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They may be reminded that by such communications they are not merely furnishing the means of improving the Handbook, but are contributing to the benefit, information, and comfort of their fellow-travellers. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill https://archive.org/details/handbookfortrave00unse_12 KEY MAP 1 ^ / «/) Jc \ si ^ / London. Join Mturay; Albemarle Street. J.Bsrthalamc'ff. Edin^' A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS THE ON RIVIERA, FROM MARSEILLES TO PISA, WITH OUTLINES OF THE ROUTES THITHER, AND SOME INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION ON THE CLIMATE AND THE CHOICE OF WINTER STATIONS FOR INVALIDS. WITH MAPS, AND PLANS OF TOWNS. LONDON: JOHN MUKKAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS : GALIGNANI AND CO.; BOYVEAU. 1892. THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS. Belgium, Holland, and Germany. T., 7 HEIDELBERG . MOHR. A1 A-i^ The present Edition of the ‘ Handbook to the Eiviera ’ has been partly abridged from those portions of the Handbooks to France and Northern Italy in which that district is described; but the Routes extracted have been entirely re-arranged, and in great measure re-written. New Routes have also been added, prepared expressly for this volume; and a short description has been given of all the Railway lines by which the English traveller is likely to approach the Riviera from the North. A special endeavour has been made to interest visitors to the Riviera in some hitherto little known hill-distHcts within easy reach of many parts of the coast, such as the mountains about Rapallo, Spezia, and the Esterels, to which attention has recently been drawn by Mr. Gladstone in his aiiicle on “ Dante,” ‘ Nineteenth Century,’ June, 1892. To further this object a number of new maps have been engraved for this book on a scale sufficiently large to be of practical use to pedestrians. The old-fashioned division of this beautiful coast-line into Riviera di Ponente and Riviera di Levante has been discarded as unpractical (except in the remarks relating to the Climate and the Choice of Winter Stations for Invalids, where it has been retained, as more appropriate; see Introduction, § 5, page [11]). The question with English visitors in search of health at the present day is not whether they shall fix their winter quarters E. or W. of Genoa, but whether they shall remain on the French side of the Riviera, or cross over into Italy. For practical purposes, therefore, the division is more naturally placed at Mentone, the last health resort within French territory. ( iv ) THE SPECIAL WINTER SERVICE OF THROUGH TRAINS FROM LONDON AND PARIS TO THE SOUTH OF FRANCE. For tlie convenience of Englisli passengers, a special “Nice express” will start from Paris (Nord Station) daily at 7.50 p.m., in connection with the 11 A.M. service from Victoria and Holborn, via Dover and Calais, and run through to Marseilles, Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, Mentone, Ventimiglia, &c. An interval of 50 minutes at Paris (Nord) will enable passengers to dine in comfort before departure of the express. A special feature of this new train will he the introduction of ordinary first-class carriages, without extra charge. It will also have “ lits salon ” carriages and sleeping cars attached, and a “coupe lits toilette” carriage will run through from Calais. The Mediter¬ ranean express, in connection with the 3 p.m. Club service from Victoria Station, will run once a week, on Thursdays. This train will be composed entirely of dining and sleeping cars, and will run through from Calais to stations on the Riviera. The London, Chatham, and Dover Company’s splendid steamers, Calais-Douvres, Empress, or Victoria, run daily in the 11 A.M. service from Victoria, Holborn, and St. Paul’s. The International Sleeping Car Company have three new and improved sleeping cars of eighteen places attached daily to the 8.25 p.m. rapide from the Gare de Lyon, Paris, and to the 7.40 p.m. special from the Gare du Nord, both going through to Ventimiglia with corresponding trains from London at 8 A.M,, 10 A.M., and 11 a.m. Both the railway and supplementary tickets for these services must be obtained at the Company’s London office in Pall Mall. ABBREVIATIONS, &c. (ri.) right, (Z.) left,—when applied to the banks of a river, the rt. is the one which lies on the right hand of a person looking down the stream, or whose back is turned towards the sorirce. klL, kilometre, m., English mile. Dept. Departement. Inhab., inhabitants. Cent., century. Rte., Roiite. p., page, fr., franc, hr., hour. Numerals within brackets after the name of a town signify Population; when followed by ft., they indicate height above the sea. After a Church or other building, figures imply date of erection; alter a proper name, date of death. S. P. Gr., in the case of English Chaplaincies abroad, means that the Chaplain is sent out by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. C. C. S. refers to the Colonial and Continental Church Society. ^ This mark indicates that additional information relating to the place to which it is attached is to be found in the Index and Directory. c., centime. Stat., Railway Station. M. II, Monument Jlisturique, attached to a building, shows it to be under the special protection or preservation of Government. * to draw attention, as especially worthy of notice, or, as in the case of Inns, of praise. RBC NcU ( V ) SECTION I. THE FRENCH RIVIERA Black letters iiiclicate the Routes in which the several places of interest are described. ROUTES.! ROUTE PAGE 1. Paris to Marseilles, by Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, Vienne, Valence, Orange, Avignon, and Arles.2 2. Marseilles to Mentone, by Toulon, Frejus, St. RaphaM, Cannes, Nice, and Monte Carlo.12 3. Marseilles to Hyeres, by Toulon.34 ROUTE PAGE 4. Hyeres to St. Raphael, by St. — Tropez.^36 5. Cannes to Frejus, by the Esterel Mountains ... 37 6. Geneva to Marseilles, by Aix- les-Bains, Grenoble, Meyrar- gues, and Aix-en-Provence . 38 7. Grenoble to Nice, by Digne . 43 8. Meyrargues to Nice, by Dra- guignan and Grasse ... 44 SECTION 11. THE ITALIAN RIVIERA. ROUTE PAGE 11. Paris to Genoa, by Macon, Bourg, Aix - les - Bains, the Mont Cents Tunnel, Turin, Asti, and Alessan¬ dria .oO 12. Mentone to Genoa, by Ven¬ timiglia, Bordighera, San Remo, Alassio, and Savona . 67 13. Nice to Genoa, by Sea . . 74 14. Nice to Spezia, by Carriage- road .75 15. Alessandria to Savona, by Acqui .78 ROUTE PAGE 16. Turin to Nice, by Cimeo, Lirnone, and the Col di Tenda 79 17. Turin to Savona, by Bra . 81 18. Genoa to Pisa, by Nervi, Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Sestri Levante, Spezia, and Viareggio.82 19. Lucerne to Genoa, by the St. Gotthard Tunnel, Lugano, Como, Monza, Milan, the Certosa, and Pavia . . . 105 20. Verona to Spezia, by Mantua and Parma.114 f These Routes follow the lines of the Railways everywhere, unless otherwise stated. The figures in the last column indicate the bi’anch lines from the various Junction Stations. There are separate stations at Frejus, Nice, Grasse, St. Raphael, Hyeres, Digne, Draguignan, and Meyrargues; at the first three they are at some distance apart; at the last five there is only a change of platform, from broad to narrow gauge. ( ) MAPS AND PLANS. Key Map, showing the position of other Maps and Plans. To face tUleparje. Map of Paris to Marseilles .. to face 4 „ the Phone Valley .. • • 8 Plan of Marseilles • • 12 „ Nice * • 20 Map of the Coast from Monaco to San Pemo • • 5) 02 „ the Piviera from Toulon to San Pemo • • 30 „ the Esterel Mountains • • 38 Plan of Turin 5) 54 „ Genoa, the centre of the City • • 04 „ „ whole City • • 00 „ San Pemo and Environs • • 08 Map of the Piviera from Mentone to Genoa • • 76 „ Papallo and Environs • • M 84 ,, GulfofSpezia • • n 80 Plan of Pisa .. • • . • 02 INTRODUCTION. For hints to Invalids on the Choice of a Winter Station, see p. [H]. French Money. In France, accounts are kept iw francFi and centime^i (or hundred })arts), the coinage being arranged on tlie decimal system. Each franc contains 10 decAmes, or 100 centimes. Silver Coins :— £ s. Piece of 1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = 0 0 „ .... 20 centimes = 4 sous = 0 0 „ i franc = 50 centimes = 10 sons = 0 0 „ 2 francs = 200 centimes = 40 sous = 0 1 „ 5 francs = 500 centimes = 100 sous = 0 4 Gold Coins :— Napoleon, or 20 franc piece . . . = Half Napoleon, or 10 franc piece . . = Quarter Napoleon, or 5 franc piece . . = 100 franc piece .....= 50 franc piece ......= 40 franc piece . . . . . = Copper (Bronze) Coins :— Decime, or 10 centime piece . . . = 5 centimes = 1 sou . . . . . = 2 centimes ......=: 1 centime ...... = d. 9| English. 2 4| 7 0 £ s. d. 0 10 0 0 8 0 0 4 0 4 0 0 2 0 0 1 12 0 0 0 1 0 0 01 0 0 01 0 0 Ojly The intrinsic value of the franc is 9*o238cZ.t The Bank of France issues notes for 1000, 500, 200, 100, and 50 francs, which are legal tender throughout the Republic, and are acce])ted also in the large towns and principal Hotels of Switzerland. Weights and Measures. A uniform decimal system of coins, weights, and measures was intro¬ duced into France in 1790, and since 1840 has been universally adopted, to the exclusion of all others. In this new system all the measures of length, superfices, and solidity, the unit of weight, and the unit of money, are connected, and are derived *}• The rate of exchange varies from day to day. It was as high as 26 francs during the war of 1870-71, and has been disturbed by the drainage of gold and large issues of paper. Occasionally it falls to 24*90. The average during recent years has been 25*20. The rate of exchange adopted by the English and French Post-offices for intei’iiational IMonej* Orders reckons the value of lOOO fr. at 39k R3.«. 7(7., and that of lOOOl. sterling at 25,200 fr. [2] Introduction. — Passports. from one fundamental measure of length, called Metre, equal to the ten-millionth part (O’0000001) of the distance from the pole to the equator of the terrestrial globe = 3 ’ 2808992 English feet. Eroin this are derived the gramme or unit of weight = 15*43235 English grains; litre ov unit of measure = 1’761 imperial pints; are or unit of land measure = 100 square metres = *02471 acre, from which is derived the hectare of 100 ares = 2*471 acres. On these units the other weights and measures are named by prefixes; the prefixes which express multiples are Greek; the prefixes which express fractions are Latin ; thus :— Myria- — metro 10,000 Metres. Kilo- — metre 1,000 „ Hecto- — metre 100 Deca- — metre 10 „ Metre Metre. Deci- — metre ZZl one-tenth of a metre. Centi- — metre ‘— one-hundredth „ Milli- — metre one thousandth ,, The same prefixes are applied to grammes, litres, and ares; the follow¬ ing are commonly used :— 1 Metre = 1 Kilometre = 1 Litre = 1 Hectolitre = 1 Hectare = 1 Gramme = 10 Grammes = 15 Grammes = 1 Kilogramme = 10 Kilogrammes = 3*281 English feet = 0*621 English mile = 1*761 Imp. pints. 22*010 Imp. gal. = 2*471 acres 15| grains avoird. ^ oz. avoird. ^ oz. avoird. 2*205 lbs. avoird. = 22 lbs. avoird. 3 feet 3 * 37 inches. J mile 213 yds. 2 inches. 22 Imp. gal. very nearly. 2| Imp. acres nearly. 2 lbs. 3*26 ounces. Passports. It is most imprudent to leave England unprovided with a Foreign Office Passport. British subjects are indeed officially admitted into France without any such document, on merely declaring their nationality; and thousands of Englishmen travel along the beaten tracks of the Continent every year, without ever being asked whether they have a Passport in their possession. But there is often difficulty in obtaining the delivery of registered letters without a Passport; and Englishmen, especially^e(ies- trians^ travelling in remote parts of France, or entering by a distant frontier, may arouse the suspicions of the local police, and run the risk not only of rough treatment but even of imprisonment f if they cannot produce a Passport with a tolerably recent vise. A Passport costs the traveller no trouble, and a very trifling expense. It may be obtained on application to Messrs. Lee and Carter^ 440, West Strand; Mr. Edw. Stanford, Charing Cross; or Messrs. Adams, 59, Fleet Street. These and other agents will furnish the document, duly arranged and mounted for the pocket, in a few days. f Two iustunces of thiy occurred in 1885, and no redress could be obtained. [3] Introduction,—London to Loris. London to Paris, by Pail and Steamer. a. By Folkestone Biid Boulogne, in 8 hrs. Rail from London to Folkestone in 1| hr., steamer to Boulogne, 2 lirs.. Rail to Paris in 4 lirs. The Tidal Night Service, via Folkestone and Boulogne, occupies 16 hrs.; for particulars see time-tables of South-Eastern Rly. Co. The trains leave Charing Cross at 10 a.m., and Paris—Gare du Nord—at the same hour. Fares: 1st class, 21. 15s.; 2nd class, 21. Return tickets (1 month), by Boulogne or Calais, 4d. 9s. and 3t. 8s. 6d. An extensive outer-port at Boulogne is projected, which, when finished, will be acces¬ sible at all hours of the tide. By crossing from Folkestone to Boidogne, instead of from Dover to Calais, 321 miles of land journey are saved. N.B. Travellers will do well to book through from London to Paris in order to leave Boulogne by the tidal train, otherwise they may have to wait for the next ordinary train. k By Dover, Calais, Boulogne, Amiens, distance 285 m., in 71 hrs. from London by the morning mail, S. E. Rly. Co. (Charing Cross and Cannon Street), 8 a.m. and evening mail at 8.15 p.m. ; or by the Lond. Chat. & Dov. Rly. Co. (Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and Ludgate Hill).— 1st class, 3?.; 2nd class, 21. 3s. 6d., tickets available for seven days. Return tickets available for one month, and by either Folkestone or Dover—1st class, 4Z. 9s.; 2nd class, 31. 8s. Qd. The “ Club Train ” leaves ,Charing Cross Station and ATctoria Station at 3 p.m. 1st class only; extra charge, 15s. There is also a Night Express at 8.15. At the Charing Cross and Cannon Street Stations of the South-Eastern Railway, and at the Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and Ludgate Hill Stations of the Chatham and Dover Railway, passengers’ luggage may be booked through to Paris, where it is examined by the Custom-house authorities, without any detention or trouble at Calais or Boulogne. On arriving at London it will be examined by the Custom-house officers in like manner. Charges for over-weight of luggage (above 56 lbs.) Is. Id. for every 10 lbs. c. By Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen, 255 m., in 11 hrs. Inn at Newhaven, London and Paris Hotel. Trains leave Victoria Stat. at 9 a.m. and 8.50 p.m., and London Bridge at 9.10 A.M. and 9.0 p.m. in connection with the Steamers from Newhaven. The recommendation of this route is its cheapness, but it involves a sea pas¬ sage (64 m.) of at least 4 hrs. The Steamers are large and well-appointed, the land journey from Dieppe is agreeable, and Rouen will well repay a halt of a day. . Passengers taken through tickets—1st class, 11. 14s. Id .; 2nd class, 1?. 5s. Id. ; 3rd class, 18s. 7d.—can remain 7 days on the road. 66 lbs. of luggage, overweight Id. per lb., can be booked direct for Paris. d. By Southampton, Havre, and Rouen, 15 hrs. Steamers in connection with the S.-W. Rly. Co.’s (Waterloo and Kensington) trains from London leave the Pier, Southampton, every Introduction. — Hailroads, [4] Monday, Wednesday, and Friday night (11.45 r.M.). Fares 33s. and 24s. Sea voyage, in large steamers, 84 m., in 8 hrs., of which 1^ hr. is under the Isle of Wight. Luggage can he hooked at London for Paris in tlie same way as by the other routes. Lokdon to Bale direct in 181 hrs., avoiding Paris, by Calais, Amiens, Laon, and Heims. Wagons-lits 18 fr., in addition to 1st class fare, 5L 3s. For this very important line of Ply., see Ilandhooh for France^ Rte. 404. London to Bale in 19 hrs., by Paris and Delle a Belfort, 1st class, 5?. 7s. bd ; second class, Zl. 15s. 10c?.; in 22 hrs. by Brussels, Luxemberg, and Strassburg, 1st class, 5?. 7s.; 2nd class, 3?. 19s. 9c?. London to Geneva, by Paris and Macon, in 21^^ hrs. Fare, 5?. 16s. 2c?. and 4?. Is. 4c?. London to Marseilles in 261 hrs.—^by Paris and Lyons. Fare, 67.18s. and 4?. 16s. London to Cannes in 30 hrs. Fare, 11. 15s. 3c?. and 5?. 7s. 9c?.; to Nice in 31 hrs. Fare, It. 17s. 6c?. and 5?. 9s. 3(7. Railroads. The Livret Chaix (1 fr. 50 c.), published monthl}^ or the Tndicateur Chaix (75 c.), weekly, contains the time-tables, fares, &c., of all the 7-ailways, as well as the public conveyances to the remotest localities from the several stations. The former is the “ Bradshaw ” of France, with very important improvements as to arrangement and clearness, corrected to the date of issue. The principal French lines have also separate time-tables sold at all their own stations (40 c.). Railway passengers with luggage should be at the station at least a quarter of an hour before the time advertised for starting. A separate ticket must be taken for luggage, which is subject to a registration fee of 10 cenls., and an additional sum for overweight. On arriving at his destination the traveller need not wait to claim his luggage, but may leave it till he chooses to present his ticket for it. 30 kilo ( = 66 lbs.) of luggage are allowed to every passenger, whether 1st, 2nd, or 3rd class, free of charge, except the 10 centimes charged for registering. Luggage may always be left at the railway “ en depot” on payment of a small fee. 'I'he cloak-room is called ‘ ta Consigned On certain lines, passengers are kept in the waiting-room (Salle d’Attente) until the train is ready to start, and no one is allowed access to the platform without a ticket. Express trains, except on some Inter¬ national through-routes, take only Ist-class passengers. On ordinary trains there are separate 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class carriages for ladies. Children over 3 and under 7 years of age travel half-price. At the stations, refreshment-rooms, buffets, are provided at certain intervals, where halts are made of 10, 20, or 30 minutes, according to the distance travelled. The 2nd-class carriages are, as a rule, comfortable. Sleeping-cars are attached to the long-distance express trains. Luggage-Ticket.—On arriving at their journey’s end, travellers instead of waiting for their luggage may give the ticket to the porter of the hotel to clear it. No examination generally takes place, except on arriving from England or upon entering France from a foreign state. Introduction.—Private Carriages — Inns^ Tahles-dliote, &c. [5] Private Carriages. Since the completion of the network of railways from Paris to the extremities of France, carriage driving has nearly become a thing of the past, blit a great deal of enjoyment is thereby lost, as this mode of tra¬ velling has many advantages of its own. The great national roads are magnificently kept, even the departmental ones being superior to the English turnpike-road, and the distances and directions are legibly given at every convenient point. No traveller should visit the Kiviera without driving along a part at least of the celebrated Cornice Koad (Rte. 14). Good carriages may be hired at Nice for about 21. a day. Distances are calculated by kilometres and myriametres. The carriage usually to be met with for hire in other parts of Provence and the Alpes Maritimes is the cabriolet—a heavy, lumbering, and jolting vehicle: the charge for it is commonly 8 or 9 fr. a-day, exclusive of a pourboire of 2 or 3 fr. to the driver. Diligences. The diligence is composed of a Coiq^e, like a chariot, in front, with 3 places, and an Interieur behind, with 4 or 6 places, entered from behind. There is a Banquette, or outside seat, on the top. It affords a comfortable and roomy seat by the side of the conductor, with the advantages of fresh air and the best view of the country. The pace is slow, rarely exceeding 6 or 7 m. an hour, and in bad weather, when roads are heavy, falling below that. The average rate of the fares may be calculated at a mile English, except for the coupe, which is somewhat higher. Diligences run on all important roads of France on which the traffic is not already engrossed by railways. Inns, Tables-d’hote, etc. On the whole, the inns in the provincial towns of France are inferior to those of Germany and Switzerland in general comfort and cleanliness. There is an exception to this, however, in the bed and table linen. Even the filthy cabaret, whose kitchen and salon are scarcely endurable to look at, commonly affords napkins and table-cloths clean, though coarse and rough, and beds with unsullied sheets and white draperies, together with well-stuffed mattresses and pillows, which put German cribs and feather¬ beds to shame. Some of the most important essentials to sanitary comfort, and personal decency, on the other hand, are utterly disregarded, and evince a state of degradation not to be expected in a civilised country, and highly discreditable to French manners and habits. The provision for personal ablution is defective. Fail not to take soap with you, a thing never to be found in foreign bedrooms. French Inns may be divided into two classes:— a. Those which make some pretension to study English tastes and habits, and in which the [G] Introduction. — Inns, Tahles-cVhote, dc, charges, for this reason, are comparatively high. Such exist on the great roads and in the large towns, h. Those which make no such pretension, but exist purely for the French themselves, and are often largely fre¬ quented by commercial men. In these, the English traveller who can conform to the customs of the country may live economically at 9 or 10 fr. a-day, service and wine included. In remote districts it will sometimes be less, but prices are advancing every year. Englishmen are advised not to stop at hotels which term themselves “commercial” unless they are prepared to leave their English prejudices at home, and take things as they find them. The majority of the company are frequently “ commis-voyageurs” (commercial travellers), who swarm in all the ])ro- vincial inns, and whose manner of dining is sometimes more business-like than refined. In one respect the innkeepers of France are more accommodating than those of Germany; they will furnish at almost any hour of the day, at 10 minutes or x hour’s notice, a very fair diimer of 5 or 6 dishes, at o to 4 fr. in hotels of the second class, or 5 to 6 fr. in the others—wine in the latter case not included. When ordering dinner in private, the raveller should specify the price at which he chooses to be served. In ^’emote places and small inns, never order dinner at a higher price than 4 fr.: the people have only the same food to present, even if they charged 10 fr. Travellers not dining at the table-d’hote should come to an under¬ standing beforehand for their meals at so much per head, otherwise they will be charged for each dish a la carte. The usual charge for a table d’hote dinner in thoroughly French inns, is 3 to 4 fr. (including wine in a wine country, but not in the north), and ought never to exceed that sum except in large towns and first-rate inns. In French inns it is the universal custom to lock the door of your room when going out of the house. The scale of charges in large towns will be higher than that given in the following^ table, and for many years prices have been rising so much in France that it is difficult to estimate them with precision. Average Charges at French Provincial Hotels. Bedroom, 2 fr. 50 c. to 3 fr. and upwards. BreaJefast, tea or coffee, with bread and butter, 1 fr. to 1 fr. 50 c.; eggs, 50 c.; dejeuner d la fourchette, 3 fr. In almost all hotels there is a table- d’hote breakfast at 10.30 or 11. Pinner, table-d’hote, 4 fr. to 5 fr.—in aj)artments, 5 fr. to 8 fr. Bottle of vin ordinaire, 2 fr. to 3 fr., but generally included in the charge for dinner in wine-growing countries. The better descriptions of wines are sold also in demi-bouteilles. {Cafe noir), 50 c. It is usual to take it at a Cafe, where it is always better, and costs 6 to 8, and with a glass of brandy 10 to 12 sous. Bougies (wax lights), 1 fr. or 50 c. each. Attendance, 75 c. to 1 fr. per diem. Porter (not included in the bill), 56 c. to 1 fr., or more, according to the amount of service rendered. [7] In troduction. — Cafes — Churches, Cafes. AVe have no equivalent in England to the Cafes in France, and the number and splendour of some of these establishments, everywhere seemingly out of proportion to the population and to other shops, not only in Paris, but in every provincial town, may excite suspicion. They are adapted to all classes of society, from the magnificent salon, resplendent with looking-glasses, and glittering with gilding, down to the low estami- nets, resorted to by the working population, which abound in every town and village, however remote. The latter sort occupy the place of the beer- shops of England, furnish beer and brandy, as well as coffee, and, though not so injurious to health and morals as the gin-palaces of London, are more destructive of time. It is only to the superior class of cafes that an English traveller is likely to resort, and they furnish some agreeable resources to a visitor in a strange place. Ladies as well as gentlemen frequent these establish¬ ments, and obtain in the afternoon a demi-tasse of coffee well preparetl, and a petit verre of liqueur; and in the evening, in summer, excellent ices, sorbets, orgeats, limonade, and other cool drinks; and in winter a very tolerable potation called “ punch,” but differing from its English name¬ sake. They are always supplied with the journals of Paris and the provinces, including, in the principal cities, ‘ Galignani’s Messenger,’ and have billiard-tables attached to them. In the evening they are most frequented, and even in the most re¬ spectable (except the first-rate Parisian cafes) the company is very mixed: clerks, tradesmen, commis-voyageurs, soldiers—officers as well as privates—and men in blouses, crowded about a multitude of little marble tables. A large cup of coffee (cafe au lait), with bread-and-butter and an egg for breakfast, costs about 1 fr. 50 c. A demi-tasse, or small cup, in the afternoon, 6 sous; coffee in a glass, 7 or 8 sous; a petit verre de cognac, 4 to 6 sous. The waiter expects a sou for every half franc expended. The indication of Hotels is a matter .of extreme difficulty, to which every possible attention has been given. The best Inns, as far as can be ascertained, are marked with an asterisk, and special pains have always been taken to note favourably those hotels which, in addition to providing good food and comfortable rooms, are satisfactory also upon a certain important point of health and cleanliness. Churches. The Cathedrals and Churches of France are seldom shut at 12 o’clock, as in Italy. They usually remain open all day, until the hour of Ave Maria; except sometimes on Sunday, when they close after Vespers and Benediction (Salut), quite early in the afternoon. In most of the large towns places of worship for the performance of the English Church Service have been established, and at many there are resident English ministers. The Society for the Propagation of the Gospel and the Colonial and Continental Society have about 60 stations, at which English Episcopal Chaplains are supplied for a longer or shorter period. With few exceptions the stipends are very small, and English Introduction.—Postal Begiilations—Thermometer Table. travellers availing themselves of the benefit afforded by these places of worship should remember that they are bound to contribute, according to their means, to the support of the establishment and their ministers. The French Frotestant State churches, found in most of the large towns, arc called Temples ; those receiving no aid Irom the State are called Chapelles Evangeliques. The Keformed Consistorial or Established Church under the control of the State comprises 103 Consistories, 483 Parishes, and 573 Pasteurs. The Union of Free Evangelical churches now numbers about 45 buildings. Postal Kegulations. Inland Letters cost 15 c.; letters to England, or any country within the Postal Union, 25 c. for every 15 grammes. Kegistered letter, either to France or England, 25 c. extra. Letters containing large sums of money or other valuables must bear five seals, and be insured for an additional 25 c., and 10 c. for each 100 fr. of declared value. Newspapers to any part of France, 2 c. up to 25 grammes. To England, 5 c. for every 50 grammes. Books or Printed Matter, 1 c. for 5 gr,, 5 c. for 20 gr.; above 50 gr., 5 c. for each additional 50 gr. Post Office Orders, 1 per cent, on the value inland; 20 c. for every 10 fr. to England. Maximum value, 10?. Telegraph.—To France, 10 words, 50 c.; to England, 20 c. a word. Thermometer Table. Deg. Cent. Deg. Fahr. : Deg. Cent. Deg. Fahr. Deg. Cent. Deg. Fahr. 60 140 j 39 102-2 19 66-2 59 138-2 ! 38 100-4 18 64-4 58 136-4 37 98 6 17 62-6 57 134-6 36 96-8 16 60-8 56 132-8 35 95 1 15 59 55 131 34 93-2 14 57-2 54 129-2 33 91-4 13 55-4 53 127-4 32 89-6 12 53-6 52 125-6 31 87-8 11 51-8 51 123-8 30 86 1 10 50 50 122 29 84-2 ‘ 9 48-2 49 120-2 28 82-4 8 46-4 48 118-4 27 80-6 1 7 44-6 47 116-6 26 78-8 i 6 42-8 46 114-8 25 77 5 41 45 113 24 75-2 4 39-2 44 111-2 , 23 73-4 3 37-4 43 109-4 22 71-6 2 35-6 42 107-6 21 69-8 1 33-8 41 105-8 20 68 0 32 40 104 1 Xntroductioiii — Provence^ Languedoc, and Nice. [ 9 ] PKOVEKCE, LANGUEDOC, AND NICE. 1. Features of Provence: Climate, People. —2. Mistral. —3. Mosquitoes.-^ 4. Fertility and varied Productions. —5. Roman Antiquities. —6, Gothic Architecture. — 7. The Rhone. — 8. The Riviera and its Climate; with hints to Invalids on the Choice of a Winter Station. § 1. The Englishman who knows the S. of France only from books—who there finds Provence described as the cradle of Poetry and Eomance, the paradise of the Troubadours, a land teeming with oil, wine, silk, and perfumes—has probably formed in his mind a picture of a region beautiful to behold, and charming to inhabit. Excepting, however, in a small and favoured district near Cannes—Mentone—which is indeed a little paradise in climate and vegetation, these anticipations will scarcely be realised on the spot. Nature has altogether an arid character;—in summer a sky of copper, an atmosphere loaded with dust, the earth scorched rather than parched by the unmitigated rays of the sun. The hills rise above the surface in masses of bare rock, without any covering of soil. Only on the low grounds, which can be reached by irrigation, does any verdure appear. In summer the aching eye in vain seeks to repose on a patch of green, and the inhabitant of the North would not readily purchase the clear cloudless sky of Provence with the verdure of misty England. Neither the bush-like vine nor the mopheaded mulberry, stripped of its leaves for a great part of the summer, nor the tawny green olive, whose foliage looks as though powdered with dust, will at all compensate in a picturesque point of view for forests of oak, ash, and beech. The character of the jDeople appears influenced by the fiery sun and soil, which looks as though it never cooled. Their fervid temperament knows no control or moderation; hasty and headstrong in disposition, they are led by very slight religious or political excitement, on sudden impulses, to the committal of acts of violence unknown in the North. They are rude in manner, coarse in aspect, and harsh in speech, their patois being unintelligible, even to the French themselves, and resembling the Spanish dialect of Catalonia. From the loudness of tone and energy of gesture, they appear always as though quarrelling when merely carrying on an ordinary conversation. On the other hand, the beauty of the women of the lovrer classes in some of the most southern of the towns on the PJione is remarkable, and may probably be traced to their Greek ancestors. Those who are prone to complain of the climate of England should be sent to try that of the South of France. If they expect an unvarying serene sky and warm temperature, they will be woefully disappointed. The variations between summer and winter are marked by the dead olive, and vines killed by the frost; and the torrid influence of summer by the naked beds of torrents left without water. In many years not a drop of rain falls in June, July, and August, and the quantity is at all times small: the great heats occur between the middle of July and the end of September, yet even in summer scorching heat alternates with a piercing cold; and the vicissitudes are so sudden and severe, that Riviera, c Introduction. — Provence.. Languedoc, and Nice. strong persons, mucli more invalids, should beware how they yield to the temptation of wearing thin clothing, and of abandoning cloaks and great-coats. § 2. One cause of the sudden changes in temperature is the Mistral or N.W. wind, one of the scourges of Provence, from the occurrence of which no season is exempt. It is a violent, bitterly cold, and drying wind, which brings with it a yellow haze; it often affects the action of the liver, and is very painful to the eyes and face. It prevails chiefly in sjDring all along the coast, and up the Rhone as far as Valence. “ Voila le vent, le tourbillon, I’ouragan, les diables dechaines qui veulent emporter votre chateau; quel ebranlement universel! ” are the words in which Madame de ^evigne describes it; it overthrows at times the largest trees ; their branches generally grow in a direction contrary to its cutting blasts, and while it rages, vessels are not unfrequently prevented putting out to sea in the teeth of it. It was well known to the ancients, and is supj)osed to be the Melamhorias of Strabo, which he describes as sweeping stones and gravel from the ground. It is sufficient to blow a man from his horse. § 3. Another plague of the South of France are the mosquitoes (cousins or moucherons), which, to an inhabitant of the North, unaccustomed to their venomous bite, will considerably diminish the pleasure of travelling. They appear in May, and last sometimes to November; and the only good which the mistral effects is that it modifies the intensely hot air of summer, and represses, momentarily, these pestilent insects. They are not idle by day, but it is at night that the worn-out traveller needing repose is most exposed to the excruciating torments inflicted by this insect. AV'oe to those who for the sake of coolness leave their windows ojDen for a minute ; attracted by the light, these insects will pour in by myriads. Even closed shutters and a mosquito curtain (cousiniere), with which all beds in good inns ought to be provided, are ineffectual in protecting the sleeper, unless the net be seamless, and absolutely free from holes. A scrutiny of the walls, and a butchery of all that appear, may lessen the number of enemies; but a single one eflecting an entry, after closing the curtains and tucking up the bed¬ clothes with the utmost care, does all the mischief. The pain and swellings usually last for several days, and there is little other remedy but patience and ammonia; no better means of protection can be suggested than a well-constructed mosquito curtain. § 4. The foregoing description of Provence and Bas Languedoc has been limited to the dark side of the picture; it remains to mention the resources, fertility, and curiosities of the country. Its valleys, and lowlands accessible to irrigation, are most fertile; and the earth, where it can be sufficiently supplied with moisture, teems with varied p^roductions all the year round. Before the spring is over, the mulberry-trees, which line the roads and cross the fields, are stripped of their juicy foliage to feed the silkworm—silk being a source of immense and increasing wealth in the S. pirovince of France. Early in summer comes the corn-harvest, the crops having grown, for the most part, under the boughs of the mulberry or vine; sunsliine and soil sufficing for both. Introduction. — Provence^ Languedoc, and Nice, [ 11 ] Autumn is the season of the vintage; and the wines of Lunel and Fron- tignan have a widely-established reputation, though the hulk of the produce is used in the manufacture of wines and for mixing with other sorts. Chestnuts on the higher grounds are another crop collected in the same season, and furnishing a store of wholesome food for the peasant during winter. The winter has set in before the olives are gathered and pressed. A visit to the market-place in every town will show with what abundance the earth brings forth fruits and vegetables of endless variety—grapes, figs, melons, almonds, citrons, mushrooms, tomatoes, truffles, &c . The drying and preserving of fruits of various kinds is a great source of wealth to Provence, and especially to that fertile district which we shall include in a brief sketch of the Piiviera (see below). § 5. Another attraction of Provence consists in its Koman Kemaixs, not surpassed in extent and preservation by any in Italy. No traveller should omit seeing the Pont du Gard, between Avignon a.nd Nimes, or the walls of the Theatre at Orange, stupendous and most impressive structures, perfectly characteristic of the great people that raised them; the Amphitheatres of Nimes and Arles, though less enormous than the Colosseum, are more interesting on account of their better preservation. The Maison Carree is a gem of architecture; the monuments at St. Eemy, and the Arch at Orange, are also noteworthy. § 6. The student of Christian architecture will find much to interest him in the churches of Arles and its vicinity, at St. Gilles, Aix, and Avignon, where the stupendous Papal palace is also a very interesting historical monument. To these must be added the unique deserted fortress of Les Baux. In these and other medireval monuments of S.E. France the traveller will not fail to observe the long-perpetuated infiuence of Koman archi¬ tecture on the ecclesiastical edifices of the district. “ A marked difference of character prevails between the church architecture of the S. of France and that of the N., in the smallness of the windows, designed no doubt to exclude the glare and heat. This gives the southern churches a much greater solemnity than those immense lantern-structures of the N.; unless i the windows are entirely filled with stained glass, it is difficult to produce ' the same effect. The infiuence of climate evidently gave rise to the dis¬ tinctions in the two styles.”— S. For the architecture of Provence, see MacGibbon’s book on that subject (1889). But the interest attaching to the shores of Provence and Languedoc takes us much farther back than Christian or Koman times. Their history extends over a period of three thousand years. Centuries before the epoch assigned to the siege of Troy, wild Iberian and Ligurian tribes had peopled the present sites of rich, fiourishing and beautiful cities. They were followed by a more beneficent invasion, that of the art and luxury-loving Phoenician, introducing the wealth of the East, and in their track, the polished Ionian Greeks of Asia Minor, who have left a perma¬ nent stamp in many places they colonised. But more than one other name of nations must be inscribed palimpsest-wise over this scroll, ere we reach the final one of French. Not the vanished city of Maguelonne c2 [ 12 ] Introduction. — Provence, Languedoc, and Nice. alone has been by turns Ph(]enician, Greek, Celtic, Homan, Saracenic, Gaul, in Languedoc; whilst along the Kiviera archaeologists of our day have lighted upon landmarks of a civilization that existed long prior to that of Greece and Rome. “ La Provence,” indeed, as a learned French writer says, “ c’est encore I’Orient. File en a la couleur, les immenses horizons, les vastes solitudes, le mirage et I’eblouissanto lumi^re; et si elle se montre quelquefois here de la beaute de ses femmes, c’est qu’elles ont conserve dans leurs yeux un reflet de son soleil. Aussi loin qu’on pent remonter dans le passe, I’Orient penetre la Provence.” The same writer truly observes that we must not regard the Saracenic invasions as mere wild incursions of piratical and barbaric hosts. The Saracens, who dreamed of nothing less than a Mahometan domination of the Mediter¬ ranean, have left traces of arts and industries. In certain gorges of the Alpes Mari times subteiranean passages have been discovered, showing that the Saracens had attempted to work the lead and copper-veins of the mountains. In other places it is equally clear that they cultivated the fields and built houses. “ It is very probable,” writes M. Lentheric, “ that if they had enjoyed a period of quiet, and their domination had been accepted for a century or two, they would have transformed Provence into a second Andalusia, have cultivated with extraordinary success the lower valley of the Rhone and the entire region of Provence, and have fertilised the plains of Arles by culture and irrigation, as they had already done in Valencia and Granada.” There were five Saracenic invasions of Provence before the final defeat of the Mussulman forces by Charles Martel before Poitiers. The Berbers have given their name to the chain of mountains called Jes Maures that shelter Hyeres from the sea; and along the coast, here and there may still be traced their fortified towns of observation called Fraxinet, from the forests of frene (ash-trees) which then crowned the heights. § 7. The Rhone, 525 m. long, is the most important river, after the Nile, which falls into the Mediterranean, and is the swiftest in Europe, the ordinary current being about 4 m. an hour. It is not of commercial utility proportioned to its length and volume, owing to its turbulence and shifting sand-banks. Yet it is a noble river, and its scenery, though inferior to that of the Rhine, has a totally different character, and an excellence of its own. The Rhone does not become navigable until a short distance above Lyons. Between Beaucaire and Arles the stream is as level as a lake, the surface at Arles being not quite 4 ft. above the sea, although the river has still nearly 30 m. to run. At Arles it divides into two branches, the Grand and Petit Rhone, enclosing between them the fan¬ shaped Delta of the Camargue, a large part of which is a desert of salt sand, traversed by troops of wild oxen and horses. The quantity of allu¬ vium brought down by the river is great, and the absence of tide in the Mediterranean to sweep it away has rendered the navigation uncertain. The early history of the Greek and Phoenician Colonies in Provence yields a great interest to travellers in that country. The primitive Annals have been admirably illustrated by M. Charles Lentheric, Engineer of Les Ponts et Chaussees, in a series of works, in which he has given the subject a thorough treatment. The English traveller should by all means jeruse or consult (1), ‘ La Provence Maritime ’; (2), ‘ La Grece, et Introduction. — Provence, Languedoc, and Nice. [ 13 ] rOrient ’; (3), ‘ Les Villes Mortes du Golfe de Lyon ’; and (4), ‘ Le llhone,’ 2 vols.; a complete monograph on the river and its hanks, 1892, all pub¬ lished by Plon, of Paris. They will yield additional pleasure to a sojourn in the South of France by unfolding many interesting historic associations. Travellers in Provence should know something about its flora, along the littoral so rich and varied. Whilst in Lombardy and Tuscany the flora is mainly that of Central Europe ; the Eiviera, owing to its peculiarly favoured climate, has a vegetation of its own. Not to speak of the orange and the lemon, introduced in Provence from the East, and the olive, supposed to be a native of the south-eastern parts of the Mediterranean area, there is a great variety of evergreen trees; at Hyeres, the cork- oak, or Quercus suber, and the Ilex, the bay, arbutus, carob, with conifers in abundance, the stone pine, pinaster, Aleppo pine, and Italian cypress. Among deciduous trees are the Judas tree, the almond, the peach, the myrtle, and a multiplicity of leguminous shrubs. Genista, and Oytisus. Add to these the fragrant Labiatas, thyme, rosemary, lavender, etc. Beside the rivers are found the oleander and great Euphorbia dendroides, with many varieties of Cistus, the small and large fruited Asphodel, and in the w^oods the blue periwinkle and the lovely little Convolvulus althxoides, with its rose-coloured flowers. Yellow and white narcissus abound in the plains, and anemones in the olive-woods; ’ later, come the brilliant tulips; nor must the blue hapaticas, the white ^ and rose alliums, the purple gladiolus, the exquisite little primulaceus I flower, Coris monspheliensis, be forgotten. Close upon the shore are the Mathiola incana, the Coronilla valentina, the Cineraria maritima, and others. Amongst the recently acclimatised trees must be mentioned ' the health-giving and swift-growing Eucalyptus globulus, or blue gum-tree ; of Australia, now so largely planted on account of its valuable anti-febrile i qualities. j All valetudinarians may with profit consult Dr. West’s little volume, j ‘ Nice and its Climate,’ wherein are found a vast number of valuable facts j and suggestions regarding climate, site, &c. Formerly the want of proper : drainage along the Eiviera was the most serious drawback to a sojourn i here. Cesspools supplied, and still in many cases supply, the place of I sewers, and these are often under the houses. In choosing hotels, lodgings, I and villas, visitors should avoid those near the shore, and in the vicinity I of the egouts. I § 8. The Riviera and its Climate.—The name Eiviera is commonly I applied to the entire length of coast from Toulon to Leghorn, although I it more specially belongs to the Gulf of Genoa. The Western Eiviera, I or Riviera di Ponente, stretches from Toulon to the Italian frontier, and beyond this to Voltri. The Eastern Eiviera, or Riviera di Levante, is the continuation of the same coast to the E. and S. as far as Pisa and Leghorn, with Yoltri, Pegli, and Sestri to the west of Genoa, whilst the other important stations, such as Nervi, Eapallo, Chiavari, Spezia, Carrara, and Viareggio lie to the east of that town. The Western Riviera includes among its principal health resorts, Hyeres, St. Tropez, Frejus and St. Raphael, Cannes, Grasse, Antibes, Nice, Villefranche, Beaulieu, Monaco and Monte Carlo, Cap Martin, Mentone, Bordighera, Ospedaletti, San Eemo, Alassio and Savona, 1 I I [14J Introduction. — Provence, Languedoc, and Nice. Taken as a whole the Kiviera combines remarkable picturesque beauty with a climate so serene and warm in winter, and generally protected from blasts, as is demonstrated by a vegetation semi-tropical, that it has become the resort of thousands of yearly visitors flying from the rigour of an English winter, or attracted by the charms of a southern climate. Though it is not entirely exempt from slight frost and occasional snow, it enjoys warm and sunny winters. This it owes to the joint influence of the sea and of protecting mountain-ranges, which stretch down from the high Alps, and of one or two minor chains, the Maures and the Esterels, running parallel with the coast. The screen thus formed wards off, in great part, the chilling draughts from the north, and the trying Mistral, a cold and dry north-west wind which blows during the spring (from February till the beginning of April) from the plains of Provence and the Valley of the Rhone. In this favoured region, the true garden of Provence, the aloe, the cactus, the Aleppo and umbrella-pines, the pomegranate, the orange, and even the palm-tree, may he seen flourishing in the open air. These favouring circumstances have given rise to a special agricultural industry—the cultivation of garden flowers in open fields of many acres, which are luxuriant with aromatic plants, heliotropes, orange-flowers, jasmines, and roses, supplying the perfume-distilleries of Grasse, where more scents, essences, &c., are made than in any town in Europe, save Paris. The Riviera as a Winter Resort for Invalids.—On this subject Dr. Wm. Ewart writes as follows: “Exceptional natural advantages have won for the Riviera a great reputation in the climatic treatment of many complaints for which life in the open air, sun-light, and sun-heat are essen¬ tial remedies. Among them are included the various pulmonary affections, catarrhal states of the gastric as well as of the bronchial membrane, lymphatic disorders, anasmia, slow convalescence or constitutional debility both in the young and in the aged, some forms of renal disease, and the la) ge group of the affections of the joints. The subsoil, being in great measure lime¬ stone, helps to lower the humidity of the atmosphere ; and the air of most of the health stations in the Western Riviera may be described as moderately dry. Associated with this dryness, the air possesses also stimulating properties, which it derives from the neighbourhood of the sea and of the mountains, from the daily alternations of the land-breeze and of the sea- breeze, and from the clearness of the sky and the resulting brightness of the sunlight. To most invalids these are inestimable advantages, since they promote a cheerfulness which is essential to perfect health, and add to the inducements to indulge in invigorating excursions. Yet, to a few the dry stimulating character of the air is not well suited, and may be even detrimental. Sufferers from nervousness or excitability, and those liable to neuralgia, are apt to lose their sleep, and to experience an aggra¬ vation of their symptoms, particularly at some of the winter stations. Among the special drawbacks which are inseparable from the advantages of the climate must also be mentioned the fine irritating dust which arises from the roads, and should be avoided as much as possible by pulmonary invalids; and another danger against which all visitors, but especially the latter, should be warned is the sudden drop in the temperature of the air which occurs whenever the sun is clouded over, and particularly at sunset. This peculiarity of the climate renders the carrying of extra wraps, even Introduction. — Provence, Languedoc, and Nice, [ 15 ] on warm days, imperative. Again, the small rise and fall of the tide renders the disposal of sewage a matter of some difficulty; and in the I larger towns the immediate vicinity of the sea is, in some situations, neither enjoyable nor safe. Sanitation has of late years received con- ! siderable attention at the more frequented stations; but in others, and especially in the Eastern Riviera, it has been too much neglected, and ! many a lovely and sheltered spot cannot, for this reason, be recommended with confidence.” “Between the climates of the Western and the Eastern Riviera a broad distinction may be drawn, which is connected with their different exiwsures. The air is less dry and less stimulating along the eastern coast. For the Western Riviera, the following averages are given by von /lemssen. During the six winter months the mean temperature ranges from 48° to 53° F., and the mean humidity from 65 to 70 per cent. The rainy days number from 45 to 50; the days entirely overcast, from 10 to 20; the fine days from 110 to 120. Putting aside the daily land ’ breeze and sea-breeze, strong winds blow on about 40 days; a moderate or I fresh breeze on 80 days; and a calm prevails on 80 days. December and j January are usually calm months, and from the middle of February to I the beginning of April the Mistral is the predominant wind. In regard to each of these elements of climate wide differences exist between the ' several Villes d’hiver; each of them has indeed a climate of its own, and i, in so important a matter as a choice between them invalids should he !• guided hy experienced advice. They should bear in mind that it is not only in the selection of the town, but in that of the site of the house and ij of the aspect of the rooms that discretion must be exercised. Individual j requirements vary much. For some invalids proximity to the sea is I i)ivjndicial, and it may be necessary to choose a sjrot farther inland. In j one case absolute protection from wind and a rather softer air may be ! needed; in others, the more invigorating atmosphere of the heights. In j others again the exhalations of a pine forest may be of advantage. In I some, sunshine and warmth pure and simple are the chief requirements; ; in others the oiqjortunities for varied exercise.” I “ A brief sketch of the leading characteristics of the principal health- stations will be of interest to many : I Hyeres, distant 3 miles from the sea, is the larger and more frequented i of the two inland resorts of the Riviera. Its climate is less exciting than that of the coast, and otherwise excellent, but for the unchecked access of the Mistral to the valley and to j^art of the town. Costebelle, at a distance of 2 miles from Hyeres, and of 11 mile from : the sea, owes its charm and its protection from wind to its hidden seclusion j among wooded hills. The town of St. Raphael, facing west, on the Bay of Frejus, is without protection from the Mistral; but farther east its wooded slopes afford abundant shelter and shade. Cannes is partly protected by the lies de Lerins from southerly gales, as well as towards the west by the Esterels, towards the east by the Cap de la Croisette, and towards the north by hills which unfortunately fail to com¬ pletely ward off the Mistral. The village of Le Caunet is regarded as the most protected site in the district; but in the large area over which Cannes itself now extends many specially sheltered spots are to be found. [16] Introduction. — Provence, Languedoc, and Nice. Cannes is not well suited to cases of advanced pulmonary disease, and (he air is rather exciting for nervous patients. Cap d’Antibes, though exposed to the Mistral, is a pleasant and suitable spot for convalescents or patients only slightly affected. Grasse, due north of Cannes, at a distance of 12 miles from the sea, has the unique advantage of combining with the tonic yet soothing influence of altitude, much of the warmth, sunshine, and protection from wind special to the seaside resorts of the Kiviera. For many invalids its climate is more beneficial than that of the latter. Its reputation is deservedly growing. Nice, although warm, dry, and sunny, and a delightful resort for appro¬ priate subjects, is open to winds from the north-east and from the north¬ west. Cimiez, its satellite, has the advantage of less dust, less wind, and less exciting air. Villefranche and Beaulieu are both beautifully situated, and well pro¬ tected from the Mistral. Their winter climate is excellent. Monte Carlo is exceptionally well sheltered and warm. The heat of the sun is not only reflected, but as it were stored up by the protecting cliffs. The air is very dry and exciting. The freedom from dust is an important advantage for patients suffering from pulmonary affections. Mentone offers a valuable choice of climates. The East bay has a re¬ putation for possessing an atmosphere both warmer and less exciting than that of any of the French stations; but it is rather shut in at the back, and its residences are all situated within a short distance of the sea. The West bay contrasts with it in being less protected, and rather less Avarm, but decidedly more bracing. Cap Martin, near Mentone, claims to be protected on all sides. It faces due south, and is surrounded by pine woods and olive groves. Bordighera. This lovely spot, famous for its plantations of palm-trees and luxuriant olive groves, faces S.S.W. and affords good ])rotection from the north and east winds ; but the neighbouring valle 3 "s are not equally sheltered. The air is less exciting than at most other stations in this part of the Kiviera, and renders its climate specially valuable in selected cases. San Eemo, sunny and Avarm, free from the Mistral, and thoroughly protected from the north, is somewhat open to the east Avind: and the air is relatively more invigorating than that at Bordighera. It has fewer rainy days than most other sites. Its climate can be recommended to a large class of invalids. Alassio affords good shelter at the foot of the Avooded hills Avhich rise behind it. The town itself is not thoroughly protected from the north and north-east Avinds. Pegli, situated close to the junction of the Kiviera di Ponente and of the Riviera di Levante, may be regarded as partaking of the climate of both. It is Avell protected from the north Avind by offshoots from the Apennines, and by pine woods Avhich extend close to the shore. Nervi, another favourite resort, 9 miles east of Genoa, is thoroughly sheltered, free from dust, and enjoys great evenness of temperature. Its relative humidity is 70 per cent., with comparatively few rainy days. Santa Margherita, at the entrance of the bay of Rapallo, is Avell j)ro- tected and commands a fine view; but from a sanitary point of view leaves much to be desired. Eapallo, facing due south, is sheltered from the north and the east, but Introduction. — Italy: Practical Information. [17] rather open to the west. Its vegetation is luxuriant, and its scenery remarkably fine. Spezia, yet more celebrated for its magnificent scenery and grand harbour than as a health resort, is not deficient in climatic virtues. Though not relaxing the air is decidedly less exciting than that of the Western Kiviera. The rainy days are about 74 during the winter months. Chiavari is remarkable for the tropical richness of its vegetation. Hitherto it has been more frequented during the summer and autumn than during the winter. Viareggio is the last of the marine health resorts of the Kiviera dl Levante. Its atmosphere is relatively moist and at times foggy. The neighbouring pine woods constitute an important climatic feature, and add to its value as a resort for some of the affections of the respiratory tract.” “ In conclusion, the popularity and the climatic reputation of the Western Kiviera are firmly established. The same cannot yet be said of the Eastern Kiviera, though it offers undeniable advantages for patients with whom a drier atmosphere does not agree. The development of its climatic resources is a mere question of time; and it should be borne in mind that against existing sanitary risks may at least be set off the relative cheapness of living at its less fashionable stations.” ITALY. Practical Information. Railways.t— Express Trains (treni diretti). The charge for travelling by these trains is 10 per cent, higher than by the ordinary trains. Aver¬ age S[)eed, including stoppages, miles an hour. An extra Express {direttissimo), called by the Italians il Jampone (lightning), on account of its great rapidity, runs between Tuiiti and Kome by Genoa (312 m.) in 14 hrs. 37 min., and between Milan and Kome by Florence (416 m.) in 13J hrs., giving an average of 19x and 31 miles respectively in an hour. Smoking carriages are provided on all trains. The notice on the door is sometimes permissive (^pei fumatori\ sometimes prohibitory (e vietato il fumare). In cases where there is no notice at all, the traveller is recom¬ mended to come to an understanding with the Guard. Tickets {Biglietti). —Single, return, or Circular Tickets can be obtained for all parts of the Continent at Messrs. H. Gaze and Son’s Offices, 142 Strand, 4 Northumberland Avenue; or at Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son’s Offices, 5 Ludgate Circus, 445 West Strand, and 35 Piccadilly; in Paris at 9 Kue Scribe. IKese agents will be found very obliging in supplying all kinds of information with regard to trav^elling. Circular 4'ickets in Italy can bo procured at the offices of the Kailway Company, in any of the principal towns. The traveller is strongly advised to be at the Station in good time. Except at Genoa, and one or two important terminal or international Stations, there is only one guichet for all classes, and no Official in attend¬ ance to preserve order and prevent crushing and confusion. The arrange¬ ments, in short, at most Italian Stations, are in this respect by no means f For inforjnation regarding the special winter Rail'vay service to the Jlivicra, see page iv. [ 18 ] Introduction,—Italy : Money. creditable to the authorities. Children under 3 years of age free; between 3 and 7 half-price. Above 7 the full fare. The 2nd-class carriages are fairly comfortable, and many English travel¬ lers make use of them. The clerks at the stations are not to be depended upon for change; it is therefore desirable to be ahvays 'pre'pared ivith change beforehand. Italian paper money of the Banca Nazionale is now generally accepted, even when the journey extends across the French or Austrian frontier. Luggage.—Small hand-articles not exceeding 20 chilo. (44 lbs.) in weight, or about 2 ft. x 1 ft. in size, are free, on condition that they can be stowed away in the carriage without inconvenience to the other passen¬ gers. Everything consigned to the luggage-van is j^aid for according to weight, and a ticket (sconfrino') obtained for it, which must be produced at the end of the journey. Travellers should examine their luggage ticket at the time it is handed to them, to see that the destination is properly stated. Cloak-room (Beposito). —Articles of luggage may be left at the Station, and claimed whenever required on production of the deposit ticket, for which a trifling charge is made, always stated on the ticket. Luggage by quick trains accompanying passengers who have through tickets to France, Switzerland, or Austria ought not to contain any articles that are liable to duty, as the declarations and formalities of pay¬ ment involve delay, and sometimes loss of train. Persons are allowed to change from a lower to a higher class carriage on paying the difference. Express fare, 1st class, is about 20 c. a mile; 2nd class, 14 c. On several of the main lines there are Sleeping Cars and carriages with couches (coupe a letti), which must be secured beforehand. The extra charge is about 10 per cent, on the ordinary fare. They may be engaged from Modane (or Turin) to Florence, from Modane (or Turin) to Venice, and from Milan or Venice to Florence. Private Carriages.—Although most places of interest to travellers in iNorth Italy can now be reached by railway, it is sometimes desirable and more pleasant to hire a carriage; especially between Spezia and the French frontier, to enjoy the beauties of the Cornice Road. In these districts a private carriage can always be procured through the proprietors of the principal hotels. English-Speaking Nurses are sent to all parts of Italy for 5 to 7 fr. a dajq in addition to travelling expenses. Address, Lady Superintendent, St. Paul’s Home for Trained Nurses, 62 Via Palestro, Rome, or Pension Edel¬ weiss, St. Moritz, Engadine. Money. In Italy the coinage is now similar to the French, the lira being equivalent to the franc, and the centesimo to the centime. £1 =25 Ital. lire = 20 Ger. marks = 12| Aust. gulden (in paper). d^d. = 1 „ lira = i „ =50 Kr. 100 centesiini = 1 lira or 1 franc. Gold Coins (^very scarce). s. d. Pieces of 20 lire = 16 0 „ 10 „ = 8 0 55 5 ,, =40 Sdver Coins. s. d. Pieces of 5 lire =40 2 „ 1 71 1 lira = 0 01 50 centimes = 0 4^ 5 ? Introduction.'—Italy: Weights and Measures. [ 19 ] Copper Coins. s. d. Pieces of 10 centesimi = 01 ,, 5 ,, =0 0^ (commonly called uu soldo) Pieces of 2 centesimi = 0 0| ,, 1 centesimo =0 0^ These small coins are cliiefly used as tolls on crossing bridges. Several of the earlier issues of Silver having recently been declared obsolete (fuori di corso), the traveller should in general accept no coin of a date prior to 1862. Francs and Soldi bearing the Pope’s head are of no value, except as handsome coins. Bank-notes of 5, 10, 25, 50, and 100 lire, form the chief current money of Italy, there being practically no gold in circulation. In 1883 the com¬ pulsory bank-notes (a corso sforzoso) were recalled, and replaced by a new series {convertihile in moneto metallica), to meet which there is an abun¬ dant supply of silver. A few Napoleons may generally be obtained from any Banker or Money-Changer, by the traveller who is leaving Italy, at a small premium, or sometimes at par. Local Bank-notes should be avoided. Those of the Banca Nazionale, Banca di Napoli, Banca Romana, and Banca Toscana, will pass any¬ where. Circular Notes of lOZ. to 50Z. are issued by all the leading bankers, and are a very safe and convenient form of money for a long journey. The agents in the various towns cash them at the rate of exchange of the day, but English gold and 5Z. Bank of England notes are readily taken every¬ where. The exchange is often more favourable at a Money-Changers, whose sign is Camhio Volute. Many travellers now carry a Cheque-book of the Cheque Bank instead of Circular Notes. They may be obtained at 4, AVaterloo Place, Pall Mall, S.W. Throughout N. Italy no one should think of paying the price ashed for any article in the shops. Bargaining, unpleasant though it be, is usual, and is expected. The traveller should avoid also making an}- purchase, or even entering a shop, when accompanied by a commissionnaire or courrier, who will of course receive from the shopman a commission of 5 or 10 per cent, on the sum expended. Collectors of hric d hrac may be reminded that a tax of 20 per cent, is levied by the Italian Government on all antiquities taken out of the country. The traveller setting out to see sights should provide himself with ample store of coppers and half-franc pieces. Two soldi will satisfy the boy wdio runs to fetch the key ” and 4 or 5 is ample fov the Sacristano of a church. AVeights and Measures. In 1861 the decimal-metric system of AA^eights and Measures was adopted and legalized for the whole of Italy, the names of the weights and measures being Italianized. In this system the fundamental unit is the 3Ietro (identical with the French metre), which is the ten-millionth part of the earth’s meridian- quadrant. [ 20 ] Introduciion. — Italy: Post Office. From the Metro are derived the other units of measure and weight as follows:— Of measure of surface, the unit is the Ara, a square of ten Meiri; of that of capacity, the unit is the Litro, a cubic tenth part of a Metro ; of tliat of weight, the unit is the Oramma, the weight in vacuo of a cubic- hundredth part of a Metro of distilled water at the temperature of 4° Cen¬ tigrade or 39'2° Fahrenheit. Multiples and parts of these units are denoted by prefixes derived from the Greek and Latin respectively;—■ Prefixes denoting multiples are— Deca = 10 times Etto = 100 ,, Chilo = 1,000 „ Miria = 10,000 „ Prefixes denoting the parts are- Deci = the 10th part Centi — „ 100 th „ Mille = „ 1000th „ In Italy temperature is measured as in France by the Centigrade scale. Post Office; Lettees and Postage: Telegrams. Postage stamps (francoholli) can be purchased at most tobacconists’ shops as well as at the post-offices. A cautious traveller will take im¬ portant letters to the post-office himself, or drop them into some one of the letter boxes that are now distributed through an Italian town, since if given to an untrustworthy person to carry to the post-office they run the risk of being made away with for the sake of the stamps. Travellers cannot too much impress on their corresjiondents at home the necessity of writing the address with perfect legibility, especially those marked poste restante, which are frequently placed in the wrong compartment at the office from the difficulty of deciphering the first letter of the name. Much provoking delay and trouble are tliiis caused before the mistake is dis¬ covered. In addressing gentlemen it is best to omit the terminal Esq., and to prefix al Signor., or all illust^- Signor, to the name. On enquiring for letters at the Poste Eestante the production of a visiting card saves trouble. Italian Bates of Postage. Ordinary Letters. —For each 15 grainmi, 20 cents., throughout the Kingdom of Italy, including Sardinia and Sicily. Begistered I.etters{I^ettereraccomandate)m\xs>i be presented at the office at least an hour before the making up of the despatch. They are charged, in addition to the ordinary letter stamp, 25 c. In case of loss an indem¬ nity of 50 fr. can be claimed. Letters insured with a declaration of value. —The maximum value allowed is 5000 fr. ; such letters must first be registered, after which a tax at the rate of 20 c. on each 100 fr. of the declared value must be paid. Large sums of money are best transmitted by means of a Vaglia, which may be had gratis at the Banca Naziondle in any town. The traveller has nothing to do but fill in a paper, and leave his money with the Clerk. Post-effice Order is Vaglia Bostale. Introduction.—Italy: Sight-Seeing—Inns and Accommodation. [ 21 ] Manuscripts (uot being letters) and samples of merchandise may be sent prepaid from one part of Italy to another, at the following rates:— lip to 50 grammi for 20 c.; from 50 gr. to 500 gr., 40 c.; and from 500 to 1000 gr., 80 c.; and so on at the rate of 40 c. for each additional 500 or fraction. Samples of merchandise, however, of a greater weight than 300 gr. cannot be sent by post. Double these rates are charged it not prepaid. Newspapers in Italy are charged 1 c. for each 40 gr. or fraction. Letters to Great Britain and the Postal Union are charged at the rate of 25 c. for 15 gr. ( = 5 oz.). If registered, 25 c. extra. Manuscripts (not being letters) can be forwarded, properly secured but open at the sides, to Great Britain and the Postal Union at the rate of 5 c. for 50 gr. They can be registered (raccomandate) for 25 c. Printed Matter is Stampati; Proofs, Bozze di Stainpa. Post-cards to Great Britain and the Postal Union 10 c. Telegrams are charged to any part of Italy at the rate of one franc for fifteen words, including the names and addresses of the sender and receiver; each additional word, 5 c. Urgent despatch, three times as much. For France, 14 c. a word; England, 47 c.; Gibraltar, 53 c.; Malta, 33 c.; United States, 2 fr.; Canada, and most of the British Colo¬ nies in N. and S. America, 2 fr. 95 c.; India, 4 fr. 45 c. to 5 fr. 35 c. a word. Sight-seeing. At the best hotels in Genoa and Pisa, an English-speaking guide may be engaged by travellers who require his services. Churches, including Cathedrals, except one or two of the very largest, are usually closed from tiuelve to three ; and during this interval, when the sacristan takes his dinner and his nap, it is difficult to obtain admittance. When the days are long and the light sufficiently go^d, the early morning and the late afternoon are the best times for making a round of the Chapels. Between 7 and 9 a.m., or better still, between 6 and 8 , the traveller will find Chapels open, and works of art accessible, which it v\ill cost him an infinite amount of trouble to examine leisurely later in the day. The Sacristy is generally locked up after the last Mass, and not opened again until a comparatively late hour. It is always a useful preliminary to the examination of any city to obtain a bird’s-eye view of it from some Church tower. Inns and Accommodation. At Pisa, Genoa, Spezia, Alassio, San Eemo, and other health-resorts on the Italian Biviera, the hotels are comfortable and well kept. In all these places the resort of foreigners has enabled the proprietors to meet the expenses required for such establishments; but this, of course, cannot be the case in places which are not equally frequented, and here the traveller will very frequently have to content himself with the accommo¬ dation of a national or Italian inn. In Italian villages and smaller towns the traveller must not expect a choice and well-furnished larder. The stock of provisions is on the aver- [ 22 ] Introduction.—The Italian Biviera and Genoa. age but scanty, and tbe choice in this scanty stock limited. The wine, however, is often excellent. Two dishes are almost invariably good— the national minestra, or zuppa di pastine in hrodo (vermicelli broth), and bistecca ai ferri (broiled steak). Macaroni is pastine asciutte (dry, without the broth). Pudding is dolce ; cake, pasta. It is advisable, especially when the travelling party is large, to order rooms beforehand by letter or telegraph, the charge seldom exceeding oO c. The best hotels, though not cheap, are not extravagant, and, if any ladies are of the party, no house except a first-rate one should be used; but bachelor travellers may frequently be comfortably accommodated, and at a lower charge, at houses of a second grade. One great secret of keeping down bills is to avoid having anything out of the common way. The table d’hote (tavola rotonda'), common in the large towns, should be preferred. It is advisable to ask the price of bedrooms beforehand. In ordering dinner it is the best plan for the traveller to mention the price he will pay, with or without ordinary wine. This is termed dining a prezzo fisso. It is also safest and most satisfactory to order the wine of the country. If exorbitant charges be made, refuse to pay them, putting down a reasonable sum upon tbe table. In spite of the universal charge for attendance in the bill, servants always expect something extra, but are generally contented with very little. When dining at a Trattoria, 20 c. to the waiter is the usual fee, and 5 c. at a Cafe. It is desirable to examine hotel bills carefully before leaving, and insist upon objectionable extras being taken off or reduced. For this puiq^ose, the prudent traveller will order his bill over-night, so that he may not have to pay it in a hurried moment of departure. THE ITALIAN RIVIERA AND GENOA. Political Changes.—Character of the Country. —At the beginning of the present century the dominions of Sardinia on this coast consisted of the county of Nice (ceded to France by the Treaty of March 24, 1860), the principality of Oneglia, and some smaller districts; the remainder belonged to the republic of Genoa. The “ imperial fiefs ” in the interior were small feudal sovereignties; but they all belonged to Genoese nobles, and, though by law subject to the empire, still, politically speaking, they had no independent existence, and had become mere private domains. After the transitory duration of the Ligurian republic (1797), the whole was incorporated with the French Empire (1805). The Congress of Vienna transferred it to the King of Sardinia; and the House of Savoy thus not only regained their old possessions, but also obtained the terri¬ tories for which they had more than once struggled. A nominal existence had been given to the “ duchy of Genoa,” and the title of duke was taken by the sovereign; but the whole was politically united to the rest of the Sardinian states, though very distinct in its physical features and the national character of its population. Between the Var, fixed in the time Introduction.—The Italicin Ttiviera and Genoa. of Augustus as the boundary of Italy on the AV., and the Magra, tlic ancient boundary of Tuscany, the greater part of this territory is situated. A small district beyond the Magra, won by the Genoese from their ancient rivals of Lucca, and composing a part of the Tuscan Lunigiana, was retained by the Sardinian monarch as the successor of the republic. The country is a continued series of mountain ridges, valleys, and ravines, formed by the spurs of the Maritime AIjds and the Apennines. The breadth of the district, which is now denominated “ Maritime Liguria,” varies (always supposing the central ridge of the Maritime Alps and Apennines to form its N. limit) from 25 m. at Nice, to 5 m. between Arenzano and Yoltri, where the latter chain (at Monte Reisa) approaches nearest to the shores of the Mediterranean. The climate is most agreeable, the atmo¬ sphere remarkable for its transparency and purity. In several of the dis- tiicts on the seaside, which are protected from the N. and N.E. winds, the thermometer rarely falls below freezing-point; and hence the singular beauty of the vegetation, in which the botany of the temperate zone of the southern coasts of Europe, and of the northern coasts of Africa, is com¬ bined with that of warmer regions. When the ravines open into the mountains the sharp wind occasionally penetrates, and sometimes the winters are severe; but the olive rarely suffers, and this affords a test of the mildness of the climate. The transient variations of temperature, or perhaps some less perceptible cause, render pulmonary complaints common amongst the inhabitants of the Riviera; and the foreign invalid who resorts hither in search of health finds the natives mowed down by the disease from which he seeks to fly. The mountains abound in valuable marbles, furnishing many of those with which the palaces of Genoa are adorned. Liguria consists of the Provinces of Genoa and Porto Maurizio, and has a population of 919,185. Agricultuee. — Towns. —The special shelter afforded by the mountains to the terrace or strip at their base running along the Mediterranean shore produces a climate such as is not found again until you reach the latitude of Naples, Palermo, and Alicante. The consequence is that not only wheat, vines, and maize flourish, but oranges, lemons, aloes, and cactuses grow in the oj)en air; while the date-palm occurs not only singly, but at Bordighera in large groves. The chief source of wealth, however, is the olive, which is the prevailing tree, and is cultivated with great care. It requires assiduous watering and trenching to let in air to the roots, and once a year receives a manuring with old rags, of which the traveller becomes aware through the foul smell which fills the air at such times. The towns along the Mediterranean, from the A^ar to Genoa, forming the Riviera di Ponente, appear strikingly picturesque and beautiful from the sea; but, on entering them, with the exception of those which strangers have enriched, dirt and discomfort, a want of all that we consider con¬ venient within doors, dilapidation and a general absence of completeness without and within, are their ordinary characteristics. Improvement is, however, making advances. The chief ports are Spezia, Genoa, Savona, and Porto Maurizio. Roads. —At the beginning of the present century there were only two roads practicable for carriages, and those but indifferent—the road from Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda, and that from Alessandria to Genoa over the Pass of La Bocchetta; all the others were mountain paths, some [24] Introduction.—The Italian Biviera and Genoa. of which could not be crossed, even on mules. The Cornice road which connects France with Central Italy was planned and executed as far as Mentone by Napoleon I., but was coinjdcted by the Sardinian Government, together with many other carriage-roads by which the traffic of the country is carried on, and to which its ra|.id improvement is to be in part attributed. Character of the Population. —The Ligurian tribes were amongst the last of the inhabitants of Italy incorporated in the Roman Empire. We are not acquainted with the government and constitution of the people prior to that event; it seems probable, however, that, being Celts, they constituted a confederacy of clans and tribes bound by their own laws and customs, but not acknowledging any common head or superior. Having allied themselves to the Carthaginians, the Romans, after the second Punic war, assailed them with eighty years’ hostility, and they were for a time rendered obedient; yet they were not finally subjugated until conqueretl by Augustus, who commemorated his triumph by the remarkable trophy of which the ruins are still existing at Turbia. By him—or, at least, during his reign—the Alps became the limits of Italy. But this coneiuest did not break up the nationality, nor indeed the government, of the Ligurian states. They continued to retain their identity, though under Roman supremacy ; and this corporate succession (as in the large cities of the south of France) was continued, in a great measure, until the great European revolution of the nineteenth century. Thus Noli, Savona, Albenga, San Remo, Porto Maurizio, and Ventimiglia, were rather the allies than the subjects of Genoa; and even much smaller communities enjoyed a species of independence. The inhabitants of this coast possess a very decided national character, and present all the physical characteristics of a pure and unaltered race, excepting at Genoa, where there appears to have been a considerable mixture of Lombard blood. From the earliest period the Ligurians have been a nation of sailors and merchants. Mago the Carthaginian reduced the city of Genoa b.c. 205. The ancestors of Doria and of Columbus were distinguished by their apt¬ ness for maritime enterprise. In the middle ages Genoa alone vied with Venice; and at the present day she has recovered her ancient commercial prosperity, and far surpasses her rival of the Adriatic. Fine Arts. —Little is known respecting the arts of Genoa in the middle ages. There are Roman remains at Cimiez, near Lice; others exist at 'J'urbia, at Ventimiglia, and at Albenga; but the ancient masters of the world have left few traces of their domination in Liguria. The “ Gothic ” architecture of the country is of a peculiar character, and, in Genoa at least, exhibits more orientalism than perhaps in any other part of W. Europe. But, in the sixteenth century, architecture burst out in Genoa with splendour. The palaces of Genoa exhibit fine specimens of domestic architecture. Oaleazzo Alessi (1500-1572), by whom the best of them were designed, gave the impulse which continued till the last century, when the art declined, giving way to extravagant decoration. HANDBOOK FOR TEAVELLEES ON THE EIVIEEA. SECTION I. 'ITJE FHENCII HIVIERA, The uames of iiluecs are printed in black only in tlioae Uoutes where thej//ncco are described. LIST OF EOUTES. JdJlITF PAGE 1. Paris to Marsoiiles, liv Sens, on, Macon, Lyons. N'ienne, Valence, Orang'e, Avignon, and Arles . . . . ~ . "1 2. IMarseilles to IMeutone, by Toulon, Frejus, St. Kaphael, Cannes, Nice, and Monte Carlo.12 d. IMarseilles to HyM’es, by Toulon.d 1 ROUTE rA(;E 4. Hyercs to Si. Eajiliacl, Ity St. I'ropez.3G 0 . Cannes to Frejus, by the Esterel Mountains . . . d7 6. Cieneva to Marseilles, by Aix- les-Baius, Grenoble, Meyrar- gues, and Aix-en-Provence . dS 7. Grenoble to Nice, by Digne . 4d 8. IMeyrargues to Nice, by Dra- guignan and Grasse . . . 41 n JUcira. 9 Botite 1 .—Paris to Marseilles. EOUTES. ROUTE 1. PAEIS TO MARSEILLES, BY SENS, DIJON, MACON , LYONS, VIENNE, VALENCE, ORANGE, AVIGNON, AND ARLES. Miles. Stations. Routes. Paris 61 ... 11 14 Brunoy 28 Melun 37 Fontainebleau 6 -10 Thomery 42 Moret 1) 50 Montereau h 63 Pont-sur-Yonne 71 Sens b 85 St. Julien-du-Sault 91 Joigny 97 Laroche 5 12 Pontigny 20 Chablis 108 St. Florentin 123 Tonnerre h 128 Tanlay 137 Ancy-le-Franc 146 Aisy 152 Montbard 161 Les Laumes h 166 Darcey 175 Verrey 180 Blaisy-Bas 197 Dijon 6 208 Vougeot 211 Nuits 220 Beaune h 230 Chagny h 239 Chalon h 255 Tournus 275 Maconb. ... 11 290 BelleviUe 306 St. Germain-au-Mont- d’Orb 317 Lyon-Vaise 320 Lyon-Perrache b 340 Vienne 358 St. Rambert d’Albon b 375 Tain 387 Valence b 397 Livron b f At places marked thus, with the letter b, there is a Buffet at the Ely. Stat. Miles. Stations. Routes. 414 Montelimar b 447 Orange 464 Avignon b . . . 15 Llsle-sur-Sorgue 21 Cavaillonb 478 Tarascon b 486 Arles b 4 Montmajor 9 Paradou 492 Raphele 507 Miramas b 510 St. Chamas 523 Rognac b 8 Roquefavour 17 Aix b 528 Pas des Lanciers 540 Marseilles b . . 2, 3, 6 Sleeping Cars ( Fa^ons-?iYs) and Saloon Cars ( Vagons-salons) are attached to certain trains (trains de luxe) during the season. Apply at the Sleeping Car Office, 3, Place de I’Opffi’a, Paris. The 8.55 A.M. Rapide from Paris to Mar¬ seilles carries a Vagon Restaurant. The P.L.M. Rly. Co. allow travellers over a distance of 250 m. to stop for 24 hrs., and over 500 m. 48 hrs., at any place they choose along the line, with¬ out taking fresh tickets. Terminus at Paris in the Boulemrd Diderot. 14 m. Brunoy (1500). Viaduct 400 yds. long, and 105 ft. high, over the YM'es. Fine view. 28 m. Melun (13,000).re¬ stored Church of Notre Dame (M. H.) has two good Romanesque towers and tran¬ septs of the 10th cent.; vault of the nave 13th. The 14th cent. Church of St. Aspais (M. H.) is lofty, with double aisles, an elaborate vault, and some fine painted glass. The Rly. runs through the forest to t This mark indicates that practical in¬ formation about Hotels, &c., will be found in the Index and Directory. lioiite 1 .— Fontainebleau — St. Florentin. o7 m. Fontainebleau (14,ooo).s^ riie Palace is open daily from 11 to 4 in winter, or 5 in summer. Entrance under the horseshoe stairs. In the Chapelle de la Sainte Trinite Napoleon III. was christened in 1810. The Galerie de Frangois I. has a roof of walnut-wood, walls richly panelled, and frescoes by II Rosso, a Florentine, and his scholars. One of Danae is attributed to Primaticcio. In the Appartements de Rapolcon I. is the little round ma¬ hogany table at which Napoleon, in 1814, signed his abdication. His bed¬ room remains nearly as he left it. The Salle du Bal, or Galerie de Henri II., has restored paintings by Primaticcio (1570), and his pupil, Hic- colo dell’ Ahbate (1571). The Forest of Fontainebleau covers an area of about 42,000 Eng. acres (50 m. round). The Croix du Grand Veneur ; the Gorge de Franchard and Hermitage, a region of open heath and rock ; and the Bosquet du Roi, near which are the oldest trees, may be seen in a drive of two hours. The Gorge d'Apremont re¬ quires another hour. Best general view from the Tour Denecourt, I hr. N. of the Stat. The Rly. now crosses a curved Via¬ duct, 66 ft. high. 40 m. Thomery, Fine vintage grapes (^Chasselasde Fontainebleau^,\,o the annual value of 600,000 fr., are grown here. 42 m. Moret (2000).^ Church of the 12th to 15th cent.; 12th cent, modernized keep. Two Gothic town- gates. Great curve, and viaduct of 30 arches, 66 ft. high, over the Loing. 50 m. Montereau (7748),at the confluence of the Seine and Yonne. Church (M. H.) of the 13th to 15th cent., with double aisles. Fine view from the Chateau de Sur- ville. 63 m. Pont-sur-Yonne, with a fine 13th cent. Church. 71 m. Sens (14,300).s^ 3 The restored Cathedral of St. Etienne (M. H.) is one of the finest of its style Transition from the circular to the Gothic; founded in 972, rebuilt in the 12th cent., finished in 1168, and in¬ teresting to the English, as being in all probability the parent of the choir of Canteibury Cath., whose builder was William of Sens, 7 years later. The W. portals are very fine, almost classic in their sculpture. The nave chapels and clerestory windows date from the 13th cent, the painted glass (13th to 16th cent.) was partly executed by Jean Cousin. The Treasury contains several very interesting relics of Thomas a Lecket, an ivory coffer, and tapes¬ tries of wonderful execution, probably Flemish. The Officialite (M. H.), a large build¬ ing to the rt. of the Cathedral, was built in the reign of St. Louis, and re¬ stored in 1860. Within is the fine Salle Sgnodale, with room for 800 priests. St. Savinien (M. H.), in a remote quarter to the E., is of the 12th cent., badly restored. Museum, in the Garden of the Hotel de Ville, 85 m. St. Julien. 13th cent. Church (M. H.), with good 16th cent, glass. 91 m. Joigny (6500)^ on the Yonne. The old town contains three Gothic Churches— St. Jean, St. Andre, and St. Thibault. 97 m. Laroche Junct., where the Canal of Burgundy enters the Yonne. [Rly. S.E. to VIsle Angely, passing the Abbaye de Pontigny, the retreat of Thomas a Becket during his exile (1164-6). The Church (1150-70) is in a severe style of early or transition Burgundian Gothic, except the 13th cent, choir. It is said to be the only Church remaining perfect of the Cistercian Order. Fur¬ ther on is Chablis, celebrated for its white wines.] 108 m. St. Florentin, 15th cent. Church (M. H.), with good painted glass and a curious double staircase. B 2 4 Route 1 .— Tonnerre — Nuits. 123 m. Tonnerre (5100).s^ The Church of S . rierrc (M. H.) commands a fine view of the town from its rocky platform. 128 m. Tanlay. Fine Renaissance Chateau. 137 m. Ancy le Franc (1772). Cha¬ teau begun in 1555, from designs of Frvnaticcio, and decorated with frescoes by him and Niccolb dell' Ahbate. 14G m. Aisy, near the very curious ruins of the Chateau, de Rochefort (1500). 152 m. Montbard (2700).^ Birth¬ place of the naturalist Buffon (1707-88). [3 m. from Montbard is the Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay (M. II.), founded in 1118, with plain Church, chapter-house, and cloisters.] 161 m. Les Launies. 4 m. E. is the Chateau do Russy, founded in the 12th cent. 175 m. Verrey. [5 m. K.E. are the SouncKS OF THE Seine.] 180 m. Blaisy Bas. The Tunnel of Rlaisif (4480 yds.) cost more than 10 million francs. Within it is the summit- level of the line (1330 ft.), on the water¬ shed between the Seine and the Saone. Numerous other tunnels, deep cuttings, and viaducts succeed. 197 m. DIJON (66,000) is a forti¬ fied town of great importance, 800 ft. above the sea. The Wine Trade of Upper Burgundy is concenti*ated here. The Place Darcy, near the Stat., loads through the Forte Guillaume to the ancient Balace of the Dukes of Burgundy (M. II.), now the Hotel de Ville, begun in 1366, but almost completely modern¬ ised. On the 1st floor is the Museum, one of the finest in France. Entrance from the Place Rameau, on the E. side. In the Guard-room are the very re¬ markable tombs of Phillitpe le IIardi (1404), by Claus Sluter^ and Jean-sans- Peur (1419), by Jehan de la Verta. By his side is his consort, Margaret of Bavaria. The adjoining Gallery of Paintings has some works by Fassajw, Chardin, iJomenichino, Luini, Faolo Veronese, and Tintoretto. In the courtyard at the E. end of the building rises the Tour de Bar, opposite the old Kitchen of the Dukes of Bur¬ gundy. Adjoining is a museum of Roman Antiquities. The Palais de Justice is close to the Place d’Armes. At the back of the FI. de Ville is the Church of Notre Dame, in the purest Burgundian Gothic (1220-1230). The W. front has beautiful arcades, grotesque gurgoyles, and a curious clock. Further W., nearer the Rly. Stat., is the restored Cathedral of St. Benigne, very simple in plan, with a 14th cent, nave and a 13th cent, choir. The Cours du Parc, an avenue f m. long, leads to a spacious Park. The Monument of Oct. 30th, at the E. end of the town, was erected to tlie memory of the French soldiers who fell at Dijon (1870-71). ^ m. N.E. of the Stat. is a bronze Statue of St. Bernard (1091-1153), born at Fontaine, near the town. Opposite the Rly. Stat. is the Jardin Botanique, with a small Fluseum of Natural History, and a fine black poplar 130 ft. high. 10 min. further W. is the Asile des Alienes, formerly the Chartreuse, con¬ taining the Puits de Moise (1399), by Claus Sluter (copy in the Museum). The train now skirts the chain of hills which form the celebrated Cote d'Or, where the best Burgundy wines are produced. 208 m. Vougeot, whose Clos (enclo¬ sure) produces the prince of Burgundy wines. 211 m. Nuits (3656). [7 m. E. is the celebrated Abbaye de Citeaux, where St. Bernard assumed the cowl in 1108.] ROUTE FROM PARIS TO MARSEILLES sw 'X Lorukm. John Mumiy. Aihrmario Street . 4 « Uoute 1 .— Beaune — Lyons. 220 m. BEAUNE (12,400),S^ one of the chief seats of the Burgundy wine trade. The Church of Notre Dame (M. H.), early 12th cent., has a grand open porch (13th cent.). The Hospital (1443), almost in its original state, is a picturesque building, and contains a Last Judgment, by Roger V. dcr Weyden. 230 m. Chagny (4600).^ 12th cent. Cliurch tower. 7 m. W. is Rochepot, with a fine 13th cent, ruined Chateau. 239 m. CHALON-sur-Sa6iie(23,000).s^ The restored Church of St. Vincent (M. H.) is of the 12th to 14th cent. I I 2,55 m. TOURNUS (5300),with some I characteristic mediajval houses and a A-ery interesting Abbey Church of St. I Philibert (M, H.), 11th and 12th cent. Here was born the painter Greuze (1725- ; 1805). 275 m. Macon (20,ooo).s^ i Of the old Cathedral (M. IL), only the W. front and a portion of the Ro¬ manesque towers remain. Not far off, in the Place de PHerberie, is a remark¬ able AAmoden House-front, j In the Hotel de Ville is a Museum. I i\Iacon is the centre of a great trade in Av’ine. 290 m. Belleville (3261), Avith a I curious Church (M. IL), of the 12th I cent. I 'flirough pretty scenery, tlie Saone jiasses under the richly-Avooded heights of Mont d’Or. I 320 m, Lyon Perrache. Dressing- rooms (cabinets de toilette), 50 c. Lyons (402,OOO),^ the second city of France, the chief seat of its silk manu¬ factures, is (560 ft.) strikingly situated at the junction of the Rhone and the Saone. Fine AueAV from the Heights of Fourviere. A Rope Railway of steep gradients runs a train eA^ery 7 m. from a small Stat. opposite the Pont de 5 Tilsit to Avithin 10 min. of the summit (10 c.). _ The pilgrimage Church of N. D. de Fourviere is oA^erladen with incono-ruous ornament. The Lyonnais call it an Elephant on its back, in allusion to the clumsy pinnacles at the corners (1872- 81). The Cathedral (M. H.) dates from the 12th to the 15th cent. With the exception of some classical details, copied from Autun, and the later Avindows of the clerestory, the Avhole of the interior is of the finest Early Pointed date. Each transept has a large AAdieel windoAV. The painted glass, of the 13th and 14th cent., restored, is remarkably line. Opposite the W. front is a pretty little modern Fountain. Adjoining the Cathedral is the 11th cent, front of the Singing School, Avith a fine Romanesque arcade. On the quai, a little above the cathe¬ dral, is the handsome Palais de Justice. The Hotel de Ville (1646 to 1702) has been com]Jetely restored. The oblong Place des Terreaux in Avhich it stands Avas the scene of the execution, in 1642, of Cinq IMars and De Thou. The Palais des Arts contains Mu¬ seums of Painting, Sculpture, Natural History, and Antiquities. Picture Gallery on the 2nd floor. Andrea del Sarto: Sacrifice of Isaac. Diirer: Virgin and Child (old copy, original at Prague). Ferugino : Ascension—SS. Herculanus and James. On the 1st floor are four good mosaic paA^ements, and the Museum of An¬ tiquities. In a side room are the Bronze Tables containing the speech made by Claudiiis, Avhen Censor, in the senate (a.d. 48). The Museum op Natural History is extensiAm and admirably arranged. The Library, also on the 1st floor, contains 50,000 Amis, and about 40,000 enwraA'lngs and orio-inal draAvings. On the 2nd floor of the Palais de la Bourse et du Commerce is a Museum of Arts and Industry. It contains speci¬ mens of silk manufacture, Avith beau¬ tifully executed models of looms and machinery. 6 JRoute 1 .— Vien7ie — O^'ange. The Bibliotheque Publique, in the Lyc^e, is the best provincial collection in France. It contains 2400 manu¬ scripts, and about 200,000 printed volumes. In the large Place Bellecour is a bronze equestrian Statue of Louis XIV. At No. 31 is the so-called Musee de la Propagation de la Foi, containing relics and instruments of torture. A little E. of the Pont d’Ainay is the restored Church of St. Martin d’Ainay (M. H.), a very remarkable monument of Pagan and Christian antiquity (10th and 11th cent.). The Parc de la Tete d’Or, laid out and planted in 1856, contains a lake, a zoological garden, and many fine trees. At its entrance is the monument of the Children of the Rhone, a bronze group ei’ected in memorv of the events of 1870-71. There are nine Bridges over the Rhone and thirteen over the Saone. There are no silk fiictories here; the master merely buys the raw material, and sends it to factories in the country, many miles distant. The only place where looms may be seen at work is the Office of CarquUlat, 8, Rue dTsly. 340 m. VIENNE (25,500),^ on the 1. bank of the Rhone, one of the most ancient towns in France, having been a flourishing place before Lyons existed, and the cradle of Christianity in the West. The chief Roman building is a Corin- thian Temple (M. H.), in a square W. of the market-place. On the slopes of Mont Pipet the seats of a Roman Theatre may be traced among the vineyards, and there is Roman masonry in the Castle. Striking view. The Cathedral of St. Maurice (M. H.). The pillars of the choir, and the E. end, with the fine lancets in the apse, date from 1245. The central portion is older. Immediately S. is the chapel of 8t. Theodore, with a beautiful doorway. The Romanesque tower of St. Andre le Bas (M. H.) is a curious relic of 1152. To the S., near the river, is the desecrated Church of St. Pierre (M. H.), with a good 12th cent, tower. The interior is probably of the 5th cent. In the modern Hotel de Ville is a small Museum of Roman antiquities. Half a mile S. of the Rly. Stat., to the rt. of the road to Valence, on the Plan d’Aiguille, is a Roman obelisk, 65 ft. high. The valley of the Rhone is narrowed to a ])ass, by rocks projecting on either side, on approaching Tain. To the 1. rises the celebrated vineyard of UEr- mitaye. 375 m. Tain (2892), with an altar of the 2nd cent, in the principal square. In clear weather on the 1. may be seen hlont Blanc, rising above the Alps of Daiq^hine. 387 m. VALENCE (24,200).S^ The Cathedral of St. Apollinaire (M. H.) is of the 12th cent. On the N. side is a singular Mausoleum, known as the Pendentif, of classical architec¬ ture (1548). The Church of St. Jean Baptiste has an Early Pointed porch and tower. There is a small Museum, and a Town Library. In the Grande Rue, leading out of the Place aux Clercs, is the liaison des Tetes, a very rich specimen of 16th cent. work. [3 m. N.W. (omn. 25 c.) is St. Peray, famed for its sparkling wine.] 447 m. GRANGE (11,000).S^ The Triumphal Arch (M. H.), just outside the town, on the road to Valence, is handsome and well-preserved. The re¬ liefs with which it is adorned represent chiefly naval trophies, but its date and dedication are unknown. The Roman Theatre (M. H.) stands at the foot of a hill, whose side was excavated into semicircular ranges of seats. It is 118 ft. high, 104 yds. long, and 13 ft. thick. It is formed of huge blocks, fitted accurately together with¬ out cement. Adjoining it are scanty remains of a Circus, or hippodrome. 464 m. Avignon (41,000),S^ ancient Boiite 1 .— Avignon — St. Bemy. city of the Popes, is seated on the 1. bank of the Rhone, a little above the influx of the Durance, and is still en¬ circled by lofty mediaeval Walls (re¬ stored), flanked by 39 watch-towers of the 14th cent., very perfect and pic¬ turesque. The vast Palace of the Popes (M. H.), now used as barracks, is open to visitors by permission of the Commandant (apply at the H. de Ville). Its walls are 100 ft. high. It was commenced by Clement V., and continued by Benedict XII. in 1336. Above the entrance is the Balcony, from which the popes bestowed their benediction. A wide vaulted and finely groined stone staircase, under a de¬ pressed arch, on the rt. hand. The Salle du Consistoire, was painted by Simone Martini in 1339. The thickness of the walls throughout is very re¬ markable. Within the massive square Tower of St. John is the Pope’s Chapel, and above it the vaulted Chapel of the In¬ quisition, both painted in fresco by Simone Marlini and his scholars. There is a Chamber of Torture (Salle de la Question), and an Oubliette. A flight of steps cut in the rock leads down to the dungeon, the prison of Rienzi iinder Clement VI. Six popes, all Frenchmen, reigned at Avignon from 1305 to 1376, and three anti-popes from 1378 to 1424. The Promenade des Dorns, a hill ‘‘dominating” the town and river, should be ascended for the view. Here is the Cathedral (M. H.), chiefly of the 11th cent., founded on the rock. In the portico are some faded frescoes. Within is the Gothic Tomb of John XXII. (1334). Benedict XII. (1342) has a jdainer monument in a large K. chapel. There is a very ancient altar, and a Papal Throne in white marble (12th cent.). The Musee Calvet, containing nu¬ merous antiqiiities, coins, and medals. There is also a Library of 110,000 vols. The Musee Requien has some valuable specimens in Natural History. John Stuart Mill died here in 1873. His tomb, a white marble sarcophagus, is in the neighbouring Cemetery. The broken Bridge of St. Benezet 7 (1178-88) is a magnificent specimen of masonry. [Rly. E. to VIsle-sur-Sorgue. Omn. thence to (5 m.) Vaucluse.S^ A path leads in 10 min. to the fountain, whence the sparkling Sorgue derives its supplies. All around rise walls of yellow rock from 500 to 600 ft. high. The village Church (M. H.) is of the 11th cent., and contains the tomb of St. Veran. On a ledge halfway up, to the rt., is perched a Castle. The site occu])ied by Petrarch’s house, now covered by a paper-manu- factorv, is between the castle and the village. According to the season, and the abundance of the water, the source takes the form of a gushing cataract, or a quiet, dark-blue pool. At Cavaillon (9200) is a Roman Arch of Triumph, and a Cathedral (M. H.), 12th to 13th cent., with a magnificent 11th cent. Cloister. The main line crosses the wide bed of the Durance. 478 m. TARASCON (9500),on the 1. bank of the Rhone. The Church of Ste. Marthe (M. H.) is of the 14th cent., with an earlier S. portal. In the Crypt is the shrine and tomb of St. Martha, with her legend in a series of reliefs. The picturesque Chateau, now a prison, can only be seen with an order from the authorities at the H. de Ville. [Rly. S.W. to (18 m.) Nimes,S^ cele¬ brated for its Amphitheatre, well pre¬ served Roman Temple (Maison Carre'e), and Fountain of the NymjJis, beautifully situated in the Public Gardens. Rly. also N.W. to the (17 m.) Po7it du Card, the finest of Roman Viaducts, 160 ft. high, and | m. in length.] [A narrow-gauge line runs to 10 m. St. Remy (5900), remarkable for two well-preserved Roman buildings, m. S. of the town, a sepulchral Monu¬ ment, about 50 ft. high, and a Tri¬ umphal Arch in hexagonal sunk panels, with reliefs of captives. 6 m. S. is Les Baux (see below).] 8 Monte 1 .— Arles — Marseilles. 486 m, Arles (24,000).S^ The Eoman Amphitheatre (M. H.), 459 ft. by 341 ft., was capable of holding 25,000 spectators. It is therefore larger than that of Mines, but by no means so well preserved, owing its devastation to human hands rather than to time. The three square towers were raised in the 8th cent., either by the Saracens or by Charles Martel, who expelled them from the city in 739. The Eoman Theatre (M. H.) retains two Corinthian columns of the Prosce¬ nium and some stone seats. It was 113 yds. in breadth, and could have held about 16,000 spectators. In the middle are curious substructions. In the Place de la Eepublique rises an Obelisk (M. H.) of grey granite from the quarries of the Esterel: it differs in shape from those of Egypt, tapering more rapidly. It is 47 ft. high, and was found in the mud of the Rhone. The Museum contains an interesting collection of ancient Roman remains. The Cathedral (IM. H.) is entered by a very curious projecting PoRCii (12th cent.). The lofty nave is A'ery plain and severe, but the cloisters on the S. side are extremely interesting; two of the sides (12th cent.) haA^e round arches, and two (13th cent.) pointed. On the S. side of the town is the ancient Cemetery, still called Aliscamps {Elisii Campi). ■ [Rly. E. to Montmajor, Avhere is a A’ery curious Abbey Church (12th and 13th cent.). Thence to i Paradou. 3 m. N. is the fortified and deserted mediceval toAvn of Les Baux (600 ft.), heAvn out of the solid limestone rock, Avhich no antiquary or artist should omit to visit.J 492 m. Eaphele. Here begins the Crau, a singular stony plain of 30,000 acres, the “ campus lapideiis,” or Cravus, of the ancients. 510 m. St. Chamas (2667), overlook¬ ing the long Etang de Berre. Viaduct of 49 arches, 85 ft. high and 421 yds. in length. To the rt. of it is seen the Pont Flavien (M. H.), a Roman bridge, approached by Corinthian arches. 523 m. Eognac. [Rly. ME. to Air, passing Bor/ne- favour, Avhere is the remarkable Viaduct of the Canal (1839-49), which carries Avater to Marseilles from the Durance. It consists of three tiers of arches, 12, 15, and 23, one above the other. Height, 262 ft.; length, 429 yds.; total cost, 151,394/. sterling. The Aqueduct it¬ self foils 614 ft. in 54 tortuous miles, and cost 2,080,000.^. sterling.] The main line continues S.E. to 528 m. Pas des Lanciers, beyond Avhich is a tunnel 3 m. in length, the longest in France, Avhich cost 400,000/. 540 m. MARSEILLES (380,000), capital of the Dept, des Bouclies-du- Rhoue, and the most floiirishing sea¬ port of France, ranking after Paii.s and Lyons in size. It is also a hand¬ some city in a beautiful situation, and, excepting Paris, no toAvn in France has been more improved since 1853, by the creation of streets, harbours, and public edifices. Tramways run along tlie principal streets, and through tiie attractive suburbs. Frojn the Triumphal Arch in the Place cl’Aix (C. 3), erected to com¬ memorate the French campaign in Spain of 1823, a broad avenue tra¬ verses the city, N. and S., leading to the Prado. Another wide thorough¬ fare, consisting of the Rues de la Cannebiere (Kaprafiis, hemp: it Avas once a rope-walk) and de Noailles, runs down to the Vieux Port or Harbour, a natural oblong basin 1000 yards by 330, occupying an area of 75 acres, about equal to two of the docks at Liverpool. To this harbour Marseilles is indebted for her com¬ mercial consequence, Avhich dates nearly 3000 years back, from the days Avhen the Phocaeans set foot on her shore, conveying to the barbarous in¬ habitants of W. Europe the civilisation of the East. In recent times the con¬ nection of France Avith Algiers has I I -Route 1 .— Marseilles: Harhoiir. 9 given ca great impetus to the prosperity of Marseilles, as it engrosses nearly the whole trade with the African colony. It has risen also to considerable im¬ portance since 1830 as a sleam-packet station. From the animated quays Avhich line the Harbour the ground rises on all sides, covered with houses, forming an amphitheatre, behind which is an en¬ circling chain of hills. On its N. side lies the uninteresting old town of narrow streets. The modern Hue de la He'puhliqne threads the labyrinth. Near the harbour’s mouth is the Sante, or health office (adm. 50 c.). The council-room contains a few paint¬ ings having reference to the Plague at INIarseilles : Bishop Belzuncc adminis¬ tering the Sacrament, by Gerard ; the Chevalier Rose burying the dead, wlien even the galley-slaves had refused to do so, by Gne'rin; St. Roch healing the Sick, by David; a fine marble relief, by Pierre Puget, of tbe Plague at Milan; the Cholera at Marseilles ; and the Plague ship, l;»y Horace Vernet, The Exchange {Bourse), a handsome building with a Corinthian poidico, near the Yieux Port (D. .3), was erected in 1852-GO. In front is a Statue of Pierre Puget (1622-91). A fountain surmounted by a bust of Homer, in the Rue d’Aubagne (D. 3), bears this inscription : “Les Phoceens reconnais- sants a Homere, 1803.” The mouth of the old port, 105 yds. across, is defended on the N. by the castle and tower of St. Jean (14th cent.), in which Philippe Egalite was imprisoned with his son. On the S. is Fort St. Nicolas, built by Louis NIV., who, after capturing the dis¬ obedient city, and entering it by a breach in the walls, observed that “ he also would have a Bastile at Mar¬ seilles” (see below). H.vrboue.— The Bassin de la Joliette is formed by a breakwater raised in the sea, parallel with the shore, and enclosing also four smaller wet docks, separated l»y projecting i)iers with ( openings to allow vessels to pass. The others are the Bassins du Lazai'et, d’Arenc, de la Care Maritime, ami National. This series of basins occupies ji length of upwards of a mile, with a water width of 450 yds. The Joliette, the mo.st southern, is the rendezvous of the P. and O. and other big Steamers. It has an extent of 55 acres. At its N.E. corner is the Custom House. This dock accommodation affords harbour space of 340 acres, while Liverpool has 1000 acres of docks. The quays in the new docks measure 3100 yds.: alongside the Bassins, but separated by the road, are the Bonded Warehouses, a maguificent pile of buildings 400 yds. long, and of G stories, exclusive of the vaults beneath. They cost a million sterling, and are the finest of the kind in Euro]m. They are chiefiy used as depots fur grain, in which consists tlie chief commerce of Marseilles. In the Place de I’Eveche is a bronze Statue of the good bishop Belzunce (1671-1755), who offered a rare ex- amifie of courage and piety by his intrepid intercourse with the sick in the hospitals during the fearful Plague of 1720, which carried off u])- wards of 40,000 per,sons—half the population. On the Quai, near the Bassin do la Joliette, stands the vast modern Cathe¬ dral, designed by the late IM. Vaudoyer, It is in a mixed Byzantine style, with twin W. towers and a central doiiK*, and is built in courses of white ami grey stone. It is 4G0 It. long, with a vault 82 ft. high, and cost 280,000/. A steam ferry-boat (1 sou) ])li('S across the Old Harbour to the Quai above which stands St. Victor, the most ancient church of IMarseillcs ; its crypts and substructions are of the Util cent. The crypt leads into a side chapel with tombs cut in the rock. Here Lazarus is said to have been buried. The upper Church dates from 1200, except the tw'o battlemented towers (1350), which give it the air of a castle. 'I'he entrance under the tower is by a round arch: near it is 10 'Route 1 .— Marseilles: Museum. a curious pointed arch, its mouldings relieved v’itli the dog-tooth orna¬ ment. Above St. Victor rises the bare rocky hill of *N. D. de la Garde, on the summit of vhich is a capacious Eomanesque Church, vrith campanile 165 ft. high, built in 1861, and reached by Funicular Ely. The Upper Church, lined with costly marble, has over the altar a silver statue of the Virgin, but the original image in olive-wood, and of great antiquity, is in the crypt below. It is held in the highest veneration throughout the Mediter- rauean by sailors and fishermen and their wives, and the walls and roof are hung with ex-votos, ostrich-eggs, models ot ships, cast-otf crutches, the gifts of grateful cripples, and roj^es’ ends by which men have been saved from drowning. There are also many grotesque pictures of escape from water and fire. Magnificent *view. Con¬ spicuous on the hill-sides are the white country-houses, called Bastides, to the number of 5000 or 6000, belonging to the citizens. Monte Cristo, well known from Dumas’s novel, is also visible. In the Gulf is a little group of islands, the nearest and smallest of which, the (2 m.) lie d'lf, is crowned by a Castle, once a state prison, in which Mirabeau was shut up; further oflf are Pomegue and Eatonneau, connected by a break¬ water to form the Port de Frioul, under which vessels in quarantine ride. Here probably was tMeFreturn Julium, where Caesar’s fleet of galleys under D. Brutus was stationed during the siege of Marseilles. (Steamer to the Chateau d’lf on Sun., 75 c. Boat according to bargain.) The descent from X. D. de la Garde may be made due N. to the Promenade Pierre Puget, a pretty garden at the W. end of the Fours, which bears the same name. Here is a small Cascade, formed by one of the reservoirs of the Aqueduct. Upon an ancient Column from Aix has been placed a bust of Puget. On the headland W. of Fort St. Kicolas, commanding the S. entrance to the port, a marine villa, now the Hospital of Chateau du Pharo, was built for the late Emperor Napoleon IH. A splendid Cornice road (Chemin de Ceintnre'), commanding fine sea-views, runs from the back of this villa along the shore, past the Anse des Catalans, skirting the base of the hill, and con¬ tinuing round the city until it joins the *Prado, a handsome and very agreeable public walk and drive, a prolongation of the Eue de Eome. At the S. extremity of the Prado, on the sea, are the park and grounds of the Chateau Borely, the Bois de Boulogne of Mars<.illes, 2h m. from the Place d’Aix. The Chateau is converted into a Museum of Antiquities. —It con¬ tains the few relics of antiquity which remain of Massilia (see below), a few Phmnician and Greek inscriptions, sarcophagi, mostly of the 5th, 6th, and 7th centuries, fragments of sculpture, and some tombs, discovered in making the Eue de la Eepublique. Among the antiques are a rude Phoenician statue in a niche; a draped torso of a female with a child, wearing a peaked cap of Greek workmanship ; a marble sarcophagus brought from Arles, with a combat of Centaurs ; several Christian sarcophagi, for the most part from the crypt of St. Victor; one of marble, designed for a child, contained the relics of St. Victor; another, of Abbot Isarn (1018), whose effigy is covered with his epitaph in Latin verses, allowing only the head and feet to appear. The grand ’•'Palais de Longchamp (D. 2), completed by Fspeyandieu, 1870, consists of two buildings con¬ nected by an open colonnade, forming a handsome semicircular facade, and enclosing the Chateau d'Eau of the Aqueduct which brings water into Marseilles from the Durance (see above). In front is a handsome Cas¬ cade, and a colossal group of the Durance between Corn and IVine, by Cavelier. On the 1. is the Picture Gallery. — The best paint- n Bouts 1 .— Marseilles: History. ings arc St. Jolm, in the Isle of Patinos ; a copy after Jtaphael, ascribed to Andrea del Sarto. The *Pamily of St. Anne; or, the Infant Saviour with his five cousins, by rerugino. Ihibens (perhaps Jordaens) : a boar-hunt, liord Stratford, a copy from Vandyck. One or two small paintings by Fuget merit notice; he was a native of Mar¬ seilles, and architect and sculptor, as well as painter. The rt. wing contains the Museum of Natural History, of which tiie most remarkable portions are the collections of shells and birds of Provence. Behind the Palais, at the top of the hill, is the large Eeservoiu of the Canal de Foquefavour, which supplies the Aqueduct, and has altered the aspect of the country around the town, by the irrigation which it furnishes. To the E. of these buildings lies the Zoological Garden, a popular irlace of recreation, handsomely laid out, and commanding fine views. It con¬ tains a very interesting collection of animals. A short distance N. is the Ohserva- tory. The conspicuous Church of St. Vincent de Paul (C. 2) is a fine modern edifice in 13th cent, style. The Public Library on the Boule¬ vard du JMusee (D. 3) contains up¬ wards of 80,000 vols. and 1300 IMSS., amongst wdiich is a richly illuminated one of the Speculum Ilumame Salca- tionis. Attached to the library is a collection of Coins and Medals. The Fish-market presents a lively and interesting scene in the early morning. The Flower-market also, at the N. end of Rue Cannebiere, deserves a visit. IMarseilles is much exposed to the Mistral, or cutting dry N.W. wind. The S.W. wind (Ital. Liheccio) blows with great force in this i^art of the Mediterranean, and the clouds of dust arc at times intolerable. The Grand Theatre, at the end of the Rue Beauveau, is capable of containing nearly 2000 spectators. The Gymnase, in the Rue du Theatre Fran 9 ais, is also large, ddie Alcazar, at the end of the Cours Belzunce, is a large and fine music-hall. Trade. — As a great commercial emporium, this city stands first in France. It possesses 60 manufactories of soap. Chemical works, furnaces fo^ smelting iron and copj^er, sugar re¬ fineries, and timber yards, are also numerous. Marseilles is the greatest resort for shipping in the Mediter¬ ranean, the number of square-rigged vessels and steamers frequenting it annually exceeding 10,000, with an aggregate burden of a million of tons. History.—Classical tradition assigns the foundation of Massilia to a colony of Phoca3ans, who left their native country, Asia Minor, with their wives and children, rather than submit to Cyrus, and sought for liberty on the then barbarous shores of Gaul (u.c. 600). Favourably received by the iidia- bitants of the country, the settlement increased and prospered, becoming great in commerce and navigation, and eminent in arts and literature. The rival of Carthage, IMassilia was strong enough to contend with her at sea, and to destroy her fleet. She was sought and esteemed by Rome as an ally, until, wishing to remain neutral in the wars between Cajsar and Pompey, but Anally siding with the latter, she was besieged, taken, and reduced to groat distress by his successful antagonist. Her importance continued during the middle ages ; she formed a sort of inde¬ pendent state, electing her own magis¬ trates, and forming alliances with other countries. She furnished alone all the galleys required by St. Louis to trans¬ port his army in the Crusade. At length, coiKjuered by Charles d’Anjou, Comte de Provence, she yielded to the rising superiority on the sea of Pisa, Genoa, and Venice. The well-known hymn of Revolu¬ tion, the Marseillaise, was composed 12 Boute 2 .—Marseilles to Mentone. by an Alsacian officer, Ttouget de UIde (1760-1836), and was so called because it was played by a body of troops from Marseilles inarcliing into Paris in 1792. POUTE 2. MARSEILLES TO MENTONE, BY TOULON, EREJUS, ST. RAPHAEL, CANNES, NICE, AND MONTE CARLO. ]\Iiles. Stations. Routes. Marseilles 6 . 1,3,6 3 La Blancarde 1 Marseilles Prado 11 Aubagne 6 Auriol 11 Valdonne 17 Cassis 23 La Ciotat Junct. 3 La Ciotat 27 St. Cyr 32 Bandol 36 Ollioules St. Nazaire 39 La Seyne 42 Toulon h 47 La Garde 49 La Pauline ... 3 54 Sollies-Pont 57 Cuers 62 Puget-Ville 64 Carnoules h 66 Pignans 76 Le Luc et le Cannet 81 Vidauban 85 Les Arcs b 8 Draguignan . 8 94 Eoquebrune 98 Frejus 102 St. Raphael 104 La Boulerie 107 Agay 113 Le Tray as 118 Theoule 119 La Bocca 4 Mouans Sartoux 9 Grasse ... 8 121 Cannes 125 Golfe Jouan 127 Juan les Pins 129 Antibes 133 Vence-Cagnes 141 Nice b .... 7,8 142 Nice Riquier 143 Villefranche Miles. Stations. Routes. 144 Beaulieu 146 Eza 148 Turbia 150 Monaco 151 Monte Carlo 153 Cabbe Roquebrune 156 Mentone 158 Ventimiglia 5 . . 12 On leaving Marseilles (Rte. 1) the train runs at first inland, through a diversified and pleasing country. 3 in. La Blancarde. To the rt. branches otf the local line to the Prado. The train passes under an Aqueduct. 4 m. La Pomme on the Huveauee, wliich the Ely. repeatedly crosses. 11 m. Aubagne (7900).s^ [Pretty excursion E. to the (3 m.) valley of Gemenos; 2 m. further are the ruins of the Abbey of St. Pons (13th cent.).] [B ranch Ely. N. to Valdonne, with important mines of lignite, passing Auriol, 6 m. E. of which is St. Zacltarie, where is a Church of the 11th cent. Hence an ascent of 2 hrs. leads to the celebrated pilgrimage *Chapel of La Saints Baume (2950 ft.), with a Grotto in the face of a mag¬ nificent cliff. Here St. Mary Alag- dalene is said to have died. Hence a path leads in ^ hr. to the chapel of St. Pilon (3300 ft.), immediately above the grotto, whence there is a very fine view over the bare hills and the dis¬ tant coast line. For the apjiroach from St. Maximin, see Ete. 6. Two tunnels (J m. and If m.) lead to 17 m. Cassis. The village (2600), 2 m. S., was the Portus Carsacis of the Eomans : its port is chiefly frequented by small vessels engaged in the coral fishery. 23 m. La Ciotat Junct., whence a branch Ely. leads S. to Ciotat (10,700), on the shore. Here is a large esta¬ blishment for the construction of iron / i ( f [• I Rei’e i n c e Pnrt.tz 3, Atx C..i. Caxhjudj'oJ. C- 4. IlStal de PTfi« \).4. Consigne, D5 Ch,.oT S*^VlctaT- .E.4. N.D. de. ht &ardfi E.F. 4 Chdte.fHL till Pham D. 5 ■ BotrlJji 13 MuseMm, 1 • Zoological. Cnxrden. BC l LxhroTy D 3 Ejochange 1)3 Theatre D.3. Frervch Prot^ Ch^. D 3- Post Office C 3 Palais Longdutmps D. 2. Ra.il'w Obseihii Rouc'js Baths duCoi Consiene L*Soiui E(iw°W^er LoTuiorv.JohTv Murrey, ATb at larle Street. I I »#. V Pioute 2.— St. steam-vessels belonging to the Messa- geries Maritimes. The Company em- })loys 2500 Avorkmen, and supports ad¬ mirable technical and ordinary schools. Ciotat, the ancient Citharista, is much engaged in coral-fisherv. 27 m. St. Cyr, in an extensive amphi¬ theatre of hills. 32 m. Bandol, with a small port on a very pretty bay, and some trade in immortelles. 30 m. Ollioules St. Nazaire. The village of St. Nazaire lies 2 m. S.; Ollioules, nearly 3 m. N. For the picturesque Gorges cV Ollioules, see Excursions from Toulon. 39 m. La Seyne. The town (12,000), 2 m. S., in the Bay opposite Toulon, lias a large Factory for steam-vessels and engines, employing 3000 workmen, and connected with the main line by a short Irranch. 2 m. S.E. of the town is Tamaris (p. 10). On a hill 2 m. S.W. of the Stat. stands the ancient village of Six Fours (see below). 42 m. TOULON (71,000),the Ply¬ mouth of France, the scat of her naval power in the IMediterranean, and the greatest naval arsenal in that sea, second only to that of Brest on the Atlantic. It is a strong fortress situated at the bottom of a deep double bay, which forms the roads. Behind it runs an amphitheatre of hills rising on the N. into the strongly fortified heights of Mont Faron (1800 ft.), which stretches its arms round the l»ay, so as nearly to landlock it, except on the S.E. Numerous forts on the land side defend the town, while the mouth of the harbour and the hills commanding it and the seashore are studded with fortifi-cations. The town itself is exposed to the Mistral, though on the sheltered slopes the temperature is extremely mild. The Ivonian name of 'I’oidon was Telo Martins. Towards the N. a modern quarter lias risen up on the site of the old fortifications. 4'he old town con.sists Cijr — Toulon, 13 of narrow streets descending towards tlie Quay. The Theatre, on the Boulevard do Strasbourg (2000seats)has a gmcefully sculptured group by Klagmann orna¬ menting the facade. To the S.E., in the little Flace Puget, is a pretty Fountain of 1780. The Cathedral, 11th to 18th cent., contains two good marble angels by Veyrier, nephew of Pierre Puget, ami an Assumption by Mignard. The Port is divdded into the old and new, separated from the roadstead by moles. The Port du Commerce, or Parse Yieille, on the E., is appro¬ priated to merchant-vessels, and bor¬ dered by a quay. The Parse Neuve, on the W., is surrounded by the dock¬ yard buildings, the arsenal, the stoi'e- houses for provisions, cannon foundry, and artillery park. Farther on are the Parse de Caetigneau, and Parse Missiessy. On the Quai du Port, the busiest spot in the town, alongside of the Commercial Harbour, is a bronze Statue of Navigation by Paumas, and at the ^Y. end the hulk of La Belle Poule, the ship which brought the body of Napoleon from St. Helena, in Dec. 1840. The Hotel de Ville is ornamented with tw'O colossal Cary¬ atides, by Pierre Puget, siqrporting a balcony. Close by, the house No. G4, now a Temple Protestant, was built after the designs of the same architect, by whom also are the two lions decorating the tympanum of a doorw'ay in the fish- market. Near the Parse Vieille, on the wall separating it from the sound, is the Masting Machine. In the Public Garden (military baud Tues. and Sat., 2 to 4) is a good statue by a pupil of Houdon, brought from the tomb of the Marquis de \hilbelle of Tourves; and on the of the garden is an ancient porch removed from the ruins of Six Fours (see belew). 14 Houte 2 .—Toulon : Uoadstead. The Museum, at the W. extremity of the Boulevard de Strasbourg, con¬ tains some good pastels by Victor Corduan; but some of bis best paint¬ ings are to be seen in the Salle des Prud’borames, 40, Kue du Gars. The Dockyard (Port Militaire), or Darse Neuve, covers a space of 240 acres, more tlian twice the area of that at Portsmouth. In it are a series of pontoons, or laid-up sailing line-of- battle ships, in which are lodged a re¬ serve of several thousand sailors. The Dassins or Floating Docks have an area of more than 80 acres of deep water, fit throughout for the largest ships fully equipped. In the centre of the yard is an opening into the Petite Rade, and a line-of-battle ship, fully armed and stored, may sail at once out to sea. The Arsenal is at the end of the Quay. Foreigners are not admitted without a permit^ only obtainable at the Bureau in the Flace d’Armes, a large planted Square, at the N.E. corner of the Arsenal. French Visitors only can enter by tickets from the INIajor-General or Admiral Superinten¬ dent. In the smithery there are 100 forge fires. The store of oak timber is very large. The rope-house(corder^e), nearly 400 yds. long, has vaulted alleys of fire-proof masonry. The Musee de la Marine contains a large collection of models of nautical inventions and ship-huilding, together with various sculptures by Fuget. In the Salle d’Armes (Small Arms Repo¬ sitory) may be seen many hundred rifles and guns of all descriptions. A supplemental building-yard has been formed at Mourillon, E. of the Petite Rade. Flere are several large roofed slips, and large Steam sawmills, with basins for preserving timber afloat. At the Arsenal of Castigneau are two docks of the largest size; also work¬ shops for the construction and repair of steam machinery on the largest scale. On a canal opening into the basin are the provision-stores for the fleet. A most interesting visit may be made by permission of the officer of the watch to one of the Ironclads anchored in the Fades. Boat from the Quay opposite the Rue d’Alger, 2 fr. 50 c. an hr. The boatmen are gene¬ rally Avell informed (see below). The dockyard and fleet of Toulon were destroyed by a British force under Sir Sidney Smith, detached from the fleet of Lord Hood, in Nov. 1793. The Roadstead is the most pictur¬ esque and interesting feature about Toulon, and the views of it from the deck of a steamer are very pleasing. Steamers ply from the Grand Quai 6 times a day to St. Mandrier (25 c., return 35 c.), touching at the villages on the shore, and every hour (25 c.) to IjU Seyne, where are the engineering works (Ateliers des Forges). The inner road {Petit Fade), which Toulon faces, covers nearly 3 sq. m., and has been dredged to a uniform depth of 33 ft. It is divided from the outer {Grande Fade) by two capes or headlands, and is completely sheltered. The head¬ land on the E. is defended at its point by the Batterie du Salut, which overlooks the old fort, or Grosse Tour, and is backed by the square Tour du Mourillon, built in 1848, a consj^icuous object from all points. At the neck or root of this headland, and S.E, of the town, stands the strong Fort de Lamalgue (omnibus every two hours from the Place dTtalie), com¬ manding one of the finest views of town and harbour, and surrounded by ram¬ parts 30 ft. high, defended by 200 pieces of cannon. Opposite to this, on the W. side of the bay, stretches forth a two¬ horned hilly promontory, the N. point occupied by the strong fort of Eguillette and the S. point by that of Ballaguier, armed to the water’s edge, while the commanding heights of Caire, above them, are crowned by the Fort Mal- grave, or Fetit Gibraltar, which re¬ places the field-works of 1793. L’Eguil- lette was regarded as the key of the British position in 1793, but was occu¬ pied by a garrison of which unfortu¬ nately only a small part were English, JRoute 2 .— Toulon: Excursions. 15 tlie rest Spaniards and Neapolitans. After keeping possession of it between : 3 and 4 months, in spite of the be¬ sieging French force from without, on the 16th Dec. a range of bat¬ teries, which had been formed secretly . by the French and concealed behind I the olive-gardens, suddenly opened their fire upon Le Petit Gibraltar and the Fort Eguillette from the heights i behind, throwing in the course of 36 j hours, 8000 shot and shells. Early the j; next morning, the French, led by Du- ji gommier, advanced to the attack, but j| were so warmly received, that at first I' there seemed no hope of success, until i the brave Muiron, followed by his men, ; entered by an embrasure on the side I of the line entrusted to the Spaniards, overpowered them, and cut to pieces the British detachment of 300 men. The planner of this attack and the constructor of the concealed batteries, was the young Napoleon Bonaparte, j, aged 24, then a Lieut, of artillery, |i who thus first displayed his military j genius on the heights above Toulon The Outer Roadstead (Grande Bade) is formed by a hilly peninsula stretch- j ing from W. to E., terminating in Cap Sepet, and corresponding with Cap ;I Brim on the N. side of the bay. The >' Bade is open to the sea from the E., but is sheltered from the S.W. wind V by the above-mentioned peninsula, on '! which stands the ‘I I Naval Hospital at St. 3Iandrier, a i| splendid building with 2000 beds, t excellently managed. For travellers, !| however, the chief attraction will be the || beauty of the spot and of the Garden j' (Jardiri d’Acclimatation) attached to i it, where the fig, aloe, cactus, palm, and banana flourish in the open air, 1 } The *view from the obelisk on the ij heights behind the hospital is amongst I' the finest in the 8. of France. The 1 traveller can return either on foot, by i way of Les Sablettes and La Seyne, or « by boat. 2 m. W. of St. Maudrier is j,' the Lazaret, Excuksions. a. Cap Brun, hr. on foot (omn. from the Place clTtalie, 30 c.), fine view. Here Sir Chas. Dilke has a summer residence. Further on is the Villa Ste. Marguerite, opposite which a narrow lane leads down to the creek, whence the pedestrian may enjoy a lovely view of the coast by returning along the shore in front of the Villa Cloquet, with its fine palm-trees, to the foot of Lamalgue, which he may cross, or, continuing along the shore to the Bue St. Louis, take the omnibus back to Toulon. b. La Valette (omn. from the Place d’ltalie every | hr. 25 c.). The beau¬ tiful grounds of the Villa Ste. Marie, on the slope of Mont Faron, are the chief attraction in this sheltered si3ot. Permission to enter is obtained at the gardener’s house. c. Gorges d’Ollioules. Omn. from the Place Puget, 45 c., carriage, 12 to 15 fr., 1 fr. the driver, to the further extremity of the gorge, which is situated N.W. of Toulon, on the road to Mar¬ seilles. The town of Ollioules (see above) is a picturesque little place of 3400 Inhab., doing a thriving trade in oranges and fruit, as well as in the cultivation of Immortelles for wi’eaths, sent to all parts of France. It is one of the warmest spots on the Biviera, the fruit of the date-palm being often found ripe. The gorge itself, about 2 m. in length, is very wild and savage, and the abundant traces of volcanic action give the whole district a peculiar character. Above the_ gorge, to the N., is the village of Evenos, with the ruius of a castle, which formerly guarded tlic passage, and commands a lino view. About 3 m. beyond Evenos are the sandstone quarries of Gres de Ste. Anne, interesting to the geologist, and remarkable for the curious forms assumed by the stone where it has been subjected to the infiltration of water. The drive home may be agreeably varied by keeping to the S. through St. Nazaire Reijnier and La Seyne. IG Route 2 .—Toulon to Nice. (1. Mont Faron (1800 ft.), reached by I the Toite Ste. Anne, the little hamlet of Ste. Anne, and Fort Faron,^ in about 1^ hr. The Condon (2315 ft.) to the N.E., commands a still finer view. (looJ walkers will pursue the road to the 1., along the top of the mountain, descend by the Fort Eouge, through Claret, and return to Toulon by the I’orte de France. e. Cap Garonne and the Col. Noir. Oinn. from the Place dTtalie to Le Pradet, 50 c., thence 1 hr.’s walk. The view is very fine, and in the side of the hill is a copper-mine. f. Valley of Dardennes (omu. from the Place ISt. Pierre, 35 c.). The sources of the Dardenues, the curious spring called the Ragas, and the little village of Tamaris ([). 13) deserve a visit.^ They are described by George Sand in her ^ Confessions d’une Jeune Fille.’ g. Six Fours, in the peninsula of Ca]) Sicier, by carriage or omn. to Itey- nier, alighting at the foot of the hill. The pedestrian should cross by steamer to La Seyne, whence it is 1 hr.’s walk, proceeding through the market-place of the little town, where a boy may be taken to show the way. The summit of the hill (68G ft.) commands a fine view, but the ruins of the Phocman city which existed here have disap- l)earcd to make room for a Fort. The Church of Six Fours is a very curious edifice, Gothic and Romanesque, with Crypt and ancient Baptistery. It contains a triptych on wood of the 15th cent. h. Isles d’Hyeres (Rte. 3). The steamer to these islands leaves (weather permitting) on Mon., Wed., and Frid., and crosses to Forquerolles in ‘2^ hrs. Mon. is the best day, as it then touches at Fort Cros, and some- linics crosses to Briau^on on the oppo¬ site coast, returning to Porquerolles. Toulon to Nice. The Rly., on leaving Toulon, culs through tlic fortified wall, and passes two forts upon the heights to the 1. As far as Frejus, the line runs inlnnd, between the granitic range of the Montagues des Maiires and the heiglits around Brignoles and Dra- guignan. The depression between the two, the real Garden of Provence, is cultivated in olives, vines, and corn: the greater portion being situated on the marls and limestones of the New Red Sandstone I'ormation, with a very luxuriant soil; the hills are clothed to their base with olive-trees, while thick woods of Finns Maritima, the brilliant green of which forms so fine a feature in the landscape, contrast with the silvery grey of the olive. 17 m. La Garde. 15th cent. Castle ill ruins on the 1. beyond the Stat. 49 m. La Pauline Junct., near the foot of Mont Condon. Branch Rly. to Ilyeres (Rte. 3). 54 m. Sollies-Pont (3000),on the Gapeati. The old toi\n of Sollies- Ville, with remains of walls, rises on a hill to the 1. 57 m. Cuers, a walled town with a Castle on the declivity of the hills to the 1. Omn. to (16 m.) Briynoles. 62 m. Puget-Ville, at the foot of a hill crowned with a 12th cent, tower. 64 m. Carnoules Junct. for Gar- danne (Rte. 6). The Rly. now reaches its summit-level of 800 ft. 66 m. Pignans. Extensive woods of cork-trees. On the wooded hills of IjCs Maures to the rt. stands the (1^ hr.) Hermitage of N. D. des Amjes (2570 ft.), commanding a splendid *view. Descent thence in hr. to CoUobrieres (Rte. 4). Deej) cuttings in the red marls lead to 76 m. Le Luc (3600),with a Church and Tow'er on a hill to the 1. [Omn. S.E. to (25 m.) St. Tropez (Rte. 4)—a beautiful drive, passing (Pi m.) La Garde (1500 ft.) on the site of Fraxinet, the great Saracen strong¬ hold, (17 m.) Griinaud, and (20 m.) Cinjolin.'} 5 m. N. is the interesting 17 Uoiite 2.— Vidauban — St. Haphael. CHstercii'in Cluircli of Tlioronet (12tli cent.), witli well preserved Cloisters. Farther on to the rt. is the Clmpelle Ste. Brigitte (G25 ft.). Fine view. 81 m. Vidauban, beyond which the Argens is crossed on a handsome bridge. To the 1., the Chateau d'Astros. Omn. N.W. to (6 m.) Lorgues (Ete. 8). 85 m. Les Arcs Junct. (3003),with a ruined Castle, and considerable trade in cork-bark. [Branch lily. N. to Draguignan (Kte. 8).] 90 m. Le Muy.s^ In 153G Charles V., on his retreat from bis disastrous expedition into Provence, was tired at from a tower (seen from Ely. on 1.). He owed his escape mainly to his sombre attire and the superior splen¬ dour of the armour of one of his attendants, the Spanish poet, Garci- laso de la Vega, who fell a victim to the ambuscade. 91 m. Eoquebrune, so called from a conspicuous rock jutting out from the chain of Les Maures. The remains of the Eomau Amphi- ] theatre are passed on the 1. just before reaching 98 m. FUEJUS (3G00),S^ a bishopric in conjunction with Toulon. It oc¬ cupies part of the site of Forum Julii, the birthplace of Julius Agricola, father-in-law of Tacitus. The Amphitheatre, 120 by 90 yds., tlirough which rims a public road, was constructed about a.d. 210, and could contain 9000 siiectators. Close to it are some fragments of Eomaii walls, and, nearer the Stat., the Forte des Gaules. E. of the Stat., and well seen from the Ely., is a Roman Arch, built of rubble-work alternately with layers of tile.s, called La Forte d’Oree, because it formed the land entrance to the Har¬ bour, now sanded up by deposits of the river, the sea having retired nearly a mile from the town. The only part now remaining is the W. Jtiviera. citadel, or Butte St. Antoine, whose walls, still partly existing, were J m. in circumference. Further S. is another tower which served probably as a light-house. S. of the Ely. are remains of Thermm. The small Cathedral of St. Etienne is a poor Eomanesque edifice, with an old picture of the Virgin and four Saints to the 1. of the Choir. Attached to it is an octagonal Baptistery, having eight antique columns of grey granite with marble capitals. Just within the Cloister is a curious piece of wooden roof. The Museum, at the H. de Ville, has a good head of Jupiter, fragments of pottery with potter’s marks, ancient utensils, statues, funeral urns, scraps of marble and mosaic pavement, and medals. In the Seminary is a Library, con¬ taining a MS. Bible of the 8th or 9th cent, from the Monastery of Le'rins. Further on is the Roman Theatre: its position is marked by a square tower. It measured 80 yds. by 33 ; the stage (destroyed) being 9 yds. wide. The * Aqueduct has been traced for more tlian 19 m. to Mons above the Siagnole (Ete. 8), whose clear water it conveyed to the town. Many of the arches and piers remain, some 50 ft. high. It ps a picturesque sub¬ ject for the artist’s pencil. Carriage- road by the Esterels to Cannes (Ete. 5). The train, on quitting Frejus, passes close to the Porte d’Oree (on the 1.). To the rt. is the rectangular citadel and sea-wall of the harbour. The shore is reached at 102 m. St. Raphael (2508),a quiet winter resort, much exposed to the Mistral. Buried in the woods towards the E. are many charming lillas, with sea view, and the Faro Calvet, with needle rocks, and beau¬ tiful grounds sloping down to the sea. At the door of the modern Church are six small columns of very beautiful grey porphyry from the old Eoman quarries at La Boulerie (see below). Here Napoleon landed 1799, on his return from Egypt, and embarked 1811 for Elba. St. Eaphacl was tho c 18 jRoide 2.— Vatesciire — Cannes. birthplace of the Abbe Sieyes (1748- 1836), one of the 3 Consuls in 1799. 2 m. N. is Valescure {Vallis Cu- rans).s^ It is finely situated at the foot of the Esterels, and has numerous villas. Dr. Gueneau de Mussy, M. L’Abbe, the eminent surgeon, and Alphonse Karr (1890), resided here for many years. 6 m. N. are the bituminous shale mines of Bozon ; 1 m. S.E. of these are the coal mines of Auriasque. The Rly. is carried along the Medi¬ terranean shore, skirting the rocky base of the Esterel chain. The promontory separating the Bays of Frejus and Napoule, and ending in Cap Koux, is traversed by tunnels and cuttings in the red sandstone and por¬ phyry. 104 m. La Boulerie, is a remark¬ ably sheltered position, f hr. inland are three quarries of grey porphyry worked by the Romans, and re-dis¬ covered by M. Chas. Texier in 1829. The scenery continues wild and picturesque as the train approaches 107 m. Agay,S^ on a small, pretty bay. Here are extensive quarries of blue porphyry, which have furnished pavements and other building material for Marseilles and Toulon. From the Signal Station of Tour de Darmont, beyond the quarries, is gained a fine view. A lovely coastguard path leads from Agay to Trayas in 3 hrs. Cap Roux may be ascended from Agay in 1 | hr., but more conveniently from 113 m. Le Trayas.S^ f m. W. of the Stat., reached by a pretty road de¬ scending through the woods, is a good little Inn, a convenient point for the ascent of the (IJ hr.) Cap Roux (1510 ft.) or the (2 hrs.) Hermitage of Ste. Baume (1450 ft.). [A zigzag path leads immediately from the Stat. platform towards either, bearing left above the Rly.] The path from the Inn continues W. till it reaches the Rly. at a large embankment in the form of a viaduct which spans the valley. Crossing the line, the N. side of the valley leads to the Hermi¬ tage, the S. to Cap Roux. The path to the latter is sometimes ill-defined, but not easily ^missed, the direction lying well inland, or nearly due W., for about f hr. Here a sort of low col is reached, affording a view of Agay and the coast line beyond it. The pedestrian must now turn sharp to the left, and the summit will be reached in 5 hr. *View magnificent, embracing the Esterels, the beauti¬ fully indented shore, and the islands lying off Cannes. Descending to the rt., inland from the above-mentioned low col, a vague path leads in J hr. to the Ste. Baume (Holy Cave) of St. Honorat—a tiny recess in tlie face of a cliff, closed by a door (unlocked), and commanding a beautiful view from its little terrace. The approach to it is very romantic, the pathway and steps being hewn out of the rock. Returning to Le Trayas, it is best to descend inland to a copious and deliciously cold spring, and thence take the first turning to the rt., crossing the valley towards the sea. The entire walk, from the Inn and back, need not occupy more than 3| hrs., and is one of the plea¬ santest in the Esterels. From Trayas Stat. a path leads direct to a col between the Ours (1525 ft.) on the rt., and the Aurelle (1040 ft.) on the 1., descending to Agay Stat.—a fine walk of 4 hrs. The coast-guard path to La Napoule (see below) is also strongly recom¬ mended. A tunnel | m. long leads to 116 m. Theonle. On the rt. is the Gulf of La Napoule, with a ruined Castle. Inland to the 1. rises Grasse. 119 m. La Bocca, where the branch Rly. from Cannes to Grasse (Rte. 8 ) quits the main line. 121 m. CANNES (20,000), down to 1834 a poor fishing village, now a flourishing watering-place. Its name is derived from the reeds or cannm in which the fishermen’s huts stood. It extends for 4 m. from W. to E. along the shores of the Golfes Jouan and de Boute 2 .—Cannes : Floiver Culture. 19 la Napoule. It owes its prosperity, in a great measure, to the first Lord Brougham, who, having been pre¬ vented by the Sardinian authorities from crossing the Italian frontier to Nice, on account of the cholera in 1834, took up his residence here, being attracted by the beauties of the spot, and its fine vegetation, and climate. He died here on the 7th May, 1868. His remains lie in the Cemetery, where a plain and lofty cross of granite marks his grave. The principal street is that which forms the high road from Frejus to Antibes. From either side of the old town, along the shore, and up the hills in its vicinity, have spread houses and villas with gardens, extending N. to¬ wards Le Cannet. Cannes suffered no damage from the earthquake of Feb. 23, 1887. In the Allees de la Liberte, an ob¬ long space which forms the principal Promenade, is a marble Statue op Loed Brougham (1778-1868). W. of it stands the H. de Ville, containing a Public Library and Museum of Natural History. The crooked Rue de Frejus leads hence W. in 19 min. to one of the English Churches {Christ Ch.), be¬ yond which a road ascends on the rt. in 40 min. to the *Croix des Gardes (540 ft.), the best point of view in the W. quarter. Continuing W. from Christ Church, the Route de Frejus passes on the rt. the Villa Vallom- brosa, a miniature castle, in a superb * Garden, the Villa Eothsehild, and the Villa Eleonore Louise, built by Lord Brougham. The Villa Nevada, below the heights of Californie E., was the last resi¬ dence of H.R.H. Prince Leopold, where he died in March 1884. In front of it rises a column bearing a group of St. George and the Dragon, and close by is a Memorial Charel, erected by the Queen. In this quarter is the villa of M. Dognin, surrounded by one of the most beautiful gardens on the Riviera. They contain a great variety of exo¬ tics from all parts of the world, and are kept in perfect order. On Mont Chevalier (150 ft.), round which the old town with its harbour was built, stands the 17th cent. Church of Notre Dame d' Espe'rance, much revered by sailors, and decorated with their ex-voto offerings. There are scanty remains of an earlier Church (11th cent ). Adjoining it are the ruins of a square Tower, erected in a d. 1070 by the Abbot of Lmins, feudal lord of the coast from FrQns to Antibes, as a defence against Moorish pirates, or as a place of refuge. The *view is very fine and extensive. Markets.—The principal one is on the N. side of the Grande Rue. There is another for the convenience of persons living on the E. of Cannes in the PI. Chateaudun. John-dory, red and grey mnllet, sea basse or loup de mer, sardines, and the langouste or sea crawfish, are the best fish. Mac¬ kerel are sometimes taken in the bay. The Flower Marhet is held in the Allee de la Liberte. A box of beauti¬ ful flowers (2 fr.) may be sent by post to England for 35 c. The traffic in cut flowers Irom Cannes for the seven mouths of Nov. 1887 to May 1888, amounted to 74,332Z. (weight 369 tons 2 ewi); and for the four mouths of Nov. to Feb. in the following season to 65,268Z. (weight 323 tons); show¬ ing an increase per month in one season of 5698Z. Flower Culture.—Jonquils, violets, roses, lemon-scented geraniums, cassia, jessamine, and other flowers, are grown in great quantities for making scents. The orange is cultivated chiefly for its blossoms, and the essence from it, called Ne'roli, is employed in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne. The gathering of the orange-blossoms com¬ mences about the end of April. The dried peel is also used for the manu¬ facture of Eau de Poi tugal and other perfumes. For the mode of extracting the perfume, see Grasse (Rte. 8). Towards the end of February tlie wild flowers, which arc tlie glory of C A 20 Honte 2.— Cannes: Excursions. tins neighbourhood, although much diminished in quantity, begin to ap¬ pear. The striking feature of these coasts is the luxuriant and semi-tro¬ pical nature of the vegetation. Date- palms, aloes, agaves, yuccas, cacti, and Japanese medlars, not only grow, but nourish; and the Eucalyptus, introduced here in 1859, attains in a very short time a great size, a proof of the mildness of tlie climate and ot the light, dry and fertile soil. The hills are cut into terraces for tlie growth of orange-trees, and vine¬ yards and orange-groves are replacing the olive, the cultivation of which has of late years proved unprofitable. The roots of the heath (Erica Medlter- ranea), with which the mountains are covered, are used in the Jura for the manufacture of the mis-named briar- wood pipes (bois de Bruyh'c). Cannes is the most frequented winter resort in Europe. The hotels may be numbered by the score, and there are from 700 to 800 villas, many of which are let to strangers fur the winter, ddiey are scattered over a wide area, differing a good deal in climate in different parts. The East side of Cannes is now as much in favour with physicians as the West. Climate.—The climate is perhaps more equable than that of Nice or IMentone, the air not being so keen as in the more exposed situations at the former, nor so relaxing as at the latter. For those who sufter from the sea-air, producing often nervous irritability and want of sleep, the villas and hotels on the N. side of the town, and towards le Cannet, are prefer¬ able. The Sea-Bathing is very agree¬ able, esiiecially on the Chi-i.-^t Church or W. side of the town, wdiere the water is fresher and clearer. As there is little or no tide in the Mediterranean, horse machines are not required, but little w'ooden huts are erected on the sands to serve as dressing-rooms for the bathers. Some families pitch their own tents, and remain in them half the day. Excursions. Excursions, in carriages, or on ponies or doideeys, are endless, and the scenery is everywhere beautiful. The Boulevard de la Fonciere Lyon- nai^e, nearly 2 m. long, runs N. from a point close to the Ely. Stat. on the W., and forms a magnificent avenue, planted on either side with plane-trees and palms to a. (2d m.) Le Cannet.The climate here is even milder than at Cannes, the valley being very sheltered. Here, in the Villa Sardou, Mile. Rachel, the tragedian, died in 1858. At the foot of Ihe hill is the ruin of the chapel of St. Claude. Passing a me¬ dieval tower, and through the old road, the Blace is reached, which com¬ mands a beantiful view. b. La Napoule, 0 m. S.S.W.of Cannes, gives its name to the bay. There are some ruins of an ancient Castle, but the principal attraction is the beauty of its situation at the foot of the Esterel IMts. A Cornice road runs hence to (2 m.) Theoule (see above), a most i)icturesque spot, commanding a fine view of the bay and islands. The pedestrian may enjoy a beau¬ tiful walk round the Cliffs to the Ely. Stat. at (1 hr.) Le Tray as (see above), and return to Cannes by train. The coast-guard ]iath ascends to the Bointe de VAiguille, whence is gained a splendid \ iew over Cannes. e. 10 m. N.W. of Cannes is Auribeau (500), beautifully situated on the Siagne, wdiose picturesque gorges are worth exploring. The road thither passes (G ra.) Be'gomas (1350), on the Mourachone. Ihe w'alk from Auri¬ beau S.E. to Mandeleau, over the long ridge of the Tanneviou, is one of the most charming in the country. d. The Church tow'cr of Mougins, 5 m. N. of Cannes on a height J m. to the rt. of the Grasse road, is often ascended for the view\ 1 m. S.E. is the Chapel of Notre Dame de Vie, wdience Cannes may be regained by way of (3 ni.) Le (Jaiinet. The situation of the Chapel, with its 21 Haute 2 .—Castellaras avcuuc of aucicnt cypresses, is very beautiful. 2 ra. beyond Mougins is the *Yilla of Castellaras, above which rises a conspicuous clump of trees. The view from the mound (1050 ft.) is the tinest in the district. The loftily situated village to the N. is Ghdteau- neuf (1050 ft.). Within the grounds at Castellaras is an interesting Chapel. The Villa is 1^ m. N.E. of (8 m.) Moiians-Sartoux Stat. on the branch Illy, to Grasse. e. A magnificent *Cornice Road as¬ cends from the heights of Californio in numerous windings to the Ob¬ servatory (765 ft.), about an hour’s drive from the centre of the town. Splendid views are enjoyed at every turn during the ascent, and the summit commands a grand ^Panorama. The return may be varied bv taking the Cliemin Superieiw de Ja Californie, which leads down to the II. Metropole, on the Poute d’Antibes. (Carriage for j the entire round, 10 fr.) i During a part of its course, the road I passes near a branch of the Aqueduct I which supplies Cannes with water i from the sources of the Siagne, dis¬ charging its stream into a Reservoir in the Vtdlon des Monlins, near Le Cannot. Here it forks into three distinct canals for the supply of W., central, and E. Cannes. f. Vallauris (4000) is best reached (in a carriage) by the low-level road E. to (4 m.) Golfe Jouan, at)d thence N. (2 m.) up the valley. The village ( Vidlis Aiirea) has since the time of the Romans been the seat of a manufactory of Fottery, made from the fine clay in the valley. Tlie principal works are those of the Brothers Massier (Cle'- ment, Jerome, and Dolphin). M. Clement, whose wife is English, gave lessons in modelling to the Duke of Albany. He has also extensive show¬ rooms of artistic j^ottery close to Golfe Jouan. A bridle-road leads N. from Vallauris in 1^ hr. to the picturesque ruin of the Roman aqueduct at Clausonne, better known as the Fonts de Valla uris, 10 m. from Cannes. Tne old road to Vallauris, recom- —lle Ste. Marguerite. mended to pedestrians, turns to the right from the Boulevard du Cannet by the gas works, and ascends for 3 m. to a low col (660 ft.), on which stands the Chapel of St. Antoine. 15 min. N. of it is the Grand Pin (850 ft.), com¬ manding a most extensive view. 10 min. further on is Le Phou (875 ft.). g. Strangers should not fail to visit the Jardin des Hespelides, with fine orange-groves, on the Croisette, a narrow promontory 2 m. S.E. of Cannes, reached by a beautiful road. Aljout a mile S. of the Point is the He Ste. Marguerite, the nearest of the lies de Lerins. — Small Steamer daily in 20 min. (2 fr. return) ; to St. Honorat in 1 hr. (3 fr. return). Boat to the two Islands and back, 12 to 15 fr., according to bargain. The He Ste. Marguerite, a narrow strip of land 4 m. in circumference, is covered with pine-wooJ. The Fort, once a state prison, was built about the year 1633, and the dungeon in which the Man in the Iron Mask was confined (1687-97) is still shown; its walls are 12 ft. thick, and its soli¬ tary window is guarded by treble ranges of iron bars. The only approach to it was through the governor’s dwelling. Marshal Bazaine was im¬ prisoned here on the 26th Dec. 1873, but made his escape by night on the 9th Aug. 1874. The mysterious ‘ Iron Mask ’ is supposed by some writers to have been a brother of Louis XIV., or an Italian named Mattioli, who had offended the King by thwarting his design lo establish a French garrison at Casale. It is said that this Prisoner’s illegal arrest demanded extraordinary measures for concealment, and that his name was changed to Lestang. On the other hand it is contended that similar methods of treatment were not uncommon at that period in the case of political ofienders, while the com¬ plete silence of History as regards the disappearance of any important per¬ sonage between the above dates would lead to the inference that the prisoner was nobody in particular. The ‘ Iron Mask ’ was removed to the Bastille in 1697, and died there on the 19th Nov., 22 Boute 2 .—Gamines to Nice. 1703. The mask is said to have been made of black velvet. The He St. Honorat, 2 m. in circum¬ ference, preserves the remains of a 12 th cent, monastery, founded by the Saint in 410.s^ It was fortified to protect the monks from the attacks of the Sacaceiis or other pirates, and there remains a double donjon- tower, sur¬ rounded by a loop-holed wall, and a large hall with groined roof. There is also an ancient Cloister, but most of the existing Convent is modern. On the road running round the island are ruins of four chapels which have existed from remote times—St. Por- caire, St. Sauveur, St. Pierre, and Ste. Justine. At the E. end of the island stands the Chapel of *La Trinite (11th cent.), with parts as old as the 7th cent., rebuilt in 1876. Over the E. door is an early Christian relief. After the secularisation of the monas¬ tery in 1788 the island was sold by auction, and passing from hand to hand, was finally purchased by the Bishop of Frejus, who re-established a Cistercian community of about 50 monks in 1859. Excursions to Grasse and beyond, see Rte. 8. Cannes to Nice. On leaving Cannes the Rly. crosses the plain near the sea, and afterwards rises over the low ridge of La Croisette, passing several handsome villas on the declivity of the hills. 125 m. Golfe Jouan.s^ A French squadron frequently comes here to manoeuvre. A small column com¬ memorates the landing of Napoleon I. from Elba, Mar. 1, 1815. He bivou¬ acked in a neighbouring olive-garden, and at midnight took the road through Cannes to Grasse. Tlie Rly. now crosses the peninsula of Antibes, passing 127 m. Juan les Pins, a small winter Stat. and summer bathing-place. 129 m. Antibes (6742),a fortified town and port at the base of a pro¬ montory jutting out into the sea. in a situation hardly to be surpassed for beauty. It stands on the site of the Roman Antipoli>^, of which city, however, scarcely any vestiges remain. In the ancient cemetery was found an inscription to the memory of Septen- trio, a boy of 12, QUi antipoli in THEATRO BIDUO SAIiTAVIT ET PLACUIT. The Greek town of Antibes dates as far back as the 4th or 5th cent, b.c., and was the frontier fortress of the Pho- cean colonists (see Marseilles) aga,inst the Ligurians. The picturesque little harbour is enclosed and sheltered by high loopholed walls. The fortifica¬ tions were erected by Vauban (1691), who also built the strong fort on the N. of the harbour and the Pier (503 ft.). Here are two of those tall, square Keeps, so common in Provence, raised as safeguards against Saracen pirates. The conical hill of La Garoupe, or N. D. d’Antibes (246 ft.), | hr. S. of the town, commands a wide expanse of sea and coast-line E. as far as San Remo. It is reached by a paved path¬ way, bordered with the 14 Stations of the Cross, and probably occupies the site of a Pagan sanctuary. Beyond it is a Lighthouse. The *view is unique on the Riviera, the entire range of the Maritime Alps being visible, as well as the nearer coast-line. A beautiful carriage-road of 4 m. connects the town of Antibes with Cap d’Antibes, where the scenery is most attractive ; and the views amongst the finest on the Riviera. On the extreme point is the * Villa Eilenroc, the property of J. Wyllie, Esq., who kindly permits travellers to enter the grounds. The Cap d’Antibes is a charming winter residence for invalids in search of quiet and sunshine, but is not suited to consumptive patients in a very ad¬ vanced stage, being somewhat exposed to the mistral. Between Antibes and the Cape, the Gardens of the F^7Za Thuret deserve a visit. They are open on Tues., and supply the Jardin des Flantes at Paris. [4 m. N. of Antibes is Biot, which be¬ longed to the Knights Templars in 1247, and afterwards to the Knight of 23 Hoiite 2.— Vence- Cagnes — Nice, Maltn. The Church is worth a visit.] The Brague aud the Lou]) are crossed to 133 m. Vence-Cag'nes. The town of Cagnes, upon a hill li m. to the 1., has ^ an old Castle of the G-rimaldi family, converted into a private resi¬ dence. 2 m. N.W. is Villeneuve Lohet, with a tall watch-tower or keep above it, opposite which, on the steep conical hill of La Trinite, is another Tower. 6 m. ]Sr. is Fence (Kte. 8). Beyond this the Ely. descends through some deej) cuttings towards the river Var, which once divided France from the Sardinian states. N. of the line is a JardincVAccUmatation, and S. a racecourse. “ The Var and the Durance lake their rise in the same mountain district, and the two rivers present a striking resemblance. Strictly speaking, they are not rivers, but rather mountain torrents. The immense stony beaches they form are the debris left by the livers after the passage of a great flood. The Var hows for twenty miles between two parallel dykes more than 300 yards apart, and reaching above the level of nny hood. The marshes have thus disappeared, the country has been rendered healthy, the toi rent has been kept within bounds, aud the once shifting land at tlie river’s mouth has Ijeen protected.”—C. Lentheric, La Frovence Maritime. The Ely. crosses the Var by a hne Bridge, whose piers are founded on piles sunk nearly 30 ft. deep in the sand of the river-bed. 141 m. NICE (92,000),in Italian Nizza, chief town of the Dept, des Alpes Maritimes, was formerly the capital of a small independent sove¬ reignty governed by its Counts in the middle ages. It passed successively into the hands of the Counts of Pro¬ vence, of the Angevin sovereigns of Naples, until the end of the 14th cent., when it was sold by Ladislaus to Amedeus VII. of Savoy. From 1792 to 1814 it was in the hands of the French, to whom, as one of the results of the Italian war, it again fell in 1860. Of late years it has grown enormously, having had a population of only 23,000 when handed over to Napoleon III. Nice is generally believed to have been peopled by a Phoctean colony from Marseilles, as early as the 5tb cent, of Eome; during the Imperial period it was a port of some importance, from its vicinity to Cemenelum (Cimiez), the Eoman capital of the Maritime Alps. The name of Nice is derived by some philologists from Ni'kttj, in memory of a victory gained by its early Phocajan colonists over some neighbouring Ligurian tribes. Climate. — With its few draw¬ backs, Nice offers advantages from its situation, its resources, and the facility with which it is reached from England, vastly superior to those afforded by most places in competition with it. Situated at the opening of a valley enclosed by hills which in winter are often covered with snow, the wind descending from them is sometimes cold; but the greatest drawback per¬ haps is the dry N.W. wind or Mistral^ which, crossing Provence, is very trying to invalids while it lasts, and is at¬ tended with clouds of dust, which no amount of watering can prevent. The great advantage which the climate of Nice offers in winter is its clear at¬ mosphere, bright sun, and comparative absence of rain, which always renders the chamber of the invalid cheerful. The temperature seldom falls below freezing during the clear, serene winter nights, and is then produced more by radiation than by an absolute di¬ minished temperature. The daytime is warm, sometimes inconveniently so, even in December; and persons sub¬ ject to nervous headaches, or determi¬ nation of blood to the head, should avoid the sun, or use the grey linen parasols so generally adopted. The mean temperature of Nice, deduced from 15 years’ observation, has been found to be 60Fahr. Greatest heat in July and Aug., 88 ; greatest cold in Jan., 27J°; mean temperature, Dec., Jan., and Feb., 48f°; in Mar., Apr., and May, 58°; in June, July, and Aug., 78°; in the autumn, 62°. The etfeet of the climate of Nice on dis- 24 Boiite 2 .—Nice : Promenade. case may be pronounced excellent in cases of chronic rheumatism, gout, and paralysis; very good in visceral ob¬ structions, dysjjepsia, and in scrofulous and glandular affections, especially for children, owing to the dry, bracing nature of the air. In jrulmonary complaints of an advanced stage, a residence at Nice is not to be recom¬ mended ; in incipient or threatened consumption, unaccompanied by febrile irritation, a winter residence in Nice is less objectionable. In all affections of the brain, this climate will prove pre¬ judicial in the extreme. “ In female ailments patients cannot go to a better place.” Among the low hills on the W. side of the Paglione and behind Nice the air is milder and less stimulating than in the lower situation about the town and nearer the sea. In tlie selection of a residence, however, in¬ valids will do well to consult their medical attendant, as all quarteis are not equally well suited for different ailments or even for different ages. Nice is now reached in 29 hrs. from London. Sanitary Improvements at Nice (Extract from II.B.M. Consul’s Ee- jport, Oct. 1889). “ The Municipality of Nice has in¬ troduced improvements which consi¬ derably increase the healthiness of this town, and which, I believe, have so far been carried out in no other of the towns on the French Eiviera. In the first place they have secured, entirely irre¬ spective of the natural supply of water, an immense water supply, which is calculated at little less than 1000 litres a day per inhabitant. The drains are fitted with automatic flushers, placed at intervals of some 300 metres apiirt; which appear to give excellent results. Street gulleys of improved construction have been largely provided, which, when kept full of water (which is done by means of the hose in watering the streets), effectually prevent the escape of foul air, while allowing rain and other surplus water to pass into the drain. These are superior to anything of the kind I have seen in England or elsewhere.” Modern Nice offers few ancient re¬ mains of art; w'e must seek these at Cimiez, on the hills above it. The mediseval town appears to have been entirely situated on the 1. bank of the Paglione torrent, and round the base of the hill on which its castle stood, the whole of the quarter on the rt. bank being a creation of the present cent., since the great influx of foreign¬ ers ; of late years the town has been much extended also in a northerly direction, and the quarter bordering on its little port much enlarged and embellished. As mnch as lOh a sq. yd. has been given for the best sites in the town ; but building has lately been somewhat overdone, and the value of land has fallen. The city consists of three principal portions : that on the rt. bank of the Paglione, called the Quartier de la Croix de Marhre; the Old Town with its modern additions; and the Port. The first is that principally occupied by foreigners. N.E. of it lies the Quartier de Carabacel, jireferred by visitors who object to being near the sea, and E. of this stretches the new and still unfinished Quartier de Eiquier, which has a suburban Stat. of its own. A third Stat. serves the Ely. to Grasse (Ete. 8). The broad A venue de la Gare, plant¬ ed with fine rows of plane-trees, leads S. in 10 min. from the central Ely. Stat. to the Place Massena, passing on the rt. the Gothic Church of Notre Dame, designed by Lenormant in the style of the 13th cent., and opened in 1871, and still unfinished as regards structural ornamentation. Beyond the Place, built on arches over the wide bed of the Paglione, stands on the 1. tlie handsome Casino. Close to the mouth of the river is the Jardin Public, surrounded on two sides by handsome buildings, and open tow'ards the sea. Nearly in front of it is the Jetee Promenade (50 c.), assort of Pier, very original in plan and treatment, with a concert-room, restaurant, and cafe. On Sun, in summer the entrance 25 lloute 2 .—Nice : Castle-hiU. is free. Here commences the most popular place of resort, the wide Pro¬ menade des Anglais, a mile in length, constructed by subscriptions chiefly of the English visitors, in 1822, to employ the poor during a year of scarcity. A short street leads N.W. from the Jardin Public to the Croix de Marbre (1568), erected in com¬ memoration of the visit of Pope Paul III. (1538) to effect a reconciliation between Charles V. and Francis I., “ when so great was the difficulty of adjusting the ceremonial, or such the remains of rancour and distrust on each side, that they refused to see one another, and everything was trans¬ acted by the intervention of the Pope, who visited them alternately.” —Jiohertsons Charles V. The white marble column opposite this cross was put up in 1823 to commemorate the two visits of Pius VII. in 1809 and 1814. The quarter of the Old Town ex¬ tends from the Paglione to the foot of the Castle-hill; on the side of the sea it is bordered by the Quai du iMidi, a handsome parade, affording a delightful walk, ^ m. long. Parallel to this are the Pue St. Francois de Paule and the Cours, between which and the Quai are the Theatre and Public Library. Farther N. is the Ptue du Pont Neuf and Place St. Uominique, the centre of business. The latter leads N. into the Boulevard on the 1. bank of the river, followdng which N.E. we reach iii 8 min. the large Place Garibaldi, wdiere is a marble Statue of GiusErpE Garibaldi, unveiled on 4 Oct., 1891, wdth bronze lions and a fountain. The illustrious Italian patriot was born at Nice on 19th July, 1807. The street running from the S.E. corner of the Place Garibaldi to the Port is called Hue Peejurane, in memory of a woman who cut down the Turkish flag when it was planted on the castle during the attack by the allied French and Turkish forces in 1542. The quarter close under the hill is the oldest part of Nice. Near this are the market, calhedralj and principal churches. In the Place Massena is a bronze Statue to Marshal Massena (1758- 1817), the spoiled child of victory, wdio was born at Nice. The Rue Smollett commemorates the residence here (1763-65) of the author of ‘ Humphrey Clinker.’ Napoleon I. was kept for a time under arrest in 1794, in a villa now No. 1 Hue de Villefrauche; and two years later, when in command of Ihe army of Italy, ho lived for a few days at No. 8 Hue St. Fran 9 ois de Paule. Paganini (1784-1840j died at No. 11 Rue do la Prefecture. The Castle-hill (320 ft.), an insulated mass of coralline Dolomitic limestone, was formerly crowned by a strong castle, besieged, taken, and razed to the groun 1 by the Duke of Berwick, general of I.ouis XIV., in 1706. It has been laid out as a Public Prome¬ nade, the entrance to which is from the N., or from the E. by a road that ascends from the W. side of the Port, or by a flight of steps cut in the rock ascending from the S.W. base of tlie mound. At the foot of the steps is the round Tour Bellanda, the only relic of the ancient Castle. Some Roman remains have been discovered on the summit, towards the S.E., in¬ cluding three sepulchral sarcophagi of the 5th cent. From the summit the view is very extensive (best time early in the morning and before sunset). On the N. side of the Castle-hill is the Cemetery, now di.'sused. Here lies the body of Gambetta (1838-82), after a previous burial in Pere la Chaise. It is also the burial-place of Garibaldi’s mother (1852). The Port, capable of admitting ves¬ sels drawing 15 ft. water, is protected by two moles, the outer one of which has a small lighthouse and a strong battery. On the W. side of the port stands a well-executed Statue of Charles F Pnit^s' Abaitoii 2'Pension’des Pai^tiers _ dje Rome-. . «. Mediterrxirt^ .. — ^^Piueerrihoiu^j.... H*--... des Analxiis... 12. Pefnsion MiUel . .7... ... . l^-Roixl <3-An^letert'c..^ . .. dn-lnGtxiruie BrYtoiTt -w. dc Pnanoe^. __ l6. . ^ . dm la Paia:.^ . ^'7. Grand i/oto*?.7..7*7 des Pfti'tLn^crs . t, .. .jcLcs Pf'inves . .. 20. Pension Suisse ... 21 . Chur^- ^ot?*e Bame. _ 2Z.HospiiaZ Srpoidt .. Cd iJefnofy/, .BixlestJ L’AU B RE, y.ihri-ju^oJ' 3f Blitj'eJi Ca-Aeiiik W ^ '*: ;t I ON if la Toiij^ •'/, te^ / 3 Roch^^ 28 . TTioa^j'e Pyxmcxus.. 29 . ... Murcietf>ai SO.^ceiun Patioruxl. SX.Balais cie ^histice 32 . Museum __ 33 JB 55<«2 ^onthar\>n.^. A 5»tatio^ C.zi‘UMaifo.6 ,n ^ iMm -i /'M^ Sajv rxo ■ROlk M A G N A N Stef^irus Li}U>lU !t»iise Q-SS' ~ Clxaleau Smi] ■V///ll/jll 0 ^ochViUci E NVIR O N S Scale of Eix^ish. Miles C.deNic. l^du Garon LondorLs John Murmv, Aihemarle Street. 8 F.S.W-Aler iVi a i^iirfiiiy .. ■•ejT?.»• » :j P'/i»"> tT J* - .«.9 K.ij. ■ -vxM' •-- 'V . • U3g^^_ur^, 45^ ' ^ ' .6.0., •~«jKr«r«»iltielA.^•(> „ .»0i .IK.O, r.'^' t .h a { • ',♦,0 •»t> i| «i tN ’ ^ [>4Mi»»0 >h . ■. ■^*^.-. . j, pfi tbo 1>C*S>- ) Nk*' V •t'S' — V»MI>nor^ • ».4«. ,.: •■ V Shi .|f -J *.? -hfi ' is.'- •, v' \ :t:a Attroliu, ^ * .. i* ' * 2 - t^intmfiuOC 3 ri 4 ^ >. 0 . .>vi,Ms.tiK. i ’■if;*.!, A’M,,r • !| <»a'\ f.tft'uyt. lie’.‘51 :■ V . .,‘t r>'tlitir£rj. r. i; . .t ' I'hJii-'i* iv..v •>o* .'*. Ji ' v* i% JiA'.i II 4«>i ‘'..r f^' h' ki J.a A ^ 27 Hoiite 2 .—Nice : Tramways ; Excursions, of confetti, formerly sugar-plums, but now made of plaster; the Battle of Flowers, another pelting match, which takes place on the Promenade des Anglais; the moccoletti, or lighted tapers, which the hohler tries to keep alight and others endeavour to extin¬ guish (falling into disuse); and the Veglioni, a Masquerade Ball at the Theatre Municipal. Handsome prizes are given for the best Costumes and Equipages. Tramways. Tramway from Ste. Helene (2 m. W.) to the Place Massena; thence to the Port and Abattoir (A. 6); and N. to St. Barthelemy (A. 2). A tramway runs W. from the Place Massena along the Kue de France to the Pont Magnan (10 c.), at the end of the Promenade des Anglais. Excursions. a. The English Cemetery is about 2 m. W. of the town, opposite the large cemetery of La Caucade. b. 2 m, N., up the Vallou de Mag¬ nan, is La Madeleine Stat. (Rte. 8), whose valley is worth exploring. A mile beyond the Pont de Magnan, on the road to Cannes, is the Vallee de Bar da. Between the Magnan valley, 2 m. E. of Nice, and the long sloping ridge of Cimiez, are several very interesting rations, which it would take weeks to explore. The most celebrated is the c. Vallon Obscur, a fine gorge h m. in length, about 3 m. from the central Rly. Stat. Following the road to St. Barthelemy (plan A. 3), where many English lie buried, a rough path soon turns N. into the defile. Pedestrians may climb on the 1. bank beyond the cascade to the top of Mont Giana (fine view), and return by the Aspremonte road, passing several picturesquely situated springs. To the left on the descent is seen the Villa of the Mar¬ quis de Chateauneuf, at Gairaut, commanding a fine view of Nice, and containing portraits, by Mignard, of Madame de Se'vigne and others. The high road passes the village of Be Bay, and returns to Nice by St. Maurice (plan A. 3), a round of about 3 hrs. The valley of Hepaticas (Vallon des Fleurs) may be reached out of the path leading from Falicon to Cimiez. d. Cimiez (430 ft.),s^ 2 m. N. of Nice, the Civitas Cemeneliensis of the Ro¬ mans, and once the capital of the Maritime Alps, may be reached, in a carriage, by a hilly road from Cara- bacel (A. 4), or by a longer but more gradual ascent along the road towards St. Pons (A. 5). The former road as¬ cends rapidly between high garden walls which exclude all view, and bi¬ sects the well-preserved ruins of a small Roman Amphitheatre, called by the peasantry the Tino delle Fade, or Bath of the Fairies; it is 70 yds. by 59, and could have contained about 4000 spec¬ tators. A short distance farther on the rt. is a Convent of Recollets (Reformed Franciscans), which is supposed to occupy the site of a temple. The IGth cent. Church contains a picture by Lodovico Brea, the only artist of any eminence whom Nice has produced. In front is a square planted with gigantic ilexes. Annexed to the con¬ vent is a disused burying-ground. In the Garden is a very interesting sun¬ dial and clock, made by a scientific friar of the convent. The arrangement of Roman baths may here be seen in the dilapidated ruins of the Caldariinn Tepidarium Hypocaust. Cimiez also preserves some prehistoric walls. Nearly a mile further is the large Abbey of St. Pons, rising above the rt. bank of the Paglione, with a fine view. It was founded about the year 777 in honour of a Roman senator, martyred in 261. In the large church is a sar¬ cophagus and some inscriptions. The place is more celebrated as having witnessed the assembly of the inhabi¬ tants of Nice in 1388, when they declared for Ainedeus VII. of Savoy. 2 m. beyond St. Pons is the Castle of St. Andre, a very picturesque ruin, surrounded by plantations of aloes and cacti. A cypress avenue leads hence 28 Houle 2. — Levens — Villefrauclte. in I hr. to the Gkotto (50 c.), a natural Tunnel 38 yds. long and 25 ft. high. The so-called petrified casts made and sold at the spring are curious. Tliey are obtained by placing a mould in sulphur under the spring for some months. Crossing the torrent, the pedestrian may reach in J hr. the village of Falicon, on a height, com¬ manding a splendid view. This was formerly the best point for tlie ascent of Monte Calvo or Mont Chauoe (2800 ft.), easily made in H hr. by a stony footpath up the S.W. hank of tlie mountain. The view from the top is extensive and fine, but the hill has been fortified, and can no longer be ascended. To the N. of it, on a height, is the large village of Aspremont, li m. from Nice. e. 7 m. from Nice, along the road which passes through St. Pons and St. Andre, is Tourette, with picturesque ruins of a Castle. 5 min. beyond it a path turns N.E., ascending in an hour to the very curious village of Chateau- neuf (1675 ft.), deserted for want of water. Magnificent *vicw. The descent may be made in ^ Contes (2000), with vineyards and orange-groves, on a pi’oinontory to the N.E., whence an omn. ]uns twice a day (1 fr. 50 c.) to (10 m.) Nice. f. 3 hrs. N.E. of Nice is J*ei7/on, and an hour beyond it Feille, two pic¬ turesquely situated villages perched upon rocky heiglits; lilvc Eza (see below), they were originally strong- liolds of the Saracen pirates who in¬ fested the coast. To reach them follow the 1. bank of the Paillon to (4 m.) Trinite, and then turn (rt.) up the Vallon de Laghet for an hour; at the Pilgrimage CJiurch (Rte. 14) ascend to the 1. over the Cinie de la Caiissiniere (1035 ft.). Peillon (Ital. Veglione') stands on a conical rock high above a ravine, and is marvellously pictur¬ esque. But the most striking *view is that of the village (1360 ft.) itself, gained from a little platform at the base of a precipice, with a fine range of snow mountains in the background. 1 lir. S. of Peillon is Turhia (see below). From Peille a direct road leads in 3 hrs. to Nice, zigzagging down the slope to the valley of the Paillon. 1 hr. S.E.E. of Peille is Gorhio (see p. 33). g. 37 m. N. of Nice is the finely situa¬ ted village of St. Martin Lantosque (3130 ft.). The dil. goes by night. The road passes St. Andre and Tourette (see above), and reaches 14 m. Levens (1927 ft.),S^ beyond which it threads the romantic valley of the Vesubie, mounting high above the 1. bank of the river. 18 m. Duranus. Opposite, on a height to the 1. (2640 ft.), rises the old town of Utelle (1850). The rare Potentilla saxifraga and Saxifraga lanfoscana may be gathered on rocks near the stream, just below. 28 m. Lantosque,at the mouth of a ravine. A mile farther is JBollena,^ where are some mineral Springs, and 2 m. beyond it Belvedere (2820 ft.),S^ both places lying off the road to the rt. 32 m. Roquebilliere,S^ | m. beyond which a road turns 1. to (3 m.) Berthe^ mont, a summer resort with Batlis. Passing high up on the 1. the pretty village of Venanson, we reach 37 m. St. Martin Lantosque (Rte. 16), with cold Sulphurous Baths, much frei[uented in the summer, and afford¬ ing a convenient centre for many in¬ teresting excursions. Hence may bo reached in 6 hrs. the Baths of Valdleri, passing over the Col delle Cerese (8410 ft.). See Handbook for Northern Italy (Rte. 9). li. Steamer from Nice once a week in 12 hrs. to Bastia in Corsica, aud another in 21 hrs. to Ajaccio', hours of departure liable to change. i. Villefranche,S^the most interesting of all the excursions for beautiful scen¬ ery, should be approached by road, as the Rly. reaches it through a tunnel. There is a choice of three routes. The New Road (omn. from the Pont Vieux, on the 1. bank of the Paglione, every 2 hrs., 30 c.) begins at the Place Cas¬ sini, N. of the Port, climbs tlie hill of Mont Boron till just beyond tlie Chateau Smith, aud then descends to (3 m.) Yillefranche. 29 Iloutc 2 .— ViUeframlie — Bcanlicit. Tlie Forest lload turns oif from tlie New lioad at the top of Mont Boron, just beyond the Chateau Smith, winds tlirough the wood, and descends to fall in with the old Villefranche road. The old road leads to the foot of Mont Boron, the hill of coral rag, which separates the Bay of Nice from that of Villefranche. An ascent of 450 ft. through olive groves leads to the Col de Villefranche. Instead of proceed¬ ing immediately to Villefranche, the traveller will do well to take a path on the rt., which in a few minutes will bring him to the Fort of Montalhan, on the highest point of the range of Mont Boron (950 ft.), which separates the two bays, and from which, or a little farther S., near some ruined buildings, he will see the whole coast-line from near San Remo on the E., by Ventimiglia, Mentone, and jNIonaco, to St. Tropez on the W., including Antibes and the island of Ste. Marguerite. O Villefranche f4200) owes its foun¬ dation to Charles ir. of Anjou, King of Naples and Count of Provence, in the 13th cent. It is near the head of a lovely bay, about 2 m. long by 14 broad, offering an anchorage for vessels of the largest size. Before the Go¬ vernment of Piedmont became pos¬ sessed of Genoa and its maritime territory, Villafranca was the naval arsenal first of the Dukes of Savoy and then of the Kings of Sardinia ; it contains a harbour enclosed by a mole, with slips, barracks, storehouses; but the cham>;e of frontier has diminished its importance. Commanding the dock is an extensive fortified castle, and a Lazzaretto. Though so close to Nice, the climate is much milder, seldom affected by the cutting mistral, or l)y the blasts from the snow-capped Alps. Orange, lemon, and carouba- trees abound in its territory, and its beautiful gulf is not only rich in fish for the table, but furnishes a very ample field for the student in zoology, fj’om the abundance and variety of its ! marine mollusca and zoophytes. The beautiful road goes on to (1J m.) Beaulieu (see below), passing through woods of orange-trees, olives of unusual size, carouha, and pistachio: at the distance of about a mile it suddenly emerges on the Bay of St. Jean, and a very agreeable path, which strikes off on the rt. along the top of the cliff, will bring the tourist to the small village of St. Jean, on the E. side of the peninsula of St. Hospice, which forms a second tongue of land jutting out in an E. direction. The S.E. extremity of the peninsula is crowned by a circular fort, the remains of fortifica¬ tions razed by the Duke of Berwick in 1706, at the foot of which is the Chapel of the patron saint, a recluse, who died in the tower where he was immured in the 6th cent. It was on this portion, called Fraxinet, that the Saracens established themselve.s, and were only expelled in the 10th cent. In the bay between Cape St. Hospice and Beaulieu, opposite St. Jeau, is the Madragne or I'lcnnij-Jisherg of Nice; it is in activity from I’ebruary until the autumn, and, beine: the one most accessible to the passing traveller along the shores of the IMeditcrraucan, will well repay the trouble of a visit; no other exists W. of Genoa. Thelarge,-t lizards found in Europe are plentiful on Cap Eerrat, the S. extremity of the ])euinsula, which is planted with ti’ees and surmounted by a Ligldliouse (flOO j. For the celebrated Cornice Road, see Rte. 14. The Rly. avoids the town of Nice by a tunnel, on coming out of which it crosses the valley of the Baglione and reaches the suburban Stat. of Biqnier. Beyond this it enters a longer tunnel under the hill of IMont Boron. 143 m. Villefranche-sur-Mer (.see above). The train now traverses the peninsula of Beaulieu, passing some remarkably large olive-trees, to 144 m. Beaulieu,a small watering- place sheltered from the mistral and N. wind by the rocky heights of La Petite Afrique. Here tlie Marquis of 30 Houte 2 .— Eza — Monaco, Salisbury, Mr. Bail’d, Mr. E. Cutler, and other English people have built villas. Lord Salisbury’s Villa, grey with red shutters, stands a mile above the Stat. on the left. 146 m. Eza (560),at the base of precipitous limestone cliffs, on a pin¬ nacle of which the village with its ruined * Castle, once a robber-nest of the Saracens, is most picturesquely situated. The restored Church is said to stand on the site of an ancient Temple of Isis, from which the name of the village may be derived. Ascent from the Stat. by a romantic path in IJ hr. Thence to the Cornice road in 1 hr. (Rte. 14). 148 m. Turbia,s^ a Winter Resort above the sea. The Stat., however, is chiefly used to bring supplies to the Fort constructed by the French on the summit of the THe de Chien (1890 ft.), which rises above it, and commands one of the most sweeping coast views in the whole Riviera, This mountain, together with Mont Chauve, Mont Agel, and the Escarene, near Sospello, have been strongly fortified by the French as a species of Quadri¬ lateral, and their summits are no longer accessible to strangers. Artists also should beware of sketching in the neighbourhood. The Village of Turbia stands IJ hr. N. of the Stat. (see above). Near the Stat. are some prehistoric Walls. Two tunnels lead to 150 m. MONACO (2800).^ The Stat. is situated above La Conda- mine, which lies on the shore of a little bay, between Monte Carlo and the old rock-built town of Monaco. Monaco, the smallest European Principality, is now reduced to the town itself, and to a territory of barely 3 sq. m. Seen from the N. it presents a highly picturesque appearance, still surrounded by the old fortifications erected under Louis XIV., and flanked with batteries commanding its pretty bay, in the little harbour of which English and other yachts are often moored. It is the only part of its prince’s dominions over which he still retains any authority: his flag, a shield supported by two monks, in allusion to the name of Monaco (Monachus), may be seen floating over its castle whilst he resides in it. History.— The site is of remote antiquity, the foundation of the town being attributed by some writers to the Greeks, even to Hercules, who undertook several expeditions to the coasts of Liguria; it is frequently alluded to as the Monoeci Portus, and is noticed in the Antonine Itinerary, under the name of Portus Herculis Monoeci. The history of the principality is obscure; in 1162, the Emperor Fre¬ derick Barbarossa appears to have granted it to the Republic of Genoa for the part taken in expelling the Saracens from Provence and this part of Liguria, and the Genoese commune erected a fort which became a refuge alternately for its Guelf or Ghibelline exiles. In the 14th cent. Monaco passed into the hands of the familv of Grim- aldi, and the place became a haunt of buccaneers, who infested this part of the Mediterranean. Carlo Grimaldi was a foremost leader in the Italian wars of his time, and as a mercenary ill the service of France appeared against Edward III. at the battle of Crecy (1346) with the 15,000 Genoese bowmen whose destruction drove him home, where, by piracy, he accumu¬ lated wealth enough to add Mentone and Roccabruna to his dominions. In 1505 Prince John II. was murdered by his brother Lucian Grimaldi, and the latter fell in 1523 by the hand of his nephew. The reigning family became extinct in the male line in 1731, in the person of Antonio Grimaldi. Louise Hippolyte, the daughter and heiress of Antonio I., married Jacques Leonor de Goyon, Sire de Matignon, who took the arms and name of Grimaldi, and after his wife’s death in 1732, reigned under the name of Honorius III .; he was suc¬ ceeded by Honorius IV. in 1795. To him was born Prince Charles Honore III.; he assumed the title, not how- 31 Moute 2 .—Monte Carlo. 1 ! i I i ever witliout discussion, but by the exertions of his relative Prince Tal¬ leyrand, he was acknowledged by the Congress of Vienna in 1814. He was succeeded by Honorius V. in 1819, the latter by Florestan I. in 1841. In 1848, Mentone and Kocca- bruna proclaimed themselves free towns. Charles III. succeeded Flo- restan in 1856, and in 1861 ceded his sovereign rights over Mentone and Roccabruna to France for the sum of 4,000,000 fr. He also consented to a contract with IM, Blanc, by which the latter obtained the Concession des Jeux, and founded the present Casino. Charles III. died on Sept. 10th, 1889, and was succeeded by his son Albert I. This much-to-be-regretted concession will be in force until 1919, and the ( new sovereign is bound by it. The inhabitants of Monaco pay no ' taxes. The territory consists of three i parts, the old town of Monaco, Conda- ' mine, and Monte Carlo; with a gross . Pop, of 10,000. The old town is most picturesquely situated on the level top ! of a rock, about | m. long and 160 ft, ! higli, in’ojecting into the sea, and pre¬ cipitous on all sides. The Palace crowns the N. end of the rock, and is a construction of various dates, with bastions, and drawbridges. Part was built in 1542, upon the site of a more ancient edifice. The rest is a good specimen of 17th and 18th cent, architecture. The marble staircase is fine, and the fres¬ coes in one gallery are attributed to Caravaggio, though little of the original design remains. Another gallery is covered with frescoes, the work of the Genoese Carlone ; one of the doors from this gallery leads into the room where the Duke of York, brother of George HI., died of malig¬ nant fever, Sept. 17th, 1767; another into the room where Lucian Grimaldi was murdered (sec above). This last was walled up, and not re-opened until 1869. A third door leads into the Grimaldi hall, a state chamber of good proportions and handsomely decorated with a fine white marble Renaissance chimney-piece, covered with excellent j bas-reliefs. The chapel has some good frescoes and Roman mosaics. The chateau and beautiful *Gardens are open to visitors on certain days (see Index) when the Prince is not in residence. Overlooking the sea and the port are some dismounted brass guns, presented by Louis XIV. to his ally, the Prince of Monaco, and a few other antiquated specimens of cannon, some of which are English. At the other end of the rock is a *Public Garden, with lovely terraces overhanging the sea. On the S. side of the town is the Cathedral of St. Nicolas, rebuilt on the site of the old one by M. Blanc, the founder of the Gambling Tables, who made 2| millions sterling by them, It is 225 ft. long, and is a very excel¬ lent exami3le of modern Romanesque. In the rt. transept is a good painting of the patron Saint, between SS. Michael, Stephen, Lawrence, and Mary Magda¬ lene, with smaller subjects. Condamine, in the depression be¬ tween Monaco and Monte Carlo, has a small Port, and an Establishment of Sea-Baths. The Rly. crosses a viaduct, and passes through a tunnel and a deep cutting, to reach 151 m. MONTE CARLO.S^ (Lift from the Stat. to the terrace in front of the Casino.) A Roman milestone from the neighbourhood has been placed close to the Stat. Monte Carlo owes its existence en¬ tirely to M. Blanc, who built in 1865 the handsome Casino, in wdiich trente- et-quarante and roulette are played as in former days at Homburg and Wies¬ baden. It is reached from the Stat. by ahandsome fiight of stairs,and contains a large entrance-hall, reading-room, Concert Room, sumptuously furnished, to accommodate 800 persons, and an orchestra of 80 select musicians, who play twice a day. The reading-room is open to all. On the 1. of the entrance is the Office where visitors give their names and addresses in order to obtain a Card of Admittance. The building has been much enlarged since INI. 32 lloufe 2 .—Mentone : Climate, Elanc’s time, and somewhat over¬ decorated . Tile G ambling Rooms con¬ tain eight Tables for Roulette (stakes from 5 to GOOO fr.), and two for Trente- et-quarante (20 to 12,000 fr.). The bullion and other treasure in the pos¬ session of the Bank is sunk in shafts below the building, and 7000Z. is served to each Roulette Table daily. IMonte Cai lo has at least this advantage over gaming tables at private Clubs and elsewhere, that nobody need play unless be likes, and nobody can gamble on credit. Concerts take place daily at 2.30 and 8.30, lasting 1J hr. In the height of the season there is a Classical Concert every Thursday. At other times the music, though exquisitely performed, is scarcely worthy of so admirable an Orchestra, and a somewhat undue preference is given to works of the French School, The repertoire, more¬ over, is scanty, and seldom changed. The Reading-room, on the npi^er floor, is well supplied with newspapers in many languages. A superb little Theatre, with marble columns and other rich decorations, was opened in 1881 (Ch. Gamier, arch.). The cliff at the sea-front of the Casino has been laid out iu terraces, and planted with palm-trees and aloes, which grow luxuriantly. At the foot, prejecting into the sea, is a grassplat, raised on arches, and used chiefly for pigeon-shooting. On Ihe other side of the Casino are beautiful Gar¬ dens and a boulevard, on which build¬ ings are too rapidly rising. Above the town, on the hill of Les Mulcts, are some prehistoric Walls. Exquisitely beautiful Walks and Drives may be taken in all directions. The pedestrian may ascend in hr. to the Cornice road (Rte, 14) at I^a Tuibia. Thence along a by-road in IJ hr. to Eza, and in ^ hr. to the Stat. below the village, returning to (5 m.) Monte Carlo by road or train. Mont Agel (3770 ft.), *N.E. of Turbia, may be climbed in 3 hrs. Fine *view from the slopes (see p, 30). Omn. daily between Nice and the Casino. A good carriage road of 5 m, leads to Blentone, commanding lovely views. It passes between the lofty situated village of Bocedbruna (Rte. 14) and the wooded promontory of Cap Martin, to which a by-road branches oft‘ on the rt. (see below), 156 m. M E N T 0 N E {Menton),p situated on the streams of the Borrigo and Carei, which descend from the mountains, is a favourite invalid resort in winter, when its Population swells from 10,000 to 13,000. It consists of an old town, which oc¬ cupies the steep slopes of a hill projecting into the Mediterranean, and a modern one, stretching in a broad street nearly 3 m. long, around the shores of two bays, E. and W. of the old town. The terrible Earth¬ quake of Feb. 1887 overthrew mveral houses between the modern town and the Rly., while those in the old town escaped. Into the West Bay flow three streams, the Carei, tlie Borrigo, and the Gorbio. A fourth flows down the beautiful Val de IMenton, and is carried to the sea iu pipes under the town. The East Bay is perhaps best suited for in¬ valids, being more protected from the mistral. Tire steep narrow streets of the old town are quaint and pictui-- esque, and stretch down to the pro¬ montory on which stands an old Genoese Fort. Here and there frag¬ ments of the old walls may be seen in the houses. The Climate of IMentone is one of the mildest on the Idgurian seaboai d, and perhaps better ealculated for in¬ valids than Nice, as, fogs being un¬ known, the sky is generally cloudless ; and the N.W, wind, or mistral, is little felt, in consequence of the town being sheltered by a semicircle of moun¬ tains in the direction from which the wind blows. The extremities of these mountains extend to the sea, the lower hills being covered with gardens of lemon and olive-trees, the former bh ssoming during the greater part of T H E RIVIERA_MO NACO TO SAN REMO U/Of. Cro^'deiSos,ia'l 'Giordano' CXh^iu^ Cianus '■ioru.! J ,,era‘t. V0i-vnZo35 cUcjjoaii .deilpali'^^v/ \''Gdlbvref •tofoj\’ ■S^oyaru^ TABG^ SJiocc ijnewiX mtijia. foziJ'". .* ' t JiPi'-dfilSiahcha -r^+ Y t.PoazcJ^ '60ml.l3B^ ?iiiita T.Caj-l. j.C^nair’ttt 'Tofrrl ‘l\uu'es^\y. ionte‘aik> ) 31 ^'Oai‘S insji^a ’ciarma' Onteria. Gou/x^l \:annoy / ■, Tujita di Capo Verde ^^eb'as] 333n\'.JiSS Puntadi Capoyero Madonna, tleUaPiLOta Ch,s^z^i fdiZore^^ JSOTE TO COLOURING OF FJiEVATION ( \^Is"TlMIGLL^ ■^Moptola infeidca?e VilZi JZwjbucry’ Metres 1800 1700 r*| 5905 Ewf.Feet - 557 7 - 5249 m 4921 - }S98 a 4205 3937 ■ 2609 ISOO Capo S.Ampeglio o Foraneo 1400 1300 f 1200 ^ 11 jC >0 - lOOO ^ Signal ^dehayieiJXe * -fraaitMonc I (rulnsj C. FFcuriuji 1909 1640 500 400 Engltslh Miles 328 Level NACO lolUce London. Jolm MDr*r^Albeiu6a>le Street. Cop^i^lit J. Barlhcilaiiiirw, Edrnf .■•^ > * . -n.*.. * V “\f - ■ nsi: v» • -. ' --rW • * ' r^TCT* ^ ' •' ^Mk. ' ' -^,1 ® >■' ^ ■ ' - . ‘ '•S'* ■ - X - *- cr" ' 'y . c-£-^i',^i- - ' • i &- Bitsi: / '■■S ^r}l4^Mondidie4 OWe/ieHvSJl *, Louhet r, 1 Biot . fe ClajLur •i Pz: ICL' Tour 37«9 'Vallauris uiBoica yiy k ■yx\ Csahxe ^ Gxiif/of ffy'-sy' Napjzivile 'xaoir %Fort Carre ^ Antibes P.^B(won G\ilf of ST Trope; C.cles iledes TOULON TO SAN REMO JRailwc^s campleieid , oonstfi etim Main. RoaxJs Cross Sziads . de Calercnisse 'I. I 'Esq uMaxLe £iA^iabk Mil6S \ ■ s y ■' r • . .tV ' f T/f. ( .y C . .... V, ■* :y a . . ■' { ": '> - ‘S-iJ - iVH i. -\f-i.\,.iyv7 - x- „ '-!V U.' '■ 7' i ;r/: > ; /,J!;vv U>^-. '“'■ -.„' •■ . X... ■ ::/'v;, .'K^t--'': " .''’I'r'-foi . -'•■ ■ • '■ • ■ Y‘.y7 yS ' -t 'i\ ■■ .■/>• .O-' ' « V«. u ..x.-5.r :; •^^b;vav; -,,*• ;.^ v' '■••♦if' :! ) li ■ • «A«^ i^i/^ ■ . V X',. , « ' V I •, -t' ,' '■'■ - • “I'.Vi.mtjV'fl ■’•' >i 'f •■ '\ -'i'-'.C. ^ '-J/ 1, ^ p. ■'* '•* I ,/• JU.4;' ■ m if - ' V . . ti !>}.., H'->* rv»l ' ’ vO' < ;>• 4 i • •>. ' oC ■'? ' -r:'V |- H->''.-,,; I! ' S-itt-'i,. ■»',»**'*\ 'Vt-».-»ta x- ! r ,.b-i «. »r, S«t L,._,-::''^^' ^ ':^v cv V,\ \v\ "r V \fv -l‘l 37 lioute 5 .—Cannes to Frejtis. mines of argentiferous lead, with beautiful quartz crystals. From Co- golin a visit may be paid to the pic¬ turesque ruins of the Chartreuse de la Verne. The high road is followed for 6 m, to the Chateau de la MoUe^ as¬ cending the 1. bank of the river. Thence a rough road leads by a tribu¬ tary stream in 3 hrs. to the Monastery, founded in the 12th cent. The pedes¬ trian may continue W. to (2 hrs.) Collobrieres (3G00),s^ and thence in 3 hrs. over a wooded ridge to Pignans Stat. (Kte. 2). St. Tropez (3600) is beautifully situated on the S. shore of its little gulf, at the foot of a wooded hill (535 ft.). On the Quai are some houses with curiously curved base¬ ments, built in the form of a break¬ water, and a bronze Statue of the Bailli de Sutfren (1729-88), distin¬ guished for his naval exploits in the wars against the English. On the 16-25th May is lieldhere the interest¬ ing Fete des Bravades, in celebration of a victory gained by the sailors of St. Tropez against the Spaniards in 1637. In the Church is some remark¬ able wood-carving. St. Tropez is said to have been one of St. Paul’s guards, who after his conversion was beheaded, and cast into a boat, which floated his body to these shores (see the carving, beyond the 2nd altar left). Nearly opposite the H. de Ville, close to the Church, is a beautifully-carved wooden door. The Fish-marhet is well worth a visit, and the walks in the neighbour¬ hood are attractive and varied. The dismantled Citadel, 10 min. behind the town, is very picturesque, and commands a beautiful view of the land¬ locked bay. Along this coast stretches a series of round Towers, 200 or 300 yds. apart, which probably served for signalling against attacks by purates in the middle ages. On the way between St. Tropez and La Foux stands the Pin de Bertaud, a remarkably large umbrella pine. Close to it is the Chateau Bertaud. 35 m. Grimaud (1800), an ancient fief of the Grimaldi family, rises in the form of a pyramid from the N.W. corner of the Gulf. Two round towers, girded with bands of serpentine, are all that remain of its 15th cent. Castle. Interesting Church, and celebrated well {Puits du Cros), hollowed out of the rock. [Omn. to Le Luc (p. 17).] 39 m. Ste. Maxime (1400),a pic¬ turesque village on the N. shore of the gulf, is rising in importance as a winter resort, and has several villas. The train now runs inland to La Nar- telle, and then skirts the sea, crossing the river to 50 m. Frejus (Sud) Stat., at some little distance S. of the town (Rte. 2). Striking thence across the plain, and passing over the P. L. M. Ely., it reaches 52 m. St. Raphael (Sud) Stat. (Rte. 2). ROUTE 5. CANNES TO FREJUS, BY THE ESTEREL MOUNTAINS.—CARKf AGE-ROAD. The singular group of the *Esterel Mountains, known to all travellers on the Riviera by their picturesque out¬ line, especially from the side of Cannes, are seldom explored. Mr. Gladstone refers to them in the following terms: “ Dante during his exile . . . crossed the mountains which divide Italy from Gaul . . . These mountains wmre with¬ out doubt the beautiful Esterel, which in their own portion of the Riviera cut off the line of passage by the coast at no great distance from the old frontier; and those who now fre¬ quent their bewitching passes may enjoy them all the more from knowing that they w^ere once trodden by one of the rarest of human beings.” (‘ Nine¬ teenth Century,’ June, 1892.) The Esterels arc chiefly composed of red porphyry, unstratified schists, and serpentine. They form an isolated mass, about 9 miles by 7, furrowed 38 JRoide 6 .—Geneva to Marseilles. by deep valleys and clothed with verdure, except where the rocks rise into bare pinnacles, or ridges, or domes. Occasionally they appear worn into strange shapes of teeth, or scooped out into caverns. A great fire in 1835 destroyed much of the forest, which consists chiefly of pinus mari- tima, cork, and oak, together with a dense underwood of cistus, heath, and arbutus. There are no carriage-roads, except the main thoroughfare between Cannes and Frejus; but rough paths and cart-tracks intersect each other in all directions, plunging into wooded depths, and rising continually to fresh points of view. The Inns are few, the best being at the N. foot of Mont Vinaigre, and at Le Trayas, both of which afford good headquarters for the pedestrian. The best sea-view is gained from the summit of Cap Roux. On quitting Cannes, the road runs "VV. to (2 m.) La Bocca (Rte. 2), where are some good stone pines and a view of Cannes between red porphyry rocks. Nearly 2 m. beyond La Bocca is St. Cassien, with its chapel on an isolated mound covered with trees. There are some fine specimens of cy¬ press and Finns pinea. St. Cassien is the patron Saint of Cannes, and a grand Festival is held in his honour on the 23rd July. Further on the road crosses the Siagne by a stone bridge. This river supplies the town of Cannes with abundance of excellent water, by means of aqueducts and canals. The road now turns S. to G m. Le Tremblant, on the Itiou, where the ascent begins. | hr. S.S.W. is La Maure Vieille, a group of houses at the head of a stream in a pictu¬ resque but lonely spot. 1 hr. N.E. of it is Napoule, on the coast, 6 m. W. of Cannes. A mile beyond Le Tremblant, at the kil. stone marked 115, a rough road leads left in 1 hr. to the summit of the Blarsaou (1820 ft.), in the heart of the Esterels. The carriage-road winds up by the (12 m.) Font de VEspantier to the 13 m. Auberge de VEsterel (830 ft.). 1^ m, further, after a rise of 200 ft., a path turns off left, and leads in 1 hr. to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre (2030 ft.), marked by a rough round tower 6 ft. high, and a flagstaff. The *view is extensive in all directions, but the beautiful coast line is not so well seen as from Cap Roux (p. 18). [Paths leading through beautiful porphory defiles conduct the pedes¬ trian to Agay or Letrayas (Rte. 2).] The carriage-road now descends, bear¬ ing for a while due S., and then runs S.S.W., leaving Valescure on the left, to 22 m. Frejus (Rte. 2). ROUTE 6. GENEVA TO MARSEILLES, BY AIX-LES- BATNS, GRENOBLE, MEYRARGUES, AND AIX-EN-PROVENCE. Miles. Stations. Routes. Geneva b 13 Pougny-Chancy 22 Bellegarde b 42 Culoz5 .... 11 56 Aix-les-Bains b . . 11 65 Chambery 74 Montmelian b 83 Le Cheylas la Bussiere 86 Goncelin-Allevard 101 Gieres-TJriage 105 Grenoble 6 . . . 7 no Pont de Claix 117 St. Georges de Commiers 119 Vif 132 Monestier de Clermont 138 St. Michel les Portes 141 Clelles Mens 147 St. Maurice en Trieves b 157 Lus la Croix Haute 161 St. Julien en Beauchene 165 La Faurie 174 Veynes b 193 Laragne 204 Sisteron 215 St. Auban ... 7 227 La Brillanne 236 Manosque 258 Pertuis b 261 Meyrargues . . 8 jRoutc JBosoix IcLGloiderc ei-sseou ■dillei 'uic MaijMert, m h-t 4 oi 432in , list) / icjons : VenadDflr CiiMel di* Qiiiol /es I SlTiiV. O lonyfh Fainjf'.Tve tOUtQns^ ■fSS in., isoe T 'Bjourt CIiitAihurds /iBHagntirep jk^^vets', %' zaini'. >: _ \ fesl’nilifipoiis' 'Pelicoitet 314 m: j:P30 i Stihunii^n. 3 ^del' Ester e EUrybaud., F BiistU :(}oueg\ 'Eontde I'bsptuut } t ChapeUe. Brigitte ion f . loZbuif/. SKTeahK /le Pin fl.e. ( Hanging 'fo 5 m.o / 3^ t. / usoni .391 f IdeJr GmiennieV Sernertesi) ST tiiilXarsaoTi *552 niaeiLi''. IPSiru 640 7 .Oondiiv 310 m. 1017 . f. 2o:3Jt.^5 fy 5 }laur^Tl^Clle i<439ir(. J44^ i' Flape dt lal^apoulc ‘.waoit *62Tn^ v^ViJi'Bro Ttehn tr, V/. ^ -■C^^w.'FSfc 3/?“ CA^rsi:^\My^ 1 llouUlaae de Theoule Hatterie deTheoulS 300 nt. 334 /' EaJbrique ri. \437nuM34-fl fgoituguous Gixttte )■ 1 de. I Ours ' ^ llncherde la ( jtes Grands vSaous 2,70 7 iv, 33(3 leL iondeJUer edeVOurs Gre'ni’u.v Figueirette Pointes des Trgyas !al delmtis -J ...A .„. y %. Il» Iwr*! i:; ; V'i.. ij«|:!':ii;.’.r' Tcfirri:* tiU' ■' • S'J. Er^»v4 •'■’ >i.‘. .;•,. -i’. k-.i. .v.\tf ir iiji ‘J-r Uf t.'i 1'*. <*1 UU' ‘ -; t-iint, : t>v. ■ lit It I?-’ ^ ‘T-i^l'^. f ■; ''‘r^ ■» k’’^ * '■^', ■'/ ‘ ^ •J- It ti^UU'' i:i ', A -•«• * ' |/;iV [t : '. iu . it(Li‘<) ^ -. r~ i Ubiet i\>itiif U ill 1578. . 1^', - h tht PUl^ Sl.'iiU;' •'ll L-'- .a .4 '• ihv a--- |h ‘~Tr - *% 'iu^ ~^rr '3>*-g'r?/ ■" • .?;• . , -4 -i rr-n-.-^ .M*r ■!<. :■- t ■•.,r o !ir.i. ■J’’ n -e r.A... !'. • a jir' f^n At.vAi. I'.. i* n IchAnM ^ 'f^ - ■ - ir - ■ .V ■ _ ■ i' ^ 70 V .^W*ih4i« a/#^ %:J*m S^'’t' r. C *» *^- ■ V ■i Boute 11 .— Moncalieri — Genoa, 55 The Superga, or burial-place of the Savoy Princes, built in 1717-31, is reached by steam tram\Yay from the Piazza Gastello to (30 min.) Sassi (1080 ft.), and thence by Funicular Kly. in 30 min. to the summit (2555 ft.). The latter line is very nearly 2 m. in length, passes through two tunnels, and is con¬ structed in bold curves with a steep gradient. On the 8th Sept, is held an imposing Service of Thanksgiving. Fine view. Steam Tramway S.W. to (6 m.) StupinigijS^ a royal shooting box, in a large and beautiful Park. On quitting Turin, the Ely. runs S. to 498 m. Moncalieri (5500), with a fine square brick Palace. Thence S.E. to Trofarello, and E. to 529 m. Asti (32,000).Leaving the Stat., in 5 min. we reach the Church of S. Secondo. Good front of brick and marble ; three Gothic doorways. In the Corso Vitt. Emanuele is the House of Alfieri, in which the poet was born on Jan. 17th. The Cathedral (1348) has a good W. front and S. porch, a nave, aisles, and Choir, with short transepts, and some paintings by Macrino d’Alba (1498). From the N. aisle a door leads to the ancient and curious Church of S. Giovanni. At the E. extremity of the city is the Church of S. Pietro, to the rt. of w'hich opens an octagonal Baptistery (cir. 1050), said to occupy the site of a Temple of Diana. The river Tandro is crossed by a bridge of 15 arches, and the fortifications are skirted, just before reaching 551 m. ALESSANDRIA (58,000),S^ a strongly fortified city, and an important Ely. centre. Beyond Novi (11,000)s^ the line ascends, and at Serravalle reaches the foot of the Apennines. The Ely. follows the windings of the Scrivia, crossing it repeatedly, and passing through several tunnels. At the Bocchetta, or narrowest part of the ravine, the scenery is strik- ingly grand. 579 m. Ronco. Here the Ely. divides. The old line ascends to Busalla^ and pierces the Apennines by a tunnel nearly 2 m. long. Our Ely. almost immediately enters a longer and safer Tunnel (3^ m.), on emerging from which at Mignanego the old line is seen below to the left. Several fine viaducts and short tunnels carry the Ely. down to the junction of the two lines at 595 ni. Sampierdarena,S^ a populous and busy suburb of Genoa. In the prin¬ cipal Church is a Flight into Egypt, by Cambiaso. The Palazzo Spinola is an excellent specimen of a Genoese villa. Steam Tramway to Pontedeciino. A tunnel under the projecting hill which bounds the bay of Genoa on the W., and whose headland bears a conspicuous lighthouse (^Lanterna), now leads to GENOA. PAGE Accademia delle Belle Arti (Jl Acquasola Gardens (16 Albergo del Poveii 66 Andrea Doria, Memorials of 65 Archbishop’s Palace . 60 Arsenal. 57 Balilla, Statue of . . . 62 Banco di San Giorgio . 57 Cainpo Santo .... 66 Cathedral . 58 Churches:— S. Agostino .... 60 S. Ambrogio .... 60 Annunziata .... 64 -di I’ortoria . 62 S. Cosma. 57 S. Donato. 60 S. Giovanni di Prd . . 57 S. M. di Carignano . . 60 S. M. di Gastello 57 S. M. delle Yigne . . 58 S. Matteo. 61 S. Siro. 58 S. Stefano .... 62 Columbus, Monument to 57 -, Statuette of . 57 Dockyard . 56 Exchange . 5S Funicular Railway 66 Galleria Mazzini . . . 61 Harbour. 56 Hospital of St. Andrew . 66 -Pamatone . 62 Library . 62 Lighthouse . 56 Lunatic Asylum . 66 Orefici, Via degli . . . 58 Palazzo Adorno . . . 62 ■-Balbi-Senarega . 64 - Bianco .... 63 --Briguole Sale . 63 -Cambiaso . 62 56 Route 11 .— Genoa: Harbour. Palazzo della Casa. . -Carrega. -Cattaueo - lloria . -Ducale . -Durazzo • -Giorgio Doria . -Marcello Durazzo -Municlpale -Pdllavicini -Pared i . -Ileale . -Kosso . - Serra • -- Spinola . -dell’ Universita Pamatone, Hospital . Piazza Corvetto . . Pink Gaol .... Porta Pila .... -Vacca . Reliefs ou Houses . . Scuole Tecniche . Sperone, Fort . Theatre. University .... Via di Circonvallazione Villa Scoglietto Villetta di Negro . PAGE . 62 . 62 . 57 . 65 . 60 . 65 . 62 . 64 . 63 . 62 . 62 . 65 . 63 . 63 . 62 . 65 . 62 . 66 . 66 . 66 . 56 . 59 . 61 . 56 . 61 . 6') . 66 . 66 . 66 597 m. GENOA (190,000),rising in tlie form of an ancient Theatre from the sea, and justly styled .La Superha. The climate is healthy, and the atmosphere usually clear, but it is not a desirable place for persons suffering from chest complaints. Pegli, on the \V., affords a more sheltered residence, and Nervi, on the E., is still better protected. Genoa is the chief outlet on the Mediterranean for the manufactures of Switzerland, Lombardy, and Pied¬ mont ; and imports much cotton and sugar. About 12,000 sailing vessels and steamers, with an average of 500 tons each, enter the harbour annually. The trade of Genoa has doubled itself within the last 10 years, the annual imports being now valued at IG millions, and the exports at 4 millions sterling. As a proof of the increased activity of the Port may be cited the necessity of j^iercing the Apennines at Busalla with a second tunnel, the traffic on the single line having become wholly unmanageable. The deep and extensive Harbour is in-otected by two moles. It is some¬ what exposed to the S.E. wind and to the heavy swell which follows gales from that quarter; but is protected generally by a series of moles and piers, and has been furnished with commodious basins, at a cost of 14 million sterling, of which two-thirds were contributed by a legacy of the late Duke of Galliera. Genoa is now one of the first commercial ports in the Mediterranean, and a formidable river to Marseilles, especially since the enlargement of accommodation for the mercantile marine, by the removal of the naval arsenal to Spezia. The articles of manufacture peculiar to Genoa are gold and silver objects, especially filigree-work, velvet, arti¬ ficial fiowers, and coral ornaments. Embroidery on cambric and muslin is also carried to much perfection. An ample supply of excellent water is brought to the city partly by a mediaeval aqueduct, 25 m. long, which taps the Bisagno high up amongst the hills ; and partly ’by one which draws its current from the Scrivia (see above). The Port is closed from the sea by two piers, the Molo Veccliio E. and the Molo Nuovo W., the entrance to the harbour between the pier-heads being 550 yds. wide. At the S. ex¬ tremity of the W. pier stands the lan- terna, 247 feet above its base, or 385 above the sea. The lighthouse should be ascended (I fr.) for its extensive *view and interesting reflectors, which are visible 20 m. to seawnrd. On the N. side of the harbour is the Varsena (dockyard and arsenal), now fast dis¬ appearing to make room for berths along the quay. In 1861, the Italian Government made Spezia the principal naval depot, and the activity which used to reign here has in consequence declined. Some of the ancient gates are yet standing. Such is the *Porta Vacca, a fine and lofty arcli between two towers, leading fj om the Piazza Darsena (p. 57) into the Via del Gampo (B. 4). The Eamparts afford agreeable pro¬ menades, and are connected on the E. with the Acquasola Garden. One of the most important of the outlying forts is the great citadel of Sperone (1650 ft.) 4 m. due N. of the Houte 11 .— Genoa: S. M. di Castello. 57 town. An extensive system of de¬ tached redoubts has been added on every peak from whicli the city or its defences can be threatened. An interesting walk of 10 m. may be taken round the fortifications, following the road on the inner side, from the Lanterna (C. 1) to the Forte dello Sperone, passing a chain of Forts on the way. Tlie road, which com¬ mands fine prospects over the town and harbour, and afterwards overlooks the encircling valleys of the Polcevera and Bisagno torrents, re-enters Genoa by the iron bridge over the latter stream (D. 6). On the E. side of the Piazza Darsena is the Porta Vacca (see above). Close to the Ely. Stat.,t in the irre¬ gular-shaped Piazza Acquaverde (A. 3), is a monument to Columbus, erected in 1862. But tradition assigns his actual birthplace to the village of Cogoleto, though Savona has lately claimed the honour. The monument consists of a huge square pediment, at the corners of which are seated figures of Geo¬ graphy, Discretion, Steadfastness, and Eeligion; higher up is a circular pe¬ destal decorated with prows of galleys, on which stands a marble group of Columbus and a woman representing America. Below are four reliefs, re¬ presenting events in the life of Co¬ lumbus. The inscription is in excel¬ lent taste ; it is simply “ A Cristoforo Colombo la Patria.” The Italians are naturally proud of the discoverer of America, although they took no part in his voyages ; and there is usually to be seen in the harbour some vessel bearing the illustrious navigator’s name. The narrow Via delle Mona- chette leads S. to the Church of San Giovanni di Pre (A. B. 4), founded by Sir William Acton in 1180, and rebuilt by the Knights of St. John, in the 13th cent. ; some of the round arches of the original edifice are still visible; the present entrance has been cut into the tribune at the E. extremity of the old Church, at a later period. Some remains of the ancient Cloisters may be yet seen, f See Note on Sights at Turin (p. 53). The CRYPT, now used as a warehouse, dates from 1261. IMost of the capitals are cushioned, Init some are carved, and these are of later character. The head of St. John the Baptist in a recess over the doorway, with an inscription round it, is very curious. The letters have smaller ones inserted in them, a custom of the 11th cent, or earlier. In the Land Arsenal (A. 3) are many curious objects: a rostrum of an ancient gallery, Eoman, or Car¬ thaginian, found in the port; a cannon of wood bound round with iron ; and a good store of halberts, partizans, and other weapons, many of unusual forms. W. of the Arsenal, in front of the Palazzo Doria, is a pleasant paved Terrace overlooking the harbour. In the Via Carlo Alberto, near the Piazza Darsena (A. B. 4), is a Statuette of Columbus in a niche, with an in¬ scription ; and beside it a small group representing Andrea Doria in the act of refusing the ducal crown (see Pal. Doria). The historical Banco di San Giorgio (B. 4), now under restoration, was the most ancient banking and trading company in Europe. It was founded in 1346, and is adorned with statues of local worthies. On the 1st floor are the Archives, but the building will ju’obably be converted into a Museum. The Palazzo Cattaneo, near the Church of San Giorgio (C. 4), has eight portraits by Vandych in a room on the second floor. S. Cosma (C. 4), a little further S., has a good round-headed doorway, six old columns in the nave, and a 14th cent. Virgin and Child on gold ground to the 1. of the high altar. A slight ascent leads hence to S. M. di Castello (C. 4), Lombardic in style (1150). The handsome nave has round arches, supported Iry ten granite columns with Corinthian and composite capitals, taken from some Eoman edifice. Good sculptures will be found inside the main doorway, at the 1st chapel 1., and at the en¬ trance to the Sacristy. There are two curious carved panels above the nave arches on the rt., of which a 58 Moutell. — Genoa: Cathedral. coiDy is affixed to the wall beyond the 2ad chapel on the same side. In the Bid chapel on the 1. is a curious 15th cent. Annunciation with SS. James, John B., Dominic, and George. In the 4th chapel on the rt., which is adorned with majolica, is a picture by Pier Francesco SaccM, of 88. John Baptist, Thomas Aquinas, and Antonino of Florence. In the Brd is a good painting of Dominican 8aints, with the Coronation of the Virgin above, by Lodovico Brea. The Cappella del Crocifisso, at the end of the 1. aisle, is so called from a curious wooden Crucifix bent in posture, and said to have been brought from the East during the Crusades. Here also is a marble pulpit; and on the rt. a Chapel with slab tombs, and a relief of 8t. George in the frame of the doorway. The choir contains tombs of the Giustiniani, protectors of this Convent, which belonged to the order of 8t. Dominic. In the cloister is a fresco of the Annunciation, by Justus de Allamagna (1451). Descending again towards the harbour, we reach the Exchange, or Loggia de* Banclii (B. 4), an interesting monument of the ancient commercial splendour of Genoa. It consists of a large hall, built by Galeazzo Alessi (1570-1596). The roof is a very bold eftbrt in con¬ struction. The fine marble 8tatue of Count Cavour is by Vela. In front is the place of meeting of the corn and oil merchants—an animated scene during the hours of business. The busy Via 8, Luca leads N. from hence to San Siro (B. 4), the most ancient Christian foundation in Genoa, and until 904 the Cathedral, under the title of the Basilica dei Bodici Ajpostoli, The actual Church exhibits few traces of the original edifice, but tlie campanile behind is of early date. The interior is handsome, in the Ke- naissance style. The best paintings are— Bernardo Gastello, The 8aviour in the Temple ; Pomarancio, Adora¬ tion of the Shepherds ; Gastello, St. Catharine of Siena; Nativity of the Virgin, by Aurelio Lomi (4th rt.). From the Exchange (Borsa), the *Via degli Orefici (B. 4) strikes through the heart of the old part of the city, deriving its name from the goldsmiths who inhabit it. At No. 131 is a picture of the Virgin and Children, with St. Eloy, patron saint of the smith’ craft, whether in gold, silver, or iron. It is upon stone, framed and glazed, and surmounted by a wrought canopy. It is attributed to Pellegro Piola (1607-30), and is said to have excited so much envy on the part of his master, Gastello, that he caused his pupil to be assassinated. The goldsmiths of Genoa excel in a beautiful fine Filigree, of silver, or silver gilt, which they work into bunches of flowers, butterflies, brace¬ lets, wreaths, and other articles, prin¬ cipally designed for female ornaments. These ornaments are very pretty, and are hardly to be procured out of Genoa. Over a door on the rt. (No. 128), ascending from the Port, is a 15th cent, ^relief of the Adoration of the Magi. S. M. delle Vigne, a little N. of the Via degli Orefici (B. 4), has a good 13th cent. Tower, figures of Christ with SS. Lawrence and George over a side door, a wooden Crucifix by Maragliano at the end of the N. aisle, and the remains of an 11th cent. Cloister on the N. Crossing the Via degli Orefici, any of the narrow streets ascending S. will lead to the *CATHEDEAL of San Lorenzo (C. 4). It was constructed in the 14th cent., but the doorways and other details of the previous building, erected in the 11th cent., were preserved, and used up as materials. The triple *W. doorway is transition work of about 1205. The N. and S. doorways also belonged to the earlier edifice, but have been much altered in the rebuilding, and fresh shafts or colonnettes were added to the outside of the S. doorway in 1311. The N. doorway was rebuilt in 1621. Two of the columns in the W. front are twisted palm-trunks. Among the Houte 11 .— Genoa: Cathedral. 50 vestiges of an early period are the curious ornaments on the N.j exhi¬ biting monsters and Runic knots, and some rude reliefs encrusted in the outer walls. Over the principal en¬ trance is a relief of the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, with some quaint figures of the 13th or 14th cent.; and several parts of the outer walls are Pagan reliefs, which formed the front of Roman sarcophagi. The lions of Carrara marble were placed at the W. front when the steps leading to it were restored. The handsome S. tower dates from the early part of the 16th cent., that on the N. being unfinished. The cujrola was erected by Alessi in 1567. The Nave (1307-12) is preceded by an elegant inner Gothic porch with a groined roof, formed of alternate courses of black and white marble; over this porch is a gallery for the Doge when he came to hear mass. The nave is separated from the aisles by Corinthian columns supporting nine pointed arches of brown Polce- vera serpentine; upon these arches rests an entablature with a long inscription in Gothic characters, over which rises a second tier of round arches. There is no triforium, pro¬ perly speaking, the wall of the arches being continued to the roof without an intermediate floor. The clerestory is pierced by mean square modern windows. Against the N. door is a fine Gothic Tomb. The arches of the nave end abruptly at the crossing, the Choir and false transepts being of Renaissance archi¬ tecture by Alessi. The high altar is decorated with a fine bronze statue of the Madonna and Child, by G. B. Bianco (17 th cent.); the marble statue of St. John the Evangelist is by Montorsoli. In the chapel at the end of the it. aisle is a Crucifixion with Sebastian and other saints, by Baroccio, a good work, with all the painter’s faults of prettiness. The Choir has beautifully carved stalls, with backs of coloured intars^a-^York. On the ceiling is a large frescoe, the Martyrdom of S. Lorenzo, by Teveronc, The ancient I manuscript choir-books are fine volumes of their kind. At the Palla- vicini Chapel on the 1. is a detached marble *Statue of a kneeling cardinal. The *Chapel of St. John Baptist, in the 1. aisle, was originally closed to females, except on one day of the year —a prohibition imposed by Innocent VIII., in recollection of the daughter of Herodius. The screen is of rich cinquecento or Renaissance (1496). The canopy over the altar, supported by four porphyry pillars, was erected in 1532 at the expense of Filippo Doria. The 11 statues, and the reliefs which adorn the external arch, are by Gugliehno della Porta. 8 niches in the interior are also filled with statues, 6 of which are by Matteo Cevitale (1435- 1501); the Madonna and Baptist are by Sansovino (1503). The altar is by Giacomo and Guglielmo della Porta. The relies of the saint are contained in an iron-bound chest, enclosed within a 13 th cent, marble coffer beneath the altar. On the 24th June they are carried in procession (see below). The next chapel, dedicated to the Holy Apostles, has an architectural design (1503) with statues by Gugl. Porta. In the Treasury is preserved the Sacro Catino, long supposed to be composed of a single piece of emerald, and also variously asserted to be a gift from the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, or the dish which held the Paschal Lamb at the Last Supper, or the vessel in which Joseph of Arimathea received the blood flowing from the side of the Redeemer. It was part of the spoils taken at Cmsarea in 1101. No stranger was allowed to touch the Catino, under heavy penalties: and the attempt to try the material by any test of its genuineness or hardness was punish¬ able with fines, imprisonment, or even death. Acute and sceptical travellers, as Keysler and the Abhe Barthclemy, in spite of these precautions, saw enough to lead them to suppose that the Catino was glass, which is now fully confirmed. But the perfection of the material, as well as of the woi’k- manship, must always cause it to be considered as a very remarkable monu¬ ment of remote antiquity. The dish Houte 11 .—Genoa : S. Amhrogio. CO is hexagonal, with some slight orna¬ ments, which appear to have been finished witli the tool, as in gem en¬ graving. The colonr is beautiful, the transparency perfect; but a few air bubbles sufficiently disclose the sub¬ stance of which it is made. The Catino was sent to Paris; and when reclaimed was so carelessly packed that it broke by the way. Tlie fragments have been united by a setting of gold fili¬ gree. The keys of the cabinet are kept in the Palazzo Municipale (fee, 5 fr.). Another valuable relic is the Cassone di San Giovanni, a shrine made in 1437 by Teramo di Daniele. It is a combination of Gothic panels, tracery, and finials of tlie most delicate workmanship in silver gilt. The sides are covered with the history of St. John in high relief. On the N., at No. 12, Via Arcives- covado, is a small 13th cent. Cloister of round arches, originally in two stories. Only the N. side and part of the W. remain. The Arcivescovado (Archiepiscopal Palace) contains some good frescoes by L. Cambiaso. At the upper end of the Via San Lorenzo is the Jesuit Church of S. Am- brogio (0. 4), now under restoration, and covered with showy marbles, mo¬ saics, gold, and colours. The 3i'd chapel on the rt. has a colossal Assumption by Guido Ileni, a powerful composi- tiou, with fine heads, “one of those masterpieces which leave one cold,” Cic. The Circumcision, over the higli altar, by Bubens, was painted before he came to Genoa, in ignorance of the height and the position whence it would be seen, and in it “he still struggles with the conception and colour of the Caracci,” Cic. *St. Ignatius healing a Demoniac, in the 1. aisle, “ is in conception, form, and colour of a refined noble naturalism, which immensely surpasses the Neo- jDolitans: in the Saint, for instance, the Spanish nobleman is still re¬ presented, his expression immensely brought out by the cunning inditferent character of the priests and chorister boys around liim,” Cic. The four fine Corinthian columns at the high altar are of Porto Venere marble. Nearly opposite, in the Piazza Nuova, is the Palazzo Ducale (C. 4), formerly the residence of the Doges of the republic, who held office for two years. The great dungeon tower, with its grated windows, is the only part of the 13th cent, building which now remains. The Palace now contains the law- courts, the prefecture, and offices con¬ nected with the public administration, as well as the telegraph office. The front is ornamented with columns, and statues of Gconese worthies. The great hall, 130 ft. by 55, has 56 columns and pilasters of broccatello marble, with yellow marble pediments. The Via Pollajuoli leads S. from the Piazza to San Donato (C. 4), built on the site of a more ancient edifice, twelve of whose columns, in granite and cipol- lino, it retains. Above them runs an open triforium of twin round aisles, divided ,by complex shafts, and com¬ municating with the aisles. At the end of the 1. aisle is an Adoration of the Magi, by a Netherlandish master. The octagonal bell-tower is of an early period. Further S. is S. Agostino (C. 4), now desecrated, with a good 14th cent, front of Genoese Gothic. The campanile, in alternate courses of white and black marble, is remarkable. The broad Via di Ponte Carignano (0. D. 4) leads over a noble viaduct between two hills, crossing the streets and houses below. At the S. ex¬ tremity is the Church of *S. M. di Carignano, finely situated on a hill, and built from Alessi’s designs (1552-1603), and endowed by the Sauli family. It is in the form of a Greek cross, with a lofty dome. Be¬ neath the cupola are four colossal statues, of which St. Sebastian and the blessed Alessandro Sauli are by Puget, The pictures, almost always covered, include : Guercino, St. Francis receiving the stigmata; Cambiaso, a large Deposition, on which the painter has “ put forth his whole strength; calmly, without any wild pathos, with¬ out any crowding, the event is de- JRoiite 11.— Genoa: San 3Iatteo. 61 velopcd in noble energetic forms of deep inward expression,” Gig. : Carlo Maratta, Martyrdom of S. Biagio ; Vanni of Siena, St. Catharine receiving the Sacrament. In the Sacristy is a remarkable picture of SS. John Bapt., Fabian, Sebastian, and Anthony the Hermit, with the Annunciation and Deposition above, and a predella of Christ and the Apostles, atttributed to Albert Diirer. A fine *view is obtained from the top of the cupola (50 c.). From the central Piazza Deferrari a short street descends W. to *San Matteo (C. 4), an interesting little Church, founded in 1125 by Martino Dorio, an ecclesiastic of the family. The front (1278) is a good specimen of Genoese Gothic, formed of alternate courses of black and , white marble.f Five of the white i courses bear inscriptions relating to , the achievements of the family. On I the pilasters are the Genoese and Doria shields, the red cross on a white ground and an eagle erect. Above the principal door is one of the very few mosaics still existing in Genoa. It I is in the ancient Greek style. The ■ interior was splendidly reconstructed I at the expense of the great Andrea I Doria : it consists of a small Nave and I aisles, with five arches supported by I composite columns of white marble: I behind the altar is a small choir, with f a good Pieta by Montorsoli, who re- I modelled the Cliurch. He also sculp- ! tured the statues of the prophets J Jeremiah and David, the saints John r Bapt. and Andrew, and the Evan- I gelists, as well as the marble urn and 1 the reliefs on both pulpits. The I ornaments and figures on the monu- j ment of Count Filippo Doria over the two lateral altars were his work. High above the altar hangs the sword sent to Doria in 1535 by Paul HI., for the services he had rendered in the cause of the Church. The Chapels •f- This mode of construction was confined at I Genoa to public edifice s and to buildings erected I by the Commune. The four great families of Doria, Grimaldi, Spiuola, and Fieschi, alone among the patricians, had the privilege of employing it. contain the remains of SS. Maurus, Eleuterius, and Maximus, brought here frtnn Istria by Pagano Doria. On the 1. is a well-carved Organ-loft. In the Crypt beneath the high altar is the tomb of Andrea Doria, also by Montorsoli, who executed the stucco designs in the vault representing the deeds of the great Andrea. In tlie ad¬ joining ^Cloister (early 14th cent.), are several sepulchral inscriptions of the Doria family, brought from the suppressed church of S. Domenico, and others; and fragments of two colossal statues. Ill the adjoining Piazza are some curious specimens of 15 th cent, domestic architecture. Over the door of the house in the S.W. corner is an inscription stating that it was given to Andrea Doria by the Republic: Senat. Cons. Andrese de Oria Fatrise Libera- tori Miinus Fublicum. The doorway has some beautifully sculptured ara¬ besques. Over the door of a House facing the W. front is a curious relief of St. George and the Dragon, with the Virgin and a Doge of Genoa. S. of the Church is another ornamented doorway, surmounted by a relief; and at No. 1 Via David Chiossone, leading out of the Piazza to the N.W., is a curious relief representing a con¬ queror in a trinmphal car drawn by centaurs. Near S. Matteo are the Industrial Schools (Scuole Tecniche), the stair¬ case leading to which is decorated with encaustic tiles, made at Savona. The Teatro Carlo Felice, at the N.E. corner of the Piazza Deferrari, is an elegant structure. It wes opened in 1828, and ranks in size after the Scala at Milan, the S. Carlo at Naples, and the Theatre of Reggio. At the side of the Theatre is the entrance to the Galleria Mazzini, a covered arcade with shops, &c. The Accademia delle Belle Arti, close to the Theatre, contains numerous schools in the different departments of art, attended by a large body of pupils. On the stairs are four fine "columns of Porto Venere marble, from the sup¬ pressed church of San Domenico. The 1st room contains a beautiful 62 JRoiite 11 .—Genoa : Palaces, ♦Coronation of the Virgin by Luca della Bdbbia, with SS. John Bapt., Mary Magch, Bernardino, Francis, and two others. In the 2nd room are several good single figures of Saints, by unknown masters. Then follows a suite of rooms with modern pictures, bronzes, majolica, and casts. The Public Library, on the second floor, contains nearly 50,000 vols. From this point the Via Koma leads N.E. to the Acquasola Gardens and Villa Dinegro (p. 67). At the E. end of the Via Giulia is S. Stefano (C. 5), a building of the 13th cent., with a typical Genoese front, stripped black and white, and a very beautiful red brick Tower. Over the high altar is the *martyrdom of the patron saint, by Giulio Romano. It is concealed by an unsightly taber¬ nacle and candlesticks, and a fee is demanded for showing it. It was sent to Paris by Napoleon, and the head of the saint and other parts were there retouched by Girodet. “ Very careful, beautifully modelled. The lower group round the principal figure is still one of the finest pro¬ ductions of Italian art.”— Cic. E. of this Church several entire streets were demolished in 1892 to give access to the Exhibition buildings of the Colum¬ bus centenary. The Annunziata di Portoria, N. of 8. Stefano (C. 5), has a good Renais¬ sance double doorway (1521). The Ospedale di Pamatone (C. 5) supports, on an average, 1000 patients and 3000 foundlings. In front is a bronze Statue of Battistino Ba- LiLLA, a Genoese boy of 15, who on Sept. 5, 1746, threw a stone at the Austrian soldiers who had taken pos¬ session of tlie city under Gen. Botta Adorno, and gave the signal for a spirited and successful resistance. Returning to the Piazza Deferrari, we may now visit the long series of Palaces t for which Genoa is so famous. The first in order is the The proper translation of the word Pa¬ lazzo, which the Italians apply to any large private residence, is not Palace, hut Mansion; just as the French Place, in an architectural sense, is not a Place, but a Square. Palazzo Pallavicini, 12, Strada Carlo Felice. Sir Horatio, a member of this family, was receiver and banker to the court of Rome during the reign of Mary. He built Babraham in Cam¬ bridgeshire, and became afterwards allied by marriage with the Crom¬ wells. The palace contains a fine staircase. Palazzo della Casa, formerly Spinola dei Marmi, in the Piazza delle Fontane Amorose, an edifice of the 15th cent., built of alternate courses of white and black marble; in front are five niches containing statues of members of the family, with inscriptions in Gothic characters beneath. In the same Piazza is another large Palazzo Pallavicini (No. 27). Palazzo Cambiaso (Gamharo), at the corner of the Via Garibaldi and Piazza Fontane Morose, an excellent specimen of architecture. Adjacent is the Palazzo Carrega (Cataldi), by G. B. Gastello (1560), with a handsome staircase. Close to this point is the Stat. of the Funicular Rly. (see p. 66). Palazzo Parodi, 3, Via Garibaldi, has a striking fa 9 ade, oj^ening into a hand¬ some cortile, and frescoes by Luca Camhiaso. Palazzo Spinola, No. 5, has a portrait of Agostino Spinola on horseback, by Vandych; a Philosopher in a black dress, by Sehastiano del Piombo; a finely preserved Virgin and Child, by Beccafumi; a Madonna, by Vandych; and a Holy Family, with two Saints, by Luini, “excellent, probably by Andrea Salaino,” Cic. Palazzo Giorgio Doria, 6, Via Gari¬ baldi (not always shown), contains a fine full-length portrait of a Lady, by Vandych; the Duchess of Sforza Cesarini, School of Leonardo da Vinci; and a Shepherd and Shepherdess, by Benedetto Castiglione. Palazzo Adorno (not always visible), No. 10, designed by Alessi. The pic¬ tures include:—Dejanira and Hercules in the Garden of the Hesperides, by Rubens; Judith, by Guido Beni; Vir- Itoute 11 .—Genoa : Palaces. 63 and Saints, by Palma Vecchio; Madonna and Saints, by Licca Cam- hiaso; a frieze, with amorini, by Dom. Piola; “four miniature pictures, highly characteristic examples of the antique and allegorical tendency of Mantegna’s school, which here turns into an agreeable rococo the Triumph of Judith, the Triumph over Jugurtha, Love chained by the Nymphs, and Love led away Captive.”— Cic. Palazzo Serra, No. 12, by Alessi —a green house with large Terms at the door. The gilding of the saloon is said to have cost a million of francs. Palazzo Municipale {Doria-Tursi), No. 9, built by Bocco Lurago, of Como, for the Doge Niccolo Grimaldi, from whom it passed to one of the Doria family, created Duke of Tursi. The fine front is flanked by terraces with open arcades, upon which rest gardens. On the stairs are frescoes by Carlone, removed from the demolished Church of S. Sebastiano, and a statue of Joseph Mazzini, by Saccomanno. On the first floor, in the Council-Chamber, is a bust of Columbus; a box, supported by a hollow pillar, containing some interesting MSS. of that great navi¬ gator, and three autograph letters. The two mosaic heads of Columbus and Marco Polo, by SalHati, were l^resented to the city by Venice in 18G8. In the next room is a Madonna between St. Jerome and a Bishop, by Gerard David, of Bruges ,* a C.i’uci- fixion, by some old Netherlandish master (not Diirer ); and a triptych, with the Adoration of the Magi, &c. Here also is one of the most re¬ markable monuments of the history of Genoa—a bronze table, containing the awnrd made a. u. c. 633, by Quintus Marcus Minutius and Q. P. Rufus, between the Genuenses and the Viturii, supposed to be the inhabitants of Lan- gasco and Voltaggio, in the upper valley of the Polcevera, who had been disputing about the extent of their respective territories, and had appealed to the Senate from the local autho¬ rities. The table was discovered in 1506 by a peasant when digging his land near Piedimonte, 6 m. from Genoa. He brought it to Genoa for the pur¬ pose of selling it as old metal; but, the Senate purchased it for the com¬ monwealth. In an adjoining cabinet are Paga¬ nini’s portrait; his violin, attributed to Stradevarius; and a piece of em¬ broidery representing the martyrdom of St. Lawrence, said to date from A.D. 1001—a gift of the Greek Em¬ peror PalpQologus. *Palazzo Brignole Sale, now called Palazzo Bosso, from the outside being painted red, No. 18. A splendid suite of rooms on the second floor contains the extensive Picture Gallery. The Duchess of Galliera, only daughter of the late Marquis Biig- nole, with the consent of her husband, munificently presented this Palace to the city in 1874, with its gallery, library, and other contents, and an endowment for its maintenance. Rooms I. and II. contain ceiling decorations and portraits. Roo3i hi.— Guercino, *Cleopatra ; Strozzi, Cook plucking a Swan ; Olvarity ; L. Cambiaso, Holy Family. IiiOOM IV. —(Salone), a magnificent square hall, the ceiling decorated with armorial bearings. Frescoes by De- ferrari are on the roof. Pictures by Domenico Piola, and Guido Bono, Genoese artists. Room V. —Stanza della Prima- vera. — Paris Bordone, Lady’s por¬ trait ; Titian, Man’s portrait; Mordto, ^Botanist (1533); Tintoretto, Man’s portrait; Vandych, Marcantonio Giulio Brignole Sale on horseback, and his wife; Prince of Orange in armour; Portraits of father and son ; Titian, Philip II. ; Giacomo Bassano, Por¬ traits of father and son; Paris Bor¬ done, *Manwith red sleeves, “a won¬ derful portrait.” Room VI.— Guercino, Cato killing himself; Luca Giordano, Olinda and Sophronia; Lod. Caracci, Annuncia¬ tion, on copper ; Luca d'Dlanda, Man’s portrait; Holbein, ^Portrait of a young lady; Strozzi, St. Thomas; Caravaggio, Raising of Lazarus : gone very dark. “ One of the remarkable 64 Boute 11 .—Genoa : Palaces. productions of the less refined na¬ turalism.”— Cic. Paolo Femiese, Boy praying; ^Guido Peni, St. Sebastian. Boom VII.— Bonifazio Fen., Adora¬ tion of the Magi; “ feeble, with beau¬ tiful details.” Guido Beni, Madonna; Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; “ genuine replica of a picture in the Pitti Palace.” Guercino, Holy Family, with saints; Venetian School, Francis¬ cos Philetus, Doctor (by Fordenone, C. and (7.) ; Guido Ileni, St. Mark writing; Tintoretto, Man’s portrait. Boom VIII.— Paolo Veronese, Judith; Giacomo Bassano, Man praying in Prison; P. Bordone, Man’s portrait; Pellegro Piola, St. Ursula. Vandych, Christ with the two Pharisees ; “ sim¬ ply a new edition of Titian’s Cristo della Moneta; the head of Christ empty, those of the old men excellent,” Cic. — Buhens, Man’s portrait. Spagno- letto, Philosopher; P. Bordone, Por¬ trait of a young man; Procaccini, IMadonna and Saints; Domenichino, St. Boch; C. Maratfa, Flight into Egypt; *Pellegro Piola, Holy Family. “ He has shown a specially beautiful naturalism in his pictures here.”— Cic. Boom IX.— ^Vandych, Portrait of a man in Spanisli costnme; *Portrait of Geronima Brignole Sale and her little daughter. Paolo Veronese, Lady’s Portrait; A. Sacchi, Daedalus and learns; Guercino, God the Father; F. Alhano, Children. The Palazzo Bianco, on the opposite side of the street, is being transformed into a Historicfd Museum, in connec¬ tion witli the opening of the Columbus Centenary Festival. It will also con¬ tain some good pictures presented to the town by the munificent Duchess of Galliera from her Paris Collec¬ tion. The Church of the Annunziata (A. 4) was rebuilt in 1587. The interior, rich in marbles, has been rcgilded and restored in a gaudy stylo. Over the entrance, in a bad light, is the Last Supper, by Procaccini. In the 1st chapel on the 1. are three horrible but vigorous martyrdoms, by Genoese artists. Palazzo Marcello Durazzo, formerly della Scala, 1, Via Balbi, was erected in the 17th cent., by Bart. Bianco. The beautiful court is surrounded by a Doric colonnade of white marble, from a corner of which opens the ^flight of stairs, designed by And. Tagliafico. On the first floor is the Picture Gallery. —1st Boom; Family Busts. —2nd Boom : Guercino, Mucius Sem- vola ; Bmhens, Silenus ; School of Mending, Descent from the Cross; Vandycli, *James I. and his family. Unlcnoivn, Virgin and Children.—3rd Boom: Strozzi, Portrait of a bishop; Ann. Garacci, Man’s portrait; Titian, Magdalen (old copy).—4th Boom: Paolo Veronese, INIarriage of St. Catha¬ rine ; * Vandyclc, Portrait; Guido Beni, Vestal Virgin ; Tintoretto, Portrait of a Durazzo. In the centre, two beautiful porcelain vases.—5th Boom : Porcelain.—6th Boom : Domenichino, Christ after His Besurrection; *F«n- dyck, Portrait of a boy in white silk ; Three Children of Charles I. with dog; Domenichino, Venus, Adonis, and amoretti ; * Buhens, Philip IV. of Spain; Spagnoletto, Democritus and Heraclitus ; * Vandyck, Lady with two children, “ the most beautiful Vandyck which Genoa possesses,” Cic.; Cara¬ vaggio, Psyche, a brilliant picture; Titian, Ceres, Bacchus, Cupid, and nymph (old copy).—8th Boom: Flemish 15th cent. Virgin and Child, with Sf. Francis and donors ; Dutch 15th cent. *Pieta. — 9th Boom : Old German Crucifixion, with Saints. There is also a Library of 7000 vols. * Palazzo Balbi Senarega, No. 4, Strada Belbi. A fine palace, built in the early part of the 17th cent., from the designs of Bart. Bianco and Pier Ant. Corradi. The court is sur¬ rounded by Doric colonnades. The Pieture Gallery ranks third in im¬ portance ill Genoa. The Great Hall (Salone) is a magnificent square room, and contains — Vandyck, *Equestrian portrait of Francesco Maria Balbi; Bernardino Strozzi (11 Cappuccino), Joseph inter¬ preting the Chief Butler’s Dream. 2nd A B C D 9 \re^> 1 , fjolVTOlOV «I42'0 CENTRAL PORTION ^ F S Welier 1 2 3 4 5 6 X I^^lisK IvLilf T.ondjort.j Johjv Murray^ AlhemarZe. Strf>eJ:^,W■ Reference to Central Genoa. HOTELS. a. Isotta D.4 b. de France A.3 c. Genes C.4 d. Smith A.3 e. de la Ville A.2 f. des Etrangers ... B.2 CHURCHES. Duomo B.4 S. Annunziata A.l N.S del Carmine ... B.i S. Filippo B.2 S. Siro B.2 S. Maria delle Vigne B.3 S. M. Maddalena... C.3 S. Maria Scuoie Pie B.4 S. Matteo 0.4 8. Giorgio A.5 S. Cosmo A.6 S. Maria di Castello A.5 S. Donato B.5 8. Ambrogio B..5 8. Agostino B.6 S. Stefano D.6 S. Pietro A.4 THEATRES. Teatro Colombo ... B.2 Pagnnini ... D.2 ,, Carlo Felice C.5 ,, Nazionale... B.6 ,, Apollo C.6 Palazzo Peale A.l „ Balbi A.l ,, (/enturioni Zecca B.2 ,, Rosso B.3 ,, Municipale C.3 „ di S. Giorgio A.4 j, Spinola ... C.3 n *!» D.4 ,, de Casa ... D.4 ,, Ducale B.5 Banco Nazionale ... A.4 Borsa B.3 Telegraph Office ... B.5 Post Office C.4 Accademiadelle BelleArti C.5 Ospedale di Pammatone D.5 Reference to Central Genoa. HOTELS. a. Isotda ••• D.4 b. de France A.3 c. Gmes C.4 d. Smilb A.3 e. de la Ville A.2 f. des Etrangers ... B.2 CHTJRCHBS. Duomo B.4 S. Annunziata A.l N.S del Carmine ... B.l S. Filippo B.2 S. Siro B.2 S. Maria delle Vigne B.3 S. M. Maddalena... C.3 S. Maria 8cuoie Pie B.4 S. Matteo C.4 S. Giorgio A.5 S. Cosmo A.5 S. Maria di Castello A.5 S. Donato B.5 S. Ambrogio B.5 S. Agostino B.6 8. Stefano D.6 S. Pietro A.4 THEATRES. Teatro Colombo ... B.2 ,, Pagnnini ... D.2 ,, Carlo Felice C.5 ,, Nazionale... B.6 ,, Apollo C.6 Palazzo Beale A.l „ Balbi A.l „ Centurioni Zecca B.2 „ Bosso B.3 ,, Municipale C.3 „ di S. Giorgio A.4 ,, Spinola ... C.3 99 ' > „ de Casa ... D.4 D.4 „ Ducale B.5 Banco Nazionale ... A.4 Borsa B.3 Telegraph Office ... B.5 Post Office C.4 Accademia delle BelleArti C.5 Ospedale di Pamraatone D.5 65 lioiite 11.— -Genoa: Palaces. Room.— Titian, Virgin and Child, with SS. Catharine, Dominic and donors, “ PordenoneT Cic. ; VandycT, Virgin and Child ; Riihens, Our Lord and St. John the Baptist as infants. 8rd Room. — Vandycl:, ^Portrait of a lady in hlue-and-gold dress, seated ; *Equestrian portrait of Paolo Balbi the senator, painted over by Velasquez with the head of Philip II. of Spain, to save it from destruction when Balbi was disgraced and banished from Cenoa. 4th Room. — Caravaggio, Conversion of St. Paul; “ a master¬ piece, the execution most careful and irresistibly beautiful,” Cic.; Dutch School, Holy Family, and Nativity; ; Strozzi, St. Joseph and the Infant, j with a globe. 5 th Room, Library .— Bassano, Market. 6th Room (Gal- liERY).— Bronzino, Man in armour ; Flemish School, Lady’s Portrait; I Grechetto, Finding of Romulus and ‘ Remus; Journey of Abraham; Spagno- letto. Philosopher, and Mathematician; Tintoretto, *Male portrait; Vandych, , Holy Family; Portrait of a Spanish I Gentleman on horseback ; An. Ca,racci, I Young W^oman’s portrait; Paris Bor- done, Copy of Titian’s Danae ; Rubens, T>ran’s head; Jan Brueghel, Tempta¬ tion of St. Anthony—very curious ; Memling, Our Saviour on the Cross ; Filippino Lij)pi, Communion of St. Jerome; Paolo Veronese, Portrait of a Venetian Doge. *Palazzo dell’ Universita, No. 5, was erected from the designs of BaH. Bianco, for the use of the Jesuits, who held it until their expulsion in 1773. The vestibule and the noble cortile are amongst the finest speci¬ mens of llie kind. Two huge lions hank the stairca.se. The Hall of Medicine contains .some bronze statues by Giovanni Bologna; in the Great Ilall are six Anrtues by the same sculptor; and in a third room al)i ive are a number of reliefs in bronze. The bronze relief of the Entombment is by Francavilla. The Museum of Natural History contains a good col¬ lection of the birtls and hshes of this part of Italy. The Library (open daily) contains 70,000 vols. There is Bin era. also a collection of ancient Genoese coins. In the Church is a relief in bronze, and in the Sacristy a good Descent from the Cross, both by Giov. Bologna. Behind is a small Botanic Garden; in the court leading to it several curious inscriptions removed from suppressed churches, and on the top of the palace a Meteorological Observatory. In the Palazzo Durazzo, No. 6, is preserved an extensive collection of Engravings, said to exceed 50,000 in number. Palazzo Reale, No. 10, formerly belonging to the Durazzo family, was purchased by the King of Sar¬ dinia in 1815, and splendidly fitted up by Charles Albert in 1842, as a royal residence. It is the largest and handsomest palace in Genoa. The front is nearly 300 feet in length; it was built from the designs of G. A. Falcone and P. F. Cantone. Among the fe\v good paintings which remain are a good portrait of the Lombard School, and tlie Woman taken in adultery, attributed to Mo- retto. Palazzo Doria (A. 3). The gardens, towards tlie sea, form a fine feature in tlie panorama of the port. This pale was given to the great Andrea Doria, in 1522, and partly rebuilt by him in 1529. His architect was Montorsoli, a Florentine; but many portions were designed by Pierino del Vaga, who, sorrowful and needy,driven from Rome by the calamities which had befallen the Eternal City when stormed by the Imperialists in 1527, "was kindly re¬ ceived by Doria. His decorations are still to be seen, after having undergone restoration (1845), on the staircase, in the vesti- bnle, and in some of the rooms. The best is the defeat of the Titans by Jupiter, on the ceiling of the Saloon. Here also is a portrait of Andrea with his favourite cat, and a handsome chimney-piece. In the gallery that leads to the terrace above the garden are portraits of Andrea Doria and his family. In the garden is a fountain representing Andrea in the character F GO lloiite 11.— Genoa: Gampo Santo. of Neptune, by Carlone. On the other side of the Ely, is another garden, with a muJunnent raised by Giovanni Doria to II gran Roldano, a favourite dog (d. 1005, aged 9): here also is a grotto built by dZem'o, now almost a ruin, and a- colossal Statue of Hercules. Doria was offered the ducal authority for life, and there is no doubt but that he might have acquired the ab¬ solute sovereignty (see p. 57). Andrea died in 1500, at the age of 92. The Villa Scoglietto (A. 2), belonging to Signor Eosazza, has a beautiful garden, with an admirable view (1 fr.). The *Via di Circonvallazione, a fine road winding nt a high level between the Piazza Manin (B. 0) and the Alhergo clei Poveri (A. 4), affords a charming walk or drive. A branch descends to the Piazza Annnnziata (B. 4)., while the main road is con- finued to the Piazza Principe at the Ely. Stat. The Circonvallazione may be reached in 3 min. by a Funicular Ely., which runs from the foot of the Via Caffaro, at the N.E. corner of the Piazza Fontane Morose. The great Albergo de’ Poveri (A. 4), founded in 1055, is a stately building, about 190 yds. square, and encloses four large courts. In the centre of the cross which forms the ground plan of the inner wards is a Chapel, so placed that all the inmates can witness the celebration of the Mass without leaving their beds. At the altar is a beautiful marble relief, attributed to Michel Angelo. In the cha])el is a statue of the Virgin ascending to Heaven, by Puget., one of his best works. This establishment will con¬ tain 1300 persons. The *Acquasola, a garden-grove, on the old fortifications, is a favourite resort of all classes. The Palazzo Pescliiera to the N.E. is the ‘Pink Gaol,’ occiqn’cd by Charles Dickens during the winter of 1844-5. His Christmas Story of ‘ The Chimes ’ was written in it. N.W. of the Acqua- sola is the Villetta di Negro. From its more elevated position, it enjoys a still finer and more extensive view. The garden has been, laid out and planted, and the Casino in the centre rebuilt as a Museum., in which are various geological and zoological Col¬ lections. In the Piazza Corvette is a j bronze equestrian Statue of Victou Emanuel, by Barzaglii, erected in 1886 ; and at the foot of the Villa di Negro a marble Statue of Mazzini, by Costa, The Regio Manicomio (D. 5) is an ex¬ tensive modern building, consisting of six wings, converging towards a central edifice. It contains 700 lunatics. The adjacent Porta Pila is under restora- ■ tion, but its walls have been de- ■ molished, and the town is rapidly spreading in this direction over the plain of the Bisagno. Close to it ; were erected Exhibition buildings ■ for the Columbus Centenary Festival i in 1892. The large Hospital of St. Andrew (D, 5) was built by the architect Parodi, at the expense of the munifi¬ cent Duchess of Galliera. The *Canipo Santo (Public Ceme¬ tery) at Staglieno, about 14 m. outside the Porta Eomana, in the valley of the Bisagno, is open daily from 10 a.m. until sunset. It has cost about 44,000h It consists of a grand quadrangle sur¬ rounded by a cloister, in which are arranged the vaults and monuments of the wealthier classes. In some eases a vault costs 1500Z. The monu¬ ments are chiefly by native artists. Only the poor are placed in the ground ; the rest occupy receptacles for which the lowest sum charged is 500 fr. In the centre of the N. side of the quadrangle is a fine circular chapel, approached by a grand marble staircase. The gallery round the dome is supported by 16 Doric columns, 27 feet high and 11 feet in circumference, every one of a single piece of black Como marble. In the centre of the quadrangle is a colossal statue, 27 feet high, of Faith, by Santo Varni. Far up the hillside in the rock lies Giu- ooco ^MfluSno Piazza CofUVJi ^J^ENTAUl Light! Eo, wmt& viz.9-n t AccojS/^ ddlo' beLLe^ Artt C.5 Borsa, B. 4 r~ CaEFtHice, Theatre Motels B.5|f Smith B.4 e B.4i<^dela'PiUeE.4: C .6|1l des Etrangers B.'i ■^PojjfO '■ For Murray's Handbook. Edw ^Weller L ondxmj, John. Mwray. Albemarle' Street. t.iJlaW •iwrjr>.K ■ aiitt id^i&aS . .lA-- ■' ;•'' :0-<- • ■" «•■■ ', .l^'- » » . y » I M II— I I — i a 67 lloute 12 .—Mentone to Genoa, sGppe IMazzini, in a massive granite tomb, with bronze gates (1872). From Albaro, 2 m. E. of Genoa, Tinder which the Ely. passes in a tunnel, the ascent of Monte Fascia may be made in 3 hrs. Fine *view, and charming descent to Nervi (Kte. 18). Horse Tramway to Fegli, with branch at Sampierdarena for Vonte- deeimo. ROUTE 12. MENTONE TO GENOA, BY VENTIMIGLIA, BORDIGHERA, SAN REMO, ALASSIO, AND SAVONA. INIiles. Stations. Routes, Mentone ... 2 7 Ventimiglia 10 Eordighera 14 Ospedaletti 17 San Remo 22 Taggia 24 S. Stefano 26 S. Lorenzo 31 Porto Maurizio 33 Oneglia 36 Diano Marina 38 Cervo 41 Andora 43 Laigueglia 45 Alassio 49 Albenga 53 Ceriale 54 Borghetto S. Spirito 55 Loano 56 Pietraligure 58 Borgio Verezzi 60 Finalmarina 65 Noli 67 Spotorno 69 Bergeggi 71 Vado 75 Savona?* . . 15,17 78 Albissola 80 Celle 84 Varazze 88 Cogoleto 91 Arenzano 95 Voltri 96 Pra 97 Pegli Miles. Stations. Routes, 98 Sestri PonentO 99 Cornigliano 100 Sampierdarena h 102 Genoa/i . . 11, 18, 10 On quitting Mentone (Rte. 2) the Ely. runs through tunnels and cut¬ tings, and crosses the Roja, which descends from the Col di Tenda (Rte. IG) before reaching 7 in. Ventimiglia,^ Italian and French Custom House ; luggage exam¬ ined in either direction. Change of car¬ riage and an hour’s halt; money can be exchanged at the Station. Roman time is now kept, and is 41 min. in advance; that is to say, 3 o’clock Paris time is 3 h. 41 rain. Roman. Ventimiglia (6500) is the ancient Albiura Intermelium, and the capital of the Intermelii, a Ligurian tribe. The Roman town stood on the low ground now occupied by the delta of the Nervia, From its position on the brow of a hill commanding the road along the sea-coast, Ventimiglia has always been an important military position, and its possession was much contested in the middle ages by the Genoese, the Counts of Provence, and the Dukes of Savoy. It boasts of having had St. Barnabas for its first bishop. The Cathedral is an old basilica with a modernised nave and good choir; the doorway is a good specimen of Riviera Gothic. In the Romanesque Church of /St. Michael, having a good crypt, are two Roman mile¬ stones, found here, one bearing the number dxc,, and inscriiitions of the reigns of Augustus and Antoninus Pius. On the rt., about a mile beyond the Stat., are some ruins of a Roman Tiieatre, The Rly. crosses the Nervia by a stone bridge and elevated causeway. [2 m. up the Valley of the Nervia is Campo Rosso, with two early churches and some 15th cent, frescoes. 3 m. further is the castle of Dolce Acqua, a fine feudal relic of the Doria family. On a height, U hr. N.E., is perched the village of Ferinaldo, the birth- F 2 68 Haute 12 .— Borclighera—San Hemo. place (1035) of the great astronomer Cassini. 2 m. N. of Dolce Acqua, on the road to the Col di Tenda(Rte. 16), is Isola Buona (1200), with paper mills and cold sulplmrous springs. 4 m. further is Pigna, with a good stained- glass window and some 15th cent, frescoes. Above it is a sulphurous spring (80° Fahr.), with Baths.] A flat sandy plain, formed by the detritus of the neighbouring sandstone (tertiary) hills which extend from Ventimiglia, is followed nearly as far as 10 m. Bordighera (2800),a favour¬ ite winter resort. Its aspect is S.S.W., which gives it more evening sun in winter than San Eemo, and it is ^yell sheltered from the N. and E. The view from here rivals that from Cap d’An¬ tibes. There are numerous charming excursions in the neighbourhood. Here the date-palm is exteiisively cultivated, not in single specimens, but in large groves; and these trees, said to have been introduced by a community of Dominican friars, cen¬ turies ago, give an oriental aspect to the country around. Some of them are bound up or swathed at their sum¬ mits, in order to prevent their leaves becoming green, es they are required for the Church ceremonies of Palm Sunday. The inhabitants of Bordi¬ ghera possess the privilege of furnish¬ ing them for this purpose to the Chapter of St. Peter’s. This exclusive light was accorded by Sixtus V. to reward the prompt suggestion of a sailor from San Remo, during the erection of the great obelisk ot the Vatican, who, seeing all eftorts un¬ availing to raise the column when it had reached a certain height, called out to wet the cables (in spite of the prohibition against speaking en¬ forced by a penalty), by which the desired effect, well known to all sea¬ faring people, was instantly procured, of shortening and tightening them, and the obelisk was brought into its place. The best Palm-groves lie opposite the E. side of Capo S. Ampeglio. 1 m. further E. is the Chapel of the Ma¬ donna della liuota, with an Aunuii* ciation in alabaster. | m. beyond is a sulphurous spring (70° Fahr.). 14 m. Ospedaletti.s^ 1 hr. N.N.E. on a steep hill stands La Colla, or Col- dirodi (830 ft.), with a Library of 0000 vols., and a small Picture Gallery, bequeathed by Padre Bambaldi (1803- 1805).—Portrait of Card. Leopoldo dei Medici, and a Boy’s Head, both by Sustermans. Virgin and Child, by Lorenzo di Credi. Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo. The remaining pictures with great names appear to be copies. 17 m. SAN REMO (18,000),S^ a flou- rishing and thoroughly Italian town, the chief place of the province, is pic¬ turesquely situated oir a declivity, descending to the sea-shore, covered by a thick wood of olive-trees. The streets which climb the hill, at right angles to the sea, are narrow, tortuous and steep, arched over and crossed by buttresses of masonry, and extremely picturesque. In the neighbourhood there are numerous carriage-roads, which afibrd pleasant drives. The finest are the Strada Berigo, the Strada Borgo Pescio, the Stiada Baragallo, and the Via Francia. An aqueduct brings fresh water in iron pipes from the springs at Argallo, behind Taggia. San Remo is much frequented as a winter residence. An absence of the cutting winds which occur sometimes at Nice, and a freer circulation of air than at Mentone, give it certain ad¬ vantages over both. The climate is softer than at the former place, and more bracing than at the latter. The Cathedral of S. Siro has been entirely modernized, except the lower part of the tower and the outside walls of the aisles, which have two pointed 13th cent, doorways, but no windows. At the 2nd chapel 1. are two columns of Porto Venere marble. Near San Siro is a Hospital for Lepers. The Villa Zirio, above the Corso di Le- vante, E. of the town, was the resi¬ dence of the Crown Prince Frederic from Nov. 3, 1887, to Mar. 10, 1888. Tliere are two English Churches, and w izn MabcrgcL r)Costa, iei Ira±i y 551m,JJ74^ i. 'CAIhar'eo Sehastiaiuj ouxj Tn,^ r , 1640fl C-Gambcavu. Jl&m,. i* / \9m..304af. ''C.yRo<^ » 730^.^ iGiovarmi 753-m.. 24.711 ^ S. Hocco/' < 420 m,. 137 W. TACf 3760 fl \^Uartcrvo W^Caggia 109 < 77 n -3576 S6t±0.^>^ K^^Tx^^.l7^9 4-61rrL'. 307m,1007ft' S. Gia/xmo- 2SlmlS.24f^ Torra SeGastu Hussana^ \ Tiu£>va,\' o)sBartolummeo W 72 m,. 892 f- +16777!,. 5