EUROPEAN LEAFLETS,
FOR
YOUNG LADIES
BY EVANGELINE
FIRST SERIES.
NEW-YORK:
JOHN !• . BALDWIN', PKIN'TKK, 114 FULTON ST.
18 61.
FjiTKRKD, according U' Act of Congress, in tho year ISfil, by
A . E . NEWMAN,
ill ihr ri.rk'H Offlte ot the District Court of the United states for the South.-rn
District of New York.
PREFACE
The Rev. Mr. Newman, whose recent letters from
abroad have been so generally read and commended in our
religious newspapers, was accompained on the tour by
his excellent lady. He had long wished to visit Europe,
and especially the lands of the Prophets, Apostles, and the
World's Redeemer — a journey, not desired from recreation
or mere curiosity, but to improve his mind for greater use-
tulness in his sacred duties and calling. This cherished
wish he was able to gratify from the Christian affection
and Kberality of the Bedford Street Methodist Episcopal
Church — a sacred and hallowed spot — where his ministerial
labors had been so much blessed. So, too, the fees from the
-'Hard Knot,'' (marriage) which often had been tied by
him, and is referred to in the first chapter, enabled Mrs.
X , the authoress, to be the fellow-traveler of his
vovages and journeys.
Few teachings are more pleasing, or profitable, than
those of travel ; aiid readers are not likely to be interested
in anv scenes which have not been strongly impressed upoit
IV PKEKACK.
the writer's own mind. The brief descriptions here given
arise from a lasting remembrance of them, and we doubt
n«»t will be a source of ])leasure and profit to those who
penise them. It i.s tiie >;tu(lieil wish of the authoress to
act as a pleasant guide through those regions she passed
over, and so striking and rich in beautiful scenery, and im-
pH'Stfive histories. Her friends have urged the publication
(if this volume, to l)<* followed by two others — "Leaflets,"
trom France, (xerniauy, and Switzerland — and "Leaflets"
of Italy, glorious, classic Tialy ! It is high lime that
fashionable story books, with bad magazine reading, now
su universal, should be laid aside for the more valuable
study of travels and history. The l)est way to accomplish
this noble object, is to increase the taste for elegant, truth-
ful literature, made attractive In' the hand of genius and
pieiy.
The autiioress will not venture to offer any apology for
th<- itiij)erfecliuns of the "Leaflets," her first work. Such
as it is, she commends the volume to the improvement of
her readers, and the blessings of heaven. May some good
ae(omj»any these pages, which the angels shall gather for
th«^ gainer of the skies!
(I. P. D.
Tht Cluc»\ Stattn Island,
CtfRlSTMAS. 1861.
C N T E N T S
IVV.E
CHAPTER 1. — Kmbarkatiox, 7
ir. — Ocean YoYAGE, 12
" III. — Isle of Wigjit. .... o^
" IV. — Isle of "Wight to London, - - 36
" V. — British Museum and St. Paul's, - 47
" VI.- -First Sabbath in London — Weslev's
Grave — Westminster Abbey, - 58
" VII. — The Parks and To^er of London, - 71
" VIII.— Academy of Arts— Mad. Tussaud's Gal-
lery — City Road Chapel — St. Paut's, 85
" IX. — Windsor Castle — Herschel's Grave —
Gray's Elegy — An English Family, 1 00
X.— roMB oe Thomson — Pope's Grotto —
Hampton Court Palace — Crystal
Palace, Ill
" XI. — Whitfield's Chapel — London Docks —
Green\\-ich Observatory — National
Gallery — Bunhill Fields Blrial
Grounds, J25
() N 1 i: N T -
C11APTP:R XII.— a PRAYEa-MEETiN(i— .-^kein., tue Qieen
ANJ) Royal Family, - - - 1-il
XIII.— Leaving London— Trip to Edinburgh, 148
XIV. — Gheen Cemetery — Arthur's Seat — Mel-
rose Abuey — Dryijurgh Abbey and
Abbotsfori), - - 17 1
XY. — Jediurgii Abbey — Kelso Abbey — Ros-
LiN CiiAi'EL — Northern Scotland, 1h6
XVI. — Ireland — Giant's Causeway — Belfast
— DruMN. 197
f;iU0))iea» ^tuiUH
CHAPTER I.
E il B A R K A T I N
Saturday, JA/y 5lh.
The clay dawned charmingly — we were up
bright and early, for at eleven o'clock A.M.
the steamer w\as to sail. I paused a moment
as I looked from the window, to reflect if our
plans were all complete. The two j^ears that
had glided so rapidly and pleasantly away,
and had closed so gloriously, came up before
me sparkling with the precious jewels that
had been added to the Church, that might at
one day shine in our crowns of rejoicing.
The last '' hard knot " had been tied, the
darling fees of which had constructed a
golden bridge that spanned the wide Atlantic,
and ran with me over many miles of the Old
World.
The foundation on which Mr. N had
builded hopes to climb where " Moses stood
1
8 LEAFLETS.
and view the landscape o'er," had been made
firm by his friends, who had placed in it a
sure corner-stone on which was engraven in
golden letters, one thousand dollars. The
passports were secured, the note of credit
made out, the tickets purchased, the eflects
of house-keeping all stowed away, and the
happy home at the parsonage transferred to
others. We had received the blessing of our
angel mother, also a golden tolcen from our
fiiends in A , where we had spent two
happy years. All is complete, thought I, and
had just drawn up my bow and was watching
the arrow flying into the future to strike af-^-*
target away off in Europe, when I remem-i^2
bered that my limited wardrobe and the
choice paraphernalia I had selected as neces-
sary for such a journey was not yet packed,
and a decree had gone forth that one small
trunk and carpet-bag must contain all I was
to carry w^ith me. It has been asserted by
many of the '' lords of creation " that the ladies
usually carry about half, if not more, of their
traveling expenses in huge trunks; for my
part, I was willing and even anxious to refute
this idea. How closely did Mrs. H and
EMBARKATION. 9
myself crowd all into that dear little trunk
and one carpet-bag ! But alas for the valise
which Mr. N had imagined would hold
all he wished to carry. By the way, it is also
said that gentlemen have to take but very
little with them when they travel ; however,
when the valise was packed and crowded to
its utmost capacity, it was minus, I reckon,
some forty or fifty books, and many other ar-
ticles that would have coaxed themselves into
my little trunk had it not been locked and
strapped securely. Another trunk was im-
mediately ordered, and well filled, making us
at this time equal in the baggage line.
At a few moments past ten o'clock the car-
riages drove to the door. We took an affec-
tionate leave of our noble lady, Mrs. B ,
who had in her unceasing kindness been next
to our own dear mother. Our friend Mr.
D , and some other members of the family,
took seats with us in the carriage, and away
we drove. It was only a few moments and
we were safely on the noble steamer Vander-
hilt^ where we were greeted by a host of
friends who had gathered there to see us off.
Owing to the low tide we were detained for
10 LEAFLETS.
several hours, and did not leave until nearly
four o'clock P. M. The time, hcjwever, was
delightfully spent, chatting with this one and
that one who were i)recious to our hearts' best
aflbctions hy many acts of love, and who in
these moments were breathing a thousand
kind wishes for our safety and success. At
last came the sound of the warning bell, and
with it the shout '^ all ashore." Farewell,
love's last watchword, trembled on every lip
as we parted. In a moment more the steamer
was loosed, and we were moving slowly but
gracefully away.
Crowds thronged the wharf, among which
the waving of " woman's token " looked like
snow-ilakes in Autumn ; while stouter hearts
and louder voices gave out round after round
of hearty cheers. Those on board smiled
amid their tears, and bowed and waved grate-
ful adieux. Our ship returned the compli-
ments ol' the hour l)y a parting salute from
the gun on Ijoard.
As we sailed out of the beautiful bay of
New York we watched the crowd until they
mingled in the busy throng. Still how de-
votedly we looked until every spire and
EMBARKATION. 11
dome faded from our view ; nor did we turn
our wishful gaze till the very shadows of the
last dim outline of the narrow point of land
that stretches far out into the sea was lost to
sight.
The sky was hung with the mellow, sub-
dued coloring of approaching twilight, span-
gled by a few fading beams of the setting sun,
as we bade adieu to our own native land.
CHAPTER II.
C E A N \ (> V A G E .
Let us tui'ii now to our "life on the ocean
wave, and our home on the rolling deep."
We had not heen out long when we were sum-
moned to the dining saloon ; but, strange as
it may appear. I can not recall any thing that
occurred after we went down, or any thing
that was served at the dinner. I only remem-
ber we were furnished with seats at the cap-
tain's table. Very soon we were on deck
again, looking at the ocean, whose bosom was
as cahu as that of a sleeping infant's. Some
were promenading rapidly to and fro, the
length of the deck ; others had already re-
tired to their rooms ; while a few sat pen-
sively, as I did, looking down- into the clear
depths below. Such a calm, undisturbed twi-
light, the hrst ever witnessed b}^ me at sea,
seemed peculiarly fitted for retlection. What
an eventful day was closing ! which appeared
OCEAN VOYAGE. 13
like a whole volume in life's history, in which
eveiy hour had wrought pages, and the mo-
ments had drawn the lines. Recollections
and anticipations, in rapid alternation, began
to crowd upon my mind, when the calm spirit
of the evening touched the electric chord and
whispered to my heart, bringing back with a
strange and winning power, departed years
and childhood's days in all their bloom and
fi*eshness — thoughts that had long slumbered
awakened, with a thousand fond associations,
dear familiar faces wreathed with gay
smiles, or tears appeared from their hidden
depths ; while ever and anon I seemed to
hear sweet voices greeting me, as visions
bright and sad came trooping through mem-
ory's vista. The past was thus looming up be-
fore me richly ladened witli treasured joys and
burdened with but few sorrows, when Mr.
N came up and offered me his arm, say-
ing we must go to our rooms, as it was be-
coming quite damp. I looked up, surprised
to see that it was dark, and that the little
stars had begun to look out of their ethereal
windows down upon us, as if to assure us that
our wise mother nature does not extinguish
14 LEAFLETS.
all her lights when she lets tall the curtain of
night which hides the king of day, and at the
same time silences all voices in the great
world-house without. How still was every
thing around us, not a sound reached our ear
except the voices of the few that remained on
deck, or those who, like ourselves, were pass-
ing in two by two into our ark of safety for
the night. As we entered, I could but remark
that our little state-room really looked cosy ;
but, somehow, I have always had a dislike to
those kind of beds where one above the other
we were to stretch our wearied limbs ; and
then there was something ominous in those
two mysterious little semi-circular green
painted tins with hooks attaching them to
the heads of our berths, which I tried to be-
lieve would be of no use to me.
After reading the Bible, and asking Him
whose eyelids never close to w%atch over us,
we extinguished our little lamp and retired,
with a still small voice whispering to us that
He who rules the winds and the waves loved
us as his children. The lights were put out
in the saloons at eleven o'clock, but my eyes
refused to close in sleep. It was a strange
OCEAN VOYAGE. 15
night to me, cradled on the heaving bosom of
" Old Ocean," and rocked by the gentle winds ;
still, very much like a stubborn child, I either
could not or would not sleep until near day-
dawn.
Sutulay MoDiing. — I awoke after having
enjoyed what seemed to me only a little
''cat nap" — it was so brief; and then
when I opened my eyes and raised my head,
it was only to feel a strange, unpleasant sen-
sation, with fearful forebodings of '' unsettled
accounts." I arose and began to dress, hop-
ing that going out on deck, in the open air,
it might pass off. I had not been standing-
long, when, instead of passing off, it seemed
intuitively to pass right into that little green
tin still hanging on my berth. Right heartily
had I laughed the day before on hearing some
one ask if these green things were life-pre-
servers. Alas ! I began now to think they
were life depositors. Mr. N had been
invited to preach in the saloon at half-past
ten o'clock, and already I heard the sweet
singing. After awhile I managed to get up,
and found a large and interesting congre-
gation assembled in the upper saloon, in
16 L E A F L E T S .
the centre of which stood a table covered
with our national tlag, with the stars and
stri[)es gloriously dis])hiyed ; and on it lay a
Bi])le and several Books of Common Prayer.
Mr. L read the service, and Mr. N
preached. All listened, as if impressed that
it was an hour of heartfelt worship. As soon
as the exercises closed, nearly all went on
deck to breathe the fresh air. The morning
was surpassingly lovely, worthy, indeed, to
be called one of the days of the Son of Man.
The waters surrounded us like a vast un-
known expanse, over which our gallant
steamer was gliding in queenly pride and
beauty.
While on deck, the attention and sympa-
thies of many were enlisted at the sight of a
little weary wanderer, with drooping wing,
which the zephyrs of the previous night had
wafted along after us. " !" exclaimed one,
in poetic rapture, " it may be a bird of pas-
sage sent to bring under its tiny wing a
precious missive for some of us from loved
ones we have left behind." Not thus, but
like the '' ark dove," it was seeking a resting
place for the sole of its foot. Noah like, one
OCEAN VOYAGE. IT
of the gentlemen reached out his hand and
took it in, when it became an object of great
cm^osity ; but very soon, either from fatigue
or fear at having been made a prisoner, it
fluttered for a while, then gasped and died.
Toward evening a breeze came up, which
soon tipped the waves with white, which
caused our floating palace to roll and stoop
with many graceful and dignified airs, until
the gentle warbling and pensive sighing of
the winds, which at first was music, had now
increased to a doleful wail. Proud Neptune
was triumphing, and thus early on our voyage
this cruel old '^ Ocean King " began abruptly
to demand his " tribute money." Some sub-
mitted without delay, and strong men were
forced to yield to him the sceptre of their
power, and allow the imperious monarch
to collect his revenues, which, under all cir-
cumstances, were paid over in genuine coin,
bearing the image and superscription of the
sea. Once, in my school days, when trying
to solve a mental mathematical problem, we
proved in the end that all live within a circle
whose centre is the will ; the radius may vary,
but the centre will remain fixed. My will
18 LEAFLETS.
was firm not to be sick again ; but before night
I began to know tliat the radius was varying
so rapidly, I thought it best to tlee to my
room, where I surrendered, will aud all.
Many little incidents served to befiruile the
weary hours, and somewhat relieved the
tedium of the voyage. We had no cause for
fear, for our Captain, though a quiet man,
aud of few words, Av^as vigilant and always
at his post, and, if I am any judge, he was
every inch a gentleman; and the good natur-
ed, social Doctoi-, with his chubby suiiling
face, Avas enough to drive away sea-sickness,
at least, to prevent hydrophobia, from its
iatal effects. Among many of the passengers
we did not fail to discover a high tone in their
character. Mrs. F , the wife of our
American Minister in Paris, having herself
escaped sea-sickness, visits the rooms of the
suffering, and cheers them by the light of her
countenance. Robert Dale Owen is very
social. The troop of dramatic singers are
very musical ; besides these, there are several
euiineut physicians and Avealthv merchants
Avith their families, and many others, whose
society we might enjoy if it were not that the
OCEAN A^OYAGE. 19
waters are constantly troubled, and thereby
we are troubled. There are on board French,
Spanish, English, Scotch, Germans and Amer-
ican passengers, reminding us that we are
traversing the great highway of nations. A
Frenchman brought on board a favorite pony,
which was an object of our sympathy when we
ascertained that he had been a fearful subject
of sea-sickness — also a noble Newfoundland
dog, who, as he sat in his kennel all day, was
a very life-like picture of ''patience on a mon-
ument smiling at grief." " The sea still
wrought and was tempestuous," which gave
to the saloons the appearance of a first-class
hospital ; there was no walking or talking ;
even the ladies were as mum as you please —
every one Avas either sitting or reclining at
full length on the sofas, with these words
deeply engraven on their elongated, forlorn,
woe-begone countenances : " the heart know-
eth its own bitterness," or '-my misery is
greater than I can bear." Some declared they
would never be caught at sea again ; others
were contriving to return by way of Behring's
Straits. About this time the purser came
around calling for the tickets. One lady had
2
20 LEAFLETS.
some difficulty in finding hers, but consoled
herself with the hope that if it was not found
they would stop the ship and put her off; but
on this liquid highway there are no grateful
depots, not even one half-way house — all
must " to the end endure " wlio hope to see
the land. I do really believe there were some
that would have made but very little lesist-
ance bud an attempt been made to have
thi'own them overboard.
Tlmrsday. — A dark, dismal and stormy
day closed upon a fearful and densely foggy
night, which brought with it only visions of
icebergs, collisions, wrecks and sudden de-
struction. Our ship continued to roll and
pitch in a chop sea at a tremendous rate —
fitful repose claimed the place of sound sleep.
Mr. N was so quiet I supposed he was in
the land of Nod, when suddenly, with a sort
of desperate spring, he precipitated his bundle
of liumanity from the upper berth, sayings as
he did so: '-I can't endure it any longer; I'm
going up on deck to see the moon rise.'^
Before I had time to entreat him not to go,
he closed the door and was gone. I think I
was never so near being paralyzed with fear;
OCEAN VOYAGE. 21
the timbers in the ship were writhing and
creaking, and threatened every moment to
divide ; the winds groaned and howled furi-
ously ; the waves leaping and dashing against
the sides of the ship, thundering with the
deafening roar and fury of a thousand cata-
racts. Looking through the window I could
see the maddened storm, and fancied I
saw a mountain wave dash over the vessel,
and carry him with it into the frowning deep.
I thought I saw him grappling and buffeting
with the angry waters. ! it was awful ! it
was like a fearful nightmare. In utter des-
pair, I listened to the winds and waves chant-
ing dolefully his requiem. It was like seeing
one rise from the dead, when he again en-
tered, and very coolly said : " He thought
it would be sometime before her majesty
would make her nightly debut." I rather
doubted if he ventured on deck at all. For
hours we remained at the mercy of the
Storm King. Before morning, however, the
sea calmed, and when day unbarred the
Oriental gates, and Sol rode up in his golden
chariot, I can never forget the course of
tremulous radiance that reached down, and
99
LEAFLETS
stretching along on the water, which seemed
like a golden highway cast up for the lieing
who, in the days of His incarnation, walked
on tlie sea to His disciples, and saying to the
rajrine: storm : " Peace ! be still ! and there
was a great calm."' Had not His mandate,
unheard by us, quieted the storm 7 — for thus
was the sea calm unto us in the morning.
As soon as the sun rose, the decks were
crowded ; there w^as a general resurrection of
wasted energies, and many who had not been
out of their berths before, '' came forth."
How fresh, hoAV delightful and invigorating,
were the pulsations of this new life ! All
day long the decks looked like a little com-
nuniit}' turned out on a holida}'.
Again it is Sabbath morning, and the hour
for divine service ; the National flag, as on
the previous Sabbath, is spread out over the
ta])le in the centre of the saloon. Catholics.
Protestants, Infidels, and even Jews, meet with
one accord, and unite in songs of praise. Mr.
N then read the beautiful Eno-lish ser-
vice, and Mr. L preached. He was pale
from sea-sickness, and seemed thoughtful even
to sadness. His sermon, however, carried
OCEAX VOYAGE. 23
with it a sweet and hallowed inliueiice. I
think I have seldom looked upon a brow more
pure and spiritual than his. He is to be Dr.
M'Clintock's assistant in the American Union
Chapel in Paris. Many blessings go with
him. The weather continues fine ; the
bright side of "life on the ocean wave" be-
gins to throw its charms all around us.
Tuesday morning brought us within sight
of land, welcome, thrice welcome to our weary
eyes. As if by magic, every trace of sea-
sickness had disappeared, and every coun-
tenance glowed with rapture. The event lul
voyage to us (it being our first) would
soon terminate, and for the first time it
seemed short, and I could but regret that
I had been a fettered captive, which had
prevented my enjoying any portion of it,
or seeing any thing. How my childhood's
dreamy vagaries had fled in regard to the
grand and sublime of " Old Ocean," and of
Neptune sweeping along in his misty chariot,
with airy steeds, over coral reefs and beds of
pearl, followed by the beaded bubbles from
eveiy wave. I saw no laughing schools of
porpoises, fantastic, gay mermaids, mammoth
24 LEAFLETS.
wlhiles, greedy sharks, slimy serpents, with
all the host of sea-monsters and wonders.
Intense interest and excitement prevailed as
we passed the precipitous promontory, and
threaded what is known as the Needles, which
arc three large, misshapen, chalk-like rocks,
twenty feet high, having been washed from
the mainland by the action of the sea. Alone
they stand in solitary grandeur, not unlike
the majestic pillars of some unfinished temple.
We glided slowly along the calm waters of
the Solent. On our right extended the Isle
of Wight, in all the beauty of budding spring-
time ; the rugged cliffs and jutting headlands
of the promontory now assumed a gentle slop-
ing landscape, varied in its scenery by thick
wooded lawns and little villages, princely
houses, blooming gardens, with verdant mea-
dows reaching down to the margin, and kissing
the sleeping waters of this beautiful bay.
Our steamer was bound to Havre, but about
half-past ten o'clock A. M., she anchored in
the stream opposite a little town by the name
of Cowes ; here a smaller steamer came up to
our side to take those going to Southampton.
Just at this moment we decided to spend a
OCEAN VOYAGE. 25
short time, at least, on the garden Isle. We
left our nohle steamer, and from the smaller
steamer we stepped into a little row l)oat,
which was filled hy Mr. T 's and Mr.
J 's families and ourselves, and was row-
ed to land, a distance of ahout one-fourth of a
mile, hy two live, red-luced Englishmen. As
we sprang on shore, a happier company me-
thinks never pressed Britain's soil. We shout-
ed, in triumphant concert, '-glorious terra
firma! " How I would have enjoyed to have
made this fixir Isle, which at this moment ap-
peared to he our Eden restored, vocal with
glad alleluiahs, wdiich were running all over
me in hlest ecstacy. I felt not unlike an old
hero, who, wdien he came in sight of the
towers and domes of the once glorious Jeru-
salem, fell prostrate and kissed the ground —
I am sure I could have thus clasped this
wanton earth in my eml)race.
CHAPTKR IH.
I S I, F. OF W I (i II T .
AVe sto})pe(l ;it the Gloucester Hotel, which
is only a few feet iVoiii the water's edge. At
twelve we ordei'cd lunch, but I will not at-
tempt to descril)e that ample joint of roast
beef, and the delicious cottage bread that was
set before us, neither will I tell you how much
we stowed away, for I do not knoAv. It is
enough to know that we had been fasting for
ten or eleven days, which gave us a capacity
to do justice to our appetites that had return-
ed to us, strengthened by almost total al)sti-
nence. Having been tossed, rocked, pitched,
rolled, reeled, and tuml^led for so many days
by a sort of liquid earthcpiake, it was dilhcult
to do away with the illusion that we were not
still moving involuntarily. After lunch we
took carriages and rode out over the Island,
which is some twenty miles in length, and
twelve in breadth, with a populaticm of about
lirtA-five thousand. (). what a cliarming di-
ISLE OF WIGHT. Zi
-s ersity of natural scenery, all harmonizing to
make one perfect scene of loveliness ! The
roads were like long winding leafy lanes, em-
bowered by venerable trees, and inclosed by
the most beautiful hawthorn hedges. Little
spring tiowers of almost every hue were grow-
ing wild and luxuriantly by the way-side ; here
and there were neat little thatched roofed
cottao-es, around the doors of which were
playing rosy-cheeked children, and the un-
pretending morning-glories were creeping up,
to curtain with nature's own drapeiy the win-
dows of humble and honest industry.
The Isle of Wight has a stirring history, and
in its archives are the records of many thrill-
ing events of kings and queens, brave knights,
and noble lords ; and here many proud monu-
ments have been erected to attest their glory ;
but, alas, the uncourtly hand of time has al-
ready written "Ichabod" on these proud monu-
ments and castle homes of crowned heads
and sceptred hands. The cloud of oblivion
is also vailing the chivalrous deeds, the glit-
tering spears and jeweled helmets of earldom
and knighthood. But religion has reared, on
this fair Isle, one monument of which the de-
"28 L K A Y L E T S .
vastating hand of time will have no power to
crinn])le and destroy, and when ag-e after aire
.shall numher its cycles with eternity; long
after the liiuiihle cottage, and the modest
clnii-ch ill which is the pew. still shown, where
she used to sit, and the green mound that
heaves ahove the last resting-place of Eliza-
beth Wallbridge, sleeping quietly her hast long
sleep; after all these have been leveled by
decay, and every trace disappear, still many
a pilgrim from fiir and wide Avill wend their
way, and bow, in reverent love, before this
pure shrine of early piety. Who can point
to old age, with failing eyesight, that has not
pored over this simple record of her modest
Christian life and exultant death ! and where
is the child that has not paused amid its frolic
and play to listen to the story of "the Dairy-
man's Daughter," so touchingly narrated by
Leigh Richmond '?
Carisbrook Castle is a stupendous pile of
mouldering ruins ; my simple unsophisticated
childhood never dreamed of such magnificent
decay. But it is a reality. I am standing,
for the first time, and gazing on castellated
walls, grand amid their ruin. We entered
ISLE OF WIGHT. 29
this castle between two btastions, hoary with
age, and passed through a small stone gate-
way. On the front of the arch there is a shield
inscribed with the initial letters E. Iv. and
the figure 40 — the 40th year of Queen Eliza-
beth's reign — and this arched gateway is con-
sidered an architectural relic of Jier reign.
We soon reached another gateway of still
greater antiquity, the gate made of strong
lattice work, joined with large round-headed
nails at each crossing. The gate was opened,
and we were admitted by a fair maiden, ^vhose
very smile seemed full of romance, her saucy
little hat, and velvet jacket, and white kid
gloves strangely contrasted with the venera-
ble walls of the old castle ; she is the successor
of an older sister, whom, we were informed, a
romantic Frenchman saw here for the iirst
time, and wooed her to his Parisian home.
On either side of this portal are immense
round towers of great strength ; and, passing
into the inclosure on the left, are the ruins of
the Chapel of St. Nicholas ; a kitchen garden^
filled with vegetables, growing on the place
once used as an abbey or cemetery ! After ex-
amining these ruins we proceeded to Eliza-
30 LEAFLETS.
beth's apartments, where the echo of three
hundred years seemed to luring back the
voices of England's nobility. This proud and
ambitious Queen swayed a powerful sceptre
in this age of j^eriwigs and knee-])uckles and
frivolous display, which has left but few gloii-
ous memories of noble thoughts and noble
deeds. The ceilings are lofty, and still bear
the impress of royal grandeur. The marble
mantel-piece remains perfect, around which
kings and queens once watched the blazing
fire that glowed beneath this olden mar]:)le.
The apartments where Charles the First was
imprisoned are in a perfectly ruinous state.
Mr. N. climbed up with the greatest difficulty
to the window from which the unfortu-
nate king, in attempting to escape, was taken,
and soon after beheaded. After clambering
up broken stairways, we commenced a circuit
of the immense but crumbling walls, gnawed
away and eaten out in many places by the
destroying tooth of time, and pressed down
by the leaden foot of hundreds of years, un-
til they are no longer their original height.
The exterior of the walls is richly mantled
with ivy, and the top ornamented with an
ISLE OF WIGHT. 31
abundance of wall-flowers. As we were walk-
ing along, the stones would loosen, and as they
crumbled off, rattle down amid the deep thick-
et of tangled and thickly matted cypress and
jasmine growing within the walls far below.
At last Ave succeeded in gaining the top of
the old Saxon tow^er, where we could look out
on one of the most enchanting landscapes
spread out on every side in extensive pano-
ramic views. My eye wandered through a
leafy opening a little in the distance, until I
caught a glimpse of the silvery lake on wdiose
placid bosom Roman galleys reposed in olden
times. After going down one flight of steps
after another, and winding around through
gloomy passage ways, in descending from
these high w^alls, said to be in some places
eighteen feet in thickness, we reached the
bottom, where, in a sequestered nook, we
found the Dungeon Well, of Roman construc-
tion, three hundred feet deep, now nearly fill-
ed with rubbish and stones. In another place
w^e found the Garrison Well, of great interest,
which is three hundred and ten feet deep,
with an inexhaustible supply of pure water,
raised in an immense bucket by a reflective
32 LEAFLETS.
donkey, whose name is John. Castle tradi-
tion very gravely informed us that this
patient John Donkey was of royal ances-
try, and now lilled his place in the regular
succession, his honorahle predecessors having
faithfully performed the same duty of step-
ping round and round this endless wheel,
one for forty years, and another forty-five.
The ladies in our company rewarded his toil
by feeding him bread and cakes, which he
ate from their hands.
We now left the Castle, and, on returning
home, we passed Prince Albert's model farms,
some of which were inclosed with brick walls,
others by beautifully trimmed hedges. Their
appearance, as far as we could see, evinced a
high state of cultivation. The great attrac-
tion of the Island for a few years past has
been the Osborne House, the sea-side resi-
dence of Queen Victoria, wdiere she celebrates
her birth-day in the quiet of her family ;
where the young Princes and Princesses each
have flower and vegetable gardens, and green-
houses and tool chests, and even a carpenter's
shop. The young Princes are encouraged by
the noble Prince Consort to practice garden-
ISLE OF WIGHT. 33
ing and farming. The Princesses follow the
lovely Queen into the kitchen, where they
pry into all the mysteries of cooking and
pastry, floured to the elbow^s at one time, at
another preserving the fruits of their own
garden, to be eaten on the royal table, or
given out to the poor of the neighborhood.
Here the most refined and exalted tastes are
cultivated ; Nature studied in all its depart-
ments ; and specimens of rocks and flowers,
and birds and animals, are carefully arranged
in their museum; and not only studied, but
Nature, in all its diversity, is loved and ad-
mired. In a word, they are allowed to run
wild and free, not unlike other happy chil-
dren, considering it no condescension to roj^ al
dignity to have a practical knowledge of what
labor is. It is asserted that the royal family
are never happier than during their sojourn
at Osborne. We stopped our carriage at
the entrance, hoping to gain access to the
grounds, if not to the Palace, but were not
allowed, on account of the preparations being
made for the coming of Her Majesty in a few
days. We urged the venerable porter, telling
him Ave were from America, and this was the
34 LEAFLETS.
only opportunity we would have ; but the
dear, laithl'ul old man assured us he could not
allow us to enter if half of the kingdom were
given hiui, for ])y so doing he would forfeit
his post of honor. He was very kind, and
allowed us to look as far over the ground as
we could, and gave me a little bouquet and
oftered me a fuchsie nicely growing in a
flower-pot, which I was obliged to refuse, not
being al)le to care for it during my journey.
I thought, how I wish I could send it to some
of my friends as a royal present. We thanked
him over and over again for his kindness, and
just as we were leaving he asked : ''Do you
know my brother in America by the name of
Smith, and living in a place called Brazil ?"
We assured him that we knew several by that
name in America, but we were sorry to say
we doubted whether or no they were any of
them his brother, as Brazil was in South
America, a great many miles from where we
lived in New York, which was in North
America. He looked rather disappointed, and
we left. Returning to our hotel about six
o'clock, we found our English dinner we
had ordered before leaving, smoking on the
ISLE OF WIGHT. 35
table, which seemed to groan under the weight
of abundance, particularly roast beei' and plum
pudding. Without these it would have failed
to be genuine English. It would be ridicu-
lousW superfluous to add that we enjoyed this
dinner under the circumstances— our good
landlord and lady doing all in their power to
supply all our wants, being exceedingly
aftable and polite, thanking us over and over
as they removed our empty plates, and even
thanking us for thanking them. Who can ever
do justice in describing the luxury of a good
English bed, and a large, well-aired room, the
first night after an ocean voyaged
3^
CHAPTER lY.
ISLE OF WICIIT TO LONDON.
May Vltli. — This morning we sailed from
the Isle of Wight to Southampton. When
about fifteen miles on our way we stopped to
visit the Great EaMern as she lay anchored
in the stream. She is magnificent, and her
proportions are immense. At a little dis-
tance her masts and smoke-pipes resemble the
spires and chinnieys of a little village. As
our tiny steamer came under her mountain
sides, where we could look along her length,
twice that of any of our largest steamers, and
with a height towering far above us, we gained
some idea of lier tremendous size. Her inte-
rior arrangements are ample and elegant.
We continued our sail for five miles, when we
reached Southampton, where we took a car-
riage and went inmicdiatelj^ to the depot,
and purchased our tickets for the train
TO LONDON. 37
leaving for London. The English do not
check baggage as we do in America. They
weigh it, and charge by the pound lor trans-
porting it. Here comes in the advantage of
small trunks. As we had three or lour hours
to spend in Dr. Watts' native town — he whose
memory is rendered sacred in the hearts of
thousands by his psalms and hymns — we be-
gan to contrive the best way to enjoy our-
selves, and see the most before the cars should
leave. We would not have time to visit the
Ibrest-embosomed Netley Abbey, which is two
miles distant, and see Southampton too. After
walking through all the prominent streets, we
very fortunately gained permission to enter
the splendid grounds of the archdeacon, who
had recently been chosen bishop, and had
left to enjoy his higher honors. The taste in
which the gardens and grounds are arranged
makes them exquisitely beautiful. The build-
ings are plain but substantial, and all the
rooms neatly and appropriately furnished.
The walls that surround the grounds are
loaded on the outside wdth ivy, and in the in-
terior fruit trees of all kinds are trained with
great care and skill, which were in bloom,
38 I. E A F L E T S .
filling the air with frngrance. The vegetable
garden gave signs of i)lenty. The extensive
hot-houses were filled with rich and choice
exotics. The walks are spacious — the lawn
soft and green — the venerable shade-trees, lux-
uriant in their ibliage. Oh! thought I, what
a charming retreat for study and reliection,
awiiy from the noise and bustle of the world,
amid budding spring flowers and under the
graceful, nodding plumes of grand old elms.
We need not wonder at the refinement and
ability of the clergy of the Established Church
while England provides such homes for her
prelates.
The time imperceptibly glided away, and
the hour had arrived for the train to leave.
We hastened to the depot. The cars were
really quite a curiosity to us, so unlike the
ones we have at home. They are not as long
as ours, but with doors on each side which
admitted us into little apartments with two
cushioned seats extending the width of the
car, calculated to accommodate about twelve
persons, ,who must sit facing each other.
There are several classes of cars, known as
first class, second, third, and fourth. The
TO LONDON. 39
first class are very elegant, with seats as easy
as an armed chair ; the second about the same
as ours in style ; the third are not cushioned
at all ; the fourth are open at the windows,
or rather no windows at all, and the people
who ride in them stand huddled in like the
cattle in our freight cars. We had purchased
our tickets for the second class, which we en-
tered as we saw it marked on the outside.
But few, except the very wealthy, ride in the
first class, as the expense is nearly double ;
and none but the poorer class ride in the
third. The result is, the second class cars
are usually filled with ver}^ wholesome, re-
spectable people. But it must be remembered
the English always say ''going by rail," and
'' taking seats in the coach."' They did not seem
to understand us when we said ''• we were going
in the cars." At the moment we were taking
our seats I observed a man who looked like a
living, walking skeleton, attempting to enter ;
but no one seemed willing to have a sick per-
son in the apartment they occupied. We im-
mediately invited him in where we were, and
arranged a place for him to recline, and thus
ride comfortably. He seemed very grateful for
40 LEAFLETS.
our attenti(3n to him; but, oil ! how piteously
he was wasted by consumption, and the lamp
of life flickered ^aintl3^ We learned from
him that he was just returning from a long
expedition to India, with a cherished hope of
dying in the quiet ol" his own home, at the
mention of which his sunken eyes kindled
into radiance. What will not wear}' and
wasted nature endure that those we love may
soothe our dying pillow ? Poor man ! the last
we saw of him was when we reached the
great city. I trust his frail bark reached the
home-haven, to receive once more the smiles
of kindred and friends. It rained nearly all
the way ; but as the train did not run rap-
idly, it gave us a fine opportunity to see the
country, and the thatched-roofed homes of
Merrie England's husbandry. The fields were
richly ciirpeted in green, and venerable trees
adorned them everywhere. We could see
neatly trimmed hedges running in all direc-
tions, at one time in curves, then in straight
lines, and again crossing each other in every
variety of angles, interlacing the entire coun-
try in a perfect net- work of beauty. In about
three hours from the time we left Southamp-
TOLOXDOX. 41
ton we reached London, the great metropolis
of the world.
We immediately selected a carriage from
the lono- line that bounded one side of the
depot, in which we entered, and were soon
on the famous London Bridge, which spans
the lliver Thames. Here our eyes began
to open on the wonders of the great city
we had just entered. This extraordinary
bridge was commenced in 1825, and opened
by King William the Fourth, in 1831. It
cost two millions sterling, and is very pon-
derous in its construction, being built of huge
blocks of granite, supported by five massive
semi-eliptical arches. As soon as our car-
riage drove on to the bridge, I observed that
the road through the centre was thronged
with a variety of vehicles, and the broad
stone sidewalk teemed with a walking com-
munity. Above each pier are niches, with
stone seats, where the weary were resting
from their burdens ; and over the parapet,
idlers were hanging in careless indolence.
On reaching the centre of the bridge, the
most complete world in miniature appeared
before us. A forest of shipping extended on
42 LEAFLETS.
either side of the river, and through the cen-
tre little steamers were constantly pulHng
their black smoke, having their decks crowded
with people. Through the thick, murky at-
mosphere at our right, I at once recognized
the dome of St. Paul's, with its golden ball
and gilded cross, as it loomed up in grandeur;
and a little bevond was the Tower of London,
with its unmistakable quartette of turrets.
The sky was entirely obscured by the im-
penetrable vail of smoke and vapor, which
seemed to me to be the breath of invisible
greatness going up continually, "filling the air
and darkening heaven." As we left the
bridge, we at once plunged into densely
crowded and compact streets, alike dingy and
gloomy. We ordered our coachman to take
us to Queen Ann's Square, Holborn, which he
did, and as we stopped before No. 11, and
the servant came to the door to answer the
ringing of the bell, I could but observe what
was to me a mysterious chain across the door-
way, behind which he stood. It was re-
moved, as we approached, to allow us to pTiss,
and immediately replaced, while the door re-
mained open. '' Can I see the lady of the
TOLOXDON. 43
boardino:-house V said Mr. N . I stood
beside him, not daring to move in such a
gloomy place — having my eyes fixed ^on the
chain across the door, thinking what it could
be intended for. It was only a moment, when
a tall old lady marched into the hall, dressed
in black, and wearing a widow's cap. Ad-
dressing her as Mrs. M , to which she as-
sented, we informed her that we wished
rooms. After asking us by whom we were
recommended, and receiving our card, given
to us by Dr. A , of New York, " I can take
you m," said she, and stepping to the door
ordered our baggage to be brought in, and
closed after it the heavy door. The old lady
then called at the top of her voice, '' Mar-ga-
ret — Mar-ga-ret ;" a little Scotch girl in-
stantly answered the call, and was commanded
to show us our rooms.
It was nearly dark, and I, being tired, stag-
gered and stumbled along up the first flight
of stairs ; and, turning to go up the next, I
suddenly came ni contact with a tall, old-fash-
ioned clock, whose slender mahogany frame
reached from the floor nearly to the ceiling,
and the only apology I could exact for its be-
44 LEAFLETS.
ing in my way, as I looked up into its face,
was ''tick, tack; tick, tack." On the third
floor we entered our rooms, into which our
trunks had ])receded us. I looked around for
a moment in perfect amazement, and then
asked Mr. N if he thouglit this was the
usual style of English boarding-houses, or if
he supposed they were cleaning house and had
given us the wrong room ? No carpet on the
flooi' — not even painted. The bureau and
chairs made us think of Queen Anne's time,
whose statue we had observed in a little park
in front of the house ; but, with increased as-
tonishment, I turned and looked at the great
mountain of feathers towering nearly to the
ceiling, resting upon an old-fashioned high-
post bedstead, with a drab-colored frill flutter-
ing, like sombre clouds of Autumn, above and
around the top. I looked around to see the
ladder we were to use to climb up into bed.
We were relieved in a few moments by the
ringing of the tea-bell. On the first fioor we
were shown to the dining-room, where we
found a table reaching nearly the length of
the room, around which several boarders were
already seated. The old lady we had met at
TO LONDON. 45
the door sat very erect at the head of the ta-
ble ; and, as soon as we had taken our seats,
she rapidly pronounced the blessing. The
table was covered with a dark brocatelle cloth,
with little blue plates — just exactly like some
my mother has that must have been her grand-
mother's — without a knife or fork, which
would have been of no use, for the bread,
which was cut in very thin slices, was already
buttered ; two glass bottles of water, and a
few tumblers, were all that was on the table,
except the tea-service at the head of the ta-
ble, which consisted of a few little China cups
and saucers, a sugar bowl and milk cup, and
a little box of tea, which the old lady in black
took a key from her pocket and unlocked,
and, taking from it some tea, put it into a
small Britannia tea-pot ; and after pouring
hot water on it from a large copper kettle
standing near her, poured the carefully
made tea into cups, which she passed around.
As I never drink tea, it did not take me long to
eat my buttered bread. Having no other oc-
casion for staying at the table longer, I hast-
ened back to my room to spend this gloomy
twilight hour in meditating on English board-
40 LEAFLETS.
iiig-liouses. On reaching my room, and open-
ing the door, I stepped back in sm'prise to
find such a change ! I had only been absent
a few moments. Had I entered the wrong-
room, or had fairies been at phiy here, thought
I? A nice carpet now covered the lioor,
snowy curtains shaded the window, and the
toilet and bureau were covered with white
napkins ; tleecy white curtains now hovered
over what seemed to me mostly to resemble
Mont Blanc. What a change had come over
the spirit of our dreams! At nine in the
evening, we were again sunnnoned into the
dining-room to attend prayers and eat supper.
Mrs. M read a chapter from the Testa-
ment, and, after many of us had kneeled, we
tried our best to unite with her as she read
rapidly a prayer from a book she held in her
hand. The supper was more abundant than
our tea at six o'clock. We retired, weary and
worn, to sleep our first night in London.
CHAPTER Y.
BRITISH MUSEUM AND ST. PAUL'S.
May im.
We indulge a "forlorn hope" this morn-
iiio- — notwithstanding it still rains, as we
are informed it has already rained two
^yeeks — that the clearing-off shower will soon
come. The world-renowned British Museum
is not fLir from where we are stopping, and we
anticipate it as a glorious retreat for all rainy
days, provided it does not rain every day for
two more weeks to come. We were informed
that the Museum opened at 10 o'clock, and off
we started in the rain, and soon we found it
in Great Russell Street. It is an extensive
building, covering more than seven acres; the
ornamental gates and fence which incloses the
court-yard, also the front porticos, are very
hnposing. We remained there nearly all day,
and still what a world of wonders, what an
eternity of curiosities we left without ex-
48 LEAFLETS.
amining, and which it we^e impossible to look
at in one day. In tlie lirst room we entered
we found only fragments of art, made up
of armless and legless figures of heathen
divinities ; headless horses, and eagles with-
out wings; hands detached from the arm,
and heads of men, women and children, broken
off ; broken down altars, crumbling foun-
tains, richly tinted columns and carved capitals
of almost every style of architecture. How
desperately art must have struggled with ruin
and time to have thus gloriously triumphed
over mutilation; and after so many years the
hand of man has placed here such grand frag-
mentary relics of sculpture and architectural
decorations, to be admired by thousands. In
another apartment we spent s(nne time in
examining manuscripts of great value, and
autographs, the sight of which awakened a
strange veneration toward the soul, that still
sneemed to breathe in the hand-writing of
Shakespeare, Sir Walter Scott, Mary Queen of
Scots, Queen Elizabeth, and Lad}^ Jane Gray,
a brilliant galaxy, formed with the names
written by their own hands, as if to prove
they lived, and that the record of their
BRITISH MUSEUM. 49
fame is true. Here are names of kings and
queens, philosophers, statesmen, poets, artists,
and divines. In another room, or compart-
ment, we saw the marble heads of Julius
Csesar, Agustus Tiberius and Nero, Minerva,
and Diana, the sister of Apollo, Venus and
Juno, also Pericles, Demosthenes, Homer,
Hippocrates, and scores of others, that were
sculptured, it is said, in the second century
after Christ. The Elgin rooms, named after
Earl Elgin, consist principally of sculpture
and inscriptions from Athens. The most in-
teresting series of groups are those taken from
the eastern and western pediments of the Par-
thenon, or Temple of Minerva, at Athens. In
other rooms, minerology, geology and zoology,
are all extensively represented. The finest
and best specimens of rare beasts and birds,
reptiles and fishes that are found, are arranged
in the wall cases. Every variety of shells,
corals, and insects, fill a series of table-cases
in the centre of the rooms. Having thus
caught a glimpse of the wonders deposited
in this immense building, we will not become
gloomy, after being thus entertained, even
on rainy days.
50 L E A F L E T S .
London^ Mdn V^th. — We commenced this
morning in good earnest our chase after the
^' jiritish Lions." The evening, I assure you,
finds us quite chased down by them. To-day
we have seen the Royal Exchange, the Bank
of Enghmd, and St. Paul's ; besides this, for
some hours we dashed along in a Hansom, (a
curious vehicle 1 will some time describe to
you,) through many of the mighty arteries,
and some of the smaller veins, of this great
metropolis of the Avorld. Again, at one time
we attempted to thread our way on foot along
the nerves and sinews, when, alas, we found
ourselves crowded, thronged and pressed for-
ward by an immense rushing, gushing stream
of human beings, that come unceasingly —
pouring down the pavements and side-walks
of every street, lane and alley. I gazed with
more awe and wonder on this great multitude,
which it appeared to me "no man could num-
ber," than when I looked for the first time on
the awful grandeur of Niagara. Some uplift-
ed imploring eyes and hands to us ; some were
lounging carelessly and indifferently; some
plodding along industriously; some seemed to
be Hying, others whirling, all through the
BRITISH MUSEUM. 51
short and varying cycles of time, to plunge
at last into the long, unending, and unknown
cycles of eternity.
The Royal Exchange may very truthfully
he called the eye of London; the building is
quadrangle in form, with a grand colonnade.
It seemed to me one immense modern Bahel,
systematized into perfect harmony. Hundreds
of foreign merchants gather here, from all
parts of the earth, to transact business. I
stood a moment and watched them as they
were passing in and out, and found it exceed-
ingly amusing and interesting to study their
peculiar manners and picturesque costumes.
The Bank of England is situated on Thread-
needle Street; it is a superbly constructed
block of one story buildings, somewhat irregu-
lar, and covering four acres. The area in
the centre is beautifully ornamented with
trees and shrubs; the arrangement of every
department of the interior seems perfectly
adapted to facilitate business; eight hundred
clerks are constantly employed.
But when we refer you to St. Paul's Cathe-
dral, we exclaim, in the ardor of our enthu-
siasm, ''the heavens above for height, and
52 LEAFLETS.
the earth beneath for depth." Thus does
St. Paul's of London excel in grandeur of
lofty proportions, and l)eauty of architectural
design, any thing 1 have ever seen; I stiirtle
now when I recall its immensity. What a
magnihcent and gigantic monument! wisely
designed, and gloriously beautified by man's
superior genius, and reared by his strong
arm.
The exterior is a good deal blackened by
the smoke of at least two centuries, giving it
a venerable air as it towers up proudly above
the loftiest building in London. The mate-
rial of which it is constructed is the best Port-
land stone, and decorated with several colos-
sal jBgures of the Apostles. The grand entrance
is reached by twenty -two black marble steps,
under a double portico, supported by columns
of the Corinthian and Composite orders, above
which are the clock and belfry towers, giving
the entire exterior a most imposing ap-
pearance.
I had supposed, by descriptions I have
read, to find the interior damp and cold, and
in the last degree dismal — the frescos be-
grimed with mold, the statuary dingy, and
BRITISH MUSEUM. 5S
every thing within far from being attractive.
Quite to the contrary ; a few years past has
lent cheerful sunbeams, which have pierced
the gloom, removed the mold, and recovered
the l)cauty of the marble, and withal diffused
a pure atmosphere. In taking a circuit of the
vast interior, I counted at least fifty elegant
monuments, nearly every one of them erected
to military heroes, which, notwithstanding
their ela])orate designs, seemed inappropriate
to that sacred place. The floors are inlaid in
squares of black and white marble, the centre
forming a complete mariner's compass, show-
ing the thirty-two points ; the central one, a
large brass plate, from which radiates three
circles, the largest just the size of the dome.
As I stood within this circle of circles, my eye
wandered upward and upward through what
seemed to me an infinite maze of arches and
pillars, which encircled the dome, and for a
moment I was well nigh lost to every thing
but grandeur. Again, looking below and
around me, I became imbued with a strange,
sweet ecstacy, which made me feel that the}^
who worship in this holy and beautiful temple,
must, in their devotions, be far removed from
54 LEAFLETS.
all common-pLice ideas of this life, to the
splendors of that eternal Temple in the skies
" whose builder and maker is God." We as-
cended six hundred and sixteen steps to reach
the golden ball, which, from the pavement in
the street, looks very small ; but on reaching
it we found it measured six leet in diameter,
and large enough to hold twelve persons, very
uncomfortably, however. It weighs five thou-
sand six hundred pounds. Thirty feet above
this, heavenward, stands a gilded emblem of
ChrLstian faith, resting on the ball, with a
weight of three thousand three hundred and
sixty pounds. Three of our little company
only persevered until we reached the ball,
where we triumphed a few moments together
in thus being able, with almost exhausted
physical energies, to join companionship with
the higher regions — our tired limbs at the
same time crying out bitterly against our
resolute wills, tantalizing us with the truth
that it was but little, alter all, to have it
said we had entered the ball of St. Paul's,
which was only dark, and afforded us no view
at all. Just below this we looked over the
parapet down into the streets, which from
BRITISH MUSEUM. 55
this giddy heightof over three hundred and
fifty feet resembled narrow pathways swarm-
ing wdth Liliputiati men, women, and children
busily at work as little bees, depositing treas-
ures in hiuises which looked like tiny cells.
A cloud of smoke, that forever hangs over the
city like a gloomy pall, prevented our seeing
lar around or aljove us. If I say more, I fear
you will imagine that I intend to exhaust all
mv adjectives on one grand pile of stone in
London ; but the fact is, I have only one no-
bler, loftier, grander and more sublime ideal
of stone piled up into the form of a building,
and that is St. Peter's at Rome, beneath
" Italia's sunny sky." On our return from
the ball, we entered the whispering gallery,
which is ^vorthy of a record — where a word
spoken in the lowest tones can be heard one
hundred and forty feet as plainly as if spoken
close to the ear. The closing of a door sounds
like the discharge of artillery. The great
bell, ten feet in diameter, and weighing over
eleven thousand pounds ; the clock, with its
two laces, each fifty-seven feet in cij-cumfer-
ence, with hands ten feet long ; the extraor-
dinary flooring of the library, containing at
i 5
56 LEAFLETS.
least two thousand three hundred j)ieces (^f
oak, inlaid without a nail ; the seven thousand
volumes piled on the shelves ; the oldest Com-
mon Prayer-Book, and scores of olden manu-
scripts, are all of thrilling interest. vStill, I can
not leave you until we descend into the crypt,
where the fading wreaths of honor, and men's
glory, are i'aintly seen by here and theie a ray
of light from darkened windows, or a few^
flickering lamps. But, oh! to be buried under
this grand old dome. What a grave ! Hei*e is
a sarcophagus of black marble, surmounted by
a cushiim and coronet. On the pedestal is
this brief inscription, '' Horatio Viscount Nel-
son." Only a few steps from this, undei- the
same d(»me, in stately niagnificence, is the
vsplendid sarcophagus of the '' Iron Duke,"
whose proud coffin bears the follownng jiomp-
ous inscription :
■' The Most High, MiLrhty and Most Noble Prince Arthur. Duke
and Marquis of Wellington. Marquis of Druro, Karl of Wellington.
Viscount Wellington of Tahvera and of Wellington, and Baron
Druro of Wellesley, Knight of the Most Noble Order of the (rarter.
Knight Grand Cross of the Most Honorable Order of the Bath, one
of Her Majesty's Most Honorable Privy Council, and Field Marshal
and Commander-in-Chief of Her Majesty's Forces, bnrn 1st if May.
1769: died 14th September. 1852.'"
At the present day, England is wont to
BRITISH MUSEUM. 57
speak of the power, influence and glory of the
great Duke of Wellington, as the highest ever ,|y^
reached by mortal man— eclipsing C^sar, and jH
all of Roman fame. His dust reposes within ^fff
four coffins, inclosed in a splendid sarcopha-
gus, the inner one made of pine, by the Duke's
own x^arpenter ; the next oi' lead, twice the
usual thickness ; the third of English oak ;
the outej- one of solid mahogany, covered
with crimson velvet, from Genoa, decorated
with silver devices, significant of his ducal
honors. Thus, side by side, sleep in death,
two heroes, under a grand and lofty dome,
towering up toward heaven — the bravest and
greatest field and naval officers of which Eng-
land is proud to boast !
ClJAr'J'KR YI.
FinsT SA.r'.PATH IN LO N DON — W KSl, I! Y 'S GRAVI'— WEST-
MINSTER ABBEY.
Mmj 20!h.
OcR first Sabbath morning in London
ibund U8 in Exeter Hall, by paying one shil-
ling each (equal to twenty-five cents Amer-
ican money). We were admitted through
a 2^rivate entrance, and in this w^ay secured
good seats. When all the doors were open the
hundreds that were in w\aiting rushed in, un-
til the inmiense Hall was crowded with at
least three or four thousand people, and a
perfect sea of upturned faces greeted Mr.
Spurgeon as he made his appearance on the
stage, whiciv f^ei'ved as a pulpit, and com-
menced service by reading a hjann with very
fine cflect ; the w^hole congregation arose and
united in the singing. He then read and ex-
plained a chapter in the Bil)le, after which
he prayed fervently, and preached from these
words : " For Thou hast cast all my sins be-
FIRST SABBATH IN LONDON. o9
hind liiy back." The sermon glowed with
zeal, energy and spiritual life. His voice is
as clear as the lute of an angel, and the en-
gi'avings we see of him give us a very correct
idea of his personal appearance. In St.
James' Hall, at six o'clock P.M., we listened
to the celebrated Wesley an Methodist preach-
er, Mr. Funshon. The hall is large, and it
was crowded to overtlowing. When the con-
gregation arose and commenced singing
'• Jesus, lover of rny soul," a sweet home-feel-
ing thrilled my spiiit, kindling anew the
spiritual fire on the altar of my heart, prov-
ing that the hallowed influence of devotion
is the same the world over.
Mr. Funshon differs decidedly in personal
appearance from Mr. Spurgeon. They are
both pure and genuine Englishmen ; but Pun-
shon's voice is neither clear nor musical ; still,
he excels Spurgeon in eloquence and style of
oratory. They are both in the piime and
vigor of manhood ; and, thus far, their brilliant
career has seldom, if ever, been equaled in
Great Britain. They are both gifted with a
kind of magnetic power, which attracts or
draws the multitude after them. Wherein
60 LEAFLETS.
their great strength lies I could not exactly
divine. I imagine not so much in what they
say, as how they say it.
How I wish you could have been with
nie to-day, as we stood by the grave of the
eminent John Wesley. He is buried in the
rear of the edifice known as City Road
Chapel. On the 1st of April, 1777, he laid
the corner-stone of this grand old cathedral
of Methodism. His name, and the date, were
engraved on a brass plate inserted in the
stone, and on that occasion he said, '' Proba-
bly this will be seen no more by human eye,
but will remain there till the earth, and the
works thereof, are burnt up." It is a well-
constructed building, showing, as yet, no signs
of decay ; and if it is guarded in future as it
has been in the past, by the devoted followers
of this Apostle of Methodism, it may not
crumble into ruins before the great " war of
elements, the wreck of matter and the crash
of worlds." A chaste and appropriate monu-
ment has, within a few years, been erected
over the spot where he quietly and peacefully
sleeps, on the front of which is the following
im^cription :
GRAVE OF WESLEY. 61
THIS GRATEFUL RECORD
OF THE PLACE JIADE SACRED BY THE
MORTAL REMAINS
OF THE VENERABLE AND APOSTOLIC
WESLEY,
Was first erected A. D. MDCCCL
But re-edified and enlarged A. D. MDCCCXI.
(During- the Centenary of Methodism).
At the expense, and under direction of
HIS SONS AND SUCCESSORS IN THE CIIRISTIAX MINISTRY,
THE METHODIST CONFERENCE,
IN TOKEN OF
Their filial admiration, reverence and love,
TO THE MEMORY OF
THE VENERABLE JOHN WESLEY, A.M.,
LATE FELLOW OF LINCOLN COLLEGE, OXFORD.
This great Light arose,
(By the singular providence of God),
TO ENLIGHTEN THESE NATIONS,
And to revive, enforce and defend
THE PURE APOSTOLIC DOCTRINES AND PRACTICES OF
THE PRIMITIVE CHURCH,
Which he continued to do both by his writings and labours
FOR MORE THAN HALF A CENTURY;
And, to his inexpressible joy.
Not only beheld their infiuonce extending,
And their efficacy witnessed.
In THE Hearts and Lives of Many Thousands,
As well in the Western world as in these Kingdoms,
But. also, far above all human power or expectation,
Lived to see provision made by the singular Grace of God,
For their continuance and establislimeut
TO THE J0"% OF FUTURE GENERATIONS.
Reader, if thou art constrained to bless the instrument,
GIVE GOD THE GLORY.
After having languished a few days, he at length finished his course
and life together! gloriously triumphant over Death,
and died March 2d, HDl, in the eighty-
eighth year of his age.
62 LEAFLETS.
Such a record must strike every one as an
impressive and truthful epitome of his long
course of devotedness to God and the Church,
and of the triumphant closing scenes of his
life. To stand by the grave of one hallowed
in memory from the earliest dawn of my
recollections, was indeed a sacred pleasure.
The next grave, by his side, is that of Adam
Clarke, the greatest of Bible commentators,
and on the tablet erected to his memory is
this brief inscription:
SACRED
TO THE MEMORY OF
ADAM CLARKE, LL.D., F. S. A..
Who rested iroin hi.s labors.
Aagiu>t 2m, 1S32.
AGED 72 YEARS.
Thus in holy, as well as loving fraternity,
repose these two great and eminently good
men of God — who, during their lives tuned
harps we but faintly touch; but who, no doubt,
are now striking harps of gold, in the most
exalting strains of harmony and love, around
the throne of God in heaven. In the same
grounds we also stood beside the grave of
Joseph Benson and Robeit Watson, and from
GRAVE OF WESLEY. 63
each I plucked some leaves and grasses, as
mementoes. We were kindly invited to take
tea Avitli the Rev. Mr. Wilson and lady, alter
which, in the evening, we attended a mission-
ary anniversary at the City lload Chapel,
where we saw the Wesleyan ministry well
represented, on a stage erected for the occa-
sion. The Rev. Mr. Waddy, the president of
the Wesleyan Conference, presided, and com-
menced the exercises with a charming little
speech. Mr. Pimshon was evidently antici-
pated to be the lion of the evening, for as he
entered whilst another was speaking, the au-
dience began to cheer vehemently; the speak-
er inferred that the applause was intended for
himself, and seemed to catch fresh inspiration,
which all must have observed was very
much dampened when he saw Mr. P
take a seat on the stand near him. It soon,
however, became his turn to speak, when the
audience re2:aled him with a shower of " hear !
hear! hear!" the English manner of applaud-
ing, and which he repaid by a splendid
efibrt, sparkling with the true genius ol' the
man.
A few moments' walk brought us standing
64 LEAFLETS.
before Westminster Abbey, gazing intenth'
upon its gorgeous exterior, which we found
turreted, arched, fretted, spired and pinna-
cled, until the vast whole seemed like an
elegant piece of rich embroidery, interwoven
into fine meshes of lace- work by the fingers
of angels, so aerial, delicate and fairy-like,
yet vast and grand, in all its loity propor-
tions. It is soiled and blackened by the
dust of hundreds of years, seeming only
to prove the genuineness of the endless com-
bination of beauty and grace that every-
where adorn its Gothic sides. We were about
to enter, but were informed that the fune-
ral of Sir Charles Bariv, the cele])rated
architect, was to take place in about an
hour, and no one could be allowed to enter
until the procession had arrived, and already
the crowd was gathering thickly at each en-
trance. From our position we had a fine
view of the new Houses oi Parliament, ex-
tending exactly opposite to us, producing a
striking contrast, in all the freshness of their
"latter day glory," to the r)egrimed palace of
tombs, loaded with the weight of centuries,
against which we were leaning. The style in
W E S T M I N S T E R A B R E Y . 65
which these houses are built is difficult, ii not
impossible, to describe, or to characterize by
a generic name ; some say it is Tudor, or very
nearly approaching it, while others call it
Gothic. It is very evident that the architect
intended to avoid ecclesiastical, collegiate
and castellated styles, as entirely inappropri-
ate to such buildings. It is said Sir Charles
Barry, the architect, called the style Palatial —
he whose funeral procession we were expect-
ing so(m to see pass mournfully under the
very shadow^ of this wonderful monument of
his genius. The clock, and Victoria towers,
are both over three hundred feet high, the
central dome is nearly the same height. The
front of the building facing the Thames is one
thousand feet in length, in the centre of it is
the river terrace, which is seven hundred feet
in extent, from which is gained one of the finest
views in Lrmdon. This magnificent facade is
divided into five compartments, paneled with
tracery, and decorated with the statues and
shields of England's kings and queens. In de-
sign and beauty of decoration in the entire ex-
terior, I think I never saw greater harmony.
At the time appointed for the funeral the
66 LEAFLETS.
vast crowd began to separate to the right and
the left ; and iirst passed the hearse, rich in
its heavy black, drawn by splendid horses,
who curved their slender, graceful necks be-
neath the mourning drapery, hanging to
the ground, followed by fifty elegant car-
riaa'es, and hundreds of intellicrent lookinor
men, who passed, two by two, Avilh badges of
crape on the arm. They were members of
his great family of architects, at whose head
he had stood first for so many years. We ap-
preciated this unexpected privilege to attend
the funeral of such a great man, one exalted
in the hearts and homes of the nation, and
then to see his new-made grave beside those
who have been slumbering for hundreds of
years in this olden earth, and sheltered so
long by such architectural beauty and gran-
deur. The whole ceremony was brief and
thrillingly impressive. The crowd soon parsed
hither and thither, and we were left nearlv
alone with our guide, to wander in this solemn
temple, which appeared next in vastness to the
grand universe itself, huiig in funeral drapery,
and carved with the inscriptions .of man's
glory. Here, for ages, the honorable and am-
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 67
bitlous have sought, and even coveted, a
proud mausoleum. Nelson, on the eve of one
of his most important naval engagements,
gave out as the rallying watch-word and
motto, " Victory or Westminster Abbey."
Hours passed beneath groined and traceried
roofs, and sculptured arcades, the sides filled
in with exquisitely decorated niches.
What a vast and crowded cemetery! What
a perfect wilderness of inscriptions ! What a
gallery of art! To tell you of half the mon-
uments on which are inscribed familiar names
must reduce your stock of patience before
the record is half read. I acknowledge my-
self somewhat bewildered, and consider the
effusion of Pope exceedingly appropriate,
and no less truthful:
•' Friend for your epitaphs I grieved,
Where still so much is said ;
One half will never be believed,
The other never read.''
The grand nave, transepts, choir, chapels,
cloisters, and monuments, with their inscrip-
tions, are all replete with interest. The
monument, which among them all, leaves its
impression uneffaced, that I considered in
68 LEAFLETS.
every way worthy of so mighty a man, was
the one erected to the memory of Isaac New-
ton. The iigure is recumbent, leaning his
right arm on ibur titled folios: Divinity,
Chronology, Optics, and Phil. Prin. Math.;
and pointing to a scroll supported by winged
chei'ubs. Over him is a large globe, project-
ing from a pyramid behind, whereon is delin-
eated the course of the comet in 1080. wnth
the signs, constellations, and planets. On
this sits the figure of Astronomy, with her
book closed. Underneath, the principal fig-
ure is a most singular bas-relief, represent-
ing the various labors in which Sir Isaac
chiefly employed his time : such as discover-
ing the cause of gravitation, settling the prin-
ciples of light and colors, and reducing the
coinage ti)' a determined standard. The de-
vice of w^eighing the sun by the steelyard has
been thought at once Ixjld and striking, w^hile
the entire design of the monument does honor
to the sculptor. The inscription on the ped-
estal is in Latin, short, but full of meaning,
which intimates that by a spirit, nearly divine,
he solved, on pi'inciples of his own, the mo-
tions and figures of the planets, the paths of
WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
69
the comets, and the ebbing and flowing of the
tides. He also discovered the dissimilarity of
the rays of light, and the properties of colors
from them arising, which none but himself
had ever thought of; that he was diligent,
wise, and fliithful as an interpreter of nature,
antiquity, and the Holy Scriptures; by his
philosophy he maintained the dignity of the
Supreme Being, and by the purity of his life,
the simpUcity of the Gospel. The inscription
concludes with a beautiful exclamation, " How
much reason mortals have to pride themselves
in the existence of such a great man, an orna-
ment to the human race." He was born De-
cember 25th, 1642, and died March 20th,
1726. The time was fast approaching for us
to leave, when we paused several moments
in the chapel, to unite with those who
gather there for vespers. The quiet that
prevailed made the stillness painful, and
the few voices sounded sepulchral. The last
spot at which we lingered was the Poets' Cor-
ner, where names, as familiar as household
words, greeted us, the fragrance of whose
memory perfumed the very air with the
breath of poetry, music, genius, and high-
70 L K A F L E T S .
born gifts. Milton, Gray, Sliake.speare, Gold-
smith, Handel, Addison, Ben Jonson, Thom-
son, and scores of others, completing a
luminous galaxy.
•• Tlieso by Heaven, and not a master, taught,
Whose art was Nature, and whose pictures thouj^ht."
Now, glancing a flirevvell through this
monumental palace — where all day long we
had been patrons of dead merit — we listened
if we might catch the piean note as it echoed
along the dusty highway of the past, answer-
ing back in these gloomy aisles. The magic
presence of buried greatness seemed to en-
shrine itself within the depths of my inner
life, and there haunt me with eager aspira-
tions and lofty longings, as represented in the
well remembered lines of Longfellow :
'• Lives of great men all remind us
We may make our lives sublime;
And departing, leave behind us
Footprints on the sand of time."
CHAPTER YII.
THK I'AKKS A N i) T O \V K K OF LONDON.
May 2%d.
To-day we have been breathing through
the great hmgs of London — Hj^de Park,
Regent's Park and St. James' Park — which
have afforded us a charming opportunity to
vsee the "dash and splash" of London life.
Oh ! the glitter and dazzle of livery, and the
rosy hue and smiling freshness of English
beauty, crow^ded out of the palpitating heart
of the overflowing city, to swell and expand
into vigorous life. In these refreshing open-
ings, the pure breath of heaven freely fans,
with its cooling zephyrs, alike the brow of toil
and of luxury. Hyde Park is less artificial,
and more rural than all the others. The ven-
erable trees of many winds and winters cast
their thick, heavy shadows along the pathway
of honest industry. On an abundance of
green grass, which forms a velvet-like carpet,
72 LEAFLETS.
hundreds of children come out every day to
hop and ski}), and dance and romp, and play,
and tumble head over heels, as freely and un-
restrained as the air they breathe. The aris-
tocracy of London monopolize the carriage-
course to display costly equipages, prancing
steeds, and rich, goi'geous apparel. The co-
lossal statue of Achilles, erected by the ladies
as a memorial to the "Iron Duke," at a cost of
ten thousand pounds, and cast from a dozen
twenty-four pounders, weighing more than
twenty tons, adds a great deal of interest to
the Park. In llegent's Park, the Zoological
Gardens are the centre of attraction, which are
filled with "all manner of four-footed beasts,
and creeping things, and fowls of the air," from
the tiny insect to the elephant and huge rhi-
noceros. In the Botanical Gardens, native
loveliness mingles her perfumes with those of
rich exotics, and the skillful hand of science,
day by day, is scattering those leaves for the
"healing of the nations."
St. James' Park is most exquisitely adorned
with much of natural and artificial loveliness.
Oh! how I loved that little lake, where the
snowy swans were reposing in such giaceful
PARKS OF LONDON. 73
attitudes ! and I am sure of pardon if I say
my fond heart still clings to that little gem
of an isle, a jewel in the centre of the lake,
with its rustic cot so lovingly peeping from
beneath the leaves and shrubbery — a fitting
nook for water-nymphs to twine wreaths for
fiiries, and dream and revel there continually.
As we were leisurely walking around, I was
tempted just to take one leaf to carry home
as a souvenir, and, reaching up my hand to
pluck, not the forbidden fruit, but one single
leaf from a tree, the branches of which were
hanging over my head, at the same instant I
heard a voice from behind me saying, '' Com-
mit no depredations on these grounds !" My
hand dropped, as if instantly palsied. I
turned around to acknowledge, and surrender
myself a prisoner, expecting to encounter the
stern and dignified air of one of Her Most
Gracious Majesty's ''blue-coats and bright
buttons" (a policeman) ; but to my agreeable
surprise, I will assure you, there stood Mr.
and Mrs. T , who crossed the ocean with
us ; their presence, aside from quieting my
fears, was as refreshing as the dew of a sum-
mer evening, they seemed to us like old
74 LEAFLETS.
friends, and together ^ye walked and talked
of our dear homes, and the piecious heart-
jewels, far away over the sea, until the hell
ran<i: ior us to leave the Park.
It was quite early in the morning when
we found ourselves dashing down the streets
of London in a Hanson, the vehicle I prom-
ised to descrihe to you : It is drav/n by
one horse, with a high dash in the front of
the carriage to prevent accident from the
horse's heels. Onl}^ two persons can be ac-
commodated in the interior, which is en-
tered in front of the wheels, almost in the
ground. As we enter, the driver folds to-
gether two Avooden doors on their hinges, and,
after we take our seats, they are closed snug-
ly over us, with only our head and arms above
them. The top surmounts the two wheels, at
the back of which the driver sits, perched up
high in a little box-like seat, the reins ex-
tending over the projecting cover of the car-
riage. On the whole, the}* are a great novelty
to Americans. As we rode along this morn-
ing, the immense sea of human beings con-
stantly ebbing and flowing through the great
thoroughfares of the city — the world of om-
PARKS" OF LONDON. 75
iiibusses, drays, carts, cabs and carriages — the
streets and alleys — the shops and stores,
dwellings and public buildings, are all begin-
ning to look so familiar to me that I can
hardly imagine I have been here so short a
time. At length we reached tlie famous Old
Tower of London, at the entrance of which
we were shown a small room, where we were
to obtain our tickets, and wait until a party of
eight or ten had gathered to accompany us.
The space inclosing the Tower is surrounded
by walls, with a moat or ditch, which is
spanned at each entrance by a bridge, and
within this inclosure there is quite a little
town, covering nearly twelve acres, con-
taining several hundred inhabitants. The main
structure, or Tower, is square, surmounted at
its four corners with turrets. Our escort was
one of the yeomen of the guard, dressed in the
gay livery of the times of Henry the Eighth :
a hat of black velvet, trimmed with narrow rib-
bons of red and white. We first passed a chain
of small towers, where sentinels were perambu-
lating slowly to and fro on duty. The next
moment the old Tower stood up before us
like a grim witness of an age of crime and
7b LEAFLETS.
blood. In vain I attempted to suppress the
chill which came, Avith the recollection ot" the
stories of my childhood, wrought in fearful
and horrible pictures of the murders, execu-
tions and imprisonments in this Tower, while
the roll of years had faded, hut not effaced,
their crimson coloring; but, as we were lean-
ing against those hoary walls, and looking
down from the glorious pinnacle of England's
present prosperity and pride, into the dark
shadows that fall upon this gloomy fixbric, in
its past history, we rejoiced in the change.
Now justice, liberty, intelligence and religious
refinement, with the radiance of their many
suns, dispel the darkness and terrors of the
terrific night of '' Iron Rule."
The exterior is less gloomy than 1 had an-
ticipated, and appeared to me only as a grand
memento of past conflicts and storms. We
proceeded to the entrance, which opens into
a long apartment, filled on both sides with
equestrian figures of life-size, and clad in full
armor of various periods, mounted on wooden
horses, elegantly caparisoned. Our warden,
with ludicrous importance, began very cere-
moniously to introduce us to each of these
PARKS OF LONDON. 77
kingly equestrians. All in the party seemed
struck with the appearance of the one repre-
senting Edward the First, the effigy being
covered with chain-mail, ingeniously con-
structed of a number of little rings, which in-
terlace each other, forming a connected gar-
ment or net-work of steel. We soon wearied
in trying to closely examine half of them ; but
as we gave a passing look, our yeoman con-
tinued to call out the names of this august
senate, repeating a well-learned yarn of their
history and glory, in elaborate sentences, and
would-be scientific tones. Nearly all the
party had preceded him, and were spjdng out
every corner, and closely exainining the mili-
tary trophies and emblems that everywhere
adorn the ceilings, arranged in forms of suns^
crescents, and stars, glittering brightly with
guns, swords, lances, and spears, which also
cover, in curious devices, the pillars and
arches. We were shown an Irish weapon
called a spath, found near the Giant's Cause-
way, and the British battle-axe, found in the
river Thames. Other ca-es were filled with
lances, helmets, curious daggers and powder-
horns, and thousands of warlike implements.
78 LEAFLETS.
We were almost lost in the perfect wilderness
of arms. When some of our party had
reached the further end of the room, our yeo-
man suddenly became awai e that he had an
audience of only two or three, and was in
great dani^er of expendin<i; his flow of elo-
quence on the silent and motionless audience
of equestrians. He stopped for a moment his
studied tones, and screamed out at the top of
his voice, '' Stop there, 1 say." Findin^^ it im-
possible to recall them, he hastened on to lead
the way to the apartments known as Queen
Elizabeth's aiinory, calling our attention, as
w^e passed up the stairs, to the immense thick-
ness of the walls, careful at the same time to
impress us with the fact that we were nc^t al-
lowed to precede him. At the extreme end
of this room is a figui'e of the proud queen,
mounted on a splendidly carved horse, and at-
tired in a dress, said to have been woin
by her when living, which is gorgeously mag-
nificent. Her page, a pretty little lad, stands
by her side, and is in the act of holding her
horse by the bridle. We now passed through
rooms and pris(ms replete with the menuu'ie.s
of gloomy and fearful events. I trembled a»
TOWER OF LONDON. 78
I looked at the identical block, and with eyes
dimmed with tears, examined the marks made
by the ax which severed the head from
the body of the beautiful Anne Boleyn,
who, a few hours before her execution,
placed her delicate hands around her neck,
consoling herself with the idea that it was
so slender that one stroke would sever it.
This is the same block which was used
when Lady Jane Grey was beheaded. How
it made the blood rush to my brain as
I recalled her transparent innocency, and
wondered for a moment why a just God
did not interfere in vengeance. As we
continued our tour, we recalled the periods
when, according to history, this citadel was
an impregnable fortress, defying the assaults
of foreign foes ; then changed into a palace,
which witnessed the magnificent festivities
of royalty, among which were the brilliant
tournaments of Henry the Seventh's day, and
the joyful but short-lived entertainments of
the infamous Henry the Eighth, that were
enacted here during the early part of his
reign.
Passing from the Tower into the open
7
80 LEAFLETS.
court-yard, we stood upon the very spot where
the block was placed at the time of executions.
With what distinctness the last words uttered
by the lovely Anne Boleyn came from the
past to me, "0 Father! O Father! Thou art
the truth, and the life, Thou knowest I have
not deserved this death." She was born in
England in 1507, but at an early age removed
to France, and was there connected with the
French Court, where her beauty and accom-
plishments rendered her very attractive. She
returned to England in 1526, and became
maid of honor to Katharine of Aragon, the
first wife of Henry the Eighth, of England ; the
king lell deeply in love with her, and man-
aged to annul his marriage with Katharine,
marrying Anne on the 14th of November,
1532. But, alas! three short years closed up
her queenly career, for the charms of one of
her maids of honor in turn alienated the af-
fections of the King. But hers was a more
terrible fate. Accused of high treason, she
was condemned and committed to this Tower,
from which she was soon after led to the
block standing on this spot, where she
prayed for the King, infamous as he was, say-
TOWER OF LONDON. 81
ing " he had raised her to the highest dignity
of this world, and then he was sending her
to be a saint in heaven." Still attesting her
innocence in the thrilling words I have writ-
ten, and hoping for no redress, she calmly
submitted to her fate. But a voice still more
lovely sounds on my ears, as I linger on this
spot ; it is the voice of Lady Jane Grey, as she
kneels on the scaffold, and offers up this
brief prayer: "Lord, into Thy hands I com-
mend my spirit," then meekly bowed to meet
her death. The memories of her virtues
have ever excited admiration, and her end
the deepest sympathy. She was born at
Bradgate, in Leicestershire, in 1537, inherit-
ing royal blood by both her parents. She
was thoroughly educated and accomplish-
ed. When a mere child, she could write and
speak French, Italian, Latin, and Greek with
great fluency; she was also endowed with
a rare talent for music, which was cultivated
with care. She married Lord Gifford Dud-
ley, and through the misconcerted plans of
her father-in-law, she was induced, contrary
to her own wishes, to ascend the throne of
England, as successor of Edward the Sixth.
82 LEAFLETS.
The crown would have been rightfully hers,
had not Henry the Eighth, in his will, re-
voked the decree that had annulled the mar-
riages of the mothers of the princesses Mary
and Elizabeth. The royal diadem pressed
her fair brow only nine days, when the
nation declared Mary queen, who was the
eldest daughter of Henry the Eighth. Lady
Jane and her youthful husband were imme-
diately committed to the Tower, and on the
walls of her prison she wrote these lines,
which are still visible :
•' HarmlorfH all malice, if our God is nigh;
Fruitless all pains, if He His help deny,
Patient I pass these gloomy hours away,
And wait the morning of eternal day."
She saw her husband led to the execution,
and soon alter followed him, without breath-
ing a complaint of the unjustness of her pun-
ishment, or its severity, subjecting her to such
a cruel liate at the early age of seventeen.
Passing from this, we inquired for the chamber
in which the two princes were smothered, a
sacrifice to the murderous ambition of Richard
the Third, and the place where bloody Mary
afterward held her Court. It must have been a
TOWER OF LONDON.
83
strange power, thought I, that changed this
Tower from a fortress to a paUice, and from
a palace to a prison. But hapi)ier and l)right-
er years have at Last let fall a curtain over
such tragic and mournful scenes, which, God
grant, may never rise again. We have now
only to visit the Jewel Room, which we can-
not leave without seeing. In this apartment
the crowns and sceptres of EnglamVs kings
and queens are kept, which we found lying
on a stand inclosed in an immense iron
cage, where we could look at, hut not touch
then'i. Here is the crown which was worn
by Victoria, at her coronation, and is al-
ways carried on a cushion before her when she
goe^ to open Parliament, and on other State
days. It is a cap of royal purple velvet in-
closed in hoo^s of silver, surmounted by a
ball and cross, and resplendent with diamonds.
In the centre of the cross is a costly sapphire,
and on the front of the crown is a heart-
shaped ruby, said to have been worn by the
Black Prince. Here is also the Prince of
Wales' crown of pure gold, thickly studded
with the rarest jewels. Among these royal
ornaments, is the pointless sword of Mercy ;
7*
84
LEAFLETS.
the two swords of Justice, of solid gold;
the queen's golden sceptre ; the vessels used
at the coronation; the baptismal fount, from
which the royal children are christened, to-
gether with the magnificent sacramental ser-
vice
CHAPTER Vni.
ACADEMY OF ARTS— MADAME TISSAI.D'S (JALLERY
— C I T Y R O A 1 ) C H A 1' E E— S T . 1' A U L ' S .
Afaij 24:th.
I HAVE spent nearly all da}- in the Royal
Academy of Arts, situated on Trafalgar
Square, and in the east wing of the National
Gallery. It is a school, or academy of design,
for the special use of students in the fine arts,
whose works are presented annually to the
public on exhibition. I had spent a day in
these rooms once before, but on leaving them
felt that I was just commencing to appreciate
these superb works of modern artists. Pass-
ing through the rooms filled with statuary,
** Melancholy" and '' Mirth," represented by
two female figures, arrested my attention as
being very beautiful; one a pensive nun,
devout, sober, steadfast, and demure, very
strikingly contrasts with the g?iy creature
^' Mirth." who seems to say,
" Come and trip it as we go,
On the light fantastic toe."
86 L E A F L E T S .
'' Jephthah and his Dautrhter" pleased me
much; the father's attitude is that of a brave,
stei'ii warrior; the gentle maiden leans grace-
fully and coniidingly on his shoulder. One is
almost ready to go off in an ecstacy of delight
looking at a chuljjjy baby just taken from its
bath; its little dimpled form, of perfect sym-
metry, appears to press into the marble as if
it Avere a downy pillow, and the little rogue
uplii'ts in one hand a white lilly, which it has
brought from the bath with so much of baby
triumph; I can hardly imagine this sculp-
ture to be excelled in truthfulness and beauty.
'Tiacere e dolore," "Swift and Slow Hours,"
the iigure which represents Swift Hours seems
ethereal, the hair long and flowing as if blown
by an invisible breath, and her garments
gracefully loose, with a vail of vapory texture
thrown over her, without concealing the fea-
tures, producing an extraordinary effect ; and,
with outstretched arms, she seems to glide
into time's rushing current. " Slow Hours " is
repi'esented by a luxuriant being, fallen asleep
in a bed of roses. Oh! how sweetly, slowly,
and silently glide the moments by. Nidia. —
One standing b}^ the side of this piece of mar-
AOADEEY OF AKTP. 87
ble, listens, expecting to hear the blind
flower girl of Pompeii say, "buy my flowers,
buy ' " " Maidenhood " is a fine figure, such
as represented by Longfell.jw, in the following
lines :
"Stamling with rcluctaiil fcet,
Where the brook and river meet,
Womanhood and cliildhood fleet!
Gazing with a timid ghince,
On the brooklet's swift advance,
On the river's broad expanse! "
In all, there are one hundred and fifty
pieces of statuary, each interesting in design,
and well executed.
The Picture Gallery, which I next passed
to examine, does honor to English artists.
The picture representing St. John leading
home his adopted mother, painted by W. Dyce
seems, at one look, to tell the whole Story oi
the Cross, and of our buried Lord. John and
Marv are coming in the fore-ground from the
sepulchre; one of Mary's hands is laid gently
in that of John's, and in the other she holds
the crown of thorns our Saviour wore, at
which she gazes sadly and mournfully; John
is looking at her with loving pity, as if the com-
mission given by Jesus, a few hour« since, was
88 LEAFLETS.
revolving in his mind, for wlien expiring on
the (;ro.ss, "Jesus said to the disciple stand-
ing by, whom He loved, behold thy mother!
and IVom that time that disciple took her to
his home.'' Other of his folloAvers are coming
from the tomb, which is in the back-ground,
where the two Marys still linger, while the
clouds, ominous of impending doom, hang
over the city. Here, also, I saw an excellent
picture of Wesley, the last century's great
revivalist, preaching at Epworth Church, Lin-
colnshire. It is painted by Brownlow, from
the scenes in John Wesley's Journal, June 6th,
1742, who said, "1 stood near the east end of
the Church, upon my father's tomb-stone, and
cried, 'The kingdom of heaven is not meat
and drink, but righteousness, and peace, and
joy in the Holy Ghost.'" It is represented so
life-like, one can almost imagine they are
in the throng that crowd around him, listen-
ing to the burning words that fell from his
lips, touched with hallowed lire. The hour
of closing came, and I was obliged to leave
this interesting place, where I might have
spent hours longer, and even days, pleasantly.
Having heard much of Madame Tussaud's
ACADEMY OP ARTS. 89
Gallery of Wax Figures, admitted by all to
combine good taste and genius in their life-
like representations, we entered one lovely
evening — they appearing to better advantage
by gas-light — and it seemed like suddenly be-
ing ushered into the presence of the living
forms of the renowned of earth.
In a small room adjoining the one we en-
tered is a shrine in honor of the illustrious
Duke of Wellington, whose waxen figure is
reposing on his tent-couch, under a gorgeous
canopy of velvet, and cloth of gold. His
mantle of the Order of the Garter, so nobly
worn, is thrown over him, displaying its rich
folds, and surrounding him are the emblems
of dignity and greatness, rendering it a
magnificent memorial. We next visited a
large room, which was perfectly thronged
with the illustrious of different periods and
countries. The groups in the centre of this
room represent the Courts of England and
France, in full state dress, being a grand per-
sonification of royalty. So graceful and easy
are the attitudes of these figures, whether
sitting, standing or reclining, one can hardly
imagine that their smiles and pretty dimples,
90 LEA F L E 'J' S .
and perfectly-nioulded forms, are not real.
Madame St. Amaranthe. said to have been
the most beautiful woman in France, who was
hurried into eternity in the attack made on
the Tuilleries, August 10th, 1792, by Robes-
pierre, during the Reign oi" Terror, is repre-
sented I'eposing, in full dress, having fallen
asleep with (me arm under her head, and, by
some ingenious mechanism, her figure is
made to breathe —
''The very life seems warm upon her lips;
The lixture of lier eye has motion in't!''
As we were admiring this beautiful wo-
man in wax, we observed an old lady
sitting in a chair near us, dressed in black,
looking through a pair of gold spectacles, and
holding in her hand a snuff-box, which was
open, as if she was just in the act of taking
a pinch. One of our company, who had de-
tected this splendid fraud, wishing to see how
far it could be practiced on others, spoke in
a low tone to me, to take care and not allow
that old woman to soil my dress with her
snuff. I thanked him, and quietly stepped
aside. But I was never so completely and
ACADEMY OP" ARTS. 91
thoroughly sold tas when I ascertained that
this old woman was also wax, and the cata-
loiTue in niv hand introduced her as Madame
Tussaud, the prim lady of the establishment.
In a moment or two, as we had advanced a
few steps, it fortunately became my turn to
discover a perfect deception, when I said to
the gentleman '' Do you recognize that old
man yonder who is bowing to you?" He
turned quickly and politely returned the bow,
when, to his surprise, and greatly to my
amusement, he saw that the venerable old
man with' broad-brim hat, in bowing, was
doing the honors of this silent group, and not
by his own volition.
The little catalogue we had purchased at
the door as we proceeded, made us acquainted,
by name and person, with kings and queens,
lords and ladies, princes and princesses, dukes
and duchesses, peers and peeresses, marquis
and marchioness, generals, reformers, divines,
philosophers, poets and artists, in all two hun-
dred figures, as large as life, and in full dress,
representing the most brilliant personages
that have adorned the annals of any age. 1
fancied T had seen John Knox and Mar-
8
92 LEAFLETS.
tin Luther, and John Calvin, their peisonal
appearance and expression seemed so truth-
fully the index of their characters ; but I was
not so well pleased with the figure represent-
ing John Wesley. Reaching the centre of
the room we came into the presence of Henry
the Eighth, dressed in a magnificent suit of
armor. His little son, afterward Edward the
Sixth, was standing near him ; also his two
daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, who, after
their brother's death, in turn both became
queens. Standing around the King, are his
vsix wives, clad in queenly robes : Catherine
of Aragon, the mother of Queen Mary ; Anne
Boleyn, mother of Queen Elizabeth ; Jane
Seymour, the mother of King Edward the
Sixth; Anne of Cleves, Catharine Howard, and
Catharine Parr. Two of these fair beings
this infamous tyrant caused to be beheaded.
His reign of thirty-seven years blackened
the page of English history in the sacrifice
of thousands of lives to accomplish his wilful
purposes ; his daughters, particularly Mary,
followed his example. I turned from this
group with disgust and pity, only, however,
to admire another, who are the pride and
MAI), tussaud's gallery. 93
glory of England, which, Heaven grant, may
grow up in integrity and virtue :
Her Most Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria.
Albert, Prince Consort.
The Duchess of Kent, the Queen's honor-
able mother. The royal family consisting of
nine children — England's honest pride — whose
names are as follows :
Victoria Adelaide Maiy Louisa ; Albert Ed-
ward, Prince of Wales ; Alice Maud Mary ;
Alfred Ernest Albert ; Helena Augusta Vic-
toria ; Louisa Carolina Alberta ; Arthur Wil-
liam Patrick Albert ; Leopold George Duncan
Albert ; Beatrice Mary Victoria Feodore.
As we turned, well pleased, from England's
royalty, we felt quite at home as we came in-
to the presence of our own honored Geoi-ge
Washington, and it was with a feeling of min-
gled pride and joy that we read over his ma-
jestic form the well-known inscription — " First
in peace, first in war, and first in the hearts
of his countrymen !" By his side, as a noble
companion, stood Benjamin Franklin. In a
room called the Golden Chamber, filled with
Napoleonic relics, we saw the bedstead used
by the Emperor during seven years of his
94 LEAFLETS.
exile at St. Helena, and the mattres.s and pil-
low on which he died. We were allowed to
sit in his favorite chair and enter the military
carriage in which he made the campaign of
Russia — the internal arrangements are so
constructed, tliat he could adjust it for a
l:ed, on which he slept comfortably; then,
into a saloon, where he feasted sumptuously
at times ; then into a library, containing his
books and maps, and writing-desk, wnth its
secret drawers. It was in this w^onder-
ful carriage that he sketched some of his
most successful plans. Here is, also, the coro-
nation coach, with the one used during his
exile ; and many other interesting and valu-
able relics, all of which are well authenticated,
and valued at several thousand pounds. The
last room we visited was the Chamber of
Horrors, in which there is a reproduction of
many of the most bloody murders and mur-
derers the world ever knew. These ferocious,
tiger-like physiognomies almost stupefied me
with terror ; and while we lingered a few
moments in this room, the gas was suddenly
extinguished, leaving us with only a glim-
mering taper to grope our way through these
CITY ROAD CHAPEL. 95
horrid, bloody representations of men whose
names are recorded in history as the guiltiest
of the guilty.
This day is embalmed in holy memories —
a sparkling gem in the cup of immortality,
" Like the drops of ciystal dew which the win.irs of nu^t-h scatter.
When, on a bright Sabbath morn, their plumes quiver most with
dehght."
At an early hour in the morning, we were
wending our way to the City Road Chapel,
to attend morning-service. In the congrega-
tion were two old ladies, dressed in the style
of primitive Methodists. At the close of the
exercises we introduced ourselves to them,
and learned that they retained a distinct re-
collection of the Wesleys and their coadjutors.
They are two of the few links remaining to
connect the past of Methodism with the
present. Though aged, they were firm in the
faith, giving glory to God. After the congre-
gation left, we took this opportunity to ex-
amine the interior of the Chapel, and read
the record of the pious dead, as inscribed on
tablets inserted in these venerable walls. The
arched chancel, back of the pulpit, is div^ided
8*
96 LEAFLETS.
into compartments ; in the centre, in gilt
lettering, is the Lord's Prayer, the Ten Com-
mandments and the Apostles' Creed ; on the
left side are tablets to the memory of John
Wesley, Josepli Benson and Robert Watson ;
on the right, to Charles Wesley, Thomas
Cooke and Adam Clarke. The Sexton con-
ducted us into the house, standing near the
church, where Benson lived when he w^rote
his valuable Commentaries, and showed us
the room in which he died. On the opposite
side is the parsonage, built under the direc-
tion of Mr. Wesley, where he lived many
years during the latter part of his life.
The house has four stories, having the same
plain and substantial appearance as the
church. The rooms are convenient!}' ar-
ranged, so that each floor can be used as a
suit of rooms for a minister's family. Few
relics of the furniture are left. The chair in
which he sat ('nly a few moments previous
to his death, and the bedstead wdiereon he
died, are preserved as sacred relics.
It w\as a holy, pleasure to stand in the room,
"the chamber where the good man met his
fate, a privilege above the common walks of
CITY ROAD CHAPEL. 97
life, quite on the verge of heaven." Here,
sixtv'-nine years ago, the golden cord that had
for eighty-seven years bound him to a life of
u>;efulness, snapped asunder, and just as his
lyre was resting on earth, the last note blend-
ing with the new and triumphant song, the
deathless spirit still fluttered on his lips to
utter his last words which trembled on the
air of heaven, and have since resounded
thr.'Ugh the world, ^^tlte hest ot all, God is
with t/5."
At three o'clock we went to St. Paul's Ca-
thedral. On entering, we found a small portion
of the nave fenced in like a sheep-fold, in
which the congregation was to be pent up
during service. As my eye ran over this
temple, I thought what a magnificent scene
twelve thousand true worshippers filling
this Cathedral would present ! We secur-
ed our seats, and soon after the Lord Mayor,
with his brilliantly-dressed retinue, came
in, and were seated, also a great many judges
and barristers, with periwigs and fantastic
dress. The opening services, reading prayers,
singing and chanting were conducted with a
great deal of pomp and ceremony. A vener-
98 LEAFLETS.
able gentleman passed very near where we
were sitting, and entered the pulpit, with a
bouquet in his hand, which he placed by the
Bible. It was Melville. He at once gave out
the text, "But the natural man receiveth not
the things of the spirit of God; for they are
Jbolishness to him; neither can he know them,
because they are spiritually discerned." His
voice thrilled me like melodious music as I
gazed upon him, most happily disappointed,
for I had expected to see a serious, grave old
man, with a ^^ memento mori^^ kind of face.
On the contrary, every 'angle of his counten-
ance glowed with the intelligence and benig-
nity of an angel; his gray hair eminently "a
crown of glory;" his arguments w^ere pro-
found; his illustrations clear as a sunbeam,
which rendered the sermon eloquent and
evangelical. What divine lustre ! What a
halo of glory encircles the inner life, when
thus the things of God are spiritually dis-
cerned.
At an early hour, in the evening, Mr. N
preached in the City Road Chapel, the Cathe-
dral of Methodism before alluded to. I hum-
bly prayed that he might be inspired, and
ST. paul'vS. 99
deeply embued with the spirit that lived and
breathed in the holy men who had preached
in that pulpit: such as the Wesleys, Adam
Clarke, Cooke and Benson, together with the
immortal Whitfield. After the sermon we
tarried for the sacrament ; in the even-
ing, and in this sacred Chapel, to me it
was an impressive and thoughtful hour. Mr.
N was invited by the ministers to assist
in the administration of the elements, but de-
clined, and, for the first time in our lives, we
kneeled side by side around the Lord's table ;
and as the cup pressed my lips, I prayed earn-
estly, saying: '^ my Father, grant that in the
day thou shalt come to make up thy jewels,
we may together drink it anew in the kingdom
of heaven."
CHAPTER IX
U 1 \ [)SOH CASTLE— II K use II i: I,' S (i R.\ VK — GR A Y 'S
i:i,E(JV — AX ENGLISH FAMILY.
May 21th.
At an early hour we took a train for Wind-
sor Castle, about twenty miles irom Lon-
don. This Palace is at present Her Majesty's
most magnificent and charming summer resi-
dence. As we left London, for several miles
the view appeared like one continuous city ;
but at length nature looked out and smiled
upon us, all robed in green, and adorned with
luxui-iant fields of grain, inclosed by fine
rounded hedges; then heavy forests, or little
groves and parks; thrifty farm-houses, with
plenty smiling at their doors ; and beauty and
loveliness in all the landscape. The first
glimpse I caught of this renowned Castle, as
it crowned one of nature's grand and rocky
embattlements, its towers and walls loomed up,
like visions of airy castles seen in early dreams.
WINDSOR CASTLE. 101
As we approached, and winding around its
rocky height until we reached King Henry
the Eighth's gateway, the illusion vanished,
and reality, in massive walls, and lofty turrets,
looked down on us with all their weight of
years. The witching imagery which had be-
guiled many hours of early days, when my
own imagination had interwoven threads into
the history of this venerable Castle, now^ came
up to demand their truthfulness. At the en-
trance, the first thing my eye rested on was a
formal line of military knights, Avho were
standing as stiff and motionless as wooden
men, entirely upsetting my cherished ideas of
chivalrous knighthood. As w^e advanced,
wdiat grandeur and untold wealth greeted us !
Her Majesty not being there, we were allow-
ed to pass through all the state and private
apartments, except her sleeping rooms.
The Audience Chamber is gorgeous in
decorations, the walls are hung in Gobelin
Tapestry, wrought in significant representa-
tions in the life of Queen Esther. The ceil-
ing is an allegorical painting of Queen Kath-
arine, personifying Britannia, who is seated
in a chariot drawn by swans, and attended by
102 LEAFLETS. ^^
#1
Flora, bound for the Temple oi Virtue, which
is represented in the distance. There are
many other rooms crowded with interest and
beauty, which would l^eggar my powers of de-
scription; such as the Van Dyck Room, with
its walls of portiaits and pictures; the Queen's
Drawing Room, hung with crimson silk dam-
ask; the Waterloo Chamber; the Presence
Chamber, with its heavy carved doors, open-
ing in the Throne Room. Then came the
Waterloo Gallery, and St. George's Hall, the
furniture of which is solid gilt, such as royal-
ty repose upon. There is heraldry enough
displayed in one of these rooms to furnish
study for months. In the last room we enter-
ed, we saw many old relics, and unique
specimens of workmanship. On leaving, v,e
passed down the grand stair-case which com-
municated with the hall beneath, then into
the vestibule, which is forty-seven feet in
length, and twenty-eight in width, and richly
decorated.
We gained access to the Chapel connected
with the Palace, the interior of which is re-
markably beautiful. The pavement is inlaid
in diamond shapes of black and white mar-
WINDSOR CASTLE. lOB
ble ; the varied tracery on the ceilings ; the
displa}^ of banners and heraldry ; the chair of
the Sovereign, canopied with rich velvet, em-
broidered with gold; the grand organ, to-
gether with the
"Storied windows richly diglit,
Casting a dim religious light,"
all inspire admiration and reverence; yet I
trembled with horror when I found myself
standing over the dust of the infamous Henry
the Eighth, who is here interred ; but mother
earth has avenged his tyranny, having held
his form in her mouldering arms for nearly
three hundred years, giving him no power to
sway the usurper's sceptre. At the farther
end of the same Chapel is the wonderful ceno-
taph to the memory of the Princess Charlotte,
which never fails to call forth the warmest
expressions of enthusiasm. The spirit is
represented as having just left the form, which
is below embedded in the cold marble; the
agony of the death-struggle seems to have left
its impress, as fearfully revealed beneath the
thin sheet which wraps the entire body, ex-
cept one hand. Four female figures, in mourn-
ful attitudes, kneel around the dead body,
9
104 LEAFLETS.
with their heads covered. Just above there
is another group, the centre figure represent-
ing the spirit of the Princess ascending to
lieaven, supported and attended by two angels,
one of which is folding gently in its arms
the spirit of the infiint,
*' The tiny flower, wliose fatal birth,
Destroyed the parent stem."
The rays of light falling from a window of
orange and purple, and resting on the spirit-
ual forms of the ascending group, produces a
celestial effect.
Windsor Castle, with its vast pile of archi-
tecture and spacious court-yards, extends over
an area of not less than thirty acres. The
terrace on the north affords an extensive pros-
pect, comprising a variety of pleasing views,
consisting of meadows, dense forests, sun-
lit hills, noblemen's mansions, and ancient
castles and towers, to which may be added
the river Thames — as if conscious of its im-
portance — winding its way through shaded
valleys, until lost in the dim distance. Leav-
ing this terrace, we ascended over one hun-
dred steps, to the top of the old round
tower, which is an extraordinary structure,
WINDSOR CASTLE. 105
and an imposing feature of the Castle. In
1C69 it was used as a prison, but at present is
merely looked at as a relic. On reaching the
top we gained a view of the Great Park, the
Virginia Water, and the romantic scenery of
Surrey hills. As soon as we descended, we
took leave of the Castle and grounds, and se-
curing an open carriage, drove out of the
town.
The first object of interest that attracted
our attention was Eaton College, and its ex-
tensive grounds, in which we saw hundreds
of boys, all, even to the smaller ones, w^ear-
ing tall stove-pipe hats, and engaged in all
manner of gymnastic sports. The roads were
in excellent order, and the drive a charming
one. The trees, and every shrub, were gay
amid their bloom; while the glad sun-light
and fresh breeze diffused beauty and joyous-
ness on all our w^ay ; and could we but rejoice
with nature in all her loveliness 7 The zephyrs
scattered the yellow flowers of the laburnum
trees very unceremoniously into our faces, as
they went skimming through the air as thickly
as snow-flakes. We stopped a few moments
and wandered among the old graves, whose
106 LEAFLETS.
green mounds still surround the quaint Nor-
man Church at Upton. Here, we are told,
that llerschel is buried, in whose memory I
broke a sprig from a venerable, yet singularly
knotted yew tree,whose outspreading branches
must have defied the ])lasts of centuries.
As we continued our ride, we reached a
place called Slough, the residence of Herschel,
where he lived, and where he died ; he whose
name, as his immortal fame, will ever live
among the stars. In the open lawn of his
garden we saw the frame of the great teles-
cope, through which his eye had often wan-
dered into the vast expanse of blue, to revel
amid the steller hosts ; but now the spiritual
eye of this wonderful man, far in worlds
above, has no need of such an instrument to
assist his unlimited vision.
Leaving this thrillingly interesting place,
we entered a Park called the Elysian Fields,
where we saw hundreds of soft-haired fawns,
skipping and playing on the green grass, or
beside the meandering streams, and lovingly
nestling beneath the cooling shadows of the
trees. In this Park we passed the mansion,
the family residence ol William Penn.
GRAVE OF GRAY. 107
It was even-tide when we reached the con-
secrated shrine, and the long shadows were
stretching their slender arms across the fields,
as we stood beside the grave of the im-
mortal Gray, whose dust reposes beneath a
plain marble slab, in the shade of the old
Stuke Pogis Church, and under the '^ ivy-man-
tled tower," where
'•The Curfew tolls the knell of parting day,"'
The same slab, on which his name is in-
scribed, has long marked his mother's grave ;
and on it, beneath the thickly spreading
branches of a yew-tree, he wrote his imperish-
tal elegy. As we wandered in this seques-
tered church-yard, in fancy I could hear
''the moping owl complain to the moon," be-
cause our footsteps dared to "molest her an-
cient, solitary reign."
•' Beneath those rugged elms, that yew-tree's shade,
Where heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap,
Kach in his narrow cell forever laid,
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep."
In the open field, at a little distance,
England, proud of her son, now dead, hUs
erected a fine monument to his memory.
Climbing over a rude fence, we wended
9*
108 LEAFLETS.
through the tall, damp grass, until we were
near enough to read the brief, but truthful,
inscriptions, besides several quotations from
Ins immortal poetry.
I am agreeably disappointed in the man-
ners and social characters of the English
people. Even our landlady, who, at first,
seemed like a walking icicle, now appears
genial, and even loving. I had heard so much
about rank and caste, which, like a weight or
girdle, binds down society, and prevents the
social elements finding their own level, that
I had really supposed, in coming to London,
as far as society was concerned, it would he
like rushing into the midst of a winter of Al-
pine snows, that would perfectly wither all
the warmth of any loving heart. The appa-
rent coldness of every one did, for some time,
prevent a ftimiliar approach by the many let-
ters of introduction with which our friends had
kindly furnished us. But the truth is, that
we have, until within a few days, had more to
do with sight-seeing and names of those who
have lived ^'long ago," than with the people
and present of London. We decided, however,
to present a letter, given us by our good and
ENGLISH FAMILY. 109
noble friend, Dr. S , of New York, to Mr.
C , of London, who had himself twice visit-
ed America, once as a delegate to the Bi])le
Society ; and, at another time, in company
with his family, traveled through the United
States. We were, very soon after, invited
to dine with this family, which was gladly
accepted, as we were anxious to learn some-
thing of household joys around an English
hearth-stone. I assure you I can never find
words that will convey to you my apprecia-
tion of the generous welcome they gave us ;
how kindly and even lovingly they dealt with
our stranger hearts ; we were at once hemmed
by ''love's strong hold." We arrived there
about six o'clock P. M., and found that seve-
ral intelligent and refined persons, with two
or three ministers, and their wives, had been
invited to join us there. In a little time we
were summoned to surround the table, which
was loaded with all the luxuries that com-
plete a genuine English dinner. Our Ameri-
can temperance principles were, however,
somewhat shocked, on observing four glasses,
arranged at each plate, which were in turn
filled with wine and liquors. This is a jjre-
110 LEAFLETS.
vailing custom throughout all England. Even
the clergy, at the present day, retire to the
vestry, after service, to drink their glass of
wine and eat a piece of cake, which the Sex-
ton understands as one of his duties to pro-
vide.
CHAPTER X.
TOMB OF THOMSON — POPE'S G R OTT — II A \I I'TO V
COURT PALACE — CRYSTAL PALACK.
June bth. '
What pleasant memories have been awak-
ened to-day in recalling the past ! and how,
the moments have seemed to glide away amid
scenes of present loveliness ! To-day we have
been treading on classic ground. At Rich-
mond — in an old church-yard, where the birds
were singing sweetly, and the wild flowers
were blooming, and the tall, rank grass was
growing luxuriantly — there Thomson, the
poet, is sleeping peacefully. As w^e stood by
his grave, how his brilliant genius appeared
before us ! and his beautiful and soul-stirring
effusions, long treasured in our hearts, were
here recalled, in all their freshness.
Leaving Richmond, we came to Twicken-
ham, where Pope lived, w^rote and died, and
where his Grotto still remains, into which we
were only allowed to glance. At every step,
112 LEAFLETS.
we fancied we could catch the notes from his
immortal lyre. Even the leaves on the trees
growing in his garden, as they quivered or
rustled in the gentle breeze, were music to
his memory. His remains are in the village
church ; and there, on a monumental tablet,
erected to his memory, we found a medallion
head of the great poet, beneath which is this
peculiar and original inscription :
*'FOR ON'K WHO WOULD NOT BE IJURIEI) IN WESTMINSTER ABfJEY.
" Heroes and kings, your distance keep !
In peace let one poor poet sleep,
Who never flattered folks like you :
Let Horace blush, and Virgil, too!"
After riding a few miles along a charming
road, (and, by the way, all the roads are good
in the environs of London,) we arrived at
Hampton Court Palace, once a royal resi-
dence, built by Cardinal Wolsey, about the
year 1515, at the time he had attained the
summit of his power and glory. When it
was completed, it surpassed, in elegance and
in grandeur, all the palaces of England. King
Henry the Eighth, then on the throne, jeal-
ousy admiring its magnificence, one day asked
the Cardinal his intentions and his motives
HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 115
in building such a grand residence. The
Cardinal's keen penetration detected the de-
sign of the King in asking this question, as its
costliness had already excited the envy of the
Court. He quickly and ingenuously replied :
"that he had built a palace worthy of so
great a monarch, and that Hampton Court
Palace was the property of King Henry the
Eighth." The Cardinal's reply, a shrewd
stroke of policy on his part, is said greatly to
have pleased the proud and ambitious King,
who afterward bestowed upon him many fa-
vors, in return giving him the old and favor-
ite manor of Richmond, greatly to the annoy-
ance of the old servants of Henry the Seventh,
who considered Wolsey an upstart. From
this time, Hampton Court Palace became the
home of royalty, and during the reign of
Henry the Eighth, it was a constant scene of
brilliant display and extravagant festivity.
Edward the Sixth resided here during his
short reign. Queen Mary, and Philip of
Spain, passed their honeymoon here, in re-
tirement. Queen Elizabeth, also, lived here,
in " single blessedness," not willing to share
her glory with another. The death of Eliza-
^
114 LEAFLETS.
be til united the crowns of England and Scot-
land, when James the Sixth, of Scotland,
became, also, King of England, when this be-
came one of his favorite palaces ; and it was
here that his lovely Queen, Anna, died, in
1618. Charles the First, who succeeded him
and Queen Henrietta, fled to this palace, fear-
ful of the plague that was then raging in Lon-
don ; but, alas ! in a few years after, it proved
to be an asylum from a calamity more to be
dreaded than the plague. The clamor of in-
surrection, however, made this retirement
brief The turbulent spirit of the times caused
his crown to press painfully upon his throb-
bing brow; for shortly after which, he was
detained here, in splendid imprisonment, un-
til he effected an escape to the charming Isle
of Wight, when the fatal events of a few
months brought him to the scaffold — not un-
frequently the fate of Kings in those days.
William the Third did much to beautify these
grounds during his reign. George the First
held his court here ; while George the Second
and his Queen, Caroline, were the last sover-
eigns who resided at Hampton Court Palace.
There is no royal residence in England richer
HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 115
in thrilling historical events than this. How
closely interwoven with the history of this
palace is that of Queens Mary and Elizabeth,
who both spent many of their days here.
Mary, the eldest daughter of King Henry
the Eighth, was born, February, 1517, at
Greenwich. At the death of her half-brother,
Edward the Sixth, she was proclaimed Queen,
July, 1553, and in October of the same year
she was crowned. She was married to Philip
of Spain in 1554, and, as I have stated, they
spent a few weeks after their marriage in this
palace. Philip was several years younger
than Mary, and was very ambitious, expect-
ing, by this relation, to come in possession of
the crown of England, or, at least, to share
it jointly with the Queen. When she refused
both, he abandoned her and returned to Spain.
During Queen Mary's reign, persecutions raged
fiercely, and she was guilty of many shocking
deeds, which have, for all time, crimsoned a
name known only as '' Bloody Mary." Even
Cranmer — who, at one time was her benefac-
tor, and was the means of saving her life
when her father determined on her death,
because she adhered to her mother, and re-
10
IIG LEAFLETS.
fused to .sul)iiiit to him — as his only reward
for all this, she caused him to be Inirnt at the
stake, for no other reason than that he did
not religiously believe as she did. She died
as siie had lived, with but few to mourn her
death, November 7, 1558, in the forty-second
year of her age.- Elizabeth, who had sub-
mitted to her half-sister's cruel tyranny, by
being imprisoned several times, now proud-
ly ascended the throne. Her long reign is
known in history as the " Elizabethan Age,"
in which spring up names, still Hashing in
the world of learning, as brilliant meteors
or dazzling luminaries. What other age can
boast of such names as Spencer, Shakespeare,
Bacon, Raleigh, and many others, who gained
their celebrity during her reign ? Elizabeth
was herself a splendid scholar, endowed with
talents which were cultivated and refined by
education. She was commanding and grace-
ful in person, without beauty of face, except
an animated expression, and large, lustrous
eyes, which at times Hashed hre at those
who had incurred her displeasure. Her dis-
position was not considered amiable; never-
theless, she was a noble Queen. She refused
HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 117
every offer of marriage, as I have said, de-
claring tliat she was satisfied with her coro-
nation vows, which married her to the people
of her kingdom, choosing to be called in life,
and epithetcd in death, as the "Virgin
Queen." She was as firm a Protestant as
Mary was a Catholic. It is related of her
that, at one time, when pressed by a priest to
declare her opinion in regard to the real body
of Christ, in the holy wafer, she answered him
in an impromptu verse :
•' Christ was the word tliat spake it ;
Ht' took the bread and brake it ;
And what the Word did make it,
That I beUeve, and take it."
The greatest blot on the page of her queen-
ly history is the imprisonment and execution
of her cousin, Mary Queen of Scots. Her
innocence of the crime of which she was
charged, and her natural loveliness, will never
allow the stain to be fully erased from the
memory of Elizabeth. She died March 24th,
1602, at the great age of sixty-nine ^'Cars.
This palace still remains splendidly fur-
nished, every apartment bearing the impress
of its former grandeur. The walls are paint-
118 LEAFLETS.
ed in florid style, and many of the ceilings
are covered with allegorical figures, and ele-
gantly wrought wood-work, of curious design.
The walls are hung with over one thousand
paintings, many of them by the old masters.
In one of the rooms are the veritable car-
toons of Raphael, executed in the year 1520,
by an order of Pope Leo the Tenth, to deco-
rate the pontifical apartments of the Vatican,
when copied in tapestry. They represent a
series of incidents taken from the life of our
Saviour, and the acts of the Apostles. Ra-
phael was afterwai'd invited to Rome, and
introduced to the Pope, under whose patron-
age he developed those wonderful talents
which crowned him ''Prince of Painters,"
and gave him the well-known title of "Ra-
phael the Divine." He died at the early age
of thirty-seven, leaving his immortal painting
of the "Transfiguration" still wet on the can-
vas, which was carried before him to his
tomb, in the Pantheon at Rome. 1 must
acknowledge I felt a devotional yielding of
my knees, as 1 stood before what seemed to
be a kind oi' divinity of art, the wonderful
productions of his pure, celestial-like genius.
HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 119
I pray, do not, however, from my own enthu-
siastic acknowledgments, accuse me of pic-
ture-worship. To be an idolater before visit-
ing the mid-day splendors of art at the
Louvre, in Paris, or the Vatican, in Rome,
would, I am sure, be premature homage to
art. To do as the Romans do, is to bow be-
fore every painted daub, where there is the
famtest outline of a saint's head. I can never
thus kneel before the altars of superstition ;
but genius will ever maintain a holy altar,
before which I joy to bow.
I cannot leave this charming spot without
taking you with me, a few moments, at least,
into the grounds and gardens of the Palace.
The walks must be three miles in extent.
The buikling of itself covers an area of eight
acres. The broad avenues, formed by elms
and lime-trees, reach out in straight lines,
from the lake in the centre, trimmed to form
tunnels, and extending archways. The com-
pass and nurseryman's shears have changed
the graceful hollies and yews into peacocks,
birds and animals, and hundreds of curious
shapes and forms, which, in my opinion,
divests Nature of much of her beauty. I
10^^
120 LEAFLETS.
cannot think that it is the prerogative of art
to interfere to any extent with trees and
shrubs, except in a careful cultivation, allow-
ing them to grow free and graceful. By pay-
ing an English sixpence, we were permitted
to enter the green-houses, where still remain
a few rare plants, and some large orange-trees,
bearing fruit. The chief object of interest,
however, is the immense vine growing there,
the largest in all Europe, and thought by
many to be the largest in the world. The
main vme is over one hundred feet long, with
numerous branch-vines. In its season, it
abundantly supplies the royaP table with
thousands of clusters.
After amusing, pu/zling, and enjoying our-
selves trying to discover the intricacies of the
maze, or labyrinth, we lelt the ground> through
the magnificent ''Lion Gate," and emerged at
once into a grand forest of chesnut-trees, run-
ning off in broad avenues in every direction,
miles in extent, through which we passed on
our way home.
How I do wish that, for once, the sun would
shine out clear and bright, as it does in Amer-
ica. This impenetrable, misty vail, forever
CRYSTAL PALACE
121
hanging over us, is enough to give any one
the bhies. This unceasing, drizzling rain is
anything but agreeable to those who are sight-
seeing. Still, we do not allow the weather to
interfere with our plans; for, this morning, in
the rain, we jumped into an omnibus, and
rode to the depot, where we purchased our
tickets for Sydenham, and it was not long
before we were in sight of the magnificent
Crystal Palace. Our miniature Crystal Pal-
ace in New York, now reduced to ashes, was
only a mere toy in comparison to this mam-
moth transparent building, looming up before
us. Leaving the cars, we entered the Palace
by a glass-covered colonade, adorned on either
side with creeping vines, and an array of
flowering plants, into the immense structure,
which consists of a grand central naive and
two side aisles, two main galleries, three
transepts, and two wings. The entire length
of the building, including the wings, is two
thousand seven hundred and fifty-six feet.
There is excellent, as well as exquisite, taste
maniiested in the arrangement of the flowers,
of almost every hue and form, from every clime ;
while plants, shrubs and trees wave their fo-
122 LEAFLETS.
liage in harmony with other forms of beauty,
presenting a picturesque back-ground, reliev-
ing the white statues standing thickly grouped,
along the nave; while the blue aerial tint re-
flecting from the arched roof, renders an addi-
tional charm to the various industrial and art
courts. The whole building is grand and
conspicuous, tilled with almost every specimen
of art, in all its variety, from the most remote
ages down to modern times. I lingered long
to admire the "Alhambra Court," the miost
beautiful of all the reproductions of the an-
cient palaces. Its architecture is Saracenic or
Moresque, which sprang Ironi the Romanesque ;
the interior is gorgeously covered with the
richest Arabesque work, in colored stucco;
the pavement is Mosaic, in the centre of which
is a sparkling fountain, encircled with flow^ers,
perfuming the air with fragrance. This ele-
gant court is reproduced from the vast Fort-
ress-Palace of the Alhambra, constructed
under Moorish rule in the city of Granada,
South of Spain, in the thirteenth century.
Among the many w^onders we saw exhibit-
ed in this Palace that interested me most,
was the bark of an immense tree, which had
CRYSTAL PALACE. 123
been cut in pieces to facilitate transportation
such a distance. It is here arranged just as
it grew on the tree, which was once deeply
rooted in the soil oi' California, where it
attained the gigantic height of four hundred
feet. Fancy to yourself such a tree, with its
forest of branches and a canopy of foilage,
that must have appeared like the outspreading
of the curtain of heaven. The bark as it
now stands on the tloor, forms a room within
large enough to hold forty or fifty persons.
Dr. Lindley has named it the '' Wellingtonia
gigantia," and says that its age must be four
thousand years. A specimen of the wood was
also shown, which is light cedar, and as-
serted to be the same as the " Cedars of Leb-
anon." What a grand old tree this must have
been when Solomon built his beautiful temple
at Jerusalem 1 In the afternoon, four thousand
children, from the Orphan Asylum were ar-
ranged on graded seats under the central
dome, and at three o'clock P. M., an audience
of twentv thousand were assembled in front
of them, to listen to their singing. The pecu-
liarity of their dress, and the arrangement of
each school, made the sight a singular and
124 LEAFLETS.
pleasing one, and the waving of their hand-
kerchiefs in concert called forth the most en-
thusiastic demonstrations from the audience.
We were reminded of the new song of the
'' hundred, forty and f >ur thousand" on Mount
Zion, when all these little bird-like voices
joined in glad alleluiahs, swelling, as they
swept, in strains of seraphic music through
these extensive and lovely aisles, which ap-
peared all glorious, like unto the Temple
made without hands, of jasper stone, clear
as crystal. ''God save the Queen" found
a response in every heart; and Luther's
Judgment Hymn was extraordinary in its
effect, accompanied at intervals by a trum-
pet, which sounded loud and Icmg. After
these exercises closed, the fountains in the
Palace-grounds, which only play on grand oc-
casions, where allowed to send into the air
their thousand sparkling jets, to gratify these
dear little orphans. But heavy showers pre-
vented our examining the grounds carefully,
and we left with the promise to come at
another time.
CHAPTER XL
WHITFIELD'S CH A PEL— LOXDO N DO CKS — G RE EN W I CH
OBSERVATORY — NATIONAL GALLERY— BUN -
HILL FIELDS BURYING GROUNDS.
June Sth.
Last evening we heard the Rev. Mr. Pun-
shon lecture in Whitfield's Chapel, on Totten-
ham Court Road, a second Cathedral of
Methodism, the first stone of which was laid
May 10th, 1756, and opened for divine service
the following November, when the immortal
Whitfield chained an immense audience by
one of his soul-stirring discourses. Here his
wife is buried, and on a tablet in this Church,
erected to her memory, is also an inscription
to her husband's, whose dust still makes the
soil of New England sacred. We had hoped
and somewhat anticipated the counterpart of
the " Prince of Preachers " in the talented
Punshon, as suggested of him when he deliv-
ered his famous lecture on the Huguenots.
We confess to our disappointment, it proving
126 LEAFLETS.
at this time to bo l)y no means, one of his
happy efibrts.
To-day we ha^e vi>ited the great ware-
houses at the London Docks containing large
quantities of teas, tobacco and 'spices; also
the Avine- vaults, with an array of casks ex-
tending over acres, with Bacchus on his
throne, as supreuie monarch. Our guide led
us for miles through these damp vaulted hiby-
rinths, where pipe after pipe is piled up on
either side, and informed us that the atmos-
phere of the vaults is so impregnated with
the exhalations of the liquors, that persons
are often affected by it. We closely examin-
ed the fungus, a curious formation, w^hich
accumulates on these extensive walls, from
those exhalations, and hanging down, in many
places, in graceful festoons, some of which
were gray and some black, the gray or white
indicating the greater age of the Avine.
The warehouses were filled with wealth, in
tortoise and mother-of-peaid shells, elephant's
tusks, silks, Turkish carpets, and sugar, tea
and spices, appearing to be enough to supply
a nation, if not the world, for ages.
Having completed our tour at the London
GREENWICH. 127
Docks, we took a small steamer for Green-
wich, enjoying a charming sail on the Thames.
As soon as we arrived we proceeded to the Ob-
servatory, which is situated on an eminence
not far distant, one of the great light-houses
of the world of science. On our return, we
stopped at the Marine Hospital, where we
saw hundreds of old naval officers and soldiers,
many of whom had fought under the com-
mand of the brave Nelson, whose name and
memory they almost, if not quite, deify. It
was amusing and interesting to hear them re-
late their adventures, and then point from their
mutilated bodies to the trophies of their vic-
tories. At none of these relics did I gaze
with such a thrill of emotion as at the coat
and waistcoat worn by Nelson when he fell on
the quarter-deck of the " Victory " at the
memorable battle of Trafalgar, with the stains
of his death wound still visible upon them.
It is still dark and rainy, but I hie me
away for enjoyment to the National Gallery,
situated on the north side of Trafalgar
Square, looking out on the imposing monu-
ment erected to the memory of the hero who
fell at the place from which the Square de-
ll
128 LEAFLETS.
rives its name. Cloudy skies, with wind and
rain, were soon forgotten in this little world
of paintings, composing a choice collection,
and many of them by the celebrated old mas-
ters, as Correggio, Guido, Michael Angelo,
Murillo, Gasper, Titian, Van Dyck, Leonardo
du Vinci, and many others. While lingering
here I have been comparing the ^iictures of
these great artists of different schools; but
none seemed to me to combine such exquisite
taste, in shading and colors, with beauty and
truthfulness, as those of Murillo.
' There is music in the name,
And it falls upon my ear,
Like a lute-note, soft and clear —
Is it strange T love it so? "
This eminent painter belonged to the Spanish
school of the sixteenth century. He was
born January 1st, 1618, and died at the age
of sixty-four, by falling i'rom the scaffold
where he was painting a fresco. In this gal-
lery, I found but three of his paintings; the
Holy Family, lovingly grouped together; St.
John and the Lamb, so extensively known by
an engraved copy; and the other the head of
a boy.
LONDON. 129"
We are again in our little room, after an
absence of two days, which have passed de-
lightfully among those we have learned to
love in England as friends.
I sometimes sigh for home in this month
of leaves and roses, when I think of our own
blue sky and genial sunshine. But nature
here is exceedingly lavish in clothing every-
thing with a robe of beauty, that springs from
the earth, even if she does withhold the bright
shining of the sun. Her profuse liberality
in watering the earth causes it to ^' bud and
blossom as the rose," and to bring forth abun-
dantly. The foliage is of a deep glossy
green, and extravagant in luxuriance. The
flowers bloom profusely, but are not as rich in
fragrance as ours. The birds, what musicians !
In all our excursions in the country, and even
in the parks and gardens of London, we have
been gratuitously greeted by nature's min-
strels, warbling their choicest and richest
melodies. If I were endowed with the heaven-
given powers of Handel, I might attempt to
convey some idea of the captivating, and
perfectly enrapturing, song of the night-
ingale at even-tide, and the soul-thrilling notes
130 LEAFLETS.
of the English Lark, as she springs from her
dewy nest in the green meadow, at early
morn. As she soars from the ground, and
sweeps gracefully through the air, in circling
eddies, her soft low notes rise and swell with
her narrowing circles, while every strain is
one voluptuous peal of melodious music, float-
ing from all the strings of nature's lyre.
Mr. N was invited to fill the pulpit of
a Chapel near Clapham Park. In England
all places of worship not of the Established
Church are called chapels, and the clergymen
of such are styled preachers. But, alas ! how
many times I transgressed these convention-
alities by calling chapels churches, and the
preachers clergymen. We spent the Sabbath
with Mr. C — 's family, whom we had previous-
ly visited so pleasantly. The father is a noble,
princely man, and a faithful priest in his
household. Mrs. C is a real lady, and an
amiable mother. The children kind and lov-
ing; the two eldest, who are young ladies, are
accomplished and beautiful, and devote much
of their time and talents to benevolent enter-
prises. In my intercourse with them, they
mothers' society. 131
related to me this little incident; it occurred
in connection with the ladies' association,
known as the Mothers' Society, which had
connected with it a valuable and well-selected
library, richly laden with choice Christian
literature, that poor and destitute women
might here drink from a pure fountain. Early
one morning a woman, not in rags, but poorly
clad, called, and modestly asked for a book to
read, and what book, think you, she asked
for'^ It was the Bible! but the librarian,
greatly confused, was obliged to inform her,
there was not a Bible in the library. There
were ladies connected with the association,
whose duty, and even pleasure, it was, every
day to scatter the precious leaves of " life's
fair tree," but it had never occurred to them
that any one would call at this library to read
the Book of books. Yet this poor woman,
hungering for the spiritual food, had been
driven here to remind these Christian ladies
that among all their volumes the Lamp of
Life did not illumine their library. She did
not leave, however, without being supplied
with bread, which our Saviour assures us "if a
man eat he shall never hunger," and that wa-
11-*
132 LEAFLETS.
ter which was in her, ''a well of water spring-
ing up into everlasting life."
In the morning, we were in attendance
at the Sabbath - school, which reminded
me of our own at home, though it was
much smaller ; after which, Mr. N
preached to a large and interesting audi-
ence, and again in the evening.
We spent the afternoon with Miss Pipe
and her mother, who have charge of a
very genteel young Ladies' Boarding School.
Miss Pipe, the principal, is a brilliant
lady, in whose character are blended the
graces of the spirit, harmonizing with a
thoroughly cultivated intellect. We dined
with the ladies, about twenty in all, and sel-
dom, if ever, have I seen such bright-eyed
intelligence, as beamed and glowed in their
smiling faces. The principal is assisted in
every department of the school by the best
professors from the city. The elegant appear-
ance of the table, and the arrangement of
every room in the house ; the ample and
beautifully adorned grounds and gardens,
where the ladies are allowed to wander in all
their quiet loveliness — everything conspires
ENGLISH ROCKERY. 133
to make it one of the most desirable schools
for young ladies I have ever visited.
The next morning we made our grateful
adieux to the dear family who had so kindly
entertained us, and, in company with Misses
Sarah and Edith, the eldest daughters, set out
on our second visit to the Crystal Palace.
Before taking the cars, we called at Mr.
G 's, who lives in a palatial home, sur-
rounded with rural grounds, yet adorned with
rare beauty. Mrs. G , whom we had met
the day before in church, we found to be an
intelligent lady, who has in her possession
several letters written by Adam Clarke, and
some valuable manuscripts, which are precious
relics. In these gardens we were shown an
English rockery, the first I had ever seen,
unique and romantic, but truthful in its imi-
tation of nature. The rocks are formed from
a composition-cement and earth into cragged
shapes, rudely piled upon each other, as often
seen in nature, with the velvet moss and
ferns of the forest growing profusely upon
them, in native wildness. As we wandered
through these rugged pathways, ever and
anon we observed little silver-like streams
134 LEAFLETS.
winding hither and thither, then trickling
down through the fissures and crevices, mur-
muring sweet music, until, gathering strength
as they advance, they leap over the mimic
rocks in laughing cascades, forming a trans-
parent lakelet below, on the pebbled shore ol
which are I'ustic seats, shaded by overhang-
ing willows ; the scene combining all the soli-
tude of a lone, sequestered dell.
We arrived at the Crystal Palace about
11 o'clock, A. M., and walked ibr several
hours over the extensive grounds, which we
had been prevented from doing at a previous
visit, in consequence of the rain. On the
parapet of the first great terrace are twenty-
six allegorical statues, representing im-
portant manufacturing countries, and indus-
trial cities of England and France, which im-
pressed me as being the most imposing feature
of the grounds. The Archery and Cricket
grounds are exceedingly attractive, while the
Italian and English landscapes are perfectly
charming. The ''Rosery" consists of an ar-
cade, formed of Arabesque iron-work, around
which are twined almost every variety of
roses, filling the air with their fragrance.
CRYSTAL PALACE. 135
The varied lawns and sparkling fountains;
the rare trees, shrubs and flowers, everywhere
tastefully arranged, reminds one ol' Eden
charmingly restored.
AYe tarried for some time on the Grand
Plateau, examining the geological restora-
tions of the preadamic, or extinct animals,
fishes, and birds, arranged here and there on
an island, in the midst of a small lake. They
are represented as huge in their proportions,
with strange, ungainly forms, which Geology
has restored to us from fragments found em-
bedded in rocks. These islands, with their
wonderful scientific illustrations and singular
tenants, dot a large artificial lake, on whose
placid bosom were fantastic pleasure-boats, of
almost every size and form, from the gay Ve-
netian gondola to the little row-boat and In-
dian canoe. On reaching the shore, we pro-
posed to take a sail. At that moment, we
observed that different countries were repre-
sented by their national flags floating over
these tiny vessels, at anchor in a miniature
harbor. Now commenced a good-natured
contest. Our English companions laughingly
said, '• now you must sail under English
136 LEAFLETS.
colors ;" but the spirit of our glorious fore-
fathers, who had broken the chains that bound
us to Britain, rose up before us, and the love
of American liberty went throbbing through
our veins, as we said, "no, but we will sail
under the star-spangled banner." The ladies
pointed to their English flag, while we looked
in vain for the "red, white, and blue;" but
it was not among the national emblems. Why
is it not here 7 inquired we of the boatman,
who, fearing that he might lose his shilling,
apologized by saying "it had been taken
down that morning to be washed, and that it
was now in the boat-house." Our English
ladies had the hiugh on us ; but we thought,
that John Bull did not care to show off
the emblem of the strength of his trans-
atlantic cousins. We submitted with as good
a grace as possible ; but, on stepping into the
boat, we exclaimed:
" the star-.spang:led banner, ! long may it wave
O'er tlie land of tlie free, and the home of the brave !"
After the sail, we entered the Palace,
and spent some time examining the articles
exhibited in a Ladies' Fair, held, at that time,
in one part of the building. In a few hours
BUNHILL FIELDS. 137
we parted with our dear lady-friends, and re-
turned to London, where we arrived, in time
to visit, that afternoon, the Bunhill Fields
Burial-Grounds — "the Campo Santo" of the
Dissenters — who, it is said, conscientiously ob-
jected to the burial-service in the J3ook of
Common Prayer. De Foe relates of these
grounds, that, while the plague prevailed in
London, in 1665, they were used as a pest-
field — that the great pit in Finsbury, in the
parish of Cripplegate, which has since been
walled within this inclosure, was then open,
and that many, who were fatally infected,
ran, in their delirium, wrapped in old blank-
ets or rags, and, throwing themselves into
the pit, expired, and were left thus exposed
until others were brought to be buried. These
extensive grounds are walled in, and, as we
strolled, for over an hour, through the tall
grass that grows upon the turf that heaves
over line after line of mouldering heaps, we
paused, reading on weather-beaten slabs the
records of the distinguished dead. Here we
found the grave of that excellent and "elect-
lady," Susannah Wesley, called, by Taylor,
the " Mother of Methodism," inasmuch as she
138 L K A F L E T S .
trained its illustrious founders. She was born
in London, in 1G70, and from her liather, Dr.
Samuel Anneslev, she inherited her enercj-v,
method, and ])owei- of character; and trans-
mitted them to her son, John Weslev, as
afterward demonstrated in his life of un-
unparalelled usefulness. Slie was married, at
the age of nineteen, to Rev. Sanuiel Wedey^
a clergyman of the Established Church, wluK^e
peculiar views often placed himself- and I'am-
ily under trying circumstances, particularly
in the early part of theii* married life. They
were surrounded by an unusual number of
children, nineteen in all — thirteen of whom
lived to rise up and call their mother blessed.
The entire affairs of the household, and the
training of the children, devolved upon Mrs.
Wesley, who, happily, possessed every requi-
site of a teacher.
The obscure Rectory at Epworth, where
the I'amily lived for many years, presented a
beautiful picture of a domestic sanctuary, in
which Christian virtues and graces were de-
veloped; also a family-seminary, where per-
fect order was maintained, in opening and
closing with prayer and sniging, every morn«
BUNHILL FIELDS. 139
ing and evening, completing a lovely family
circle, the mother being the centre of house-
hold joys. She was as beautiful as she was
accomplished, and amiable as she was pious,
having a loveliness of face and figure seldom
seen. But seeming entirely unconscious of
this fact, she devoted all the faculties of her
high-toned nature, which was strong in every
part, to the stern duties of life — making her
a distinguished woman, a faithful wife, and a
devoted and loving mother. She died in
London, at the age of seventy-three. The
last words she uttered to those who were
standing around her, when dying, were :
"children, as soon as I am released, sing a
psalm of praise to God!" She was interred
in this burying-ground, among the illustrious
dead, where she still sleeps in peace. Here,
also, are the graves of John Bunyan, who
died 1688, and Dr. Isaac Watts, who died
1748. The "Pilgrim's Progress" of the for-
mer, and the "Psalms and Hymns" of the
latter, have, as gentle hand-maidens, or attend-
ing angels, accompanied the Bible wherever it
has gone, in our own hearts and homes, and in
distant lands, rendering John Bunyan and
12
140
LEAFLETS.
Isaac Watts " sacred names." Among all these
graves, we did not forget the resting-place of
George Fox, who founded a sect called
*' Quakers," and from the mound that marks
the spot, I gathered some beautiiul spears of
grass as a memento. May he sleep quietly,
until the Spirit moves him to rise, '^ at the
last great day."
CHAPTER XII.
A I'RAYKR MKETING — SEKING THK QUEEN AND
ROYAL FAMILY.
I HAVE now been in London and its environs
over four weeks, and really begin to feel
marvelously at home. I have even ventured
out in this Babylonian city, and several times
visited the British Museum and National Gal-
lery without a guide ; some of the streets begin
to appear as familiar as Broadway, in New
York. This morning I very reluctantly pack-
ed my trunk, expecting to leave, but a change
in the arrangement of the trains detained us
until evening, affording me a line opportunity
to give you the finale of our wanderings and
sojourn here. On Tuesday morning I arose
early, and accompanied Mrs. E , an Eng-
lish lady, and a member of the Established
Church, to a six o'clock prayer-meeting, held
in one of the rooms belonging to the Young
142 LEAFLETS.
Men's Christian Association. Only a few
were present, but a spirit of earnest prayer
prevailed before the throne, the burden of
which was a young lady in high life, whom
the Spirit had inclined to meet with them,
and who, while there, had sought and found
the ''pearl of great price," As it began to
reflect its brightness upon her pathway,
gilding the circle in which she moved, her
friends observed the rapid development of the
higher and nobler life within ; but their
own proud hearts, untouched by God's Holy
Spirit, would not listen to her experience,
neither to the promptings of spirit voices
whispering to them, but in malice and bitter-
ness they opposed her, and confined her to
her room, hoping thereby to abate her ardor.
One morning she awoke, a raving maniac,
which they at once declared to be the
efiect of religion. In this little room, early
in the morning, I found a band of Christians,
praying "earnestly and without ceasing" for
her, that though absent from them she might
be loosed from the power that bound her
reason, and that soon she might again worship
with them, "sitting at the feet of Jesus, and
PRAYER-MEETING. 143
clothed in her right mind." Their prayers
were answered, and God's cause triumphed
over the prince of darkness.
A great revival spirit is extending all over
Great Britain. Union in effort is the watch-
word among all Christians, and denomina-
tional prejudices are banished. It has been
delightful to attend these meetings, which
are held in all parts of the city.
We have visited the Ragged Schools, that
are accomplishing a great work among the
forlorn outcasts of every street, in feeding
and clothing them, and teaching them useful
and honorable employment.
We have seen Queen Victoria and the Royal
family; but we came very near leaving Lon-
don without enjoying this unspeakable privi-
lege. Sjon after our arrival in the city, we
applied to Mr. Dallas, the American Ambassa-
do)', for tickets to admit us to the Queen's
Drawing-Room; they were readily promised,
but we were not in haste to secure them, know-
ing that Her Majesty was then at the Osborne
House ; but, taking up the London Times
a few mornings since, I read that on Tuesday
'' Her Most Gracious Majesty, Victoria, would
10*
144 LEAFLETS.
again hold her Drawing-Room in the Palace
of St. James." We sent immediately for
tickets, hut as there is only a limited number
at the disposal of our minister, they had all
been previously distributed, which we were
assured he deeply regretted. Mr. N ,
more fortunate than myself, had seen the
Queen as she was taking an evening ride, and
did not care to go out on this gloomy, rainy
day to see her again ; but as it might be the
only opportunity I would have to see the wo-
man that a great and powerful nation has
sceptred and crowned as Queen, I was quite
determined to catch a glimpse of her, even at
the last moment.
Having secured a catriage, I rode to the
Park, where our vehicle was not allowed to
enter; but ascertaining that persons on foot
were, I jumped from the carriage, and,
through the drenching rain — splash, splash —
hastened on until I reached the entrance to
St. James, where splendid horses and car-
riages, and daz/ling equipages, were rolling
in and out. The Queen had already arrived
from Buckingham Palace, and joined the gay
throng in the Drawing-Room. Prompted
QUEEN VICTORIA. 145
still by woman's curiosity, I was not dis-
heartened, but resolved to remain until she
returned, in the meantime picturing to myself
the brilliant assembly that thronged the rooms
and corridors. In fancy, I could see Her
Majesty smiling and bowing graciously to
each that had the honor of being presented
to her. At last the scene and ceremony con-
cluded, and about four o'clock a gun was
fired, when the large entrance-gate, which
had been so laithfully guarded by sentinels
attired in red, striped with gold, flew open, and
two ushers, dressed as officials, darted out on
horseback, at full speed, followed by a state-
coach, in which were Her Majesty's Ministers;
in the next were seated the veritable Queen
and Prince Consort. The sides of the carriage
were open, giving us a fine opportunity to see
hei' full in the face, which entirely upset my
idea of queenly dignity, as she was giggling
and laughing just as we sometimes do when
we can't help it, or don't wish to help it. Her
features calmed down somewhat, however,
when she saw that quite a crowd had gath-
ered on that terribly rainy day to see her pass,
and to say '* God save the Queen!"
146 LEAFLETS.
My eyes were dazzled looking at the splen-
did red carriages, adorned with gold, and cush-
ioned with crimson-velvet, that followed in
quick succession, filled with many of the
finest specimens of English aristocracy, cov-
ered with jewels and badges of honor. In the
carriage next to the Queen's were several of
the royal children, and in one which followed
this was Leopold, King of the Belgians,
who was then a guest at Buckingham, and
the excellent Duchess of Kent, mother of
Victoria, and sister of the King (a most
honorable woman) ; and then came the car-
riage in which was the Duchess of Suther-
land, the famous and noblest of English
matrons. When the gorgeous retinue had
passed, 1 could recall it only as a fairy-like
enchantment, or poetic vision. But my mind
centred on the fair, plump, pretty, loveable face
of Victoria. Some of her own loving, loyal
subjects had called her plain-looking, and
many said she was homely ; but, in the
glimpse I caught of her, I saw so much of the
vivacity of youth and of womanly goodness
animating a countenance beaming with intelli-
gence, that I could but consider her beautiful.
QUEEN VICTORIA. 147
She was dressed very plain, owing to the
death of her aunt, which had occurred a few
weeks previous. She was attired in a thin,
white material, with a black sash or scarf.
Her hair, which is sott brown, was arranged
tastefully, with a small coronet or tiara of
diamonds encircling her brow, which sparkled
like dew-drops in the sun. Prince Albert sat
by her side, in a sort of soldier-like stateliness,
a splendid specimen of German nobility.
CHAPTER XIII.
LEAVING L N I) X - T R I P T E 1) I N B U R G H .
June '[i')fh.
We bade adieu to London, and were seated
in the cars, just as the faint shadows of even-
ing began to reflect the glimmer of tapers
here and there through the narrow streets,
and were soon roUing after the " iron horse,"
through some of the loveliest scenery of Eng-
land, on which we ga/ed with rapt admiration,
until the fatigue of the day, and the long
hours of the night, made us sigh for rest,
when we commenced arranging our seats that
we might be comfortable for the night ; but,
alas ! '' our best concerted schemes were vain,"
for, in a few moments, the train stopped, and
a woman, with a host of children, came
crowding in, with baskets and boxes, big bun-
dles and little bundles, and I cannot tell what
all, until the apartment of the car was liter-
ally jannued, vanishing all our blissful visions
LEAVING LONDON. 149
of the land of Nod, for now we were com-
pelled to sit cramped up in one corner, per-
fectly erect. For a while, however, in spite
of our uncomfortable position, occasioned by
this unexpected group, we amused our-
selves watching this old dame dandling first
one and then the other of these children
into repose; when she could not succeed
with this mode, she resorted to the ample and
well-filled basket, crowded half way under
the seat, which she would divest of sundry
kinds of meats, vsuch as chicken, bacon ;
and last, but not least, the gammon-bone
of a ham, from which, with the use of a knife
and fork, she must have satisfied all aching
voids within, but did not succeed as well in
getting them asleep. You little brats, very
wickedly thought 1, as they disturbed my
quiet, but the next moment laughed until
until I cried to see this female guardian (for
she could not have been their mother, ) drill
these children by lullabys, then pet them, then
feed, or rather stufi' them, then off with her
shoe and cuff them, but without succeedinor
in either. The very next moment, with all
possible coolness, she would take out a tin
150 LEAFLETS.
tea-pot, and drink from the spout. At last,
tired and thoroughly vexed by such un-
cultivated government, such rebellious sub-
jects, or as Tupper is pleased to call an infant
specimen, "a well-spring of j^leasure, a link
between angels and men," the window being
open, I turned from scenes within to views
without, where, at every turn, nature was re-
vealing a thousand charms heightened by the
subdued twilight. I soon forgot that I was
tired or compelled to sit painfully erect, and
even the old grandmother and her noisy en-
cumbrances, if not entirely forgotten, appear-
ed to be blessings in disguise, to prevent my
falling asleep, and thus losing sight of these
beautiful panoramic views. At this hour all
nature had hushed herself into rest and quiet ;
the holy stars, heaven's stainless watchers,
were twinkling on the brow of night, and
anon fair luna made her appearance in the
form of a silver cresent, hung amid sparkling
diamonds, whose liquid light made night seem
but as a milder day, for evening's gray twi-
light had lingered into night, which so quick-
ly glided into day, that it scarcely made a
EDINBURGH. 151
bridge between the first streak of morning's
gay twilight.
As the train paused at the stations, we could
hear the birds utter their first little drowsy
stir and chirp, mingling with the low ol kine
and the bleat of sheep, which soon blended
with the general hum of early awakening
life; the stars, one by one, now closed their
diamond eyes, and the pale cresent lovingly
kissed the sceptre of the king of day, and
disappeared as he rode up the eastern sky in
his chariot of golden light, just as we were
exchanging the green fields of merry England
for "ye banks and braes o' bonnie" Scotland.
We arrived at Edinburgh, the Scottish me-
tropolis — called by many authors "modern
Athens" — about ten o'clock in the forenoon,
and stopped at an hotel on Waterloo Place.
Tired as we were, it was only a few hours
before we were wandering among the graves
of Calton Church-yard. In one corner we
observed a circular-like tower, and on ap-
proaching, found it to be a monument
of David Hume, the historian. In nearly
the centre of this yard, stands a grand
obelisk, erected in 1845 to the memory
13
152 LEAFLETS.
of Muir, Palmer, Gerrald, Skirving and Mar-
garet, who were banished on account of the
part they took in the cause of freedom in
1794. Adjoining this yard, are the casteUated
walls of the old prison. From this cemetery
we crossed over to Calton Ilillj^which is less
than a quarter of a mile distant; on reaching
the summit, which is over three hundred and
fifty feet above the level of the sea, we gain-
ed an extensive prospect of the surrounding
country where
" Traced like a map the landscape lies.
In cultured beauty stretching wide.'"
combining some of the richest elements of
the sublime and lovely in nature, with a
fine view of the city, built on elevated ridges,
extending from east to west — the build-
ings arranged in picturesque disorder. The
old and the new towns are separated by ex-
tensive pleasure gardens and grounds, which,
as seen from here, seem to sw^ecp round the
base of the old castle. Around us are several
elaborately designed monuments; the one
most conspicuous is that to Nelson, "model-
ed exactly after a Dutch skipper's spy -glass,
or a butter churn," and one of chaste design to
EDINBURGH. 153
Dugald Stewart; but the one that claimed
my undivided attention, was the twelve col-
umns of the unfinished National Monument,
which, when completed, was intended to com-
memorate the heroes who fell at Waterloo.
In design it was to be a reproduction of the
Parthenon ; but, to the chagrin of every
Scotchman, lor the want of funds, it has
proved a vain attempt to restore one of the
^'glories of the antique world."
Edinburgh, the monumental city of Scot-
land, is at the present day, in many respects,
the most interesting city in the world. It is
crowded with literary and benevolent insti-
tutions. Printing and publishing are carried
on on a large scale ; and there are also here a
great number of Hospitals, amply endowed,
and admirably conducted. Sir Walter Scott's
works, in prose and poetical romance, full
of life and vigor, have sent out into all
the world so many thrilling voices, inviting
hundreds of devoted worshipers to shrines
he has consecrated amid charming hills and
dales, where ivy-mantled towers lift their
crumbling forms, and holy abbeys and deso-
late castles hide themselves behind the green
164 LEAFLETS.
rubbish of ages. The Scotch, as a nation^
cherish his name and memory as a sort of
patriot, who arose to redeem Scotland, by
refreshing and emljcllishing the incidents of
history, and to give their land a name other
than that found in the long, dark, and fearful
struggles of strifes and wai's. In appreciation
of his labors and usefulness, they have, on the
north side of East Princes Street Gardens,
erected to his memory the most magnificent
monument I have ever seen ; the foundation
was laid on the 15th of August^ 1840, and
completed in 1844. The style is purely
Gothic, with four grand arches. The niches
are filled with sculptured impersonations of
the characters portrayed in the works of Sir
Walter ; (me is the Lad}^ of the Lake stepping
from the boat to the shore ; another the Last
Minstrel, playing on his harp, together with
many others. It is over two hundred feet
high, with two hundred and eighty-seven
steps conducting to the gallery at the top.
In the interior, beneath the arched canopy
of marble, is a colossal statue of the great
author, represented sitting, gracefully draped
in plaid, with one of the Waverleys in his
HOLYROOD PALACE. 155
hand, and attended by his favorite dog, Be-
vis. The monument is worthy of such a
great man — stately and magnificent in all its
proportions — the entire cost being over fifteen
thousand pounds.
Not more than a hundred years ago was
born, in a little thatched-rooied peasant's cot-
tajre, one whose native talents and extraordi-
nary genius has given to bonnie Scotland the
title which will never be forgotten — ''the
land of Burns." How my love for his sweet,
soul-stirring effusions deepened and intensi-
fied, as I stood beside the monument erected
to his memory, and called to mind his
'' Highland Mary," the queen of his well-
earned inheritance, and whom he cherished
adoringly through all his checkered career.
There is another name beside those of
Scott and Burns, which at one time illumines,
then darkens, now gladdens, now dims with
tears of sorrow, the pages of Scottish history.
It is the name of the beautiful and talented,
but unfortunate, Mary Stuart; and Holyrood
Palace is the monument to her memory in
Scotland, where she spent most of her adven-
turous, and even tempestuous life. To-day
13''
156 LEAFLETS.
we have visited this palace and abbey, and,
as we passed from room to room, and through
the cold halls, the memory of the lovely
Mary seemed to linger, as a stray sun-beam, to
gladden them. We hastened to Mary's rooms,
which, we were informed, remain the same,
or nearly so, as when occupied by the fair
Queen. The aspect of the furniture is an-
tique ; the quaint, old-fashioned, high-backed
chairs are richly embroidered, but very much
faded, and, to me, they appeared too I'rail me-
morials to hold together for nearly three
hundred years. The royal bedstead is railed
in, lest unholy hands should reach out and
take a forbidden rag from its discolored coun-
terpane; the curtains, once crimson-damask,
with green silk fringe and tassels, now^ dangle
in tattered fragments from four high posts;
but there is still retained a charm, when we
remember that once her lovely form reposed
upon it. The walls are covered with Gobelin
tapestry, from the Paris manuiactory, which
is now so web-like and time-worn that it is
dropping to pieces. In a little recess stands
a table, on which remains a work-box, ex-
quisitely embroidered by Mary's delicate,
HOLYROOD PALACE. 157
queenly hands. I joined with a French lady
in our party, who, when she looked at and
admired it, exclaimed, "ah ! qu'elle est jolie!''
Here is, also, a curiously constructed basket^
which palace tradition informed us was used
by the Queen-Mother to contain the infant
wardrobe of James the Sixth, of Scotland,
and that it was presented by Queen Eliza-
beth to Mary. We looked into the mirror
that hundreds of years ago so often gave
back the reflection of her fair face. But
how my blood went throbbing through my
veins, as I entered the little boudoir where
the Duchess of Argyle and the youthful, fair-
faced Italian, Rizzio, were quietly supping
with the Queen on that fatal night, when
Lord Darnley and his accomplices entered to
perpetrate their secret plans of assassination.
We saw the small door, and looked down the
private stairway, through which these des-
perate demons crept, stealthily, into these
apartments, where the horrible scene ensued.
When the poor Italian was aware that his life
was aimed at, he fled, child-like, for protec-
tion, behind the Queen, who, in attempting to
rescue him, was rudely pushed aside by the
158 LEAFLETS.
murderers; they seized him, and dragged
him through her bed room to the head of the
stairs, where the>^ were not satisfied until
the}' had stabbed him over forty times, each
wound being sullicient to take life, and where
the discolored spot on the floor, until this day,
iiuk'libly records the horrible tragedy. How
pitiful must have been the cries and prayers
of the Queen, at the time, for his life; and
how fearfully nmst have rung through these
halls her angry vow of vengeance and re-
venge when she knew that he was dead. It
is said that the little room was never again
occupied by the Queen, or any one else. On
the table now lie the armor of Lord Ruthven,
his boots, gauntlets, and iron breast-plate,
worn at the time of the assassination. What
a change ! — from a little supping board, loaded
with dainty luxuries, such as queens have
placed before them, to the vile garments
stained with the blood of the innocent.
After passing through Lord Dainley's sleep-
ing apartments, and the state-rooms and gal-
leries, we entered the abbey, founded in the
eleventh century, by David the First. A part
of the high altar has withstood the ravages of
HOLYROOD ABBEY. 159
the imcourtly hand of time, and remains un-
der an arched window of great beauty, around
which the creeping ivy has twined its loving
tendrils. It was before this altar that Mary
Queen of Scots, stood in that unfortunate
hour when married to Lord Darnley. This
palace has for centuries been the residence of
Scottish royalty, and the abbey, their burial-
place, which is still beautiful amid its ruin.
The exterior of the palace most strikingly
resembles a military fortress. The front is
flanked by double castelated towers. The
whole being built in a quadrangle form, gives
a court-yard of ninety feet square, and, as a
whole, quite unlike any other castle I have
seen. Wishing to pursue the history of Mary
Queen of Scots, as far as can be traced in the
castles and palaces once occupied by her, we
left Holy rood Abbey, and hastened to the old
castle, situated on a precipitous rocky emi-
nence, nearly four hundred feet high. Its
origin dates far back in the past, when it
formed the nucleus around which Edinburgh,
in its childhood, arose. It always has been^
and still is, an extensive military fortress,
with, at present, ample accommodations for
160 LEAFLETS.
two thousand soldiers, and an armory of thir-
ty thousand stand of arms. \Yithin this an-
cient pahice, the pious (^ueen Margaret died,
in 1093. The beautiful little Norman Chapel,
built by hei', in whicdi she worshiped,- still re-
mains, the pride of the castle, as it is a gem
and an architectural relic. As we proceeded
to the crown-room, we glanced into the
gloomy prisons, where royalty, in other days,
was confined. The regalia consists of a ciown,
sceptre, and sword, which lie on a table, be-
neath a crimson canopy, guarded by two
wardens, whose business it is to show them
to visitors. How many destinies of men and
nations have these insignias of Scottish roy-
alty controlled] In the hand of the Bruces,
the sceptre was at one period a rod of power;
at another time, a broken reed. The sword
was an instrument of vengeance to James the
First ; and the gorgeous crown changed into
a chaplet of thorns, pressing painfully deep
into the fair brow of Mary Stuart, from which
it was taken and placed upon the head of her
infant son, where it shone, a diadem of glory.
To me, a shade of melancholy seemed to hang
over every relic retained in the apartments
EDINBURGH CASTLE. 161
occupied by the beautitul Queen at such an
eventful period in her life. In one of these
rooms, her only son, afterward James the
Sixth, was born. With what solicitude the
queen-mother must have watched his little
barque, as it began to toss on the troubled and
even tempestuous sea of a nation wrought up
to the fearful storm of strife. Torn from his
mother's bosom when only eight days old,
and, to escape murderous pursuers, let down
in a tiny basket, over the rocky eminence on
which the castle is built, the infant King
was carried to Stirling Castle, and baptized
in the Protestant faith by Knox. In this room
was a seat made from a rose tree, said to have
been planted by her queenly hand. On every-
thing I could see traced the mysterious hand-
writing of " glory departed." And in her his-
tory it appears that either fate or Providence
desisined her for reverses, misfortune and suf-
ferine:, from her childhood. She was born in
the Palace of Linlithgow, in 1542. Her
father, James the Fifth, died when she was
eight days old, leaving the inflmt Mary sole
heiress of his fortunes and his crown. The
Earl of Arren was appointed governor of the
162 LEAFLETS.
kingdom, and guardian of the young Queen,
who was to remain with her mother, in the
royal palace. A disturbance ensued between
the earl and King Henry the P]ighth, of Eng-
land. The king greatly desired the hand of
the princess for his son, Edward, having in
his mind the union of the two crowns there-
by. At one time encouraged by the earl,
then refused, the result of the latter was a
great battle, which was fought at a place
called Musselburgh, where the Scots were de-
feated, compelling the mother of Mary to flee
with the young child to the Island of Inche-
mahon, where the little Queen, with her four
Marys as companions, were in banishment for
several years.
At the age of six years, her mother,
who was herself a French Princess, managed
to escape with her to France, where Mary was
splendidly educated in a Convent, with the
daughters of the nobility; her literary acquire-
ments were rapid and wonderful in their
development. She understood the French,
Spanish, and Italian tongues almost, if not
quite to perfection, at a very early age ; she
spoke the Latin with ease and elegance.
MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. 163
Her taste for poetry and music, and accom-
plishments of beauty, wit, and learning, all
combined to make her extravagantly admired
by the French Court. At the age of sixteen,
she was married to the son of the King of
France, and at the death of his lather, which
occurred soon after their marriage, he was
crowned Francis the Second, and Mary his
beautiful Queen. But, alas ! only six months
after his accession to the throne, he died.
They were devotedly attached, and Mary
mouined deeply for him. The Scots insist-
ed on her return to her native land, that she
might be crowned their rightful Sovereign.
She bade adieu to France very reluctantly,
and even after she had sailed, remained on deck
gazing on the shores of her beloved France"
weeping like a child. On arriving in Scotland,
she was welcomed with so much enthusiasm
by her subjects, and crowned Queen with so
many honors, that she soon forgot her sorrows
at leaving France. Lord Darnley was proposed
as her husband, and charmed by his youth
and beauty, she consented to marry him;
but the union was not a happy one, as her life
afterward proved to be a series of ill-fated
14
lt)4 LEAFLETS.
circumtances. Darnley treated her cruelly,
causing the death of her private Italian Sec-
retary and favorite musician, after which she
no longer attempted to conceal her hatred for
him. Even the birth of her son, under these
trying circumstances, failed to reconcile them
to each other. While at Stirling Castle,
Darnley was seized with disease,wliich threat^
ened his life, and the Queen, forgetting for the
moment, his unkindness, visited him, and
among her acts of affection, she placed a
ring on his hand and accompanied him to a
house called Kirk of Field, which was soon
after blown up by gunpowder, and his shatter-
ed remains found the next day in an adja-
cent field. Bothw^ell, a powerful nobleman,
who had shown great attachment for the
Queen, and her cause, was accused of the mur-
der, and public opinion even suspected the
Queen as being accessory to it, and his being
retained in her intimacv onlv confirmed the
suspicion. They weie married in about three
months after, which, as might be expected,
incurred the indignation of the people. Both-
well, assuming the power of the throne, so
disturbed and agitated the religion, politics,
MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. 165
and general peace of the nation, that war en-
sued, and being defeated, was compelled to fly,
and the Queen was imprisoned at Lochleven.
After eleven month's confinement, she escap-
ed, when many of her loyal subjects rallied
around her, hoping to be able to reinstate her ;
but Murry, an illegitimate brother of hers, had
been declared regent, who came against her
with a strong force, and as her army consisted
only of inexperienced soldiers, who were
easily defeated; her life was only saved by
traveling sixty miles on horseback, in one
day. She now wrote to Elizabeth of England,
who assumed to condole with her, and prom-
ised her protection ; but, as soon as she was in
her power, the guise of affection was removed,
and her old jealousy and enmity manifested
by confining her in prison without seeing her,
where she remained for nineteen years, when
she was ccmdemned to be beheaded, having
been accused of being engaged in a con-
spiracy against Elizabeth. Becoming weary
of a life involving only misfortune and dis-
appointment, she met this sentence, it is said,
with dignity and calmness, and when a faith-
ful old servant, the steward of her household,
166 LEAFLETS.
8aw her led out for execution, he threw him-
self on his knees before her, wringing his
hands, exchiiniing: ''Ah, madam! unhappy
me! was ever man on earth the bearer of such
sorrow as I shall be, when I repeat that my
good and gracious Queen was beheaded in
England! " Here his grief impeded his utter-
ance, and Mary replied: "Good Melville, cease
to lament, thou hast rather cause to joy than
mourn; for thou shalt see the end of Mary
Stuart's troubles. Know that this world is
but vanity, subject to more sorrow than an
ocean of tears can bewail." She soon alter
kneeled on the scaflbld, and praying for her
enemies, submitted to her death, which
occurred in Fotheringay Castle, February
8th, 1587.
At the death of Elizabeth, Mary was
avenged by her son, James the Sixth, uniting
the crowns of England and Scotland, when
he caused the remains of his mother to be
interred in Westminster Abbey, and there
erected a magnificent monument to her mem-
ory ; and at his death, his remains were placed
by her side. Many authors, even at the pres-
ent day, differ in regard to the moral char-
ST. GILES' CATHEDRAL. 167
acter of this ill-fated queen. The noble Sir
Walter Scott refused to pronounce her guilty
of the charges brought against her, and as-
serts that her enemies were paid to slander
her. Mrs. Hale, in her '* Woman's Record,'*
says of her: "There never has been but one
opinion as to her charms as a woman, or the
variety of her accomplishments," and adds,
" that such were the fascinations of her per-
son and mind, that few could be placed under
their influence without becoming convinced
of her innocence of all the charges against
her." In the little room in the old castle,
where her only son first opened his eyes to
the light of day, I purchased an engraving
copied from an original painting of her, which
lies before me,- and all that I can say is in
the language of another :
'•If to her lot some human errors fall,
Look to her face, and you'll forget them all.''
Leaving the castle, we proceeded down
what is called the "Lawn Market," and soon
reached St. Giles' Cathedral, one of the Es-
tablished Churches of Scotland, which is
Presbyterian. It is Gothic in architecture,
and very large ; and, although somewhat mod-
14*
168 LEAFLETS.
ernized, it still bears marks of antiquity.
Two old women, dressed in genuine Scottish
costume, met us at the entrance, and, acting
as wardens, they commenced to show us the
Cathedral, and allowed us to stand in the same
pulpit where John Knox, the intrepid eccle-
siastical reioiiner, thundered his anathemas
against the Church of Rome. At one time,
when preaching to the nobility, who have an
elegant canopied seat in the gallery, fronting
the pulpit, his text were these words, "Chil-
dren shall rule princes." Queen Maiy^, it is
said, wept like a child as she listened to
Divine truth. A nobleman, witnessing her
tears, cried out to the preacher, "Are you not
ashamed to make your Queen weep?" to which
Knox replied, "I have no pleasure in her
tears; but I must preach what my Master
holds me to." Leaving the Cathedral, w^e
gave the old ladies a gratuity, one of whom
pronounced her blessing upon us, and, following
us into the Parliament Square, on the north-
ern side of the Cathedral, pointed us to an
equestrian statue of Charles the Second, which
is commanding in appearance. Only a few
steps from the statue, she very reverentially
RESIDENCE OF KNOX. 169
pointed to several dark stones in the pavement,
saying, "Here lies the remains of the great-
est of preachers: kings, queens and lords
have proud monuments; but here, unknown,
except by these few stones, is the grave of
John Knox!" l^assing down the street, we
visited the house where he lived for at least
twelve years. It is a fine specimen of a
dwelling-house of the sixteenth century.
Over the door is this inscription, placed there
by his own hands, and still remaining, "Lufe.
God. above al. and. your, nichbour. as. your,
self" On a bracket is a rudely sculptured
eliigy, representing the great reformer in the
attitude of addressing the populace. Look-
ing from this point down the thronged
street, upon the motly crowd of bare-footed
and half-naked children, bare-headed and
slovenly wouien, the coarse and ugly features
and tattered garments of the men, as they
huddled together in groups, selling their pro-
duce in the open streets, or sallying forth with
all kinds of vegetables and meats in their
hands, aprons, caps and hats, which they had
purchased to. carry home. I wondered why
a modern Knox was not raised up to preach
170 LEAFLETS.
to them in these latter days, and to our surprise
as we turned into another street, there was a
man preaching in the open air, with a crowd
around him. After going to the house occu-
pied by OUver Cromwell, during his stay in
Edinburgh ; also the house where the mother
of the poet Drummond, of Hawthornden lived,
and many places where the scenes were laid
in Sir Walter Scott's stories. We returned to
our Hotel, where, reflecting on all we had
seen, a week seemed to be crowded into one
day.
CHAPTER XIV.
GRKEN CEMETERY — ARTiirR'S SEAT— MELROSE Minv.Y
— DRY BURGH A R B EY— A BROTSFO R I> .
June 17 th.
It was a lovely Sabbath morning, and the
services at St. Giles' Cathedral we found very
interesting. But as in the alternoon, none of
the churches were open for religious exer-
cises, we walked out to the Green Cemetery.
For at least half a mile before reaching the
grounds, we followed an avenue, skirted on
either side by a hawthorn hedge, which grew
quite above our heads, imparting a most de-
lightful air of seclusion. I am sure I never
entered a cemetery so bright and sunny.
The graves appeared like so many little
blooming gardens, covered with roses, violets,
and forget-me-nots. The warm sunshine
seemed lovingly to drain the tear-cup, diffus-
ing only smiles and bright hopes, and pros-
pects of an eternal day.
1 72 LEAFLETS.
On one side of the ground, we tound a plain
marble tablet, inserted in the wall, with an
iron railing in front, enclosing the grave; on
the marble we read this simple inscription :
Tl K )M A S (; H A LM l-l US. D. D.. L. L. D..
UortK March 17, 1780.
I' I Ki). M \ V :J 1 , 1847.
A few r«)ds fioni the grave ol Chalmers, on
a tablet of dark marble, we read another in-
teresting inscription :
HUGH MILLER,
DiKi). 24th dkcember, 1856,
.\ged 54 Years.
These two great men acted in different
spheres; yet how much the world is indebted
to both.
At this season of the year, the day dawns
in Scotland about three o'clock, and having
risen early to make the ascent of Arthur's
Seat — a most curious and interesting mountain
— we took this opportunity to w^alk through
many of the streets, delightful pleasure
grounds, and public gardens, while yet the
great city was slumbering. It was an hour
of reflection; how many, thought I, are all
around us locked in the embrace of unconscious
»
SEAT. 173
sleep, which is the emblem of death. I think
we saw but one person in our perambulations,
and I presume he was the morning watch.
Turning our laces toward Holyrood, in a few
moments its gray walls rose up before us.
Then crossing the Queen's Park, and taking the
winding foot-path, commenced our ascent of
the famous Arthur's Seat. It was not long be-
fore we reached an old ruin, known as St. An-
thony's Chapel, standing near, if not on the
spot, where Scott, in his " Heart of Mid Lothi-
an," speaks of Jeanie Dean's meeting the
ruffian llobertson. I was constantly gather-
ino' different varieties of the tinv flowers that
grew in such profusion all over the mountain
sides, until we reached the proud summit,
which rises eight hundred and twenty feet
above the level of the sea.
As far the eye could reach, the whole coun-
try, of wondrous beauty, seemed interlaced
with streams, like little silver threads dotted
with crystal lakes, and adorned with parks.
Just below us lay the city, dimmed with the
smoke that was creeping up slowly from un-
numbered chimneys, while the sounds of new-
ly awakening life and industry filled the
174 LEAFLETS.
morning air. Remaining there long enough
to enjoy a glorious sun-rise, we commenced to
descend, taking the wild path which extends
alcmg the high belt of semi-circular rocks,
called the Sallisbury Crags, sloping down
into the glen, where we suddenly came in
contact with a target company, whose red flags
were displayed in every direction; not wish-
ing to be detained, we consulted together a
moment, and resolved to proceed cautiously,
which, in attempting to do, we heard a voice
come sounding up the hill-sides, " out of the
way there, or j'ou'll get shot," For a moment
we were in a most horrible dilemma, as we
were too weary to return, and for our lives
we dare not stand still. Seized by the peril
of the moment, we took to our heels, as is
sometimes rudely said, and I only wish you
could have seen us running like deer, bound-
ing like a top, tumbling like logs, with every
motion in double-quick time, until we reached
the base of the mountain in safety, and out of
danger, where, after catching our breaths, we
enjoyed a good hearty laugh. One might
readily imagine we relished our breakfast
most delightfully, on arriving at our Hotel.
MELROSE ABBEY. 175
At twelve o'clock of the same day we took
the train for Melrose, a distance of thirty-
seven miles from Edinburgh, were we arrived
at four o'clock P. M. The chief attraction of
the village .is the celebrated Abbey, and the
object of our pilgrimage. It is considered
the finest and most beautiful old ruin in all
the United Kingdom, and the best remaining
specimen of Gothic architecture. Much has
been written, both in verse and prose, of " fair
Melrose," and I hardly ventured to anticipate
the effect the first sight might produce upon
my mind, much less presume to add another
line to w^hat has already been written. En-
tering the warden's gate, in a moment before
us uprose the venerable Abbey, made up of
columns, arches, buttresses, and canopied
niches filled with sculptured figures, and
quaint forms of animals and birds on carved
bracket^, adorned with flowers, leaves, twigs,
ferns, acorns, cones, and vines, so artistically
chiseled, that a straw might penetrate the
interstices. The nave and chancel are entire-
ly roofless, and hundreds of swallows and
rooks were chirping and twittering to each
other while feeding their young, or repairing
15
176 LEAFLETS.
their nests among the rubbish and bright
yellow wall-llowers. Century after century
has been slowly crumbling these magnificent
walls, and eaten out many irregular shapes
and niches; but nature in all her kindliness
has taken this beautiful ruin to her heart,
shielding it from decay by a heavy green
mantle of ivy thrown gracefully over it,
which heightens, rather than destroys its
beauty.
Within the abbey are the remains of many
a king, gallant warrior, and venerable priest.
Neai- the spot where the high altar once stood,
is a slab of dark marble, in which is imbedded
petrified shells, and under it is supposed to
rest the dust of Alexander the Second. I
gathered some little leaves and flowers, grow-
ing on the spot where was deposited the heart
of the brave Robert Bruce, it having been
buried here after an unsuccessful attempt had
been made by Douglas to carry it to the Hol}^
Land. After spending several hours, we re-
turned to our hotel, very near by, to
gain our next view of the Abbey by the pale
moonlight, which adds so many charms to the
scene.
DRYBURGH ABBEY. 177
June l^th
This is the anniversary of our wedding-day.
The ardor of our youthful affections has
passed the ordeal of live years of life's reali-
ties. But few of the snows of old Winter
have drifted upon our pathway, while much
of sunshine and happine.^s have been ours
richly to enjoy. Taking an early breakfast,
we started lor Dryburgh Abbey, the burial-
place of Sir Walter Scott. Wishing to enjoy
a morning-walk, we left the train at a small
village a mile or two from the Abbey, just as
the sun was saying good morning to earth.
Passing through one of the narrow streets, a
little bonnie lassie, yet m her night-gown, di-
rected us to the path we were to take, which
followed a little streamlet that babbled and
danced along, seeming of little use, except to
add sweet notes to nature's orchestra, vocal
with the songs of the birds, warbling in grove
and dell.
There is so much of unrestrained nature in
a skipping, laughing rill, that I love to join
in its mirth, without any of that sickly senti-
mentality which sits pensively for hours on
178 LEAFLETS.
the margin of a river to watch the "silver
moon."
The stream we were ibllowing was to
guide us to the Abbey, being a tributary
to the Tweed, Howing fast by the conse-
crated shrine. But our path, for a time di-
verging, we entered a hill-side forest, where
the ivy and cypress- vines entwined their long
tendrils lovingly around the olden oaks, just
as little children cling to their grandsires.
Tlu' pearly dew-drops were glistening and
trembling on every blade of grass; the vio-
lets, forget-me-nots, and vspring beauties, flo-
ra's delicate and fair children, which, an hour
ago, were fast asleep, now began to open
their eyes to the rays of the morning sun,
as they came straggling through the trees.
Our narrow path now became rough, leading
along projecting rocky cliffs, overhanging the
water's edge ; then down again among the
pebbles on the shore, where we inhaled the
cooling breeze as it danced over the waters,
keeping time to the music of invisible feet.
Thus it is, thought I, with the "stream of
life ;" mortals do not always glide down, calmy
and peacefully, until they land triumphantly
DRYBURGH ABBEY. 179
on the shores of immortality. At times, they
have to leave their little barque on the placid
stream, and climb for awhile over the rugged
rocks and rough mountain-sides of life. List-
ening a moment, I heard a i'amiliar voice in
advance of me call out to hasten on. I said
I might as well, once for all, give up keeping
step with Mr. N , for he will always go
before me. At this moment I was lingering
to watch the butter-cups and daisies, as they
unfolded their thin petals, fragrant with the
breath of morning, and kissing in the dew-
drops — the tears night had been weeping. I
was also intepreting their language — a purer,
holier, never found a translation. To me,
" Flowers are the alphabet of angels,
Whereby they write on hills and dales mysterious truths.'*
I tread the soil lightly, for fear of crushing
one of these children of the dust. But my
noble better half admires and studies the
older, larger members of this great family —
the sturdy oak, the proud cedars of Lebanon,
the thickly populated forests, that have en-
dured the blasts of ^olus for an hundred
years. I love the smooth pebbles that so ex-
quisitely pave the pathway of the stream,
15*
180 LEAFLETS.
or washed on the water's edge, keeping time
with the music of the waves, which is as the
sweet, gentle voices of little children at even-
tide. He loves to decipher the hieroglyphics
of nature on rough and rugged rocks that rear
their lofty heads high in the air, in " wild, fan-
tastic forms." I admire the dew-drop, that
gathers strength as it advances, until able to
overcome the impediments of the stern moun-
tain-side, marks out its own silvery course
through the smiling valley and shaded wood-
land, which nature's loving student declares
" a thing of beauty — a joy forever." He ad-
mires the majestic river, that deepens, and
widens, and swells, until it bears to the surg-
ing bosom of the mighty ocean the conmierce
of the world; or the cataract that, for miles,
shuts out every other sound in nature by its
deafening roar. I am charmed with the "still
small voices" in nature. He listens and is
charmed with the clashing thunderbolt, as it
rends the azure vault of heaven. The majestic
river; the mighty ocean; the thundering cata-
ract; the towering mountain ; the vast, dense
forest; the broad, expansive earth, with the
fullness thereof, f>rm the grand temple in
DRYBURGH ABBEY. 181
which he worships, and at whose altars he bows
— looking from "nature up to nature's God."
I enter the inner temple for worship, after
Elijah's wind rending the mountains and
breaking the rocks ; after the earthquake and
fire have passed away, when is heard only the
"still small voice" whispering to the humble
soul paying its loving tribute to the God of
nature. But, as the incense of our worship
ascends to our Creator — the great God of the
universe, the exultant notes of both strains
harmoniously blend in one " our Father made
them all!"
The crystal waters of the Tweed glided by
us as we waited on the shore a few moments
for a boy, who came and rowed us over the
liver in a little boat, landing us within ten
minutes' walk of the Abbey. At the lodge,
the custodian was a bonnie lady, who accom-
panied us to show us the ruins, deeply im-
b;)somed in noble trees, some of them the
grandest old yew-trees I ever saw. We se-
cured some twigs fj^om one as old as the
Abbey, which was founded by pious David the
First, in 1150. This, together with nearly all
the Abbeys of Southern Scotland, was built by
182 LEAFLETS.
him, as an evidence of his gratitude for the
miraculous preservation of his life, when at-
tacked by a wild stag, while hunting. Being
unable to defend himself, it is related that a
cross suddenly descended from heaven into
his hand. The stag, seeing it, tied at once in
dismay. In a dream, afterward, he received
a mandate from heaven to go on and found
these magnificent places of worship, which
he did, almost to the beggary of his kingdom.
Yet these Abbeys could not always have been
the holiest of places ; for here, in this one,
we saw, in a dungeon, a most horrible arrange-
ment for torture — a hole cut in the solid stone,
into which the prisoner's hand was thrust,
and wedged in with a wooden mallet, then
was again chained to the wall. This hole is
placed so low that the prisoner could neither
stand or lie down, but only kneel. The prin-
cipal remains of the building are the western
gable of the nave of the Church, the end of
the transept, part of the choir, and a portion
of the domestic buildings ; also St. Catherine's
circular window, twelve feet in diu meter,
beautifully radiated, and gorgeously encircled
with ivy. The western door of the Church is
DRYBURGH ABBEY. 183
built like a Roman arch, and ornamented with
roses. St. Mary's aisle is by far the most
beautiful part of the ruins; and all along
through it are now growing evergreen trees,
and a few cedars from Lebanon. As we enter,
at the right of this aisle, is the tomb of Sir
Walter Scott, who was buried here Septeml)er
26th, 1832, among the graves of his ancestors.
< n one side of his tomb is that of his wife ;
on the other, his eldest son. The tomb is
plain and simple, sheltered by this immense
structure — broken down, desolate, and lonely
in the extreme. Yet to me this consecrated
spot appeared invested with a reverential
pleasure, making it religiously lovely. As a
whole, when we consider his life, and the
closing up of his eventful career, perhaps
there is no spot in the wide world more befit-
ting for the last resting-place of the patiiarch
poet. Let the moss grow, and the ivy creep
over the mouldering walls ; let the winds sigh
through these broken arches, and whisper
among the twigs of the cedars and evergreens^
or sweep down these desolate aisles; let the
devoted pilgrims gather the roses growing
near his grave, as mementos sacred to his
184 LEAFLETS.
memory — the immortal Sir Walter Scott
sleeps well !
Leaving Dry burgh, we returned to Melrose,
and, taking a carriage, we rode to Abbotsford,
a distance of some three miles. It is also
delightfully situated on the banks of the
Tweed. On arriving at the family residence
of Scott, our coachman paused at the garden
entrance. The gardener, answering to the
bell, conducted us Hrst through the beautiful
grounds, where the flowers were in full bloom,
and the vegetables rich in abundance. Here
and there we observed quaint and curious
fragments of art, incorporated in the walls or
introduced in arbors for flowers, in a style
characteristic of the man who placed them
there. The paiks and lawns, overlooking the
smiling waters of the Tweed, are i-omantic
and lovely, commanding fine views. It was
here Sir Walter walked, and talked, and
studied, read, thought, and wrote ; and in
this house lived and died. The interior of
the building is in wonderful keeping with the
genius and taste of the master-mind w ho ar-
ranged every apartment. The entrance-room
is lighted with stained glass, and hung with
ABBOTS FORD. 185
arms of almost every description, and adorned
with thousands of curiosities. Among them
all, naturally enough, we examined with in-
terest the pistols used by Napoleon the First,
and the gun owned by the adventurous Rob
Roy. The drawing-room, dining-room, and
parlors are filled with choice relics and pres-
ents of great value, and the walls hung with
family portraits and pictures, by the best art-
ists. These were all objects of interest to
look at; but it afforded. us greater pleasure to
be in his library, whose walls are covered with
his books, and to sit at the table at which he
wrote, handle the pen and inkstand he used,
and examine the books lying on the table as
he left them, thirty years ago. 1 lingered
here, if, perchance, one single breath of his
inspiration might still laden the air. The
notes of that lyre that thrilled the world have
died away, but I seemed to hear their faint
vibrations still. In a small room adjoining
the library are the clothes last worn by him,
and the cane that supported his enfeebled
and tottering frame — sacred relics these — at
which thousands will look mournfully, and
sigh that Scott was ever born to die.
CHAPTER XV.
JEDB.URGH ABBEY — KELSO ABBEY — ROSLIX CHAPEL-
NORTHERN SCOTLAND.
June 15th.
Leaving Melrose, we took the train for, and
arrived at, Jedburgh late in the evening, and,
as the Abbey was the principal object of at-
traction in this little town, we resolved to see
it that night, and thus be ready to leave early
the next morning. At that late hour, we had
some difficulty in finding the warden. We
succeeded, however, in seeing him, and en-
tered by moonlight, which was exceedingly
bright. The traces of the flames on these
ruined walls, caused by a conflagration, when
besieged, in the times of Edward the Third,
are still visible, and added to the blackness
and gloom of viewing it at night. We wan-
dered a little time among the old tombs in the
yard surrounding the abbey, with the moon
for our lamp, hung in the vaulted heavens,
JEDBURGH ABBEY. 187
the scene was grand and imposing. Over
the intersection of the nave and transept
rises a massive square tower, with irregular
turrets, and belfry, one hundred feet high
from the top, our guide assured us, was a
charming view by moonlight of the town,
and the rich and productive soil of the sur-
rounding country. I was too weary to ascend,
but unwilling to prevent Mr. N , con-
sented to remain alone in the part rudely
fitted up with seats for a parish Church. The
darkness would have been total had not tlie
faint rays of the moon struggled through
the stained glass. The stillness and gloom
was awful: my own breathing seemed to
bring back an echo in this great sarcophagus,
filled with the inscriptions of the glory of its
dead old abbots, earls, and Augustine friars,
and surrounded with but little of the sacred
ness that
•'In dim cathedrals, dark witli vaulted p:looin;
What holy awe iuvests the silent tomb!"
Early next morning, we visited the house
occupied by Mary Queen of Scots during the
violent attack of fever that followed the long
ride of nearlv sixty miles in one day, to the
16
188 LEAFLETS.
peril of her life, at the period in her history
when the stoini-cloud hung so fearfully over
hvv. Taking the train, we arrived at Kelso,
in time foi- hreakfast, after which we visited
the Ahbey, standing out alone in its grandeur,
said to be the first-born of King David's pious
zeal. Few, if any of the abbeys of Scotland
have suffered more from invasion, plunder,
war, or flames, than this; and .^till it towers
up, in lofty proportions, a magnificent ivy-
clad ruin. About a mile from this little town
is Floors' Palace, the residence of the Duke
of Roxburgh, and, without doubt, the finest
baronial edifice in Scotland. In its extensive
park is still pointed out the holly-bush mark-
ing the spot where James the Second was
killed by the bursting of a cannon, at the
time the castle was besieged, in 1460.
Again taking the cars, and pufhng through
a pretty bit of country, we reached Roslin
Castle, a mouldering ruin, with its triple tier
of vaults, still clinging together, on a high
rock, looking down into the wildest glen I
have seen in Scotland. The Esk, almoiit hid
from sight in the dark ravine below, finds its
course through tangled willows and matted
ROSLIN CHAPEL. 189
vines. The origin of the castle is involved in
obscurity, except thtat a proud family, by the
njiine of St. Clair, once lived there, surrounded
by a wealthy and gay court. Passing the
bridge, which seems to swing over the chasm,
we continued our ramble, clambering amidst
the uneven surface o! the grounds for hours,
delighted with the wildness of the scenery,
where nature, in her happiest moments, has
so admirably combined the sublime and beauti-
ful in endless variety. We stopped at a rus-
tic, but neat little hotel, and ordered dinner.
The landlord, a genuine Scotchman, boasted
of being a descendant of the grand lairds of
the castle, but without any knowledge of their
genealogy. After doing justice to our plain,
Scotish dinner, we resumed our walk in search
of Roslin Chapel, which we found by no
means a ruin, as anticipated, but the most
perfect specimen of florid architecture in the
world. It was built four hundred years ago,
and, by constant repairs, it retains its original
appearance. The ceilings, architraves, pillars,
and capitals are loaded with sculpture, giving
the interior the appearance of a sculptured
gallery. In one of the small chapels, accord-
190 leaflp:tb.
ing to tradition, the lovely Rosabelle was
christened, and there my beloved " laird '^
placing his hand on my head, gave the prefix
of "Ev" to my name, which made me Evan-
geline. The most interesting object within
the chapel is the ^' 'Prentice's Pillar," exquis-
itely sculptured, with wr(\aths of flowers and
foliage twisted spirally around it. The his-
tory connected with this pillar is as romantic
as morally instructive. The master-ma-
son, being unable to complete this column
from the designs he had, Avent to Rome to
study a similar one there. During his absence,
his apprentice executed this beautifully-fluted
column. On his return, surprised at the skill,
and admiring the genius the youth had dis-
played, yet envious of his lame — (earing it
might supercede his own — in the moment of
anger, he struck the apprentice dead on the
spot with a mallet he held in his hand.
That night we bade adieu to
'• Roslin's towers and biaos sae boiinie,
Craigs and waters, woods and i?lcn,
Roslin's l>anks unppor'd by on}',"
and returning to Edinburgh, the next day we
started on our trip for the Highlands and Lochs
DUNFERMLINE ABBEY. 191
of northern Scotland. It was nearly sun-
down when we reached Dunfermline, and on
entering town, was surprised to find the stores
and shops closed at that early hour, and the
streets as quiet as the Sabbath day, but on in-
quiiy, learned that it was an annual fast-day.
The old Abbey standing near the new Church,
together form an immense pile of architec-
ture, and are hallowed by being the resting
place of eight kings, five queens, six princes,
and two princesses. Here is buried the body
of King Uobert the Bruce ; his heart is in-
terred in Melrose Abbey, and it is said the
Holy Father sent his soul to heaven. The
grounds and the palace, once so beautful, now
lie neglected, and rooks, a species of the crow,
build their nests there. I gathered some ivy
clinging to the crumbling frame-work of a
window which illumined the room where
Charle- the First was born. The trees, old
and stately, spread their branches over these
tuined walls. The ravine, where once crystal
waters murmured low sweet music on the ear
of royalty, is now filled up with rubbish and
filth, the accumulation of ages. On returning
to my h(;tel, I wrote a letter to my precious
10'^
192 LEAFLETS.
mother, and such is the len,<:^th of the days in
Scothind, this season of the year, that T could
see distinct]}^ to fmish it at half-past ten
o'clock P. M.
The next morning \\v. rode a few miles in
the cars, and on leaving them were hurriedly
huddled into an old Highland stage coach,
with a driver clad in plaids, who cracked his
whip and whirled us off at a rapid rate, as if
some point w^as to be reached at the peril of
every passing moment. In a short time, how-
ever, we found ovn\selves jogging at a slow rate
over the Highlands, until we reached the Tro-
sachs, wdiich are rocky, romantic defiles, where
nature displays many irregular aspects in
"i^rai^s. knolls, and mounds confusedly Imrled
The fragments of an earlier world."
As we emerged from this wilderness of rocks
and precipices, we came in sight of Loch Ka-
trine, where we soon exchanged the crowded
stage-coach for a clean little steamer waitinc:
for us. It was a bright and lovely hour as
we glided past Ellen's Isle, like an emerald set-
ting in the lake; musing on the fair maiden,
whom Scott relates as having her first inter-
view with the Knight of Snowdoun cm this
LOCH LOMOND. ]93
Isle that bears her name. We seemed too soon
to pass over this charming lake, combin-
ing so much beauty with a kind of Alpine
dignity. Stepping from the boat, Ave climbed
up a ladder into a large open wagon, in
which w^e were conveyed through the wild
valley leading to Loch Lomond, forming the
home of the MacGregors, and the haunts of
Rob Roy; the roads were rough and rocky,
the soil covered w^ith heather and broom, the
trees stunted and dw^arfish. But nothing can
surpass the beauty of Loch Lomond, the pride
of all the Scottish lakes, and according to an
old highland legend it is
" Famous for three things ;
Waves without -winds,
Fish without fins.
And an Island that swims."
It is an in egular, narrow sheet of water,
thirty miles long, and in no place more than
five wide. The scenery is exceedingly
captivating, and at many points reminding
me of views on the Hudson river, near West
Point. There is no fear of being alone on
these celebrated waters. Our little steamer
was crowded with tourists, some, like our-
194 LEAFLETS.
selves, with guide-book in hand, others with
guns and dogs, seeking recreation in these
wild districts, never resorted to for business
purposes.
No vision of loveliness 1 have ever gazed
upon, excels the mountains of Loch Lomond.
Among them all, Ben LouKmd, the giant,
towers up over thirty-two hundred feet, while
his brothers gradually diminish until they be-
come gentle elevations. At one point, they
nestle and huddle together, looking over into
the lake as if it were a mirror upon which
they are gazing; then, side by side, stretching
out in the distance, higher peaks appear as if
watching their turn to display beauty in out-
line and delicate tints of blue, until blending
in the azure of the sky.
As we glided along, far up among the crags,
we were pointed out Bruce's Cave, so called
because that chieftain secreted himself there
one night when pursued by his enemies.
Having intruded into the sleeping apartment
of a mountain goat, he fell asleep, and the
animal coming in trod upon his garments ;
supposing it to be his enemies, he sprang to
his feet, but seeing the innocent creature, he
GLASGOW. 195
was gratefully surprised, and in token ol' lii.s
good fortune, when he became king, passed a
law, and had it recorded in the statute books,
that from that time all goats should be Iree
thrcnighout Scotland, and not punishable for
any offence they might connnit. Very re-
luctantly leaving these most charming lakes,
we reached Glasgow by train toward evening,
the commercial metropolis of Scotland,
and called the cradle of steam naviga-
tion, as some of the finest steamers in the
world have been fitted out here. It is also
noted for its extensive manufactories. The
city has many points of interest, being built
on both sides of the Cl^de, which is spanned
by snperb bridges, and many of the streets^
are exceedingly beautiful. The venerable
Cathedral, some hundreds of years old, did
not fail to receive our attention A bridge
known as the " Bridge of Sighs," afibrds acces
to a very conspicuous cemetery ; the ancient
monuments, standing out against the sky,
forms a back-ground to the Cathedral. This
place is also called the Necropolis, and believ-
ed by many to have been the dark retreats of
the Druids in the olden time. On this ])old
196 LEAFLETS.
eminence, which shoots up so suddenly, stands
the monument of John Knox, giving an air
of grandeur to the whole, as the great Re-
former looks down in marble form upon one
of the most striking and varied scenes that
can be imagined.
At two in the afternoon we took the steam-
er Thistle, and swept along down the waters
of the Clyde, enjoying its fine scenery, com-
posed of hills and dales, castles and towers.
Duiing the night, we crossed the channel,
and early next morning, before sun-rise, the
rocky shore of the Emerald Isle was in view,
and on which we soon landed at the little
town of Portrush, in the north of Ireland.
CHAPTER XVI.
I R K L A N 1) — (H A N T ' P C A U S E V; A Y — B E L F A S T — I ) U H L I N .
June 24^A
At an earlj' hour, we heard the sweet
chimes proclaiming the hallowed day, and at
ten o'clock attended service in the Establish-
ed Chmxh, where the audience evinced re-
fined taste in their dress and manners, harmo-
nizing with their religious worship. In the
afternoon, we listened to a sermon in the
Wesley an Chapel, where Adam Clarke form-
erly preached and commenced his minis-
terial labors, and was born only a few
miles distant. The ground seemed sacred,
having once been pressed by such an intellect-
ual christian giant. On an eminence, about a
rod from the Chapel, there has recently been
erected a splendid monument, worthy of his
exalted memory. This lovely Sabbath, with
its jewel hours, will never be forgotten.
198 LEAFLETS.
We arose this morning, and found the rain
pouring down in torrents, but succeeded,
however, in securing a comfortable carriage,
and started lor the great Irish wonder, if not
the wonder of the world — the Giant's Cause-
way, about four miles distant. Our road lay
along the coast, and, on a pleasant morning,
it might have been charming, as it gave us an
extensive view of the surging waters ; but, in
a driving rain, it was bleak, cold, and dreary.
After riding a few miles, we came to Dun-
luce Castle, a venerable ruin, on a huge,
insulated rock, overhanging the sea, once the
residence of Earl Antrim, now the roofless
and desolate abode of howling winds, and the
haunts of hundreds of screaming sea-gulls.
The rain still continuing, we arrived at the
spacious hotel near the Causeway ; but, as we
were resolved not to be foiled in our purpose,
we descended from the carriage, and not be-
ing able to secure a guide at that eaily hour,
in the rain we started alone, braving the
storm, to find the Giant. We soon found the
mud a formidable foe, impeding our safe ad-
vance, as we came very near precipitating
ourselves headlong down a steep hill in the
giant's causeway. 199
rear of the hotel, rendered slippery by the
rain.
At the base of the hill, we took a winding
course below a ledge of rocks or cliffs, rising
nearly four hundred feet above us. Just as
we w^ere entering upon the columnar forma-
tion of basaltic rock, extending far down into
the sea, a sturdy Irish guide came rushing at
full speed after us, impelled hyfee motives, no
doubt, and hallooing, ^'Och! where are yees?
where are yees ?" When our presence gave him
our whereabouts, he continued, " An' wud yees
be comin' a mornin' the like o' this, before yees
wur out o' ye're beds?" and commenced at
once to blarneyize this, as he called, '' very
wanderful plaze." The general appearance
is not exactly as I had anticipated ; the
columns are not as high, but their strange
and peculiar forms absorbed my attention as
objects of the greatest interest. The pillars,
or columns, are irregular in their size and
form; the polj^gon, varying in number from
three to nine, with masses of triangular and
octagonal columns, crowded together; the
hexagonal usually prevailing. These angles
all exactly correspond with the column that
17
200 LEAFLETS.
adjoins its fellow so closely that the seams,
or interstices, will not admit water, except in
the case of the Giant's Well, where it bubbles
up a little. What a record the unerring
hand of nature has written, in beautiful hie-
roglyphics, on these tables ol stone ! What an
extraordinary specimen of masonry by the
great Master-Bui Ider of heaven and earth!
The enchantment of olden times still lin-
gers here, as attested by our fate-loving guide,
who insisted on our drinking three times from
the Giant's Well, which we did not hesitate to
do, as the water was as clear as crystal,
showing the bottom, formed of three hexagons,
and the sides as perfectly arranged. We
were obliged to forego the good luck of sitting
in the " Ladies' Chair," in consequence of the
rain. In another direction are several shat-
tered columns, which, at a little distance, re-
semble chimneys. Near these is the vast
semi-circular space, called the '' Giant's Thea-
tre." But the most beautiful formation is a
cluster of columns arranged m the cliff at the
side of the mountain, strikingly representing
an immense organ, with a rock forming the
Giant's Seat. Could he move these keys,
BELFAST. 201
what music would vibrate through all nature !
As the rain, the wind, and the waves, were
sweeping in tury amid these ruins of nature,
and the billows of old ocean were dancing in
triumph over these broken columns, the whole
scene was as bold and impressive in its char-
acter as it was strange and awful We re-
turned to Toi'tiush, and, taking the train,
reached Belfast that evening, a nourish-
ing manufacturing t )wn of one hundred
thousand inhabitants, and having a charming
little bay. While here, we enjoyed a drive
in a most curious vehicle, called a "jaunting-
car," and we seemed to be sailing along, with
a modern Jehu for a driver, who cracked his
whip as he whiz/ed around the corners of the
streets. The seats are the reverse of ours —
the persons sitting with their backs to each
other, their feet resting on a little board
extending over the wheels. As we whirled
through the streets, I had as much as I could
do to retain my seat and prevent my dress
from Hoating in the breeze, as there was
nothing in front to protect us. It is a jolly
way of riding, the English say; and, certainly,
to any one, a most amusing sight to see a
202 LEAFLETS.
"jaunting-car," drawn by one horse, and de-
signed only lor two persons, besides the driver,
loaded down with a dozen merry Irish boys
and girls. This is one way they enjoy life in
"ould Ireland."
The next morning, we left for Dublin, and
arrived at the city of fair women about ten
in the forenoon. Our route extended through
o
a highly cultivated countiy, impi-essing me
with the deep, dark green which everywhere
tinges the drapery of nature, and, no doubt,
gained for Ireland the name of the Emerald
Isle. As we were entering the city, a line
prospective opened before us, the hills form-
ing an amphitheatre, clad in rich verdure, and
adorned with grand old country residences.
Dublin is the capital of Ireland, and a mag-
nificent and extensive city. Many of the
streets and public buildings are strikingly
beautiful, and at every turn there is an air of
wealth and good taste, rendering it exceed-
ingly attractive. The windows in our room
at the hotel look out on Nelson's Monument,
a Doric shaft, or tinted column, over one hun-
dred and twenty feet high, surmounted by a
colossal statue of the great naval hero. The
DUBLIN. 203
Irish Wesleyaii Conference was, at this time,
holding its annual session, in which Mr.
N became deeply interested; but, as
women are not allowed to meet in their sit-
tings, I took the opportunity to go into the
large and well-filled shops and stores in^tark-
ville street — the Broadway of Dublin — where
I saw many aristocratic Irish ladies shopping.
At half-past eight o'clock that evening, a cler-
gyman whom Mr. N had met at the Con-
ference, called for us to accompany him to a
union prayer-meeting, held in a large public
hall. On arriving there, to our surprise we
found it crowded with four or ^ve thousand
people, and it was with difficulty that we suc-
ceeded in entering through a side door. It
was a glorious demonstration of the revival
now spreading throughout Great Britain.
Many, during the evening, related their ex-
perience with zeal and enthusiasm. It is
wonderful that these meetings are thus at-
tended every evening.
The first thing we did the next morning
was to climb to the top of Nelson's monu-
ment, standing in the centre of Starkville
Street, where we gained a fine view of the
17*
204
LEAFLETS.
topography of the city and its surroundings.
The most beautiful feature in the whole view
is the elegant arched bridges that span the
Lifley, which liver divides the city in nearly
equal parts. After descending, we took a
jaunting car, and rode through the Phoenix
Pai'k, containing seven miles' drive within
its gates, and enriched by a great variety of
monuments, trees, shrubs, and flowers.
■'The yew tree lends its shadows dark.
And many an old oak worn and bare,
With all their slnvered i)ouf?hs are there."'
This city has many objects of interest, de-
taining us several days. The Cathedral of
St. Patrick is a fine old building, containing
many quaint and curious monuments. The
patron saint of Ireland erected a Chapel on
this site in the middle of the fifth century.
The venerable Trinity College ; the old Houses
of Parliament; the Castle ol" Dublin; the ele-
gant Corinthian facades of the Royal Ex-
change, or City Hall; the Custom House, pro-
nounced by many to be the finest in the Brit-
ish dominions, adorned with allegorical figures
of Wealth, Navigation, Commerce and Indus-
try, and sculptured imperscmations of Europe,
GLASNEVEN CEMETERY. 205
Asia, Africa, and America, the whole crowned
by a lofty dome one hundred and twenty feet
high, which in surmounted by a proud statue
of Hope ; — all these buildings do honor to an
intelligent and patriotic nation.
In the rural Cemetery of Glasneven, we
stood beside the grave of O'Connell, who,
during his life-time, by overpowering elo-
quence, swayed the minds and controlled the
actions, if not the destinies, of his country-
men. In the same grounds, a grand monu-
ment is nearly complete, and in the crypt, at
its base, his remains are to be placed. Long
will Ireland's noble sons retain green the
memory of their eminent statesman. In St.
Ann's Church, near the house where she died,
in a modest vault, repose the remains of the
lovely and gifted Mrs. Hemans. On a tablet
is inscribed her name and age, and when she
died, accompanied by these thrilling lines
from a dirge of her own :
" Calm on the bosom of thy God.
Fair spirit ! rest tliee now !
Even while with us thy footsteps trod,
His seal was on thy brow.
Dust to the narrow homo beneath !
Soul to its place on high ;
* They, that have seen thy look in death,
No more raav fear to die.''
206 LEAFLETS.
She was boi-n in Duke Street, Liverpool,
September 25th, 1794. When very young,
she gave indications of poetical genius. Her
first printed poems entitled "Early Blossoms,"
were composed by her at the age of fourteen.
She was married to Captain Hemans, when
all of youthful beauty adorned her person,
with a profusitm of natural ringlets shading
the l)loom of her cheeks, while her brilliant
eyes gave expression to a countenance impos-
sible for a painter to describe. Her crown-
ing grace, was a love for the good and eleva-
ted as evinced in the sweet purity of her nu-
merous productions. She sweetly fell asleep
in death March 26th, 1835.
We have seen Ireland only in its most de-
lightful aspect, and passed no dreary moors,
and but few fields of peat. In the place of
the mud-houses, I have seen palaces and com-
fortable homes. Instead of coarse ugly fea-
tured women, I have been charmed with the
beautiful, robust, rosy women of Dublin, and
the north of Ireland, and in the absence of
uncultivated "Paddy," with pipe, brogans and
shillalah, have appeared before us the finest
specimens of intelligent and noble Irish gentk-
IRELAND. 207
men. We will have to leave the south of Ire-
land, with the charming Lakes of Killarney,
for another visit; why delay longer to inform
you that we must quit ould Ireland without
kissing the renowned "Blarney Stone," and
forever be deprived of the eloquence its kiss
imparts.
\ye have just received intelligence of the
death of Prince Jerome Bonaparte, the last
brother of Napoleon the First, and have de-
cided to hasten to Paris to see his body lying
in state at the Palace Royal, and to attend
his funeral — a rare privilege.
Thus we bid adieu to merrie England, bon-
nie Scotland, and swate ould Ireland, to enjoy
sunnie vine-clad France.
^
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