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 A VISIT TO 
 
 TuE -(^NTINIHNT^^ 
 
 BY G. C. TENNEY 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^llu0trate^ 
 
 ^' 
 
 International Tract Society 
 
 CHICAGO battle CREEK LONDON 
 
 ILL. MICH. ENG. 
 
 1895 
 
Entered according .to Act of Congress, in the year 1895, by 
 
 THE INTERNATIONAL TRACT SOCIETY, 
 In the ot!ke of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 
 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 O SOME it may appear that every plausible excuse for writing books 
 
 of travel has been worn out. But this is not the case. It is true 
 
 that the beaten paths have been worn quite deep, but there is still 
 
 plenty of untrodden room. The spirit of our age is drawing nations and 
 
 men into a closer union, and a better knowledge of each other. Travel 
 
 and books of travel are the great agents of this transforming genius. 
 
 We have come to the time of which an inspired prophet wrote : 
 
 "Many shall run to and fro; and knowledge shall be increased." The 
 
 knowledge of our fellow-beings, of their circumstances, of the advantages 
 
 they possess, and of the disadvantages under which they live, furnishes 
 
 the best possible basis for a life of usefulness. The object of this book 
 
 is to contribute somewhat to this knowledge. 
 
 While the writer follows, to some extent, the highways of travel, it 
 
 has been his purpose, both in description and illustration, to pass rapidly 
 
 over the more familiar scenes of Europe and America, thinking that our 
 
 limited pages could better be devoted to those regions more remote from 
 
 the majority of the readers. In text and picture the author follows the 
 
 actual course of his travel, and the scenes of his observation, with but 
 
 little deviation. The majority of the illustrations being reproductions of 
 
 photographs, are true to life. These being representative, rather than 
 
 extraordinary, are intended to impart a faithful idea of the various phases 
 
 of life in the countries visited. 
 
 G. C. T. 
 
 1* 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Leaye-takixg . . . . . . . . . .11 
 
 Out of the Western Door . . . . . . . 19 
 
 The Hawaiian Islands ..... . . 25 
 
 The Island World ........ 35 
 
 Pitcairn ........... 45 
 
 New Zealand ......... 55 
 
 Scenery of New Zealand ........ 65 
 
 Australia .......... 75 
 
 Natural and Social Peculiarities ...... 83 
 
 Sidney in Particular ........ 93 
 
 The Southern Metropolis ........ 99 
 
 Sights and Scenes in Australia . . . . . .107 
 
 A Brief History . . . , . . .117 
 
 Other Colonies ......... 125 
 
 A General View ......... 135 
 
 Leaying Australia . . . . . . . .143 
 
 Ceylon ........... 148 
 
 Buddhism ...,..,... 157 
 
 Sights in Colombo and Madras , . . . .165 
 
 From Madras to the Himalayas ...... 175 
 
 Among the Mountains . , . , . . .185 
 
 Glancing oyer India . . . . . .194 
 
 Journey Resumed ........ 203 
 
 In and About Calcutta . . . .210 
 
 L3J 
 
4 CONTENTS. 
 
 Up the Ganges Valley ........ 222 
 
 Farther Inland ......... 233 
 
 Delhi to Bombay . . 250 
 
 Adieu India .......... 265 
 
 India to Egypt .......... 271 
 
 Egypt 281 
 
 Alexandria to Jerusalem ....... 293 
 
 Round About Jerusalem ....... 307 
 
 Jerusalem and Bethlehem ....... 325 
 
 Italy ........... 341 
 
 Rome . . . . ' . . . . . . . . 350 
 
 Homeward and Backward ....... 369 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 Page. 
 
 Absalom's Pillar . . . . . , . . .318 
 
 Adelaide, South Australia ...... 126 
 
 A Fakir 211 
 
 A Fiji Chief ......... 48 
 
 Agra ............ 236 
 
 Albert Park, Auckland . . . . . . . 54 
 
 A Maori Chief . 58 
 
 Ancient Umber ......... 253 
 
 A Street in Rotterdam ........ 374 
 
 Australian Bear ......... 113 
 
 Australian Natives . . . . . . . .136 
 
 Banana Grove ......... 34 
 
 Ballarat in Gold Fields ....... 116 
 
 Bathing in the Sacred Eiver ...... 212 
 
 Baths of Caracalla, Rome ....... 357 
 
 Benares .......... 223 
 
 Bethlehem .......... 336 
 
 Beyrout . . . ' . . . . . . . 296 
 
 Boats on the River Ganges . . . . . . .178 
 
 Bombay .......... 261 
 
 Botanical Gardens, Adelaide ...... 129 
 
 Bounty Bay, Pitcairn ........ 47 
 
 Buddhist Temple, Colombo . . . . . . .162 
 
 Burning Ghat, Benares ....... 214 
 
 Cairo 286 
 
 Calcutta from the Maidan . . . . . . 191 
 
 Cashmere Gate, Delhi, Showing Marks of Siege in 1857 . 247 
 
 Castle of Chillon ........ 386 
 
 Cheops . . .- . 292 
 
 Citadel Mosque, Cairo ....... 302 
 
6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATION'S. 
 
 Collins Street, Melbourne ....... 104 
 
 Cologne Cathedral ........ 391 
 
 Colosseum and Via Sacra ....... 3-55 
 
 Coral Island ......... 36 
 
 Council Chamber ......... 124 
 
 Crater op Kilauea ........ 26 
 
 Crossing the Rockies ........ 15 
 
 Dalhousie Square and Secretariat, Calcutta . . . 218 
 
 David's Tower, Jerusalem ....... 300 
 
 Deserted Palace, Umber . . . . . . . 256 
 
 Drying Macaroni . . . . . . . . . 368 
 
 Eden Gardens, Pagoda ....... 186 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein on the Rhine ...... 388 
 
 Elbe River, Hamburg ........ 376 
 
 Elephanta Caves, Bombay Haregr ..... 263 
 
 Emus 113 
 
 Father Nile .......... 283 
 
 Ferns 108 
 
 Fiji Dance . . . . . . . • - .50 
 
 Fiji War Canoe 52 
 
 Gateway to the Husainabad Mosque, Lucknow . . . 234 
 
 Gateway to the Taj ........ 238 
 
 Gathering Cocoanuts . . . . . . . . 39 
 
 Gisborne, New Zealand ....... 60 
 
 Grass Huts, Hawaii ....... 28 
 
 Hall of Private Audience ....... 244 
 
 High Caste Hindu Children ....... 184 
 
 Hobart, Tasmania ........ 132 
 
 Honolulu ........... 30 
 
 House of Simon, Jaffa . . . ' . . . . 308 
 
 House and Family in Colombo . , . . ... 166 
 
 Hyde Park, Sydney ........ 74 
 
 Image of Buddha ......... 159 
 
 In the Snow ......... 12 
 
 Jaffa ........... 298 
 
 Jerusalem .......... 308 
 
 Jessamine Tower, Agra Fort ....... 249 
 
 Jeypore .......... 251 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Kangaroos. ...... 
 
 King Bii.ly . . . . 
 
 King George's Sound, ^yEST Australia . 
 
 KUTAB MiNAR ..... 
 
 Laughing Jackass ..... 
 
 Launceston ...... 
 
 London Bridge ...... 
 
 London Tower ..... 
 
 Lucerne, Switzerland .... 
 
 LuTHERs Room in the Wartburg 
 
 Lyttleton, New Zealand 
 
 Maori Salutation .... 
 
 Memorial Gardens and AVell, Cawnpore 
 Milan Cathedral .... 
 
 MiLFORD Sound, New Zealand 
 Modern Jericho ..... 
 
 Mosque of Omar ..... 
 
 Mosque of Omar, Interior . 
 
 Mount of Olives . . . . . 
 
 Murray River ..... 
 
 Naples, Vesuvius in the Distance . 
 
 On the Road to the Pyramids . 
 
 On the St. Gotthard Route . 
 
 Ormond College, Melbourne 
 
 Our Steamer at Samoa .... 
 
 Parliament House, Brisbane 
 Parliament House, Melbourne 
 Parse e Family ..... 
 
 PiTCAIRN ....... 
 
 Point de Galle . . . . 
 
 Pompey's Pillar, Alexandria 
 
 Prince's Bridge, Melbourne 
 
 Pundita Ramabai's School, Poonah, India 
 
 "Queen Lil" ' 
 
 QUEENSTOWN, NeW ZeALAND 
 
 Queen Street, Auckland 
 
 Rachel's Tomb . . . . ,. 
 
 Residency' Ruins, Lucknow . 
 
 112 
 142 
 
 90 
 200 
 115 
 140 
 370 
 372 
 362 
 381 
 
 68 
 
 62 
 232 
 364 
 
 64 
 311 
 328 
 332 
 340 
 
 86 
 344 
 294 
 366 
 110 
 
 41 
 144 
 120 
 278 
 
 44 
 150 
 305 
 100 
 206 
 
 32 
 
 57 
 
 68 
 339 
 228 
 
8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Railway Station at Bombay ...... 268 
 
 Rhine Falls, Schaffhausen ....... 383 
 
 Rosenberg Castle, Copenhagen ...... 378 
 
 Ruins of Pompeii, Vesuvius in the Bacxgrounu . . . 348 
 
 Samoan Belles ......... 42 
 
 Scene in Hawaii ......... 22 
 
 Scene in Oakland ........ 18 
 
 Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's ....... 360 
 
 South Sea Island Home ....... 46 
 
 Street Scene in Jerusalem ....... 324 
 
 St. Martin's Church, Naples . . - . . . . 346 
 
 Street Scene in Colombo . . . . .154 
 
 Suez Canal .......... 280 
 
 Suttee Chauri Ghat . . . . . . . . 230 
 
 Sydney Heads .. . . . . . . . . 78 
 
 Sydney from North Shore ....... 82 
 
 Sydney Town Hall ........ 94 
 
 Tahitian Girls ......... 51 
 
 Tea Garden near Darjeeling ...... 172 
 
 Territet, Geneva Lake ........ 384 
 
 The Darjeeling Railway ....... 182 
 
 The Dead Sea 314 
 
 The Golden Temple, Benares ...... 225 
 
 The Great Mosque, Delhi ....... 259 
 
 The Jordan 321 
 
 The Pearl Mosque ..... ... 273 
 
 The Roman Forum, Looking West ..... 352 
 
 The Roman Forum, Looking East ...... 353 
 
 The Sphinx 289 
 
 The Taj 239 
 
 The Wartburg Castle ....... 380 
 
 Tomb of Itmud-ed-Doula, Agra ...... 241 
 
 Tomb of Akbar near Agra ...... 261 
 
 Truganini, Last of the Tasmanians ..... 134 
 
 Wellington .......... 70 
 
 Westminster Abbey ......... 373 
 
 White Terraces 81 
 
 Women Grinding . . . . . .... . 209 
 
LAND AND SEA 
 
LEAVETAKING. 
 
 ^.^^^pl^EAVING HOME " is one of the sad experiences 
 of this life with which all are more or less familiar. 
 The uncertainty that enshrouds earthly experiences 
 '^-^^^r^ in prospect helps much to make it what it is. When 
 one leaves his fireside, even for a day's labor, there is an 
 anxiety for his return that is most fully expressed in the 
 joyous home-coming at evening. The joy of his presence is 
 heightened by gratitude for his escape from the possible evils 
 that swarm around every path in life. Much more, then, 
 when hundreds and thousands of leagues of unknown ways 
 lie before the traveler, do feelings of sadness and forebodings 
 hover over him as he crosses the threshold of home with the 
 purpose of putting the whole world between him and that 
 loved spot. 
 
 In mid-winter, farewells were said to friends in the central 
 part of the United States, and we entered upon the first stage 
 of our journey en route to the Pacific coast. That winter 
 was an unusually severe one. The last night of travel east 
 of the Missouri river was well calculated to leave a lastimr 
 impression of what a Minnesota and Iowa winter can be. A 
 lively blizzard raged, and the cold was intense. It was with 
 difficulty that the train made any progress. At times the 
 wheels would struggle with the accumulated snow, going- 
 slower and slower till they surrendered, and then we would 
 wonder what next. But by dint of shoveling and some vig- 
 orous ramming with the small snow-plow attached to the 
 
 (11) 
 
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A NIGHT IN THE SNOW. 13 
 
 engine, the bond would be broken, and we proceeded. Inside 
 the cars it was impossible to keep warm ; and between shiver- 
 ing with the cold and shaking with an apprehension of being 
 derailed by the jolting and jerking of the train, we were 
 almost pnt out of joint with ourselves. This experience did 
 much to alleviate the pain of separation which one naturally 
 feels when leaving the land of his childhood, even for a tem- 
 porary sojourn in warmer latitudes. 
 
 As the storm on that nio'ht was in its earlier stao-es, the 
 drifting snow did not compel a resort to such means as are 
 shown in the illustration opposite this page. But it is not 
 uncommon in the northern States, where the snow falls deep, 
 to see three or four powerful locomotives with a gigantic snow 
 l^low in front, pushing their way through drifts, while the snow 
 flies in small avalanches on either side. Such a scene is full 
 of excitement to the beholders, and is fraught with danger to 
 the engine-men who can only crowd on steam and rush blindly 
 forward with all the force those great machines can muster. 
 When at last they can go no farther, they are reversed, backed 
 up a mile or so, and then with full fury are rammed into the 
 yielding snow. 
 
 From Kansas City our course was by the Santa Fe 
 route. We were soon hurried over the level plains of 
 Kansas, and out of the region of snow, except for the high 
 lands of New Mexico and Arizona. This was in the early 
 days of the " tourist sleepers." These cars were without any 
 upholstery, and so constructed that the seats could be con- 
 verted into berths at night, and a hanging berth above would 
 be let down, thus furnishing sleeping accommodations equal to 
 the seating capacity. Each passenger provided his own bed- 
 ding and cared for it. In each end of the car were capacious 
 stoves on which water might be heated and. some of the simpler 
 forms of culinary work carried on. Thus we passed five days 
 
14 LEA VE- TA KING. 
 
 and nights eating, sleeping, reaxling. A'isiting, or writing, in an 
 nnbroken journey to Los Angeles in southern California. 
 
 The monotony of the scenery of this trip is so nearly 
 complete that but little need be said on that score. On the 
 plains of Arizona some remarkable rock palisades are to be 
 seen. On nearly all the trans-continental routes there are at 
 least a few points of special interest, but generally they are 
 far between ; besides, these are so quickh' passed that the}' 
 leave but a faint impression on the mind. The mountains 
 crossed by these railways are very disappointing to nearly all 
 who see them for the first time after havina' heard so much of 
 the glories of the Rockies and the Sierras. The explanation 
 of this fact is that in locating these lines the precipitous, por- 
 tions of the mountains are avoided, and the low passes with 
 long gradual approaches are selected because they are so 
 much more feasible for railways. Thus one hardly realizes, 
 as he listens hour after hour to the labored puffing of the 
 engine, that he is climbing those famous mountains which 
 form America's backbone. When he is told that the train 
 has at last reached the altitude of from seven to ten thousand 
 feet, he sees in his surroundings nothing to indicate that fact, 
 except it be that the clouds are very low, and there are 
 patches of snow lying about. 
 
 The extensive lava beds over which this road passes in 
 Arizona are quite remarkable ; but that which made the deepest 
 impression upon my mind was the Mojave (Mo-hav-e) desert, 
 which we entered after crossing the Colorado River into 
 California. This vast plain seems to be densely covered with 
 a rank growth of cacti of every shape and variety. The plants 
 attain a prodigious size, and stretch out their arms in every 
 direction as if inviting unsuspecting victims to enter their em- 
 brace. Woe to the one who accepts the mute invitation, for at 
 every point these plants are armed with cruel stings which 
 
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 lilltiKlSl 
 
 ! 
 
1 6 LEA VE- TAKING. 
 
 pierce the flesh, causing pain and a burning sensation. They 
 cling to their victims with great tenacity. But, as if to add 
 to their attractiveness, on the extremities of these wicked 
 arms they bear the most gorgeous and lovely blossoms. It is 
 hard to realize that there is such fiendish cruelty beneath 
 them ; but appearances often deceive. 
 
 What the cactus is to the plant world, Satan is to the 
 human ftxmily. In this sinful world he awaits with out- 
 stretched arms the victims of his cruel designs. His snares 
 are embellished with beauty and gaudy show with which to 
 allure the unwary. When the unsuspecting youth passes 
 within reach of his grasp, he holds him with all his power, 
 and takes a fiendish delight in his torture and final destruction. 
 There are thousands of ways in this life which seem novel, 
 attractive, and right enough, but whose end is death. 
 
 The grandest feature of railway engineering which this 
 route presents is found in the celebrated Tehachipi Pass 
 through which the Southern Pacific railway enters the San 
 Joaquin Valley from the south. From an altitude of over 
 three thousand feet the road rapidly descends by loops and 
 tunnels, which afford many grand and awe-inspiring views. 
 The San Joaquin Valley lies between the Sierra Nevada 
 Mountains, which form the eastern boundary of California and 
 the Coast Range, which runs nearly parallel, leaving a valley 
 of an averao-e width of about 125 miles and over 300 in 
 length ; through the midst of it, flows the river from which 
 the valley takes its name. This valley was a few years ago 
 used by white men, as it has been said, " to starve sheep in." 
 That is, it was so dry and sterile that even sheep could barely 
 exist there. Since that time the mountain streams wdiich 
 come down from perpetual snows have been diverted from 
 their natural courses and turned upon the thirsty land. The 
 result is a wonderful transformation ; the desert blossoms as 
 
BEAUTIFUL CALIFORNIA. 17 
 
 the rose. Vineyards and orchards with evidences of pros- 
 perity and comfort are everywhere. During most of the 
 year the heavens give no rain, and in summer the heat reaches 
 a degree so intense that one shudders to write about it, but its 
 trees are planted by the river of waters and they thirst not. 
 
 For four months Oakhmd, California, was our home. 
 Across the bay, three miles distant, San Francisco sits upon 
 the slopes and crowns of the sand hills which form the north- 
 ern extremity of the peninsula that separates the bay from 
 the ocean. Oakland and Alameda lie upon the level eastern 
 shores of the bay, and are connected with the western me- 
 tropolis with frequently running ferry-boats which are met 
 nearly half-way across the bay by the trains that run out 
 upon causeways or piers constructed either of permanent em- 
 bankments or of piles. Back of these towns, the hills form a 
 sort of amphitheater, covered during winter and spring with 
 beautiful green. Great pains is taken to beautify the homes 
 of Oakland, and nature aids these efforts with a genial climate. 
 The result is gratifying to its citizens, and almost bewildering 
 in its profusion of loveliness to the traveler from the regions of 
 rigorous winters. 
 
 Essaying to describe the appearance of California in April 
 or May, one might well call it paradise. The trip from 
 Oakland to San Jose, or indeed through almost any of its 
 valleys, brings constantly to mind the words in which inspira- 
 tion describes the fertile valley of the Jordan. It is " even as 
 the garden of the Lord, like the land of Egypt, as thou comest 
 unto Zoar." It is the land of roses ; and innumerable fruit 
 trees add beauty and fragrance to a scene that is already sur- 
 passing in its loveliness. 
 
 But California is not paradise, nor need we look for it on 
 the earth in its present condition ; for it is not here. The rain 
 ceases in April and as the summer advances, the verdure dis- 
 
18 
 
 LEAVE-TAKING. 
 
 appears, the ground becomes parched, except where it is irri- 
 gated, the dust in the roads becomes daily deeper, and comes 
 up over the hind into the beds and kneading -troughs. In 
 October or November refreshing showers begin to come. 
 Nature washes her face and changes her clothes. Animals 
 rejoice in the abundance of fresh pastures ; mankind forgets 
 the drouth of the summer and boasts of the glorious climate, 
 while the East is shivering and freezing in the icy chains 
 of Boreas. 
 
 ScKNK I.N Oakland. 
 
OUT OF THE WESTERN DOOR. 
 
 'MERICAX8 are likely to feel that the Pacific Coast 
 line is the very "jumping-ofF place" of creation. 
 But it is not; we still go on. Turning backward at 
 this point, the traveler sees behind him the glory of 
 modern civilization and all those associations that familiarity 
 has made dear to him. The Golden Gate is the exit of the 
 New World, and the gateway of the regions of the primitive 
 ages, where life and history had their beginning. At that point 
 the head and tail of human progress come nearest together, 
 with only the Pacific waters between them. 
 
 Of late years a tide has seemed to set in, flowing from the 
 Old World eastward, and signs of reviving life are seen in the 
 Orient. If the west-bound traveler looks across the ocean, he 
 will perceive the beautiful evening star of Australasia rising, 
 contrary to nature, in the southwestern sky, clear and bright 
 above the horizon. For while the star of empire takes its 
 westward way, and nearly all the world has joined the proces- 
 sion, this new realm receives its chief impulse and strength 
 
 from the west. 
 
 When entering upon a Aoyage, the first thing a passenger 
 
 does is to see his stateroom and determine how it is going to 
 
 fit him. It is always a: tight fit, and it seems at first to be 
 
 altogether too small in each dimension. It is, perhaps, al)out 
 
 seven feet high, four feet wide, and just long enough so that 
 
 an ordinary man in lying down will not bump liis head and 
 
 heels at the same time. 
 
 Liuj 
 
20 OUT OF THE WESTERX DO OF. 
 
 li" il 1m^ nil outside room, there is ;i little circular, brass- 
 rliiiincd window with glass three fourths of an inch thick hung 
 on strong hinges which allow it to swing inw^ard. It closes in 
 a water-tight joint, and is held in its place by two strong screw 
 (damps. If it is not too near the water line, this window, or 
 ••l)ort," may be opened ; but if it be shut by the steward, it is 
 considered quite a breach of rules to open it without permis- 
 sion. Orders to close the ports frequently come from the 
 officer on the bridge, and the order must be obeyed no matter 
 how much tlio passenger may grumble. 
 
 There are two narrow bunks, one above the other, made up 
 neatly, and in modern vessels furnished with comfortable 
 springs. The new passenger is sure to think he can never 
 sleep in such a straight-jacket arrangement. But when he is 
 out on the rolling sea, the ship going up one side and down at 
 the other, shiftinir the anirle of the boat nearly ninety descrees, 
 and he is rolling back and forth like a spool in a cradle, he is 
 thankful that his bed is no wider than it is. Or if the boat be 
 pitching, he is equally glad that with a pillow at the top of his 
 Itead he can touch solid footinn; at both ends. 
 
 On some slats overhead or perhaps under his mattress are 
 life preservers. It may be that a settee under the window^ 
 tills up about all the space that is left. There are in many 
 cases some strange looking tin receptacles of which land j5eoj)le 
 have not learned the use, but with the use of which they 
 generally become acquainted after a few hours' tossing. 
 
 Having said our adieus, we sailed out of the Golden Gate 
 on a pleasant day in May, and for the first time found our- 
 selves upon a body of water that has no bounds. Stories of 
 sea-sickness had driven us into a desperate resolution to '•' take 
 it as it came." However I was determined not to surrender 
 without a struggle, but, if possible, to keep my stomach under, 
 and compel it to do its duty. For some days there was a strife 
 
DIET AT SEA. 21 
 
 between labor and capital. My digestive works went on a 
 strike, and declared a lockout against the bill of fare. I could 
 not blame them, but it was no time to yield, and I gave them 
 no excuse for lack of business. The grumbling stomach and 
 treacherous nerves were held in so close surveillance that 
 they soon resumed duty wdth the understanding that they 
 certainly deserved more consideration than they generally 
 receive either on sea or on land. 
 
 The high seas is a good place to make dietetic reforms. 
 One is almost ready to promise not to eat anything any more ; 
 but, once on land, most people shield themselves behind the plea 
 of not being morally accountable wdien making the promise, 
 and then proceed to make up for lost time. Besides, in the 
 application of good principles of eating and drinking, there are 
 many who make an exception in f ivor of sea life, and proceed 
 to gratify any fancy of appetite no matter how unreasonable. 
 But there is not the slightest reason why any one who knows 
 what is right and best to eat when ashore should throvv" away 
 that knowledge on shipboard. Good princiides are good the 
 world over. And the violation of them carries its conse- 
 quences on the ocean as well as on land. 
 
 The usual monotony of an ocean trip becomes an unusual 
 one on the Pacific. Very rarely are vessels met, except in 
 the vicinity of ports. And nothing breaks the monotony of 
 the sea as meeting or passing other vessels does. But days 
 and weeks pass on the Pacific without the sight of a passing 
 sail. 
 
 In the tropical waters, multitudes of flying fish skim over 
 the water, and occasionally one of extra strength or ambition 
 drops on the deck only quickl}^ to become the prey of some 
 curiosity seeker. They have slim, shining bodies, from six to 
 ten inches in length, though on one occasion on the Indian 
 Ocean, we captured one that measured fifteen inches. Their 
 
1 i i-iy.i'm''. 
 
 ni 
 
 1 1 I 
 
 ' '» I 
 
 
 
 
DIVERSIONS AT SEA. 23. 
 
 wings are extended fins, the meshes of which are a gelatinous 
 substance. Their flights are from five to twenty yards, and 
 are frequently the means by which they escape from their 
 deadly enemy, the porpoise. 
 
 The i)orpoise is the swine among fishes, and usually runs 
 in schools. They have long, peaked noses, or snouts, are from 
 three to six feet in length, and often gambol about the vessel, 
 throwing themselves partially or entirely out of the water by 
 the force of the velocity with which they swim. They have 
 been known to attack men. Such an instance occurred lately in 
 the harbor of Auckland, New Zealand, where a boatman was 
 thrown into the water, and only saved himself from death by 
 these marauders by a vigorous fight with an oar. 
 
 Another fiimiliar object in those waters is the all)atross, 
 which patiently follows a vessel for many leagues. It is a 
 gaunt, stately bird with wings that stretch eight to ten feet 
 from tip to tip. The wings are slender for their length, and in 
 flying are moved so slightly that the movement is impercep- 
 tible except when the bird is rising from a momentary perch 
 on the rigging of a vessel, which it seldom takes, or from 
 lighting on some floating object. They are so common around 
 Cape of Good Ho[)e that the sailors there call them '' cape 
 sheep." Their plumage is white beneath, and generally a soft 
 gray on their backs. They possess powerful beaks with which 
 on one occasion they nearly saved the life of a suicide. On a 
 voyage between Auckland and Sydney we had on board a 
 man whose conscience and fears of justice made life a burden. 
 While conversing with a fellow-passenger, he suddenly sprang 
 overboard. The alarm was given at once, the engines were 
 reversed, and boats were sent back to pick the man up. The 
 only sign of his whereabouts was the huddle of albatrosses 
 about him. Like the sea gulls, whose big cousins they are, 
 they consider everything that goes over the ship's side their 
 
24 OUT OF THE WESTERX DOOR. 
 
 legal plunder, and live men are evidently no exceptions. At 
 least, thev ])li(Ml tiieir hills so vigorously that the man was 
 kept from sinking, and sometimes was lifted almost hodily out of 
 the water. His coat was stripped off, and his other garments 
 were torn to shreds. His face and body were fearfully lac- 
 erated. He was half an hour in the water, but was not drowned 
 when the boats reached him. The sailors brought him to the 
 deck, but through exhaustion and loss of blood the work was 
 coni[)leted, and according to his wish, he found rest in that 
 broad grave that ever yawns for its willing or unwilling vic- 
 tims — that grave whose tombstones of eternal rocks bear no 
 inscriptions, and reveal no secrets of who lies here or there. 
 
 Another attraction seen in all waters at night, but which is 
 much more noticeable in warmer climes, is the sparkling, glow- 
 ing phosphorescence in the ship's wake or along its sides. It 
 affords hours of amusement to watch this beautiful phenom- 
 enon. The agitation of the water at the ship's prow, along 
 its sides, and especially at the propeller, causes waves and lialls 
 of phosphorescent light to flash in the darkness. Many pleas- 
 ant evening hours are spent leaning over the ship's rail, mus- 
 ing on distant scenes, and watching the display of watery 
 fireworks. 
 
THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 WO thousand one hundred miles southwest of San 
 Francisco lie the Hawaiian Islands. No matter at 
 what season of the year they are approached, their 
 slopes always present the same graceful appearance 
 of living green. They are situated just south of the Tropic of 
 Cancer, and twenty degrees north of the equator. Perpetual 
 summer, with an average temperature of about seventy-five 
 degrees, and constant moisture on a fertile soil, are all the 
 conditions required to produce a paradisical scene of foliage, 
 fruits, and flowers. These conditions exist here, and the re- 
 sult is not wanting. To one accustomed to the scenery of the 
 regions of northern winters, a drive through Honolulu is en- 
 chanting. Nothing that he sees is familiar, and everything is 
 luxuriant in loveliness. 
 
 The Hawaiian, or Sandwich, Islands are as an oasis in the 
 vast desert of waters with which they are for many hundreds 
 
 of miles surrounded. The islands are eio'ht in number. In 
 ■"- . . . 
 
 afjyproaching that of Oahu, upon wdiich Honolulu is situated, 
 
 we pass Molokai on the left, where is located the leper settle- 
 ment. This dread disease has obtained a lamentable foothold 
 in the little kingdom, and as fjist as the disease appears, the 
 victims are transported to this colony, where they are sup- 
 ported at the expense of the government. Among the fellow- 
 passengers with us from San Francisco, was Father Conradi, 
 who was giving his life to the interest of this wretched settle- 
 ment ; for it is established that no one who has been with 
 
 [25] 
 
< 
 
 
KILACEA. 27 
 
 tliem long enough to have received the infection, is allowed to 
 return. He was a Catholic priest, a man of education and 
 refinement, and of a gentle. Christian disposition and de})ort- 
 ment. Not long after that, the world heard of the death of 
 Father Damien, to whose assistance this priest was going. 
 Many sad scenes are witnessed at the wharf in Honolulu from 
 which the little steamer sets out for the island, often bearinu' 
 from home and friends a loved one who will never return, but 
 who is thus consigned to a living, lingering death from whose 
 power there is no human relief. 
 
 The islands are of volcanic origin and character. For 
 sublimity and general attractiveness their scenery is very 
 justly celebrated. The volcanoes, both active and quiescent, 
 are the largest in the world. The crater of Kilauea, which 
 forms a part of the mountain called Ma una Loa, ofi'ers the 
 grandest spectacle in the shape of an active volcano to be 
 found in all the Avorld. It is situated on the island of HaAvaii, 
 or Owyhee, the largest of the group. The main mountain 
 rises to an altitude of 14,000 feet, but the mouth of the crater 
 is only 6000 feet above the sea. This crater is nine miles in 
 circumference, and contains, in the center, an immense bed of 
 lava in a constant state of fusion and commotion. At times it 
 rises and overflows its confines, carrying destruction in its 
 path to the sea. A trip to this crater is attended with incon- 
 venience and some danger; but those who make it will ever 
 after thank the good fortune that led them to behold the most 
 impressive spectacle of the kind to be found in all the world. 
 The real danger of the trip is, however, generally overstated 
 by travelers who like to infuse the heroic into their exploits ; 
 for notwithstanding the apparent risk of being swallow^ed up 
 by the infernal regions, the constant stream of visitors has so 
 far escaped. The outbreaks are preceded by warning sounds, 
 and the flow of lava is sufiiciently slow to allow ample time 
 

 
 < 
 
 CO 
 
HOW THEY LIVE. 29 
 
 for retreat. The distance by sea from Honolulu to Ililo, the 
 port of Owyhee, is 275 miles, and from there the ascent is 
 made by stage over a very good government road, a distance 
 of thirty miles. The hotels are good, and the exiDenses of the 
 trip are not unreasonable. 
 
 The native inhabitants of these islands are dark brown in 
 color, and partake of the universal indolent temperament which 
 prevails in all warm climates. Nature herself seems to con- 
 nive at laziness in these countries, and in a very kindly mood 
 provides the necessities of existence for only a small outlay of 
 labor; and these being supplied, the natives are generally con- 
 tent to dispense with the embellishments and ornamentation 
 which make such demands upon the time and strength of the 
 civilized world. Here the cocoanut palm, banana, plantain, 
 mango, bread fruit, and other food trees and plants, are of 
 indigenous growth, and all the fruits of those latitudes grow 
 nearly spontaneously. Fish are to be had for the catching. 
 As for clothing, neither their native customs nor the climate 
 demands much, and even the requirements of an encroaching 
 civilization are easily met ; so that in the enervating tem- 
 perature nature and custom have adjusted themselves to the 
 wants and comforts of the peoj^le. 
 
 Political aifairs in Hawaii have been no more settled than 
 the elements in the natural world. Disruption and turbulence 
 have frequently disturbed the surface as well as the founda- 
 tions of the island kinadom. Uncle Sam seems to have an idea 
 that it would be a good thing for both parties if he were to put 
 the island in his overcoat pocket; but Uncle John Bull shakes 
 his head as if to say, " Ho no. Lulu ; you can 't 'ave it." 
 
 Revolutions have been comparatively bloodless, and treason 
 has been easily condoned. The recently -formed republic is 
 not satisfactory to a very large class, for there are many who 
 sigh for independent royalty, while others clamor for member- 
 
►J 
 o 
 
CHANGES, PAST AND FUTURE. 31 
 
 ship in the American federal family. To the aA^erage native it 
 matters but little, so long as his pipe and stomach are filled. 
 
 So far as the natives themselves are concerned, they seem 
 to be of a docile, peaceable nature. They are easily led by 
 designing men, of whom there are not a few scattered here and 
 there over the earth, in Hawaii as well as in other places. 
 Then, too, there are business men whose interests lead them 
 to desire a change in the relations and policy of the govern- 
 ment, and these desires rest in some cases upon a reasonable 
 basis. It is the custom of our day for the larger to swallow up 
 the smaller fry. Consolidation of interests, — aggrandizement 
 of the great by absorbing the weak, — is one of the principal 
 laws of human progress. In the natural drift of events a few 
 decades will witness the disappearance of most of the smaller 
 kingdoms as independent governments, and their absorption by 
 the greater and aggressive nations. It will be admitted that 
 the benefits of the change do not all redound to the absorber. 
 
 A most remarkable change has come over the social aspect 
 of the islands since the introduction of Christianity. They 
 were discovered by Captain Cook in 1778. This great explorer 
 did not treat the simple natives as he should have done, but 
 was unkind and even cruel to them. They received the im- 
 pression that he was vested with supernatural powers, and this 
 belief was strengthened by the sight of his ships, wdiich they 
 called floating islands. Captain Cook not only allowed but 
 even encouraged this impression. But upon a subsequent visit 
 he became involved in trouble with them over the loss of a 
 boat. It is said that the natives desired to test his divinity 
 by a prick with a spear. He w^inced in the ordeal, thus 
 revealing that he w^as but human, therefore they quickly dis- 
 patched him before the boats from the ship could reach 
 the spot. 
 
[32] 
 
 Queen Lil. 
 
ADIEU HAWAII. 33 
 
 The first missionaries who visited the ishiiids came from 
 America in 182U. Aljout this time they had voluntarily de- 
 stroyed their idols and temples, and the whole paraphernalia 
 of heathen worship. The missionaries found the people with-' 
 out a reliiiion. Thev were kindlv received, and the work of 
 education at once began; consequently in a few years the 
 entire kiniidom was l)rouo;ht to an acknowledgment of the 
 religion of Christ. But Satan came also. And the strife 
 between vice and virtue, good and evil, still goes on. The 
 people still exhibit a childish susceptibility to the influence of 
 those who have their confidence, and are content to pursue 
 life in an aimless manner, if their present wants are supplied. 
 The most of them like to smoke tobacco ; nor do the men have 
 a monopoly of this habit. 
 
 There are many birds of beautiful plumage in these and 
 other islands, yet but few are blest with musical faculties. And 
 saying this we perhaps ought to except the mosquitos, which, 
 on account of their size and active qualities, almost belong to 
 the bird species. They are numerous, musical, energetic, 
 and have an evident relish for the blood of a visitor. 
 
 As a stranger contemplates the easy phase which life 
 assumes in these luxuriant regions, he almost wishes that he, 
 too, could live in Honolulu. But if he is looking for paradise, 
 then a short stay will convince him that he must move on. 
 And so we leave the little island country, thankful for the 
 privilege of becoming acquainted with its beauty and for ex- 
 periencing the kind hospitality of new-found friends. 
 
 On the opposite page w^e present a correct portrait of the 
 last sovereign, Queen Liliuokalani, familiarly called "Queen 
 Lil," wdio w^as deposed in 1893 to make room for the republic. 
 

 
 It 
 
 i 
 
 i f I -y 
 
 1 ' 
 
THE ISLAND WORLD. 
 
 ^-.^^.C\-g ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ ^^^^ Wt)rkl, the New World, the 
 1^ Oriental, and the Western AVorld. Tn this chapter 
 we enter what may appropriately be called the 
 Island World. The geographical name for this 
 world is Oceania. It is called the sixth division of the alobe, 
 though as for that, it might with equal propriety be called the 
 third, according as we enumerate the other continents. By 
 grouping Europe, Asia, and Africa together, and the Americas 
 into a second division, Oceania and Australasia become the 
 third; by counting each of the continents as a separate 
 division, Oceania is the seventh ; or by counting the Old 
 World continents separately, and the Americas as . one, and 
 Australasia separately, Oceania becomes the sixth division. 
 
 Sailing southwest from the Hawaiian Islands, we enter 
 this unique world at a central point. From the southeastern 
 shores of Asia and from the eastern shores of Australia, this 
 great family of islands stretches away in a southeasterly 
 direction across about two thirds of the width of the Pacific 
 Ocean, nearly to the shores of South America. Eight thou- 
 sand miles would scarcely cover the distance from western 
 Malaysia to Pitcairn on the southeast. The islands are 
 divided into four great families, Malaysia, Micronesia, Melanesia, 
 and Polynesia. Each of these comprises numerous smaller 
 groups and single islands. Speaking of them as a whole, the 
 islands are either of coral or of volcanic origin. The excep- 
 tions to this rule are very few. It is believed 11i;;t the coral 
 
 [35] 
 
,'?,"it,il*iAt*f.#i\iLii;5%ll 
 
 mffiimMfw 
 
CORAL ISLANDS. 37 
 
 islands have for their foundations, rocks which have heen 
 upheaved by volcanic action, but which have not come to the 
 surface, and upon these the wonderful little builders have 
 begun their work. Coral is a calcareous deposit of minute 
 l)lant-animals classed as zoophytes. By the action of countless 
 millions of these creatures, thousands of islands have been 
 created, many of which have become the habitations of men. 
 The coral islands are of low formation, generally not rising in 
 any place more than a few feet above the level of the sea. 
 Many are surrounded by a reef of the same formation, which 
 lies but a short distance outside the island, and forms a lagoon 
 of placid water about it. Often the island consists of this reef 
 only, the central portion being a lake of salt water encircled 
 by a low ridge of coral rocks forming a wreath of palm trees. 
 The circles are not always complete ; they may be but a seg- 
 ment with the arc toward the prevailing wind, and perhaps a 
 submero-ed line of coral rocks forms the chord of the arc. The 
 soil which has been formed on these islands is a vegetable 
 mold, very rich, and hence vegetation is exceedingly rank. 
 
 Volcanic islands exist where the upheaval has been more 
 complete, rocks having been thrown by subterranean forces 
 above the water aenerallv to considerable height. Sometimes 
 the shores of these islands rise like walls from the ocean 
 de])ths to such a height as to be not only inaccessible but ex- 
 tremelv orand. In other cases the center of the island is the 
 apex of the pile from which the surface slopes in more or less 
 gentle lines to the shore. These islands present upon approach 
 an interesting and imposing appearance. In the dim distance 
 their ragged outlines at first look like clouds on the horizon. 
 But upon nearer approach, they assume the color of living 
 green, and at last appear in the attractive loveliness of luxuri- 
 ant foliage,. in which they are completely clothed from crown 
 to water s edge. 
 
38 THE JSLAXI) WORLD. 
 
 The volcanic soil is A'cry fertile, and the waiin. humid 
 climate unites with the ciiiickly-responsive ground, and pro- 
 duces vegetation in nature's most hountiful measures. Indige- 
 nous to these islands we lind, among other trees, the cocoa- 
 palm growing spontaneously. Its green fruit furnishes a 
 delicious, cool, and nutritious drink. The milk of the green 
 cocoanut is a}it to impress a northerner untavorahly at the 
 first drink, but his prejudice soon gives way to a hearty relish 
 for the product of this tropical cow. This figure is not inap- 
 propriate, since our four-footed cows furnish us with food in 
 milk, butter, and cheese while livinji, and when thev are 
 killed, men eat their flesh, wear their skins, and even utilize 
 their hair. Likewise with the palm tree ; its uses for man- 
 kind are numerous. Its fruit furnishes food and drink in a 
 variety of forms, and in its destruction it still administers to 
 the wants of men. 
 
 In some varieties there is a cabbage formation at the top'of 
 the trunk, which is not unlike the vegetable after which the 
 " cabbaae i>alm" is named, and it is used in the same wav. 
 From the pith of other varieties, sago is manufactured. The 
 wood is used in the construction of dwellinas, while of the 
 fibrous bark, matting is made, such as we often see in the halls 
 and aisles of our i)ublic buildings. There are more than five 
 hundred species of the palm, and it is probable that no other 
 class of the veoetable world is so serviceable to mankind, 
 unless we be called upon to except the grasses. May we 
 not then from these fiicts call the palm the islanders' cow ? 
 
 Palm trees have a slender, straight trunk, which, in the 
 case of the cocoa-palm, often grows to a height of more than 
 fifty feet. There being no branches, the leaves grow out of 
 the body of the tree in a tuft at its top. The leaves of the 
 different species vary in form ; some are very broad, and from 
 these the common palm-leaf fans are made. Others are long 
 
THE PALM. 
 
 39 
 
 and >-;lenJer in form, among which there is a kind whose 
 leaves, we are told, sometimes grow fifty feet h)ng and eight 
 feet broad, though none such came under my observation. 
 These enormous leaves are pinnated, — that is, divided into 
 narrow stri}»s, — and fiom what I liave seen, I am not led to 
 
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 mM\ 
 
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 V 
 
 
 
 t - 
 
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 m,.,.it 
 
 hI 
 
 
 
 S H 
 
 mm 
 
 
 i^&^^..-.. 
 
 • - .^-ii "'_£.-.. _ 'B 
 
 
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 C. 1 
 
 r" '''' 
 
 ^■;' ..r'-->^t'^ ''i'. -: 
 
 \' " ■ 
 
 ■■'-'»'■ ".m 
 
 
 
 ■ 'o" --■""-■ ''•^' 
 
 
 
 IP 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Gatheuixo Cocoanuts. 
 
 doubt the statement referred to. Cocoanuts, both in the fresh 
 state and dried, form the principal article of export from the 
 islands. The dried article is called "copra." 
 
 Besides the palm, we find growing luxuriantly and every- 
 where the banana plant, the fruit of which forms a staple 
 article of food and commerce. Then there are guavas, man- 
 goes, pineapples, and other tropical fruit ; and these, with 
 bread-fruit, yams, and arrowroot, form the principal diet of 
 the natives. 
 
40 THE ISLAND WORLD. 
 
 The inhabitants of Oceania seem to be descendants of a 
 common stock, though whence they came is unknown. It 
 is believed, upon what seems to be good authority, tliat the 
 Samoan Ishmds w^ere the home of the orioinal ancestry. Thev 
 formerly built immense canoes with decks, capable of carrying 
 more than a hundred people. With such vess-els it w;is not 
 difhcult to scatter themselves throughout the entire island 
 region. 
 
 Entering Oceania as already indicated, by the not very 
 fast boats of the " Oceanic" line, a distance of two thousand 
 seven hundred miles south and a little west from Honolulu, 
 we come to Apia on the island of Upolu, of the Samoan group. 
 This group is a member of the Polynesian famil^^ Among 
 other groups included in this division are the Fiji group, — con- 
 sisting of about two hundred and eighty islands and islets, 
 eighty-seven of which are inhabited, — Tonga, Society, and the 
 Low Archipelago. The Society Islands are under French do- 
 minion, and with the names of some of them many of our 
 readers are already fVimiliar through their knowledge of the 
 missionary work_^ which has been done upon them. Among 
 them we may mention Tahiti, Raiatea, and Ilurutu. 
 
 The Polynesians are among the finest specimens of abo- 
 rioines to be found in the world. Thev are of good stature and 
 physique, erect and dignified, and in youth many of both 
 sexes are handsome. As the steamer enters the harbor and 
 drof»s anchor at some distance from the shore, we are quickly 
 surrounded by canoes loaded with natives and their wares. 
 With surprising agility a portion of each boat's occupants 
 clambers to the ship's deck, while the others proceed to pass 
 uv) the various articles which thev ha^e brouuht out for sale. 
 The fruit of the land is well represented, and the passengers 
 are generally anxious to invest in something to eat that is fresh 
 from the shore. There are also beautiful baskets of coral of 
 
^V.l Tl VE CHAR A CTER. 
 
 41 
 
 every variety of form, and an interestini>; assortment of hand- 
 made trinkets and curios, in which we wouhl gladly invest 
 were it not for the trouble of transporting them. However, we 
 purchase a piece of" tappa," or native cloth, for a table spread. 
 This curious fabric has been neither spun nor woven, but is 
 made bv beatinii- the inner bark of the bread-fruit tree into 
 a very thin layer <»f pulp, and then beating several of these 
 layers into one. When the cloth is dried, it is painted in rude 
 
 Our Steamer at Samoa. 
 
 and fantastic patterns, and is used for articles of clothing ; but 
 since the introduction of more civilized trade, cotton cloth has 
 taken the place of their own tappa for the wardrobe. Still, 
 considerable is made by the more primitive classes, and offered 
 for sale to travelers. 
 
 The people of all these islands are exceedingly childlike and 
 simple in their characters and their culture. Their traditions 
 abound in ridiculous superstitions. Their aflections are strong 
 but fickle, and their malice, though easily excited, is readily 
 appeased. They were, when discovered by the white men, 
 

 
 r'jf J- 
 
 ,«*:. 
 
 ',<* 
 
 IT,-',- ■■!"'y.\j. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 7i 
 
 
NATIVE CHARACTER. 
 
 43 
 
 true children of nature, subject to the passions of the natural 
 heart, yet tractable, docile, and very impressible under jiood 
 influences. Their simple habits of living and primitive diet, 
 which is- almost purely vegetarian, have doubtless contributed 
 largely to making them what they are — })hysically fine speci- 
 mens of mankind, in nature childlike and susceptible to good 
 impressions. The fact that in some instances they were 
 actual cannibals does not invalidate the principles alluded to ; 
 namely, that the diet and the habits of living have an effect 
 upon the character. People of every nation and clime are 
 witnesses to that truth. Cannibalism was originally connected 
 with their heathenish religion and superstition, rather than 
 being a part of their chosen dietary. They were real chil- 
 dren of fallen human nature, savage by instruction and 
 birth ; but their simi)le manners of life have made them easily 
 accessible to those who work for their good as well as to the 
 evil minded. 
 
 The most westerly division of Oceania is ^Malaysia, which 
 lies adjacent to Asia. This group includes the largest islands. 
 East of Malaysia and north of the equator we find Micronesia, 
 and to the South, Melanesia ; while Polynesia stretches away 
 to the southeast toward the coast of Chili. 
 
»v 
 
 P? 
 
 ' . 
 
 Pi 
 
 
 hh 
 
 / , 
 
 < 
 
 i''.', 
 
 (J 
 
 •'t' 
 
 jH 
 
 ^, 
 
 o. 
 
PITCAIRN. 
 
 'T the farthest extremity of the Polynesian family 
 lies the famous Pitcairn Island. It is an irreuular 
 pyramid of volcanic rock two miles in diameter, 
 with shores almost inaccessible, except in one place. 
 Its soil is fertile, and it shares the rich vegetable growth of its 
 distant companions. In the year 1790 this lonely island 
 became the asylum of certain British sailors, of the ship 
 " Bounty," who had mutinied against the tyrannical rule of 
 their oflicers. After setting the captain and his party adrift 
 in a small boat, they took charge of the ship, and sailed her 
 back to Tahiti, which they had lately left. Some of the crew 
 chose to remain there. The others, being joined by some 
 native men and women, sailed in search of the little lone 
 island of whose whereabouts the world had nothing more than 
 a hint. Having been fortunate in finding it, they effected a 
 landing, destroyed the ship, and sunk her guns. But trouble 
 arose in the party, which finally resulted in murder. The 
 quarrel proceeded until but four males were left upon the 
 island. One of these, having succeeded in distilling <a spirit 
 from the fermented sap of the ti tree, gave himself up to 
 inebriety, and in this state fell over a cliff, and was killed. 
 Another one of the remaining men likewise became an inebri- 
 ate, and was finally put out of the way by the two survivors. 
 These two survivors were named Young and Adams, the 
 former of whom soon died. Among the effects saved from the 
 " Bounty " were a Bible and a prayer-book. While a boy, 
 
 [45] 
 
IlLSTORY OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 47 
 
 Adcims had learned to read and Avrite in the streets of London. 
 He now began to read the Bible, and collecting the children of 
 the little community, he formed a school, and taught them, as 
 well as the whole settlement, to resid the Scriptures. Public 
 worship was established after the forms of the Church of 
 England. The tone of morals was at once improved, and when 
 
 Bounty Bay, Pitcaikx. 
 
 the island was visited in 1808 and 1814, a model community 
 was found dwelling in peace, and cherishing the principles and 
 practices of purity. Since that time the island has been 
 visited at quite regular intervals. In 1831 all the inhabitants 
 were taken off to Tahiti, but not being satisfied, they returned 
 a few months later to their lonely, rocky island. In 1852-3 a 
 
[48] 
 
 A I'l.ji (niEF. 
 
HISTORY OF THE ISLAND. 49 
 
 dry season prevailed, and the island having become quite 
 crowded, the people reluctantly consented to go to Norfolk 
 Island, situated to the north of New Zealand ; but this migra- 
 tion did not prove wholly satisfactory. A few years later two 
 families, consisting of sixteen persons, returned to their old 
 home. These have been joined by others, and the two islands 
 have since remained closely related, though widely separated. 
 The population of Pitcairn is now a little over one hundred. 
 
 The principles implanted in the hearts of the people by 
 Adams were not suffered to die out by those on Pitcairn ; but 
 since that time they have lived in the enjoyment of the fruits 
 of peace. In their simplicity they have, to a great extent, had 
 all things in common, together striving for mutual improve- 
 ment. Passing vessels and the regular visits of the British 
 war ships have kept them in touch with the outer v/orld, yet 
 sufficiently isolated from its contaminations. 
 
 In the year 1886, Mr. John I. Tay, of San Francisco, 
 obtained a passage to the island, and was welcomed by its 
 inhabitants. He ^vas an active member of the Seventh-day 
 Adventist denomination. As the result of his visit, the 
 majority of the people^ of the island accepted the faith he 
 taught, and within a few months the remainder fell in with the 
 new-found faith. The revolution, though sudden and com- 
 plete, was accomidished peacefully, and to the entire satisfac- 
 tion of all concerned. 
 
 The people whose agent originated this movement, had but 
 just begun their work in the Pacific Islands. They had 
 established a society at Honolulu, and this was their second 
 effort in Oceania. Since that time they have built and 
 operated a missionary vessel named " Pitcairn." Their mis- 
 sionaries have visited many of the islands, and their work is 
 now" established in several of them. This people form but a 
 comparatively small body, but their activity is greater, in pro- 
 4 
 
o 
 
 < 
 
 \^ 
 
 o 
 
A PECULIAR PEOPLE. 
 
 51 
 
 portion, than their numbers ; for although their history dates 
 only from 184G, they are now found in all parts of the 
 world. 
 
 The name the}- have adopted suggests the principal peculi- 
 arities of their faith. They observe the seventh-day Sabbath 
 in harmony with the literal reading of the fourth command- 
 ment of the decalogue. Going back to creation, we learn that 
 
 Tahitian Girls. 
 
 God created all things in six days. In commemoration of 
 that w^ork, he sanctified the seventh day as the Sabbath, thus 
 forming the Aveek. The Seventh-day Adventists claim that 
 there is no scriptural account or authority for the change of 
 the Sabbath, but that it was instituted by the church after 
 her apostasy, and therefore that as Christ and the apostles 
 kept the ancient Sabbath, and did not sanction the change, 
 Christians ought to keep the seventh day as God commanded. 
 
O 
 
 fa 
 
 
RE:SULTS of CHRISTIANITY. 53 
 
 By their study of the prophecies of the Ohl and New 
 Testaments this people are convinced that these are the hist 
 days, and that the second coming of Christ is near. This 
 belief gives fervor to their work. As Christians they are 
 thoroughly evangelical. They inculcate the principles of 
 gospel truth. Their interpretation of the Scriptures is plain, 
 simple, and largely literal. Consequently it is not to be won- 
 dered at that in the simplicity of faith the islanders readily 
 adopted their teachings, and the observance of the seventh- 
 day Sabbath of the Bible. The effect of the change has not 
 been detrimental to the islanders in any way. Those who 
 were addicted to the use of tobacco and other bad habits, dis- 
 continued them, and a more careful and earnest Christian life 
 was instituted, which resulted shortly in the conversion of 
 nearly if not quite every soul on the island. A school has 
 been established by the denomination. The missionary spirit 
 has also come upon them, and there are now several of their 
 number preparing in various w^ays to work for the good and 
 uplifting of their fellow beings on other islands. 
 
 There is, perhaps, no other part of the world where Chris- 
 tianity can show such evident fruits as in Oceania. In many 
 instances the people, as a body, have accepted the religion 
 brought them by the white men. It is true that it has in 
 many instances been in a very nominal way, and it is also true 
 that with the introduction of light, vices and wickedness have 
 been brought in ; but it shows that the people, as a race, are 
 tractable and susceptible to good influences. Moreover it is 
 true here, as in other places, that where the gospel gathers its 
 trophies for eternal life, sin and vice mark their victims for 
 deo'radation and death. 
 
Q 
 
 Oh 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 AS8ING through the midst of Oceania in the direc- 
 tion in Avhich we enter it, we come to the islands of 
 Xew Zeabind. The distance from San Francisco to 
 Auckland is 5375 miles. After sojourning for a 
 time among the minute specks of land which generally com- 
 pose these parts of Oceania, it is with quite a degree of com- 
 fort that we retire at night upon an island so large that we feel 
 no danger of falling out of bed into the ocean. New Zealand 
 consists chiefly of two main parts, known respectively 
 as the North and South Islands, thougli ([uite commonly 
 the latter is called Middle Island, out of respect for a small 
 one which lies still south of the principal body, and which is 
 also called South, or Stewart's Island. The group is nearly 
 one thousand miles long, and two hundred miles wide at the 
 broadest part. The coast line is over three thousand miles in 
 in extent. New Zealand lies one thousand two hundred 
 miles east of Australia. It was discovered by Tasman, in 
 1642, and afterward visited by Captain Cook in 1769. The 
 area is estimated at over one hundred and twenty thousand 
 square miles, of which North Island contains forty-four thou- 
 sand four hundred and sixty-seven, and South Island over 
 fifty-eigh t thousan d . 
 
 New Zealand enjoys the distinction of being the first coun- 
 try of importance to receive the new-born day. As is quite 
 well known, the 180th dearee of longitude east or west of 
 Greenwich has been agreed upon as the line where the day 
 
 [55] 
 
56 NE]V ZEALAND. 
 
 sliall 1)0 changed. This is called tlie '' day line." It passes 
 just east of New Zealand ; and in crossing the line, going 
 west, a day is ski|)})ed or dropped ; that is, a new day is 
 begun. In crossing toward the east, the opposite course is 
 imrsiied ; that is, a day is repeated. The change is made by 
 sailors in the night in which the vessel is nearest the line, so 
 that in one case if the passenger goes to sleep on Tuesday 
 evening, he wakes up on Thursday morning. If, on the other 
 hand, he is going east, and retires on Tuesday evening, he 
 wakes up and finds it Tuesday morning again. 
 
 The reason for this will be apparent upon a little careful 
 thought ; for it is always sunset at some point on the earth, 
 and always sunrise, and noon, and midnight, at other points at 
 the same time. Let us imagine that we could travel around 
 the earth as rapidly as the earth revolves upon its axis, and 
 we start out from London, or from any other place, at sunrise, 
 on Tuesday morning,. and travel west. It would remain sun- 
 rise of the same day with us all the time; but wdien we came 
 to the starting-place, we would have to call it next day ; for 
 those who remained there would have had noon, sunset, 
 
 midnight, and now would have their second morning, which 
 would be Wednesday. Therefore we must change our reckon- 
 ing, so that at that instant in any place east of London we 
 would call it Tuesday morning, but at any point west of that 
 line, it would be Wednesday. That would be the place where 
 the day would change ; but for convenience men have chosen 
 a line that passes through no habitable country, and have 
 fixed that point as a place where the day should change. We 
 may believe, too, that this is the line on which the Maker 
 designed that the new day shall begin. Now it makes no 
 difference at what time we cross that line either way ; we 
 must recognize that it is one day on one side of it, and another 
 day on the other side. The line chosen is the 180th meridian 
 
BAY LIKE. 
 
 57 
 
 of longitude from Greenwich, which we cross just before reach- 
 ing New Ze.'dand from the coast ; this being so, we see how 
 the day comes first to New Zealand. 
 
 Some people imagine that they see in this circumstance a 
 difficulty in observing the Sabbath ; but instead of there being 
 a difficulty, this is the very provision by which all difficulty in 
 the matter is obviated. By this arrangement each day is 
 
 QUEENSTOWN, NeW ZEALAND. 
 
 measured off by one revolution of the earth ; and when it is 
 finished,. it is discharged from the calendar, and a new one 
 takes its place at this point. Hence, wherever we may be on 
 the face of the earth, the day comes to us with its full meas- 
 ure of twenty-four hours, and then is succeeded by another of 
 exactly equal length. It is true that by traveling east or west 
 the length of the day may be varied ; but at the day line these 
 variations are all rectified, and in circumnavigating the globe 
 one finds that he has done so without disarranging his calendar. 
 
[58] 
 
 A Maori Chief. 
 
THE MAORIS. 59 
 
 The population of New Zealand, in 1891, exclusive of 
 aborigines, was nearly six hundred and twenty-seven thou- 
 sand, and these are, with hut few exceptions, the immediate 
 descendants of those who came from Great Britain. But the 
 transient visitor is more interested in becoming acquainted 
 with the aboriginals than with the people of his own kith and 
 kin. These are called Maoris. The name is pronounced by 
 giving the " a" the broad sound, as in "ah," then sounding 
 the '' 0," though it is commonly but incorrectly^ pronounced as 
 if spelled '• Mowries." The}^ numbered at the last census, over 
 forty-one thousand. They have been regarded as standing 
 rather in advance of any other aboriginal or savage people ever 
 discovered. It is true that they practiced cannibalism to some 
 extent, and were addicted to the vices of the natural heart, 
 besides having since learned others with which men in their 
 simple state seem to be apparently unacquainted ; but they 
 also possessed a high degree of intelligence, and an independ- 
 ent and self-reliant spirit. Their traditions and religion 
 evinced a hidier degree of intellectual discernment than is 
 generally exhibited by savages ; and, strange as it may seem, 
 there are to be found in these traditions many remarkable 
 similarities to the Bible account of creation and the subse- 
 quent destruction of the earth by a flood, and also of redemp- 
 tion, their god Maui being the reputed saviour of his race. 
 
 The history of New Zealand and of its occupation by 
 Europeans is in many respects a repetition, on a small scale, of 
 the transformation of the United States from a land of wild- 
 ness and savagery to a country of prosperous civilization. 
 Encroachment and cruelty have bgen inflicted oftentimes by 
 the superior race, and cunning and reckless revenge have 
 often been employed in retaliation. Relentlessly has civiliza- 
 tion pushed its way step by step into the regions of untutored 
 life. Wisdom and justice have not always attended these 
 
60 
 
 JSTEW ZEALAND. 
 
 steps, and when, finally, the poor natives could bear no more, 
 a bloody massacre would be executed by the exasperated 
 Maoris, which would call down upon them the wrath of the 
 survivors and of the sympathizing whites. Gradually the 
 original race is fading away. The introduction of civilization 
 brought with it vices to which the simple races were unac- 
 customed, and to which they have ever proved such easy vic- 
 
 GisBORNE, New Zealaxd. 
 
 tims. Under the blighting influence of drunkenness and 
 licentiousness, these human flowers of the wild woods have 
 withered away. Still, Christianity has done a good work for 
 the Maoris in nearly every part of the country. To some 
 degree nearly all of those who remain have embraced its 
 teachings and come under its influences. It is said that soon 
 after the introduction of Christianity the entire race received 
 it, so that the pioneer missionary, Samuel Marsden, exclaimed 
 that " a race of pagans has been Christianized." But the 
 
A MAORI PORTRAIT. 61 
 
 cupidity and dishonesty practiced by other white men lead 
 many of the natives to prefer their heathen religion to that 
 system which to them seemed to embrace such cruelty ; there- 
 fore they returned to it for a time. 
 
 The Maoris are of a brown color. Their hair is straight, 
 and their features not at all repulsive, except as they are 
 made so by the favorite custom of tatooing. By this process 
 an indelible coloring matter is introduced into the skin in 
 fanciful and fantastic patterns by a painful operation. Some- 
 times they who have been thus disfigured, desire to appear 
 more civilized than those marks will permit; but the die hav- 
 ing been cast, the case cannot be altered ; the marks must be 
 retained through life. 
 
 It was quite amusing to witness, upon one occasion, the 
 discomfiture of a Maori chief on being made aware of his 
 appearance, as it was probably the first revelation of himself 
 that had ever come to him. We were lying in the beautiful 
 Bay of Islands on a lovely day, during which time the steamer 
 was coaling and taking cargo at different wharves. There 
 were at times quite a large number of Maoris on the decks 
 looking for something with which to amuse themselves. They 
 discovered that my son, then a lad of ten years, had some 
 skill in the use of his pencil, and sought to make a practical 
 use of his talent. After considerable persuasion he was in- 
 duced to draw the portrait of the chief above referred to, 
 whose face was badlv disfiaured with tatoo marks. The artist 
 located himself with paper and pencil, and the old man com- 
 posed his features and vesture with care and dignity, and sat 
 stone still for five minutes, when the picture was done; and it 
 was really quite true to life. 
 
 But it was a sight to behold the old man's countenance as 
 he looked upon what purported to be a representation of his 
 own physiognomy. He rejected the imputed likeness with 
 
62 
 
 lYJ'JW ZEALAND. 
 
 great disdain and evident disgust, which he expressed with 
 earnest words that we could not understand, but which 
 alarmed the boy artist ; but the displeasure of the subject 
 was more than overmatched by the amusement of the younger 
 members of the company, who recognized and attested to the 
 faithfulness of the picture with shouts of laughter and re- 
 peated assurances of its correctness. This only added to the 
 discomfiture of the chief, who finally took the piece of paper, 
 and satisfied himself by carefully tracing on his face all the 
 marks on the picture, and then grunted his acknowledgment 
 of the likeness. 
 
 Maori Salutation. 
 
 The Maori method of greeting is by rubbing noses instead 
 of kissing ; and this ceremony, on extraordinary occasions, 
 such as a funeral or a formal reception, becomes, as I have 
 been told by them, and as one can well imagine, a tedious and 
 sore proceeding, after the hundredth rubbing of the same nose. 
 
A NIGHT AT SEA. 63 
 
 It was on this trip to the north that I had my first experi- 
 ence in seasickness. We left Auckland late in the evening on 
 board a little coaster called the " Clansman." Within the 
 harbor all was quiet enough, and we little suspected what 
 awaited us outside, so we went to our berths at once, antici- 
 pating a good night's rest ; but once upon the open sea, we 
 found ourselves tossing and plunging about under a fierce 
 storm of wind and rain from the east, which blow directly 
 against the rock-bound coast along which we sailed. Tliere 
 were three of us in a two-berth cabin, and it fell to my lot to try 
 to occupy the settee; but my principal employment was falling 
 off and aettino' on a^ain. The storm increased till morning. 
 
 At three o'clock there came an unusuall}^ great sea, which 
 sent our little craft so f^ir over that it seemed to hesitate as 
 to whether it would come back or not. I began to think that 
 it might not, and the women and children were quite sure of 
 it, as I judged by their screaming. While the steamer was 
 deciding the matter, it was struck by another wave that sent 
 it a few degrees farther over, and by this time the writer was 
 trying to hold onto the floor, having abandoned the bed. 
 The dishes in the racks came down with a crash, and many 
 barrels of sea water came down the gangway, adding greatly 
 to the dismay of the already terribly frightened women. In 
 that moment of suspense I lost my grip on my digestive ap- 
 paratus, and I have since known all about what seasickness is. 
 
 We knew, however, that we were in the care of our heavenly 
 
 7 7 V 
 
 Father, and had no feeling of terror, though the night was 
 pronounced by the captain to be one of the worst he had ever 
 experienced. The sight of the sea the next morning was 
 orand and awful. Wo were not far from the cliffs against 
 which the massive waves hurled themselves with gigantic 
 force and thundering roar, sending foam and spray a hundred 
 feet into the air. 
 

 n: 
 
 (3 
 
 iz; 
 P 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
SCENERY OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 HE scenery of New Zealand is classed, and right- 
 fully, too, amongst the most beautifnl in the world. 
 Its deeply indented coast abounds with rocky preci- 
 pices and beetling crags. 
 It would be impossible to give, within the limits of this 
 sketch, an adequate description of the many places of surpass- 
 ing interest to be found in this island country. Indeed, North 
 Island is nearly everywhere a scene of beauty. As we sailed 
 into the narrow entrance of Whangaroa harbor, there, upon 
 the face of a lofty cliff, was outlined, in natural rock, the like- 
 ness of a profile said very correctly to represent that of Lord 
 Nelson; for this reason his name is given to the rock. The 
 forests are the most attractive that I have ever visited. They 
 consist of stately trees of kauri pine and other varieties of wood 
 unknown to our Northern clime, intertwined with wreaths and 
 loops and climbers, and interspersed with stately ferns. From 
 the kauri there exudes a resin-like srum of a beautiful, 
 amber color, which hardens into lumps as clear as crystal. 
 From trees and forests long extinct this gum has been 
 deposited in the earth, and it is a favorite employment 
 of the natives as well as many whites to search after and dig- 
 it. This is done by the use of sharp iron prods, with which 
 the ground is punched. This reveals the presence of masses 
 of gum, which are then dug out, secured, and sold to traders 
 who find a market for it in London. It is used in the manu- 
 
 facture of varnish and coloring matter. 
 
 [(55] 
 
GG 
 
 ISCEXERY OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Auckland is the principal city of North Island, and indeed 
 of the group, containing, together with its suburbs, about fifty 
 thousand inhabitants. It is situated on a narrow neck of land 
 where the island is nearly cut in two by the sea. It is a 
 beautiful city, pictures(iuely located on the green slopes of a 
 fine harbor. Within its suburbs stands Mt. Eden, an extinct 
 A^olcano, whose summit and crater is one of the principal 
 attractions of the i»l;icc. • 
 
 JwYTTLETOX, >,' KW ZlOALAM). 
 
 The Wonderland of New Zealand is located about one hun- 
 dred and sixty miles south of Auckland. Thirty-four miles of 
 this distance is traveled by coach from Oxford to Ilotorua. 
 This place seems to be separated from the notorious infernal 
 regions by a very thin skin of earthly substance. The air is 
 heavy with the odor of brimstone. First impressions are cer- 
 tainly not very assuring, and one is quite apt to wish himself 
 at a safe distance from a resrion that seems to threaten mo- 
 
WONDERLAND. 67 
 
 mentary (lestructioii and extinction. Then we reflect that 
 there are these people who have lived here for years ; h^nce 
 it would he a pity if we could not brace up our courage for a 
 few hours' sio-ht-seeiuff. 80 with a firm lirii) on our moral 
 courage, we dispel the trembling of the flesli. 
 
 In boiling springs, through fissures of the quaking ground, 
 throuo'h crevices and everywhere, heat, steam, and scalding 
 water, issue forth. The indolent natives have but to place 
 their uncooked food in pots or kettles in some boiling cal- 
 dron, and nature does the rest. The thermal springs have a 
 reputation for excellent therapeutic qualities. 
 
 Prior to 1886, Lake Rotomahana was a beautiful sheet of 
 w^ater, into whose bosom, over the most wonderful terraces of 
 pure white or pink deposits, the heated w^aters were poured. 
 The loveliness of these terraces travelers never tire of try- 
 ing to describe. The accumulating sediment brought up by 
 the water through the craters formed in exquisite patterns of 
 lace-work ; and one mioht stand on the maro^in of the craters, 
 and look far down into the limpid depths to behold still more 
 delicate forms below, as the simmering waters rose and flowed 
 gently over the brim of the beautiful white terraces. 
 
 But these scenes of beauty have passed away forever. In 
 the year just mentioned an eruption took place, by which the 
 place was greatly marred and changed. The beautiful ter- 
 races are no more. In their place and also in tlie lake are 
 rude heaps of blul)bering mud ; and yet its weirdness and 
 awe-inspiring aspect surely cannot have suffered in the revo- 
 lution. A recent writer in the Picturesque Atlas has thus 
 described this awful upheaval of nature : — 
 
 " Reference to the lost glories of Rotomahana naturally 
 carries the mind back to the incidents of the eruption. Soon 
 after one o'clock on the morning of June 10, 1886, the 
 inhabitants w^ere startled from their slumbers by shocks of 
 
Q 
 < 
 
 <1 
 
 
 
 'X 
 o 
 
THE ERUPTION. 69 
 
 earthquake, occurring at frequent intervals, and accompanied 
 by a prolonged rumbling noise. Before two o'clock their atten- 
 tion Avas concentrated upon a black and lowering cloud in a 
 highly electrical condition, which seemed to be settling down 
 over the truncated cone of the triple-peaked Mount Tarawera, 
 immediately at the back of Lake Rotomahana. A few minutes 
 later, a terrific explosion rent its broad top open from end to 
 end with a convulsive tremor that was felt along the East Coast. 
 
 '' For the next hour the awe-struck and tremblino- watchers 
 were witnesses of phenomena whose fierce vigor and dread 
 solemnity were enough to appall the heart of the stoutest. 
 Forked lightning played continuously about the peaks of the 
 mountain and its inky canopy, from which also fiery balls 
 darted hither and thither, flashing into broad ribbons of flame, 
 or dropping in showers of huge sparks. Blood-red tongues 
 issuing from the darkness lapped the face of the sky, and 
 vanished. Incandescent bombs rolled down the precipitous 
 sides of Tarawera ; the internal fires maintained their lurid 
 glare , and to add to the striking horrors of the scene, earth- 
 quake shocks at ten-minute intervals formed the prelude to 
 the fearful roaring of the volcano, which united with the 
 crackling of the electrical discharges to produce a vast and in- 
 describable noise. 
 
 "At Auckland, distant one hundred and twentv miles in a 
 direct line, and at the Bay of Islands, one hundred miles 
 f^irther north, the people were aroused from their sleep by 
 reports as of a war-vessel in distress, and they were heard also 
 as far south as Nelson and Christchurch in the sister island. 
 More than that, the flashes of light were seen at Gisborne aiul 
 Auckland, and the pungent gases which charged the atmos- 
 phere, and almost suffocated the denizens of the Lake Dis- 
 trict, were distinctly perceptible at Tauranga and Gisborne 
 during the fall there of the volcanic dust. 
 
70 
 
 SCENERY OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 '' Meantime, how fared the hapless residents? While a 
 l)itterly cold wind was raiiing with the force of a tornado 
 throngh I he devoted district, uprooting great trees in the 
 Tikitapn hnsh, the native inhabitants were being overwhelmed 
 in swift destruction. A tremendous ernption of scoriie, hot 
 stones, and licpiid mud }>onred down upon tlie Maori settle- 
 
 Wellingtox. 
 
 ments around the margin of Lake Rotomahana, and entombed 
 both them and their inhabitants, — Moura with its forty 
 people, and Te Ariki with its forty-five, while Te Wairoa 
 suffered less severely, only some ten or a dozen aborioinals 
 losing their lives. The two European hotels were wrecked ; 
 but all their terror-stricken inmates, save a 3'oung English 
 tourist named Edwin Bainbridge, were fortunate enough to 
 make good their escape. 
 
THE ERUPTION. 71 
 
 " On the morning after the eruption, the sun rose upon a 
 scene of mournful desolation. The eighteen miles of country 
 between Rotorua and Rotomahana (the prefix " Roto " signify- 
 ing "lake") were covered wdth a bluish-grey mantle of thick, 
 adhesive volcanic mud to an average depth of four inches, but 
 deepening as one approached nearer and nearer to Tarawera. 
 The somber surface of this deposit was dotted over with the 
 bodies of rats and mice, while homeless birds wheeled overhead 
 in affrighted bewilderment ; the pretty little oasis of Tikitapu 
 bush lay stretched in devastation ; the Blue Lake at its foot 
 had been transformed into a sheet of dirty brown water; the 
 Green Lake, Rotokakahi, had sunk its beauties in repulsive tur- 
 bidity; the ivliare roofs of Wairoa, peering above the solitude 
 of debris^ told their own mute tale of dire calamity ; Moura 
 and Te Ariki, with their scores of dead, were forever swal- 
 lowed up from human ken ; the terraces would no longer 
 ravish the eye of the beholder, and Rotomahana had suddenly 
 become a misnomer — from a lake it had been transformed 
 into a seething, steaming, and raging caldron of mud and slime." 
 
 The greater island is not so celebrated for its scenery as is 
 the northern one, but it has many points of interest in this 
 line. For the uses of agriculture, however, it is better adapted 
 than its neighbor, and the various branches of farming are suc- 
 cessfully carried on upon its interior plains. There are four 
 cities in New Zealand containing more than ten thousand in- 
 habitants each. Wellington, the capital city, is located at the 
 southern extremity of the North Island, and has a population 
 of thirty-three thousand. It is said that the inhabitants of 
 Wellington may be known by the habit they all have of holding 
 with one hand onto their hats. The city lies on Cook's Strait, 
 where a strong current of air nearly always prevails through 
 the narrow water channel. Consequently the capital city has a 
 reputation for wind that is exclusi^ ely its own. On the east- 
 
72 SCENERY OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 ern shore of South Tshmd are the cities of Christchurch and 
 Diinedin, each with a popuhition of about forty-five thousand. 
 
 The colony's staple articles of export are wool, frozen 
 meat, grain, and Kauri gum. Of the latter there was ex- 
 ported in 1890 and for four years previous, over seven thou- 
 sand tons annually. There are about two thousand miles of 
 railway in operation, but the railways are not all to the coun- 
 try that they might be, at least so it seems to one accustomed 
 to the thrift and business of the American railways. The 
 prices of transportation are held so unreasonably high that 
 but little choice is left w^ith the producer between leaving 
 his goods at home to spoil, or sending them away by rail 
 to have the produce consumed in freight and commission 
 charges. In consequence, fruits and other produce may be 
 abundant, and possess but little money value in the country 
 districts, while at the same time in the cities they are sold at 
 prices that are w^ell-nigh inaccessible to the poor. Speculation 
 and bad management have in the past done much to injure the 
 country, but in these things it is gratifying to know that a 
 reformation has been instituted, and the prospects are percepti- 
 bly brightening. 
 
 To most people the climate of New Zealand is very con- 
 genial. The northern extremity of the islands reaches to 
 about thirty-five degrees south latitude, and they extend 
 south to al)out forty-six degrees. This, it will be seen, 
 includes only the temperate regions. The atmosphere is 
 furthermore tempered by the close proximity of the sea on 
 every hand. 
 
 But the brief month of the limit of our stay in this beau- 
 tiful island country having now expired, we must take the 
 next boat for Sydney, the eastern doorway to the Australian 
 continent. We shall not have to wait long ; for the Union 
 Steamship Company have regular boats, and fine vessels they 
 
LEAVING NEW ZEALAND. 73 
 
 are, too. Besides these, there are the California boats once in 
 four weeks, and the irregular steamers. The distance from 
 Auckland is twelve hundred and eighty-one miles, and the 
 time occupied is between four and five days ; for though the 
 boats are comfortable, in point of speed they are not to be 
 compared to the "ocean greyhounds" of the Atlantic. 
 
 If there really be a " jumping-off' place," it is probably in 
 the region of the North Cape of New Zealand. The passenger 
 who turns this corner without experiencing such a shaking up 
 as he will not ask for again, is more fortunate than the general 
 average. It is here that Neptune and Boreas have one of 
 their favorite pla3^grounds, and happy is the man who slips 
 past while they are napping. We were not among that happy 
 few, but obtained our last view of New Zealand rocks at a 
 time when it seemed about as well to say good-by to the earth 
 altogether ; though, as for saying good-by, w^e had reached 
 that hard-hearted degree of seasickness ;ut which even fare- 
 wells had lost their interest. It really seemed as though w^e 
 were coming to the place where people walk with their feet 
 up ; for our heads went down, and our feet up, and vice 
 versa, until we hardly knew which way they belonged. 
 
 In support of the idea that this is the much-talked-of 
 jumping-off place, we have the Maori superstition. They call 
 the North Cape Te Reinga, which signifies the third hell. 
 This is, however, not so bad a place as it might be ; for there 
 are yet seven regions below, or worse than the third. To this 
 point of land all spirits of the dead are said to come ; and after 
 spending a short time upon the brow of the high cliff that 
 forms the extremity of the cape. ])emoaning their sins, they 
 plunge through the dark waters into the under world. 
 
WS'W !? ^!!'!^''^^''!^^^^*^^??^' 
 
 
 Q 
 
 
AUSTRALIA. 
 
 people ill the United States, Australia has ever 
 been the land that is far off. As a matter of fact, it 
 is as far away as any country on earth can be, on 
 account of its being nearer antipodal to us than any 
 other land. In our atlases its map generally occupies a small 
 portion of one of the back pages, and the description is meager 
 and incomplete. Consequently, in the minds of very many 
 people it has, up to a recent date, existed in a vague, indistinct 
 form. Its mime caused visions of kangaroos and naked 
 savages to arise in the mind. But within a few years the 
 perfection of the means of travel and intercommunication has 
 brought the remote portions of the earth very much nearer 
 the centers. Indeed, it does not require so great an outlay of 
 time and comfort to reach Australia, or even to circumnavigate 
 the globe, in these days, as it did to ci-oss the Atlantic in 
 1850. In consequence, the volume of travel is very greatly 
 increased. Multitudes are going hither and thither all over 
 the earth. To go around the world in these days does not pre- 
 sent as formidable considerations as it did to go from Chicago 
 to California in the days before the iron horse had crossed the 
 plains. 
 
 The results of this remarkable revolution in modes of con- 
 veyance are notable in many respects. Formerly generation 
 after generation lived and died without going out of sight of 
 their native hills. Under these circumstances, the languages 
 were molded into dialects peculiar to the various localities. It 
 
 r 7.-) ] 
 
70 AUSTRALIA. 
 
 was quite easy by the speech of nn Englishman to distinguish 
 the county in whidi he was born, if he happened to stray 
 from it; and even in America the peculiar talk of a Yankee, 
 a Southerner, or a Westerner might easily be discerned. 
 Under the present state of things, these distinctions are disap- 
 pearing, gradually, it is true, but yet perceptibly. Then, too, 
 the different portions of the earth are becoming acquainted 
 with each other, and this will certainly result in a more 
 brotherly feeling between those of various nationalities; and 
 this, too, we already very happily discern. It manifests itself 
 in a greatly increased interest in missionary affairs. Nor is 
 this manifestation confined to Christendom ; for, strange to 
 say, within the last few years the Orient has caught the same 
 spirit, and the religious systems of the East are seeking to 
 reciprocate the efforts of Christianity by sending their mes- 
 sengers to our shores. Already we have in various centers of 
 Christian light the representatives of the teachings of Moham- 
 med, Gautama, Confucius, and other earth-born philosophers. 
 Under the prevailing circumstances, our knowledge of the 
 world is greatly increasing, and new avenues of thought and 
 investigation are opening up. A^ we contemplate this state 
 of things, the mind irresistibly goes to the words of the 
 prophet Daniel, where, speaking of the time of the end, he 
 says that " many shall run to and fro, and knowledge shall be 
 increased." Dan. 12 : 4. There never was a time when these 
 words were so strikingly fulfilled as in what we witness every- 
 where to-day. In every direction trains and steamers are 
 rushing with ever-augmenting crowds of people running to 
 and fro. This commingling of men, — this free intercourse 
 between different and distant parts of the earth, — produces 
 necessarily an extraordinary activity of mind ; and an increase 
 of knowledge is the necessary result. Upon no other topics is 
 investigation more active than upon those themes which are 
 
FIRST GLIMPSES. 77 
 
 directly connected with the Bihle, and iiir greater light sur- 
 rounds the sacred Word to-day than ever before. This fact 
 in its turn promotes the spirit of brotherhood ; for as men come 
 to know more of the Bible, they will better realize the claims 
 which their fellows-men have upon them. The spirit of the 
 Bible is a spirit of helpfulness and uplifting. God in his prov- 
 idence has led the minds of men to invent and improve the 
 means of travel, as the spirit of l)il)le philanthropy leads 
 Christian men and women to utilize these means for the 
 spread of scriptural truth and the knowledge of the w^ay of 
 salvation in Christ. At the same time, Satan seizes his op- 
 [)ortunity to scatter darkness, sin, and crime by the same 
 means, and he does not fail to improve it. 
 
 The first glimpse we obtain of anything that belongs to 
 Australia, as we approach Sydney from the east, is the famous 
 light-house that stands at the Heads, or entrance of the harbor. 
 Its light is one of the most celebrated in the w^orld, and can 
 be seen fifty miles out on the sea. When on shipboard, the only 
 desideratum is to get to land ; and when at last the headlands 
 appear in the distance, there is an early preparation made for 
 the happy disembarkation, in order that not a moment may be 
 lost in getting the feet on terra firma. Having made the afore- 
 said preparations, let us take a seat upon the upper deck, 
 w^here we can w\atch the rapidly developing outlines of this 
 new land. 
 
 Numerous craft are passing in and out of the harbor. A 
 few miles to the south is the entrance to Botany Bay, which 
 has the unenviable, world-wide reputation of being the home of 
 the penal colony. As a matter of fact, all the notoriety given 
 it by common report does not belong to this particular location. 
 The first party of criminals deported from Great Britain to 
 Australia reached Botany Bay in 1787, but it was supplanted 
 in a very short time by the discovery of Port Jackson, now 
 
[78] 
 
 Sydney Heads. 
 
_ BOTANY BAY. 79 
 
 Sydney Ilarboi'. Still, the name of the penal settlement re- 
 mains identified with its first location ; and not only so, but 
 Botany Bay has become a generic term, in which is embraced 
 the entire enterprise of criminal deportation to iVustralia. As 
 soon as the country assumed sufficient strength to protest, it 
 raised such a cry against this unfortunate practice that it was 
 in a short time discontinued ; but it has left its reproach upon 
 Australia. Most unwisely was it inflicted, and it is unjustly 
 perpetuated in the minds of some who thereby entertain false 
 impressions of Australian society. 
 
 The entrance to Port Jackson is a narrow strait between 
 high walls of rocks. From the south cliff may be seen the for- 
 tifications and cannon which guard the harbor ; and in case 
 an enemy attempted to enter, several similar forts and cannon, 
 for there are a number of them, would no doubt wake up to 
 take a hand in the reception. But we enter peaceably, with- 
 out a challenge from the sentinels upon the ramparts, and now 
 a beautiful scene opens to view. The harbor broadens from 
 the entrance to an irregular width of perhaps : two miles. On 
 either side are deep indentations and bold promontories. The 
 banks are not lofty, and often sloj^e to the water carpeted with 
 living green. Here and there beautiful villas and gardens 
 appear. It is six miles to the city ; but w^e were not destined 
 to proceed ad libitum. Our steamer was moored in one of the 
 bays in which the harbor abounds, and upon inquiry we found 
 that the Chinese firemen who had toiled so faithfully to bring 
 us over the waters, were objectionable to the Maritime Labor 
 Union in Australia, and that this body had given our captain 
 the option of discharging the obnoxious Celestials, or not dis- 
 charging his cargo. Not feeling at liberty to accept either al- 
 ternative at once, his steamer lay several days in the harbor 
 before coming to the wharf; but after waiting a few hours, 
 the passengers were transferred by a tender to the city. 
 
80 AUSTRALIA. 
 
 The uninitiated traveler is generally filled with a feeling 
 little short of amazement as he views these Australian cities. 
 Having started from some of the world's great centers, and 
 now reached the antipodes, he expects to find many things 
 quite the reverse of what he is accustomed to at home. So he 
 will ; but generally he expects to find crudeness, an absence 
 of civilized thrift, and towns that are following, afar off, the 
 fag-end of progress and enlightenment. His very first view 
 of any of the half-dozen leading cities of Australia will scatter 
 that idea, and drive it so far from his mind that he will ahnost 
 declare that he never entertained it. He lands, perhaps, 
 at Darling Harbor or Circular Quay, in the heart of Sydne}", 
 and finds himself in a busy city of over four hundred thousand 
 people. This, of itself, is a great surprise to the new-comer. 
 As he traverses the streets, he finds them beautifully paved, 
 and many times cleaner than any street he ever saw in New 
 York, Chicago, or any of the other great cities in the United 
 States. The buildings are modern in style, and though not as 
 lofty as many seen in American cities, they are ornate, attract- 
 ive, and Aery substantial. He will miss street-cars in Sydney, 
 though the streets are crowded with omnibuses running on 
 regular lines, and carrying passengers at fares that are graded 
 according to the distance, from a penny to threepence. If his 
 point of destination is any of the suburbs, he goes one block 
 from the main street, where a system of steam trams is found, 
 by which he may comfortably and cheaply reach his destina- 
 tion. As he passes through the retail business part of town, 
 he notices that more pains are taken in arranging attractive 
 displays in windows than he has been accustomed to witness- 
 ing, and also that more time is taken by the passers-by to 
 view exhibitions than is done in rushing America, where a 
 man, if he should be seen going leisurely along, looking at pleas- 
 ant sights, would almost lose his reputation of being a man of 
 
SYDNEY STREETS. 
 
 81 
 
 business, and perhaps be looked upon as a very undignified 
 person, on account of condescending to such trifles. All 
 classes do it in Australia, however, and especially upon Satur- 
 day evenings, when the principal streets of every large town 
 are literally packed with people, and everybody, with his 
 wife and children, is out, seemingly simply bent on seeing what 
 he can see. The cleanliness of the streets to Avhich allusion 
 was made is secured by the aid of a small army of boys nrmed 
 with brushes and pans, wdio quickly and carefully remove any 
 litter as soon as it appears. 
 
« 
 o 
 w 
 
 w 
 
 K 
 O 
 
 c 
 
NATURAL AND SOCIAL PECULIARITIES. 
 
 AVINU "got our land-legs" again, we see people 
 walking as erect on this side of the \V(trld as on what 
 we are wont to regard the np})er side. They are 
 dressed in the advanced modes ol' modern fashions. 
 What then are the incongruities which we have already admitted 
 do exist ? These are not so marked or essential as people are 
 apt to suppose. I well remember the first thing that struck my 
 eye as peculiar, and that was the prevalence of two-wheeled 
 vehicles instead of the quadra-cycles that are usually em- 
 ployed for conveyances in America. 
 
 In Australia the evening reveals that we are in a strange 
 land, for as we look for the familiar north star, we realize that 
 it disappeared about the time when we crossed the equator; 
 the "big dii)per" too has gone, and we for the first time 
 realize how strongly people become attached in their minds to 
 the stars al)ove them ; for it actually seemed as though we 
 had lost some very dear objects. In their places our friends 
 of the Southern world pointed out to us the beautiful Southern 
 Cross which, like the dipper, revolves or rather swings around 
 a center, which in this case however is not marked by the 
 north star or any other. The Southern Cross consists of five 
 stars so set as to suggest very naturally the name that has 
 been given them, though one member of the constellation is 
 rather redundant, and quite out of line. Besides the " cross " 
 we see small fleecy bodies of light which are called tlie Magel- 
 lan Clouds. Altogether, the heavens present an unusual ap- 
 
 [s:;] 
 
84 NATURAL AND SOCIAL PECULIAUITIE^. 
 
 pearanee to the Northerner. Nor is the strangeness dispelled 
 by the return of daylight, for notwithstanding the sun rising in 
 the east, where it should rise, the visitor beholds that luminary 
 moving toward the north, with a swing around to the left, 
 instead of toward the right. At noon his shadow is projected 
 southward, and he finds the south side of buildings and trees 
 the shady side. Not only is the diarnal period thus demor- 
 alized for him, but the seasons also are as badly mixed up. If 
 he lands in the latter part of December, instead of taking a 
 sleighride in fur robes on Christmas-day, his friends take him 
 to an outdoor picnic, a steamer excursion, or what is more de- 
 lightful still, to camp in some cool mountain retreat among the 
 fern trees. Looking for the Fourth of July, he finds it in the 
 depth of winter, which is not very terrific, to be sure, though 
 the day has lost much of its character by the transfer from 
 Uncle Sam's dominions to those of the Queen ; and from the 
 midst of the heat of summer to the midst of winter. 
 
 Other points of diversity will be noticed at first, but they 
 are of such inconsequential significance that they soon pass 
 out of the mind, and cease to be noticed. They consist mostly 
 of idioms of speech and modes of work, that are strange to 
 those only who are unacquainted with the customs of England, 
 whence they have mostly been brought. 
 
 We shall suppose that the visitor is an uninitiated Ameri- 
 can who wishes to l>egin housekeeping, and sets out to find 
 the necessaries. He asks for a dry-goods store, but finds none, 
 there being a draper's shop instead. Wanting a bolt of sheet- 
 ing, he must inquire for calico in order to get it. If he wants 
 calico, he must ask for prints. He thinks he needs a pair of 
 rubbers, but he w^ill not find any one who understands his 
 wants unless he asks for galoshes, and even then he may not 
 get them, for they are not much worn. If his wife wants a 
 spool of thread, he must ask for a reel of cotton. When he 
 
ID 1 031 MITES. 85 
 
 goes to the grocery and asks for crackers, he is laughed at, 
 and tohl that he is from America ; that if he really wants 
 crackers, he will find them in a toy shop, but if he wants bis- 
 cuits, they have them. If he asks for saleratus, they will 
 declare they never saw any, and want to know what " they " 
 are like ; he wants soda. Looking for a hardware store, he at 
 last learns that he really w^ants an iron-monger's shop. He 
 finds but few stoves, for not one family in a hundred uses 
 them, the open fireplace being used for cooking and for what 
 warming is required. Luckily he has brought one with him, 
 but he finds the task of getting it fitted with pipe and elbows 
 to be no small consideration in a country where tinsmiths do 
 not have any practice in that line of work. He concludes to 
 purchase a tin pail and cup, and pays for a billy-can and a 
 pannikin. Being thirsty, he thinks a glass of lemonade will be 
 acceptable, so stopping at a place where beverages are sold, he 
 asks for what he wants, but receives a bottle of serated water 
 instead. On making himself understood by explanation, he 
 learns that wdiat he requires is lemon-squash. Willing to take 
 his change in candy for the children, he again betrays his 
 iii'norance, for he should ask for lollies. 
 
 But, as before remarked, these peculiarities are not essen- 
 tials, and are soon forgotten in the many pleasant circum- 
 stances that develop in the colonial life. With but few 
 excej)tions, the people in these colonies migrated from the 
 United Kinudom or are the children of those w^ho have come 
 from there. And like others who have voluntarily undertaken 
 to meet the emergencies of life in a new world, they have 
 quite generally developed the strong qualities of manhood and 
 w^omanhood. We rapid Americans are wont to look with a 
 little feeling of disdain upon the slow-going conservatism of 
 the old world. But Australians have, to a great extent, broken 
 away from this, and yet retain their native stability of charac- 
 
:cS^^- ■■*, ,..::^t^^?^:. 
 
 '/^ 
 
 [SG] 
 
 MlRKAY RiVEK. 
 
THE AUSTRALIAX LABORER. 87 
 
 ter. Ill the free air of a new country they readily take on 
 the independence of thou<iht and action that characterizes new 
 settlements. Thus we at once recognize the fact that Aus- 
 tralia is the most American country outside of America. 
 Australians form a very acceptable medium between the con- 
 servative Englishman or Scotchman, and the ardent, pushing 
 American. 
 
 Like other dwellers in warm climates, they have no strong 
 affinity for really hard work, })articularly not beyond the limit 
 of eight hours a day. But they can endure a very large 
 amount of pleasure without grumbling at all. The eight-hour 
 system of labor is firmly established by custom and law ; and 
 the only thing that will ever shake it upon its foundation will 
 be a movement for six hours a day. Forty-eight hours 
 constitutes a weeks' work. This amount is generally performed 
 in five and a half days, so that the last half-day of each week 
 may be given to recreation. Besides the weekly half-holiday, 
 annual holidays come in very plentifully, and it does not 
 take much of a pretext to create a new one. 
 
 The national games are foot-ball in winter and cricket in 
 summer; and the association matches attract great crowds of 
 spectators. Horse-racing, another great attraction, is attended 
 by all the degrading complements usually associated with the 
 vocation. Military drill also receives much attention, as well 
 as athletics of various sorts. Intemperance has a stronghold 
 in the colonies, some of them occupying the unenviable posi- 
 tion of being the leadins: countries in the world in the con- 
 sumption of intoxicating li(|uors. One sad fact that the 
 stranger witnesses with pain is the prevalence of the drinking 
 habit amono- women. Attractive younii' women are almost 
 universally employed as bar-maids ; for while they draw cus- 
 tomers of the opposite sex, they at the same time make it 
 much easier for those of their own sex to gratify their ap- 
 
88 NATURAL AND SOCIAL PECULIARITIES. 
 
 petites, as doubtless many women who purchase liquor of 
 women would not feel free to buy from men. Then, too, it is 
 quite common for grocers to supply the families of their cus- 
 tomers with liquors and wines, thus fostering the demand in 
 the family circle, where, most of all, purity should have a 
 place. The smoking of tobacco is an all-prevailing habit. 
 The more filthy custom of chewing is, however, not nearly so 
 prevalent here as elsewhere. Tea-drinking and meat-eating 
 are prominent features of the ordinary diet, and both these 
 habits bear baneful fruits that are apparent in the state of the 
 general health. But there is no other country on earth where 
 there is less reason for indulging in hurtful practices in the 
 matter of diet, since nature has bountifully provided for the 
 supply of every legitimate want in the large variety of whole- 
 some fruits, grains, and vegetables of the finest quality, which 
 all the year are delivered fresh at the doors of those who 
 will buy. 
 
 But having said all that we know of the wrong side of 
 Australians, very much more remains to be said on the other 
 side. For hospitality and general kindness, for stability of 
 character and love of improvement, they are justly celebrated 
 in the minds of all who know them. Their public charities 
 and sympathies for the suffering are not excelled in any part 
 of the world. Their splendid hospital establishments and 
 systems leave no one without the means of proper care and 
 attention in sickness. Indeed, in no other country is money 
 expended more willingly for unselfish purposes than here. 
 
 The people generall}'^ have respect for the Bible, though 
 religion is with many but a very formal matter, and with 
 others a mere sham. Its principles are nevertheless recognized 
 by the great mass of the people, who entertain a regard for 
 the Bible as the Word of God, even though they do not 
 heed it. 
 
DISCOVERY. 80 
 
 Australia is a great deal larger in reality than it seems on 
 the maps many of us have studied. In size and contour it 
 does not differ very much from what Americans are wont to 
 believe is the greatest country on earth. The United States 
 contains, exclusive of Alaska, 2,970,000 square miles ; Aus- 
 tralia contains just about the same, or three million in round 
 numbers. The country lies between latitudes ten degrees 
 forty-seven minutes and thirty-nine degrees eleven minutes 
 south. From north to south it measures 1950 miles, and from 
 east to west 2500. The Pacific Ocean washes its eastern 
 shores, the Southern Ocean its southeastern and southern 
 shores, and the Indian Ocean borders on the west and north. 
 The meaning of the word " austral " is "pertaining to the 
 south." It was an idea entertained by the ancients that there 
 was a Terra Australis wdiich would one dny be revealed. The 
 geographer Ptolemy in the second century conceived the 
 Indian Ocean to be an inland sea, bounded on the south bv an 
 unknown land. In the year 1606, Torres, commander of a 
 Spanish vessel, sailed through the straits which bear his name, 
 and separate the Australian continent from New Guinea on 
 the north. Subsequently the Dutch sailed along the shores 
 of Australia, and in the middle of that century the celebrated 
 discoverer Tasman visited these regions. The English made 
 their first appearance on the Australian coast in 1688. A 
 century later the great voyager. Captain Cook, opened the 
 country to European settlement. Exploration proceeded 
 slowly, and but little was known, until late years, of the 
 interior of the country. The scarcity of water, combined with 
 the prevalence of scorching winds, makes the investigation of 
 the inland regions an exceedingly difficult and dangerous task. 
 
 The country has been divided into five colonies. Queens- 
 land, located on the northeast, contains 668,000 square miles ; 
 to the south lies New South Wales, with 310,000 square 
 
90 
 
 NATURAL AX I) SOCIAL PECULIARITIES. 
 
 miles; still f\irther southwest lies Victoria, the smallest and 
 most populous of the colonies, with about 88,000 square miles. 
 West of the two first-named lies South Australia, in a wide 
 band that extends across the whole country from north lo 
 south, and has 903.000 square miles ; while still farther to 
 the west lies West Australia, having an area of over a million 
 square miles. A few hundred miles inland from the coast the 
 country is uninhahitod. and apparently uninhabitable, though 
 
 KiN(i Ueukgk'.s Sound, "West Al -i liAi^iA. 
 
 this interior boundary is undefined, and is continually carried 
 nearer to the center of the continent. The legislature of 
 South Australia having offered a reward of ten thousand 
 pounds sterling to the first man who should traverse the con- 
 tinent from north to south, the task was undertaken in 1860 
 by a Mr. Stuart, who accomplished his purpose in 1862, on 
 the third attempt. Others attempting it failed. It was in 
 this attempt that Burke and Wills, the noted explorers, lost 
 their lives. Since that time, however, a line of telegraph has 
 been established upon the path opened by the determined 
 Stuart. 
 
RIVERS. 91 
 
 Beyond the influence of the coast atmosphere, the rain-fall 
 is \ery light and uncertain, and becomes more so the ffirther 
 one recedes. Much of the interior is thought to be practicable 
 for colonization, because it is reported to have a fertile soil, and 
 requires only a reliable and frequent supply of moisture to 
 render it productive and pleasant. The river system of Aus- 
 tralia is A^ery inconsiderable. There are a few inconsequential 
 streams that may be said to pertain to the interior regions, 
 but the most of these are periodical, and their water disappears 
 through absorption and evaporation. Still, quite a number of 
 streams flow through the coast region into the sea. The prin- 
 cipal one is the Murray, which rises within a hundred miles of 
 the coast in Victoria and New South Wales, forming, for most 
 of its course, the boundary between these colonies, and empty- 
 ing into the Southern Ocean, after having flowed a distance of 
 over two thousand miles, and receding at no point farther than 
 two hundred and fifty miles from the sea. Although this 
 river is not navigable by vessels from the ocean, it has an 
 inland system of navigation for nearly its whole length. This 
 river receives three or four tributaries of considerable size. 
 
 The general topography of Australia is very tame and 
 monotonous to the traveler. It has no remarkable mountains. 
 The principal ones are in the Southeast, and do not reach the 
 altitude of perpetual snow, nor do they contain any volcanoes. 
 In the winter season snow falls upon their summits, but disap- 
 pears at the approach of spring. For the most part the coun- 
 try is a level plain, generally covered with a light growth of 
 stunted eucalyptus trees. Of course there are notable excep- 
 tions to this in the case of extensive prairies and dense forests. 
 The vast interior is said to be a basin whose surface is below 
 that of the ocean, but broken in difterent places by ranges of 
 hills and isolated peaks. The climate of Australia furnishes a 
 variety of temperature from the torrid northern and central 
 
92 NATURAL AND SOCIAL PECULIARITIES. 
 
 regions to tlio mildly temperate climate, of Melbourne in the 
 South. The average annual temperature of the latter place is 
 about sixty degrees, with a variation between summer -and 
 winter of less than fifteen degrees each way from the annual 
 mean. Snow never falls in Australia except upon the elevated 
 parts in th^ Southeast, though in Melbourne a few slight frosts 
 occur in the course of the winter. 
 
 There are in Australia but little over three million people. 
 In 1891 the census showed 3,180,000, or about one to the 
 square mile. Of this number New South Wales contained 
 1,134,207 and Victoria about six thousand more ; while West- 
 ern Australia, with a territory that exceeds the area of New 
 England and the Middle States, with Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, 
 Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, the Dakotas, 
 Nebraska, and Kansas all taken together, has a population of 
 about fifty thousand, or a little more than one person to twenty 
 square miles. If any one is longing for elbow room, let him 
 think ftivorably of going to Western Australia. 
 
SYDNEY IN PARTICULAR, 
 
 AVING generalized thus far, let us now look more 
 closely at the cities and scenes in this world. We 
 shall begin our sight-seeing in Sydney, on George 
 street, the principal thoroughfare for business and 
 show. There are some imposing edifices along its course. 
 First we notice the general post-office buikling, with its lofty 
 clock tower. It is a very substantial and beautiful struc- 
 ture of stone, surrounded by a colonnade of polished granite 
 pillars. In this colonnade are located the stamp and deliv- 
 ery windows, and all business is transacted from outside the 
 building, as is the case with all post-offices in this countr3^ 
 Farther along we pass the general market, which we enter on 
 a tour of investigation. What we shall see depends of course 
 upon the season of the year in which we make our visit. 
 But at Avhatever time of the year we happen to be there, we 
 shall find an interesting array of fVuits, flowers, vegetables, 
 farm produce, and poultry, besides birds and pet animals. 
 Victoria, Tasmania, Queensland, and the islands have con- 
 tributed to the supply ; but of all these articles the immediate 
 vicinity furnishes a varied and choice selection. These 
 markets are controlled by the city, and are very popular with 
 the people. 
 
 Still farther along, upon a commanding height of ground, 
 stand, side by side, the Anglican cathedral and the town-hall. 
 The latter building is an attractive one, both inside and out, 
 though its architecture is perhaps a little too ornate. Its 
 
 [<)3] 
 
x 
 
JSA TURD. 1 Y NIGHT. 9 5 
 
 principal feature is the grand organ it contains, wliich is 
 claimed to bo the largest in the world. Passing still fiirther 
 on, we descend a gentle slope to the Hay Market, or, as it is 
 commonly called, Paddy's Market. Here, on Saturday 
 evenings, is to Ije seen one of the most unique sights in the 
 Southern world. George street is then a solid mass of mov- 
 ing, jostling people, and the crowds surge into the market, 
 some on business, but the most on pleasure bent. The long- 
 rows of stalls are filled with wares, whose wide-awake venders 
 vie with each other in trying to make the greatest noise, as if 
 their success in business, if not their lives, depended u})on the 
 strength of their lungs. Here and there are catch-penny games 
 and side-shows, bands of music, merry-go-rounds, swings, and 
 an endless variety of devices for amusement and money- 
 getting. Here also are numerous stump-speakers, political, 
 communistic, infidel, and religious. These too work on the 
 general plan of measuring success by the amount of noise 
 they can make. And, interspersed through the whole, is a 
 rollicking, care-for-nothing crowd, pushing, laughing, and gaz- 
 ing about ; the whole making a noise wdiich is a forcible 
 reminder of pandemonium itself. 
 
 But in tlie more natural features of Sydney and its sur- 
 roundings, we find its principal attractions. The glory of the 
 city is its harbor, which the Sydneyites are not backward in 
 calling the finest in the world. It terminates in the Paramatta 
 River. The old town of that name lies fifteen miles up the 
 stream, but pleasure-steamers can only ajtproach to within 
 a1)0ut three miles of it. This trip is one of the most delight- 
 ful in the colonies. The shores of the harbor are very irreg- 
 ular, and generally bold and rocky. They afiord many 
 magnificent building sites, which are occupied by fine buildings, 
 public and private. As we near Paramatta, the country be- 
 comes flatter, and extensive fruit farms are seen. It would 
 
96 SYDiVEY jy PARTICULAR. 
 
 be diiliciilt to find ,i more lovely landscape than presents itself 
 in this region of fruit and flowers. The orange and lemon 
 groves are particularly luxuriant and prolific. 
 
 If one does not care to go outside the city, he may still see 
 nature in its loveliest forms, adorned and assisted by art. The 
 Botanical Gardens equal in beauty any others in the world. 
 Their situation upon the grassy slopes of the harbor, which is 
 here indented by a bold cape, and there invades the gardens 
 with a deep bay, adds very much to the landscape. Then the 
 sculptor's art has been liberally employed to embellish the walks 
 and nooks of the place with statuary. Under the influence of 
 the genial climate and skillful care, trees, flowers, and plants 
 of every clime thrive with vigor. The nicely kept walks and 
 living green of the lawn, with bright and many-hued flowers 
 and birds of still brighter plumage, combine to form a scene 
 never to be forgotten. One thing that adds to the comfort 
 and attractiveness of the place is the absence of w^arnings to 
 keef> off the grass. The parks in Australia are made and 
 kept for the public, wdio have full liberty to use them within 
 the bounds of propriety. Public notices calling upon people 
 to assist in caring for their own property supply the place of 
 all those impertinent notice-boards which stare the visitor in 
 the face in so many of our parks, telling him that " this means 
 you," though he may be walking in the middle of the road, 
 with his hands behind him. Bevies of children roll and romp 
 on the grass, helping to fill up an already beautiful picture 
 with the idea of comfort and healthful exercise. 
 
 Adjoining the garden is a large open park, or common, 
 called the Domain. Here assemble, on Sunday afternoon and 
 evening, multitudes of people. They w^alk about or listen to 
 various speakers wdio, stationed at short intervals over the 
 green, are discoursing upon their favorite themes. Here the 
 gospel is preached ; there a temperance lecture is given ; yon- 
 
SYDNEY SIGHTS. 97 
 
 der a politician harangues, or a socialist rants against govern- 
 ment and restraint. Upon one edge of the Domain stands the 
 city Art Gallery. The building, being yet unfinished, presents 
 a rough exterior, but upon entering, the visitor is surprised to 
 find himself in a gallery of large extent and superior merit. 
 This gallery is open to the public upon the payment of an 
 entrance fee of sixpence, and double that >sum upon ^Ion- 
 days, by which arrangement the wealthy people have more 
 exclusive privileges upon that day. 
 
 A trip around the lower harbor in one of the many pleas- 
 ure-boats that run for that purpose is a delightfnl way to 
 spend half a day. The beautiful tillage of Manly is situated 
 near the entrance of the harbor on a narrow neck of land 
 which divides the bay from the ocean, and it enjoys the dis- 
 tinction of having two fine beaches — one in smooth, protected 
 waters, and the other open to the broad Pacific, where the 
 magnificent breakers roll in continuallv. A visit to the South 
 Heads, where we are permitted to inspect the defensive forti- 
 fications and the celebrated light-house, forms a memorable 
 part of the trip. Against the foot of the clifls, which are 
 nearly two hundred feet in perpendicular height, the waves 
 are continually dashing themselves to spray. It w^as here 
 that, in 1857, the steamer " Dunbar," mistaking the opening 
 into the harbor, was utterly wrecked, and went to the bottom 
 with her two hundred passengers and crew, of whom but one 
 w^as spared to tell the tale. 
 
 The trip around the harbor reveals many nooks of quiet 
 beauty, some of which lie nestled close by armaments of war. 
 The view of the Botanical Gardens from the water is enchant- 
 ing, and that of the neighboring suburb is almost equally so, 
 until we are told that its name is Woolloomooloo. Shark's 
 Point and Shark's Island are names that cause a shudder, 
 in spite of their beauty. 
 
 7 
 
OS SYDNEY JX PARTICULAR. 
 
 Having ttikeii this trip, we next want to visit Sydney's 
 Zoological Park, which, however, is not equal to some others ; 
 we also take ii tram to Coogee Bay, and perhaps to some other 
 neighboring seaside resorts, and then our sight-seeing in Syd- 
 ney is nearly done. But we must not take our leave without 
 noticing the tram system, which is different from that of any 
 other city. The principal system consists of cars propelled by 
 steam. Nearly all the cars are two stories high. The 
 upper deck has a roof, and the appearance of these tall, spec- 
 tral-looking conveyances strikes the stranger as something 
 very unique. It will be well to state that "tram " is the \t'0rd 
 which in British countries takes the place of ''street-car" in 
 America. These cars in Sydney converge into Pitt street, 
 which runs parallel with George street, thus rendering them 
 convenient of access, and making each portion of the city 
 easily accessible to any other portion. The fares are graded; 
 that is, there are short sections for which a penny or two- 
 pence is charged, and fares are collected according to the dis- 
 tance to be covered. The collectors cannot always observe 
 people who get on the train, therefore they frequently pass 
 along the foot-boards calling out, "Any more fares?" leaving 
 it for those who have boarded the train unobserved to pay 
 voluntarily. A friend of the writer's who had just come into 
 town, and was taking quite a long ride, did not understand 
 this ; and after paj'ing the fxre for the whole distance, inter- 
 preted each succeeding call as an invitation for more money, 
 and accordingly paid as many fares for the whole trip as there 
 were calls. At the end of the journey the stranger was nat- 
 urally disgusted at the character of Sydney street-cars and 
 tlie cost of urban travel. But this disgust was transferred to 
 the proper party when the truth was made known. 
 
THE SOUTHERN METROPOLIS. 
 
 =ELBOURNE, the rival city of Sydney, is situated 
 near the southern extremity of the continent, in the 
 colony of Victoria. A distance of five hundred and 
 twelve miles by rail separates them, and tlio journey 
 by sea is somewhat longer. Those who are not in too 
 great haste, and have no particular horror of the sea, generally 
 choose one of the comfortable steamers which ply daily be- 
 tween the two cities. The railway journey for the greater 
 part of the distance is covered in the night, and the scenery 
 passed by daylight is of a rather monotonous character, al- 
 though some fine farming country is passed, and some attrac- 
 tive landscape views are afforded ; that presented on page SG 
 being one of them. 
 
 Those who take the journey by sea ■are liable to experience 
 the roughest phase of nautical life, for there are but few por- 
 tions of the earth that are beaten by wilder weaves than the 
 southern and southeastern shores of Australia. Frequent 
 wrecks occur on those rocky shores. But contrary to all our 
 apprehensions, the voyage proved to be one of the most pleas- 
 ant we had ever taken. We sailed out of the harbor of 
 Sydney about noon, on the staunch but slow steamer " Elinga- 
 mite," and in fifty hours were sailing over the placid waters of 
 Port Philip, into the harbor of Melbourne. Scarcely a ripple 
 had disturbed the surface of the ocean from first to last. 
 
 Melbourne is a younger city than its New South Wales 
 competitor. It received its name in the year 1837, and is there- 
 
 [09] 
 
'A 
 
 o 
 
 
 ■A 
 !2; 
 
 o 
 o 
 
SKETCH OF MELBOURNE. IQl 
 
 fore almost the twin of Chicago. In that year it contained 
 about eight thousand inhabitants. It was named after Lord 
 Melbourne, who was at that time British premier. According 
 to tlie census of 1891, Melbourne and its suburbs contain 
 491,387 inhabitants. These suburbs, although separate munici- 
 cipalities, are for all other purposes united with the main city. 
 Melbourne and Sydney, standing upon a nearly equal footing, 
 vie with each other for commercial supremacy. The latter 
 port is the termination of a number of deep-sea steamship 
 lines, and being nearer to the islands, naturally takes more 
 than its share of the business with Oceania. But in the busi- 
 ness of local and coast lines, Melbourne takes the lead. The 
 two colonies stand about equal as to imports, the amount in 
 1890 beino' over one hundred million dollars in each. In 
 exports, New South Wales took the lead of Victoria by about 
 thirty million dollars in the same year. 
 
 Melbourne differs from Sydney in many respects — in its 
 general plan, its topography, and its spirit. We have already 
 said that Australia is the most American country outside of 
 America, and with the same degree of truth it may be said 
 that Melbourne is the most American city of Australia. It 
 has more ''push" and progress in its policy.. Melbourne is 
 situated at the head of Port Philip, called Hobson's Bay, about 
 fifty miles from the ocean. Port Philip is an irregular oval in 
 shape, and about forty miles in diameter. It has but a narrow 
 entrance called the Heads, out of and into which the tide 
 rushes with a strong current, forming what is called the 
 "rips." These are the dread of passengers liable to seasick- 
 ness, for here they are pretty sure to get a shaking up. On 
 the cliffs stands the village of Queenscliflf, a fivorite seaside 
 resort. Here are fortifications and a fine liglithouse, as at the 
 Sydney harbor. Numerous wrecks have occurred at and in 
 the vicinity of the entrance to Port Philip. Treacherous cur- 
 
102 THE SOUTHERX METROPOLIS. 
 
 rents abound on this rock-bound shore. There are several 
 light-houses ;ih)n<; the coast, placed at short intervals; 3'et it 
 sometimes happens that captains unacquainted with those 
 waters mistake the lights, and are dashed upon rocks while 
 supposing that they are entering the harbor. 
 
 It is a sad sight to look upon the broken remains of half a 
 dozen vessels which have thus met their fate within a few years. 
 Perhaps a ship comes from New York with a valuable cargo. 
 For three or four months it has battled successfully against 
 wind and storm. By faithfulness and vigilance the voyage 
 has been carried toward a happy conclusion. At last the ex- 
 pected haven is in sight. The sailors are glad in view of rest 
 on shore, and the officers feel a sense of relief that their care 
 will now for a time be lightened, and' they are anticipating the 
 pleasure of reporting to the owners a prosperous and profitable 
 trip. But there come a few moments of carelessness. No 
 pilot is at hand, and a mistake is made in calculation, or per- 
 haps drink beclouds the mind, or an unexpected wind carries 
 the craft into a fatal current ; and in a few minutes all is lost. 
 The seamen are struggling for life in the breakers, and the 
 gallant ship is groaning and crashing upon the rocks. Many 
 such stories are told, for it has happened over and over 
 
 again. 
 
 The thought cannot be repressed that this case illustrates 
 the fate of many lives. There are those who successfully 
 meet the difficulties of a long life. For years they contend 
 > with obstacles, and fortune seems to smile upon them. But 
 at last some untoward circumstance turns what appears to be 
 certain victory into terrible and everlasting defeat. Some 
 fatal mistake is made, some peculiar and unexpected tempta- 
 tion arises ; and in a moment all is lost. The trouble in such 
 cases almost always comes from some flaw in the character, or 
 from some cherished sin, which has been carried along through 
 
WRECKED AT THE LAST. 103 
 
 life, but has up to that time never produced any apparently 
 serious consequences. 
 
 The fact is, sin is a dangerous thing to trifle with. In the 
 end it produces death. We may tamper with it for a while, 
 but it will bear its baneful fruit at last. The saddest of all 
 sad sifjhts in this sad w^orld is a wreck at the end of a lono; 
 voyage. To come wdthin reach of the goal, and then be lost, 
 is the saddest of losses. To have hope raised by degrees to 
 the very point of realization, and then dashed to disappoint- 
 ment, is more terrible than never to have hoped. In the voy- 
 age of life there are dangers and trials, but we often say that 
 "all is well that ends well." It is the end of life that solves 
 the problem of success or failure. But how can we anticipate 
 a happy ending unless we pursue the straight course toward 
 the desired haven? and how shall we reach that haven except 
 we continue in the right path ? Let the youth consider these 
 things, for the critical moment is approaching when the issues 
 of life will be tested. There is but one way of safety, and 
 that is to follow the leadership of the great captain, Jesus 
 Christ. Cherish no fjital sin ; permit no careless hours ; keep 
 the mind and the heart clear, and the conscience clean. Ask 
 God for help, trust implicitly your Pilot and Captain, then the 
 end will be well. 
 
 The city of Melbourne was originally located upon the 
 banks of the Yarra River, six or scA'en miles from the bay by 
 water, but less than half that distance in a straight course. 
 The land lies quite level, with only sufficient inclination for 
 drainage, and hardly that. But this circumstance was favor- 
 able for the laying out of wide, >straight, and regular streets. 
 The opportunity was so w^ell improved by those who did the 
 w^ork that, for beauty of plan, Melbourne has but few equals 
 in the world. Ample provision was made for parks and gar- 
 dens, some of which lie very near the heart of the city. 
 
[104] 
 
 CoLLI^'s Street, Melbourne. 
 
MELBOFRNE. 105 
 
 Money and skill have been lavished upon tliem, and their rest- 
 ful attractions speak the praises of the city. To step out of 
 the hurry and dust of the busy street, through the gates of a 
 park, and walk at once into cool solitudes and dark shades 
 where dwell lovely flowers and birds, is a privilege which the 
 denizens of Melbourne can ever enjoy. The principal streets 
 are nicely paved with wooden blocks. They are kept scrupu- 
 lously clean, being swept by machinery early each morning, 
 and constantly tended by boys through the day. 
 
 The traveler is at once impressed with the admii'able tram 
 system of Melbourne, which is one of the best in the world. 
 Formerly passenger traffic was by omnibus and by train. The 
 latter feature still prevails to a great extent. An excellent 
 suburban train service is maintained between the central city 
 and the different urban quarters and all outlying districts. 
 About the year 1885, privileges of building cable tram lines 
 were granted to a company, and from time to time additions 
 have been made to their charter, till now they have over forty 
 miles of well-equipped lines in operation. The straight and 
 level streets render this means of conveyance very practicable, 
 enabling the system to work smoothly, comfortably, and with 
 but few breaks. 
 
 In natural scenery Melbourne has but little to compare 
 with Sydney. The Yarra, a pleasant stream above the ship- 
 ping point, flows alongside the Botanical Gardens. These gar- 
 dens are extensive and well-kept, and are remarkable for their 
 beauty ; but one's admiration of them is considerably tempered 
 after a visit to those in Sydney. However, in the Zoological 
 Gardens, which lie within easy reach, we find a superiority 
 over those of the sister city. Melbourne's mean temperature 
 is, as above stated, about sixty degrees, and such a climate is 
 favorable for the care of a very large class of animals which 
 live in the open air throughout the year. 
 
100 THE SOUTHERN METROPOLIS. 
 
 Ill (he very center of the city, upon the banks of the river, 
 is an open reserve of perhaps one hundred and sixty or two 
 hundred acres, -devoted to recreation grounds. Here, upon 
 Saturday afternoons, crowds of people gather to participate in 
 or witness games and sports. The ground is parceled out to 
 ditferent organizations by whom it is held under the govern- 
 ment. Ill addition to these breathing-places, there are parks 
 and o'ardens too numerous to mention. Prominent anions: 
 them are the Fitzrov, the Treasur^% the Carlton Gardens, and 
 Royal Park, in the latter of which the Zoological Gardens are 
 situated. 
 
 In the central portion of the city is the famous Library 
 and Museum. The former is one of the world's celebrated 
 collection of books ; and the latter embraces a fine art gallery 
 and an industrial museum. The National Museum, in connec- 
 tion with the State University, is a very fine collection of objects 
 of natural iiistory from every part of the earth. In viewing 
 the public buildings of Melbourne, a stranger feels some sur- 
 prise that in this remote corner of the earth such costly and 
 substantial edifices are to be found. The town-hall and Fed- 
 eral Coffee Palace, on Collins street ; St. Paul's Cathedral, the 
 Exposition Building, Parliament House, as well as many of 
 the V banks and business blocks, are noble specimens of an 
 architecture which would grace any city on earth. 
 
SIGHTS AND SCENES IN AUSTRALIA. 
 
 lOR those who desire a pleasant day's outing in Mel- 
 bourne there are several trips which hold out pleasur- 
 able inducements. One is an excursion by one of the 
 many pleasure-boats of Port Philip to Queenscliff or 
 Sorrento. Going to the latter place, a steam tram takes us 
 across a narrow neck of land to the Back Beach, — where old 
 ocean in his quiet mood laves the rocks and sands, or in his 
 fury dashes his thundering breakers upon them. Bathing in 
 the harbor is a favorite pastime, but on account of the presence 
 of sharks it must be done within an inclosure. During my 
 stay in the city a circumstance happened that illustrates the 
 necessity of this protection, for in this case a ravenous monster 
 broke through the slender fence and attacked some children 
 who were bathing. The water was too shallow for the shark 
 to operate to advantage, and the mother, being near, snatched 
 her child from its jaws. The outcry brought a crowd of men, 
 who in a short time stretched this hyena of the deep upon 
 the shore. 
 
 If one does not care to go to the ocean, he may take one 
 of the two lines of steamers that run to the neighboring city 
 of Geelong, which contains over tw'enty thousand inhabitants, 
 and is situated upon Corio Bay, a branch of Port Philip. Our 
 fancy takes us to the Dandenong Mountains. The train leaves 
 us near the mouth of Fern-tree Gully, which we proceed to 
 ascend and explore. We see some fine specimens of the 
 eucalyptus timber, of which there are many species, and which 
 
 [107] 
 
108 
 
 STGIITS AXD SCEXES JX AUSTRALIA. 
 
 under lavor;i])lo circuiiisttiuces grows tall and straight. Upon 
 these niounlains Ihoro arc trees that almost rival the celebrated 
 trees of Calilbrnia. There are stumps twelve feet in diameter, 
 and laHen trees whose length measures fully three hundred 
 feet. This is a government reservation, under ollicial protec- 
 
 Ferns. 
 
 tlon, so after passing through the gate we are under ban not 
 to piek flowers or injure plants or trees. Down the narrow 
 gully pours a stream of clear water, pure and cool. The 
 ascent becomes more steep as we proceed, and the sides of 
 the cafion contract as the altitude increases. Majestic fern 
 trees intercept the sunshine and almost exclude the daylight. 
 These trees are unique in the vegetable world. The only life 
 they possess is centered at the crown, or top, of the trunk. 
 
FERN- TREE GULLY. IQO 
 
 Every season a new circle of fei'n fronds is sent out from this 
 point. Their long arms extend lioin three to ten feet, forming 
 an umbrella top. In autumn tlicy die, and from their dry 
 roots the new crop is sent out in spring; thus season after 
 season the height and size of the trunk is increased, but it 
 contains no life below the point where the branches are sent 
 out. Accordingly, in order to transplant the trees it is but 
 necessary to cut off the trunk at the desired height and set it 
 in the ground like a j^ost. Some of these trees grow to a 
 height of fifty or sixty feet. Their shade is dense and very 
 cool in combination with the damp atmosphere in Avhicli tliey 
 grow. 
 
 Rocks, boulders, and fallen trees either impede the progress 
 or serve as bridues and walks. Thus we climb, listenino" to 
 and watching the beautiful cascades over which the noisy 
 brook tumbles down the steep decline, until our strength, over- 
 stimulated by the excitement, begins to show signs of giving 
 out. But it seems impossible to give up, for each step ap- 
 pears to reveal more striking loveliness and grandeur. There- 
 fore, with repeated resting-spells, we clind) on — by this time 
 progress means climbing, for we are now ascending the mount- 
 ain-side. At last we are compelled to leave the course of the 
 brook, if M'e proceed ; and striking directly u]) the steep, we 
 soon emerge into a scene of singular beauty. We are three 
 thousand feet above the bay ; before us lies the city ; over 
 twenty miles away is Port Philip with its shipping ; and in the 
 dim distance lies old ocean in peaceful repose, dotted here and 
 there with a vessel. Many miles of country stretch out in 
 all directions, and every thought of weariness is dispelled, 
 while we hear from all lips, ''0, I wouldn't have missed this 
 for anything !" 
 
 After satisfying our eyes, we return, and are glad to find 
 that our weiaht is in our favor in the descent. The remains 
 
'A 
 
 « 
 
 O 
 
 cq 
 
 W 
 
 O 
 H 
 ►J 
 ►J 
 O 
 O 
 
 Q 
 >^ 
 
 O 
 
THE KANGAROO. HI 
 
 of a lunch are quickly disposed of, and we wonder why we did 
 not In'ino; more. After a few aames hy the vouno'sters on the 
 green banks of the stream, we are more than ready for the 
 train which is to take ns home. 
 
 Those wishing more than one day's reveling with nature, 
 generally take an outfit and go farther into the mountains, 
 where scenes of weird beauty and grandeur await them. Not 
 many miles inland the kangaroo may be found in his native 
 wildness. Leaving my tent early one morning, I had the pleas- 
 ure of starting out a very large " old man," as the males are 
 called. To witness his flight was indeed a pleasure greater 
 than to have shot the innocent creature. These animals are 
 of a light gray color. Their forelegs and claws are little more 
 than rudimental, and are used principally in digging roots, and 
 for jDrehensile purposes in obtaining food What these mem- 
 bers lack in size has been added to the hind legs and tail. 
 Upon these they sit nearly erect ; and when they wish to 
 change their locality, they do it by leaping without touching 
 the ground with their forelegs. The leaps they make are 
 something snrprising. The one of which I speak cleared the 
 underbrush at every bound, leaping ten feet into the air, and 
 covering, I should judge, twenty-five feet at a bound, though 
 it is possible that my excited imagination slightly warped my 
 facnlty of measuring. A fence presented no obstacle. But he 
 was too soon out of sioht. 
 
 The emu, a bird resembling the ostrich, but smaller, used 
 to be very common in Australia, but is disappearing from the 
 range of civilization. The Australian bear, an animal a little 
 larger than a raccoon, and partaking somewhat of the character- 
 istics of the bear, though entirely harmless, abounds in the 
 wooded districts ; as does the opossum, which is of a larger 
 variety than those of our Southern States. There are a few 
 other small animals, some of them, as the kangaroos, belonging 
 
112 
 
 SIGHTS AXD SCENES IN AUSTRALIA. 
 
 to the marsupials, but none of them are Avortliy of much 
 notice. The wild dog, or dingo, has given much trouble to 
 sheep-raisers, but these are fast disappearing. 
 
 Kangakoos. 
 
 But the real game of Australia is the rabbit. This animal 
 is not a native of the country, but was brought from England 
 by some gentleman who wished to introduce them for the 
 
BIRDS AND ANIMALS. 
 
 113 
 
 chase. It has turned out to be more of a chase than was antici- 
 pated. Bunny took to the country with all his heart, and 
 soon showed the people what rabbits can do by way of rapid 
 
 breeding when they have a fair 
 chance. 
 
 Though destroyed by every 
 possible device, the rabbits still 
 hold their own. Under the 
 circumstances, no one seems to 
 have any compunctions about 
 killing the innocent creatures. 
 One sroins; a few miles into the 
 country, to some lonel}^ spot, 
 has no trouble in shootinii: in a 
 AusTKALiAx Beak. g^Qi-t time all that he cares to 
 
 take home. They are hawked on the streets of the cities 
 every day in the year, and often sold for sixpence a pair. 
 "Wild rabbits; wild rabbits!" mingled with "Fish, oh; 
 all alive, oh ! " shouted and 
 screamed by the strong voices 
 of men and women, rings in the 
 streets from early morning till 
 noon. To many people, the 
 terror of Australia is its snakes. 
 These are not large nor very 
 numerous, but they are almost, 
 if not quite, all venomous, and 
 their bite is fiital. But no one 
 need keep away from the coun- 
 try on their account, for after ^'^^^• 
 a residence of over four years in the country, I came away 
 without having seen one. They are there however, as 
 some of my friends who saw and killed them can testify. 
 
ll I SJdTITS A XI) SCENES TX ATSTRALIA. 
 
 Tlie liiids ()(■ tliis regio^i are not so plentiful as in the 
 Noi'thciii licuiisphere, but they are generally of more marked 
 chaiaeteristies. The most numerous class is the magpie, 
 which abounds everywhere. As is quite well known, it be- 
 longs to the crow family, and resembles its black cousins in 
 many respects. In color, the magpie is black and white. 
 They may l)c taught to speak a limited vocabulary, though 
 their forte is in whistlinii' and stealinii". 
 
 There are several varieties of parrots in Australia. 
 The most common are the little rosella parrots, commonly 
 called Joey Inrds, because their favorite note seems to sound 
 like, ''Pretty Joey." Beautiful white cockatoos fly in flocks 
 through the country. Not every cockatoo can learn to talk, 
 but some of them become very voluble and exceedingly inter- 
 esting in the exercise of their conversational talent. But 
 while they are beautiful in plumage and versatile in wit, they 
 have such an outlandish scream that it is almost nerve-rending 
 to people of delicate sensibilities. If they see a dog or any- 
 thing else that displeases them, or if they wish to attract 
 attention, or often without any apparent provocation, they 
 \n\\\ utter a series of their unearthly screeches. By this pecul- 
 iarity all their other virtues and attractions are so f;ir over- 
 balanced that many people decline their company altogether. 
 This is very much the way with people. Many of us have 
 some very fine points, — pretty features, quick w4t, nice 
 clothes, attractive talents, — but upon closer acquaintance we 
 betray our natural disposition in some disagreeable squawk. 
 Everything goes well as long as things are pleasant, but the 
 time comes when something reveals the temper, and then w^e 
 give vent to a blast of bitterness that astonishes our admirers. 
 Good breeding, education, or any accomplishment wdiatever, 
 is but a mechanical, parrot-like acquirement unless the heart 
 be sw^eetened by the grace and presencQ of Jesus Christ. 
 
lURDS AXD AmMALS. 
 
 115 
 
 There is another odd species among the Australian birds. 
 It is known by the snggestive name of the " hi iigliing jackass." 
 He is not quite so hirge as the magpie, and is of a phun gray 
 color, with short wing-and-tail feathers, giving him a rough- 
 and-ready appearance. Ilis strong, sharp hill is well sup- 
 ported by a stout-looking neck and head crowned with a saucy 
 top-knot. He looks at his human visitors with an independent, 
 vicious look, but says nothing. At liberty, upon a perch in a 
 lofty gum-tree, he soon divulges the secret of his n;ime by 
 settinsf up a vigorous lauo-hine; that starts witli a sort of brav, 
 then runs into a guffaw, and ends with a hearty laugh that 
 brings responsive laughter and applause from his liearers who 
 listen for the first time to his only song. On account of tlieir 
 wholesale destruction of snakes, these birds enjoy special pro- 
 tection from the government, which makes it a crime ])unis]i- 
 able by a heavy fine to destroy them. 
 
 Laughing Jackass. 
 
r. 
 
 J 
 
 -J 
 
 J 
 
 •A 
 
A BRIEF HISTORY. 
 
 HE settlement of Australia dates practically from the 
 discovery of gold in the year 1851. In both Victoria 
 and in New South Wales the precious metal was 
 found in the same year, in such remarkable quanti- 
 ties and so easily accessible that there was a great rush to the 
 new Eldorado, equal to that which poured into California two 
 or three years earlier. The announcement that gold had been 
 discovered in the Plenty Ranges, near Melbourne, was first 
 made in the columns of a local paper, early in June of 1851. 
 In the same month the precious metal was found in other 
 localities also. The news spread like wildfire ; and hundreds 
 were soon eagerly searching for gold in all settled districts. 
 Almost simultaneously magnificent prospects were opened in 
 many places. It seemed that nature had kindly made her 
 richest deposits near the surfiice, and that but little more was 
 required than to go and pick up untold riches. At the richest 
 diggings men congregated by thousands. The cities were 
 deserted, as were the rural districts and the cattle stations. 
 Even the public service was left to take care of itself, and 
 male and female domestics joined the rushing throngs. The 
 position of the governor of the colonies is said to have been 
 exceedingly embarrassing, for he saw himself deserted, the 
 public offices vacant, and the officials fleeing. Strange to sny, 
 many of the most sanguine hopes were more than realized. 
 Six months after the discovery, ten tons of gold had already 
 been obtained from the mines of Victoria. 
 
 [117] 
 
118 A BRIEF HISTORY. 
 
 When this news reached Europe and America, a stream of 
 people set in for Australia that for the time nearly swamped 
 the new colonies. As vessels reached their destination, the}^ 
 were deserted not only hy i)assengers but by sailors as well ; 
 for the charms of the rollin<;- waves were not sufficiently strong 
 to keep the men on board when a fortune was in sight for 
 picking it up. For ten years the yield of gold was enormous. 
 In the second year of the excitement not less than sixty-two 
 million dollars worth of it was found in Victoria. Many of 
 the great prizes were dug in the early days. Here are some 
 of them : One nugget weighed 1620 ounces, another 2217, 
 and still another weiahino; 2280 ounces was found, worth 
 
 GO " 
 
 about $45,000. At Golden Point, in Ballarat, men made from 
 fifteen hundred to two thousand dollars a dav. Governor 
 Latrobe tells us that he saw eight pounds' weight of gold 
 washed from two dishes of dirt. But not all were so success- 
 ful ; for many less fortunate ones not only failed to procure 
 wealth, but lost the little they had. 
 
 Soon the criminal element appeared, coming principally 
 from Tasmania, then called Van Dieman's Land, where was a 
 large colony of deported convicts, some of whom managed to 
 escape and cross Bass' Straits. These became desperadoes, 
 robbing gold trains, and in one instance extending their depre- 
 dations even to the warship " Nelson," which was lying in the 
 harbor, from which they succeeded in getting gold dust to the 
 value of $120,000; Gradually the surface diggings have been 
 exhausted, so that at the present time gold mining is mostly 
 carried on in deep mines of rock, with the aid of expensive 
 machinery. But with the exploration of West Australia new 
 discoveries of gold are rivaling those of the early days. 
 
 The value of the gold mined in New South Wales from 
 1851 to 1890, was over 37,600,000 pounds sterling, or $188,- 
 
RICHES VS. PROSPERITY. Hg 
 
 (MM). (MM); while in Victoria, during the same period, there was 
 obtained 57,000,000 ounces, valued at 227,357,430 pounds 
 sterlinii", or over eleven hundred million dollars. 
 
 Immense fortunes have thus been amassed, but many more 
 have been squandered ; and where this money has made one 
 man happy and useful to his fellow-men, it has doubtless 
 ruined a score. Its ultimate eftects upon the country have 
 not been altogether good. It has tended to the formation of 
 false ideas of the value of money as well as to a lavish expen- 
 diture in non-productive buildings and pul)lic works. It has 
 caused the development of the agricultural resources to be 
 greatly neglected. Other industries essential to the permanent 
 prosperity of the country have been slighted, leaving the 
 colonies to stand upon an uncertain basis. When the mines 
 no longer yielded their fabulous revenues, the extravagant ex- 
 penditure of public money was continued by borrowing money 
 in the London market; and for ^^ears it seemed as though the 
 credit of the colonies was beyond question or limit. 
 
 Under these circumstances, two colossal cities were built 
 whi( h tower above the country in enormous proportions when 
 compared with the ver}^ sparsely settled and poorly developed 
 country upon which they nnist. in some measure at least, de- 
 pend for support. In 1890, one third of the population of 
 Victoria was in Melbourne ; and in New South Wales and 
 Sydney we find almost similar disproportions. Up to this 
 point, for some years an almost universal spirit of speculation 
 prevailed. The price of land situated in or near the cities w^as 
 run up to fabulous figures. Syndicates and private parties 
 combined to " boom " real estate. Then, in the height of this 
 fictitious prosperity, several unfortunate labor strikes occurred. 
 This had the effect to disturb the minds of Enolish creditors, 
 when it was discovered that the debt of Victoria amounted to 
 
a 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 
A CRASH. 121 
 
 over forty-three and a half million pounds sterling, or almost 
 two hundred dollars to ever}^ man, woman, and child in the 
 colony, while that of New South Wales was even greater. 
 
 True, a good share of it was invested in railways, but these 
 could hardly pay expenses ; consequently the Lombard-street 
 money-lenders made up their minds that it was time to draw 
 up their piirse strings. The next consequence was that the 
 banks refused further credits, and called in their over-drafts. 
 Government works were stopped, and a terrible crash in finan- 
 cial matters at once took place. Men were turned out of em- 
 ployment, business was paralyzed, and for several years the 
 prospect looked very dark and gloomy. All this was the re- 
 sult of false ideas of prosperity, of building castles without a 
 good foundation. The crash that came, involved not only the 
 poor, but those who were supposed to be wealthy. In such a 
 time of temptation many attempted to recover their fortunes 
 by disreputable measures. A craze of embezzlement attended 
 the general smash-up ; and even trusted clerks, who had dab- 
 bled in races and land speculations, learned to steal their em- 
 ployers' money, hoping thus to retrieve their fortunes. The 
 hand of justice soon rested upon many such victims, landing 
 men of high position and great respectability behind the bars. 
 
 It is perhaps useless to enlarge upon this disagreeable 
 picture; it may have its uses in teaching us tbe vanity of 
 earthly things, and the importance of a f^iithful and careful use 
 of what we have and what we use in prosperous times. No 
 very perceptible serious impression has, however, been made 
 upon the average Australian by the things he has suffered ; 
 for his love of pleasure and his determination to enjoy himself 
 seem to be as strong as ever. 
 
 Of all the days in the Melbourne calendar, Cup-dny is the 
 most memorable. This time of festivity also enjoys a broader 
 name as Cup-week, for the sports embraced in the period 
 
122 '^ BRIEF HISTORY. 
 
 cover a week. The woi'd " cup " refers to a trophy which is 
 offered as the nominal prize for a horse-race which forms the 
 central one of several similar games celehrated during the 
 week. Cup-day is usually the first Tuesday in Noveml)er. 
 It is early summer then. Not only tlie city, but the whole 
 country a])parently, is abandoned to the sole idea of enjoying 
 the sport. The races are run o\'er a beautifully rounded 
 course in Flemington, one of the sul)url)s of Melbourne. They 
 are often witnessed by one hundred thousand people. Some- 
 times as much as seventy-five thousand dollars is added as a 
 private purse to the Melbourne cup, which is bestowed upon 
 the winning horse. But even this great sum is but a modicnm 
 of the money involved, for every man and woman who ever 
 ena;aa;es in bettinu', ventures some money on the Melbourne 
 cup. In a few minutes the race is over, the rpiestion is de- 
 cided ; some are made wealthy, others are ruined l)y the re- 
 sult. In attendance upon the grand event are the governors of 
 the different colonies, together with their staffs and families; 
 it is also graced by the attendance of the officers of the army 
 and navy ; and many small fortunes are lavished in dress and 
 outfits for the occasion. It is a carnival of sin, pride, and 
 folly which far outranks, in proportion to the country, the 
 celebrated Derby races of England. 
 
 Next to this season of sport comes Christmas-tide. Christ- 
 mas itself is quite religiously observed, no work or business 
 being performed on the day, but the sobriety of that day is 
 expected to offset a great deal of folly on the next. . The next 
 day after Christmas is called Boxing-day, on account of the 
 universal custom of uiving Christmas-boxes. However, there 
 is very seldom jiny box about it ; it more frequently means a 
 small gift of money to those wdio bring your mail, sw^eep your 
 sidewalk, carry aw^ay your garbage, or serve you in any 
 capacity ; while upon your part you may expect that your 
 
HOLIDAYS. 123 
 
 grocer, milkman, baker, etc., will turn the comidiniriit by giv- 
 ing yon some little recognition of your patronage; and these 
 little mementoes are called Chi'istmas-boxes. The custom is 
 an English one, and although it may be losing its hold upon 
 colonial people, its name has been inseparably connected with 
 the day mentioned. It has to the Australian a greater signifi- 
 cation than giving or receiving paltry presents. It means fun 
 and frolic to his heart's content. Coming, as it does, in mid- 
 summer, the entertainments of the day do not have to be 
 confined indoors. During the week intervening between 
 Christmas and New Year's, but little business is done. It 
 takes about ten days to celebrate Christmas "properly." 
 
 In autumn comes Easter. Lent is religiously observed by 
 a great many people, at least after a manner; Good Friday is 
 a melancholy day on which the people generally refrain from 
 work, even if they have to Avork on Sunday to make up for 
 the loss. Easter Sunda}' is celebrated in the usual cheerful 
 manner ; but on Easter Monday all the religiousness of Lent 
 and Good Friday is let out. as through a safety valve. 
 
 In speaking thus of the pleasure-loving instincts of the peo- 
 ple, it should not be understood that the remarks have any- 
 thing more than a general application. The people of Australia 
 in general have great respect for the Bible, and liian}^ of 
 them are persons of deep piety and conscientious devotion. 
 About twenty-five per cent of the people are Roman Catholics; 
 another fourth of them are Episcopalians ; while Presbyterians 
 and Methodists make np another fourth ; and in the remaining 
 fourth nearly every known sect and denomination is repre- 
 sented, with a mixture of those who acknowledge neither God 
 nor the Bible. 
 
[124] 
 
 Council Chambek. 
 
OTHER COLONIES. 
 
 'USTRALIA'S third city of importance is Adelaide, 
 the capital of South Australia, five hundred miles 
 northwest from Melbourne. The city is not reached 
 directly by navigable water, though Port Adelaide, 
 on St. Vincent Gulf, is only a few miles distant, and is closely 
 connected by railway and good roads. Adelaide is connected 
 with Melbourne by a good line of railway. The only express 
 train covers most of the distance in the ni<iht. Leavino; Mel- 
 bourne at five p. m., we pass Geelong and Ballarat, two pros- 
 perous cities, before nightfall. After passing through a long 
 stretch of fiirming and mining country we cross the Ninet}^- 
 mile Desert, and reach the Murray River at breakfiist time. 
 From this point the scenery is very fine. In crossing the 
 range of hills that surround Adelaide, no less than seven tun- 
 nels are passed through. When we have passed the last one, 
 and are upon the brow of the range, a beautiful panorama lies 
 before us, embracing Adelaide, with several surrounding towns, 
 and the broad expanse of the gulf. 
 
 Adelaide has a population of over one hundred and thirty 
 thousand, and is regarded by many as the most beautiful of all 
 the Australian capitals. Its business portion is compactly and 
 regularly laid out, with wide and straight streets crossing each 
 other at right angles Extending all around this portion of 
 the city is a broad strip of park lands, through which it is 
 necessary to pass in order to reach the suburbs, where most of 
 
 [125] 
 

 O 
 if 
 
ADELAIDE. 127 
 
 the dwellings are Incited. This enntinTunis p;nk is avoU kept, 
 and embraces both the Zoological and the Botanical gardens. 
 Both tliese gardens are very jnstly celebrated for ilieir com- 
 pleteness and rare beaut}'. If the comparative size of the cit- 
 ies be taken into consideration, greater credit for these places 
 of resort must be given to Adelaide than to either jNIelbonrne 
 or Sydney. Surrounding Adelaide is an amphitheater of hills, 
 which furnish a cool retreat in the heated season. The cit}^ 
 has the reputation of being very warm ; and although I have 
 never experienced its summer heat, I ha\e no dilliculty in 
 crediting the report fi'oni what we know of its s[iring climate. 
 But the heat being dry it is (juite endurable ; the climate, on the 
 whole, is also very beneficial to those affected with wxvakness of 
 the lungs. At Port Adelaide the incoming European mails are 
 dischariied from the steamers, and forwarded to Melbourne 
 and Sydney l>y train ; here the outgoing mails are also taken 
 on board, thus makin"' a savinii; of several da\'s' time. 
 
 South Australia stretches away to the noi'tli across the 
 whole continent. There are several towns of less importance 
 than Adelaide, and as far in the interior as a white man can 
 live, are found sheep-stations and immense wheat-fields, the 
 products of which are brought to the sea-board by long trains 
 of camels. A circumstance related by a friend as occurring in 
 one of these trains illustrates the vindictive character of the 
 camel, the shi[) of the desert. One of the dri\('rs had occa- 
 sion, either justly or unjustly (very likely the latter), to boat 
 one of these laden beasts severelv. That niuht the camel 
 broke his tether, and stealthily approaching his driver's tent, 
 threw himself upon, and ti-ampled it into the dust, with the 
 evident purpose of killing his persecutor. His plan was frus- 
 trated though, for it happened that the man, preferring to sleep 
 under a tree that niuht, had removed from the tent with his 
 blanket, and thus escaped death. 
 
128 OTHER COLOXIES. 
 
 Queensland and West xVustralia are as yet but sparsely 
 populated. The former is a land of great and varied resources. 
 Its mining interests are great, but secondary in importance to 
 those of grazing. Immense flocks of sheep and herds of cattle 
 graze on its fertile interior plains, while nearer the sea-shore 
 tropical fruits and sugar-cane are profitably grown. Its cli- 
 mate is tr^'ing to ])(M»])le from the temperate regions, but is 
 hiahlv recommended bv most of those who become accustomed 
 to it. Brisbane, its cai)ital, has a population of about forty- 
 eiaht thousand, and is a beautiful city. Several towns of con- 
 siderable importance lie along the eastern coast. 
 
 In the southwest corner of Australia, in the colony of West 
 
 . . . " . 
 
 Australia, is the town of Albany, which is the first point 
 
 reached by European boats, and the last one left by those out- 
 ward bound. Perth, the capital city, lies farther north of the 
 western coast, and had, in 1891, a population of nearly ten 
 thousand. Freemantle had seven thousand. Since that time 
 new mining interests have been started, and there has been 
 quite an influx of floating inhabitants. 
 
 South of the Australian continent lies the little island of 
 Tasmania, named after its discoA'erer, though formerly called 
 VanDieman's Land, in honor of General Anthony VanDieman, 
 o'overnor of Batavia, bv Avhoni Abel Jansz Tasman was com- 
 missioned to explore the shores of the great Southern world, 
 Tasmania was sia'hted l)y tliis brave Dutch sailor in November, 
 1642. The natives Avere greatly alarmed by the ajtparition of 
 two such monstrous birds of prey as his ships seemed to be. 
 Later on this same voyage, New Zealand was broui>ht to the 
 notice of the world ; but it was over a century before any 
 further attempt Avas made by white men to cultivate the ac- 
 quaintance of the ncAv-found islands; and even to the close of 
 the eighteenth century it Avas not known that Tasmania Avas 
 not a part of the mainland. In the year 1798 Surgeon Bass 
 
ACROSS THE STRAITS. 
 
 129 
 
 discovered some reasons for believing that Tasmania was an 
 island; therefore, sailing in the ship "Norfolk" around to the 
 north, his opinion was confirmed, and the straits which sepa- 
 rate the island from the continent received his name. 
 
 A trip to Tasmania may be Aery comfortably made from 
 
 Botanical Gardens, Adelaide. 
 
 Melbourne, provided the weather be kind, which is not always 
 the case. The distance to Launceston, the northern metropo- 
 lis of Tasmania, is about one hundred and fifty miles. The 
 first forty are in the smooth waters of Port Phillip, and 
 the last twenty on the placid and picturesque river Tamar. 
 The intervening ninety miles may be called a '^'' swell coun- 
 
 9 
 
I;;() OTHER COLONIES. 
 
 try." Tlic tides and the currents which prevail, and the 
 winds wliicli frequently blow between the bodies of land, keep 
 the waters aiiitated the most of the time. 80 when the Mel- 
 bournite becomes bilious, or generally out of sorts with himself 
 and the world at Lirge, he may get rid of the past and start 
 anew with his stomach in a good thorough wa}' by a night's 
 ride across the straits. But when he is across, he is haunted 
 by the idea that on his way homeward he must repeat the 
 performance, which he is apt to regard as more than his stom- 
 ach reall}" requires. However, one night's sickness is not 
 dangerous ; and like the little boy of our own memories, he 
 *•' takes his medicine like a man." But a moderate amount of 
 gastric gymnastics is unquestionably good for a torpid diges- 
 tion ; and if the exercise be not too prolonged, one feels bet- 
 ter after having gone through the disagreeable performance. 
 Sometimes this therapeutic programme is omitted on account 
 of the extraordinary stillness of the night ; in which case the 
 passenger wakes in the morning after a refreshing sleep, walks 
 out on deck to view^ with delight the headlands of Tasmania, 
 and thanks his luck that he has been let off so easily, notwith- 
 standinii' the needed renovation of his stomach. 
 
 The most beautiful and interesting of all sights at sea is 
 land, and particularly so if it be the land of destination. We 
 enter the broad mouth of the Tamar through a long line of 
 buovs and sailinii' signals, fur the channel is devious and 
 changeable, and has caused many a captain to mistake his 
 bearings to his sorrow. A boat containing customs officers is 
 soon put out from the little village near the light-house at the 
 Heads, and the next thing in order is to have the luggage 
 " passed." While this is being done, ^ve are sailing up the 
 Tamar Biver, the banks of which have now come nearer to- 
 gether, while the valley has widened out. At a distance of 
 three or four miles we can see Launceston, situated upon the 
 
n\.)/.L\7.i, 131 
 
 slopes of the valley, and presenting a fine view. It is a town 
 of seventeen thousand, nicely located and containing some fine 
 buildings. Its distance from the ocean and the dependence of 
 deep-sea vessels npon the tide render it very difiicult of access. 
 But it has fine farming lands in its vicinity, and enjoys a de- 
 sirable climate. 
 
 Tasmania contains about twenty-six thousand square miles 
 of territorv, and is one hundred and fifty miles loni>" from north 
 to south. Its inhabitants number one hundred and forty-six 
 thousand in round figures. Hobart, the principal and oldest 
 city, is situated in the southern part, on a fine harbor which 
 forms the mouth of the river Derwent. A narrow-sruaoe rail- 
 way connects the two principal cities, and in its express-train 
 the trip may be comfortably and quickly made. Two or three 
 ranges of hills are crossed in the journey, revealing some scen- 
 ery of rare beauty. Tasmania is the Switzerland of Australia. 
 Its scenery, with its beautiful summer climate, makes it a 
 favorite resort durinir the hot season. 
 
 Upon one occasion an old lady entered the car (or carriage, 
 to speak after the British style) as the train was about to 
 leave Launceston for Ilobart. She seemed rather bewildered, 
 scarcely knowing where to take her seat. In these narrow 
 cars the seats run around the sides and the ends of the com- 
 partment ; so, seeing her dilemma, a passenger offered her a 
 place, which she accepted with thanks, and remarked, as she 
 looked about, that this was the first time that she was ever on 
 a train. She was apparently seventy-five years of age, and to 
 the query where she lived, she replied that she lived right 
 there in Launceston. When we reached the little station of 
 Leonardsville, about three miles out, she further remarked 
 that she now saw that place for the first time, though she had 
 often heard of it. She then said that she came from Enaland 
 Avhen eight years of age, but had never been out of the town 
 
HO BART. 133 
 
 since she landed, nearly threescore and ten years before. 
 When the train was under full motion, her astonishment at the 
 rapidity with which she was traveling was amusing. It was 
 strange to find a Mrs. Rip Van Winkle who had overslept the 
 old gentleman by forty years, with her eyes wide open, and in 
 the midst of a city at that. 
 
 Hobart is a quaint town of twenty-five thousand, quiet and 
 conservative in its ways, and more English than any of the 
 other capitals of 'these colonies. For situation it is the joy of 
 the country. In its front lies the placid harbor, with deep 
 clear waters, where the largest ships can float. In its rear 
 stands Mount Wellington, three thousand feet in height, a 
 beautiful cone, topped in winter with a cap of snow. From 
 Hobart as a center many delightful trips may be made. One 
 of them is by steamer up the Derwent, where very picturesque 
 scenery abounds. Another is by steamer down the harbor to 
 Port Arthur. Others are by carriage to the Huon River and 
 various places of attractive beauty. Tasmanian fruit and cli- 
 mate are the principal attractions of the colony, and they are 
 of very fine quality. Mining of gold and of tin is carried on 
 extensively, particuLnly of the latter metal. Wool is also 
 exported. 
 
 The early settlement of Tasmania is associated Avith the con- 
 vict colonies, wdiich by order of the British government were 
 taken there as overflows from Port Jackson and Sydney. A 
 few criminals were sent there in 1802, as a vanguard of a mul- 
 titude that was to follow. They first settled at a point now 
 called 'Risdon, four miles above Hobart. The settling of free 
 people upon the island was also encouraged, but these endured 
 many hardships from time to time through struggles with the 
 fierce criminal element, as well as with the black aboriginals. 
 In time the practice of transporting criminals ceased, and the 
 poor natives disappeared. In 1835, the remnant of the latter 
 
134 
 
 O THER ( r> L OAVES. 
 
 were gathered and [lut on Flinders Islands ; everything pos- 
 sible was done for their comfort, but in vain, and in LSTG 
 Truganini, a, woman, the last of her race, i)assed away. She 
 outlived by a few years " King Billy." Good portraits of both 
 have been preserved. For six years, beginning in 1837, the 
 colony had the honor of having for its governor Sir John 
 Franklin, the celebrated Arctic explorer. 
 
 No one who visits Tasmania will ever forget the many 
 pleasant impressions which he is sure to receive. The grand 
 scenery, genial climate, but above all, the cordial kindness of 
 its people are not soon forgotten. Tasmanians seem to have 
 obtained the idea that there are better motives for livino; than 
 selfishness. My friends in that country never tired in their 
 endeavors to minister to the comfort and pleasure of their very 
 orateful visitor. 
 
 Truganim, Last of .the Tasmanians. 
 
A GENERAL VIEW. 
 
 7^ 
 
 TIE aboriainals of Australia, like those of Tasmania, 
 
 and indeed of every other country of modern discov- 
 ery, are vanishing. They are for the most part gath- 
 ered on reservations under government protection 
 and care. Their color is black, though they are distinct from the 
 African races. In a general sense they are perhaps rightfully 
 regarded as being very much degraded; yet in some respects 
 they show a remarkable degree of shrewdness and sagacity. 
 The men of these tribes are employed by the detective service 
 as "black-trackers," because they can discover and follow a 
 trail where a white man would never succeed. The efforts to 
 educate and Christianize them have been crowned with but a 
 small degree of success. They do not seem, however, to be 
 any more averse to receiving evil than other savaije races. 
 They have made some efforts to repel the encroachment of 
 the white men into their country, and in doing so have mani- 
 fested ingenious cruelty. But their weapons and methods 
 have been utterly futile before the arms and power of the 
 Europeans. They have very justly l)ecome fiimous for their 
 use of the boomerang. This implement of war is a thin, 
 slightly crooked blade of hard wood, which is thrown in a man- 
 ner wholly inexplicable, ])ut ))y wliich it is made to do its in- 
 tended work, and then return to tlie thrower. Those who are 
 expert in the art can hurl it forty yards and back again with an 
 accuracy that is surprising. Their other weapons consist of 
 the " waddy," or war club, and a wooden spear. For habita- 
 
 [135] 
 

NATIVES. 137 
 
 tions they have only broad pieces of bark set up against a pole. 
 In their native state they subsist on the most disgusting ob- 
 jects, such as snakes and other reptiles, worms and beetles, or 
 apparently anything upon which they can feed. Opossums 
 and kangaroos, as well as fish and edible roots are also eaten, 
 but the former articles are by no means objected to, espe- 
 cially because they are most easily obtained. 
 
 One fact that encourages and almost compels them to this 
 degrading diet is that Australia produces indigenously hardly 
 any fruits or nuts that are edible. This seems not a little 
 strange when we consider its proximity to the islands which 
 are covered with cocoa, banana, and other nutritious food prod- 
 ucts, planted and grown by nature herself. So f^ir as I know, 
 about the only exception to this statement is the so-called wild 
 cherry, which grows on a species of ti-tree. It is about half 
 as large as the ordinary red currant. First on the stem comes 
 the little stone, then back of that, and almost distinct from it, 
 is a little mass of rather pleasant-tasting pulp. Thus it will be 
 seen that the wretched natives have a hard chance for life, 
 and we do not wonder that their diet should include things 
 against which our appetites revolt. 
 
 But although nature does not supply the plants, she is 
 ready to support that which men may plant ; so now fruits of 
 all kinds may be obtained in the markets of the large cities. 
 Victoria Market, in the heart of Melbourne, is one of the 
 sights. It is open two mornings of each week. It covers two 
 blocks, and its buildings consist mostly of long rows of sheds 
 far enough apart to allow horses and carts to be backed up to 
 a low platform on either side. Produce wagons begin to ar- 
 rive the previous evening, for some come long distances. All 
 night they are coming in, and at an early hour the sale begins 
 at a given signal. By six o'clock the streets are a surging 
 mass of humanity. 
 
138 -1 GENERAL VIEW. 
 
 Winter is, in some respects, the most interesting of the 
 seasons. It is then that cattle enjoy a rich pasture. The fre- 
 quent rains and cool weather encourage the growth of the 
 grass, and the paddocks are covered with living green. The 
 more hardy vegetahles flourish then, as well as the different 
 varieties of flowers. The calla lily, so carefully reared and 
 watched in our Northern cities as a house-plant, grows rank 
 and blooms by the thousand in the hedges. Trellises of bright- 
 hued ceraniums growing over fences or walls, are to be seen 
 on every hand. 
 
 The government of the Australian colonies is vested in the 
 people. In making their own laws, they are restricted only 
 by the requirement that no enactment shall be inimical to the 
 constitution or the interests of Great Britain. The only rep- 
 resentative of the home o'overnment in the colonies is the gov- 
 ernor, whose official capacity is supposed to be executive. 
 The laws must receive his signature ; but in a practical way it 
 would be difficult to define his functions, unless it be that it is 
 essential to have a figure-head to represent royality. The gov- 
 ernors are the appointees of the crown, though their salaries 
 are paid by the colonies. The colonial parliaments are elected 
 by the people, and consist of two houses, — the Legislative 
 Council, or upper house, corresponding to the Senate of the 
 United States ; and the Legislative Assembly, or lower house. 
 The governor appoints the cabinet, or delegates the power to 
 appoint to the political leader of the prevailing party, who 
 almost universally appoints himself premier, and thereby be- 
 comes the real head of the government. 
 
 In Australia the authority of the government includes the 
 control of the police, the telegraph, the railways, and the 
 public schools. Many a one who in the LTnited States has 
 longed for a government railway system, has been effectually 
 cured by a short experience in some country where the rail- 
 
CHURCH AND STATE. 130 
 
 ways are managed by the government. When run by the stiff 
 machinery of the hiw, the railway is a cumbersome, red-tape, 
 lifeless affair without competition or ambition. Independent 
 and utterly heartless, it behaves toward all its patrons in an 
 if-you-don't-like-it-o'o-afoot sort of way that is sometimes ex- 
 ceedingly trying to the nerves and patience of people who are 
 accustomed to having every wish gratified by obliging railway 
 companies that are anxious to secure their patronage. There 
 are over ten thousand miles of railway in Australia. 
 
 Generally speaking, there has been an effort to separate 
 church and state in the colonial governments, but at the pres- 
 ent time there is a tendency on the part of quite a large body 
 of church people to unite them in a measure at least, — not by 
 way of establishing some particular church, but by establishing 
 certain principles upon which most of the churches can unite 
 in asking the state to enforce. In other words, they have 
 imbibed the prevailing spirit that the church should broaden 
 its sphere of operations, and instead of giving so much atten- 
 tion to personal religion and the salvation of individuals, should 
 seek to Christianize the nation, and thus bring in the reign of 
 the gospel. 
 
 To this end they are seeking to place public morals under 
 the espionage of the government, and by civil power to build 
 up in earthly kingdoms the kingdom of Christ. One of the 
 steps by which this is to be brought about is the introduction 
 of the Bible and religious training into public schools. An- 
 other is by a rigid and religious observance of Sunday. The 
 position which candidates for Parliament occupy on these ques- 
 tions is becoming a leading condition of their acceptability with 
 those voters who favor this view ; and vigorous efforts are be- 
 ing made by religious societies to secure such laws as will give 
 them the powder they desire. In behalf of the cause of Sunday 
 observance, it has been discovered that there is a statute, 
 
[140] 
 
 Launceston, 
 
CHURCH AXD STATE. 141 
 
 enacted in the time of Charles II, which strictly enforces this 
 religious ordinance, and it has recently been employed in the 
 absence of more modern enactments. 
 
 It requires no very great degree of astuteness to perceive 
 in this movement the same kind of zeal and the same tendency 
 to religious persecution that characterized the course of the 
 church in the Dark Ages, when men were burned at the stake 
 or put on the rack because they did not conform to the prevail- 
 ing ideas on religious questions. Underlying the whole under- 
 taking is the great mistake that men can be compelled to 
 become good ; and that if moral suasion is not sufficient to pro- 
 duce the desired change in their lives, then the law should be 
 invoked to compel them to do as the majority think they ought 
 to do. It is not, of course, in our province to discuss the ques- 
 tion of religious liberty, though in every part of the civilized 
 world we meet it at the present time. Russia is wholly com- 
 mitted to the policy of religious domination by the state, but 
 Christendom abominates her course. It is therefore sad to see 
 such countries as Australia and the United States stepping 
 rapidly into the same paths of darkness. The truth is, that if 
 Sunday observance rested upon the far more important support 
 of unquestionable scriptural precept or example, there would 
 be no effort nor any call for an effort of this kind. It is error 
 only that needs to be bolstered up by such measures. 
 
 The ties of consanguinity and mutual interest are so strong 
 between these colonies that the stranger is astonished to find 
 that they are separated from each other by customs barriers ; 
 but such is the case. Passing from Sydney to Melbourne, or 
 from Melbourne to Adelaide, or to Tasmania, or vice versa, 
 trunks and traveling-bags must be overhauled, very much to 
 the disgust of the innocent traveler. 
 
 Some very annoying instances of customs interference came 
 to our notice. In one case a Methodist minister, ver}^ poor of 
 
142 
 
 A GENERAL VIEW. 
 
 course, was transfeiTed by his conference from Victoria to South 
 Australia, and was innocently passing o\er the line with most 
 of his effects in a one-horse wagon, not dreaming that the law 
 would take cognizance of such an insignificant moA'e as his. 
 13ut suddenly he found himself in the hands of the officers, 
 who declared his outfit contraband. He was glad to get off' by 
 leaving his wagon in the hands of the law ; and to have the 
 privilege of riding his forlorn old horse to his new appointment. 
 The whole arrangement is a vexatious hindrance to traveling 
 as well as to business of all kinds ; for \vhat one colony gains 
 over another by way of duties it pays out with the other hand 
 in charges on other articles. The system is illustrative of the 
 protective policy thoroughly carried out. So long as there 
 were some colonies adhering to free-trade, it was all very well 
 for the protective ones, but since all have joined in taxing each 
 other, it amounts to a silly farce. 
 
 KixG Billy. 
 
LEAVING AUSTRALIA. 
 
 ATURiVLLY we are reluctant to take leave of those 
 places which dwell in our memories Avith the most 
 pleasant associations. But reluctant or not, the time 
 has come for us to turn our attention to other scenes. 
 We bade good-by to the kindest of friends in Melbourne, leav- 
 ing by express-train for iidehiide, to which port the ship had 
 already proceeded. It was spring-time, and the bright-colored 
 flowers which in places lined the railway made permanent the 
 pleasant impressions already received of the country. After a 
 comfortable night's ride, w^e crossed the Murray Ri^er in the 
 early morning, from wdiich point the line ascends the range of 
 hills lying between the river and the waters near which Ade- 
 laide is situated, as previously described. When the western 
 summit is reached, a scene of beauty is presented from the 
 sides of Mount Lofty. 
 
 After a day and a night spent w^ith friends in Adelaide, the 
 steam-lighter took us and our belongings close to the black 
 sides of the huge P. and 0. steamer '* Massilia," and in a few 
 hours we were out upon the '* vasty deep." The afternoon being 
 pleasant, our hopes were buoyant that Neptune would kindly 
 give us a gentle start, at least until we had time to get our 
 sea-legs. But we hoped in vain, for during the next four days 
 and nights old ocean showed us what it could do on the Aus- 
 tralian Bight. But the ship was as staunch and steady as it 
 was possible for a floating thing to be under such circum- 
 stances. We came to anchor in the port of Albany during the 
 
 [143] 
 
f " 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 J2 
 
 
 
ON THE INDIAN OCEAN. 14 5 
 
 night, and left it a few honrs later. The next morning, at 
 daylight, a few headlands were all that remained to onr sight 
 of Anstnilia. 
 
 The next thing vvas to cultivate an acquaintance with our 
 fellow-passengers. This is not usually a difficult task. No 
 formal introductions are necessary ; generally a very small in- 
 cident, perhaps a little civility, will sufficiently open the way. 
 Among those on board were several who were on their way to 
 India, having spent their vacation in the colonies. It was par- 
 ticularly gratifying to meet these, as India was the country to 
 which we were now bound. 
 
 It w^as ten days before we saw land again, except a little 
 dot of an island not on our maps, where a lone Scotchman lives. 
 Our course was northwest, through the midst of the Indian 
 Ocean. During this time we scarcely saw the sun, and yet 
 the weather was not ver}^ stormy. We occasionally met ves- 
 sels going toward Australia, and one day sailed past the Ger- 
 man steamer " Ilohenzollern," going in the same direction. 
 Outstripping another vessel is one of the pleasantest experi- 
 ences to selfish human nature that ocean travel furnishes. It 
 always seems to be gratifying to find some one who is not so 
 well off as ourselves. 
 
 The time on board was spent in the usual way, — reading, 
 writing, visiting, walking the deck, eating and sleeping. A 
 fine sea-water bath in the morning, and a cup of coffee Avith bis- 
 cuits for those who wish them, are the first thing on the day's 
 programme; then a brisk walk on the deck; breakfjist at eight; 
 reading, quoit-pitching, or perhaps a nap, with sundry chats, 
 fill the time till the lunch at one o'clock At noon the result 
 of the daily reckoning, wdiich gives the distance run in the pre- 
 vious twenty-four hours, is posted in the main gangway, and is 
 an event of interest. At five or six o'clock dinner is served, 
 
 and tea in the evening, with supper still hiter for those who 
 10 
 
14(1 LEAVING AUSTRALIA. 
 
 wish. Liiilit limclies in the forenoan ami afternoon fill up the 
 gaps, so tliat eating becomes the cliief end of life on shipboard. 
 We (lid not adhere to the popular [)]ogramme, however, in 
 every instance. Tea and coffee have no part in the dietary of 
 those who have the best regard for health ; and eating continu- 
 ously cannot be regarded any more favorably. Besides, those 
 who desire to make a good use of time on shipboard may do so, 
 when not sick, if they provide themselves with good books and 
 writing materials. 
 
 By a certain and, unfortunately, quite a large class of men- 
 passensrers, most of the time is consumed in smokinii", drinkino;, 
 and oamblino-. Professional gamblers traversin2r the sea for 
 the pur})ose of fleecing unwary travelers, easily gain the confi- 
 dence of their victims by means of the close companionship 
 into which people are thrown on shipboard. Many an unso- 
 phisticated youth, robbed of every cent he has, is landed u})on 
 an unknown shore to ])efiin life in a forlorn condition ; and 
 he often does it with some desperate deed. Besides games of 
 cards, other methods of gambling are resorted to in order to 
 vary the amusement (?). Betting on the distance that the 
 vessel will run during the next twenty-four hours, on the time 
 of her arrival, or in fact on any slight pretext, is indulged in 
 for this most wretched way of disposing of money. 
 
 Speaking ol' squandering money, we find that this is as 
 easily done upon the ocean as in any other place. Here is a 
 small army of stewards and waiters upon whom the passengers 
 are dependent for food and attention. They receive but small 
 pay from their employers, with the understanding that they 
 will accept "tips" or presents from the passengers. As a 
 matter of course, their principal interest in the passenger is 
 proportionate to the sum which they receive or expect to re- 
 ceive from him. It accordingly stands the traveler in hand to 
 place himself on good terms with his table and bedroom stew- 
 
TIPPING. 117 
 
 ards, and with as many others as he finds liimself dependent 
 upon. The sum required by each one is not great. Gener- 
 all3% for a trip across the Athmtic it is from fifty cents in tlie 
 second class, to three or four dollars in the first saloon, to each 
 steward who serves you. The same table and state-room stew- 
 ard attends the passenger during the voyage. 
 
 While it is true that the tipping system is almost an intol- 
 erable bore by sea and by land, still a person who does not 
 recognize it is considered ver}"" mean ; and when we consider 
 the poor men who work so hard for oar comfort, and have to 
 depend largely upon our generosity for their support, we are 
 apt to violate our sense of right by giving the expected amount 
 rather than to withhold it. Not only at sea is this practice 
 prevalent, but everywhere except in America ; and it is l)e- 
 coming customary here. When traveling, one is expected to 
 keep up a continual stream of giving and ti})})ing. In many 
 places on the Continent no wages are paid to waiters in hotels 
 and restaurants ; and in Sweden, we Avere told, girls actually 
 pay for the privilege of serving in fashionable hotels. But in 
 India, of all places on earth, the hacJcsheesh must flow in a per- 
 petual stream. Bat being already near to tljat country, we 
 shall have a chance to learn these things by experience; let 
 us therefore not anticipate. 
 
CEYLON. 
 
 HEN land finally came in sight, it was greeted with 
 unusual pleasure ; for in these days of rapid tran- 
 sit, it is not very usual, even on long voyages, to 
 be out of sight of terra firma for ten days. The 
 first land we saw was the south end of the island of Ceylon. 
 The sun having been invisible for some days, the officers were 
 unable to get satisfactory reckonings. The captain claimed 
 that we had been under the influence of a strong current that 
 had diverted the ship slightly, and so, instead of making the 
 southwest corner of the island, we were nearer the southeast- 
 ern extremity; consequently, for the most of the day we sailed 
 along the coast toward the harbor of Colombo. It proved to 
 be a pleasant opportunity, for with the aid of glasses we 
 watched the changing landscape of that land where, according 
 to the old hymn, "every prospect pleases." Luxuriant groves 
 of cocoa palms grew to the waters' edge, native villages and 
 tea plantations were here and there ; while frequently the 
 white towers of a Buddhist shrine, the high dome of a temple, 
 or the minarets of a Mohammedan mosque gave us our first 
 glimpses of tangible heathenism. Just at nightfall we rounded 
 the light-house which stands at the outer extremity of the ex- 
 tensive breakwater that forms the harbor of Colombo, one of 
 the most important ports of the equatorial world. Slowly our 
 massive ship made its way into the haven among the other 
 shipping ; and when we had nearly lost our motion, the order 
 to " let go the starboard anchor," and then to " let go the port 
 
 • [ 148 J 
 
COLOMBO. 149 
 
 anchor," caused a clanking of chains, a rush of capstans, two 
 distinct plunges in the water; and our vessel was at rest. 
 
 Here we are in a panopticon and pandemonium of new and 
 strange sights and sounds ; and what shall we look at or lis.ten 
 to first ? Well, the first thing to be done is to find out if the 
 steamer from London for Calcutta has arrived, or has passed, 
 as she generally does just before the arrival of the Australian 
 boat. To our pleasant surprise, it is ascertained that neither 
 has happened ; for after starting from London, the boat had a 
 collision in the Channel, and was obliged to |)ut back. Conse- 
 quently she is two days late, and we shall have the most of 
 that time in Colombo. It is too late to think of ffoing ashore 
 to-night, and the steamer will not begin coaling before morning, 
 so we are pleased with the prospect of a quiet night in the still 
 water of the harbor. 
 
 But what are those dark-skinned, nearly naked bipeds that 
 come scrambling up the ship's side like monkeys, and swarm 
 the deck with loud vociferations? They are real, genuine, live 
 heathen ! Thus at least we are apt to conclude ; but, after all, 
 we have as yet no very good ground for so deciding, except it 
 be the scarcity of their wardrobe. It is true they have not 
 more than a yard of cloth upon them, and some of them but a 
 fraction of that amount. But it serves the purpose, and sup- 
 plies the demands of modesty so far as their tastes require ; 
 and, strange to relate, within a few minutes we find that our 
 revulsion has fled, and we have accepted the situation, so that 
 henceforth there is no squeamishness upon our part toward them 
 on that score. As regards their actions, they are really no 
 worse than those of a crowd of bus and hack drivers are in our 
 Christianized (?) countr}'. They are simply trying to induce 
 the passengers who are going ashore to patronize their boats, 
 that they may earn a few cents (yes, cents in Ceylon) with 
 which to buy food for their families. It is true they nag and 
 
[150] 
 
 Point de Galle. 
 
THE HARBOR. 151 
 
 quarrel and pull and coax till your patience is exhausted, even 
 
 after you have signified that you are not going ashore, and 
 
 would not be taken there for anything. The sailors soon weary 
 
 of their outcry, and seek to drive them ofi" with kicks and 
 
 cuffs ; but it is slow work, though an occasional splash in the 
 
 water proves that a few, more demonstrative than discreet, 
 
 have been put overboard head foremost in a shorter time than 
 
 * 
 it took them to scramble up. Fruit and trinkets are also 
 
 rushed aboard for the purpose of traffic, and sales are urged 
 
 with a persistency that is surprising as well as disagreeable. 
 
 After this short introduction, we seek rest in the quiet 
 state-room, where none molest, to plan and dream for the mor- 
 row. The morning comes full soon enough, and in these 
 tropical regions that is the most favorable part of the day. 
 Whatever failings may be truthfully attribnted to the people 
 of these countries, they should never be accused of wasting 
 their time in bed in the morning. We were on deck betimes, 
 but the natives were there before us, and the time till break- 
 fast was spent in making their acquaintance, and taking in the 
 surroundings. 
 
 The harbor naturally deserves our first attention. This is 
 of comparatively recent establishment, though the city itself is 
 ancient. Up to about 1880, Point de Galle, situated on the 
 coast about fifty miles south of Colombo, was the principal 
 port, but it stands deserted now. Its harbor was incommo- 
 dious, besides being quite dangerous of entrance. In 1875 the 
 government undertook the construction of the most extensive 
 breakwater in the world. There is no natural harbor at Co- 
 lombo, though an indenture of the coast furnishes a partial 
 protection from the north ; but by fiir the most violent winds 
 in these regions are the southwest monsoons, which blow with 
 regularity and sometimes with great force through several 
 months of the summer. It was necessary to give the shipping 
 
152 CEYLON. 
 
 a protection from the tremendous breakers which these winds 
 roll up in their course across the Indian Ocean. To do this a 
 stone wall was built out into the sea for a distance of one mile, 
 at a cost of $3,5U0,000. It is composed of massive blocks of 
 concrete, so firmly laid that they resist unshaken the mighty 
 attacks of wind and waves. So that now, except in the case 
 of west or northwest winds, the harbor is safe. 
 
 Colombo is noted chiefly for being a port of call and a coal- 
 ing station. Situated at the very center of the commerce of 
 the Orient, it is a crossing for several important lines of steam- 
 ships. It is visited frequently and regularly by nearly all the 
 vessels doino- business in those waters. On the morning after 
 our arrival the harbor presented a most interesting sight. 
 There were six P. and 0. steamships at anchor, besides nu- 
 merous others of various lines. P. and 0. is a common 
 designation used for the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship 
 Company, of London. There was a ship from Bombay bound 
 to China, another from London to Calcutta, ours from Australia 
 to London, a fourth from Calcutta to London, still another go- 
 ing from China to Bombay, and the sixth from China to Lon- 
 don. It was an unusual thing for them to meet in this way, 
 but slight accidents had detained three of them, and the two 
 from China were running in the place of the " Bokhara," 
 which had recently been lost in a typhoon in the China Sea, 
 with one hundred and seventy souls on board. We here ob- 
 tained our first news of this sad catastrophe, which was made 
 sadder to us because so many of our officers and crew had 
 friends on the ill-fated ship. 
 
 North of the city is a rocky promontory, which in centu- 
 ries past served as a landmark to the Dutch and Portuguese 
 voyagers. Facing the water stand some massive buildings, 
 giving the place a fine appearance from the decks. In the dim 
 
GOING ASHORE. 153 
 
 distance are lofty mountain tops, while on every hand luxuri- 
 ant verdure abounds. 
 
 But we are in haste to get ashore, though our interest in 
 this matter is not half so great as that of the crowd of native 
 boatmen, who from our first appearance on deck have kept up 
 a continuous wrangle as to who should have a chance to do the 
 rowing. Notwithstanding this had been settled more than 
 two hours before, it did not relieve the pressure, for the man 
 to whom the job was promised was in constant anxiety lest 
 some one should underbid him, and carry oft' the prize. I was 
 not to be corrupted though, and repeatedly assured him that I 
 should stand bv mv baroain. 
 
 Every harbor has a paddle boat or rowing craft peculiar 
 to itself. I do not know what they call those in Colombo, but 
 they seem to be founded on a dug-out log. with sides built up 
 so that when a passenger sits on a seat he has ample room to 
 danole his feet. But it is so narrow that but one can sit on a 
 
 c 
 
 seat ; and if he were very large, he would hang over the sides. 
 The ends of this craft are sharp, and under the force of two 
 or three paddles it makes rapid time. Such a narrow, top- 
 heavy vessel would quickly turn over but for an out-rigger in 
 the form of a small log attached to long arms, which runs 
 through the water alongside. This out-rigger is sufficiently 
 heavy to prevent the boat from capsizing, and is sharpened at 
 either end so that it runs easily. These boats are also used 
 for fishing purposes, and we saw them fifteen miles or more out 
 at sea on billows of considerable mairnitude. On the ocean 
 they are driven by a sail. They carry a large sail, and run 
 very close to the wdnd ; and when it is desirable to give 
 them more wind than they could carry without capsizing, men 
 crawl out along the arms and stand upon the out-rigger, while 
 their craft flies before the breeze, and their little support is 
 
O 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 X! 
 
A PER SOX OF DISTINCTION. . 155 
 
 dashed through the waves, which completely envelop the dar- 
 ing fisherman. The speed these boats make under these cir- 
 cumstances is surprising, while the indifference of the natives 
 to the apparent danger goes to show that they are as much at 
 home in the water as on the land. Indeed, this is the case 
 with all the natives who liva on islands in warm climates ; 
 water is not to them an unnatural element. 
 
 Upon landing, I was met at the customs sheds by a crowd 
 of natives, every one of whom manifested the greatest interest 
 in my welfare. Several, more bold than the rest, greeted me 
 as an old friend, in such lanoruaoe as thev could command, 
 stating that they knew me when I was there before, and re- 
 membered me well ! As I marched up the street, I might 
 have been taken for an individual of no small distinction, so 
 great was the throng that pressed around me. It was amus- 
 ing at first, but soon became tiresome. The only way to get 
 rid of the parasites was to ignore them entirely, though some 
 of them had to be told to '* be off" in a tone that betokened no 
 weakness of purpose if they failed to do so. Occasionally an 
 appeal to a policeman was necessary. The older beggars soon 
 gave it up, and went to look for another arrival, but several 
 naked youngsters ran along before me, rubbing their stomachs 
 and crying, " Me hungry, me no food, no fadder, no mudder ; 
 me hungry.'' 
 
 The streets in the modern part of the town are broad and 
 shady. Colombo contains one hundred and twenty-five thou- 
 sand inhabitants. The island has a population of three million 
 and an area of twenty-five thousand square miles. The south- 
 ern end of Ceylon is but six degrees north of the equator, so 
 that there is but little variation in the climate, which generally 
 maintains an annual average temperature of eighty degrees, or 
 sometimes a little higher. The rainfall is abundant, especially 
 in the monsoon season when, as we sometimes say, it does not 
 
156 CEYLQK 
 
 rain, but pours. Vegetation flourishes in great luxuriance. 
 The cocoa palm and other tropical trees grow naturally wher- 
 ever an opportunity is given. 
 
 The Oriental Hotel, on the water-front, is a fine building 
 and a sumptuous hostelry. Besides this one, there are two or 
 three other good hotels built and managed by Europeans for 
 travelers by sea. After a visit to the post-office, attention was 
 attracted to the neat little carriages backed up against the 
 curbstone. They were in the form of light carts with springs, 
 hooded, cushioned, and comfortably inviting. Their motive 
 power was a man, who, placing himself between the shafts and 
 grasping one in each hand, would trot off with the agility of a 
 horse, in fact, with much more celerity than the poor specimens 
 of horse-flesh we saw around us. These were jinrikishas, and 
 though totally opposed to the idea of one man s riding another, 
 curiosity and the urgent solicitude of the human horses pre- 
 vailed upon me to have one trip. It was a novel experience, 
 and not unpleasant, except for the sight of the nearly naked 
 fellow who was tugging in the shafts while streams of sweat 
 coursed down his person. Sut there was no bother with whip 
 or reins, though I did long for the latter, since it was impossi- 
 ble to talk with the man, as it would have been with the ordi- 
 nary horse. So he was allowed to take his course. He chose 
 a very interesting one indeed, so that it was a pleasure to pay 
 him his small fee when the journey ended where it began. 
 The services of a competent guide and a horse were obtained 
 with which to visit more remote parts of the city. 
 
BUDDHISM 
 
 ERE we are to obtain our only view of Buddhism; 
 for thouoli this relioion had its birth in India, it has 
 been very nearly expelled from the land of its na- 
 tivity, the vestiges of a few relies only remaining. 
 But here in Ceylon it has obtained a firm footing. Of the 
 population of the island more than one half are followers of 
 Buddha. Half a million are Hindus, two hundred thousand 
 are Mohammedans, and one hundred and fifty thousand profess 
 to be Christians. The latter are mostly the result of the la- 
 bors of the Roman Catholic missionaries, and it is perfectly 
 safe to say that this class do nothing more than profess Chris- 
 tianity, and in many cases do even that very ftiintly. In mak- 
 ing the transfer from Buddhism to the Catholic Church, the 
 individual need not revolutionize his sentiments or practice to 
 any perceptible extent. As the church gains influence, she is 
 able to hold out inducements of a temporal nature; and this, 
 to the poor wretches who struggle with hunger and destitution 
 for the merest livelihood, is no small temptation. The scru- 
 ples which they may have upon the point of abandoning the re- 
 ligion of their fathers are overcome by the thought that there 
 is no practical dilTerence between this and that required in 
 their relntions to Buddha. As this is our first, and will be our 
 last, look at Buddhism, a brief sketch of the system may be in 
 place here. 
 
 " Buddha" is an ascriptive title rather than a proper name. 
 Its meaning is "the enlightened." The religion known as 
 
 [157] 
 
158 BUDDHISM. 
 
 Biuldhism has existed for nearly twenty-five hundred years. 
 Its founder was Gautama, a royal prince, whose home was in 
 northern central India. After marrying happily, a son was 
 born to him, and his home and prospects for the future con- 
 tained everything which from a natural standpoint could make 
 life desirable. But in the midst of these scenes upon wdiich 
 the heart naturally dwells with delight, even in contemplation, 
 and which but few can ever realize, Gautama's heart conceived 
 an abhorrence for the vanities of life. He brooded over its un- 
 certainties and the unavoidable dissolution which awaits all 
 earthly things. His father sought to divert his mind from 
 these melancholy reflections by surrounding him with all that 
 wealth and honor could bestow ; but it was to no purpose. He 
 chose to leave all that heart could hold dear, to cut in sunder 
 every tie that bound him to earth, and by a life ot[ rigid asceti- 
 cism and contemplation to discover, if possible, the secret of 
 true happiness and peace. 
 
 Upon the night in which his first-born came into the 
 world, he turned from his home, without a farewell word to 
 his beautiful and affectionate wife, or one look at his newdjorn 
 babe. Accompanied by his servant, he passed hastily into the 
 wilderness, at the border of which he dismissed his servant 
 and sent him back with the horse. Exchancino- his robes for 
 the ra2:s of a mendicant, cuttins; off his lonij hair, the sign of 
 his high rank and caste,, he devoted himself for six years to 
 rigorous meditation in which posture his images represent him, as 
 seen in the illustration. At this time he w^as tempted to give up 
 the struggle and return to a more congenial life ; but his few 
 followers deserting him, he once more resolved to continue his 
 meditations. So he seated himself under a tree, where he re- 
 mained for weary months, until, of a sudden, light broke in 
 upon his soul, and he went forth to preach his new-found doc- 
 trine to others. The tree under which he had sat became to 
 
A LIVING DEATH. 
 
 159 
 
 him and his followers the most sacred spot on earth, and was 
 called Bohidrnma (the tree of intelligence), whence we have 
 the bo-tree, which is held in sacred veneration throughout 
 India, the title being applied to the pippul-tree. 
 
 The principle of Gautama's philosophy, briefly stated, seems 
 to be tliat existence is an unmitigated evil ; that the only way 
 to escape its evils is to ignore its fact, and to live as nearly as 
 possible as if there were no life. It is therefore necessary to 
 
 Image of Rtddha. 
 
 labor to quench, snuff out, beat down, and exterminate every 
 natural emotion, and become absorbed in the contemplation of 
 the abstract. To him there w\as no God such as the heart 
 naturally venerates, much less such a one as the Bible reveals. 
 Gautama, being a Hindu, retained his idea of the transmigration 
 of souls and the final extinction of individual existence by ab- 
 sorption into an indefinite "original" called "the Nirvana." 
 With the private life of Buddha no fault is found. His teach- 
 ings embrace lofty sentiments of self-abnegation and moral 
 ethics. 
 
100 BUBDHISM. 
 
 The following concise statement of Buddliisni is from a 
 o-ood authority : — 
 
 "The key of the whole schemo'of Buddhist salvation lies 
 in what Gautama called his Four Suhlime Verities. The first 
 asserts that pain exists ; the second, that the cause of pain is 
 desire or attachment — the meaning of which will appear 
 Hirther on ; and the fourth shows the way that leads to Nir- 
 vana. This way to Nirvana consists in eight things : right 
 faith, right judgment, right language, right purpose, right 
 practice, right obedience, right memor}', and right meditation. 
 In delivering his precepts, the Buddha considers men as di- 
 vided into two classes, — -those who have embraced the relig- 
 ious life (Sramanas), and those who continue in the world, or 
 are laymen. These last are considered as too much attached 
 to existence to feel any desire or have any hope of emancipa- 
 tion, at least at this stage. But there are certain precepts 
 which it is necessary for all to obey, that they may not bring 
 greater misery npon themselves in their next birth, and rivet 
 the bonds of existence more indissolubly. There are ten 
 moral precepts or ' precepts of aversion.' Five of these are of 
 universal application ; namely, not to kill ; not to steal ; not 
 to commit adultery; not to lie; not to be drunken. Other 
 five for those entering on the direct pursuit of Nirvana by em- 
 bracing the religious life are : to abstain from food out of 
 season — that is, after mid-day ; to abstain from dances, theat- 
 rical representations, songs and music ; to abstain from per- 
 sonal ornaments and perfumes ; to abstain from a lofty and 
 luxurious couch ; to abstain from taking gold and silver. For 
 the regular ascetics or monks, there are a number of special 
 observances of a very severe kind. They are to dress only in 
 rags sewed together with their own hands, and to have a 
 yellow cloak thrown over the rags. They are to eat only the 
 simplest food, and to possess nothing except what they get by 
 
A DARK PICTURE. Id 
 
 collecting alms from door to door in a wooden bowl. Only 
 one meal is allowed them, and that must be eaten before mid- 
 day. For a part of the year, they are to li^-e in forests, with 
 no other shelter except the shadow of a tree ; and there they 
 must sit on their carpet even during sleep, to lie down being 
 forbidden. Thev are allowed to enter the nearest villaoe to 
 beg food, but they must return to their forests before night. 
 
 "Besides the absolutely necessary 'aversions and obserA- 
 ances ' above mentioned, the transgression of which must lead 
 to misery in the next existenre, there are. certain virtues or 
 ' perfections ' of a supererogatory story or transcendent kind, 
 that tend directly to 'conduct to the other shore' (Nirvana). 
 The most essential of these are almsgiving or charity, purity, 
 patience, courage, contemplation, and knowledge. Charity or 
 benevolence may be said to be the characteristic virtue of 
 Buddhism, — a charity boundless in its self-abnegation, and 
 extending to every sentient being. The benevolent actions 
 done by the Buddha himself, in the course of his many mill- 
 ions of migrations, w^ere favorite themes wath his followers. 
 On one occasion, seeing a tigress starved, and unable to feed 
 her cubs, he hesitated not to make his body an oblation to 
 charity, and allowed them to devour him. Benevolence to 
 animals, with that tendency to exaggerate a right principle so 
 characteristic of the East, is carried among the Buddhist monks 
 to the leno'th of avoidinor the destruction of fleas and the most 
 noxious vermin, which they remoA'e from their persons with all 
 tenderness." 
 
 Buddhism in its best phases, as taught by the philosopher 
 himself, presents the spectacle of a soul struggling with the 
 ills of sinful, mortal life, as they appear to the human under- 
 standing, without the help of divine grace or the enlighten- 
 ment of the wisdom that comes from above. It is humanity 
 j)rofoundly impressed with an indistinct sense of its own 
 11 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 an 
 
 a: 
 S 
 
 a 
 
 
MACHINE PRAYING. 10;> 
 
 needs, coping single-handed with the problem of its own salva- 
 tion. The picture is dark both in foreground and in Itack- 
 ground. Its perspective is unrelieved by one single ray of 
 hope beaming from the spiritual world. It comes to those 
 who are sick with sin, and depicts their dreadful condition, 
 prescribes ashes and gall for their sorrow, with the hope (?) of 
 final extinction at last. Analogy and nature taught Gautanni, 
 to some extent, the character of sin, and observation showed 
 him some of its common forms. But it was only a human 
 conception of sin, and the remedy was but human. How has 
 the grand scheme worked out in practical life ? — Just as 
 every earth-born scheme of human redemption from sin has 
 terminated and ever will terminate — in utter failure. Gau- 
 tama had not the remotest thought of posing as an object of 
 worship; he endeavored to teach the contrary of earthly am- 
 bition. But his followers soon lost sight of even the main 
 elements of the virtue which his system embraced. Buddha be- 
 came a god to them, and his philosophy degenerated into the 
 most senseless idolatry. There was in it no divine element. 
 Separated from Jesus Christ, the world has not the slightest 
 power to save itself nor even to check its downward career to 
 everlastins: ruin. 
 
 The visit to one of the temples was one of interest, and 
 confirmed the conclusion reached in reference to the practical 
 workings of the system. In front of the inclosure stand two 
 or three towers of light frame-work, which were hung full of 
 rags. These flapping in the wind repeat prayers in behalf 
 of the individuals who have huno; them there ; so that a man 
 may hang his bit of cloth upon the prayer-tower, and go about 
 his business with the happy assurance that his prayers are go- 
 ing on continually. The same superstition is seen in Thibet 
 in the mammoth prayer-wheels, in which are placed images of 
 Buddha and prayers innumerable, the wheels being turned by 
 
1(34 BUDDHLSM. 
 
 horse-power, wind, or water-power. Each revolution is sup- 
 posed to develop, in behalf of the one for whom it is turned, 
 all the virtue there is in the entire outfit. This it probably 
 does. Smaller wheels are very common. Some are carried in 
 the hand or set up by the wayside, as I have often seen in the 
 Himalaya Mountains. They turn nimbly on a spindle, and 
 those simple souls suppose that in turning them they receive 
 great merit. These foolish ideas have their counterpart too in 
 Christian countries. They forcibly remind us of the very 
 familiar story of the man who, to save time, had his evening 
 prayer printed and pasted to his bedpost, and would point to 
 that as his sentiments before jumping into bed. Although 
 this is an exaggeration of the facts, it doubtless represents 
 quite correctly what, in the minds of many worldly-minded 
 professors, passes for devotion. 
 
 Buddhism has extended over a great portion of Southern 
 Asia, and holds under its shadow five hundred million people, 
 or one third of the inhabitants of the earth. But its popu- 
 larity is no criterion of its success. The question by which it 
 should be tried is. Does it save men and women from sin and 
 its consequences ? Does it elevate its devotees in intelligence 
 and morality, and bring to them knowledge and happiness ? 
 It is of the earth, earthv. Beneath the weight of human 
 degradation and its own inherent weakness, it quickly sunk to 
 its own level of heathen superstition, and became entirely im- 
 potent for any good in the dire necessities of the race. 
 
 1/ 
 
SIGHTS IN COLOMBO AND MADRAS. 
 
 P2NSIDE the temple we find a corridor extending aronnd 
 the inner wall, on both sides of Avhich are figures of 
 _ Buddha in a sitting and pensive posture. Each of 
 these is a shrine at which small lamps of cocoa oil are 
 kept burning; the walls are adorned with frescoes of historical 
 events. Upon one side is a recumbent image of Buddha over 
 twenty feet long, in which he is represented lying upon his 
 right side. The figure is covered with gilt, and inclosed in a, 
 glass case. It was expected at this place, as at every similar 
 one, that the officiating priest would receive a small present of 
 money. As we were about to leave, the principal portion of 
 the worshipers were transformed at once into a pack of beg- 
 gars, whose importunities passed far into the realm of impu- 
 dence. One girl, of perhaps fourteen years, more advanced in 
 the art than most children, had in her hand a beautiful nosegay 
 which she continually urged me to accept. Finally, seeing 
 that I did not care for it, she placed it in my hand, and after 
 waiting for a response of coppers, which was not forthcoming, 
 she demanded pay for her flowers. But I stepped into the 
 carriage and drove away, retaining the flowers. She ran along- 
 side the carriage, insisting upon pay; but when she did not get 
 it, she watched her opportunity and, springing up, caught the 
 flowers from my hand before I was aware of her movements. 
 But they would hardly serve for another trick without being 
 repaired ! 
 
 [165] 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 O 
 
 o 
 
CUSTOM :S AND PRODUCTS. 167 
 
 Tobacco-chewing, one of the foulest practices of modern 
 Christendom, finds a rival in Ceylon and India in the disgust- 
 ing habit of chewing the betel leaf. Men, w^omen, and chil- 
 dren seem to chew this substance almost constantly. It, is 
 chewed in a green state, and is therefore juicy. The dark red 
 color of the juice is allowed to discolor teeth, lips, and the ad- 
 jacent external territory, with a reckless disregard for personal 
 appearance. The taste of the green leaf is of a spicy fbivor 
 and not so pungent as that of tobacco, but its deep and copious 
 coloring matter renders its use about as disgusting as that of 
 its civilized (?) congener. 
 
 The inhabitants of Ceylon are of various origin and shades 
 of color, from the white British officer to the coal-black Ethi- 
 o^jjan. Besides the Cingalese, or native dwellers, the prevail- 
 ing element is the Tamil from the adjoining shores of Southern 
 India ; next are the Arabs, then the Malays, the Abyssinians, 
 and others. The Europeans number about five thousand. 
 Ceylon is a dependency of the British empire. The adminis- 
 tration is in the hands of a governor appointed by Great Britain, 
 and assisted by a council of five. Ceylon was formerly noted 
 for the coftee which it exported, but its culture having been 
 almost wholly discontinued on account of diseases of the plant, 
 tea has taken its place. In 1879 coffee was exported to the 
 value of over fifteen million dollars ; in ten years it had fallen 
 to one tenth of that amount; and during that time the produc- 
 tion of tea increased in the same proportion. Other articles of 
 export are cinchona, cocoa-nut oil, and cinnamon. The money 
 of Ceylon is the rupee divided into one hundred cents, instead 
 of the pice and pies of India. 
 
 The fruit and vegetable market, situated in the center of 
 the citv, is a most interesting sio-ht to visitors. The strange 
 varieties of vegetables, fruits, and flowers constitute a museum 
 to the stranger, and afford him a large amount of pleasurable 
 
168 SIGHTS IN' COLOMBO AND MADRAS. 
 
 study. The city is nearly divided by a large fresh-water lake 
 formed by water from the mountains. The principal park is 
 called the Cinnamon Garden. This is not, as one might be led 
 to suppose from the name, a garden where cinnamon is culti- 
 vated, but a public park in which all sorts of trees, shrubs, and 
 flowers grow. In the midst of the park stands the Govern- 
 ment Museum, a place of exceeding interest on account of the 
 strange specimens it contains. But the entire city partakes so 
 much of the nature of a park that one does not appreciate the 
 really beautiful garden so much as he would if it graced some 
 other city. For on all sides the stately palm, loaded at this 
 time with ripening clusters of nuts, the spreading mango and 
 rubber trees, the much-heard-of banyan, with cinnamon trees 
 and luxuriant banana plants growing everywhere, form a 
 continual scene of loveliness. In the European portion of the 
 city many of the residences are very beautiful, the attractive- 
 ness being greatly heightened by the lavish display of foliage 
 and flowers. A walk out on the breakwater, as ffir as the 
 dashing seas would permit, in company with a Christian Eng- 
 lish policeman, formed an agreeable feature of the day, which 
 was pleasantly finished by a drive along the Galle Face, a sea- 
 side promenade, ornamented with boulevards, walks, and beds 
 of choice flowers. Upon the sandy beach the rolling breakers 
 are constantly displaying their graceful and majestic forms. 
 
 Our vessel from Colombo to Calcutta was the " Chusan," 
 from London. And as it was at the beuinninii' of the cool sea- 
 son, it was full of passengers returning to India after their 
 summer vacation. Among the passengers was a goodly num- 
 ber of missionaries, some of whom were going out for the first 
 time. The strait between Ceylon and the mainland of India 
 is not of sufficient depth for large vessels, so the trip to Cal- 
 cutta has to be made bv sailing around the southern and east- 
 ern sides of the island. It being fine weather, we enjoyed a 
 
MADRAS. 169 
 
 delightful ride, nearly all the way in sight of the lovely mount- 
 ains and ragged cliffs of the land where " every prospect 
 pleases, and only man is vile." 
 
 Leaving Colombo at half past five on Friday evening, we 
 neared the harbor of Madras late on the afternoon of Sunday. 
 The shores are so low that at a distance of ten miles or more 
 the city appears to be sitting upon the water, for the buildings 
 are in sight some time before the land can be seen. 
 
 The city being built upon the open beach or roadstead, the 
 harbor is an artificial one, formed by two arms of a breakwater 
 built of immense blocks of concrete tumbled into the sea, in- 
 stead of being laid in symmetrical shape as at Colombo. The 
 two arms do not quite meet at their extremities, thus leaving 
 an opening through which vessels pass. Ships are not able to 
 come to the shore, but loading and unloading must be done by 
 means of liiihters and small boats. 
 
 Madras is the third city in India. It is located on the 
 Bay of Bengal, about midway between the southern point of 
 the country and the mouth of the Ganges. Its population is 
 four hundred and thirty thousand, composed mainly of Tamils 
 and Telugus, the two principal nationalities of Southern India. 
 The city stands upon, or very near, the line that divides their 
 territories. The natives of this part of India are much darker 
 than those farther north. Here England gained her first foot- 
 hold in India. Madras was established by the British, repre- 
 sented by Francis Day, in 1639. Long-continued missionary 
 work has been bestowed here, and it is claimed that there are 
 forty-five thousand Christians in the city. There are about 
 thirty Christian church edifices, some of which are of large 
 size and comfortable appearance. 
 
 Arriving in the harbor late in the evening, no attempt was 
 made to go ashore except by those who had now reached 
 their destination. Among these were two young ladies who 
 
170 SIGHTS IN COLOMBO AND MADRAS. 
 
 hnd come to meet their going-to-be husbands, whom they had 
 never seen before that evening, when they came on board to 
 meet them. The hidies had come in answer to advertisements, 
 and appeared to be persons of culture and gentility. The ex- 
 citing interest with which they met their future companions was 
 shared by all the passengers who had formed their acquaint- 
 ance. So far as an onlooker could observe, there was no 
 shadow of disappointment in the meeting to mar the prospect 
 of a happy future. 
 
 The following morning we were notified that the vessel 
 would remain but a short time in port, therefore no time was 
 to be lost. There was no difficulty in finding a conveyance 
 ashore, for the moment one appeared to be contemplating such 
 a move, the natives would eagerly scramble over each other to 
 get him to go in their boats. After quite a scrimmage of this 
 kind, I made an agreement with a party who was to take me 
 to shore and return for a stipulated sum. The boats in this 
 harbor are great lumbering craft built for cargo, of rude planks 
 sewed tegether. They are propelled by from six to ten coolies 
 with paddles consisting of round paddle-blades fastened to the 
 end of long, slender poles. Onr boat, on account of its size 
 and weight, could not come very near the shore; therefore I 
 was loaded upon the shoulders of three men, who took me to 
 dry land. For this service each demanded a fee, having paid 
 which, I was told that the price agreed upon for the trip 
 would answer for only one way, and I would have to pay the 
 same for my return. I did not argue the case then, but con- 
 cluded that I would see about it later. 
 
 It turned out that one of the men in the boat was a pro- 
 fessional guide, who attached himself to my service with a 
 devotion that was really interesting. Shake him off I could 
 not; so, making a virtue of necessity, I bargained for his serv- 
 ices, with a carriage. lie proved to be competent, and was 
 
/ FELL A3fOA^G BEG GAR JS. 171 
 
 worth all he asked in defending me from a worse crowd of 
 beggars than I had ever dreamed of. I was traveling entirely 
 alone, and often found it a great disadvantage to have to cope 
 single-handed with a multitude who regard the traveler as their 
 legitimate prey, from whom they must wrest the very last 
 cent by begging, swindling, or cajolery. In a country where 
 a very few cents is an ordinar}^ wage for a day's work, an 
 hour or so vigorously spent upon a stranger's sympathy or 
 gullibility will sometimes permit them to take two or three 
 holidays. On this particular occasion, an attempt was made 
 to take advantage of my apparent greenness, but in the main 
 it proved a bootless pursuit, for it does not require very much 
 acuteness of vision to perceive their knavish tricks. 
 
 The People's Park, the burning-field, where the dead are 
 cremated, the central market, and a general drive through the 
 city comprised my visit to Madras. The first-mentioned point 
 is not worthy of special attention when compared with the 
 botanical and zoological gardens to be seen in many other 
 places. The sight of some strange animals was of interest, 
 though of these the alligators, who possess two pairs of eyes, 
 one upon the upper and another on the under side of the head, 
 only were remarkable. This is a very convenient arrangem.ent 
 for creatures that have to look both up and down for their food. 
 The keeper would roll them over for inspection, and stir them 
 up with a pole for their exercise and our amusement. 
 
 The very crowded condition of the cities impresses the 
 stranger in all these Eastern countries. The people live in 
 swarms. Even the villages are compact; hence one who is ac- 
 customed to the liberal room of Western towns would get but 
 an inadequate idea of the population of a city from its apparent 
 or comparative size. 
 
 A boy for the first time in a menagerie does not gaze with 
 greater wonder and interest upon the strange sights than does 
 
^^V ESCAPE. 173 
 
 a man from Northern civilization look upon the continually 
 shifting panorama of strange scenes that is passing before his 
 eyes, as he visits the " other side " of the world for the first 
 time. Everything he beholds is dilferent from what he is ac- 
 customed to see. The color and manners of the people, their 
 strange dress, strange buildings, bazaars and shops, modes of 
 conveyance, — in fact, every feature upon which the eye rests, 
 — all are new and strange. At the close of the first day one 
 could write almost a volume on the remarkable things he has 
 seen. But in a very short time he will again be surprised, — 
 this time at himself; for he is becoming so accustomed to 
 these things that they no longer attract attention. When 
 asked to tell what he has seen, he has forgotten his first 
 impressions, and can recall but little that is worthy of re- 
 mark. Thus rapidly does the mind accommodate itself to its 
 surroundings ! 
 
 As soon as I was seated in the boat for the return, and we 
 had fairly pushed off the shore, pay, — double pay, — was de- 
 manded, which was promptly refused. I was told that they 
 would not row me to the ship unless I paid them. I signified 
 
 my willingness to stay wdiere we w^ere, and so we lay quiet 
 for some time; but fearing that the vessel might leave, I or- 
 dered the crew to take me on board. Verbally refusing, yet 
 practically yielding, by slow degrees we reached the ship ; but 
 then they carefully kept clear of the gangway, and insisted 
 upon having their pay. My answer was that they would, get 
 nothing till I Avas on the ship. I was near the middle of the 
 boat, and apparently indifferent about getting off, as I saw that 
 the vessel was not going for some time. Seeing me so com- 
 fortable, they too became careless, and let the boat bum}) 
 against another which w^as tied to the ship's companion-way. 
 Before they realized it, their passenger was skipping across the 
 other boat and up the ladder. They quickly followed, angrily 
 
174 ^SIGHT^S IN COLOMBO AND MADRAS. 
 
 demanding their money. Reaching the deck, they receiA^ed 
 the sum agreed upon for the round trip, and for their further 
 trouhle were unceremoniously tumbled off the steamer by the 
 boatswain and his men. 
 
 Tlie man wdio acted as guide was not at all satisfied with 
 the liberal price agreed upon for his services, and the driver of 
 the carriage insisted that he had not received his pay. In 
 short, every man of them who had volunteered any trifling 
 service or advice wanted pay. The guide assured me in start- 
 ing out that he was a good, honest Christian ; that he gave all 
 his money to God, and did not use it for himself, or his mother, 
 or his wife, or his sister, but gave all to the Lord. Yet he 
 diowed his bringing up in making change by trying to cheat 
 me every time an opportunity offered itself. 
 
 Considering the character of my experience, it was with 
 no particular regrets upon my part that we sailed out upon the 
 broad Bay of Bengal. The chief officer asking me what I 
 thought of Madras, I could but reply that it was the best 
 place to get out of that I had ever seen. Let us stop here to 
 look at this matter in the sober light of a better experience 
 and wider observation. People from our civilization usually 
 obtain and carry away from India the opinion that the natives 
 are a race of unmitigated liars and thieves; and they attach to 
 the character of the people all the opprobrium which such a 
 reputation carries in countries of Christian education. This is, 
 however, a wrong estimate of their real character ; for a per- 
 son's character depends upon at least two things : first, the 
 standard by which he has been educated ; second, the faithful- 
 ness with which he lives up to that standard — not his fidelity 
 in living up to what has been taught us, but to what has been 
 taught him. It is unreasonable for us to hold people in unen- 
 lightened countries amenable to our own moral code, when 
 these principles have not been taught them. 
 
FROM MADRAS TO THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 E left Madras at noon on Monday ; and as the pilot 
 11^ who took us out of the harbor was leaving the 
 bridae, he was overheard to remark that there was 
 ^"■^ a heavy cyclone on the other side of the bay, next 
 
 to Burmah, and as it was making its way northwest, we would 
 probably meet it. These words quickly going around among 
 the passengers caused some uneasiness, for a cyclone in these 
 waters often means destruction to the vessels that happen to 
 be in its path. But the outcome proved the w^isdom of that 
 old proverb which tells us not to trouble trouble till trouble 
 troubles us. 
 
 The quantity of silt that is brought down by the Ganges 
 and Brahmapootra rivers and discharged into the bay, forms ex- 
 tensive bars which render navigation difficult for more than 
 fifty miles below where the mouths of the rivers are reached. 
 At this distance from the mainland the pilot-station is located 
 on a ship at anchor. We picked up our pilot still farther out at 
 sea, on the afternoon of Wednesday, and slowly made our way 
 toward the entrance of the shifting channel. During that 
 night we had an experience which called to mind the predic- 
 tion of the Madras pilot. As usual, nearly all the passengers 
 were sleeping on the open decks. The heat below was too 
 oppressive for sleeping, and so the obliging stewards spread 
 our mattresses and coverings in any eligible spot which we 
 might choose. My location was the cover of the main liatch 
 forward. At midnight we were suddenly aroused from 
 
 [17.3] 
 
17C) FROM MADRAS TO THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 our peaceful slumbers by a dashing rain, accompanied by 
 blinding sheets of lightning and almost deafening peals of 
 thunder. To us there seemed to be no preliminaries to this 
 storm. If there were, we were not made aware of them, and 
 before we could scramble out of bed and under shelter, wh;it 
 little clothing we had on, together with bed and beddinii-, 
 
 *— ' ■'CD C 7 
 
 was thoroughly drenched. 
 
 But that was not all there was to it, for to be so rudely 
 awakened from peaceful sleep into the wildest commotion of a 
 tropical storm, was rather too much for some w^eak nerves ; so 
 while some were lauohing and wrinii'ino- their clothino', others 
 were screaming and w^riniiinii' their hands, thinking that we 
 were at the mercy of the dreaded cyclone. And, as if to add 
 to the confusion, the ship's engines were stopped, and the 
 great whistle shrieked out its warning to other vessels to keep 
 clear of us. There was hardly any wind, so that the sea was 
 reasonably calm ; but such torrents of rain, such crashing and 
 flashing of serial artillery, I never had heard or seen equaled. 
 It was my privilege to comfort a poor Eurasian, a government 
 telegraph officer, who was so frightened that he rushed about 
 moaning in terror. Not feeling any fear on this occasion, I 
 enjoyed the demonstration, though impressed with a sense of 
 human helplessness in the presence of such forces. In a short 
 time, the storm having passed over, we were on our way again. 
 But before morning the vessel anchored, as it became danger- 
 ous to proceed without daylight. 
 
 That branch of the delta which we were seeking, and upon 
 which Calcutta stands, is called the IToogly River. It is 
 formed by the junction of the first two off-shoots from the 
 Ganges, and in this united form it is one hundred and twenty- 
 five miles long. Being a branch of the sacred river, the same 
 character is attributed to it. Indeed, it is rea:arded as the 
 most sacred portion of the delta. The first land w^e reached 
 
JUGGERNAUT. 177 
 
 was the island which bears the name of Saugur. It is quite a 
 body of hind, and is regarded as an especially sacred spot, 
 since it is the place where "Mother Ganges" loses herself in 
 the sea. At this point some of the most celebrated of Hindu 
 feasts and ceremonies are carried on, and at certain seasons 
 the devotees flock here by thousands. It is here perhaps that 
 we have more authentic evidence of the practice of Hindu 
 women castini;' tlieir babies to crocodiles than a nv where else 
 in India. It is strenuously denied by many that such things 
 ever took place. 
 
 Many, also, who are well-versed in the customs and history 
 of the people, reject the much-talked-of story of self-destruc- 
 tion under the car of Juggernaut, as something altogether im- 
 probable. Sir Wm. Hunter, for instance, speaks of the report 
 in this manner : " Nothing can be more unjust than the vulgar 
 story which associates his car-festival with the wholesale self- 
 murder of his worshipers. Vishnu is always a bright and 
 friendly god, who asks no offerings but flowers, and to whom 
 the shedding of blood is an offense. The official records and 
 an accurate examination on the spot disprove the calumnies ol' 
 some English writers on this subject." 
 
 As regards the Juggernaut story, it is probable that in the 
 crush and excitement, when many thousands were struggling 
 to obtain places at the ropes, some would stumble and fall un- 
 der the massive wheels. Still further, it might be that some 
 forlorn or aged persons to whom life seemed a burden would 
 commit suicide in this way. But it is not probable that the 
 custom was either sanctioned or practiced to any extent as a 
 voluntary sacrifice of human life. In regard to casting babies 
 to alligators, it is not unlikely that in a time when the murder 
 of female infants was practiced to a horrible extent, and sanc- 
 tioned by common consent, this way of disposing of un- 
 welcome children was resorted to. But it would -be difficult, 
 
 13 
 
rjl 
 
 I' 
 
APPRO ACIILYG CALCUTTA. 17I) 
 
 at the present time, to discover any trace of snch a revoltinu- 
 custom, especially since infanticide is made a crime by law. 
 
 No sooner had we approached near enough the mainland to 
 obtain a view, than the idea of " India's coral strands " quickly 
 vanished. The shores are muddy here, and the whole region 
 is but the alluvial wash of the river deposited in the ages past. 
 Signs of life soon appeared on either bank, and it was more 
 than one pair of eyes could do to take in all the sights that 
 were presented to the right and to the left, together w^th the 
 medley of strange craft that were continually sweeping by. 
 It is eighty miles up the river to Calcutta. On our ship all is 
 bustle and expectancy. Among all our passengers there seemed 
 to be but one wdio was not anticipating a reception by friends. 
 Those who were coming home kindly pointed out to strangers 
 and named the various points of interest. As we drew near 
 the city, jute-mills, cotton-factories, and other manufacturing 
 establishments appeared. We sailed past the Botanical Gar- 
 dens, and entered the narrow channel between two solid rows 
 of vessels which lined either shore. They were anchored to 
 buoys, and ranged five or six abreast for a distance of over one 
 mile. I have never seen so large an assemblage of sailing 
 craft in any port as were gathered there. Here were ships of 
 all nations, some of which had evidently been waiting long for 
 a cargo. 
 
 At about two o'clock on the afternoon of November 3, we 
 drew up to the wharf. The gang-plank was soon thrown up 
 to our deck, and w'e entered heathendom in earnest — but not 
 such a heathendom as our childhood fancies had painted. Cal- 
 cutta is called the " city of palaces " in irony by the visitor, 
 but in reality by its denizens ; but whatever we call it, it is 
 a mighty metropolis, full of the hum and hubbub of business. 
 It being the capital of the country, quite a number of Euro- 
 peans are naturally and necessarily drawn hither. In the out- 
 
ISO FROM MADRAS TO THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 lying portions of the city, and along the magnificent boulevard 
 which faces the river, are residences of the wealthy classes, 
 both native and European. 
 
 After three weeks of living on shipboard, and then landing 
 in this strange, confusing place, nothing seemed so desirable as 
 a r[uiet spot in wdiich to get square wdth the world once more. 
 Learning that the train for Darjeeling left at about four o'clock, 
 I made haste to transact a little necessary business, and w^as 
 driven to the railway station in a close-covered, square-topped 
 carriage called a "gharry," which in India takes the place of a 
 hack. Within two hours from the time of disembarking, I was 
 leaving the opposite side of the city, drawn by the iron horse 
 at a flying rate of speed. The train glided along with a 
 smoothness that was very pleasant. The carriages of the first 
 and second classes are generally twenty feet in length, and 
 divided into two compartments which are entered through 
 doors from a platform, or at the side. Along each side is a 
 seat of good width, and a third one with a reversible back runs 
 throuirh the middle. Above the side seats are two foldins; shelves 
 which may be let down at night to serve as berths. Nearly 
 everyone traveling in India carries his bed with him. It need 
 not consist of more than a blanket and a pillow, or it may be a 
 more elaborate outfit. The railways supply sufficient carriages 
 so that not more than five passengers need ride in a compart- 
 ment, and generally not more than three; and a rupee judi- 
 ciously bestowed upon the guard, or conductor, will generally 
 give a European passenger sole occupancy. When night comes 
 on, he spreads his bed on the long seat, and quietly rests till 
 morning. 
 
 On this occasion our journey was rudely broken at about 
 nine o'clock in the evening by arriving at the banks of the 
 Ganges River, where it was necessary to transfer. On the 
 deck of a comfortable ferry-steamer I thoroughly enjoyed 
 
CLIMBING THE MOUNTAINS. 181 
 
 the moonlight ride of four or five miles on the majestic stream. 
 I must confess to some strange impressions that evening, — so 
 far away from friends, and floating calmly down that river 
 whose name was associated with the weird and mystical realms 
 of childhood's fancy. At this point the river has its greatest 
 volume. It has received its last tributary, and has not yet 
 divided its waters. Reaching the other bank, we were soon 
 ensconced once more in a comfortable temporary bed, and there 
 permitted to sleep till the sun was ready for another day's 
 business. 
 
 We reached Siliguri in time for breakfast. All night we 
 had been riding across the level Gangetic plain toward the 
 Himalayas to the north. Thus far, we had gained practically 
 nothing in altitude. But for some time the snow-topped 
 mountains had been looming up before us, and now we were 
 at their base. We must now exchange the ponderous train of 
 the valley for the light mountain climber, which runs on a 
 two-foot gauge. There stood a vigorous looking little ten-ton 
 engine, having its entire weight upon its driving wheels. The 
 carriages, accommodating about sixteen passengers each, are 
 not much larger than an ordinary omnibus, on account of the 
 sharp curves in the line. The sides are open all around, 
 though they may be closed with curtains. We are soon ready 
 for a start upon the most intensly interesting ride that it has 
 ever been my fortune to take. There now remained a little 
 over fifty miles of distance to Darjeeling. One fourth of 
 this is through jungle and forest before the ascent really 
 begins ; then in the next thirty miles we must rise seven 
 thousand four hundred feet and then descend four hundred 
 in the latter part of our journey. As we begin to rise, we 
 are impressed with the grandeur of the heights that tower 
 overhead. But we soon find that these were all low foot-hills, 
 and having mounted them, there are others like them still be- 
 
182 
 
 FROM MADRAS TO THE III 31 AL AY AS. 
 
 fore us ; and these being at last beneath us, we are almost 
 awestricken to see yet grander heights, and to be told that we 
 must gain not only those but others be^^ond. 
 
 The government road from Sikkim to Thibet is followed 
 very closely, though when the grade becomes too steep for the 
 engine, detours are made for loops, switchbacks, tunnels, and 
 
 The Darjeeling Railway. 
 
 every other device by which altitude may be gained by steam- 
 power. There are double loops, figure 8's, and zigzags along 
 the mountain-sides. A double loop is shown in the engraving. 
 Small sections of track may be seen on each side of the picture, 
 and the rails emerge from the ground near the center of 
 the picture. As we gain in height, the landscape below 
 us expands to our view. The plucky engine puffs away at 
 
A DIZZY RIDE. 183 
 
 its load, and succeeds in whirling us around sharp curves and 
 oA'er frightful bridges, as rapidly as one cares to ride in such 
 places. A yawning precipice is now directly in front, to the 
 very edge of which the engine rushes, then suddenly turns, and 
 in an instant the passenger is startled to find himself clutching 
 the arms of his seat, while he is hanging over an embankment 
 down which he can look many hundred feet perpendicularly. 
 Glancing over the plain below, to the farthest range of vis- 
 ion, he sees the land bathed in golden sunshine, through 
 which the rivers run like silver threads. Above and beyond 
 him he sees the towering heights of the everlasting mount- 
 ains ; never has he been so perfectly impressed with the great- 
 ness of the works of his Creator. 
 
 As we ascended, the precipices increased in dizzy height, 
 till at last it became necessary for me to turn my face to the 
 wall of rock that rose above us on the opposite side ; for my 
 head was whirling and my heart became faint with an over- 
 powering sense of grandeur which cannot be expressed. The 
 wagon road is in an excellent state, and crowded with people 
 and vehicles passing up and down. Those we met were carry- 
 ing tea and produce to Siliguri ; the ones returning were laden 
 with such supplies as the people in the hill country and Thibet 
 beyond required. Not more strange were the rude outfits 
 than were the people themselves. 
 
 At the altitude of five thousand feet, we passed into the 
 clouds, which for a time allowed us but occasional glimpses of 
 the scenery. Although this was a relief, yet there was such' 
 a fascination in the scenery that we could hardly endure to 
 have it shut off. By and by, we emerged above the clouds, 
 and then, although we could not look into the depths below, 
 we could look in wonder upon the upper side of clouds, be- 
 neath which we had lived so many years. From time to time, 
 we became conscious of a change in the temperature, and 
 
184 
 
 FROM MADRAS TO THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 gradually drew from the stock of clothing we had with us vest, 
 coat, overcoat, then mittens and muffler, and finally a fur robe. 
 At last we began to wish for a stove. 
 
 I traveled many weary miles to see that place, but I have 
 since felt that if it had been just to enjoy that mountain ride, 
 and then go back again, it would have repaid the trouble. 
 
 High Caste Hindu Childken. 
 
AMONG THE MOUNTAINS' 
 
 ARJEELING lies three hundred and eighty-seven 
 miles north from Calcutta, and is situated on a spur 
 of the Senchul Mountains which jut out from the 
 main range. Its population varies greatly according 
 to the season. In summer its cottages are all filled with peo- 
 ple from Calcutta and other parts, but in winter there are any 
 number of them "to let." A large sanitarium is located here, 
 conducted by the government, and patronized very liberally 
 b}^ invalids who come here to receive benefit from the invigor- 
 ating air. The treatment does not vary from that of the ordi- 
 nary hospital. The "Woodlands" hotel, which became our 
 home for a few days, is perched on the mountain side, two 
 hundred feet almost directly above the railway station. 
 
 In this country no traveler carries his own luggage. Gen- 
 erally he is accompanied by his own servant, who takes charge 
 of such matters ; but if this is not the case, upon alighting 
 from the train he is at once surrounded by a pushing, bawling 
 crowd of "bearers" (a caste) who jostle and scold each other 
 to get their hands on valise, bundle, trunk, or whatever he 
 may possess. They cunningly divide the packages among 
 themselves, so that as many as possible may earn something, 
 unless this ruse is headed off by the traveler who, in authori- 
 tative tone and gestures, commands the whole pack to lay his 
 goods down, and indicates one man whom he is willing to pay. 
 and let him divide it up as he chooses. The result is that he 
 takes the lot. I found it useless to try any other course ; no 
 
 [185] 
 
Y. 
 
 W 
 Q 
 
 
 o 
 
BEARERS. 187 
 
 matter how independent and democratic a person may be at 
 home , here he must recognize the multitude of poor wretches 
 who depend for the most meager support with which it is pos- 
 sible to sustain life, upon their opportunities to render little 
 services, and receive therefor but a trifle, which it is really 
 cruel to deny them. These people being always at hand, a 
 white man rarely lifts his A'alise or carries a package, for he 
 finds the nuisance of a crowd following him if he undertakes 
 to do his own work, to be greater than he cares to endure for 
 the sake of the cent or two with which he can hire the work 
 done ; besides, he can thus satisfy popular custom, and perhaps 
 help a starving family. 
 
 The bearers at Darjeeling were mostly young girls. And 
 as this was my first experience, it seemed a4ittle ungallant to 
 see them load up with heavy packages. But I finally yielded 
 to what seemed the inevitable, and a fine specimen of girlhood 
 about sixteen years of age proceeded to load my possessions 
 upon her back. I proposed to divide the load between us, but 
 she would not listen to it, so I started to climb the steep path. 
 It was soon necessary, in the thin air, for me to stop for 
 breath, but those Bhutian damsels, loaded with trunks and 
 valises, walked nimbly past without waiting for the empty- 
 handed travelers who lay panting by the wayside. 
 
 Any attempt to describe the grandeur of the scenery in 
 the midst of which Darjeeling is situated would be vain. The 
 next morning after arriving was the Sabbath. After taking 
 ckota hazri (little breakfast) upon arising, according to univer- 
 sal custom, I went to the top of Mount Jalopin immediately 
 above the hotel. It was yet early, the sun not having come 
 in sight from behind the mountains. But it has a good excuse 
 for its tardiness, seeing that the mountains are twenty thou- 
 sand feet in height. The pen hesitates to undertake the task 
 of describing the glorious scene which was now spread before 
 
188 AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 me. I was standing seven thousand and five hundred feet 
 above the sea, on the point of a short range of foot-hills. From 
 northwest to southwest, swinging around to the east, the gi- 
 gantic mountains formed an amphitheater crowned with everlast- 
 ing snow. In the small opening of the circle to the west lay 
 the dark recesses of the Ranjit valley, in which, thousands of 
 feet below, lay heavy banks of motionless clouds. 
 
 In the mountain wall are not less than eight peaks, the 
 lowest of which rises twentv-two thousand feet above the sea. 
 To the north was old Kanchanjanga, w^hose hoary head reaches 
 the height of twenty-eight thousand seven hundred and fifty 
 feet, or nearly five and a half miles perpendicularly. Just be- 
 hind this monster, but out of sight from our standpoint, sits 
 her slightly superior neighbor, Mount Everest, three hundred 
 feet higher, the highest peak in the world. These peaks were 
 covered with the purest snow; and as the sun rose slowly 
 behind them, their outlines shone like burnished gold, while 
 the immaculate wdiiteness of their snowy sides was enhanced 
 by contrast with the wooded heights and valleys that inter- 
 vened. 
 
 An inexpressible rapture filled the heart and bated the 
 breath as I gazed upon the scene whose beauty and glory I 
 never expect to see equaled till God once more makes all 
 things new. It was a fit place in which to spend a Sabbath 
 of rest. The surroundings seemed to brino; the soul into close 
 communion with its Maker. The greatness of God never ap- 
 peared in more striking contrast with our own insignificance. 
 And involuntarily the language of praise flowed from heart 
 and lips. 
 
 Such we apprehend to be the object of the Sabbath. It is 
 not designed to be an empty and formal ceremony, but to di- 
 rect the mind to the active contemplation of God as manifested 
 in his work, especially in that grandest of all revelations, his 
 
JSABBATR CONTEMPLATIONS. 189 
 
 Son Jesus Christ. Whether viewing the majestic in nature or 
 the humbler forms of life and the minute beauties of creation, 
 we may see in all things the handiwork of God indicating his 
 character of wisdom, truth, and love. When the world was 
 made and perfect harmony and happiness reigned everywhere, 
 the first Sabbath was kept. The assembled universe viewed 
 with admiration and glad surprise the work of the divine Hand. 
 God himself beheld, and lo, it was very good. Then the 
 morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted 
 for joy. This song of praise was in honor of Christ, for by 
 him and for him were all things made. 
 
 The Son of God is the great Creator. Through him the 
 Father ordained the worlds. The apostle tells us that " by 
 him were all things created that are in heaven, and that are in 
 earth, visible and invisible, whether they be thrones, or do- 
 minions, or principalities, or powers ; all things were created 
 by him, and for him." After having wrought in creation, 
 Christ rested upon and then blessed the seventh day. When 
 upon earth, he acknowledged the day as his own, saying that 
 "the Son of man is Lord also of the Sabbath-day." And as 
 in the beginning it was the sign of his creative power, so now 
 in these days it is also the sign of his work in redemption. 
 And thus the original Sabbath stands forever as the memorial 
 of God and of his Son. 
 
 After some hours spent in contemplation of these grand 
 themes, the upper air meanwhile becoming warmer, the clouds 
 began to rise in the valleys, till the curtain was drawn. 
 
 As we are to have a brief time for rest here in this grand and 
 beautiful place, far above the simmering plains with their teem- 
 ing millions of people, it will be our best opportunity to glance 
 over India by anticipation, and point out some of the charac- 
 teristic facts that our visit will reveal, but which, if previously 
 understood, will render our visit more intelligible. 
 
190 AM^N^G THE MQUNTAINS. 
 
 Books innumerable have been written on India ; and there 
 were in our minds some vivid images of bamboo jungles, 
 striped tigers, deadly serpents, gigantic juggernauts, burning 
 widows, and children thrown to the alligators. But those who 
 for the first time come to India carrying such notions with 
 them will find a double task imposed upon them — to unlearn 
 the untrue, as well as to learn the truth of everything as it is. 
 One will furnish about as much astonishment as the other. 
 To begin with, here is this significant statement : India covers 
 nearly one and one-half million square miles of territory, or 
 about one thirty-fifth of the earth. It contains nearly three 
 hundred million people, or almost one fifth of the earth's popu- 
 lation. The world's average density of population is twenty- 
 eight persons to the square mile. For India the average is 
 one hundred and eighty-six to the mile. In the United 
 States it is one tenth of that, or eighteen to the mile. In 
 several of the provinces of India there are over four hundred 
 and fifty people to the mile. In Bengal there are four hun- 
 dred and seventy-four, in Oudh five hundred and twenty-two 
 people living on each square mile of territory. The longest 
 extent of the country from north to south is nineteen hundred 
 miles, and from east to west it is just about the same. The 
 southern extremity, or apex, reaches to within eight degrees 
 of the equator. Its eastern shores are washed by the Bay of 
 Bengal ; its western coast, by the Arabian Sea. Since the 
 cession of Burmah to Great Britain, and its union with the 
 Indian dependencies, India nearly encircles the Bay of Bengal. 
 The long shores of the peninsula are washed by broad seas 
 which have in all ages presented a barrier to invasion. The 
 base of the pyramid extends into Asia ; but even here it is not 
 left without an effectual defense. The majestic Himalayas, 
 the most gigantic range of mountains in the world, form a 
 natural, rocky, and impassable rampart for a distance of nearly 
 

 h5 
 > 
 
 53 
 O 
 
 > 
 
192 AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 two thousand miles. On the northwest angle the Hindoo-Koosh 
 mountains form the boundary, but they constitute one system ; 
 and as they approach the sea, the lofty heights degenerate 
 into elevated plateaus, and are pierced by various passes. 
 Through these have passed all the invaders of India. 
 
 But besides forming a wall of defense to India, the Hima- 
 layas serve other purposes of even greater practical good. 
 During the monsoon season the strong winds from the ocean 
 bring vast clouds of A'apor over the land. In southern India 
 the rains begin in June, gradually extending northward so 
 that they reach the northern regions a month later. The 
 thirsty soil drinks greedily deep draughts of the life-giving 
 moisture ; but the great mass of the dense clouds are hurried 
 off toward the arid regions of Thibet, where rain is almost 
 unknown. But as they are about to leave India, the high 
 mountains present a staunch barrier to their further progress. 
 Being driven against the sturdy sides of the Himalayas, or 
 encircling their crowns, they are precipitated in copious rains 
 on the foot-hills or piled in vast drifts and fields of snow on 
 the summits. During the rainy season, which extends from 
 July to September inclusive, the southern slopes of these 
 mountains have a phenomenal fall of rain. In the province of 
 Assam the rain-fall is the heaviest in the ^^orld. The averaaje 
 annual fall is over four hundred inches, and in 18G1 it received 
 eight hundred and five inches. This year there fell in the 
 month of July three hundred and sixty-six inches. This 
 means a foot of water a day. Of course official figures are 
 Required to give a satisfactory confirmation to such reports, 
 but this statement is based on such testimony. The fall for 
 the entire year would have covered the country with sixty- 
 seven feet of water. The snow is melted by the rays of the 
 sun during the hot part of the year, thus dealing out this 
 immense store of moisture to the thirsty plains below. 
 
CLIMATE. 193 
 
 The climate of India divides itself into two seasons, the 
 warm and the hot. The temperature descends to the warm 
 degrees in the latter part of October, and by the first of 
 November it is quite endurable with the mercury in Calcutta 
 between eighty and ninety degrees P^hrenheit. This is the 
 time to visit India ; and it is then that steamships are crowded 
 with those who are going thither. But even at that time of 
 year, the rays of the sun are very hot, and the head of the 
 stranger needs to be well protected with a double umbrella 
 and a sola topi hat. This state of the weather continues 
 till February. During this time there is no rain except per- 
 haps a little at about Christmas. From then on the heat 
 increases until April and May, by which time it has become 
 to white people a question of mere existence. It is a mistake 
 to suppose, as many do, that there is an advantage in being 
 situated in the northern districts, for, on the contrary, the 
 f^irther one goes south the narrower the land becomes, and the 
 greater the preponderance of the sea breezes. In June, as 
 already mentioned, the rains begin to come, and in some re- 
 spects bring relief, though in others this is the most trying 
 season of all ; for the heat and moisture combine to produce 
 an atmosphere which many pronounce the most uncomfortal)le 
 of the year. Sickness is more prevalent at this time than at 
 any other. 
 
 But, taken as a whole, the average rainfall of the entire 
 country is small and confined to a very limited part of the 
 year. To obviate this difticulty, as far as possible, the gov- 
 ernment has aided the work of irriiiation. It has caused tlie 
 construction of over fifteen hundred miles of main canals, and 
 over six thousand miles of secondary channels, and private 
 effort has supplemented this to a very great extent. Through- 
 out the northern provinces this method must be resorted to in 
 order to secure a crop. 
 13 
 
GLANCING OVER INDIA. 
 
 HE main river system of India depends upon the 
 Himalayas for its supply. There are three magnifi- 
 cent rivers formed from this unfailing source. They 
 are the Indus in the west, and the Ganges and the 
 Brahmapootra in the north and east. The first of these empties 
 into the Arabian Sea. After its birth in the Himalayas, eight- 
 een thousand feet above the sea, it flows northwest for eight 
 hundred and seventy miles to near the extremity of the coun- 
 try, then, taking a sharp turn, it makes southwest in a practi- 
 cally straight course for nearly a thousand miles. During this 
 part of its course it runs parallel with, and near the boundary 
 line of, Afghanistan. The Indus is a historic stream whose 
 name is found in the earlier annals of our race. It abounds 
 with crocodiles, and as a navigable stream has scarcely any 
 value ; for though it conveys to the ocean a mighty volume of 
 water besides an annual supply of silt sufficient to form a body 
 of land forty-two by twenty-seven miles, and forty feet deep, 
 it cannot bear the burdens of commerce. For, after havinii' 
 received the water of several powerful tributaries, its basin be- 
 comes wide and flat, sweeping a broad path through a sandy 
 region. Soon its strength is divided ; schism arises in the fed- 
 eration, and various branches start out for themselves, taking 
 an independent course to the sea ; and thus the parent trunk 
 is soon left wnthout power or prestige. Truly, in union there 
 is strength. 
 
 [194] 
 
THE GANGES. • 195 
 
 How many societies, churches, families, yes, and individu- 
 als, there are who have in them the elements of strength and 
 the abilities to accomplish a great and good work ; but at the 
 point where usefulness should begin, distraction and division 
 come in, and in consequence they become as incompetent of 
 any real service to the world as is this great river. 
 
 The Brahmapootra rises and gathers its strength on the 
 northern slopes of the mountains, or rather, north of the south 
 range, and between the two great ranges which form the sys- 
 tem of mountains. It flows for more than eight hundred miles 
 through this valley in a southeasterly direction ; then turning 
 abruptly to the south, it breaks through the mountain wall, 
 and runs southwest across the eastern plains of India, to pour 
 its flood into the delta of the Ganges. 
 
 The Ganges is one of the most celebrated rivers in the 
 world. Its principal notoriety comes from the sacred venera- 
 tion in which it is held by the Hindu race. They call it by 
 the affectionate title of " Mai Ganga," or " Mother Ganges." 
 All three of India's great rivers have their sources in the same 
 region. The general course taken by the Ganges is south. 
 With its tributaries, it forms a magnificent water system in 
 northern India, which is of inestimable worth to the country 
 that would otherwise be parched and useless. For several 
 hundred miles the lower part of the river is utilized for the 
 purposes of commerce, though on account of the treacherous 
 nature of the channel large boats and steamers are not used. 
 But there are hundreds and thousands of small, clumsy boats 
 propelled by poles in the hands of natives, by rude sails, or, as 
 is often the case, by natives walking the shores and tugging at 
 a rope. The business done at Calcutta by this means repre- 
 sents a sum of more than a million dollars annually. Two or 
 three hundred miles from the sea the river begins to divide 
 into independent streams, which finally become a network of 
 
1§0 GLANCING OVER INDIA. 
 
 channels, crossing and rocrossing one another at every conceiv- 
 able angle, and all gradually making their way to the Bay of 
 Bengal. This delta covers an area of country about seventy- 
 five by one hundred and fifty miles in extent, and is called the 
 Sunderbunds. The whole region is a rich alluvial deposit. 
 The islands thus formed are covered by dense jungles in which 
 tigers, other fierce animals, and serpents dwell. The channels 
 are inhabited by alligators. But the government having done 
 much to have this section cleared up, it now supports a large 
 population ; for the soil is adapted to the production of rice, 
 indigo, and other commodities. The climate, as would be sup- 
 posed, is unhealthful, but in a country that is so crowded as 
 Bengal, people cannot be fastidious as to where they live. 
 
 The native people of India are ordinarily divided into two 
 classes, aboriginals and Aryan. In regard to the former it is 
 difficult to prove that the term is applied with strict propriety 
 to any of the various tribes which usually come under this 
 head. Neither history nor legend give us authentic testimony 
 in regard to their origin or identity. Among the earlier frag- 
 ments of Indian story that come to us from three thousand, 
 perhaps four thousand, years ago, we learn that an energetic 
 and fair-skinned people from the northwest came, through the 
 passes in the mountains, down upon the peaceable and mild in- 
 habitants of India, subdued the country, and became its rulers, 
 though they did not drive out or annihilate the original inhabit- 
 ants. This race of conquerors belongs to the Japhetic, or Aryan, 
 branch of the human family. Their forefathers were also the 
 progenitors of the Greeks and Romans, of the Teutons and the 
 Anglo Saxons. They were our forefathers. In the old San- 
 skrit language which they brought with them, we have evidence 
 of the consanguinity of the dominant Indian race and our own. 
 
 Having become attached to the country, society resolved 
 itself into four great classes, or castes. These were first, the 
 
CASTE. 197 
 
 Brahman?', or i)riest class ; second, the Rajput, or warrior 
 caste; third, the V^aisyas, or tillers of the soil ; and the Sudras, 
 or servile class. The first three belonging to the Aryan race, 
 honored themselves with the distinction of being " twice-born." 
 The Sadras were of the original inhabitants. They were of a 
 distinct and dark-skinned race. They, being l)ut "once born," 
 were regarded with great contempt by their superiors. This 
 was the beginning of that great system of caste which for ages 
 has held the people of India as in a cast-iron mold. The sys- 
 tem itself has broadened and strengthened in order to retain 
 its hold upon the people, until at present it is stated, on good 
 authority, that there are at least tliirtv thousand distinctions 
 of caste recognized in India. In the Brahman caste alone- 
 there are ten thousand. 
 
 The Brahmans became philosophers and students of art and 
 science. The standard grammar of the Sanskrit language dates 
 from more than five hundred years before Christ. Their phi- 
 losophy is older than that of Greece or Rome, and in many re- 
 spects superior. Their civilization antedates the birth of the 
 Anglo Saxon race by many more centuries than have elapsed 
 since our race was born. The Brahmans point with great pride 
 to their ancestry, and repudiate with scorn the epithet of 
 "heathen" when applied to them. 
 
 The religions of India are many and diverse, but in this 
 sketch we shall notice but a few, which, on account of their 
 prominence, require mention. And just now we shall not stop 
 long with this, for we are soon to get nearer views of the things 
 of everyday life in which, from time to time, the religion of the 
 people will attract our attention. Hinduism, the leading and 
 most ancient reliaion, numbers as its votaries over one hun- 
 dred and eighty-eight million. The Mohammedans have fifty 
 million, and the two taken together comprise ninet3'-four per 
 cent of the entire population of the country. 
 
198 GLANCING OVER INDIA. 
 
 The Hindus recognize a triad of supreme deities besides an 
 innumerable class of secondary gods. From their most ancient 
 writings we gather the idea that the first objects of worship 
 were the forces of nature. But in these things the Creator 
 himself is revealed. It requires no extraordinary degree of 
 astuteness to perceive that beyond nature there is a primary 
 cause ; that natural objects are but the creatures of a divine 
 power, whose harmonious actions show the unity of that power. 
 The Brahman philosophers discerning this creative power, gave 
 to it the name of Brahm. But they did not follow this ray of 
 light. They worshiped him not as God, but turning their de- 
 votions to other conceptions, they thus worshiped the creature. 
 
 Brahm is regarded as little else than an abstraction. His 
 worship is but rarely observed, there being in all India but 
 two or three temples devoted to that purpose. Associated 
 with Brahm are Vishnu the preserver, and Siva the destroyer. 
 The worship of the former is cheerful. In his capacity as a 
 saviour of his people he has passed nine incarnations, in each 
 of which he worked out some scheme for temporal salvation. 
 In his last mission to earth he is known as Krishna. It is 
 said that the Hindus cherish the expectation of one more visit 
 to earth by this god, at which time he will restore his people, 
 and establish his kingdom. 
 
 In this character we have one of Satan's counterfeits of the 
 true Saviour of mankind. All men are brought to feel their 
 need of divine interposition, of a saving power that does not 
 originate in human weakness ; hence it is the work of the 
 enemy to see that this want is supplied by a fraud, which in 
 many respects must resemble the true. Our Saviour is from 
 heaven. He has taken upon himself man's nature, and lived 
 and died for us. He is coming again. He will at that time 
 raise the dead who sleep in him. He will take to himself his 
 power and reign, and of his kingdom there will be no end. 
 
HINDU DEITIES. 199 
 
 Many true-hearted Christians believe that this event is draw- 
 ing near, and the Hindus, too, are now looking for the return of 
 their king. It does seem that the truth of Jesus' second com- 
 ing would be readily received by this people who entertain 
 such ideas. But on the other hand, this near approach to the 
 truth is often the most dangerous of delusions, because those 
 who hold such view^s are with great difficulty convinced of the 
 necessity of the truth. 
 
 Siva is feared. His worship is frequently gruesome, and 
 always austere. In his character he embraces the reproduc- 
 tiA^e faculties as v;ell as those of destruction. Consequently 
 the worship of animals is associated with him. It is more nat- 
 ural for us to fear calamities than to court favors. That is, if 
 some power will ward off the evils of life, and preserve us in 
 health and prosperity, we will look out for the blessings. Pro- 
 ceeding upon this principle, the Hindus venerate Siva far more 
 than either of his consorts. Hunter's history of the Indian 
 people thus concisely describes this famous and hideous mon- 
 strosity : — 
 
 " Siva, at once the destroyer and reproducer, represented 
 profound philosophical doctrines, and was early recognized as 
 being in a special sense the god of the Brahmans. To them he 
 was the symbol of death as merely a change of life. On the 
 other hand, his terrible aspects, preserved in his long list of 
 names, from the Roarer (Rudra) of the Veda to the Dread One 
 (Bhima) of the modern Hindu pantheon, well adapted him to 
 the religion of fear prevalent among the ruder non-Aryan races. 
 
 '' Siva, in his two-fold character, thus became the deit}^ 
 alike of the highest and of the low^est castes. He is the 
 ^lahd-deva, or great god of modern Hinduism ; and his wife is" 
 Devi, pre-eminently ihc goddess. His universal symbol is 
 the linga, or emblem of reproduction ; his sacred beast, the 
 bull, is connected with the same idea ; a trident tops his tem- 
 
[200] 
 
 KUTAB MiNAK, 
 
 An Historical Tower near Delhi. 
 
MOHAMMEDANISM. ' 201 
 
 pies. His images partake of his double nature. The Brah- 
 manical conception of Siva is represented by his attitude as a 
 fair-skinned man, seated in profound thought, the symbol of 
 the fertilizing Ganges above his head, and the bull (emblem 
 alike of procreation and of Aryan plow-tillage) near at hand. 
 The wilder non-Aryan aspects of his character are signified by 
 his necklace of skulls, his collar of twining serpents, his tiger- 
 skin, and his club with a human head at the end, Siva has 
 five faces and four arms. His wife, in like manner, appears in 
 her Aryan or Brahmanical form as Uma, ' light,' a gentle god- 
 dess and the type of high-born loveliness ; in her composite 
 character as Durga, a golden-colored woman, beautiful but 
 menacing, riding on a tiger ; and in her terrible non-Aryan 
 aspects as Kali, a black fury of a hideous countenance, drip- 
 ping with blood, crowned with snakes, and hung round with 
 skulls." 
 
 Mohammedanism had its rise in Arabia, early in the 
 seventh century. Before it was a hundred years old, it was 
 carried by conquest into Sind, the northwest province of India. 
 Subsequent to 1000 a. d. a strong tide of Islamism set in 
 toward India, and for a long time nearly submerged Hinduism, 
 though it never subdued or conquered it. In Southern India 
 Hinduism always predominated ; but as we proceed to the 
 other extremity of the country, we find even at the present 
 day Mohammedan influences continually becoming stronger ; 
 and by the time we reach Delhi the predominance is in favor 
 of the Mussulman. Not a very amicable spirit exists between 
 the two parties, whose hatred and jealousy not infrequently 
 break out in bloodshed and violence. 
 
 By repeated invasions and conquests from 714 a. d. to the 
 middle of the sixteenth century, jMohammedan power was 
 greatly increased in India, though after each onslaught Hindu- 
 ism would recover nearly all that it had lost by the remarkable 
 
202 ■ GLANCING OVER INDIA. 
 
 vitality which it possessed. Among these invasions the one 
 of Timoor the Tartar, or Tamerhme, is perhaps the most noted 
 in history. He was the first of the famous Moghuls. After 
 his conquest of the country, he returned to Central Asia, and 
 Hinduism soon filled again its usual place. But in 1526, 
 Babar, a direct descendant of Timoor, overran India with an 
 irresistible force, and established the Moghul empire, which 
 extended to the Gangetic delta. But the Arabs, who had 
 long lived in India, hated the new conquerors more than the 
 Hindus, and after the death of Babar, drove his son and suc- 
 cessor back into Asia. But the next in the Moohul line was 
 the celebrated Akbar. He was born in 1542, and in his four- 
 teenth year led the army of his fjither to decisive victory, and 
 regained for him the throne of Delhi. He is regarded as the 
 real founder of the Moghul empire. By conquest, but more 
 by the wise policy of conciliation, he carried his power into 
 Southern India. His grandson. Shah Jahan, who reigned after 
 an interval of twenty-two years from the death of Akbar, 
 imitating the great emperor in prowess and wisdom, extended 
 the dominion to the south. He was the famous builder whose 
 work we shall have opportunity to examine later on. 
 
 As before stated, the Buddhists form no considerable por- 
 tion of the population of the country. But the Jains, whose 
 principal center of numbers and worship is at Mount Abu, in 
 Rajputana, Western India, are an off-shoot of that ancient 
 religion, and retain much of the same forms of worship and be- 
 lief. They number, according to the last census, about one 
 hundred and twenty-two millions. Of Christians, real and 
 nominal, there are, it is said, one million, seven hundred and 
 fifty thousand. Of Parsees, there are eighty-five thousand, 
 seven eighths of whom live in Bombny. 
 
JOURNEY RESUMED. 
 
 HE Sunday bazaar in Darjeeling is one of the sights 
 of India. On that day the tea-pickers from the sur- 
 rounding phmtations are at liberty. Tea-gardens 
 cover the hills in eA'ery direction. The pickers are 
 mostly people of the hills, from the various tribes of Lepchas 
 
 ^, 
 
 Bhutias, and Ghoorkas. These are strong, vigorous races, dis- 
 tinguished from those of the plains by their robust figures and 
 active motions. Having received their pay for the week, they 
 come to purchase their supplies, and to invest a few coppers in 
 whatever may please them. Supplies are brought in by Thib- 
 etans, Mongolians, and Indians from the plains. From every 
 mountain path streams of people emerge, until by noon there 
 is a surging mass of humanity numbering many thousands, fill- 
 ing the central portion of the town. 
 
 To one standing upon the hillside above the crowd, the 
 sound of their voices comes up like the sound of many waters. 
 As we mingle with the throng, we meet men and women from 
 every nation, — white, black, brown, and yellow in color; and 
 on that day there was at least one "green" man there, for I 
 had never seen such a motley crowd of people, each one dressed 
 in the style peculiar to his country. And these were outdone 
 in point of strangeness by the curious trinkets and articles use- 
 ful and otherwise, which they exposed for sale. 
 
 The climate of Darjeeling is salubrious, the temperature in 
 summer not rising above eighty, nor descending below thirty- 
 five in winter. There are many desirable places of residence 
 
 [ 203 ] 
 
204 JOURNEY RESUMED. 
 
 among the foot-hills of the mountains, where a semi-tropical 
 climate may be enjoyed ; where numerous ever-flowing streams 
 of purest water from the snows above come tumbling down the 
 mountain-sides ; where trees, plants, fruits, and flowers of 
 every variety grow in luxuriance. After spending a few days 
 in this delightful place, I almost dreaded to return to the heat 
 and bustle of the city. But time was pressing, and I had yet 
 far to go. 
 
 As we glide along over the level plains toward Calcutta, let 
 us take glimpses of the lowly Indian life which we see on every 
 hand. India is emphatically an agricultural country. That 
 this must be so is apparent when we consider the vast popula- 
 tion which the land is called upon to support. Here in Ben- 
 gal, taking the cities and country together, there are nearly 
 five hundred people to the square mile, all of whom have to be 
 supplied from this small area of soil, for the Indian is not an 
 importer of food. 
 
 For economy of land, as well as for mutual protection, the 
 houses of the farmers are gathered in villages. These are 
 clustered as compactly together as possible, so that to form a 
 house, three walls are all that will have to be built, and in some 
 cases not so many. The material consists either of clear mud 
 or of mud mixed with straw and dried in the sun. The walls 
 are a foot in thickness, and without windows. The roof is 
 thatched or covered with bamboo leaves. The houses are 
 without floors, and almost without furniture. In the latter 
 line, a woman could easily take on her back or under her arm 
 the ordinary outfit of her home. For chairs and tables they 
 have no use. In some cases a low, square frame lashed with 
 strips of bamboo or leather serves for a bed at night and a sit- 
 ting-place by day, but these are limited in number and are con- 
 sidered luxuries rather than necessities. The usual bed is a 
 piece of matting upon a little bank of clay across one side of the 
 
FARMING. 205 
 
 one room of the house, or more likely upon the ground in front 
 of the abode. There are thousands of such houses as these 
 not onl}^ in the country villages, or '*■ bustis," but in Calcutta, 
 Bombay, and all the other cities. It is probably safe to say 
 that three quarters of the people of India live in no better 
 houses than those just described. 
 
 The land is generally cultivated in small parcels, each man's 
 lot being divided by boundaries which to a casual observer are 
 invisible. Large fields of ghendri, sugar-cane, and rice, or 
 "paddy," covering sometimes hundreds of acres, stretch away 
 on the plains, and they seem almost alive with men and women 
 who are carefully cultivating the growing crops. Much of the 
 labor bestowed is spent in irrigation. For this purpose the 
 water is elevated out of the ditches by various rude devices 
 into small channels which overflow the soil. Perhaps the most 
 common method is for two men or women to swing a basket 
 between them, suspended by ropes. The operators stand about 
 twelve feet apart, and dextrously keep the basket in motion, 
 scooping it full of water, and emptying it upon the land after 
 raising it two or three feet. 
 
 Cattle are numerous, but of the small and hump-shouldered 
 variety peculiar to the country. In shows and zoological 
 gardens they are styled the " sacred cattle of India." They 
 are nothing more than. the ordinary cattle, though the speci- 
 mens are generally larger than the average. The cows have 
 small udders, and yield only a quart or two at a milking. 
 Through ages they have degenerated until they are almost 
 worthless. Goats are plenty, but horses are scarce except in 
 the cities, where a few are used for gharries and other car- 
 riages. But even in this vocation, they have a formidable 
 rival in the agile little bullocks, which, hitched to their jaunty 
 carts, will usually outstrip the horses. For burdens, oxen or 
 donkeys are employed. 
 
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POVERTY. 207 
 
 The agricultural implements are of the most primitive kind. 
 They are the wooden point and prong for a plow, and the 
 same threshing instruments and harrow that are seen in old 
 Bible pictures. Oxen tread out the corn, and women grind at 
 the mill just as they did in those countries four thousand 
 years ago. In the cities are large mills where scores of 
 women are employed in grinding meal for the market ; and it 
 is really surprising to witness the proficiency of such rude 
 means in the hands of the simple natives. The meal may be 
 had of any degree of fineness desired, and it is ground as even 
 and true as our modern mills can do it. About sixty pounds' 
 weight of fine meal is a day's work for two women. 
 
 Some have had the impression that India is a land of 
 wealth, — that pearls and riches may almost be picked up. 
 On the contrary, it is a land of poverty and destitution. It is 
 stated, upon^ood authority, that there are fifty million people 
 in that country who never have had their hunger satisfied. 
 There appears to be, sad to say, no reason to doubt the state- 
 ment. The ordinary wages of the working man is about ten 
 cents a day. It is more frequently less, than more, than that. 
 Women working at the mill, or carrying hod or stone on build- 
 ings, or doing navvy work on railways get three to five cents a 
 day. And upon these pittances families must be supported. 
 There are many, of course, who cannot obtain work even at 
 those prices. From such an income, it will be seen that there 
 is no chance to procure anything more than the bare necessi- 
 ties of existence. This does not leave much to lay out upon 
 clothing or furniture. The household utensils usually consist 
 of a metal platter, from which the family eat in common, and 
 a few brazen jars or earthen water-pots. 
 
 In a country where rice is raised in great quantities, and 
 where there are much cheaper varieties than the white rice 
 which we purchase, many cannot afford to eat even the cheap- 
 
208 JOURNEY RESUMED. 
 
 est qualities. In such cases millet meal, or the meal of what 
 is called ghendri, a seed that grows like broom-corn and is very 
 prolific, is taken as a material for bread. Sometimes the seed 
 is eaten raw or roasted, but generally it is ground into meal, 
 and either boiled, or made into thin cakes with water, and 
 baked. This, with a few cheap vegetables, forms the sole sub- 
 sistence of a great many families. In other cases rice is ob- 
 tained and dried fish occasionally. The man eats first; and if 
 there is anything left, the women and children have it. 
 
 Forks and knives are unknown. The food is taken with 
 the fingers. Rice is generally eaten with a vegetable curry, 
 or dressing, rendered pungent by various condiments. The 
 two are thoroughly mixed with the fingers, then rolled into 
 little balls by the thumb and two fingers of the right hand, 
 and deftly tossed into the mouth, for the hand must not touch 
 the lips. 
 
 Hotel life in India is not unpleasant in some respects. 
 There are, upon all the routes of popular travel, hostelries 
 kept as nearly after the English style as circumstances will 
 permit. A few years ago dependence was mainly upon what 
 are called " dak bun2i;alows." Bungalow is the term for house, 
 and is now applied to the, residences of Europeans. "Dak" 
 (pronounced dawk) means a stage of a journey, that is, a day's 
 travel. These places were built by the government, and left 
 in chnrsxe of a servant, who let rooms to travelers at a nominal 
 sum. As the traveler furnished his own bed, and generally 
 his own food, he needed only shelter. But if he needed food, 
 it was furnished at a small additional sum by the men in 
 charge. 
 
 These bungalows are still maintained in some cities, and 
 form very quiet and desirable places to stop. But at the 
 hotels there is a large force of servants employed, and the 
 wants of the guest are carefully attended to. The servants 
 
SERVAXTS. 
 
 209 
 
 are men, and as they wear no shoes, they glide noiselessly in 
 and about the rooms. They become particularly attentive 
 about the time the guest is to leave, when one finds himself 
 the recipient of many honors in the way of polite salaams. 
 The easiest way out of the difficulty is to go to the clerk, 
 hand him a couple of rupees with instructions to divide it up, 
 and so let him settle the matter. Otherwise the servants do 
 not hesitate to besiege the carriage as you drive away, insist- 
 ing upon being "remembered." 
 
 These servants are kind, docile, and obliging, and for one I 
 acknowledge that I felt a strong sympathy for them, and a de- 
 sire to see them benefited. It is very customary to see no- 
 tices in the rooms and corridors to the effect that " guests are 
 requested not to strike the servants." But this does not pre- 
 vent their getting many kicks and cuffs from white men who 
 have far more temper than sense of right, or any other kind of 
 sense. The poor servants take these things meekly, and still 
 trv to do their best. 
 
 "Women Grinding. 
 
 14 
 
IN AND ABOUT CALCUTTA. 
 
 r^N Calcutta there is enough to be seen to employ one's 
 time for many clays. The bazaars and markets are 
 places of interest. In the city there are fewer temples 
 of great renown than in others which we shall visit. 
 Six miles from the city is the famous Kali ghat (gawt), where 
 is located the temple of Kali, the black and terrible wife of 
 Siva. My visit to this gruesome place was made just at night- 
 fall. A line of street-cars runs out to the place, and it was 
 their annoying sluggishness that made my arrival so late. 
 
 I found myself in a disgusting scene of filth and blood, sur- 
 rounded by vicious-looking priests and worshipers, and entirely 
 without a guide or a friend. I arrived at the hour when the 
 temple was closed to give the idol a chance to take a nap ; at 
 the end of that time she was awakened, and the orgies began. 
 Goats and other victims are slain to appease her wrath. Thou- 
 sands of pilgrims from all India throng this awful shrine from 
 day to day, and in times past, human victims have been sacri- 
 ficed to the bloody deity. Her image is as black as night ; 
 she wears a necklace of human skulls ; in her left hand she 
 holds a reeking skull by the hair, and in her right the im23le- 
 ments of destruction and death. To make the picture more 
 horrid her tongue protrudes and rests upon her breast. 
 
 Such is the object before which millions of our fellow-be- 
 ings to-day are bowing in abject fear, and to which they are 
 making offerings to appease her wrath and avert calamities. 
 It was with a great sense of relief that I left this place, dimly 
 
 [210] 
 
DEVOTEES. 
 
 211 
 
 lighted with lamps, 
 and reeking witli 
 the blood and filth 
 of heathendom. At 
 times the worshi}) 
 of this goddess is 
 pollnted not only 
 with physical but 
 with moral filth. 
 
 When leaving 
 the place, I met 
 a religious devotee 
 crawling upon his 
 hands and knees 
 toward the temple, 
 and was told that 
 he had come fur 
 hundreds of miles 
 in that way to show 
 his devotion. This 
 class of men is 
 A^ery celebrated for 
 their piety, which ^^ Fakir. 
 
 is shown chiefly by the most severe forms of painful penance. 
 They may be seen sitting or standing with one or both arms 
 held straight upward, in which position these members have 
 been held until they become as rigid and dry as a stick. For 
 perhajis fifteen or twenty years these arms have never been 
 moved from that position. Others wear iron collars around 
 their necks, from which long branches protrude, preventing 
 their lying down. Some will sit for years upon a pillar from 
 which they never come down. I saw them sitting in the mud 
 of the Ganges with no 'other clothing on than a thick coat 
 
> 
 
 Q 
 
 a 
 a 
 o 
 < 
 
 CO 
 
 a 
 
 
 
WORSHIPING THE RIVER. 213 
 
 of clay ; and there they will sit for months, admired and 
 worshiped by the credulous j^eople who attribute almost divine 
 honor to such devotion. 
 
 These characters are called " fakirs." Many of them are 
 men of thought and education, so far as their heathen philoso- 
 phy can be said to educate the mind. They reason with great 
 volubility on the virtue of their works, and reject with scorn 
 any intimation that their sacrifice has no merit for the cleans- 
 ing of sin. It is the old doctrine of salvation by works wrought 
 out to its ultimate conclusion, which mav be seen in the asceti- 
 cism of monkery and the penances of the Catholic Church. 
 Any attempt at working out salvation, or obtaining it in any 
 other way than by the grace and mercy of God through Christ, 
 will only sink the individual deeper in the mire of human help- 
 lessness. Obedience to God's law is the correct criterion of 
 righteousness, but this can be wrought in us only by the power 
 of faith, and through the merits of Him in whose righteousness 
 alone it is possible for us ever to be made perfect. 
 
 The most interestinji: scenes in Calcutta are to be witnessed 
 on the banks of the sacred river which flows bv the western 
 portion of the city. For miles the banks are composed of 
 bathing glials (steps), whither, early in the morning, tens of 
 thousands of devoted worshipers throng to wash away their 
 sins in the waters of " Mother Ganfires." It is an interesting 
 sight to see men and women thus engaged, some in sport and 
 others in devotion. Upon the banks sit the priests with pots 
 of paint, ready to mark the bathers as they emerge, with the 
 sign of the god whom they particularly espouse. These marks 
 consist of small dots or stripes of paint upon their forehead or 
 right arm. They offer an oblation of water at the foot of the 
 sacred bo-tree, or at some of the shrines which abound in 
 the vicinity, and return to their homes bearing a little cruse of 
 the sacred water. 
 

 A 
 
BURNING THE DEAD. 215 
 
 Not far from the great bridge which crosses the river to the 
 city of Howrah, is a burning ghat where the Hindu dead are 
 disposed of. It is a small inclosure measuring perhaps one 
 hundred feet by forty in size. Through the middle a row of 
 fires is kept burning nearly all the time, for on the average, 
 not less than sixty bodies are consumed here every day. At 
 the time of my visit, there were four fires in different stages of 
 burning. At one place a woman was stoically poking the 
 remains of a half-burned body which, we were told, was the 
 remains of her little girl. At the farther end a funeral pyre 
 was in preparation. The w^ood was in readiness, and the corpse 
 of a young wife lay upon a stretcher beside it. The husband 
 was being shaven of every hair upon his head except a small 
 scalp-lock which the Brahman never loses. This being done, 
 the corpse was carried to the water and washed, its clothing 
 changed, and after immersion in the sacred river, returned to 
 the altar and placed thereon. Wood was added until the body 
 was entirely covered. Dry rushes and kindling material had 
 been placed beneath the wood ; and w^hen all w^as ready, the 
 husband took a bunch of long, dry reeds, which he lighted at 
 the sacred fire kept for the purpose. Holding the fire over 
 the body, he passed several times swiftly around the pile, 
 then thrust the blaze into the kindlino, and the whole mass 
 was soon afire. The terrible sights and W'Orse smells having 
 by this time thoroughly demoralized nerves and stomach, a 
 hasty retreat was necessary. 
 
 During all the time, a voluble priest was extolling the ex- 
 cellences of the Hindu system to the disparagement of the 
 Christian religion. I asked how it was possible for the 
 mother and the husband to perform such tasks with so little 
 manifestation of feeling. The reply was that the souls having 
 immediately left the bodies after death, Avere now visiting 
 other realms, and would soon inhabit other creatures. Indeed, 
 
'216 IN AND ABOUT CALCUTTA. 
 
 the whole system rests largely upon the doctrine of metempsy- 
 chosis, or transmigration of souls. The ordinary Hindu be- 
 lieves that there are several million transformations throuirh 
 which he must pass, before he Vv'ill be absorbed into deity, 
 though by meritorious acts the journey is greatly shortened. 
 
 Evil spirits and good spirits act a very prominent part in 
 all the affairs of life. All these being representatives of gods, 
 they become the real objects of worship. Thus through de- 
 monology, spiritualism, transmigration, and various other mani- 
 festations, the dogma of the immortality of the soul con- 
 tributes to this great deception, as indeed it does to nearly 
 every other system of error, the foundation and substance of 
 superstitious beliefs. The counterpart of modern Spiritualism 
 is found in those oriental religions. It is the evident work 
 of Satan with signs and lying wonders. 
 
 The only sure antidote for such deadly poison, either in 
 heathen or in Christian countries, is the great truth of immor- 
 tality and eternal life through faith in Jesus Christ alone. 
 When man fell from the favor of God, he lost his right to the 
 tree of life and to immortality. Cherubim guarded the way 
 to that life-giving tree, lest man should put forth his hand and 
 take of the tree of life, eat, and live forever. Then the gospel 
 of salvation and eternal life through Christ was revealed, in 
 which we are taught that he that hath the Son of God hath 
 eternal life, and without him there is no life. The Bible 
 plainly teaches that the dead know not anything ; that death 
 is a sleep ; that the grave is a state of utter unconsciousness. 
 Therefore, every form of error built upon the existence of dis- 
 embodied spirits falls hopelessly to the ground. If men would 
 believe this great truth, nine tenths of all the superstition 
 and error in religion would disappear. 
 
 But we are not, therefore, to conclude that there is no im- 
 mortality ; that eternal life is a myth. It is a glorious reality. 
 
CALCUTTA. 217 
 
 The apostle Paul tells us that to those who by patient continu- 
 ance in well-doing seek for immortality, eternal life will at last 
 be rendered. And again we are told that this will be be- 
 stowed at the second appearing of Christ. " We shall all be 
 changed in a moment, in the twinkling of an eye, at the last 
 trump ; for the trump shall sound, and the dead shall be raised 
 incorruptible, and we shall be changed. For this corruptible 
 must put on incorruption, and this mortal must put on immor- 
 tality." It is to the resurrection then that we must look for 
 immortality. The Bible never attributes the principle of an 
 immortal existence to man in his present condition, and the 
 Scriptures are totally against the idea of conscious existence 
 between death and the resurrection. Having accepted this 
 testimony, there is no room left for the vagaries of heathenism, 
 and no foundation for the great majority of the errors of the 
 Christian world. 
 
 Right in the center of Calcutta is a beautiful little park 
 called Dalhousie Square, which contains a large tank, or reser- 
 voir, of water. Around and near this are the government 
 offices. On the west is a general post-office, one of the finest 
 and most prominent buildings in the city ; while extending 
 across the north side is the Secretariat, or office of the secre- 
 tar}^ of state, a fine structure of stone. 
 
 A few blocks south of Dalhousie Square is the Maidan, a 
 very large open common, bounded by prominent streets and 
 traversed by fine drives. Upon the east runs Chowringha 
 Road, upon which is located the national museum, one of the 
 most celebrated institutions of the East. Its vast halls are 
 filled with treasures of antiquity illustrative of oriental 
 history. The view on page 191 is taken from the Maidan. 
 
 Adjacent to the Maidan are the Eden Gardens, the most 
 beautiful within the city limits. In the center is a quaint ohl 
 pagoda of carved wood. On the Howrah side of the river, and 
 
< 
 
 5 
 
 -X 
 
 < 
 
 
 X 
 
 1 11 
 
SIGHTS IN CALCUTTA. 219 
 
 three or four miles below, is the famous Botanical Garden. 
 The principal attraction here to the stranger will probably be 
 a great banyan tree, said to be one hundred years old, and 
 having the shape of a great, round pavilion. The ground it 
 covers is eight hundred and fifty feet in circumference. It is 
 forty-five feet around the main trunk. There are thousands 
 of branch ti'unks extending from the limbs to the ground, 
 where they take root. These trees are common in India, 
 though this is the largest one I saw. 
 
 The Zoological Garden, on the opposite side of the river, 
 presents a very large collection from the animal world. This 
 is particularly true of the reptile and the monkey departments. 
 There are many venomous serpents in the country, the most 
 dreaded being the cobra, whose bite causes death in a very 
 short time. As the feet of the natives are not protected, they 
 are very liable to be bitten, and each year many thousands 
 are victims to these reptiles. 
 
 In Calcutta and vicinity several very pleasant acquaint- 
 ances were made with missionary people, who receive stran- 
 gers with the utmost kindness. Among those in the city were 
 Mr. Messmore, editor of the Indian Witness, imt\ Mr. Conklin, 
 manager of the Methodist Episcopal publisliing Avork. The 
 work of the American Methodists and baptists has been very 
 successful, especially for the last few years and among the 
 lower castes. The former denomination occupies the northern 
 central provinces principally, and the Baptists are working in 
 the provinces south of Calcutta. 
 
 A few miles out of the city, at Dum Dum, was the home of 
 Mr. J. R. Brodhead, superintendent of the Wesleyan mission 
 for the Bengal district. The kindness of this gentleman and 
 his wife could hardly be exceeded by an own Itrother. In his 
 company, a ver}^ pleasant Sabbath was spent. I also accom- 
 panied him to a native camp-meeting, which was a unique 
 
220 J^"^ ^^ND ABOUT CALCUTTA. 
 
 affair. The princij^al iont ronsisted of a motley collection of 
 cloths, which gave only a partial shelter from the sun, for of 
 rain there was no danger. Near by stood a dwelling or two 
 and a few other fiimily tents. Upon matting, in the center of 
 the tent, sat the master of ceremonies, a convert to Chris- 
 tianity who had been a hard character in the past. He played 
 a violin. About him were other violinists, or "fiddlers" per- 
 haps, and a tom-tom. This latter is a small drum, beaten by 
 the hand and fingers, and the two heads are strung to a differ- 
 ent pitch, giving the music (?) a weird character. This 
 instrument is very much admired in India, and is everywhere 
 heard in temples and processions. A fine class of girls from 
 Mr. Brodhead's training school joined in singing with the 
 leader. After singing a verse, or perhaps in the midst of a 
 stanza, the song would be broken off by a speech or exhorta- 
 tion by the leader. And as suddenly the remarks would 
 cease, and the singing be resumed. The missionaries sitting 
 near, w^atched the exercises, and from time to time spoke such 
 words as would give the proper turn to the meeting. This 
 was kept up nearly all day and into the night. Early in the 
 day there were perhaps fifty present, but later the people 
 gathered in quite large numbers. 
 
 Here I met Mr. J. A. McDonald, secretary and editor for 
 the Christian Literature Society. These devoted missionaries 
 related many interesting particulars of their experiences. 
 Mr. Brodhead went to India without friends or money. Be- 
 ginning his missionary work without a home, he took up his 
 abode under a spreading tree, and there remained until he was 
 found and taken in by an English police officer who gave him a 
 home. It was through this gentleman. Colonel Lacy, now of 
 Ilobart, Tasmania, a personal friend, that an acquaintance with 
 these Christian workers was formed. For seven years, Mr. 
 Mc Donald labored without seeing a soul embrace the Chris- 
 
CANDID DISHONESTY. 221 
 
 tian religion. And when at last all support was about to be 
 withdrawn from what seemed to be a fruitless field, in answer 
 to earnest prayer success began to dawn, and now a large 
 number have been raised up in what was once a stronghold of 
 iniquity. 
 
 Some missionaries and many visitors to India become dis- 
 gusted at what seems to be the incorrigible nature of the 
 natives. One is apt to form the opinion that they are all liars 
 and thieves, and perhaps he would not lay himself liable to 
 prosecution for libel if he said that they are such. But we 
 have already observed that those people have not been edu- 
 cated according to our standard of morality. It is quite true 
 that to their minds the harm in stealing consists in getting 
 caught ; and as for the harm in lying, they have not discov- 
 ered it. Even after it is told them, it takes time and patience 
 to inculcate the doctrine that honesty is the best policy. It is 
 not taken as an insult if one of them is called a liar ; it never 
 excites more than a smile of acquiescence. A missionary con- 
 nected with a school related that upon one occasion a student 
 came to him, showing by his countenance that he had a seri- 
 ous grievance. He reported that a fellow-student had called 
 him a liar. The teacher treated the offense lightly, remarking 
 that it was no matter since that was a very common thing 
 among them. "Yes," said the young man; "but he called 
 me a liar in English." That w\'is another thing to his mind. 
 If a servant be sent out to obtain change for a bank-note, very 
 likely he will be an anna or two short; and when told of it, he 
 simply unrolls the coin from a corner of his garment and hands 
 it over without any show of compunction or shame. At the 
 same time your house, or watch, or purse would be perfectly 
 safe in their keeping. 
 
UP THE GANGES VALLEY. 
 
 ,OL^R hundred and fifteen miles up the river from Cal- 
 cutta is the city of Benares with a population of 
 two hundred thousand. It is the Mecca of Hindu- 
 ism. The city contains three thousand Hindu temples 
 and shrines. Thousands of aged persons come here to spend 
 the remnant of their days, that they may die upon the sacred 
 banks of " Mother Ganges." Among other temples is the 
 famous Monkey Temple a short distance out of the city. It is 
 so named from the monkeys that swarm the trees and the sur- 
 rounding walls. They expect to be fed at the expense of every 
 visitor, and become rather impudent if this is not done. A 
 few handfuls of rice or orain will satisfv them. 
 
 The building is not a remarkable one among its class. It 
 is built of red sandstone, and consists of a wall enclosing a 
 tank of water, or bathing place, and the temple proper. This 
 structure is about thirty feet square at the base, and tapers to 
 a point fifty feet high, in pagoda style. Within the building 
 is the image, a gaudy, ill-conceived object. Before the door 
 is a raised platform of stone, on which the worshipers con- 
 gregate. 
 
 The Cow Temple attracts especial attention. I was per- 
 mitted to stand in the door, and that satisfied me ; for the 
 place is filthy with the presence of the sacred bovines, which 
 seem to enjoy life above the average of their class. Many 
 women to whom the privilege of bearing sons has been denied, 
 resort here to pray devoutly for that blessing. 
 
 [222] 
 
Pi 
 
224 UP THE GANGES VALLEY. 
 
 The Golden Temple, in the center of the city, is a much 
 more interesting place. It consists of a large group of tem- 
 ples dedicated to different gods. The principal one, devoted 
 to Siva, has a dome and tower covered with plates of 
 beaten gold, very thin of course, and yet apparently genuine. 
 The worship is carried on beneath, access to which is denied 
 all unbelievers. The privilege of looking through a small 
 opening in the stone wall was given, and revealed a strange 
 scene of heathen activity and devotion. This group of tem- 
 ples is approached only by narrow, dark passages. Here was 
 a temple to Krishna, one to the monkey god, another to the 
 sacred bull, and so forth through a long list. 
 
 This is one of Satan's headquarters. Here he holds undis- 
 puted sway amid a countless throng of willing votaries. Being 
 alone, I felt uneasy, as I was jostled about and often glared 
 upon by priests and fanatics, until looking behind, I saw a 
 policeman following. In the center of this nest of Hinduism, 
 the conqueror Aurangzeb erected a Mohammedan mosque, 
 doubtless as an insult to the Hindu faith. It may be a ques- 
 tion as to which are the more uncomfortable, the mosque peo- 
 ple or their uncongenial neighbors. 
 
 Perhaps the most sacred of all these sacred spots is the 
 holy Well of Wisdom where Siva is said to live. This well 
 is about twelve feet in diameter and twenty feet in depth. 
 The worshipers are constantly throwing into it offerings of 
 rice and marigolds. The putrid water, thick with decaying 
 flowers and rice, is prized as the nectar of the gods. The 
 place is a hot-bed of cholera. 
 
 The most interesting sight in Benares is to be obtained on 
 the river in the early part of the day. The city is wholly 
 built on the north side of the Ganges, and its bank is crowded 
 with palaces and temples, while numerous ghats for bathing 
 and burning, lead down to the water. The scene is unbroken 
 
The < idi.DK.N Temple, Bexakes. (See page 222.) [22.")] 
 
 15 
 
22C) UF THE GANGES VALLEY. 
 
 lor (wo miles or move. Many of the principal rulers and great 
 men of India have palaces here, where they and their house- 
 holds may freely enjoy the benefits of the sacred waters. 
 The devout hathei's pray and wash at the same time. Taking 
 a boat we slowly floated down the stream, passing near this 
 most novel scene. Midway we landed, and visited the mosque 
 which the conquering Mussulmans built here, and which, as at 
 the Golden Temple, is a stumbling-block to the Hindus. Its 
 lofty minarets rise more than two hundred feet above the 
 river, from the top of one of which we enjoyed a fine view of 
 the city. The shaft being but eight feet in diameter, a pecul- 
 iar sensation attends this apparent suspension in mid-air. A 
 carriage could not approach within half a mile of this mosque, 
 so densely are the houses, palaces, and temples packed to- 
 gether. 
 
 A short distance up the river from Benares is Allahabad 
 (the city of Allah, or God). It is at the junction of the sacred 
 river Jumna with the more sacred Ganges, and is a most cele- 
 brated rendezvous upon certain occasions. The city itself is a 
 place of considerable learning, and possesses many fine resi- 
 dences belonging to Europeans and other wealthy classes. It 
 is also a railway center of some importance. Fifteen miles 
 from it stands the little village of Manauri, where a pause was 
 made at the hospitable home of L. Porter, Esq., superintend- 
 ent of the large oil mills of the East India Railway Company. 
 Their oils for lubrication and illumination are made from the 
 castor bean, and in the manufacture of this produce, with 
 varnish, paint, soap, etc., over five hundred hands are kept 
 employed. Here was an excellent opportunity to study the 
 simple village life of the poorer classes. Mr. Porter is looked 
 up to with almost filial regard by the little village whose peo- 
 ple have learned of his kindness in many ways. Happy would 
 it be for India if all European overseers were thus kind. 
 
CAWNPORE. 227 
 
 Cawnpore is the next station of importance, and here, too, 
 the kind hospitality of English residents was demonstrated. 
 This city of growing importance is one of the liveliest places 
 in the interior country. There is a very melancholy interest 
 connected with its history in the circumstance of the Sepoy 
 rebellion in 1857. In the beautiful Memorial Garden is located 
 the well into which two hundred and forty butchered and liv- 
 ing persons were thrown by the rebels who learned of the 
 approach of the English soldiers. This well is enclosed and 
 covered Avith a marble wall, in the midst of which stands a 
 beautiful angel figure holding a palm branch and looking pen- 
 sively down into the well. On the banks of the Ganges, some 
 distance from the garden, is the famous Suttee Chauri Ghat, 
 where, under promise of safe conduct to Allahabad by boats, 
 the English garrison and settlers embarked, and no sooner 
 were in their boats than the natives in ambush opened fire 
 and killed nearly every man in the company. The women 
 and children were taken back to the barracks and closely con- 
 fined for a few days, when they met their terrible fate in the 
 well. Cawnpore is now celebrated for its cotton-mills and for 
 its manufactures of leathern goods. It is also celebrated for 
 its jugglers, though it by no means has a monopoly of this 
 interesting genius. But the adepts of the occult art in India 
 rank with the superior orders of cunning tricksters. One 
 may spend an idle hour watching their exploits without being 
 able upon any ground of human possibilities to account for one 
 tenth of what he sees. It is easy to conclude that these 
 crafty performers are in league with the great deceiver. The 
 broad grin with which they watch the astonishment of the 
 onlookers forms a comical feature of the entertainment. 
 
 Lucknow is forty-five miles north from Cawnpore. It is the 
 fourth city in India, having a population of over three hundred 
 thousand. It is even more famous for its participation in the Se- 
 
LUCKNOW. 229 
 
 poy rebellion than Tawnpore. The city was once the capital of 
 the reigning mahurajahs ot" the province of Oudh, and abounds 
 in i)alaces of royalty. In the central part of the city is the 
 Kaiser Bagh, or Emperor's Gardens, a vast pile of buildings, 
 once the mai'niticent home of reigning kings and their exten- 
 sive households. They are built around a square of perhaps 
 fifteen acres which has been cultivated as a park and flower 
 garden. Many of these old-time buildings present an impos- 
 ing appearance as they are approached, but upon closer exami- 
 nation prove to 1)0 bizarre and cheap. They are built of 
 bricks a little more than an inch in thickness, laid in clay, 
 and the walls are covered with stucco Avhich in time crumbles 
 off, leaving the buildings unsightly. The more modern struct- 
 ures are of a different character, some of them being impos- 
 ing and decidedly creditable in appearance. 
 
 The object of greatest interest in Lucknow is the ruins of 
 the Residency. Prior to the mutiny, this was a palace sur- 
 rounded by buildings of the British representation. At that 
 time there were less than one thousand English soldiers, and 
 about the same number of loyal Indian troops, with civilians, 
 women, and children, comprising about three thousand souls 
 surrounded by an overwhelming force of rebels. Fortifications 
 were quickly thrown up, and for eight months the place endured 
 a fearful siege, during which time two thirds of the beleaguered 
 party perished. Relief came under the forces of Sir Henry 
 Havelock, who fought his w^ay through the gates and streets 
 of Lucknow. But his army was not sufficient to raise the 
 siege. Finally ample relief came under the command of Sir 
 Colin Campbell. Sir Henry Lawrence, who at first held com- 
 mand, was mortally wounded by a shell which burst in his 
 room, and Sir Henry Havelock died of dysentery before leav- 
 ing the city. The ruins are carefully preserved in as nearly 
 the shape in which they were left by the siege as possible, 
 
W 
 
 < 
 G 
 O 
 
 H 
 P 
 
 O 
 CO 
 
SCHOOLS IN LUCKNOW. 231 
 
 except that the grounds «ire improved and beautifully kept. 
 The grave of Lawrence is within the grounds, and upon the 
 humble monument is an astounding inscription Alluding to 
 the last words of the faithful man it reads, '' Here lies the 
 man who tried to do his duty. May the Lord have mercy 
 on his soul." 
 
 In missionary work, Lucknow is the headquarters of the 
 publishing work for the American Methodist Episcopal Mis- 
 sion. Here, too, are located a college and school for boys. 
 They have commodious buildings for school and dormitory. 
 The cost of boarding boys at this school is about one dollar per 
 month. The culinary operations are conducted by themselves 
 upon a very simple plan, and embrace chiefly the almost uni- 
 versal chowpatti (spelling mine) made of coarsely ground 
 wheat or ghendri meals mixed with water, rolled very thin, 
 and baked upon the smooth surface of a hot stone. The boys 
 think that these are not bad to take, and it is quite easy to 
 agree with them for a short trial. One hundred dollars will 
 send ten boys to school there for one year. Certainly a good 
 opportunity for philanthropic people to invest some money. 
 
 Besides this, there is located here Miss Thoburn's school 
 for females, which is giving instruction to many young women 
 who are fitting themselves for usefulness in Bible work and 
 teaching. Besides Christian ladies, zenana women are brought 
 to the house in their palkees or closed palanquins, that they 
 may avail themselves of the privileges of the school. The ex- 
 amination of these high-caste ladies by the gentlemen regents 
 of the school has to be carried on throuo'h a curtain, for in no 
 case would they expose their faces to the view of any man 
 except their own husbands or fathers. It would be in their 
 minds an act of gross immodesty. Physicians who have been 
 called to visit patients of this class have to examine their 
 tongues or pulses through an aperture in a curtain. 
 
FARTHER INLAND. 
 
 ETURXING to the main line of the East India rail- 
 ^it, ^^'0' '^^ Cawnpore, another night's ride brings us to 
 ^ Agra, over eight hundred miles up the Ganges Val- 
 ley from Calcutta. The city of Agra is one of the 
 strongest magnets in India. Its attractions are felt by tour- 
 ists even before they leave home, and increase in power as 
 they approach. "Shall you see the Taj?" is the question 
 asked on the way. "Have you seen the Taj?" is frequently 
 heard on the returning journey. The city itself is not very 
 dilTerent from other notable ones in the level Gano'etic Val- 
 ley. The European and aristocratic native portions are spa- 
 cious and beautiful, at least in December, but the bazaars 
 and quarters of the poorer nati^ es are crowded and squalid. 
 The city stands on the west bank of the Jumna. The rail- 
 ways run just south of the city between it and the Fort. The 
 main station is adjacent to the Fort entrance. Within the 
 Fort enclosure are situated many of those magnificent build- 
 ings which furnish the tangible evidence of j)ast greatness. 
 
 Before noticing these buildings, let us consider briefly their 
 origin. Three hundred years ago, approximately speaking, 
 India was overrun by the conquering Mohammedans, who 
 descended upon the country from the passes in the northwest. 
 In twenty-five years the effeminate Hindus, in spite of their 
 best resistance, were sufficiently subdued to prepare the way 
 for the establishment of the great Moghul Empire. Of this 
 dvnasty Akbar the Great is regarded as the real founder. 
 
 [ 233 ] 
 
AGRA FORT. 235 
 
 His successors were men of power and energ}^ especially so 
 was his grandson. Shah Jalian (king of the world). To this 
 man, more than to others, though not exclusively, belongs the 
 credit of these remarkable structures which are India's glory, 
 a glory which but for these has now nearly departed. Shah 
 Jahan thought to establish the seat of his government at Fut- 
 tipore Sikri, twenty-three miles from Agra, where he erected 
 some magnificent buildings, and caused a city to be estab- 
 lished ; but afterward, evidently changing his mind, he settled 
 upon Agra. The former is now deserted and desolate, except 
 for fakirs and guides, who dwell in the silent city. 
 
 The Fort at Agra presents Ironi without a massive and 
 grand appearance. The walls are one and a half miles in cir- 
 cumference, and said to be seventy feet high. They are sur- 
 rounded by a capacious moat, lined with stone. The Fort, 
 built of red sandstone, is apparently in perfect preservation, 
 there being no signs of dissolution. The only entrance is the 
 Delhi gate, an impressive structure approached over a draw- 
 bridge, and containing four massive portals leading through as 
 many walls. The roadway leads to the high ground of the 
 enclosure. The English soldiers are quartered here now, and 
 their barracks and military stores mar the beauty of the place. 
 The object of special interest is the emperor's palace, over- 
 hanging the river that washes the base of the Fort walls. 
 These buildings are of marble, richly inlaid with variously 
 colored stones in beautiful flower patterns. There are the 
 public and private audience halls, the baths, and the Jessamine 
 Tower, each of them beautiful beyond the power of pen to de- 
 scribe. The latter was the private apartment of the favorite 
 queen. Its name is derived from one of the patterns in which 
 precious stones are inlaid in the pure marble. Rosewater 
 fountains, mirrors, paintings, gilt, and fresco united to beautify 
 this place. 
 

 
THE TAJ. 237 
 
 From nearly every window and door of the palace one can 
 look out upon the river, across a bend of which stands in 
 lonely beauty, the pearl of India, the Taj Mahal. Shah Jahan 
 built this place as a tomb for his favorite wife, so it is said ; 
 but it appears to a modern observer that he w^as like most 
 other men ; for while he was doing a very nice thing for his 
 wife, he made it large enough for himself also. At least their 
 tombs are side by side, though the principal place is given to 
 the beloved Begum. The buildinii' stands on the river bank in 
 an enclosure of perhaps ten acres — a beautiful garden — 
 which adds to the effect and loveliness of the buildings. The 
 gateway is a massive and lofty structure, one hundred and fifty 
 feet in height, notable in itself for architectural beauty. It is 
 of red sandstone inlaid with white marble. On each side 
 of the Taj are mosques of the same material, one for women, 
 the other for men. 
 
 The mausoleum consists of a dais twenty feet high and 
 over three hundred feet square, with a minaret one hundred 
 and fifty feet high on each corner. In the center of this plat- 
 form is the tomb, a building nearly two hundred feet square, and 
 rising one hundred and fifty feet high, crowned with a dome. 
 All of this — platform, minarets, and tomb — is of pure white 
 marble. The symmetry is perfect, the workmanship fiiultless. 
 Within is a scene of indescribable beauty. The sarcophagi 
 occupy the center, and are inwrought with precious stones, 
 and surrounded by remarkable marble screens, which are also 
 inlaid. I shall attempt no adjectives or exclamations; better 
 pens than mine have failed to describe the place. The best of 
 them convey but a poor idea of the strange beauty of the 
 place, and entirely fiiil to descvibe the sensation of exquisite 
 delight one feels as he beholds in wonder. The doorway bears 
 this inscription in Arabic : " Thus saith Jesus (on whom be 
 peace), This world is a bridge; pass thou over it, but build no 
 
>-5 
 
 H 
 
 
 CO 
 CO 
 
240 FARTHER INLAND. 
 
 house thereon." And upon the interior walls the entire Koran 
 is inscribed in inlaid work. 
 
 The tomb of Akbar at Secundra near Agra, and that of 
 Itmud-ed-Doula across the river, well repay the visits they re- 
 ceive. In the latter are marble screens nearly seven feet 
 square, of one stone. These screens are wonderful works of 
 skill and patience, consisting of slabs of marble two and a half 
 or three inches thick, pierced in intricate patterns into fine 
 net-work, and executed without a fl;iw. They are found in 
 nearly all the palaces and great tombs of that period. 
 
 The most interesting feature of my visit to Agra was a 
 conversation with Mrs. Clara Swain, M. D., who for more than 
 six years has been attached to the family of a native king. 
 They were staying temporarily in Agra, though their home is 
 about seventy miles away from the railway in a more remote 
 part of the country. Dr. Swain is a devoted and earnest 
 Christian, v;ho has discreetly represented the cause of the 
 Master while doing the work of a physician. A wide-felt in- 
 fluence has consequently gone out through the country, and 
 especially in the palace. The rani and her young daughter 
 love the Bible as well as the Saviour it presents. The rajah 
 himself is outwardly attached to his heathenism still, but it is 
 hoped that the grace of God is at work inwardly to illuminate 
 the mind. At the time of my visit, the family had been pass- 
 ing through a severe trial, for the rajah had forbidden his 
 daughter to read the Bible ; but after pleading with tears upon 
 her part, consent was given upon the condition that she should 
 not "read about eatins; and killino- cows." No more 2:rievous 
 sin is known to the Hindu than this. 
 
 Dr. Swain is growing gray in the service. Once she 
 thought to retire, and went home to America ; but urgent 
 letters soon followed her for her return. So taking u}» the 
 burden once more, she has isolated herself from white people 
 
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 16 
 
242 FARTHER INLAND. 
 
 and from Christians for Christ's sake, a work which some, if 
 called upon to do, would reckon a sacrifice. 
 
 A short distance from Agra is the city of Muttra with a 
 population of sixty thousand. This very noted and sacred 
 city is the birthplace and principal scene of the life of Krishna, 
 the ninth incarnation of Vishnu. Christianity has made but 
 little inroad here, and it was a peculiar pleasure to accept a 
 kind invitation from Dr. Martha Sheldon in charge of the 
 Deaconess' Home, to visit and view heathenism in its unadul- 
 terated form, if it be possible to adulterate that which is base- 
 ness itself. The Methodist mission has a good start here, 
 and under the wise and active measures taken by Dr. J. E. 
 Scott, land has been procured and a school building was in 
 process of erection, directly in the midst of the city. The 
 sacred Jumna flows past the city, upon the banks of which are 
 many temples and sacred places. A lofty stone tower marks 
 the place of the suttee sacrifices, now abolished by the law, 
 but still cherished in the hearts of the Brahmans. Here a 
 very sacred cow was to be seen. The peculiar sacredness evi- 
 dently consists in the fact that the creature appears to have 
 six legs, but it is easy to discern that the two little extra 
 appendages had been grafted upon the shoulders when the 
 animal was a calf. 
 
 Bindraban is a neighboring city where the darkness of 
 Hinduism is even more dense than at Muttra, for the mission- 
 aries in the latter city and the soldiers at the cantonment do 
 give a little tint to the moral atmosphere ; but in Bindraban 
 there is not a white person to break the color, nor a Christian 
 to relieve the darkness. The corruption of the priests, the 
 superstition and blindness of the people, and the folly of the 
 devotees are here very painfully manifest. At the time of my 
 visit with Dr. Sheldon, we were the only white people in the 
 city. Besides being "objects of curiosity to many, our presence 
 
UNMIXED IIEATHEXISM. 243 
 
 excited the cupidity of a crowd of beggars, but we suffered no 
 indignity, though we visited several temples and the doctor 
 talked with the people freely about Jesus. It was a sad sight 
 to witness the people prostrating themselves before their idols 
 and bestowing their scant offerings of rice, water, and mari- 
 golds. When the people became attentive to the word of 
 truth, the priests wonld quickly appear and scatter them with 
 a word. 
 
 At the entrance of a fine temple with a massive marble 
 fjicade, we were restrained from going farther by the follow- 
 ing (quaint warning inscribed in the marble wall in far better 
 lettering than grammar : " Prevention by religion for Moham- 
 medan and European gentlemen to go farther step." In the 
 great Red-sandstone Temple the principal idol sits gloomy in a 
 dark recess attended by numerous priests who see to all his im- 
 aginary wants. The water in which he is bathed is carefully 
 preserved and doled out to the Bengali widows who resort to 
 this city in great numbers. The water is used for bathing the 
 face, and a portion is drunk by these deluded creatures as 
 a panacea for the many ills of this unfortunate class of beings. 
 
 A temple devoted to Krishna was in process of construc- 
 tion at the cost of twenty-five lakhs of rupees. (The lakh is 
 one hundred thousand.) Marble inlaid with costly stone 
 forms the principal part of the building. A visit to such a city 
 reveals the fact that Hinduism is yet a green tree. 
 
 Delhi is in some respects the most interesting of India's 
 cities. Its history is thickly studded with dark and light spots, 
 and the monuments of its past greatness and power are spread 
 around over a radius of several miles. It is identified with 
 the earliest history of the Orient, being contemporaneous with 
 Nineveh and Babylon. Akbar, the great Moghul emperor, 
 made it his capital ; later Shah Jahan, after building Futti- 
 pore Sikri and Agra Fort, transferred once more the gov- 
 
a 
 
 a 
 
SIGHTS m DELin. 245 
 
 ernment to Delhi. Here, too, this remarkable man has left 
 monuments of his indomitable energy. Not only of energy, 
 however, but also of oppression; for even the lovel}^ Taj cost 
 the forced labor of twenty thousand men for twenty years. 
 The men were given a bare subsistence ; and in this way he 
 built all his works. 
 
 The modern Delhi (pronounced Delly) is enclosed by a 
 wall of red sandstone which I should think to be twenty-five 
 feet high and ten feet thick. It has nearly two hundred 
 thousand inhabitants, divided between Hindus and Mohamme- 
 dans, the latter having a predominating influence. The Fort 
 is within the city enclosure, and like that of Agra, stands on 
 the banks of the Jumna. It contains the king's palaces, 
 which for beauty rival those of Agra. The queen's bath- 
 rooms are inlaid with small, convex mirrors, the walls being 
 covered with them. The effect, as may be imagined, is 
 remarkable. Through the baths, and indeed through most of 
 the palace, runs a marble water-way, four feet wide. In places, 
 different colored marble is inlaid zig-zag, and the effect of 
 water running over these places is said to produce the like- 
 ness of fishes. 
 
 In point of magnificence, the Diwcm-i-Jchas, or Hall of Pri- 
 vate Audience, is the most remarkable l)uilding in India. It 
 is of marble, most richly inlaid, while the windows are marble 
 screens of great beauty. The roof is supported by about 
 thirty-six marble pillars, most of them three and one half feet 
 square, inwrought with precious stones. The ceiling is a series 
 of gothic arches of marble, frescoed in gold, silver, and scarlet. 
 In the middle of this grand room stood a marble platform, now 
 moved to one side, which supported the famous peacock throne. 
 It was called thus because it represented the spread tail of 
 that fowl. Its cost is said to have been nearly thirty 
 million dollars. Of course it disappeared long ago, and the 
 
246 FARTHER INLAND. 
 
 buildings themselves have been marred by robbing them of 
 their most precious gems. The frieze of this room bears this 
 inscription : " If paradise be on earth, it is here, it is here." 
 That little "if" spoils all the dreams of human happiness and 
 perfection ; for through the wicked ambition of a son, Shah 
 Jahan found in one of the splendid apartments at Agra a prison 
 in which he ended his days in sorrow. 
 
 The Hall of Judgment, though of grander proportions and 
 conception than any of the others, is of baser material, being 
 made of brown stone inlaid with marble. But it contains the 
 emperor's seat of judgment, constructed of beautiful marble in 
 the form of a pavilion, with the floor raised ten feet. Before 
 his majesty sat the prime minister upon a marble seat ; he re- 
 ceived sentence from the emperor, and conveyed it to the 
 accused. In those "days it was regarded a slight thing to 
 sacrifice life. 
 
 The Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, built for the emperor's 
 own use, is a veritable pearl of pure marble. It received its 
 name on account of its costly carpet inwrought with pearls. 
 
 For the use of the common people the emperor built outside 
 the Fort the Jumna Miisjid, or Great Mosque, which will 
 accommodate many thousands of worshipers. Its floor is 
 reached by forty steps from the street, the lower ones being 
 one hundred and fifty feet long. This building is mostly of 
 sandstone, but the floor of the court is composed of black and 
 white marble. 
 
 In a cloister a priest keeps charge of some precious relics, 
 which he shows for backsheesh. Among them are old writ- 
 ings by Mohammed's son and grandson, over twelve hundred 
 years old. He has an old shoe of the prophet, a footprint in 
 stone, and a hair from his* beard. 
 
 Time and space bid us hasten through India to other lands, 
 but there is so much to relate in regard to this most interest- 
 
> 
 
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 'X 
 
248 FARTHER INLAND. 
 
 ing country and people, that it is extremely difficult to heed 
 the admonitions to cut short our visit. Here in Delhi, in 
 Lucknow, Benares, and indeed in every city, the visitor is im- 
 pressed with the subtile ingenuity in handicraft displayed on 
 every side. Men living and working in squalor with only the 
 rudest implements turn out products of skill which would 
 bafTle our most accomplished artisans with all that machinery 
 and enlightenment can do for them. Sitting upon the ground, 
 or upon a low stool, they work with fingers and toes at spin- 
 ning, wea'\'ing, needlework, engraving, and gold and silver work, 
 producing articles that sell for a few pennies, or that cost a 
 fortune and require years of patient toil, on perhaps a few 
 yards of cloth. 'Tis said that when the Prince of Wales was 
 in India, they presented to him three pieces of muslin each 
 one yard wide and twenty yards long and weighing three and 
 one half ounces. Every thread of this cloth was spun and 
 woven by hand. 
 
 For generations father and children follow the same line of 
 employment. The iron rule of caste holds them to it; and 
 the result is a proficiency that is perhaps natural, but at the 
 same time is to us nothing short of marvelous. The dyers of 
 this country distinguish over two hundred colors that occi- 
 dental eyes cannot discern. In carving or engraving they do 
 not follow a pattern, but are guided by their unerring sight. 
 Though caste may have its advantage in this direction, it is 
 but a small offset to the great injuries that it inflicts upon the 
 race. It is the barrier to progress and modern civilization. 
 
 The house of the European, in India, generally contains 
 about ;i dozen servants, all men except the ai/ja, or nurse, who 
 takes care of the children. The reason for employing so many 
 is that the climate usually forbids the white woman doing 
 much of her own work, while the laws of caste forbid the 
 servant doing more than one kind of w^ork. The man who 
 
servant;s. 
 
 249 
 
 drives the carriage will not open the gate ; the cook will not 
 wash the dishes ; the one who waits on the table will not 
 sweep ; hence, a man must needs be kept for each branch of 
 domestic work. But this burden is not so intolerable when 
 we take into consideration that about six cents a day pays the 
 wages of each man, out of which he boards himself and family, 
 and he lives in a row of cheap huts at the rear of the bunga- 
 low ; so that the difference in the cost of servants is not very 
 much, if an}^, compared with the Indian system. 
 
 M-H-U 
 
 Jessamine Tower, Agra Fort. 
 
DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 'T Delhi the traveler is nine hundred and fifty-four 
 miles from Calcutta and eight hundred and ninety 
 miles from Bombay, the great western metropolis. 
 If he be short of time, he will at this point turn from 
 his northwestern course to the southwestern tack for the 
 latter city. That is, in case he starts at Calcutta and leaves 
 at Bombay. But by far the greater number of people who go 
 over this route go the other way, Bombay being the port of 
 entrance for nine tenths of those who go to India. 
 
 Leaving Delhi early in the evening, a comfortable night's 
 ride brings us to Jeypore, a city of more than average interest. 
 The maharajah of this province is a young, progressive prince 
 of good English education, who has had a taste of Western 
 civilization. This does not prevent his being a devoted Hindu ; 
 but it has inspired him to beautify and improve his capital city 
 to such a degree that it is to Europeans and Americans the 
 most congenial city in interior India. 
 
 Six miles from the modern capital is the ancient and de- 
 serted Palace of Umber. The name of this place is generally 
 spelled "Amber," a having two sounds in Indian languages, — 
 the broad sound, and the short sound of u. For four miles the 
 journey is by carriage, then, at the foot of the hills, we leave 
 the carriage, and having on the previous day applied through 
 the English resident for permission to visit the place, we find 
 at this point an elephant with servants waiting to take us over 
 the hill to the palace of by-gone days. 
 
 [250] 
 
o 
 
 
 ^?^1Li 
 
 N»- 
 
252 DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 This elephant ride was to me an entirely new proceeding. 
 The giant animal is attended by two men. The malioiit, or 
 driver, sits astride the neck holding in his hand a sharp iron 
 pin about a foot long, resembling a marlinespike. His method 
 of infusing enthusiasm or obedience consists in punching the 
 beast in the back of his head with the iron pin. He does it in 
 a way that produces the desired effect after three or four 
 blows ; but it would be well to say that the thickness of the 
 elephant's hide would withstand a much harder punch without 
 being pierced than the mahout gives him, so the operation is 
 not so cruel as it seems. 
 
 For a while I stood looking upward, wondering how a man 
 that could not fly could possibly get up there. The driver 
 began pegging away at the giant's head; there was a backward 
 and forward swaying of the mass of flesh, followed by a drop- 
 ping upon his knees, next an awkward spreading out of the 
 hind legs, and then the elephant had done all that he could do 
 to accommodate us, for he lay on the ground. But still the 
 seat was above my head, therefore an attendant brought a 
 step-ladder which he planted against the broad side of the 
 beast; we climbed up and pulled the ladder after us. Then 
 there was a quaking, for the mahout applied his punch. By 
 clinging to the rude frame that formed our seat we managed to 
 retain our hold. Up came the hind end of our conveyance, 
 next with sundry heavings, up came the other end. The 
 animal being again on his feet, forward we went with a jerking, 
 shaking gait that was perhaps better than not going at all, but 
 was several degrees worse than walking. After having climbed 
 the hill, our course lay along a beautiful artificial lake, shoAvn 
 in the illustration, thence up another steep hillside, to the 
 gorgeous but forsaken place. 
 
 Modern Jeypore has gas and water-works, a fine museum, 
 and botanical and zoological gardens, the latter containing a 
 
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254 DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 den of the fiercest man-eating Bengal tigers, who sprung at 
 the bars with a fearful roar as we approached. There is also 
 a large lagoon in which are a great number of voracious alliga- 
 tors which the guide tantalized with pieces of meat tied to a 
 rope. The stables of the king contain over one hundred ele- 
 phants. These animals are much more rare in India than is 
 generally supposed. They are costly to procure and expen- 
 sive to keep. 
 
 The building which contains the museum cost six lakhs of 
 rupees, and is named Albert Ilall in honor of the Prince of 
 Wales, by whom the corner stone was laid in 1876. The 
 frieze of the building is adorned with mottoes taken from the 
 Vedas, or Hindu sacred books. Amoug them are these : 
 " High-minded men do good without thought of their own 
 interests." " He hath all wealth who hath a mind contented ; 
 to him whose feet are covered with shoes, the whole earth is 
 covered with leather." " Do naught to others which if done 
 to thee would give thee pain." 
 
 While in this city of sixty thousand people I saw no white 
 man, though I believe that there were three or four in the 
 city. There is no more occasion for fear in thus mingling 
 with these people than there would be in one of our own 
 cities, or among our own kindred. Indeed, when we call the 
 people of India heathen, it would be well to pause a moment to 
 consider upon what ground we do so. I do not say that there 
 are no grounds. But if we travel from one end of the country to 
 the other, we shall see no drunkenness and no saloons for the 
 natives ; we shall hear no profanity ; we shall hear of no vio- 
 lent robberies and of but very few murders. As we ride on 
 the railway, it is no uncommon sight to see wild deer feeding 
 with cattle in the same field where men are at work and even 
 within a very few rods of the train. They do not run away. 
 Jackals follow the ditches into the very cities for food. Beau- 
 
MARRIAGES. 255 
 
 tiful storks and cranes gaze at us as we pass their muddy 
 haunts, but they do not appear to be alarmed. As we walk 
 the streets, the birds will scarcely get out of our way, and in 
 the cities where monkeys abound they are sometimes too famil- 
 iar to be agreeable. This friendliness between men and animals 
 speaks volumes for the kindliness of the people, and we all 
 know that things are not this way in "Christian" countries. 
 
 But while they respect animal life as being but another 
 form of human life, they are not always thoughtful of the 
 comfort of their beasts of burden. And although they throw 
 of their grain to feed the birds, they reject with disdain the 
 plea of the beggar who craves a morsel of food. 
 
 In regard to marriages one universal and deep impression 
 prevails, — every girl must be married. Unless she is married 
 and the mother of at least one son, she is regarded as not only 
 a failure, but a curse, and she is made to feel it. A daughter 
 must not be married into a caste lower than that of her father. 
 Upon the unfortunate fathers of the girls rests the duty of 
 providing for their daughters' marriage. To secure this, if one 
 be a poor man, he may have to hire a bridegroom ; indeed, 
 some men follow the business of marrying poor girls for a few 
 rupees each. Then a feast must be provided, so that the ex- 
 pense and burden of getting a family of girls married off is 
 one that renders domestic life in many cases a grief. It causes 
 female children to be unwelcome. 
 
 In order that the task may be done without fail, it is 
 begun very early. Girls are frequently married in infancy, or 
 at least so far as to be formally betrothed, which satisfies 
 custom's demands. This is the method employed by the men 
 mentioned above, who follow tlie business ; they become only 
 betrothed to the girls, who are henceforth considered married, 
 though they never see their husbands after that time. They 
 can then be saved, and the father has redeemed his character. 
 

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 Ah 
 
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HINDU WIDOWHOOD. 257 
 
 Of course, in most cases, the marriage is in good faith, and at 
 ten to twelve years of age the bride is chiimed, and becomes 
 the property of the mother-in-kiw. But shouhl the bridegroom 
 die at gny time after the engagement, the chihl, or woman, is 
 plunged into the dreadful state of widowhood. She may be 
 the petted and loved child of her mother's house, the joy of 
 the home ; as such she is dressed in finery, and receives many 
 privileges, which make life a joy to her mother. But some 
 day word comes that her betrothed is dead. The finery, 
 jewelry, and all marks of favor are at once stripped ofi"; she 
 is clothed in rags, and becomes a slave, a curse, an object of 
 loathing, even in her own mother's eyes. 
 
 Henceforth her life is brightened by no joy. There is no 
 rift in the cloud of darkness in this world, and beyond only 
 the blackness of despair. Millions of innocent, happy lives 
 have thus been smothered beneath a horrible custom. Thou- 
 sands have sought beneath the river's surface the only possi- 
 ble escape from an unendurable weight of vioa. With such a 
 fate the dreadful suttee became not only possible, but desir- 
 able ; because it provided an escape from the ills of this state, 
 and formed the only avenue to future joy. The horrible sacri- 
 fice of the suttee, or sati, has been repressed by law ; though 
 we have every reason to believe that it was formerly very 
 common in India. It was a voluntary act on the part of a 
 widow, who allowed the priests to bind and burn her upon the 
 fire that consumed the body of the husband. The sufferings 
 of widowhood were so great, with no possible escape, and the 
 future happiness of the wife who thus suffered was painted in 
 such glowing terms, that many were thus induced to suffer. 
 The many " suttee posts " throughout the land bear witness to 
 their frequency. Often women would change their minds and 
 desire to escape at the last moment ; but having taken the vow, 
 they were not permitted to change their purpose. 
 
 17 
 
258 DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 The justification offered for such iiihuiiifin conduct toward 
 widows and even helpless and unofi'ending children, is the 
 superstition that the death of the husband is the result of 
 some dreadful sin conunitted bv the wife in a former existence; 
 and justice has designed for her this fate as a punishment. 
 
 But a womaii who becomes a mother of sons is honored, 
 especially when they are grown to manhood. A person de- 
 siring to wish a girl great happiness says, •' May you become 
 the mother of eight sons, and may your husband survive you." 
 But the cruel goddess of fashion, under Avhose rule the women 
 of Christendom suffer such mental and physical anxiety and 
 pain, does not thus rule our sisters in India. It is true they 
 are fond of finery. They wear all they can procure of chains, 
 nose-rings, anklets, and toe-bells. But their dresses are made 
 when the cloth is woven and hemmed. The men do the sew- 
 ing, weaving, embroidery, and the women have but little 
 to worry about, except the principal care of the children, the 
 simple cooking, and for a pastime the universal employment of 
 2;atherino: cow duns: and makin"; it into cakes for fuel. 
 
 I hesitate to write the last words, because of our disgust 
 for such a practice ; but we are speaking now of India, and 
 this species of offal possesses nothing offensive to the Hindu. 
 Indeed, it is used in many sacred rites, and a devout Brahman 
 has his doorway washed with it each morning before he ven- 
 tures out. Among the poor it forms an almost universal fuel, 
 and to be relieved from its disaorreeable fumes is one of the 
 pleasures of getting out of the country. The avidity with 
 which Christians eat the sacred cow is to them ftir more re- 
 pugnant than their admiration of the animal is to us. 
 
 But after all, we read that God hath made of one blood all 
 nations for to dwell on the face of the whole earth ; hence our 
 differences are caused by education and surrounding influ- 
 ences. They are not created in us. Human nature is the same 
 
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 O 
 
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1)60 DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 all the world over, — poor, weak, defective. But all men are 
 made complete in Christ. No donbt Christ will do as much 
 for India as for other countries. 
 
 Mt. Aboo, the great headquarters for Jain worship, is on 
 the road from Jeypore to Bombay, and also the city of Ahme- 
 dabad, noted for its curious manufactures ; but these must be 
 passed by this time. 
 
 Bombay is probably at present equal to if not greater than 
 Calcutta in size. At the last census it was but little behind, 
 and is gaining on its eastern and more ancient competitor. It 
 is built upon a narrow neck of land, the extreme point of 
 which was once an island but is now joined to the mainland. 
 This peninsula forms the protection of the harbor, which is 
 safe and capacious. And once out of the harbor, the sailor is 
 directly upon the broad waters of the Arabian Sea instead of 
 having to follow the shifting and uncertain course of a river 
 channel for many miles. Bombay is a modern city. Within 
 the precincts of what is called " The Fort," Avhich embraces 
 the extremity of the peninsula, the streets are wide and the 
 buildings are creditable. There are European merchants and 
 offices of various kinds, but the principal portion of the busi- 
 ness of the city seems to be in the hands of the Parsees, who 
 constitute a very influential part of the community. As 
 before remarked, a great majority — seventy-five thousand out 
 of a total of eighty-five thousand — of these people live here. 
 They may be known by their peculiar dress and manners. 
 Both men and women are thus distinguished. At and before 
 sunrise they repair in large numbers to the sea-shore to 
 engage in w^orship which is directed to the rising king of day 
 and to the ocean. Their prayers are long and pharisaical, 
 consisting, to every appearance, *of mere form. At least, they 
 are not discommoded if interrupted in the midst of their cere- 
 mony by a passing acquaintance speaking to them, especially 
 
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202 DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 ifi^ 1);^ ;i iu:ittei" of business. After this has been attended to, 
 they i^roceed with their devotions as if nothing had occuiTed. 
 This class are descendants of the followers of Zoroaster and 
 of the fire-worshipers of Persia. They have their fire temples 
 in Bombay, where the sacred flame is not allowed to go out. 
 They deny that they worship any other deity than God, but 
 claim that they worship him through the elements of nature, — 
 fire, water, and earth. 
 
 In order to avoid defiling either, they neither bury nor 
 burn their dead, nor cast them into the sea. They expose 
 them upon the top of circular towers, called Towers of Silence, 
 to vultures which live about the towers in flocks. No sooner 
 is the corpse laid down than these voracious creatures pounce 
 upon it, and within a few minutes nothing but the bones 
 remains. As these accumulate, they are thrown into a Avell 
 in the middle of the tower. These birds being held in high 
 regard by the Parsees, it would go hard with any one who 
 was to harm one of them and be found out. 
 
 Among the finest modern buildings of Bombay and India, it 
 may be said, I think, the finest of its class in the world, is the 
 station of the G. I. P. railway, an illustration of which is 
 given on page 268. The native quarters of this city are 
 crowded, as is everywhere the case. The botanical and zoolog- 
 ical gardens are inferior, but the central market is well worth 
 a visit. 
 
 Within the harbor are several islands, one of which con- 
 tains the celebrated Elephanta Caves. A view of these caves 
 forms the particular attraction of a visit to Bomljay. Pleasure 
 boats run at short intervals, and the distance is perhaps three 
 miles from the wharf. Landing, we climb stairs and a comfort- 
 able path to the summit of the island where the caves are 
 located. They are not of natural origin but were excavated, 
 it is supposed, thirteen hundred years ago, for Hindu 
 
r 
 
 O 
 < 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 C5 
 
264 DELHI TO BOMBAY. 
 
 temples. In the process, pillars of rock were left standing, 
 and these were sculptured with images of gods of massive 
 proportions. Various shrines were cut out of solid rock many 
 of which remain intact. When the country fell into the hands 
 of the Portuguese, those over-zealous biiiots thou2;ht to 
 destroy heathenism by battering down this wonderful monu- 
 ment of skill and labor. They fired cannon balls at the sup- 
 porting pillars and succeeded in breaking down some of them, 
 but not in demolishing the caves entirely. The main apart- 
 ment is one hundred and thirty feet square, and is supported 
 by thirty-six pillars. In one place the triad of Hindu gods is 
 together. The figure is eighteen feet in height and of pro- 
 portionate size. 
 
 Seventy-five miles from Bombay is the city of Poonah, 
 celebrated as the home of many learned Brahmans. Here is 
 located the school of Pundita Ramabai, who has espoused the 
 cause of the Hindu widows. A Hindu and a stranger, she 
 left her country for England where she learned the language 
 and found her Saviour. From there she crossed the Atlantic 
 and traversed the United States, lecturing and collecting funds 
 with which to establish a home and a school for these poor 
 outcasts. It was a great privilege to spend a few hours at 
 this home to witness the laudable efforts which this noble 
 woman and her associates are putting forth, and the apparent 
 success which is attending their efforts. Xo particular con- 
 straint in religious matters is brought to bear upon the inmates, 
 but a healthful Christian atmosphere pervades the place, which 
 exercises a silent but powerful influence. It was a joy to see 
 the happiness of these girls who had been rescued from a life 
 worse than death. Poonah is a beautiful city, the most beau- 
 tiful spot in which is that happy home where life and light 
 beam brightly for those who have been rescued from hopeless 
 despair. 
 
ADIEU INDIA. 
 
 E have now passed another stage in our journey. 
 From the decks of the '• Clyde " Ave view with 
 regret the vanishing shores of this strange world. 
 Regret? — Yes; because in the brief time during 
 which we have associated with the people of India, we have 
 come to love them as belonging to the great human brother- 
 hood and family of God. Those we have met of our own race 
 have been unstinted in their kindness and hospitality. Meet- 
 ing them as strangers, they have proved to be brothers and 
 sisters. 
 
 No one could be insensible to the fiiults of the natives, but 
 let it be remembered that faults are the universal characteris- 
 tics of humanity wherever it is found. From their standpoint 
 they are not more faulty than other people. They are genial, 
 docile, and grateful for the smallest favors. Kind and atten- 
 tive to the wants of strangers, they seem to take delight in 
 pleasing those whom they serve. In their social relations, 
 impurity is rare. Among themselves the family ties are held 
 sacred, and for degraded womanhood we must look to the low 
 haunts of vicious white people. 
 
 For more than three hundred years, rej)uted Christianity in 
 some of its forms, true or false, has been proclaimed in India. 
 And although something has been done, we often wonder 
 that more has not beenaccomplished, until we obtain an under- 
 standing of the relation of the teachings of those who advocate 
 Christianity to the minds of the Hindus. When we have 
 
 [265] 
 
266 - ADIEU INDIA. 
 
 obtained this, our wonderment is sure to be considerably 
 modified. 
 
 For the purposes of this discussion, it will be best to 
 divide the people into two classes, the learned and the igno- 
 rant. This is by no means an imaginary classification; but it 
 is a significant reality in that country ; for while under favor- 
 able circumstances the ignorant classes are affected in some 
 districts in a remarkable manner, there are but very few of 
 the educated Hindus who accept Christianity. It is certainly 
 very desirable that these should be reached ; for thus both 
 classes would be brought under the direct influences of the 
 gospel. 
 
 No doubt the principal reason why the higher classes look 
 so indifierently or so contemptuously upon Christianity, is 
 that they see no use for it. Could they be convinced of the 
 superior utility of that religion, no doubt many would lay 
 aside prejudice and embrace the better faith. The religion of 
 the Bible needs to be faithfully represented in order to be 
 appreciated by the Hindus. They are not an irreligious peo- 
 ple, groveling in fetichism, but an intensely religious people, 
 having what is to them a philosophical and symmetrical faith, 
 one which their ancestors have held for ages past. Therefore 
 their first inquiry is apt to be. What will Christianity do for 
 us more than our own religion is doing ? What has it done 
 for the people in yowv country ? Have you atheists there ? 
 We have none. Do you hear profane oaths in Christian 
 lands ? We hear none. Do you have drunkenness and 
 uncleanness ? We have them, but to a small degree except 
 as we receive them from Christendom. 
 
 It will not be admitted that any of these pertain to Chris- 
 tianity ; they are directly opposed to its spirit and teaching ; 
 yet the fact that they prevail in what we call Christian lands, 
 and do not exist in what we call heathendom, causes Chris- 
 
OBSTACLES TO CHRISTIANITY. 267 
 
 tianity to appear at a great disadvantage to the informed 
 Hindu. The enemy has sown tares in the Master's field, and 
 both wheat and tares are growing together, for which reason it 
 is but natural that critics and opposers should point to the 
 tares as the legitimate fruit of the gospel seed. These evils 
 would not be so great if they were confined to our home coun- 
 tries ; but wherever the cross is carried, Satan goes also, to 
 plant his ensign of darkness. Much could be done if pro- 
 fessed Christians would carefully and consistently avoid all 
 appearance of evil, and show that Christianity is something 
 altogether distinct from these forms of indulgence. But many 
 professed Christians make the exigencies of the climate an 
 excuse for doing things that are not consistent with pure re- 
 ligion. No excuse for intemperance or the indulgence of 
 appetite exists. The religion of the Bible is adapted to all 
 climatic conditions ; its pure principles are everywhere condu- 
 ci^e to life and health. 
 
 The next great obstacle that exists we believe to be the 
 imaginary similarity between Christianity and the false relig- 
 ions. We are often told by Indians of supposed education 
 and culture, that there is but little, and no very essential dif- 
 ference between the system taught by Christians and that 
 which they hold. Nor are the Indians the only ones who so 
 regard this matter. Prominent men of our own race have 
 expatiated upon this discovery with particular delight ; and 
 nothing could please Satan any better than to have the opinion 
 prevail that Jesus Christ, Buddha, Confucius, Zoroaster, and 
 Keshub Chunder Sen, all taught the same truths — that they 
 occupy a common platform ; moreover, that the Bible, the 
 Vedas, and the Koran are all equally inspired. 
 
 It is true that there are points of resemblance which strike 
 the casual observer, even as a counterfeit resembles the 
 genuine. But in reality there is no more resemblance than 
 
X 
 
OTHER OBSTACLES. 269 
 
 there is between a brass and a gold coin. Hence it is a fatal 
 weakness \x])0\\ the part of Christianity to allow that a real 
 similarity exists. 
 
 Furthermore, it may be claimed that most, if not all, of 
 these points of resemblance grow out of erroneous interpreta- 
 tions of scriptural doctrines by Christians. For instance, the 
 generally accepted theory of the natural immortality of man 
 forms the main link of this imaginary chain of sympathetic 
 likeness. If Christian teachers rightly apprehended the truth 
 of no life beyond the present, — no immortality except through 
 faith in Christ, — they would possess a weapon with which 
 to deal effectual and deadly blows at the whole system of 
 demonology, transmigration, hero-worship, and false gods. 
 
 It must be acknowledged that there is but a step between 
 the teachings of Plato, which have substantially been adopted 
 alike by many Christians, and those of more modern heathen 
 philosophers upon this point; but between the true Biblical 
 doctrine and the vagaries of philosophy, so-called, there is a 
 gulf so wide and deep that there can be no confounding them. 
 
 Another serious obstacle to the Hindus' receiving Christi- 
 anity is the fact that those who profess the latter kill and eat 
 the sacred cattle. All cattle are sacred to them, consequently 
 to kill a cow is a crime compared to which the killing of a man 
 of the poorer classes is but an insignificant offense. And to eat 
 the flesh, is, if possible, still worse. Not infrequently the 
 missionary gathers a crowd of listeners, when a priest 
 coming along will cry out, "This man eats the cow and swine; 
 why do you hear him?" That is enough; his crowd melts 
 away, and they hear him no more. Now the fact is, that 
 after a long period of history, we find permission given in the 
 Bible for the eating of certain animals ; it was, however, not 
 in the original plan, nor is it taught or advised by the Bible. 
 Had sin never entered, none would ever have shed blood to 
 
270 ADIEU INDIA. 
 
 obtain food. Nor is it a necessity now ; and if Christian 
 teachers in India woukl adopt and teach vegetarian principles, 
 there is no donbt that their influence for good would be greatly 
 enhanced. It would in that climate be beneficial to themselves, 
 as well as disarm the strongest prejudice against Christianity 
 that exists. 
 
 Other points might be specified in which a consistent ad- 
 herence to the literal teachings of the Scriptures would help 
 greatly to pave the way for Christianity. The Bible, taken in 
 its entirety, with its truths faithfully reproduced in the lives 
 and teachings of the missionaries, is exactly what India needs ; 
 such a representation would meet with a far more effectual 
 reception than is now accorded to its misinterpretations. 
 
 But even with all these and all such obstacles removed, 
 India would not freely accept ihe gospel. Satan, the adver- 
 sary of the truth, is still at work. However, all will ap- 
 preciate the fixct that the nearer the laborers come to living 
 and teaching the simple truth, the more they can expect of 
 God's blessing to accompany their efforts. And after all, the 
 want of this blessing is the greatest obstacle to the success of 
 missionary efforts in India and elsewhere. 
 
INDIA TO EGYPT. 
 
 IpIVE days' sailing from Bombay across the Arabian Sea 
 it in a course a little south of west, brought us to Aden 
 at the southwestern extremity of Arabia, a distance 
 of one thousand six hundred and sixty-four miles. As 
 we sailed for some hours along the rocky cliffs that form the 
 southern Arabian shore, I watched in vain for a sign of verdure, 
 seeing only one small tuft of wdiat appeared to be wild reeds 
 growing at the water's edge. Nor is there anything to re- 
 lieve the barrenness as we approach the port. Aden is located 
 on the slopes of a high promontory of desert rocks and sand. 
 Its importance is derived from its position, wdiich makes it a 
 convenient coaling station and trans-shipping point for eastern 
 African points, and a military post of strategic value. Its 
 salubrious climate, the heat being tempered with sea breezes, 
 and the sun being rarely obscured by clouds, is supposed to 
 have furnished the ancient Arabs with a reason for calling it 
 Aden, that is, Eden, or paradise. The average period of rain 
 does not exceed one day in a year, and sometimes even that 
 is missing. In the high hills back of the city the ancient 
 inhabitants excavated great reservoirs for storing the rain. 
 These were located in ravines ; and as but little of the water 
 soaked into the ground, in the course of a very few hours' rain, 
 an immense c[uantity of water would be collected. Some of 
 these reservoirs have been restored, and at present form the 
 sole source of fresh-water supply. 
 
 [2713 
 
272 INDIA TO EGYPT. 
 
 Many years ago sagacious England saw the strategic value 
 of Aden, standing like a second Gibraltar at the entrance of 
 the Red Sea. In 1838 an English vessel was wrecked in the 
 vicinity, and the survivors were very badly treated by the Arabs. 
 This furnished a pretext for demanding reparation, and by the 
 judicious addition of some money consideration, the old sultan 
 was induced to turn the promontory of Aden over to Great 
 Britain. He afterward changed his mind, but the English 
 statesmen did not change theirs. After a few hours of fight- 
 ing in January, 1839, the place fell into the hands of the Brit- 
 ish government. Great Britain at once strongly fortified this 
 gateway of the East, which is now rendered far more important 
 by the opening of the Suez Canal. It is the wise policy of Eng- 
 land to sit entrenched by all the great channels of commerce. 
 
 We did not go ashore here as our stay was short and there 
 is but little to entice one to make the effort. The native city 
 is not in sight from the shipping, but the harbor and fortifica- 
 tions present a busy appearance. Scarcely had we dropped 
 anchor, before the vessel was surrounded by Somali boys on 
 little rude canoes or floats, who would offer to dive for coins 
 This is part of the experience in every half-civilized port in 
 warm climates, and the agility of the lads in diving and 
 scrambling for the money that is thrown into the water, is 
 somewhat interesting and surprising, but not nearly so much 
 so as the foolishness of the passengers who continue to throw 
 sixpences and shillings away after having seen the perform- 
 ance scores of times. The abnormal but prevailing craving to 
 see human life in jeopardy manifested itself here by offering 
 an extra reward to one of the divers to climb to the yard-arm, 
 and from a height of sixty feet to plunge into the water. This 
 is frequently done, but is said to be a very injurious practice 
 which soon ends the life of the diver even if an accident does 
 not kill him outright. 
 
> 
 
 O 
 ,0 
 
 -5 
 
 18 
 
274 INDIA TO EGYPT. 
 
 Seven hours' sailing in the early part of a beautiful moon- 
 lit nio'ht brouuht us from Aden to the strait of Bab-el-Mau- 
 deb, the southern portal of the Red Sea. The name signifies 
 " The gate of tears." A promontory over eight hundred feet 
 in height, of the same name as the strait, juts out from the 
 Arabian side. Twenty miles across are the rocky shores of 
 Africa, nearly four hundred feet high. In the channel, two 
 miles from the Arabian side, is a rocky island which divides 
 the strait. This island is occupied as a British fort. The 
 currents here are strong, and the place dangerous for small 
 vessels. The majestic scenery in the bright moonlight well 
 repaid for the little loss of sleep which the view of it cost. 
 
 The Red Sea is one of the most ancient bodies of water 
 mentioned in history ; but usually it occupies so small a place 
 on our maps that we are not likely to gain a correct idea of its 
 proportions until we become acquainted with it from other 
 sources than ordinary geographies. It is one thousand two 
 hundred miles in lenotli with an average width of but little 
 over one hundred miles. Its center affords a safe channel for 
 the passage of vessels, but its coasts are rendered dangerous 
 by many coral reefs. Its length, extending northwest and 
 southeast, forms the principal portion of the boundary between 
 the two continents, Asia and Africa. Much of the time the 
 shore is in view on one side or the other, but everywhere is 
 the same drear}^ appearance of rocky or clay clifls or sandy 
 desert beach. 
 
 The passage through the Red Sea is usually much dreaded 
 on account of the extreme heat that prevails, especially at the 
 time of year when the sun is overhead. At that time the 
 heated deserts on either side glow like ovens, and seem to 
 combine their forces upon the narrow basin of w^ater that lies 
 between. Deaths among passengers from the heat are not 
 ver}^ uncommon, and the sufferings of the poor men who have 
 
THE RED SEA. 275 
 
 to shovel coal into the fiery furnaces far down below the 
 water line can hardly be imagined. We were destined to be 
 highly favored, for the weather was not uncomfortably hot, 
 except during a very small period of our journey. But several 
 of the firemen, who are all of them negroes, w^ere brought to the 
 deck in a fainting condition, and were restored by having buck- 
 ets of cold water repeatedly dashed over them. The next morn- 
 ing after entering this sea, we found ourselves sailing before a 
 brisk southern gale. Suddenly we became aware that our ship 
 had lost its vigor, and soon, " The engines have stopped ! " " The 
 engines have stopped ! " passed from one to another. This is 
 always one of the most unwelcome episodes of ocean travel, 
 for there are such a multitude of contingent mishaps that may 
 appear as the cause that there is any amount of uneasiness 
 until the cause is explained. And then the knowledge that 
 we were in a narrow channel and drifting before a strong wind 
 out of our course did not relieve the situation in our minds. 
 Soon our vessel was "in the trough of the sea;" that is, it 
 was lying broadside to the waves and tumbling out of one 
 trough into another as fast as the troughs came along. The 
 calm assurance of the officers, who told us that we were all 
 right and w^ould be running in an hour, helped to put us at 
 our ease ; but that which gave us full assurance was to feel 
 once more the strong but almost silent pulse-beats of the great 
 iron heart of the ship, and to see our good vessel turn its 
 sharp prow into the waves and cleave them asunder as if it 
 were but sport. 
 
 From Thursday at midnight till Monday afternoon we were 
 on the Red Sea. Early Monday morning we entered the 
 western of the two branches into which the sea divides at its 
 northern end. This is called the Gulf of Suez, and it forms 
 one of the boundaries of the Sinaitic peninsula. Soon after 
 entering this most interesting tract of water, Captain Parfit 
 
27G INDIA TO EGYPT. 
 
 kindly invited me to his chart room, and took pains to point 
 out our location, which showed that we were within forty miles 
 of Mt. Sinai. Its top, seven thousand feet high, could not be 
 seen on account of an intervening coast range two thousand feet 
 in height. Soon we were sailing along the coast down which 
 the children of Israel must have passed in their march from 
 Egypt. Whatever the country may have been at that time, 
 it is certainly most dreary and uninviting now. It is easy to 
 understand from one's own experiences that they simply gave 
 way to the most natural kind of feelings when they complained 
 at being led out of the rich fields of Egypt into such a region. 
 But as it is our privilege to look above immediate surroundings 
 and live and walk by faith, so it was theirs. 
 
 In all the route visible from the decks of vessels there is 
 but one verdant spot, and that is called " Ain Mousa," or the 
 Well of Moses. It is a few miles from Suez, and consists of 
 a cluster of low palm trees and a pool of fresh water. By 
 some it is thought to be identical with Elim. Ex. 15: 27. 
 
 But of this there is no certainty. Just before reaching Suez, 
 on tlie west side, is pointed out the defile down which the 
 children of Israel marched when they Avere confronted by the 
 sea. But this is even more improbable than the tradition con- 
 cerning the other place. 
 
 Suez stands at the head of the gulf and at the southern 
 outlet of the famous Suez canal. Its harbor was beautifully 
 placid on that afternoon, and we could look down into the clear 
 water to a great depth. Our ship cast anchor, and we waited 
 for our turn to come to pass into the canal; for there are so 
 many vessels that order must be preserved, and A^essels move 
 only by orders from on shore, as trains move from station to 
 station by orders from the train-dispatcher. 
 
 The town is partly French and partly Arabic, and is de- 
 pendent upon the canal for importance and livelihood. Some 
 
JUGGLERY. 277 
 
 very clever jugglers came on board at this point and amused 
 us with their tricks, one or two of which were as follows : Tak- 
 ing a strij) of muslin four yards long, the juggler asked for a 
 knife with which he sawed the cloth in two in the middle. 
 The separated pieces were held u}) before us. A match was 
 lio'hted, and the ends of the cloth were set afire and then 
 quenched, but we could easily see where they had been 
 burned. Then holding the ends of the cloth behind him a 
 moment, he presented the piece of cloth whole without sign of 
 cutting or fire. He asked a passenger to show him a shilling, 
 which he took ; and after examining it a moment, handed it 
 back with the injunction to hold it tightly in his hand lest he 
 should lose it. He asked the Englishman if he had the 
 shilling. '• Yes," was the reply, and he exhibited it safely in 
 the palm of his hand. Again he was told to watch it closely 
 lest he lose it. After fumbling in his bag a moment, the 
 trickster again asked if he was sure he had the shilling. " Yes, 
 Aery sure," was the reply. "Well, look," said the juggler; 
 and lo. it was a half-penny. But none of us saw him touch 
 the man's hand, and no one was so much surprised as the 
 Englishman himself. In about two hours we received the 
 sitrnal for which we were waitino-, and soon were sailing across 
 a desert of sand instead of the waste of waters. 
 
 The dimensions of the canal are about as follows : Width 
 at the bottom, seventy-two feet; depth of water, twenty-six 
 feet; length, eighty-three miles. To prevent the wash of the 
 banks, no greater speed than five miles an hour is allowed. 
 At short distances apart are located turning-out places wdiere 
 a ship may lie close to the bank wdiile another passes. And 
 no vessel can pass one of these places unless permission is 
 given by a semaphore on the bank. The canal forms a con- 
 gested artery of commerce through Avhich the ships of all 
 nations are continually crowding, though one may have to look 
 
ifj 
 
 X 
 
 
 
THE GREAT CANAL. 279 
 
 a long time before he sees the stars and stripes. The stupen- 
 dous character of the undertaking becomes apparent as one 
 passes through the bug channel which is lined on each side by 
 a small range of sand mountains thrown out by the excavators. 
 And its maintenance gives employment to a large army of 
 workers of various crafts and callings. The controlling inter- 
 ests are in English hands, though direct management of the 
 business is under the French. 
 
 The country traversed by the canal is a barren waste of 
 sand, and from the decks of the vessels one may obtain 
 glimpses of desert Arab life in which wretched poverty, big 
 and little Arabs, and camels were mixed up in scenes of the 
 utmost desolation. How little we who live surrounded by all 
 that makes life pleasant realize the utter destitution in which 
 the lives of a great portion of earth's inhabitants are spent. 
 
 The town of Ismailia is located midway on the canal, and 
 at this point we took leave of the " Clyde." It was ten 
 o'clock in the evening when we reached the lake upon which 
 the place is situated, and the night was as " dark as Egypt." 
 A small launch came out for passengers and mail. A half 
 hour was sufficient to make the transfer from the decks of the 
 steamship to the genial comforts of a nice bed in a French 
 hotel. A railway runs the length of the canal, and at Ismailia 
 branches off to Cairo and Alexandria. 
 
 An American's first experience with a French breakfast is 
 apt to make a lasting impression, so I will relate mine. Being 
 a little more than usually hungry at the proper time, I took 
 my seat at the table upon which there was bread and butter. 
 I was alone in the dining room except for a solitary waiter. 
 Soon it became apparent that I was doing the principal 
 amount of waiting, and I called the young man's attention to 
 the fact that I would like some breakfast. He replied that I 
 was to help myself. But not being particularly fond of either 
 
280 
 
 INDIA TO EGYPT. 
 
 bread or butter, I intiiuatetl that it would be a proper thing 
 for him to bring on something to eat. He asked me if I de- 
 sired coffee, and when I tohl him. No, he was through, for he 
 said that was all that they had for breakftist, but that lunch 
 came at eleven o'clock. I w^as not in any condition to dally, 
 so I told him in simple English to bring me something to eat 
 if he had anything in the house ; and he being persuaded of 
 my honest intentions, I succeeded in making a comfortable 
 breakfast. AVith the P]ngiish, the heavy dinner in the evculiig 
 does not forestall the breakfast, though it is often fjuite 
 meager enough for one who insists upon eating his dinner near 
 mid-day ; but in French usage it seems almost to supersede 
 the idea of any breakfast. 
 
 Suez Canal. 
 
EGYPT. 
 
 tant. 
 
 [J2SMAILIA is a town of three thousand inhabitants, one 
 half of whom are Arabs^ and the other half French 
 who work for the canal company. About noon the 
 train left for Cairo, one hundred and forty miles dis- 
 A fresh-water canal connects the Nile and the Suez 
 canal at this point, and after a few miles of desert we struck 
 the fertile region along its bank's. It is utilized for light traf- 
 fic, but principally for purposes of irrigation. In Egypt there 
 appears to be but two qualities of land, one of which is barren 
 desert sand and the other is the most fertile and productive 
 soil to be found. The line of demarkation between these is so 
 sharp that one may step almost at a single stride from one to 
 the other. Wherever the influence of the beneficent waters of 
 the Nile reaches, there is life in an abundant measure 3 else- 
 where there is nothing but desolation. 
 
 As we enter this fertile strip, the words of inspiration 
 spoken in the days of Abraham come forcibly to mind. In 
 describing the beautiful valley in which wealthy Sodom was 
 situated, it is said that it was " even as the garden of the 
 Lord, like the land of Egypt, as thou comest unto Zoar." 
 The land is densely populated, and every individual is em- 
 ployed in extracting from the ground its liberal fruitage. The 
 various processes of agriculture are being carried forward at 
 the same time side by side. We could see the people plow- 
 ing, planting, cultivating, reaping, and threshing as we rodc^ 
 along in a comfortable railway carriage. 
 
 [ 281 ] 
 
282 EGYPT. 
 
 To the people of India, their sacred river is always 
 "Mother Ganges," and the great blessings which that noble 
 flood confers upon the thirsty land justify the endearing title. 
 But if this be true in the case of the Ganges and India, how 
 much more appropriately might the term " Father Nile " be 
 applied to this noble stream by the people of that country 
 which is not only moistened by its waters, but is nourished and 
 renewed by its contributions. This idea is beautifully repre- 
 sented in a piece of sculpture now in the Vatican Gallery, and 
 shown in the engraving. " Father Nile " holds in one hand a 
 sheaf of grain, in the other, a cornucopia, while his children 
 literally " live on him." Every acre of cultivable land is 
 apparently deposited from the Nile ; at least it is an alluvial 
 deposit; whether the result of the flood or of inundations 
 preceding or succeeding that convulsion, it is not necessary to 
 consider at this time. 
 
 Egypt is divided into the Upper and the Lower sec- 
 tions. The Avestern confines of the country extend into 
 the undefined and undisputed regions of the Great Desert. 
 South of the country lies the Soudan, Twelve or fifteen 
 years ago the southern border was located provisionally at 
 Wady Haifa, eight hundred miles from the Mediterranean. 
 The Upper Country depends solely upon the annual inunda- 
 tions of the river for irrigation ; and as there is but little or no 
 rain, only one crop is raised during the year. In the Lower 
 Country, however, and especially in the Delta region, there is 
 a perfect network of artificial canals, by which the water may 
 be distributed to nearly every rod of land. To get the water 
 out of the canals, the "shadoof," or bucket and sweep, is used, 
 as are also pumping-wheels turned by oxen, and many other 
 rude contrivances. Here three or four crops are harvested in 
 the year. By the first of November, the ground is dry after 
 the overflow, and then cereals are sown to be harvested in 
 
> 
 
 2 
 
 X 
 
284 EGYPT. 
 
 March. Sugar-cane, rice, and cotton grow from March to 
 September; and millet, sorghum, etc., from June to Septem- 
 ber, when the overflow comes on. 
 
 The river begins to rise at Cairo in the latter part of June, 
 and is at its height at the autumnal equinox. A twenty-four- 
 foot rise at this point is a favorable overflow. Four feet less 
 is very scant, and three feet more is a disastrous flood, to be 
 followed by fevers and murrain. At each overflow, there is 
 deposited all over the country about an inch of sediment, 
 which renews the soil year by year, so that it still responds 
 liberally to the husbandman's labor, though it has borne the 
 burden of a dense population from the remotest ages. Such 
 fticts probably prompted the inspired poet to write, " There 
 is a river, the streams whereof shall make glad the city of 
 God." 
 
 Since the Lord told Ezekiel to write the doom of Egypt, it 
 has been indeed " the basest of kingdoms," full of poverty, 
 ignorance, and darkness. From an exalted position among 
 nations, it became the fag-end of humanity, a victim of every 
 adverse fortune in the Eastern v^^orld. Every wind that blew 
 was ill for Egypt ; and her calamities reached a climax when 
 at last she fell into the hands of the Turks. This wretched 
 government, one of the most unprincipled and unscrupulous 
 that ever existed, blights everything it touches. Other na- 
 tions have stood up for some of her rights, and so Egypt is 
 emerging, to some degree, from the darkness into which she 
 fell, long. ago. 
 
 The road from Ismailia to Cairo is an exceedingly interest- 
 ing one, though rendered somewhat disagreeable by the un- 
 ballasted condition of the railway, there being no gravel to 
 keep down the dust which rises in dense clouds. But the 
 country is an ever-changing panorama of country life with a 
 crowded population busy delving in the soil. 
 
CAIRO. 285 
 
 Cairo was reached at dark, too late for inspection that eve- 
 ning, but upon looking abroad in the early morning, the view 
 caused feelings of surprise. Instead of a crazy Arab town, 
 moldering with antiquity and tumbling into ruin, there were 
 beautiful gardens, fine buildings, magnificent streets full of 
 busy life in such variety as greets the eyes in very few other 
 places upon earth. Cairo is a city of four hundred thousand 
 inhabitants, and in the winter season its delightful climate 
 attracts from Europe and America throngs of wealthy visitors 
 who fill its sumptuous hotels, and crowd its streets with their 
 gay equipages. Mingled with these are representatives of 
 every oriental nation near and remote, wearing the gaudy cos- 
 tumes peculiar to their countries. There are also native 
 elements of all classes. And stirred into the mixture is a 
 multitude of camels and donkeys. 
 
 A few street-cars are slowly hauled about without rails, 
 and there are carriages for the wealthy, but ordinarily the 
 traveler mounts a donkey. If he does not, it will not be the 
 fault of numerous donkey-boys who beset him to '" try General 
 Grant," or " ride Wellington," or " try Disraeli," or '' Glad- 
 stone," and will follow for blocks in the hope of inducing the 
 determined pedestrian to ride. Having decided to ride, he 
 easily bestrides his little porter and seizes the stearing gear, 
 while the motive is supplied by the owner who runs behind 
 armed with a stout stick with which he whacks the beast vig- 
 orously and induces quite commendable speed. The journey 
 finished, and the fare paid, the boy looks for another customer. 
 
 No attempt at description or imitation will give any just 
 idea of what a Cairo bazaar is like. Such a motley crowd of 
 pushing and shouting natives and foreigners; such a strange 
 mixture of kinds and colors, both in wares and people, it would 
 be difficult to picture even in imagination. The bazaars, old 
 Cairo, situated two or three miles up the river, the Mosque of 
 
o 
 
 CO 
 
THE PYRAMID IS. 287 
 
 Hassan, and the Citadel, are the most notable objects of inter- 
 est immediately at hand, though others of greater attraction 
 and importance are to be found not far away. 
 
 The Gizeh Pyramids are on the western border of the Nile 
 valley, seven miles southwest of Cairo. The road by which 
 they are reached is built up across the alluvial valley lands, 
 and is bounded on each side by a beautiful row of cassia trees. 
 The appearance of the pyramids as one approaches them is 
 not very impressive. Their age gives them from a distance 
 the appearance of great heaps of crumbling adobe ; but upon 
 closer inspection, their real proportions appear, and their 
 material proves to be durable rock. Some blocks have fallen 
 away and have been removed, causing the ragged appearance 
 from a distance. 
 
 The great pyramid is first reached. It is four hundred and 
 eighty feet high and seven hundred and sixty-four feet square 
 at the base. The area covered is about twelve acres. Most 
 visitors are anxious to accomplish the ascent. As the monu- 
 ment rises, each successive course of stones recedes, thus 
 forming convenient steps excepting that the rise of three feet 
 or more is too great for the measure of ordinary legs. But 
 there is a crowd of Arab guides, curiosity sellers, and beggars 
 at hand, each one anxious to sell his assistance for a small 
 sum, which generally goes up as the ascent is made. 
 
 For ages the significance of the great pyramids was a mystery 
 concerning which they themselves were as silent as the lips of 
 the Sphynx which keeps them company. But modern inquisit- 
 iveness has pried into their secret. A pathway was found to the 
 innermost recesses of the great Cheops, and at the extremity 
 of each passage were found the remains of ancient royalty. 
 Their sarcophagi contained not only the well-preserved mum- 
 mies of the family of that great king whose name has been 
 attached to his wonderful monument, but such other evidence 
 
288 EGYPT. 
 
 as enables the discoverers to identify the builder and thus 
 locate the time of its construction. 
 
 My ambition led me to explore the interior, rather than to 
 ascend to the apex. This required the assistance of three men. 
 The entrance, about thirty feet from the base, is a passage three 
 by four feet in dimensions. At first it descends at an angle of 
 about thirty degrees for sixty-two feet, then becomes level, but 
 so low as to be but little more than barely passalde. We then 
 ascended ninety feet to the mouth of the well at the bottom 
 of which is located the burial place of a daughter of the king. 
 From this point a level gallery leads to the chamber of the 
 queen. The " grand passage," six and a half feet wide and 
 twenty-six feet high, leads one hundred and fifty feet higher 
 to the sarcophagus of the king. Two flues here provide the 
 ventilation of which by this time we felt the utmost need. 
 The massive granite blocks which line the spacious chambers 
 are so closely joined as to admit of no mortar, nor can the 
 thinnest blade be thrust between them. It was a novel 
 trip, rather trying to nerve and muscle, but exceedingly 
 interesting. 
 
 Ten minutes' walk from the pyramids is the equally cele- 
 brated Sphynx, consisting of an immense image having the 
 head of a woman and the body of a lion. It was anciently an 
 object of worship, and its temple, now in ruins, stood near 
 by. This temple was the burial-place of its votaries, and the 
 numerous mummies found there now adorn various museums. 
 
 To the ethnologist and the antiquarian, the celebrated 
 Gizeh Museum, situated in a luxuriant garden on the road 
 to the pyramids, is one of the most inviting spots on earth. 
 The large building consists of forty galleries stored witli 
 sculptures, tablets, and implements of the most ancient times 
 in endless array. These tell a mute but vivid story of the arts 
 and customs of those times. One room is called the royal gal- 
 
The Sphynx. 
 
 [289] 
 
 19 
 
290 EGYPT. 
 
 lery, in which are arranged the mummies of the Pharaohs who 
 reigned over Egypt for more than two thousand years. As 
 they lie in their glass cases, they tell the visitor an eloquent 
 story without words, of earthly glory, which vanishes like the 
 flowers of the field that blossom for a moment, and are then 
 gone forever. The most interesting one to me was that of 
 Rameses II, the oppressor of Israel. His lips, teeth, and 
 entire countenance are still preserved, and one can almost 
 hear his words of defiance and cruelty. With what strange sen- 
 sations does one gaze into the features of a man who acted a 
 prominent part in sacred history previous to the exode ! 
 
 The beginning of Egyptian history extends back into the 
 misty regions of tradition ; but at the point where its lines 
 become legible, it reveals a nation standing at the forefront of 
 its contemporaries in power, vigor, art, science, or any other 
 element of greatness. In this position Egypt incurred the 
 divine displeasure for two reasons : She vaunted herself and 
 her gods in the sight of Jehovah ; and often became an asy- 
 lum and protector of the Jews, who when under punishment 
 for their sins, instead of humbling themselves with repentance, 
 would flee for help to their haughty neighbor. For these 
 things God said of Egypt, as recorded in Eze. 29 : 15, " It 
 shall be the basest of the kingdoms ; neither shall it exalt 
 itself any more above the nations." 
 
 Since then that country has had its share of adversity. 
 Each of the four great kingdoms of prophecy served itself of 
 Egypt, nor has she fared better at the hands of the Arabs and 
 Turks. Her natural resources have been better preserved 
 than those of any other portion of the ancient world, so that 
 the calamities which have befallen the unfortunate land are to 
 be attributed to political rather than natural causes. 
 
 It is not a little strange that the procession of knowledge, 
 enlightenment, and empire from east to west should leave 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 291 
 
 behind it such an array of blackened, unsightly ruins of de- 
 parted greatness. As in the natural world the advancement 
 of the day in the west brings night upon the Orient, so the 
 sun of liberty and progress shining high in our western 
 heavens has left the earlier world sitting in darkness. 
 
 Mohammedanism has swept away from Egypt her ancient 
 mythology. In the early centuries of our era, Christianity 
 thrived there. The Alexandrian Church furnished some of 
 the most distinguished of the " Fathers." The remains of 
 that movement now exist in the Copts. But what Chris- 
 tianity they may have had, disappeared beneath a thick sod 
 of superstition and human traditions. Mission work is prose- 
 cuted among them to some extent, and with some success. 
 
 The city of Alexandria, in the delta of the Nile, preserves 
 the name and memory of one of the most famous of ancient 
 warriors, Alexander the Great, who was its founder in the year 
 332 B. c. Thirty years before our era it fell into the hands of 
 the llomans at the time of its greatest splendor. From that 
 time it began to decline, for its treasures Avere taken to Rome, 
 and many of its inhabitants were victims of the imperial 
 cruelty. By the fourth century it is said that hardly an an- 
 cient building of note remained except the temple of Serapis. 
 In 389 A. D., this last stronghold of heathenism in the city was 
 destroyed, and a Catholic church was built among the ruins. 
 Alexandria thus became one of the chief seats of Catholicism 
 until it was taken by the Arabs in 638. Since then it has had 
 a checkered career of prosperity and desolation, but at present 
 it contains over two hundred thousand people, and is one of 
 the most important commercial centers on the Mediterranean. 
 
 Tourists spend little time here, but hasten on to other 
 regions. As in Cairo, so here to a more marked degree, the 
 prevailing foreign element in^ social and commercial circles is 
 French. In fact, throughout almost the entire coast of the 
 
292 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 Mediterranean Sea, he who understands and speaks the 
 French language will find plenty of opportunities to use it. 
 
 Upon a rise of ground in the edge of the city stands the 
 misnamed Pompey's Pillar. The shaft of this monument is 
 one stone of red granite, seventy-three feet long and over ten 
 feet in diameter. It stands upon a pedestal twenty-three feet 
 high, and wears a capital that weighs several tons. How it 
 came there is a question that puzzles modern engineers. 
 Alexandria also contained, until a few years ago, " Cleopatra's 
 Needles," twin obelisks, erected by Thothmes III, before the 
 time of Moses, in front of the temple of the sun at Heliopolis, 
 and removed to Alexandria by the Roman emperor, Augustus. 
 One of them now stands upon the Thames embankment in 
 London ; the other is in Central Park, New York. 
 
 
 
 Cheops. 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 pROM Egypt our journey takes us to that land toward 
 1^ which every Christian heart turns with interest, — the 
 land of Palestine. Among the most ancient travels of 
 which the Sacred Record gives account, a trip from 
 Egypt thither is recorded. Egypt and Palestine have heen 
 closely associated during the whole course of time. In olden 
 times the journey wa.s made by the slow stages of caravan 
 traA^el, hut now it is made by steamer in a single night. 
 
 Our boat from Alexandria was the " Selene " of the 
 Austrian Lloyd line, a staunch little craft of about eight 
 hundred tons. The captain w^as an Italian wdio spoke only a 
 few words of Eno-Ush ; but even in this scant knowlediie of 
 the language he excelled both his officers and crew, for they 
 could not speak a w^ord of English. While musing upon my 
 loneliness, I inadvertently spoke to a gentleman standing near, 
 who replied with an exclamation of joy that there w^as one on 
 board with wdiom he could converse. He was a civil engineer 
 on his way to Palestine to aid in -the construction of a railway. 
 
 The sea was delightfully smooth ; and as night came on, 
 there was scarcely a ripple on the face of the water. The 
 phosphorescence glowed more brightly than I had ever seen it 
 in any other water, and stretched away into a broad path of 
 light for more than half a mile in our wake. At the bow and 
 along the sides of our vessel it rolled in great fiery billows. 
 So quietly did the steamer ride that as we looked up through 
 the rigging at the stars, not a tremor could be discerned. Such 
 
 [293] 
 
.■P>>^".-«jC« 
 
 'Jl 
 
 a 
 
 < 
 
 A 
 H 
 
 z 
 
 C5 
 
A ROUGH NIGHT. 295 
 
 was my first night on the Mediterranean. A night that for 
 rare beauty and thrilling thought of the peace and majesty 
 of the works of God will not soon be forgotten. 
 
 Early in the morning we were in Port Said at the northern 
 entrance of the great canal. This place is the creature of the 
 canal, and for physical and moral cleanliness certainly does its 
 parent no credit. It is a coaling station for nearly all steamers, 
 and the chief characteristic of the town is coal dust. Coal 
 heavers of every shade and nation are there in great numbers. 
 Sailors, too, from various ships are on the streets. As the 
 town gains age, it will doubtless become more sober and steady 
 in its ways. During our brief stay we met several men of 
 ability and earnestness, and there are devoted Christian work- 
 ers doing what they can to withstand the tide of evil. Our 
 vessel remained here through the day exchanging cargo. By 
 the time we were ready to leave, the wind had risen from the 
 northwest, and as we emerged from behind the breakwater, 
 we received at once the full force of the waves. The night 
 being of itself not at all comfortable was rendered all the more 
 dismal because the fierce wind diminished our chances of land- 
 ing at Jaffa. The wind continued to rise, and by morning those 
 chances were so small that there was nothing left of them. 
 
 Upon coming on deck after a night of rough tossing, the 
 coast of Canaan was in sight, and soon we saw our desired 
 haven. We approached to within a mile or so of Jaffa, but the 
 waves were too high to admit of a thought of disembarking; 
 so the captain put his shij)'s head into the face of the storm, 
 and we very reluctantly saw the town fade from view. There 
 is no natural harbor at Jaffa nor has anything been done to 
 provide one. Just off the shore there is a ledge of rocks, 
 which in low tide, stand a little out of water, thus adding to 
 the difficulty, and making it impracticable to land when the 
 wind blows from the west or northwest. Some risks are 
 
o 
 
 
A EUROCLYDON. 297 
 
 taken, however, and the wrecks of two or three steamers lying 
 on the beach showed the foolishness of the undertaking. A 
 few days before we were there, a boat-load of forty passengers 
 and boatmen was dashed on the rocks, and over one half of 
 the number drowned. Under the circumstances we were 
 quite willing to forego the attempt, though the disappointment 
 was not small. After battling with the wind all day, at night- 
 fall we tried the harbor of Haifa, at Mount Carmel, but this, 
 too, was open to the weather ; and it was with no very com- 
 fortable feelings that we saw the ship once more turned toward 
 the wind and waves for a terrible night of pitching and plung- 
 ing. As we clung to our berths, the experiences of Jonah and 
 Paul came vividly before the mind, for we knew as never be- 
 fore what a Euroclydon is. 
 
 Happily by next morning the wind abated, and we made 
 the harbor of Beyrout, finding safe and quiet anchorage.. We 
 went ashore satisfied for once that we had had our money's 
 worth of ride, for we were at least one hundred and fifty miles 
 past our desired haven. Beyrout is the principal seaport of 
 Syria, a city of one hundred thousand inhabitants, and one of 
 the cleanest cities of the Orient. There is a mixture of na- 
 tionalities in the inhabitants, Turks and Arabs being predomi- 
 nant. The situation is picturesque, near the foothills of the 
 Lebanon Mountains, which at this time of the year (Decem- 
 ber), were covered with snow. The city is surrounded by 
 orchards, principally of figs, and by vineyards. It is the cen- 
 ter of active missionar}^ work, the American college and hos- 
 pital with a medical school being located here, and publishing 
 work is also carried on extensively in the Arabic language. 
 
 Beyrout is the outlet of Damascus ; and as there is a good 
 road, built by a French company, between these cities, much 
 heavy traffic by w^agon, camel, and donkey is carried on. The 
 mail is carried twice a day by diligence, or stage. A railway 
 
< 
 
 CO 
 
 a 
 
 C>1 
 
JAFFA. 299 
 
 is in process of construction, and will soon supersede to some 
 extent the. methods now employed ; though judging by what 
 is seen in other places, it is doubtful whether the camel-driver 
 will yield the field to the iron horse without a trial of merits, 
 in which the camel is likely to gain the victory for cheapness 
 of transportation. 
 
 To our joy a Russian steamer came along loaded with 
 pilgrims for Jerusalem about the time that we had taken a 
 good look at Beyrout. However, clouds in the west nearly 
 kept us from the attempt, as it, was not desirable to be taken 
 past Jaffa again; but the captain predicted a favorable landing, 
 and such it proved to be. On our trip we had fine views of 
 Mount Carmel, on Avhich Elijah offered the test sacrifice, and 
 from which the servant of the prophet overlooked the sea 
 and perceived the cloud the size of a man's hand. The coast 
 and city of Caesarea Philippi, to which Peter was called by 
 Cornelius, and where Paul was taken before Felix and Festus, 
 were also in plain sight. 
 
 As arrangements for the trip through Palestine had 
 been made in advance, everything was in readiness. After 
 landing at a rickety wharf and passing the Turkish customs, 
 we waded through the filth of what at first seemed to be a 
 back alley, but upon further acquaintance proved to be one of 
 the principal streets of this ancient city. It was nearly half a 
 mile to the place where the carriages were left, because the 
 narrow, crooked streets would not admit of their being brought 
 nearer to the landing place. The hotel was a homely place, 
 with rooms which bore the names of the twelve tribes of 
 Israel. No sooner had we reached the hostelry, than my 
 dragoman was introduced to me, and I was informed that after 
 dinner we would take the train for Jerusalem. But as we 
 had an hour or two before that time, we started ofi' to visit the 
 house of Simon the Tanner (Acts 10 : G), and a few other 
 
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 v''-.^. 
 
 Jz^'*--/:v '-^ 
 
 
 [300 J 
 
 David's Towek, Jerusalem. (See page 96.) 
 
JAFFA. 301 
 
 points of interest. Some features served to identify the 
 house ; there were stone steps to the housetop. A very 
 ancient well was in the court, near which were several tan- 
 ners' stones made smooth as glass for dressing leather. It 
 overlooked the sea, but after all it did not seem very real. 
 
 That Avhich was most deserving of attention at Jaffa was 
 the forest of orange and lemon trees which surrounds the city, 
 and which at this time Avere loaded with luscious fruit. Such 
 orange groves I have not seen in any other country. 
 
 Near the center of the city is an open space used as a 
 market, in which the various products of the country are 
 exposed for sale in lots to suit customers. Fruits, grains, 
 vegetables, meats, wood, and sundry utensils, are mixed in a 
 conglomerated confusion, and each little lot is watched over 
 by its owner, whose face beams with joy at the slightest pros- 
 pect of a customer. It is remarkable with what patience the 
 keepers of those little stalls in all oriental bazaars will wait for 
 the unusual occurrence of some one coming along to trade 
 with them. 
 
 Upon Jaffii, as upon all the country, there is spread the 
 stifling incubus of Turkish imbecility and inactivity. The 
 flight of centuries has seen no improvement in methods of 
 work or in the condition of the people. Camels and donkeys, 
 dogs and dirt, are the inseparable accompaniments of native 
 life and business, and the wretched government will make no 
 changes for the better nor suffer any one else to do so. 
 
 About two o'clock we were off to Jerusalem by rail. The 
 little narrow-gauge railway had been in operation about a 
 month at this time, and to go there in safety was the excep- 
 tion rather than the rule. The road was rough and the car- 
 riages uncomfortable. Here I was brought for the first time 
 into practical acquaintance with Turkish officers, as I occupied 
 the same apartment with several of them. Civility was evi- 
 
[302] 
 
 Citadel Mosque, Cairo. 
 
JERUSALEM RAILWAY. 303 
 
 dently something of which they had not the slightest compre- 
 hension. Their vile tobacco-smoke was very offensive, and 
 the idea that they were discommoding some one was equally 
 gratifying to them. The barrier of strange speech prevented 
 my understanding the jokes which they were having at the 
 stranger's expense, and perhaps prevented their hearing one 
 or two at their expense. This circumstance is only mentioned 
 because it represents the whole fabric of the Turkish govern- 
 ment, which is in the eyes of all the enlightened world a 
 travesty on good government, justice, righteousness, or any 
 quality which commands the respect of mankind. 
 
 Emerging from Jaffa, we are soon crossing the plain of 
 Sharon which lies between the sea and the hill country, and is 
 at this point perhaps twenty miles in width, though the rail- 
 way makes more than that distance in crossing it. There are 
 several small stations, the principal of which are Lydda and 
 Ramleh. This portion of the country is still under cultivation, 
 and every available rod of the land is occupied. Some of 
 these farmers are Arabs, and some are German colonists, quite 
 a large number of whom are located in this and other sections of 
 the land. Among the Arabs the primitive methods and tools, 
 such as are seen in old Bible pictures, are still in use. Their 
 teams are often ludicrous misfits, being perhaps a donkey and 
 a camel, or a cow and a camel, or any other combination which 
 the means at hand will allow. The ground is divided into 
 small parcels, often consisting of a fraction of an acre, and each 
 man's land is separated from his neighbor's by an imaginary 
 line marked by small heaps of stones. This custom, too, has 
 come down from ancient days, for in Moses' time the Lord pro- 
 nounced a curse upon the man who should remove his neigh- 
 bor's landmark. 
 
 When at last the hill region is reached, we begin to ascend 
 through a narrow valley, often between lofty heights; and 
 
304 ALEXANDRIA TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 much of the way the road passes through interesting scenery, 
 rendered all the more so at this time by the well-known unsafe 
 condition of the rails upon which we were running. This hill 
 country, which composes the Avhole of Palestine except three 
 or four small plains, is as barren as one can well imagine any- 
 thing to be that is not an out-and-out desert. The hijls are not 
 rugged but regular, with round tops and gradually sloping 
 sides, steep in some places, it is true, but still bearing the 
 marks of cultivation. Many of the stone terraces which sup- 
 ported the earth where grew the vines, trees, and grains in 
 ages gone by, are still there, and bear witness to a fruitful- 
 ness and glory that is altogether departed. These terraces 
 extending to the summit of the hills, show that in the days of 
 its prosperity the land was indeed beautiful and goodly, bring- 
 ing forth abundantly for the great population which it sus- 
 tained. 
 
 Our train reached the station at Jerusalem at about five in 
 the evening. We were still outside the walls, and one half a 
 mile from the gate on the west side of the valley. A comfort- 
 able carriage conveyed the passengers to hotels, of which there 
 are several that offer a very good degree of comfort. Of these 
 but one is inside the city walls. Jerusalem as it now is, is a 
 very good place to dwell outside of. We read of the New 
 Jerusalem that " without are dogs, liars," etc., but in this case 
 they are inside, as well as out. There being more room out- 
 side, it is the more desirable side of city life in Jerusalem. 
 
 From the upper verandas of the hotel at the northwest 
 corner of the city, our first view of the city and its surround- 
 ings was obtained. The sun was just above the western 
 horizon. In every direction a charming panorama was spread 
 out. Involuntarily came the. words of inspiration : " Beautiful 
 for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion, on the 
 sides of the north, the city of the great King." The desolate 
 
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306 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 state of the country being veiled by twilight, it was compara- 
 tively easy to imagine the hills and valleys covered and lilled 
 with busy throngs of happy and contented people. The filth 
 and degradation of the city were readily forgotten for the 
 moment, as a picture of peace and glory rose before the mind, 
 and it was not difficult to perceive why the Lord had chosen 
 such a place, so highly blessed, as the temporary abode of his 
 people and the symbol of that future home which he has prom- 
 ised to them that love him. 
 
 A short walk throus^h the Jaffa o:ate w\as all we had time 
 for that night, for darkness soon settled down, and the city 
 wastes no money on artificial illumination. 
 
 We shall not stop at this time to take a closer view of the 
 city, for there is a pleasant party of three American gentlemen 
 ready to start early in the morning for the Jordan Valley and 
 the Dead Sea, and for the privilege of their company we con- 
 clude to start with them. 
 
 House of Simon, Jaffa. 
 
ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 
 
 E composed three separate outfits, each one accom- 
 S panied by a dragoman, two soldiers, a mule and 
 muleteer, a donkey and dbnkei/teer. Travelers, drag- 
 omen, and one half of the soldiers were provided 
 with horses, while the rest of the soldiers went on foot. The 
 mules and the donkeys carried food, baggage, etc. Since the 
 days of early boyhood, horseback-riding had been laid aside as 
 one of the things I could not do, and would not do if I could. 
 But now there was no other alternative except a mule palan- 
 quin or staying at home, neither of which was to be enter- 
 tained. 
 
 Our route lay along the northern walls of the city around 
 to the eastern side and then across the Kedron Valley past 
 Gethsemane, and around the south side of the Mount of Olives 
 to Bethany, and from there down into the defile that leads to 
 Jericho. At the very mention of these names by our guides, 
 our hearts burned within us as we thought of their sacred 
 associations. It all seemed so dreamlike to be traversing the 
 ground and viewing the scenes so celebrated in sacred story. 
 As we did not pause to inspect them then, we shall not now, 
 but pass on with the company. At the foot of the deep 
 descent, having reached the bottom of the valley perhaps two 
 miles beyond Bethany, we came to a fountain called the 
 Apostle's Fountain. A stream of living water flows from a 
 crevice of a rock in the hillside, and goats, camels, and pil- 
 grims hovered around it for a chance to quench their thirst. 
 
 [307] 
 

 .■:■ -ri"-? 
 
 
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 **. \ 
 
 *:. 
 
 '•■-, %* 
 
 ■ <--• 
 
JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. 309 
 
 It was a comfort to drink of this water, for it was on a road 
 over which our SaA'iuur had passed mure than unee, and without 
 doubt he, too, had stopped at that place for the same purpose. 
 
 The road to Jericho descends nearly four thousand feet 
 from Jerusalem, but it is not all down grade. About noon, as 
 we were ascending a hill, in a gorge to the left was pointed 
 out the place where the man fell among thieves and was left 
 in a dying condition, as alluded to by our Saviour in his para- 
 ble of the good Samaritan. A little farther along was a Jihan 
 called the Good Samaritan Inn. It consists of a small square 
 surrounded bv a stone wall ten or twelve feet hi"h, havinii; an 
 entrance next to the road. Across one side of the enclosure 
 is a roof covering a row of sheds, or deep stalls, in which peo- 
 ple may eat their food, or make up their beds fa- the night, 
 while the animals are tied around the walls of the enclosure. 
 There are, also mangers in the stalls where beasts may be fed. 
 We stopped here fo^ dinner. It was in such a i:)lace that 
 Christ was born. 
 
 Pursuing our journey, we approached the precipitous edge 
 of the Jordan Valley alonu' the chasm thromrh which flowed 
 the brook Cherith where Elijah was hidden. This gorge is 
 very deep, and our road often brought us so near the edge 
 that from our horses we could look down into the dark depths 
 far below. All this country through which we passed is now 
 a desolate wilderness without a tree and with scarcely verdure 
 enough to support any animal life, though a few goats and 
 camels do eke out a living there. For more than half of the 
 way from Jerusalem to Jericdio there is a good carriage road, 
 built, as we were told, b}' the government ; but suddenly the 
 energies of the Turks were exhausted, and for the most of 
 the remainder of the way there is nothing more than a well- 
 worn trail, though in places some work has been expended on 
 the road. 
 
310 ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 
 
 After making the nipid descent into the valley, we left the 
 trail, turned to the left, and crossed the brook, which is a 
 lim}tid little stream, and rode two miles northward. This 
 took us across what is well reputed to be the site of ancient 
 Jericho, the city which Avas destroyed in the days of Joshua. 
 There is but little to indicate that a city has stood there 
 except a smooth plain of rubbish and debris which resembles 
 brick and stone turned to dust together. Beyond this inter- 
 esting spot we came to another clear stream of water larger in 
 volume than Cherith, and this we followed a short distance 
 to its source where it gushed in a copious fountain from the 
 foot of a high hill. This is called Elisha's Fountain, and is 
 identified with the sacred story in 2 Kings 2 : 19-22. The 
 men of the city came to Elisha saying that the situation of the 
 city was pleasant, but the water was naught and the ground 
 barren. He called for a cruse of salt which he cast into the 
 water, and it was " healed unto this day." That these last 
 words were true, w^e proved, for at the close of a rough day's 
 ride taken with great discomfort, it was a refreshing relief to 
 dismount, and in the good, old-fashioned way stoop down and 
 drink from the pure stream. 
 
 A mill was in process of construction a few rods below for 
 which the spring is to furnish the power. This fountain is 
 less than ten miles from the Dead Sea, and doubtless partook 
 of the bitter character of its w^aters until the power of God 
 sweetened it. Two miles to the southeast brought us to the 
 more modern Jericho of our Saviour's time, the ancient Gilgal, 
 where was located the camp of Israel and which for some time 
 was the abode of th^ tabernacle. 
 
 Two or three houses and some Arab huts are all that com- 
 prise this village. One of the former is a comfortable inn 
 kept for tourists. Here we remained two nights visiting the 
 Dead Sea and the Jordan in the day between. 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
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 n 
 c 
 
312 ROUND ABOUT JERUJSALEM. 
 
 Starting out early in the morning, the placid waters of the 
 Dead Sea were in plain sight, and owing to the clearness of 
 the atmosphere, it seemed but a short distance to its shores ; 
 but it proved to be very much farther than we thought. All 
 the way this alluring deception was kept up even to the last 
 quarter of a mile. 
 
 It is a fact quite generally known that the surface of this 
 salt lake is one thousand and three hundred feet lower than 
 that of the Mediterranean Sea. Ascending from Jaffa to 
 Jerusalem, w^e rise two thousand six hundred feet, and going 
 on to the Dead Sea we descend three thousand nine hundred. 
 This small basin, forty-five miles in length and nine in width, 
 receives the waters of the Jordan and a few other small tribu- 
 taries ; and though it has no outlet, there is no increase in 
 the volume. The theory is that evaporation keeps pace with 
 inflow. Toward the north end there are high and precipitous 
 banks on the east and west. Between its waters and those 
 that are poured into it there is a very wide difference in every 
 respect. Those of the Jordan are far from clear, while the 
 sea is singularly pellucid. When the turbid stream strikes 
 the sea, its waters are carried at once to the bottom, where 
 all their silt is deposited. But while these were previously 
 sweet, upon their introduction to the sea they become acrid to 
 a degree that is almost venomous. Having a desire to test 
 their quality, I essayed to taste them cautiously. None passed 
 the mouth, and but little got that far. A sensation was left, 
 however, that pervaded my being with a shudder. While ocean 
 water is thirty parts in one thousand salt, the Dead Sea water 
 contains two hundred and fifty parts salt or eight times as 
 much. Mingled with this is a strong impregnation of salt- 
 peter and of asphaltum, which is very abundant, and also sev- 
 eral other pungent and disagreeable qualities. On the banks 
 of this sea grow the famous apples of Sodom, beautiful on the 
 
AN EXAMPLE. 313 
 
 outside but bitter to the tase, and when mature, filled with 
 a dry fiber and dust which have generally been called 
 ashes. 
 
 By the Arabs the sea is called the Ba/ir Loot or sea of Lot. 
 It is popularly supposed that its waters cover the site of Sodom 
 and Gomorrah. But of this there can be no knowledge. We 
 know that these cities lay in the valley of the Jordan, and 
 when Lot and Abraham were at Bethel, where they separated, 
 it is said that Lot chose the plain of Jordan; that he jour- 
 neyed east ; and that he "pitched liis tent toward Sodom." 
 From this it is by some inferred that these cities were farther 
 north than the Dead Sea. 
 
 But it is evident that God did not design that their site 
 should be known, since their fate w^as emblematical of the final 
 destruction of the ungodly. The apostle Jude says : " Even 
 as Sodom and Gomorrha, and the cities round about them in 
 like manner, giving themselves over to fornication, and going- 
 after strange flesh, are set forth for an example, suffering the 
 vengeance of eternal fire." Jude 7. Of what they are an 
 example another sacred writer tells us: '•Turning the cities 
 of Sodom and Gomorrha into ashes condemned them with an 
 overthrow, making them an ensample unto those that after 
 should live ungodly." 2 Peter 2 : 6. Thus we learn what is 
 meant by eternal fire. It is a fire that is eternal in its conse- 
 quences. Those cities w^ere utterly exterminated so that even 
 their place is forgotten. They only live in history as a 
 reminder of what will be the fate of those who reject the gos- 
 pel of Christ, and choose to live ungodl}^ lives. Of their 
 destruction we read, " The Lord rained upon Sodom and Go- 
 morrah brimstone and fire from the Lord out of heaven." 
 Gen. 19 : 24. And of the final punishment of the wicked it is 
 said, " And fire came down from God out of heaven and de- 
 voured them." Rev. 20 : 9 
 
a 
 < 
 
 a 
 a 
 
DEAD SEA. 315 
 
 Theil3 is in the dreadful fate of those wicked cities an 
 awful warning to the impenitent sinner. Not of an eternity 
 spent in conscious suffering, but the utter extinction of being, 
 in the destrojnng elements. In harmony witli this is the 
 scripture : " For, behold, the day cometh that shall burn as 
 an oven ; and all the proud, yea, and all that do wickedly, 
 shall be stubble ; and the day that cometh shall burn them up, 
 saith the Lord of hosts, that it shall leave them neither root 
 nor branch." Mai. 4:1. 
 
 The northern end of the lake is easily accessible, and a 
 beautiful pebbly beach stretches far in each direction. It is 
 usual for travelers to bathe in the clear M'aters, the specific 
 gravity of which is so great that they easily support the body 
 of the bather. 
 
 Turning from this interesting place, we rode about six 
 miles to the northward and a little east, till we came to the 
 banks of the Jordan at the place called the Ford, where it is 
 reputed that the baptism of Christ took place. The appear- 
 ance of this noted stream, celebrated in sacred story and song, 
 was such as to cause no small degree of disappointment. In- 
 stead of a clear stream flowing rapidly over smooth stones, 
 there was a deep, murky river whose banks were a mire of 
 clay, into which one could not venture except at the risk of 
 getting into the mud to his knees. A growth of underbrush 
 lines the banks, but there was nothino- in siaht that deserved 
 the name of timber, nor any signs that there ever had been 
 any. If it was such a stream as this in the days of Naaman, it 
 is not to be wondered at from a human point of view that 
 he chose his own clear Abana and Pharpar rather than the 
 turbid Jordan. But it is in every w\iy likely that the river 
 like the country at large has suffered from the curse and con- 
 tamination of sin. The soft banks of yellow sand and clay are 
 continually yielding to the inroads of the river's wash. Such, 
 
316 ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 
 
 at least, was its appearance at that point at the time of onr 
 visit. And there was no evidence that it would have been 
 more favorable at another time. We sat here to eat our lunch^ 
 while some of our company risked a reputation for cleanliness 
 by bathing in the thick water, though how to get the mud off 
 their feet after leaving the water, was a serious question. 
 
 Another ride of eight miles brought us back to our hotel in 
 good season. The valley at this place is about fifteen miles in 
 width, with the river somewhat east of the middle. The soil 
 seems to be an alluvial of sandy clay, unproductive and barren 
 except for a growth of low brush upon which large herds of 
 camels feed. Riding being a painful exercise, I was forcibly 
 reminded of a ditty we sang when boys, to the effect that 
 "Jordan am a hard road to trabbel." On our way I fell con- 
 siderably behind the rest of the party, when I soon found my- 
 self in the edge of a drove of more than one hundred camels. 
 Like most of the other natives, they seemed to take a deep 
 interest in the stranger, and proceeded to view me at close 
 range, but whether their interest was in me or in my horse I 
 could not tell. Whichever it was, it led to no demonstrations 
 of ill-will, and we were allowed to pass out of their admiring 
 circle in peace. Some beautiful specimens of oranges were 
 growing in a garden at Jericho, one of which, the finest I 
 have ever seen, I carried several days before I found time and 
 courage to attempt its disintegration. 
 
 An early start in the morning on our way to Jerusalem 
 brought us out of the valley while yet the stars were shining. 
 We reached Bethany a little after noon, and paused for refresh- 
 ments in an olive grove near the edge of the ancient village. 
 This road is the one over which Jesus passed on his way from 
 Jericho when he went to raise Lazarus. As it emerges from the 
 deep valley, a curve around the point of the hill brings the vil- 
 lage into view. It was doubtless very near where we stojjped 
 
BETHANY. 317 
 
 for rest, that Martha met the Saviour with the words, " Lord, 
 if thou hadst been here, my brother had not died." It was 
 Avithin sight of our position that the scene at the sepulcher 
 took pkxce. Taking out my Testament, I read John 11 with 
 an interest I never before felt. Blessed promise ! " I am the 
 resurrection and the life ; he that believeth in me, though he 
 .were dead, yet shall he live." The resurrection is the gate of 
 the endless life. lie who came to save mankind conquered 
 death and carried to heaven the keys of death and the grave. 
 Nor is life promised through any other means except through 
 a resurrection from the dead. How many precious ones are 
 sleeping on the hill-sides and in the valleys of Judea ! Soon 
 they will come forth at the call of Him who hath said, " I will 
 come again." 
 
 Bethany probably retains its primitive character as well as 
 any other town in that country. Looking at it, any one would 
 imagine that no changes had been wrought in it for two thou- 
 sand years. Its houses are stone hovels of a not very inviting 
 appearance to those accustomed to modern dwellings. Its 
 streets are mere lanes. The place of Lazarus's burial is pointed 
 out as a deep and almost inaccessible hole in the ground or 
 rock, but like many of the definite localities now pointed out, 
 it gives no satisfaction to any but the most credulous. Send- 
 ing our horses by the road, we took the shorter path to the 
 city, which passes over the top of the mount. Here, too, we 
 could realize that we were closely following the literal foot- 
 steps of Jesus. Though many changes have taken place in 
 superficial appearances, still the main outline of the country 
 remains the same. 
 
 The elongated height east of Jerusalem is divided by a 
 slight depression into Mount Scopas to the north and the 
 Mount of Olives to the south. The latter is also divided, for 
 the southern extremity is sometimes called the Mount of 
 
[318] 
 
 Absalom's Pillar. 
 
CITY SURROUNDINGS. 319 
 
 Offense because Solomon there built altars to please his idola- 
 trous wives. On the western side of Olivet are the tombs of 
 the prophets. And in the valley of Johoshaphat are pointed 
 out the tombs of James, of Zechariah, and the pillar of Absa- 
 lom. The latter still stands quite well preserved, and accord- 
 ing to the Jewish traditions is the one spoken of in 2 Sam. 
 18 : 18. It is frequently though incorrectly referred to as 
 Absalom's tomb. It shows marks of great age. The base 
 of the pillar is perhaps ten feet square and hollow. An aper- 
 ture about a foot in diameter has been broken through one 
 side. Into this, devoted Jews in passing cast a stone, ex- 
 claiming, '" Cursed be every son that disobeyeth his father." 
 From time to time these stones are thrown out. 
 
 But it is time to look at the city and its immediate sur- 
 roundings. The city proper is enclosed with a stone wall in 
 a good state of preservation. This wall is perhaps thirty feet 
 in height, and was built by Suleiman " The Magnificent," a 
 Turkish pasha, in 1542. It is pierced by seven gates : The 
 Jaffa gate on the west, which is the principal one ; the New 
 gate, Damascus gate, and Herod's gate on the north ; St. 
 Stephen's on the east; the Dung gate, and Zion's gate on the 
 south ; the latter being at the southwest corner of the walls. 
 The walls are two and a half miles in length. In form the 
 city is an irregular square originally built on four hills, two of 
 w^hich, Zion and Moriah, are prominent in Biblical history. 
 The former is in the southwest and the other in the southeast 
 portion of the city, with the Tyropean Valley running between 
 them. But this celebrated valley has been mostly filled with 
 the debris of successive destructions and rebuildings. 
 
 The city is naturally divided into four quarters, of which 
 the northwest is called the Christian quarter ; the northeast, 
 the Mussulman, or Mohammedan quarter ; the southwest, the 
 Armenian, while the T3^ropean valley is occupied by the Jews. 
 
320 ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 
 
 Mount Moriah is covered by the Ilarani, or temple area, which 
 is still enclosed by a wall stijjarating it from the rest of the 
 city, and forming on the sonth and east the city wall. 
 
 The Dung gate on the south is in the Tyropean valley, and 
 receives its name from the fact that through it the refuse of 
 the city was formerly taken into the valley of Hinnom below, 
 where it was destroyed by fires that were kept perpetually 
 burning. It is from this circumstance that we have the name 
 Gehenna, \\\\\q\\ in the New Testament is called " hell," and 
 which affords an illustration of the punishment of the wicked 
 in unquenchable fire, since those fires continued to burn as 
 long as there was anything for them to prey upon. But they 
 effectually destroyed that upon which they preyed. 
 
 Zion's gate is celebrated in the Bible and in sacred song. 
 Just outside of it is a pile of buildings called David's tomb, 
 held in high veneration by both JNIohammedans and Jews. 
 Although in possession of the Mussulmans, the Jews are 
 allowed to visit the place and pray one day in each month. 
 In the massive j^ortal of this edifice is a small gate large 
 enou(>:h to admit a man, called the Needle's Eve, and referred 
 to as the one which our Saviour had in mind when he spoke 
 of the impossibility of a camel's going through the eye of a 
 needle. But this is a senseless claim since the gate is a com- 
 paratively modern one, and that was not his meaning. It is 
 insisted that it would be an impossibility for a camel to go 
 through the eye of a needle. Very true. It would also be 
 impossible for a camel to go through this little door-way, and 
 equally so for covetousness to enter heaven. 
 
 In this building is pointed out the room where Christ ate 
 the last passover with his disciples ; but this, too, is an evi- 
 dent fraud. We saw the apartment in which the women con- 
 gregate to worship. Across the entrance was hung a heavy 
 chain. To an inquiry as to its purpose, the guide gravely 
 
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 HBTWE* rfa«Hu«-«re& -^^ * *"* 
 
 
 31 
 
822 ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 
 
 OJ-j 
 
 re})lie(l lliat it was to teach them humility, as they must stoop 
 very h)w upon entering. I saw no chain across the men's 
 entrance. ^ 
 
 The Jaffa gate is the principal point of entrance and exit 
 of the city. To this place several omnibuses from the suburbs 
 run, and there is always congregated around it a crowd of car- 
 riages, donkeys, camels, horses, men, and women. Farther 
 than this carriages do not go, for no carriage or wagon can 
 enter Jerusalem. The streets are too narrow to admit of their 
 passage, and too rough if they were wide enough. Donkeys 
 and camels are ridden through the streets, which are many of 
 them crowded with people sitting or walking. 
 
 Just outside the Damascus aate on the north, is a little 
 mound called the Place of a Skull. It is perhaps thirty feet 
 in height, of a circular form, and has no buildings, but is coa^- 
 ered with Mohammedan graves. It is believed by many that 
 this is the real site of the crucifixion, and to a disinterested 
 party it seems much more probable than does the site chosen 
 by the churches, of which we shall speak later. 
 
 The New gate, near the northwest corner, is so called be- 
 cause it had been opened for modern convenience. Just 
 inside are the extensive buildings of the Roman Catholic 
 Church, and just without are others of the Greek Church. 
 
 St. Stephen's gate, on the east, is the one through which 
 we pass on going from the city to the Mount of Olives ; the 
 place between the east walls, and the bottom of the Kidron 
 Valley is covered with Mohammedan graves. Passing down 
 the road across the dry bed of the brook, one se6s numerous 
 leprous beggars sitting by the wayside begging. As they 
 hear footsteps approaching, — for many of them are 1)lind, — 
 they set up a most pitiful wail of distress. " Cowajie, cowa- 
 jie, backsheesh " was the cry that became familiar to my ears, 
 though it is likely that this is not a correct rendering. They 
 
LEPERS. 323 
 
 hold up their huiidless stumps, or point out their hideous 
 deformities and appeal in the name of God for "backsheesh," 
 that is, a present. And if their importunities appear not to 
 be heeded, they mingle tears with their wailing cries. The 
 sight of their wretchedness is touching, and though I passed 
 them many times, I took pains to have something with me 
 with which to stop their cries. 
 
 Such cries often greeted our Saviour's ears, and with what 
 pitying compassion he imparted the healing gift ! Leprosy 
 is a striking emblem of sin. They are diseases which no 
 human power can reach, and both inevitably end in a terrible 
 death. Jesus Christ to-day is ready to hear the leper's call. 
 With ready response he answers, " I will ; be thou clean." 
 
 A mile or so to the north of the city are the " ash hills." 
 They are mounds of ashes from the temple altars. These are 
 now being carted away to be used for mortar in building. But 
 to my mind they were one of the most satisfying relics that 
 are to be found. Of their authenticity there can be no reason- 
 able doubt, and they bear a testimony to the reliability of the 
 accounts of the temple service which cannot be gainsaid. 
 And having established that part of the sacred writings, they 
 confirm all that pertains to those services which form the cen- 
 tral figure of the past dispensation. It was no small satisfac- 
 tion to delve in those ashes for bits of charred bones, which 
 were easily found ; and a piece of a snuffer, almost reduced to 
 rust, rewarded our search. These trophies are indeed ancient, 
 having been deposited there for a period of at least two thou- 
 sand years. Still farther north are found the tombs of the 
 kings, an interesting place to visit, showing clearly the mode 
 of ancient sepulture. 
 
[324] 
 
 Street in Jerusalem. 
 
JERUSALEM AND BETHLEHEM. 
 
 NTERING the city at the Jaffa gate, we see at our 
 right a strong stone tower now occupied by Turkish 
 soLiiers, called the tower of David. Nothing is origi- 
 nal about it unless it be simi:)ly the foundation stones. 
 Here the street of David starts and runs through to the temple 
 area. This is the main street of the city About half way 
 across the city and to the left is the Church of the Holy Sep- 
 ulcher. The building presents nothing on the exterior to 
 indicate the magnificence of its interior. But it sacredly 
 guards what to the superstitious minds of its devotees are the 
 most holy localities on earth. This church has been so often 
 described that much time will not be spent upon it here. 
 
 The building covers a large space of ground, and includes 
 not only the reputed sepulcher, but also the place of crucifix- 
 ion, of scourging, and several other scenes of Christ's sufferings. 
 Different portions of the church belong to three or four sects, 
 the two Catholic churches having by far the most advanta- 
 geous points. 
 
 The Greek Church possesses many points of advantage 
 over other churches in and about Jerusalem, and behind her it 
 is easy to discern the power and influence of the Russian gov- 
 ernment. They hold the sepulcher, which is a marble mauso- 
 leum built under the main dome of the church. To reach it 
 one passes through a low door into a small compartment called 
 the "Angel's Chapel," where we are told that Mary met our 
 Saviour after he had risen. Passing through a still lower door, 
 
 [325] 
 
326 JERUSALEM AND BETHLEHEM. 
 
 we enter the principal room of the sepulcher, a little cell with 
 a marble box across one side, which is pointed, out as the 
 burial-place of Christ. A priest sits hy with a bowl of holy 
 water with which he sprinkles those who enter and will accept 
 his services. 
 
 There was at this time a constant stream of pilgrims 
 thronging this spot, some of whom had come many hundred 
 miles to visit the place. With hysterical grief or joy, they 
 would clasp their arms about the marble slabs and confess 
 their sins. Leaving, they felt that they had done the one 
 great deed of their lives. 
 
 Standing there for a few moments and watching them, I 
 could hardly repress the words of the angels, — " Why seek 
 ye the living among the dead? He is not here ; but is risen." 
 At the various shrines were weeping worshipers, who not 
 only left their tears, but also liberal gifts of money, for the 
 reception of which a bank is maintained within the church. 
 On a ledge of rocks in another part of the church are shown 
 three holes, two of which are covered with brass plates, and 
 the other with a silver plate. The latter marks the spot 
 where stood the cross of Christ, and the others locate the 
 crosses of the thieves. In another apartment is the tomb of 
 Melchizedec, and on the wall is a rude painting of the skull of 
 Adam. In this way w^e might enumerate enough similar ex- 
 hibitions of folly and superstition together with idolatrous 
 rites and ceremonies to fill quite a volume. 
 
 When one has seen this collection of knavish impositions 
 carried on in the name of reliuion as veneration for Christ, he 
 does not so much wonder at the skepticism of reasonable men 
 who have been brought in contact with only these phases of 
 a mock Christianity. There is no place in heathendom where 
 idolatry is more flagrantly carried on and religious humbug 
 more boldly practised than at the spot where the Author of 
 
UNPLEASANT CARICATURES. 327 
 
 Christianity is supposed to have laid the foundation of our 
 faith. The head becomes sick and the whole heart faint in 
 view of such deeds, and the puerile stories witli which Jerusa- 
 lem abounds. 
 
 From the church eastward to St. Stephen's gate runs the 
 Via Dolorosa, or Way of Sorrow, over which it is reputed that 
 Jesus passed on his way to the crucifixion from Pilate's pal- 
 ace, which is said to \va\q stood very near this gate. The 
 same impositions are displayed here. At frequent intervals, 
 occur places marked as sacred by some circumstance of that 
 sad march. Three times Christ is said to have fallen under 
 the cross, and each place is marked by deep indentations in 
 the stone paA^ements, though it is well known that the original 
 pavement is many feet beneath the present one. At another 
 place a deep mark in the wall shows where he fell and struck 
 his elbow. But this is sufficient. It is not pleasant to dwell 
 on these caricatures of that most precious life, those deepest 
 sufferings, and the hollow mockery of the most elevating relig- 
 ion the world has ever seen. 
 
 Access to the temple enclosure can be obtained only by 
 permission of the authorities and under guard of a Turkish 
 soldier. The platform is approached through a lofty arcade 
 by stone steps which still bear marks of past grandeur. The 
 enclosure consists of several acres, in the midst of which 
 stands the most noble building in Palestine, the Mosque of 
 Omar, built over the " dome of the rock," which is supposed 
 on srood arounds to be the threshinor floor of Araunah, and the 
 place where Abraham Avas told to offer Isaac. It is an octag- 
 onal building surmounted by a majestic dome, which on the 
 inside is lined with mosaics. No stranger is allowed to ap- 
 proach the carefully guarded mosque, except when escorted 
 as before mentioned. As partial supports to the dome there 
 are twelve pillars of variegated marble, each different from the 
 
r>r%-ri 
 
 s 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
MOSQUE OF OMAR. 329 
 
 others. These are said to have belonged to the temple of 
 Solomon. The rock in the center is surrounded bv a stone 
 fence and bears the deep impress of a huge foot-print which 
 we were told was that left by Mohammed when he ascended 
 from earth to heaven. A staircase leads down into a cavern 
 excavated in the rock which is said to have been the granary 
 of Araunah, and concerning which the Mussulmans have nu- 
 merous superstitions, legends, and beliefs. Indeed these tra- 
 ditions are characteristic of the whole place. 
 
 One thing to which our attention was called in this cellar 
 was of peculiar interest. Upon stamping on the floor a hollow, 
 ringing sound was produced as if we were standing over an 
 empty cistern. But there is no apparent opening to this inner 
 cavern. The Jews have a tradition that the prophet Jeremiah 
 deposited the ark of the testament in this place. It is said to 
 have mysteriously disappeared at the time of the Babylonish 
 destruction of the temple, and the Jews insist that it was not 
 destroyed but secreted by Jeremiah. It would be a matter of 
 great interest to have the place investigated, and I was told 
 that Captain Wilson, the celebrated English explorer, procured 
 a decree from the sultan, authorizing him to open the place, 
 but when it w^as presented at the mosque, the local authorities 
 would not allow the search to go forward. 
 
 At the southern end of the enclosure is an old Crusader's 
 church, which has been converted into a mosque called the 
 Mosque of El Aksa. It is a vast, gloomy structure, through 
 the archways of which the monotonous tones of priests at 
 prayer may often be heard. The southeast portion of the 
 temple platform was built up from the valley of Jehoshaphat, 
 and instead of filling it up with soil, the pavement is sup- 
 ported by arches and pillars. Of the latter there are said to 
 be one thousand. This place was discovered and excavated 
 by Captain Wilson about 1875. It formed the stables where 
 
330 JERUSALEM AND BETHELEM. 
 
 King Solomon kept his horses and some of his stores. The place 
 is about two acres in extent, and bears every mark of great 
 age. There are in its walls some of the huge stones placed 
 there in the time of Solomon, and remains of the mangers and 
 the holes in which the halters were tied may also be seen. 
 
 On the southwest corner of the temple enclosure, and out- 
 side the walls but inside the city walls, is the wailing place of 
 the Jews. At this point the wall is perhaps thirty feet in 
 heidit, and some of the lower rows of stones are said to be of 
 the original building. If so, they were probably the top rows, 
 for the wall extends seventy feet and more below the present 
 surface of the street. Some of the abject houses in which 
 the Jews live in this wretched region are thirty or forty feet 
 below the street, showing to some extent how the city has 
 been filled up with ruins. 
 
 At the wailing pbice the Jews assemble, especially on Fri- 
 day afternoon, to lament their condition and the desolation of 
 their city and temple. The place devoted to weeping is about 
 fifty yards in length. The people range themselves along the 
 wall, leaning their heads against the cold stones, or standing 
 and reading some portion of Scripture, or praying, and thus 
 pour out their lamentations. The seventy-fourth psalm is one 
 that is much read, and it will be seen that it most vividly sets 
 forth their pitiful situation. The women, especially, work 
 their feelings up to a liigh pitch, and become hysterical in their 
 grief. Their weeping is no pretense, but genuine tears flow 
 down, and with wringing of hands they cry as if their hearts 
 were broken. The scene touched my heart, and I longed for 
 the power and privilege of pointing these darkened souls to 
 that true Light thjit shineth for all the world. The Lord they 
 seek is nigh to them, and stands with pitying love ready to 
 have compassion upon his ancient people when their hearts 
 shall turn to him. 2 Cor. 3 : 15, 16. 
 
INHABITANTS. 331 
 
 The streets through which approach is made to this spot 
 are among the most filthy in the city, which is saying much. 
 They have no supply of water except such as is taken from 
 the roofs or caught in pools in the scanty rains. Consequently, 
 as for sewage or sanitary systems, the city seems to have 
 none at all, not even of the primitive kind enjoined by the law 
 of Moses. 
 
 The population of Jerusalem is variously stated. It is said 
 to be sixty thousand, by those who live there, though the 
 latest reliable statistics give it scarcely more than forty thou- 
 sand. Of this number, which is doubtless sufficiently large, 
 there are, it is said, twenty-five thousand Jews. This num- 
 ber includes not only the people who live inside the walls, but 
 in the newly built suburbs as well. The German colony lies 
 to the west of the city, the English to the northwest, and the 
 Russian principally to the north. In this direction are also 
 the refugee Russian Jews who were driven to this country by 
 the persecution of the Russian government. 
 
 For a time there was a large influx of Jews to their 
 native land ; but there was such a cry raised against their 
 return bv the Turkish inhabitants, that the sultan forbade 
 their settling in the land or obtaining any real estate therein. 
 Under pressure from other powers, these measures have been 
 modified somewhat. One thing is very noticeable, and that is 
 the prevailing impression that according to the prophecies of 
 the Scriptures, the Jews are to return to Palestine, their polity 
 is to be restored, and they are to become once more the fa- 
 vored people of God. The Jews are not at all reluctant to 
 accept such an interpretation of the Scriptures as this, and 
 they seem to have become thoroughly impressed with the idea, 
 so far as they have been brought at all under the influence of 
 these teachings. Those Christians who accept this theory 
 connect with it the reiun of Christ in his kin&cloin during the 
 
GATHERING OF THE JEWS. 333 
 
 millennial period, with headquarters at Jerusalem. This, of 
 course, the Jews are not so willing to receive. 
 
 But the whole theory rests upon a foundation that has lit- 
 tle or no ground in the Bible. It is true that in the Old Tes- 
 tament many special promises were made to Judah and to 
 Israel. Their dispersion was foretold, and their final gather- 
 ing together. But their continued and repeated rejection of 
 God, their rejection and crucifixion of the Son of God, and the 
 disdain with which they refused the gospel, filled to overflow- 
 ing the cup of judgment, and they were cut off from their 
 special privileges as the people of God. The Lord himself 
 declared that he was no respecter of persons. The Jews were 
 broken off like the branches of the olive tree, and the Gentiles 
 graffed into their place. There is but one way of salvation, 
 both for Jew and Gentile, and that is through faith in Christ. 
 The Lord still proposes to gather his people, but not in old 
 Judea. There is a city whose builder and maker is God, the 
 New Jerusalem, the " many mansions " which our Saviour has 
 gone to prepare. That will be Christ's capital, and the final 
 gathering of God's people \vill be in that city rather than in the 
 sterile and worn-out regions of Jerusalem, the child of bondage. 
 
 If the Jews become the people of God, it will be in the 
 same way that others do, by individual faith in Christ and 
 repentance for sin. All who come in this way will be re- 
 ceived ; none others will. Their returning to Palestine will 
 not constitute them heirs of God's kingdom, for the Lord has 
 not so changed his nature as to lose his abhorrence of sin, nor 
 have the Jews changed so that by nature they are any more 
 the j)eople of God than others without the renewing and con- 
 verting influence of the grace of Christ. If they abide not in 
 unbelief, God is able to graff them in again. 
 
 But from a worldly standpoint there is no present prospect 
 of a return of the Jews as a body to the land of Palestine. 
 
334 JERUSALEM AXD BETHLEHEM. 
 
 There are, it is estimated, over fifteen million Jews, and of 
 these less than fifty thousand, or less than one in three hun- 
 dred are there ; nor is there any perceptible desire on their 
 part to go there as long as they can live in peace in any other 
 country. One leading Jew said in reference to the matter, 
 that if the restoration of the Jews to Palestine should ever 
 come to pass, he should petition to be sent as minister to 
 Paris. There is nothing in Palestine to attract people except 
 the needy condition of the people who live there in darkness 
 and degradation. Missionary efforts are being put forth for 
 them and not without some success. 
 
 It would not be correct to state that the Jews have no 
 aspirations for obtaining possession of their old home, it is nat- 
 ural they should have, though they may well take into account 
 that two obstacles stand in their way, which from a human 
 standpoint, are insurmountable. In the first place, the Turks 
 have possession, and they are exceedingly jealous of their 
 prestige and unfavorable toward the Jew. In the second 
 place, Russia does not conceal her designs upon the Holy 
 Land, and the claim of the Jew to his fatherland will not 
 stand a moment in the way of her carrying out her long- 
 cherished design. Nor is Russia more kindly disposed to the 
 Jew than is Turkey ; both regard the claim of the Jews to the 
 land as inimical to their highest interests. 
 
 In every place of vantage the Greek Church is intrenching 
 itself in Palestine, especially so about Jerusalem. And in its 
 aa'OTessive work there is not the slightest room for doubt that 
 it is backed up by the wealth and prowess of Russia. 
 
 Six miles nearly south from Jerusalem, on the highway to 
 Hebron, is the town of Bethlehem, celebrated as the birthplace 
 of our Saviour. I availed myself of the opportunity of being 
 there on Christmas eve, at which time there are extraordinary 
 ceremonies and the place is full of pilgrims and sojourners. 
 
BETHLEHEM. 335 
 
 By the wayside about two miles from Jerusalem, is oue of 
 the most celebrated monuments of the land. It is called 
 Rachel's tomb^ as being the burial-place of the favorite wife of 
 Jacob. From the account of her death in Genesis 35, we learn 
 that it occurred when '' there was but a little way to come to 
 Ephrath," and that Ephrath was Bethlehem. They were 
 traveling southward, hence it must have been very near this 
 spot that her death occurred. This tomb is mentioned in the 
 sacred record after this, and it .is claimed by the Jews to have 
 been sacredly preserved. Bethlehem, like the other cities of 
 this country, has narrow and filthy streets, though the town is 
 quite well preserved. The Church of the Nativity is in the 
 southern portion of the city, which* necessitated our driving 
 through the place. On the way we met another carriage, but as 
 there was not room for the two vehicles to pass, there followed 
 a lively colloquy between drivers and dragomen, which ter- 
 minated in the other outfit backing up to a corner, and then by 
 their crouching as closely in the angle as possible and nearly up- 
 setting our conveyance, we managed to pass. Through the 
 crowds we made our way directly to the church, which was the 
 center of interest. The building is an unpretentious one on the 
 outside, and might be taken for a huge grain warehouse. It is 
 entered through a door so low as to require one to stoop con- 
 siderably. We first found ourselves in a spacious and lofty 
 room, empty except for the rows of massive columns which 
 support the roof. This was the church built by the Crusaders, 
 and in it Godfrey Bouillon was chosen king of Jerusalem, 
 though he declared he would not "wear a crow^i of gold in the 
 city where his Lord wore one of thorns. Off from this room 
 open the other apartments pertaining to different sects, for this 
 church, like that of the Holy Sepulcher, is held in joint own- 
 ership by Latins, Greeks, Armenians, and Copts. The Latins, 
 or Roman Catholics, are masters of ceremonies on this occa- 
 
m 
 m 
 
 W 
 
 CO 
 CO 
 
TURKS AS PEACEMAKERS. 337 
 
 sioii; and the services are in their portion of the church. 
 While each body owns its exclusive share of the building, 
 they have a common interest in the grotto where the birth of 
 Jesus is reputed to have taken place, and each sect has 
 hours allotted in which its members have exclusive privileges 
 in the little vault which is held so sacred. And here is exhib- 
 ited the fanatical folly of those worshipers in a scene which 
 puts the Christian name to blush. The way to the cavern 
 which is said to be the birth-place of Christ is through a large 
 corridor and down winding stone stairs into a grotto hewn in 
 stone and festooned with richest drapery, which glitters with 
 precious metals and jewels. Here are the reputed manger, 
 the place where the wise men presented their offerings, and 
 other points of equal interest. 
 
 But stationed here are a number of Turkish soldiers. 
 What are they here for ? They have no interest in the worship. 
 They are necessary to keep these devoted (?) people from mur- 
 dering each other. But their presence is not sufhcient to re- 
 strain the angry passions, for blood is often shed in their 
 strife over the possession of the relics of a baseless supersti- 
 tion. A few days previous to my visit a bloody fracas took 
 place in which the inflammable material was nearly all burned 
 out of the place by the upsetting of tlie lamps. IIow any one 
 can for a moment imagine that this is the place wdiere the 
 lowly Jesus was born, or that it bears any resemblance to it 
 passes understanding. 
 
 On Christmas eve, or rather mornino- for the ceremonies do 
 not begin until midnight, after a long time spent in prayer, 
 the new-born babe, which is a wax doll, is brought forth from 
 the manger and carried in solemn procession first through 
 the church and then out through the town amid great excite- 
 ment and enthusiasm. The one who personates Mary the 
 mother receives the adoration of the deluded crowd. 
 23 
 
338 JERUSALEM AND BETHLEHEM. 
 
 My dragoman was born a Jew, but had been converted to 
 Christianity, and though a poor man, was one of intelligence and 
 uprightness. In passing through the town he frequently re- 
 marked, ''Cleanliness is next to godliness." This remark 
 was caused by the omnipresent filth. As we rode back to 
 Jerusalem, he was enjoying his cigar which was quite a con- 
 stant companion with him. Suddenly he broke the silence by 
 saying, " Will you tell me why you never smoke nor use 
 tobacco ? " " Yes ; " I replied, " it is because ' cleanliness is 
 next to godliness.' " I then spoke of some passages of Script- 
 ure in which it is said that we are " the temple of the Holy 
 Ghost; " that we should "glorify God in our body and spirit 
 which are his ; " that " if any man defile the temple of God, 
 him will God destroy," etc. Therefore, as a Christian, I could 
 not indulge in a practice that was hurtful to health, a useless 
 waste of money, and was of itself nnclean. There the matter 
 dropped. But three days later, he told me he had not smoked 
 since that evening, and never should do so again, a promise 
 which I learn he has since kept. 
 
 The return journey to Jafta was made by carriage from 
 Jerusalem, a method greatly to be preferred to the railway. 
 Leaving Jerusalem in good season, we took an excellent road, 
 and after about six miles passed the village of Emmaus, which 
 sits upon a hillside. Thus f^ir the w\ay is descending ; but 
 here we cross the bottom of the valley, and after climbing a 
 sharp hill for some distance, pass a tower built by the Crusa- 
 ders from which they obtained their view of Jerusalem, the 
 goal of their march, but which they could not reach in that 
 expedition. Descending into another valley, we are in Kir- 
 jath-jearim, celebrated often in Bible history, and said to be 
 the home of the two thieves that were crucified with Christ. 
 It bears evidence of having been a place celebrated for its 
 beauty. 
 
ICHABOD. 
 
 339 
 
 At noon we reached the edge of the plain of Sharon, and 
 halted for dinner at a rude inn j but as we had our own pro- 
 visions, all that was required was table room. After lunch we 
 crossed what is called, on doubtful authoritv, tlie valley of 
 Ajalon, and came to Ramleh where another halt was made to 
 rest the horses. Here is a quaint mosque. After this place 
 we came to a town said to be Timnath of the Philistines. 
 Having had a good night's rest in Jaffa, we were ready for the 
 vessel which was to take us back to Port Said. 
 
 It was with no particular regret that we saw the shores 
 fade away in the distance, for though those appointed to care 
 for travelers had done their duty kindly, still those whose lives 
 and presence hallowed the land are no longer there. Lebanon 
 and Hernion stand like two headstones at a orave one hundred 
 and fifty miles long, where glory and prosperity lie buried, and 
 "Ichabod" is written over the tomb. "The Pleasant Land" 
 was once a fitting type of Paradise restored, but the likeness 
 has faded out under the blight of sin, to be restored onl}^ when 
 Christ comes with all his saints to make the beautiful new 
 earth their eternal home 
 
ITALY. 
 
 ETURNING to Alexandria, it was found that the 
 steamer " Cathay " was to sail for Naples that day ; 
 and so transferring to that steamer, w^e were soon 
 headed for the "toe of Italy." Leavimr Alexandria 
 on Friday, we expected to get into Ncaples on Monday, but in 
 this we were somewhat disappointed. The Mediterranean Sea 
 is noted for its beauty and praised for its calmness, but some 
 people who traverse it will remember it in a difterent way. It 
 was my fortune to S4:)end ten nights upon its waters, and six of 
 them would hardly be worth living over again. These nights 
 were the worst I have ever experienced at sea. At times 
 thunder and lightning, rain, hail, and snow were combined at 
 once with a fierce northwest wind, to render the night hideous 
 even on land, but much more so on the seething sea. The 
 depths to which our ship would plunge at times would seem to 
 preclude for the moment the idea of her coming to the surface 
 again. We had four nights of this on that trip, and it was 
 suflicient for most of us ; so that when the steamer reached 
 Naples, every passenger left her, though she was to proceed 
 to Genoa, and several had tickets for that port. 
 
 We obtained our first sight of Europe at Cape Spartivento, 
 and then coasted west for the Strait of Messina. Soon, over 
 the port bow, we caught sight of Mt. ^Etna, piercing the 
 clouds with its sharp cone ; and between the clouds we could 
 often see the smoke and vapor pouring from the crater. For 
 a few moments only, the clouds would roll back and reveal the 
 
 [341] 
 
342 ITALY. 
 
 monster in his mio;ht. The base of the mountain is liirdled 
 with green timber ; its top is mantled Avith snow, while a long- 
 stream of smoke and steam poured from the summit. 
 
 At the same time that ^tna was in view, off to the star- 
 board between us ;ii)d tlie l;md appeared a sight of which we 
 often read, but which few obtain, — a genuine waterspout. It is 
 a western cyclone at sea. There was the black, greenish cloud 
 above, the funnel-shaped, revolving cloud below extending to the 
 surface of the sea. It was moving eastward and would not touch 
 us, but there was a small sailing vessel directly in its path. 
 With great haste they changed their sails and turned their 
 course to escape, if possible, the threatened destruction. 
 From our ship bombs were continually fired with the hope of 
 " breaking " the terrific storm. Great volumes of water were 
 drawn up into the cloud, which fell in torrents upon the sea 
 and neighboring land. It was an impressive sight and an 
 anxious time; but the little ship made good use of her sails, 
 and before the spout reached her, it was broken, whether 
 because it had spent its force or from the concussions of the 
 bombs could not be told. We were now in the lee of land, 
 and really enjoyed the pleasant sail through the narrow strait 
 which separates Sicily from the mainland. Villages and 
 towns lined the picturesque shores on either side. 
 
 After leaving the strait, the Lipai"i Islands gave us shelter 
 from the northwest gale, and we began to imagine that we 
 should have one calm night. We soon came in sight of 
 Stromboli, one of the islands, which is a noted volcano. It 
 rises from the sea like a giant haystack, and slopes to the 
 water's edge all round. It was active, but a cloud of vapor 
 clung to its brow, so that we did not obtain a good view. 
 There is a village clinging to its base, which seems to be 
 threatened with the angry sea on one side, and a fiery monster 
 on the other, with no chance to escape if there should be a 
 
ARRIVAL. 343 
 
 violent outbreak. It would seem that such a situation could 
 have but little attraction as a dwelling-place, but there are 
 people who appear to enjoy thus jeopardizing their lives. 
 Coming out from the lee of these islands, we received the full 
 charge of the gale, and resigned ourselves to what proved to 
 be the worst night of all. 
 
 "Sunny Italy" did not maintain the fair reputation which 
 she enjoys at a distance for soft skies and balmy air on that 
 January morning when we entered the Bay of Naples in a 
 fierce snow-storm. The few glimpses we obtained of the pict- 
 uresque bay were suthcient to confirm our ideas of its natural 
 beauty, but that which caused the greatest pleasure was the 
 calm waters of the well-protected harbor. Here our ship at 
 last settled down to rest, and it was wdth peculiar gratitude to 
 Providence that we walked the decks in peace, and contem- 
 plated going ashore. The deep-seated wish that we might 
 never again have to go to sea is still well remembered, thouuh 
 pleasanter experiences since then have shaken our firm 
 resolutions never to do so except for the purpose of getting 
 home. 
 
 As soon as the clouds had sufficiently dispersed, our first 
 care was to obtain a view of Vesuvius, about nine miles dis- 
 tant. It was lazily pouring forth a column of smoke, and at 
 dark put on a nightcap of fire. No small disappointment was 
 caused by our inability to pay a visit to the crater, the way 
 being blocked up by snow, during the time allotted for our 
 stay at NajDles. 
 
 It is hardly worth the traveler's while to spend much time 
 in Naples. The National Museum, Mount St. Elmo, the 
 aquarium, and a few of the churches are all that will at- 
 tract his attention. The former is most interesting and in- 
 structive for its stores of mementoes in the classical arts. 
 Especially are Pompeii and Herculaneum well represented, 
 

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NAPLES. 345 
 
 but a visit to the museum of their relics does not satisfy one's 
 curiosity when the remains of the towns themselves are so 
 close at hand. 
 
 But we must not leave this celebrated city without a few 
 glimpses at its ordinary sights. The first thing we noticed 
 was the quite common custom of ladies' going on the streets 
 without any headgear, and this in spite of the cold weather. 
 Fully half the ladies one meets on the streets and cars have 
 no hats or bonnets. It must be confessed that it is largely a 
 matter of custom, for in many instances hats and bonnets are 
 only an excuse for what they profess to be, their presence 
 adding nothing to the comfort of the wearer. It was amusing 
 to see the milkmen going about from door to door and milking 
 the cow in sight of the customer. In certain parts of the 
 city macaroni is manuftictured in large quantities. It is made 
 of wheat meal with the bran removed ; this being made into a 
 paste with hot water, is forced through molds which run it into 
 small pipes. It is then hung up to dr}', and for this purpose 
 large areas of the broad streets are used. For some distance 
 the sidewalks will be almost blocked, and every vacant space 
 will be filled with this most popular food of the Italians. All 
 kinds of wheat are not adapted to the manufacture of maca- 
 roni, that which is rich in gluten being necessary. Cheaper 
 grain than wheat is mixed in some of the inferior grades which 
 are sold to the poor classes, with whom it is the principal arti- 
 cle of diet. Macaroni is a healthful food. The Italian cooks 
 are very adept in its preparation, although some of their 
 concoctions are rendered indigestible by cheese and con- 
 diments. 
 
 Herculaneum is about four miles south of the main part of 
 Naples, beneath the suburbs of Portici. This is the second 
 town that has been built on the site of the buried city. 
 Entering a vestibule off the street, we paid a small fee. and 
 
POMPEII. 347 
 
 then tlescended eighty-five feet through solid L^va rock to the 
 stage of the ohl theater. Nearer the seashore the lava flow 
 was not so deep, and excavations have laid open the ruins of 
 houses. 
 
 But the ruins of Pompeii far exceed those of Herculaneum 
 in interest. These are ahout twelve miles from Najtles, or 
 eight miles beyond Herculaneum. As the latter place lay 
 nearer to the mountain and nearer to the sea, a storm of lava 
 seems to have overwhelmed it ; but Pompeii was more remote 
 from the mountain on a plateau at some distance from the sea. 
 Instead of being covered with lava, it was buried in ashes and 
 scoria, which the wind seems to have blown in this direction. 
 This matter is light and easily removed, since the covering ex- 
 tends but a few feet above the tops of the walls and houses-. 
 
 The terrible eruption which overthrew these cities oc- 
 curred in A. D. 79. Pompeii is two miles in circumference, 
 and was built of low houses, very few of which were more 
 than two stories in height. The material in which it was 
 buried was so fine that it penetrated everywhere, even into 
 the smallest crevices and the deepest cellars. This in a few 
 hours Mthfully stereotyped and hermetically sealed Roman 
 life at that time. The details of their social life and customs 
 are thus perfectly revealed in object-lessons which we know 
 to be true to life. The streets are not wide, the widest being 
 thirty feet, and many of them less than half of that. The 
 deep ruts cut in the pavements by the chariot wheels are still 
 there, and it is usual to see the stepping-stones in the middle 
 of the street, to which one can easily step from the footpath, 
 thus crossing a street at two steps. Some of the houses and 
 many of the relics are mute witnesses of the deep wickedness 
 of the people. There is a museum within the walls which 
 contains many remarkable illustrations of their lives, and 
 especially of the terrible manner in which i\\ey met their 
 
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THE AQUARIVM. 349 
 
 death. There are skeletons of people and dogs perfectly pre- 
 served, showing plainly the agony of the death with Avhich 
 they w^ere so suddenly overtaken. 
 
 The aquarium in Naples is of such interest that no one 
 should miss the opportunity to see it. The Mediterranean 
 Sea, which is rich in aquatic and marine life, is well repre- 
 sented here. We are wont to regard life at the bottom of the 
 sea as of a dreary nature, and certainly it would have but little 
 charm for us in our present make-up ; but we must by no 
 means suppose that the world in which we live contains all 
 the beauty. It will be the greatest surprise to those who have 
 no knowledge of those things to see with their own eyes the 
 dwellers of those mysterious depths clothed in the most gor- 
 geous robes, and possessing forms of a delicacy which nothing 
 in this upper world approaches. Filled with admiration and 
 wonder, I looked long and eagerly at this, to me, new display 
 of the wisdom and goodness of God. There were living and 
 movino; creatures of considerable size, with form and substance 
 so delicate that their presence in the clear water could only be 
 detected by their outlines and the fact that they were in mo- 
 tion. There were many which exhibited wonderful wisdom in 
 their arrangement, and both plant and animal life exhibited 
 the most exquisite hues and shades of color. 
 
ROME. 
 
 TIE journey to Home was made liy rail in four and a 
 lialf hours, in a comfortable railway carriage built on 
 tlie Enulish plan. This city was reached in the even- 
 inu', and our a i<it beiian with a very pleasant niuht\s 
 rest at the Continental Hotel near the station. This is in the 
 northern and new portion of the city, called the Stranger's 
 Quarter. Here the buildings are modern, the streets broad, 
 and many of the edifices are imposing. There are numerous 
 gardens, statuary, and, what is the peculiar glory of Rome, 
 beautiful fountains. Street-cars, well reo:ulated, run to difter- 
 ent parts of the city, and in eyery way, Rome has been made, 
 since the close of papal rule, worthy of its j^lace as the capital 
 of united Italy. But Rome is not particularly yalued for her 
 modern improyements and her cleanly appearance, though they 
 claim attention. It is as the city of some of the most famous 
 monuments of ancient and medi^eyal times, of pagan and papal 
 history, that Rome stands unique and far beyond all other 
 cities of the globe. To the student of history she stands 
 prominent before all other places on earth as the scene of 
 many of the most important episodes of the world's history. 
 
 But its description is now giyen by so many trayelers that 
 we shall not attempt an extended account of her yast treasures 
 of past ages. In the southeastern j)art of the city is situated 
 a small yalley between the Palatine, Quirinal, and Capitoline 
 Hills, eyery step of which causes the heart to bound witli thrills 
 of sensation that border on yeneration. This tract yaries in 
 
 [ 350 1 
 
THE COLOSSEUM. 351 
 
 width, but is perhaps one hundred yards wide on the average, 
 and is aljout one third of a mile in length. At its eastern ex- 
 tremity stands the Colosseum; at the western, the Capitolino 
 Hill; on its southern border stands the Palatine Hill; and on 
 its northern border, the Qairin;'.! Hill. Through the center 
 runs the Via Sacra, or Sacred Way. This way slopes upward 
 IVom the Colosseum to the middle of the historic tract, where 
 it is spanned by the Arch of Titus, and then descends to the 
 valley in wliich lie the Forum and its rostrum and the Basilica, 
 or Church uf Jiili.i. 
 
 The Colosseum is perhaps the most notable ruin iu Rome, 
 at least its appearance makes it the most conspicuous. It was 
 begun by the Emperor Vespasian, and finished by Titus in 
 A. D. 80. It was at first called the Amphitheater of Flavins, 
 Init received its present name later from the colossal statue of 
 Nero which stood near, the ruins of the pedestal of which still 
 remain. The Iniilding is an ellipse measuring two hundred 
 and five bv one hundred and seventy yards. A considerable 
 portion of its walls still remain. Where they retain their 
 full height it is one hundred and fifty-five feet. This im- 
 mense building had no roof. There were four tiers of seats, 
 the lower of which was occupied bv the nobility. Remains 
 of the balcony which was occupied by the emperor may 
 still be seen. The gradations of society descended as the 
 seats ascended, until in the fourth row were seated the ple- 
 beians, or conimuu people. These looked down upon the 
 cruel sj:)orts iii the arena from a height of nearly or quite one 
 hundred and fifty feet. There were seats for eiahtv thousand 
 people, and standing room for twenty thousand more. The 
 opening carnival of this theater lasted one hundred days, and 
 was attended with a sacrifice of fifty thousand beasts. There 
 are subterranean ways through which beasts and gladiators 
 were led into the arena. The arena was also elliptical iu 
 
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 23 
 
354 ^OME. 
 
 form, and measured two hundred and eighty by one hundred 
 and seventy-four feet. There are many rooms beneath the 
 floor of the arena, and here an idea may be obtained of the 
 massive character of the foundations. Since boyhood I had 
 read of these famous ruins, but after all was not prepared for 
 a sight of such impressive vastness and magnificence. And 
 not the least impressive was the thought of the many thou- 
 sands who had here given their lives as a testimony of their 
 unvieldins;' faith in Jesus. 
 
 The famous Aj^pian AVay starts from the Arch of Constantino, 
 which stands very near the Colosseum. It is an old Roman 
 road running to the south and southwest. Over it St. Paul 
 w^as brought to Ptome in captivity. It is lined with celebrated 
 ruins, the most renowned of which are the majestic buildings 
 of the Baths of Caracalla and the catacombs. The latter are 
 subterranean burying-places consisting of passageways cut in 
 the rocks, perhaps thirty feet under ground, which ramify in 
 every direction, crossing each other at every angle. They are 
 very extensive. There are some chambers in which early 
 Christians used to meet for w^orship. It is a dreary place to 
 visit, and one cannot repress the nervous fear that the guide 
 will lose his way, in which case escape w^ould seem impossible. 
 One is therefore generally glad to reach the surface again. 
 Put we will return to the Via Sacra. Leaving the Arch of 
 Constantine, which was mostly built by the destruction of that 
 of Trajan, a better man than Constantine, we ascend a gentle 
 slope toward the w^est, having ruins of shops and bazaars on 
 the left and those of the temple of Rome on the right. Reach- 
 ing the brow of the hill, we pass under the Arch of Titus built 
 by Vespasian to celebrate the victory of Titus in the capture 
 of Jerusalem. This structure, which is still quite complete, 
 has a peculiar value as a witness of the truthfulness of the 
 Bible record ; for among the fisures wdiich illustrate Titus's 
 
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856 liOME. 
 
 triumi^h are men bearing the treasures from the temple, and 
 among them is phiinly depicted the golden candlestick. It is 
 positiA^e evidence that such an article existed ; and this in turn 
 proves the existence of the temple and its services, thus es- 
 tablishing beyond dispute the history and ceremonies outlined 
 in the Old Testament. 
 
 From this point we look west over the valley in which are 
 the Roman Forum, and the ruins of numerous temples and 
 churches, to describe which would exceed the space at our 
 disposal. At the eastern end of the forum is the rostrum of 
 Julius Caesar, from which Mark Antony delivered his impas- 
 sioned address. At the western end is the old Roman rostrum, 
 from which thundered the stirring eloquence of the orators and 
 statesmen. On either end of the rostrum are the remains of a 
 column. The one to the left was called the Umhilicus Romce, 
 and was one of the many famed centers of the world. From 
 this point, distances were measured to all parts of the great 
 Roman empire, and the principal ones, it is said, were re- 
 corded on the pillar at the opposite end of the rostrum. Here 
 I saw illustrated the significance of the word " rostrum." Its 
 primary meaning is the " beak of a bird ; " it also means the 
 " prow of a vessel." In the edge of the platform are to be 
 seen several mortises in which were placed tenons to hold in 
 place the prows of vessels which had been captured by the 
 Romans in a naval battle. And from this circumstance our 
 word "rostrum " comes. So also our word " capitol " was said 
 to have risen from the fact that while excavating on the hill 
 called the Cnpitoline, on which the capitol of Rome was after- 
 ward built, a skull was found wearing a brass band, upon 
 which was the name Stolinus. And Cajmt (head) Stolinus be- 
 came Capitol. 
 
 Several colonnades still remain in this valley marking the 
 ruins of the temples of Concord, of Saturn, Castor and Pollux, 
 

 C. 
 
 
358 ROME. 
 
 and others. As we climb the Capitoline Hill, we pass the 
 door of a church, and enterino- the vestibule, pay the priest a 
 small sum and receive two little candles by the liiiht of which 
 we descend into the old Mamertine Prison. The first apart- 
 ment consists of a rock-hewn room of comfortable size, but 
 void of natural light. This was the prison, and just beneath 
 this was the inner prison, or dungeon. Formerly the only 
 entrance to this was a circular opening in the floor about two 
 feet in diameter, through which prisoners were dropped, and 
 out of which they were drawn if they ever emerged from the 
 place, which was not usual. This place is now entered by a 
 stairway, and consists of a round room fifteen feet across, 
 seven feet in height in the middle, but lower at the walls. 
 An iron door opens from this room to a passage-way lead- 
 ing to the celebrated Roman sewer, which empties into the 
 Tiber. Into this dungeon, many hapless men were thrust never 
 again to see the light of day. Very many were strangled and 
 dragged through the passage-way to the se\ver. Tradition has 
 it, upon what seems to be good authority, that the upper 
 apartment was the place in which Paul the apostle was con- 
 fined by Nero, and from which he was taken to his death. 
 Roman Catholic tradition claims that both Paul and Peter 
 were imprisoned in the lower dungeon. 
 
 A visit to the Palatine Hill is of the utmost interest, for 
 it carries one through the ruins of the palaces of the emperors. 
 From it is obtained a view of the great circus built by Augus- 
 tus. Here, too, we obtain glimpses of what are said to be 
 portions of the original wall of Rome, and the cave in which 
 the wolf nursed Romulus and Remus. Here are traces of 
 Etruscan buildings, and the valley beyond is said to be the 
 scene of strife between the Sabines and the Romans. 
 
 But to many the Rome of a later period will be of greater 
 interest. The central figure in mediaeval Rome is St. Peter's 
 
ST. PETER'S. 359 
 
 church, the noblest structure of its kind, if not of aii}^ other 
 kind, on the globe. This building stands on the spot where 
 it is claimed that Peter suffered martyrdom. It covers nearly 
 four acres of land and is said to have cost in construction fifty 
 million dollars. It was consecrated in its present form in 
 1626, just one thousand three hundred years after its founda- 
 tions were laid. The church is built in the form of a cross. 
 The nave is six hundred and four feet in length, and the tran- 
 sept two hundred and sixty. The height of the arched ceiling 
 is one hundred and fifty feet above the floor. The dome rises 
 four hundred and fifty feet, and people may ascend in what 
 looks from the ground to be a flag-staff to the copper ball, 
 which will hold sixteen persons at once. Beneath the main 
 dome is a noble bronze canopy built over a splendid altar. 
 This canopy is ninety feet in height. The frescoes are largely 
 done in mosaics, and include historical scenes wonderfully 
 wrought out. The mosaics were to me the most remarkable 
 feature of the buildings. Of course we saw the statue of St. 
 Peter sitting upon a pedestal four feet high, accommodatingly 
 placing his foot so that it projected in a very convenient posi- 
 tion for kissing the toe. A multitude of people take the hint. 
 A continual procession pass to the statue, deposit their oscula- 
 tory sacrifice, and depart. In this manner the great toe has 
 been entirely worn away and some portions of other toes have 
 also disappeared. Near the main entrance, in the middle of 
 the floor, is placed a dark, circular stone upon which many of 
 the emperors of Rome have been crowned. 
 
 To the right as one enters St. Peter's, is the Vatican palace, 
 the residence of the pope. Between the church and the palace 
 is the celebrated Sistine chapel, in which the popes are elected. 
 The frescoes of this chapel are mostly by that great Italian, 
 Michael Angelo, painter, sculptor, architect, and poet. At-tlio 
 farther end of the wall is the celebrated painting of the Judg- 
 

 H 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 o 
 
JSISTJXL' CHAPEL. 361 
 
 ment, a picture witli a world-wide renown. The arched ceiling 
 is covered with a representation of creation week. In the 
 former picture the great Judge of the earth is represented in 
 the center, while in the left-hand corner people are coming out 
 of their graves. Among these the artist placed himself, with 
 his hand resting upon Dante's head. The righteous are as- 
 cending from the judgment into glory, while the lost are being 
 plunged to perdition at the right of the observer, though at the 
 left of the Judge. Among these unhappy ones is shown a 
 monk contemporary with Angelo, against whom he had an ill 
 feeling. It is said that the monk remonstrated, but the artist 
 would make no change. The pope was appealed to, but he re- 
 plied that if the artist had simply sent him to purgatory he 
 could help him, but since he was sent to final perdition noth- 
 ing could be done, and so it remains to this day. 
 
 Adjoining the chapel is "the Vatican library and art gallery, 
 but to attempt any description of these would be beyond oar 
 design. The treasures of the ages are here, and vast indeed 
 is their store. To the rear of the church, and some distance 
 removed, is the sculpture gallery, of the extent of which some 
 idea will be sfained by the statement that there are more than 
 one mile of corridors crowded with the most celebrated works 
 of art from every country and from every age. 
 
 St. Peter's and its surroundings are utterly beyond descrip- 
 tion for grandeur and vastness. Many days of constant visit- 
 ing would not exhaust the interest and wonder which the 
 accumulated treasures excite. It is said that in trinkets, 
 ornaments, and various treasures there is more gold accumu- 
 lated there than is in circulation in the kingdom of Italy. 
 
 Many other churches in Rome are Avorthy of mention even 
 in connection with this one. That of St. John in Lateran is 
 even more celebrated in the early history of the church. Four 
 miles outside the old Avails is St. Paul's, and near the center 
 
W 
 
 N 
 H 
 
 Tj 
 
 
 
 O 
 
ITALY'S POVERTY. 363 
 
 of the city, St. Maggiore. These churches contain ;;iul repre- 
 sent in their structure almost incalculable wealth. Their 
 priests serve in great pomp, clothed in splendid robes Avhich 
 glisten with jewels and gold. Besides those mentioned, there 
 are scattered through the city other costly worshiping estab- 
 lishments Avhich in any other city would attract wide atten- 
 tion. The Church of Rome is strongly entrenched in her 
 ancient seat. 
 
 For some years the government has, to the joy of the peo- 
 ple, been out of the hands of the church. But the efforts to 
 erect a respectable government have involved Italy in a hope- 
 less entanglement of insolvency. The financial policy of the 
 rulers has not been wise. The exigencies of the present 
 military situation have forced intolerable burdens upon the 
 poor people. The public debt amounts to eighty dollars per 
 capita, and the annual interest is three dollars and fifty cents 
 for each man, woman, and child. The common necessities of 
 life are exorbitantly taxed to produce a revenue which always 
 comes short of meeting the outlays. Notwithstanding this, 
 and the untold poverty of the masses, there is sufficient money 
 invested in the churches to redeem the public credit, relieve 
 the exchequer, render the country happy, and feed the poor 
 with bread in plenty. But it is hoarded in the name of Him 
 who though he was rich, became poor that we through his pov- 
 erty might be rich. 
 
 Italy is a beautiful and favored country ; but Satan early 
 took his seat there; and through his agents civil and ecclesias- 
 tical, he has made it the active scene of his machinations 
 throughout its history. In no place is the gospel of peace 
 and purity more needed than in Italy. 
 
 Florence, Venice, Genoa, Pisa, Milan, besides Naples and 
 Rome, are cities in Italy which all travelers wish to visit, 
 though some of them will hardly repay the trouble. 
 
o 
 
 
 
 
 
FLOREXTINE GALLERIES. 365 
 
 From Rome we go to Florence. The jo.nrney is ;i [)lea8;mt 
 
 railway ride of six hours throuuh an interestinn' conntrv. 
 
 . I- <-^ , 
 
 The galleries of this eit}^ give it pre-eminence as the great 
 center of art. The Ufizzi, or Florentine, gallery contains 
 twentv-three chambers richlv stored with the works of the old 
 masters of painting and sculpture. One of these, the Tribune, 
 contains the richest of all treasures, embracing several paint- 
 ings by Raphael and the celebrated statue of the Venus de 
 Medici. This famous work was taken in fragments from the 
 ruins of an old Roman villa, and was held by the Medici 
 family, from whom it was purchased by the government. In 
 one room are two tables of Florentine mosaics, the price paid 
 the Medicis for one being nine hundred thousand francs, and 
 the price of the other, five hundred thousand francs. Con- 
 nected with the Ufizzi gallery by a covered foot-bridge across 
 the river Arno is the almost equally celebrated Pitti gallery, 
 also owned by the government. Another place of interest is 
 the studio and office of Michael Angelo, remaining as he used 
 them. The place wdiere he did his ^vriting would make but a 
 small pantry. The wooden bench on which he sat, and the 
 little desk at which he wrote are still there. Portraits of 
 himself by himself hanii" about the rooms, and show him witli 
 a broken nose which he received in a fracas witli another 
 artist, for he w^as a man of fiery temper. But as a genius he 
 has had but few if any equals. He died in 1563, and no ni.ni 
 is more highly honored in the memory of his countrymen, not 
 only for his genius, but for his benevolence and pliilanthro|ty. 
 St. Groce's church, in Florence, contains the tomb of 
 Michael Angelo, and above it is a desion in marble bv himself, 
 executed by a pupil, in which three figures representing jDaint- 
 ing, poetry, and sculpture sit looking with sorrow upon the 
 grave. So perfect is the representation of grief that tears 
 came to my eyes as I looked upon what w^as to me the most 
 
o 
 
 A 
 
OUT OF ITALY. 3(37 
 
 wonderful revelation in marble I have ever seen. In front 
 of the .same church stands a majestic statue of Dante, and 
 within the church lie the remains of Galileo, and other 
 famous men. 
 
 The beautiful surroundings of Florence, the uniform cour- 
 tesy of its citizens, and its balmy air, together with the vast 
 treasures of art, make it an attractive place for visitors. 
 
 The, only other stop we will make in Italy on this trip is 
 at Milan. This city is about seven hours from Florence by 
 rail. The route lies across the Appenine Mountains, where 
 enchanting views of picturesque scenery are obtained. The 
 city of Bologna, celebrated for its sausages, is passed. Its 
 cathedral, one of the finest in the world, is the one chief attrac- 
 tion in Milan. 
 
 From this point we took the famous St. Gotthard Tunnel 
 route across 'the Alps. The day proved to be all that could 
 be desired, and the scenery grand beyond description. After 
 passing the beautiful Lake Como, we reach the Swiss border 
 at Chiasso, where customs are collected. After this Lakes 
 Lugano and Maggiore were passed. Nestling among the moun- 
 tains, they present scenes of rarest beauty. The railway 
 undertakes the ascent to the St. Gotthard Pass through the 
 valley of the brawling Ticino. But the river descends more 
 abruptly than the railway can climb, hence it is necessary to 
 gain altitude by bold engineering devices. There are four 
 loop tunnels, where the line strikes directly into the heart of 
 the mountains, and performing a circle of tw^o or three miles, 
 emerges directly over the entrance place, having gained perhaps 
 sixty or seventy feet in height by the maneuver. The mouths 
 of two of these tunnels are shown in the engraving. 
 
 Continually the traveler is impressed by the ' stupendous " 
 mountains on every hand. The tunnels are numerous, but the 
 most extended one is at the summit under the St. Gotthard 
 
3G8 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Pass. This tunnel is nine and one fourth miles in length and 
 its passage requires eighteen to twenty minutes. In the mid- 
 dle the greatest altitude is reached at three thousand seven 
 hundred and eighty-six feet above the sea. 
 
 Emerging on the north side, we found a veritable northern 
 winter waiting to receive us — deep snows and cold winds. 
 The valley of the Reuss rapidly conducted us to the beautiful 
 shores of lakes Zug and Lucerne. And at the close of the 
 day our train reached the city of Lucerne. It had been a day 
 long to be remembered. There are scenes of majestic grand- 
 eur in various parts of the world, but probably nothing that 
 out-Switzerlands Switzerland. 
 
 Drying Macaroni (Soe page 3-15). 
 
HOMEWARD AND BACKWARD. 
 
 PON reaching Switzerland, old-time friends were 
 ready with hearty greetings, which gave me the 
 first realization that the homeward stretch had now 
 been begun. Lucerne was the first stopping-place, 
 but my stay here was short, for the hospitable firesides of 
 former associates awaited me in Basle. Beyond this were also 
 the even stronger attractions of home, and the urgent call of 
 duties awaiting me there. Switzerland Vvvas robed in winter 
 garments. There was nearly one foot of snow, an unusual 
 condition for that country ; so that there was not the best op- 
 portunity to view the famous beauty of the mountain scenery. 
 Consequently, after a brief visit with friends, the journey 
 was resumed. It was left for the following summer to com- 
 plete the European tour, when circumstances would be more 
 favorable. We shall therefore pass rapidly over the trip to 
 the United States, and return, taking up the account at a later 
 time where we now leave it oft\ 
 
 A brief trip to the Jura Mountains afforded a good idea of 
 what Swiss winter scenery is like. A friend accompanied me 
 to near the French line, where he saw me on board the train 
 for Paris. 
 
 That day in France was one of the most trying of the entire 
 trip. The cars had no stoves, the day was bitterly cold, and 
 the snow blew fiercely, and blocked our way so that the trains 
 were several hours late. It is true that tin flasks of hot water 
 were supplied for our feet, but these soon cooled off, and to 
 •U [369] 
 
o 
 
 
ACROS.S THE ATLANTIC. 371 
 
 make matters worse the French language was altogether out 
 of mv range. After seA'eral ludicrous episodes and much 
 worry Paris was reached and passed with just time enough to 
 drive rapidly from one station to another. On our way to the 
 coast our train was snowbound for some hours, but the little 
 steamer for the English shores was waiting for us, and early 
 next day London was reached and other kind friends were 
 found. A brief stop was made here, and then came the trip 
 across the Atlantic. 
 
 There were among the passengers two brothers, who after 
 many years of faithful work were now takino- their first holi- 
 day trip. They had leave of absence for three weeks, and 
 chose to take three fourths of the time in crossing and 
 recrossing the Atlantic in February. It is said that '' there 
 is no accounting for tastes ; " but of all the strange freaks 
 in the way of choosing diversion, this seemed about the 
 strangest. They were different from another passenger who 
 came on board at Liverpool. He moved into his stateroom . 
 but the lively gale blowing up the Mersey was too much for 
 his courage, and though forfeiting his fare, he ordered his 
 things removed to the tender, declaring that he was just as 
 near New York as he wanted to be. The most of us honored 
 his judgment before we got across. 
 
 The absence of five years made the privilege of greeting 
 old friends especially dear. But in July tickets were bought 
 for London again, though on this trip the loneliness of travel 
 was broken by the companionship of a company of friends. 
 
 If the world has but one point of magnetic attraction, that 
 point is London. If one were required to indicate that spot 
 w^here the most of this world, past and present, can be seen in 
 the smallest space, he would always say, London. If the 
 world were to be asked. What city exerts the widest influence 
 in the commercial world ? the universal answer would be, 
 
o 
 
 o 
 a 
 /^ 
 
 o 
 
SIGHTS IN LOXDON. 
 
 373 
 
 London ; and if the query were extended to the political world, 
 the answer in most cases would he the same. 
 
 But the ground has been tramped over and over again by 
 travelers, and it is not our purpose to take time to describe 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 that which is perfectly familiar to the average reader ; hence 
 with a few views of some of its principal features, we shall 
 pass on. There is London Bridge, the most celebrated viaduct 
 in the world ; London Tower, stored with historical relics, and 
 the scene of many tales of cruelty and heroism. There is 
 
HOLLAND. 375 
 
 Westminster Abbey, and hard by the House of Purlianioiit, the 
 British Museum, and places of simihir though perhaps lesser 
 interest, almost without number. 
 
 After a brief stay in the English capital, our journey was 
 resumed into Holland. This country has been stolen from the 
 sea. At least much of it is below the surface of the ocean, 
 and strong dykes are required to keep the ocean from reclaim- 
 ing its lost territory. There are few sights in the world more 
 strange than the very common one in Holland of great ships 
 sailing along streams and canals whose surfaces are six or eight 
 feet above the land. Riding by train or carriage, one is sur- 
 prised to look up and see ocean steamers stalking along above 
 him. The land thus situated is very fertile but is too moist 
 fjr many of the common crops, so that much of it is devoted 
 to grazing. Fine herds of Holstein cattle cover the meadows 
 and furnish produce for the London market. 
 
 Rotterdam is a strange old town. The unstable character 
 of the soil causes the heavy buildings gradually to careen one 
 way or another, giving to the city a rather crazy appearance. 
 In this city, as well as in others of Holland, they utilize their 
 canals for local traffic, consequently their streets ure not cum- 
 bered with the noisy freight-carting that forms so disagreeable 
 a feature of ordinary city life. The engraving shows one of 
 these water highways. On land, dogs are harnessed to hand- 
 carts with which those who deal in vegetables, fruit, and milk, 
 travel about. The dogs furnish the motive power for these 
 vehicles while the proprietor acts as steersman. 
 
 A notable peculiarity of the country is the head-dress of 
 some of the aristocratic dames who wear a cap of brass or 
 perhaps gold-plated metal in the form of a night-cap. These 
 are heirlooms, and are highly esteemed as having been 
 handed down through generations, and their possession is a 
 mark of honor. 
 
o 
 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
HAMBURG. 377 
 
 As wo retire from the coast, the land rises ; and before we- 
 reach the German border, it becomes sandy and barren. About 
 fourteen hours from Amsterdam took iis to Hamburg, the 
 great seaport of Germany, though three hours of the time was 
 PlDent waiting for the train. Witli its suburbs Hamburg con- 
 tains over seven hundred thousand inhabitants. Recently, or 
 since the great cholera plague, much pains and money have 
 been expended in beautifying the city and rendering it cleanly, 
 healthful, and in every way attractive. The efforts have been 
 very successful in each respect. Hamburg is situated on 
 the Elbe River, seventv-tive miles from its mouth. The laro- 
 est ocean steamers do not ascend the river to Hamburg, but 
 are reached by rail. But the river and a splendid, commodious 
 harbor are crowded with shipping from all the world. Ham- 
 burg contains a free jiort costing thirty thousand dollars. 
 Into its W'arehouses goods may be shipped without paying 
 duties until they are removed and carried into Germany. K 
 reshipped to other countries, goods are not liable to duties. 
 Hamburg is a free state, and its government is republican, 
 though as a member of the German federation, it is subject to 
 the imperial authority. 
 
 Hamburg is a thoroughly German city. The people are 
 attached to their beer and other pleasures, but are orderly 
 among themselves and polite to the stranger. 
 
 From Hamburg our route took us to the stronirlv fortified 
 port of Kiel, on the Baltic Sea, in whose harbor lay a large num- 
 ber of German men-of-war. From there we took boat to the 
 island of Sjaelland (Zealand), Denmark, on which the beautiful 
 city of Kjobenhavn (Copenhagen) is located. This city has 
 many attractions, and is justly celebrated for its cleanliness. 
 It contains many relics of historical value, the Rosenberg 
 Castle being richly stored with mementoes which convey to the 
 visitor by a grand object lesson a long story of Danish history. 
 
O »- Q 
 
 llOMEWAIU) AXD BACKWARD. 
 
 Returning to Hamburg, or if one prefers, sailing to Stettin 
 and thence by rail, we next make for Berlin, the great German 
 capital. Our party chose the former route. Between the two 
 great German cities much of the land is of a sandy character, 
 
 KOSENBERG CaSTLE. COPENHAGEN- 
 
 and poorly adapted to the support of the great population it 
 bears. This same low, sandy valley extends from the western 
 shores of the continent eastward through Germany and Russia 
 to Sib<3ria. Berlin is a magnificent city, because it has been 
 made the worthy capital of a great nation, rather than from any 
 
LUTHER'S GROUND. 370 
 
 beauty that it possesses from its situation. Its galleries and 
 public buildings are noble, and " Unter den Linden " is one 
 of the most celebrated streets in the world. 
 
 Leaving Berlin with its famous and t^xmiliar attractions, 
 we hasten on to the more unassuming but not less interesting 
 town of Wittenburg, the scene of Luther's struggles for liberty 
 of conscience and the faith of Jesus. Here is the church in 
 which he preached, on the doors of which he nailed the theses, 
 and in which he, with the mild-tempered Mehmcthon, lies 
 buried. Here is the monastery and school where the rays of 
 light broke into his soul, and where he lived with his "lord 
 Catherine," and taught the truth he loved. A spreading oak 
 covers the spot wdiere Luther is said to have burned the 
 pope's bull. In the center of the city stands the ancient 
 " Stadt Kirche," and by its side a little chapel said to be six 
 hundred years old. 
 
 Pursuing our journey toward the Rhine, we come to 
 Eisenach, another place made f\imous by the life of the great 
 Reformer. This neat but quaint old village stands at the foot 
 of a mountain one thousand three hundred feet high that rises 
 out of the plain. This mountain is called the Wartburg, from 
 the celebrated old castle that crowns its summit. It was in 
 this castle that Luther was held in friendly confinement by 
 the Elector Frederick, to save him from the wrath of his 
 enemies. One of the engravings shows the castle as it ap- 
 pears from the south. The other shows the room in which 
 Luther lived for ten months, and in which he translated the 
 Scriptures. The tall stove stands in the corner, the canopied 
 bed is in the foreground. There stand his table, his chair, 
 and his footstool. The latter is a section of the vertebra of a 
 whale. The patch in the wall is pointed out as the spot 
 where the ink-bottle struck when thrown by Luther at the 
 devil. Tourists have dug away the plaster and timber, but 
 

 O 
 
 P3 
 
 X 
 
n 
 
 o 
 
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382 HOMEWARD AND BACKWARD. 
 
 the practice is now stopped, for the buihling would soon be 
 wrecked if it were allowed to go on, 
 
 A large portion of Germany consists of level country with 
 high places rising abruptly, on the tops of which are the 
 romantic remains of old castles. These are relics of the 
 feudal times when chieftains gathered a following with wiiich 
 they plundered the surrounding country, and for protection 
 took refuge in these impregnable fastnesses. From their 
 heights they could overlook the whole region and watch the 
 approach of the enemy. 
 
 Offenburg, Heidelberg, Frankfort, and other celebrated 
 towns must be passed without remark, though on account of 
 its peculiar beauty and celebrated institutions of learning, 
 Heidelberg is worthy of special attention. 
 
 From Offenburg w^e enter the noted " Schwarzwald," 
 or " Black Forest." The railway to Singen climbs to a lati- 
 tude of two thousand six hundred feet over a line that is 
 remarkable for its beauty, and on the south side slopes down 
 into the Rhine valley by an easy grade. At Schaffhausen are 
 the beautiful Rhine Falls, the largest waterfalls in Europe, a 
 fine view of which is given in the picture. 
 
 Zurich, Switzerland, was our stopping place for a short 
 time. Here we visited the scenes with which the name and 
 memory of Zwingle are closely associated. In the arsenal w^e 
 were shown the armor in which he went to the battle field, 
 the helmet of which bears the gash through which he received 
 his death wound. Gross Mlinster is the name of Zwingle's 
 old church. The edifice has a histor}^ that reaches back to 
 the early part of the dispensation, though additions have been 
 made to it in more modern times. 
 
 The city is picturesquely situated on Lake Ztirich, where 
 the river Limmat emerges from the lake and receives the rush- 
 ing Sihl, and is a town of considerable thrift and importance. 
 

 CO 
 CO 
 
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 '}.(- 
 
 
 'A 
 H 
 
 CO 
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SWITZERLAND. 385 
 
 Having entered Switzerland, and set the pen to the task 
 of describing this wonderland of natnral beauty, we find it to 
 be a work of altogether greater magnitude than can be com- 
 pleted in the little that is left of the space devoted to this 
 volume. It is a work that would claim a volume of its own. 
 Many such volumes have been written, and but little could be 
 said that has not been told by numerous enthusiastic admirers 
 of the beauties of nature in their grandest aspects. Switzer- 
 land stands unrivaled for natural scenery. But in passing 
 from Zlirich westward through Berne to Neuchatel, one trav- 
 erses the broad valley between the Alps and the Rhine, and 
 that between the Juras and the Alps. From the midst of this 
 valley the snow'-white tops of the mountains are barely visible. 
 The level plain, occupying nearly all the northern half of 
 Switzerland, ^ives little intimation of the wild scenes which 
 lie just beyond its southern borders. 
 
 The roadways of Switzerland deserve the high reputation 
 they have gained. They are constructed with great expense 
 and labor. Railways connect all important towns, and are 
 being used in many instances to scale the lofty heights. Of 
 these perhaps the most famous is that which ascends the Rigi 
 near Lake Lucerne. There are several similar ones in opera- 
 tion or projection. One is at Territet, at the east end of 
 Lake Geneva, and ascends seven thousand feet to the height 
 of Naye. The first thousand feet, to the village of Glion, is 
 in cars drawn by a cable to each end of which a car is at- 
 tached. One descends as the other ascends, and the cable 
 power is supplied by a mountain stream. At Glion, a steam 
 locomotive with cog rail takes passengers the remainder of the 
 distance. It is a peculiar sensation that one experiences 
 when he first feels himself thus drawn rapidly from earth 
 toward the upper world. Speculations as to his probable fate 
 should the machinery give out, will assert themselves. 
 
 25 
 
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 Hi 
 
 M 
 
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 CO 
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UP THE MOUNTAIN. 387 
 
 From the narrow peak of the mountain we look ahnost 
 perpendicularly down into the lake below. As our train was 
 passing along a narrow ridge near the top, we could see the 
 lake lying thousands of feet below us on one side, and on the 
 other side at an almost equal depth, smiled a beautiful Swiss 
 A^alley, On the return, a passing cloud came up from the lake 
 at this point, and rested against the railway, so that out of one 
 window we looked into an impenetrable bank of fog, and out 
 of the other into a lovely A^alley filled with sunshine. A few 
 minutes' walk from Territet is the Castle of Chillon, rendered 
 famous by Byron's poem. 
 
 Temperance people in touring through Switzerland should 
 always provide themselves wdth drinking cups. Gushing 
 fountains of the purest cold water are everywhere seen, but 
 the many venders of wine and beer, whose shops are much 
 more plentiful than the fountains, have taken the precaution to 
 see that no cups lie about, and that the waters, though so 
 near, are out of the reach of thirsty lips. Geneva Lake or 
 Lac Lenian, as it is more generally called, is a gem of beauty. 
 Besides the cities of Lausanne and Geneva, that are located 
 upon its banks, it is almost encircled by smaller towns. Ev- 
 erywhere the hillsides are covered with vines and fruit-trees. 
 The Swiss are an industrious and frugal people, and have ever 
 been compelled to make the utmost out of their limited re- 
 sources. They have enjoyed their remarkable scenery; their 
 rugged mountains and pure atmosphere produce an air of 
 freedom and independence. But even the thrifty Swiss peas- 
 antry never learned the secret of living off their fine scenery 
 and rare air until American tourists taught them how. Now 
 thousands of Americans and Englishmen pour into the little 
 republic to exchange gold for the privilege of gazing at the 
 Schwitzer's scenery and drinking his wine and goat's milk, 
 while he grows fat on what was once his poverty. 
 
THE RHINE. 389 
 
 Any one visiting Central Europe should by all means plan 
 to take one part of the trip by steamer on the Rhine. For 
 the outward journey he may take a boat early in the 
 morning at Mayence ; and before the day is done, he will have 
 landed at Cologne, below which the river flows through a 
 level country. Between those cities there is a constant pro- 
 cession of pleasant surprises on every hand. A busy railway 
 follows each bank of the stream, so that if time is pressing, 
 there are opportunities to leave the boat for faster travel ; but 
 most people will prefer the entire trip by water. Except at a 
 few points the rocky banks do not present a wild appearance. 
 One of these exceptions is at the Lorelei, so widely celebrated 
 in song and superstitious tradition as the place wdiere sailors 
 were in ancient times lured to destruction on the rocks by the 
 siren song of a lovely maiden. For most of the distance, the 
 steep sides of the narrow valley are terraced and covered with 
 vineyards. Here and there, on some bold point of rocks, 
 stand the ruins of old-time castles, the builders of which 
 plundered the adjacent country, and levied toll upon passing 
 boats. In a few instances these have been preserved or re- 
 stored so as to be still inhabited, and are surrounded by beau- 
 tiful grounds. Various towns are passed during the day, at 
 which the steamer pauses for a moment. The most famous of 
 these is Coblentz, at the junction of the Moselle River with 
 the Rhine. At this point a pontoon bridge has been thrown 
 across the Rhine, and upon the opposite shore stands a rocky 
 promontory crowned Avith a celebrated fortress called Ehren- 
 breitstein, of which a fine view is given in the engraving. 
 
 A few miles below Mayence is the widely known " Bingen 
 on the Rhine." Opposite the town, on the north bank of 
 the river, stands the colossal monument erected by the German 
 government to celebrate the victory over the French. The 
 French despise the statue as heartily as the Germans admire it. 
 
390 HOMEWARD AXD BACKWARD. 
 
 Cologne is a fine city, containing a noble cathedral, which 
 for beaiit}^ rivals that of Milan, though of different architec- 
 ture. These buildings are grand monuments of the skill and 
 devotion of men. They represent a vast outlay of money and 
 labor; but they are no fit memorials of the religion of the 
 meek and lowly Jesus. It is so natural to pervert the talents 
 which are given us for the glory of God to our own glory. 
 Those gloomy halls and cloisters, the flying buttresses and 
 lofty spires, speak the praise of men ; but God is better 
 glorified in that which really blesses mankind in its lost and 
 helpless condition. 
 
 Leaving the Rhine at this point, a pleasant day's ride 
 across the country brings us once more to Hamburg. A few 
 days in this beautiful city among kind friends was heartily 
 enjoyed. The city abounds in beautiful parks. A fine lake 
 lies in the midst of the city. The harbor is not only full 
 of great ships, but dodging here and there are little pleasure 
 boats which make a business of transporting people about the 
 harbor. Extensive and interesting zoological gardens are also 
 amono^ the attractions. 
 
 At this point w^e bade adieu to the friends in the Old 
 World, and took train for Cuxhaven, where we found one of 
 the Hamburg-American steamers waiting to receive us and to 
 bear us safely and comfortably over the broad ocean. Pass- 
 ing through the English channel, we touched at Southampton, 
 and in due time were once more at home. 
 
 Under the influences of the powerful forces of progress 
 now so actively at work, the various sections of the earth are 
 being brought much nearer together relatively if not geo- 
 graphically. And as the distances which have for ages sepa- 
 rated them as almost impassable barriers are dispelled, so 
 strangeness, national antipathies, and prejudices are disap- 
 
SUMMING UP. 
 
 391 
 
 pearing. The differences between races are those of educa- 
 tion and environment rather than of nature. Distinctions of 
 coh^r are at most but " skin deep." Every human being bears 
 in his human frame the image of his Maker ; and in liis soul 
 the impress of the divine attributes. True it is that the 
 enemy has debased the human and ahnost effaced the divine ; 
 
 Cologne Cathedral. 
 
 but in no human heart is the smoking flax entirely quenched. 
 
 One nation has no occasion to glory over another. None 
 
 possess any powers or qualities that they have not received. 
 
 Our talents are ours only as a trust ; and as freely as we have 
 
392 
 
 HOMEWARD AND BACKWARD. 
 
 received, so freely let us give. Every man is equally a child 
 of God hj creation. Every man is included in the price paid 
 for the redemption of the race. In that world to coine 
 there will be " no more sea " to separate men ; there will 
 be one '' pure language ; " there will be "one fold and 
 one Shepherd." The nearer men and nations approach 
 one another in sympathy and universal love, the more 
 of heaven there will be in this world. The more we are 
 brought in contact with others and the better we understand 
 their troubles, their struggles with adversity, and their aspira- 
 tions for a better life, the more active our sympathies become. 
 Thus are we better enabled to perceive that all men are 
 members of one family ; children of a universal Father. 
 
^ 
 
RARE BOOK 
 COLLECTION 
 
 A 
 
 THE LIBRARY OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA 
 
 AT 
 
 CHAPEL HILL 
 
 Travel 
 G440 
 .T29 
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