assembly amid the 
 shouts, "Down with the dictator!" "Down with 
 the bayonets!" "Outlaw the bayonet!" It is said 
 Napoleon grew pale, and resolutely determined to 
 employ armed force for the purpose of expelling 
 the refractory council from its place of meeting. 
 
 The word of command was given, and the grena- 
 diers, led by Murat, (afterwards the brother-in-law 
 of Napoleon,) entered the hall with fixed bayonets. 
 The representatives fled in all directions. Napoleon 
 caused himself to be proclaimed First Consul. This 
 was in November, 1799. Thus perished the short- 
 lived republic, which to establish deluged France 
 in blood. Napoleon was now supreme governor 
 of all he surveyed, and he ruled the refractory 
 people of France with an iron rod. Nothing but 
 a master mind and a master will could deal 
 with the Jacobin spirit which spread not only 
 throughout France, but throughout the Continent 
 of Europe. 
 
 Who has not heard of Versailles, and read of its 
 grand palace and splendid paintings? I do not know 
 when I have spent a day with more intense interest 
 than the one devoted to an excursion to Versailles. 
 It is said that the folly and extravagance of Louis 
 XVI, in building this city, was the baleful seed sown 
 which afterwards produced the French Revolution. 
 These old hunting grounds were converted into mag- 
 34 
 
266 European Correspondence. 
 
 nificent palaces and fountains, on a scale grand and 
 costly almost beyond conception. Nowhere in Eu- 
 rope have I seen fountains equal to those of Ver- 
 sailles. The palaces of Vienna and Berlin will not 
 compare, in cost or magnificence, with those to be 
 found in this Parisian suburb ; and the Museum of 
 Fine Arts here is almost equal to those of Paris or 
 any other city. The length of the palace is fourteen 
 hundred feet, and the central front, projecting on the 
 west, is two hundred and seventy-five feet beyond 
 the wings. These large halls and galleries are filled 
 with historical collections. It required many hours 
 to walk through the various departments, merely 
 having time to make a cursory inspection of their 
 contents. One of the wonders of the palace is 
 the gallery of magnificent mirrors, two hundred 
 and fifty feet long, forty wide, and forty-two high, 
 reflecting, as they do, the beautiful grounds and 
 gardens. 
 
 The fountains play only on Sunday. The finest 
 basins are those of Neptune, Latona and Apollo. 
 From the basin of Neptune a broad and beautiful 
 avenue leads to the lake, with a miniature Swiss vil- 
 lage built on its banks by Marie Antoinette. Ver- 
 sailles at one time had a population of one hundred 
 thousand; it is now reduced to thirty thousand. The 
 streets are wide and clean, and are lined with many 
 elegant houses. The pure air, refreshing fountains, 
 and fine promenades, and close proximity to Paris, 
 make it a most delightful summer retreat. I find if I 
 linger in and around Paris until I visit all the objects 
 
European Correspondence. 267 
 
 of interest, and satisfy my curiosity, I shall never 
 again see "sweet home." I must, then, bid a long 
 adieu to these French luxuries and pleasures. 
 
 I would advise any one who possesses taste and 
 the means for enjoying any refinement which wealth 
 can command, to go to France. What nature lacks 
 has been supplied with a liberal hand by art and 
 science. 
 
 Three hours' travel by the lightning train, through 
 a beautiful and highly cultivated country, and we find 
 ourselves in the quaint old City of Rouen, so full of 
 antique history. 
 
 In passing through the land of the daring and 
 chivalrous Normans, the mind is crowded with his- 
 torical associations which lend a thrilling interest to 
 this old domain, once the battle-ground of Julius 
 Caesar, by whom it was conquered before the Chris- 
 tian era. 
 
 At one time a prey to the Roman powers, then 
 overrun by the Germanic nations, who poured down 
 from their Scandinavian caves with the relentless 
 fierceness of hungry wolves, leaving their bloody 
 tracks through the hills and valleys of Normandy. 
 
 England, the grand old monarch of Europe, as 
 usual, took her part in the struggles, and came in 
 for the lion's share of the spoils. 
 
 Normandy was long the fruit coveted by England 
 and France, and was successively governed by those 
 nations until England committed the great crime 
 of inhumanly burning alive an innocent French 
 girl. From the time of this cruel act, fate turned 
 
268 European Correspondence. 
 
 against the English, and her kings and queens 
 never again tyrannized over the brave and .resolute 
 Normans. 
 
 In Rouen there are many antiquities of deep and 
 thrilling interest. The most striking of these is the 
 celebrated Cathedral of Notre Dame. It is regarded 
 as one of the noblest structures of the kind in Europe. 
 The cathedral is one hundred and ten feet wide, and 
 in length four hundred and fifty. As you gaze upon 
 its huge proportions, the mind is overwhelmed with 
 its vastness and curious workmanship. Its gorgeously 
 ornamented front has three splendid portals, over 
 which is a central tower, surrounded by an iron spire, 
 mounting to the dizzy height of four hundred and 
 sixty feet. 
 
 On entering this immense Gothic structure, you 
 look upon the splendid architecture, monuments, 
 statues, and pictures almost without number. Here 
 the light is pouring in from one hundred and forty 
 windows, through stained glass of almost every shape 
 and color. The sensation produced is overpowering, 
 partaking, perhaps, more of the feeling of awe than of 
 religious sentiment. 
 
 A visit of a day will not admit of taking in the 
 vast proportions of this wonderful church edifice, 
 and its marvellous and interesting decorations. Near 
 the old market is a monument which stands to 
 perpetuate the shame of England and the ingrati- 
 tude of France for the great crime of consigning, 
 in 143 1, to the flames, Joan of Arc, the heroine of 
 Orleans. 
 
European Correspondence, 269 
 
 For the benefit of your young readers I will give a 
 brief sketch of this remarkable French girl. 
 
 While en route from Paris to Switzerland, I passed 
 through the small town of Domrenny, and was 
 informed that the celebrated Joan of Arc was born 
 there. Her parents were poor but respectable. She 
 spent the early portion of her life in a menial capac- 
 ity ; but, possessing genius of high order, she was 
 not long satisfied with playing the part of her father's 
 shepherd girl. Joan was noted, when a child, for her 
 sweetness of temper, industrious habits, and purity of 
 character. During that period in France when the 
 power had fallen from the hands of an imbecile king, 
 two leading houses of Orleans and Burgundy claimed 
 the throne. The latter called to their aid the English. 
 These foreigners made the unfortunate French feel 
 the horrors of war. 
 
 Political and party interest was forced upon the 
 mind of Joan. A prophesy being current that a virgin 
 should rid France of its enemies, this prediction fast- 
 ened itself on the mind of the maid that she was to 
 be the deliverer. Joan's determination to start, on 
 what she conceived to be a holy mission, was hast- 
 ened by the fact that a band of Burgundians plun- 
 dered the country, and compelled the young girl, with 
 her parents, to quit their homes and fly for safety. 
 When they returned they found their humble cottage, 
 and the Church of Domrenny, laid in ashes. Such 
 conduct, by the brutal soldiery, was well calculated 
 to fire the indignation of Joan. The fortunes of the 
 Dauphin Charles, at this time, were almost desperate. 
 
270 European Correspondence. 
 
 From childhood her attachment to the throne amount- 
 ed almost to idolatry. Her loyal and patriotic spirit 
 revolted at witnessing the misery and degradation of 
 her country under the oppression of the English, who 
 had united with the Burgundists against the Orleans 
 family. The City of Orleans was closely besieged, and 
 its deliverance became the cherished dream of Joan's 
 life. 
 
 The young girl religiously believed that she was 
 destined, under Providence, to be the deliverer of her 
 oppressed people. The enthusiastic Jeanne sought 
 an interview with the governor, and told him of her 
 supernatural " visions " and communications from St. 
 Michael and St. Catherine, by whom she was commis- 
 sioned to rescue her distressed monarch from his ene- 
 mies. At first she was treated as an impostor, but 
 her unusual intelligence and prepossessing manners 
 and appearance, inspired confidence in the governor, 
 and he yielded so far to her importunities as to 
 furnish her with an armed escort to the court- of 
 Charles. Enduring heroically the hardships of a 
 long, fatiguing march, she reached the court early in 
 1429, and was soon thereafter admitted to the pres- 
 ence of Charles. It is said she gave him satisfactory 
 proof of her inspiration by relating to him facts 
 which he believed to be known to none but God and 
 himself. 
 
 The king no longer doubted ; but, to remove all 
 suspicion from the public mind, subjected her char- 
 acter in all respects to be critcally scrutinized. She 
 proved to be pure and unimpeachable. At her earnest 
 
European Correspondence. 271 
 
 request she was dispatched to the relief of Orleans, 
 which had been for six months closely besieged by 
 the English and Burgundians. 
 
 She was furnished with a war-horse, and a complete 
 suit of armor, such as was worn by the warriors of 
 that day. A page bore her banner, with the motto 
 " Jesus Maria." Thus equipped she headed the French 
 army, and made a bold attack on the strongest point 
 of the English position. In the hottest of the fight 
 she received a severe wound in her bosom; quickly 
 recovering from the shock, she drew out the weapon 
 with her own hand, and rushed again to the front. 
 The French soldiers partook of her enthusiasm, and 
 borne along, as if by superhuman impulse, charged 
 the enemy with relentless fury, who, panic-stricken, 
 gave way after a brief struggle. The English 
 retreated hastily, and in great confusion, leaving 
 their baggage and artillery. The victorious deliverer 
 of Orleans urged Charles to march without delay 
 upon Reims. Step by step the Maid of Orleans 
 fought her way to Reims, and did not rest until her 
 prophesy was . fulfilled that " the Dauphin Charles 
 should be proclaimed king at Reims." The Maid of 
 Orleans was subsequently wounded at the siege of 
 Paris, and taken prisoner. Instead of treating her 
 honorably as a captive, the English gave her up to 
 pass through a mock trial. She was, by a bribed 
 jury, found guilty of "sorcery," and inhumanly con- 
 demned to be burnt alive ! A pile of wood was raised 
 near the market-house, and Joan, the heroic Maid of 
 Orleans, and deliverer of France, was placed upon it. 
 
272 European Correspondence. 
 
 When the flames curled around her she begged that 
 the image of Christ might be placed before her. 
 The last utterance of her lips was in fervent prayer 
 to her Saviour. All that was mortal of the beautiful 
 Maid of Orleans was reduced to ashes, and swept 
 into the Seine ; while her gentle spirit took its flight 
 to the better land. 
 
 It is difficult to know on whom to fix the ignominy 
 of this barbarous murder. The sad fate of Joan of 
 Arc is alike disgraceful to friend and foe ; at least 
 this is the opinion of 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Reims, September, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-SIXTH 
 
 London — The English Channel — Hills of Dover — Poor 
 of London — Commercial and Financial Crisis — Sight- 
 seeing — The Home of my Forefathers — Invitation 
 from a Charleston Friend. 
 
 A few days since our party were busily engaged at 
 the Hotel de Louvre, preparing to leave for England. 
 A little girl said, beseechingly, " Please don't go to 
 London, mamma, London is not a new place." No, 
 this city of cities is certainly not a new place, but it 
 is a metropolis in which every lover of antique his- 
 tory, of art, education, science and commerce, must 
 
European Correspondence. 273 
 
 visit with thrilling interest. To your young readers 
 who have been for so many long years shut up in 
 the closely besieged Confederacy, there is much to 
 them that is new, even within the dingy old walls 
 of London. 
 
 I left Rouen with four lady passengers, two of 
 whom were Americans, and two were Germans — the 
 latter were experienced travellers. I was glad of 
 an opportunity of availing myself of their previous 
 knowledge of the sights to be seen here. It is a 
 great advantage to travel with those who know what 
 is worth seeing, and where to find it. It was espe- 
 cially important to one whose time was as precious as 
 mine. A stranger is often terribly imposed upon by 
 guides and couriers, whose chief aim is to get your 
 money for the least possible labor. 
 
 At Dieppe we took passage on a fine steamer for 
 Dover, and bade a long farewell to the green hills of 
 La Belle Fra7ice. A shrill whistle, and the deck of 
 our steamer was soon crowded with passengers. 
 
 A moment more, and we were fairly launched 
 on the angry billows of the English Channel. As 
 usual in these waters, the sea was rough, and many of 
 the passengers were sick almost unto death. A gen- 
 tleman administered brandy to his distressed wife 
 pretty freely. Between the rolling of the ship and the 
 effects of the liquor, she became frantic, kicked up a 
 general row, and threatened to murder the captain 
 if he did not put on more steam and land her 
 quickly at Dover. 
 35 
 
274 Europe mi Correspondence. 
 
 The captain quietly remarked that he thought we 
 already had most too much steam on the ship for the 
 comfort of the passengers. She threw a glass tumbler 
 at his head, to the great mortification of her gentle- 
 manly looking husband, and the discomfort of the 
 captain. An officer took charge of our -belligerent 
 passenger, and the last I heard of her she was scream- 
 ing "more steam" and "more brandy!" I have 
 heard travellers say they had rather cross the Atlantic 
 than the English Channel. The day was bright and 
 lovely. I have been tossed about so much on land 
 and sea, I have grown hardy, and am seldom sick. 
 I was as comfortable as if sailing on a smooth 
 lake ; but I must confess that I felt sad when I saw 
 the old Continent gradually fading from my natural 
 vision. Its treasures of cities, mountains, valleys 
 and lakes, are carefully locked up in memory's 
 recesses. These reminiscences of the Old World 
 will furnish me and the loved ones at home many a 
 pleasant hour in living them over again. As one glory 
 fadeth away another appeareth, at least such has been 
 my good fortune. I leave the accumulated glories of 
 the Continent, and I enter upon the enchanting scenes 
 of Great Britain. Before me stand the bold and 
 chalk-like cliffs of old Dover, and now I am safely 
 landed on English soil ! How my heart beats as the 
 histories of this little island crowd upon me, and 
 as I hear the sweet and familiar tone of my mother 
 tongue, I can scarcely refrain from embracing my 
 cousins, who speak a language never before so sweet 
 to my ear ; and, at this point, let me urge upon every 
 
European Correspondence. 275 
 
 man and woman who has any idea of visiting the 
 Continent, to learn at least the French language ; 
 and a little German would aid in directing your hack- 
 man to drive you to a hotel, and not to the king's 
 palace. As I stood upon the soil of Old England, 
 somehow -a feeling of home, dear home, came over 
 me ! Oh, how my heart flew to the loved ones over 
 the vast Atlantic ! But enough — here are the hills of 
 Dover, covered with the strongest fortifications, keep- 
 ing a watchful eye upon the restless enemy of Eng- 
 land. I learned that one of the old cannons, which 
 pointed over the channel, had written on it — 
 
 " Keep me dry, and keep me clean, 
 
 And I will carry a ball to Calais green." 
 
 It was here that the ambitious Caesar first planted 
 his foot, his terror, and his power upon English soil. 
 What a narrow space separates two powerful nations, 
 as unlike in tastes, manners and habits, as in language. 
 And here, again, I will take the liberty of giving my 
 American friends a little advice : before making a tour 
 of the Continent, if possible, visit Great Britain. It 
 has been my fortune, however, to take the plum pud- 
 ding first, and then the roast beef. English beef is 
 not to be despised, even after having been feasted on 
 the dainties of Paris, Vienna and Berlin, and on the 
 pates de foie gras of Strasburg. 
 
 At Dover, our baggage was taken charge of and 
 transferred to the customhouse to undergo a strict 
 search. An Israelite — I cannot say " in whom there 
 was no guile " — was overhauled by the eagle-eyed 
 
276 European Correspondence. 
 
 government officers, and his goods confiscated for an 
 attempt to smuggle. As I had four lady passengers 
 under my wing, the Brussels lace that I selected for 
 my American queen was not considered contraband. 
 
 The railway to London lies through a beautiful and 
 highly cultivated country. On our left, we had a 
 view of the wide-renown Crystal Palace. 
 
 We are now in London, the world's great Babel, 
 the heart of the British Empire, and the financial cir- 
 cle of the Universe. We stopped in the West End, 
 at the Langham Hotel, where we found comfortable 
 quarters. I was up bright and early, and requested 
 the clerk to show me on the map what part of the 
 City of London we were in, and was quite surprised 
 to learn, notwithstanding we had driven for miles 
 through streets lined with elegant mansions, we were 
 still two miles out of London proper. 
 
 Since my arrival I have been learning the geogra- 
 phy of this mammoth metropolis. One of the best 
 means of seeing a city is to take a box seat with the 
 driver — a small pecuniary recognition will make him 
 very accommodating and communicative; he will 
 take pleasure in pointing out every place of interest 
 on his entire route. 
 
 These public conveyances run from and to the 
 most noted places, passing through the best and most 
 frequented streets. You can ride in these convey- 
 ances, until you are bewildered at sight-seeing, for 
 six cents. 
 
 To one unaccustomed to large cities, it is difficult 
 to realize the extent and vastness of London. 
 
European Correspondence. 277 
 
 This wonder of the world lies on both sides of the 
 River Thames, and is twelve miles long and six wide. 
 Its population is four times that of the State of South 
 Carolina. Here you find wealth and plenty, aristoc- 
 racy and beggary ; Fifth-avenue palaces and Five- 
 point rookeries ; two thousand churches and ten 
 thousand gambling saloons ; a few thousand men and 
 women of leisure and culture ; and two millions 
 ground down by overwork and underpay. 
 
 The poor have a hard, hard time of it in London. 
 On all sides you see evidences of pinching want and 
 wretchedness. 
 
 With these poor creatures it is not how much they 
 can lay up from their toil, but the fight from morn- 
 ing till night is to get bread for the tattered and 
 hungry children. You will find yourself asking the 
 question, " Why do these destitute people remain in 
 London ? " The answer is, " They have not the means 
 of getting away." And, further, thousands have no 
 knowledge of any country beyond the precincts of 
 their own dark damp cellars and crowded attics. 
 Talk to them about America, and they don't know 
 whether it is in China or Africa ; and this great me- 
 tropolis, with the concentrated wealth of the world at 
 its command, with its Bank of England, its Barings, 
 Rothchilds and Peabodies, send into the streets daily 
 hordes of beggars, many of them the mere skeletons 
 of men and women, in rags, with withered children 
 in their arms, begging for bread. The lame, the 
 blind, and the deformed crawl into the streets, im- 
 ploring alms ; and all these revolting and sickening 
 
278 European Correspondence. 
 
 sights are to be seen in the city that groaned over 
 the wretched condition of the American slave ; and 
 made a goddess of Madame Stowe for printing her 
 " Uncle Tom " misrepresentations. This is the city 
 that sends its missionaries to " Greenland's Icy Moun- 
 tains," and to " India's Burning Plains," to look after 
 the heathen, when the heathen are to be found by the 
 million at their very doors. It is said that " distance 
 lends enchantment to the view." I doubt not if these 
 wretched creatures, bone of their bone, and flesh of 
 their flesh, were in China or America, millions of 
 money could be raised in London to relieve their 
 miserable condition. In all cities you find extreme 
 poverty and great wealth ; the most abject destitu- 
 tion, and the most profuse and prodigal luxury. I 
 would not have you think the people of London were 
 not charitable. They not only devise but carry out 
 noble deeds. London has a thousand charitable in- 
 stitutions, and vast sums of public and private contri- 
 butions are expended in relieving the distresses of 
 the poor. It is said some six millions of dollars are 
 raised annually for these purposes ; but why do not 
 the public authorities, as in Paris, put a stop to the 
 annoying street begging? In the chief cities on the 
 Continent, beggars are only permitted to ask alms 
 on holyday occasions. 
 
 Perhaps I have presented the dark side of the pic- 
 ture of London, and it may be that I am here at a 
 very unfavorable time. The British Empire is now 
 passing through a terrible commercial and financial 
 crisis. For six consecutive months money has aver- 
 
European Correspondence. 279 
 
 aged ten per cent. Such a high rate of interest, for 
 so long a time, is almost without a precedent, in 
 England especially, when the country is free from 
 war. A year ago money was one and a half to two 
 and a half per cent. The failure of some large bankers 
 and commercial houses, have thrown distrust and 
 discredit upon the whole trading community. The 
 "bubbles of finance" have exploded, and have brought 
 ruin and bankruptcy upon many who counted their 
 wealth by the millions. These failures have been 
 brought about mainly by overtrading, speculation, 
 and a too free use of credit. " Promoters " of joint 
 stock companies, and of life insurance companies, 
 are a curse in all communities. These worthies 
 weave webs by day and by night, into which innocent 
 flies from the country and from the city, of both 
 sexes, become entangled; and the more they struggle 
 the closer the web is wrapped around them. These 
 land sharks are as dangerous as the counterfeiters, 
 for they " promote companies," knowing the con- 
 cern to be rotten to the core. These legalized 
 swindlers will rob a man of his lifetime earnings, 
 and go scot-free, while the man who passes a ten 
 pound counterfeit note pays the extreme penalty of 
 the law. 
 
 I hope you will not think, gentle reader, that 
 London is a poorhouse filled with beggars, or 
 that the capital of the banks and insurance com- 
 panies is made up of the " bubbles of finance ?" 
 Far from it. There is more wealth in a mile 
 square, taking the Bank of England as the centre, 
 
280 European Correspondence. 
 
 than there is in the same space in any other city 
 on the globe. Well, I have spent ten days in this 
 great, rich capital, scarcely taking time to eat or 
 sleep. 
 
 I have availed myself of the best possible means 
 of sight-seeing, regardless of cost, and I doubt whether 
 two eyes ever looked upon more grand sights in ten 
 days than mine have. But London cannot be com- 
 prehended in a week, a month, nor even in a year. 
 One must see it, walk and ride through its thorough- 
 fares, mingle with its vast population, travel under its 
 rivers, and on its rivers, through its underground rail- 
 ways, traverse its numerous parks, and then mount 
 the lofty dome of St. Paul's, and take a panoramic 
 view of the great metropolis, such as no other city 
 presents. The teeming millions of human beings 
 at our feet look like a great hive of busy bees 
 moving to and fro, some of them laying up food 
 for the winter of life ; but, alas ! there are among 
 them too many dronss, living upon the industry 
 and toil of their neighbors. In these ten days we 
 have seen all of the most remarkable objects in 
 London. My head is too dizzy, and my brain 
 too much crowded to attempt at this time a de- 
 scription of these grand sights. Before this is 
 attempted, body and mind must both have rest 
 and repose. With this conviction, I have decided 
 to leave London to-morrow, for the country, pass- 
 ing through England, Scotland, and return to Lon- 
 don again through Wales, once the home of my 
 forefathers. 
 
M 
 
 "■'« 
 
European Correspondence. 281 
 
 I have an invitation from my good Charleston 
 friend, Mrs. H. P. W., to make her a visit near 
 Colchester, which I gladly accept, as it will give me 
 an opportunity of seeing how English country gentry 
 live. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 London, September, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-SEVENTH. 
 
 Rose Cottage — Bury St. Edmunds — St. Mary's Church — 
 Edinburgh — Sir Walter Scott's Monument — Royal 
 Museum — National Gallery — Jolin Knox's House — 
 Holyrood Palace — Mary Queen of Scotts — Murder of 
 Rizzio — Linlithgow. 
 
 Having received a polite note from my esteemed 
 friend Mrs. H. P. W., the Queen of Her Majesty's 
 popular Consul at Charleston, inviting me to make 
 her a visit, I left London on the lightning train, which 
 carried me so swiftly through the beautifully culti- 
 vated fields and forests of rural England, that I did 
 not have a satisfactory view of the lovely scenery 
 which lay spread out on both sides of the railway. 
 
 The pure air and a sight of the blue sky, after being 
 shut up for ten days, surrounded with brick walls and 
 the dense fogs of London, were indeed refreshing. 
 36 
 
282 European Correspondence. 
 
 At the Colchester Depot I was met by my Charles- 
 ton friends. A short drive through winding roads, 
 bordered with green hedges, and I find myself at 
 Rose Cottage. In this quiet English home, was grace, 
 ease, and beauty. The welcome of new and the 
 familiar faces of old friends, was to me an oasis in a 
 foreign land. 
 
 I had, while on the Continent, looked upon so many 
 millions of strange people, and heard such a Babel of 
 foreign languages, it made me happy to gaze once 
 more upon a face that I had seen at my own home, 
 and to hear one speak my native tongue. Mrs. W. 
 and I talked over home, sweet home, until I almost 
 felt like taking passage to the loved ones there by 
 the cable line, instead of by the steamship China. As 
 I have much yet to see before crossing the Atlantic, 
 I must not linger in this little earthly paradise. In 
 this Eden there is forbidden fruit, but no serpent to 
 tempt, nor Adams to be tempted. 
 
 My friend, Mr. Walker, gave such a glowing ac- 
 count of the ancient town of Bury St. Edmunds, once 
 his home, and the city in which he began his profes- 
 sional career, I decided to spend a day there, and 
 wander among the ruins of the Old Abbey. 
 
 Bury St. Edmunds, a municipal and parliamentary 
 borough, is in the County of Suffolk, some seventy- 
 five miles from London. About one thousand years 
 ago, King St. Edmund lived and died here ; an Abbey 
 was founded in honor of the king, which became 
 one of the most magnificent in the Empire. Its 
 walls encircled, beside the monastery proper, a large 
 
European Correspondence. 283 
 
 churchyard, the abbot's palace, infirmaries, towers, a 
 garden, several chapels, and a splendid abbey church. 
 The abbot under whom were numerous monks, chap- 
 lains, and servants, enjoyed the broadest privileges, 
 even to the coining of money, and inflicting capital 
 punishment. 
 
 The most permanent relic left of these grand old 
 ruins, is one of the splendid arched ornamented gates. 
 Portions of the church have been converted into shops 
 and private residences. 
 
 The beautiful garden is still kept in good order. 
 Bury St. Edmunds has a population of fourteen thou- 
 sand. Its principal buildings are the town hall, which, 
 by the way, was originally a church. 
 
 The Church of St. Mary's, an ancient structure, 
 contains the tomb of Mary, Queen of France, daugh- 
 ter of Henry VII. 
 
 Bishop Gardiner, Bishop Bloomfield, of London, 
 and numerous other prominent men, were natives of 
 this town. 
 
 At 5 P. M. I left for Edinburgh. In a railway ride 
 from London to Edinburgh is presented to the travel- 
 ler rich and varied panoramic views. 
 
 On each side are luxuriant fields of grain and 
 meadows, dotted here and there with beautiful rural 
 homes almost hid with flowers and vines ; and now 
 you pass magnificient parks filled with grand old 
 oaks and other forest trees, the growth of centuries. 
 At last I am in dear old Scotland ; the land of the 
 heroic Wallace and Bruce; of the unfortunate Queen 
 Mary ; of John Knox, the Reformer ; of Burns, the 
 
284 European Correspondence. 
 
 poet ; of David Hume and Adam Smith ; and last, 
 though not least, of Sir Walter Scott, the greatest 
 author of ancient and modern times. 
 
 In many respects, Scotland, although the smallest, 
 is the most interesting division of Great Britain, being 
 divided into Highlands and Lowlands. These divis- 
 ions are filled with rugged mountains, fertile valleys, 
 and beautiful lakes, and abounds in ancient castellated 
 remains. 
 
 The soils are exceedingly diversified. Of the 
 twenty millions of acres of land not one-third of it is 
 suitable for cultivation ; but the highest hills produce 
 good pasturage for sheep, goats, and the like. 
 
 In extent of territory Scotland is about equal to 
 the State of South Carolina. Its population is three 
 million one hundred thousand. 
 
 We are now in Edinburgh. It is one of the hand- 
 somest located cities in Europe. As you approach it 
 one of the first objects that meet the eye is the old 
 castle perched on a high and almost precipitous rock. 
 I shall not forget my first impressions of this ancient 
 structure, which is so full of thrilling associations and 
 historical interest. The castle consists of a series of 
 irregular fortifications, and has an elevation of nearly 
 four hundred feet above the level of the sea. Here 
 you have a magnificent view of Edinburgh, the ocean, 
 and of the surrounding country. 
 
 There are accommodations in the barracks for two 
 thousand soldiers, and fifty thousand stand of arms. 
 Improvements in modern warfare have rendered 
 these fortifications almost useless. . 
 
European Correspondence. 285 
 
 The insignia of Scottish royalty consists of a 
 crown, a sceptre, and a sword of state, which are pre- 
 served and exhibited in the Crown Room. 
 
 On the ground floor is a small apartment where 
 Queen Mary gave birth to James VI, of Scotland, 
 afterwards James I, of England ; thus uniting the 
 crowns of the two kingdoms and putting a stop to 
 the frequent wars between the two rival powers. 
 
 The pride of Edinburgh is Princess street. This 
 broad, straight avenue, is a mile in length, and is 
 separated from the old town by pleasant grounds, 
 called Princess-street Gardens. In these gardens, 
 nearly opposite the Royal Hotel, stands the handsome 
 spiral monument erected to the memory of Sir Wal- 
 ter Scott. This seems to be a waste of money, as 
 the memory of the celebrated novelist is stamped on 
 every hill, nook and corner of his native land. The 
 height of the monument is two hundred feet, and it 
 cost nearly one hundred thousand dollars. 
 
 Below the canopy of the monument is a marble 
 statue of the great author in a sitting posture, attended 
 by his favorite dog, Bevis. 
 
 The Royal Museum stands about the centre of 
 Princess street. It contains a valuable collection of 
 Celtic and Roman antiquities. The National Gallery 
 of paintings is worthy of a visit. It was established 
 in 1850, by the late Prince Albert. The collection 
 includes some fine specimens of Vandyke, Titian, 
 Veronese, Rembrandt, and others. Among the few 
 works of sculpture in these rooms is the statue of 
 Burns. The national monument, near by, is intended 
 
286 European Correspondence. 
 
 to commemorate the heroes who fell at Waterloo. 
 The work, so far as completed, exhibits the skill of 
 the Edinburgh masonry ; but, like the Washington 
 Monument, in our Capital, it stands unfinished for 
 the want of pecuniary means. 
 
 My guide pointed out the house of John Knox, the 
 great Presbyterian Reformer. It is a granite building, 
 more than three centuries old. 
 
 The Parliament House, and the Chambers or Town 
 Hall, are both objects of interest to the traveller. 
 
 I viewed with more than ordinary interest Holy- 
 rood Palace, the ancient residence of Scottish royalty. 
 The picture gallery, the largest hall in the palace, is 
 filled with a hundred of DeWitts' daubs of Scottish 
 kings. In this hall, however, there is a fine portrait 
 of Queen Mary. At the end of the gallery are four 
 historical paintings, recently sent from the royal 
 collection at Hampton Court, representing James 
 III and his Queen, Margaret of Denmark, at devotion. 
 Queen Mary's apartments are the most interesting 
 in the palace, and remain pretty much in the same 
 condition as when last occupied by the unfortunate 
 princess. 
 
 Passing through the Audience Chamber, you enter 
 Queen Mary's bedroom, with its ancient bed and other 
 furniture. 
 
 On one side of the room is the door of the secret 
 passage by which the conspirators, headed by Lord 
 Darnley, entered. Adjoining is the closet where 
 they found their victim, Rizzio. This favorite of the 
 queen was murdered in her presence, receiving from 
 
European Correspondence. 287 
 
 the hands of the assassins fifty odd stabs. The spot 
 where the unfortunate victim lay is identified by marks 
 of blood still visible. 
 
 The old Abbey of Holyrood House is interesting 
 'for its ancient architecture and great antiquities, hav- 
 ing been built in 1 128. In the Royal Vault of this 
 old church were deposited the remains of many of 
 the kings and queens of Scotland. 
 
 The unfortunate Rizzio's grave is in the passage 
 leading from the quadrangle. The queen was sus- 
 pected of being too intimate with the Italian musician. 
 Poor Mary was, doubtless, charged with many crimes 
 and intrigues of which she was innocent. 
 
 History does not furnish a character of the gentler 
 sex of whom so much has been written for and 
 against, as of Mary Queen of Scots; one class of 
 writers paint her as a saint, while another describes 
 her as a demon. Her guilt or innocence will not be 
 settled until the Great Book is opened and the Judge 
 of the good and bad shall pass sentence. Among 
 her most notorious female enemies were Queen Eliza- 
 beth and Catherine de Medicis. 
 
 Mary's father, James V, died before his successor 
 was permitted to look upon the blue skies of her 
 native hills. 
 
 The intrigues, jealousies and bickerings of her rela- 
 tions and supposed friends, made it necessary that 
 Mary Stuart should be sent abroad. 
 
 The education of the young and beautiful girl, in 
 the gay and fashionable schools of France, did not 
 improve her morals, however much they polished her 
 manners. 
 
288 European Correspondence. 
 
 The jealousy of Elizabeth, and the opposition of 
 the Knoxites to Mary's religion, had much to do in 
 hastening her career to an early and untimely issue. 
 
 For nineteen long years the young Queen of Scot- 
 land was incarcerated in dismal English prisons. On 
 the 7th of February, 1588, Mary was commanded to 
 prepare for death. 
 
 At 8 o'clock, next morning, Mary repaired to the 
 spot appointed for her execution, placed her head on 
 the fatal block, and at the second stroke of the execu- 
 tioner it was severed from her body. Such was the 
 tragical death of the beautiful Mary, in the forty-fifth 
 year of her age. This inhuman murder was the dark- 
 est of the many dark deeds of Queen Elizabeth. No 
 person can visit Scotland without feeling an interest 
 in Queen Mary. 
 
 A few hours drive from Edinburgh, and I find my- 
 self at Linlithgow, the birthplace of the celebrated 
 Queen of Scotland. 
 
 The old palace is a massive edifice, situated on an 
 eminence, which advances a little way into the lake. 
 Although in ruins it is visited by nearly every travel- 
 ler, and will be remembered as one of the most noted 
 relics in Scotland. 
 
 The internal architecture is fine, but the exterior is 
 massive and unsightly, as it is not relieved by win- 
 dows. Royalty in those days did not enjoy the 
 luxury of windows. Palaces were more like strong 
 fortifications than the residences of kings and ,queens. 
 
 Edinburgh is celebrated for its literary and educa- 
 tional institutions. Of these the University deserves 
 the first notice. 
 
European Correspondence. 289 
 
 Its library contains more than one hundred thou- 
 sand volumes. 
 
 Literature and the professions are not only the 
 glory of Edinburgh but affords the chief source of 
 employment to her population. 
 
 A stranger is struck with the well-polished brass 
 plates which surmount nearly every door of the neat 
 and well kept private residences. 
 
 The custom or fashion of deserting these comfort- 
 able homes during the summer months, prevails here 
 to the same extent as in London, Paris, and other 
 large European cities. 
 
 But change is the fashion, and I must not linger 
 longer in this literary city. 
 
 Ever yours, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Edinburgh, October, 1866. 
 
 37 
 
LETTER TWENTY-EIGHTH 
 
 City of Aberdeen — Home of William Birnie — Inver- 
 ness — Caledonian Canal — Falls of Foyers — Urquhart 
 Castle — Language of the Highlanders — Oban — 
 Fort William — Dunolly Castle — FingaVs Cave — Iona 
 Island — Beautiful Lakes — A Fla?ik Movement. 
 
 A swift railway ride of one hundred and thirty-five 
 miles from Edinburgh, through a picturesque coun- 
 try, and I arrive safely at Aberdeen, a city doubly 
 dear to me, as it was once the home of my late friend 
 Wm. Birnie, of South Carolina, and is now the home 
 of his brother, Mr. George Birnie, who some half a 
 century ago was a merchant of Charleston, S. C. I 
 spent a pleasant day with Mr. Birnie at Johnston, 
 near Aberdeen. He is a gentleman of the old Scotch 
 school. Although it has been many years since he 
 was in Charleston, yet he felt a deep interest and 
 sympathy for her people during the trials and perils 
 of the Confederacy. 
 
 The charter of this substantial town dates back to 
 William the Lion, in 1178. Union street, which is a 
 mile in length, would do credit to London. It pre- 
 sents a vista of white granite, which gives this street 
 a grand and substantial appearance. 
 
 A few days since a handsome bronze monumental 
 statue of the late Prince Albert was uncovered here, 
 in the presence of a large concourse of people. 
 
European Correspondence. 291 
 
 The Roman Catholics are building, near Union 
 street, one of the finest granite cathedrals to be found 
 in Scotland. The harbor, which opens into the Ger- 
 man Ocean, with its quays and piers, stretches into 
 the sea two thousand three hundred feet ; some four 
 millions of dollars have been expended on the im- 
 provement of the harbor and the formation of the 
 docks, which covers an area of thirty-four acres. The 
 tonnage of vessels registered as belonging to the port 
 is upwards of eighty thousand tons. There are in 
 Aberdeen and its vicinity extensive factories of wool, 
 cotton, flax, paper, combs and iron, which employ 
 fifteen thousand hands. The dressed granite stones, 
 such as are used on Union street, form a staple 
 export. Steamers ply regularly between Aberdeen, 
 London, Leith, and Hull. 
 
 A pleasant ride of one hundred miles from Aber- 
 deen, through a fine country, and I arrive safely at 
 Inverness. This town, of twelve thousand five hun- 
 dred inhabitants, is considered headquarters for the 
 hardy Highlanders ; here I find large stores filled 
 with the handiwork of these industrious, frugal people. 
 
 Inverness is situated at the mouth of the River 
 Ness, at the spot where the basins of the Moray and 
 Bennly Firths, and the great Glen of Scotland, meet 
 one another. 
 
 I am now on the celebrated Caledonian Canal, 
 which, in its day, was the mammoth work of the 
 Highlanders of Scotland. It required fifty hard 
 years' labor to complete it, at a cost of many mil- 
 lions of dollars. 
 
292 European Correspondence. 
 
 By reference to a map of Scotland, it will be seen 
 the natural channels formed by the lakes, beginning 
 near Inverness and running nearly due south, consti- 
 tute a large link in this important public highway, 
 which connects the waters of the German and Atlan- 
 tic Oceans. To one accustomed to the lightning rail- 
 way trains, speeding you a mile a minute, it is 
 poco-a-poco business to mope along on a canal boat. 
 But the varied and beautiful scenery, which is spread 
 out on every side, compensates for this slow and tedi- 
 ous mode of travelling. When passengers are tired 
 of the steamer they amuse themselves by walking, 
 and have no fears of being left. 
 
 Fourteen miles from Inverness are the falls of Foyers. 
 
 " Among the healthy hills and rugged woods, 
 The roaring Foyers pours his mossy floods, 
 Till full he dashes on the rocky mounds, 
 Where through a shapeless breach his stream resounds." 
 
 To one who has looked upon Niagara, with its ocean 
 of water plunging over a precipitous precipice of 
 nearly two hundred feet, these European falls, which 
 are so much admired, appear, when compared to the 
 great American cataract, mere Tom Thumb affairs. 
 But a waterfall is to me a pleasant sight, if the 
 stream tumbles only over a few feet of cliffs and rug- 
 ged rocks. 
 
 Professor Wilson describes Foyers as "the most 
 magnificent cataract in Britain." In point of magni- 
 tude and volume of water it will not compare even with 
 Tallulah. There are in the vicinity of Nacoochee Val- 
 ley, Georgia, three falls equal to this Scotch cascade. 
 
European Correspondence. 293 
 
 The high and naked mountain, Mealfournoinie, is 
 seen from this point, rising almost perpendicularly- 
 some three thousand one hundred feet ; and near by- 
 are the ruins of Urquhart Castle. This ancient fort 
 looks down upon the lake, which at this point is 
 said to be one hundred and thirty fathoms deep. 
 Near by is Loch Mickly, a small but very pretty lake. 
 Loch Ness is nearly twenty-four miles in length, and 
 one and a fourth miles in breadth ; the depth is so 
 great it never freezes. 
 
 We next enter Loch Oich ; this lake forms the 
 summit level of the Caledonian Canal. Loch Lochy 
 is ten miles in length by one in breadth. Here you 
 have a fine view of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in 
 Scotland, being nearly five thousand feet above the 
 level of the sea, and the circumference at its base is 
 twenty-five miles. It has the appearance of a huge 
 pile of granitic masses. On its rugged brow vegeta- 
 ble life does not exist. Some of our party stopped 
 for the purpose of climbing to its dizzy, snow-capped 
 summit. If I could spare a day, should be pleased 
 to make the adventure. 
 
 We reached Fort William Saturday night, and 
 spent a quiet Sabbath there, and heard a sermon, but 
 it was all Dutch to me. I did not understand the 
 discourse, as it was in the Gaelic tongue. 
 
 The language of the Highlanders is the Erse or 
 Gaelic — a Celtic dialect bearing no analogy to Eng- 
 lish or French. The Highlanders comprising the 
 Gaelic family are supposed to have been refugees 
 from Ireland ; their alphabet consists of eighteen let- 
 ters — k, q, x, y and z are wanting. Their dress is 
 
294 European Correspondence. 
 
 as peculiar as their language. I have seen nothing 
 like it at home or abroad. They wear a short coat, 
 a plaid vest, and a kind of petticoat reaching scarcely 
 to the knees, which are left entirely uncovered ; and 
 as these limbs have been exercised pretty freely in 
 the open air, you may well imagine that, however 
 useful, they are not particularly ornamental. 
 
 The lower part of the legs are covered with short 
 hose. The garments are made of a checkered stuff 
 of various flashy colors. On the head is worn a 
 bonnet somewhat resembling a hat without a rim. 
 When in full dress a broad piece of tartan is worn 
 around the body, after the fashion of the Roman 
 toga. 
 
 The women wear high white caps without bonnets. 
 Their costumes are so arranged as to display a sub- 
 stantial pair of ankles. 
 
 These Highlands, or I may say the greater portion 
 of Scotland, was originally inhabited by savage tribes 
 of shepherd's and hunters, who were polygamists 
 and idolaters. They were brave, hardy, and lived in 
 miserable huts, disdaining the use of clothes. 
 
 The Romans vainly strove to conquer them. They 
 made treaties which would last only so long as the 
 Roman soldiers remained in arms amongst them. 
 The descendants of this almost barbarous race, are a 
 hardy and admirably framed people, full of bone and 
 muscle. They are generally void of beauty or humor, 
 but are remarkably shrewd. In religion they are as 
 stubborn as was the iron John Knox. Scotchmen do 
 not like to make promises, but when made you can 
 rely upon them. 
 
European Correspondence. 295 
 
 Just before arriving at Fort William, a mountaineer 
 drove to the boat a flock of sheep, and as I was 
 anxious to know something about the mode of raising 
 these useful animals, I began to question him on the 
 subject. The poor fellow shook his head. I regretted 
 his misfortune in being both deaf and dumb. He was 
 shortly after joined by one of his comrades, and I was 
 soon convinced that he could hear and speak as well 
 as any one — he spoke, however, in the Gaelic tongue, 
 but did not understand English. Fort William has 
 a population of three thousand, is one of the keys of 
 the Highlands, and is provided with a bomb-proof 
 magazine, barracks and the like. It is surrounded by 
 the wildest mountain scenery. We enter Loch Eil, 
 one of the prettiest lakes in the chain. Loch Linnhe, 
 is the last of the lakes through which we pass from 
 Inverness to Oban. It is a beautiful scene when the 
 sunlight guilds the mountain points, and casts streaks 
 of light on the placid water inverting the mountains, 
 trees and houses on the borders of the lake, producing 
 a lovely and almost indescribable lake picture. 
 
 And now we are at Oban, the great rendezvous for 
 tourists to the Highlands, the lakes and mountains. 
 The town is handsomely situated on the margin of 
 a semi-circular bay, which boasts of a harborage for 
 vessels of the largest class. There is a brisk trade 
 carried on here with Glasgow and Ireland. 
 
 About half a mile from Oban, are the ruins of the 
 old castle of Dunolly, which are situated on a bold 
 and precipitous promontory overhanging the bay of 
 Oban. 
 
296 European Correspondence. 
 
 It was my intention to visit the Giant's Causeway 
 in Ireland, but a party that we met here gave us such 
 a glowing account of Fingal's Cave, which could be 
 visited from Oban in a day, we decided to look upon 
 this world's wonder and forego the trip to Belfast, at 
 which point we were to sail for the great Irish Cause- 
 way. 
 
 Leaving the busy pier of Oban in a fine steamer, 
 we sailed south, feeling our way cautiously as we 
 wound through narrow channels, filled with numerous 
 small islands. 
 
 A few hours and we are in the Sound of Mull, 
 which divides that island from the Continent of 
 Scotland. This small island is filled with lakes, and 
 has running through the centre a range of lofty 
 mountains. Here and there are old castles, giving it 
 an interesting and picturesque appearance. 
 
 About eight miles from the western coast of Mull, 
 is the small island of Staffa. 
 
 We are now conveyed from the steamer in row- 
 boats, into the mouth of Fingal's Cave. 
 
 The sailors are provided with hooks and short 
 poles, which they use with dexterity in guarding the 
 boat from being driven against the rocks, by the 
 " mighty surge that ebbs and swells." 
 
 We now penetrate a cave, one side of which ap- 
 pears bent like the ribs of a ship. The opposite side 
 is made up of horizontal columns, resembling the 
 surface of a honey-comb. This cave is thirty feet in 
 height, and eighteen in breadth, its length being one 
 hundred and thirty feet. 
 
European Correspondence. 297 
 
 Next occurs the Rock or Buachaille, a huge pile of 
 columns thirty feet high. These form a colonnade 
 along the whole face of the cliff to the entrance of 
 Fingal's Cave. This cave has an archway seventy- 
 five feet in height, supporting a massive entablature, 
 and receding about two hundred and thirty feet. 
 
 The entire front is made up of numerous ranges of 
 gigantic columns, beautifully pointed. The roof ex- 
 hibits a rich grouping of overhanging pillars, many 
 of them looking like white marble. 
 
 Nine miles south of Staffa is the celebrated Island 
 of Iona. In this lone island Saint Columbia, an Irish 
 Christian preacher, made his abode as early as the 
 sixth century. 
 
 The monks subsequently resided here. The remains 
 of an ancient church, nunnery and chapel, are still 
 standing. The cathedral is in the form of a cross. 
 Whatever may be its age, it now possesses enough of 
 " hoar antiquity " to throw a solemn grandeur over 
 the scene. 
 
 A massive square tower, rising seventy feet, marks 
 the graves of the early inhabitants of this island. 
 
 Staffa and Iona, with their surroundings, are the 
 wonders of Scotland. Every traveller who makes a 
 tour of the Highlands should visit them ; my word 
 for it they will be well repaid for their trouble. Fin- 
 gal's Cave is the gem of the islands, and a great nat- 
 ural curiosity. 
 
 Outside of Switzerland I have looked upon no 
 scenery more beautiful than is seen in the Highlands. 
 38 
 
298 European Correspondence. 
 
 Here you find the wildest of the wilds of Scotland ; 
 huge mountains, precipitous cliffs, beautiful lakes and 
 waterfalls. 
 
 A tour of Scotland is not made without visiting the 
 lakes and passing through the Caledonian Canal. 
 
 Among the numerous beautiful lakes, Loch Lom- 
 ond is queen of them all. Here I could linger a 
 month; but I am crazy to see the loved ones at home, 
 and must hasten westward. And now we are wind- 
 ing our way slowly and cautiously up the narrow, 
 crowded river, Clyde. We were due at Glasgow at 
 6 P. M. ; but our numerous cargo of men and sheep 
 detained us until the sun had set and the stars had 
 risen many hours. 
 
 Being informed that we were in a "few miles of Glas- 
 gow," I told my travelling companion that I was de- 
 termined to be one of the first to touch land, and 
 made preparations accordingly. About 9 o'clock our 
 steamer drew up to a broad landing, and I heard some 
 of the passengers say " Glasgow." A minute more 
 and I was on terra firma. Starting in haste for a car- 
 riage, I was stopped at a gate by a man who demanded 
 " dockage." I said : 
 
 " Do you charge for entering Glasgow ?" 
 
 " Glasgow ? indeed, maun, yere five miles from 
 Glasgow !" was the stunning reply of the gate-keeper. 
 
 I returned hastily to the boat and arrived just in 
 time to see her steam up the Clyde. I inquired of 
 a hackman what his charge would be to carry me to 
 Glasgow. 
 
 " Four shillings," he replied. 
 
European Correspondence. 299 
 
 " Beat that boat to Glasgow and I will give you 
 eight." 
 
 " It shall be done." 
 
 And away we steamed as fast as horse-power could 
 carry us. In quick time I was safely landed at the 
 Queen's Hotel, a quarter of an hour in advance of 
 the passengers by the steamer. 
 
 By this flank movement I transferred the laugh 
 from myself to my fellow-travellers. 
 As ever, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Glasgow, October, 1866. 
 
 LETTER TWENTY-NINTH. 
 
 Glasgow — The Royal Exchange — Statue of the Duke of 
 Wellington — The Cathedral of Glasgow — Argyle 
 Street — Stirling — Assassination of the Earl of Doug- 
 lass — The Wallace Monument — Adieu to Scotland. 
 
 Here I am, in the splendid City of Glasgow, the 
 commercial metropolis of Scotland, and one of the 
 finest cities in Great Britain, being the third in point 
 of wealth, population, manufacturing and commercial 
 importance. 
 
 It is one of the oldest cities in Scotland, having 
 been founded by St. Mungo as early as the sixth cen- 
 tury. Its commercial enterprise was first devoted to 
 the tobacco trade. Large fortunes were said to have 
 
300 European Correspondence. 
 
 been made by traffic in this nauseous weed. Many 
 of the finest dwellings in the city were built by the 
 " tobacco lords." 
 
 The little dispute between England and her trans- 
 Atlantic Colony, known as the American " Rebellion," 
 turned the attention of the citizens to the manufactory 
 of cotton goods. Since that period, Glasgow has not 
 only greatly increased in the manufacture of cotton, 
 but in silk, linen, iron, ship building, and chemicals. 
 
 The extent of the manufacturing interests of Glas- 
 gow is not generally known abroad. It is estimated 
 that forty thousand hand-loom weavers are employed 
 by Glasgow manufactories. The total number of 
 spindles in motion in Glasgow is believed to be two 
 millions! The consumption of cotton, in 1861, was 
 one hundred and seventy thousand bales. 
 
 Another source of great wealth and employment is 
 the iron trade. There are five malleable iron works 
 in and near the city, producing annually eighty thou- 
 sand tons. 
 
 Glasgow abounds in public buildings. The Royal 
 Exchange is a magnificent edifice, in the Corinthian 
 style. Its cost was a quarter of a million of dollars. 
 This grand structure is a credit to the merchant 
 princes of Glasgow. 
 
 In front of the Exchange a costly equestrian statue 
 in bronze, of the Duke of Wellington, has been erect- 
 ed. On this monument are recorded the principal 
 battles of the great English warrior. So long as the 
 names of the military heroes are perpetuated by 
 monuments and statues, and their memories cherished 
 
European Correspondence. 301 
 
 and worshipped, just so long will men be found to 
 stain their hands in the blood of their fellow-creatures. 
 
 It will require ages to recover from the butcheries 
 in the late civil war in our own land ; and but look at 
 the wholesale murders of the past few months, engaged 
 in by the brothers of a common Fatherland. 
 
 War seems necessary to make Presidents and great 
 men. Were I a preacher, the burthen of my dis- 
 courses would be against wars and intemperance. 
 These two great evils have been for ages the curse of 
 the human race, and I fear ever will be. 
 
 Among the relics of ancient architecture, is the 
 Cathedral of Glasgow. This old minster was erected 
 in 1 133, in the reign of David I. The Government 
 has recently renewed certain parts of the building, 
 which had fallen into decay. 
 
 Some ten years since a committee of citizens 
 attempted to enhance the beauty of this ancient 
 edifice, by a series of very expensive stained glass 
 windows, which work was executed in Munich, on a 
 concerted scheme of illustration. It was one of those 
 fashionable moves patronized by the gentry and rich 
 men of Glasgow and Scotland. Eighty-one windows 
 have been gorgeously decorated with Scriptural illus- 
 trations. 
 
 We are told by the Good Book that it is not well 
 to put new wine into old bottles, or mend old gar- 
 ments with new cloth. 
 
 The freshly painted windows, representing the 
 expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise, is not in 
 harmony with the subdued tone which surrounds the 
 
302 European Correspondence. 
 
 old edifice, and which has on its every feature the 
 wrinkles of many centuries. You might with the 
 same propriety paint an innocent child's head on the 
 shoulders of a decrepit old man, and call it a perfect 
 picture. The newly painted face might be executed in 
 the best style of a Michael Angelo, and yet it would 
 not be in harmony with the other parts of the picture. 
 
 The names of the artists and donors are, however, 
 published, which will doubtless be full compensation 
 to some of these rich men who have been so lavish 
 of their money. 
 
 The old building, notwithstanding its modern dis- 
 figuration, is well worthy of a visit, and is considered 
 one of the eight wonders of Glasgow. 
 
 On the Continent of Europe the architecture of 
 antique buildings is seldom interfered with, beyond 
 preserving them from decay. 
 
 Glasgow is situated on the Clyde, which river has, 
 at an expense of ten millions of dollars, been made 
 navigable to the Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 The harbor is a mammoth basin, covering an area 
 of some fifty acres. It is four hundred feet wide, and 
 more than a mile in length, with large wharves 
 thronged with vessels, bearing the flags of many 
 nations. Among these I recognized the stars and 
 stripes of my own native land. 
 
 This gigantic work speaks volumes for the enter- 
 prise of the Glasgow merchants. Here was a narrow, 
 shallow stream, with a depth of water of only a few 
 feet, which, by widening and dredging, now admits 
 first-class merchant vessels. 
 
European Correspondence. 303 
 
 This wise outlay of money, for the improvement of 
 the navigation of the Clyde, has almost doubled the 
 wealth and population of Glasgow. On this river 
 was the first successful application of steam to ships 
 as a motive power. 
 
 The Glasgow Bridge is a noble structure, faced with 
 Aberdeen granite, and consists of seven arches, ex- 
 tending, altogether, five hundred feet in length, and is 
 sixty feet wide, being ten feet wider than the famous 
 London Bridge. 
 
 Argyle street is the Broadway of Glasgow. For 
 nearly three miles it is bordered with splendid estab- 
 lishments, filled with stocks of merchandise, superior 
 to anything I saw even in London. 
 
 At mid-day the stream of active commercial life 
 flowing through this street, is refreshing to look upon. 
 This prosperous manufacturing and commercial city 
 is not unmindful of the fine arts and horticulture. 
 Its gallery of paintings is not, however, what you 
 would expect to find in a rich city of nearly half a 
 million of inhabitants. 
 
 The Botanical Garden, which is on the banks 
 of the Kelim, has a fine collection of indiginous 
 and exotic plants. The grounds are tastefully laid 
 out. 
 
 The corporation of Glasgow have recently pur- 
 chased one hundred acres of land, for a public park, 
 on the south side of the city. 
 
 It is approached by one of the handsomest thor- 
 oughfares in Glasgow, extending, as it does, in nearly 
 a straight line from Argyle street. 
 
304 European Correspo?idence. 
 
 Glasgow is bountifully supplied with water brought 
 in pipes, at great expense, forty-eight miles, from 
 Loch Katrine. 
 
 Twenty-one million gallons of pure water flows 
 daily into the city. In proportion to the population, 
 not even the great Croton of New York exceeds the 
 Katrine stream. 
 
 Thirty miles from Glasgow is Stirling. This city is 
 beautifully situated on the River Forth ; population 
 thirteen thousand. Its chief attraction is the old castle, 
 which stands on the brow of a precipitous rock, over- 
 looking Stirling and the surrounding country, afford- 
 ing a beautiful and extensive view. This castle is 
 associated with Scotland from an early period ; Alex- 
 ander the First having died in it in 1124. 
 
 About the time of the accession of the house of 
 Stewart, Stirling Castle first became a royal residence. 
 It was the birthplace of James II and James V. 
 
 The palace was built by James V. Its walls are of 
 polished stone. 
 
 In the northwest corner is the Douglass room, in 
 which William, Earl of Douglass, was assassinated 
 by James II. 
 
 The king invited Douglass to meet him in Stirling 
 Castle under the protection of a safe conduct, and 
 endeavored to persuade him to abandon his confed- 
 eracy with Crawford and Ross ; Douglass refusing, 
 James drew his dagger and stabbed the earl, exclaim- 
 ing, " If thou wilt not break the bond this shall !" 
 
 The Wallace monument here is two hundred and 
 twenty feet high — or will be when completed. 
 
,-3&- 
 
European Correspondence. • 305 
 
 It is built on a mound of rocks, which rises some 
 five hundred feet above the town. From this point 
 is a varied and extensive prospect. 
 
 To-morrow I must bid adieu to dear old Scotland ! 
 One of the most interesting weeks of my life has been 
 spent in looking upon its fine cities and towns, in 
 examining carefully its mineral and agricultural dis- 
 tricts, sailing upon its beautiful lakes, traversing the 
 highlands, threading its canals and rivers, and admir- 
 ing its lofty mountains. 
 
 I was surprised at the extent and perfection agricul- 
 ture is carried on in Scotland, and still more surprised 
 to find that the most of the large farms were not 
 owned by the occupants, but under lease for a term of 
 years. Many of the tenants pay a rent of five to ten 
 thousand dollars per annum, and yet they grow rich, 
 because they get their labor cheap, and are thorough 
 masters of their profession. They know when work 
 is well done, which is one of the secrets of their suc- 
 cess. They make agriculture as much a study as the 
 professional man or the merchant does his business. 
 I pity the poor and laboring classes in Scotland. The 
 question with them is not how much of their hard 
 earnings they can lay up for old age, but whether 
 they can procure the simplest food for their numerous 
 household. The lower classes live on oat meal por- 
 ridge and skim milk for breakfast ; potatoes and oat 
 bread for dinner, with beer and porridge again at 
 night. The poor classes, both in the cities and rural 
 districts of Scotland, live meanly. 
 39 
 
306 European Correspondence. 
 
 I was surprised to find in their hovels such a want 
 of cleanliness and comfort. It is a pleasant thing to 
 be a British subject, if you have money ; but a poor 
 man with a large family, in the Old World, has before 
 him a life of toil and struggle. 
 
 Where extreme poverty exists, vice is to be found; 
 and misery and vice are twin spirits. Things are not 
 in the Old and New World as I would have them, 
 but there is much good in both hemispheres. 
 
 There is here a vast amount of knowledge, skill, 
 energy, and enterprise, and much to make one happy. 
 But happiness comes of useful employment. Idleness 
 is the bane of life. Satan marshals his armies from 
 the overflowing camp of do-nothings. But enough. 
 I have not time to moralize. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Glasgow, Scotland, October, 1866. 
 
LETTER THIRTIETH 
 
 London, its Principal Places of Interest — Visit to Man- 
 chester — Mr. Bright — Home of my Forefathers — 
 Wales, its Iron Manufactories. 
 
 In London again ! Yes, I am once more in this 
 great throbbing heart of the British Lion. London 
 is a little world in itself, and is the centre of finance 
 for all nations. 
 
 A merchant of New York buys a cargo of coffee 
 in South America, and pays for it by a bill of exchange 
 on London ; and so of most other articles of mer- 
 chandise. 
 
 This mammoth city, like a valued friend, improves 
 on acquaintance. 
 
 After leaving Glasgow, I visited the great manufac- 
 turing town of Manchester, and there heard the Hon. 
 John Bright deliver one of his great harangues, to a 
 mixed multitude of fifty thousand people. 
 
 Mr. Bright is a fine specimen of a John Bull, and 
 looks as if he enjoyed good beef and plum puddings. 
 He is what we should call in the States a political 
 demagogue. I, however, like his republican and tem- 
 perance principles. 
 
 Manchester is one of the busiest places on the 
 globe. The immense quantity of coal used here fills 
 the atmosphere with smoke, which is much more dis- 
 
308 European Correspondence. 
 
 agreeable than the London fogs. The cotton lords 
 in Manchester are for free trade — that is, they wish to 
 have their goods enter free of duty into all foreign 
 markets, but would like a tax upon imports, except 
 breadstuffs. 
 
 From Manchester, I made a hasty run through 
 Wales. I wanted to find the home of my forefathers ; 
 it was, however, like looking for diamonds in a coal- 
 pit 
 
 I find little else beside mountains and iron manu- 
 factories. The iron products of the small district of 
 Wales is greater than the whole of the United States, 
 and about one-fourth of that made in Great Britain. 
 
 In the cities, English is taught and spoken, but in 
 the rural districts they adhere to the Welsh. The 
 inhabitants are a hardy, honest-looking people. 
 
 Before making a tour of England, Scotland, and 
 Wales, I spent ten days in London. It was my inten- 
 tion to describe the principal places of interest visited 
 by me here, but my correspondence is already too 
 voluminous. I shall, therefore, only attempt a passing 
 notice of the most striking objects in this world's 
 renowned metropolis. One of the grandest sights in 
 London is St. Paul's, the Cathedral Church of the See 
 of London. Its lofty spire, which has been standing 
 two centuries, is hid in the foggy, smoky atmosphere 
 that surrounds it. The interior of this magnificent 
 building fills one with awe and wonder as he gazes 
 upon the grand arches which encircles the dome. 
 From the immense walls and pillars, look down upon 
 you the marble forms of the dead. Nearly every 
 
European Correspondence. 309 
 
 niche and corner in the vast hall is filled with statues 
 and paintings of departed heroes. It struck me as 
 rather a strange place to perpetuate the memories of 
 military characters — in a house consecrated to the 
 worship of God. This architectural wonder of Europe 
 stands on the summit of Ludgate Hill, towering above 
 the surrounding buildings. 
 
 As it is built of massive stone, it stands a substan- 
 tial monument to the renowned architect, Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren. From St. Paul's we proceeded to 
 Westminister Abbey, and spent a few hours in con- 
 templating this gem of ancient architecture. 
 
 Within the consecrated walls of the vast mauso- 
 leum " England garners up her great." In the " Poet's 
 Corner" you find yourself surrounded by the tombs 
 of the mighty dead. On one of these is inscribed, 
 " Oh Rare Ben Johnson !" 
 
 Near by are the monuments of Milton, Spencer, 
 Thompson, Dryden, Gray, Addison ; and there, also, 
 is the immortal Shakespeare, in graceful majesty, 
 holding a scroll in his hand ; here, too, is Gay, with 
 these odd lines engraved below his bust — 
 
 ' " Life is a jest, and all things show it ; 
 I thought so once, and now I know it." 
 
 Gay is not the only one who has realized the full 
 import of these lines. 
 
 The side chapels are filled with tombs of kingly 
 families. The most interesting of these is that of 
 the unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots, which was 
 erected by her son, James I. I did not take much 
 
3 i.o European Correspondence. 
 
 pleasure in looking upon the magnificent tomb of 
 Queen Elizabeth. She was a woman of rare endow- 
 ments, but full of jealousies and intrigues. We could 
 not, however, expect anything better of the daughter 
 of Henry VIII. 
 
 Near the Abbey are the Houses of Parliament. 
 The new palace is one of the most magnificent build- 
 ings in Europe ; said to be the largest Gothic edifice 
 in the world. We next visited the Old Tower of 
 London, built by Julius Caesar, and which is so full 
 of historical associations. It is surrounded by high 
 walls, which you enter through gates strongly 
 guarded. We were shown through the rooms by a 
 man who mechanically described the various sights. 
 We saw the block upon which Lady Jane Grey laid 
 her head ; also the axe which severed it from her 
 body. Just before this occurred she exclaimed, 
 " Lord, into thy hands I commit my spirit !" In 
 those days, royalty was no security for life or prop- 
 erty. 
 
 We were next shown the cell where the illustrious 
 Sir Walter Raleigh was incarcerated fourteen long 
 years. The walls of the dark, damp prison, are seven- 
 teen feet thick. Within this Raleigh wrote the history 
 of the world. 
 
 This ancient fortress was used for five centuries as 
 a palace. It has been converted into a State prison. 
 Here are deposited the jewels and ornaments of the 
 Crown. 
 
 As a merchant I was deeply interested in the ship- 
 ping of London, and looked with eyes wide open 
 
European Correspondence. 3 1 1 
 
 upon the spacious wet and dry docks. The West 
 India docks alone covers three hundred acres of 
 ground. 
 
 The East India docks are smaller, but very sub- 
 stantial. The merchant princes of New York would 
 do well to imitate their London cousins in the 
 improvement of their docks and ship accommoda- 
 tions. The wharves of New York are a disgrace to 
 that great and prosperous city. 
 
 Beyond the docks is the entrance to the Thames 
 Tunnel. We descended nearly a hundred steps and 
 found ourselves in a long archway, brilliantly lighted 
 with gas ; and, would you believe it, trade and traffic 
 was carried on in this subterraneous passage on a 
 brisk scale. In addition to the shops were eating- 
 houses; also numerous exhibitions. Throngs of peo- 
 ple were passing through the long archway. The 
 tunnel is a stupendous work, but has not answered 
 the purpose for which it was designed. The bridges 
 over the Thames are far preferable in every respect 
 to the tunnel, and are among the curiosities of the 
 metropolis. While in the tunnel I felt a choking 
 sensation, and imagined that I was not far removed 
 from a watery grave. I visited frequently the Royal 
 Exchange, which is a splendid building, worthy of 
 the merchant princes who frequent it. One of the 
 Rothschilds was pointed out to me as he stood, during 
 'Change, at his pillar, a position which has been occu- 
 pied for many years by a member of his great banking 
 house. There is nothing in the appearance of Roths- 
 child that denotes more than ordinary financial abilities. 
 
312 European Correspondence. 
 
 Near the Exchange is the Bank of England, a 
 moneyed giant. The banking buildings covers eight 
 acres of ground. Its affairs are managed by a gov- 
 ernor, deputy-governor, and twenty-four directors, 
 elected annually. 
 
 The immense business of the bank requires a 
 thousand clerks. The stocks or securities, upon 
 which the public dividends are payable, amount to 
 .£774,000,000, and the annual dividends payable 
 thereupon, to £"25,000,000. The management of the 
 entire public debt of Great Britain is placed in 
 the hands of the Bank of England. I stood on 
 the broad steps of the bank and looked upon the 
 ever-moving waves of human life pressing and jost- 
 ling one another, as if they were all an hour behind 
 time. 
 
 How sad and lonely it made me feel as I gazed 
 upon millions of human beings, not one of their vast 
 multitude knowing or caring a fig for me. 
 
 When a boy I read of the great City of London, of 
 its merchant princes and rich bankers. I felt that I 
 would like to live there. To-day's experience satis- 
 fied my ambition in that direction. I was convinced 
 that Charleston, the " Old City by the Sea," was quite 
 large enough for me. I had a letter of introduc- 
 tion to the great banking house of Brown, Shipley 
 & Co. 
 
 Learning that their office was near the Bank of 
 England, I stepped into a store and asked a gentle- 
 man if he could direct me to the house of Brown, 
 Shipley & Co. 
 
European Correspondence. 313 
 
 He looked up quite thoughtfully, muttering 
 " Brown, Shipley & Co.," " Brown, Shipley & Co. — I 
 never heard of that firm." I thought, if an old bank- 
 ing house of the world-renowned reputation of Brown, 
 Shipley & Co., was not known by its next door neigh- 
 bor, that my chance for making a name in London 
 would be very remote. 
 
 The vastness of London can only be realized by 
 comparison. It has four times the population of New 
 York, nearly two-thirds more people in it than Paris. 
 It contains as many inhabitants as Scotland with all 
 of its great cities. Here you find a hundred thou- 
 sand abandoned women and twenty thousand profes- 
 sional gamblers. A vast number of people here work 
 on Sundays, and there are drunkards enough in Lon- 
 don to make a city. Good and evil here is on a large 
 scale. 
 
 In this grand old city you find palaces, parks, 
 sculptures, castles, fortresses, princely mansions and 
 miserable huts. The whole eastern part of London 
 is teeming with every variety of life and activity, 
 from the highest sphere of commerce and finance, in 
 the offices of Rothchilds in New Court, and the Bar- 
 ings in Bishopgate street, down to the fish stalls in 
 Billinsgate, and the old cloth dealers in Houndsditch. 
 What would the vast multitude of people do without 
 the " lungs of London ?" These great air vessels are 
 as accessible to the peasant as to the Queen. Hyde 
 Park is, perhaps, the Champs Elysees of London; it 
 contains three hundred and eighty-eight acres, and 
 40 
 
314 European Correspondence. 
 
 extends from White Hall to Kensington Gardens. 
 Here you see wealth, fashion and show, unsurpassed 
 in Europe. 
 
 Regent Park contains four hundred and fifty acres. 
 The Zoological Garden, found here in great perfec- 
 tion, is the most interesting feature of this park. 
 Green Park is entered from Piccadilly by an Arch 
 Triumph — a diminutive representation of the Paris 
 monument. A statue of the Iron Duke embellishes 
 Green Park. 
 
 St. James is the Park or Garden of Buckingham 
 Palace, and, of course, is well kept. 
 
 I made an effort to see Queen Victoria. Her 
 Majesty, I was informed, had gone to Scotland with 
 Mr. Brown. Failing to see the Queen, for four shil- 
 lings I was permitted to inspect her royal stables, and 
 look with admiration upon the forty elegant carriages. 
 Here, also, is kept the state carriage, which was pur- 
 chased more than a century ago, at a cost of £7,000. 
 Buckingham Palace has not been occupied much by 
 the Queen since the death of Prince Albert. To my 
 eye it is an unsightly building. I think the Queen 
 shows her good sense in preferring Windsor Castle 
 to Buckingham Palace. We visited Windsor, and 
 there had a most charming day. The state apart- 
 ments contain some of the finest pictures I have 
 seen, painted by Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, 
 Poussin and others. 
 
 Never shall I forget the loveliness of the view from 
 the Round Tower. There you see the long avenue 
 of grand old trees, miles in length ; beyond is the 
 
European Correspondence. 315 
 
 Thames, winding gracefully among elegant farm 
 houses and villages. Our party was delighted with 
 the New Garden, which is adorned with marble and 
 bronze statues. 
 
 The last day I spent in London was devoted to 
 the sights in the British Museum. Here is a store- 
 house of antique treasures worth crossing the Atlan- 
 tic to see. 
 
 Just think of rushing in one day through those large 
 rooms and galleries, filled as they are with rare speci- 
 mens of mineralogy, geology, statues and historical 
 paintings, and five hundred thousand volumes — the 
 history of earth, man and seas. 
 
 But enough, my eyes are dizzy and brain weary 
 in looking upon London sights. There is a picture 
 in the New World, dearer to me than London with 
 all its sights and treasures. That picture is home, 
 sweet home — and the loved ones in it. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 London, October, 1866. 
 
LETTER THIRTY-FIRST 
 
 Liverpool, her Dockage and Shipping Facilities — Ameri- 
 can Cotton — Adieu to the Old World — Steamship 
 China — Stormy Passage — Arrival at Boston — Home 
 Again. 
 
 A swift railway travel of five hours, through a beau- 
 tiful country, and we are transferred from England's 
 great metropolis to her principal sea-port city. Liv- 
 erpool is substantially built on the River Mersey, 
 four miles above the mouth, in the Irish Sea. Popu- 
 lation seven hundred thousand. 
 
 The shipping of Liverpool is immense ; more than 
 three thousand sailing and steam vessels are regis- 
 tered here. The dockage and shipping facilities are 
 very superior. The imports of American cotton, in 
 1785, were one hundred bales; in 1800, one hundred 
 thousand bales; and, in i860, it had increased to two 
 millions of bales. 
 
 The proximity of Liverpool to the ocean, and to 
 the manufacturing districts of Great Britain, gives to 
 her unsurpassed commercial advantages. One half 
 the products of England are exported from Liverpool. 
 Few cities, during the past twenty years, in the Old 
 or New World, have made such rapid progress in 
 wealth and population. 
 
European Cotrespondetice. 317 
 
 Well, the day for departure is near at hand, to- 
 morrow I shall leave for home ! The very thought 
 of it makes my heart throb and beat with joy. 
 My tour on the Continent and in Great Britain 
 has been one of intense interest, pleasure and infor- 
 mation. 
 
 In my rambles I have looked carefully at the peo- 
 ple in all the walks of life. I was not prepared to 
 see so much abject poverty and destitution ; but the 
 poor we find in all ages and in all countries. So it 
 will be to the end of time. 
 
 I have looked on La Belle France with her vine- 
 clad hills, her palaces and her Paris. At Switzerland, 
 with its charming lakes and snow-capped mountains. 
 At Italy's blue sky, placid lakes and sweet vales. 
 At Germany, with her Berlin, Vienna, Hamburg, 
 Dresden and Munich. At Scotland, with her moun- 
 tains, lakes, and well cultivated fields. At Wales, 
 with her mountains of iron ; and last, though not 
 least, at England, the dearest spot of all. 
 
 The scenery of England when compared to Swit- 
 zerland, or many portions of our own country, is 
 tame. Nature's defects have been made up with a 
 liberal hand in the embellishments and triumphs of 
 art, science and learning. Here you find palaces, 
 castles, parks, pictures, sculptures, fields clothed with 
 almost perpetual verdure, and gardens with ever- 
 blooming flowers. In fact, you find everything in 
 England that can contribute to the improvement and 
 happiness of man. As a nation, the men and women 
 surpass all others in personal beauty. 
 
3 1 8 European Correspondence. 
 
 The time has arrived when I must bid adieu to the 
 Old World. I am soon to exchange the sights of the 
 Eastern Hemisphere for the Western Continent. I 
 dread crossing the Atlantic, and if the loved ones at 
 home were with me, I should be inclined to linger 
 longer, and further survey the classic grounds of our 
 forefathers. At 5 P. M., we left our hotel for the 
 noble steamship China. Soon after our arrival on 
 board, the captain took his stand at the wheel-house, 
 and ordered all save passengers ashore. A tap of the 
 bell, then a shrill whistle, and the great wheels of the 
 steamer were put in motion, and we bade a long and 
 last farewell to dear old England. 
 
 I am fortunate in having as fellow-passengers some 
 Charleston friends ; and here I find Madame Murat, 
 now a resident of Florida, and also some Georgia 
 friends. We have the prospect of a pleasant voyage. 
 Our steamer has a smooth sail to Queenstown ; here 
 she touches for the mail, which comes through by 
 rail. The most of the passengers land and stroll 
 through this pretty Irish town, and some of us make 
 extensive purchases of Irish linen made of cotton, 
 and here we find a score of beggars annoying us 
 almost beyond endurance. We are again on the 
 China, and are moving westward as fast as steam and 
 sail can drive us. For a day or so the weather is mild 
 
 We now find ourselves in a more northern latitude. 
 The wind begins to blow from the west, and now from 
 the northwest, which pours upon us a succession of 
 furious gales, so boisterous and tempestuous as to 
 threaten to engulf us in the briny deep. Our ship 
 
European Corrcspo?idencc. 319 
 
 behaved nobly, although she trembled in every tim- 
 ber, and dipped water first on the right and then on 
 the left ; here we stood, or tried to stand, looking on 
 the angry billows, as they heaped up mountains high 
 around us, with but a slender plank between us and a 
 watery grave. As the winds and waves thundered 
 against our ship, she would reel and stagger. The 
 force of the storm seemed more than even her strong 
 frame could bear. It was in this crisis that I thought 
 of home and the loved ones, and had great apprehen- 
 sions that I should see them no more. This terrific 
 storm lasted for several days, with but slight inter- 
 mission. The black darkness of the horizon finally 
 dispersed, and the sunlight gladdened our hearts and 
 allayed our fears. I never before rejoiced so much at 
 sunlight. Here is Halifax, and we all land, rejoiced 
 once more to stand on terra firma. I send by the 
 wires, to the dear ones at home, the news of our safe 
 arrival in the New World. Again we embark on the 
 China. Amid fogs as thick as midnight darkness, 
 we felt our way cautiously in the direction of Boston, 
 ringing the bell and firing cannon, to warn innocent 
 crafts of the danger they are in. We go far out 
 of our way, but finally reach Boston safely. With 
 grateful hearts to a merciful Providence, we quit the 
 steamer, quite satisfied with our adventures as sailors. 
 But here I am in Charleston, in our cheerful home, 
 and surrounded by those I love so well. 
 
 Thus ends the European Correspondence of 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Charleston, S, C, November, 1866. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS PAPERS. 
 
 Under this head, I propose to class a variety of 
 fugitive pieces, written at different periods of life, 
 under different circumstances, and illustrative in a 
 slight degree of the public as well as the private life 
 of the author. Some of the pieces have a purely- 
 domestic character ; but as this is a family book, 
 designed wholly for my children, and for the 
 familiar friends who take an interest in its details, 
 no apology is deemed necessary. There is not 
 to be a copy of the book sold. Its circulation 
 will be wholly private. 
 
 41 
 
MISCELLANEOUS PAPERS. 
 
 MEMOIR OF MAJOR EDWARD WILLIAMS. 
 
 Major Edward Williams was born at Easton, Mass., 
 June 30th, 1780, and died March 4th, 1856, at his 
 residence in Nacoochee, Ga. 
 
 At the age of twenty years, he left his native place 
 for Charleston, South Carolina, where he remained 
 only two years, when he removed to Burke County, 
 North Carolina. Here he married a daughter of Mr. 
 Daniel Brown, a man of sterling worth, who was 
 extensively engaged in agriculture and merchandise. 
 The rumor of rich lands in Georgia, induced Major 
 Williams to visit that State in 1822 ; and though, 
 at that time, the Cherokee Indians were the princi- 
 pal inhabitants of the upper counties, he purchased 
 a large portion of Nacoochee Valley, one of the 
 most romantic and beautiful vales in the South. 
 He settled near the centre of this fertile valley, 
 where he and his excellent wife brought up a family 
 of worthy sons and daughters. No parents could 
 be more blest in their children, and this remark 
 is true without an exception among them — no slight 
 proof of proper training and noble example. Major 
 
 4r 
 
324 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 Williams possessed remarkable energy and perse- 
 verance of character, and these traits were fully ex- 
 emplified in his long and busy life. He was strictly 
 temperate in times when drinking, not to say intem- 
 perance, was regarded by very many with great 
 though unwarrantable leniency. His house was the 
 abode of hospitality, and over its doors might have 
 been inscribed the Irish salutation to each comer — 
 "A hundred thousand welcomes!" His chief delight 
 was in the bosom of his family, where he was be- 
 loved and honored ; while his known love of virtue, 
 justice, and truth, and his unswerving integrity of 
 character, commanded the esteem and confidence of 
 all who knew him. For a long time he had been 
 regarded as the model farmer of upper Georgia, and 
 in this capacity did much to promote the agricultural 
 interests of his adopted State. He established also 
 in the Alleghany Mountains, a dozen miles from his 
 residence, the first cheese dairy at the South ; and 
 conducted it successfully till his advanced years for- 
 bade his longer attending to it. He was present at 
 nearly all the annual fairs of the State Agricultural 
 Society from the time of its formation, and obtained 
 prizes at each — among them, for corn, wheat and 
 cheese. He had read extensively, was a close 
 observer of men and things, and seldom erred in his 
 estimate of human character. He never allowed him- 
 self to speak evil of men. It is believed that he lived 
 and died without an enemy ; while he made friends 
 wherever he was known. A good name, which he 
 nobly won, and the importance of which he pressed 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 325 
 
 steadily on his children, he prized infinitely above 
 riches. One might have supposed that a man of such 
 sterling worth among his fellows could need no other 
 passport even to the abodes on high ; not so thought 
 Major Williams. Through the whole course of his 
 life he was a regular attendant on the services of the 
 house of God, and a ready contributor to all the 
 benevolent enterprises of the church, delighting 
 always in the society of the good, so that even those 
 who knew him most intimately, regarded him as defi- 
 cient in but one point, and that was the neglect of 
 formal union with the church. This step, however, 
 he took very deliberately and solemnly in the latter 
 part of his life, thus perfecting his character as a speci- 
 men of the " noblest work of God " — " an honest 
 man ;" and without which step his claim to that char- 
 acter in the highest sense must ever have remained 
 defective. Nor was this union a mere form. His 
 reliance was in the atonement of Jesus Christ alone, 
 and his spirit was happy and resigned, trusting in his 
 Saviour. He joined the Methodist Episcopal Church, 
 into which all his children had previously entered, 
 and in whose communion his wife had lived and died. 
 But the close of all was drawing on, and the good old 
 man, supposing that he might not see the dawn of 
 the 19th day of February, (a few days before his 
 death,) at 1 1 o'clock the preceding night had his 
 friends gathered into his chamber, and a tried friend, 
 the Rev. Mr. Littlejohn, administered the communion 
 of the Lord's Supper to a weeping, yet rejoicing little 
 band of Christians. The venerable and beloved suf- 
 
326 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 ferer was in sight of the fair fields beyond the river of 
 death, and his spirit exulted in God his Saviour, and 
 in anticipation of a peaceful and triumphant departure 
 from earth. He praised God aloud, bade his children 
 and friends join him in heaven, said he had no fear of 
 death, but was ready and willing to depart at any 
 moment it might please God to call him ; and in this 
 blissful state continued till the call came. The lan- 
 guage of his son, Mr. Charles L. Williams, to another 
 of his sons in Charleston, may well be used by each 
 one of the survivors : " O, George, such consolation 
 we have never met with before. Grief and joy both 
 in the same moment — grieved to give him up, but 
 rejoiced to believe he was going to be happy." Thus 
 lived and died this patriarchal man — loved through 
 his lengthened and useful life, lamented in his death, 
 though those who weep cannot but rejoice in his 
 blissful release and his joyful state on high. " The 
 memory of the just is blessed." 
 
 H. A. C. Walker. 
 
OBITUARY. 
 
 Died, at his residence in Nacoochee Valley, 
 Georgia, Major Edward Williams, aged seventy-six. 
 
 LINES, SUGGESTED BY THE DEATH OF MAJOR EDWARD WILLIAMS. 
 
 Another victim ! O insatiate grave, 
 Shall thy voice never cry, " It is enough ? " 
 Sweet infancy descends to thy cold vaults, 
 And man in middle prime goes down to thee, 
 And woman's loveliness, all paled, is thine, 
 And age within thy dampness mouldering lies. 
 O grave, insatiate ! wilt thou ne'er be gorged ? 
 From our fond, circling arms are reft away 
 The loved, now lost, and gathered all to thee, 
 And yet no surfeit-sound returns, but still 
 Thou gapest, open grave ! and with desire 
 Enlarged and sharpened by the very heaps 
 Of men thy gloomy caverns have received, 
 Thou waitest still for more ! 
 
 Another victim ! — midnight's hour is near, 
 And round the couch of pain are anxious friends. 
 But he who suffers there hath cast his eye 
 To Him who suffered once on Calvary ; 
 And high and far beyond the gloomy grave 
 A light divine appears, and thrilling joy 
 Plays through the sufferer's heart. 
 
 A man of God 
 Is with the little band assembled there ; 
 And by the taper's ray, where all are sad, 
 Save him, whom, sealed of death, the grave has claimed. 
 The Paschal ceremonial is prepared, 
 
328 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 All bow and penitently own their sins, 
 Deprecative, imploring prayer they urge, 
 And hearts which trust in Christ acceptance find ; 
 And God that room of death a Bethel makes. 
 
 "My children," said the aged man, " draw nigh '*- 
 (From prime to hoary years his course he'd held, 
 No enemy had made, but many friends, 
 Friends who admired the patriarchal man) — 
 " My loved ones, gather round, and e'er I pass, 
 Receive my love, my fondest, last farewell. 
 For in the land to which I go, and where 
 We'll meet again, no parting sound is heard. 
 I've reached a ripe old age ; I'm ready now; 
 In Christ alone I trust ; into his hands 
 I cast my soul, with no misgiving fear. 
 He loves me and will love me to the end !" 
 And thus, rejoicing, confident, resigned, 
 The patriarch closed the scene. 
 
 Another victim this ? — O greedy grave ! 
 Of him now taken thou shalt be despoiled, 
 And loved ones whom we've lost in thy defiles 
 We'll find again beyond, when we in turn 
 Have passed thy dark abode ! 
 
 Thou know'st that He 
 Who leads us on, entered thy drear domain, 
 And rose triumphant over sin and death 
 And thee. See how His banner freely floats 
 Where, marshalling his gath'ring hosts beyond, 
 He waves us onward through thy gloomy vale 
 To join his glittering ranks ; that, all complete, 
 Our glorious Captain may his ransomed lead 
 Into eternal joy ! 
 
 Eyes now that weep, 
 Shall sparkle with delight ; and hearts, whose throes, 
 In parting, agonized to bursting nigh, 
 Shall thrill to rapture's touch, as one by one 
 Earth's loved and lost are found in those bright ranks. 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 329 
 
 What exultative shouts our Leader greet ! 
 And hark! triumphant sounds are swelling high — 
 " Death, where is thy sting? and Grave, thy victory ? 
 To God, our God, be endless glory given ! 
 Through Jesus Christ the victory is ours !" 
 
 H. A. C. Walker. 
 Charleston, March, 1856. 
 
 A TALK ABOUT THE RESOURCES OF GEORGIA- 
 HERD'S GRASS, HAY, etc. 
 
 We are truly a famous people in Georgia to talk 
 and dream of independence. It cannot be doubted 
 that our State possesses all the natural resources for 
 true independence. Let us, then, show the patriots 
 at Washington, who are discussing the difference 
 between working a black mule and a white ass, that 
 their decision is of but little importance to us. We 
 will teach those who are ever meddling with our 
 institutions, that some things can be done as well as 
 others. Now, while we love the people of the North, 
 yet we love our homes and institutions more; and as 
 this is a day distinguished for resolves, let us resolve 
 to be an independent people. This must be accom- 
 plished by pursuing the home system. Let us raise 
 everything we eat, whether it be of animal or vegeta- 
 ble origin. If we should not make hay, cheese, but- 
 ter, pork, beef and flour for export, yet it is a matter 
 of no small importance to supply our home consump- 
 42 
 
330 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 tion. I hope and trust the days are numbered when 
 we are to look abroad for what we eat and wear. In 
 our climate, we can raise not only the necessaries, 
 but luxuries of life. The orange, lemon, sugar cane 
 and rice, and the famous sea island cotton, flourish in 
 Southern Georgia — there, also, are to be found the 
 pine forests, valuable for lumber — the manufacture of 
 tar, pitch and turpentine, might be made a profitable 
 business. In Middle Georgia, our lands are valuable 
 for cotton and grain. Upper Georgia is the interest- 
 ing portion of our State ; but little is known of its 
 great advantages and resources. It is here that we 
 can grow the wheat, corn, rye, potatoes and barley to 
 feed the multitude. On the banks of the beautiful 
 Chattahoochee and Ocmulgee, we will build our 
 Lowell and Manchester. It is here that we must 
 encourage the manufacturer and artizan. Thousands 
 of our people might be profitably employed in manu- 
 facturing the great staple of Georgia into yarns and 
 cloth. It is here that we have rich and inexhaustible 
 mines of gold, iron and coal. Lime, to enrich our 
 lands, is also abundant. Merchant mills are multiply- 
 ing in every direction, and Northern flour will soon 
 be driven from the South. 
 
 In Upper Georgia, we have the mountain range, 
 producing luxuriant native grasses, to feed the " cat- 
 tle on a thousand hills." I know that the erroneous 
 opinion prevails with many that our climate and soils 
 are not adapted to the cultivation of such grasses as 
 can be made into good hay. This is quite a mistake. 
 I have seen the best meadows in New England, but 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 331 
 
 no where have I seen grass grow more luxuriantly 
 than in Georgia. It is to be regretted that this im- 
 portant branch of Southern agriculture is so much 
 neglected. The cultivation of grass is a subject of 
 vast importance to our people. We have thousands 
 of acres of land, too wet for grain and cotton, that 
 might be sown down with grass, and yield a hand- 
 some profit to the farmer. 
 
 No grass has succeeded so well in Georgia as the 
 Herd's grass. It flourishes on wet soils and re- 
 claimed swamps, but will thrive on most soils ; makes 
 an excellent spring and winter pasture, and can be 
 mown twice in one year. This valuable grass is more 
 extensively cultivated in Habersham County than 
 any other section of the State. It was introduced 
 into Nacoochee Valley by Major Williams more 
 than twenty years since. The Major has tried the 
 celebrated Bermuda, Means, Guinea, and other 
 grasses, but has found none equal to the Herd's. 
 The farmers of that valley understand the value of 
 good hay, and have more than a hundred acres of 
 fine meadow. Herd's grass is easily propagated — is 
 perrenial, and when once introduced into good soil, 
 will flourish with a little care, for years. The land 
 intended for meadows, should be thoroughly cleaned 
 of stumps and roots, then ploughed and harrowed. 
 The grass seed should be sown with oats, broad- 
 cast, afterward, harrowed and brushed in. March is 
 a good month for sowing. The oats will protect the 
 young grass from the hot sun ; cut the oats, grass 
 and weeds as close to the ground as possible. You 
 
332 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 will not get much hay the first year. Meadows are 
 often injured by pasturing, especially in wet weather; 
 and allowing noxious weeds, briars and bushes to 
 grow up. They can be improved by irrigation. 
 During the winter months, turn the small branches on 
 the meadow. The surface soil should be kept free 
 from standing water after the first of March. Har- 
 rowing in the fall is beneficial. 
 
 When the time for, mowing arises, remember you 
 all to " make hay while the sun shines!' Let each 
 mower be followed by a boy, whose duty it is to take 
 up the swath and shake it out as thin as possible, 
 where it grew. In the evening the hay should be 
 raked into winrows, and afterwards put into cocks 
 five or six feet in height. If the weather is good the 
 hay will be ready for stacking or housing in two or 
 three days. It is a great saving to put it under 
 shelter, hence the necessity of large barns. Inti- 
 mately connected with grass-growing and hay- 
 making, is the dairy business. At a future time, I 
 may offer a few hints upon this subject. 
 
 Let our men of the soil awake from their Rip Van 
 Winkle sleep — be true to themselves — and we can 
 and will be an independent people. 
 
 Ever yours, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Nacoochee, 1850. 
 
EMORY COLLEGE, GEORGIA— CHEERING. 
 
 A REPLY TO CENSOR. 
 
 Brother Parks, the Agent for Emory College, sent 
 the following letter for our columns. It is a telling 
 " reply to Censor " — so designated by the writer ; 
 and should, at once, be followed up by another. A 
 few more such arguments will surely drive the Emory 
 College Agent from the field. What " Georgia 
 Methodist" stands ready with its like? Surely 
 such a spirit of liberality will find no trouble in get- 
 ting across the Savannah River. Another College is 
 indebted to the munificence of the same brother for 
 the same amount ; and it were no less a pity than a 
 shame to have one man do so much, while so many 
 do so little, and many more nothing. 
 
 Dear Brother Parks: — Enclosed I send you five 
 thousand dollars of first mortgage seven per cent, 
 bonds of the Memphis and Charleston Railroad Com- 
 pany, which please present to the Trustees of Emory 
 College. It is my wish that the income arising from 
 this fund be used in paying the tuition and board of 
 young men who are preparing for the ministry, but 
 have not the means of procuring an education. The 
 selection of the beneficiaries to be left to the annual 
 Conference. 
 
 Emory has certainly earned and therefore is entitled 
 to the confidence of the Georgia Methodists. She 
 has already done nobly, and when her endowments 
 
334 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 are completed, she will become the glory of Method- 
 ism. Let the friends of the South, and especially of 
 the M. E. Church, South, rally around our institu- 
 tions of learning, and support and sustain them with 
 a liberality worthy of the noble cause. 
 
 Methodism, which sprang from a handful of poor, 
 but resolute people, has accomplished wonders for 
 the world. We now number our millions, and our 
 influence is seen and felt upon uncounted multitudes. 
 And yet, " Censor " — who calls himself a Methodist, 
 is striking at the vital energies of this infant giant. 
 Save us from our friends ! 
 
 Some of our brethren on this side of the Savannah, 
 when applied to for money, hide themselves behind 
 this Georgia masked battery — shame on them. If 
 " Censor " should devote the remainder of his life as 
 a faithful agent of Church Colleges, he could not 
 atone for the great wrong he has perpetrated — such 
 is the belief of 
 
 A South Carolina Methodist. 
 
 May, 1857. 
 
THE CURRENCY. 
 
 During the panic last fall, you, Messrs. Editors of 
 the Courier, urged the banks of this city to suspend 
 specie payments, because you deemed it necessary, 
 at that time, for the protection of the commercial 
 community. Now that the storm has blown over, 
 we find that we were more scared than hurt. It is 
 the belief of many that the banks in this State, with 
 a little sacrifice, could have maintained a specie 
 basis, and at the same time have furnished the mer- 
 chants with the usual facilities. Be this as it may, the 
 friends of a sound currency expect you, as a leading 
 commercial journal of this city and State, to speak 
 out on the subject of an early resumption of specie 
 payments. There is an urgent necessity for this. 
 The banks throughout the country are resuming 
 specie payments. Augusta and Savannah have asked 
 co-operation of Charleston. Failing to secure it, they 
 have resolved to resume, unconditionally, on the first 
 of May next. I also learn that they have instructed 
 their agents to discount no drafts payable in South 
 Carolina, thereby diverting large shipments of cotton 
 and other produce that would otherwise find its way 
 to this market. 
 
 In many parts of Georgia, South Carolina money 
 is discredited, and efforts are being made to drive out 
 every South Carolina bank agency in the State. It is 
 not to be expected that they will submit to an irre- 
 
336 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 deemable currency, to the exclusion of their own 
 specie notes. 
 
 Quite a number of our banks profess to be ready 
 and anxious to resume, but make a scape-goat of the 
 Bank of the State. They say it is impossible for that 
 institution to redeem its large circulation in gold or 
 its equivalent. In that, we think, they are mistaken. 
 This bank is a State institution — South Carolina owes 
 comparatively a trifling debt, her credit is good, and 
 I doubt not a million of her seven per cent, bonds 
 could easily be converted into coin at par. It would 
 require no such sum. Were all the banks to resume, 
 the demand for specie would be small. Then, will 
 not South Carolina, so long distinguished for a sound 
 currency, come into line, and resume that proud 
 position which she once enjoyed? 
 
 The recent panic was the greatest farce of the 
 nineteenth century. Our whole country, blessed, as 
 it was, with the most abundant harvest ever known, 
 and yet our commercial community, like the miser, 
 was perishing in the midst of plenty. 
 
 Thanks to King Cotton he has unlocked the iron 
 grasp. Our country is again prosperous, and now is 
 the propitious time, while both foreign and domestic 
 exchanges are in favor of the South, for our banking 
 institutions to replenish their vaults with coin. If 
 this be delayed until the crops have gone forward, 
 and the proceeds expended, we may, next fall, when 
 the banks are compelled to resume, prepare ourselves 
 for a panic more disastrous in its consequences than 
 that of 1857. . G. W. W. 
 
 1858. 
 
TO "SOME OF THE UNCONVERTED." 
 
 THE BLUE RIDGE RAILROAD. 
 
 I have neither time nor inclination to enter into a 
 newspaper discussion upon the merits or demerits of 
 the Blue Ridge Railroad question. It was known to 
 many of my friends that I was opposed to an enter- 
 prise which could not be completed without involv- 
 ing the city and State in an expenditure of several 
 millions of dollars. I regarded the roads now in 
 operation as all that were necessary to give us the 
 facilities and advantages that the Blue Ridge Rail- 
 road, when completed, was expected to do. With 
 this conviction, I very naturally opposed so large 
 an expenditure of money as the enterprise called 
 for. 
 
 I will now give a few of the many " causes which 
 led to my conversion " to the Blue Ridge Road, and 
 trust that "some of the unconverted" will take the 
 same trouble and expense to inform themselves upon 
 the whole bearings of this great enterprise that I have 
 done, and then, if they too, are not convinced of their 
 errors, they may be regarded as decidedly wedded to 
 their opinions. 
 
 The Chamber of Commerce last summer appointed 
 
 a committee to confer and negotiate with the railroad 
 
 companies for a reduction of the rates of freight to 
 
 this city. Being a member of that committee, I made 
 
 43 
 
338 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 two visits to Georgia and Tennessee, and while attend- 
 ing to that business, I became awakened if not con- 
 verted. 
 
 I ■ discovered that the Governor of Georgia, under 
 whose control the State road is, if he did not under- 
 stand "banking and book-keeping," knew that Georgia 
 as well as South Carolina had a sea-port, and was 
 using all his efforts to direct freight and business 
 to Savannah. 
 
 The State of Georgia has expended six millions of 
 dollars in a road leading to the West. Is it not rea- 
 sonable and natural that she should use that road for 
 the benefit of her own people ? Is it at all surprising 
 that the agent of the State road at Chattanooga should 
 give preference to a merchant consigning his cotton, 
 corn, flour, etc, to Savannah, over one shipping to 
 Charleston ? 
 
 In December last, H. Cobia, Esq., and myself were 
 delegated by Council to represent the stock of the 
 city in the Chattanooga and Nashville Road. While 
 at Nashville, we were informed that some ten thou- 
 sand barrels of flour were ready for shipment to 
 Charleston ; but the agent of the Georgia State Road 
 refused to unite with the other roads in bringing it at 
 the rates agreed upon, until he could consult the 
 Governor ! 
 
 The consequence was, the flour was sent to New 
 York via Cincinnati. The Memphis and Nashville 
 roads in which our city has expended so much money, 
 are rendered valueless so far as the trade to Charles- 
 ton is concerned ; because we are at the mercy of the 
 Georgia roads, over which we have no control. 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 339 
 
 Are the " unconverted " ignorant of the fact, that 
 the South Carolina Railroad Company paid to the 
 City of Augusta one hundred and fifty thousand dol- 
 lars for the privilege of building a bridge across the 
 Savannah River ? 
 
 Do they know that, notwithstanding the exorbitant 
 price paid for that privilege, citizens of Augusta have 
 recently sued the Company, and received heavy dam- 
 ages for obstructing navigation ? 
 
 I have only named a few of the many facts which 
 have come to my knowledge while making a careful 
 and personal investigation of the railroad interests 
 connected with our State and city. I saw enough to 
 convince me that South Carolina could never com- 
 mercially be an independent State until she had 
 opened a new route to the vast West, under the con- 
 trol of her own citizens. 
 
 On my return from Nashville, I learned through 
 the Augusta papers, that the final vote in the Senate 
 was to be taken on the Blue Ridge bill that day at 
 3 o'clock. I felt it was due to my friends in the 
 Legislature, who knew my opposition to the bill, to 
 inform them that I no longer opposed State aid. 
 When I arrived at Branchville, at I o'clock, I sent a 
 telegraphic dispatch to Hon. Henry Buist, stating that 
 I had just returned from the West, and I was now 
 thoroughly convinced that the Blue Ridge Road 
 ought to be built. 
 
 This was all the showing I had in the Legislature. 
 I had no opportunity to explain or give my reasons 
 for a change of opinion. No one can say that I was 
 
34-0 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 influenced in the slightest degree by any friend of the 
 road. I am, perhaps, as much wedded to my opinions 
 as fine most of men, but experience has long since 
 taught me that no man is infallible. I feel that it is 
 the duty of every good citizen when he discovers 
 that he is in error, to have the manliness to acknowl- 
 edge it, especially when that error is calculated to 
 lead others astray. I have become a friend of the 
 Blue Ridge Road from an honest conviction that my 
 opposition to it was an error of judgment. I now 
 believe that every citizen of South Carolina is inter- 
 ested in the success of this great enterprise. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Jantiary 22, 1859. 
 
 WOFFORD COLLEGE, SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 As the readers of the Advocate are interested in 
 the great educational interests of our church, I em- 
 brace this opportunity of informing them of some 
 of the doings of Wofford College, during Commence- 
 ment week. On Sabbath, the Rev. Whitefoord Smith, 
 D. D., preached the Commencement Sermon before 
 the graduating class. The spacious College Chapel 
 was crowded with strangers and visitors. It was one 
 of the most powerful and practical sermons I ever heard 
 from this eminent divine. For more than an hour, 
 in his earnest and impressive style, he besought the 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 341 
 
 young men to " Watch ye, stand fast in the faith, quit 
 you like men, be strong." It is to be regretted that 
 Wofford College loses the services of Dr. Smith. He 
 however, goes to a more laborious, and I trust equally 
 useful field of labor. 
 
 On Tuesday, the Hon. J. D. Treadewell, of Colum- 
 bia, a distinguished layman of our church, delivered 
 an oration before the Calhoun and Preston Societies 
 connected with Wofford College. It was a splendid 
 effort ; but the writer thought him unnecessarily 
 severe on the Government of England, and there 
 were other portions of his eloquent oration to which 
 all his audience did not subscribe. 
 
 On Wednesday, the annual exercises closed at 
 Wofford, and it is a day that will long be remem- 
 bered by those who were in attendance. The young 
 gentlemen of the graduating class acquitted them- 
 selves handsomely in their Commencement exercises. 
 Fourteen graduated, taking the degree of bachelor in 
 the liberal arts. Four of that number contemplated 
 entering the Christian ministry at an early day. 
 Oh that the friends of our church would awake to 
 the necessity of sustaining our colleges, with a pat- 
 ronage and liberality worthy of the noble efforts 
 now making, to furnish within our own limits a thor- 
 ough education based on the principles of Scriptural 
 religion, and quickened with the energies and activi- 
 ties of Methodism. 
 
 At the close of the exercises two elegant Family 
 Bibles were presented to President Wightman and 
 Professor Smith, by Mr. King, in behalf of his fellow 
 
342 Miscelianeojis Papers. 
 
 students. In response to these appropriate gifts, our 
 worthy friends, Drs. Wightman and Smith, bade 
 adieu to the students of Wofford and the friends 
 with whom they had been so long and pleasantly 
 associated. Hard indeed must have been the heart 
 that was not moved in witnessing this leave-taking. 
 Nearly all of the large audience were bathed in tears. 
 Dr. Wightman thinks he obeyed a call of Providence 
 in accepting the Presidency of a College in Alabama ; 
 and yet, I must be permitted to express the opinion 
 that he erred in resigning the Presidency of Wofford 
 College. 
 
 Dr. Wightman had grown up among us ; his influ- 
 ence and usefulness were felt and appreciated : he is 
 beloved by all, and it is to be regretted that he con- 
 sented to dissolve his connection with the South Car- 
 olina Conference and her institutions. Our new 
 President elect is known to be a man of superior 
 ability. The Board of Trustees were gratified in 
 finding a Shipp, to take the place occupied by Dr. 
 Wightman. Dr. Dogget, was unanimously elected 
 to fill the vacancy occasioned by the resignation of 
 Professor Smith. Dr. D., is not only one of the 
 strongest men in the Virginia Conference, but in the 
 Church, South. 
 
 The laymen of the M. E. Church, are evidencing 
 their interest in our Church Institutions by the large 
 attendance on Commencement occasions. None of 
 them have taken greater interest or seemed to be 
 more gratified with the exercises, than His Excel- 
 lency, Governor Gist. I have been mortified to 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 343 
 
 observe among a certain portion of the clergy in our 
 church, a growing jealousy of the laity. I should 
 like to know what they have to fear from the laymen 
 of the M. E. Church ? They do not ask to be bish- 
 ops, presiding elders, or preachers, or even to be 
 made church editors. Blot out the lay element in 
 our great church organization, and you will have a 
 splendid piece of machinery, without a main-spring 
 to impel it. Who build your colleges and churches ? 
 Clothe and feed the ministers and their families? 
 Where does the missionary and Bible money come 
 from ? All that the laymen of our church ask or 
 wish, is the privilege of being co-workers in the 
 great cause of their Master. They ask not the power 
 of making bishops, or priests, they do not even desire 
 the privilege of choosing their own preacher, but sup- 
 port cordially and heartily the man whom the bishop 
 in his wisdom may send to minister to them. They 
 are willing to labor in the church as humble class 
 leaders, stewards, and trustees, as Sunday-school 
 teachers and superintendents, and to contribute liber- 
 ally of their means to push on the old Ship of Zion, 
 to build up the church of their fathers, the church 
 they love and reverence. Yours truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 July 161/1, 1859. 
 
CITY COUNCIL OF CHARLESTON, 1859. 
 
 Alderman Williams, from the Special Committee 
 on the proceedings of the Chamber of Commerce, in 
 relation to the Dredge Boat, made the following 
 minority report, which was laid over until the majority 
 report comes up for consideration : 
 
 REPORT. 
 
 The communication from the Chamber of Com- 
 merce in reference to the Dredge Boat, was referred 
 to a Special Committee of three. Two members of 
 that committee having, at the last meeting of Coun- 
 cil, made a report in favor of continuing the work of 
 dredging, at the expense of the city, I beg leave now 
 to make a minority report. 
 
 I have investigated the whole matter carefully, and 
 cannot see that the commerce of Charleston is jeop- 
 arded by the withdrawal of the Dredge Boat. At 
 least not enough to warrant the city in embarking in 
 an enterprise in which so large an expenditure of 
 money is involved. The Committee from the Cham- 
 ber of Commerce estimated the expenses of the boat 
 at fifty to sixty thousand dollars per annum. To pay 
 this heavy sum, it would require an increase of the 
 taxes of one-fourth of one per cent, on all the real 
 estate in Charleston. Are we not already driving off 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 345 
 
 our citizens by high taxation, thereby lessening the 
 value of real estate, and affecting the interests of the 
 city generally ? 
 
 There are many of our experienced business men 
 who are unwilling to admit that the Beach Channel 
 has been improved in depth from any other causes 
 than those that first produced the effect of deepening 
 it from almost a dry shoal to the depth of ten feet at 
 low tide, and that depth was attained before the Dredge 
 Boat was heard of. 
 
 Several of the captains of the pilot boats, who have 
 long been acquainted with the Charleston harbor, 
 were interrogated by Aldermen Inglesby and Frost. 
 
 They were asked : " Has the navigation of the 
 channel been rendered dangerous in consequence of 
 the stoppage of the Dredge Boat ?" 
 
 Capt. B. — I think not. 
 
 Capt. McD. — Not more so than before. 
 
 Capt. C. — I think not. 
 
 Capt. A.— No. 
 
 Capt. A. — I do not think it has as yet, though I 
 have not as much confidence in it as I had three 
 months ago. 
 
 " Is it likely soon to become dangerous if the chan- 
 nel is not worked upon?" 
 
 Capt. B. — Can give no opinion. 
 
 Capt. McD. — I am not prepared to answer decidedly. 
 I think it may remain as good as it is for months, un- 
 less some unforeseen cause presents, which the Dredge 
 Boat could not ward off. 
 
 Capt. A. — Nothing can prove that but time. 
 44 
 
346 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 Capt. C. — I have not sounded lately, and can give 
 no opinion. 
 
 Capt. A. — Can give no opinion. 
 
 " What is the present condition of the Ship Chan- 
 nel ; is it as good as it was before the Sullivan's Island 
 Channel was dredged out ?" 
 
 Capt. C. — I see no difference for twenty years. 
 
 Capt. A.— I think there is no difference ; there is 
 more shoal water in the inside of the bar, but ves- 
 sels of the same draught can be carried out that ever 
 could. 
 
 Capt. McD. — Not having sounded the Ship Chan- 
 nel, I am not prepared to say, but think there is very 
 little difference. 
 
 Capt. B. — I do not think it has as much water. 
 
 Capt. A. — I think there is very little difference, if any. 
 
 It will be seen from the answers given by the cap- 
 tains of the pilot boats, that they do not consider the 
 dangers arising from the navigation to have been 
 greatly increased by the stoppage of the Dredge Boat. 
 
 But even if the Beach Channel should become a 
 dry shoal, we have the Ship Channel, which has 
 answered all the requirements of our commerce for 
 the last hundred years, and it is as good now as it 
 ever was. 
 
 I find much greater complaint among the ship- 
 owners of a scarcity of freights, than a scarcity of 
 water on the bar. 
 
 It is not probable that the receipts of cotton, rice, 
 grain, and naval stores will increase at this port 
 beyond the capacity of the shippers to send it away. 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 347 
 
 The commerce of Charleston has adapted itself to 
 the old Ship Channel. Packets are now constructed 
 capable of carrying four thousand bales of cotton, 
 which enter our harbor without difficulty. For dis- 
 patch and cheapness, the rates of freight to and from 
 Charleston will compare favorably with any other 
 port in the Southern States. 
 
 It is not at all certain that the rates of freight 
 would rule lower, even with twenty-five feet of water 
 on the bar. All commercial men know that large 
 ships are very slow in their movements — it requiring 
 weeks to load and discharge. Steamships are fast 
 driving from the ocean the large sailing packets, and 
 it is the judgment of many that a line of propellers, 
 to run between this port and Liverpool, would pay 
 well, and prove highly beneficial to the interests of 
 Charleston. To me it is clearly inexpedient and 
 unwise for the city either to buy or hire the Dredge 
 Boat. The Treasurer's books will show a large sum 
 of money lost by the city a few years ago in advanc- 
 ing on a Dredge Boat that proved worthless. It is 
 the duty of the General Government, and not the 
 City Corporation, to dredge the bars which obstruct 
 the harbors of the commercial sea-port towns. 
 Respectfully submitted. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
THE BEACH CHANNEL AND DREDGE BOAT 
 
 [for the mercury.] 
 
 I have neither the time nor inclination to enter into 
 a Beach Channel and Dredge Boat controversy. I 
 beg leave, however, to notice a gratuitous charge 
 made by " Deep Water," in Monday's Mercury. He 
 says my object in defeating the whole enterprise, and 
 all such undertakings, is to show the community that 
 our scientific men, our previous Councils and State 
 Legislatures, were sadly in want of sagacity when 
 they attempted to improve our commerce by deepen- 
 ing Beach Channel." I have nothing to do with pre- 
 vious Councils or State Legislatures. 
 
 The present City Council was asked by the Cham- 
 ber of Commerce to buy or hire the Dredge Boat. 
 A Special Committee was appointed to take the sug- 
 gestion into consideration. I regretted very much that 
 I could not agree with the majority in their recom- 
 mendations — hence the necessity of a minority report. 
 I have seen calculations made by scientific and " Deep 
 Water" gentlemen before, and have seen the result of 
 those estimates. The city has been embarrassed with 
 an enormous debt and ruinous taxation. Our com- 
 merce has been drained into the Mississippi River by 
 them. A few years ago the debt of Charleston was 
 only a million and a half of dollars, and the taxes 
 half of one per cent. ; now we find a debt of nearly 
 five millions of dollars, and taxes more than trebled. 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 349 
 
 The "scientific" and "Deep Water" gentlemen 
 told us a railroad connection with the West would 
 double, the value of real estate, and greatly increase 
 our commerce. Our worthy City Assessor taking it 
 for granted that those statements would prove true, 
 and finding it necessary to raise a larger sum of money 
 to pay the interest on the city debt, added to the 
 former assessments twenty-five to one hundred per 
 cent. 
 
 In 1852 the writer paid on his residence half of one 
 per cent., assessed at seven thousand dollars. Three 
 years later he paid one and a half per cent, on the 
 same property, then valued at fifteen thousand dol- 
 lars, (some small improvements had been made at a 
 cost of about one thousand dollars.) Here was an 
 increase of eight thousand dollars, making the taxes 
 more than three per cent, on former valuation. Other 
 tax-payers make similar complaints ; and if an attempt 
 is made to correct this state of things, we are charged 
 with "ignorance" of the wants and requirements of 
 our city. " Deep Water" says : " I would be satisfied 
 with just water enough on the Bar to float a fishing 
 smack." Unless he and other scientific gentlemen 
 will pull off their coats and go to work in the right 
 way to build up the commerce of Charleston, she 
 will only require "fishing smacks" to carry off the 
 produce that comes to the wharves. Does he know 
 that, in consequence of the great scarcity of freight, 
 our first-class steamships are taking flour to New York 
 for fifteen cents per barrel ; also cotton, and other 
 produce, at corresponding low rates ? Is he ignorant 
 
350 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 of the fact that a few respectable sized fishing smacks 
 could carry all the freight that is offering at this port? 
 This is a humiliating disclosure, but, nevertheless, true. 
 
 Will "Deep Water" explain what were the causes 
 that produced a depth of nine feet of water on com- 
 paratively a dry shoal, before the Dredge Boat was 
 introduced ? Is it not reasonable to suppose that the 
 same causes, if left undisturbed, would continue their 
 work until a depth of twelve feet at low water was 
 attained, and that, too, without the aid of artificial 
 means ? Why is it that the Chamber of Commerce 
 and " Deep Water " are so anxious to have the city 
 embark in this enterprise ? They admit that it is the 
 work of the General Government and the State to 
 keep open the harbors of the commercial sea-port 
 towns. Both legislative bodies will soon be in session ; 
 a little delay will certainly not greatly injure the com- 
 merce of Charleston. The city and State taxes of 
 some of our commercial houses have been increased 
 from a few hundred dollars to several thousand per 
 annum. If our merchants are expected to compete 
 successfully with the cities North, it will not do to 
 embarrass them by further increased taxation. The 
 tidal drains, and other important improvements in 
 Charleston, will necessarily require large sums of 
 money. Why, then, should Council be called on to 
 do what is not the legitimate work of the city corpo- 
 ration, and a work, too, which is regarded as doubtful 
 in its benefits by many of our most experienced busi- 
 ness men ? 
 
 September 26, 1859. G. W. W. 
 
THE OLD BOOK DEPOSITORY OF THE SOUTH 
 CAROLINA CONFERENCE. 
 
 The year 1839 being the centenary of Methodism, 
 it was celebrated by the Methodists of South Caro- 
 lina and Georgia in a joyous thank-offering. A large 
 sum of money was obtained by twenty, fifty and one 
 hundred dollar subscriptions, to be divided, one-fifth 
 to missions, two-fifths for educational purposes, and 
 the residue for the establishment of a Book Deposi- 
 tory in Charleston. 
 
 The Rev. Whitefoord Smith, in a communication 
 published in the Southern Christian Advocate, as 
 early as November, 1838, made the suggestion that 
 part of the centenary collections should be applied to 
 the erection of a Southern Book Room in Charles- 
 ton. Both preachers and laymen went to work in 
 earnest to raise a sum worthy the objects they had 
 undertaken. Our lamented Bishop Capers — in that 
 day the leader of good works in the South Carolina 
 Conference — put the enterprise in motion. His noble 
 efforts were heartily seconded in this Conference by 
 Smith, Wightman, Bass, Kennedy, Talley, Stacy, 
 Martin, Walker, Betts, Bryce, Penn, Bird, Wagner 
 and others, and in the Georgia Conference by our 
 beloved Bishop Andrew, Few, Pierce, Longstreet, 
 Parks, Glenn, Key, Evans, Means, Mann, Garvin, 
 Chase and others. 
 
352 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 The committee appointed for the purpose of select- 
 ing a suitable location for the Depository, Advocate 
 Office and Printing establishment, purchased a lot 
 twenty-three and a half feet wide and one hundred 
 and eighty feet deep, running north and south from 
 Hayne to Pinckney street. The cost was eight 
 thousand dollars, in five annual instalments of sixteen 
 hundred dollars each, bearing interest from date. As 
 the location was in the centre of the wholesale trade, 
 it was regarded as a desirable and fortunate selection. 
 At that time property on Hayne street was very 
 much inflated, and in consequence of the great fire of 
 1838 building materials and mechanical labor in 
 Charleston was unprecedentedly high, thus making 
 the houses which were erected for the Book and 
 Advocate establishment cost a very large sum of 
 money. Our liberal-minded Methodists, however, 
 were determined to have a Depository of their own, 
 to enable them to distribute our Church literature 
 more generally among the people. 
 
 A suitable building having been erected on the 
 north end of the lot in Pinckney street for the South- 
 ern Christian Advocate, the demand for that popular 
 church paper was so great that the introduction of 
 steam was found necessary. That circulation has 
 continued to increase until eleven thousand families 
 are now supplied weekly with one of the best relig- 
 ious papers published in the Union. I see no reason 
 why the number should not be increased to twenty 
 thousand, thereby doubling its sphere of usefulness 
 and its income to the church. Our prosperous com- 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 353 
 
 mercial papers were recently contending for the honor 
 of introducing the steam printing press into this city; 
 but had finally to yield the credit to the Advocate. 
 The object of this communication, however, is not to 
 pass a eulogy on the Southern Christian Advocate, 
 but to correct among members of the South Carolina 
 Conference an erroneous opinion in reference to the 
 results of the Book Depository. 
 
 It is believed and asserted by some of the preachers, 
 that the concern did a losing business. I have made 
 a careful examination of its affairs from the date of 
 its establishment in this city, in 1840, to the present 
 time. I find that the Book Depository has returned 
 to the South Carolina and Georgia Conferences the 
 capital contributed by these Conferences, paid to 
 real estate one thousand four hundred and sixty- 
 one dollars and sixty-three cents, and has deposited 
 with the Treasurer of the South Carolina Conference 
 a bond of Stevenson and Owen's for eight thousand 
 dollars, with an accumulation of interest of nearly 
 two thousand dollars. 
 
 The profits of the Depository, after paying all expen- 
 ses, are about thirteen thousand five hundred dollars, 
 from which the bad debts have to be deducted. There 
 still remains unpaid some four thousand dollars of old 
 notes and accounts. Some of these claims are against 
 ministers of the South Carolina and other Conferences 
 — many of whom have died in the work, while others 
 are superannuated and unable to pay. Such claims 
 should be cancelled and charged to profit and loss. 
 The bond for eight thousand dollars with the accu- 
 45 
 
354 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 mulated interest, is by virtue of the intent of the 
 donors the property of the Book Depository. The 
 money collected for missions and educational pur- 
 poses has been applied as directed by the donors. 
 At the ensuing Conference an exhibit will be made of 
 the receipts and expenditures of the Prudential Com- 
 mittee from its origin to the present time. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Charleston, November 10, 1859. 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA ANNUAL CONFERENCE, 1859. 
 
 Greenville, December 5, 1859. 
 
 The South Carolina Conference of the Methodist 
 Episcopal Church, South, began its seventy-second 
 session in this pretty town on Wednesday, 30th ult, 
 Bishop Early presiding. The bishop is in fine health, 
 and is progressing satisfactorily with the business of 
 the Conference. 
 
 The Book and Tract Society of the South Carolina 
 Conference, located in Charleston, made its first 
 annual report, through its President, G. W. Williams, 
 asking for a transfer of the assets of the old Metho- 
 dist Book Room (amounting to some ten thousand 
 dollars) to the Book and Tract Society. Also, for 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 355 
 
 the appointment of an agent by the Conference. 
 After an animated discussion of some hours a reso- 
 lution was adopted appointing the Rev. Sam. Jones 
 agent. 
 
 The Missionary Society held its anniversary on 
 Saturday evening, C. Betts, President, in the Chair. 
 The Report of the Board of Managers was read by 
 Rev. F. M. Kennedy, and addresses delivered by 
 Professor Carlisle, of Wofford College, and Dr. 
 Myers, of the Southern Christian Advocate. 
 
 Professor Carlisle's speech, although delivered with 
 only a few hours' notice, would have done credit to a 
 Wightman or a Pierce. Professor C. is one of the 
 first men of his age in the State. 
 
 Dr. Myers made one of his best efforts. Fifteen 
 hundred (1500) dollars were promptly laid on the 
 table. The preachers contributed a large amount 
 of the above sum. Judging from the manner in 
 which they emptied their purses, they need not be 
 admonished that it is hard for a rich man to enter 
 the Kingdom of Heaven. 
 
 The Missionary collections for the year will amount 
 to about twenty-eight thousand dollars in this Con- 
 ference. 
 
 Dr. Myers, in his speech, advanced the idea that 
 the " millennium " was near at hand. I do not think 
 that he was aware of the fact that there are more 
 than one hundred distilleries in a small district in 
 this State, daily engaged in converting the staff of 
 life into that which not only kills the body, but 
 destroys the soul. Tell it not in the sovereign State 
 
356 Miscellaneous Papers. 
 
 of South Carolina, whose citizens are now sending to 
 Ohio, Indiana and Illinois for bread, that within a 
 few square miles one hundred manufactories are 
 employed in taking from the poor their scanty sup- 
 ply of grain, and converting it into poisonous strych- 
 nine whiskey ! Shame ! Shame ! 
 
 This large army of Methodist ministers, although 
 they may be brave enough to penetrate the miasma 
 swamps of the South to preach the gospel to the 
 slave, and survive the hardships of the mountains, 
 yet they cannot conquer the evil spirits which find 
 their way into the bellies of the swine that wallow in 
 the mud around these dens of Satan. Millennium, 
 indeed ! 
 
 I am proud to see that our Governor, in his mes- 
 sage, directed the attention of the Legislature to the 
 evils arising from the large accumulation of distille- 
 ries. His Excellency recommends that a tax be 
 levied on them sufficient to support the paupers they 
 make. The City of Charleston has adopted this 
 plan, and for every ten dollars of revenue received 
 from liquor shops, it pays one hundred dollars to the 
 police to watch them ; and the bar-rooms fill the 
 almshouse with paupers. 
 
 The Chairman in the City Council of " Licenses " 
 will have much to answer for the " recommendation " 
 he makes. 
 
 The members of Conference have been hand- 
 somely entertained by the citizens of Greenville, of 
 all Christian denominations. I heartily endorse the 
 language of one of the preachers in making his 
 
Miscellaneous Papers. 357 
 
 hostess a life member of the Missionary Society. He 
 said : " If all the ladies in Greenville are as clever as 
 my hostess, then Greenville is one of the best towns 
 in the world." 
 
 They all seem delighted with their homes. I am 
 quite sure that none are more so than 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 The News in the Queen City of fighting near Fortress 
 Monroe — A Chapter of Blunders — Sentiment in Ohio 
 — Bacon and the Blockade — Western Ctirrency — Eng- 
 land's Position, and how it is Relished — Talk on 
 'Change in Porkopolis, etc., etc. 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio, June 12th, 1861. 
 
 I arrived in the " Queen City of the West " yester- 
 day, from Lexington, Ky. They had just received 
 the news here of the defeat of the Federal troops near 
 Fortress Monroe ; and bitter curses are being show- 
 ered, not only on the heads of the rebels, but on the 
 United States officers, who are charged with being 
 incompetent to command the troops entrusted to 
 them. 
 
 It appears that orders were given to surround the 
 " traitors," but the famous German company did not 
 know the difference between a South Carolina seces- 
 sionist and a New Yorker. They commenced firing 
 on Colonel Townsend's Albany Regiment ; the Zou- 
 aves and Massachusetts regiments took a part in the 
 action, when the fight became general. The Germans 
 gained the battle, and succeeded in capturing quite a 
 number of New York troops ! Brigadier-General 
 
360 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 Pierce commanded the expedition ; he " lost his pres- 
 ence of mind ;" it was fortunate for him that he did 
 not lose his head. They say he ought to be sent 
 back to Boston at once. The War Department is 
 censured for delay, and for appointing officers wholly 
 incompetent to discharge their duties. Another great 
 embarrassment the Department labors under is having 
 enlisted the men for only three months. When the 
 ninety days expire, a large number of volunteers, 
 having seen quite enough of camp life, will return 
 to their homes. The true secret is, they are discov- 
 ering that the " protection of the American flag " is 
 only a masked battery of Lincoln, from behind which 
 he expects to subjugate the South. So far as I can 
 learn, the people of Ohio do not engage heartily in 
 such a warfare. They know that without the trade 
 of the slave-holding States, the West will be greatly 
 damaged. From what I have seen and heard in 
 Indiana and this State, I am convinced they are get- 
 ting very tired of the Lincoln blockade. The effects 
 of the war and the blockade of the Mississippi and 
 Ohio rivers, are fast making the whole West bank- 
 rupt. Bacon and provisions are going to waste for 
 the want of purchasers. I am making arrangements 
 for provisions here, which will be shipped South via 
 Louisville, Ky. We have many friends in the West 
 who will do all in their power to feed our Confederate 
 boys. 
 
 It is estimated that there are twenty millions of 
 pounds of bacon and pork in this city alone. Bacon 
 is selling at five to seven cents, corn seven to ten 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 361 
 
 cents per bushel, and butter, lard, and cheese five to 
 ten cents per pound. A man from Indiana told me 
 that in the prairies, where wood was scarce, they were 
 actually using corn for fuel ! A strong delegation 
 has gone to Washington to represent the true state of 
 things ; and if they are not heard, you may look out 
 for an uprising in the West. The currency of the 
 Western States is becoming worthless, as the State 
 stocks and bonds which were deposited as security 
 for the redemption of the bank-notes, are sold in New 
 York at thirty to forty per cent, on the dollar, leaving 
 very little to indemnify the holders of bank bills. 
 
 The true interests of the Western people are all 
 with the South. The Morrill Tariff is as objection- 
 able and injurious to them as to us. 
 
 The Northern papers are down on England 
 savagely, for countenancing, in any manner, the 
 rebels. They say a recognition of the Southern Con- 
 federacy will be regarded by the United States as a 
 declaration of war ! I wonder if John Bull isn't 
 scared ? I have been treated kindly and politely in 
 Cincinnati. The Union feeling, however, is very 
 strong. They nearly all say the Government must 
 be maintained, and they feel confident, with the men 
 and means at the command of the administration, the 
 Union can and will be restored. They do not 
 acknowledge that it has been dissolved. J My old 
 friends expressed a good deal of surprise at seeing 
 me here, and feared I was in danger of arrest. I 
 explained to them the object of my visit, and do not 
 46 
 
362 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 think I shall be sent to Fort Deleware. If disputes 
 were left to commercial men, we should have no more 
 wars to ruin and devastate the country. 
 
 I received an invitation to visit the Merchants' 
 Exchange to-day. They talked politics and war more 
 than commerce. My friends there discussed the pro- 
 priety, or impropriety, of my visiting Camps Denni- 
 son and Clay, which are located some twenty miles 
 above here, in the Miami Valley. From what I can 
 learn, the majority of the troops are good Democrats, 
 and I think they will not molest me. A friend has 
 promised to see me through. If you do not hear 
 from me again, you may know that I am a prisoner 
 of war. I do not fear, however, but that I shall 
 return safely. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
A Visit to Camp Dennison — Eighteen Thousand Hes- 
 sians in Camp — Drilling in Shirt Sleeves — Germans 
 Drilling by the Bugle — Popular Delusions at the North 
 — Bob Anderson and his Pictures — His "Kentucky" 
 Regiment, etc., etc. 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio, June, 1861. 
 
 In my last, I informed you that I had an invitation 
 to visit " Camp Dennison." A friend having procured 
 a permit from headquarters to " pass two gentlemen 
 through the camp," we took our departure on the 
 Ohio and Mississippi Railroad. Twenty miles' pleas- 
 ant ride brought us to the largest military camp that 
 I had ever beheld. The soldiers have comfortable 
 quarters, built of plank, extending for more than a 
 mile on each side of the road, located in the beautiful 
 valley of the Miami. 
 
 A large farm containing several hundred acres was 
 rented by the State. Fields of beautiful wheat are 
 trampled underfoot, in teaching men the science of 
 war, who are to engage in fighting their brethren of 
 the South. There are eighteen regiments — in all about 
 twenty thousand men. Some eight hundred acres of 
 ground were literally covered at one time by soldiers 
 and spectators. I was informed that, in several com- 
 panies, the sons of the most wealthy and influential 
 citizens had enlisted for the war, and were quite willing 
 to endure the hardships of a soldier's life to protect 
 
364 Miscellaneous C01responden.ce. 
 
 the flag ! A large majority of the regiments drilled 
 in their shirt sleeves, unarmed. Only two regiments 
 were fully equipped. The Guthrie Grays seemed well 
 drilled, and presented quite a soldier-like appearance ; 
 but the great centre of attraction was the German 
 Regiment. According to my judgment, they were 
 the best drilled body of soldiers I ever saw. Many 
 of them had served in the Crimean war. Their orders 
 are all given in German. The Colonel of the regi- 
 ment takes a central position, with his buglemen to 
 his right ; and his word of command is issued mainly 
 through the shrill war trumpet. The bugle can be 
 heard much further and more distinctly than the 
 human voice. I should think the war trumpet would 
 come into more general use by our people. 
 
 The severe and efficient drilling these hardy Western 
 boys are daily undergoing, will soon make them 
 efficient and formidable soldiers. I am fully satisfied, 
 from what I have seen in the States of Ohio and 
 Indiana, that we are underrating the fighting materials 
 of our enemy. They have the men, means and dispo- 
 sition to carry on a destructive war, and are united 
 almost to a man. Hundreds of thousands of men 
 are thrown out of employment, and they join the 
 army as a pecuniary necessity. Physically they will 
 compare favorably with any people on the globe, and 
 I do not think we have any good reason for doubting 
 their bravery. If they could find honest employ- 
 ment very few would engage in fighting the South, 
 but they are made to believe that their existence 
 depends on their subjugating the "Southern rebels." 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 365 
 
 I have conversed freely and unreservedly with intelli- 
 gent men from nearly all the Western States, and I 
 am satisfied the majority of them are laboring under 
 the blindest delusion as to the true condition of affairs 
 in the Confederate States. Their newspapers make 
 them believe that in all the Slave-holding States, 
 except South Carolina, the " loyal men " are almost 
 equal in number to the " traitors," and that they 
 stand ready to fight under the Federal flag whenever 
 they can be safe' in so doing ; and they believe also 
 that we are in a starving condition, destitute of all 
 the elements to carry on a successful war. When I 
 told them our people were prosperous, and that our 
 planters had sold their crops of cotton and rice, and 
 realized high prices, and that we had provisions, men 
 and money, with the promise of abundant crops, and 
 a certainty that our ports would be opened to send out 
 the cotton and bring in for it hundreds of millions of 
 gold annually ; and that there were not a corporal's 
 guard to be found in the Confederate States who 
 would fight against their people under the Lincoln 
 flag — they put me down as a crazy South Carolinian ; 
 but I imagine some of them were convinced that the 
 Lincoln blockade was pinching the wrong foot. A 
 few of them were put to thinking, but what will be 
 the result of all this time can only reveal. 
 
 The pious hero of Fort Sumter is here stopping 
 with his brother. Many believe Major Anderson 
 to be an ungrateful, selfish man. In the various 
 speeches he has made since he left the South, no 
 word of thanks has escaped his lips for the innumer- 
 
366 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 able acts of kindness bestowed on him by the gener- 
 ous and kind-hearted citizens of Charleston. And 
 even the courtesies extended to him and his command 
 by General Beauregard have been basely perverted 
 and misrepresented. Major A. having washed his 
 Puritanical hands of slavery by selling his negroes in 
 New Orleans to the highest bidder, is now thought to 
 be as good a free-soiler as his brother who resides in 
 this city. You will remember he married Miss 
 Clinch, of Georgia, who inherited a large number of 
 slaves. The Major has no hold on the people of 
 Kentucky or the West. His photograph is to be 
 seen in the shop windows of cheap picture stores. 
 The price has fallen to twenty-five cents, with a liberal 
 deduction for cash, and Illinois currency would be 
 received in payment. I have seen the famous Ken- 
 tucky regiment you have heard that Anderson was 
 to command. It is said to be made up of bastard - 
 sons of Kentucky, born in Indiana, and educated in 
 Ohio. They are a rough-looking set of fellows, and 
 will doubtless be useful to Lincoln in storming the 
 hen-roosts of Virginia. The story goes that when 
 the gallant Major beheld the material of which they 
 were composed his health failed him. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
Lincoln and Crittenden — Neutrality an Exploded Idea — 
 
 Position of Kentucky — Price of Provisions on both 
 
 sides of the Ohio — Western Produce cannot be kept 
 
 out of the South — The West about to Kick against 
 
 Yankee dom — Prospect of Four Republics, etc., etc. 
 
 Louisville, Ky., June 14, 1861. 
 
 When I was here a few days ago, I deposited in 
 the post office a letter directed to the Charleston 
 " Mercury." I was not aware then that the President 
 had ordered that all letters for the Confederate States 
 should be sent to the Dead Letter Office at Washing- 
 ton, to be pillaged and inspected by his hirelings. 
 
 The other day, when I heard the venerable Critten- 
 den at Lexington begging the people to send him to 
 Washington, that he might have another opportunity 
 of falling on his knees and praying to the Black 
 Republican party to stay the hand of desolation and 
 destruction, I could feel nothing but contempt for 
 this once honored man. Crittenden might as well 
 pray to the mummies of Egypt as to the fanatical 
 " beauty and booty " party. It is folly for any slave- 
 holding State to dream of occupying a neutral position 
 in this great struggle for State rights and equal lib- 
 erty. The Abolition party is pledged to "wipe out" 
 a certain institution. No man can doubt on which 
 side Kentucky will be found in the fight now going 
 
368 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 on, provided she is not kept down by the Federal 
 bayonets. She has many noble sons who are true to 
 us, and at the right time they will let themselves be 
 felt and heard. But Dalilah is now dandling this 
 Sampson of the West on her lap. The razor is being 
 delicately applied — a few locks have already been 
 clipped. This Sampson, however, sleeps with one eye 
 open to the immense trade he is receiving from the 
 Confederate States ; the other eye is shut to all the 
 Lincoln bars which are necessarily left down along 
 the line of seven hundred miles of border States, and 
 through which many of the products of the rich West 
 are and will be smuggled. If bacon, butter and lard, 
 in the States of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, just on the 
 opposite side of the river, are only worth six to ten 
 cents per pound, it is not strange that, by some secret 
 process, these articles will be transported across the 
 river, especially as they are doubled in value by the 
 operation. One of Sampson's strong locks is the 
 Louisville Railroad. The Philistines of Cincinnati 
 insist on having it clippled ; but their master, Abra- 
 ham, is afraid that such an act would arouse the strong 
 man from his slumber ; he begs them to wait, at least, 
 till after the election ; and then he promises, not only 
 to shave the head of this Sampson of his locks, but 
 to put out both eyes. They had better look out, and 
 see that the house is not pulled down on their own 
 heads. It is foolish to talk of stopping supplies from 
 coming into the Confederate States from the West- 
 The corn and hog-growing States of Ohio and Indiana 
 have too great a relish for Southern gold to be shut 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 369 
 
 out by a paper blockade. You might blot out every 
 mile of railroad in Kentucky, and the provisions 
 would find their way South. 
 
 It is my belief that the day is not far distant when 
 the Western politician will take the field against the 
 Republican party, and will carry everything before 
 them by an overwhelming majority. From what I 
 have seen and heard I am clearly of the opinion that, 
 with California, the Northwest and the Northeast, we 
 are to have four American Republics made up from 
 the wreck of the late United States. 
 
 The great American family have grown too large, 
 and its interests are too varied to live under the same 
 Government Laws which are necessary and benefi- 
 cial to one section, are injurious and destructive to 
 another. We of the South are an agricultural people 
 and do not require the high tariff which is necessary 
 to the protection of the New England manufacturers. 
 The South has contributed largely to the wealth of 
 the North. The merchant princes are not willing to 
 give up the immense trade of the Confederate States. 
 What care they for the orphans and widows, the wail 
 and woe which will be created all over the land by a 
 protracted war, if they can secure a trade they have 
 so long enjoyed ? It is a war with them of dollars 
 and cents. Let them remember that Judas sold our 
 blessed Saviour for money. How much good did it 
 do him ? There is a great panic here in the bonds of 
 the Southern States ; they can be bought at thirty to 
 forty cents on the dollar. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 47 
 
MERCHANDISE AND CURRENCY EFFECTED BY 
 THE WAR. 
 
 DOWN WITH MONOPOLIES. 
 
 It has become very fashionable of late, both in town 
 and country, to cry out against monopolies, and abuse 
 roundly those who are engaged in trade, charging 
 them with monopolizing provisions and merchandise 
 throughout the country, for the purpose of taking 
 advantage of the necessities of the people by exact- 
 ing "exorbitant" prices. The very merchants who 
 have been most active in guarding and providing 
 against the state of things which are now complained 
 of, by importing heavily when they had an opportu- 
 nity, and using every honest means in their power at 
 great hazard and expense to increase the supplies, 
 thereby equalizing prices, are modestly called "land 
 pirates," " sharks," and all such delicate epithets 
 are applied, because they have been moderately re- 
 warded for the great labor performed and risks in- 
 curred. 
 
 Much has been said about the monopoly of the 
 article of salt. Does not every one know that neither 
 man nor beast can thrive without this important arti- 
 cle, and yet what are our planters, with their thou- 
 sands of negroes, who are living on the margin of 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 371 
 
 salt beds, doing, but abusing the merchants for charg- 
 ing a profit of two shillings per sack on this indis- 
 pensable article ? Why do they not employ their 
 negroes in its manufacture ? Do they not know that 
 there are not five thousand sacks of salt in the City 
 of Charleston when there will be a demand for one 
 hundred thousand sacks ? 
 
 One of our merchants recently purchased a cargo 
 of salt in New Orleans, and had it brought one thou- 
 sand five hundred miles by steamboat and rail. He 
 was grossly insulted for presuming to ask a profit of 
 five per cent, notwithstanding he had incurred the 
 risk of losing three dollars per sack in the event of 
 the blockade being raised. I was amazed a few days 
 since to see a communication published, which eman- 
 ated from a committee of the leading men of Charles- 
 ton. I feel quite sure that no harm, injury or injustice 
 was intended, and yet the communication was full of 
 the agrarian spirit, and has done incalculable mischief 
 throughout the country. The Charleston merchants 
 who feel it to be their duty to keep up their supplies, 
 are now paying in New Orleans and the West, ten to 
 twelve cents for brown sugar, twenty to twenty-two 
 cents for crushed and loaf, forty cents for coffee and 
 candles, twenty-five cents for bacon and lard, thirty 
 cents for spices and soda, twenty cents for bagging 
 and rope, and all other articles in proportion. When 
 they have paid two to four cents per pound for trans- 
 portation and other expenses, prices must necessarily 
 be very high in this market. From the spirit mani- 
 fested recently, some of our merchants do not feel 
 
372 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 that they would be secure in bringing goods here for 
 sale. It does seem that the people of Charleston, 
 and of the Confederate States, will never realize that 
 we are actually engaged in a destructive war, not in 
 a war of one, two or three years, but in a war equal in 
 magnitude to that of the old " Revolution." I take 
 it for granted, if the "mother country" could engage 
 in a " seven years" war to coerce a few unprofitable 
 colonies, the United States Government will not do 
 less to subjugate fifteen full grown States, especially 
 as without this portion of her dominion she is doomed 
 to ruin and insolvency. 
 
 When our people fully understand the condition of 
 the country, and learn that the stocks of merchandise 
 in the Confederate States are nearly exhausted, and 
 that fresh supplies can only be obtained at immense 
 risk and cost — I say when they learn these facts, it is 
 barely possible that some of them will find more pro- 
 fitable employment than they have at present, for 
 they seem to do nothing under the sun but watch 
 other people's business. If they ever had any of 
 their own it is now entirely neglected. And those 
 citizens who are heaping anathemas on the heads of 
 " monopolizing shopkeepers," will do well to under- 
 stand that abusing them will not cure the evil. Let 
 them try their hand at merchandise, and if they can 
 succeed in furnishing goods at prices satisfactory to 
 the buyers, they will be entitled to the gratitude of 
 the whole country ; and when they die, should have 
 written on their tomb-stones in golden letters — Mar- 
 tyrs. 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 373 
 
 In a short time we will, doubtless, learn that too 
 much confidence has been placed in King Cotton, the 
 British Lion and Napoleon to open our ports, and to 
 give us cheap goods. Let us show the people of the 
 North and of the balance of the world, that we can 
 both live and prosper and not sell a bale of cotton. 
 With our climate, soil and innumerable resources, 
 why should we not be the most independent people 
 on the globe ? But, fault-finding will not bring goods 
 at low prices to our doors. We must learn to do 
 without such articles as cannot be made at home. 
 Let our people profit by the severe ordeal through 
 which they are now passing, and never again be as de- 
 pendent on any nation as they have been on the North 
 and Europe. If we desire the name of freemen, we 
 must be willing, for the present, to submit to great 
 hardships and privations, relying on our God, and the 
 means He has placed in our hands for protection, 
 support and defence. Sitting down with our hands 
 folded, calculating through envy's green-eyed magni- 
 fying glasses the enormous profits a few " monopo- 
 lists " are said to be making, will neither render us 
 happy, fill our own coffers, feed our children, nor 
 supply the wants of the soldiers and their families. 
 Such a course is not manly — it is not patriotic ; it is 
 mean and contemptible, and will never "put down 
 monopolies." 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Charleston, 8. C, 1861. 
 
COMMERCIAL, FINANCIAL, AND AGRICULTU- 
 RAL CONVENTION, AT MACON, GA. 
 
 Mr. Editor : As many of the subscribers to the 
 " Advocate " cannot afford in these war times to take 
 more than one paper, they expect you and your cor- 
 respondents to furnish them with the commercial, 
 financial and agricultural news of the day. 
 
 Some four hundred delegates, representing nearly 
 every interest in the Confederate States, assembled in 
 Macon, on the 14th inst, to talk over the affairs of the 
 nation, and to counsel together as brothers engaged 
 in the one great cause of advancing the common inter- 
 ests of our people. The Convention was regarded as 
 a perfect success. There were very few buncombe 
 speeches made ; the delegates were mainly working 
 men, as will be seen by the amount of business dis- 
 posed of in two and a half days. Colonel O. A. An- 
 drews, of Charleston, was elected President, and dis- 
 charged his arduous duties to the satisfaction of all. 
 The Cotton Loan and Sequestration Act were the 
 most important questions before the Convention. 
 
 Many were of the opinion that both the interests 
 of the Government and the planter would be greatly 
 promoted by advancing in Treasury notes five cents 
 per pound on the four million bales of cotton, now 
 nearly ready for market. Others believed such a 
 course to be unconstitutional and would lead to great 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 375 
 
 fraud and injury by cripling the resources of the 
 Government. The following resolution was finally 
 adopted : 
 
 Resolved, That, in the opinion of this Convention, the proposed issue 
 of Treasuary notes to be made by the Government, and the issue of Bank 
 notes in the ordinary course of trade, and under the resolution of the 
 Banks to make advances to planters, who shall subscribe a portion of their 
 crops in aid of the Government, will together furnish an adequate currency 
 for the country, and will obviate the necessity for any intervention of the 
 Government, and this Convention hereby call upon the Banks of the Con- 
 federate States to come forward and advance within the limits of prudence 
 to all our citizens and on all descriptions of produce. 
 
 I have no doubt but that the Banks will make lib- 
 eral advances on cotton and other produce, thus fur- 
 nishing the planters with ample means to buy the 
 necessaries of life. Luxuries, of course, during the 
 continuance of the war, will be dispensed with. A 
 circulation of Bank notes of one hundred million of 
 dollars, based on cotton at five cents per pound, when 
 our ports are open, will be equal to that amount of 
 coin ; and until the ports are open, the Banks will 
 not be required to redeem their issues in gold or 
 silver. 
 
 A resolution was passed authorizing the shipment 
 of cotton to foreign ports in vessels that had run the 
 blockade. On the strength of this resolution, the 
 steamer Bermuda is now loading with cotton, and 
 will doubtless sail before this communication is pub- 
 lished. A resolution was also passed recommending 
 the Congress of the Confederate States to suspend 
 the duties on imports, and that the ports of the Con- 
 
376 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 federate States be thrown open and be made free to 
 all nations who maintain peace with us. After an 
 exciting debate, the following question of modifying 
 the Sequestration Act was passed : 
 
 Whereas, by the laws of nations debts due to alien enemies are suspended 
 and bear no interest during the continuance of war : 
 
 Resolved, therefore, That in the opinion of this Convention, the 
 Sequestration Act adopted by the Confederate Congress at its recent session, 
 should not require the payment of debts due by our citizens to alien ene 
 mies during the existence of the war 5 but that it should require only the 
 evidence of the indebtedness to be returned, and placed upon record by the 
 receiver, without security demanded and taken for the ultimate payment 
 of the same. 
 
 That in cases wherein the debtor to an alien enemy is also a claimant of 
 indemnity for damage sustained by the act or acts of the Government of 
 the United States, or of the people thereof, the said claim shall be allowed 
 as an offset, and the balance only shall be the subject of payment. 
 
 That we respectfully recommend to the Confederate Congress such alter- 
 ations in, or additions to, the Sequestration Act, as may be necessary to 
 authorize the Confederate Courts to enquire into the " bona fide " of every 
 transaction of our own citizens with alien enemies between the 21st May, 
 1 861, and the date of the passage of that Act, and to protect from the 
 operations of the Act those engaged in such transactions, whose dealings 
 with the enemy were of manifest benefit to the people or the Government 
 of the Confederate States, or free from taint of disloyalty. 
 
 That the Government of the Confederate States having assumed the 
 place of the alien creditor of the Confederate debtor, should stand on the 
 same footing with all other creditors. 
 
 That the Convention further recommend to the Congress of the Con- 
 federate States such modifications of the Sequestration Act as maybe requi- 
 site to exempt from its operation the property of persons resident in the 
 States with which we are at war, who are laboring under the disabilities of 
 coverture or infancy, and consequently unable, though desiring it, to change 
 their domicil, and who are not actually enemies to the South. 
 
 That the property of said alien enemies who have sons in the army of 
 the Confederate States shall be sequestrated for the benefit of such sons as 
 may serve as soldiers in our armies. 
 
Miscellancojis Correspondence. 377 
 
 Unless there is an important modification of the 
 Sequestration Act, great distress and ruin will be 
 brought on thousands of our people. There is little 
 doubt, however, but that the Government at Rich- 
 mond will look carefully into the Act, and make such 
 alterations as are just and equitable. No one can 
 believe that our young government ever intended to 
 pass a law that would prove oppressive to her people. 
 Our merchants are in favor of withholding payments 
 to alien enemies, and at the proper time to pay over 
 as far as they are able the same to the Government ; 
 but they do not feel it would be just to home credi- 
 tors to give a preference to Northern claims. Many 
 of the country merchants were in the habit of divid- 
 ing their trade between the North and the South. A 
 firm may owe fifty thousand dollars, (say one-half in 
 New York and the balance in Southern cities;) and 
 when our unfortunate troubles began, their means 
 were ample to pay all demands, but now their collec- 
 tions have ceased ; they with those who owe them, 
 have left their homes and gone forth to fight the bat- 
 tles of our country. If the war is to be protracted, 
 not fifty cents on the dollar due them will be collected. 
 As the Sequestration law now stands, they are liable 
 to be sued at once in the Confederate courts, judg- 
 ment rendered, and their property sold, if they are 
 not able to give security. Such a course would ruin 
 one-half of our merchants, and leave millions of home 
 debts unpaid. 
 
 The Convention adjourned at half past ten o'clock 
 48 
 
378 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 on Wednesday night, to meet on the first Monday in 
 May, in the city of Montgomery, Alabama. 
 
 Colonel Andrews, in responding to the resolution of 
 thanks to the President and other officers of the Con- 
 vention, said : 
 
 " The Convention would adjourn to meet again in Alabama. There is 
 a beautiful legend of our fair sister State, which tells us that the early 
 pioneers therein were so attracted with her charms that they forgot their 
 distresses, when reaching her pleasant waters and seating themselves on the 
 verdant banks thereof, exclaimed : ' Alabama ' — Here we rest ! 
 
 " May time prove that there was a prophetic significance in the place 
 designated, and to those of us who may be permitted to gather at the next 
 meeting, may the grateful sound come up from peaceful dwellers under 
 every • vine and fig tree,' that our country is delivered ! Alabama ! Ala- 
 bama ! 
 
 " Commending you to the benedictive influences of that Gracious Provi- 
 dence, in dependence on whom our work was begun, is continued, and 
 will, we trust, be ended, I bid you, gentlemen, respectfully, warmly, and 
 affectionately, farewell." 
 
 As a general thing, commercial and agricultural 
 conventions are nothing more nor less than political 
 traps ; but, so far as I could see, the Macon Conven- 
 tion was entirely free from politics, or the selfish aims 
 of any particular class of our fellow-citizens. It was 
 composed of some of the first men of the South, 
 whose great minds seem devoted to the advancement 
 of the interests of our young Republic and her loyal 
 citizens. Such meetings are calculated to do much 
 in cultivating a harmonious and social feeling among 
 the classes representing the varied interests in the 
 Confederate States. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Macon, Ga., October 17th, 1861. 
 
THE MISSIONARY WORK IN SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 I must confess it startles me to hear Christian min- 
 isters talking about abandoning the missionary work 
 in the South Carolina Conference — even for a twelve- 
 month. If the pious dead could be disturbed, would 
 not the sainted Capers, Honour and other pioneer 
 missionaries, grieve if the religious instruction of 
 the blacks was given up ? Is it possible that such 
 good and true men as H. A. C. W. can even " half- 
 way " recommend to his brethren of the old Banner 
 Conference to "suspend the missions for one year?" 
 Would not such a course have a prejudicial influence 
 upon the missions throughout the entire South ? 
 What would become of the missionaries, their wives 
 and little ones during the suspension ? How are 
 they to be fed and clothed. 
 
 We believe that the Holy Scriptures fully recog- 
 nize the relation of master and servant, and we are 
 willing to sustain the relation at any cost. Is it not, 
 then, clearly our duty to see that the slaves are sup- 
 plied with religious teachers ? True, the people of 
 the North stole the negroes from their native homes 
 and put them in their present relation, but their soil 
 and climate proved unsuited to the African race. In 
 plain English, slavery could not be made profitable 
 at the North, and they relieved their consciences by 
 transferring the negro, for a valuable consideration, 
 to the sunny South. We became their owners and 
 
380 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 guardians ; and with the transfer of property, passed 
 the duty to look after their spiritual as well as their 
 temporal wants. 
 
 These are indeed trying times — money is scarce, 
 the price of cotton low, and provisions high, and our 
 country is engaged in a bloody war. If I do not 
 greatly mistake the character of Carolina Planters, 
 they will, as heretofore, come up liberally to the sup- 
 port of the Missionaries who labor on their planta- 
 tions. Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, an honored 
 name in Carolina, was one of the early patrons of the 
 missions to the blacks. He and others saw that the 
 religious instruction administered by faithful men, 
 was of more advantage to their servants than a troop 
 of patrol. The South Carolina Conference will cer- 
 tainly not let the work of forty years, in the malaria 
 swamps, which has been so signally owned and blessed 
 of God be given over to Satan ? Never, no never ! 
 Then let us devise some means to avert this dreadful 
 calamity. 
 
 There is required for the missions in this Confer- 
 ence at least twenty thousand dollars. I feel quite 
 sure the planters will contribute one half that sum. 
 Are there not twenty Methodists who will give each 
 five hundred dollars to so good a cause ? If they 
 have not the money, and do not wish to sell their 
 cotton at this time, let them send it to their factors in 
 Charleston with instructions to pay over the proceeds 
 to the Missionary Treasury, and I will see that they 
 have a liberal advance on it ; and the cotton shall be 
 insured and held until it is ordered to be sold. Those 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 381 
 
 who cannot spare twenty bales let them send ten, 
 five, or even one — the widow's mite, in so holy a 
 cause, will not be refused. 
 
 Let there be, without delay, an earnest appeal made 
 in behalf of the missions in every church in the 
 bounds of the South Carolina Conference. Flour, 
 rice, and provisions of any kind; will be acceptable. 
 The clergy have a right to expect a cordial co-opera- 
 tion of the laity in this important work — a work of 
 which 
 
 " Millions of souls shall feel the power, 
 And bear it down to millions more." 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Charleston, S. C, October 29th, 1861. 
 
 WHERE ARE WE DRIFTING! 
 
 A few weeks since, when Senator Phelan, of Mis- 
 sissippi, introduced a bill in the Confederate Congress 
 to seize and appropriate all of the cotton in the Con- 
 federate States for the use of the Government, I did 
 not suppose such a wild, chimerical and unjust scheme 
 would receive half a dozen votes. I understand, 
 however, that there is a strong probability that Mr. 
 Phelan's bill will become the law of the land, and 
 then when an attempt is made to put it in force, you 
 may look out for another revolution. The citizens of 
 the cotton-growing States are willing to make any 
 
382 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 just sacrifice for the benefit and security of their 
 Government, but they would not quietly submit to an 
 act so unjust and unequal in its operations as the 
 seizure of cotton would be. 
 
 How is it that the Senator selects one article to 
 pay the expenses of the war? and proposes that upon 
 the cotton planters only shall fall the burdens and 
 seizures ? It is true their shoulders are broad, and 
 they seem to be the subjects not only of Confederate, 
 but State legislation. They are restricted to so many 
 square feet of ground on which they shall raise King 
 Cotton, and then that small quantity is to be taken 
 from them. Where is the justice and equity of such 
 a measure ? and what would be the effect upon the 
 public credit? Our worthy Secretary of the Treasury 
 and his assistants are racking their brains to sustain 
 the credit of the Government. Suppose three or four 
 hundred millions of bonds should be issued for cot- 
 ton — an article as immovable and useless to the 
 Government while the war lasts as the rocks in the 
 mountains — might not such a financial blunder ruin 
 the country ? Would cotton be any safer in the hands 
 of the Government and Government agent than in the 
 possession of the planter ? Would it not cost the 
 Government thirty to fifty million dollars per annum 
 for interest, insurance and storage ? Experience has 
 taught us that when Government turns merchant, a 
 wide door is opened for wholesale plunder and swind- 
 ling. If an exigency in our affairs should arise, which 
 would render the seizure of property necessary, let 
 the Government appropriate not only cotton, but 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 383 
 
 tobacco, sugar, rice, naval stores, stocks, land and every 
 species of property. Such a procedure would fall 
 equally upon all classes ; but to select cotton alone, 
 would sacrifice a few for the supposed benefit of the 
 many. 
 
 I trust, Messrs. Editors, you will see the inequality 
 and injustice of the bill now before Congress, and 
 call public attention to the dangers that threaten us. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Charleston, February 14, 1863. 
 
 LETTER FROM CHARLES TON. 
 
 Mr. Editor : The question is often asked, " What 
 has become of the Southern Christian Advocate ?" 
 Some say it expired with the Confederacy ; others 
 say it is published in Macon, Georgia. Can't you 
 make an arrangement to deliver it by Express to 
 your subscribers, until " Uncle Sam " establishes his 
 mail route ? [Certainly. — Ed.] 
 
 We wish to know what you are doing in Georgia. 
 The Charleston refugees, after years of wandering 
 and suffering are returning to their homes. Alas ! 
 What changes have taken place in those homes ! 
 Loved ones who went forth to battle at their country's 
 call, will return no more. The houses from Calhoun 
 street to the Battery, were terribly shattered by shot 
 and shell, and have been robbed from cellar to garret. 
 Oh, what a terrible thing is war ! 
 
384 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 There are evident signs of improvement in business. 
 The stores in King and Meeting streets are rented 
 at prices current before the war, and those on Hayne 
 and East Bay streets are filling up. Geo. W. Wil- 
 liams & Co. have resumed business again at Nos. 1 
 and 3 Hayne street, and are ready to serve their 
 old friends. We have two newspapers published in 
 Charleston, the Courier and the Daily News. The 
 latter is issued from your old Advocate building. It 
 is said to be a sprig of the Mercury. The Rhetts 
 have not returned; I suppose Charleston politics 
 under the new regimen don't suit them. We shall 
 have no more use for nullification or secession, at 
 least in our day and generation. 
 
 The orthodox preachers all left when the city was 
 evacuated, and we were like " sheep without a shep- 
 ard." Rev. Mr. Lewis was sent to Charleston by the 
 Methodist Missionary Society. Although a live New 
 England Yankee, and an avowed abolitionist, to his 
 credit be it said, he never carried politics into the 
 pulpit. Bethel Church was assigned to the whites, 
 Trinity, Spring Street and Old Bethel were taken pos- 
 session of by the colored brethren, and are occupied 
 by them now. Rev. Mr. Raysor, P. E. of this Dis- 
 trict, visited Charleston recently, and Mr. Lewis 
 turned Bethel Church over to him. Rev. F. A. Mood, 
 who has returned from Europe, occupies Bethel. 
 Rev. Mr. Meynardie is expected soon. 
 
 Mr. Lewis has labored with zeal and energy, but 
 has not met with much success, either among the 
 whites or blacks. The African M. E. Church held a 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 385 
 
 " Conference " in Charleston, and made quite a parade 
 of their "bishops, deacons and elders." Sambo, like 
 the white man, is fond of office, and the temptation 
 of being made a live bishop, caused hundreds and 
 thousands to join the African Methodist Church. 
 The whites and the blacks will probably never wor- 
 ship together again in Charleston, I am not sure but 
 that Methodism will be improved by the separation. 
 The colored charges have been a heavy tax upon the 
 time and labors of the white pastors ; and although 
 it has been one of the decided peculiarities of Charles- 
 ton Methodism that it has paid special attention to 
 the religious welfare of this class of the population, 
 yet it has been at the cost of some standing and influ- 
 ence in the community. 
 
 The Church North has a fine opportunity of uniting 
 our Church with theirs, if they would only manifest 
 a Christian spirit, and exercise charity ; but what I 
 saw in my recent visit North convinced me that our 
 bishops and preachers will not be recognized unless 
 they resign their office, repent of their misdeeds, and 
 join the M. E. Church on probation ! As the great 
 question (slavery) which separated the Church in 
 1844 is removed, I see no good reason why the 
 Churches should not reunite, but not on the terms 
 offered by the Church North. President Johnson par- 
 dons us sinners, and receives us back as equals ; why 
 can't the great Methodist Church North do the same ? 
 
 Our old friend H. A. C. Walker made us a visit 
 recently. He is now a " loyal citizen." Nearly all 
 of the South Carolina preachers have taken the oath 
 49 
 
386 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 of allegiance, and have transferred their prayers from 
 Jeff. Davis to Andy Johnson. I think our new Presi- 
 dent is disposed to do all in his power for the South. 
 There is a terrible pressure upon him. Johnson's 
 prime minister, (Stanton,) wants to keep us under mili- 
 tary rule, until the contrabands are allowed to vote. 
 Negro suffrage is the question at the North, especially 
 among the secessionists of New England. The Sec- 
 retary of War has given orders that no more rations 
 be issued to the whites ; the blacks are to be fed as 
 usual. Why this distinction ? I am sure the poor 
 whites in Charleston need bread as much as the col- 
 ored population. There is much suffering, and this 
 suffering extends to a class of people who, a few years 
 ago, were surrounded by comforts and luxuries. 
 Such is life, and such the effect of war ! Let us for 
 the future steer clear of its ravages and horrors ! 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Charleston, S. C, 1865. 
 
REPORT OF THE DISTRIBUTING COMMITTEE. 
 
 No. i Hayne Street, 1 
 
 Charleston, S. C, May 27th, 1865. / 
 Col. Wm. Gurney, Commanding Post : 
 
 Colonel, I have the honor to report to you that the 
 provisions which were in my charge, as Chairman of 
 the City Subsistence Committee, on the arrival of the 
 Union forces in Charleston, and which were taken 
 possession of by the United States military authori- 
 ties, and subsequently turned over to a Committee of 
 citizens, consisting of Hon. William Aiken, Geo. W. 
 Williams, Dr. A. G. Mackey, C. Amme, and W. H. 
 Gilliland, have been issued in accordance with the 
 instruction from Headquarters. 
 
 The Committee received from 
 West Point Mills, whole, middling and 
 
 small rice, - 1,487,765 lbs. 
 
 From Chisolm's Mills, whole, middling 
 
 and small rice, _..'•_ 95,000 " 
 
 From East Point Mills, whole, middling 
 
 and small rice, - 172,027 " 
 
 From Bennett's Mills, whole, middling 
 
 and small rice. - . 108,940 " 
 
 Total, - 1,863,732 lbs. 
 
 The Committee received from the Confederate com- 
 missary stores, six thousand one hundred bushels of 
 corn, which was ground into meal and grist and distri- 
 
388 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 buted to the poor. There was also issued several thou- 
 sand bushels of salt found in the State commissary. 
 
 This timely supply of provisions has given suste- 
 nance to more than twenty thousand needy people 
 for one hundred days, and relieved much suffering in 
 Charleston and its vicinity. There are a number of 
 old and infirm white and colored citizens who have 
 relied mainly on this charity for support. Without 
 continued assistance from the Government, this class 
 of the community must suffer for bread. 
 
 I have the honor to be your obedient servant, 
 GEO. W. WILLIAMS, 
 Member Distributing Committee. 
 
 REPORT OF THE SUBSISTENCE COMMITTEE, TO CITY COUN- 
 CIL OF CHARLESTON, 1 865. 
 
 The Subsistence Committee, which was appointed 
 by Council in 1862, respectfully report that their 
 operations were brought to a close by the fall of 
 Charleston and the arrival of the United States mili- 
 tary authorities in February last. 
 
 The Committee had at that time, in West Point 
 and other mills, one hundred and fifty thousand dol- 
 lars worth of rice and grist, all of which were taken 
 possession of by the military authorities, under the 
 following orders: 
 
 Headquarters United States Forces, T 
 Charleston, S. C, February 20, 1865. J 
 \_General Orders, No. 3.] 
 
 I. All rice heretofore in the keeping of the City 
 Government will at once be taken possession of by 
 the United States military authorities. 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 389 
 
 II. Capt. Ed. R. Fowler, 21st Regt. U. S. C. T., A. 
 C. S., will immediately take charge of the rice. He 
 will report in person to these headquarters for instruc- 
 tions. 
 
 III. Hon. William Aiken, Geo. W. Williams, Esq., 
 Dr. George Mackey and Mr. C. Amme, are appointed 
 a Committee of Citizens, who will distribute this rice 
 to the poor of the city. 
 
 By order of Colonel A. G. Bennett, Commanding. 
 (Signed.) HENRY H. JENKS, 
 
 Capt. 52 Pa. Vols., A. A. A. G. 
 (Official.) H. A. Batterson, 
 
 2d Lieut. 127 N. Y. V., A. A. A. G. 
 A special appeal was made by the Chairman of the 
 Subsistence Committee to Col. A. G. Bennett, Com- 
 mandant of the City. By his orders the supplies were 
 turned over to Hon. Wm. Aiken, Geo. W. Williams, 
 Dr. A. G. Mackey, and C. Amme, for gratuitous dis- 
 tribution to the poor of Charleston. 
 
 The timely provision of the City Council, in pro- 
 curing food during the entire siege of Charleston, and 
 at a time of great scarcity among our citizens, pre- 
 vented much suffering among all classes. 
 
 But for the loss of one hundred tierces of rice in 
 Savannah, and the large amount taken possession of 
 by the military authorities, the Subsistence Committee 
 would have returned in full the advance made by the 
 City Council, and paid a handsome sum into the 
 Treasury. Respectfully submitted. 
 
 GEO. W. WILLIAMS, 
 Chairman Subsistence Committee. 
 
LETTER FROM BISHOP ANDREW. 
 
 A letter from the venerable Bishop Andrew, though 
 addressed to a little boy, will yet be read with satis- 
 faction by all who know and honor that eminent 
 divine. Though subduing his tone to meet the juve- 
 nile apprehension of the boy, it will yet be seen that 
 it is replete with fatherly counsel and the best advice, 
 and may be read profitably by the sons of other 
 fathers, as it has been, I believe, by mine. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Mr. Editor: — The enclosed letter from our venerable 
 Bishop Andrew to his little Charleston friend, is so 
 full of fatherly counsel and advice, I send it to the 
 " Visitor" for the benefit of the little readers of that 
 interesting paper. 
 
 Geo. W. Williams. 
 Charleston, February 12, 1867. 
 
 My Dear Little Friend : — A few days since the 
 mail brought me a letter which was postmarked 
 Charleston, and I supposed it must be from your 
 father; but on opening it, and breaking into and 
 going through two or three envelopes, I found snugly 
 hid away in one or two envelopes a printed letter from 
 my little friend Geo. W. Williams, Jr. I need not 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 391 
 
 tell yOu how glad I was to receive this assurance of 
 the love and respect you cherish for your old friend. 
 I thank you, George, for your letter, and now I say 
 you must repeat it very often : write often ; it will do 
 you good, by improving your mind, and I shall always 
 be glad to receive them. 
 
 Well, George, I had a cold ride home, but reached 
 it safely and found all well. The boys and girls had 
 a fine time of snow-balling each other, just like I used 
 to do when I was a boy. The weather has been very 
 cold ever since. O how sorry it makes me feel to 
 think of the poor people in the large towns who have 
 no comfortable houses, nor warm clothing, nor wood 
 to make a fire for them, and their shivering children ! 
 George, don't you wish you could relieve them all ? 
 Now what a happy little boy you are to live in such 
 a good home, have good warm clothing, and above 
 all, such a good father and mother, who love you and 
 spare no pains to make you happy. Surely you 
 ought to be a very good boy, and never do any thing 
 to grieve your parents. But remember that for all 
 these things you are indebted to the kind providence 
 of your Heavenly Father, and you ought never to 
 do any thing to offend God, but you must love Him 
 and pray to Him to change your heart and make you 
 a good boy. Never tell any stories — never say any 
 bad words. You must pray to God two or three 
 times every day ; ask God to bless you, and bless 
 and keep you from evil. Don't keep company with 
 boys that swear or break the Sabbath, or are quarrel- 
 some ; be civil and obliging to every body ; love your 
 
392 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 books, and be studious to know your lessons. I 
 suppose you are going to school : be sure to love and 
 obey your teacher. 
 
 And now, George, I guess you will think I ought 
 to quit ; well, so I think ; and so I say good-bye. 
 Yours affectionately, 
 
 Jas. O. Andrew. 
 Summerfield, January 15, 1867. 
 
 BRAZIL. 
 
 Mr. Editor: — For the information of those who have 
 the Brazil fever, I send you a letter for publication, 
 from one who has recently returned from South 
 America. Mr. B. is a gentleman of close observa- 
 tion, and possesses more than ordinary intelligence. 
 Any statements made by him in reference to Brazil 
 may be implicitly relied upon. I am convinced in 
 my own mind that we have the best country in the 
 world. All that we require is a stable Government 
 and a working, economical people to restore us to 
 our former prosperity. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 G. W. W 
 
 Charleston, May 28, 1867. 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 393 
 
 Harrodsburg, Ky., May 22, 1867. 
 Geo. W. Williams, Esq. 
 
 Dear Sir : On our parting at Charleston in Jan- 
 uary last, on my way to Brazil, I promised to address 
 you on my return to the United States, which I now 
 do. After travelling on the coast and land three 
 thousand miles in Brazil, I returned to the United 
 States, satisfied that Brazil would not suit our people, 
 all things considered, notwithstanding thousands are 
 going there who are not informed, and I think will 
 never be happy or even comparatively satisfied. 
 Nature has done much for Brazil. More beautiful 
 harbors and scenery the world cannot afford — much 
 of the soil very fertile, but not more so than many 
 parts of the United States ; a fine climate, that is if 
 one is fond of perpetual summer. Thermometer 
 average from 78 to 98 — in short, average of a South 
 Carolina summer. Rio de Janeiro is precisely the 
 climate of Havana. Population of Rio 450,000. But 
 few roads in the entire empire that would admit of 
 a wagon, and only three railroads in the empire, 
 one of which is eighty-five miles, another one hun- 
 dred and twenty-five miles, the other ninety miles. I 
 regard the country as being well adapted for coffee, 
 sugar and tobacco, but not for grain, and cotton I 
 regard as yet an experiment. Rice does well. I have 
 very great doubts as to cotton doing well there ; the 
 soil is all right, but the climate I doubt. They 
 have the wet and the dry season there, either of 
 which would ruin a cotton crop in Carolina, and I 
 see no reason why it would not in Brazil. Last year 
 50 
 
394 Miscellaneous Comespondence. 
 
 in the most desirable province, I understood that it 
 did not rain in six months. It is the worst country 
 in the world to obtain truthful information as to these 
 matters. All the book-writers deceive the public, 
 and when I see you I will tell you the cause, which 
 you will easily understand. There are no facilities in 
 the country, and worse than all, the language, which 
 is Portuguese, then the habits, manners and mode of 
 living ; and any man must be very vain who supposes 
 that a few Americans can go to that natural fine coun- 
 try and cause those people to adopt ours. Not so. If 
 you go there you must give up the English, acquire 
 the Portuguese, and become a thorough Brazilian 
 before you begin to live there — live on mandioca 
 meal for bread, and a barrel of imported flour, to 
 reach the interior on the back of a pack mule, which 
 is a great curiosity, and bacon, rarely seen in Rio, 
 fifty cents per pound in gold, and of the many fam- 
 ilies going there now, by the time they settle in the 
 interior, I think it doubtful whether they will ever 
 see a ham of bacon or barrel of flour again. Society 
 none whatever. 
 
 The coffee plantations were beautiful in the extreme. 
 The negroes looked well, and would class, in appear- 
 ance with ours in the States, in the days of slavery, 
 but I did not think they were as good workers. The 
 price of slaves, for young men and women, likely, 
 from five hundred dollars to six hundred dollars. 
 Much more has been said in this country about the 
 emancipation of slavery in Brazil, than has been said 
 there. If I could have consented to settle in Brazil, 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 395 
 
 I can only say that I would not have had any fears on 
 that score. But I could not consent to settle there 
 with my family, all things considered. Of course I 
 cannot undertake in this letter to go into detail; when 
 I see you, I can tell you many things interesting as 
 to that country. 
 
 I have purchased property in Kentucky, and shall 
 return to South Carolina next week, and hence will 
 
 see you shortly. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 D. L. B. 
 
 MISCHIEVOUS RUMORS. 
 
 That there should be a necessity for the following 
 card of Mr. Williams, cannot but be humiliating to 
 the community. It is unfortunately one of the foibles 
 of poor human nature to lend a willing ear to gossip, 
 and in repeating a rumor to add a little on to it. A 
 misanthropic Frenchman once remarked that we are 
 not displeased to hear of the misfortunes of even our 
 best friends, and once people begin to talk of suspen- 
 sions and failures, at a time of commercial pressure, 
 no house is safe from the aspersion. It is useless to 
 say that this is wrong; that to repeat such a rumor is 
 to be guilty of slander, and liable to an action for 
 libel ; for all this is well known, and readily acknowl- 
 edged by every one. Let our people, therefore, be 
 more guarded in their expressions, and, as Mr. W. 
 suggests, mind their own business, and much will be 
 
396 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 gained every way. Mr. Williams, in our opinion, has 
 taken the most sensible course, in waving all false 
 delicacy, and fairly and squarely bearding his slan- 
 derers and detractors; and has thus forever put an 
 end to all such libellous rumors. — Charleston News. 
 
 The startling announcement of the suspension of 
 the old and highly respected firm of Fraser, Tren- 
 holm & Co., of Liverpool, a house whose reputed 
 wealth was almost without limit, very naturally pro- 
 duced a financial and commercial panic in this com- 
 munity. The day the announcement was made, men 
 congregated on the streets to discuss the losses that 
 would fall on the banks, bankers, and commercial 
 men. Some one suggested that the above firm doubt- 
 less owed " Geo. W. Williams & Co. a hundred thou- 
 sand dollars." In a very short time the one hun- 
 dred thousand was increased to millions ! when the 
 truth is, they owed us less than a thousand pounds. 
 These idle rumors in a few days corrected them- 
 selves so far as relates to Charleston ; but the false 
 reports were spread among our friends in the country 
 to such an extent that our Senior felt it his duty to 
 publish in the Charleston papers the following card : 
 
 A CARD. 
 
 Messrs. Editors : It is with deep regret that I feel 
 it due to a concern that I have been a member of for 
 more than twenty-five years, to refute the malicious 
 reports which have been so industriously circulated in 
 the streets of Charleston for the past ten days. I did 
 not deem it necessary to notice the reports, as no gen- 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 397 
 
 tleman in Charleston believed that the house of Geo. 
 W. Williams & Co. was not as solvent as any concern 
 in the United States. But for the fact that these false 
 and malicious reports have found their way among our 
 friends in the country in a shape calculated to do us 
 and our city a serious injury, I would treat them with 
 the contempt which they deserve. 
 
 The house of Geo. W. Williams & Co. have ample 
 means of their own with which to carry on their busi- 
 ness; they are not indebted a dollar to any bank in the 
 world ; and have a large cash balance to their credit 
 in the New York, Charleston and Liverpool banks ; 
 and, further, the firm has not a note or acceptance 
 due or running to maturity. Neither are they endors- 
 ers on a dollar's worth of domestic exchange, and have 
 but one sterling bill of a thousand pounds to mature. 
 
 Perhaps it might be comforting intelligence to the 
 friends (?) who have been so actively engaged in cir- 
 culating false reports, to learn that of the many mil- 
 lions of dollars of foreign and domestic exchange pur- 
 chased by Geo. W. Williams & Co. during the past 
 twenty-five years, they have never lost a dollar! If 
 the gossipers in Charleston will devote half the atten- 
 tion to their own business that they do to that of 
 others, we shall then hear of fewer failures and more 
 prosperity. 
 
 I dislike to appear before the public in this card ; 
 but duty to myself and the firm that I represent, and 
 also to the city at large, compels me to do so. 
 
 Geo. W. Williams. 
 
 Charleston, June 6th, 1867. 
 
FROM THE NORTH. 
 
 New York, July 25, 1867. 
 I am in this great city, seeing what I can see. The 
 feeling here toward the people of the South is that 
 of kindness and sympathy. They are more than anx- 
 ious to have the old States back again into the Union. 
 They know their commercial and political value to 
 the whole country, and they are feeling keenly in 
 their finances and trade the effects of the disorganiza- 
 tion and anarchy which prevail at the South. As 
 soon as we are reconstructed, millions of men and 
 money will pour into our impoverished lands, and aid 
 in building up our waste cities, and in cultivating the 
 fields that are now growing up in thorns and thistles. 
 New York comparatively is almost as dull as Charles- 
 ton. Those who are so fortunate as to have a few hun- 
 dred pounds of sterling have gone to the Paris show; 
 others have deserted their comfortable homes, and 
 are " cotting " at the seaside, Saratoga or Niagara, 
 leaving the town in the possession of the sharpers 
 of both sexes. I have never seen so few people here 
 from the South. Alas ! Confederate currency don't 
 pay railroad fare and hotel bills. The wheels of com- 
 merce seem to have come to a dead lock in this great 
 metropolis. This state of things cannot last much 
 longer without ruining two-thirds of the merchants. 
 There have already been several failures among the 
 dry goods' houses in the jobbing and importing 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 399 
 
 trade, and the end is not yet. The people will have 
 to look a little more closely into the laws of political 
 economy, and they will learn that fortunes are not 
 made in a day, but by years of toil, labor and econ- 
 omy. The vast volume of paper currency, the result 
 of the late war, filled the land with wild and reckless 
 speculators. The desire and facilities for making 
 money rapidly found its way among ail classes and 
 professions ; fortunes were made in a few months, 
 and are being lost in as many days. 
 
 The people are realizing that " riches have wings " 
 even in New York, and " he that hasteth to be rich, 
 shall not be innocent." The tendency here is for the 
 large houses to monopolize trade, and thereby crush 
 the smaller. How much better it would be for the 
 city to have one hundred houses sell in the aggregate 
 a hundred millions of dollars, than to have that 
 amount of business absorbed by Stewart and Clafiin. 
 Stewart began here with a small capital. By his in- 
 dustry and great mercantile abilities, in forty years 
 has become the richest man in America, if not in the 
 world. It is said his heart is as cold as the marble 
 palaces in which he has amassed his colossal fortune. 
 They say no merchant North has been so hard on 
 his unfortunate Southern creditors as A. T. Stewart. 
 Allowances should be made for the curses that are 
 heaped on Stewart's head. Every successful man has 
 his green-eyed enemies. It is easier to abuse this 
 merchant prince than to successfully compete with 
 him in business. New York is one of the most ex- 
 pensive cities in the world. There are a number 
 
400 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 of firms here that pay fifty thousand dollars per 
 annum rent, and as much more for clerk hire, per- 
 sonal expenses, etc. 
 
 You can readily perceive what a large amount of 
 business must be done to meet expenses. Rents are 
 enormously high, and yet there are more houses "to 
 let " than in former years. The aggregate banking 
 capital of New York City is eighty-five millions of 
 dollars, with liabilities amounting to three hundred 
 and fifty millions ! A large amount of this money 
 is due to individual depositors, and country banks 
 and bankers. These deposits are loaned by the 
 banks on " call." If there should be a commercial 
 panic, it would be like calling spirits from the vasty 
 deep. The banks have less than ten millions gold, 
 but not one dollar in ten of this sum belongs to 
 them. So long as government bonds are good, the 
 thirty-five million dollars circulation will be re- 
 deemed. I tell the financiers here that if they 
 don't want Sambo to vote for repudiation, they must 
 take off the tax of two and one-half cents per pound 
 on cotton and forty cents on tobacco. Would the 
 farmers of the Empire State of New York stand such 
 a tax on their wheat, corn, hay, etc.? I think not. 
 Why then impose this tax on the labor of the poor 
 white and colored people of the South ? 
 
 If there ever was a time when our people required 
 light taxation, now is the time, when they are strug- 
 gling for mere existence. 
 
 The commerce of this city is immense, and the 
 vast accumulation and concentration of capital here 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 40 1 
 
 must ever make New York the great commercial cen- 
 tre of America. The excessive imports into this city 
 in 1865— '66 resulted in heavy losses, not only to the 
 importers, but also to those who had large stocks on 
 hand. The decline on many description of goods 
 was fifty per cent. The imports into New York from 
 July 1865—66 were one hundred and eighty millions 
 of dollars against one hundred and forty millions the 
 present year. The above figures represent gold valu- 
 ations. When reduced to paper currency, with the 
 duties paid, of course the amount is largely increased. 
 The exports of domestic produce the present fiscal 
 year from New York was about one hundred and 
 seventy-four million, currency value, and forty mil- 
 lions gold and bullion. 
 
 The merchants and bankers here are looking with 
 great interest to the industrial developments of the 
 South. Want of capital is a great drawback to rapid 
 progress, but what we lack in capital should be made 
 up in industry, and money will flow into the South as 
 soon as reconstruction and confidence are restored, 
 but never while we remain in the present distracted con- 
 dition. Then let our people push on reconstruction. 
 Delay is fatal to our best interests. G. W. W. 
 
 51 
 
IMPRESSIONS OF ST. LOUIS. 
 
 St. Louis, Missouri, 1867. 
 I have spent six days in taking a careful survey of 
 this great Western City, and I am much more favor- 
 ably impressed with St. Louis, especially with its 
 brilliant prospects for the future, than with any city 
 west of the Alleghany. During the four years of 
 desolating war, the commerce of St. Louis was locked, 
 and the keys given to her rival, the Garden City, on 
 Lake Michigan. Chicago, being one of the most 
 wide-awake towns west of New York, was not slow 
 in taking advantage of her position. Her shrewd 
 merchants, with the key of disloyal St. Louis in their 
 pockets, could get permits to ship immense cargoes 
 of merchandize to and from St. Louis, thereby reap- 
 ing the profits that legitimately belonged to this city. 
 It is said that immense fortunes were made in this 
 way, and that some army officers shared in the spoils. 
 As the people of Missouri are not yet fully recon- 
 structed, allowance must be made for the stories they 
 tell of their neighbors across the river. I was amused 
 to witness the rivalry that exists between the two 
 cities. A Missourian would as soon invest his money 
 in the sand banks of Saco Beach, as in real estate in 
 Chicago, for he devoutly believes — if not hopes — that 
 Chicago is to receive her final doom long before the 
 general conflagration — that she is not to be destroyed 
 by fire, but is to be buried beneath the angry billows 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 403 
 
 of Lake Michigan. If the wealthy men of this city- 
 would imitate the " reckless speculators " of Chicago 
 in pushing forward to completion their line of rail- 
 ways, they would then have less cause to be jealous 
 of their energetic and prosperous neighbors. Forty 
 years ago the site on which Chicago now stands, was 
 a wilderness inhabited by savage Indians. At present 
 it is the centre of a great net-work of railways, and has 
 become a rich and prosperous city, having some two 
 hundred thousand inhabitants, and is one of the largest 
 grain depots in the world. 
 
 St. Louis, however, is destined to be the New York 
 of the West. It is built on solid rock, on the west 
 bank of the father of waters, a single branch of 
 which is navigable up the great Northwest, three 
 thousand two hundred miles. Situated as St. Louis 
 is, in the centre of the Valley of the Mississippi, mid- 
 way between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, it is to 
 be the commercial heart of North America. Nature 
 has marked St. Louis as the great inland metropolis 
 of this Continent ; her twenty thousand miles of nav- 
 igable waters pouring their rich cargoes into this 
 mart, with lines of railroads which are to tap the 
 Pacific, surrounded by one hundred thousand square 
 miles of the most fertile land on the globe. With 
 these streams of gold pouring into her, St. Louis 
 must in time become one of the richest and most 
 populous cities in America. 
 
 If church steeples are any indication of the piety 
 of a city, then St. Louis must be considered a pious 
 city. She has one hundred and fifteen churches, ten 
 
404 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 convents, numerous universities, high schools, medi- 
 cal colleges, academies, etc. She has fifteen orphan 
 asylums and homes for the widows and destitute. 
 The Roman Catholics are building here one of the 
 finest Cathedrals in the United States. St Louis has 
 fifty incorporated banks and private banking houses, 
 employing a capital of forty millions of dollars. She 
 also has forty-five insurance companies. Fifteen hun- 
 dred buildings, mostly of brick and stone, were erected 
 during the past year. Ten daily newspapers are 
 printed here ; some of them are ably edited. 
 
 The Merchant's Exchange reminded me of the 
 world-renowned Bourse of old Hamberg, in Ger- 
 many. At 11 o'clock, the merchants, bankers and 
 brokers, representing every branch of commerce, 
 assemble in a spacious hall, and dispose of the rich 
 cargoes of merchandize, grain and provisions which 
 are being landed on the spacious levee from the float- 
 ing palaces, just in from the Rocky Mountains or the 
 Gulf of Mexico. St. Louis sold last year more than 
 two hundred million dollars worth of provisions and 
 merchandize ; her trade can be doubled if she will 
 push forward her line of railways. The economical 
 Germans are to be met here in every branch of com- 
 merce and profession, and by their industry and fru- 
 gality have added much to the wealth of their adopted 
 city. The active, enterprising Yankees have also done 
 their share in building up the commerce of St. Louis. 
 The New Englanders who come West remind me of 
 a boy I knew in the mountains of Georgia, who des- 
 troyed one-half of his mother's chickens in his impa- 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 405 
 
 tience to have them "hatch" in less than twenty-one 
 days. The New Englanders, with their activity and 
 energy of character, clear the forests, build railroads, 
 erect rude dwellings, lay the foundation for great 
 cities, but they can't wait the full twenty-one 
 days. They are impatient to realize, sell out and take 
 hold of a new enterprise. Many a fortune is lost, 
 much happiness destroyed, and many a chicken killed 
 in the shell by this impatient, restless spirit. You 
 might as well expect the waters that flow over the 
 rapids above the falls of Niagara to flow gently and 
 smoothly as that the " irrepressible " Yankee should 
 remain quietly in a Western home, especially when 
 he hears that there are richer lands a few hundred 
 miles further West. 
 
 The mountains of mineral wealth which lie at the 
 very doors of St. Louis will necessarily make her a 
 great manufacturing as well as a great commercial 
 city. In addition to its rich mines of coal, lead and 
 iron, they have recently discovered tin. 
 
 St. Louis possesses the elements of greatness in 
 having an abundance of cheap food, cheap fuel, and 
 cheap transportation. 
 
 I go to-morrow to Iron Mountain, and then further 
 West, on the Pacific Railroad. 
 
 If the Indians don't scalp me, you may hear from 
 me again from the Western wilds. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 
COMMERCIAL AND POLITICAL PROSPECTS AT 
 THE SOUTH. 
 
 [for the journal of commerce.] 
 
 New York, 1867. 
 
 Messrs. Editors : I send you an extract from a 
 letter written by an old Charleston merchant, who 
 has, during the past two months, travelled extensively 
 through South Carolina, Georgia, and a portion of 
 Alabama. The writer of the letter is a careful obser- 
 ver, not given to looking too favorably on the bright 
 side of things. Four years of desolating war broke 
 all of our banks at the South ; the currency of the 
 country, which amounted to almost as much as the 
 whole debt of the United States, collapsed with the 
 Confederacy ; many of our towns and cities were 
 destroyed ; ruin was spread broadcast throughout the 
 land. Our people, however, have left to them their 
 land, which is the foundation of all wealth. 
 
 I have made, during the summer months, an exten- 
 sive tour, first through the States where the farms are 
 worked by freed colored labor ; and recently through 
 the West, where white labor prevails. To my utter 
 surprise the farms are much better cultivated at the 
 South than in the West. If the politicians will only 
 let the South quietly reconstruct their soil, the crops, 
 instead of being worth four hundred millions of dol- 
 lars per annum, will in a short time be worth a thou- 
 sand millions ! 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 407 
 
 The negroes certainly have a greater incentive to 
 work now than when they were slaves. 
 
 My experience during the past two years proves 
 that they do much better, under the circumstances by 
 which they are surrounded, than could be expected. 
 It is estimated that the South has lost three thousand 
 million dollars by the abolition of slavery. If the 
 freed or colored labor can be utilized — that is, if the 
 four millions of men and women who were recently 
 slaves, can produce by their labor as much cotton, 
 corn, sugar and rice now as they did before the war, 
 the South will, in a short time, regain her wealth, and 
 again become great and prosperous. What we want 
 above all things is peace. Political anarchy is ruin. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 The following is the extract above alluded to : 
 
 " In regard to the commercial prospects of our 
 Southern country, I am much more hopeful than I 
 was before my inland trip, and rather more hopeful 
 than you seem to be at the present moment. When 
 you remember that the South the past year has had 
 little money to spare except for bread and for appli- 
 ances for planting, you cannot wonder that securities 
 of all kinds have been, and are very cheap. But bear 
 in mind that the wheat and oat crops have been 
 heavy, that corn is made and is abundant, and that 
 cotton in general looks well, and you will have reason 
 to believe that the coming fall and winter will produce 
 great commercial changes. The money value of 
 Southern crops cannot be less than four hundred mil- 
 
408 Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 lion dollars, of which the negro will receive above a 
 quarter, every dollar of which he will spend at the 
 South ; and, as the planter has made, generally, his 
 provisions for next year, he will also have a large 
 supply of money. What can he do with it? He 
 cannot buy negroes. He will not invest it in North- 
 ern securities — possibly not in governmental. He 
 has no taste to improve his dwelling, and he will 
 get tired of hoarding gold. Is it not, therefore, a 
 fair inference that he will begin to seek Southern 
 securities ? And when the ball begins to roll, there 
 will be a rush, and a great advance in their value. I 
 sought for the cause of the rapid building up of 
 Atlanta. It was not done by Northern capital — but 
 largely through money owned by planters — who pre- 
 fer mortgages in Atlanta to any other security. They 
 have, in many cases, loaned their money at seven per 
 cent, interest to rebuild their favorite city. And in 
 Georgia, even now, they can find capital to build fac- 
 tories, go on with railroads, and other improvements. 
 What will it be when four hundred millions more 
 money is put afloat ? 
 
 " The political horizon is dark, but not hopeless ; 
 the storm will soon blow over, while the great masses 
 of our people will quietly go on with their industrial 
 employments. What we need now beyond all account 
 for the business of our city, is a railroad from Poco- 
 taligo to Millen ; this would open a straight railroad 
 line to Shrieveport, beyond the Mississippi, and so on 
 to Texas, and give us a part of the great trade of the 
 Gulf. We shall lose a part of upper Georgia and 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 409 
 
 Tennessee when the Hamburg and Columbia Road is 
 finished, but we can make it up and five times over, 
 if we can connect at Millen. The Central Road is 
 now with us in this thing, for their trade is tapped at 
 Macon. They will be willing to save one hundred 
 and twenty-one mil.es to Millen, if they do lose travel 
 on seventy-nine miles from there to Savannah." 
 
 GOV. SCOTT AND THE NEWS. 
 
 The following correspondence is published in the 
 Columbia " Phcenix." As the matter to which it 
 refers is one of public importance, we place the let- 
 ters in full before our readers. — Charleston Nezvs. 
 
 [LETTER FROM GEO. W. WILLIAMS, ESQ.] 
 
 Charleston, April 3, 1869. 
 Governor: I seldom read the newspapers beyond 
 the commercial information they contain ; neither 
 have I taken any part in politics since the defeat of 
 Clay, in 1844, and I attach but little importance to 
 what the newspapers may say of you and your admin- 
 istration. I must confess, however, that the editorial 
 which appeared in to-day's " News " fills my mind 
 with the gloomiest apprehensions. I sincerely hope 
 that the Charleston editor is the victim of an April 
 fool, for I have too much confidence in your judg- 
 ment to believe that you would, at this season of the 
 year, and in time of perfect 'peace, introduce an ele- 
 52 
 
4 1 o Miscellaneous Correspondence. 
 
 merit in the State which would demoralize the agri- 
 cultural labor from the seaboard to the mountains. 
 You have lived long enough at the South, Governor, 
 to learn something of the negro character, and how 
 easily they are drawn from their daily pursuits by 
 circus exhibitions and military parades. The forma- 
 tion of a few negro regiments at this time, would not 
 only have the most disastrous effects upon the agri- 
 cultural laborers (both white and black) of the State, 
 but would unquestionably lead to a war of races. 
 
 The merchants and factors of Charleston are strain- 
 ing every nerve to aid the planters, and they have 
 been gratified to learn that the negroes throughout 
 the State were working with unusual energy, and 
 were much better pleased with their prospects than 
 at any time since the termination of the war. You 
 have, Governor, seen enough of war to fully appre- 
 ciate the value of peace. A few years of peace will 
 restore the old Palmetto State to her former pros- 
 perity ; but a war of races will prove ruinous to the 
 interests of both white and black, and reduce the 
 State to anarchy and ruin. I trust you will tele- 
 graph me to contradict the statement made in the 
 " Daily News." You cannot well imagine the deep 
 feeling and apprehension of trouble the article has 
 excited among the sober and well-disposed men of 
 this community. 
 
 I have the honor to remain, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 (Signed) GEO. W. WILLIAMS. 
 
 To Governor R. K. Scott, Columbia, S. C. 
 
Miscellaneous Correspondence. 4 1 1 
 
 To this the following reply was transmitted by tele- 
 graph : 
 
 Columbia, April 4, 1869. 
 Geo. W. Williams, Esq. : Say to well-disposed busi- 
 ness men of Charleston, that they should have seen 
 heretofore enough of such blood and thunder fulmi- 
 nations as the one you forward me, clipped from the 
 " News," to have justified them in treating the authors 
 with contempt, and the article with indifference. I 
 will reply to you by mail. 
 
 ROBERT K. SCOTT, 
 
 Governor. 
 
NACOOCHEE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 LETTER ONE. 
 
 NACOOCHEE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 Home again ! Yes, after long years of desolating 
 war, I find myself once more at my old home in the 
 mountains of Georgia, in the sweet vale of Nacoochee, 
 
 " Where the zephyrs perfume as from the spice islands, 
 Mount up from the valley to welcome the morn, 
 Where the gale robs the zephyrs to gladden the highlands, 
 With sweetness that e'en to proud Yonah is borne. 
 
 "Tis a valley of peace, rich in every soft feature, 
 In sunshine or shade, in its own verdant green, 
 
 'Tis Georgia's Egeria, most lovely by nature 
 
 Carved out of a chaos of wild mountain scene." 
 
 In my ramble of twenty thousand miles, I have 
 found no country to me more lovely than Nacoochee 
 and its surroundings. Not even the tropical valleys 
 of the West Indies, with their majestic palms, fragrant 
 flowers and fruits; nor Italy, with its vine-clad hills 
 and groves of olives and oranges ; nor Switzerland, 
 with its silvery lakes, fertile valleys, mountain gorges 
 and snow-capped Alps. The name of the sweet Indian 
 
NacoocJiee and its Surroundings. 4 1 3 
 
 word Nacoochee is " Evening Star." The name was 
 applied to a beautiful daughter of a Cherokee Chief. 
 
 Through the charming valley of Nacoochee, the 
 picturesque Chattahoochee winds its way. Broad 
 fields of Indian corn, and flowering meadow lands 
 skirt its banks. Not even a thirty years exile from 
 this mountain home lessens the throbbing of my heart 
 as I return to it ; and the return to Nacoochee, at this 
 time, is made doubly interesting, as I brought with 
 me two sisters who had been absent nearly a score of 
 years. That white house peeping out of the grove, 
 (now the residence of my youngest sister,) is the home 
 in which my parents, of precious memory, lived and 
 died. The grand old oaks which have withstood the 
 storms of a century — the trees under which we in child- 
 hood frolicked, are still green, and annually send forth 
 their autumn fruit. The little Lombardy poplars plant- 
 ed by our tiny hands have grown to be lofty trees. The 
 modest Methodist Church near by, is where Andrew 
 and Olin thundered forth their youthful eloquence, and 
 where Richardson, Askew, Glenn, and other sainted 
 ministers, preached in the prime of their manhood. 
 
 And there, too, is the mound on which I made my 
 first adventure in agriculture. It was the custom of 
 my father, as a means of encouraging his sons to 
 habits of industry, to give to each a small portion of 
 land, the products of which they claimed as their 
 own. My broad acre begun at the foot and ended at 
 the summit of the Indian mound. It was too steep 
 and rugged to be cultivated by the plough. I had to 
 rely entirely upon the hoe. 
 
414 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 Having pitched my crop, the tender plants sprang 
 forth from the rich soil, and my hopes ran high at the 
 prospect of a bountiful yield. Alas ! for human hopes 
 and expectations, the scorching suns of July came, 
 but not a drop of rain. While my father's well cul- 
 tivated fields of corn in the moist valley below were 
 fresh and luxuriant, mine on the mound began to wilt 
 and droop. The prospect of becoming a bankrupt 
 farmer daily became more threatening. As I stood 
 gazing on my blighted prospects, and thinking what 
 should be done, my eye fell upon the beautiful Chat- 
 tahoochee, which makes nearly a circuit around the 
 mound. At the sight of this mountain stream hope 
 revived. I saw that success was now within my 
 grasp. No time was lost in applying to each thirsty 
 hill of corn the refreshing water, which was brought 
 in a bucket from the Chattahoochee by the light of 
 the moon. This patient and unwearied application of 
 water at a time when rain failed to fall from the clouds, 
 saved my crop and made my fortune of ten dollars ! 
 
 To this circumstance, though apparently trivial in 
 itself, I attribute much of my success in after life. This 
 small capital often dollars was what I had to begin life 
 with, after a walk of one hundred and fifty miles from 
 Nacoochee to Augusta, Ga., at which city I arrived in 
 1838. In the rough path of commerce, over which I 
 have traveled many long years, I have encountered 
 scorching drouths, financial panics, desolating wars and 
 steep mounds, covered with thorns and thistles. 
 
 At times, I felt that the burdens and difficulties I 
 had to overcome were greater than I could bear, and 
 
Nacoochcc and its Surroundings. 415 
 
 often was tempted to falter by the way ; but in these 
 trials I always remembered the small farm on the 
 Nacoochee mound, and the lesson it taught me — 
 which was to have faith and a general reliance in 
 Providence, but never to fail in using all the means a 
 merciful God had placed within my reach. I have 
 learned from hard-earned experience that success 
 means toil, energy, watchfulness, order, justice, so- 
 briety and economy. In this day men are not fed 
 by ravens, but are commanded to earn their bread by 
 the sweat of the brow — a commandment some people 
 find very hard to obey. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 Nacoochee Valley, August, 1869. 
 
 LETTER TWO. 
 
 Nacoochee Valley, Ga., August, 1869. 
 Seventy years ago, my father, Major Edward Wil- 
 liams, was a resident of Charleston, S. C. An attack 
 of " stranger's fever " and small-pox led him to seek 
 a home in a more salubrious climate. This he found 
 in the mountains of North Carolina, where he also 
 found a sprightly mountain girl, the daughter of a 
 successful merchant, whom he married. His home 
 was filled in a few years with half a score of boys and 
 girls. These new responsibilities made it necessary 
 that he should have cheap and productive land, on 
 which to make bread to feed them. 
 
4 1 6 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 When my father visited this portion of Georgia, 
 then almost a wilderness country, it was settled mainly 
 by Indians ; scattered here and there were a few 
 whites, in civilization not much in advance of the sav- 
 ages ; only their superiors in cunning and knavery. 
 My father was so much pleased with the rich lands, 
 pure air and water, and magnificent mountain scenery, 
 that he made an extensive purchase, embracing the 
 centre of Nacoochee Valley. A portion of this pur- 
 chase was to be paid for in corn and wheat. This 
 was easily done, as the farms were rented to industri- 
 ous tenants, whom he brought with him from North 
 Carolina. As the Valley was very productive, three 
 years' rent was sufficient to discharge the debt. The 
 land which sold at that time for one dollar per acre, 
 now commands from twenty to thirty. 
 
 At one time Nacoochee was the largest town in the 
 Cherokee Nation, and was strongly defended by forti- 
 fications. 
 
 Along the lines of these fortifications, mounds were 
 raised, on which Indian chiefs securely resided in 
 their mud-thatched palaces. By whom raised, tradi- 
 tion fails to say. Such labors were clearly beyond 
 the capacity of the red men, who possessed none of 
 the necessary implements for such work. It is believed 
 that the daring Spaniards visited this country as early 
 as the twelfth century in search of gold and diamonds, 
 and were permitted to erect the fortifications of " Na- 
 coochee Old Town." But when the savage curiosity 
 was satisfied, the Spaniards were exterminated. But 
 all these traditions are not only problematical, but 
 
NacoocJice and its Surroundings. 417 
 
 some of them are in conflict with known facts of his- 
 tory. It would be better to say Europeans than 
 Spaniards. 
 
 What a change ! Not a vestige of that ancient 
 town remains ; the Indians who possessed this beau- 
 tiful country have been driven from their cherished 
 hunting grounds to the far West. The once strong 
 walls of Nacoochee are levelled to the ground, and 
 the mounds, which cost so much toil and labor, are 
 sharing the same fate. No proud monument stands 
 to point out the resting place of the old chiefs and 
 their brave warriors. 
 
 The lofty pine which withstood the pelting storms 
 of centuries, the tree that marks the grave of Nacoo- 
 chee and bore aloft the Confederate flag during the 
 late bloody war, died with our lost cause. It is now 
 a blighted tree — fit emblem of the temptest-tost Con- 
 federacy. 
 
 The white man, as he drives his plough merily over 
 the bones of his red brother, thinks that he came hon- 
 estly in the possession of these broad acres. If any 
 wrong was committed, has it not been amply atoned 
 for by the introduction among the savages of pure 
 New England rum and pious missionaries ? The 
 dreadful work of extermination which was com- 
 menced by the Pilgrim Fathers centuries ago ; an 
 extermination which has been unceasingly kept up 
 in the name of Christianity ! is fast blotting from the 
 earth a great family of populous nations. At the 
 last day, when Gabriel sounds his trumpet to awake 
 the slumbering dead, and the great book is opened, 
 53 
 
41 8 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 nations and governments, as well as individuals, will 
 call upon the mountains to fall upon them, that they 
 and their sins may be hidden from the Judge that sit- 
 teth on the Throne. 
 
 Tradition has it, that Nacoochee, the " Evening 
 Star," was the only daughter of a noted Cherokee 
 chief. She possessed remarkable beauty and grace 
 of manners. This lovely maid of the valley was 
 wooed by many a gallant youth, but unfortunately 
 was won by a brave young warrior of the Choctaw 
 Nation, a people at that time bitter enemies of the 
 Cherokees, and frequently engaged in fierce warfare 
 with them. 
 
 One dark night, Nacoochee disappeared from her 
 vine-clad wigwam ; she had eloped with Sautee, son 
 of a Choctaw chief. The father of Nacoochee sum- 
 moned a hundred stout warriors to go in pursuit of 
 his erring daughter. The valleys and mountains 
 echoed the terrific war-whoop, as they were search- 
 ing every hill and dale. 
 
 Days and nights passed, but Sautee and the bright- 
 eyed Indian girl could nowhere be found. 
 
 The enraged father refused to eat or sleep. He 
 believed that the lovers had sought refuge under the 
 Great Bear (Yonah) of the Valley. Renewed and 
 more diligent search was made. Sautee had selected. 
 a bridal chamber for his young princess (which was 
 amply supplied with venison and wild turkey,) amid 
 the rocky fastnesses of Mount Yonah. He regarded 
 the rugged cliffs rising in their native grandeur 
 around him as secure from the intrusion of friend or 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 419 
 
 foe. Nacoochee's new home must have been a second 
 Eden. Before her stood out a world of mountains, 
 rising one above another until their lofty peaks were 
 lost in the blue sky, while at her feet nestled the 
 lovely valleys of Nacochee and Sautee, covered with 
 fragrant forest flowering trees, and brilliant rhododen- 
 drons and azaleas. From the crevices in her granite 
 palace gushed forth pure, perennial streams, which 
 are joined by a thousand mountain springs that con- 
 stitute the head-waters of the picturesque Chatta- 
 hoochee River, and which like the rivers that run 
 out of the Garden of Eden abound in gold. 
 
 The cries of the wolf and nighthawk disturbed not 
 the slumbers of the youthful lovers. But Nacoochee 
 and Sautee could no more successfully conceal them- 
 selves from the revengful warriors, than could Adam 
 and Eve hide from the presence of the Father of the 
 great human family, after having listened to the beguil- 
 ing serpent and eaten of the forbidden fruit. A savage 
 shout of victory announced the capture of the foe, 
 who had dared rob the old chief of his daughter. Hasty 
 judgment was pronounced — Sautee was to be thrown, 
 in the presence of Nacoochee, from the highest preci- 
 pice of Mount Yonah. Before the sentence was exe- 
 cuted, the warriors engaged in a death song and war- 
 dance around the strongly guarded prisoner. This 
 was kept up until the setting sun had dropped behind 
 the western mountains, and the evening star was 
 looking down upon the tragic scene. 
 
 At a signal from the old chief, four strong warriors 
 seized Sautee, and with one terrific yell hurled him 
 
42 O Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 headlong int» the deep chasm beneath. Quick as 
 thought, Nacoochee sprang from the strong embrace 
 of her father, and, shouting " Sautee ! Sautee ! " 
 threw herself from the overhanging precipice. Their 
 mangled remains were found side by side in the valley. 
 The terrific shock well-nigh broke the heart of the 
 aged father. He directed that Nacoochee and Sautee 
 should be buried on the banks of the Chattahoochee 
 in one grave, and a mound raised over them to mark 
 the spot. This has been planted in vines and blue 
 grass. The cypress, ivy and rhododendron, cover the 
 grave of Nacoochee and Sautee. 
 
 The Valleys of Nacoochee and Sautee, which unite 
 just below the residence of Colonel E. P. Williams, 
 were named to perpetuate the memories of the young 
 Cherokee girl and her Choctaw lover. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
LETTER THREE 
 
 Nacoochee Valley, Ga., August, 1869. 
 
 The discovery of gold here in 1828, was an epoch 
 in the history of this quiet mountain people. 
 
 Those who owned forty acre lots dreamed of golden 
 fortunes, very few of which were ever realized. The 
 excitement was greatly increased by the discovery of 
 a lump of gold in a neighboring State weighing 
 twenty-eight pounds. It is not an uncommon occur- 
 rence here to find pieces weighing from one to three 
 pounds. 
 
 People flocked to this new El Dorado from all sec- 
 tions of the country. Even the great Calhoun did 
 not escape the prevailing epidemic. Your corres- 
 pondent, then a small boy, knew every by-path 
 through the mountains ; and to him was assigned the 
 honor of piloting the Carolina statesman to Yonah, 
 the mines, and other places of interest. It was the 
 year the " abominable " Tariff Act was passed, and 
 about the time Mr. Calhoun resigned his position as 
 Vice-President under the hero of New Orleans. 
 
 Mr. Calhoun was at Nacoochee when the news was 
 received that South Carolina had " nullified." I shall 
 never forget how much he was excited. He would 
 walk the floor for hours in the deepest meditation, 
 frequently passing his long fingers nervously through 
 his hair, which stood almost erect on his head. The 
 
422 Nacoochee and its Surroundings . 
 
 great mind of Calhoun penetrated the future ; he saw 
 that the political events which were then transpiring 
 North and South, would result either in a dissolution 
 of the Federal Union, or a desolating civil war. Mr. 
 Calhoun seemed to dread the one as much as the 
 other. While he regarded many acts of Congress as 
 odious, unjust and oppressive to the South, yet he 
 was not at that time in favor of a dissolution of the 
 Union ; he stood firmly upon the Constitution handed 
 down to us by our forefathers. 
 
 The political fever, however, had not taken so entire 
 possession of the great Carolina statesman as that he 
 should escape the gold mania ; he had studied politi- 
 cal economy enough to know that gold was the only 
 true representative of all values, and the great leveller 
 of social distinctions. 
 
 It was the custom of the miners and speculators 
 who had " deposits " or " veins " for sale to prepare 
 them for " testing." My father warned Mr. Calhoun 
 against the slight-of-hand which was practiced by 
 many of these Wall street adventurers ; but the man 
 who was wondrously wise in politics and books, heeded 
 not the advice, and was a child in the clutches of the 
 rude miners. 
 
 To be certain that there was no deception, Mr. Cal- 
 houn would select a piece of ground untouched by 
 the spade, stand by and see the small trees removed, 
 then the earth, until the gravel and slate were reached, 
 which was washed before our eyes. If, unluckily, 
 they did not succeed in finding gold, not a few were 
 unscrupulous enough to have it concealed about their 
 
NacoocJicc and its Surroundings. 423 
 
 persons, which was by the slight-of-hand transferred 
 into the pan. This was what was called " salting," 
 and there were not a few victims to this mode of 
 " cornering." Mr. Calhoun paid ten thousand dollars 
 for a mine not worth as many hundred ; he, however, 
 purchased a vein of ore which proved to be of im- 
 mense value. The gold was embedded in a stratum 
 of rocks, and there could be no deception practiced 
 in such mines. Since that day, there have been great 
 improvements in working the mines. The old boxes 
 and log troughs have given place to the hydraulic 
 process, and all the latest improvements in machinery 
 have been introduced. 
 
 The Nacoochee Hydraulic Mining Company was 
 established just before the late war, mainly by enter- 
 prising New Englanders. 
 
 The water is carried in a canal twelve miles in 
 length, which cost some forty thousand dollars. 
 
 The canal has its source in the Blue Ridge, and is 
 carried on the side of the mountain. With its 
 branches, which spread out on the ridges, thou- 
 sands of acres of land can be irrigated and washed. 
 Deposits and veins of gold extend the entire length 
 of the canal and its branches. 
 
 The Nacoochee Company own and have under 
 lease, eight hundred acres of the best mining ground 
 in Georgia. 
 
 It is surprising to see with what force the water 
 passes through the pipes, washing down the hills 
 almost as easily as if they were so many banks of 
 snow. Few persons fully comprehend the power 
 
424 Nacooclice and its Surroundings. 
 
 and force of water. Such streams as pass through 
 the Nacoochee Canal, if allowed to flow down the 
 side of the loftiest mountain unobstructed by rocks, 
 would in a short time level it with the valley. A 
 friend of mine, who had charge of one of the aque- 
 ducts, came near being buried alive. An old tunnel, 
 which had been dug many years ago, was penetrated 
 by water from the canal, which had been gradually 
 undermining the mountain for days. My friend 
 heard an unusual roaring, and saw the forest trees 
 near him begin to shake and the earth to quiver ; 
 then followed a loud crash. The trees and ground 
 were swallowed in an immense chasm ; he had just 
 left the spot that disappeared forever. 
 
 When and how the rich deposits and gold-bearing 
 rocks were formed is a mooted question between 
 learned geologists who have given much attention to 
 this interesting branch of science. Dr. M. F. Steph- 
 enson, one of the most experienced miners in the 
 South, and a gentleman of more than ordinary intel- 
 ligence, in a recent communication upon the subject 
 of " segregated gold veins," writes : 
 
 " When the Yonah Mountain and Blue Ridge for 
 nine hundred miles were elevated the true veins 
 were formed, which made the placers or deposits at 
 Richardson's mine, at Nacoochee, and on the moun- 
 tain near Dean's Cabin. All of which veins are and 
 will be found to traverse or cross the strata, proving 
 that they were made after the stratified rocks were 
 hardened, and by their upheaval were fissured, and 
 those fissures were filled with silica, gold, iron, etc., 
 
NacoocJiee and its Surroundings. 425 
 
 which, upon coating, formed the fissure veins, some 
 of which have been found; and those at Nacoochee 
 will be found whenever the company abandons the 
 absurd theory of Professor Blake, and adopts the 
 only rational one of recent volcanic action ; for it is 
 an axiom that massive gold is never found in a 
 ' segregated vein ' nor smooth nuggets. Why ? 
 Because the gold by segregation in silica becomes 
 ragged and rough, when that from volcanic veins with 
 oxide of iron cools off in a matrix, which leaves it 
 smooth as if water-worn. These are facts which are 
 predicated on the immutable laws of chemistry and 
 God, and cannot be successfully contradicted. The 
 vein which formed by decomposition the Richardson 
 mine — the McGhee mine, where the company are 
 now finding large nuggets — was formed when Yonah 
 Mountain was upheaved, and is a cross vein, or what 
 is technically called a true or fissure vein, and runs 
 from Richardson's house to the Dean hill on the 
 McGhee lot, in a northwesterly direction ; this is 
 proved by the ravines, which all yield similar nuggets 
 when they cross this line of vein, and also by the 
 volcanic rock which intrudes — all proves a fissure to 
 exist, and when found, like the Loud mine, will 
 prove to be worth millions, for fissure veins always 
 improve in size and quality." 
 
 There is more gold in " Nacoochee and its Sur- 
 roundings " than there is in the vaults of all the 
 banks in the United States. How much it will cost 
 to remove it from the present snug deposits remains 
 to be seen. The expense of mining, since the intro- 
 54 
 
426 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 duction of improved machinery, is greatly reduced; 
 with the use of canals and pipes one man can do the 
 work of a dozen under the old process. The result 
 is that mines are now worked at a profit, which were 
 abandoned years ago. I see no reason why fortunes 
 should not be realized by those who are engaged in 
 mining under the California system. The best valley 
 land here, commands fifty dollars per acre ; the pro- 
 prietors sell with great reluctance, as they do not know 
 but that, in parting with a ten acre lot, they may sell 
 a gold mine worth a hundred thousand dollars. 
 
 I have a nugget of gold weighing five-eights of a 
 pound, which was picked up recently by my brother, 
 Colonel E. P. Williams, in a field near his residence. 
 This gold had been ploughed over for many years, 
 and was brought to light by a hard washing rain. 
 You can scarcely sink a pit in these hills and valleys 
 without finding particles of gold. When a little boy, 
 I got the gold fever up to one hundred degrees Fah- 
 renheit, and prevailed on my father to embark in 
 mining. To my great delight, he promised to begin 
 operations the next morning. That night visions of 
 gold dazzled my wakeful eyes. I was impatient for 
 the coming of morning. At the break of day, I was 
 with my father in the barn yard — he ordered me to 
 put the plough-harness upon " Old Dick," a favorite 
 horse he brought from North Carolina. 
 
 In a short time Dick was harnessed, and I was 
 directed to hitch him to the plough ! I thought this 
 a new mode of " digging gold," but as my father's 
 orders were never questioned, I silently obeyed. 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 427 
 
 My father selected a broad corn field on which to 
 initiate me in the mysteries of mining. Carrying me 
 to the field, he said : " Now George, you see the corn; 
 plough four furrows carefully between each row. 
 This field is a sure gold mine — one that has never 
 failed me. We will make corn to sell to those men 
 who spend all their time hunting for gold." I fol- 
 lowed "Old Dick" and my father's orders to the 
 letter. When the hard day's work was over, I took for 
 supper rye mush and milk. That night I was too 
 tired and too little fanciful to dream ; by morning the 
 gold fever was so effectually cured, I have never had 
 a return of it. 
 
 September, 1869. G. W. W. 
 
 LETTER FOUR 
 
 " Child of the Chattahoochee ! 
 
 Hid in the hills afar ! 
 Beautiful Nacoochee, 
 
 Vale of the Evening Star ! 
 
 " Hushed in the mountain shadows, 
 With the May dew on her breast ; 
 
 Her breath, is the breath of meadows, 
 And her very name sighs ' rest !' 
 
 " The voice of a loved one calling, 
 The feet that have wandered far ; 
 
 Come, for the night is falling ! 
 Rest! with the Evening Star." 
 
428 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 Once more I find myself in the bosom of this 
 " Child of the Chattahoochee," and after the cares, 
 toils and perplexities of a winter's business campaign, 
 my quiet mountain home is indeed to me, Rest. 
 
 To be comfortable here, one must come with bag 
 and baggage, carriage and horses, cook and supplies. 
 The travel of two hundred and fifty miles by rail, and 
 seventy miles over rough roads, sharpens the appetite, 
 if it does not improve the temper. But what will not 
 a man or woman endure for a change? Human 
 nature is the same now, that it was when Adam and 
 Eve grew tired of looking at the same perpetual 
 blooming flowers in their Eden. Beautiful, plentiful 
 and peaceful as was their home, they were not satis- 
 fied. They were doubtless both happier when driven 
 from Paradise, even with the heavy penalties placed 
 upon them, than they would have been wandering 
 about for ages, looking upon the same objects, with 
 that tree of forbidden fruit ever and anon in their 
 pathway ; not that the quality was superior to that 
 which grew on all the other trees, but it was "forbid- 
 den fruit," and, therefore, the more to be desired- 
 Nature, too, is ever changing ; spring comes with its 
 buds and flowers, summer with its full verdure, and 
 autumn with its ripe fruit and sear leaf, and then 
 dreary winter with its chilling frosts and ice, but these 
 changes of seasons, fields and forests, are necessary 
 both for health and happiness. This is peculiarly an 
 age of change. Even the child quits its garden of 
 flowers, and luxuriant city home for the rude and 
 almost comfortless mountain cabin, with an enthu- 
 
Nacooclice and its Surroundings. /^2g 
 
 siasm that is refreshing to witness ; and children of 
 a larger growth, from custom and habit do the same 
 thing. 
 
 I am convinced that the young are benefited, men- 
 tally and physically, by a change from the city to the 
 country. The most conceited are those who are 
 brought up from childhood to manhood within the 
 walls of a populous city. They know next to nothing 
 of the country, its people, or its products, and look 
 upon the outside world as only removed a few steps 
 from barbarism. 
 
 Not many days since a party left Charleston on the 
 night train for Augusta. Children predominated, and 
 they were so overjoyed at the idea of getting to the 
 country, they would neither sleep themselves, nor 
 permit their neighbors to sleep. 
 
 A gentlemen said to his good wife, " my dear, where 
 did these children get their restless, nervous temper- 
 ament, and red heads from. I am sure I am not very 
 nervous, neither is my head particularly red?" She 
 replied, " Oh no, not red, but slightly flesh-color, 
 especially on the crown." Something was said by 
 way of retort about gray hairs, but the children kept 
 up such a noise it was difficult to hear. 
 
 The heavy rains for the past month have well nigh 
 made a frog-pond of the flat country lying on the line 
 of railway. The myriads of frogs kept up a per- 
 petual croaking, such as can only be heard in a Caro- 
 lina swamp. 
 
 The children were amused at the almost constant 
 " quack, quack, quacking," with an occasional " foo- 
 dle-de-doe." A little three year old girl inquired of 
 
430 Nacoocliee and its Surroundings. 
 
 her brother frequently what it was that made such 
 strange noises, and was told it was " bull-frogs." By 
 morning, her curiosity to see a bull-frog was up to 
 fever-heat. About daylight a number of half fed pigs 
 were startled by the whistle of the engine. Little 
 Mattie saw them, and said, " Oh Buddie George, look 
 at the bull-frogs ! do look at the bull-frogs ! I never 
 saw a bull-frog before in all my life." At the next 
 depot a herd of goats made their appearence, and 
 Mattie wanted to know if they also were bull-frogs, 
 being informed they were "billy-goats," "billy-goats, 
 with wickers like papa's," was her innocent reply. 
 Near by was a flock of sheep, these were as new to 
 Mattie as the pigs and goats. Being told they were 
 sheep, " Oh pretty &7/j/-sheep," said she. Now if 
 little Mattie had remained in the city until she was 
 ten times three, her knowledge of pigs and goats 
 would not have improved much. 
 
 It does children good to go into the country and 
 rough it, and learn about pigs, goats and the like ; 
 and if they get their dainty fingers soiled and delicate 
 complexions sunburnt, and now and then come in 
 contact with " rough country people," it won't injure 
 them, morally, mentally, or physically. On the con- 
 trary their constitutions will be strengthened, and 
 their wits sharpened. They can learn quite as much 
 from the " country cracker," as the country child 
 can from the city bonne, who does not know the 
 difference between a frog and a pig. 
 
 We reached Madison, Saturday evening, and spent 
 a quiet Sabbath with the loved ones there. Madison 
 is the old home of Mrs. W., and of course, is very 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 431 
 
 dear to her. It is surrounded by a beautiful and 
 fertile country, and is attracting the attention of the 
 irrepressible Yankee, many of whom have purchased 
 extensive tracts of land, and are making capital farmers 
 and good citizens. Would that these thrifty people 
 were scattered from the sea-board to the mountain 
 top. The country would not then be as it now is, 
 threatened with famine. So long as our planters have 
 cotton on the brain, and raise it to the exclusion of 
 food, we may expect to look abroad for nearly every- 
 thing we eat, drink and wear. 
 
 I brought with me, from Charleston, a large pair of 
 mules, to use in the mountains. Their size and con- 
 dition attracted the attention of a farmer on the road 
 side, and he said, " Mister, where did that stock come 
 from?" I replied, "they are Piatt's dray colts from 
 Charleston." "And what do you feed them on?" 
 " Taylor's Carolina Fertilizer." His characteristic 
 comment was, "by jingoes, I must have a few tons 
 for my cotton." There it is again, cotton, cotton — 
 poor mules, no corn, no bacon. 
 
 We spent a night in the pleasant and growing town 
 of Athens. I looked upon old Wall street with more 
 than ordinary interest, as thirty years ago I was a 
 merchant in embryo of Athens. In Wall street 
 however, we did not deal in fancy stocks, but drove 
 an honest trade in exchanging sugar and molasses, 
 for eggs, chickens and butter ! What toils and strug- 
 gles some of us have undergone since that day, and 
 what a blessing it is that we are .permitted to take 
 only a retrospective view of life. If I had been per- 
 
432 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 mitted thirty years ago to know what was necessary 
 to secure even moderate success, or could have had 
 the'- labors, trials and cares of those thirty years 
 heaped up before me, I am quite sure I should not 
 have ventured over that rugged commercial mountain, 
 but would have returned to my quiet Nacoochee 
 home and been content with the occupation of an 
 honest farmer. 
 
 Life is but a struggle at best ; but when we reach 
 our journey's end, whether that journey has been 
 rough or smooth, if we can look back on a life well 
 spent, it matters not whether we count our wealth by 
 the millions or hundreds. We bring but little into 
 this world, and carry less with us when we leave it. 
 After all, the man who is diligent, whatever his voca- 
 tion may be, is far happier than he who spends his 
 time in ease and indolence. " Six days shalt thou 
 labor," is one of the immutable laws of the Great 
 Teacher, and he who attempts to evade it pays the 
 penalty. If you desire wealth, or the comforts of 
 life, begin to save when you are young. If your in- 
 come is ever so small, strive to lay up a little every 
 year. By this course you will secure an indepen- 
 dence and a comfortable home. 
 
 When I resided in Athens, the town boasted of 
 only a few retail stores ; now they have large blocks 
 of substantial brick buildings that would do credit to 
 Charleston or Savannah. 
 
 Mrs. W.'s assistant housekeeper was buying a few 
 articles for our mountain home, assisted by our 
 Charleston cook, who had been accustomed to stoves 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 433 
 
 and Philadelphia coal. He said, " Miss Mattie, please 
 mam, git a shovel to put coal on de stove !" When 
 Sempy arrived in the valley, he was nonplussed to 
 find that we had neither stove, kitchen nor coal. My 
 energetic nephew had a kitchen put up in about a 
 day, and Sempy gets his " coal " from the dense for- 
 est which surrounds us. Our mansion is a very 
 modest affair; but as I have gone to work in earnest, 
 there is a reasonable prospect that, one of these days, 
 we shall be comfortable. 
 
 Nature has done her work here with a lavish hand — 
 I now propose to see what art can do. We have 
 already conveyed through pipes the gushing cold 
 stream from Lynch's Mountain, and have a perpetual 
 fountain sounding in our ears day and night. The 
 stream of water can be carried through the house, 
 and although brought a considerable distance, is as 
 cold as it is comfortable to drink. 
 
 The butter, when taken from the spring house, is as 
 firm as if packed on ice. 
 
 In my next I propose to tell you of three remarka- 
 ble events, happening almost simultaneously in " Na- 
 coochee and its surroundings," viz : The arrival of a 
 circus, a live Bishop, and last though not least, the 
 fall of a water spout. 
 
 Ever yours, 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Nacoochee Valley, June, 1870. 
 
 55 
 
LETTER FIVE 
 
 Nearly half a century ago my father, Major Ed- 
 ward Williams, visited upper Georgia, in search of 
 rich lands, good water, pure air and fine mountain 
 scenery. All these he found in this valley, which 
 was carved by an inland sea out of the wildest moun- 
 tain scene. 
 
 At that early day few whites had ventured into 
 these dense forests of Indian hunting grounds. Na- 
 coochee Valley was at that period pretty much in its 
 primitive state ; cane-brakes, rhododendrons, azalias 
 and kalmias grew in their native luxuriance. 
 
 The red man was monarch of these fertile valleys 
 and lofty mountains. 
 
 Nacoochee was the chief town of the Cherokee na- 
 tion, and at one time it was the centre of ancient 
 civilization ; here the Cherokees or some other war- 
 like race had surrounded themselves with strong 
 walls and long lines of fortifications extending through 
 the valley to the natural fortifications, the mountains ; 
 with here and there huge mounds thrown up and the 
 tops of high hills levelled to strengthen their military 
 defences, the earth being so arranged as to make the 
 approach of the foe who dared enter their territory 
 both dangerous and difficult. It required only a 
 small force of brave warriors to defend their beautiful 
 homes against an attack of the enemy. When or by 
 
NacoocJiee mid its Surroundings. 435 
 
 whom these mounds, terraces, and military works 
 were constructed, has been, and perhaps will ever re- 
 main, a mystery. 
 
 It is very certain that this region was settled by a 
 race in civilization far in advance of the Cherokees, as 
 they were unable to give any account, even by tradi- 
 tion, of the numerous fortifications and tumuli which 
 were found here. 
 
 The strongest fortifications lie between the Chatta- 
 hoochee and Sautee, in the eastern portion of the val- 
 ley, not far from the point where Sautee enters the 
 Chattahoochee. 
 
 As a means of defence, the situation was well 
 chosen. The adjacent heights are naturally so formed 
 and disposed, as, with but little expense of military 
 architecture, to be rendered almost impregnable. 
 Many Indian relics have been found here. In 1834, 
 the miners, while searching for gold, disinterred a 
 subterranean village, numbering some forty houses, 
 which had been buried, judging from the forest trees 
 which covered the city of the dead, a century or 
 more. 
 
 The logs were hewn and notched as at the present 
 day ; warlike instruments were found in the buildings. 
 
 A discovery was recently made in Nacoochee Val- 
 ley, on the farm of Captain Nichols, that interested 
 me very much, and which must interest every lover 
 of antiquity. A ploughshare struck a hard substance 
 near the base of an Indian mound ; the ploughman, 
 while attempting to remove it, ascertained that it 
 formed a portion of a regularly walled sepulchre, the 
 
436 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 bottom being paved with stones. The tomb con- 
 tained many skeletons ; in one of the recesses was 
 found that of a giant, or of a man much larger than 
 the present race of Indians. 
 
 In the sepulchre were also immense conch shells, 
 pipes, tomahawks, and many curious pieces of work- 
 manship ; but the most remarkable relic was a piece 
 of inwrought copper. 
 
 As the natives were ignorant of the art of working 
 in copper, the question naturally arises at what period 
 these huge men, skilled in art, lived. The tomb itself 
 showed that the builders understood the use of tools. 
 
 I am now tunnelling the mound near my residence, 
 on which the beautiful Indian girl, " Nacoochee," and 
 her lover, Sautee, were buried. The mound is situated 
 on the Sautee, near its junction with the Chattahoo- 
 chee. 
 
 In the grave was found a pipe of peace, with stems 
 to enable seven chiefs, after they had ended their 
 butcheries, to assemble around the council chamber 
 and smoke out of the same bowl. Would that our 
 Christian chiefs had occupied a portion of their 
 time in smoking the pipe of peace, instead of deso- 
 lating our country in a horrid civil war. 
 
 A solitary pine marks the grave of the Queen of 
 the Valley, and her lover, Sautee, the gallant Choctaw 
 Chief. A substantial observatory ornaments the tragi- 
 cal tomb. From it you have a fine view of the Valley 
 of Nacoochee and Sautee, proud old Yonah, the Blue 
 Ridge and Trail Mountains, the latter being the king 
 of the Allep;hanies. 
 
Nacoochce and its Surroundings. 437 
 
 At many points in the valley are monuments de- 
 noting the power and industry of the ancient inhabi- 
 tants of this country and the work of a nation whose 
 period long preceded that of the discovery of the 
 Continent of America by Columbus. 
 
 As you approach Nacoochee from Clarksville, you 
 have a splendid landscape view, infinitely varied and 
 almost without bound, thought by some who have 
 seen much of the old and new world to be unsur- 
 passed, both for its beauty, softness and sublimity. 
 
 Before you nestles in quiet repose Nacoochee, the 
 " Child of the Chattahoochee." For nearly five miles 
 over a rich level plain, bordered by the finest forests 
 in America, you see, without an intervening object to 
 obstruct the view, broad, luxuriant fields of Indian 
 corn and sweet meadows. Beyond is the long range 
 of the Alleghany Mountains, towering one above 
 another until their dizzy peaks are hid in the skies. 
 To the left is proud Yonah, and to the right Lynch's 
 Mountain. Those sparkling waters that you see dash- 
 ing down the sides of the Blue Ridge, are the Falls 
 of Minnie Haha. (Laughing water.) 
 
 The valleys of Nacoochee and Sautee bear strong 
 evidences of having been for ages one vast lake, shut 
 in by the mountains and high hills. 
 
 Just below the junction of the Sautee with the 
 Chattahoochee, the waters broke through the hills, 
 draining this great lake, whose fretful waters had 
 carved out of these mountains the lovely valleys of 
 Nacoochee and Sautee. The lake must have been in 
 length, running from East to West, some ten miles ; 
 and in width, including the valley of Sautee, seven 
 
438 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 miles. It was irregular, as a portion of it was shut 
 in by precipitous mountains to a few yards in width- 
 
 At inconsiderable cost, Lake Nacoochee can be re- 
 produced by throwing a dam across the Chattahoo- 
 chee, where the waters of the lake first broke through 
 the hills. It is believed by irrigating the valley it 
 can be made as rich as the banks of the Nile. The 
 proprietors of Nacoochee contemplate making the 
 experiment. It will, at least, prevent the lands from 
 washing by freshets, and cover the meadows with a 
 sediment from the rich coves of the surrounding hills. 
 
 Nature has done much, very much for Northeastern 
 Georgia, but what shall I say of the poor laboring 
 classes in these mountain regions ? 
 
 It is to be regretted that they are, generally, sadly 
 deficient in energy, enterprise, skill and activity. 
 Many of them live in miserable huts, filled with 
 ragged, half-fed children, without the means of edu- 
 cation. 
 
 I am now speaking of the poorer classes, who live 
 on rented lands. Of course, there are to be found 
 here men and women of intelligence, of energy and 
 refinement. Much, very much, can be done for the 
 bone and sinew of the country ; they are not afraid 
 to work, if they only knew how to go about it. We 
 already have nearly a hundred men, boys and girls 
 employed ; and I say to those who are willing to 
 work, that we will give them employment ; but I have 
 not room for a drone in my Nacoochee hive. 
 
 A few days since I was engaged in trimming trees 
 by the road side. My appearance did not indicate 
 that of a city gentleman of " elegant leisure." 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroiindings. 439 
 
 Some stock drovers were passing through the 
 valley. One of them enquired of me if " Mr. 
 George Williams lived in that house on the hill." 
 And also wanted to know if I was acquainted with 
 him. 
 
 On hearing that I was in " Mr. W's. employ," he 
 wanted to know what wages I received. I informed 
 him that I had lived with Mr. Williams from my 
 earliest recollection, and further, that he worked me 
 very hard, and only gave me my food and clothes. The 
 man cast upon me a look of pity, and said in an 
 indignant manner, " George Williams works you hard, 
 and only gives you your board and clothes ? A 
 stingy old wretch ; I wouldn't live with him another 
 day ! " Cracking his whip, he screamed at his cattle 
 louder than ever, leaving me to reflect upon my sad 
 fate in having such a hard master. I came to the 
 conclusion, as my pay was so small and my term of 
 service was for life, I would not in the future work so 
 hard. 
 
 I do not know when I have been more occupied 
 than during the present summer, while superintending 
 the untutored labor I find here. 
 
 But hard as I have worked from my youth up, yet, 
 I have been far happier than if I had spent a life of 
 ease and indolence. 
 
 Solomon, the wise man, says : " Whatsoever thy 
 hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might." 
 
 I am glad to say that among all the laborers, I have 
 not seen a man under the influence of liquor. This 
 speaks well for these honest-hearted people. 
 
44-0 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 Wages are low here and living high. Men get 
 seventy-five cents per day ; women, fifty cents ; boys 
 and girls, twenty-five cents, and board themselves. 
 They come into Nacoochee from ten to twenty miles 
 around seeking employment. Miss J., of Charleston, 
 will be here in a few days to open the " Nacoochee 
 Seminary." Free schools must be established for the 
 poor children. We greatly need railroad facilities 
 and manufactories. There is not a cotton factory 
 from Athens to the Blue Ridge. These when built 
 will put new life and energy into the " Rip Van 
 Winkles." 
 
 One mail a week, won't do for a civilized people. I 
 have no doubt in a few years we shall hear the whistle 
 of the steam horse near my mountain home. The 
 Air Line from Atlanta will soon reach Gainesville, 
 thirty miles distant. 
 
 Since Nacoochee .was a little innocent girl play- 
 ing in the infant waters of the Chattahoochee, not 
 a Bishop had visited this portion of Georgia. No 
 wonder, then, that this quiet people was startled when 
 it was announced, almost simultaneously, that there 
 was to be exhibited in this region, a circus and a live 
 Bishop. A few of the oldest inhabitants had seen in 
 Nacoochee a circus, but none had looked upon a 
 Methodist Bishop. 
 
 I did intend giving an account of their arrival and 
 mishaps ; but I fear I have already tried your patience 
 and that of your readers. 
 
 For weeks little else was talked of, or dreamed of, 
 but the Bishop and circus. 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 441 
 
 A little girl said to her mother, " Mammy what is a 
 Bishop?" "A big man, my child, a big man," was 
 the mother's reply. " Mammy, is he as big as a 
 meeting house?" 
 
 Johnny Smith wanted to know of his papa what a 
 circus was, Mr. Smith piously informed his son that 
 it was the " devil on horseback, wolves in petticoats." 
 
 Johnny preferred seeing the " big man." 
 
 More anon, G. W. W. 
 
 Nacoochee Valley, August, 1870. 
 
 LETTE'R SIX 
 
 One of the greatest works of Nature in sight of 
 Nacoochee is Tray, or Trail Mountain. This moun- 
 tain is peculiarly interesting to me, as it was in its 
 deep forests that my father, at the advanced age of 
 three score and ten, established a cheese dairy. This 
 mountain and dairy is so cleverly described by Charles 
 Lanman, Esq., in one of his " Letters from the Alle- 
 ghany's," that I append it. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Nacoochee, September, 1870. 
 
 Trail Mountain, Georgia, May, 1848. 
 I now write from near the summit of the highest 
 mountain in Georgia. I obtained my first view of 
 this peak while in the village of Clarksville, and it 
 5G 
 
44 2 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 presented such a commanding appearance, that I re- 
 solved to surmount it, on my way to the North, 
 although my experience has proven that climbing 
 high mountains is always more laborious than profit- 
 able. I came here on the back of a mule, and my 
 guide and companion on the occasion was the princi- 
 pal proprietor of Nacoochee Valley, Major Edward 
 Williams. While ascending the mountain, which 
 occupied about seven hours, (from his residence,) the 
 venerable gentleman expatiated at considerable length 
 on the superb scenery to be witnessed from its sum- 
 mit, and then informed me that he had just established 
 a dairy on the mountain, which, it was easy to see, 
 had become his hobby. He described the " ranges " 
 of the mountains as affording an abundance of the 
 sweetest food for cattle, and said that he had already 
 sent to his dairy somewhere between fifty and eighty 
 cows, and was intending soon to increase the number 
 to one hundred. He told me that his dairyman was 
 an excellent young man from Vermont, named Joseph 
 E. Hubbard, to whom he was indebted for the original 
 idea of establishing the dairy. While journeying 
 through this region, the young man chanced to stop 
 at the Major's house, and though they were perfect 
 strangers, they conversed upon matters connected 
 with farming, and soon became acquainted ; and the 
 stranger having made known the fact that he knew 
 how to make butter and cheese, a bargain was struck, 
 which has resulted in the establishment already men- 
 tioned. The Williams dairy is said to be the only 
 one in the entire State of Georgia, and it is worthy of 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 443 
 
 remark, in this connection, that Major Williams (as 
 well as his dairyman) is a native of New England. 
 He has been an exile from Yankee land for upwards 
 of fifty years, and, though nearly seventy years of 
 age, it appears that his natural spirit of enterprise re- 
 mains in full vigor. 
 
 Trail Mountain was so named by the Cherokees, 
 from the fact that they once had a number of trails 
 leading to the summit, to which point they were in 
 the habit of ascending for the purpose of discovering 
 the camp-fires of their enemies during the existence 
 of hostilities. It is the king of the Blue Ridge, and 
 reported to be five thousand feet above the waters of 
 the surrounding country, and perhaps six thousand 
 feet above the level of the ocean. A carpet of green 
 grass and weeds extends to the very top, and as the 
 trees are small, as well as " few and far between," the 
 lover of extensive scenery has a fine opportunity of 
 gratifying his taste. I witnessed a sunset from this 
 great watch-tower of the South, and I know not that 
 I was ever before more deeply impressed with the 
 grandeur of a landscape scene. The horizon formed 
 an unbroken circle, but I could distinctly see that in 
 one direction alone (across South Carolina and part 
 of Georgia) extended a comparatively level country, 
 while the remaining three-quarters of the space 
 around me appeared to be a wilderness of mountains. 
 The grandest display was towards the north, and here 
 it seemed to me that I could count at least twenty 
 distinct ranges, fading away to the sky, until the 
 more remote range melted into a monotonous line. 
 
444 Nacooclice and its Surroundings. 
 
 No cities or towns came within the limit of my vision; 
 no, nor even an occasional wreath of smoke, to re- 
 mind me that human hearts were beating in the un- 
 numbered valleys. A crimson hue covered the sky, 
 but it was without a cloud to cheer the prospect, and 
 the solemn shadow which rested upon the mountains 
 was too deep to partake of a single hue from the 
 departing sun. Grandeur and gloom, like twin spirits, 
 seemed to have subdued the world, causing the pulse 
 of nature to cease its accustomed throb. " At one 
 stride came the dark," and, as there was no moon, 
 I retreated from the peak with pleasure, and sought 
 the rude cabin, where I was to spend the night. 
 While doing this, the distant howl of a wolf came to 
 my ear, borne upward on the quiet air from one of 
 the deep ravines leading to the base of the mountain. 
 
 As I was the guest of my friends, Williams and 
 Hubbard, I wiled away the evening in their society, 
 asking and answering a thousand questions. Among 
 the matters touched upon in our conversation, was a 
 certain mysterious " water-spout," of which I had 
 heard a great deal among the people in my journey- 
 ing, and which was said to have fallen upon Trail 
 Mountain. I again inquired into the particulars, and 
 Major Williams replied as follows : 
 
 " This water-spout story has always been a great 
 mystery to me. The circumstance occurred several 
 years ago. A number of hunters were spending the 
 night in the very ravine where this shanty now 
 stands, when, about midnight, they heard a tre- 
 mendous roaring in the air, and a large torrent of 
 
NacoocJicc and its Surroundings. 445 
 
 water fell upon their camp, and swept it, with all its 
 effects and inmates, about a dozen yards from the 
 spot where they had planted their poles. One of 
 them was severely injured on the head by the water, 
 and all of them completely drenched. They were, of 
 course, much alarmed at the event, and concluded 
 that a spring farther up the mountain had probably 
 broken away ; but when morning came, they could 
 find no evidences of a spring, and everywhere above 
 their camping-place the ground was perfectly dry, 
 while on the lower side it was completely saturated. 
 They were now perplexed to a marvellous degree, 
 and returned to the lower country impressed with 
 the idea that a waterspout had burst over their 
 heads." 
 
 But to return to the dairy, which is unquestionably 
 the chief attraction (though far from being a romantic 
 one) connected with Trail Mountain. Heretofore, a 
 cheese establishment has been associated in my mind 
 with broad meadow lands, spacious and well-furnished 
 out-houses, and a convenient market. But here we 
 have a dairy on the top of a mountain, distant from 
 the first farm-house some seven miles, and inacces- 
 sible by any conveyance but that of a mule or well- 
 trained horse. The bells of more than half a hundred 
 cows are echoing along the mountain side ; and, 
 instead of clover, they are feeding upon the luxuriant 
 weed of the wilderness ; instead of cool cellars, we 
 have here a hundred tin pans arranged upon tables 
 in a log cabin, into which a cool spring pours its re- 
 freshing treasure ; instead of a tidy and matronly 
 
446 Nacoochee and its Sttrronndings. 
 
 housewife to superintend the turning of the curd, we 
 have an enterprising young Yankee, a veritable Green 
 Mountain boy ; and instead of pretty milkmaids, the 
 inferiors of this establishment are huge negroes, and 
 all of the masculine gender. And this is the estab- 
 lishment which supplies the people of Georgia with 
 cheese, and the material out of which the scientific 
 caterer manufactures the palatable Welsh Rabbit. 
 
 LETTER SEVEN 
 
 TALLULAH AND TOCCOA FALLS. 
 
 One of the grandest sights of Nacoochee and its 
 surroundings, is the Falls of Tallulah. 
 
 It was a bright morning in September, when a 
 party of us left Nacoochee in search of this nature's 
 wonder. A few hours drive through hill and dale, 
 over rough roads and dangerous bridges, and we 
 arrive safely in hearing of this mountain cataract. 
 We alight, and partake heartily of a lunch. Having 
 gone through with this pleasant part of the duties of 
 the day, we procure a guide, and are off to gaze upon 
 Tallulah ! Thirty long years have come and gone 
 since I first looked upon this world's wonder. 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 447 
 
 Since that day I have visited the most noted catar- 
 acts in Europe, and heard the thundering waters of 
 Niagara ! 
 
 In mildness and majestic beauty of scenery, the 
 Falls of Tallulah, and its surroundings, surpass any- 
 thing of the kind that I have seen in the Old or 
 New World. 
 
 The volume of water at Niagara Falls, of course, 
 is much greater than that of all others. Terrora, 
 the " Terrible," is a small stream which has been for 
 ages cutting its way through the Blue Ridge. 
 
 Its fretful waters made a chasm in the mountains 
 miles in length, and, in some places, over a thousand 
 feet in depth. 
 
 Here you find gigantic cliffs of granite, its huge 
 masses piled upon each other in the wildest confu- 
 sion. Along the winding, rugged beds of this deep 
 abyss, the swift Terrora rushes, and foams as it lashes 
 its waters in its onward and downward course. Ever 
 and anon it dashes over protruding rocks and steep 
 precipices. And now we stop at the Pulpit, a huge 
 cliff, which projects over the chasm. Here you have 
 a magnificent view of several of the falls. 
 
 From the Pulpit view, Terrora seems to be gushing 
 from the centre of the mountain. The water leaps 
 into an immense basin at the foot of the precipice, 
 where it circles round and round in a whirpool. 
 
 This place is called Hawthorn's Pool, in memory 
 of the lamented Presbyterian minister, who lost his 
 life in attempting to bathe in those turbulent waters. 
 
 A rugged stairway is cut out of the side of the 
 
448 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 cliff, which leads down to the edge of the falls. Now 
 you are encircled by towering stone walls on every 
 side. 
 
 I do not know which is the most to be admired, the 
 view from this position, or where you stand fifteen 
 hundred feet above and look down upon the scene. 
 There are five perpendicular falls of water, from fifty 
 to one hundred feet, and quite a number of smaller 
 cataracts. The flow of waters, with their perpetual 
 roar and wildness of scenery, render Tallulah an 
 enchanting spot. The surroundings are varied and 
 picturesque, now beautiful, now grand — Nature is 
 triumphant. These enchanting scenes have always 
 inspired the poet and the artist. 
 
 I will close this sketch of Tallulah, by inserting a 
 portion of a beautiful poem, by Georgia's distin- 
 guished poet, Henry R. Jackson : 
 
 TALLULAH. 
 
 But hark ! beneath yon hoary precipice, 
 
 The rush of mightier waters as they pour 
 In foaming torrents through the dark abyss 
 
 Which echoes back the thunders of their roar. 
 
 Approach the frightful gorge ! and gazing o'er, 
 What mad emotions through their bosoms thrill \ 
 
 Hast ever seen so dread a sight before ? 
 Tallulah ! by that name we hail thee still, 
 And own that thou art rightly called the Terrible ! 
 
 In vain o'er thee shall glow with wild delight, 
 
 The painter's eye, and voiceless still shall be 
 The poet's tongue, who from this giddy height, 
 
 Shall kindle in thine awful minstrelsy ! 
 
Nacooclice and its Surroundings. 449 
 
 Thou art too mighty in thy grandeur — we 
 Too weak to give fit utterance to the soul ! 
 
 Thy billows mock us with their tempest glee, 
 As thundering on, while countless ages roll, 
 Thou scornest man's applause alike with man's control. 
 
 Yet standing here where mountain eagles soar, 
 
 Among these toppling crags, to plant their nest, 
 I catch an inspiration from thy roar, 
 
 Which will not let my spirit be at rest. 
 
 I cast me down upon the massive breast 
 Of this huge rock, that lifts to meet the blast, 
 
 Far, far above the foam, his granite crest, 
 And eager thoughts come gathering thick and fast, 
 The voices of the future blending with the past ! 
 
 I gaze across the yawning gorge and seem 
 
 Once more to see upon yon heights that rear 
 Their summits up to catch the sunset gleam, 
 
 The red man of the wilderness appear, 
 
 With bounding step, and bosom broad and bare, 
 And painted face and figure lithe and tall, 
 
 Wild as surrounding nature ; and I hear 
 From yonder precipice his hoop and call, 
 That mingle fiercely with the roaring water-fall ! 
 
 But lo ! he pauses, for he sees thee now, 
 
 Dread cataract ! — he stands entranced ! — his yell 
 
 Is hushed ; appalled he looks where far below, 
 
 Thy waters boil with a tumultuous swell. 
 
 Thou glorious orator of Nature ! well 
 May his rude bosom own the majesty 
 
 Of thy dread eloquence; he hears the knell 
 Of human things — he bends the suppliant knee, 
 To the Great Spirit of the Terrible in thee. 
 
 We left Tallulah, feeling that our time was much 
 too short to enjoy, to the fullest extent, the beauties 
 of nature which were so profusely spread around us. 
 
 57 
 
45 o Nacoochee and its Surroundings, 
 
 We could have lingered for days amid those fairy 
 scenes, but the sun was fast dropping behind old 
 Yonah, and we had several miles to ride over rough 
 roads before we could procure lodgings for the night. 
 It was quite dark when we reached a farm house, 
 some six miles from the Falls. Our hostess, Mrs. A., 
 does not keep a hotel, but accommodates travellers 
 to the best of her ability. Angels could do no more. 
 Travellers often make themselves, and all around 
 them, very uncomfortable by fault-finding. In many 
 of the up-country towns, it not unfrequently occurs 
 that the hotel register has not a new name entered 
 for days. This quiet of country hotel life is occa- 
 sionally disturbed by the arrival of a dozen or more 
 hungry persons, at an hour when the chickens and 
 cook have retired for the night. If the table is not 
 spread, in fifteen minutes, with hot biscuits, hot cof- 
 fee, fried chicken, beefsteaks and the like, Mr. Brown 
 will begin a tirade of abuse against country landlords 
 and country hotels. Fortunately, our party was made 
 up of genteel people. Among the boys were Masters 
 Bob, Henry and George ; and the young Misses were 
 represented by Mary, Hattie and Amelia. All these 
 juveniles were under the watchful eye of their ac- 
 complished teacher, Miss J e, of Charleston. Well 
 
 bred people are not given to unnecessary fault- 
 finding. Our party, at least, had no occasion for it, 
 as in due course of time a bountiful supper was pro- 
 vided and ample justice was done it. We found our 
 landlady jovial and good natured. Ready to ask 
 questions as she was to answer. Master George 
 
Nacoochce and its Surroundings. 45 1 
 
 thought every body knew " Pa," and was nonplussed 
 when the old lady told him that " she had never 
 heard of Geo. W. Williams, of Charleston." 
 
 This reminded me of a circumstance which hap- 
 pened at a State Fair, held in Macon, Ga. At that 
 Fair my venerable father was contending for agri- 
 cultural premiums. He had on exhibition some 
 mammoth ears of corn, which attracted a good deal 
 of attention. My father remarked to me that the 
 people about Macon were " very ignorant ;" said he, 
 " They asked me where that huge corn was raised ?" 
 When I told them in Nacoochee Valley, they wanted 
 to know " what State that Valley was in ?" 
 
 The good man was of the opinion that everybody 
 ought to know where Nacoochee Valley was located. 
 It is well for all of us to travel occasionally, in order 
 to learn that our homes, and ourselves, are not of as 
 much importance to the outside world as we had 
 vainly imagined. 
 
 Before closing this letter, I must not omit to state 
 that one of the most lovely sights of Nacoochee and 
 its Surroundings, is the Cascade of Toccoa. This 
 beautiful Fall is on a stream of the same name. In 
 perpendicular height it surpasses anything to be found 
 even at Niagara. Toccoa is within cannon shot of 
 Tallulah. These Falls form beautiful links in the 
 chain of Northeastern Georgia scenery. 
 
 I will close this communication by introducing a 
 poem of my favorite Georgia poet, H. R. J., Esq. 
 
 G. W. W. 
 
 Nacoochee, September, 1870. 
 
452 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 TOCCOA. 
 
 Embosomed in the primal forest shades, 
 
 And singing gayly through the day and night;— 
 Dashing thy waters into myriad braids 
 
 Of diamond spray, that sparkles down the height. 
 
 And changes hue beneath the shifting light; — 
 Laughing away the hours in childlike mirth, 
 
 And gently dallying with the ear and sight — 
 Scarce calls thy murmuring voice an echo forth, 
 Toccoa ! merriest water-fall of all the earth ! 
 
 Toccoa ! or The Beautiful ! this name 
 
 To thee was given by tawny Indian girls, 
 When, with the Summer's sultry noon, they came 
 
 To bathe their bosoms where the water curls 
 
 Around the mossy rocks in countless pearls ; 
 Or when, in Autumn, seeking o'er the hill, 
 
 From which thy eddying current lightly whirls, 
 Brown nuts, their baskets of light reed to fill, 
 
 They loved to pause and gaze upon thy beauties still. 
 
 Thou hadst been holy in the classic land 
 
 Of ancient Hellas ; smiling spirits deemed 
 Of birth celestial, by thy rocky strand 
 
 To whisper with a various voice had seemed 
 
 To him who in the cadence of thy music dreamed ; 
 The steps of poets had been printed on 
 
 Thy sparkling sand, and eager eyes had beamed 
 Above thy waters, while the lay was spun, 
 Which made thee famous for all time like Helicon ! 
 
 Here shall the fevered soul of him who roams 
 
 Among these mountains — who has left behind 
 Cares, troubles, sufferings, ceaseless toil, and comes 
 
 To seek refreshment for the wearied mind — 
 
 In thy soft music, gentle solace find. 
 Youth seems to live in thee ; thy happy mood, 
 
 The fetters of the spirit shall unbind ; 
 Joy, dead for years, again shall be renewed, 
 And Hope rebuild her bark from wrecks at random strewed ! 
 
LETTER EIGHT. 
 
 YONAH MOUNTAIN. 
 
 One of the grandest objects in sight of my old home 
 in Nacoochee Valley, is Yonah Mountain. This 
 stupendous pile of granite seems to be a huge off- 
 shoot of the Blue Ridge. Yonah, is associated with 
 the earliest recollections of my life. 
 
 This guardian of the valley became as familiar to 
 me as the face of my much loved mother. By the 
 time I reached my tenth year, I was in the habit of 
 climbing, during the summer months, to its giddy 
 heights, frequently two and three times a week, and 
 often during the winter months, when Yonah was 
 imbedded in snow, I have chased the fox into its deep 
 caverns. The grand views from the summit of this 
 giant bear, were as well known to me as the scenes by 
 the pathway to our log-cabin school-house. This 
 lofty mountain was ever the admiration of each mem- 
 ber of our household. My father, in building, selected 
 a location which commanded the finest view of this 
 celebrated mountain. 
 
 Perhaps it may be considered a weakness, but I 
 acknowledge that I never return to my Nacoochee 
 home that my heart does not beat and throb the faster 
 whenever I come in sight of Yonah. Let me wander 
 
454 Nacoocliee and its Surroundings. 
 
 where ere I may, when I return to the home of my 
 childhood, this old familiar friend, which can be seen 
 at a great distance, is ever there to greet me. 
 
 I know at its foot nestles, in quiet repose, the " sweet 
 Vale of Nacoochee ;" and in the bosom of this 
 " Tempe of the South," sleep my parents of precious 
 memory. 
 
 In July, 1834, the glorious fourth was celebrated on 
 the summit of Yonah. A liberty pole was raised, and 
 the Stars and Stripes given to the breeze. 
 
 Mr. Ingersoll, Gen. Rusk, and other distinguished 
 statesmen, delivered patriotic speeches on that occa- 
 sion. 
 
 A few years later, some three hundred persons from 
 the valleys below assembled Christmas day, on the 
 highest pinnacle of Yonah, and united with a Methodist 
 divine in celebrating the birth of Christ. It was pro- 
 bably the first sermon on this heavenward-towering 
 temple. 
 
 A multitude of voices united that bright, joyous 
 December day, in singing : 
 
 " GOOD TIDINGS." 
 
 " Good tidings ! Good tidings ! 
 
 Ring out, O Christmas bells ! 
 The old familiar music still 
 
 O'er hill and lowland swells ; 
 Go twine with ivy leaves and bay 
 
 The holly's choral jem, 
 And welcome, Christian hearts, to-day, 
 
 The Babe of Bethlehem. 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 455 
 
 " Good tidings ! Good tidings ! 
 
 It is the self-same strain 
 That once the holy angels sang 
 
 To shepherds on the plain ; 
 A song which brings the weary rest, 
 
 And comforts those that mourn ; 
 The ancient anthem, ever blest — 
 
 ' To us a Child is born.' 
 
 " Good tidings ! Good tidings ! 
 
 The world is old and sad ; 
 We need the blessed Christmas-tide 
 
 To make us young and glad ! 
 To darkened eyes who saw through tears 
 
 Their earth-lights pale and die, 
 This holy radiance appears — 
 
 ' The day-spring from on high ' 
 
 " Good tidings ! Good tidings ! 
 
 O meek and lowly King ! 
 Teach every faithful heart this day 
 
 Thy praise aright to sing ; 
 Teach us to do Thy deeds of love, 
 
 Thy precious seed to sow ; 
 As angels work for Thee above, 
 
 So let us work below. 
 
 " Good tidings ! Good tidings ! 
 
 The music shall not cease ; 
 He came to guide our wayward feet 
 
 Into the way of peace ; 
 Chime, tuneful bells, loudly ring 
 
 To hail the Christmas morn ; 
 Awake all Christian souls, and sing — 
 
 ' To us a child is born.' " 
 
 At the conclusion of these religious exercises, this 
 large party descended the mountain by various Indian 
 
456 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 trails, many separated never to meet again, until sum- 
 moned by the trumpet of God to their last reckoning. 
 
 Quite a party once spent a night on Yonah, to wit- 
 ness a sunrise and a sunset view from this elevated 
 position. A grand sight it was. How scattered is 
 that little band ! Some are, doubtless, basking in the 
 sunlight of a holier and more blissful world, while 
 others are still here, but have, since that day, passed 
 through great trials and tribulations. Some are laying 
 up treasures above, while others are heaping up gold 
 and silver, not a dollar of which will aid in securing 
 their passage to the Celestial City. What a sad feel- 
 ing to know that in a few fleeting years, not one of 
 that once happy party will be numbered among the 
 living. All, all will be realizing the joys or miseries 
 of eternity. 
 
 The following beautiful lines were written on the 
 summit of Yonah, in 1849, by D. H. Jacques, Esq., 
 Editor of The Rural Carolinian : 
 
 Vain were the thought to paint the scene 
 Which, gazing from this height serene, 
 Seems to me like the land of dreams, 
 On which Edenic radiance streams. 
 Thought soars above expression's reach, 
 And feeling scorns the aid of speech ; 
 Too proudly high the mountains rise, 
 Too blue — too glorious are the skies 
 For any tribute verse of mine, — ■ 
 The theme trancends and shames the line. 
 
 I gaze on forests spreading wide 
 The fulness of their verdant tide, 
 
NacoocJice and its Surroundings. 457 
 
 On mountains piled on mountains high, 
 Far up against the glowing sky, — 
 Then down, where, cradled in her deeps, 
 Nachoochee's Vale of Beauty sleeps ! 
 O ! Valley of the Evening Star,* 
 Though I have wandered near and far, 
 No lovelier spot has blessed my eyes, 
 Than now before me smiling lies. 
 Broad are thy fields of waving corn, 
 And sweet thy flowers of summer born; 
 While, border'd by o'erhanging trees, 
 Through blooming haunts of birds and bees, 
 With dulcet warblings soft and low, 
 Thy Chattahoochee's waters flow, 
 And with many a sun-lit wave, 
 Their shores of shining pebbles lave ; 
 And bright the golden sun-light shivers, 
 On this pride of Georgia rivers, 
 And skies as lovely o'er thee bend 
 As o'er Italia's plains extend. 
 Encircled by thy guardian hills, 
 Sure thou art free from common ills. 
 
 ! blessings on thee, valley fair — 
 
 On woods, and rocks, and mountain air \ 
 
 1 feel new vigor in my arm— 
 
 The tides of life flow swift and warm — 
 The radiance of an earlier day, 
 Seems shed again around my way, 
 And fragrance of the primal spring, 
 These highland breezes seem to bring. 
 
 O ! on these rocks all day to lie, 
 And watch alternate earth and sky — 
 To mark the varying light and shade, 
 By nature's ready pencil laid 
 
 * Nacoochee signifies, in the expressive language of the Indian, " The Evening Star.' 
 
 58 
 
45 8 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 On mountain cliff, and forest nook — 
 On meadow green and babbling brook ; 
 And when the twilight's purple haze, 
 Should shut the landscape from my gaze, 
 To watch the stars come, one by one, 
 'Till each its glorious place has won : — 
 Here, on the earth, yet near to heaven, 
 Unto my gaze would then be given, 
 Sights such as man can never know, 
 'Neath human roofs, in vallies low. 
 ****** 
 Here mountain wild-birds sing to me, 
 And little squirrels fast friends be ; 
 Thus nature to her temples wild, 
 Still welcomes me her wandering child. 
 August 17, 184.9. D. H. J. 
 
 When quite a lad, I accompanied the distinguished 
 Carolina statesman, John C. Calhoun, to Yonah. We 
 stood on the precipice, which was nearly a thousand 
 feet in perpendicular height, looked down into 
 the deep yawning abyss, and beyond at the lovely 
 vallies, and upwards at mountains towering one above 
 the other until the loftiest was lost in the blue sky. 
 Mr. Calhoun stood for many minutes silently gazing 
 on these scenes of overwhelming awe, beauty and 
 magnificence. I have visited the White Mountains 
 in New Hampshire, the Black Mountains in North 
 Carolina, and the snow-capped Alps of Switzerland ; 
 for softness and grandeur of beauty the views from 
 Yonah surpass them all. 
 
 The highest mountains North and in Europe, are 
 nearly always obscured by clouds and a hazy atmos- 
 phere, while the views from Yonah are generally clear 
 and bright. 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 459 
 
 On our return to Nacoochee from Yonah, we 
 pass in sight of the old home of the late Rev. Jesse 
 Richardson. His honored son, Rev. John L. Rich- 
 ardson, the proprietor of the celebrated Richardson 
 gold mines, lives to the right in that white house on 
 Duke's Creek. Some two hundred thousand dollars 
 worth of gold has been dug from the mines of Cap- 
 tain Richardson. 
 
 The good man's heart is ever open to charity, he is 
 generous to a fault, and is more concerned about 
 laying up treasure in heaven than upon earth. Since 
 my earliest recollection, John L. Richardson has been 
 one of the pillars of the Nacoochee Methodist Church. 
 The old gentleman is not sectarian, but is a decided 
 Methodist. 
 
 That small cottage at the foot of the Sail's Moun- 
 tain, is the humble school-house, in which, Adeline 
 Moffatt patiently taught the Nacoochee juveniles their 
 a b c's. I had the good fortune of being one of her 
 advanced scholars, and was in a fair way of mastering 
 the " single rule of three" and getting a smattering 
 of grammar, when a trading inspiration came over me, 
 and, in my seventeenth year, I abandoned the school- 
 house for the counting room. From that day to this 
 I have never had the time to resume my studies of 
 grammar and mathematics. Persons who have been 
 blessed with a classical education cannot appreciate 
 too highly their advantages. Those who have not 
 been so favored, keenly feel the difficulties under 
 which they labor. 
 
 College education is but the ground work for future 
 
460 NacoocJice and its Surroundings. 
 
 intellectual attainments. It is too frequently the case 
 with young men to imagine, because they have pass- 
 ed through a course of studies and " graduated," that 
 their education is complete. They may possess a 
 well proportioned store-house, but it requires a life- 
 time of study to fill it with useful knowledge. I am 
 wandering from Miss Moffatt's little school-house into 
 colleges. 
 
 I should like, exceedingly, to see the hills and 
 vallies of upper Georgia, dotted with school-houses 
 and filled with bright children under the instruction 
 of competent teachers. 
 
 But enough, G. W. W. 
 
 Nacoochee, 1870. 
 
 LETTER NINE 
 
 AN EXCURSION THROUGH THE VALLEY TO THE HEAD 
 WATERS OF THE CHATTAHOOCHEE. 
 
 It was a bright morning in August, and but for the 
 refreshing mountain breezes, the sun would have been 
 uncomfortably hot. I desired to show some friends 
 the combined beauties of Nature and Art in these 
 
 Georgia wilds. 
 
 We enter the Unicoy Turn Pike a few hundred 
 yards from my mountain home. That house, which 
 stands so conspicuously on the high hill to the right 
 
NacoocJice and its Surroundings. 461 
 
 as you go up the valley, is the situation selected by 
 General Rusk, who lived there for many years, having 
 married a daughter of Benjamin Cleveland, one of the 
 earliest settlers of this region. The valley and moun- 
 tain views from " Rusk Hill " are thought to be the 
 finest in Nacoochee. 
 
 For reasons satisfactory to himself, General Rusk 
 left his home in the small hours of the night, and 
 some years later turned up in Texas. 
 
 He was just the man to represent that people in the 
 United States Senate. 
 
 The sheet of water to the right is Lake Nantahala 
 (pretty maid). A drive of half a mile, and we reach 
 Sautee Creek. The ricketty bridge has been replaced 
 by a substantial new one, which is nicely painted. 
 
 Here we find a grist mill, saw mill, tannery, and 
 blacksmith shop, all in full blast. The old Confede- 
 rate gun factory has been converted into a workshop. 
 
 It was in this building Colonel E. P. Williams 
 turned out " pikes " by the thousand for Governor 
 Brown's Georgia Militia. I could not learn of these 
 warlike missiles having done much damage, other 
 than giving me a fright when the Federal soldiers 
 took possession of Charleston. 
 
 My brother thought the Carolina boys, who were 
 pledged to " die in the ditch," ought to be furnished 
 with Nacoochee pikes. 
 
 He made quite a shipment to Charleston. Failing 
 to sell them, they were stored at No. 1 Hayne street, 
 and were found there by a Federal officer when the 
 city fell. I had to give the best excuse I could for 
 
462 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 the appearance of such warlike destructibles in a 
 grocery establishment. The officer sent the pikes 
 North, as a barbarous relic of the lost cause. I am 
 quite sure there will be no more pikes manufactured 
 in Nacoochee. 
 
 The Observatory, that you see on the pretty 
 mound, is built over the graves of the Indian maid, 
 Nacoochee, and her lover, Sautee. 
 
 A drive of half a mile, and we are in full view of 
 the beautiful Valley of Sautee and Lynch's Mountain. 
 Those neat farmhouses that you see, are occupied 
 by Mrs. A. G. Williams, Lucius Lamar Trotter, and 
 others. That house on the hill, as you proceed up 
 the valley, is the residence of my brother, Edwin P. 
 Williams ; here you have a splendid view of the Val- 
 leys of Nacoochee and Sautee, and of Yonah and 
 Tray Mountains. Mr. W. owns a large body of val- 
 uable grain and meadow lands. 
 
 He suffered terribly by the war, having lost, by 
 emancipation, nearly one hundred negroes, and a 
 large amount of valuable stock. But his greatest loss 
 was that of a noble son in Virginia. The cottages, 
 on the opposite side of the Chattahoochee, are the 
 homes of Edward and James Williams, sons of Charles 
 L. Williams. 
 
 Three-fourths of a mile, and we pass the pretty 
 new home of Mr. Joseph Green, son-in-law of C. L. 
 Williams. 
 
 Near by, in a beautiful grove, is the neat Methodist 
 Church, which would be greatly improved by a coat 
 of fresh paint ; and there, too, is the Nacoochee Semi- 
 
Nacoochce and its Surroundings. 463 
 
 nary, filled with the little, bright-eyed mountain girls 
 and boys, under the careful training of Miss John- 
 stone, of Charleston. 
 
 Almost in sight of the church is the family man- 
 sion of my father, the late Major Williams. It is now 
 the home of Dr. E. F. Starr, who married my young- 
 est sister. There are little Stars enough there to il- 
 luminate the valley. 
 
 From this point, old Yonah presents a grand ap- 
 pearance. One-fourth of a mile, and we arrive at Na- 
 coochee proper, the home of my eldest brother, 
 Charles L. Williams. 
 
 Mr. W. has been merchandising in the Valley 
 nearly half a century, having begun trade at the early 
 age of twelve. 
 
 Since the discovery of gold here, in 1828, my 
 brother has bought more of that precious metal than 
 would load a wagon ! 
 
 Not far from the mound that you see in the field, 
 are the flour and grist mill, and wool factory of James 
 Glenn, Esq. 
 
 A drive of less than a mile from C. L. W.'s, and we 
 arrive at Captain James Nichols'. This was once the 
 home of my grandfather, Brown, and is said to be one 
 of the best farms in the Valley. Captain Nichols is 
 making many handsome improvements ; he is a val- 
 uable accession to Nacoochee society. In sight of 
 Captain N.'s, we cross the Chattahoochee, and now, 
 for nearly a mile, the Valley is shut in by the moun- 
 tains, leaving a narrow passage for the river and road. 
 The scene in this mountain gorge is wild and grand. 
 
464 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 The high hills are covered with magnificent spruce 
 and white pines. The rhododendrons and kalmias 
 line each side of the Chattahoochee. 
 
 Again the Valley widens, and we are in sight of 
 H. H. Conley's. Here lives my honored aunt, who, 
 notwithstanding she has seen her three score years 
 and ten, yet she is as active and bright as many of 
 the girls of the present day. The avenue of pines 
 leading to the house is the finest in America. 
 
 This portion of the Valley is settled by the Con- 
 leys, Deans, Pitners, and Capps. 
 
 We now follow the windings of the Chattahoochee 
 for six miles, to its source, through the wildest of the 
 wilds of Georgia. 
 
 A wagon road has been hewn out of the sides of 
 the mountains, which drop down almost perpendicu- 
 larly on each side of the Chattahoochee. We pass 
 through groves of stately forest trees, such as I have 
 not seen in any other country. 
 
 The rhododendrons, flaming azalias, and kalmias 
 abound, and illuminate the mountain sides. As we 
 ascended the mountain, the sparkling waters of the 
 Chattahoochee came rushing and foaming over the 
 rocky precipices, forming beautiful cataracts and 
 cascades. 
 
 We are on the summit of the Blue Ridge, which is 
 the great natural barrier between the Eastern and 
 Western waters. 
 
 The views from these heights are grand and lovely. 
 To the north and west, mountains lay heaped one 
 above another, until their blue summits are lost in the 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 465 
 
 distance. Amid all this world of mountains, old 
 Yonah maintains its isolated grandeur and dignity. 
 It has charms for me that no other mountain possesses. 
 
 We now rest, and partake of a lunch under the 
 shade of an immense oak, and drink from a cool, 
 sparkling spring, the head waters of the Chatta- 
 hoochee. A few hundred yards from us is a small 
 rivulet, which flows west, and is one of the tributaries 
 of the great Mississippi. 
 
 When I was a lad, my good father was extensively 
 engaged in stock-raising. In the spring, as soon as 
 the glittering snow disappeared from the highest 
 peaks of the Alleghanies, he would send us boys 
 with large " droves " of horses, mules, and cattle to 
 the luxuriant mountain ranges which abound here. 
 Many a sleepless night have I passed in the deep, 
 dark caves of the Blue Ridge, in consequence of the 
 proximity to our camp of the Indian hunters, and 
 often that of a more dangerous enemy, the fierce 
 panthers, or troublesome wolves and bears. The 
 panthers or wolves seldom attack you unless they 
 are very hungry. Their keen sense of smell will de- 
 tect fresh meat at a great distance. 
 
 One of our party had killed a fine buck, a portion 
 of which was hung up in our tent; this attracted a 
 couple of ferocious panthers and a number of wolves. 
 
 The panthers stealthily made their approach by 
 springing upon the trees some distance from us, they 
 would then leap as far as possible in the direction of 
 our camp, coming nearer and nearer until we could 
 see their fiery eyes. 
 59 
 
466 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 The distant howl of the wolf, gave place to a near 
 and quick shrill cry, this meant action. Our fierce 
 dogs, which we had relied upon, crouched at our feet, 
 and were, if possible, more frightened than their mas- 
 ters, We reserved our rifles as a last resort; our 
 situation was now critical in the extreme, as we could 
 not tell what moment the hungry creatures would 
 pounce upon us. 
 
 In this dilemma, my uncle (Maj. Brown,) threw a 
 stick of burning wood at them, which fortunately set 
 the dry leaves and woods on fire, and, to our great 
 relief, frightened away the horrid creatures. 
 
 There are at this time but few panthers in the 
 mountains, these are to be found in the dense forest, 
 not much frequented by man. 
 
 The wolves and bears are more numerous, and 
 occasionally, when the mountains are covered with 
 snow, venture into Nacoochee valley in search of food. 
 The Indians' footprints are now seldom seen in their 
 old and cherished hunting grounds. 
 
 The white man has taken from them their homes, 
 desecrated their graves, and have driven them to the 
 far West. 
 
 I saw some ten thousand of these poor creatures 
 who had been hunted down by the United States 
 troops, and confined in pens and prisons preparatory 
 to their departure for their new homes west of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 It was a sad sight to see these people driven from 
 the sepulchres of their ancestors, and the temples of 
 their gods, which they clung to with superstitious 
 reverence. 
 
Nacoochce audits Surroundings. 467 
 
 No wonder the natives did not become Christians 
 under the teachings of their merciless oppressors. 
 They were treated with the most unchristian-like 
 barbarity. 
 
 The Indians were driven almost to desperation. It 
 is not strange they should avenge their wrongs 
 before their departure from Georgia. A worthy 
 citizen of the valley was shot by them while riding 
 quietly along the road over which we travelled to-day. 
 At one time it was feared there would be a general 
 uprising among the Cherokees, and bloody work was 
 predicted. 
 
 A party of men and boys took advantage of the 
 excitement, to run several bad white men from Nacoo- 
 chee. Although quite young, I was eager for this 
 adventure. The expedition was to start from a given 
 point in the valley. 
 
 We took the precaution to inform my father and the 
 family of our intentions. 
 
 Having dressed in the regular Indian costume, we 
 started on a very perilous undertaking. We raised 
 the war-whoop, and succeeded in running a number 
 of families from their homes, but we narrowly escaped 
 being shot by a party of whites who were well 
 armed. 
 
 Returning, a little after midnight, we had the curi- 
 osity to ascertain how the negroes would act in the 
 event of an outbreak among the Indians. 
 
 We entered the cabins and in a short time there 
 was a general stampede. Several of the negro men 
 ran to my father's residence screaming at the top of 
 
468 Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 
 
 their voices, that the Indians were murdering them. 
 They rushed into the house, not stopping for bolts or 
 locks. 
 
 My sisters believed us to be true, true Indians, and 
 one of them leaped from a window which was a 
 considerable height from the ground, and came near 
 breaking her neck. The women ran to the smoke- 
 house, and offered us an abundance of meat and 
 bread. 
 
 It required some time to convince the family that 
 we were not Indians. 
 
 Some of the negroes made their escape and spread 
 the news far and wide, that Major Williams and family 
 were murdered. What was intended by us as a 
 night's innocent amusement turned out to be a very 
 serious affair. 
 
 From that day to this I have had no inclination 
 to participate in a mimic Indian war. 
 
 I now propose to close " Nacoochee and its Sur- 
 roundings," by inserting a beautiful poem by Henry 
 R. Jackson, Esq.: 
 
 THE VALE OF NACOOCHEE. 
 
 Where Yonah lifts his bald and reverend head 
 
 The humbler Alleghany peaks above, 
 Beneath its shadows pleasantly is spread 
 
 Nacoochee's vale — sweet as a dream of love. 
 
 Cradle of Peace! mild, gentle as the dove 
 Whose tender accents from yon woodlands swell, 
 
 Must she have been who thus has interwove 
 Her name with thee, and thy soft holy spell, 
 And all of peace which on this troubled globe may dwell ! 
 
Nacoochee and its Surroundings. 469 
 
 Nacoochee — in tradition, thy sweet queen — 
 
 Has vanished with her maidens : not again 
 Along thy meadows shall their forms be seen ; 
 
 The mountain echoes catch no more the strain 
 
 Of their wild Indian lays at evening's wane; 
 No more, where rustling branches intertwine, 
 
 They pluck the jesmine flowers, or break the cane 
 Beside the marshy stream, or from the vine 
 Shake down, in purple showers, the luscious muscadine. 
 
 Yet round thee hangs the same sweet spirit still ! 
 
 Thou art among these hills a sacred spot, 
 As if shut out from all the clouds of ill 
 
 That gloom so darkly o'er the human lot. 
 
 On thy green breast the world I quite forgot — 
 Its stern contentions — its dark grief and care — 
 
 And I breathed freer, deeper, and blushed not 
 At old emotions, long, long stifled there, 
 
 Which sprang once more to life in thy calm, loving air. 
 
 I saw the last bright gleam of sunset play 
 
 On Yonah's lofty head ; all quiet grew 
 Thy bosom which beneath the shadows lay 
 
 Of the surrounding mountains; deeper blue 
 
 Fell on their mighty summits ; evening threw 
 Her veil o'er all, and on her azure brow 
 
 A bright star shone ; a trusting form I drew 
 Yet closer to my side ; above, below, 
 Within, were peace and hope, life may not often know ! 
 
 Thou loveliest of earth's valleys ! fare thee well ! 
 
 Nor is this parting pangless to my soul. 
 Youth, hope and happiness with thee shall dwell, 
 
 Unsullied nature hold o'er thee control, 
 
 And years still leave thee beauteous as they roll. 
 Oh ! I could linger with thee ! yet this spell 
 
 Must break, e'en as upon my heart it stole, 
 And found a weakness there I may not tell — 
 An anxious life, a troubled future claim me ! fare thee well ! 
 
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