t « %:Wm 1 1 ii '■T Texlib ris LP- - 1 &UCE COTTEN COLLECTION OF NORTH CAROIHNJANA . , ,■ ...i, .',.. Mil ' , '■:■■ O N S C E I N A, N ISLES D. iND, Vgow, :, Edinburgh INFORMATION S J CONCERNING THE PROVINCE O F NORTH CAROLINA, ADDRESSED TO EMIGRANTS FROM THE HIGHLANDS and WESTERN ISLES O E SCOTLAND.' BY AN IMPARTIAL HAND, KOS PATRIAM FUGIMUS, GLASGOW: Printed for James Knox, Boole feller, Glafgow, And Charles Eli, ioT,BookfeJler Parliament Glofe, Edinburgh, MDCCLXXHI. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill http://www.archive.org/details/informationsconcOOscot A T I O N S CONCERNING THE PROVINCE O F ORTH CAROLINA. IGR.ATIONS to America from many parts of Britain, particularly to the province of North Ca- rolina, from the Highlands and ifles of Scotland, have, of late, become very frequent and numerous, and are likely to continue fo. Whatever this may be owing to, the matter is ferious, and, to fome, the confequences are very alarming. The natives of the Highlands and ifles have al- ways been remarkable for the ftrongeft attachment to the place of their nativity, and for the higher! refpecl: towards their mailers and fuperiors. In thefe, they were wont to find kind patrons and protectors, and cherifhing, indul- gent fathers to themfelves and families. This endeared to them a foil and climate to which nature has not been very liberal of its favours, in fomuch, that they have e- ver {hewn the utmofh averfion at leaving their country, or removing to happier regions, and more indulgent climates,, That this is true of the Highlanders in general, will be acknowledged by thofe who are in the leafl acquainted with them. The caufe, then, that could induce a people of this caft, to forfake their native lands, in fuch num- bers, and make them feek for habitations in countries far diftant and unknown, muft, doubtleTs, be very cogent and powerful. And, here, let the prefent land-holders and proprietors confider, whether, of late, they are not greatly to blame? whether they have not begun to fliake A [ 4 ] the iron rod of opprcffion too much over them ? Let pr<*~ prietors of the largeft eftates among them, fuch whofe fortunes enables them to figure it away in life, aik them- felves, if they have not ufed every means to eftrange the affections of the Highlanders from them ? whether they have not contributed all in their power, and, in a man- ner, exerted themfelves to make their home intolerable and difagreeable to them, and lefTen their once ftrong at- tachment towards their beloved, though poor country, fo as to make them forget their native prejudices, furmount every apparent difficulty, and become emigrants and ad- venturers to other climes and regions far remote. The luxury, duTipation, and extravagance of the times, may chiefly account for this change cf conduct in the land- holders towards their tenants. Formerly the pro- prietors refided moftly among them upon their eftates, converfed freely, and were familiar with them, were ten* der of them, cherifhed, and patronized them ; to them the tenants were devoted; to them they had recourfe up- on every emergency : they were happy, they grew up and profpered under them. The modern lairds, unlike their fore-fathers, live at a great diftance from their eftates. Whatever misfortunes may befal the tenants, whatever grievances they have to complain of, whatever oppreffion they may groan under, they have no accefs to their maf- ters; they fcarce know where he lives, or where to find him; or, if they fhould, it is a long and expenfive jour- ney to go where he is; and complaints at a diftance are feldom liftened to, or properly redreffed. Carelefs and unconcerned the mafter lives in the circle, as it is called, of the gay and the great. There, in a round of merri- ment and whim, in a vortex of airy amufements, of gid- dy and unfubftantial pleafures^ and at the height of an ex- [ 5 ] penfive, though falfe and unnatural tafte, he fquanders a- way his fortune, and waftes his time and his health at once. Seldom does he vifit his effote, or if he deigns to do it, it is only with an intention to fqueeze and opprefs the te- nants ftill more, and then betake himfelf in hafte to the fame fcenes of diflipation and luxury, where, what he has extorted from the over-awed and deluded tenants, foon runs fhort, and is exhafled. In thefe vifits to their eftates, they are commonly attended with minions and fyco- phants, ever ready to foothe and flatter them, and ex- cite their predominant paflions, to the great hurt of the tenants, whom they are taught to look upon, only as inftru- ments whereby to gratify their avarice and extravagance. And when the poorexpe£t relief and protection from their mafters, as formerly, they find every avenue and all ac- cefs to them fhut up, or, if admitted into their prefence, they find fuch an awful diftance and ftate kept, that they are fpurned away with looks exprefiive of the utmofl contempt, or difmifled with a volley of oaths and cur- fes, in « language ftrange and unknown to the mofl of them. Thefe gentlemen too, accu domed to live in large and wealthy cities, or in the mod fertile and bell cultivated provinces of Britain, are greatly mocked, in their vifits, at the rude afpecf., and fteril face of the Highlands, and at the fmall progrefs that agriculture makes in thefe re- mote parts. The natives are exclaimed againft, as an in- tractable, idle, and ufelefs fet of beings. "Without means, without encouragement, at a diftance from market, a- gainft climate, and foil too, in many places, it is expect- ed of them, that they fbould cultivate and enclofe wide extended heaths, ragged mountains, and large barren mo- A 2 [ 6 ] raffes. But, may it not be afked, if the proprietors them- felves have (hewn any extraordinary fpecimen or examples ot this fort among them ? have they done any thing effec- tual towards bringing on, or eftablifhing fifheries, trade, or manuiactorit^ on their eftates? Such of them as do improve and enclose heir ground, is it not at an immenfe cx- pence, tar beyond the reach of moft tenants in the High- lands? Are not thefe things carried on Irom father to fon, through a long tract of time? And, in general, may it not be aiked, whether much advantage has, as yet, been made of them ? and whether they are not ftill at a very low pafs over all the Highlands? But, at any rate, can it be expe£led, that tenants, upon fhort leafes, can do any thing remarkable in this way, efpecially at this period, when, inftead of that tender indulgence and encouragement requifite to bring forward agriculture in a country ftill lying in a ftate of nature, nothing is heard of but new impofitions, new graffums, and a rife of rents equal to, if not beyond, what the grofs produce of the ground can amount to? But if, in the opinion of thefe gentlemen, the native Highlanders are deemed fo ufelefs and lazy a people at home, why is any bar at- tempted to be thrown in the way of their emigrating from their native country? why rather not contribute to fend them off, in order to make room lor another '* let of te- *' nants more able and induitrious, that will foon make " the country put on a different afpe£t, that, by dint of " labour or magic,, (hall make their barren waftes, and heath Ci grown mountains, rival, in verdure and produce, the <« fertile plains of Lothian, or the Carfe of Falkirkj" te- nants that can bear any load laid upon them by their ten- der-hearted landlords, with chearfulnefs, and without murmuring? "Whajt a happinefs for thefe needy and ar-» I 7 T bitrary lairds to rule over a parcel of fitch tame and paffive fubjeelis? But, in the name of wonder ! why are fuch low arts u- fed to hinder the Highlanders from quitting their coun- try? why fo much ridicule thrown on America? why lb many falfe representations, and difcouraging accounts given of it, in the public papers ? and, when thefe feem. to be difregarded, and of no cffe£t, why is recourfe had to the daring effrontery of fome puny fcribbler, to threaten the interferance of adminiftration againft depo- pulating the Highlands, and that a parliamentary inquiry was to be made, to prevent any more emigrations, as if the Highlanders were totally ignorant of the world, and of the laws of their country ? The Highlanders are not to be intimidated by bugbears; nor are they fo little verfant in the hiftory and conftitution of their country, as not to know that they are free born, and that they have a right to emigrate into any part of the Britifh domini- ons that they chufe. Such mean hints, and defpotic no- tions, might well enough fuit the meridian of Mofcow, or of I^aris, during the reigns of Peter the Great, or Lewis XIV. How fatal to France was the opprefhon and per- fection of the Huguenots? what a reproach to the me- mory of Lewis? and how vain were his fevere edi£ts, and all his endeavours, to prevent their emigrating from that country? are fadts too well known and afcertained. What io-norance 5 then, of the laws and conftitution of Britain, do writers of this ffcamp betray? how unworthy are they of the protection and bleffing of thefe laws ? what friends are they to domeftic tyranny and private oppreffion, when they thus talk of getting them fandtified, and our chains faftened and rivetted by the authority of a Britifh legiflature. It is indeed aftonifhing, how far ignorance, partiality, and t « 3 prejudice, will often carry people. But,furely, it muft be a new thing in thefe enlightened times, for one to publi ih l'uch glaring abfurdities, fuch grovelling fentiments, concern- ing the right of Britifh fubjecls to change their place of fettlement under the fame happy government. None but a rapacious, defpotic land- holder, or his greedy, difap- pointed factor, or agent, could be capable of it. Theiis, then* be all the praife of this generous and well-timed fuggeftion! theirs alfo be the glory of falling upon thofe lucky expedients, by which the Highlanders are forced from their dwellings, and reduced to the hard neceflity of making ufe of emigrating from their country, which, by all laws, human and divine, they know they are, and ought to be poffeffed of! A moderate rife of rents, is what every proprietor has a right to expecl:, at certain periods of time, in a coun- try advancing in agriculture, trade, and manufactures. How far back the Highlands in general are, in thefe re- fpe£r.5, is too obvious to the view of every vifiting travel- ler: yet no fet of people would be more difpofed, or rea- dy to give additional rents, and graffums, than the High- landers, according to their circumftances; for they com- monly think it a hardfhip to change their mafter, and look upon it asworfe than ban iff) ment to be obliged toquit the fpotwhere theyandtheir fore-fathers havelived. Some of their land-holders, not ignorant of the prejudices and ftrong attachments of this fort that prevail among them, and prompted by their own avarice or extravagance, both equally infatiable, have laid down fchemes for railing their lands to three or four rents, with graffums. Some of the poor tenants were over-awed, and fome others de- luded, to take their lands at this immenfe rife, and, Xaving fcarce flood it two years, h^ve become bankrupts [ 9 J and beggars. Thus, though they and their fore-fathers might have formerly lived eafy, and made fome fmall provifion for their families, they are now, by one fweep of graffum and additional rent, reduced, at once, to the lowed date of indigence. It is a well known and received maxim, in farming, that the grofs produce of the land fhould be, at leaft, e- qual to three of the current rents, or by what means (hall the farmer fupport himfelf ? But, in thefe modern fchemes, this maxim is quite laid afide, and another o£ a very different and ftrange complexion is attempted to be fubflituted in its place, viz. " That the more rent is " laid upon any farm, the better (hall the tenant be able " to improve the land, to pay his rent, and to live well, * s than when he paid a fmall rent." In conformity to this refined maxim, fome of thefe gentlemen fet part of their lands, and fobn found their expectations difappointed. With true tyrannic perfeverance, they have tried one fet of tenants after another, by the fame rule, and have feen them all beggared in their circumftances. When they perceived fome tenants of more fpirit than the reft, dis- cover an impatience of the oppreffions they bore, throw- up their tacks, convert the remainder of their fubje£t into cam, and attempted to try their fortunes in another country, and open a door for themfelves and friends in a land of liberty and plenty, by a few going this year, 1 77^, and numbers following the next 5 then it was, that thefe gentlemen, with their wonted candour, began to entertain the public with exclaiming againftall emigra- tions in general, with running down a country and its climate, both of which they are equally unacquainted with, and by giving falfe accounts of it, depreciating its produce, its cuftoms, and its trade, though utter Grangers to them all. How eagerly do they catch at any difcou» raging tale, picked up from fome failor or fkipper that has but touched on the coaft of North Carolina, though at a great diftance from our Highland fettlers in that pro- vince, and having never had any intercourfe with them, who wanted both underftanding and opportunity to judge properly of their advantages and mode of living? how ready are they to publifh thefe vague and indiRincl ac- counts, as ample and fat is factory? But all fhip- mafters are not of the fame caft ; fome there are who have pene- trated among the Highland fettlers there, who formerly knew their fituation in their own country, and can do juf- tice to that flate of eafe and happinefs in which they now live. Nay, I am well aware, that fome few among the Highland gentlemen are no ftrangers to the truth of what is reported concerning North Carolina; and that, if they would fpeak out, they know it to be a country no way in- ferior to what it is reprefented. Some of them were offi- cers in America, and our common men fervedas foldiers there during the laft war, and both acquired immortal ho- nour. It would feem as if they had made fuch important conquefts in that quarter of the globe, in order to fecure to themfelves, and their countrymen, an agreeable and happy retreat, and a large and fertile field for them and their pofterity to flourifh in. To fuch as are unprejudi- ced among them, we might appeal for the truth of the moft flattering accounts of North America in general; but, padet hoc opprobrium, they difguife or conceal what they know of it; felf-intereft biafles them, and makes them fupprefs the truth, till it is now too late to do fo; it is in vain to carry on the farce, for the truth will re- main no longer concealed. And now, is there any wonder, if, under their prefent [ II ] difcouraging circum fiances, and confiderzng the dark and gloomy profpeels they have before them at home, that the Highlanders fhould feek for refuge in fome hap- pier land 5 on fome more hofpitable fhore, where freedom reigns, and where, unmolefted by Egyptian tafk-mafters, they may reap the produce of their own labour and indus- try. For this purpofe, where can they better betake 1 them- felves than to the large continent of America, to that part of it efpecialiy, to which fome of their countrymen went fometime ago, where their pofterity ftill live well and in- dependently, and to which, of late, numbers have gone, who (hew no inclination to return; but, on the contrary, fend the moil favourable accounts to their friends and ao quaintance in the Highlands, and the molt preiling invi- tations for them to follow after them acrofs the Atlantic. Here they ftill belong to the Britiin empire, and are happy under the benign influence of its adminiflration. Here, at eafe, they may enjoy all thofe civil bleffings which the nobleft conftitution under heaven was intended to com- municate to all ranks belonging to it, and to make thefe bleflings permanent and fure. In the following pages, I mean to give my country- men a fhort fketch of the province of North Carolina, with regard to its climate, foil, produce, and manner of fettling there, founded upon unquestionable evidence, as well as perfonal obfervation, by which it will appear how little credit is due to the ridiculous and difcouraging ac- counts given in the public papers, at the defire of fome of the land-holders, by which alfo will be fhewn, that of ail our colonies it is the moft proper for Highlanders of any degree to remove to, if they want to live in a ftate of health, eafe, and independence. No circum ftance fhall be exaggerated, as it is not intended to deceive or miflead any perfcn ; the fimple truth fhall be told, and r ** [ X2 J let facts be judged of as they really are. And as no rrwni would chufe to b.e deceived himfelf, nor would any ho- ned man impofe upon others, confcious no charge of this kind can juflly be laid againft me, when I fairly hy before the world, and my countrymen, the prefent filia- tion of that province, in the above refpecTts, by which I candidly own, that I myfelf am fwayed, and led to rifque my all, and fix my refJdence there for life. Whether others fhall follow my example, or whether matters (hall ftrik'e them in the fame light, is what I know not, nor am I much foliqtous about; but, in juftice to a country fo falfely arraigned, fo undefervedly depreciated and ridi- culed, I venture this brief account under the eye of the public, and as it may be fupported by th° concurring tef- timony of many gentlemen of repute and credit who have been among our fettlers in North Carolina, who were at pains to be thoroughly acquainted with their method of fettling, mode of living, and every thing relating to them. To fhew that they have made a happy exchange, and no people can be in more eafy circumftances, or bet- ter fatisfied with their prefent condition, I might appeal to numberlefs letters from thofe very fettlers, to their friends and acquaintance in the Highlands, which may be eafily feen, and might, if neceflary s be produced. In thefe letters, we find parents inviting over children that were left behind, children their parents, hufbands their wives and families, and brothers their filters, all defcrib- in^ their ftate there, as far preferable to what they ever "knew before in every refpecl; and earneftly wifliing their relations and connections of every tender tie would go and partake of the fame happinefs, and no longer remain under home oppreffion. Surely, if thefe people, artlefs and undefigning as they are, could mean to deceive, it muft be reckoned a very uncommon and mod unnatural [ 13 ] deception ; nor will it be eafy to explain how they fhould all confpire in the fame tale, and, without varying, ftum- hle upon the fame favourable accounts. That thefe accounts are genuine and true, we hope, will appear from the following general defcription of the province in queftion, in which all that is intended, is to lay before my countrymen things moft effential for them to know, without launching into the favourite topics of mere travellers, or attending to an exaft form and me- thod, like writers on geography. North Carolina lies between 31 and 36 degrees, and 31 miles N. Lai.. 76 and 19 W. Long, from London on the eaft, it is bounded by the Atlantic ocean, and has about 400 miles of a fea coaft; on the north it boarders with Virginia, and on the fouth with South Carolina; but its boundaries to the weft are unknown and unlimit- ed. It furrounds a part of South Carolina, extending it- Mi\ on that fide, to places as yet imtf iiited, which are in- habited by Indian tribes. The climate is agreeable and whoifome in general; and, compared with the reft of the northern hemifphere, may be looked upon as the moft temperate part of the earth on the north fide of the equa- tor. It agrees, in general, with that of Virginia; but where they differ, it is much to the advantage of Carolina. The fummers are Avarmer than in Virginia; but the win- ters are milder and fhorter; nor are there fuch fudden tranhtions from heat to cold, nor fuch violent extremes as in Virginia. The winters are feldom fevere enough. to freeze any confiderable body of water, and affect only the mornings and evenings, when the air is felt as (harp as in the Highlands; but thefrofts have feldom ftrenrth to refift the noon-day fun; fo that many tender plants, that do not ftand the winter of Virginia, flourifh here. The fey in winter is commonly clear and ferene, and no B -> [ '4 ] deep fnow is to be feen. The climate in fummer is faid, by people of obfervation, to refemble that of Italy and Lifbon, and indeed they lye in pretty near the fame la- titude. Many are made to believe, that in Carolina, as in Jamaica and the Leeward Iflands, the whole year is one continual fummer; but this is a miftake; they have the four revolving feafons as in Britain; the tranfitions to eac!; are gentle and imperceptible. In the months of March April, and May, their fpring, all things are alive; the birds make the wood-iands ring with mirth; and the kingdom of vegetables, under the Divine care, fpringing forth in rich profufion, adorning gardens and meadows with gay and gloving colours; the trees produce their buds and foliage, promifing rich fruits in their appoint- ed feafons ; and no place can exhibite a richer carpet, and more beautiful verdure. The jeffamin, the laurel, the bay, the faffafras, the pines, the honeyfuckle, the dog- wood, and mo it kinds of flirubs, enrich the air with their fragrant odours, and the woods are covered with the greateft variety of flowers and bloffoms. The mariners, going upon the coaft in fpring, have fmelt the pines when feveral leagues at fea. About this time the farmer fees his work begin to profper, and his induftry rewarded. The fummer, which is in the months of June, July, and Auguft, may indeed be called hot; the mercury, in an approved thermometer, keeping up from 70 to 80 degrees at noon. Near the coaft, and in the fandy parts, the heat would be intolerable, were a not for the cool breezes, which come from the fea; but, by not cxpofing the body to the warm fun-beams at noon, a man may always keep himfelf cool and comfortable in the hotieftday; the hou- fes are built airy, fo that they always have a cool room to • go into. Up the country, and on river fides, the warmth is lefs intenfe, the foil being deep and moift, and covered f 15 1 -with verdure; nor does the heat hinder people to travel eafily and comfortably the whole day in fummer, as they go over a level country under the (hade of lofty trees in the woods, which are widely feparated, and clear of un- der-wood. The longeft day in Carolina, the fun rifes at four, and fets after eight. September, October, and November, are the autumn months j the firft of which, together with part of Auguft, are their rainy and windy months; but, in the month of October, there cannot be a more temperate air, and finev climate, than here, the weather being mild and dry fof the fpace of forty or fifty days. In the low and marfhy parts of the country, the inha-. bitants, particularly new-comers, are apt to fall into thofe difeafes incident to a moift climate, efpecially in July and Auguft, when the weather is hotteft, and the air be* comes ftagnant; and, in September, when the weather changes, and the rains fall heavy; then, I fay, they are fubjecl to agues, fluxes, and intermitting fevers; but thefe do not prove mortal; and, in general, it is allowed,, that the inhabitants are not affected by any particular diftemper, except fuch as proceed from intemperance, and a negledt of themfelves upon their firft arrival. The dropfy is very rare; as for confumptions, they are not very deftt u£tive ; perhaps it may carry off a perfon in nine or ten years; and that dreadful complaint, anaflh- ma, is not known, unlefs brought from other places; in which cafe, the climate affords great relief to the afflict- ed. The three remaining months are the winter feafon : the air is ferene, the weather dry and wholefome, and intenfely cold but for a fhoit time; the mercury in the thermometer being all the winter between 30 and 50 de- degrees, and, when carried into the open air, has never been known to fink lower than 20 degrees. The fhort- [ i6 J eft day, the fun rifes half an hour before fix, and fets at five. At this feafon, the country is very agreeable to iportfmen, having plenty of all forts of game in the great- eft perfection; fuch as deer, which are as numerous as flieep in Scotland; wild turkeys, in flocks, throng as rooks or crows, and weighing about thirty pounds, which fhews they are of a large fize; geefeand ducks, of which laft great quantities are taken ; eight or ten, when fitting, is but a middling fhot. There are alfo great quantities of partridges, doves, larks, woodcocks, fnipes, plovers, fend blackbirds, befides a great number of fea fowl ; and in the back woodlands, where the chefnut grows, they have the pheafant and the peacock. This colony is but in a manner in its infancy, and new- ly fettled in refpecT; to its neighbouring ones. There is a £reat coincidence between the foil, produce, and face of "the country with thofe of Virginia; but, in the fertility 'of nature, Carolina has the advantage. In a word, the northern parts of it produce the fame things with the fouthern parts of Virginia, and in greater perfection. The fouthern parts of it produce the fame things with which the northern parts of South Carolina abounds; and, as in the back parts it fldrts or runs along a great part of South Carolina, the produce is much the fame as in that country, and is conveyed by rivers or land carriage to Charleftoun, and other ports of that province for fale. Its commodities and general produce are very valuable, con- fifting of rice, indico, hemp, tobacco, fir, deer fkins, tur- pentine, pitch, tar, raw hides, tanned leather, flower, flax-feed, cotton, corn, peafe, pottatoes, honey, bees- wax, Indian corn, barrelled beef and pork, tallow, butter, ro- fin, fquare timber of different forts, deals, ftaves, and all kind of lumber. This fhort defcription will not admit of entering into the manner in which the above commo- t *7 1 ditles are cultivated; but the late fettlers there from the Highlands are afliduous in their employments; and this, joined with the hofpitality, friendfhip and harmony, that iubfifts among them in genera], from whatever country, cannot fail, in a fhort time, of making the province flou- rifh, and of rewarding their labour with independence and wealth, the offspring of ingenuity and induftry. The province is divided into feveral counties, and in- terfered by many large navigable rivers ; the chief rivers are, Albemarle, Pentaguen, Neufe, Cape Fear or Claren- don, Watere, Santee, Pedee, &c. The only fea border- ing on this coaft is the Atlantic ocean, which is reckon- ed mallow for fhips of burden to come nigh the coaft, ex- cept in few places. The coaft is low land, and the {hal- lows come on gradually, fo that, by founding, it is eafily known when vefTels are near enough, fo as to make for their deftined harbours, which are now found to be equal- ly convenient with the molt noted in other provinces, and they are alfo feateel at proper diitances along the coaft : it is true, that hitherto they have been looked upon as in- commodious, but, from the increafe and goodnefs of the commodities raifed in the colony, fhips begin to find their way with eafe, and many ports are frequented with fhips from a great part of the trading world. The harbours of Roanack and Pimlico are famous and well known: many- others are good and fafe. The moft remarkable promon- tories are Cape Hatteras, in 35 degrees N. Lat. and Cape fear to the fouth of it. At the mouth of the river here, veffels of large burden have ready accefs ; and this is the principal and moft centrical river in the province for trade. From the entrance of Fort-Johnfton to Brunfwick, the former feat of the governors, it is 12 miles up the river^ from thence to Wilmington about 15 miles. Wilming- ton is well fituated for trade, as it lies at the confluence of [ is ] two large branches of Cape Fear river, by which means all commodities from the fouthern and middle parts of the province centre there; confequently it is, of late, be- come a place of elegance and wealth : there are many e- minent merchants there, and much (hipping from the neighbouring colonies, from the Weft Indies and Bri- tain; fo that, for commerce, and a wellfurnifned market of all neceffaries, it is at prefent reckoned the moft flou- rifhing; and is frill greatly increafing. Here the river is as broad as the Thames at London. The north-wefl branch of this river, along which I travelled, is navi- gable about 40 miles above Wilmington for large vef- fels; but long boats, lighters, and large canoes, carry- goods for above 100 miles farther up. On this north- wefl branch of the fame river, lies Crofs Creek, or New Campbletoun, about 100 miles diflant from Wilmington In the courfe of the river. This town is fituated in Cum- berland county, and the inhabitants moftly Highlanders, emigrants from Argylefhire, and the weftern ides, are fettled in faid county. The land, in general, along the fea coiift, is light and fandy, and promifes little in appear- ance to a flranger; it is, however, of a generous nature, and helped by a kindly fun, yields corn and tobacco ex- tremely well, and, when flooded, yields rice plentifully. But, along the fides of rivers and creeks, there is a fine black mold, and rich foil, for about a mile and a half back from either bank of the river, which, without manure, returns plentifully whatever is committed to it. This good foil fpreads ftill wider, and improves continually, as you advance in'-o the country, and then it is uniform- ly good and fertile for immenfe tracts of land. The whole country is in a manner one foreft, where our planters have not cleared it. And at a too miles from the lea, where it begins to grow hilly, and mixed with rifing grounds, [ l 9 J the foil is of an amazing fertility, fitted for ever purpofe of human life. Nor can any thing be imagined more pleafant to the eye, than the variegated appearance of this back coun~ „fry. The air is here pure and wholefome, and the heat in iummer much more temperate than on the flat fandy'coa [fo It is diversified in the moil agreeable manner, with arable lands, meadows, and woods; here and there appear riling hills; and its forefts abound with excellent timber, fucri as oak of feveral forts, Cyprus, hickory, the pine, the wal- nut, theafh, the poplar, the beech, the elm, the fycamore s the laurel, the bay, the gum, and the mulberry, with many others not mentioned. This furriifhes the inhabitants with plenty of fire-wood, and the beft of timber for (hip-build- inp- and other ufes. The woods in general wear a refrefh- ing verdure through the year: and the earth is rendered O CD J rich and delightful by the fine rivers and dreams which glide through them. Where I travelled, the banks of the .tvers from Wilmington to far above Crofs Creek, were agreeably adorned with fine feats, villas, and pleafant farm-houfes, a£ moderate distances, on either fide, which afforded a moft enchanting fcene of the eafe and happinefs which the pre- fent fettlers enjoy: and, in general, mod; of the prefent planters may be laid to have a river at their door, and an eafy conveyance for their commodities to market. The land in Carolina is eafily cleared, as there is little or no under-wood, and the woods -moftly confift of tall treesj at a considerable diftanee; and, by the different fpecies of thefe, the quality of the foil is eafily known. The grounds which bear thecal:, the walnut, and the hickory, are reckon- ed the beft; they are of a dark fand intermixed with loam= The pine barren is worfl, being almoft ail fand; yet it bears the pine tree, and feme ufeful plants, naturally yielding -rood profit, in pitch, tar. and turpentine. When this foi t ■of land is cleared, which is done very eafily, it produces, G [ 2° ] for two or three years together, very good crops of Indian corn and peafe; and, when it lies low, and i3 flooded, it anfwers for rice. Their low rich fwampy grounds bear rice, which is one of their ftaple Commodities. It is, as before obferved, that on the fides of the rivers, all the good tim- ber, and large ufeful trees, are found in abundance; behind thefe ftretches of good land, the country is covered with pines and firs, from which tar, turpentine, and rofin arc made, and for which articles there is a fund inexhauitible for many years. In the forefts, the trees a're far feparate, as I obferved, and free of fhrubs and under- wood; they are lofty, and very ftraight, fo that a perfon may ride through them, in any direction, without danger or inconveniency. I have ken the inhabitants hunting foxes, bears, and deer, through the woods, galloping very hard. Nothing furprifes an European more, at fir ft fight, than the fize of the trees here, and in other American colonies. Their trunks are often from 50 to 70 feet high, without a limb or branch, and frequently above 30 feet in circumference, ot which the natives audlndians make canoes, fome of them fo large, that they will carry 30 or 40 barrels of pitch, though form- ed of one entire piece of timber. Curious pleature- boats are likewife made of thefe. Vegetation is amazingly quick in this province; the foil, in general, will produce moll things; the climate has fomething fo kindly, that the foil, when left to itfelf, throws out an immenfe quantity of flow* ers and flowering fhrubs. All kinds of European grain grow there, fuch as barley, wheat, oats and rye, clover and iucern grafs. Plants from Europe arrive at perfection here, be- yond what they do in their native country. Wine and iiiks with proper culture, might be had here. For variety of roots and herbs, I believe, it rivals any country. The faflafras, farfaparilla, the China root, the Indian pink, the golden rod, the horoun, and the fnake root of various forts, are [ ~-l ] natives here, and found fcattered through the woods, toge- ther with other medicinal and aromatic herbs. There is a kind of tree, from which runs an oil of an extraordinary virtue for curing of wounds, and another that yields a balm thought to be little inferior to that of Mecca. Eefides thefe, there are other trees that yield gums, liquorice, rhubarb; and other phyfical roots are found to thrive extremely well.. The power of vegetation has been found fo great, that a peach tree will bear in three years after putting of the Hone into the ground. The fig-tree will bear two crops in the year, of large and lufcious fruit. Melons, the Canada peach, and the white common peach, grow well and large, as do grapes, and all kinds of fruit, (except currants, goofe- berries, and the red cherry) from the fmall cherry to the large melon, nothing can be more lufcious. The fruit here has fuch a delicious flavour, that they who once tafte of it, will defpife the watery tafte of that in Britain, where fruit- trees are not natural to the foil. Prodigious quantities of honey are found here, of which they make excellent ipirits, and mead as good as Malaga fack. It is incredible to think what plenty of fifh is taken both in their fait and frefh wa- ter rivers, which fifher-men fell for a trifle. The fifh moll admired are the whiting, the angel fifh, the king fifh, the fat-back, the forgey, the frefh water trout, and the rock fifh. Neither herring, turbot, or falmon, can exceed thefe in richnefs and delicious tafte. Oyfters too of a fine fla- vour are got in the rivers, and on the coaft. With all thefe kinds of fifh the market at Wilmington abounds. Here, one may buy all kinds of meats, from the fquirrel and o- pofum to the bullock, and all very good, nothing in Eng- land coming up to their pork. Beef and pork is fold from id. to 2d. a pound, their fatteft pullets at 6d. a piece, chickens at 3 s. a dozen, geefe at rod. turkeys at 18 d, a piece. But fifh and wild fowl are kill cheaper in C 2 [ 22 J their feafons; and deer are fold from 5 to 10s. a piece. Met chants in the town, and confiderable planters in the country, are now beginning to have a taite lor living, and feme gay equipages may be feen; they are generous, well bred, and drefs much ; are polite, humane, and hofpitable; and never tired of rendering ftrangers all the fervice in their power: nor is this mere pageantry and fhew; their beha- viour at home is confident with their appearance abroad. Their houfes are elegant, their tables always plentifully co- vered, and their entertainment fumptuous. They are fond of company, living very iociabie and neighbourly, vifiting one another often. Poverty is almoftan entire ftrangera- mong them, as the fettlcrs are the moil hofpitable and cha- ritable people that can be met with to all ftrangers, and e- fpecially to fuch as by accident or misfortunes are render- ed incapable to provide for themfelves. The method of fettling in Carolina, is to find out a fpace of King's land, or unpatented land, and to get an order from the governor, which order is given tp a furyeyorj when the furvey is finifhed, he clraAvs a plan of that fpace of land, which plan is returned into the office for record- ing patents, &c. then he gets his patent or right figsed bv the governor, which is good for ever after; the expence of all this is commonly about ten guineas, and fometimes not fo much : fuppofmg the run of land taken up be 640 acres, only there is 2 s. and 6d. quit rents paid yearly for the hundred acres. Befides the Highlanders that arc fettled in Cumberland county, fome late emigrants have betaken themfelves to Anfon county, which abounds in good ground. In thefe counties, former fettlers difpofe of plantations, with fome open ground upon them, to new-comers, and retire farther back into the country. Plantations of about 3 Quarters of a mile fquare, have been fold for between 40 and 50 1, [ 23 ] which produce indico, tobacco, cotton, rice, wheat, Indian corn, barley, rye, and oats, without ever being dunged; for, as all the land abounds with nitre, it is a long time before it is exhaufted, and they ufe no manure. I have been in- formed, that if a fettler can keep three fervants or negroes clearing his grounds for two years, he may fell 700 bufhels of wheat, and 5000 weight of tobacco for every year after- wards, befides many other articles. Two men and four hor-. fes will work a large plantation in their befh land, after cleared. They often plow with one horfe. Wheat is fown in October and November, and fome in March. They plant Indian corn and tobacco between April and May. Some lands give three crops in the year. They fow flax-feed the firft of March, which they pull the fir ft of May, then they plant the ground with corn, which is ripe the latter end o£ September, and then fow it with turnip for the winter, which grow very large. The worft growth of Indian corn in good land is 200 bufhels for every bufhel fown, the bed betwixt 4 and 500 for one. The fowing of 2 or 3 bufhels of this grain is as much as any planter can attend to; for, in fum- mer, it muft be plowed and howed 2 or 3 times, to keep down the weeds, efpecially in fat ground. Settlers of any fubltance, when they go over, commonly take up a piece of ground of 640 acres, or a mile fquare in the plains, or on river fides. At the back of thefe fettlements it is all a, common, that is unpatented, or King's lands, till you come nigh another river or creek. The commons are moftly hilly~ and unbroken ground, and not likely to be foon occupied or taken up ; fo that the cattle of the neighbouring plantations and farms feed and wander over large trails without interfer- ing with any body's property, and they are not reftricted to any number. I may here obferve, that there were neither horfes, cows, fheep, or hogs, in America, till carried thither by the Europeans; and now they are multiplied fo extreme- [ ^4 ] Jy, that many of them are allowed to run wild in fome provinces, Hsre the fettlers have plenty of all European animals. To have 2 or 300 cows is very common; fome have 1000 and upwards. I knew a few planters who had 500 calves in a feafon, and fome have more. In the months of May, June, and July, they gather all their cattle into one place on the great common; they range all day at pleafure through the foreft; but the calves are feparated, and kept in fenced paftures. In thefe months they make their butter and cheefe, and mark all their young cattle, (for each has a particular mark given him by the province, and this mark is recorded) and then they arc turned loofe into the common again till that time twelve months, ex- cept a few milk cows for their families. The cattle here are of a tame breed; and if any of them fhould Itray 100 miles, they are advertifed, and returned to the owner, being known by the mark; fo that few of them are loft. Their fize is larger than that of any cows in the High- lands; fat ones weigh well, and give a good price. It is computed, that from this province there are annually drove to Virginia about 30000 head of black cattle, without men- tioning hogs, befides large quantities fold to veffels in their own ports, together with great cargoes of beef, pork, live flock, and all forts of grain, conftantly fent to the Bahama ifles and the Weft Indies. The whole expence of taking up fuch a run of land as I have mentioned, I mean 640 acres for a plantation to a new fettler, will not exceed 10 gui- neas, between patent, furveyor, and the different offices; a genteel treat is all that is often taken. The moft of their labour and toil, then, confifts in opening and clearing their grounds, which, as I have obferved, is not fuch a heavy cr laborious work, as the trees are far afunder, and there are few fhrubs, and no under-growth, and the nature of the foil is loofe, and free of ftones or any rocks. If one gets 70 t 2J ] or 3 3 acres once opened upon his plantation, it is fufficient for the fupport and employment of any fingle family. Young healthy negroes are bought there for between 25 &nd 40 1. Five of thefe will clear and labour a plantation the firfh year, fo as you fhall have every thing in abundance for your family, with little trouble to yourlelf, and be able to fpare many articles for market; to which every year a- gain,as the ground advances in being cleared, you may fend great quantities of flower, flax-feed, indico, rice, butter, tallow, peafe, potatoes, live ftock, pork, beef, and tobacco. And I cannot help mentioning here, the happinefs in which blacks live in this and moil of the provinces of America, compared to the wretchednefs of their condition in the fu- car iflands. Good ufage is what alone can make the negroes well attached to their mailers intereft. The inhabitants of Carolina, fenfible of this, treat thefe valuable fervants in an indulgent manner, and fomething like rational beings. They have fmall houfes or huts, like peafants, thatched, to which they have little gardens, and live in families fepa- rated from each other. Their work is performed by a daily talk allotted by their mailer or overfeer, which they have generally done by one or two o'clock in the afternoon, and have the reft of the day for themfeives, which they fpend in working in their own private fields, confifting of 5 or 6 acres of ground, allowed them by their mafters, for plant- ing of rice, corn, potatoes, tobacco, &c. for their own ufe and profit, of which the induftrious among them make a great deal. In iome plantations, they have alio the liberty to raife hogs and poultry, which, with the former articles, they are to ditpoie of to none but their mafters (this is done to prevent bad confequences) for which, in exchange, when they do not chufe money, their mafters give Ofnaburgs, ne- gro cloths, caps, hats, handkerchiefs, pipes, and knives. They do not plant in their fields for ftibfiftence, but for a- r =6 i mufemenr, pleafure, and profit, their matters giving therri clothes, and fuflicient provifions from their granaries. The immenfe incrcafe of India coin furnifhes plenty for hogs and horfes. The breed of horfes here is much the fame with that of Virginia, hardy and fpirited ; they eafily break to the faddle, and are bred to pacing; and, as the country is level.) and free of (tones, and the roads foft and good, they per- form great journies in the day, and travel pleafantly. A horfe that would give 12L in Britain, may be bought at 8 1. and fo in proportion to their fize and value. From 4 to 61. is a common price for a working horfe Every planter has abundance of fheep of an excellent kind, which bear good wool ; the new emigrants fpin and drefs it, and get it made into courfe cloths and kerfeys for their common wear : this manufacture muft rife in time. The new emigrants fettling up the country are far more induftrious than the old fettlers or natives; they may live as well and happy as lairds at home. It is computed by people of judgment and obferva- tion, that if a perfon can carry 500 1. cafh with him into that country, he may live as eaiiiy as a proprietor of 500 1. a-year in Sc tland, as to the neceffarics and conveni- ences of life, and fo in proportion -to the flock he car- ries over, and his prudence and management in laying it out. It is not pretended, that they, all at once, can en- ioy life in the fame tafte and elegance as they do in Scot- land. Mean time they have abundance, nay affluence, and enjoy independence, which, we all know, is a grea: fweet- ener of life and every bleffing, and makes up for many hi- perfluous refinements in what is called polite fociety; and it is univerfaily allowed that the civil arts of life foon take place, and flourifh, where mankind become numerous, and are bleffed, at once, with affluence, independence and cafe; many of the old refidenters in the inland counties of this province finding themfelves foon eafyand independent, and [ 27 I being far feparated, and not linked together by country, or a clofe neighbourhood, have become idle, lazy, and much devoted to fport and hunting; and, perceiving that many new fettlers are, of late, come among them, they forefee that the deer and other game mull, confequently, become fcarcer; and ihey have, in general, little inclination to min- gle with the new-comers, who now arrive in fuch crouds; they alfo know, that the iarther they go back into the coun- try, the land turns richer and better; on thefe accounts, they willingly quit and fell their prefent fettlements along the rivers, and neareiithe coaft, to new-comers, fome of them induced, merely, by the love of hunting, others from pru- dential confiderations, becaufe of the fertility and pleafant- nefs of the country backwards, and the eafe with which it may be wrought and cleared. One of thefe plantations, con- fiding of 640 acres, and 70 or 80 acres of it clear, with a good maniion-houfe,and all necelTary office-houfes upon it, may be purchafed for 1 60 1. 1 have feen one of not much lefs extent bought for 60 h and the very nrft year the purchafer made 1 1 hogfheads of brandy of the peaches and apples in hi3 garden, and fome cyder, befides what he difpofed of in cat- tle, grain, and live Hock. Here a poor man need not fear the want of meat or employment, moft victuals being very cheap. From the granaries, on the farms, a man for 6d. Sterl. may buy what will maintain him 8 days, at 3 meals a-day; and, if he carries over with him, as much coarle cloth and linnen, as will ferve him for a year or two, he needs not doubt of foon being well fixed, and at eafe for vhe reft of his life. A friend of mine, a few years ago, earned over paffengers tq Cape Fear ; among thefe there were many poor people unabie to pay for their paffage, who therefore went as redemptioners ; that is, if in 40 days after landing,, th : j ycould not find money among their friends or acquaint- ance, or by fome ihift of their own, to pay for their paifage, D t 28 ] they were then bound to ferve for 3 years after landing ; there was none of them but relieved themfclves before the time; many of them having no friend or acquaintance in the place, got people there to take them by the hand, and pay for their paffage, and foon fixed them in fuch a man- ner, as that they had plenty to live on: the prefent fitua- tion of the colony will eafily account for this ; a number of the firft fettlers there, and of the late emigrants, who have made any confiderable purchafe, have large traces of land lying wafte and uncleared for want of hands; they have a good part of a plantation open, with fome fervants and ne- groes upon it, by which they raife great ftores of provifi- ons, and they have plenty of cattle; the owner of an eftate, that has 80 or 90 acres open upon it, has a fcope of many hundreds, fome of thoufands of acres, equally good with his open ground, but not cleared for want of hands ; thefe fettlers are continually on the watch for new emigrants, and engage as many of them as they can to fix upon lome of their wood-lands, for clearing part of them; thefe are fupplied with plenty of provifions the firft 1 2 months, and have permiffion to fell as much tar, turpentine, and ftaves, as they pleafe, for their own ufe; they are furnifhed with all im- plements for clearing the ground, and improving it; negroes are often given them to affift them ; then they get fo many milk-cows,fo many hogs to breed,&c. they fow Indian corn and other grain for their own ufe; their tafk is to attend to the rearing of cattle, and breeding of hogs, and to take care that they clear, properly, as much ground as they and their families, with the affiftance of negroes, are able; for their trouble, they have from the owner the 3d part of whatever the land fo cleared produces, the 3d bufhel of whatever grain, the 3d calf, the 3d pig, &c. This is a great fpur to their diligence, and an ample reward for their toil, which is far from fevere, and foon puts the new-comer in condi- t 29 -J tion to plant lands for himfelf ; and he frequently gets free land of his own from his mailer, contiguous to the eftate he Las wrought upon; fo that in a few years, a poor man, with a throng family, may work himfelf into affluence, and lands of his own, and have plenty wherewith to flock it at once, and with little trouble may increafe it every year. From all which it is plain, that no perfon can be in want for any time; nor are beggars or vagrants to be feen in that coun- try. The pooreft fet of people whom I faw there, are fuch as ply as failors, or watermen rather, on boats and lighters, up and down the rivers : they are generally drunkards, and can be of little ufe in any other way ; yet thefe get half-a- crown a-day, and 3 gallons of rum per week. Upon the whole, it is the bell country in the world for a poor man to go to, and do well. The fettlers far back in the province, who are at a diftance from a river, fend their goods for mar- ket in large waggons to the town of Crofs Creek, where, may be feen 40 or 50 of them in a day, and thefe waggons belong to the planters themfelves. At this place, the mer- chants of Wilmington have flores and agents to buy and lay up the goods; and they are conveyed by water to Wil- mington in this manner: thefe merchants, or the fettlers along the river, make large rafts of timber, as is common in Holland; upon thefe they lay their beef, pork, and nower 9 in barrels, alfo their live flock, Indian corn, raw hydes, but- ter, tallow, and whatever they have for market : boats and canoes always accompany thefe rafts : on thefe, again, are brought up the river whatever goods are taken in exchange. The planters difpofe of their goods to merchants in town, or to fhips at Wilmington, where there are many now from Britain, the Weillndies, and the different colonies ; to thefe they fell their goods, and, in return, bring back fugar, rum, fait, iron, &c. and the reft in cafh. The credit of the High- landers; though but lately gone thither, is as good with the [ 3* ] merchants at Wilmington as that of the oldeft fettlers ifi the province, as they find them punctual and indudrious; and, for all goods brought down the river, there is com- monly a quick fale, in barter of goods, or in ready mo- ney. As in every rifmg colony, fo in this, tradefmen are much wanted; and the demand for them muftincreafe in proportion to the number of fettlers that refort to it. Ac- cordingly, at prefent, tradefmen of all kinds have the greatei't encouragement here; thofe moll in requeft, are mill-wrights, coopers, wheel-wrights, houfeand (hip-car- penters, black-fmiths. Here farmers would get good em- ployment; fullers, dyers, and flocking- weavers, are much wanted. The fh.ip-carpenr.ers get 13s. per day; the coo- per half-a- crown for every barrel he makes; the taylor from 30 to 40s. for the bare making of a fuit of clothes; the (hoe-maker from 5 to 6s. for making a pair of (hoes; wrights and mafons 5 s. a-day; weavers get every 4th yard for working either woollen or linen cloth, and fo on. To enter into more particulars would require a volume. To fuch of my countrymen as incline to emigrate to this country, I would point out the month of Auguft as the fit- ted time for their leaving home, by which means they reach there in the feafon of mod plenty: they have the winter 2lfo before them to work at clearing of ground, and naturalizing themfelves to the climate, which for them is mod dangerous, as I faid, when the heat of fummer, and the rainy feafon comes ; the complaints mod common there, are fluxes, fevers, and agues. Upon their arrival a- mong their friends and countrymen in North Carolina, Highlanders are kindly received, and fumptuoufiy enter- tained, with a variety of rich and freih meats, and the bed of drink. The ferenity of the air creates a keen appetite, and the generality of new-comers, after a long confine- ment during their voyage thither, and not being ufed to [ 31 1 fuch luxurious fare, are apt to indulge themfelves too much, tempted by fuch good living, and delicious fruits as abound there, which fometimes produce bad confequences. I would therefore offer them a caution, and recommend temperance and abftemioufnefs to them for the flrfl feafon, till, by de- grees, they are inured to the place; and thus, by ufing gentle exercife, and living moderately, they will efcape the hazards that people run by a change of climate ; and, when once naturalized to it, they are in no danger, but may be out late or early, travel by night or day, go the fame lengths, and ufe the fame freedoms, they were accuftomed to at home, and with equal fafety. I have now finifhed the general fketch which I propofed to give of this province to my countrymen, from which, though not arranged in an exa£t, and regular order, I flatter myfelf,itwjll appear to them abundantly inviting in refpect to climate, foil, produce, and manner of fettling there. Here we fee, that a man of fmall fubftance, if upon a precarious footing at home, can, at once, fecure to himfelf a hand- fome, independent living, and do well for himfelf and po- fterity. The poorer! man, if he can but work, procures, at once, plenty of fubfiftence, which grows yearly upon his hands, until, by gentle and agreeable labour, he arrives, at laft, at a ftate of affluence and eafe. None of either fex or profeflion need fear the want of employment, or an ample reward and encouragement in their different oc- cupations and callings. All modes of Chriftian worfhip, not detrimental to fociety, are here tolerated, as in the o- ther royal governments in North America. The church of England is the eftablifhed religion; but the Prefbyte- rians are moft numerous; and divines of that order might here find decent livings; lawyers and phyficians are here refpe£t.ed; profeflbrs of the fciences are as yet few; teach- ers of youth are much careffed, and wanted. A rifing co* [ 3* 1 lony is always reckoned a proper field for the honeft, in- duflrious merchant to profper. Tradefmen, mechanics, and labourers of all forts, have here an ample range be- fore them : hither then they may repair, and no longer re- main in a ftarving and grovelling condition at home: they may haften acrofs the Atlantic, and carry over with them fome remains of the true old. Britifh fpirit before it be totally vitiated and extinguifhed : thither let them im- port their yet generous and liberal fentiments : let them tranfport thither the polite arts and fciences, that they may grow up and flourifli in a happier clime, and under more benign Ikies. Here each may fit fafe, and at eafe, undexJiis own fig-tree, indulging himfelf in the natural bent of his genius, in patronizing the ufeful arts of life, and in pra&ifing the virtues of humanity. In a word, let the Highlanders only compare the fituation of the coun- try they now live in, to the country of which I have given them but a rude and imperfect draught, and then, if they can, let them long hefitate about the choice they are to make. Portalkaig in May,? SC0 TUS AMERICANS Mayz4th, 1773. > THE EN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA THE COLLECTION OF NORTH CAROLINIANA VCC917 SU3i