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Travels, Sight-seeing, and Adyenture
ET
LAND AND SEA
IX THE
FAR WEST AND FAR EAST.
By Ji. ^ p. p. jiooK.
1^ ir\
OVER 300 ORIGIIVAL E1VGI1A.VINGS.
PUB1_1CHED OY GUDOCRIPTION ONUY.
HARTFORD, CONN.,
coLXJi^Bi^isr book: ooiv^F^nsrir
BLISS & CO., NEWAUK, N. J.: F. DEWING & CO., SAN FUANXISCO.
"W. E. IJLISS, TOLEDO, OUIO : ANCHOU rURLISIIING CO., ST. LOUIS, MO.
1S7G.
Enteked according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, hj
THE COLUMBIAN BOOK COMPANY,
in the office of Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C.
PREFATORY.
This Book is one of the unforeseen and iinpremcditated
consequences of a series of travels by land and sea toward
the setting sun, initiated by a rambling excursion to the
plains and mountains of Colorado, and continued by alter-
nate journeyings and sojournings until the starting point
was again reached and a trip around the world had been
accomplished. In preparing it, we have attempted to de-
scribe some of the interesting objects whicli we saw, and
to record the novel incidents and personal adventures which
came within our observation or experience.
The routes by which we traveled took us over the waters
of the Pacific, Indian, and Atlantic Oceans ; the China, Ara-
bian, and Red Seas ; the Gulf of Siam ; the Bay of Bengal ;
the Straits of Malacca; and the channels of the Japanese
and East Indian Islands. Japan, China, Farther India, Ma-
laya, Ceylon, Arabia, Egypt, Sicily, Italy, and other coun-
tries were visited ; and in most of them ample time was
taken for sight-seeing and observation.
It may be proper to add that our travels were undertaken
solely for j^leasure, and in that point of view were a suc-
cess — a greater one than we can expect our book will be.
Still, we have been agreeably entertained and fought many
of our battles over again M'hile reading the proof-slieets ;
and we have become interested in the pictures — deeply so
in those wherein are delineated
THE AUTHORS.
M'^M
■m^
i{U.§Y%}^^J^
105 NASSA
iSAUST N.Y. ~^^V^^
O
1. The Land of the Pyramids,
2. College Nights
3. Bachelors of Art,
4. " Bl-ffalo ! "
5. Toting Him Out,
6. The Bachelor's Welcome, . . . ,
7. The Colorado Sphynx, ....
8. A Narrow Escape, .....
9. A Bloody Reception, ....
10. Sunday Recreations,
11. Fully Convinced,
12. Monument Rocks,
13. Invjtinj A Treat, . . ; .
14. Indian Squaws on the Hunt,
15. Adventure with Wild Cattle of the Plains,
16. A "Foul" Dinner,
17. A Night in the Woods, ....
18. Summit of Gray's Peak-Colorado,
19. A Mutual Scare,
20. Novel Descent from the Mountain,
21. Slam and his Buyer, ....
22. Ecstatic Passengers,
23. Mountain Flora,
24. The Serpent of the Mountains,
25. Salt Lake Apostles, ....
26. A Row ON THE Lake, . . . . .
27. The Gem of the Mountains,
28. Ready for the Plunge,
Frontispiece
PAGE
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67
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71
74
75
79
ILLUSTRATIONS.
29. Caleb's Race-course,
30. Crossing the Fkrry,
31. Bound for the Valley,
32. Caleb Taking the Veil,
33. WoMANs' Rights Advancing,
34. Above the Falls,
35. Watching THE Camp-fire,
36. Caleb's Perilous Descent, .
37. " Quite Showery,"
38. The Rescue,
39. Around the Log-fire,
40. YosEMiTE Valley,
41. The Brothers,
42. Counting in the Gold,
43. The Stool-pigeon,
44. " Here I Am again ! " .
45. Bachelors' Hall,
46. Bound for Japan,
47. " Only a Ripple, Sir ! "
48. Casting Bread upon the Waters,
49. A Steerage Passenger's first Dive,
50. A Trying Time,
51. A Queue-rious Separation,
52. Going Ashore at Yokohama,
53. A Fore-runner of Civilization,
54. The Great Oriental Express,
55. India-rubber Boys,
56. New Japan, ....
57. Native Sweetmeats, .
58. Foreign Sauce, ....
59. A SMALL Water-party,
60. Approach to the Japanese Metropolis,
61. Dinner at Yeddo,
62. A Bootless Visit,
63. Before the High and Mighty,
64. A Japanese Temple,
65. The latest Innovation,
66. The Widow's Mite,
67. Touch and Be Healed, .
68. "Getting Used to Ii,"
69. Wildair's Warriors;,
70. Wildair A3 A Geographer,
71. Social Equality Illustrated,
72. Old Japan,
73. The Pirates' Doom,
74. Stbeet Scene in Hong kong,
80
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165
167
171
VI
ILLUSTRATIONS.
*75. Startino up the Leader, ....
V6. A Down Grade,
11. Abating a Nuisanc*;,
78. Street Gamblers,
19. The Opium Smoker and his Wife,
80. Amusing the Natives, .....
81. A Bakbarous Barber,
82. A Study of Hats
83. Chinese Mistress and Maid, ....
84. Sidewalk Artisans — HoNti Kong,
85. A Policeman and his Victim,
86. Our first Rat-soup, • . . . ,
81. Opium Smuggling— Canton River,
88. Ploughing like his Father,
89. Agricultural Scene— China,
90. The Guardian Pagoda, ....
91. "Rock ME to Sleep Mother,"
92. An Attack in the Rear,
93. The Gentle Rower,
94. Improvements on the Race, ....
95. A FIRST class Rat-seller, ....
96. The Gutter Snipe — Canton, ....
97. A Covered Street of Canton,
98. Poking Fun at Him,
99. " They Seemed to like it," ....
100. " The Grim Iron Barrier Prevented our Egress,'
101. The mysterious Box,
102. Priest with Alms-box.
103. A long-nosed Ancestor, ....
104. A Pig-tail Excitement
105. A DiONiFiED Chinaman, ....
106. Specimens of Architecture — Canton,
107. Before the Throne,
108. A Chinese Mandarin,
109. More Ornamental than Useful,
110. Third-class Passengers at Dinner,
111. Our State room Visitors, ....
112. "The Captain frequently ITovered near Them,"
113. The Banks of the Saigon— Farther India,
114. Native Boats
115. Assaulted by Amazons, ....
116. An Adventure in the Dark, ....
117. " Your Foot VERY SMALL," ....
118. A Siamese Prince,
119. An An am Aristocrat,
173
175
177
179
180
182
184
186
187
188
189
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242
244
246
249
251
Wife
ILLUSTRATIONS.
120. Deck Amcsemints — Gulf of Si am,
121. Dot Wins THE Night,
122. A Meteoric Shower,
123. Diving from the Ship's Deck,
124. On the Road to Singapore,
125. "HeIs HUNGRT," ....
126. "Go IT YOU Cripplk," ,
127. Boat life in Malay,
128. A Burial in the Bay of Bengal,
129. The sick Frenchman and his Chinese
130. A Princess of Malay,
131. Odb Ceylon Pilot and his Boat,
132. An Insulted " Guide,"
133. One of our Passengers,
134. Ceylon Jugglers — Mysterious Balls,
135. "Many of Them Improved Surprisingly
136. Ceylon a Fraud, . , . .
137. Initiating a Candidate, .
138. Running for Life,
139. An Lsdian Mosque — Taj Mahal,
140. A Brahmin Devotee,
141. A Fight in the Jungle,
142. Fun on Deck — Arabian Sea,
143. Heads and Tails — A Scene at Aden,
144. Eggs-traordinart,
145. A Melting in the Desert,
146. Fruits of Competition — A Scene on the D
147. A Stiff-necked Egyptian,
148. Lost in Cairo, ....
149. Hard on the Donkeys,
150. Entrance to the Great Pyramid,
151. Plan OF the Interior,
152. The Grand Gallery, .
153. A hard Goose to Pick,
154. Morning Recreations,
155. Bed-time Exercises,
156. A Touching Scene,
157. Return of the Hunter,
158. A MIGHTY Archer,
159. Scbtehranean Hall of the Bulls,
160. Doe AND Fawn
161. TRAN>roRriNG A " God,"
162. Yankee Pyramid-builders,
163. Ruins on the Nile, . .
164. Egyptian High Art, . .
esert.
Vll
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254
256
257
259
261
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266
268
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839
Vlll
ILLUSTRATIONS.
THE
165. Mummy-case, ....
166. Street Scenk in Alexandria,
167. Cleopatra's Bath,
168. Cleopatra's Needles,
169. Pompey's Pillar,
170. Wiluair Expresses an Opinion,
171. A Strike on the High Seas,
172. The Shores of Italy,
173. A Colorado Ghost,
174. " Take Him out,"
175. An afflicted Neopolitan,
176. Bacchanalian Dance, .
177. Mutual Rpxognition,
178. Three Young Ladies of Naples,
179. Tunnel at Naples,
180. Enticing a Victim,
181. Eesult of Paying off the Boys,
182. Dissatisfied Damsels,
183. Hercclaneum — The Theatp-e,
184. ' Our Horses Were fiery, and We Gave Them
185. " Our Assailants soon Lost their Legs,"
186. "I Let My House out a little,"
187. The Great CATASTRorHE
188. Excavated Street of To.mds — Pomteii,
189. A Warning to Burglars, ....
190. The Tragic Theatre,
191. A Sudden Stop, ......
192. Arches OF Ancient Rome,
193. A Drive through Rome, ....
194. The Procession of Trajan, .
195. Ruins of Caracalla's Baths,
196. " We Shuddered as WE went along,"
197. "They Kiss the Toe of St. Peter's Statue,"
198. The Sacred Steps, . . .
199. The Old Man's Pet.
200. " A Wild-looking Man with a Cudgel in his Hand,'
201. Our funny Fellow-passenger,
202. Imperialism at A Discount,
203. Park and Fountain at Versailles,
204. London Beggary, ....
205. Among the Roughs,
206. Going to hear Spurgeon,
207. A tipsy Emigrant Going Below,
208. A Dance on Deck
209. A President and a President-maker,
And Other Smaller Enoratings.
Rein,
341
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346
348
349
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357
360
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430
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436
438
441
443
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461
453
456
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
THE START WESTWARD.
College Days Being Ended, Caleb and Wildair Start out on Their Travels —
Westward Ho ! — Scenes on the Plains — " Buffalo ! " — The Rendezvous at
Denver — " Yonder Goes Caleb " — Caleb and His Ponies 11
CHAPTER II.
WANDERINGS IN COLORADO.
Among the Herders of the Plain — A Magic Valley — Pleasant Park— The
Bachelor's Welcome—" Tewat," the Old Man of the Mountain— Bear-
Rock — Purgatory River — A Squirrel Hunt — Treeing the Game — Wildair
Perplexed — The old House by the Roadside — The Hopkinses — A Bloody
Reception — A Sunday Bear-hunt — Among the Prairie Dogs — The Gardens
of the Gods — Monument Creek — Double Falls 23
CHAPTER III.
LIFE ON THE FRONTIER.
Lively Experiences of a Circuit Preacher — Along the Arkansas River — The
Romance of Hardship — Las Animas City — Fort Lyons — The Sunset Gun
— A mixed Congregation — Stove-pipe Hats at a Discount — Indian Wives
of White Men — War between the Utes and the Plain Indians — Visit to an
Indian Camp — The Squaws Institute a Search — Dreary Solitude — Encoun-
ter with Texan Cattle — A Lady's Experiences in Colorado — Kind young
Bachelors — A " Foul " Dinner — Proposals of Marriage — A reformed
Bachelor — Bound for the Mountains — Petrified Stumps — A Night in the
Woods — Fire-works — In the South Park — Mining Camps 35
CHAPTER IV.
ASCENT OF gray's PEAK-IN A HORN.
Up the dark Gorge— The Quartz Mills by Night — A Midnight Halt — A
Bivouac among the Willows — Approach of Daylight — Sunrise — In the
dense Forests — A mutual Scare — Ascent of the Peak — Mysterious Tracks
— Suspicions of Grizzlies — Wildair's Pepper-box — On the Summit — The
Continental Divide — Novel Descent — At the Foot — Cities in the Wil-
derness—Slam and his Slanderers — The Town " Busted " — Wildair's
Eide — Slam and his Buyer — Final Catastrophe 49
X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
WESTWARD BY KAIL.
A Wanderer — Palace Cars — At Cheyenne — Mountain Flowers — The highest
Altitude— The Laramine Plains— The North Platte— The Continental
Divide — Green River — The City of the Saints — A Sunday in the Taberna-
cle — Salt Lake Apostles — Excursion to Lake Tahoe — Donner Lake — The
Sierra Nevada — Sacramento Valley 66
CHAPTER VL
A FLIRTATION AMONG THE BIG TREES.
The San Joaquin Valley — Mariposa — A pleasing Arrangement — Wildair
Falls in Love — Incidents of the Ride — Ready for the Plunge — Down Grade
— Caleb's Race-course — The Ancient Couple — A startling Disclosure —
Crest-fallen 76
CHAPTER VIL
SIGHT-SEEING IN YOSEMITE.
Bound for the Valley — Caleb's Night Ride — At Bridal Veil — Moonrise
—A Climb Upwards— Above the Falls—" I Won't Go Home Till Morning "
— Caleb's Camp-fire — Night Adventures — Perilous Descent 83
CHAPTER VHL
A CLEVIB OUT OF THE VALLEY.
"Quite Slippery" — Vernal Falls — Interviewing a "Guide" — His Warning
Voice — Resolve to Visit Glacier Rock — Up the Gorge — A Perilous Situa-
tion — Holding on for Life — The Rescue — " Where is Caleb ? " — Found at
Last — Return of the Wanderers — Around the Log-fire 90
CHAPTER IX.
EXPERIENCES IN SAN FRANCISCO.
Looking for Caleb's Denver Friend — A Fruitless Search — A thrilling Nar-
> rative — Miners and Their Burdens — The obliging Stranger — " Let's Have
a Drink" — The Stool-pigeon — "Plodding Joe's" Discovery — Inquest and
Verdict—" Ben Butler " at Home 99
CHAPTER X.
FIRE AND BRIMSTONE.
Visit to the Geysers — The Witches' Chaldron — The Laboratory of Nature —
Bachelors' Hall — Santa Rosa Valley — Petaluma — The Coast Ranges Ill
CHAPTER XL
POETRY OF THE OCEAN.
Arrival of a Japan Steamer — Good-Bye to San Francisco — Bound for the
Orient — Conversations with the Pilot — Rough on Wildair — We Are not
"Sea-sic-hic"— Scenes at Sea— Meeting a Steamer— " All's Well"—
The "America " 114
CONTENTS. 3d
CHAPTER XII.
A VOYAGE ON THE PACIFIC.
A Seaman's Tarn— Chinese Passengers inaStorm — Offerings to the "Gods"
— An Eccentric Calendar — A Trying Time— From Gay to Grave — Adrift
at Sea — Land of the Rising Sun— Anchor in Yeddo Bay — Japan at Last. 123
CHAPTER XIIL
SIGHT-SEEING IN JAPAN.
Going Ashore at Yokohama— Pleasant Scenes— Musical Japanese — Are
They Men or Women ?— An economical Dodge — A Tea Party in the
Suburbs— Paper Butterflies— India-rubber Boys— The Sensible Mikado
—A Strange Upstart 130
CHAPTER XIV.
A COUNTRY KIDE TO YEDDO.
Four wicked Ponies — Our tattooed Runner — Japanese Farmers — Tea Houses
—Pretty Waiter Girls— Native Refreshments— American Ingratitude—
A Young Ladies' Bathing Party— Approach to Yeddo— In the Great City
—Dinner at Yeddo — Wildair's Encounter with Burglars HO
CHAPTER XV.
THROUGH THE TEMPLES.
The Forest Parks of Yeddo— Imposing Tombs— Massive Gates, and shaven
Priests— Pompous Ornamentations— Up the shining Stairs— An august
Object— Solemn Ceremony— The Deserted Palace— Two-sworded Retain-
ers—The chief Temple — The Widow's Mite— The Altar and the Priests
— Ghastly Pictures— The " God of the Smokers "—The Goddess of Mercy —
"Touch and Be Healed"— St. Francis Xavier the first Missionary to
Japan — The early Christians— Massacre of Priests — Japanese Exiles. 150
CHAPTER XVL
SOCIAL PROGRESS IN JAPAN.
An American Bride in Yeddo — " Getting Used to It" — Japanese Seclusion
— Commodore Perry's Visit and the Result — Western Ways in the Ascend-
ant — Foreign Teachers — A model School System — Liberty of the Press
— Downfall of the Aristocracy— The Birth-right of Twenty Centuries Ab-
dicated — Condescension of the Mikado — A new Holiday 160
CHAPTER XVIL
FROM JAPAN TO CHINA.
A Voyage along the Coast — White-sailed Fishing Junks— Terraced Mount-
ains — Fortifications — An enchanting Scene — Volcanoes — Rendezvous of
Pirates — Fate of the Deceived Pirates — Chinese Fishermen — The Typhoon
— Approach to Hong Kong — The Signal Gun — At Anchor — Sampans and
their Inmates — Broken China — Importuned by Sprightly-looking Girls —
Rowed Ashore by the fair Sex — How they Paddled ! — A Scramble at the
Landing — The Girls Beaten back and the Chairmen Triumphant 166
Xll CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER XVIII.
ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG.
Some Things We Liked — Chairs and Charioteers — An Excursion — Results of
Starting up the Leader — English Convicts— Government Gardens — Chinese
Washermen — A down Grade — A nice Trick — An Astonished Celestial —
— Our Chairman's Revenge — An uncharitable Landlord IVO
CHAPTER. XIX.
MORE ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG.
Caleb's Rashness— Gamblers — The Curse of the Country — Among the
Opium Smokers — The faithful Wife — Smoking-houses — Imitative Natives
— Bridget's Story — Cutting a Swarth — A Perfect Scare-crow 178
CHAPTER XX.
THE LAST OF HONG KONG.
Chinese Fashions — About the Women — Street Scenes— Policemen— Funerals
— Processions — Weddings — Dinner at a Restaurant — A Suspicious Dish
— The Mystery Solved — Caleb Excited— "A mean, dirty Swindle" 185
CHAPTER XXL
UP THE CANTON RIVER.
Opium Smuggling — A Detective — Dilapidated Forts — Reminisences of War
— Agricultural Scenes — Guardian Pagodas — Approach to Canton — Junks
and Sampans — Xo Buoys for Girl-babies — At Anchor — Beleaguered Pas-
sengers — Female Hotel-runners — Wildair Surrenders — An Attack in the
Rear — Rescued by Our bright-eyed Captor 194
CHAPTER XXIL
CANTON.
Seven Chinese Girls — Semi-celestials — Connoisseurs of Chinese Beauty —
The Foreign Suburbs — Native Ladies — A Festival — A Floating City by
Night — Rides about Canton — Native Industries — Inhuman Punishments
— Caged Men — On the Great Wall — Tartar Soldiers — Belated — Canton at
Night— Locked Within the Gates— Final Escape 206
CHAPTER XXIIL
AMONG THE CHINESE GODS.
The Mysterious Box — The Chinese Religion — Priests — Ancestral Worship —
Superstitious Customs — Buddhi?m — Sacred Swine — The God of Longevity
—Temple of the Dragon— A Heli less God 213
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE EMPIRE OF THE CELESTIALS.
General Features — Canals — Inland Commerce — The Emperor and his Wives
—The Mandarins— Soldiers— Tartars— The Coolie Trade 226
CONTENTS. Xiii
CHAPTER XXV.
OVER THE CniNA SEA TO FARTHER INDIA.
Life on a French Steamer— Third-class Passengers— The pretty German
Girl — State-room Visitors — Handsome French Ladies — Scandal on Ship-
board — Up the Saigon Eiver 233
CHAPTER XXVL
FUN AND ADVENTURE AT SAIGON.
A dismal Prospect— Disembarkation of Soldiers — Going Ashore— Droll
Encounter in the Suburbs — Dot a Prisoner — Escape from Amazons —
Saigon by Night — An Adventure in the Dark — Hasty Retreat — " Pulling
on ze leetle Shoe" — A Note for Mademoiselle — Siamese Customs — The
Brahmins — Temples of Siam 240
CHAPTER XXVII.
VOYAGE TO THE LAND OF THE MALAYS.
Morning on Deck — Airy Costumes — Amusements — Playing "Frog" and
" Log " — Caleb's Promenade — Dot's Troubles — The Malay Peninsula — A
Swimming Tiger — Singapore Harbor — Malayan Divers 252
CHAPTER XXVIIL
EXCURSIONS IN SINGAPORE,
A Drive to the City — Scenes on the Road — Among the Malays — At the
Mercy of Jehu — A hungry Horse — A Malayan Arena — Jehu Prepares for
a Storm — His Garments Overboard — Mysterious Dogs — An abominable
Swindle — Among the Monkeys — Boat-life in Malay 258
CHAPTER XXIX.
Ceylon's isle.
In the Bay of Bengal — Nicobar Islands — A Burial at Sea — The French-
man's Oriental Wife — A genuine Princess — " Spicy Breezes" — The City of
Point De Gallc — The Pilot and his Boat — A dazzling Display — At Anchor
— An Excursion on Shore — A brazen-faced Intruder — Tricks of the Trade
— An Insulted Runner — Guide or no Guide ? — Buying Parrots 267
CHAPTER XXX.
RAMBLES IN AND AROUND CEYLON.
The Forts — Sidewalk Jugglers — A Traveling Menagerie — Cinnamon Gardens
and Cocoanut Groves — Remarkable Cripples — Adam's Peak — Impudent
Rascals — Ceylon a Fraud 276
CHAPTER XXXL
EASTERN CIVILIZATION THE BRAHMINS.
EfiFects of Western Ideas — In the Temples — The Mysteries of Priesthood —
A Religion of Caste 284
Xiv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXII.
OVER THE ARABIAN AND RED SEAS.
The Journey Resumed — Veteran Bear-hunters — A Storm at Sea — Fun on
Deck — The Doctor's Pranks — Araby the Blest — A Town in a Crater —
Sight-seeing in Aden — Wonderful Eggs — A gulled Gull — Mecca — Mt.
Sinai— Suez 292
CHAPTER XXXIII.
GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH EGYPT.
Lazy Arabs — Moses' Well — An Evening at Suez — Rolling over the Desert —
Caravans — Egypt's new River — Scenes on the Desert — Cairo — A Stiff-
necked Race — An Oriental Paradise — A Beauty Unyeiled — Hard on the
Donkeys 302
CHAPTER XXXIV.
A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS.
The Guide and Donkeys — The Arabs of the Pyramids — " Beware of Your
Pockets " — On the Summit of Cheops — A tempting Proposal — " Old
Traditional" — Down in a Dungeon — Pharaoh's Telescope — The Grand
Gallery — Who Carried oflF the King and Queen ? — Ruins of Memphis 312
CHAPTER XXXV.
SIGHT-SEEING UNDER GROUND.
A Visit to the Catacombs — Immense Excavations — Old Ben Hassan — Weak
young Ladies — A mighty Archer — A Memento and its Fate — An Egyptian
Swindle 324
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE LANGUAGE OF THE MONOIENTS.
The Obelisks — An Ancient City — The Papyrus Manuscripts — Early Picture-
writing — Ingenious Lexicographers — Egyptian High Art 334
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE VESTIBULE OF THE OLD WORLD.
Alexandria — Street Scenes — Donkeys and Camels— Mementos of Cleopatra
— Pompey's Palace and Pillar — Manufactured Relics — Imperial Tombs —
Unpleasant Experiences — Beseiged by extortionate Arabs — Demoralized
Baggage — Detained by Force — A Strike on the High Seas— Wildair Quells
a Mutiny — Escape from Enemies — A parting Curse 342
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
FROM EGYPT TO SICILY AND ITALY.
Farewell to Africa — A peaceful Sea— First View of Italy— Up the Straits of
Messina — On thelslandof Sicily— The Evening Bells of Messina— Mount
JFAna. — Stromboli, the Light-house of the Mediterranean — Aboard an
Italian Steamer — Along the Italian Shores — Picturesque Mountains —
ElevatedHouses— BayofNaples— A sleepy Landlord— A Colorado Ghost. S5I
CONTENTS.
XT
CHAPTER XXXIX.
NAPLES.
Impoliteness to a " Guide" — Sunday in Naples — The Church of San Martino
— Visit to the Great Cathedral — Story of Saint Januarius — Public Exhibi-
tion of Miracles — Beautiful Statuary and Paintings — Sights on the Street
— Wax-work Miracles — Visit to the Bourbon Museum — Objects of Interest
— An Ecclesiastical Procession — A Stroll through the City — Three
young Ladies 359
CHAPTER XL.
WONBEKS OF THE COAST WEST OF NAPLES.
TheVillaReale— The Grotto of Porilipo— Tomb ofVirgil— The Dog's Grotto
— Cruel Tourists — Pozzuoli or Ancient Puteoli — Steps where St. Paul Land-
ed — Ruins of the Amphitheatre — The Temple of Serapis — Boat-fights
of Gladiators — A big Scramble — Cicero's Villa — Lake Lucrine — The Ruins
of Baiffi— A Temple of Venus— Dancing Girls 369
CHAPTER XLL
nERCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS.
Descent to the Buried City— Hidden for Eighteen Centuries— Wondrous
Relics of by-gone Ages— Bound for Mt. Vesuvius— Reminiscences of the
Volcano— Abused by the Guide— A Villainous Assault— At the Foot of
the Cone— Climbing Upwards— Red-hot Lava— At the Crater— A hasty
Retreat— Ride down the Mountain— A beautiful Sight— Another Swindle. 379
CHAPTER XLII.
THE BURIED CITY OF POMPEII.
A dry Storm— Approach to Pompeii— A wayside Inn and Its Lodgers—
Diomede's Mansion— Serene Sleepers— The Tomb of a Prize-fighter— The
Welcoming Inscription "Salva"— Calls at the old Homesteads— Nobody
at Home— Inside the Houses— The Forum and a Dungeon— Grimy Diggers
—A petrified Burglar Caught in the Act— The deserted Stranger— The
brave Roman Soldiers Who Scorned to Flee 387
CHAPTER XLIII.
FROM NAPLES TO ROME.
Surprising Charges— Railroad Experiences— A Blue-eyed Wonder— A Coun-
try Station- An old Story— Peasant Life— Italian Sunset— First View of
Rome— Model Hackmen— Astounded Foreigners— Sight-seeing 394
CHAPTER XLIV.
AMID THE RUINS OF ROME.
Descent to the Forum— Reminiscences of Caisar- Scenes of Departed Glory
—Rome's last Conquest Pictured in Stone— The Coliseum and its Scenes
—The Arch of Titus— Towering Ruins— Nero's Palace— The ancient
Etruscans and Their Tombs ^^'-
xvi CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XLV.
THE SPIRIT OF THE ETERNAL CITT.
St. Clement's Subterranean Church — St. Paul's Prison — The Underground
City by Torchlight — Ghastly Scenes — Retreats of early Christians and
later Robbers — St. Peter's Cathedral — Scenes within — The Priests and
People — The Scala Sancta — The Pope's Palace — Ancient Manuscripts. 410
CHAPTER XLVI.
FLORENCE AND VENICE.
Beautiful llorence — A Morning Excursion — Slighted by the Guard — Boboli
Garden — An ancient Church — The Palazzo Vecchio — In the Museum — A
remarkable Bridge — Smoky Tunnels — Approach to Venice — The City of
the Se.a — Looking for a Carriage — A Ride in a Gondola — Crossing the
Grand Canal — The Piazza and St. Mark's — The Rise and Decline of Venice
— Souvenirs of dreadful Days 418
CHAPTER XLVIL
OVER THE ALPS.
Milan — Lake Como -An Evening by the Lake — Colico — A lovely Valley —
Peasant Life — Amid the Foot-hills — Scenes by the "Way — At the Foot
of the Alps — Lively Times at a Swiss Village — Among the Vineyards —
Singing Girls — "Sour Grapes " — A Start up the Gorge — Torrents and
Waterfalls — Among the Clouds — A Snow-storm in the Mountains — On
the Summit — The Descent — Zurich — An Excursion into Germany 427
CHAPTER XLVIII.
PARIS AND LONDON.
Continental Passports — Relics of Barbarism — Down-trodden Paris — The
Tuileries — Relics of Imperialism at Auction — An American Lady's Bargains
— Versailles, Its Parks, Fountains, and Palaces — Lous XIV and Madam de
Marntenon — Sleigh-riding in Summer — Country Scdnes — Unbeaten Beets
— Holland Canoes — Paddling Peasants — London — Underground Railroad
—St. Paul's— Westminster Abbey— The "Poets' Corner"— The British
Museum — Assyrian Account of the Deluge — The Crystal Palace by Day
and Night — The Great Fire — Going to Hear Spurgeon — London Beggars —
The Lord Mayor's Show — Among the Roughs — Rescued by Policemen. . 435
CHAPTER XLXIX.
ACROSS THE ATLANTIC.
A Separation — Wildair Starts Homeward and Takes Passage in a Liverpool
Steamer bound forN. Y. — Irish Emigrants Taken on Board at Qucenstown
— Drunk, or very Jolly — A Look into the Steerage — Going Below — A
tipsy Bridegroom — Tin-ware Falling — Asking for More — The Lower Depths
— Evening Entertainments — Ominous Weather — A fearful Gale — Anxious
Nights — The Storm Abates — Land Ho ! — Home again from Foreign Shores. 451
o
Q
O
O
O
O
03
CHAPTER I.
OFF FOE THE MOUNTAINS.
"TTTE flung our liats, our " sheep skins " we flaunted in air ;
Y T our college days were ended ! Many a time we had
sat over our Latin and Greek as the rattling cars went gallop-
ing westward over the prairies, and thought, ere our lesson
was finished, that train would be out among the scampering
buffalo of the plains. We longed to be there, too ; but those
Greek and Latin roots bound us within the college walls.
These were glorious studies, and even to this day I recollect
them with emotions of joy. I look back and see ourselves
sitting side by side with those dear old books on the table
just in front, nodding, ever nodding. Now we were stuck
on a Greek root, and after long and weary toil Caleb succeeded
in unwinding its entangling flbres, then looked round exult-
antly, but only to And me asleep. Poor fellow, it was a lit-
tle discouraging, but his only alternative was to nudge me in
the side, and heavily my eyes drew open.
Again we became perplexed over some hard termination
or other, and of course I passed into the land of Nod. That
was not the worst of it. Upon awaking, instead of finding
that he had adjusted the difficulty, it was only to perceive
that I had been aroused by his snoring. It was my time
then to become discouraged, and after a few jerks under the
short ribs with my elbow he was brought to his senses — not
2 17
18
COLLEGE DAYS.
COLLEGE NIGHTS.
to learn that I had solved the difficulty, but that it was after
midnight and we must go to bed without our lessons.
But musty Greek roots were no longer to coil their tangled
meshes
about our
minds;
b u tf a 1 o,
dim binjx
m o u n -
tains,
storms
at sea, vis-
i o n s of
Oriental
climes, ad-
ventures,
scares,
activity, life, " hip, hip, hurrah ! " — such things as these were
shooting through every artery of our being.
Later in the fall Caleb, being rather of a religious turn of
mind, went out upon the frontiers of Colorado to preach till
spring, while I remained at home reading history and novels.
We completed our plans through correspondence during the
winter — and such plans as were occasionally suggested! They
comprised everything this side the moon.
The snowy folds of winter having rolled away, green
spring was beginning to smile upon the earth ; so toward the
first of April, 1873, I was off. The first evening, as I sat
looking out into the darkness, my eyes filled with tears, for
I had a long, hazardous journey before me, and had left
friends behind to whom I had given a long, and it might be
a last good-bye. In the western part of the state I stopped
a few days among friends whom I had not seen since I
started for college, all of whom greeted me kindly, and were
anxious to have me tarry ; but I must on.
So I jumped into the fastest train and was soon rolling
down between breakers into the Missouri valley at Council
RBC
NcU
TUE MISSOURI VALLEY.
10
BACHELORS OF ART.
Bluffs. As far as the eye could reach up and down this
beautiful valley it was perfectly level, with high Lluft's, from
live to ten
miles
apart, on
either side
of the
Miss ouri
river. Yes,
here was
the Mis-
souri riv-
er, so black
that the
dirt seem-
ed to bub-
ble up to be carried away on its surface. Yet this muddy
stream was a mighty one, extending from where the gulf's
billoM's ever roll and roar, to where the earth's tossed billows
rear their snow-capped heads above the clouds like breakers
on the upper deep. Tracing his downward course from his
home in the mountains to his larger home in the ocean, he
creeps along gathering strength, until angrily he throws a
coil against one side of the blufts of the valley, and another
against the opposite, his shifting tides in turn striking every
point of the bluffs, undermining and crumbling them down
into the broad extensive valley as smooth as a table.
In early times when the Indian roamed over the Missis-
sippi valle}-, an exploring party under Lewis and Clarke
ascended the Missouri in skiffs, and crossed the mountains
over into Oregon. While passing near Sioux City, Floyd,
one of their number, died. His comrades buried him on the
highest bluff they saw, and erected a large cedar post to
his memory, think'mg they had given him a secure, though a
solitary, resting place. Many a time the Indian's tomahawk
chipped that cedar post, but nothing disturbed the sleeper's
rest till one of the shifting coils of the stream attacked this
20
SCENES ON THE PLAINS.
prominent bluff, undermining where the quiet sleeper lay.
His remains appearing in the side of the bluff next the river,
a man was let down by ropes to secure them, and now they
are resting farther back upon the same bluff, to sleep on till
again disturbed by this unsatiated stream, or awakened by
the trump of God.
But westward ! the plains ! the mountains ! the Indians !
the new, the wild, the unexplored! To me these were
thoughts of a magic charm, impelling me onward with an
electric thrill . Rolling over the fertile prairies of the
Platte one hundred and fifty miles, then shooting like an
arrow three hundred miles more across a placid sea of green
M'here the only land-marks were the wrecked carcasses of
buffalo, we entered a half barren track where the sand ap-
*' BUFFALO " !
peared between the bunches of buffalo grass from eight to
ten inches apart — where great numbers of prairie dogs scam-
pered to their holes to give the closing scene of hind legs
and tail twinkling in air — where droves of antelope skimmed
ALONG THE MOUNTAINS. 21
the prairie away from the approaching train until, beyond
clanger, they turned upon their heels to stare a moment, and
then unconcernedly continue their grazing — -where buffalo
were frequently seen in the distance, but always proved to
be a knoll, or other object, upon ajiproaching. Now a gen-
tleman exclaimed " butlalo ! buffalo ! " All rushed to the
opposite windows, and lo ! a Thomas sAvine was making a
sturdy quick-step along the track, grunting as he went.
liolling on through a country growing rougher, and still
more so toward the mountains, passing bluff's, and at times
apparent islands with perpendicular rockj' sides, rising high
above the level country around, and on till in the distance
rose up the snow-capped mountains dazzling in the sunlight
upon the canvas of white clouds beyond, growing closer and
closer as the cars wound around the foot hills throuijh snow
fences and sheds, the train halted at Cheyenne, 516 miles
from Omaha.
Denver was 110 miles south, and I changed cars to soon
be shooting along from fffteen to twenty miles from the foot
of the mountains, yet apparently much closer. Long's Peak,
fort}' or fifty miles to the right, appeared onlj' a few iniles
away, while Pike's Peak, eighty miles beyond Denver, seemed
but twenty or twenty-five miles distant.
Tiie country along the track was somewhat barren and
broken ; we occasionally passed a valley productive by irriga-
tion, and the whole was a fine grazing country. Greeley was
in a rich vallev about' half way between Chevenne and Den-
t/ «y «/
ver. Its many ditches told of irriijation, and evervthina:
looked new and flourishing. On toward Denver the country
was smooth and ju'oductive, and thousands of cattle roamed
over the green prairies.
As the train moved up to the depot I looked out for Caleb,
but no Caleb M-as there. Kext day, when in the post office I
accidentally raised my eyes and looked out into the street ;
at once I exclaimed to myself, " Yonder goes Caleb ! " The
personage in the street rode along a few yards, alighted, and
tied his ponies. "While doing this I stepped up with a smile,
22
CALEB AND HIS PONIES.
put out my hand, " How are you, old fellow." Caleb was
taken completely by surprise, and of course grinned all over.
" How fleshy you are, Caleb ; Colorado preaching must
agree with you."
"Who wouldn't be fleshy! That lazy pony would afford
exercise for a professional spurrer."
" Come now, don't slander that pony ; you know those
dear old sistei's have been pampering you on Methodist
chickens."
" I am but too sorry those dear old sisters, as you call
them, left their chickens in the States. But, by the way,
Wildair, I brought that pony along for you. Now you, the
TOIiNCi II I. M OL'T.
smaller, jump on him the larger, and T, the larger, will jump
on this one, the smaller, and we will be oft' for the livery."
" I suppose your policy in riding that small one is that
upon his becoming mired, you can catch the pommel of the
saddle, carry him out to dry land, and jog along without hav-
ing the trouble of getting off" and on."
" Mistaken ; this small one never sticks, and he can beat
the M-orld at kicking. Were 1 to ride that one he would
mire sure, and my only alternative would be to get a long
lever, raise one of his ends, jump on my pony, wrap his tail
round the pommel of the saddle, and tote him out ! "
CHAPTEK II.
WANDEEmGS IN COLOEADO.
LIKE the wild herder without liome save his pair of
blankets, frying pan, cup and cofFee-pot, and without
tent save the sky above him, we mounted our saddles for a
ride through the plains and mountains of Colorado ; at night,
lying down beside a dry pine log fire, while our ponies
grazed their fill and then came to nod and sleep in the camp
light. However, if some cabin about sunset seemed design-
edly thrown in our way, we unceremoniously unsaddled and
stopped with the bachelors for the night — that is, if they
were not all away from home ; in that case we modestly
huilt our fire outside, though herders frequently assumed the
duties of the house in the absence of the inmates — perhaps
having supper ready when they returned.
Our first few days' ride, however, was not out on the
broad plains where the herder tends his cattle in sight of vast
droves of bufi^^^lo ; neither was it in the narrow mountain
gorges where the miner in the foaming stream washes out
the shining metals — but between these two extremes, where
the mountains and the plains met in embrace, and lau'rhinc
streams coursed their way along numerous valleys. Here the
herders in many cases had wives, comfortable homes, and
small farms yielding wonderful crops. They did not ask for
the rains of heaven, but looked to the snow-capped moun-
tams, whose melting waters they turned from their natural
channels into artificial ditches, winding around the hill sides
or along the borders of the valleys.
24
A MAGIC VALLEY.
About half way from Denver to Pike's Peak we struck a
spur of the mountains, shooting out into the plain and divid-
ing the waters of the Platte from those of the Arkansas.
"We had heard of a lovely spot of earth situated somewhere
in this locality, a few miles from the road. So ere the de-
parting sun drew through the mountain gaps her golden rib-
bons, we turned up a green valley which, though miles in
length, was as straight as the last threads of light that
streamed down this magic way. It was so regular, so lovely,
I imagined an angel had inverted a rainbow and with it
plowed his course far into the mountains.
Along the bottom ran a careless Indian trail through the
carpet of green, while far up the curving sides were groves
THE bachelors' WELCOME.
of evergreen with inviting retreats almost inducing us to
leave the path. By and by forms of monuments appeared
among the evergreen on our left, as though rocks, like trees,
could grow from the green unbroken turf.
PLEASANT PARK.
25
At the end of the valley we halted. Below us lay Pleasant
Park, surrounded by lofty rocks, stony fortifications, within
whose walls were towering ruins as of a mighty city shaken
down by the hand of God. Some of the standing walls
were red like brick, others white like marble. Long we
watched the fitful lights and shadows of the moon play their
wondrous charms among those eternal remains. In that
green and level valley from which they arose stood groves of
lofty pines, like tender household plants in the door-yards
of a deserted city.
Down in the park, in a secluded spot, we found a cabin of
three bachelors who bade us welcome as old friends. On the
walls were great horns upon which were racked their guns,
while about the room lay Daniel Boone's complement of dogs.
One of the men, wearing buckskin pants with five hundred
dangling strings, cooked us a good supper; then we lay our-
selves down on furs and bufialo robes among the dogs to
sleep.
Isext morning they pointed out, two miles distant, the side
view of a monstrous Indian face. The Bed man of these
regions called him " Tewat," as the stern visage looked like
their chieftain of
that name. Men
may have carved
the Sphynx of
Egypt, but no
h u m a n ladder
ever reached up
this perpendic-
ular rock, a thous-
and feet high, to
cut this face. It
must have been a
grand thought to
this Tewat, that
^1.^^^
TEWAT.
the Great Chieftaiti had stamped his image upon the eternal
rock as a witness of his commission to rule.
26 THE BEAR ROCK.
But a stranger phenomenon was the picture of a bear on
the face of a rock. The longer I looked at it the more I was
puzzled. So perfectly in shape, size, and color, did it resem-
ble the brown cinnamon bear of these regions, that a number
of rifle balls had been fired into it, apparently through mis-
take. These scars, which were about an inch in depth, gave
us a better opportunity of inspection ; but, like every sub-
ject that is unfathomable, all light only revealed new myste-
ries. Had it not been for these perforations, showing that
the color extended at least an inch in depth, I would have
concluded that an artist of some race inhabiting this country
prior to the Indian, had painted this picture upon the stone,
immortalizing his skill, though his name and race had van-
ished. But I know of no paint that will saturate a stone,
and yet not leave the outlines perceptibly blurred.
This pictured rock, I believe, has never been described by
any traveler, though it is well known to the Indians, Mexi-
cans, hunters, and the settlers. It is situated in a canyon of
Purgatory River, twenty -five miles above Fort Lyons. The
people all wonder how it was formed, and the idea has some-
how spread among them that a bear standing near had been
photographed by a flash of lightning.
After riding round through Pleasant Park among the
monuments until tired of seeing and admiring, we keeled
over on the green grass in the shadow of a lone rock as steep
as any wall, towering up into the sky perhaps two hundred
feet.
The rocks of this park are the same layers as stand on.
their edges so grandly thirty miles to the south in the Garden
of the Gods, in which the traveler may wander up narrow
grassy streets between smooth perpendicular walls that seem
to tower into the sky : the same also as form such imposing
entrance to Masie's Hole, known in early days as Devil's
Hole. The entrance was then guarded by a band of horse-
thieves, while the interior formed a corral large enough for
ten thousand horses, with abundant pasture. It is now occu-
pied by farmers and herders who have put a gate across the
A SQUIRREL HUNT.
27
entrance, keeping their cattle within from mixing with out-
side herds. This place of wondrous beauty is about fifty
miles south of the Garden of the Gods, and many miles of
the country between are colored red as blood with the dust
of these crumbled monuments. When those lofty granite
mountains to the west of this region poj^ped their heads
through the ground, they must have thrown the whole crust
of the earth along here on its edge. Only the hardest layers
of rock yet remain.
As our ponies were grazing, the luggage on the small one
worked to one side, touching him in the flank, Avhen, as
quick as the flash of a gun, he went into a fit of kicking.
"Wildair was considerably frightened, but I took it coolly, for
I had seen that pony kick before. What did I now care for
his kicking ? My foot was not in the stirrup ! Finally he
freed himself of everything save the saddle which slid down
on his tail ; then he streaked it toward a deep ravine, turned
a somersault, and alighted at the bottom of it.
We had just got ready to start again, when Wildair espied
a squirrel. Ofi' he goes, I after him and he after the squirrel,
A NARROW ESCAPK.
leaving the ponies to take care of themselves. The squirrel
runs up a tree, but that is just what Wildair wants ; I never
28 TREEING A SQUIRREL.
Baw such a fellow ; lie never gets tired of shooting. The
second shot brings the squirrel, over which Wild air seems as
deljo-hted as if he had shot a buffalo with a cannon seven
miles off. As we stow him away, Wildair continues to boast
over his shooting and the line aim he took, to which I as-
sented :
" Oh, certainly, certainly, I never heard of such tall shoot-
ing ! Only think of bringing a squirrel from the top of a tree
with a revolver no longer than your linger ! "
A few rods more Wildair is off again, and I after him.
This time he sights fine, but the squirrel doesn't come. I
take aim M'ith my large revolver, that gets on a higli, dis-
charging all the barrels at once, but the squirrel doesn't
come. AYildair also loads up his seven barrels again and
again, he standing on one side of the tree and I on the other,
shooting, but the squirrel doesn't come. He now climbs the
tree and shoots, while I, to keep the squirrel in his sight,
stand off on the opposite side, throwing clubs and stones,
wliich seem more likely to hit Wildair than the squirrel ; but
the squirrel doesn't come.
Then AVildair creeps up to another limb, though anxiously
solicited not to proceed higher. At last the squirrel is on
the tip-top limb spreading its tail as if about to fly away, and
he right beneath it reaching up his arm.
"A little closer, Wildair; roach a trifle closer, and you
know the powder will save us the trouble of singing."
Bang ! Bang ! and down comes the creature ; but the mo-
ment it strikes the ground away he bounces in the direction
of a large rock, up which he scampers, while Wildair scram-
bles down with triumph to get his squirrel; but tlie squirrel
is gone. I dangle my feet in the air, laughing, while he rolls
and tumbles me over and over in search. In vain I assure
him that I have done nothing with his game; he is inwardly
convinced that the fall would have killed any squirrel, thougli
he maintains to this day there was no room for such a catas-
trophe in this case.
As we rode on we passed a house by the roadside which I
THE OLD HOUSE BY THE ROADSIDE. 29
watched with the deepest interest, and when on the hill I
turned and took a last, long look : I seemed to be parting
with an old friend. Wildair desired to know what interest
so deep could be connected with such a common-looking
house ; so I soon found myself relating the story.
" It was here as a lonely wanderer I ate my first supper in
Colorado. I then was a stranger, as you know, to every
human being in the territory.
" I was on my way to Southern Colorado or any place else.
"When 1 left Denver in the morning I inquired the way to
Colorado City, and was told there were two or three roads,
but that the one by West Plum Creek was the nearest, though
roughest, as it kept close to the mountains. Then I asked
who lived along West Plum Creek about a day's ride distant,
and was referred to a Mr. Hopkins. I inquired if they ever
had preaching near by, and was informed that they did in a
school-house of the neighborhood about five miles beyond,
and that the preacher often stopped with this family. I rode
on enjoying the mountains and the new world around me.
I did not have a bite for dinner, but lay down at noon on the
grass under some pine, to drink in the enchantment of the
strange, beautiful scenery of the mountains, which, range
beyond range, rolled away into snowy peaks amongst whose
infinite vastness I longed to wander.
"When my pony neighed, and then went down to the
stream to drink, 1 concluded he had eaten grass enough, and
again rode on.
" He was the oddest pony I ever saw — cinnamon colored,
white sided, white striped, white footed, ball faced, glass eyed,
and fat ; but I wouldn't have cared for all that only he pre-
tended to be able to know when it was time to stop for the
ni:;ht.
" Just at dark I inquired the distance to Hopkins', and was
informed that it was eiirht miles. Then commenced a scene
of whipping and spurring, which, before it was through
with, almost hardened my heart against all ponies. I spurred
until compassion arose, but as soon as I commenced pitying
30
COLORADO HOSPITALITY.
he stopped to pitj himself. There was no moon, but the
playing lightnings lit up the summit of the mountains, whose
dark bases appeared like black clouds right before my face,
but which I seemed never to approach.
" But it wouldn't do to lay out in the face of a storm ; and
finally the pony concluded to jog slowly on.
By and by, with joy I saw a light near the road, for, strange
as it may seem, they had a window in their house. Hopkins
A BLOOUy KECEPTION.
was not a bachelor. At the door I dismounted and knocked.
A motherly-looking woman opened it.
" ' Is this where Mr. Hopkins lives ? ' I inquired.
" ' Yes, sir.'
" ' Do you receive preachers into your house ? I am on my
way to Southern Colorado, and would be glad to stop over
night with you.'
" * O ! certainly ; come in ; leave your pony ; some one will
take care of him.'
A SUNDAY VISITOR.
31
" 111 half an hour more in came half a dozen large, stern-
looking frontiersmen ; but the sternest, most dauntless look-
ing one was Mr. Hopkins. I seemed like a tender child be-
fore their hardy natures, and felt almost as much like running
as speaking. Their hands and arms were bloody from skin-
ning a bear which they had killed that evening.
"Next morning just after breakfast, a large grizzly bear
came down from the jagged mountains, ran across the broad
grassy plot before the door, and disappeared on the left among
some low,
s h r u b by
oak. Out
started all
the men
with their
guns, call-
ing to the
dogs as
they ran.
Some
went
around the
rocks and
SUNDAY RECREATION.
woods to scare him out, while Mr. Hopkins took up a
position near the road to shoot the bear as he returned.
My nature was to go too, but you see it was the Sabbath.
Soon, however, they returned without any bear, Grizzly hav-
ing scampered back safely across the road.
" Somehow, that house seems strangely dear to me, because
the scenes were so new, the people so kind, and I so lonely."
Finally, as we proceeded on our way Wildair became in-
terested in shooting at the little prairie dogs, which, on our
approaching their village, skedaddled, each to his mound,
where he stood barking faster and faster as we approached.
When we came so near one that he could bark no faster, he
popped into his hole, and we heard a last rapid whe-we-we
and saw the final twinkle of his tail.
32
AMONG THE PRAIRIE DOGS.
But WilJair -would persevere in showing how straight he
shot, and how his balls struck right on the opposite side of
where they sat. So, after having told him a hundred times,
even if he did shoot one with his little revolver he could not
— '^':^'»^^t,*«s*«,.
FULLY CONVINCED,
get him, I tried making fun of his shooting. So when he
said —
" Did you see that ? the ball struck exactly on the opposite
side of where he stood ; " I replied, looking in the opposite
direction —
" Oh, certainly, certainly, you put a hole through one
every time ; how can I doubt that, since seeing your perform-
ance on that last squirrel ? "
But that remark only whet his appetite ; so I rode on, tell-
ing him I was so fully convinced I thought it useless to tarry
longer. "When last I looked around I espied him four miles
away, still pulling trigger at those barking puppies of the
desert.
"When Wildair overtook me I was sitting upon a jagged
rock of the M-all of the Garden of the Gods, watching the
zigzag lightnings play about the summit of Pike's Peak just
beyond. That great battery, having become charged with
electricity, telegraphed to the clouds, which came flying — gath-
TEMPLES OF TIME,
33
ering as they flew — until the elements met in wild fury and
fierce array around the awful summit, while unseen wires be-
came red as flame and fiery javelins pierced the mountain.
It seemed fit that down from those awful heights the fu-
rious gods should come to spend their calmer moods in this
garden, from whose surface, so level and green, towered
variously colored rucks of startling grandeur yet fantastic
forms of beauty.
But we wandered outside the garden, far away along
Monument Creek, where the white columns of their ruined
temples arose amid the evergreens and over the valleys, a,s
strange, if not as
fanciful, as any
that ever adorned
the heathen tem-
ples of ancient
Greece and
Rome. Though
the ceiling had
fallen, yet fre-
quently a broad
flat stone re-
mained strangely
poised upon the
^ top of a column.
^ The music that
used to echo here
was the wild
ocean's roar, as
declared by the
pillars of cement-
ed gravel.
We next wan-
dered up amid
MONUMENT ROCKS. the mouutaius, to
the Soda Springs, whose gaseous waters formed a flowing
soda fountain that would both raise bread and elevate one's
'6
34. DOUBLE FALLS.
feelings. After drinking large draughts it seemed that
springs were under our heels, and we were soon up about the
"Double Falls," loosing large stones to dash and plunge into
the nnseen depths below, while all the chasms around echoed
back every boom and crash, or prolonged and modified them
to suit their hollow voices. We tried our lungs ; ^ve had
only to open our mouths and the chasms opened theirs to the
mountains, and the mountains spake back to the chasms.
We grew wild with delight — we halloed — we whooped — we
modified our voices in a thousand strains while waving bur
hands, gloating upon the vastness around between rocks and
mountains, who, as if full with utterance, spake back to our
ravished senses siich tones as we had never heard — tones
larger than Pike's Peak and deeper than five hundred wells.
Creation seemed our speaking trumpet, while we M-ere raised
in feeling above the mountains.
At evening M^e Avandered back to Colorado. City, with its
crumbling buildings speaking of its high but fallen hopes.
CHAPTER III.
FEONTIER LIFE.
I HAD some lively experiences before the arrival ofWildair.
My circuit extended over the scattered settlements from
the Green Horn Mountains to Fort Lyons, a distance of one
hundred and fifty miles along the Arkansas Eivcr.
Here I found all the romance of hardships I desired. My
appointments were mostly in log cabins without floors or
windows, the people from Texas even complaining that the
cold required them to daub up the cracks. Upon entering
them I could not see a particle, but said : " How do you do? "
They managed to find my hand and we had a sociable time.
Were it too cold to throw open the door, they lit a faint can-
dle or punched the fire so I could see to read the hymn;
then we were all right for the rest of the services, though I
looked in vain for tears to be shed — it was too dark.
Las Animas City, within a mile of Fort Lyons, I found the
excrescence of creation ; the scum of railroad towns floated
down there and lodged round a military post. I first en-
tered this village one Saturday evening just as the echo of
the sunset-gun was dj-ing 43ut over the plains. The people
were on a high. Before me passed a young girl with a cigar
in her mouth, cracking her fists, and reeling toward a saloon
where men were gambling. ITp to them she marched, inter-
rupting their game, and gave them distinctly to understand
that she was around, and must have a treat, or some of
them would enjoy the luxur}' of bloody noses.
'Next morning as I tried to hold services in an unoccupied
35
36
A MIXED CONGREGATION.
room, the clatter of hammers against horses' shoes in the ad-
joining shop was the chorus of each song.
During the day one hardy frontiersman sought the oppor-
tunity of an interview with me. As he began to talk, tears
iilled his eyes, which had not wej)t for years. lie told me
from an overflowing heart
and in pathetic language,
of the new life and hope
that once dawned npon
liis mind ; of the higher
bliss, the more rapturous
joy he then experienced
and felt to be not of
earth,but streaming down
from Heaven. Then he
deplored the condition
into which he had drift-
ed — not so much through
his own fault as through
the downward tendencies
of all around him. Upon
the currents of unmixed
evil he was here thrown,
and borne farther and
farther away from the
things he used to love. "With bitterness he told me it must
remain so ; he could not stem the tides. Upon leaving he
firmly grasped my hand, and with emphasis said :
" For God's sake, be firm."
In Boggsvillc, near by, my first congregation were Indians,
Mexicans, Europeans, and a mixture of these that I have not
arithmetic to express. However, the gentleman in whose
liouse I held the services had a splendid mansion, while around
him were the cabins of his tenants, forming a village. As
every one gazed at my tall hat until it went out of sight, 1
threw it away, and my host gave me one from his store with
a low crown and a broad drooping rim. I also found it quite
INVITING A TREAT.
I
1
SQUAWS AS HOUSEKEEPERS. 37
convenient to resort to Lis smith shop when my ponj needed
shoeing ; and his harness shop proved very handy -when I
wanted to swap my old sinch for a new one. lie had an im-
mense herd of cattle, and several square miles of land. The
latter, I understood, he received as a premium from the gov-
ernment for raising a number of children equally related to
the Indians and the whites, as a civilizing policy. His wife
sometimes left his fine mansion and ran away to the wigwam
of her childhood, but as often he brought her back. But
still she would be an Indian, strapping her papoose on her
back, and hiding about the house like a wolf. The daughter
of Colonel Bent — her neighbor — though a half-breed, was
refined, could pla}' on the piano, entertain guests, and had a
warm, noble heart, yet her sister was as tameless as a fox,
preferring to spend most of her time with her mother's rel-
atives.
She belongred to the Plain Indians who are the eternal
enemies of the Mountain Indians. Formerly both M'ere
friendly to the Whites, passing up and down the Arkansas to
meet on the war-path. The last time the Plain Indians
passed up this way they came with their rifles, breathing ven-
g-eance asrainst the Utes of the IVIountains. But no sooner
had they arrived at Colorado City, than they treacherously
wheeled about and returned, scalping the helpless settlers
who had permitted them to pass and made no preparation
for such betrayal of trust. I was shown the tree near which
two little boys, brothers, were killed while driving home the
cows. Almost every neighborhood had its fortified house
where the people collected in time of danger. The Utes
were still friendly to the Whites, passing up and down the
Arkansas Biver, as of old, to replenish their store of buffalo
meat. I might tell of Indian scares innumerable, of families
fleeing from tribes of friendly Utes mistaken for Plain In-
dians, and wives and children sorely frightened during the
absence of the heads of families.
One day a neighbor woman rushed into the house where
1 stopped. I knew at once the cause of her fright, and i;n-
38 AN INDIAN CAMP.
mediately hastened to her home, to find a nnmber of peaceable
Utes at the door. The warriors, with their flash j colors,
continued to pass for an honr in gangs of three and four,
riding up to the house to beg, or trade for arms. Their very
looks were frightful. Then for^ a couple of hours passed
scattered squads of squaws, driving ponies loaded with tents
and bundles of poles, one end dragging on the ground.
As the mantle of darkness spread around, the Avar-whoop
of these savages rendered the niglit air hideous ; so I wan-
dered thither, far, far down the river to them. In a cove-
shajDed nook of timber their wigwams were pitched, and lit
up by a common camp lire around which a party of braves
were still dancing. It was a beautiful scene, so nature like ;
there were their groups of nodding ponies. Upon entering
the camp an Indian poked out his head from a wigM-am with
the salutation " How, how ; come in," and in I crept. Around
a little lire whose smoke ascended through the top, curled
the lazy inmates, apparently a part of two families, forming
a circle, the head of one being in contact with the feet of
another, while the back of each individual touched the tent.
Upon a couple of hot stones were slapjacks baking. AVhen
ready to turn, they were leaned against some pegs before the
fire to give the other side a scorching, then throM'n to the
stupid savages to devour.
When they desired to retire for the night, they had simply
to draw the curtain over their eyes and the thing was effected.
Or when the squaws wished to jirepare breakfast, the only
requirement was to rub their eyes, raise themselves upoii
their elbows, and go to baking — M'ithout the vexation of
dressing, washing, combing the hair, or even moving a peg.
Upon their begging for matches and tobacco, I indicated I
wasn't a smoker, when these suspicious savages (a couple of
squaws, by the way) concluded that seeing was believing, and at
once instituted a search. So I climbed out of that — not that I
liad much money to lose, for in those days I lived upon charity
myself. The "head" of the hovel crept out after me, whis-
pering slyly in my ears " whiskey, whiskey." As I had none
DREARY SOLITUDE.
39
to give, ho took me aside and secretly inquired, the best he
could, as to the whereabouts of the Plain Indians, whom they
dreaded to meet in open country, but with whom they would
liave rejoiced to battle among the rocks of their own native
liills.
But AVildair and I visited them at their homes in the
mountains. We did not wonder that they were peaceable, for
they had nothing more to lose ; their game was all gone,
never to return, and when the charities of the Whites fail,
all these tribes nnist go
to work or starve. After
having traveled two days
in a retrion so wild that
the Indians must feel
gloomy, our provisions
tailed us. In the after-
noon, at the head of a
fertile little valley, we
passed the ranche of some
bachelors, but they had
nothing for us, thougli
we were cut with hunger
and almost begged for a
little of their greasy side
meat and a few sad bis-
cuits.
Next morning I heard
a wild pheasant flapping
its "wings ; 'twas the lone-
liest sound I ever heard.
ON THE HUNT.
I wandered up amid the rocks, and
climbed above frowning precipices, but could not tell from
whence the sound proceeded ; it seemed to come from every
stone around. I climbed to the summit, full of lonely, dreamy
thoughts.
I lay upon a wild and rugged rock,
O'crpowcrcd by chasms deep,
And gazed into the desolations round
Where Nature lay asleep.
^0
ENCOUNTER WITH TEX.1N CATTLE.
The bleaching bones of vanished buffalo
Foretold the Red Man's fate;
No more amid those rocks he pens his game,
For else, too desolate.
But in these parts remained a few mountain sheep, and an
occasional wild Texan ox escaped from some herd. The peo-
ple have found that Texan cattle must be kept on the plains.
So wild are their natures that, should a drove see a man alone
and on foot upon the broad prairies, his Hfe would be in dan-
ger. One day as I rode across the plains far from the river,
I noticed Texan cattle unherded coming on the run toward
me. My horse was M-hite, and attracted their attention far
WILD CATTLE OF THE PLAINS.
and near. By swinging my coat, and plunging my horse at
them, I managed to keep them at bay, and finally put the
drove to route. It would have required a swift horse to keep
ahead of their stampede.
We stopped over night with a solitary but well-to-do
bachelor. He cooked our supper and breakfast, swept the
A LADY'S EXPERIENCES. 41
house, and more, accommodated us with the kixury of a tol-
erably comfortable bed.
But, take it all in all, bachelors are the roughest set of
housekeepers that ever undertook such duties. Their dirt
floors, their greasy pokers, their jams, their door-posts, seem-
ingly rubbing posts for hogs — are enough to frighten any
lady or even the Old Scratch himself. My sister visited me
in Colorado, and being romantic, I bought her a pony, on
which she accompanied me once around the circuit, which
was a distance of nearly four hundred miles. One day, my
pony having given out, we rode up to a herder's cabin, round
which we saw several ponies grazing, to banter theui for a
trade.
The young bachelors were very kind, and invited us to have
some dinner with them. With joy we alighted and entered,
for I was always hungry in Colorado. But Roxanna was
taken by surprise, although I had tried to picture to her the
mode of life these weary men lead. Our meal consisted of
beaver tail and beans, served in a black- pot set on a low box
before us, into which we dived one at a time, filling our tin
plates, and eating with forks that had long since lost their
handles. One of the young fellows politely used his fingers.
The beds, blankets, and saddles, were twisted up in an inglo-
rious pile on the floor.
At another place where Boxanna and I took dinner, we
were all eating away with great satisfaction and relating inci-
dents of our lives ; as one fine-looking man whom they called
" Major," was telling some of his hardships in Libby Prison —
how it shattered his health, how he came to the territory to
recuperate, and of the wonderful vigor he was beginning to
feel — an incident transpired that cut short his remarks.
An old hen, happy with the thought of having become
the mother of an eg^, came flying from some back apart-
ment for the open door, and with a loud cackle and wonderful
tlounder, lit plump in the great plate of fat meat, throwing
\he pieces and gravy all over the table and into our faces !
Then, with another fearful bound, she flapped her greasy
42
PROPOSALS OF MARRIAGE.
\ving3 over our heads, and was off. But tlio Major cau<^]it
the worst dose, as the chicken's feet slipped out from under
A. "foul " DINRBR.
her with great violence, a time or two, in the direction of his
face. That invading form ! I still sometimes see it in my
dreams. The Major did not finish his story.
Though a young lady could hardly be in Colorado a week
without receiving a number of proposals, yet Roxanna received
too greasy an introduction ; all their propositions slipped off.
Were I a lady, before I would marry one of these bachelors, I
would require him to burn down his greasy shanty and build
a clean one, throw all liis clothes to the flames, scour himself
with a brick, syringe the drooling cud from his mouth, and
even then I would not have him, for nothing can reach his
mind, to purify the fountain of his thoughts that have been
corrupted by the scenes of his surroundings. Yet there are
exceptions to this rule, when the sudden presence of a pure
and lovely angel at his ho*ne brings back, like a flash, the re-
A REFORMED BACHELOR. 43
membrances of former times, for many of them luul been
reared in tlie lap of luxury and ease, and once knew the
charms of refinement.
One day, cold, dripping and wet, "Wildair and I rode from
early morn through the mountains, amid clouds of fog and
descending snow-Hakes, In the afternoon we came npon a
cabin, where we stood the rest of the day like hungry, drip-
ping rats, on the rickety hearth in an unearthly looking
house, while back of us were four men of intellect, but fallen
refinement, who, eager for excitement and thrilling events,
had come to this wonderful West. There they sat, round a
table that they would once have shuddered to touch, gambling
over money they liad received through the grand lottery of
the "West — gold mining — while filthy M'ords and vile oaths
rolled from their mouths.
By and by, in came another man who looked as if he be-
longed to civilization ; he tarried but a short time, seeming
to have something to do, something to occupy his mind this
rainy day. Making inquiries, we learned that he owned a
saw mill, and lived in a honse not three rods distant, which
was hidden from view by the clouds.
When supper time came, to our delight he invited us to
his house. As we entered, our eyes first caught glimpses of
clean paper trimmings npon the shelves, and the white stand
table covering, npon which were a few little trinkets taste-
fully arranged, and we seemed to have seen an angel — yes,
another step and there she stood, as neat as a white pigeon
and pretty as a dove. Three weeks before this man had been
living as these other bachelors were ; but he had the good
sense and fortune to go down toward Denver and get him a
jewel of a wife. TIow his heart leaped witii joy as he sat
down around a table with a snow-white spread, on which was
inviting food served in beautiful dishes. I had seen so much
of dirt that I came near rejoicing aloud, but I quenched my
feelings. When at night we lay down in a soft clean bed,
her angelic presence seemed to hover ronnd, and I then and
there said in my heart some hard things against bachelors.
44 BOUND FOR THE MOUNTAINS.
I thought this reformed bachelor — reformed Hke a magic, his
feet taken from the pit and miry clay and set upon flowery
beds of comfort and beauty, and his weary head laid upon a
snowy pillow — enjoyed more comfort in a single hour than
one of those other lonely, filthy greasers would enjoy in a
lifetime of vexation, disappointment, and sorrow. A man
robbed of the society of woman is the filthiest looking brute
I ever saw. The deer, the rabbit, the wild birds of these re-
gions, seem born of the sky in contrast.
At this time Wildair and I were on our way from Colorado
City westward into the mountains, bound to stand face to
face with the grandest of those distant eternal pillars of the
sky, that had beckoned me thither ten thousand times when
ridin"- on my weary rounds on the plains. They had called
me with a passion, day after day for months, and now, with
Wildair equally wild in his first enthusiasm, I was at last to
approach those mighty forms, and try to throw my arms
around their infinite vastness.
Next morning the clouds were lifted high, and drifting
down the mighty gorge to^\ard the plains like great chunks
of broken ice on the upper deep. The bright sunshine
played between the pieces down into the ethereal river, while
above, on either shore of the stream, stood the eternal peaks
clad in their mantles of purity and bright in the clear sky of
heaven. Soon the sun came out, the snow fled up the moun-
tains, and stretching carpets of green spread themselves be-
neath our feet.
Toward evening we found ourselves upon an elevated
rido-e, and before us in the west opened a scene of vast ex-
tent. The rolling mountains, dark with evergreen, rose
higher and still more rugged in the far-off distance ; but lar
beyond these, set in the golden sky, were snoM-y ranges of
peaks so remote they seemed to be the eternal spires that
lined the bound of creation. The clouds rolled away, open-
ing distance beyond distance, then dropped their golden
spires down to meet the silvery spires of earth, as if to form
portals through which to pass to heaven. To angels they
PETRIFIED STUMrS. 45
must have appeared as the gates to this dark eartli, through
which only scattered rays of h'ght were shining; to us they
appeared as openings leading into the Beyond, illuminated by
the smiles of Heaven.
I^ear the roadside we visited the " Petrified Stumps,"
about twenty in number, scattered along a grassy valley.
Out of the hollow of one over a dozen steps in circumference,
had grown a large tree whose trunk liad fallen and now lay
mouldering in the grass, while the original stumj) seemed to
laugh at its decay.
In these high altitudes, the atmosphere is so thin that there
is no covering to break oif the splendor of the sun, or none
to keep what heat he gives, so that the moment he sinks from
view the warmth flies upward, leaving the world and poor
campers like us to shake with a tit of ague until his return.
But still there were charms in sitting before the bright blaze
of the camp tire flashing out under the boughs of the deep
green foliage of pine — fun in roasting our venison on the end
of a long jiole, and relish in eating it. Four pounds dis-
posed of gave a wonderful amount of pleasure to a couple of
huge animated lumps that keeled over on the grass to con-
template mischief for the evening.
On the side of the ravine where we lay was a forest so
dense that no eye could discern that beneath the lofty foliage
towered a grand mountain. Up the grassy valley here and
there stood solitary evergreens, their silver-coated foliage
glittering in the moonlight. I^p, up tliey rose, tapering into
perfect cones that seemed to i)ierce the sky. On the oppo-
site side of the valley many had been killed and badly burned
bv the tires, yet their leafless trunks stood as lonff, straiirht,
and tapering as the arrows used by the mighty angels during
the tierce battle of heaven.
" Look here, Wildair, I can't see a ]-)article of sense in slee])-
ing over here by one tire that's likely to go out before morn-
ing, when we can enjoy a dozen over there, and have a sure
thing of it. You can stand any amount of cold ; it don't faze
you, but I can't sleep so sound. If I didn't creep out in the
46
FIRE-WORKS.
night and nm through the brush, packing limbs to throw on
the fire, you would be a frozen icicle one of these mornings
and wouldn't know it. Look here, I lost my watch chain
last night, and almost scratched my sleepy eyes out."
" Well, agreed ; let's pack our saddles over there and build
A NIGHT IN THE WOODS.
fires on every side of us, for I can venture to say that one of
my sides alternately cooks and freezes every night."
" Here, here, Wildair, is the very place. See, the logs lie
round in a circle ! "
After starting fires far and near to moderate the whole at-
mosphere, we sat down to watch the blazes flash, wane, shoot
into the air, and play their various pranks, until, tired and
sleepy, we i>laced three torches in the encircling logs, then
lay down in the centre to rest. We had just fallen deep into
the arms of Sleep when we began to dream of infernal re-
gions, of the torment of their flames— I'd never had such
dreams before —
THE SOUTH PARK. 47
" O ! rouster, "Wildair, blazes ! good heavens ! get out of
here — "
" Ho ! Oh— oh— what's this ? "
" Fire ! fire ! come — "
"O! where, how, hack, Caleb!—"
"When we found ourselves we M'ere standing off about fif-
teen rods, scratching our heads — a little scorched they were.
" Do you knoM^ what I was thinking about, Wildair ? "
" Certainly ; about that fire."
" No, not that — how near we came needing no more roast
venison."
" Well, I'd been worse than an icicle in a moment, had
you iu)t awakened me."
" The Indians, I imagine, must have barked those logs for
pommel soup."
" Why, what of that ? "
" A good deal ; it causes all the pitch to settle in the peeled
portion, and the people in Southern Colorado split this into
candles ! "
" The end of 3'on elevated log — a snorting candle that ! "
It was not long before the wind arose, sweeping the flames
from tree to tree up into the denser and denser dead pine
trees, until it seemed like a mountain of burning fire sending
its blaze toward heaven. It didn't go out that night, neither
did we sleep much.
Somewhere far out among those endless mountains, one day
before us opened South Park, a mighty basin deeply sunk in
the snow-capped mountains that girt it about like eternal bar-
riers of ice piercing the clouds. Far, far beneath us lay that
gem of spring, carpeted by grass. liaising our glasses to our
eyes they revealed thousands of cattle grazing down in that
level lawn, drove beyond drove, until they appeared like
myriads of ants — then vanished from view beyond the centre.
We now started for the summit of Gray's Peak, in sight,
a short distance to the north ; but there was a snowy range
to be crossed, over which mining prospectors were beginning
to pass on snow shoes. So we had either to pack our ponies
48 THE MINERS.
over the range, or traverse a round-about way. We did the
latter. Along a gorge winding in every conceivable direc-
tion, we followed until I thought we were neai-ly back to
Colorado City — at least yve came to where we could see the
stream bursting out upon the plains. Then we started up
another gorge between other folds of the mountains, toward
the peak we were bound to climb.
The squads of miners whom we passed driving their pack
mules into the mountains looked curiously at us, but on we
wound our way up South Clear Creek, along one of the
grandest gorges that ever cut its course through granite.
The early miners who went out with pick, shovel, and
sandpan, have here left great signs of their work. Tlie stream
had ground portions of the mountains into gravel, through
which the miners have dug for the gold that had been crushed
out of the stone and settled on the bed rock. Mile after
mile the smooth round stones and gravel had been washed
over and piled up in great fields and innumerable mounds.
But as if this stream were too slow, impatient man had
directed his ingenuity and powers to crushing the precious
metals out of the mountains. On one hand, donkeys were
packing ore down the steep side of the mountain along a
winding path to a neighboring crushing mill ; on the other
hand, a rail-road cart came rolling out of the granite wall,
bearing to a stamping mill its precious load. We rode into
one of these tunnels, with the dripping rock above our heads
and the chilly air around us, until we came to a machine on
wheels, drilling the sparkling granite with augers whirling at
lightning speed preparatory to blasting. They were still
driving the tunnel into the mountain, expecting by and by
to strike a far richer vein. The machine was run bv com-
pressed air, -which was conveyed hither through pipes from
the air pump at the entrance. This pump received its power
from the dashinoj stream.
CHAPTEH IT.
ASCENT OF GEAY'S PEAK— IN A HOEN.
f^ EAY'S Peak had been in our minds ever since vre left
vX South Park. Seemingly we had come around creation
to set here, and now the miners told us that we could not as-
cend, that tlie snow yet covered all the mountains. They had
a hard time beating this into our understanding, for it looked
like summer at Georgetown. But that was not the point — •
we were bound to set our feet on the summit of Gray's Peak,
or fail trying : so they told us that just before day -break
would be the best time to ascend, as the crust would then bear
us up without snow-shoes ; besides, we could then obtain a
grand view of sunrise upon the mountains. No doubt they
thoufrht this would be a stunner. But not so ; we were de-
lighted with the idea. How romantic; nothing could be
wilder !
So, as evening was throwing her dark mantle over those
moimtains, we started up the principal gorge, with the dash-
ing stream far beneath us like a streak of silver light seen by
glimpses through openings in spruce and pine. The dark
rocks reached up half a mile or a mile on either side of the
chasm, over which a pitchy cloud soon moved, but only to
brinof out the stars which shone from the entrance to shafts,
tunnels, or doors of miners' cabins, Avhose houses seemed in
the sky up the sides of those eternal rocks. We thought
that now their damp, dreary day's work was done, and that
they were preparing their little meals, soon to lie down and
dream of finding gold as abundant as stones, and then of has-
4 49
50 NIGHT ON THE MOUNTAINS.
tening home to far distant friends awaiting their coming.
Occasionally we passed a large quartz mill with lights in
the windows. Thump, thump went the fall of the iron-
heeled stampers, night and day. "We heard the heavy jarring
sound until lost in the roar of the stream. The sound was
as though the gods were still forging those mountains.
About midnight we were tired. The snow began to lay
around in great patches ; but we found a dry place among
some willows, and built a lire. The cold wind came whistlinor
through like mournful music, as we crouched low, and curled
around the fire, while the ponies forced their way into the
brush, and stood with their heads over us. "When we fell
asleep the fire managed to die out, as we had nothing larger
than willows to feed it. In a couple of hours, the sky being
clear, we hastily ate a bite with our chattering teeth, and long
before the stars drawing the rosy-M'heeled chariot of morning
appeared, we were on our way exultant with the thought of
standing on that lofty outlook of heaven and beholding from
its summit the Flaming Hider with reins of fire burst through
the mantle of night, casting a myriad of golden wreaths upon
a world of marble brows — first upon the one touched by our
feet, then upon one far remote, then upon another, and
another, until descending lace of transparency had fallen
over each pure M'hite breast. Then, sitting down on this pil-
lar of the sky, we would watch the playing lights and shad-
ows of the peaks across the mighty chasms between.
Soon the forest became so dense that it was almost impossi-
ble to ride farther. But I had scarcely dismounted, when
before me was an animal apparently as large as a tiger.
I suppose my lively imagination exaggerated the size, for the
innocent creature turned and ran oft' through the starlight
before I had shown my courage by remounting. "Well, it is
something to see a large panther in the woods, and know how
it feels to be scared, after all.
Hitching our ponies, we started on foot, giving us a splen-
did opportunity of warming ourselves. In crossing the
stream we got a view of the peak before us — more, we got
ENTOCXTER WILD BEASTS.
51
onr boots full of water, but that only made us care nothing
for the snow.
Just before the sun arose we luid come out from under
the forest, and were commencing the ascension of the i)(i-dk,
which was Avithout trees.
" Look toward the summit, Caleb, what does that mean ? "
" Those are tracks, sure."
" Of what ? Kot men, for they told us at Georfjetown
none had yet ascended."
" From the way they have plowed down the side, I should
judge they must have been grizzlies."
Instinctively Ave halted ; but it was only a moment ; we
had endured too much to turn back now ; besides, Wildair
A MCTCAL SCARE.
banished fear by flourishing his " pepper box." It wouldn't
salt a prairie-dog — but he verily seemed to think it would
season a grizzly. To redeem its character seemed to be his
idea, while I lamented I had left my "bushwhacker" behind.
52 SUSPICIOUS TRACKS.
After more than an honr's climbing, the snow liad gradually
become so steep that a misstep, or losing of the balance,
would have sent ns rolling wildlj,with ever-increasing velocity,
toward the bottom. How carefully we beat the toes of our
boots into the almost impenetrable wall of snow. It was
now almost perpendicular — we dared not even look back.
A rod more would brinij ns over the difficulties. It was
passed, and we felt relieved. But look ; we gaze with aston-
ishment upon a mighty basin.
" Oh, Wildair, what a scene ; I never saw anything like it
before ! "
"It looks like the billows of the storm-tossed ocean."
" Or like the frozen crater of a volcano."
" Caleb, do you remember those great bear tracks ? Here
is where they end ! "
" I see where they started, too." (Using the glass.)
" From that perpendicular rock almost at the very summit."
"Wildair, I understand the mysterious bear tracks now."
"80 do I;" and both at once tried to explain, the one to
the other, how small pieces of stone had crumbled off of the
great rock when the side had 'been warmed by tlie sun, to go
rolling upon the softened snow, collecting with every roll,
augmenting at each bound, until finally every leap became
as the plunge of a ship, finally bursting, and heaving at the
bottom as breakers against the shore. "We had fun scramb-
ling over these billows, and fun ascending where the snow-
balls had plowed.
Then it entered our mind, what sport for a party of
boys and girls to snowball on the side of this mountain of a
warm afternoon, when the showering balls Avould fall to chase
each other like rolling moons. But if one of the parties
should stumble, somebodv's darliuir would soon be but a sweet
coriander seed in the centre of a tremendous rolling snow-ball.
Only the sun could suck her out.
By and by we arrived at the rocks from whence the snow-
balls started. As we passed up among them we came upon
some white pigeons which lost their wits and fluttered about
OUR HAPPINESS GOKE. 53
dumb-puzzled ; we also saw the tracks of Rocky Mountain
sheep.
From these heights we started large stones from their bal-
ance, which went crashing down, loosing a multitude of
others in their course, all racing over the yet frozen snow at
niarvelously increasing speed.
A few more hard scrambles, each trying to be the first to
enjov the scene, brought us to the summit which had so long
evaded our approach. The view which opened around us
is beyond the power of imagination to picture. We stood in
awe ; but in a few moments we noticed that far and near
were peaks higher than the one upon which we stood. Our
happiness was gone. We knew we had missed Gray's Peak,
which was considered the highest of any in these regions.
There were two that seemed to equally claim that distinction.
One was south of us across the principal gorge from which
we had ascended ; the other was just to tlie north across a
branch of the same gorge. The thought of climbing from
the bottom of the principal gorge again was too horrible to
indulge a moment ; so we decided that the peak on the north
was the hio-her — the highest of all.
Now, there were two ways of reaching this peak. The
direct waj', was straight across the branch gorge ; the
long way was by the ridge leading around the head of this
gorge several miles away, then back along the ridge on the
opposite side. "VVe would have taken the ridge, had it not
been capped by a number of minor peaks, over whose sum-
mits we would have to pass before arriving at the desired
point. We decided to cross the gorge.
The snow on the north side was like feathers, having never
l)een thawed and frozen. So down the steep side we bounded,
leaving deep peg holes in the snow, fifteen feet apart. De-
scending that mountain was a sport next to fiying. Most of
the time we were in the air, and when our feet touched the
snow it was as though the soft wing of a bird was beneath
them, lifting us into the air. When near the bottom we
came upon the true tracks of a bear, and from their size we
54: ON THE SUMMIT.
judged they had been made by a grizzly. Pines, with the
arms bent down by the snows of long and dreary winters,
skirted either side of the gorge.
Now began the long and tedious ascent. When somewhat
above the top of the first peak we had ascended, we imagined
that a few more struggles would bring us to the desired sum-
mit ; but unexpectedly there opened befoi'e us another de-
scenty though less than the one we had just crossed. Wildair
still preferred to take the direct way, while I chose to follow
around the head of this gorge. As each was decided in his
own opinion, we separated. He soon became like a speck
below me, while I could just make him out, waving his hat
as a sign of triumph. He seemed to have completed half his
journey, while I had hardly made any progress — indeed, was
slowly climbing farther away.
Finally I reached the ridge at the head of the new gorge.
I was now on the summit of the Continental Divide. It was
so steep before me that a stumble would have sent me dash-
ing hundreds of feet below. I took up a handful of snow,
and placed it a yard away from where I had picked it up,
and that determined its course into the Pacific instead of
down the Mississippi into the Atlantic. So a single decision
determined our course toward the Pacific, and around the
world. I walked on along this sharp "Back-Bone" of the
continent, looking down into Middle Park — indeed, careful
lest I should tumble into it. I could have followed this ridge
round all the gorges to the other high "peak" that had
claimed our attention. Indeed, I believe I could have fol-
lowed it far away to South Park — or, in the opposite direc-
tion to North Park. I would like to see a railroad built along
this "Back-Bone of the AYorld." Would it not be a grand
ride through this Switzerland of America past the Parks fifty
and one hundred miles long? All the railroads in the world
could not, in the least, compare with it for an excursion route.
I now looked down at Wildair, who seemed to be making
poor speed, having to rest every few minutes. Finally we
both called up all our energies as we neared the meeting
THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. 55
point. I fell first, and Wildair tumbled across me, almost
burvinfi: me in the snow.
" I b-e-at you," was the pertinent suggestion of Wildair
as soon as he could gain his breath.
" You di-did — " ; the n't was cut off by a mouthful of snow.
" We'll consider that when we are re-sted."
After nine hours of the most incessant toil, we finally
reached the summit. Neither pen nor pencil can reproduce
the scene which confronted us on every side. One could
onlv feel in silence, rather than exclaim — What an elevation,
what yawning chasms, what vastness around ! One snow-
white range or peak beyond another until the eye was led
awa\' one hundred and fifty miles, through an atmosphere so
pure that even at night a mountain at that distance can be
(listinctly seen.
Middle Park, comprising an area much greater than that of
Rhode Island, lay beneath our feet and seemed like a deep-
sunk gem of green with snowy fingers grasping it from cir-
cumference to center. Beyond were the unexplored moun-
tains. South Park, across two ranges, with its green-tinted
basin rimmed with evergreen, nestled in the everlasting hills,
and seemed to perform no part except to add beauty to the
snow-clad mountains around.
Then we cast our eyes toward the plains, but their endless
carpet of green opening far beyond Denver, seemed to be
but the foot-stool to these spotless sanctuaries of the skies.
The high upland prairies of North Park led the eye to the
border of the territory, but beyond, the peaks of the Conti-
nental Divide reached into the unseen.
The Continental Divide mustered its hosts from the hori-
zon in the northwest to the horizon in the south, ]")resenting
a line of about three hundred miles of peaks, sc]>arated by
depressions like hanging festoons. About one-half of the
distance was taken up in a grand sweep around three sides of
Middle Park, branch ranj^es shootinj? off from the anijles to
complete the enclosure of the Parks — each branch range per-
haps forming a divide between two great rivers on the same
56 . DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
side of the Continental Divide. It is as difficult foT this or
any range to run a long distance in one direction without
branching, changing its base of operation, or breaking sud-
denly up, as it is for a school-boy to cover his ball without
having branch seams.
These branching streams or veins among the mountains
are constantly wearing them away, and bearing portions of
them, age after age, into the ocean, or over the valleys.
When the sun was well along in the western sky w^e went
jumping down the mountain side, but were not long in find-
ing that our springs were considerably worn. In truth we
felt like old wagons, and concluded to try turning ourselves
into sleighs ; so, sitting down upon the soft snow, we slipped
and ploughed our way downward, regardless of our panta-
loons, until, finding ourselves going too fast, we used our
heels and hands as brakes. The sport was fine, and we struck
up a race, letting our sleds out at a pretty rapid rate. I was
heavier than Wildair ; and was gaining, I thought, a slight
advantage of him in the ride, when suddenly we approached
a point in the side of the mountain, where the grade became
rapidly steeper. We slapped on the brakes with a vim, but
instead of slackening the speed the snow clogged in front of
our hands and feet, the quantity increasing as we shot down-
ward. To my sorrow, my sleigh was now driven decidedly
faster than that of Wildair, and was becoming so large that
I feared it would begin to roll. When I reached the bottom
I was driven clear through it. Looking up from the tum-
bling snow which almost buried me, I saw Wildair sitting
upon his snowball, which was twenty feet high. He after-
wards said, that from the way I looked up I must have
thought an avalanche was coming upon me. When composed
I halloed :
"IIo! Wildair, I beat you badly that time."
"Yes, I confess you did; you look like a gorilla frozen
fast in an iceberg ! "
" Come, come, now — just be neighborly for once and step
down and help me out of this."
AT THE FOOT.
57
" Stars ! j'ou have the advantage of me now ; how the
bhazes do jou imagine I am to get down there ? "
" You'll be down before you're aware of it, I am thinking."
Finally he did jump from his ball to mine and dug me
out.
On looking around we found that we had descended the
peak just below where the gorge forked. Our ponies had
broken loose and were browsing near where we left them at
daybreak.
AYe felt like
b rowsing^
too, for we
had eaten
nothing since
long before
that time, as
we ex])ected
to return to
Georgetown ,
for dinner.
Our boots
were like wet
rags, vet our
other clotli-
ins^ had no
reason to be
ashamed of
them. It was nearly dark when we reached Georgetown.
Soon afterwards we crossed a low mountain ranjje to the
head waters of North Clear Creek. Here we found a ditch
Avinding along near the summit of the ridge, conducting wa-
ter to some of the dry mountain gorges to be used in washing
out the shining metals. Around us, and for many miles in
front, the mountain sides were thickly covered with stumps
of trees which had been cut for running quartz mills and
propping the walls of the mines. The mountain sides had,
during jiast ages, crumbled down into slopes, but almost every
DESCENDING. THE MOUNTAIN.
58 CITIES IN THE WILDERNESS.
square rod had a freshly dug pit. Out of part of these the
miners were taking a soft ore containing small particles of
free gold that were easily separated.
Here and near by we found three cities — l^evada, Central,
and Black Ilawk — as closely united as the three Fates of old.
We imagined ourselves Indians coming out of the wilds of
the West, now for the first time looking upon a city, so strange
and unexpected did these high walls and rich and stylish
streets appear. I am not sure but the Indian on his pony
would have felt more at home than we did on ours, looking
as we did. Mincing ladies, in silks and ruffles, walked the
streets, or looked out of windows hung with lace.
Concluding to sell our ponies, we rode around to the differ-
ent livery stables. It was fun to see the curiosity of the col-
lecting crowds at these places. No one offered to buy our
ponies excepting a drunken man, and his comrades wouldn't
let him pay us the money.
We knew that ponies were selling very low at Denver at
that time ; so I, as well as Caleb, thought we had better try to
sell before we got there. When a mile or two out of Central
City, upon the old road to Denver, we stopped at an old
stage station to try our luck. A couple of gentlemen seemed
inclined to purchase. Caleb asked fifty dollars for Indian,
while I thought Slam was larger and finer looking; some-
how, just then, too, it crept into my head that he was getting
better of his stiffness ; so I put him at sixty dollars.
After looking at Slam a few moments, they paid their en-
tire attention to Caleb's Indian. All I said seemed, to my
indignation, to fall unnoticed upon their ears. One of them
offered Caleb a shot gun and a few dollars in cash for Indian.
Of course Caleb didn't want the shot gun. The other offered
him forty-five dollars. That was not Caleb's price, and so
we started on.
When a few yards away " Shot Gun " called to us to return.
We rode back. lie brought out his wife's gold watch, offer-
ing that as an even trade for Indian. In a moment his wife
came out on the portico and said that she " did not want to
SLAM AND HIS SLANDERERS 59
part with the watch," that she " wouldn't have such a pony,"
and that she " would never go to church with her husband if
he got such a thing." •
Still her husband wanted to trade. Caleb did not want the
watch, and thought she needed to go to church.
As we were about to depart, his " angel of sweetness " said
that she would let the watch go. The husband remarked, as
he had before, that " it was not running just at that time, it
needed cleaning, but that it was a No. 1 time-keeper." A
little spoiled girl holding her father's hand, just then re-
marked :
" The watch won't run."
"It is not running just now."
" It never would run."
Both father and mother looked sheepish, grinned at each
other, and we rode off.
In half an hour we stopped beside a spring to let our po-
nies graze awhile. Looking down the road, we saw a couple
of horsemen with guns on their shoulders. They were riding
toward us.
" Caleb ! yonder come those very men."
" Wonder what that means."
In a moment they spoke to us and said that they had fol-
lowed a pathway down into the woods, hunting squirrels, and
were returning by this road. They started on. Shortly,
back trotted the one who had made the cash offer, gave Caleb
his price, and led away his Indian. They had slighted Slam
almost from the very first. I was not feeling very well over
that, and as Indian was led awav I remarked to the man :
" You will be hunting squirrels towards Denver. "When
you meet us I suppose you will buy my pony."
His answer was, " Your pony isn't worth the little end of
nothing whittled down to a point."
Many a time I have tried to think of my reply, but never
could, and Caleb never could.
From this place to Golden City, Caleb and I took turns
riding and walking. "We met several parties with teams, and
asked them:
60 ARRIVAL AT GOLDEN CITY.
" Are you wanting Slam ? O ! excuse me I mean a pony."
Slam was in every respect gentle, except when any one
wanted to look at his teeth. I was very glad of that, but I
can solemnly swear I never taught him that trick. Only one
man was ever able to look into his mouth, and he remarked,
after his scrutiny was over —
" I can't tell within sixteen years of his age."
From time to time, as the pony jerked away I thought I
was all right, but at an unexpected moment I would hear that
ominous demand, " Let's see him move." That was sufficient
— they never bought.
As we were getting on toward Golden City, we met some
miners on their way to the mountains. Our clothes were, to
say the least, slightly dilapidated. We had not been bush-
w^hackiug, but the bushes had been whacking us. Eight
here you will remember that at the time of the gold excite-
ment at Pike's Peak, many had written upon their wagons as
they crossed the plains, " Pike's Peak or Bust." In a short
time they were to be seen returning with this inscription in-
stead, " Busted by Thunder." So these parties we were
meeting seemed to think we should bear the latter inscription,
and one man had the impudence to pretend to see it and to
read it aloud for the benefit of his friends. I returned the
compliment by making sundry gestures indicative of derision,
and by informing him that the sooner he got his companions
to hoop him the better.
We arrived at Golden City toward sundown, tied Slam in
front of a hotel and made inquiries in regard to selling. I
had now come down to fifty-five dollars, the price I gave for
him. I did not like to lose on him, even were he of no ac-
count. After some inquiry, a boy told me he was wanting a
pony on which to herd cattle, and thought his father would
buy. He pointed me across to his father's store. I rode
over that May shortly, and the father and son came out. In
a few minutes a crowd irathered around. Two or three at-
tempts were made to look into Slam's mouth. Being true to
the teachings of a former master he was ashamed of his age,
SLAM GETS EXCITED. 61
even jerking loose as they twisted his upper lip to hold him.
He showed the white of hig eyes, pricked up his ears, ap-
peared to be full of life and tire — the most deceiving pony in
all Colorado, no doubt.
The father talked of buying. lie had not seen him move,
our knew his age, and I thought I was all right. In a mo-
ment he wanted his boy to get on and try him. My hopes
fell at once; his movement had blasted the prospect of sale
several times before. As the boy started around behind to
get on from the other side, the pony kicked, striking him on
the leg, and sending him whirling to the ground. The fright-
ened father picked up the crying boy. I cannot say I Manted
to see the boy hurt ; still, it was a great relief. However, I
was astonished at Slam, in fact, didn't know he could get his
heels that high. In a moment the boy was better. The
father remarked :
" That's the kind of pony you are trying to sell, is it ? "
"You mistake your man, sir — I never knew him to make
any signs of such a thing before."
Still, the father was afraid of Slam.
Said I, " Should there be any wild fire in him, which I do
not admit, the herding of cattle will soon extinguish it."
Still, I was not believed, and such remarks as these were
going the round : " Bet there's lire in that pony ! " " Look
at the snap of his eye ! "
From his looks, no doubt, at one time these remarks would
have been appropriate, but from abuse and old age those days
had passed many years since.
By this time the crowd had grown to be immense. Some
said " Let's see him move," and desired that I should ride
him up and dovm the street. I rather demurred, but that
wouldn't do ; so I mounted him. Ko doubt they expected
to see me whirled to the ground before I should be seated in
the saddle. I administered two or three spurs; he started
off-on-a-slow-walk. From some cause, he was worse than
usual. Tavo or three cried out : " Move him up ! " I knew
this was next to impossible without making an ass of myself,
62 THE TOWN "BUSTED."
but gave Slam several terrible prods from the side opposite
the crowd, concealing my efforts as much as possible. He
bent his body from the spur, and moved off in a slow, wrig-
gling, dragging, circling trot. The crowd burst into laughter,
and cheers rent the air. Men waved their hats and tumbled
over each other ! That was too much. I turned partly upon
my saddle, and attempted to speak. There was a lull after a
storm.
" Gentlemen, if I knew who it was that poisoned my pony,
I would "—
The storm of laughter opened anew ! The town " busted : "
windows and doors opened — crowds came flocking from all
directions. As I passed down the street — for I didn't re-
turn — the boys followed me as though I were a circus me-
naofcrie. The thoucrht struck me that I M'ould iret out of that
as soon as possible ! How I spurred ! Every time I let up,
the pony let np — in fact, would have stopped short had 1 not
continued spurring. I was the target for laughter from every
window, and from everv crowd that collected as I ioirired
along. Shortly I espied Caleb in the crowd, laughing like
the rest, and knew that he had seen it all. I could not blame
him, but had he been in my grasp just then 1 would have
wrung his neck.
At the hotel I alighted. Caleb stepped up to me. Said I :
" When I get this pony down to the barn, I am going to
pull out my revolver, put it to his ear, deliberately pull the
trigger, and see if he will go to sleep over that."
"We took him down to the barn.
"Now, Caleb, I can't forgive this pony — it is utterly im-
possible; but as you are of a religious turn of mind, and as
I have some money at stake, I will desist if you will pro-
nounce a long, solemn blessing over him and his descend-
ants forever."
Not saying whether Caleb pronounced the blessing or not.
I soon got Slam some corn meal to eat, not for an}- love 1
bore toward him, but because I wanted him to pick up during
the night, for he was to be sold or given away in the morn-
MY RIDE TOWARDS DENVER. 63
ingr. As rejjards the meal, I did not feed liim Avith that be-
cause he couldn't eat corn — oh, no !
Next morning Caleb took the cars for Denver, twelve or
fifteen miles away, while I rode my " fine stock." 1 didn't
try to sell him any more in Golden City ; he had a reputa-
tion all over town.
On my way to Denver I met several parties, but they
wouldn't bu\' ; they had seen his gait as I rode along. 1 was
now pretty well toward Denver. " Yonder, probably, is my
last chance," I said to myself as I saw a couple of mule teams
hauling flour into the mountains, a man driving the first team,
and his boy the second one. I knew it wouldn't do to let
them see the movement of Slam, so something began to be
the matter with the girth, and I stopped to fix it. I did not
want to deceive any one, but when anything is the matter
with the girth, it must be fixed ! As the team passed by me
I was mounting.
"Are you wanting to buy a pony ? "
" How much do you ask for him ? "
<' Fifty-five dollars."
The father got out to look at him.
" His back is sore, isn't it ? "
I told him I was merely fixing the girth, at the same time
showing him that the back was all right ; also said that I had
been riding him hard for the last three weeks through the
mountains, and that he needed rest. Wasn't that the truth ?
Surely, if Slam didn't need rest, no pony ever did !
"I will give you fifty-two dollars for him ; that is all the
money I have to spare, with me."
I hesitated a moment as thouirh not too anxious, and only a
moment. He might call upon me to make him move, and
of course that would be the end of the thinir. ]S^o^v I
asked him Avhat he would give me for the saddle. He said
that he had one already. So I pulled it off, and by one stir-
rup threw it across my shoulder. The man got out a rope
by which to lead the pony at the hind end of the wagon.
I scarcely knew what to say to that, for I knew that Slam was
64
SOLD AT LAST.
the meanest thing on earth to lead ; I had pulled at him some-
times, and the harder I pulled the harder he held back. The
only possible way to get him along was to walk by his side
and punch him up, or get behind and twist his tail. How-
ever, I merely told the man that he didn't lead very well, as
SLAM AND HIS BUYKR.
I knew he wouldn't be any the better pleased with his riding
should he attempt getting him along in that way ; and more,
I never like to destroy any one's felicity. I bade him good
morning, and started off toward Denver on a pretty round
pace, the saddle stirrup and skirts dangling and flapping in
the air.
When a few hundred yards away, I glanced round, and
they were just ready to start. Slam being tied behind. They
started. Slam pulled back. They stopped a moment and
started on. Slam braced his feet and slid along, then began
rearing and throwing himself back with the greatest violence.
Now I heard something crack. Out came the tail-gate, two
FINAL CATASTROPHE. 65
or three sacks of flour tumbling on to the ground. The old
man scrambled to the back end of the wagon, glanced at the
sacks, then at me, shaking his fist violently.
" Come back, you rascal ! "
I trudged on faster than ever. Slam sauntered out to one
eide. In a moment the old man was out to catch him. Gen-
erally he was easily caught, but now he started off on a stiff,
unearthly trot. The old man halted, stood, and stared, then
turned toward me, cracking his fists. I trudged on, and
Boon disappeared over a hill, and never learned whether the
old man and his boy left Slam upon the prairie, or shot him
for l)reaking their wagon.
Soon I was at Denver with a saddle on my shoulder, look-
ing a little rough from having been tearing through the
mountains for the last three weeks. At home, as a choice, it
•would have been preferable riding a goat up town to walking
the streets as I looked. But what did I care ? I was doing
no wrong, and the faces of the people were strange to me,
and I never expected to see them again. My saddle disposed
of, I walked into a store, bought a new suit from head to
foot, and stepped over to the hotel, where I found Caleb.
Of course 1 told him I had sold Slam and how I sold him.
lie was delighted that I had disposed of him, yet somewhat
sorr}' for the unhappy man who had been his purchaser.
I had become so used to spurring when riding Slam, that it
■was some time before I got over the habit. Judging from
the way the sheets of my bed were torn one morning, one
would think I had been having a terrible encounter with a
night-mare — but it was only a ride through dreamland on
that " boss." Poor fellow, I fear he never lived to see the
epizootic !
CHAPTER Y.
OYER THE MOUNTAINS BY EAIL.
FAR out from the habitation of man, amid the wild, wild
mountains, we passed a wanderer. He had no home, no
friends, nor wished for any ; yet he was not lonely, he knew
every mountain, every rock, far and near. His camping
ground extended from Washington Territory to Texas. He
was driving a couple of Mexican donkeys followed by a play-
ful colt that sported and kicked its heels around its loaded
Ma and Pa, and at night looked in at the tent door beside
the dog.
Once a year he went to Denver, or " Frisco," or Galves-
ton, or Portland, to sell his furs and buy a sack of flour, then
wandered leisurely back from the haunts of men, contented
and happy, with no one's whims or fancies to please, and no
one's tongue or frowns to fear. But still he was sociable, and
manifested an extreme delight in pouring into our eager ears
the many strange stories and wild adventures of his life, as
we sat one evening around his camp fire, which happened to
be in sight of our own.
Out from those retreats -vve came and took our seats in a
palace car, shooting along without a quiver, the snowy peaks
of Colorado on one side, and the endless level green on the
other. As the elegantly attired ladies and gentlemen glided
from window to window, in ecstacy over the new world and
the distant mountains, I thought of the thousand scenes hid
amid those lonely retreats of which they never dreamed.
"With astonishment they learned the immense distance to
66
WESTWARD BY RAIL.
67
those marble looking peaks seen throngli snowy gaps that
opened to give us glimpses beyond. We pointed to our sun-
burned hands and faces as witnesses that we had wandered
amid them and stood upon their lofty summits, Mhere the
sun shines without a screen and stars look down in the day-
time.
At Cheyenne we were joined by other passengers. As we
passed along they talked about the mountains as though we
were passing among them, when in fact we were not at any
time nearer than a day's ride in the saddle to anything the
least worthy of that name.
The soil of these regions is of indefinite depth, having been
formed by the crumbling away of limestone and rocks, upon
ECSTATIC PASSENGERS.
which vejjetation has never vet fairlv taken a start, but when
watered and planted it has in places produced abimdantly.
That the increase of vegetation by means of irrigation aug-
ments the fall of rain in that quarter, has become a M'ell known
fact, which adds encouragement to the belief that those re-
gions as M'ell as the Plains proper — whose soil by the way is
strong — will at some future day yield an abundant increase
at the hand of the husbandman.
Although this section is about seven thousand feet above
68
MOUNTAIN FLOWERS.
the level of the sea, yet it is only a thousand feet above Den-
ver and the valleys around, and is hardly as high as the parks
and valleys among the mountains where it is known that an
abundant yield, at least of certain kinds of produce, is the re-
ward of cultivation. Moreover it is likely that products will
be found which are adapted to this high altitude, as moun-
MOUNTAIN FLORA.
tain flowers and berries bloom almost among snow banks.
We have often stood on snow and gathered them.
An hour and a half from Cheyenne brought us to Sherman,
the highest point in the whole line of tlie Continental Rail-
road, though little more than eight thousand feet above the
level of the sea. Thence by an easy grade we descended to
Laramie Plains, a thousand feet below and green with sprout-
ing grass. This used to be an agreeable resting place for
emigrant trains of old, affording both game and fine pasture.
Just beyond these Plains we crossed the North Platte, where
a few companies of soldiers were drilling.
GREEN RIVER.
69
1 _
THE SERPENT OF THE MOUNTAINS.
Then we rolled on, across tlie Continental Divide so low
as to be scarcely noticeable. Here we climbed on tlie top of
one of the cars to look around, and could see distinctly that
the track wound like a
jf'^ -^^ Mi snake around every
hill and rock — for you
know the Government
ao;reed to c'ive the
Company so much per
mile, besides half the
land for twenty miles
on either side of the
track. At times we
saw snow sheds in the
distance, and hardly
knew whether we had passed throuf^h or were approaching
them.
As we crossed Green Hiver the last one third of the dis-
tance to Salt Lake began, and with it green streaks of fertile
valleys, which gradually deepened into canons among which
thrifty Mormons were cultivating small but beautiful farms.
Soon the walls of rock became too narrow for valleys and
rose boldly hundreds of feet high. Thrilled by the wildness,
we again climbed upon one of the cars, as the train thunder-
ed faster and faster down Echo and Weber Canyons, ])ast " Cas-
tle Rock," the residence of old King Time and his powerful
princes, Winds and Floods, past "Devil's Slide" where from
the long, deep print he has left in the sloping rock we should
judge him to be twenty or thirty feet in diameter, by the
"1,000 Mile Tree" from Omaha, as indicated upon a large
sign suspended from a limb, on down the narrowing, deepen-
ing canyon, increasing in speed as the fall of the stream in-
creased, shooting from side to side over the foaming abyss,
plunging through tunnels in the side of the protrviding wall,
the cars rattling, shaking, and bounding, until we clung to the
car from fear of being shaken off — and thus we were ushered
at frightful rapidity from the monotony and desolation above
TO THE CITY OF THE SAINTS.
through " Devil's Gate," full into the smiling gardens be-
low, embraced and watered on all sides by snow-capped moun-
tains Avhose forms were pictured on the bosom of the lake.
Switching oft' for the City of the Saints, we passed through
level orchards and gardens flourishing under the most luxu-
riant growth, forming a scene which from contrast with the
outer world seemed doubly lovely, into the rural City of Salt
Lake, down wliose broad and regular streets ran streams of
clearest water, giving life and freshness to the vast gardens,
and forests of fruit trees which almost embowered her lonely
dwellings.
As I looked upon these thousands of rural homes in the
bosom of plenty, I was inclined to bless Brigham as a bene-
factor of his race sent by a Avise Providence to raise up the
poor and the needy. Every visitor to Salt Lake has cursed
" Old Brigham," so it does me good to remember that he has
wrenched from the hand of the savage a large section of land,
and caused it to smile with plenty at the touch of industry.
Early on Sabbath morning we wended our way along shady
walks to the Old Tabernacle. We were shown one of the
front seats reserved for visitors, where we sat watching the
ignorant-looking masses as they entered. Soon, in stalked a
long-nosed, hollow-cheeked, shallow-brained looking man
with his family of homely-clad wives, daughters, and a few
boys, perhaps a dozen altogether. Through a side door lead-
ing directly to the altar, entered now and then one of the
Twelve Apostles, or a couple of the Seventy, witli a very re-
liofious air, who shook hands with some of the brethren.
"When they had sat with their hats on long enough to morti-
fy all pride and all etiquette, they uncovered their apostolic
heads.
Following the singing and prayer, the Apostle Canon, a
saint of the largest caliber, poured his volleys upon us poor
Gentiles. After enumerating the dangers through which
God had led them, and the blessings he had conferred upon
them, which were causes for the deepest gratitude, he stated
it Avas a great work to which they were called, requiring
SUNDAY IN THE TABERNACLE,
71
SALT LAKE APOSTLES.
heroic energy and a sacrificing spirit ; jet God had promised
tliem the peace needed, and they were now, to some extent
reaping it.
Eut why
the oppo-
sition they
had a 1 -
ways en-
conntered
on every
hand ? ft
w n 1 d
naturally
seem an
argument
a o; a i n s t
them. But people had formed wrong opinions of them. All
reformers, all good men had met with opposition : Christ
himself met with opposition. The reason was that he
who presented truth had to meet error, he who acted right
had to comhat with wrong. There were two conflicting
principles at work; it commenced with Cain and Abel, and
had extended down to the present. The reformers had a
glimpse of light, and they met with opposition, hut they had
just prepared the way for the new dispensation which was
then beffinnino; to he nshered in. The church had lost its
connection with God, its power of working miracles, and had
been disorffinized and divided : so God sent an Anc^el to
Joseph Smith to give him a commission to restore the former
modes of worship, to reorganize the church according to its
former pattern, and to prepare men for the receiving of the
gifts and powers they once possessed. These were bestowed
npon the condition that the^Mvould acknowledge them before
the world, and their faithfulness to this injunction was the
cause of their persecution.
The spiritual and temporal head of Mormonism arose to
close with a " few remarks," which consumed not nnich
• 72 THE MORMON BIBLE.
short of half an hour's time, and were directed toward the Gen-
tile portion of the audience in rather a boastful, scornful manner.
But he was the preacher, and we poor sinners had to bear all
he hurled at us. He pictured out what an awful desert thej
were driven into ; how barren the valley was when thev ar-
rived ; how the people came to him Avith their discourao^e-
ments, but how God had quickened the soil and made the
valley fruitful like the promised land, so that every stranger
praised the beauty of the city. He said their enemies thought
by persecuting them and driving them upon the desert tliey
would put a stop to their doctrines, but under the counsels
of heaven it had resulted only in proving the purity of their
doctrines. Xow, instead of their going to the Gentiles to
preach, the latter were coming to them.
During the afternoon about eight thousand people assem-
bled in the i^ew Tabernacle — scriptural in name, but a turtle
in shape. We admired the organ, the largest we have seen in
America save the one in Boston, but were surprised to learn
that the unpretending citizen sitting at my elbow was its
manufacturer. The discourse consisted of weak trash poured
out by one of the elders, and was followed by the admistra-
tion of the sacrament, or something like it, which was passed
round to all but the Gentiles.
I spent a long time reading the Mormon bible, and came
to the conclusion that none but the most ignorant could be
gulled by such nonsensical trash so clumsily thrown together.
It was originally intended for a. novel, giving in biblical style
a fictitious account of the settling of this country by the lost
Tribes of the Children of IsraeL
Leaving Mormonism to give way before the potent influ-
ence of this assimilating age, we rolled out across the great
Continental basin throuii'lirecrions where the alkali lavsotliick
upon the barren plain as at times to resemble a fall of snow ;
where streams lost themselves in stagnant waters around
M'hich were the fit abodes of lizards, reptiles, and low beast-
ly Indians ; past horrible lakes with horrible names, the
ground here and there steaming and puffing with a sulphur-
VISIT TO LAKE TAHOE. 73
Oils smell ; on and on tlirongh this sunken Sodom and Gomor-
rah, till one bright morning we were ushered out into that
verdant region Avhere the tallest pines of earth lifted their
heads to the sky, on the lofty Sierra Nevadas.
While waitinij at Truckee for the hack that was to take us
to Lake Tahoe nestled in the mountains, we sat and looked
upon four out of the five races, often all represented within
the space of a square rod. There was the European with his
noble bearing, the Negro with his assumed dignity, the
Indian with his crouching step and sly look, and the China-
man with his subdued, submissive appearance, toiling as
slowly, steadily, and unconcernedly as the ox beneath his
yoke. As we passed the Chinamen upon the broad lonely
desert, tending or working upon the railroad track, we had
often wondered what he thought of America, whether he was
not lonely so far away from home where his people by mil-
lions dwell, and earth is like a garden. As we thought of
the means of riding in their country where two men become
a ■walking locomotive to bear a third, we wondered what they
thought of our locomotive whose mouth glares like the light-
ning, the breath of whose nostrils is like the clouds of heaven,
and the approach of whose iron hoof across the desert or
over the mountain is like the rollino; thunder.
The coach was now ready, so we started for Lake Tahoe.
Up a deep wooded ravine past a village and many a miner's
cabin, ?ill now deserted, up among large, lofty pines, spruces,
and firs, where cones with bases a foot in diameter lay around
beneath the giant trees, up where trees were hidden by moss,
and the cushioned limbs fell upon the ground with a soft
bounce, and on up to the summit rolled our coach. Then
down, down, we bounded, trying ever but in vain to catch a
glimpse of the lake, until as we came out from beneath the
forest, the Gem of the mountains opened before us — fourteen
miles in leno-th and eig-ht in breadth.
A little boat coimecting with stage lines among the moim-
tains steamed over the lake ; but we preferred a skiff ride.
We hardly knew how to launch out as the water was so clear
74
THE GEM OF THE MOUNTAINS.
N^,
.'^■^
that it seemed as if each stroke of the oar would send us
against some lofty granite boulder, although the little steamer
had fearlessly rode above them. As the water deepened we
stopped paddling, leaving our skiff to float out upon this lower
stratum of air, as we imagined it. The rocks far beneath
us seemed crested with moss, with shells, with lime, while
many rose up toward
us, bare and grand,
presenting yawning
chasms into which the
sun cast peculiar lights
and shadows. Owina:
to the depth of water
all were tinged more
or less witli a bluish
green. As we touched
the waters with our
THE TRANSPARENT GEM. Qars eacli ripplc made
the rocks dance, while chasing rainbows seemed ready to
carry them away. AYe paddled out until the chasms, and then
the rocks, all hid themselves in the beautiful color of the lake,
^vhile an occasional spotted trout sported unconcerned, per-
haps seventy feet beloM' us. Then we looked around over
the lake ; up the walls of the basin covered with impenetra-
ble foliage ; above the green to the snow-capped peaks nearly
encircling this gem of the ocean and sky.
xVfter a bath in the hot spring which boiled and steamed
up through the cool water near the shore, we were ready for
a trout dinner at the hotel.
Having returned to Truckee Ave started up the ap])arcntly
impassable mountains, two engines tugging andpufiing ahead.
Up, up, a deep gorge, we passed to and around its head — then
back along the opposite side, leaving the stream and track by
its side farther and fartlier beneath us, until finally we Avere
riding around a point of the mountain hundreds of feet above
Truckee.
Before arriving at the summit of the mighty Sierra Nevada,
J
I
THE SIERRAS.
T5
we saw for below us in the forest shades the silvery waters
of Doiiner Lake, where an emigrant party to California, in
early times, was overtaken by the deep snows of winter and
reduced t6 such straits that a part of them survived upon the
flesh of those who died. We were reminded of the deptli of
sno^v "which falls here, by a single snow shed twenty miles
in length which covered the track along this part of the route.
At the summit an ol)servation car was attached wliichgave
an excellent a'Iov,-. Down we almost flew through a fresh
cool air that quickened every nerve, whirling around lofty
mountains whose sides stood out of dizzy chasms below,
shooting along the sides of the precipices one or two thou-
sand feet high, past mountains almost washed away or cut
in two by hydraulic mining, always charmed by extended
views of mountains with glimpses of the far off California
valleys, until we had descended seven thousand feet in one
hundred miles, from deep iields of snow into the scorching
prairie of Sacramento Valley, where wilting vineyards were
watered by hundreds of fluttering wind mills.
CHAPTER YI.
A FLIETATION AMONG THE BIG TEEES.
HE AETS were all aglow in anticipation of beholding one of
the grandest scenes in nature. At 5 A. M. all were stowed
away — three on a seat inside the coach, with a young gentle-
man and two misses on the roof. Crack went the drivers
whip, the horses pranced, and we were off.
Soon we learned from conversation, that one of the gen-
tlemen within, a line looking man, was a judge living in
Mariposa, some sixty -five miles on our way, and tliat the
talkative lady, sitting between the judge and Caleb, had trav-
eled a great deal ; that the young gentleman and one of tlie
yonng ladies above, were her son and daughter ; the other
voung lady the intended bride of her son ; and that they all
were from Fifth Avenue, New York, visiting the wonders
of tlie West.
Soon we came to a ferry; the gentlemen climbed out, it
being sandy on the banks of the San Joaquin, and conse-
quently Iieavy pulling. I took advantage of the opportunity
to cast a sheep' s-eye at the ladies above. As we were i-etui-n-
ing to the coach on the opposite bank, I caught the eye of
the daughter, and I said to myself, I'll have a flirtation with
that belle jet, see if I don't.
We were now passing over the broad level valley of San
Joaquin, very productive generally, but this season every-
thing was withered and parched from the drought. The
judge pointed to broad fields of wheat that would not be
touched by the reaper, and to the horses, cattle, and sheep by
76
A TLEASIXG ARR.VXGEMENT. 77
the thousands, which were being driven to the foot-hills, and
into the mountains, there to browse the grass. Two or three
times during the forenoon we stopped to change horses. I
never failed to climb out to stretch my limbs, ever ready to
catch a glimpse of the young belle above. But fate seemed
to be against me, there M'as no becoming acquainted while
she remained where she was.
At length noon came, and we stopped for dinner. In the
bar-room I began a conversation with the young lady's broth-
er, and made myself as agi'eeable as possible ; but the young
ladies did not aj)pear in the dining-room.
When the stage was ready to start again, the three young
people concluded to ride inside, as several passengers had
stopped on the way, and took possession of the back seat.
Tor a time they talked only to each other, but by and by the
conversation became more general. I was far more lively
than in the forenoon, and by degrees I directed my remarks
to the daughter. Everything she said seemed to be appre-
ciated by me, and when others were talking I did a good
deal of squinting around the judge's shoulders toward the
object of my attention. The judge had much to say of Cal-
ifornia; the old lady told of her travels; and when Caleb
and I informed them that we were on a tour around the
world, all seemed anxious to hear our plans.
We were now at Mariposa, the home of the judge, where
everything was green and beautiful, and the crops, watered
by mountain streams, were growing luxuriantly. Here we
took supper, and tarried an hour for rest. The judge, who
had stopped at his home upon our entering the town, came
around just before our starting, to bid us good-bye. Most of
our party were reluctant to part with liim, although the
acquaintance had been brief. But I remembered his shoulder
had been in my way, when I conversed with the young lady
and didn't regret leaving him behind.
Our carriage was now an open one, with three seats to be
occupied by sLx persons, two on a seat, and as luck would
have it the charming young lady and myself were put on the
same one. What could be nicer ?
7S WILD AIR FALLS IX LOVE.
Away we went over foot-liills, winding around and up the
sides of the mountains, and I never was jollier. The young
lady and I became quite intimate, and I Avished we vreve to
drive all night, instead of the twelve miles which brought us to
our stopping-place for the night.
Is^ever had I seen a lady who had so completely taken my
fancy, and I felt that I would be happy were this stnge ride
^vith her to result in something more than a mere flirtation.
For her sake I passed a restless night.
Next day we again occupied a seat together, and soon we
were winding up the sides of the Sierras. It was splendid ;
and I felt that she who sat b}^ my side M^as an angel of light.
I enjoyed her smiles and words a hundred times more than I
did the yarns and jokes in which the conductor began to in-
dulge. As we were admiring some large trees, how uninter-
esting to have him remark : —
" They are nothing but hoop poles compared with the Big
Trees. Six months since, a boy M'as started round one of
these, and has not been heard of since."
And when Caleb questioned him in regard to their height,
liow very uninteresting to have him reply : —
" It's well known that one of them is so tall that it requires
two men and one boy standing one on the head of the other,
to see its top."
And when he came to that old, old story of Greeley's ride
down these mountains, it seemed to cap the climax of all
dulliiess.
We had wound round eight miles up a steep grade, almost
to the summit of the mountains, and now began the descent
of four miles to the valley between the Big Trees and Yo
Semite.
Crack, goes the driver's whip, accompanied with a " Git,
climb out of this," and the horses are on their heels. Down
we plunge, around gorge, and point, and cliff, at break-neck
speed, the road being barely wide enough in places for the
horses. The stumble of either, the hubbing of a rock around
a point, seemingly must dash us to pieces.
INCIDENT OF TIIE RIDE.
79
Soon we came to where the road was more level, and the
horses moved slower. A thrill of happiness shot through
me as I discovered tliat my arm was around my companion's
waist, holding her in. However, it was reluctantly with-
drawn before she was compelled to suggest its removal ; but
just then I would haye been glad of another plunge down the
mountain side.
Upon arriving at Clark's we at once made arrangements
f)
READY FOU THK PLUNGE.
to visit the Big Trees, five miles to the south. The graded
road had ended, and now we were to take ponies along a
winding trail. My belle was not much used to riding, and I
made myself useful in every way possible. I assisted her to
mount, adjusted her riding skirt, and then climbed upon my
own nag. As we followed the trail along its winding way
among large spruce and pine, I always managed to keep close
to her, and was ever ready to lead her pony over difficult
places.
80
THE LOST BELLE.
Look ! what mighty forms, whose towering heads reach
toward the sky ! Only a ghmpse we at first catch of them
through the dense forests ; then nearer and nearer they come
like a new world moving upon us. Foliage thick and deep
is beginning to hover above us, the light of the sun is disap-
pearing, shut out by tree tops which seem to swim in the
soft ethereal sky.
Now we approach the " Fallen Monarch," far up whose
side many an insect man has climbed to carve his name.
Ascending the ladder we stand upon its mighty trunk. How
grand and majestic is the prostrate king, although his head,
once towering so proudly above the surrounding forest, has
taken its flight to earth.
Our party becoming somewhat scattered about this time I
missed my belle, and looked here and there, listening to hear
her voice and laughter, but could see or hear nothing of her.
1 put spurs to my pony and went galloping around to the
Caleb's race course.
opposite side of Grizzly, where I found her apparently wait-
ing my coming. How beautiful her smile !
From Grizzly we soon came to another fallen tree, which,
from the effects of the fire, lay in several parts, like great
hollow logs upon the ground. Caleb undertook to ride
A STARTLING DISCLOSUKE. 81
through one of them ; as the pony was in a hurry to get
the job done he shot ahead, and on reaching the place where
the opening was smallest, Caleb was brushed from his saddle,
and the steed emerged from the farther end of the log, rider-
less.
Close by was the " Queen of the Forest," very tall, very
stately, and beautiful, but I fancied that, like Elizabeth in
her old age, she was becoming wry and gnarly from rejecting
so many proposals of the surrounding monarchs.
The Ancient Couple stood so closely together as to fulfill
the strictest law of union — especially in these days. They
had weathered the storms of many a century, and now their
garlands, though of evergreen, were faded ; together they
were tottering into their grave. My lass remarked,
" Surely they know by this time whether they are suited.'*
Longfellow and Whittier stood side by side, — both high
and stately ; but the former reached above his companion.
These two gentlemen may trace their relationship back to
Nero or Caesar — yet even then these trees had peeped their
heads above the sod.
In the cool of the evening, winding our way leisurely
among the mountain scenery, we returned to Clarke's. It
would be folly to say that I enjoyed myself during this ride,
and that the attractions of my darling were more irresistibly
impressed upon me than ever before. I thought her sweet,
flowing words, her sparkling laugh, her attractions were per-
fectly angelic, and that it would be a Paradise to spend one's
life wandering with such a lovely creature through the wilds
of the Sierras.
When Caleb and I at our leisure, stepped to the counter
to register our names, I glanced to where our companions'
had just been written down by the son and brother, fondly
hoping that the sister's name had been written last, so that I
might put my own beneath it. I thought the two would
look so well together. It vms written last but judge of my
consternation at finding that it was prefixed by a Mrs. !
There was no mistake about it. One Miss and two Mrs.
6
82
CREST-FALLEX.
comprised the ladies of our party. I crawled off to bed
crestfallen ; to sleep, perchance to dream.
Next day as we wended our way along the trail over the
sides of the mountains, and occasionally through snow-drifts,
it was much more awkward and tedious to be at the service
of the young madam than it had previously been. After
dinner at the Half- Way House our friends concluded to
linger among the mountains. It was with a good will that
I with Caleb passed onward into the valley.
CHAPTER YII.
SIGHTSEEING IN YO SEMITE.
WE were approaching the Yo Semite Yalley, and hcgan
to breathe the air from its mighty chasm. Skirting
along its side we lieard the waterfalls, and now and then
caught glimpses of the opposite wall. Walking and creeping
on an overhanging rock we reached Inspiration Point. Here
a chasm seven or eiijht miles loni^:, from half a mile to a
mile in breadth, and from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in depth,
opened before us in a mountain bed of granite. Hanging
over the edge of the rock upon which we stood, and casting
the eye perpendicularly down until the power of vision was
lost in the depth below, the soul shuddercd and shrank back.
In that lower earth we saw a valley, green, smooth and
beautiful, through which flowed a silvery stream, skirted
with trees, while Bridal Yeil, on this side a short distance
above, and Yo Semite Falls, on the ojiposite side still further
up, poured over the walls their falling streams. Beauty,
grandeur, sublimity, mountain, waterfall, cascade and preci-
pice mingled their attractions. Art was surpassed a thous-
and fold.
Leaving Inspiration Point, we began to descend. Here, at
the lower or western end, was the most favorable place for
doing so; and even at this point we wondered how it was
])ossible for a pony to make his way. But down we went
along a winding trail, at- times ready to shoot headforemost
overboard, plunging under hanging rocks, around sharp
83
84
CALEB'S NIGHT PJDE.
points, and along tlie edge of precipices — till, thrown upon
our ponies' necks, we were constrained to crj out, "TVhoa!
M-hoa !" Sometimes they did whoa, but more frequently
brought np against a tree, or the side of a rock.
When Ave reached the level valley below it was coming
on dusk, but the evening was clear. It was three miles or
BOUND FOR THi; VALLEY.
more to the hotels, yet Caleb wanted to ride way out to
J>ridal Veil, and more, he was determined to do it — so the
guide and I rode on, alternately receding from and approach-
ing the foot of those towering walls ; now in a grassy lawn,
now in a forest, and again winding around gigantic rocks,
fallen from that upper M'orld just beneath the blue sky,
through whose curtains the evening stars, like the eyes of
angels, were beginning to peep.
At Ladick's Hotel I awaited for two hours the arrival of
Caleb, but no Caleb came. I began to wonder what could
detain him, and spoke to the landlord. lie told me that
there were some rough rocks about the foot of Bridal Veil,
and that one might possibly meet with an accident. After
waiting a while longer, I wandered far back on the trail, but
MOOX-RISE IX THE VALLEY.
85
heard notlun<; save the echo of my loud halloa, deadened
by the thunder of distant waterfalls.
All at once a light gleamed along the summit of the north-
em wall. It was the rising moon. Sitting down, as in an
enchanted world, I saw, as the moon rose higher and higher,
the grotesque features and irregularities of the southern wall
pictured on the naturally fantastic canvas of the northern
one. Sometimes a Llack form, which 1 took for a cloud,
floated along the bright upper part of the wall, while dark-
ness and terror hovered, and curled, and yawned below.
Finally the orb of night looked over into the valley,
and upon the level green turf from which arose El Capi-
tan to the startling height of four thousand feet, like
a polished column, formed by a bold curve of the wall.
Startled by a loud boom
of some waterfall, I
thought of Caleb, and ran
forward with affright.
The further I went the
more frightened I grew,
imtil I espied something
approaching, wliicli proved
to be Caleb. He had evi-
dently found the falls, for
he was some excited and
considerably wet ; and he
related h i s adventures
while we were going to
the hotel, as follows : —
"From Iiispiration
Point the waters hung like
a veil down the side of the
wall, then rolled away
in graceful vapors which
lost themselves in gaudy mists far down the vallev;
but what lay beneath that trailing veil no mortal could ever
CALEB TAKING THS T£1L.
86
ADVENTURES AT BRIDAL \T:IL.
have fancied. As I scrambled around their slippery forms,
how tlie "wind blew the water and mist into my face ! while
thundering tones, such as I liad never heard, sounded in my
ears. I did not feel like going up there all at once, so I
stopped behind a large rock that broke off felie driving mist.
At last 1 cautiously ventured beneath the falls and beside
that mighty jarring wall. I did not have the rainbow around
me, for the sun had disappeared. Keither could 1 see dis-
tinctly the magic beauty of the veil woven by the lightning
speed of sparkling drops, and crossed by threads of finest
mist — yet I did not want to see. My soul was too full to
see through mortal eyes ; the thunders of the Eternal God
filled my soul. How 1 got down from there 1 hardly know.
I found my pony, and here 1 am. I have been in a dream
ever since ; but it is not a dream— this valley is a reality."
Kext morning, as we were wandering up the valley, we
saw a cavalry party approaching with their guide, who was
showing them what they ought to look at, what they ought
to admire, and when they ought to quit. But we were not
_ takini; lessons under him, and
- ,■" — - "^ CI? -'
sat down on a stone to let this
school teacher in nature and his
pupils pass along. We noticed
that some of the ladies had miss-
ed the mark in mounting, and
were riding: with a foot on either
side of their steeds. But what
of that — it was only woman's
rights advancing ; and the fash-
ion made good progress, for
before night all had adopted this
stvle, and two lassies whom we
had seen in the morning linger-
ing behind through modesty,
were now racing with their gallant lovers.
Yo Semite Falls, in plain view on the opposite side of the
woman's rights advancing.
YO SEMITE FALLS.
87
valley, pouring its immense body of water over a low place
in the wall — only twenty-six hundred feet high — naturally
attracted our attention; and as they proved to be rather
above onr vision, we hazardously climbed upward about a
thousand feet to the point where the water strikes tlie wall.
Here the scene was almost too terrific for mortals to behold.
We looked above ns sixteen hundred feet, to where a large
stream of water leaped from the rock, dividing into huge
bodies, which kept their distinctive shapes a hundred feet or
more, tlieir edges spreading into vapors, while the center of
ABOVE TFIK FALLS.
each shot down like a comet; still further down they
expanded into a vast sea of vapor and spray, shifting, as the
Mind blew it, three or four hundred yards from side to side,
beating into our faces and through our clothes like driven
rain. The cascade was just at our side, and below us ; at
times its waters were almost hidden from sight by the spray,
88
"I WONT GO HOME TILL MORNIXG."
but ^xe canglit a glimpse of them as it angrily rushed and
plunged onward to take the final leap over the lower preci-
jDice.
We beat a retreat out of the spray and into the sun, where
we stood dripping and drying, and occasionally glancing at
the falls ; and happening to see a crooked tree which shot
its roots into the crevices of the rock just beneath the sum-
mit, we agreed, and shook our wet hats in testimony, that
if we ever visited the Yo Semite again we would sit on that
zigzag tree over the brink of the falls, and gaze down and
down into that awful chasm beneath. But we didn't expect
to come again — at least for a thousand years.
We descended by a circuitous route, occasionally follow-
ing a narrow path over precipices where it seemed one might
commit suicide so accidentally as hardly to trouble his con-
science, and at last came to
a place which defied all our
attempts to pass. Here
we became separated, and
I struck a narroAV i-avine in
the wall, and on following
it, soon reached the valley.
After calling several times
to Caleb, he replied from
far up the side of the dark
wall : —
"Go home, go home —
I'll camp." I concluded
to take his advice, and
proceeded to our hotel.
From the window of my
room I gazed out in the
direction where 1 had
parted from Caleb, and I
knew that the little fire which burned brightly at some
distance above the level of the valley marked his camping
place.
WATCui.sG Caleb's camp-fire.
CALEB'S NICxHT ADVENTURES.
89
At early dawn I was out looking for the straggler, and
soon, to my astonishment, I descried him squirming down a
long pole which he had set against the face of the rock. I
stood in silent dread as he removed the pole and placed it
carefully in a lower niche. Again he descended ; and by
repeating the operation several times he at length stood
beside me. As we walked to the hotel he related to me the
adventures of the night. lie had rested on a ledge not more
than three feet wide, so situated that it would have been
dangerous to roll out of bed ; and he had managed to keep
up a fire by breaking dry branches from a tree near by. lie
had not been the least afraid of bears, for he did not believe
they could climb where he was, even if so disposed.
CAI.Eil S i*l-RlLui;S KBSCKNT.
CHAPTER Yin.
A CLIMB OUT OF THE YALLEY.
AFTEK breakfast we passed far up into the valley, to
where it branches into three deep, narrow canons, and
stood at the entrance to one of them between North and
South Domes. Not a ripple had yet stirred the surface of
Mirror Lake, which lay at our feet, picturing every color,
streak and form of the mighty walls. North Dome hung
beneath the left-hand inverted wall, a thousand times larger
and more grand than the dome of our National Capitol, while,
on the opposite side was South Dome, as perfect as art, but
cut in twain from top to bottom, as by the sword of a
mighty angel ; and one-half of it had fallen into the lake.
Either summit pierced a sky of richest blue, at a height
thirty times that of the Falls of Niagara.
After floating out upon the lake and giving the trout a
chance to bite, — of which they did not avail themselves, — we
ascended the middle canon through a dense forest of ever-
green, winding around gigantic mossy stones whicli had
fallen from the heights above ; while on our left, a dashing
rivulet, white with foam, splashed wildly into the air; and
occasionally we passed under the spray that came floating far
down tliat narrow canon, as if fleeing the thunder of the
distant falls. AV(! met a party of ladies and gentlemen with
umbrellas, who smilingly remarked: —
" Quite showery, to-day."
Quite slippery, thought I, as a couple of the party sat
down rather suddenly on the drenched grass.
90
WE INTERVIEW A GUIDE.
91
In their company, nnder the miglity arch in the right
wail beside Yernal Falls, we stood and gazed upon a broad
and beautiful sheet of water, falling more than three hundred
feet without a ripple. Around us the chasing rainbows
played ; the grassy blades and hanging mosses decked -them-
selves with diamonds ; laughing faces, brighter than an}--
thing else, admired them ; and the happy birds flapped their
winss above the circling sprav.
The Cap of Liberty, a
towering majestic column,
four thousand feet in
height, next engrossed our
attention as we passed up
the gliding stream, until
we were aroused by the
awful thunders of Nevada
Falls, whose waters shot
over a precipice more than
twice the height of Vernal
Falls. After approaching
''/"i-^ them as near as we could,
"'^' " we returned to the valley.
Many days we lingered
in this beautiful vale,
wandering through its syl-
van retreats, ])icking straw-
t-r^
fe.e^^W' "^^a&vi^^^'
'QUITE SnOWERY.
berries and lying upon the
grass in the shade of the trees. On one of these last-named
occasions, our attention was called to Glacier Rock.
" Wouldn't it be grand, Caleb, to perch on that dizzy
point, and at a single view take in all these scenes that have
separately entranced us ? "
•' That's the height of my ambition."
" Look, there comes a guide — I know him by his broad-
brimmed hat. Halloo ! will you please tell me whether the
point of that rock can be reached ? "
" Yes, sir ; by a twenty miles' ride on ponies."
92 A CLIMB BY MOONLIGHT.
" But is there no shorter way ? "
"A few persons with Indian guides have hazardously
scaled those rocks, but if you attempt it there will not be
left pieces of you large enougli for the buzzards to pick."
He' rode out of sight, and we started for Glacier Rock.
We were, of course, fools to do so, but one learns some-
thino- by being foolish, if he survives the experience.
Over rocks that have fallen from the wall we scrambled,
occasionally tumbling between them, causing us to feel a
little fearful that the buzzards would have a chance to try us,
after all. We made for a canon, — or rather a fissure in the
-wall — where dreary darkness soon overtook us, and there we
passed a gloomy, uncomfortable night.
At moonrise, about 2 a. m., we resumed our task, little
dreaming of the difficulties which we Avere to encounter.
Places that did not look very steep or high from below, rose
up like mountains as we approached them ; the rocks were
crumbly, and the slip of a foot might have dashed us to
pieces on the rocks below. But we pressed bravely on to
where the gorge divided ; and after vainly attempting to
follow up the left-hand branch, we tried the right-hand one
with better success. At this point the sun arose in all his
beauty, and although surrounded by difficulties, our hearts
drank in the joy and light that filled the valley.
At length we came to where the gorge was again sub-
divided into many branches, and here m'c were separated. I
climbed up some very threatening rocks and reached a place
which I named " Starvation," where I was captive a weary
hour before I could escape. It was hazardous to proceed,
but more so to return ; so from niche to niche my feet fol-
lowed my hands, until it seemed impossible to ascend further.
The wall proved to be overhanging at the top, while it was
nothing less than destruction to look down or attempt to
retrace my footsteps.
Hark! what is that startling crash ? 'l listen in awful sus-
pense until the sound and echoes die away in the depths
beneath, and then fear to call, lest no voice answers me.
nOLDLVa ON FOR LIFE.
93
A few minutes later and I Lear another crash. Then 1
halloo, but almost fear to do so, lest the sound will loosen my
frail clasp. I call and listen, but no answer. 1 call
again, but only hear the echo reply. Fearful moments !
had they not soon passed I should have been dashed to the
bottom ! But I heard a voice that seemed above me, and at
once knew that Caleb had been in too precarious a position
to answer. Presently he hallooed again, and I told him, as
best I could in a word or two, my position, and that in a
few moments more it would be either life or death, as I
could not long cling to the wall ! A brief pause and 1 heard
his voice :
"Hold on, Wildair ; I'll make a rope ! "
Aroused by renewed hope, I sustain myself with more
ease, wondering, however, where he can obtain material for
TH£ RESCUE.
the rope. Crash come the stones, dancing and bouncing
above my head. I look up and see nearing me the end of a
94 WILDAIR'S SOLILOQUY.
brush rope tied together with bark. Happy moment ! it
just reaches me. The thought of life, of a speedy rescue,
imparts strength sufficient for the emergency, and I climb,
while Caleb draws on the rope. A decaying tree against
which he sets his foot, comes near brushing me off, but with
increased effort the point is at length gained in safety. Long
I lie upon the precipice and almost worship that rope as the
means of my deliverance. Then wearily we resume the ascent,
climbing on until past noon, when again we separate.
Our courses diverge more than we anticipated. I come
to a place that seems to defy my power to ascend. I pause
and soliloquize : If I get above this overhanging rock I must
climb around to one side, along a ledge over a precipice,
where, if a hand slips I shall be precipitated into a chasm
hundreds of feet below me. I call to Caleb two or three
times, but hear no answer. What shall I do? I have tasted
no food since 4 o'clock last evening, and then but a small
and insufficient quantity. My tongue is parched from thirst
and I am exhausted from fatigue. I look above and see
that I liave nearly reached the top ; if only 1 were above
this I am sure I should have but little difficulty beyond. I
cannot retreat ; I must go forward, if but to my death.
Reaching to the side, I pull myself around and hang dang-
ling over the edge of the ravine. Have I, (with the slight
holds for my hand,) strength to pull myself above ? I make
one mighty effort, feel my arms tremble, and my muscles
begin to weaken ; but 1 gain a better foothold now, and
push myself up. At last I reach the rock and fall exhausted
upon its ragged surface. Soon recovering myself, I begin to
look about me.
But where is Caleb ? Calling several times but receiving
no repl3% I presume that he has made his way up the rising
ground through the brush to the trail, so I push on in that
direction. My foot is caught between the limbs of a fallen
tree and held fast ; the branches tear my clothes ; the dust
rises from the dry limbs, and I almost choke with thirst.
But I continue on, still calling to Caleb, yet receiving no
THE MEETIXG. 95
response. Finally 1 strike the trail, down which I follow the
Glacier Hock ; but Caleb is not here as 1 expected. 1 sit
down to wait.
After looking at the valley a few moments I creep out
upon the overhanging rocks, only three or four feet wide at
the point which projects over the precipice, here to look
down the perpendicular wall to the valley below. My
energies seem to have left me, and soon I fall asleep. After
a while I awake startled. My brain reels ! I shrink back !
Almost before terror is banished from my mind, comes the
anxiety for Caleb. I look up the trail. Joy ! yonder he
comes. We meet ! Each is anxious to hear from the other.
We waste no time in lookinc^ at the vallev, but make straitrht
for some snow banks we discern not far away, upon mIucIi
"we sit, talking, and eating snow until our lips are swollen
almost as thick as our hands.
We now look down into the valley. We see the walls,
domes and waterfalls, but catch no inspiration from them ;
their beauty fails to awaken any enthusiasm on our ])art.
AVe discern the grove and the grassy lawn, at the eilge of
■which we had stopped to rest. We look at the guides and
visitors riding past like specks, nearly a mile be'ow us ; then
turn our weary steps along the winding trail of five miles to
the Ilalf-Way House, wondering that wo are yet in the land
of the living, and resolving in our hearts never to be so
foolish again. The distance seems long and tedious. We
pass near Sentinel Dome, but have no desire to ascend. We
tarry for a few moments and gaze at the Sierra Nevadas,
rearing their cone-shaped peaks as far as the eye can reach ;
some so sharp and jagged as to pierce through their snowv
coverings, leaving their uncapped heads to battle with the
fiercest storms; while to the east a few miles, the ]^eak called
" Cloud's Eest " climbs upward and upward, till its summit
is lost among the clouds.
Again taking up our march ; at length we reach our desti-
nation, and with our rude canes walk up to the log fire in
front of the hotel, around which the guests are assembled to
96
RETURN OF THE WANDERERS.
beguile the pleasant evening hours. All are amazed and
look upon us with astonishment. We cannot answer their
questions fast enough. Some have finished their supper,
AROUND THE LOG-FIRB.
and now it is prepared for us. For once during the evening
we are natural and do justice to the meal. The landlord
surely wonders if we have not camped out for a week.
After supper, we linger a few moments and review the
various events of the day. Outside, the guests are laughing
and talking. They are from San Francisco, New York and
many other large cities of the East. Some have been to the
valley, others are on their way. AVhat a diversity of themes
they have for conversation, and what a new phase of life for
New York fashionables, to sit around a log-fire beside a
hotel of log-cabins, beneath the wild deep forests of the
Sierras. But we are exhausted, and punching a log-fire has
no charms for us just now; so, weary and worn with our
journey, we retire.
The next day we bade farewell to the matchless Yosemite,
and resumed our travels westward.
o
J
>
H
W
O
CHAPTER IX.
EXPEKIENCES IN SAN FRANCISCO.
WHEN we arrived at San Francisco, Caleb was very
anxious to see a certain young gentleman whom we
had met in Denver. His personal appearance was very
imposing, but when we made his acquaintance he was out
of money. He thought he could do much better were he in
San Francisco, but was out of means and desired ns to assist
him in getting there. However, he did not trouble me
much. I could not imagine why, for I was quite willing to
lend him aid in the matter, but notwithstanding this, he
pressed the affair upon Caleb rather than myself, till I became
somewhat jealous. He told Caleb that he had a brother in
business at San Francisco, but he did not like to wait till this
brother could send him the money, and therefore proposed
accompanying us thither, if Caleb would secure his passage.
As Caleb seemed inclined to be accommodating, I told him that
the fact that the young man and his brother were strangers
to us should not be considered ; that all men were honest
beyond doubt ; that I was anxious to see the young man
prosperous, and that, since he would not take the money
from me, he (Caleb) ought to let him have it. Accordingly
the fellow was provided for. We could not have him
as a traveling companion all the way, however, as we stopped
at different places along our route.
Being anxious to see our friend in his new position, we
started forth with card in hand, bearing the address of his
brother. Presently we came to the street, and soon found
1 ' 99
100 ^ FRUITLESS SEARCH.
the number designated upon the card, looked anxiously at
the sign, and inquired within ; but, confound the gay
deceiver, the result was not satisfactory to ua or according
to representations; no such person occupied the premises or
had ever done so. "VVe examined the city directory, but
could find no one of that name in San Francisco.
Perhaps I ought not to have any unkind feelings toward
the young man for not accepting my offer; neither should
Caleb feel discouraged, but rather magnanimous, for the
privilege of lending, without expecting to receive either
interest or principal. From the way Caleb bore it I imagine
he was trying to make the best of the circumstance, and
practice the Golden Eule. But we were a little surprised
that people to whom we told the story, did not seem to blame
the fellow, but simply termed him "rather old-fashioned."
"When asked to explain that term, they told us that a few
years ago it was the custom for a man, wlien " broke," to
inform the first person he met, that the gold for which he
had been digging was still safe in the mines, but that he
preferred to have fifty or a hundred in hand for the pres-
ent emergency. The generosity of these hardy frontiers-
men, however, seemed likely to be developed to an unthie
extent, before it was discovered that some roughs had taken
the " emergency " complaint in its severest form, requiring
continued treatment and large doses.
The common hardships encountered on the frontier, and
the hopes and uncertainties of gold-mining, tended to
develop in the people of the West a combination of
unbounded generosity and recklessness. The following
incident connected with the early days of San Francisco,
which I have read somewhere, illustrates these traits of
their character.
The " Niin de Oro^'' a gambling saloon in that city, was,
in 1849, the principal resort of the disbanded soldiers of the
California regiments, and also those who had been engaged
in the war with Mexico.
Behind one of the largest monte banks in the room, sat a
A THRILLING NARRATIVE. 101
man who had won for himself honorable mention, and an
officer's commission was given him for his bravery at the
storming of Monterey ; but, preferring the climate of Cali-
fornia and its golden prospects to a northern liome, he
embarked for that country at the close of the war with Mex-
ico, and upon arriving in San Francisco, opened a gam Ming
Bah)on. The emigrants came in by the thousands, and two
or three nights after his arrival, a young man entered the
saloon and seated himself at the bank and staked various sums
on the cards, until he lost nearly all the money he had
possessed.
Excited by the game, and maddened with his losses, he
accused the dealer of cheating ; the latter replied sharply ;
harsh words were exchanged, and then the young man struck
the dealer a severe blow upon the f\iee. Quick as thought,
the sharp report of a pistol followed ; the gambler had shot
his customer. The room was soon cleared of the spectators
present, the door closed, and medical attendance summoned
to aid the wounded man.
The gambler sat moodily over his bank, running the small
monte cards through his fingers, and perhaps meditating of
the deed just perpetrated, when the wounded man gave a
moan of agony as the doctor's probe reached the extremity
of the wound.
The doctor inquired what state he was from, and the
■wounded man replied :
" From Vermont."
The gambler raised his head. It had been a long time
since he had seen a person from the home of his childhood,
and Vermont being his native state, the mere mention of
the name interested him.
The doctor next inquired the name of the place where his
parents resided, if he had any.
"Montpelier."
The gambler sprang to his feet, his limbs trembled, and
his face became pale as death, for Montpelier was the home
of his youth, and perhaps the wounded man might have been
102 THE DYING HUSBAND.
his playmate in childhood ; perhaps a schoolmate who knew
his parents, his brothers and sisters.
A stimulant was given to the wounded man, and the
doctor inquired if there was any friend in the city he wished
to send for.
" Yes," he replied, " my wife. She is at the City Hotel.
Tell her to hasten, for I am badly hurt."
A man was sent to inform his wife.
" Doctor," said the gambler, " save that man's life, and
there is my bank and $10,000 in Burgoyne, and you shall
have it all ? "
The doctor shook his head in token of the impossibility of
recovery.
The gambler sat by the side of the wounded man until the
arrival of his wife. She came, accompanied by a few friends,
and as heroic women bear their misfortunes, she bore hers.
Not a word of reproach was uttered by her. AYords of
cheerfulness only, passed her lips, as tears coursed rapidly
down her cheeks. To her inquiry as to the chances of her
husband's recovery, the doctor assured her that there was no
hope whatever. She sank down on her knees and invoked
the mercy of a forgiving God upon her dying husband and
his murderer.
The gambler knelt at the side of the wounded man, and
asked his forgiveness, and also that of his afflicted wife, for
the great wrong he had committed, which was readily
granted.
" This," said he, " is the result of disobedience to the
sacred injunctions of my aged father and mother. I have
faced death a thousand times, and still I have escaped ; the
balls of the enemy have whistled past my ears as thick as
hailstones, and the bomb has exploded at my feet. Still I
have lived, oh God, and for this ! High above the red tide
of battle 1 have carried my country's ensign, and have won
for m^'self upon the Held, a name among men. AVhcn not
one comrade was left to tell of the battle, I escaped unhurt.
Why was I not killed with the rest ? All that was pleasing
A BROTHER'S BLOOD.
103
to man I have had, and if I could recall this last act ])y living
on husks, sleeping in a pauper's grave, and renouncing every
glorious act of my life, gladly I would do it. I was born in
the same village with that man ; we were nurtured beneath the
same roof, and — O God ! — the same mother gave us birth !
lie must not die — he is my brother ! " And tlie gambler
sunk down in a swoon upon the floor.
The wounded man raised himself upon his elbows ; his
eyes wandered about the room, as if searching for some par-
ticular one.
" Mary," said he, " is my brother William here — "
THE BROTHKKS.
The words choked in his throat, and he sank down upon
his pillow.
The wife knelt again, but it was beside the dead, and
invoked the blessing of God on his soul, and forgiveness for
the murderer.
The gambler awoke from his swoon, staggered up to the
wife, and said :
104
MINERS AND THEIR BURDENS.
" Marj, would it were otherwise, for I have nothing to
live for now ; the dead and dvin^ do not want anvthinoj in
this world ; take this certiiieate of deposit to our aged
father, and tell our parents we are both dead ; but oh, do
not tell them how we died ! "
Bat before the woman could reply, or any one interfere,
the report of a pistol sounded again, and the fratricide had
ceased to live !
On the hill near Tlincon Point, were two graves, a few
years ago, inclosed with a picket fence, and one tombstone
at their head, with this simple inscription : "Brothers !"
But these early drinking saloons and gambling holes have
in twenty -live short years, given place to the great city of
San Francisco, with its vast machine shops, manufactories,
wealth, commerce, and a population of 150,000 enterprising
people.
The business streets of San Francisco and the buildings
fronting upon them, com-
. ^y^.^x pare favorably with those of
""' M^^i? any of the eastern cities ;
^^^^|t stylish ladies, gentlemen and
^'^ carriages throng the thor-
m oughfares, and evidences of
*>^^ wealth are on every hand.
And such quantities of gold !
In this land of gold-mining,
where the circulating medi-
um was the yellow coin, we
saw men crouching like
beasts of burden beneath
their precious loads. "We
never before felt so inclined
to bear another's burdens.
Arrived at the bank, these
men throw their bags upon
the counter, and await their turn— then tumble out their gold
to be counted. The cashier picks up a handful of twenty-
COUNTING IN THE GOLD.
THE OBUGING STRANGER. 105
dollar pieces, slides three and four at a time from hand to
hand, with a rapidity that makes the head swim, nntil lie
has counted twenty pieces. Quicker than thought he slaps
them down in a stack, and in a moment more another one is
beside it. These rapidly grow into one, two, or three rows.
He glances over the number of stacks, and at once arrives
at the value of the whole lot.
Some of this money was tumbled out to us as carelessly as
if it had cost nothing to mine it ; but lo, when we arrived
in China, they weighed every coin. Whether any piece was
found too heavy, I cannot say ; they were not particular
about informing us, if it was. They also weighed our Mex-
ican silver dollars, and banged them all over the floor and
counter, to ascertain whether each had the proper ring.
The result was, that on about one-third of them they charged
a discount of from ten to fifty cents each.
Upon our first initiation into the State of California, the
boys flocked around the train with boxes of strawberries,
shouting :
" One for a bit ; two for a quarter."
Thinking that we wanted two boxes — our eyes being very
large — we immediately told one of the boys that we would
take a couple of boxes, and paid him the quarter. Then I
said to Caleb :
"What fools we are! why didn't I buy one box and you
another? Listen ; those boys are crying them oflf at one for
a bit — two for a quarter. Watch ; yonder man only gives a
dime for one."
" The boys in this country are the biggest fools yet,"
replied Caleb, slightly enraged.
Although the Californians disregard the cents, some are
none too conscientious about the dollars. While in San
Francisco, I was one evening standing by the window of a
jewelry shop, admiring the display, when a fine-looking
young gentleman stopped beside me, apparently to do the
same. Soon he pointed out to me a gold watch-chain, in
the links of which were some slugs of quartz rock, containing
106 " LET US HAVE A DRINK ? "
particles of gold in its original state. Then he said :
" Up the street a block or so is a very elegant jewelry
store ; I suppose you, like myself, are out enjoying the eve-
ning, and if you say so, we will walk along to where it is?"
I began to have an idea regarding this young man, yet as
1 liked to see handsome jewelry, I accepted his suggestion
and we walked along together. We arrived at the place and
found it as represented. My companion then proposed that
we should take a little walk through other portions of the
city. I had an opinion of this young man, a decided opinion,
and desiring to see if it proved correct I accompanied him.
He told me that he was going East shortly, but that he had
been out in the mountains, mining. I thought so, and
returned the compliment by conveying the impression that I
was traveling for pleasure and had plenty of money. He
then became quite confidential, said that he sometimes took
a fancy to a young man, and implied that in this case he had
done so. I replied that I was very glad to know that I was
held in such esteem, and was sure that it was reciprocated.
Presently he spoke about taking a glass of wine occasionally,
— anything stronger he did not approve of. To this I made
no reply, and he was led to suppose that I would not object
to indulge in something of a more fiery nature.
"AVell," said he, "once in awhile I don't mind taking
something stronger myself ; and as I am with a friend, to-
night, let us have a drink ? Up the street a short distance
is a club-room where some of my cronies meet occasionally
to have a friendly chat, and there we can find drinks suited
to our tastes."
I thought probably I had carried the thing far enough,
and hesitated as to going further.
"Oh," said he, "it's only a short distance; it won't take
much time ; come on."
I walked along with him as though it were all right, yet
looking well to my steps. "When, however, he turned up a
side street, I pulled out my watch and suddenly halted.
" I have an engagement with an old chum," said I, " it is
now past the hour, and I must be off."
"YOU ARE A RASCAL!"
107
" Don't go yet, it will only take a moment."
" No, he will wonder where I am ; I must be goin^^," and
I started off.
But my acquaintance was not to be shaken off so easily,
and before we parted he made me promise to meet him the
next eveninof on the corner of two desi<inated streets.
Then he bade me good evening, pressed my hand warmly,
and again assured me that he had enjoyed my society very
much.
At the appointed hour, next evening, as I approached the
rendezvous, 1 saw him there anxiously awaiting my coming.
He was very glad to see me again, and we soon reached the
side street previously named. After passing down it some
distance he stopped, and with a key unlocked a door which
opened at the foot of a
dark stairway leading — I
don't know where. Here
I came to a sudden halt, and
said :
" Doubtless vou think I
am a fool, but 1 know that
you are a rascal — too low to
crawl with the worms of
the earth — too mean to
creep into the slimy hole
of the serpent. It is well
for you that I refuse to
accompany you to your
den. I have my hand upon
my revolver, and would not
hesitate to shoot vou or
your villainous accomplices
at the first demonstration."
THE STOOL PIGEON.
He went sneaking up the stairs,
and I started for a more congenial locality.
I scarcely ever listen to yarns, but in camp or at hotels it
sometimes becomes a moral necessity to do so. The follow-
ing is a specimen of some of the many stories we heard
related.
108
"PLODDING JOE'S" DISCOVERT.
In one of the old and almost deserted camps near Virginia
City, an unwearied miner, who went by the name of Plod-
ding Joe, still lingered, carelessly blasting away among the
stones in search of some undiscovered streak of luck. One
day he had nearly finished drilling a hole when he heard a
groan. He listened a moment, then resumed work again,
and soon heard a shriek. Taking this for a good omen, he
patriotically began to pour powder into the hole, but it came
out again like the crack of a volcano, carrying Joe high in air.
Well, Joe naturally came
down after the space of
about a quarter of an hour,
with the crowbar still in
his hands. With new zeal
he resumed the drilling,
but what was his astonish-
ment when he heard tones
more human than before
his departure, and what
was still more strange, upon
hoisting his crowbar he
found that the point thereof
was of a sanguinary hue.
Plodding Joe wasn't
sharper than common fel-
lows, yet he formed an
opinion that made hira
leave his drill suddenly behind him at the rate of two
bumble-bees and a hornet on the course.
Running across some straggling miners, he and they
evinced enough curiosity to return and hold a deliberation
over the bloody crowbar. One thought Joe had speared the
Old Fellow of the lower regions, which theory seemed to
explain the blowing-up arrangement ; another suggested that
a rich miser might be caged up here as a punishment for
extracting tbe gold from the rock. This was a happy
thought — " Perhaps he has his gold with him ; " so down
"hire I AM again!"
INQUEST AND VERDICT. 109
went the crowbar into tlie hole again. But no human tone
was heard. Yet upon lifting the instrument, fresh blood
appeared upon the iron. Harder than ever they worked ;
but all was silence, save a jarring, grating sound produced
by the fall. Now they reasoned among tliemselves and
drilled other holes. Having completed six drills in the
form of a parallelogram, they prepared for blasting, lighted
the fuse and then ran awa3^
A tremendous explosion ensued, but as there were no
supernatural results, they concluded that if it was the devil,
they had snrely killed him. So cautiously approaching, they
peeped down into the excavation, and there discovered the
body of an old miner noted for his untidiness of person,
who had mysteriously disappeared some time previous.
An inquest was at once held, and the written verdict was
drawn up as follows :
" Whereas, our comrade laid down here exhausted with
the burden of eai-th and stone dust which had accumulated
over him to a frightful extent, be it known that it was
found necessary to blast him out, though we sincerely re-
gretted the loss of a brother.
Whereas, by his side lay a great bag of tobacco, nearly
emptied of its contents, and in his mouth remained the
stem of a pipe yet smoking, be it known that it was this
pipe which discharged the first blast of powder, and might
as well have killed Plodding Joe.
And as a memorial, we regret that he left nothing to his
memory, and that we did not leave him to his own natural
burying."
Of course we visited the Seal Rocks. Fast horses, stvlish
gentlemen and fair ladies, were continually swec|)ing along
that drive of six miles leading thither from San Francisco.
A cold, penetrating sea breeze blew sharply when we went,
ending the pleasure of some, and rousing up the latent vigor
of others.
Arrived at the Seal Rock House, we took our seats on the
portico, high above the wild Pacific waves that ever dashed
110 "BEX. BUTLER" AT HOME.
upon tlie worn rocks beneath ns. Within gunshot were a
score of seals, as safely protected from harm through the
veneration of mankind, as are the pigeons of Venice. Leap-
inc head-foremost from the rocks, tusselin<? with one
another at various depths in the water, scrambling up the
sides of the rocks, washed back by the next wave, contend-
ing for position, but finally rolling in the embrace of one
another into the splashing waters, all the while roaring and
yawning, like lions in distress, they enact scenes upon which
thousands look with interest.
But their sleepy moods attracted my most earnest atten-
tion. Here came " Old Ben. Butler," as they called him,
from his cold bath to the warm sunny bed that he preempted
many years ago, the right to which he still seemed inclined
to maintain. Some of the seals, sleek as moles from their
late baths, made way for him to pass ; while many others, in
profound sleep moved not till Ben, raked his finny paws
across their noses, or gave them a shower bath from his
dripping hide. But Ben. now runs across an old sleeper
that claims the dignity of being respected, and growling
gives hnn to understand that he must not waken him. Ben.
however, persists in telling him to get out of the way or he
will climb over him. But the sleeper only roars and snores;
so Old Ben. gives him a smack on the jaw, at which the
snorer throws up his long tusks, opens his red, terrific mouth,
and invites him to walk in. As Ben. accepts the invitation,
they rake each other down with their tusks, as if climbing
icebergs. They tumble over others in profound sleep, who
in turn awaken, until the disturbance becomes general, and
each one growls, or roars, or yawns, and complains of the
ways of Providence.
In the distance, a score of miles of more, the jagged
Forlorn Rocks rise from the water like the adamantine
remains of mountains stormed by the sea. Over their steep
sides, like spots on a leopard's back, M-ere the nests of the
sea gulls, thousands in number, on which sat birds of various
colors.
CHAPTER X.
FIRE AND BRIMSTONE.
SOME people do not profess to believe in " fire and brim-
stone;" such persons, evidently, never saw the Geysers
of California. Let the boldest person stand by the Devil's
Chaldron, as black as night, and feel the very ground burning
his boots, and breathe the stifling sulphur, and behold the
vapor from a hundred fissures steaming about him, and if he
doesn't inwardly exclaim, " Beneath is the fiery abyss ready
to burn up the world and the wicked," he surely possesses a
conscience serenely tranquil.
As we approached this interesting iocaiity we plunged
down the winding mountain path, and quickly arriving at
the bottom of a narrow valley, gazed upon a wonderful sight.
Behold ! all over the lower slope of one side of the mountains,
and for a short distance up a steep ravine branching off from
the principal stream, dense vapors are rising. Here it seems
is the great laboratory of Nature, in which are not bottles of
chemicals, but hills and mountains of unstable acids which
are set into heaving commotion by some unseen agency.
With stick in hand to feel our way, we follow up the
ravine leading into the mountains. All around us are a
thousand holes and crevices, each having a peculiarity of its
own, yet from each comes a hissing and steaming as if a
hundred machine shops were at work, a hundred furnaces in
full blast. The ground is hot — our feet are burning — and
each step seems hotter than the last. The earth shakes
beneath us ; the hot vapor rises to our faces ; we are almost
111
112
THE LABORATORY OF NATURE.
suffocated, and liurrj on as fast as possible. In some places
the water is clear as crystal, in others as black and thick as
tar, and varying from luke-warm to boiling heat.
"We are now at the " Witches' Chaldron," an opening six
or eight feet in diameter, whose black, thick waters boil,
heave, and bubble. Should Caleb and I fall within we would
become the witch's soap-grease on short notice, and all that
would be left to tell of our former grandeur would be a few
brass buttons.
Further on up this ravine, not more than fifty feet from
its boiling waters, under its shady trees we take a drink at a
refreshing spring, cool and clear. Other parts of the Geysers,
other than up this ravine, are similar, but less striking. From
the floating vapors is deposited everywhere a thick coating
varying in color from white to yellow. In places it has an
acid taste; in others it seems to be pure sulphur.
Wandering down from the Geyser House, we chanced to
run upon a bachelor's hall, where anyone of this persuasion
suffering from dyspepsia, rheumatism, or disappointed love,
BACU£LUKS HALL.
could board at seven dollars a week, eat hard bread baked in
the ashes, sleep on the floor, and bathe in the mineral springs,
providing he furnished his own towel or agreed to dry in the
sun.
THE COAST RANGES 113
"We returned from the Geysers by a route which led down
the Sonoma and Santa Kosa Valleys. For a couple of miles
from the Geysers, the road wound along the side of the
mountains, up one of the steepest grades. We followed for
several miles the summit of a range fo narrow that in places
there was barely room for the coach, and so steep on either
side that it was frightful to look down, it being several
thousand feet to the bottom. Casting the eye along this
narrow ridge, the winding road seemed like a long wavy
thread floating in the air; other ranges on either side,
approached till the chasm between was almost bridged over.
At Petaluma we took a steamer and sailed down the Rus-
sian River, and across the bay to San Francisco, having spent
three or four days very pleasantly and profitably. On this
trip to the Geysers we saw some of the finest portions of
California.
The dry mountain air and the moist ocean breezes play
hide and seek through San Francisco Bay, while sunshine
and fog clap their hands over the great city. But in the
long narrow valleys, between the Coast Ranges, bright spring
prevails, though occasionally fog from the bay is driven far
up their endless windings. These valleys repose between
steep green mountains, over which vineyards are beginning
to spread, like tlie picturesque hills of Italy and Switzerland
where the mountain sides teem with villages, and prophesy
the future of our own illimitable West, when upon her num-
berless mountain-sides shall be found the happy homes of
peace and prosperity.
CHAPTER XI.
POETRY OF THE OCEAK
"TTTE became acquainted -o-ith the oldest inhabitant of
T T San Francisco, at least lie claimed that honor, and he
looked as though his claim was as good as any other person
to that distinction ; said he, " I believe there are now but
seven hundred who profess to have been the first settler ; and
as their powers of absorption must increase as their num-
bers diminish, why, it won't be long before this oldest
inhabitant business will be done away with. Why, gentle-
men, I have had nigh a hundred men try to make me believe
they were here before I thought of coming; yes sir, and there
were persons who believed them."
He lived near an over-hanging rock from which a view of
the great bay could be obtained when it was not foggy. It
was a beautiful outlook ; and here we watched the ships
enter and depart, longing for the arrival of the one on which
we had engaged passage for Japan. The time would have
passed tediously indeed but for our " first settler," who had
a story connected with every point of interest about the bay.
If a vessel carried the Spanish flag, it suggested to him some
etory of intrigue; if English, something commercial. Eut
one day in the midst of a romantic story, he shaded his eyes
wnth one hand and pointing towards a large steamer, informed
us, that that was our vessel. We never heard the end of his
story, but from that moment became absorbed in the prepa-
rations for departure.
To one who had never seen an ocean steamer this vessel
114
>
K
C
n
GOOD-BYE TO SAN FRANCISCO. 117
was trul}' a wonder. "We paced the deck and found it to be
one hundred and twent^'-five good steps in length, and twenty-
five in breadth ; looking down from its lofty side the people on
the wharf seemed like Lilliputians moving like a colony
of ants, amid heaps of barrels, boxes, and bales. On one
side a huge chasm received twelve hundred tons of fuel for
our outward voyage, and when the grimy men had completed
their task of loading the coal, the keel of the steamer seemed
only a foot or two deeper in the water. Dny and night men
and horses tugged at the freight, and yet there was room
for more.
At length the time for sailing arrived. At the last hour
two wagons laden with barrels came down to the wharf,
while the crowds of Chinese reverently parted to allow the
wagons to approach close to the side of the vessel. Then
the barrels were hoisted on board, each one marked Avith
curious Chinese characters announcing that Sing Lung or
Hum Po might be found pickled within — at least so we
were told by a very intelligent Chinese steward, who also
informed us that every steamer carried back a number of
these dead Celestials — the most darling desire of all of them
being to be buried in their native land.
Finally the ropes which secured the ship to the wharf
were cast off, the liugh paddle wheels revolved, and amid the
shoutings and " God speed " of thousands, we passed down
the bay and out the Golden Horn into the Pacific Ocean.
It was far from pleasant yet we charitably loaned ourselves
to dissembling a little libel. "Isn't this delightful," said
Caleb. I said " Yes ; glorious." I referred to the fog, which
was so thick we could not see twenty-five feet in any direc-
tion, which was a mercy perhaps, for had I been permitted
to see the shore I might have attempted to try a long swim.
Some one suggested that it would be pleasant to sit near
the warm smoke-stack ; so we moved thither, and tried to
enjoy the delightful views of the ocean. It was not our
intention be it understood to try to drive away sea-sickness,
thoyarh I am of the oDinion that the breeze was capable of
118 CONVERSATIONS WITH THE riLOT.
driving away anything else. Some of ns liked our novel
situation so much that we forgot to go down to tea. The
deep bass of the sounding gong had no music for us while
listening to the roar of the billows. Soon the darkness of
the night closed around us, yet some two or three of us
still lingered, talking of the grand old ocean, until the
engineer on duty passed on his third or fourth round with
his lantern, to oil and examine the machinery ; soon after
the bell tolled half past nine we retired to our state rooms.
The next morning when we came upon deck, the drunken
vessel, the dizzy-headed spars before our eyes, reminded us
of what we would fain forget.
Although the vessel was surging yet I managed to stagger
toward the bow. Oh 1 was feeling delicious — just indeed
like a sea-sick man, a condition which to be fully appreciated
must be experienced. Meeting the first mate I said :
" Yery rough ! "
" Ah mv friend we are having a smooth sea."
I staggered on, I didn't want to hear anything more from
him ; on reaching the pilot house, I looked in and inno-
cently suggested :
" "What an unsteady sea we are having."
" There's nothing rough about this," was the reply.
I turned my back upon the speaker at once, saying to
myself: " He's a fraud and knows better."
Stepping forward I leaned against the compass stand. To
and fro the third mate on watch was passing. He approached ;
I wondered if he was " another." I meant liar, but didn't
say it. Catching his eye I remarked :
" Quite blustering this morning ! "
" Ha ! ha ! things are rather on a calm."
I could scarcely refrain from telling him that he and all
the rest of the crew were lunatics. I looked toward the
Chinaman on watch at the extreme forward point of the
vessel. I wanted to get his opinion, and if he didn't say it
was rough, I felt I should throw him overboard. Just then
the vessel gave a mighty lurch ; I slipped, and tumbling
RATHER ROUGH ON WILDAIR.
119
upon the deck was splashed by a wave, all of which was a
source of great merriment to the mate and Chinaman. As
ONLY A RIPPLE, SIR.
I climbed up I cast an angry look towards the officer, where-
upon he remarked :
" Ha ! ha ! these are only ripples."
I had felt indignant enough before, but to get ducked and
be laughed at overcame my composure. So I said:
" Any fool knows this is rough ; " and after saying that I
quickly left the locality, and went staggering off' towards
Caleb. After relating to him what the wretches had said he
thought their object had been to make it appear that they
had been in some wonderful storm. This quite appeased
my anger and we went down to dinner, but were only able
to look upon the others enjoying the meal, ourselves not
being just now in good appetite.
After dinner the conversation turned upon the voyage. I
became quite animated, tried to look lively, and remarked :
120
INWARD CONVICTIONS.
"You don't generally experience sucli smooth seas?"
One of the officers unconsciously remarked :
" Oh, so far it has been rather rough."
" Rough ! I call these only ripples."
Seeing their astonishment at my facetious replies I quietly
Avalked away, the passengers evidently thinking meanwhile
that the green seamen had run across an old sailor.
As day after day dragged slowly along we were unable to
picture to ourselves such a thing as stability amid the end-
less world of w^ater which tossed us to and fro on its capricious
waves. "We're not sea-sic-liic ; " oh no! but inwardly
we had deep convictions that anything in the wide world
would be a relief if Ave could but make any exchange of our
feelii"igs ; so we drank slyly a quart or two of sea-water, which
helped us to pour out our pent up griefs and woes upon the
bosom of old Ocean. Each outburst of our sorrow gave a
renewed hope of relief, and
finally we were all right, a
little weak in our nerves,
but picking up in strength
of appetite.
To some extent the poetry
and sublimity of the ocean
at last was realized. To our
surprise it soon became our
delig-ht to sit at the extreme
end of the bow as it almost
dipped the waters, then
arose thirty or forty feet
above the dancing waves.
A shoal of whales which wo
passed the first morning
from San Francisco had
hardly attracted our atten-
CASTISG BREAD CPOS THE WATERS. |Jon althOUgll tllCSC CCta-
ceous monarchs of the ocean were spouting water high into the
air with every exhalation. Notwithstanding we then passed
SCENES AT SEA, 121
througli linndreds of miles where the blue deep below was
dotted tliick as the stars above by blubber-fish, yet they
hardly aroused our curiosity. But now we could sit for hours,
watehincj the flying-fish as they shot out of one side of a
billow, flitted across the chasm, then disappeared in the next
wave ; or tracing the course of some large flsh by the silver
wings that flew up along his track ; or again watching with
delight the foam-capped billows chase each other from where
the deep blue waters seemed to mingle with the clouds above ;
thus days of rest faded unconsciously into nights of dreams.
Seen at a distance a shoal of porpoises leaping fi-om the
water reminded me of a drove of black hogs or buffalo
ranting through the tall grass on our "Western jirairies.
They were a common scene; but one morning as the sea was
rolling high, we noticed from our window a very large scull
of them near our vessel. "\V"e hurried upon deck to obtain a
better view. Leaping from one wave and plunging into the
next, playing all about the bow, they sported with the pur-
suinir vessel. AVe looked far down into the water at their
graceful motions, and as they swam they hardly seemed to
wave ; j'et, when their fins, which were ranged like spears
along their backs, came to the surface it was as though so
many swords with the speed of shooting arrows cut the water.
"When our vessel touched some of their fins, they gave their
tails a flap or two that sent them darting here and therewith
the speed of lightning. They were a species of the dolphin
which chase the swift flying fish from the water, catching
them as they light, whose brilliant colors in the sun-light,
flash ever varying tints of golden blue and green with every
movement. But in death their rapidly changing colors
render them still more beautiful.
"Parting day
Dies lilic the dolphin wliom each pang imbues
With a new color as it gasps away,
The last still loveliest, till 'tis gone, and all is gray."
It was expected that we should meet one of the other
steamers of the line and for twenty-four hours a watch-
man had been stationed on a spar of the main mast high
122 " THE AMERICA."
above the light, l^ext morning as the sun mounted up the
eastern sky, the expected steamer approached ns from
the west ; it was the only vessel we saw during the whole
voyage. A signal was given through our steamer, and every
person sprang from his couch and hastened upon deck. Soon
"we could see the waving handkerchiefs, and read upon the
steamer the name, " America." The captain of each vessel
stepped npon the high stand over the side wheel and loudly
saluted each other, "All's well ;" the vessels halted side by
side npon the broad ocean. Over the M-ave came half a
dozen Chinese rowers, who, with even strokes, dipped their
long oars in the sea that Avith every swell raised them aloft,
then hid them from our view. Soon mails M-ere exchano-ed :
the little skiif rowed back ; the pulley ropes hooked to its
either end ; and the steamers were again under way M-hile the
dangling oarsmen were assisting to hoist their boat up the
side of the vessel.
Boom ! boom ! and either vessel trembled while the sound
of the cannon's roar died away without an echo in that
bonndless space as imperceptibly vanished the forms on that
departing vessel, strangers from far distant climes, with whom
we had exchanged the welcome of friendship, meeting npon
this wide breadth of water far from our homes. Soon the
hull of their vessel dropped over the wave, the little . sail
glided down beyond the encircling rim of the ocean, and
left us gazing vacantly in the distance, while our thoughts
went out towards that bright land which contained home,
friends, all the past, and like the "America" seemed to be
passing away.
Only four trips more did this steamer, honored by the
name of our country, make over the billows; for not long
after we met her, the mountains and bay around Yeddo wero
lighted up by the vanishing glory of the largest of our
Pacific Steamers, the ill-fated America.
CHAPTEPv Xn.
A VOYAGE ON THE rACIFIC.
•
BY degrees vre became accustomed to sea life, spending
many an hour, that otherwise would have been monoto-
nous, sitting on deck in the cool of the evening, listening to
yarns of the deep. Nearly all of the score of European
passengers except ourselves had been accustomed to sea
voyages, and several had been officers on ship board ; and as
farmers love to talk about their pigs, corn, and horses, so
these bold sailors never tired of relating incidents of wrecks,
adventures, and narrow escapes. One evening, at our usual
assembly, an old salt remarked : —
" I always noticed that when a missionary was on board
our vessel we had a rough voyage."
" I see no reason for that," replied one of the passengers.
" It's even so," responded another seaman. " Once we
had about a dozen on board, and I thought the vessel would
go to pieces ! 'Twas rough all the way. "When our steamer
was wrecked," continued he, "our cat was not on board. It
was the first trip he ever missed, and he always seemed to
know the hour when we were to sail. Even the rats scamp-
ered off; and seeing it, several of the sailors absolutely
refused to go on board."
Then he went on with a long and tedious story, only the
remnant of which we will relate. But we listened to it all
patiently, because we had nothing else in the world to do.
" After the steamer struck the rock the crew and passen-
gers escaped to the island near by As the fury of the waves
123
124
A SEAMAN'S YARN.
increased, the thought occurred to me that if we obtained
an}^ provisions from the ship it would liave to be done quickly.
So I gathered half a dozen of the boys and started in one of
the boats. The way we M-ere togsed about was indeed fright-
ful ! But as one can not die until his time comes, we finally
reached the vessel, and four of us climbed upon the deck.
We chopped holes into the provision room, and took out just
what we wanted, only the ducks and geese were all drowned.
Then we went to the cattle stall, and lo ! one steer had his
head above water. After great efforts we chopped him out
also, and then pushed him overboard. lie went splashing
A STEER-AGE PASSENGER S FIRST DIVE.
into the water with head and tail erect. It was his first dive,
and a deep one too, but he rose and swam safely to the
island. AVe followed, but I had ordered some of the boys,
when we reached the shore with the provisions, to be ready
with clubs, and to run in, knocking passengers and every one
else out of the way. So as we came riding upon the sand on
a tremendous wave I shouted, 'Now boys,' and on they
rushed with their clubs. One gathered a sack, another a ham
of bacon, and off" we ran into a distant part of the island into
the brush, and hid our provisions in the sand. I rather
think we feasted then to our fill."
Then followed a long account of the killing of the steer,
OFFERINGS TO THE GODS. 125
and of various squabbles in all of which he was the hero ;
after which he concluded with the following: —
" Several days rolled by on the island, and the time came
when another steamer should be aloni^ ; finally we saw her
in the distance and hoisted signals to attract attention, but
on she went. "When however all were just giving her up,
we noticed she was turning, and knew we were observed.
When she came np, the way I hurried the lean passengers
aboard wasn't slow."
After he had finished his story, a gentleman who had some
knowledfi^e of him and knew he had never ranked hiirher
than assistant engineer, wounded his vanity somewhat by
remarking as if for information : —
"You were captain of the wrecked steamer?"
But he did not seem to know that an answer was in order,
and said nothing.
Though living exposed to influences that are very demor-
alizing, sailors of all nations have an instinctive trust in the
God of the waves and the storm. We were told by the
engineer that once during a fearful Typhoon, the Chinese
firemen deserted the furnaces to implore their god Josh, and
that oflicers with drawn clubs were necessary to keep them
at their posts of duty. Some of the Chinese passengers on
our steamer would approach the side of the vessel during a
storm, and scatter to the wind and the waves showers of
paper — bank-notes of the priests to buy the favor of the
gods of these elements.
As soon as the storm abated these same passengers would
fall upon their knees, in groups, and commence gambling;
while the Europeans, passengers and ofticers, staked money,
as to the distance passed, more eagerly than on former days
as the storm had rendered the speed more uncertain. A
machine oiler told me how shrewdly he had pulled the
strings by betting ten dollars with a waiter that they would
not make under two hundred miles, and with a steward that
they would not make over two hundred and fifty. " Kow,"
says he, " if it falls on either side I lose nothing ; if between,
I gain both — do you see ? "
126
AN ECCENTRIC CALENDAR.
One afternoon a strange incident transpired. In the
twinkling of an eje we crossed the 180^ meridian from
Greenwich, and jumped from Saturday the 15th, directly into
Sunday the 16th, In crossing this meridian in the opposite
direction, they told us they were sometimes thrown from
Sunday into Saturday, having then to pass through another
Sunday. Dear knows they need to pass through half-a-dozen
to learn how to keep them properly.
Next morning after this occurrence a Chinaman came
•wandering vacantly into the cabin. We supposed this con-
fusion of the calendar had deranged his brain. The guard
A TRYING TIME.
soon ushered him out, and on followins: soon after we found
him handcuffed to a post in a distant part of the ship. A
crowd was collected around, laughing at his futile attempts
to release his wrists. Soon along came the " tater-peeler "
on his way to the cellar; to be very smart he went through
the motion of unlocking the handcuffs. Seeing the absent
FROM GAY TO GRAVE,
127
looks of the crazy man showed notliing of suspicion, but
rather of expectation, he tried his trichs still further, makin<ij
signs that he was going to unlock his mouth ; upon which the
fellow opened his lips, to the great merriment of the by-
standers.
But the farce was soon changed to what threatened to be
a tragedy. There was a great commotion in the crowd,
caused by a couple of Chinamen who were assaulting each
other with knives in a Inost reckless manner. Luckily the
A QUEUE-RIOUS SEPARATION.
guards were on the spot in time to help them out of the
difficulty, which they did by seizing them by their head-tails
and jerking them apart in an energetic manner.
The Chinese are like sheep, gentle and patient, detesting
and fearing to fight, but wlien once aroused, courageous and
malicious, knocking each other's brains out at the shortest
notice. I was told they never fight with their fists. They
128 DRIFTED OUT TO SEA.
act on tlie principle that as fighting is horrible it should he
done in the shortest M'ay.
Down among the Ciiinese passengers -were three Japanese,
who had been picked up by our steamer on h«r last voyage
to America. When three days out from Japan the attention
of the crew was directed to an object on the horizon, which,
by aid of glasses, was discovered to be a small boat fer out
on the broad ocean. As the steamer approached it and
whistled, a hand waved a response out of the little window.
One of the boats was loM'ered, and sent to the relief of its
inmates, who were found near the last extremity of starva-
tion, while one already dead had been fed upon by his sur-
viving comrades. Driven out by the change of the monsoon,
and losing their rudder, they had been drifting about in the
ocean for three months.
After being fed and clothed in American costume by the
Japanese consul at San Francisco, they were now going back
home on the ship which saved them. Like all Japanese they
were very polite. On making their final acknowledgement
of gratitude to the captain, they bowed their faces to the
floor of the deck and almost crawled into his presence.
They were of the lowest class of Japanese, who wear scarcely
any clothes in summer, and their re-appearance in such
strange attire must have surprised their friends.
Among the cabin passengers were two other Japanese, who
had been to America preparing themselves for interpreters.
They dressed in our costume, wore kid gloves, smoked cigars,
and seemed in every way ready to adopt American ways ;
while a Chinese commissioner, also a cabin passenger,
deviated not the least from Chinese dress.
"VVe all rose early on the morning of the 24th, and as the
sun first looked down upon the surrounding scene the moun-
tainous shores of Japan rose out of the depths of water.
It was Niphon, the kingdom of the Eising Sun ; and we
imagined that his majesty never rose on a greener or more
beautiful isle. Small sailing vessels, and smaller craft M-ith-
out sails, were in sight, and as our gigantic ship plowed by
WE ANCHOR IX YEDDO BAY. 129
them, their crews looked np with wonder, while we, on the
otlier hand, looked at them with eqnal curiosity. The dwell-
ings along the shore, magnified by our glasses, presented the
appearance of comfortable homes. Passing into Yeddo Bay,
we were delighted by the moss-capped rocks and woodland
hills that rose from the water's edge close on either side and
rolled away into mountains and volcanic peaks in the dis-
tance, the most jDrominent of which M'as Fusyaini, whose
snowy cone arose in grandeur aloft to the clouds, though
with ns it was a hot summer day.
As the bay opened, we were not less delighted by the
vegetation that covered the level valleys, and climbed away
in terraces far toward the summit of the hills and mountains,
between strips of forests left for fuel. Masts and spars lined
one side of the bay, and Yokohama was in view. Soon the
signal gun was fired, and the surrounding hills and mountains
echoed their prolonged salute. Slowdy our unwieldy, gigan-
tic vessel steered up among ships floating the flag ot various
nations, and while we were coming safely to anchor the
Chinese scattered gilded papers as offerings of gratitude to
their god.
The American consul with his red sash, and other gentle-
men were already on board to hear the news from far-off
America; also an occasional Japanese to change money or
sell strange curiosities ; while the Japanese boats, like buz-
zards, were hovering around, sculled by men who at each
stroke answered each other with barbaric sounds, like the
hissing of so many warlike ganders. Stretching their necks
upward they seemed to say, " Light down here and we will
paddle you safely to the shore."
Here and there European gentlemen, and an occasional
blushing lady who had not yet become familiar with Japanese
dress and customs, were taking boats for the shore ; yet
awhile we lingered, gazing and asking ourselves, "Are these
Japanese, and cau this be Japan, at last?"
CHAPTER Xin.
SIGHT-SEEi:sG IN JAPAK
WIIATEYER is novel in anything can be enjoyed but
once in a lifetime; upon a second view it vanishes.
Tlie broad ocean had a novelty all its own ; so when we found
ourselves in Japan, our surprise and astonishment was com-
plete. Nothing we had ever experienced seemed so strange
and unique.
We felt the very blood thrilling through our veins as we
stepped down the long ladder at the side of the vessel and
were rowed away in a rude skifi toward the shore, while we
watched the two oarsmen as though they were the inhabitants
of another sphere ; yet they looked as unconcerned as if they
had rowed their little boat here ever since these hills first
looked at each other across this bay. We paid them ten of
their oblong copper coins with great square holes in the
centers, worth about a cent each. At this they seemed highly
delighted, and we were afraid one of the poor fellows would
tear his gown with joy ; being long and unfastened in front,
it alternately covered and exposed his body with each swing
of the oar. The other one, if I remember correctly, had
none to tear. They claimed no interest in our welfare — no
dimes as mementoes ; but that, however, didn't lessen them
in our esteem.
As we stepped upon the rock-paved shore of the Old
World, every stone was charged with an electric thrill ; even
the air seemed fraught with the mysterious influences of the
past ages, causing the very hair to stand on our heads like
quills upon the fretful porcupine.
130
PLEASANT SCENES.
133
Next to the bay was a row of fine looking buildings, the
homes of Europeans. The most familiar object to our
American eyes was the Stars and Stripes, floating above the
fourth in the row. It shadowed the home of the American
Consul. A little farther on, another fl:ig designated the
office of the Pacitic Mail Steamers. Near by floated the
flag of England, above the home of the English Consul. As
we walked the length of this row of buildings, we admired
the curious tiled roofing, and the beauty and the elegance
of the marble imitation walls, displaying finely the art of
the Japanese in cementing. The yards were ornamented
with semi tropical plants, and they presented a somewhat
strange but pleasant scene.
"VYe next turned our course to the city. But our attention
was soon absorbed by the strange sights along the streets.
On one hand, rode a European on the trot or full gallop,
and just before him to clear the way ran a Japanese bettos,
his tattooed body and swift limbs covered with dragons, fish.
± FORE-RUNNER OF CIVILIZATION.
and figures of various shapes and colors. He accompanied
the rider to hold the horse and render general service. In
another direction a European gentlemen, or a gaily attired
lady or two, drove a low carriage which was drawn by a
Japanese pony. Beside the buzzing wheels ran a Japanese,
134
MUSICAL JAPANESE.
his gown trailing, waving in the wind, or swinging on his arm ;
and anon he jumped upon a seat at the back of the carriage
to rest like an intelligent "dorg" behind his fair mistress.
But hark ! from whence comes that wild barbaric noise, fill-
ing the air like the shrill war-whoop of the Indian. Have som6
of the natives with the most searching voices been employed
to awaken the ears of their god of the sun? The sound
TlIK GUKAT ORIENTAL EXPRESS.
neared, as up the street approached a great two-wheeled,
awkward dray, piled with boxes from the wharf, and pulled
and pushed by half-a-dozen or more broad shouldered, mus-
cular Japanese, who, keeping time at each step, strained their
terrific voices in proportion to the strain of their muscles.
When retui-ning, with no load, the flow of their ansAvering
tones, lia-ho-ha te-ho-ho ha-te-ho, was not unmusical. In
every direction the Japanese were going each with a bamboo
pole on his shoulder, to either end of which was swung
some kind of a burden, like a pair of scales.
Here and there passed those whose labor was not muscular.
Instead of being without shoes or simple grass-plaited sandals,
they had small stools three or four inches high, loosely fast-
ened to the bottoms of their feet, causing a nod and a clatter
at each step — not a bad institution, either, in wet weather.
ARE THEY MEN OR WOMEN ? 135
Wildair was puzzled to distingnisli the men from the women,
not being accustomed to seeing boys wear gowns np to the
tender age of twenty-one, and then conclude it was too late to
make a change, save to put on the suit of matrimony. With
us even this suit is often exchanged for the suit of divorce.
However, we soon learned to distinguish the fair sex, not
only by the paint on their cheeks, but by the flashy colors of
their attire, which they wrapped around their persons so closely
that from head to foot they appeared like diminutive lamp
posts. But it was comical to see such figures assuming the
Grecian bend on their stilted shoes ; such short, mincing
steps would have provoked a smile from Socrates.
When we observed a majority of the people passing bare-
headed we naturally supposed it was an economical dodge,
but after discovering that the men all bore the cost of shav-
ing the tops of their heads as clean as a plate, n)aking it
necessary to carry a fan or parasol to defend them from the
rays of the sun, we changed our minds. It occurred to me
that there was no discount on baldness here. We did not
entirely fancy the manner in which the rest of the hair was
brought back into a tail and daubed thickly with paste.
It is quite natural in Japan not to fancy a married lady,
her husband requiring her to blacken her teeth, pluck out her
eyebrows, and in short, to render herself sufficiently hideous
to repel all would-be admirers. I reckon she must have a
false set for home use. When Wildair derided these people
and called them a set of barbarians, I naturally halted
before a shop full of boxes of lacquered ware, whose beauty,
elegance and fineness of finish no other people on the globe
could equal, and exclaimed, " What barbarians ! how coarse in
their tastes! " Then in a few minutes he M-ould retaliate by
calling my attention to half-a-dozen coolies carrying a single
man swune: beneath a beam.
In order to lay the foundation stones of a canal we saw
them pumping out the water by means of rude wheels, one
above another, trodden by men ; while coolies were backing
the stone from the quarry some distance ofi.
9
136 ^ TEA PARTY.
*' See Caleb, these men turn themselves into pack mules."
"They go on the principle that eight men can do as much
work as one horse and eat no more rice ; therefore kill off the
horses, let men take their places, work for M'hat rice they
can eat — in short, replace the liorses with a more intelligent
breed. And you see it has already worked well in China,
for that country could not support such a dense population
if every man required four or five horses and a large farm
for his support."
" But please tell me why they don't transport these stones
on wheels instead of their shoulders, or use steam to elevate
this water; that wouldn't consume rice or anything men
could eat."
I scratched my head by way of reply and we walked on,
passing through a square full of men, women and even
children, sitting flat on their feet, selling fish and vegetables,
many kinds of which we had never seen before.
In the suburbs we ascended, by a long flight of steps, a
steep woodland hill where were tea-houses— simply a row of
sheds on either side covered with boards and boughs of trees,
under which were furnaces for heating the tea. The young
ladies stepped forward and saluted us "0-hi-o" (how are you),
offering us cups of the beverage. Just as I thought Wildair
was overcome with their politeness, I gave him a slight nudge
to brin*i- to his mind, " Barbarism." AVe drank our tea stand-
ing, in preference to sitting on our heels, after which we bade
them an unceremonious good-bye, and wandered leisurely
back into the city.
Presently we noticed three or four boys with hoods on
their heads, full of showy cock-feathers, who upon seeing our
attention called, suddenly spreading their hands and feet,
rolled sideways, as a wagon wheel, at rapid speed up and
down the street. Then two, splicing their bodies together,
their heads in opposite directions, revolved rapidly over and
over, striking on their feet. Again, one bending his body
backward crept between his own standing legs, with head,
hands and shoulders, until we were on the point of throwing
PAPER BUTTERFLIES.
187
down a penny and asking liim to turn himself wrong side
out, but were deterred by the unearthly crawfish thus creep-
ing towards us on all fours. Meanwhile, another was walk-
ing around grotesquely on his hands, his feet thrown back,
INDIA RUBBER BOYS.
catching himself under the chin. We supposed the boys
must have bodies constituted of whalebone and India-rubber,
yet we failed to see how a man could spin a top on the edge
of a sword, or on the limber end of a stick balanced on his
nose. But the most astonishing feat, was the flying of
paper butterflies, formed by twisting bits of paper into the
shape of these fairy insects, and setting them afloat in a still
air whose currents were controlled so perfectly by means of
fans that all the graceful movements of the living butterfly
were attained. Tlie dexterity of the performer caused two
of the mimic papilios to engage in innocent frolics and sports,
then alight upon the edge of flowers and nod as if to sip their
nectar sweetness.
138 THE SENSIBLE MIKADO.
"We finally partially compromised by agreeing that tlieir
civilization and ours might be contrasted but not compared.
As well attempt to compare an elegant and exquisitely finished
vase with Niagara Suspension Bridge ; or this Japanese who
by means of a fan could cause a paper butterfly to advance,
retreat, sip at flowers, and flit about as though alive, to
a Franklin flying his kite amid the fitful lightning.
If the best definition for progress is a locomotive, the
Japanese were surely starting on that road. They were lay-
ing a track for the Iron-Horse to connect Yokohama with
Yeddo, the bay being too shallow for the gigantic vessels to
ascend. It was completed in the beginning of October 1872.
The Mikado — who for centuries had been regarded as divine,
too sacred for the sun to shine upon his head, much less for
mortals to gaze upon — rode down on the cars, and appeared
before the foreigners and the vast public at the opening
ceremonies at Yokohama. It was a new era for Japan, and
vast multitudes thronged the ways leading to the city. Some
prostrated themselves with their faces to the ground, others
half bowed, while many were undecided what to do. They
were evidently afraid they would approach too near Mt.
Sinai or some other awful presence, and the gods would
thrust them through and through.
But the Mikado was sensible ; he wanted to have a drive
behind the locomotive, and see folks ; and I consider him
quite excusable in his desire. The roar and clatter of the
mighty engine on the road of progress, is waking up those
old sleeping monarchs who have been dreaming, ever dream-
ing, of their own divine origin and absolute right to rule
this lower world.
But think of these Japanese who had never dreamed of
the railway far away over the ocean ; to whom a man pulling
another on two wheels seemed a strange upstart. To them it
appeared according to the natural order of things that they
should carry travelers swung beneath poles from Yokohama
to Yeddo ; only think of these Jumping into houses with
Beats, and rolling away with the speed of lightning toward
A STRANGE UPSTART.
139
Yeddo. Who can imagine how it must have lifted their
souls out of their bodies, and transported them with joy
ineffable !
Does anybody know how they endured it ?
v /
MEW JAPAN.
CHAPTER XIY.
A COUNTRY BIDE TO YEDDO.
CRACK ! went the driver's whip above the heads of four
wicked original ponies, and we were ofi' at full speed,
with our tattooed runner, as swift as he was spotted, ahead
of us to clear the track, while the natives gazed at tlie
carriage as if trying to find out what kind of a creature was
passing by on four rolling feet. Soon a gathering cloud
discharged a torrent of water which flowed down the streets
and poured from both tiled and thatched roofs ; the occupants
of the open-front houses, with their friends seeking shelter
therein, who were reclining on the matted floors watching the
rain, gave themselves an extra stretch as we went by ; and
our runner who had taken refuge with us crouched on his
feet upon one of the seats.
" Look there Wildair, that's the way a dog sits to a t-y."
"You mistake; no dog doubles his hind feet backward
under him after that kind of style."
So I gave it up, and was about to rank him with tlie
elephant tribe, but discovered a serious difliculty — he had a
very short and stubbed nose. Soon the sun came out briglit
as ever, and he resumed his advanced position on the road.
We were now coming into the country, yet houses lined
either side of the way ; every half mile or so, an opening
between them showed a grassy path leading into a grove to
a wayside shrine, where the weary traveler is supposed to
stretch himself upon the grass, and pray.
Coming out into an open space where a cou.ple of rows of
140
SAFE MODE OF LULLABY. 141
sliade trees took the place of houses, around us was a broad
phiin, as level as the surface of a lake, covered by a carpet of
rice which hid the irrigating streams of water. "We seemed
to be crossing one individual farm, although there were
hundreds of distinct cultivators. Here and there bowed each
husbandman on his little plot of ground, carefully pulling out
every stray blade of grass. The tenants paid their feudal
lords half an average crop ; all they could raise above
that quantity was their own. No wonder each farmer
wanted but little ground so that he might cultivate it well,
since a poor crop left none for himself. In years of famine
the lords of the soil got rich, for rice was high. In years of
plenty the tenants made nothing but a living, for rice was
cheai\
Earthquakes -were so frequent in Japan that it was said
thev needed no cradles to rock their children in ; and though
we could see the contents of each house through the open
sides, we saw no cradles unless the houses themselves Mere
intended to answer that purpose. They were constructed of
four beams without braces — just the thing to rock and never
cease rocking from the end of one earthquake or typhoon to
another. This was a convenient and safe mode of lullaby
for young and old, as there were no upper stories to tumble
down and disturb the sleeper's rest.
The floors are all covered with straw matting, and an eleva-
ted portion thereof in the centre forms the bed, the lounge,
the table, the chairs, the desk, the counter — in short the
furniture of the room. Upon it sat the tailor on his curled
up feet, or the seamstress inlying her needle, or the spinstress
turniug her busy wheel, or the damsel playing her guitar
for the pleasure of her callers, who were also seated in this
unmentionable posture, while her mother, we supposed, was
in the kitchen. Upon this elevation sat the lady of taste and
industrv, painting the Japanese fans exported so extensively ;
and it was as often occupied by indolent jieople — the
mechanic Iving on his back with his head on his wooden
pillow waiting for a customer, or the whole of a half nude
142
OBLIGING DAMSELS.
family still resting their heads upon their -u-ooden bloclcs as
if they intended to sleep both day and night.
This elevation of the lloor being ctinsidered as tending to
degradation and as a promoter of laziness, has been recently
abolished by decree of the emperor, who proposes to make
his people sit npon chairs and quit taking it so easy.
The working man whom we saw treading down one end of
a lever tliat the other end might fall upon the unhulled rice,
at evening lay down upon the straw and enjoyed a good
night's sleep with but few cares to keep him awake. In a
NATIVE SWEETMEATS.
few years he will have a modern machine to thresh his grain
with, but will also have new wants to be supplied, — new
anxieties to disturb his rest.
While changing ponies we refreshed ourselves upon the
native sweetmeats. In the language of one who had traveled
this way before us, " the landlady and her damsels overbur-
AMERICAN INGRATITUDE.
143
dened us with their attentions, placing our chairs (for the
special accommodation of foreigners) in the most convenient
spot, wiping our shoes, placing cushions on our scats, and
anticipating every want." Cakes, soup, rice, and sweetmeats
were brought in succession. One laughing bright-eyed damsel
knelt before me with a cup of tea in her hand ; another in
the same position offered sugar, and a third, from her lowly
posture on the ground, held to my lips a boiled egg
already broken and peeled, and seasoned with salt. "With
garrulous vivacity they anticipated every look, and vied
in their endeavors to be the first to bring us their native
dainties. When our wants were supplied they remained
kneeling close to our sides.
But how w'as this kindness returned ? Let my own eyes
bear testimony to what they saw. Our genteel American
rORIIGN SACCE.
companion who moved in the highest circles at home, having
repeatedly insulted the ladies who brought us out tea at every
stopping place, now, with the sneaking crook of his umbrella,
tried to loop up the dress of one of these kind, genteel,
heathen ladies, who politely resisted his efforts. We felt
indignant, for he degraded our nation's honor in the sight of
144
A BATHING PARTY.
these people, and insulted every American citizen who loves
the fair fame of his country. We felt isdignant, for he
disgraced our sacred Christianity in the eyes of these natives.
Imagine what we would think and do if strangers, coming
among us and professing to be far above us in knowledge,
civilization and Christianity, conducted themselves in like
manner toward our sisters ! But if the Japanese or Chinese
resist by force the brutal conduct of the Europeans they have
to suffer. I say brutal, because we frequently saw them cufl'ed
and kicked about like dogs.
To us it seemed strange, yet natural that our runner, who
had forgotten his suit and left it at home, should make him-
self agreeable to all the girls, many of whom were pretty
and nicelj'^ dressed; at each tea-house they remembered him
with a cup of their beverage.
As we approached Yeddo, we were naturally on the look-
out, supposing it lawful to inspect everything we could see;
but involuntarily hid our eyes in our hands as we came
upon a party of young ladies who were bathing in a nice
A SMALL WATER-PARTY.
little door-yard in the shadow of the house. But we forgave
them ; they meant no harm, and ablution is part of their
religion.
o
>
>
p- i
o
o
o
IN THE GREAT CITY. 147
We had not the remotest idea wlien we came within the
limits of Yeddo; we simply knew that for mile after mile
the street became more thronged, until at last we could
confidently say, " We know we are in the Great City." We
imagined, from the crowds of persons of every age and sex,
that they were having a Fourth-of-July on a grand scale.
They may not have been, however, for we could discern no
loose tongued orator upon a stand, reciting the thrilling deeds
of their Washington. They only appeared to be enjoying
themselves in a social way. It is true they had music at
every corner ; but it was not the stirring martial tones of
brass bands, or fifes, or drums, nor even the singing of
"Hail Columbia" by a choir of young ladies and gentlemen.
The musicians reminded us more of organ grinders, but their
instruments were contemptible little things that seemed
squeaking their lives away, though eked out into an endless
string, causing misery to our sympathetic nerves.
By and by however we came to some great character. We
knew he was such by the thousand gilded ornaments and
trappings which dangled about him. He was not speaking
that we could hear, and had only been dead for two or three
thousand years. He had been their Washington, or Jeffer-
son, or some one else, who had achieved great victories
for them ; but he was a god now, and it was only his image
which they were bearing aloft upon their shoulders.
Arrived at Yeddo, we "put up" at a European hotel. It
was a large building, and a high one, wdiich seemed strange,
as the Japanese of every class never build high ones for their
own use. We finally concluded it was intended originally as
a trap to fall upon the heads of foreigners whose passj^ort
thither had been their gun boats.
The dinner hour was at 8 P. M., and the other meals were
correspondingly late. This did not exactly please us, as we
had l)een taught at home to imitate the birds at early retiring
and rising if we would be healthy, wealthy, and wise. But at
Yeddo, doing as other foreigners did, we imitated the owls,
and " late to bed and late to rise " was our motto while there.
us
THE INNOCENT FELLOW,
The table waiters, dressed in native gowns, were abundant
but very slow. An American accustomed to traveling by
rail could have swallowed two meals between dishes. Such
a gentleman evidently sat at one of the tables. After dis-
posing of the first course with amazing speed, he looked
around and found that the others had only fairly begun.
After sitting awhile in great suspense he discovered, to his
astonishment, that they had stopped eating while yet three-
fourths of the food remained upon their plates. Though he
still felt very hungry, he was just drawing back his chair
when along came waiters with new supplies. lie now
M'atched closely, through the corners of his eyes, the progress
of his neighbors, and at the end of the sixth course felt
himself to be master of the situation. Unluckily he now
espied some near him pouring fluids of various colors from
bottles, and, feeling thirsty, he reached for the nearest one
and helped himself to a glass of its contents. The gentleman
who had ordered and paid extra for the wine, looked some-
what puzzled, but said nothing as he saw that the innocent
f ello w was
only trying to
do as others
did. Finally
a bowl of
water was set
before him,
and as he
could see only
one use to put
it to he sent a
portion of it
after the wine.
That unsophisticated fellow was long a subject for conversation
with Wildair; he seemed to enjoy it, but I didn't.
On retirins: for the nijjht we found there was no lock on
the door to our room ; so "Wildair set the washstand against
it with bowl and pitcher thereupon. About the peep of day
DINNER AT TEDDO,
WILD AIR'S ENCOUNTER WITH BURGLARS.
149
t;vo or three of the numerous Japanese boot-Uaoking ser-
vants came round in search of their prey. Into ou room
they plunged, and over went the table with an awful crash.
The frightened AVildair, with revolver in hand, at once
bounded out of bed, and not discerning the mosquito-net
A BOOTLESS VISIT.
carried it with him. At this apparition the astonished
servants forgot their boots ; and the accidental discharge of
the pistol brought Wildair to his wits and a crowd to the
scene of action :
""What's the matter?" demanded the landlord.
" Burglars ! Burglars ; don't you see how they burst into
our room ? " replied the crest-fallen Wildair.
" I see this smashed jiitcher."
" Well, that was them, and I was after — "
" Whose boots are these ? "
"Mine."
" Next time set them outside the door."
""Well, I guess I will," scratching his head; and the
landlord walked away.
CHAPTER XY.
THEOUGH THE TEMPLES.
WE found Yeddo to be a vast city of almost indefinite
extent. Now we wandered where thousands compactly
lived and moved ; then, with a suddenness that was surprising,
we seemed lost in forests dense and wild where no sounds
were heard save the screeching of owls, the cawing of crows,
or some otlier doleful solitary cries. In one of these places
we visited the imposing tombs of the Tycoon Dynasty, over-
thrown a few years since after a rule of more than three
hundred 3'ears.
While the wild birds in their lonely hours were cawing
their solemn dirges in this dreary retreat, we went from tomb
to tomb and from temple to temple, each surrounded by
mossy walls running through undergrowth so dense the eye
could not penetrate its shades. The priests opened the
massive sates beneath loftv arches, and as we entered these
secluded regions they bowed their shaved heads to us, then
conducted us across the paved courts to the doors of the
temples, where they pulled off their shoes or sandals and
motioned for us to do likewise. The altars were tastily
and pompously ornamented, and every part thereof could be
traced into the graceful shape of some animal or plant, while
the whole shone as burnished gold. On the walls of one of
the temples were frescoed various hinds of birds in life-
colored plumage ; and we imagined the winged tribes Avere
ardently loved by the Tycoon there buried. In another were
bows, arrows, hunting implements and animals, suggesting
that a mighty hunter there reposed.
150
THE SOLEMN' CEREMONY.
151
In one temple the priest with great solemnity, conducted
ns up spacious steps sliining as a looking-glass. As he
approaclied the altar we knew from his step he was nearing
some sacred presence. Soon we discovered the august
object. It was a monstrous bronze turtle upon whose back
stood a gilded bird, with legs as long as those of the cranes
I used to shoot for eating the corn and leaving us the cobs.
BEFORE THE HIGH AND MIGHTY.
"Wildair had once in his life, when in swimming, been bitten
by an uncouth turtle so that he was no friend of that animal.
Just then the sober priest with great veneration and solemn
dignity prostrated his sacred person before the crane and turtle,
kissed the floor, and motioned for us to join in the devotion ;
as we failed to do so and showed unmistakable signs of mer-
riment the priest doubtless thought our veneration had been
sadly neglected ; while we thought the crane might have
traveled faster without riding.
Down the capacious avenue shaded by rows of majestic
152 THE DESERTED PALACE,
trees, used to come the solemn royal procession to this
imperial cemetery, from the now deserted Tycoon's palace.
The walled terraces and broad moats of that palace still testify
to the security of its position in former days when it was
defended by swords ; but it could make but trifling resistance
to cannon, or even to the American rifles which we saw in
the hands of the Japanese soldiers drilling in the palace
grounds. Near by were the capacious grounds and palaces of
the provincial princes, who were formerly required to live in
the capital much of the time as hostages for the good behavior
of their provinces. It was their traveling to and from the
capital with vast retinues of retainers, that for centuries
made it such a great centre and the Yokaido along which we
rode to Yeddo such an important thoroughfare. Their two-
sworded retainers were still around the half deserted palaces
of their lords, looking with suspicion upon foreigners and
on the soldiers drilling with rifles.
But there was one thing I loved in the Japanese, and that
was their ardent admiration of nature — it arose to a passion.
They possessed what I deem the prettiest country in the
world, embracing from four to six thousand islands standing
out of the ocean in moss covered rocks and snow-capped
mountains, hiding an infinite number of woodland glens and
dales decked in foliage of surpassing beauty. No wonder
thev seldom emigrate. But not satisfied Avith this affluence
of beauty they helped nature into new forms. In dwarfing
they excelled all other nations. We saw vases containing
various kinds of trees which appeared to be as old as any in
the woods, yet not so lofty as Tom Thumb. Ha, ha. Giant
Tom with head above the forest trees ! " The Big Trees" of
California were yet in our minds, as we contemplated a
bamboo, a fir, and a blooming plum tree, all growing in a
box one might carry in the upper story of his liat. As a
contrast the growth of others was so stimulated that their
branches extended to a great distance supported upon props,
while strangely worn stones and pebbles were piled in such
positions as to present in appearance the bottom and moss-
I
A NEW INVENTION.
155
covered banks of streams, as if nature had been at work
destroying and restoring for ages.
It seemed strange to see these human beings who were
competent to teach us many things, taking the place of horses
between the shafts. As I saw their manly forms as they
drew us along, and witnessed their noble exertions, 1 looked
back at "VVildair and wept. I thought they were our brothers,
the work of whose hands we admired but could not equal ;
our brothers, whose hearts knew the warmest and sincerest
friendship. As they warmed up with the exercise, they
dropped their thin gowns lower and lower down, and finally
removed them entirely. My steed was not as large as Wil-
dair's ; yet with commendable pride he was bound not to be
outdone in speed or endurance, and the latter was something
THE LATEST INNOVATION.
wonderful. The two-wheeled cart was of new invention, a
grand step on the road of progress. Frequently we whizzed
by those still riding in the old slow style in a cramped
position swung beneath a pole borne on the shoulders of two
coolies, who carried props in their hands to hold up the pole
when they rested.
When we told our horses (for we did not guide them with
reins) to take us to Asaksa Kanou, they first ran home to
procure a few small coins to throw upon the altar, for they
10
156
UXnOXORED AND UXKXOWX.
did not feel like worshiping without a sacrifice. "We found
this to be the principal temple of Yeddo, but no aristocratic
churcli where pews are sold. Here rich and poor alike might
worship. Under its vast outer and inner arches ever came
and went the thronging multitudes, among whom were
pilgrims from the remotest parts of Japan. As they
approached the altar they threw their oiFerings toward the
altar, and as the coins went jingling down from apartment
to apartment, they fell upon their knees, folded their arms,
and muttered their short prayers. Sometimes half a dozen
were bowed at once. It was easy to tell by their countenances
those who were in earnest. Some bowed and said tlieir
prayers in a hurried ceremonial way. I noticed one poor
lame woman who seemed to have traveled a long distance,
coming across the broad
pavement in front of the
temple. She rested twice
upon her stair', and there
was a tired but earnest
expression on lier ilxce.
Perhaps she had been
praying or struggling long
at home, and had come
here to unburden her soul.
As she approached slie
dropped in three little
coins, doubtless all she
had, and clapped lier
liands as she fell upon her
knees, and turning h e r
eyes toward heaven she
worked her lips as if
whispering her sorrows
into the ear of Ilim who
lieareth every inward moan. She continued long with
clinched hands as though unwilling to leave, and then went
her way unhonorcd and unknown until the Great Day when
TUK WIDOW S MITE.
GOD OF THE SMOKERS. I57
many whom the Master knows will come from the East and
the West and sit down in the Kinf^dom.
"Within the capacious altar sat shaven-crowned • prie?ts
vowed to celibacy, chanting in an unknown tongue their
ritual of worship, which was answered by others. In their
monasterial cells some sat muttering their formal prayers,
one for each bead in their rosary. Here was one distributing
prayers on pieces of paper, which possessed great merit
because they had come through the hands of persons devoted
to religion. Some of these prayers were for souls in an
intermediate state. Occasionally the priests marched in
procession to tinkling bells, or moved in their loni; gowns
about the distant altars among the smoking incense sticks, or
adjusted the candles so as to reflect the glitter of the images.
Outside the enclosure of the altar were pictures of ghastly
figures — writhing men, and tormenting spirits, which seemed
intended to frighten visitors to implore the gods of mere}'.
The sinner, as he approached the altar, appeased the wrath of
the gods by burning incense. Each one passing dropped a
little coin, picked up a pinch of some kind of herb looking
like tobacco, and dropped it down the mouth of a horrible
image, and in the smoke which rolled out of his mouth and
nostrils the evil spirits of the worshiper ascended. I took it
to represent the devil ; but "Wildair called it the Smoking
God, or the God of the Smokers, and naturallv enoujrh he
was one of the most popular gods there. I should not
wonder if many worshiped him as such, for religion was
awfully mixed. Everybod}^ had a god to suit Lis own fanc3\
But there was another image whose name or attributes
could not be mistaken even by strangers. It was the Goddess
of Mercy. She had no marks of distinction, no glitter of
gold or pearls ; but in places the image was much worn by
the simple contact of hands that were afterwards laid on cor-
responding portions of their own bodies, or the bodies of
children. Whether any limbs were made whole thereby or
any diseases cured I cannot say, for her work was silent ;
all I know is that crowds came with apparently as much faith
158
GODDESS OF MERCY.
in her ability to relieve them, as those had who in earlier
times strove to touch the hem of Christ's garment. They
called her the " Queen of Heaven," the same appellation as
is applied to the " "Virgin Mary."
Three centuries ago Japan was almost a Christian nation,
TOUCH AND BE HEALED.
so forcibly did the wonderful story of the cross impress them.
St. Francis Xavier, the great apostle of the Indies, was the
first missionary to Japan. His spirit had caught the apostolic
fire, and he hastened thither with the first merchant vessels.
The Japanese have a warm, passionate nature, and could this
missionary have stood on their mountains, and sounded out
the glad and stirring news with an untiring tongue, they
would have experienced a Pentecost on a grand scale — a
nation would have been born in a dav. He soon died from
self-exertions and hardships, but still the glad tidings spread,
and multitudes were converted and baptized — twelve thous-
and in two years. But soon the tide turned ; they saw enough
of foreigners to note many shortcomings and rascalities, and
JAPANESE EXILES. I59
naturally wondered that Christianity as preached to them did
not bring forth better fruits. The vessels which visited
Japan went armed, and not unfrequently some turned pirates.
No wonder such actions changed the feelings of the natives
from love to hatred. About this time the Great Tycoon
asked a Spaniard : —
" How is it that your king has managed to possess himself
of half the world ? " The unwise but true reply was : —
"He sends priests to win the people; his trocpi are then
sent to join the native Christians, and the conquest is easy."
The result was an edict banishing the priests. Twenty-
three were put to death in a single day at Nagasaki. But
the government had a Herculean task. Although the native
Christians were butchered and massacred year after year, and
foreigners excluded, yet there are thousands of them still left.
About the time we were there nearly a thousand men, the
heads of families, were exiled from the sight of the world
to work in mines and dismal pits.
Many people speak of all heathen profession in a light
manner, but it either arises from ignorance or arrogance.
Some missionaries go to them with the idea that all their
doctrines, beliefs, and faiths, must be overturned ; but nothing
can be more erroneous. "What is good in them — has that to
be overthrown ? By attempting such a course their indigna-
tion is naturally forever aroused, for many of the doctrines
of their philosophers and religious teachers would hardly
disgrace the most sublime and sacred pages of the Bible.
CHAPTER XYL
SOCIAL PROGKESS IN JAPAN.
AMONG our friends in Yeddo were a young married
couple with whom we had become intimate during our
Pacific voyage. The bridegroom had resided in Japan before,
and becoming weary of a bacliclor's life had returned to
America for the girl he left behind him. Certainly, he had
no cause to regret doing so. It seemed strange to us that so
many Europeans should here pass away their lives as lonely
bachelors, or purchase native wives, when lovely creatures of
their own race can be obtained so easily. The bride's modest
cheeks were just becoming accustomed to native scenes.
"What a contrast between her and the fat water-carrier of the
hotel whose chief garment was an old European vest which
he wore more for ornament than use, and of which he seemed
very proud.
About the time the Pilgrim Fathers landed their little
bark on the savage New England shore, Japan drew herself
into her shell to enjoy alone her superior civilization and
refinement handed down from the dreamy past. Years slowly
numbered into centuries during which, to Japan, the outside
world seemed like a dream fast fading. But one bright
afternoon, up Yeddo Bay came the Stars and Stripes
floating above a squadron of screeching gun-boats. As the
boom of the saluting cannon shook the surrounding moun-
tains, it sent a thiill of mingled amazement and horror through
the country and awakened the emjieror in his seclusion.
Startled, he learned that an embassy had arrived from some
IGO
COMMODORE PERRY'S VISIT.
161
nation that had sprunp; up like a inusliroom in an unknown
quarter of the world. lie turned to the history of his country
and read how the Portuguese, three centuries before, had
come to these shores and sold foreign articles at enormous
GETTING USED TO IT.
prices; bought up their vast treasures of gold with silver;
secretly conspired against their government ; and how the
Japanese finally drove the invaders away witli sharp steel.
He now asked : — " "Who are these American foreigners
demanding intercourse? — and was about to say, "No, no!
get away; let us alone;" but as he turned his eyes toward
the stranger fleet, each vessel he saw seemed to wear a frown-
ing aspect, and thereupon he reluctantly said, " Yes." But
no sooner were they gone than .the English fleet came and
made similar demands; then the French, the German, the
Ilussian ; and before he had time to consider, the United
States were renewing their demands for trade and intercourse.
Less than twenty years have elapsed since our fii'st treaty
162
WILDAIR'S EXTERTAIXMEXT.
with the Japanese was effected by Commodore Perry, yet no
other people on the globe are to-day more eager to introduce
our modern improvements than they. Fire arms are particu-
larly interesting to them and many thousands have already been
imported. Foreigners have been hired to teach them military
drill, for which they show a decided taste; and evenWildair
■WILDAIRS WARRIORS.
was one day importuned to act in that capacit}', and evoked the
applause of an admiring crowd by the masterly way in which
he handled his file of incipient warriors.
After the drill was concluded, Wildair entertained a crowd
who had gathered around us, by showing them pictures of
Japanese in a guide-book we had brought with ns. They
looked at each other and laughed ; then at the pictures
again, and manifested much delight at the thought that they
had a place in American books and literature. "We then
showed them a map of the world and pointed out the relative
position of the United States and Japan, and thereby greatly
enlarged their ideas of geography.
Although this is an age of startling events, yet such prog-
ress in civilization as the Japanese are making had never
been dreamed of. Their school system has been adopted after
PROGRESS OF CIVILIZATION.
1C3
the most careful examination of our educational system and
that of other nations, and covers every f^rade from the college
to the common school, being expressly intended to beneiit
every child, rich or poor, male and female. The press, yet
WILDAIR AS A GEOGRAPHER.
in its infancy, has begun its \rork of scattering the news of
the empire and of the world to the masse?, who can generally
read. The liberty of the press is now a reality, and already
public sentiment is being formed which will soon prepare the
people for voting, at which time they are to have a voice in
the government. Railroad lines, telegraph wires, and mail
routes are being established throughout the country. How
wonderful the Providence that has possessed the minds of the
feudal princes with such a love of our institutions as to cause
them to lay down their regal powers, untold wealth, and
separate armies, through pure love for their country, abdicate
the birthright of twenty centuries, to make themselves citizens
bv the side of their serfs who had never known or dreamed
of anv thins; but service ! AVhen we were there many of the
princes yet retained their territories nominally, and their two-
sworded soldiers, but shortly after these were all nobly sur-
rendered. "We saw many soldiers or retainers still wearing
1G4
DOWNFALL OF THE ARISTOCEACY.
their two swords wanderin;^ about idly, hardlj knowing what
to do now that their masters and support were gone. They
were born soldiers and knew nothing else. It was curious to
see many of the little boys of this class still wearing their
diminutive swords ; but the little fellows would soon have to
throw them aside and earn their own living. We saw on
one occasion a party of boys of this rank playing "blind
SOCIAL EQUALITY ILLLSTKATLD.
man's buff," and were glad to notice that two boys of a lower
grade — one with only one sword and the other with none at
all— had ventured to join them; for it foretold the downfall
of the military aristocracy. The two swords that have been
in families for hundreds of years are being thrown aside ;
even the regular soldiers, policemen, and government officials,
carry our arms and wear French uniforms.
To see how fully aristocracy and castes have been swept
away, I need only to state that the Mikado, who from the time
of the gods has lived in divine soclusion, never eating twice
from the same dish, and never leaving his seclusion excepting
in a closely curtained cart drawn by snow-white bullocks, has
lately visited the despised tanners who were below ail castes,
and revoked the stigma. More, he has even received Euro-
pean ladies and taken them by the hand.
The government has recently ordered the adoption of our
A NEW HOLIDAY.
165
Christian Sabbath as a day of rest to take the place of irreg-
ular holidays; instead of twelve hours the day is to have
twenty-four ; our months take the place of the Chinese
hobgoblin lunar months ; the year is to begin with the Urst
day of January, and Christnuis is to be observed as a holiday
in memory of their first emperor, whom they hold as divine.
OLD JAPAN.
CHAPTER XVIT.
FEOM JAPAN TO CHINA.
IT was soutb-westerly along the coast of Japan that we two
pilgrims were sailing. To us, there was something attract
ive in the white-sailed fishing junks of these good natiired
rascals of the island, as they floated among the high rocky-
promontories of the coast ; in the mountains cultivated in
terraces almost to the summit of the highest peaks, and in the
whole country, mountains and valleys, so beautifully green.
Occasionally we met a ship, or beheld one in the distance,
whose full, white sails looked as robes dropped from heaven
upon the waters, but were only wafting cargoes of tea, for
American speculators. As we passed a fortification several
miles away, the Japanese flag was seen ascending and descend-
ing a pole, while the American flag at the stern of our vessel
gracefully glided up and down its standard, and thus the two
governments which they represented saluted each other.
One afternoon, when wo were near the southern part of
Japan, we passed a strait, then another one, where the land
divided, and the channels of the water wound around the
bases of mountains. Towards sunset and till night began to
throw her shady mantle about us, the scene was almost enchant-
ing. "We were sailing between the mainland of the island on
our right, and a number of small islands at our left, sometimes
shut in between high walls, and again obtaining views of
the volcanic islands to the south as they rose one after another
far as the eye could reach like peaks and light-houses from
the bosom of the ocean. Around the summit of one close bv,
1G6
FATE OF THE PIRATES.
107
the smoke was lioveriiig densely, while occasionally a blaze
shot up, scattering its rays over the heads of other volcanic
peaks, ■which now lay slumbering in the broad ocean till
again aroused by the iiery elements beneath.
The dark bases of these peaks seemed a fitting abode for
malignant beings ; and it is here that pirates hold their
nightly carnivals. They watch for their prey as the hyena
TUE PIRATES DOOM.
for the wounded deer, and attack every vessel which is wrecked
or becalmed within their reach.
We were told that a sailing vessel, delayed by a calm not
long previous, was stealthily approached by these pirates, who
threw a burning substance upon the vessel, the smoke of
which choked and stupefied the crew. Then the pirates
boarded the vessel, killed all within, and carried off the cargo.
A man-of-war hearing the news, sailed for the place, having
first taken in her guns and painted her ports to indicate that
she was a merchant vessel. Upon arriving she raised a
signal of distress, and all parties went below. Soon the pirates
1C8 CHINESE FISHERMEN'.
cautiously approached. "When close by, the crew ran on deck
and opened fire upon the surprised wretches, killed 6everal,and
captured the rest, nearly all of whom were afterwards hung.
As the eastern coast of Asia is frequently visited by typhoons
at the time of year we were sailing over its waters, the passen-
gers were frightened at every change of the weather. Only a
few days before, one of these terrible storms had visited the
shores near Nagasaki, wrecking several vessels, and landing
one or two high upon the beach. When a vessel is caught in
the centre of one of these hurricanes its destruction is almost
inevitable. The storms are occasioned by the change of the
monsoons, which blow six months from one direction, then six
months from the opposite. At the time of year this change
takes place, there is a shifting of the winds, which sometimes
blow from different directions towards one centre, soon begin-
ning the whirl that terminates in the typhoon, the dread of the
mariner.
As we n eared the coast of China we passed thousands of
small fishing crafts with their little sails. The inmates were
naked like so many barbarians, yet they all retained their
braided queues. As they shifted their sails to get out of our
way, they looked up in surprise, and I fancied with awe. The
Chinese returning home on our vessel were now allowed to
come on the hurricane deck to look at the fishermen, and
behold again the shores of their native land. Seemingly they
were much delighted as they gazed around, yet might they as
well have hunted for a lost pebble upon the sea-shore as looked
for an acquaintance among these thousands who to us appeared
as near alike as so many peas. Toward evening there were
indicationsof a typhoon, and a hurrying shoreward of the fish-
ermen, near and far. IIow their sails bent before the wind, and
their small boats keeled far over on their sides as they mounted
the waves, and again disappeared in the hollows of the sea.
But the expected typhoon did not come off, much to our disap-
pointment.
One morning as the sun arose from the bosom of the Pacific,
we were entering a channel between the British island of
WE TATROXIZE THE FAIR SEX. 169
Ilong Kong and Oriental China, with rock-ribbed hills stand-
ing hi<;h up on either hand. Soon the city of Ilong Kong
appeared in view, its streets rising conspicuously one above the
other on the mountain side. The signal gun was lired, and we
were soon dropping anchor in the middle of the channel
among vessels whose flags represented many nationalities,
while hundred of sampans, small boats ten or twelve feet
long by three or four in width, in which whole families passed
their whole existence, were paddling here and there through
the water, and swarming about our vessel. Their inmates
looked anxiously up at us, making signs, and jabbering in
broken China, to impress it upon us that we ought to go ashore,
and that they wanted to do the job for ns. So we accepted the
solicitations of a couple of sprightly looking girls who had an
oldish looking mother and three or four small brothers and
sisters to support. They took hold of our arms, helped us
into their sampan, showed us to the best seat, and ]iaddled
us ashore. IIow they paddled, and how the mother and
children smiled — for they expected something with which to
buy a dinner. AVe had been told the customary price by the
officers of our vessel, and paid them about twice that amount,
but still they wanted more. So we gave them a little moi-e;
yet they were not satisfied, and followed us ashore. AVe
desired to be liberal, especially toward girls — but it would
not do ; w-e must blu£E them off, else they would follow us all
day.
However, in a moment after we reached the shore tliat
was done most effectually by other parties. The males, with
chairs to carry us to the hotel, swarmed around like bees,
pushing and scramblirig; the girls were crowded l)ack to their
boat, while we would have prayed, had it been of any use, to
have been again cared for by them, instead of this rabble that
wanted to shove us into a hundred different chairs at once.
Luckily we succeeded at last in getting into only two of them,
and were carried a short distance up a crowded street to the
hotel.
CHAPTER XYIII.
ADYENTUEES m HONG KONG.
WERE I a Chinaman, I would vote to keep all foreigners
out of my country ; for they must be a constant remind-
er to the Chinese that they were somehow neglected when
their turn came to be created. Perhaps some journeymen had
the job when all the best talent was on a strike ; this is the
only way I can account for the existence on this earth of
some 450,000,000 moral vacuums, at least 90 per cent of
whom are striving in their own benighted way, to determine
how small an amount of nutritious aliment is necessary to
support a given bulk of animated matter. Not unfrequently
they shave the thing a little too close; then the solids give
way, and a " Celestial " fungus is erased. They began 4,000
years ago to speculate about what reason there was for tlieir
existence, and what was to become of them wlien they ceased
to be an incumbrance to this earth ; and their foremost philos-
ophers came to the conclusion that they were mere excres-
cences on this mundane sphere ; they sprang up, flourished,
departed, and that was the last of them. And it is to be
sincerely hoped they were correct if they carry into the next
world many of the traits of character they liave in this.
But there were some things in China which we liked, and
among them were rides in the chairs. Our first excursion
by that mode of conveyance was to the Government Gardens,
and it was one of the most memorable. We jumped into a
couple of chairs whose owners looked sprightly, to contribute
our quota of polish to their bamboo contrivances, some of
170
AN EXCURSION.
173
which seemed to hare survived the rack of centuries. When
we desired to turn to the right, we tapped with one Land
on the right pole, when to tlie left, on the left pole, and
a tap on both poles at the same time was equivalent to saying
"Whoa." We met other foreigners in chairs talcing it as
hizily as we, as they were carried along by their panting
fellowmen, some smoking or reading newspapers; or perhaps
two abreast— usually a lady and gentleman — were talking with
each other as they traveled along. I think this style of riding
would not aiford the best accommodations for a couple of
lovers. We also met some of the wealthier class of the Chinese
who rode in the same style. In fact it is a very pleasant way
of riding, if one can keep it out of mind that he is making a
horse of his fellowman.
As the day was warm we bought a couple of great hats
made of pith and covered with white satin. They looked
STARTING UP THK LKADER.
like immense white turtle shells, and were so arranged by
bands and braces as to keep them from touching the head ;
the air circulated beneath, and was cooling to the brain.
With these generalissimo hats Caleb looked heroic, and I
felt just as he looked, and proposed that we should have a
race. To increase the speed of my team, I first swung my
11
174: EXGLISH CONVICTS.
handkercliief at them, which produced but little effect, as
they did not know exactly what it meant and were some-
what frightetied. I now shouted at them, which proved too
much for the sensitive ears of the leader, who immediately
dropped his end of the shufts and ran off. This change in
the programme I had not anticipated ; Caleb thought I might
have had more sense, but still enjoyed my disaster. A few
kind words from him brought my chairman again into the
traces, and at a fast walk we proceeded on.
We now passed among tropical trees and foliage, along
winding roads running between yards whose limits were well
defined by cuttings in the side of the hill walled up by rock.
Rising above these walls, yards of rolling green reached on to
stately mansions owned by foreigners of wealth, and beyond
these were the Government Gardens. They were very attrac-
tive indeed abounding in the richest flowers, shrubbery, trees
and paths winding among shady nooks.
Just outside of the Gardens we espied a long string of
English convicts, who were handcuffed, and watched over
while at work on the road by Indiamen and men from other
southern climes, almost as dark as Africans. I once had an
idea that all English evil-doers were transported to Yan Die-
man's Land or Australia, but like many other of my juvenile
fancies it has been dispelled. Here in this great city where
labor is so cheap that men perform the work of oxen on
account of economy, the British Government finds it to its
interest to send whole gangs of these convicts to work the
public roads and build stately edifices dedicated mostly to
mammon, — for what could induce the noble Briton to forsake
the island of his idolatry, with its proverbial " roast beef
and plenty," but the allurements of a more tangible god?
One could scarcely believe but what these self -exiled English
were the upper class of the Chinese, separated alike by
their wealth and inclination from the common herd. Contact
with the western nations has in turn sunk these heathens,
whose sole claim to enlightenment seems to be a power
of imitating every vicious habit, and ignoring every moral
CHINESE WASHERMEX.
175
principle, into depths of depravity, of which in their seclusion
they never would have dreamed.
On our way back to the city we saw an army of washer-
men standing in a brook and beating the clothes they were
washing against the stones, many of which, from continued
use, were half worn away. Frequentlj' after that, not only
in China, but also in India, we understood full well how
it happened that our shirts buttons came home in halves,
and sometimes not at alh
«
At one time the chairmen were carrying ns with the poles
A DOWN (iRADK.
on their shoulders, as was more customary than in tlie hands.
Thought I : " They played a nice trick on me as we were
coming up, but now I have them — they can't let me down,
and run off." Caleb was a little in advance of me, and as it
was a down grade I thought it would be a good time to overtake
him. So I again swung my handkerchief, shouted ' ' Hip, hip,
hurrah," and very imprudently kicked at the leader. The con-
sequent acceleration of his speed was all I could have desired.
"We flew rather than ran, and quickly passed our companions.
But at that instant my lead horse stumbled, and went sprawling
176 OUR CHAIRMAN'S REVENGE.
upon the ground — headforemost I tumbled upon him. As I
struck, smash went my '■^ generalissimo^^ hat ; it was forever
ruined. As the frightened Chinaman was scrambling from
under me, Caleb condoled me by saying : —
"It's good enough for your foolhardiness."
"Foolliardiness," I replied, "why didn't you catch them?
The rascals were running away with me."
I was now somewhat recalled to a sense of mv situation. I
must reconcile the fellow or walk back to the hotel. So I
said," My friend, I fear you have mistaken my nervous anxiety
for personal violence directed toward you ; nothing of the
sort was intended, I assure you ; and as an earnest of my good
feelings I here tender you a token of her Majesty Yictoria
Kegina, value one shilling," — and threw him a coin. There-
upon he returned to his duties but kept an eye on me for the
balance of the trip.
"When again in the city we stopped at two or three shops
to buy some curiosities. Upon pricing them, I thought they
were qiiite dear. However, I bought two or three articles,
but soon found I had been terribly taken in. Every time we
started to leave, they lowered their prices, until by degrees
they had fallen to about one fifth of what they had first
asked. It was so in regard to a certain beautifully carved
ivory card case which was fairly worth two or three dollars.
I felt somewhat vexed, and pulling out a brass coin worth
about one eighth of a cent, offered that for it. As a general
thing the Chinese countenance is dull, and void of expression ;
but this Chinaman rolled up his oblique eyes, stared at me in
astonishment, muttered something in Chinese, seized his card
case and put it away, while we walked out.
Upon our return to the hotel we paid our chairmen fifty
cents for each chair, which was good pay for them, yet they
were dissatisfied, and my leader afterwards took delight in
revenging himself on us, and especially on me. "VThenevcr we
walked the streets, he was sure to meet us, and to throw off
his pigeon-English sarcasm, " American walk ! American
walk ! Coole ! Coole ! " At the same time, he would have been
very glad to have carried us again.
AN UNCHARITABLE LANDLORD.
177
"Whenever vre started out for a stroll, it "was almost impos-
Bible to get through the crowd of chairmen who hovered
around the door. All through the city, " Chair ! Chair !"
continually greeted us. As but few foreigners walked, they
thought surely we should not, and blocked our way at times
until we were obliged to treat them like dogs.
One morning as we were upon the portico of the second
floor, these chairmen so obstructed the door of the hotel
that the landlord came out with a club, apparently frantic
with rage, and made an indiscriminate attack upon them.
Some tumbled headforemost over their chairs, and came
sprawling upon the ground ; the rest shot off like rockets, a
hundred pig-tails streaming in the air. Then the landlord
kicked and knocked the deserted chairs about till he was
exhausted, and returned triumDhant from the field.
ABATING A NDXSAJsCt.
CHAPTER XIX.
MOEE ADYENTURES IN HONG KONG.
CALEB is a pliilosopber, and feels that everyone should
have something like his proportion of this world's goods;
and whenever he sees one of his fellowmen worse off than
himself, the first thing which suggests itself is an attempt to
restore the equilibrium. On one occasion a beggar, without
any special claim to distinction, asked an aim and of course
got it. The consequence of. Caleb's rashness was that we
were obliged to leave Hong Kong sooner than we had antici-
pated, for a report soon got around that two American trav-
elers of unbounded wealth and generosity were in the city,
and our peace of mind was at once destroyed. Wherever
we went, beggars thronged around us.
"When a Chinaman of the lower class is not working,
or smoking, or begging, he is gaml)ling. Sometimes this
assumes the form of a cheap lottery ; but far oftener small
groups might be seen sitting on the floors or pavements with
little piles of money besides them, from which they slapped
down one or two small coins, the ownership of which was after-
wards decided by the throwing of dice. The dice boxes used
on these occasions are owned and shaken by an outside party
who receives a certain commission on all sums won.
The Chinese generally smoke tobacco in a pipe, but are
beginning to learn to use cigars ; as yet they have not learned
to chew. When an aristocratic Chinaman assumes airs in
the way of ventilating a smoking engine he does the thing
properly. He procures a furnace to which he attaches a pipe
178
THE CURSE OF THE COUNTRY.
179
that reaches from the floor to his mouth. Having filled the
boiler beneath the furnace with cold M-ater, he puts a small
pinch of cut tobacco in the furnace with one hand, and with
the other applies a stick of slow-burning pith to the fuel.
After taking a deep in-
lialation he adjusts a tube
which changes the current
of air, and blows out the
whole contents of the fur-
nace, although yet barely
ignited. As the smoke is
curlinij from his mouth
and nostrils he arranges his
apparatus a second time,
and so continues, never
taking but a single puff at
each firing up of his en-
gine.
The " opium smoking
houses" are found all over
China, and are the curse
of the country. At our
first visit to one of them,
we beheld a well-dressed lady sitting close to her husband who
lay upon a " kang." There were unmistakable evidences of
sadness in her countenance, and well there might be, for this
was the commencement of her sorrows. Her husband had
entered here on several former occasions, but on the previous
evening he had inhaled the poisonous drug more freely than
ever before. It had worked its customary result, and he lay
all night stupid, in fact insensible, and in the morning she
had gone in search of him to find him in this horrible den.
She well knew that it would not stop here; that it was as the
first glass to the drunkard's lips, and it was all she could do
to refrain from sobbing.
We visited several of these places and were horrified and
disgusted by what we saw therein. Some of the inmates sit
OAMBLINQ.
180
OPIUM SMOKING.
upon the floors or counters and stare at ns, while others lie
senseless, or are too far overcome by the drug to take any
notice of strangers.
Some are preparing the opium for their pipes by means
THE FAITHFUL WIFE.
of small iron wires, one end of which they heat in a lamp
burning near at hand. "When the wire is liotthey put it into
the opium gum, twist on a little lump, convey it to the lamp,
heat it until it swells and begins to run down, but keeping
it on the wire by means of whirling it about. When properly
heated, they run the end of the wire into a small hole in
the bowl of the pipe. As the opium cools it sticks to the
bowl, enabling them to draw the wire out by giving it a quick
twist, leaving a hole in the opium through which to draw the
smoke. Kow they lie down upon the matted floor beside the
lamp, put the pipe to the blaze, and puff away. For a few
moments it seems to exhilarate, though scarcely noticeable ;
then follows a quiet languor. Still remaining upon their sides,
they adjust the opium a little, probably pusliing another hole
through it into the bowl of the pipe. In fifteen or twenty
minutes they are ready for a fresh supply.
By the time two or three pipes are smoked, and occasion-
ally sooner, they begin to lose all activity. It seems to benumb
mrORTATIOX OF OPIUM. 181
the sensibilities, and take away all life, and they lie ap-
parently lifeless. Those that are habitual smokers be-
come enervated in both body and mind — their limbs are
withered, their ankles and wrists appear like pipe stems, their
eyes are sunken, and their features pale and ghastly. Ilcre
they lie, their lungs having become so completely saturated
with smoke that it comes curling out at their nostrils for
some time after they have ceased smoking.
The Chinese are now learning to cultivate the poppy, and
manufacture its juice into opium themselves ; but the great
amount of this drug is imported from India by the British,
even to the amount of from 12,000,000 to 15,000,000 lbs. per
annum — an increase of fully twenty fold during the present
century, and this notwithstanding the government of China,
knowing its pernicious effect, has continually opposed such
importation. The Chinese, having once come in contact with
it, have been wild with a desire for the drug ; while the
Enirlish, to their shame, be it said, have assisted in smusrsrlino:
it into the ports of China, and have pressed the permission
for its sale upon the Chinese government with unwarranted
means, even by arms, so that now its importation is legalized.
As an offset to this vice of opium smoking, it may be said
that the Chinese do not use intoxicating liquors of any kind ;
tea and weak spirits made from rice, being their strongest
drink. I never saw a drunken Chinaman ; and I suppose they
would be as much astonished at our drinking propensities as
we were at their opium smoking .That they are occasionally
amused thereby is certain ; and while we were in Ilong Kong
an American gentleman who, Nvhen sober, M-as qualified by
nature and education to move in the best society, greatly
amused the natives by sitting down in the mud, under the
impression that he was taking a seat in the "chair" which
he had enjiaored for a ride.
The Chinese are justly noted for their great imitative powers.
This faculty, together with their incredible patience in appli-
cation, renders them a very skillful people, to the truth of
■which their many beautiful carvings and other works of art
182
IMITATIVE CHINAMEX.
will attest. Let any object no matter how intricate and
puzzling, be placed before one of these Orientals, and he will
accomplish the reproduction of it even to the smallest and
most insignihcaut particulars. This imitative power has been
the origin of many
yarns. Probably you
have heard how an
American took an old
pair of boots to a China-
man as a model by
which to have a new
pair made. In a few
days he went for his
new boots, but to his
surprise one of the toes
was adorned with a
patch similar to that on
one of the old ones.
The story related by
Bridget illustrates in a
laughable manner this
faculty in a Chinaman
employed to assist her in the kitchen.
"You're aware ycrsel ' how the boondles comin' in from
the grocery often contains more'n ' 11 go in any thing decently.
So for that matter I'd now and then take out a sup o'sugar
or flour or tay an'wrap it in paper, an put it in me bit of a box
tucked under the ironin' blanket, the how it cuddent be
bodderin' anyone. Well what shud it be but this blessed
Sathurday morn the missis was a spakin' pleasant and respect-
ful wid me in me kitchen, when the grocer-boy comes in an'
stands fornenst her wid her boondles, an' she motions like to
Fing Wing (which I never could call him by that name ner
any other but just haythin) — she motions to him, she does, for
to take the boondles an' empty out the sugar an' what not
where they belongs. If you'll belave me, Ann Ryan, what
did that blatherin' Chineser do but take out a sup o' sugar an'
AM0SING THE NATIVES.
BRIDGET'S STORY. 1S3
a handful o' tay, an' a bit o' cliazc, right afore the missis,
wrap them into bits o' paper, an' I spachless wid shurprise,
an' he the next minute up wid the ironin' Uanket and puUin'
out me box, wid a show o' bein' sly to put them in. Och,
the Lord forgive me, but I clutched it, and the missis sayin'
"O Kitty" in a way that 'ud cuddle your blood. "He's a
haythin nager" says 1. "I've found you out," says she. "I'll
arrist him," says I. "It's you who ought to be arrested," says
she. "You won't," says I. "I will," says she. And so it
went till she give me such sass as I cuddent take from no lady,
an' I give her warnin' an' left that instant, an' she a pointin'
to the doore."
One day as we sat in our room at the hotel, a Chinese
barber entered seeking employment in his profession. After
he had shaved Caleb satisfactorily, I concluded to have my
hair cut, and that pretty short, as it was in a hot climate.
The next thing was to make the barber understand how I
wanted it done. My chin whiskers had grown out an inch or
so, while those on the side of my face were four or live times
as long. By stroking my chin whiskers, I tried to make him
understand that I wanted my hair cut about so short. He
looked astonished ; so I again rubbed my chin, and told him
with considerable emphasis that I wanted my hair cut to
same length. As he still appeared astonished, I became vexed,
and told him to go to work ; whereupon he nodded liis head,
and began to clip away at the top of my head. I thought
it rather a singular commencement and looked round at Caleb
who appeared to be busily engaged reading. A moment
later however he burst into laughter, and I rushed to the
lookinir-irlass. Stars ! — The barber had cut a furrow from fore-
head to the crown of my head like a swarth through a field of
wheat. He was evidently trying to make the hair on my head
correspond to that on my face.
As I gazed on the Chinaman's handiwork, a wild frenzy
seized me, and I looked at him in a way which overcame his
serene composure and caused him to retreat to the other side
of the room, while his spectacles fell from his nose. The
184
CUTTING A SWARTH.
ridiculous appearance wbich I presented proved liis salvation,
for I laughed so loud and long that I was powerless to harm
him.
"We three then held a consultation, as to how I could best
get out of the scrape, and as a result, the barber was invited
to persevere in the work be had commenced; he did so with a
will, and soon relieved me of nearly all the hair I had on my
head. For a full month after, I was a perfect scare-crow,
and the laughing stock of all the guests at the hotel.
A BARBEROCS BARBER.
CHAPTER XX.
THE LAST OF HONG KONG.
SOMEONE says there are 300,000,000 Chinese in the world,
and I suppose he must be correct. 1 would not contradict
a man who has counted 300,000,000 of anything, much less
Chinese. I am willing to believe there are twice that number
rather than dispute even with a man who has suffered so many
Chinese to rest on his mind. "We saw only about 5,000,000,
and thought we had seen all we could conveniently remember ;
in fact their presence became quite monotonous.
The fashions of China are at a standstill like everything
else, and although a stranger is very much interested for a
while, the sameness soon becomes wearisome. Every China-
man has a single tuft of hair left on his otherwise cleanly
shaven head, and this hair is plaited and lengthened out with
pieces of black silk until it dangles almost to the ground.
Very loose trowsers, a garment half shirt and half jacket
reaching below the hips ; shoes made of straw with wooden or
felt soles, or more frequently no soles at all — these are the
habiliments of over one third of the human race. Their hats
are studies of absurdity and are as varied as tlie caprice or
wealth of their owners. A beggarly sedan carrier may be
obliged to put up with a discarded sailor hat, but a patrician
rat dealer feels more dignified under the shade of a broad
brimmed palm leaf. Others suggestively adorn their heads
with a covering resembling a candle extinguisher; and large
numbers go without anything in the shape of a hat.
185
186
ABOUT THE WOMEX.
The women of the lower classes dress nearly the same as the
men, but select more showy colors for their garments. A
blue cotton stuff is the prevailing material, but silk and linen
A STUDY OK HATS.
are worn by the upper classes. The women retain all the
hair they can, and among the more refined the method of
dressing it is very good — in effect at least; they comb it
neatly back, flute it on either side to resemble wings, and do
it up in a large mass on the back of the head. All the poor
women go without shoes, and their feet are moderately large ;
but the nobility bind the feet of their children in infancy,
thereby preventing their growth though their ankles are of the
natural size. The unfortunate victims of this fashion sel-
dom walk ; but when they do, go hobbling along leaning for
support on servants. The corset is as yet unknown in the
country. They have in China an infallible way of discover-
ing who are gentlemen of " elegant leisure " and who are not.
SCENE FROM THE BALCONY.
187
Every man who has nothing else to do, spends his time in
cultivating his linger nails. It is considered a great mark of
beauty to have long nails, and some even go so far as to
wear small bamboo sheaths on their fingers at night to pre-
vent their being broken while sleeping.
From the balcony of our hotel — which faced so that we
had a view down four streets — we observed, morning, noon
and night, passing crowds of Mongolias, each seeming intent
on some object, ever wondering at their ceaseless industry,
and the poverty resulting therefrom. Here and there were
sedan chairs borne by stalwart men regardless of all in their
MISTRESS AND MAID.
course, who violently jostled the yielding throng that never
thought of resenting the indignity. Venders of soup, gam-
blers plying their nefarious profession, tinkers, each and all
on the streets, working along as stolidly and incessantly as
though in some private shop where no one could interfere.
What a motley group we look down upon from this balcony
188
STREET MERCHAXTS.
of ours ! Here two partners in a venture sustain their united
capital stock in a huge basket hung to a pole, and shout their
jargon above the din of competing venders of vegetables,
fruits, or curious wares — each traveling merchant presenting
the appearance of a pair of walking scales. Across the way
is a bookseller ; next to him is a lishstand ; then comes a barber.
SIDEWALK ARTISANS.
The principal person of one group shakes from a little cup a
number of small sticks, looks intently upon each one, and pro-
nounces his customer's destiny.
One day a native ran by our hotel at the top of his speed,
followed by a gaunt Indiaman in tlie garb of a policeman.
Down the street they went, but the policeman rapidly gaining
on the runaway at length seized him by his pigtail, compelled
him to carry tlie bundle he had stolen back to its owner, and
then dragged him away for punishment. Soon after, down
the widest street came a funeral procession preceeded by a
band of weird musicians playing upon their instruments, which
A CIIIXESE rUNERAL.
1S9
sounded as though each man was playing a different tune as
his fancy dictated. Close behind theiu came people carrying
food and ornaments to be left at the tomb as is the custom,
that the deceased may not fare badly before he becomes ac-
A POLICEMAN AND HIS VICTIM.
quainted in the next world. The coffin was made of two
hollow logs, which, slung on poles, was borne along by four
men on foot. Then came the hired mourners dressed all in
white. What a noise they made ! I believe one good healthy
Chinese can make more discord on a gong than any hotel
waiter ever dreamed of. The only cheerful thing about the
procession was the ringing of the bells, which was kept up in-
cessantly by boys who seemed striving to drown all the other
performers.
Just outside the city away from its noisy turmoil is another
— the City of the Dead. The ostentatious display of wealth
in every direction, contrasts strangely M-ith the oppressive
silence that is broken only by our echoing footsteps as we
wander from house to house paying our respects to the mute
occupants, who, deaf alike to our curiosity or compliments,
sleep on undisturbed. As the lengthened shadows of declin-
ing day creep across this chamber of the tomb in which we
are standing — a tomb more beautiful than all the rest — a
vague sense of terror comes over us. On a raised platform
12
190 RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS,
covered with an embroidered velvet robe rests the coffin of a
high Mandarin. With an appropriateness suggestive of his
bloody career, the trappings of this dispenser of Chinese
justice are all red. Cruel, unrelenting and purse-proud, there
came an hour when neither wealth, pride, or power availed
him ; custom, and family pride for a little longer maintain
this empty show of poAver, but it is only a parody on life and
soon another lifeless body will thrust him from his hollow
throne.
"We went to a wedding, and saw the presents which the
bride was to receive ; there was a substantial look about them
which was refreshing. They consisted of pieces of household
furniture, baskets of ducks and geese, and two pigs. We
moralized considerably over the ostentatious display ; but our
landlord told us that most of the presents were hired or bor-
rowed for the occasion. A man when he marries a wife in
China takes her sight unseen, for he never sees her until after
she is brought home to his house in a covered sedan chair.
This is the time of year for religious processions from
Canton, and we are frequently drawn by curiosity to look
over the railing of our hotel veranda as they pass, and watch
them as long as they are in sight. We do not understand
them ; and doubt very much if any earthly being does — not
even the Chinese themselves. Here comes one 1 It is late in
the morning, yet some in front are bearing torches. Now
comes their hideous music. Following, are parties carrying
images, such as dragons, scorpions, lions, serpents and gods,
while behind them are others dressed in strange uniforms,
hand in hand, keeping step, noticing nothing, but appearing
downcast and looking toward the ground. In the rear are
carts containing little pale-faced girls, with each standing on
one leg — the other one being tied up so that it cannot be seen.
Thus they stand the livelong day, and at night they are com-
pletely exhausted.
Our stay at Hong Kong was full of interest, and our land-
lord, an American, did everything possible to make it pleasant
for us. The hotel was run in the European style, though
WAYSIDE RESTAURANTS. 191
eomewliat modified to suit the Chinese taste. At meals we
had seven or eight courses of dishes, including two or three
plates of soup. The waiters, and those who pulled the great
fan that hung from the ceiling over the table, and the serv-
ants who bhicked our boots in the morning before we were
up, were all natives. As their labor was cheap, they were
numerous about the hotel; one to do this, and another that,
without our being charged extra for services as we were in
Europe. Still our bills in Ilong Ivong were, upon the whole,
larger than they were either in Europe or America, as the
vegetables which suited our taste were scarce, and much of
the flour was brought from San Francisco.
The Chinese restaurants were simple and primitive beyond
anything we had ever seen. Here and there along the side-
walks were Chinamen with little fires kindled, upon which
they were boiling kettles of soup, and occasionally dropping
therein something which resembled small apple dumplings.
Around these restaurants were the guests ; each one received
a bowl of soup or a dish of the dumplings, and ate in a stand-
ing posture or while squatting upon the ground like a monkey.
Sometimes little rolls of sweet cakes might also be bought at
the more stylish of these establishments. We purchased
some of the cakes, out of curiosity, and tried to eat them ;
but they had a sickening sweetish taste which we could not
appreciate. The soups and dumplings we were not brave
enough to try, but we had the audacity on a certain occasion
to take a meal at a Chinese hotel. It is seldom you find
these hotels anything else than mean and dirty, and the one
we patronized was no exception to the general rule.
The dining table was set with two or three small plates
and saucers for each guests, while other delicate dishes of
China-ware were scattered here and there over the table ;
each guest was also furnished with a " China spoon," and a
pair of "chop sticks." These sticks were slim and round,
and generally six or seven inches in length, and took the place
of knives and forks. Of course our tea cups were filled with
tea, as this article is universally used, the tea-plant ranking
192 A MYSTERIOUS DISH.
■first in importance of all the products of China. We were
fully supplied with rice, this article ranking next in import-
ance to tea ; it is to the Chinaman what bread is to the
American — in fact many almost live on it, at a cost of not
more than five or six cents per day. The Chinese eat rice
with their chop sticks with the greatest ease ; but we made
bungling work of it. Then something else was brought in.
No person except the cook could tell what it was, as he,
by grating, or hashing, or rendering into soup, nearly always
disguises the original shape of the eatables — especially meats.
All we could tell was, that it resembled a slimy and gluti-
nous soup. For this kind of soup they beat the world ; and
as it is generally made from sea-weeds of all descriptions,
blubber fish, the roots and tender shoots of plants, bird-nests,
insects etc, we didn't know exactly whether it would be safe
to try it or not. It tasted about as might be expected from
its looks; but we ate it all, and could not even then decide
whether we liked it or not.
After finishing the soup we were ready for something else,
and a bowlful of what might be hash was brought in and
pa^ised around. The guests dove into it with their chop sticks,
and we finally managed to get a little onto our plates. What
was it? It could not be beef, for this is never eaten by the
Chinese. It did not look like pork, although this is con-
sumed in great quantities; nor did it look like fowl, not-
withstanding poultry is their favorite meat ; nor fish, yet
many almost live upon this article of food. Tortoise, turtles,
and frogs are frequently cooked, but we were not so well
acquainted with those kinds of meat. "\Ve knew snakes,
puppies, cats and rats are sometimes eaten, but hoped it was
not any of these. "We must not judge by appearances how-
ever, for that would throw us out of our Chinese dinner, as it
looked as much like door meat as any thino: else.
A taste however satisfied us that v:e did not want any
more; and at the same moment Caleb, staring at his spoon,
declared that he had found traces of a defunct puppy. On
looking at the mysterious "fossil" I became of the same
THE MYSTERY SOLVED.
193
opinion, and was incited to a closer inspection of my own
dish, which resulted in the discovery of an eye-lash of a rat.
One seldom sees Caleb angr}-, but this was too nnich for his
serenity. His eye kindled ; blood shot through his cheeks,
and he exclaimed : —
" It's a mean dirty swindle ! I shall have my revenge on
these lieathens yet ! "
They all stared at us, but we jumped up and walked toward
OCR FIRST RAT-SOUP.
the cashier, who was astounded and frightened, and seemed
anxious to run away. Throwing a few coins down before
him, I shouted : —
" Take them, and run your rat shanty into the ground ! "
As we walked out, a dozen pig-tails collected around our
dishes to see what had so mysteriously wrought upon the
feelings of the "foreign devils" as they called us, and in fact
call all foreigners. For some time this dinner haunted ns;
and I think it must have been a full week before Caleb
prayed again for the " heathen Chinese."
Our American host informed us that had we remained to
finish our dinner there would have been twelve or fifteen
changes of food, all similar in appearance, generally insipid to
our taste, but with only a few repulsive dishes.
CHAPTER XXI.
UP THE CANTON ElYEK.
AS we steamed away from the British harbor of Hong
Kong for the vast city of Canton, my blood naturally
ran cold upon discovering that we constituted two of the four
Europeans aboard. AYe glanced with suspicions at the hun-
dreds of Chinamen huddled around on the floor gambling for
small iron coins. "Will not thev, ima£:ininfi: that we have
gold, conspire against us and divide the spoil?" 1 did not say
it aloud, but thought it.
Soon however our attention was drawn to a fellow on the
lower deck pillowing his head on a bundle of hay. Accident-
ally, as it seemed to us, his cranium slipped from the bundle
which, thereupon, rolled overboard into the water. The
patient Chinaman endured his loss by meekly replacing it
with another. By and by this suffered the same fate as the
former one. Caleb suggested that had this Celestial possessed
any inventive genius he would have made it fast with his pig-
tail. Finally, upon his loosing a third bundle, we concluded
he was softening the hay for greens. But I confess that
secretly I did not believe in this supposition, as I had never
seen a Chinese horse, and consequently horse greens could be
of no earthly use ; — besides we observed that a boat happened
along and picked up each bundle before it had time to soak
much. AVe had heard of opium smuggling, and naturally
formed an opinion. As the principal officers of the steamer
were Europeans, of course they did not see the trick. The
sale of opium was increased, and the Chinese government
was minus the duty — that was all.
194
BOARDED BY A DETECTIVE.
195
Soon after this another European came aboard our vessel.
lie had been in China so lonj^ that every other word he used
had lost all traces of the English ring. We consoled ourselves
with the idea that our random responses to his questions were
as unintelligible to him. However, after great difficulty we
comprehended that he was a Chinese detective employed by
that government to board all vessels passing these waters.
It struck us that were there five hundred such detective offi-
OPinU SMUGGLINQ.
cers, smugglers might hide their boats among the numberless
islands that crowded both the open sea and the mouth of the
Canton river. AVe seemed to be sailing among mountain
peaks projecting boldly from the water, yet under terrace
cultivation.
Our fears of the native passengers subsided as we steamed
up the river, past fort after fort, and village after village,
— walled cities in fact — and beheld the cannons dismounted,
and the walls more or less broken down, during a former
unpleasantness, by shots from the European gunboats. The
whole of the interior of the forts was exposed to view, for
instead of the walls crowning the summits of the hills they
were bravely built along the bottom, so that the retreat of
the inmates when attacked had been rendered impossible
owing to the steep banks behind them. The English and
196 REMINISCENCES OF THE WAR.
French troops went round to tlie rear of the fortifications
and rolled stones down upon the heads of the innocent inmates,
who had never thought of this device and considered it a
dishonest trick. " Inglis fits no far ; he snaks round on rere
an' hurl rock an' shell onto us back ! "
The principal object of the English, especially in destroying
these forts, was a disreputable one, namely, the flooding of
China with their opium from India. As early as 1793, an
embassy from England was kindly received at Pekin ; but on
account of its efforts to introduce opium, another embassy
which was sent in 1816 was not admitted into the presence
of the emperor. Afterward, severe prohibitory laws were
enacted against the use of opium. This exasperated the
British who then tried to frighten the Chinese by certain
military demonstrations in Canton, which were however with-
out effects
At intervals ever since they have continued these demon-
strations, and at times have even bombarded forts. Occasion-
ally they have gained some advantages, and in 1842 the island
of Hong Kong was ceded to them. In 1856, a crew of Chinese
who were carrying on the smuggling business under the
British flag, were captured by the Cliinese authorities at
Canton. The British demanded restitution, which was haugh-
tily refused. The English resorted to force, and were joined
by the French as an ally. The Americans in Chinese waters,
to the surprise of many, were rather inclined to take part
against the natives. About this time an American ship was
fired into, probably through mistake, and at once the United
States frigate under Commodore Armstrong bombarded and
captured four forts with numerous guns below Canton ; but it
is only fair to state that this act was not approved of by our
government. The English by bombardment destroyed the
principal government buildings at Canton, and gained some
advantages ; but in the latter part of the year the Chinese
populace made a demonstration, and many Englishmen fell
victims to their wrath.
Early in 1857, the English destroyed a sq^uadron of Chinese
CAPTURE OF CANTON. 197
junks, and in September the Chinese government declared
war against her enemy. Upon this tlic English, with France
as an ally, pushed forward more vigorously than ever. Fort
after fort was taken. The Chinese sank thousands of sampans
loaded with stones to check the progress of the gunboats, but
on they pushed until opposite Canton, which soon surrendered,
although the gunboats were few in number, and Canton was
much larger than Kew York, and surrounded by a wall many
feet thick. Since that time the Chinese have thought it use-
less to defend these dismantled forts along the river.
After capturing Canton the invading forces threatened
Pekin itself, and toward the middle of 1S5S approached to
within a few miles of that great city. The emperor becoming
alarmed entered into a treaty respecting opium, — thus legali-
zing suicide, and paying the other side for it
AVhy will a thousand Chinamen permit one European to
rule over them ? Some answer, they are weak and feeble ;
but a couple will carry an European through a town at a speed
faster than he can carry himself. Is that feebleness ? Others
say they are cowardly; 1 think so too, but could never fully
understand why in a quarrel they will bravely face each other
with the most deadly weapons. The secret of the matter is,
I believe, they have no self respect. I have fi-equently read
that they are proud ; but it seems to be in the sense that a dog
is at times proud. The masses have been so accustomed to that
old Confucian idea of childlike obedience to superiors of every
* grade and rank, and so cowed down into their respective
spheres of littleness for thirty centuries, that their canine dig-
nity has become a second nature above which they never as-
pire. AVe observed that if one of the natives on board our
. vessel happened to be trying to find out how a Chinaman
would fit an European chair, he would vacate it when we ap-
proached, as meekly as though he liad been shot at and missed,
causing us to rather appreciate his deference than to fear his
force.
The river banks were now low and level, dotted here and
there by a city, between which there was not a single habita-
198
AN EMPEPwOR'S EXAMPLE.
tion, Yast fields minutely but impereeptiblj divided and
subdivided, "were covered with Chinamen. Here they were
bending among the rice, hoeing and pulling out the weeds ;
there half a dozen in a square rod were using sickles in a
harvest field ; while not far away were others threshing a field
of grain ; and still others near by more brisk than their neigh-
bors, were setting out their second crop of rice on ground that
had lately been scratched over by a wooden plow drawn by a
FLOWING LIK£ HIS FATBEB.
buffalo that moved just slow enough for a Chinaman unanima-
tedby the presence of a foreigner or his half dollar. As their
fathers have plowed before them for centuries back so plow *
they, nor sigh for innovation or improvement.
The emperor has a habit of plowing one furrow and
sowing rice therein every year, to impress upon his imitative
subjects the importance of agriculture which is the chief in-
dustry of China. In their slow way they elevate water in
buckets over their fields, and what a Chinaman will not con-
O
CO
h4 ■
«
i-i
o
LIFE IN THE SAMPANS.
201
THE GUARDIAN PAGODA.
descend to do in the way of enriching the soil no other being
can do. lie is content to cultivate a small piece of ground
above the graves of his an-
cestors, thus drawing sus-
tenance from their bones.
The pagoda was the strik-
ins: feature in every land-
scape, within sight of which
generation after generation
were born, lived, and died,
happy in the thoughts that
they had never been beyond
its guardian vision, that they
had worshiped the ancestral
idols in each of its stories
— especially those in the
ninth or highest — and that
they had looked once each
day at its highest balcony,
prefiguring their hope of a home in the highest heaven after
numerous transmigrations and punishments here for their
evil deeds.
We were now comins: amonij beino:s who lived in a single
spot — but that was a moving spot — I mean the occupants of
sampans. In this boat, ten or fifteen feet long and three or
four feet wide, the whole family resides ; and many of the
children never set foot on dry land until they have entered
on their " teens." AVhen they " go a courting " they simply
step to another one of the myriads of boats swarming in the
river. But they find no parlor nor any piano — excepting they
tread on the toes of squeaking babies. The strictest economy
requires every inch of space for washing — though little of
that is done — cooking, eating and sleeping, especially if the
family be numerous.
Near the centre of the boat there is a curved coverinof
large enough to shelter five or six persons, but so low tliat
the adults liave to go down on their hands and knees as they
202
NO BUOYS FOR GIRL-BABIES.
enter. It was an interesting sight to witness the father and
mother, and eight or ten children, gracefully seated round a
dish of lish and greens, diving into it like so many greasy,
yellow-faced monkeys. The baby has no cradle, but it has
the floor ; and a bamboo joint is tied round its waist so that
it cannot sink when it falls overboard into the water. I have
the impression that this buoy is attached only to the boy-
babies, for girl-babies are considered as a misfortune ; and
"they are so unfortunate" who have them.
*' ROCK ME TO SLEEP UOTHEB. '
Look at that mother with a child strapped upon her back,
rocking it as she rows ; or, when she rapidly skulls, flapping
its head from side to side. Thus has she wearily toiled on
from day to day and from year to year, till six children have
climbed down from her shoulders to roll, tumble, frolic, and
thump each other in the bow of the sampan. AVere it not for
her garbless and guileless progeny, there would be no epochs
in her life for noting the countless number of times she has
swung her monotonous oar, while her lazy husband impeded
their progress by cooling his feet in the current as the old
homestead floated alonof.
"We became interested in observing the junks sailing up and
down the river, with the oblique eyes of the Chinese sea-god
A FLOATING POPULATION. 203
painted upon tlieir unwieldy prows. But our fears were
again aroused when we saw small cannons pointing at us from
some of the decks. I had heard of the scum of society, and
now believed I had actually found it Hoating on these waters.
400,000 outcasts were here engaged in fitting up piratical
boats to infest the coasts of Asia ; in rearing rats, mice, ducks,
dogs, and other animals for the epicures of Canton; or in float-
ing out swarms of females to entice the inmates of European
and American vessels.
"\Ve were now approaching the great commercial city with
its ten or fifteen hundred thousand struggling souls, where,
by a foreigner, novelty and wonder are found perched npon
every object. According to travelers competent to judge.
Canton, located upon rising ground on the right bank of the
river, presents, as it is being approached, the most imposing
appearance of any city in the Orient. We could readily
believe it. What did we see ? We may not know the exact
limits of a tornado, yet all recognize that something mighty
is at work ; so we knew that a mighty city lay off to our north-
west, although we could not apprehend exactly what it was.
Yonder among the tiled roofs, and spires, and temples, towered
two pagodas as if keeping eternal watch over the city with
its thronging myriads below.
The sampan owners were posted in regard to our anchor-
age in the middle of the stream and were on the lookout for
us. As our vessel neared them, a shower of lariats were flung
at different parts of the steamer, many taking efiect. To these
lariats, and to each other, clung sampan after sampan, until a
fleet of these little boats was being towed along by our vessel,
and soon we all came to a halt.
Then began a crowding, and a scrambling, and a running
into each other of these small boats, each trying to get next to
our vessel to secure the passengers, which would have seemed
comical to a brigade of clowns. The runners were soon aboard,
but passed by the Chinese pilgrims to throw the full force of
their attack upon us. Their battalions seemed to have been
recruited from the gentler sex — and all seemed to be recruits
204:
WILDAIR SURRENDERS.
— SO we were calm, though they caught us by the hands and
tried to lead us away as prisoners. Some very fine Chinese
ladies drive these chariots of the water ; so when one with
captivating looks and ways seized my hand, I said : —
" Caleb, I'm going to surrender."
As we passed over several other sampans to reach the one
presided over by our fair enslaver, others of the same sex laid
claim to honor of the capture by attempting to march us off by
the coat-tail, and seemed likely to carry a\vay the defences
AN ATTACK IN THE REAR.
of our modesty if they did not ourselves ; and another one
ran off with Caleb's fan, holding it up as a trophy of victory
to lead the way. "We might have respected her claims to an
interest in our welfare by following her, had we been at
liberty ; but finding that tliose in the rear having made a
serious breach, appeared likely to carry my last defences, I
opened upon them with my heels and voice in such an ener-
getic way that they beat a hasty retreat, and my nearly sun-
dered coat again dropped into position.
Our original captor, the bright eyed lass, who had defended
us to the extent of her power, now politely led us forward by
the arms till we reached her boat, assisted us to enter it, and
then rowed towards a prison for which she was acting as a
sort of scout. Iler father, a stupid fellow, was lounging upon
: OUR BRIGHT-EYED CAPTOR.
205
his side under the canopy of the boat. lie vras bare-footed,
bare-headed, and grasped in his sleep the opium pipe whose
fumes had evidently overcome him, so that a package of
fire crackers exploded at his feet would not have sufficed to
arouse him. We thought at first that he had set somethinor
on fire as smoke arose around ns, but on looking for the
THK GENTLE KOWER.
cause thereof we discovered an idol before whicli was set burn-
ing incense-sticks and some provisons.
At length our mermaid safely delivered us over to the
custody of the jailor — I mean a Portuguese hotel-keeper, who
tormented us awhile with his Portuguese-English largely adul-
terated with Chinese, and after dinner undertook the task of
setting us to punching billiard balls.
CHAPTER XXIT.
THE CHINESE METROPOLIS.
WHEN a man settles down among a lot of people five
thousand years old, he is apt to feel so juvenile as to
adopt many of their customs. I became acquainted with
some foreign residents of Canton who, unwilling to appear
to set themselves up as better than or different from their
neighbors, had each purchased a pretty Chinese girl, and in
a joint stock sort of a way boarded them ail together at a hotel
just out of the city. There were in all seven Chinese girls,
wuth thirteen improvements on the maternal stock whose ac-
quaintance with the English and Chinese languages will
perhaps, at some future day, be of benefit to the commercial
world. "When I saw the little semi-celestials they were en-
gaged in " playing horse," and had utilized their pigtails for
the occasion. One of them climbed on my knee and called
me papa !
These children were happy, their mothers were contented,
and their fathers were testing a new feature of the social evil
on the co-operative plan, at an annual expense, I was informed,
of about one thousand dollars, exclusive of the first cost of the
females which would be about five hundred dollars each. I
was curious to know how these gentlemen's lawful M'ives
liked this sort of thing ; but strange to say we found on in-
quiring that it was a subject not often spoken of at home. So
these martyrs to improvement secretly conduct their co-oper-
ative industry without the smiles of women of their own
nationality. We thought it a trifle selfish in them not to tell
206
CONNOISSEURS OF CHINESE BEAUTY.
2or
their wives; but theirs alone be the glory and theirs the
shame.
The natives of this country will generally sell you anything
they possess in this world — or the next — if you otler them
enough. They decoy you under the most childish pretences
IMPROVEMENTS ON THE RACE.
into their dens, and then offer the whole family to you, one
by one, stating the price of each. If you are a Chinaman you
cannot get a sight of the party you think of buying; but if
comparatively youthful and possessed, of plenty of money,
a man not to the manor born has an opportunity of examining
his purchase before paying for it. When a father finds one
of his daughters blooming into beautiful womanhood, he hies
him to the foreign quarter and beguiles some connoisseur in
females to invest from three to six hundred dollars therein.
This does not look quite right to us, but it may fifty cen-
turies hence; I hope it will not any sooner.
The foreign suburbs of the city is comprised of about four
is
208
FOREIGN LADIES IN CANTON.
acres ]ying west of the wall, and just back from the river.
A part of this is laid out in beautiful walks, and planted
with flowers, shrubs and grass ; the remainder is covered
■with fine dwellings, factories, and stores, from the roofs of
which flutter the flags of several nationalities.
We noticed that American and Eno:lish women do not seem
to thrive well in this climate. They look unnaturally pale,
yet they are seldom really sick. They seem to be too Aveak
to walk ; but perhaps the contrast between foreign and native
ladies makes them appear more delicate than they are. The
Chinese ladies, when in full feather, put such an extravagant
amount of paint on their faces, as to completely change their
A FIRST CLASS RAT-SELLER.
appearance and make them resemble dolls. This is no fiction.
I wonder they have any vermilion to export, so generally is
it used and in such quantities.
One night, during the celebration of a festival, we visited
a floating city, made by fastening thousands of small boats
A FLOATING CITY.
200
together and placing boards from one to the other. Our
landlord went with us in his sampan, or we should never have
ventured through the endless maze of restaurants and shops
of every kind which, lighted up by lanterns of all colors, ap-
peared more like some glittering theatrical show than real
life. Here in all his glory was the rat peddler, delicately exhib-
iting his rodents, and soliciting customers, while im))ecunious
celestials gazed with longing at the dainty morsels, which
could be bought alive, if suspicions of their anti(piity haunted
the customer; but live ones were high in price, and buyers did
not appear to regard decomposition as an unfavorable adjunct.
In one of the saloons where we stopped, 1 had some conver-
sation of a very entertaining kind with a young woman. She
spoke Chinese ; I English. I was pleased with her remarks,
and smiled approval; she reciprocated as far as she was able.
What might have been the result of our interview, had it been
prolonged, 1 cannot say ; but just as we were in the midst of
a discussion, 1 was invited by our guide to accompany him on
a voyage of discovery further into the interior, and had to
leave abruptly.
THE GUTTER SNIPE.
There was a class of persons roaming about the floating
dwellings, who are worthy of mention from their saving ])ro-
clivities. A Chinaman is a wonder of economy, particularly
210 A RIDE ABOUT CANTON.
if he is poor ; still there must be a waste somewhere, or how
could the class I refer to exist? They are met everywhere,
plying their vocation with an amusing indifference to every
thing else. What in the world they found worth picking up
and carrying off we could not imagine.
I shall never forget our lirst ride through the streets of
Canton, when all was new and novel. We had procured a
Chinese guide, and three chairs, with four coolies to each.
We started with the guide in front ; sometimes Caleb was
second, but generally I was. I wanted to be in the middle,
you see, so that I could show my bravery. Were we to be
attacked in the front, or rear, I should be ready to assist
at either end.
We were carried for hours through innumerable winding
streets, only live or six feet wide and covered over at the top
to keep out the hot sun. The rocky pavements were damp
and slippery from the proximity of sewers. The trash, and dirt
of the city with all its produce and merchandise, were carried
to and fro, as in a pair of scales, upon the shoulders of men.
Our chairmen continually hallooed to the noisy thi'ong,
warning them to hug the walls as we passed ; and teeming
myriads of people from their numberless little shops, looked
out and stared at us. Pig-tailed boys pressed their way among
their pig-tailed sires, and children Avere as ants struggling
among the inmates of a bee-hive. During a Avhole day we
never saw a human being except these half civilized Orientals.
We lost our bearings entirely and almost our individual iden-
tity, and seemed to be moving in a new and strange world.
At times we dismounted from our chairs, and visited the
shops near by. Or again the guide would send the chairmen
off down a street without us, and then lead us along narrow
foot-paths where not even the chairs could pass, to visit shops
faraway in the interior of a block, or round a court or under
a corridor. Emerging at length, we knew not where, we always
found our chairmen waiting for us at the designated place.
" Out West," a cat when blindfolded, taken miles into the
A CU\ KJiKK >lliKKI tiF ( A.NTON.
INDUSTRIES OF THE GREAT CITY. 213
woods, and turned loose, will find its way home again. These
cliainneu seemed to be equally sagacious.
Here and there and everywhere were bright ornaments
and curious trinkets; aTid vast quantities of porcelain or
Chinaware. We passed through buildings where were being
stored millions of geese' and hens' eggs, for transportation to
different parts of Asia. There were many shops where
ivory, silver, and gold were carved into card-cases, boxes,
images, and various strange and beautiful figures, a few
of which we bought as mementoes of our visit. The most
remarkable of these was an ivory ball containing eight or
ten smaller ones, one inside another, and all carved from
the same piece of ivory. Each of these, as far in as we
could see by shaking them about, was covered with beautiful
fiirurcs. It seems wonderful how these inner balls were
reached to be thus touched into exquisite design.
The Chinese lacquered ware is much the same as the Japan-
ese japanned ware. Occasionally we watched as the finishing
touch was being given. "When the box or other article has
received numerous coats of varnish, the last few being of the
finest quality so that the surface shines like a looking glass,
they take a piece of paper which has been flowered and figured
by the piercings of a needle-point, and placing it upon the
box rub a white powder over its surface. Then with a pencil
dipped in varnish, the design is run out as indicated by the
powder. While this penciling is still moist, gold-dust is
rubbed over to gild the figure. Finally, the whole is touched
over with a light varnish, and the surface has then become
exquisitely beautiful.
The Chinese weave their silks in looms, throwing the shut-
tle just as our own countrywomen used to do years ago ; but
to me it was surprising that they could do such nice work by
this process. With all their manufactories and facilities the
Americans and Europeans cannot equal the Chinese in the
manufacture of the superior qualities of silk.
Did you ever visit a penitentiary ? If so, doutless you saw
criminals who were imprisoned for life, from whose counte-
214
THE CANQUE AND BASTINADO.
nance all the light of hope had disappeared ; no more were they
to enjoy the smiles of friends, or the endearments of home ;
nevermore to come and go at will, never more to be free. But
this is a humane mode of punishment as compared with the
methods adopted by the Chinese. We passed men who, as a
POKING FCN AT HIM.
punishment for stealing, were wearing the canque — a broad
heavy board for the neck — and chained at the door wliere the
crime had been committed ; while the boys of the neighborhood
amused themselves by tantalizing them — even poking sticks
into their ears to make them squirm. Occasionally we saw
a man undergoing the bastinado. He was dragged down upon
the ground, while his countrymen piled upon him to thump
and beat their victim. They seemed to look upon this as
sport too, and engaged in it with a joy akin to that of gamb-
At the police-stations and prisons we noticed several men
in cages. Sometimes their heads were stuck through the sides
INHUMAN PUNISHMENTS.
215
or out at the top in such a manner as to ohh'ge them to stand
day after day on tip toe. In other instances they were fixed
in a bending position, unable either to kneel or to stand up-
right. We even saw one victim hanging by his feet with
blood-shot eyes and distorted features. Upon his noticing
us he seemed to revive. We could see it in the expression of
his features, though we could not understand his words. He
THEY SEKMED TO LIKE IT.
had entreated his countrymen in vain ; now he thought that
we might be able to assist him. We could not endure his en-
treaties, and as we withdrew he shrieked with agony and
despair till our blood ran cold.
Through a cheerless street we went to visit the place of
public executions. It was a dark gloomy spot surrounded by
a stone wall, where the heads of men are severed by dozens
at a time. Often delays are made that a number may be
executed together.
216 ON TEE WALL OF CHINA.
During our stay in Canton we ascended the wall in the
rear of the city, to obtain a view. At the top, and on the
outer edge of the wall, was a rim, five or six feet high, and
about the same in thickness, pierced with port-holes for
small cannon, while inside of this rim was a line promen-
ade. From tliis elevation the two great pagodas, the spires
of the temple, and the red flag-poles in front of the manda-
rins' dwellings, showed to good advantage ; but it was almost
impossible to distinguish the streets, as they were narrow,
and covered over so as to entirely conceal from view the
crowds who thronged them.
From the highest part of the wall the country northward
presented a scene of beauty and novelty. It was a far-
reaching plain covered with broad fields of rice, studded with
groves of small trees and innumerable villages, and silvered
by winding streams, which were tapped at short intervals by
countless irrigating channels, forming a net-work of water
communication unequaled in any other country. Along
these watery veins M^ere thousands of junks, whose gilded
masts seemed to walk through the land, and were mingled
with the spires of the pagodas that stood, one beyond another,
reachinij to the horizon.
It was toward evening when we stood upon the wall, and
the views of the city and the world around were so inter-
esting that we tarried long, almost forgetting that we were
several miles from our hotel. As we passed down through
the walled city, night came on, and darkness prevailed in
the narrow streets. The dim lights glared into the faces of
those within the shops, and we passed by ghostly forms
between the close walls. We knew that Cantonese had
murdered many a European ; and that of all the Chinese, they
probably were the most hostile to foreigners: and the thought
did not reassure us.
Our passage through the city was very tedious, and seemed
to occupy many hours; we hurried our men, as we knew it
was the custom to close the gates at 8 o'clock. It was now
past that hour, and half an hour more elapsed before we
LOCKED WITHIN THE GATES.
217
reached the grim iron barrier that prevented our egress.
The gates were closed, and we were locked in.
We were most anxious to get out, and urged tlie guide to
do his best to pass us through the gates, for ^ve feared that
violence would be offered to us if we remained where we
"the GUIM IRON BARKIER PREVENTED OLR EGREfcS.'
were long, as no European is allowed to remain witliin the
walls after the gates are closed for the night. The guide
went to find the gate-keeper, while the crowd stood staring'
at us. We almost expected every moment that they would
fall upon us, if only for the sake of our money, which would
have afforded them a fine feast for a few days. Before long,
however, relief came. The gaping throng parted — our guide
had returned ; and, better still, he had found the gate-keeper,
who after a little persuasion opened the gate, and we passed
through, glad to leave behind us those gloomy walls and the
ugly crowd within them.
CHAPTER XXIIL
AMONG THE "GODS."
ONE morning, while wandering along one of the principal
streets, we noticed that a great crowd of people had
gathered round a certain large box, in which thej seemed to
take great interest. The scene reminded us of election day
in America; so we formed in line and advanced towards the
box, but on drawing near were startled to behold within it
what appeared to be a corpse. Looking closer we saw that
the creature — wliatever it was — was alive, for its glaring eyes
were fixed upon us with a horrible expression, and riveted us
to the spot. The idea at once flashed across our minds— the
inmate of that box was a criminal, or had offended the
authorities. He might be innocent, but we could not help
him ; so with a word of pity we passed on.
Returning later in the day we found that the throng had
vastly increased; and soon after our arrival the padlocks
were unloosed from the box, and the man removed from the
iron spikes which had penetrated and lacerated his swollen
feet. At this sight the feelings of the crowd became intense,
and the box was broken up and sold as relics ; pieces of the
bottom, in which were the nails, bringing large prices.
AVe took special pains to inquire into the meaning of this
scene, and were informed that a priest from some distant
citv, having been unsuccessful in raising money to build a
temple, had a few days since shut himself up in this manner
as a means of procuring the funds.
On the whole we were not favorably impressed with the
218
THE CUIXESE RELIGION.
219
religion of the Cliinese. The scorpions, dragons, serpents,
lions, and other animals, ranged upon the curving eaves and
roofs of their temple s,
awakened a feeling of hor-
ror rather than devotion ;
while the burning of
incense-sticlcs before scores
of idols in the darkness
within cast gloom over the
mind, which was deepened
by the monotonous music
and the continual beating
of tom-toms by the priests
as they recited their incan-
tations. At times these
priests wandered vacantly
about in their long gowns,
above which projected as
many closely-shaven heads,
on which grew not a single
hair ; indeed their principal
property seemed to consist of razors. They manifested great
interest in showing us that they were not too poor to own
an alms-bowl ; but they did not importune us for a donation,
as almsgiving is considered to be a greater blessing to the
giver than to the recipient. 1 imagined that they passed
their lives in celibacy, as they were all well-provided with
needle and thread as if for an emergency.
Tiie most cheerful sight we witnessed was the bringing in,
by the patrons of the temple, of some roast fowls and pigs,
which were waved before the idols by the priest. A very small
part thereof was then burnt as incense; and the remainder
was set before the idols to satisfy their appetites until
the priests became hungry, which they were before long;
for as we passed out, we noticed them in an adjoining room
enjoying a feast of fat things.
This absurd farce on the part of the priests was not so
THE MYSTERIOUS BOX.
220
ANCESTRAL WORSHIP.
ridicnlons.as a custom that the people have of burning before
the statues and pictures or at the tombs of their ancestors,
paper representations of hats, shoes, garments, money etc.,
which they purchase at a
high price from the priests,
imagining that their ances-
tors, who are now gods,
will kindly give them
credit for the real articles.
We noticed, too, that by
far the larger number of
sacrifices were offered to
the gods of evil, in the
hope of appeasing their
wrath ; the favor of the
good gods being consid-
ered as a matter of course.
The followine: is an exam-
1
ile
PRIEST WITH ALMS-BOWL.
Upon inquiring the
reason why a number of
people were burning
incense on the pathway, we were informed that on that
spot somebody had tripped his foot and had smashed a
basket of eggs. At once the place where the eggs were
broken was supposed to be the abode of an evil spirit whose
wrath must be appeased by incense or even by sacrifice.
"VVe suggested that the unlucky owner of the eggs should
have offered a basket of those articles in a stale condition as
the most appropriate incense for an evil spirit. But a
Chinaman would never do that, or anything else, unless his
ancestors had done exactly the same thing. Those ancestors
were great people according to their ideas. In the temples
we saw the bronze statues of many of them ; they were
fifteen or twenty feet high, and sitting at that. Their size
was in proportion to their position in life and the estimation
in which their descendants held them.
BUDDHISM.
221
"We observed a Cliinaman approaching one of these
images upon all fours, rapping his shaved head frequently
against the floor. This particuhar ancestor had rather a long
nose, and carried his trunk with him ; he was, in fact, a fac-
simile of a Buddhist god.
Tlie Chinese religion is a little mixed. Ancestral worship
and the Buddhism of India
are so joined tliat it is diffi-
cult to tell whether it is one
of his ancestors or an ele-
phant that a Chinaman wor-
shij)S. The white elephant
i3 very sacred to Buddhists,
They believe that innu-
merable Buddhas have
appeared from time to time
to save the world, and
that finally Buddha Sakya- \ ^
muni descended from
heaven as a white elephant
m the sixth century b. c, took the form of a man, and
at once solemnly proclaimed his mission.
Buddhism in India arose in opposition to the much older
worship of Brahma, which divided the people into castes — a
system which at that time had become almost intolerable.
Many bloody struggles resulted from the introduction of the
new religion — Buddhism — which, however, continued to gain
the ascendancy until it became the established religion of the
country. Alexander's invasion of the far East gave a great
impulse to its spread, and about a. d. GG, it was introduced
into China, and by degress spread over the Orient, carrying
the civilization of India to manv a savac^o tribe, and amono:
others to the inhabitants of the island of Japan. Buddhism
did much towards abolishing caste ; and in this sense, at least,
it proved itself a blessing wherever it was introduced.
But by-and-by there came a reaction, and in the seventh
century of the Christian era, Buddhism was rapidly losing
A LONG-NOSED ANCESTOR.
222 SACRED SWIXE.
ground in India, and many of its temples vrere crumbling to
ruin. A century later, and it was almost entirely extermina-
ted, and the laws of caste under Bralimanism re-enacted more
rigorously than ever; but in the Island of Ceylon, lying imme-
diately to the south of India, Buddhism has maintained a
stronghold even to this day.
The essence of Buddha's teachings was that all is deception
and illusion save spirit and mind ; and that the final object of
man is to be delivered from all pain and illuf ion. This is to
be gradually accomplished by dispelling every passion from
the mind — even the desire of existence. After death, this re-
fining process will give the soul birth in a more refined body,
and by continuing to tame the passions and by contemplating
the good and true in the vastnessof the abstract, the soul will
be finally delivered from illusion, and from all further change
by being merged into God.
Among the Chinese, swine are held sacred, and worshiped.
In an enclosure connected with a temple we saw two large
wliite sows, kept for that purpose. They Mere fat, clean
and thrifty, and on the whole, seemed to be respectable beasts. M
They were also intelligent ; for when the Chinese bowed and I
made signs of worship before them, sometimes even going
down on all fours, the animals grunted as if in approval.
"When a boy in the wilds of Western Iowa, I knew a swine
of the gentle sex that would have stood no such tomfoolery.
I used to plague her sometimes when she was in her pen, but
she never seemed to like it. On one occasion while she was
asleep, I reached through a crack of the pen and pulled the tail
of one of her offspring until it squealed. As she sprang up
and towards me, I withdrew my hand, but that didn't satisfy
her. She reared up against the side of the pen, and, giving
a terrible spring, was over and after me before I could get far
away in the direction of the house. She gained on me, and
was right at my heels, when just in the nick of time I saved
myself by jumping into a friendly wagon M-hich stood in my
path. Baffied thus, she stood gazing at me for a while with
frothing mouth and standing bristles, and then trotted peace-
THE GOD OF LONGEVITY.
223
ably back toward her pen. Tlie moral was not lost on me,
and I never again ventured to pull the tails of the pigs.
A PIG-TAIL EXCITMENT.
In one costly temple, entered only by the wealthy, the chief
Btatue was an impersonation of longevity. Ilound the altar
of this gigantic god were ranged numerous votive ofi'erings
inscribed with the names of wealthy citizens, who had placed
these costly tokens here to amuse the god and secure to them-
selves long life. Our Chinese guide politely bowed, suiiled,
and courteously wished us the blessings of this god and a safe
return home. lie was a sensible man and a kind one too ; for
he told our fortunes though we had made no donation either
to him or " Longevity." Having taken a box into his liands
containing a score or more of nicely-painted sticks, he shook
them until one fell upon the floor. This betook to a priest
who, glancing at the characters painted upon it, referred to
the similar Hgurcs in his Chinese bible, and thus read our
fortunes, which were duly translated to us by the guide.
224
TEMPLE OF THE DRAGON".
A man is always considered fortunate "when he bnjs one of
tliese oracular boxes. On the pavement opposite onr Lotel
sat a man engaged in selling them, and ever into onr window
came the dull dead sound of the pegs striking against the
sides of the box as he shook it to attract customers. Occasion-
ally some one, tired of life, or out of employment, halted to have
his fortune told, imagining probably that the fates could nuike
it no worse ; at any rate he was willing to risk a penny on
the chances.
We visited tlie " Temple of the Dragon ; " before its horri-
ble image, parties entering into mutual contracts burn copies
of their agreements seasoned with incense. Chinamen, like
other men, are sharper in business than in anything else; so
they have a living snake as a witness, lest the dragon with
eyes of bronze should fail to see their engagements, or prove
forgetful of them. They are not always very polite to their
gods ; for on one occasion when there was a great drought, they
dragged the god of agriculture out of his temple and over the
parched sands, in hopes of moving his conscience ; but to no
purpose — their god was as helpless as themselves.
SPECIME^■S OF CHINESE ARCHITECTUKE.
I
CHAPTER XXIY.
THE EMPIRE OF THE CELESTIALS.
THE Chinese Empire comprises nearly one-tenth of the
habitable globe and supports two-fifths of its entire
population. The surface of the country is varied, being
generally rough and uneven near the coast, but soon becoming
more level inland. Towards the interior it again becomes
imeven, and finally rises in the background into the snow-
capped peaks of the Yun-ling. Timber is scarce in the more
populated districts, as large forests are found only on the
mountains ; yet the trash picked up here and there, together
with the groves that are grown, and the beds of coal that are
worked in many places in the empire, afford the people a
sufficiency of fuel.
Some of the finest rivers in the world are to be found in
this country. These afford good facilities for inland naviga-
tion, and the same may be said of the numberless canals that
are used for the double purpose of navigation and irrigation.
No people understand the excavation and working of arti-
ficial canals and irrigation better than the Chinese. The
Imperial Canal, — the largest in the world — connects Pekin,
the capital, with Hang-chow ; it is seven hundred miles long
and from two hundred to a thousand feet wide. In some
places it ia carried over low regions between thick and high
embankments. The tow-path is also carried over many
smaller canals, by means of bridges ; and from these smaller
canals extend numerous arms or branches, until at length
they form a complete net-work of navigable highways, or of
smaller streams for the purposes of irrigation.
U 225
226 CANALS AND INLAND COMMERCE.
The inland commerce of China is immense. It is carried
on almost exclusively by means of this great net-work of
canals, and is supposed by some to equal that of all other
nations combined. Her foreign commerce, although insig-
nificant in comparison to her iulaud, amounts to about one
hundred million dollars annually, and might be many times
increased were not the exclusiv^e policy so pertinaciously
clung to by the government. The principal articles of export
are tea, silk, both manufactured and raw, nankeen cloth, and
mats ; besides some minor articles such as fans, fire-crackers,
eea-shells, gold-leaf, etc. Her principal imports are opium,
rice, raw cotton, cotton fabrics, tin, lead, and iron ; besides
jewels from India, and birds' nests, as an article of food,
from the Indian Archipelago.
The Mexican silver dollar is the principal coin of China,
and they seldom pass out of the country when once there,
it being the policy of the government to retain them. To
this end they are bored full of peculiar holes, which are a kind
of official stamp. No paper-money is in circulation, and they
have no gold or silver coin of their own. The gold and
silver coins of England and America are current, and all
kinds of money can be exchanged at the offices of the princi-
pal brokers. They have a brass coin of their own, the value
of which is about one-eighth of a cent. It has a large square
hole in the centre that it may be strung on a grass string and
carried on the arm.
The form of government is monarchical, yet strongly
tinctured with the despotic. It is true the emperor is bound
by certain ancient laws and customs which he could not
disregard without danger, nor could he totally disregard the
remonstrances of his ministers ; yet his subjects must bow
themselves, ko-tow, or knock their heads nine times against
the ground, and literally creep in the dust whenever they
approach him. When he appears in public he is preceded
by two thousand constables, and surrounded by a large body-
guard of live thousand chamberlains — eunuchs, of course —
who are connected with his palace. It is customary for the
THE EMPEROR AND HIS WIVES.
227
emperor to have one legitimate wife, two inferior ones, and
as many concubines as he may desire. The retinue of con-
cubines belonging to the present incumbent is not yet very
great. lie succeeded his father in 18G1, when a small
boy; was married in 1872, and passed from under the united
guardianship of his uncle, mother and aunt, ou the 1st of
February, 1873.
BEFORE THE THRONE.
The emperor selects from among the sons of his three wives
the person he desires to be his successor, but keeps his choice a
secret until his death, lest the favored one should become
reckless, and unworthy. The other descendants of the emper-
or fall lower and lower in the scale of nobility until the
seventh. Then they lose the title of prince, are classed among
the masses at large, and of course are not supported by the
national revenues. However, there are many offices to be
filled, and every subject may become a candidate for office.
There is no place where education does so much for one as in
228
GOVERNMENT OFFICERS.
China. Schools are established throughout the empire, and
the people as a whole are educated sufficiently to read, write
and keep their own accounts. In fact, many are very quick
at figures. Books are general among all classes, and many of
the wealthy have very fine libraries. The press is to a great
extent free, but the publication of licentious matter is severely
punished.
The officers of the empire are called mandarinp and are
divided into the civil and
the military. The official
status of the former is
marked by wearing in the
hat one or more peacock's
feathers, according to rank,
and that of the latter by a
ruby or sapphire on the top
of the cap.
The ■ empire is divided
into eighteen provinces,
each having a particular ad-
ministration, army, and fi-
nance. Each of these prov-
inces is sub-divided into
districts containing an aver-
age of two millions of in-
habitants. These districts
are again divided into de-
partments, and the depart-
ment into circles. The provinces are ruled by governor-
generals, appointed for three years by a board under the di-
rection of the emperor, who examine the qualification of
applicants for oftice. The power of these governor-generals
is checked by a cabinet The various nnnor officers are ap-
pointed in a similar way, even down to the mayors of the
principal cities ; but the officers of the small cities and towns
are elected by the people. The cabinet of the emperor, con-
sists of four chancellors, two assistants, aided by the most
A MANDARIN.
THE SOLDIERS OF THE EMPIRE. 229
renowned scholars, and attended by about fivelinndred clerks.
Tiie emperor himself takes an active part in the labors of this
cabinet, his edicts being published in the Pekin Gazette. Tiie
laws of China are collected into a code which is revised every
five years. It seems to be of little importance whether these
laws are good or bad, as the various officers often overreach
their authority. Edicts by the provincial officers are frequent-
ly issued upon matters already provided for by law, and cases
of collusion of the police with thieves, and corrupt judges, are
not rare; in fact, a large proportion of the men in authority
make their offices pay double or treble its nominal value, by
some underhanded means. In these things the Chinese
officials act much like many of our own men in authority at
home
The military organization of China consists of about 600,000
men, besides about 200,000 Tartars who are at the disposal of
the government. The whole 800,000, however, would not
withstand the charge of a few thousand disciplined troops, for
the Chinese are great cowards, and their army is little better
than a mob. In times of peace the soldiers are quartered here
and therein cities and villages; or they farm little lots of
government land, and make a living as best they can. They
are poorly paid ;the foot soldiers only receiving from three to
four dollars per month, and the horsemen a little over five
dollars. Their arms are of the most primitive kind. The
infantry carry clumsy matchlocks, spears, bows, swords, and
bucklers. The cavalry are armed with shields, helmets,
bows and knives. The cannon of the Chinese are also very
inefficient, but they are beginning to cast heavier guns, and
are also making improvements in their other weapons.
The Tartars, a warlike race, inhabit the country to the north
of China-Proper. Their incursions in former times were so
frequent, that the Chinese adopted the expedient of building
along their entire northern frontier that enormous wall which
has become one of the wonders of the world. It is fifteen
hundred miles long, and thirty feet high, and wide enough to
admit of bix horsemen riding upon it abreast. Brick towers,
230 THE TARTAR INVASION.
forty feet high, are erected at intervals, and are "well-defended
by native soldiers. But this-svall is no longer of any service;
for in the year 1279, after repeated eilbrts, the Tartars suc-
ceeded in placing their own king upon the Chinese throne,
and they maintained possession of tlie empire until a. d. 1368,
when their power was subverted by a revolution headed by a
Buddhist monk of low birth. In 1G15, exasperated by the
assassination of their king by the emperor of China, the
Tartars took part in a civil war which was raging at that time
among the Celestials. They united with the defeated party,
overturned the ruling Chinese dynasty, and again, after years
of internecine warfare, succeeded, in the year 1G04, in making
themselves masters of the empire. Since that time the
nobility of Ciiina have all belonged to a foreign race, which
however, even to this day, is hated by the native population.
When upon the wall near Canton, we saw some of the
Tartar soldiers, and our guide turned away in derision. We
noticed that they were of a lighter complexion than the
Chinese, had more beard, and their countenances bespoke
greater intellectual powers.
From the very iirst the policy of China was an exclusive
one, but there has been some excuse therefor. In Europe,
it has been impossible for any one country to avoid holding
commercial relations with the other. AVars have also been
frequent between nation and nation ; and with them the im-
provements and more advanced thoughts of the one have been
spread over the other. But in China, from the vastness of
her territory, war, excepting the war with the Tartars, has
been mostly intestine. This vastness of territory, where so
many people are united under one system of government, has
prevented China from seeing the advantage of intercourse
with other nations, and has made her feel proud of her
position ; especially so. as many of the improvements of
modern times, such as the compass, porcelain, paper, gun-
powder and printing,were crudely used by the Cliinese many
centuries before they were known to Europe.
THE COOLIE TRAFFIC. 231
Toward the middle of the sixteenth century the Portuguese
began trading a little with tlie neighboring Chinese ishmds;
and in 1583, the Italian Jesuit Ricce was permitted to preach
Christianity to the Chinese, and by partially conforming to
the doctrines of Confucius, he succeeded in making many
converts. A little later the Spanish and the Dutch sent a
few trading vessels to China, but met with poor success. In
1653 the Russians were permitted to trade in the northern
part of the empire. In 1671 the emperor had the whole of
his territories surveyed and mapped out by Europeans.
At different times, treaties have been made in respect to
the toleration of missionaries, and the opening of commercial
intercourse with western nations ; but on account of the
hatred with which foreigners have been hitherto regarded,
these treaties have remained little more than a dead letter,
until within the last few years. Nor was the hatred of the
Chinese altogether without cause. The importation of
coolies into the island of Cuba and a portion of South
America, especially Peru, was a disgrace to every nation
engaged in that infamous traffic. Foreign agents, to secure
their end, have scattered abroad by the thousand hand-bills
in the Chinese language; have gone to the opium and gamb-
ling-houses, and every other place accessible, seeking out
those that were in debt, and in fact, any that could be duped ;
they have offered such unfortunates a few dollars to begin
with, and so much per month for a certain number of years
after arriving in the country to which they were to be taken.
When a gang was ready, they were packed in such close
vessels, that many have died on the voyage, and others have
committed suicide. Upon arriving at their destination they
have been bought and sold, and treated worse than slaves,
and at the end of the term of years for which they were
hired, it was pretended that they were in debt to their owners,
and must work out a new term. Thus they were kept in
perpetual bondage, till they cursed the day on which they
were born. Who can wonder that the Chinese hated their
232
LATE TREATIES.
Christian brethren ? However, by the interference of their
own government, and those of other nations, the coolie traffic,
in this form, has now almost entirely ceased.
By the treaties of 1858, the Chinese government agreed,
in substance, to allow foreigners to travel in China, to recog-
nize resident consuls accredited by foreign powers, to tolerate
Christianity, to protect Christian missionaries, and to open
four more ports to foreign shipping. Since that time, these
treaties have been pretty faithfully observed, various amend-
ments have been made, and several other ports have been
opened to commerce.
CHAPTER XXV.
OYER THE CHINA SEA TO FAETHER INDIA.
IN due course of time we paid a visit to Macao. This is
a Portuguese city, situated near the mouth of the Canton
River, at the extremity of an island ceded to the Portuguese
many years ago as a reward for their assistance in expelling
a Japanese pirate.
There are a few fine buildings in Macao, but the greater
part of the city is built in the Oriental style ; about fifty -five
thousand of the inhabitants are Chinese or half breeds, and the
other ten thousand though mostly Portuguese represent
various nationalities.
We were now restless for new scenes and new adventures,
and again set out on our travels. There were two steamship
lines from China to Europe, owned respectively by the
English and French. For the sake of variety we chose to
patronize the French line, and took passage on one of their
magnificent steamers.
The signal-gun announcing our departure from Hong-
Kong was fired at noon, and, leaving the city behind, we
were soon steaming down the channel, and out upon the
wide expanse of the China Sea. It was not without some
apprehension that we had embarked, for we were to sail
through waters visited at that time of year with typhoons,
and then to set foot upon shores unhealthy and often deadly
to foreigners.
For twenty-four hours the uneven coast of China was still
in sight, and now and then we passed a small island near the
233
234 I^IFE ON THE STEAMER.
mainland. The sea ran high, and the vessel rolled so badly,
that although most of the passengers had been at sea before,
several of thera became sea-sick, and even Caleb's dinners did
not agree with him.
We soon began to feel at home, and M'andered about,
prying into this, and that, as though we were the exclusive
owners of the vessel and all that it contained. "\Ye were not
long in discovering that there were five grades of passengers
on board. The accommodations of the first and second
classes were about the same. No reasonable man could com-
plain of either. The great promenade on the deck, running
the entire width of the vessel and from the stern to midship,
was canvased overhead to keep out the sun, and was occupied
alike by these two classes. The French language preponder-
ated in the first; the English in the second; and although
there was more of sparkle, gesture and smile among the
former, yet as regards intelligence, good manners, and good
dress, the second-class passengers (among whom were Caleb
and myself) were fully their equal.
The accommodations of the third-class passengers were
greatly inferior to those of the first and second ; and when on
deck they occupied that part of the vessel round and near
the hot smoke-stacks. Among these were Portuguese — who
took any kind of passage to save a little, in order that they
might more effectually flaunt their ribbons and sjmrkle their
jewelry when they reached their journey's end ; Germans
with their boisterous laugh, rough language and slouchy
appearance; and a few Dutchmen, fat and jolly, with pi^^es
forever in their mouths.
Chinamen, Indiamen, a few Portuguese, a Dutchman or
two, and some Fi'ench soldiers going to Saigon, made up the
fourth and fifth classes, huddled away at the prow of the ves-
sel, there to subsist on what was left after the other passengers
had been fed. They passed their time away amt)ng monkeys
and tropical birds, and boxes containing fowls and other live
stock to be killed on the voyage. As we went steaming
along, the music of the geese and ducks was mingled with the
RETURNLXG MISSIONARIES.
235
grunt of the swine, the low of the bnfialo, the chattering of
tlie monkeys, the screeching of birds, and the laugh and clat-
ter of the ditferent races of men.
THIRD-CLASS PASSENGKRS AT DlNiNKR.
As we wandered about the vessel, from time to time, some
things struck us more particularly than others. About the
hot boilers, among the third-class passengers, sat from day to
day, a couple of missionaries with their families. All were
dressed to a great extent after the Chinese style, excepting
that the pig-tail was not worn. The parents were always
busy, either talking, reading, writing, sewing, or hearing the
children recite their lessons. Thev were returniniy to En^x-
land, there to spend the remainder of their days.
Kot very far from the missionaries sat a young German
lady, who was nicely dressed and very pretty. 1 marveled
that such a fine-looking lady should take a third-class passage.
Caleb felt rather sorry for her, as she sat in the heat without
any lady-friend with whom to converse in lier own language,
236
LADIES "BOUND FOR SAIGON."
and he several times expressed a wish that he understool
German, 80 that he might talk with her. I noticed too that
she frequently glanced at him as though his acquaintance
would be very agreeable to her. Caleb was a religious young
man, and perhaps she would be glad to talk upon some relig-
ious subject — it might be that she was a missionary. His sym-
pathies for the lonely lady were fully aroused, and there
is no telling what he might have done had not an acquaint-
ance of ours informed him that she was not a missionary, but
was bound for Saigon, (the place where we were next to stop)
and that her moral character was not quite bo good as
it might have been. Caleb thereupon concluded not to learn
the German language on ship-board, but he ever afterward
insisted that the lady had been cruelly slandered.
STATE-ROOM VISITORS.
Among the second-class passengers were a couple of very
handsome and richly-dressed French ladies, one of whom had
a little dog of wliich she seemed to be very fond. One
day as this lady was passing our state-room, while we were
within, the little fellow poked his nose under the curtain in
the doorway and came in to make us a call ; his mistress
immediately came in also — to search for him we supposed
Caleb is very polite to the ladies, so he picked up the little
darling, and emiling, presented him to his fair owner. She
SCANDAL ON SHIPBOARD.
237
expressed her deep gratitude in French, and tlien walked
hesitatingly away.
Snbsecjuently these ladies received many attentions from
some of the Urst-class passengers. One gay young IVench-
"THE captain KRKyUENTLY HOVERED NEAR THEM."
man in particular was much attracted toward them, and when
seated beside them on deck during fine evenings would treat
them to cigarettes, which they smoked with much grace.
Even the captain seemed to be wonderfully pleased with his
fair passengers, and frequently hovered near them.
It is surprising how many stories of scandal circulated
through our steamer. We were even told, confidentially,
that these French ladies were also bound for Saigon, and
that their characters were no better than was that of the
lonely German girl.
On our voyage we occasionally espied a solitary vessel far
out upon the waste of waters. It was like meeting a friend
in a distant land. Had it been later in the season we should
238
TUE MONSOONS— FAKTHER INDIA.
have seen thousands of small Chinese boats, sailing with their
exports to the islands of the Indian Archipelago. As there
are but two monsoons in a year, these boats only make the
round voyage once in twelve months, sailing south during the
latter part of the southern monsoon, and north during the
early part of the northern ; in this way having about half the
year to remain at home.
THE BANKS OF THE SAIGON.
Early in the morning of the fourth day from ITong-Kong,
land was in sight to our right ; it was the coast of Farther
India. Toward noon we were sailing up the Saigon Kiver,
bound for Saigon, in Anam, in a latitude of about ten degrees
north of the equator. The surrounding country was very
low, 60 that the river, as it approached the sea, divided into
UP THE SAIGON RIVEK.
239
several branches. As we sailed aloni^ we noticed tliat the
under brush of tropical growth was so thick as to form a dense
jungle, which the eye was unable to penetrate. In many
places in the midst of the jungle arose large tro])ical trees,
among the branches of which we saw birds of rich and gaudy
plumage, and monkeys jumping from limb to limb, hanging
first by one paw and then by the other, or swinging by the
tail.
Nearer Saigon the country was not quite so low ; and to
our delight the growth of bushes and trees now opened,
giving us glimpses of little bamboo houses and villages, and
of the people who inhabited them. Endless battalions of
ducks marched along the muddy paths leading from the I'iver
to the huts. Small patches of rice, cotton, sugar-cane, indigo,
and tobacco were to be seen ; but they had lost their pride, if
ever they had any, and agriculture, the principal pursuit of
the people, seemed here to have lost all its attractions.
At length we reached Saigon, which is about fifty miles
from the sea, and anchored in the middle of the stream.
Looking down from the deck, we saw numerous natives in
their little boats, and many others on the banks of the river.
CHAPTER XXVI.
FUN AND ADYENTUHE AT SAIGON.
AS we contemplated Saigon and its surroundings from the
deck of our steamer the prospect was dismal enough to
cause our accustomed cheerfulness to become for a while
overcast ; but the jovial remarks of a good-natured acquaint-
ance soon put our gloomy meditations to flight.
While waiting for the heat to abate before going ashore,
we passed the time on deck gazing at the natives, who
paddled around our vessel jabbering to the passengers, and
occasionally we pelted them with oranges. Larger boats,
bringing betel-nuts, stick-lac, elephant hides and bones,
rhinoceros bones, etc., were also rowed to the ship, and
received in return the flimsy blue cotton fabric which, when
made up into loose trowsers and a sort of gown, is the dress
of both men and women. The people had high cheek-bones,
yellowish-brown complexions, and black bristly hair. They
appeared to be abominably lazy, as they lay stretched on their
backs on the bank of the river, in striking contrast to the
more industrious Chinamen, whose tall pagoda, towering
over the city, indicated that theii" numbers here were already
by no means small.
Close to the shore were some fine foreign dwellings, the
navy-yard, the arsenal, and the citadel ; and a well-walled
canal took its course inland, connecting Saigon with the
Cambodia River twenty-four miles away.
Towards evening the soldiers who had disembarked from
our steamer were seen drilling under the shady palms, to the
240
SIGDT-SEEIXG WITU "DOT" AND "DILLON." 241
sound of martial music, and things looked more inviting on
shore. So just as the sun was sinking from our sight wo
decided to visit the city, and were aceoni])anied by a couple
of young Englislimen who were acquainted with the place.
They were old chums, and called each other "Dot" and
"Di'llion."
The natives were on the watch for us, and as we stepped
down to the water's edge, there was a crowding and pushing
among the little boats to secure our patronage. Dot began
to use his cane, striking two or three of them across the
shoulders, and then pointed out a certain boat whose services
he desired to secure; while the rest of them scrambled out of
the way in a hurry. As soon as we were ashore, we secured
a couple of small cabs, one pony and a native driver to each,
Caleb and I riding in one, and Dot and Dillon in the other.
These two gentlemen suggested that we should take a
drive through the suburbs of the city, and to this we readily
agreed, little thinking what a droll adventure awaited us.
We had not gone far when the two friends suddenly halted.
Caleb and myself drove np; and then what an extraordinary
sight met our view ! From yonder huts issued scores of
girls who came rushing towards us! On they came to the
front cab. They gathered round Dillon first ; some grabbed
his hands, some his arms, some liis coat-tail. As they pulled
and tugged away, he swayed to and fro as a sapling in the
wind. I could not conceive what their object could be, or
what was the cause of all this commotion ; but I subsequently
learned that it was the custom of the women and girls, whose
quarter of the city this was, to capture any strangers who
intruded upon their domain, and to hold them in captivity
until they paid ransom.
Dillon was soon taken prisoner. Then all these hungry
wolves were after Dot. lie was dressed from head to foot
in white linen, and he continued to M'iekl his cane to keep
the horrible creatures at bay. They drew back. Again they
closed up, growing bolder and bolder, until one, darting in
from the rear, seized him round the waist. Others immedi-
ately followed suit, and he too was at their mercy.
15
242
AN ENCOUNTER WITH AMAZONS.
They were now at liberty to attend to Caleb and myself.
In a moment their eyes were upon us. " Heavens and earth !
they are coming down here ! " said Caleb. It was too true.
By the dozen they poured down toward us ! Closer and
closer they came. Whither should we run ? Before a second
thought could enter our minds they were upon us. They
ASSAULTED BY AMAZONS.
tried to creep into onr cab. We beat them off. Before we
knew it they were crawling in at the rear. Caleb scampered
out toward the front in such hot haste that one would have
thought a tarantula was under him. There, he was stormed
by others. They had almost overpowered him, when sud-
denly a bright thought rushed across his mind. Snatching
up the driver's whip he seized one of the Amazons by the
hair of the head, and the others fell back afraid. By this
time a she-Hercules had caught me by the coat-collar, and
A STROLL THROUGH THE CITY. 243
was pulling the very life out of me. She leaned baclc, and
Bee-sawed — I heard my coat beginning to rip, and bent
forward, I looked to see the whole collar ripped asunder
tlie next instant. Now she gave a mighty surge as one at
the rear was lifting at my heels, and I came tumbling out
upon the ground ! It was growing serious. To be jerked
about this way by a petticoat — especially such a scanty one —
would never do, I scrambled up with a clenched fist ; when
just at the right moment came Caleb with the driver's whip.
With a few vigorous strokes he scared my enemy away, and
I was free. We entered our vehicle again and drove off
without delay, and this ended one of the fiercest battles I ever
fought with the gentle sex.
Dot and Dillon soon overtook us. We blamed them for
bringing us through such a quarter of the cit}', knowing, as
they must have done, the odd custom of the natives. They
pleaded, however, that they had had the worst of it, for they
bad been forced to pay ransom, while we had escaped with a
few scratches.
After this rare en(?ounter, we were driven into the center
of the city, and a more squalid or more repulsive looking
place we had not seen in all our travels. Some of the
inhabitants in the streets were selling fruit from their dirty
little stands ; some were sleeping, and many others though
awake were doing nothing. Dogs and cats, ducks and geese,
crows and buzzards, were everywhere to be met with in the
streets, and about the doorways; and as darkness came on
these animals, and as far as we could judge many others,
made the evening hideous with their cries.
After dismissing our cabs, we took a stroll through the
city on foot. The women seemed to engage in every branch
of labor known to the Anamese, and we could readily
believe, from appearances, that they were slaves to their
husbands. We noticed every now and then a small Chi-
nese shop, the inmates of which looked like kings in their
palaces in comparison with those around them.
But before we expected it the lights of the city began to
244
AN EVENING'S ADVENTURE.
disappear, and we started at once for the vessel. It was not
Ion w before we found ourselves in a dark street wliicli had no
outlet. Dot had pretended tliat he could speak the native
tongue, and Caleb and I were now anxious that he should
enquire the way to the vessel ; but he said the streets were
so crooked that the people would be unable to tell anything
satisfactory. We groped our way along to another street,
when suddenly our two leaders tumbled headlong into a
ditch, but quickly extricated themselves. As Dot, who was
one of them, still neglected to enquire the way, I naturally
concluded that he was a fraud and no linguist.
We now tried another street, and as Caleb and the linguist
would take the lead no longer, Dillon and myself led ofi'at a
good speed ; but before long we stumbled over something
and went sprawling to the ground, and Caleb and Dot came
AN ADVENTUUE I.N TllK DAllK.
tumbling after us. As we regained our feet, Caleb, who
had sprained his wrist in the fall, said in a rufHed tone: —
" I should think these natives might know better than to
sleep out doors in the streets."
IN A HORNETS' NEST. 245
The men or women whoia we had stumbled over were
awake by this time, and at once suspected us of conspiring
against their huts and worldly goods; and Dot, too agitated
to remember their language, if he ever knew it, cried out : —
"We are lost ! — can you tell us the way to the river?"
But they could not understand, and many others who
were awakened by the noise came flocking round us.
I now seriously requested Dot to ask them in their own
language the way to the river. lie promised to do so, and
shouted : —
'■'■ Relng na hong kroicl sonh?^'' Then he paused for a
reply, but none came that was intelligible to Dot. So he
tried again : —
"Don't you understand? Krowl, the r'w er, sonJc reing,
the steamer, you cus-ed fools; have you forgotten 3'our
mother tongue ? — can't you tell us the way to the steamer ? "
The vicinit}' was now alive with angry and threatening
natives who supposed their huts were to be burned, or at
least ransacked, without delay; so 1 said: —
" They have forgotten their mother tongue, and we had
better get clear of them. There is no knowing how many
brickbats are about to be hurled at our heads ! "
The advice was acted on promptly, and we got away
without being molested. Soon, liowever, we came to a dark
unearthly-looking place which appeared to be a suitable
abode for hobgoblins and gl:osts. Another retreat was
precipitately made, and at last, luckily, we got on to a street
which led down to the river. We aroused some natives who
were asleep in their little boats, and in a few minutes
afterwards were safely on board our steamer.
Our steamer was to leave the next day, and as I wanted to
buy a pair of gaiters Caleb and I started for the city early in
the morning. Proceeding to the French part thereof, we
entered a fashionable shoe-shop, and Avere gladdened at find-
ing that we were to be waited on by a handsome young French
lady — such a one as had been for years my ideal. She was
in fact all that my glowing imagination had ever pictured.
246
PULLING ON "ZE LEETLE SHOE."
She could talk a little English, and graciously asked me what
size I wore.
"Number six," was my reply.
In a moment I was trying on a gaiter so numbered, but it
was smaller than that size usually is, or my foot was larger ;
anyway it didn't go on. 1 was about to ask for a larger pair
when she smilingly said : —
YOUR FOOT VKRY SMALL
" Pull on 26 shoe a leetle. Your foot very small."
I had been pulling; and I knew my foot was not small,
but I did not feel like contradicting it, after such a compli-
ment. So I concealed my efforts as much as possible, but
tugged away with the strength of an ox. I noticed the shoe
ripping slightly on the side next to Caleb, but he did not see
it and it was almost on. If I had paused for breath the
reputation of my foot would have been forever ruined — at
least in the lady's eyes.
' Zere," she said when the shoe was finally on, " what did
MISCHIEF AND THE BOOTS. 247
I telz you ? I knew your foot was small. Try on ze other ;
ze difficulty much less."
1 was beginning to think my foot was really a small one,
but still I doubted the expediency of putting on the other
shoe, and for a moment I hesitated. Noticing this she re-
marked :
" Zere no difficulty wiz your foot ; at first I noticed your
foot very small."
I hesitated no longer; but soon discovered that the fit was
to be closer than the other one was, and soon saw that the
shoe was beirinnine: to tear, Caleb noticed it at once, and was
just going to speak when I gave him a sly wink.
"Zere no difficulty," said the lady, "just pull on ze shoe
a leetle. "When zay fit tight, ze foot look bootiful."
I was so hot that the perspiration rolled oif my forehead
in beads, but nevertheless I tugged away as earnestly as
before. Rip went the elastic, enlarging the opening so that
with another effort the shoe went on. Without waiting for
another compliment 1 asked the price, for I wanted to pay it
and be off before the lady discovered that wvj feet were large
enough to tear her shoes.
Bidding her good morning I walked away as carefully as
possible, but was aware that my shoes were tearing at every
step. As 1 closed the door I caught a parting glimpse of
the lady and from the way she shook with repressed laugh-
ter I really believed we had in some way greatly amused her.
" I really never noticed before how small your feet were, "
said Caleb as we reached the street.
"What homely things those French women are anyhow;
I always supposed some of them were good-looking" I
replied.
Just then one of my feet popped out at one side, and rested
partially upon the ground. There was no going any further
with those shoes on, so I sat down upon a large stone, pulled
them off, flung them upon the ground, and put on va^ old
boots.
SttS A NOTE FOR MADEMOISELLE.
" Your feet are growing smaller every day," said Caleb ;
" At one time a number six was tight for you, but now you
wear it without any trouble."
I paid no attention to him, but pulled out my pencil and a
piece of paper, and wrote a note, which I put into one of the
shoes; then I wrapped them up, and started for the shop,
Caleb M'alking along by my side. When opposite the door
I tossed them upon the steps, and walked on ; but Caleb, glanc-
ing back, saw the young lady come to the door, and pick
them up. The note ran as follows : —
Madam : — I always admired a small bhoe, and never felt well in one that
was broad and loose. " My foot iz very small," and I cannot wear these
shoes, riease sell them to some one with a large foot.
Yours, " Wiz a small foot."
It was now too late to think of visiting a second shoe-store,
and we hastened back to the steamer, reaching it but a short
time before all was ready for a start.
Farther India is divided into three divisions — Anam, of
which Saigon is an important town, Burmali, and Siam.
Siam is the largest of the three, and has a population of
eight millions. It is watered by several important streams,
one of which passes through the birthplace of the celebrated
Siamese twins. The valleys of the rivers equal the Kile in
richness of soil, and yield abundant crops whene\er cultivated.
The dwellings of the Siamese consist principally of huts
the sides and roofs of which are covered with leaves. The
wealthy natives live in palaces covering several acres of
ground, and built of white brick, ornamented with gilding,
carvings, pictures, gold, silver and glass. These palaces with
their apartments for wives and servants, are surrounded by
high walls, within which are charming grounds with flowery
beds, and shady walks. Among the common people few
have more than one wife ; but the rich bring to their palaces
scores, and even hundreds. The first wife is the mistress of
the house, all the rest being subject to her authority. The
wife is seldom seen out in company with the husband, and
even then is always kept in the background. Kor does she
SIAMESE CUSTOMS.
249
dine with him, but, as a Bervant, waits upon him crouching
on her knees and elbows.
Social distinction is represented bj numbers. The lowest
slave receives the number five, as the representative of liis
social position. The next above him is numbered ten, and so
on to the second ruler, or
viceroy, whose number is
one hundred thousand;
while far above numerical
representation is the king
on the throne, before whom
all crouch and crawl in the
dust. To him an annual
service of three months is
given by all his subjects,
and it has been estimated
that one-third of the pop-
ulation are his slaves,
either by capture, birth, re-
demption from the penalty
of the law, or on account of
debts contracted by gamb-
ling, or otherwise.
Villages of thousands are
composed of t h o s e c a p- ^ ^'^^'^^^ ™'^'^^-
tured in war, and the chains of convicts are continually heard
clanking in the different cities; while the men frequently
sell their wives and children, and even themselves. The
only relief to this gloomy life is found in sports, plays and
holidays, which all seem to enjoy.
The most honorable mode of disposing of the dead, is by
burning; while their mourning emblems are the shaved head
and the wearing of white robes.
In general appearance the Siamese bear a strong resemblance
to the Anamese. They are indolent, dishonest, and ignorant
yet peaceable, and respectful toward the poor and the aged.
They stain their teeth black, and sometimes serrate them.
250 ABOUT BURMAH.
The males shave the greater portion of their heads, only leav-
ing a stili' tuff on the top, which they allow to grow to the
length of two or three inches. The ladies wear their hair
short, and frequently uproot a narrow line encircling the head.
Burmah lies to the northwest of Siam, and although the
British have taken possession of its most fertile portion, and
its only sea-coast, yet in many places the natural productions
are abundant, and the forests are fine and flourishing.
Agriculture is yet in a very primitive state; garden vege-
tables, fruits, and crops, are cultivated with little or no skill,
and the people live chiefly upon wild fruits, the young
shoots of trees, and the succulent roots of various plants;
mangoes, oranges, pineapples, custard- apples, figs, the bread-
fruit, the papaw, and the plantain, grow almost spontaneously,
and answer as a substitute for bread.
The circulating medium of the country consists of gold,
silver, and lead. These are used in their native state, it
being necessary every time they change from hand to hand, to
have them weighed by bankers. As the weighing costs three'
and-a-half per cent of the value of the article in question,
many are driven to the necessity of barter and trade, rice being
exchanged for cotton, and cotton for tobacco, etc.
The government of Burmah is one of the most despotic
of despotisms. It is even worse than that of Siam or Anam.
The king dispenses justice according to his will, even to the
infliction of the death penalty. Under him, however, is a
court which frequently tries cases, thus saving him the trouble.
This court charges ten per cent of the property in question
as fees ; consequently trials are seldom brought before it.
The prevailing religion in these three divisions of Farther
India, is Buddhism. In Anam, however, but few profess this
religion, the masses of the people caring but little for a
worship in which the most abject superstition preponderates.
In Siam and Burmah the old doctrines of the Buddhist religion
have been kept more free from admixture with other religions
than in China, yet missionaries have made better progress.
THE TEMPLES OF SIAM.
251
The special object of worship among the Siamese is the white
elephant.
The temples of Siam eqnal in beauty and splendor any that
can be found in Asia. Amid parks and groves their great
white walls loom up, and from their serrated roofs rise
wondrous domes and spires, inlaid and gilded with glittering
designs of various descriptions, while continual music from
nir-rnng bells comes floating out upon the breeze from unseen
re::;esses in the roofs and domes, fllling the w4iole atmosphere
with mysterious sounds. One of these temples contains
nine hundred images of Buddha, the most noticeable of which
is in a reclining posture. It is of the extraordinary length
of one hundred and fifty-eight feet. The whole form is beau-
tifully inlaid and adorned with pearls and gold.
AM A.NAM AKISTOCRAT.
CHAPTER XXYII.
VOYAGE TO THE LAKD OF THE MALAYS.
WE left our anchorage at Saigon, and floated down the
river towards the ocean ; the motion of the stream
being 6o gentle that during the night we were hardly con-
scious of the movement of the vessel.
Next morning the iirst objects that attracted my attention
when I opened my eyes, were my old boots. They had
received a good polishing, and seemed dearer to me than
ever. I rose at once and made my way towards the bath-
room, where a Chinese attendant stood ready to minieter to
my wants. Everything in this department was kept in as
perfect order as the most fastidious could wish.
Having taken a dip in the eea-water which came spouting
in through the mouth of a bronze-headed sea-gull, I stepped
on deck, where a number of European ladies and gontlemcn
scantily and airily clad in their long Chinese night-gowns,
and with nothing on their feet but low grass slippers, were
slowly promenading, or lazily reclining on the long sedan
Bettees.
Suddenly there is a hurrying to and fro, a hasty putting on
of more closely-fitting garments, and a general preparation
for using knives and forks. The breakfast-bell has sounded,
and we prepare to enjoy our morning meal.
After breakfast, and occasionally when conversation lagged
and jokes became heavy to all except their authors, six or
eight of us would bre.".k the monotony by a game of "frog."
This game consisted of pitching quoits at a curious-looking
252
DECK AMUSEMENTS.
253
metal frog wliich was perched upon a box on tlie deck. His
mouth was wide open, and he stared at us with his green
eyes, which never even winked as the missile approached
liini. Many a drub did his countenance receive, and once in
a great while he succeeded in catching and swallowing a
quoit; but the feat was a rare one, and whenever one wa3
PLATING FROG
heard rattling down his throat, he was greeted with shouts
of applause from his audience.
Then we amused ourselves by watching the children play-
ing "log." M:iny a mother was minus her spool of thread
on account of that game. Thus it was plaj-ed : — Having
attached a cork or piece of paste-board to the end of a string
they threw it overboard, when the speed of the vessel rapidly
whirled the spool which they held on a knitting-needle.
"When all was unwound, a motley group of European, Chi-
nese, and Malay urchins formed in line Avith the tliread on
their shoulders, drawing in the "log" — those from the front
continually running abaft to form in the rear.
I never was in any place without taking a fancy to some
lady or other. There was a suitable object of interest now
on board our vessel. But, unfortunately for me, she seemed
254
CALEB'S PROMENADE.
to prefer Caleb's company to my own. I could hear it as
Blie sang her Italian songs, I could see it in her glances, and
in her preference to promenade with him at evening.
Sometimes when it was quite rough, and they went stagger-
ing along the deck together, I tried to convince myself that
/ would not on any account be troubled with lady-company
at such a time ; but I never quite succeeded. It amused me
to watch them ; Caleb seemed to have taken a fancy to tread
upon his friend's dress, and I expected every moment to see
him tear it from her waist, while she seemed rather to enjoy
balancing herself against him in a most tantalizing way. I
cannot say that I should have shed many tears if they had
both rolled overboard together.
DOT WINS THE NIGHT.
About this time Dot, who was still our fellow-traveler,
had some trouble with his room-mate — a fat German. The
latter wanted the window of the state-room closed one night,
but did not say so, preferring to get up and shut it when he
THE MALAY PENINSULA. 255
thought Dot was asleep. Dot, on his part, persisted in
opening it, giving his friend to understand that he did not
know how it came to be closed and that he suspected some
one was playing a joke on them. Finally Dot, after opening
it for the fourth time, seized the water pitcher and vowed he
would pour its contents over anything or anybody who
undertook to meddle with it again. He carried the day, or
rather the night, and the window remained unmolested.
On the fiftli morning after leaving Saigon, just as day was
breaking, we passed through the group of islands on the
Malayan shore. They presented a charming spectacle, — ■
fresh with the richest of tropical verdure, and alive with the
songs of birds. To our left were islands near and far ; those
in the distance, from the smoothness and soft blue tint of
the waters arc un 1, appearing to rest upon the clouds. As
we sailed through these placid waters, upon whose face not
even a ripple was to be seen, or passed immediately by the
shore of one of those green islands, or caught sweet glimpses
of others in the distance, we almost forgot that these were
scenes of earth and that we were earthly beings. It was a
vision that we could never forget.
Later in the morning we sailed up the channel — in some
parts only half a mile wide — between the Malay Peninsula
and the island of Singapore, which belongs to the English,
and is the great entrepot between Europe and the East
Indies, as well as between Europe and China. " Look ! "
cried one; and immediately all eyes were turned to the right
of the vessel's prow where a tiger was swimming across the
channel. From our speed we seemed likely to head him off;
but he was a good swimmer and put forth all his strength.
We could see his great, fiery eyes as he passed immediately
in front of us. At last he reached the island, shook his wet
hide, and disappeared in the jungles. We were told that at
times the animals swam across to the nearest islands in such
numbers as to defy the weapons of the natives.
It was not long before we reached the English port of
Singapore, w'here vessels of .almost every nation were loading
256
THE HARBOR OF SINGAPORE.
and unloadinf^ cargoes of coffee, tea, nutmegs, spices — in
short all the riches of the richest countries of the world.
Here the white man, the jellow man, the brown man, and
the black man frequently stood together, giving ample
opportunity for the study of the various nationalities of the
earth.
Thronging upon the shore, were the brown Malays selling
to the passengers, animals, birds of splendid plumage, and
shells beautiful and endless in variety ; and all going as
cheap as dirt. "VVe contented ourselves with merely buying
some corals for bouquets to adorn our state-room. All around
in their little boats were these same Malavs, divino^ after
copper coins as they were thrown into the water by the
passengers. As a vessel departed, scores of them buzzed
along in its Avake darting after an occasional coin until the
steamer left them far behind. A coin from our steamer was
4
A iltTtumC SHOWER.
thrown far out on the water, and a score of boats started for
the place where it would strike. A collision seemed inevit-
able, but down went the divers, head-foremost, three or four
at a time, reminding one of a great meteoric shower.
Pretty soon, up popped one of them holding the coin out
between his thumb and finger, and the others shortly followed
him.
MALAY DIVERS.
257
Two of the divers in a tiny boat came close to our vessel
motioning for us to throw over a coin ; and one of tlieni
climbed on deck by means of a rope. As he perelied on the
railing he gave us to understand that he would dive down if
sufficient encouragement was given him to do so ; thereupon
a coin was pitched into the water. Instantly he placed his
hands together above his head so as to cut the waves, and
plunged head-foremost from the ship. He was under the
water longer than we thought he should be, and a feeling of
uneasiness, then of suspense was evident among the passen-
gers. But he came up all right at last, with the coin between
his teeth.
16
CHAPTER XXVni.
EXCURSION'S IN SINGAPOEE.
WHEN Mr. Darwin gets through with his descent of
monkeys or ascent of man, I wish he would impart
some useful knowledge by tracing the origin of the genius
who drive people around in vehicles for pay.
You see that race in every part of the world ; they all evi-
dently spring from one common stock, and take to their pro-
fession as kindly as young ducks to the water. They are
white in one part of the world and black in another, but
always as innocent as doves. I think I cherish toward them
a feeling akin to that which I hold toward other land-pirates.
I avoid them as much as possible, but when fate throws me
into their hands, 1 close my eyes and resign myself.
I was about to say that we hired one of these guileless
creatures to convey us from the landing-place to the city of
Singapore ;but on reflection I think it must have been a sort
of copartnership, in which we were to do the suffering and he
receive the pay. When we ofi'ered ourselves as his victims
quite early in the morning, he understood English and could
speak it fluently. Soon he showed signs of relapsing — like
a converted Hindoo — into his original condition, and like
the Hindoo could only be spasmodically reclaimed by a period-
ical reward for his faithlessness.
When we had bargained with him and obtained an honor-
able adjustment of all our differences, he carefully loosened
every weak part of the harness, and then started off with us,
cracking his whip ; but no sooner had we passed the few
houses skirting the shore than our troubles began.
258
A DRIVE TO SINGAPORE.
259
Just as we were entering into a jungle of high cane, snap
went one of the traces. The poor driver looked at the broken
leather, wringing his hands, and exclaiming piteously that
he must pay full damages out of his own wages. AVe consult-
ed together, and agreed that if one rupee would mend the
matter we would sink that amount more than we had origin-
ally intended to. lie took the money on the spot, for fear,
as he said, that it might be forgotten later in the day, as his
own memory was bad. lie was so grateful, as he tied up his
harness with strings which he happened to have at hand,
that we felt the pleasure of one who does a good deed.
ON THE ROAD TO SINGAPORE.
"We were soon passing along the road which bordered the
river; the banks on either side were covered with luxuriant
vegetation, while along the road a constant stream of ox-carts
slowly wended their way, bearing to the steamers coal and
other products of the island.
At last we reached the city of Singa])ore and found that it
260 AMONG THE MALAYS.
lay upon both sides of the river, some three miles from
where our steamer lay at anchor. One portion -was ahnost
entirely inhabited by Chinese, who gained a livelihood by
sellinj^ edible bird's-nests, spices of all kinds, cocoanuts,
bananas, and other tropical fruits. The Europeans lived in
one quarter by themselves, residing in beautiful mansions
fitted with every convenience. The Chinese huddled together
in miserable little shanties, while the Malays, who also lived
by themselves, did not consider any habitation necessary.
I was told, that when a Malay deliberately washes himself,
his friends make ready for his burial — because they know
he is going to commit suicide. How true this may be I can-
not say, but we judged from appearances that cleanliness
formed no part of their religion. In tlie matter of wearing
clothes they seemed very independent. Some had on a sort of
bathing-dress fastened by a flashing girdle.
While hunting up our driver, who had dismounted from
his seat and gone off without asking leave, we had an oppor-
tunity to see the inside of the Malayan houses. As we enter-
ed one of them the ladies of the hut were preparing them-
selves for a promenade, which they did by throwing a sort
of blue veil over the face, so as not to frighteu the opposite
sex — I suppose — by their ugliness. In another residence we
saw a Malay barber pulling the hairs from a customer's chin
with a pair of tweezers. If two or three liad not been ahead
of us, we might have listened to the proprietor's blandishments
and been denuded also.
In a third hut sat our cabman gambling away the rupee of
largesse which we had bestowed upon him. His knowledge of
English had forsaken him with his money, and nothing short of
the redemption of the coin by us seemed likely to restore his
peace of mind. This dane, he bowed reverently, put it in
his pocket, and then led us forth to a feast of intellect in a
larger hut where a great crowd had assembled to witness a
cockroach-fight.
As we pushed our way after our champion, his voice was
loud and he held his rupee defiantly aloft. He grew reserved
AT THE MERCY OF JEHU.
2G1
however when he had again lost it by betting, and slowly
walked off" toward his horse. We followed him, but his
startled looks when he came in sight of the animal made ns
feel uneasy. Striking an attitude, he slowly approached the
beast and bending low before his head, smote his own breast,
and began gnashing his teeth. He then opened the steed's
mouth, and beckoned for us to come and look down his throat.
HE IS HUNGRY
" His throat looks all right," said T, after examining it.
Then the man fell to the ground and acted like a horse with
the wind-colic. On recovering his senses again, he informed
us that under no consideration could he allow his animal to
proceed unless we devoted the sum of one shilling for proven-
der. It was hot and we could not walk ; so we made a virtue
of necessity, and yielded. It was weakness, nothing else,
that caused us to surrender, for we knew well enough that
the rascal would go ofiE immediately and waste the money
upon himself.
We followed him again, and this time caught him sitting
beside a small wooden platform betting as before on the
result of a fight between two cockroaches. Ever and anon
an owl-faced Malay drove the two roaches together, until
each seemed possessed with the conviction that it was to the
2G2
A MALAYAN AREXA.
other tliat he was indebted for his evil day. Strong and
gamy fellows were these roaches, and not less than throe
inches in length. It was impossible to determine from ap-
pearances which was the better roach ; but favoritism was
bestowed on one which by some mischance had been deprived
of a leg. This apparent disad-vantage seemed to improve
his cliance', and the death of his antagonist justified the faith
reposed in him by his backers.
GO IT YOU CRIPPLE
At the close of this strange encounter, onr driver, who had
added to his shilling by betting on the victorious cockroach,
offered to show us a lizard fight for the paltry smn of half
a crown. This favor we respectfully declined.
The darkening sky, as we emerged from the shed, admon-
ished us of the necessity of obtaining shelter in the European
quarter from a coming storm, but our tormentor insisted on
feed ins: his steed before we started. While waitino-, we
were rewarded for the delay by seeing a woman practicing
the prevailing custom of flattening her children's noses.
She had two children — both little girls; the oldest not
exceeding the tender age of eighteen months. On the face
of each, a flat piece of wood Avas bound over the nasal organ
by a string which was tied at the back of the head.
PREPARING FOR A STORM. 2G3
"We felt no small amount of disgust when our guide pre-
pared himself for the storm by divesting himself of his
clothing which he carefully placed under the seat in the cab.
Just as we were comfortably seated he remembered his money,
and had to overhaul his garments for the treasure, which, when
found, he placed in his mouth for safer keeping. We justi-
fied his lack of confidence b}' throwing his garments over-
board with our canes, and no entreaty of his could persuade
ns to reconsider our action. "We had stipulated that no one
but ourselves should occupy that vehicle inside, and we were
firm in the maintenance of our rights. Our driver, how-
ever, could not be brought to regard matters in a proper
light. He closed the door violently, muttering anything but
blessings as he did so.
Simultaneously with the banging of the cab door came a
sharp flash of lightning, then a loud clap of thunder, and
after the thunder a torrent of rain which seemed like a
second deluge. The crowded squares, streets, and alleys,
became mud pools and open sewers through which the
accumulated filth swept in torrents, while the inhabitants
dispersed with rat-like celerity into their thatclied burrows.
Long before the rain had ceased pouring upon the earth,
we had reached our quarters, and were inwardly rejoicing at
beincr finally rid of our troublesome driver whom we trusted
we should never see again. In this, however, we were
mistaken ; for the next morning as we left the hotel to make
an excursion into the country plantations, foremost among
the hackmen was that troublesome Jehu. To save his
feelings and our own we jumped into the very first vehicle
that came in the way, which to our infinite disgust w'e found,
when too late, was the one belonging to the enemy. lie did
not give us a chance to escape, but instantly leaped on to his
seat — crack went the whip, and we were off ! *' Bismillah ! "
we exclaimed — it is the will of heaven — and then we closed
our eyes and resigned ourselves to fate.
This resigned state of mind however was not of long
duration, for Jehu soon had us among the plantations of
264 MYSTERIOUS DOGS.
cocoanut trees, bananas, pineapples, etc., and was busying
himself in pointing out all that might interest us, when
suddenly he halted beside a great pile of cocoanuts, and
persuaded us to alight from our carriage, break open some of
the fruit, and drink the delicious milk. He was still extol-
ling the sweetness and goodness of these nuts, which he said
were free for anyone to take if they pleased, and we had just
begun to taste the milk, when suddenly a pack of dogs, fol-
lowed by a native with a huge club, mysteriously issued
from a hut close by. The moment Jehu saw them, he
exclaimed with much gesticulation : —
" Me a rupee ! me save you ! "
"We needed no argument, but hastily tendered the money,
without a word. Immediately our honest friend drew forth
a much smaller coin, tossed it to the native, and in an
instant, as if by magic, the dogs forgot their wrath, and the
man his anger, and we were left alone. We saw at once that
we were again the victims of an abominable swindle.
"With child-like simplicity, and with all the appearance of
having just performed a virtuous act, Jehu now attempted
to persuade us to take a drive out to see the monkeys sport-
ing among the trees, adding that it was good fun to get
cocoanuts from those eccentric creatures. All the stratagem
that was requisite, he said, was to throw stones at them,
when they, in return, would aim cocoanuts at our heads ; and
all danirer could be avoided by a little dodging on our part.
We agreed to go, but no sooner had we done so than our
extortionate friend announced that it would be impossible
for him to conduct us to the abode of the monkeys unless
we first gave him a little pecuniary encouragement. After
much confabulation this difficulty was at last adjusted, and
we were once again in motion.
We rolled on through forests of cocoanut trees, which
were nicked up the sides to enable the natives to climb them.
Thousands of the fruit lay scattered upon the ground, and
we learned subsequently that the monkeys had clawed holes
in the "eyes" of these nuts, in order to get at the milk
AMONG TOE MON'KEYS. 2G5
inside, as they had seen done by travelers and others passing
through the forest.
At length we espied something moving among the branches
of the trees — it was evidently some creature trying to conceal
itself. We guessed at once that it was our friends the
monkeys, but did not care to appear too near them in a hurry.
Presently we saw one little hairy head, and then another,
peep out from among the branches. AVe waved our hats,
and made grimaces, and threw a few small stones at the
little rascals, who chattered and grinned, and then ran farther
up the tree ; but not a single nut did they throw down.
At first we supposed that they took Jehu, who did not
look altogether unlike them, for one of themselves, and were
afraid of hurting liiin if they threw down the fruit; so we
Bent him back to the cab. Then we yelled, and roared, and
hurled sticks and stones up into the trees with all our might,
expecting that now the nuts would fall; but all in vain.
The monkevs in some things are almost as shrewd as men,
and we came to the conclusion that this trick had been
played upon them so often that at last they had seen through
it, and did not care to waste their supplies.
When we returned to the cab I desired Jehu to drive us
to the outskirts of the island, as we wished to see somethinor
of tlie natives living on the coast. He accordingly did so,
and we were very much interested in what we saw. We
found the people living in a state little advanced beyond
barbarism, doing no work, and caring as little for to-morrow
as the monkeys we had left behind us in the forest. They
subsisted chiefly upon roots and herbs, and moved from place
to place as the stock of food was exhausted.
We also examined their boats. They are used as much
for places of abode as for a means of transit. From end to
end they measured about twenty feet. At one end was a
fire-place, and at the other a sort of awning made of matting,
which served as a sleeping-apartment. There the whole
family of six or eight persons, with the dog, the cat, or any
other live stock that happened to be there, were accustomed
266
NATIVE LIFE IN MALAY.
to repose; while in the middle of the boat were stored the
various domestic utensils. How blissfully lazy, how happy
and contented they seemed, living thus upon the bounties of
nature and drifting aimlessly over the smooth waters, fanned
by the soft breezes of an eternal spring !
BOAT LIKE IN MALAY.
Here and there we espied some boats, larger than the rest,
and different in appearance. We were informed that these
were pirates; and not wishing to be in too close proximity
with them, we returned inland. Piracy, however, will not
long be known on that coast, for the settlements on the
laro:er islands are workins; radical cliancjes ; and English gun-
boats are teaching Mohammedan pirates that the time is past
when they could commit with impunity those deeds of
cruelty and rapine which have gained for them such an
unenviable notoriety.
Toward night we returned to our steamer, which resumed
her journey the next day.
CHAPTER XXIX.
CEYLO]^'S ISLE.
EVERT revolution of the steamer's -srheel now brought
us nearer our home, though it was still more than twelve
thousand miles away. All the afternoon our tlioughts natu-
rally wandered to our far-distant native land; every kind of
conversation in which we engaged invariably merged in this
same topic ; and when night came on, it was the subject of
our dreams.
The next morning all the pleasant scenes which had visited
our pillows while we slumbered were quickly dispelled by the
sad intelligence that during the night one of our fellow-
passengers hud slept his last sleep, and was now about to be
buried in the bosom of the ocean. "With serious faces we
hastened on deck, and found that one of the missionaries
before referred to, had already begun a brief service for the
dead. The corpse, wrapped in a winding-sheet, was lying
upon the deck, one end of whicli projected over the side
of the vessel; and the missionary was repeating those sacred
words " I am the resurrection and the life." At that moment
the other end of the plank, which was supported by two
sturdy sailors, was slowly raised, and the body of the sleeper
sank to its last resting-place, in the depths of the sea. Heavy
leaden weights hnd been attached to it, in order to ensure
its sinking to the bottom, and thus escaping the jaws of vo-
racious sharks which were prowling about the vessel.
We were now sailing up the strait, between Malaya and
the Island of Sumatra, with a range of mountains on either
267
2GS
IN THE BAY OF BENGAL.
hand. That extending along the coast of Sumatra rose np in
grand proportions, seeming at both extremities to merge into
the infinite, but owing to its distance we could see but little
of the active volcanoes that heaved and exploded along its
sides and from its peaks. Two days later we were sailing out
A BURIAL AT SEA.
of tlie strait close to the beautiful Nicobar Islands in the
Bay of Bengal. These soon disappeared, and our noble
vessel, bound for Ceylon, ploughed its way through the broad
wilds of the Indian Ocean.
A large number of Dutch people joined us at Singapore,
to return to their native land for a few months during the
unhealthy season. Many of the richest islands of the East
Indies belong to Holland ; and among them are Java, Banca,
and the Spice Islands. Sumatra, Celebes, Borneo, Timor, and
New Guinea are in partial possession of the Dutch. Java
is the chief commercial and political island of the East Indies ;
its capital is Batavia. These Dutch passengers were quite
THE FRENCHMAN'S ORIENTAL WIFE.
269
jolly and sociable, and told us about vast quantities of coffee,
sugar, spices, pepper, indigo, India-rubber, and edible birds'
nests, whieb were exported from Batavia ; and of camphor,
nutmegs, cloves and guttapercha, from Sumatra.
TUB SICK FKKNCHMAN.
There was also on board our vessel a sick Frenchman,
returning to Europe for his health which improved consider-
ably during the voyage. He was accompanied by his Chinese
wife who bestowed on him much care and attention. Tiirou^h
the livelong day she sat by his bedside to attend to hig wants,
and when he was able to walk about a little, she supported
him as best she could. Her affection seemed all tlie more
striking, since she was brought along merely to wait upon
the sick man.
These Oriental wives are nearly always left beliind, but
semi-oriental children, especially boys, often accompany their
fathers to Europe. Is it that men care more for their children
than their wives? There were many such children on board
our vessel, some from China and Japan, some from Farther
India, and some from the East India Islands; their droll
games afforded me a great deal of amusement.
Taken altogether the passengers on our steamer at this
270
THE "SPICY BREEZES" OF CEYLON.
time were a varied and interesting set, representing not
only many nations and countries, but the dilf'erent classes
thereof. Conspicious among them were a party of aristo-
cratic Malays, one of whom was said to be a genuine princess.
In her appearance and behaviour she seemed worthy of the
high honor.
A PRINCESS Oi" MALAY.
When we were yet a hundred miles from Ceylon, the
odors of cinnamon and spices came floating upon the breeze ;
and in due time this green and beautiful isle came within our
view off to the northwest. A little later, and the city of
Point De Galle smiled upon us as it sat, with its citadel and
light-house, upon a point of land extending into the sea.
Before us the great waves from the ocean were rolling into
the indented bay, dashing high upon the rocky beach, and
tossimr the anchored vessels from side to side, while their tall
masts swayed to and fro like forest trees during a storm.
This port was rockj^ and dangerous, and when a mile away
A DAZZLING DISPLAY.
271
we saw a pilot, iu a little boat rowed by a couple of natives,
coming to guide us into the harbor. Ilis boat was quite
narrow and very high above the water, and was kept from
being capsized by the waves, by fastening the ends of two
long poles to one side of the boat while the other ends were
fastened to a log which floated alongside.
v «•
THE PILOT AiND IHS UOAT.
TVe were soon anchored safely in the middle of the bay,
and scores of the natives, with boats similar to those just
described, came rowing towards us. Some sought to carry
the passengers ashore ; while others came on board to sell
articles of native manufacture, consisting of boxes, baskets,
canes, inkstands, etc., made of porcupine-quills or ebony-
wood, or inlaid with tortoise-shell. Many of the articles
were beautifully carved and studded with ivory. There
were also tortoise-shell chains, pearls, jewels, and, as we
supposed, precious stones of many kinds such as topaz, car-
buncle, ruby, the blue and the red sapphire, and diamonds.
Altogether, the display of articles was a dazzling one.
Of course they asked good round sums for such costly
goods, but as all who purchased wished to buy cheap, the
prices were reduced to meet the views of customers; and in
some cases buyers got them at as low rates as their consciences
272 A BRAZEN-FACED INTRUDER.
would allow them to offer. But all is uot gold that glitters.
It was found out subsequently that the jewelry was plated
brass, and that the precious stones were nothing but colored
glass cut up into small bits.
When Caleb and I went ashore we were met at the waters'
edge by a crowd of natives who seemed almost crazy to sell
their trinkets and other commodities, or to serve us in any
way we saw fit, provided they could make a little money
honestly or by cheating, it did not appear to matter which.
Some offered themselves as guides, to pilot us through the
city ; others proposed vociferously to take us for a drive ;
others screamed out that they could show us to the best shops ;
in fact, there was nothing that one or another did not shout
his willingness to perform in our service.
As soon as we could make ourselves heard, we stated that
all we wanted was a cab and driver; a guide we did not
particularly care for. This was soon arranged, and we set
out to inspect the city. As we started, a brazen-faced fellow
jumped on to the rear of our vehicle. We looked very hard
at him to let him know that we considered his presence an
intrusion, but as our honest cabman paid no attention to him,
we presumed it might be one of the customs of the country
for guides to force themselves unasked upon visitors, and so
we submitted with as good grace as we could. AYe had not
gone far when our unwelcome friend, to our great astonish-
ment, began to address us in English — at least his language
was a sort of patois, part English, and part something else,
which we could very easily understand. It was not long
before we learned that this obliging gentleman was not a
guide, but simply a " runner " for the shops. His business
was to find out newly-arrived strangers, introduce himself
into their company, and then persuade them to visit the
shops by which he Avas employed ; and for said services he
received a certain percentage on all their purchases.
It was not long before we came to a gay-looking shop
filled with curiosities, jewelry, and gems of various kinds.
Into this our friend persuaded us to enter, and if we had
TRICKS OF THE TRADE. 273
taken Lis advice we should have emptied half the shelves of
their glittering baubles. We were, however, deaf to all his
seductive arts, and after making a general survey, entered
our cab once again. As we drove on, our would-be guide
freely offered his advice. Sometimes we came to stores
which, to «B, had all the appearance of being really first-class,
but the guide shouted loudly " No good ! no good ! " — at the
same time pointing to some other establishment beyond, into
which he proposed we should immediately enter.
We knew his tricks by this time, and M'ould not be put
off"; but even then he was sharp enough to take advantage
of us. More than once when we insisted upon going into
some handsome-lookini; store or other, with which our friend
had no connection, after endeavoring all he could to persuade
us not to enter, he placed himself in front of us, and bowing
with profound reverence to the proprietor of the establish-
ment, pointed to us, intimating that he had brought some
customers, and as a matter of course would expect a suitable
gratuity if we purchased anything.
We expected that when we dismissed the cab, our friend
would look for some small gratuity in return for his valuable
(?) advice and assistance. This we were prepared to give
him, but were perfectly astonished when he coolly demanded
a fee of five rupees.
''"What!" we both exclaimed, "five rupees for playing
'guide!' Why, you are nothing but a shop-runner. We
engaged this cab for ourselves alone, and here you have been
riding in it all the afternoon. It is yoit who must give us
five rupees." Saying which, I held out my hand for the
money, to his utter amazement.
The honest driver then thought that he was called on to
say something, expecting, of course, a percentage of what
the runner would receive. Pointing to the latter, he
shouted : —
*' He guide ! he guide ! "
We now turned round and walked off, as if we did not
intend to pay either of them. This startled the cabman, who
began to change bis note, crying: —
17
274
AN INSULTED RUNNER.
"He no guide! he no guide!"
The runner was insulted, and immediately a fierce war of
•words began between tlie two ; each, in a way that was utterly
ludicrous to the by-standers, hurling at the other the very
ugliest and most defamatory words that their vocabulary
contained. Such abuse I never heard before ; and about
Buch a trifle, too !
A WAR OF MORDS.
There they stood, jabbering like lunatics, cursing and
Bwearing, and uttering the most horrible threats that they
had not the slightest idea of putting into execution. It
reminded me of a quarrel which 1 had at school when the
"other boy" and myself were equally valiant in wordy defi-
ance, and equally afraid of each other at heart. But we
grew tired of the noisy confab at last; so we paid the driver
according to agreement, threw the " guide " a rupee, and then
left them to make it up or fight it out, just as they pleased.
We now wandered down the street toward the vessel.
Scores of natives, with their trinkets, followed in our track,
and swarmed about us. One of them had three parrots in a
small bamboo cage, for which, cage and all, he asked six
shillings. Although this heathen could talk English about as
well as a monkey can eat sauer-kraut without grinning, yet
he knew the names of the principal coins, and could make a
WE BUT PARROTS.
275
couple of Christians understand a few tilings by signs. AVe
did not want liis parrots, but he followed along showing us
how nicely they ate sugar-cane. Presently he took one from
the cage, letting it walk up his arm, on to his shoulder; but
as we didn't buy, he reduced his price by degrees until it was
only a shilling! At last, fearful lest he might give them to
us unless we purchased, we handed him the money, and took
the birds.
On arriving aboard the vessel we opened the door of
the cage to play with our pets, whereupon two of them
immediately flew away, showing that they were not very
tame after all. We gave the remaining bird to a queer-
looking fellow whose brain was slightly unbalanced, and who
naturally enough had taken a liking to parrots.
ONE Of OUK PASStNGKRS.
CHAPTER XXX.
EAMBLES IN AND AROl^D CEYLON.
I FANCIED wlien a boy that Ceylon was the very next
place to heaven. Its spicy breezes and gorgeous scenery
had become familiar to me through the beautiful liymn by
Reginald Ileber, and as we approached its shores I almost
imaii^ined that we were drawinj; near to the abodes of the
blest. 1 was, however, destined soon to be undeceived.
The day after we landed, Dot showed us the forts built by
the Portuguese, Dutch, and English, M-ho each in turn have
possessed the island. At present it is under English rule,
and the armed fortifications and the presence of the huge
guns, the piles of cannon-balls, and the sentinels pacing to
and fro, give it nnything but a poetical or celestial aspect.
It began to dawn upon us that we should be greatly
disappointed in our visit to this famous island.
In the streets of the city we met with some jugglers, and
to drive away the feeling of ennui which began to oppress
us, we requested them to give us a short performance.
Immediately one of theju fell upon his knees in the street
and opened a red bundle, out of which rolled a number of
balls covered with red leather; while a boy, who I presumed
was his son, blew vigorously on a large horn. In unison
with the music, the father struck the balls with his stick,
jabbering to them the movements they were to take in the
dance, just as if they could understand what he said ; and
they really seemed to do so from the way they obeyed orders.
After that he scolded at the balls and they all mysteriously
270
SIDEWALK JCGGLERS.
277
disappeared, as if hidinor themselves; bat when he spoke
ao"ain they seemed to come from his mouth like words rolling
from his tongne. Then he swallowed them all, and they
shortlv appeared on his breast, one after another, and were
extracted like huge bullets lodged just under the skin.
THE MYSTERIOUS BALLS.
Another juggler pointed out a particular spot on the
ground and then covered it for a few moments with his
mantle; then he snatched the garment up, and a shrub was
seen just peering through the ground. lie then alternately
covered and uncovered the shrub several times, and before it
had been above ground ten minutes it had grown into a little
tree thirty inches high.
AVe turned from such vain delusions as these to watch a
traveling menagerie, for such things are sometimes met with
even in Ceylon. The procession, consisting of one man
carrvino' a casre containinc: two small birds and a white
mouse, moved grandly along till it reached us, and then halted
to give an exhibition. The doors of the cage were thrown
278 -A- TRAVELING MENAGERIE.
back, and one of the birds was taken out and placed in a
chariot, on its back, with its feet upwards. The other bird
walked out of the cage, put its breast against a cross-piece in
the shafts of the chariot, and pulled it toward their little
home. Then a cannon was fired ; the recumbent bird jumped
to his feet, and both beat a hasty retreat into the cage.
The second scene now opened. A flag-pole was erected,
and a flag attached to its summit was unfurled to the breeze.
The mouse marched out, and ascended up, and up, until at
the very top ! The audience watched with breathless atten-
tion . The flag-staft' was lifted from its socket and carried
gently but safely to the ground ; and a murmur of applause
ran through the audience as the flag was borne triumphantly
to the cage by the patriotic cheese-eater.
After witnessing the show, we hired two carriages, lest one
of them should break down. I think the Dutch must have
brought those carriages to the island about a century ago.
As we passed along the shore, the foam of the breakers
splashed over the cocoanut trees which grew down to the
edge of the sea. Rolling out under their dense foliage we
passed many a hut which did not appear larger than a hen-
coop, the roof and sides being covered with palm leaves.
The inmates were happy, unambitious, and contented as the
tropical birds which revelled in the forest, making it vocal
with their notes, as they basked in the light of their own
gaudy plumage.
The tropical growth soon became so delightfully monoto-
nous and heavy that we would have given almost anything
to have seen the groves and meadows of our own native land,
which change with the seasons. But here no changes come.
Here an eternal summer reigns, while the lazy ox and sleepy
elephant graze quietly on through a never-ending spring.
Finally we arrived at the Cinnamon Gardens and Wauk-
walle. Here lived a couple of Portuguese descended through
three centuries from the old rulers of the island. At the
houses of both, cheap drinks could be bought at enormous
prices. There were pointed out to us gangs of deformed
IN THE GROVES OF CEYLON.
279
natives, for whom the proprietors of the establishments made
piteous appeals, begging qs to give them a few pennies.
Having already through sympathy contributed to some with
eyes turned wrong side out, and some with shrivelled legs,
we reasoned the case with the proprietors of this suffering
^^-^' 'Mlf «-
;^^^n\>UiV.
MANY OF THEM IMPROVED SURPRISINGLY.
throng, telling them that these natives had no nee for money ;
that they could live on the natural products of the soil ; and
as for clothes, they could go to the wharf and beg some
more old sacks and mats to throw round them ; or if they
desired something better, they could sell some fruit to the
vessels or some cocoanuts to the oil-mills. But one of the
280 ADAM'S PEAK,
Portuguese gentlemen quietly remarked that their present
mode of life evidently pleased these poor creatures best, and
that they were unfitted for any other — as we could see.
"With that we walked out under the trees; and were
surprised to see the poor cripples recover sufficiently to
follow. Many of them improved surprisingly in a very short
time, and were able to climb the trees, throw us down bread-
fruit, pumpkins, and nutmegs; and to cut branches of
cinnamon and camphor, which they brought down for us to
smell, taste, and buy for walking-sticks. To show us that
the branches would not loose their odors, they were continu-
ally scraping their own old walking-sticks — cut from the same
trees — and sticking them under our noses that we might
judge for ourselves.
We passed on to the summit of a neighboring hill where
we obtained a fine view of the surrounding country. An
occasional opening revealed a rice field, but beyond were
the dense forests where both foreigners and natives went to
luint the wild elephant for the sake of liis tusks. In the
distance rose up Adam's Peak, which was alike sacred to the
Buddhists and Mohammedans. They say, that when Adam
left Paradise he used this peak and the boulders lying here
and there in the channel as stepping stones to the mainland.
As a proof they show the visitor, near the summit of the
peak, the rude imprints of a foot as long as a man's. It is
carefully guarded and protected from the weather by priests,
■who spend their lives in this place, and are always willing to
show the miraculous footprint to strangers.
Just as we were leaving this interesting place, a native
presented himself with a printed card indicating that it was
customary to give a certain sum for the privilege of visiting
the gardens. This eternal begging in one form or other was
becoming a nuisance ; so we gravely shook our beads, and
told the driver to go on. Upon this a number of impudent
rascals caught the bridle of our ponies, Baying that we ehould
not depart till they were satisfied.
A SECRET SOCIETY.
281
At this demonstration Dot exclaimed "It is a d d
fraud!" and thereupon we all jumped to the ground and
started on afoot, leaving our driver to get off as he could.
He soon overtook us, however, and we resumed our seats
and returned to the city.
CETLON A i'RAUD.
Dot's emphatic expression that the thing was " a fraud,"
brought vividly to my mind an incident of my younger days,
which I will here relate.
"While I was attending college a young gentleman made
his appearance, and at once attracted the attention of the
students. lie wished to be looked npon as a fast young
man, and considered himself the smartest fellow in the world.
He had a great ambition to join a secret society to which
many of the students belonged, and having scraped acquaint-
ance with some of us he wanted to be proposed for member-
Bhip. We held a consultation, told him we would make it
all right for him, and he went straight away and told all his
friends that he was going to be initiated. Of course we
only intended to get some fun out of him.
Next day the time was appointed; he was to meet us at
282
THE "FIRST DEGREE."
an old deserted foundry, a little distance outside the city —
time, half past nine at night. At that hour ten or fifteen of
us groped our way down the dark hollow in which the
foundry stood. It was about as dreary a spot as could well
be imagined. "We found our victim sitting on a stone
waiting for us. We whispered in a mysterious manner that
it was necessary to blindfold him. This done, we began to
INITIATING A CANDIDATE.
march him up and down, giving him the idea that we were
gom
sr an immense distance. We led him into all the
unearthl}' places we could think of, dragged him through
mud and mire, pulled him over fences, marched him into
cellars of unoccupied houses, dumped him down upon a
sleeping cow or two, and finally landed him among the
inmates of a pig-sty, causing a great excitement and noise
therein.
Then we hurried him forward again, and took him a mile
or two up the ravine. By this time we were pretty well
tired out ; so we made him sit down under a big tree, and
began the questioning part of the performance, and as he
judged it his duty to be very frank and truthful in answering
our questions, his replies gave us great amusement. After
the confession was ended, we bade him remain perfectly
motionless while we went a little distance to arrange the
THE "SECOND DEGREE."
2S3
" second degree.'' How long he sat there shivering I don't
know, but it was subsequently reported that he was not seen
at home till past midnight.
We saw nothing of him the next day, but late at night as
I was on my way home from a " meeting" of the society when
going by a lonesome place I heard a rustle in the direction
of a hedge, and soon a dim form emerged therefrom. It
drew nearer — a monstrous club was in its hand. The terri-
ble words — " It's a d d fraud ! " fell upon my ear, and
the next instant I was running for life, for I knew what
those words meant. The form followed ; nearer and nearer
it came, its huge club uplifted, and fearful deimnciations
proceeding from its mouth. 1 was near home now ; but a
neighbor's yard was nearer, and I jumped over the fence
just in time to escape the descending blow. Into the wood-
house I ran, and closed the door after me. There was a
terrific pounding outside for a few moments; then a pause;
then the ominous words, "It's a d d fraud" again fell
on my ears, followed by retreating footsteps.
I concluded, however, that it would be better for my
health to remain where I was, and so I made a night of it.
CHAPTEPv XXXI.
EASTERN CIVILIZATION— THE BRAHMINS.
WHILE in Ceylon vre met with a great many persons,
of various nationalities, whose conversation very
much interested us. Among others was an American gen-
tleman who seemed anxious to gather all the information he
could respecting China and Japan.
" To what extent," he asked, " docs the present intercourse
between America and Japan influence the national life of the
Japanese ? "
" To a very great extent, as far as we could judge during
our short visit," replied Caleb ; '" Western ways are becoming
quite the rage among the people."
"And they will be their curse," replied our friend. "It
has been so with every nation which modern civilization has
reached. What has it done for the tribes of North America ? .
What has it done for the natives of Mexico and South America ?
They were farther advanced at the time when the continent
was discovered than they are to-day. Then again, look at
the Sandwich Islanders. Before the conjing of the Euro-
peans they were a happy and innocent people ; and Avhat has
our boasted " civilization " done for them ? It has brought
civilized sins and civilized diseases among them, and has
demoralized and degraded them until from one hundred and
eixty thousand their numbers have decreased to sixty thous-
and — and that too has been the work of but forty years."
" But," questioned Caleb, "are you sure that the diseases
you mention were previously altogether unknown among the
natives ? "
284
EFFECTS OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION. 285
" Certainly," was the reply ; " it is a well-established fact.
Why, when the small-pox, as well as certain other infectious
diseases which I will not specify, began their ravages in
China, the people thought that sick persons were afflicted
witii a curse from the gods. At the same time they had
intelligence enough to see that the Europeans were the
instruments of propagating that curse, wherever it might
come from originally ; so they actually sent their sick to the
European settlements.
" But I will give you another instance," he continued.
"Before the western trade was opened, the Chinese never
dreamed of adulterating their teas; but they saw what
foreigners did, and realizing how profitable it was they
imitated and even excelled them. I assure you, the advance
of crime is parallel with the advance of what we call "civili-
zation." Every new invention or improvement enlarges the
sphere of the criminal and puts fresh power to do evil into
his hands; and the natives of countries with which we have
hitherto had no intercourse, as soon as they come in contact
with us adopt the criminal part of our civilization long before
they arc able to comprehend that which is good in it. The
Chinese, for instance, soon found a use for all the opium that
English ships could bring them, but other and useful drugs,
or a more rational pharmacopoeia tlian their own, they failed
to comprehend. The American Indians, too, quickly learned
the use of the white man's whiskey and the white man's
deadly fire-arms; but the advantages of a settled life, labor,
agriculture, education, and so forth, seemed quite beyond
their grasp."
" Excuse me," said another gentleman, " I think yon are
hardly just to western nations or western governments
when you make such broad and indiscriminating statements
as these. Consider the noljle efforts MJiieh the missionaries
have made. Besides which the various governments have
certainly tried of late to Christianize the heathen nations
with which they have held intercourse, and to raise them to
a higher social position."
236 THE THIRST FOR GOLD.
"I admit," returned our friend, "that recently a very
great improvement has taken place in this respect, but still it
may very well .be questioned whether the amount of good
attained is in any degree proportionate to the amount of
means expended. As for former times, why, men did not
even pretend to be actuated by moral or religious motives
when they explored or took possession of. heathen countries.
What but the thirst of gold actuated the Spaniards when
they took possession of Mexico and Peru, and reduced its
inhabitants, — then in a far-advanced state of civilization — to
a condition of slavery and degradation ? What but the same
motive, and the lust of conquest, led the English to subjugate
the great Indian Empire? Is it out of love to the natives
that France lias taken possession of Algeria? And is it
because we Americans love the Redskins that we have seized
their lands, driven them further and further from their own
domains, and in exchange have given them powder and
poison?"
" What you say is true to some extent," replied Caleb,
"but still I believe that the missionaries exert a great intlu-
ence for good when they are not bound down by government
patronage, nor forced upon a country by its conquerors.
Though the morality of the heathen is very low, there is
much that is good mingled even with their superstitions.
What we really want is for the heathen to retain all that is
good in his own system and to add to it the higher teachings
of Christianity. Everyone must deplore the evils which
have accompanied our intercourse with heathen nations, but
no one in his senses would wish to restore India to the bar-
barism of two centuries ago, or to give back the North
American Continent to the Eedskins. The means adopted
may have been bad, but Providence has shaped the end and
brought forth good.
"It is the advanced civilization of the West that gives her
the power of both wronging and benefiting the Oriental
nations. The world is moving; and barbarous tribes, inno-
cent in their ignorance and powerless in their inferiority,
AN INDIAN MOSQUE.
i
I
4
ANCIENT CEREMONIES IN THE TEMPLE. 289
must either be swept from the track or be carried forward."
The American gentleman was about to reply to this long
epeech of Caleb's, but I thought we had had enough of phil-
osophy and moralizing, for that day at least, so I proposed
that we should visit a neighboring teuiple and witness some
of the religious ceremonies of the native religion therein.
To this they agreed. I had been much interested in the
opinions which our American friend had expressed, but I
suspected that his sympathies with native wrongs would
become stronger when he left Ceylon, for I had observed that
resident foreigners never were very pathetic about the poor
harmless heathen until they were safely on board the steamer
and on their way home. It is so everywhere. In the States
we talk of the "poor Indian," but in the territories the same
gentleman is styled a " treacherous savage."
As we stood in the temple we were strangely reminded of
the ancient ceremonies among the Jews, for the priests
brought in a number of little boys belonging to the sacerdotal
caste and invested them with the privileges to which their
birth entitled them. These children were but eight years of
age ; to each was given the sacred string ; over each were pro-
nounced the regenerating words ; and they were then declared
" tW' ice-born." Their initiation into the mysteries of the
priesthood began from that day. When they arrived at
maturity it was expected that their lives would then be
moulded into the proper form, and their passions all subdued ;
their hair and beard would be cut off, they would assume the
white mantle, the staff of Venu would be placed in their hands,
golden ear-rings would be given them, and a copy of the
Yedas, or sacred writings set before them. Those writings
it would henceforth be their duty to expound ; besides
which, as holy men, they would be expected to give the
counsel of heaven, and to administer justice, upon occasion,
between man and man.
Years after when these boys became old grey-haired men
another scene of their lives would open — they would become
hermits or devotees. If a priest becomes a hermit he betakes
290
THE MYSTERIES OF THE PRIESTHOOD.
himself to the woods, and there lives a life of rigid abstinence,
mortifying all the passions and desires of the flesh. If he
becomes a devotee he leads a life of religions contemplation,
with the view of attaining to a state of final beatitude ; he
attempts to free himself from the slightest taint of sin and
error ; he reflects with all the powers of his mind upon the
A DKAIIMIN DEVOTKE.
mysterious essence and existence of the Supreme ; he contem-
plates the time when his own soul shall become incorporated
in the being of the Deity ; in fact his whole mind and soul
is abstracted from earth and fixed on heaven.
We saw one of these devotees: he was in a sitting posture
and appeared to be wrapped in silent meditation. If
familiarity with dirt and rags tend to extinguish pride and
self-conceit, he seemed likely to attain his end. We Mcnt
near him, but he neither stirred nor lifted up his eyes : he
was indifferent to all external objects, and an utter stranger
to curiosity. The people held him in higli veneration, and
A RELIGION OF CASTE. 291
brought him daily all that he needed — to them it was a sacred
duty.
Some of the teachings of this religion — Brahminism — are
full of pathos and sublimity, similar to the doctrines of the
Bible, but they are seldom practiced in their entirety. One
of its worst features, the system of caste, is the most promi-
nent. The Brahmin stands at the liead of the several classes.
lie is supposed to have sprung from the mouth of Brahma.
The Kfahatriya, or warrior is to defend tlie people, and ia
enjoined to give alms, offer sacrifices, read the vedas, and
guard against sensuality, lie is invested with the sacred cord
at the age of eleven — three years later tlian tlie little Brah-
min — but his cord is made of hemp while the Brahmin's is
of cotton.
ThcVarsyaor agriculturist is supposed to be chiefly engaged
in the pursuit of riches, cither from tilling the soil or from
commerce. lie also is invested with the sacred string, but at
the age of twelve, and his string is of wool.
The Soodra, or man of the lowest caste, is doomed to wait
upon those above him. lie receives no investiture, can never
change his condition, and is treated with the vilest contumely
and contempt, lie has neither sacrifice nor religion ; there
is no hope for him in this life or the life to come.
Strange to say, this class, together with those who for some
atrocious crime or some unpardonable sin against religion
have been ostracized from the other castes, form the great
mass of the people, and Mith them are included all unmarried
women — for unmarried M'omen have no place in the religion
of Brahma. In this respect it is a religion of degradation far
beyond any human slavery, and utterly repugnant to Chris-
tianity which teaches the universal brotherhood of mankind
and the equality of all.
18
CHAPTER XXXII.
OVER THE ARABIAN AND RED SEAS.
HAVING remained at Ceylon iipwards of two weeks, vrc
sailed out from its port on a September eveninpf, while
the light-house sent its twinkling rays after us until we were
miles away. For several days our course was south-west, as
by sailing pretty well toward the equator we hoped to escape
the worst of the monsoon which we should be likely to en-
counter further to the north. On the fifth day out our course
was changed to the north-west, and we were then within four
degrees of the equator. During the first day or two of our
voyage the sea was not boisterous, and the time passed pleas-
antly as we promenaded the deck, lounged upon the long
sedan chairs, or chatted with passengers whose acquaintance
we made. We talked with one of the chief ofhcers of a
British company extensively engaged in laying ocean cables,
who was returning home on a short visit. At that time his
com]mny was laying a cable from Singapore to connect Eng-
land with hcrpoissssions in Australia by a lino already extend-
ing from Europe down the Red Sea, across to India, and
from there to Singapore. In a little u})wards of a year after-
wards, this line was completed so that several of the East India
Islands, and even the southern ]>art of Australia, beyond her
burning sands, were connected by the magic telegrai>h, with
tl«3 civilized world. The line to Singapore had already been
extended up the eastern coast of Asia, and across to Nagasaki
in Japan, so that messages sent from there in the morning
might be received at San Francisco on the same day.
292
LIFE IN THE JUNGLES.
293
On onr vessel were some Englishmen wlio had been linnt-
ing in India for sport, and were returning h(»me by way of
Ceylon. They had much to say of their e.\])eriences in the
■\vilds of India; and one day a powerful fellow, wliom they
called Doctor, told us the fullowingyarn : —
"On one occasiuii as \vc were out hunting among the
jungles in the central part of India, we were suddenly startled
by a terrible noise which seemed to come from a spot a few
liundrcd paces in front of us. It was a growling and a roar-
ini; noise, as though the muttering thunders were risin<x from
the earth! We climbed a small emmence close by, and as
our eyes turned toward a cii'cular plateau not far away, we
A FIGHT IN THE JUNGLE.
saw that a tiger and a lion were grap|)lod in deadly contest,
and rolling and tumbling on the ground. We huriied on
through the brush till we came to the edge of the plateau,
where we were so close upon them, that we could see their
great glaring eyes and wide S])read mouths, as eacli shook and
tore the other, while blood ran freely on both sides. After
a light, seemingly of an hour, the tiger f^!l backward, the
lion instantly grasped liini by the throat, and the conflict M-as
soon ended by the death of the tiger. The lion loosed liis
hold, and stood gazing u'pon Ids prey as if in meditation ; but
it was only a moment, for wo ])onre(La fall volley into liim, and
he too fell dead upon tlie ground."
29i BEAR-HUNTING IN THE HIMALAYAS.
Some of the party then told us of a combat they had seen
between a wild boar and a lion, which resulted in the latter
being ripped open by the great tusks of the former. They
declared that the boar was fully a match for either the lion or
the tiger, and that upon being npproached by the hunter on
horseback, this animal frequently turned upon his enemies,
cutting the horse's legs to the bone, and sometimes despatch-
ing him in an instant; or should the horse wheel in time to
get out of his way, it was a very close race for a few minutes,
although the boar would seem to be incapable of lleetness.
The}' further remarked that during the day-time the lion and
the tiger were rather timid, and generally remained concealed ;
but at night they came from their hiding i)lace3 and prowled
around with great bo'dne.-s. They would spring ni)on cattle
and hor?e>, and toward morning the tiger, if his a]>petite re-
mained unsatiated, Avould attack the elephant. This animal
would sometimes use his trunk with such force that only a
few blows were required to drub the life out of his assailant,
or to bring him to the ground, where he would pin him with
his tusks.
These parties had also been bear-hunting at the foot of the
Himalayas. As they commenced to speak of their bear hunts,
one stout-looking man who was all scarred up, began to speak
more f I'cely than usual ; said he : —
'' One day as we were out hunting, I became separated
some little distance from the rest of the party and pretty soon
I esi)ied a large bear in the adjoining brush. As I was ambi-
tious to kill him myself, I fired upon him, but I oidy inflicted
a slight wound, and he at once "came for me." In my haste
to reload I made no headway ; everything went wrong, and
he was upon me before I was ready. I called for help, and
contrived to run the gun-biirrel down his throat, but he gave
liis head a twist, and it slipped out. Then his great claws
seized my breast and shoulders, tearing deep into the flesh, and
just as his mouth was opening upon my face, I jerked the
dagger from my belt, plunged it into his stomach, and with a
nerve unknown before, ripped him open ! We tumbled upon
WILDAIR'S YARN. 295
the ground together, and there we lay struggling as the boys
came up, but they quickly put a bullet into hiin which finished
him."
These remarks brought to mind a night's experience while
Caleb and I were in the mountains of Colorado, and I related
it as follows, as an oft'set to the bear t-tory.
"The mountains were infested Avith wild animals and
Indians and were thinly settled, so that frequently we were
obliged to camp out. On one occasion after riding till late
at ni^rht without cominj; to a house, we built a fire amonjj: the
fallen pines, collected some leaves for a bed, and lay down to
sleep. Towards morning I was startled from mj' slumbers by
a noise as of approaching feet, and immediately awoke Caleb.
Neither of us spoke; but in an instant we were on our knees
and elbows with cocked revolvers in our hands. The tread
was among the leaves under some trees not far up the hill.
What cau>ed it ? man or beast? The fire had almost died out,
sending a liickei'ing light only a few feet into the surrounding
darkness. The thought flitted through my mind : — If it be
an animal we had better stir the fire to keep it at bay, but if
it is a man the light would only give him a better aim.
*• The tread appeared to be that of a four-footed beast, but
still M'e were not certain. It seemed to walk from side to side,
but all the while coming neai-er and nearer. Then it halted,
and thinking I caught a glimpse of its form, I whispered: —
*" I'm ijoino: to fire ! '
"* No, no ! ' said Caleb, ' wait for closer contact.'
"Just then I ventured to reach out my trembling foot and
stir a brand of the fire ; a blaze instantly shot high into the
air, lightinir up the scene and giving us a good view of the in-
truder. "We shrank back to rest crest-fallen, though greatly
relieved, for it was only an innocent squirrel turning over the
leaves in search of an early breakfast."
When we were a few days out from Ceylon the ocean grew
rough so that the vessel plunged and rolled at a fearful rate.
The oncoming gale rapidly increased, and all night long the
timbers groaned and creaked under the storm. Next morning
290 A STORM AT SEA. '
a few of the women managed to get on deck by holding to this
and that, but when once there did not attempt to move; while
the men were seen staggering about as they tried to go from
one place to another. When the vessel rolled to one side, the
men who were moving about balanced themselves upon one
foot, while the other sometimes presented the appearance of
attempting to kick sideways at the person who stood nearest.
Again they grabbed at a bench or mast, or at the railing on
the upper side, but when too slow, went skimming down to
the opposite side; or occasionally two ran into each other
and fell upon the deck, to slide, and tumble, and roll together
till they reached the protecting railing on the lower side.
By noon all of the fair sex on deck were driven below.
In the afternoon the storm was still increasing, and we sat
with our sedan chairs crosswise of the vessel to prevent their
upsetting. Every now and then came a larger wave than
usual, and then, as the deck was wet and slippery, away we
went abreast, like a score of sleighs down the steep side of an
iceberg, increasing our speed till the lower railing was reached.
"We finally adopted a new plan, and that was to tie our chairs
to something permanent ; when they were thus fastened we
sat down again, and all went happy till by-and-by came a
large wave and swept away one chair and its occupant to the
other side of the deck. The crowd enjoyed it, but the fellow
looked rather sheepish as he brought his chair baclv, and tied
it over again.
The Doctor, the hero of the tiger story, was up to all kinds
of pranks, and he now slyly slipped his hand around, untied
the same chair, as he had before done, and away his victim
went a second time, at which the crowd again applauded.
The chair was again fastened, but just as our hunter was at-
tempting the trick for the third time, some one untied Jiim
and away he shot, coming with a crash to the deck, where he
sprawled among tlie broken pieces of a demoralized chair !
The crowd again roared and shouted, but just as the Doctor
had picked himself up and was holding on to a post, a gigan-
tic wave came pouring over the side of the vessel, breaking
FUN ON DECK.
297
loose many a chair, and washing them and their inmates in a
torrent against the lower railing, -where they all tumbled in-
gloriously upon the watery deck. When half way down the
inclined plane, the chair of one passenger upset and left him
sprawling on his back whence he was washed to the foot of the
hill and completely saturated by the oncoming tide. I never
could make Caleb believe that this passenger wasn't Wildair,
although I tried hard to do so.
ErrECTS OF COMINO ON TIED.
As soon as the wave had passed on through the railing, the
drenched crowd scrambled up, some with a hearty laugh,
others, whose hats were overboard, with a put-on grin, while
the Doctor, who had almost entirely escaped by jumping onto
a bench and clinging to his post, swung his hat ecstatically
as we all beat a dripping retreat to the cabin below. During
the night the storm somewhat abated.
298 ADEN, ARABIA.
On tlie seventh day of our voyage we were leaving tne
monsoon-tossed waters of the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea,
and steaming up between Asia and Africa. The waters
became smoother and smoother, so that in the evening not a
ripple was to be seen on their surface. Our vessel, which
during the previous days had tossed and worried so constant-
ly, seemed now to be calmly sleejting as upon the bosom of a
Emooth lake; while with bright lights upon deck, the passen-
gers danced and sang to music as merrily as if at home.
Araby the blest was on our right hand, and on our left was
the desolate lookino' coast of Africa.
Two days after this we arrived at Aden, Arabia, the an-
cient port near the foot of the Ecd Sea. This ])lace was cap-
tured by tiie British in 1839, and since that time has been to
them a second Gibraltar. It is thrown open as a free port,
and as h h situated about half way between Bombay and Suez,
nearly all passing vessels stop there to coal. As we approach-
ed, high towering rocks rose up almost perpendicular from
the water's edge to the height of 1700 feet, presenting a very
imposing appearance. "VVe soon discovered that this was a
volcanic promontory or peninsula projecting into the waters,
and only connected with the mainland by a low narrow
neck of sandy earth. A few European houses and shops
were collected toward the extreme point Mhere we anchored;
while Aden itself was situated about three miles further on
in the direction of the mainland.
We did not go ashore till the next morning, at which time
we were met by scores of Arabs who desired to take ns into
the city. Some of the passengers concluded to ride in cabs,
others on donkeys. As it was very hot, Caleb and 1 preferred
the cabs; and after getting into one away we went belter
skelter, for the horses attached to the vehicles were real Arabi-
an liorses, said to be the swiftest in the world, with fiery eyes
and broad spreading nostrils.
As we wound up the gradually ascending but broad and
winding road toward the summit of the promontory, the
cabmen were continually running past each other; while the
A TOWN IN A CRATER.
299
donlvey-boys who ran Leliind to scare np their lonj^-eared
animals, whipped and punched away, yellin<^ at the top of
their voices, each one trying his best to outstrip the rest.
Occasionally we passed a string ot" loaded camels, one behind
another, to the number oi tifteen or twenty. The first one
UKADS AiNU TAILS.
was led by an Arab, and its tail was fastened by means of a
strap, to a ring in the nose of the second ; the tail ot tlie second
one was fastened in the same way to the nose of the third,
and so on till the tails came to an end.
As we ascended higher we had a fine view in one direction
of the country inland ; it was desert-like in appearance, with
here and there a village, or a drove of cattle or horses herded
by the nomadic Arabs. We could perceive at once that the
inliabitants were divided into two classes — one class partially
civilized, occupying towns and villages, and the other class
roving about with their herds, and living in rude tents.
"When toward the summit, we passed through a great gate-
way in the side of the extinct volcano, and on emerging on
the inside, found ourselves overlooking Aden, nestled from
the world, far down in the lap of the crater. From tlie eleva-
tion which we now occupied, we had a fine view of the walls
300 SIGHT-SEEING AT ADEN.
and fortifications wliicli in many places, capped tlie encircling
rim cr tuinmit.
Our motley caravan now made its way down at brealc-ncck
speed into the very lieart of the city. Excepting a few Euro-
pean dwellings, there was nothing here inviting; native huts
low rock houses, narrow Hlthy streets, and swarms of dirty
men, women and children, interspersed, for variety's ^ake,
witli swarms of equally dirty camels, are the characteristics
of a place which was in the seventeenth century the home
of science, industry and wealth. Only a few years since it
contained but a thousand inhabitants, but now according to
geographers it has about fifty thousand.
To the south of the city is a great reservoir of solid mason-
ry, built centuries ago by the natives, but recently improved
by the English. It lies in a deep ravine in the side of the
crater and was constructed with various compartments, one
above the other, running up the ravine, each compartment
holding many thousands of hogsheads. When the rainy season
comes, these are filled with the water which runs down the
sides of the crater. During the dry season the water is used
from the lowest compartment; then that in the next above,
by means of a gate, is let into the emptied one and used, and
so on till the water from the highest has passed down through
the intervening ones to the lowest.
We patronized the cabmen and donkey-boys a good deal
while we were in Aden, and of course had no trouble in
settling with them for their services ; they were satisfied with
whatever we happened to give them. The other natives
were e(pially agreeable in their behavior toward us. They
would not have robbed ns had they had a chance ; no, nor
would they have taken anything as a gift had we offered it to
them. They gathered round to try to sell us egg>, some of
which were as large as a two quart cup, which led us to sup-
pose that their hens were a monstrous breed. Not being able
to sell us any, they afterwards came round Avith ostrich feath-
ers of many varieties ; and then we no longer wondered at
the size of their eggs.
UP THE RED SEA.
301
The prices which they first asked for their feathers appeared
to us to be high, especiully as their eggs were warranted to be
" ii.O(jO-lKAUuKi.NAUV ! ''
fresh ; but when they reduced tliem from several dt)llars to a
few cents, we conchided it was a favorable time to buy.
Not long did our ship tarry at Aden ; we bade the place
and its people adieu one fine evening, and next morning found
ourselves steaming up the Hed Sea, the waters of which, by
the wav, were not of the color which their name miijht indi-
cate. We were sorry for this, for we had seen enough of the
ocean, and longed for a change. The sea-gulls too, which 1 had
hoped would disappear forever, were flying thick over the
water, and were just as keen-sighted and keen-scented as before.
Some of the boys gulled one of them into swallowing a baited
hook which was dragged behind the vessel, and then pulled
on deck. It was a pretty bird, and as its eyes watered, and
its body quivered from fright and pain, I was sorry that we
had indulged in the sport.
As we continued our voyage northward the shores of Arabia
and Africa were visible, and we frequently saw, on either
hand, sandy mountains, and long ranges whose serrated or
302
ARRIVAL AT SUEZ.
saw-tooth summits stood out clearly against tlie ekj. In
many places beautiful corals lined the shores of the mainland
and island.
On the second day out from Aden we passed Mecca, the great
city of the Mohammedan world, to which thousands make a
yearly pilgrimage. It is an inland city, but only a few miles
from the sea. Two days later we passed Mount Sinai, which
Moses ascended to receive the Ten Commandments. It
is northwesterly from Mecca, and appears to be about the
same distance from the coast.
On the evening of the fifth day after leaving Aden, we
arrived at Suez, the southern terminus of the famous canal
which unites the waters of the Mediterranean and Red Seas.
4
CnAPTER XXXIII.
GETTING ACQUAINTED AVITH EGYPT.
AS we dropped anchor in the harbor of Suez, I looked with
curiosity toward the shore, and called to mind that
through the mountain-pass leading down to the water's edge
once came the terror-stricken hosts of Israel. Then I pictured
to myself the tender feet of infants, aiid the sandaled feet
of mothers, and the march of that mighty multitude treading
the sands beneath our vessel until they issued from the deep
and stood upon the opposite shore, where their joy found vent
in lofty acclamations and shouts of triumphant song.
Far out we looked over the sea of sand out of which rose
the bold and jagged mountains of Sinai, and noticed with
interest what a desolate region it was. No wonder the joy
of the wandering Israelites was soon turned to sorrow, as they
were seized by hunger and thirst on those scorching deserts
where not even a shrub or tree was to be seen. That the
bones of the entire hosts did not bleach in the sun, was nothing
less than a miracle. In all the waste fields of parched sands
which met our gaze, we could only discern one well, round
which were a few wandering Arabs watering their herd. The
natives ])ointed towards it and muttered, " Moze! Moze ! "
meaning thereby that it was Moses' Well.
These Arabs we found to be abominahly lazy fellows to say
the least. A Chinaman will row vou ashore without thinkinjr
of hoisting a sail, but these fellows will raise a sail in a dead
calm, and never dream of moving an oar until you pay them
a double price. The wind — what there was of it — happened
303
304 AN EVENING AT SUEZ.
to be directly against us, bo that sailing "was a very slow
process ; but there they lounged, happy and contented, until
we were becoming doubtful about ever reaching the shore.
Our uneasiness however only seemed to do these beggars good ;
they evidently relished it. Finally we found that only a
rupee or two would prove an effective argument to bring us
to our destination, at which we arrived an hour or two after
dark. Here we found one of our old comrades who had
outstripped us, although he left the ship long after we did ;
but as he had often been here before I suppose he knew who
he was dealing with.
We felt joyous as we again trod our mother earth, although
in a far-oil* land and among strangers. Our companion led
the way, and we were soon wandei'ing through the dark and
dusty streets of Suez. After stumbling over a donkey or two
■we came to the European part of the town, when our friend
asked us to accompany him to a musical entertainment and we
gladly consented.
Entering a wide, open door we were charmed by the sweetest
Italian strains, and to and fro within moved the graceful forms
of French and Italian girls, who, after bidding us welcome,
brought round sparkling wine and offered it with hands flash-
ing with diamonds.
Shortly afterwards many others of our fellow passengers
arrived from tlie sliij'), all eager to enjoy themselves. There
were fat laughing Dutchmen whose sides shook from their
cheeks downwards ; politely scraping Frenchmen ; John Bull
and his varied descendants; but no one more attracted our at-
tention thana3'oung Portuguese, — a third class passenger on
the ship, though he was all the time trying to force his way
among the first class. lie was now dressed up as smart as any
coxcomb could be, and his wasp-like legs flew over the floor
as he whirled his fair partner in the dance, which became
promiscuous. AVildairand I had not at first the least idea of
the character of the house we were entering, the politeness of
our companion having deceived us ; and now when we desired
to depart in peace he urged us to remain, saying that since
ANCIENT-LOOKING PERSONAGES. 305
we were traveling to see the world the best way to become
acquainted with the people of these countries was throu<2^1i the
ladies, as the men were reserved. AVhen he finally consented
to accompany us, the rest of tlie passengers collected round
witii their arguments, while the fair angels of the establish-
ment, departing far from the pretence of either modesty or
decenc}', vied in their attempts to retain us — but in vain.
Young men contemplating traveling know little of the temp-
tations they will encounter. Those who drink a little and
carouse a little to be in fashion, and just because others do the
same, may tremble to leave the moorings of home and drift
out into the currents of foreign travel and societj'.
From Suez we went to Cairo by rail ; but how strange it
seemed to be rolling across the sands of Africa in a train of
cars, while the caravans, as in times of old, were still seen
winding their slow but steady way as if the rolling ages had
brought no change. Some of them perhaps were returning
from a pilgrimage to Mecca or other venerated localities,
which railroads will soon render so familiar as to break up the
feelings of awe and superstition with which many mortals
now ri'gard them. Then unconsciously my thoughts reverted
to the ])ast, and I imagined one caravan to be that which
Abraham sent with his servants to find a wife for his son
Isaac; or the one that carried away Joseph as a slave. As
we passed the natives journeying alone on those long-cared
animals so frequently mentioned in the Eible, I called this
one Moses, that one Aaron, another Abraham, and another
David.
In still another personage wc met, I fancied we had run
across Balaam ; not that he looked like that heathen prophet, or
even re.-embled the priestly natives with their long gowns;
he was a queerer specimen of humanity than any of these.
But notwithstanding this, he reminded me of Balaam from the
energetic manner in which he applied his guiding club to the
sides of his donkey's neck and head. This ass however had
not heard the voice of an angel, but simply the shrill braying
of the " Iron Horse " accompanied by the endless din of the
306
EGYPT'S NEW RIVER.
railroad train. It was perhaps liis first introduction to them ;
at any rate he acted badly, and caused his rider, with liis fly-
ing turban and dangling sword, to cut considerable of a figure.
A MITETING IN THE DESERT.
When Joseph and Mary with their precious charge, fleeing
from the wratli of lIerod,journeyed into Egypt, there was no
Suez Canal to be crossed, but it is said the Hed Sea then ex-
tended farther north than it now does ; 1 can well believe it;
for the brackish lagoons, and bitter lakes which Ave passed
indicated that there, formerly, was the bottom of the sea. At
Ismalia there was sufficient depression for a great lake, which
formed a link in the canal. This place witnessed the cere-
monies at the opening of Egypt's new river; it was the
scene of stirring events then, but like some of our railroad
towns, its day was short and evil. Its growth now bids fair
to be sober and steady ; and it may perhaps some day become
a great city.
Wo now rolled over high sands toward the Delta, occasion-
SCENES ON THE DESERT.
307
ally passing spots having some appearance of fertility, where
the miserable looking inhabitants, living in huts of sun-dried-
bricks, were trying to eke out a livelihood. At a station, well
tanned boys, with skins of water shaped like geese strung on
their backs, halted beneath our window to gaze longingly into
our faces, and mutter,'' Wader, wader ; " at the same time they
proposed by signs to pour some out into their cups that we
niight drink and be refreshed. Men and women sat in long
rows on either side of the track, beside baskets of tropical
FRUITS OF COMPETITION.
fruits. We motioned for one of the lasses to come to our
window. She took up her basket, placed it on her head and
was approaching, when a brakeman with a fez cap on his head
viciously threw her basket down the embankment and shoved
her sprawling after it. We took pity on her and gathered
up a portion of tbe fruit, but noticed that the official took care
to help himself liberally. We threw the poor girl a franc,
and she went off crying ; gladly would we also have bestowed
19
308 THE GARDEN OF THE DESERT.
on her oppressor his due, but it would not have been good
policy in Egypt. The fellow had been hired by the proprie-
tor of an eating-house to keep off these fruit-selling peasants,
who were really little better than serfs.
From these desert sands we now rolled into the wonderful
" Garden of the Desert," where the golden fruit of the orange
and lemon tree, ripe figs, and pomegranates large and rosy
as apples, hung from bending boughs ; while from the tufted
tops of palm-trees drooped dates and bananas in clusters so
large that a man would not want to carry more than three or
four as a load. Here reigned in great perfection the poetic
idea of eternal sunshine; while cotton pods just bursting their
casing, and scattering here and there, whitening all the fields,
gave the natives the best idea of snow that they could have
at home.
The Delta was as level as the surface of a smooth lake ; and
when it is covered with water, as we saw it afterwards, no
land is in sight save the artificial mounds on which the
villages are built. In some places dams are built across the
Nile so as to flood the banks as often as needed, and thus in-
crease the certainty and quantity of the crops. On the borders
of the Delta and the !Nile Valley where the water does not
overflow, we saw them elevating it by oxen or donkeys
moving in circles at the end of a sweep, and doubtless these
higher lands will soon be irrigated by ditches.
Continuing on above the head of the Delta, the high out-
lines of the desert, through which the broad valley of the
Nile takes its winding way, rose up before us ; and soon the
minarets and domes of Cairo's three hundred mosques pierced
the softly-tinged atmosphere, presenting a most enchanting
ecene. Ten miles beyond, in the sleepy distance, were the
forms of three pyramids keeping guard over the Nile just as
they did in the days of the Pharaohs, thousands of years ago.
As soon as our train entered the dep<)t, the Arabs thronged
outside and even inside the cars, ready and anxious to do
anything for anybody. We pointed out to one of them our
luggage, consisting of a couple of valises and two small boxes;
EXPERIENCES AT CAIRO
309
and after carrying them out of the cars he stacked them upon
his head and started off for our liotel, with us after him.
Of course we had a hundred offers to ride, hut we declined
all, as we wanted to see how far the fellow could go hefore
our baggage cauglit a fall.
"We were frequently start-
led by the shooting across
our path of a donkey
almost hidden by his rider
and followed by a swift im-
petuous runner.
AYe pressed on after our
bagD'ao'e-carrier with in-
creasino' astonishment at
his powers of endurance,
and concluded that he was
a lineal descendant of some
" stiff necked " Egyptian
of ancient times. lie took
us up a broad street that
was being cut through the
heart of the city, not spar-
ing even the old mosques
that had stood for centu-
ries ; then through the narrow streets of old Cairo, among
whose labyrinths we wound our way between high walls where
even the little donkey was crowded out. At length all branch-
ing passages came to an end, and only a narrow arched opening
led through a dark wall, looking so forbidding that we did
not care to enter it. But just then our guide muttered,
" Hotel, hotel,"and on taking a closer look we saw the glimmer
of a light beyond.
Venturing on, we passed through the dark passage, and at
once found ourselves in a spacious Oriental court, surrounded
on every side by long shady porticoes. In the centre were
bowers, and walks, tropical trees and plants, playing fountains
and snowy statues.
A STIFF-NECKED EGYPTIAN.
310
AN ORIENTAL PARADISE
We involuntarily exclaimed, " How delightful ! " It seemed
to us like a little paradise on earth: in fact, it is from the
beauty of courts like these that the Orientals gather their
ideas of the original Eden as well as the state of the faithful
after death.
'r>*
LOST IN CAIRO.
I have referred to the donkeys of Cairo in a preceding
paragraph. At a subsequent period we had leisure to contem-
plate in a calmer mood some of these long-eared animals.
Tremendous bundles, seemingly in mourning, were mounted
thereon, and Wildair, by instinct probably, declared that
each bundle contained a woman. I was incredulous for a
while; but presently the outside covering of one package
A BEAUTY UNVEILED.
311
caught on a nail in a post, and lo! it unveiled to onr view a
pale but pretty feminine face. Involuntarily 1 started toward
Iier hoping to render assistance ; but she shrieked and shud-
dered so much at my presence that I left her to her fate.
Our guide told us that the prettiest girls covered their face
the closest. This one made fuss enough to be extremely
handsome — wliich she was not. Perhaps he was not a judge
of beauty, but he claimed to be; and he frankly confessed
that when he first saw the face of his wife he did not like her
and that he intended to let her go, and buy another one.
HARD ON THE DONKEYS.
CHAPTER XXXIY.
A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS.
through the dark <and narrow streets of Cairo, bound for
/^NE morninf;^, not long after midnight, ■vre were riding
the wonderful Pyramids.
"Oh Wildair" I cried, "we forgot to put those sardines in
our lunch-basket."
" So we did."
" Say, son of Pharaoh," said I turning to the guide, " can
you possibly get ns a couple of cans of sardines? We don't
want to starve on the desert like the Children of Israel."
He gave us an answer in the athrmative, and soon after-
wards, jumping from his seat, he commenced thumping at a
door, kicking and banging as if he meant to burst it open.
Presently we could hear a man grumbling within. I tran-
slate the conversation as we then imagined it.
"Say ! say ! halloo! I want a couple of cans of sardines for
two American gentlemen visiting the Pyramids."
" Let those Americans go to ;" and the speaker was
gone to the land of Nod.
Again the guide hallooed and tlmmped, but the sleepy re-
sponse was : —
*'What do you wa — a — a — nt?"
He renewed the attack, but with less success than before,
for although he redoubled the force of the assault, yet as soon
as he ceased, the man within replied with a snore. Finally
however, the "Son of Pharaoh " was too much for the sleeper ;
he arose from his couch, threw open his shutters, and handed
312
1
THE ARABS OF THE PYRAMIDS. 313
out from liis dusky cell — or rather, his niche in the wall — the
articles we dcaired.
We had not proceeded far upon our way when onr guide
began to halloo, and we came to a halt. Back from dark
streets or crevices came a murmuring answer, Avhile across
our minds flashed the thought that we were fools to start
out in this strange dark city with a guide whom we had never
seen before. We remembered all we had ever read of the
treachery of the Arabs, and we felt anything but comfortable.
Presently up from tlie rear came the sounds of ap])roaching
men, and we felt for our arms only to find we had left them
in our room. So we grasped our canes; but fortunately we
didn't need them, for we presently discovered that the guide
had only been arousing the gate-keeper, and that three other
men had also come, bringing extra donkeys for our use when
those we were riding should give out.
It struck me that these people were not so enlightened as
some of our countrymen or they would have robbed us. Only
think of treacherous Arabs, bloody Mohammedans, being so
much behind the times as to permit "Christian dogs," whom
they suspect of having money, to pass through their narrow
unlighted streets in safety. Oh, these stupid people, we should
elevate them at once !
On we went, passing by women and even children sleeping
far out along the roadside awaiting the time for the morning
market. I admired the innocence of one youth who pillowed
his head npon his donkey. Not a care troubled liis mind;
his dusky form required only half a covering, and with open
mouth he still slept on and snored, utterly regardless of our
approach.
Further along we met other parties driving their loaded
donkeys and camels toward the city gates, which closed and
opened with the sun.
The Arabs of the Pyramids were not too proud to sleep on
the ground, and our arrival in their vicinity awakened them.
They approached swiftly, and though quite humble at first
we soon found that tiiey were up to all sorts of mischief.
314 ON THE SUMMIT OF CHEOPS.
They laid hold of us unceremoniously, and at once commenced
boosting our bodies up the high stone steps, which led up the
sides of a pyramid. "We imagined that those below were
playing foot-ball with us on their heads, while those above
were catching us ; but, anyway, there was no helping it. Our
faithful guide now deserted us and turned back, probably to
make up for loss of sleep from starting so early in the morning.
His parting words to us were : —
" Beware of your pockets."
It was soon after the sun rose upon that desert world, and
over the sleeping Kile, that we reached the summit, set our
feet upon the uppermost step, and felt the inward satisfaction
of having gained the eminence of our loftiest aspirations.
The point of this pyramid had stood in our boyhood's fancies
as some prominent object stands out in a dream — something
mythical that might be thought of but never handled — some-
thing too remote in space and origin to have any tangible exist-
ence ; and therefore it was not strange that as we now stood
upon these stones, — stones as real as those we saw in child-
hood — we should feel as though we had awakened in the new
sphere or been lifted to a pinnacle above the changing scenes
of time, that we might look out over the wrecks of bygone
ages.
To one standing here, the rise, progress, and fall of
empires seemed as but ripples upon the ocean shore. The
liistories of Germany, France, England, America, and the
various nations of modern days, seemed but as things of
yesterday. The glory of Rome, Greece, Persia, and Babylon
seemed also to be nigh at hand, while far beyond, fading
away in the dim mists which overhang the boundless sea of
time, we could discern faint outlines of the histories and
traditions of Egypt and the Pyramids.
But these mischievous Arabs evidently didn't want to Bee
us reflecting. The rascals, by repeated nudges or pulls at our
coat-tails, soon brought our minds back to meditate upon the
present — and especially upon the fallen state of modern
Egyptians. But we could not even think of that long ; they
A TEMPTING PROrOSAL, 315
vrould not even permit us to look at tlic miserable mud-
colored villages so poetically perched — or rather squatted,
upon mounds rising from the water. In fact, we soon forgot
entirely that we were on the Pyramid so incessant were
these beggars in their importunities. They were rubbing
our limbs to keep them from becoming stiff, touching
thimbles of water to our lips, and then kneeling all round
with out-held hats, calling us "good Americans" and a
variety of other equally pretty names.
"We told them we had paid our guide aouble price with the
express understanding that his fee should cover all possible
expenses; but they only commiserated us for employing a
" cheating guide," " no-pay rascal," " deceptive wolf."
We informed them that the guide bad told us that they
would compliment him in this manner but that we were not
to mind them. Then they swore by Mohammed that he was
an impostor and would not donate them a cent. As evidence
of their truthfulness they bowed down before us with their
faces toward Mecca, and repeated their sunrise prayers,
accompanied by crossings, bowings, and repeated rising from
and again falling prostrate upon the ground.
When they found that all was of no avail, they proposed
that one of them should run down the Pyramid, across the
intervening sand, and up Cephron, the second great Pyramid,
all in ten minutes, for two rupees, or one dollar. They
showed us by pantomime how he would go down our Pyra-
mid and up the other one, and did it so well that we could
almost see him doing it. They accompanied their motions
with much clamor and hurrah, and seemed to think as a
matter of course that we would accept their offer. But we
declined it, and told them in a deprecating manner, that they
couldn't impose on us after that kind of style ; for they had
run not only to the top of the other Pyramid, but there and
back again for one of our countrymen all in the space of
nine minutes. Was not our money as good as his ? To this
they replied indignantly : —
"Tell him he lied 1"
316 THE OLD "TRADITIOXAL" ARAB.
Wildair replied that it could not be so ; for the countryman
referred to was never known to joke or to exaggerate in the
least.
As this seemed to excite them still more, we told them
that we presumed the native who had made the quick time,
was getting rather old and stiff now, but that his name was
" Traditional^ At this they laughed and said : —
" Oh, he has been ' dead ' a thousand years."
Nothing piqued by our refusal to pay for a race down the
Pyramids, they now renewed their polite attentions, expect-
ing of course pay for all they bestowed. Whenever we
approached the edge of the Pyramid they hovered near to
prevent our falling oft"; and once when Wildair got within
a yard thereof, they seized him by the coat-tails and pulled
him energetically back. This was too much for Wildair to
stand ; so jerking loose from their grasp he went wildly bound-
ing down from step to step, with nearly the whole flock,
who looked like tattered kangaroos, after him, yelping at
every jump: —
" He crazy ! he crazy ! "
Others caught hold of me, afraid lest I should follow suit.
Wildair tried to tell them that they were lunatics, but not
understanding their language, his efforts were a decided
failure.
In the eyes of the Arabs this Pyramid, barely five hun-
dred feet in height, was loftier than the highest mountain
in the world ; and without exaggeration it certainly was
immense for a work piled up by human hands. Even now,
after the lapse of so many ages, and notwithstanding that
the neighboring inhabitants have made of it a free quarry
for building the mosques of Cairo, it covers an area of
thirteen acres, and must originally have been much more
extensive.
Descending the northern face of the Pyramid, we met our
slandered guide but a few steps from the only entrance to
the interior. While he was engaged in lighting the torches,
we proposed engraving our names above the dark opening,
DOWN IN A DUNGEON.
317
that straggling visitors, two or three tlioupand years hence
might look at the inscription with awe, and perhaps liand us
down to the end of time as the openers and explorers of the
ENTRANCE TO THK GREAT PYRAMID.
Pyramids ! But the guide snatched the garland of fame
from our brows, by declaring that the lights were ready.
With heads bent almost to our feet, and in single file, we
now entered the little square opening leading to the dark
recesses therein. The pathway was exceedingly steep, and
the roof or ceiling very low, but we found no relief until far
318
PHARAOH'S TELESCOPE.
beneath the base of the mightj monument above, away
down in tlie eternal rock. Then turninj^ round we looked
upward and could see only a square bit of sky. The shaft
leading to this aperture was boxed or lined with immense
elabs of polished granite. I suspect that it was Pharaoh's
telescope through which he used to observe the North Star
PLAN OF THE GREAT PYRAMID.
X.
B.
Subterranean Chamber.
Queen's Chamber.
c. King's Chamber.
I). Grand Gallery.
in the daytime. It was about twenty rods long, but did not
magnify any, or point towards the stars that it used to, for
although we called them "fixed" they have been moving
during the last forty or fifty centuries.
A few steps more and we were standing in the Subterra-
nean Chamber excavated in the limestone beneath the desert,
for the final abode of a king. But the monarch for whom
this tomb was prepared was so high-minded that he could not
be content with his lowly resting-place, but ronstrncted for
himself a new tomb, up in the centre of tlio Pyramid.
To this newer tomb we now proceeded ; first along the
shaft which we had descended until it seemed we should
IN THE GRAND GALLERY.
319
have reached the entrance ; then back, and up, and up, until
finally we stood erect in the Grand Gallery, the floor of
which still ascended at the same steep angle as the shaft
which we had been wearily climbing. "What length ! what
height ! what emptiness ! what vast stones crowding closer
THK GRAND GALLERY,
and closer together toward the lofty ceiling! An Arab now
climbed a ladder to show us a shaft cut through to the
outside for purposes of ventilation.
From the upper end of the Gallery a short creep more
320 WHO CARRIED OFF THE KING?
brought US into the King's Chamber, and before us was the
sarcophagus or stone coffin of the monarch who had erected
the Pyramid. As we halted a moment all seemed silent as
death. Should he awake ! what account could we give for
entering his tomb! Just then we noticed by the dancing
light that the lid was lifted ! We shuddered for a moment
and then approached, bat the dead body once there was gone.
Many weary centuries before Christ, the King of Persia
came into Egypt and plundered the tomb, cutting out the
granite blocks that stopped the entrances. How many
mortals from every nation, in the different ages since then,
have gazed for a moment with wonder upon this open coffin,
as we now gazed, and then passed the way of all the earth !
But how far back in the dream}' past came hither the sable
procession bearing the mighty king who built this pyramid,
and, under priestly blessings, laid him in the great granite
coffin which he had placed here to receive his mortal remains
— who can say ? He probably supposed that his tomb would
remain closed until the Archangel rent the rocks and called
him into the presence of the greater Monarch who rules the
universe. He left no name upon his coffin, but it was dis-
covered a few years since in one of the little cells made
above his "Chamber" to break the weight from the ceiling.
The hieroglyphics were extremely rude, having been cut on
one of the stones by a workman during an idle moment;
but when deciphered it proved to be the name of Cheops,
who, according to Greek historians, built this massive pile.
We were now standing where the king had stood when in
the height of his glory. Here he contemplated human
power and earthly grandeur, and surely if any mortal ever
dreamed of rendering his name immortal lie was that one.
He had erected fur himself a monument and resting-place,
which he supposed would defy the hand of Time and remain
forever a visible w^itness of his greatness. But vain was his
ambition ! Mortals with sacrilegious hands have invaded his
retreat and carried him hence, no one knows whither; while
the Arab as he stands with smoking torch within this dreary
THE QUEEN GONE, TOO ! 321
and empty abode, drops no tear nor even breatlies a sigli.
Tlie kingly name has long since passed from among men,
except as it is preserved by Herodotus, and even at his hands,
it finds, but little honor. The " Two Mites" dropped by an
obscure woman into the treasury of the Lord, will in the
light of the judgment become a nobler monument to her
memory, than are these massive Pyramids, to that of Egypt's
King.
Leaving the empty sarcopliagns "we visited the Queen's
Chamber, but as it was entirely empty we concluded it had
been misnamed by modern explorers, or that she too had
been carried oft" by some of them.
Then we crept out into the light of day and gazed upon
the world-renowned Sphinx, the wrinkles of whose sublime
cheeks mark the layers of rock that underlie the sand. Then
we walked round Cephron, a smaller Pyramid, and were told
that its builder was the brother of Cheops. He tried to
erect as large and imposing a structure, but he failed and
died unhappy. Near by was a still smaller structure built
by their successor — perhaps a second cousin. It was not
opened until within the last few years, when a cofiin was
found, but it dropped into the ocean on the way to the
British Museum. Around these three were a number of
diminutive pyramids built in memory of relatives; and
interspersed among these were the vaults of the more distant
friends and relatives who could not afford monuments. We
went down into some of them, but the great bats blew out
our lights, and flapped their hideous wings in our faces, and
as they are somewhat disagreeable on account of their claws,
we exchanged their society for that of our donkeys, and
mounted them to return to Cairo.
As we started off", the donkey -boys gave a whoop, and each
one struck his animal a smart blow which put them at once
into full speed. In a moment more another whack and shout
almost sent them running from under ns, and ourselves from
under our hats. After pitying the donkeys and their masters
awhile, we concluded that if they could stand it we could.
322 ' FINE WEATHER FOR BRICK-MAKING.
They continued at a very fast "lope," or run, for nearly
six miles. Tliese Arabs of the desert are as wiry as steel.
"We were now coining to deeper sands which had been
drifted by the wind, filling up a space between a low ridge
of rock and the main desert. Here we passed men by the
dozens, digging into the sand for bones, which when found
they sold to sugar-refiners. In one place where the rock was
cracked open we approached as near as we could conve-
niently ; and what should we discern in the crevice but
mummies; while beneath us were the Catacombs of Memphis,
the ancient capital of Lower Egypt.
AVe were now passing Aboo Seer, a group of three large
pyramids making the burial-place of another dynasty —
perhaps the one that overturned that of Cheops. A couple
of miles further on we came to a third group, the principal
one of which was the Lakkarah. To climb the steps of this
pyramid would have required several gigantic strides of one
hundred feet each, and so we did not ascend. Still beyond
were the two majestic Pyramids of Dashoor. "VVe looked at
them longingly and meditatively and then turned slowly
back into the desert.
Through the flooded valley we wound our way through
dikes, thinking of the paved streets that lay silent beneath
the sands and mud of the Nile. Two or three thousand
Sphinxes guarding the approaches to fallen temples, had
been discovered, but we could not see them now.
Finally we came to a large island covered with the ruins
of Memphis — consisting chiefly of immense heaps of sun-
dried bricks, made, we supposed, by the Children of Israel.
What a hard time they had under those taskmasters!
Every day was splendid for making brick. A rainy hour
never interferred, else all these mud bricks had crumbled ;
but they remain to this day. A few wretched-looking
inhabitants, contented and happy, were thriving on the fruit
of the date-palms growing out of the ruins.
A short distance beyond this point we came to a little
railroad station, where a group of squatting Arabs were
DOWN IN THE LAND OF EGYPT. 323
waiting to take the cars. As the train came along just in
the nick of time, we tumbled the donkeys into one car,
jumped into another ourselves, and rolled away toward
Cairo, through groves of date-palms where the inhabitants
were wading or paddling from tree to tree, then climbing
and gathering the clusters of fruit, while our cars stirred up
an awful cloud of dust that ran an even race with us.
At the station opposite Cairo we got into the awaiting
carriage and rolled away for the city, past one of the palaces
of the viceroy, where two or three thousand cavalry were
stationed, while cavaliers on fine horses rode up and down
along the walls. As we passed the gates, guarded on either
side by Turkish soldiers, we obtained a few glimpses of the
grounds, gardens, and parks within, which seemed like a fairy-
world. On we rolled, along the finest drive in Egypt, as
level as a floor, and embowered by acacia-trees, and then we
crossed the Nile, full of strange, leaning masts, over a long
bridge built for the pleasure of the ex-empress of France,
that she might indulge in a drive to'the Pyramids during her
visit at the opening of the Suez Canal.
In the evening we tendered our guide a napoleon to visit
the market and bring us a fine melon and a basket of grapes.
Upon his return he threw down a lot of Egyptian coins of
whose value we knew nothing, and when M'e proceeded to
make inquiries were told by this Mohammedan, that we
ought not to suspect our servant ; that God would take care
of us. Before leaving he took care to ask us for a donation
in behalf of the donkey-boys and himself.
20
CHAPTER XXXV.
SIGHT-SEEING UNDER GROUND.
EVERYBODY said that we must see the Catacombs
before we left Egj'pt ; so we suffered our unclean guide
to convey us thither. AVe found them to be immense exca-
vations in the hard rock underlying the desert; quarries, in
fact, from which the ancient Egyptians cut the stone to
build their temples, palaces, and national works ; with now
and then an odd block for a god. They had gods in vast
numbers, and when they wanted a new one they joined
two of those already at hand, and got up a compound of
lions with men's faces, and men with birds' faces, fishes with
legs, and all sorts of variations on the usual order of things,
the object seeming always to be to make something more
hideous than before. The excavations being made, the next
thino- to do was to utilize them; and when the idea of using
them as human sepulchres was decided on, they prepared the
thinfT in a proper manner, cutting galleries at right angles to
each other, with here and there a chamber, as a relief to the
labyrinth of windings, upon the walls of which they carved
the various scenes of life, here and hereafter.
The most successful digger seems to have been one Ren
Hassan, — short for Benjamin, I sup])ose. lie appears to have
been one of those old "governors" who would sit round
the tavern stove, and discuss every subject, from the proper
manner to trap a musk-rat to the details of a patent churn.
The guide books say he was a king, and so of course he must
have been one ; but he was a democratic old fellow for all
324
LEAP-FROG AND BASE-BALL.
325
that, and the people knew it or the}- never would have taken
such liberties as to write down a royal personage as Ben !
The tomb of another, whose name is, alas! forgotten,
indicates that he was an enterprising poulterer, and did not
feel above his business. There he sits, plucking flinty
feathers from a granite goose, and there too sits his chief
clerk, ready to give the finishing touch to the bird before
A HARD GOOSE TO PICK.
hanging it among the stock-in-trade, wliich already makes a
respectable show in quantity at least. AVe thought the dress
of this group a little scanty, but said nothing about it, as
near by were four festive damsels engaged in a combination
of leap-frog and base-ball. One of our party said he would
like to see some young ladies of the present day play ball in
this manner. Probably he did not remember that the dresses
now worn arc not so well adapted to the games as were those
of these ancient maidens.
There was also another party of four young ladies, who
were engaged in throwing balls in the air and catching them
as they came down. This exercise of the balls was, I pre-
sume, taken just before going to bed, or just after getting
up, as they all had their night-dresses on. I noticed that
their feet were large, and that their lines of beauty were
poorly developed.
32G
A LIBERAL OLD FELLOW.
We passed by a whole raft of serious-looking personages,
whom we took to be religious functionaries. They were
MORNING RECREATIONS.
presenting bowls of soup and variously shaped dishes to the
gods — that is what onr guide called them, although some had
bills long enough to drink buttermilk out of a churn. AVhat
a liberal old fellow that Ben was. He used to patronize all
BED-TIME EXERCISES.
kinds of things, even to dancing on the tombs; and you can
imagine how the young ladies danced and tumbled from the
way they played ball. The young ladies loved jewelry ; but
WEAK YOUNG LADIES.
327
that was a natural weakness which tliey have not outgrown
to this da^'. We saw how the fiiif^er-rings, necklaces, and
bracelets were ni; do from the weighing of the gold to the
giving of the tini^hiIl4• touch.
Passing on, we recognized at a glance the good old Egyptian
husbandmen of forty centuries ago, with tiieir wooden hoes
and equally rude plows and sickles. Some of their oxen had
half-a-dozen marks of the branding-iron on one side, and
perhaps as many more on the other side; I could not see it.
It seemed as if he had changed hands rather too often ; and
what Avas worse, a new owner had tied the four feet of the
helpless animal and was about applying another liot iron.
Some of the Theban kings were great aristocrats, living by
themselves in spacious mansions, and cutting out for their last
resting-places vast aj)artments, on the walls of which they
carved the scenes of time and the imaginary scenes of eternity.
They delighted particularly to thus record their numerous
battles, from the conquering of an army to the despatching
of a mosquito.
A TOUCniNG SCENE.
A certain kingly warrior, renowned in his time, went out
hunting one day, and when he came home he had his exploits
all carved out upon the walls of his lonely mausoleum, as an
eternal witness of his achievements. We knew that he was
a great king, for none but such a personage could accomplish
Buch feats. It was touching to see the consideration of the
328
A CONSIDERATE BULL.
wild bull which stood still with something like a drum-stick
in his mouth, while this expert hunter is making up his mind
what to do with him. A book on this subject says that " the
hunter is supposed to have been hiding behind the tree near
his right foot." We could not suppose such a thing, however,
as the tree is not as high as his knee, and would make only
a mouthful for the bull.
RETURN OF THE HUNTERS.
A group in another place represents a doe suckling a young
fawn. This scene so touched the hunter's heart that instead
of killing them he had them brought home and put in his
park. Like everything else, the execution is a trifle exaggera-
ted, but still it possesses affecting simplicity. A repre-
sentation of a servant carrying a slain deer on his i^houlders,
and leading two greyhounds, is very faithful at least as far
as the dogs go.
There was one slab representing a man out shooting with
bow and arrow. He had succeeded in beguiling a cow and
bull within short range and was sending his missiles so fast
A MIGHTY ARCHER.
329
ihat the fonrtli arrow was ready for a start wliile yet the
second and third were on tlie fly — thus showing the superior-
ity of ancient weapons in the
hands of ancient hunters over
modern fire-arms. It is worthy
of notice too, that had the cow
been hit by a ball instead of an
arrow, the noise of the explosion
would have startled the bull
from his serene meditations, and
he would have had a better
chance to dodge the second ball.
That this archer was also a great
hunter there can be little doubt,
for other game is lying about
which he had previously secured.
Among the lot is a bird without
any tail, another without a head,
and several specimens of races
now extinct. An accordion and
a fish-hook near by are suggest-
ive of a person of meditative
and nmsical tastes.
Is ear by the stone which pic-
tured forth the exploits of the
mighty Kimrod, we stumbled
over a skull, and thinking from
its proximity that it might have
once belonged to the hunter, we
tied it up in a handkerchief and
carried it alone' as a memento of
our visit to the Catacombs. We
were subsequently tempted to leave it behind in our room
at some hotel as a joke on the chambermaid ; but it clung
to us, and with us arrived safely at our home. Our friends,
to our surprise, did not take kindly to it, and it was soon
wrapped up in a newspaper and deposited in an upper
330 -A- MEMENTO AND ITS FATE.
chamber of our wood-house. In the course. of tnnc it was
discovered bj mice and appropriated to the uses of a large
family thereof ; and when the intruders, in turn were discov-
ered, they and their castle were demolished by blows rained
on them by a sturdy " giant-killer " armed with a huge club.
For a long time we wandered about among the ancient relics
of humanity, laying up material for moralizing and meditation
in after years. Kings and warriors had here endeavored to
leave behind them names which would be forever remembered;
but already ruthless explorers had dragged the last relics of
departed greatness from their sepulchres, and trampled them
in one indistinguishable mass of bandages and bones, through
which the traveler wades knee-deep, stirring up clouds of
dust at every step. "When we finally left the Catacombs, it
was with a consciousness that we had been guilty of little less
than sacrilege.
One day as we were riding over the sands near where once
stood ancient Memphis, we chanced to meet an antique-looking
excavator who took us a short distance from the road and
showed us where a hole had been dug in the sand, to the
underlying stratum of rock. Thence we followed him through
a passage which led into an immense underground hall,
whose dimensions were only revealed as we proceeded with
our torches. On either hand were smaller apartments, to the
number of forty-two, each of which contained a beautiful
rose-colored sarcophagus made of polished granite.
As we wandered from one stone coffin to another, a feeling
of respectful awe filled my mind ; they were so fine in finish,
and 60 immense in size and weight, that I could not doubt
that great and renowned men, worthy of my sincerest rever-
ence, rested within them. But I felt ashamed of my emotions
when we were told that each chest onlv contained an
embalmed bull. These bulls were the venerated gods for
which the old Egyptians had poured out their lives and
treasures ; to which they bowed with veneration while
living; and for which, when one died, all Egypt mourned,
until the priests had searched the land and found a suitable
successor.
AN EGYPTIAN SWINDLE.
333
When a new bull had been thus secured it was borne in
more than kingly potnp to On, the city of temples ; "where,
during forty days, the people rejoiced, and men and women
cohabited publicly in his presence. It was the image of this
Egyptian bull that Aaron reproduced with the earrings of
the Israelites at Iloreb; and M-hen Moses returned from the
mount he found the people enjoying their forty days of
feasting and wantonness around the golden beast.
The followers of Mohammed who showed us the siirhts
and wonders of the country seem to have lost all respect
for the gods and images of their forefathers. They not only
refuse to worship them, but even imagine that the devil
and other evil spirits lurk about the dark ruins. After our
experience with the bulls we, like them, no longer reverenced
any mementoes of departed greatness.
CHAPTER XXXYl.
THE LANGUAGE OF THE MONUMENTS.
WHEN I stood in the presence of the Great Pyramid, I
felt that when it was built brute force must have ruled
the world. In its erection no genius was displayed, as when
at the touch of Grecian sculptors blocks of snowy marble
sprang into ideal life, full of grace and beauty. There was
no display of art and skill such as is seen in tlie temples of
Italy, among whose aisles the visitor wanders enchanted. The
gigantic pile was merely a collection of coarse stones brought
together by thousands and tens of thousands of men who
drudged out their slavish existence in accomplishing their
task.
Learned men have concluded that the largest stones of the
Pyramids were brought hundreds of miles on rude sledges
drawn by multitudes of men. For what great end was all
this toil and hardship ? Was it for the good of the public, or to
celebrate some great event, or to honor the memory of some
renowned character or benefactor of his race ? No! It was
built by a race of slaves to gratify the unreasonable ambition
of a tyrant who had just invaded and subdued their country.
Yet some persons are found who are ready to laud this
ancient despot and to magnify the work of his crouching
menials. Often do we hear men who have never visited the
pyramids say that in these days it would be impossible to
erect such structures. But I have not the least doubt that
plenty of Yankees can be found who would contract to build
a dozen pyramids within a specified space of time ; and who
331
AN ANCIENT CITY.
337
ymm^
II '.—
would do it too at a rate never dreamed of bj the original
builders. Instead of dragging the stones thither by hand,
and laboriously raising them in the same manner, the few
workmen required to do
the job would have a com-
paratively easy time of it,
while the " iron horse " and
stationery engine did the
work.
The Obelisks impressed
us more favorably than the
Pyramids. They evident-
ly were erected at a later
period when art was more
developed. But still the
single idea of power and
solitary superority was
prominent in these impo-
sing shafts of hard unorna-
niented granite. It is said
that they used to be erected ^
at the entrances of temples
to inspire in mortals an awe for the gods.
The obelisk in which we were most interested carried us
back forty centuries to the days of Ben Hassan — '* Old Ben"
— whose name it bears. It stood at the apex of the Delta,
lone and solitary, in a field of growing corn. From fragments
of history, hieroglyphics, and tradition, it appears that here
was built the most ancient city of Egypt — if not of the world.
It was a city of schools and colleges, and in it Joseph is sup-
posed to have received the hand of Asenath, the daughter of
the high priest of Egypt, who was next in influence to Pharaoh
himself. Here the learned men of Greece pursued their
studies; and here Plato spent thirteen years of his life in
poring over the old Egyptian ])hilosophy and mythology.
The world may rejoice that those old papyrus manuscripts to
which he had access were afterwards burned at Alexandria;
YANKEE PYRAMID DUILDERS.
338
THE EARLY PICTURE-WRITING.
for tlie Greeks have transmitted to us through their my thology
all that ought to be known respecting them.
KUIMS OS lliK NILE.
While amid the monuments of the Egyptians we made
a study of their picture-writings, and attained such profi-
cency, that when we saw a line of hieroglyphics in which
there was a cow, a pig, a knife, and a pair of scales, we read
it thus: — "Cows, sheep, and pigs are butchered here, and
weighed out to customers." When we observed in another
line, a man, a lion, a bow, and an arrow, we understood that a
gentleman went out hunting the king of beasts witli his bow
and arrows. Such groups as these were specimens of the
earliest picture-writing of the Egyptians.
But these ancients made new discoveries in the course of
time. As a stock-dealer was corresponding with various
parties about the number of donkeys, geese, and camels he
had for sale, his son said : —
" Now father, 1 don't fancy making a donkey every time I
have to write that animal. AVhy would not two long ears
do as well ? "
INGENIOUS LEXICOGRAPnERS.
330
"And the neck of the goose and the hnmp of the camel
wonld surely suggest their owners," remarked the second
son. The father assented.
Thus they and their descendants continued to shorten and
render easy the writing of each word, until finally they bore
little or no resemblance to the objects or thoughts they were
intended to suggest to the mind. There came into use a
writing in which few or no hieroglyphics were seen, like the
Chinese s3-mb()ls of to-day, — a curve representing one Mord,
a straight mark another, a cross a third, and a dot a fourth.
But as ladies began to wear various kinds of jewelry, and
different textures of laces, and to adopt a perplexing number
of styles, terms so multiplied that it became impossible to find
symbols to represent all the words; so the lexicographers fell
to joining old symbols together to represent new words.
Finally, this combination suggested to some ingenious fellow
the idea of letting a symbol stand for a sound, and as the same
sound was found in thousands of different words, it cut down
the symbols to a score or more and gave us our alphabet.
But the priests clung tenaciously to the original hieroglyph-
ics, and hence on the sides of temples, tombs, and mummy-
cases, one sees all kinds of animals, plants, and other objects.
EGYPTIAN lUtiH AUT.
Out of this picture-writing sprang painting. Instead of
placing a cow, a girl, and a whip in a line, to be read : "A girl
340 EARLY PAINTERS AND SCULPTORS.
drove home a cow," they put the whip in the maiden's hand
and represented her in the attitude of urging homeward the
milk dispensary.
Later artists made slight improvements upon this picture,
by putting a little flesh upon the arms of their figures and
bearing in mind that a hawk's nose did not adorn the counte-
nance of a cow. One can trace upon tlie monuments how
each wielder of the brush benefited by the experience of his
predecessor ; but the most clever in his profession never at-
tained to more than a stiff and imperfect representation of the
human form divine.
On Grecian vases and monuments which we subsequently
saw, we could trace the development of painting, from its
rude infancy to the perfect delineation of human forms in all
their graceful attitudes. Life-like color was also given to the
figures — a thing which the Egj-ptians never attempted — and to
a certain degree light and shade were represented. But it was
left to more modern painters to deceive the eye with perspect-
ive, throwing upon the canvas the appearance of receding
landscape filled with thousands of familiar objects.
If our artists wish to give prominence to a general he is
put life-size in the foreground, while staff officers and soldiers
gradually grow smaller in the background. If the Egyptians
wished to give prominence to their king, they made him many
times larger than the other men around him. Li their battle-
pieces, one file of soldiers is above another, with a horizontal
line running between the feet of the upper row and the heads
of the next lower one. I know that antiquarians love to
praise the art of the Nile, but this was its perfection.
Sculpturing too, like painting, sprang from picture-writing.
The ancients scratched the outlines of their hieroglyphics,
and then covered them with a coat of paint. Here was writ-
ing, painting and sculpturing in embryo. Succeeding gen-
erations learned to cut the outlines deeper and to round the
figures, producing bas-reliefs. At a later period they carved
still deeper, and figures assumed the high relief; and finally
the form of statues in niches in the wall. Their finest imaces
I
GRECIAN ARTISTS.
3il
show a line along the back of each fif^nre where it was broken
from the main block. Thouijh some of these imacres are of
overpowering dimensions, yet like the paintings they all are
painfully stiff. Greece carried this development in statuary,
as it did in painting, to all its perfection in grace and beauty,
but as sculpturing is a much simpler art than painting, little
room was left for modern improvements in that line.
CHAPTER XXXVIL
THE VESTIBULE OF THE OLD WORLD.
AT last, leaving the truly Oriental city of Cairo, we took
the raih-oad train for Egypt's celebrated seaport Alex-
andria.
"Hotel de Europe, patronized by the Prince of "Wales"
was the inscription which met our eyes on the door of a
carriage as we stepped fi-oni the cars at Alexandria; and
although we had never been able to trace our ancestors back
further than Adarn, it occurred to ns that we ought to keep
up the reputation of this caravansary by patronizing it —
especially as the prestige of Albert Edward's visit might be
wearing away.
After becoming duly ensconced in " our inn," which, by
the way, was worthy of all its renowned guests, we set out to
inspect the city on foot. We soon found that in tliis vesti-
bule of the old world were mixed and mingled all the
oddities of the earth; while the walls that surrounded it
appeared as if they had been patched, mended and remodeled
by every architect from the days of Noah down.
Thronging the streets were all kinds of people, from all
countries under heaven, and of all shades of color. They
wore all kinds of dresses — from a stove-pipe to a turban
tied round the head — from the dandy-fitting suit of Broad-
way or Paris to the long, loose petticoat-pants of the
Arabs, and the gowns of the priests. There were tall men
and short men ; rich men and poor men, and beggar men,
and women ragged, crouching, shriveled, and haggard.
ALEXANDRIA.
343
There were meTi of all kinds of beliefs — Christians, Moham-
medans, and Pagans, and men of every kind of occupation.
Upon the streets were passing various kinds of vehicles and
conveyances, omnibusses, stages, wagons, drays like tM'o long
poles on two wheels, donkeys innumerable di'iven by donkey-
STRKET SCENE IN ALEXANDRIA.
boys, upon which were seated Europeans, Arabs or anyone
else; interspersed with people afoot, and people like the
Chinese carrying burdens on poles.
Here was a store airy with Chinese or Japanese ornaments,
carvings, and curious trinkets; there was another with large
graceful vases and richly varnished boxes profusely orna-
mented with oriental figures. There were Turkish, Arabic,
French, and English stores, filled with outfits for India, and
other hot climates, grass-plaited slippers, hats like great
turtle-shells but light as cork and hung with a white
curtain to protect the neck and shoulders from the sun ; suits
of morning gowns, as loose as those worn by the men of
21
344
A VARIETY OF RIDES.
Japan, and tliin as paper ; and warm European outfits in all
the national varieties. Some of tlie narrow winding streets
were almost blockaded by the stands of street merchants
selling many varieties of merchandise and fruits from every
clime.
From this city one may take a donkey-ride into the
country, a camel-ride over the desert, a canal-ride into the
valley of the Kile, a railroad-ride past the pyramids or to the
Suez Canal, or a steamboat-ride to almost any place in the
world.
CLEOPATRA S BATHS.
There has been but one Alexander in the world, and there
is but one xllexandria. This city has never depended upon
a single nation or empire, but upon the shifting fortunes of
the world. Here has been the eddy or whirlpool around
which human events have swept ever since Alexander set the
world in commotion, by entering the field of universal con-
quest. Situated almost at the very entrance to those three
old continents, Asia, Europe, and Africa, it has naturally
been overswept by the pent-up forces that had accumulated in
their interiors, yet when the equilibrium has been restored
here, this has still been found to be the eddy point.
We of course visited the objects of interest connected with
ANTONY AND CLEOPATRA.
345
the name of Egypt's beautiful and passionate queen, Cleopa-
tra. Taking a carriage we drove first to " Cleopatra's Baths "
on the sea-shore, and saw the very stone where her fair feet
had trod, but tread no more, though the briny waves roll
through a subterranean passage just the same as when her
graceful form quivered before each incoming billow. I asked
these surges which had demolished one corner of the apart-
ment, and in another century would roll in unobstructed
through the whole side, where she was whose charms had
conquered great Csesar and Pompey — men who moved the
world at their pleasure ; but they foamed on as before, and
offered no reply.
I love to think of her passionate nature, and how, when
summoned by the victorious Antony to appear at Tarsus, she
willingly went hither at
the behests of a master
whom she was about to
make her slave. Of her
pomp as she approached,
and "was rowed up the
Cydnus with silver oars in
time to silvery harmonies,
reclining imrobed as Aph-
rodite, on her golden gal-
ley, with Nereids and Cu-
pids grouped around her,
and sails of purple silk
fluttering in the wanton
air, among clouds of in-
cense that concealed the
river's banks" ; — of the
charms that fettered him,
while his triumphs fell to cleopatra's needles.
pieces, and the golden opportunity passed for making
himself victor of the world ; — how in a fit of anger, she shut
herself within a tomb, and caused it to be given out that she
was dead ; — how he threw himself upon his sword while his
34:6
POMPEY'S FAME AND PILLAR.
dying command was : — " Bury me by the side of Cleopatra" ;
liow she had his body brought, and bathed his temples with
her tears, and then after ordering a splendid feast and robing
herself as a queen, applied an asp to her bosom, the sting of
which soon caused her death; — and how she passed away,
tired of the world, after having drank at every fountain of
pleasure which it could offer.
But neither these rocks, nor the billows, nor even the
breezes that used to fan her cheeks, now whispered her
name. So we drove to Cleopatra's Needles — the identical
shafts on which she used to look in her melancholy moods
and think of Egypt's de-
parted glory. They were
a pair of real Egyptian
Obelisks brought from a
temple of the ancient On
which we had visited, and
re-erected here in the
youth of the Boman Em-
pire. One, however, was
now toppled over and
broken.
At a distance, as if
guarding the ruins, stood
Pompey's Pillar, poetic-
ally named after one of
Cleopatra's renowned and
ardent lovers, although it
was erected nearly three
centuries after he was
POMPEY S PILLAR.
dead. Can either Pompey's name or this Pillar, — to-day
standing bright and strong like a solitary granite column of
a mighty temple — can either crumble into oblivion ? Time
answers "Yes; the ocean is limited, but boundless is the sea
of time."
While reading the Greek inscription stating when and
why this column was erected, we observed some ragged
MANUFACTURING RELICS. 347
urchins pecking away at its pedestal. Knowing tliey could
make no impression on this stone, we naturally kept one eye
on the little rascals to see what they were up to. Soon, off
flew three pieces of stone, which they eagerly scuffled for
and brought to us importuning us to buy with such earnest-
ness that we concluded to call them relics, purchase them,
and bring them home ; they looked like fragments of the
Pillar, and who could ask stones to do more.
After visiting the ruins of Pompey's Palace we descended
into the imperial tombs of that period. I am not aware
whether we saw the identical tomb in which Cleopatra shut
herself to break the heart of Antony, but I know we came
across a very fine one which had been turned into a church
in the early days of Christianity. Some of the pictures of
the walls had been cut away and the slabs removed to
modern museums.
When Joseph brought the babe Jesus into Egypt, had he
gone into the Library of Alexandria, he would there have
found a Greek manuscript in which it was written : — "But
thou, Beth-lehem Ephratah, though thou be little among the
thousands of Judah, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto
me that is to be ruler in Israel ; whose goings forth have
been from of old, from everlasting." And when the apostles
came here spreading the news of how a certain man had
lived, died, and rose again, they read out of this same Greek
manuscript, over three hundred years old, and from copies
of it how " How he was wounded for our transgressions,"
and " With his stripes we are healed ; " how " He was
numbered with the transgressors;" and all those other
prophecies of the Old Testament. Although that manu-
script was finally burned, yet copies of it have come down
to us. It is called the Septuagint because it was translated
by seventy wise men chosen for that purpose, through the
desire — if I remember correctly — of Alexander to read the
Book.
Our most unpleasant experience in Alexandria occurred
just as we were about to leave for Naples. We had employed
348
WE FALL AMONG THIEVES.
a cab to take us and our baggage down to the wharf. There
we were besieged by a party of Arabs, who under the pre-
tence of seeing that we had nothing contraband about us,
seized our trunks and valises, and began to overhaul them.
They laid hands upon everything; opened every parcel,
WILDAIR EXPRESSES HIS OPINION.
peeped into our card-cases, and tumbled about our little
Oriental curiosities, tearing off the soft paper in which we
had so carefully wrapped thera. Then they coolly demanded
a tribute of two rupees for their trouble. This was too
much for our equanimity. We looked at our open fans,
beads, and strings, all twisted and tangled — many of thera
scattered over the dirty wharf — and without making any
attempt to ventilate our ideas in Arabic, we gave expression
to our opinions in downright English of the most personal
description. ,
At this, however, the pirates were not in the least dismayed.
They persisted in their demand, with a perseverance worthy
THREATENED AVITII "CUSTOM-HOUSE."
349
of a better cause, threatening us "with " Custom-house 1
custom-house ! " if we did not comply. We had no desire
for any more official inspection, and, while we hesitated, a
bystander (who was also an Ishmaelite), stepped up and
quietly suggested : —
" Just pay them a rupee and let them go."
"We were far too angry to listen to this sage advice; so the
Arabs gathered up the tangled heap in their arms and carried
it oflf to the custom-house. The officer there bestowed a single
glance upon us, and then passed by, without a word. There-
A SliilKK O.N IJlJi UIGU SEAri.
upon we laid forcible hands upon our own property, stowed
it away as well as we could, and boarded a skiff, telling the
boatmen to row as quickly as possible to the steamer, for we
were late. The Arabs, however, still held on to us and
attempted to prevent our departure. They actually seized
hold of the boat. I never saw AYildair in such a rage as at
that moment. He brandished his huge elephant cane over
350 WE ESCAPE FROM OUR ENEMIES.
the rascals and threatened to demolish them if they would
not let go. It was with difficulty that I appeased his wrath ;
and finally by loudly threatening to call in the assistance of
the police, we frightened our half-savage intruders away.
We had not gone very far from the shore when we met
with another difficulty — the boatmen declared for double
fare. Wildair told them the proper charge, saying that he
would pay no more. The boatmen stopped rowing. Wildair
ordered them to proceed at once or else return to the shore.
Their leader threw himself back in the boat and coolly
pointed to the steamer, intimating that we should be too late.
We threatened them with arrest when we did get to land
again; and at last, somewhat intimidated, they reluctantly
began to paddle on again. In a few minutes we were on
board the steamer, rejoicing at our escape from enemies on
sea and land.
"I hope you will be sunk in the bottom of the sea," was
the tender prayer uttered by one of the disappointed boat-
men, as he rowed away. I was almost tempted to toss a coin
after him, for it was not pleasant to be cursed even by an
extortionate Arab ; but the vessel was moving on, and my
opportunity of turning the curse into a blessing was lost.
CHAPTEK XXXYIII.
FROM EGYPT TO SICILY AND ITALY.
OUR steamer "was one of a French line running to and from
Marsailles, France, and I judged at first glance that we
should have a comfortable time while we were on board.
"We were soon sailing out from the beautiful port of Alex-
andria; the city disappeared first, and then its lofty light-
house slowly receded from view, until the coast of Africa was
lost in the distance. The motion of the gently-rolling waves
of the Mediterranean was scarcely noticeable in comparison
with the troubled waters of the Indian Ocean ; and to us the
voyage seemed to be across a smooth and beautiful lake,
while now and then the white sails of a ship appeared in the
distance, or the smoke of a steamer on its way to the East.
The passengers consisted of English, French, Italians,
three Turks, and a couple of long-gowned priests. On the
afternoon of the third day we came in sight of the southern
coast of Italy, and soon obtained a glimpse of the country
near the shore. It was rough and mountainous, but green
with vineyards; the mountains almost to their summits being
thickly dotted with houses, which formed long straggling
villages, while, lower down, the population was evidently
much more numerous. The soil, although apparently sterile,
is adapted to vineyards and fruit-trees, and the grapes, figs,
oranges, olives, and other fruits, form a large part of the food
of the native Italians.
Scarcely had we sighted the coast to our right, when a
smoky mountain to the left came into view; — it was Moimt
352
MOUNT ^TNA.
^tna, the celebrated volcano in the island of Sicily. "We
approached neai'fer, until it was only about twenty or thirty
miles distant, appearing to be nearer still. The smoke from
the crater poured down the sides of the mountain, almost
concealing it. At length the breeze sprang up, uncovering
first one rough corner and then another, until nearly the
whole peak was disclosed to view. Then again the thick
sulphurous smoke gathered more densely, and a low rumbling
noise was heard, like the sound of distant thunder. No erup-
tion, however, took place.
too,, '■nr-^.ir.i . ■ - :
■■^.^^r^,:^;.
THE SHORES OF ITALY.
There is a feeling of insecurity ever hovering round the
base of this mountain ; yet such is the richness of the soil, and
so strong is the temptation it presents to an idle population,
that many villages have sprung up there, as it were in the
very face of death. During the past 2500 years the loss of life
and property has been very great, and all efforts to avoid the
force of the eruptions have been altogether futile. The walls
THE STRAITS OF MESSINA. 353
of the city of Catania were raised to a height of sixty feet ; but
all in vain. When the evil day arrived the tide of lava came
sweeping down against this wall, until at lei)gth it poured
over the top, carrying death and destruction with it; and then
flowed on, a distance of fifteen miles, to the Mediterranean,
into which it rushed with a sound like thunder, while the
vapor that arose completely darkened the sun.
We now sailed up the beautiful strait of Messina, between
mountains covered with vines and rustic dwellings ; and
toward evening we anchored in front of the charming city,
bearing the same name as the strait. It appeared like a vast
amphitheatre rising with its white houses and dazzling spires
and domes, bench after bench, up the mountain slope.
We decided to leave the steamer at this place, and going on
shore were soon wandering over a broad beautiful pavement
fronting the strait, and made of quarried slabs of lava. We
ascended a narrow opening between the buildings, and stepped
out upon a second street, paved in the same manner as the first,
but broader and decorated with fountains and statues, while on
either side were magnificent buildings. As twilight began
to com.e on, the bells from the churches and cathedrals
chimed out in harmony, swelling, and then floating off on the
evening breeze; then dying away far out upon the waters.
1 have heard the chiming of bells at Naples, Yenice, and
other cities of Europe, but none seemed so beautiful as those
of Messina.
When the Apostle Paul sailed through these straits as a
prisoner, heathen temples occupied the sites where the
churches now stand. The city was then old, wealthy, and
renowned. It was the station for part of Ctesar's fleet, and
it was here he brought into vogue the Messinian wine.
After he drank of it, it of course became fashionable.
Less than a century ago quaking ^tna, fifty miles south,
shook the city to the ground, burying many of its inhabitants ;
but before long it was rebuilt grander than ever and a popu-
lation of a hundred thousand souls now resides within its walls.
Each of these persons on an average sends to our country
354 THE LIGHT-HOUSE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.
annually six dollars' worth of fruits and other articles. When-
ever I taste a nice orange or drink lemonade I think of Sicily,
just as when I attack what I think is a pumpkin and find it to
be a pear, my mind reverts to California. Never before
did I see such tine peaches as were here, large as a large apple,
and as rosy as the cheeks of a bride.
After remaining a short time on the island of Sicily, we
went on board of an Italian steamer bound for Naples, and
were soon under way. At the eastern end of the strait, we
passed through the narrow channel where
— "Scylla guards the right hand coast,
The left is fell Charybdis' post."
This Scylla, said in heathen mythologies to have been a
beautiful nymph transformed into a sea-monster by the
jealousy of Circe, is in reality a common rock on the Italian
coast; and opposite is the boiling whirlpool of Charybdis.
The pass, so famous in Latin song and Grecian story, is,
although somewhat perilous, by no means such a hell-gate as
the old poets would have us believe it to be. It was form-
erly more dangerous than now ; for in 1793 a large portion
of the rock was broken off, enlarging the channel and stilling
forever the barking of Scylla's fabled hounds.
The falling of this rock proved fatal to the prince of Scylla
and many of his people who, to escape from the frightful
earthquake shocks on shore, had taken refuge on the fishing
boats. About midnight, while they lay asleep in their boats
the rock fell ; the sea instantly rose twenty feet high and
rushed with overwhelming power upon the beach. All the
boats were sunk or wrecked, and 1430 Calabrese perished.
Shortly after midnight, Stromboli, the eternal lighthouse
of the Mediterranean, like the torch of Jehovah, lighted up
the sea grandly, sending its rays far ' and near over the
waters.
The morning found us anchored at a small town on the
coast of Italy, and during the day we stopped at other places
to receive and discharge freight and passengers. "We had a
smooth sea all the way, but on account of the peculiar shape
THE BAY OF NAPLES. 355
of tlie vessel or an insufficiency of ballast, vrc rolled from
side to side not a Jittle. In twenty or thirty minutes after
passengers came on board, they almost invariably became
sea-sick, and a very unpleasant scene ensued on deck. Two
Italian lovers who, even amidst all the pains of mal-de-mer
would not separate for a moment, amused us not a little.
In many places along the coast the mountains rose up
nearly perpendicularly from the very water's edge. The
houses were scattered over tliese mountains even to their sum-
mits ; some of them looking like mere white specks on their
lofty eyries; and some, beneath -n-hich the clouds hovered,
looked as if they were resting in the midst of the sky. In the
evening we enjoyed a still more beautiful sight as we watched
the rows of light from those elevated abodes, shooting out
upon the water, like guiding stars to the wandering mariner.
When we arose early the next morning we were anchored
in the Bay of Naples, justly renowned as being the most
beautiful in the world. From its semicircular margin, grad-
ually at first, but finally more abruptly, rose the mountains,
forming a vast amphitheatre. A little to our left the white
marble buildings, grand cathedral, the columns and spires,
all glittering in the morning sun, seemed to smile across the
bay toward the eastern shore, still blushing in the shadow of
the mountains, while Vesuvius raised its smoky head into the
sunlight, standing forth prominently in the gorgeous scene.
A feeling of profound interest attracted our minds towards
the foot of Vesuvius, although it had not the glitter which
filled the world around it.
Shortly after sunrise Caleb and I went ashore, and were at
once conveyed to the " New-York Hotel." Upon our arrival
there a dozen or more street-boys collected round to help us
with our baggage. "We expected European boys would have
had some manners, but those of Naples disabused us of such
ideas. There was no one at the door to receive us, so we
thumped and rang, and pounded away. It was a long time
before we heard anyon.e stirring, but in a moment more the
356 ^ SLEEPY LANDLORD.
landlord came to the door. He was bare-footed and in his
night-dress and looked as though he had just had an attack
of nightmare. It took him some time to get wide awake
enough to comprehend why he had been disturbed. lie then
confusedly called a servant to show us to our room, and ex-
cused himself for leaving us.
Our cabman, a street-boy or two, and the servant, carried
our baggage up stairs ; but as we did not like the appearance
of things in general, either in the room or about the hotel, we
ordered a retreat to the street. At the foot of the stairs we
again met the landlord, now metamorphosed into a well-dressed
man. He appeared more surprised than at our first inter-
view, and stared at us as we went out, but said not a word
to his departing guests.
At a French hotel not far away we found things more
inviting, and were soon ensconced in a pleasant room.
The comical figure which the American hotel-keeper cut
when he appeared before us called to memory a night visit
which we once made in the mountains of Colorado. Belated
and very hungry we stopped at a log house to ask for some-
thing to eat. All within was silent, and there was no light;
60 we supposed they had gone to bed. Caleb alighted and
knocked. No one opened. Caleb knocked again, hallooing
at the same time. He waited a moment, and then by the
way the chairs rattled we concluded some one was coming.
"We almost dreaded to see the door open, for we feared that
instead of a polite welcome we might meet the muzzle of a
shot-gun.
At length the door was partially opened, and a ghostly-
looking man very scantily attired cautiously stuck his head
through the opening. It was plainly to be seen that he was
more frightened than we were ; so by way of reassuring him
we said : —
" Good evening."
"How are you," was the trembling response.
" We have been riding all the afternoon without anything
A REMINISCENCE OF COLORADO.
or *»
to eat, and we expect to ride on to the next village to night ;
can you let us have a little something?"
" I'll see the old woman," said the ghost ; and then he drew
in his head.
S
'"S-v^-"^
A COLORADO GHOST.
In a moment we heard a harsh voice, which we guessed
belonged to the "old woman," shouting: —
" Who are them fellers, anyhow? What are tliev wantin'
to eat this time of night for? "
The ghost explained.
" Well," growled the unseen lady, " here's a i:)arcel of bread ;
that e'll do 'era."
The bread was according!}^ brought. It wasn't larger than
one's fist, yet woe to the toes upon M-hicli it might drop, for
it was as hard as a stone. 1 asked him if we could not have
some butter and meat.
The man of the house stepped back ngain to ask his wife ;
and she responded : —
"What doii't them fellers want ? I guess tliev hain't had
nothin' for a week. Here, take 'em this. We'll pick 'em
up dead-foundered in the ujornino; somewhere alonf the
road — see if we don't!" Then the ghost brought us some
butter.
358 ■'^ GO FORWARD REJOICING.
' You can get U3 a little meat, can't you ? " said Caleb.
The ghost again withdrew ; then from within we heard his
wife saying : —
" Ze swizzards, that's enough for 'em to die on without
wastin' any more on 'em ! I want you to understand they
sha'n't have nothin' more about these diggins'. Keep a
woman a cookin' and a sweatin' to 'com'date some of your
long yeard friends ! Do you hear ? they shan't have nothin'
more."
Without waiting to hear the man's report, we settled with
him as soon as possible for our bread and butter, and then
went on our way rejoicing.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
NAPLES.
TIIE first thing on the doclcet after arriving at Naples was
to procure the services of a guide to show us around.
A stately -looking individual was accordingly introduced to
us as a candidate for the position, and we proceeded to inves-
tigate his ability to speak the English language correctly.
We found that he "was able to say a few cut-and-dried
words prepared for such occasions, in good style, but after
that thev were so intermixed with lansjuao-es foreis-n to us
that we failed to understand them. Wishing to give him a
fair chance, we asked him to explain what was meant by the
expression "Everything is lovely, and the goose hangs high,"
and other equally simple questions. A perfect torrent of
unconnected semi-English words was his response. In short,
we did not know what he was talking about ; neither did he
seem to understand us any better when we told him he would
not answer our purpose, and tried to send him away. His
jargon threatened to be interminable,. and neither words or
motions would induce him to leave us. Sowe were forced
to be impolite, and to appeal to an attache of the hotel who,
in response to our earnest ejaculation, " Take him out," led
him away by the coat-collar. A second guide now presented
himself, and although he was an improvement on the first as
far as talking English was concerned, yet as he could not run
well out of his accustomed rut, we sent him away also. In
a third individual we met a man whose education had! not
been neglected, and speedily engaged him..
22 359
360
THE CHURCH OF SAN MARTlNO.
It was Sunday, and we visited the Church of San Martino.
We were conducted down a marble stairway to tiie basement
of the church, where we were shown a sculpture representing
the " Descent from the cross." Our guide told us that the
English had ofiered to purchase it for its weight in gold, but
had been refused. The couch upon which the Saviour lav
the crown of thorns, the
thin white covering thrown
over him, were all sculp-
tured from one piece of
marble; yet they looked
as distinct and as natural
as though real. One could
scarcely believe that this
delicate covering as it
floated in graceful ridges
and curves over the
form of the Saviour
was actually part of the
same marble that composed
that form. Add to this,
that heavenly look that
shone from the eyes and
features under that cover-
ing, and surely this sculpture deserved its place among the
finest works of art.
Then we visited the Cathedral — of course the principal
ecclesiastical structure of the city. The services within
attracted our attention at once, as they were of peculiar
interest that day.
Saint Januarius was born in Naples, and at the time of his
martyrdom was Bishop of Benevento. During the reign of
Diocletian this saint visited some Christian friends who had
been cast into prison on account of their religion. For this
he was carried in chains with other prisoners to Pozzuoli, a
few miles south-west of Naples, where, as the peo]>le of
Naples believe, he and six others were cast into a den of wild
TAKE HIM OtrX!
I"
PUBLIC EXHIBITION OF MIRACLES. 361
beasts, but as tliey remained there unharmed, they were
taken out and beheaded.
Afterward, it is supposed, the remains of the martyr were
brought to this cathedral, and interred in one of its chapels.
Two vials containing a hard-looking substance supposed to
be his blood, and a glass vessel containing liishead, are kept
in another chapel. At three seasons of the year, in May,
September, and December, these vials and the vessel contain-
ing): the head are brought near each other, and miracles are
eaid to result ; for on such occasions the hard substance in
the vials softens and turns into a liquid.
The exhibition of these miracles is made on eight consec-
utive days. It requires a longer time to perform it on the
first day than on the following days, while toward the last
it can be done in a very short time. "While it is in progress
the priests pass round collecting money from the audience.
Our visit chanced to be on one of these miracle days. As
"we stepped in, the bishop, in his robes and accompanied by
a couple of priests holding up his train, with a stately solem-
nity marched down from his throne and passed to and fro
behind a balustrade, holding these vials in bis hands for the
people to kiss. They crowded round him with eager enthu-
siasm, and as they stretched their necks to touch their lips to
the sacred relics, their countenances shone with ecstasy;
then, completely happy, they stepped back to let others enjoy
the same boon.
All over the cathedral were confessionals, round which
the women were collected, to pour the secrets of their lives
into the ears of the priests within ; after which, they
received a few words of advice or consolation in a low tone
from their spiritual guides, and then through an opening in
the side of the eonfessional, moved away to make room for
others.
In this cathedral all that was beautiful and to be admired
in fresco, painting, sculpture, statuar}', and other ornamenta-
tion of every description seemed to be scattered everywhere
in the greatest profusion. The firs-t great feature that we
362 THE GREAT CATHEDRAL.
noticed was, that a nave mucli higlier tlian the two side aisles
ran parallel with them from end to end. On either side of
this nave, and separating it from the two aisles, ran a row of
granite columns so higlily polished as to shine like a looking-
glass, wavy in places like marble. They were square, yet
fluted at the corners, finely based and capped, very large,
high, and imposing to the greatest degree. The paintings
and frescoes on the ceiling were most exquisite. The high
altar, choir, and balustrades of this nave, with their various
costly ornaments and gilding, dazzled the eye; while the two
candelabra on jasper columns, and the chapels with their
frescoes and bas-reliefs, were ideals of beauty.
This cathedral is built in the form of a Greek cross, and
has various crypts beneath the ends of the transverse portions
and nnder tlie side aisles, for chapels and altars. Of the
various chapels, tliat of St. Januarius is the finest. On the
great bronze gate leading to it were statues of St. Peter and
St. Paul. Inside and around the chapel were forty-two
Corinthian brocatello columns cut with niches containinjr,
besides those of bronze, thirty-seven silver statues of dificrent
saints. The marble of the high altar was composed of por-
phyry set off in the most costly style by ornaments, M'hile
the bust of Jannarius was covered with rich embroidery.
A large jeweled collar was about the neck, attached to which
were shifts which this saint has received from different kinirs.
The mitre upon his head Avas studded M'ith nearly four
thousand precious stones, not a few of which were diamonds.
The six common altars of this chapel, three on each side,
were beautifully frescoed at the angles and lunettes, and were,
upon the whole, extremely beautiful.
In the sacristy of this same chapel, were a chalice, dishes
carved with representations of our Lord's passion, a pyx
surmounted by a cross studded with jewels, vases, and
various other objects, all in massive gold. There was a
large sphere of silver, studded and inlaid with precious
stones, and circled with a row of diamonds, above which
were two golden ears of corn which were presented by Maria
THE BOURBON MUSEUM.
363
Teresa of Austria. But why attempt a description of such
treasures? Hundreds of objects caught the eye, that could
not be noticed by the pen.
Leaving the cathedral,
we visited the Museo Bor-
bonico, or Bourbon Muse-
um — named after the hite
royal family. It is situited
in the northern part of
the city and is the chief
object of interest in Naples.
As we rolled along, we ob-
served vegetable and fish-
stalls, wherever there was
room for them on the side-
walks. Children, ragged
and dirty, thronged the
streets ; yet they appeared
gay and active and appar-
ently in n o danger o f
starving; for many stores
were full of macaroni, for sale so cheap that ten centissimi,
or two cents, would buy enough to supply a child with
food for a day. We passed a crowd collected round a
man who was recounting the miracles performed by a wax-
work image, and met several unearthly -looking beings —
ragged, maimed, and apparently suffering every possible
affliction. One, in particular, was pointed out to us as
"from America"; but we judged our guide was mistaken.
On arriving at the museum we entered, and at once, from
the indication of the number of halls, and the numberless
objects of interest from different nations and of different
epochs, perceived that we had a grand treat before us ; but
before we were half through all the windings of the building,
or had seen a quarter of the objects — numbering a great
many thousands — we found that our first idea of its vastness
and variety fell far short of the reality.
AN AFFLICTED NEAPOLITAN.
364
ANCIENT MARBLES.
On the ground-floor, most of the ancient paintings -were
from Pompeii and Herculaneum ; but many of them though
beautifully executed were now considerably faded. Venus
weeping over the death of Adonis; the thirteen female
dancers, very graceful in appearance ; the Trojan horse ;
Hercules slaying the Nemean lion, and Charity, or Perronea
suckling her own father Simon, were among the number.
The collection of ancient marble statues and bas-reliefs was
mostly from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other ruined cities
not only of Italy, but of Greece. Here was a dying gladiator,
a victorious athlete, and a group in which two men were skin-
ning a hog to offer as a sacrifice. There, in bas-reliefs, were
figures that stood out boldly from the slabs ; and again, those
that only slightly projected. Here were delineated, on
different slabs, the sports of the circus; a faun striking a
child, and a cupid riding a dolphin ; and an antique Grecian
work representing a hunter resting ; also Bacchus, followed by
bacchanites and fauns, just sitting down to the banquet.
BACCHANALIAK DASCE — POMPEII.
In the gallery of Adonis was the celebrated hermaphrodite
faun, covered by a transparent garment, allowing only a
glimpse of its curious shape. This divinity was found in
the ruins of Pompeii.
In another gallery was the renowned group of the Toro
BRONZE STATUES— CABINET OF GEMS. 365
Farnese, or the Farnese bull. This represented the two sons
of Antiope avenging their mother by tying to the horns of a
bull, Dirces, the wife of Lycus, king of Thebes. This king,
having ascended the throue, slew the husband of Antiope,
and carried her to Thebes, where she was cruelly treated by
Dirces; upon which her sons rose up, took the city, and put
to death her persecutors.
The gallery of bronze statues contained the finest collec-
tions of their kind in existence. Most of these were from
Pompeii and Ilerculaneum. The dancing faun was very
graceful; the wrestlers, the huntress Diana, and an equestrian
statue of Nero, we very much admired; while the statue
found in Herculaneura, representing Mercury in repose, is
considered to be the finest bronze statue in the world.
Passing from the ground-floor to the one above, we immedi-
ately entered the halls, six in number, of the small bronzes.
These halls contained a collection of upwards of fifteen thou-
sand objects, consisting of various articles representing the
domestic life of the inhabitants of Pompeii and Ilerculaneum.
There were lamp-stands, lamps, chandeliers, balances, weights,
steelyards, instruments of husbandry, kitchen and bathing
utensils, tools, horse-trappings, armor, pieces of carts, objects
of religious and public worship, theatrical tickets, surgical and
musical instruments, and various other objects.
The cabinets of gems and precious objects were especially
interesting. Here were upwards of forty thousand coins of
various periods, fi'om Magna Graecia, Sicily, and other coun-
tries. The jewelry, cameos, intaglio ornaments, and precious
and peculiar objects from Pompeii and Herculaneum were
numerous. Here were loaves of bread and biscuits, consider-
ably charred, but of the same shape as when put in the oven
to bake, having been left behind in that terrible flight before
the torrents of ashes, cinders, and lava, which overwhelmed
those cities nearly two thousand years ago. Fruits in glass
dishes, just as they were placed in the safe or upon the table,
bottles of wine, vegetables, and nuts, were among the collec-
tions in this part of the museum. Also finger-rings, still on
366 AN ECCLESIASTICAL PROCESSION.
the skeletons fingers of those wlio once owned them ; and
other jewelry which had been removed from skeletons which
now looked grimly out from their glass cases.
We now came to the other halls of painting. These halls
are eight in number. The paintings were collections from
different schools, from the eleventh century down to the
present time. They were almost entirely representations of
Christ, the Yirgin Mary, the disciples and martyrs, and
of the struggles and battles between Chribtians and their
persecutors. The hall of the master-pieces was the finest.
Here we saw Cupid slumbering while the Zephyrs shook his
wings ; Christ seated in heaven crowning the Virgin Mary
with the clouds; the Last Judgment, copied from Michael
Angelo's picture at Home ; " The Holy Family " by Kaphael;
Titian's celebrated Magdalen in Prayer, and many others.
This ended the museum, and we returned to our hotel
feeling that our day's work had exhausted us more than
mauling rails would have done ; yet we felt fully repaid for
the time and fatigue.
Soon after reaching our hotel we saw a procession coming
down the street. In the van were fifteen or twenty priests
in their proper robes. Behind was the bisliop in full eccle-
siastical vestments; while on either side were two priests
carrying a canopy over his head. On either side and behind
were soldiers bearing muskets. As they passed along, the
people in the street and on the side-walks fell upon their
knees, and crouched upon the ground ; and even our French
landlord — a very intelligent man — did the same. We had
heard of some instances when foreigners who did not bow
down to the processions, had been struck on the knees by
parties bearing clubs to enforce the necessary amount of
reverence.
After taking some refreshments, Caleb and I took a stroll
on foot. I had often heard that in Italy, and especially in
Naples, the greatest contrasts in social life were to be seen ;
and we were soon convinced of the truth of this statement.
Here came a carriage and horses, finer than any we had ever
A STROLL THROUGH THE CITY,
367
Been before. The horses were large fiery blacks with feathers
in their heads. Two stylish gentlemen wearing white kid
gloves, one of whom acted as driver, sat in front on a lofty
seat, while their long coat-tails hung down behind, sparkling
with bright buttons. In the carriage proper sat four laughing
belles, with hats well feathered and richly trimmed, to say
nothing of the shiny ribbons floating from their necks and
arms. As they passed they bestowed a smile on Caleb and
myself. Scarcely had they disappeared when there came
a donkey drawing a sort of go-cart, containing an old woman
and her numerous famil)' of daughters, all ragged and dirty,
piled in among old rags, bags, baskets, and trash.
Then we heard most enchanting singing and instrumental
music floating from the parlor of some Italian mansion. It
MUTUAL RECOGNITION.
was a lady's voice ; and we listened delighted ; but in the
midst of the song we were suddenly startled by a horrible
braying close to our heads.
" He-haw ! he-haw ! "
" Get out you jackass, or I'll be the death of you," was my
polite reply.
We passed on a short distance, and then across the street
368
THREE YOUNG LADIES.
came three young ladies with flowers in their hands, as if to
intercept us. They drew near, smiled, and then began to
place a flower or two in our button-holes; at the same time
making signiticaut gestures. Caleb's virtuous indignation
luckily came to our relief, and before it they quailed and
ehrunk abashed away.
At sundown we wandered back to the hotel, and after
dark amused ourselves in looking across the waters of the
bay to "Vesuvius, as it poured down its fiery stream of lava.
AVe retired to rest with the pleasing thought that we were
soon to see the volcano face to face.
CHAPTEK XL.
WONDERS OF THE COAST WEST OF NAPLES.
AT early morn we were in our cab, and wheeling through
the streets in the western suburbs of Naples. We
halted at the Yilla Reale, a magnificent promenade for the
fashionable world, or rather a place for mutual admiration
and self-exhibition. It was too early for Caleb and myself
to show ourselves oif on the promenade, so we gave our
attention to the attractions of the place. Its natural beauties
could hardly be excelled, for the Villa Peale runs lengthwise
along the bay, with pleasant alleys and winding paths,
shaded with evergreens and acacias, and adorned with some
remarkable grottoes, gardens, fountains, and statues, and two
small temples dedicated to Yirgil and Tasso.
In one place was an elliptical fountain, from the centre of
which rose up in large proportions two marble statues repre-
senting Hercules strangling the giant Anteus. In the centre
of another fountain was a group of three figures representing
the rape of Egina, the girl turning her eyes toward her
defender, in whose arms she was held, while her despoiler
was trampled imder his feet. In another part of this prom-
enade we noticed a fighting gladiator whose muscles and
nerves were finely executed ; and, again, Hercules hilling the
Nemean lion — the hero has his knee upon the lion's back
and is rending apart his jaws.
A short distance beyond the Yilla Reale, the shore curves
round a hill or promontory. Through this elevation the
ancients cut a tunnel, as a means of easier communication
3G9
370
THE TOMB OF VIRGIL.
between Naples and the country round the bay. It was
called the grotto of Porilipo. Immediately before entering,
we noticed, a few steps to the left, the supposed tomb of
Yirgil. Naples was the poet's favorite resort, and it is said
that after his death Augustus had his remains conveyed to
the place he so much admired. However this may be, the
people of Naples should
be ashamed of themselves,
since they believe this is
his tomb, to have allowed
it to be so sadly neglected.
We passed through the
tunnel and found it a
delightful place for a drive.
It is nearly half a mile in
length, twenty-two feet
wide, and in some parts
sixty -five feet high, and
arched at the top.
Passins: out from the
tunnel, we observed that
the ground near its en-
trance was of volcanic
origin ; in fact, such was
TUNNEL AT NAPLES. the casc for miles along
this shore. Old craters, and the dehris which they had thrown
up were frequently to be met with. At different places we
stopped at mineral springs of various degrees of warmth,
each having a peculiar quality of its own. The ancients
made them a constant resort, as they were supposed to effect
wonderful cures, but for some reason, in modern times, they
have fallen into disuse.
In one of the smaller hills, facing the laTce of Agnano, was
that peculiar phenomenon, the renowned " Grotto del Cane,"
a dark-looking place four feet wide and nine or ten deep.
At the bottom of this grotto is a deposit of carbonic acid gas
which rises to the height of about a foot and a half. A man,
THE DOGS' GROTTO.
371
may safely enter; but dog?, who do so, except the larger
species, inliale the poisonous gas, which immediately proves
fatal to them. The ancients were acquainted with this phe-
nomenon, which to them was a mystery, and on that account
they gave it its present name, which signifies the Dogs'
Grotto.
The young rascals in the neighboring villages used to drive
quite a profitable trade in animals of the canine and feline
races. On auspicious nights they used to lie in wait, at back
doors and corners which their four-footed victims were likely
ENTICING A VICTIM.
to frequent. If not frightened away by the sudden appear-
ance of the ragged urchin and his bag, the animal's fate was
sealed. The tempting bait allured him nearer and nearer,
until within the clutches of the enemy. The next day he
would be sold to inquisitive travelers, and for their edification
let down into the poisonous gas of the grotto.
Leaving this interesting grotto, we drove westward along
the bay, and soon came to the city of Pozzuoli. Ruins every-
where met the eye, and the place presented a very dilapidated
appearance. When Pozzuoli was founded, no one can tell.
Its origin dates back to the obscurity of long-past ages;
some historians believing that it was founded many years
antecedent to the Trojan war. It was a flourishing city
372 ■*■ CITY IN RUINS.
during the days of the Koman republic, for Cicero called it
" Little Rome." In those days, this city, together with the
villages farther along the shores of the bay, were resorted to
by the wealthy and powerful citizens of Rome during the
summer months, and here they had their magnificent baths
and villas.
After the fall of the Roman empire Pozzuoli was taken at
various times, and was almost reduced to a heap of ruins.
The incursions of the Goths, Yandals, Lombards, Saracens,
Normans and Turks, together with the earthquakes and
volcanic eruptions by which this city has been visited, lielped
to reduce it to its present condition. During the eartliquake
and eruption in the year 1538, it was so greatly injured that
it was almost entirely deserted. So fearful was the shock
that the sea retired from the shore upwards of two hundred
yards ; and in the short space of two days the Monte Nuovo,
which we saw soon after leavine: Pozzuoli, rose to the height
of four hundred feet.
As we gazed upon this place it presented to view a collec-
tion of old foundations, old walls of brick and stone,
partially crumbled houses, temples, and theatres, all scattered
here and there upon the rough hills among a few new, and,
of course, inhabited, buildings. By the word new, I mean
comparatively so; for many of them were more than a
century old.
We visited the temple of Serapis, and noticed, several feet
above its pavement, holes in the columns, eaten by mollusks ;
in fact, many of their shells remained partly embedded,
adhering as firmly as though they M'ere a portion of the
original stone — thus indicating that the sea at one time
flooded the lower part of this temple. Again, from pave-
ments of former years being found below the present sea-
level, it seems that at one time the sea was much lower than
at present, and about thirty feet lower than at the time when
those mollusks were at work upon these columns. Other
edifices, also along the shore of the bay, not far from this
THE AMPniTUEATRE. 373
point, ■w'hich were on dry land at the time of Augustus, are
now partly under water.
In the centre of Pozzuoli was the amphitheatre ; well
preserved, and stupendous in structure. Thirty thousand
people could easily he accommodated with seats within its
walls. The great arena was three hundred and sixteen feet
in length, and one hundred and thirty feet in breadth. This
was the scene of combats between men and men, men and
wild beasts, and between wild beasts themselves. Surround-
ing this arena was a wall ten or twelve feet high, surmounted
by a railing to prevent the furious wild beasts from spring-
ing over, while from behind the railing rose the seats, one
behind another, like a huge flight of steps, reaching back to
the outer wall and rising to its summit. Here were iron
bolts running down into the wall, by means of which a
canvas was stretched over the vast concourse of people. The
gladiators entered from doors at each end, while the wild
beasts were suddenly sent up from their dens below through
trap-doors in the platform of the arena. Then the combat
commenced, which was to end in the death of man or beast,
or probably both; while the shouts of the spectators rose
louder and louder, as the danger of the combatants became
more imminent, till the fatal climax was reached.
AYe went below and visited some of the dens for the wild
beasts. They were generally dug into the side of the earth,
walled round, and closed in front by an iron gate. Our
guide conducted us to one of these, into which Saint Janua-
rius (spoken of in a previous chapter) was said to have been
thrown unharmed.
The boat-fights between gladiators were hold in this
amphitheatre. Part of the platform of tlie arena was
removed, and then heavy sliding doors closed in a rectangu-
lar space, into which the water flowed through an aqueduct
connected with the bay. The boats of the gladiators were
then introduced, and the deadly combat began.
It is recorded in the twenty-eighth chapter of the Acts of
the Apostles, that, — " After one day the south wind blew,
374:
ANCIENT PUTEOLI.
and we came tlie next day to Puteoli." We found that the
ancient Puteoli is the same as our modern Pozzuoli. Our
guide showed us some marble steps running down into the
water, which the people held in great veneration. They
considered them to be the same that St. Paul first set foot
upon when he landed at Pozzuoli. What a contrast ! — we
alighted at these same steps from a cab.
As we were about to proceed, a score of little boys collected
round us, and brushed the dust from our carriage seats.
Notwithstanding their number, nearly every one contrived
to give the cushions a rub, or at least a touch; and some of
them volunteered to brush the dust from our boots. As we
stepped into our vehicle, two score of little paws were
RESULT OF PAYING OFF THE BOYS.
thrust towards us. As we could not undertake to reward
them all, Caleb thought it would be the fair thing to give
every one an equal chance; so he threw a handful of coins
towards them. The result was a big scramble, a pile of legs
and necks, heads and feet, arms, hands, and bodies, scraping
and rooting in the dust, while from beneath came mingled
cries of pain and disappointment. We hurried away, for we
CICERO'S VILLA— LAKE LUCRIXE. 375
were fearful that we might be called upon to pay a surgeon's
bill.
Our attention was drawn to the extensive ruins of the villa
of Cicero. These ruins were parti}' submerged in the bay,
yet the walls looked as if they would stand 'the washing of
the waves for long years to come. Here Cicero composed
his " Quaestiones Academicse." Continuing our journey,
we scarcely ever lacked entertainment from some ruin or
other, while the baths especially attracted our attention,
their size and numbers being almost beyond belief.
We passed the Lucrine Lake, only a short distance from
the bay. Unfortunately this beautiful lake Mas, by the erup-
tion in 1538, partially filled, and much of its beauty spoiled.
It was celebrated among the ancients fur the pleasure parties
that visited its waters at night; and as I looked out upon its
surface I almost realized the gay scene which it must have
presented in that far-off time.
Lake Avernus to the west of Monte Nuovo, appeared to
be situated in an extinct volcano; extinct probably ages
before Homer's time. At least he sang of the thick and
wild forests once surrounding this lake, and the grottoes
into which the light of the sun never penetrated, which were
the homes of the Cimmerians — a people who took the greatest
interest in hearing or relating stories of the marvelous
eruptions of the volcano. From tlie peculiar vapors arising
from these waters, the ancients supposed that every bird that
winged its flight across them dropped lifeless; and tradition
said that this was the place where Ulysses made his descent
into the lower regions.
A short ride to the west of this lake terminated our excur-
sion in that direction. This was at a point ten miles west of
Kaples. Here were to be found the ruins of Baife, situated
on a bay of the same name, extending into the land, from
the larger bay of Naples. This city was never equal to
Pozzuoli in commercial importance, but if possible was more
lovely in appearance, on account of its position on this beau-
tiful little bay, and also because of its thermal springs and
23
376 ^ TEMPLE OF VENUS.
delightful climate ; the north -winds being warded off by the
hills in the rear, while the delicate breezes from the waters of
the bay came fanning the city into repose. According to
Horace, it was the most delightful place on earth. Magnifi-
cent villas once existed here belonging to Cresar, Augustus,
Pompey, Tiberius, Nero, Domitian, Adrian, Crassus, Caligu-
la, Caracalla, Piso, Ilortensius, and other wealthy and ambi-
tious Ilomans.
At the fall of the Koman empire the splendors of this
place decayed, and now the warm springs, from long disuse,
have become stagnant pools, and from the innumerable
decaying ruins scattered here and there, miasmatic vapors
arise, spreading sickness and disease over this once fair and
salubrious resort. An old castle, near which now and then
a vessel anchors, together with six or eight houses built out
of the surrounding ruins, are the only signs of haliitation.
The ruins consist mostly of bricks, mosaics, and bn^ken
walls, scattered over the soil, with here and there the foun-
dation of some palace or bath, extending now far down into
the water, thus indicating a change of suiface in the ground.
There are, however, three structures pretty well preserved.
These were once thought to be temples of Diana, Mercury,
and Yenus; but subsequent research has ])roved that the
two first at least, were baths ; the last probably was what it
was first supposed to be — a temple of Venus. These struc-
tures stand at the foot of a hill. Before each is built a house,
fenced round, with a gate which is opened b}' tlie inmates
when visitors wish to enter. Within the enclosure are small
gardens containing grapes and other fruits. "We made a
trifling purchase as it was, of course, expected that we would.
When visiting one of the baths, three or four women and
girls, with turbans round their heads, and some rude musical
instruments in their hands, followed us. They danced, sang,
and played. Although they had not the lightest feet or the
most delicate steps, their performance was comical in its
rudeness. When the dance was over they passed a basket
round for donations. We contributed a few small coins, but
ANCIENT BATHS.
377
from their dissatisfied looks and actions thej evidentlj
expected more.
DISSATISFIED DAMSELS.
The appearance of the two baths was very singular. With-
out and within they were circular, and appeared like vast
domes resting upon the ground. An immense basin was
scooped out of the ground in each ; the bottom of which was
inlaid with mosaics. The temple of Venus had also the
appearance of a dome, and was of beautiful proportions,
octagonal on the outside but circular within.
At a rude hotel close by, we took a late dinner. Our
meal consisted of bread, cheese, and eggs boiled very hard.
Our guide ate in the kitchen ; I do not know whether it was
on account of his not wanting to impose his presence upon
us while at the table, or because he M'anted something better
than was set before us.
As the sun was sinking in the west, we were again rolling
along the streets of Naples toward our hotel, forgetful of the
378 THE FAIR NEAPOLITANS.
ruins, for all around us were objects more attractive to young
men — ladies taking their evening rides. " Beautiful " is too
weak a term to apply to the "sweet sixteens" of Naples. I
never saw ladies that more completely took my eye — with the
exception of one. Even Caleb was captivated ; his counte-
nance never shone so pleasantly as when these laugliing
belles rode past us. I could not blame him. The black
flowing hair, the black sparkling eyes, the rosy complexion,
and the almost perfect Grecian features of these Neapolitan
ladies, would surely captivate any gentleman who admired
the fair sex. They are scarcely ever seen in the company of
young gentlemen, as that is not allowable, unless one of iheir
parents is present. Consequently, time spent in courting is
very limited, and lovers labor under difficulties unknown In
America. The Americans possibly have too much court-
ship ; yet, on the other hand, the Italians perhaps have too
little, and their customs in this respect may account for the
fact that so many of the women of Naples follow the
most degraded lives.
Nor do the great majority of the virtuous ladies of ibe
higher class of Naples society live very happily. The chief
recreation of those who can afford it is carriage driving ;
those who cannot ride, stay at home, as it is thought
degrading for a lady of any pretensions to walk, while
many think it would never do to be seen at work. How
can such ladies, without anything to do, without the enjoy-
ment of gentlemen's society, and sitting all day pining
away in their dark parlors, be other than idle, useless,
unhappy women — the fairest of their sex while in the
bloom of youth, but anything but beautiful Avhen they
grow old ?
CHAPTER XLI.
HERCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS.
THE following morning we resolved to visit Hercnlanenm,
and conducted by a guide in due time approached that
celebrated ruin.
"We descended slowly, lower and lower still, the flickering
lights only revealing the fringes of the dark chasm below.
The layers of soil could be distinctly traced between the
numerous strata of lava ; for after each eruption the earth
accumulated over the red deposit, to be itself in turn covered
by a fresh inundation of the fiery stream when the next
outbreak of the mountain took place.
We had already descended about a hundred feet into the
bowels of the earth, and had begun to wonder whither onr
grimy guide was taking us;, so we asked him whether the
road really led to Herculaneum, or whether it terminated in
the bottomless pit or the ever-raging fires of Vesuvius. He
grinned and motioned for us still to proceed, and as he was
the presiding deity ofthe place, there was nothing left for us
but to obey.
We followed him in silence, and before long were walking
upon the pavement of a city which for eighteen centuries
had been hidden from the light of day. Our foolish thoughts
and idle words were hushed as we realized the lesson taught
by the scene around us. Here were the deep ruts worn by
ancient Roman carriages long before the coming of Christ.
Here were houses and shops at which St, Paul might have
gazed, or into which St. Peter or St. James might have
379
380
THE BURIED CITY.
entered. Here were old houses shattered by an earthquake
eight years before the final catastrophe which overwhelmed
the city. Tiie hands which propped them up were still
Btrong and muscular when the fiery torrent descended and
the burning ashes fell, and every living soul perished.
Wandering there, we seemed to live in that far-off time, and
vividly as we might have pictured the habitations, men, and
manners of by-gone ages, we realized now, as we trod the
streets of the buried city, far more perfectly the every day
life of the people of Italy two thousand years ago.
HERCULANKUM THE THSATRE.
Our guide conducted us to the theatre, and as we followed
him we could hear the rumbling of the carriage wheels in the
street far above our heads, sounding like distant thunder;
for over the buried cities of antiquity, modern abodes had
been reared, the inhabitants of which, until the last few
years, were all unconscious that beneath thorn lay such won-
drous relics of the past. In fact, although Ilerculaneum and
BOUND FOR VESUVIUS. 381
Pompeii were both historically known, and the story of their
destruction familiar, it was only recently that their exact sites
were discovered.
Tlie theatre particularly attracted us. It very much
resembled that mentioned in the last chapter, tiie seats rising
in tiers from the ground, reaching the summit of the outer
wall at the top grade. We stood there on the floor or ])lat-
form where the actors must have performed their part in that
very "olden time;" and as we gazed on the vast ste])s rising
one above the other, we thought how different must the
scene have been when eight thi>usand persons were seated
there, and eight thousand pairs of eyes were riveted on the
spectacle below.
When we returned to the upper world the sun was
descending toward the west, and we bespoke lively horses
for our journey np Vesuvius; but in our hurr}' an uncouth
guide was forced upon us. At the start he took the lead, but
we soon overtook and passed him. Our horses were liery
animals, and we gave them the rein. Glancing backward,
we saw our guide far in the rear, spurring, and whipping his
lazy beast; but on we flew without paying any attention to
his clamors for us to go slower. Our road wound up the
side of the mountain along a graded road. At times it was
almost level, and then again very steep, twisting here and
there in order to avoid great chunks and masses of lava.
Kow we passed through a broken field or stream of this
volcanic matter, the light color of which bespoke its age.
Again we came upon some that was fresher, and of a darker
color; or upon a new stream almost black-looking, as if it
had cooled but yesterday, appearing in outward form — but
without the motion— as it did when first it swept down the
mountain-side. Kot infrequently we saw a fresh stream
coursing tlirougli an orchard, cooking the fruits and burning
everything with which it came in contact.
When we were about two-thirds up we stopped to look
back and rest our horses. We could see where the lava
coursed its way down the mountain-side until lost in the
382
REMINISCENCES OF THE VOLCANO.
luxuriant valley miles away ; and we wondered how many a
village and skeleton might speak from under those deposits
had they but living tongues. We recalled to mind the
eruption of 1779, during which hot stones, one of them
measuring over one hundred feet in circumference, were
hurled two thousand feet in the air ; while sulphurous smoke
in dense rolling clouds rose to the height of twelve thousand
feet above the crater, and vivid streams of fire shot upwards
"our horses WKRE FIKUY, AND \VK UAVt nihil illi. l;t.l.N."
to the sky. "We remembered also the eruption of 1861, when
a great orifice opened, about one-fourth of the way up the
mount, and otliers gaped at different points, from all of
wliich red-hot streams of lava poured, and forked streams of
electric fire shot out their livid tongues. From a combina-
tion of several of these was formed a stream of lava Imlf a
mile broad and twenty-five feet deep, threatening in its
course the utter destruction of Torre del Greco, a city of
twenty-two thousand inhabitants. All this we called to
ABUSED BY THE GUIDE.
383
mind; but had onr visit been a little later we miglit have
had more to think of, for three or four months after our
visit several villages were partly destroyed, many of the
inhabitants fled, and some even lost their lives.
As before stated, we had left our guide a long way oflf, but
he soon rode up, cursing and swearing. Caleb didn't believe
in fighting; neither did I. So we put spurs to our horees,
and again ran away from the fellow, at which slight he
seemed to grow more angry than ever, and indulged in many
"OCR ASSAILANTS SOON LOST TIIKIR LEGS."
impolite expressions respecting us. At last we approached
the foot of the steep cone, about four thousand feet above
the level of tlie bay, and as we did so, out from a piratical-
looking house issued five or six roguish-lookino: fellows
armed with long sticks. They immediately grabbed our
horses' tails, and pretended to urge them forward with tlieir
poles, while really they did their best to hold them back.
Not caring for their assistance or company we spurred on
384: CLIMBING THE CONE.
our steeds, who seemed to feel the insult as much as we did,
and sprang forward at such a rate that our assailants lost
their legs, and were soon left in a demoralized condition far
in the rear.
At the foot of the cone we singled out a boy to hold our
horses and hired four robust men to assist us in our ascent.
Our conductor had not yet arrived, but the rascals behind us,
having picked themselves up, were approaching as fast as
they could. We did not wait for anybody, but with a moun-
taineer attached to each arm, moved on at once, while a boy,
unbidden, followed behind, carrying Mine, and eggs to roast
on the lava.
We ascended diagonally over gnarly chunks of all shnpes
and sizes, our attendants pulling and pushing, and staying
us as best thev could, sometimes being: of service but more
frequently in the way, until we found ourselves at a stream
of red-hot lava, ten or twelve feet across, and three or four
feet high. It was slowly winding down the side of the
mountain, but was so small in volume that it was lost among
the obstructions long before reaching the valley.
It is strange how long the lava holds its heat. Among the
crevices it has been known to retain a considerable amount
of warmth for eight years. As we stepped close to this
stream it burned our faces, scorched our hands and clothes,
and forced us to retreat. Our attendants dipped the ends of
their green canes into it, when they blazed up and were
quickly consumed. Presently, they drew out a couple of
lumps, and pressed into them two Italian coins which we had
handed to them. In an instant the coins were red-hot.
Then our egg boy rubbed some spittle on liis eggs, searched
out an old streamlet of lava that looked as if it was about
cold, put liis eggs upon it, and in a moment handed them to
us very nicely cooked.
We now pressed on for the crater, past other streams of lava.
By the time we reached the summit it was growing dai'k, and
the fiery abyss was revealed to us in a frightful manner, glar-
ing, blubbering and swelling like the bottomless jjit of perdi-
AT THE CRATER.
385
tion. The angry surges almost splashed upon us, and we
retreated appalled and scampered down the side of the cone,
slipping, and stumbling, and occasionally barking a limb and
slidin"- on our backs, till at last we reached our horses. Here
we found our guide who appeared to have recovered his
temper and to be contented and happy ; but the five other
fellows looked angry, grinned sarcastically, and even menac-
ingly. We grasped tightly our green wooden canes — not
that we had any apprehensions, but to try our nerves. One
I LET MV HORSE OUT A LITTLE.
of them vented his wrath by slapping the boy who had held
our horses, but we made it up to the boy by giving him an
extra franc.
In going down the mountains, at a place where the descent
was gradual 1 let my horse out a little, and when going quite
fast he came suddenly to a steep pitch where he stumbled
badly and turned a complete somersault. Luckily for me I
was thrown from the saddle at the outset, and regained my
feet and horse without suffering serious damage.
As we continued on down the mountain we were delighted
with the sight of the many hundred lights of the city, curving
386 AGAIN SWINDLED.
round the bay like necklaces studded with sparkling diamonds,
and with the view out upon the smooth waters gemmed with
many a green island reaching out one beyond another, even
to the sea ; for they formed a beautiful picture such as one
seldom sees even in the course of a lifetime. At the bottom
of the mountain we found the cabman and guide who had
conducted us to Herculaneum, awaiting to take us back to
Naples. On the way, we told the last named individual of
our experiences with the mountain guide. He was consider-
ably amused thereby,and laughingly replied : —
" Iliz horse not zo lazy — hiz swerin' an' cuzin' all putz on.
Youknowz hez paid by ze company ;he no want to ascend ze
cone."
This revelation caused a re^^llsion of our feelings. We had
felt quite jolly at being able to leave the fellow in the rear,
and had supposed that he felt very badly at being deprived
of our company. But it turned out that we had been victim-
ized after all, and he had doubtless chuckled over his ruse for
the balance of the day. Had I known his game sooner, I
would never returned till he had gone up to the cruter or
starved on the side of the cone.
Then we told our companion of our experiences with the
assailants whom we had left in a demoralized state. The
serious look which he put on and his reply made us feel better,
for it proved that one genuine victory was inscribed on our
banners. He said : —
" Zey runs for zemselves — zey dangerous fellows."
When we reached our hotel, we could see from the window
a stream of lava appearing to cover the very spot where we
had stood such a short time before.
CHAPTER XLII.
THE BURIED CITY OF POMPEII.
HARK ! — men stand aghast ! face is turned to face, pale as
deatli ! That shock, that rumbling as the mutterings of
distant thunder — what can it mean ? Louder and louder it
grows, peal on peal, the ground trembles and rolls beneath the
feet like the troubled ocean. Angry clouds of smoke from
yonder mountain rise! They spread, they roll their black
garments over the face of heaven ! Through them the livid
lightnings leap up to lick the sky. The hot elements come
showering down. Terror seizes men ! The wretches flee
through the glowing cinders. Not all. Some are upon beds
of sickness unable to flee. Darker grows the day, and more
portentous the volcanic storm. They choke, they struggle
and wail, while they are being shrouded with smoke and
coflined by the hot cinders pressing closer and closer about
their quivering flesh. The prisoners tug and wrench at their
chains as the torrent comes on, but it is stronger than they.
Some, terror-stricken, are overtaken in their flight while still
in the city ; others who escape beyond the wall are suffocated
wnth the smoke, or struck and covered with the falling rock
and cinders. Some thinkino; the day of iuds^ment has come
fall upon their knees, groaning and wailing their prayers
toward the throne of heaven. Some curse the day on which
they were born, and fling out their o.iths defiantly. Children
cry for parents, parents for children, husbands for wives,
friends for friends, but all in vain.
For eight days this volcanic storm continues. By-and-by
387
388
A WAYSIDE INN.
the heavens began to clear, the snn takes off his mourning
veil, but weeps as he k)oks down upon the wide-spread deso-
lation without a landmark to tell where once were verdant
villages and proud cities. The number of persons buried, no
one knows, but it must have been very great, as the effects of
the eruption extended as far as Stabile, some five or six miles
beyond Pompeii, burying all those regions in one universal
tomb of oblivion, until little more than a century ago, when
by chance an unlettered peasant while sinking a well discover-
ed a house far below the surface of the ground.
THK GREAT CATASTROPHE.
It was along the excavated road leading from buried Iler-
culaneum that we approached the renowned Pompeii. We
halted at an inn where the flying inhabitants, laden with
their valuables, had taken refuge from the increasing fall of
cinders. Here they lodged with their riches during the long
and dreary night of centuries. Near by we entered a branch-
road from the Appian Way, and here were summer resorts of
DIOMEDE'S MANSION.
389
renowned persons from the imperial city — Eome. We wan-
dered about Cicero's villa where he used to entertain Augus-
tus. But the most interesting dwelling was Diomedes.'
Down a descending corridor we lollowed the footsteps of
eighteen young men, two children and a wonum, who never
returned. A^ivinst the Avail of the cellar was the form of the
mother, with her two children by her side. There she stood
until her darlings had been buried by the hot ashes which
the wind and the floods of rain alternately carried in, and then
she dropped her head and died. In the museum at Naples
we saw the rinir on the skeleton fine^er of the mother It was
inscribed with the name "Julia A. Diomedes." Hound the
walls of this long circular cellar yet stood the large wine vases
from whicii the servants used to draw.
-'-^-il-':^:/©^
EXCAVATED STREET OK TOMBS.
Approaching the city gate, the road was lined with the
monumental tombs of those who slept in peace during the
awful terror that startled the living. Upon one tomb was a
vessel lowering her sails, emblematical of the close of life.
Here in tiie sacred decline of a summer's evening, friends had
softly trodden, had dropped the silent tear, and had with
flowers strewn the resting-places of those they loved. Pugil-
istic, hard-hearted relatives occasionally wandered out to the
390 NOBODY AT HOME.
tomb of one Scarus, proudly looking at the raving beasts and
gladiators carved upon the monument of him who had won
the prize.
On the city gate was an advertisement of a gladiatorial com-
bat that was to take place in the amphitheatre. Twenty years
previous to the eruption, the beastly Nero became disgust-
ed at a sanguinary fray in this same amphitheatre, and closed
it for ten years, during which an earthquake almost shook the
structure down. It opened for ten years more, and then the
vengeance of Jehovah closed it forever !
We parsed the gate through one of the side entrances,
treading the pavement worn by sandaled feet, silent now.
Two long steps took us over a street-crossing. In the centre
lay a huge stone, astride of which ran the \vheel-marks deeply
guttered. Ladies and gentlemen promenading the streets leap-
ed upon tliis stone to effect a crossing. We imagined ourselves
following them to tlieir homes. The facades were adorned
with paintings and inscriptions suitable to their owner's rank
in society. Presuming to enter, the inscription "Salva, "
welcome, greeted us; so we stepped from the vestibule into
the principal chamber or drawing-room, round which were
arranged the servants' apartments. But as no one stepped out
to receive us, we passed on to the open court surrounded by
a portico supported by columns, where once were sparkling
fountains and fragrant flowers. Wandering through the
various apartments we glided over fish, birds, animals, and
fanciful figures painted with life-like fidelity upon the floor;
while still finer mosaics and fresco paintings covered the stuc-
coed walls. AYe knew the taste of the occupants. In the
rooms of the uncultivated were pictured highly-plumed cocks;
in the home of a patriotic Athenian was the superb representa-
tion of a battle between the Greeks and Persians ; in the studio
of a young amateur were female forms receiving in their
aprons bouquets of flowers ; in the bacchanalian's house were
carved figures in wild revelry ; and in the home of the
poet were scenes from Homer.
INSIDE THE HOUSES. 391
In each house entered we seemed to catch glimpses of its
former inmates. Here were the deserted chairs and tables,
uneaten loav^es, dates, chestnuts and grapes. Hound the festal
board the father, mother, and dear ones had met for the last
time, and for the last time the innocent babe had been dandled
upon the mother's knee. About tbe room and now open to
our view, were objects familiar to every member of the house-
hold, just as they left them forever. AVe glanced at their
tutelary gods, and then followed their footsteps to the temples,
which were about as numerous as the churches in a modern
city of twenty thousand inhabitants. We fancied we saw
them bowing before those beautiful bronze and marble statues,
as do the inhabitants of the neighboring cities of to-day. They
worshiped and gave their means in sincerity and truth, and
then they went on their way rejoicing. The columns were
the models of those in our most beautiful modern temples.
Our guide, with a sacrilegious cane, broke oif the marble
flowers and leaves from the corinthian capitals which the
chisel of some noble artist had carved, and generations of Pora-
peiians admired.
Down a street sufiiciently broad for the easy passage of
carriages, we came into the vast Forum, surrounded by rows of
once beautiful but now broken columns, where beneath the
soft sky those who enjoyed the right of franchise exercised
their respective influences on occasions of public gatherings.
Back of the judge's seat we descended into a dungeon, where
durinor eighteen centuries two forms lav chained.
In the unexcavated half of the city we saw the grimy dig-
gers bringing to light bronze lamps, scales, and various do-
mestic utensils. On a table tliey had laid a petrified bod}',
just exhumed. Our guide said it was supposed that this was
the body of a man who had returned durinsj a lull in the
storm to pillage houses, and instanced another man who was
found in the attitude of a burglar grasping the key and
treasures. Surely if the culprit loved darkness he found
suflicient there.
In another place we entered the room of a sick man. It
24
392
THE DESERTED STRANGER.
seems that he must have been a stranger just arrived from a
distant city, for all had deserted him. Darkness came on,
but he had heard no footsteps upon the floor. Tlie fallen
ashes shut out every raj of light, yet in his feverish visions he
looked for day and called for friends, but none answered.
A. WARNING TO BURGLARS.
After the storm had passed, his wife doubtless came and
looked over the sea of ashes, but her husband was entombed
on his dying couch.
We visited the public bath, with its pipes, double walls,
and great vats for steaming (almost scalding) the bather,
before plunging liim into the great marble basin of cold
water to temper him and quicken his blood. AVe saw the
various fragrant ointments, combs, brushes, and mirrors, and
thought how like a child in a bed of perfume the bather must
have lain down and sweetly slept after the exhaustion of the
bath.
We visited the Comic Theatre, then the Tragic, whose high
walls were never sufficiently buried by the eruption to preserve
them from crumbling on top. In fact the summits of the city
towers were all exposed, and now projected from the plain of
barren ashes, enabling us to trace the three mile circuit of the
wall. These ramparts, in old and warlike times, kept the
prowling enemy from the gates.
THE BRAVE ROMAN SOLDIERS.
393
We glanced down into the labyrinth of streets winding
among low buildings, into
•which the same sun shone
as when up and down them
hurried the clerk going to
his office, or the father re-
turnina: from business to
his pratling ones, or the
laughing girls tripping
along from shop to sho[).
Around us was every evi-
dence that for ages these
happy Ecenes had trans-
pired. When, a minute
later, we ascended to the
dress-circle, the thick steps
of lava were worn almost
away by many generations
of hurrying feet as eager
for amusement as the rest-
less throng of to-day.
Beneath us Avas the orchestra, silent for the>e eighteen
weary centuries. The soft music that enervates the soul had
not yet unnerved the arm of the dauntless Roman soldier.
Between the theatre and the gate leading toward StabifB
were the soldiers' barracks, where the rigid discipline which
had led the Roman warriors to meet death aiid conquer the
world now held them firm to their post, while frightened
wretches were fleeing from the volcanic storm.
While we were wandering and musing amid such scenes
as these, we were suddenly' started from our reverie by the
shrill whistle of a locomotive. At first thought it seemed
almost sacrilege that such a noisy intruder should invade
a place where silence and the repose of sleeping inhabitants
was so long unbroken ; but its presence drove away serious
reflections and reminded us that it was time that passengers
for Kaples were " all aboard."
THE TRAGIC THEATRE.
CHAPTEE XLIII.
FEOM NAPLES TO POME.
WHEN we settled with our Neapolitan host, before
taking the cars for Pome, we were greatly surprised
to find that Caleb's bill was exactly seven times as large as
Wildair's was. How it happened to be so we never found
out.
On our arriving at the depot a boy grabbed our valises,
and ran off with them to an othcial who weighed them and
then made a demand upon us. Wildair pretended that he
did not understand what he wanted, though anybody could
have interpreted the man's gestures when he tiually drew
out his purse and displayed a five franc piece. But Wildair
was bound not to understand, so he reached forth his hand
as if to receive the money M-hich the man held. At this a
young lady with light complexion and hair, spoke to her
brother in English and asked him to offer his services as
interpreter. The result was that we paid over the amount
demanded, but did not begrudge the money, for it was well
worth five francs to again see a golden-haired, blue-eyed,
English-speaking girl. We had almost forgotten there were
any such pretty creatures in the world.
Our tickets admitted us to the first and second-class wait-
ing-room, graced with carpets, cushioned scats, mirrors,
and frescoed walls, A back door was finally unlocked
through which we passed from this palace-prison to the cars.
Before starting, the conductor ran along the platform,
requiring every person to display his ticket or vacate his seat.
394
A COUNTRY STATION.
395
They don't believe in tempting any one to ride to the first
station free.
At one of the country stations Wildair and I alighted to
stretch onr linibs. We were not particular whether we
stood on the track or olf ; but we were soon frightened out
of our wits by a man running toward us, hallooing and
motioning as though he were driving sheep. By his voice
i:*^v^
^i:?^
A SCDPEN STOP.
we took liim for a beggar, but by his gestures an automatic
painter who fancied the sky his canvas; we changed our
mind, however, when he gave us a shove off the track.
At this station an old Italian lady got aboard the car, who
we judged from her actions was having her first experience
at traveling by rail. I was reminded of another lady trav-
eler nearer home whom I had heard about. She had never
seen a railroad, and having made up her mind to take a
*' tour," she was driven several miles to a country station,
39G
AN OLD STORY RETOLD.
and took lier seat on the platform. The train came in and
departed, but she remained seated; and wlien the station-
master asked her why she did not get on the cars if she
wanted to go, she replied: —
" Git on ? — why, I thought the whole eonsarn went."
Acting on the advice of the station-master uhe got safely
on board the next train, and took a seat beside a benevolent
old gentleman. She was very much alarmed when the train
started, but gradually became serene, and interested in what
she saw along the road. The old gentleman answered her
ARCHES OF ANCIENT ROMS.
questions civilly. When he tried to explain the use of the
telegraph wires, her reply was : —
" Wa'al, wa'al, you don't catch me ridin' on 'em, for this
is as fast as I want to go, anyhow."
At length she had seen and heard about so many wonder-
ful things that nothing could astonish her; and when, owing
to a misplaced switch, their train ran into another one,
thereby jolting all the passengers from their seats, she
quietly remarked : —
" They fetch up rather sudden, don't they?"
At her journey's end she was surrounded by a crowd of
hackmeu, all clamoring for her patronage. Grasping her
FIRST VIEW OF ROME.
397
umbrella in one hand and her band-box in the other, she
gazed into the face of the loudest driver, with the compas-
sionate enquiry : —
" Are you in pain?"
Along the road we saw Italian peasants plougliing their
impoverished grounds with sleepy, faded cattle of a dwarfed
breed, yoked singly to a forked stick which they forced
into the ground with one foot, while they hobbled beside the
handle on the other. The ploughmen's wives or daughters,
armed with goads, acted as drivers and occasionally woke
up the oxen.
HACICMEN ABROAD.
Toward evening, just as the tints of an Italian sunset were
painted on the sky, the dreamy arches of ancient Rome
burst suddenly upon our view like a vision. For miles these
arches stretched away, bridging the sky like closely-set piers
spanning a river, though some of them had crumbled. Over
those arches once flowed a stream of living water to the
thirsty myriads who thronged the city in the days of her
glory.
Finally, rolling through a real wall, the brakes brought the
cars to a halt, and we awoke from our reverie. Passing
through the depot, we glanced at the long row of vehicles,
398
ASTOUNDED FOREIGNERS.
and approached one with "Hotel deAmeriqne" in gilded
letters over the door. The genteel attendant tipped his silk
hat and bowed, as we asked if English was spoken at this
hotel ; and as he responded an English affirmative, we stepped
into the carnage. Meantime not another person had offered
his services to us or left his own carriage. It was a pleasing
contrast to the way our hackmen at home treat foreigners
as well as other people. I once saw a party of Italians
astounded at the liberties taken with them by hotel runners
on their arrival at New York. They did not understand our
i
HACKMEN XT HOME.
language any too well, and were speechless under the clamors
of their assailants who seemed, as they looked at it, to be
trying to pull them to pieces and steal their baggage. " Can
this," they thought, " be the land of liberty of which we
have heard so much ! "
On the morning of our first day in Rome we chartered a
carriage and told the driver, in not very intelligent Italian,
to take us round where anything was to be seen. He did
not seem to understand us exactly, and gazed back at us;
but we motioned to him to go ahead, and he did so. Wo
rolled up streets and down streets, — along fine streets and
streets which w'ere not so very fine ; past open paved squares
SIGHT-SEEING IN ROME.
399
■with playing fountains, where Bnorting horses with fish-like
tails were rising from the water, and the sea chariots were
driven by niytiiological beings, half men and half fish.
Then we passed squares in which stood Egyptian obelisks,
broken columns, churches, museums, and various other inter-
esting objects too numerous to mention.
Our driver halted at times to enable us to alif^ht and
A DRIVE THROUGH RO.ME.
inspect things more closely than we could in the carnage,
and we finally gathered courage to enter the vestibule of one
of the beautiful churches we came to. Just as we got there
some priests passed near us, and we expected tiiat they would
attempt to kidnap us or order us out; but as they did neither
and looked benevolently at us, we grew bolder and went
inside where priests were ministering at the altar. After-
wards we visited other churches, and gazed on the beautiful
paintings and statues everywhere displayed within them.
400
A LESSOX IN POLITENESS.
Then we fonnd ourselves venturirig into buildings that
were not churches. We went up long flights of marble steps,
along winding corridors, and into rooms, which, from the
statues, paintings, and other beautiful objects, we took to be
galleries of art. At last, wearied out with our long morning
ramble, we returned to our hotel, paid our driver, and received
from him another lesson in Italian politeness.
w
CHAPTER XLIY.
AMID THE PvUINS OF ROME.
E now began to realize that at last we were amid the
ruins of the " Eternal City " in which lived that s^alaxy
of o-reat men who shine in history as the stars in heaven, in-
tiuencino- even now the destiny of those modern nations which
were formed from the w^reck of Rome.
From the pavement of the present city we descended by a
ladder of nineteen steps to the Forum, M'here the voices of
Roman orators had so often resounded. The pavement was
crossed by a foot-path partially worn by Caesar, Cicero,
Pompey, Antony, and a host of others whose daring deeda
have been the admiration of succeeding ages.
It was here that Brutus ran from the Senate door holding
above his head the bloody dagger, and crying, "Liberty!
liberty! Ctesar is dead and Rome is free !" Through those
triumphal arches, I fancied 1 could see the citizens rushing,
and the au<rust members of the Senate runnino: out into the
street, wliile the so-called "Liberator" gloried in having
given — as he weakly imagined — freedom to his country by
means of an atrocious crime.
Here, when quiet prevailed, Antony ascended the rostrum to
praise the deeds of Brutus, and to defame Caesar. But when
the orator enujnerated the fallen hero's generous acts and
opened his will, which unexpectedly devoted his noble gardens
to the use of the public, and bequeathed a sum of money to
each citizen, and then lifted to their view the familiar robe
of the murdered conqueror, stained with blood and rent with
401
402
SCENES OF DEPARTED GLORY.
stabs: then it was that his achievements fortheglorjofHome
rushed upon the memories of the audience, and tliose who
had torn the diadem from the brow of the warrior's statue,
with a curse to tiie hand that had placed it there at night,
now wept ; and those who had remained silent until the con-
queror had twice rejected
:§ the imperial insignia, and
then joined with the throng
to cheer, now breathed ven-
^^J^^ geance upon the fleeing con-
spirators who had murdered
him.
We saw the excavated
fragments of statues and
ccilunms that once stood in
beauty before temples and
public buildings facing the
Forum. During the last
three centuries the antique
has become almost as
sacred as once it was pro-
fane, and now the temples
not entirely wrecked are
carefully patched over and
converted into Christian
churches, and then become doubly sacred. Even the prison
behind the tiibune of the Forum, where St. Paul was cruelly
fettered, and confined, is now the crypt of a church, from whose
altar daily ascends the prayers and chants of priests.
Our guide conducted us to what he calle ! * Trajan's Foinim ;"
it looked a good deal like a cellar. There were in it four rows
of upright marble columns broken off at various heights ; and
in their midst one mighty towering column, around which,
like a vine clinging to a tree, wound the sculptured represen-
tation of the long procession of Trajan. Long and fierce was
the struggle there depicted, for we saw the soldiers not only
in combat, but also wintering in stone barracks. When the
THE ROMAN FORUM.
ROME'S LAST CONQUEST.
403
spiral procession had wound its way toward the top of the
column, tliose who had not been slain by the northern barba-
rians were seen returninij homeward with their trophies. But
mothers came not out to welcome them, and many a lovely
damsel had either pined away or found another lover during
the fifteen years of their absence.
TIIK F.iOOtSSlU.N Of TUAJAiN.
This was Rome's last conquest in Europe. But by-and-by
the warlike hordes then conquered came down from the
north and ascended that column also — but by tlie internal
spiral stairway. They removed the statue of Trajan for
coinage ; and the pope, three centuries ago placed a bronze
statue of St. Peter in its place.
Tired and weary we sat down to rest on the summit of the
Coliseum, which was transfigured into a free quarry by the
Roman people during the dark ages. In fancy, eighteen
centuries rolled back the current of human events, and I
seemed to see the long train of Titus returning across the
campagna from the siege of Jerusalem. Over the way he
erected a grand arch, upon which he caused to be carved the
404
THE COLISEUM.
golden candlestick with its seven branches, the ark of the
covenant, and the table of sliew-bread, forever removed from
the temple of the Lord. Immediately afterward the earth
began to quake, the air turned black, and from the mouth of
Vesuvius belched forth cinders and rolling fire which buried
a number of Roman cities.
Ere the veil of heaven had been drawn aside, the topmost
stones of the Coliseum had been tugged to their places, and
the building was now to be dedicated. At an early hour
the seats of the amphitheatre were filled. On the circling
platform surrounding the arena was enthroned the emperor,
with the senators, priests, and the vestal virgins. From
receding seats above them, looked down the rich patricians;
still higher the soldiers ; and upon these vast upper rows,
about one-third of a mile in circumference, sat the plebians.
But hush! — the.murmuring of the vast crowd ceases, and
a deathlike silence prevails. In the arena stands a graceful
female form ; she is a Christian, but as helpless as innocent.
Then from a passage in the wall a ferocious beast appears,
and all eit in breathless suspense at sight of the shuddering
and shrinking girl crouching before them without one hope
of escape. A thrill runs through the audience as the tiger
springs upon her and bears her to the ground.
Then, one after another, other victims are brought up from
the prisons below to suffer the same fate ; and when a man
is chased by a wild boar across the arena, and at last falls
a victim to the beast's deadly tusks, the noise of the clap-
ping of hands arises like the wings of a myriad birds.
Now two champions appear alone in the arena, eager for
death or glory, and those who have no previous prejudice
ghrink or shout according as the one they favor is favored
also by fortune. Of Uiose who liave nothing at stake most
seem to sympathize with the smaller warrior, perhaps
because helms alread}' received a couple of wounds; and
when with a skillful sweep of his sword he cleaves off his
opponent's head, one hundred thousand infuriated people
arise, and wave their hands and cheer.
I
THE ARCH OF TITUS. 405
Over such ecenes as these, spectators gloated, till one
hundred dreadful days expired, during which many thous-
and men and between five and ten thousand beasts, perished
for the amusement of the Homan populace.
Here, along the miles of winding corridors leading to
these horrible scenes, then stood graceful statues, the defaced
fragments of which are now collected and valued at their
weight in gold. Men learned in art and history almost
worship the Coliseum, in whose structure are harmonized the
various kinds of architecture, from the massive doric sup-
ports of the arched windows at the base, to the airy Corin-
thian column beneath the lofty entablature at the summit.
In the crumbling arches of its corridors are now fourteen
Christian churches, and in the centre of the arena stands
the cross.
From the Coliseum we went to the baths of Titus, where
he employed his slaves to fill up the wonderful Golden Palace
of Nero with rubbish. This palace was so vast that Titus
never hoped to equal it, so he thought to bury it. But the
structure lie reared above it crumbled away into a protecting
cover.
From the fallen arch of Titus we descended by a ladder
into the excavated rooms of Nero, in which were found manv
of the statues and works of art which this tyrant, who burned
the city for his pleasure and lit tarred Christians for street
lamps, used to enjoy. Our guide carried a bamboo pole
about thirty feet long, fastened to the end of which was a
lamp, which revealed the frescoed figures on the plastering as
bright as if painted but yesterday.
From these lofty ceilings, high arched doors, and long halls
we returned to our carriage and drove down into the lower
part of the city, past ruins, and along lanes separated from
vineyards by very high stone fences, built probably from the
ruins of fallen palaces once standing near by.
"VVe halted again before the arched and towering ruins of
Caracalla's Baths, covering perhaps forty acres of land, and
appearing like huge devastated mountains. Excavators were
406
THE ANCIENT ETRUSCANS.
carting away the debris and bringing to light fragments of
statues to crowd the Vatican and the museums of Rome.
They came upon the mosaic floor Morked into beautiful and
brilliant designs, with here and there depressions for swim-
ming-basins. Here, and to other baths, the enervated wealthy
Romans of the third century came to bathe and enjoy them-
selves after the excitement and crimes of the Coliseum,
while the poor groaned beneath the tyranny of the rich.
AYe visited, a day's drive from Rome, the tombs where the
ashes of the aboriginal Etruscans were deposited in urns or
vases covered with yjictures. We descended into a lately
opened vault, on the walls of which were delineated a breed
of horses having green tails, blue manes, yellow bodies and
pipe stem legs without joints. In another, evidently made
at a later period when art had almost reached Grecian per-
UUSIC AND DANCING.
fection, flesh-colored figures with gracefully flowing robes
were performing a lively dance to the music of the lyre and
flute, which they themselves were playing as an expression
of joy over the departure of a deceased friend to abetter
clime. Some of the ancient characters resembling Greek
letters were interpreted to us by our guide as follows : —
" While we departed to nought our essence ascends." " We
ascend to our ancestors." " Raise the soul as fire." Upon
the walls of others were winired anirels with beautiful faces.
But perhaps the scene that interested us most was one rep-
resenting the death of a father. The daughter was drawing
RUINS OF THE CAEACALLA BATHcj, KOME.
A DAUGHTER'S LOVE.
409
the hood over his eyes, wliich had just closed in death; a
dutiful son was covering his feet with one hand, while the
otlier M'as raised to hide his grief. At the head stood .mother
youth in subdued sorrow, pressing his aching head and breast ;
while a ])rofessioiial mourner, having rent his garment, was
smiting his breast and brow, accompanied with lamentations
of woe suitable to the family grief. Although that daughter's
A SCENE or WOE.
tender care ceased thousands of years ago yet her love
was immortal, and it awoke in us feelings of sympathy and
sorrow for her grief as if there were no separating chasm
of time between us.
This home of the departed father 'had been fitted up by
surviving friends in such a manner that his spirit might smile
upon their kindness and meet them there. About the room
were arranged his arms, memorial wine vases, sacrificial uten-
sils, a couch, mirrors, candelabrum, jewelry, and other fa-
miliar objects. Here the living came to muse of the dead,
expecting that as they did so his presence might be revealed
to them.
Like the Egyptians, these ancients died to be remembered.
But the dust of a hundred generations of plodding peasants
enriched the soul above tlieir peaceful resting-places, and it
is but recently that they have been disturbed.
25
CHAPTER XLY.
THE SPIRIT OF THE ETERNAL CITT.
CLEMENT'S name, says St. Paul, is written in the " Book
of Life." It seems that lie distinguished himself as a
preacher in Rome, and the oldest church of this venerable
city bears his name. Of course we visited it.
We descended beneath the foundation, into a subterranean
chapel, the walls of which once echoed the words of Jesus
almost fresh from His lips; it still contains many early
Christian pictures. Tradition says that St. Clement's church
was built on the site of his house, and that when the foun-
dations were excavated to a certain depth the workmen were
astonished to find themselves in a church below the surface;
while a passage connected with the church led to a dwelling
of the Augustan Age — perhaps the parsonage of brother
Clement.
The prison in which St. Paul was confined is near the Fomm,
and was pointed out to us. Then we drove toward the Three
Taverns, along the anciently-paved Appian Way, still lined
with the crumbling monumfcnts of Rome's renowned dead.
One, containing a great stone coflin, was like the Coliseum in
shape, and, like it, served as a fort during the dark ages.
Four francs of depreciated Italian currency opened for us
a gate in the high stone wall on our riglit, and we stood in a
large vineyard hanging with clusters of grapes as plentiful
as in the Promised Land. With torch in hand we then
descended to the city whose inhabitants ever rest — unless up
and down those narrow streets their spirits wander. We
410
THE UNDERGROUND CITY.
411
glanced at the rows of narrow niclies, one above another, in
the rocky walls on cither side. On the tablets scaling them
were recorded, in Latin or Greek, how "Adonis would ever
weep for his own loved Helen ;" or the name and age of a
"Rosebud, plucked from a mother's bosom and a father's
heart." We found that many of these vaults had been ruth-
lessly unsealed, and the tablets removed to Euroj)ean muse-
ums; the bones strewn about looked ghastly enough in the
flickering light.
Beneath these almost endless corridors we descended to
streets intersecting each other ; and below these to an under-
lying labyrinth, where we shuddered as we went along lest
"WK SHUDUKRKl) AS WE WtM ALONCi.
we should loose sight of the grim keeper in whose hands was
our return from the walks of death to the light of day.
Here we came upon chapels wliere tiie early Christians
songlit a quiet retreat from their relentless persecutors ; a
sanctuary hidden from the sight of thQ world in which they
412 RETKEATS OF THE EARLY CURISTIAXS.
mi'Tht worship their once suffering but now glorified Saviour.
Here they committed to the tombs the remains of their loved
ones, that they might rest until the glory of the awakening
morn should raise them from the slumber of death, even as
their Lord himself was raised. Upon their tombs were
expressed the sentiments of hope and faith.
These retreats, as well as the other catacombs, and the
perforated hills of Rome which served as vast quarries out of
which her structures were reared, became after her fall, a
Bubterranean city and the abode of robbers, against whom an
army was finally sent to clear them out and block the passages
with stone. Recent researches have removed these obstruc-
tions. Here, in these complicated retreats of the Christians,
were found the bronze lamps which they used in their
chapels, and on the walls were pictures of Christ the Good
Shepherd, and other representations which, though simple,
evinced the fervent holiness and spirituality of those who
delineated them.
We went to St. Peter's, — the grandest and richest place on
earth in which mortals pay homage to heaven. In it are
deposited tlie ashes of St. Peter and St. Paul, and on its
cloud-piercing dome is the cross for which tliey died. The
steps, on wiiich thousands of people can stand, lead to the
portico whose columns rear their lieads aloft one liundred
feet. Above these steps stood the Pope of Rome just after
he had been pronounced infallible, and there lie raised his
hands in blessing over the heads of myriads standing in
awe beneath.
This vast cathedral, six hundred feet long, though without
seats, did not seem empty. Art, beauty, grandeur, filled the
place. The deeply-sunken cofiiers, one hundred and fifty
feet above our heads, seemed intended to hide their treasures
of glittering wealth. The columns dividing the aisles and
the principal nave were ench as large as the solitary obelisks
of Egypt, or Pompey's Pillar, but their capitals bloomed
into leaves and flowers that softened their vastness into
beauty. The principle dome, supported upon four orna-
ST. PETER'S. 413
mcntcd pillars, each sixtj-nine feet in diameter, wfis the size
and shape of the Pantheon at Rome which Pliny reckoned
among: the wonders of the world. The " Transtiii^uratii'n of
Christ," the "Creation of the AVorld," the "Last Judg-
ment," and the renowned paintings of the great masters,
were copied in immortal mosaics npon the walls. Fifteen
years were required to thus execute a single picture; fifteen
thousand shades of colored glass were "used, and lif teen thous-
and pieces of the same were set up in the space covered by one's
hand. The surface was then polished, and the unfading
figures of angels, sibyls, and prophets, looked down upon us
" like beings to whom God had spoken, and who have never
since ceased to meditate on the awful voice." The anirels
with snowy wings seemed to be descending from sublime
heights, with trumpets to their mouths, while up the ainles
rolled the thunder tones of the organ dying away in plaintive
echoes.
Amid these towering columns, and beneath these lofty
sublime arches, a thousand voices sound like a single harmony,
melodious and grandly sweet. Here the people M'alk and
worship. They lean against the column which it is said the
dear Saviour rested against when M-eary ; they cross them-
selves before tlie cross; they kiss the toe of St. Peter's
statue in humility, and their children do the same. They
bow at the tomb of a saint, and ask him to beseech the Queen
of Heaven to influence her son Jesus to implore his Omnipo-
tent Father to forgive their sins. They kneel before the
pope or archbishop as he enters, with the bishops supporting
his glittering robes. Priests reverently bear the trail of the
bishops, and monks and little boys gracefully sustain chc
long appendages of the priests. The ]>ope, when we were
there, had shut himself up as prisoner within the Vatican,
bewailing the breached gates and the capitulation of Home —
the last relic of his once world-wide empire. So an arch-
bishop officiated in his place at one of the side chnpels,
instead of being seated upon the identical chair of St. Peter,
which is for the use of the pope alone.
414:
ST. PETER'S.
The officiating bishop repeated in a high tone one verse ;
the multitude of monks and priests responded another in a
Bweet spiritual voice ; and the choir answered by chanting a
^T'
"TQET kiss tub toe of ST. PETER 3 STATUE.
third, accompanied by the organ. When the singers bowed
their heads or crossed themselves, tiie bystanders did the
same, for they knew something sacred was being repeated,
thoush in an unknown tonjjue. As the leader at the altar
read, the other bishops supported his arms and his long
jeweled robe in a becoming manner. They waited upon liim
iis if he had come from heaven, because he bore the vessels
of the Lord. They brought him a vessel, into which he
dipped a fan -like leaf and sprinkled the two attending bish-
ops ; these then sprinkled the priests who supported their
robes; and these, again, repeated the operation upon the
various grades of priests and monks.
The leader waved before the altar, in complicated curves,
the censer, from whose every crevice the smoking incense
TUE MONKS.
415
issued. Then the consecrated smoke from the silver censer
like the fluid from the leaf, was shaken upon the heads of
the bishops, and by them and their attendants passed on
until it reached the remotest monks. Again, a consecrated
touch was started from the leader to his immediate attend-
ants, and by them to those next in rank, and so on from
order to order till the farthest row of short gowns was
reached. Then they formed in line according to their rank
and varied uniform, and marched as the army of the Lord
round the superb tomb of St. Peter, beneath the dome,
armed M-itli burning candles almost as long as spears, emble-
matical of their mission of light.
The monks of Rome cannot help being religious, for when
they are not sleeping the}' are either saying the best prayers
the pope can write, or chanting portions of the Bible, or
walking over sacred ground on their knees and bare feet.
Luther was once a monk, and the first thing he did when he
came to Home was to ascend the Scala Sancta. Like Luther,
when I saw the people climbing those steps which, it is said,
TUE SACKED STEPS.
our Saviour bathed with his blood, I felt inclined to ascend
on my knees and press my lips to every stone.
How eagerly weary pilgrims climb those steps that once
led to Pilate's judgment seat, and kiss them over and over,
416 THE POPE'S PALACE.
and look down through the cracks in the wooden frame
covering the marble just beneath, which, if uncovered, their
very lips long ago would have worn away. I no longer
wondered at the power that Rome sways over her people ;
but unlike Luther I should have continued to venerate these
stones.
We went to the palace of the pope, the great preserver and
patron of art, where live thousand rooms are stored with the
priceless relics ofditferent ages. We climbed grand stairways,
we strolled down long galleries whose mosaic floors vied with
the ceilings, in pictures both modern and antique; we gazed
with astonishment at what the skill and refined taste of man
could effect.
"We shuddered as we passed the Laocoon. It is a group
consisting of a father and his two sons entangled in the tio-ht-
eniiig coils of two great serpents that were using their hooked
fangs, producing excruciating pain ! Perhaps never marble
spoke such agony ! And all that the father had done was to
protest against bringing the Wooden Horse within the walls
of Troy, proclaiming that it had not come down from
heaven from Minerva but was placed there by the enemy •
and so M'hen they persistently brought it through the gate he
hurled a javelin into its immense side. And he was correct'
for that very night Ulysses and a company of Greeks issued
from a trap-door in the flank of the horse, stepped out, opened
the gates, and the Greeks rushing in fired the city, while the
inhabitants, sleepy from the excitement of the previous day,
at last awoke in terror.
But this poor father had gone to his long home and wit-
nessed not the dreadful scene. After having given that
faithful warning he returned to his temple to sacrifice to
Apollo. But offended Minerva sent two monstrous serpents,
which tarrying not, entered the sacred precincts as the priest
stood by the altar. It happened that his two sons stood near,
and upon these the vengeance fell. The father rushed to
their rescue only to entangle himself. There he stands, while
his sons look to him in terror and confidence for deliverance,
ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS. 417
and the strong muscles of the father's arms seem ready to
remove the necks of the Nvrithing snakes. I always sympa-
thized with this priest and thought that he died a martyr.
The Grecian artist who embodied this conception of his brain
in marble, little thought that for so many centuries it would
be buried beneath the rubbish of Rome to be again laid
bare for the admiration of the world.
The popes have always been benefactors to learning by
preserving tens of thousands of ancient manuscripts. Al-
though most of the oldest ones have no dates, yet linguists, by
carefully comparing them with others and witli one another,
can determine the time when they were written ; for letters,
punctuation, spelling, and language have been constantly
undergoing change. Besides this, one author often quoted
from another, which enables us to say which was antecedent.
Few manuscripts in existence go back farther than the third
century, for printing was not then invented, and the mucli used
volumes soon wore out and their places were supplied by
copies.
CHAPTER XLVI.
FLORENCE AND VENICE.
SEATED comfortably in the railroad-carriage we left
Rome beliirid us. and began the first stage of our journey
towards Florence. The dome of St. Peter's rose into A-iew,
grander and grander, for some time, and then became more
and more shadowy, until it was entirely lost to siglit. Then
we began to regret that we had not made a longer stay in
the Eternal City.
We passed near Lake Bolsena, with its low wooded shores.
Here stood the ancient Etrn?can cities, the remains of which
are only to be found in a few granite pillars, not far from
the deserted shores.
It was quite dark when we arrived in Florence, and we
lost no time in seeking for a suitable hotel, but were some-
what disajipointed, for we were directed to a very rough sort
of place, where we passed an uncomfortal)le night. As soon
as day broke, I left Wildair sleeping serenely, and made my
way out into the streets to obtain a first view of the city
called '' The Beautiful."
The city was already astir, and some of its streets were
thronged by early-rising shop-keepers, workmen, and people
going to and from market. I followed their trail, and was
led towards a beautiful stone bridge. Looking up and down,
I saw other bridges supported on long arches spanning the
same stream, whose waters gleamed below.
After crossing the bridge, I judged I was in a market-
place, for the street was well lined with people selling
418
BEAUTIFUL FLORENCE. 419
vegetables, fruits, and various kinds of produce. A little
furtlier on 1 met other people of both sexes, and of every
age, coming into market with their donkeys, ponies, and carts.
Still further on I came to an arched gateway, in front of
"which was a soldier standing on guard, Althongh I had
some suspicions that he might turn me back, he took no
notice of me and I went on unmolested. Then turning to
the left, I passed along a lane or path, with scattered build-
ings on my right, and a high, old stone wall with a broad
green-turfed ditch running beside it ou my left hand. After
going a mile or more down this lane, I came to another
gateway guarded by a soldier, and again my fears rose; bat
he also sli<riited me.
My path now led methrougli a vast garden, and for nearly
a mile 1 walked on admiring its beautiful walks, statues, and
fountains. Then I saw in the distance a bridge which
looked familiar, and started for it. On coming up to it I
recognized it as tlie one I had previously crossed over.
Hastening on, I was soon by the bedside where I had left
Wildair sleeping. He was just waking up, and had no idea
that I had been away from the room.
I afterward learned that the great garden I had explored
was called Boboli Garden, and that it was one of the finest
in all Italy.
Florence is full of rich, costly churches, with a very
large number of priests and monks in attendance. I do not
know which are the most numer(»us, — priests or beggars.
One could not help noticing " The Duomo," for its cupola
is very conspicuous. This church was begun about the time
of the crusades, and is not yet linished. The square bell-
tower, rising from the pavement near the church to the
heiirht of two hundred and seventy-six feet, was to have
been surmounted by a pyramid ninety-two feet additional.
Like the church, the tower is built of parti-colored marble
arranged mosaieally accoi'ding to the taste of the middle
ages, and it is so beautiful that Charles the Fifth used to say
that it ought to be kept under a glass case.
420 IN THE MUSEUM.
The strangest structure in Florence is the Palazzo Vecchio.
One is puzzled to know whether it looks more like the palace
of a king, or an old fortress. It is beautiful, though odd in
the extreme. From one side of it rises a beautiful square
tower, to the height of more than three hundred feet. This
building has no facade or portico to relieve its grandeur; it
is a type of many similar palaces built during the middle
ages, when defence was the only security, and every city was
surrounded by a wall.
We found our way into the museum. Here we walked
for two or three hours, until quite tired, and then we were
satisfied to see no more. The hall we happened to be in was
hung with cartoons and tapestry of the old masters, and
seemed to be endless. So we looked out of the window to see
if we could jump out, and M'ere surprised to find that vre
were above the river. We might have jumped out into the
•water, but thought best not to do so. When at length we
got out of the building, we found ourselves on the other side
of the river from what we were when we entered it. We
crossed back on a bridge, and found that the long gallery we
had been in ran along side of it ; as if this were not enough for
one bridge, jewelry shops lined either side of the way.
The museum at Florence is considered superior to that at
Naples. It contains the noted statue of Yenus de Medici
whose form stands unveiled before you, so graceful in attitude
so beautiful in outline, so perfect in proportion, tliat one can
hardly believe it to have been the M'ork of man. On the plinth
or foot-piece, is cut the name and country of the noted sculp-
tor, Cleomenes the Athenian, who died B. C. 150. Although
when found, during the seventeenth century, it was broken
into a dozen fraf):ments amonix the ruins of Hadrian's Yilla, a
few miles out of Rome, it was restored so nicely that one
would hardly notice the fractures, or xiiscover that the right
arm and a part of the left arm are modern. It was carried
to Paris by Napoleon in 1796, but returned after his over-
throw.
When riding an hour in the cars in Italy one often passes
THE CITY OF THE SEA. 421
tliroiich ten times the number of tunnels that he does from
New York to San Francisco. In Italy they run tlirou<jjh the
mountains: in America tiiey wind about until they find their
way over them. But the costly way is the cheapest in the
long run, as it gives a near route and a level track.
But when on our way from Florence to Venice it was not
very ])leasant to ride through smoky tunnels by candleli^^ht,
or to pop into a mountain every time one became interested
in a beautiful valley. Before evening however, we passed
over a level exp;inse where not even a hill, however distant,
met the eye, and the world seemed an Eden divided into
garden spots by fences of tall, straight, slender trees. Some-
times, when jroini; fast, the sunliii-lit — afterwards the moon-
/ too? to
light — seemed like one glimmering sheen of light and green.
Night came on, and hour after hour went b}', but no
Venice appeared. Finally, however, after we had passed
over three or four miles of water, our train rolled into the
city and stopped at the depot. "We alighted and walked
through the building, but found no carriages waiting for
passengers. In their stead were long dusky gondolas, in
one of which we seated ourselves, and were soon gliding
awny over the water.
The streets were so narrow at first that there was just room
between the lofty frowning walls on each side of us for the
gondoliers to paddle, which they did in a standing posture,
with their faces in the direction we were going. Just before
turning a corner they shouted loudly to let others know of
their proximity. Finally we came out into the principal
street which was of good width. A mile along this street
brought us to the marble steps of our hotel.
AVhen Tiome was in her splendor, where we now rested
this evening amid marble palaces, M-as the wild ocean's home.
During the fifth century, the bal-barians from the far north
invaded and overrun all Italy, and buried the weak enervated
Komans beneath the ruins of their former grandeur. Kelu-
gecs from various ruined cities here found a safe retreat
among the lagoons and little islands about the head of the
422 THE RISE AND DECLINE OF VENICE.
sea. The storms which shattered the mighty empire pro-
duced not a ripple upon the peaceful water in which these
ishmds slept.
Venice soon rose from the sea, like a magic city, and
became not only the mistress of the waters, but also extended
her influence far back upon the land. The distant islands of
the sea dwelt beneath her protection; remote lands trembled
at her arms; her ships helped to bear the armies of the
Crusades; the oncoming hosts of Mohammedanism, threat-
ening to flood Europe and destroy Christianity, received
many a repulse at her hands ; while far and wide her influence
was felt. Her merchants were princes, her houses palaces,
and here declining art and refinement found a home beyond
the reach of barbarism.
Here, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, was
issued the first newspaper that was ever published. Here
WHVS established the first bank of deposit and discount; and
here appeared the first bill of exchange. Here, upon her
forts, appear to have been used the first cannon which history
speaks of.
During a great part of the thirteenth and fourteenth cen-
turies, Venice was at war with her rival republic Genoa; but
it was left for Columbus to inflict a more lastin<r blow on
the prosperity of his country's foe than had been previously
given. The discovery of America turned the attention of
the world toward the vast wealth of the New World, and by
exciting the spirit of adventure, led to the discovery, five
years later, of a new route to India round the Cape of Good
Hope. No wonder these changes shifted commerce into new
channels. The decline of Venice was hastened bv lone: and
unsuccessful wars with Turkey. At the close of these wars
in the year 1718, her spirit was broken and her aristocracy
reduced to poverty. But now under the rule of Victor
Emmanuel her spirit is beginning to revive.
Venice still retains all the public buildinfrs, cliurches,
palaces, and art collections she had in the day of her greatest
prosperity, her stately structures of stone and marble remain
CROSSING THE GRAND CANAL. 423
anchored in the sea, though the vicissitudes of fortune have
driven away her ships. Her raih'oad lines — one of which
offers the shortest and quickest route across the continent
by Avay of the Mount Cenis Tunnel — seem likely to bring
back her scattered fleet.
Wishing to see Venice for ourselves, "we dispensed with
both guide and gondola and started out afoot and alone.
The front door opened over a canal, so we went out by the back
one into a very narrow passage or street, nicely paved with
flag-stones. As the door we had just closed was its terminus,
there was but one way for us to go. Soon, however, similar
narrow streets from other doors joined ours, and Ave soon
came into a broader street, flfteen feet wide and crowded with
people. Into this thoroughfare we turned. On either side
were shops with open fronts, under which were tables and
baskets of fruits within reach of our hands as we passed along.
Then wo came to stores filled with hats, boots, and everything
else that one could want in the way of clothing. Beyond
these an arched foot-bridge spanned the narrow canal, run-
ning between perpendicular walls. This was but one of
between four and live hundred bridges which span the twelve
dozen and one streets along which the blue waters ebb and flow.
By-and-by we came to where the throng of people was very
dense. AVe did not then know that we were in one of the
nooks of the Grand Canal, which winda through the city like
a pot-hook, crossed by only one or two bridges, and we made
several attempts to proceed, but eac/i street that we followed
either ended at some door or before some un bridged canal,
and we were obliged to retrace our steps. Finall}' we learned
the secret which was simply to follow ihe street most crowd-
ed. In this way only can the Grand Canal be crossed. If
a stranger is unable to decide which is the most popular
thoroughfare he is liable to be led astray, but there is not
much danger of getting beyond the limits of the city.
After about three hours wandering through Yenice — where
many of the children have never seen a foot of natural un-
paved ground, and the earth to them is as mysterious as the
424 THE PIAZZA AND ST. MARK'S CATHEDRAL.
ocean was to iis in our childhood — we returned along the
principal street past the narrow way leading to our hotel; and
were soon in a richer part of the city where the stores were
full of rich and costly articles.
On passing under an arch we were on the Piazza, in front of
a building which we almost immediately recognized as the
renowned St. Mark's Cathedral. The buildings surrounding
it appeared different from any we had seen before, and we
have seen nothing like them since.
Proceeding along the Fiizza we came to the bell-tower
standing in front of the Cathedral, and mounted to its summit
by an interior spiral way without stairs. Napoleon once rode
np the same spiral way on horseback, but it did not seem to us
to be a very remarkable feat.
From the summit of the tower we obtained a ffood view of
the city and distant islands. There was only one passage
between them wide enough for ships to come in. This gate-
way was once entered by the fleet of Genoa, after it had van-
quished the Venetian fleet; but it did not get out again so
easily, for it was forced to surrender almost in the streets of
Venice.
"No track of men, no footsteps to and fro
Lead to her gates. The path lies o'er the sea,
Invisible."
"While we were on the tower, the chimes of the larere bells
just above our heads startled us. Looking out over the city
we saw the pigeons coming from every direction. Then a
man came out to feed these guardians of Venice — for so
they are regarded — while they lighted around him in the
piazza. Remembering that injuring them was punished as
a crime, we did not wonder that they M-ere very tame.
From the bell-tower we walked down the Piazza to where it
opened over the sea, and had a beautiful view of a distant
point of Venice. On one of the two granite columns over-
looking the water stood a winged lion, the emblem of St.
Mark, the patron saint of Venice. The building on our right
SOUVENIRS OF DREADFUL TIMES. 425
was the Old Library, 'with its beautiful columns and arches ;
while overtopping all were
" The statues ranged along an azure sky."
On our left was the Doge's Palace, with " galleries so light
that they might have been the work of fairy hands, so strong,
that centuries had battered them in vain."
After procuring a guide we passed through to the rear of
the Doge's Palace, and stood high over a watery street, in a
dark tunnel, with the beautiful palace which we had been
admiring on one side, and the darkest of prisons on the other.
We were
— " on the Bridge of Sighs,
A prison and a palace on each hand."
On our way to the bridge we passed up the Giant Stairway,
in one wall of which we were shown two niches in which,
before the French knocked them off, used to open the two
dreadful Lions' Mouths, down whose throat, on dark nights,
anonymous accusations against citizens were dropped into the
letter box of the fearfid " Three." In those dreadful days
when men had lost confidence in men, no one knew when he
was safe. AVhile one was innocently sleeping, unconscious
of danger, some one might be planning his death, some one
might be dropping his name into the Lion's Mouth, thus charg-
ing him with being secretly a traitor and a plotter against
the government.
We passed through tlie Great Council Hall — one of the
finest rooms in Europe. The senators who assembled here num-
bered several hundred. The history of Venice might be read
on the vast walls, in pictures of carnage and blood. Every
victory, every great triumph of her arms was depicted here.
Kound the wall, in long rows, looked down the venerable old
doges who had been elected to their ofiice from the body of
senators. A black blur covered the place of one doge's
portrait, and upon the stain was written, " Beheaded fur
Crimes."
Further on was the hall of the Council of Ten, who were
20
426 THE GREAT COUNCIL HALL.
chosen from the larger body, for the masses had lost all
voice in the government. The senators were from the class
of wealthy merchants who were called lords or patricians.
When the people began to struggle for their former liberty
it only caused more strenuous measures on the part of the
government, and the consolidation of power in the hands of
the Ten, But the reins were not even then tight enough and
the Ten chose the fearful Three, into whose council-room
we next went.
In the Great Council Hall was a vast picture of paradise ;
another representing the Emperor of Germany kissing the
ground beneath the feet of the pope; in still another we saw
the pope presenting a sword to the doge. But the only paint-
ing in the room of the Three was a vivid portrayal of the
infernal regions.
We now thought that we had seen enough of Venice ; so
we beat a hasty retreat to our hotel, thankful that our lot had
been cast in a more enlightened age.
CHAPTER XLVIL
OVER THE ALPS.
FOR the last few weeks the world had seemed to us like an
art gallery in which we had strolled through endless halls
of paintings and statues. After leaving Venice we had gone
to Milan, and when we left the latter city behind us, and saw
iier renowned cathedral with its thousand marble spires
glittering in the morning sun disappear from our sight, it was
with a sense of relief that we turned our eyes toward the
enowy Alpine peaks, to view the wild scenes of Nature's
chiselino:.
Before long we found ourselves steaming up Lake Como,
stopping to take in numerous passengers from the villages
on either shore. This lake is twenty or twenty-five miles iu
length, but seldom over a mile in width, and frequently much
less. Its bright clear waters are peacefully nestled between
vine clad mountains, which rise abruptly to a height of
between one and two thousand feet and seem to open and
close as the traveler winds among them. Now a far-reaching
view is had over the lake between them, and then it is again
shut in from the outside world. Cosy houses, almost hid
among vines and orange groves, or surrounded with beautiful
gardens, were scattered here and there along the shore between
the villages. Higher up the mountain side were castles and
mansions gray and dreamy with age. Higher still the white
faces of dwellings peeped out from the green verdure ; and
away up Mhere the eagle soars aloft to perch upon the high-
est peaks or pinnacles, we could see objects which nppeared
427
428 AN EVENING ON LAKE COMO.
like mere speeds against the blue sky ; but our spy -glasses re-
vealed that they were the abodes of men. Clouds occasionally
came sweeping along half way up the side of the mountains,
at first merely obscuring the faces of the houses, but soon
becoming an impenetrable veil, enveloping the base, but
leaving the summit to smile upon the storm below. "When
the calmer evening came on we were seated in an ivy-hung
portico, looking out over the lake, while the music of the
guitar came floating to our ears from light canoes shooting
across the waters. No wonder we thought that we were in
on'e of tlie most enchanting places under heaven.
It was at Colico at the upper end of the lake that we ex-
changed our steamer for a coach. So level and green was
the valley that it seemed like a continuation of the lake. .
This valley gradually became narrower as we pursued our
way among the rugged mountains, and was dotted here and
there with a garden or small patch of grain, though mostly
covered with meadow in which roan-colored cattle roamed j
at pleasure, being tended by children who almost invariably l
fell asleep upon the grass. "
The peasants in the mountains in the extreme north of
Italy appeared to have no cares, and everything seemed to go
easy with them. The women seemed to do most of the out-
door work, but there wasn't much to be done. Here was one
raking up hay; there was another pitching it into tlie
wagon drawn by oxen ; there a third was digging potatoes
while her husband and children lay sleeping in the meadow;
and further on, a whole family were to be seen squatted upon
the grass or stretched out in the sun.
At one place we saw an old gentleman sleeping with his
head on a pillow of hay, while a fat, tame, and apparently
pet stag approached him, and seeing the hay, seized a mouth-
ful thereof, and with it, by mistake probably, some of the
sleeper's hair. Thereupon the old man awoke in a fright,
and started up so suddenly that he made matters worse, for
the stag was in turn frightened and leaped back without re-
membering to relinquish his hold on his master's locks. The
AT THE FOOT OF THE ALPS.
429
result was that the man was partially snatched bald-headed.
As he scrambled up, seized his cane and made for the offender,
one of our passengers called out to him : —
"Now, sonny, you'll help your wife dig the potatoes won't
you ? "
Toward evening we reached the little village of Cheaveuna
at the foot of the Alps. Here we halted, as we were not to
THK OLD MAS S PET.
make the ascent until earlv next morning. "We Avere now on
the Swiss borders, and there was more stir in the place than
we had seen in coming from Lake Como. A band was play-
ing, men, women and children were collected around, and
young ladies smiled from the balconies above.
Some of the women and girls were distributing from a stand
in the centre of the crowd, prizes to the successful competi-
tors in a shooting match, held the preceding day. We
watched the fair umpires as they awarded the prizes, and
430
AMONG THE VINEYARDS.
fancied we could guess from their countenances who were
their sweethearts.
Later in the evening we wandered along the side of the
little stream that went gliding and dashing in cataracts and
falls through the village ; and then we climbed up the side of
the mountains, where the nimble-footed goats were springing
from rock to rock. Occasionally we came upon a little cosy
Imt which had been concealed behind large mossy rocks ; and
further up we found groves of chestnut trees. Then, as we
strolled along, we met singing girls returning home, their
hands stained with grape-juice. We went on, and soon
:^^^fe=>.-Tjg^
A WIl.n-LOOKING MAN AVITll A CDDGEL IN HIS HAND.
found ourselves among the vineyards. Thinking that the
grapes M'ere wild, as they were growing so luxuriantly and
apparently uncared for, we concluded that there would be no
particular harm if we picked an occasional cluster. But we
were soon undeceived. We suddenly came face to face with
a wild-looking man with a stout cudgel in his hand. This in-
ASCENDING THE ALPS. 431
dividual showed signs of warlike intentions, and as we did not
feel quite prepared to do battle with him, we begged him
to accept a five-franc piece, saying at the same time that we
should not have trespassed had we not supposed that the
grapes were wild. Thereupon he took the money, and began
to pick some of the fruit for us. We had ah-eady as much
as we conld eat and signified tlie same to him. He replied
with a grin and a few words in an unknown tongue, evidently
as much pleased as we were that matters had taken such a
pleasant turn.
It Avas dark when we returned to our hotel, and shortly
after we retired. At three o'clock the next morning we
were awakened by a rap at our door, and heard a voice say-
ing: — "It is now time to ascend the Alps." Those words
shot through us like an electric thrill : in a few moments we
were up, and seated in the hindmost of the three coaches
that were to convey our party.
The morning was dark, and it was beginning to rain ; but
on we dragged up a deep black gorge, while the coach lanterns
showed us occasional glimpses of the rugged sides of the
chasm, and of a stream roaring and dashing far below to our
left. In an hour or so, we came to wliere there M-as a large
fall of water into this chasm, over the right wall along which
we were passing. We went no further in that direction, till
we had ascended higher than the falls by a number of short
zigzag turns, one above another, on the almost perpendicular
side of the mountain. Looking upwards during the ascent
we could see the other coaches almost directly above us.
As crack, crack, went the whips, and the horses' hoofs sounded
against the rock, we shuddered, lest in the darkness some ac-
cident might cause them to come tumbling down upon us.
When at a considerable height above the waterfall, the road
continued on in tunnels through the rock, and sometimes,
coming out to the edge of the chasm, ran along in defiance of
the precipice, till we came to a bridge on which we crossed
over the stream.
As daylight came on we had reached an altitude where
432 ON THE SUMMIT.
the storm changed from rain to sno-vr. At a distance we
espied through the gorge what we took to be a singular
looking cloud, and as we ascended higher it seemed to grow
larger and larger, and rise higher and higher above the sur-
rounding mountains. We discovered before long that it
was a rugged snow-capped peak resting in majestic sublimity
among the clouds. As we continued to ascend, others rose
up increasing in size. The storm became fiercer, the snow
whirled in air, the heavens grew dark, and we were but just
able to discern the dim forms of stately mountains and peaks,
to which we were drawing near. We fancied we could see
the avalanches forming on the sides. It was a snowy world
of grandeur. The horses shook their heads in the storm,
and there was some danger that the road might become im-
passable. But on we dragged up the side of the 'mountain
till we approached the summit, and then the storm began to
abate.
The upper strata of clouds were first dispelled, and we could
look down upon those below. Through them many a peak,
and occasionally the summit of a range, shot its frosty head
or raised its icy back. The clouds continued to melt away,
and scatter into fragments, between which we caught glimpses
of the mountain sides below, and the deep gorges where the
the cataract dashed and roared. It was a scene of chaos, a>
though the earth had been rent into ten thousand fragments,
and the angry ocean rolled between. Finally, as the clouds
became thinner, and began to roll down the gorges, allowing
the rays of the sun to pierce through, the most beautiful
colors appeared, as if the world had been flooded with rain
bows.
When all was clear, and the snowy robes of the mountains
sparkled in the sunshine, we began to descend the north side
of the Alps through the Spluger Pass, one of the wildest and
most fearful in Switzerland, We were now again in darkness ;
for the perpendicular — sometimes overhanging — walls of rock
rose up to a height of from one to two thousand feet, almost
bridging over the desolate chasm below. We had made slow
THE DESCENT.
4?.3
time tlms far, on account of the storm, but we now began to
make up for our loss. For four miles we shot down the
chasm, rocking fearfully from side to side according to the
curve of the walls, and passing over bridges several hundred
feet above the roaring falls and cataracts below.
At length, beyond the north end of the gorge, we caught
glimpses of beautiful valleys, and green hills upon M-hieli
the setting sun sinking in the west was throwing his hast
lingering rays. A few miles further on we put up for the
night at the village of Choir.
Going by rail to Zurich, M-e were surprised to find that the
cars were built after the American style. We saw none sim-
ilar to them elsewhere in Europe. We were not obliged to
OUR FUNNY FELLOW-PASSENGER.
enter small apartments from the sides, in which two seats
facins: each other ran crosswise the whole breadth of the
coach ; and we were not obliged to freeze because there was
no fire.
As we passed along, we were amused to hear such a clatter
of different languages all in one country. In Switzerland
there are about 1,750,000 Germans; 550,000 French ; 130,000
Italians; and 45,000 who speak a dialect very similar to the
old Roman or Latin lanijuaije. In our coach the three former
were about equally represented. It is strange to me, why
434 AN EXCURSION INTO GERMANY.
these languages do not become more mixed in Switzerland
than they do. Suppose a German marries an Italian lady,
and the children of this couple marry into French families,
what language would the grandchildren speak?
At one of the stopping-places, the funniest-looking man I
had ever seen took a seat opposite to us in the car. It was a
great relief when the train started, giving us a chance to vent
our mirth by roaring at something we fancied we saw out of
the window. The passengers, including our funny neighbor,
stretched their necks to see what it was that we were laugh-
ing at, but were unable to discover the cause of our mirth.
The country along the road was most beautiful, with lovely
valleys, hills and lakelets. In the villages, and frequently in
the country, we saw handsoine little gardens, green with grass,
shaded with trees, and divided into beautiful figures by
curving paths ; while in the centre of grassy plots might
frequentl}" be seen sparkling fountains.
In the course of a few hours we reached Zurich, beautifully
located at the head of a lake of the same name, and surround-
ed by mountains — the Alps being visible in the distance.
We stopped here a day or two, but as it was only a scene of
beauty, we soon tired. There were no ruins gray with time,
no magnificent cathedrals, no astounding architectural struct-
ures of any kind, nor was it the capital of a great nation.
So we went on to Basle in the north-western part of Switzer-
land.
From Basle we made a tour of observation into Germany,
— that is to say, we walked across a bridge over the Rhine
and visited a small town on the German fide of the river.
We only remained an hour or so, but have the satisfaction of
knowing that henceforth, when recounting our travels, we can
say truthfully that we have been in Germany.
CHAPTEK XLVIII.
PARIS AND LONDON.
ALTHOUGH our passports were all right, we felt but
little at ease as we approached Paris. The liii^li walls
surrounding the late imperial city appeared to us like relics
of barbarism, and seemed to saj^," Beware how you intrude."
But when we entered, and were driven along the broad
street?;, shaded avenues, and unrivaled boulevards, lined
with palatial windows, all aglow with diamond-set jewelry
which liad been left undisturbed during the siege, I then
realized that modern war meant mercy, when compared
with the wars of earlier and less civilized times. I could
hardly persuade myself, as we wandered through the gaily-
lighted streets, that this was poor down-trodden Paris,
whose most affluent children had starved or been fed on
scanty I'ations of mnle-meat during the siege.
The west end of the Tuileries, nearly a quarter of a mile
in length, had been considerably damaged during the
troublesome times, and workmen were repairing it when
we were there. The imperial family who so lately occupied
the palace were refugees in other lands ; and we happened
in at an auction sale of the private property they had left
behind them. An American lady present bought a (pian-
tity of under-clothing once belonging to the dethroned
Empress; and when we saw her examining critically a pair
of pantaloons shuffled off by the skedaddled Emperor, we
concluded that there was little chance for speculation ; so
we left the auction, and soon afterward the country.
435
430
VERSAILLES.
But of course, like all good Americans, we visited Ver-
sailles, a few miles from the metropolis. This was once
only a small village in a forest, where Louis XIII. had a
hunting-seat; but his successor, Louis XI Y., at an enor-
mous expense, converted it into a royal residence, large
enough and grand enough to lodge all the kings and queens
of Europe. Here the voluptuous monarch began his in-
timacy with the famous, or infamous, Madame de Marntenon,
who, while acting as governess to a lady of the court,
charmed and captivated him by her winning ways.
As a specimen of his devotion to the lady, it is related
that when on one occasion she expressed ' a wish for a
sleigh-ride, he c;iused the avenues for a long distance to be
covered, during the night, with salt and sugar ; and when she
arose in the morning a sleigh stood at the gate to gratify her
whim.
A SUMMEU 8LEIGII-IUUE.
It is said that the couple were privately married in 1SC5,
soon after the death of the queen, Maria Theresa j but she
was never publicly acknowledged by him.
We wandered at evening through the parks and pleasure
grounds of the palace. Everything seemed laid out on a
gigantic scale. The trees were trained into fantastic shapes ;
i^
OUIi FIRST NIGHT IX LONDON. 439
ruined columns ■were standing here and there ; and statue-
lined avenues stretched away as far as the eye could reach.
All seemed a gorgeous dream ; and as we halted on the brink
of a lake, the moon, emerging from behind the clouds, re-
vealed to us what appeared to be a mythological being in a
chariot drawn by floundering steeds rising from the water.
Versailles was devastated by the revolutionists in 1792 ;
but Louis Philippe restored its splendors, and concentrated
there many illustrations of the history of his country.
Paintings, sculptures, and other works of art now flU the
splendid halls of the noble palace.
As we rode through the country on our way to the Eng-
lish Channel, we saw many traces of the late war ; and the
greater number of Momen than men working in the fields,
told of absent husbands and sons. But if success in raising'
beets was an indication of prosperity, they were a prosper-
ous people. Immense piles of these vegetables, hundreds
of feet long and twenty or more high, were frequently to
be seen along the road. They were to be used in the man-
ufacture of sugnr.
We saw the artificial embankments which had reclaimed
many homesteads from the dominion of the sea. Down
the net-work of narrow canals the peasants paddled boats,
gathering their farm produce. Some were homeward
bound with loads, while others were going to the nearest
village to exchange their vegetables for family supplies.
These Holland canoes, though less fanciful, seemed as use-
ful and indispensable as the gondolas which I had seen
shooting like arrows along the watery streets of Venice, or
silently floating amid her anchored palaces.
* * * * * *
We didn't sleep much the first night we were in London,
as every two or three minutes a train of cars whizzed
beneath the foundation of our hotel. When 1 did doze, it
was to dream of St. Paul's; and as the next da}' was Sun-
day we thought it was a favorable time to visit this great
4:4:0 ST. PAUL'S AND WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
cathedral, which is worthy of the first place among the
edifices of Protestant Christendom.
On inquiring the way thither, we were advised to take
the underground railroad. Victoria Station was close to
our hotel, and we were soon shooting along beneath palaces
and hovels, stopping at numerous stations and starting again
with amazing rapidity. After going three or four miles we
left the regions of darkness, and took our place among the
worshipers of God in the cathedral ; but wo were more
interested in the building and its monuments than we were
in the ofiiciating clergymen.
Among the renowned personages buried in this cathe-
dral are Wellington, England's greatest soldier ; and the
naval hero Kelson, who, just before the battle at Trafalgar,
said to an ofiicer, " Now for a peerage or Westminster
Abbey." There are monuments to Sir John Moore, Lord
Cornwallis, Bishop Heber, and many others who have
reflected glory on the British Empire by their virtues,
heroism, and achievements at home and abroad.
Later in the day we visited that mausoleum of departed
greatness, Westminster Abbey. To rest at last in this
sacred spot has been the highest ambition of many a British
worthv, and England can show no o-reater honor to the
memory of any one than to bury him there. The place
abounds in all kinds of monuments, many of which are
beautiful works of art. The pavements, over which hun-
dreds of people were passing, were carved with the names
of the dead ; marble slabs represented the reposing forms
of the kings and queens of the Middle Ages, and along the
walls, in the aisles and transepts and chapels, and every-
where around, were tombs, tablets, statues and inscriptions.
In the "Poet's Corner," the busts of Milton, Shakspeare,
Pope, Dryden, and others, looked down upon us from
niches in the wall bearing epitaphs written in Latin and
old English, which we found very difficult to read. Be-
neath the seats were the resting places of others whose
names are familiar to the world ; and while standing on
AT THE TABEHNACLE.
441
one stone, we read upon it tlie name of Charles Dickens.
Time softens envy ; and rivals in wit, in literature, in the-
ology, in beauty, in poNver, and in roj'alty, sleep here peace-
fully, side by side.
In the evening we went to hear Spurgeon, the eminent
Baptist divine, who justly ranks among the most eloquent
preachers of the age ; and that he is one of the most popu-
lar of them, no one can doubt who goes into the neighbor-
hood of his church (called the Tabernacle), while his con-
gregation arc assembling. Everybody then in the streets
seems attracted to the same common center, and everybody
seems to be in a hurry.
GOIN(} TO HEAR SPURGEON.
Although we arrived early, vast crowds of people were
already waiting in the damp streets ; and when the iron
gates were thrown open, the front yard, wide steps, and ca-
pacious portico were speedily filled. We succeeded in get-
ting a position at the front, Avhere we were pressed against
one of the doors b}' the throng behind us. In this uncom-
fortable place we were kept for what seemed an hour, but
amused ourselves bv listening to the noise made within
44:2 TRAFALGAR SQUARE.
by the pew-bolders, as they entered by private doors and
called out the numbers of their scats to the ushers.
At last the key turned, the door opened, and we were at
once shot far up the main aisle by the advancing throng.
We secured seats on a vast elevated platform, below an-
other platform upon which the preacher stood, and where
we liad a good view of him during the service. Every
seat in the building seemed full, but still people flocked
in by hundreds.
The singing, in which Spurgeon joined, was truly won-
derful, and the strains poured down from the lofty galleries
like the voice of many thunders. Then followed a fervent
prayer, in which the supplicant seemed to plead and argue
as if fiice to face with his Maker. The sermon was listened
to with profound attention, and could be heard distinctly
in the remotest corners of the vast room. The vehement
eloquence and serene faith of the speaker seemed to carry
the audience along as willing captives ; and his pathos and
good humor provoked alternately smiles and tears.
London is well provided with public parks, gardens,
and pleasure-grounds, into which the crowded streets pour
out their throngs to enjoy a new life, and gather health
and recreation. One of the largest in the city is Hyde
Park ; and we here saw a great many people skating on
the river within it. At the ZooloHcal Gardens, in Regent's
Park, we saw specimens of every animal, bird and reptile
which we were acquainted with, and a good many others.
Trafalgar Square is one of the finest squares to be found
anywhere. On one side of it is the National Gallery of
Art, where we saw the largest collection of paintings in
England. This is a free gallery, and it is one of the
most frequented places in London. In the square, opposite
this edifice, is Kelson's Monument — an imposing and very
handsome column, surmounted by a figure of Nelson.
The Crystal Palace is about ten miles away from the
city, but so easily accessable by steam cars that it is very
popular as a rural resort. The 'grounds are magnificent;
and the edifice, made entirely of glass and iron, is perhaps
THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
443
the most wonderful structure in the world. Beneath its
elougcated dome, Natiire finds at all seasons of the year a
tropical home. Fountains
play ; broad leaves, between
which dart golden fish, float
upon the surface of lakes;
birds of rich plumage perch
upon branches ; vines cling
to trees and to rocks, among
Avhich barbarous natives of
various climes, as natural as
life, spear the springing
tiger ; while upon the sandy
desert, Arabs spread their
tents and rest their cjynels.
Under the 2;lassv wine's of
the Palace are ancient build-
in irs adorned with statues as
in the days of their glorv ;
and thousands of ffav and nelson's siu.NUiiEM, ikafalg.-.u .-(jlaki;
happy visitors wander through the courts and temples of
Egypt, Greece, Tiome, and other countries, as if treading
the rich apartments of proud kings.
We were astonished at the number of beir2;ars that we
met with in London. They seemed to be of every age and
in every condition of beggary — objects of pity that rent our
hearts. Puny arms were held out to ask alms, or else to
implore us to purchase some trifle or other, which was only
offered as an excuse for begging. One poor thing, a little
girl of thirteen, perhaps, followed us the whole length of
the Houses of Parliament, beseechino- us for God's sake to
give her a trifle, for her mother was sick and had not tasted
food for two days. Anc^ther girl, a young woman in fact,
entreated us, with a cheerful face, to buy a little bunch of
flowers. She told us how grateful she would be, and even
promised to pray for us ; but when she finally despaired
of effecting a sale, she actually turned awny and cried bit-
27^
U4:
LONDON BEGGARS.
terlj. We couldn't stand that ; so we paid her the price
of the flowers and then made her a present of tliera.
But Heaven only knows when tears are shed in earnest ;
for these beggars study their profession, like actors on the
the stage, and know well every way to move the hearts of
men. They strip off their shoes, and walk in the middle
of the damp freezing streets, singing mournful songs. A
blind couple will borrow a family of deformed children,
and train themselves as a band of musicians. Such a party
played near our window at dead of every night for two or
three weeks before Christmas, and during the holidays.
fi
'TUEUE snE SAT AS USUAL.
Day after day and month after month, thousands of
street-sweepers stand at their respective crossings, using
their brooms dexterously when they see a stylish party ap-
proaching, and holding out their hands for a reward ; and
thousands of other persons have sittings where each one
constantly exhibits a basket of fruit. Were 1 to return to
London,! should expect to see a beautiful girl, with one leg
THE LORD MAYOR'S SHOW. 44,5
and a few sticks of cand}*, still sittinc^ on a little box before
the Queen's gate ; ^vllicll gate, by the way, "we once mis-
took in the fog for the entrance to St. James Park — finding
out our mistake when halted, almost at the steps of the palace,
by the bayonet of a guard gorgeously arrayed in red coat
and bear-skin cap. By another mansion I should look for
a woman with two children — one in her arms — sitting on
the stone step. When I last passed the place, it was on a
cold night just after the clock in the tower had struck ten ;
but there she sat as usual, with bare arm projecting from a
thin shawl which partially covered her shivering children.
I still seem to see the pallid hand holding out a penny
match-box, and to hear her piteous words of appeal. Ko ;
if I returned I should not expect to find her where I last
saw her, but in her grave.
But notwithstanding the appearance of penury and
misery which are seen so often on the streets of London,
far more touching scenes of woe and wretchedness could
doubtless be found in the hovels which line both sides of
many of the squalid lanes, courts and by-ways of the city,
where poverty-stricken families who have not lost the sense
of shame find a retreat from the sight of the world.
One day, with a heavy heart and a light pocketbook, (for
the expected remittance had not arrived,) I left the post-
office and wandered down towards the river to see the
" Lord Mayor's Show," as the newsboys, running about
with long pictorial programmes of the procession stream-
ing in the air, called it. For two miles or more the
magnificent stone embankment, fifty feet Avidc, with all the
roads leading to it, was densely packed with people, wait-
ing for the newly-elected mayor and his endless retinue to
pass by, on their way from the Mansion House to the scene
of inauguration at "Westminster Abbey.
Before long I found myself among a jolly set of rough
fellows Mho, devoid of care, were boxing, knocking oif
hats, and occasionally throwing a dethroned tile over the
heads of the crowd into the river. In the midst of this
44:6
CALEB IN BAD COMPANV.
sport, one of them suddenly cried out " Spurgcon ; " and
though I tried to seem unconscious of the fact, I became
aware tliat the remark referred to me. Again a wide
moutli belloM-ed out " Spurgeon ; " another one, " Apostolic
Spurgeon ; " and I was somewhat frightened to find that
wherever I turned, hundreds of eyes were staring upon me.
I was reminded of a drove of Texan cattle, which, with
wild curiosity, encircle a lonely footman, bellow, and toss
their heads, until one makes a pass at him and the rest
trample him down.
I
AMONG THE HOCGIIS.
At length one of the fellows was shoved against me ;
tben another, and another, until the pressure was greater
than my temper could bear. Fear left me. Giving my
fists full play square in their faces, I started hastily forward,
and was soon met by policemen coming to my rescue, who
saved the beggarly rascals from the disgrace of rifling my
empty pockets.
THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 44.7
Wo spent considerable time in the British Mufeum,
which is one of the chief attractions of London. Here, for
more than a century, have been accumulating a vast numl>er
of antiquities and curiosities, and the collection is probably
unequaled in interest and value by any in the world. A
library of nearly a million books, printed in vaiicnis lan-
guages and treating of every imaginable subject, constitutes
one department of the museum. Tlicre is also a reading-
room which will accommodate three hundred readers at a
time.
We saw at the museum, arrow-heads of flint and axes of
stone which had been discovered in various parts of Eng-
land ; and could trace how the son improved upon the
work of his father in the manufacture of spears, arrows,
and other implements of war. We could see where bronze
came into use, -where iron, where steel. We could see
when the Romans came into Britain, and could trace the
new ideas which they suggested. We could follow the race
up through its various improvements, from the time when
London was but a collection of British wigwams, and paint-
ed savages paddled in the river where now fl(jated the Great
Eastern, just returned from laying a cable in Oriental waters.
We also saw the various pieces of broken stone covered
with strange-looking letters, which, on being put together
and deciphered, proved to be an Assyrian account of the
deluge. These stones had been exhumed from the palace
of one of the last potentates of the doomed city of Nineveh.
In this palace the monarch could walk from hall to hall and
from chamber to chamber, and read from inscriptions on the
vast slabs of alabaster which lined the walls, the history of
his country ; while representations of battles, sieges, and
pursuits of enemies, carved and painted on stone, with
eagle-headed figures, winged lions and flying bulls, every-
where met his gaze. Subsequently the province of Baby-
lon revolted and marched upon Nineveh ; the waters of the
Tigris were turned through the city ; the king in despair
killed himself after setting fire to his palace, the apart-
4AS
THE NIMROD PALACE.
ments of wliicli were filled witli the falling ruins. Excava-
tors have recently brought again to light the long-hidden
stones, slabs, and statues, and many of them have been
placed in this museum.
In the Nimrod palace I took an interest in the manner in
which one of the royal descendants of the mighty hunter
was showering his arrows upon the head and breast of a
roaring lion which was endeavoring to show that turn about
was fair play. It would have been an easy matter, apparent-
ly, for the hunter's bearded attendants to have broken ranks
and taken a hand ; but they believed in keeping step in
those days. It is a wonder that the lion did not upset the
chariot and spill out the king ; but he did not, for the next
slab represents the hunter at home, with beardless eunuchs
around him oflering cups of beverage, and a dead lion at
his feet.
CIIAPTEll XLIX.
HOMEWARD BOCND.
"TTTE were now about to part. Caleb was resolved to
T T remain in London a few weel<s longer, while I waa
just as determined to return to America without delay. So
without any pulling of hair, or similar demonstration, I bade
him o-ooJ-bye, and was soon on a railroad train bound for
Liverpool, where I intended to take a steamer for New-
York. Although it was mid-winter the hills and valleys
were still green, but the everlasting fog was hovering
over all.
I took passage by a steamer of the Inman line, and with
the other cal/in passengers was conveyed to the vessel, which
was anchored a short distance from the shore, in a small
steamboat. The steerage passengers, with their bedding,
tin ware, and other traps for housekeeping purposes during
the voyage, had previonsly been taken on board. They
were a motley-looking crowd, setting out to seek their for-
tunes in the western world. There was a little delay in
starting, and I became impatient even to restlessness till
finally the agitation of the water showed that the great
screw at the stern, whose gigantic force was to propel ua
across the ocean, had begun to move.
AVhen one day out from Liverpool we stopped at Queens-
town, a port at the southern extremity of Ireland, to take
on board some more steerage passengers — men, women, and
children. They were a jolly and noisy set, and some of the
men seemed intoxicated, or partially so. The women scolded,
the children squalled, the men laughed and joked, tin dishes
450
JOLLY EMIGRANTS.
clattered, and all was confusion. This confusion \ras increased
wlien it \vas found that some of them must go into the lower
Bteerage — a dark apartment below the surface of the water
— as the upper one already contained as many passengers as
it could accommodate comfortably, or even uncomfortably.
Some of the women remonstrated, till they found it was of
GOING BELOW.
no nse doing so^ and that there was no other place where
they could be stowed away.
One couple — lately married, I judged — were particularly
conspicuous among the new-comers — the man by liis willing-
ness to take up his abode below, and his wife by her obsti-
nacy about doing so. Finally, however, she yielded to his
solicitations, picked up her bedding, and tripped it lightly
MEAL-TIME IX THE STEERAGE. 45 1
down the stairs. Her tipsy young husband, \vilh his hands
full of tin ware and frying ])ans, and with other articles of
the same culinary nature tied tc^ij-ether and struni:- over his
shoulder, started to follow her, singing a lively refrain and
keeping time thereto with dancing feet. At the top of the
steps he stumbled, lost his balance, and went tumbling down,
head first, while the din of his tin wares rose above the
screams of his astonished better half. AVe all thought that
he was killed or seriously damaged, but he jumped quickly
np and began dancing again as if nothing unusual had
happened.
I never ventured to go into the lower apartment occupied
by these emigrants, but sometimes visited their more desira-
ble quarters above. Here, at meal-time, the passengers rang-
ed themselves in rows, and held out their tin cups to receive
the soup or gruel which the stewards dipped out to each
from an immense can dragged along the flour; or they held
out. their tin plates and hands for more solid rations in the
shape of meat and biscuits, which were distributed from large
pans and baskets. There was at times considerable of a strife
for the places near the head of the table (figuratively speak-
ing,) where the stewards would begin their dispensations of
good things to the hungry crowd. Occasionally a boy, after
having been served at the upper end of the line, would
swallow his hot gruel, stick his biscuit in his pocket, and slip
slyly down to the lower end, there to receive a second allow-
ance. Sometimes however the stewards would detect the
trick, and then the rogue would receive a biscuit aimed at
his head.
On the whole these emigrants seemed, at the start, to enjoy
their voyage much better than the cabin passengers did. On
some evenings they sang hymns or love-ditties, and on others
they danced merrily to the music of a fiddle. But after-
wards, during a fearful and protracted storm, with all the
port-holes and sky-lights closed to keep out the water which
came sweeping over the vessel, these steerage passengers must
have suffered terribly in their close quarters. Many, no
452
A STORM OX THE ATLANTIC.
donbt, wished sincerely that thej had been better contented
at home.
For a week the weather had been fine for the time of year,
and we were anticipating a quick and smooth voyage. But
on the seventh day the wind began to rise, and it increased
during the night, causing the vessel to roll and toss con-
siderably. Next morning it blew harder, and small waves
were occasionally dashed over the deck. Only a few of the
boldest passngeers ventured out, and as the storm increased
even tliey were glad to seek again the shelter below, but
even there the water found its way. Although the sky-lights
A DANCE IX THE STEEUAGK.
of the upper deck were closed, the water at times poured in
torrents through them into the cabin below, and some of the
passengers tried to escape from it by jutnping upon the
settees. Duriiiij the niorht the vessel labored heavily, and
every timber in her seemed to groan and creak.
I shall never forget the scene which I peeped out upon the
next morning through the boxed-up door. The wind was
blowing liarder than ever, and almost took away my breath.
The salt vapors, like a driving mist, blinded me. The v>'aves
A COMPLIMENT TO THE PASSENGERS. 453
were chasing each other in tlie wildest fury. The steamer
would rise apparently mountain high and then dive headlong
down the waves as if nothing could prevent her from going
to the bottom. Not infrequently the prow struck under a
great wave, the vessel trembled as if she had run on to a
rock, and immediately the waters above came thundering over
her entire length. All day long the situation M'as, to lands-
men at least, truly alarming.
Night came on again and darkness spread her black wings
over the chaos of waters, but brought no change for the bet-
ter. Towards midnight a fearful wave crashed in the bul-
warks, and the waters came pouring in, causing great conster-
nation among the passengers. Almost immediately afterward
the steamer's whistle was sounded, and this fresh cause for
alarm brought out of their bunks all of the passengers who
were not too sea-sick to care much whether we sunk or not.
One man ran up and down the cabin, crying, "We are lost!
we are lost ! " Another one, who was a cripple, hopped about
in a way that would have been most laugliable at any other
time. A third person, who I judged liad rather a poor opin-
ion of his fellow passengers, startled us all by ejaculating, "We
are all going to h- ^". For my own part, I felt that I M'ould
give a small fortune to be put safely ashore.
We soon learned however that no serious damaere had been
received ; and that the whistling was to guard against collision
with other vessels, as we were in dense fogs off the coast of
Newfoundland.
The long night passed slowly away, and morning came at
last. During the day the storm slightly abated, and on the
succeeding day its fury was over, though the waves were
still runnim; hio;h.
Another morning dawned, and land was in sight at last.
The passengers assembled on deck, and as they gazed
"On old Long Island's sea girt shore,"
many a face which had been pallid through the voyage, bright-
ened up with joy — many a terror-stricken heart warmed to
life again.
454: OUR GREAT ilETROrOLIS.
As M-e steamed up the noble harbor of New York, Castle
Garden, the spire of Trinity Church, the Xorth and East Eiv-
ers with the ferry boats sliooting across them — everything in
fact looked wonderfully familiar, though I had visited Xew
York City but once before. I was greatly elated, and felt at
home again in my native land, although still separated by
many hundred miles from the friends who awaited me far be-
yond the Mississippi.
I remained in New York only a short time, but saw enough
of lier stately buildings, fine parks, thronged streets, shipping
and commercial bustle, to convince me that Americans have
no reason to be ashamed of their meti-opolis — that even
France and England might be proud of such a city. Though
she has not as many fine streets as Paris, her commercial im-
portance is proportionally greater ; and though her population
is small compared with that of London, her natural location
is better and her surrouudino-s more attractive.
From New York I went to Washington, that city of job-
bery and corruption, and arrived just in time to attend the
President's levee. Early in the evening people by the
thousands — aristocrats in coaches and plebians on foot,
honest men and rogues — had begun to assemble at the "White
House. 1 had been told that there was considerable crowd-
ing on these occasions, but had not the slightest idea of the
extent it was indulged in till I experienced it myself. I
would not be knocked about again as I was that evening for
the privilege of shaking hands with all the presidents in the
world.
Policemen were stationed at the outside and inside doors
to check the surging crowds, and succeeded to some extent
in doinc: so. Occasionally some one of the ladies ahead of
me would scream out, and though I at first supposed they
were merely taking advantage of a good opportunity to fall
into friendly arms, I thought difi'erently afterward when I
reached the thickest of the throng and was myself more than
half suffocated.
AT THE PRESIDENT'S LEYEE.
455
At last I emerged into the charmed circle where stood the
President and his wife, who looked at me so pleasantly that
I thought they mistook me for some old friend. I was
then introduced, and shook hands with each. As 1 was leav-
ing them, with the idea that they felt honored by my pres-
ence, I discovered that a benev^olent-looking but very home-
A PRESIDENT AND PRESIDENT-MAKER.
ly negro was the next visitor to be presented ; and from his
hesitating steps it was evident that he was mn^h embarrassed.
But the President smilingly reached out his hand to Iwm,
and, as far as I could judge, received him as cordially as he
had me.
Passing on through elegant apartments and halls I at
length reached the open air. Visitors were still flocking in
by hundreds; and I could but feel pity for the occupants of
the White House who were thus undergoing one of the pen-
alties of their exalted condition. I went away thankful that
I was but a private citizen, and formed a resolution never
to attend another president's levee, if I could avoid it.
45G
HOME AGAIN !
From "Washington, I proceeded leisurely westward, visiting
the Mammoth Cave in Kentucky, and other places of interest.
I tarried for a few days at Cincinnati, Chicago, and St. Louis,
and reached my home about the middle of May. Caleb join-
ed me in due time, coming by the way of Canada ; and un-
der the same spreading apple-tree where we had originally
planned our travels, we recounted to interested and sympa-
thizing friends many stories of the people we had met ii?
OUli WESTWARD FLIGHT AHOUND THE WOKLD.
SOME OF THE PEOPLE WE HAD MET.
Til© Columbmzi Hools Cozsipan^^
OP
Hi^i^TiT-oi^nD, coisrisr-,
^r*? Publishers of J^h'sf- Class, Standai'd, Illustrated Works,
it'liich are sold 2>y Subscription Oiily.
They Tvill bring out only works of liigli moral tone, rare
literary merit, and positive and permanent value — works,
which from their intrinsic and sterling worth, will he welcomed
to every Home and Fireside in the Country, and he a credit to
the Canvassers who introduce them.
As their plan of conducting business enal)les them to make
very large sales of every work, they supply Agents at a very
small advance from actual cost, (giving them nearly all the
profits,) thus ensuring to energetic men and women large pay for
their services. The established retail prices are always lower
than books of equal cost and character are sold for at bookstores.
In mechanical execution their publications will always be first-
class — well printed on good paper, and tastefully and substan-
tially bound. Publishing but a limited number of books, yearly,
they are enabled to give particular attention to their manufac-
ture, and to expend money freely in illustrating them. Sub-
scribers for their works can always depend on receiving what
they contract for.
to sell these Books in every town in the United States.
Agents for good books are a lasting benefit in any com-
munity, and their calling is a nol)le one. To men and women
wishing honorable, pleasant and lucrative employment we oft'er
great inducements. Young men who engage in this business
will gain a knowledge of the country, and of men and things
which will be of great benefit to them.
Agents who canvass for our Works in the Western and South-
ern sections of the country, will be supplied with books from
our offices at the West and South.
Ch'culars with full information are sent promptly to any one
wishing an agency. Address,
COLUMBIAN BOOK COMPANY,
Hartford, Conn., and Chicaoo, Ilu
JOSN PA UL'S OI*IJ^IO]>f OF HIS BOOK.
From the New York Daily Tribune.
To the Editor of The Tribune.
Sin : To you, ■who know my modest nature well, it is not necessary that I demonstrate
how it pains mc to find myself forced into a personal mention which, to the prejudiced
eye, may look very much like an intention to advertise the work of my hands. But you,
who have so often remarked upon my unwillingness to exalt my own horn (or blow it),
unless the public good were to be subserved thereby (and it could be done in a way which
passed all human ingenuity to find out), can give indignant denial to any such suspicion.
To the many requests that I would state, witli the weight which a responsible name ever
carries with it, what sort of a book mine is to be, when it is to be published, and several
other particulars in regard to which I am erroneously supposed to be well informed, I
long turned a deaf car. But when His Illustrious Majesty of Prussia, King William,
politely requests that I Avill ease his Imperial mind on those points, can I longer refuse ?
Briefly, then, I will not positively tay that my book is the best which the century has
produced. But when I say that no book of early or late date has so forcibly attracted
my attention, that in none has my interest been enlisted to such a degree, I trust that it
will be believed that I speak only the truth ! Looking over it now, after several very
careful readings previously, I do not find one line which even a dyer "could wish to
blot;" and certainly one could not take away a page without spoiling the Table of Con-
tents—already in press ; nor could you add a page without making the book too big to
bo carried round by hand !
For there are already 684 pages of it, to say nothing about the portrait-page at the
beginning— about which the less said the better, perhaps. And all the illustrations are
full-page— though as all the pages are not full of illustrations, this is not quite so bad as
it might be.
As to when the book will be out, I don't know. The compositors who should have
set it up, stopped and sat themselves down instead to read, and many of them took the
copy home to read to their families. The consequence was an interesting " revival " in
Hartford, but a delay to the book. However, along toward the middle of this month, if
householders wish to get out of its way and avoid agents, they had better leave the
country.
Notwithstanding what has been said, it must not be rashly concluded that it is, strictly
speaking, a theological book. The truth it contains is the result of accident mostly
rather than of design. And this perhaps is one reason why it works on the wicked
human system so powerfully; I flatter myself that to me belongs the credit of moving
upon sinners strategically, and taking them by surprise. Before they know that any
one is gunning for them, you see I've got 'em where the capillary growth is of mhiimum
length, and the best thing they can do is lie still and say nothing about it. And I may
add that though orders for my book may not come in from Sunday schools at once, I am
confident the demand from that source will never be less than it is at the beginning.
Ladies will like the book unquestionably. With the hair-drawn pencil of poetic
prophecy, Mr. Tennyson foretells this when he paints the Lady of Shalott:
" But iQ her Webb sho still delights."
And I see no reason why ladies should not delight in my book, whether they are given
merely to the mild shallott or confess to an insane preference for a more virulent form
of onion.
As I was saying, when interrupted, I cannot say exactly when the book will be out.
However, I can state positively that the publishers are out already, and will probably l-o
out more when the work gets further along. But being a wealthy and powerful concern
—the Columbian Book Company of Hartford— I guess they'll manage to worry thCouglu
I was obliged to go to Hartford to avoid existing jealousy and contentions among
our local publishers. Now that none of them at all has it, they sit on their ragged
anxieties with much more of calm and comfort. And as I was saying, as the present
month wears along it will daily become more and more hazardous for any householder to
express a wish to buy the John Paul book in the hearing of a man that looks like a
uiinister, for he may be entertaining by that remark an agent unawares.
And now I trust that King William of Prussia is satisticd, and that he will instruct the
chambermaids about the palace to economize in the use of Prussian blue, so that the
Royal family may be able to buy a copy of my book.
Piespcctfully yours,
Jon.v Paul.
%
RARE BOOK
COLLECTION
THE LIBRARY OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF
NORTH CAROLINA
AT
CHAPEL HILL
Travel
G440
.H78
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