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Coniston Old' Man Kirkfell .. .. . Bed Pike (Wasdale) .. Grisedale Pike . Glaramara Bed Screes. Harter Fell (Mardale) .. Bed Pike (Buttermere) Ill Bell. Bobinson Seat Sandal. Harrison Stickle. Pike o’ Stickle . Carrock Fell. - ' c o © 0 High Pike ' f -> » ! «• t> CO Cawsey Pike. Black Combe .. . Honister Crag . Wansfell .. . Catbells. *1 * * 7 Penrith Beacon c Cumberland .. . Cumberland. Cumberland and Westmorland Cumberland. Westmorland. Cumberland .. . Cumberland .. . Cumberland .. ’ .. Westmorland. Cumberland. Cumberland. Westmorland. Cumberland. Westmorland.. . Cumberland. Lancashire . Cumberland .. Cumberland .. Cumberland. Cumberland. Westmorland./ ./° ./ .. Westmorland. c .. Cumberland. Westmorland. Cumberland. Westmorland. Westmorland. Westmorland. Cumberland. .. Cumberland. Cumberland .. ., Cumberland e . ,. Cumberland t . . Westmorland,, f . ?! f . Cumberland ,. ,. .. ,, Cumberland ,, ,, Cumberland 3208-6 3161-0 3118-6 3059-9 2959-8 2949 0 2927-3 2892-8 2862-6 2847-4 2791-0 2756-0 2746-0 26630 2643-0 2632-0 2631-0 2629-0 2593-0 2560-0 2541-0 2509-0 24790 2475-2 24170 2415-0 2401 0 23230 2173-0 21570 2030-0 1969-3 1700 0 1580-7 14820 12030 937-0 [English Lakes.") d Heights of Passes. Eng; Lakes xlil VIII. Altitudes op Lakes and Tarns. (Alphabetically arranged .) Angle Tarn . "Altitude in feet. 1552-8 Grisedale Tarn.. Altitude iu feet. 1767-9 Bassentlrwaite Water 225-5 Hawes Water ,. 694-4 Beacon Tarn . 536-4 Hayes Water .. 1382-7 Blea Tarn (Little Lang- dale) . 6121 Kentmere Reservoir Keppel Cove Tarn .. 972-9 1824-8 Blea Tarn (Eskdale) 700-4 Levers Water .. • • 1349-7 Blea Tarn (Watendlatli).. 1561-7 Little Langdale Tarn 339-6 Blea Water (Mardale) 1583-7 Louglirigg Tarn • • 307-6 Blelham Tarn. 138-2 Loweswater 428-9 Brothers’Water 519-9 Red Tarn .. 23562 Burnmoor Tarn 832-4 Rydal Water 180-5 Buttermerc . 330-7 Seathwaite Tarn • » 1210T Codale Tarn . 1527-7 Skeggles Water o > • 9 1016-6 Coniston Water 146-5 Small Water .. 1483-6 Crummock Water 320-8 Sprinkling Tarn • * 1959-7 Derwent Water .. .. 238-3 Stickle Tarn 1540-4 Devoke Water. 765-6 Sty Head Tarn.. 1430-3 Dock Tarn. 1321-8 Sunbiggin Tarn • * 824-3 Easdale Tarn. 914-6 Thirl mere .. .. 533-2 El ter Water . 186-7 Ullswater .. 476-6 Ennerdale Water 368-9 Wast water.. 204-4 Estliwaite Water 216-8 Watendlatli Tarn • • 8470 Goats Water . 1645-5 Windermere • ■> 133-7 Grasmere. 207-9 IX. Heights op Passes. Feet. Sticks. 2430 Esk Hause .. .. .. ,, 2370 Nan Bield Axle. 2100 Walney Scar .. .. .. 2000 Grisedale . 1929 Gatescartli. 1925 Black Sail.. 1775 Sty Head .. .. 1600 Stake .1570 Feet. Kirkstone ’. 1490 Garburn .. .. .. .. 1450 Scarf Gap .1400 Hard Knott. 1290 Wry nose . 1270 Honister Hause. 1190 Newland’s Hause .. .. 1096 Whinlatter. 1040 Dunmail Raise. 780 E R R A T A. Page 21, col. I. line 34. For “ Lysons,” read “ Denton.” „ 24, ,, II ,, 43. For “ Eden,” read “ Ehen ” „ 39, „ II. “ Gigantic cesspool.” This is not the case. Much has been done to purify the drainage. Mr. Staniforth is dead. The pictures at Storrs Hall have been dispersed. ,, 40, ,, II. For “ D. Ainsworth, Esq.,” read ‘‘E P. Rawnsley, Esq.” „ 46, „ I. line 22. For “ Stavely,” read “ Staveley.” j, 131, „ II. For “ Lord Thomas Dacre,” read Sir Thomas Dacre.” „ 143, „ I. For “ Musgrove,” read “ Musgrave.” „ 145, „ I. For “ Kirkby Stephen, 3J m. from Musgrove Stat.,” read 4 - Kirkby Stephen Stat,. 3£ m. from Musgrave.” . . .. HANDBOOK OF THE • 1 » ENGLISH LAKES, ROUTES. *** The names of places are printed in Italics only in those Routes where the pZaces are described. ROUTE TAGE 1. Lancaster to Barrow, by Carn- forth, Grange, Ulverston, Dal¬ ton, and Furness Abbeg — Furness Railway .. 1 2. Ulverston to Whitehaven, by Fox field, Bavenglass, Seascale, and St. Bees —Furness Rly.. 20 3. Ravengdass to Ambleside, by Boot (Rail), Eskdale and Little Langdale .. .. .. 28 4. Ulverston to Coniston, by Foxfield and Broughton — . Rail . 31 5. Lancaster to Ambleside, by Carnforth, Oxenholme, and Kendal —Rail; Bowness and Windermere Lake .. .. 32 6. Shap to Ambleside, by Hawes - water and Mar dale Green — on foot .. . 44 7. Bowness (or Ambleside) to Coniston, by Esthwaite Water and Hawkshead —Coach .. 46 8. Ambleside to Coniston — Coach; Coniston Water ; Valley of the Duddon .. 48 9. Coniston to Wasdale Head : 1. By Walney Scar. 2. By Tilberthwaite —on foot .. 53 10. Ambleside to Great and Little Langdale —Coach .. .. 54 11. Ambleside to Keswick, by Langdale, Stake Pass and Borrowdale—on foot .. .. 58 12. Ambleside (or Windermere ) to Patterdale, by Kirkstone Pass—Coach ..50 13. Ambleside to Keswick, by [English Lakes .] ROUTE TAGE Grasmere and Thirlmere — Coach.G1 14. Keswick to Wasdale Head, by Borrowdale and Sty Head- on foot .. . 68 15. Keswick to: — 1. Bassen- thwaite Water; Ascent of Skiddaw. 2. St. John's Vale; Ascent of Saddleback .. .. 77 16. Keswick to Patterdale and Ullswater:—1. By Trout- beck. 2. By Penrith. 3. By the Sticks Pass . 82 17. Keswick to Crummock Water and Buttermere : — 1. By Whinlatter and Yale of Lorton. 2. By Vale of New- lands. 3. By Borrowdale and Honister Crag . 83 18. Lancaster to Carlisle, by Tebay, Shap and Penrith — L. & N. W. Railway .. .. 90 19. Skipton to Carlisle, by Settle and Appleby ; to Keswick by Penrith—Midland Railway 99 20. Penrith to Carlisle, by Kirk- oswald — Road ; Lowther Castle .. ..100 21. Penrith to Whitehaven, by Keswick, Cockermouth and Workington —Rail .. .. 107 22. Whitehaven to Wastwater, by Egremont, Calder Bridge and G os forth —by Road .. 113 23. Whitehaven to Carlisle, by Workington, Maryport and Wig ton —Railway .. .. 120 • 24. Carlisle to Silloth, by Burgh- 13 2 Route 1,—Lancaster to Furness Abbey . ROUTE TAGE on-Stnds —Rail; Soho ay Moss and Netherby —Rail .. .. 124 25. Carlisle to Gilsland Spa, by Wet he ml, Corby Castle , and Naworth Castle —Rail .. 127 26, Penrith to Amlbesile, by ROUTE PAGE Pooley Bridge, Ullswater , Patterdale and Kirk stone ' Pass —Coach .135 27. Penrith to Appleby, Brouyh Castle , Kirhby-Stephen and KirLby-Lonsdale —Rail .. 141 ROUTE 1. LANCASTER TO FURNESS ABBEY, AND BARROW. BY CARNFORTH,ARNS!DE, GRANGE, HOLKER, ULVERSTON, LINDAL, AND DALTON, BY WHITE¬ HAVEN AND FURNESS RAILWAY— 35 m. LANCASTER, $ f. Two short lines of rail connect Lancaster with the coast at Morecambe and at Glasson Dock (10 min.). Morecambe $ is much frequented by the factory hands of the large towns in Yorkshire. It is also joined to the Midland system by a branch from Hellifield. By this route Leeds may be reached in 2 hrs. Lancaster was a Roman stat., and possessed a camp on the lofty site of its present Castle in the 1st cent. The mound on which it stands is supposed to be partly artificial. From the ap¬ pearance of the foundations, it seems that 2 round towers, distant from each other about 90 paces, were connected by open galleries. The view from the castle is one of great beauty: in front is the fine expanse of Morecambe Bay, on the rt. the mountains of Westmorland and Cum¬ berland, and to the 1. the Lune wind¬ ing through fertile meadows and a rich variegated country. Camden says,—“ The river Loan or Lune sees Lancaster on its S. bank, the chief town of the county. The Scots call it Lancaster from the river near which it is built. From the name of the river the designation of the place seems to have been the ancient Longavicum, where, under a Roman lieutenant, a cohort of the Longovica, which took its name from that place, was posted.’' There are many Roman remains. Lancaster was bestowed by William the Con¬ queror on Roger of Poictou, who built or added to the castle in 1094 ; and it became the capital of a Norman noble, who was further enfeoffed by William of 398 English manors and of the whole county of Lancashire. The city early acquired extensive privileges, among which were an assize of bread, a pillory, and a gal¬ lows. In the reign of Edw. III. Lan¬ cashire was raised to the dignity of a Palatinate, and its capital became the residence of John of Gaunt, “ time- honoured Lancaster,” the 4th son of Edw. III., who created him Duke of Lancaster. Edward granted it a charter in 13G3, and John of Gaunt built the magnificent gateway of the castle and also the tower, still called by his name. The castle, which was for many years his residence, rises close above the railway 1., but little is seen of it thence. The greater part is modern and is occupied by the Assize Courts. The terrace- walk, carried nearly round the castle- walls, forms a pleasant promenade. Outside the castle, and near the ch.-yard, is a spot called the “ Hang¬ ing-corner,” where the gallows used to be erected for executions. There are altogether 5 towers—the Great Norman Keep is surmounted by a turret called John of Gaunt's Chair; the Dungeon Tower, a small square 1* N.B. —$ is attached to names of places in the body of the book concerning which further information will be found in the Index. Route 1.— Lancaster: Churches; Roman Catholic Cathedral. 3 tower on the S. side ; Adrian’s Tower; and the Well Tower : the last 3 are supposed to have been built on Roman foundations. On entering the quadrangle the modern character of the greater part of the building is apparent. There are the assize-courts, gaol, and apartments for the officers. The walls of the great tower or keep are 10 feet thick, and of immense strength; within this tower is the prison-chapel. * The Assize-Courts, which were opened in 1700, are spacious and handsome; but since the division of the county and the consequent transfer of the greater portion of its legal business to Liverpool, the assizes, which for¬ merly occupied a fortnight or 3 weeks, now seldom extend beyond 2 days. In the Crown Court the Judge’s chair is surmounted by some richly- carved woodwork, and by a large painting of George III. on horse¬ back, by Northcote. At the back of the dock in this court is to be seen the “ holdfast,” into which were put the left hands of criminals who had been sentenced to be burned in the hand, the punishment being inflicted in open court. The castle was besieged and taken by Cromwell, and on the S.W. side of the town may be seen remains of the trenches and of the batteries for breaching the walls. St. Mary’s Church on the hill was built on the site of a Benedictine priory. Most of it is loth cent., some of it 13th cent. work. The aisles are divided from the body of the ch. by 8 pointed arches, the capitals of the supporting pillars being richly sculptured with foliage. There are some good wood-carvings in the chancel. The tower was rebuilt in 1759. There is a brass to the memory of Thomas Covell, in his aldermanic robes, with an inscription, a curious literary composition. The E. window is of stained glass, repre¬ senting the Crucifixion and the As¬ cension. There are 3 good windows by Clayton and Bell. The N. aisle contains 3 memorial windows. There is a monument, by Roubilliac, of William Stratford, LL.D., and one to the memory of Sir Samuel Eyre, one of the Judges of the Court of King’s Bench in the reign of William III. Christ Church was erected and en¬ dowed by Samuel Gregson, Esq., one of the members for the city, and was opened in 1859. It is in the Early Eng. style, of which it is a good specimen. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, in the East Road, is a fine building, erected in 1859. The cost of its con¬ struction was 15,000?. The tower and spire are 240 ft. high. The style is Geom. Gothic. The groined ceiling of the chancel is decorated with gold and colours. The High altar and the Lady-cliapel altar are composed of various coloured marbles. The 3 E. windows are of stained glass ; the centre one representing the Ascen¬ sion ; the 1., St. Peter standing in the Gateway of Heaven, and receiving the Keys; that on the rt., St. Paul caught up to the third Heaven, and his Conversion on the way to Da¬ mascus. The monastic - looking structure, which forms a prominent object on approaching the city, and close to the rly. on the rt., is Ripley’s Hospital for Orphans, erected by the widow of Thomas Ripley, Esq., a native of Lancaster, and a Liverpool merchant, in compliance with the wishes of her husband, who had de¬ voted 100,000?. to the purpose. It is in the Early-Pointed style of the 12th cent., and is intended for the education of 150 boys and 150 girls. The foundation-stone was laid in 1856. The building cost 25,000?. At Horseshoe Corner in the town is a horseshoe fixed in the pavement, and which is renewed at certain inter¬ vals. The custom is supposed to have originated in the time of John of Gaunt, who once rode into the town upon a charger which lost its shoe E 2 4 Boute 1 .—Furness District— Morceambe Bay . at this place. It was taken up and fixed in the middle of the street, and a new one has been regularly placed there every 7th year, at the expense of the townsmen who reside near the spot. The Town-hall is a heavy edi¬ fice, built of freestone, and contains a few portraits. Lancaster, as a seaport, was once of greater importance than Liverpool. When Charles I. levied ship-money, Lancaster was assessed at 301., Liver¬ pool 25Z., and Preston at 20 1., for fitting out a ship of 400 tons. The pop. has increased of late years, silk, thread, rly. waggons, and cocoa-mat¬ ting being the main industries. The quiet of the streets presents a great contrast to the stir and bustle of most other Lancashire towns. The Furness District can be most conveniently approached from Lan¬ caster by the Furness Ely., and the tourist is strongly recommended to visit that portion of the Lake country first. The tract called Furness is bounded on the W. by the river Dud- don, on the N. by Cumberland, on the E. by Westmorland, and on the S. by the sea. The mountain of Black Combe is a noble termination to its N. boundary. The tract called “ Fur¬ ness Fells,” Camden says, “ is all mountains and high rocks, among which the ancient Britons lived, se¬ curely relying on those natural fast¬ nesses, which, however, were not im¬ pregnable to the Saxon conqueror, for that the Britons lived here in the 228th year after the first arrival of the Saxons in the S. part of the island is proved by the curious historical fact, that a king of the Northum¬ brians gave to St. Cuthbert the land called Cartmel, and all the Britons on it, as is related in his Life. This district was long renowned for the wealthy and magnificent Abbey of Furness and its two dependent Pri¬ ories of Conishead and Cartmel.” Morecambe Bay, which receives the waters of the Lune, the Keer, the Winster, the Kent, and the Leven, is environed by scenery of singular beauty. The irregular and indented shores are diversified by numerous vales, parks, woods sloping to the waters edge, interesting old towns, and picturesque villages. At low water the sands form a plain of great extent, from which the ranges of the Westmorland and Cumberland mountains are seen to great advan¬ tage. The old route over the sands, now superseded by the rly., began at Hest Bank, 3 m. from Lancaster, and the track was marked by branches of trees, called “ brogs,” stuck in the sand. On reaching Kent’s Bank the coach travelled for a few miles on the Cartmel shore, and then crossed the estuary of the Leven to Ulverston. The construction of a rly. across the head of Morecambe Bay for a distance of 8 m., partly on solid em¬ bankments and partly on iron via¬ ducts, is one of the most remarkable achievements of modern engineering science. The bay extends above 17 m. inland from the point of embouchure in the Irish Channel, and is of an average width of 10 m. Towards the head of the bay the waters shoal very much, and an immense extent of sand and alluvial mud is left high and dry at low water. Down to the time when the rly. was opened (1857) the coach plied across the sands from Lancaster to Ulverston, and vice versa, each day, and many were the hairbreadth escapes that occurred in the crossing. Nor did travellers always escape the perils of the journey. In 1325, 16 lives were lost at one time, as we learn from a petition presented by the Abbot of Furness in consequence. The registers of the parish of Cartmel show that not fewer than 145 persons have been buried in its churchyard, who were drowned in attempting to pass the sands. This is independent of similar burials in other churchyards in adjacent parishes on both sides of the bay. In the spring of 1846 a party of 9 young men and women, Rotlte i .—Mordcdmbe Bay ; returning from the hiring-fair at Ulverston, fell into a hole and were drowned; and in 1857, 7 young men m crossing to the hiring-fair at Lancaster, were overtaken by the advancing tide, when every one of them perished* The principal danger arose from the treacherous nature of the sands and their constant shifting during the freshes which occurred in the rivers flowing into the head of the bay. A guide was appointed by the Government at the noble salary of 12?. a year, to point out the track at low water. The office is still in existence. The first project of embanking the Lancaster sands was formed by Mr. Housman. The Duke of Bridgwater supported the scheme, which was to cost 200,000?., but it fell through. Subsequently in 1837 Stephenson recommended the construction of a rly. from Poulton, near Lancaster, to Humphry Head, on the opposite coast, as part of a west-coast line to Scotland. He proposed to carry the road across the sands in a segment of a circle of 5 m. His design was to drive piles for the whole length, and form a solid fence of stone blocks on the land side of the piles for the pur¬ pose of retaining the sand and silt brought down by the rivers from the interior. It was calculated that the value of the 40,000 acres of rich alluvial land thus reclaimed from the bay would have more than covered the cost of forming the embankment. But the scheme was not prosecuted, and a line was subsequently adopted, though in a greatly modified form, by the Ulverston and Lancaster Rly. Company, at the suggestion of Mr. Brogden, a wealthy railway con¬ tractor, whose residence was on Holme Island, Grange, close to the rly. of which he may be said to have been the projector. It was his wish to have taken the line straight across the bay, somewhat after Mr. Steph¬ enson’s plan ; but it was eventually determined to carry the rly. nearer 5 to the land across the estuaries of the rivers Kent and Leven. The work during its progress was a daily encounter with difficulties oc¬ curring at every flux and reflux of the tide, besides the constant washing of the railway embankment on the land side by the rivers flowing into the sea ; and when to the flow of the tide was added the force of a south-westerly storm, the temporary havoc made in the embankments was calculated greatly to discourage the projectors of the undertaking. The principal difficulties were met with in crossing the channels of the Leven and Kent rivers. In making the trial borings nothing but sand was found to a depth of 30 ft. In one case the boring was carried 70 ft. down, and still there was nothing but sand. It was necessary, in -the first place, to confine the channels of the rivers to a fixed bed, which was accomplished by means of weirs most ingeniously constructed to counteract the effect of the eddies upon the line of the embankment or main weir. When the currents had been fixed, viaducts, of 50 spans of 30 ft. each, were thrown over the channels, and in each viaduct was placed a draw¬ bridge, to permit the passing of sail¬ ing vessels. To protect the founda¬ tions of the piers of these viaducts, as well as the rly. embankment, weirs were also formed parallel with the current of the stream, which had the further effect of retaining the silt in¬ land, and thus enabling large tracts of valuable land to be reclaimed. The land thus reclaimed behind the em¬ bankments of the Kent estuary is now under cultivation, where onlv a short time since fishermen were accus¬ tomed to ply their trade. The chief difficulty which the engineer, Mr. Brunlees, found was in making good a solid foundation amidst the shifting sands for the piers of the extensive viaducts across the mouths of the rivers. He finally overcame this by the use of iron disc Route 1.— Camforth—Am side. 0 piles, which he sunk to an average depth of 20 ft. by means of hydraulic pressure. The water, being passed through a pipe down the interior of the pile, loosened the sands imme¬ diately beneath the disc, and allowed the pile to sink by its own weight; after the pressure of water was with¬ drawn the piles were driven down 2 in. further by short blows from a heavy “ tup ; ” and up to the present time, though supporting a rly. upon which there is a very heavy traffic, they have given no signs of subsid¬ ence. The interior of the embank¬ ments is generally formed of sand, the slopes on the sea side being pro¬ tected by layers of puddle, 12 in. thick, “ quarry rid,” G in. thick, and stone pitching, from 8 to 1G in. in thickness. On the landward side the slopes of the embankment are pro¬ tected by pitching or sods, according to position. The entire work must be regarded as a complete triumph of English engineering over that element which usually tests its highest skill. Gm. Carnforth Stat.—The L.N. W. main line continues to Carlisle, for which, see Rte. 18. Here comes in a branch from the Midland main line. There is a good service of trains in correspondence with the Furness Rly. From Skipton, 38 m., there are five trains daily, the fastest arriving in 58 min. and going on to Furness Abbey in 44 min. Carnforth is a very important postal centre. The Furness Rly. commences from this stat., where a change of carriages takes place. From Lancaster nearly to Ulverston the rly. commands fine views of Morecambe Bay. The shelving shores of limestone and the verdure of the woods present fine contrasts of colour, and the manner in which the white mountain-lime¬ stone sometimes crops out on the tops of the bald hills gives them a very peculiar appearance, in some places as if they were covered with hoar¬ frost. The quartz caps on some of the mts. on the W. coast of Scot¬ land have a similar effect. Close by is a hill called Moothow, which may have been an early court of justice. In Aug. 1G51 Charles II. camped here for a day on his way from Scotland. The rly. crosses the little river Keer soon after it quits Carnforth Stat. There is an adage which proves the influence of this and the other rivers which fall into the bay in rendering the old route over the sands so dangerous—• “ The Kent and the Keer Have parted many a good man and his meear ” (mare). 9J m. Silverdale Stat. $—The vil¬ lage, prettily situated on Morecambe Bay, lg m. from the stat., is resorted to as a watering-place in the bathing season; but the lodging-houses are few. Large quantities of cockles and “ Hooks ” (flounders) and other flatfish arc taken here and sent to the nearest market-towns. A ravine leading past Lindeth Tower to the sea should be visited. The limestone crops out picturesquely, and forms escarpments, clothed with lichens, ferns, and other plants. Quiet, sea-air, and pleasing scenery, may be enjoyed here. 2 m. from Silverdale on the opposite hill¬ side is Leighton Hall (R. T. Gillow, Esq.). 11£ m. Arnside Stat. [Here is a short line connecting with the L. N. W. Ry. and Kendal.] This place is developing as a seaside resort, its hotel accommodation being im¬ proved.— Arnside Knot is seen on the 1., with Arnside Tower, a massive square building, from which fine views of the bay, Peel Castle, and the estuary of the Kent are commanded. In former days it was a Border stronghold; the walls are of great thickness, with small windows, and numerous embrasures. The interior is a mere shell: but there are remains of the massive staircase. The ruin is finely situated on a knoll, with Middleton Wood on one side and 7 Route 1.— Grange — Cartmel. Arnside Knot oil the other. On the rt. of the rly. is Heslop Tower, another old fortress, once used as a beacon. The district possesses much interest for the geologist and the botanist. The limestone formation is well displayed, and the hedgerows produce some rare ferns. Arnside Knot (522 ft.) is a hill crowned with larch plantations: the view from it will repay an ascent. In the valley there is a small lake, called Hawes Tarn, said to contain immense quan¬ tities of pike, and remarkable for a thick bed of white minute univalve sea-shells. The limestone ridges to the E. form a prominent feature in the landscape, and to the N. is seen the estuary of the Kent, backed by Helvellyn and Fairfield. The Kent is here crossed by a viaduct, from which the limestone crag of Whit- barrow Scar is seen to great advantage on the rt. The rly. skirts the shore, of which 100 acres have been re¬ claimed from the sea by the embank¬ ment. The wooded knolls add much to the beauty of the scenery. 144 m. Grange Junct. Stat. $ Here is a short branch line by Arnside and Oxenholme to Kendal (Rte. 5). The village is situated on an estuary at the foot of Yewbarrow, and is sheltered by picturesque and lofty crags, richly wooded. From the Esplanade leading from Church Square along a terrace overlooking the Bay, fine views are to be had of Holme Island, Arnside Knot and Morecambe. The scenery has made Grange a favourite resort, which is highly appreciated as a winter residence, the mean temperature being higher than that of any other place in the N. of England. It is sheltered from the N. and W. winds by lofty hills. Lindal Lane, on road to New¬ by Bridge, should be visited, together with Yewbarrow, which overlooks the estuary and the opposite shore of Arnside. The top of Yewbarrow presents phenomena of some interest to the geologist. The limestone is much waterworn and scarred with fissures or cracks. Near Castle Head, in the lower escarpment of rock on the S. side, the junction of the two formations of slate and lime¬ stone is very distinctly marked. Hampsfell, 3 m. from Grange, is worth an ascent. Picturesque masses of limestone here crop out from the heathery waste, and their crevices are filled with beautiful ferns. The Hospice is a modern building, erected by an incumbent of Cartmel for the shelter of visitors. The interior of the tower is provided with stone seats and a fireplace. There is a tablet with a poetical inscription. Most of the Westmorland and Cumberland mountains are seen from Hampsfell, and the hills of Yorkshire in the distance to the E. [Cartmel, 2§m. N.W. of Grange, a small, quiet, and primitive old town, should be visited. Its fine old Church is said to be the only con¬ ventual building in Lancashire that escaped mutilation after the dissolu¬ tion of the monasteries. The priory was founded a.d. 1188 by William Mareshall, Earl of Pembroke, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is one of the finest and most interesting specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in the district, and affords examples of almost every style, from Transitional Norm, down to late Eng. Cartmel was never raised to the dignity of an abbey. The charter declares that the Earl founded it “ for the increase of our holy religion, giving and granting to it every kind of liberty that heart can conceive, or the mouth utter.” The priory was enriched by many subsequent benefactors. The char¬ ter was confirmed by Edw. III. Hen. VIII. dissolved the priory, the establishment of which at the time consisted of 10 monks and 38 ser¬ vants. The ch. tower is remarkable for its plan, the upper portion being set diagonally upon the lower. The interior of the ch. is a fine specimen 8 Route 1 .—Holme Island—Wraysholme Tower. of the Early Eng.; the centre is supported by large and tine clus¬ tered pillars. The walls of the choir and transept belong to the first erec¬ tion ; the windows are of later date. The noble E. window is 40 ft. high, and contains a little ancient stained glass. There are 2 fine Norm, door¬ ways, of about the date 1188. The nave is of the 15th cent., and was plastered and whitewashed by the Puritans ; the whole of this disfigure¬ ment has now been removed, and the walls have been restored to their original state. For nearly 2 centuries the chancel was without a roof: the fine oak stalls suffered accord¬ ingly. Their seats are 500 years old, with grotesque carvings, the work, doubtless, of the monks; but the upper portions are modern. Mr. Preston, a former owner of Holker Hall, commenced the restoration of the ch. in 1640, and erected the carved-oak screen. There are 2 chapels ; one called the Pyper choir, which has a groined stone roof, and the other, the Town choir. Two lights in the window at the E. end of the latter are blocked up to make room for Lowther monuments. The arches in the clerestory were walled up until 1859, when they were discovered by accident. The capitals of the pillars are of richly-sculptured foliage. On the N. side of the aisle is an altar- tomb of William de Walton, the first or second prior. There is a magni¬ ficent monument to Sir John Harring¬ ton and his wife (1305), recumbent beneath a fine fretwork arch, and decorated by numerous symbolical figures. The base is ornamented by grotesque images of chanting monks. The elaborate decorations of the upper portion of the tomb represent some of the events of the Passion, such as the buffeting before Pilate, the scourging, &c. In the vestry is a valuable library of nearly 300 books, bequeathed by Thomas Preston of Holker, in 1692, including a Bible, printed at Basel in 1511; an edition of Thomas Aquinas, printed at Venice, 1506 ; and some other rare specimens of early typography. This interesting old church has been, in a great degree, restored to its primitive beauty, chiefly at the expense of the Duke of Devon¬ shire, liberally aided by the subscrip¬ tions of some of his neighbours. The present porch was erected in 1626. There are some remains of the monas¬ tic buildings belonging to the priory. 3 m. from the town is the Holy Well of Cartmel, a medicinal spring, which once attracted many visitors. Stave- ley in this parish was the birthplace of Dr. Law, Bishop of Carlisle, and a well-known divine in the 18th cent.] Holme Island, opposite Grange, has been converted into a tasteful domain, the property of Mr. Brunlees ; the mansion is surrounded by plea¬ sure-grounds. The island is about 11 acres in extent. The house is situated in the centre of the island. The grounds arc not shown during the residence of the proprietor. A causeway connects the island, with the mainland. 1 m. from Grange is Merlewood (Mrs. Horrocks). From Grange an excursion may be made to the promontory of Humphry Head (4 m.), commanding a fine panoramic prospect. Here, accord¬ ing to tradition, Sir John Harrington killed the last wolf in England. 16| m. Kent’s Bank Stat. A com¬ modious Inn has been erected on the hillside; the old one being now the Furness Collegiate School. Between the Head and Kent’s Bank is the famous Kirkhead Cavern, which yielded to Mr. Morris’s exploration human and animal remains, bronze ornaments and Roman coins. The cave had evidently been undisturbed for at least 1800 years, as a coin of Domitian (a.d. 84) lay just below the surface. On rt. of rly. is Wraysholme Tower, an old “p ee l ” house of the Harring¬ tons. In the farmhouse 2 diamond panes still show the Stanley arms. Route 1 .—Holker Hall: Pictures. 9 [Holker Hall, 4 m« from Grange, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire, on the 1. hank of the estuary of the Leven, and surrounded with noble woods. It lies at the foot of the Cartmel Fells, and commands fine views of the estuary. The park slopes • gently down to the water's edge, and is well stocked with deer. The mansion, with its collection of pictures, and its exquisite gardens, is most liberally shown, even during the residence of the Duke. The Hall is most easily reached from Cark Stat., \ m. from the lodge ; but a visitor of Cartmel will find the walk thence to Holker very agreeable. Quitting the town, he will turn into a road on the 1., and, passing through several fields, ascend a hill to the rt., which leads to the lodge. On thert. of the mansion- house is a figure in freestone of Sir Geoffry Hudson, the dwarf attached to the Court of Charles I., armed, and holding an arquebuss in his right hand. The house contains a great deal of fine carved oak furniture. The collection of pictures, which consists chiefly of fine landscapes such as only the largest galleries can show, was chiefly formed in the latter part of the last century, by Sir William Lowther, and, together with Holker Hall, which in the reign of Elizabeth was owned by the Prestons, passed by marriage into the possession of the Burlington family. The fire of 1871 destroyed 103 out of 1G2 pictures, among them being several portraits by Sir P. Lely , and one by Reynolds. The Staircase. — II Cigoli, St. Francis; a picture by Lucas , repre¬ senting two of the sons of the Duke of Devonshire, with a pony; Pynalter, a landscape. Billiard - room. — Claude Lor¬ raine, 2 grand pictures; one repre¬ senting the Repose in Egypt, the figures thought to be by Sassoferrato; Rubens, a landscape. Jacob Ruysdael, a little landscape, remarkable for feeling for nature, and clever hand¬ ling.” Hobbema, on wood, a picture of the first class in composition, as well as in size, carefully as well as spiritedly executed; William Van de Velde, a quiet sea, a beautiful picture, of warm colouring; Cornelius Poelem- burg, a landscape, with Tobit and the Angel; Verboom, a landscape, of sunny transparency; a picture by Roland Savery, of Daniel in the lions’ den. Dining-room. — Claude Lorraine, one of his largest pictures, the Temple of the Muses, of great grand¬ eur and coolness of effect, and of thoroughly careful execution; Van- dycli , portrait, said to be of himself; Jacob Ruysdael , 2 fine landscapes ; Zuccarelli, 2 pleasing landscapes; Baclchuysen, a sea-piece; Borgog- none , two spirited battle-pieces; Frederich Moucheron, a good land¬ scape ; 2 Wouvermans, landscapes, with figures; Horace Vernet, a sea- piece, representing a storm; Caspar Poussin, a landscape, a very fine composition. The Library contains several por¬ traits by Sir Peter Lely , and a portrait of Sir Isaac Newton; a picture by Vandyclt, representing Charles I., from three different points of view ; Sir Joshua Reynolds, portrait of Sir William Lowther. The visitor will notice with interest a portrait of the unfortunate Lord Frederick Cavendish (murdered in Phoenix Park, Dublin, in 1882), and another of Lady Frederick Cavendish, both by George Rich¬ mond, juu. The Drawing-room contains a large number of water-colour draw¬ ings by He Wint, Copley Fielding, David Cox, Fripp, Whaite, Evans, Varley, &c. There is also a small full-length portrait of the Countess of Southampton by Vandyck, which should be noticed, and a caricature by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 10 Route 1.— Carle — Vlverslort. * The Corridors are ornamented with many historical portraits.] The fishing-villages on the Cart- mel coast are very primitive places; large quantities of shellfish, flounders, and plaice are taken by stake-nets in the bay. From the hamlet of Flook- burgh (once a market-town to which Edw. I. granted a charter) alone 1000 tons of cockles are sent in the course of the year to the various market- towns of Lancashire. The “ cocklers ” belong to the poorest class ; and al¬ though all are intent on the same pursuit, they are said never to quarrel, in consequence of a belief that if they did the cockles would all leave the sands with the following tide. The cockles lie buried about an inch below the surface ; and their place is known by two little holes or eyes in the sand ; and they are jerked out into a basket by a three - pronged bent fork, called a “cram.” An expert “ cockier ” will collect 1G quarts of cockles in an hour. Cark Hall (H. F. Rigge, Esq.), the ancient seat of the Curwens, an old mullioned manorhouse, and one of the most complete in N. Lancashire. One of the bedrooms is panelled, and contains a large carved oak mantel¬ piece. Bigland Hall, N. of Cark, is another old house with a singular inscription on the old oak chinmey-piece. 19| m. Cark Stat. The rly. passes close to Holker Park. There is a good view of the mansion on the rt.; on the 1. is Chapel Island, upon which the monks of Furness built an oratory, where prayers were daily offered for the safety of the people crossing the sands. An arch and some portions of the walls remain. The shores of the Leven estuary here present a beautiful combination of limestone crags, hanging woods, and grassy mounds, with the moors and mountains in the distance. In crossing the estuary of the Leven, when the tide is high* a superb view is seen on the rt. The Coniston range is easily recognised, with Helvellyn and the Fells N. of Ambleside to the rt. On the rt., as the town is ap¬ proached, is Hoad Hill, upon which has been erected a monument -100 ft. high, in imitation of the Eddystone lighthouse, to the memory of Sir John Barrow, for many years Secre¬ tary of the Admiralty, and a native of this town. The monument was erected in 1850, and is of wrought limestone. The diameter of the in¬ terior is 19 ft.; a staircase leads to the top. On the 1. are the woods of Conishead Priory. Passing 1. the sea entrance of the canal we reach 25 m. Ulverston Junct. Stat., a market-town (10,000)$. There is a small line from here to Conishead Priory (2 m., see below), train daily. ranch Railway to Windermere. Another branch leads by Greenodd and Haverthwaite to Lake Side$ at the foot of Windermere, whence the steamboats start for the Ferry, Bow- ness, and Ambleside. Greenodd Stat. Here the Crake River pours into the Leven the waters of Coniston. There is a ‘good road to the Lake Bank Hotel (5 m.) at the foot of Coniston Water. Follow¬ ing the well-wooded bank of the bright Leven we approach Haverthwaite Stat. and Newby Bridge Stat. $. The origi¬ nal starting-point for the steamers, which do not now come below Lake Side Stat. (Hotel). For the voyage up Windermere, see Rte. 40.] Ulverston is pleasantly situated in a valley. It is an old-fashioned town, the capital of the Furness district, and ‘\yas granted, with a manor attached, to the Abbey of Furness, by King Stephen. The Itoute 1.— Ulverston — Swartmoor. 11 name of the town is supposed to have been derived from Ulphus, a Saxon noble, who extended his conquest to Furness. The commercial import¬ ance of Ulverston was considerably increased by the canal made in 1795, under the direction of Rennie, the celebrated engineer. It is capable of admitting ships of 400 tons burthen. Of late years, however, the opening of Barrow Docks has robbed this port of nearly all its trade. The iron- mines in the neighbourhood now give the town its chief importance ; but it also possesses a few manufactures. The Church (St. Mary’s), origin¬ ally erected in 1111, on an eminence overlooking the town, was partly re¬ built in the reign of Henry VIII., and again in 1804, and at the cost of 8000Z. in 1865. The plan was by Paley, architect, of Lancaster. The front, as seen from the churchyard, has rather an imposing appearance. It is built entirely of red sandstone from St. Bees; the style is Perp. The porch is a fine feature, and the figures on the arch are well sculp¬ tured. The octagonal font of Caen stone is tastefully ornamented with emblematic designs. The pillars of the seven arches on each side of the nave have been underpinned—a diffi¬ cult and delicate operation which was rendered necessary by the lowering of the level of the floor of the church. The pulpit, like the font, is of Caen stone. Every window is of stained glass, several of them memorial. The centre E. window, to the memory of Benson Harrison, Esq., is by Wailes. and was given by his widow. m. from the town is the village of Dragley Beck ; and fronting the Bardsea road is a small cottage, the birthplace of Sir John Barrow; over the door is the motto, “ Paulum suf- ficit.” Swartmoor Hall, formerly the re¬ sidence of George Fox, the founder of the Quaker sect, 1 m. from Ulvers¬ ton, on the road to Urswick, is a large irregular Elizabethan edifice. The place is of some historical inte¬ rest, as having been the place where the first regular meetings of the Society of Friends were held. The house was for a long period in a very dilapidated state; but it has under¬ gone a complete renovation, and has been converted into a comfortable re¬ sidence. A portion of it is occupied as a farm-house. There are some in¬ teresting old carved oak mantelpieces. One of the rooms is pointed out as having been the study of Judge Fell. The uppermost of the three front windows was that of Fox's study, from which he is said to have occa¬ sionally preached. The house be¬ came the property of Fox on his marriage with the widow of Judge Fell, who was one of his first con¬ verts. In 1652, while travelling in Furness, Fox called at Swartmoor Hall, and in the absence of the Judge, then on circuit, preached to Mrs. Fell and her daughters with so much success that they at once adopted the tenets of Quakerism. On his return the Judge was much distressed at the change which had taken place in the religious opinions of his family ; whereupon Fox requested permission to explain his doctrines, which he did so much to the satisfaction of the Judge that he became a steady friend and disciple of Fox, and established a weekly meeting at the Hall. Fox married the Judge’s widow in 1669. She died at Swartmoor Hall in 1702. J m. from the house is the first Quakers’ meeting - house built in England. Swartmoor, 2 m. S.W. of Ulvers¬ ton. The army which invaded England from Ireland, in 1487, to support the pretensions of the im¬ postor Lambert Simnel, and which included 2000 Burgundian merce¬ naries, encamped here. In 1643 there was an affair at the same spot between the Parliamentary and the King’s forces, in which the latter were worsted. The High Constable of Furness wrote to the Parliament:— i2 Route i.— SwariniooF. 44 On lGfch of September there came an army into Furness, of 1500 men, Lord Molyneux, Sir George Middle- ton, and Sir John Girlington being chief commanders for the King. Our people thought to have kept them out, but they had three nights’ billet at Ulverstone, and took most part of our arms, and 500?., and plundered the place very sore. We (the Par¬ liamentarians), however, got together 1500 men, horse and foot, many of them out of Cumberland; 8 companies of foot, and 3 troops of horse, all fire¬ men, except about 20, who had pikes; they were all complete, and very stout fellows. They came to Ulverstone, and rested there that night; and early on 1st October, 1643, being Sunday, they set forward, and had prayers on Swartmoor, which being ended they marched forward until they came to Lyndal, and there the foot halted, and the horse went on to Lyndal Castle, and drew up in a valley, facing and shouting at Col. Huddle- stone’s horse, who were drawn up on the top of Lyndal Close, who shouted also in return; which lasted about an hour, while the foot was receiving powder, shot, and match ; which being ended, the foot marched up to the horse: then the King’s horse fled; whereupon they raised a great shout, and pursued them very hotly, taking Colonel Huddlestone and 300 soldiers prisoners, besides 6 colours, 2 drums, and much money and apparel.’’ The Ulverston district has been called the Peru of Furness. The iron-mines are chiefly in the vicinity of Lindal and Dalton. Hollingshed says that the Scots in the reign of Edward II., during one of their raids into England, 44 met with no iron worth their notice until they came to Furness in Lancashire, where they seized all they could find, and carried it off with the greatest joy; and, although so heavy of carriage, they preferred it to all other plunder.” The iron-ore (red haematite) is very rich, the best producing 1G or 17 cwt. of metal to the ton. The deposits are found in the carboni¬ ferous limestone, and vary in depth from 30 to GO yards. The Furness mines produce between 700,000 and 800,000 tons a year of pig-iron, representing nearly double that quan¬ tity of ore, although 30 years ago all the iron-ore raised could be exported in one small vessel. “ The mode in which that valuable ore of iron (haematite) was deposited in the pre-existing cavities of the carboni¬ ferous formation is matter of great geological interest; joints, fissures, and caverns were formed in the older rocks antecedent to the deposition of the Permian strata; aud in these the ore of iron, so widely diffused through¬ out the Permian rocks in a portion of the N.W. region, assumed the charac¬ ter of haematite. The earlier Permian rocks of both England and Scotland are strongly impregnated with iron, their composition consisting princi¬ pally of silica and an oxide of this metal. This inference concerning the Permian age of the haematite has also been arrived at by Professor Phillips .”—Sir II. Murchison , 4 Trans¬ actions R. G. Society, 1864.’ The deposits of 44 kidney ore ” in the Ulverston district are, however, of more recent origin, being found in the fissures and hollows of the lime¬ stone. They in some places mark the presence of great irregular 44 faults ; ” in others they have been precipitated in open water-worn caverns. In such cases the ore was probably introduced during the new red sandstone era, while the waters of the sea, saturated with red oxide of iron, flowed through the fissures and caverns of limestone, and filled them gradually up with the metallic matter held in partial solution. Large boulders of limestone are fre¬ quently found encased in the ore, together with clay and other sub¬ stances. The productiveness of these mines is a source of great prosperity to the neighbourhood. 13 Route 1.— Conishead Priory — UrswieJe. Conishead Priory, $ 2 m. S.E. of Ulverston, is approached by a road through the park. The mansion is entirely modern, designed by Wyatt, in a pseudo-Gothic style; it formerly belonged to the Braddyll family, but is now a hydropathic establishment. The drive through the park to Bard- sea presents some pleasing scenery. The grounds extend to the shores of Morecambe Bay. The mansion stands on the site of an ancient priory, from which it derives its name. The priory was founded in the reign of Henry II., by Gamel de Pennington, assisted by the first Baron of Kendal, William de Taillebois. It was first designed as an hospital for the poor of Ulverston, under the charge of the monks of the order of St. Augustine. Near the park, after passing the S. lodge of Conishead Priory, on the rt. of the road stands Bardsea Hall, sheltered by lofty woods. It was once a hunting-seat of the Molyneux family, and is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient hospital of Bard¬ sea, the oldest ecclesiastical establish¬ ment in Furness. It was for many years the seat of the Braddyll family, and afterwards of W. Gale, Esq. From the top of the wooded hill behind the hall the sylvan scenery of Conishead Park, and the wide expanse of Morecambe Bay, may be viewed to great advantage. 3 m. Bardsea. $ The village is situated on a hill which slopes gently down to the N. shore of Morecambe Bay. The Ch. is a modern erection, with a spire. The interior contains some handsome stained-glass win¬ dows. From the churchyard the whole of Morecambe Bay is seen, which at low tide presents a wide tract of sand. Lancaster is visible in the distance. From Bardsea a walk should be taken to the top of Birkrigg, 2 m., following the road which skirts the boundary wall of Bardsea Hall Park, until the common is reached. Proceed to the hamlet of Sunbrick, from thence return to Bardsea by Well-house (Mrs. Petty) From the top of Birkrigg the views are strikingly fine, including More- cambo Bay, the Irish Channel, the Isle of Man, the Yale of Ulverston, and many of the Westmorland and Cumbrian mountains. The “ Old Man ” mountain of Coniston is here a conspicuous object. There are some interesting antiquities on Birkrigg, viz., a circle of 10 stones, about 3 ft. high, overlooking Bardsea, and a camp or enclosure called Foula, between Sunbrick and Scales. 4 m. S. of Bardsea is Aldingham. The Ch. formerly belonged to the ancient manor of Muchland, i.e., land of Michael le Fleming, who granted the villages of Ros and Crimelton to Furness Abbey. Tradition will have it that, in consequence of the subsidence of this part of the coast, they have been submerged; but a statement of the boundaries and annual value of these parishes, pre¬ served in the ancient records of Fur¬ ness Abbey, shows this to be an error. The ch. is all that remains of the original village of Aldingham. A moat 1 m. from the ch. indicates the former site of a castle, or more prob¬ ably of a beacon or watch-tower, which commanded a wide prospect of the coast and bay, and communi¬ cated with another at Lancaster. Near this is a small circular mound, elevated some 20 ft., in the centre of which human bones were found. In Saxon times it may have been used for a “ gemote,” as there is a “ Mote Farm ” here. Urswick, 4 m. S. of Ulverston, is a village picturesquely situated in a valley close to a small tarn. Here are remains of a British encampment, containing an inner circle of lime¬ stone slabs (some of them nearly 4 ft. high), removed when the land was enclosed about 1847. Under a flat slab, 150 yards away, a spear-head 14 Route 1—Gleaston Castle — Dalton. was found; near it 4 or 5 celts of brass, and rings of the same number and material, large enough to admit the hand, and furnished with an exterior eye, apparently with a view to being carried on a string. The ch. is very ancient, dating from the Conquest. The old massive embattled tower has 2 niches, one of which contains a mutilated figure of the Mater Dolo¬ rosa, to whom the ch. was dedicated. Some of the windows are lancet- shaped, and ornamented with tracery work; others are plain and square¬ headed. There is an ancient piscina and some very old stained glass on the S. side of the chancel, some curious brasses, and a monumental stone of the 13th cent., with Longo- bardic characters. The massive key of the S. door (Early Norm.) is a remarkable specimen of mediaeval workmanship, and bears traces of having been gilt. Impressions of it have frequently been taken by archaeologists. The belfry contains a matins bell 450 years old. The E. and S. windows of the chancel (Decorated) were removed from the ch. about 30 years ago, and now stand in the garden at Hawkfield. Urs- wick Hall, now a farmhouse, was held by the Fell family for 19 gene¬ rations. Bolton Chapel is now a barn in a farm, about \ m. from Urswick. The Adgarley and Stain- ton iron mines employ most of the neighbouring population. Gleaston Castle, G m. S., is believed to have been built by the Harringtons, Lords of Aldingham, after the sea had swept away their original resi¬ dence. The supposed date of the castle is some time between 1293 and 1457. The interior was enclosed by a thick wall, forming a parallelogram 288 ft. long, 132 ft. broad at the S.W., and 170 ft. at the N. end, with towers at each angle. Two of these remain almost entire, but the one at the N. is much decayed, and the other at the E. is nearly undistin- guishable. Of the interior nothing remains. Gleaston was once the property of the Duke of Suffolk, father of Lady Jane Grey. It was roughly built of poor materials, but the ivy-mantled ruins are extremely picturesque. It is pleasantly situated in a valley, surrounded by well-culti¬ vated hills. The position of the castle shows that it was intended rather for a private residence than a fortress. A good trout-stream flows past the ruin.] Proceeding from Ulverston by rly. to Furness Abbey, the first stat. is 28 m. Lindal Stat., near which the encounter between the King’s and the Parliamentary forces took place in 1643. The iron-mines, with their tall chimneys, are conspicuous objects. 29^ m, Dalton Stat. $ (13,339); the ancient capital of Furness. Some have thought that the Roman road from Maryport to Lancaster passed through it, and it was a Roman stat. The Manor Court of the Abbots of Furness was held here, the civil business of the monastery having been transacted in the square tower near the market-place, which occu¬ pies the site of an older fortress. The lower storey now serves as a prison ; the upper has a 4-light window, with segmented arch and Dec. win¬ dows at the side. At the angle of the parapet is the figure of a knight in the costume of Edw. III. The town is now only remarkable as the centre of the iron district. It was the birthplace of Romney the painter, whose grave in the churchyard is marked by a plain stone, with the words “ Pictor celeberrimus.” His father was a cabinet-maker here. Dalton w r as almost depopulated by the plague in 1631. The mines in the vicinity give employment to a large population. The miners are said to be extremely provident, living for the most part in their ow r n houses, and having a co-operative association Boule 1 .—Furness Abbey. with a capital of 33,000Z. The ch. has an ancient tower and a 14th cent, stone font. It was pulled down in 1883, and a new one, by Messrs. Paley and Austin, was built. In 1879, an ancient building, about 18 ft. by 10 ft., was discovered on the Park Farm. Oak beams had been used as a foundation and a stockade formed outside. Water was laid on by a leaden pipe from a spring some 300 yds. distant. Two bronze keys of the 14th cent, were dug up. Ac¬ cording to Close the remains of a Roman road were found in 1803 close by. ' 31. m. FURNESS ABBEY Junct. $ Frequent trains to Barrow, 2 m.; G daily to Ulverston ; 3 to White¬ haven, by the Whitehaven and Furness Ely.; 3 to Coniston, 19 m. Change carriages at the Foxfield Junction, 9 m. Furness Abbey. The remains of this fine example of the ecclesiastical architecture of the middle ages are most interesting. The style of the abbey was E. Eng., but, as additions were made to it as its wealth in-' creased, the architecture gradually assumed a mixed character, known as the Trans, style. The entrance was through 2 low Gothic arches. On the 1. is a small building, formerly used either as a porter’s lodge or an almonry. The abbey originated in a colony of monks from Savigny in Normandy, who at first settled at Preston, and afterwards migrated to this spot, then called Beckansgill. In a poem composed by one of the monks “ the deadly nightshade ” is said to have been changed into a harmless plant, doubtless by the sanctity im¬ parted to the ground by the abbey and its inmates: “ Hascvallis tenuit olim sibi nomen abherba Bekan, qua viruit dulcis nunc, tunc sed acerba; Unde domus nomen Bekangill claruit ante, Jam patrije tant;e nomen partitur et omen." 15 No support, however, has been found for the existence of such a word. The monks were invited by Ste¬ phen Earl of Boulogne and Mor¬ ton, afterwards King of England, to settle here and to build an abbey under his protection (1127). The sculptured heads of Stephen and his queen Maud are still seen, one on each side of the remains of the great E. window. In addition to the immense sum which must have been expended in the construction of so magnificent an edifice, Stephen endowed the convent, not only with the lands lying contiguous to it, but with large estates in Lancashire, Yorkshire, and Cumberland, including the whole of Borrowdale, besides pro¬ perty in the Isle of Man and in Ireland.! The annual revenue of the monastery at the time of its dissolution in 1537 was 900Z., equivalent to 9000Z. at the present day. The abbey of Furness was a mother in¬ stitution, having under it Calder Abbey in Cumberland, Rushin Abbey in the Isle of Man, Fermor Abbey in Ireland, and six other monasteries, and it disputed with the Abbey of Fountains in Yorkshire the claim of being the first or parent Cistercian abbey in England. The vast pro¬ perty and extraordinary privileges conferred upon it by King Stephen were ratified by 12 succeeding kings. The surrounding estates of the abbey included the whole of the promontory on which it is situated ; and to the N., as far as the division of the counties of Westmorland, Cumberland, and Lan¬ cashire at the top of Wrynose, and the space between Windermere on the E. and the river Duddon on the W.—a district as large as the Isle of Man. It possessed also in its tenantry a military force numbering 1200 men, of whom 400 were horsemen, available against the inroads of the Scots in the f In bis grant occurs mention of “ Fuder- nesia,” which seems to point to an etymo¬ logical connection between Furness and the old n 'me of P«.el Island—Fouldry. 16 Route 1 .—Furness Abbey. Border wars. A body of these troops, commanded by Sir Edward Stanley, was present at the battle of Flodden Field, and they are thus referred to in the ancient ballad—■ “ From Bow land billmen bold were brun, With such as Bottom Banks did hide, From Wliaremore up to Whittington, And all to Wenning water-side; From Silverdale to Kent sand-side ; Whose soil is sown with cockle-shells ; From Cartmel also and Arnside, With fellows fierce from Furness Fells.” The society appointed its own sheriff, coroner, constables, and other civil officers. It held separate courts, and possessed the patronage of every church in the district but one. It was exempt from taxation, and levied fines according to its discretion. It possessed a criminal jurisdiction in¬ dependent of the king. Special pri¬ vileges were conferred upon it by 2 popes, and great wealth was showered upon it from time to time by opulent individuals. It main¬ tained a hospitium for strangers, schools for the education of the tenants’ children, and pensioned a numerous body of poor dependents. The strict rules of the order were gradually relaxed at Furness as in the other Cistercian monasteries, of which there were not less than 85 in England 50 years after the introduc¬ tion of the order. Furness Abbey became notorious for the relaxation of its discipline and its luxury. The society possessed ships of considerable burden, with which it traded to foreign countries ; and the iron-mines in Furness, although they do not appear to have been very extensively worked, supplied it with a valuable commodity for exchange. In the reign of Edw. I. the revenue of the abbey was estimated at a sum equiva¬ lent to 18,000L of our present money. There were 33 monks at the time of the dissolution, and 100 other inmates, including servants. The present hotel was the abbot’s house. The abbey and its extensive range of offices were built of the red sandstone of the district, the softness of which did not admit of that minute and elaborate orna¬ mentation which distinguishes many of the other abbeys of England. The masonry work, however, was so good that portions of the walls still re¬ main as firm as if they had been just built. The boundary-wall enclosed an area of 65 acres, in which were bakeries, malt-kilns, breweries, gran¬ aries, gardens, fish-ponds, and all the other appurtenances of a rich and luxurious conventual establishment. There was a beacon-tower on the hill above the abbey, which, on an alarm of invasion, flashed its fires across the bay of Morecambe to the garrison of Lancaster. On the N. is the large transept- window, its arch still perfect, but overgrown with ivy; below is the principal door, a beautiful specimen of Trans, work. There are indications of 2 lancets having occupied the place of the present Perp. window. On the E. of the N. transept are 3 chapels, entered through pointed arches springing from clustered pillars. There are remains of several tombs of the abbots and of distinguished per¬ sons who were buried there. There are two other chapels, and the sacristy (the walls of the latter being now only a few feet high), attached to the S. transept. The ch. is 294 ft. from E. to W. The great tower rose from the centre of the transept (which is 129 ft. long and 28 ft. wide), and was supported on 4 arches; 3 of the pillars remain, and the E. arch is perfect. The arch of the great E. window is broken. Be¬ low the great E. window stood the high-altar; the beautiful sedilia re¬ main ; they are supposed to have been richly gilt, and, with the coloured capitals of the choir and nave, the interior must have pre¬ sented a very gorgeous appearance. On the ground within the choir are many monumental slabs, some bear¬ ing the arms of the first Barons of Kendal. There are effigies of 3 mailed Route 1 .—Furness Abbey. 17 cross-legged warriors of the age of Henry III. or Edward I. Upon the heads of 2 are cylindrical flat-topped helmets, with horizontal slits in the visors—very curious. The knights lie on their right sides, the left cov¬ ered with the shield, which doubtless once told the story. There is also a draped female figure well-executed. Ranged in some order are several very perfect tombs of ecclesiastics, marked by crosses. At the W. end are the remains of a lofty tower, the walls of which are supported on 3 sides by staged but¬ tresses, projecting nearly 10 ft. from the walls. It was probably built about the beginning of the 15th cent. The W. window (35 ft. high by 11 ft. 6 in.) is ornamented by a series of flowers and grotesque heads in the hollow of the jambs. The Chapter-house is to the S. of the chancel, and was divided from it by a vestry and side-chapels. It must have been a very elegant build¬ ing, and. even in its decay, furnishes exquisite subjects for the pencil. It measures GO ft. by 45 ft. Its groined and fretted roof fell in some time in the last centy. The remains of the pillars which supported the 12 ribbed arches show the extreme beauty and simplicity of the design. A pillar has been judiciously reconstructed out of the fragments, and stands in its original upright position, with its elegant shaft and capital, giving some idea of what the room must have been when perfect. Above the Chapter-house were the library and scriptorium; beyond was the re¬ fectory, with rooms connected with it—one the locutorium, where the monks retired after dinner for con¬ versation, and another the calefac- torium, also the lavatorium, which opened upon the garden. The kit¬ chen and other offices communicated with these apartments. Outside the S. boundary-wall is a building sup¬ posed to have been either a school- [English Lakes.'] house or the hospitium. The W. end of the ch. was intended to bear a lofty belfry, but it was never erected, the soft stone, probably, not being able to bear the weight. This portion or the abbey is the most recent. In the hotel may be seen some good bas-reliefs, formerly ornaments of the abbey. In the coffee-room is a sculpture of Adam and Eve, and in the upper rooms are Mary Magda¬ lene anointing our Lord's feet, the Woman with the Issue of Blood, John the Baptist, and St. John. The great hall of the monastery was in the Early Dec. style, but is now a mere ruin. There are no remains of cloisters, but 3 very richly-moulded deep Norm, porches face the spot where they formerly stood. The abbey possessed great power, and was supreme throughout Furness. The whole pop. was in a state of vassal- age to the house; the mesne lords, on receiving the summons of the abbot, provided their respective con¬ tingents for the service of the con¬ vent, and every tenant was bound to furnish a man and a horse fully equipped for the Border wars, and for the protection of the coast. For a period of 400 years the abbots succeeded peaceably in their rule over this grand convent and its princely domains, receiving constant accessions of wealth. The abbey was formally surrendered to Henry VIII. by its last abbot, Roger Pyle. From that period it went gradually to de¬ cay, and much of its ornamental stonework and materials were carried away to decorate or build parish churches. The rooks and daws have had uninterrupted possession of its ivied tower for 3 centuries. The ruin is the property of the Duke of Devonshire, who has taken judicious measures for its preservation. Those who may be curious to know the con¬ dition of the society at the period of its dissolution are. referred to Beck’s ‘Annales Furnesienses.’ The best c 18 Route 1.— Barrow, view of it is from a hill to the E. of the abbey, the spot where the beacon- tower formerly stood. Wordsworth has left, in one of his sonnets, a record .of the impression which he received from the ruin :— “ Here, where, of havoc tired and rash un¬ doing, Man left this structure to become Time’s prey, A soothing spirit follows in the way That Nature takes, her counter-work pur¬ suing. See how her ivy clasps the sacred ruin, Fall to prevent or beautify decay; And on the mouldering walls how r bright, how gay, The flowers in pearly dew their bloom re¬ newing.” 34 m. BARROW Stat.$ [Rail to Peel (4 m.), where is a steamboat pier]. A branch Rly. from Barrow to the extremity of the peninsula opposite (4 m.) has been carried by an embankment to Roe Island, where there is a long pier. Steamers ply daily from it to Belfast, Fleetwood, Douglas. Ferry boats ply daily between Bar- row and the ancient village of N. Scale, where there is a good Hotel. The town and the neighbouring island of Walney, and Peel Castle, can be reached in a few minutes from Furness Abbey. Barrow Island, which is separated from the town by a narrow channel, is said to have been a favourite burial-place of the North¬ men, who desired their 44 barrows ” should be on high and unenclosed spots, that they might be seen by travellers by sea and on land. The island, which is small, has been long under cultivation, so that no traces remain of the graves from which it probably derived its name. Barrow is the port from which the iron-ore of Furness is shipped. In the early part of the present centy. there was only 1 house on the peninsula on which Barrow now stands. A poor fishing village then sprang up, and increased rapidly to a considerable town, which was incorporated in 1867. There are few instances of so sudden a creation of a place of com¬ mercial importance. In 1847 the Pop. of Barrow was 325; in 18G4 it amounted to 10,068; in 1871 to 18,911 ; and in 1881 to 47,111. The great development of the Furness iron-mines has caused this rapid pro¬ gress. These mines are only excelled in extent and importance by the famous works at Essen in Germany, and Creuzot in France. In 1847 the rly. was first opened, and in that year it conveyed to the port 103,768 tons of iron-ore. In 1863 the quantity conveyed for shipment was 621,525 tons. The Barrow Haematite Steel Company’s Works, 1 m. from the town, are well worth a visit; 8 large furnaces are in constant blast, and are capable of turning out from 2000 to 3000 tons of metal per week. A model of the works was shown at the International Exhibition of 1862, The establishment comprises all the latest improvements in the art of smelting. The gas generated in the furnaces is utilised, both for light and heat, by being carried off in pipes to other portions of the works. 5000 tons of pig iron are produced weekly. The emptying of the large retorts holding five tons of metal is a remark¬ able sight. The metal when poured into the moulds is so 44 lively ” that it must be covered up and weighted while at a white heat, otherwise, like quicksilver, it would rise up and overflow the moulds. In a portion of the factory where the metal is con¬ verted into steel by the Bessemer pro¬ cess, may be seen the formation of the steel into fabrics of different kinds. Steel rails, tires for wheels, &c., grow into shape with incon¬ ceivable rapidity. In illustration at once of the excellent quality of the steel here manufactured, and of the strength of the machinery, it may be mentioned that steel rails have actually been bent and twisted into a knot without exhibiting, when closely examined, any strain or flaw in the fibre. In consequence of the high ID Houle 1 .—Barrow : Bodes; Islands . percentage of the Furness haematite ore, its easy fusibility, intense heat¬ ing property, and great strength, it is peculiarly adapted for conversion into steel. The steel works at Barrow, when in full operation, can convert weekly about 1000 tons of pig iron into Bessemer steel, worth from 12 1. to 14 1. per ton. Yards for ship¬ building, ropewalks, and brickworks, give employment to large numbers of people at Barrow. The town possesses 2 clubs, Liberal and Conservative, a Working-man’s and a Mechanic’s Institute, a public library and read¬ ing-room, The ch. of St. George, in the Dec. style, is a handsome build¬ ing, and vrell placed. In September, 1878, four churches were consecrated at Barrow in one day, an event which has occurred in no other town. In the centre of the principal thoroughfare, Duke St., is a statue of Sir James Ramsden, to whom the town owes much of its prosperity. He resides at Abbotswood, on the hillside, op¬ posite Furness Abbey. The Docks. —The channel dividing Barrow Island from the mainland has been converted, by enclosing it from the open sea at both ends, into ex¬ tensive floating docks. Of these docks, next to their size—in which respect they stand unrivalled on this line of coast, with the exception of those at Birkenhead—the great merit consists in the economy of their con¬ struction. Although their total cost will be about 300,000h, it is alleged that no such docks iu the kingdom will have been completed for so small a sum. The mode in which the site was turned to account is in the high¬ est degree ingenious. Of the nu¬ merous islands on the S. side of the peninsula, the nearest, Barrow Island, was separated from the town by a narrow channel. The railway company, however, encroaching more and more upon the sea, reduced the distance between the island and the mainland until there was only a tide¬ way some few hundred yards in width left. This tide-way the engineers conceived the design of converting into floating docks, so that the island and the mainland should in future be one, with the space between no longer a free channel for the sea, but a basin in which vessels might float at all times of the tide. The southern face of Barrow Island has been ap¬ propriated for shipbuilding yards. Several 4000-ton steamers have been built here. The outer island, Walney, 10 miles in length, serves as a natural breakwater to Barrow, and it is esti¬ mated that around and in different parts of Barrow Island, which the railway company has purchased, there are 10 miles of railway sidings. The docks are adapted for vessels of all sizes, the depth of water maintained being 22 ft. The stone quays are a mile and a half in length; the area of the Devonshire dock is 30 acres, of the Buccleugh dock 33 acres, of the timber-pond 35| acres, and of the Ramsden dock 200 acres. There are also rly. rolling-stock works, foun¬ dries, ropeworks, steam corn-mills, flax and jute mills, all on a most extensive scale. The principal neighbouring islands are Old Barrow , Walney, Foulney , Pile of Fouldry or Peel Island , Poe Island , Dova Howe, and Ramsey. Walney is about 10 m. long, and 1 m. broad. Biggar Bank, part of this island, has been acquired by the cor¬ poration as a recreation-ground for the inhabitants. The island possesses a rich soil, and produces good grain-crops. The abbots of Furness erected dikes to prevent the irruption of the sea at high tides and in gales of wind ; but, after the dissolution of the monastery, these precautions were neglected, and the sea has several times since flowed over the island, doing immense dam¬ age. Inundations occurred in 1771, 1796, and in 1821; in the latter year the sea broke down part of the dike, and flooded many acres. Large flocks of sea-fowl haunt the island, among o 2 Route 2 .—Ulverston to Whitehaven. 20 whlchTadornci vulpanser, Charcidrius liyaticula (the ring plover), Haema- topus ostralegus (oyster-catcher); Larus marinus (black-backed gull), &c., may be observed. At the S.E. end there is a lighthouse, 68 feet high, erected in 1799. On the beach of Roe Island may he seen large boulders of granite, which were trans¬ ported during the glacial period from Shap Fells. Peel Island can he reached in a few minutes by a boat from Peel pier. The Castle was built by the monks of Furness, mainly in the reign of Edward II. or III., though begun in that of Stephen, for the protection of the harbour, and as a place of retreat for the people of the neighbourhood during hostile incur¬ sions from the Border, and it was re¬ built and strengthened about the middle of the 14th century. It was called the Pile of Foudry, from which it is evident that the island formerly bore the name of Foudry, or the Flame Island, from foudra, Norse for flame, and ey, an island. It is possible, therefore, that there w r as an older for¬ tress, on the site of which the castle was built, and that it was originally an advanced beacon, intended to com¬ municate with the watch-towers of Furness. The castle is well described in a paper read by Maj. W. Harrison before the Barrow Field Club. The keep consisted of 3 storeys, and was protected by a double moat, walls, and flanking towers. Over the gate¬ way to the inner court is a curious carving, representing a contorted female figure, carrying a human head. It is thought to be Salome dancing before Herod. On the N. side of the inner wall are the ruins of the chapel. A considerable portion of the walls of the castle has been de¬ stroyed by the inroads of the sea, and their fragments are scattered along the shore; but judicious restoration by the Duke of Buccleugh has now arrested the progress of decay. The castle has been a place of somd strength and importance* The but¬ tresses and the mullions of the win¬ dows are of red sandstone, but the mass of the building was constructed apparently of the boulders collected from the beach, rudely but strongly cemented together. On the E. and S. sides the sea now covers a large extent of ruins, which are visible under water. On the N. and W. sides the 2 moats, the double lines of wall, and the strong flanking towers give a good idea of the original strength and solidity of this ancient fortress. Here in the reign of Hen. VII., the Earl of Lincoln and Lord Lovel, with 2000 German soldiers under Martin Swart, and a number of Irish under Lord Geraldine, landed to support the pretensions of Lam¬ bert Simnel, the self-styled Earl of Warwick. Wordsworth’s poem on a picture of this castle in a storm is well known. KOUTE 2. ULVERSTON TO WHITEHAVEN, BY KIRKBY - IRELETH, BROUGHTON, HOLBORN HILL, RAVENGLASS, AND ST. BEES —WHITEHAVEN AND FUB- NESS ELY. 55 111. For route as far as Furness Abbey, see Rte. 1. The line after leaving Furness Abbey skirts the E. shore of the Duddon estuary nearly to Broughton. 37£ m. Kirby-Ireleth Stat. On the rt. are the extensive slate-quarries belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, in which several hundred workmen are employed. They produce some of the best roofing slates in the 21 Route 2.— Foxfield—Holborn Hill. kingdom, which are largely exported from Barrow. The; debris which cover the side of the hill have the appearance of military earthworks. .The men employed in the quarries have to he let down by ropes for the purpose of boring previous to blasting the slate. Some of the slates take a good polish, and exhibit fossils, 40^ m, Foxfield Junct. Here is the junction for Broughton and Coniston. SGe Rte. 4. 42 m. Greenroad Stat. The Duddon is crossed by an embank¬ ment. 44 \ m. Holborn Hill Stat. (so called, probably from Halbiorn, a Norse chief). The Pop. of Millom lias increased from 3500 in 1871 to G228 in 1881. Millom Castle may be visited from Holborn by a walk over the fields ; it is ^ m. from the village. The castle was embattled in 1335 by Sir John Hudcllestone. Sir Richard, his great-grandson, fought at Agin- court, and his descendant, Sir Ferdi- nando, had nine sons in the army of Charles I. It was once surrounded by a fine park, which has been con¬ verted into arable and pasture land. A large mere, drained about 3 cen¬ turies ago, must have greatly strengthened the defences of the house. Lysons, who wrote 2 centuries ago, says, “ The castle here, although an old and ruinous building, is made still the mansion of the present lord, who pleases himself more in his goodly demesnes, stately park, aud plenty of timber and deer, and the great commodities which both sea and land afford him, than others do in their new-modelled dwellings and fine gardens, which embitter their pleasure by their charge.” The great square tower is occupied as a farmhouse, and its battlements have been taken down. The moat is still traceable. The castle was not of great extent; a considerable portion of it is roofless, and the massive walls are clothed with luxuriant ivy. A flight of steps leads up to the keep. Above the archway a stone shield bears the now almost effaced arms of Huddlcstone, which may be seen in better preservation on a slab built into the wall of the barn. There is a fine old carved staircase in the great tower, which is nearly 50 ft. square, and was probably built in the last half of the 16th centy. The lords of Millom were invested with extraordinary privileges, and possessed “jura re¬ galia ” in six parishes. The gallows stood on a hill | m. from the castle, and were used as late as the middle of the 16th centy. A stone post which stands within a few yards of the rly. on the rt. from Broughton, and b m. from Holborn Station, marks this spot, still called Gallows Bank. The stone bears the inscrip¬ tion — “ On this spot the lords of Millom exercised jura regalia within their seigniory.” De Boyville, lord of Millom in the reign of Henry I., gave all the parishes between the Esk and Millom to the abbey of St. Mary at York, and the churches of Bootle and Whicham, and the land called Monk Force, to the abbey of Furness, “ reserving only the harts and hinds, wild boars, and their kinds, and all the aeries of hawks thereon.” The lordship passed by marriage (temp. Hen. III.) to the Huddlestones, and it continued in that family till bought by Sir James Lowther in 1774. The castle was invested by the Parliamentary forces in 1648. Much of the timber of the park was cut down in the year 1690 by one of the IJuddlestone family for smelting iron-ore and building a ship of large burden ; both proved unsuccessful speculations, and the demesne was needlessly despoiled of its greatest ornaments. The place was disparked by the Earl of Lonsdale in 1802, when 207 head of deer were killed, and venison 22 Route 2.— Silecroft—Black Combe. was sold at Diversion market for from 2d. to 4 d. per pound. The Church is curious and interest¬ ing. The E. door is Early Norm., the pillars are alternately octagon and round, and have been fresh chiselled, a thick coating of plaster having been first removed. In the N. aisle is a curious window, unique of its kind, with 5 lights, called the fish-window, from its fish-like shape. The other windows are in the Dec. style, and more modern than the rest of the ch. Near the E. window is an oct¬ agonal stone font ornamented with quatrefoils, and with a shield bearing the arms of Huddlestone. The ch. also contains a tablet to the memory of Sir Johu Huddlestone (1GS2). and a fine altar-tomb with elaborate Gothic tracery, the figures being a Sir J. Huddlestone and his lady, both, how¬ ever, in a very mutilated condition. By its side is another altar-tomb with a much decayed wooden effigy, said to be that of a servant or follower of Sir J. Huddlestone, who saved his masters life in battle. The very rich haematite iron-mines, belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, situated a short distance from the Holborn Hill Stat., are worth a visit. The ore is trans¬ ported in large quantities by rly. to the south, as well as by shipping to Wales. The neighbourhood of Silecroft is extremely rich in prehistoric remains. Three stone circles and a cairn in the direction of Bootle have been destroyed, and about forty years ago the impor¬ tant group of stones called Old Kirk was grievously mutilated. It is now a heap of ruins, 50 yds. by 25 yds.; several stumps remain of the pillars which surrounded it, but have been carried off to serve as gateposts ! Out¬ side are the remains of a dike enclos¬ ing it, and also of 3 successive ter¬ races. Near it are 2 stone circles, precisely alike in size and shape, ajid having each a pair of stones forming a kind of entrance on the E. side. All these stand high, at about 500 ft. above the sea ; but | m. to the W., near the rly. and the shore, stands a pair of huge unhewn stones, called the Giant's Grave. They are 15 ft. apart, and the larger, which is 10 ft. high, bears a “ cupmark,” about 3 in. in diameter. In 1824 a British battle-axe, 13§ in. long, was dug up near the upper circle. Not far off, and nearer Millom Castle, a Roman urn has since been found, and is now at Broadgate. In 1862 a stone hammer was found close to Silecroft, and a stone celt near the shore in 1868. 474 m. Silecroft Stat., $ a small vil¬ lage, from which Black Combe may be easily ascended. Black Combe rises in a succession of ridges almost from the margin of the sea to an elevation of 1969 ft. The summit is 4 m. from the shore. Black Combe,— “ From blackness named, And to far-travelled storms of sea and land A favourite spot of Tournament and War,”— does not possess the grand features of many of the Cumberland mountains, but the views from it are almost un¬ surpassed. The whole of the Furness peninsula, the islands to the S., the wide sweep of Morecambe Bay and the coast beyond, the towns of Ravenglass, Egremont, and St. Bees ; to the N. the vale of Duddon, and the Cumberland mountains,—form a panorama of great beauty and in¬ terest. Colonel Mudge, the Ordnance Surveyor, saw Ireland more than once from the top of Black Combe when the sun was below the horizon, and Snowdon is to be seen not un¬ frequent ly. “Close by the sea, lone sentinel. Black Combe his forward station keeps; lie breaks the sea’s tremendous swell, And ponders o’er the level deeps. He listens to the bugle-horn Where Eskdale’s lovely valley bends, Eyes Walney’s early fields of corn, Sea-birds to Holker’s woods he sends,” 23 Route 2.— Bootle— The following is Wordsworth’s description of the view from Black Combe;— “ Here the amplest range Of unobstructed prospect may be seen Which British ground commands; low dusky track Where Trent is nursed far southward, Cam¬ brian Hills To the south-west, a multitudinous show; And in a line of eyesight linked with these, The hoary peaks of Scotland that give birth To Teviot’s stream, to Annan, Tweed, and Clyde. Crowding the quarter whence the sun comes forth, Gigantic mountains, rough with crags; be¬ neath, ICght at the imperial station’s western base, Main ocean breaking audibly, and stretched Far into silent regions blue and pale, And visibly engirding Mona’s Isle.” On the E. side of the mountain is a craggy amphitheatre, which some geologists have thought to be the crater of an extinct volcano, from a curious cone-shaped mound which rises in the centre of the hollow. Some of the rocks have the appear¬ ance of vitrification, but there is no reason to suppose that any active volcano has ever existed here. The lower side or edge of the basin is broken off, and an extensive por¬ phyry dike runs down into the vale on the S. “ The whole region of Black Combe belongs to the oldest slate formation, and has, at some remote period, been extruded from the bowels of the earth, and elevated into a position out of all symmetry with the structure of the neighbour¬ ing region.”— Sedgivich. The mass of the mountain is com¬ posed of Skiddaw slate, much con¬ torted, and, in some places, metamor¬ phosed by igneous action, as is shown in the protrusion of the porphyry dike before referred to. There is a remarkable stone circle at Swinside, on the descent from Black Combe to Broughton. After leaving Silecroft the rly. passes rt., Whitbeck Ch. In the -Muncaster Castle, churchyard is a fine female figure, much worn, of about 1300 a.d., and without doubt representing one of the Huddlestone family. A pewter flagon is preserved in the church. 53 m. Bootle Stat., a vill. situated on the bank of a small stream, If m. from the sea-shore, amidst pictur¬ esque and diversified scenery. Bootle Fell rises directly above it; and Black Combe on the S.E. 53 m. Eskmeals Stat. 57iin.RavenglassStat.$ [Branch to Boot in Eskdale (7f m.), see Rte. 3], a decayed seaport on the banks of the estuary formed by the confluence of the rivers Irt, Mite, and Esk. The name is supposed to be pure Celtic, “ Yr Avon glas,” from its situation on the grey river. It is a bar harbour, and is now almost deserted, but was a place of some importance when the great Border fortresses, abbeys, and priories of the district supported a considerable trade, for the carrying on of which this port was well situ¬ ated. There is a valuable salmon fishery. [Muncaster Castle (Lord Mun¬ caster), m. from the Stat., is the seat of the ancient family of the Penningtons. The castle is finely situated on a commanding height amidst fine woods, and commands views of great beauty over the whole of Eskdale. The park is extensive. The mansion is principally modern, the principal tower of the ancient castle only remaining. The whole underwent extensive repairs and alterations in 1865. The interior is not shown during the residence of the family ; but the grounds may be seen at any time on application at the lodge. The terrace commands perhaps the finest view in Cumber¬ land. The castle contains some good oak carvings, sculptured marble chim¬ ney-pieces, and pictures. Henry YI. 24 Route 2.— Drigg—Moor Row. was entertained here on his flight after the battle of Hexham, 14G3. He was accidentally met by some shepherds in Eskdale, and conduct¬ ed by them to Muncaster Castle. When the king left Muncaster he presented to Sir John Pennington an enamelled glass vase, called “ the Luck of Muncaster.” The glass is carefully preserved in the castle, and, according to tradition, the family would never want a male heir while it remained unbroken. It is engraved in the Art Journal for Dec. 1879. The Penningtons took their name from the village of Penn¬ ington, in Furness, where they resided until 1242. The castle con¬ tains some interesting historical pic¬ tures, viz.: Caxton presenting the First Book printed in England to Edward IV.; Sir John Pennington, Lord High Admiral of England, 1GI2 ; and portraits of several other members of the Pennington family. The Church in the park is a pic¬ turesque object, with its ivy-mantled walls. On the apex of the gable at the E. end of the nave is a small turret which is supposed to have contained the “ mass bell,” which was rung on the elevation of the Host, when the parishioners who were unable to attend mass, on hearing it, fell on their knees. The walls are covered with monuments of the Pennington family. One erected to Sir John Pennington, Lord High Admiral, 1G1G, bears the following testimony to his loyalty: “ The Parliament strongly invited him to enter into their service ; but he never could be prevailed upon to serve against the king.” On the S. side of the churchyard there is an ancient cross.] 59J m. Drigg Stat. $ The rly. fol¬ lows the line of coast. On the rt. the views of the mountains about Wast- water are very fine. The lake is 7 m. from Drigg, and may be con¬ veniently visited from this stat. Cars can be hired for the excursion. G1J m. Seascale Stat. $ The dis¬ tance from Wast water is about 1 m. more than from Drigg. Conveyances can be hired. In the season a coach leaves for Wasdale Head 2 or 3 times a week in connection with the morning train from Whitehaven, re¬ turning in the afternoon. The place is of recent creation, and possesses a few small lodging-houses ; but there is nothing very inviting about it, unless it be its proximity to the sea, and to some of the finest scenery in the Lake district. G34 m. Sellafield Stat. [A branch line leads from here to Moor Row Junct. 2 m. Beckermet Stat., 2| m. from Calder Abbey; but tourists coming from the S. will find Sellafield, though slightly farther off, a better starting- point. In Beckermet church there are some very curious fragments of ancient carved stones, and in a pool about 1 m. W. the remains were discovered of an ancient lake dwell¬ ing, with some stone celts in tho immediate neighbourhood. 5 m. Egremont Stat. $ (Rte. 22.) G m. Woodend Stat. 7 m. Moor Row Junct. Here are 3 diverging lines ; one W. to White¬ haven in l hr.; one N. to Workington in 32 mins.; and one which passing Frizington Stat. (4 m. from foot of Ennerdale Water), and Ullock Stat. (3 m. from Lowes Water), effects in 50 mins., at Marron, a junction with the Penrith and Cockermouth Rly.] The rly. is carried close to the sea, and the river Eden is frequently crossed and recrossed. This stream, which issues from Ennerdale Lake, runs for some miles parallel with, and very close to the shore, and is separated from the sea only by a narrow bank of sand or shingle. Route 2,— St. Bees. 25 Col m. Braystones Stat, G7 m. Nether town Stat. G9^ m. St. Bees Stat.$ The coast is well worthy of being explored, the cliffs being very fine and composed of masses of red sandstone, disposed in horizontal layers of enormous thick¬ ness, intersected at irregular intervals by strata of light-coloured sandstone. Vast blocks, squared and piled up as if by art, resemble in many places the buttresses of a castle. The stone is rather soft, but hardens on exposure to the air. Many vertical fissures occur, into which the sea rushes at high water, un¬ dermining the cliffs above; masses of sandstone are therefore constantly falling on the beach. The sea is said to have formerly flowed inland be¬ tween St. Bees and Whitehaven, of which there are some traces, the soil at a slight depth being intermixed with sand and shells. There is a tradition of an anchor having been dug up in a field at a considerable distance from the sea-shore.—(For a geological notice of the coast see Introduction, p. xiv.) At St. Bees Head, and on other parts of the shore, the botanist will find Veronica anagallis, Lycopsis arvensis, Crithmum maritinmm, Brassica monensis, and Geranium sanguineum. The town is built chiefly on the ridge of a long narrow valley. A chantry was established here a.d. G50, by Bega, an Irish female saint, from whom the town derives its name:—• “When Bega sought of yore the Cumbrian coast, Tempestuous winds her holy errand crossed; She knelt in prayer, the waves their wrath appease, And from her vow,well-weighed in Heaven’s decrees, Rose where she touched the strand the Chantry of St. Bees." Of the origin of the convent and its endowment there is the following legend The ship containing St. Bega, and several of her sisters, was driven by a tempest on the coast of White¬ haven and wrecked. The Lady of Egremont Castle, pitying their mis¬ fortune, desired her lord to give them a place to dwell in, which ho accordingly did, and they “ sewed, spun, and wrought carpets, and did other work, and lived such godly lives as got them much love.” The Abbess then desired the Lady of Egremont to ask her lord to build them a goodly house; where¬ upon the Lady Egremont spoko to her lord, telling him that he had land enough, and ought to give some of it to the Abbess and her sisters, that he might lay up for himself treasure in heaven. But the Lord of Egremont only laughed, and said that he would give them just as much land as snow should fall upon in the following morning, being Midsummer-day. On the morrow, when the Lord and Lady of Egre¬ mont looked out of their chamber- window, the ground was white with snow from Egremont to the sea,— a miraculous event brought to pass, according to the legend, by the prayers of the saint; whereupon the Abbey of St. Bees was built and en¬ dowed with all the land upon which the snow had fallen, including the site of the present town of White¬ haven. In the reign of Henry I. William de Meschines restored the religious house of St. Bees, which had been dissolved, and established a Bene¬ dictine Priory, related to St. Mary’s Abbey, York. At St. Bees there are many highly curious specimens of early carving in stone. Most of the details have been beautifully and accurately sketched by Canon Knowles, who has thus saved these rare designs from the chances of destruction or decay, and 26 Route 2 .— St. Bees—Whitehaven set an example which ought to he widely followed. The Collegiate Ch. consists of a nave, with aisles, a choir, and tran¬ septs, with a low square tower at the intersection. The W. front of the nave has three lancet windows and a fine Norm, doorway. The nave has G pointed arches on each side, the pillars alternately hexagonal and circular, excepting one which is clustered. The nave is now used as a parish ch. The N. transept has been converted into a library. At the E. end of the choir are 3 beautiful lancet windows, the centre higher and wider than the others, and between each are 2 tiers of niches, one above the other, with clustered shafts and ornamented capitals. The N. side of the choir is lighted by lancet windows, the interior shafts being plain, and the exterior filleted. The modern college for the educa¬ tion of candidates for holy orders was established in 1817 by Dr. Law, Bishop of Carlisle, and it has been liberally supported by the Earls of Lonsdale. The choir of the priory ch., which had been roofless for 2 centuries, was repaired and appro¬ priated to the use of the college. The students are required to be well instructed in the classics before ad¬ mission. The Sea Cote Hotel was built by the Earl of Lonsdale for the accom¬ modation of visitors, and is much fre¬ quented for sea-bathing. Board and lodging at 2 guineas per week. The bay is well sheltered. The promon¬ tory of St. Bees Head, and its light¬ house, are within an easy walk, and the cliff scenery and fine expanse of sea make it a pleasant excursion. At low water the beach may be followed from St. Bees to the head¬ land. “ No one plucks tlie rose Whose proffered beauty in safe shelter blows ’Mid a trim garden’s summer luxuries, With joy like his who climbs on hands and knees, For some rare plant, the headland of St. Bees.”— Wordsworth. Such researches are, however, some¬ what hazardous. In March, 1885, Mr. Arthur MacHutchin, a student at the college, was killed by a fall from these cliffs, which he was endeavouring to climb, at Lawson's Loup, about 1 m. S. of Fleswick. The shore abounds in sea anemones, starfish, &c., and is as interesting to the naturalist as any part of the coast of Devon. Near the Lighthouse, which forms the commencement of Solway-Firth, is a beautiful little bay called Fles¬ wick, which lies at the base of lofty cliffs, and is much resorted to in summer for picnics. 74 m. Whitehaven Stat.$ A flour¬ ishing seaport. Pop. in 1881,19,295 ; in 1831 it amounted to only 11,933. Charles II. granted it a market in 1660. The town is situated on the shore of a fine bay, and the houses are built .chiefly on the sides of a ravine. The streets, many of which were laid out by Sir John Lowther at the end of the 17th cent., are regular, and cross each other at right angles. The neighbouring country is bare, and is undermined in every direction by the pits and galleries of coal¬ mines, which have been worked for a great length of time, and form the chief resource of the place. Coal first began to be regularly worked here about the year 1620. In 1709 the weekly output was under 750 tons ; in 1737 nearly 2000 ; from 1780 to 1800 about 3200 tons, sold at 4s. a ton ; and for the following half centy. 4000 to 5000 tons, selling at from 5s. to 9s. per ton. The mines are pro¬ vided with tramways from the pits to the piers, and vessels are laden with the greatest facility. The coal-mines of Whitehaven are most interesting. Route 2 .— Whitehaven: Coal Pits. 27 The shafts and galleries not only penetrate the adjacent hills, hut their ramifications extend for 3 in. under the sea. The handsome building on the 1. of the harbour, resembling a castle with a lofty columnar chimney, is the engine-house of the Wellington Pit (150 fathoms deep), one of the most important mines in the country. Its passages are lofty, airy, and lined with masonry. The upper galleries communicate with those of the Wil¬ liam Pit (103 fathoms deep), sunk in 1812, on the rt. of the harbour. The workmen are thus enabled to pass from one mine to the other by sub¬ marine passages descending on one side of the harbour and ascending on the other. Plans of the mines may be seen at the office in Lowther Street. “ One who has any feeling for the wonders of the old w'orld, or any interest in the power of human skill, will do well to visit the Whitehaven coalfield. The enormous underground excavations, the costly machinery, the living world many hundred feet below the surface of the earth, the streams of gas perpetually rising from the coal-beds, the great breaks and con¬ tortions of the solid strata, the pro¬ digious influence the mineral treasures are exercising over the whole civilized world, are assuredly subjects of no common interest, considered either physically or morally.” — Seclgiviclc (see Introduction). These mines are the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, and are worked by agents on his behalf. The Wellington Pit, William Pit, and the Henry Pit (140 fathoms), close to William Pit, sunk in 1876, are the great mines which chiefly support the coal trade of White¬ haven. The mechanical contrivances for economising labour and effecting the transport of the coal to the ships are admirable. The William Pit was (18G4) raising 400 tons of coal every 24 hours, and 50 horses were kept permanently underground, some of them not having seen daylight for 20 years. The Wellington Pit is a mine of even greater importance, and the workings are deeper in conse¬ quence of the dip of the strata being to the S.W., making a difference of nearly 50 fathoms in the relative depths of the 2 mines. A temporary suspension of the working of the Wellington Pit took place in 18(53 in consequence of the lowest seam (13 ft. thick) having been acci¬ dentally ignited by the fire from a [stationary steam-engine employed underground instead of horse-power. It was found impossible to extinguish the flames except by letting the sea into the pit, for which purpose a boring w r as made near high-water¬ mark, through which the water was permitted to flow for a week to the lowest levels, which, in 18G4, had been under water for 12 months without any certainty that the fire had even in that time been com¬ pletely extinguished. The coal exported from White¬ haven in 18G2 amounted to 196,294 tons, but in 1863 only to 151,583 tons; the falling off having been occasioned by the diminished returns from the Wellington Pit from the accident referred to. The other great export from Whitehaven is iron-ore (haematite) from the neighbouring mines. The great feature of Whitehaven is its Harbour and the noble West Pier, one of the finest structures of the kind in England. It extends 3G5 yards into the sea, is 57 ft. high and 63 ft. broad, and is built of sand stone obtained from the neighbouring quarries. It was designed by Sir John Rennie, and forms a fine pro¬ menade. The area of the harbour is 60 acres. The Castle is a plain man¬ sion occasionally occupied by the Earl of Lonsdale. The churches are remarkable for nothing but their extreme ugliness. Paul Jones the notorious pirate landed here in 1778 with 30 men from an American 28 Route 3 .—Rcivenglass to Ambleside. privateer, and burnt 3 ships in the harbour. He had been apprenticed in the town in his youth, and fitted out a ship at Nantes expressly for the expedition. He was obliged to re¬ embark precipitately, but he took the precaution of first spiking the guns of the battery. ROUTE 3. RAVENGLASS TO AMBLESIDE, BY BOOT (RAIL— 7 ill.), ESKDALE, AND LITTLE LANGDALE (carriage — 15 ill.). For Rte. from stations on the Furness Ely., see Rte. 2. This is a narrow-gauge line some¬ what resembling the Festiniog Ely., in Wales. It runs through very pleasing scenery, and affords, es¬ pecially to pedestrians, easy access to one of the finest and least visited valleys in the county. The Inns are few, and still rather primitive, but lodgings are to be had, and are a good deal frequented by folk from the towns on the coast. Quitting the main line the railway turns N.E. along the valley of the Mite towards Muncaster Fell (757 ft.), which is seen rt. finely placed between this valley and that of the Esk. Scafell now comes into view. 4 m. Irton Road Stat. The Mite, wdiich is now left behind, rises close to Burnmoor Tarn, and has near its head a curious little “ cirque.*’ Visitors to Miterdale and Eskdale should read a collection of stories by Miss Rea, called the ‘ Beckside Boggle.’ From this point the line follows the course of the carriage-road from Whitehaven, formerly the only way of visiting Eskdale. Worm Crag (1400 ft.), and Harter Fell (2100 ft.) are now seen (rt.) across the Esk; 5 m, Eskdale Green Stat., nearest stat. to the King of Prussia Inn, On the 1. the steep hillsides are now scarred with red debris from tho haematite mines. The discovery of these mines is the subject of one of Miss Rea’s stories, m. Boot Stat. $ [F rom this point Scafell and the Pike may be easily ascended. About | m. up the 1. bank of the picturesque Whillan Beck, which brings down the waters of Burnmoor Tarn, the road approaches a mill. Here a faint track (rt.) leads away E. to Eel Tarn Q in.), § m. further in the same direction Stony Tarn is passed on the 1. In another J m. Cowcove Beck is crossed, and then the course sweeps round to the N., keeping along the flank of Scafell to the fine waterfall called Cam Spout. The stream, which should be crossed below the fall, now forms a guide up to Mickledore, whence the Pike is easily reached over a wilderness of stone-blocks ; but for Scafell the best plan is to incline to the 1., about 5 m. above the Spout, and make straight for the summit. Cam Spout may also be reached by following up the course of the Esk, which has some picturesque falls. This is longer, but less laborious for a stranger. To Wasdale Head, G m., there is a rough track across Burnmoor, follow r - ing the rt. bank of the Whillan Beck, closely at first, and then at 200 yds. to 300 yds. distance, and crossing it wdiere it issues from Burnmoor Tarn (832 ft.). The pass now lies straight ahead, and very little higher.] About 1 m. N. of Boot are 5 stone circles in 2 groups, enclosing cairns. Others have been destroyed, one at least to build the gamekeeper’s house near Burnmoor Tarn. 29 1loute 3 .— Eslcdale—Birker Force. Bat the chief attraction of Boot lies in its convenient situation for the exploration of Eskdale. $ This beautiful valley is usually entered from the E., by the pass of Hardknot, but much of the effect of its scenery is thus lost. It is best to approach it from the 44 King of Prussia,” a small public-house at the further end, and to proceed as far as Hardknot, 5 m. The scenery thus gradually rises in interest as the head of the valley is approached. The geological formation in Eskdale is of a bolder character than that of many of the Cumberland vales ; the rugged escarp¬ ments and pillared masses of rock in¬ dicate the existence of granite, and the luxuriant vegetation and the pre¬ valence of wood are the effects of a soil enriched by its disintegration. The granite of Eskdale is the most considerable mass of that rock in Cumberland. It forms rugged hills on both sides of the Esk and the Mite, ranging up to the higher forks of those rivers. At its N.W. and N.E. extremities it forms two long pro¬ jecting masses, one of which strikes over Irton Fell and blends with the granite of Wasdale Head ; the other, after ranging along the side of Sca- fcll above Burnmoor Tarn, crops out occasionally from under turf bogs, and passes over the hills into Was¬ dale Head. In Upper Eskdale the granite in one or two places passes nearly into a compact rock, and has a semi-columnar structure. Red fels- pathic veins shoot from the granite into the slates. Many examples of this may be seen in the hills near Eskdale Head. The two waterfalls, Stanley Gill Fall and Birker Force, are on the rt. of the road leading up the valley to Hardknot. Stanley Gill Fall is if m. from the inn at Boot, and about 2 m. from the 44 King of Prussia,” at the end of a deep, narrow, and thickly- wooded ravine. It is reached by following the main road down the valley for i m., when a road branches 1. across the Esk. A gate is soon seen rt. leadiug to a cottage, where a key may be obtained if required. Dalegarth Hall, now the farmhouse, was formerly a seat of the Stanleys. The stream which forms the fall lies 1. of the road in a ravine which has been made accessible by means of wooden bridges and stone steps. There are 2 falls ; but their beauty consists rather in the grouping of the rocks, and in the rich and varied vegetation, than in their volume of water or their height. Many of the rocks have ac¬ quired a pinnacled form, which, com¬ bined with the larches and firs, gives somewhat of an Alpine character to the scenery. Birker Force, 1 m. further up the valley on the rt. of the road, is about the same height as Stanley Gill, but it has not the same picturesque ac¬ cessories, and the tourist who has seen the one will scarcely find it worth while to go out of his way to view the other. The antiquary will find in Eskdale two objects of interest—the ruins of what is traditionally called 114 the ancient city of Barnscar,” and the Roman Camp at Hardknot. Barnscar is 2 m. from the head of Revoke Water, a moorland tarn at the foot of Birker Fell/l^ m. from the 44 King of Prussia,” J m. long, with a small rocky island in the centre, the haunt of cormorants and sea-birds. This tarn is famed for its fine trout, which are of a deep pink colour, and said to have been introduced by the monks of Furness Abbey from Italy. On the N.W. side are some fine masses of crystallized quartz, close to the junction of the granite and green slate. Devoke Water sends a tribu¬ tary to the Esk. Tradition ascribes the origin of the city of Barnscar to the Danes ; but from the shapeless masses of ruin which now cover the hill, very little can be even con¬ jectured of its former character and extent. Piles of unwrought stones. 30 Route 3 .— Woolpaclc—CocTcley Bcch. probably once the foundations of houses, are seen in the neighbourhood of the lake, and on the hills at its N. side. The object in collecting the stones together was apparently to clear the ground for pasture or cul¬ tivation. There are some remains of an ancient road which'passed through Barnscar from Ulpha to Ravenglass. It is a wild and dreary spot, and can have little interest but for archaeo¬ logists. A boat is kept on Devoke Water, the use of which, for fishing, may be obtained on application to the Steward of the Manor, or through the landlord of the “ King of Prussia.” Proceeding up the valley from Boot we reach 1 m. Woolpach Inn , from which there is a'short cut to Wasdale by way of Eel Tarn and Burnmoor (sec Rte. 9). 2 m. the Esk is crossed, and the road soon after begins the ascent to Hardknot Pass. [2% m. above this bridge are the picturesque falls of the Esk at Throstlegarth on the way to Bow Fell, which is a fine feature at the head of the valley.] Soon after getting on to unenclosed ground, 3 m., the remains of Hard¬ knot Castle lie about 100 yds. 1. of the road, and about half-way to the top of the pass. The remains are of a Roman fortress which was erected here for the protection of the pass. From the state of the ruins it may be gathered that the fort was an enclosure of about 300 ft. square, formed of stone obtained on the spot, with the exception of the corners, which were apparently guarded by round towers of freestone, the greater part of which has been taken away for building purposes. Roman bricks have been found among the foun¬ dations. An opening to the W. leads to a cleared portion of the Fell, 150 yards square, which was doubtless the parade-ground of the garrison. It is called by the country people the “bowling-green,” from the smooth¬ ness of its surface. On the N. is an artificial mound, on the top of which are the remains of a round tower which was probably an observatory. Wordsworth’s sonnet on the Roman and Druidical remains in Eskdale is very characteristic— “ A dark plume fetch me from yon blasted yew, Perched on whose top the Danish raven croaks; Aloft the imperial bird of Rome invokes Departed ages, shedding where he flew Loose fragments of wild wailing that be¬ strew The clouds, and thrill the chambers of the rocks, And into silence hush the timorous flocks, That, calmly couching while the nightly dew Moistened each fleece beneath the twinkling stars, Slept amid that lone camp on Hard Knot’s height, Whose guardians bent the knee to Jove and Mars, Or near that mystic round of Druid frame, Tardily sinking by its proper weight Deep into patient earth, from whose smooth breast it came.” Nothing can exceed the desolate grandeur of the scenery at the foot of Scafell and Bowfell, to appreciate which it is necessary to track the Esk to its sources amidst those “ unpeopled glens And mountainous retirements, only trod By devious footsteps, regions consecrate To oldest time.” 4 m. Summit of Hardknot Pass, 1291 ft. The Coniston range now comes into view from end to end, across the valley of the Duddon, here somewhat bare and sterile, though the lower and richer part of it is in sight. The sea too is visible. A short but rapid descent is now made to the lonely cottage of 5 m. Cockley Beck. (For the valley of the Duddon from here, see Rte. 8.) The road now follows the river through a wild and dreary valley, up to its source near Route 4.— Ulverston to Collision , 7 m. Wrynose Gap, 1270 ft., and a little farther are the Three Shire stones. Little Langdale lies in front with its tarn, and beyond are Wansfell and the cone of Ill Bell. The road now descends along the flank of Pike o’ Blisco, with the infant Brathay andjWetherlam on the rt., to 8| m. Fell Foot Farm, sheltered by yews; [just beyond it a road turns off rt., crosses the river, and reaches Coniston through the beautiful but quarry-scarred glen of Tilberthwaite in about 5 m. or less for a pedestrian. The turning 1. about l m. beyond Fell Foot, leads over a low pass by Blea Tarn to Dungeon Gill (3 m.), offering midway a surprising view of the Langdale Pikes.] 9^ m. the road 1. leads to Elter- water. 10J m. A gate rt. (key at the cottage where three roads meet, a little farther on) gives access down a steep bank to Colwith Force, one of the most perfect little falls to be seen anywhere (Rte. 10). The stream is now to be crossed, and a short climb follows to join the road from Coniston to Ambleside over Oxenfell (Rte. 8), which is followed for the rest of the way to llj m. Skelwith Bridge (Inn). 14J in. Ambleside. (see Rte. 5). ROUTE 4. Ulverston to coniston, by fox- field AND BROUGHTON (RAIL). 31 111. For route as far as Furness Abbey (G m.), see Rte. 1, and thence to Fox- field Junct., 15 m. (Rte. 2), O I Ol The rly. is continued [by a single line to Coniston, 10 in. 1 m. from Foxfield is Broughton, $ a small neat town built on a gentle slope. Broughton forms a very pleasant and convenient centre for several days of excursions. Having a rly. in 3 directions, it is within easy reach of all Furness; of the Old Man and all the Coniston district; and of the coast line. Moreover, it is the best starting-point for the beautiful Dud- don Valley, for Black Combe and its famous view, and for many prehistoric remains of great interest, such as those at Silecroft and Swinside. Moreover, it is quite out of the rush of tourists. Ch. small, but well restored. Broughton Tower (John Sawrey, Esq.), an old embattled, gloomy- looking mansion, on a hill above the town, is approached by an avenue of ancient firs. A portion of the N. side of the mansion is all that remains of the ancient edifice. The walls are of immense thickness, but the interior has been considerably modernised It originally belonged to Sir Thomas Broughton, who joined Lambert Sininel on his landing. The family of Broughton was of great antiquity, and the influence of Sir Thomas Broughton was so considerable that he was one of the prominent mem¬ bers of the confederacy which at¬ tempted to subvert the government of Henry VII. Sir Thomas is said to have fallen in battle; but there is a tradition that he lived many years in concealment at Witherslack in Westmorland. The views from the grounds of Broughton Tower which are open to tourists, both inland and towards the sea, will repay a short visit. There is nothing in the mansion itself that deserves notice. [For Black Combe it is best to take the rail to Silecroft (10 m.). Here the stone circles may be in¬ spected on the way up the mountain, by keeping towards the Millom side. 32 Route 5 .—Lancaster to Ambleside. On reaching the "summit (see Rte. 2 for description and view), steer N.E. along the ridge, leave White Combe rt., and drop to a farm called Swinside. Close by is a fine stone circle in good preservation. The diameter is 92 ft., and number of stones 55. Four of these form a gateway to the S.E. Broughton is now reached by a good but circuitous road. Much time may be saved by striking across the axis of the small valley, and over the small hills on the opposite side, when a path will be seen leading quickly down through woods to the Duddon Bridge. The Duddon Valley is fully de¬ scribed in Rte. 8.] 4 m. Woodland Stat. [From this point the foot of Coniston is distant 3 m. due E. It is a pleasant walk over Blawith Beacon, and com¬ mands varied views.] 7jj m. Torver Stat. Here Dow Crag and the Old Man are seen on the 1. separated by a depression, in which lies Goat’s Water. The ascent may be more easily made from Torver than from any other point. The way is easily found, as the beck just beyond the stat. conies straight down from the tarn. This stream should be kept at a little distance on the rt. hand, till after passing some deep quarries (pitfalls for the unwary in misty weather), the Walney Scar road is reached. The easiest ascent of Dow Crags is made by following the road to the top of the pass, and then turn¬ ing rt. along the ridge, which may be followed round to the summit of the Old Man. But this misses the view of the tarn and crags from below, which is highly impressive. Accordingly, it is far better to pass along the rt. or E. shore of the tarn, and after some very rough walking strike the col at the head of it, from which the Old Man is easily reached. For view, &c., see Rte. 8. 10 m. Coniston Stat, The town lies below on the rt. The main road leads past the Crown (f m.) to the Waterhead Hotel (f m.). See Rte 8. ROUTE 5. LANCASTER TO AMBLESIDE, BY CARNFORTH, MILNTHORPE, OXEN- HOLME, AND KENDAL — RAIL, 35 111., COACH, 5 111. — BOWNESS AND WINDERMERE LAKE. G m. Carnfortli Stat. The line branches off here to Ulvereton (Rte. 1), just before passing the small station of Burton. 13J m. Milnthorpe Stat. $ (800), a small market-town, and a dependent seaport of Lancaster, resorted to in the summer months as a watering- place. The lodging-houses are very humble, but there is a fine expanse of sand at low water. The town is well built, the E. part is the most modern. There arc a few paper- mills. The parish ch. is at Hevers- ham, 1 m. from the town. The style is Early Eng., but some portions are Norm. There are some ancient monuments of the Bellingham and Preston families, and a handsome memorial window to Col. Howard. Bishop Watson, the author of the £ Apology for the Bible,’ was a native of Heversham, and was educated at its grammar school. [2 m. S. of Milnthorpe is the pretty village of Beetham, on the river Beetha, which is crossed by a bridge of 3 arches. The walk is an inter¬ esting one, keeping the Beetha and its wooded banks to the rt. The lioute 5 .—Dallam Tower—Kendal. ch., dedicated to St, Michael, is partly Norm., with round and octagon pillars, and an intermixture of pointed and semicircular arches. The S. door is Early Norm. In digging for a grave in 1834, near the pillar against which the pulpit stands, coins of Edw. the Confessor, Will. I. and Will. II. were found in a cavity hollowed out in a block of ashlar. On the S. side of the chancel is an altar-tomb with two effigies, repre¬ senting Sir Thos. de Beetham and his lady, the latter in her shroud with hands clasped. The figures are much defaced. There is much carved oak work on some of the seats, and the windows are decorated with ancient and some modern stained glass ; much of the former was destroyed by Fairfax’s soldiers. | m. S.W. of Milnthorpe is Dallam Tower (E. II. Wilson, Esq.), beauti¬ fully situated on the banks of the Kent, in an extensive deer-park, backed by wooded hills. The park, which contains some fine beeches, is entered by a stone bridge with a single arch over the river Beetha. The mansion, built in 1720, com¬ mands fine views of the Cartmel peninsula, Whitbarrow Scar, and Lythe Fell, on the opposite side of the Kent, and of Silverdale. The river Beetha is a capital trout-stream, and the Kent, above Milnthorpe, also affords excellent sport. Permission to fish these waters can be generally obtained through the landlord of the Cross Keys. 19 m. Oxenholme Stat. Here the line branches to Kendal and Winder- mere, the main line proceeding to Penrith and Carlisle. A change of carriages takes place here. From the stat. there is a pleasing view of Kendal and its old castle, 1| m. distant. 21 m. KENDAL. $ Pop. in 1871, 13,446 ; in 1881, 13,696, of whom [English Lakes.'} 3000 are employed in the woollen manufactories. Kendal is virtually the metropolis of Westmorland, al¬ though not the county town, and is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Kent. There are 8 considerable manufactories ; carpets, combs, cards, rough blankets, linseys, horse-cloths, railway wrappers, &c., are produced. The “ three misbegotten knaves in Kendal green,” of Shakspeare, wore the green serge or drugget made here. The town consists of two principal streets, from which others diverge. The houses are of limestone, quarried from the fells above the town. [1J m. S. W. of the town is the bold eminence of Scout Scar, composed of limestone, with its escarpment facing W. It commands very striking views over the southern portion of the Lake district. Several beds of carboni¬ ferous limestone are here exposed, and yield abundantly the shells and fossils characteristic of that formation, in¬ cluding several hundred species of bivalve and univalve shells, fishes’ teeth and bones, specimens of all which may be seen in the Natural History Museum of the town. “ Part of the upper Ludlow rocks of the Silurian system may be seen cropping out beneath the limestone, and rising through the peat moss in rounded masses in various parts of the valley below. A walk round the S. ex¬ tremity of the Fell will amply repay the geologist, by a beautiful section through the limestone and Silurian beds down to the level of the moss.” — Sedgwick. The travelled blocks of greenstone and granite which rest on the top and sides of the Fell will not escapo observation.] Kendal was incorporated in the reign of Elizabeth, and is said to have been one of the first towns in England that published a provincial newspaper. It is no longer a borough'; but under the Act of 1885 it gives a T> 34 lloute 5. Kendal, name to the S. division of the county, which returns 1 M.P. Many of the best houses have portes cocheres, as in continental towns. The Church, is almost the only public building which deserves a visit. It covers a large space, and is nearly square (110 ft. by 103 ft.) in con¬ sequence of the great breadth of the aisles, additions having been made to it from time to time, which have given its architecture a very mixed character. Most of the present church was erec¬ ted in the latter half of the 15th cent.; but the nave, arcades, and a portion, of the tower, are 2 or 3 cents, earlier. The Parr and Bel¬ lingham aisles added largely to the extent of the original church, of which the foundations were exposed to view during the restoration in 1850. The side chapels have also been incorporated with the church. On each side of the altar are 2 ora¬ tories long used as the burial-places of distinguished families who resided in the neighbourhood. The monu¬ ment of Sir Roger Bellingham and his wife, 1533, is worthy of notice. The E. and some other windows are filled with modem stained glass. There was a piscina of very early date (1201), but it has been removed from its original position and placed in the vestry, and a new one sub¬ stituted for it. In one of the side chapels is the tomb of a vicar of Kendal who wrote his own epitaph, comprising an epitome of his life, in quaint doggrel. The helmet sus¬ pended in the N. aisle belonged to the redoubtable Major Philipson (Robin the Devil), of Belle Isle, Windermere, who rode into the church during Divine service in search of Colonel Briggs, an officer in Crom¬ well’s army, who had made himself particularly obnoxious to the major. The incident is referred to by Sir W. Scott, in ‘ Rokeby ’:— “ The outmost crowd have heard a sound, bike horse’s hoof on hardened ground; Nearer it came, and yet more near,— The very deaths-men paused to hear. ’Tis in the churchyard now—the tread Hath waked the dwelling of the dead! Fresh sod, and old sepulchral stone, Return the tramp in varied tone. All eyes upon the gateway hung, When through the Gothic arch thei*e sprung A horseman armed, at headlong speed— Sable his cloak, his plume, his steed. Fire from the flinty floor was spurned, The vaults unwonted clang returned! ” Sir Walter Scott in a note gives the following account of this strange occurrence:— “ Belle Isle, on Windermere, for¬ merly belonged to the Philipsons, a family of note in Westmorland. During the civil wars, two of them, an elder and a younger brother, served the king. The former, who was the proprietor of it, commanded a regiment; the latter was a major. “ The major, whose name was Robert, was a man of great spirit and enterprise; and for his many feats of personal bravery had obtained, among the Oliverians of those parts, the appellation of Robert the Devil. “ After the war had subsided, and the direful effects of public opposition had ceased, revenge and malice long kept alive the animosity of indi¬ viduals. Colonel Briggs, a steady friend to usurpation, resided at this time at Kendal, and, under the double character of a leading magistrate (for he was a justice of peace) and an active commander, held the country in awe. This person, having heard that Major Philipson was at his brother’s house on the island in Win¬ dermere, resolved, if possible, to seize and punish a man who had made himself so particularly obnoxious. How it was conducted my authority does not inform us—whether he got together the navigation of the lake and blockaded the place by sea, or whether he landed and carried on his approaches in form. Neither do we learn the strength of the garrison within, nor of the works without. All we learn is, that Major Philipson endured a siege of eight months with Boute 5 .— Kendal. 35 gallantry, till his brother, the colonel, raised a party and relieved him. “ It was now the major’s turn to make reprisals. He put himself, therefore, at the head of a little troop of horse, and rode to Kendal. Here, being informed that Colonel Briggs was at prayers (for it was on a Sunday morning), he stationed his men properly in the avenues, and himself armed, rode directly into the church. It is said he intended to seize the colonel and carry him off; but as this seems to have been totally impracticable, it is rather probable that his intention was to kill him on the spot, and in the midst of the con¬ fusion to escape. Whatever his in¬ tention was, it was frustrated, for Briggs happened to be elsewhere. “ The congregation, as might be expected, was thrown into great con¬ fusion on seeing an armed man on horseback make his appearance among them ; and the major, taking advan- of their astonishment, turned his horse round, and rode quietly out. But having given an alarm, he was presently assaulted as he left the assembly, and, being seized, his girths were cut, and he was unhorsed. “ At this instant his party made a furious attack on the assailants, and the major killed with his own hand the man who had seized him, clapped the saddle, ungirthed as it was, upon his horse, and, vaulting into it, rode full speed through the streets of Kendal, calling his men to follow him ; and with his whole party made a safe retreat to his asylum in the lake. The action marked the man. Many knew him; and they who did not, knew as well from the exploit that it could be nobody but Kobin the Devil.” The new Ch. of St. George is a handsome building. The Museum of the Natural History Society contains numerous Westmorland minerals, fossils, &c. &c., and other objects of general interest, The Castle is | m. from the town. The ruins are not extensive, and consist only of four greatly dilapi¬ dated towers, with portions of the surrounding walls. Little is known of the history of this castle. It be¬ longed to the barony of Kendal, and its construction is assigned to the 12th or the early part of the 13th century. The round tower is the most perfect, and was probably the strongest part of the castle. Under one of the towers is a dungeon with a conical roof. The entrance was on the N.; to the S. is a postern ; to the E. are the remains of two vaulted chambers, probably kitchens or cellars ; above were the hall and principal apart¬ ments. A moat, cut out of the lime¬ stone, encircles the whole. In advance of the N. side are the remains of an outwork, with a mound and ditch. The walls were low. The upper chamber of the dungeon or W. tower is inaccessible, nor are there any re¬ mains of a door or staircase. Judging from the fragments which remain, there is nothing either of Norm, or of E. Eng. in the plan or masonry. After Ivo de Taillebois, of the House of Anjou, came over with the Conqueror, he won the heart and lands of Lucy, a connection and heiress of Turold, the English Lord of Spalding, and obtained a portion of Lancashire and that portion of Westmorland called the “ Barony of Kendal.” His descendants, as owning great part of Lancashire, were called De Lancaster, but the property soon passed away by heiresses to the families of—first, De Brus of Skelton (nearly related to the famous Kobert Bruce) ; secondly, De Ros, Barons of Werke ; and, 4 generations later, Parr of Kendal, who continued to hold it for the greater part of 2 centuries. Queen Katherine Parr, the Gth wife of Henry VIII., was of this family, and born here. The barony became extinct from failure of male heirs in 1334; and the presumed last P 2 36 Haute 5 .— Kendal—Levens Hall. descendant of this ancient line Emily Tailbois, died in 1863 a pauper in Shrewsbury workhouse. Henry V. made his brother John Duke of Bed¬ ford and Earl of Kendal; and after John's death the Crown created Henry Beaufort Duke of Somerset and Earl of Kendal. After Beaufort's death. Henry VI. conferred the title on a foreigner, John, son of Gaston de Foix. with whom it expired. The first Duke of Kendal was Charles, son of James Duke of York. He died an infant. Prince George of Denmark, on his marriage with the Princess Anne, was created Duke of Cumberland and Earl of Kendal. With him the title again expired, but George II. created his foreign mistress. Madame Von Schulemberg, Duchess of Kendal, since whose death the title has been dormant. On the opposite side of the river Kent, facing the castle, is a circular eminence called Castlebrow Hill, surrounded by a moat, and supposed to be of Saxon origin, and a place for the administration of justice. On the top is an obelisk erected to com¬ memorate the Revolution of 1688. There was a Roman station at Kendal, 1 m. below the town of Watercrook, where a garrison was posted for the security of Ambleside and Over¬ borough. The line of the fosse may still be traced. Several altars, in¬ scriptions, and other Roman remains, now deposited in the museum of the town, have been found near it. The neighbourhood of Kendal, particularly Scout Scar, will be found interesting to the botanist. On Ken¬ dal Fell, above the limekilns, will be found Spergula nodosa, Gentiana, amarella and campestris, Asperula cynanchica, and Polypodium cal- careum; and on Scout Scar, Helian- themum canum, Thalictrum minus, Geranium sanguineum or bloody crane's-bill, Hypericum hirsutum. A great variety of freshwater shells mav be collected in the yicinity. [Sizergh Hall (W. C. Strickland. Esq.), 3 m. S., is an ancient fortified mansion, and consists of a centre and 2 wings. The great tower or “ peel,” at the S.E. corner, 60 feet high, re¬ mains entire. In the corners of this tower are closets for watchmen, with oblique apertures in the wall, so that no weapon or missile could enter the apartment beyond. The centre part has been considerably altered and modernised. In the lower wing, which is very ancient but not em¬ battled, are a modem breakfast-room and a dining-room, wainscoted with oak in ancient panelwork. In the three upper stories of the great tower are the chapel, plain and modern, and the drawing-room, finely wains¬ coted with oak. Opposite, on the same floor, is the principal bedroom, ornamented with Gobelin tapestry, and which has received the name of the Queen's Room, from Katherine Parr having occupied it after the death of her husband, Edward Lord Burgh, and before her marriage with John Neville, Lord Latimer. A mag¬ nificent counterpane and toilet-cover are shown as her work. The oak wainscoting is very fine, and nearly all of one period. There is a remnant of old cane-work pattern in the library. There is a fine speci¬ men of veneering in a room called the Inlaid Room, in which the panels of the bed are variegated with holly and fossil oak. The cornice of this bed is surmounted with a shield bear¬ ing the Strickland and Delincourt arms, in oak; date 1568. The interior is shown only in the absence of the family. Levens Hall is an old manorial house, 5 m. S. of Kendal, on the banks of the river Kent. It is an ancient seat of a branch of the family of the Howards. In the gardens the yews (some of which are 200 years old), hollies, and other trees are clipped into the most fantastic shapes, such as bottles, dumb-waiters, birds, &c.; one is made to resemble a judge's j Route 5 .— Kendal—Windermere 37 wig, and another an oven. They were laid out by Beaumont, who designed the Hampton Court Gar¬ dens. There is a portrait of him in the house, which possesses some tine oak carvings. In the dining-room Samson and Hercules are represented supporting the carved mantelpiece, which is adorned with emblematic figures of “ the four elements, the five senses, and the four seasons.” The carved decorations of this room are said to have cost 3000Z. The house contains some good tapestry. Among the pictures are portraits of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, and a few by Sir Peter Lely. The park is stocked with deer and well wooded, and is adorned with avenues of much beauty.] Kendal to Windermere. 2 m. Burneside Stat., a small village, at the mouth of the valley Long Sled- dale, composed of the neat and orderly cottages of the workers in the paper mills of Mr. James Cropper, whose residence, Ellergreen, is seen on 1. 25i m. Staveley Stat. The scenery here becomes very striking, and in¬ dicates that the mountain region is not far distant. The hills are well wooded, and present many pic¬ turesque views. There is a small woollen manufactory, and several bobbin-mills, for which the Kent supplies motive power. 29 m. WINDERMERE Stat. $ In Jan. 1887 great efforts were made to get Parliamentary sanction for a con¬ tinuation of the rlv. to Ambleside, but the Bill was rejected, mainly through the exertions of the Lake District Defence Association. The lake is not visible from the rlv. until the stat. is nearly reached, when a glimpse of it is caught towards the W., lying under wood-crowned heights. The mountains which clus¬ ter round its N. extremity are just visible in the distance. From the terrace of the hotel a considerable portion of the lake is seen, and the first view of this beautiful sheet of waf er is calculated to raise the highest expectations. The village of Win¬ dermere, formerly called Birthwaite, is 1J m. from the lake. Since it was made a rlv. terminus it has become a place of some importance, increasing its population from 909 in 1871, to 1269 in 1881, and it is adorned with numerous villas in the Gothic stvle. A noble panoramic view of Winder- mere is obtained from Orrest Head, a hill a little above the hotel. Elleray (A. H. Hey wood, Esq.), formerly the residence of Prof. Wilson (Christopher North), lies on the rt. at a short distance from the stat. The views from the grounds are unequalled, and the whole of Windermere Lake can be seen from them. “ The pecu¬ liar and not-to-be-forgotten feature of the scene from Elleray is the great system of mountains which unite about 5 m. off at the head of the lake, to lock in and enclose this noble landscape. The several ranges which stand at various distances within 6 or 7 m. of Ambleside, all separately various in their forms and all emi¬ nently picturesque, appear to blend and group as parts of one connected whole ; and when their usual drapery of clouds happens to take a fortunate arrangement, and the sunlights are properly broken and thrown from the most suitable quarter of the heavens, I cannot recollect any spec¬ tacle in England or Wales, having a local, if not a national reputation, for magnificence of prospect, which so much delights with a sense of power and aerial sublimity as the terrace view from Elleray ."—De Quincey .f [A visitor passing a few days at Windermere, and not intending to make a complete tour of the Lake district, will find an excursion over f This description will equally apply to the view from Orrest Head. The path from "Win¬ dermere passes through the Elltray grounds, and (by permission) is freely open to visitors. 38 Route 5 .— Windermere — Boivness. the Fells to Mardale and Hawes- water, through the Kentmere Valley, 12 m., very interesting. The head of Kentmere is deservedly celebrated as one of the most beautiful mountain groups in the district. Two routes may be taken—one by turning sharply rt. I m. short of Troutbeck Ch., and so mounting the hill past some slate quarries to the top of Garbourn Pass (1450 ft.), with splendid views along Windermere. From this point the least laborious course is to follow the ridge N. for 3 m., and then, leaving 1. the column on Thornthwaite Crag, steer E.N.E. and descend to Mardale Green, between Small Water and Blea Water. But the usual course is to drop to Kentmere (a grievous sacrifice of height) and then mount up again to Nan Bield Axle. In fine weather much distance may be saved by working round 1. through a pretty Scotch bit of rich heather and broken rocks, haunted by grouse, and then descending near the bold face of Rainsbarrow Crag. Hence there is a good path to near Kentmere Reser¬ voir, from the foot of which it is necessary to incline rt. up the hill. The other way is from Staveley, taking the rly. to that place, 4 m., and commencing the ascent of the Kentmere valley from the stat. The upper part of the valley divides, the 1. part passing under High Street, the rt. leading to the Nan Bield Pass by a gradual ascent; the ridge to be crossed is that which connects Harter Fell with High Street. Zigzag paths lead up to the summit of Nan Bield, from which Smallwater is seen in the hollow below. The bridle-road de¬ scends abruptly into Mardale. Small- water, a picturesque tarn, lies to the 1. The small Inn at Mardale Head is 1 m. from Haweswater (Rte. 6).] BOWNESS, $ ljm. from Winder- mere Stat. Steam yachts ply every hr. between Bowness and Lake Side at the foot of the lake, and Water- head, the N. extremity, 1 m. from Ambleside, calling at Low Wood and the Ferry opposite Bowness. Ferry across the lake every hour. Boats are kept for excursions and fishing parties. There is a coach every morning toUllswater (fare 6s., return 8s. 6(7.), where the steamer meets it and takes passengers to PoolevBridge : coach on to Penrith : rly. Penrith to Keswick, reaching it before 3 o’clock. There is also a coach to Coniston (fare 4s., return 6s.), and omnibuses (fare 6(7.) meet every train at Winder- mere Stat. The Church is very old, and was dedicated to St. Martin. It has a low square tower, and the windows have simple mullions, without tracery. The easternmost pier on the S. side commemorates Guy Fawkes’ Day in a curious Latin inscription, containing the pun “ Faucibus eripior Fauxis.’’ The fine stained glass in the E. window belonged to Cartmel Priory Ch. “ John Plo, P’or of Kerkmel,” may be plainly read on it. Very little of the design could be traced, in consequence of the imperfect man¬ ner in which the glass had been put together, and subsequent injury ; but in 1871 the window was very care¬ fully restored, each piece of new glass being dated to prevent subsequent confusion. The window is divided into seven compartments, one of which represents St. George and the Dragon, others the Crucifixion, the Virgin, St. Barbara, St. John, &c. Above are the arms of France and England, and a group of monks in their habits, with their names on scrolls under¬ neath. The whole is surrounded by a border of armed figures and tracery, with the armorial bearings of different families, benefactors to the Abbey. Mr. R. S. Ferguson, in a masterly discussion of the whole question, suggests that the glass (which must have been made about 1480) was brought here from Cartmel about 1523, and mutilated by the Parlia¬ mentarians in the 17th cent. Bishop Watson was buried in the churchyard 39 Route 5 .—Belle Isle — Windermere, hear the E. window, and there is neat monument to his memory in the ch. In 1865 some interesting traces of the Reformation were discovered on removing the whitewash and plaster from the walls, consisting of a great number of texts, with com¬ ments on them, explanatory of the new doctrines. Belle Isle, or Curwen’s Island, is nearly opposite Bowness, and com¬ prises about thirty acres prettily wooded, with a mansion in the mid¬ dle. Visitors are permitted to walk in the grounds. The island was a stronghold of the royalists during the civil wars, aud was the property of the Philipsons, an ancient family of Westmorland, of whom there are some monuments in the ch. of Bow¬ ness. There are several spots near Bow¬ ness whence fine views of the lake are to be obtained, especially from Bisket—or, as it is now more com¬ monly called, Biscay How, a rocky eminence to the E., and also from a field on the 1. of the road leading to Windermere village, and especially from Miller Brow, 1 m. on the Ambleside road. The woods of Cal- garth here form a foreground to a landscape of wonderful beauty, in¬ cluding the whole of the upper reach of the lake, Coniston Old Man, and Langdale Pikes. A short distance from Bowness, near the shore of the lake, is Rayrigg, an old mansion- house once occupied for a short time by William Wilberforce. There is a pleasant footpath to the ferry 1 m. across the fields. The ferry-boat conveys carriages and pas¬ sengers across the lake in J hour. A few minutes’ walk from the ferry inn is a summer-house called the Station, belonging to the pro¬ prietor of Curwen’s Island. Each window is filled with differently- coloured glass. The effect produced is singular. Windermere is the largest of the English lakes, being 10 m. in length, in circumference somewhat less than 23 m., but in breadth it rarely exceeds 1 m. Its principal affluents are the Rothay, the Brathay, Cunsey Beck, and the Troutbeck river. Its effluent is the Leven, which after a course of 5 m. enters Morecambe Bay. The water of Windermere is particularly clear, and the lake preserves a ge¬ nerally uniform level. Trout, pike, perch, and char abound in it, and salmon are occasionally taken. The fishing, however, might be greatly improved if greater care were taken to stop the increasing pollution. Not long ago the Lake was described as a “ gigantic cesspool.” The scenery of its banks is soft, excepting in its N. reach, where, in consequence of the proximity of the Langdale Pikes, and Bowfell, one of the most pictu¬ resque of the Cumberland mountains, it rises into grandeur. To see it thoroughly many excursions would be required. A considerable portion of it, however, has the appearance rather of a river than a lake. From Bow¬ ness to its S. extremity both banks are richly wooded, but the hills are only of moderate elevation. An excursion down the lake is recommended before its higher reach is visited. Leaving Bowness for Lake Side, the steamer first touches at the ferry, where there is a good Inn. On the promontory to the 1. is Storrs Hall (Rev. T. Staniforth). The mansion is finely situated, but the interior is not shown during the residence of the owner. It was built by Sir John Legard, and was often visited by Mr. Canning during the proprietorship of Mr. Bolton. In 1825 Canning, Scott; Wordsworth, and Wilson, “the Ad¬ miral of the Lake,” as Mr. Canning called him, assembled there, and the reunion of so many illustrious persons was celebrated by a brilliant regatta on Windermere, over which “ Chris¬ topher North ” presided. The man¬ sion contains some pictures of great 40 Route 5 .—Newby Bridge — Waterhead. merit. The collection was formed by Mr. Bolton. The following enu¬ meration of them is from Waagen’s ‘ Galleries and Cabinets of Art in Great Britain : ’—Lot and his Daugh¬ ters, by Guercino; a copy of Quentin Mcitsys' Misers, the original in Wind¬ sor Castle ; Joseph giving the Child to the Virgin, Murillo; a Sea-piece, by William Van de Velde ; Ruins, by Jan Asselyn ; an Apothecary with a Book in a window recess, by Metzu; a Landscape, by Jan Baptiste Weenix; a Virgin and Child, by Giovanni Bedrini; 4 small pictures of the Seasons, by Teniers ; a male Saint with a palm-branch, by Carlo Dolce; a Landscape, formerly in the possession of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Claude Lorraine; a Party in the open-air, by Jan Steen , one of the finest works of the. master ; a fine bust of Canning, by Chantrey. There is also a rich collection of porcelain, with specimens of the different ma¬ nufactories. After passing Storrs the little island of Ling Holm is seen, and 2 m. further Silver Holm; | m. be¬ yond is Blake Holm. The lofty height of Gummer’s How is passed on the 1. Newby Bridge, $ 1 m. from Lake Side. The river Leven flows in front of the hotel, amd is spanned by a bridge of 3 arches. The scenery here is extremely pleasing. The hill above the hotel should be ascended for the sake of the views of Winder- mere and of the Leven estuary. The Leven is a fine stream flowing over a rocky bed, and its banks are well wooded. A walk should be taken on its 1. bank as far as Backbarrow, m. There are few better salmon rivers in England, but the fishing is in the hands of a private association. Proceeding up the lake the scenery is more striking than in the down excursion to Newby Bridge. After passing Bowness, the woods of Cal- garth appear on the rt. Calgarth (Col. Watson) was the residence of Dr. Watson, Bishop of Llandaff, the author of the ‘ Apology for the Bible.’ He passed much of his time there, planting and making agricul¬ tural improvements. He was the first to introduce the larch into this district, the plantations of which now form, in many places, conspicuous features in the landscape. Low Wood. The steamer touches here to embark and disembark pas¬ sengers from the small pier in front of the Hotel, which is good and much frequented as a tourist’s station. The views from it form a great attraction. The coaches which run between Win¬ dermere, Ambleside, and Keswick call here. Wray Castle, on a wooded hill to the 1. (D. Ainsworth, Esq.), was built in 1842 by James Dawson, Esq., an eminent surgeon of Liverpool, and was meant to resemble a feudal for¬ tress of the Middle Ages, but without the appendages of moat and rampart. The views from it cannot be sur¬ passed. The interior is not shown, but permission can be obtained to enter the grounds. There is a creek with a boat-landing at a short dis¬ tance from the castle. After passing Wray Castle, on the rt. is Dove’s Nest, for a short time the residence of Mrs. Hemans,—a plain, unpretending house, but beautifully situated. On approaching the N. extremity of the lake the village of Clappersgate is seen nestling under the wooded heights of Louglirigg, and Brathay Hall, in the centre of a wooded park at the head. Waterhead, $ the port of Ambleside, distant 1| m. from the town. Omni¬ buses are always in waiting for the steamers to convey passengers either to Ambleside or Grasmere. On the 1. of the road, on a gentle eminence, is Wanlass How, a tasteful villa re¬ sidence. The river Brathay enters the lake at its northern extremity, after having effected a junction with the Rothay, a little higher up; the one descends from the Langdale Route 5 .— Waterhcad — Ambleside. 41 Pikes, flowing through Langdale and Elterwater; the other has its source above Grasmere, and flows through the Rydal Valley. The char of Windermere ascend the Brathay in the spawning season, and trout the Rothay. Boats are kept at Water- head for excursions on the lake, the shores of which in this, its upper reach, are very interesting. The little Bay of Pull Wyke should he visited. Passing the grounds of Brathay Hall a richly-wooded creek is entered, which presents a perfect picture of soft and sylvan beauty. Many days would he required to explore the numerous bays and pro¬ montories of a lake which has always excited the enthusiastic admiration of tourists and even of those most familiar with its charms. “ Live by it 50 years, aud by degrees you may come to know something worth tell¬ ing of it .”—Professor Wilson. The peculiar attraction of Windermere is its finely-marked and varied outline. “ Here the land gently swells into the lake, and there the water seems to seek a more deep repose in hays and coves which it has formed by a kindly-soliciting influence from the shore. There are occasionally points of boldness enough to prevent tame¬ ness ; hut the land and water seem never to have contended for empire. Where the former advances it is gradually, and not by sharp angular projections, hut graceful curves ; and where the water encroaches you might easily imagine that it was only that it might spread a calm surface beneath the hills, to reflect more vividly their noble forms,”— Ghan- nintj. No better mode can be sug¬ gested for enjoying the scenery of Windermere, than to take the steamer to Newby Bridge from Watcrhead, then to walk or drive along the whole of its W. shore to Ambleside, 14 m. The Ferry Inn, about halfway, is a convenient resting-place. The road is hilly, and from the number of gates inconvenient for carriages, hut the scenery will afford the highest grati¬ fication. The laurels which clothe the sides of the hills are of extra¬ ordinary size. The road, after pass¬ ing Wray Castle, joins that from Hawkshead ; the return to Ambleside is over Brathay Bridge and through the village of Clappersgate. Windermere St at. to Ambleside by Iload .—The scenery for the whole distance, 6 m., is eminently beautiful. Passing under the heights of Elleray on the rt. and by the woods of Cal- garth on the 1., Troutbeck Bridge is reached. From thence to the Low Wood Hotel is 2 m. Here the upper reach of the lake is seen as a noble expanded sheet of water, with Conis- ton Old Man, Langdale Pikes, and Bowfell in the background. AMBLESIDE $ (1G03), picturesque¬ ly situated under Wansfell and on the slope of a hill above the valley of the Rothay. The approach from Water- head is particularly fine. A grand amphitheatre of mountains opens out, and the woods of Rydal give great richness to the scenery. Fairfield is directly in front, Scandale Fell and Wansfell on the rt., and Loughrigg on the 1. The central situation of Ambleside is convenient for making short tours. The lodging-houses are good and reasonable, and much in request during the season. The Church is modern Gothic, with a lofty but heavy spire. There is a memorial window to Wordsworth. The principal residences near Amble¬ side are Scale How (Benson Harrison, Esq.); Bellevue; The Knoll (the home of Miss Harriet Martineau); Loughrigg Brow; Croft Lodge, Clappersgate ; and Fox How (where Dr. Arnold lived). Ambleside was a Roman station. In Camden’s ‘ Britannia ’ there is a description of a fortress, from which urns, coins, and fragments of tessel¬ lated pavement and pottery have been dug up. lie calls it “ the 42 J Route 5 .—Amble side—L o ughrigg . carcase, as it were, of an ancient city, with great ruins of walls, and of buildings without the walls, still remaining scattered about.” The traces are now very slight, though noticed by Thoresby in 1G9-1. Ambleside commands no view of Windermere, but the mountain scenery is strikingly fine. In front of the town is Loughrigg, a pic¬ turesque although not a very ele¬ vated ridge, encompassed halfway up by a most agreeable Terrace Walk; on the rt. are Fairfield and Nab Scar, and behind the town is Wansfell, which should be ascended for its views of Windermere, Coniston, Rydal, Grasmere, and Morecambe Bay. Wordsworth thus apostrophises the mountain as seen from Rydal Mount:—• “Wansfell! this household has a favoured lot, Living with liberty on thee to gaze, To watch while morn first crowns thee with her rays, Or when along thy breast serenely float Evening’s angelic clouds. Yet ne’er a note Hath sounded (shame upon the bard) thy praise; For all that thou, as if from heaven, hast brought Of glory lavished on our quiet days. Bountiful son of earth! When we are gone From every object dear to mortal sight, As soon we shall be, may these words attest How oft, to elevate our spirits, shone Thy visionary majesties of light,— How in thy pensive glooms our hearts found rest.” Wansfell may be ascended by Stock Gill Lane above Ambleside, or from Low-Wood, by a charming walk of 3 m. Stock Gill Force, the chief water¬ fall of Ambleside, flows through a precipitous ravine directly behind the town. Its height from the spot whence the water first commences its descent to the bottom of the fall is 160 ft. ; but it is broken into a number of small falls, the longest of which does not exceed 30 ft. The ravine is picturesquely wooded. The volume of water is never very great. Ponies and donkeys may be hired in the town for visiting the fall, and the path is practicable almost to the summit. The walks near Ambleside are numerous and of great beauty. One through the Rothay Valley to Rydal should not be omitted. It passes on the rt. Fox How, the residence of the late Dr. Arnold, the head master of Rugby School and Professor of Modern History in the University of Oxford. The view from it is very fine, looking over the Rydal Valley upon Fairfield, the woods of Rydal Park, and down upon Rothay. Below Fox How to the 1. is Fox Gill, a pretty residence situate under the wooded height of Loughrigg. Passing over Pelter Bridge, the high road to Ambleside is entered. Loughrigg. To ascend this moun¬ tain ridge, which forms the W. boundary of the Rothay valley, cross the river Rothay by the foot-bridge, to which a path to the 1. leads about J m. from Ambleside on the Rydal road. In front will be seen Lough¬ rigg Brow, a conspicuous mansion, situated on the E. slope of Loughrigg. The road to the summit of the low range, which extends from the village of Clappersgate to Rydal and Gras¬ mere Lakes, passes this house and ascends the hill by zigzag paths. The highest point of the Fell is indicated by a cairn or “ man,” but there are numerous points of view of equal, if not greater, beauty than the one from the actual summit. The view of Langdale looking over Loughrigg Tarn should be particularly noticed, and it would be desirable to follow the ridge until it dips into Rydal and Grasmere Lakes. There is no difficulty in passing from one extre¬ mity of Loughrigg to the other, the top consisting of a series of grassy undulations, broken only by a few craggy eminences. “ This beautiful piece of upland might seem a plat- 43 Route 5.— Louglmgg—Rydal Mount. form—if such a phrase did not belie its waving, rock-ribbed, and pinna¬ cled surface—built by nature to en¬ able her true lovers to enjoy, in quick succession, the most splendid variety she can exhibit. On one side, from the gently-ascending path, bordered by scanty heather, you embrace the broader portion of Windermere, spreading out its arms as if to em¬ brace the low and lovely hills that enfold it—a view without an angle or a contrast—a scene of perfect har¬ mony and peace. Ascend a lofty slab of rock, not many paces onward, and you have lying before you the delicious Yale of Rothay, a stream gliding through the greenest mea¬ dows, with Fairfield beyond, ex¬ panding its huge arms as of a giant’s chair. Wind your way through two small vales, each having its own oval basin, and from another height you may look down on the still mirror of Rydalmere, with its small central island, the nest of herons; and fol¬ lowing the valley to Grasmere with its low white church-tower, beyond the figured crest of Helm Crag, be¬ hold the vast triangle of Skiddaw filling the distance; while midway, just rising above green mountains, you may see the topmost rind of Helvellyn, curved in air, with one black descent just indicated. Pass from thence to the highest point of all this region, and look down be¬ yond the calm round tarn of Lough- rigg, into a magnificent chaos,—the Langdale vales with the ribbed pike of Scaw Fell beyond them, and in the midst those Pikes, which, yielding to many of the surrounding hills in height, surpass them all in form.”— Mr. Justice TcilfourcVs ‘ Vacation Hambies' Rydal; 1^ m. Rydal Hall (Stan¬ ley H. Le Fleming, Esq.). The two celebrated waterfalls in the grounds should be visited. Access to them is obtained from the gardener, who resides opposite the entrance-gate of the Hall. Above the Hall is a nar¬ row, thickly-wooded valley, through which a stream flows with a some¬ what rapid descent and forms a succession of cascades. The falls con¬ sist of an upper and a lower. The lower is the most admired. It is seen from a summer-house, through the window of which it appears very much to resemble a picture set in a frame. The water is within a few yards of the eye, which being rather above the level of the fall, a long per¬ spective view of the stream is ob¬ tained as it rushes from the higher ground along its rocky channel. The dark colour of the rock and the gloom from the overhanging wood contrast well with the sparkling brightness of the water, and pro¬ duce an effect not unlike that of a scene in a theatre. The upper fall has a greater volume of water, but does not possess the picturesque accessories of the lower. Rydal Mount was for nearly 30 years the residence of the poet Words¬ worth. The gate is a little above the entrance to Rydal Hall on the 1. The house is a very simple and un¬ pretending edifice. The view from the grassy mound in front is strikingly beautiful, commanding the whole of the Rothay valley with a portion of Windermere. The terrace-walk leads to the Fell under Nab Scar, and was much frequented by the poet. At its extremity is a summer¬ house, from which there is a charm¬ ing view of Rydal Water. Wordsworth died at Rydal Mount at noon, on 23rd April, 1850, having attained his 80th year on the 7th. “ A censer of the public incense was constantly swinging at the great poet's door ; he professed to feel an¬ noyance at the somewhat obtrusive homage of the world, but he never¬ theless quietly enjoyed it.” Many hollies in the ground were planted by his hands. The laurels are of great age, aud appropriately embellish the 44 Route 6 .—Shap to Ambleside. abode of one of the greatest of Eng¬ lish poets. “ Adieu Eydalian laurels ! that have grown And spread as if ye knew that days might come When ye would shelter in a happy home On this fair mount a poet of your own, One who ne’er ventured for a Delphic crown To sue the god; but haunting your green shade All seasons through, is humbly pleased to braid Ground flowers, beneath your guardianship selfsown.”— Wordsworth, 1833. Wordsworth seldom composed in the house, but during his rambles on the mountains and fells, and latterly in his grounds. It was his practice to dictate, not to write, his poetry. He was scarcely ever seen with a pen in his hand. A pedestrian would do well to make an excursion up the valley behind Rydal Hall as far as Rydal Head. There is an uninterrupted prospect to the foot of Fairfield, 3 m. Nothing can exceed the wild seclusion of this valley, and the “solemn stillness” which pervades it. It does not pos¬ sess a single human habitation ; the steep heights of Fairfield rise directly in front. “ Here,—if the solemn nightingale be mute, And the soft woodlark here did never chant Her vespers,—Nature fails not to provide Impulse and utterance. The whispering air Sends inspiration from the shadowy heights, And blind recesses of the caverned rocks; The little rills and waters numberless, Inaudible by daylight, blend their notes "With the loud streams; and often, at the hour A\ hen issue forth the first pale stars, is heard, Within the circuit of this fabric huge, One voice—the solitary raven, flying Athwart the concave of the dark blue dome.” A fine mountain-stream, from which are derived the Rydal waterfalls, runs through the valley. Rydal Water.—This lake, one of the gems of the district, should be seen from its W. bank. Opposite Glen Rothay is a rustic bridge, which crosses the Rothay, and viewed from which the river scenery is very lovely. A path leads through a farmyard to the opposite shore of the lake, from which the woods of Rydal Park are seen to great advantage, as well as the wooded crags of Nab Scar, at the foot of which opposite the centre of the lake and by the roadside stands Nab Cottage, where Hartley Coleridge lived. It is now a lodging-house. The views from this side of the lake much exceed those from the other. “ Here you see the mountains in mag¬ nificent composition, and craggy coppices with intervening green fields shelving down to the green margin. Rydal is a small lake, not much more than a mile round, and of a very peculiar character. It has a reedy inlet and outlet, and the angler thinks of pike when he looks upon such harbours. The heronry on the high pine-trees of the island connects the scene with the ancient park of Rydal, whose oak woods, although thinned and decayed, still preserve the majestic and venerable character of antiquity and baronial state. ”—Professor Wilson. ROUTE 6. SHAP TO AMBLESIDE, BY HAWES- WATER AND MARDALE GREEN— on foot, 22 m. Shap, $ being a stat. on the main line of the L. N. W. Rly., is easily reached from Penrith, or the S. The following route is only suited to pedestrians, as there is no means of going beyond Mardale Green on wheels. To get there, carriages must go by way of Bampton, 12 m. altogether. Walkers may save 2| m. of this. 45 Houte 6.—$hap Abbey—Mar dale Green. 1 m. N. from the stat. turn 1. at a signpost along the Bampton road for 300 yds. Beyond a building rt. take a path on the same side, and steer W.N.W. [For Shap Abbey, f m. distant, the direction is due W. Little of it remains but a sq. tower. It lies just across the R. Lowther and was I founded in 1150. From here those who have already seen the view up Haweswater from the foot may reach Mardale by way of Swindale, a pleasant walk of about 2 hrs. On reaching a cartroad f m. S.W. of the Abbey a farm (Tailbert) is seen rt.; but before reaching it a branch road 1. must be taken, which soon descends to Swindale Ch. Here the beck is crossed by stepping-stones, and then the main road followed up the valley for f m. After a sharp turn rt. the original direction is resumed till a track is found on the rt. bank of a beck leading rapidly down. On reaching a road turn 1. up the dale to the Dun Bull Inn .] In J m. the road, which has made a large circuit, is crossed, and the same direction maintained for fully 1 m. beyond it to Rosgill, on the rt. bank of the Lowther. After crossing the latter, the path winds rt. to round the opposing hill, on the far side of which, 1 m. from the crossing, the stream is reached which descends from Haweswater. By following this up for J m. a bridge is found, across which a cart track leads by Thorn- thwaite Hall into the main road from Bampton, about 1 m. below the foot of the lake. The view now opens out and improves at every step, the road closely following the shore of Haweswater, the least known, and perhaps, with the exception of Ennerdale, the least visited of all the lakes. Distance from Penrith, 9 m.; Lowther, 2 m. This lake, which has been called a lesser Ullswater, is the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, and is 2| m. long and £ m. broad. There is a boat kept, the use of which may be obtained on application to the steward at Lowther Castle; the boatman re¬ sides near the lake. The eastern bank is clothed with wood (Naddle Forest) of no great size, but giving softness ;o the scenery. The mountain group at the head of the lake is strikingly ine ; Harter Fell, High Street, Kidsty Pike, towering over it in great gran¬ deur. The Inn is now fairly good, but the want of communication deters tourists from taking more than a hasty view of this lake, although the glens and passes of the upper part of the valley are well worthy of explora¬ tion. Trout are found in the lake; but permission to fish it must be obtained from the steward of tho Earl of Lonsdale. 9Jm. Mardale Green. $ [The pedes¬ trian may proceed to Staveley, a stat. on the Windermere rly., by Nan Bield Axle, one of the passes above Mardale. There is another Pass (Gatesgarth) by Long Sleddale to Kendal, 14 m.; the road turns off to the 1. about 1 m. from Mardale Green. “ This valley is not one of the grandest character ; but it has the advantage of being thoroughly free from the intrusion of art. There is nothing to mar its harmony; and while passing along the narrow lanes enclosed by thickly-lichened walls, tufted with wild-flowers, the eye rests on the brilliant green of the meadows, the sparkling purity of the stream, or the autumnal tints of the copses, we acknowledge it to be a genuine and lovely specimen of natural scenery. The upper portion of the dale is bleak and sterile, but the scenery improves as the descent is made.’'— Wordsworth. It is the “ Long Whindale ” of “ Robert Els- mere.” The geologist will examine with interest a narrow band of lime¬ stone which crosses this valley, the shales of which abound with Lower Silurian fossils. It will be found near the junction of 2 small mountain streams, which pass down the lateral Route 7.—Boioness to Coniston. 46 vale in which is situated the hamlet of Little London. The slate-quarries at Rangle Gill, near the head of the dale, produce a fine blue slate, and are worth a visit. High Street, 2633 ft., over which the Roman road to Penrith ran, portions of which may yet be traced along its summit, may he reached from Mardale Head, taking the path to Small Water, lying directly under a steep spur of High Street; a steep and rugged walk, hut amply rewarded by the view from the summit. The top is an extensive tab! e- land. On one side is Troutbeck ; on the other the Penrith plains. The descent into Troutbeck abounds in charming prospects. A guide for this route would be of service.] To enter the valley of Kentmere, through which there is a road to Stavely, proceed over the fine pass of Nan Bield. 1 m. the cart track turns off 1. to Sleddale. Continue on the same bank of the main stream to its issue from (1484 ft.) the little tarn Small Water, which is passed on the 1., and is only 4 m. from the top of the pass. Before reaching it, however, the path sweeps suddenly to the 1. Here strangers not unfre- quently keep straight on, and begin an involuntary ascent of High Street. At the summit of the pass (2050 ft.) there is a fine view, the crags of Ill Bell being a great feature of it. At the Chapel, about 34 m. further on, the road widens, and leads direct to Stavely. Kentmere Hall, an ancient building with a square tower, the birthplace of Bernard Gilpin (born 1517), the Apostle of the North, is passed a little distance to the rt. For Ambleside, the most impressive way of finishing the walk is by way of the Garbourn Pass, wdiich may be reached by descending to Kentmere village, but more quickly, for a good walker, by descending to the foot of the reservoir and from close under Rainsbarrow Crag, following to its source one of the streams just S. of it. It is boggy, but the ridge is soon reached, and by keeping the same direction the Garbourn road is struck. The views over Windermere are now magnificent. Keeping always to the rt. across the beck by the bridge near the ch. of Troutbeck, and mounting 1., follow the road round the hill, without any material rise or fall for more than 1 m., w 7 hen there a choice of descending to Low Wood, or con¬ tinuing on the high ground through a w r ood to AMBLESIDE (Rte. 5). ROUTE 7. BOWNESS ' (OR AMBLESIDE) TO CONISTON, BY HAWKSHEAD.—9 ill. Public coaches leave Bowmess about 10 a.m. (single fare 4s., return 6s.). 1 m. the Ferry, wdiere the coach is transferred bodily, wdth its horses, to the other side. There is a fine view both up and dowm the lake, and the spot is very charming in itself. The Ferry Hotel is an excellent house. The road now mounts the opposite hill and circles round to 2£ m. Ear Sawrey, and drops to Near Sawrey, | m. beyond, Es- thwaite Water is in full view r , wdth Hawkshead at the upper end. Esthwaite Water, 1| m. in length and § m. in breadth. There is a good carriage-road round the lake from HawLshead by Esthw r aite Hall (T. M. Sandys, Esq.), and by the lodge on the rt., a little beyond which the road skirts the banks of the lake. Two promontories nearly divide the lake ; the best view of it is from a promontory on the W. side looking See Map Z. MAP 1. fjggggg rv * Bovex^est 'Mfm-eB. LoK . w J^g rv Hotel C^X i fllberthn fibirne *<2h-' A*! 4#Wt^g petrel iff ct du jlaj-riffff, fmWM >a= ^ g# ‘,. ? 02 E>owiie ss Brant ^ J „ j-wj 0 ]lS x-I Ff> ■ f r am « &13 Qliou&Ban/dSr >• flaiiS L> K| HoTrn \ythwaitefc \ Silver h ( >']foim At w«»* rSSSa l lake®* Holm , U». 1 =1 +t+f r // Mmgre’rjM w .« j&m F»v --1 - 7 / JXnltie ■ m$m± ■i Park Lottict I 2 ENGLISH MILES J- 1 Stanfords GeoglEstab?- IoblIoil.' JohnMarra-v^bemaxle Street. Route 7.— Hawhshead—Hawhshead Hall. 47 N. Its chief affluent rises on Yew- dale Fells, and its effluent is Cunsey Beck, which flows into Windermere. On the rt. side a good view is obtained of the whole lake and of Hawkshead. The scenery is purely pastoral. Plantations and fields alternately diversify the shores, white farmhouses are scattered over the slopes, and give to its banks a character of peace and rural seclusion. The lake abounds in trout, perch, and pike. The road follows the shore closely, and round¬ ing the little pool called Priest Pot, enters 5| m. Hawkshead. $ IFi 'om Ambleside .—Instead of the direct road to Coniston, the Hawks¬ head road may be taken, and that town and Esthwaite Water first visited. The Hawkshead road turns off to the 1. from the Coniston road, 2| m. from Ambleside. The views, shortly after the Hawkshead road is entered, are very striking. Step on to the fell on 1. of the road for a distant view of Am¬ bleside, and of Windermere with its wooded promontories below. “ Here let the tourist pause, and admire the prospect opening out before him, of the lake, of the quiet picturesque town of Ambleside, and the magni¬ ficent panorama of mountains that encircle the whole ; if he is fortunate enough to have a fine day, with a cloudless sky, he will acknowledge that English mountain-scenery, if not the grandest, is among the most beautiful in Europe.”— Maclcciy. 3| m. Blelham Tarn is passed on the 1., and 5 m. Hawkshead Hall (see below) by the roadside rt., whence it is ^ m. to the church and Inn.] 5| m. Hawkshead has a very antique aspect. In old documents it is called Hawkset and Hawkside, which repre¬ sent the present local pronunciation. The cli., perched on a rocky eminence, is mentioned as an old foundation in 1200, but the present building pre¬ serves little of the original edifice, and is perhaps as late as the 15th cent. Two curious jamb-stones in the aisle are perhaps of 13th cent. The ch. was restored in 1873. The parish register describes a terrific storm in 168G ; payments to a “ dogwhipper,” a molecatcher, &c., and for “ moss to keep the wet out of the church.” The ch.-yard commands a pleasing view of the vale. There is an endowed grammar-school, where Wordsworth received his early educa¬ tion, together with his brother, Dr. Wordsworth, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge. It was founded by Edwyn Sandys, Archbishop of York, in 1588. He bequeathed his library (chiefly theological) to the school, where it still exists. The tomb of his father and mother (1578) is the oldest in the ch., and stand's on the N. side of the altar. He belonged to an ancient family whose descendants still reside in the neighbourhood. He was the friend of Jewell, Hooker, and Cranmer, and suffered imprisonment for 7 months in the Tower of London, for his opinions. He afterwards fled to the Continent, and lived for some time in exile. On his return to England, he took part in the translation of the Bible, and rose successively to the sees of Worcester, London, and York (1577-1588). The soil of the Vale of Hawkshead is fertile; but the cultivation of coppice-wood has been introduced as the most profitable use to which the land can be applied. A plantation is divided into 20 portions, one of which is cut every year. Much of the wood is used in the manufacture of bobbins, and charcoal is largely produced. G m. Hawkshead Hall, now a farm¬ house, was the property of the monas¬ tery of Furness; the mullioned win¬ dows over the gateway belonged to the court room. Here the Coniston road turns off 1, 48 Houte 8 .—Ambleside to Collision. [7 m. At a chapel onthert. pedes¬ trians will do well to take a lane to the rt., which in 300 yds. crosses the Coniston and Ambleside road, and continues on the opposite side to (1J m.) Tarn Hows, an admirable point of view, for which see Rte. 8 .] 7J m. High Cross, where the de¬ scent begins to 9 m. CONISTON (see Rte. 8 ). ROUTE 8. AMBLESIDE TO CONISTON AND THE VALLEY OF THE DUDDON. Conveyances .—During the season public brakes leave Ambleside daily after breakfast, going by Barn Gates, allowing a stay of 3 or 4 hours at Coniston (7 5 m.), and returning by Oxenfell in time for the tables d'hote at Ambleside. The steep ascent to the little Inn at Barn Gates (3 m.) offers fine dis¬ tant views of Helvellyn and the High Street range. Hawkshead and Es- thwaite Water come into sight before the summit is reached at High Cross (about 600 ft.) [About | m. short of this the pedestrian should on no ac¬ count omit to diverge by a lane which mounts to the right between stone walls. In this way he will secure the view down Coniston Water from Tam Hows (justly praised by De Quincey), and reach Coniston after a charming walk of 3 m.] The descent to Coniston lies through rich woodland scenery, catch¬ ing beautiful glimpses of the lake. The route by Oxenfell is usually chosen for the return to Ambleside. The views over the lake are admir¬ able, and the descent into Little Langdale charmingly varied. When the road drops to within 300 yds. of the Brathay, that river may be crossed by a steep road on the 1 ., and the delightful little waterfall called Col- with Force visited. Seldom is a digression of 20 min. better worth the making. 1 m. below this the coach crosses the Brathay at Skel- with Bridge, where there is a small but comfortable Inn, whence it is 2§ m. to Ambleside. The road to Coniston is exceed¬ ingly steep on both sides of the pass, and ascends to a very considerable height. The views on the ascent from Ambleside over the upper end of Windermere and towards Helvellyn and Langdale Pikes, are magnificent, perhaps finer than can be seen from any other coach-road in the Lakes. From a hillock on the N., just at the summit, the view is still more ex¬ tensive. The latter part of the de¬ scent to Coniston is through the woods of V. Marshall, Esq. Another route, although there is no public con¬ veyance, is by the road through Skel- with and Yewdale, 10 m. Few drives present more striking scenery. From the top of the hill, 1 m. from Skelwith Bridge, the panoramic view to the rt. is one of the finest in the country ; and Yewdale, 2 m. beyond, with its bold and wooded crags, is very striking. At High Yewdale the yews have been clipped into fanciful shapes. The road to Coniston then passes through a shady lane below Yewdale Crags to Church Coniston. CONISTON. $ The lake lies parallel to, and about 5 m. W. of, Winder- mere, and is 6 m. long and § m. broad. It is not so very many years since Dr. Gibson, the genial poet of Conis¬ ton, sang: “ And such are some attractions which in Coniston we find; But Coniston, dear Coniston, thy best re¬ mains behind; For never have I elsewhere found, although I’ve wandered far, A dinner like thy mutton-chops preceded by thy char.” Moute 8 .—Coniston Old Man—Goads Water. 49 Char, however, though formerly plentiful, are now rarely taken. The scenery of its banks is generally soft and pleasing, hut at its northern ex¬ tremity it is more imposing. A steam gondola plies 2 or 3 times a day to the S. end and back in about 1J hour, and may he engaged for private excursions at certain hours. The lake should, however, also be seen from the road on the E. side, which passes Tent Lodge, where Tennyson once lived, and Brant- wood, the home of Ruskin. The river Crake flows out of Coniston Water at Nibthwaite. The lake is here seen to great advantage, its out¬ line being broken by promontories, while the Yewdale Crags and the grand and finely-shaped mountain of Coniston Old Man form a noble termination to the prospect. The road on the W. side of the lake will be felt to be rather disap¬ pointing : it is between woods, and at no point commands a perfect view; the Old Man and Wetherlam are too near for effect. The most beautiful point of the road round the lake is that between the Lake Bank Hotel at the foot, and Sunny Bank on the W. Coniston Old Man ( i.e. Allt Maen or “ Steep Rock,” Celtic, 2G33 ft.). The ascent will occupy li hr. ; charge for ponv, 5s. The geological features of the mountain are in¬ teresting. From Coniston village to the top of the mountain the strata are shown in fine open sections. At the base is a bed of transition limestone; granite and felspar are met with in the ascent, but the mass of the moun¬ tain is composed of blue slate, of which there are several quarries. It matters little how the ascent be begun. Some follow the Walney Scar road for nearly 1 m., and then a track to the rt. leading up the shoulder. Many take the pony path on the left bank of the stream, which flows from Levers Water in the great recess between Wetherlam and the Old Man. On reaching the large [English Lakes.'] copper works, which, interesting in themselves, somewhat deface a fine situation, the slate-quarries near Low Water are clearly seen above. At these quarries all the usual routes con - verge, and after a few minutes of steep ascent the summit is reached. The panorama from the summit of the Old Man embraces the estuaries of the Kent, Leven, and Duddon, a long line of coast, the Isle of Man, Black Combe, Scafell, and Bowfell. Coniston Lake is seen for its whole length, together with Esthwaite Water and part of Windermere. Snowdon may also be seen on a clear day. This ascent is made at the cost of so little labour, and there are so many tempting ways of continuing the walk, that few will be inclined to hurry back to Coniston. The moun¬ tain range of Wetherlam, wdiich sweeps round to the N. of the Old Man, is well worth a visit for the grand and varied prospects it affords. From Wetherlam the return may be made to Coniston through Til- berthwaite and Yewdale. Gates, or Goat’s Water, is seen by walking a few yards W. from the summit of the Old Man. It has an oval form, and is about J m. in cir¬ cumference. Lying at the foot of the grand precipice, called Dow or Doe Crag, it possesses a wfild, savage, almost terrific character. The descent from the col to the head of the Tarn is quite practicable and worth making. A sort of rough track follows the E. shore, and soon falls into the Walney Scar road. Very charming walks may be taken from Coniston into Yewdale 2 m., to Grisedale 3 m., and round the bay at the upper end of the lake to the Hawkshead road and the hill above. The road to Yewdale turns to the rt. opposite the ch., and the shady lane by the side of Yew r dale Beck is fol¬ lowed for about 2 m., wfith Yewdale Crags on the 1. On reaching High I Yewdale the road to the rt. leads to E 50 Boute 8 .—Valley of the Duddon — Uljphd. Grasmere, and that to the 1. through Tilberthwaite to Langdale. At this point the scenery is highly pictur¬ esque. The road to the secluded vale of Tilberthwaite may be followed for a short distance, the ascent gradually opening views of Coniston and the valley, which are well worth the trouble of a short ascent. The little ravine of Tilberthwaite Gill soon opens on the 1. and should he en¬ tered. A series of little bridges renders this romantic passage per¬ fectly easy. Grisedale lies between Coniston Lake and Windermere. It is reached by a road to the 1. from the E. side of the lake. The valley is picturesque without possessing any very striking features. It con¬ tains some very charming woodland scenery. The Valley of the Duddon may be reached from Coniston by three different routes—1. from Broughton, taking the rly. to that place ; 2. over Walney Scar, practicable for ponies ; 3. through Yewdale, taking the road to the 1. from High Yewdale to Fell- foot, from whence the ascent of Wrynose commences; this route is practicable for cars, hut is very steep and rough. The Duddon rises on Wrynose, in the vicinity of the Three Shire Stones, runs 12 m. as a stream to Broughton, begins there to expand into an estu¬ ary, and proceeds 9 m. further, with a mean width of about 2J m., to the sea. Its highest reach runs through the narrow vale called the Vale of the Duddon to Seathwaite; its cen¬ tral reach traverses a wider vale called the Plain of Dunnerdale; its next reach, as far as Broughton, is in the Vale of Ulpha, and its estuary comprises about 13,000 acres of silty deposit, quite capable of being con¬ verted, by warping, into a tract of fertile land. The Duddon, above the tidal flow, abounds in trout and salmon. The Rail may be taken to Broughton (see Rte. I), where a conveyance must be hired for the excursion up the Duddon Valley and back, which may be accomplished in 5 or 6 hrs. Leaving the Bootle road at Duddon Bridge, the road turns to the rt., and leads between high hedges to the Ulpha Fells. The lower course of the river Duddon is here hidden by the woods of Duddon Grove (W. M. Rawlinson, Esq.) on the 1., a neat mansion beautifully situated on the rt. bank of the stream. More conspicuous than the mansion is a small temple of white freestone, the entablature supported by plain columns with Corinthian capitals; the interior is decorated with stained glass. Duddon Grove may be reached by entering a wooded lane to the 1. (1§ m. from Duddon Bridge), first passing through a farmyard. From the bridge, at the end of the lane, the river scenery is very beautiful, and will well repay a short detour. A little beyond Duddon Grove, Ulpha Fell is reached, where the scenery becomes wilder and more open. Corney, Stainton, and Birker Fells, all are conspicuous objects in the distance; hut, ‘‘grand as the wild fells are when purpled with autumnal splen¬ dour, the speciality, the very genius of this valley's charm, is the varied loveliness of its stream. Every turn in it brings a new picture to the eye.”— Maclcay. Ulpha, or Ulpha Kirk (4 m. from Duddon Bridge, from Broughton), a small hamlet; the Inn affords but humble accommodation. The ch.- yard is the subject of one of Words¬ worth’s fine sonnets on the river Duddon. “ How sweet were leisure ! could it yield no more Than ’mid that wave-washed churchyard to recline, From pastoral graves extracting thoughts divine, Or there to pace and mark the summits hoar Of distant moonlit mountains faintly shine, Soothed by the unseen river’s gentle roar.” Houle 8 .- The rocks here are curiously water- worn ; being scooped by the eddies into large holes called “pots.” A little beyond Ulplia is Mill Bridge, where the river flows over mossy rocks. From this point the scenery progressively rises in interest, Hard- knot, Bowfell, and Scafell grandly towering in the distance. At Newfield in Seathwaite are the “ Stepping Stones,” the subject of Wordsworth's Sonnets X. and XI. Here is undoubtedly the finest scenery of the Duddon ; the valley retaining much of its cultivated character, and the mountains being still sufficiently distant to preserve their atmospheric tints. For some distance the bed of the river is strewn with masses of rock, which have fallen from the crags above. The river here receives the stream which flows from Sea¬ thwaite Tarn. Looking up the gorge, through which the Duddon makes its way into Dunnerdale, flanked on the right by the perpendicular rock called the Pen, and on the opposite side by Wallabarrow Crag, the scene is one that will not readily be for¬ gotten. The impetuous course of the river in flood, combined with the character of its banks, has given rise to many curious phenomena—deep quiet pools of emerald-green water, and rocks fashioned into most fan¬ tastic shapes. “From this deep chasm, where quivering sunbeams play Upon its loftiest crags, mine eyes behold A gloomy niche, capacious, blank, and cold; A concave free from shrubs and mosses gray; In semblance fresh, as if, with dire affray, Some statue, placed amid these regions old For tutelary service, thence had rolled, Startling the flight of timid Yesterday.” The chief interest of the Duddon Valley commences at Hall Dunner¬ dale Bridge : cross it, go up the bank of the Duddon as far as the “ step¬ ping stones” at Newfield, cross the stream by them, and resume your car, which has proceeded by the road. —Newfield. 51 There is a reach of the Duddon in this part of its course, which once seen can never be effaced from the memory. The whole course of the river from Dunnerdale Bridge, for 4 m., is one continuous series of pic¬ tures, a combination of rock, wood, and water seldom equalled. Birks Bridge is a few yards off the high¬ way, and the view from it should not be lost; but it is necessary to order the driver of your car to “ pull up ” when you are near it, or you will be driven past a most interesting point at a full trot, and so miss the most perfect picture of its kind anywhere to be seen. Below Dunnerdale the crags cease, and above Birks the wood is more scanty ; the heights also recede further from the stream. There is a small Ch. at Newfield. $ In the ch.-yard is a slab supported by two upright stones, marking the grave of the Rev. Robert Walker, who died 25 June, 1802, aged 93,—a clergy¬ man whose character has been thought worthy of a sonnet, and of an elaborate panegyric in prose, by Wordsworth. His character is also drawn in the ‘ Excursion ’— “ him the wonderful, Our simple shepherds, speaking from their heart, Deservedly have styled.”—Book vii. He held the curacy of Seathwaite for G7 years. He was a simple, zealous, and laborious pastor. The income of his living when he took it was 51. and, though afterwards increased, at no time exceeded 50 1. He was literally “ passing rich on 40/. a year ” or less, brought up eight children, and died worth 2000/. Close to the ch. is the parsonage, a small cottage covered with climbing roses, in which Walker lived. His employments were multifarious ; he was the parish priest, schoolmaster, and doctor of the dis¬ trict ; he made wills and prepared and engrossed deeds, was the amanu¬ ensis of his uneducated parishioners, sold home-brewed beer, cultivated his glebe with his own hands, spun wool, e 2 52 Bontc 8 .—Cockley Beck. made his own clothing, and worked for wages at haymaking and sheep- shearing. In these remote counties, however, such characters were, during the last cent., much more common than Wordsworth supposed. The little chapel is scarcely larger than a labourer’s cottage. Walker’s pew is shown, lined with cloth woven by himself. Cockley Beck, 5 m. fromNewfield, is nearly at the extremity of the valley of the Duddon. The scenery between Cockley Beck and Wrynose is dreary; the river is merely a brawling mountain-stream, and the valley a scene of almost unmitigated desolation, with Grey Friars on the rt., and Harter Fell and Hardknot on the 1. At Cockley Beck is a solitary farmhouse, where plain food and even a bed may he obtained. It is “ the cottage rude and gray,” of Words¬ worth's sonnet, though now white¬ washed. The sycamores remain inter¬ mixed with firs. Here one road turns to the rt. over Wrynose into Langdale, and the other to the 1. over Hardknot into Eskdale. To see, however, the best part of the Duddon scenery in the quickest way, the Walney Scar rte. should be taken. Of this pass Professor Wilson says, “ there are few grander walks in the North of England.” Quitting Coniston by the By. Stat., the path gradually ascends the fell, keeping the Old Man close on the rt. hand. After about 2 m., the deep recess in which Goats Water lies unseen opens rt., and the stream (Torver Beck) which issues from it must be crossed. The slight gap in the ridge in front (1 m. due W.) is the Pass. The various quarry tracks about here are confusing to strangers, and for their benefit the hillside has been adorned with a smart “indi¬ cator.” The view is admirable, com¬ prising the whole of the W. range of fells, beginning with the Grassmoor group (rt.) and ending with Black Combe (1.). To the rt. of Harter Fell, Scafell and the Pike stand out nobly, with the deep gap of Mickle- dore between them. The descent, especially on nearing the stepping- stones (see Wordsworth’s Sonnet), which cross the Duddon, is very lovely. The view of Dunnerdale, from Walney Scar, Wordsworth also says, “ towards the close of Septem¬ ber, when the aftergrass of the meadow is still of a fresh green, with the leaves of the trees faded, but per¬ haps none fallen, is truly enchanting. Russet and craggy hills of bold and varied outline surround the level valley, which is besprinkled with grey rocks, plumed with birch-trees. A few homesteads are interspersed, peeping out from among the rocks like hermitages, where sites for houses have been chosen for the benefit of sunshine as well as shelter.” [Ardent admirers of the poet of the Duddon may prefer the less artistic course of tracing the Sonnets in their order, that is from the source of the stream downwards. To do this they have only to proceed either from Coniston, through Yewdale, or from Ambleside, through Little Langdale, to Fell Foot, 5 m., from whence they will commence the ascent of Wrynose Pass. Near its summit are the 3 shire stones, marking the junction of the 3 counties of Lancashire, West¬ morland, and Cumberland. Imme¬ diately after passing these, on turning to the 1. a little out of the road, they ! will come upon the source of the Duddon in a bed of green moss. “ To dignify the spot that gives thee birth, No sign of hoar Antiquity’s esteem Appears, and none of modern Fortune’s i care; Yet thou thyself hast round thee shed a gleam Of brilliant moss, instinct with freshness rare, Prompt offering to thy foster mother Earth ! ”—Sonnet III. After a descent of 1^ m. the tourist will reach Cockley Beck. From Cockley Beck the course of the river Route 9 .—Goniston may be followed to Duddon Bridge ; and no difficulty will be found in identifying the several spots de¬ scribed by the poet.] ROUTE 9. CONISTON TO WASDALE HEAD—1. BY WALNEY SCAR AND BURN- MOOR ; 2. BY Tl LB ERTH WAITE AND COCKLEY BECK— ON FOOT, IS m. Pedestrians will fmd this a long but very enjoyable walk. The only way of reaching Wasdale on wheels is to take the ry. by Foxfield to Drigg (30 m.), and thence drive 12 m. 1. By Walney Scar and Boot. If necessary, ponies can be taken over this pass (see Rte. 8). On reaching the Duddon, it must be crossed by the Stepping Stones. A track on the other side leads up by a steep romantic little dell, containing a waterfall. The track continues to a barn, beyond which is a farm called Grass Gars (1J m. from the Duddon). Here the stream is crossed, and the open fell is reached. The path is over boggy ground, and not easy to pick out; but Harter Fell on the rt. is a capital landmark, and by aiming for the depression 1. of it and due N.W. from Grass Gars, the highest point is easily reached in 1J m. more. The path is now well marked, and descends into Eskdale beside a stream for nearly | m. Here tend to the 1., and, descending gradually, join a fairly good road which crosses the Esk by a bridge 1 m. lower down and strikes into the to Wasdale Head. 53 principal road of the valley. Cross this and continue straight on up the opposite hill by a path from the Woolpack Inn. This track has been recently “ blazed ” with white paint at intervals, and is fully 1 m. shorter than the ordinary round by way of Boot (If the latter route be preferred on account of mist, see Rte. 3). | m. from the Woolpack Eel Tarn is reached, and hence the general course is obvious enough. The gap between Scafell and the Screes lies straight in front, nearly due N.; but it requires some management to avoid the very boggy ground on the 1. without making too many ups and downs. 1J m. from Eel Tarn there is a foot-bridge across the Whillan Beck, which, ^ m. higher up, issues from Burnmoor Tarn. Here the or¬ dinary track from Boot is entered, and after about 1 m. of gentle ascent the highest point is reached, which is 2 m. from Wasdale Head Inn. On the descent there is a point just above a plantation which offers a very pleasing view down Wastwater, 2. ByTilberthwaite, CockleyBeck, and Boot (19 m.). The road to Tilberthwaite turns out of Coniston opposite the church, and enters (2 m.) the narrow glen between Yewdale and Ivy or Raven Crags. About 1 m. farther Tilberthwaite Gill is passed 1., a highly curious and romantic little ravine well worth exploring, though the approach is marred by the slate quarries on the S. side. 3 m. High Tilberthwaite farm, where a rough road crosses the Fell 1., and, descending into Little Lang- dale, crosses the stream at Fell Foot (4J m.) [By the low pass in front Dungeon Gill may be reached from this point in a walk of 2J m.—7 m. from Coniston—by way of Blea Tarn.] After a steep climb to Wrynose Gap (6 m.), a dull descent follows to 54 Route 10 .—Ambleside to Great and Little Langdale. 8 m. Cockley Beck, a cottage at which simple refreshments may he had. This route has been given in the reverse direction from Boot to Wry- nose under Rte. 3; it is therefore only necessary to indicate one or two points where mistakes are sometimes made. On resuming the walk from Cockley Beck, strangers instead of proceeding W. are sometimes misled by the valley of Mosedale, which runs nearly N. with Scafell just visible at the end. fMosedale is a dreary, peaty trough, hut may be followed with advantage either when it is desired to see the beauties of upper Eskdale en route, or when a good mountaineer with plenty of daylight before him wishes to reach Wasdale Head by a quicker though more fatiguing route. In the former case the Esk Falls and some of the best scenery of Eskdale are seen at the cost of 2J m. extra walking, and the way is easily found by simply crossing over the watershed into the Esk valley and following it down ; but in the latter case some steering is required. As soon as Eskdale comes into view, it is seen to he cut into two valleys by a medial ridge (Birker Fell). The right course is just left of this ridge. Beyond it the Esk flows through a flat basin, the bed of an ancient lake, now a long stretch of peat. The river is now the best guide until, m. from Cockley Beck, the waterfall of Cam Spout is seen on the left. That stream descends from Mickledore 1300 ft. above, which is reached after 1 m. of steep and rough travelling. The descent, 2\ m., to Wasdale Head is long and rough. This route from Cockley Beck is a rigorous one, and it would he folly for any hut practised walkers to at¬ tempt it. The distance is 7 m. against 11 m. by way of Boot: hut there is 1000 ft. more of ascent.] The ascent of Hardknot Pass (91 m.) is easy from the E., and half-way down the other side the Roman camp will be found 100 yds. to the rt. After a slanting descent the Esk is crossed, 11 g m., and the Woolpach Inn seen rt. by the roadside. Here 1 m. may he saved by taking to a fair path up the fell behind the Inn as de¬ scribed in Rte. 3. In thick weather it may be better to proceed down the valley to Boot (12^ m.), and profit by a somewhat plainer path. In either case, after nearly 3 m., much of which is very boggy, Burnmoor Tarn is passed 1. (Rte. 3), and 1 m. beyond the traveller descends to (181 m.) Was- dale Head (Rte. 22). ROUTE 10. AMBLESIDE TO GREAT AND LITTLE LANGDALE— COACH, 19 111. The Langdales should be visited from Ambleside, an excursion to which an entire day should be de¬ voted, allowing an interval for rest ; the distance going by Little Lang¬ dale, and returning by Great Lang¬ dale and Grasmere, is 20 m. The road nearly to the head of Langdale is good, and the whole excursion can he made in a car. The crossing over the low ridge between the Langdales is the roughest part. This excursion may he made in either direction, that which exhibits Little Langdale first being perhaps the more artistic, on account of the striking view of the Pikes which it presents ; hut there is much loss of effect in driving down, 55 Route 10 .—Loughrigg instead of up, the larger valley, and as many visitors content themselves with the drive direct to Dungeon Gill, the route is here given in the latter direction. The road passes through the village of Clappersgate, and then turns sharply to the rt. to Langdale, keeping the Brathay river on the 1. Brathay Ch., with a tower some¬ what in the style of an Italian cam¬ panile, was erected by Mr. Redmayne, the well-known haberdasher of Bond Street. The Brathay here has the character of a brawling stream, but above is a sluggish pond. On the rt. the woods of Loughrigg skirt the roadside. The valley is characterised by soft beauty, with fine mountain masses in the distance. The valleys of Great and Little Langdale diverge and are separated by Lingmoor Fell. The road to Great Langdale mounts to the rt. about b m. below Skelwith Bridge, and passes 3 m. Loughrigg Tarn, a dull pond. A road then turns off rt. to Grasmere (2 m.), but the Langdale road de¬ scends a little into the main valley, skirting the small lake or tarn of Elterwater, near which are powder- mills, erected on a singularly pic¬ turesque spot, amidst fir plantations, on the bank of the Brathay, which is here again a fine mountain-stream. The scene behind the mills is quite in the style of Ruysdael—a foaming river rushing through a fir-clad ravine, with mountains in the back¬ ground. On the rt., and beyond, are the Thrang slate-quarries and the ch. of Langdale (5 m.), rebuilt by E. W. Wheatley Balme, Esq., of Loughrigg, at his own cost. Mean¬ while the Coniston group on the 1. is a fine feature in the landscape. Of late years an attempt has been made to revive the use of the old spipning r wheels and hand - looms. Tarn—Dungeon Gill. Owing to the efforts of Mr. Albert Fleming of Neaum Crag the divine spiral ” lamented by Mr. Ruskin in “ Fors Clairgera ” is once more pro¬ duced and converted into a real home- spun which, as “ Langdale linen,” already begins to have a reputation, and sells at 4s. a yd. The work is done by old women who were first taught in a cottage in this village (dated 1G92), where the process may be inspected and purchases made. The valley from this point contracts, and the scenery increases in grandeur as the Langdale Pikes are approached. The valley is now fairly level as far as 7 m. Neiv, and 8 m. Old, Dungeon Gill Inn, much frequented by lovers of seclusion and wild walking. The situ¬ ation is very central for strong walkers, who are not only at the foot of Bow- fell and the Scafell group, but within reach of Borrowdale, Grasmere, and the Coniston Fells. The stream which comes straight down the front of the hill, ^ m. short of Millbeck, is White Gill, where George and Sarah Green, whose death has been described with so much elaboration of style by De Quincey, lost their lives in a snow¬ storm About 4 m. from either Inn is the celebrated fall of Dungeon Gill. The fall is more striking from its position than from the volume of water or from its height. The chasm in the hill is reached by a path on one side of the ravine, and is entered by the aid of a ladder. The dark gorge into which the stream leaps gives it a peculiarly sombre character, which, if it were larger, would not be without sublimity. The chasm is spanned by a natural bridge of rock, which it is dangerous to persons of weak nerves to cross. Wordsworth made Dungeon Gill the scene of one of his Lyrical Ballads, the ‘ Idle Shepherd-boys,’ not, how¬ ever, one of the happiest of his effusions. The stream flows from the 5G Route 10 .—The Langdale Pikes—Plea Tarn. gorge which separates the Langdale Pikes. Stickle Tarn, several hundred feet above the Gill, is a lonely sheet of water, and famous for its trout. Pavey Ark rises abruptly from its brink. The Langdale Pikes, although in¬ ferior in elevation to many of the Cumberland mountains, command views of great beauty, especially one over the vale of Great Langdale, towards Windermere. The summits of the Pikes seem, even at a short distance, close to one another, but they are so far apart as to leave con¬ siderable gaps, not easy to traverse, between them. Pike o’ Stickle is the lowest, but the most regular and conical; the eastern one, called Har¬ rison Stickle, is more easy of ascent. The ravine on the E. side of the Pikes is called Mill gill, that on the W. Mickleden. Stickle Pike, as the former is also called, probably a corruption of Stikill, an old Norse name—commands a fine view of Skiddaw and of Bassenthwaite Lake ; Great Gable, Scafell Pikes, and Bowfell are also seen to the N., and Crinkle Crags, a continuation of Bow- fell, to the S. [Bowfell and Scafell may both be ascended from Langdale. Guides can be procured at the Dungeon Gill Hotel. The ascent of Bowfell is made by mounting a shoulder of the mountain, called the Band, then aim¬ ing at a depression in the skyline (S. of the peak) called Three Tarns, and lastly following the ridge rt. for 20 mins.; it can be accomplished in 2 hours. It would be impracticable to ride more than a small portion of the way, unless by taking a pony to the top of Rossett Gill or Eskhause. From the summit Windermere is the only large lake seen. It is essentially a view of mountains. Scafell Pike can be reached from the Dungeon Gill Hotel in 3| hours. The route is by Rossett Gill to the foot of Angle Tarn, from whence there are guide- stones all the way. A pony cannot be ridden to the summit. The last | m. is over large stones, and must be done on foot. The ascent is much longer than from Wasdale Head, but less steep. Wasdale Head, at the head of Wastwater, can also be reached from Langdale by way of Sprinkling Tarn, crossing Eskhause on to the Sty Hoad Pass. The charge for a guide to the top of Bowfell is 5s., to Scafell Pike 7s., a pony 7s. extra. To a tourist intending to ascend Scafell from Wasdale the ascent of Bowfell from Langdale would be superfluous, as the mountains are very close to each other, and the views from Scafell, from its superior eleva¬ tion, are, of course, grander and more extensive. Scafell should, however, be ascended from Langdale, if the time of the tourist should not admit of his proceeding to Wasdale.] ; A steep and somewhat rugged road leads from Langdale to Blea Tarn and Little Langdale. From the top of the hill on the 1. the road descends abruptly upon the valley, the scene of the 2nd book of Wordsworth's ‘ Excursion.’ The tarn is 2 m. from Millbeck by the road, but 1 m. may be saved if the hill on the 1. of the road is climbed, directly under which, on the opposite side, lie the valley and tarn. The seclusion of this vale is complete. There is still only a single house, “ one abode, no more ; ” but the surrounding features have somewhat changed since the poet described them. On the W. of the tarn a larch grove has grown up ; it is therefore no longer the treeless spot as described by Wordsworth :— “The small birds find in spring no thicket there To shroud them, only from the neighbouring vales The cuckoo straggling up to the hill-top Shouteth faint tidings of some happier place,” 57 Route 10 .—Rica Tarn—Skelwitli Force. The tarn is best seen from the W. side, with the larch wood as a fore¬ ground. The Langdale Pikes have here a most imposing effect, being very close. As seen from this spot they inspired Wordsworth with some of his finest and most characteristic poetry. “ Many are the notes That in his tuneful course the wind draws forth From rocks, woods, caverns, heaths, and dashing shores, And well those lofty brethren bear their part In one wild concert—chiefly when the storm Rides high; then all the upper air they fill With roaring sound, that ceases not to flow, Like smoke along the level of the blast In mighty current; theirs, too, is the song Of stream and headlong flood that seldom fails; And in the grim and breathless hour of noon Methinks that I have heard them echo back The thunder’s greeting. Nor have nature’s laws Left them ungifted of a power to yield Music of finer tone ; a harmony, So do I call it, though it be the hand Of silence, though there be no voice; the clouds, The mist, the shadows, light of golden suns. Motions of moonlight, all come hither—touch And have an answer;—there the sun himself At the calm close of summer’s longest day Rests his substantial orb; between these heights, And on the top of either pinnacle, Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud. Thoughts are not busier in the mind of man Than the mute agents stirring there.” Blea Tarn, however, is best seen from the S. looking up the pass into the Langdale Pikes. There is no more striking picture. It would be necessary, in order to see it in this point of view, to reverse the route to Langdale, but in that case the fine approach to the Pikes through the valley would be lost. It would be worth while to make a separate ex¬ cursion to Blea Tarn from Ambleside, passing through Little Langdale instead of Great Langdale ; you then have all the beauty before you, and the interest increases at every step. This road is quite practicable for wheels. Leaving Blea Tarn, the road to Ambleside winds round the base of Lingmoor, opening fine views at every turn of Wetherlam. Leaving that mountain on the rt., the road then passes into Little Langdale, where is the fine waterfall of Colwith Force, which has an upper and a lower fall like that of Rydal, but descending with rather a large volume of water into a basin, the stream from which takes it course to Elter- water. The stream has its source in Wetherlam and Wrynose Pells, and flows through the Tarn of Little Langdale. Here the valley of Little Langdale practically ends, but the road does not rejoin the Brathay before Skel¬ witli Bridge. $ Just above the bridge is the fall of Skelwith Force. It is difficult to obtain a good view of this waterfall; you are too near. The best distant view is from a knoll which may be thus reached from the inn:—Cross the bridge, go up the Coniston road for perhaps 100 yds., or halfway up the first ascent, and there is a stone stepping-stile beside a gate, cross a few yards of the field, get over a low stone wall before you, and mount the fell through the brushwood ; you have now a perfect picture before you, the Fall in the centre, the Langdale Pikes for a background, and a rock¬ setting on either side. The stream is crossed at Skelwith Bridge, a little below the fall, by the road from Hawksliead to Grasmere, and at Brathay Bridge, li m. lower down, by the road from Hawksliead to Ambleside. 58 Route 11 .—Ambleside to Keswiclc. ROUTE 11. AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK, BY LANG- DALE, THE STAKE PASS AND BORROWDALE— 22 111. It has been proposed to make the road over the Stake Pass practicable for wheels, which would not present any great difficulty; but, till this is done, a carriage can only he taken as far as Dungeon Gill (7% m.); then follows about 3 hrs.’ walk or ride over the Pass to Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, whence it is 6^ m. along a good driving road to Keswick. To walk the whole way from Am- bleside to Keswick takes only about G hrs. This excursion begins and ends with a magnificent valley; hut the Pass itself is not quite of first- rate merit, the views being rather limited and the descent through Langstrath somewhat dreary. As far as Dungeon Gill (7| m.) this route is described in Rte. 10. [The more active order of pedes¬ trians will be amply rewarded for the extra fatigue of the following route : From Dungeon Gill ascend to Stickle Tarn under the precipice of PaveyArk; ascend Harrison Stickle or not as you feel inclined : thence follow the ridge nearly due N. for a long 2 m. over the summit of High White Stones (2500 ft.), to the slight depression (2000 ft.) where the track from Eas- dale crosses into Borrowdale. This track may be followed down Greenup Gill with its fine examples of glacier mounds, but it is better and finer to continue along the ridge for another 2 m. over Ullscarf (2370 ft.), and then inclining 1. descend by Blea Tarn to the beautiful upland valley of Watendlath. The road follows the rt. bank of the stream for about 1 m., after which it diverges gently to the rt., and passing through rich woods soon affords an enchanting view of Derwentwater lying far below. On the 1. and immediately beneath is the wooded ravine of Lodore. The falls, which are not in view, are fed by the stream from Watendlath Tarn. The road now drops gently by Ashness Bridge (a favourite with artists) into the main road from Borrowdale to Keswick, near Barrow House. From this point Keswick may be reached in half an hour, Falcon Crag, Wallow Crag, and Castle Head being successively passed on the rt. Keswick, see Rte. 14.] For 14 m. the path is identical with that to Rossett Gill, and proceeds parallel to the long shoulder leading up to Bow Fell, and on the 1. bank of the stream. The road, which must be followed nearly to the head of the Langdale Valley, then turns to the rt. up the Stake Pass. This pass presents no difficulties, but the turns are rather sharp, and the zig¬ zags rough and steep. Rossett Crag is on the 1., and the long stretch of sloping moorland which forms the back of the Langdale Pikes gradually conies into view on the rt. 10£ m. the top of the Pass (1570 ft.) is’hummocky, with some boggy bits. The descent on the other side, between Glaramara and the line of crags which ends with Eagle Crag, is easier than the ascent. After f m. the main stream of Langstrath brings down the waters of Angle Tarn, and this stream is kept on the 1. for 2 m. more, till crossed by a little foot-bridge. Rather more than a \ m. below the bridge the road turns sharply 1. round a promontory of rock. Greenup Gill is seen coming down on the rt. from the far side of Eagle Crag, which now looks most imposing. Hence it is but a short mile to Stone- thwaite, the first hamlet, a little beyond which the high road to Bor- wyU VitS^XA ,;,7i isW l -L-”,? Route 12 . —Ambleside to Patterdale, 59 rowdale is entered. Rosthwaite lies to the rt., | m. from the point where the main road is entered. The views in the descent, with Glaramara and the picturesque Eagle Crag in close proximity, are admirable. On the way down, several pools of great beauty will be noticed in the stream. Just before Stonethwaite is entered there is a spring of excellent water, on the 1. side of the road, led through a wooden pipe. 15^ m. Rosthwaite (see Rte. 14), from which there is a beautiful drive of G4 m. to Keswick [see Rte. 14]. ROUTE 12. AMBLESIDE (OR WINDERMERE) TO PATTERDALE, BY KIRKSTONE PASS— 111 . OR 12 ^ 111 . From Ambleside there is a public coach daily, starting immediately after the breakfast hour, and returning in time for dinner. Fare 4s., return Gs. After J m. of steep ascent the Traveller’s Best Inn (3 111 .) is reached and the road joins that from Winder- mere, from which place, if possible, this excursion should by all means be made. Windermere. This is 4 m. longer than the road from Ambleside, but far more picturesque. Public coaches at 9.30, returning at 4 r.M. Fares 5s., return 7s. Gel. f m. the road from Bowness joins 1. and the Patterdale road turns rt. out of the main road to Ambleside. A succession of fine views are now seen of the woods below, and of the fells across the lake. Gradually mounting the valley of Troutbeck, we descend slightly to cross the stream at 3 m. Troutbeck village. $ The ch. was rebuilt in 1736, and reseated in 18G1. There is an old oak com¬ munion table, presented 1G84. Mr. J. M. Dunlop, of Hole Herd, gave the organ in 1870, and the stained E. window in 1873. [A road 1. leads up into the straggling village which lines the road along the hill from Ambleside. It is of this road below the village that Professor Wilson said : “ There is not such another splendid prospect in all England as the view of Windermere from the road leading from Troutbeck to Low W r ood. The lake has much the character of a river without losing its own. The islands are seen almost all lying together in a cluster; below which all is loveliness and beauty; above, all majesty and grandeur. Bold or gentle promontories break all the banks into frequent bays, seldom without a cottage or cottages em¬ bowered in trees; and while the whole landscape is of a sylvan kind, parts of it are so laden with woods, that you see only here and there a wreath of smoke, but no houses, and could almost believe that you are gazing on the primeval forests.” The village is 1J m. long, stragg¬ ling, and very picturesque. Some of the houses have courtyards with high walls, required in former days for defence, and the yews are clipped into artificial shapes. The cottages were once rich in old carved oak fur¬ niture, but the curiosity dealers have found out this primitive village, and most of its ancient treasures have been removed. “ The cottages stand for the most part in clusters of twos and threes, with here and there what is called a claclian— i.e. a small town within a long town ; but where in all Scot¬ land is a wide, long, scattered con¬ gregation of rural dwellings all dropped down where the painter and GO Route 12 .—Ambleside to Ratterdale. the poet would have wished to plant them,—on knolls and in dells, on banks and braes, and below tree- crested rocks,—all bound together in picturesque confusion by old groves of ash, oak, and sycamore, and by flower-gardens and fruit-orchards, rich as those of the Hesperides ? ”— Professor Wilson. Along the top of the heights to the rt. ran the great Roman road, High Street, which may still be easily traced. High Street is the loftiest of a range of heights extending southward from Apple- thwaite Common, between the north of Kentmere and the mouth of Trout- beck. The central position of the mountain as the focus of several pastoral valleys made it long a place of annual meeting for shepherds. They assembled from places many miles distant, to communicate mutual information, and they entertained themselves with rustic games, and with cakes and ale. A spot on the summit of the ridge, called Scot’s Rake, a short distance south of the summit, is said to have been occupied by a party of rebels in 1715, who contemplated a descent into Trout- beck. High Street, which may be interesting to many on account of its associations with the Roman occupa¬ tion, can be ascended from Troutbeck by following the road up the E. side of the vale, in the direction of the Park Slate Quarries, to the foot of a deep ravine, called the Blue Gill, thence proceeding at a right angle up the side of the mountain to the sum¬ mit of the ridge at the Scot's Rake ; from this point the course is north¬ ward, along the ridge, to the rocky height of Thornthwaite Crag, then through a slight depression beyond it, up a grassy acclivity to the summit. The upper valley of Troutbeck, now very bare of wood, was once a dense forest. A large estate here was con¬ ferred by Charles I. on one of the Philipsons of Belle Isle, Windermere, for his services in the civil war. Ill Bell (247G ft.) is the most con¬ spicuous elevation, being only 187 ft. lower than High Street (2GG3 ft.). The river, as its name denotes, is a good one for the angler, fine Winder- mere Lake trout frequently ascending the stream.] The limestone formation which crosses the head of Windermere forms a junction with the slate, and tra¬ verses the vales of Troutbeck, Kent- mere, and Long Sleddale, crossing the intervening mountains. The stratification dips to the S.E., while the cleavage of the slate frequently inclines in the opposite direction. There is now a steady mount to the Townhead, where the road from Low Wood comes in (Queen’s Head Lin close by), and the flank of Wans- fell is after a long pull turned. G m. on crossing the ridge into the Stockgill Valley, Ambleside is seen far below, and still mounting we reach 7 m. Tra veller's Pest Inn, $ where the road from Ambleside overtakes us. The inn, absurdly enough, claims to be the highest inhabited house in England. This has been laboriously refuted by successive writers, each rejoicing in the discovery as original. [From the Red Screes (2541 ft,), the hill on the 1. of the pass, there is a magnificent view including Saddle¬ back, Helvellvn, the Yorkshire hills, and the groups of Coniston and Scafell. To go and return to the pass takes about 1 hr.] The stone from which the pass is said to have received its name stands 1. about l m. beyond the summit, A long descent follows to m. Brother's Water Inn, J m. above the small lake of that name. 10;| m. the beck which descends from Hayeswater is crossed, and almost immediately after the Goldrill Beck. The rest of the way is full of the most varied beauty to 12^ Patterdale (see Rte. 26). The Ullswater Hotel is a long mile bevond, v <31 Route 13 .—Ambleside to Keswick. KOUTE 13. AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK, BY GRAS¬ MERE AND THIRLMERE— 16 m. Coaches 4 times a clay, in 3 or 4 hours to Keswick (5s. GcL), and to Grasmere much oftener (Is.). There are two roads from Ambleside to Grasmere— 1. Through Clappersgate and over Keel Bank, 7J m., is perhaps the most interesting. 2. The high road (4 m.) on the 1. bank by Rydal Water, pass¬ ing under Nab Scar on the rt. At the head of Rydal Water are some quarries ; from this point there are three ways to Grasmere—1. The coach-road skirting the lake. 2. An older road which goes straight over the promontory of rock, past the Wishing Gate, joining the coach-road just beyond the Lake Hotel at Gras¬ mere. 3. A higher old pack-road striking off to the rt., from the top of which the .Yale of Grasmere and its lake burst upon the view, and with the mountains beyond form a striking picture. Hr. Arnold used to call them “ Radical Reform,” “ Reform,” and “ Old Corruption.” *GRASMERE. $ The population has sunk from 741 in 1871 to 684 in 1881. The first view of the lake and vale of Grasmere is very striking. It is completely encircled by mountains. From, its W. shore Silver How (which derives its name probably from Sol- var, a Scandinavian chief or Viking, whose tomb was perhaps on its sum¬ mit) rises steeply; on its S. Lough- rigg dips almost sheer into the water; on its E. side the hills rise one above another, up to the very top of Fair- field ; and its N. end is closed by Helm Crag and the Borrowdale Fells. Helm Crag (1299 ft.) is a pvramidal- ly-shaped hill, a prominent feature in the vale; the rocks which crown its summit are really about 200 yards apart, and have been fancifully com¬ pared, when seen from different points of view, to a lion couchant with a lamb by its side, to an old woman, and to an astrologer, as by Words- worth in his ‘ Waggoner'— “ Above Helm Crag a streak half-dead, A burning of portentous red ; And near that lurid light full well The Astrologer, sage Sidrophel, Where at his desk and hook he sits Puzzling aloft his curious wits ; He whose domain is held in common With no one hut the ancient woman Cowering beside her rifted cell, As if intent on magic spell. Dread pair, that, spite of wind and weather, Still sit upon Helm Crag together.” It may be easily ascended from the Far Easdale valley. It has a curious craggy top, but no particular view. The impression made by this cele¬ brated lake,—at a time, at least, when the valley was little frequented by tourists, and was in that primitive state which Gray the poet described ; “ not a single red tile, no glaring gentleman's house breaking in upon the repose of an unsuspected para¬ dise ; but only peace, rusticity, and happy poverty in its neatest and most becoming attire,”—was always very marked upon imaginative minds. “ It was sunset when we approached Gras¬ mere. The solemn heights towards the setting sun showed their dark sides reflected in the water with won¬ derful distinctness. The effect of this lake upon the spirit was im¬ mediate ; awakening a feeling of something profound in one’s oavu nature. Windermere was tranquil, but it was a cheerful tranquillity ; its genius was peace, but peace with a smiling aspect. Grasmere seemed to be formed amidst the mountain re¬ cesses expressly as an abode for lonely, silent, pensive meditation.” — Chcinning. Grasmere has become a place of much resort since the above description was written. Several 02 Route 13.-—Grasmere, large hotels, especially that excellent one the Prince of Wales, and many lodging-houses, villas, and mansions, have sprung up around it, and few spots in the Lake district are more visited, and in proportion to the extent of its accommoda¬ tion are more crowded during the touring season. Being in a central position, it is found very convenient as headquarters for tourists. Lang- dale, Keswick, Coniston, Thirlmere, and LTllswater can be easily visited from it, and there are few places from which, within a few miles, so much fine scenery can be enjoyed. Mr. Chan- ning thought Grasmere resembled Cintra in Portugal. The craggy and wooded heights to the E. called Forest Side, as seen from the lake, may have suggested the comparison. Much of the wood which once clothed this side of the vale has been since cut down. The lake is 1 m. in length, and f m. in breadth, and lies in a hollow, and the noble amphi¬ theatre of mountains which encircle it can be best seen from the water. At Town End, near the Prince of Wales Hotel, is the house occupied by Wordsworth when he first settled at Grasmere ; it is now a lodging- house. It was once “ The Dove and Olive-bough,'’ referred to in ‘ the Waggoner : ’— “ There where the Dove and Olive-bough Once hung, a poet harbours now, A simple water-drinking bard.” Here Wordsworth lived from 1799 to 1808. The house was afterwards oc¬ cupied by De Q.uincey. The village of Grasmere is J m. N. of the lake. The Ch. is a heavy, hideous building of great antiquity, with a massive tower. In the ch.-yard Wordsworth was buried. A plain blue slate flag, with the words “ William Words¬ worth,’’ and under them “ Mary Wordsworth,” his widow, with the years of their respective deaths, marks the spot. On the 1. is the grave of his daughter Dora (Mrs. Quillinan), near it that of his sister Dorothy. Within the church is a marble tablet with a medallion profile of the poet, which Avas erected by subscription among his neighbours. The epitaph is 'the composition of the late Rev. John Keble, the Author of the ‘ Christian Year.’ Near the grave are yeAV-trees planted many years before his death by the poet’s desire, if not with his OAvn hands. The Rothay glides gently by, and Fairfield, Silver Hoav, and Helm Crag look doAvn upon the spot. “Westminster contains no resting-place so fit for him.” A little behind the graves of the Wordsworth family is that of Hartley Coleridge, the eldest son of S. T. Coleridge, denoted by a cruci¬ form tombstone. The most interesting spots in the vicinity of Grasmere are— Easdale 1 m., and Easdale Tarn m. The tarn is one of the finest in the district. The road to Easdale passes Butterlip How, a picturesque wooded hill on the rt., and then Helm Crag and Lan- crigg. Sour Milk Force is a fine cascade, which flows over a steep ledge of rocks at the head of Easdale. The stream issues from Easdale Tarn. The character of Easdale is that of solemnity and sternness. It is girt round by Blakerigg Crags and Codale and Shepherd Pikes. Thence, by Avay of Codale Tarn and Pike and Sergeant Man, on the High Raise Moor, Borrowdale may be reached through Stonetlnvaite valley. Eas¬ dale Tarn is reached by ascending a steep path by the side of Easdale Force, and then proceeding 1J m. over a moor. A little above Easdale Tarn is another but smaller Tarn (Codale Tarn), from which a stream flows into Easdale Tarn. The ascent to it is steep, but the scenery will repay .the trouble. Surrounded by lofty cliffs, it is a perfect picture of loneliness and seclusion. The angling in both tarns is good, and a boat is kept on Easdale Tarn, There is a branch of the Easdale valley to the 63 Route 13 .—Red Bank — Loughrigg. rt., called Far Easdale, very wild and solitary, and worth exploring. It is the pony - road to Borrowdale, to reach which the valley must be as¬ cended to its head, keeping the stream on the rt. Just short of the top a turn to the rt. must be avoided, as it leads down to Wythburn Head. Proceeding along, keeping High Raise on the 1., the ridge is crossed and the path inclines rt., and descends into the little valley of Greenup, where grass - grown moraines and other signs of glacial action are abundant. From the head of Far Easdale to Greenup the road is marked by guide - stones. From Greenup, Rosthwaite is but a short distance. The whole distance from Grasmere is under 8 m., and it forms a charm¬ ing excursion. The mountain streams in the neighbourhood of Grasmere abound in small trout, and the river, which flows from the lake into Rydal Water, sometimes affords ex¬ cellent sport. Red Bank. The most striking view of Grasmere is from this spot, 1J m. from the ch. The ascent to it is steep : a road, however, has been cut through the woods on the W. side of the lake, but, being private, can only be used by permission. Cars must ascend Red Bank by the old road. The views of the lake, vale, and sur¬ rounding mountains from this road are very grand; on reaching the top, Helvellyn and Skiddaw are seen in the distance, Fairfield is immediately in front, and Nab Scar and the woods of Rydal Park complete a picture that has scarcely its equal in West¬ morland. High Close, If m. on the highest part of the road to Great Langdale. Take the road to the rt. after leaving Red Bank. A little beyond Lough¬ rigg, the residence of E. B. Wheatley Balme, Esq., on the 1. of the road, one of the grandest views in the country opens. Here is a seat with the words “ Rest and be thankful ” carved on it. Windermere is seen in the distance, Elterwater lies directly below, Lang¬ dale with the Pikes are seen on the rt., Wetherlam in front; Bowfell, the most picturesque of the West¬ morland mountains, terminates the view to the N. There is a short route from Gras¬ mere into Langdale (2 m.), over the old packhorse road (once the only road from Grasmere to Whitehaven), which starts from Between Gates, on the rt. of the road by the W. side of the lake. The views from the top of this path equal any in the vicinity of Grasmere, and comprehend the whole valley. Skiddaw is just visible through the gap of Dunmail Raise. Loughrigg Tarn. The road to the 1. must be taken, leaving High Close to the rt. : and after passing a farm¬ house called “ The Oaks,” and pro¬ ceeding £ m., the tarn is seen lying directly under Loughrigg Fell. Its banks, unlike those of tarns in gene¬ ral, are well-wooded, and grassy meadows slope down to its brink. It is nearly circular, with an area of about 20 acres. Loughrigg(seep. 12) can be easily ascended from Red Bank. On its N. slope, and above Grasmere Lake, is a green bridle-path called the Terrace, from which Grasmere and Rydal Lakes are seen to great advantage. An excursion under Loughrigg and round the W. shore ot Rydal Lake will occupy about 3 hrs., returning by the Keswick road to Grasmere. To shorten the distance a boat may be taken to the foot of the lake, from which the Terrace is easily reached. A walk by the side of Nab Scar to Rvdal Mount should not be omitted. The path turns off to the 1. from the “ old road ” to Ambleside, at the top of the hill above Town End, whence it may be followed to Rydal. The views of Rydal Water and of the Rothay Valley, with the town of Am- V V * Route 13 .—Buttertijo How—The Wishing Gaiet. G4 bleside in the distance, are delightful. The wooded crags of Nab Scar afford good subjects for the pencil. Butterlip How. The walk round this picturesque wooded knoll, about 1 in. from the ch. of the Easdale road, is charming, opening out views of Easdale, Helm Crag, and the loftier eminences around it. The path enters from a gate on the 1., and winding round the How, leads into the Keswick road near the Swan. Greenhead Gill is situated in a gorge of the hills ^ m. E. of Gras¬ mere, and is the scene of Words¬ worths pastoral ‘ Michael.’ The incidents of the poem are historical, and the remains of the unfinished sheepfold existed within a few years. The stones have since been used for fences. The approach to Greenhead Gill is from behind the Swan Inn. A waterfall rarely visited and little known, called Tongue Gill Water¬ fall, should be seen. It is on the way to Grisedale Pass. At the second bridge on the Keswick road, 1 m. from the Swan, a gate opens into a field on the rt.: at the farm-house on the top of the hill a guide can be procured. The fall, although not lofty, is very beautiful, and is ap¬ proached by steps cut in the bank. The chasm is partially concealed by overhanging wood, and the spray of the water is felt almost before the fall is seen. The Wishing Gate, the subject of one of Wordsworth's best known lyrics, is on the rt. of a former turn¬ pike-road now called the Middle Koad, leading from Grasmere to Ambleside. It is not, however, the ancient gate with its “ moss-grown bar,” which has long disappeared, but the spot retains its traditionary in¬ terest. The gate substituted for the old one is covered with the initials and names of more recent votaries. The poem is inserted here for the benefit of those who may desire to read it on the spot. “ Hope rules a land for ever green; All powers that serve the bright-eyed Queen Are confident and gay; Clouds at her bidding disappear ; Points she to aught ?—the bliss draws near, And fancy smooths the way. “ Not such the land of Wishes—there Dwell fruitless day-dreams, lawless prayer, And thoughts with things at strife ; Yet how forlorn—should ye depart, Ye superstitions of the heart— How poor were human life! “ When magic lore abjured its might, Ye did not forfeit one dear right, One tender claim abate; Witness this symbol of your sway Surviving near the public way, The rustic Wishing-gate. “ Inquire not if the faery race Shed kindly influence on the place, Ere northward they retired ; If here a warrior left a spell, Panting for glory as he fell; Or here a saint expired. “ Enough that all around is fair, Composed with Nature’s finest care, And in her fondest love— Peace to embosom and content, To overawe the turbulent, The selfish to reprove. “ Yea! even the stranger from afar, Reclining on this mossgrown bar, Unknowing and unknown, The infection of the ground partakes, Longing for his beloved, who makes All happiness her own. “ Then why should conscious spirits fear The mystic stirrings that are here, The ancient faith disclaim ? The local genius ne’er befriends Desires whose course in folly ends, Whose just reward is shame. “ Smile if thou wilt, but not in scorn, If some, by ceaseless pains outworn, Here crave an easier lot; If some have thirsted to renew A broken vow, or bind a true, With firmer, holier knot. “ And not in vain, when thoughts are cast Upon the irrevocable past, Some penitent sincere May for a worthier future sigh, While trickles from his downcast eye No unavailing tear. “ The worldling, pining to be freed From turmoil, who would turn or speed The current of his fate, Might stop before this favoured scene At Nature’s call, nor blush to lean Upon the Wishing-gate. Route 13.— Fairfield — Helvellyn. 65 “ The Sage who feels how blind, how weak Is man, though loth such help to seek, Yet passing, here might pause, And thirst for insight, to allay Misgiving, while the crimson day In quietness withdraws ; “ Or when the church-clock’s knell profound To Time’s first step across the bound Of midnight makes reply; Time pressing on with starry crest To filial sleep upon the breast Of dread Eternity.” A few hundred yards from the Wishing Gate, at the top of the hill, on the road leading to Ambleside, is a charming view of Rydal Water, and of the tine wooded crag Nab Scar. Whitemoss How, behind the young larch-plantation on the 1., opposite the Wishing Gate, also affords a pleasant ramble, and commands some striking prospects. On the opposite side of the road is The Fir Grove, referred to by the poet in the Lines on the naming of places:—• “ Thither do I withdraw when cloudless suns Shine hot, or winds blow troublesome and strong; And there I sit at evening, when the steep Of Silver How and Grasmere’s peaceful lake And one Green Island gleam beneath the stems Of the dark firs, a visionary scene! ” The larches have been cut down, but the firs remain. A young plan¬ tation is springing up. Fairfield (2862 ft.) should be as¬ cended from Grasmere. The excur¬ sion will occupy 4 hrs. The name is probably derived from the Scandi¬ navian word Fciar, signifying sheep. Fairfield is thus the sheep-mountain, from the fertility and abundance of its pastures. “ It has large smooth pastoral savannahs, to which the sheep resort when all its rocky neigh¬ bours are left desolate.” — De Quincey. The first part of the ascent is the most laborious, being rough and steep ; but the pedestrian will soon find him¬ self on the elastic mountain turf, “ crushing out a livelier fragrance ” from the mountain flowers and wild [English Lahes .] thyme under his feet. The ascent is not difficult, the whole way being a series of grassy slopes. On the E. of the summit are Dove Crags, at the head of Deepdale, through which the green fields of Hartsop are seen. Be¬ low, on the N. side, are the precipices of Deepdale. From the summit, which is covered with turf, the dif¬ ferent mountain rauges seem to stretch away in billowy confusion. A wide expanse of sea is visible to the S., with Morecambe and Duddon Bays and the Solway Firth. In the descent the views of the Vale of Grasmere and Easdale are very beautiful. Ulls- water, Windermere, Esthwaite, Conis- ton, Grasmere, and Rydal lakes, and Elterwater, Blelham, Easdale, Codale, and Grisedale tarns are visible from the top. The botanist will find on Fairfield Juncus trigliunis, Luzula spicata, Sedura rhodiola, and Saxi- fraga platypetala. Helvellyn may be easily ascended from Grasmere; but the ascent is more generally made from Patterdale (Rte. 26). If made from Grasmere it will take a little more time than from Wythburn or Patterdale; but is certainly more interesting than from Wythburn, and more gradual. It is commenced from the path close to the old mill-bridge, by the side of Tongue Gill, and thence by way of Hause Crags, Grisedale Hause, to the foot of Grisedale Tarn. Thence by a zigzag path to the summit of Dolly Waggon Pike (probably derived from the Norse), and thence along a series of crests of hills forming nearly the whole length of the great Helvellyn range for 2 m. to the great cairn at the top, and commanding an un¬ equalled succession of vistas through declivitous gorges. The ascent can be made the whole way on a pony. Patterdale can be reached from Grasmere by the Grisedale Pass through some of the grandest moun¬ tain-scenery of the district, 9 m., hrs.: a good horse track. The turn- p GG Route 13 .—Dunmail Raise — Tliirlmere. pike road is followed to a bridge rather more than a mile from the Lake Hotel; a path to the right on the N. side of an ivy-covered cottage then leads along a narrow lane, till it comes out on the mountain pasture, keeping on the rt. hank of the stream. In about lb hour, the latter part of the path being steep and rugged, the col is reached; along it is a wall, through a gap in which the lonely Grisedale Tarn is seen immediately below, and a fine view is obtained down Grisedale and over Ullswater. Looking back between Helvellyn and Seat Sandal, Grisedale Pike (on the far side of Derwentwater) is seen with Causey Pike beside it. The path goes round the S. end of the tarn, and crosses the stream close to it. Here the path up Helvellyn turns to the 1., that down Grisedale to the rt. It is kept in tolerable order on this side, and follows the 1. bank of the stream for about an hour, then crosses to the rt. bank near a deserted forge and mine. In another hour the Pat- terdale road is reached, with the Patterdale Hotel to the rt., and the Ullswater Hotel about a mile off, to the 1. Grasmere to the col If hr., col to Ullswater 2 lirs. If the tourist should not command sufficient time to visit all the spots enumerated in the vicinity of Gras¬ mere, he should not at least omit Easdale and the view from High Close, both of which may be accom¬ plished easily in a day. The road from Grasmere to Kes¬ wick ascends Dunmail Raise, a tree¬ less tract between Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the rt. The bare naked hills which slope to the road, and the debris which are scat¬ tered over their sides, give to the scenery an aspect of dreariness and desolation. The pass of Dunmail Raise (7f m.) is 783 ft. above the sea. It is the lowest neck or col in the mountain chain extending from Black Combe to the Cheviot range, and on its highest part is a rude cairn (near a stone fence a few yards beyond the bridge, marking the division between Cumberland and Westmorland), which is supposed to indicate the spot where Dunmail King of Cum¬ berland was defeated by Edmund King of England, a.d. 915. Before reaching the top of the pass, look back upon the vale and lake of Gras¬ mere set in its mountain frame. At the summit a distant view of Skiddaw opens, with a glimpse of Thirlmere ; the ridge of Helvellyn is on the rt. 9 m. Wythburn. The Inn is small and poor, but sometimes resorted to by those who intend to ascend Hel¬ vellyn from Wythburn. Opposite is “ Wythburn’s modest house of prayer. As lowly as the lowliest dwelling,” to which a chancel has been added. Those who desire to pass a night near Thirlmere had better proceed 3 m. to Thirlspot. The distance to the summit does not exceed 2 m., but the path is very steep, the ascent commencing almost from the roadside. The Nag’s Head was formerly “ The Cherry Tree ” of Wordsworth’s 4 Waggoner.’ (In¬ troduction, p. xxvii.) The road now skirts the W. base of the Helvellyn range, and runs through the vale of Legberthwaite. Thirlmere or Leathes Water, so called from the name of the pro¬ prietor, T. Stanger Leathes, Esq., 1 m. from the Nag’s Head. The first view of Thirlmere from the Keswick road is a little disap¬ pointing. It is extremely narrow, being 3 m. in length, and scarcely, at its widest part, more than f m. in breadth. The hills on the E. side of the upper reach are bare. It is not until a considerable portion of the lake has been passed that its beauty reveals itself. The road skirts the water for about If m., and then ascends a steep hill. The scenery here improves; the hills on the 1. rise almost perpen- 07 Route 13.— TJiirlsjjot: the Water Works. dicularly, and are partially wooded. The most conspicuous features on the opposite or western side of the lake are Fisher Crag and Raven Crag ; the one rises grandly over the southern, the other over the northern division of the lake. The coach route now quits sight of the lake, and descends by a parallel valley to « 11J m. Thirlspot. To form, however , a true estimate of the beauty of this lake, it should be seen from its W. shore. The great majority of tourists are content to see it only from the high road. Proceed to the other side of the lake by a bridge, passing first on the rt. Dale Head Hall. The lake in its centre contracts to the width of only a few yards. After crossing the bridge, Armboth Hall, far famed as a haunted house, stands in front. Take a path¬ way to the rt., where the lower reach of the lake opens out. The wooded heights of Great How and Naddle Fell impart much richness to the scenery. Helvellyn towers over the E. side ; the highest peak, however, is hidden by an intervening shoulder of the mountain called Helvellyn End. Raven Crag on the W. rises almost perpendicularly. The path may be pursued until the N. end of the lake is reached and the Keswick road entered. The S. end of the lake, although not so rich in sylvan beauty as the N., has many attractions. A wooded ravine with a beck falling through it on the W. side should be explored. It contains numberless little waterfalls and beautiful sylvan recesses. Thirlmere is the highest of all the English lakes, except Haweswater, being 533 ft. above sea- level, without the artificial raising of the surface. It is fed by 2 rivers, the one rising in Wythburn Head, the other in Harrop Tarn. It abounds with trout, perch, and pike, but, being private property, the fishing is strictly preserved. The Water Works. In October, 18G8, Mr. Bateman, C.E., reported to the Corporation of Manchester that the daily consumption of water was increasing by 10,000.000 galls, a year, and that at this rate the Long- dendale waterworks (constructed in 1841) would prove inadequate in 8 or 9 years from that date. Accord¬ ingly a new source of supply had to be found. Thirlmere presented many advantages, and in the face of strong opposition an Act was obtained in 1S79. Early in 1886 the works were begun, Mr. G. H. Hill being sole engineer. They were designed to deliver 50,000,000 galls, a day, to cost when complete 3,500,000Z., and to be ready in 1891. The operations present several interesting points of engineer¬ ing. The water is conveyed, with a fall of 20 in. to the mile, nearly 100 m., 13f of which is in tunnels, 37f in shallower tunnels, which can be cut from the surface, and 44J m. in iron syphon pipes of 40 in. diameter. Passing under Dunmail Raise by a tunnel 3 m. long, the aqueduct is carried E. of Grasmere, Ambleside, and Windermere, burrowing under Nab Scar by a tunnel of 1 m., and the high ground N.E. of Windermere, by one of 2 m. It then passes through Staveley, and about lm.E. of Kendal, and after crossing the Lune 4 m. E. of Lancaster, and the Ribble 4 m. E. of Preston, enters the reservoir at Prestwich, 95f m. from Thirlmere. The area of the natural lake was 328 acres, and the length 2f m., but by means of an embankment 286 yards in length, and varying in height from 47 ft. to 61 ft., the surface is raised 50 ft. the length increased to 4 m., the area to 800 acres, and the capacity to over 8,000,000,000 galls. The view of St. John’s Vale to the rt. in the descent from the high ground above Thirlmere is very striking. Saddleback, or Blencathra, conies suddenly into view : the narrow f 2 68 Route 14 Keswick to Wasdale Head. winding valley is richly wooded, well cultivated, and shut in by lofty hills. There is a road through the vale to Keswick, hut by taking that route the view from Castlerigg of the vale of Derwentwater, one of the finest coups-d’ceil in the country, would he lost. The Vale of St. John should therefore he left for a separate ex¬ cursion from Keswick. From 3 to 4 m. before Keswick is reached the scenery varies at every turn of the road which skirts Naddle Fell, and then passes for 2 m. over a bleak moor—Swarth Moss. On ar¬ riving at a sharp turn 1 m. from the town, the Vale of Keswick suddenly opens out, with Bassenthwaite Lake in the distance, Derwentwater and Borrowdale to the 1., the town of Keswick below. The view here is admitted to be the finest in the Lake district. 16.j m. Keswick. ROUTE 14. KESWICK TO WASDALE HEAD, BY BORROWDALE AND THE STY HEAD, 14 m. KESWICK. $ The town lies almost directly under Skiddaw. It has been long and is still chiefly known for its black-lead pencil manufactory, al¬ though the supply of the mineral, provincially called “ wad,” from the mine in Borrowdale, has ceased. (For an account of this once cele¬ brated mine, see p. 76.) Great quantities of pencils are made in Ger¬ many of a mixture composed of saw¬ dust and small pieces of black-lead, ground to an impalpable powder, and mixed with some cohesive medium. They at one time threatened to command the market, but the Kes¬ wick manufacturers met the Ger¬ mans on their own ground, and, applying colour and varnish of equal quality to the sticks, beat them by superiority of lead. Black- lead, as well as being employed in the form above described, is also reduced to little cylinders, and used in the form of ever-pointed pencils. Large quantities of these cylindrical leads are now produced at Keswick. The number of lead pencils made at Keswick is computed to be 250,000 a week, or about 13,000,000 a year. At an average length of 7 inches, this would give 1436^ miles of black-lead and cedar. Some of these pencils are worth 48s. per gross, and some are sold as low as Is. Gd. per gross. The cedar annually consumed amounts to about 1200 cubic feet, and yellow pine in due proportion. Much of the lead now used comes from Mexico and Peru. The num¬ ber of hands employed, including men, girls, and boys, amounts to 200, and the highest wages vary from 15s. to 20s. per week. The gross amount of wages paid annually amounts to 4000Z. Keswick is renowned for having long been the residence of Robert Southey, LL.D., Poet Laureate. Greta Hall, his former residence, is situated at a short distance from the town, on a knoll. In this beautiful retreat he wrote most of those works and periodical essays which gave him the highest literary position of his day. “ The situation of Southey’s house, taking all its accessories into con¬ sideration, is exceeded by few in England. Standing on Greta Bridge, looking over the house, the eye falls on the group of mountains behind it; the hill of Latrigg, with its larch plan¬ tations to the rt., and on the 1. rises the giant mass of Skiddaw, with its dells and ravines. Turning to the S., the group of mountains at the entrance of Borrowdale is most beau¬ tiful. If any artist would choose a scene for the entrance into fairy- MAP 3. } £MiUhci WhanJaSf) 1.0 nr os 1E1.L A S nhisicie 'oircar-ton ’I Dofti flium •iffvnaith Wtoh % ’ HoUin» j&J MelfilU >ui \>01-ecU i] Wooa rhblep White-vide Lords Harm iv Outer.vipU' Cawaey ‘ .Pike [Borrow! ~ vf/fOW-l: aAmvf^ High Snab TV ; * VulliHtt'dnl,' > Y; Rtuvit-rxlah- Hiiut , Tke.Hause ^ ■oM.suvpey' ZeqiLMinfi: BroA'riV. .Dod/lfSir ifisoiy r i/ulsU SdiuynUk/S (Th ylL- /\ \ —■ fS■ jp £. . ■ Route 14.— Keswich: Crostliwaite Church. land, he should take that.”— Mackay. Southey died here iu 1843, having resided 30 years at Greta Hall, lead¬ ing a life of almost unparalleled lite¬ rary labour. It has been said of him that he was rarely seen in his house but in the act either of using a pen or mending one. The Greta flows past the hall. The scenery of this river, where it passes under the woody side of Latrigg, is of the most pleasing kind :— “-Ambiguo lapsu refluitque fluitque Occurensquc sibi venturas aspicit undas.” Southey, while walking iu his garden, had before him a scene of mountain magnificence which he duly appre¬ ciated, and the sublimity of the surrounding objects is certainly well calculated to produce a correspond¬ ing elevation of mind. The banks of the Greta were a favourite haunt of the poet, and there is no English stream to which the above truly 0vidian description could more truly apply. From a jutting isthmus, round which the tortuous river twists, you look over its manifold windings up the stream to Saddleback, and down it over a high and wooded middle-ground to the distant moun¬ tains of Newlands. The Greta is formed by the confluence of the Glen- deramakin river and St. John’s Beck, £ m. below Threlkeld, and it then flows 4 m. W.S.W., overlooked by Latrigg on the N., and by Naddle Fell on the S., and round the N. side of Keswick, forming a junction with the Derwent at the foot of the lake. The Greta is subject to sudden floods, and then breasts the Derwent at their confluence, and sometimes forces the water of the latter river back into the lake. The road between Keswick and Portinscale bridges is not unfrequently flooded. The parish Ch. at Crosthwaitei dedicated to St. Kentigern, is large, with heavy buttresses and battle¬ ments and a massive tower. The ch. was restored in 1845 by Jas. 60 Stauger, Esq., of Lairthwaite, at a cost of 4000Z. It possesses some ancient monuments, among them one of Sir John Rat cliff e, who led the Cumber¬ land men to Flodden Field, and died 1529, an ancestor of the Earl of Derwentwater, and Dame Alice his wife, recumbent, in alabaster. There are also some ancient brasses. There are a few remains of stained glass, including part of a figure of St. Anthony with his cross ; and a female head. The font is very curious, and bears the arms of Edw. III. The devices on it represent the Tree of Knowledge, the Passion, the Trinity, Aaron’s rod budding, &c. The in¬ scriptions, which till deciphered by Mr. A. W. Franks, F.R.S., had baffled antiquarian curiosity, are simply ex¬ planatory of the shields ; those under the panels combined make up : “ Orate pro a’ia Dom. Thom, d’eskhede olim ecclesie kuius vicarii.” Southey, who is buried in the ch.-yd., has a recumbent monument in the ch., which is said to be a good likeness, by Lougli, and cost 1100Z., raised by subscription. The epitaph was written by Wordsworth:— “Ye Yales and Hills whose beauty hither drew The Poet’s steps, and fixed him here, on you His eyes have closed! And ye, loved books, no more Shall Southey feed upon your precious lore, To Works that ne’er shall forfeit their renown Adding immortal labours of his own— Whether he traced historic truth, with zeal For the State’s guidance or the Church’s weal, Or fancy, disciplined by studious art, Informed his pen, or wisdom of the heart, Or judgments sanctioned in the Patriot’s mind By reverence for the rights of all mankind, Wide were his aims; yet in no human breast Could private feelings find a holier nest. His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud From Skiddaw’s top ; but he to heaven was vowed Through a life long and pure; and Christian faith Calm’d in his soul the fear of change and death.” 70 Route 14 .—Keswick : The Museum is worth a short visit. It contains a good collection of Cum¬ berland minerals and specimens of the granites, porphyries, and slates of the district, granite from Shap Fells, fossils from Saddleback slate, and some fine pieces of “ wad ” or black-lead. There is also a good collection of antiquities, British and Roman, consisting of stone celts dis¬ covered in the district, coins, sculp¬ tures, and implements. Some of the bas-reliefs were found at Old Carlisle, and others at Caer-Mote and Papcastle; a Roman sword, the hilt and scabbard beautifully enamelled, was found in the neigh¬ bourhood. There is also a rock- harmonicon formed of stones of horn¬ blende slate. The Model of the Lake District, by Flintoft, is exhibited in a room over the Market-house. It is on the scale of 3 in. to the m. May- son’s Ordnance Model (scale G in. to 1 m.), is exhibited in the Lake Road, where also Abraham's (on the same scale) was brought out in 1888. The charge is 6d. In the upper part of the town are the new Church of St. John and adjoining schools, all built by Mr. Marshall. Walla Crag, a height 2 m. from Keswick, was a favourite station of Southey, and one to which he invari¬ ably took his guests. Friar's Crag, a promontory on the E. shore of Derwentwater, 1 m. from Keswick, commanding a charming near view of the Lake with the surrounding mountains, was the general limit of his daily walk. If the time of the tourist should be restricted, a walk to Castle Head or Walla Crag, and a drive through Borrowdale and round the lake, should certainly not be omitted. But the panoramic view above the town from Castlerigg (1 m.), on the Grasmere and Winder- mere road, is alone sufficient to repay a traveller for a long journey, for the prospect there presented has probably no equal in Great Britain. “ The Yale Museum — Walla Crag. of Keswick with Skiddaw for its huge boundary and bulwark to the N. and Bassenthwaite stretching into the open country, form a combination of water, hills, and remote horizon, in which Claude would have found all he desired, and more than even he could have represented, had he beheld it in the glory of a midsummer sunset.” The finest view in the vicinity of Keswick, next to that from Walla Crag, is from Applethwaite. “ The old roofs and chimneys of that hamlet come finely in the fore¬ ground, and the trees upon the Ormathwaite estate give there a richness to the middle-ground which is wanting in other parts of the vale. I know not from which of the surrounding heights it is seen to most advantage, any one will amply repay the labour of the ascent; and often as I have ascended them all, it has never been without fresh delight.” — Southey. The view from the front of Derwent Bank is also most lovely, commanding as it does both Derwentwater and Bas¬ senthwaite. The one from the ter¬ race of Cat Bells should also be seen ; paths were cut on the sides of this mountain by Sir John Woodford, who lived in the mansion hidden among the woods at its base. The view from above Barrow Fall is also very fine, but that from Ladder Brow above Lodore, an expansion of the one from Barrow, is still finer. For a mountain ascent, previously to that of Skiddaw, Grisedale Pike is excellent. Take rail or car to Braithwaite, 2 m., pass through the village, and just where the Whinlatter road turns to the rt., keep straight on up a very steep bank several hundred feet high; a small plateau is then reached, and a large wood is seen on the rt. The ridge leads straight on to the summit of Grisedale Pike. Pass over to Grass- moor by the head of Coledale Pass, then over Ill Crags to Causey Pike, and down to Rawling End and 71 Route 14 .— Derwentioaier — St. Herbert's Inland. the Keswick and Buttermere road. This is one of the grandest mountain walks that can he taken among these hills. Derwentwater (formerly called also Keswick Water, and by the natives Daaran) is about 400 yds. from the town of Keswick, from -which there is a pleasant walk to the beach, where boats can be hired. The lake, although inferior in extent to Windermere, is, if not the grandest, perhaps the most beautiful of the lakes from its lovely islands, and the great variety of the valleys opening around, and the mountains -which en¬ circle it. Nothing can surpass the majesty of the mighty mass of Skid- daw r on the N., and the opening vista of Borro-wdale filled in by Scafell. The mountains in this direction (S.), seen in certain states of the atmo¬ sphere, with their pointed and jagged peaks, might almost be taken for an Alpine range. The lake is 3 m. long, over 1 m. broad at its widest part, and 238 ft. above the sea. It is subject to much increase of volume at times from heavy rains, rising frequently G or 7 ft. above its ordinary summer level. The chief features on the E. are Castle Head, Walla Crag, Falcon Crag, Gowder Crag, and the Knotts; on the N. the broken rocky mountains of Borrow- dale, Castle Crag and Glaramara, and Great End and Scafell in the dis¬ tance ; on the S. Hindscarth and Great Robinson, and High Stile and Red Pike beyond Buttermere ; on the W. Cat Bells and the heights of New- lands, with Causey Pike a prominent feature ; on the N. the grand mass of Skiddaw. The water of Derwentwater is much impregnated with vegetable matter, and its purity, but not its translucence, is somewhat impaired by the drainage of lead-mines. It is to these causes, coupled with the want of deep water, that the absence of char is probably owing, for more than one attempt has been made to natu¬ ralise the fish in the lake, but without success. A singular phenomenon of this lake is what is popularly called the “ bottom -wind.” The water is said to be sometimes agitated by waves when the atmosphere is perfectly still, which is supposed to be caused by an evolution of air from beneath. But if air is disengaged it would, according to Dr. Davy, be seen rising in bubbles, not producing waves. If the fact of there being waves on the lake in a calm state of the atmosphere should be proved, there must, he says, be some other cause for their produc¬ tion than this imaginary “ bottom wind.” Derwent Island is well wooded, and has a mansion on it (John Mar¬ shall, Esq.). The island is about G acres in extent; the grounds— which are laid out with taste —may be visited in the absence of the family. It is the nearest to Keswick, from whence it may be reached by boat in a few minutes. It was once a de¬ pendency of Fountains Abbey. St. Herbert’s Island, according to tradition, was the residence of St. Herbert. It is about lj m. from the Keswick shore of the lake. There is a landing-place on the island, which is thickly wooded and intersected with paths, from which the visitor catches charming glimpses of the fake and surrounding mountains. Bede says that St. Herbert left his cell once a year to visit St. Cuthbert, and “ receive from him the food of eternal life.” The recluse is said to have died here a.d. 687. A few remains of the supposed hermitage, portions of a rude building which may originally have consisted of an oratory and a cell, yet exist; but a dilapidated summer-house, which stands in the centre of the island, must not be mistaken for the hermit’s former abode. The site of the saint’s 72 Route 14 ,— St. Herbert’s Island — Lord’s Island . cell is indicated only by a shapeless mass of stones a short distance from the summer-house, on the 1. of the path leading to the boat-landing. Bede’s description of the hut (for it was nothing more), “ with walls of stones and turf, and roof of rough poles and straw,” is interesting as recording what was probably at that date the ordinary sort of house in Cumberland. Remains of precisely similar edifices may still be seen, notably in the N. and W. of Scot¬ land. In the 14th cent, the island was still visited by pilgrims, and religious services were celebrated on it. There is a tradition that St. Cuthbert and St. Herbert died at the same time. “ He had A fellow labourer, whom the good man loved As his own soul. And, when with eye upraised To heaven he knelt before the crucifix, While o’er the lake the cataract of Lodore Pealed to his orisons, and when he paced Along the beach ofi this small isle, and thought Of his companion, he would pray that both (Now that their earthly duties were ful¬ filled) Might die in the same moment—nor in vain So prayed he: as our chronicles report, Though here the Hermit numbered his last day Far from St. Cuthbert his beloved friend. These holy men both died in the same hour.”— Wordsworth. Lord's Island is said to have been originally a peninsula, and, after the erection of the mansion upon it, to have been severed from the main¬ land by a deep, wide, artificial cut, which served as a fosse, and was spanned by a drawbridge. It is so called from its having belonged to the Earls of Derwentwater, and the house is supposed to have been built out of the materials of a more im¬ posing edifice on Castlerigg, which the family relinquished when they took up their residence at Dilston, in Northumberland, on the marriage of the heiress of Sir John de Derwent¬ water with a Radcliff. The founda* tions of the walls still exist, and the walks of the pleasure-grounds can be distinctly traced. The situation is all that could be desired for a seques¬ tered abode. The rooks have now- undisturbed possession of the island. The w hole of the land on the N.E. side of the lake belonged to the Der¬ wentwater family until 1715, wffien Jas. Radcliff, the young Earl of Der¬ wentwater, forfeited them by taking part in the Jacobite rebellion. The Derwentwater property was then conferred on Greenwich Hospital, the Commissioners of which sold the timber far below its value. The land bordering on the lake, with the island, w r as afterwards sold to John Marshall, Esq., of Leeds, but not before much of the timber had been cut down. A ravine of Walla Crag is still called the Lady’s Rake, being the path by which, according to a most improbable tradition, the Coun¬ tess of Derwentw r ater effected her escape on hearing of her husband’s capture. She fled, it is said, not from the officers of justice, but from the rage of the peasantry, who be¬ lieved her to be the cause of the Earl of Derw r entw r ater’s misfortune, having instigated him to take part in the rebellion against his better judgment and the advice of his friends. The people of the district were strongly attached to him. The Earl w r as captured at Preston in Nov. 1715. His trial took place in Westminster Hall, and he w r as beheaded on Tow r er Hill the 23rd Feb. 1716. The peasantry interpreted a remarkable brilliancy of an aurora borealis, on the night of his execution, as a mani¬ festation of the anger of Heaven at his death, and the aurora is still called in the North “ Lord Denventw r ater’s Lights.” There is a tradition that the greater part of the Derwentwater plate is still at the bottom of the lake. Rampsholm is a small island covered with low r bruslnvood and a few fir-trees. An admirer of the Route 14 .— Watendiath—Loclore Inn. 73 poetry of Rogers will feel a peculiar interest in Derwentwater, the scenery of which is well described in the ‘ Pleasures of Memory.’ A drive round the lake is the best mode of seeing it. The distance is 10 m. A good road skirts the shores. The return to Keswick should be made through Grange and by the W. shore of the lake. The road passes the foot of Cat Bells (1182 ft.). The finely-wooded banks of the opposite shore are seen to great advantage. After the lake is passed, the road enters the high road near Portinscale. In Borrowdale are found Saxifraga oppositiflora, Silene acaulis, and Pre- nanthes muralis. Route to Wasdale .—A pony can be ridden all the way. Wheels cannot go beyond Seathwaite. The Butter- mere coaches may be used as far as Seatoller (8 m.) Keswick is quitted near St. John’s Ch., and Castlehead being passed 1., the road proceeds with Walla Crag and Falcon Crag rising grandly 1. Geologists may find many varieties of quartz in these rocks. [2J m. A road mounts 1. for Watendiath, 5 m. from Keswick, one of the most secluded and primi¬ tive villages in the Lake district. “A lowly vale, but yet uplifted high Among the mountains.” Near it is a tarn from which issues the stream of the Lodore Fall. Watendiath may be reached by a road behind Barrow House, which is con¬ tinued by the side of the stream which flows from the tarn to Lodore. The village contains only a few cot¬ tages, and there is probably no part of the district where the inhabitants live so completely secluded. The tarn is bordered by meadows, and surrounded with wild and barren hills. The botanist may find here Habenaria albida and H. viridis. A pedestrian may cross Wythburn Fells, a moor which separates Thirl- | mere from Borrowdale, and descend upon the lake at Armboth, 4 m. On a fine autumnal day, when the peat mosses are dry, there are few finer walks, but as there is no defined track it would be prudent to take a guide from Rosthwaite. The views of Thirlmere and of Helvellyn in the descent to the lake are extremely fine.] Just beyond this fork Barrow House, 2^ m., is passed, in the grounds of which is the Barrow Fall, a cascade 121 ft. high, and scarcely inferior to any in the district. 1 m. beyond Barrow House is Lodore Inn (comfortable and reason¬ able). The celebrated waterfall and the fine scenery of Borrowdale makes this spot a favourite resort. The fall is approached through the garden of the inn. If there should be much water the scene will recall the well- known amusing lines of Southey— “How does the water come down at Lodore ? ” from which a few lines may be quoted—- ‘ ‘ How does the water come down at Lodore ? Here it comes sparkling, And there it lies darkling ; Here smoking and frothing, Its tumult and wrath in, It hastens along, conflictingly strong; Now striking and raging, as if a war waging, In caverns and rocks among. Rising and leaping, Sinking and creeping, Swelling and flinging, Showering and springing, Eddying and whisking, Spouting and frisking, Turning and twisting Around and around; Collecting, disjecting, With endless rebound; Smiting and fighting— A sight to delight in; Confounding, astounding, Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound. And so never ending, but always de¬ scending, Sounds and motions for ever and ever are blending, All at once and all o’er, with a mighty uproar,— And in this way the water comes down at Lodore.” 74 Route 14 .— Lodore — Rorrowdale. The fall descends through a chasm between the two perpendicular rocks, Gowder Crag on the E. and Shep¬ herd’s Crag on the W. The sides are clothed with oak, ash, and birch. The water dashes over fragments of rocks piled on each other, but in no place, unless after heavy rain, does it descend more than a few yards at a leap. Paths lead to a smaller and higher fall which is very picturesque, though much less visited, and so out at the head of this romantic ravine into the Watendlath road. The stream flows from Watendlath, and when heavy rains have augmented its volume it precipitates itself furi¬ ously over the barrier above, roaring so as to be heard, it is said, for a distance of 10 miles, and “ scattering the foam of its wrath far and wide.” The height of the fall at its best is about 100 ft. In summer, however, there is often scarce water enough to do more than wet the stones. The river Derwent enters the lake nearly in front of the Lodore Inn. A considerable tract of marshy ground here rather disfigures the lake; and near Lodore there occasionally ap¬ pears in dry weather the singular phenomenon of the floating island. It is simply a network of tangled weeds, which, rendered buoyant by gas evolved from decayed vegetable matter, rises and floats on the surface. It has been known to remain there for months, and has sometimes at¬ tained the size of half an acre, with a thickness of 4 ft. In substance it is not unlike a mass of peat bog. The gas is highly inflammable. About | m. beyond the Lodore Inn is the new and handsome Borrowdale Hotel. (Omnibus to Keswick half- a-dozen times a day.) Borrowdale is one of the most beautiful valleys of the Lake District. It is bounded at the head by a noble group of moun¬ tains wflth varying outlines, but gene¬ rally of a bold character, the sides are cleft by ravines, and the head of the valley contracts into narrow de¬ files. The lower parts of the valley possess a great diversity of rock and w r ood, and the colouring and forms of the knolls and promontories are emi¬ nently picturesque. The river that runs through it, sometimes called Derwent River, sometimes Borrow¬ dale Beck, is of crystalline pureness, and flows now brightly over pebbles, now settles into deep transparent pools. Two of its head streams rise on Bow Fell within \ m. of each other, and then diverge, the one to the N.N.E., the other to theN.N.W., until they are 2 m. apart, and they then gradually converge at Ros- thwaite, 4J m. N. of their source. The two streams are separated during the earlier part of their course by the range of Glaramara. The eastern one is flanked on the rt. by the Stake and Eagle Crag; it first receives a tributary from the glen of Greenup, and then descends between Glaramara on the 1. and a range of fells on the rt., past the hamlet of Stonethwaite to the commencement of Borrowdale proper at Rosthwaite. A foot-path leads from its higher part over the Stake into Great Langdale; another leads up Greenup, past White Stones, into Easdale, and thence to Gras¬ mere. The western head stream is flanked at first by the mountains of Great End and Aaron End, then is joined at Stockley Bridge by a brook coming down from Sty Head; it next passes the hamlet of Seathwaite and the black-lead mine, and then at the farm of Seatoller is joined on the 1. by the glen of Borrowdale Hause, and passes into the general vale of Borrowdale. The united stream re¬ ceives thenceforward no tributaries but rills, and pursues a sinuous course to Derwentwater. The basin of the Derwent contains about 2000 acres of good land, chiefly pasture. The Eastern head glen of the valley has a romantic character, and is made more interesting by the bold rock of Eagle Crag, w r hich commands a fine view into the vale below Stonethwaite. 75 Route 14 .— Castle Crag—Eagle Crag * The Western head glen is also full of character, Great End rising grandly above it. Beyond the Borrowdale Hotel, and a little off the road 1., are the Fish Breeding Ponds, which may he visited. m. a bridge is now seen rt., cross¬ ing the river to Grange, which de¬ rives its name from having been the place where the monks of Furness, who owned considerable property in Borrowdale, stored their corn. It forms, with its pretty bridge and wood-crowned heights, a charming picture. There are a few small lodging-houses in the village. Just across the bridge is a good specimen of glacier-rounded rock (roclie mou- tonnee). The gorge of Borrowdale is so narrow as apparently to terminate a very short distance above Grange, but a good road traverses the valley, overhung in many places by beetling crags, intermixed with shrubs, trees, and grassy knolls. The cause of this fertility is the character of the rock, which is of igneous origin, not unlike basalt, which accounts for the frac¬ tured and irregular character of the valley. In some places the disinte¬ gration of the cliffs is so great that huge masses frequently fall after frosts, and their sides are covered with debris. 5 m. the Boulder or Bowder Stone, amass of metamorphic rock, 62 ft. long and 36 ft. in height, and weighing nearly 2000 tons, is believed by many to have been de¬ posited in its present position by a glacier in a remote geological epoch (see Introduction, p. xviii.); but in the opinion of the late Rev. J. C. Ward, of the Geological Survey, it has simply fallen from the heights above. It is curiously poised—some¬ what like the Clach-an-Ulaidh on the R. Nairn—and it commands a delightful prospect. Castle Crag is an eminence rising midway in the jaws of Borrowdale, nearly opposite to the Bowder Stone, and on it, according to tradition, the Romans had a fortress which com¬ manded the pass of Borrowdale. No trace of any such fortification now remains, although it is said to have been garrisoned from Furness as late as the 16th cent. The crag should be ascended for the beautiful view which it commands of the whole of Borrowdale. 100 years ago there was only a pack-road through this romantic valley. Hay was carried on the backs of horses, and continued to be so long after a carriage-road had been made. 6| m. Rosthwaite, $ 1£ m. beyond the Bowder Stone. A day may be well passed here to enjoy the beauties of the upper part of Borrowdale, Stonethwaite, and Seathwaite. The valley above Rosthwaite separates into 3 branches, one of extreme beauty leading by the Stake Pass into Langdale, another by the Sty Head (from “ Stui,” Norse for ladder—the Ladder Head, a significant name) to Wasdale, the third by Seatoller and Honister Crag to Buttermere. The last is practicable for cars; the two first may be traversed by ponies. Near the head of the Valley of Stonethwaite, at its junction with the valley of Langstrath, looking like 2 huge square-cut steps is seen Eagle Crag, a lofty cliff long the haunt of the eagles which once abounded in Borrowdale. Eagle Crag, from its inaccessible precipices, was long occupied by these birds with impunity, but men let down by ropes from the top of the cliff at length found means of taking the eggs or destroying the young. Eagles have long disappeared from the Lake district and buzzards and hawks are now the only birds of prey, although a falcon is occasionally seen and ravens are found on many of the fells, and occasionally attack lambs. The depredation committed by eagles was formerly very great. After passing the entrance to the 76 Monte 14 .— Seatoller — Seathwaite. Stonethwaite Valley, the Derwent is crossed, and soon (8 m.) Seatoller, a low whitewashed building, where lodgings may be had, comes into sight. Just short of it, however, at a turn of the road, there is a gate on the 1. The main road goes on over Honister to Buttermere (Rte. 17). A smaller but still good road goes through the gate and past the famous Borrowdale yews, “ Beneath whose sable roof Of boughs, as if for festal purpose decked With unrejoicing berries, ghostly shapes May meet at noontide, there to celebrate, As in a natural temple scattered o’er With altars undisturbed of mossy stone, United worship, or in mute repose To lie and listen to the mountain flood Murmuring from Glaramara’s inmost caves.” — Wordsworth. and the still more famous plumbago mine (both on the hillside rt.), to 9| m. Seathwaite, a poor hamlet, where refreshments of a simple kind may be procured. The Valley of Seathwaite has a greater rainfall than, with one excep¬ tion, any other part in Europe where a rain-gauge has been kept, 160 in. having been registered in 12 months. The mean annual rainfall is 140 in., that at the Sty being 165 in. as compared with 59 in. at Keswick, and 24 in London and Edinburgh. In the course of one month (February, 1848) the enormous quantity of 30 in. of rain was registered at Sea¬ thwaite ; but on Sprinkling Fell, 1J m. from Seathwaite in a S.E. direction, and 580 feet above it, one- third more rain falls than even at Seathwaite. The debris of the plumbago mine is conspicuous on the hillside opposite Seathwaite. After having been for a long period a source of great wealth, it was abandoned. An adit was in 1863 driven into the mountain at a lower level than on any former work¬ ing, but without any satisfactory result. In 1887, a new company having been formed, a large water¬ wheel was erected, and some of the old levels cleared out. The original deposit occurred in a grey felspar porphyry, and was not found in continuous veins, but in “ sops ” or “ bellies,” the connection between which could be traced with difficulty. The wad was extracted from the mine in pieces of irregular shape and various sizes; it was then assorted according to its different degrees of purity. The mineral was so valuable that special laws were enacted for its protection, and an Act of Parliament made it felony to enter the mine and take away any of the wad. This is made the subject of one of James Payn’s early stories. One of the largest “ sops ” produced 500 casks, weighing 1| cwt. each, and worth 30s. per lb. The price afterwards rose to 45s. per lb. Pure graphite is an intermediate substance between charcoal and the diamond, and when burnt leaves a small residuum of iron. At Seathwaite the car-road ceases, but a bridle-road continues up the valley and leads to the Sty Head Pass. At Stockley Bridge, £ m., the valley divides; that to the rt. is the Sty Head route, which ascends the hill by a zigzag path. [The valley to the 1., Grains Gill, is the most direct way for pedestrians to the summit of Scafell Pike; but the path by Sty Head and Sprinkling Tarn, and passing under Great End, is the most interesting. The stream in this valley descends from Allen Crag, a continuation of Glaramara. The line of the ascent is over Esk Hause top, 2488 ft. above the sea, from which the views are of extra¬ ordinary beauty. On the one side is Sprinkling Tarn, with Great Gable towering above it: and on the other the picturesque mass of Bowfell, with the Langdale Pikes; Borrowdale is seen below. The continuation of the ascent is by the foot of Great End, the N. base of the Scafell range, on reaching which there is a tolerably defined path with directing stones, Route 15 ,—Keswick to Bassenthwaite. 77 which are continued to the top of the Pike. Huge blocks of stone and debris cover a large portion of the track, and the fatigue of clambering over them is not inconsiderable, hut. in other respects the route is unattended with difficulty, and is in some respects to he preferred to any other. The views into Borrowdale and Wasdale, which are occasionally caught during the ascent, are most striking. On Scafell the botanist will find Salix herbacea, Statice armeria, Oxyria reniformis, Silene acaulis, Saxifraga oppositifolia, Thalictrum alpinum and Rhodolia rosea.] A rough hut well-defined path now mounts, very steeply at first, with Taylor’s Gill Force among the trees on the rt. This stream descends from Sty Head Tarn, 1 m. from the fork of the valleys. The pass is now plainly seen beyond the head of the Tarn, and beyond the Pass rises Lingmell Crag, with the top of Piers Gill just visible below it. 11| m. The top of the Pass, 1600 ft., is reached J m. after leaving 1. the foot of the Tarn. The descent is very rough for about 1 m., but Great Gable (rt.) and the great recess on the 1., which lies be¬ tween Lingmell, the Pikes and Great End, form a picture which will not readily fade from the memory. The long slopes of scree on Gable, out of wdiich the fine rocks of Great Napes start up like a row of organ-pipes, contrast w r ell with the green though rocky amphitheatre on the other side, cleft by the ravines of Piers Gill and Greta Gill. The latter after really wet weather is a grand waterfall. The road used to run on the other side of the stream, and the grass- grown track, though not so easily followed, is much pleasanter walking than the loose and sharp fragments which form the surface of the present track. At Burnthwaite, the first house, a farmyard must be passed through, and then after J m. between stone walls, and after leaving the little ch. on the 1., the traveller reaches 14 m. Wasdale Head. (See Rte. 22). ROUTE 15. FROM KESWICK — A. TO BASSEN¬ THWAITE; ASCENT OF SKIDDAW ; B. TO ST. JOHN’S VALE; ASCENT OF SADDLEBACK. Ascent of Skiddaw (3059 ft,)— “ who shrouds His double front amidst Atlantic clouds, And pours forth streams more sweet than Castaly.” This alludes to a suggested derivation of the name from slcidr, old Norse, signifying a separation or division: thus making it equivalent to the divided or two-fold mountain.-)* It can be easily ascended in about 2J hrs. The summit is distant from Keswick 6 m. The charge for a guide is 5s. A long but excellent way of seeing Skiddaw is to make for the foot of Bassenthwaite Water by road, rail or boat, thence to ascend the mountain and come down by way of Latrigg, which is used for both ascent and descent by almost every one, though in this way the views diminish in interest as you advance. A horse can go the whole way, which is a powerful attraction to many, though a Cumbrian bard f Others consider a Celtic jerivation more probable and point to the adj. “ dliu,” i.e. blacb a forming part of the word. 78 Route 15 .—Ascent of Skiddaw, scornfully declares that it is a childish feat ‘ * to dim oop Skidda’ side ; Auld wives and barnes on jackasses To t’ tippy top raa’ ride! ” The route to the foot of the moun¬ tain is by the Cockermouth road, striking off to the rt. from the Cross- thwaite Sunday-school, or from the hack of the rly. station, making for Spooney Green farmhouse, and pro¬ ceeding along the W. slope of Latrigg, where there is a good bridle-path, from which the views of Derwent- water and Bassenthwaite are ex¬ quisite. On leaving Latrigg, a ravine which separates that spur of Skiddaw from the mountain is crossed. Making now a short descent to the 1., the second and more laborious stage of the ascent commences. A small re¬ freshment house, about 1 m. distant, affords an excellent guiding point, and it is easily reached by following the direction of the wall in front. From the refreshment hut the track is well defined to the summit. From the steepest part of the slope a fine view of Derwentwater is attained, and the lake is seen in its whole extent; indeed, the views from this part of the mountain are preferred by many to those from the summit. After surmounting the more abrupt slope, a plain about 1 m. in extent intervenes before the mountain-top is reached, which is indicated by a pile of stones erected by the Ordnance Surveyors. The summit commands a panorama 300 m. in circumference. From Keswick to the top of Skiddaw the barometer falls 3 in. The counties of Cumberland and Westmorland are defined sometimes to their minutest features. To the N. is the Solway Frith, Criffel Mountain in Scotland, and the Cheviots; to the W. is the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man, Grassmoor and Grisedale Pike: on the S. Hel- vellyn, Scafell, and the Fells of Borrowdale, “ a turbulent chaos of dark mountains,” beyond which are caught glimpses of Morecambe Bay, the Mouth of the Duddon, and of the sea; on the E. is Crossfell, and, be¬ tween it and Helvellyn, Ingleborough, in Yorkshire. The houses and corn¬ fields of the Scottish coast are some¬ times clearly distinguishable, with mountains rising above mountains in the distance. To enumerate all that can be seen from the top of Skiddaw would be to catalogue nearly all the mountains of Cumberland and West¬ morland, and some others far beyond them. Windermere cannot be seen. In looking in the direction of that lake, through the gap of Dunmail Baise, the estuary of the Kent be¬ low Milnthorpe is sometimes visible. Penrith may be faintly seen to the E., with Brougham Castle and Hall. Bas¬ senthwaite appears very close, as do the puffing rly. trains on the Cocker- mouth and Keswick line which skirts the lakes, but Derwentwater is con¬ cealed by an elbow of the mountain, which makes the view from the sum¬ mit, grand as it is, inferior in a pic¬ turesque point of view to the one from its slope. A complete bird’s- eye view of Derwentwater, however, is obtained from the third “ Man,” as one of the minor eminences is called. The extent of the view is, of course, determined by the state of the atmo¬ sphere, which is seldom favourable. It is a prospect extending as far as the eye can reach, but the distance is often dim and indistinct. It is often piercingly cold at the top when the heat is considerable in the vale below. Skiddaw is composed of a dark blue slaty schist, intersected in many places with veins of quartz. “ The slate, particularly in the lower part of the mountain, has been metamor¬ phosed and mineralised by the long- continued action of subterranean heat, for the granite has broken out near the base, particularly at Svnin Gill, between Saddleback and Skid¬ daw, and at a nearer level near the Caldew, in the channel of which it maybe seen for more than a mile.” 79 Route 15 .—Bassenthwaite Lake—Reel WyTce, — Sedgwicli. The beautiful colouring of the mosses, lichens, and heaths will not escape notice. On Skiddaw and its slopes are found Salix herbacea, Narthecium ossifragum, or bog as¬ phodel ; on the slopes, Carex rigida, Saxifraga aizoides, Saxifraga stel- laris, Viola lutea, Calluna vulgaris, Vaccinium myrtilies (bilberry) ; and on the summit, Vitis idaea (red whor¬ tleberry). The best period of the day for ascending Skiddaw must of course depend upon the state of the weather. As a rule, the early morning is to he preferred, and generally, the sooner a tourist is on the top after the sun has risen, the better. The atmosphere is never so transparent or the colour¬ ing so fine as after one of those summer floods which, sometimes last¬ ing for 2 or 3 days, often severely try the patience of tourists; hut a drizzling morning may not be un¬ favourable for an ascent, and the guides are very good judges of the probability of the weather clearing up. If they should speak encourag¬ ingly, the tourist, notwithstanding appearances, should not hesitate ; and he may be gratified by a spectacle w r hich he will not speedily forget. When he has accomplished perhaps half the ascent the mists will suddenly disperse, and the whole magnificent panorama will be flooded with daz¬ zling sunshine. A portion of the fatigue of the ascent may be saved by taking a car to Millbeck, 2 m., passing Underscar, by w r hich the circuitous route by Latrigg will be saved, and the ascent commence about 1 m. below the re¬ freshment-house on the lower slope of Skiddaw\ Bassenthwaite Lake $ (formerly called Broadwater), 3 m. N.E. of Keswick, is not so much visited as it deserves to be. Its shores do not possess the variety and grandeur of Derwentwater, but the richly-w r ooded banks on the W. side of the lake, with Skiddaw towering above the other, give it many attractions. The lake is 3f m. long, and at its N. ex¬ tremity 1 m. in breadth; at its lower end it is little more than J m. The E. side is indented with three bavs; opposite is a ridge of steep hills, which sink abruptly to the water's edge, and are clothed to their base with wood. A good mode of seeing the lake is to proceed along its E. shore to Armathwaite ; a road to the 1. leads to Braidness, one of the promontories which, with Bowness on the S. and Scarness on the N., form the three bays. 4 The road then leaves the lake. A pedestrian may take the path to the 1. near the little ch. of Bassenthwaite, and thus see more of its banks than if he only followed the road. A good view is obtained from the Castle Inn, 7 m. 4 m. beyond, on the Wigton road, near which is the small tarn called Overwater, one of the sources of the river Ellen, which flows into the Irish sea at Maryport. It is famed for its trout. Armathwaite Hall is finely situated amidst woods at the head of the lake. A good road leads round the head of the lake to Ouse Bridge, 1 m. from which is Peel Wyke. Here is a small Inn (the Pheasant) on the Cockermouth road, and close to it the Bassenthwaite Stat. of the Cocker- mouth, Keswick, and Penrith Rly. The lake may perhaps be best seen by taking the rly. from Keswick to the Bassenthwaite Stat., where a boat can be procured, and by rowing for about 2 or 3 m. up the lake a good idea may be obtained of its general character. The scenery on the old coach-road from l Peel Wyke to Keswick is de¬ lightfully varied, and the occasional glimpses of the lake, of Skiddaw, and of the Vale of Bassenthwaite through the woods are charming. At Wythop the lake is seen as an ex¬ panded and noble sheet of water. A ride or drive on the old Cockermouth road will afford much pleasure. 80 Porti a scale — The Portinscale, $ 14 m. from Keswick. A post-office. There are a few good lodging-houses, and from the fine views which it commands of Der- wentwater and Borrowdale this place is often preferred as a temporary residence to Keswick. The Vale of St. John, a modern name which has supplanted Buresdale. This beautiful valley is 4 m. from Keswick. The rly. may be taken to Threlkeld, 3 m., a small village lying directly under Saddleback, but the old coach-road must he taken to en¬ able a tourist to visit the so-called Druidical Circle, If m. from Keswick, in a field on the rt. of the road on the crown of the hill. It consists of a number of upright stones, the largest 7| ft. high, all of lava or volcanic ash, probably carried down by glaciers from the hills which stand to the S., and differing in size. The space is 97 ft. from E. to W., and 107 from N. to S. On the E. side is a small rectangular enclosure, regarded as an inner shrine by those who hold that these structures were designed as temples. It measures 22 ft. by 11 feet, and may be com¬ pared with the internal avenues not uncommon in Scotch circles. Others, again, consider that it marks the place of an interment. The Vale of St. John is shut in by lofty hills. Through it runs the fine stream of St. John’s Beck (the Bure), which issues from Thirlmere, and effects a junction with the Glendera- makin at the bridge a little below Threlkeld, after which it soon be¬ comes the Greta. The banks of St. John’s Beck are wooded, and the meadows are studded with neat farm¬ houses. The upper portion of the river is the very perfection of a trout- stream, flowing over rocks and with deeps and shallows in succession. The Vale is “ enchanted ground,” and there is a singular legend connected with it. In Sir Walter Scott's ‘ Bridal Vale of St. John. of Triermain ’ the Castle Rock (as it is now generally called in place of the older name, Green Crag), at the further end of the valley, is the fairy castle supposed to be seen by King Arthur on his way to Carlisle. The crag, which at a distance bears a striking resemblance to a castle perched on a height, is found on ap¬ proaching it to be a mass of symme¬ trically-arranged rocks. The legend is that an enchanted castle is trans¬ formed into a pile of rocks whenever it is approached by mortal footsteps. “ No tower or fortress can lie spy, Darkening against the morning sky; But, on the spot where once they frowned, The lonely streamlet brawls around ; A tufted knoll where, dimly shown, Fragments of rock and rifted stone, Paled in by many a lofty hill, The narrow dale lay smooth and still, And down its verdant bosom led, A wandering brooklet found its bed. But midmost of the vale a mound Arose, with airy turrets crowned, Buttress and ramparts circling bound, And mighty keep and tower. Seemed some primaeval giant’s hand The castle’s massive walls had planned, A pondrous bulwark to withstand Ambitious Nimrod’s power.” There are people now living in the vale who believe the Castle Rock to be an antediluvian structure. Lying directly under Saddleback is a farm-house, the remains of Threl¬ keld Hall, once a mansion of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, a powerful Border knight. He used to boast that he possessed three noble houses,—one for pleasure, Crosby in Westmor¬ land, where he had a park well stocked with deer ; one for profit and warmth, Yanwath, near Penrith; and one, Threlkeld, well stocked with tenants to go with him to the wars. At the end of the vale, and a little beyond the Castle Rock, is Naddle Fell, a fine wooded rock rising abruptly from the river; the hill beyond is Great How, a conspicuous feature in the scenery of Thirlmere. The Vale of St. John was visited bv a frightful inundation in 1749. J n Route 15 .— Saddleback—-Bowscale Tarn. The inhabitants, during a sultry August day, suddenly heard a strange noise in the air or on the mountains. It continued, although all was still around, like a mighty rushing wind, for two hours, when suddenly a tem¬ pest of extraordinary violence broke over Helvellyn, the sides of which immediately resembled a roaring cataract. Vast boulders were swept down from its summit and slopes into the valley below, and some of the rocks brought down by the flood could only be moved by 12 horses. Saddleback or Blencathra (2817 ft.) is a grand mountain and well deserves an ascent. The shortest and most interesting route is from Threl- keld. Proceeding § m. along the Penrith road, cross a stream dis¬ coloured by a lead mine just above (1.), and, quitting the high road by a gate a few yards beyond, strike up the fell, keeping the aforesaid stream 1. and follow the ridge. It gradually becomes narrow and rocky, and leads direct to the summit. By this way no mistake can occur even on the fog¬ giest day. The views from the summit do not differ much from those of Skiddaw, the bases of the two moun¬ tains touching each other; but the peculiar form of Blencathra, its deep gorges and stern precipices, make the ascent one of much interest and some little excitement. The sides are scarred by ravines, and strewn with debris, the effects of waterspouts breaking upon what was once the smooth grassy side of the mountain. The route most commonly taken is that which Southey suggests : “ The tourist who would enjoy, the scenery of Blencathra should proceed about G miles along the Penrith road, then take the road that leads to Hesket New Market, and presently ascend by a shepherd’s path which winds up the side of the ravine. This route is somewhat further than that from Threlkeld. The road or path is 1 m. from the village of Scales, and follows [English Lakes.] 81 the stream of the Glenderamakin, which flows from Scales or Threlkeld Tarn, then proceeds up the side of Souter Fell.’'— Southey. At the base of an enormous rock, called Tarn Crag, is Scales Tarn, which from the darkness of its water has been ab¬ surdly said ( e.g . by Scott) to reflect the stars at noon. 3 m. from Scales Tarn is Bowscale Tarn, through which flows a tributary of the Caldew. Con¬ nected with this tarn is the legend of the two immortal fish referred to by Wordsworth in his ‘Feast of Brougham Castle.’ “ Both the undying fish that swim In Bowscale Tarn did wait on him; The pair were servants of his eye In their immortality; They moved about in open sight, To and fro for his delight.” The allusion is to Henry Lord Clifford, “ the Shepherd Lord,” who in the wars of the Poses owed his life, after his father’s fall on the bloody field of Ferrybridge, to his concealment among these mountains. He was brought up as a shepherd until he came of age. The story is told by Southey in his ‘ Colloquies,’ and by Wordsworth in his poem. The father of Henry Lord Clifford was John Lord Clifford, the formid¬ able Lancastrian noble who slew the young Earl of Rutland at the battle of Wakefield, which was the cause of his falling into such odium with the partisans of the House of York that they would in retaliation have killed young Clifford, if they could have caught him. John Lord Clifford was the “ black-faced Clifford ” of Shak- speare:— “Not when my father York and Edward wept To hear the piteous moan that Rutland made When black-faced Clifford shook his sword at him.”— Mich. III., act 1, scene 2. The young Clifford is supposed to have been brought up at a farmhouse somewhere in the neighbourhood of G 82 Itoide 16 .—Kesiviclc to Patterdale timt Ultswatci *. Threlkeld; he was only 7 years old at the time of his father’s death, and obtained possession of his property and honours soon after Henry VII. was seated on the throne. He had never been taught to read or write, but nevertheless spoke in Parliament with much wisdom and discretion. His tastes were strongly inclined to rural life, and he passed the greater portion of his time in the country, attending to his estates, and super¬ intending the reparation of his castles. He died at Brougham Castle, a.d. 1523, aged 70. His mother married Sir Lancelot Threlkeld. The knight aided in the concealment of the young lord, who was brought up as a shep¬ herd, “ Well pleased in rustic garb to feed His flock, and pipe on shepherd’s reed, Among this multitude of hills, Crags, woodlands, waterfalls, and rills.” “ Love had he found in huts where poor men lie, His daily teachers had been woods and rills, The silence that is in the starry Sky, The sleep that is atnong the lonely hills. “ In him the savage virtue of the race* ltevenge and all ferocious thoughts, were dead; Hor did he change, but kept in lofty place The wisdom which adversity had bred.” A singular and well-attested atmo¬ spheric phenomenon was observed on Saddleback in the last century. On Midsummer Eve, 1745, it appeared covered with troops who defiled over it for more than an hour, and dis¬ appeared in a crevice near the sum¬ mit. The explanation of the phe¬ nomenon was that on the evening in question some mounted partizans of the Stuarts were exercising on the western coast, and their movements were refracted by some peculiar con¬ dition of the atmosphere upon the summit of Saddleback. There is a tradition of a spectral army, probably originating in some similar cause, having been seen marching over Helvellyn on the eve of the battle of Marston Moor :— “ Anon appears a brave, a gorgeous show Of horsemen—shadows moving to ana fro ; At intervals imperial banners stream, And now the van reflects the solar beam ; While silent stands the admiring crowd below, Silent the visionary warriors go, Winding in ordered pomp their upward way, Till the last banner of their long array Has disappeared, and every trace is fled Of splendour—save the mountain’s lofty head Tipped with eve’s latest gleam of burning red.”— Wordsworth » POUTE 16. KESWICK TO PATTERDALE AND ULLS- WATER— 1. BY TROUTBECK, 16 ill.; 2. by PENRITH; 30 m.; 3. by the STICKS PASS, Hill. Should the tourist be desirous of proceeding to Ullswater from Kes¬ wick, he can either take the rly. to Penrith (18 m.) and the coach thence to Pooley Bridge at the foot of the lake (Rte. 26), or stopping at the Troutbeck Stat. (p. 110), take the coach thence to Patterdale, by Matter- dale, and Dockray, entering the high road from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale a little to the rt. of Lyulph's Tower ; or a pedestrian may take a shorter mountain path from Wanthwaite at the entrance of St.John’s Vale which will enable him to join the last route at Dockray. Lastly he may cross the ridge of Helvellyn by the Sticks Pass. The road by Dockray pre¬ sents some exceedingly fine scenery. In the course of the descent from the high ground perhaps the finest and iJpPi Sy»t -fi t v Sh^vvmtea ■£ *t>W "S' ion don: Join Murray, Albemarle Street. . . Moute 17.— Ke&wiclc to Crum i most perfect view of Ullswater is to be obtained. 1. By Troutbeek $ (20 mins, rail) to Patterdale (1 hr. by coach). This is a very popular excursion, through tickets being issued by the rly. company, and return tickets available for 7 days. The train leaves Keswick at 9.45 a.m. and is met by waggonettes, which carry the pas¬ sengers over a desolate moorland only varied by the dull mass called Mell Fell (1.) to Dockray.$ After this comes an extremely interesting de¬ scent upon Ullswater. The pretty waterfall of Araforce lies 200 yds. 1., about 1 m. beyond Dockray, and should be visited en route. The line mountain seen on the opposite side of the lake is Place Fell. The road now follows the shore under Sty- barrow Crag (of which the photo¬ graphs are so familiar) to the Ulls¬ water Hotel; the other hotels and the village of Patterdale are 1 m farther on. [For Ullswater and Patterdale see Rte. 26.] 2. By Penrith and Pooley Bridge —This route involves 8 m. more rail, but a shorter coach-road, and that through a much more pleasing country. While losing the magnifi¬ cent descent upon Ullswater, it has a great advantage in giving the splendid voyage up the lake from end to end. From Penrith to Patterdale it is fully described in Rte. 26. 3. By the Sticks Pass. —5 m. from Keswick along the Ambleside road and | m. after crossing Smeathwaite Br. the road from Threlkeld unites. At this point a gill is seen descend¬ ing the side of the Helvellyn range, and to the rt. of it a track, which lower down crosses to the other bank and reaches a conspicuous farm 200 or 300 yds. from the road. This track must be followed, and at first is ioctc Wetter aiict Buttermere. 89 perfectly clear, but in foggy weather the wide stretch of comparatively flat moor on the top is very puzzling, owing to the absence of natural land¬ marks. Stakes set upright in piles of stones have been placed as guides, and in all ordinary weather there is no difficulty whatever. The descent is by the Greenside lead mine, passing the reservoir rt. about 1 m. from the summit. After another mile the Glenridding path to Helvellyn is entered, and thence it is only 1| m. to the Ullswater Hotel. The road is on the 1. bank of the stream, but there is also a path on the other side. This is not a frequented pass, nor are the views from it such as to recom¬ mend it much. The height is 2420 ft. ROUTE 17. KESWICK TO CRUMMOCK WATER AND BUTTERMERE—1. BY WHIN- LATTER AND SWINSIDE, 14lll.; 2. BY THE VALE OF NEWLANDS, 9 111. ; 3. BY BORROWDALE AND HONISTER CRAG, 14 111. Coaches every morning at 10 to Buttermere by route (3.) and return¬ ing by route (2). Fare 5s. all the way. This is the most popular drive in Cumberland, and the finest. There is no public conveyance from Keswick to Cruinmock foot. There are 3 roads:—1. over Whin- latter to Scale Hill, 10 m.; 2. by the vale of Newlands to Buttermere, 9 m.; 3. by Borrowdale over Honister Crag to Buttermere, 14 m. The shortest route to Crummock is over Whin- latter, taking the first turning to the G 2 84 Route 17 .—Crummoclc Water—Scale Force. 1. after the descent begins, and passing the hamlet of Swinside. The views from Whinlatter are exceedingly fine, embracing a great extent of sea and land. The “ steeps and Alpine passes of Whinlatter ” are glowingly de¬ scribed by a writer of 1794, as the realisation of scenes in “ Rasselas.” “ Whole summits (he proceeds) are not to he reached by the traveller's eye, who passes so immediately under them, as they rise almost perpen¬ dicularly.” 10 m. Scale Hill Hotel. A few minutes from the “ Station ’’ — a hill in Lanthwaite Wood, from which there is a magnificent view of Crummock Water and of the moun¬ tains which encircle it. A path cut through the woods leads down to Crummock Water. $ The banks are generally hare, hut at its N.W. end they are finely wooded. Bold and rugged hills rise on both sides, and the scenery at the head of the lake approaches sublimity. There is a deep seclusion in the situation of this lake which adds much to its charms. It is 2;j m. in length, § m. in breadth. In its deepest parts it is 20 fathoms, and it seldom freezes. The islands are too near the shores to add much to its beauty. Looking up the lake from its lower end two promontories appear to divide it into two reaches. The mountains Whiteless Pike, Lad- house, and Grassmoor flank the E. side down from Rannerdale Knot. Whiteside and Low Fell at the head of the Vale of Lorton, the former on the E. side, the latter on the W., though somewhat below the foot of the lake, enter into the prospect. The mountains of Buttermere also, High Stile, Haystacks, Honister Crag, and the summits of the mountains beyond them—viz., Great Gable, Kirk Fell, Great End, and Scafell, figure grandly in the views from the lake or from its northern shores. A point about 25 yards above the promontory of Melbreak commands the whole of both Buttermere and Crummock Lakes. The best general views are from a rocky point on the E. side of the lake, called the Hause ; from a promontory below Melbreak called Ling Crag; from the road between Scale Hill and Loweswater ; but more especially from the end of a carriage- drive opposite the hotel, through the wood, in which openings have been cut. Trout and char abound in the lake, but the trout are not so fine as those of Windermere and Derwentwater. The angling is un¬ certain, and it is late in the spring before the fish will rise, owing to the coldness of the water. Char are seldom taken with the fly. The two principal mountains which shut in Crummock Water are Grassmoor, on its E., and Melbreak on its W. side. Whiteless Pike, Robinson, Ranner¬ dale Knot, Fleetwith Pike, Honister Crag, Red Pike, High Stile, the Haystacks (supposed to be an old Norse name, viz. Heystackr, or, as some think, only a corruption of Highstacks), and Great Gable, all contribute more or less to the scenery. The general character of Crummock is that of bold and naked grandeur. A boat-house belonging to the inn is reached by a pretty walk of § m. through the wood; the boat should be taken for an excursion on the lake. Scale Force. The fall is on the W. side of the lake, about 3 m. from Scale Hill, and about 1 m. from the lake. It is the loftiest waterfall in Cumberland and Westmorland, the descent of the water being 120 ft. in a single leap. It lies in a hollow on the side of Red Pike, and the torrent enters the gorge as it were through the shaft of a mine. The quantity of water is not consider¬ able unless after heavy rain, when the torrent descending from so great a height raises a cloud of spray from the hasin into which it falls. Masses of syenite, “ black, drizzling crags,” rise perpendicularly and expose deep Route 17 .—•Lorton Vale — Buttermere. 85 clefts and crevices in their sides, from which shrubs and trees project, giving an extremely solemn character to the scene. Lorton Vale. An excursion to this valley may he made from Scale Hill. The road from Keswick to Scale Hill, over Whinlatter, leaves the Vale of Lorton on the rt., until within a short distance of Scale Hill, when it enters it. The upper part may be visited from Scale Hill. The scenery is pleasing, but not par¬ ticularly striking. Cultivated fields with wooded knolls, neat homesteads and cottages, form a pretty combina¬ tion. 2 m. from Scale Hill is the celebrated yew-tree— “ Pride of Lorton Vale, Which to this day stands, single, in the midst Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore; Of vast circumference and gloom profound This solitary tree, a living thing Produced too slowly ever to decay; Of form and aspect too magnificent To be destroyed.” It is at High Lorton, J m. from the village of Lorton. At Lorton is a curious old mansion, Lorton Hall; the date 1663. The castellation, how¬ ever, is of the 19th cent. The Cocker runs through the Vale of Lorton, and effects a junction with the Derwent at Cockermouth. A fine view down the Vale is obtained from Melbreak. Grassmoor, the mountain which rises directly over the Scale Hill road to Buttermere, forms one of the pro¬ minent features of the views from Crummock Water. It can be easily ascended from Scale Hill. Keswick may be reached by a pedestrian by a fine mountain-walk over Grassmoor and Causey Pike, which will bring him out on the Newlands road, about 2 m. from Portinscale. A quicker route than this is by the valley just N. of Grassmoor, and opposite Lan- thwaite Green. The stream must be followed till a depression is seen in front (Coledale Pass), and the stream makes a sharp turn on the S. In descending from the Pass in foggy weather care must be taken to keep well to the rt., as after about | m. the centre of the valley in front is rendered dangerous by the precipice of Force Crag. Under the crag are the remains of an old mine, from which a good path leads straight down the valley on the 1. bank of the stream to Braithwaite, where rail may be taken to Keswick. 2. Boute from Keswick, by the Vale of Newlands, to Buttermere. —The road through the Vale of Newlands and Buttermere to Crum- mock passes through Portinscale, and a good carriage-road, skirting the southern flank of Swinside, leads to Buttermere. At Pawling End the scenery is very striking, whether looking back upon Skiddaw and the Vale of Keswick, across the valley towards Cat Bells, or up the Vale of Newlands. Above Keskadale, the road ascends steeply under Robinson up to a mountain-wall, which seems to bar further progress ; but a sudden turn of the road, to the rt., reveals a new and striking prospect, and the sharp descent to the village and lake of Buttermere opens up one of the grandest scenes in the Lake district. “ The chain of mountains developed in the descent of the Hause is most magnificent. The appearance of High Stile, and of the scene from Green Crags to Red Pike, is scarcely equalled in Cumberland.”— Wordsworth. The fall called Sourmilk Gill, which issues from Bleaberry Tarn, is a prominent feature. Many of the mountain passes of the Lake district are wild and deso¬ late enough, but the hills here sweep¬ ing gracefully down, without wood, rock, or broken ground of any kind, present a rare scene of pastoral beauty combined with mountain sublimity. Buttermere $ (a Post-office). The lake lies in a hollow formed by Ro¬ binson and Hindscarth, two moun¬ tains which rise abruptly from its 86 Route 17. —-Red PiJce - brink on the E., and by Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike on the W. The dark shadows thrown by the mountains which im¬ pend over this small lake upon its deep and sullen waters give it a singularly gloomy character. It is 1J m. long and about | m. broad, and is separated from Crummock Water by a few meadows. The two lakes are connected by a stream. The path to the 1. of “ The Fish ” leads to a bridge over the river joining Buttermere to Crummock Water; the path on the rt. leads across some fields to the boat-landing on Crum¬ mock, where the tourist can be ferried across the lake to within f m. of Scale Force. Red Pike ought, if possible, to be ascended from Buttermere. There is no track, but the ascent is easy from Scale Force, and occupies about 24 hrs. Nearly half this time may be saved by following up Ruddy Beck, the stream which enters Crum¬ mock Water near its head, for £ m. A ridge is now seen on the 1., by means of which the summit is reached without difficulty. From the sum¬ mit the view comprises the lakes of Loweswater, Ennerdale, Crummock, Buttermere, and part of Derwent- water, including St. Herbert’s Island, the mountains Blake Fell, Melbreak, Revelin, Low Fell, Grassmoor, Lad- house, Skiddaw, Saddleback, Robin¬ son, High Stile, Kirkfell, Great Gable, Pillar, Steeple, Haycocks, and a part of the Black Sail Pass, and the valley of the Liza. If the tourist should only have an hour or two to spare for Buttermere, he cannot employ them better than in ascending Buttermere How, the mountain on the 1. in the direction of Honister Crag. The views, considering the moderate height, are very striking. Buttermere Lake contains char and trout, and the angling is considered good. Hasgngss (Mps, Reed), a pretty -The Scarf Gap Pass, seat on the E. shore of the lake, is embowered in woods. [A pedestrian can reach Wast- water (Rte. 22) from Buttermere by the mountain passes of Scarf Gap and Black Sail in about 3 hrs., and Ennerdale by Scale Force and Flou- tern Tarn, in 2| hrs. There is scarcely any track over the Fells to Ennerdale, and the ground is boggy; conse¬ quently this walk should only be attempted in dry weather. Distance from Buttermere to the inn at the W. end of Ennerdale, G m., divided into 3 nearly equal stages by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn. The direction in case of fog is a shade S. of W., inclining more to the S. when the descent is half done. For Wasdale proceed 2 m. along the Honister Road to Gatesgarth. Here cross the valley towards High Crag, i.e. aiming rt. of the Gap, which is seen ahead. A plain path, very rough in places, slopes up the hillside to The Scarf Gap Pass (1400 ft.), the name compounded of two Scandina¬ vian words, signifying an opening cut among the rocks. The track is well defined, and presents but little difficulty. A little to the rt. is High Crag ; the pass crosses the lowest part of a depression a little to the 1. of its summit. From the top of the pass you look down into Ennerdale, the river Liza flowing through it. Great Gable, Pillar, Steeple, and Kirkfell are the most conspicuous mountains from this point. The track is well marked down the slope of the pass to the bank of the Liza, whence a rough cart-road by the side of the stream leads through Giller- thwaite to the lake and to the “ Angler’s Inn ” at its foot. A good £ m. from this junction towards the head of the valley is the place to cross the river Liza. The bridle-road of the Black Sail Pass is not unfre- quently missed by travellers in this Boute 17 .—Keswick by Borrowdale to Buttermere. 87 direction, who are apt to go too far up the valley. and try to cross between Gable and Kirkfell, whereas Kirkfell should be entirely on the 1. The correct path is now marked by an “ indicator ” pointing up the pass. Formerly a tree, rendered conspicuous by the rarity of trees in Ennerdale, was the best clue. The floor of this valley is strewn with heaps of old moraine matter deposited by ancient glaciers, and now forming grassy hillocks. From the summit (about 1800 ft.) the road descends abruptly into Mosedale, a depression between Pillar, Kirkfell and Yewbarrow, and forming one of the branches of Was- dale. These 2 passes must be traversed in order to appreciate some of the finest and most impressive scenery of Cumberland. The upper part of Ennerdale, with its magnificent mountain-groups, equals any com¬ bination of the kind in the district, and the descent of the Black Sail Pass into Mosedale presents features of great sublimity. These roads can only be taken b^y pedestrians; the accommodation of the small inn at Ennerdale foot is still very limited. It is uncertain whether a tourist would find shelter at that place, fail¬ ing which he would have to proceed from Ennerdale to the rly. stat. at Frizington, 6 m., and thence to Egre- mont or Whitehaven, but at Was- dale Head there is now no lack of accommodation, except perhaps at special times like Easter week.] 3. Boute from Keswick by Borrow¬ dale and Honister Crag to Butter- mere. —This route is practicable for wheels from E. to W., but hardly vice versa. It is usual to walk over some of the steepest and roughest parts of the road. From Rosthwaite (p. 75) to Buttermere is m. After leaving Seatoller, 8 m. from Keswick (Rte. II), the road winds up the ex¬ ceedingly steep and rugged pass called Honister Hause, between Dale Head rt. and Grey Knotts 1. The once celebrated black-lead (gra¬ phite) mine lies to the 1., between this road and Seathwaite. The road follows a stream called Hause Gill (as leading to Honister Hause), given by the Ordnance Sur¬ veyors in the absurd form of “ Horse Gill.” In other parts of this county they have made the same blunder. , The road reaches its highest point (1190 ft.) between Yew Crag on the rt. and Honister Crag on the 1. This grand mass rises almost perpendicu¬ larly from its base to the height (Fleetwith Pike) of 2126 ft. above the level of the sea: its sides are scarped and furrowed by slate-quar¬ ries, and its base is covered with long accumulated debris. The pass was often the scene of encounters in the Border wars, Borrowdale, with its flocks and herds, presenting a strong temptation to the Scotch marauders. The quarries of Honister Crag pro¬ duce some ©f the finest roofing-slate in the kingdom, but the steepness of the precipice makes the labour of working it very perilous, the quarry- men being let down by ropes from the top to enable them to effect a lodgment and commence excavations. The slate was formerly brought down on hurdles on the backs of men, but roads have since been cut on the face of the precipice, admitting of the passage of small sledges. The work¬ men reside in the quarries, leaving them only on Sundays, and slate- hovels perched upon the ledges of this stupendous cliff give a strange conception of a life passed in so desolate a spot. The slate-quarrier niches himself like a sapper effecting a lodgment in a bastion. He hangs halfway up the mountain, prosecuting his “ perilous trade,” and is scarcely perceptible to the eye below; but the unceasing click of his hammer is distinctly heard. From the summit of this pass the road descends under the most magnificent mid imposing 88 Route 17 .—Lamph if/h Cross—Rimer dale Lake. precipice in the Lake district, to Gatesgarth, winding tortuously, and closed in on either side by mountains which preserve the direction of the valley almost with the regularity of a wall, their perpendicular sides being composed of a shaly rock which has strewed the valley with its frag¬ ments. The stream is without ver¬ dure on its banks, which are composed entirely of boulders and loose stones. It is a relief to enter Gatesgarth, a region of comparative cultivation, and the charms of Buttermere are doubly enhanced by the contrast which they present to the desolation of Honister Crag. [Ennerdale Lake is 10 m. from Scale Hill, and may be reached by a pedestrian by the mountain path from Scale Force, passing by Floutern Tarn, 6 m., or by a bridle-road branching off to the 1. from Lamp- lugh by High Trees, Fell Dyke, and Crossdale to the margin of the lake, 9 m. The carriage-road is by Lamp- lugh and Kirkland. Loweswater,$ 2 m. from Scale Hill, a small lake 1 m. long, f m. broad. A stream flows out of it into Crummock. It lies in a valley formed by Blake Fell and Low Fell. Loweswater differs from many other lakes in having the loftiest mountain masses at its foot. The lake, viewed from the end of Melbreak, forms, with its cultivated banks, a pleasing picture. The road skirts the lake, but the tourist, on reaching the high ground, should look back upon a scene of charm¬ ing pastoral beauty. Low Fell rises in front of Grassmoor, and in the distance are Whiteless Pike and Robinson. Carling Knot is a pic¬ turesque knoll, with its green surface sprinkled with thorns and hollies. Melbreak, conical from this point of view, is flanked by High Stile and Red Pike to the rt. and Honister Crag to the 1. ^amplugli Cross, a small hamlet on the road to Ennerdale. Near it, on an eminence, is an imperfect circle called Standing Stones; the N. seg¬ ment, composed of 6 large stones, only remains. Lamplugh Hall, held from the time of Hen. II. by the family of the same name, which allied itself to the Penningtons, Cur- wens, and other important families, has almost disappeared. The fine gateway, bearing the family arms with the date 1595, still remains; but the tower, which had walls 9 ft. thick, was pulled down early in the present century. The estate is now held by Walter Lamplough Brooks- bank, Esq. One Lamplugh fought at Agin- court, and another attended Mary Queen of Scots from Workington to Cockermouth. Blake Fell, a wild, bleak moor on the 1., is supposed to have once been a considerable forest. The road rising gradually from Lamplugh, the views are extensive, embracing the Scottish Hills, the Irish Sea, and the Isle of Man. The road descends gradu¬ ally to Ennerdale Lake.$ The lake is 2| m. long and § m. broad. Remote from the beaten track of tourists, this beautiful sheet of water has hitherto been less visited than any of the other lakes, but there is an inde¬ scribable charm in its isolation, and in the wild sublimity of the scenery which surrounds it. Its shores are not wooded, but the mountains which encircle them vie in grandeur with any in the district. The character of the lake is stern and solemn. Little cultivation adorns its shores, but the grouping of the mountains at its head is impressive. Great Gable, Steeple and Pillar form a grand combination. The heights on the S. side of the lake are Crag Fell, Revelin, and Iron Crag. The loftiest height on the N. side is Herdhouse. A good view of the lake is obtained from How Hall, Route 17 .—Ennerdale Lalce. 89 now a farmhouse, a little above it. Ennerdale owes much of its beauty to the irregularity of its form. The nearest promontory is Angle Fell. Pillar (2927 ft.) is the most con¬ spicuous of the surrounding moun¬ tains. “You see yon precipice,—it wears the shape Of a vast building, made of many crags, And in the midst is one particular rode That rises like a column from the vale, Whence by our shepherds it is called the Pillar. ”— Wordsworth. Pillar is the steepest mountain in the Lake district; the Pillar Rock, which juts up from the mountain-side about 500 ft. below the summit, was long considered inaccessible ; it was scaled, for the first time, in 1826, by J. At¬ kinson, an inhabitant of the dale. The first amateur to make this ascent was Lieut. J. Wilson, R.N., in 1848, and the second, Mr. C. A. 0. Baum¬ gartner, in 1850. Since that time a much easier way has been found, and the rock is annually climbed by many men, and even a few ladies. A tin case for names is kept in the cairn on the top. About 1 m. from the inn the lake narrows, with steep and abrupt cliffs. In the centre of the lake, between Angle Fell and the opposite promon¬ tory, is what appears to be a rock a little above the surface of the water, but it is - a heap of water-worn stones. There is no tradition of any islet having been artificially formed here; the pile of stones is therefore prob¬ ably part of an ancient moraine. It is 12 yards long and from 3 to 4 wide ; the water on three of its sides is deep, but a shoal extends across the lake from the other. Ennerdale is a deep lake, and has trout and char. The trout-fishing is good. “ I have heard of an angler who, at a favourable time and season, has killed here in one day, with his single rod, fourteen dozen, many a pound weight. Trout of six pounds are occasionally taken with the troll, and of eight pounds with the net.”— Davy's ‘ Angler in the Lake District.’ But the angler of the present day would consider this picture rather over-coloured. Char are also taken. In a narrow arm of the lake into which the river Liza flows is a “ char dub,” a shallow inlet with a sandy bottom; the fish enter this pool in such numbers in the spawning season that the water is said to be literally darkened by them. The valley of the Liza should be ascended for 1 or 2 m. beyond Gil- lerthwaite, where Pillar and the grand group of mountains at the head of the vale are seen to great advantage. Wastwater may be reached by a pedestrian from Ennerdale by the Black Sail Pass. The valley of the Liza must be ascended for about 4 m., when the stream should be crossed and a direction taken to the rt. (see p. 86) ; there is also a much more direct way by Windy Gap, the pass between Pillar and Steeple. The direction is marked by High Beck, a stream which enters the Liza 1 m. above Gillerthwaite. It is a rough route ; or a more circuitous route may be taken over Cold Fell from Enner¬ dale Bridge; but it is dreary and uninteresting. It is better to take the rly. from Frizington to White¬ haven or Sellafield, and thence to Seascale, the nearest station to Wast¬ water on the Whitehaven and Fur¬ ness Rly. ; or, if time will admit of it, to return to Egremont after seeing Whitehaven and St. Bees Head, and take the carriage route by Calder Bridge and Gosforth to Netherwast- dale (Strands 1 m. from Wastwater, Rte. 22). The scenery, after passing Gosforth, is particularly fine, and the interesting ruin of Calder Abbey may be visited on the way. There is only one approach which does justice to Wastwater, viz. from the S., on which account the two last-named routes are to be recommended to those who can spare a little extra time. 90 Route 18 .’—Lancaster to Carlisle. Ennerdale Bridge, 2 m. from the Lake. Its churchyard is the scene of Wordsworth’s poem ‘ The Brothers.’ The hamlet consists only of a few houses. In the turret of the ch. are two hells, one of which bears upon its rim the inscription “ Sancta Bega ora pro nobis.” The chapelry for¬ merly belonged to St. Bees, and Ennerdale Forest was a part of the endowment of the abbey. The Yeat- house Stat. of the Egremont and Whitehaven Rly. is 4 m. from Enner¬ dale Lake. Trains 3 times a day to Egremont and Whitehaven. The line passes through the rich iron dis¬ trict of Cleator.] ROUTE 18. LANCASTER TO CARLISLE, BY TEBAY, SHAP, AND PENRITH— BAIL. For Lancaster to Oxenholme, see Rte. 5. At Oxenholme the branch line to Windermere commences. The main line to Penrith and Carlisle, shortly after leaving Oxenholme, passes on the rt. Benson Knot, a pic¬ turesque wooded hill, but of no great elevation. 27| m. Low Gill Junct. [Here is the branch for Sedbergh and Ingle- ton. By this line, Leeds may be reached from Low Gill in 3 to 4 hrs.] The embankment is 95 ft. above the level of the ravine. The river is diverted into a tunnel in the rock. Beyond are several rock cut¬ tings. The line winds for 20 miles, ascending along terraces among the hills. It crosses the Borrow-water near its junction with the Lime, by a viaduct of 3 arches, 68 ft. high. At Borrowbridge begins a gradient of 1 in 75. The Lune embankment stands in the old bed of the river, there diverted into an artificial channel. At Castlefield is a Roman station, a square inclosure 360 ft. by 300 ft., standing about 20 yards from the line. It once commanded this mountain-pass. There are remains of the E., N., and W. walls, and 2 ditches may be traced on the W. The scenery here is very striking. Passing in a deep cutting by Crosby Ravensworth Fells, the line lies for above 14 m. in the lands of the Earl of Lonsdale. An obelisk at Black Dub records that Charles II. (1651) here halted on his march to Scot¬ land, and refreshed his army. 32 m. Teh ay Stat., the junction of the South Durham and Lancashire Union Rlys. The rly. follows the course of the Lune, which presents many pleasing scenes. 39J m. Shap Stat. [This is the best point from which to visit Hawes- water (see Rte. 6). To the Inn at the head of the lake, Mardale Green, it is 12 m. to drive, and 9| to walk.] Shap summit is 888 ft. above the level of the line at Morecambe Bay. The rock is here cut down to a depth of 60 ft., a work which em¬ ployed 500 men during many months, and in which more than 23 tons of powder were spent in blasting. This cutting is about 1 m. in length. 1| m. N. of Shap, and about | m. off the Appleby road, is the fine megalithic circle of Gunnerkeld. It is of a form unusual in this part of England, having a circle some 50 ft. in diameter, surrounded by another of about 100 ft. diameter. In each case the diameter from N. to S. is about one-twelfth larger than that from E.to W. In the centre are remains of a rifled cist. Nearly all the stones are prostrate, 91 Boute 18 .—Shay Abbey—Sit ay Wells. The circle on Knipe Scaur is of less importance. The railway runs on the E. side of Shap Fell, a district remarkable for its prevailing wind. “ The helm wind blows on the W. side of the range of hills extending from Brampton in Cumberland to Brough in West¬ morland. It rushes down the W. side of the mountains, and extends for 2 or 3 m. over the plain at their base. It is not confined to any par¬ ticular season, but is distinguished from other tempests by a belt of clouds resting in front of the centre, 3 or 4 m. W. of the summit, often immovable for 24 or 36 hours, attract¬ ing to itself all the light clouds which approach it. While it remains un¬ broken, and, as far as it extends, the violence of the wind is felt, and is strong enough to overturn horses and carriages, but is most injurious to the crops of standing grain when ripe. The noise of it may be heard 20 m. off, like thunder, or the roar of a cataract. The helm wind is unac¬ companied by rain. A mile beyond the shadow of the helm bar, and the air is nearly calm, or the breeze slight. When once the bar begins to break in any one part, the clouds through the whole line are speedily dispersed.” — Royal Trans., Jan., 1837. Shap Abbey consists of a ruined tower and a few fragments of the conventual wall. The abbey was founded a.d. 1119, at Preston near Kendal, but was removed 40 years afterwards to Shap for greater seclu¬ sion. The ch. was originally a large one, as may be inferred from the pro¬ portions of the W. tower. “ Shap Abbey,” Dugdale says in his ‘ Mo- nasticon,’ “ was a spacious edifice, built of free-stone, so exceedingly durable as to preserve the marks of the chisel to the present day. Its tower and some portions of its chancel wall remain, specimens of excellent masonry; and the ground to the S. of it, for a considerable distance, is covered with the foundations of its cloisters and offices, many of them vaulted underneath.” Near the abbey the rly. formerly passed through Carl Lofts, an avenue ^ m. long of standing stones of unhewn granite, which terminated in a circle. Little is left of this interesting an¬ cient British monument, the stones having been split and carried away for gateposts and other purposes. Shap Wells (4 m. from the stat., and 1 m. S. of Shap Summit), is situated in the midst of a wilderness of heath and rocks. The hotel was erected by the Earl of Lonsdale, for the use of persons desirous of drink¬ ing the waters of the Spa. Certainly nothing but sanitary objects could induce a sojourn in so dreary a spot. The waters are both saline and sul¬ phurous ; the latter resemble those of Harrogate, but are milder. 5 m. from the wells, across the moor, is Crosby Ravensworth which, come upon suddenly off the bleak moor, has a pleasing air of shelter and seclusion. For 2 or 3 m. of the way, a Roman road may be traced. Indeed, the whole of this little-visited region abounds in material for the archaeologist. At Gamelands, near Orton is a large circle, and near Od- dendale others. Tumuli and early settlements are numerous. Geologically speaking, the Wells occupy a position of some interest. The Coniston series of strata conies in a straight line from the head of Windermere and ends here, cut off by the carboniferous. The peculiar granite of Wasdale is close by, and there are several porphyritic dykes in the neighbourhood. Upon the highest part of Orton Scar, on the rt., are the remains of a beacon tower, which communicated with the Penrith Beacon; and be¬ hind the Scar opposite to Raisebeck are the ruins of a place called Castle Fold, an enclosure made for the pro- 92 Route IS.—-Shai) Felts—Penrith : Castle. tection of cattle in the Border wars. The area walled in was about an acre. Shap Fells are a wild and bleak region, the haunt of moor-fowl. This ridge of hills may he regarded as the limb which connects the great central Pennine range of England with the Cumbrian mountains. At Wasdale there occurs a peculiar kind of por- phyritic granite, distinguished by long crystals of a reddish felspar. By this and its other peculiarities it is recognised in the boulders which have been transported to a distance by glaciers. These blocks are found in the neighbourhood of Kendal, Morecambe Bay (Rte. 1), and on the high table-land of Stainmore Forest, in the valley of the Tees, as far as Darlington, and even on the Harnble- don hills and the chalk downs near Scarborough. They occur not only in the low grounds, but on the tops of hills, which they could only have reached by crossing the valleys now many hundred feet deep. Glaciers, therefore, must once have filled the gorges of the Shap Hills. “ This extensive transference of huge rocks must have occurred at a compara¬ tively recent geological period, for many of the transported boulders, al¬ though lying exposed on the surface of the country, are very little decom¬ posed, and ring under the stroke of the hammer.”— Sedgwick. 4G| m. Clifton Stat. Between Clif¬ ton and Penrith the traveller should be on the alert to observe the beauti¬ ful banks of the Lowther and the Eamont, which the train passes in quick succession within a little more than 1 m. of each other. A portion of Brougham Hall is seen just before the Clifton stat. is reached, and while the viaduct, a beautiful structure of G arches, each GO ft. in span, is being crossed. A castellated old house, Yanwath Hall, the ancient seat of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, is close to the rly. (see p. 82). On a moor near Clifton there was a skirmish in 1745, between the Duke of Cumber¬ land's troops and the Highland rebels. 50 m. PENRITH $ Stat. The town is built of red sandstone, and lies under a lofty wooded hill, called the Beacon Hill, which was planted in the beginning of the centy. by the Earl of Lonsdale. In the neighbourhood are many objects of interest, for which see Rte. 2G. The view from the top of the Beacon Hill, 937 ft., will well repay an ascent; it may be reached in about \ hr. The town derives its name from Petriana, an old Roman station. The market-place is in the centre of the town, and contains a cenotaph, in the Gothic style, erected by the inhabit¬ ants, to commemorate the death of a son of Sir George Musgrave, Bart., of Eden Hall, in 1861. Penrith suffered severely several times from the invasions of the Scots, particularly in the 19th year of Ed¬ ward III., when 2G,000 men entered Cumberland, laying waste all before them. They burned the town and several neighbouring villages, and carried into Scotland all the inhabit¬ ants of whom they could make any use, and there publicly sold them to the highest bidders. It is noticeable that in the 20th year of Edward III. (the very next year, that is) licence was granted to fortify the town. This suggests a date for the foundation of the castle. The Castle stands on a moderate elevation, close to the rly. stat. The remains are not extensive. It is said to have been built in the reign of Edward IV., in the form of a paral¬ lelogram, and was surrounded by a rampart and deep fosse. Richard III., when Duke of Gloucester, resided in it, and by the magnificence of his style of living acquired great popu¬ larity in the district. Pennant says that 5000 troops marched from Pen- 98 Houle 18 .— Penrith: Church — Plumjpton. rith to attend liis coronation. He is supposed to have added considerably to the castle. It was besieged and taken by the Parliamentary forces, and was soon afterwards dismantled. There is said to have been an arched subterranean passage leading from the castle to a house in the town, called’ Dockray Hall, a distance of 307 yards. Such communications were not uncommon in old fortresses, and were intended for conveying pro¬ visions in times of siege and for escapes; but tradition has invented them in many places where they certainly never existed. The Church (rebuilt in 1722) is spacious, but without any architec¬ tural pretensions. The galleries are supported by Ionic columns of a red marble, each pillar consisting of a single stone. The gilt chandeliers were presented by the Duke of Port¬ land, in acknowledgment of the loyalty of the town in the rebellion of 1745. The tower is the only an¬ cient portion of the church, and contains a peal of well-toned bells, which ring chimes every three hours. Over the altar are two pictures by a native artist, Mr. Jacob Thompson; the subjects are “ Christ in the Gar¬ den of Gethsemane,” and “ The Shep¬ herds keeping watch over their flocks by night.” There are many old brasses and monuments. On a wall in the chancel is an inscription referring to the visitation of the plague in 1598, by which it appears that Penrith lost 22(30 of its inhabitants. The two crosses in the churchyard have long excited the curiosity of antiquaries. According to tradition, Sir Hugh Csesarius, a man of great courage and colossal stature, who cleared Inglewood Forest of wild boars, was buried under one, upon which persons have fancied they dis¬ covered the rude delineation of a wild boar; but the stone is so much injured by time that it is now im¬ possible to make out any defined ob¬ ject. The stones are 11£ ft. in height, and the distance between them is supposed to be the stature of the buried giant. They were undoubtedly originally crosses, and probably indi¬ cated the grave of some person of distinction. The characters are thought to be Runic. There is another ancient monument, which, according to popular tradition, marks the spot where the giants thumb was buried. It is evidently part of a smaller rose cross, the top of which has been broken off. The country between Penrith and Carlisle (18 m.) is not very interest¬ ing. 55 m. Plumpton Stat. A short distance E. of the Stat., on the mili¬ tary way which led directly to Car¬ lisle, was the Roman station Castle- steads, or Old Penrith, which Mr. Maughan identifies with Aballaba. The remains are considerable, and are about 200 yds. above the river Petterel. The ramparts and the fosse are both tolerably perfect, and the 4 gates or entrances are distinguish¬ able. The pnetorium may also be traced. The station slopes on the W. towards the river. “ The ram¬ parts are boldly marked, and the interior of the station is filled up to their level by a mass of prostrate habitations. The largest heap of ruins is at the N.E. quarter. A portion of the E. gate remains. One stone of the threshold yet retains its position ; it is much worn by the feet of the ancient tenants of the city, and is circularly chafed by the action of the door in opening and shutting. Several very large stones which have been used in the construction of the S. gate¬ way lie near their original site; some of them yet exhibit the holes in which the pivots of the doors turned. The line of the street which went from the E. to the W. gateway is dis¬ cernible. In the neighbourhood of the camp, and even at some distance from it, we meet, in the houses and stone 04 Route 18 .— Carlisle: Histonj. fences, with such a number of small, neatly-cut stones usually employed in the construction of Roman dwellings, as to impress us with the idea that the suburbs of the station w r ere very ex¬ tensive in every direction.”— Bruce , on the Roman Wall. The rly. follows for some distance the course of the river Petterel. 58£ m. Calthwaite Stat. G2 m. Southwaite Stat. G1 m. Wreay Stat. G9 m. CARLISLE. $ The approach to this old Border-city, the county- town of Cumberland, is striking ; the massive towers of its old castle and the venerable cathedral contrasting strongly with the tall chimneys of an important manufacturing town. “ Merrie Carlisle,” celebrated in many a Border ballad, stands in a good military position at the junction of the Caldew w r ith the Eden, the point of the peninsula being occupied by the castle, behind which is the cathe¬ dral. The plan of the city resembles the shape of the letter Y, the castle being on the apex. The 3 principal thoroughfares, English, Scotch, and Castle Streets, diverge from the market-place, on the N. side of which stands the town-hall. The entrance to the city from the S. is between 2 enormous drum towers. These towers are modern, and contain the assize courts for the county, and they were built in imitation of two which were erected there by Henry VIII. His¬ torical events have made Carlisle among the most famous of English cities, and it would be difficult to name another around which cluster so many interesting traditions. Seen from a distance, the numerous fac¬ tories, the tall chimneys of which pour forth clouds of steam and smoke, and the square buildings, with their numerous windows, show that Car¬ lisle is a manufacturing city, and that its modern is very different from its ancient state. “ On entering it the contrast between the past and the present is very marked. Its walls and gates have disappeared; its streets are wide and clean, which no ancient streets in England ever were; and it has altogether a juvenile, busy, and thriving appearance.’'— Macltay. Carlisle was a Roman town, but probably not a military station, as it was sufficiently protected by that at Stanwix, Luguvallum, signifying the tower or stat. by the wall, from its proximity to the wall of Hadrian. The Saxons abbreviated the name into Luel, and afterwards called it Caer Luel, or the city of Luel. The history of Carlisle was made the sub¬ ject of an able paper by Mr. E. A. Freeman, when the meeting of the Archaeological Society was held here. It is supposed to have been the prin¬ cipal residence of that great mythic personage King Arthur. It was sacked by the Danes about 875. The site was fortified by the Conqueror's son Rufus, and the works were strengthened by David, King of Scotland, who occasionally resided in the castle. It was afterwards made a place of great strength and a Border fortress, one of the bulwarks of the N., as Berwick and Newcastle were of the E. of England. It was often sacked, plundered, and exposed to the other miseries of war. It was repeatedly attacked by the Scots, but, from the 12th centy., without any lasting success ; although Scott of Buccleugh (1596) rescued Kinmont Willie, the noted Borderer chief, from its prison. It was the rendezvous of the great army which Edw. I. collected for the invasion of Scotland in 1307, and he summoned a Parliament to meet at Carlisle in that year, which was attended by 78 earls and barons, 10 bishops, 61 abbots, and 8 priors, besides other ecclesiastics. The king remained at Carlisle from Jan. until the summer was far advanced, preparing for the Scottish war. In a later age Mont- Horde 18 .—Carlisle : Cathedral. 95 rose held it for the king in 1644, and afterwards it endured a long and obstinate siege from the Parlia¬ mentary army under Leslie. The inhabs. were at length obliged to eat horses, dogs, and rats, which were eagerly devoured without bread or salt, and hemp-seed became so dear that it could be purchased only by the wealthy. Money was coined from the plate of the inhabs. The diary of a resident during the siege, pre¬ served among the Harleian MSS., states that “ the citizens were so shrunk from starvation, that they could not choose but laugh at one another, to see their clothes hang upon them as upon men on gibbets.” The city was defended by Sir Thomas Glenham, and surrendered on the 25th June, 1645, after having held out for more than 8 months. In 1745, just 100 years later, it was surrendered to the Pretender Prince Charles without a struggle; but the city was at the time gar¬ risoned only by 2 companies of in¬ valids and a small body of militia. Prince Charles entered Carlisle on the 18th Nov., preceded by 100 pipers, and mounted on a milk-white horse. A few w r eeks afterwards it w r as retaken by the Duke of Cumber¬ land. Gallows Hill, at a little dis¬ tance from the city, w r as the place of execution of the Scotch rebels. The remains of the gibbets w r ere to be seen until the end of the last centy. Many of the rebels were beheaded, and their heads fixed on the city gates, w r here they remained for years. Extensive remains of the ancient city lie buried beneath modern Car¬ lisle. Seldom is the ground pene¬ trated to any depth without the dis¬ covery of ancient mansions, Samian w r are, and Roman coins. In 1876 extensive remains w r ere found, near the Bush Hotel, of an oaken stockade, which Mr. R. S. Ferguson supposes to have been erected in early Roman times. In Leland’s time traces of the ancient city were very visible “ In digging,” he says, “ to make new buildings in the towme, often- tymes hath bene and now r is found diverse foundations of the old cite, as pavements of stretes, old arches of dores, coynes, stones squared, painted pottes, money hid in pottes. The hole site of the towne is sore changed, for the places where the great stretes and edifices were are vacant and garden plottes.” The Cathedral is a mutilated build¬ ing, consisting of a choir and transepts, and is surmounted wdth a stunted tower. If not possessing a place in the foremost rank of English cathedrals, it has many architectural beauties, and is the most interesting object in the city. St. Cuthbert is said to have founded (a.d. 686) a convent and school and an abbey for nuns; but from Bede’s Life of the saint it appears that there w r as a monastery at Carlisle before the time of the saint, to w r hich Queen Ermen- burga retired; but all these eccle¬ siastical buildings, with those of the neighbouring county, were laid waste in the Danish w r ars. The w r ork of rebuilding the abbey w r as begun by William Rufus and finished about 1100 by his brother Henry, w r ho erected Carlisle into an episcopal see, and made the parish ch. a cathedral. The choir and N. transept w^ere re¬ built in the 14th cent. Henry VIII. by charter established and incorpo¬ rated a dean and chapter in place of the priory, endowing them with 14 manors, and property in 126 different places, all once forming part of the possessions of the priory. The greater portion of the nave, together with the cloisters and chapter house, was des¬ troyed by the early Reformers, w r ho pulled them down, it is supposed, to¬ gether with the conventual buildings attached. The nave is now reduced to 2 bays, supported by very massive pillars, 14 ft. high and 17 ft. in girth; the style is E. Norm., and it w r as built of whiter and more durable 96 Route 18 .—Carlisle stone than the other portions of the edifice. The columns supporting the tower and the transept are of the same age and style as the nave. There is a well beside one of the old Norm, columns, the next to St. Catharine’s Chapel, which is separated from the S. aisle by a very rich Dec. screen. This chapel is now used as the choristers’ robing-room, and con¬ tains 3 decayed almonries or closets, one of which is very old, probably Norm., representing the compart¬ ments of a building with tiled roof and pedimented wfindows. Among the curiosities of the cath. are a pair of tusks, fastened by a rivet to a portion of the skull of a walrus, upon which are traces of ornament in metal work, apparently of a remote period. Two very richly embroidered but tattered copes are also preserved, one of crimson velvet worked with gold, the other of embroidered silk, with 8 figures of saints in needle¬ work, very curious. They are not shown. The Cathedral was an example of the curious, but not uncommon, plan of having two churches in one build¬ ing : the canon's church being in the chancel, while the nave, cut off by a thick wall, contained the parochial church. This was the original ar¬ rangement of the building from the very first, and lasted until about 1870, when a new parish church was built elsewhere, and the nave opened to the transepts. The present Choir was begun in the reign of Edw. I., after a fire which had consumed nearly the whole of the original building E. of the tower, but was not completed until about 1377. The roof is supported by elegant clustered columns, and pointed arches set off with chevron ornaments between the deep mould¬ ings, in the E. Eng. style. The sculptured foliage of the capitals is finely executed, and represents the occupations of the months. The very : Cathedral; Choir. elaborate carving of the Stalls, with their pinnacles, &c., of black oak, will well repay a minute examination. The portion of screenwork behind the modern pulpit is good, with medallion heads inserted in the panels, but of later date (1530), and semi-Gothic in style, erected by Prior Lancelot Salkeld. The rest of the woodwork, including the bishop’s throne, is modern. On the panels at the back of the stalls are some old and very rude paintings, the work of Prior Gondi- bour, representing, on the N. side, the legend of St. Cuthbert, with figures of the 12 Apostles, and the story of St. Antony and St. Austin, and on the S. the life of St. Augustin. In the N. aisle, beneath a plain slab, is buried Archdeacon Paley, whose ‘ Horse Paulinse ’ and ‘ Evidences of Christi¬ anity ’ were written while he was pre¬ bend of Carlisle. On the wall, under the great E. window, is a plain monument to his memory. Near his grave are two niches in the wall, the desecrated burial-places of early bishops. The Cathedral has passed through many vicissitudes, alternately falling into decay and being renovated ; but at the beginning of this century it was in a very dilapidated state, the exterior being much impaired by time. In 1846 the outside of the clerestory on the N. was entirely restored; but in 1853 the work of restoration was commenced in earnest, both internally and externally, and, but for these extensive repairs, must have become a crumbling ruin; but the most complete and thorough re¬ storation was carried out about 1880, under the able superintendence of G. E. Street, E.A. The doorway of the S. transept is new, and is an admirable specimen of modern deco¬ rative sculpture. The capitals of the light shafts are richly ornamented with foliage and fruit, deeply cut, and the mouldings are elegantly embellished. Above the arch is a Route 18 .—Carlisle : the Cathedral. 97 handsome circular window of 7 qua- trefoil lights. The remains of the nave and the S. transept are almost the only portions of the original edifice left. The great E. window, 50 ft. high and 30 ft. wide, is perhaps the finest in the kingdom; it is in the Dec. style. “ Its elegance of composition, delicacy of arrangement, and easy flow of lines rank it higher than even the celebrated W. window of York, which it also exceeds in the number of divisions, having 9 lights.’"— Rielc- man. Even the small spandrils, formed by the different ornaments, are pierced, which gives the window a great lightness of effect. The lower portion is said to be of the time of Edw. I., and the upper part of Edw. III. The stained glass in the higher compartments is ancient; in the lower it is modern. The ceiling of the choir is divided into square panels, the carved bosses at the intersections being emblazoned with the Boyal arms, and those of the families by whose munificence it was completed. In each panel are groups of stars in gold on an azure ground. Bound the cornices are figures finely carved and deco¬ rated, and scriptural texts in the old English character form a band round the upper part. The whole was de¬ signed by, and executed under the direction of, Mr. Owen Jones. The window in the N. transept was subscribed for by the inhabit¬ ants, as a tribute of sympathy to Dr. Tait, then Dean of Carlisle, and after¬ wards Archbishop of Canterbury, who lost 5 of his children within a few weeks from scarlet fever, while re¬ siding at the Deanery. The window consists of 6 perpendicular lights, divided into 12 compartments. In the centre light Christ is represented as blessing little children, and the side lights show the parents bringing them to be blessed. In the middle of the great wheel of the tracery Christ is depicted with open arms, and say- [English Lalces.'} ing, “ Suffer the little children to come unto Me, and forbid them not.” The window to the 1. is to the memory of Chancellor Fletcher. A very interesting Bunic inscription was discovered in the wall of the S. transept, during the process of the restoration of the cathedral. It is scratched with a tool upon a stone about 3 feet above the pavement, and had been covered over with plaster and whitewash. Around it are several marks made by the tools of the masons. The words of the inscrip¬ tion, as translated, are, — “ Tolfm wrote this stone to Ulfhar,” proving the work which Bufus undertook to have been commenced by Scandina¬ vian builders, and the probability that, at the time of Bufus’s visit to Carlisle, this part of the country was in the possession of the Danes or Northmen, and that, having become Christian¬ ised and civilised, they had already begun to repair the ravages made by their heathen predecessors.—Fergu¬ son's Northmen of Cumberland. Bobert Bruce was excommunicated in the ch., with bells rung backwards, as a usurper of the throne of Scot¬ land, by the Papal Legate, in the presence of Edward I. and his Parlia- liament. To the S. of the cathedral is the fratry or refectory, now used as a library and chapter-house. It is in the Perp. style of the 15th centy. There is a mistaken tradition that Edward I. held a Parliament in this building. The crypt is curious, and contains some Roman antiquities. The abbey gateway was built by Prior Slee (1528). The two oldest tombs in the ch. are those of Bishop Welton, 13G2, and Bp. Appleby, 1419. There is a marble monument to Bp. Law, 1787, by Banks, and a brass to Bp. Bell, 1494. The deanery contains a beau¬ tiful flat oak ceiling, elaborately carved and richly painted with coats of arms, scrolls, &c. 98 Route 18 .—Carlisle : the Castle — Stanwix. Trinity Ch., in Caldew’ Gate, and Christ Ch., in Botchergate, are modern erections in poor taste, and were de¬ signed by Rickman. The Castle, to the N. of the town (the position and plan should be care¬ fully compared with that of Lancaster Castle), overlooking the river Eden, is an old moated fortress, and was a stronghold of the first importance in the Scottish and civil wars ; it is now used as the depot of the Border Regi¬ ment, formerly the famous 34th and 55th Regiments of the line. The massive keep is the most interesting portion of the building. Over the gateway are the sculptured arms of Richard III., who in the reign of Edw. IV. was Governor of the Castle, and carried out extensive alterations and repairs. Under Henry VIII. alterations were made so as to admit of the employment of artillery. The castle was for two months the prison of Mary Queen of Scots; the tower in which she was confined was pulled down in 1835. After the rebellion of 1745, between 300 and 400 Scotch prisoners were lodged in the keep and dungeons. The ser¬ geant, whose duty it was to show the castle, pointed out to Sir Walter Scott the identical cell in which ‘ Fergus M‘Ivor ” was confined pre¬ viously to his trial! Macdonald of Keppoch, the prototype of Mclvor, was imprisoned within the keep, and the walls of the apartment he occu¬ pied are covered with fanciful figures and devices, well executed, and said to have been scratched with a nail, to beguile the tedium of confinement. In a side wall is a supposed Roman well of great depth. In the early part of the present cent., many in¬ teresting features of the building were somewhat recklessly destroyed. The Roman wall crossed the Eden close to Carlisle, the stone murus and the earthen vallum spreading out so as to include between them the hill on which the castle stands, the latter runs under the manned quarters on the outer castle green: the former from top of the cliff above Hysopp Holm Well, Stanwix (position marked by stone posts), across the flats of the Eden to a point near the County Infirmary. The County Infirmary, reached by way of Abbey Street and Caldew Gate, is a very fine building, and con¬ tains 100 beds. Stanwix, a suburb of Carlisle, is connected with it by a fine bridge spanning the Eden. The ch. (which has a striking pinnacled tower) and ch.-yard occupy the site of a Roman station. Distinct remains of ancient edifices have been discovered here. In pulling down the old ch., previous to the erection of the pre¬ sent, a very fine statue of Victory, although somewhat mutilated, was found; it is now in the Museum of Newcastle. The name of the place is the Stanewegges, or paved way, the old Roman road. The situation is beautiful. To the E. the Nine Nicks ” of Thirlwall; to the S. are the beautiful grounds of Rickerby House ; the river Eden is seen flowing through a well-cultivated country; and the city of Carlisle, with its cathedral and castle, and the Cumbrian mountains in the distance, complete a very striking panorama. The ancient walls of Carlisle were in the form of an irregular triangle ; the W. Avail above the river CaldeAv is now the only remaining portion. It extends for a considerable length, and is 20 feet high on the outer side. The Caledonian RaihA r ay passes with¬ in a few yards of this wall, which is contiguous to the W. front of the Deanery. This side of the wall is said to have been 3000 feet long. Beyond it is a large space covered with houses and manufactories, prov¬ ing Iioav comparatively small was the area of the ancient city. The walls were encircled by a moat, and w ere so broad that 3 men could Avalk 99 Route 19 ,—Skipton to Carlisle. abreast upon the parapet. Three gates, called the English, Irish, and Scotch, protected the entrances to the city, and flights of steps led up to the walls, which were frequently garnished with the heads of rebels. It is said that a Highland regiment, after the rebellion of 1745, refused to enter the city by the Scotch gate, on which the mouldering heads of many of their countrymen were still conspicuous, and they were marched round to the opposite side of the city, that they might pass in by the Eng¬ lish gate. The principal manufactures are of cotton, ginghams and checks. The river Caldew supplies some of the motive power. There are also some extensive dyeing-works. The city has a reputation for the manufacture of whips and hats. There is a pleasant walk on the N. bank of the Eden along the red cliff, called Etterby Scar, about 1 m. below the bridge, commanding a charming view of the river, city, &c. In the principal street are 2 well-executed statues in freestone, one of William Earl of Lonsdale, the other of James Steele, Esq., Mayor of Carlisle. ROUTE 19. SKIPTON TO CARLISLE, OR PENRITH AND KESWICK, VIA SETTLE, KIRKBY STEPHEN, AND APPLEBY— MID¬ LAND RAILWAY. The Midland Ry offers a route to Cumberland slightly longer than that of the London and North Western, but decidedly more picturesque. Skipton may be reached from Lou¬ don by express in 5| hrs. (See Hanclb. for Yorkshire .) Gf m. Bell Busk Stat., from which the celebrated cirques of Gordale Scar and Malham Cove may be visited. 10 m. Hellifield Juuct. Here is a junction with the Ingleton branch of the L. N. W. Ry., by way of Kirkby Lonsdale (Rte. 27), and Low Gill (Rte. 18). At Clapham (10 m.), this branch forks again for Morecambe by Lan¬ caster, and for the Furness rly. by Carnforth. Through trains are run from Skipton to both places. 1G m. Settle Stat. Here, up the valley of the Ribble, the serious part of the ascent begins. A gradient of 1 in 100 is maintained for 14 miles, passing (r.) Penyghent, and (1.) the nits, of Ingleborough and Whernside. For the sake of comparison it may be mentioned that none of these quite reach the height of the highest, Langdale Pike. The summit plateau is a somewhat bleak and treeless region ; but the monotony of the landscape is relieved by beautiful glimpses down Garsdale and the early courses of the Dent. The descent is made down the much - admired valley of the Eden river. 46 m. Kirkby Stephen Stat. (Rte. 27.) It should be noted that the stat. of the same name on the North Eastern (Penrith and Darlington) Ry., is upwards of a mile distant. 56| m. Appleby Stat. $ Here again there are two stations ; but by a con¬ venient arrangement, one train a day is run in each direction between the Midland Stat. here, and Penrith, for which see Rte. 18. ii 2 100 Monte 20 .—Penrith to Carlisle . ROUTE 20. PENRITH TO CARLISLE, BY KIRKOS- WALD— ROAD; LOWTHER CASTLE. Round Penrith there is an unusual number of old halls and manor- houses which deserve a visit. Among them, both lying a short distance rt. of the road to Pooley Br., are Yanwath Hall, one of the best examples of a Border Peel, was evidently built to command the ford across the Eamont. The massive tower, 55 feet high, and with an area of 30 ft. by 38 ft., stands at the W. end of the S. wing. It was raised early in the 14th centy. The man¬ sion passed by an heiress from the Threlkelds to the Dudleys, of whom it was bought, in 1654, by Sir John Lowther. Sockbridge Hall, an old seat of the Lancaster family, is a good type of a 15th centy. manor- house. It once possessed a peel tower, which was pulled down about. 1825. There is some good carved panelling and screens. Excursions from Penrith may be made to Eden Hall (Sir George Mus¬ grave, Bart.); to the very striking remains, Long Meg and her Daugh¬ ters ; to Nunnery, at the confluence of the Croglin with the Eden; to Greystoke Castle, Brougham Hall, Brougham Castle, and Lowther Castle ; to Pooley Bridge and Ulls- water, 8 m. Several of these may be easily combined as in the following route:— 4 m. Eden Hall. The mansion was built in 1824, from a design by Smirke, on the site of a former house, by Sir Philip Musgrave, the 8th Bart. It contains some good pictures,—one of Sir Philip Musgrave, a f-length, by Sir Joshua Reynolds , and con¬ sidered one of his best specimens; another of Sir Philip’s eldest daughter, by the same master; two of Sir John Chardin Musgrave and his wife, by Hoppner, in his best manner; a good portrait of Dorothy Lady Filmer, by Opie; heads of George I., Lord Dart¬ mouth, and Sir Chas. Musgrave, by Sir Peter Lely ; a f-length portrait of Sir Ch. Musgrave. by Sir G. Kneller ; a fine portrait of the 1st Sir P. Musgrave, commander of the Royal forces in the northern counties, painted in Holland during his exile. There are also some good copies from Guido and Raphael, and some inte¬ riors and heads by Dutch artists unknown. The grounds slope down to the Eden, on the opposite bank of which is a well-timbered deer- park. The gardens are laid out with great taste. Sandford, in his ac¬ count of Cumberland, 1670, gives the following description of Eden Hall:—• 44 Upon the bank of this famous river stands the fair, fine, and beautiful palace, Eden Hall, orchards and gar¬ dens, and none better for all fruit, delicate and pleasant, with walks as fine as Chelsea fields , the fair river Eden gliding like the Thames along.” At the end of the lawn is a public walk, called the Ladies’ Walk, ex¬ tending for more than a mile along the banks of the river. Eden Hall is celebrated for an old enamelled drinking-glass called the Luck of Eden Ball, which is preserved by the family with almost superstitious care. The legend is, that the butler, going one day to the well in the park (St. Cuthbert’s Well) to draw water, sur¬ prised a party of fairies dancing. He seized a glass which they had left at the brink of the well; the fairies, after struggling to recover it, flew away, saying, Route 20 .—Helen Hall: The Church 101 “If that gla?s either break or fall, Farewell to the Luck of Edenhall.” It is enamelled, and kept m a case of cuir bouilli, of the time of Henry IV. or V. It was formerly thought to he of Venetian manufacture, hut it has been ascertained to be a very rare specimen of Oriental workman¬ ship. It is not known how or when the family became possessed of the vessel. It has been the subject of a ballad by the Duke of Wharton (who, in his drunken revels, used to toss the cup into the air and catch it in its descent), and of one by Uhland, the German poet, which has been thus translated by Longfellow—• The Luck of Edenhall. Of Edenhall the youthful Lord Bids sound the festal trumpet’s call, And rises at the banquet-board And cries ’mid the drunken revellers all, “ Now bring me the Luck of Edenhall.” The butler hears the word with pain ; The house’s oldest seneschal Takes slow from its silken cloth again The drinking cup of crystal tall; They call it the Luck of Edenhall. Then said the Lord, “This glass to praise Fill with red wine from Portugal! ” The greybeard with trembling hand obeys; A purple light shines over all, It beams from the Luck of Edenhall. Then speaks the Lord, and waves it light, “ This glass of flashing crystal tall Gave to my sire the Fountain-Sprite ; She wrote in it, ‘ If this glass do fall. Farewell, then, 0 Luck of Edenhall.’ “ 'Twas right a goblet the fate should be Of the joyous race of Edenhall; Deep draughts drink we most willingly, And willingly ring, with merry call, Kling, klang, to the Luck of Edenhall. “ First rings it deep, and full, and mild, Like to the song of a nightingale ; Then like the roar of a torrent wild; Then mutters at last .like thunder’s fall. The glorious Luck of Edenhall! “ For its keeper takes a race of might, The fragile goblet of crystal tall; It has lasted longer than is right; Kling, klang !—with a louder blow than all Will I try the Luck of Edenhall! ” As the goblet ringing flies apart, Suddenly cracks the vaulted ball; And through the rift the wild flames start; The guests in dust are covered all With the breaking Luck of Edenhall. In storms the foe, with fire and sword; He in the night had scaled the wall; Slain by the sword lies the youthful Lord, But holds in his hand the crystal tall, The shards of the Luck of Edenhall. On the morrow the butler gropes alone, The greybeard in the desert hall, He seeks his lord’s burnt skeleton— j He seeks in the dismal ruin’s fall The shards of the Luck of Edenhall. “ The stone wall,” saitli he, “ doth fall aside, Down must the stately columns fall; Glass is this earth’s Luck and Pride; In atoms shall fall this earthly ball One day, like the Luck of Edenhall.” The Church is situated in the park, and was restored and beautified in 1834. The roof of the nave is in the Tudor style, the principal beams forming a trefoil arch, and the inter¬ stices of the framing are formed with pierced panellings: the spandrils of the beams bear shields and arms. The pulpit is a very good specimen of carving. The windows are richly painted, the E. window being in the E. Eng. style. The tower was built about 1450 by William Stapilton, then proprietor of the manor, and it is supposed to have been used as a beacon, as it contains a fireplace. He gave the three bells dedicated to St. Cuthbert. There is a brass in the ch. in memory of the donor and his wife, Margaret de Veteripoint, Lady of Aldston Moor, who died 1484. There are marble monuments in the chancel of all the Musgrave baronets in succession, from Sir Philip, the 2nd Bart., and to other members of the family. The chancel is ornamented in the mixed Norm, and Tudor styles. Half a mile beyond the confluence of the Eamont with the Eden, and on the bank of the former river, is a species of grotto cut out of the rock, and called Isis Partis. According to popular tradition, it was the abode of a giant named Isis , 102 Route 20 .—Long Meg and tier Daughters — Kirlcoswald. who, like Cacus of old, seized men and cattle, and drew them into his den to devour them. It was probably formed for a place of refuge in times of disturbance, like the Wetheral Safeguards, as it once possessed iron gates. Passing Langwathby, § m. beyond Eden Hall, the road approaches and passes through, 7 in., Long Meg and her Daughters, one of the finest remains of the kind in England. This remarkable circle consists of G9 enormous unhewn stones, of which 27 are erect, forming an oval with diameters 305 ft. (N. and S.) and 360 ft. (E. and W.). It is probably contemporary with Stonehenge and the circle near Keswick. The pecu¬ liarity of Long Meg and her Daughters consists in the stones being some of them limestone, some granite, and others greenstone. “ A weight of awe not easy to be borne Fell suddenly upon my Spirit, cast From the dread bosom of the unknown past, When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn, And her whose strength and stature seem’d to scorn The power of years, pre-eminent, and placed Apart to overlook the circle vast.”— Wordsworth. Long Meg, which stands 25 yds. S.W. of the circle, opposite a kind of gateway formed by 4 stones, has four faces. It is 12 ft. high, 14 ft. in girth, and is computed to weigh 1G| tons. Camden, who visited Cumberland in 1599, and gave the earliest descrip¬ tion, speaks of 2 barrows within the circle. They have long disappeared. It is said by the country people that the stones cannot be counted twice alike, and that they are a company of witches transformed into stones on the prayer of some saint. No detached mass of rock larger than can be drawn on a single horse-sledge is now found in the neighbourhood. 9 m. Kirkoswald, 2 m. from Long Meg, is situated in a fertile and beautiful vale. The remains of the Castle are close to the town, on an eminence surrounded with trees. It has been an extensive fortress, and was protected by a fosse on three sides. Little of it remains but a slender staircase tower on the N. front, and at the corners of the S. face two 14th-cent. vaulted towers, with arched doorways, a dungeon, and some crumbling walls. The moat, dug about the year 1500, is still well defined. It was once a noble castle, according to Sandford's description of it (1G70): “ On the river Eden standeth the grand Castle of Kirk¬ oswald, and a very fine church there, and a college. This great castle was once the fairest that ever was looked on. The hall I have seen, 100 yards long, and the great pourtraiture of King Brute (?), lying on the end of the roof of the hall, and of all his successors, Kings of England, pour- traited to the waist, tlieir visages, hats, feathers, garbs, and habits, in the roof of the hall, now transferred to Naworth Castle, where they were placed in the roof of the hall.” There they remained till destroyed by the fire of 1844. The castle was the ancient resi¬ dence of the Lords of Multon, and afterwards of the Dacres, from whom it descended, by the Southern branch, to the Earl of Essex, who died in 1715, when the property was sold to the Musgraves. Sir Hugh de Mor- ville made it his residence, and en¬ closed the park. Sir Hugh has frequently been confused with the murderer of Thomas a Beckct. The former, however, was grandson of Simon, who was contemporary, if not brother, of the latter. Kirkoswald was burnt by the Scots in 1314, after the battle of Bannockburn. In 1598 it suffered frightfully from the plague, of which 583 persons—two-thirds of the population—died. The Ch., dedicated to St. Oswald, has been restored and decorated at Houle 20 .— KirJcoswaM — Carlisle. the expense of W. Atkinson, Esq., of Carlisle, who presented some hand¬ some memorial windows in remem¬ brance of the Dacre, Musgrave, and Featherstonhaugh families. It pos¬ sesses the peculiarity of having its tower and belfry detached on an adjoining hill, from which the bells can be heard at a great distance. Under the W. window is a well, which is supplied by a rivulet flowing under the aisle of the ch. There are several monuments of the Feather¬ stonhaugh family. 11 m. Nunnery, 2 m. from Kirk- oswald. The ancient religious house was founded by William Rufus for a community of Benedictine nuns. Little remains of the original edifice, upon the site of which a modern mansion of red sandstone has been erected. The attraction of this place is the river scenery and the walks cut in the steep banks of the river Croglin, which rises among the Cross Fell and Pennine Mountains, and runs 12 m. W.S.W. of the Eden, with which, after flowing through a finely- wooded ravine, it forms a junction about | m. below Nunnery. Nothing can surpass the romantic beauty of this gloomy gorge, through which the Croglin falls in a series of cas¬ cades. The height of the sandstone rocks, and the thickness of the foliage, admit but little light, and the whole effect is singularly impressive. “ The floods are roused, and will not soon be weary; Down from the Pennine Alps how fiercely sweeps Croglin, the stately Eden’s tributary! He raves, or through some moody passage creeps, Plotting new mischief. Out again he leaps Into broad light, and sends, through regions airy. That voice which soothed the nuns while on the steeps They knelt in prayer.”— Wordsworth. The opposite banks of the Croglin belong to Stafford Hall, and are laid io3 out much in the same manner as those of Nunnery. The walks are con¬ tinued until the junction of the river with the Eden, where the scenery is more open, but almost equally fine. A pathway has been formed for more than a mile along the banks of the Eden. In proceeding up the valley of the Croglin the scenery is perhaps even finer than at Nunnery. The name of the Croglin is derived from two British words, cureg, rock, and lyn, water. [Returning to Penrith, the route may be varied by proceeding through Lazonby, and over Penrith Fell. In the churchyard of Lazonby is an ancient cross. The views are ex¬ ceedingly fine, including the valley of the Eden, the heights of Cross Fell, and, on approaching Penrith, the woods of Lowther. Salkeld Bridge, 3 m., is remarkable for a singular combination of elliptic, semicircular, and pointed arches. Near Salkeld, in 1644, Sir Philip Musgrave and Sir Henry Fletcher were defeated by the Scotch army under Leslie. Salkeld was the birth¬ place of Edward Law, the first Lord Ellenborough. The Ch. is dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and has a strong embattled tower, designed for a place of refuge. The massive door is plated with iron, and under the aisle is a dungeon, or place of security. It is an excellent example of the fortified church of the Border. The nave is a rude but fine specimen of late Norm.] Proceeding from Nunnery towards Carlisle, the tourist has a choice of routes ; he may strike into the main road to Carlisle, and reach it in about 13 m., or he may make a slight detour, so as to include Wetheral and Corby Castle (see Rte. 25). 24 m. CARLISLE (Rte. IS). Route 20 .—Lowther and Brougham Castles . 104 To Lowther Castle. A day should certainly be devoted to seeing this, in combination with Brougham Castle and Hall. Both might easily be made to form part of a drive to Bampton or Haweswater. For Low¬ ther, Clifton Stat. may be used. 1| m. Brougham Castle, on the rt. bank of the Eamont, was one of the strongest and most important of the Border fortresses, but is now a ruin. Camden calls Brougham Castle the Brovoniacum of the Romans, and it is not improbable that the Romans had a fortress there, as the Roman causeway from Carlisle passed it. The first historical notice relating to it is in the reign of William the Conqueror, who granted it to his nephew, Hugh de Albinois. His successor held it until 1170, when it came into the possession of Sir Simon de Morville, and was forfeited to the Crown. It was afterwards granted by King John to a grandson of Simon, Robert de Vipont, who also forfeited it; but it was restored to his daugh¬ ters, co-heiresses, one of whom married a De Clifford. The first Roger Lord Clifford rebuilt, or greatly enlarged, the castle, over the inner gateway of which he placed the inscription, “ This made Roger.” Roger, his grandson, added the greater part of the E. side, and placed his arms, together with those of his wife, Maud Beauchamp, daughter of the Earl of Warwick, over the entrance. It remained in the Clifford family until it passed, by the marriage of a daughter of the celebrated Countess of Pembroke, to the Earl of Tbanet. It has been a very magnificent structure. No place can exhibit more impressive remains of that gloomy strength for which these castles were remarkable,—arched vaults, winding passages in the walls, so narrow as not to admit more than one person at once, doors contracted to a mere hole, through which no one could enter without stooping, and the remains of vast bolts and massive hinges, give a good idea of those times when a feudal lord was almost a prisoner in his own castle. The entrance is by a machicolated gateway and tower. A short covered-way leads to another gateway, when the quadrangle is entered. The admirable masonry of the keep has preserved its outer walls from the decay which has befallen other parts of the castle. The whole of the interior is in ruins, with the exception of a vault, or dungeon. The floor of the chapel, which was over this part of the building, has fallen in; the arch of the E. window is broken, but some sedilia on the 1. remain tolerably perfect. Parts of the doorways are in good preserva¬ tion, as are also the mullions of the windows. An appearance of great strength pervades the whole ruin, and the massive walls seem even now as if they would endure for centuries. The outer and inner gateway, the latter vaulted with groined arches, have both grooves for portcullises. The best technical description of the Castle is that given by Mr. Gf. T. Clarke, F.S.A., whose authority on such matters is very great. The castle suffered much from the incursions of the Scots in 1112; in the reign of Henry IV. it was almost destroyed. Francis Earl of Cumber¬ land entertained James I. here for 3 days, in 1617, on his return from his progress into Scotland; but the castle was afterwards suffered to fall into decay. In 1652 it was thoroughly repaired by the Dowager Countess of Pembroke, and she made it her prin¬ cipal residence. After her death it was again allowed to go to ruin, and in 1728 the greater part of it was demolished, and the most valuable portion of its materials sold. A little to the S. of Brougham Castle is a lofty stone obelisk called Countess’s Pillar. It was erected in 1636 by the Countess Anne Clifford, to commemorate her final parting | with her mother on the spot where 105 Haute 20 .—Brougham Church : Hall — Ashham. the pillar stands. It is ornamented with dials and armorial quarterings, and bears an inscription. Brougham Ch., dedicated to St. Ninian, was repaired in 1GG0 by- Anne, Countess of Pembroke. Under trap doors in the floor of the chancel are some remarkable carved slabs. One of the figures bears a round shield, of the kind known as a “ rondache ” (see Archseol. Journal , vol. iv.). 2J m. Brougham Hall (Lord Brougham), m. from Penrith, is built on a natural terrace on the bank of the Lowther, in a charming situa¬ tion, and commands varied and ex¬ tensive prospects. The property was in 1727 purchased by John Brougham. Esq., the grandfather of the late ex¬ chancellor Lord Brougham, from its then proprietor, Mr. Bird. While in his possession it was called “ Bird's Nest.” The Hall is a castellated mansion, and considerable part was rebuilt in 1829 and 1810. The staircase and library, though modern, are in perfect keeping with the old building, and the result of the whole, with panelled walls, fretted roofs, carved work in wood, much of it executed on the spot, is to render the house one of the handsomest and most pleasing resi¬ dences in the north. The approach to the Hall is through a gateway leading into a quadrangle. The entrance- hall, which is occasionally used as a dining-room, is decorated with old armour and stained glass ; and on the buffet is a profusion of gold and silver plate, which, with the gorgeous windows, give to the hall, although it is far from being spacious, a very splendid appearance. All the rooms well merit close attention, from their singularly fine oak carvings and tapestry. The carved-oak bedsteads are splendid specimens of workman¬ ship, and in keeping with the other antique furniture. The corridor is painted in imitation of the Baveux tapestry. There are a few good pictures in the library and drawing¬ room, and some family portraits; one by Hogarth. Two purses in which the great seal was carried by the late Lord Brougham when Lord Chan¬ cellor have been ingeniously converted into drawing-room screens. The Chapel especially deserves not¬ ice for its singularly fine carved-oak fittings and stained-glass windows. Over the altar are carvings of the 15th centy.; one of Christ bearing the Cross, and the other the Cruci¬ fixion. The grounds belonging to the Hall command fine views. A circular thatched summer-house, with mossv seats, contains the inscription,—- “ Beneath these mossgrown roofs, this rustic cell, Truth, Liberty, Content si ques f ered dwell; Say, you who dare our hermitage disdain, What drawing-room can boast so fair a train? ” 2J m. is * Arthur's Round Table. It originally consisted of a vallum of earth, about 300 ft. from crest to crest, but of the circle has been cut awav ■i * to form a road, so it is not easy to speak with certainty. Inside the rampart is a broad berm, then a ditch, and in the centre a plateau, about 170 ft. in diameter, slightly raised in the centre. Traces of only one en¬ trance now remain, but two existed in Pennant’s time (1772), and are figured on his plan of the monument. (See also Rte. 26.) Close at hand is Mayborough,t an¬ other curious circle. The vallum, or enclosure, is entirely composed of water-worn stones of uniform size, taken from the bed of the Eamount or Eden rivers. A splendid monolith stands near the centre about 12 ft, in height, (See also Rte. 26.) G m. Askham village on the 1. bank of the Lowther, from which there is a short walk to f See ‘ Rude Stone Monuments,’ by Jas. Fergusson, 1872, p. 128. 106 Route 20 .—Lowtlier Castle: Pictures. Of m. Lowther Castle (the Earl of Lonsdale). This magnificent struct¬ ure, which is shown every day but Sunday, is situated 5 m. from Penrith on the rt. bank of the Lowther. It is built of a light rose-tinted freestone, which, contrasted with the deep green of the woods surrounding it, produces a very pleasing effect. It is modern Gothic, designed by Smirke, but without any true under¬ standing of the real character of domestic style, and it presents to the N. a castellated, to the S. a Gothic front. The approach is from the N., by an arched gateway, with a porter’s lodge, from which an embattled wall extends E. and W., and encloses the entrance court. A handsome flight of steps leads to the grand entrance. The N. front is 420 ft. in length, and has 40 turrets. The views are as different from the two fronts as the character of the fronts them¬ selves. The S. presents a beautiful but contracted lawn, terminated by the park woods : the prospects from the N. front are extensive, ranging over a wide extent of fell, forest, and mountain. The whole appearance of the castle is that of palatial magni¬ ficence. The terrace-walk, 90 ft. in breadth and 400 ft. in length, is per¬ haps the greatest attraction, the views from it being unsurpassed in West¬ morland. Tourists, in general, see little of the beauty of the grounds, being satisfied with the view from the terrace; but the whole course of the Lowther, from Askham to the bridge under Brougham Hall, should be ex¬ plored, presenting, as it does, almost at every turn, some new and charm¬ ing combination of river and wood¬ land scenery. The Entrance Hall of the castle is decorated with ancient armour and modern arms. In the Corridor there are some remarkably fine oak carvings and mosaics. Pictures.—Many out of the sub¬ joined list are now no longer to be seen, having been destroyed by the dis¬ astrous fire of a few years back, from which less than half the collection were rescued. The Study contains choice specimens of Ostade , Vander- woof ., Wouvermans, Teniers , and Gerard Dow; a picture of Christ and the Tribute-money, by Valentino; Soldiers Quarrelling at Dice, by the same master; and a picture of the Earl of Dorset, by Vandyck. Breakfast-Room. —A fine Holy Family, by Rubens; the Finding of Moses, by Titian ; Charity, by Van- dyck; a Virgin and Child, by Sasso- ferrato; the Oyster Supper, by Jan Steen; and specimens of Teniers and Wouvermans. Drawing-Room. —The Ascension, by Raul Veronese ; the Slave-market, by Zuccarelli; and a portrait of Pitt, by Hoppner. Small Drawing-Room. — Lady Mary Lowther, by Opie; the Adora¬ tion, by Bassano; and a fine Land¬ scape, by Poussin. Boudoir. —St. John preaching in the Wilderness, bv Salvator Rosa : and a Landscape, by Poussin. The Library contains numerous family portraits. Staircase. —A full-length portrait, by Titian; St. Francis kneeling iu prayer, by Guido Reni; a Landscape, by Albert Cuyp; Landscape, by Decker; Portrait of a Spanish Gene¬ ral, by Titian; Ceres, by Giorgione; a Boy, by Murillo; St. Jerome, by Salvator Rosa; the Magdalen, by Tintoretto; Portrait of a Venetian Nobleman, by the same master; Be- lisarius, by Rembrandt; a party of Men and Women, bv Paul Veronese. A Gallery is exclusively appro¬ priated to portraits of eminent per¬ sons, natives of Westmorland; an¬ other gallery is filled with pictures, principally early and rough works by Hogarth. This gallery also contains fine pictures by Snyders , boar-hunts, &c., removed from Whitehaven Castle; j Route 21 .—Penrith to Whitehaven. 107 and the infant Christ and St. John, by Leonardo da Vinci. The Gallery of Sculpture and An¬ tiquities is unequalled as a private collection by any in the kingdom, and abounds in Greek and Roman statuary, ancient tombs, and mural tablets. On the Hackthorpe Hall farm, near Lowther, there used to be a fine barrow, about 27 yards in diameter. It was removed in 1867, and found to contain a circle of large stones about 22 yards in diameter, within which were about a dozen interments, a carefully constructed cist, and evi¬ dent traces of burning. An orna¬ mented urn, 7 in by 12 in., also found here, is now at Lowther Castle. At Askham, on the Lowther, at a short distance from the Castle, is an ancient castellated Hall, the pictur¬ esque seat of the Ven. S. Jackson, late Provost of Queen’s College, Oxford. ROUTE 21. PENRITH TO WHITEHAVEN, BY KES¬ WICK, CQCKERMOUTH, AND WORK¬ INGTON— RAIL. A single line. Trains 4 times daily, in 50 minutes, to Keswick, 18 m.; and 1 hr. 25 min. to Cocker- mouth. The line on leaving Penrith makes a sweep to the N.E. 3| m. Blencow Stat. m. Penruddock Stat. At Stone- car, near here, are the remains of a British village, and less than 1 m. N.W., at Whitbarrow, near Motherby, those of a Roman camp (see p. 109), with a stone circle close by, in which a large quantity of bones was dis¬ covered. [2 m. N. is Greystoke Castle (Henry Howard, Esq.), situated on an eminence at the S. extremity of a noble park of 5000 acres. The castle is modern, little remaining of the old fortress, which was built about the middle of the 14th centy., when Walter de Greystock obtained the King’s permission, in 1353, to castel- late his mansion-house of Greystoke. In the civil war it was garrisoned for the King, and besieged and taken by a division of Lambert’s army, and burnt to the ground. The restorer of the castle was the Hon. Charles Howard, great-grandfather of Charles 11th Duke of Norfolk, who is said to have planted annually 20,000 trees in the park. From the time of Henry I. to Henry VII. the place belonged to the Greystock family, when the male line became extinct, and it descended to Elizabeth, daugh¬ ter of the last Lord Greystock, who married Lord Dacre of Gilsland. It came into the Norfolk family on the Earl of Arundel marrying one of the co-heiresses of Lord Dacre. The house is built of freestone, obtained from quarries on the estate. The W. front has a fine terrace, 560 ft. in length and 25 ft. in width, and is shaded by limes and sycamores. Two fine sheets of water ornament the park. The interior of the castle is not shown, except in the absence of the family. It contained a valuable collection of pictures of great his¬ torical interest, but a great many were destroyed by the calamitous fire of the 4th of May, 1868. Among those rescued from the flames were a scene in Venice by Canaletto, some fine landscapes by Wilson, a portrait of Erasmus by Holbein, and a few pictures by Holland. Among 108 Route 21 .—The the curiosities is a picture iu silk embroidery, representing the Cruci¬ fixion, said to he by Mary Queen of Scots. A hat, said to have belonged to Thomas a Beckett, was burnt. The Ch., dedicated to St. Andrew, contains a nave, choir, and 2 aisles, and is said to be the best specimen of the Perp. style in the county. The E. window is of rich stained glass; the subjects relate to the life of St. Andrew. The large lock on the N. dcor was given two centuries ago by the cele¬ brated Countess of Pembroke. The vestry is of great interest, as it seems to have been a reclusorium, or anchor- hold, like those at Rettendon, in Essex, and at Chipping Norton. The tower has a circular staircase. In a pane of one of the N. windows is a representation of a red devil, almost unique, though there is one at St. Mary Ottery, in Devon, very similar. There are several brasses, including one to “William le bone Baron ” (ob. 1359 at Brancepeth Castle). Near the altar is a fine alabaster tomb, under a rich Gothic canopy, of two of the Barons of Grey- stock, supposed to be Ralph de Grey- stock and his son. The monument is of the age of Edward II. or III. 3 m. from Greystoke are the re¬ mains of the Castle of Bacre, moated on three sides, long since converted into a farmhouse. In a wall of the kitchen or hall is a piscina, with an E. Eng. trefoiled arch with orna¬ mented cusps. Notice the signs of a door in the middle of the wall and corbels, which evidently supported a minstrel’s gallery. The castle was built in 925, and was the seat of the ancient family of D’Acre, which name they are said to have acquired from their bravery in the siege of Acre, under Richard I.; but it is a doubtful tradition, the place having been known by its present name in the time of Athelstane, in whose reign a congress was held here. Like Castle of I)acre. other families in the district, the Dacres probably took their name from the place. A monastery here is men¬ tioned by Bede (731). The castle was built, judging by the style of the windows and masonry, in the 13th centy. In the centre, between the towers, is an escutcheon, which bears the date of that part of the building. William of Malmesbury mentions a congress held at Dacre about 927, when Constantine, King of Scotland, and his son Eugenius, King of Cum¬ berland, met King Athelstan, and did homage to him. There is a room called the room of the Three Kings. After the Conquest, the manor was held by the Barons of Greystock by military tenure. The Dacres were men of spirit and gallantry. Matilda, the great heiress of Gilsland, was carried off by Lord Dacre, in the night, from Warwick Castle, while she was a ward of Edward TIL, and under the guardianship of Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. Thomas Lord Dacre followed the example of his ancestor 170 years afterwards, by carrying off, also in the night, from Brougham Castle, Elizabeth of Greystock, the heiress of his superior lord, who was also the King’s ward, and at the time in the custody of Henry Clifford, Earl of Northumberland, who probably in¬ tended to marry her himself. The Ch., dedicated to St. Andrew, contains the monument of a Knight Templar. In the N. aisle is a mural monument to the memory of Sir Edward Hasell, Knt., and a marble monument, by Chantrey, to Edward Hasell, Esq. The first Lord Ellen- borough received the rudiments of his education at Dacre endowed school. Over the door of the old schoolhouse was the inscription—■ “Ye young rejoice at this foundation Being laid for your edification! ” In the ch.-yd. are 4 curious but much defaced monuments, commc- 109 Route 21 .—Castle Sowerby — Caldbeclc. morative, it is supposed, of the achievements of the Dacre family. Down to the early part of the last centy., a curious funeral custom pre¬ vailed in the country round Grey- stoke. The people around, some of them living many miles away, were obliged to bury there, and corpses were regularly borne by the neigh¬ bours, women as well as men, to a certain stone at the town-head 1 m. from the ch. The rest of the w r ay the coffin was carried on napkins. 1 m. to the N. of Greystoke is Castle Sowerby. In this parish is a hill, called Castle Hill, the top of which w r as some years ago cut into, and a chamber, 18 yards in diameter, discovered, supposed to have formed a hiding-place from Scotch ma¬ rauders ; but it is probably more ancient, whatever subsequent uses it may have been adapted to. There are several estates in the parish called Red Spears, the owners of which held them by the singular service of riding through the town of Penrith on Whit-Tuesday, brandishing spears. The order of the Red Knights, Brac- ton says, “ Debent equitare cum do¬ mino suo de manerio in manerium , vel cum domini uxore .” In times of peace they performed this ancient service, to challenge, it is presumed, any w r ho might dispute their lord’s title. The “ red spears ” were the sureties to the sheriff for the peace¬ ful behaviour of the inhabitants. In the adjoining manor of Dalemain the tenants were obliged under the penalty of forfeiture to give notice of an enemy’s approach by sounding a horn, and to serve in the border wars, marching in the van on the advance, and in the rear on the return. Bowscale Tarn is 8 m. from Castle Sowerby. The walk to it is one of wild and varied beauty, through a mountain valley shut in by lofty hills. The tarn is about 1 m. in circumference, and is noted for the singular superstition of the two im¬ mortal fish referred to in the song at the Feast of Brougham Castle, on the return of the Shepherd Lord (p. 81). W. of the village of Motherby, and only a few hundred yards from Pen- ruddock Stat., is a Roman camp, with a stone circle close by. The camp is oblong, being about twice as long in the N.W. direction as in that to the S.E. No signs of any building remain. Carrock Fell, which rises above Bowscale Tarn, is covered for nearly a mile with smooth water-worn stones, varying in size from pebbles to boulders weighing 300 tons, composed of porphyry. On the summit is an imperfectly-defined circle of stones, which is generally regarded as having surrounded a primeval fort. An excursion as far as Caldbeck, at the foot of Brocklebank Fell, would take the tourist through some of the wildest scenery in Cumberland. The village of Caldbeck is in a mountain vale, and a stream, which often be¬ comes a foaming torrent, divides it into two parts, which are connected by wooden bridges. Near the village is the picturesque cascade of the Howk, which falls into a narrow glen fringed with firs. Following the path leading to the waterfall, you come to a cave called the Fairies’ Kirk ; beyond which is a singular natural excavation, called the Fairies’ Kettle, into which the water rushes through a hole in the rock, and ap¬ pears as if it were in a state of ebul¬ lition. In Caldbeck ch.-yd. lies the famous foxhunter John Peel, the subject of the song which is known all over the world. He was born in Nov. 177G, and maintained his famous pack of houuds for 55 years. The banks of the Caldew, from Caldbeck to Sebergham, are noted for their beauty : and the river affords excellent sport for the angler.] 110 Monte 21.— Troutbeclc- 9§ m. Troutbeok Stat.,$ 9 m. from Ullswater. A coach to Patterdale daily in summer. The huge mass of Saddleback now forms a grand and striking feature as the rly. descends the valley of the Glendaramakin, which below Threlkeld Stat. is joined by the St. John’s Beck and becomes the Greta, a very picturesque stream, which is crossed by the rly. on 8 or 9 bridges. 14J m. Threlkeld Stat., a village at the foot of Saddleback, and at the mouth of St. John’s Yale. 18 m. Keswick Stat., wdiich, with the adjoining Keswick Hotel, stands on a hill at the foot of Latrigg and Skiddaw, about 1 m. from Derwent- water Lake, hut out of sight of it. [For description of Keswick and its environs, see Rte. 14, p. G8.] The rly. passes on the 1. Southey’s resi¬ dence, Greta Hall, and Crossthwaite Ch., where he was buried; it is then carried by embankments over the low ground which divides Derwentwater from Bassenthwaite Lake, and which is often so much flooded in winter that the two lakes become one. It crosses the Derwent and Newlands Beck, then skirts the shore of Bassen¬ thwaite ; Skiddaw on the rt. is a grand feature in the scenery. [For description of Bassenthwaite Lake, see Rte. 15, p. 79.] 20 m. Braithwaite Stat. The most convenient point from which to begin the ascent of Grisedale Pike, or Causey Pike. It is at the foot of Whinlatter Pass. 24| m. Bassenthwaite Stat. Close to the foot of the lake. For the ascent of Skiddaw from this point, and descent upon Keswick, see Rte. 15. On Elva Plain, N.W. of this stat., there is part of a stone circle, about 100 ft. in diameter. 30| m. Cockermouth Stat. $ (5353). -Coelcermouth : the Castle. The town is beautifully situated on the 1. hank of the Derwent, and at the confluence of that river with the Cocker. It is an ancient borough, and consists principally of a single wide street. Since the Act of 1885 it gives its name to a division of the county which returns one member to Parliament. There are a cotton-mill or two and some other manufactories, which are increasing. It was the birthplace of the poet Wordsworth. In the principal street, proceeding from the rly. stat., is an old mansion on the 1. recessed from the street. In this the poet was horn 7th of April, 1770. The house has been very little altered since. The Castle (Lord Leconfield) was once a place of considerable strength, and was built, Camden says, on an artificial mound, which is question¬ able. The remains are extensive, but the only tolerably perfect part is the gateway, which is more modern than the walls. A portion of the castle was converted into a modern residence by General Sir Henry Wyndham. Henry I. conferred Aller- dale below Derwent, on Waldtheof, son of Gospatric,the Earl of Northumber¬ land. To his descendant Anthony de Lucy, the castle was granted by Ed. II. Maud Lucy carried it to Percy, first Earl of Northumberland. The gateway bears the arms of Um- fraville, Lucy, Neville, Multon, and Percy, and must therefore have been erected by this Earl. The general plan of the castle is curious, being the shape of a modern rifle bullet, pointing W. Between the outer and inner courts are vaulted dungeons, which could be entered only by openings at the top, through which the prisoners were let down. There are some remains of the hall and chapel. The oldest portion is the keep, probably built early in the 13th centy., under which is a vault, 30 ft. square, entered by a descent of 12 steps, and lighted by a small grated Ill Route 21.— Papccistle — Bridelcirlc. window. The vault has groined and intersected arches, and is supported by an octagonal pillar in the centre, and by pilasters at the corners and sides. This underground chamber was probably used as a place of safety when the fortress was attacked. The style is E. Norm. In re¬ moving the rubbish, which had ac¬ cumulated in the inner court, the plan of the original structure was exposed, and it showed that along the whole front had run a piazza, which formed a handsome approach to the state-apartments. This piazza followed the line of the cliff or bank of the river, and was lighted by G large windows; 3 of these bear traces of elaborate workmanship. In 1648 the castle was besieged by the Parliamentary forces, taken, burned, and reduced to the condition in which, with the exception of the modern additions, it now is. The Church is modern in the E. Eng. style, and was built on the site of the old parish ch., which was destroyed by fire in 1851. The pillars are alternately octagonal and round, with foliated capitals. The E. window is a memorial to Words¬ worth, subscribed for by the inhabit¬ ants of his native town. The font is richly sculptured. The hills on the rt. bank of the Derwent consist almost entirely of a calcareous stone, composed of shells. [Papcastle (3 m. rail), formerly a Roman stat.; the fosse may still be traced a little above the village. Coins of the Emperors Claudian, Adrian, and Geta have been found here. The site was well chosen for a fortress, being on the S. slope of a hill, with a rapid river below. 2 m. N. of Cockermouth is the village of Bridekirk, interesting on account of its ch. and curious ancient font. The village is prettily situated in a well-wooded country. The tower is peculiar, tapering to the summit. There were 2 E. Norm, doorways; that on the N. side had been walled up, and its arch converted into a window ; the one under the S. porch was elaborately sculptured with a curious but almost obliterated imagery. One of the pillars of the doorway was ornamented, the other plain. The old ch. is now taken down, and a new ch., just to the W., copies the chief details. Notice a tine Norm. arch. The Font, formerly placed within the altar rails, is a very curious specimen of mediaeval workmanship. It is of freestone, and some of the sculpture is singularly well executed, particu¬ larly the folds of the drapery of the figures. It is supposed to have been carved about the 12th cent. On one side, in the upper division, is a mon¬ ster with 2 heads, one bent over its body to the ground; the other erect with a triple flower on one stem protruding from its mouth; The compartment beneath represents John the Baptist immersing the Saviour in a font; round his head there is a nimbus, and above it the defaced figure of a dove. On another face is the rude figure of a centaur defending himself from the attack of some animal; below is a representation of the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise; Adam is appealing to the pity of the angel, while Eve is cling¬ ing to the tree of life. Another side exhibits the Cross with ornamented foliage ; below is a shield supported by 2 birds, probably ravens. In one of the lower compartments is an inscription in Runic characters, which has been translated by Prof. G. Stephens: — “ Kikarth with care he wrought me, And to this beauty brought me.” In the opinion of the learned German Professor Munch the first portion records the names of the person who wrought and of the person who presented it to the ch., the name being in both cases undecipherable. The sculpture above the inscription 112 Route 21.— Brigham — Workington : Coal-fields. consists of grapes, birds, and other emblematical figures. Tickell, the poet and friend of Addison, was born in this village.] Brigham Jn. [Here is a branch by Papcastle and Dearham (4 m.) to Bull Gill Jn., on the Maryport and Carlisle Rly.] Ch. (c. 1060) with grand Dec. chantry ; some Norm, arcading and much Early Eng. work. Restored 18G1 and 1876. 36 m. WORKINGTON $ Stat. Pop., less than 8000 in 1871, had reached 13,300 in 1881, and is rapidly in¬ creasing. It is a seaport on the 1. bank of the river Derwent, 1 m. from the sea, of considerable import¬ ance in the coal and iron trades. The harbour is provided with two piers and a breakwater. The town is surrounded with collieries and iron¬ works. The export of coal is chiefly to Ireland. There are 8 furnaces of the W. Cumberland Haematite Com¬ pany, for smelting the rich ore which abounds in the district. The col¬ lieries also employ a large number of hands. The coal-mines, as at White¬ haven, extend for some distance under the sea. The seams are very irregular, being disturbed by numer¬ ous faults ; it was near one of these, II fathoms under the sea, that the roof of a mine gave way some years ago ; and, as the galleries of the mine were 20 m. in length, the pressure of the water produced gusts of wind, the roaring of which was heard at a great distance. The thick coal- measures of Workington are thrown out S. of the town by a large fault, upheaving the lower strata, which occupy an extensive plateau stretch¬ ing from Harrington to the hills N. of Moresby. Another great fault, with a downthrow to the S.W., again brings in the productive measures of Whitehaven. Between this fault and the village of Parton the beds dip to the E., so that all the coal- seams below high-water mark crop out under the sea, and the coal can¬ not be extracted by reason of the water which finds its w r ay between the planes of stratification. In some positions the coal has been followed for more than 1 m. under the sea. “ From Harrington, as far as Flimby, N. of Workington, a large unwrought coal-field is supposed to exist; from Workington to Mary¬ port the general dip of the strata is N.W., and the coal crops out inland, where it has been worked from very early times .”—Hull on the Coal-fields of Great Britain. “ The carboniferous strata of Cum¬ berland extend along the whole coast from the N. side of St. Bees Head to Maryport, and they are generally associated with, and covered by, the new red sandstone. It contains many thin worthless beds of coal; but there are 8 or 10 in which it has been very profitably worked. Its aggregate thickness is not less than 1000 ft. The whole deposit once consisted of alternations of sand and finely lami¬ nated mud, with countless fragments of dried vegetables, sometimes matted together in thick and widely-extended beds. Occasionally the plants are upright, and so entire that they seem to have been drifted from the spots on which they grew; in such cases the coal-beds are the indications of forests and bogs, submerged during the changes of level between land and water. In course of time the drifted sand-beds became sandstone; the mud became slaty clay, or shale ; the vegetable deposits were biturni- nized ; and the w'hole formation passed into the condition in which we now see it.”— Sedgwick. After the defeat of her army at Langside, Mary Queen of Scots landed at Workington, having crossed Solway Frith in a fishing-boat, with a few attendants, destitute of money and without even a change of raiment. She was hospitably received at Work¬ ington Hall, the family-seat of the 113 Route 22 .—Whitehaven to Wastwater. Ourwens, situated on an eminence E. of the town. The line from Workington to Whitehaven is the Carlisle, Working- ton, and Mary port Rly. 4§ mi. Harrington Stat. The port is small, and is used for the shipment of the iron ore and coal, the produce of the district. A large quantity of pig-iron is also shipped here. It has a small pier and a shipbuilding yard. 5 m. Parton Stat. In 179G the Harbour of Parton was entirely de¬ stroyed by a hurricane. About 1 m. to the 1. is Moresby, which produces much coal, and has some fine quarries of limestone. There are near it the remains of a Roman station, probably a fort for the protection of the coast. The agger is still traceable, and some of the stones of the S. wall remain. Moresby was the station for the Roman galleys which defended this part of the coast. St. Bridget's Ch. was built 1822. 1 J m. Whitehaven. [For descrip¬ tion see Rte. 2, p. 26.] ROUTE 22. WHITEHAVEN TO WASTWATER, BY EGREMONT, CALDER BRIDGE, AND GOSFORTH. Egremont, $ by rly. 5 m., a neat market-town on the rt. bank of the Ehen, which flows from Ennerdale Lake. Pop. 5976 (1881; in 1871, 4529). Among the gifts made to the [English Lakes.'] Abbey of Holme Cultram, we read of iron mines at Egremont. The remains of the Castle are situated on an eminence close to the town. It was built early in the 12th cent, by Will, de Meschines, Earl of Cumber¬ land, to whom Henry I., about 1120, granted the barony of Copeland, lying between the rivers Duddon and Derwent. His d. and heiress married William, son of Duncan II., of Scot¬ land, from whom it descended to the families of Lucy, Multon, and Fitz- walter. About 1528 it was bought by Henry Percy, 6th E. of Northum¬ berland. In a survey taken in 1578 it is described as “ all most ruinated and decayed,” with “ a pleasant dry ditch,” and a “ base court, now called the Castlegarth.” The principal re¬ mains are a square tower, entered from the S.W. by a Norm, doorway with a groined arch, and a portion of the wall which probably separated the outer from the inner wards. There is also a gateway with the grooves for the portcullis still visible. This is of a more recent date than the other portions of the castle. A deep moat surrounds the ancient walls, which exhibit a few specimens of the peculiar masonry-work called herring-bone, which is said only to be observed here, at Brough, and in one or two other castles in England. Little is known of the history of this castle beyond its having long been the residence of the lords of the great barony of Copeland. In 1300 one claimed to have a gallows at Egre¬ mont, and a field near the castle is still called the Gibbet Holm. In the 15th year of the reign of King John the castle and its demesnes were seized in forfeiture by the king, in consequence of the Lady Ada Lucy having married without his consent, but they were restored on the payment of a fine. The legend of the “ Horn of Egre¬ mont ” is connected with this castle. Sir Eustace de Lucy, Lord of Egre¬ mont, and his brother Hubert, left I 114 Route 22 .—Colder Bridge—Ponsonby Hall. Egremont to join the crusade in the Holy Land. Sir Eustace on his de¬ parture blew the horn which was always suspended over the gateway of the castle, and which could only he sounded by the true lords of Egremont, saying to his brother, “ If I fall in Palestine, return and blow this horn and take possession, that Egremont may not be without a Lucy for its lord.” When in the Holy Land, Hubert bribed 3 ruffians to throAV his brother Sir Eustace into the river Jordan. Supposing him dead, he returned to England and took possession of the castle, not venturing, however, to blow the horn ; but while giving a banquet to the retainers he suddenly heard a blast from the horn, which was suspended at the castle gate, and knowing that his brother, Sir Eustace, alone, as the rightful owner could have sounded it, he started from his seat and fled by the postern-gate. The gate was then opened to Sir Eustace, who resumed his usurped rights. His brother is said to have died in a con¬ vent. The legend is the subject of one of Wordsworth’s poems. The old Norm. Ch., ruinous, but interesting for its fine E. windows, arcade, pulpit, and font, has been pulled down. The new edifice preserves some of its features, and has 3 good windows by Waites. Calder Bridge, $ 6 m. The beautiful remains of the Abbey are 1 m. from the village. The best approach is by a charming shrubbery walk on the 1. bank of the river Calder, to which tourists are allowed access, and which leads to the ruin and mansion. The river scenery here is extremely beauti¬ ful, the banks being steep and wooded. The walk is entered from a gate in the ch.-yard. The Abbey was founded a.d. 1134, by Randolph deMeschines, for monks of the Cistercian order, and was an affiliated house to Furness Abbey, an abbot and 12 monks having been sent from the parent monastery to settle at Calder in the reign of Henry I. The ch. and conventual house were built of red sandstone. The ruins are not very important in themselves, but extremely pictu¬ resque. Of the W. front of the abbey little remains but the fine Norm, doorway, and a circular arch with plain mouldings. The nave is late Norm.; of the S. side nothing re¬ mains. The N. has 5 pointed arches with flat mouldings springing from piers now gracefully wreathed with ivy and honeysuckle. The ch. had N. and S. transepts, with a tower at their intersection, a part of which remains. On the S. of the choir are 4 arched recesses, one of which formed the doorway to a side chapel; the others were apparently sedilia. The E. end is entirely gone, but there are a few remains of cloisters, which show that they were beautiful specimens of E. Eng. In the N. transept are 3 effigies of knights in mail armour, but much mutilated, 2 with shields. The monastery was dissolved a.d. 1536. Calder Abbey, although much smaller and less ornate than Furness, was a very perfect specimen of the ecclesiastical archi¬ tecture of the age. The four arches springing from the intersection of the nave and transepts are unbroken. As a site for a monastery the spot could scarcely be surpassed, sheltered as it is by lofty hills, and a fine river flowing within a few yards of the house. Ponsonby Hall, ^ m. from Calder Bridge, the seat of Edward Stanley, Esq., was built in 1780. On the park gates are the family arms. The hall is picturesquely situated on an eminence commanding striking views of Calder Abbey, the mountains, and the sea. It contains some good paintings, including 6 on copper, by Holbein, viz., Henry VIII., Anne Boleyn, Chaucer, Ben Jonson, Lati¬ mer, and Cranmer; together with portraits of John Stanley, the royalist ] Iloute 22.— Gosforth — Strands. Sir G. Fleming, St. (Bp. of Carlisle), by Vanderbanch ; G. E. Stanley, Esq., by Opie , and his lady by Romney , together with numerous other family portraits. Two very curious documents signed by Crom¬ well and Fairfax, granting a free pass to John Stanley, are shown; also a very richly-carved oak bed¬ stead, supposed, from the coat of arms on it, to have been made in 1345. It was brought from Dale- garth, in Eskdale, the ancient seat of this branch of the Stanley family. The river Calder flows through the grounds, and walks have been cut through the woody banks, leading down to the river, which is spanned in several places by picturesque rustic bridges. The scenery is enchanting. The sandstone is much worn away by the river, which is in many places overhung by vast ledges of rock, under which the water settles in deep pools, or foams and whirls under pendent branches, which almost touch each other from the opposite banks. It is a place which, once seen, can never be forgotten. The ch., which has been modernised, stands in the park; it is embellished with some tolerable stained glass. Gosforth, $ 3 m., a straggling village, remarkable only for an ancient cross in the ch.-yard, of Danish origin, 14 tj ft. high. In 1881 and 1882 the cross was carefully investigated by the Rev. W. S. Calverley and Prof. Stephens, of Copenhagen, and the result has been a complete explana¬ tion of the design. The probable date is the 7th cent. The figures all represent well-known incidents in Scandinavian mythology, adapted to crude notions of Christianity. It should be compared with the crosses at Dearham and Ruthwell. The top of the cross is perforated; the sides are sculptured with the figures of men and animals, the meaning of which has given rise to mucharchaso- logical discussion. The figure of a 11 s man on horseback on one side is repeated in an inverted form on the other. The base is circular, and measures 40 in. in circumference. The cross probably formed a sepul¬ chral monument. At a distance of 15 ft. (the same which we find at Penrith and at Kirksanton, near Sile- croft) there is a fragment of another cross, which may have formed a part of the original monument. A slab, which once lay horizontally between the two, was removed some years ago, and the octagonal stump of the second cross was converted into a sun-dial. In 1882 a block was found beside this sun-dial, carved with a hart trampling a serpeut under foot, and Thor fishing for the great Mid- gard Worm. This block was un¬ doubtedly part of the shaft of the second cross. The ch. has an open belfry, with the date 1G54, and 3 bells, one of which was brought from a joss-house in China, by the late Admiral Sir H. Senhouse, and is facetiously called the “ dumb-bell ” by the parishioners, from its cracked and uncertain sound. The road from Gosforth to Strands crosses the bridge over the river Bleng, | m., an im¬ petuous mountain-torrent, which has strewn its bed with huge boulders, brought down from the neighbouring hills. Scafell is seen to advantage from the high ground above Gosforth, as are the Screes, which dip abruptly into Wastwater, and the scenery for the whole distance to Wastwater is of a very striking character, the picturesque valley of the Irt being on the rt., and the mountains in front gradually rising in grandeur as they are approached. Strands, $ 3 m., convenient head¬ quarters for Wastwater, though of late years it has become more usual to proceed to Wasdale Head. A post- office. Wastwater is 1 m. from the village. Conveyances and boats may be hired at either of the inns. In a small cairn of stones near i 2 lie Route 22.— Wastwater. the Irt, 2 coin-moulds of plumbago weighing over 5 oz. each were fouud in 1865. The coins imitated proved that the coiner lived about the time of Henry VII. Wastwater (204 ft. above sea- level), the most remarkable, if not the most imposing, of the English lakes. Its aspect is solemn, and even oppressively gloomy. It is the deepest of the English lakes (270 ft.), is 3 m. long, and rather more than § m. broad. The most conspicuous feature is the remarkable ridge or precipice called the Screes, which forms its S.E. boundary. The term is probably derived either from the Gaelic word, which is very similar in sound, or from the Norse screda, signifying a fall of stones or snow from a moun¬ tain. The word is in common use throughout the Lakes. It has been termed a mountain in decay ; debris, the accumulation of ages, cover the sides. In winter masses of rock are constantly rolling from the heights into the dark waters below, and the noise of their fall is frequently heard at Strands. The road runs along the N.W. side of the lake for about 3£ m. to Wasdale Head. The naked, tree' less shores of this remarkable lake give it an aspect of desolation para- lelled only by some of those dismal sheets of water in the highest regions of the Alps— “ There gleam no lovely trees of hanging wood, No spot of sunshine lights its sullen side, For Horror shaped the wild in wrathful mood, And o’er the tempest heaved the moun¬ tain’s pride.”— Wilson. Wastwater is seen to the greatest advantage on a gloomy day, and the impression which it is calculated to produce will only be experienced in its full force when the clouds are sullenly gathering on the hilltops, and the lake assumes that aspect of “ grim repose ” which precedes a mountain storm. The first view of it through the woods of Wasdale Hall is impressive. On reaching the banks, the fine conical mountain, Great Gable, rising apparently di¬ rectly from the head of the lake, is the most striking object. Scafell, although much higher, does not stand out so boldly, and it is only when the end of the lake is approached that this monarch of English mountains can be duly appreciated. On passing, the visitor should look in upon the grounds of Wasdale Hall (John Musgrave, Esq.), permission being readily given at the lodge. Before the lake is reached, notice on the rt. the remarkable ravine of Hawl Gill, down which a stream flows, broken into numerous pretty cascades. In the summer of 1803, during a heavy thunderstorm, the rush of water from this gill was so great that it brought down large masses of earth and boulders which completely choked the outlet of the lake for two days. In the sides of the gill the granite, in consequence of the decomposition of the felspar, has shaped itself into miniature peaks or aiguilles. There is a vein of specular iron, and some haematite, near the top. The prin¬ cipal feeders of Wastwater are Over¬ beck, to the S. of Yewbarrow, and Nether Beck, to the N. of Middle Fell, both of which issue from moun¬ tain tarns. Near the head of the lake Great Gable is conspicuous; to the 1. is Kirkfell; on the rt. is Lingmell, and over it towers Sca¬ fell. There is certainly no mountain scenery in England or Wales which will bear a comparison with that at the head of Wastwater; but, to receive the full impression of its grandeur, it should always be ap¬ proached from Strands. Trout are found in the lake, but owing to the very low temperature of the water, and its great depth, it is late in the season before the angling commences, nor are the fish early in condition. July is esteemed the best month for sport. Another peculiarity of this lake anglers should be made 117 Route 22 .—Wasdale Head—Scafell. aware of. It is subject to sudden and violent squalls from the S., a quarter whence they might be least expected, as it would appear to be sheltered in that direction by the Screes. No lake presents so striking a contrast between the scenery of its two extremities as Wastwater. At its foot is an elegant villa residence embosomed in ornamental woods ; at its head are vast mountain masses, towering in naked grandeur over a treeless valley. Wasdale Head.$ This valley, at the N.E. end of the lake, was once famous for its red deer, but is now enclosed, and contains about 400 acres, divided by stone fences into small fields. A “ statesman ” of Wasdale Head, who lived in the last century, is said to have inherited his property in a course of uninterrupted descent for 700 years. Tourists often take up their abode for a few days at Wasdale Head, attracted by the sin¬ gular wildness and sublimity of the scenery. As a centre for rock-climb¬ ing it has hardly a rival in England. The chapel is one of the smallest in England, and the solitary bell sus¬ pended in the open belfry may be often heard in stormy nights mingling its tones with those of the thunder and the wind. The pulpit is lit by a single pane of glass inserted in the roof. Scafell (3208 ft.), the central mass from which the Cumbrian moun¬ tains branch forth in all directions, the different valleys diverging from it, “ like the spokes of a wheel from an axle” ( Introd ., p. viii.). There are strictly 4 summits to Scafell: the highest is the Pike; Scafell, at the other extremity, and overlooking Burnmoor and Eskdale, is 3161 ft. above the level of the sea; Great End, the northernmost point, rises above Sty Head, and Lingmell above Wasdale. The 2 principal heights are separated by a deep gorge called Mickledore ; but, although only 1200 yards apart in a direct line, a circuit of 2 m. is often made to go from one to the other. Mickledore may easily be crossed, but the ascent of the rocks on the Scafell side is rather intri¬ cate. Three routes are usually fol¬ lowed, viz., “ The Chimney,” a narrow gully some 50 yards below the ridge, on the E. or Eskdale side, steep, and not over easy to emerge from ; the ordinary “ Broad Stand ” route, start¬ ing at a very narrow vertical fissure about 20 yards below the ridge, and then surmounting 3 high “steps ” of rock. Both of these ways, though short, involve real climbing, and should be attempted only by experi¬ enced cragsmen. The third way is longer and more laborious, but quite practicable for elderly people. It descends on the W. or Wasdale side of the ridge to a conspicuous square gully, floored with scree, called “ Lord’s Rake.” On mounting this the stupendous rock-ravine of Deep Gill, flanked on the N. by the Scafell Pillar, rises on the left hand. On the Pike is a pile of stones erected by the Ordnance Surveyors, which marks the summit of the mountain. The mass of Scafell is composed of green slate. The strata have in many places been contorted by an upheav¬ ing force and present phenomena very interesting to a geologist. The ascent of Scafell is more trying than that of either Skiddaw or Hel- vellyn; it can be accomplished either from Borrowdale, Langdale, or Esk¬ dale, but the least difficult is from Wasdale Head, whence the summit may be reached in about 2 hrs. For a considerable part of the way the track is well defined, skirting at first the side of Lingmell. In fine settled weather a tourist may make the ascent alone ; but the suddenness with which mists make their appearance at great heights, and their utterly bewildering effect upon the inex¬ perienced, make it always prudent to engage a guide. 118 Boute 22 .—Black Sail The summit of Scafell is composed of huge blocks, covered with lichens and moss, the colours of which “surpass those of flowers, the most brilliant feathers, and even gems. ’ — Wordsworth. The view from the Pike combines all that is most grand and beautiful in the Lake district,— Eskdale, Borrowdale, the Yale of the Duddon, Langdale, the mountains below Scafell, Great Gable, Grassmoor, Pillar, and the other Ennerdale mountains, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, the Scotch, and occasionally the Welsh, mountains, and the sea. A pedes¬ trian, instead of returning to Was- dale Head, may descend into Eskdale by way of Mickledore, at the bottom of which is a narrow ridge like the roof of a house, which slopes down into Eskdale on one side, and into Wasdale on the other ; but the descent into Eskdale is over terraces of slippery turf, and down slanting sheets of bare rock, which make the enterprise one of some difficulty. If Eskdale should be the tourist’s object, it would be better to descend a few hundred yards towards Wasdale Head, and then, following a natural terrace on the flank of Scafell round the shoulder on a gentle descent, and keeping always to the 1., take the path over Burnmoor to Boot. By crossing the shoulder of Scafell higher up, the descent to Burnmoor Tarn and Boot may be made very direct and rapid. Langdale may be reached from Esk Hause, passing Angle Tarn on the rt., and over a ridge of rocks just beyond, descending into Lang¬ dale down the gully or watercourse of Rossett Gill. The passes which diverge from Wasdale Head are the Sty Head, leading to Seathwaite in Borrowdale ; the Black Sail Pass, from Wasdale Head to Ennerdale; and the Scarf Gap Pass from Ennerdale to Butter- mere (Rte. 17). The Black Sail Pass (1800 ft.) leads out of Mosedale, the vallev Pass—Sty Head Tarn. N.W. of Wasdale, over the lowest point between Pillar (1.) and Kirkfell (rt.). From the foot there is a good track down the dale to Gillerthwaite, a farm 1 m. above the head of the lake, and beyond it to the Angler’s Inn at the foot of Ennerdale Water. But the great majority of tour¬ ists simply cross Ennerdale and mount to the pass of Scarf Gap (1100 ft.), which is conspicuous on the opposite side of the valley, and slightly lower down. From it the view of the deeply-scored face of Pillar Fell, and of the famous Rock, is very striking. On reaching the level ground at the head of Butter- mere, cross to Gatesgarth Farm, and on reaching the high road turn 1. to 2 m. Buttermere (Rte. 17). The Sty Head Pass to Borrowdale is free from difficulty, the bridle-road being well defined the whole way. The track winds along the side of Great Gable, one of the most striking and picturesque of the Wasdale mountain group. The summit of the pass is 158G ft. above the level of the sea. Sty Head Tarn lies rt., a little beyond the highest point of the pass, and Green Gable and Great Gable are conspicuous on the 1.; the N. base of Scafell (Great End) is on the rt. The first peep from the top of the pass into Borrowdale is very striking and beautiful. One of the finest excursions in this portion of the lake district is to leave the summit of the Sty Head Pass and scale Great Gable, proceed thence over Green Gable to the top of Honister Crag, look down upon the slate quarries (p. 87), and descend by the very steep but safe ridge to Gatesgarth and Buttermere. Grander or more exciting mountain scenery than this excursion affords is scarcely to be found in England. This is the most usual route for as¬ cending Gable, and is perhaps the easiest; but from Wasdale there is a 119 Route 22 .—Pillar Fell—Santon Bridge. more interesting and much shorter way, though at one point it involves a few feet of easy climbing. The stream from Beckhead, the col be¬ tween Gable and Kirkfell, is crossed about 1 m. from the Inn. From this point a steep shoulder (called the Neese, i.e. Nose) leads direct to the summit, and is the only way of avoid¬ ing the steep and rocky screes which impede all ascent on this side of the mountain. The grand crags called Great Napes are seen close by on the rt. The Hon. Lennox Butler slipped off the side of Great Gable, which looks towards Kirkfell, and which was at the time covered with snow, in the winter of 1864-5. He was descending the ridge which connects Great Gable with Kirkfell, and had stepped on the frozen snow just above a ledge of rocks which runs parallel to the ridge, and at a small distance below it. A fall over this ridge either killed him at once, or rendered him insensible. His skull had been fractured apparently on some of the large stones immediately at its foot. He had afterwards slipped for a con¬ siderable distance over screes con¬ cealed by a covering of snow. Another fatal accident occurred here in 1882, when Mr. Pope, a Dissenting minister, lost his way while descend¬ ing in a slight mist, and fell over some rocks to the N. The view is generally admitted to be finer and more varied than that from Scafell Pike. The Isle of Man is usually visible, and on exceptionally clear days even Snowdon and the Carnedds. Pillar Fell is usually ascended from Wasdale Head by turning 1. from the summit of Black Sail, or a little before, and then following the ridge of the mountain, which has the addi¬ tional landmark of a wire fence all the way. The summit is very flat. Proceed N.E. from the cairn, and on reaching the edge of the plateau notice the famous Pillar Rock below. A very rugged descent of some 500 ft. leads to the rock. In snow-time a slip here would probably be fatal, and proved so in 1883 to a lad named Walker. The easiest ascent of the rock is from the E. side, and is well marked by the scratches of boot- nails. Strong walkers may visit all the principal nits, of Wasdale Head in one long day, by mounting behind the Inn to Yewbarrow, and then circling round Mosedale along the hill-tops by Red Pike, Windy Gap, and Pillar to Black Sail Head. Thence over Kirkfell and Great Gable to Sty Head, and bv Great End, Scafell Pike and Mickledore to Scafell, and so back to Wasdale Head. This grand round will probably occupy at least 8 hours of hard walking. Better time may be made by taking it in the reverse direction. Returning from Wasdale Head to Strands, the tourist may proceed to Eskdale. [A pedestrian will do well to take the path from Wasdale Head over Burnmoor to Boot, 5 m., where there is a small and tolerable Inn, nearly in the centre of Eskdale.] Santon Bridge $ (2 m.). The scenery of the river Irt, where it is crossed by the Bridge, is very pleasing. The river contains salmon and trout. On the 1. bank is Irton Hall. The mansion was built on the site of an ancient castle, of which the two towers and a portion of the old baro¬ nial hall remain. The banks of the Irt, which flows through the grounds, are remarkable for their sylvan beauty. The summer-house near the Lodge is worth a visit for the prospect which it commands. The Irt formerly produced pearls, which are said to have been obtained in considerable quantities. It was, as is well known, the report of the existence of pearls in the rivers of Britain that excited the avarice of the Romans, and led to their invasion 120 Route 23.— Whitehaven to Carlisle . of the country ; and the river Irt was doubtless one of the places in which they were to he found, hut they proved ill-coloured and of small value. The mussel producing them is the Mya Margaretifera, which is still found in the river. Camden says that the pearls are formed from dewdrops, “ of which the fish are exceedingly fond,” and for which they open their shells at night; and Lysons says that “ the mussels sucking in the dewy stream conceive and bring forth pearls, or, as the poet calls them, shell-berries.” Bede speaks of them as of all colours, and says that those which are not bright and shining are “as useful in physic as the finest, though not so beautiful.” The Church of Irton was rebuilt in 1795. It contains a monument to Admiral Lutwidge, under whom Nelson served in 1773, on a voyage of discovery to the Arctic regions. There is an ancient richly-sculptured cross in the ch.-yard, 10 ft. in height. The road now passes over a low spur of the Wastwater Screes, forming the watershed between the Irt and the Mite. Crossing the latter valley, it comes close to the Eskdale Ry. at Irton Rd. Stat.,and soon after crosses the line and reaches the King of Prussia Inn. For the rest of the way (2 m.) to Boot the road keeps on between the rail and the river Esk. | m. short of Boot a schoolhouse is seen 1., and a road r. leads across a beautiful deep pool of the Esk to the celebrated Stanley Gill Fall, about 1 m. distant. For Eskdale and the road to Amble- side, see Rte. 3. ROUTE 23. WHITEHAVEN TO CARLISLE, THROUGH WORKINGTON, MARYPORT, ASPA- TRIA, AND WIGTON— BY RAIL, 35 m. The rly. follows the line of coast until within 2 m. of Workington. 3 m. Workington (See Rte. 21). From Workington the rly. follows the indentations of the coast, and is thrown into numerous curves. To the rt., after quitting the coast-line, is Ellenborough, the place from which Edward Law, first Lord Ellen¬ borough and Chief Justice of the Court of King’s Bench, took his title. A fine Roman gateway with the arch entire was discovered here in 1787, but not preserved. 7 m. Maryport St at. $ A town of modern creation. Pop. 8126 (1881; in 1871 it was 7113). In 1750 there was only one house on the site of the present town, which is built along the shore, and on the sandy heights above the mouth of the river Ellen, which here falls into the sea. Ch. (1760) is of stone, with a sq. tower and very fair organ. An Athenaeum was built in 1857 at a cost of 25002. The staple is coal and pig- iron. There are shipbuilding-yards and a few manufactories of checks and linens. The pier is of stone, with a long wooden addition project¬ ing 300 yards into the sea. A capa¬ cious wet dock has been added to the port. The arrangements for bringing the coal to the ships by tramway, &c., are excellent. On the cliff, a little to the N. of the town, are the remains of the large Roman stat. Virosidum. 121 Route 23 .—Nether Hall — Allonhy. Its position gave it a commanding view of the Solway Frith and the Irish Channel. The camp was a very large one, and the line of its ramparts is well defined, but the ditches were much deeper within living memory than at present. The E. side, the only one not defended by a natural defile, was protected by a double fosse. There are some traces of masonry near the gateway on this side, which renders it probable that the entrance had been protected by outworks. Some portions of this gateway remain ; the approach was found to be indicated by the tracks of chariot-wheels. The ruts were about 5 in. deep, and 5 ft. 10 in. apart. Within the stat. is a well. The interior of the stat. was exca¬ vated in 1766. The following ac¬ count of the appearances which it then presented, is given by Lysons :— “ The workmen found the arch of the gate bent violently down and broken; and, on entering, the great street disclosed evident marks of the houses having been more than once burned to the ground and rebuilt. The streets had been paved with broad flagstones, much worn by use, particularly the steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have been a temple. The houses had been roofed with Scotch slates, which, with the pegs that fastened them, lay confusedly in the street. Glass vessels, and even mirrors, were found, and coals had evidently been used in the fireplaces. Foundations of buildings were round the fort on all sides.” Several Roman relics were found in 1879, when the quarry on the sea-shore below the camp was reopened to provide stone for the new docks. In the grounds of Nether Hall (II. P. Senhouse, Esq.), a short dis¬ tance from the town, is an embank¬ ment supposed to mark the site of the hospital of the Roman garrison of Virosidum ; it is in a sheltered posi¬ tion well adapted for such a purpose. The Roman stat. at Maryport has yielded numerous and important re¬ mains of antiquity, which are pre¬ served at Nether Hall. In the cor¬ ridor there is a bas-relief of a warrior on horseback, triumphing over a fallen enemy; the drawing, although not very correct, is very spirited. There are also many altars, mural tablets, sepulchral monuments, inscriptions, and rude sculptures, to¬ gether with coins, cooking-vessels, broken glass and pottery, iron imple¬ ments, &c. The largest altar found here was given, in 1683, by John Senhouse, Esq., to Sir John Low- ther, and it is now in the entrance- hall of the .Castle at Whitehaven. The next largest altar discovered is now at Nether Hall; it is very ele¬ gantly designed and in good preserv¬ ation ; the inscription is clear and well cut, and quite perfect. It is dedicated to Jupiter by the 1st Spanish cohort and their tribune, M. Agrippa. A large roughly-hewn head of Jupiter is placed on this altar, but it had no original connec¬ tion with it. There are other altars, more or less perfect—1 dedicated to Mars, 1 to the Goddess Setlocenia; 2 Victories holding a wreath inscribed “ Victoria Augustorum Dominorum Nostrorum very curious. There is a tablet dedicated to TEsculapius, with an inscription in Greek. In 1870, 17 altars were found in this neigh¬ bourhood. 4 m. Bull Gill Junct. A branch line to Cockermouth and the S. starts from here. [On the I, after passing Mary¬ port, is the small watering-place of Allonby $ The sands are extensive. The lodging-houses are small, but the place is much resorted to in the bathing season. The stat. for Allon¬ by is Aspatria, 4 m., or Bull Gill. There is no omnibus or regular conveyance.^ 122 Route 23 .— Aspatria—Old Carlisle. 8 m. Aspatria Stat.$ (Loop line by Mealsgate to Wigton 10 m.), a euphonious corruption of Gospatrick, the name of the 1st Lord of Aller- dale, is an irregular village, 1 m. long, on the edge of a sandy ridge, and in the centre of a fertile agricultural dis¬ trict. 2 m. N.W., at Aigle Gill, The Batteries are probably the site of a Boman camp. About 200 yds. N. of the village, on a rising ground called Beacon Hill, was an ancient barrow, which, on being opened in the last centy., was found to contain the skeleton of a man measuring 7 ft. from the head to the ankle-bone; on his 1. side was a broadsword 7 ft. long, the guard inlaid with silver, and at his rt. side a dagger, richly chased. The Ch. is modern, built in 1848 on the site of the old one (St. Kenti- gern). It is of E. Eng. style com¬ bined with Norm. The W. doorway possesses a rich, deeply-moulded, chevron Norman arch, and is a fine specimen of modern workmanship. The tower is handsome, and has a pinnacle at one of its angles. There is some tolerably good stained glass : E. window, and several memorial side- windows are handsome. A side- chapel contains monuments of a younger branch of the Musgrave family, which settled at Hayton, 2 m. from Aspatria; the castle is now a farmhouse. This chapel has been restored, and the colours and gold employed in its decoration give it a very rich appearance. Near Aspatria is Brayton Hall, the seat of Sir Wil¬ frid Lawson, Bart. An archaeologist might find an ex¬ cursion to Caer Mote, 3 m. S. of Aspatria, interesting. It is to the W. of Ireby, the Arbeici of the Bomans. There are remains of a square camp enclosed with a double fosse. On the N. side stood a beacon, which must have commanded the whole extent of the Solway Firth, and would naturally receive the first tidings from a frontier stat, of any attempt of the Caledonians to cross the Frith. The signal would then be communicated to the garrison of Keswick, by the watch-tower on the top of Castle Crag in Borrowdale. At Bolton is a Ch. with a curious groined roof, 10 m. Brayton Stat. Here a branch line 1. crosses the Solway to Annan, and so joins the Caledonian system. 1G m. Wigton Stat.$ Pop. 394S (1881 ; in 1871 it was 3425). The town is built of red brick, and was once the seat of a considerable cotton manufacture. Coal is raised within 3 m. The town stands in an open country, which is said to be the most healthy district of Cumberland, and is highly cultivated. Caldbeck Fells and Skiddaw are visible to the S. Smirke, the architect, was born here. The Ch. was built in 1788, on the site of an older one said to have been constructed of the stone taken from the ruins of the Boman stat, [Old Carlisle, distant 1 m. from the town. The remains are extensive, covering many acres. The fort was oblong, and defended by a double fosse. It stood on the military way leading to Carlisle ; the Boman name is unknown. No traces of masonry are visible, but the whole is covered up with turf and brambles. The river Wiza runs below it on the S. and W. All that is known of this Boman station is that an ala or wing of a Boman legion, called for its valour Augusta, was quartered here in the reign of the Emperor Gordian, as appears from several mural inscrip¬ tions found among the ruins. A great many images, equestrian figures, eagles, coins, &c., have been dug up, and more might doubtless be dis¬ covered by a careful exploration. The ramparts and sites of the interior buildings are boldly marked; the 4 gateways are well defined. A double 123 Route 23.— Wig ton Chur eh—Ralston Hall. ditch, with an intervening vallum, seems to have surrounded the fort. The remains of suburban buildings may he seen without the walls, on the N. and E. Within the fort a street may be distinctly traced from the N. to the S. gate, and another from the E. towards the W. Near the centre of the station is a moist spot which may have been a well. “We cannot contemplate the posi¬ tion of Old Carlisle and its associated camps without appreciating the mili¬ tary skill which suggested the ar¬ rangement. A circular line of camps, —Stanwix and Carlisle, Brough, Drumburgh, Bowness, Maryport, aud Morseby,—begirt the N.W. of Cum¬ berland ; and Old Carlisle is the point in which the radiating lines from these several stations would centre. Should an army break any one of these links of the outer chain of forti¬ fications, the garrison of Old Carlisle would be ready to receive it. On this point, too, the garrisons of the coast, if repulsed, could fall back and prepare with increased force to renew the attack. By means of outlook- posts on the peaks of the elevated ridge of mountains to the E. and W. of the station, information could easily be conveyed as to what was passing on the frontier, and commu¬ nicated to the garrisons in every di¬ rection .”—Bruce on the Roman Wall. The prospect from the highest part of the camp is fine.] The Church, of Wigton is plain, and possesses no archaeological in¬ terest. There is an old tombstone in the ch.-yd., the inscription on which, now almost illegible, was cut by the vicar, the Rev. Sir Thomas Warcop, Bart., and the monumental slab was kept in his house until he died. It bears the date 1653, and runs thus :— “ Thomas Warcop prepared this stone, To mind him oft of his best home: Little but pain and miserie heere Till wee be carried op our beere. Out of the grave and earthy dust The Lord will raise me upp I trust, To live with Christ eternallie, Who, me to save, himself did die.” The market of Wigton, until the middle of the 17th centy., was held on Sundays in the churchyard. The butchers hung the carcases of the animals on the ch.-doors, and cut them up after divine service. Sir Thomas Warcop went to London expressly to present a petition to Charles I. for changing the market- day, in order to avoid the desecra¬ tion, and it was accordingly changed from Sunday to Tuesday. Near Wig¬ ton is Crofton Hall, the seat of Sir Robert Briscoe, Bart., and Highmoor House (H. P. Banks, Esq.). 21 m. Curthwaite Stat. 1 m. to the 1. is Thursby; the Ch. is said to have been built by David, King of Scotland. At this place once stood a temple dedicated to Thor, the founda¬ tions of which were discovered about the end of the last century, and an image of the god dug up: a relic of the Scandinavian worship, which was probably introduced into this part of England by the Danes. Thor- worship was widely disseminated amongst the common people of Scan¬ dinavia at the introduction of the Christian religion, and the traces of Paganism still to be found in Goth¬ land and Norway are remnants of Thor-worship. In certain parts of the country, about 100 years ago, Thursday was still regarded as a kind of holiday, on which no heavy or serious work was to be done, and there are said to be old women now living who will not churn on Thursdays. 3§ m. Dalston Stat., a considerable village on the 1. bank of the Caldew. There is a cross at the E. end, orna¬ mented with coats of arms. 1 m. N. is Dalston Hall, a fine old mansion with a peel tower. [Rose Castle, 3^ m. S., the chief 124 Route 24 .—Carlisle to Sillotli. residence of the Bishops of Carlisle since the time of Edward I. It was much changed and some portions entirely rebuilt in the last century by Bp. Percy, under the direction of the architects Rickman and Hutchinson. The castle was in partial ruins even before the civil war of 1615, when it was twice cap¬ tured from the Royalists, and was afterwards advertised for sale as “ a decayed castle, well built with hewn stone.” Edward I. made it for a short time his residence while pre¬ paring his last expedition against Scotland; and the writs for as¬ sembling a Parliament at Lincoln were dated there. The castle was besieged, sacked, and burned by the Scots in 1322. It is approached be¬ neath a picturesque gateway, over which is sculptured, in the red sand¬ stone, a representation of the Rose. Amongst the most notable features of the castle are Bp. Strickland’s tower to the E.: this represents the original peel tower, the origin (as usual) of the more extended buildings; rebuilt by Bishop Strickland in the loth centy.; a tower in the N. front, built by Bp. Bell, 1196 ; and another on the W. side, by Bp. Kite, 1529. The staircase is of oak. The chapel was decorated by Bp. Goodwin. In it is kept the beautiful pastoral staff presented to him by the diocese. The view, from the bridge over the Caldew, of the castle with its woods and hanging gardens, is striking. Highhead Castle stands on Ivegill, 2 m. S.E. of Rose Castle. It occupies the site of an old fortified mansion, held by the Harcla family in 1322, and afterwards by the Richmonds.] The approach to Carlisle is in¬ teresting, and the scenery of the river Caldew, which the rly. crosses, is very pleasing. 35 in. CARLISLE Junct. Station. (See Rte. 18.) ROUTE 24. CARLISLE TO SILLOTH, BY BURGH- ON -THE - SANDS.—SOLWAY MOSS, NETHER BY— RAIL. 6^ m. Burgh Stat. (pronounced Bruff), at the edge of Burgh Marsh, celebrated as the place where Edward I. died shortly after having joined his army for the invasion of Scotland. The Marsh is an extensive plain of about 1500 acres, and over it now wander thousands of cattle, which are sent there to fatten. In 1307, it was whitened by the tents of an army of 10,000 men. After a protracted stay at Carlisle, the King proceeded to Burgh Marsh, and was received with acclamations by his troops, but he died in his tent a few days after his arrival. The monument to his memory. 1J m. from Burgh, was erected in 1685, on the spot where the King is supposed to have ex¬ pired, by Henry Duke of Norfolk. It is 28 ft. high, and on the E. side bears the inscription— MEMORISE ETERN.E EDVARDI I REGIS ANGLE® QUI IN BELLI ArPARATU CONTRA SCOTOS OCCUPATUS, HIC IN CASTRIS OBIIT VII JULII 1307 Burgh was a stat. on the Roman wall (Axelodunum), and there have been found near it many Roman re¬ mains. The Church is an ancient fortified stronghold—“ Half church of God. half castle 'gainst the Scot.” On any inroad from the Scottish border the cattle were shut up in the body 125 Route 24 .— j Drumburgh — Sillotli. of the eh., the windows of which are 8 ft. above the ground, and the in¬ habitants betook themselves to the large embattled tower at its W. end. The only entrance to this tower is from the inside of the ch. and it is secured by a ponderous iron door, fastening with 2 large bolts. The walls of the tower are 7 ft. thick. Its lowest compartment is a vaulted chamber lighted by 3 narrow slits in the wall. At the S. angle is a spiral stone staircase, leading to 2 upper chambers. At the E. end of the nave is another strong building, covering about the same area as the W. tower. This is a very rare feature. The stone of which the ch. is built was taken from the Roman wall. [Near Burgh is the site on which stood the castle of Sir Hugh de Morville, often confounded with the murderer of Thomas a Becket, who was contemporary with his grand¬ father. The barony of Burgh was bought by the Lowthers two cen¬ turies ago. 9 m. Drumburgh Stat. The Koman wall and rly. here run close to the village and Castle. It was fortified by royal licence dated 1307, and, ac¬ cording to Leland, built on old ruins, and of material taken from the wall. It is now a farmhouse. In the gar¬ den are two Roman altars, one being built into the wall. Behind the village are some re¬ mains—perhaps of a minor Roman camp. Houses called “ dubbins,” built of clay and straw, are not in¬ frequent about here. From Drum¬ burgh Stat. there is a branch rly. to Port Carlisle (2£ m.) on the Solway, with horse-traction. The carriage is called a Dandy. The harbour is the result of an attempt to bring Car¬ lisle into communication with the sea by means of a canal, which was opened in 1823, but converted 30 years later into a rly. Since the erection of Silloth into a harbour, Port Carlisle has relapsed into a dull fishing village. The Roman wall terminates at Bowness-on-Sea (1 m. from Port Carlisle), where there was a fort in a commanding position (Tunnocellum), situate on a rocky promontory. 12fm. Kirkbride Stat., the nearest point for Newton Arlosh Ch. (2 m. S.E.), for which see below. 17| m. Abbey Junct. Here the Solway Junct. Rly. diverges to cross the Solway, and joining the Caledo¬ nian at Kirtlebridge, places White¬ haven in direct communication with Glasgow. Close by stands what Scott calls “ Holme Cultram's lofty nave,” a Cistercian abbey, founded early in the 12th centy. The W. door, in late round-headed Gothic, and the fine nave, should be noticed. In 1600 the steeple fell, was then rebuilt, and in 1601 was burnt by the carelessness of the vicar's servant. In the same parish is the curious fortified ch. of Newton Arlosh, built 1309, and very similar to that at Burgh. 22J m. Silloth. $ The town is a modern creation, and is much resorted to for sea-bathing. The views of the Scotch coast are fine, and the moun¬ tain Criffel rises directly in front, on the opposite coast. A fine smooth green extends from the Solway Hotel to the seashore, The mean annual temperature of Silloth is 19°, 1° therefore higher than that of Hastings — the effect of the Gulf stream. The prevailing wind is S.W. The mean daily range of temperature is only 13° 2'. The climate is con¬ sidered highly favourable for pul¬ monary invalids. The port is of small importance. The dock (founda¬ tion-stone laid by Sir James Graham, 12G Route 24. — Wolsty Castle—Solway Moss-. in 1857) possesses an area of 5 acres, is built of stone, and has 20 ft. of water at high and 11 at low tide. A rly. is carried round the basin, which is furnished with cranes, coal- hoists, and hurries. A fine jetty, 1000 ft. long, projects into the sea ; at its end is a lighthouse. Near Wolsty Castle, 2 m. S. on the coast, Roman remains were discover¬ ed in 1880. Specimens of Samian and other pottery lay in a building about 20 ft. square. Of the said castle little is left. Camden mentions it as then in ruins. It was the seat of a family called Chamber. Steamers daily to Liverpool, and twice a week to Dublin ; also to Bel¬ fast, and the Isle of Man. [An excursion may be made from Carlisle to Longtown, 9J m., by the N. British Rly., on the 1. bank of the Esk. In the retreat of Charles Ed¬ ward, after his unsuccessful invasion of England, a portion of his forces crossed the Esk at Longtown, where the river was forded breast deep, to¬ wards the end of November. There were at one time 2000 men in the water, with only their heads and shoulders visible. On their reaching the opposite side the pipes struck up, and the men danced reels till they were dry. Arthuret Ch., built 1609, % m. from Longtown, contains many monu¬ ments of the Graham family ; among them a tablet to the memory of the Right Hon. Sir James Graham, Bart. The remains of the eminent states¬ man were interred on the N. side of the churchyard. Here is an ancient cross, the top of it broken, said to mark the grave of Archy Armstrong, the court fool of Charles I., who was a native of this place ; but it is more probably a Danish cross. The parish register shows that the jester was buried here in 1672, having retired to Arthuret after he was banished front court for having offended Archbishop Laud. A short branch line (trains 3 times a day each way) leads from Long¬ town to Gretna Green (4|m.), noto¬ rious as the scene of so many runaway matches. It is 3| m. from Longtown, and on the rt. of the road to it is Solway Moss, on the rt. bank of the Esk, a short distance from Long¬ town, the spot where, in 1522^ was fought the battle in which Sir Thomas Wharton, Warden of the West Marches and Governor of Car¬ lisle, defeated the Scotch army under Sinclair, the favourite of James V. “ The Scots crossed the border in order to invade Carlisle, and over¬ spread the country, burning and lay¬ ing waste all before them. The Lord Warden of the Marches lost no time in collecting the forces of the Border to oppose them; they speedily en¬ countered the Scots, and struck terror into the disorganised force. Few knew the ground, and 10,000 men in the darkness lost the route by which they had come, and strayed towards the sea. The tide was flowing at the time; some flung away their arms and struggled through, but vast numbers were drowned, and many surrendered to women, where there were no men to take them prisoners. The main body wandered into the Solway Moss, between the Esk and Gretna, where Wharton had them at his mercy, and the whole army was either killed or taken prisoners. Never in all the wars between England and Scotland had there been a defeat more complete, more sudden, and more disgraceful.” — Froude. The Solway Junct. Rly. crosses the Solway Firth from Bowness Point below Port Carlisle to the Port of Annan on the Scotch shore, 8 m. 127 Route 25 .—Carlisle to Gilsland Spa. below Gretna. It consists of two embankments connected by an open iron Viaduct Bridge, 19G0 yards long, in spans of 80 ft., resting on cast-iron piles with chilled points, 31 ft. above the Solway. Bowness Moss, on the Cumberland side, in parts an un¬ stable sponge 50 ft. deep, was re¬ duced by drains about 5 ft., and on this the line is laid upon faggots. Mr. James Brunlees was the engineer. The cost was £100,000. It joins the Caledonian Rly. at Kirtle Bridge, 17 m. N. of Carlisle. The drive up the banks of the Esk, above Longtown, is very pleasing. Netherby (Sir Frederick Graham, Bt .), 3 m. from Longtown, is situated on the 1. bank of the Esk. The mansion is in the centre of an ex¬ tensive and well-wooded park; the nucleus of the house is an old Border tower, with walls of great thickness; and on its site was a Roman camp, and probably a fort of considerable importance during the Roman occu¬ pation. No traces of the camp are now to be seen, though extensive re¬ mains are mentioned both by Leland and by Camden. The Grahams, or Grannes, seem to have been the most turbulent of the borderers, and con¬ stant disturbers of the public peace. The significant hint of the moss¬ trooper's mother : “ Ride, Rowley. Hough's i’ th’ pot,” is ascribed to one of them, and sufficiently indicates the manner in which their larder was usually replenished. Their “ god- man,” as the head of the clan was styled, had no control over them, and at length, by Royal proclamation, in the 1st year of James I., they were transplanted to Ireland, at the ex¬ pense of the country. Twice, how¬ ever, they came back and resumed their old courses. Great improve¬ ments, social as well as agricultural, have been effected in this neighbour¬ hood during the last century. Some very fine sculptures, altars, and tablets have been found at various times in the neighbourhood, and are preserved at Netherby, which has been identified with the Castra Ex- ploratorum of the second Iter of Antoninus. ROUTE 25. CARLISLE TO GILSLAND SPA, BY WETHERAL, CORBY, BRAMPTON AND NAWORTH CASTLE— RAIL. m. Wetheral Stat. $ A magnifi¬ cent viaduct, containing 5 arches of 80 ft. span and 100 ft. in height, here spans the tbickly-wooded Eden, and the views on both sides are admir¬ able. Corby Castle is a plain square mansion, built of red sandstone, with a Doric portico, and a balustrade round the house is surmounted with lions, the family crest of the Howards. The house, which is not generally shown, contains some good pictures; among them a full-length portrait of Lord William Howard (Belted Will), and one of Charles V. inform¬ ing his Empress of his intention to abdicate. The mansion is finely situ¬ ated on the edge of a lofty cliff, over¬ looking the Eden. Corby, on the attainder of the Earl of Carlisle in the reign of Edw. II., was forfeited to the Crown, whereupon it was granted to Sir Richard de Salkeld, Kt., wffiose descendants possessed it for many generations. There are several monuments of this family in the adjoining ch.of Wetheral. Corby afterwards became the property of the Howard family, The beauty of 128 llouto 25.— Wetheral the walks on the hank of the Eden cannot be surpassed. “ For Paradise’s seat no more Let travellers seek on Persia’s shore; Its groves, still flourishing, appear Upon the banks of Eden here.”— Ralph’s Poems. The grounds are shown on Wed¬ nesdays. Walks are cut through the woods down to the river, and are beautiful, particularly the turf walk, which extends for a considerable dis¬ tance along the margin of the stream. The foaming river, the lofty wooded crags and mural precipices, make Corby one of the most remarkable and attractive spots in the N. of England. On the opposite bank of the river are the cells cut out of rock in the face of a precipice called the Wetheral Safeguard, and sometimes St. Constantine's Cells, from a tradi¬ tion that St. Constantine, whose figure in stone has been placed on the bank opposite the cells, resided here when a hermit; but they more pro¬ bably formed a hiding-place or retreat for the monks of the adjacent Priory from the Scotch marauders or other enemies. The cells are three excava¬ tions in the solid rock 7 yards x 3 yards x 3 yards, and are 40 feet above the river. A ledge served as the foundation for a wall which was built in front of the cells, and formed a sort of gallery or covered passage. There are no traces of steps; the entry must therefore have been ef¬ fected by a ladder, afterwards drawn into the cells, which were concealed by hanging wood. Wetheral Priory, on the opposite side of the Eden. The remains are very slight, consisting only of a tur- reted gateway, with scarcely a trace of the conventual buildings, the site of which is occupied by a farmhouse. The Priory was founded in 1088, for monks of the Benedictine order. It fell with the other monasteries, and its estates were bestowed on the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle. The mon- Priory — ArmathiVaite. astic buildings are said to have been pulled down for building Prebendal houses with the materials. The situ¬ ation of the Priory was good; to the E. and S. are the hanging woods of Corby, and on the other side a highly picturesque country, “ the banks of the river affording many solemn re¬ treats, impending cliffs, embowering shades, still vales, and calm recesses for the resort of the meditative and religious.”— Camden. It was an ap¬ pendage to St. Mary’s Abbey, York. The Parish Ch. is in the Perp. style. The S. side appears to be of greater antiquity than the other. The tower was built in 1760. The ch. contains a small chapel, in which is the vault of the Howard family. Among the monuments is the cele¬ brated one by Nollekens, of Mrs. Howard, who died in childbirth. In the vestry there is a small Norm, doorway, which once formed the entrance to the ch. There are several monuments of the Salkeld family, one with a curious epitaph—■ “ Here lies Sir Richard Salkeld, that knight Who in his day was mickle of might; The Captain and Keeper of Carlisle was he, And also the Lord of Corkebye; And now he lies under this stane, He and his lady, Dame Jane.” [From Wetheral to the junction of the Eden with the Eamont, near Penrith, few districts in England possess a greater variety of beautiful river scenery. A pedestrian, instead of taking the rly. to Penrith, would do well to take the road by the 1. bank of the Eden, from Wetheral, through Armathwaite $ (7 m.) where he will cross the bridge to the rt. bank and proceed to Kirkoswald, from whence he may visit Nunnery, and then proceed to Penrith through Aldingham. The road here passes through the grand stone circle of Long Meg and her Daughters, then by Longwathby and Eden Hall. The distance from W'etheral is 26 m. i20 Houte 25 .—Grey Yawd—Naworth Castle . Kirkoswald will afford tolerable ac¬ commodation for a night. On an eminence in the middle of a dreary waste, at Cumwhitton, 4 m. from Wetheral, is Grey Yawd, a Drnidical circle composed of 88 large stones. A single stone, larger than the rest, stands out of the circle about 5 yards to the N.W. At Carlatton Farm near Cumrew is an ancient sepulchral slab of great interest. It is to Hen. de Newton, vie. of Car¬ latton (in 1320), and is remarkable for the rare combination of book, chalice and sword. From Armath- waite the views of the Eden and its banks are particularly tine. The river is spanned by a handsome bridge of 4 elliptic arches. 11 m. Brampton St. (formerly called Milton). Hence the market- town is reached (1| m.) by means of a “ dandy ” or steam tramway. See below, p. 132. An archaeologist may find the little ch. of Warwick (i§ m. N. of Wetheral) of<*some interest. It is very ancient, and is remarkable for its apse containing 13 narrow Norm, niches reaching nearly to the ground. In the upper part of each there was originally a small window; the niches, all but 3, have been filled up with masonry. These now form small lancet windows with stained glass. The W. door has a fine deeply- moulded Norm. arch. Warwick was for a short time the head-quarters of Prince Charles be¬ fore his attack on Carlisle. He was entertained at Warwick Hall, on the 1. bank of the Eden. The bridge of 4 arches over the Eden is handsome, and was finished in 1835. Holme Eden is a handsome mansion of red sandstone (1843) in the Tudor style, at a short distance from the bridge. Warwick Bridge, a village 1 m. [EnrHsh Lakes.] from Warwick, has some cotton manufactories. The new ch. of St. Paul, at Holme Eden, is handsome, and built of red sandstone.] 8 m. Naworth Castle (the Earl of Carlisle), ^ m. from the station, is one of the most interesting remains of the feudal age in England. It has been enlarged and a portion of it rebuilt after a fire which, a few years ago (Chas. Fergusson, Archt.) did consi¬ derable damage not only to the castle, but also to its valuable con¬ tents. The restorations have been so judiciously effected that the castle is still a very perfect and charac¬ teristic specimen of a great Border fortress, when war was the normal condition of the northern counties of England. Naworth was for many generations the stronghold of the Dacres of Gilsland. In the reign of Edw. III. the inheritor of the ancient barony of Gilsland determined on building a stronger and more impos¬ ing fortress, and fixed on the pictu¬ resque and wood-crowned heights of Naworth as its site. Lord Dacre built the castle in the usual quad¬ rangular form, and it was defended by a double moat. The angle of the S. front possessed massive battle- mented towers. A strong curtain wall enclosed the outer court, and the interior quadrangle was approached by a lofty archway, which opened from the narrow path on the very edge of a deep wooded ravine, which afforded a complete protection on that side. The principal historical interest of Naworth Castle is derived from its having been the residence of Lord William Howard, Lord Warden of the Marches, who kept in it a garrison of 140 men, and who was long the terror of mosstroopers, and the scourge of Scotch aggressors. Lord William, the 2nd son of Thomas, 4th Duke of Norfolk, became pos¬ sessed of this castle on his marriage in 1577 with Lady Elizabeth Dacre, one of the coheiresses of the baronies of K 130 Route 25 .—Naworth Castle. Gilsland and Greystock, after it had been the property of the Dacre fa¬ mily for more than 250 years. In 1605 Lord William Howard was appointed Warden of the West Marches. In the exercise of this office he displayed extraordinary energy. Fuller, the Church historian, says of his mode of dealing with the mosstroopers, that “they had two great enemies, the lawes of the lande and the Lord William Howard of Naworth,” and that “ he sent many of them to that place where the officer always does his work by daylight.” Great improvements were made in the Castle of Naworth on its coming into the possession of Lord William Howard. On the dismantling of the Castle of Kirkoswald (p. 102), he transferred to Naworth the fine oak ceiling and wainscoting, where they remained until destroyed by the fire in 1811. In the tower chamber, which Lord William Howard used as his library, there is a fine oak roof, curiously carved with heraldic bosses, enriched with gold and colours, a modern restoration effected under the direction of the Earl of Carlisle. Lord William Howard, whose ex¬ ploits made him in a subsequent age a liero of romance, is the “ Belted Will ” of the 4 Lay of the Last Min¬ strel,’ and by that name he was always familiarly called by the Bor¬ derers and the people of the district, in which he lived. Sir Walter Scott thus depicts him :— “ Costly his garb—his Flemish ruff Fell o’er bis doublet shaped of buff, With satin slashed and lined ; Tawny his boot, and gold his spur, His cloak was all of Poland fur, His hose with silver twined. Plis Bilboa blade, by Marchmen felt, Hung in a broad and studded belt; Hence in rude phrase the Borderers still Call’d noble Howard ‘ Belted Will.’ ” Lord William Howard was an in¬ tellectual and learned man, as well as a good soldier. Camden, who, with his friend Sir Robert Cotton, visited him at Naworth, describes him as an accomplished scholar aiid an excellent antiquarian, His devo¬ tion to study was so great that he often shut himself up in his tower for hours together. He died at Naworth, Oct. 9th, 1640, having attained the age of 77. The walls of the castle rise from the top of a deep and wooded ravine, and on the E. and W. sides two streams, tributaries of the Irthing, flow past it. The only side by which the castle could be assailed was the S., where it was defended by a double moat and drawbridge, and by lofty battlemented towers. The quad¬ rangle is now entered from a gate¬ way with an embrasured parapet, below which is a shield with the arms of the Dacres quartering those of De Vaux and De Multon, en¬ circled with a garter, supported by griffins, and crested with a collared bull. Passing through the Gothic archway, over which are the armorial insignia of the Howards, the quad¬ rangle is entered. A flight of steps conducts to the great Hall, 78 ft. in length. The fine open timber roof is from the design of Salvin. Along the whole length of the hall on each side are heraldic shields on the cor¬ bels, supporting the ribs of the roof. The Hall contains many family por¬ traits, some good tapestry and ar¬ mour. Of the portraits, 7 are on panel, half - length size: one of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, celebrated as Lord Surrey, the hero of Flodden Field ; Oliver Cromwell ; Queen Catherine Parr; a full-length por¬ trait of King Charles I., by Van- dyck ; a full-length portrait of Mary Queen of England; one of Anne Countess of Pembroke. At the end of the hall, over the dais, is an ad¬ mirable full-length picture of Lord William Howard, and Lady Eliza¬ beth his wife—the most interesting of the family pictures. In the Draw¬ ing-room, over the fireplace, is a picture of a mosstrooper crossing the border by moonlight. To the 1. is Itoute 25. —JSfaworth Castle—.Lanercost Priory. 13i Thomas Howard, 4th Duke of Nor¬ folk, who was beheaded temp. Queen Elizabeth : Lady Mary Howard, daughter of the 1st Earl of Carlisle, and wife of Sir John Fenwick, who was beheaded temp. William III.; and 3 very fine pieces of tapestry, representing Leander crossing the Hellespont. The library, bed-room, and oratory of Lord William still retain some of their original charac¬ teristic features. “ The apartments he occupied, the furniture he used, the books he read, the sword he had so often wielded for his sovereign, and the altar at which he knelt, were preserved so completely in their original state down to the time of the fire, that they carried back the visitor to the time when the Lord Warden in person might be heard ascending his turret-stair, and almost led you to expect his arrival .”—Sir W. Scott. The massive door, strongly clamped with iron, which guards the narrow staircase leading to the apart¬ ments occupied by Lord William, proves that even within his strongly- defended castle he took due precau¬ tions for his personal safety. The Oratory has been restored and deco¬ rated with gold and colours in the richest style of medigeval art by Salvin. The interior of the castle exhibits many contrivances for de¬ fence and retreat from the attacks of mosstroopers or other Border foes. “ The internal arrangement of the fortress seems to have been planned to keep an enemy out, or to elude discovery if he got in.” Some of the secret recesses and hiding-places are probably still unknown. The stair¬ cases are long, winding, and narrow, with doors opening to the more retired apartments, some strongly plated with iron. On Barnspike Crags a Runic in¬ scription was found in 18G4, and in 1872 a similar one was discovered at Highgrains Farm, on Hessilgill Crag, ^ m. from the last. [Lanercost Priory, \ m. from Na- worth Castle, situated in a beautiful wooded valley, with the river Ir- thing flowing by it. The Rev. J. Maughan argued for the existence of a Roman station (Petriana) at this point ; and Roman remains are abundant. The Priory Ch. is in the E. Eng. style. Contiguous to it was a monastery of the order of St. Au¬ gustine. Its endowments consisted of all the lands lying between the Piets wall and Irthing, and between Burgh and Poltross. The several grants made to the priory were con¬ firmed by charters of Edw. I. and Henry III. The latter king granted to the prior and convent the advow- son of 2 churches. Many other liberal donations were made to this monastery, some of them very cha¬ racteristic of the times, such as the tithes of venison, the skins of deer and foxes, tithe of mill, a pasture for milking and sheep, the bark of trees, a well or spring, and sundry villeins , their issue and goods. The convent, after its dissolution, was repaired and fitted up as a residence by Lord Thomas Dacre, who built the castel¬ lated addition at the S. end, which formed no part of the original edifice. The Priory was founded in 1169, by Robert de Vallibus, Governor of Car¬ lisle. Few vestiges of the monastic buildings remain, although they were once sufficiently extensive to accom¬ modate Edw. I. and his court while he was making his preparations for the invasion of Scotland. Edw. I. made three visits to this Priory ; one with his Queen Eleanor in 1280, another in 1300, and a third, 1306, with his Queen Margaret. In 1357 the house received a visitation from the Bp. of Carlisle, who compelled the canons to accept new statutes, and the Prior was enjoined not in future to frequent public huntings, and not to keep so large a pack of hounds as he had formerly done. Robert Bruce was at Lanercost with his army in 1311, and imprisoned several of the k 2 Louie 25.— Brampton—Low Low: Denton Hall. monks, but ordered them to be set at liberty after his departure. The monastery was pillaged by David King of Scotland in 1346. At the time of its suppression the establish¬ ment consisted of a prior and 7 canons. The shell only of the chancel of the ch. remains, but the nave has been restored and fitted up as a parish ch. It never had more than 1 aisle. The entrance is through a richly moulded doorway; above the window is a canopied niche, containing a figure of St. Mary Magdalen, to whom the ch. was dedicated, and the small figure of a monk kneeling bv her side. The W. window has 7 lancet arches, in only 3 of which are lights. The walls of the chancel and transepts are still standing, to¬ gether with the centre tower, but without a roof. There are some im¬ perfect remains of sedilia. On the S. side circular pillars support the dilapidated clerestory ; on the N. side both triforium and clerestory are tolerably perfect, but the arches are different, those on one side being pointed, and on the other round. In the choir is a side chapel containing several very richly-sculptured altar- tombs of the Dacre family, but much defaced. One of the tombs, the in¬ scription of which is obliterated, is supposed to be that of Lord William Howard; the priory ch. having been the burial-place of the Dacre family. The crypt, under the former refec¬ tory of the convent, is very perfect; and in it have been deposited some Roman altars and sculptures dis¬ covered in the neighbourhood. The Priory with its ch. is believed to have been built with stones taken from the Roman wall, several Roman inscrip¬ tions having been discovered on them. On the dissolution of the monasteries the Priory of Lanercost was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir Thomas Dacre, Kt,, a lineal descend¬ ant of the founder. It is now the property of the Earl of Carlisle.] Brampton, 14 m. from Naworth (2800), a small town, prettily situated in a deep and narrow vale. Here was a Roman station, the foundations of which were discovered when the churchyard was enlarged. It was Congavata, according to Mr. Mau- ghan ; near the town is a hill, called The Mote, 360 ft. high, surrounded with a fosse, which is supposed to have been either a Danish fort or a court of justice, as indicated by the Saxon w'ord mote. On the summit is a statue by Poley, R.A., to George, 7th Earl of Carlisle. It was erected in 1870. The hill commands an ex¬ tensive view, not only of the sur¬ rounding country, but also of the more northern of the Lake mountains. Prince Charles Edw r ard fixed his head-quarters here before he ad¬ vanced southwards. [2 m. from Brampton, on the banks of the little river Gelt, and 1^ from Gelt Bridge, on the stream called Hellbeck, is a rock, on wdiich is cut an inscription by the 2nd Roman legion (Augusta), which w r as sta¬ tioned here, under the command of Agricola, the propraetor. The cliff is nearly perpendicular, and the river washes its base. The scenery at this spot would alone repay a visit, but the tourist would scarcely find it without a guide. The inscribed face of the rock is about 5 ft. above the w r ater. . There are some doubts as to the precise reading, but the substance of it is that “ the vexillarii of the 2nd legion w r ere, in the consulship of Flavius Asper and Albinns Romanus (a.d. 270), employed to hew stone here for the Romans.” The inscrip¬ tion has been partially effaced by modern names!] 14 m. Low Row Stat. Denton Hall, an old moated house, long the residence of a family of the same name, is near this on the 1. The author of the w r ell-know r n MS. his¬ tory of Cumberland was of this Route 25 .— Gilsland — BurdoswaId. 133 family. It is in the parish of Nether Denton, in enlarging the vicarage of which, in 18G8, the remains of a Roman camp were found. On the same side of the rail (1.), 1J m. farther on, stands Over Denton Ch., built of stones taken from the Wall, and measuring only 51 ft. by 18 ft. It was restored in 1881. 20 m. Gilsland Stat.,$ formerly called Rosehill. The rly. and the Wall have been gradually drawing near to each other, and here cross at the boundary between Cumberland and Northumberland. 1A m. from the Stat. is Gilsland Spa, much resorted to in summer for its medicinal waters. An omnibus from the hotel meets all trains (6tZ.). The large hotel was built on the site of the old Shaws Hotel, which was destroyed by fire in 1856. It is a handsome building, in the Italian style, and contains a large public room, besides 15 private sitting-rooms and 120 bed-rooms. There are lodg¬ ing-houses in the vicinity. Charges for board and lodging at the hotel are, for first-class visitors, 8s. Gd. per day, including attendance; private sitting-rooms extra, from Gs. to 2s. The scenery, although without any grand features, possesses many attrac¬ tions. A sulphuretted stream issues from the bottom of the precipice 90 ft. in height and flows at the rate of about 2J gallons per minute. The analysis of the water is:— Common salt .... 20*05864 Carbonate of soda . . . 4*50296 Carbonate of lime . « . 1*462 Silica.1*1696 27-19320 There is also a chalybeate spring. “ The sulphate of iron, which is the most valuable ingredient in this water, is so strong that the 20th part of a grain mixed in a pint of ordinary water may be readily distinguished.” Gilsland Spa was visited by Burns in 1787, and is associated with Sir Walter Scott. Here, in 1797, he first met Miss Carpenter, the lady who became his wife. The “ Popping Stone,” where he is said to have m^e his offer, is on the bank of the stream. Gilsland is also the scene of a portion of 4 Guy Mannering,’ and supplied Sir W. Scott with some of his characters. One of the places visited from Gils¬ land is 4 Mumps Ha,’ or Beggars’ Hall, the house where Dandie Dinmont is represented in 4 Guy Mannering,’ as telling the news of Ellangowans death to Meg Merrilies. It was for¬ merly a public-house kept by Meg Carrick, who is said to have drugged her guests, that she might rob and murder them. A deep pond on the rt. of the road is showm, where Meg disposed, as it is alleged, of the bodies of her victims ; and a phosphorescent light is said to flicker nightly upon its waters. She died, aged 100, in 1717, and with her granddaughter Marg. Teasdale, who lived to the age of 98, is buried in Over Denton Ch.-yd. [Burdoswald, the Roman station Amboglana, is 2^ m. from Gilsland. The ground, over an area of 5 or 6 acres, is much scarred, and the fosse may be distinctly traced. The E. and in a less degree the W. and S. gateways are well-preserved. It is the largest station on the whole length of the Wall. When the rubbish which had accumulated for centuries about the gates was cleared away some years ago, the ruts formed by the Roman chariot-wheels were ex¬ posed to view. Many Roman altars, fragments of pottery, and coins have been found here. The Great Wall ran a little to the N. of Lanercost Priory, and near it is one of the mile castles, or stations. The place is provincially called Money Holes, in consequence of the frequent searches which have been made to discover supposed hidden treasure. 134 Route 25.— Alston — Beweastle: the Cross. After crossing a rivulet called Burth- dine Beck, a portion of the Wall, 7 ft. high, is seen, but the facing-stones are gone, and it presents the appear¬ ance rather of a mound, tufted with hazels and alders, than of a work of masonry. Alston, $ the capital of the lead¬ mining district of Cumberland, may be reached from Rose Hill stat. by railway, 1G m., hut as the mines are in a district as wild as any in Corn¬ wall, it can have little interest but for mineralogists and geologists. The mines are still productive, but not in so great a degree as formerly. In 1768 there were 119 lead-mines wrought in the parish of Alston alone, hut “ the earth here scarcely produces anything, except from its bowels, and the people are subterraneous.” 5 m. E. of Alston, at Nenthead, are some large and well-arranged lead-mining ivories well worthy of a visit. Nent Force Level is a hold underground canal, 5 m. long, by Smeaton. The extreme north-eastern part of Cumberland is a dreary and desolate district. 3 m. S.W. of Alston is the vast cavern called Tutman Hole. The archaeologist will not omit to visit Triermain Castle (3 m. W.), and Askerton Castle (6 m. W.), especially as both may be conveniently taken on the way to Beweastle, 10 m. by the road from Gilsland Spa, and 7 over the moor, highly interesting to an antiquary for the ruins of its castle and the cele¬ brated cross in the churchyard; but only a very zealous archaeologist will probably be tempted to enter so wild and forbidding a region. The castle is said to have been a Roman station, and garrisoned by part of the Legio Secunda Augusta , which was quar¬ tered in Cumberland to protect the workmen while building the Wall. It is now almost wholly in ruins, but part of its S. wall is standing, to¬ gether with its W. turret. It was one of the many northern possessions of Richard Duke of Gloucester, after¬ wards Richard III., and a dark and gloomy fortress of the most barbar¬ ous order. In 1G41 the castle was garrisoned by the king's troops, but, having been besieged by Cromwell, was reduced to its present ruined state. On the summits of the ad¬ jacent hills are some remains of an¬ cient British encampments, the out¬ lines of which may be easily discerned from a distance on a clear day. The Cross, or obelisk, in the ch.-yard must be classed among the most curious and interesting of Cumberland antiquities. Its age is conjectured to be about the 9th centy. It is a monolith, 14J ft. high from the pedestal, which is 3| ft. high, partly sunk in the ground; the shaft is nearly square, measuring 22 in. by 21 in. at the foot, and tapering to 14 in. by 13 in. at the top, where there was originally a cross, which has been broken off and lost. Many learned conjectures have been made with respect to the origin and meaning of this monument. By some it is supposed to have been the memorial of a Danish king slain in battle, or commemorative of a peace concluded between the English and the Danes. In one of the com¬ partments is the figure of a man with a raven perched on his wrist. In another is the figure of a saint, in a sacerdotal habit, his head surrounded by a nimbus. On the top is an image of the Virgin and Child, both heads encircled with the nimbus. On the N. side is a grejit deal of ornamental work with an almost effaced inscrip¬ tion. Lord William Howard, of Naworth, caused it to be carefully copied, and sent to Sir Henry Spel- man to interpret; but the task proved too hard for the great antiquary. The monument has been pronounced by Mr. Kemble, one of the highest authorities on Anglo-Saxon antiqui¬ ties, to be unquestionably Anglo- 135 Route 26 .—Penrith to Amhleside, Saxon. Finally, Prof. Stephens, of Copenhagen, pronounces the inscrip¬ tion to be Runic, commemorating Alcfrith, son of Oswi, King of Northumberland about 670 a.d. ROUTE 26. PENRITH TO AMBLESIDE, BY POOLEY BRIDGE, ULLSWATER, PATTER- DALE, AND KIRKSTONE PASS. For description of the town of Penrith see Rte. 18. 1 m. Eamont Br. Those who are studying the architecture of the old halls which are so numerous round Penrith, will visit Barton Kirk Hall. There is an old church near, but it presents no features of special in¬ terest. 1^ m. King Arthur’s Round Table and Mayborough are almost contigu¬ ous, the one on the 1. hand and the other on the rt. King Arthur’s Round Table is a circular plateau, surrounded by a ditch, with two ap¬ proaches leading to it, but the pur¬ pose of the construction is unknown. It has been conjectured that it was intended for a jousting-place, or tilt- ing-ground, but the moat seems to negative such a supposition. The place is evidently too small to have been used for tournaments, but it may have been designed for those exhibitions of single combat called liolmegang by the Northmen, or the duel of the girdle, in which the com¬ batants were prevented from running away by being buckled together by a girdle round their waists, and made to fight it out with their knives. It certainly was not designed for a place of strength. Some cuttings were made in it a few years ago, by the direction of Lord Brougham, but no discoveries were made. Close to the W. of the Round Table, but on the opposite side of the road, is Mayborough, a circular enclosure, about 100 yds. in diameter, formed by a broad ridge of rounded stones heaped up to a height of 16 ft. The space thus enclosed is now en¬ circled with trees, and in the centre is a large roughly-hewn stone. It is supposed to have been either a court of justice or a Druidical temple. It is said that many of the larger stones were taken away in the reign of Henry YI. for the repair of Penrith Castle. [On Moor Divack, the low range of hills 1., are numerous remains of an¬ tiquity. In addition to the Roman Road from Windermere to Penrith, there are several stone circles, and an upright stone called the Copstone.] Pooley Bridge, $ 5 m.: a Post Office. A steam yacht plies on Ulls- water ; the place of embarkation is 1 m. from Pooley Bridge. The coach takes passengers to the steamer, which makes the passage to Patterdale and back in about 3 hrs. 3 times a day. Boats may also be hired at Pooley Bridge for excursions on the lake. A stone bridge spans the Eamont. immediately below its efflux from the lake. Large quantities of eels are taken from the Eamont below the bridge on their migrating from the lake in autumn. There are fine views of Ullswater from the rising ground just above Pooley Bridge. A geologist may find a visit to Mell Fell, a hill 1657 ft. high, distant 3 m., interesting. It is formed of a conglomerate of rounded stones of various sizes bound together by a ferruginous calcareous cement. There are several lesser elevations of 136 Route 26 .— Ullswater—Ratter dale. the same character, which extend to the foot of Ullswater. The pebbles are apparently fragments of older rocks rounded by attrition, and must have been transported from some dis¬ tance, as they do not belong to the rocks of the neighbourhood; they were formerly assigned to the old red sandstone period, but are now con¬ sidered as belonging to the carboni¬ ferous. The junction of the sand¬ stone and limestone may be seen in a quarry near Greystoke. Ullswater, $ the grandest, although not the largest of the English lakes, should always be approached from the N.E., for if it is first seen from the opposite end it may create temporary disappointment. A road from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale, 10 m., passes along its W. shore. Ullswater has been called a miniature Lucerne ; and, in fact, it possesses a dignity and a freshness which give it a very Swiss character. It consists of 3 reaches, the northern one being the shortest; but the whole length of the lake is only 7J m. It varies in breadth from f m. downwards, and has an average depth greater than any of the other lakes. It is 477 ft. above the sea, and 210 ft. is the greatest depth. It is unquestionably the one which combines the greatest variety of at¬ tractions; portions of its banks pos¬ sessing the sylvan beauty of Winder- mere, while the mountain masses at its head are scarcely inferior in gran¬ deur to those of Wastwater. Cum¬ berland, who wrote in the last cen¬ tury, thus apostrophises it:— “ Thee, savage Thirlmere, now I hail; Delicious Grasmere's calm retreat, And stately Windermere I greet, And Keswick’s sweet fantastic vale; But let her naiads yield to thee And lowly bend the subject knee— Imperial lake of Patterdale! For neither Scottish Lomond’s pride, Nor smooth Killarney s silver tide, Nor aught that learned Poussin drew, Or dashing Rosa flung upon my view, Shall shake thy sovereign undisturbed right, Great scene of wonder and supreme delight!” The wooded hill to the rt. of Pooley Bridge, Dunmallet, or Dunmallard, is supposed to have been so named from its having been the resort of the wild fowl with which Ullswater once abounded; by others, derived from the Norse Dun Mat, or parley hill, in commemoration of some negotia¬ tion having taken place on it between two opposing chiefs ; but the “ Dun ” seems to point to a Celtic origin. It was ascended by Gray and by Chas. Dickens. The best view of the lake, as a whole, is to be obtained by taking the steamer from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale; on the rt. is Waterfoot (Captain Salmond, B.N.), on the 1. Swarth Fell is first seen, and on the rt. Little Mell Fell, while directly in front is Martindale House. Further on to the rt. is Halstead (W. Mar¬ shall, Esq.) ; after passing which the steamer enters the little bay of How Town, where it takes in and disem¬ barks passengers. The mountains at the head of the lake now begin to develop themselves, and the scenery gradually rises in sublimity. Catche- decam, or more properly Catstycam, one of the peaks of Helvellyn, now opens out, but the true summit is more to the 1. To the rt. are seen Gowbarrow Park and Lyulph’s Tower, a shooting seat belonging to the Howard family. On doubling the last promontory to the 1., Patter¬ dale is seen and the grounds of Patterdale Hall. The island, with a few firs on it, is called Duke’s Island. Glencoin valley, on the rt,, divides Cumberland from Westmorland. A little beyond is the Ullswater Hotel, opposite which is the mooring-place for the steamer. Patterdale. $ The Ullswater Hotel is close to the lake and the landing- place for the steamer, but convey¬ ances are always in waiting to take passengers on to the Patterdale Hotel, about a mile from the lake. The mountain which appears to rise di¬ rectly behind the Ullswater Hotel is Route 26 .—How Town—Ara Force. 137 Stybarrow Crag. The lofty peaks of Helvellyn are concealed. The conical hill directly over Patterdale is a spur of St. Sunday Crag. Although Ullswater is much visit¬ ed, and its two hotels are generally well filled, there are very few lodg¬ ing-houses in the neighbourhood, and the scenery may therefore be enjoyed in comparative seclusion. The mountain glens are very beauti¬ ful. The vales of Glencoin, Glen- ridding, and Grisedale possess some of the most interesting scenery of the Lake district. In Patterdale the botanist will find Poly podium phe- gopteris; and behind the hotel, in moist ground, Anagallis tenella, Par- nassia palustris, Drosera rotundiflora, and Sphagnum palustre. The lake should be also viewed from its E. shore, but there is no carriage- road from Pooley Bridge beyond How Town. A pedestrian taking this route to Patterdale should proceed by the steamer as far as How Town, $ and after ascending Hallin Fell, from whence is one of the finest views of the lake, and where a pillar has been erected in honour of Lord Brougham, proceed through Sandwick by a path just above the lake to Bleawick, pass¬ ing under Birk Fell and Place Fell. The scenery throughout the whole of this route is truly magnificent. The path is in some places narrow and steep, and requires wary walking. The high road is entered a little beyond Bleawick, a farmhouse ; and passing the bridge to the rt. over the Gold- rill Beck leads to Patterdale. From How Town Martindale may be visited. It is a fine valley, ex¬ tending to the base of Kidsty Pike. The forms of the hills are highly picturesque, presenting that pyrami¬ dal contour, with smooth green slopes, which characterises so many of the mountains in the Lake district. A lateral valley to the rt. leads to the Pass of Boredale, a steep and rugged ascent, impracticable except for pedestrians ; the descent on the other side by Hartsop is equally rough and precipitous. Martindale Forest still contains red deer, which are occa¬ sionally hunted by the lord of the manor. In former days the tenants were bound to assist in turning the game on the tops of the mountains towards the forest; they were to come on summons from the manor court, and if they did not appear they were fined. Lyulph’s Tower. The name is de¬ rived from Lyulphus, an Anglo-Saxon noble said to have been killed there. It is a modern ivy-clad castellated building, 3 m. from Patterdale, and 100 yds. above the lake, and is fitted up as a hunting and shooting seat. In the park the lover of nature might linger for hours. “ Here are beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, and hollies decked with honeysuckles, and fallow-deer bounding over the lawns and through the thickets: these are the attractions of the retired views, and constitute a foreground for the ever-varying pictures of the lake."’— Wordsworth. Daffodils, seen here on the shore of the lake,April 15th, 180-1, form the subject of one of his poems. One of the finest views of LTlls- water is to be had from the high grounds of Gowbarrow Park, and it would be difficult to specify any lake scenery in Europe that on the whole surpasses that of the upper reach of Ullswater. The views are somewhat stern, but are without the solemnity of Thirlmere, and the gloom of Wastwater. Ullswater, seen on a bright day with its broad expanse of water sparkling in the sun, combines, indeed, the brilliancy of Windermere with the beauty of Derwentwater. Ara Force, one of the most beau¬ tiful waterfalls of the district, is ap¬ proached by a path across Gowbarrow Park. It is a deep winding glen, and, although not so lofty as Stock Gill 138 Route 26 .—Ascent of Helvellyn. Force, at Ambleside, it surpasses it in pictorial attractions. A guide can be procured from Lyulph’s Tower. The water falls 80 feet perpendicularly through a chasm. At the top it is divided by a narrow ledge into two streams, which unite before they have fallen halfway down, and are dashed against a projecting rock, and it then becomes a gradually expand¬ ing sheet of foam. If the fall is full, a cloud of spray rises and drops into the chasm, from which it issues again a transparent stream. A cir¬ cuitous path leads to the top of the chasm. Ara Force is the scene of the tale which Wordsworth has made the subject of his beautiful poem the ‘ Somnambulist ’:—• “ List ye who pass by Lyulph’s tower At eve, how softly then Doth Ara Force, that torrent hoarse, Speak from the woody glen! Fit music for a solemn vale ! And holier seems the ground To him who catches on the gale The spirit of a mournful tale Embodied in the sound.” Ascent of Helvellyn. —Ponies and guides can be procured from either of the hotels. Helvellyn is 3118 ft. high, being 64 ft. higher than Skiddaw, and 90 ft. lower than Scafell Pike. The mass of the mountain is com¬ posed of clay-slate, occasionally ex¬ hibiting veins of syenite and por¬ phyry. The ascent and descent from the Ullswater Hotel occupy about 3 hours. The route by Glenridding has one advantage ; a pony, if led by a guide, may be ridden nearly to the top. The route is a cart-road as far as the smelting-works of the Greenside lead-mine, thence a bridle¬ path ; the track then bends south¬ wards, and the Catstycam, a high hill with a conspicuous peak, which is joined to the highest part of Helvel¬ lyn by the Swirrel Edge, comes in sight, with Red Tarn Beck flowing down the boggy ground in its front to meet the Keppel Cove Beck. A little above the junction of the becks the track divides ; one path continu¬ ing along the valley to Keppel Tarn : the Helvellyn path, turning to the rt., ascends to the crest of the ridge, passes over Little Helvellyn, crosses a col, the head of a combe above Thirlmere, sweeps round the head of Keppel Cove, and ascends to the summit. If the ascent is made by Glenridding it is recommended that the descent should be by Grisedale Tarn and Grisedale. Another and perhaps more inter¬ esting ascent is by way of Grisedale. The grand mountain mass breaks upon the view on first entering the Grisedale valley. The vale of Grise¬ dale runs up from Patterdale to the very heart of Helvellyn, and sepa¬ rates the hill to be ascended from the heights of St. Sunday’s Crag and Fairfield. There is a tolerable road for about half the distance, as far as the summit of a ridge that runs up by the N. side of Grisedale Beck, and leads to the head of the mountain. Having surmounted this ridge, there are two ways of getting to the top, —the shortest is along the ridge called Striding Edge. This ridge has accpiired a sort of celebrity in conse¬ quence of the supposed danger of passing along it; but the peril is in a great degree imaginary. The iron cross erected near the E. end of the ridge to Robert Dixon (killed here while foxhunting in Nov. 1858) has no donbt favoured this delusion. There is quite sufficient width for a firm foot¬ ing, and it is only to persons of weak nerves or unsteady heads that it can present any difficulty, and by such it certainly should not be attempted. The other way to the top is to de¬ scend a little on the other side of the ridge and take the path (by Swirrel Edge) which leaves Red Tarn on the 1. This tarn lies at a higher elevation than any of the mountain tarns, being 2356 ft, above the level of the sea. Its lonely situation under the dark 139 Houte 26 .—Ascent of Helvellyn — Glenridding. precipice of Helvellyn is very im¬ pressive. “ Thither the rainbow comes, the cloud, The mists that spread the flying shroud ; The sunbeams, and the sounding blast, Which, if it could, would hurry past, Cut that enormous barrier binds it fast.” This is the scene of the touching incident of a dog being found watch¬ ing the remains of his master— Gough, the “ pilgrim of nature ”— a young tourist who, three months previously, is supposed to have fallen over the precipice when attempting to cross Striding Edge. Wordsworth and Scott have each made the inci¬ dent the subject of a poem. A steep climb from the tarn of a few hundred feet places the tourist on top of Hel- veilyn. The summit is a smooth, grassy, or rather mossy, plain, which dips gently to the W., but with abrupt precipices to the E. There are two piles of stone distant about J m. from each other. The views on a clear day are surpassingly fine,— “A record v>f commotion, Which a thousand ridges yield ; f Eidge, and gulf, and distant Ocean Gleaming like a silver shield.” \ Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Scafell stand out conspicuously among the mountain groups. To the W. is the wildest and finest portion of the scenery of Cumberland and West¬ morland. Six of the lakes are visi¬ ble—Ullswater for almost its whole length, a considerable portion of Windermere, Esthwaite, Coniston, Bassenthwaite, and Thirlmere. Der- wentwater is hidden by Borrowdale Fells, and Crummock and Wastwater by intervening mountains. The estu¬ aries of the Kent, Leven, Duddon, and Esk, Solway Firth, the Scotch mountains, and the Northumbrian and Yorkshire hills are conspicuous. The Isle of Man is well defined on a clear day, and it is said that even the German Ocean has been occa¬ sionally faintly distinguished on the eastern horizon. On the W. side of the mountain, and between 300 and 400 yards below its summit, is a spring called Brownrigg Well, with a temperature in the height of summer rarely ex¬ ceeding 40°. A stream flows from it down the side of Helvellyn to Wyth- burn. On Helvellyn will be found a great variety of botanical treasures. In addition to the usual routes for descending Helvellyn, those fond of excitement may, if provided with alpenstocks, descend the face of the mountain towards Keppel Cove, but it is not advisable for ladies. After a few feet of smooth turf, an almost perpendicular wall of granite and debris from the mountain is reached. A sure foot and ready eye after some 300 ft. of descent will bring the cragsman over this to Keppel Cove, whence the path into Patterdale is easy and well defined. Before he quits Patterdale the tourist should explore Deepdale, lying under the precipices of Fairfield. Deepdale Beck Bridge must be crossed on the rt. of the Kirkstone road. The dale is almost treeless, and is terminated by a combe, a gloomy abyss with precipitous sides, “ a receptacle of the winter snows which are driven into it by winds from the summit of Fairfield.” The other valleys opening on the lake should be explored if not pre¬ viously visited on the way to Hel¬ vellyn. The Grisedale valley leads to the pass into Grasmere (Rte. 13), and should be ascended at least as far as Grisedale Tarn. Glenridding has been much injured in a pictur¬ esque point of view by the lead mines, which have not only impaired the beauty of this sequestered valley, but contaminated the water of the lake by the white muddy streams, im¬ pregnated with mining refuse, which they send into it. In Glencoin an artist might linger for weeks, and find innumerable tempting subjects for his pencil. 140 Monte 26 .—Patterdale to Ambleside —KirJcstone Pass. A pedestrian desirous of proceed¬ ing to Keswick from Ullswater may take the short route over the fells by Dockwray to Threlkeld, at the entrance of the Yale of St. John, striking off the high road from Lyulph’s Tower : or by another route through Glenridding, by the Sticks Pass, descending to the foot of Thirlmere, and so by the high road to Keswick (p. G7). Patterdale to Ambleside, 10 m.— The public conveyances to Amble¬ side, and to Windermere Stat. and Bowness, leave Patterdale on their return journey in the afternoon. The road, which is level for 8 m., passes through cultivated meadow r s and shady lanes, with Goldrill Beck on the 1. On the 1. is a small stream, which flows from Angle Tarn, and which is seen as a cascade on the hill-side. Lower Hartsop, 2 m., a small hamlet on the 1. From this there is a mountain path into Martindale. The descent is very rough and pre¬ cipitous, but a pony may be led down with safety. The view looking down into Martindale is very striking, but few cross this pass unless with the object of exploring the least known scenery of the Lake district. The distance from Hartsop to How Town, on Ullswater, is 5 m. Hayes Water, a considerable tarn and a favourite with anglers, is above Hartsop on the 1. It lies under the N.W. side of High Street. There is a rough road to it, chiefly used for the conveyance of peat from the fells. The stream which flows from Haves Water passes Lower Hartsop. Brothers’ Water, $ a small lake 3 m. from Patterdale, on the 1. of the road to Ambleside, possesses considerable beauty. It is fed by the streams which rise on Bed Screes, the lofty mountain mass which crowns the pass of Kirkstone on the rt. This sheet of water is seen to greater advantage by looking down upon it from the height of Kirkstone than from the road which runs by its brink. It is said to have received its name from two brothers having been drowned in it. The ancient name of the lake, however, was Broaderwater, of which its present name may be only a corruption. At the head of the lake stands Hartsop Hall, where the curious hiding-place contrived in the thickness of the wall is worth looking at. The ascent of Kirkstone Pass com¬ mences from the head of Brothers’ Water, and a more desolate track can scarcely be conceived. A good car¬ riage-road, in places, however, very steep, leads to the top of the pass. Masses of rock which have been de¬ tached by winter frosts from the heights above, seem suspended mid¬ way in their fall, and threaten at any moment to complete their descent to the bottom. Shortly before reaching the top the remarkable rock is seen on the rt., which, from its resem¬ blance at a distance to a church or a kirk, has given to the pass its name. Wordsworth’s ‘ Ode on the Kirk¬ stone Pass ’ is very descriptive of the scene:— “ Within the mind strong fancies work, A deep delight the bosom thrills, Oft as I pass along the fork Of these fraternal hills ; Where, save the rugged road, w r e find No appanage of human kind, Nor hint of man; if stone or rock Seem not his handiwork to mock By something conizably shaped; Mockery—or model roughly hewn, And left as if by earthquake strewn, Or from the flood escaped; Altars for Druid service fit (But where no fire was ever lit, Unless the glowworm to the skies Thence offer nightly sacrifice); Wrinkled Egyptian monument; Green moss-grown tower, or hoary tent; Tents of a camp that never shall be raised,— On which four thousand years have gazed! ” Uoute 27 .—Penrith to Ajjpleby, The inn at the top of the pass is 1468 feet above the level of the sea, and 977 above Patterdale, and lays false claim to be the highest in¬ habited house in England. From the inn to Ambleside, 4 in. (Rte. 3), the descent is almost continuous. The road to the 1., just beyond the inn, leads to the Troutbeck Valley, Low Wood, Windermere, and Bowness. As Ambleside is approached, the woods of Rydal Park, Loughrigg, and the pleasing scenery around the town, form a grateful contrast to the wild¬ ness and desolation of Kirkstone. This pass is more effective when taken in the opposite direction, for which, see Rte. 12. 10 m. Ambleside. ROUTE 27. PENRITH TO APPLEBY, BROUGH, KIRKBY - STEPHEN, AND KIRKBY- LONSDALE— RAIL. Skirting the woods of Lowther Castle, the Lancashire and Carlisle Rly. joins the Eden Valley line at 4 m. Clifton, said to have been so called from two remarkable cliffs above which it stands on the E. side of the Lowther, one composed of lime, the other of sandstone, 4 m. from the ch., and called Cat Scar, from the number of wild cats that formerly frequented it. Here there is an old hall, and also a stone circle, the latter being on Leacet hill in the direction of t 3| m. Cliburn Stat., a well-wooded, 141 picturesque country, with Whinfell Forest on the 1. If m. Temple Sowerby. The rly. crosses the Eden near the stat. There is a rather interesting ch. at Bolton- in-Morland, and at Buley Castle the bishops of Carlisle once had their resi¬ dence. The district is noted for its agricultural richness, and its attrac¬ tive but quiet scenery. Pleasant glimpses'of the Eden are caught from time to time on the rt. of the rly. If m. Kirkby-Thore, locally pro¬ nounced “ Fure.” Near the highway between this and Crackenthorpe (old halls at both places), to the S. of the old Roman road, are the remains of an extensive Roman camp, and at a short distance from them is a small fort or outwork called Maiden Hold —probably one of the guard-houses or watch-towers of the Maiden Way. Kirkby-Thore is said to have been so called from the former existence of a Pagan temple dedicated to the Saxon deity Thor. Long Marston Ch. may be visited from here, 6 m. Appleby, $ the county town of Westmorland, Pop. 1500, is beauti¬ fully situated on the 1. bank of the Eden, which is crossed by a hand¬ some stone bridge. The situation is low, and the hill above the town is crowned by the venerable castle half hidden amidst woods. The banks of the Eden are here richly timbered, and give a very picturesque character to the town. It is said to have been formerly of much greater extent; a place called Burrals, now 1 m. distant, being a corruption of Borough Walls. The principal object of interest is the Castle, which is approached by the principal street, built on the slope of the hill on which the castle stands. On entering the lodge gates, the grand keep, or Caesar’s Tower (80 ft. high), is seen in its lofty proportions. The castle is said by Camden to have been originally the Aballaba of the 142 Iiouls 27.—4m Romans, but apparently without suf¬ ficient authority. The Aballaba of the Notitia is probably at Papcastle, on the Roman road leading to Car¬ lisle, and in the fifth iter of Anto¬ ninus no mention is made of any station at Appleby. The first notice of the castle occurs in 1088, when William the Conqueror gave to the abbey of St. Mary’s, York, the churches of St. Lawrence and St. Michael, describing them as belong¬ ing to his castle of Appleby: there was therefore a castle at Appleby at that date, and the castles of Brough, Appleby, Pendragon, and Brougham, are believed to have all been built by Randulph de Meschines, to whom William granted a considerable tract in Westmorland. The keep is tra¬ ditionally called Caesar’s Tower, but why this tower, evidently of Norman origin and Norman workmanship, should have obtained that designa¬ tion, it is difficult to understand. The workmanship of the walls is not, hoAvever, of that excellence which generally characterises castles of the Norman period. The wall that now divides the square of the keep into two compartments, was built by the Countess of Pembroke in 1051, and at one time there was a brass plate in the wall, recording that fact, toge¬ ther with the general repair of the castle, by Anne, Baroness Clifford, after it had lain ruinous and un¬ covered from the year 1559. The lowest chamber in Ceesar’s Tower was formerly used as the county prison. The fortress is surrounded with a double moat: the inner and deeper one is now laid out in shrubbery walks. The mansion contains some pictures of historical interest. The portraits include one of the cele¬ brated Countess of Pembroke, and several of the Clifford, Bedford, and Thanet families. A large picture of •George Earl of Cumberland and his wife hangs in the hall, and any one desirous of seeing it would be readily admitted for the purpose. In the uieby: Uistorij. rebellion of 1641 Lady Anne Clifford strongly garrisoned the castle for the King, and gave the command of it to Sir Philip Musgrave, who held it until after the battle of Marston Moor. It was again held by the Royalists for a short time in 1648. It was one of the principal resi¬ dences of Anne, Dowager Countess of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, whose memory is still held in vener¬ ation throughout the North of Eng¬ land. She was the daughter of George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, who distinguished himself in several naval engagements. She first mar¬ ried Lord Buckhurst, afterwards Earl of Dorset, and, on his death, Philip Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery. She inherited the vast estates of the Clifford family, and, retiring to the North of England after the death of her second husband, spent the re¬ mainder of her life in the country residing in her numerous castles by turns. All suffered more or less during the civil war, but her fortune was so considerable that she was able to repair and refurnish them all; and over the gate of each she placed an inscription : “ This castle was re¬ paired by the Lady Ann Clifford, Countess Dowager of Pembroke, after the main part of it had lain ruinous ever since 1648, when it was demolished almost to the ground by the Parliament then sitting at West¬ minster, because it had been a gar¬ rison in the civil war. Laus Deo.” Her friends tried to persuade her that her work would be in vain, for that as fast as she rebuilt her castles Cromwell would demolish them; to which she replied, “ While he leaves me a shilling, I will rebuild what he throws down the next day.” This speech having been reported to Crom¬ well, he is said to have replied, “Nay, let her build as she will; she shall have no hindrance from me.” Appleby has always been distin¬ guished for its loyalty. On the coro¬ nation of Charles II., “ there were lioulc 27 .— War cop - as many bonfires in the town as houses, and a stately scaffold was erected, hung with cloth of arras and gold, whither, after divine service, the Countess of Pembroke, with the mayor, aldermen, and all the other gentry of the county, ascended to the music of trumpets, with a crown of gold carried before them, when they pray¬ ed for, and drank to, the health of the king on their knees.’’ The family of Clifford became extinct on the death of the Countess of Pembroke, and, her daughter and sole heiress having married the Earl of Thanet, the Clifford estates passed into the possession of the Tufton family. The Church, which has been re¬ stored, is in the Perp. style of the 14th centy., with clustered columns. In the chancel is an ancient piscina. The only remarkable objects are the fiue altar-tombs of the Countess of Pembroke, who died at Brougham Castle 1675, and Margaret, Dowager Countess of Cumberland, her mother, both recumbent effigies in marble. The epitaph on the Countess of Cum¬ berland was probably written by her daughter. In the ch.-yard is a tombstone re¬ cording the deaths of a grandfather, father, and son ; the first 100, the second 86, and the third 101 years of age. 44 m. Warcop Stat. The rly. pursues the course of the Eden, of which there are several pleasing views. It crosses it at 2 m. Great Musgrove, by a viaduct, The little ch. of Musgrove is seen on the 1., with a pretty view up the Eden. [Brough (pronounced Bruff), 2 m. from Musgrove Stat. (1300.) The great Westmorland horse and cattle fair is held on the 30th of September and the 1st of October, on a hill 2 m. from the town. The town is plea- -Brougli: the Castle. 143 santly situated under the Hellbeck Fells. The Hellbeck, a tributary of the Eden, runs through the town, and the Swindale forms a junction with it a little below. Many Roman coins have been found in the neighbour¬ hood. The place has been identified as the Roman station Yeterrae. The Castle, 1 m. from the town, is a grand ruin ; the walls of the great keep are almost perfect. The re¬ mains of this once important fortress stand on a hill with very steep banks. On one side it was protected by the river, and on the other by a deep moat. The castle was partially destroyed by fire in 1521, but was repaired in 1660 by the Countess of Pembroke, who made it her occasional residence. It was partially pulled down by Thomas Earl of Thanet in 1695, who used the materials for the repairs of the castle of Appleby. The walls of the great square tower, called Ctesar’s Tower, remained per¬ fect until 1792, when the lower part of the S.E. corner gave way, and left the upper part with no other support than the cement of the parallel wall. About the same time an urn con¬ taining a large quantity of Roman silver coins was found while digging the foundations of a house in the vicinity of the castle. The ruin has suffered on the whole less from time than from that Vandal indifference to the past which has, in so many instances, led to the destruction of buildings of great historical interest to provide materials for modern erec¬ tions. The masonry of the round tower at the S.E. angle is apparently more recent than that of other por¬ tions of the building. The square tower has some herring-bone work in its walls. The position of the castle is commanding, and it must have been a place of great strength. The view from the walls will repay a visit. Twelfth-night, or Holly-Night, was 144 Route 27 ,—Brough : formerly celebrated at Brough by carrying through the town a holly- tree with torches attached to its branches. The procession set out at 8 o’clock preceded by music, and stopped and cheered at the bridge, and again at the cross. The proces¬ sion then divided into two parties, one of which endeavoured to take the tree to one of the inns, and the other to a rival one. The innkeeper whose party triumphed was expected to treat his partisans liberally. The Ch. is late Perp., with a square embattled W. tower erected 1513. There is a stone pulpit bearing the date 1621, and some of the windows are decorated with ancient stained glass. The S. door is Norm., having probably belonged to an older ch.; the carved oak pews are curious and of great antiquity. There are some well-sculptured tombs in the ch.- yd., particularly one belonging to the family of Walton of Hellbeck. During the repairs to the ch. a stone was found with an inscription, which was interpreted by Prof. Stephens as Runic; but it has since been shown to be something much rarer, viz. a Greek inscription in hexameters, recording the death at 16 of Hermes of Commagene. About half-a-dozen others have been found in all Eng¬ land. On another stone in the ch. is a Roman inscription. 1 m. from Brough, Hellbeck Hall, a plain residence built on the side of the Fell. On one of the projecting rocks of Hellbeck Fell is a tower called the Fox Tower, the view from which is very extensive. Hellbeck is probably a compound signifying “ covered beck.” The name is fre¬ quent here, and in Yorkshire, and always applies to streams of that character. 5 m. E. from Brough, on the old turnpike-road from London to Glas¬ gow, and near the top of Stainmoor, Church—Roy Cross. are the remains of a Roman camp, and a fragment of a cross called Rear Cross, or Roy Cross, which is said to have marked the boundary be¬ tween Scotland and England when William the Conqueror ceded Cum¬ berland to the Scottish Crown, on condition that no further aggressions should be made upon the English frontier. The road over Stainmoor was long the only practicable route into Cumberland, which accounts for the number of fortresses that were erected in the vicinity. A stage coach was first placed on this road in 1774. Stainmoor was long notorious for Border frays, and is referred to by Sir W. Scott in his ballad of ‘ Allan a Dale ’:— “ Allan a Dale was ne’er belted a knight, Though his spur be as sharp, and his blade be as bright; Allan a Dale is no baron or lord, Yet twenty tall yeomen will draw at his word; And the best of our nobles his bonnet will veil, Who at Rear Cross on Stainmoor meets Allan a Dale.” Holinshed gives the following ac¬ count of Rear Cross. Its position, and the care taken to protect it, seem to indicate that it was a land¬ mark of importance:— “ At length a peace was concluded betwixt the two kings under these conditions, that Malcolme should enjoy that part of Northumberland which lieth betwixt Tweed, Cumber¬ land, and Stainmore, and doo homage to the Kinge of England for the same. In the midst of Stainmore there shall be a crosse set up, with the Kinge of England’s image on the one side, and the Kinge of Scotland’s on the other, to signifie that one is to march to England, and the other to Scotland. This crosse was called the Roi-crosse, that is, the cross of the kinge.” Near Brough are some interesting geological features. A fault is dis- 145 Route 27 .— -Kirkby-Stephen—Wharton Hall. played on a scale said to be unrivalled in any other part of England. “ Near the town is a steep craggy mountain ridge ranging parallel to the principal escarpment, from which it is separated by a ravine several hundred feet in depth. On entering this line we find ourselves in the line of an an¬ cient convulsion by which the whole craggy ridge has been torn from the escarpment, and tumbled over into the valley, in which it now stands on edge, every part of it being inclined at a very considerable angle. It is of great thickness, and probably in¬ cludes nearly the whole calcareous system of Cross Fell; but its upper beds are buried under the alluvium of the new red sandstone.”—‘ Transac¬ tions B. G. Society .’ Kirkby-Stephen, $ 3J m. from Mus- grove Stat. (Pop. 1500.) The town is situated on the 1. bank of the Eden. The trout-fishing in this part of the river is excellent. There are a few copper and lead mines in the neighbourhood. The town is sur¬ rounded by lofty hills, of which Wild- boar Fell, the giant of the group, with its bold escarpment, stands out like a great headland over the country. The Ch., dedicated to St. Stephen, was restored in 1818. The tower was rebuilt in 1753. There are several handsome memorial windows. On the N. side is the Wharton Chapel, which has also been restored and decorated; it contains a tomb in Caen stone of Thomas, first Earl of Wharton, and his two wives. In the S. aisle is the Musgrave chapel, containing a tomb of the 11th centy., with a recumbent figure supposed to be a Sir George Mus¬ grave ; in this chapel is a small piscina. The ch., although deformed by hideous galleries, has some inter¬ esting features ; but the nave has been most injudiciously shortened by cutting off from it, by means of a * [English Lakes.'] screen, two of its pillars. In the chancel are a decorated piscina and some sedilia. The Wharton pew is embellished with curious oak carv¬ ings, and in the belfry is the huge wooden clock of the most primitive construction, made in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. One of the doors of the ch. is riddled with shot fired by Cromwell’s troopers. To the E. and 1 m. from the town are the remains of Hartley Castle, in a fine situation overlooking the town. It was one of the residences of the Musgrave family, but is now a farmhouse, the principal part of the building having been pulled down to supply materials for the repairs of Eden Hall, the present seat of the family. 2 m. S. Wharton Hall, the patri¬ monial seat of Philip Duke of Whar¬ ton, the accomplished and profligate nobleman whose character has been so finely drawn by Pope. A con¬ siderable portion of the old mansion is still standing ; one part of it has been converted into a farmhouse, and another has been fitted up by the Earl of Lonsdale, to whom the hall now belongs, in a plain style as a shooting seat. The quadrangle is entered by a gateway over which are the Wharton arms with the date 1539; the tower is much dilapidated, but the top may be reached by a wind¬ ing-staircase, the stones of which are much worn ; the warder’s room is on the rt. After passing through the gate¬ way, the principal remains are seen to consist of the chapel, the great hall now used as a kitchen, and some out¬ houses. The once extensive park, traversed by the Eden, has been divided into farms. The village of Wharton, which once existed near the hill, was pulled down, and its inhabitants removed to Wharton Dykes. The Wharton family was of great antiquity in Westmorland, and was L 14G Route 27 .—Lammerside Castle—Ravenstone Bale. known in this place in the time of Edward I. The first title of nobility was conferred by Henry VIII. on Sir Thomas Wharton for his defeat of the Scots at Solway Moss (Rte. 24). The most celebrated of the family was Philip Duke of Wharton, the only son of Thomas Marquis of Wharton, who was horn in 1698. In consequence of his great talents he was raised, while still a minor, to the highest rank in the peerage. He was “ a man of unbounded genius, eloquence, and ambition,” but his career was one of shameless profli¬ gacy, both public and private; and he was successively a Tory, a Jacob¬ ite, and a traitor. He served against his country as a colonel in the Spanish army during the siege of Gibraltar in 1727, and died in extreme poverty in a Spanish convent in 1731 at the age of 32. There were persons living at Kirkby-Stephen in 1771, who remembered the general profligacy of the Duke’s manners. | m. S. of Wharton Hall are the remains of Lammerside Castle in a fine situation; the remains are very slight, and consist only of fragments of walls, and part of a tower, with the dungeon. The plan of the original edifice can scarcely be traced. Pendragon Castle, 3 m. from Whar¬ ton Hall, according to tradition, was built in the time of Vortigern by Uter Pendragon, a mythical person¬ age said to have been a Welsh prince, and a companion of King Arthur, and who in order better to protect his castle, endeavoured to divert the course of the river so as to make it encircle the walls, an attempt which gave rise to the provincial saying— “ Let Uter Pendragon do what he can, Eden will run where Eden ran.” The castle was also called Mailer - slang, from the neighbouring forest of that name. It was one of the castles of Anne Countesse of Pembroke, and was repaired by her. Over the castle gate was an inscription, now effaced : “ This Pendragon Castle was re- payered by the Lady Anne Clifford, Countesse - Dowager of Pembroke, Dorsett, and Montgomerie, Baroness Clifford, Westmorland, and Vescie, High Sheriffesse, by inheritance, of the County of Westmorland, and Lady of Honour of Skipton in Craven, in the year 1661; so as she came to lye in it herself for a little while in October, 1631, after it had layen ruinous without timber or any cover¬ ing ever since the year 1541.” The castle was burned to the ground by the Scots in the reign of Edward III. It was rebuilt, and became one of the seats of the Clifford family. One of the flanking towers is still toler¬ ably perfect. The situation is fine on a mound above the Eden, which flows under the walls; on the other side it was protected by a deep moat. The castle was dismantled by Thomas Earl of Thanet in 1685. Wildboar Pell, 3 m. to the S. of Pendragon Castle, on the N. slope of Ravenstone Dale Fell, is the source of the Lune, and a little to the E. are the head-springs of the Eden. Ravenstone Rale is a wildly pic¬ turesque and very secluded district, having only a few rude cottages and plain homesteads to disturb the feel¬ ing of almost complete solitude. The manor was the property of the Priory of Walton, in Yorkshire, and besides being exempted from taxation it had a privilege of sanctuary, and no sheriff or king’s officer could enter it to apprehend criminals. All offenders were tried before the steward of the manor, by a jury of the tenants. If a murderer fled to the ch. and touched the “ holy bell,” he was free ; and if a stranger came within the precincts of the manor he was safe from fur¬ ther pursuit. In 1645, says a local chronicler, a murderer lived and died 147 Route 27.— Newbiggin — Kirhby-Lonsdale. in Ravenstone Dale, whose posterity continued there for 2 generations, and then became extinct. A place in a part of the parish is still called Gallows Hill. On the South Darlington line of rly., between Kirkby-Stephen and the Barras Stat., is the Belah iron viaduct, 1000 ft. in length, 200 ft. in height. The neighbourhood of Kirkby- Stephen possesses some interesting geological features. Where the red sandstone first appears in the ramifi¬ cations of the Eden it is chiefly seen as a conglomerate abounding in frag¬ ments of mountain limestone. From the different degrees of induration in the composition of this conglomerate, the parts where sand and cementing matter are largely present are soft and crumbling; hence it offers a very unequal resistance to the action of water, and above Kirkby-Stephen, where the Eden makes its passage through it, it has been worn into channels of singular complexity. Chasms and deep basins have been scooped out where the rock offered the least resistance ; and by reason of these iuequalities eddies are formed in the river during floods, and which, whirling round the hard pebbles at the bottom, gradually grind away the solid rock. Caverns are thus formed, and the masses of conglo¬ merate become so much undermined as often to afford a new passage for the river below its former level. An example of this occurs at Stenkreth Bridge, 1 m. from Kirkby-Stephen, where the water, after passing over the inclined strata of mountain lime¬ stone below Pendragon Castle, plunges into the horizontal masses of conglo¬ merate ; after which it is heard roar¬ ing in a subterranean channel com¬ municating, by a narrow cleft called the Span of the Eden (which can be crossed by a single step, and which, it is said, could once be measured with the hand, but the rock was broken to prevent the winning of a J bet), with what appears to have been the ancient bed of the river. The largest of these chasms is just above Stenkreth Bridge, and is called Coop Kernal Hole. Some of these holes being above the present bank of the river have been thought to have some relation to Druidism, but they are the effects of purely natural causes. From Kirkby-Stephen to Kirkby - Lonsdale it is necessary to take the Ingleton Branch of the Eden Valley Rly. as far as Tebay Junct., whence a line runs direct to Kirkby-Lonsdale. GJ m. Newbiggin Stat. 3J m. the country is pleasingly varied by fine wooded hills. 13£ m. Tebay Stat. The line here branches off to Kirkby - Lonsdale 18 m. 17J m. Low Gill Stat. The rly. crosses the Lime by a viaduct of 12 arches, and follows the direction of the valley to Kirkby-Lonsdale. 21J m. Sedbergh Stat., in York¬ shire ; the town is about 1 m. to the 1. of the stat. 24| m. Middleton Stat. 28 m. Barbon Stat. The country is here hilly and well-wooded. J 31 m. KI RK B Y-L ONS BAL E.$ Pop. 1733 (1881, slightly less than in 1871). The town is 2 m. from the rly. stat.: omnibus from the station. The town is very beautifully situated on the rt. bank of the Lune or Lon, and derives it name from the vale in which it lies, i.e. the Kirk- town of Lonsdale. The views, ter¬ minated by the lofty Fells on one side and the mountain of Inglebo- rough on the other, are exceedingly fine. A happier combination of river, meadow, and wood, than that which is seen from the churchyard, can scarcely be imagined. The fine bridge which spans the Lune, J m. below the town, has 3 ribbed arches, the two largest with a span of 55 ft. each, and the lesser of 28 ft. The parapet is 52 ft. above the ordinary 148 Route 27Kirkby-Lonsdale: Church—Underlay Hall. level of the river. The views on each side are charming, the Lime foaming over its rocky bed, under banks richly clothed with wood. Nothing can surpass the beauty of the scenery of the valley of the Lime, between Kirkby-Lonsdale and Hornby, a dis¬ tance of 6 m. by road which skirts the river. The market-place, in front of the Royal Hotel, was built in 1822, from the designs of a Westmorland archi¬ tect. The only object of interest in the town is The Church, dedicated to St. Mary. The arch under the tower, and several of the piers, are Norm. It has suffered much from modern “ improvements.” The tower was re¬ stored in 1705, and at a later period, the whole edifice being in need of repair, its Tudor roof, battlements, pinnacles, and clerestory, were re¬ moved, and a sloping roof of blue slate was substituted. The stalls were at the same time pulled down, and the pillars and capitals covered with plaster and whitewashed. The improvements have since been more judiciously conducted ; the pillars have been cleared of their plaster coatings, the arches rechiselled, and the capitals restored ; many of these are very fine, consisting of various symbolical figures and of clusters of flowers. The pillars are scored with deep transverse grooves, and al¬ together the ch. has a very imposing effect. The W. doorway is a fine specimen of Norm., being deeply moulded, with clustered pillars with decorated capitals. The S. doorway is also Norm., and a good specimen of zigzag or chevron moulding. The W. portion of the ch. is the oldest. In one of the pillars, near the chancel, is a decorated piscina. Above the communion-table is a beautiful lancet window with 3 lights, a good speci¬ men of E. Eng., with slender project¬ ing columns connected by slight bands of stone. The rich stained glass in this window was the gift of Richard Atkinson, Esq. The other stained glass windows are chiefly memorial. The oak pulpit bears the date 1612. No ch. in Westmorland so well deserves the attention of archaeologists. A really judicious re¬ storation was undertaken in 1867-8, under the care of Mr. Paley, of Lan¬ caster, at the expense of Lord Bective, then Lord Kenlis of Underley. TJnderley Hall (Lord Bective), 1 m. from the town. The mansion is modern, in the Elizabethan style, and was built in the beginning of the present century. It is situated in a well-timbered park, and sheltered on all sides by wooded hills. The Lune sweeps past the ground in a grace¬ ful curve, and its finely wooded banks are seen from them to great advant¬ age. The walk to Underley Hall from the ch.-yard, through the park, is delightful. The mansion contains a few pictures, but none of remark¬ able merit. The chief attractions are the grounds and the river scenery. Near Kirkby-Lonsdale is Casterton Hall, celebrated for the admirable institution founded there by the bene¬ volence of the late Rev. W. Carus- Wilson for the daughters of clergy¬ men, of whom upwards of 100 are fed, clothed, and educated at Caster- ton for about 18 1. a year each. The instruction includes music, French, and drawing. Charlotte Bronte was one of the pupils, and severely satirized the institution and its founder in ‘ Jane Eyre.’ The Rev. W. Carus- Wilson was born in 1792, and was the eldest son of W. W. Carus- Wilson, M.P. for Cockermouth. He died in 1860, and his remains are interred in the family vault at Cas¬ terton. [The remarkable limestone caverns in the neighbourhood of Kirkby- Lonsdale are well worth visiting. They occur in the great Scar lime¬ stone formation, the term scar mean¬ ing, in the dialect of the N. of England, a bare precipice on the face 149 Routt 27 .— Easgill—Yordas Cave. of a mountain. The grey scars near the base of Ingleborough, of Peny- ghent, Whernside, on the borders of Westmorland, the mural precipices above Giggleswick and Malham, and the magnificent gorge of Gordale, belong to this formation. These rocks are full of fissures and clefts, often of unknown depth, in which moun¬ tain torrents are engulfed, and which, after running for considerable dis¬ tances in subterranean channels, emerge again in the neighbouring valleys. Many of the caverns are of considerable extent, and are open to the surface; others can only be ap¬ proached by narrow horizontal en¬ trances. In some of these subterra¬ nean recesses are waterfalls of no common grandeur; in others, the waters are not seen, but only heard roaring through vaulted and inacces¬ sible chambers. As a general rule, these caverns possess perpendicular walls and nearly flat roofs. They have been formed by the erosion of the carbonic acid held in solution by the streams flowing through them, but they may owe their origin to violent dislocations of the strata at some remote geological epoch. The most interesting of these caverns is Easgill, a ravine between Leek and Casterton Fells, 3 m. from Kirk- by-Lonsdale. The most direct route is over Casterton Fell; there is, how¬ ever, a carriage-road by Cowen. The limestone here assumes highly fan¬ tastic shapes and is full of small ■winding caverns partly laid open by the fall of the roofs. The first cavern after the entrance of the Gill is called the Witch Holes. It is easy of access, and runs far into the mountain. To the rt. of the en¬ trance is a singular formation called the Witches’ Staircase, leading to a vaulted chamber, the roof and walls of which are encrusted with stalac* tites and crystals. Easgill Kirk is a still more remark-’ ab’e cavern, the floor of which is the [English Lakes.] bed of a river, and comprises an area of 200 square yards, enclosed by per¬ pendicular walls from 100 to 200 ft. high. After heavy rain there is a fine waterfall in this cavern. There is a smaller recess called the Choir, which is entered by a natural arch¬ way. In this chamber is a stalactite of curious form, called the Priest of Easgill. The Fells in the neighbourhood of Easgill abound in other chasms of unknown depth, to which no access has been discovered. After visiting Easgill and its caverns, the tourist should proceed to— The Cave of Yordas, one of the most extraordinary of these singular formations. Permission is readily obtained on application by letter to Mr. Whittingdale, of Westhouse. Bentham. Cross the mountain called Gregareth, and, descending on its opposite side into a small rocky ravine, the stream is seen, which, falling in a succession of small cascades, is suddenly lost in a large fissure. At the foot of the ravine is the entrance to Yordas Cave, by a natural archway. Lights (pro¬ vided by a guide) are necessary in order to see the natural curiosities of this singular chamber. A stream rushes through it, and the roaring of water is at times very impressive. The cavern is 1000 ft. in length, 48 ft. in breadth, and from 30 to 40 ft. high. The walls are covered with incrustations and stalactites, and many fanciful resemblances are dis¬ covered in them to escutcheons, armour, &c. An inner cavern is called the Chapter-house, a circular recess, the roof of which looks as if it were supported by slender clustered co¬ lumns. There is a cascade at one end of this inner cavern, with an inclined fall of 50 ft, There are other places besides Kirkby-Lonsdale, where cavities in the Scar limestone occur. On the m 150 Moute 27 .— Whernside—Malhcim Cove. W. side of Penyghent (most easily Visited from Settle by taking the train to Horton) there are two tine speci¬ mens. Hull Pot is a roofless cavern with perpendicular walls, from which may be heard the roaring of sub¬ terranean waters. Huge moss-grown blocks lie at the far end. Hunt Pot is an open crevice of unknown but great depth, as is proved by the long-continued rumbling noise on stones being thrown into it. At the base of Whernside, a moun¬ tain a little above Ingleton, are many fissures and caverns, in one of which Weathercote Cave, in Chapel-le-Dale, is a waterfall of no common beauty, The entrance is by an opening in the S.E. side, and the cave is reached by a flight of rude steps under an arched roof. The walls of the cavern rise in a black mass full 120 ft. per¬ pendicularly ; trees and shrubs, the branches of which meet above, add to the impressiveness of the scene. The cascade falls on a flat natural pave¬ ment at the bottom of the cave, with an overpowering noise. Westall and Turner have each illustrated this, the most picturesque of all the Yorkshire caves. Gatekirk Cave, 1J m. N. of Wea¬ thercote. The river Greta runs through it. Stalactites and stalag¬ mites occur here in the greatest pro¬ fusion. The roof is covered with grotesque forms in stone ; “ the ledge of the W. side is like an image-maker’s shop.” i- There are several other natural curiosities near Kirkby-Lonsdale, to see which, however, it is necessary to proceed beyond Ingleton, but they form portions of the group of interest¬ ing objects which may be easily visited from this town. li m. from the Clapham Stat, on the Settle road, is Ingleborough Cave, which is approached through the grounds belonging to the man¬ sion-house of Ingleborough. The entrance is protected by an iron grat¬ ing, and is kept locked, but a guide resides near the spot. It is divided into two recesses, one 200 feet long, with a low roof,—the old cave; the other,—the new cave, which was dis¬ covered in 1838, an artificial outlet having been made for the imprisoned waters. This cavern is 2100 ft. long, and consists of a series of chambers, with stalagmites and sta¬ lactites in great profusion. A stream flows through it, and a pathway has been formed along its side. 1 m. from Settle, by the side of the road, is the “ Ebbing and Flowing Well” of Giggleswick, a curious hydraulic phenomenon connected with the passage of the waters through the Scar limestone. lj N.E. of the town is the cele¬ brated Victoria Cave, where rich geological and archeological finds have been made. The relics may be seen in the museum of Giggleswick Grammar School. 4 m. to the E. of the town of Settle is the magnificent gorge of Gordale. It is a gloomy ravine strewn with vast rocks and boulders. The sides are upwards of 240 ft. high. Derby¬ shire scarcely contains anything more picturesque. Near it is the equally celebrated Malham Cove, where the great Craven Fault, as it is termed by geologists, forms a fine precipice, 285 ft. high. The river Aire rushes copiously forth at its base. Travellers to the S. by the Midland main line may easily see these two curiosities by alighting at Bell Busk Stat. For a full descrip¬ tion of these and other curiosities of the Craven District, see Handbook for Yorkshire , Kte. 32. ( 151 ) INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 1898. - + A Aballaba, xxi., 93, 142. Abbey, junct. 125. Agriculture , xxxi. ALDINGHAM, 13. ALLONBY, 121. (Stat., Aspatria , 4 m.) Inn: Ship. Alio, xxi. ALSTON, 134. Inn: 2 or 3 tolerable, none first-rate. AMBLESIDE, 41. Inns : Salutation ; Brown's Queen's Hotel; White Lion; Vale View Hotel and Boarding- House ; Waterhead Hotel . Banks : Wakefield, Crewdson ty Co .; Lan¬ caster Banking Co.; Bank of Westmorland. Distances: Winder- mere Stat. 5 m.; Head of Windermere, 1 m.; Keswick, 17 m.; Patter- dale (Oilswater), 10 m.; Bowness, 6 m.; Kendal, 13 m.; Coniston, 9 m.; Hawkshead, 5 m. Conveyances: A Coach daily to Coniston, 9 m., and coaches 4 times a day to Windermere and [English Lakes —i. 98 .] Keswick. Daily coach to Patterdale. The round of the 2 Langdales every morning. Steamers from Waterhead about' six times a day to Low-Wood Inn, Bowness and Lake¬ side. Omnibuses fre¬ quently to Waterhead and Gi*asmere. Ambleside to Coniston by Hawkshead, 46. Ambleside to Coniston and the Valley of the Duddon, 48. Ambleside to Keswick, by Stake Pass, 68; by Grasmere, 61. Ambleside to Great and Little Langdales, 54. Ambleside to Patter- dale, 59. Amboglana, 133. Angle fell, 89. ANGLE TARN, 56. Antiquities , xxv. APPLEBY, stat. on Mid¬ land main line 1 m. from stat. on N. E. Rly. to Penrith and Darlington ; 6 trains daily, 99, 141. Inns : King's Head; Tufton Anns. Banks I Cumberland Union; Carlisle and Cumberland. Applethwaite, 70. ARA FORCE, 137. Arbeia, 122. ARMATHWAITE, 122. Inn : Bed Lion, near the bridge. Armboth Hall, 67. ARNSIDE, stat., 6 (Fur¬ ness Rly.). Inns : Albion; Crown. Arthuret Church, 126. Arthur’s Round TABLE, 135. Ashness Bridge, 58. Askerton Castle, 134. ASKHAM, 105. Inns: Punch Bowl; Queen's. ASPATRIA, stat. on Maryport and Carlisle Rly., 122. Inns : Grapes; Sta¬ tion Hotel . Banks : Cumberland Union; Bank of White¬ haven. Axelodunum , 124. B BAMPTON, 44. BARBON, stat., 147 (rail to Ingleton). BARDSEA, 13. Inn : Braddyll's Arms, inferior, with poor ac¬ commodation. Conishead Priory Hydropathic, be¬ tween Bardsea andUlver- N 152 INDEX AND DIRECTORY ston, beautifully situated and comfortable. Barn Gates, 48. Inn. BARNSCAR, 29 (ancient city). Barnspike crags, 131. BARROW, 18. Stat. Fur¬ ness Kly. Inns: Imperial; Duke of Edinburgh ; VI aver ley Temperance Hotel , com¬ fortable and well man¬ aged. Banks : Wakefield , Crewdson fy Co.; Lan¬ caster Banking Co.; Cum¬ berland Union. Industries : Ship¬ building, on a large scale ; Iron and Steel Works; Jute Mills. Steamers : to Belfast, Isle of Man, and else¬ where. Barrow (Sir John), 10. Barrow Falls, 73. BassenthwaiteLake, 79. BASSENTHWAITE, stat., 79. Rail to Cockermouth and Keswick. Pheasant Inn. BECKERMET, stat., 24. BEETHAM, village, 32. BELLE ISLE, 39. BELL BUSK, stat., 99. BEWCASTLE, 134. BIGGAR BANK, 19. BIRKER FORCE, 29. BISCAY HOW, 39. Black Combe, mountain, Ascent from Broughton or Silecroft. Fine view, 22 . BLACK SAIL PASS, 86, 118. BLAKE FELL, 88. Blake Holm, 40. BLEA TARN, 56. Blelham Tarn, 47. BLENCATHARA, 81. BLENCOW, stat., 107. BOLTON CH., 122. BOOT, 28. Rail to Raven- glass, 7 m. Inns : King of Prussia, at junction of roads to Eskdale Green and Birk- by ; Mason’s Arms, 200 yards from stat. ; Wool- pack, 1 m. up the val¬ ley ; Beckfoot Temper¬ ance Hotel is | m. distant from Boot. All small. BOOTLE, stat., 23. B0RR0WDALE, 74. Inns: Lodore; Borrow- dale; both excellent. (See also Rosthwaite.) Omnibus to Keswick, 6d. BORROWBRIDGE, 90. BOWDER STONE, 75. BOWFELL, 56. Asc. from Dungeon Gill, 56; also from Boot. B0WNESS, 38. Inns: Old England; Royal; Crown; Bels- field ; Hydropathic ; Stores Hall Hotel (2 m. from Bowness, steamers stop, lately residence of Rev. T. Staniforth). House and Lodging Agents : Mr. Saul, Mr. Holland, Mr. Nicholson. Banks *. Wakefield, Crewdson & Co. ; Bank of Westmorland. Steamers up and down Windermere. Ferry across the Lake. Coaches every morn¬ ing to Coniston; t) U 11s- water ; omnibuses ( 6d .) to Windermere Stat. m. Bowness or Ambles-ide to Coniston, 46. Windermere Golf Links, 1 m. from Bow¬ ness. BOWSCALE TARN, 81, 109. BRAITHWAITE, stat., 110 . BRAMPTON, 132. Inn: Howard Arms. brathay Church, 55. BRAYSTONES, stat., 25 ? brayton Hall, 122. Bremetoniacum, xxi. Bridal of Triermain, 80. BRIDEKIRK, village, 111. BRIGHAM, junct., 112. BROTHERS’ WATER, 140. Inn. BROUGHAM HALL, 105; Castle, 104; Ch. 105. BROUGH, 143. Inn: Castle. BROUGHTON, 31. Rail to Coniston and to Fur¬ ness Rly. Inns: Old King’s Head, unpretending, but com¬ fortable (the best, but old-fashioned). BULEY CASTLE, 141. BULL GILL, junct., 121. BURDOSWALD, 133. BURGH, stat., 124. BURGH-ON-SANDS, 124. BURNMOOR TARN, 28. Burns (Robert), 133. Butler (Hon. L.), 119. BUTTERLIP HOW, 64. BUTTERMERE, 85. Inns : Victoria; Fish ; both are now in the same hands, and offer verv fair accommodation. Butter- mere (new). C CAER MOTE, 122. CALDBECK, 109. INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 153 CALDER BRIDGE, 114. Inns : Stanley Arms; Golden Fleece, only a public house. For detailed particulars re¬ garding Calder Abbey, refer to the Rev. A. C. Loftie’s 1 Guide to Calder Abbey.' CALTHWAITE, stat., 94- CAM SPOUT, 28. CARK, stat., 10. CARLISLE, 94. Cathedral, 95. Castle, 98. Infirmary, 98. Inns : County Hotel (close to the rly. stat.), very good ; Great Cen¬ tral (near the A r iaduct) ; Viaduct (temperance), good and reasonable; Bush ; Crown and Mitre (commercial), near the market-place. Banks : Cumberland Union; Carlisle and Cumberland ; Carlisle City and District; Clydesdale. Manufactories : Bis¬ cuits, Carr & Co.; Hats, Carrick & Co.; Orna¬ mental Printing, Hudson Scott. Population, 2000 in 1685, 4158 in 1763, 10,000 in 1801, and 35,866 in 1881. Bookseller: Thurnam, English Street. Distances : 10 m. from the Scottish Border, 301 m. from London, 101 m. from Glasgow, 93 m. from Edinburgh, 18 m. from Penrith. The Rly. Stat. is spacious and al¬ most metropolitan in its character, and is one of the most important in the N. of England; 10 trains daily to Glasgow, and 9 for Edinburgh. To Silloth, 124. To Gillsldnd , 127. CARNFORTH, stat., 6. Inn: Carnforth. Carrock FELL, 109. CARTMEL, 7. Casterton Hall, 148. Castlebrow Hill, 36. Castle Crag, 75. Castlefield, 90. Castlerigg, 68, 70. Castle sowerby, 109. CASTLESTEADS, 93. Cat Bells, 70. CAVES OF YORKSHIRE, 150. CATSTYCAM, 138. Chapel Island, 10. Circles , 22, 23, 28, 80, 90, 91, 107, 109, 129, 135, 141. CLAPHAM, 99. Inn: Flying Horse¬ shoes (good); New Inn. CLIBURN, stat., 141. Clifton, stat., 92, 141. Climate, xiv. Coalfield, xv. C0CKERM0UTH, stat., 110 . Inns: Globe (good); Apple-tree ; Sun; Tem¬ perance Hotel. Banks: Cumberland Union ; Carlisle and Cumberland', Carlisle City and District. Manufactory: Linen Tnrcad, Harris & Co. C0CKLEY BECK, 52, 54. CODALE TARN, 62. COLEDALE PAIR, 85. Coleridge ( Hartley ), 44, 62. COLWITH FORCE, 31, 48, 57. Communications, xxxii. Concavata, xxi., 132. CONISHEAD PRIORY, 13. Hotel : Conisbead Priory (Hydropathic), beautifully situated and comfortable. CONISTON, 48. Inns: Waterhead Hotel , near the steam¬ boat pier; Lake-Bank Hotel, at foot of lake; both excellent. Crown, in town, also good. Conveyances : Coach to Bowness every after¬ noon ; to Ambleside 3 times a day. Steam Gondola on the lake. Coniston to Wasdale Head, 53. To Dungeon Gill, 63. CONISTON OLD Man, 32, asct. from Torver, 32, from Coniston, 49. Coniston water, 48. Copstone, 135. Corby Castle, 127. CR0STHWAITE, church, 69. CRUMM0CK WATER, 84. Inn: Scale Hill (see also Buttermere). CURTHWAITE, stat., 123. Cuthbert, St., 71. D DACRE, castle, 108. DALEGARTH FORCE, 29, DALLAM TOWER, 33. DALST0N HALL, 123. DALTON, stat., 14, Inn: Wellington. DEARHAM, stat., 112 1 m. N.W. of village. 154 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. Deep Dale, 139. Deep gill, 117. Denton Hall, 132. Derwent Island, 71. Derwentwater, 71. Deyoke Water, 29. Dialect, xxxi. Dickens, Charles, 136. DOCKRAY, 83. Inn: Royal . Dollywaggon Pike, 65. Dove’s Nest, 40. Dow CRAG, 32, 49. DRIGG, 24, stat. (Fur¬ ness Rly.). Inn: Victoria Hotel, by the stat. DRUMBURGH, stat. 125. DUDDON VALLEY, 50. Inn at Ulpha. DUNGEON GILL, 55. Inns: New Dungeon Gill; Dungeon Gill, kept by Bennett, the old guide, 1 m. higher up in the valley; both comfortable and reasonable. Dunmail Raise, 66. E Eagle Crag, 59, 75. Easdale, 62. Easdale tarn, 62. Easgill kirk, 149. Eden Hall, 100. Eden, R., 24. eel tarn, 53. EGREMONT, stat., 113. Inn : Globe. Ellenborough, 120. Elleray, 37. elva Plain, lio. Elter Water, 55. ennerdale Bridge, 90. ENNERDALE LAKE, 88. Inn : Boathouse, good. ESKDALE, 29. Inns: Wool pack, 1 m. above, and King of Prus¬ sia, 2 m. below BOOT, which see. Stanley Ghyll (Beckfoot Stat.), new and excellent (Tem¬ perance). ESKDALE GREEN, stat., 28. Inn : The Bower House , between Eskdale Green and Irton. ESK HATJSE, 76. ESKMEALS, stat., 23. Esthwaite Water, 46. F Fairfield, ascent from Grasmere or from Amble- side, 65. FAR EASDALE, 63. FAR SAWREY, Inn, 46. FELL FOOT FARM, 31. Ferry Hotel, 46. Fir Grove, 65. Flotjten Tarn, 86. force Crag, 85. FOXFIELD, junct., 31. Rail to Conibton, &c., 21 . Fox Gill, 42. FOX How, 42. friar’s Crag, 70. FRIZINGTON, stat., 24. FURNESS ABBEY, junct., 15. Inn: Abbey Hotel, ex¬ cellent. Furness District, 4. a Gabrosentis, xxi. Garbourn PASS, 38. Gatekirk Cave, 150. Gates Water, 49. Gatescarth pass, 45. Gelt, R., 132. Geology, xiv. Giant’s Grave, 22. Gibson (Dr. A. C.), 48. GIGGLESWICK, 150. GlLLERTHWAITE, 89. Gilpin, B., 46, Gills, xiii. GILSLAND, 133. Inns : Shaw’s (1 m. from stat.); Station ; Samson ; Bridge House. GILSLAND SPA, 133. Glacial action, xvii. Glannibanta, xxi. GLEASTON CASTLE, 14. GLENCOIN, 139. GLENRIDDING, 139. Goats Water, 49. GOLDRILL BECK, 60. Gordale Scar, 99. GOSFORTH, 115. Inn : Globe. Gough ( Ch .), 139. gowbarrow Park, 137. GRAIN’S GILL, 76. GRANGE, 7. Stat. Inns : Rigg’s Grange Hotel, first rate, in a beautifully picturesque situation ; very comfort¬ able. Charges by tariff moderate; being well sheltered onN.E. is suited to winter as well as sum¬ mer residence. Crown Hotel, also good. Com¬ mercial Inn. Hazlewood Hydropathic, very com¬ fortable and well man¬ aged. Grange Hydro¬ pathic, less expensive, but inferior. Banks : Wakefield, Crewdson Every 2S days bourne, Sydney, Noumea.j 10 th of each Month 25th of each Month INDIAN OCEAN LINES. 'Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Zanzibar, Mutsamudu, Mayotte, Majunga, Nossi-Be', Diego-Suarez, Tamatave, Reunion, Mauritius... Port Sa'id, Suez, Djibouti, Aden, Diego- Suarez, Sainte-Marie, Tamatave, Reunion, Mauritius. Nossi-Be' to Majunga, Ananalave, j Mainterano, Morundava, & Tullear / Diego-Suarez to Mozambique, Bei'ra, \ Louren^-Marques, and Natal ... / MEDITERRANEAN.—Weekly departures for Alexandria, Port Sa’id, Beyrout, Syrian Ports, Piraeus, Smyrna, Constantinople,Black Sea (Odessa, Novorossisk, Batoum, &c.). Fortnightly for Jaffa, Salonica, Syra, and DEPARTURES FROM BORDEAUX . For Corunna, Lisbon, Dakar, Rio 1 Janeiro, Montevideo & Buenos Ayres j Every 28 days For Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Pernam¬ buco, Bahia, Rio Janeiro, Monte¬ video and Buenos Ayres. 10 th of each Month 25 th of each Month BRAZIL and RIYER PLATE. Every 28 days OFFICES PABIS: 1, RUE VIGNDN. MARSEILLES: 16, RUE CANNEBIERE. BORDEAUX: 20, ALLIES d’ORLEANS. LONDON: 97, CANNON STREET, E.C. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 3 2KT. D. Xa. (Norddeutscher Lloyd). IMC 3ES TST. FROM SOUTHAMPTON To NEW YORK.— In addition to the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse, the Fastest Merchant Steamer in the World, the WEDNESDAY EXPRESS SERVICE will include the Kaiser Friedrich (Twin-Screw, 12,500 Tons, 25,000 i.h.p.) Kaiserin Maria Theresia (Twin-Screw, 8,000 Tons, 17,000 i.h.p.), the Lahn, and the Trave. The SEND AY TWIN-SCREW SERVICE will be performed by the favourite Twin-Screw Steamers, all of 10,500 Tons, and unsurpassed for comfort and steadiness at sea, Barbarossa, Friedrich der Grosse, Konigin Luise, and Bremen. Fares from £10 First Class. To AUSTRALIA. —Every 28 days, via Genoa, Naples, Port Said, Suez Canal and Colombo, Fremantle (for West Australia), Adelaide, Melbourne, and Sydney, by Imperial Mail Steamers, fitted with every modern improvement. To CHINA and JAPAN. —Every 28 days (this service will shortly become a fortnightly one), via Genoa, Naples, Port Said, Colombo, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Shanghai, by Imperial Mail Steamers specially built and equipped for this trade, and affording exceptional comfort. To THE RIVER PLATE.— Every 28 days, by Imperial Mail Steamers, specially built for the trade, with large State Rooms and perfect ventilation. Far Bates of Passage and all Particulars apply to — KELLER, WALLIS & Co., 32, Cockspur St., S.W.; 2, King William St., E.C.; And at MANCHESTER and SOUTHAMPTON ; or THE PARIS AGENCY OF THE NORDDEUTSCHER LLOYD, 2 BIS, RUE SCRIBE. THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY. mHE HIGHLAND RAILWAY passes through the most picturesque and -L romantic districts in the British Isles. Passengers when travelling over it from Perth to Inverness pass Dunkeld and Pitlochry, famed for grandeur of scenery and salubrity of climate, through the far-famed Pass of Killiecrankie and past the ducal estate of Blair Atholl. North of Blair Atholl it climbs the Grampians, with the famous Cairngorm Mountains on the east ; passes the entrance to Strathspey and on to Grantown, the latter being renowned for its climate, which is peculiarly adapted for persons siiffering from pulmonary complaints. The railway then stretches on to Forres, which place has by England’s greatest poet been immortalised as the scene of some of the occurrences connected with the tragedy of Macbeth. It then diverges at Forres to the east and to Keith on the one hand, and on the other to Nairn, Inverness and to Kyle of Lochalsh for the Isle of Skye. Nairn is a charming sea-side resort, and Inverness is the capital of the Highlands, from whence tours may he made to the West Coast of Scotland, the Isle of Skye, and the outer Hebrides. The railway skirts the North-East Coast for upwards of 160 miles north of Inverness, and' terminates at Wick and Thurso, the latter being the port for the Orkney and Shetland Islands. Through Carriages Are run between Inverness, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and London. Sleeping Cars With Special Attendants are run on the Night Trains between Inverness and Perth all the year round ; also between London and Inverness during the summer and autumn months. Cheap Tourist Tickets are issued to the principal places on the Highland Railway from the chief cities and towns in England. List of Furnished Lodgings in the district served by the Highland Railway will he posted to any address on application to the Superintendent of the Line, who will also he glad to answer any enquiry. Inverness, 1899. T. A. WILSON, General Manager; 4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, AIX-LES-BAINS. GRAND HOTEL DU PARC. T71AMILY HOTEL with Garden and Terrace, in the finest and airiest situation. Near j Jj the Baths, the Casinos, the Station, and opposite the Public Garden. Cheapest Terms, with Service and Comfort of the fir6t-class Hotels. Excellent Cuisine. _OMNIBUS TO ALL TRAINS. LUTHAUD, Proprietor. AJACCIO (CORSICA). The CYRNOS PALACE HOTEL F IRST-CLASS ENGLISH FAMILY HOTEL. Most Elevated and Sheltered Position. In full view of the Gulf and surrounding Mountains. Large Orange Garden. Pension terms from 10 Francs. E. EXNER, Proprietor, j During Summer at Hotel Royal audde Saussure, Chamonix. I ALGIERS. MUSTAPHA-SUPERIOR. I HOTEL CONTINENTAL ET D’ORIENT. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, Full South, Splendid View. Four Acres of Garden, Tennis Court. English Billiard Table, Calorif^re, Excellent Drainage, Hydraulic Lift, Aseenseur. Omnibus on Arrival of Steamers. j Printed Tariffs sent on Application. J. HILDENBRAND, Proprietor and Manager. AMIENS. HOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANCLETERRE, AND DE L’EUROPE. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, close to the Cathedral, the Museum, and other Public Buildings. Having been recently newly furnished, it ofFers great comfort. Families and Single Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and Single Rooms. Omnibus at the Station. English spoken. AMSTERDAM. | BRACK’S DOELEN HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL WITH EVERY COMFORT. _ H. F. HAHN, Proprietor. \ AMSTERDAM. AMSTEL HOTEL THE LARGEST HOTEL IN THE TOWN. I: Patronised by the highest class of English Travellers STRONGLY RECOMMENDED TO FAMILIES. Every Modern Comfort, combined with Moderate Prices. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTOINE. PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. rPHIS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well- J- merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms; fine Salle a Manger, excellent Table d’Hote and choice Wines. English, American, and French Papers. ^E" 3E3 jS^IIES PH 01WT2E3 - BATHS IN THE HOTEL. AECACHON. HOTEL DES TINS ET CONTINENTAL . Winter Station in the Forest. Best situated Hotel in the Pine Forest by the Sea. Full South and protected from the cold winds, between the Casino and the Place Oasis des Palmiers. The most recent built, with every modern comfort. Villas Bianca, Trianon, and Printemps Depend- ances of the Hotel. Telephone. Lift. G5£AT<7I5 HOTEL .—Managed by the same Proprietor. Situated on the magnificent Plage du Bassiu, facing the Casino. 150 Rooms and Salons. The two Hotels are strictly First-class. Lift. Telephone. Complete Hydropathy. ARLES-SUR-RHONE (France). GRAND HOTEL DU FORUM. F IRST-CLASS, the largest in the town. Full South, Entirely renewed and considerably enlarged. Bath Room. Saloons. Smoking Room. Antique Annexe, with a tower giving a splendid view of the country (Rhone and Camargue). Table d’Hote. Moderate charges. English spoken. Omnibus at the Station._MICHEL, Proprietor. BADEN-BADEN. Best Position in Baden-Baden. Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GRQ5HOLZ. TT'HIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-Class A Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade opposite the new General Post Office, nearest the Kursaal and the famous Frederic Baths and Augusta Baths; it commands the most charming views, and is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally fre¬ quented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in every respect, very moderate charges. Table d’Hote at 1 and 6 o’clock. English and other Journals. Beautiful airy Dining-Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, Reading & Smoking-Rooms. Pension in the early & latter part of the season. Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. Sanitary Arrangeme.nts perfect. BADEN-BADEN, First-Class Hotel, nearest Conversation House and Bathing Establish ments. Large Park. Recently A enlarged, by 40 quiet JnL’ _,_and sunny rooms overlooking the Park, Central St cam Heating, Hydraulic Lifts, Electric Light throughout, Charges Strictly Moderate, Pension. A. ROSSLER, Proprietor. 6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BADEN-BADEN. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND MOST FASHIONABLE RESORT IN EUROPE. BADEN-BADEN is unrivalled for its Summer Climate, deriving its special charm from its picturesque and salubrious situation among the lower hills of the Black Forest. Lovely walks and drives. International Races and Lawn Tennis. Good Fishing, Shooting, and various other Sports. Splendid Conversation House, with Concert, Ball, Reading, Restaurant, and Society Rooms. Excellent Orchestra. THE ESTABLISHMENT IS OPEN THE WHOLE YEAR. Hot Mineral Springs, specially efficacious for the Cure of Gout, Rheu¬ matism, and Disorders of the Stomach and Liver. NEW GRAND DUCAL BATHING ESTABLISHMENTS “THE FREDERIC BATHS” & “EMPRESS AUGUSTA BATHS.” Unique for its Perfection and Elegance. Mineral, Pine, Mud, and Medicinal Baths of every description. Perfect Sanitation. Magnificent Hotels and Villas. Excellent Educational Establishments. English Church. All information at the Bureau of the “ Cure Committee .” BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL AND BADHAUS ZAHRINGER HOF. FTHIS large FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is beautifully situated in the J- midst of a large Park, near the Promenades, Terraces, &c. Mineral Baths, Lift; Sanitary Arrangements perfect; Pension; Moderate Prices. H. BAYER, WM. and E. GROSHOLZ. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. TTIGHLY REPUTED and well patronised First Class FAMILY HOTEL, comtdning every modern comfort -*-L with moderate charges. Beautiful situation in the most elegant part of Baden, at the entrance of the Lichtenthal Allee, facing Promenade, Theatre, and Conversation House. Lift. Baths. Large Garden, oovered Restaurant Terrace. Electric Light. Open all the year. Arrangements (Winter Pension). New Proprietor, Atlolplt l>Ul’ill{fer, formerly hurhaus, Kreuznach, and Mena House, Cairo, Brunch Houses—Hotel d‘ Anyleterre, Geneva; Hotel dee Ambassadeurs, Mentone. T HIS beautiful FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT is the most important and the best situated, opposite the Central Station. It has been entirely refurnished and fitted with the most recent improvements. Vast covered Restaurant Terrace. Highly recommended. Terms moderate. HYDRAULIC LIFT. Managed by the Proprietor, E. J. GOETZINGER. BASLE. THREE KINGS HOTEL. L ARGEST First-class Family Hotel in Basle, in a quiet, healthy, and magnificent situation on the River Rhine, and in the centre of the town. Hydraulic Lifts. Electric Light. Omnibus in attendance at the German and Swiss Railway Station. Proprietor, c. flucel 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 7 BALE. HOTEL NATIONAL. Opposite the Central ■Station. First-Class House with Moderate Charges. Lift. J. WEIDMANN, Proprietor. BASLE. HOTEL HOPER, Opposite the Central and Alsacian Station. COMFORTA RLE HO USE. Moderate Charges. Central Heating. G. STOFFEL, Proprietor. BASLE. HOTEL SCHRIEDER ZUM DEUTSCHEN HOF. APPOSITE the Baden Railway Station. A Comfortable accommodation. Moderate Charges. M> ERNE, Proprietor. BASLE. HOTEL BERNEJl-HOF . Finest and most convenient position, near the Central Station. Excellent Cookery. Choice Wines. Baths. Very moderate terms. A. Geilenkirchen, Proprietor. BAYEUX. HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG. Reputed the best. Situated in the centre of the town, close to the Cathedral and public buildings. Breakfast, 2 fr. 50 c.; Dinner, 3 fr. Rooms from 2 fr. Table d’Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Garden. Billiard-room. Recreation Ground. Carriages for Excursions. ENGLISH SPOKEN. BERLIN. GRAND HOTEL DE ROME, UNTER DEN LINDEN. 39 (opposite the Royal Palace). FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. MODERATE CHARGES. Proprietor : ADOLF MUHLING, Purveyor to the Imperial Court. _____ _ BERNERHOF HOTEL, This beautiful First-class Establishment is the most important and the best situated in the Town, at two minutes’ walk from the Station, and close to the House of Parliament. It is surrounded by a beautiful garden with a large terrace, and commands a full view of the Alps. Its superior interior arrangements, the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlours, Reading Saloon, etc., make it the most desirable residence for English Families and single Travellers. Reduced Prices for protracted stays and in Winter season. Lift. Electric Light. Billiard Table. KRAFT & SONS, Proprietors. BIARRITZ. HOTEL VICTORIA. Imperial Grounds, Grande Plage. rpHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL replete with all the latest improvements. Sanitary Arrangements by -L Doulton. Fine situation opposite the British Club, in the Centre of the Best Promenades, and near Golf Links. 150 Rooms and Saloons facing the Sea and Full South. Lift. Electric Light. Calori- fere. Lawn Tennis. Renowned Cuisine. Carriages of all kinds. Moderate Charges. ___j. » oi ie\ i \r. BIARRITZ. FIR.ST CLASS. Unique situation facing the Sea. Large Garden, t Bath Rooms and Shower Baths. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Lift. Electric Light. Centre of the Town and Promenades. The comfort of the rooms and the careful attention to the cuisine and service have given the establishment a wide world reputation. ___MARCEL CAMPAGNE, Proprietor. BIDEFORD. Central for the whole of North Devon, Westward Ho, Clovelly, Hartland, Bude, Ilfracombe, and Lynton. ROYAL HOTEL. HIGH CLASS. Superbly furnished and lofty rooms. , Ventilation and Sanitary arrangements perfect. Continental Courtyard. Finest Stabling and Coach-honse in Devonshire. Delightful Winter Resort. A portion of the house built in 1688 by an old merchant prince retains its magnificent oak staircase and suite of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of “ Westward Ho.” Adjoining the Railway Station, with Private entrance. Overlooking the River Torridge and Old Bridge. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BIDEFORD. NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL. The Oldest, Largest, and Principal Hotel in the Town. Private Sitting Rooms, with excellent views. The House is pleasantly situated in the centre of the Town, overlooking the river Torridge, and other Hotels. Has recently undergone extensive additions and improvements. It is well-known for its superior accommodation combined with moderate charges. Proprietor of and Booking Office for the Clovelly and Bude Coaches in connection with the L. cV S. AV. Railway. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiards, two tables. H. ASCOTT, Proprietor. BLAIR ATHOLL. ATHOLL1 ARMSI HOTEL. ADJOINING THE STATION. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. BLAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit KilliecranMe, the Queen's View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry Turn- mel, and Fender; the.Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. ; and it is the most convenient resting place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. D. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors. GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS ET DES EAMILLE§. THIBAUDIBE G-1 <3- 25T O 1ST : Highly recommended to Strangers. VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D’HOTE AND RESTAURANT. Apartments for Families . Close to the Castle of Blois. Comfortable Carriages for visiting Chambord and the Environs. Moderate Charges. Baths in the Hotel. BeautifuHDining-room in Ulysse Pottery. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN. TELEPHONE. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. GRAND HOTEL CHRISTOL "AND HOTEL BRISTOL. First-Class Hotel and Restaurant. Highly Recommended. Situated near fjthe Bailway Station and Steamers. Mme. Vve. SAGNTER, Proprietress. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. HOTEL BES BAINS. Mr. Ij. WALLET, Proprietor. ICIEST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Port, facing the Railway Station and A Steamers. Near the Post Office and Casino. Bath Rooms. Advantageous arrangements made for a stay. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. FIRST CLASS. Recommended to Tourists. Select Company. Situated in the most Central part. Choice Cuisine and Wines. Arrangements made for a protracted stay. Electric Light. Telephone. Moderate Charges. J. BOUTON-DEPORT, Proprietor. [ 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS (France). GRAND HOTEL de PARIS The best in every respect. Lift. Electric Light. Telephone. Madame LEQUIME, Proprietress. LA BOURBOULE-LES"BAINS (France). HOTEL ET VILLA MEDICIS. Considerably enlarged, very comfortable. Electric Light, Telephone, Lift, Omnibus. Several Private Villas to Let. A. SENNEGY, Proprietor. BRUNIG. HOTEL KURHAUS BRUNIG, PENSION 3400 Feet above the Sea. Railway Station between Lucerne and Interlaken. MODERN SANITATION. SPLENDID HEALTH RESORT. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO ALGERIA AND TUNIS. By Col. Sir Lambert Playfair, K.C.M.G., H.B.M. Consul-Gen. for Algeria and Tunis. New Edition. Numerous Maps and Plans. 10s. 6d. Gordelingrerstr. BRUNSWICK. Gordelingrerstr. SCHRADER’S HOTEL. OLD RENOWNED, EXCELLENT HOUSE. ENTIRELY AND ELEGANTLY RENEWED. Very Good Beds. Fine Cooking . ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. dH£&.2?||eS. BRUNSWICK. HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS. P iROMINENT Central Location, opposite the Dome and the Castle Dankwarderode, near the Residential Palace and the Theatre. FIRST-CLASS ROUSE, NEWLY BUILT. Openly situated on three sides. Fireproof. EVERY MODERN COMFORT, MODERATE TERMS. ROBERT SCHRADER. BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL, CERNAY. Close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp and Spa, form¬ ing the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord. Moderate charges. Baths in the Hotel. Telephone. BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE L’UNIYERS&DE SUEDE Centre of Brussels. First Class. Moderate Prices. Electric Light. SCHOEFFTER-WIERTZ, Proprietor. BRUSSELS. PLACE ROYALE. In a fine open, healthy situation for families and gentlemen, entirely renovated. Near the King’s Palace, ’ 1 Park Royal Museum, New Law Courts, and other places ot interest. NOTED EOli ITS CUISINE. Co„d Win* »od«,a.e Charges, and c— Bo. add Md Bad,.. 10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BUXTON HYDROPATHIC BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Telegraphic Address, “ComfortableBuxton. National Telephone, No. 5. Apply, Mr. H. LOMAS. S ITUATED over One Thousand Feet above the sea level, sheltered from the north and east, overlooking the Public Gardens, and close to the celebrated Mineral Wells and Baths. Magnificent Public Rooms, American Elevator, Electric Light, Hydropathic Baths of every description. Electric Baths, Massage, Electro-Massage, the Nauheim Treatment and the Greville Hot Air Treatment. TENNIS, GOLF, HUNTING, FISHING. CINDERELLA DAjNCE EVERY SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. CAEN. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81. THIRST-CLASS. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the best Society. I- 100 elegantly Furnished and comfortable Bed Rooms and Sitting Rooms. Breakfasts a la Carte. Table d’Hdte Breakfasts at 3 francs; Dinner at Table d’Hote, 4 francs. Suites of Apartments for Families. Electric Light throughout. Baths. Telephone._ CAEN. HOTEL D’ESPAGNE. TpIRST-CLASS. Very Comfortable. Recommended by Baedeker’s -L Guide. Moderate Charges. Breakfast, 2s. and 2s. Gd. ; Dinner, 2s. 6d. to 7s. 6d., wine, cyder, and soda water included ; Bedroom from 2s. The Pro¬ prietor speaks English and French ; he is a Member of the Cyclists’ Touring Club, London. _ E. RENAUX, Proprietor. Strictly First-Claes, situated full South, right opposite the famous Esbekieh Gardens. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light throughout. Charges exceptionally moderate. Evening dress for dinner optional. C. AQTJITjINA (late of Thos. Cook & Son), Proprietor, CANARY ISLANDS. SANTA CATALINA HOTEL, LAS PALMAS. Facing the Sea. Surrounded by its own beautiful gardens._Sanitary_arrangements perfect. Private Sitting Nurse. Near Engnjii vnuu;u, uuu ximno, icimu, u.^. i COMPANY, Limited, 1, Laurence Pountney Hill, London, E.C. fitting Rooms and complete Suites of Apartments. Resident English Physician and Nurse. Near English Church, Golf Links, Tennis, &c. Address—THE CANARY ISLANDS CANNES. HOTEL ET PENSION DE HOLLANDE ET DE RUSSIE. High position, full south, in a magnificent Park, 15 minutes from the Sea, and close to St. Paul’s Church. Tram-Omnibus to and from the Town. F’ectric Light. Telephone. Moderate Charges. h.B.—Sanitary arrangements are perfect and with latest improvements. _E. ADAM, Proprietor. In Summer —Gd. HOTEL GOESCHENEN, at Goeschenen, St. Gothard Line. CANNES. Hotel Pension and Villa de la Tour. Well situated. West end, Cannes. Highly recommended and considered as one of the most comfortable Family Houses. Arrange¬ ments for short or long stays. Telephone, Tennis. Electric Trams to and from the Town] E. BENZ, Proprietor. COBLENTZ. GIANT HOTEL-HOTEL DU GEANT- rpHE best situated First-Class Hotel, just opposite the landing-place of the Steamboats and Fortress Ehrenbreitstein. Excellent Cuisine and Cellar. Moderate Charges. Reduction for a long residence. Lift. Electric Light, Ch. H. EISENMANN, Proprietor. WHYMPER’S GUIDE TO CHAMONIX AND MONT BLANC Crown 8vo., 3s. net. London : JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle St. 1899. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 PARI QRAn SAVOY WEST-END HOTEL Honoured by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales , H.I.H. Grand Duke of Russia, H.R.H. Princess of Saxe Coburg-Gotha , dec. T HIS] HOTEL is constructed and fitted up on the most approved principles of modern high-class Hotels. It is situated on the Schloss- berg opposite the American Park, in the healthiest position of Carlsbad, and is central to all the different Springs. First-class Restaurant, Grill Room, Ladies’ Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Garden, Verandah, Terrace, Electric Light, Lift. The new Cleopatra Villa in connection | with the Hotel will be opened 1 st May. A. AULICH & G. NUNGOVICH, | Of the Continental Hotel and Angleterre, Cairo, Egypt. CARLSBAD (Bohemia). HOXEL KROM. FIRST CLASS HOUSE, With every comfort of modem times . !N THE BEST PART OF THE TOWN AND NEXT j TO THE SPRINGS AND BATHS. EXCELLENT TABLE. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. TELEPHONE. Telegrams : KROH, CARLSBAD. CARLSBAD. HOTEL BRISTOL With Ddpendance, VILLA VICTORIA. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best location, close to Springs and Baths. Standing in its own grounds. MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICANS. Dining, Smoking and Reading Rooms. VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATHS. Telegrams“B ristol, Carlsbad.” CARLSBAD. ANGER’S HOTEL. (Branch, RHEIN HOTEL.) These two first-class Hotels offer special comfort to English and American Travellers, who will find them most desirable residences. Charges moderate. Deservedly recommended. English and American Newspapers. Baths, Carriages, Omnibus, Hydraulic Lift, Electric Light. FIBS T-C L A S S B E S1 A UBA N T. 12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CARLSBAD. GRAND HOTEL PUPP. JjHRST-CLASS HOTEL, recently built and splendidly furnished, situated in the best part of Carlsbad, opposite the new baths and close to the Springs. Much frequented by English and f American visitors. Unrivalled Dining, Reading, Smoking and Musie | Rooms. Electric Lighting, Baths, Otis Lift. Telegraphic Address: PUPP, CARLSBAD. | CARLSBAD. j HOTEL KONIGSVILLA! AND VILLA TERESA. f FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, prominent central location, close to jj the Springs and Baths, standing in its own grounds. DINING, SMOKING, AND READING ROOMS, VERANDAH. LIFT, ELECTRIC f LIGHT THROUGHOUT, BATHS. April and May—August and September—Reduced Prices. Telegrams Koxigsvilla, Carlsbad. COLOMBO, CEYLON. BRISTOL HOTEL, j In proximity to the Landing Jetty, the j Post and Telegraph Offices, Banks and Railway Stations. The only Hotel fitted throughout with Electric Light and Electric Bells. Renowned for its Cuisine, which is in j charge of a French I Chef. The Hotel combines the comfort of a Llome with the luxury of a First-class Hotel in Europe. Hotel Peon meets all the Steamers and takes charge of Luggage. o o o o TERMS MODERATE. Telegrams: “Bristol,” Ceylon. P. WERNER, Manager. 1899 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 COMO. GRAND HOTEL VOLTA VERY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. On the Border of the Lake. ROOM, LIGHT, & ATTENDANCE, From 3 francs. COPENHAGEN. HOTEL LINNEMANN. Peder Skramsgade, 1. Close by the Steamers, the Royal Theatre, and King’s New Market, and to Tramways to all paits of Copenhagen and Suburbs. Rooms from 1.50 Kr. per day. F. LINNEMANN, Proprietor. CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA). THE GRAND HOTEL. First-Class. F INEST and most Central Position in tlie Town. Com¬ pletely Renovated. Magnificent Dining and Reception Rooms to seat 300 people. Baths and Telephone in the Hotel. Interpreter and Omnibus to every Train. Noted CellarS- O. LRGEY, Proprietor. CONSTANTINOPLE. GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. HOTEL BRISTOL. GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE & ROYAL (,T. MISSIRIE). HOTEL BYZANCE, All these First-Class Hotels have a glorious view, and are replete with ever} 7- modern comfort. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on English Principles. ' ~ ‘ First-Class French and English Cuisine. COPENHAGEN. Vestre Boulevard. COPENHAGEN. "PlRST-CLASS HOTEL. Opened in 1898. 100 elegantly furnished Rooms and Salons l from 2 Kr., Electric Light and Attendance included. Magnificent situation, over¬ looking Park and Boulevard, and only three minutes from Railway Station and Tivoli. Finest Restaurant, Cafe, and Reading Rooms. PIERRE NIELSEN, Proprietor. N.B.—Only Hotel in Copenhagen with English Bath and Toilet Rooms on several floors. COUTANCES. GRAND HOTEL des TROIS ROIS rpHE most comfortable and the beat frequented. The only Hotel facing the Cathedral. First- class Cuisine. Very moderate Terms. Dark Room Cor Photographers. Cycle Room. Omnibus meets all Trains. Hr. GUINAUD, Ex-Chef de Cuisine, Proprietor. COUTANCES. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. Refurnished with every comfort. Re¬ commended to Families. Moderate Prices. Omnibus meets all Trains. Storage for Cycles. BRIENS, Proprietor. DINANT-STJR-METTSE. HOTEL DE LA TETE D’OR. ALEXIS DISIERE, Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS, upon the GRAND PLACE. x Is to be recommended for its comfort. Pension from 8 or 9 francs per day. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO DENMARK AND ICELAND. New Edition. Numerous Maps and Plans. Is. 6 d. 14 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GRAND HOTEL, DELHI. UNDER EUROPEAN MANAGEMENT. First-Class Hotel for Travellers to India, closest to Railway Station (and all). COOK’S COUPONS ACCEPTED. DIEPPE. Facing the Beach , close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ESTABLISHMENT AND ONE -L OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establishment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accom¬ modation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Room, with French and English Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. Table d’Rote and Private Dinners. The only Hotel in Dieppe with a Lift. DIEPPE. GRAND HOTEL. On the Beach, fronting the Sea. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Salle a Manger on the Terrace overlooking the Sea. Most Comfortable, with Moderate Prices. Arrangements made with Families. Baths in the Hotel. Table d’Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Telephone. Electric Light. G. DUCOUDERT, Proprietor. DINARD. 10 Hours from Southampton (via Saint-Dlalo). The Most Fashionable Summer and Winter Resort in the WEST OF FRANCE. Noted for its Mild Climate in Winter. GOLF, TENNIS, CRICKET, CYCLING, ETC. JOHN LE COCQ, Banker, House and Estate Agent. DINARD. It S'iDlNAN-PARAME. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 DINARD. F. GILBERT SMITH, Banker, House Agent; Tea, Wine, and Spirit Merchant. Full particulars of Furnished Houses to Let sent free on application. Lift. DRESDEN. Electric Light. s BISMARCKPLATZ, 7, near the central station. I'LENDID^sitnation in the English Quarter. Greatly patronised by English and American families. Every home comfort. Rooms from 2 marks, everything included. Pension arrangements. G. WENTZEL, Proprietor. HOTEL, Electric Light. Hydraulic Passenger Elevator. ENGELBERG. THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high), near Lucerne. Season 15th May—30th September. HOTEL SONNENBERG. T HE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand Alpine scenery. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recommended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG, in the finest and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central place for sketching, botan- islng, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The ascent of the Titlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths. Waterspring 5° R.; 200 Rooms. Pension from £2 6s. a week upwards. Because of its so sheltered situation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Resident English Physician. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. UTRST-CLASS HOUSE, newly opened, opposite Central Station. Finest part. Latest L improvements. Fine Garden. Electric Light and Steam Heating in every room. Lift. Rooms from Two Marks. Pension Terms. Highly recommended to American and English families. Managed by the Proprietor, MAX OTTO. DUBLIN. Charming situation , overlooking Stephen's Green Park. Most Central Position, Moderate Charges. 16 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. : KURHAUS HOTEL AND PENSION TITUS. I THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best situated in the valley, in the middle of an A- extensive garden. 240 Beds. Large sitting-rooms. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. English Chapel in the garden. Good attendance. Moderate charges. Cook tickets taken. Open from 1 st May j until 1st October. 3E5Z XT A. KTST J&. IEL *27 _ This new first-class Hydropathic Establishment with 250 Beds, two Lifts, Electric Light in all the rooms, Central Heating, opposite to the Hotel Titlis, will be open on the 1st June. The building is fitted up to the most recent hygienic principles. The various medical appliances fulfil the utmost demands of modern science and furnish everything necessary for hydropathic, mechanical and electric treatment. For illustrated prospectus and tariff please apply to the Proprietor, Ed. CATTANI. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL AND PENSION NATIONAL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 150 BEDS. Electric Light. Bath Rooms on every Floor. Pension from Seven Francs a day and upwards. FRAU DR. MULLER, Proprietor. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. 1 ; WELL KNOWN HOTEL WITH GOOD ACCOMMODATION, CONTAINING 100 BEDS. Conversation Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Baths. Pension : to 8 frs. a day, everything included. Reduced prices in June and September. Omnibus at Railway Station. Frz. WYRSCH-CATTANI, Manager. I EXETER, DEVONSHIRE. I POPLE’S NEW LONDON HOTEL. Patronised by H.R.H, The Prince of Wales. A DJOINING Northemhay Park and near the Cathedral. Large covered Continental Courtyard. Cuisine and Wines a great feature. Table d’Hote. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs. POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. FRANKFORT-ON-TH E-M Al N. Opposite the Central, railway Station. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL Lift. Electric Light. Calorifere3. K. PRANK, Proprietor. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 17 FRAN KFORT-ON-TH E-MAIN. FRANZENBAD. FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden). HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Station, Post, and Telegraph Offices. Best Situation. Good Attendance. Moderate Charges. Pension. MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. “The general quality of Murray, the scientific character of the information, the accuracy and interest of the historical par¬ ticulars, to say nothing of the lowness of the price, place his guides far ahead of any competitors.”— Satubday Review. Thia FirstrClass Hotel, with a beautiful large garden, is the nearest to the Station (on arriving turn to the right), with every comfort and moderate charges. Electric Light. Central Steam Heating. Lift. Telephone No. 2924. Hot aud Cold Baths. Rooms from 2 Marks upwards, Light and Attendance included. FRED. SCH.VIUTZ, Proprietor. (Formerly for many years Head Waiter at the Hotel de Paris, Strasbourg, Alsace ) 108-108, SALZQUELLSTRASSE. N EWEST LARGE HOTEL and PENSION, with elegant Dining and Reading Rooms. Own Park, with Lawn Tennis Ground. Patronised by Members of Imperial and Royal Families, and by the Aristocracy. Under personal Management of the Proprietor, T. F. KOPP. FREURENSTADT. (, 2,600 feet above sea .) RAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART , OFFENBURG, STRASBURG. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, in most healthy position on a charming hill, in the middle of a beautiful Park. Electric Light. Lawn Tennis. Sanitary Arrangements Perfect. Best centre for excursions. ERNEST LUZ, Junior, Proprietor. GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION FLEISCHMANN Rond Point de Plainpalais. Near the Bastion Park. Fine situation. MODERATE CHARGEI Electric Light. Baths. GOSCHENEN (St. Gothard Line). HOTEL AND PENSION GOSCHENEN. (Opposite the Station). First-Class Hotel, 80 Rooms aud Saloons Billiard, Smoking Room, Bath Rooms, Splendid Garden. Table d’hote at 12.30 and 7 p.m. Meals h, la carte at any time. Carriages at the Hotel for excursions. Return carriages to the Rhone Glacier, Brigue, Disentis, Coire, etc. Omnibus at the Station. Eug. ADAM, Proprietor. GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA (FORMERLY HOTEL FLAEGEL) Finest situation, near the English Garden. Splendid view of the Lake and the Alps. Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Omnibus at the Station. Lift. Baths. CENTRAL HEATING. W. NIESS, Proprietor. GRAND GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA PAIX. F IRST-CLASS, 200 Rooms, central and finest situation in front of the Lake and Mont Blanc. FRED WEBER, Proprietor and Manager. Telegraphic Address : “ Hotel Paix, Geneva.” GR1NDELWALD (Switzerland). Alpine Resort. THE BEAR AUD BLACK EACLE HOTELS. T)EBUILT on a magnificent scale, specially arranged and furnished to lb afford visitors every modern comfort. Summer and Winter Season. Under the experienced management of ROSS RROTHERS , Proprietors. O 18 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, HARROGATE. “THE GRANBY.” FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, facing the Stray. Every accommodation for visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning free of charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. Tennis Court in the Grounds. ELECTRIC LIGHT. ELEVATOR TO ALL FLOORS. STANDING FOR CYCLES. W. H. MILNER, Director. HAVRE. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. First-Class Hotel in the finest situation in Havre, facing the Jetty. Large and small Rpartments. Table d’hfite. Restaurant k la carte. English Spoken. Telephone 226. Vve. BLiOITET, Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO IRELAND. Fifth Edition. With 19 Maps and Plans. 9s. HAVRE. HOTEL D’ANGLETEBKE, RUE DE PARIS, 124-126. E XCEEDINGLY well situated in the best quarter of the Town and recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Apart¬ ments for Families. Music and Conversation Saloons. Rooms from 2 to 5 francs. Restaurant a la Carte. Table d’hote. Breakfast, 2 fr. 50c. Dinners, 3 frs. ENGLISH AND GERMAN SPOKEN. GRELLiS, Proprietor. HEIDELBERG. MOTEL VICTORIA. First-Class Hotel in every respect. Exceedingly well situated. Beautiful Verandah and large Garden at the hack of the House. Advantageous arrangements made with families intending a longer stay. Highly recommended. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL SCHRIEDER. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, nearest to the Station. Large Garden with covered Verandah. All Visitors' Rooms face the Garden. Oldest Hotel in the town, entirely renovated. Rooms from 2‘60 to 5 marks, including light and attendance. Arrangements made for prolonged stay. O. SUTTERLIN, new Proprietor. HEIDEN SWITZERLAND, Ct. Appenzell, 2700 feet above sea-level. Beautiful village, overlooking the lake of Constance. Exquisite health resort. Bracing Climate. FREIHOF & SCHWEIZERHOF FIRST-CLASS HOTELS. Extensive own grounds, shady park, wonderful view. Affords every home comfort. First rate cuisine. Sanitary arrangements. Lawns for tennis, croquet, bowls. Dances. Casino with dally concerts. English service. Goats’ Whey. Baths and Hydropathic Establishment. Electricity. Massage. Gymnastics. Milk from own farm. Terms moderate. Pension. Advantageous arrangements. Prospectus, illustrated. Season,May—October. Propr. ALTHERR-SIMOND. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 19 GRAND HOTEL Victoria. First-class. Unrivalled for its great comfort. 400 Beds. Electric Light throughout. Lawn Tennis Grounds. Concerts. Balls. First-class Restaurant. ED. RUCHTI, Administrateur. GRAND HOTEL Jungfrau. Firstnclass. Electric Light throughout. 300 B Rooms from Three Francs. First - class Restaurant. Grill-room. ED. SEILER, Manager. oo t==3 Sz! *■< C/2 -O s § C/Q ►*=£ ts-* W E-« H co ptj HILDESHEIM. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. First-Glass House, situated in the centre of the Town. BATHS IN THE HOUSE. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. CENTRAL HEATING APPARATUS. 50 Rooms and Saloons fitted up with every comfort of modern times. English Newspapers. C. HEERDT. INTERLAKEN. 20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Thirty-one hours from London, via Arlberg, to Innsbruck. Through tickets and luggage registered through. Twenty-three hours from Paris. T he beautiful and sheltered situation of INNSBRUCK renders it a very agreeable place of resi¬ dence all the year round. In spring as well as in autumn it is especially to be recommended as a stopping place between the different watering places. It is also to be recommended after a sojourn at the sea-side. Innsbruck is the centre from which many splendid excursions can be made in every direction, and of any length. Attractive walks in the immediate neigh¬ bourhood of the town^and the different elevations. The climate in Winter, dry, strengthening, su7iny, free from cold winds and fogs, has attracted many visitors of late years, and among those who have found the greatest relief are weak, convalescent, nervous, appetiteless, and sleepless persons. HOTEL TYROL. FIRST - CLASS HOTEL. (Opposite the Railway Station.) CARL LANDSEE, Proprietor. HOTEL OE L’EUROPE. First-Class Establishment. Affords every Modern Comfort. Electric Light nr Every Room. STEAM AND OTHER BATHS. Anton Hanreich, Proprietor. HOTEL SOLDENE SONNE (Opposite the Station.) FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. N.B. —University, Grammar, Music, and other schools. Private Lessons of every kind are available, so that studies can be continued and the education of children carried on. RENOWNED FOR ITS SUPERIOR :CUISINE AND WINE. “Restaurateur” of the South Railway Station. CARL BEER, Proprietor. HOTEL KRE1D. (Next the Station.) SECOND CLASS. The above Hotel offers Pension at the most moderate terms for the Winter Season, according to rooms, from fl.3 upwards, rooms included. RICHLY ILLUSTRATED GUIDES of INNSBRUCK sent on application, by the -Proprietors of above Hotels, free of charge. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 ' INTERLAKEN. RUGEN HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK. Not to be confounded with HOTEL JUNGFRAU. Highly respected and fashionable First-class Family Hotel. Situated in the highest and healthiest part of Interlaken. Beautiful views of the Glaciers and the Lakes. Very quiet position. Dustfree. Extensive walks in a large fir-tree forest. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. J. OESCH-MULLER, Proprietor and Manager. Branch House, Winter Season, Continental Cannes. INTERLAKEN. GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES. 200 BEDS. Opposite the Jungfrau, on the Principal Promenade (Hoheweg). First-class Family Boarding House. Moderate Terms. Personally conducted by the Proprietor— T. MATTS. INTERLAKEN. Grand Hotel M6tropole. ISCHL (Austria). Hotel Goldenes z. Facing the Imperial Villa. With Mountain View. Every Modern Comfort. Fred. EDLINGER, New Proprietor. AN IDEAL POSITION. 3C 3L 3E 8 3F5, A. O O MI 3S 3E5 BCOTEIi. THE PRINCIPAL AND ONLY-HOTEL ON THE SEA SHORE. rpHE Finest Private Marine Esplanade in the Kingdom. Unrivalled Sea Frontage and open Surroundings. Ground), Five Acres. 250 Apartments. Lawn Tennis, Croquet Lawn. Elegant Salle it Manger. Drawing, Reading, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, and Sumptuous Lounge Hall on the Ground Floor. Passenger Lift. Moderate Tariff. There ia attached to the Hotel one of the Largest Swimming Baths in the United Kingdom (the temperature of which is regulated). Also well-appointed Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. H. R. GROVER, Manager. The Ilfracombe Hotel Co., Ltd. To whom all communications should be addressed. ILFRACOMBE. FIRST-CLASS BOARDING HOUSE WITH MAGNIFICENT SEA VIEWS. 42 BEDROOMS. BATHS. BALCONIES. BILLIARDS. Finest l>rawiusr Iloom in Town. BIJOU Guide Gratis. Special Sanitary Certificate. W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor. HOTEL GERMANIA Opposite the Railway Station and near Steamboat Landing. Post and Telegraph Office nest to the House. Telephone No. 28. Table d’Hote at 1 o’clock. Separate Dinners and Meals a la Carte at all hours. Excellent Table. Kiel and Munich Beer. Dining Halls, Breakfast and Smoking Rooms on the Ground Floor. Restaurant Cafe with Billiards belonging to the Hotel, and respectfully recommended. KISSINGEN SPA. C OMPLETELY Reconstructed and Renewed. English and American Residence. Only Hotel in Kissengen with Electric Light in every room. Electric Lift. Excellent Sanitary Arrangements. Baths. Large Garden. Fine Open Situation opposite the Springs and Cur Garden. 140 Rooms. 22 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, KONIGSWINTER (Petersberg), Rhine. HOTEL ON THE PETERSBERG. One of the most beautiful mountains of the Siebengebirge. T^NTIRELY new building and every comfort. Airy lodging-rooms and Saloons with a Tj tine view, large dining and restaurant rooms. Large plateau with forest and parks, and beautiful shady promenades. Magnificent views in greater variety than from any other point of the Seven Mountains. Every Wednesday, Military Free Concert. Table d’Hote at 1.15 o’clock ; Dinners and Suppers at any hour. Acknowledged good cuisine and choice wines. Post and Telegraph in the house. Wwe. PETER JOS. NELLES. Address for letters aud telegrams: Nelles, Petersberg (Rhine). Communication with Konigsw inter directly by a Cog-wheel Railway. Corresponds with all trains of the State Railway and Steamers. KOPENHAGEN. HOTEL K3SHG KOPENHAGEN. von DANEMARK, FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, With 100 elegantly-furnished Rooms and Saloons from 2 kr. upwards. Preferred by the travelling public because of its central and open location, overlooking the Xing’s Square. In the, Hotel large newly-furnished only VIENNA CAFE, with Restaurant and Con¬ fectioner’s Shop; in summer with tables and chairs in the open air. Large selection of German, French and English Newspapers. German 'Waiters. Moderate Prices. Electric Light. Lift. Table d’hote at 4 o’clock. Sample Rooms for travelling salesmen. Newly fitted water-closets. Hotel Omnibus at the Railroad Depot. Latest Sanitary Arrangements. It. KLUM, Proprietor. _ HOTEL ORAN I EN HOF (First Class). F INEST Situation in its own extensive grounds; a well known and extensively patronised Establishment. Visited by Royalty. Every English comfort. Electric Light, Lift, Lawn Tennis. Conversation, Reading and Billiard Rooms. Mineral Baths. MODERATE CHARGES. _____H. D. ALTEN (formerly at Meurice’s, Paris). LISBON. HOTEL DURAND (English Motel) LARGO DO Q HINT ELL A. FIRST CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. Situated in the most central part of the Town. Highly recommended for its comfort and moderate charges. Reading Room. Several languages spoken. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO THE MEDITERRANEAN. Its Principal Islands, Cities, Seaports, Harbours, and Border Lands. With nearly 50 Maps and Plans. Two Parts. Post 8vo. 21.s. TEBMINUS of the GOTHARD RAILWAY on LAG -0 MAGGIORE. the HEARD HOTEL LOCARNO. BEST STOPPING PLACE on the ITALIAN LAKES. 27 hrs. from London. 17 hrs. from Paris. 4 hrs. from Milan. 7 hrs. from Genoa. 5 hrs. from Lucerne. OPEN the whole year. Most luxurious and comfortable home for all the seasons in Italy or Switzerland. Patronised by all the Royal Families. Unrivalled situation in the finest climate of Europe ; without snow, wind or fog, but with plenty of sunshine. Entirely adapted for winter residence. Pronounced by the body Physician of H.M. The King of Bavaria and University—Prof. Aloys Martin —to be the healthiest and best All Seasons Resort. Beautiful walks and mountain excursions. English Church, Doctor, Society. Lift. Private Steamer and Carriages for visitors. Exquisite Cuisine. Moderate charges. Electric Light in every room. Golf. Messrs. BALLI, Proprietors. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 23 LUCERNE. HOTEL DU LAC. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Magnificent Establishment, recently enlarged by a New Wing of 100 Rooms. 300 Beds. Splendid situation on the Lake, where the River Reuss issues from it. Next to the General Post Office. Close to the Railway Station and Steam¬ boat Pier. This Establishment has every modern comfort. Lift, Electric Light, Central Steam Heating. Baths de Luxe, open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Beautiful Marble Vestibule and Staircase in the Italian Renaissance. PENSION ARRANGEMENTS FOR A LONG STAY. OPEN ALL TEE YEAR ROUND. Proprietors: SPILLMANN & SICKERT. Fidrst-Olass Hotels. IN THE BEST SITUATION on the LANE and PROMENADE. 600 BEDS. LIFT AND ELECTRIC LIGHT IN BOTH HOTELS. ARRANGEMENT EN PENSION WITH PROTRACTED STAY (EXCLUSIVE OE JULY AND AUGUST). SCHWEIZEEH0F 0PEU ALL THE YEAE. WITH GOOD WARMING SYSTEM. Proprietors, HAUSER BROTHERS. LUCERNE. Hotels SchweizerM and LuzernerM 24 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, LUGANO-CT. TESSIN. (SWITZERLAND.) HOTEL METEOPOLE VILLA ENDERLIN. Lift. HOTEL, LUGANO. A. BROCCA, Proprietor. LUGANO (Switzerland). HOTEL ST. GOTTHARD. Splendid View of the Town and Lake. Near the Station. MODERATE TERMS. MIRALDI BROTHERS, Proprietors. LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by the English and Continental Poyal Families. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, especially favourite and attrac¬ tive. Table d’Hote. Reading and Drawing Rooms. New Smoking and Billiard Pavilions, all Facing the Sea. Magnificent Views, and Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres. ELECTRIC LIGHTING. THOS. BAKER, Proprietor. JL* 3T O IST £5L BEST HOTEL IN FINEST SITUATION. THE GRAND HOTEL. THE MOST POPULAR AND FASHIONABLE. The Only Motel at Lyons conducted on English Principles. MACOLIN (Lake of Bienne), Switzerland. 17V17R travelling through BIENNE (Jura-Simplon Ry.) Is entitled to Lnl Dui/ I break his journey and should not fail to take the Funiculaire (1873 yds., up and down, 1 fr. 50 c.) to Macolin, 3,000 feet. Just the place to stay in Spring and Autumn. See Baedeker and Bradshaw. Grandest View. Sheltered position. Over 1,000 Acres of Woods. Numerous Kxcursions. Cheap Carriages. Taubenloch Gorges surpassing in loveliness those of Meiringen. Island of St. Pierre. Passion Play SolzSiCh THE GRAND or KURHAUS. Entirely Fireproof. 90 Bedrooms, 40 with Balconies. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Superior Cooking. Late Dinner. Every Comfort. Post, Telegraph, Telephone, in the Hotel. English Chaplain and Resident Physician. Coupons taken. Tennis Court. Letters and Telegrams —“ Kurhaus Macolin (Swiiz).” Reduced Terms till July 15th and from September 1st._ Proprietor and Manager, A. WAELLY. MACON. GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE AND D’ANGLETERRE. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL. For Families and Tourists. Large and Comfortable. Sunny and Eastern aspect. This Magnificent Establishment is situated in the Valley of the River Saone with a splendid Panoramic View, including that of Mont Blanc. Wines for sale. Omnibus meets all trains. Special Terms for Motor Cars. _ ROUSSET-FOREST, Proprietor. MALMO. Proprietor : I. F. H. HORN, from Hamburg. Renowned First class House in the most beautiful ceutral location of the town, opposite the Railway Station and the port. Every comfort of modern times at moderate terms. Large Vienna Cafe with daily Orchestra Concerts. Hotel Restaurant. Baths. Carriages. Dinners kept ready for through-travellers to Stockholm and the interior of Sweden. 1899 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 MADEIRA (Funchal). 3* DAYS’ VOYAGE. KS.EiJCJO’S HOTELS. (Established 1850.) Telegraphic Address: “REID, FtnSTCHAL." By appointment to H.ft.EL the Duke of Edinburgh. REID’S NEW HOTEL AND ANNEXES. —Situated on the Cliffs to the west of Funchal, on the New Road, overlooking the Sea. Grand view of the Mountains. Sea bathing and boating. SANTA CLARA HOTEL AND ANNEXES.—“ Admirably situated, overlooking Funchal fine view of the mountains and sea.”— Vide Rend ell' a Guide to Madeira. CARMO HOTEL- —In sheltered ceutral position. These FIRST CLASS HOTELS afford every comfort for families and travellers. Excellent Cuisine and choice wines. Electric Light throughout. Tennis Courts, large gardens, baths, reading and smoking rooms. English and German newspapers. Billiards. The SANITARY arrangements have been carried out by the Banner Sanitation Co., of London. All Steamers met. Pamphlet Free. Apply to F. PASSMORE, 124, Cheapside, London ; Messrs. J. & H. LINDSAY, 7, Waterloo Place, Edinburgh : HOTEL TARIFF BUREAU, 96, Regent Street, London, W.; and at the STEAMSHIP COMPANY’S OFFICES, or WILLIAM REID, Madeira. Finest Situation in the !\ A A d S D A One Hundred & Fifty Island. IVI r\ L/ EZL I F"ir\. Feet above Sea-level. JONES’ BELLA VISTA HOTEL. Splendid View of Sea, Mountains, and Valley. The only Hotel with three acres of level garden ground attached. Tennis Court; Drawing and Billiard Rooms; Fifty Bed Rooms. Electric Light throughout Hotel and Grounds. Special Terms for Families. Telegraphic Address: “ Sans- pareil, Madeira.” Illustrated Pamphlet free from Hotel Tariff Bureau, 96, Regent Street, London; E. G. Wood, 74, Cheapside, London; Rogers & Co., 6, Oldhall Street, Liverpool; H. F. Dilley, 3a, Newington Road, Edinburgh; and F. C. Hayward, 52, Union Passage, Birmingham. Terms on application.EUGENE E. JONES, Proprietor. MARIENBAD. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Patronised by English. Elevated position nest the Principal Springs and Bath-Establishments. Numerous single and double bedrooms. Suites of large and any Private Apartments. Moderate charges. Arrangements for longer stay. Electric Light, Baths, Telephone, Lawn-Tennis. Comt-Omnibus meets all trains. t. HAMMERSCHMID, Proprietor. MARIENBAD. HOTEL KLINGER. THIRST and Largest Hotel, with private houses, HALBMAYR’S HOUSE, MAXHOF No. 100, and the newly-rebuilt HOTEL KLINGER. Most beautifully situated in this Health Resort. Corner house of the Promenade on the Kreuzbrunnen and the Park, commanding a charming view. Newly and elegantly furnished. 350 Rooms and Saloons. Conversation and Smoking Rooms. Electric Lighting. Three new Accumulator Lilts of the newest system. Table d'Hote and a la Carte. Meals sent out into private houses as per arrangement and a la carte. Carriages at the Hotel. Omnibus at the Station. J. A. HALBMAYR, Proprietor. MENTONE. GRAND HOTEL DE VENISE. ASCENSEUR. LIFT. FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH HOUSE, situated in a large garden, fall south, far from the sea. Restaurant, Smoking and Reading Rooms. South aspect. Luncheon and Dinner served at separate tables. J. SOMAZZI, Proprietor. 26 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, M ERAN. GRAND HOTEL. M OST FASHIONABLE FAMILY HOTEL, opposite the Curhaus and the Promenades. Magnificent Park and Garden. Large Terraces. Grounds for Croquet and Lawn Tennis. English Church in the Garden. All modern sanitary arrangements. Large Hall with Steam Heating. Lift. Electric Light throughout. Drawing, Reading, Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Excellent Cooking. Pension, including Room and Light, from fl. 4.50. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Open the whole year. L. ARNSCHINK, Proprietor. M|LAN HOTEL DE ROME. Admirably situated, full South, on the Corso, a few steps from the Duomo. Furnished and fitted up with the greatest care, is warmly recommended for its comfort and moderate charges. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Branch House—PIAZZA FONTANA, 8 and io. LIFT. ____ BORELLA BROTHERS, Proprietors. MILAN. HOTEL EUROPE. CORSO VITTORIO EM. Central, with View of the Cathedral, with quiet rooms facing the Garden. Select Family Hotel. Every Modern Comfort. L. BEliTOLINI (formerly at San Remo). Valais. MARTIGNY. Switzerland. HOTEL du GRAND ST. BERNARD NEAR THE RAILWAY STATION. V. GAY CROSIER, Proprietor. Heals served at any hour. Moderate charges. Carriages lor Chamonix and the Grand St. Bernard at a reduced tariff. Cook’s Coupons taken. ST. BERNARD DOGS FOR SALE. MILAN. GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN. Modern Comfort. Hydraulic Lifts. Central Steam Heating. Railway Office. Price List in every room. J. SPATZ, Proprietor. MILAN. BELLINI’S HOTEL TERMINUS Real English Hotel, near the Station. Heated throughout. Moderate Charges. Hotel Coupons accepted. Borter meets trains. Garden. Electric Light. F. BELLINI, Proprietor. MILAN. HOTEL MANIN. Perfectly quiet. Every Modern Comfort. Established 35 years. Patronised by En glish and American Visitors. F. BAZZARO. MUNICH. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. T N the Centre of the City. Opposite the Theatres and Royal Palace. Electric Light, Central Heatiug, Lift, Telephone in Every Room. Pension. Omnibus at Station. Moderate Charges. G. DANNHOFER, Manager. H. BRUNNER, Proprietor. MAXIMILIAN PLATZ. MUNICH MAXIMILIAN PLATZ. GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL SPLENDID FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Situated in the most quiet and fashionable quarter, and near all objects of interest. All modern comforts and improvements. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. Electric Light. Moderate Charges. M. PIENER, Proprietor. 1899 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 27 RUSSIA—MOSCOW. i 3311 O "37 3ES Xi IB IB 3Efc 31a IE 3ST- STJMMER GARDEN- ISO BEDS, WINTER GARDEN- Highly recommended to Tourists. Guides speaking English at the Hotel. rpHIS LARGE WELL-KNOWN HOTEL, situated in the best and healthiest part of the City, near the Kremlin and all other places of interest, established over half a century, lately entirely renewed and enlarged, affords hirst Class Accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Excellent Kitchen, Table d’Hdte, splendid Grill Room and Restaurant, Good Cellar. Billiard, Smoking, and Reading Rooms, with English, American, German, and French Newspapers. Good Bath Rooms. Hotel Carriages meet all Trains. _ CLAUSEN BROTHERS, Proprietors (Swiss). Telegraphic Address: “Hotel Berlin, Moscow.” MOSCO W. The Largest First-Class Hotel in this Town. SpeeNdid hestau^aNt, reading, MD BATH-^OOJVIS. FOREIGr3ST ZBflT IS SE3 JP -/&- HE® 3E2 . ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. ELECTRIC LIGHT. Omnibus. Interpreters to all Railway Stations. Telcphmte, flost anti ‘Telegraph (DtKre* in the hemse. j 28 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER May, NANTES. HOTEL DES VOYAGEURS. TjTRST-CLASS HOTEL, uear the Theatre. Highly recommended for its general Comfort and Moderate Charges. Excellent Cuisine. Telephone. English spoken. G-. CRETAUX, Proprietor. TJATirr PRTQTHT CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE. One of the best jn.UljLi.lj JDJniOl Uii, Hotels in Italy. The only first-cla8S Hotel, in the healthiest part of the town, and in an elevated situation, enjoying a foil view of the unrivalled panorama. It is built of a compact Lava stone which does not absorb moisture, and fitted up with the best Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light in every Room. Great Comfort. Excellent Cooking. Good Attendance. Lift. Moderate Prioes, and Arrangements for Prolonged Stay. A. LANDRY, Proprietor. This Hotel is open all the year round, and Visitors are respectfully requested not to allow themselves to be imposed upon by interested parties and importunate Guides or Porters, as all necessary information is given at tbe Hotel Bristol for the excursions from Naples, and as to the best shops in the City. NAPLES. THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL, Open all the year round. Quai Parthenope (New Embankment). Splendid situation— full South. Close to the Public Garden and the centre of the town, with magnificent view of the Bay and Vesuvius. Hydraulic Lift, Electric Light, Telegraph and Post Office. Every kind of baths. Moderate charges. Pension 8 to 12 Francs. _R. WAEHLER, Proprietor. NAPLES. Sea- Level. Healthiest and most beautiful situation ; close to railway stations for San Martino (funicular), and for Pozzuoli and Bais ; especially convenient for sightseeing. An English House. Recommended to English and American Visitors. Tariff and Electric Light in every room. Lift. Fixed charges, always including Baths in the Rooms, Light and attendance. NERVI. ‘ HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Sea aud Railway Station. 15 Minutes from Genoa. Stopping place for all express trains. Patronised by H.H. the Queen of Portugal, and ELExe. the Marschell von Moltke. HYDRAULIC LIFT. MODERN HEATING APPARATUS. NEUCHATEL. GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor. First-Class Hotel . Magnificently situated on the Border of the Lake. Commanding splendid Views of the Panorama of the Alps. Lift. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Garden. PENSION PRICES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. N.B.—Besides the Evening Train (direct) a Day Train is running between Neuchatel and Paris, and vice versa.’ _CENTRAL HEATING THROUGHOUT. NICE. GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE AND PARADIS. First-Class. Centre of the Town. T. CREPAUX, Proprietor. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 NEUHAUSEN, SWITZERLAND, FALLS OF THE RHINE. VIEW FROM THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every convenience. 200 Rooms. Fire Escapes. Hydraulic Lift. FINE GARDENS. Lawn Tennis—Carriages—Storage for Bicycles—Dark Room. A Charming Summer Hesort, noted for its healthy position, bracing air, and most beautiful landscape. BY MEANS OF ELECTRICITY AND BENGAL LIGHTS THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE BRILLIANTLY ILLUMINATED EVERY NIGHT DURING THE SEASON. English Divine Service in the Church located in the Grounds of the Schweizerhof. NICE. * HOTEL WESTMINSTER. F IRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Delightfully situated on Promenade des Anglais. ! Tbe finest position in Nice. Full south. Great comfort. Hydraulic Lift. Electric j Light in every room. Tariff moderate. Special rates en pension for a long stay. F. REBETEZ, Manager. NUREMBERG. GOLDEN EAGLE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE. Newly rebuilt. 200 Beds. Most central and best j position. Specially patronised by English and Americans. Arrangements made. Baths. Electric Light and central Heating in Corridors and every Room. Lift. Omnibus meets all trains. Under the personal management of the Proprietor, __WILLY SCHLENK. NURNBERG (NUREMBERG). HOTEL BAYERISCHER-HOF. THIS First-rate and Superior Hotel, situated in the centre of the town, is highly spoken of by English and American Travellers for its general comfort and moderate charges. Has been greatly enlarged, and contains now 100 well-furnished rooms and saloons. Ladies' and Heading Saloon, Smoking Room, &c., and a beautiful large Dining Room. English and Foreign Newspapers. Carriages at the Hotel Omnibuses to and from each train. English Church in the Hotel; Divine Service every Sunday. Electric Light. J. AUINGER, Proprietor. 30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, OSTEND. GREAT OCEAN HOTEL. (,Enlarged and Improved.) FIRST-CLASS & MOST FASHIONABLE HOTEL & RESTAURANT. Unrivalled for their Situation. Bath Room. Facing Sea and Baths. Highly Recommended. lift. Electric Light. OSTEND. GRAND HOTEL DU LITTORAL Most fashionable part of the Digue, facing Sea. LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY. LIFT, Etc. BOARD from IQs, per day. Near St. Malo (France). —The best Sand Shore on the Coasts of Brittany, sur¬ rounded by charming panorama, picturesque sites, and splendid views; sweet and very salubrious climate. GRAND MOTUI. DDES FARAMD. S ITUATED on the very Shore, near the Casino and Bathing Establishment. First-class Hotel, much frequented by the best English Families. Beautiful Dining Room. Restaurant. Saloon. Lawn Tennis. Hot Baths and Telegraph in the House. Very large Garden. Great Comfort and Moderate Charges. Very advantageous conditions in July and September. Omnibus of the Hotel to all trains and steamers. R.XGTJEI.X.X: and GRAJON, Proprietors. PARIS. 1 39, Avenue de VOpera, 39. FINEST SITUATION IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. First-rate Restaurant and Table d’Hote. Reading and Smoking Rooms. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. The Entrance Hall, Staircases, and Corridors are heated. Arrangements for the Winter Season. Telephone. Electric Light throughout. In the Paris “ Baedeker ” the name of the Proprietor, Mr. L. HAUSER, is particularly mentioned. PAU. HOTEL DE FRANCE. HPHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Royale, com- -L ruands the most splendid view of the whole chain of the Pyrenees, and is adjoining to the English Club. Improved Lift. Bath and Smoking Rooms. GARDEEES FRERES, Proprietors. POITIERS. ; GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. ! First-Class and recommended to Families and Tourists for its comfort and good manage¬ ment. The most central of the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, Prefecture, Telegraph, ! Post Office, Museum, Historical Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and truffled Pates of all sorts. Carriages for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel. ROBLIN-BOUCHARDEAU, Proprietor. PRAGUE. THIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL in the centre of the town. Patronised by English and Americans. First-rate attendance. Moderate Charges. English Church Service in the Hotel. OTTO WELZER, Proprietor. ‘ 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 PRAGUE. I HOTEL ERZHERZOG STEPHAN. First-Class Hotel. \ On the “ Wenzelsplatz,” nearest to the Railway Stations and the Post and Telegraph Office. ELEGANTLY FURNISHED ROOMS AND APARTMENTS. Garden. Restaurant. Viennese Coffee-house. Splendid Cooking and good Wines. Baths. Telephone. Carriages. Station of the Tram Cars. W. HAUTsTER, Proprietor. PRAGUE. HOTEL I>E SAXE. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, a Few Steps from the Central Station. IN THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN. AT THE CORNER OF THE CRABEN. Every Modern Comfort. Telephone. Baths. Carriages. ELECTRIC LIGHT. HYDRAULIC LIFT. MODERATE CHARGES. W. BENES, Proprietor. RAGATZ. Batfis aafl core Resort of Bagaiz-Pfaffers CANTON ST. CALLEN, 521 METRES ABOYE THE SEA, SWITZERLAND. HOT SPRINGS, 28° R. = 35° C. World-Renowned Resort, with the Wonderful GORGE OF PFAFFERS. Grand Hotel, Grand Hotel, RAGATZ. QUELLENHOF. Electric Lift, Electric Light, Railway Ticket Office in the Hotel. Large Park and Gardens, Lawn Tennis and other athletic games. Splendid situation. Beautiful View of the Mountains. Comfortable Bathing Establishment in the Hotels. Best stopping place for visitors to and from the Engadine. Newly organised Institute for Swedish Gymnastics (Dr. Zander's Method). New Hydropathic Establishment, With hot and cold Shower and other Baths. Scientific Massage (System Metzger). Large Kursaal brilliantly illuminated by Electricity. Cc-ncert, Reading, and Billiard Rooms, Cafe-Restaurant. Terrace with View of the Alps. Concerts three times a day. Dancing during Season. HOTEL PFAFFERS. At the Entrance of the celebrated Tamina Gorge, 3 kilometres from Ragatz. Post, Telegraph, and Telephone Offices. BATHS AND CUR COMMITTEE. 32 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, RHEINFELDEN BRINE SPA AND CLIMATIC STATION. GRAND HOTEL DES SALINES TjlIRST-CLASS. Splendid Situation on tlie Rhine. Every Modern J- Comfort. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light and Lift. Large Park. Lawn Tennis. Good Shooting. Trout Fishing. Special attention paid to English and American taste. Excursions from Rheinfelden to the Black Forest and to the Rhine Falls in half a day. Railway tickets and luggage booked direct between Rheinfelden and Paris. Season from May to October. j y piETSCHY, Proprietor. RHEIMS. GRAND HOTEL DU LION D OR. First-class. Only Hotel facing Cathedral. Comfortable Bed and Sitting Booms. Smoking Boom. Electric Light and all modern Sanitary arrangements. Private Apartments for Families. Large Court Yards and beautiful Gardens. Table d’H6te and Restaurant a la Carte. Choice Wines. Cuisine recherchbe. Hot and Cold Baths. English and German spoken. Telegraphic Address RADL1L Rheims. J RADLE, ProPrietor- MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO ROME AND THE CAMPAGNA. New Edition. Ninety-four Maps and Plans. Crown 8vo., 10s. ROME. Highest Position in Rome . SITUATED ON THE PINCIAN HILL. COMMANDING FINE VIEW OVER ROME AND CAMPAGNA. Electric Light in Every Room. Tariff and Plan on Application. EH1GLIIH IIOTET,. SAME MANAGEMENT, EDEN HOUSE, LUCERNE. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE, IN THE BEST SITUATION. ON THE ELECTRIC TRAM LINE. MODERN COMFORT. FRANZ NISTELWICK, Proprietor. ROME. HOTEL MOLARO. 56, VIA GREGORIANA (Near to the Pincio > FULL SOUTH. Healthiest Situation in Town, and very Central. Old Reputation for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. HYDRAULIC LIFT. Winter Garden. Electric Light and Calorifere in all the Rooms. ROME. HOTEL BELLEVUE (BELVEDERE), Fta No. tv male, corner of Viu Quirinale. Best Position, near King's Palace. South Rooms only. Pension. Moderate Charges. ROME. HOTEL VICTORIA (English house), Via Due Marcelli (Piazza di Spagna). New Large Dining and Sitting Rooms. London “Times'' and “Standard" taken in. Garden. Lift. Omnibus. Pension 6, 7, and 8 shillings per day. _EWALD THIELE, New Proprietor. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 ROME. GRAND HOTEL MARINI. First-Class. Unrivalled for its healthy, quiet, and central situation. Full South. Lift. Electric Light in Every Boom. (OPEN ALL THE YEAR.) E. MARINI & CO. ROME. CONTINENTAL HOTEL. All Modern Comfort g Open all Year Round. P. LEJGANI, Proprietor. ROME. HOTEL GIANELLi 15, Tin Ludovisi. ROME. This well-known First-Class Family House, greatly improved by the new Proprietor, is situated in the healthiest and highest part of Rome near the Gardens. FULL SOUTH. Moderate Charges. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CALORIFERE. Bath Booms, Drawing Booms, Smoking Boom . Special Arrangements for Families. OMNIBUS MEETS ALL THE TRAINS. T. LENGYEL {New Proprietor and Manager). i> 34 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ROME. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. Via BOCCA di LEONE. rnPIIS Hotel is conveniently, healthily, and quietly situated in the centre 1 of the City, between the Corso and the Piazza di Spagna, in the most aristocratic quarter of Rome. It offers every possible advantage, and Visitors may rely upon every English comfort. Charges Moderate. Special Arrangements for a Long Term. Open the whole year. Most frequented by Euglish. Particular attention is paid to the Cooking and Service. Lift. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Latest English Sanitary Arrangements. Entirely refurnished. R SILENZI, Proprietor. ROTTERDAM. First-Class Hotel. Finest Situation on the River Maas. Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Fire Escapes. Omnibus at every train and steamer. G. A. JONKERS, Director. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE On the Quay. Commanding the most beautiful view of the Seine. The Hotel has been entirely reconstructed and refurnished. Electric Lift, Telephone. Only Hotel in Rouen with a Lift. Moderate Terms. Table d’hote and Restaurant a la Carte. ROUEN. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. Rooms lighted by Electricity and heated by Calorifere. Situated opposite the Post Office in tbe finest Central part of the Town. Magnificent Garden in front of the Hotel, Reading, Music, and Writing Saloons. English Newspapers. English and German spoken. Rooms from 3 frs.; Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; Lunch, 2 frs. 50 c. ; Dinner, 3 frs. 50 c. Lift. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL de PARIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL situated on the Quay. Tbe most beautiful situation in the Town. Close to the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Landing Stages of the Havre Steamers. This Hotel has been newly furnished, and now offers equally as comfortable accommodation as the Largest Hotels, but with more moderate terms. Telephone 556. Electric Light. English and German Spoken. Member of the Touring Club. Dark Room for Photographers ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE, Situated in the centre of the Town, and midst the principal monuments. 114 Rooms, all lighted by electricity, from 2 Francs. 2 Bath Rooms. Garden. Good Table d’Hote. Dejeuner i,50fr., Dejeuner a la fourchette 2 50 fr.. Dinner 3 fr. Restaurant a la carte. Telephone. English spoken. A guide to Rouen and ttuvirons presented to every visitor. ROYAT LES BAINS. FIRST-CLASJS HOTEL. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LARGE GARDEN WITH TERRACE WALKS. OPEN FROM 15th MAY TO 15th OCTOBER. L. SERVANT. Pronrietor. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 After-Cure Resort: SALZBURG. Summer and Winter Station. GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE In the midst of a Splendid Park. Grand view of the Alps. Lift, Electric Light, Lawn Tennis, Evening Concerts in the Foyer, Anglo-American Bar. A FT Ell-CUBE APPLICATIONS : Chalybeate and Electric Light Baths, Steam-boxes, Rooms for Medicinal Inhalations and Brine Spray, Water Applications and Massage, etc. Treatments are performed by a certified staff of attendants in the presence of an experienced physician. Prospectus sent on application. GEORGE JUNG, Proprietor. SAN REMO. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Finest and Best Situation, Lift, Electric Light. Large Garden. M . BERTOLINI, Proprietor. (Also Proprietor of the Hotel Royal Courmayeur and Aosta.) SCHEVENINGEN. NORTH SEA. HOLLAND. KURHAUS. OPEN FROM JUNE 1st TILL OCTOBER . Magnificent newly-built Kursaal, capable of accommodating 3,000 persons. Terrace facing the sea to accommodate 5,000 persons. Refreshment, Drawing and Heading Booms, all most elegantly furnished. First-class Club. Two Concerts Daily by the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra (the best in Germany), consisting of 80 performers, under the conductorship of Court Band (Master Josef Rebicek. A Grand Ball every week. Dances daily. Children’s Dances, Fetes, Fire-works, Operettes, Variety Entertainments. Splendid Sea Bathing for Ladies and Gentlemen, separately or together. | HOTEL KURHAUS. The Leading First-Class Hotel in Seheveningen. (PROPERTY OF THE KURHAUS-COMPANY). 200 ROOMS AND SALONS. 300 BEDS. BATHS. Lift. Information and Railway Ticket Office. Dark chamber for Amateur Photo- \ graphers. Store-house for Cycles— all in the hotel. Large and commodious Restaurant. Excellent French cooking. Choice Wines, PENSION. Terms moderate. Tariff and Plan of the Rooms, together with the Season’s Programme, sent on application. During June, and from September 10th to end of season, 30 per cent, reduction on the charge for moms for a prolonged stay. All further particulars supplied on request by the Managing Director. English Divine Service in the Chapel opposite the Kurhaus. ShELlSBERG (Switzerland). LAKE OB' LUCERNE. HOTEL ANO PENSION SONNENBERG. First-Class Hotel, 300 Apartments. Splendid View over the Lake and of the Surrounding Mountains. Physician specially attached to the Hotel. Divine Service of the Catholic, Protestant, and Anglican Communions. Reduced Chargesjin Spring and Autumn. « w M. TRTTTTMAN Pb<">pr < ptoh. 36 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE Patronised by THE ROYAL FAMILY OF 3ELGIUM. IN THE BEST AND MOST DELIGHTFUL: SITUATION "OF SPA. LARGE GARDEN & TENNIS GROUNDS. Adjoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church. F. LEYE, Resident Proprietor. __ SPfl-Oldest, finest, and most efficacious Mineral ferruginous Waters—SPA Hotel de Haife SURY, Senior , Proprietor. The Largest First-Class Hotel IN THE CENTRE AND MOST SALUBRIOUS PART OF THE TOWN. Beautiful Park, with furnished Villas and Cottages in the Private Grounds of the Hotel. BATHS. Drawing, Writing and Billiai'd Rooms. Electric Light throughout. SPA. HOTEL BELLE YUE. Magnificent Situation on the Promenade, near the Royal Palace and Bath Establishment. Large Garden, communicating with a First-class Park. Electric Light. ROUMA, Proprietor. GRAND HOTEL A DE L’EUROPE. First-class, close to the Mineral Springs, Casino, and Anglican Church. Omnibus to meet all Trains. FAMILY HOTEL EVERY MODERN COMFORT. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. ELECTRIC LIGHT. HENRARD-KICHARD, Proprietor. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 ST. PETERSBURG. A RUE MICHEL a ST. PETERSBOURG. CORNER OF THE NEVSKI PROSPECT AND MICHEL STREET. VERY CENTRAL POSITION. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, 300 Rooms, including 100 Apartments, WITH EVERY MODERN IMPROVEMENT AND COMFORT, Telegraphic Address: “ EUROPE, ST. PETERSBURG.” OMNIBUSES MEET ALL TRAINS AND BOATS. TWO LIFTS. ONLY HOTEL WITH ELECTRIC LIGHT. 38 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ST. PETERSBURG. HOTEL* DE FRANCE, Kept by K. RENAULT. T>EST situation in the Town, Great Morska'ia, right opposite the Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Nevski Prospect. Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented, especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papers. Greatly to be recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine . Dinners 1 r. 50 k. and 3 r. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles. All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on the Premises. The English Guide, Bernard Franke, highly com¬ mended. The Hotel is recommended in Murray's Handbook of Russia. The HOTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL BE FRAE’CE, belongs to the same Proprietor. ST. PETERSBURG. rpHIS well-known HOTEL has the best situation in St. Petersburg. It has lately been entirely renovated and affords First-class Accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Excellent Kitchen and Cellar. Reading Room with English and American Newspapers. French, German and English spoken. Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamers. Under English Management. Telegraphic Address: “ Angleterre, Petersburg.” TH. SCHOTTE, Manager. 1899. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 ST. BEATENSERG Near INTERLAKEN, SWITZERLAND. First-class Climatic Station. Hotel et Pension de la Poste. First-class House. New stone building. Every comfort. Situated in centre of beautiful Pro¬ menade, with splendid View of the Alps. Post, Telegraph, and Telephone Office in the Hotel. Moderate Tariff. EGL1-BRUNNER, Proprietor. STRASBOURG. Hotel National. The only First-Class Hotel newly built. Opposite the Railway Station. Bath and Lift System improved. Large and Small Apart¬ ments for Families and Single Gentlemen. Moderate Charges. Electric Light throughout. Electric Trams from the Hotel to all parts of the town. sg rAM. Proprietor. STRASBOURG. HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS. UNIVERSALLY REPUTED. HYDRAULIC LIFT. ELECTUIC LIGHT THhOUGHOUT. UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. The largest and most comfortable Hotel in Strasbourg, with all modern comfort. Situated in the finest part of the town, near the Palace, Cathedral, and Promenade. Patronised by Royalty and highly recommended to English and American Families and Gentlemen. __C. MATHIS, Director Proprietor. STUTTGART. Direct Entt‘ 2173 2 toiu QUvfU f Supposed* > id Mine Sitotrhto■ forth wnitr- MaidenhiU Inn j-fledm y&xile 1 'ftso. 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