■'-^'JW . ^^., -ViV.« -. ^ ilb^ S.Ii Hill Stbrarg T31490 No G-4*3 Y Tex.lib. Norwich Free Academy NORWICH, CONN, C J- .^' . "^ f^m^^ Book c/)^e This hook must not he token from the Library huilding EXCEPT WITH THE SPECIAL PERMISSION OF THE LIBRARIAN 8 H73 SEP 1 3 1974 APR 2 9 «t® ES 2 7 iSoO lOM ■'^V- "tt Digitized by tine Internet Arcinive in 2010 with funding from NCSU Libraries littp://www.arcliive.org/details/artofweavingbyliaOOgilr THE ART OF WEAVING, BY HAND AND BY POWER, WITH AN INTRODUCTORY ACCOUNT OF ITS RISE AND PROGRESS IN ANCIENT AND MODERN TIMES. FOR. THE USE OF MANUFACTURERS AND OTHERS. BY CLINTON G. GILROY, PRACTICAL WEAVER AND MANUFACTURER. GENERAL SUBJECTS OP THIS -WORK. 1. Plain Weaving. 2. Tweeling. 3. Double Cloth, (plain and tweeled,) Mar- seilles Quilting and Velvets. 4. Cross Weaving, comprising Gauze and Net Work. 5. Figured Weaving. 6. Carpeting ; including Ingrain, Imperial, Brussels, Wilton, Turkey and Velvet Pile ; also Rugs, Tapestry, etc. 7. Lace and Embroidery. 8. Plain and Figured Weaving by Power. ILLUSTRATED BY APPROPRIATE ENGRAYINGS. IN ONE VOLUME. NEW YORK: GEORGE D. BALDWIN, 35 SPRUCE STREET. 1844. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1844, by GEORGE D. BALDWIN, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. STEREOTYPED BY T. B. SMITH, 216 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK. ADVERTISEMENT. In making books we own that we are ^green,^ And for defects this should be some apology. The Author of this Treatise has not been Plucking sufficient fruit from off the knowledge tree ; A fact which by our readers will be seen, Without the proofs afforded by phrenology ; But, to avoid the evils of satiety, We shall endeavour to give some variety. Materials inexhaustible abound, Which, if well handled, might adorn our pages ; By learning, metaphysical, profound. We might, no doubt, be rank'd among the sages ; The natives too, perhaps, we might astound, Witli lists comparative of weavers' wages; Or, essays on political economy ; Or, loftier still, the science of astronomy. Though all these themes are worthy of attention. We think it proper in this place to state. That to exclude all chances of dissension, The Author shall not in this Work relate A sentence, which, by men o^ comprehension, Could e'er be deem'd admitting of debate : Hence, politics we never once shall touch, Lest we should say too little, or loo much. 'Tis wisdom to make hay while weather's sunny; But, here we should not be misunderstood : We disavow all thoughts of making money: We publish solely for the public good, (Our own included). Op'ning flowers yield honey ; This Book shall yield to weavers ample food ; Food for the mind, which, when digested, may Yield food to fill the body every day. The present Work is not a periodical ; We do not publish number after number Poetic, philosophical, rhapsodical, With shining gems amidst a mass ofjumber. Our plan, in most respects, is quite methodical. Meantime, our readers we shall not encumber With more remarks, but show them, with facility, A specimen or two of our ability. -| '^ '^ A ^f^ CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. PAGE Spinning, by Zabozok, of Nodville — Wallotty Trot's Spinning Jenny — Origin of Weaving, by Glielen — Weaving among the Ancient Egyp- tians — Late Discoveries in Egypt, by Doctor Lepsius, Mr. Fellows, and others — Bronze Power Loom — Dimity Power Loom — Fork and Grid Stop-thread Motion — Ancient Net-work or Lace — Decorations of Sol- omon's Temple — Ancient Spinning Machine, with 256 Spindles, &c. — Babylonian Pen-knife — Silk Manufacture in China — The Gods' Eyes Puncher — Seven-ply Carpeting — Figured Weaving in India — Pope Alexander VI, his Account of the Cloth Manufacture in Ancient Times by Arkite Ghiden Ghelen — Discoveries in Arabia — ZannkulK. Euzen, King of Nodville — Oration on Weaving, delivered by Arphaxad before Deioces, first King of the Medes — Alarm Loon — Lemuel P. Arybas, of the Plains of Shinar, the Inventor of the Jaw-Temple — Letter from Alexis Kersivenus, of Alexandria, Egypt — Contest in Weaving between Minerva and Arachne — Egyptian Tapestry Weav- ing, with imperial Let-off and Take-up Motions — Weaving in Pales- tine, described by Pope Leo X — Weaving Gold and Silver — Wire- drawing Machine, invented by Zurishaddai, of Sidon-Pope G XVI, his Samples of Gold and Silver Lace-wire, &c. — Specimen of Egyptian Shebetz, procured from Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt — A Mantle of Shinar — Babylonish Carpets and Shawls — Persian Carpets — Egyp- tian Carpets, with raised Pile — Tyrian Purple — Grecian Tapestry — Sale of Old Maids at Public Auction, by the Assyrians — Coan Robes — Coan Vests — Account of Joseph's Coat, by Pope Leo X — The Pope in error — Basharaboo's account of Joseph's Coat — Manufactures of Lydia and Phrygia — Letter from Alexis Kersivenus. • . . 1 SECTION FIRST. PLAIN WEAVING. Winding or Spooling — Beaming-^Drawing or Entering — Yarn Beam — Cloth Roller — Rods — Headles — Lay and Reed — Temples— Shuttles — Operation of Weaving — Sizing — Treading — Crossing the Shuttle — Striking up the Weft — Stripes and Checks — W^arping Striped Webs. &c 69 CONTENTS. SECTION SECOND. TWEELING. PAGE. Tweeled Cloth— Mounting of Looms for Tweeling— Draughts and Cord- ings — Arrangement of Treadles — Breaking the Tweel — Various kinds of Tweels — Various kinds of Tweeled Stripes — Dimity Cord Mount- ing — Domic and Diaper — &c 96 SECTION THIRD. V^^EAVING DOUBLE CLOTH-. Tweeling Double Clotli— Marseilles Q,uilting — The Junction of Two Unequal Fabrics— Diagonal Q,uilt— Waved GLuilt— Diamond GLuilt — Double Cloth Harness— Velvets— Plain or Tabby-backed Velvet — Sim- ple Jean Velvet — Plush Velvet — «fcc 116 SECTION FOURTH. V7EAVING CROSSED WARPS. Common Gauze — Gauze Mountings— Whip Net — Spider and Mail Nets — Patent Net or Night Thought — Princess Royal Net — Dropped Nets, &c. 124 SECTION FIFTH. FIGURED WEAVING. ' Draw Loom — ^Mounting the Draw Loom — Reading or lashing Patterns — Counterpoise Harness — Design and Colouring — Ornamental Drawing — Harmonious Colouring — Design Paper — Designing Patterns — Comb Draw Loom 143 SECTION SIXTH. FIGURED WEAVING. Barrel or Cylinder Loom — Jacquard Machine — Cutting or Punching the Pattern Cards 182 SECTION SEVENTH. CARPETING. Ingrain, Three-ply, Wilton, Brussels, Velvet Pile and Turkey Carpets — Manufacture of Carpets, Rugs, &c., by Cementing a Nap or Pile on Plain Cloth — Chenille — Gobelins Tapestry — Cashmere Shawls — Origin and Progress of the New Race of Cashmere or Angora Goats — Spinning Cashmere Wool — Weaving Imitation Cashmere Shawls— &c 210 SECTION EIGHTH. LACE MANUFACTURE. Eff5T>tian Lace — Letter from Alexis Kersivenus — Various kinds of Lace- nialcing Machines — Embroidery — Hielmann's Embroidering Machine — LiMter from Mr. Hielmann 275 CONTENTS. SECTION NINTH. Spooling, Warping and Sizing, by Power 330 SECTION TENTH. PLAIN WEAVING, BY POWER. Sharp, Roberts &, Co.'s Loom— Howard and Scattergood's Loom, with C. G. Gilroy's Improvements thereon— C. G. Gilroy's Improved Loom — Amassa Stone's Loom— Oliver C. Burr's Loom— Gilroy's Patent- Welcome A. Potter's Loom— Horace Hendrick's Loom— Frederick Downing's Loom— Elijah Fairman's Loom— O. M. Stillman's Loom — W. T. Shallcross's Loom— Thomas Welch's Loom — Thomas Mel- lowdew's Loom 345 SECTION ElEVENTH. FANCY WEAVING, BY POWER. Charles Fletcher's Loom— George Clarke's Loom — Robert Bowman's Loom — Richard Roberts' Loom — John Potter's Loom — Joseph Jones's Loom— Burt and Boyds' Loom— Manufacture of Silk Goods— Taffetas —Shining Taffeta— Gros de Naples— Thick Silk Cloth— Satin— Headle-making machine— Improved Headles— Varnishes for Headles —Jaw Temple— Draper's Rotary Temple— Craig and Cochran's Im- proved Rotary Temple— Fork and Grid Motion— BuUough and Gil- roy's Patents 386 SECTION TWELFTH. FIGURED WEAVING, BY POWER. Damask — Haight and Bigelow's Carpet Looms — Tompkins and Gib*oy's Damask Loom— C. G. Gilroy's Marseilles Quilting Loom, with Thomas Yates' Improvements thereon — E. B. Bigelow's Quilting Loom — Berry's Metallic Tissue Loom— Glass Weaving— C. G. Gilroy's Full- harness Jacquard Loom — Dohmme and Romagney's Jacquard — Fred- erick Goos' Jacquard— C. G. Gilroy's Presser-harness Jacquard Loom —Claims of E. B. Bigelow's Patents— Evidence of Select Committee of the House of Commons on Arts and Manufactures — Reed Scale — Gilroy's Specimens of Design Paper — French Card Cutting or Punching Machine — Reports of French, English, and other Manufac- turers on C. G. Gilroy's T^ooms, with Letter from Hon. H. L. Ells- worth — C. G. Gilroy's Loom Mountings, &c. — Gilroy's Weft Calcula- tion Tables, &c 423 INTRODUCTION. A THOROUGH knowledge of the Art of Weaving, in all its va- rieties, is the gradual result of indefatigable exertion, and cannot be acquired, except by a long course of practical application in those parts of the world where it is best understood. Many of our American weavers already possess sufficient skill and dexterity in several branches of this, the most complex of all arts, to prove dangerous rivals to those similarly engaged in other parts of the globe ; but the field for improvement is still very ex- tensive. In every quarter of this vast country men of scientific genius are busy in applying those elementary and specidative prin- ciples, which were formerly confined to the closet of the philosopher, to the grand purpose of social improvement. The great chain which connects theory with the useful arts, is rapidly extending, and it is impossible to anticipate what may be the result. The fabrication of ahnost every species of cloth appears to have been carried on to a surprising extent in the ancient world ; and a knowledge of the processes by which it was accomplished, together wnth the improvements made on many of them since their intro- duction into Evu'ope, are objects of the first national importance, and no apology is necessary for our attempting a collection of facts on the subject, embodying them with our own experience as a prac- tical weaver and manufacturer, in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Belgium, Prussia, &c., for nearly a quarter of a century. Although the art of weaving the more common fabrics is exten- sively known in this country, nevertheless, the intricate and orna- mental textures are not 2oell understood ; neither have they been explained by any one thoroughly versed in the business ; which precludes the necessity of further observation from us on this head. A variety of publications relative to this branch of industry, de- signed for the use of weavers of common fabrics, haA^e, indeed, ap- peared, at different times, by such authors as O'Doherty, Diogenes, 2 INTRODUCTION. Murphy,Greenougli.Peddie,0'\Vestman, Yates and Uie; but, that these writers were whoU)', or in a great measure, ignorant of the subject, Ave have demonstrative proofs in their own works. The books of these men contain merely such scraps and sketches as were furnished for them, by persons who required instruction them- selves, as the matter there presented, abundantly testifies. Such compilations are nearly filled witli tables and useless repetitions, "ybr the purpose of facilitating calculatio7i," as they are termed. These tables appear rather to have been intended for the use of the plain cloth manufacturer of the twelfth century, than for the fancy warper, or figure weaver of our own day. To the mechanical part of the business, such as the construction of the looms and other appa- ratus requisite for the production of the more intricate kinds of tex- tures, a7id the necessary jjractical instructions, they have scarcely alluded in theh treatises. They only speak of the art in its im- perfect state, as it existed in England, Ireland, and Scotland in times long past ; and hence such books are not calculated for the present age of improvement. Indeed, it seems to usj that these authors were, (in the words of Pollok) " Resolved {in spite of fate) before tliey died, To make some grand discovery, by which They should be known to all posterity." The great majority of mankind are ever prone to limit their de- sire of information, to that which seems at the time most necessary to their subsistence. The weaver who is accustomed to be em- ployed at one kind of work, seldom troubles himself to enquire by what means other kinds are now, or were produced ; and although by this constant application to one branch, he increases his prac- tical dexterity in it ; yet. such a course, at the same time, tends to impede his progress in the attainment of a complete knowledge of his vocation. Indeed, many of the different species of weaving have already l^ecome nearly local. In Great Britain, for example, the jManchester weaver is, in general, as ignorant of the mode of mounting a gauze spider net, as he of Paisley or Glasgow, is of a Pekin brocade, or an Egyptian shehetz. The division of labour, however, is carried still further : the mounting of a loom in the figured department is frec^uently the business of several persons, and the working of it that of from one to six others. Some figured looms have as many as eight Jacquards, of 400, 600, 900, and even 1300 needles each ; and from one to four pulley-boxes, each of which has a tail, simple, and drawboy to operate upon it. These complicated looms contain from one to twelve cumber boards (some- INTRODUCTION. S times called harness boards) which are often made stationary ; but at other times one, or more are elevated or depressed, at every 2d, 3d, 4th, or 6th, passage of the shuttle. In weaving Marseilles quilting and petticoat robes, on this plan, only two shifting harness boards in connection with two, or more leaves of headles, are used. But these subjects will be more fully treated of in another place. The study of the art of weaving will at least afford to an inquisi- tive mind, a source of rational and innocent amusement. Besides this consideration, many circumstances concur, to render records of the state of every art, peculiarly desirable. It is well ascertained by the researches of antiquarians and hierologists, that many use- ful branches of art, which were known and practised by the an- cients, have been almost entirely lost, for want of such records. Perhaps two-thirds, or more of them have thus sunk into oblivion ; take for example, that of weaving six and seven ply carpeting, (known to the ancients under the cognomen of Tymoliis matting^* by the power of compressed air. * The eminent German hierologist, Dr. Lepsius, now employed in Egypt by the Prussian government, in a recent letter, after mentioning the many (iis- coveries he had made of ancient ruins, tombs, &c., writes as follows: " With the exception of about twelve, Avhich belong to a later period, all these tombs were erected contemporaneously with, or soon after, the huildinof of the great pyramid, and consequently their dates throw an invaluable light on the study of human civilization in the most remote period of antiquity. — The sculptures in relief are surprisingly numerous, and repre.'ent whole fig- ures, some the size of life, and others of various dimensions. The paiittingn are on back grounds of the finest chalk. They are numerous and beautifni beyond conception — as fresh and perfect as if finished yesterday ! Tlie pic- lures and sculptures on the Avails of the tombs represent, for the most part, scenes in the lives of the deceased persons, whose wealth in cattle, fish boats, servants, &c., is ostentatiously displayed before the eye of the spectator. All this gives an insight into the details of private life among the ancient Egyp- tians. By the help of these inscriptions I think I could, without difficulty, make a Court Calendar of the reign of King Cheops. Bat^ my friends, let no vwnument give you or me hopes, since not a pinch of dust is left unturned, by us, of the mortal remains of old King Cheops ! In some instances I have traced the graves of father, son, grandson, and even great grandson — all that now remains of the distinguished families, which five thousand years ago, formed the nobility of the land. I now employ daily fifty or sixty men, in digging and other kinds of labour, and a large excavation has been made in front of the great Sphynx." Another writer has condensed from Rosellini, and other hierologists, the following remarks : " Philologists, astronomers, chemists, painters, architects, physicians, must return to Egypt to learn the origin of language and writing — of the calendar 4 INTRODUCTION. The ornamental arts are so much reflated by the prevaUing fashion, and caprice of mankind, that many sj^ecies of fancy manu- factures he nesflected for years, and. in many instances, they could and solar moiion — of the art of cutting granite with a copper chisel, and of giving elasticity to a copper sword — of making gla-ss witli the variegated hues of the rainbow — of mo\'ing single blocks of poUshed syenite, nine hundred tons in iceisht. for any distance by land and water — of building arches round, and pointed with masonic precision, unsurpassed at the present day, and antece- dent, by two thousand years before the Dorians are known in histor}- — of fresco painting in imperishable colours — and of practical knowledge of ein- atomy. " Every craftsman can behold, in Eg}-ptian monuments, the progress of his art four thousand years ago ; and whether it be a wheel-wright building a chariot ; a leather cutter using the self same form of knife of old as is consid- ered the best form now ; tlie plain, and fancy weavers actively employed at their respective looms : a white smith using that identical form of blow pipe, but lately recognized to be the most efficient ; the seal engraver cutting in hieroglj'phics such names as Shoofd's.ArpTiaarad's. and Arkite Ghiden Ghe- len's, above four thousand three hundred years ago ; or even the poulterer removing the pip from geese ; all these and many more evidences of Egyp- tian priority now require but a glance at the plates of Rosellini." To this catalogue of Eg}-ptian arts, a long addition might be made of mon- uments descriptive of the goldsmith's and jeweller's work ; instrumental music, singing, dancing, and gymnastic exercises, including children's games, like some of the present day ; the tasteful furniture of their houses ; ship building ; drawings in natural history, so true to life, that the French naturalists, by means of them, instantly recognized the several species of Eg>-ptian birds designated by them; and of numberless other branches of art In Persia also, much ethnographic information has lately been brought to light by the architects and artists attached to the French embassy in that country. Their operations embrace ruins of the ancient cities of Nineveh, Babylon, Ecbatana, Persepolis, Ctesiphon, &c. These researches in connec- tion witti the labours of Groteford and Lassen, who have deciphered the ar- row-headed inscriptions of those cities, are of great importance in elucidating a portion of the world's historj'^, of which we know so little. The French government has lately sent a party to explore the regions between Casbmere and Kafferistan. with orders to report on the Geography of those cotm tries — the various native tribes by which they are occupied, their languages, monu- ments, &c. In Asia Minor a new field for antiquarian researches has been opened. which bids fair to throw much light on the history of several nations, and par- ticularly the Greeks, at a period, the historj' of which we know but little. The researches of the English have chiefly been in ancient Lycia. where in two different expeditions, Mr. Fellows has made some important discoveries of cities, remains of temples, inscriptions, dec He has also been able to make out the language of the people who erected these edifices, through bilinqular inscriptions found there. He is now on his way there again, w^ith a large company and a steamer, for the purpose of transporting to England such INTRODUCTION. O never again be introduced, unless a knowledge of the processes em- ployed in tlieir production were preserved. AVhen such knowledge is only transmitted verbally, and when it is confined to operative monuments of art as are valuable and in good preservation. The French and Prussian governments have scientific expeditions besides, in other parts of Asia Minor. In Abyssinia are travellers from England, France, and Germany, who are engaged in scientific explorations of the country. Their labours will contri- bute greatly to our knowledge of that hitherto unknown region. On the cite of ancient Carthage and in the country adjacent, some interesting discoveriea have been made. Among these the following articles have been found: 1st. A complete power loom of bronze^ of vertical construction, adapted to weave sLvteen webs of cloth at one and the same operation, either plain, tweeled, or figured, and with from one to thirty-seven shuttles, &c. 2d. A loom for weaving dimity and such stuffs, with tappet wheel to work the treadles, and a curious motion to stop the machine when the weft thread or threads break. This last contrivance consists of two parts, one of which is very like an ' Irish gridiron,' and is fixed in the lay in a vertical position, about three-fourths of an inch from one end of tlie reed ; the other part resem- bles a French four-pronged eating fork, and is made to play into the former at each, and every throw of the shuttle. But as this motion (with several other valuable contrivances in weaving) was patented by us in England, France, and other countries in the years 1833, 34 and 39, the claims of the said hierologists to the contrary thereof notwithstanding^ no farther notice need be taken of it here ; and particularly so, as it is now being adapted to common power looms at Paterson, N. J., Troy, N. Y., and at Lowell, Mass., where the curious may see it in full operation, and be better able to judge of its merits for themselves. 3d. A spinning machine with two hundred and fifty-six spindles, copper drums, and India rubber bands to drive it ; all of which are in a tolerable state of preservation ; the whole bearing a very close resemblance to the ' Danforth frame.' 4lh. 18^ yards of ' net work ' or lace, figured, similar to that used in the decoration of Solomon's Temple, and of which so frequent mention is made in the book of Exodus. This specimen corresponds in many respects to that shown us by his Holiness, the Pope's antiquarian when at Rome, in April, 1831, and of which we shall have occasion to make further mention hereafter. 5th. 13^ yards of beautiful lace, being composed of gold and silver threads alternately, on which are represented the sun, moon, and stars ; the crocodile, pelican, heron, and goose ; and also a man and woman in a state of nudity, eating fruit, which they appear to have plucked from off a tree hard by ; there is also in the same group a likeness of a serpent, very much resembling our modern boa constrictor. 6th. A penknife with 98 blades ; but this does not so much excite our won- der as the others, because we are well aware of the fact, that immense manu- factories of penknives were carried on in ancient Babylon, and other cities of the land of Shinar, long before the Jewish dispensation ; see also the 36th chap, of Jeremiah and 23d verse. b INTRODUCTION. tradesmen, employed in the active duties of their vocations, little expectation can be formed of its general diffusion. The attention of such men is naturally more directed to their present, than to their former employments ; and when it is no longer in their power to il- lustrate the instructions which they may, occasionally, wish to con- vey to others, by showdng them the practical operation, the task be- comes doubly difficult. From the want of proper information on such subjects a person may possibly think himself the inventor of a certain machine, which he conceives to be legitimately begotten, and may succeed in obtaining, from capitalists, unskilled in the par- ticular art to which it relates, vast sums of money, on the strength of such an impression ; and still a similar machine may have been in use long before, or even is at the present day, without his know- ledge of the fact. Many a man has been deceived in supposing himself the originator of a certain contrivance, which he might have found described in some old book, or L'ishman's portfoho. It ought to be our study to fix permanently upon the memory, some of the extraordinary events that happened in the world thou- sands of years before we had an existence upon it. We find our- selves inhabitants of one of the numberless planets which are ever rolling along through infinite space, at a most astonishing rate of speed. We have no means of knowing at present what beings in- habit, or what laws govern those glorious orbs that on all sides sur- round us, or how far advanced in the arts their inhabitants may have become, and particularly in that of power loom weaving with 9nes7Jieric cams. We have now no communication wnth other worlds, nor with the beings that people them. This earth on which we live is ours (that's a fact) and it affords ample scope for human study. The enquiring mind should be anxious to know, who were the best manufacturers of figured and other fabrics that from time to time flourished on its variegated surface ; what events, changes, and revolvtions it has undergone, and how many Jacquard looms, and other useful machines, invented by our antediluvian relations, have been engulphed in its bowels, or otherwise knocked into chaos. It is only by reading, by searching the records of the past, by deep We confess that we, ourself, are surprised, that a complete power loom of such astoundmg capacity (including one of our own patent motions) as that just mentioned, together Avith a ' Danforth frame,' should be dug up in this way. Such is to us a mystery ! We will henceforth place implicit con- fidence in the words of the wise man, as recorded in the 1st chapter of Eccle- eiastes. INTRODUCTION. 7 mental application, and above all, by bodily exertion, that we can arrive at this profound knowledge ; but, if we can, although only partially obtain some accounts of the arts, and of what has hap- pened connected with them, in ages far remote, it is our duty not to keep them locked up for our own gratification, but to bring them forth for the improvement of our fellow-men, and more particularly for the manufacturing portion of our own community. We are confident that many, and were about to say, the gene- rality, of readers lose more than half the advantage they might otherwise derive, for want of fixing on their minds the dates and periods of time most remarkable in the history of such subjects as the present. " To him who reads with judging eyes, And studies as he should, Philosophy brings large supplies ; His mind improves, his pleasures rise, He cannot but be great and wise." The traveller who visits different countries to view their varied scenery, and, perhaps, to pick up the inventions of ingenious men by the way, would experience but little advantage if, when he entered into a zephyr three ply bed quilt manufactory he stood still, and kept his eye fixed on one object only, for example, such as a double or treble shifting cumber board ; but when he looks around him, views the electric cams, the mercurial shuttle changers, the revolving detached shuttle boxes, with Poole and Fletcher's patent galvanizers, hollow-cone warp dividers, &c., as they perform their respective functions, both separately and collectively ; his eye glistens with gladness and his heart beats with dehght, while he sees that he may handily turn the ingenuity of other men to his own purposes, without even thanking them for it. If our traveller should chance to be one of those prodigies of nature, to whom fate has given some lucky powers of combination and adaptation, he at one view can see the mechanism in all its various phases of operation, and he enjoys the scene with exquisite relish. " Unto the solid beam the warp is tied, While hollow cones the parting threads divide, Through which a thousand shuttles swiftly play, And for the zephyr weft prepare a ready way." (Metam. VI. O^Boorke's Trans.) We shall here notice two objections which have been urged by several European manufacturers against us, in our undertaking to publish the present work. 8 INTRODUCTION. The first of these is, that it is improper to divulge the secrets of any trade, because it may operate to the prejudice of those who practise it. This doctrine is now so justly, and almost universally exploded, that we shall occupy very little room upon it. It will be seen at once, without entering at all into the question of the policy of monopolies, whether preserved by secret or legal restric- tions, that the case does not apply to the business of weaving. It is absurd to suppose that a trade which employs so many millions of people, and which has existed almost since the creation of the world, either is, or can be secret. Besides, experience has suffi- ciently proved, that liberal and unreserved communication between artificers of all descriptions, has always produced good and never evil. Indeed, it is obvious that every man, where this takes place, receives the advantage of the instruction of many, and gives only his own in return. The balance, therefore, must always be in his favour. With these short remarks we shall dismiss this objection. The second objection, though it does not appeal to us to stand upon a more solid foundation than the other, may require a little more consideration. The objection is, that by communicating information upon the art of weaving, a knowledge of that art may be acquired m other countries, consequently the manufactures may become less productive to those engaged in them. Although this proposition were admitted in its fullest extent respecting arts in general, it could have no effect on that of weaving, which has been entirely imported from the East, into Europe, and has received but little improvement in that quarter of the globe. The great antiquity of this art, necessarily involves the earlier ages of its history in considerable obscurity. It ts very evident, however, that none of its branches originated in Europe, or America, the cotton stuffs worn by the aborigines of this country, when discovered by Columbus excepted. According to Melik Cassam Mirza of Tebriz, Persia, the silk manufacture was first practised in China, by Ouang Tippo Ichao,* a native of Tsing Kiang Fou, in the province of Kiang Nau, about the year of the world 1743 ; and from other sources equally authentic, we learn that the cotton had its origin in India, and the shawl and carpet in Persia. * This is undoubtedly the same individual, as appears from the name, to whom Chinese historians give credit for having invented the most powerful of all ancient machines, " the gods' eyes puncher." This machine was of such tremendous pressure as actually to force, with a single clip, a hole of 8^ inches INTRODUCTION. 9 These facts sufficiently prove that we have no pretensions to superior knowledge, or exclusive possession of any secrets or mys- teries connected with the art of weaving. The very names of many fabrics correspond to the places where they were first manu- factured, and the following, for example, are all eastern : Nankeens, Ballasores, Madrasses, Bengals, Lachores, Bungoes, Trebizonds, (a kind of frizzled net) Bagdad lace. Cashmere scarfs, Japan brocades, Pekin brocades, Canton crapes, Turkey gauze, Grecian net, Damask, &c. All these, and many more, including dimity and muslin, are fabrics of eastern manufacture. Cotton stufls, properly so called, are first mentioned as an article of commerce in Arrian's Periplus of the Erythrean sea. He in- forms us that they were imported from India to Aduli, a port on the Red Sea, and he specifies as the principal marts of Hindoostan, where the goods were obtained, Barygaza, Bai'oche, Masalia, and Masuliputani. which was then as it ever since has been, famous for the manufacture of cotton goods. He adds that "the tran- sparent gangetic Sindones " were the most highly valued ; and this superiority of the Bengal muslins continues to the present day. We may remark that the Periplus affords an extraordinary proof of the condition of the arts in India, for the description which Forbes gives of the manufactures of Baroche is very nearly identical with that furnished by Arrian sixteen centuries ago. " The cotton trade at Baroche," he says, " is very considerable, and the manufacture of this valuable plant, from the finest muslin to the coarsest sail- cloth, employs thousands of men, w^omen, and children, in the me- tropolis and adjacent villages. The cotton clearers and spinners, generally reside in the suburbs or poorahs, of Baroche, which are very extensive. The weavers' houses, are mostly near the shade of tamarind and mango trees, under which, at sunrise, they fix their looms, and weave a variety of cotton cloth, with very fine baftas in diameter through a wrought iron plate 1^ inches thick. It appears that the eyeballs of these idols, were generally made of cast iron, ' polished and fur- bished,' and adapted to fit the sockets with the greatest precision. A small hole about the size of a cent, was usually gouged out in the front and cen- tre part of the eyeball, to form the pupil. Into this hole a black stone, or some other substance of the same colour was inserted, and thus kis godship was enabled at a glance to penetrate to the hearts of his worshippers. Every nine gods had a 'greaser,' whose business it was to cleanse off" the rust (which accumulated in damp weather) from the optics of each god ; and this operation was always performed on the fifth day of the new moon each month throughout the year — leap year excepted. 2 10 INTRODUCTION. and muslins. Sural is more famous for its coloured chintzes and piece goods. The Baroche mushns are inferior to those of Bengal and Madras, nor do the painted chintzes of Guzerat, equal those of the Coromandel coast." (Forbes, Oriental Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 222.) We can find no trace of cotton goods imported into Europe before the Fall of the Western Empire ; but they began to be introduced into Constantinople about the sixth century, for they are mentioned in the tariff of import duties issued by the emperor Justinian. In Arabia however, cottons and muslins had come into common use about the time of Mohammed, for they are frequently mentioned in the history of the early khaliphs. The first " mushns " so called from their being woven at El Mosel in Mesopotamia— like the Eng- lish '' cambrics," were not composed of cotton, at least not exclu- sively, for the mushns mentioned by Marco Polo are expressively stated to have been woven of '"' gold and silk." The conquests of the Saracens and their successors, the Turks, extended the use of cottons over a great part of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is a fact (not generally known) that Colmnbus found the aborigines of America clothed in cotton fabrics.* It was long be- lieved by the learned that the ancient Egyptians were acquainted with the manufacture of cotton ; and that the " white works," mentioned by the prophet Isaiah, were composed of this material. Herodotus, in the fifth century before Christ, distinctly asserts that the Indians wore cotton ; " They possess hkewdse," says the same historian, " a kind of plant, which instead of fruit, produces wool, of a finer and better quality than that of sheep ; and of this mate- rial the Indians manufacture their clothing." Nearchus, the ad- mual to whom Alexander entrusted the survey of the Indus, men- tions both the plain cottons, and the figured chintzes of the Indians, and the geographer Strabo, who was cotemporary with the Christian era, records, that in his day, cotton plants were grown, and cotton cloth manufactured, in Susiana, a province at the head of the Per- sian gulf Phny, who lived rather more than half a century after Strabo, is the first writer who mentions the growth of the cotton plant in Egypt ; " The upper part of Egypt," he says, " verging towards Arabia, produces a shrub which some persons call gossy- pium, but a greater number Xylon, and fi-om this the textile fabrics called Xylina are manufactured. It is small and bears a fruit somewhat like a filbert ; a downy wool found in the interior is * See Irving's Life of Columbus, (abridged edition,) pages 63—173, and 219. INTRODUCTION. 11 Spun into thread ; there are no fabrics to be preferred to these for whiteness or softness ; the garments made of this material are far the most acceptable to the Egyptian priests." The same naturahst, mentions the " wool bearing trees" of the island of Tylus in the Persian gulf, and says that they bear a fruit like a gourd, and of the size of a quince {cotonei mali.) " In India," says a learned writer, " women of all castes prepare the cotton thread for the weaver, spinning the thread on a piece of wire, or a very thin rod of polished iron with a ball of clay at one end ; this they turn round with the left hand, and supply the cotton with the right, (hke the ancient inhabitants of Nodville ;) the thread is then wound upon a stick or pole, and sold to the mer- chants or weavers ; for the coarser thread the women make use of a wheel very similar to that of the English spinster, though upon a smaller construction. The mother of a family, in some in- stances, will procure as much as from $1,75 to $2,2.5, a month, by spinning cotton. The tanties or weavers are in six divisions, which have no intercourse with each other, so as to visit or intermarry. They lay the frame of their loom on the ground, and sit with their feet hanging down in a hole cut in the earth. "The coarse cloths worn by the natives are made in almost every village. At the Dhaku factory some years ago, cloths to the value of 80 lacks of rupees were bought by the East India Coinpany in one year ; at Shantee-pooru the purchases in some years amount to 12 or 15 lacks ; at Maldu to nearly the same sum, and at other places from 6 to 12 lacks. Mushns are there made which sell at 100 rupees a piece. At two places in Bengal, Sonar-ga and Vick- num-pooru, muslins are made by a few families so exceedingly fine, that four months are required to w6ave one piece, which sells at from 400 to 500 rupees. When this mushn is laid on the grass, and the dew has fallen upon it, it is no longer discernable. The wool, or rather hair, which grows upon the Bengal sheep is so short and coarse that a warm garment can scarcely be manufactured from it."* " Of the exquisite degree of perfection," says the eloquent histo- riant of British India, " to which the Hindoos have carried the pro- ductions of the loom, it would be idle to offer any description. No modern nation can vie in the delicacy and fineness of its cotton tex- * A View of the History, &c., of the Hindoos, by William Ward, of Se- rampore, third edition, 1820, vol. iii. pp. 125—7. t Forbes. 12 INTRODUCTION. tures with Hindostan. It is observed, at the same time, by intelli- gent travellers, that this is the only art which the original inhabi- tants of that country have carried to any considerable degree of perfection. To the skill of the Hindoo in this branch of industry several causes contributed ; his climate and soil conspired to furnish him with an abundance of the raw materials, and its manufacture is a sedentary employment, in harmony with the dislike of locomo- tion generated by the atmospheric temperature. It requii'es patience, of which he has an inexhaustible fund ; it requires httle bodily exertion, of which he is always exceedingly sparing ; and the finer the tissue the more slender the force which he is caUed upon to apply ; the weak and delicate frame of the Hindoo, moreover, is accompanied with an acuteness of external sense, particularly of touch, which is altogether unrivalled, and the iiexibility of his fingers is equally remarkable ; the hand of the Hindoo, therefore, constitutes an organ adapted to the finest operations of the loom, in a degree which is almost or altogether peculiar to himself." •' A people," says Orme, " born under a sun too sultry to admit the exercises and fatigues necessary to form a robust nation, will, naturally, from the weakness of their bodies (especially if they have few wants) endeavour to obtain their scanty livelihood by the easiest labours ; it is from hence, perhaps, that the manufactures of cloth are so multiplied in Hindostan ; spinning and weaving are the slightest tasks that a man can be set to, (?) and the num- bers that do nothing else in this country are exceedingly great." Let us beg our reader's indulgence for these frequent diversions from the thread of our narrative. He will, perchance, bear them more patiently, if he keeps in mind that they are necessary to our design, that our first aim is to inform, not to amuse, and that in reading, as in every worthy employment, the highest and almost only value of amusement, is to relieve the mind and to prepare it for graver pursuits. If the reader will remember this, we see not what should prevent us from travelling on, quietly and happily together, to the end of our journey. With this fair understanding we resume our narrative where we left it. Bishop Doane, of New Jersey, in a letter to a friend in this city, gives a most interesting account of the remarkable inscriptions found on some ancient monuments near Adon, on the coast of Ha- dramant (Arabia,) and first deciphered by the Rev. C. Forster, of Great Britain. These records, it is said, restore to the world its ear- liest written language, and carry us back to the time of Jacob, and within 500 years of the flood. INTRODUCTION. 13 The inscriptions are in three parts. The longest is of ten lines, engraved on a smooth piece of rock forming one side of the terrace at Hisn Ghorab. Then there are three short lines, found on a small detached rock on the summit of the little hill. There are also two lines found near the inscriptions, lower down the terrace. They all relate to one transaction, an incident in Adite history. The tribe of Ad according to Mr. Sale, were descended from Ad the son of Aws or Uz, the son of Aram, the son of Shem, the son of Noah. The event recorded is the route and entire destruction of the sons of Ac, an Arab tribe, by the Aws or tribe of Ad, whom they invaded. In Mr. Forster's book fac similes are given of the inscription ; the Aditie and the Hamyaritie alphabet ; and a glos- sary containing every word in them, its derivation, and its explana- tion ; with notes of copious illustration upon every point which they involve. The first inscription of ten lines is thus translated : We dwelt, living long luxuriously in the zananas of this spacious mansion ; our con- dition exempt from misfortune and adversity. Rolled in through our channel. The sea, swelling against our castle with angry surge ; our fountains flowed with murmuring fall, above The lofty palms ; whose keepers planted dry dates in our valley date-grounds ; they sowed the arid rice. We hunted the young mountain-goats and the young hares, with gins and snares ; beguiling we drew forth the fishes. We walked with slow, proud gait, in needle-tcorked, many-coloured silk vestments, in whole silks, in grass-green chequered robes .' Over us presided kings, far removed from baseness, and stern chastisers of reprobate and wicked men. They noted down for us according to the doctrine of Heber, Good judgments, written in books to be kept ; and we proclaimed our belief in mira- cles, in the resurrection, in the return into the nostrils of the breath of life. Made an inroad robbers, and would do us violence ; we rode forth, we and our gen- erous youth, with stifi' and sharp-pointed spears ; rushing onward. Proud champions of our families and wives ; fighting vahantly upon coursers with long necks, dun-coloured, iron gray, and bright bay. With out swords still wounding and piercing our adversaries, until charging home, we conquered and crushed this refuse of mankind. The short inscription in three Unes reads thus : With hostile haste, the men of crime We assailed ; onward rushed Our horses, and trampled them under foot. The two line inscription, which is under the long inscription, in the terrace, is as follows : Divided into parts, and inscribed from right to left, and marked with points, this song of triumph, Sarash Dzerahh. Transpierced, and hunted down, and covered their faces with blackness, Aws the Beni Ac. On the subject of these inscriptions, Mr. Forster, in his dedication of his book to the Ajchbisliop of Canterbury, thus remarks : 14 INTRODUCTION. "What Job (who, hving in the opposite quarter of Arabia, amid the sands of the great Northern desert, had no lasting material within reach on which to perpetuate his thoughts,) so earnestly desired, stands here reaUzed." " Oh that my words were now written ! Oh that they were printed in a book ! That (hke the kindred creed of the lost tribe of Ad) they were graven with an iron pen, and lead, in the rock for ever. (For mine is a better and brighter revelation than theirs.) For I know that my Redeemer liveth, and that he shall stand at the latter day upon the earth ; and though, after my skin, worms destroy this body, yet in the flesh shall I see God : whom I shall see for myself, and mine eyes shall behold, and not another." But it is not the antiquity of these monuments, however high, which constitutes their value : it is the precious central truths of revealed religion which they record and which they have handed down from the first ages of the post-diluvian world, that raise them above all price. Viewed in this respect, they strike at the very root of scepticism, and leave not even his own hollow ground beneath the feet of the unbeliever. For, if wdiat the infidel vainly would bring into the question, as originating with Christianity, stands here registered as the primeval faith of mankind, there is an end at once, to the idle sophistry of unbelief."' " The inscription on the rock of Kisn Ghorab. a contemporary witness of the failli of the most ancient of the old Arabians, changes the state of things, placing be5'^ond the cavils of scepticism itself, at once, the fact and the purity of their belief in the scriptural doctrine of the resurrection ; and presenting to the eye this great Gospel truth, (to borrow the lan- guage of Mr. Burke), covered wnth the awful hoar of innumerable ages. " It appears, says his Holiness Pope Alexander VI. that the world was first indebted to one Arkite Ghiden Ghelen, an extremely in- genious artizan of Nodville, for the first regularly manufactured piece of cloth ever produced on the surface of this terrestrial globe ; and although it was akin to what we at this day and generation call matting, and produced by twisting and interlacing leaf stems and fibres together ; yet the workmanship cannot be surpassed by the best manufacturers of Bolting Cloths of the present day." From this it would appear that his holiness had a sample of the cloth actually in his possession. Perhaps sewing the fig leaves as mentioned in the book of Genesis has reference to the same process, " An obvious improvement on the garment of leaves, proceeds his Ho- liness, which w^as suggested by twisting the peel of rushes into fine strings by which means superior textures w^ere produced (See Fig. INTRODUCTION. 15 13 ;) but this improvement was not adopted generally, in the part of the country of which we speak, till after the death of Methuselah. It did not escape the notice of the mat weavers, that theii- work was rendered more flexible and agreeable to the wearer (particularly for under garments,) by the use of a finer fibre, and accordingly we find that numerous trials were actually made, with the fibres of various kinds of plants, such as those of the hemp and flax species." It is curious how the descendants of our first parents obtained the knowledge of spinning flax into thread. We are credibly informed that it was by superjiatural agency. We are indeed told by W. Cooke Taylor of Trinity College, Dublin, that a tradition exists in Ireland, which goes far to prove that spinning was first effectually practised in that country ; but we disregard such testimony, as we have found the true and original story, from which the Irish one is evidently copied. This discovery we have made in the collection of Sir Henry Hunlock, and we think it right to give his version, which is as follows. " There were once an old woman and her daughter who lived at the side of a hill, (not under a hill, as the Hibernian would fain have it) in the midst of a forest, near Nodville. They were very poor, and their only support was obtained from selling the thread which the daughter spun with her spindle and distaff. During the long winter when the roads were so bad that merchants of the sur- rounding nations could not come to purchase the thread. The daughter, who was one of the most lovely creatures on earth, worked without cessation, in order that she might have enough of thread when the spring market came to enable her to purchase a cloak for her mother and a scarlet shawl for herself, in order that they might be properly attired while attending their devotions. (Where these shawls and cloaks were manufactured is a question for hierologists to solve.) "It so happened that the king of that country, whose name was Zannkul K. Euzen, had an only son, who while out one day deer hunting, went astray in the forest of Akiel, and called at the widow's cottage to enquire the way. He was greatly struck with the girl's beauty and not less with the numerous hanks of yarn which lay upon the floor of the cottage, and equally attested her skiU and industry. He asked how it happened that she had col- lected such an immense pile, and the old woman, whose name was Zabozok, replied that her daughter had spun the whole in a week. " In a week !" exclaimed the astonished prince, " if this be true, I 16 INTRODUCTION. have found a ' gal' more worthy of my attachment than any other in the whole country. I will send you a load of flax, and if she has it done by the end of a week. I will, without any other proof of her merit, choose her as my bride ; but if not, I will have you both cut in pieces and thrown to the cormorants and loons, for de- ceiving the son of your sovereign." "On the very next day a long train of camels, laden with flax, stood before the door of the cottage, and the drivers having un- loaded them told the girl that she must spin this quantity in a week, or prepare for death. "When they departed her poor heart was crushed with despair. She, however, was unwilling to reproach her mother, even by a look ; but she went into the forest, and sit- ting down under a tree, began bitterly to bewail her sad fate. AVhile she was thus weeping and lamenting, a decrepit old man came up and enquired the cause of her tears, and in reply she told him the whole story. " Do not weep, daughter," he said, " I will execute every one of the tasks imposed upon you by the prince, provided that you Mdll either give me your eldest son, when he is twelve months and a day old. or that you shall m the intervening time find out my name." She agreed at once to the terms. The old man, by some mysterious agency, conveyed away the flax, and about an hour before the time appointed for the prince's arrival, {which was half i^ast five o'' clock in the Qnorjiing) returned with the finest and best twisted thread that had ever been seen in Nod- ville. The prince, according to his promise, married the girl, and conveyed her with her mother to the palace, which stood upon a beautiful rising piece of ground about \ oi ^ mile from the city, and overlooking it. (This palace must have been a very magnifi- cent building, as it cost rather more than eleven and a quarter talents of gold.) "Every Monday m.orning before sunrise the prince gave out to his beloved the quantity of flax which he expected to be spun dur- ing the week, and every Saturday night the yarn was made ready for him by the mysterious old man. At length the princess became the mother of a beautiful boy, and the thoughts of the bargain she had made almost drove her to distraction. Every efllbrt she made to discover the name of the wonderful spinner utterly failed, and he at every visit reminded her that the time was near when he would have the right to claim her child. "One evening as she sat oppressed with melancholy, her husband, who had just returned from hunting, enquired the cause of her sad- ness, but she was unable to answer him a word. •• Come my love," INTRODUCTION. 17 said he, " do not be cast down, and I will entertain you with an account of a very surprising incident which occurred to me this very day. I lost my way while pursuing a fine stag which ran towards the great rocks beyond the forest. While searching for his lurking place, I thought I heard a human voice, and following the direction of the sound, came to a cave, where I saw an old man, who did not notice my approach, so deeply was he engaged in a strange sort of labour : he was spinning, not as you do with the distaff, but with wheels which flew round as rapidly as lightning, and gave out thread like water falling from a mountain torrent ; and all the while he never ceased singing. My mistress, little she knows my name, Which shan't be forgot, which shan't be forgot, When a prince as heir to the fortune I claim Of Wallotty Trot, Wallotty Trot. I'll come at the end of a year and a day. And take the young prince, my heir, away. With my whack ! she goes ! While nobody knows ; My trusty machine, In this cave unseen : Here is the spot For Wallotty Trot! "The princess made her husband repeat the rhymes several times, until she was sure that she could remember them perfectly, and waited with confidence for the return of the old man. He came at the appointed time, and claimed the child. ' Stop neighbour,' said she, ' there goes another word to that bargain. I have found out your name : It is Wallotty Trot.' ' You have indeed detected my name,' said he, ' and my business on earth is well nigh finished ; but before I depart I am bound to tell you the secrets of my art.' So saying, he went into the forest, and in a few seconds returned with his wheels. He then taught the lady their use, showing her that she could spin a thousand times more with them than she could accomphsh by means of the distaff ; and then vanished ; after which he Avas never again seen in that part of the world. "The prince and princess taught this new branch of industry to their subjects, which so enriched them that all the surrounding nations regarded them with envy and admiration." These wheels are of similar construction to those introduced into Great Britain by Samuel Crompton, which are known by the appellation of the ' hall-in-the-wood' machine. It is unnecessary for us to give drawings and descriptions of them, Mr. Baines of 3 18 INTRODUCTION. Leeds, and Dr. Ure of London, in their histories of the progress of the cotton manufacture in Great Britain, having already done so. After the death of Methuselah, the art of weaving appears to have made considerable advances in many parts of the East, and particularly in China, India, and Persia. The first loom of which there is any authentic record still in existence, is that invented by Arkite Ghiden Ghelen, when a lad of about seventy years of age ; and after having been at great trouble and expense, we have suc- ceeded in procuring a drawing of it, copied from an ancient parch- ment scroll, found among the curiosities of Sesac, founder of the Egyptian dynasty, (who reigned thirty-four years.) But from the dilapidated state of the document, and the draughtsman (Alexis Kersivenus of Alexandria) not being a weaver hunself, we fear it is not in every particular hke the original. This scroll appears (from indorsements on its back) to have been once in the possession of the emperor of China, Tehng Ching Ouang, from whom it de- scended to Chao Kong-hi-hi, his successor. Fis- A. is a representation of the loom, &c., which is of vertical construction, and seems to have been chiefly applied to the manufacture of plaids INTRODUCTION. 19 and chequers ; the patterns of which were most probably suggested by the interlacing of bark or stripes of broad leaved plants. Indeed the modern plaids so obviously represent this origin of their patterns that no one except the most sceptical can for a moment doubt the correctness of this opinion. The process of weaving in this loom must have been very tedious, and of course the fabrics produced would be expensive in the same proportion. The inventor does not appear to have been acquainted with any instrument analogous to the shuttle, for we find from the perusal of ancient records (imperfect as they certainly are) that some weavers drew the weft through the web with their fingers, and others used an implement somewhat like a knitting needle, but having a hook at one end, similar to the crook of a shepherd's staff, which doubtless insinuated the first idea of that most useful instrument. The frame work consists merely of two posts, each 4^- inches in diameter, w^hich are indicated in the figure by the letters BB. Between these posts the yarn and cloth rollers are placed. The cloth roller C, may be seen at the bottom, but the yarn roller at the top is not shown in the drawing, although its proper position is evident enough from the manner in which the warp threads DD, descend. Two persons, the one a male and the other a female, are employed during the operation. The former of these is behind the web, in a standing attitude, and is looking as if provoked at having spoiled some part of his work, which, in all probability, the Avoman in front is adjusting, to pacify the old churl ; perhaps, how- ever, he is calling for more weft. These are only suppositions of ours, and the reader must solve the vision for himself, in all its other phases. We almost forgot to mention that young Teague Ghelen, who is playing on the harp, is only 3^ years of age, and seems, although so young, to possess an uncommon share of musical skill. His in- strument is one of great tone, being far superior to the Irish harp ; and it does not differ materially in its construction from those made by their originator, Tubal cain. In point of symmetry, it is not surpassed even by Tom Moore's No. 1. We would also add, that the various figures composing the border of this drawing, cannot now be explained, at least until we hear from our friend, Lepsius, to whom we have written for some infor- mation respecting them. We subjoin a few spirited verses, from a well known author, in 20 INTRODUCTION. compliment to the inventor of this simple, but ingenious weaving apparatus : '• Great genius of the ancient times ! A loom like thine was well worth leaving ; To thee, what are o\ir feeble rhjTnes ? First master of the art of weaving ! Between two trees thy web was hung. Thy cloth beam nearly touch'd the ground ; While birds, enchanted, sweetly sung, And fruits, delicious, grew around. Thou breath'd the freest air of heaven, The sun, unclouded, gave thee light; No lamp, nor gas to thee was given ; Through day thou work'd, and slept at night .'" {Brien Dhu O' Farrell.) We shall now turn to examine some other kinds of weaving machinery. 6cc., and in doing so our readers ma}" rest assured that our information has been obtained from the most correct sources ; but, at the same time, we do not hold ourself responsible for any errors that may have been made by the respectable historian, Deioces, the first king of the ]Medes, from whom our correspondent (Alexis Kersivenus of Alexandria) copied the specification and drawing which we are about to present. * « * * '• While."' says his Majesty, '• engaged "with state affairs, on the ninth day of the month Adar, in our royal palace at Ecbatana, * * s * * * * ^^^ from the land of Shinar, who caUed liimself Arphaxad. came unto us beg- ging the loan of our royal ears, while he would describe the nature of a wonderful engine of his invention, and which the said aUen pronounced in our hearing to be a creature of surprismg capacity, and likely to add to the welfare of our beloved subjects. We, being at all times disposed to facilitate as much as in us hes, so desirable an object, of our grace and clemency did lend unto the said infidel the use of our royal ears, thereby enabling him to approach within nine cubits and a span of our most high Majesty to explain more clearly to our perfect understanding the peculiarities of the animal. I INSERT FOLDOUT HERE INTRODUCTION. 21 While the barbarian was about to proceed with a description of his mechanical monster, we issued our mighty mandate, caUing upon our trusty scribe and penman, Deog, to appear before us, and to copy down verhaiim the whole of the Oration, as delivered with fear and trembhng in our royal presence, by the said heathen, whom at the same time we commanded to speak slow, that no errors of judgment might be made. We here give in our most ex- cellent History, for the good of our well beloved subjects, the words as recorded. O most noble Deioces ! Great monarch of the Medes, whose laws change not ! Much to be dreaded ! May it please the King's most excellent majesty, I, an humble descendent of our great father Noah, have invented, arranged, and worked, after having expe- rienced sixty-five years of sore toil and anxiety of mind m this vale of tears, a weaving engine to be driven by the power of compressed air, and which, O King, I now beg leave to explain. May it please your Majesty, My invention, with all its combinations, parts and appurtenances, is apphcable, either separately, or conjointly, as the nature of the case may be, to the manufacture of all sorts of cloth, whether plain, tweeled, or figured. The arrangement which I propose to employ, consists in improvements on a weaving apparatus, invented in the days of Haran, the father of our unfortunate brother Lot, who once lived in Ur of the Chaldees, * * * * *, and which loom or contrivance bore the title of ' Ghelen's vertical mat loom.' But it is unnecessary to enter into a description of it, as the looms constructed according to the present improve- ments have such different properties from the said Ghelen's, as to have very little in common therewith, excepting in the circumstance of the cloth, during its formation, extending in a vertical plane. The main object of the present improvements is to enable me to weave four, or more webs at one operation ; and yet my machine contains but one lay, with suitable contrivances for moving it, alter- nately, upwards and downwards. And may it please the King, Figure B, represents a vertical section of the creature, taken transversely through the lay. A, which is placed in a horizontal posi- tion, with two reecjs B B, in it, one extending across the loom at the front, and the other at the back. Each of these reeds is adapt- ed to weave two, or more pieces of cloth, from one of the warps, C C, each of which warps, by means of a division in the centre of its reed, and an extraordinary arrangement of the headles, is divided into 22 INTRODUCTION. two, or more distinct sheds, through which shuttles are to be thrown, leaving a weft thread, or threads (as the case may be) in each of the sheds. And, may it please the King, The warps of these webs, are to be wound upon two rollers D D, placed at the bottom of the loom, and parallel to each other : the threads which proceed from them, are conducted upwards through the headles, which are extended horizontally, then into the reeds B B. The threads so proceeding from each warp roller, are now divided into two, or more series, for weaving distinct pieces of cloth ; and for this purpose, the surface of the dents of each reed, is divided by means of a long narrow ruler, (which is secured across the dents) extending the entire length of the reed, so that the surface which the dents present, is divided into two, or more parallel shuttle races. There are in all four, or more of these races, for the passage of as many shuttles, which are to be thrown (with great precision) by a simultaneous motion, through the several sheds open for their re- ception. The warp threads, as they come from their respective rol- lers, are conducted up through these shuttle races. The headles E E, are tied across the loom from front to back, beneath the reeds, and every headle has two, or more eyes in it, at suitable distances apart, to receive as many threads of warp, one of them belonging to the front warp roller and front reed, and the other to the back set. Each headle operates upon two, or more of the webs, which are to be woven at once ; and by working them, all the warps will be divided, and opened into sheds, at the same instant. The lay, with its reeds, remains stationary, at its lowest descending point, while the shuttles are passing through the sheds ; but, immediately after they have made their exit, it begins to ascend, carrying up with it the weft threads. The sheds are all closed by a suitable action of the headles, while the lay is ascending, and when it reaches its highest position, the reeds knock up all the weft threads between the closed warp. And, may it please the King, The fabric as it is woven is drawn upwards, and wound round the cloth rollers F P, one at the back, and the other at the front of the loom, and corresponding to the warp rollers. The accessaries, and new improvements which are proposed to be applied to vertical air-looms, according to my invention, for the purpose of weaving four, or more webs at once, in the same machine, are as follows. 1st. In order to avoid stopping tlje motion of the loom when one or more of the weft threads break, or become exhausted, a few spare INTRODUCTION. 23 shuttles are to be lodged in suitable receptacles, which are so ar- ranged, that the mere breaking of a weft thread, will cause a change of shuttle instantaneously, (by the substitution of a spare one in its stead.) The method by which I accomplish the opera- tion is this : On a weft thread breaking or becoming exhausted, the corres- ponding shuttle will be jerked out of the lay, into a sluice, made through the back side of the machine, and from thence conducted to the ' catcher,' at the lower end of the weaving room, or at some other convenient place, (as the case may be) where it is refitted with a new cop or quill, put into what is generally designated ' Nahor's air fly,' in which is a cylinder containing a moderate quantity of compressed air. On the shuttle being entered at the top of the fly, (exactly in the same way that bullets are dropped into ' Perkin's steam gun') it descends into the return conductor, where the end of a rod, not unlike the suction-rod of one of your Majesty's garden pumps, is brought to bear against it ; but, that the point of the shuttle may not be injured by the sudden action of the propeller, the latter is hollowed out to fit the end of the shuttle, to about two-thirds of the nib's length, and the shoulder thus formed will prevent any little mishap of that nature, which might otherwise occur. The shuttle being thus made ready, the cop tender (bobbin winder) tips the ' let off',' whereupon that shuttle speeds its way to replace some one of its fellows, that has become exhausted, and thus a uniform system of operation is constantly kept up. And, may it please the King, That if by neglect of the cop tender, the receptacles be not pro- vided with spare shuttles, nevertheless the loom will stop of its own accord : the arrangement by which this is effected is as follows : The shuttle, Fig. C, is provided with a spring dent 1, the end of which, nearest the cop 2, is made heavier than the other, and is kept raised by the tension of the weft thread, when unbroken ; which thread passes over the pin 3, through an opening (or eye) at the end of the detent, and over the studs 4 and 5, then through a hole at the lightest end, passing under the pin 6, and out at the eye 7. Thus, on the breaking or failure of the weft thread, the weightier end of the detent, being no longer upheld, will lie on the bottom of the shuttle elevating the other end, which on entering the box or cell, forces back a projection that protrudes through an openmg in the picker : and this projection on being forced back, 24 INTRODUCTION. acts upon a series of levers, which cause the cells containing this shuttle and its fellows, to move towards the right hand side of the loom, their places being filled by the two adjoining cells, containing spare shuttles. This operation is repeated on the breaking, or failure, of a weft thread, as many times, as there are pairs of spare shuttles provided (say eleven times ;) but, if by the neglect of the tender, in not replenishing the cells with spare shuttles, (as I before stated,) the whole number has been exhausted, and another change is yet required, then, the safety regulator will, by means of a lever, draw out the connecting pins from the lay arms, on the main driving shaft, which pins keep this shaft attached to the working parts of the loom, and as soon as this is accomplished motion will be suspended. 2d. And, may it please the King, The arrangement of the headles or what is called the mounting of the loom, is so contrived as to be suitable for weaving four, or more webs of plain cloth at once ; but it admits of introducing a greater number of headles, than the two which are requisite for plain weaving ; and, in fact, the mechanism by which they are worked [with a slight variation) admits of weaving any kind of tweeled cloth, by means of any convenient number of headles, 3d. And may it please the King, The loom is also provided with substitutes for temples, for the purpose of keeping the webs of cloth properly extended, during the operation of weaving : they are a sort of pincers J J, of which there are four, or more pairs, two, or more, at each side of the loom. Af- ter the shuttles are thrown, while the sheds of the warp are closing, and the lay is moving up towards the cloth, the jaws of all the pin- cers are closed by the wedge-like piece H, attached to the rod I, which moves the lay up and down. This piece H causes the two rollers shown by the dots, to recede from each other, and to close the pincers upon the selvages. The moment the picks of weft are knocked up by the reeds, the lay descends, the pincers advance to- wards each other, and their jaws are again opened, ready to grasp their several selvages as before. 4th. And, may it please the King, The warp rollers DD, are loaded with only small retaining weights, (apphed as in said Ghelen's loom) in order that the friction thereby produced may occasion but a slight resistance to the rota- tion of the rollers, as the warp is drawn off by the gradual forma- tion of the cloth. A ratchet wheel is fixed upon one end of each warp roller, and two clicks are so connected with the machinery, INTRODUCTION. 25 which carries the lay up and down, that as it is rising to knock up the weft, and while the sheds are closing, each of the clicks will be brought into the teeth of the ratchets, and will turn the warp roller round as much as is necessary to wind it back to a suitable tension ; but as the lay descends again, and the warp requires to be opened into sheds, the said clicks are withdrawn by the machinery, from the teeth of the ratchet wheels, leaving them at liberty to yield and give off more warp. Each of the cloth rollers gathers up two or more pieces at once, and consequently it will increase in size faster than said Ghelen's loom, which winds up only one thickness. The mechanism for turning the cloth roller round adapts itself to this circumstance, so as to take up the cloth at the same rate when the rollers have become larger, by the accumulation of cloth around chem, as when they Avere smaller. This is effected by tiie follow- ing means : They are turned by the screws or worms M M, taking into the teeth of the wheels O O : the screws or worms receive their motion from a ratchet wheel N, affixed on the same axis : this ratchet wheel is turned by four clicks, or drivers, attached to a lever, hav- ing an ascending and descending motion. Tliis motion is regulated by a rest that rises from a rod, which is parallel with the roller, and bears upon the cloth wound upon it, so that as the roller increases in diameter, the rest, being raised, will limit the descent of the lever above mentioned, and thus the cloth rollers will be turned with a continually diminished speed. 5th. And, may it please the King, By means of other mechanism for changing shuttles, the webs may have cross stripes, of different colours of weft yarns, or of dif- ferent strength and appearance. For this purpose the several sets of spare shuttles being charged with different kinds of weft, will oc- casion like changes in the web, so as to produce cross stripes, which may, also, be combined with longitudinal stripes of various colours, or strength of warp thread, or threads (as the case may be) suitably arranged in the previous operation of warping ; so that by combin- ing cross and longitudinal stripes, chequered patterns may be pro- duced, which in many respects differ from those made in Ghelen's machine. The shuttle boxes, or receptacles for the reveral shuttles, which contain weft of different colours, have as many cells, situated one over another, as are required for the reception of the several sets of shuttles ; and they are raised or lowered by means of a se- ries of levers, suspended on the axis P, at the top of the loom, the boxes being hung, one from each end of a lever. These levers re- 4 26 INTRODUCTION. ceives thek motion from another series which are operated upon hy a revohing barrel, placed above the cloth rollers, (but not shown in the drawing.) This mechanism raises or lowers the boxes, just as much as is necessary, in order to bring the particular set of shuttles wanted; to a proper level for being propelled through the several sheds. 5th And. may it please the King. The above described mechanism can be readily altered, so as to operate with different orders of succession, thereby producing a great variety of patterns ; and also, with a new plan of mounting the headles. adapted for figure weaving, combined with new figur- ing machinery, the four, or more webs, which are to be woven at once, may have ornamental patterns upon them of the nature of what is termed • fancy weavmg.' Or. in heu of the said figure weaving machinery, I apply a peculiar combination of suitable parts, which receives the diversification of its action, from a pattern board X, which is showni on a large scale, at Fig. D. Upon the flat surface of this board the design is carved m relief, the parts which are to exhibit the sundry colours bemg cut down to different corresponding depths. The pattern-board is now placed in its situa- tion at the upper part of the loom, as shown at X, its carved sur- face being presented beneath the under extremities of a row of needles or small slides S, which stand side by side m vertical posi- tions. These needles, severally, (at certain intervals of time) dur- ing the operation of the loom, are let fall upon the said carved sur- face, and by the inequalities of the rehef, some of them are allowed to drop lower than others. Those which are sustained by the more prominent part;: of the carving, are acted upon b}' a straight edge or wle T, placed horizontally across all the rows ; which straight edge, being taken backward when required to act, comes in contact with certain lateral prominences m the needles, so as to push back all those which are prevented from falling, by carving on the pat- tern-board. Each needle is connected with, or tied to a lever U, which levers are placed transversely over the loom, their back ends bearing upon a fidcrum. One, or more of the headles are suspend- ed from each of these levers, near to the middle of its lengtli ; and all the levers bemg thus placed side by side in a row, at the top of the loom, their front ends form a row across the loom, until some are drawn liack with an endway motion upon their fulcrum, by the straight edge, T, acting upon their correspondmg needles. The front extremities of those levers which are not drawn back, are hfied up l>y the edge of a horizontal hftmg bar AV, which rises INTRODUCTION. 27 upwards, when the sheds of warp are being opened ; and in rising tliey pull up those headles which are connected to them, by which means a proper selection of warp threads, to form the pattern, is ef- fected. By the different depths of carving on the pattern-board X, the needles are thus divided into several series, which are acted upon successively, by the straight edge T, in order to produce a change in the selection of warp threads. The pattern-board is fastened upon a moveable table R, which is shifted either backwards, or for- wards (in a slow progressive manner.) by the pinion Y, taking in- to the rack Z, attached to the under part of the table. This pinion receives its motion from two ratchet wheels fastened on the same axis, and these wheels are turned by drivers. 7th. And, may it please the King, Each time the pattern-board moves, the needles are raised and let fall again, so as to come on a different part of the pattern, by which means another selection is effected. As soon as the pattern board has been conducted along its whole range, and the figure transferred to the cloth, all the needles are lifted up ; whereupon the board returns to its first position, with an instantaneous movement. Should the board have only half the pattern intended to be woven, carved upon it, as soon as that is worked up to its last line or change then, the action is reversed, bringing the needles on the second line of the board, which is now worked backward, with the same speed that it went forward, and thus the other half is produced. Pat- terns consisting of two similar halves, need only half the carving of those described in a former instance. And, may it please the King, Instead of the above, the pattern may be carved on the circum- ference of a cyhnder, which is in all respects the same as those formerly constructed by our relation, Jubal. the organ builder, (see also Genesis, iv. 21.) mounted on a horizontal axis, and turned round with a slow progressive motion. If the pattern is exactly the size of the cyhnder, as soon as the latter has been once passed un- der the needles, it will return to its first position ; but, if only half the pattern covers it, (the other half being a repetition of the first) then, as soon as it has made one revolution, it returns in an oppo- site direction, and so on, alternately. To produce a variation in the succession of the changes of the shuttles, a portion of the carved surface of the pattern-board, or else a distinct pattern-board, must be provided, and carved with al- ternate elevations and depressions, for hfting their several elbow 28 INTRODUCTION. levers, and the levers below, which are connected with stop detents, for detaining them, and determining their positions. The revolving barrel, before mentioned, may also be applied for effecting the rais- ing or lowering of the shuttle boxes, in a proper manner to change the shuttles, and produce cross stripes ; as the position into which the revolving barrel, is turned and detained, previous to ever)^ suc- ceeding pick of weft, determines which of the ditferent colours of weft, shall be thrown. And, may it please the King, The mechanism of the figure weaving loom will be simpler, if the plain or tweeled ground of the cloth is produced by a distinct apparatus. To effect this, those headles which belong to the yarns that are to form the warp of the plain ground, are united to a few lams (thin shafts of wood or iron) so that by drawing up one of these a number of headles may be raised together with one motion. The lams are to be suspended from horizontal levers at the top of the loom, in a similar manner to the levers U, and disposed in the same row. It was before stated that only one or two headles were suspended from each lever ; but, by means of the lams, several may be sus- pended from each of them. These are provided with needles simi- lar to the others, and which might lie actuated by bemg dropped upon a suitable part of the surface of the pattern board ; but, as this would only produce a repetition of a simple series of changes, /pre- fer to siihstitxite instead, a small cylinder or revolving barrel the surface of which is carved into a series of suitable prominences and depressions in order to actuate the needles, in a similar manner to the pattern cylinder before described. And, may it please the King, Whereas, cylindrical barrels, studded with projecting pins, similar to the organ barrels of said Jubal, have been used in different parts of your most gracious Majesty's dominions, for other jmrposes than that to which I joropose to apply them, I, therefore, make no claim to the invention of such barrels, except when the same are apphed to my figure weaving machinery, of the kind before described, "vdth needles and other necessary parts, for weaving four or more webs at once, in the same vertical power loom ; and also when the sur- face of said barrels are carved with different heights and depths, at all parts which are to be represented on the cloth \\\i\\ difference of colouring. I woidd remark also that when small patterns are to be produced upon the cloth. I use, instead of the said machinery, (for working any reasonable number of leaves of headles) a contri- INTRODUCTION. 29 vance or invention, which I call a tappet wheel, formed of a suita- ble number of segment pieces of iron or smooth stone, in the faces of which segment pieces, indented grooves are made or cast, for the purpose, when combined, of producing a zigzag groove round the face of the wheel, to suit any required pattern to be woven in the cloth. In this zigzag groove a roller works, attached to an upright rod, which is connected to the levers or treadles ; and, hence, as the tappet wheel revolves, the treadles are worked up and down, accord- ing to the elevations and depressions formed in the wheel, and the requisite portions of the warp are raised and depressed to form the sheds. The segment pieces are all made to correspond and to fit together in the wheel, so that they may be readily changed, and a different zigzag groove produced when required, according to the sort of cloth to be woven, thereby superseding the necessity of casting or making many wheels, having different shaped grooves, and of shifting them where any variation in the weaving is wanted. The rod which holds the roller that works in the tappet, is connected above to the two outer jacks, as in the ordinary power loom, and acts upon verti- cal rack bars that take into a pinion, which raises and depresses the portions of the warp equally, and thereby prevents any under strain. There are certain vibrating bars connected with the jacks and with the needles, wliich are thrown from side to side by the action of the tappet rod on the racks and pinions ; and these bars have notches in their edges, which are taken hold of by horizontal bars connected to the treadles, for the purpose of moving or holding back certain of the needles, agreeably to the command of the tappet wheel. The rising of the tappet rod, and the rack bar, works a crank that slides the pattern board, and brings the successive lines of the pat- tern under the ends of the levers or needles ; and a spring is intro- duced to ease the action of the pattern frame. And, may it please the King, I also claim the honour of inventing a new arrangement of mechanism, lohich has no connection whatever with any part of my machinery already described, but yet is so essential to the general well-being thereof, that I cannot resist the temptation of explaining it separately, and claiming it in combination with the former (notwithstanding the claims of the said Ghelen.) The leading feature of this improvement consists in the peculiar arrangement and order of working certain parts of looms in gen- eral, so that a new description of cloth shall be produced or woven ; and it is more particularly adapted to that class of silk fabrics called 30 INTRODUCTION. ' Kiang Nau'* satin ; the ordinary quality of which has one face highly finished and glossy, owing to the brilliancy of the warp threads being thrown up on one side or surface, while the reverse or hack side of the cloth presents a dull unsightly appearance, owing to the absence of the warp threads to the vision. Now, by the aid of my improvements, in the arrangement and order of v.orking the loom, and by introducing a double set of warp threads, 1 am enabled to produce a very extraordinary description of goods, both in point of texture and quahty ; the great novelty of which consists in its having a perfect or distinct finished surface on each side of the fabric ; and I am enabled also to present, two entirely different colours of cloth, one upon each side or surface of the piece, without the slightest variation in finish, brilliancy or appearance otherwise, but being, as it were, a double cloth, having two perfect sides or surfaces, and bound or held together, by threads of weft at certain intervals. The manner in which such manufacture is to be effected is entirely dependant upon the peculiar order, or succes- sion of working the treadles, so as to divide or ' shed' the two, or more coloured warps in such a manner that a certain number of threads shall always be ' floating' to cover the weft on each side, and also a proper number of threads, only, shall rise and fall at certain in- tervals, to bind the picks. All this I accomphsh with the aid of the tappets, as already recorded^ the treadles being worked by them in order to open the proper sheds. The warp threads are to be prepared and wound upon a beam as usual ; but in case the cloth is required to have two distinct colours, (that, is, one upon each side or surface) tlien, the uarjys must, of course, he of the colours of the intended satin. I would also remark, that the satin or glossy face may be produced, by the weft instead of the warp ; and this may be effected, simply, by lifting one headle out of every eight, for the upper cloth, to each pick of the weft ; by which means f ths of the weft, will show on the face, mstead of ^ths of the warp, as in the former plan. The under cloth satin face, may be produced by arranging the tappets so as to lift ^ths of the warp, leaving |th part do%vn, and thus ^ths of the weft will be thrown on the under side, as it was above in the upper cloth. And, may it please the King, Having now described the nature of my inventions, or improve- ments in looms worked by the power of air, or any other agent of * Kiang Nan, the name of a Chinese province. INTRODUCTION. 31 nature, which may be hereafter found out, procured, or otherwise brought into existence, for the purpose aheady described, viz., of weaving four, or any other number of webs of cloth at once, in the same engine or verticle power loom, or looms, by simultaneous action of the various parts, combinations, and appurtenances there- of, in the manner, O King ! before described and set forth ; 1st. I desire your Majesty to understand that I do not claim as my invention or inventions, improvement or improvements, combi- nation, or combinations, the whole of said machinery ; as many parts thereof are of the said Ghelen's invention, and in common use ; but what 1 more particularly mean to confine myself to, and that which I wish to be considered the honourable inventor of, while i live in this world, is, first. The reeds BB, for knocking, or pounding up the weft, or wefts of four, or any other number of webs ; such reeds being contained in the same moving frame or lay, or otherwise affixed as the nature of the case may require, and each of them being divided into two, or more separate shuttle races (for weaving half the number of webs,) and the headles dividing the warps, being adapted for open- ing the same into four, or more sheds. 2d. And, may it please the King, I claim as my invention, the mechanism described for changing the shuttles, in a vertical air loom, for weaving four, or any other number of webs at once. When any one, or more weft thread, or threads break, or fail, the said mechanism then substitutes a spare shuttle, or shuttles by an instantaneous movement, without any act of the attendant, and without stopping the loom. I also claim the peculiar method before described, of forcing or pitching the shuttles, as fast as the weft thread, or threads break, or become exhausted, into a sluice, or conductor, cut through the back side of the ma- chine, in the manner and for the purpose set forth. And, more- over, whereas, various contrivances have been before applied in shuttles, so as to cause the loom to cease operation, when the weft thread breaks or fails, I make no claim to the invention of a mo- tion in the shuttle, for the purpose of causing the loom to stop, but only to the mechanism which changes the shuttles for others con- taining weft thread, or threads, and that too without stoppmg the loom. If by any untoward circumstance, the loom should not stop when required, notwithstanding all these precautionary measures, the hnch pins or keys, (as before described) are drawn from the arms which connect the lay to the main driving shaft of the machine ; 32 INTRODUCTION. when this is accomplished, motion luill he effectually suspended. All these arrangements I claim to be of my invention. 3d. And, may it please the King, I claim the improvement, before described, of applying and com- bining, or otherwise arranging four, or any other number of move- able pincers or crabs, for extending, widening or stretching (in breadth) the cloth of four, or more webs, which are to be woven at once, in a vertical, or any other kind of loom, the said Ghelen's vertical mat loom excepted. And, whereas, a kind of pincers, or crabs have been applied to or- dinary looms, (which weave one piece of cloth at a time) for the purpose of holding such cloth, in their claws, jaws, or gums, (as the case may be) to the same width at which the reed leaves it, after having beaten in the weft, such nippers having been invented by Lemuel P. Arybas (a sojourner in the Cities of the Plain) I make no claim to them ; but only to the application of my apparatus to vertical looms, propelled by the power of air, or any other agent, for weaving four, or more webs at once ; nor do I mean to confine myself to these particidars, but will be governed by the nature of the work to be produced. 4th. And, may it please the King, I claim the improvement, before described, of mechanism for changing the shuttle boxes, from one side of the loom to the other, when all the weft in such shuttles as are contained in a recep- tacle, has become exhausted ; and also that of replacing such re- ceptacles, charged with another carriage full of shuttles, containing cops or quills of different colours, or appearances, as the nature of the case may require, for the purpose of producing cross stripes, or chequered patterns of eveiy possible description ; and also, for effecting all changes of colouring, or appearance as are required in figure, or ornamental weaving. 5th. And, may it please the King, I claim the improvement, before described, of the mode of mount- ing the headles, suitably for figure weaving, in a vertical power loom, by which four, or more figured webs of cloth may be Avoven at one and the same operation ; and, lastly, O King ! I claim the improvement, or combination of mechanism, before described, for drawing up the headles, suitably for weaving figured patterns, in a vertical power loom, on a surprising number of webs at once ; which mechanism derives the diversification of its successive actions on the headles, from a carved pattern board, or from carving on the circumference of a revolving cylinder, that carving being a repre- INTRODUCTION. 33 sentation of the required pattern, in relief, with different stages in the heights and depths thereof, at all the parts which are to be woven with different colours, or with other variations in appearance, as may be derived from changing the kinds of weft which are em- ployed ; and I also claim, as of my invention, the tappet wheel contrivance or apparatus, before described, for working any reason- able number of leaves of headles, the claims of the said Ghelen, and of the said Arybas, to the contrary notwithstanding. And, may it please the King, I also claim the honour of inventing the improvement in looms for weaving in the same piece of cloth, two, or more pieces of imi- tation Kiang Nau satin, or fabric having two equally perfect and finished sides or surfaces, either of similar or distinct colours, quali- ties, or materials (as the case may be) the claims of the said Ghelen to the contrary thereof notwithstanding. After hearing the Oration of the said Arphaxad, we ordered him to be rewarded with an annual pension of forty-five shekels of gold, in lawful money of these realms, during the natural period of his existence in this world ; and we commanded a short Document to be drawn out by our scribe, to be regularly signed by the inventor before witnesses (he being a barbarian) and to be afliixed to the de- scription of the monster, as copied word for word by Deog. We condescend to add in our History this document, which is as follows : All these arrangements, improvements, and combinations of mechanism, I claim as of my invention, the claims of the said Arkite Ghiden Ghelen, or of the said Lemuel P. Arybas to the con- trary notwithstanding ; in testimony whereof I hereunto, on this tenth day of the month Adar, set my hand and seal, E. K. ARPHAXAD. Witnesses \ ^^^^ ^^°''' ^- ^- I bRBIL HaZER, J. P. We have received the following letter from our friend at Alex- andria (Egypt,) who furnished us with the foregoing specification and drawing, in answer to one we wrote to that polite gentleman on the 22d January last, and in which we made various enquiries re- specting the several human figures, (fee, represented m the draw- 5 34 INTRODUCTION. ing with Arphaxad's machine, but of which the historian (we re- gret to say) gives no account. Mr. Kersivenus, being well versed in such matters, explains nearly all these important omissions, in the present letter. Alexandria, April 23d, 1843. Dear friend, I received your favour this morning, bearing date 22d. January last, the contents of which I duly note. In the first place, I am happy to hear of the safe arrival at New York, of the drawing of Arphaxad's loom, which I had the pleasure of sending you on the 11th August, 1842, and the procurement of which gave me no small trouble, besides, the immense expense levied by his Highness before I was permitted to copy from the original scroll. But, now that you have received the drawing, which is faithful in every particular, I entertain no fears of your success, well knowing that such an enlightened people as the natives of the United States of America, have the proper spirit to appreciate your exertions to benefit them in their manufactures, by the introduction of this most useful engine amongst them. However, this is no business of mine ; and my object at present is to answer your letter. You enquire the reason why I did not (in my letter of 11th August, 1842,) give you an explanation of the various human figures represented in the drawing along with the machine. Why, my dear friend, the truth is, I forgot to do so ; and I now beg pardon for hav- ing been guilty of so great an omission. In answer to your first enquiry as to what the figure No. 1 is, and for what purpose, he is perched upon the top of the loom, I would state, that it is not a human being, as one might at first sight suppose, but only a part of the mechanism called the alarm loon, for the purpose of giving notice to the weavers, when a weft or warp thread breaks, in case the other motions fail to perform their respec- tive functions, as described by the inventor before king Deioces. The manner in which the loon operates is as follows : — There is an air cistern, or cylinder, placed transversely at the back of the different warps, having 3796 holes of \ inch in diameter pierced in it ; to each one of which holes, a small tube is soldered of sufficient length to reach up to the under extremity of the figure No. 1, passing into that part of the machine on which it is seated, and from thence into his interior. This arrangement being clearly uuderttood, the operation will be obvious after a liLtlc ex- INTRODUCTION. 35 planation. There is a small valve or air latch on the side of each of these tubes or air conductors, just about 2^ inches from the cy- linder. To each of these latches, the end of a small cord or wire chain is made fast, the other end having an eyelet hole in it, to ad- mit a warp thread to pass freely through it. This done, the next thing is to attach a small lead of about 2 ounces in weight, and 5\ inches in length, midway between the valve on the side of the air tube and the warp thread. As soon as a thread breaks, its cord, is of course, disengaged, when its weight is allowed to drop through a small hole in a plate, which serves to guide all the weights, and by its descending force, depresses one end of a lever which acts upon the safety valve, (corresponding to the thread,) and by this means a sufficient quantity of air is allowed to escape from the general reser- voir, which instantly rushes into the figure No. 1 ; whereupon that figure, by the aid of a very ingenious piece of mechanism in its in- side, elevates the trumpet, and gives a shrill blast, loud enough to be heard all over the factory. — A similar method is employed with the weft threads, but this I shall explain to you in another letter, as soon as I hear from our friends, Dr. Lepsius, and Mr. Taylor of Dublin, to whom I have written on the subject. Slrould more than one thread break at a time, the mechanism of the figure No. 1, adapts itself to that incident, by giving a corresponding notice ; should any serious accident occur, such, for instance as any of the workmen who are occupied inside of the machine falling through the rio-o-ing, by reason of having made a mis-step, then, the alarm loon blows five times in rapid succession ; and in case of two hands falling over-board at the same instant, as is represented in the draw- ing, the trumpeter blows eleven times, lifts his reserve foot, kicking off his ring hat, under which all the tubes from the safety-valves in the main cylinder fit, whereupon the whole of the air escapes through the lid in the crown of the loon's head, and thus the loom is effectually stopped until new hands are provided. I am credibly informed by his Highness, that iii no instance do any of the poor fellows survive a fall from the engine, and, indeed, it is an astonishing fact, that life almost invariably becomes extinct before they reach the ground at all. It appears from the original records in the possession of his Highness, and from what I, myself, could decipher from other documents, in regard to the rise and pro- gress of this desperately complex machine, that out of every 76 persons who met a horrid death through its instrumentality, 65 were apprentices (or green hands.) There is not the shadow of a doubt on my mind, however, that 36 INTRODUCTION. you \vill in the course of a short time, so improve the internal ar- rangements of the eng-ine. as to lessen the number of these dread- ful accidents, if not altogether to prevent such occurrences from taking place in fiiture. Iti a country like yours, where one 77ian^s life is just as valuable as any ot/ier mans, this is a matter which re- quires your serious consideration, and all the ingenuity vou possess. You a^k the reason why so many workmen lose their lives in this business, but I confess my inabiUty to give you any very definite reply to such a question, not ha\-iiig sufficiently weighed the subject, as yet. in all its bearings. However, my present impression is, that the principal cause of these misfortunes may be ascribed to the cir- cumstance, that the mechanism is so extensive inside as to mono- polize nearly all the footing or standing place ; and as some parts of the machmery require to be operated by the hand, and others by power, it often occurs that the workman, from inattention, or want of experience, fails in perfoniiing his part of the work within the necessary time, and the section on which he stands is the next to be operated upon by the air cylinder, and should he not shift his position before it begins to open its jaws, he is at once let tlu-ough the slide, receiving at the moment of his exit, a knock from a revolving guard or automaton figure, which is placed under the platform of the main pattern-board levers, for the purpose of clearing awa}- obstiiictions, such as dead bodies, (fcc. ; and as this knock or kick is commonly given on the crown of the head, life, in most cases, becomes extinct instantly. Now. my dear sir. could you do away with the manual labour, by the substitution of power : or could you make such alterations, that the men would have a sure standing place to work upon ; I say, could you make either of these improvements, I am of opinion, and so is his Highness, that you would confer a lasting benefit on mankind, at least on those who are called weavers. You desire me to explain the meaning of the figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. as you say you are not much skilled in the science of hiero- glyphics. You will; no doubt, have observed that they are all fe- male musicians. Each of thefn wears on her cap the symbol of her rank in the band. Perhaps figure 5 is an exception, however ; as I am not so certain of her grade. At first sight, I took her to be a pawnbroker's wife, from the fact of her wearing three balls to her horns : but she is so curious altogether in appearance, that 1 shall not venture to give any other opinion about her. until I hear from our friend Dr. Lepsius, and I intend writing to him on the subject to-mnrrcrw. As soon as his answer arrixnes. I will srive vou a com- INTRODUCTION. 37 plete explanation of that figure, I will also write by the same post, to W. C. Taylor, L. L. D., as he, doubtless, knows all about it, having- lately turned his attention to these subjects ; and, in the meantime, believe me to be, with permission from his Highness, Your most obedient servant, ALEXIS KERSI VENUS, Civil Engineer, Homeopathic Physician, &c. P. S. My family are all wxll. Cleopatra sends you her love, and three embalmed kisses, together with a vial of frankincense ; and hopes soon to * * * * * ****** ! Had some of our modern inventors seen this loom, with its various appurtenances, it might have saved them many an aching head and broken heart ; and, we have no hesitation in saying, that it would have effectually shown them how far they had been anticipated by an unpretending individual who never even so much as thought it worth while to secure its benefits to himself by " Letters Patent." Although Arphaxad lived in a period of the world in which, it is generally supposed, men knew comparatively little, still, we think that his specification, as delivered by himself before the Median monarch, is scarcely to be equalled by oiu" greatest scheming-inventors and patent agents of the present day ; and we would recommend it as a model to all those aspiring spirits who expect to reach the uppermost step of fame's ladder, or to have a bronze monument (higher than the Colossus at Rhodes) for a head piece to their narrow stripe of territory, after Chaos has spread his dusky pinions around their once ambitious intellects. However, this is none of our business. The arts of spinning, dyeing, and weaving now spread rapidly over various parts of China, Persia, Hindostan, and Egypt, where they made great progress, extending into Palestine, in the earliest ages of the Jewish dispensation. Indeed, we find from the book of Joshua, that flax was very anciently cultivated even in Pales- tine ; for Rahab, the harlot of Jericho, concealed the spies under the stalks of flax which she had laid to dry on the house top. Spinning and weaving v/ere also practised in Idumea, the latter forming the subject of a beautiful allusion in the book of Job : "My days are slighter than the weaver's yarn, They are finished like the breaking of a thread." Job. vii chap, 6 ver. ( Wemyss's Trans.) 38 INTRODUCTION. There is the same image in Hezekiah's complaint, a passage by the way, which has sadly perplexed commentators, but is at once explained by the custom of the weavers cutting away the thrums, by which the piece is fastened to the yarn roUer in the loom, when his work is completed : My liie is cut off as bj' the weaver ; He will sever me from the loom ; In the course of the day, he will finish my web." Isaiah xxxviii chap. 12 ver. {LoicWs Tram.) From the history of Samson, it is evident that the cidtivation of flax, and the arts of spinning and weavmg. were practised by the Philistines. But, the Hebrews were essentially an agricultural, and pastoral people, equally averse to commerce and manufacturing in- dustry. Solomon exerted himself to reform the national habits ; he estabhshed an emporium at Eziongeber, to open trading com- munications with the eastern seas, while his connexion with the TjTians; enabled him to participate in the commerce of the JMedi- terranean. It appears that he entered into a league with the reigning king of Egypt, to receive hnen yarn at a stipulated price, or fixed dut}-. This early example of a conmiercial treaty for regulating a tariff of intercotirse, is cmiously illustrated b)^ the re- cent discoveries in Egyptian antiquities ; as we find from them, that the Pharoahs had very large spinning establishments, such as we should in the present day call factories of no small magnitude, so that there was not only enough of yarn left for home consump- tion in the valley of the Nile but also for exportation. Had Solo- mon resembled some modern statesmen, he would have protected the spinning industry of Judea by laying a prohibitory duty on the import of foreign yarn ; but Solomon was aware that the protection to Hebrew flax-growers and spinners would so enhance the price of yarn to Hebrew weavers, that they could not bring their goods into a foreign market. He did not establish a monopoly, for he saw very clearly that every monopoly is a great injury to the many for the benefit of the few, and instead of telling his weavers to look exclusively to the home market, he endeavoured to open for them as many foreign markets as possible. But, to retiu-n to our subject, it appears that one of the most valua- ble of Arphaxad"s inventions, was that of his unproved shuttle ; for, as we have aheady stated, that useful implement in weaving, seems to have been entirely unknown to Ghelen ; and, indeed, no great progress could ever have been made without it. Shuttles were INTKODUCTION. 39 made of two soils, one for the fly, the other for the hand-loom, and were pointed at both ends in a similar way to those of the present day, that they might more easily pass through the shed, or sheds of the Avarp, opened for their reception. In spite of all tliis, how- ever, the English have the hardihood to claim the merit of having invented the fly shuttle, for one JoJin Kay of Bury, in the year 1738 ; and even Mr. Taylor of Dublin, shows his depth of learning in weaving chronology, when he reiterates the silly story which prevails upon the subject among the ignorant, in his " Sketch of the Progress of the Cotton and Woollen Manufactures, &.c." It is narrated that Arachne, a woman of Colyphon (daughter of Idmon, a dyer) was so skilful in working tapestry, that she chal- lenged Minerva, the goddess of the art, to a trial of skill. She re- presented in her designs, the amours of Jupiter with Europa, An- tiope, Leda, Asteria, Danae, and Alemene ; and although it is recorded that her performances were masterly, yet she was defeated by Minerva, and hanging herself in despair, was changed into a spider by the goddess. Ovid describes the very ungallant use to which Minerva applied the shuttle, in her contest with Arachne : " A great fly shuttle in her hand she took, And more than once Arachne's forehead struck ; The unhappy maid, impatient of the wrong. Her injured person from the breast beam hung." (O'Doherty^s Tram.) From the delineations existing on Egyptian monuments, weaving was not regarded as a very exhilarating employment : in several instances we can see signs of sadness and melancholy on the coun- tenances of those engaged in the task, reminding us of the sorrow of Penelope : " Full opposite before the folding gate. The pensive mother sits in humble state ; Lowly she sat, and with dejected view, The fleecy threads her wary fingers drew." Odyssey, XVII. But the sombre aspect of persons thus engaged is easily explained when we remember that most of the female spinners and weavers in Egypt, at the time to which we refer, were captives taken in war, fallen from their former high estate, and forced to bear the con- tumely of an imperious mistress. It will be remembered with what bitterness of feelmg Hector forebodes such a fate for his beloved Andromache ; and, indeed, he had good reason to he sorry for his poor ' gal,' if the labour was as hard in actual practice, as it ap- 4U INTRODUCTION. pears to be from the annexed illustration ; which is a correct copy of an original drawing taken from the tomb of Hassian ; and we are indebted to the French Consul at Athens, for his great kindness in procuring it for us. It is shown at Fig. E. Fi2 On comparison with Ghelen's loom, it will be observed that in the present drawing, double the number of hands are eniplo5'ed ; and unless these could produce more than twice the quantity of cloth woven in the former, no saving would be eifected. Perhaps, however, the quality of the fabric was improved by the ' let off' and ' take up' motions, wliich, no doubt, worked very admirably ; more so, we think, than some of those at present in use ; and we would add, might be advantageously employed on many of our modem carpet power looms. The scene presented on the border at the bottom of the above drawing, i^^ the pattern at which the weavers are engaged. It is somewhat indistinct, but so far as we can learn, the subject of it is a retreat from a battle-field. The large quadruped towards the right, is a jackass, and the person who holds it by the tail, is its owner, who appears to be one of the vanquished, and is leaving the scene of action with all possible speed, at the same time doing all in his power to save his ass ; but it stands still, either from natural stubbornness, or from fear of one of the victors, who has got in front, INTRODUCTION. 41 and is endeavouring to catch it, or else to tempt it with a * * * , which he has placed upon a three-legged stool. The man towards the left, who seems to run so fast, is anotlier of the con- querors, and he will, no doubt, soon overtake the ass-driver. He carries, in triumph, upon a pole, the head of some person, whom he has killed in the fight. There is also on the left the figure of a person in a kneeling attitude, who has been taken captive, begging to the leader of the victorious army for his deliverance. The other details which help to compose the design, are merely fragments of the vanquished left on the field, such as coats, pantaloons, vests, hel- mets, legs, arms, (fcc. " Thy woes, Andromache, thy grief I dread, I see thee trembling, weeping, captive led ; In Argive* looms our battles to design, And woes of which so large a pan was thine." (Iliad, vi.) Homer asserts that the ancients were acquainted with the art of weaving figured patterns of the most splendid kind ; and he in- forms us, that Andromache was engaged in producing a rich flowered pattern when she received the melancholy intelligence of the death of Hector : " Far in the close recesses of the dome. Pensive she ply'd the melancholy loom. A gloomy work employ'd her secret hours Confus'dly gay with intermingling flowers." In the contest between Minerva and Arachne, Ovid gives us the following lively description, dwelling not only on the beauty of the figures which the rivals wove, but also on the delicacy of shading, by which the various colours were made to harmonize together : " Then both their mantles button'd to their breast, Their skilful fingers ply with willing haste, And work with pleasure, while ihey cheer the eye With glowing purple of the Tyrian dye : Or justly intermixing shades with light. Their colourings insensibly unite ; As when a shower transpierced with sunny rays, Its mighty arch along the heaven displays ; From whence a thousand diff'rent colours rise, Whose fine transition cheat the clearest eyes ; * Designating what belongs to Argos, the Capital of Argolis in Greece, whose inhabitants were called Argivi. This name however is used by the poets for the Greeks in general. — Pans. Trans. 6 42 INTRODUCTION. So like ihe intermingled shading seems, And only differs in the last extremes. Their threads of gold both artfully dispose, And, as each part in just proportion rose, Some antio fable in their work disclose." The loom was also used as an embroidering frame, the figures or patterns being worked on the web with small shuttles or circles, as the weaving proceeded, but in some instances the embroidering needle was used instead of the shuttles : these needles were not similar to a common shirt needle, as some of our learned doctors would fain have it, but like those used in the manufacture of Gobe- lins tapestry ; of these we shall have occasion to speak more fully hereafter. Vests of ornamental work, woven or embroidered, were favourite p esents from a fond wife to her husband, from a mother to her son, and from a sister to her brother. Surcoats thus ornamented formed no small part of the warrior's pride. A striking allusion is made to their importance in one of the most glowing passages of Deborah's triumphal hymn. " The mother of Sisera looked out at a window and cried through a lattice. Why is his <;hariot so long in coming ? why tarry the wheels of his chariots ? Her wise ladies answered her, Yea, she returned answer to herself. Have they not sped ? have they not divided the spoil ; to every man a damsel or two ; to Sisera a prey of divers colours, a prey of diverse colours of needle-work, of divers colours of needle-work on both sides, meet for the necks of them that take the spoil ?" The repetition of " divers colours," in this passage is a strong proof of the value that was anciently set on this species of orna- mental work. It appears from Exodus, chap. xxv. verse 4, that fabrics of blue, purple, fine linen and goats hair, were manufactured to a great ex- tent in Palestine. We read in Exodus, chap. xxvi. verses 1 and 2, " Moreover, thou shalt make the tabernacle with ten curtains of fine twined hnen, and blue, and purple, and scarlet : with cheru- bims of cunning work shalt thou make them. The length of one curtain shall be eight and twenty cubits, (51 ft. 1 inch,) and the breadth of one curtain four cubits : and every one of the curtains shall have one measure." From this we perceive that the web in the reed, or reeds must have stood about 7 feet 3^ inches, which is wider than any plain linen fabrics we manufacture at the present day. The figures of the cherubims must have been woven with shuttles, and very hkeiy as many as a thousand shades of colour INTRODUCTION. 43 were made use of. Had they been done with the embroidering needle on so very wide a fabric, it would have taken an age at least in its accomplishment. In Exodus, chapter xxviii. verse, 37, we read as follows : " And thou shalt put it on a blue lace, that it may be upon the mitre." See also Exodus, chapter xxxix. verses 21 and 31. From this it is evident that the manufacture of lace was then well understood ; and, indeed, it was so long before, in Egypt, as we shall endeavour to show. We are well aware that in order to manufacture lace, very com- plex contrivances must be employed, for even with the best Notting- ham machinery of our own day twelve distinct motions are neces- sary to complete one mesh. On referring to the 2Sth chapter of Exodus, at the 39th verse, we learn how particular were the directions given to Moses regard- ing the preparation of the sacerdotal robes, to be worn by the high priest : " Thou shalt embroider the coat of fine linen, and thou shalt make the mitre of fine linen, and thou shalt make the girdle of needle-work." The concluding part of this verse shows most decidedly that the principal portion of the fabric was cflfected by machinery (perhaps like our friend Josue Heilmann's, of Mulhau- sen, Alsace, France,) otherwise, why should such particular reference be made to the girdles being of needle-work ? No doubt, Bezaleel, an ingenius artizan of the tribe of Judah, invented luachinery for embroidering those beautiful fabrics very expeditiously : this gentle- man also made great improvements on the barrel, and draw looms, the claims of Morton of Kilmarnock, Cross of Paisley, and Bonnar of Dumfermline to the contrary notwithstanding. Aholiab of the tribe of Dan, one of Bezaleel's particular friends^ made an im- provement on one of his (Bezaleel's) machines, which, according to pope Leo X, was named " ogizigo ;" this improvement, consisted in substituting vertical wires with hooks or hfters, through which Avires, other horizontal ones passed, working through holes in a board, against slips of tin or copper, precisely the same way as in the Jacquard machine. It must be confessed that this is a most remarkable circumstance. These two celebrated workmen (Beza- leel and Aholiab) " were filled with wisdom of heart to work all manner of work of the engraver, and of the cunning workman^ and of the embroiderer in blue, and in purple, in scarlet, and in fine linen, and of the weaver ; even of them that do any work, and of those that devise cunning work." (Exodus, xxxv. 35.) Moses also makes mention of the preparation of gold in threads, to be interwoven with the most precious cloths. " They did beat 44 INTRODrCTION. the gold into thin plates, and cut it into wires, to work it in the blue, and in the purple, and in the scarlet, and in the fine linen, vrith. cunning work."' (Exodus xxxix. 3.) From this pas- sage it is evident that gold thread, or rather wire, was used in weaAing, which thread or wire it also appears, was cut by the aid of a very ingenious contrivance invented by one Zurishaddai, a na- tive of Sidon. We regret that in spite of our endeavours to obtain drawings, or description of this apparatus we have, as yet, been unsuccessful. We also learn the important fact, that in the times to which we refer, cochineal was known, as well as the mordants, to give bril- liancy to the dye ; for cochineal bemg a natural production of the East, it is unreasonable to suppose that its qualities were hidden from the ancients. According to Aristotle, the Chinese made use of it for ages before the Jewish dispensation (Ure^s authority to the contrary notwithstanding.) The cutting of gold into wire, to be woven into cloth, as before observed must have been effected by means of an astonishingly in- genious contrivance, (indeed, it must have been a very shaving machine) because we know from a sample of the cloth which we saw at Rome (in April 1S31) that such wire was nearly as fine as No. 205, of our cotton yarn of the present day. While this curious specimen was being exhibited to us we asked the showman, if it was an identical sample of Bezaleel and Ahohab's manufacture, when, with a sarcastic, sneer which we shall never forget, he pointed to his Holiness' certificate, afiixed to it, remarking, that if heretics wanted any further proofs of its genuineness, they might go to the himself and enquire ! Homer asserts that the delicate gold net made by Vulcan, the meshes of which were so fine that the gods themselves could not see them, was forged by the Lemnian deity on his anvil. But this assertion of Homer must be a visionary one, or else his godship understood the blacksmithing business much better than most of its professors in the nineteenth century. " Stung to the soul, indisrnant through the skies To his black forge vindictive Vulcan flies, Arrived his sinewy arms incessant place The eternal anvil on the massy base, A wondrous net he labours, to betray The wanton lovers as entwin'd they lay, Indissolubly strong ! Then instant bears To his immortal dome the finish'd snares. INTRODUCTION. 45 Above, below, around with art bespread The sure enclosure folds the genial bed. Whose texture e'en the search of gods deceives, Thin as the filmy thread the spider weaves." In the description given by Lucan, of the luxuries with which Cleopatra allured JuUus Caesar, it is asserted, that the Egyptians united embroidery with weaving, in the preparation of their richest, and most expensive fabrics : " In glowing purple rich the coverings lie, Twice had they drunk the noblest Tyrian dye, Others, as Phanan artists, have the skill To mix the party-coloured web at will, With winding trails of various silks were made. Whose branching gold set off the rich brocade." {Pharsalia X.) We find that the finest kinds of Egyptian net or cross work makes a very near approach to the modern lace, (see cross weaving.) Indeed, whatever knowledge we possess of lace-making, in any shape, we are indebted for it to eastern genius, and which we think no one will be foolish enough to question, after consulting the proofs we have already given, or shall yet give in the course of this work. In the prophet's denunciation of Divine vengeance against the land of the Pharoahs, he particularly threatens the flax, net, and lace mamifaclurers : " Moreover, they that work in fine flax, and they that weave net-works shall be confounded." (Isaiah, xix. 9.) The thin upper dresses worn by Egyptian ladies of nohle de- scent, which were so delicate as to be called woven air, appear to have been lace of a very fine mesh, (being only 1-1 6th of an inch in diameter.) Such a dress was by the Hebrews called shehetz, and this word is the term by which Solomon describes the vesture worn by Pharoah's daughter : the 45th Psalm, though it has a secondary and more holy signification, being in its primary and literal sense a hymeneal ode on his marriage with that princess. " The kings daughter is all glorious within ; her clothing is of wrought gold ; she shall be brought unto the king in raiment of needle-work, the virgins, her companions that follow her, shall be brought unto thee." (Psalm xlv. 13, 14.) 46 INTRODUCTION. EGYPTIAN SHEBETZ. ' NET-WORK,' OR ' OPEN-WORK.' TVe have, after three years and five months of unceasing research, at last procured the above extraordmary specimen of net- work or lace, knoAvn to the ancients by the appellation of ' open-work,' and of which mention is so frequently made in the scriptures. Our drawing was made from a piece of cloth 2|- yards in length, by 45|: inches in breadth, which now forms part of the curious collec- tion of his Highness Mehemet Ali, the present vice-roy of Eg^-pt. We are assured by our friend, the British Consul at Cairo, that its genuineness is unquestionable, and as for the faithfulness of our re- presentation, nothing more need be said, than that he copied it himself from the original, and that too upon exactly the same scale. The machinery used in the manufacture of this kind of lace must have been astonishingly complicated, for the threads are so miraculously linked, crossed, and twisted together, that we are really surprised that it could ever have been produced at all. There are two kinds of meshes in this sample, the smaller ones, which we have marked 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, surround one of the large kind, giving it the appearance of a honey comb. This net bears a close resemblance to the Grecian net. but it is on a miniature scale in comparison. In the Grecian, each large mesh is surrounded by ten small ones, so that there is a greater disproportion between the sizes of the meshes than in our specimen. There is httle difference in other respects, however. Through the instrumentality of our old friend, Alexis Kersivenus of Alexandria, we have also received another specimen of Egyp- INTRODUCTION. 47 tiaii net, of an entirely different stamp, and which will be described in the part of this work headed " lace manufacture." The arts which flourished in Eg-ypt previous to the Jewish dispen- sation, and in which the Pharoahs tooiv so lively an interest, would undoubtedly have reached even a higher state of perfection than they did, had they been allowed to continue under such favourable circumstances ; but after the subjugation of the nation by Cambyses, 525 years before our Saviour, the arts and sciences under a foreign yoke, disappeared, or rather ceased to be indigenous in Egypt. The Ptolemies, indeed, encouraged them ; but under their reigns the arts were chiefly controlled by Grecians. The Egyptians had de- generated from the knowledge of their ancestors, whose hierogly- phics, they themselves no longer understood. Among the modern Egyptians, but slight remains or traces of the ancient state of the art of weaving lace, or net-work, are now to be found. The use of shebetz or net- work, for vests and petticoats, enables us to explain a passage in which several modern versions, including the English authorised version, have gone astray, by supposing that " a net" was used metaphorically for entanglement, and consequent pain. In the description which the young Amalekite gave David of the circumstances attending the death of Saul, he stated, " He said unto me again, stand, I pray thee, upon me, and slay me ; for anguish is come upon me, because my life is yet whole in me." (2 Sam. i. 9.) The phrase rendered " anguish is come upon me," literally signifies " this net-work has entangled me," clearly alluding to his coat of mail, which, as we see on the Egyptian monuments, was made of net-work, to the meshes of which, scales of metal about the size of a dollar were attached. This circumstance is sufiicient proof that the hteral interpretation is preferable to the figurative, especially as there is no instance of the word shebetz being used me- taphorically in any other part of the Bible. We shall conclude this part of our subject with Lucan's account of the excellence to which they attained in the preparation of articles of female dress. He thus describes the costume of Cleopatra, when she received Juhus Csesar : " Amidst the braidings of her flowing hair, The spoils of Orient rocks and shells appear: Like midnight stars, ten thousand diamonds deck The comely rising of her graceful neck ; Of wondrous work a thin transparent lawn O'er each soft breast in decency was drawn, 48 INTRODUCTION. Where still by turns the parting threads withdrew, And all the panting bosom rose to view. Her robe, her every part, her air confess The power of female skill exhausted in her dress." {PharsaUa X.) The Egyptians allowed greater privileges and luxuries to their wives than any other ancient nation. Nothing can exceed the splendour of their queens ; thrones were constructed for their pecu- liar use ; even barges, boats, and yawls seem to have been built espe- cially for their service. When we see the magnificence surrounding the Eo-yptian queens, we can scarcely accuse Shakespeare of exag- geration in his description of Cleopatra's voyage down the Cnydus : " The barge she sat in, Uke a burnished throne Burn'd on the water ; the poop was beaten gold ; Purple the sails, and so perfumed, lliat The winds were lovesick with them ; the oars were silver, Which to the tune of flutes kept stroke, and made The water which they beat to follow faster, As amorous of their strokes. For her own person, It beggared all description ; she did he In her paviHon (cloth of gold of tissue) O'er picturing that Venus, where we see The fancy outwork nature : on each side her Stood pretty dimpled boys hke smihng Cupids. With diverse coloured fans, whose wind did seem To glow the delicate cheeks which they did cool. And what they vmdid did. Her gentlewomen hke the Nereides, So many mermaids, tended her i'the eyes, And made their bends adornings : at the helm A seeming mermaid steers ; the silken tackle Swell with the touches of those flower soft hands That yarely* frame the office. From the barge A strange invisible perfume hits the sense Of the adjacent wharfs." Many of the Egyptian painters display considerable talents for caricature in their representations of entertainments. There is one in the British Museum, in which the ladies at a party are depicted discussing the merits of their earrings, and the arrangement of their plaited hair, with an eagerness and rivalry which are highly cha- racteristic. In one or two instances, the ungallant artists have ex- hibited ladies overcome with wine. * Dexterously ; skillfully ; readily. INTRODUCTION. 49 Though Egypt, as we have shown, made rapid strides in the manufacture of many very beautiful kinds of textile fabrics, yet in the time of Joshua, weaving estabhsliments, on a very extensive scale, were found in the land of Shinar, viz., in the chief city of that district, ancient Babylon ; and the machines mostly employed were those invented by B. K. Arphaxad, and which have been al- ready described. " A mantle of Shinar," or as our translators have rendered it, " A Babylonish garment," was secreted by Achan from the spoils of Jericho, and the delinquent speaks of it as the most valuable part of his plunder. Herodotus says, " The Baby- lonians wear a gown of linen flowing down to the feet ; over this an upper woollen garment, and a white tunic covering the whole." Such a dress, particularly if the white tunic were made of woollen, as the venerable historian seems to intimate, must have been too heavy for so warm a climate, particularly m summer, and hence we may be led to suspect that Herodotus included vegetable and ani- mal wool in his description, especially as we know from other authorities, that the cotton manufacture was established in Babylon at a very early period. From the book of Joshua, as already quoted, we learn that the woven stuffs of Babylon were not confined to domestic use, but were exported into foreign countries. The two chief productions of the Babylonian looms were carpets and shawls ; not such as we manufacture in this country, but far superior in design and colour- ing. Carpets, one of the principal objects of luxury in Asia from the remotest ages, were no where so finely woven, and in such rich colours as at Babylon. We know not when the fashion of spreading them on floors was introduced, but the earliest Greek historians speak of them as commonly used for this purpose in the palaces of kings, and the houses of the wealthy. On the Baby- lonian carpets were woven, or depicted, representations of those fabulous animals, the dragon, the griffin, the night-mare in all its varieties, and other unnatural combinations of form, probably originating in India, with which we have become acquainted by the ruins of Persepolis. It was by means of the Babylonian manufactures, that the knowledge of these fanciful and imaginary beings, was conveyed to the western world, and from them they were transferred to the Greek vases. Foreign nations made use of the Babylonian carpets in the decoration of their harems and royal saloons ; but no where was this species of luxury carried to such an excess as amongst the ancient Persians. With them not only the floors, but even beds and sofas in the houses of the nobles, were 7 50 INTRODUCTION. covered with two or three of these carpets ; nay, the oldest of their sacred edifices, the tomb of Cyrus at Pasargada, was ornamented with a pmple carpet of Babylonian workmanship. Sir Gardiner Wilkinson, on the authority of Diodorus Siculus, informs us, that carpets were used in Egypt, where they were spread for the sacred animals, and Homer reckons a carpet among the luxuries, with which Menelaus, who visited Egypt, astonished Telemachus, when he received that Prince in the Palace of Sparta : " The seat of majesty Adraste brings. With art illustrious for the pomp of kings. To spread the pall, beneath the regal chair, Of softest wool, is bright Acclipe's care." (Odyssey, IV.) A small piece of carpet, or rug, has lately been brought from Egypt, and is now in the possession of lady Hamilton of Amster- dam. It is fifty-six and a half inches long, and thirty-six broad ; and is made, like Brussels carpeting, with woollen warp for the face or pile, and linen twine for the back. In the middle is the figure of a fox in scarlet, with a night-owl above it, the hierogly- phic of a ' rogue,' upon an orange ground ; around which is a border composed of blue and purple Unes ; the remainder is a ground of light pink, with violet figures of the pehcan and curlew above and below, and on each side crimson outlines with bright yellow ornaments ; and the outer borders are made up of white, blue, and green hnes about f ths of an inch wide, each line having fancy devices projecting from it, with a triangular summit which extends entirely round the edge of the carpet. Sir Gardiner Wilkinson, also gives us an account of a small carpet rug of Egyptian manufacture, which he says is now in the posses- sion of a Mr. Hays. It does not diflfer very materially from the one just noticed. " This rug,"saysSirG.W.,is eleven inches long, by nine broad. It is made, like many carpets of the present day, with woollen threads on linen strings. In the centre is the figure of a boy in white, with a goose above, the hieroglyphic of a ' child,' upon a green ground ; around which, is a border composed of red and blue hnes ; the rest is a ground of yellow, with four white figures above and below, and on each side are blue outlines with red ornaments ; the outer border being made up of red, white, and blue lines, with a fancy device projecting from it, having a tri- angular summit, which extends round the edge of the rug. Its date is uncertain ; but fiom the child, the combination of the INTRODUCTION. 61 colours, and the ornament of the border, I am inclined to think it really Egyptian." The Babylonian shawls, like those of Persia, were adorned both with gold and variously coloured figures. Hence, Publius Syrus compared a peacock's tail, to a figured Babylonian mantle enriched with gold. Their magnificent appearance, and exquisite texture, are celebrated both by the Greek and Roman writers. It was always deemed to be one of the most singular displays of ascetism in the elder Cato, that he immediately gave away a splendid Babylonian shawl, which some foreign potentate had bequeathed to him, as a remuneration for political services. Next to the carpets and shawls, the Babylonian garments called /Sindo7ies were held in the highest estimation. From the descrip- tions given of them, it would appear that they were in all probability a cotton fabric, though some may have occasionally been made of linen ; for we find from the Levitical law, that linen had some rehgious significance. The most costly Sindones, Avere so highly valued for their fineness of texture, and brilliancy of colour, as to be compared to those of Media, and set apart for royal use ; they were even to be found at the tomb of Cyrus, which was profusely decorated with every species of furniture in use among the Persian monarchs dur- ing their lives. The superiority of the textile fabrics of Babylonia, must be ascribed to their spirit of commercial freedom. We do not find in their history, so long as they remained a commercial and manufacturing people, any proof that they ever imposed restrictions upon the import of the raw material of manufactures, or that which may be called the raw material of operatives, namely, hummi food. When the barbarous Chaldeans conquered the country and intro- duced the spirit of monopoly, the commercial spirit of Babylonia was cankered at the root, and its pre-eminence destroyed. The Tyrians are chiefly knoAvn to us in commercial history for their skill m dyeing ; the Tyrian purple formed one of the most general and principal articles of luxury in antiquity : but dyeing could scarcely have existed without weaving. Homer, for instance, when Hecuba, on the recommendation of the heroic Hector, resolves to make a rich offering to Minerva, describes her as selecting one of Sidonian manufacture as the finest which could be obtained. " The Phrygian queen to her rich wardrobe went Where treasured odours breathed a costly scent ; There lay the vestures of no vulgar art — Sidonian maids embroider'd every part, 52 INTRODUCTION. Whom from soft Sidon j'outliful Paris bore With Helen, touching on tiie Tyrian shore. Here, as the queen revolved witli careful eyes The various textures and the various dyes, She chose a veil that shone superior far, And glow'd refulgent as the morning star." {Iliad, VI.) From the interesting history of his adventures, wliich Eunieus gives to Ulysses, we learn that Phenician women, on account of their skill in weaving, were frequently kidnapped by the pirates of the Levant, and sold m the Greek islands. " Freighted it seems with toys of every sort A ship of Sidon anchor'd in our port ; What time it chanced the palace entertain'd, Skill'd in rich works, a woman of their land ; This nymph, where anchor'd the Phenician train, To wash her robes descending to tlie main, A smooth-tongued sailor won her to his mind, (For love deceives the best of woman kind) A sudden trust from sudden liking grew — She told her name, her race, and all she knew. ' I too,' she cried, ' from glorious Sidon came, My father, Arybas, of wealthy fame ; But snatch'd by pirates from my native place The Taphians sold me to this man's embrace.' " {Odyssey, XV.) Among the ancients, the husband purchased his wife by money or personal services. The Ass3Tians put the marriageable women up at auction, and the price obtained for the more beautiful vras as- signed as a dowry to the more homely. (See Tytler's Ancient His- tory, page IS.) This plan (for anything we see to the contrary,) might work well in this country, even at the present time. Heeren has very ably shown the circimistances which tended to foster and develop the woollen manufactures of TjTe, in his admira- ble " Researches into the Politics and Trade of Ancient Nations."' " The wool of the wilderness," says this able writer," was one of the wares supplied by the pastoral tribes, who wandered with their flocks, as well over the S^'rian, as over the Arabian deserts.* The fleece of their sheep is the finest known ; it is improved by the heat of the climate, the continual exposure to the open air, and the care that these people bestow upon their flocks, which constitute their ♦ Ezekiel, xxvii, IS— 21. INTRODUCTION. 53 only business, all of which help to render it more precious.* The Arabian sheep, distinguished from the European by their immense tails, were known to Herodotus, who has left us a description of them.t "Arabia likewise possesses two extraordinary breeds of sheep, neither of which is found elsewhere. One of these has long tails, not less than three cubits ; and, were they suffered to drag be- hind them, they w^ould become sore by rubbing against the ground. The shepherds therefore, make small carriages, and fasten them un- der their tails, to each animal one. The other kind of sheep have broad tails, each an ell in width." Herodotus only errs in taking a mere variety for a distinct species ; all the other circumstances he here mentions, are known to modern naturalists and travellers. A moment's reflection upon Tyrian manufactures of woven goods and their dyes, will enable the reader at once to perceive the great importance of this branch of commerce. It converted the very wilderness, so far as they were concerned, into an opulent country, which afforded them the finest and most precious raw materials, for their principal manufactures. This circumstance, too, was a means of cementing and preserving a good understanding between them, and those nomad tribes ; a mat- ter of no inconsiderable importance to the Phenicians, as it was through the nomads, that the rich produce of the southern regions came into then- hands. One great source of the manufacturing prosperity of Tyre was the absence of restrictions on the importation of human food. The twenty-seventh chapter of Ezekiel, which Michaelis justly describes as the most ancient monument of commercial history, informs us that Palestine was the granary of the Phenicians. Their own mountainous territory was but little adapted for agriculture, and they were too wise to force unproductive soils into cultivation by bounties and protective duties ; Palestine, their commercial ally, produced corn in sufficient abundance, to be able to supply them- selves plentifully, with this first necessary of life. This is expressly declared by the prophet : " Judah and the land of Israel, they were thy merchants ; they traded in thy market wheat of Minnith, and Pannag, and honey, and oil, and balm." (Ezekiel, xxvii. 17.) Heeren has very properly called attention to the marked effect of this commercial intercourse, in preserving the harmony of the two * See Michaelis on the Wandering Shepherds, in his Vemiischten Schrif- ten, b. i. s. 6. t Herod, iii. 113. 54 INTRODUCTION. nations ; it is, indeed, a memorable example of freedom of trade, becoming the very bond of peace. The fact that Palestine was the granary of the Phenicians, ex- plains in the clearest manner, the good understanding, and lasting peace that prevailed between these two nations. It is a striking feature in the Jewish history, that ^\4th all other nations around them, they hved in a state of almost continual warfare ; and that under David and Solomon, they even became conquerors, and sub- dued considerable countries, and yet with their nearest neighbours, the Phenicians, they never engaged in hostihties. But if a sense of their weakness prevented them from attacking these mighty cities, the natural policy of the Phenicians, no less on the other hand, restrained from any hostile attempt on a country from which they drew their subsistence : to which it may be added, that it seems to have been a maxim among them to avoid all wars and forcible extension of their dominion over the continent of Asia. We learn from Ezekiel, that although the Phenicians were manufacturers themselves, they freely imported textile fabrics from other countries. " Fine Imen with broidered work from Egpyt was that which thou spreadest forth to be thy sail ; purple and scarlet from the isles of Elishah, was that which covered thee." (Ezekiel, xxvii. 7.) The Egyptian manufacturers have been aheady men- tioned ; " the isles of Elishah ?'' is a name given to the islands, and southern peninsula of Greece, and this name was for many centuries pei-petuated in that part of the Pelopoimesus called Elis. This passage affords another singular proof, of the freedom of com- merce estabhshed among the Tyrians ; for, though dyeing m pur- ple was one of the staple branches of their national industry, we find them freely importing purple stuffs from the Peloponnesus. Only vague and uncertain traditions or allusions in the ancient poets, give us any information respecting the progress of textile industry in Asia Minor, the Ionian colonies, and the islands of the Egean. Homer, as we have already seen, represents the Trojan ladies as peculiarly devoted to the spindle and loom ; and Theo- critus in his exquisite Eighteenth Idyll, the Epithalamium of Helen, introduces the Trojan ladies celebrating the skill of Helen in weav- ing, as not less worth)^ of praise than her unrivalled charms. '• When winter thus in night no longer lours And spring is usher'd by the blooming hours, The rising morning, with her radiant eyes, Salutes the world, and brightens Eill ihe skies ; INTRODUCTION. 55 So shines fair Helen, by the Graces drest, In face, shape, size, superior to the rest : As corn the fields, as pines the gardens grace, As steeds of Thessaly the chariot race ; So Helen's beauties bright encomiums claim, And beam forth honour on the Spartan name. What nymph can rival Helen at the loom, And make fair art like living nature bloom 1 The blended tints, in sweet proportion join'd, Express the soft ideas of her mind." (Idyll, XVIII.) Both Horace and Virgil have celebrated the fine woollen cloths of Miletus, which were held in high esteem by the Roman ladies. In another Idyll, Theocritus incidentally notices the great superiority in the textile manufacture of the Greeks, who had settled in the eastern countries, over those who had colonized Sicily and Southern Italy : we allude to the very amusing record of the gossip between two Syracusan ladies, who had come to Alexandria for the purpose of witnessing the magnificent shows and solermiities, prepared by Arsinoe, the queen of Ptolemy Phila- delphus, to celebrate the feast of Adonis, revived under her aus- pices. Nothing seems to have excited the wonder of their fair ladies more than the magnificent tapestries which adorned the Greco-Egyptian palace of the Ptolemies, and they express their as- tonishment very naturally after having elbowed their way through the crowd. PRAXINOE. " See how the folks, poor Erinoe, justle ! Push through the crowd, girl !— bustle, bustle 1 Now we're all in. GORGO. Lo ! what rich hangings grace the rooms !— Sure they were wrought in heavenly looms I PRAXINOE. Gracious ! how delicately fine The work ! how noble the design ! How true, how happy is the draught ! The figures seem inform'd with thought — No artist sure the story wove — They're real men,— they live, they move. From these amazing works we find How great, how wise the human mind ! Lo ! stretch'd upon a silver bed, (Scarce has the down his cheeks o'erspread) 56 INTRODUCTION. Adonis lies ! O charming show ! Loved by the sable powers below ! STRANGER. Hist ! your Sicilian prate forbear, Your mouths extend from ear to ear ; Like turtles that for ever moan You stun us with your rustic tone. GORGO. Sure ! we may speak ! What fellow 's this 1 And do you take it, sir, amiss 1 Go, keep Egyptian slaves in awe ; Think not to give Sicilians law." {Idyll, XV.) There is not a little humour in the gossiping, gadabout Syracu- san ladies, thus unceremoniously branding the Greek ladies of Egypt as slaves, because they stayed at home to attend to the la- bours of the spindle and shuttle, instead of running about the streets to see the gorgeous spectacles of the festival, like many worthless Jiirts of our own day. The poet in several other passages, refers to the domestic industry of the Asiatic Greeks, so different from the indolence of the fair Sicilians. The island of Cos very early enjoyed a high reputation for its textile fabrics, and their excellent purple dyes. In the age of Au- gustus they were esteemed the most becoming ornaments to ladies, anxious to direct attention to their charms. Hence Horace, re- proaching Lyce, says, " Not Coan purple, nor the blaze Of jewels, can restore the days, — To thee, those days of glory, Which wafted on the wings of time, E'en from thy birth to beauty's prime Recorded stand in story." {Book IV. Ode XIII.) From the description which Horace gives of the Coan robes in the second satire of his first book, and from the parallel passages in contemporary poets, we learn that the Coan robe had a great degree of transparency, that it was remarkably fine, that it was chiefly worn by women of light character, (nymphs of the pave) that it was usually dyed purple, and sometimes enriched with stripes of gold. It is by some writers supposed to have been made of silk, because, as we learn from Aristotle, silk was at a very early period spun and woven in Cos, and was the chief cause of the high ce- INTRODUCTION. 57 lebrity attained by the manufactures of that island. Hence Tibul- lus promises his mistress, " Since beauty sighs for spoil, for spoil I'll fight! In all my plunder Nemesis shall shine. Yours be the profit ; be the peril mine. To deck your heavenly charms the silkworm dies, Embroidery labours, and the shuttle flies." (Eleg. ii. 6.) In a painting discovered at Pompeii, there is a representation of a lady weaving a tunic of almost perfect transparency, which may probably have been a Coan vest ; but, so far as we are enabled to judge from such imperfect evidence, we should believe it to be a thin muslin. Pliny, however, distinctly asserts, that the Coan dresses were made of silk. " The Grecian women," he says, " un- ravel the silks imported from Asia, and then weave them anew, whence that fine tissue, of which frequent mention is made in the Roman poets under the name of Coan vests^ Salmasius has shown, that Pliny in this case misunderstood the passage of Aris-* totle's Natural History, to which he referred. The Greek means nothing more than " females wind off the web of the silk worm, and then weave the threads," not as Pliny would interpret it, " unravel the texture of the dress and then weave it over again." The practice of weaving in the island of Scycos, is proved by the description which the poets have given of the occupations of Achil- les, when concealed there in a female dress. This tale is prettily told by Moschus : — ■ " In close disguise his life Achilles led Among the daughters of king Lycomed : Instead of arms the hero learn'd to cull The snowy fleece, and weave the twisted wool. Like theirs, his cheeks a rosy bloom display'd ; Like them, he seem'd a fair and lovely maid ; As soft his air, as delicate his tread ; Like them, he cover'd with a veil his head." {Idyll, VII.) It is obvious that with such a piece of mechanism as Arphaxad's vertical loom, and the use of several colours, splendid patterns could be produced. Those fabrics " of many colours" were highly valued as dresses in patriarchal ages, and, indeed, have always been re- garded in the East as symbols of rank and distinction. Hence we may explain the cause of jealousy to which Joseph was exposed when Jacob presented him with a dress superior to those worn by 8 58 INTRODUCTION. his brethren. According to Pope Leo X, this dress was woven by Arphaxad's power loom, in the city of iSinevah. Tlie sacred liis- torian relates, " Now Israel loved Joseph more than all his children, because he was the son of his old age : and he made him a coat of many colours. And when his brethren saw. that their father loved him more than all his brethren, they hated him, and could not speak peaceably unto him."' (Gen. xxxvii. 3, 4.) Their env)^ was excited not only by the superior beauty of his dress, but by his father's having apparently invested him with some special dignity or authority over his brethren, of which the ornamental garment was the outward sign. Even at this day Eastern potentates, when they confer office upon a favourite, present him with a khelat, or dress of honour, as a symbol of the rank to which he has been ele- vated. It appears that the statement made by his Hohness (Leo X.) about Joseph's coat cannot be rehed upon as being correct, as we find it recorded by Basharaboo, a Persian author, that Jacob ob- tained the cloth '• of many colours" from the city of Babylon. Lesbos was also remarkable for the practice of weaving as an important branch of domestic industry. Among the fragments of Sappho, we find part of an ode addressed by the poetess to her mother, as an apology for neglecting the labours of the loom : " Cease, genile mother, cease your sharp reproof, My hands no more can ply the curious woof; While on my mind the flames of Cupid prey. And lovely Phaon steals my soul away." {Prag. IV.) The fable of Hercules and Omphale proves that textile manufac- tures were very early established in Lydia ; they were patronized by the kings of the successive dynasties : and some of the spinning and weaving estabhshments were so extensive as to deserve the name of factories. Lydian and Phrygian dresses were largely im- ported into Italy in the reign of the Cesars ; St. Luke mentions their traffic in purple dyes, in the acts of the Apostles. Attains, one of the petty sovereigns of Asia Minor, is honourably mentioned by Phny as a monarch who zealously exerted himself to promote manufacturing indvistry among his subject* ; he introduced the manufacture of gold tissue into his httle principality of Pergamus wdth so much success, that this species of luxurious cloth retained the name of Attalic to the later ages of the Roman empue. In the western world Carthage appears to have been the principal seat of manufacturing industry, as it unquestionably was of commercial enterprise. Its carpets and shauls were particularly celebrated. INTRODUCTION. 59 and appear to have brought as high a price as those of Lydia. An entire book was written by Polemo " Concerning the shawls of Carthage." But from the time that the fatal ambition of the Bar- cine family changed Carthage from a commercial to a belligerent state, its textile establishments seem to have declined, for only faint traces of their existence can be found in Roman writers. The weaving establishments of the Medes and Persians were very extensive, and Persian carpets had as high a name in ancient times as at the present day. Of the manufactures of India we can convey to our readers no better idea, than by giving Dr. F. Buchanan's description of them, which we copy from his second volume of a manuscript account of Behar and Patna, preserved in the library of the honourable East India Company. " A great deal of the cotton is freed from the seed by the women who spin it, and a part of this is also beaten by the same persons ; but the Dhuniyas, who make a profession of cleaning and beating cotton, separate the seed from some, and beat the greater part. Perhaps one third of them have stock enough to enable them to buy a little cotton, which they clean and then retail ; the remainder work entirely for hire. A man and his wife can make from three to four rupees a month. In country places they are often paid in grain. At Arwal they are allowed 1^ sers of grain for beating one ser of cotton ; and in one day a man beats four sers (45 S. W.) equal to about 4-|- lbs., and of course receives 6f lbs. of grain- Those who have a little capital may make 4 or 5 rupees a month. "In every division I procured an estimate of the proportion of wo- men who spin cotton, of the average quantity of cotton that each spins, and of the value of the thread. Such estimates are hable to numerous objections ; but it is probable when a number of them are taken, that the errors of the one will be nearly corrected by those of the others, so that the average will not be far from the truth. Allowing that the women of an age fit to spin are one-fifth of the popula- tion, the estimates that I procured will give for the whole thus employ- ed 330,426 spinners. Now by far the greater part of these spin only a few hours in the afternoon ; and, upon the average estimate, the whole value of the thread that each spins in the year is worth nearly 711. 2A. 8P., giving for the total annual value 2,367,277 rupees ; and by a similar average calculation, the raw material, at the retail price will amount to 1,286,272 rupees, leaving a profit of 1,081,005 rupees for the spinners, or 3^ rupees for each. But there are many women who spin assiduously, and who have no interruptions from 60 INTRODUCTION. husband or children, and these make much more, especially where the thread is fine ; there being no sort of comparison between the reward allowed for such, and that given to those who spin coarse thread. As the demand, therefore, for fine goods has been for some years constantly diminishing, the women have suffered very much. Another calculation agrees so well with the above that I have httle doubt of the general accuracy of both. An estimate was made in each of the divisions of the number of looms employed, of the quan- tity and value of thread required annually for each, if employed in working at the usual rate, and the most usual kind of goods, and the following is the result : Rupees. Cotton thread required for cotton cloths, ----- 2,229,979 do. for mixed cloths, ----- 101,762 do. for tape, carpets, tent-ropes, &c., - - 37,125 do. for sewing thread, &c., - - . 2,000 2,370,866 "Some thread is both exported and unported. Taking the amount of the statements, the excess of that imported will be worth 30,500 rupees, which could reduce the demand on the thread of this district to about 2,340,356 rupees in place of 2,367,277 rupees, which I have allowed to be spun ; but. at Bhagalpur, it was said that 1,450 rupees worth of thread was there imported from Patna ; and at Puraniya there is imported to the value of 12,000 rupees, of which a half comes probably from the same town, while the merchants here only allowed an export of 3,420 rupees. "The whole thread is spun on the small wheel common in India, and the implements for cleaning and beating the cotton are not different from those that are usual. No rank is considered here as degraded by spinning. "The cotton weavers are numerous. Those of Phatuha are em- ployed in weaving cotton diaper, (khes.) which the natives use as a dress ; but the great demand is for Europeans, who use the manu- facture for table linen. By far the greater proportion of the cotton weavers is employed in making coarse cloths for country use, but a good many make finer goods for exportation. The amount of thread required is 1,771,379 rupees, and the value of the cloth 2,438.621 rupees, leaving a profit of 667.232 rupees, or 2S|^ rupees for each loom. It may be supposed that the finer qualities of goods taken for exportation would diminish the value of the raw material, and increase the total value of the commodity, but that would not appear to be the case. Although the quantity of thread is no doubt INTRODUCTION. 61 less, yet as the reward for spinning the fine is much higher than that for spinning the coarse, the actual vahie is perhaps a httle higher than I have stated, and may reduce the average profit to 28 rupees a year for each loom. Each man on becoming bound (asami) to the Company receives 2 rupees, and engages not to work for any person until he has made as much as the Company requires ; no other advance has ever been made by the commercial residents. The agent orders each man to make a certain number of pieces of such or such goods, and he is paid for each on delivery according to the price stated in the tables. This shows clearly that the sys- tem of advance is totally unnecessary ; but it is here pursued by all the native dealers, as keeping the workmen in a state of depen- dence, little better, if so good, as slavery. "The loom is of the imperfect structure usual in India ; and where starch is used to facilitate the working, it is made from the root called kandri. It must be observed that all the Indian weavers who work for common sale, make the woof of one end of the cloth coarser than that of the other, and attempt to sell it to the unwary by the fine end, although every one almost who deals with them is per- fectly aware of the circumstance, and although in the course of his life any weaver may not ever have an opportunity of gaining by this means. The same desire of illicit gain induces him almost universally to make the pieces somewhat shorter than the regular length. "The coarser goods intended for market sale are always sold as they come from the loom, but those intended for private sale are all bleached, and many of them undergo operations by diflferent classes of tradesmen. It must be observed that in this district the weavers were bound to act as porters for conveying the goods of travellers ; and when any person of rank or authority calls upon the zemindar for such, the weavers are still required to perform this ofl^ice. On some estates they are, on this account, allowed an exemption from ground-rent for their houses ; on others they are taxed at a higher than usual rate. "At Behar, a class of artists called parchahkush is employed to put all the threads in the bleached cloth at equal distances. (See the drawing marked Fig. A, of Arkite Ghiden Ghelen's loom, where this delicate operation is being effected by the female figure in front.) The cloth made there being very thin, the operation of bleaching brings the threads into clusters, leaving many parts almost in holes. These workmen place all the threads at equal distances with a wooden comb. In some other places a needle is used. Many fine 62 INTRODUCTION. pieces of cloth are ornamented at the ends with the flattened gold and silver wire called bad-la. which, as the natives use the pieces entire, looks very showy. It is not woven into the cloth, but put in with a needle. '•In each piece of the muslins of Behar, the pieces of which are two cubits wide, the workmen who perform this operation stitch from 5 to 7 bands of this bad-la, each consisting of 350 wires. The workmen receive 4 anas for the 100 : and a man can daily put m from 50 to 70. Allow that he puts in 60, and works 26 days a-mouth, he will receive about 4 rupees, (3 At) ; and 32.000 cubits of the wire costing one rupee, he has about 3 Fe rupees a- month for profit. "The Chhapagars put gold and silver flowers on fine muslm by a very shnple process. They stamp the cloth in the form wished with common glue, and then apply gold and silver leaf, which ad- heres to the glue, but rubs off where that has not been apphed. Of course this cloth cannot be washed, but is very showy, and used only on high occasions. '•'All the blanket weavers are shepherds."' The progress of weaving in Greece seems to have been slow ; at leEist those fabrics of the finest description, were imported from Asia, durmg the classic ages, at a cheaper rate than they could be pro- duced in Greece. There were, however, several large manufactories for the weav- ing of pallia, a word which might be more properly translated blankets than cloaks. They were indeed, sometunes coloured, but in these cases the wool was dyed in its raw state, and the palls were worn in the very form in which they were taken from the loom. They were rectangular pieces of cloth, and were used indifferently for cloaks by day and for coverlets by night ; we find them also employed as horse-cloths, and even as carpets. Thus in St. Luke's description of Christs triumphant entry into Jerusalem, we read that the disciples " cast their garments upon the colt, and they set Jesus thereon : and as he went, the)' spread their clothes in the way :" (Luke xix. 35, 36.) This was an oriental form of recog- nizing Jesus as king, and it is still observed in many eastern countries, during the royal progresses of their monarchs. The cumbrous paUs were occasionally laid aside when any work was to be done requiring great exertion. Thus we read in the Acts of the Apostles, that those who vrent to stone the Proto-martyr Stephen, " laid down their cloaks at the feet of Saul,"' (Acts, vii. 58.) INTRODUCTION. 63 Thus also Telemachus, when attempting to bend the bow of Ulysses, " His girdle loosed, his glitt'ring sword unbound, And cast his purple mantle on the ground." (Odyssey, XXII.) Sometimes, however, the pall was gathered close round the body, leaving the upper part of the frame naked ; a custom to which the phrase, making "bare the arm," of such frequent occurrence in the Old Testament obviously alludes. In a favourite old hymn we find, "Make bare thine arm, great King of kings. Thine arm alone salvation brings. There were many establishments for the weaving of blankets and palls both in Greece and Italy ; but particularly in Megara, where the manufacture of coarse blankets formed the staple trade of the country. The work was performed by slaves, who wrought in factories, the spinning being usually done by females, and the weaving by males. Several factories of the same kind were estab- lished in Italy, but their productions were chiefly used by the working classes ; persons of superior rank either used dresses imported from the East, or those which were wrought in their own household. We must regard the spinning and weaving of Greece and Italy as a purely domestic manufacture ; indeed, every considerable house, especially in the rural districts, had its spinning and weav- ing rooms, with all the apparatus necessary for the manufacture both of flax and wool. Thus Virgil in his description of rural em- ployments during winter, says, " The wife and husband equally conspire To work by night, and make the winter fire : He sharpens torches in the glimmering room, She shoots the Jlying shuttle tlirough the loom." (Georgia, /.) No doubt the " flying shuttle " here referred to, is the same as that, the invention of which is claimed by the English, for their countryman, one John Kay of Bury. In most of the old Grecian and Roman looms the process of weaving was downwards, and the weft was driven home by an in- strument called a spatha, which 'was similar to a wooden sword. In later times the spatha was superceded by a comb, and this is 64 INTRODUCTION. the instrument now used by the Hindoos. In our looms the process is effected by the reed and batten. The Romans kept their warp yarns parallel by rolling them care- fully on a cylinder, which unwound and gave out yarn as it was wanted ; a process which in modern manufactures is called " beam- ing the web,"' while the iSorthern nations were forced to pass the threads of the warp over a transverse rod or plank, and then divid- ing them into thirt)?^ or forty parcels, to attach a stone or some heavy weight to each parcel, for the purpose of keeping the warp yarns in their perpendicular direction, and allowing free play for the stroke of the spatha. THE ART OF WEAVING. "The art of weaving is exceeding old, As we by king Deioces have been told. 'Tis said that GheUn weaving first began ; Which hath descended since from man to man. The mothers taught their daughters, sires their sons, Thus in a line successively it runs For general profit, and for recreation, From generation unto generation. " Arphaxad was a weaver of great skill ; His four web engines make us wonder still; For they do art, so Uke to nature, frame, As if it were her sister or the same. Flowers, plants, and fishes, beasts, birds, flies, and beee, Hills, dales, plains, pastures, skies, seas, rivers, trees ; There's nothing near at hand, or farthest sought, But with these famous air looms may be wrought. In cloths of Babylon I've often seen Men's figured counterfeits so like have been, That if the party's self had been in place. Yet art would vie with nature for the grace. Moreover, poesies, rare anagrams, Signifique, searching sentences from names, True history, or various pleasant fiction. In sundry colours, mix'd with arts' commision ; In all dimensions, curves, squares, ovals, rounds, Art's life included mthin nature's bounds ; So that art seemeth merely natural, In forming shapes so geometriced." The art of weaving was unknown in Great Britain previous to the Roman Invasion. After the Romans had obtained a footing in that country, they established a woollen manufactory at Win- chester, for clothing their army ; and they also taught the benighted INTRODUCTION. 65 natives the art of weaving, and the culture of flax. The Saxons afterwards introduced several kinds of fabrics for domestic purposes, among which are said to have been knotted counterpanes with net- work borders^ for bed-covers, petticoats, pantalets, &c. In the early- part of the fourteenth century (1327) Nicholas Grattan, Ned O'Neal, Brien Gallagher, and Jack R. Newbury introduced the manufacture of broad cloth, which manufacture was afterwards protected and encouraged by king Edward 3d, and this fabric has ever since been a staple article of export. These inventions and discoveries, together with the improvements in calico printing, the discharging of colours, (particularly of Turkey red, for Bandannas) the application of steam, as a moving power, in weaving plain cloth, and innumerable other mechanical inven- tions, which it would be tedious even to name ; these have, within the last fifty years raised the cotton manufacture to a state of per- fection, which has no parallel in the history of the arts. It will be remembered by the reader, that Mr. Kersivenus, in his letter of 23d April, 1843, (given at page 34,) promised us some fur- ther information relative to the subjects there spoken about : and after some unavoidable delay, this gentleman has at length written another letter to us, of which the following is a correct translation. No doubt his document will be interesting to many weavers and manufacturers in this country. Alexandria, 17th Sept. 1843. Dear Friend : Your letters of 9th July and 15th August came to hand, and their contents I have just been considering with the greatest at- tention. I am happy to hear in the first place, of the safe arrival at the City of New York, of the letter which I had the pleasure of writing you on the 23d of April last. I regret exceedingly not having been able to give you more correct information, on the subject to which you most particularly refer ; but this delay has been altogether oc- casioned by the negligence of Messrs. Lepsius and Taylor, in not answering my letters to them, of 24th April. For the last fortnight my hfe has been a burthen to me, as I have been suffering from a sore disease, which quack doctors generally call delirium tremens. I subjected myself to homeopathic treatment, however, about ten days ago, and am now so far recovered as to be able to keep the children in order, although I cannot yet undertake any professional duties. 9 66 INTRODUCTION. On examiuing various letters and oilier documents, received by this morning's mail, I was extremely delighted to see a communica- tion in the handwriting of our old friend Lepsius, enclosing, also, another from Air. Taylor. These documents, although certainly not so satisfactory as I could wish, contain, nevertheless, various observations relative to Arphaxad's inventions, which may. to some extent, answer your enquiries ; and I shall now submit to you the substance of what they state as briefly as possible. Figure No. 5. in the drawings, puzzles both the Doctor and Mr. T., and they frankly confess, that they neither know what kind of a character she is, nor yet the object for which she is represented at aU. Mr. T.. however, suggests from the implements which she carries, that she is a person perfectly skilled in the arts of spinning and figured weaving. Figure IS'o. 8, is a portrait of the prince of weavers, no less than E. K. Arphaxad himself; but this, I think, you might have seen yourself, without any explanation. The fragments of machinery, and other articles scattered over the draw- ing, according to Lepsius, originally constituted part of the incerior mechanism of the engine ; but have been thrown into their present state of confusion by a dreadful explosion of the principal air cis- tern, killing, instantaneously, two beautiful ladies, who were mere spectators, come to the factor}*, for the purpose of examining some new patterns of shawls, lace, and quilting stuflfs, for their wedding dresses. It is somewhat singular that this frightful catastrophe should have happened on a Sunday ; which circumstance is an- other proof of the bad effects of working on that day. You will perceive in the drawing, the wreck of man}* valuable contrivances used by weavers. Among those may be traced part of Lemuel P. Arybas' nipper or jaw temple. Arphaxad's tappet wheel, fork and grid stop-thread motion, measuring rollers for regu- lating the giving out of yarn from warp beams by means of end- less screws, dx., lace and embroidering machinery of various kinds, cams and cam-wheels, with a variety of spinning apparatus, which, to all appearance, judging from the figures, is at least equal to the best spinning machinery of the present day. From these remains it would seem that Arphaxad's loom was ca- pable of producing various textures at one and tlie same operation. Indeed, Lepsius informs me that Arphaxad constructed a machine for Gengis-Khan. adapted to weave 30 pieces of cloth at once, these pieces varying in width from 2-5 to 7-4 inches, and forming the most beautiful textures and patterns imaginable ; surpassing in splendour of appearance even the most gorgeous tail oi the peacock, and dis- INTRODUCTION. 67 playing a greater variety of colouring than that proud bird can boast of. This machine, although containing so many webs, and working so many shuttles (averaging 30 shuttles to each of the 30 webs, or 900 in all) appears to have cost only 1 shekel of silver per diem for the necessary driving power. The proprietor, therefore, must have realized a handsome profit while the engine was in suc- cessful operation, in as much as it turned off 1200 yards daily, of perfect goods, with the assistance of a mere child to superintend it. The average price at which the cloth was sold per yard, taking one web with another, was about 75^. ; and the cost of the raw material was not over 30 per cent of that sum, the cloth being extremely light, owing to the astonishing fineness of the thread used. The original cost of the machine, however, formed an important item, as it was not less than 140,000/. of your money. Lepsius is unable to say whether this enterprise turned out a good speculation for Gengis-Khan, or not, as he cannot ascertain how long the loom was in operation before it blew up. From these /ac^5 we may take it for granted, that the fragments shown in the drawing did actually form part of the mechanism of the engine represented, previous to the explosion of the air cistern ; the spinning machinery, no doubt, being employed in furnishing the different warps and wefts as required. Whether the thread used was of gold or silver, neither the Doctor or Mr. Taylor is able to say ; but, in my opinion, gold was the material used, to which the necessary endless variety of shades had been previously given by some highly ingenious chemical process. Had the thread not been of gold, the textures could not have been so expensive. The specimen of cloth in possession of his Highness, and of which I spoke to you in a former letter, although 5,331 years old, yet it is beautiful beyond conception — as fresh and perfect as if finish,ed yesterday. This specimen contains 130 shades of colour, and is of pure gold. I shall forward you in a few days 11| inches of it, which I have procured from his Highness at an expense of 90 shekels of gold. The pieces of glass cloth which you had the kindness to send me, are not to be compared to it in richness of colouring and design. Regarding the spinning engine of Wallotty Trot, the Doctor thinks it did not differ materially from that demolished by the ex- plosion, part of which is shown at No. 9. : but whether Trot used rollers, as at No. 10., or flyers, as at No. 11., neither Lepsius nor Taylor can decide. Since writing the above, my son has found another paper, among 68 INTRODUCTION. those brought this morning, from Doctor Lepsius, who has ehcited some further ideas relative to the figures 2, 3. 4, 6, and 7. He says they are mechanical or automaton musicians which were stationed, generally, at the entrance of the manufactory, for the purpose of serenading ladies and gentlemen who came to purchase the splendid productions of Arphaxad's looms. These figures serenaded all good customers, also, when leaving the factory ; but in no case would they play a single note to such as were shabby in purchasing. Each figure was possessed of the necessary mechanism, in its inte- rior, according to its office in the band. The playing of a tune, commonly averaged from 35 to 45 minutes ; and there were 140 tunes, in all, " to the round." Each automaton was furnished with a suitable key, by means of which it icoiind up itself when run down. In regard to stopping the engine on the breaking or failure of a weft thread, no difficulty could have been experienced ; because the fork and grid stop thread motion, (a fragment of which you will perceive in the drawing,) w-ould accomplish that object eflectually. Besides, there are evident traces of other valuable contrivances for the same purpose : but whether these w'ere essential to the per- fect working of this extraordinary loom, or not, is at this moment a mystery beyond my power to solve. His Highness is delighted with the working of your power looms ; he has lately caused them to be set up in his turban factory, and they are now in successful operation. He requests me to convey to you the expression of his sincere regard, in the shape of a beau- * * * * , and shipped this day on board the Royal Tar. I herewith enclose the invoice. I have just learned that our respected friend, Amasis Osirtasen, is no more, having departed this hfe yesterday (Sunday) while in the act of ***** * * » * * * I Hoping the above information will prove satisfactory, I remain, with permission from his Highness, Your most obedient servant. ALEXIS KERSIVENUS, Civil Engineer, Homeopathic Physician, &c. SECTION FIRST. PLAIN WEAVING. WINDING OR SPOOLING. The common custom of spinners is, to reel the yarn into hanks, or skeins of a given length, and in this state, to dehver it for the purpose of being made into cloth. This process does not come within the compass of the present section ; although the arts of spinning and weaving, which form the two great divisions of labour in manufacturing cloth from the raw material, are so intimately blended, that hardly any thing analogous to the one art, is entirely foreign to the other. At present it will be sufficient to consider yarn in the hank state. The first process in Unen and cotton yarn, is boihng in the hank. The fibres of the former, being long and tenacious, require only to be freed from impurities by means of boiluig water, and soap or potash. To the latter a certain proportion of flour is added, to in- crease its firmness. When these operations have been performed, and the yarn has been thoroughly dried, it is wound upon bobbins, commonly called spools. This is done, generally for hand looms, by means of the common bobbin wheel, and swifts or runners, which are so well known that we think it unnecessary to give drawings of them. WARPING. The warping mill forms a cucle, or rather a polygon inscribed within a circle, and the yarn is wound around it in the form of a spiral or screw, by which means a very great length may be pro- duced in a small compass. Warping mills, for hand looms, are constructed of different heights and circumferences, according to the particular species of goods for which they are designed, or the D. H. HILL LIBRARY North Carolina Stato College 70 THE ART OP WEAVING. room which they are to occupy. A plan and elevation of those used in the manufacture of silk, cotton, and other goods will suffi- ciently illustrate the principle of their construction, and these will be found in figs. 3, 4, and 5. Figs. 3 and 5. Fig. 3 is a ground plan and Fig. 4 a profile elevation, and the same letters refer to corresponding parts in both figures. The cir- cumference of a mill is generally five English ells of 45 inches each, and is divided into 20 equal parts of 11^ inches or ^ of an ell to each. The mill is built upon three horizontal frames, one of which is represented at A Fig. 3. The circular piece L is of solid wood with a mortise B in the centre, having a square axis passing through it, in each end of which axis is an iron pivot or journal. The lower pivot works in a socket and the upper in a round hole or bush, the axis being placed perpendicular to the horizon. The mill is turned about by a trundle F, from which motion is commu- nicated to it by a crossed band H, passing around its circumference, as near to the floor as convenient. The arms or radii (20 in num- ber) are dovetailed into grooves in the centre piece L, and their ex- tremities are mortised into the upright standards which form the circumference of the mill, and which beiQg exactly 1]|- inches PLAIN WEAVING. 71 asunder, from centre to centre, divide that circumference into 20 equal parts. The arms are numbered from 1 to 20, and appear very plainly in Fig. 3 ; but the standards at their extremities ap- pear only as sections. Fiff. 4. In Fig. 4 nine of the upright standards are quite visible, and are numbered from 2 to 10. Near the circumference the arms are connected and kept firm by round pieces of wood, as represented in Fig-. 3. E is the heck, as it is usually called. It consists of a number (120, or more,) of steel pins, with a round hole or eye in the upper end of each, through which a thread passes in the process of warp- ing. The pins are placed alternately in two frames, distinct from each other, and either of them may be raised at pleasure. By these means what is called the lease is formed, and it is most essen- tial in every stage of the operation of weaving, as the whole regu- larity of the yarn in the loom depends upon it. Fig. 5 is a front elevation of a part of a heck, for the purpose of showing more dis- tinctly the way of lifting the alternate threads, when required. The steel pins of the heck ought to be very carefully polished for the sake of smoothness, and should be tempered hard, to preserve the eyes from being worn by the friction of the threads passing through them. 72 THE ART OP WEAVING. D is a frame of wood, on the upper part of which are fixed a convenient number of pins, in a perpendicular direction, and at equal distances. Upon each of these is a small pulley of hard wood, which runs freely round. These serve to guide the yarn upon the mill, and also to divide it into portions called half gangs or bouts, which are useful in the subsequent operation of beaming, as will be hereafter described. On the end of the frame D is a square box, through which a perpendicular post C passes, and upon it the whole frame D slides up or down, when the mill is set in motion. This is effected by means of a cord passing over the pulleys NN, Fig. 4, and fixed to the end of the axis of the mill. When the mill is turned one way, the cord winds around the axis and raises the frame D ; when turned the contrary way, the cord unwinds and the frame is lowered. Four small rollers are generally placed in the inside of the box to diminish the friction of the post C. G. Fig. 3, is a horizontal section of the frame for con- taining the bobbins, or as it is commonly called the bajik. Two cross pieces of wood, I and K, pass between the upright standards which form the circumference of the mill ; in each of them are too smooth round pins, on which the leases are formed. Near to the upper lease pins I, is another pin M, and upon this the warp is turned. The cross piece I is fastened to the mill, but that at K is moveable. OPERATION OF WARPING. The number of bobbins which are to form the warp are placed in the firame or bank G, so that the threads may unmnd from the upper part of them ; the threads are then passed successively, through the eyes of the heck E, and the whole being knotted together are fixed to the pin M, upon the mill, (see Fig. 3.) The mill is then turned slowly, until the top lease pins at I, come nearly opposite the heck. The warper then, lifting half of the frame or thread guide, passes the forefinger of his left hand through the space formed "between the threads which are raised and those that remain stationary ; he then sinks the frame which had been lifted, to its former place, and hfts the other. (One half of the threads in the gang or bout passes through each of these guides.) Into the space formed by this he inserts his thumb, and carefully places the yarn upon the two pins at I, the first passing through the interval kept by his fingers, and the second through that kept by his thumb. Every alternate thread is thus crossed and the lease PLAIN WEAVING. 73 is formed. He now divides his yarn into portions, as nearly as pos- sible equal to each other, to form half gangs. These are kept separate by passing along different rollers on the frame D, (see Fig. 3,) until he arrives at the lowest lease pins K. Turning the mill gradually and regularly round, he winds the yarn about it in a spiral, formed by the descent of the frame D, until he has completed a number of revolutions sufficient to produce the length of the web, and then fixes the lower pins at the proper place. Upon these he turns his warp, forming another lease, by passing every division, or half gang of his yarn, alternately, over and under each pin. This lease differs from that formed upon the upper pins only in this respect, that instead of being formed by the crossing of the individual threads, it is produced by crossing the half gangs, and is used, as formerly stated, in order to preserve regularity in the operation of beaming. The lower lease being now formed, the warper turns the mill in a contrary direction until he arrives again at the top, and repeats the former process till he has collected upon the mill the quantity of warp required in the web. As soon as this has been effected, he secures his leases, by tying round one half of the yarn upon each pin, cuts away his threads, and drawing the warp gradually off the mill, links it into a succession of loops called a chain, forms it into a bunch, or ball, and in this state it is delivered to the weaver. In this consists the whole operation of warping. It is an impor- tant part of the duty of a warper to be very careful that any threads which may be broken in the process, be immediately tied, that they may not be crossed over the others. We shall now proceed to the next operation, which is Beaming. BEAMING. When the weaver has received his warp, his first care is to wmd it upon the beam in a proper manner. Having ascertained the number of half gangs, and the breadth of the web, he passes a small shaft through that formed by the first. This gives him the lease for beaming, and keeps the half gangs distinct. An instrument or utensil called a ravel is then to be used. We have not given any figure of this because it differs in nothing from a reed, excepting that the intervals are much wider, and that the upper part may be taken off, for the purpose of putting the half gangs in their respective places. Ravels, like reeds, are of different dimensions, and one proper for 10 74 • THE ART OF WEAVING. the purpose being found, every half gang is to be placed in an in- terval between two of the pins. The upper part or cape^ is then put on and secured, and the operation of winding the warp upon the beam commences. Two persons are employed to hold the ravel which serves to guide the warp, and to spread it regularly upon the beam ; one, or two to hold the chain, or chains of the wai-p, (there is often more than one chain in the web,) at a proper degree of tension, and one, or more to turn the beam. DRAWING OR ENTERING. Two rods are now inserted into the lease formed by the upper pins on the warping mill, and the ends of these rods are tied together, the warp being spread out to its proper breadth. The beam is then suspended, by cords behind the headles, sufficiently elevated to be out of the way of the person who hands in the threads to the weaver, the warp hanging down perpendicularly. The Aveaver opens every headle in succession, and it is the business of the other person to select the threads in their order, and dehver them to be drawn through the open headle, or headles. The succession in which the threads are to be delivered is easily ascertained by the rods, as every thread crosses that next to it. The warp, after pas- sing through the headles, is next drawn through the reed by an in- strument called a reed hook or sley hook, two threads (for plain cloth) being generally taken through every interval. These operations being finished, the cords or 7nounting. which moves the headles, are applied, the reed is placed in the lay, and the warp is divided into small portions, which are tied to a shaft connected by cords to the cloth beam. The weaver then dresses or sizes a portion of his warp and commences the operation of weaving. But before entering into the investigation of this process, it may be proper to devote some attention to the construction of the loom. The most essential working parts of this machine are represented in Figs. 6 and 7. PLAIN WEAVING. 75 Fig. 6 is a ground plan, or rather a horizontal section of a com- mon loom, parts of which are cut away, for the purpose of showing in their proper forms other parts of the loom, warp, and cloth, as they could not be otherwise represented. Fig: 7. 76 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 7, may be considered either as a profile elevation, or as a profile section of the same loom. All the parts in Fig. 7, are represented as they appear to a person standing at one side of the loom, and many parts, concealed or cut away in Fig. 6, are seen very plainly in Fig. 7, whilst many parts which are distinctly seen m Fig. 6, are, of necessity, either partially or totally hid in Fig. 7. Fig. 8. Fig. 8, is a transverse section of the same loom, as viewed from the front : the cloth roll, the lay, and all the other parts in front of PLAIN WEAVING. 77 the headles, are taken away that the mounting contained in the figure may be seen. The lay and reed, which are left out of Fig. 8, are distinctly represented in Fig. 9. In all these figures the same parts of the loom are marked by the same letters, and thus by comparing the figures, every part is shown in the various forms, in which it would appear when viewed above, in front, or at one side. It has been deemed best, totally to omit the side and cross frame work, and to exhibit only the working or moving parts. This has been done for two reasons. First, Because the construction of the frames of looms are very different, and the particular form, is not often essential to the opera- tion, but may be varied according to the fancy either of the weaver or loom maker, The dimensions also vary according to the nature and breadth of the work for which the loom is intended. The strength of the different parts must depend entirely upon the work to be performed ; for it will be obvious, that the quantity of wood necessary to give sufficient strength to the posts and rails of a sail cloth or a sheeting loom would prove a useless encum- brance, and add an unnecessary weight to one designed for weaving light fabrics of silk or muslin. It is sufficient therefore, in constructing the frame work, that care should be taken to make it of strength equivalent to the stress of the work which is to be performed, that the parts should be ac- curately squared, the joints tight and firm, and that the frame should be well fitted to the working parts. If these points are suffi- ciently attained the most simple and least expensive plan of construc- tion must in this, as in all other machinery, prove invariably the best. The second reason for omitting the frame work is, that it would have been difficult to represent the working parts distinctly without many additional drawings, because, in most instances, many things would have been concealed by the intervention of dif- ferent parts of the frame, which will prevent unskillful persons from properly understanding it. The following are the principal working parts of the common loom : A, Fig. 6, the yarn beam, B the rods which keep the threads of the warp in their respective places. The rods pass through the intervals which form the lease, that is to say, a thread passes over the first rod, and under the second : the next passes under the first and over the second, and so on alternately. By this contrivance every thread is kept distinct from that on 78 THE ART OF WEAVING. either side of it, and if broken, its true situation in the warp may be easily and quickly found. This is of such importance that too much care cannot be taken to preserve the accuracy of the lease. The third rod divides the warp into what is usually called dent- fids or split/ids, for two threads pass through the same interval be- twixt the dents of the reed : a close inspection of the lines which represent the threads of the warp in Fig. 6, will serve to illustrate this, for the lines are drawn so as to show the way in which each thread passes between the rods. The third rod is commonly, al- though improperly, called the lease rod, for all the rods are lease ' rods, and the preservation of the lease is the chief cause of using them. C^, the headles through which the warp passes, and which by raismg and sinkmg one half of the warp alternately, form the spaces or sheds to receive the weft. D ' the reed through which also the warp passes, (two threads being drawn through every interval,) and which, moving along with the lay, strikes home the weft to form the cloth, H, the lay, (see Figs. 6 and 9.) mentioned above, vibrating on centres, placed upon the upper rail or cape of the loom. 1 1 are the boxes for receivmg the fly shuttle, and KK the drivers for giv- ing motion to it : LL, the temples for stretching the cloth to a proper breadth, and MM is the cloth beam for receiving the cloth when woven. Below the headles, and attached to them by cords, are two trea- dles NN, (see Fig. 7,) which are moved by the weaver's feet to open the sheds. The shuttle is driven through the shed by a motion communicated by the weaver's right hand, the lay being moved backward and forward by his left. Before proceedmg further, it may be proper to notice, briefly, the different parts of the loom in succession, to explain the nature of their construction, and their apphcation to the purposes for which they are intended. YARN ROLL OR BEAM. In constructing this part of the apparatus particular care should be taken to select wood, perfectly sound, and thoroughly seasoned. Whilst the least moisture remains in the wood no operation performed upon it can be trusted. But it is absolutely necessary that the yam beam of a loom should be, as nearly as possible, both perfectly straight and round. In proportion to any deviation from these, the loom will be defective, and the deficiency will prove injurious in proportion to the fineness of the cloth to be woven. It is therefore of the utmost consequence that the wood should be dry, and the PLAIN WEAVING. 79 iron axles driven into it before tlie beam is turned, and that the turner should be very careful in the execution of this part of the work. Upon this depends, in a great measure, the uniform tightness of the Avarp, and, of course, the beauty of the cloth. It is, besides, of the first consequence to the operative weaver, because, if the beam bends by twisting, one side will be heavier than the other, and op- pose greater resistance to the threads of the warp, which may cause many of them to be broken. This greatly retards the work ; •for every operative weaver will be convinced, that he may throw many picks of weft sooner than he can tie one thread of warp. The warp is kept in a proper degree of tightness by means of a cord U, (see Fig. 7,) rolled two or three times round one end of the yarn beam. One end of this cord is fixed to a lever V. This lever, the end of which only can be seen in Fig. 7, and which does not appear at all in Fig. 6, is parallel to the beam, and directly under the back part of it, so that the cord passing from the lever to the beam, may be in a perpendicular direction. To the other end of the cord, after passing round the beam, is fixed a weight W. A heavier weight X is then hung from the lever V, and as this weight is moved nearer to, or further from the fulcrum of the lever, the tension of the warp will be increased or diminished. This apparatus is called a pace. In heavy fabrics, it is still the custom, in hand-loom weaving, to tighten the warp by means of a stout pin, which is called a bore staff. The yarn beam of looms constructed for heavy work, seldom has ii-on axles, but is merely rounded at each end ; and at the right hand side a number of holes, say six, are bored, and into one of them, one end of the bore staff is inserted, the other being drawn upwards by a cord, until the warp is sufficiently tight. RODS. As mentioned before, the principal use of the rods is to preserve the lease. When any threads of the warp are broken, great care ought to be taken to have them returned into their proper places. When this is neglected, the warp gets into confusion, and great trouble, and loss of time ensue. The rods are made of hard wood, and should be well smoothed, to prevent them from catch mg, or breaking the warp : the two front ones are of a circular form, the third or lease rod is flat, and broader than the others, which is con- venient in the process of dressing the warp, as will be afterwards 80 THE ART OF WEAVING. described. The rods are kept at a uniform distance from the hea- dles,* either by t3dng them together, or by a small cord with a hook at one end, which lays hold of the front rod, and a weight at the other, that hangs over the yarn beam. HEADLES. To weave plain cloth, only two leaves of headles are reall)' ne- cessary, but in fine webs, where many threads are contained in the warp, the number of headles required would be so great, that they would be crowded too much together, wliich would cause unneces-- sary Iriction, and strain the warp. For this reason four leaves are now universally employed, except in very coarse work ; the)" are made of stout smooth twine, composed of 9 strands, and are con- nected together by cords above and below, to which each headle leaf is fastened. They are then stretched on two thin flat shafts of wood. The upper edges of these four shafts are represented in Fig. 6, at C , and the sections or ends of them at 0% Fig. 7, where the front leaves appear raised, and the back ones sunk for opening the shed, through which the shuttle passes. For plain work clasped headles are chiefly used ; a representation of which, upon a large scale, is shown in Fig. 10, Pig. 10. where the headle twine is represented b)' double hnes, for the pur- pose of showing how the upper and lower parts cross each other. The cross hne shows the direction in which every thread of the warp passes through the headle. For many kinds of work, the headles are constructed with eyes, one of these is shown in Fig. 11, * The Irish linen weavers always have the front rod (or rod No. 1.) from 3^ to 4 inches from the back headle; and in plain cotton goods, the distance at which they are kept separate seldom exceeds 5 inches. The grain of the cloth, we know from experience, is better, when the rods are kept about 4 inches from the back headle, than at a greater distance. PLAIN WEAVINCi. 81 which will also explain, by inspection, the way in which the twine is knotted to form the eye. Fig. 11. In Fig. 8, which is an elevated section, as seen from the front, they are distinctly seen, and the construction of the whole is ren- dered very apparent. On the upper side rails of the loom rests the headle bearer S, stretching across the loom. From this two levers Z, are suspended by cords ; from one end of these levers are hung the jacks F, and from each end of these jacks pass the cords which connect them with the upper headle shafts. The cord connecting one end of each jack with the headles, is attached to the first and second leaf, and that connecting the other end, to the third and fourth leaf. Under the headles are two spring stafls Q,, suspended by cords from the under headle shafts. These are connected with the two marches R, which move upon joints, and the marches are again connected with the two treadles, from which the whole motion is derived. The other end of the lever Z is connected by a small cord with the under headle shafts, and this end rests in a small notch, fixed to the side frame of the loom. When the headles are to be pushed back, the levers are relieved from the notches ; the weaver then presses down the upper shafts, by means of the small cords, the under shafts are at the same time raised, and thus the headles are slackened to ease the warp. When headles with eyes are used, this apparatus is unnecessary, and the jacks may at once be hung from the headle bearer S, as in Fig. 7. Another way of easing the headles is now most generally practised ; the lower links, or doups, are lifted by small rods, and the headles are pushed back by mov- ing the lay. In drawing the warp through the headles, the first thread is taken through the fourth or back leaf, the second through the second, the third through the third, and the fourth through the front. When it becomes necessary in the after process, occasionally, to draw out the rods, their places may be recovered in the following manner : 11 S2 THE ART OF WEAYIXG. By raising the third and fourth leaves and sinking the first and second, the place of the second rod is given ; and by reversing this, we find that of the first. By raising the first and third leaves and sinking the second and fourth, we obtain the place of the lease rod. LAY AND REED. Fig. 9 is an elevation of the lay and reed, taken from the front, and exhibits very plainly those parts which are either concealed, or imperfectly seen in the plan and profile. Figs. 6 and 7. The parts of the lay are as follow : H is the sole or shell of the lay, in which there is a groove to receive the lower edge of the reed D*^ ; O is the top shell, in which also is a groove, and by these it is kept in its place ; BB are the two swords or supports of the lay, which are suspended from the rocking tree T, by means of cords CC, as re- presented more clearly in Figs. 7 and 9. When the pins at DD are turned round, they twist the suspending cords, which of course, become shorter. By these means either end of the lay may be elevated or depressed at pleasure, to bring it into a proper Avorking position. Instead of these cords, screws are sometimes used, which is certainly a steadier, though a more expensive plan. The boxes II are constructed of a proper size to receive the fly shuttle, which is driven from either by pulhng forward the driver K, sliding freely on the polished spindle F : it then passes along the race G, with great velocity, and lodges in the opposite box. The drivers are moved by the cords EE, fastened to the handle H", which the weaver moves with his right hand, as before men- tioned. In weaving liglit fabrics of cloth, tlie upper rib of the reed is not confined in the shell of the lay, but a light shaft of wood with a groove is used. To each end of this shaft is fixed, at right angles, a thin flat piece of wood, which springs easily backward and forward. The extremities of these pieces are nailed to the back of the swords of the lay, and a cord is tied round both, by whicli the de- gree of spring may be regulated, the rib of the reed is received into this groove, and the shell is to be used above the vibrating reed, serving merely as a rest for the weaver's left hand to work the lay. By this contrivance the reed yields when the weft is driven up, and diminishes the danger of making the cloth too thick. These machines are called ^yers. In still lighter goods, a woollen cord is stretched between the swords, and to it the upper rib of the reed is tied. PLAIN WEAVING. 83 The regularity of the cloth depends much upon the evenness of the dents of the reed, and if this is neglected the warp will be fre- quently broken, and the texture of the cloth impaired. The dents ought not to be perfectly flat, but thicker in the mid- dle, and tapering to either edge. This not only diminishes the fric- tion on the warp, but will allow any small knot or lump to pass much easier without breaking the thread. The fineness, or as it is called among weavers, the set of a web, is determined by the number of dents of the reed in a given length. The reed is divided into hundreds, and these again into five parts, each containing twenty dents. A reed for working hollands is con- sidered to be 40 inches in length, for linen 37 inches, and for cam- bric 34 inches ; and the number of hundreds contained in these respective lengths is called the set. It is probable that these lengths owed their origin to the breadths of v,-hich it was customary to weave these different kinds of cloth. The 40 and 34 inch reeds are now very little used, and the 37 inch, or linen reed, is universally adopted, at least in the cotton manufacture. The cause of this seems to be founded upon con- sidering a yard of 36 inches as a proper standard, and as most kinds of cloth shrink considerably in the breadth, the additional inch is, no doubt, allowed for this. But the shrinking of cloth is very dif- ferent in various fabrics. Cloth of a stout, thick texture requires a much greater allowance than light goods. The additional quantity of warp is, therefore, allowed by the manufacturer, in proportion to the quality of the web, and this is regulated by observation and ex- perience. The length of the Scotch yard is 37 inches, and it probably bears this proportion to the English yard of 36 inches for a similar reason. In Lancashire and the adjoining counties, where the manufacture of cotton goods, chiefly thick fabrics, is carried to a very great ex- tent, a mode of counting their reeds, different from any of those above mentioned, is in use. Their reeds are divided into portions of 19 dents each, which they call beers, and the number of these, contained in 24 inches is called the number of the reed. TEMPLES. The temples, by which the cloth is kppt extended, during the operation of weaving, consist of two pieces of hard wood, with small sharp points in their ends, which la}'^ hold of the edge, or sel- vage of the cloth at either side. 84 THE ART OF WEAVING. The pieces are connected by a cord, passing obliquely through holes or notches in each. By this cord they can be lengthened, or shortened, according to the breadth of the web. They are kept flat after the cloth is stretched, by a small bar, turning on a centre. Their form will appear very plainly at L, in Fig. 6 ; one end is seen at L, Fig. 7. CLOTH ROLL OR BEAM. Behind the temples is the roller over which the cloth passes, as fast as woven, (this roller should be well seasoned, and turned very true,) and is then wound on the cloth beam MM. When the warp has been wrought up as near to the headles as can be done conveniently, the weaver shifts forward the temples, rolls up a pro- per quantity of cloth, which unwinds an equal length of warp, then shifts back the rods and headles, until the latter hang perpendicu- lar, and proceeds with his weaving. This is called drawing a hore by the Scotch, and a sink* by Irish linen weavers. In weaving thick and bulky fabrics of cloth there is a cross beam of wood called the breast beam instead of the small roller. SHUTTLE AND aUILL. The shuttle is made of well seasoned box wood, or of apple tree, and tipped with st^el at each end ; it runs upon two small wheels of iron, or wood, hung on centres ; the weft thread, escaping from the- quill, passes through a small eye of glass, or ivory, inserted in the side of the shuttle, next to the cloth. Fig. 12 is a representa- tion of both. In the woollen and cotton manufactures, the use of the fly shuttle is almost universal ; but in the linen and silk it is still common to pass the shuttle through the warp by the weaver's hand. The boxes, drivers, spindles, and other apparatus used for throwing the * So called from the weaver's depressing one end of tlie bore staff) in drawing off y^rn from the warp beam. PLAIN WEAVING. 85 fly shuttle, are unnecessary in working by the hand, and would, indeed, be encumbrances. OPERATION OF WEAVING. When a warp has been properly arranged in the loom, and all the machinery requisite for weaving it into cloth has been added, the business of the operative weaver depends more upon care and attention, than upon manual dexterity. Silk and woollen warps, which are animal substances, require little preparation after being put into the loom. In these it is only necessary for the weaver, occasionally, to clear his warp behind the rods, and to pick off, or pare away, any knots or lumps upon the yarn, which might pre- sent obstructions in passing through the headles or reed. The clearing of the warp is generally done with a comb, which is drawn gently through it, the teeth being kept in an oblique di- rection, in order to avoid breaking the threads, when any obstruc- tion presents itself. For the operation of cleaning the warp, a pair of small shears is used. This operation is equally necessary in warps spun from the vegetable substances, ^aar and cotton. But they require besides, a further preparation to fit them for the purpose of weaving : this is called SIZING. This operation is justly esteemed of the first importance in the art of weaving warps spun from flax or cotton, and even in fine wool- len fabrics ; for it is impossible to produce work of a good quality unless care be taken in sizing the warp. The use of this process is to give to yarn sufficient strength or tenacity, to enable it to bear the operation of weaving. It also, by laying smoothly all the ends of the fibres which compose the raw material, from which the yarn is spun, tends both to diminish the friction during the process, and to render the fabric smooth and glossy. The substance in common use for sizing, is simply a mu- cilage of vegetable matter l)oiled in water. Wheat flour, and some- times potatoes, are the substances commonly employed for cotton and linen. These answer sufficiently well, in giving to the yarn both the smoothness and tenacity reqiiired ; but the great objection to them is, that they are too easily and rapidly affected by the ope- ration of the atmosphere. When dressed yarn is allowed to stand exposed to the air for an}' considerable time, before being woven 86 THE ART OF WEAVING. into cloth, it always becomes hard, brittle, and apparently inflexible. It is then tedious and troublesome to weave, and the texture of the cloth is rough, wiry, and uneven. This eflfect is chiefly the case in dry weather, when the weavers of fine cloth find it indispensibly necessary to have their yarn wrought up as speedily as possible, after being dressed. To counteract this inconvenience, herring, or beef brine, and other saline substances, which have a tendency to attract moisture, are sometimes mixed in small quantities with the sizing : but this has not proved completely successful, probably because the proportions have not been properly attended to, and because a superabundance of moisture is equally prejudicial with a deficiency. Indeed, the variation of the moisture in the air is so great and so frequent that it appears difficult, if not impossible, to fix any general, not to say universal rule, for the quantity to be mixed. It Avill appear singular to weavers in this country, that in India, the process of weaving even their finest muslins, is conducted in the open air, and exposed to all the heat of the climate, which is intense. ^^e know well that by the common mode such would be imprac- ticable mth fine work in this country, even in an ordinary summer day. Weavers are obliged to work in damp shops, to prevent the size of the web from drying and hardening. It does not appear that this subject, which is of much importance, has, till lately, attracted the attention of scientific men : nor has it been treated in an accu- rate or philosophical manner. We have, very recently, been for- tunate enough to procure some account of the substances which the Indian weavers employ for sizing their wai-ps, and we gladly embrace this opportunity of making it publicly known, as we hope the information will prove an important benefit to the manufac- turers of this country. M. Dubue has lately read a memoir before the ' Academy of ^Sciences of Rouen,^ on the subject of ' Pastes, ^^c.,' in which he shews, that the Indians use a very minute addition of miiriate of lime* to render them retentive, or absorbent of moisture. "Webs," says he, '• sized with such paste as is generally used in this country, (France,) may be woven in the itpper and drier chambers of a house, as well as in the lower and ill aired. Mruiate of lime may be obtained at a very trifling expense from those apothecaries, or others, who prepare water of ammonia. * Monsieur Dubue should have likewise informed us where the Indians procured their muriate of lime. PLAIN WEAVING. 87 The waste whitening steep of the bleacher is merely a solution of muriate of lime." The Indians also, according to Forbes, use a kind of size which they make from a root called kandri. In the sizing of woollen warps, glue is most commonly used. When the warp previously sized has been wrought up, as far as can be conveniently done, the weaver is obliged to suspend the operation of weaving, and to prepare a fresh quantity of warp. It is necessary to stop when the sized warp has approached within two or three inches of the back leaf of the beadles, that room may be allowed to join the old sizing to the new. The first operation is to clear the warp with the comb, from the lease rod to the )^arn beam, and the proof that this operation has been properly executed is, by bringing the rods, successively, from their working situation to the beam. When this has been done, the two rods nearest to the headles, are drawn out of the warp, and the lease rod only remains. The next duty of the weaver is to examine the yarn about to be sized, and carefully to take away every knot, lump, or other ob- struction, which might impede his progress, or injure the cloth. This being performed, he proceeds to apply the substance used for sizing, which should be rubbed on gently, but completely, into the whole warp, by means of two brushes, used in succession, one of which he holds in each hand. He then raises the lease rod on one edge to divide the warp, and sets the air in motion by means of a large /a«, for the purpose of drying the warp which has been sized. It is proper in this stage of the operation, to draw one of the brushes lightly over the warp at intervals, in order to prevent any obstruc- tion which might arise by the threads when agitated by the fan, cohering, or sticking to each other, whilst in a wet state. When the warp is sufl&ciently dried, a very small quantity of grease (tallow) is rubbed over it, with another brush kept for the purpose, the lease rod is again placed upon its flat side and cautiously shifted forward to the headles. The other rods are then put again into their respec- tive sheds, and the process is finished. WEAVING. The operation of sizing the warp being over, the weaver again resumes that of forming the cloth. The operations required are only three : and these are very simple : 1st, Opening the sheds in the warp, alternately, by pressing down the treadles with his feet. 88 THE ART OP WEAVING. 2d. Driving the shuttle through each shed when opened. Tliis is performed by the right l^and, when the fly shuttle is used, and by the right and left hand alternately, in the common hand loom. 3d. Pulling forward the lay to strike up the weft, and again push- ing it back nearly to the headles. This is done by the left hand (as before stated,) with the fly, and by each hand successively in the old way. In describing operations so simple and uniform it is neither easy nor necessary, to go much into detail, and we vrish above all to avoid repetition. It may be useful, however, in iiiis place, to notice the mistakes into which inexperienced weavers are apt to fall, and the defects and inconveniencies which these oc- casion. TREADING. In the treading of a web most beginners are apt to apply the weight or force of the foot much too suddenly. The bad conse- quences attending this mistake are particularly felt in weaving fine or weak yarn. In weaving, as in every other branch of mechanics, the resistance, or reaction, is always nearly as great as the movmg power or force which it is necessary to apply. From this it follows, that the body of the yarn must sustain a stress, nearly equal to the force with which the weaver's foot is applied to the treadle. Besides this, every individual thread is subjected to all the friction occasioned by the headles and dents of the reed, between which the threads pass, and with which they are generally in con- tact in rising and sinking. But the art of spinning has not been, as yet, and probably never can be, brought to such a degree of perfection, as to make every thread capable of bearing its proportion of the stress equally. It is ahke confirmed both l)y mathematical demonstration, and by prac- tical experience, that when any body is to be moved ^\^th increased velocity, it is necessar}^ to exert greater power to move it : and as the resistance increases in proportion to the power, this sudden ap- plication of the pressure of the foot to the trealles, mu,-t cause a proportional increase of the stress upon the warp, and also of the friction. Now as it is ahiiost impossible to make every thread equally strong, and equally tight, those which are the weakest, or the tightest, must bear much more than their equal proportion of the stress. This causes them frequently to break, even with the greatest atten- tion, and uiore thne is lost in tying and replacing them, than would PLAIN WEAVING. 89 have been sufficient for weaving a considerable length of cloth. But if the weaver, from inattention, should continue the operation, after one, or more threads are broken, the consequence would be still worse. When a thread has been broken it no longer retains its parallel situation to the rest, but crossing over, or between those nearest to it, either breaks them also, or interrupts the passage of the shuttle ; frequently it does both. The same reasons will suf- ficiently prove the error of another opinion, too common among conceited or ignorant weavers, especially the younger part of them. This is, that a greater quantity of cloth will be produced, in pro- portion as every motion is performed with increased rapidity. It is unquestionably true, that time will be lost by conducting the opera- tions too slowly : but it is equally certain, that there is a rate of velocity, beyond which it is improper to accelerate the motions of a loom. What the precise rate of this velocity in hand loom weav- ing should be, has not, as we believe, been correctly ascertained. Indeed, it must vary considerably, according to the breadth of the web, the skill of the workman, the nature of the fabric, and the strength of the materials. Instead, therefore, of giving precise rules of motion, we shall here insert a few calculations of the quantities of work which may be produced by uniform and incessant motion, at rates usually reck- oned slow. In a 4-4 cotton shawl, let the warp be 1000, and the weft 1200, it will follow, that the shuttle must be driven 2400 times across the web to produce one square yard of cloth. Now, if this is done 60 times per minute, the whole will be completed in 40 minutes, sup- posing no time to be lost. But as this is scarcely possible, allow one fifth of the time to be occupied in tying threads, changing quills, and other necessary operations, and still the yard of cloth will be completed in 50 minutes. Again, in a 1200 6-4 web, [eveyi loefted,) let the time of weaving a yard in length, be computed at the rate of 40 picks per minute ; this, with the former allowance of one fifth part of the time for stopping, will be done in one hour aiid 15 minutes. Yet every experienced weaver will be satisfied that looms, regularly and con- stantly kept going at the above rates, will produce more cloth than is usually effected, even by the most rapid motions. No allowance is made here for the time employed in sizing, be- cause this is supposed to be the same whether the weaving is per- formed quickly or slowly. These illustrations, w^hich are confirmed by the practical obser- 12 90 THE ART OF WEAVING. vation of every experienced weaver, will be sufficient for the present. The subject will be more fully discussed, when we come to investi- gate the methods of weaving by power. We shall then treat of sizing whole webs by the aid of machinery, and of the best rates of speed adapted for weaving the various kinds of goods to which power can be applied. CROSSING THE SHUTTLE. This, like the former motion, should be performed with a regular and uniform velocity. In every kind of weaving, and especially in thin wiry fabrics, much of the beauty of the cloth depends upon the weft being well stretched. But if the motion of the shuttle be too rapid, it is apt to recoil, and thus to slacken the thread. It has also a greater ten- dency either to break the weft altogether, or to unwind it from the quill in doubles^ which, if not picked out, destroy the regularity of the fabric. The weft of muslins and thin cotton goods, is generally woven into the cloth in a wet state. This tends to lay the ends of the fibres of the cotton smooth and parallel, and its effect is similar to that of sizing the warp. The person who winds the weft upon the quill or bobbin must be very careful that it be well built, so as to unwmd freely. The best shape for those used in the fly shuttle, is that of a cone* and the thread should traverse freely, in the form of a spual or screw, during the operation of winding. The same wheel used for winding the warp upon bobbins, is also fit for winding the weft. It only requires a spindle of a little dif- ferent shape. The wheel is so constructed, that the spindles may be easily shifted, to adapt it for either purpose. STRIKING UP THE WEFT. That the cloth may be uniform in thickness it is necessary, that the lay should be brought forward with the same force every time. In the common operation of weaving, this regularity must be ac- quired by practice. * Messrs. Farquhar and Gunn of Glasgow, Scotland, make the best fly- shuttle bobbin winding machines in Europe, and particularly for power looms, where striped or checked goods are woven. These machines contain from 12 to 100 bobbins each, which they build in the form of a cone. We would advise manufacturers of such goods to procure sample machines from these gentlemen. PLAIN WEAVING. 91 It is, however, of consequence to the weaver, to mount his loom in such a manner, that the range of his lay may be in proportion to the thickness of his cloth. As the lay swings backward and forward, upon centres placed above, its motion is similar to that of a pendulum ; and the greater the arc or range through which it passes, the greater will be its effect in pressing up the weft. For this reason, in weaving coarse and heavy goods, the headles should be hung at a greater distance from the point where the weft is struck up, than would be proper in light work. The point, or rather line, where the last thread has been struck up, is called by weavers the/eZ/. The pivots upon which the lay vibrates ought, in general, to be exactly at equal distances from a line drawn perpendicular to the fell, and one drawn perpendicular to the headles, and between these two hues. But as the fell is constantly varying in its situation, (in hand loom weaving) during the operation, it will be proper to take the medium. This is the place where the fell will be when a hore (one pull of the warp) is half wrought up. From this the following conclusion may also be drawn : The hores ought always to be short in weaving liglit goods ; for, the less the extremes vary from the medium, the more regular will be the arc, or swing of the lay. The result of what has been stated above is, that in each of the three operations of weaving, the motions should be constant and uniform, and, that they should follow each other in regular succes- sion. But some observations will be necessary to adapt these to dif- ferent species of cloth. The beauty or excellence of some cloths consists in the closeness of their texture, that of others in the openness and regularity of the intervals between the threads. When the latter of these is required, the weaver must vary his process from that which would be propei in the former. The extreme tightness of the weft is a principal excellence in open goods, and is, to a certain degree, necessary in the others ; but by no means to the same extent ; two alterations are, therefore, necessary in the formation of such fabrics. The first is in the mounting of the loom, the second, in the operation. By referring to Fig. 7 it will appear, that the threads of the warp pass from the yarn beam to the cloth roller upon a level, or hori- zontal straight line, consequently, the half of the warp which rises and the half which sinks, will deviate equally from a straight hne, and be equally stretched. When this is the case the threads of 92 THE ART OF WEAVIXG. ■warp which pass through the same mterval in the reed, will appear close together in the cloth with a vacancy between them, and those next to them ; which vacancy is can^^ed by the intervention of the dents in the reed. But if the yarn beam is raised considerably above the level of the headles. the warp when at rest, will no longer be in a straight hne ; and when the shed is opened, that half of the warp which descends, will be drawn considerably tighter than the half which rises. Thus each half will be slackened alter- nately, and the consequence of this is, that the warp spreads in the cloth, and the intervals caused hy the dent of the reed are no longer discernahle. The former of these ways of placmg the loom is practised in thin work; the latter in thick. When the weft has been thrown across the warp, if the fabric is thin, the lay is brought up rather before the shed is closed, in order that the weft may be struck up as tight or as stretched as possi- ble ; but in weaving thick goods, the shed is closed before the stroke of the lay is given. Li consequence of this, the threads of the warp, to a certain desrree. slacken the weft, and give a close appearance to the cloth. In weavinsT thick cotton goods, the weft is inserted in a wet state, when the fabric is wanted to appear very close. It may now be proper to notice the defects wliich most commonly occur in the weaving of cloth, and to explain the causes from which tliey arise. When from any cause, the weft is not regularly intei-woven with the warp, a deficiency must happen in the cloth, which is called by weavers a scohb or blotch. This may proceed from several causes, the most frequent is some obstruction in the warp, which prevents any portion of it from rising or sinking regularly when the shed is formed ; of course, the shuttle, instead of passing fairly between the threads of the warp, passes either over or uilder the portion which is obstructed, and the weft at that place is not at all interwoven \\'ith the wai-p. A knot or lump upon the warp, if not picked off, will often ob- stiTict two cr three threads, and form a small scolib. When the weaver, from inattention, continues to weave after a thread of warp has been broken, it very frequently crosses between a number of others nearest to it. and by obstructing the shed in that place, will cause a largfe scobb. Scobbs are also sometimes produced by the lay being too low or too high, but this is more frequent in weaving PLAIN WEAVING. 93 with the hand shuttle than with the fly. In this case the scobbs are always near the list or selvage of the cloth. A second fault in cloth is known among weavers by the name of a jisp or shire. This is most frequent in light fabrics, and is occasioned by any particular thread of Aveft not being struck up so close as the rest. Jisps are very frequently occasioned by de- fects either in the construction or mounting of the loom. If either the yarn beam or cloth beam be not turned very true, jisping will be unavoidable, or if either the headles or the lay be not hung paral- lel to the beams, the same defect will ensue. If the loom is cor- recti]/ made and mounted, the faidt must he with the weaver , and this is only to be surmounted by attention and practice. The other faults in cloth generally proceed from inattention in the management of the warp or weft. If threads are inaccurately drawn through either the headles or the reed, the defect will be ap- parent in the cloth. There is nothing that adds more to the beauty of cloth of every description, and about which good weavers are more solicitous, than a tight imiform selvage. In order to produce this, the warp must be sized even with greater care than what is necessary in the middle of the web. The tightness of the weft, also, contributes materially to the beauty of the selvage. It is sometimes customary to warp a few dentfuls at each selvage with coarser yarn than the body of the web. In many kinds of cloth, however, the common practice is to draw the threads which form the selvage double. That is, to draw two threads through each headle. The threads which form the warp of the selvage being coarser than the rest, and also being drawn more towards the middle of the web by the weft, the intervals of the reed through which they pass, are apt to be worn much sooner than the others. A weaver should carefully attend to this, for if the reed is injured, the work cannot be good. When cane reeds are used, and when the webs wrought in them are of one breadth, it is very common to make those dents between which the warp of the selvages passes, of brass or steel. It is unnecessary to enumerate further, the defects Avhich may occur in the weaving of cloth, /or vo instruction can altogether supply the want of skill, which is only to he ohtained hy practical experience. Having finished the foregoing general account of the nature and process of weaving, it now becomes necessary to pay some attention to the fancy and ornamental department of the business. Of fancy goods, many descriptions are woven in the common loom, 94 THE ART OP WEAVING. without any additional apparatus, and with httle, if any, variation from the process of weaving plain cloths. The extent to which this species of manufacture is carried, renders it an object of very great importance, and the variation in the operative part of the process is so small, that it may be introduced under the description of plain weaving, with little violation of arrangement. As the thickness of the texture of plain cloth depends upon the pro- portion which the fineness of the yarn bears to the measure or set of the reed, it follows, that if yarns of different degrees of fineness are introduced at regular intervals into the same web, two distinct textures, or qualities of cloth, will be produced, and that the ap- pearance of these will be different when the web is finished. Yarns of different colours may also be introduced, and when either of these is practised the goods are called STRIPES. Stripes are formed upon cloth either by the warp, or by the weft. When the former of these ways is practised, the variation of pro- cess is chiefly the business of the warper, in the latter case it is that of the weaver. In extensive manufactories, where large quantities of striped goods of the same description are to be made, it is com- mon to form the stripes in the warping, because in this case, the stripes and their distances from each other will be uniform, which cannot be always relied upon where the stripes are formed by the weft. In warp stripes, where the colour is the same, and the difference is in the fabric, the effect may be produced either by using yarns of different fineness, or by drawing a greater quantity of warp through a given number of headles or intervals of the leed, where the stripes are to be formed. For example, two, or more threads, may be drawn through the same headle eye, or three, or more headlefuls may be drawn through the same interval of the reed, or thirdly, if the stripe is to be very thick, both these ways may be adopted. CHECKS. The patterns of checks may be either similar, or dissimilar in the warp and weft. The former is the most prevalent. Checks, being merely combinations of the two methods of striping, require no fur- ther description ; and as they contain, most frequently, a mixture of colours, their beauty depends more upon the taste and fancy of the manufacturer and the skill of the dyer, than upon that of the PLAIN WEAVING. 95 weaver, whose bus'mess is merely to make the cloth of a good quality, and insert his weft according to the pattern. Stripes and checks are manufactured in great quantities from all the different materials, especially from woollen, silk, or cotton. When the patterns of checks differ at the borders from the middle or bosom of the web, they are called shawls or handkerchiefs. It is very common to weave these with borders only, the bosoms being left plain ; in this case the check work is only at the corners, the rest of the four borders appearing as stripes, two by the warp, and two by the weft. WARPING OF STRIPED WEBS, &c. To compose a pattern for a striped web, you must begin by counting the number of threads in one stripe, then take half that number, if it is two threads per dent, if four, take the fourth of it ; if 8 threads, |-, &c., which will give the number of dents in a stripe. Measure the width of the stripe, so as to ascertain how many times it is to be repeated in the breadth of the web. Multiply the num- ber of times by the dents in the stripe, and you will have the entire quantity of dents in the web. Divide the number of threads in the web by 80, and as 80 threads is a porter, you will thus find the number of porters. The following example will explain this : Suppose that one stripe contains 100 dents with three threads in each, and that there are 10 stripes in the whole breadth of the web, we may find the number of patterns or repeats thus : 100 dents in the stripe 10 repeats or stripes 1000 dents in the web 3 threads per dent 80)3000(37 (Porters) Threads in the web 240 600 560 40 threads over By this we see that 3000 threads give Z7\ porters, 40 threads being half a porter. D. H. HILL LIBRARY North Carolina State Coll«g« SECTION SECOND. TWEELING. TWEELED CLOTH. This species of weaving derives its name from the French word toiiaille, and is generally confined to thick fabrics. In analyzing the texture of plain cloth, it has been shown, that every thread of the warp and of the weft cross each other at right angles, and are tacked together alternately. This is not the case in tweeling, for in this branch of weaving only the third, fourth, fifth, sixth, (fcc. threads cross each other. Tweeled cloths are pro- duced of many different kinds. In the coarsest species every third thread is crossed, and this is commonly caUed the blanket tweel, in finer fabrics they intersect each other at intervals of 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 threads, and in some silk stuffs the crossing does not take place until the 16th interval, which is denominated the full satin tweel. Before proceeding further it may be proper to explain what ia known among weavers by the appellation oi flushing. When any thread or portion, whether of warp or weft, is not regularly inter- woven in the cloth, as in jjlain weaving, that thread or portion of tlireads is said to he flushed. By referring to the following Figs, this will be more clearly illustrated. Fis. 13. In Fig. 13, which is referred to as a specimen of plain cloth, as it would appear when viewed through a microscope, the intersections of the threads are evidently alternate. TWEELING. 97 Fig. 14. Fig. 14 may be considered as a representation of tweeled cloth, upon the same principle that Fig. 13 represents plain. This fig. will show that the same thread of weft remains flushed or disen- gaged from the warp while passing over three threads, and is tacked down by passing under the fourth. Now, were this cloth turned upside down, the same appearance would take place in the warp. That is to say, every fourth thread of the warp would be interwoven with the weft and the remaining three threads would be flushed. An inspection of the Fig. will also convince the reader, that the threads, both of the warp and Aveft, are interwoven at regular intervals. To produce these effects a number of leaves of headles are re- quired, equal to the number of threads contained in the interval be- tween each intersection, inclusive. Thus, when every third thread is to be interwoven, three leaves are required ; if every sixth thread, six leaves will be necessary ; and so of all the others. For this reason, the different species of tweels are distinguished by the num- ber of leaves which are requisite in weaving them, as a four, five, or six leaf tweel, (fcc. The specimen in Fig. 14 is a four leaf tweel. Tweeling is, in many instances, applied to the weaving of cloths which require a great portion of strength, thickness, and durability. In the silk manufacture tweeling is very common. Sometimes it is employed for the sake of strength, but more frequently for the dis- play of colour. In the woollen, strength is the general object, and in the cotton it is most commonly the same. It may be necessary in this place to enquire into the causes which render tweeled cloths stronger than plain, and to ascertain the difference. In so far as the strength of tweeled cloths depends solely on the mode of weaving, that strength will be rather diminished than in- creased, when compared with plain cloth, containing an equal quantity of similar materials. For in the texture of plain cloth every thread is alternately interwoven, while in that of tweels they 13 98 THE ART OF WEAVING. are only interwoven at intervals. Now, in the latter case, the threads can derive no mutual support from each other, except at the intervals where they are interwoven, and that part of them which is flushed must depend entirely on the strength of the indi- vidual threads, those of the warp being flushed upon one side, and those of the weft upon the other. The follo^^^ng inference will naturally arise from this : let two webs of equal length, breadth, quantity, and fineness of yarn, be woven ; let the first be plain and the second tweeled, and their strength ought to be the same. But if by strength, we understand that property which opposes the most effectual and most continued resistance to the decay of cloth, from common wearing, the tweeled web (if equally used) would be in tatters long before the plain one would be materially injured. This is the idea commonly, although inaccurately, attached to the word strength when applied to the texture of cloth ; and, indeed, the above remark will not be found universally true, for the durabihty of cloth exposed only to common wearing, depends partly upon its strength, and partly upon its flexi- bility. It is not, therefore, in the effect of the mechanical operation, but in the facility of combining a greater quantity of materials in the same space, which this mode of weaving affords, that we are to look for superior strength or durability. This may be easily illus- trated : when the shed of any web is opened, every thread of warp, either above or below the thread of weft, will oppose a certain re- sistance to the operation of the reed in driving the weft thread home, and the sum of all these will be the total amount of resistance. Now, in plain weaving, as before stated, every thread is alternately interwoven, and therefore, opposes its portion of resistance : whereas, in a four leaf tweel every fourth thread only is intersected, and of course, less resistance is given. The ratio of resistance, there- fore, will be inversely, in proportion to the number of leaves of headles in the tweel. In the warp the friction on the reed will be diminished, in the same proportion ; for each warp thread, instead of changing its place every time the weft thread crosses, changes only once every four times ; consequently, much more warp may be crowded into the same space than could be done in plain weaving. From the above we may safely deduce, that the strength or dura- bility of a tweeled web, will be somewhat less than the proportion of materials it contains will be to that of a plain web. supposing each to be of equal strength and quality. TWEELING. 99 But when the fabric is very close, tvveeled cloth possesses another advantage over plain in point of durability. When the warp of plain cloth is very much crowded in the reed, and the weft driven very closely up, the threads, in order to cross each other alternately, must deviate very considerably from a straight line, whereas, when woven they become serpentine. This renders the cloth very liable to be easily cut or chafed, especially when composed of hard and comparatively inflexible materials, such as flax ; and the defect is chiefly observable in stout linens. But in tweeled cloth, as the threads only cross at intervals, the deviation from the straight line is much less, and the flexibility of the cloth, of course, much greater. The same general remarks which have been given in the first section, apply almost equally well to the operations of the weaver in all descriptions of work. The varieties consist, chiefly, in the modes of arranging the loom, so as to enable the weaver to produce the desired effect. MOUNTING OF LOOMS FOR TWEELING. As almost every variety of fancy weaving is produced by tlie order and succession in which the weft is interwoven with the warp, the principal difference in nioiinting the looms is in the number and arrangement of the leaves of the headles, and the apparatus for moving them. In weaving plain cloth, the jacks represented in Fig. 8, at FF, answer the purpose sufficiently well, because the raising and sinking of every thread is alternate. But, in the weav- ing of tweels and many other kinds of ornamental and fancy cloth, the number of leaves is generally greater, and these are to be raised and sunk successively, or not, as the nature of the case may re- quire. It is therefore necessary, that the mounting of the loom should be adapted to the purpose for which it is intended, and as the succession of working the headles by means of the treadles may frequently vary, the mounting which connects every leaf with the treadle, and from which its motion is derived, must be such that the leaf may be raised or sunk independent of all the others. A repre- sentation of the mechanism used for this purpose, by many skilfid weavers, will be found in Fig. 15. 100 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 15. ^iii"l Hi' l.l::l''l^!!ni'!i;i!^MillillilliMtllllil'lll!lllll^ liimi!l!IHIIIiillll!!l|l|||iHliil!lllil||l!||||||||l||||||||[|| 43 AB 12 In this figure four leaves of the headles are represented at C, perpendicularly above which are four levers, moving upon centres at B. From one end of each of these levers at A, a leaf of the headles is suspended by the two oblique placed cords : these cords meetins" below the lever, continue as a smgle cord to pass through a groove in its end, and are then made fast to it. Below the headles are two sets of marches or levers, consisting of four each, which are moveable at the centres F and I. The long marches are dis- tinsruished by the letter E. the short by G. Each of the four long marches is connected with the end of the corresponding top levers at D. each short march is connected vnth the lower shaft of the leaf of the headles to which it is to give motion. Now, as each of these marches is connected with one leaf of the headles. it follows, that if a long- inarch is pulled down, the leaf will rise : if a short is pulled down, the leaf will sink. This will be apparent, when it is considered that the cords below form a direct connexion between the lower headle shafts and the short marches. Of course, when one of the latter is pulled down^ those of the former, with which it is connected, must sink also- Bu" the motion communicated from the long marches to the upper shafts is reversed at the centre of the top levers ; for when the end TWEELING. 101 D is pulled down, the end A will rise, and the corresponding headle leaf will be pulled up. These top levers are known among weavers by the name of coiipers. The arrangement of this apparatus, although very simple, ought to be carefully studied by those who are not conversant with the practice of weaving, for it is very generally used, in almost every species of ornamental work. The ends of the top levers or coupers at A, which contain the grooves for the suspending cords, ought to be segments of a circle, the radius of which is equal to the distance of the groove from the centre of motion at B, in order that the pull may be uniformly perpendicular. The distance of the centre B from the end D is, generally, made twice as great as that from A to B, for otherwise the long marches would communicate too great a range of motion to the rising headles. If greater accuracy is wanted, the ranges of the different levers, and the ratio which they bear to each other, may be calculated by the same rules which apply to all other motions communicated by means of levers, and these are explained in almost every elementary treatise upon mechanics. When the connections between the headles and marches have been formed, agreeably to the above description, it is only necessary to arrange the treadles, and to connect each with the marches which it is intended to move. It is a common rule in fancy weaving, that every individual treadle should be connected with all the leaves of the headles, for the purpose of raising some and sinking the rest. Some exceptions to this rule however, occur ; but these are few, and will be particu- larly noticed, when the cases to which they relate are being inves- tigated. The connecting cords between the marches and treadles are ap- plied in the manner proper for weaving a web which maybe tweeled or plain. This kind of mounting is often used for cloths in which the ground is woven plain, and stripes tweeled hy the weft, occa- sionally introduced. If the figure is carefully examined, the con- nection of each treadle with the marches may be easily distinguished by comparing the lines which represent the cords, with the descrip- tion which will be afterwards given. But previous to this, it may be useful to explain the mode of draw- ing plans upon paper to direct the weaver in drawing his warp through the headles, and of applying the cords by which these headles are to be worked ; these plans are generally called the 102 THE ART OF WEAVING. DRAUGHT AND CORDING. Plans of this description may be considered as horizontal sections of a loom, for the purpose of showing the headles and treadles. Although the treadles of a loom are placed directly under the hea- dles, it is usual to represent them at one side, upon the paper, or draught, for the sake of easier reference from the one to the other. Fiff. 16, Fi2. 17. a m Bjmi Figs. 16 and 17, are representations of tweels of four leaves, and as the fabric of tweeled cloth is generally thick and close, they, being on a large scale, will convey a clear idea of its appearance, as they are designed to give an accurate representation of the intersections of the threads. If we suppose that the warp of a tweeled web is of white yarn, and that the weft is black. Fig. 16 will convey a correct idea of the appearance of the upper side of a web when woven in a loom mounted with four leaves of headles, every fourth leaf being raised and three sunk ; and Fig. 17 will represent the appearance of the under side of the same web ; for in Fig. 17 the white warp appears flashed, and in Fig. 16 the black weft is flushed. Now, were the cording reversed, that is to say, were three leaves to rise and one to sink when each treadle is pressed down, the eflfect would be quite the same, excepting that the upper side would then be flushed by the weft, as in Fig. 16 and the under by the warp, as in Fig. 17. This reversing of the flushing, which may be effected by additional mounting, is the principle upon Avhich the ornamental figures upon many kinds of tweeled cloth depends. We shall have occasion to treat of this hereafter. TWEELING. 103 ARRANGEMENT OF TREADLES. When a great number of treadles are necessary to produce any effect, it will be obviously the best way to arrange them in the suc- cession in which they are to be pressed down by the weaver's foot, or feet, when this is practicable. For if some regular order be not adopted, the weaver will frequently be apt to mistake the treadle and press down a wrong one. In heavy fabrics, w'here great power must be applied, the weaver is generally obliged to use both his feet on the same treadle, as well as the whole weight of his body. In this case it is common to place the treadles in regular succession from right to left, as — 6—5—4—3—2—1. But when the fabric is lighter, and when the pressure of one foot is sufficient, it wall be more couA^enient to arrange the treadles so that the right and left foot may be applied alternately, without crossing each other. When this is the case, the w^eaver, while treading with one foot, has sufficient time to shift the other to the next treadle, without impeding the operation. This naturally leads us to com- mence our succession at the centre, and to place the succeeding treadles alternately upon each side, as — 5_3_1_2_4— 6. In this case the treadles 1, 3, and 5 will be wrought by the left foot, and the treadles 2, 4, and 6 by the right ; and by applying the feet alternately, the treadles from 1 to 6 will be wrought in the regular order adopted in the elevation Fig. 15. In Fig. 15, four treadles are required for the tweel and two for working the web plain. The former are distinguished by numbers, the latter by the letters AB. In all the plans given it is to be understood that when two trea- dles are applied for the purpose of working the web plain, these treadles are always distinguished by the letters AB. All treadles for the fancy part are distinguished by numbers, and the placing of these numbers gives the order in which the treadles ought to be wrought. Fig. 18 Fig. 18. p i, E W 5 4 3 2 1 104 THE ART OF WEAVING. shows the draught and cording of a loom, mounted for working a tweel consisting of five leaves of headles. The only difference be- tween this and the four leaf tweel is in the number of the leaves and treadles. The drawmg of the warp through the headles pro- ceeds in the same regular succession from right to left, and the trea- dles are arranged in the same order. In Fig. 18, five of the lines which represent the threads of the warp are connected by each cross line, five threads therefore are to be drawn through each in- terval of the reed. Fig. 19 Fig. 19. represents a kind of ornamental tweel. produced, merely, by revers- ing the order m which the warp is drawn through the headles. The plan for drawing and cording a web of this description will be found by referring to Fig. 20. Fig. 20. Fig. 20 is the cording of a tweeled stripe, where the tweehng is re- versed in the draught, in a way similar to that shown in Fig. 19. Stripes of this kind are called by weavers herring hones, from their resemblance to the back bone of that native of the deep. The draught and cording will appear by inspection, if the explanations aheady given are fully understood. We have hitherto considered all the threads of warp in tweeled cloth, as inter^-oven in progressive succession, for the sake of ren- dering the general principle of tweelmg more obvious to those pre- viously unacquainted with this branch of weaving. When tweels do not exceed four leaves, tliis arrangement is always adopted, but when a greater number of leaves is used, a kind of aUemate suc- cession is esteemed preferable : this is called by weavers TWEELING. 105 BREAKING THE TWEEL. When a tweel consists of many leaves, the flushing of both warp and weft would be so great, that the intervals between the points at which they are interwoven would necessarily be very flimsy, (as in many kinds of French fancy vestings) and the fabric very un- equal. To obviate this inconvenience, the broken tweel is used. The same mounting by which a regular tweel is wrought, will also work a broken tweel by treading in different succession. But this would derange the order of the treadles, and, as mentioned before, might be productive of many mistakes. Weavers therefore prefer placing the cording so that the regular succession of the treadles may be preserved, while the effect of the broken tweel is at the same time produced. An example of each of these follows : The first, Fig. 21, Fig. 21. 4 3 2 1 A.B 1 2 3 4 5 6 is a plan for mounting a loom, so as to produce both plain and tweeled cloth at the same time. Such plans are generally adopted, when it is requisite to weave webs, the grounds of which are to be plain, and the stripes tweeled by the warp. Two treadles are added, to enable the weaver to work the whole fabric plain, if necessary. If not required, the two plain treadles A B may be omitted. In this plan, the leaves 1, 2, 3 and 4 contain that portion of the warp which is to form the tweeling or stripes, the leaves A B, that por- tion which is to form the ground or intervals. An examination of the mode of applying the cording will evince that when the treadles 1, 2, 3 and 4 are pressed down in the order of the numbers, the tweeling leaves 1, 2, 3 and 4 will rise successively, and the plain leaves A B alternately. The draught of the warp through the reed, as denoted by the cross lines, is here adapted to the purpose of rendering the tweeled stripes more close and compact than the plain ground ; for of the former four threads pass through each interval, 14 106 THE ART OF WEAVING. and of the latter only two. But if the whole is to be wrought jjlain, occasionally, the entire warp should be equally drawn through both the headles and reed. This case very rarely occurs. Fig. 22 is a plan of a plain and tweeled stripe, and Fig. 23 is its draught and cording. Fiff. 22. Fig. 23. 43 2 1 1 2 345 678 Fig. 24 is a regular five leaf tweel, the same as Fig. IS. Fig, 25 is the same tweel broken ; and the succession of the treading, to produce either the regular, or broken tweel, is expressed by the numbers annexed to each. Fig. 24. Fig. 25. 1 ^ 1 ■ 1 2 sss 2 2 3 ^M a ^ 3 4 m 4 J 4 5 5 ■ 5 R B 5 3 4 5 3 2 2 4 1 1 B 5 3 4. 5 3 2 2 4 1 1 The above example wtU sufficiently show^ the two ways of tweel- ing : and also that the whole difference in the cording is solely to preserve a regular order in the treadles. The same succession of treading which breaks the tweel in Fig. 25, restores its regularity in Fig. 24. In these, and the following examples, each interval between the lines denotes a leaf of the headles. Numbers are used to show the order and succession in which the threads are drawn, and the dark squares denote the raising cords ; which squares we prefer to use instead of cyphers, as they are more hke design paper. TWEELING. FI2. 26. 107 is a specimen of the effect and appearance of a five leaf tweel, broken in this way, as viewed on the side where the warp is flushed. In the same way, tweels of six, and seven leaves are drawn and mounted. The following are examples of each : Fig. 27. Regular. SIX LEAF TWEELS. Fig. 28. Broken. ^m, 1 1 ■ 2 MM 2 E^= 3 -m 3 E^ 4 Hi 4 E5=i= 5 ffl .5 ■ 6 ft=j i^ R. 6 5 4 3 2 1 B. 6 4 2 5 3 1 B. 6 5 4 3 2 1 R. 6 4 2 5 3 1 SEVEN LEAF TWEELS. Fig. 29. Reofular. Fig. 30. Broken. ■ 1 === 1 ^ 2 ^^ 2 3 ^ 3 =^ 4 — 4 M 5 E== 5 ^ 6 ^^ 6 ^ 7 H 7 R. 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B. 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B. 6 4 2 7 5 3 1 R. 6 4 3 7 5 3 1 These examples will show the manner of forming the alternate or broken tweel. It is to be observed that the cording may be adapted in various ways, and the tweel broken in several places, according to the discretion of the weaver. When the number of leaves will admit of it, the succession should be made, as nearly as possible, at equal intervals. For example, in the broken tweel of six leaves, (shown in Fig. 28.) all the leaves ought to follow each other in succession, passing one leaf between each until you come to the sixth treadle, but as the first treadle immediately follows the 108 THE ART OF WEAVING. sixth in repeating the operation, there will be no interval there ; and the effect of these two leaves will be that of a regular tweel, while all the rest give that of a broken tweel. There is also an interval of two leaves between the intersection produced by the third and fourth treadles. This, however, cannot be avoided in working with six leaves ; this number, therefore, although given as an illustration, ought to be avoided in practice. The five leaf tweel also, though much used, has an interval of two leaves between the third and fourth treadle. When eight leaves are employed, the succession in breaking the tweel is different, and disposes the warp at intervals more perfectly than any tweel that can be formed by a smaller number of leaves. In all the former, the interval is formed by passing one leaf be- tween every two until the whole are corded, but in the eight leaf tweel two leaves are omitted, and the third has the raising cord ap- pUed, as will be seen by the followmg example. Fig. 31. EIGHT LEAF DAMASK TWEEL, OR HALF SATIN. Fig. 31. isa 1 ^= 2 ^ 3 BB 4 ^n 5 w^ 6 p= 7 ^ 8 Broken. 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Regular. 6 3 8 5 2 7 4 1 It is unnecessary to give further explanation of the eight leaf tweel, because it proceeds exactly like those already given ; besides, with so many leaves, regular tweehng is seldom used. By examin- ing this cording it will appear, that the intervals by which the tweel is broken are perfectly regular, for the first treadle succeeds the eighth at the same interval as all the others. It is to be observed of satin tweels, that some are perfect in re- spect to the intervals at which the leaves can be raised, and others are imperfect. When the leaves can be raised regularly at in- tervals of one, two or more from each other, the tweel is said to be perfect ; but imperfect when the number of leaves does not admit of this arrangement. The lowest tweel that can be broken is that of four leaves, which is usually called the satinett tweel. The last specimen of common tweels which we shall give, is that TWEELING. 109 of sixteen leaves, and is only to be found in some of the very fine Chinese, Itahan, French and English silk fabrics. Here the tweel is broken by omitting four leaves and cording the fifth. SIXTEEN LEAF, OR FULL SATIN TWEEL. Fiff. 32. 1 ^ 2 3 ==^ 4 5 6 ^ 7 8 gi^ 9 ^ 10 ^ 11 ^ 12 ^ 13 i^ 14 =- 15 16 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Having finished our observations, for the present, on this part of our subject, and given such examples as appear necessary to con- vey a sufficient knowledge of the principles of common tweeling, of the varieties of which it is susceptible, and of the machinery re- quisite for weaving the various kinds, our next object is to investi- gate the means by which looms are adapted to the weaving of TWEELED STRIPES. In the references to Figs. 16 and 17, the flushing upon tweeled cloth has been explained. On one side the warp is flushed, on the other the weft. Most kinds of fancy tweeled stripes are produced by the application of this principle. Stripes upon tweeled cloth differ from those upon plain in the following respects : tweeled stripes may be formed without any dis- tinction in the fineness of the warp ; nor do they require super- numerary threads to be drawn either through the headles or the reed, it is only requisite to flush the warp and weft alternately. The examples necessary to illustrate this are upon the scale of a five leaf tweel ; for the same principle will apply to any number of leaves used for tweeling. 110 THE ART OF WEAVING. FIVE LEAP TWEEL STRIPE. Fig. 33. Regular and Reversed.* 1 1 1 ^ 2 22 M 3 3 3 4 4 4 ■ 5 5 5 ■ ■ H 1 1 1 ^m m = 2 2 2 ; . ■,:;■" 3 3 3 1 '- isa 4 4 4 ]' -ip--' 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 1 The above is a specimen of a stripe upon ten leaves of headles, five of which flush the ivarp and five the weft. This stripe is produced by two sets of leaves, consisting of five each. The cording of the back set is exactly the same as the regu- lar five leaf tweel, already described in Fig. 18 (which see ;) that of the front set is the same reversed; in the back set there are five raising cords which raise one leaf successively, while all the rest sink, and there are also five sinking cords, as indicated by the blanks, which sink one leaf successively, while all the rest rise as in the front set. By this arrangement the back set flushes the weft, the other the warp. The stripe is formed by drawing a portion of the warp through one set of leaves, then another portion through the other set, and so on alternately, according to the pattern of the stripe, which may be regulated by fancy. It is usual in this species of tweeling to invert the order of raising the leaves of the two sets ; for it will be obvious, that when the treadles are worked in the order from right to left, the back leaves will rise in succession from one to five, and the front leaves will sink in an inverted succession from 5 to 1. If a broken tweel is preferred, the leaves are corded exactly as in common tweeling, one set rising; the other sinking. The follow- ing example will be sufficient : * When one headle is lifted out of every five, in regular succession, the tweel is said to be regular ; and, when four are lifted out of every five, it is called reversed. In the former case, four fifths of the weft show on the upper side of the clotli ; and, in the latter, four fifths of the warp. This explanation we give merely as an example, for these terms are applied to tweels of any number of leaves. Fig. 33. shows the tweel regular and reversed. TWEELING. Ill FIVE LEAF TWEEL STRIPE. Fig. 34. Broken and Reversed. s 1 1 1 1 ■ 2 2 22 ^^ 3 3 3 3 m 4 4 4 4 5 5 5 5 ^= m 1111 H m 2 2 2 2 m 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 m 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 1 All tweeled stripes are mounted upon the same principle. Any number of leaves may be adopted, as in common tweeling. The patterns depend entirely upon the succession of drawing the warp through the leaves of the headles, and may be varied almost to infinity. TURNED OR REVERSED TWEELING. In all the regular and broken tweels the greatest proportion of the weft is thrown to one side of the cloth, and of the warp to the other. In a five leaf tweel, for example, if the warp were one colour and the weft another, and as there is always one leaf raised and four sunk, it will follow, that four fifths of the weft will appear on the upper side of the cloth and four fifths of the warp below. But, were the plan of this cording reversed, four fifths of the warp would be thrown on the upper side and of the weft below. Changing the appearance of the weft from one side of the cloth to the other in this manner is called turning, or reversing the tweel, (see Figs. 16 and 17) and is of very extensive application in diflferent branches of weaving, particularly in dimity, diaper, and damask, which will be explained in their proper places. Suppose, therefore, that a piece of cloth were to be woven in tweeled stripes, one stripe the reverse of the other, two sets of tweel- ing leaves would be necessary, and the plans of cording on the treadles would also be the reverse of each other. The first of these tweels, in respect to the number of leaves, is the dimity cord, which is merely the three leaf tweel turned, a plan of which is subjoined, both for cording and treading : 112 THE ART OF WEAVING. DIMITY CORD. Fig. 35. CoTfiing. Treading ■ 1 1 1 ^^5^ 1 :^^ ^ 2 2 2 M 3 3 3 ^ ■ ■ M 1 1 1 ■ H ■ ^ M 222 ■ ■ ^ ■ 33 3 ■ 3 2 1 6 4 2 5 3 1 In the above plan the first nine threads of warp are drawn on the back set of leaves, and the other nine on the front set. Under the word cording, the raising marks are so placed on the back leaves as to flush or float the weft on the upper side of the cloth, and on the front leaves to throw up the warp. DORNIC AND DIAPER. This branch of weaving was cliiefly confined to the manufacture, of table linens, till of late that it has been apphed to certain species of shawls, in the cotton manufacture, the warp and weft of which are, in general, of diflferent colours. The coarser sets of table linens, and which require the least mounting, having only a four leaf tweel, were manufactured in considerable quantities, some time ago, at the village of Dornock, in the north of Scotland, whence the name Dornic : but the finer kinds which are usually woven by a more extensive apparatus, and in general with a tweel of five leaves are called diaper. The most simple pattern of this kind is the damboard or checker as shown in Fig, 36. DAMBOARD OR CHECKER. Fig. 36. DORNIC AND DIAPER. 113 But such draughts, instead of forming squares, may be broken into an indefinite number of parts of various dimensions, and when the whole of this variety contained in one set of the pattern is woven square, Avhich is effected by following the same order of suc- cession in treading, as is observed in the draught, or any other suc- cession which fancy may suggest, an endless diversity of figures may be produced, merely by two sets of tweeling leaves. The fol- lowing plan, Fig. 37, Fiff. 37. which may be taken for an example, is the draught and cording of a very common pattern in this branch of weaving, and the figure which it produces is represented on design paper in Fig. 38. Fig. 38. „.,— M.MSKKS SB aa ■ ■■■ ■■■■ BB - ' ■a aaaa ■ a ' aaaa "■■f" ■in".B s :: ■■Mb ■■n ■■IB :::: ::is :: ■ ■■■ IB ■ ■■■ IB :»: ;: ss '"'" sss: i: aaaa S! BB aaBBBaBB ■! BB.. iBBaaaaa a! BB , BBaaaaaa a _Ba _aaaaaiBB aa ■■■■ hi! Ilia ■■ K!!"^:'"""' - B^ , ss IB aaBBBBaa."' aa :!*; s ss ■ aaa aa ■■ ■■■■■■■ s s: a.".S s ss aiaiBH ■„■■ - aa HiiaaBB li :: ! IBBBBa.* ■^.■■■■"S ■„" This draught and plan of cording are adapted to the four leaf regular tweel, the cording being the same as the checker (Fig. 36 :) but it will be obvious, from the examples given under the article tweeling, that the same figure may be produced by a tweel of any other number of leaves, and woven either by the regular or broken method of treading. When two or more sets of tweeling leaves are thus employed, the mounting is said to consist of two or more divisions, (each division generally contain four leaves of headles) and the draught and cord- is 114 THE ART OF WEAVING. ings of such mountings are usually marked on one leaf and treadle for each set or division which are sufficient to exhibit all the design. This is called the binding plan, because it binds, as it were, the several divisions together which are at any time to be raised, and brings all that is essential in the pattern into a small compass ; so that the weaver has only to substitute one set of tweeling leaves and treadles, whatever number may be employed, for each leaf and treadle in this plan. This will be apparent by comparing the preceding draught and cording (Fig. 37,) with the corresponding draught and cording on two divisions, (each of which represent four leaves) marked, w, in which it will be observed, that on the back set of the leaves A, there are two draughts, which are marked 2, then 2 over the fore set B. These are succeeded by eight draughts on the set A, two on the set B, two on the set A, and eight on the set B ; all of which are set doAvn in figures, respectively, on the binding plan m. Where the four treadles A cross the leaves or divisions marked A, the greatest portion of raising marks is placed, or that division is said to be raised in order to reverse the tweel : a raising mark is therefore placed in the corresponding square of the binding plan on the treadle marked a, the same is to be observed with respect to the leaves and treadles marked B (Fig. 37,) and this takes place in all those plans which are given in the contracted form, whatever number of divisions they contain. In weaving this pattern, the weaver works twice over the treadles A, because these reverse the tweel in such parts of the pattern as are represented on the back division, and by following the succes- sion of the draught, he goes twice over the treadles B, eight times over the treadles A, and so on, till the figure be square, after which the same succession is repeated. When dornic or diaper patterns are drawn on design paper, which is usually 10 by 10, each black square in the binding plan denotes one space by the warp, so that each of these spaces may contain sometimes four, and sometimes five threads, according as it is in- tended for dornic or diaper, or fineness of the reed. The spaces by the weft likewise contain a corresponding number of picks, or once over the set of headles. Keeping still in mind the general rule, that all patterns formed by the warp are produced by the raising cords, let the warp in this example be supposed blue, and the weft white, then the dark shaded spaces in the figure will represent the pattern as formed by flushing the warp above, and the white spaces, those parts of the pattern DORNIC AND DIAPER. 115 where the warp is underneath. Hence the two spaces at the bot- tom of the design (Fig. 3S.) will represent those parts of the figure which are produced by working twice over the treadles A, the next two spaces those that are produced by the treadles B ; the treadles A, again being wrought eight times over from the large squares of eight spaces each way, and so on with any other variety that may occur, without any regard to the number of tweeling leaves in the division. It must be observed however, that this pattern is drawn upon a comparatively small scale, and thus in applying such patterns to practice, they may be enlarged in any given proportion, either to ex- pand their dimension or to suit them to any desirable set of reed ; thus were all the figures on the plan, 7n, multiplied by 3, the draught would stand three times the size it now is, and so of any other pattern. Vs hen a still greater variety of pattern is required, tlie number of divisions must be increased as in the other branches of weaving ; as these mountings, however, can only l>e augmented by adding complete sets of the tweel, the varieties arising from an increase of leaves in this, must be more limited than in almost any other branch. This disadvantage however, is in a great measure com- pensated by the ingenious diversity which is usually observed in the succession of the draught, by means of which a style of pattern peculiar to diaper weaving is produced. The same draught, also, will weave a variety of patterns, agreeably to the different arrange- ments of the raising cords upon the binding plan, and the succes- sion of working over the treadles ; and that diaper moimtings may not always be confined to their original draughts, the beadles are not, in general, spaced like common power loom, or other headles, but are cast separately, as in the finer kinds of fancy mountings, so as to run upon the backing or mvddUng cord, by which the weaver can adapt them, at pleasure, to any pattern he may have occasion to weave. The following plan. Fig. 39, Fis. 39. to II 12 213312 d ] gp j 112 2111112 c j p^-= ) 113 3 11 1 13 6 spii 1 14 1 11 14a 1 2 2 \d 1 I 1 1 1 1 c 1 1 3 \ 1 3 b 1 1 4 1 I a Binding Plan and Treading. 116 THE ART OF WEAVING. which is on a scale of four divisions, and only a four leaf tweel, for saving room, will give the reader an idea of the manner in which a variety of patterns may be obtained from the same draught and succession of treading, merely by a different position of the raising cords upon the treadles. SECTION THIRD. WEAVING DOUBLE CLOTH. The next variety of weaving that claims our attention, is that of double cloth, which is for the most part composed of two similar fabrics (generally plain) interwoven at various intervals, and formed into a diversity of figures, agreeably to the design of the pattern to be produced. This is the method usually practised in ingrain car- pet weaving (which see.) In order to render this species of weaving as perspicuous as possi- ble, let us take, for example, the warp of any plain fabric one thread of which is blue and the other white, alternately, and let us suppose this warp to be drawn through a common four leaf set of plain headles in the usual way. These headles might be worked to produce the following changes of fabric : 1st. When the two back leaves are raised and sunk alternately with the two fore ones, and white weft thrown across, the whole fabric, which is plain cloth, will be formed into very small blue and white stripes, and if a pick of blue and a pick of white be thrown in alternately, a corresponding check will be produced. 2d. If the two fore leaves were constantly sunk and the back ones raised alternately, it is plain, that by throwing in blue weft, all the blue warp would be woven into a uniformly blue fabric, leaving the white warp unwoven below. 3d. Were the two back leaves constantly raised and the two front ones raised alternately, a white fabric would be produced by throwing in white weft, leaving out the blue warp above. Hence, if one shuttle only were employed for both webs, so long DOUBLE CLOTH. 117 as the weaver continued to work upon one set of treadles, the two webs would still be distinct, except at the selvages, where they would be united by the weft. It was in this manner that Ichao he-he-hi-ho Ouang (nephew to Tehng Ouang, emperor of China, who reigned 1079 years before Christ,) manufactured hempen pipes, for conducting water to his uncle's flower gardens. Pipes, woven in the same way, have been lately adapted, in France, to the fire engine, and also as wicks for the patent lamps. It was likewise on this principle that Julius Cesar's great coat was woven. TWEELING DOUBLE CLOTH. Although tweeling, however extensively it may be otherwise em- ployed, is seldom applied to double cloth, yet as there is great room here for a display of ingenuity, especially in the manufacture of shawls, plaids, bed covers, (fcc, it will be necessary to show how the several varieties of this kind of texture may be produced. It has been already observed that four leaves of headles, two for each set, are required to weave double cloth of the plain texture. If, therefore, one set of tweeling leaves be substituted for each set of plain ones, it will be obvious, that every variety of pattern that can be produced on the plain texture, can likewise be effected on the tweeled one. For example, take six leaves, enter orange warp in the back three, and red warp in the front three. It is evident that if the back set be worked, a three leaf tweel can be produced by lifting one leaf in regular succession until three picks of weft be thrown into the web, and thus, supposing the weft to be orange, cloth of that colour will be produced, entirely independent of the red warp in the front leaves. Again, by working the front leaves exclusively of the back ones, a red fabric will be produced, provided the weft be red ; and if these two webs be made to pass through each other at different in- tervals, various devices and patterns may be produced. (See in- grain carpeting.) This mounting makes one web entirely orange and the other all red, but if the two colours of weft be different from the warp, then we may throw the greater proportion of either one, or both warps, outward, or inward, and thus a variety of colours may be displayed. As it would, however, require a great number of leaves of headles, lis THE ART OF WEAVING. and treadles to weave but a very limited pattern on this principle, this style of work seems to be peculiarly adapted to the draw-loom, under which head the subject of tweehng double cloth will be fur- ther illustrated. THE JUNCTION OF TWO UNEQUAL FABRICS. This species of double cloth is chiefly confined to qiiiltings, com- monly called Marseilles quiltings.which are also manufactured in considerable quantities in Great Britain, and printed for vestings. The mounting of a quilt consists of a set of plain headles, usually four for the face, and a number of stitching leaves proportionate to the range of the pattern for the back, and these produce all the variety of figure m the design. The stitching leaves are frequently adapted to diagonal and diamond patterns, although they may be made to produce any other fancy figure at pleasure, and the range of pattern, as in other branches of ornamental weaving, may be enlarged beyond the power of leaves, or until the application of the draw loom becomes necessar)^* Q,uiltings are generally v/oven in reeds of the Manchester and Bolton count, which contain a certain number of beers or porters in 24|- inches. The warp and weft of the face are considerablj'" finer than those of the back, and two threads of the face and one of the back are drawn into the same interval or split of the reed. If we take, for example, a No. 36 reed that is 36 beers in 24;^ inches, the warps and wefts as noted below will make a pretty good quiU : For the face No. 36. ) For the back 26. ^ '^^^""P^' face 46. ) ^ 11 r>a t weits. back d6. \ In weaving these fabrics, there are two picks of the fine and two of the coarse weft thrown in alternately. One pick of the fine stitches the back and face together, and one of the coarse is thrown in between the back and the face clear of both fabrics, and this is called the wadding. The other coarse pick goes into one of the sheds that work the back, so that when eight picks of weft are thrown, four go to the face, two for wadding, and two are thrown into the two alternate sheds of the back. The following plan (Fig. 40) will show the construction of a quilt mounting. * The late Mr. David Anderson, Damask Manufacturer, Glasgow, wove a shirt with a fine frill, double stitched neck, shoulder straps, and wrist bands; also gussets, buttons, button holes, &c. with the Royal Arms em- blazoned on the breast. DOUBLE CLOTH. 119 DIAGONAL aUlLT. Fia. — m 1 1 ^ ta 1 " ^s^ 1 • • w mmki iFp^ 1 . . • X m H E^ m 1- -l-l- A ^ H ^ ^ 1 • -1 -1 • B 8 2 i 3 13 9 5 1 16 6 16 12 7 11 15 a b c d e / g /t In the above plan A and B are the two leaves for the face, and 0, V, w, T, the stitching or back leaves. The treadle b, opens one shed of the face, and sinks all the warp of the back, and this trea- dle works alternately with the treadles, e, /, g, h, which open the other shed of the face and at the same time raise each of the back or stitching leaves. The treadles, a, and c, open the two sheds of the back, while at the same time they raise all the warp of the face above the shuttle. The treadle, d, opens the shed for the wadding, by raising the face and sinking the back. By tracing over the figures that point out the order of treading it will be found that the first and second picks, which are fine, are thrown into the face, but at the first tread the stitching leaf, x, is raised, by which the back and face are tacked together. The third and fourth picks are coarse, the former goes for wadding and the latter is the first shot of the back. The fifth and sixth picks are fine, which are wrought into the face, but the former has the back leaf, w, raised, by which the back is again stitched to the face. The seventh and eighth picks are coarse, the former goes for wad- ding, and the latter forms the second pick of the back : and thus any pattern may be woven at pleasure, according to the succession of the draught on the stitching leaves, and the order in which they are raised. Although the preceding plan is given in the most concise form of which it is susceptible, in order to render the principles of this species of weaving as perspicuous as possible, yet in practice the weaver will find it very awkward to shift his right foot from each of the stitching treadles to the wadding one, while his left is en- gaged with a different succession with the others. To obviate this, a wadding treadle with the same cording is usually placed alter- nately with a stitching one, by which arrangement the succession of treading for the right foot will be in a regular or progressive 120 THE ART OF WEAVING. order over the treadles. This arrangement is common in practice, and is therefore adopted in the following examples : Fig. 41 is a DIAMOND aUILT. Fi?. 41. 1 ^ m 1 ^M - 1 i • 1 s ^ . 1 ... 1 ■ • • 1 1 ^m ^ ^m ^^ -^-"- ':L^y .|.|. .|.|.|.|.|.| ^m M m mr •1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1 8 16 34 2 6 10 14 18 22 4 12 20 13 11 15 9 17 19 5 21 3 23 1 WAVED aUILT. Fig. 42. DIAMOND aUILT. Fig. 43. CORDING OF FIGS. 42 AND 43. Ficr. 44. te ^ M B 1 ^ H m ^ ■ H ■ ■ 1 M 8 16 2i 32 40 48 ^ ^= 25 23 27 ■ 21 29 19 31 17 33 15 35 13 37 y 11 39 §r 2 16 10 14 18 22 26 30 34 38 42 46 4 12 20 28 36 44 -- 9 41 7 43 5 45 3 47 1 DOUBLE CLOTH. 121 DOUBLE CLOTH HARNESS. Having already explained the principle on which double cloth is woven, it only remains for us to show how that principle is extended to the draw loom. Suppose we take a shawl for example, the pattern of which is scarlet and the ground blue, the warp of course will be composed of a blue and scarlet thread alternately ; and suppose two threads of each colour to be drawn through each mail of the harness. Were the texture to be that of a three leaf tweel, six front leaves, three for the blue and three for the scarlet, would be necessary, and twelve treadles would be required to make the treading alternate. A four leaf tweel, however, would require eight leaves of headles and only eight treadles. The following plans will show the draught and cording of these mountings : THREE LEAF TWEEL. Fig. 45. 1 s^^^ — 1 X X 1 X M X 2 ^^ X ^ X 3 X X ^s= 1 m ■ X 2 =^ X g^^ X 3 t 12 10 8 6 4 2 11 9 7 5 3 1 5^ FOUR LEAF TWEEL. Fi2. 46. X 1 P^^ X 2 X ^ 3 ■ X 4 X ^=! 1 ^ X 2 X ^ 3 X 4 8 6 4 2 7 5 3 1 n « 5 In these plans the crosses X represent sinking cords, and the black squares raising cords. In weaving these shawls two picks of blue and two of scarlet weft are thrown in alternately, the two former on the fore warp, and the two latter on the back warp. 16 122 THE ART OF WEAVING. VELVETS. This species of manufacture having never been introduced into America, lohere corisequently it can he hut little knoivn, some ac- count of it will not, perhaps, be uninteresting to the reader. In these, as in some other branches of fancy weaving, consider- able ingenuity is displayed in the production of patterns, which in general exhibit a variety of flushing or floating peculiar to them- selves. This will be obvious from a perusal of the specimens sub- joined to these descriptions. The ground, or back, as it is generally termed, is sometimes plain, and sometimes tweeled. In the former case it is called a tabby or plain back, and in the latter, a jean or Genoa back, and the jeans are single or double, according as they are v/oven in a three or four leaf tweel mounting. The flushing, Avliich is afterwards cut up to form the ridges or the pile, is thrown in and interwoven with the ground at various intervals, and upon this depends all the diversity of patterns which we see in these fabrics. A few examples will illustrate these observations. Fig. 47 is a PLAIN OR TABBY-BACK VELVET.* Fiff. 47. H 6 4 6 4 2 3 1 5 If we examine this plan we Avill find that the treadle marked 1, or the first in the order of treading, will raise all the odd threads 1, 3. 5, in the draught, and the treadle marked 4 will raise all the even ones ; consequently, these two treadles wrought alternately will produce plain cloth, or in other words, they will work the ground or back. The other three treadles are for the flushing. By tracing over the treading of this figure, it will be found, that there are two picks of the flushing thrown in for each pick of the ground, which are marked 2, 3, 5, 6, in the succession of treading ; the treadle 6, being the same as 3, is added merely to keep the treads alternate when both feet are employed on the treadles. The following plan, Pig 48, is an example of a * When figures are to be formed on velvets, agreeably to any particular pattern, recourse must be had to the Jacquard, or draw loom. See Gil- roy'e loom mountings. VELVETS. 123 SIMPLE JEAN BLACK VELVET CORD. Fig. 48. 1^^^^ " ^L 1 1 O l- — i — j 1 3 ^=s "'"1 ^- — 4 b 6 8 12 6 14 10 13 16 4 7 13 2 5 3 11 1 9 In this plan the treadles on which the figures 1, 3, and 6 are marked, are for weaving- the back, it being the single jean, or three leaf tweel ; but as each pick of the flushing weft floats over five threads of warp, and is only interwoven with the sixth, two sets of tweeling leaves are necessary in order to extend the draught to that range. In the present example we also find, that there are ten picks of flushing weft thrown in for six of the back, and these ten picks are interwoven with the warp threads 3 and 4 in the drauo-ht and the flushed space afterwards cut up by tlie plough or lance. PLUSH VELVET. Plush velvet, or shag, is woven on a principle something different from any of the preceding fabrics. It consists of two warps, one caUed the main warp or ground, which is commonly made of hard silk, and the other the pile warp. These warps are beamed on separate rollers, the latter being placed below the former. When the heading or end of the piece is woven, the weaver raises the pile warp, which is drawn on a separate leaf from the ground, and into this shed he introduces a wire which is longer than the breadth of the cloth ; a few picks of the ground are woven (generally two) and another wire introduced, and so on with a third wire. In each of these wires is a groove, along which the weaver runs the point of a sharp instrument called a trivet, which cuts the pile, and relieves the wires in succession, and the operation is re- peated till the piece is finished. The pile Avarp is commonly made of softer silk than the main warp, or of a fine kind of goat's hair, and the surface of the shag is afterwards cut evenly and smooth with a pair of shears, or a revolving spiral knife. On this principle is woven that fabric of which hats are made. SECTION FOURTH. WEAVING CROSSED WARPS. The species of ornamental weaving which we have now to in- vestigate, is exclusively adapted to the slightest and most flimsy textures. Like the other branches of the art, we derived our first know- ledge of cross weaving from the East ; but, it certainly has been much improved, and a considerable variety of nets have been added, by the invention and ingenuity of European weavers.* * Of course we include amongst these ingenious men, our very learned brother weaver, Dr. Ure of London, a man wlio has not only studied the man- ufacture of " textile fabrics''' to perfection, in all its bearings, but who also, we doubt not, is well acquainted with "Mason on Self-Knowledge." We have observed one fact, however, which is not very honorable to this weaving son of Galen. Surely it could not have diminished the Doctor's fame, although he had given to the public the names of those authors, from whose books he extracted whatever little information he furnishes to the igno- rant, particularly upon weaving. He does not even allude to the work of the late Mr. John Duncan of Glasgow, from which he has taken most of the ob- servations on weaving, contained in the second volume of his " Cotton Manu- factures," commencing at page 264. We refer the reader to Duncan's trea- tise, which was published at Glasgow, in the year 1807. Nearly all the rest of the Doctor's remarks on weaving, he has adapted from Murphy's bed-quilt book, which he (the Dr.) calls "-a most luminous xcork.'''' We suppose that this puffentitled him to copy indiscriminately from Father Murphy, who could be no Irishman, unless he made some sacrifice in return for such blarney. On another occasion, the worthy Doctor says, that Sharp, Roberts & Co., are "the greatest power loom builders in the world, without exception," and that ^^ i\\eiT patent loom is the best in use." These sweeping assertions, how- ever, may be accounted for, when we know, that these mechanics furnished the Dr. with drawings and specifications of their celebrated loom., no doubt expecting that he would give it a first rate notice. But we in this country, and every experienced weaver in England know, that the power looms of Messrs. Sharp, Roberts & Co. are far inferior to many others, as we shall show in the course of this work, and any practical weaver who has conversed with these makers upon the subject, miust acknowledge that they are entirely ignorant of the real principles of weaving. But at present, with regard to the Doctor, we shall " No further seek his merits to disclose, Or draw his frailUes from their dread abode." CROSS WEAVING. 125 The first branch of cross weavmg, and of which all the others are only varieties, is COMMON GAUZE. In all the branches of weaving which we have hitherto con- sidered, the threads of the warp, whether raised or sunk, alternately, or at intervals, remain always parallel to each other, and without crossing. But in gauze weaving, the two threads of warp which pass between the same dents of the reed, are crossed over each other, and twined like a cord at every tread. They are twined to the right and to the left, alternately, and each pick of weft pre- serves the twine which the warp has received. To produce this effect, it is only necessary that the warp should really be crossed at every second pick, for its return from the crossed to the open or parallel state gives the reversed crossing. A representation of a mounting peculiar to gauze weaving will be found in Fig. 49, and a section of the web is shown under the same figure at A.* GAUZE MOUNTING. Fig. 49. Open Shed. St«™Jo«l H'l Fig. 49 represents two threads of warp opened to form the shed, where the warp is not crossed, and Fig. 50, 126 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 50. Crossed Shed. i]l Standard N:L SUttdari, iVLS, the shed where it is crossed. The mounting of a gauze loom con- sists of four leaves, constructed like common clasped headles, and of two half leaves. The leaves are raised and sunk, by means of top levers or coupers, and marches, exactly in the same way as in most other ornamental looms. The opened shed of the gauze is formed by the leaves 3 and 4, (see Fig. 49) the cross shed by the leaves 1 and 2, and by the half leaves. The leaves 1 and 2 are called standards, and the half leaves pass through thera, as is re- presented more clearly in Figs. 51 and 52. Fig. 51. Fig, 52. It is necessary to observe, that in order to produce the twine or gauze twistj as represented at A* under Fig. 49, in forming the CROSS WEAVING. 127 sheds, the threads do not rise and fall alternately, as in plain weav- ing, nor at intervals as in tweeling. In both sheds the thread A is always raised and the thread B sunk ; but in the open shed, Fig. 49, the threads are not crossed, and in the cross shed, Fig. 50, they are. By examining these two figures (49 and 50,) the way of drawing the warp through the headles will become apparent, and this is an important part of every branch of cross weaving. The thread A is drawn through the third leaf, but as it always rises, it is not taken through the clasp, or eye, of the headle, but above it, through what the weavers usually call the upper doup, as at, X'^ Fig. 49. In like manner the thread B, which always sinks, is drawn through the under doup of the fourth leaf as at Y^ Figs. 49 and 50. When this has been done, the thread A is crossed under the thread B, as will appear more plainly in Fig. 53, Fig. 53. which is a horizontal or ground plan. After being drawn through these two leaves, which are generally called the back mounting, it only remains to cross and draw the warp through the fore mount- ing. Of the half leaves, one is hung from above, and one rises from below. The one hung from above passes through the lower doup of the leaf or standard 2, and that from below through the up- per doup of the standard 1. This will appear very plain in Fig. 51. Through the under half leaf connected with the standard 1, the thread A is drawn, (see Fig. 49) and through the upper half leaf connected with the standard 2, the thread B passes, as in Fig. 49. In Figs. 49 and 50, the shaft of the upper half B% appears as hung between the standards 1 and 2, but this is not the usual prac- tice ; for it is found more convenient to place the two standards to- 128 THE ART OF WEAVING. gether, the under half leaf, A% in front of the standard 1, and the upper half, B% behind the standard 2, as in Figs. 51 and 52. By means of the half leaves the alternate crossing of the warp is effected ; for in the open shed (Fig. 49,) the half leaves work in an opposite direction to the standards, and leave room for the warp to rise and sink in the space between the standards, while in the cross shed (Fig. 50) the half leaves rise and sink with their respective standards, and force one thread of warp across the other. Thus, when the warp is direct, the half leaves are crossed, and when the mounting is direct, the warp is crossed. This will plainly appear by carefully tracing the threads A and B in Figs. 49 and 50, and also in Figs. 51 and 52, where sections of the threads are represented by round dots, thus (•.) In Fig. 51 the half leaves and standards are crossed as in Fig. 49. and in Fig. 52 the standard 1 is sunk and the standard 2 raised ; the mounting will be direct and the warp crossed, as in Fig. 50. To render the mode of mounting a gauze loom as plain as possible, we shall enter into a more detailed account of the mounting than appears necessary in those kinds of weaving where the horizontal plans of the draught and cording have been long practised and un- derstood by professional men. The novelty of the subject, and iis^ evident utility, should we succeed in our explanation, will, we hope, screen us from the charge of unnecessary prolixity. It has been already stated, thai the gauze mounting consists of two back leaves, two standards, and two half leaves. These are moved by two treadles. The intermediate levers are five top levers or coupers, five long, and five short marches. Tracing the headles in regular succession from the front, the first is the under half leaf, A% the second the front standard 1, the third the second standard 2, the fourth the upper half leaf, B% the fifth the first back leaf 3, and the sixth the second back leaf 4 (see Fig. 49.) The two back leaves and the two standards are raised, or sunk, as the case may require, by connecting cords with the marches and treadles, as in other looms. The half leaves have no connection with any treadle, but are lifted, and sunk by the warp, in the open shed Fig. 49 ; and they are kept tight by weights in the cross shed 50. These weights must, therefore, operate upon the half leaves in the cross shed, and must be relieved in the open. It wiU be proper to trace the connections of the leaves with the coupers and marches in the first place, and then to explain the way in which the weights are apphed to operate upon the half leaves : CROSS WEAVING. Fig. 54. 129 1st. The lower half leaf, A, (see Fig. 54,) is attached by a cord below to the first short march : it has no connection above. 2d. The first standard is attached by oblique cords W to the first couper above ; the couper, to the first long- march ; the standard is connected below with the second short march. 3d. The second standard, to the second couper above ; the couper, to the second long march ; the standard, to the third short march below. 4th. The upper half leaf, B, to the third couper above ; the couper, to the third long march : no connection below. 5th. The first back leaf 3, to the fourth couper above ; the couper, to the fourth long march ; the leaf 1 to the fourth short march below. 6th. The second back leaf, to the fifth couper above ; the couper, to the fifth long march ; the leaf, to the fifth short march below. These connections being formed, it only remains to apply the 17 130 THE ART OF WEAVING. weights to their respective marches, and to connect the otJier marclies with the treadles. The mode of applying^ the weights will appear in Fig. 54. This figure is a transverse section of the from part of the mounting of a whij) net. of which it will be necessary to treat afterwards. In the mean time, as the cording of a common gauze is exactly the same as that of a whip net. it will serve to illustrate that part of the mounting. The lower leaf, A% (as seen in Fig. 49.) is connected with the first short march. (See Fig. 54.) TJie upper half leaf. B, with the third couper above, and from thence with the third long march. (See Fig. 54.) The application of the weights is therefore as follows : From the first short march two cords descend, one passing on either side of the first long march, and from these cords the Aveight is suspended. Above the long march the cords are attached to each end of a piece of wood, Z. (see Fig. 54.) generally a piece sawed or cut from a common spool, by which they are kept asun- der to prevent them from rubbing on the long march which works between them. Another piece of the same kind, Y. is fixed below, and from this the other weight is suspended. The same appara- tus is applied to the third short march, and passes upon both sides of the third long march, for the upper half leaf "When the open shed is made, the first standard is pulled down ; this raises the first long march, which consequently lifts the weight, and allows the under half leaf, A% (see Fig. 49,) to rise ; at the same time time the second standard is raised ; this, of course, raises the third short march, and relieves the pressure of the weight from the third long march : the upper half leaf, B', is thus allowed to sink. In forming this shed, the standards and half leaves merely yield to the warp, for the raising and sinking are entirely produced by the back leaves (marked 3 and 4, Fig. 49.) From these explanations, and from a careful examination of the Figs. 49, 50, 51, and 52. the general principle of weaving gauze may be pretty well understood. The connections with the treadles wiU be found by examining Fig. 53, which is a horizontal plan, similar to those employed to il- lustrate other branches of wea\ang, particularly dafnask, (of which we shall treat in its proper place.) The warp thread A. which is drawn through the upper doup of the first back leaf 3, (see Fig. 53,) is distinguished by a black oblong mark, on the left side of the thread. The thread B. which is drawn through the under doup of the leaf 4, is distinguished by a white oblong mark, on the right CROSS WEAVING. 131 side of the thread. The draught of the warp thread A through the upper half leaf, b, is also denoted by a white oblong mark on the right side of the thread ; and that through the front half leaf, a, by a black oblong mark on the left of the thread B. The connections for raising the back leaves and standards are indicated by black squares ; and those for sinking them, by white squares or blanks, all of which will be evident by examining the extreme left of the plan (Fig. 53.) Where no connection from the marches to the treadles is necessary, the mark X is used. As the half leaves are raised and sunk by the warp, no mark is used for the cording of them. The open shed is formed by pressing down the treadle 1, the cross shed by the treadle 2 ; the treadle 3 merely reverses the motion of the treadle 2. to enable the weaver to work plain cloth as well as gauze, when he finds it convenient. The alternate motion necessary for plain cloth, is entirely performed by the standards and half leaves, the back leaves remaining stationary in this, as well as in the cross shed. But in this shed it is necessar}'^ to connect the marches with the plain treadle, to keep the half leaves tight when the weights are raised, the fore mounting in the plain shed being exactly in the same situation as in the open shed. From the descriptions now given of gauze weaving, we hope that any weaver of even common perception, who will study them with care and attention, will find little difficulty in mounting a gauze loom /or himself. When the principle of gauze weaving is thoroughly understood, its application to the weaving of fancy nets may be easily acquired. Many varieties of net work are used, but a few which form the groundwork of all the rest, will be sufficient to elucidate the general principle ; and, to use the words of a certain learned doctor of book- making notoriety, " the limits to which it is necessary to restrict this Work, a\t11 not admit of more particular details."* WHIP NET. This net takes its name from the warp being wholly of whip, without any other ground. The term whip is used by weavers to denote a species of warp rolled upon a separate beam to form fancy patterns. In this net the whole warp is of this description ; and, * The principal reason why we are thus restricted is, that we have already extracted from the works of others all the valuable or " luminous'^ informa- tion which they contained about the manufacture of " textile fabrics^ See " Ure's Dictionary," and " History of the Cotton manufactures." 132 THE ART OF WEAVING. therefore, only one beam or roll is required. The mounting of the whip net, hke that of the common gauze, as already described, (see Figs. 49 and 50,) consists of two back leaves, two standards, and two head lams or half leaves. The two back leaves are placed be- hind the reed in the usual way, and the bread lams with their standards are placed in front of the lay, between the race board and the reed, as formerly mentioned. But as glass beads are frequently used instead of eyes in the back leaves also, and these mountings are generally constructed to weave dropped as well as plain nets, the back headles are usually divided into four leaves ; by which the friction is avoided that would be occasioned by the beads being too much crowded together. Fig. 55. is a plan of the whip net mounting, with a specimen of the cloth annexed, both when it is woven plain, and when it is dropped. A and B are the two back leaves, each of which being divided into the other two parts marked 1 and 2 ; C and D are the standards ; and 1 and 2, the half leaves or bead lams, corresponding with the doups and standards of the full gauze mounting, (see Figs. 49 and 50.) The reed, which shows also the position of the lay, is here seen between the back and front mountings. Let the dots on the leaves C and D represent sections of the twine of which the headles CROSS WEAVING. 133 are made, and they will point out the position of the standards. The upper bead lams with their beads, through which the whip threads are drawn, will then appear as passing through the headles or standards on the leaf C, the beads being in front at v ; and the under bead lams will be seen as if rising through their standards on the leaf D, crossing below the others towards the front at x. The marks on the treadles will point out the raising and sinking cords, as in the plain gauze. But the manner in which the bead lams cross in front of the standards will appear to more advantage in Fig. 56. Fig. 56. Here the upper bead lam shaft is marked 1, and its standard C ; the under lam 2, and its standard D, as in Fig. 55. When the open shed is formed, the bead lams assume the position represented in Fig. 56 at X, and v, that is, the bead lam x, on the shaft 2, crosses in front of a standard on the shaft C, and rises on the left of the bead lam V, while the bead lam v, on the shaft 1, crosses in front of a standard on the shaft D, and sinks on the right of x : the threads passing through these two beads, being on the same interval of the reed, this forms the open shed ; which is pointed out by the pick 2 in Fig. 55. Again, in forming the cross shed, the bead v, is drawn close to its standard at ?<, and the bead x, is drawn back to its standard at a, (see Fig. 56,) while the standard D is raised, and C sunk, as in the cross shed of the common gauze, (this shed is marked by the pick 1 in Fig. 55,) and thus the crossings of the whip are effected. 134 THE ART OF WEAVING. It was formerl)^ observed that the back and front mountings of the gauze are placed at about three and a half or four inches apart, that the warp may have sufficient room to twist between them in opening the cross shed. In nets, however, the corresponding cross- ing of the whip takes place in front of the standards, where it is forced nearly into a vertical position. It is therefore necessary that the whip should be slackened more in the cross shed than any other kind of warp, so as to yield freely to the pressure of the cross treadles ; otherwise it would be almost impossible to obtain a shed. The method usually employed for this purpose, both for this and the other nets, is as follows : a o, Fig. 57, Fijr. 57. •2^1 U is a couper suspended from the ceiHng of the weaving room, or from the top of the loom, from the end a, of which a cord descends to the end of a long march n, which is again connected to the cross treadle t. To the other end o, of the lever or couper is tied the cord i, which after taking two turns round the whip roll x, suspends the pace weight 7i. Sometimes a thong or strap of leather is used for that part which goes round the roll, and a little chalk rubbed upon it to prevent it from slipping. Now, it is plain that when the cross 1, is pressed down, it sinks the long march n, and consequently the end a, of the couper. by which tlie other end o, will be raised, and turn the roll round on its axis by the cord i. By this means the whip is slackened, and a greater or smaller range is given to it, to suit any given pattern, merely by shifting the fulcrum or centre of motion farther from, or nearer to the end o, of the couper. CROSS WEAVING. 136 There is another circumstance which requires particular attention in the manufacture of nets, that does not occur in gauze. In the gauze mounting the two threads of each dent of the reed rise and sink between their respective standards and in the cross shed the doups or half leaves are drawn tight by the weights, so as to pass each other without any friction ; especially if the web be properly mounted. In the whip net, however, see Fig. 56, the bead lams project beyond their opposite standards ; and, therefore, were the weights allowed to act upon them with their whole force, they would be drawn so tight or close to their standards, as to prevent the beads from tumbling, as it is termed ; or the cross shed from opening freely. On the other hand, were the bead lams too slack, the fric- tion occasioned by the tumbling of the beads would soon prove de- structive to the standards, besides being hable to get frequently en- tangled among the warp. To prevent both of these inconveniences, each bead lam shaft is connected at each end to the opposite shaft of its respective standard, by a piece of twine called a bridle, as re- presented at, m,, n, in Fig. 56. By means of these bridles the weaver can temper the front mounting as he pleases, as they are made with snitches, the same as those on the treadle cords of looms for tweeling. Sometimes the under bead lam shaft is bridled to the end of the couper of the front standard, by which method the bridles are kept clear of the shuttle. In general the bead lams project through their standards, when the mounting is stationary, about a quarter of an inch ; but every weaver tempers his bridles to such a degree of tension as may best suit the state of his mounting. It may be further observed of nets in general, that the weaving motions should be very slow, uniform, and steady. The sheds are opened by a gradual pressure of the foot upon the treadles, without any sudden jerks, which would cut the whip, and in a short time ruin the mounting. At the same time, the lay is worked with a steady motion, while the shed is opening. The shuttle is driven through the sheds with equal caution, lest it should dip or get en- tangled among the bead lams or standards. This, however, is in a great measure prevented by pins of brass wire driven into the lay, immediately behind the race board, along which the shuttle runs, instead of the reed as in other kinds of weaving. After the pick has been thrown into the shed, the treadle is relieved in the same gentle way, by which the weights have sufficient time to act upon the bead lams, and keep them in a uniform degree of tension, while the lay is brought forward with the same steady motion to the face of the cloth. 136 THE ART OF WEAVING. It is also of the greatest importance that all the cordings be pro- perly tempered ; which, with due attention, will be easily effected by means of the snitch knot,* which must be well known to every practical weaver. As the crossing of the whip in net weaving necessarily produces considerable friction, a greater power is requisite to be exerted on the cross treadle than in any other species of Hght fabrics : for this reason, the treadles are placed below the warp roll, and the weaver works on the ends towards him, by which he gains the whole of the lever power. SPIDER AND MAIL NETS. These two nets are woven in the same mounting, and have the same relation to each other as the gauze and lino. The mounting is merely that of the common gauze, which is here called the ground, combined ^vith that of the whip net, with which the ground is interwoven. The gauze part of the mounting, and the back leaves of the net, are placed behind the reed ; and the two bead lams and their stand- ards are before it, as in tlie preceding mounting, (Fig. 55.) Either of the methods for reducing the number of leaves, formerly ex- plained, may be adopted for the ground ; although the full mount- ing is generally preferred : for, with the full mounting only two warp rolls are necessary, one for the ground and the other for the whip, while either of the former methods require two for the ground, that one-half of the warp may yield a little more than the other while the cross shed is forming. The Spider net is woven with two treadles which produce the texture of plain gauze, interwoven with the whip : the mail net re- quires only the addition of a plain treadle on which every fourth pick of weft is thrown, as in Fig. 58. * This is merely a modification of the slip knot, known to Irishmen under the name of G'Doherty's, or the hangman's noose. CROSS WEAVING. SPIDER NET. Fig. 58. 137 is a plan of this mounting, with specimens of the varieties it pro- duces, in which the different crossings of the ground and whip may- be easily traced. The back leaves of the gauze are marked 1 and 2, the standards A and B, and the doups, a and c. The back leaves of the net are marked 3 and 4, and these are all behind the reed as formerly noticed. In the front, between the race board and the reed, are placed the whip standards C and D, with their respec- tive bead lams, v and x. The position of the whip standards, with respect to the threads of warp, is pointed out by dots on the shafts C and D, one on each side of its respective bead lam ; these lams appear in the fig. as if a little slackened by the open shed, and crossing each other in front of the standards, exhibit the whip threads passing through the beads at, v and x, (see Fig. 58.) The crossing of the bead lams, when the open shed is fully formed, will appear to more advantage in Fig. 56, the threads of gauze warp being in the position of the letters, v and x. By comparing this plan with those of the gauze (Figs. 49 and 50) and whip net (Fig. 55) considered separately, the process of taking the warp through the headles and tying up the treadles will be obvious, and can require no further explanation ; for each of the 18 138 THE ART OF WEAVING. mountings are tied to the treadles in the same order as if they had been mounted separately. It may be necessary to observe, however, that when the full gauze mounting is employed, as in the present example, or when the back doup and standard are omitted, each treadle will produce similar sheds in both mountings ; that is to say, either both open or both cross, but when the gauze part is mounted with the bead lam and standard, it is necessary to cord the treadles so as to produce the open shed of the gauze along with the cross shed of the whip ; otherwise the whip would not run in between the threads of gauze warp to form the net distinctly as represented in the specimen. (See Fig. 58.) The apparatus for slackening the whip in the cross shed, as well as the bridles for preventing the bead lams from being drawn too close to their standards, are also necessary in this mounting, and are applied in the very same manner as in the whip net, PATENT NET, OR NIGHT THOUGHT. This net, like the preceding, consists of a gauze ground inter- woven with whip. Two sets of mounting are therefore requisite, one for the ground and the other for the whip or net part ; but, as this net involves greater variety than any of those already explained, it requires four treadles to work one set of the pattern. Either the full mounting or one of the contracted methods may be employed for the gauze part, and the whip requires two back leaves, and two bead lams and their standards. When the full gauze mount- ing is employed three warp rolls are requisite, one for the ground and two for the whip. These last are necessary, as one half of the whip is occasionally crossed while the other half is straight and parallel, and consequently each half must be slackened indepen- dently of the other. When the gauze part is woven either with the bead lam shaft, or by omitting the upper doup and standard, two rolls are also necessary for the ground, as formerly described. Some add another roll for the selvages, which, being woven plain without any twist, do not work up equally with the other warp. This, however, is commonly avoided by beaming the selvages on the same roll Avith the ground, and suspending a small weight to each below the roll to keep them moderately tight, and the slack part is taken in at the face of the cloth, when necessary, at the end of the piece. CROSS WEAVING. 139 PATENT NET, OR NIGHT THOUGHT. Fiff. 59. is a plan of the night thought mounting, with a specimen of the cloth, as in the other examples. The shafts marked 1 and 2 are the back leaves for the gauze part, the back leaves for the whip being marked 3 and 4. 5, 6, 7 and 8 are the doups and standards of the ground mounting, which in this example is a full mounting ; the bead lams and their standard which are before the threads are marked, a, e, i, o, and are placed exactly in the same position as in the other mountings for net weaving. 140 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 60, is a front elevation of the bead lams and their standards, represent- ing their position when the open sheds are formed ; a, is the shaft of the upper bead lams, and o, that of the under ones ; e, and t, are the back and fore standards respectively. In the shed here ex- hibited, which is opened by the treadle marked 4, (see Fig. 59) both the upper and under lams are slack, and after crossing two dents of gauze and one of whip, the former are sunk and the latter raised by the whip which is now acted upon entirely by the back leaves. That is, the upper lams cross from their standards at m, to the interval x, where they are sunk ; and the under ones from d, to c, where they are raised (see Fig. 60.) The treadle 2 (see Fig. 59) draws both the upper and under lams tight to their standards, by which the former are sunk and the latter raised ; at the same time the ground forms the open shed. In the shed formed by trea- dle 1, the upper lams are tight and sunk by their standards, while the under ones are slack and raised by the whip, the ground form- ing the cross shed. All this will plainly appear by an attentive pe- rusal of the two Figs. 59 and 60 PRINCESS ROYAL NET. This net is woven in a mounting the very same as that of Night Thought, but with a small difference in the order of taking the whip through the headles and tying up the treadles. But as these are distinctly marked on the plan Fig. 61. CROSS WEAVING. Fig. Gl. L41 they can require no further explanation. Fig. 62 Fiff. 62. shows the crossing of the bead lams in the open shed in the same manner as in the preceding net. 142 THE ART OF WEAVING. DROPPED NETS. The whip and mail nets are frequently ornamented with a va- riety of figures, which are formed on the cloth merely by preventing the crossings of certain portions of the whip, for one or more picks of weft, which leaves open spaces in the ground larger than the common meshes of the net ; this may be effected either by prevent- ing part of the upper bead lam whip from sinking, or of the under bead lam whip from rising, in the open shed, by means of additional back leaves applied for that purpose. These examples, it is presumed, will be sufiicient to explain the nature and process of net weaving, and to show that by changing the order of the draught, cording and treading, considerable variety may be produced in these fabrics. SECTION FIFTH. FIGURED WEAVING. We've heard of labyrinths and gordian knots, And other things which try your men of skill ; But here we for a time shall turn our thoughts To something even more complicated still. Having described in the preceding sections the elementary princi- ples of weaving, and developed some of their most useful combina- tions, with the necessary illustrations to make them perfectly under- stood, it now devolves upon us to show how these principles may be extended beyond the scope of leaves of headles, by aid of the draw loom, DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAW LOOM. Fig. 63. is a front elevation of the common draw loom. The frame AA is called the carriage, fi-ora its use in supporting the harness ; and rests on the capes of the loom, which are seen in section at A'^A^ On the top of this frame is fixed the pulley box E'^ which contains the 144 THE ART OF WEAVING. pulleys over ■which the tail cords run when any part of the harness is raised to form a shed, or sheds. This box, a hoiizontal -view of which is given m Fig. 64, Fig. 64. is placed in a slanting position sufficient to aUow the tail cords BB to sink m opening the sheds, without olistniction from the frame or pulleys below. The harness is composed of the following parts ; namely, the neck t^\*ines, wliich extend from the neck of the harness, as pomted out by the figures of reference 1, 2, 3, 4. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, to the knots at EE ; the sleepers,* which connect the neck twines with the mails at DD : the mails, which are the substitutes for the eyes of headles, tlu-ough which the warp tlireads are drawn, and of which a more distinct view will be found in Fig. 65 ; Fig. 65. * The name usually given to that part of the cords or mountings which passes through the board CC, commencing at the knots EE, and ending at the mails DD. DRAW LOOM. 145 the t\\dnes, that connect the mails and leads or weights at XX, called hangers, to sink the mails after they have been raised to form the shed or sheds. CC is the hole board,* through which the sleepers pass ; and this regulates the distance of the mails and the fineness of the harness. The face of this board is represented in Fig. 66. Fiz. 66. A in which it will be observed that the holes for the harness twines run m oblique hnes, that the mails may have suflftcient room to stand directly opposite to their respective intervals of the reed, with- out being too much crowded together. The reed and harness board, therefore, must be of the same set or fineness ; or should a harness board of a finer set than the reed be at any time employed, the supernumerary holes must be left empty at regular intervals and in complete rows, as in the method followed by weavers in set- ting their headles. It may be observed, however, that although the sets of reeds in America be calculated on 37 inches, yet the sets of the harness board are comprised in 36, so that in 37 inches of the harness board there will be the number of dents contained in one inch of any given set more than in the same breadth of the reed. As each part or di\asion into which the harness is tied begins always with a complete row of the harness board, this addition is made as an allowance for any holes that may be left empty at the ends of such parts as are not multiples of five. Thus were the harness to be tied into such parts as 100, 105, 110, 115, &c., mails, every part would exactly fill a certain number of rows in the harness board when there were five in each row : but in a tie of 102, for instance, * Called hole board from the fact of its being pierced with a great number of holes ; a clearer view of which will be had in Fig. 66. Scotch weavers often call it by the name of " holy brod ;" but the words holy and righteoiis being almost synonymous, we think the latter of these terms quite as appli- cable as the former ; however, we shall excuse these broad Scotchmen, aa they are, no doubt, a very holy people. Among Yorkshiremen, the appella- tion of " cumber boord" is used for this part of the loom, from the circum- stance of its being much encumbered with strings, &c. : but, for our part, we would prefer the Yankee name of "harness board.'- 19 146 THE ART OF WEAVING. there would be three holes left empty at the end of each part ; which, consequently, would make the harness considerably broader than the reed, were it not for the above allowance. It may be further re- marked, that, although in the present example there are only five holes in each oblique row in the board, which is the number appro- priated to four thread harnesses, yet in dent and full harnesses, where a greater number of mails must necessarily occupy the same space, the number of holes in each row is extended to ten, and in French shawl looms even sometimes to thuty-two.* From these observations it will evidently appear, that two mails will stand oppo- site to one interval of the reed in a full harness ; one in a spht or dent harness ; and in a four thread harness, one mail will occupy the space of two dents or splits of the reed. From the tail at W descends the simple cords F F, or as they are termed collectively the simple, down to the floor at Z, where they are fastened. It is on this part of the draw loom that the pattern is read on from the design paper. The twines at 1 1 1 are termed the lashes, and are necessary for separating the simples of any shed which is to be opened from those that remain stationary ; N N N are the heads to which the lashes are attached, and are made to run or slide with a noose on the gut cord L, at pleasure. The gut cord commonly extends from the roof of the shop to the floor, (as shown in Fig. 63,) parallel to the simple. KK are the bridles, which being connected with the lashes at equal distances, draw them down in succession as they are wanted by the draw boy. The number of mails necessary to produce one set of a pattern, make what is denominated a pari, or the tie of the harness ; and as every mail in one part must rise independently of the others, each must have its respective cord both in the tail and simple ; so that the greater the range of the pattern, the greater will be the number of simple cords. Hence it is evident, that were a harness to be tied in one part only, there Avould be a tail and simple cord for each mail in the width of the web. But as patterns of this ex- tent are not very common, it is usual to divide the harness into such a number of parts as may be most suitable to that species of goods on which it is to be employed, and these parts are repeated to make up the full width. By this means the number of tail and simple cords, together with * Our friend, Monsieur Dioudonnat, of No. 12 Rue St. Maur, Paris, (France) generally pierces his harness boards with thirty-two holes in the row (in breadth.) DRAW LOOM. 147 tlie pulleys, will be diminished in propoition as the number of parts in a given harness are increased. It is also obvious, that as each simple cord is connected, by means of its tail cord, to a correspond- ing mail in each part, the pattern which is produced will be merely the same group of figures, repeated as often as there are parts in the harness or mounting. MOUNTING THE LOOM. When a harness is to be constructed, as it is termed, a frame, such as is represented in Fig. 67. Fig. 67. must be procured ; and the two upright sides, AA are fastened to the inside of the loom, one on each side, and in the very same posi- tion between the cloth and the warp rolls, which the harness is afterwards to occupy. The cross bar of wood or slab stock A" A", slides up and down in grooves cut in these side pieces, and may be fixed with small bolts at any given height, to suit the position of the mails after the harness is tied. In the upper edge of the slab stock, which is somewhat rounded, is a groove into which the under ends of the mails are inserted during the process of mounting the harness. 14S THE ART OF WEAVING. This frame being thus adjusted, the operator proceeds to hang the leads, or connect them to their respective mails. This is effected b}' taking one end of the harness twine, cut of the proper length, through the under hole of the mail, and again through the upper end of the lead ; after which both ends of the twine are stretched down below the slabstock, one on each side, where they are knotted, and the knot shpped down to the top of the lead, so as to be clear of the warp when the sheds are opened ; the distance between the mail and the lead being about nine inches. A more durable method of hanging the leads, however, is to take both ends of the twine through the hole of the lead, and then turning them backward, one on each side, to knot them together. These twines or hangers are made of flaxen yarn, from three to nine ends laid togetlier. and must be well twisted. The harness leads are made by cutting a piece of sheet lead into long square slips, and afterwards di-awing them through circular holes of different diameters in a steel plate, till reduced to the re- quisite size ; after the manner of drawmg other metaUic wires. They are afterwards cut off to the proper lengths : and the weight suitable for any harness is estmiated by the number of these pieces in a pound. Thus, for the borders of shawls in the cotton manu- facture the leads are ftom fourteen to sixteen mches long, and those for the bosom or body from eight to ten. The weight of leads for a four thread liarness will be about foiu-teen in the pound for the borders, if intended for shawls : and from forty-five to fifty-five for the bosoms, bemg, however, governed according to the number of parts into which the harness is tied : for the greater the number of parts, the more leads will be attached to each simple cord ; and there- fore, they must be proportionably lighter, and the contrary. The leads for the borders of a two thread shawl are the same as those of the four thread, provided the borders are not gathered ; but for gathered lx)rders, wliich have double the number of threads attached to each smiple cord, they are from twenty to twenty-five in the pound, and of the same length as the fourteen to the pound. The bosom or body leads are from fifty to sixty in the pound, according to the number of parts in a given breadth of the harness and the nimiber of lashes requisite for the pattern ; for, it is evident that the more lashes there are on the smiple. the greater will be the friction on the suiiple cords in passing through them ; and consequently the leads must be heavier to sink the mails after being raised. Full harnesses, in general, require leads fi-om eighty to a hundred in the pound for the bodies of shawls, but if the parts into which they are DRAW LOOM. 149 tied be numerouSj the leads are sometimes used as light as a hun- dred and ten. When the leads are all hung-, and the vmder ends of the mails inserted in the grooves of the slabstock, a piece of strong wire, (flat- tened by passing it between a reed maker's rollers,) is run through their eyes, by means of which they are all kept at the same uniform height. The wire is then lied firmly to the slabstock with pieces of strong twine, at such distances as are sufficient to prevent the wire from bending, or allowing any portion of the mails to rise higher than the others while tying the neck ; all of which process will be apparent by referring to Fig. 67. When the sleepers are taken through the upper holes of their re- spective mails they are divided mto the parts or portions in which the harness is to be tied. The holes in the harness board are then counted off for each part or pattern, commencing with the hole nearest the right hand selvage ; which, if a right hand harness^ will be in the front, as at Fig. 66 ; but in the backmost row on the board, if a left hand harness. Changing the position of this hole from the front to the back row is effected merely by turning up the other face of the harness board. Then, if the part be composed of any number of fives, as 30, 35, 50, &;c. six, seven, ten, &c. of the oblique rows are set off for each part respectively ; but if the part is not divisible by five, as for example the number 64 ; then, there must be thirteen oblique rows appropriated to each part, which will leave one hole empty at the end of each, as was formerly observed. The sleepers are now taken up through the harness board in regular succession. The board is next fixed very firmly in the centre of the loom, exactly in the same situation in which it is afterwards to remain, and at the height of about 8^ inches above the maUs. The sleepers, which are made of the same twine as the hangers, are in length, firom the mails to the knots above the harness board, about 15^ inches. The position of the harness in the loom will depend in a great measure on the nature of the work in which it is to be em- ployed. Thus, for example, a pressure harness must stand further than a full harness fi-om the breast-beam ; which is that wooden bar over which the cloth passes to the receiving roll. The common distance of a pressure harness from the breast-beam is about twenty- two inches ; and a full harness eighteen inches ; and of a seeding harness, which in general is placed before the ground leaves about twelve inches. The height of the mails in a full harness is about three-fourths of an inch below the level of the breast-beam ; in the 150 THE ART OF WEAVING. split and four thread harness the mails should stand about one inch and a quarter below this level, and to these respective heights the harness board must be accurately adjusted. The mails being now divided into parts, the sleepers of the first part are laid over the edge of the harness board on one side, and those of the second on the other, and so on alternately, that each part may be kept distinct from the others ; then the twine or sleeper attached to each mail, being now double, is knotted to its respective neck twine ; which must be cut of a length sufficient to reach from these knots to the ends of the tail cords at the neck. This process is called heeting the harness. These neck twmes are made of three ends of flax yarn, well twisted, and weigh from two and a half to five and a half ounces per hank of four cuts : the coarse twine being employed for those harnesses which are divided into the fewest parts. These neck twines, however, wall vary in length according to the widtli of the harness. For example, for a harness fifty-four inches wide, the neck twines may be five feet six inches long. In the process of beeting the harness the snitch knot used on the treadle cords in tweehng, (fee. is mostly employed, to enable the weaver to adjust any of the twines that may have been slacker or tighter tied than the others ; and this is efiected when the neck twines are single, which is commonly the case for hght fabrics, by casting a loop knot on one end and formmg it into a snitch, through which the two ends of the sleeper are taken and knotted in the usual way, to prevent them from shppmg. In some harnesses, however, which are intended for stouter fabrics, the neck tv\Tnes are taken double through the hole board ; in which case the two ends of the sleeper are tied together, and formed into a snitch, into which the two ends of the neck twine are inserted, and afterwards knotted. Before the operator can proceed further, the tail must be warped ; which is effected by winding the twine round two nails or pins, fixed in the wall of a house at a distance from each other equal to the whole length of the tail, and this is commonly about eighteen feet ; thoiigh some tails are now made as short as fourteen. This part of the draw loom is made of what is termed by the spinners of tliis article, unlaid twine, a quaUty which prevents it from untwist- ing after it is tied to the neck twines of the harness. "When the requisite number of tail cords, which must always be equal to the ninuher of snails that are to rise independently of each other, are thus laid together, a lease, as in warping, (see Fig. 3, Section 1st.) is formed at one end, and the loops cut at the other ; at the lease end the loops are separated into small parcels, com- DRAW LOOM. 151 monly five in each, and formed into snitches, by which they are fastened at equal distances round the tail stick so that they may stand nearly equal to the breadth of tlie tail. This piece of Avood or tail stick is fastened to the ceiling of the shop where the tail ter- minates. The other ends of the tail cords are taken through the pulley box, with the assistance of a small hook, in the following order : supposing the tail cords to be numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, from the bottom of the back row at A to the top at B, (see Fig. 64,) then the first ten cords will pass over the pulleys from 1 to 10 respectively; the second ten cords over the pulleys 11 to 20 ; the third ten over 21 to 30 : and so on, always commencing each row of pulleys at the lower part of the box A." All these arrange- ments being made, and a wooden frame called mounters or justers, such as that employed in mounting leaves with coupers, is fixed to the cape of the loom and over the tail at W, to keep the cords equally tight and at the proper angle, the harness is then ready for tying. In the plan of a harness Fig. 63, it will be observed, that there are ten mails numbered on the edge of the harness board, which is repeated four times, indicating that the harness is tied in four parts of ten mails each, which supposes only one row of holes in the har- ness board. But as there are five such holes in the board Fig. 66, though, to save room in the representation, there are only sixteen oblique rows, the harness may be calculated upon fifty mails for each part, which, though still on a limited scale, will be sufficient to explain the principles upon which the draw loom is mounted. Either one or more assistants, as the extent of the harness may re- quire, are stationed at the side of the harness board, to take up the twines in the order in which they occur, and hand them to the per- son who ties the neck. In this example the right hand twine of each part is selected and given to the operator, who ties all these four twines to the tail cord numbered 1, or that which passes over the first pulley in the box, as already mentioned. By the time this is tied the second twine of each part in succession is ready to be handed up, which the operator ties to the second tail cord marked 2, and so on with the others till the fifty be tied ; which, in this ex- ample, occupy one half of the box. (See Fig. 64.) It must still be remembered, however, that when the first ten tail cords are tied which complete the first row of pulleys, the operator must again commence at the bottom of the box, as at first. The knot here employed is formed by taking the four neck twines in one hand and the end of the tail cord in the other ; then. 152 THE ART OF WEAVING. laying the former over the latter, he takes the turn of a knot on the upper part of the tail cord, or that immediately above the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, in the drawing Fig. 63, with the part which he holds in his hand ; then another knot round the same with the ends of the neck twines. The principal care to be taken in tying the neck is, that the twines from the different parts be equally tight, and that the knots be all in the same horizontal hne, sufficiently far below the pulleys to prevent their coming in contact when any part of the harness is raised to form the shed or sheds. To assist the operator in this, he places a rule or scale along the inside of the carriage, in the posi- tion U O, in a hne with one edge of which he ties his knots ; and this scale he shifts forward as each row of cords is tied. On the same scale are marked the distances at which the ends of the tail cords should descend vertically, so that the harness may hang per- fectly plumb in the loom after it is completed. Before the tying commences, however, a lead is suspended by a piece of twine from the centre of the pulley box E, to which the centre of the harness is accurately adjusted : or, which is more accurate, two leads are sus- pended, one over the fifth, and the other over the sixth pulley, at the centre of the box, counting from the bottom, and half the distance between these will be the position of the centre of the harness board. The next process is to warp and apply the simple, which is pre- pared in every respect in the same manner as the tail, though only about six feet ten inches or seven feet long, less or more, according to the height of the shop : it has also a lease, formed at its lower end, for the convenience of selecting the cords when required : this lease, however, is merely temporary, being retained no longer than while the simple is tying to the tail ; from which it can at any time be recovered when it again becomes necessary. The operator now ties each cord of the simple to its corresponding tail cord at W, (see Fig. 63) each of the cords being readily found in succession from its respective place in the lease. In order, however, that the knots of the smiple may not be too much crowded on the tail, the simple cords are usually tied in two, or three, or more rows, ac- cording to the number of cords which it contains, as represented at W in the Fig. The simple is made of what is termed laid twine, which dis- tinguishes it from that of the tail, and weighs from twenty to twenty-seven hanks in the pound, but in every other respect it is DRAW LOOM. 153 the same as the tail twine formerly described, consequently one hank will produce twenty simple cords seven feet long. The lashes I I I are formed by taking the lash twine around certain portions of the simple cords as explained under the head of reading or lashing the pattern, Fig. 70, and which, as formerly noticed, serve to select the cords of each particular shed. Each turn of the lash twine round any part of the simple is called a tack, and the whole number of tacks requisite for one shed constitute a lash. Lash twine is now commonly made of cotton yarn, about No. 48, water twisted, and from six to eighteen plies laid together, and moderately twisted ; for too much twist causes the twine to curl on the simple and obstruct the draw boy's progress. The twine com- posed of the greater number of ends is chiefly employed for stout fabrics, or when only few lashes are requisite for the pattern ; but the more lashes there are on the simple the finer is the kind of twine which is applied, to occupy less space, as well as to afford the draw boy sufficient room to work. The length of the lashes, exclusive of the heads, is commonly from eight to tAvelve inches, according to the breadth of the simple ; for were short lashes, for example, to be employed on a broad simple, the simple cords on each side would be drawn into an oblique posi- tion by the draw boy's hand, before they could be brought to act along with those in the centre, and consequently form a very irre- gular shed. The heads NNN are small pieces of twine, which, as formerly observed, connect the lashes together and the gut cord on which they are made to slide up or down at pleasure ; each lash having its respective head. These heads are made of foot twine when only few lashes are necessary, but of snitch twine when they are more numerous. The length of twine requisite for each head is from nine to ten inches ; and when the two ends are laid together and knotted, the length in the double state will be from four to four and a half inches. The head is taken through a snitch formed by the loops of the lash, and is prevented from slipping by the knot on the end. On the loop end is formed a noose which runs on the gut cords. The bridles K K, which are tied to the heads for the purpose of drawing the lashes down or up in regular succession, are made of snitch twine, and are commonly from nine to thirteen inches be- tween the heads ; the longer ones being necessary where the draw boy employs what is termed a dog or devil. 20 154 THE ART OF WEAVING. The gut cord L which extends from the floor to the ceihng of the shop, or at least to the height of the tail, is generally composed of three, four, five, or more smaller cords, laid together without any twist. Those made of cotton are preferred to those made of flax or hemp, on account of its softness, and having less tendency to cut the heads of the lashes. For the smaller sized patterns, which require only a few lashes, one gut cord is fully sufiicient ; but when the lashes become more numerous it is customary to have two, and the heads are attached to them alternately, as represented in Fig. 68. Fig. 68. Moreover, aU covered work requires additional gut cords, one for each cover or colour. When four or more gut cords would be necessary, however, it is now common to employ only two, and to put on the lashes with cross bridles. These wiU be easily understood by referring to Fig. 69, Fig. 69. in which W, and X are two gut cords, placed at the distance of eleven or thirteen inches from each other, according to the number of covers or variety of colours in the pattern : the cross bridles ex- tend horizontally from A to E or from D to O between the two gut cords, on which they can be shifted up and down by the draw boy at pleasure. They are made of seine twine, two ends laid together, and a knot tied for fixmg the head of each colouring lash, at the distance of one inch from each other ; those at the end being about two inches from their respective gut cords, as represented in Fig. 69, DRAW LOOM. 155 by the Figs, of reference, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Thus, if the lash at 1 were for green, at 2 for dark blue, at 3 for red, at 4 for yellow, and at 5 for light blue, then, when the draAv boy takes down the cross bridle D O, on which there are lashes for all the five colours, and which he draws in succession, beginning with the lash 1 for the green, 2 for the dark blue, 3 for the red, 4 for the yellow, and 5 for the light blue : he then shifts down this cross bridle, and replaces it with the one marked A E : but on this the lash 4, for the yellow is wanting, so that he has only the lashes 1, 2, 3 and 5 to draw in succession on this bridle, for the green, dark blue, red, and light blue, respectively. By referring again to Fig. 63 it will be observed, that as the twines incline from the harness board to the neck in very different angles, those towards the selvages, especially if broad harnesses, being much more oblique than those near the centre ; it will follow, that when any portion of the simple cords is drawn down to form a shed, all the mails cannot rise to the same elevation ; and, there- fore, the sheds thus formed will be not only very irregular, but in many cases wholly impervious to the shuttle. To obviate this in- convenience, two wooden rollers are placed in each space between the rows of tail cords at the neck, or at the knots 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10, one on each side of a row. and the ends of these rollers turn on two pieces of wood, one fixed on each side of the carriage at U O. By this means all the harness twines, however oblique, will rise vertically between the rollers, and consequently all the mails will be raised to the same uniform height in opening the sheds. When the harness and all its appendages are completed, it is dis- engaged from the frame in which it was built ; the frame of wood or justers which was fixed above the tail at W removed ; the wire drawn out of the mails ; and the slabstock taken out of the hangers. But in order to preserve the progressive order of the mails for draw- ing in the warp, a shaft or rod must be introduced into the place of the slabstock before it is taken out ; by which means the mails will come to the weaver's hand in regular succession as, he has occasion for them in entering his warp, without the necessity of having re- course to the harness board. The harness should now retain the very same position which it occupied while fixed in the frame, both with respect to the height of the mails and their distance from the yarn roll and breast-beam. The process of drawing the warp through a harness does not differ from that formerly explained under tweeling. Figs. 18, 21, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 and 32 (which see ;) always drawing the 156 THE ART OF WEAVING. tirst thread on the back leaf, and so on to the front until the leaves of headles have been gone over ; beginning again at the back leaf and drawing towards the front, and repeating the operation until the whole warp be entered. This is the case always in shawls, damask, and many other kinds of weaving. After the warp is taken through the harness, however, a new lease must be forced through the eyes or mails, from the rods behind, for the pui-pose of taking it through the ground leaves. When the tail of a harness extends across the shop on the weaver's right hand, while on his seat, as in the example Fig. 63, it is termed a right hand harness ; but, were the situation of the loom to require it to be tied on the opposite side of the shop, it would then be denominated a left hand harness ; aU the tail and smiple cords would retain their relative positions and connections, only what is here the top of the pulley box would become the bottom, and the right hand side of the simple in the present case would be- come the left. This distinction must be particularly attended to in reading the pattern on the simple ; which will be further explained under the head of reading or lashing jjatterns. It may be again observed, that in Fig. 63 the tying of the har- ness commenced at one side, or at the figure 1 in the harness board in each part, and continued in regular succession till finished. This is the most common form of the harness, though other varie- ties are occasionally adopted. Had, for example, the mails num- bered 1 in the two parts on the right, and those numbered 10 in the two parts on the left, been tied to the first tail cord or that marked 1 at the neck, and the others in regular order from the out- sides toward the centre, this would be denominated a gathered harness ; and would produce this effect, that whatever positions the patterns assumed in the two right hand parts, they would stand re- versed on the other two ; or, if stripes were to run diagonally from the right side in the former two, they would change theii- direction in the two latter, and meet in the centre of the web. In harnesses of this kind, however, it wall always be found advantageous to ter- minate the tying with an odd mail in the centre, which prevents the appearance of teething.* Again, were the same example (Fig. 63) to be taken for the bosom of a shawl, and that a border of fifty mails were to be added, it is obvious that an additional tail and simple of fifty cords each would be requisite ; which would exactly fill the pulley box repre- * A double point. DRAW LOOM. 157 sented in Fig. 64 ; and the tie of the harness would be said to be fifty border and fifty body. In this case the fifty pulleys in the back part of the box at A, B, C, D, would be appropriated to the border, and the remaining fifty to the body. In tying a harness for shawls of this kind, the operator may commence either with the border or body. If he begin with the border the tail cord which passes over the first pulley, number 1 in Fig. 64, is tied at the first neck twine of each border or those at the extremities of the harness board at A and E (Fig. 66.) The second tail cord is tied to the second neck twine of each border, counting from the two selvages, and so on with the others till the borders be tied ; observing, as formerly directed, that when the first ten cords in the pulley box are tied, to commence the second ten at the bottom of the box, and consequently the border will end at C. After the border is tied, the body begins with the tail cord which passes over the fifty-first pulley or the first in the body part, C, D, E, F, and proceeds in every respect as has been already ex- plained. Had the tying commenced wdth the body, the process would have begun with the tail cord which passes over the first pulley at the corner of the box, or that which was last in the preceding method, and proceeded on in the contrary direction till finished ; and then the border would begin with that tail cord which passes over the first pulley at the left hand in the sixth row, counting from the front ; and in this case the harness twines nearest the selvages would be the last tied. Hence it is evident, that in tying the borders the right hand mail on one side, and the left hand mail on the other, are connected to the first tail cord ; the second of each in succession, to the second tail cord, ^ Gfl :sl The wire or chain J (see Fig 80) connects the arm H wnih the treadle K, which treadle is distinct from those used for working the 1S2 BARREL LOOM. ground. Hence, when any shed is to be opened, the weaver pulls down the corresponding lash, thereby drawing the knot cords at- tached to it. between the teeth of the comb F. as before stated : he then presses down the treadle K with his left foot, keeping it pressed until he has worked over the ground treadles, with his right foot, and given the proper number of picks for that change of the pat- tern. There is also another guide board, marked L, through which all the perpendicular cords E pass, and it is in all respects hke that marked A Fig. SI. The comb F is recovered or counterbalanced to its resting place every tune the weaver lifts his foot from off the treadle K. by means of the weight M and cord X. which cord pas- ses into the comb F and is made fast by a knot at O. There is also another knot P on this cord, for preventing the weight M from sinking the comb F too low tmder the knot E :, all this will be seen to greater advantage in the enlarged section Fig. 84. The cords of the lash bobs D have each a knot, which, when the bob is pulled down, is shpped under a saw cut or groove in the board Q., a more perfect view of which is given in Fig. S3. As many of the simple cords B are connected to each of the bob cords as are required to form one lash or change of the pattern, and of course, there must be as many bobs as there are changes in the figme. We would remark, that in Fig. SO, ordy one mail S and one lead T are shown, to avoid confusion : but the harness does not differ in construction from that represented in Figs. 63 and 85. SECTION SIXTH. BARREL OR CYLIXDER LOOM. The next improvement in weaving that merits our attention, is that of the barrel or cyhnder loom, the invention of which is claimed by one Thomas Morton, of Kilmarnock, Scotland. This improve- ment consists in using a barrel or c5-hnder, on the surface of which, the figure or pattern to be produced in the cloth is arranged in re- lief, precisely in the same way as tunes are disposed on the barrel of the common organ, or on that of a musical box, by inserting wire THE ART OF WEAVING. 183 staples or wooden pins, and the barrel being placed upon the top of the loom, these staples actuate other suitable mechanism, and thus the pattern is formed upon the cloth. ^ Fig. 87 F3g92 Fig. 85 represents a fi-ont view of this loom, as it appears when the shed is formed. A is the barrel ; B a spur wheel fastened to its 184 THE ART OF WEAVING. end by the screws C C : this wheel, by means of proper catches and other machinery, to be hereinafter described, governs the rota- tion of the barrel A, so as to give out a hne on its surface at each change of the pattern, equal to one line of the design paper, as rep- resented in Fig. 86, which figure shows a plan of the barrel A, with the pattern or sprig D drawn upon its surface ; E is the slides ; F the connecting cords, and G the slide roller : the latter having a leather strap H nailed to it, in order that the cords F may be fast- ened thereto, as is shown in Figs. 85 and 86. The slides E work in the slide frame I I, an end view of which frame is given in Fig. 85, and a plan of it in Fig. 86 ; it is fastened at each side by the bolts or screws J J, which hold it in its proper place. Fig. 92 is an end view, in section, of the barrel A, having a few of the pattern staples driven into it, (by way of example :) these staples are of the various sizes or lengths to suit the number of changes required in the different parts of the pattern, as indicated by the sprig D, Fig. 86. The staple No. 1 (see Fig 92) contains three lines, and, of course, will cause the warp thread or threads which it governs, to be lifted three times in regular succession ; the two lines which fol- low this staple, being ground, are missed, and ten hues* are taken for the staple No. 2 ; two lines are missed, and one is taken for No. 3 ; one line is missed, and one is taken for No. 4 ; four lines are missed, and six are taken for No. 5 ; one line is missed, and one is taken for No 6 ; one line is missed, and four are taken for No. 7 ; one line is missed, and five are taken for No. 8 ; and the two last lines on the right hand side are missed, being ground or blank. The neck cords are arranged in a row, (similarly to those of Dr. McLaughlin's machine,) and each passes through a suitable hole in one of the slides E, which holes may be seen at K in the slide frame Fig. 86, and their position is indicated by the dotted hne L, Fig. 85. The tail or neck cords are all tied to their respective harness twines immediately above the two wooden rollers M (see Fig. 85. :) these rollers keep the selvage warp threads of the same height as those in the centre of the web when the shed is formed. N N is the har- ness board, which is supported by the framing of the loom at O O ; P P P P are mails, and 0,0,0-0- their respective lead weights, and both these leads and mails are precisely of the same form as those * This is the greatest number, or length, ever taken for one staple ; be- cause, if more were taken, the staple would be liable to bend in its middle, owing to the slides E driving against it in the working of the loom. BARREL OR CYLINDER LOOM. 185 of the draw loom (shown in Fig. 63.) In Fig. 85 there are four harness cords, R R R R, connected to the first tail cord at S, just above the rollers M, which shows that in this example, there are four repeats or parts in the whole tie of the harness. The harness board N N is in every respect like that of the draw loom, Fig. 66, in which figure five holes are shown in the breadth of the board ; one row, therefore, or five holes, may be supposed to represent five of the slides E, shown in Fig. 86. Now, the operator, in proceeding to tie up a harness of this de- scription, takes the first front hole of the board at the commence- ment of each repeat or part ; and if it is to contain four repeats, as in Fig. 8.5, he connects those four cords to the first or front tail cord, and then proceeds to the second, and so on to the fifth or back hole in his harness board, which will, of course, be connected to the tail cord belonging to the fifth slide. For the sake of illustration, we have numbered these five slides in regular succession, No. 1 being the first in front and corresponding to the front hole in the harness board N N, and so on to slide No. 5, which corresponds to the last or fifth hole at the back of the harness board. When one row is finislied, the operator again commences at the front of the harness board, on the right hand side of each of the first rows, tying the four first cords of the second row of each repeat to the tail cord passing through the sixth slide, and so on until the row be com- pleted, always beginning the rows as at first, and proceeding regu- larly over them until all the harness is tied. The pattern must be read off from the design paper on to the barrel A, as represented in Fig. 86 ; but, previous to this process, however, it is necessary to line ofif the barrel, so as to give its surface the appearance of design paper, and without which preparatory operation, the pattern could not be read on properly : this lining is effected in the following manner : — One of the slides E is sharpened to a point, as represented at T, Fig. 86, which point is kept pressed by the finger of the principal operator against the barrel A, while a second person causes the barrel to revolve, by which means, a mark or line is made round its surface, like those shown in Fig. 86. It may be observed, that none of the slides E are inserted in the frame 1 1 until the barrel A has been chequered as shown in the figure; because, if they were, the pointed slide T, could not be moved along from hole to hole in the frame 1 1, as the marking or scoring pro- ceeded. Each of the lines thus made round the barrel A must be directly opposite to the centre of a slide, in order that the slides may afterwards strike fairly on the staples. 24 186 THE ART OF WEAVING. The operator now proceeds to cross-line his barrel (from right to left) by laying a ruler or straight-edge along the length of it, par- allel to its axis ; the ends of which ruler rest on each side of the frame of the machine, and perfectly level with the slide frame 1 1. He affixes to the end of the barrel A a throated pulley U (See Fig 85,) around which is adjusted the rope or cord V V, passing over the pulleys W W, and attached to the weights X and X,* the latter of these weights being sufficiently heavy to draw round the barrel A one line of the pattern every time one of the catches Y Y (one of which is seen in Fig 89) is elevated from the side of one of the cogs of the spur wheel B. These catches are fixed in the stand or support Z, which is bolted to the frame at A' A' (see Fig. 85 ;) in this stand the catches are kept in the proper position, by means of a wire pin B^ passing through them ; a clearer view of one of these catches with its pin B' and recovering weight C will be had in Fig. 89. The recovering weight C of each catch merely serves to bring it back to its former position in the spur wheel B after it has been lifted by the arms D' D' of the tumbler E' ; this tumbler is distinctly represented in Figs. 85 and 90. On one end of the tumbler shaft is affixed a small pellet F', which works in a gouged- out pulley G' (see Fig. 88,) which pulley is loose on the end of the tumbler shaft, and a small spring catch H' is screwed to it, and this catch works against each of the points of the pellet F' alternately (see Fig. 88.) The operation of these parts is as follows : — Every time the barrel treadle cord I' (see Figs. 85 and 88) is depressed, the pulley G' having the spring catch H' screwed to it, will cause the pellet F' to turn to the right, and, if the treadle cord I' be of the proper length, the two points of the pellet F' will ex- change positions. The cord I', being connected below to the barrel treadle J', as in Fig 85, when the weaver lifts his (left) foot from off this treadle, the weight R' will recover the pulley G' to its former position, as shown in Fig. 88, the spring catch H slipping over one of the points of the pellet F'. The whole of the apparatus in Fig. 88 is kept in its proper position by means of the knot L'. The spring M' bears against the tumbler shaft in such a manner that at whatsoever point or place the spring catch H' leaves the pellet F', it will there remain ; and this prevents any part of the apparatus from interfering with the catches Y Y during the operation of the loom. The knot N^ (see Fig. 88) holds the cord in the throat of the pulley G'. When the operator proceeds to line off or score his barrel length- wise, as before stated, he lifts the catches Y Y, each alternately, BARREL LOOM. 187 and draws a line or score for every time a catch is lifted. The weight X* causes the barrel A to move half a tooth or interval to each line only, and consequently each of the catches Y Y must only be half the thickness of one interval between the teeth or dents of the spur wheel B ; for, if each catch fitted between two of the teeth, although one of the catches were lifted, still the weight X* could not move the barrel A, as the other catch would hold it fast : and if both catches were elevated at once, this weight would instantly run down as far as the cord would permit, or until stopt by some other means, such as the floor of the weaving room, and thus spoil the operation, but to avoid this evil, each of the catches Y Y, as before observed, is only half the thickness of the space be- tween the teeth or dents of the wheel B, and they are so arranged, that the one to the left hand side bears against the inside of one tooth and the other to the right bears against the inside of another tooth, thus leaving half a space empty inside of each catch, one tooth being in the centre between them. Now, suppose the barrel A to be pulled by the weight X* towards the right, as in Fig. S5, tlie tmnbler shaft E' causing the left hand catch (which was inside the tooth and bearing against it) to be ele- vated, it is evident that the weight X* would directly cause the barrel A to move half a tooth, by bringing the right hand catch against the left hand side of the tooth, instead of the right ; and during these movements the first catch would recover its former position, by dropping into a new interval towards the left hand side, the weight X* drawing the barrel against the other catch before the first had time to interfere by dropping into the place from which the second was moved : thus the gradual motion is communicated to the barrel A. The operator draws a line or score along the face of the barrel, parallel to its axis, every time he lifts one of the catches Y Y, until the entire circumference of the barrel be lined off. Particular care should be taken, that the cross lines come directly in a range with the centre of the slides E, so that these may strike correctly on the staples or pins of the barrel in the operation of weaving ; for, unless the slides strike correctly on the centres of the lines both ways, the pattern will be imperfect, as the comb will miss the knots of the tail cords (which part of the apparatus will be described hereafter.) It is necessary to mark upon the barrel A a correct representation of the design or pattern to be woven in the cloth, such as is shown by the sprig D, in Fig 86. The sprig D is given, for the sake of 188 THE ART OF WEAVING. illustration, with the small squares filled up, as patterns are painted on design paper ; but it is evident that the slides E could not strike the centres of those squares, their points being directly opposite to the lines which run round the circumference of the barrel A. The pattern, therefore, instead of being marked in the centres of the squares, like the sprig D, must be marked on the corners of them, or Avhere the lines cross each other at right angles : a specimen of this marking is given at O. Fig. 86, which indicates by the dots the different corners or crossings where the staples are to be in- serted. Before the operator drives in the staples, he takes a brad- awl, such as that shov\'n at 50. Fig. 87, with which he pierces small holes for the reception of the points of wire of which the staples are formed. The bradawl 50 is held in the left liand. and the mallet 70 in the right : and as soon as a staple has been driven to nearly its proper depth in the barrel, the operator uses the punch 60, which has a saw cut in its face sufficiently wide to admit the staple wire, (which is generally No. 13 or 14:) and, as the depth of this saw cut is exactly the same as the height to which the staples must project from the surface of the barrel, the punch is, therefore, driven until its face touches the barrel ; by these means the staples are made to project with the same height all over the barrel. It is also neces- sary that the staples should stand perfectly straight or plumb, after they are driven into the barrel ; otherwise, the slides E would not strike fairly upon their centres, so that the pattern would be incor- rect upon the cloth ; but, to avoid this evil, a small piece of sheet iron, of about |- of an inch thick, is hollowed out at one of its edges, to fit exactly the circumference of the barrel A, as shown at P', Fig. 87, and the opposite edge is left straight, as at Q.', the ends being perpendicular to it. as at R' R'. When the stapler has driven a staple into the barrel, as aforesaid, he brings the guage iron. Fig. 87, against it until one of the ends R' R' comes in contact with it, and if the staple be crooked or inclined to one side, he uses the small hammer or mallet 70 in his right hand, to strike it to its proper position, holding the guage iron in his left :* he then turns the guage iron, by bringing its edge Q,' in contact with the barrel * Perhaps it is necessary for tiie reader to bear in mind, that in all our des- criptions of machinery and apparatus given in this '^'^''ork, we make no allow- ance whatever for that portion of the human family (male or female) who are so unfortunate as to have the most essential (in weaving) members of their bodies misplaced ; as. for instance, a left hand for a right, a right foot for a left, &c. BARREL LOOM. 189 longitudinally, and proceeds to straighten the staple on the other sides also, if necessary. We shall now consider the mode or method of lifting the harness cords R R R R by their respective tail cords : — Each tail cord, as forjnerly stated, passes through one of the slides E, and after de- scending about 8 inches, a knot is made upon it, as at S', Fig. 85 ; it is then passed through a hole in the guide board T' about 8 inches from this knot, so that the whole distance from the slides E to the board T' is about 16 inches. The knots stand in a row, horizon- tally, and are i\ of an inch or thereabout from each other. U' (see Figs. 85 and 91) is a wooden roller of about 4|- inches in diameter, having suitable iron gudgeons driven into its ends, serving as an axis on which it turns round. On one end of this roller is affixed a throated pulley (like that marked U in Fig. 86,) in which a strong cord W passing over three fourths of its circumference, is made fast. A small groove X' (see Fig. 91) is cut out of the roller U' lengthwise, of the dove-tail form, and into this groove the back of the comb which lifts the knot cords is inserted. This comb must be made of good smooth hardwood, and the teeth must be formed at such distances apart from each other, that each tail or knot cord shall stand directly opposite the interval between two teeth, without interfering with them. A side view of the form of these teeth is given at Y', Fig 91, and it may be observed, that they are turned similarly to a parrot's bill, but upwards, (whereas, the bill of that talkative little creature is generally turned down- wards,) so that they may more efifectually prevent the knot cords from dropping when the weaver is opening the shed. On the reverse side of the throated pulley is another cord Z' with a stop knot, and with a weight A^ ; which weight recovers the comb roller U' to its proper position when the weaver lifts his foot from off the barrel treadle J'. In Fig. 85, the comb roller U' is represented with the shed formed, and the dotted line shows the position of the knots S' when not lifted. The teeth of the comb or roller U' stand generally about f of an inch under the knots S' when the loom is at rest, so that these knots may be thrown into them to form the pattern, as represented on the barrel A. The knot cords against whose slides the staples strike, are lifted, and the remainder, not being thrown into the teeth of the comb, are omitted, and thus they serve to form the ground of the fabric. We shall now describe the manner in which the slides E are drawn away from the face of the barrel A, so as to allow the weight X* to turn round the barrel half a tooth or interval to each 190 THE ART OF WEAVING. change of the pattern : — A small cord F is attached to each slide, as at B- B- Fig. 86, and the other end of this cord is made fast to a leather strap H ; which strap is nailed to the roller G ; and this roller has a throated pulley C- on one end ; a cord D'^ works in the throat of this pulley in a similar way to that of the comb roller U' and it is connected to the treadle cord I' as shown in Fig 85. Now, it is evident, that if the barrel treadle J' be depressed, the roller G will draw the slides E away from the surface of the barrel A : but this must not be done until the comb roller U' has taken hold of those knots which were thrown into its teeth by the staples, and has lifted them a httle above the other knots, which remain stationary ; and, to effect this, the cord D- is longer than the cord W' which turns the comb roller U', and, therefore, does not begin to draw away the slides E from the barrel A, until the comb has been raised to this position : if the comb roller U' remained at rest until the slides E were drawn back, and then came into action, it would lift the whole of the harness, instead of a proper change of the pattern, because all the knot cords would be thrown into the teeth. The tumbler cord of the pulley G', shown in Fig 88, is connected to the barrel treadle cord I' in the same way as those of the comb roller U' and slide roller G, and its length is such that it does not begin to operate upon either of the catches Y Y until the slides E have been drawn back from the barrel A ; otherwise, although one of these catches were lifted, the weight X* could not draw the bar- rel round, in consequence of the staples commg in contact with the points of the slides. If we suppose, for example, the spur wheel B to contain 400 teeth in its whole circumference, it will give 800 different changes of pat- tern in the cloth. If the design is what is termed a point or centre pattern, which consists of two halves exactly ahke, then, as soon as one half has been woven up to the last change of the barrel, the weaver shifts the weight X* from its cord to that marked X, and puts the latter in the place of the former ; when he again begins to work, he depresses the barrel treadle once without throwing in any weft, (to prevent a repetition of the last line or change of the pat- tern ;) \vere this not done, the same line would be worked twice over, which would occasion a defect in the cloth, called a double point ; he throws in weft for the next line of the barrel, which now turns in an opposite direction from what it formerly did, and continues the operation otherwise as before. Thus, it will be perceived, that a barrel with a spur wheel containing 400 teeth or intervals will BARREL LOOM. 191 produce a pattern on the cloth of 1600 changes, allowing one pick of weft for each : but, for example, if 8 leaves of headles be used, as in damask weaving, (which see,) and as many treadles, then, the weaver may keep dov\^n his barrel treadle J', at each change of the pattern, while he works over (with his right foot) the 8 ground treadles, throwing in a pick of weft to each respectively ; con- sequently, there would be 8 picks o'" weft, instead of one, as in the former case, for every change of the pattern on the barrel A ; thus, 12800 threads of weft may be given with 8 leaves of headles for the ground, on a spur wheel of only 400 teeth. The position of tlie ground treadles may be seen in Fig. 85, and they are numbered from 1 to 8 ; the front leaves of headles are not shown, but they are in all respects the same as those used in dam- ask weaving (see Gilroy's damask power looms.) The sides of the slide frame I I are 4i- inches apart ; the wire of which the slides are made is about No. 8, and the holes in them through which the tail cords pass, must be countersunk both above and below, and well pohshed, so that they may not cut the tail cords ; the slide roller G, is generally about 2 ft inches in diameter, and should be made of well-seasoned wood. We trust that from this description of the barrel machine, (which is the only one ever given to the public, of any practical utihty, either in this country or in Europe,) our manufacturing friends will be fully enabled to understand its mechanism, and to construct it for themselves. The apparatus represented in Figs. 88, 89 and 90, is of our own invention ; we refer to the pellet F' the pulley G,' the tumbler shaft E', with its arms D' D', catches Y Y, and the minor parts with which they are connected. This combination we have found from experience to be far superior to the endless screw or worm, used by Mr. Morton, for working the spur wheel B ; because the screw is sometimes liable to give out more than one line of the pattern on the barrel A at once, and at other times it does not give out so much ; in either of which cases, the pattern is injured. We think it superfluous to give any details regarding this screw contrivance of Mr. Morton's as it would only be wasting the reader's, and our own valuable tune, on a subject of no practical utihty to either weaver or manufacturer. E. K. Arphaxad, as appears from his Oration dehvered before the Median monarch. King Deioces, seems to have been thoroughly acquainted with the barrel machine, as constructed by Mr. Morton. (See Introduction.) 192 THE ART OF WEAVING. JACaUARD MACHINE (FRENCH.) Shortly after the introduction of tlie barrel machine, from the East, by Mr. Thomas Morton of Kihnarnock, another very ingenious ap- paratus, invented by M. Jacquard, a native of Lyons, was smuggled from France into England, by ]\Ir. Stephen Wilson, silk manufac- turer, (brother to Samuel Wilson, Esq. late Lord 3Iayor of London ;) and its pecuhar mechanism, no less tlian its acknowledged utihty, renders it an object well worthy the attention of both weavers and manufacturers. Like many other great inventions, the progress of this machine was not near so rapid as its merits might have led us to suppose, and this may be traced to two causes ; the first of which was, the opposition of interested parties (weavers) who erroneously feared that thev would be injured by its introduction among them : the second was, the imperfection of some of the movements of the maclune itself, which its mgenious inventor appears to have been unable to obnate. Although M. Jacquard justly deserves the honour of hav- ino- first constructed a machine with which the pattern was pro- duced by means of pierced cards or pasteboard strips working against parallel rows of needles, still, the general perfection of such a con- trivance, as now in use. must be ascribed to other scientific and practical weavers, both in Europe and America ; among whom we would mention the following : — In France, ^1. Dioudonnat and M. Bosquillon, Paris; in England, Stephen Wilson, Esq. and John Dove (foreman to Messrs. Lee and Edward Wilson, silk manufac- turers, 124 Wood Street, Cheapside) London ; in Scotland, Claude Wilson, James Morrison, H. and J. Crawford, Paisley, and Thomas Morton, Kilmarnock ; in America, Ichabod Hook, Lowell, Mass. But to proceed to our subject, a loom mounted with this machine has neither tail, simple, nor lashes ; and the pattern is cut out on pieces of pasteboard, (or sheet tin,) which are connected together, so as to form an endless chain, as represented in Fig. 97. The har- ness is constructed very similarly to '• Cross's counterpoise harness." Fig. 93, is a front elevation of the Jacquard machine, as it appears when at rest, showing the cyhnder, pierced with holes, for carrpng round the endless chain of pattern cards ; Fig. 94 is an end view, or that part which presents itself to the weaver when seated on his loom ; and Fig. 95 is a vertical section, taken transversely through the machine, showing the back board or wire guage for supporting the ends of the needles and keeping them in their proper places ; it JACaUARD MACHINE. 193 also shows the two leather straps and their pulleys for lifting the griir frame. Fig. 93 We would here remark, that in describing the drawings just al- luded to, the same letters of reference indicate similar parts in all of them. A A, Fig. 95, is the frame of the machine, connected by suitable cross bars at B B B B ; the two upright posts C C, one at 194 THE ART OF WEAVING. each end of the machme, support the cyhnder frame D D, beuig finnly held in their places by two cross pieces or bars E E, one of which cross pieces is very visible in Fig. 94, and the ends of both Fig. 94. are shown in Fig. 93 : into these are inserted the pointed screws F F. wliich are fastened by means of the thumb screws G G ; these being brought against the cross pieces E E after the screw points JACaUARD MACHINE. 195 H H have been inserted into small brass or steel bushes on the sides of the cylinder frame D D ; in which bushes these screw points work ; while, at the same time, the frame D D vibrates or swings upon them : this frame is adjusted by the screws F F, so that the cylinder 1 1 may be Ijrought fairly against the needles, or horizontal wires, that are to play into the holes on its sides or faces. A complete row of these needles, on an enlarged scale, as seen from the side of the machine, numbered at their points from 1 to 8, is represented in Fig. 96. J is a bent piece of iron, seen in front of the machine Fig. 93 ; and a side view of it is given in Fig. 94 : this iron piece is screwed to the middle of the two cross bars which connect the sides of the cylinder frame D D, and these bars are mortised, as shown at K K Fig. 94. The cylinder 1 1 is merely a square axis ; it is movable upon two iron pivots, driven into its ends, and it occupies the lower part of the frame D D. The four sides or faces of the cylinder are pierced with holes of from |^th to :f th of an inch in diameter. It is the general custom to have 2 spare rows of needles, in depth, one on each side of the centre, and these are used for working the selvages, independently of those which work the pattern. In a machine, for example, containing 400 needles for the pattern, there are 8 holes in breadth and 52 in length, on each side of the cylinder, as represented in Fig. 96 : one row is left blank, as at L Figs. 93 and 95. A Jacquard containing 600 pattern needles will have 12 holes in the breadth of the cyhnder, and 50 in length, besides 2 rows for the selvages, as in the former example. The cylinder 1 1 has 8 knobs M, four at each end, and 6 of these may be seen in Fig. 93 : those on the right hand end are made of box- wood, and the left hand ones of brass ; the latter are riveted into small pieces of iron, which are fastened to the cylinder by the screws N, and one of these screws is shown in Fig. 93. The knobs are so arranged, that the holes O O O O O of the pattern cards, Fig. 97, shall lit them loosely, in order that each card, when brought upon that side of the cylinder which is next to present itself to the nee- dles, may lie perfectly flat or level against it : the screws N serve as regulators or adjusters for this purpose. In the successive applica- tion of the cards P P P (see Fig. 97) to each side of the cyhnder, the holes O O in each card must always fall directly opposite to those pierced in the other cards throughout the whole series which compose the pattern, so that the knobs M may carry them round in regular succession during the operation of weaving. Near the right hand end of the cylinder, and square with it, there are two square plates of sheet iron Q, Q, (see Figs. 93 and 94,) each about ^th of an inch 196 THE ART OF WEAVING. thick, with a distance between them of from 1 ^th to Ih inches; tliey are parallel to each other, and are kept in their places by the square part of the gudgeon of the cylinder which passes through their centres. Four small pins or studs R R R R connect these plates at their corners, as shown in Fig. 94. and two of them are repre- sented in Fig. 93. A small roller is placed on each pin, to prevent them from being worn, and to diminish the friction of the catches S S, which turn the cylinder round upon its axis. The catches S S are hung upon suitable centres inside of the frame, and either of them may be brought into action by means of the cord T ; which cord passes over a pullej' U at the upper part of the machine (see Fig. 93.) and thence descends to a convenient place for the weaver's hand, where a knot is made u}X)n it. to be passed, when required, into a saw cut or notch, like those in the trap boards of Cross's ma- chine. Fig. 72 : below the knot, there is a small wooden bob at- tached to the cord, on which the weaver lays hold when he finds it necessar}' to bring the under catch S into action, and slips the knot into the saw cut, as before described. "When this is done the cylin- der 1 1 turns round backward, or in a contrary* direction from what it formerly did ; and this is often the case in point patterns, in which one half of the figure is exactly the same as the other half: in such a case, the weaver, by working regularly over his cards up to the last one, and then reversing the action of his cyhnder, saves half the cards that would be required were he to continue turning the cyhn- der one way until the pattern was completed. AVlien the vreaver requires to unravel part of the cloth which he has just woven, in consequence of some defect, such as is produced either by the breaking of warp or weft threads, or by using a wrong colour, (wliich very often happens where forty or fifty are necessary to form the pattern,*) he brings the under catch S into play against the cylinder head, for the purpose of making the chain of cards move backward, in order to find the particular card by which the pick of weft nearest the reed was thrown in ; and, again form- ♦ Thirty colours (and as many shuttles) were used in the manufacture of her Majesty, Q,ueen Victoria's coronation dress; and 276 were employed in the production of Pope Boniface's night shirt; in the latter of which fancy articles, these colours were so arranged and blended together, as to display correct likenesses of 276 heretics, each suffering under some species of torture ditferent from any of the others ; and thus the night shirt of his Holiness con- tained not only a greater varietj' of colouring, but also more terrible speci- meos of design than ajiy shirt, perhaps ever manufactured in Europe. JACaUARD MACHINE. 197 ing the shed by it, he withdraws the pick ; and thus he proceeds until the defective part of the cloth is entirely unraveled. V V are two pieces of wood, each shaped like a rake (without teeth,) and its stem or shank passes up through the cross bars of the frame D D : the under one of these bars has a square hole in it at each end, to prevent the pieces V V, which are also square where they pass into these holes, from turning round ; those parts of these pieces which pass through the upper cross bar are round, and have spiral springs W W coiled loosely about them ; the upper end of these springs bear against the under side of the top cross bar of the frame D D, so as to press the pieces V V down- ward against the pins R R R R in the cylinder head, two of these pins coming under them every time the cylinder is brought into contact with the needles, so that the springs W W, by pressing down upon the shoulders of the pieces V V at X X, keep the cylin- der 1 1 perfectly on a range with the needles which play into it. It is evident that while the cylinder is being turned round for the purpose of presenting a new card of the pattern to the needles, the springs W W will give way or be compressed, so as to allow the cylinder to turn past its centre ; and when this is accomplished, the cross pieces V V, by means of the springs W W, will immediately recover their former position, and at the same time bring the cylin- der II on a range with the needles ; and all this takes place during the outward motion of the frame D D, one of the catches S then operating upon tlie cylinder head. Y Y is the griff frame for elevating the perpendicular wires Z Z, by their hooks at the top : to the lower ends of these wires the har- ness is connected, as at A' A', Fig. 9G. The griff frame contains one straight-edged piece of iron B' for each row of hooks in the ma- chine, and these pieces are inserted into the ends of the frame, as at C^ C, Figs- 93 and 95. A side view of one row of hooks is given at D' D' Fig. 96, and their straight-edged lifters B' B' B' in the same Fig. are shown in perspective. The centrepiece E' helps to support the lifters, through each of which a suitable mortise is cut to lit tightly into it ; and the end pieces G' G' connect the sides of the frame Y Y by being dove tailed into them, as shown at H' H' Fig. 91. A bent piece of iron I', adjusted at its back end by a nut and screw J', passes through the centre of the back cross bar Y, and its other end, which is square, passes through a square hole in the front cross bar Y ; and to prevent these bars from being worn, a small iron plate K' is fastened upon each by the screws L' L', which may be seen in Fig. 93. The piece of iron V, after hav- 198 THE ART OF WEAVING. ing passed through the said square holes, is bent to the right hand side, for the purpose of receiving the friction roller M', which works in the curvilinear space N', of the curved iron J : a side view of these parts is given in Fig. 94. The lifting of the griff frame is accomplished by the following means : — There is a shaft O' O', running across the frame of the machine, and resting on suitable bearings at each end, on which it turns ; and on this shaft there are made fast two wooden pulleys P' P', to each of which is attached a leather strap Q,' Q,', and this takes a turn round three fourths of the pulley : the other ends of these straps have holes R' R' in them, through which two iron spindles pass, and these spindles are kept in their places by means of heads which are made upon them at one end and screw nuts at the other. The proper position of the straps Q,' Q,', is in the centre between the cross pieces Y Y; and the pulleys P' P' should be of sufficient diameter to permit the straps to hang in the centre of the griff frame, so that this frame may be lifted with as little friction as possible in the operation of weaving. On the right hand end of the shaft O' O', and outside of the frame, is affixed a pulley S' with a strong strap or band T' nailed to it, and taking a turn round three-fourths of its circumference, in an opposite direction to the straps Q,' Gf thence down to a treadle, to which it is connected. When the weaver depresses this treadle, the strap T', by means of the pulley S', causes the shaft O' O', with the pulleys P' P' and straps Q,' Q,', to lift the griff frame Y Y, and with it those perpen- dicular wires whose needles are entered into the holes of the pattern cards and cylinder, according to the figure to be produced in the cloth ; and while the griff frame is rising, the friction roller M', being affixed to the end of the bent iron I', throws out the cyhnder frame D D gradually, by working in the curvihnear space N', of the iron J, and brings one of the catches S in contract with one of the pins R on the cylinder head : the griff frame continuing to ascend, by means of the friction roller M' working against the inclined part of the iron J, causes the cylinder to turn round another side, bringing with it a new card of the pattern ; and, when the weaver lifts his foot from off the cylinder treadle, the griff frame descends, leaving the hfters B' B' in the position shown in Fig. 96 ; which Fig., as before stated, represents one complete row of needles, numbered at their points which pass through the front board U', against which the cyhnder strikes, (see Fig. 94.) It will now be perceived, that by working the strap or band T' (see Fig. 95) in the manner JACQ.UARD MACHINE. 199 just stated, the cylinder I I will be turned round upon its axis, so as to bring a new card against the needles every time the weaver depresses his treadle ; and thus the cards of the endless chain are brought into action in regular succession, one after another. i ^ ,.,\;,N-^ ^N,>. s. ; ;s;-»^^!^'^^,"J.c^f^.^' . "J,V;' "-^,''^^t4V^y;! 200 THE ART OF WEAVING. The wires Z Z are turned up at their lower ends, as represented in Figs. 94 and 96, and into the loops thus formed small rods or slips of wood V V are inserted, from side to side of the machine, one rod passing through each row of needles, and the ends of these rods at one side of the machine, are dove-tailed into a cross piece W (see Figs. 93 and 95) which prevents them from turning ; their ends at the other side are round, and are inserted into another cross piece W', where they are fastened by small nails or brads : the rods fit loosely in the needles. Four small cords X' X' connect the frame W W, to the under side of the griif frame, as shown in the Figs. ; and they are adjusted by the shp knots Y' Y'. The use of the frame W W and the rods V V, is, to prevent the hooks D' from turning round, or from bemg thrown out of their proper posi- tion during the operation of the loom. The loops or turned up part of the wires Z, through which the rods Y' V pass, are usually one inch longer than the intended depth of the shed in the warp : were this precaution not used, these rods would be lifted out of the loops when the griff frame was raised, so that the hooks D' would have nothing to prevent them from turnmg round ; and should any of them get out of their proper place, the rods V V could not recover their former position on the descent of the griff frame. In the French machine, from which we made these drawings, while at Lyons, the loops or turned up part of the wires Z were 4^ inches long, and the shed in the warp was 3^ inches deep : these propor- tions work very well. The perpendicular wires Z Z should be made of No. 12 wire, and the needles of No. 14 ; both of which must be sufficiently tough to stand the process of bending and also stiff enougli not to give way in the operation of weaving. Z' Z' is a wooden box, called the spring box (see Figs. 94 and 96,) which is pierced with as many holes as there are needles in the machine, and into each of these holes, a small brass spiral spring A^ A"^ is inserted (see Fig. 96 ;) which springs are generally If inches in length, and nearly ftths of an inch in diameter, and they are made of No. 28 wire (which should be very elastic.) Each of these springs bears against the back end of a needle, as at B^ B^ Fig. 96 and at C Fig. 98 : the needle represented in Fig. 98, corresponds to that marked No. 1 in Fig. 96.* ■* It is not perhaps generally known, that M. Jacquard did not employ per- pendicular wires like those marked D ' D ' in Fig. 96, in the first machines which he constructed, but knot cords and trap boards Uke those shown at Figs. 71 and 72. JACaUARD MACHINE. Fig. 96. 201 /yyyyxy' Each row of needles, in depth, has a wire pin D- D- passed through it at the back ends of the needles, and the ends of these pins are inserted into the cross rail E- above the needles, and into the cross rail F- below them ; which pins serve to keep the needles in their proper position, as shown in Fig. 96. The rails E and F- are drawn in perspective, and the black dots indicate the position of the per- pendicular wires D- D-, as well as the distance between the rows of needles. G- G*^ (see Figs. 95 and 96) are the cross wires which support the needles. The holes H^ H- show the position of the springs A^ as they stand in the box Z' Z' : it must be observed, that this view is in perspective. The spring box Z' Z' is bored to within about about \ of an inch from its bottom, as at P I' Fig. 96, We may here remark, that we ourself, have superseded the neces- sity of using the spring box altogether, and also made several other improvements upon the Jacquard machine, particularly in a new method of governing the griff frame, by which a saving of power to the amount of 50 per cent is effected : these improvements, with many others which belong to us, are fully described under the head of '' Gilroy's patents" (see Index.) But, to proceed, the needles pass through what is called the needle board U' U', against which the cyUnder 1 1 plays : this board is about |ths of an inch thick, and the points of the needles which are actuated by the cards project beyond it about Iths of an inch. 26 202 THE ART OF WEAVING. It is now evident, that those needles which are pressed back by the blank or uncut parts of the card (represented in Fig. 97,) Fig 97. Fig. 98. vmmm^ ^ i) ^ — = — ==^___. when the cylinder is brought against the needle board U' U', will throw back the wires Z Z which pass through them, so that when the weaver elevates the griff frame, the hooks D' of these wires will be missed by the hfters B' B' B', and all the others will be raised, (see Fig. 96.) Each card represents one line of the design paper, and by all the cards being worked over in regular succession one after another the pattern is formed upon the cloth. It is sometimes of advantage, particularly when the pattern is heavy, to miss the hooks connected with those needles which enter the holes of the cards, and lift the others. To effect this, when the cards have been cut in the usual way, the position of the lifters B' B' B' must be reversed, so as to inchne in an opposite direction, and the hooks D- must also be reversed or turned round : the weaver may work on otherwise as before, and there will be no dif- ference in his cloth, except that the pattern will appear on the under side of it, instead of on the upper side. The thumb screws J^ and lx)lts K^ at each side of the machine, serve to keep the spring box Z' Z' m its proper place at the ends of the needles, as seen in Figs. 94 and 96. The screws L^ L^ (see Figs. 93 and 94) are used in adjusting the cyhnder, so as to an- swer the points of the needles ; they push against the under side of small brass bearings, in which the pivots or gudgeons of the cylinder work : these bearings are let into the wood of the cylinder frame D D, and are kept from droppin? out by small pieces of wood 1\P M^, which are dove-tailed into the sides of the cylinder frame, as seen in Fig. 93. The screws L^ L-. when the cylinder has been adjusted by them, are secured from turning round by means of the nuts N^ JACaUARD MACHINE. 203 N^ which are brought to bear tightly against the under ends of the frame D D (See Figs. 93 and 94.) O^ is a bar to support the middle of the neck board ; P- P"^ are pieces of leather to ease the griff frame in its descent (see Fig 94 ;) R^ R^ are brass slides in the sides of the upright pieces C C, into which the square rods S^ S~ are screwed to the ends of the griff frame, with the screws T'^ T'^ T^ T^. (See Fig. 95.) Lastly, we would observe, that in patterns which require one pick of weft only to a point, one card also will be required for each pick : thus, for a pattern of 5000 picks, there must be 5000 cards like- wise : but in fabrics where leaves of headles are used to produce the giound, from 2 to 16 picks of weft are usually given to each card or change of the pattern. In shawl weaving, when two colours of weft are employed, two picks of weft are given for each card, one for the ground and the other for the figure ; and w^hen a greater number of colours are used, there must be distinct cards for each. In damask weaving, it is customary to use 8 leaves of headles for the ground, the w^eaver throwing in either 4 or 8 picks of weft for each card regularly ; and if only 4 are thrown in for one card, then, the 4 treadles used in working it must not be used in working the succeeding card, but the other 4 treadles must be employed ; other- wise, the tweel would be broken. It matters not, whether the weaver changes his cards to every 4 or 8 picks so long as he continues to work his treadles in regular succession. For weaving full satin, 16 leaves of headles and as many treadles are necessary ; but the weaver may produce, either an 8 or a 16 thread point, by working over the half or the whole of his treadles to each card. A patent was granted in this country, bearmg date February 3d, 1841, to Alexander Calderhead, of the city of Philadelphia, Pa., for placing the cyhnder, cards (fcc, of the Jacquard machine, under- neath the warp, and substituting a series of perpendicular wires or needles, arranged m the harness board in parallel rows, each needle representing one of the twines or sleepers of the harness ; and these alterations the patentee calls, " an improvement upon the French machine," as described by us, and shown at Figs. 93 to 98. He commences the description of his apparatus in the following strain : " I, Alexander Calderhead, have invented (it will be seen in the sequel that Mr. C. is not the inventor of this contrivance) a new, easy, and cheap method of weaving all kinds of figured cloth." This method consists, first, in raising and lowering the threads of the w^arp with what he calls " independent metallic headles," in- stead of the weights, mails, twines, &c. composing the mounting 204 THE ART OF WEAVING. of the draw loom ; and, secondly, " in constructing the cylinder and pattern cards or apron, so as to lift directly the said headles or wires, to form the sheed or shire;* or, in constructing a trunk and pattern web, both, to direct what shall be the sheed, by trapping or untrap- ping the hooks or knot cords to be drawn up, as m Jacquard and draw looms." Mr. C. uses several terms here which we do not recollect of hav- ing seen applied before to anything in the way of weaving ; trunk for cylinder, sheed or shire for shed, heylds for headles, foot hoard for treadle, and apron or pattei'n web for pattern cards or chain of cards, must be new to most weavers, and, perhaps, these terms form the principal part of the invention. "I (A. C.) make the heylds or perpendicular wires, for a Scotch imperial three-ply carpet, of No. 13 wire, the length of which heylds is 24 inches. A head A (see Fig. 99) Fiff. 99. t^nr^ B &^ R * For the meaning of the word shire, (in weaving,) see Plain Weaving, Section First, of this Work. JACaUARD MACHINE. 205 is made on each of the said wires ; and 14 inches below this head the wire is flattened, as at M M, where an eye is punched or bored in it, and these eyes are substituted for mails. The wires or heylds, work in two boards C and D (Fig. 99 :) the board C suspends or hangs them, by their heads A ; the board D serves as a guide to direct the point of each needle respectively throughout the series or range of the web into the holes of the trunk B, on which the apron or pattern web works. I (A. C.) make the boards C and D one inch thick, (each we suppose,) 5| inches broad, and 4 feet in length, or long enough to work on the slides E E, (Fig. 99.) I (A. C.) bore the holes in the said boards C and D large enough to admit wires about 2 numbers coarser than that actually used, say for No. 11 ; and the holes of the trunk and pattern apron, I make |- of an inch in diameter, (we suppose that in making the holes of this size, allowance is given for atmospheric variations.) Each row in breadth of tlie boards C and D contains twelve holes ; and all these rows are slanted (see Fig. 66, draw loom,) so that the back hole of one row shall be nearly square with the front one of another row : this prevents the warp threads from crowding each other. The trunk B, pattern web, and boards must be of the breadth of the web (curious jargon this !) ; and the trunk B is hollowed out the depth of the sheed. The trunk may be cast, or made of sheet brass, brazed together, and fixed or screwed on blocks or end pieces ; and it turns on an axle or centre, which passes through the slides E E : these slides are 60 inches long, 25 above and 35 below from the point where the axle or centre of the trunk B passes through them. The slides E E are kept in their proper positions by the brackets or guides F F, and they are connected by suitable straps to beams* L L ; these beams are supported at the top framing of the loom by the hai>gers 1 1, and to their ends 4 rods H H are suspended. (Only two of these can be seen in the Figs.) The rods H H are con- nected to the board C (as shown in Fig 99,) two at the front and two at the back, for the purpose of raising and depressing the board C when required, n, n, are metallic rods, which pass through the board C, and are screwed or otherwise secured to the board D : the ends Q, Q- of these rods guide the board D, and keep it in its proper place. The under extremities of the slides E E are attached to the ends of the lever or cross bar R, (which may also be seen at B^ Fig. 100 :) on the ends or axis of the trunk B is a 4 toothed wheel P (see Fig. 101,) for the purpose of turning the trunk B, which is * Jacks, not beams. 206 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 101 Fig. 102. caught in its descent by the hooks T T (see Fig. 99,) attached to the frame of the loom at S S. W W are levers, which work in the sUdes E E, and are pressed by springs K K, in order to bring and keep the tmnk square (as is well understood, of coiu-se, bemg so hke the ap- paratus used for a siQiilar purpose in common Jacquards) the levers W W are more clearly shown at u'^,u^,{Fig. 102.) Z Z (Fig. 99) are two sHdes, one at each side of the machine, which pass the hooks T T from one side of the toothed wheels P to the other, so as to make the trunk B revolve, either backward or forward (a view of one of these levers Z will be had in Fig. 101.) The operation of the machine is as follows : — " " The foot board or treadle O (see Fig. 99) of tlie lever or bar K, by being pressed down wnith the foot, raises up the slides E E, the trunk B, and the guide board D, and lowers the rest board C : this allows the heylds or wires to pass into the trunk B wherever holes are cut or punched out on the pattern card or cards."' (Every alter- JACQUARD MACHINE. 207 nate wire is represented in Fig. 99, as being raised, and this would cause the warp threads passing through their eyes M M to be raised also ; and if these wires were raised and depressed alternately with the others, plain cloth might be produced.) " When the weaver lifts his foot from off the foot board or treadle O, the wheels P P (see Fig. 101,) on the axis of the trunk B, are caught by the hooks T T, and these hooks cause the trunk to turn one-fourth part of a revolution." (One of the hooks T may be seen at F^ Fig. 101, and the cylinder treadle O is distinctly shown at O'^ Fig. 100: in Fig. 100, R^ indicates the position of the lever or bar R, and B'^ that of the slides E E, for raising and depressing the cyhnder B.) The enlightened patentee, the said A. C, claims, " the exclusive right to make the above specified machine, to suit all kinds of flowered cloth." He also claims, " the principle of lifting the sheed or shire (not county) with metallic heylds, directly by the pattern apron and tmnk (not portmanteau) roll or receiver, or hy lower- ing the heylds into the same, as described^ We have quoted above, Mr. C's own words, in order that our readers may judge correctly of his pretensions as a weaver. If he is as ignorant of mechanics as he appears to be of the proper names of the different parts of the common loom, we need not be astonished although he tells us, that a machine, such as that represented in Figs. 99, 100, 101, and 102, " will manufacture all kinds of flow- ered cloth." The patentee, Calderhead, speaks of making " a Scotch imperial three-ply carpet" with his machine ; but, let us see how he could accomplish this :— In the first place, suppose a carpet 36 inches in breadth, and containing 1800 threads of warp from selvage to sel- vage ; in this case 1800 needles or headles would be required, and the pattern cards and cyhnder B would require to be 36 inches each, in length ; suppose each of the holes in the cylinder B to be :| of an inch in diameter, (as stated by the intelligent patentee;) and after making the necessary allowance for the metal left uncut between the holes, perhaps 3 holes might be got on an inch ; then, as there are 12 holes in the row across the cylinder B, there would be 36 holes in one inch of the length of it, and likewise 36 needles on one inch across the web ; so that in the whole breadth of the web, (36 inches,) there could only be 1296 needles, and, of course, the same number of threads, instead of 1800. But, some kinds of figured goods contain from 400 to 650 threads of warp per inch ; and it often happens that a web has as many as 16,000, or 20,000 threads in it, from selvage to selvage, so that on the above principle, 16,000 208 THE ART OF WEAVING. or 20,000 needles, and the same number of holes in the cylinder Avould be required in such a case : besides, a web of this kind is very frequently SO or 120 inches broad, and would require from 16,000 to 20,000 cards to produce the pattern. "We question the applicability of the " he]/lds, trunk'' and '• apron' to webs of this description, unless the needles could be made of wire, at least, as fine as No. 60 or 70 ; and, moreover, cards 80 or 120 inches long mig-ht be found somewhat diificult to manage, at least, this is our opinion. Before dismissing this subject we would mention, that one of the most extraordinary specimens of silk weaving, per- haps, ever executed, was exhibited at Mr. Morrison's late conversa- zione given to the members of the Institute of British Architects. It was a portrait of Jacquard, representing that extraordinary man in his workshop surrounded by his implements, and planning the construction of that beautiful machinery, which now^, in its increased perfection, returns this testimony to the genius of its inventor. This work, worthily entitled '■'• Hoimnage a J. M. Jacquard," was woven with such truth and delicacy as to resemble a fine Une engraving : it was executed by Didier, Petit & Co. There were 1,000 threads in each square inch (French,) in both the warp and the weft ; and 24,000 cards were used in the manufacture, each card large enough to receive 1,050 holes. But, to conclude, we would state, for the information of our read- ers, that we, ourself, made a machine on the same principle as that claimed by Mr. Calderhead, as far back as Jan. 1833, (for manu- facturing common ingrain carpeting ;) and a patent for which was granted to Claude Marie Helaire Molinard, of Bury Street, St. Mary Axe, in the city of London, merchant, bearing date 9th April 1833 ; (see vol. 15, Conjoined Series, of the London Journal of Arts and Sciences, for the year 1840, pages 286 and 287,) so that Mr. C's patent is, in point of fact, null and void. We may also remark, that a friend of ours, in Loudon, "William Webb, Esq., of the firm of James Jacquier & Co., No. 1 Wood St., Spitalfields, showed us a machine, in the year 1836, differing in no respect from that con- structed by Mr. C, and represented in Figs. 99, 100, 101, and 102 ; and, no doubt, Mr. Webb would be glad to furnish any number of them to order, to whom we would recommend those of our friends who want such articles to make application forthwith. Perhaps machines of this description might be found of advantage in the manufacture of horse-blankets. (See Arkite Ghiden Ghelen's loom. Fig. A. Introduction.) The pattern cards P P P Fig. 97, are cut (in small estabhsh- JACaUARD MACHINE. 209 ments) between two steel plates, like those represented in Figs. 103 and 104. C Fig. 103. OoOOOCOOO oto 3aooc-ooi.^ooo50cooo oooooooooooof oovoooooco l-e On??:?s^ o The holes A A, in these plates, correspond to those of the cylin- der shown in Figs. 93 or 99. B B (Figs. 103 and 104) are large holes to fit on the knobs M M in Figs. 93 and 94 ; C C are hinges which connect the plates, and they must be well fitted, so that the plates may present no impediment to the punching of the paste- board or card paper, when it is placed between them ; D D are handles attached to the upper plate, by which the operator raises or lowers it, when he v/ishes to take out or put in a card ; the large holes B B correspond to those marked Fig. 97. The method of cutting cards in these plates, from the design paper or pattern, is so well known to all persons having the least knowledge of figured weaving, that we need give no further des- cription of it in this place. We would state, however, that on this plan, an active man can only cut from 100 to 150 cards per day ; whereas, on the great French card-cutting apparatus or machine, (to which the reader is referred,) he can cut from 2.500 to 3000, with the assistance of a boy, in the same time.* * We would here mention for the benefit of the manufacturers of this coun- try, that a card-cutting machine of this kind, in its most perfect state, may be purchased from our friend, M. Dioudonnat, No. 12 Rue St. Maur, Paris, for 2400 francs ; this includes the copying and stamping machines, the simples and all the other necessary apparatus, as well as the packing or boxing of the whole and its carriage, to Havre for shipment. One of these splendid machines would, at least, be sufficient to cut cards for a manufactory contain- ing 300 looms. 27 210 THE ART OF WEAVING. SECTION SEVENTH. CARPETING. The progress of almost any of the arts may be safely taken as an index of civilization. The arts, indeed, are so intimately inter- woven, that one of them can scarcely flourish without giving rise to and receiving support from others. This is particularly the case in regard to the manufacture of carpets ; which, hke the other branches of weaving, has received improvements at every hand, and has lately made important advances. The very fact of the existence of such a manufacture speaks volumes as to the increase of our domestic comforts. In the superficial texture of the common carpet, nothing appears to distinguish it from an ordinary web ; and a first observer is at a loss to imagine by what means its variety of colours can be pro- duced. On examining the figure more narrowly, it appears that the designer has laboured under considerable dififtculties : for in many places where purity of colour would have been advantageous, a mixed colour, of the warp and weft, only is to be found, while scarcely any gradual shading of the tints depending on the nature of the figure is to be seen. A still closer examination explains at once the source of these imperfections. The ingrain or double car- pet is found to consist of two contiguous webs, intermingled with each other in such a manner as to produce the pattern : each of these webs, if woven singly, would have a striped appearance, being partly coloured in the weft. One set of coloured stripes is thus imposed upon another : and in designing the colours of the pattern, no selection beyond what is afl^orded liy the judicious ar- rangement of tliese stripes can be made. The number of full colours is thus very limited ; and these can only be obtained where the weft traverses warp of the same colour. To bring up then a part of the figure full red, red warp must be traversed by red weft ; these colours can be immediately concealed by sending the threads to the other web, but were they to remain long there, botli webs would become monotonous. It is therefore extremely difliicult to avoid a strong tendency to striping in the colours, and, except in tile principal part of the figure, the colours can hardly be well man- aged, the secondary embellishments being almost matters of chance. CARPETING. 211 Yet, in the face of all these difficulties, patterns of great beauty are being continually formed on the carpet loom. The invention of the triple carpet, claimed by Mr. Morton, of Kilmai-nock, has almost removed these difficulties.* This carpet is composed of three webs, which interchange tbeir threads in order to produce the pattern. The primary object in the introduction of the third web, appears to have been the obtaining of greater variety and brilliancy of colouring ; but another curious effect has followed, that the two sides of the carpet are necessarily counterparts to each other. To a certain extent the figure of the under must depend on that of the upper side, since threads may be needed from the under web to produce what is wanted in the chief pattern on the upper side, but there still remains the choice of an interchange of threads between the two inferior welDs. It is obvious tliat the tendency to striping must be much less on this than on the common carpet, and that the designer Iiaving a far greater choice of colours, may pro- duce effects that could not before have been obtained. After the principal figure has been determined on, the skill of the designer is most severely exercised on the wrong side of the carpet. His choice of materials is indeed as great as with the common carpet, but then he is hampered by the restriction in figure, and can only be entirely at ease opposite a piece of plain texture on the other side. The superior beauty of the triple carpet over the common ingrain or two-ply is at once acknowledged : it possesses almost all the freedom in colouring of the floor-cloth or paper-hanging, while its great thick- ness and comparative cheapness bring it into competition with the more expensive kinds of carpeting. Fig. 105 is a correct representation, in perspective, of an imperial Scotch carpet loom. The frame of the loom consists of four perpendicular posts A A A A, with capes B B, and cross rails C C C C, to hold them firm at suitable distances apart ; these posts are generally 6 feet 4^- inches in height ; D is the cloth roller, which must be made of well- seasoned wood of bl inches in diameter, with an iron gudgeon of tths of an inch in diameter driven into each end of it, in the usual way ; on one of these ends a ratchet wheel E is fastened, which is operated upon by two clicks F F, for the purpose of holding the web in its proper place when wound upon the roller by the weaver, * Mr. M. is one of those sanguine mortals who believe, that if a man could produce a machine which would generate the power by which it was worked, he would become a creator ! Oui ! ! 212 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig 105. in a similar manner to that formerly described in section 1st under the head of plain wea^-ing ; G G is the lay or batten ; H the reed ; I the upper shell to hold the reed ; J the under shell or sill of the lay ; K the rocking tree or cross bar, which connects the lay swords G G above, as in Fig. 9, section 1st (which see ;) L the harness, with double necking, connected to each of the Jacquard machines ; M the treadles ; N a rack or guide which serves to keep the treadles in their proper places ; O treadle cords or wires which connect the treadles to their respective levers or lifters, in the usual way ; P the harness board ; Q, the warp roller, with its ratchet wheel R, similarly fixed to that of the cloth roller D. and held in its place by the catch or dog S, as in Fig. 7. section 1st (which see ;) T the warp yarn as CARPETING, 213 it proceeds from the warp roller through the harness L, and from thence into the reed H, where it is woven into cloth, then passes over the breast beam U, and on to the cloth roller D ; V the cloth ; W a strong cord, fastened to the catch or dog S at X, passing over the pulley Y, and attached to the loom frame at Z, on the right hand side of the loom, and convenient to the weaver's hand ; on this cord a small wooden bob A' is fixed, which the weaver pulls when he finds it necessary to draw his bore or sink, and he winds the same length of cloth upon the cloth roller that he draws of warp from oflf the warp roller ; B' B' Jacquard machines of the common description, mounted on the top of the loom in the usual way ; C^ C' the pattern cards, and, D' D' two wooden boxes into which they drop when delivered from the cylinders, as represented more clearly in the description formerly given of the Jacquard machine, and in the drawings Figs. 93, 94, 95, 96. 97, and 98 (which see.) The introducer of this texture (]\Ir. Morton) has conferred on us a very great benefit : he has furnished us with a higher embellish- ment for the interior of our dwellings, and presented to us another evidence of the active benevolence and social disposition of man. And it is agreeable to reflect; that in the nursing of the idea, and the carrying of it into effect, he must have felt a pleasvue mucr. more intense than is likely to be experienced by any of the multi- tudes who will enjoy the fruits of his abilities. A desiie for something in the interior of a dwelling analogous to the soft clothing of the external world, seems to be generally felt ; for in all states of society attempts are made to remove the hardness and unseemhness of the floor. Among the poorer nations, these attempts are confined to the mere dormitories, but, as advances are made in wealth, the mat and carpet begin to appear. The softness of the turf and more than its smoothness having been at- tained, it was natural to imitate also its embellishments : for this purpose several distinct kinds of carpet texture have been contrived. On one of these (the ingrain) we have already reported an immense improvement, and proceed to describe a no less striking improve- ment on another. The Brussels carpet is distinguished from the common one by having a raised pile, and by the circumstance that the figures and colours are entirely produced from the warp. The pile is raised by inserting a wire between the body of the warp and the previously raised colouring threads. These threads descend and are fixed by the weft, which is of linen, two picks being given before the insertion of each wire, and these picks are called binders, and after a few 214 THE ART OF WEAVING. repetitions of the process the wires are withdrawn, taking care that the wires be not drawn out too near the face of the cloth : otherwise the looped warp would become stretched, by recovering the position in which it was before the wires were inserted. The Wilton carpet differs only in this, that the pile is made some- what longer, and cut in the manner of velvet.* Were the coloured warp, however, raised into pile at each stroke, the web would have simply a striped appearance ; and if it were raised only at intervals, the figure would be given m relief, but would still be merely striped. In order to produce a properly coloured pattern, several coloured yarns are arranged, so that any one of them may be raised, into pile. Their number is generally five, and these constitute what is called five covers, so that, by their irregular ascent to the surface, the striped appearance is almost broken up.t Still, however, the * The knife or cutter used in England, for cutting the piles of various kinds of fabrics, is a steel rod about 2 feet long and f ths of an inch thick, having a square handle at one end ; the other end is tapered away to a blade as thin as the edge of a razor. To prevent the point of the knife from turning down- wards and injuring the cloth, its under side is cov^ered by a guide, which serves to stiffen it, as well as to prevent its under edge from cutting the fabric during the operation of guttering out the pile. The operative grasps the handle in his right hand, and insinuating the projecting point of the guide under the weft, pushes the knife smartly forward through the whole breadth of the pile (from selvage to selvage.) This process is repeated upon every hne of the pile throughout the web. An expeditious method of manufacturing common velvets has lately been introduced by our respected friend, M. Tannias Falson, of Lyons, its ingeni- ous inventor. There are two principal features of novelty in this method ; the first of which is, the weaving of two webs or pieces of velvet at once, the one above the other, the pile of each turning inward, and the webs being connected together by the pile itself The second feature consists of a vibra- tory cutter or knife, which passes between the two pieces of velvet and cuts them asunder, as fast as woven, by the mere operation of the loom ; the cut- ter is, of course, set from the face of the cloth at a sufficient distance to pre- vent its cutting too near the reed. This excellent mode of manufacturing velvet, might, we think, be intro- duced with great advantage in this country : the necessary apparatus may be obtained, by applying to the inventor, at Lyons, or to Messrs. James Jac- quier & Co., No. 1 Wood Street, Spitalfields, London. t Called coi-ers on account of all the colours being covered or hid, except one, which shows on the face of the cloth. In a pattern, for instance, containing five colours, all these may be visible, but only one will show at any particular point, and the sum of all the parts of the coloured yarns which appear on the face, will be only one fifth of the whole of the coloured yarns employed. Five colours are commonly used in the manufacture of Brussels carpet : if a CARPETING. 215 web is essentially striped, and though the designer be not nearly so hampered as in the Kidderminster texture, he is yet seriously in- conunoded in his choice. Let us suppose a board painted in minute coloured stripes. After these have dried, let another coating of coloured stripes be laid on, and so on for five coats, each differing from the preceding : the painter may now form an idea of the difficulties encountered by the carpet designer, — let him set to work, by scraping away the different coats, to produce a pattern. But there is another annoyance ; in order to jJrochice the smallest speck of any jmrticidar colour, a thread of that colour must trav- erse the luhole pattern ; and that thread may displace some other which uould have been advantageously hrouglit in elseichere. On account of the very different rates at which the coloured threads are taken up, these cannot be wound upon one beam, but have to be placed each upon a bobbin by itself. To remedy the inconvenience of this texture (the Brussels car- pet) Mr. Richard Whytock, of Edinburgh, contrived a method of partially dying the yarns ; but we cannot fully understand the value of the contrivance till we have glanced at another kind of carpet texture. The Turkey carpet is the simplest in its texture of all carpets, and at the same time is almost unUmited in the choice of colours. Let us suppose ourselves seated at a common loom, and that imme- diately after having thrown a pick, we commence to tie on every thread of the warp a small bunch of coloured worsted yarns, vary- ing the colour according to our fancy. This completed, let two or three picks be thrown, and well driven up ; and then another row of coloured worsteds tied on. It is clear that in this way we could produce any pattern, and that no more of any particular colour is wanted than is sufficient to produce the required effect : nay more, the colours being put on by hand, we would not be compelled . to reiterate the pattern at each stated distance. Here we have every advantage that we can wish for, excepting this important one, ra- pidity of formation. Whytock's method supplies to all the advantages of the Tur- greater number were employed, the cloth would have a flimsy appear- ance. Suppose ten colours to be used, instead of five, as already described, then nine of them would always remain below, while only one would be raised, but this one could not fully conceal the others, so that the pattern on tlie cloth would be indistinct. Could one-half or two-thirds of the coloured threads be brought to show on the face of the cloth, it is clear, that the fabric would have a much more dense and velvety appearance. 216 THE ART OF WEAVING. key carpet, a rapidity of weaving greater than that of the Brussels fabric. His method may be described thus : If for the five coloured yarns of the Brussels carpet we could substitute one yarn dyed of the requisite colour at different places, we would be able to dispense with all the apparatus for producing the pattern, could make the web with only one body, and work it as a simple velvet. The only difficulty would then be in the dying of the warp threads. In order to dye the threads, one yarn is wound on the surface of a large drum, of which the circumference is equal to the length re- quired for one copy or length of the pattern. This drum is gradu- ated so that the d\"eing roller can be passed across the j-arn at any required place. The design, extended on the ordinary ruled paper, enables the workman to discover all the places at which a particu- lar colour is to be applied : that done, he changes the colour box, and so proceeds till the whole colouring is completed. The thread, bemg now dyed, is then taken off the drum, and submitted to the processes (steaming &c.) for fixing and brightening up the colours. The second thread is then dyed, and so on till the whole warp is finished. The next and most difficult part of the operation is, to place all these yarns side by side upon the beam. For this purpose they are wound upon separate bobbins, and small white spots, purposely left m the dying, enable the workman to arrange the coloured parts properly opposite each other. They are then carefully rolled upon the beam, and the weaving proceeds rapidly, each thread being brought into the pile upon every successive wire. Whytock uses the grooved wires, and cuts the pile in the mannei- of the Wilton carpet. Excepting the necessity for the recurrence of the pattern, this has all the advantages of the Turkey carpet. The coloured spots can be produced at any point, and need not run in rows as in all the other carpets. It need hardly be added, that greatly admired pat- terns have been produced by this method ; and that the manufac- ture meets with deserved encouragement. Before concluding tMs imperfect notice of these two improvements (Morton's and Whj^ock's) we would draw attention to a subject of great importance to society in general. A strong prejudice, sanc- tioned by an old proverb,* exists agamst those who turn their atten- tion to several branches of the arts. Yet it is a fact, that ahiiost every improver has been jack of a good many trades ; nay, an ac- * '-Jack of all trades and master of none." CARPETING. 217 quaintance with a variety of operations is essential to the invention of new ones ; and very often prodigious improvements are effected by the simple transference of a process from one art to another/ May we be allowed to hint, that the triple carpet is one of those generalizations so often fomid in scientific researches, and that its inventor appears to have extended his studies far beyond the sub- ject of carpet weaving. Whytock's carpet, again, bears on tire face of it the necessity for a knowledge of the arts of dyeing, weaving and scheming; for no one not intimately versed in these could have conceived, or, having conceived, could have carried the idea into effect. Another idea exists, that the happening upon new discoveries is a matter of chance, and some appear (we judge from their conduct) to imagine that the less they know of a subject the more likely are they to alight on something new ; as a bad swordsman trusts to that very circumstance for outwitting his antagonist. Once in a century, indeed, one man among seven hundred and fifty-nine mil- lions may find, by chance, some valuable process ; but the great mass of our current inventions are the fruits of assiduous and well- directed exertion ; and the mind, even more truly than the body, must earn its bread in the sweat of its brow. For the benefit of the manufacturers in the United States, who are interested in the carpet trade, we have, at very great trouble and expense, made correct drawings and specifications of Mr. Whytock's very ingenious machinery for colouring carpet yarns, according to the statements just made : and although we have been out of pocket several hundred dollars more than we at first anticipated in this matter, still, we regret it not, believing that our exertions will meet with an adequate reward. We have made all the drawings to a scale.f This invention consists of a new method or manufacture, which facilitates the production of regular figures or patterns, on different fabrics, particularly velvets, velvet pile, and Brussels, Wilton and Turkey carpets, by colouring the threads or yarns which are to be * As, for instance, the stealing of other men's inventions, and passing tlienx off for our own. It often occurs that schemers, by such low trickery, suc- ceed in acquiring large fortunes, whereas, the ingenious persons whom they thus swindle not only out of their bread, but also out of the honour which they justly deserve, die for want of the common necessaries of life. f We think it proper to mention, that these drawings were made from one of Mr. Whytock's machines, while in operation, at Tournay in Belgium ; and we were assisted in making them by Judge Shinimigin of Brussels. 28. 218 THE ART OF WEAVING. used in weaving such fabrics, with a succession of different colours applied at different portions of the length of each yarn, according to such a peculiarly regulated order of succession of colours, as that after the yarns (so rendered party coloured) have been suitably ar- ranged, in a simple loom, such as is commonly used for weaving plain cloth, without any Jacquard or other figuring machinery thereon, and after the said yarns have been woven, particularly into any of the fabrics aforesaid, by the ordinary manipulations of plain weaving, the cloth shall exhibit the appearance of a pattern or de- sign, in diverse colours, by virtue of the variegated colours which were previously applied on the yarns by this improved method, ac- cording to a suitable and peculiarl)' regulated order of succession of colours, as aforesaid. And although certain yarns which are intended for weaving pat- terned fabrics by plain weaving, have been heretofore rendered party-coloured, by tying up part of the hanks or skeins in order to preserve them free of colour when the other parts are coloured, by submitting the whole hanks or skeins to a dying process ; and also, by a more recent process (practised by Mr. liouis Schwabe of Man- chester) such yarns have been rendered party-coloured by printing them whilst they are in skeins or hanks ; and the yarns so rendered party-coloured, whether b}' dying or by printing, are afterwards ar- ranged in the loom, so as to give to the fabric which is woven therein, the appearance of certain irregular and ill-defined patterns in single or party-colours, such as clouded, speckled, mottled, mar- bled and spotted patterns, and inteiTupted striped patterns ; it is to be understood that this improved method or manufacture, of Mr. Whytock's, is founded on the same principle of previously rendering the yarns party-coloured, and afterwards arranging them in the loom so as to produce a fabric with a variegated pattern by plain weaving of the party-coloured arranged yarns. This improved method, by virtue of certain mechanical combinations and arrange- ments, hereinafter described, for performing the process of rendering the yarns party-coloured, with a suitable succession of colours, (and after the same are suitably arranged in the loom certain precaution- ary measures, hereinafter described, being used, in order to keep up the said suitable arrangement unchanged during the process of plain weaving.) will facilitate the production of regular figures or patterns, which will correspond with sufficient accuracy to a pre- vious, and intended design, and will be repeated with sufficient ac- curacy at regular distances along the length of the woven fabric, so as to exhibit the same appearance as is usual in the regularly CARPETING. 219 figured or patterned fabrics, which are woven in figured looms, but which regularity and accuracy of patterns have not been hitherto obtained by the ordinary mode of dying or printing yarns in the hanks or skeins. We are aware of the fact, that yarns prepared for weaving into figured fabrics, by plain weaving, by printing suitable impressions in diverse colours upon them to form the chain or warp of the in- tended web, and passed through reeds like those of the loom which is intended to be used for weaving the same, the said impressions being obtained from engraved metal surfaces or from carved blocks, in the manner practised by calico printers, according to which method of printing warps, the pattern which will be afterwards ex- hibited by the fal^ric woven out of such printed waips, will be the same in respect to its design as that which is engraved or carved on the surfaces or blocks, by which the impressions were printed on the warp, except in as much as the design may be contracted in length by the gathering up of the warp in the process of weaving. It is to be understood, tliat according to Mr. Whytock's improved method, the yarnS; when they are arranged in a Wtirp in prepa- ration for weaving, are not printed ; nor does he make use of en- graved surfaces, or carved blocks, with any figured design or pattern thereon which bears tlie least resemblance to the figured design or pattern which will be exhibited by the woven fabric ; but, witii the same mechanical combination and printing implements which he uses for rendering yarns party-coloured, as aforesaid, suitable for the production of one kind of regular figures or patterns on the woven fabric, he can, also, render yarns party-coloured suitably for the production of an unhmited variety of different regular figures or patterns by only varying the regulated order of succession, whereby he appUes the different colours to the yarns, with his me- chanical combinations and printing implements ; and according to which improved method, the warp or chain is formed in preparation for weaving after the yarns are rendered party-coloured, which is also the case in the common plan of dyeing the yarns in the hanks or skeins, tied up, or in printing the yarns in the hanks or skeins : in the old methods, the warp or chain is formed first, and the print- ing afterwards performed thereon, and the yarns of their printed warps (or so many thereof as are to form the patterned or figured part of the fabric) must retain the same positions in relation to each other when they are in the woven fabrics, that they had dining- the printing, for the yarns receive their printed impressions whilst they are arranged in the same order side by side as that which they 220 THE ART OF A\EAVING. are to have when arranged in the loom. This distinction being made, we shall now proceed to explain the improved method or manufacture in all its essential details. In order to render yarns party-coloured by Whytock's improved method, one yarn or thread, or a small number of yarns or threads, must be wound or coiled around the circumference of a large cylin- der or drum, which is mounted on a horizontal axis in a frame, in the manner of a grindstonSySind the circumference of the cylin- der being covered with a blanket, such as is used l)y calico printers to cover over their tables for block printing, with the addition of an oiled cloth cover, to keep the blanket clean, the circumvolutions or coils which the yarn or each of the yarns makes around the said cylinder, being disposed regularly and closely side by side. And if more than one yarn is wound round the cyhnder at once, the coils thereof should be continued until they fill up close to the side of the first coil which was made by the next adjoining yarn, so as to cover all the circumference of the cylinder with circumvolutions of the yarn or several yarns around the same. The yarn or yarns being thus disposed in coils around the cylinder, and the ends fastened thereto, they are prepared for receiving the colours, which are ap- plied by means of long narrow sticks or rulers, the edges of which are covered with felt, and are used as printing surfaces, in the man- ner of calico printing blocks, but without any carved pattern on the said edges or printing surfaces ; that is to say, the felt edge of one of the said rulers being furnished with its appropriate colour (from a colour seive, such as is used by calico printers for block printing,) is applied horizontally across the breadth of the cylinder, parallel to the axis thereof, so as to cross over the coils of the yarn or yarns which surround the cylinder ; and an impression being given across the yarn or yarns by the printing surface or edge of the ruler, in the same manner as would be done by calico printers, it will apply colour to each ciixumvolution of the yarn or yarns, along so much of the length thereof as is equal to the breadth of the printing surface of the rulers ; and as the yarns or each yarn makes several circumvolutions around the cyhnder, the colour so applied will colour as many different places along the length of each yarn, and those places will be exactly at equal distances apart along the length of the yarn, viz. at distances apart equal to the circum- ference of the cylinder. After one impression is thus made on the yarn or yarns, the cylinder is turned round just as much as will move its circumference a space equal to the breadth of the impres- sion left by the ruler, and then, if the pattern requires a change of CARPETING. 221 colour, another similar ruler, furnished with a suitable colour, is ap- plied across the yarns, so as to make another impression thereon adjoining to the former ; or, if the pattern does not requue a change of colours, but the repetition of the same colour, the same ruler which was first used, being furnished anew with its own proper colour, is used to make the second impression, instead of a ditierent ruler ; after which the cyhnder is again turned round as much as the breadth of the impression left by the last ruler, in preparation for laying another impression, either with the same ruler which was last used refurnished with its own proper colour, or else with a ditferent ruler furnished with a different colour, according as the pattern requires a change of colour, or a continuance of the same colour, on the next succeeding portion of the length of each yarn. When repetitions of the same colour are frequently required, the colouring may be expedited by using a broader ruler, which will print double or treble the space of the ruler before mentioned. In this way the colouring of the yarns proceeds along all parts which require to be coloured by successive impressions of the different colours, with repetition of the same colours, or a change from one colour to another, according as the pattern requires, until a com- plete series of such impressions has been made, reaching all round the cylinder ; and which series, by joining up to the first impres- sions, will complete the colouring of the whole length of the coils of yarn around the cyUnder with their required party colours, suc- ceeding each other in due order of succession, according to the pat- tern they are intended to produce in the woven fabric. When one yarn, or one small number of yarns, has been thus rendered party coloured, it, or they, must be taken off the cylinder, to be afterwards, when dried, subjected to the action of steam, to fix the colours, and then washed, and when again dried, to be wound on a bobbin, or on bobbins, in preparation for forming it or them into a warp; and as soon as the cyhnder is at liberty, another yarn, or another small number of yarns, is coiled upon the cyhnder to be in its, or their turn, rendered party coloured, by a similar series of manipulations, and so on until the whole number of yarns which are required for the formation of the warp or chain of the intended fabric, or of the figured or patterned portion thereof, are rendered party coloured ; and, in applying the colours to each yarn or small number of yarns which are wound each time round the cylinder, the order of succes- sion of the different colours is varied as the pattern may require, for each yarn or small number of yarns ; and when the whole of the yarns requisite for the warp (or for the figured or patterned portion 222 THE ART OF WEAVING. thereof) are finished and gathered on theii" separate bobbins, either the said party coloured yarns are drawn off from the bobbins to form the warp in the loom by degrees, as the yarns are required for the weaving, or else the yarns are collected from the said separate bobbins on to the yarn beam of the loom by the usual process called beaming, as a preparation for weaving ; and in so collecting the partv coloured yarns from off their different bobbins into a warp, whether it be by degrees as the weaving in the loom requires, or in order to beam the warp upon the yarn beam of the loom previous to the weaving, the several party coloured threads must be arranged side by side, each in its proper place across the breadth of the warp, according as each yarn has been previously rendered party- coloured, suitably for the place it is required to occupy in pattern. And, owing to the circumstance of each yarn making several cir- cumvolutions around the cylinder when the colours are applied thereon, as herein before described, the order of the succession of the party-colours on each yarn will be exactly repeated at intervals along the length of each yarn equal to the circumference of the cylinder, and those repetitious of the order of succession in the warp wall produce repetitions of the figured pattern in the length of the piece of the fabric when it is woven. Wherefore, the length of the circumference of the cylinder must be adapted to the length over which the pattern is required to extend, before a repetition of the pattern commences, allowing for the contraction of length W'hich results from the gathering up of the w^arp in the process of weaving, or else the circumference of the cylinder may be twice or thrice the length of the yarn required to produce that length of the fabric over which the pattern is required to extend before a repetition commences. The warp being thus composed of party-coloured yarns, suitably variegated with colours, and arranged in suitable order in the w-arp, according to the intended pattern, the weaving is to be conducted in the usual manner of what is called plain weaving, and will produce a fabric with a figured pattern in colours, unthout any of the troublesome maiiipulations u-hich are neces- sarij for what is called figure weaving. The fabrics for which Whytock's improved mode is most particularly adapted, are those wherein the surface of the fabric which exhibits the pattern is com- posed chiefly by gathering up the warp into loops, by interlaying a wire during the operation of weaving across the warp in the direc- tion of the shoot or weft, and which wire may be either drawn out in order to leave loops for the face of the fabric, as is the case in Bruxelles carpets, or the wire may be cut out, if it is intended to CARPETING. 223 form a pile for the face of the fabric, and the cut or divided loops will form that pile, as is the case in velvets, velvet piles, and Wilton carpets ; and, as to Turkey carpets, which are a different description of fabric from the others above mentioned, being formed by knot- ting tufts of coloured worsted yarn around the yarns of the warp, Whytock's improved mode facilitates the production of regular fig- ures or patterns thereon, by enabling the operator to render the skein of yarn which each weaver is to use for forming those knotted tufts party-coloured, with the different colours succeeding each other, exactly according to the order of succession of colours in which the weaver must introduce tufts of different colours. According to the ordinary mode of weaving Turkey carpets, the weaver must have in use as many different skeins or clews of different colours as the variegation in his pattern requires, and must select first a skein or clew of one colour, and then another, with discretion to suit his pattern ; he will, according to this improved mode, require to use only one skein or clew of yarn, which, being rendered party- coloured in due order of succession of colours, will furnish all the variation of colouring necessary for forming the successive tufts which he will require in his work, and following each other in due order as they will be wanted. And as he works up the skein or clew of party-coloured yarn by putting in tuft after tuft, and cutting off the yarn each time, those successive tufts will change their colour according to the intended order of succession of colours which the pattern requires, without any trouble of selecting colours and changing skeins with j^erpetual reference to the pattern, as hereto- fore, but only occasional reference thereto, and without the same liability to mistake in so selecting, and the waste of coloured yarn which is occasioned by such mistakes ; and also, the number of ends remaining from the number of skeins which must be used will be much diminished by rendering the yarns party-coloured, according to this improved mode, and likewise, by this mode of party-colouring the yarns, the joinings of the patches of colour which were applied successively, will indicate the exact place Avhere the yarn is to be cut off as the tufts are introduced, whereby waste of material in cutting off too long may be avoided, as well as im- perfections in the face of the work by cutting off too short. — Note, A saving of colouring material may be made in rendering the yarns for Turkey carpets party-coloured, by an improved method, by omitting to apply any colour to those parts of the yarns which are afterwards to be looped or knotted around the yarns of the warp, and which parts will therefore appear only at the back of the fa- 224 THE ART OF WEAVING. brie, and \vi\l consequently require no colour ; these omissions can be easily made in their proper places along the party-coloured yarns, by settin? out the pattern so that those parts of the yarns will be known when they are wound round the cylinder, and may be passed over without applying any colouring matter thereon. The places which are so left uncoloured in the yarns will be extremely nsfful as indications to the weaver of the places where the tufts are to loop and knot around the yarns of the warp. Fig. 106 represents the cylinder A A in perspective, together with the rack B B containing the bobbins a a, from which the yarns 6, are furnished to the cylinder A A as fast as they are wanted, %vhen the latter is turned round in order to wind them around its circum- ference, as herein before mentioned. Figs. 112 and 113 also repre- sent the cyUnder, and the same letters of reference are used to de- note the same parts in all the figures. CCEL Fig. 113, and K K L Figs. 114 and 11.5 is the wooden frame for supporting the axis D of the cyhnder A A; EL (see Figs. 113 and 114) are upright standards to support a horizontal shelf or rest F, which is fixed across the width of the cyhnder, and serves to place the rulers by which the colour is to be apphed to the yarns, in a truly horizontal position, and so that each ruler will be presented to the cylinder A A at the same height thereon; dd, (see the Figures 107 and 109) is a guide screw, which is mounted horizontally in bearings notched out in each of the upright standards E L (see Fig. 113 ;) the screw d d, has a pulley e, fixed on the extreme end of it, in order to turn it round by means of an endless band or strap// (see Fig. 112,) from another pulley g, which is fixed on the extreme end of the axis D of the large cylinder A A ; wherefore, the screw d d. will be turned round with a motion corresponding to that wherewith the cylinder A A is turned ; G G (see Fig. 107) is a conductor for the yarns, which is fitted on the guide screw d d, so as to be moved gradually along thereby across the width of the cylinder A A, when the latter is turned round. The rack or frame B B (Fig. 106) contains as many bobbins a a, as the number of yarns which it is intended to wind around the cylinder A A, for colouring at one operation. — A yarn b, from each of the several bobbins a a, is conducted beneath a fixed horizontal rod or wire h, then over another such rod or wire i, and beneath a third fixed rod or wire k ; which three rods or wires, by opposing a slight friction to the yarn or yarns when drawn across the rods or wires, will cause the yarn or yarns to be extended with a proper tension when drawn afterwards by the cylinder A A. After passing under the third rod or wire k, each of the several CARPETING. 225 yarns is passed through a distinct eye in a wn*e guide z z., (see Figs. 100 and 107) which is fixed upon the top cross rail R of the conductor G G (see Figs. 106, 107, and 108) and, finally, each of the yarns is passed through a wire loop m, which is fixed in the top cross rail R (see Figs. 107 and 108) and projects so far out therefrom as to reach near to the circumference of the cylinder, w, (see Figs. 113 and 114) is a fixed rest or guide for the tails of the conductor G G to bear against, when the screw d d, is turned round, and as it carries the conductor G G Uterally across the wndth of the cylinder A A in the manner before stated, and in so moving it will guide each of the yarns, so that the successive coils which that yarn makes around the circumference of the cylinder will fall close to each other side by side ; and, if that coiling is continued until the last coil made by one yarn joins up to the first coil made by the neighbouring yarn, then, the whole surface of the cylinder will be covered with the several yarns. — -The conductor G G is made double, and fitted upon the screw d d, near to each end thereof, the two conductors G G being united by two wooden rails R S, and each part which is so fitted on the screw d d, is formed in two parts G p, (see Figs. 107, 108, and 109) which are jointed together at q, in the manner of a pair of pincers, to grasp the screw d d, by the action of the spring ?', which is interposed between the handles G p, of the two parts, in order to urge them apart from each other, and cause the other parts 5 s, of the pincers to grasp the screw d d between their jaws, by clasping the two handles Gp, of each of the conductors together in the hands, their spring r, can be overcame to open the two pincers, and then both the conductors G G become detached from the threads of the screw d d, in order to move the whole back from one end of the screw to the other, without the trouble and de- lay of turning the screw round backwards after one set of yarns has been wound round the cylinder, in order to prepare for winding on another set.* Figs. 114 and 115 represent the cylinder as it appears when a part H H of its circumference is folded inwards towards the axis, in order to admit of taking off the yarn from it after it has been ren- dered party-coloured. Two portions H H of the circumference are * A more simple guide or conductor for coiling the yarns on the cylinder A A, as represented in Figs. 106, 107 and 108, may be used ; and as every manufacturer of cotton goods in the United States is well acquainted with the common traverse or spooling motion, no difficulty can be experienced by them on this head. We are confident that the manufacture of this kind of carpet, (the velvet pile) is destined ere long to receive vast improvements : indeed, we would not be at all surprised to see from 25 to 30 vards of it manufactured 29 226 THE ART OF WEAVING. attached to the remaining portion of the circumference by hinges in the manner of a pair of folding doors ; also, a portion 1 1 of each of the rims and arms of the cyhnder is attached to their central naves on the axis by hinges, so as to admit of folding those portions of the rims and arms down out of their proper places, and then the two portions H H of the circumference by dropping in towards the axis, will slacken and set the yarn free upon the cylinder, in order that they may be removed or doffed from off the same, in hke man- ner as a common yarn real is doffed when it becomes covered with hanks of yarn. And, in order to admit of so doffing the yarns from the cyhnder, the side K K L of the wooden frame (Fig. 114) which supports one end of the axis D, is made to turn down in the man- ner shown in Fig. 115, about hinges at its lowest part, by which hinges it is attached to one of the ground sills of the frame ; and, when the side K K L is placed upright in a proper position to support the cylinder, as is shown in Fig. 113, it is retained by an oblique strut M, which is also attached by a hinge at its lowest end to the cross sill of the frame, so that it can be turned down out of the way in the manner shown in Fig. 115, when the side KKL of the frame is to be turned down. — Note, before that side is so turned down, the weight of the cylinder A A must be suspended as shown in Fig. 115, by a tackle of pulleys N, apphed in an oblique direction between the arms of the cylinder from a support at the ceiling of the room, and reaching to the end of the axis D of the cylinder. The cylinder is framed with two sets of arms, upon the two ends of the axis, and two ciicular rims on those arms as shown on the drawings. The circumference is composed of boards fixed across the edges (as in the construction of card drums) of the two rims parallel to the axis of the cylinder, and the outside circumfer- ence being formed to a true cylinder, is covered with a printer's blanket strained tight and sewed. — A covering of oiled or varnished cloth is spread evenly over the blanket, and secured thereto by pins. The yarns are wound round the covering of oiled cloth in order to receive their colour, but the said oiled cloth cover is unpinned, and removed from the cylinder along with the yarns when they are doffed, in order to preserve them from blurring their colours by handUng in doffing. per day, of 12 working hours, in a machine of comparatively simple construc- tion, superintended by one person only. We are always willing to do our ut- most in advancing the manufactures of this country, being deeply impressed with the idea, that on them, in a great measure, depends our prosperity as a nation. CARPETING. 227 228 THE ART OF WEAVING. Figs. 107, 108, 109. Piff. 110. Green. CARPETING. Fig 111, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 IG IH "20 « 24 26 28 30 S2 34 36 38 40 42 229 Border or ^ Selvage. Light Blue. 48 Dark Blue. Green, ss 60 Note. — The above species of painting or of transferring patterns to the de- sign paper is performed with camel hair pencils, and appropriate pigments, which are to be reduced, if necessary, to a semi-transparent state. The pen- cils should be chosen of a middle size, with a good spring and point, both of which qualities may be discovered by drawing them gently through the mouth, and pressing them on the thumb nail ; when, if on being moderately wet, they spring again into their form after being bent (on the nail,) it is a sure indication of these qualities. The points of the pencils too, should be adapted as nearly as possible to the size of the small spaces or squares on tlie design paper on which they are to be employed, that the designer may be able to fill any individual space with only one touch of the pencil. A learner in this department, before he attempts designing of patterns, should endeavour to acquire a dexterity in filling up these httle spaces on the design paper, whether they run in straight or curved lines ; taking care al- ways to fill them exactly, without allowing the paint to spread beyond their boundaries, or leaving any of them broken or imperfect. 230 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fi?. 112. CARPETING. 231 232 THE ART OF WEAVING. Description of the tnaniier of apj)lying the partp-colours on the yarns^ and of determinhig the proper order of succession for the different colours thereon. The succession of colours must be determined by means of a de- sign paper, w hich represents the design or figured pattern intended to be produced by plain weaving of the party-coloured yarns. See a specimen of such a design paper Fig. 111. It is similar to the design paper used by weavers for figured weaving, being ruled with squares, which are numbered across the top and down the length, and it must contain the entire figure of the pattern which it is in- tended to produce in the fabric, and which pattern is to be repeated thereon at regular intervals along the length of the piece : and, sup- posing that the ground whereon the pattern, Fig. Ill, is to be repre- sented, is to be all of one uniform tint, the whole of the yarns may be dyed with that colour previously to applying the party-colours, the said dye being chosen of such a nature that it will readily give place to the stronger party-colours which are to be applied.* The size of the cylinder A A must be so chosen that its circumference will be equal to the length of yarn which the warp will take up for weaving, from the commencement to the end of the pattern, where it will join to the preceding, and to the succeeding repetition of the pattern, taking into consideration the contraction of the length of the warp which will result from the gathering up of the yarn in weaving, and which contraction varies very greatly in different kinds of fabrics. Whatever number of squares the length of the design paper occupies, (for instance 72, as in Fig. Ill,) the circum- ference of the cylinder must be divided into a like number, (of 72 equal parts ;) or the double or the treble that number, if the cylin- der is large in proportion to the pattern ; which is easily done by applying a tape painted with suitable divisions upon it around the circumference of the cyhnder, as at t t, (see Fig. 113) and fasten- ing it with pins to the blanket cover. The design paper should be laid out in large squares, as the printer has to distinguish readily the succession and order of the different colours. It may either re- present a figure to fill the breadth of the intended fabric, or one which is to be repeated several times side by side in the breadth, and each square may either represent a single yarn or a number of yarns, according as the texture of the fabric is to be fine or coarse. * The operator must be careful not to apply light pink, light yellow, sky blue, pea green, or French white on a black or dark bottom, as none of these delicate tints would appear to advantage on such a surface. CARPETING. 233 Repetitions of the same figure in the breadth will admit of several yarns being coloured alike at one operation, and the trouble of after- wards separating these yarns may be avoided by keeping the coils of the different yarns distinct from each other npon the cylinder. Tile numbers along the top border of the design paper. Fig. Ill, (for instance, from 1 to 43 in Fig. Ill,) represent tiie different sets of yarns in the warp which are to.be rendered party-coloured to- gether by one operation. Suppose, for instance, that it will take six yarns of the warp, side by side, to fill each of the squares across the breadth of the fabric, that will be 6 times 43 or 258 yarns, side by side, in the whole warp, to produce the pattern Fig. 111. In that case 6 bobbins a a. Fig. 106, must be used, and as many yarns must be wound together round the oiled cloth covering of the cylin- der A A, by attaching their ends thereto with pins, and then turn- ing the cylinder round by a suitable crank. The traversing mo- tion which the screw d d, then gives to the conductor G G, will lay each of the six yarns in regular coils close side by side on the cylin- der, so that the succeeding coils of each yarn will just touch one another. The number of circumvolutions of each yarn which must be thus wound upon the cylinder, will be determined by the num- ber of repetitions of the pattern required to be made in the whole piece of the fabric w^iich is intended to be woven for one warp ; and when the required length of yarns is wound on, the successive coils made by each yarn will cover up the space allotted for it on the breadth of the cylinder, so as to join to the space allotted for the next yarn, whereby the whole surface of the cylinder will be cov- ered with coils ; which being done, the ends of the yarns are cut off and secured to the oiled cloth covering of the cyUnder with pins, and then those yarns are ready to receive the party-colours from the printing rulers or sticks, in the manner herein before described ; and it only remains to explain how the proper order of succession of colours is determined by aid of the design paper. Fig. Ill, viz. The cylinder is turned round until the division 1 of the tape 1 1, (Fig. 113) around its circumference is brought to an index mark, which is made on any suitable part of the fixed frame for that pur- pose, and the cyUnder is fastened there by means of a stop x, Fig. 112, which is jointed to the fixed frame at one end, and the other end formed with a sharp hooked point to stick into the wood of the cylinder. This being done, the printer refers to the design paper. Fig. Ill, and finding that the four first sets of yarns at the border of the warp do not require to be party-coloured, he proceeds to the number 5 along the top margin thereof, and finds thereby that the 30 234 THE ART OP WEAVING. six yarns which he is going to colour will be the fifth set in the in- tended warp, reckoning from the border of the warp, then proceed- ing downwards under that number 5, he finds the first coloured square in the pattern is number 22 down the margin, and also that the said square 22 is painted green, therefore, he knows he is to take a printing ruler furnished with green colour, and laying that ruler upon the shelf F, he presses it towards the cylinder and makes the first impression across the yarns upon the cylinder. He then turns the cyhnder round to division 23, and looking to square num- ber 23 down the margin of his design paper, (still under number 5 at top,) he finds that square to be also green, and therefore he knows that he is to make another impression with the same printing stick, after refurnishing it with green colour : after which he turns the cylinder round to division 24, and by reference to his design paper, he finds it again to indicate another impression of green colour, and after that another repetition thereof, at division 25. These four being done, he finds by referring to his design paper and proceeding downwards (still under number 5 at top) that no more party-colours are required on the fifth set of yarns until the 48th square, which is a light blue colour ; therefore, he turns the cylinder round, forward as far as its 48th division, and fastening it there makes an impression with a ruler furnished with a light blue colour, which being done, another reference to his design paper shows him, that he must again turn the cylinder forward to its 53d division, and there apply an impression in dark blue colour ; and, lastly, that he must again turn the cylinder forward to its 58th di- vision, and there apply a green impression ; after which the said fifth set of yarns, then wound on the cylinder, will be completed and rendered party-coloured at every part of their length where the pattern requires them to be so coloured, unless the cylinder is so large as to require the pattern to be repeated twice or thrice in going round it, in which case he repeats the operation accordingly. And, note, if the yarns have not been previously dyed, as herein- before mentioned, with an uniform colour, proper for the intended ground on which the pattern is to be represented, then, (unless the ground is to be white,) the ground colour must be applied to the yarns by making successive impressions thereon with a printing ruler furnished with the said ground colour, making such an im- pression whenever the cylinder is detained at one of its divisions, whereof the number corresponds to the mmiber of the squares in the pattern paper, (beneath number 5 at top,) which squares are there filled with the said ground colour, viz., the squares numbered CARPETING. 235 1 to 21, in Fig 111, and then the squares numbered 26 to 47, and 49 to 52, 54 to 57, and 59 to 72. And, note, when the design paper indicates that impressions of the same colour are to be re- peated in succession, those repetitions may be expedited by using printing rulers of double or treble the usual breadth of one division on the circumference of the cylinder. The fifth set of yarns (con- sisting, in this instance, of 6 yarns in number) being now rendered party-coloured, the moveable portions H H of the circumference of the cylinder are folded inwards, in the manner represented in Figs. 114 and 115, and as before described, in order to slacken and set the yarns loose thereon ; and then the oiled cloth cover with the yarns upon it is removed from the circumference of the cylinder, which is immediately put together again, and another clean oil cloth is applied thereon, in readiness, for receiving the next set of yarns which are to be rendered party-coloured, according to the order of succession which is indicated by tracing the design paper Fig. Ill, from the square numbered 6 at top downwards through all the squares beneath the same. Each set of yarns which is removed from the cylinder along with the oil cloth covering thereof, as be- fore mentioned, is kept extended over two sticks until the colours become dry, and then the yarns are made up into a large hank or bundle, and submitted to steam by the usual process of steam print- ing, in order to fix the colours, and the yarns are then washed in water, to remove the gum or paste with which the colours were mixed up, and after being dried, the yarns are wound off upon bob- bins in readiness for forming them into a warp for the loom. In forming which warp, each set of party-coloured yarns must take their proper place in the breadth of the warp for which they were originally intended when they were coloured with the succession of colours which is indicated by the design paper. In forming the warp by drawing otF the yarns from the said bobbins, it may either be beamed on the yarn roller of the loom, or the yarns may proceed at once from their bobbins to the loom, to be drawn off there-from, as fast as the operation of weaving requires. Respecting the weaving of figured fabrics out of yarns which have been rendered party coloured, suitably for that purpose, by Whytock's method, hereinbefore described, it is only necessary to remark, that the loom may be such as is commonly used for plain weaving, without any of the apparatus required for figure weaving, and the manipulations may be the same as those for plain weaving of the like fabrics to those on which it is intended to produce figured patterns by using party coloured yarns. And, on this head, 236 THE ART OF WEAVING. it only remains to explain a precautionary measure which is used during the progress of the weaving, to ensure that all the several yarns of the warp shall preserve their proper relative positions in the direction of their length, without any alteration thereof, during the weaving, from one end of the piece to the other, viz. In ap- plying the colour to each set of yarns, eitlier the first or the last of the impressions, which is made, when the cylinder stands at its division 1, must be of such a decided character, that its place on every yarn can always be distinguished with certain t}^ ; or, a nar- row black impression may be made across ever)^ set of the yarns, when the cylinder stands at its division 1, as a common starting place for all the yarns, and for all the sets of yarns ; which decided impression, or narrow black impression, in consequence of the cir- cumvolutions which the yarns make around the cyhnder, will be repeated at every place along the length of each yarn, where the repetitions of the pattern are intended to begin and to end. In short, when the part}' coloured yarns are afterwards formed into a warp, the said marks will indicate the junctions of the successive repetitions of the pattern ; and if the yarns are all adjusted so that those marks on each yarn will range in a straight line, square across the breadth of the warp, then a correct pattern will be formed by the party colours of the yarns ; and all the precaution that is required during the progress of the weaving, is to keep all the yarns so adjusted in length, that all others of the said marks, at every succeeding repetition of the pattern, shall continue to range in straight lines, and square across. To ensure this condition, a clamp, similar to that represented in Fig. 110 is used, which is composed of two straight rulers W X, united by screws v. v, which draw the edges of the two rulers W X together, and their adjacent edges are covered with cloth. This clamp is applied across the warp, with one of its rulers above the yarns and the other below them, near to the place where the said marks must range in a straight line, square across the warp, and there the clamp is fast- ened by its screws v, v, so as to hold all the yarns fast j^etween the edges of its two rulers W X, in order to confine them to their rela- tive positions end ways in respect to each other. As the weaving proceeds, the clamp Fig. 110 advances along with the yarn; and when the length of the pattern has been woven, the weaving must be suspended, whilst the screws v, v, of the clamp are loosened, to set it free on the yarns, and it is then taken back along with them, to the next succeeding marks ; and, if those marks do not range in a straight Une, and square across the warp as they ouglit to do, CARPETING. 237 those yarns which are too forward must be pulled back or stretched until the marks are made to range, and then the clamp is to be again screwed fast on the yarns, to confine them in their true relative positions, whilst another length of pattern is woven ; after which the clamp is again shifted to the next succeeding set of marks and so on until the weaving of the whole piece is completed. This method of working with the clamp Fig. 110 during the pro- gress of the weaving, is only requisite in case the yarns are drawn ofl' at once from the bobbins to form the warp in the loom as the weaving goes on, without using a yarn beam to the loom : but, if the warp is formed and gathered on a yarn beam by a previous operation to the weaving, then the clamp Fig. 110 must be used in the manner above described during the operation of beaming, but it will not be afterwards required during the weaving of the warp which has been so formed from the yarn beam. Note. It has been, by way of example, stated that the design, Fig. Ill, contains 72 squares in length, and that the circumference of the cylinder is to be divided also into 72 parts ; but this supposes a pattern of small extent, and a small cylinder. A large pattern would require a large cylinder, but on a large cylinder a small pat- tern might be repeated two, three, or more times. The cylinders which the inventor uses in rendering yarns party coloured for a vel- vet pile carpet, are 6 yards in circumference ; but he finds it prefera- ble to divide the circumference into 144 parts, and then 144 succes- sive impressions of the printing rulers will be required to go all round the circumference : in which case a small pattern of 72 squares in length, like that in Fig. Ill, would require to be repeated twice over, in applying the party colours to each set of the yarns, after the manner hereinbefore described, before the impressions would reach all round the circumference of the cylinder. Note also, that the operation hereinbefore described, of rendering the yarns party coloured, may be expedited in case the pattern is of such a na- ture that it will admit of being divided or split down by a central line, along the middle of the breadth of the piece, into halves, and that the pattern on each of those two halves will be precisely similar side by side, except being the reverse one to the other, as the pattern would be to its reflection in a looking glass. In such case twice as many yarns may be applied at once upon the cylinder, as would be applied for a single pattern, in the manner hereinbefore described, the width of the cyhnder being suitably pro- portioned ; and after the double set of yarns have been rendered party coloured, one half of them is taken in the operation of warp- 238 THE ART OF WEAVING. ing and weaving to the left hand of the centre of the breadth of the warp, and the other to the right ; and in hke manner for pat- terns which are to repeat three or more times side by side in the breadth of the intended fabric. For instance, if tlie fabric which is to be woven to exhibit the pattern, Fig. Ill, be made double the width hereinbefore supposed, in order to contain two figured patterns, such as Fig. Ill, but reversed to each other, and disposed side by side in the breadth of the fabric, tlien, the warp for such a fabric would contain 86 sets of yarns of 6 each, 516 yarns in the whole warp. In this case a double set con- taining 12 yarns may be wound on the cy Under at once, in order that all those 12 yarns may be coloured together, and after being so coloured and finished ready for forming into a warp, the 12 yarns are to be separated into 2 sets of 6 yarns each, and one of those sets is used for the right hand half breadth of the piece, and the other set for the left hand breadth thereof But whether the whole pattern be repeated in reverse or not, any repetition side by side which con- tinues through all the length of the pattern wiU aflford the opportu- nity of colouring an increased number of threads at once. The colouring will in all cases be better performed when the coils of yarns around the circumference of the cylinder are laid close side by side, without either crowding each other or leaving intervals be- tween the yarns ; therefore, the pulley e. on the end of the screw d d, (see Fig. 3 06) shovild be properly adapted to the size of the large pulley g, (see Fig. 112) on the end of the axis D of the cylin- der A A. according to the fineness of the threads of the screw d d, in order that the screw may be turned with such a speed in respect to the speed of the cylinder, that the screw will carry the conductor G G (see Figs. 107, 108, and 109) across the width of the cyhnder, or any portion thereof, at a proper rate of progress to lay the succes- sive convolutions of the yarns properly side by side around the cir- cumference of the cylinder ; therefore, when a coarser sort of yarns are to be wound on, a smaller pulley e, must be applied on the screw d d, to turn it quicker, and give the conductor G G a more rapid progression ; and, vice versa, when a finer sort of yarns are to be wound on, a larger pulley e, must be fixed on the end of the screw to turn it slower.* The number of yarns to be wound about the cylinder at once varies, for the reasons herein before stated, and also * The pulleys e, and g, being on the same range in Fig. 113, would appear to constitute only onepullej^; but the reader, on referring to Fig. 112 will easily understand their relative positions. CARPETING. 239 the number of convolutions of each yarn around the cyUnder varies according to the size of the cyUnder, and to the length of the yarns to be wound around it : it is necessary to adapt the machinery to those changes, for which purpose the wire eyes z, which are stuck into the two wooden rails R S of the conductor G G, (see Figs. 106, 107 and 108) and the loops on m, which guide the yarns, may be very numerous in a row, and the yarns may be conducted through those eyes which suit best. In order to preserve as much as possible the form and regularity of the several coils made by each yarn and set of yarns, around the cylinder, after they are taken off therefrom, and during the processes of steaming and washing them, as aforesaid, it is proper to pass a small cord of worsted amongst the convolutions, under and over them alternately, tying its ends together. This interlacing of a cord across the several coils may be applied at two different places of each set of coils, before they are taken off from the cylinder, and it will facilitate the winding afterwards upon bobbins, as it will preserve the yarns from entanglement. In rendering the yarns party-coloured for Turkey carpets, they must be coloured by the same method herein before described, but with the order of succession of colours according to the horizontal rows of squares across the design paper, instead of according to the perpendicular rows of squares thereon ; because the figures or pat- terns on Turkey carpets are not formed as in the other fabrics herein before mentioned, by gathering up the warp threads, but by loop- ing and knotting in detached tufts upon the ground warp. In the ordinary mode of fabricating such carpets, different individuals are generally employed on one piece of carpet, each of them having cer- tain portions allotted to him, and which he is to fill with tufts. In using the party-coloured yarns for these tufts, the portions given to each of the workers must be coloured, so as to correspond to the part of the figure he is to work, or if the yarn has been coloured for a very extensive pattern, each long yarn might be divided into equal portions, and distributed amongst the number of hands to be employed, whereby there would be less risk of mistakes than in the ordinary method : the tuft with which one person would leave off would answer to the commencing colour of the next portion. Having explained and set forth, by suitable drawings and des- cription, the nature and objects of Mr. Whytock's invention and the manner of carrying the same into effect, we shall now proceed to describe some alterations made upon it by a relation of ours, Mr. Edward Henshall, carpet manufacturer, Huddersfield, England. 240 THE ART OF WEAVING. The reader will, indeed, perceive, that Whytock's description covers most of the giouud claimed by Henshall, but, nevertheless, ihere are some features of novelty or difference in the latter individual's arrangements worthy of attention ; and from this consideration we have been led to make proper drawings* of his machinery while in actual operation ; in which undertaking we have been at much trouble and expense : however, we will not grudge all that we have thus sacrificed, if by any means the machinery and processes of Whytock and Henshall shall be so amalgamated as to enable some of our brethren to supersede the present tedious system of manufac- turing carpets. If even 25 or 30 yards of Bi-ussels, velvet pile, or the Whytock carpet could be woven in one power loom per day, of 10 working hours, we think the old method migbt then be con- sidered as on the high road to Texas ; and after its disappearance from all civilized society, the parties who survived the grand catastro- phe (particularly if high-tarif-men) would, no doubt, make mag- nificent fortunes. Henshall's improvements in manufacturing carpets, and hearth rugs, consist. Firstly. — In the application and use of a peculiar and novel arrangement of apparatus, designed for the purpose of wind- ing the threads of yarns which are to constitute the warp threads of Brussels, Wilton, velvet, or velvet piled, or other similar carpets and hearth-rugs, from separate hanks of yarn, and laying two, three, or more threads, side by side, as if in tapes or bands upon one bobbin, and thus preparing the threads for a two or three-thread warp, before they are placed in the loom for weaving, (same as in Whytock's.) Secondly. — The invention consists in an improved construction of apparatus, and a novel mode of operation, as well as the pecu- liar arrangement of the yarns which are to constitute warp threads, whereby, spots, squares, or stripes, may be printed upon a flat sur- face or table, by means of an ordinary block or type printing appa- ratus, in different colours, across a collection or number of yarns or threads so arranged, that they may, after being so printed upon the table, be wound again upon a reel into hanks, and taken off the reel, and removed to be steamed, washed, and dried, in order to clear, raise, or fix the colours, as in the ordinary process of printing woollen yarns. It must be observed, that each spot, square, or stripe, may be printed or stamped of any breadth of the block, or length of the threads or yarns, according to the pattern required, as the portion *Thi? we did in August 1840. CARPETING. 241 of the yarn so printed or stamped is intended to form one or more loops of the fabric, when thrown up by the weaving ; that is to say, if two or more loops, in succession, are required to be of the same colour, to form the pattern of the carpet, the threads or yarns must be printed or coloured at once, over a sufficient space of the length, to form these two or more loops ; this may be done with a block or type of the required breadth or length for two or more loops in the cloth, hereafter more particularly explained. (See Fig. Ill and its explanation.) The object of this part of the invention, is to operate upon a greater number of threads or yarns, and produce the printed, or stamped, spotted, or striped yarns, direct from the bobbins ; and after printing or colouring, to wind them at once direct from the printing table into separate hanks, all of which is done at one ope- ration. These warps, when subsequently arranged, form the warps of as many carpets, or hearth-rugs, in contra-distinction to printing, stamping, or colouring the yarns collectively, when arranged in the form of a warp, with a pattern or device complete upon the sur- face of such warp, and ready to be woven in the loom, as hitherto practised under the patented inventions of Messrs. Woodcroft, Schwabe, Whytock, and Whytock and Clink ; the first two per- sons printing or dyeing the intended pattern or device complete upon the perfect or arranged warp, either before or after beaming ; and the latter, either printing on yarns, wound on a cylinder, or producing the colours by dyeing the said )'arns. When the threads or yarns have been so printed, they are pro- perly arranged, as hereafter described, in order to form the warp threads of the carpets and hearth-rugs ; they are then woven in an ordinary carpet loom. This part of the invention also comprises the arrangement of the threads, and apparatus connected therewith. Thirdly. — These alterations on Whytock's plans consist of an arrangement of machinery, by means of which, the warp, yarn, or threads, or warp throughout its whole length, can be woven into a slight gauze-work, having weft threads put in at distances of about an inch asunder ; and this is done during the operation of beaming the warp direct from the bobbins. After the warp-yarn has been thus prepared, patterifs or designs may be printed upon its surface, in the ordinary manner of block printing. In printing the gauze, the pattern-blocks must be elongated when intended for Brussels or similar carpets or hearth-rugs, as before named ; and this is accomplished by providing the block, upon 31 242 THE ART OF WEAVING. which the pattern is wrought, about three-fifths longer than the finished pattern will require, when the cloth is completed, as the operation of weaving will weave, or loop up, the extra three-fifths of printed gauze. The gauze, when printed, is removed to be steamed, washed, and dried, in the ordinary manner of woollen printing ; after which, it is re-beamed, and woven in an ordinary plain carpet loom, the preparatory weft threads of the gauze, bemg removed as the cloth is woven. Fourthly. — The improvements consist in weaving, in a common simple loom, Brussels or similar carpets, or looped fabrics, as Wil- ton or velvet piled carpets and hearth-rugs, plain, either in white or grey yarn, or any colour, intended as the ground of the pattern ; and afterwards printing upon the said plain goods, any pattern or device, in the ordinary manner of block or machine printing, the colour parts of which may be raised, washed, and dried in the usual way. The carpet is then distended, and the back stiffened with size or other suitable matter, as may be found requisite. Kg 116 243 Fig. 116 represents a front elevation of an improved winding ap- paratus, constituting the first part of the improvements ; Fig. 117 is an end view ; and Fig. 118 is a plan or horizontal view of the same, as seen from above. These Figs, will be sufficient to illustrate two methods of carrying this part of the invention into effect, viz. doubling from hanks, or skeins, or separate bobbins, as one side of the frame is represented having the hanks or skeins, and the other the bobbins. The machine consists of a slight frame a, a, a, the upper part of which supports the reels 6, 6, 6, (see Figs. 116 and 117) containing the hanks of yarn c, c, c. The lower part of the framing supports the driving shaft c?, d, (see Figs. 116 and 118) upon which is keyed the pulley e*, to which driving power is to be appUed. Upon this shaft c?, a series of wooden drums/,/./, are also mounted, which revolve with it and drive, by friction of contact, the bobbins g,g. and m, m. 244 THE ART OF WEAVING. The yarns or threads being taken separately from the hanks c, c, c, two, three, or more of them are brought together, and passed through the eyes h, in the stationary guide-rail i, i ; thence through the eyes or hooks A*, /i*, on the traversing guide-rail i*, i*, (see Figs. 116 and 117.) These threads are then wound upon one of the bobbins g; side by side, so that the two, three, or more, will readily unwind from the bobbins, at the same speed, and thus always pre- serve an uniformity, in length and tension. The guide-rails i*, are traversed to and fro, in order to lay the yarn evenly upon the surfaces of the bobbins, by means of the lever k, being moved by the heart or excentric motion I, (see Figs. 116 and 117) geared with the other end of the driving shaft. It will be observed, by the drawing, that a similar arrangement is represented upon the other side of the machine, except that the three threads are being wound together upon the bobbin m, from off bobbins n,n, (see Figs. 117 and 118) instead of the reels b,b, or hanks c, c, c. The apparatus necessary to perform the second part of the im- provements, namely, the arranging, printing, or stamping, and reel- ing of the threads or yarns, intended to be woven into carpets or rugs, is shewn in longitudinal elevation at Fig. 119. Any number of bobbins containing the yarns, are placed at a', a', upon spindles mounted (either vertically or in any other manner) in the boards 6^, as a creel, the yarns from which are passed between the friction guide rollers c*, c*, and one, two, or more threads (ac- CARPETING. 245 246 THE ART OF WEAVING. cording to the quality of the carpet required) are drawn through each space of the wires in the sley or reed e ; say ten or twenty of sucli threads are passed through the reed, side by side, and form a band ; a space or blank, of about the same width as the band of yarns, is then left in the reed ; and again, a similar number of threads and spaces are left alternately, until the reed is filled. The ends of all the threads are then to be confined in a nipper or clasp g^. and di-awn tightly across the printing or stamping table h^. The operation of ordinary block-printing or stamping, is now to be per- formed, which must be governed by the pattern paper, as in ordi- nary figme weaving ; spots, stripes, or squares, only, are to be printed or stamped, and not any regular fancy pattern or device. It -^ill be necessary to have an ordinary squared or plaid pattern paper, every square or plaid of which corresponds ^^ilh each two or three threads of the intended carpet, as in Fig. Ill ; and after the pattern, to be produced, has been carefully coloured upon the design or ruled paper, by examinmg the paper, the workman or printer must be governed or directed in printing or colouring the yarn. Small blocks or types, the breadth of the band of threads, and the length required for one, two, or more loops of the carpet, when woven, must be provided, according as the pattern paper directs, and screwed up into a small hand block, like those used for marking shirts ; — thus, if the pattern directs one loop should be prhited or stamped black, one type or block must be placed to print or stamp it, and then the number of blanks and printing types which follow, are added, until one hand block of a convenient length, is formed ; the whole being screwed together ; or a single block may be used, taking one or more colours from a party-coloured sieve, at the same dip, and applying it direct to the yarns. When the entire bands or lengths of the warp threads have been piiiited or stamped, as they are passed over the table, they must be each distinguished by a number or letter.* After the length of threads, lying at one time upon the surface of the table A'^, /i'^, Fig. 119, has been printed or stamped, the nipper or clasp £•', is tobe closed on to the threads which pass over the table h". h". in order to remove the length just printed and allow another length of the yarns to be drawn over the printing table. The printed or stamped threads are hung upon wooden rollers to partially dry (as shown in Fig. 119) and are afterwards com- pletely dried, by passing over the heated cylinder V : thence they * Insti^ad of the waymarks or hieroglyphics used by WTiylock. CARPETING. 247 proceed over guide rails w, and being there separated by upright wires, are wound into hanks upon the reels 71 n. The hanks must also be carefully numbered, when taken off the reels, each hank forming only one warp thread, the entire length of the piece,— the same numbers being of course em- ployed, as previously marked in the printing ; they may then be steamed, washed and dried, or otherwise treated, as in woollen printing. When these hanks are required to form the warp threads of carpets or rugs, they are to be wound again upon bobbins, which are numbered the same as the hanks. The bobbins should then be taken in their numbered order, and in sufficient quantities to make a full warp, as we have already explained in the account of Whytock's carpet. The bobbins a a, are now to be placed upon spindles and boards 6^ as just described, shown in Figs. 116, 117 and 120, beginning with thread No. 1, and passing it through the first space of the sley or reed e, and so on for the entire width ; then the full warp is to be beamed on the roller /- /^ for the loom (see Fig. 121) direct from the bobbins,— which being done, the beam of warp may be removed to a common plain cloth loom (hke that shown in Fig. 120) to be woven. Fig. 120. Figs. 121 and 122 represent a plan and side view of a slight 248 THE ART OF WEAVING. temporary loom, in which the thiid part of these improvements is effected. ri°:l21 Kg 122 A similar creel of bobbins a' a' a' to those before described, are placed upon the boards and spindles 6^ 6^ and contain the warp threads, either single, double, or treble, according to the quahty of the mtended fabric ; but, iastead of beaming ihem at once for the loom, they are passed over guide or friction rollers c* c* through the headles d^ d^ and reed or sley e, (see Figs. 121 and 122) and at every inch or more of space, a weft thread o^ is thrown, in order to convert the warp tliread or yarns into a preparatory gauze-work, CARPETING. 249 without weaving any positive or permanent fabric or cloth ; thus a partial weaving is effected with the temporary cross threads o^, by means of the headles d^ d^ and sley e ; the gauze is then drawn off the beani/-/^, by means of the tooth gearing g^, and winch or handle li^, and is then ready for printing. (See Figs. 120 and 122.) MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS, RUGS, Sec, BY CEMENTING A NAP OR PILE ON PLAIN CLOTH. A method of manufacturing carpets, hearth-rugs &.c., has lately been discovered, which differs so much from those already described, and at the same time possesses so much merit, that we think our Work would be incomplete, without giving an account of it. This method is, indeed, so unlike the ordinary modes of manufacturing carpets, hearth-rugs &c. that it cannot, properly speaking, be con- sidered under the head of any branch of weaving at all ; it will, however, be interestmg to both weavers and manufacturers, to have a full explanation of it, as it is hkely to supersede many of their present processes. This remarkable invention attracted considerable notice at the time of its first introduction, in 1838 ; and several machines are now in operation, upon the principle of it, in England and Belgium. We have made the annexed drawings and description from a machine, while at work in the latter country ; and hope that our efforts may prove beneficial to many of our friends. Fig. 123, represents a perspective view of a machine suitable for carrying out the first part of the invention, a a, is a quadrangular frame having the guides b, h, affixed by screAvs or other suitable means, allowing of their being readily removed to take out the work. Fiff. 123. 250 THE ART OF WEAVING. The frame a, a, is supported by the legs or frame c, c. On the under side of each of the guides is a groove or space between the guide and the frame a, the object of which will be hereafter fully explained, d, d, is a roller or beam (see Figs. 123 and 125) on which is warped a number of yarns or threads of worsted, wool, cotton, silk, or other fibrous materials, or mixtures thereof, in like manner to winding or beaming a warp for a loom, as if the same were to be woven into a fabric, in the ordinary way of weaving vvdth warp and weft, and the warp beam or roller d, d, is weighted and has friction cords or bands, as is practised in looms for weaving, and as is shown in the drawing. The ends of the warp threads are made fast to the front rail of the frame a, in hke manner to fastening a warp to the cloth roUer of a loom. The workman then proceeds to work in the following manner ; he has a number of strips of thin metal, such as copper, zinc, or other suitalile mate- rial ; the strips being all of the same size ; and are to be in width what the depth of the desired nap is to be. and of a length some- what gi-eater than the width of the fabric to be produced in the ma- chine ; the frame a, (see Fig. 123) and guides b, b, are to have a space between them equal to the width of the intended fabric to be pro- duced. The workman first places one of the strips of metal under the warp, and draws it up to the end, and parallel with the front rail of the frame a, the two ends of the strip being placed under the guides b, b, by which they are prevented rising up ; he then places the next strip edgeways on the upper surface of the warp, and depresses the warp evenly between the first and second strip, and he springs or bends the second strip in such a manner as to allow of the two ends thereof entering into the grooves formed between the guides b. b, and the sides of the frame a. He then places another strip under the warp, and raises the same up evenly between the second and third strips, and he bends the strip in such a manner as to cause the two ends to enter the grooves formed between the guides and the sides of the frame a, and then straightens the strip so as to lay the same parallel with the preceding ones ; then he takes a fourth strip and places it on the upper surface of the warp, and depresses the threads thereof evenly between the third and fourth strips, and causes the ends of the fourth strip to enter the grooves formed be- tween the guides b, b, and the frame a, and with a straight-edge he presses the strips up evenl}' from time to time, so that they may each be kept upright on their edges and in straight lines parallel to each other, and when the frame a. a, is full, the yarns or threads composing the warp will be so arranged between the strips of metal CARPETS, RUGS, &C. 251 or other suitable material, as to pass first over, then under, each succeeding strip, as is shown in Fig. 124. Fig. 124. If The warp thus arranged should have a smooth surface of metal or other suitable material passed over and pressed on the upper side in order to lay and press the yarns or threads down evenly, and also to cause them to spread out in such manner as to produce a touching of the fibres throughout, so that when a suitable cement shall be placed or spread tliereon and dried, the whole will become one sheet of fabric when the strips are removed by cutting, as will be hereafter more fully explained. The cementing material used by the im-entor is India-rubber (caoutchouc:) but other materials, such as shellac, may be employed instead. One or more coats of India-rubber, or other cement, is to be spread over the surface of the warp, arranged and prepared as above explained, and permitted to dry, and in this condition the frame a, a. may be turned over, and then, by a sharp knife or other suitable cutting instrument, the strips may be successively removed by cutting the yarn from side to side of the fabric, in like manner to cutting the warp when weav- ing velvet, or Wilton carpet ; but it is not necessary to have the strips grooved, as is the case with the wires used in making velvet, but they may be grooved, if it is desired to be very correct in the cutting. The fabric thus prepared is then suitable to be applied to woven textures or other surfaces, by cementing it thereto, but it is preferable that the back of the woven fabric should be cemented on to the v. arp, immediately on the warp or pile having been heated with the cement, and before cutting out the strips of metal (as shown in Figs. 123 and 124) or other suitable material employed, and this may be performed by having first spread a layer of the cement on the warp, and another on to the fabric which is to con- stitute the back, and then bring the two cemented surfaces together and press them well ; and if the surfaces be extensive the pressure may be conveniently performed by means of a smooth iron roller passed over the upper surface, such roller being made hollow, may- be heated with an iron heater. In case it be required to make car- pets, or rugs, or other fabrics, with patterns, then it will be desirable to print the yarns or threads in the warp, but each pattern in the printing must be so lengthened as to allow of the bending up of the 252 THE ART OP WEAVING. yarn, and the colours used must well penetrate the warp (see Why- tock's and Henshall's methods.) Fig. 125 Fis. 125 Fig. 126. Fig. 127. shows another arrangement of machinery for performing a like operation of bending lengths of threads or yarns to that above described ; the only difference being that the frame a, and guides b, are formed into a cylinder, and this machine requires that the fabric when produced should be unwound before the cutting out of the CARPETS, RUGS, &C. 253 strips : in other respects the description above given, aided by the drawings, will be sufficient, the same letters indicating similar parts in this machine as were used in Fig. 123. And it will be seen that the cyhnder a, a, has an axis with suitable bearings at each end, in order that it may be turned round by the workman as he proceeds with his work. Another means of performing this opera- tion of bending a number of threads or yarns (in such manner that each portion of thread or yarn when cut shall be cemented at a point or part intermediate of its length, and the two ends thereof rise to the surface and form the warp of the fabric,) may be em- ployed in the following manner ; in place of warping the threads or yarns on a roller or beam, as above explained, and then bending the warp over and under a series of thin strips of metal, as in Figs. 123 and 124, the strips may have thread or yarn wound spirally around them, as is shown at Fig. 126, and then a number of such covered strips are to be packed side by side in a frame a, a, and the yarns or threads cemented together and to a suitable fabric, and the strips cut there-from as above explained. We have stated that the looped up threads or yarns were to be cemented to a cloth, which would serve as a back, yet under some circumstances it will be preferable not to perform that operation, such as in making a suitable napped fabric for the covering of hats and bonnets, in which case the napped fabric being made, as above explained, in place of cementing it to any fabric, it is to be cemented dkectly on to the hat or bonnet. We will now proceed to describe the second part of the invention, which relates to another mode of manufacturmg carpets, rugs, and other napped fabrics, which differs from that above described, but is capable of being so worked as to produce very ornamental sur- faces and may be made to resemble tapestry and highly finished paintings, depending on the taste of the j)erson who works the pattern as will be hereafter explained. Fig. 127 represents a frame or apparatus suitable for working the pattern when performing the second part of the invention. AAA A A are quadrangular frames affixed on the board B B. Over each of the end frames A, is evenly stretched canvas, such as is used for worsted work, in such manner that the canvas at each end shall be stretched to coincide one with the other as nearly as possible can be done. The person who works the pattern is to pro- ceed as follows : — By means of a needle he draws the worsted, w^ool, or other yarn or thread through a hole or mesh in the canvas at one end, and 254 THE ART OF WEAVING. through a corresponding' hole in the canvas in the other frame A, commencing the work at the lower corner hole, and working successively through each hole of the lower rows of the surfaces of canvas ; then the next above, (taking care that the thread or yarn between the frames A Ue even and smooth, and are drawn equally tight) and the work is to be continued till the yarn has been passed through every hole, when there would be a long quadrangular mass of yarn or thread, which is to be encompassed with a box or case C, (see Fig. 128.) open at both ends ; and having so encompassed and secured the mass of yarn or thread, the same ma}" be cut awa)'- from the canvas or fabric, and a piston or rammer inserted into the box or case C, which, fitting closely on all sides, will, when desired, force out portions or lengths of the yarn, in order that the same may be cut off after it has been combined by cementing it into a fabric, as will be hereafter more fully described ; and the ends of the fibres in the box C, against which the ram is to press, should be ce- mented to the ram and permitted to dry, before commencing to force out the mass of yarn by the ram. Above we have given our readers an account of the mode of work- ing wdthout reference to the pattern ; and we shall now proceed to show how a design or pattern may be worked in the frame, and sub- sequently transferred and subdivided into a multitude of surfaces, or portions of surfaces. We would first remark, however, that the can- vas, or fabric used on the frames A should be fine or coarse, ac- cording to the degree of fineness of the yarn or thread used, whether of worsted, wool, cotton, silk, or other fibrous materials or mixtures thereof, and the pattern or design is to be worked or executed with the needle, b)^ counting the meshes, and drawing through colours according to the order of the pattern set before the person perform- ing this part of the work, drawing the thread or yarn through each of the frames, as has been above explained: or it maA^, in some pat- terns, be performed by marking the canvas. Thus, supposing that the pattern to be produced was a red jack-ass on a white groimd, and that the shape of the ass was marked on the canvas, the per- son working would continue to draw white yarn or thread through the canvas so long as the lower part of the frame was to receive the ground, then with white and then with red. according as the portions of the row of meshes or holes, of the canvas across from side to side was ground or pattern, and so on till all the holes were worked through and the said quadruped completed. Having per- formed this operation, he would surround the warp of yarn or thread with the box or case C, as above explained, the boxes or cases C, CARPETS, RUGS, &C. 255 being formed in parts capable of being put together readily, by screws or otherwise. We have chosen this simple pattern in order to give a clear description of this part of the mode of working as practised by the ingenious inventor, but from the foregoing descrip- tion a person will readily be able to perform other patterns, of varied degrees of intricacy, depending on the taste of the design, which should be drawn on paper such as is now used in working worsted work on canvas ; that is, by having the colours in small equal- sized squares, as is well understood, and consequently forms no part of the present contrivance, and then, by counting the meshes or interstices of the fabric, draw in threads of the colour required, and as may be marked in the design paper. Or in some cases the pat- tern may be marked on the canvas or fabric, on the frame A A A A A (see Fig. 127.) When the frames are full a case C is applied, just sufficient to embrace the mass of threads or yarns, and retain the same closely together in such manner, that in forcing the mass of threads or yarns through the case in which they are in- cluded, they will be prevented getting out of the correct position. Hence each successive portion or slice cut off from the end of the case, will be a repetition of the same pattern, which being combined together will produce a carpet, or rug, or other napped fabric, de- pending on the natuie of the fibrous materials employed, and the mode of getting up the same. There are other methods by which masses of yarns or fibres may be obtained within cases or boxes C, and worked therefrom accord- ing to the invention. We will now explain two other modes, slightly differing from each other, and from the one above explained ; but by both the object of this part of the invention may be obtained, whereby a mass of yarns, or threads, or such lilce combination of fibres may be produced in masses, in suitable cases or boxes, and allow of a succession of cuts or slices being successively taken there- from, in order to produce successive surfaces, or portions of surfaces, which being cemented before cutting, will form the nap of fabrics. Fig. 128 represents a perspective view of an apparatus or ma- chine wherein a number of warp rollers «, a, a, each having wound thereon threads or yarns of any suitable fibre, according to the fabric desired to be produced, the warp rollers being equally weighted. ' Each layer or warp of yarns is made fast to a rod, which keeps the layers of thread separate (as shown in the Fig.,) and correctly placed, one warp above the other ; and having so obtained a mass of threads or yarns, the same is to be enclosed in a suitable case or box C, as above described. Such boxes or cases C, may be of any 256 THE ART OF WEAVING. convenient length, say twelve inches, which is a convenient length, and they may be successively cut from the body of warps, taking care that before cutting off one box or case, or more, securely en- compass the body of yarns or threads, in order to hold them se- curely, the cut or slice being made between the cases or boxes by a sharp thin knife, or such suitable razor-like instrument. Each of these boxes or cases C, will then be worked off by having suitable pistons placed, and forced through them, as above explained, or in cases where the length of nap will allow of it, the cases or boxes C, may be made of parts, each only as deep as the intended nap. Then, in order to cut off each successive layer or shce. India-rubber or other suitable cement should be evenly spread over the external ends of the body of warps. In order to cement all the ends together, a shce, and case or box C, may be cut off, starting with several such narrow cases, and applying one around the yarn as one is cut off, in order to retain the nap secure, the cases C being hinged or otherwise. Fig. 129 shows another mode of obtaining a body of threads or CARPETS, RUGS, &.C. 257 yarns into a box or case, in order to allow of a succession of slices or surfaces being cut off to form napped fabrics. It consists in what may be called a folding machine, whereby a warp of yarns or threads, either all of one colour, or of intermixed colours, accord- rig to the will of the party, and depending on the description of napped fabrics it is desired to produce. a, is a warp roller, on to which the threads or yarns are beamed. 6, 6, is a table ; and c, part of a box or case in which it is desired to pack a quantity of threads or yarns, and C, is the top or cover of the case. The Avarp is made fast to a rod, which is at one end of the case C C ; and is then drawn evenly to the opposite end of a case, and a rod or other suitable intruraent is laid across the top of the warp ; the warp is then taken evenly back to the other end of the case C C, and another rod laid on, and the Avarp again brought to the other end of the case and another rod laid on till the warp is folded, and the case is full, the rods being of such a length as to protrude beyond the end of the case C C, and in order to pack the whole closely, the rods are kept pressed down by the weighted in- struments D, at each end of the box or case C C, and when a number of layers of the warp have been folded, the lower rods may be succes- sively removed, in order to allow the layers to go more closely together, and by this means a body of threads will be packed in a case or box, from which may be cut a succession of slices, each slice forming the napped surface, or part of the napped surface of a fabric. We 33 258 THE ART OF WEAVING. have thus far spoken of the frames or cases into which the threads or yarns are packed as being rectangular, but we would remark, that they may be of other forms, depending on circumstances. By which arrangement, where an extensive surface is desired to be napped, the cases or boxes may be made into such forms as will, when combined together, produce the shapes required, and place the patterns, or parts of the pattern, in the proper place, which ar- rangement will allow of the patterns or ornamental designs (which require the most time in packing) being worked into separate boxes or cases, and the threads or yarns which are to form ihe ground may be in separate boxes or cases C. "Whatever be the course pursued in obtaining bodies of yarns or threads in boxes or cases, as above explained, the fibres at the end of which may protude, should be carefully shaved or cut off evenly, and India rubber, or other suitable cement, is to be laid on to the surface of fibres and permitted to dry sufficiently before the ram or piston is caused to force a quantity equal to the length of the de- sired nap from the case C. When sufficiently dry, and on exami- nation the cement appears to be complete over the whole surface, the piston or ram is to force out of the case or box C, a length equal to the length of the nap ; when that cjuantity is to be cut off with a sharp knife, or other suitable instrument, and the ends of the yarn which is in the case or box, are to be again coated with cement, and so on till the whole is cut up into shces, which may be afterwards applied, by cement, to canvas or other fabrics, or to other surfaces, or in place of cutting when the fibres have been only combined with cement, they may be further combined by cementing on canvass or other fabrics before cutting ; and for hats and such hke fabrics, where it is desired to have a laid nap, then this may be accomplished by having the end of the boxes or cases from which the cut is made, on a bevel, and the face of the ram also of a bevel. Hence each shce or surface will be protruded and cut on a bevel or angular direction, and when cemented together will produce a laid nap surface or fabric. Having now given to the reader a practical description of this novel method of manufacturing carpets, rugs, and other similar fab- rics, we would, before dismissing the subject, further remark, that we see nothing to prevent the application of steam or water power, instead of manual labour, in performing all the operations required. By this means, 60 strips of metal, to raise the nap or pile, might easily be inserted per minute ; at the distance of about 2 yards from the scene of action, where the inserting process was going on, CHENILLE. 259 a cementing or soldering apparatus could be at work simultaneously ; and at the distance of other two yards from this, another contriv- ance might be actively engaged in cutting out the strips as fast as they advanced with the cemented fabric ; which would here be quite dry. The distance of this point from the last inserted strip would, of course, be about 4 yards ; and, allowing 20 strips to the inch of the piled or napped fabric, only 28S0 strips would be re- quired for the 4 yards, from beginning to the end thereof. We think that from 300 to 305, or 306, yards of perfect nap or pile might be produced per day, from one machine of this description, working 10 horns, and with the supeiintendence of a mere child. Should any of the enterprizing individuals, Avho may chance to embark in such an undertaking, meet with any difficulties, they nmst not be dis- couraged ; for every obstacle must vanish, or at least give way, when opposed by the combined powers of body and mind. CHENILLE. The ingenious Alexander Buchannan, of Paisley, Scotland, in- vented this beautiful fabric, about the year 1820.* It derives its beauty and lustre from the peculiar mode of preparing the weft, and the manner in which the colours are afterwards arranged ; in so much, that a pattern which would require a large harness, as an imitation shawl, can be woven without any other apparatus than a ground mounting and two treadles. The weft, which is called chenille, is prepared as follows : — A Turkey gauze warp, of net yarn, is woven in a 1200 reed, with a twist or dentful in every fifth interval, the weft being either silk, cot- ton, or worsted, according to the kind of shawls to be manufactured. When this fal)ric comes from the loom, it is cut up (by a suitable machine) in the centre between the dentfuls of warp ; and after receiving a little twist to throw the ends of the cut weft into a spiral * About this period, Mr. Buchanan exhibited a specimen of his newly in- vented fabric, to his worlhy fellow-townsman, Robert Farquharson, Esq., then provost of Paisley ; which circumstance is thus alluded to by a local poet : — " Philanthropic Rab, Sae smooth o' heart, though rough o' gab, Soon as he saw the curious wab, He gaz'd wi' wonner, And said, it was a genuine job, Upon his honour." 260 THE ART OF WEAVING. direction, it is ready for the weaver. The warp of the shawl is hkewise a Turkey gauze, the same as that which is the foundation of the weft, so that when a sufficient quantity of chenille has been produced from a warp, it is customary to make shawls of the re- mainder, (see Chenille paper, page 511.) In weaving these shawls, one pick of the chenille is thrown in, and then three of the common weft, whether silk, cotton, or worsted, and the fibres of the chenille, projecting in all directions, give the fabric tlie appearance of a fine glossy shag, showing the pattern, when figured, alike on both sides. When the shawls are to be of one uniform colour, only one kind of weft is necessary ; but when they are to be figured, different colours are employed, and these are woven in spaces adapted to the difierent parts of the design ; the pattern is painted on design paper, as for an imitation harness ; each space of the design, or that which con-esponds to a ground lash with its different colours, is again painted on a separate slip of design paper, but two spaces are here coloured, to make them better seen by the weaver, leaving a blank space on each side : these slips are all numbered, to prevent con- fusion. Supposing a web of trimmings were to be woven, with eight re- peats in the breadth of a yard, for the first pick of chenille, we take the slip of paper Xo. 1 : by reading it. as for a sample, there are 2 spaces j^ellow, 1 white, 4 red, 2 yellow, 1 black, 2 white, &c., the weaver works a space of each of these colours on the warp, agree- ablv to its respective size on the shp of design paper, which, when finished, must be exactly the breadth of the trimming. For a guide to tlie weaver, the slip of paper passes through the reed, and is fastened at each end to a piece of tape, by a bit of rosin, the one behind the mounting hanging over the warp roller and kept tisrht by a small weight, and the other is fastened at the face of the clotli. The weaver then has only to change his shut- tles, by shifting the boxes of the lay at the end of each coloured space, as pointed out by the design. The slip marked Xo. 2 is nest put in the reed for the second pick, and the colours woven in the same manner, but in reverse order to the first, as the one is thrown in from the right hand and the other from the left, and so on tiU the weft for the whole pattern is finished. The weft is cut in lengths of eight yards, being the quantity usu- ally wound on one bobbin or quill, and this will make eight picks in a yard-wide web ; and the bobbins are taken in succession, agree- ably to the numbers of the slip of design paper. The more tightly CHENILLE. 261 the chenille is twisted, the thicker and closer the pile becomes. This species of fabric is likewise well adapted to the rug and carpet manufacture. It appears to us, that no person who is unacquainted with weav- ing can have any idea of the variety and ingenuity of its processes ; and even some individuals who consider themselves masters of the art, know, comparatively, very little about it. Notwithstanding the apparent perfection of the methods employed in producing some of the fancy textures which we have already described, yet, we have to record improvements of immense importance upon several of them. The manufacture which we have just been considering (chenille) has recently been adapted to carpets, rugs, &c., with great success, by Messrs. Templeton and Quiglay, of Paisley, who obtained a patent, in England, dated 2.5th July, 1839, for improvements, which we shall now proceed to explain. The invention consists in weaving fabrics of silk, cotton, woollen, linen, or other fibrous materials, which are to be cut into strips, and used as weft, somewhat in the manner of chenille weft, (but with this difference, that the two edges of the strip shall inchne more towards each other,) and then weaving such strips on a ground, so that all the fur or cut edges of the strips may be brought to one side of the fabric, while the other side is plain ; and is also applicable to the manufacture of carpets, rugs, shawls, mats, covers of stools, chairs, or tables, tapestry, or any cloth or fabric requiring to be raised, so as to have the appearance of velvet, fur, or plush. A texture or fabric of silk, cotton, woollen, hnen, or of a mixture of two or more of these materials, is first woven ; having the warp threads spaced or set in the reed at certain equal distances from each other, in the following manner : — One, two, or more dents of the reed are filled with the warp threads, and then a space of the reed, {equal to double the length of the fur required,) is left empty ; then one, two, or more dents of the reed are again filled with warp threads, and another space is left empty, as above described (see Fig. 130 ;) and this is repeated until the required number of strips is completed. The warp being thus spaced and arranged in the loom, the weft is thrown in, so as to form either a plain or coloured surface, and the warp acts on the weft in the manner of gauze or cross-weaving (see Figs. 49, 50 and 53 :) that is, the warp threads, instead of being left parallel, as in common weaving, are crossed over each other by each tread on the treadles ; and the weft, when thrown in, intersects the warp, and its edges acquire a tendency to 262 THE ART OF WEAVING. come together, in consequence of the cross-weavhig wliich the warp has received. On this web being cut into strips, through the vacant spaces already described, the weft, or lateral fibres of both sides of each strip, are all thrown up on one side, and brought close together. The process is somewhat similar to that followed in making chenille weft, but with this difierence, that the fur or pile, (that is, the lateral fibres of both sides of each strip,) when cut, are all brought upon one side, and into close contact, instead of project- ing from all sides of the warp or body thread, as in the case of che- nille weft. Fig. 130, At Figs. 130 and 131, are represented two modes of cross-weav- ing, exhibiting the crossings of the warp, and intersections of tlie weft. In Fig. 130, are two dents-full of warp A A of Turkey gauze, (B B is a repetition of the same,) of three threads in the dent ; those two dents-full being separated by one empty dent C C, or otherwise. Three picks of weft or fur D D D are uncut, and six picks FEE cut in the centre. The Fig. exhibits the effect which the crossinirs FF of the warp threads have upon the fur, in causing both sides of the weft, when cut, to incline towards each other, leaving the warp threads to serve as a back-bone or back-band to the lateral threads or fibres. Fig. 131 exhibits two crossing threads G G. turn- ing round a cord or dead thread H H, which is accomplished with "bead lams" (see gauze weaving. Fig. 49.) This Fig. also ex- hibits, in some degree, (by the turned up ends of the cut weft threads 1 1 1,) the appearance of the fur when woven, and the effect the crossings produce after it has been cut. The pattern intended to be produced on cloth, manufactured partly with the prepared weft, is copied on design paper, formed with as many horizontal lines as there are to he picks of the pre- pared weft in the cloth ; after these lines of the design paper are cut asunder into st7'ips, and mmibered, the weaver enters them through the reed of tlie loom, (beginning with number one,) and TAPESTRY. 263 commences to weave the colours of weft, in the exact order in which the colours are fainted on these pieces of paper. Tlie ground-warp of the cloth is prepared with an extra warp, which may be termed the catcher-warp ; a shed is formed by both warps, to receive the ground-weft, but a shed of the catcher-warp only for the prepared weft ; there being fewer threads of the catcher- warp than the ground-warp, less resistance is offered to bringing the fur of the weft to the surface. In some cases, a portion of the ground warp is used for fixing the fur-weft upon the surface. The weaver having thrown in a pick of the fur-weft, sets it in its proper place with his hand, or otherwise, and then, with a brush, comb, or othei' instrument, raises all the fibres of the fur from the catcher-warp, or that part of the ground-warp which is to fix it on the fabric, and drives it firmly up with the reed. He now throws in as ma*iy ground or binder picks as are deemed necessary to form the ground of the cloth, and then repeats the operation of weaving in the fur, and so on, alternately, until the required length of cloth is produced. TAPESTRY. '' " This bright art. Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan hands, While she assay'd with rage of holy war To desolate their fields : but old the skill : Long were the Phrygians' pict'ring looms renown'd; Tyre also, wealthy seal of art, excell'd. And elder Sidon, in th' historic web." — Dyer. As we have, in the introductory part of this Work, (to which the reader is referred,) given ample evidence of the skill of the ancients in the manufacture of tapestry, in all its varieties, it only remains to give some account of its progress after its introduction into Europe. The first manufactories for weaving tapestry which acquired re- putation in Europe, were those of Flanders, and they appear to have been long established in that country, principally at Arras, before they were introduced either into England or France : the precise period when tapestry was first manufactured by the Belgians is uncertain. Guicceardini, in his history of the Netherlands, jmb- lished at Antwerp in 1582, ascribes to them the invention of tapes- tries, without mentioning any particular date. Whether the Bel- gians did or did not derive their knowledge from the East, to them is certainly due the honour of having restored this curious art, which 264 THE ART OF "WEAVING. gives a life to wools and silks, scarcely, if at all, inferior to the paintings of the best masters. The weaving of tapestry was first introduced into England in the time of Henry VIII, by William Sheldon, but it was not until the reign of James I, that it acquired any particular reputation. This monarch greatly patronized the art, and gave the sum of two thousand six hundred and seventy- six pounds sterling towards the advancement of a manufactory, which was established by Sir Francis Crane, at Mortlake in Sur- rey. The patterns first used for making these fabrics in England, were obtained from pieces which had already l)een worked by foreign artists.* There is an extract in Rymer's '• Fcedra," an ac- knowledgement from Charles I, that he owed Sir Francis Crane the sum of six thousand pounds Sterling for tapestries, and that he grants him the annual sum of two thousand pounds, for ten years, to enable him to support his establishment. To France, however, we are indebted for the great perfection to which this costly art has been brought in Europe. Henry IV, first established a tapestry manufactory in Paris, about the year 1606, which was conducted by several clever artists, whom he had invited from Flanders : but this, like many similar institutions founded by that monarch, was greatly neglected at his death, and would pro- bably have been entirely so, had not Colbert the minister of Louis XIV, with a view of providing the costly and magnificent furni- ture for Versailles and the Tuilleries, again remodeled it upon a more secure foundation, and from that period the royal manufac- tory of the " Hotel des Gobelins" dates its origin. As early as the fourteenth century, dyers of wool were settled in the Faubourg St. Marcel (Q^uartier St. Marcel) at Paris, on the banks of the Bievre, the waters of which stream were considered as favourable to the process of dyeing. One of these named Jean Gobelin amassed considerable Avealth, which his descendants in- creased, and at length renouncing the business of dyers, filled va- rious offices of state. The Gobelin family were succeeded by Messrs. Canaye, who however did not confine their attention to the dyeing of wool, but under the patronage of Henry IV, commenced the working of tapestry, which until that period had been confined to the low coun- tries. To these succeeded, in 1655, a Dutchman, named Glucq, and one Jean Lianson, a workman, and a great proficient in the * The designs were furnished by Thomas Cleyn, (a Fleming,) who was re- tained by Sir Francis for that purpose. TAPESTRY. 265 art. Louis XIV, at the suggestion of his minister, Colbert, after- wards purchased the buildings and gardens, which were still the property of the Gobelin family, from which circumstance the tap- estry made there, has ever since been known as " Gobelins tapestry." Skilful artists, weavers and dyers, were brought from Flanders, and attached to the establishment ; and in 1667 the celebrated painter, Le Brun, was appointed chief director of the Gobelin manufactory, to which he communicated that beauty and grandeur, his admirable talents were so well calculated to produce. He here painted the famous series of the battles of Alexander, which were afterwards worked in tapestry, and still remain the finest productions of the Gobe- lins. The four seasons, the four elements, and the history of the principal acts of Louis XIV, from his marriage to the conquest of Franche Comte were also from the design of this master. At the period of the French Revolution this manufacture, which had until then been prosecuted with various decrees of success, greatly declined, but under the government of Napoleon, it was again re- vived, and has since been successfully carried on, although not to the same extent as formerly. About the year 1801, seventy-six persons were employed at the Gobelins, chiefly in the preparation of tapestry, for the palace of St. Cloud ; and it was estimated that 150,000 francs were expended yearly on these productions. The pieces executed are generally historical subjects, and it occasionally reauires the labour of from two to six years to finish a single piece of tapestry. The cost of some of these pieces is enormous, but the price of the different articles is regulated less by the size than by the beauty and difiiculty of the work.* The productions of this manufactory, which is entirely supported by the government, are chiefly destined for royal palaces, or for presents made by the king ; but some few pieces, not designed as such, are allowed to be sold. Connected with the establishment of the Gobelins, is one for the dyeing of wool, under the direction of able chemists, where an in- finite number of shades, mostly unknown in trade^ are dyed for the tapestry. Wool is now exclusively used, as the colours are more permanent. There is also a drawing school, in which the principles of the art are taught, and an annual course of lectures is delivered upon chemistry as applicable to dyeing. The Gobelins tapestry was formerly made in lengths or pieces, the width of which varied from four to eight feet ; and when one * Some pieces are valued at from 50,000 to 125,000 francs. 34 266 THE ART OF WEAVING. of larger dimensions was required, several of these were sewn or fine-drawn together with such care that no seams were discernable. At the present day, however, they are manufactured of much greater widths, so that they seldom require to be joined even in the largest pieces. Two methods were formerly practised in the manufacture of ta- pestr}'^, knowm as those of the • basse lisse"' and the " haute lisse ;" in the first or low warp, which is now abandoned, the warp threads were arranged horizontally in a frame, as in looms for common weaving, the painting intended to be copied being placed beneath the warp, and the process was very remarkable, from the fact of the tapestry being worked on the wrong side, so that the artist could not see the face of the design he was weaving, until the whole piece was finished and taken out of the frame. In the top headles or high warp, which is still used, the frame is fixed perpendicularly before the artist, he also works, as it were, bUndfolded, seeing nothmg of the effect he produces, and being obhged to go to the other side of the loom whenever he wishes to examine the piece he is executing. The following brief description of the mode at pre- sent practised at the Gobehns, may perhaps convey some idea of the manufacture to those who have not visited this most interesting establishment. The frame or loom in which the tapestry is worked is of the most simple construction, consisting merely of two upright posts with suitable cross-bars at top and bottom ; between these posts two rollers or beams are placed, with ratchet lieads and clicks or dogs to hold them, suuilar to the ratchet R and dog S in Fig. 10.5. To these rollers or beams, are connected the longitudinal threads or warp, composed of twisted wool, wound principally upon the upper roller which may, therefore, be denominated the warp beam, the other, of course, being the cloth beam.* The longitudinal threads are separated from one another by suitable contrivances, made and provided for that purpose, which the reader will easily under- * It is a very remarkable coincidence, thai the tapestrj- frame should in all respects bear so close a resemblance to Ghelen's machine or loom, re- presented at Fig. A, page 18 (see Introduction) ; and it goes far to strengthen the opinion we had previously formed of the superiority of talent possessed by the ancient;? o%-er the moderns ; by tliis assertion, however, we are not to be understood as insinuating that either the French or Belgians copied Mr. Ghelen's frame, as we are credibly informed tliat they had never heard of it, but only struck upon the same idea, by chance, after much reflection upon the subject. TAPESTRY. 267 stand. The division of the threads is efFected in order to admit the cross threads, or tufts of yarn, which are to form the picture. As a sort of guide for the artist, to introduce the cross threads in their proper places, he traces an outHne of his subject on the threads of his warp in front, which are sufficiently open to enable him to see the painting behind it. For working the tapestry, three instruments are required, a broach, a comb, and an iron needle ; the first is formed of hard wood, about 7f inches in length, and f of an inch thick, ending in a point, with a small handle, round which the wool is wound, and serving the same purpose as the weaver's shuttle. The comb is also of wood, eight or nine inches long, and an inch thick at the back, whence it gradually decreases to the extremity of the teeth, which are more or less divided, according to the greater or less de- gree of fineness of the intended work: it is used to press close the wool, when any line or colour does not set well. The artist places himself behind the frame, with his back towards the picture he is about to copy ; he first turns and looks at his design, then taking a broach of the proper colour, he inserts it among the threads of the warp, which he brings across each other with his fingers, in pre- cisely the same way that weavers read their patterns on the simple or simples of the draw loom (see Fig. 70 and its explanation ;) this he repeats every time it is necessary to change his colour. Having placed the wool, he beats or pYesses it down with his comb ; and w^hen he has thus wrought several rows he passes to the other side, to see their effect, and to properly adjust them with his needle, should there be occasion.* An entire new species of tissue and tapestry has been invented or discovered by M. E. Pavy, and secured by patent, which pro- mises to become an article of great commercial value. In particu- lar, we would refer to some coverings of chairs and tapestry which have been especially ordered by her Majesty Queen Victoria, for tiie palace. It bears so close a resemblance to silk of the best kind, that it is difficult without a minute examination to discover the dif- ference. The material of which it is composed is the fibre of the banana, aloe, and other trees and plants which are plentifully * Should the workman have a lively sense of the charms of nature, with what feelings of exquisite delight must he gaze upon the form of a beautiful female, springing up in the most glowing colours amid the threads, spread like a cobweb, before his enraptured eyes, and all that too through his own instrumentality ! Tapestry weavers generally die of a broken heart ! 268 THE ART OF WEAVING. found in the West India islands ; and by very accurate experunents made by order of the French Government, they have been found on an average to exceed the strength of hemp by one-fourth. The experiments were made at Toulon, upon cordage which had been six months exposed. We understand that the French Minister of Marine has introduced ropes and cables made of this material into the Royal Navy ; and as it is so much superior to hemp, we see no reason why it might not be advautageously employed iu the cord- age of the military and commercial navy of this country. It might also be used with profit in the manufacture of pile carpets and hearth-rugs, as well as in many other important branches of the arts. CASHMERE SHAWLS. " These are the gifts of Art, and Art thrives most Where commerce has enriched the busy coast ; He catches all improvements in his flight. Spreads foreign wonders in his country's sight, Imports what others have invented well, And stirs his own to match them or excel. 'Tis thus reciprocating, each with each, Alternately the nations learn and teach." Cowper. Cashmere is a very rich and fertile province, surrounded with mountains, in the northern part of Hindostan ; its chief city is of the same name, and contains about 205,000 inhabitants : this country is famous for its shawls. Before, however, proceeding to describe the method of manufactur- ing those beautiful fabrics, we will in the first place, give a minute account of the origin and properties of the Cashmere Angora Goats, or rather of the new race, with a statement of Mr. E. Riley's views in purchasing them, as laid by him before the Society of arts, London. " Many years since a resident in New South Wales (says Mr. R.) and having in 1S25 and 1828 transported to that territory two flocks of the finest sheep procurable throughout Germany, my father had also long contemplated introducing there the celebrated Cashmere goat, anticipating that the fulfilment of his views would, in proving advantageous to himself, become also of ultimate benefit to the colony ; in which expectation, he has been encouraged from the results that have attended the importation of the Saxon breed of sheep into their favoured climates, the wools of New South Wales, CASHMERE SHAWLS. 269 and in proportion to their improvement, those also of Van Dieman's Ijsind being now eagerly purchased by the most intelligent manu- facturers in preference to those of equal prices imported from any part of Europe. " With this object in view, he subsequently, during an agricul- tural tour on the Continent, directed my attention to the Cashmere flocks of Mons. Ternaux, and in OctoberlS28, 1 met this distinguished man at his seat at St. Onen (Mons. Ternaux is a great shawl manufacturer and is also a Peer of France.) where he preserved the elite of his herds ; the animals were a mixture of various sizes and colours, from a perfect white to brown, with scarcely any stamped features as if belonging to one race exclusively ; they were covered with long coarse hair, under which so small a quantity of short soft down was concealed, that the average produce of the whole collection diJ not exceed three ounces each ; therefore, under these unfavourable circumstances, my father deferred for a time his intention of sending any of them to Australia. " I was then advised, by the Yiscomte Perrault de .Totemps, to see the stock of M. Polonceau at Versailles, he having, by a happily selected cross, succeeded in increasing the quantity and value of the qualities of the Cashmere goat beyond the most sanguine anticipa- tions ; this gentleman is " higeyiieiir en chef'' (chief engineer) to the French government, and in consequence of his enlightened taste for agricultural purstiits, was also honoured with the director- ship of the ^'ferme modele'^ (model farm) at Grignon. He became among the first to purchase a chosen selection of the original impor- tation of the cashmere goat from M. Ternaux, and sometime after seeing, at one of the estates of the Duchesse de Beri, an Angora buck with an extraordinary silkiness of hair, having more the character of long coarse but very soft down, Jie solicited permisaion to try the effects of a union with this fine animal and his own pure Cashmeres. The improvement even in the first drop was so rapid that it induced him to persevere, and when I first saw his small herd they were in the third generation from the males produced solely by the first cross ; the unwillingness however of M. Polonceau to part with any number of them at this period (the only alienation he has made from the favourite products of his solicitude being two males and two females to the King of Wirtemberg, for the sum of 3400 francs,) caused my father again to postpone his intentions until my return from the Australasian Colonies, judging that M. Polonceau w^ould then prob- ably be enabled to dispose of a sufficient number, and that the con- 270 THE ART OF WEAVING. stancy and properties of the race would by that tune be more decidedly determined. " On my arrival in England at the close of 1S31, he again re- curred to his favourite project of introducing these animals into our colonies, for which purpose I went to France with the intention of purchasing a small flock of M. Polonceau, should I find all his expectations of the Cashmere Angora breed verified, which having perfectly ascertained. I at length succeeded in persuading M. Polon- ceau to cede to me ten females in kid, and three males, and I for- tunately was able to convey the whole in health to London, with tlie intention of proceeding as speedily as possible with them to Port Jackson, looking sanguiuely forward not only to their rapid increase but also to c7'ossi)ig the connjion goats of the country with this valuable breed, in full expectation that they ma)-, exclusive of their own pure down, become thus the means of forming a desirable addition to the already much prized importations from New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land. I am led to the conclusion that the latter result may be accomplished, as M. Polonceau, who has tried the experiment with the native goat of France, has obtained animals of the second cross very httle inferior to the breed that has rendered his name so distinguished. He has also crossed the com- mon goat with the pure Cashmere, but only obtained so tardy an ameUoration, that it required eight or ten generations to produce a down simply equal to their inferior quantity and quality when com- pared to the produce of the Cashmere Angora." From the opinion generally entertained of their value, and by several eminent manufacturers, of the pecuhar qualities of their improved down, with the interest the}^ express in their intended introduction into the British Colonies, W. Riley revisited France, and ag-ain induced M. Polonceau to admit of a similar selection from his herd with also two bucks and two does of the pure Angora race from the Duchesse de Beri. ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF THE NEW RACE OF CASH- MERE OR ANGORA GOATS. M. Polonceau created the new race of Cashmere Angora goats, in 1822, by crossing the pure Cashmeres imported into France by M. Ternaux and ]M. Jaubert, (Monsieur Jaubert has been a member of the Chamber des Deputies for several years past.) under the pro- tection and patronage of the French government, in 1829, with the piu-e breed afterwards introduced into France from Angora. CASHMERE SHAWLS. 271 Since that period he has unremittingly persevered in the improve- ment so immediately effected, and has proved during the several years which have elapsed, that an entire satisfactory result in the union of the most essential qualities of down, abundance, length, fineness, lustre, and softness, was accomplished by the first cross, without any return having ensued to the individual characters of either of the primitive races, and in consequence, he has since constantly propagated the produce of that cross among themselves, careful only of preserving animals entirely white and of employing for propagation those bucks w4iich had the down in tlie greatest quantity and of the finest quality with the smallest proportion of hair. In 1826, the " Societie Royale et Centrale d' Agriculture de Paris" acquainted with the interesting result of M. Polonceau's flock, being at that time in the third generation, and considering that the down of this new race was more valuable than that of the East, and that it was the most beautiful of filaceous materials known, as it com- bines the softness of Cashmere with the lustre of silk, awarded him their large gold medal at their session, 4th April 1826, and nom- inated him a member of their society in the following year. In 1827, at the exhibition of the produce of National Industry, the jury appointed to judge the merits of the objects exposed, also awarded him their medal. At present the animals are in the twelfth generation, their health and vigour, the constancy of their qualities, and abundance of their down without any degeneration, prove that this new race may be regarded as one entirely fixed and established, requiring solely the care that is generally observed with valuable breeds ; that is to say, a judicious choice of those employed for their reproduction, and in such a climate as New South Wales it may be reasonably expected that the brilliant quahties of their down may yet be improved as has been so eminently the case with the wool of the merino and Saxon sheep imported there. M. Polonceau has goats that have yielded as many as thirty ounces of the down, in one season, and he states that the whole of his herd produce from twelve to twenty ounces ; thus showing the astonishing advantages this new breed has over the uncrossed Cash- mere, which never yield more than four ounces and seldom exceed two ounces each. This gentleman also states, that, the Cashmere Angora goats, are more robust and more easily nourished than the common goat, and that thev are less capricious and more easily managed in a 272 THE ART OF WEAVING. flock ; and from the experience he has already had, he finds them much more docile than even sheep. They prefer the leaves of trees, as do all other goats, but they thrive either on hay or straw, or green fodder, or in meadows ; they also feed with equal facility on heaths, and on the most abrupt declivities, where the sheep would perish ; they do not fear the cold, and are allowed to remain all the winter in open sheds. For the first year or two of M. P's. experiments he thought it prudent to give them aromatic herbs, from time to time, but during the last six years he has not found it necessary. He knows not of any particular disease to which they are subject, his flock never having had any. M. P. arranges they should kid in March, but occasionally he takes two falls from those of sufiicient strength during the year. The down commences to grow in September, and developes itself progressively until the end of March, when it ceases to grow and detaches itself, unless artificially removed. To collect the down, he waits the period when it begins to detach itself, and then the locks of down which separate from the skin with little force are taken ofl^ by hand ; the down is taken from the animals every three or four days ; in general it first begins to fall from the neck and shoulders, and in the following four or five days from the rest of the body ; the collection is completed in tlie space of eight or ten days. Sometimes the entire down can be taken from the animal at one shearing, and almost in an unbroken fleece, when it begins to loosen. The shearing has the advantage of pre- serving more perfectly the parallelisms of the individual filaments, which much increase the facility of combing and preparing the down for manufacture. The mills for spinning Cashmere wool have multiplied very much of late years in France, and the prices of the yarn have fallen from 25 to 30 per cent, notwithstanding their improved fineness and quality. There is a fabric made with a mixture of Cashmere down and spun silk, which is becoming very general : one of the manu- facturers, M. Hindenlang, exhibited samples of Cashmere cloth woven with yarn as fine as No. 130 for warp, and No. 228 for weft. Messrs. Polino, Brothers, of Paris, produced an assortment of Cashmere pieces from 22 to 100 francs per yard, dyed of every fancy shade : their establishment, at Ferti Bernard, employs 700 operatives with an hydrauhc wheel of 60 horse power. The Oriental Cashmere shawls are woven by processes extremely slow, and consequently costly, whence their prices are very high ; CASHMERE SHAWLS. 273 Still sold in Paris at from 3500 to 2500 francs each, and even 50,000 francs have been paid for one shawl. It became necessary, therefore, either to rest satisfied with work which should have merely a surface appearance, or contrive economical methods of weaving, to produce the real Cashmere style with much less labour. By the aid of the draw loom, and still better, the Jacquard loom, M. Ternaux first succeeded in weaving Cashmere shawls perfectly similar to the Oriental in external aspect, which became fashionable under the name of French Cashmere. But to produce shawls al- together identical on both sides, with the Eastern, was a more diffi- cult task, which was accompUshed only at a later period by M. Bauson of Paris. In both modes of manufacture, the piece is mounted by drawing the warp through the harness and ground headles, as is commonly practised for warps in the Jacquard loom. The weaving of imita- tion shawls is executed as usual by as many shuttles as there are colours in the design or pattern, and which are thrown across the warp, in the order established by the design. The greater number of these weft yarns being introduced only at intervals into the web \vhen the composition of the pattern requires it, they remain float- ing loose at the back of the piece and are cut afterwards without affecting in the least the quality of the texture, but there is a con- siderable v/aste of yarn in the weaving, which is worked up into carpets. The weaving of the imitation of real Cashmere shawls is differ- ent from the above. The yarns intended to be for the weft are not only equal in number to the colours of the pattern to be imitated, but besides this, as many little shuttles, (like those used by em- broiderers and lace manufacturers. See Figs. 135 and 136,) are filled with these yarns as there are to be colours repeated in the breadth of the piece, which renders their number considerable when the pattern is somewhat complicated and loaded with colours ; each of these small bobbins or shuttles passes through only that portion of the flower or pattern in which the colour of its yarn is to appear, and stops at the one side and the other of the cloth, alternately, exactly at its limit ; it then returns upon itself after having crossed the thread of the adjoining shuttle : from this reciprocal intertex- ture of all the yarns of the shuttles, it results, that although the weft is composed of a great many different threads they no less constitute a continuous line in the whole breadth of the web upon which the lay or batten acts in the ordinary way. We see, therefore, that the whole art of manufacturing this 35 274 THE ART OF WEAVING. Cashmere cloth consists, in avoiding the confusion of the shuttles, and in not striking up the lay till all have fulfilled their function. The labour does not exceed the strength of a woman, even though she has to direct the loom and work the treadles : seated on her bench at the end opposite to the middle of the beam, she has for aids, in weaving shawls from 45 to 52 inches wide, two girl ap- prentices, whom she directs and instructs in their tasks. About four hundred day's work are required for a Cashmere shawl of that breadth. In the Oriental process all the figures in relief are made simply Avith a slender pirn, without the shuttle used in European weaving. By the Indians, the flower and its ground are made with the pirn by means of an intertwisting which renders them, in some measure, independent of the warp. Considered in reference to their materials, the French shawls pre- sent three distinct classes, which characterize the three fabrics of Paris, Lyons, and Nimes. Paris manufactures the French Cashmere, so called, of which both the warp and the weft are the yarn of pure Cashmere down ; this web represents with fidelity, the figures and the shades of colour of the Cashmere shawl which it copies : the deception would be complete if the reverse of the piece did not show the cut ends, as in common shawl weaving. The warp of the imitation Hindoo shawl, also, woven at Paris, is composed of spun silk, which reduces its price without much impairing its beauty. Lyons, however, has made the greatest progress in the manufac- ture of shawls ; it excels particularly in the texture of its Thibet shawls, the weft of which is a mixture of wool and spun silk. Nimes is remarkable for the low price of its shawls, in which, spun silk, Thibet down, and cotton are all worked up together. It appears that M. L. Girad, at Livres, near Paris, has succeeded best in imitating Cashmere shawls, exhibiting all the variety of de- sign and colouring, which appears in the Oriental. The shawl merchants of India admire the ingenuity of the French artists in imitating Cashmere shawls, but condemn the cloth on account of its harshness, which may consist in a difference in the twisting of the yarn. In the shawl country, there are three coloured wools, white, light brown, and dark brown, the two last are from Thibet, the other from Bholkera ; the light brown will receive four colours, viz., black, blue, green and brown ; the dark brown will receive only black, brown and blue. The shawl mer- chants state, that the colours in the English shawls are fugitive. LACE MANUFACTURE. 275 The colours now used do not exceed fifty in the most elaborate pro- ductions of the Cashmere loom. Formerly it was said that three hundred shades of colour were used. The embroidery is not worked with the needle but woven in the cloth. The patterns are read off from a book, and not from a drawing. There is an embroidery language, by which the colours, number, division, and distribution and manipulations of the threads, and the forms and sizes of the flowers, foliage, &c., are symbolical- ly designated. The looseness of twist in the web is owing to being done by the hand ; these objections, however, have all lately been remedied by the ingenuity of the French artists, and particularly Messrs. Polino Brothers, of Paris. SECTION EIGHTH. LACE MANUFACTURE. The history of the arts furnishes no instance of such remarkable changes in the wages of labour, and no such instructive lessons of the influence of mechanical improvements, as that afforded by the manufacture of bobbin-net lace. For some time after its commence- ment, in Nottingham, in the year 1809, it was common for an artizan to abandon his usual occupation and betake himself to a lace frame, in which he became a share holder, and realize by work- ing upon it, from 20s. to 40s. per day. In consequence of such enormous earnings, Nottingham, with Loughborough, and the neighbouring villages, very soon became the theatre of an epidemic mania, unequalled in modern times.* Many unfortunate individuals, although destitute of mechanical genius or even talent of any kind, tormented themselves both day and night with schemes of bobbins, pushers, lockers, point-bars, and needles of every variety of shape imaginable, till their minds got permanently bewildered. Indeed, several lost entirely what little sense they once possessed ; and * For an account of the lace and net- work manufactures in ancient day a, the reader is referred to page 5, and from page 41 to 57. 276 THE ART OF WEAVING. Others after cherishing visions of the most unbounded wealth, as in the dreamy age of alchemy, finding their projects abortive, sunk into the lowest depths of despair, and committed suicide, by Mowing out their brains 7 Bobbin-net lace is a light semi-transparent texture of fine cotton thread, arranged in hexagonal meshes. This species of cloth or web is produced by means of a warp, the same as in plain weaving, except that the threads are further apart. A specimen of this tex- ture is represented at Fig. 132. Fig. 132. The weft or filling, however is applied in quite a difl^erent way from that of plain cloth: it consists, in the first place, of an equal number of threads with the warp ; and these weft threads are made to revolve round every two threads of the warp, which changes the relative positions of the warp threads. Second. — Among all the pairs of the warp-threads which have been thus twined together by weft- thread, one of them is shifted to the neighbouring warp-thread upon the left, and connected to it b)' the convolution of the weft thread ; after which, the shifted warp-threads change back to their first po- sition, where they are again entwined or laced together by the weft thread, as before ; and the other threads of these pairs shift to the right and are entwined or laced together in the same manner as the first or left hand set were. Third. — "While this maneuvering in the positions of the warp threads is in progress, the weft threads which entwine or lace them together, also move to one .side, and after the warp-threads have been laced or entwined twelve times LACE MANUFACTURE. 277 with a weft-thread, the latter moves sideways through one interval of the warp-thread, and, if it were coloured, would produce, in the course of fabricating the cloth, a diagonal line across it. The man- ufacture of lace, therefore, differs from plain weaving, in this, that the threads of the warp are not alternately raised and depressed, for the purpose of introducing the weft, but are shifted laterally to the next pair, to which they become united by the weft-threads, working likewise in pairs, each of them entwining two individual threads at once, as in the manner above explained. rie-.133 Fig. 133 will give the reader a more correct idea of the nature or mode of manufacturing this species of texture, by the crossing or twining of the warp and weft-threads together. This specimen shows, upon a magnified or enlarged scale, how the fabric is produced from the conjunction of three threads ; one of which proceeds from the top, downwards, in a winding or wave line (constituting Hogarth's line of beauty ;) the second of these threads runs towards the right, and the third to the left, crossing each other obliquely in the centre between each two meshes throughout the series, as shown in tile Fig. The warp-threads, as before stated, are placed perpen- dicularly in the machine, and derive their curvature from the ten- sion of the obliquely disposed weft-threads, by which they are alter- nately drawn to the right and to the left. The weft-threads which are to pass through the intervals of the warp, in order to interlace or entwine two threads of the latter together, are wound upon little bobbins ; one of which is represented, one fourth its real size, at Fig. 136, where both an edge and a side 278 THE ART OF WEAVING. view are given. It consists of two thin discs, cut out from sheet brass, by a press or stamping machine ; and they are so connected or riveted together, that a narrow space or circular groove is left be- tween them, as shown in the edge view, Fig. 136. A round hole is pierced in the centre of each bobbin, as shown in the Fig., having a little notch or jog at one point, for guiding the bobbin upon a spindle with a feather upon it to fit the notch or jog ; which pre- vents the bobbins from being misplaced on the spindle. Any con- venient number of these bobbins are put upon a spindle, which spindle is then arranged in a suitable winding machine, for the purpose of filling the bobbins with weft-thread, previous to being put into their respective working positions in the lace-frame. After these bobbins have been filled with weft-thread, each of them is placed within a small iron frame, like that represented at Fig. 135, and this frame is known to lace manufacturers by the name of the bobbin-carriage : Fig. 13,5 exhibits a side view and section of this frame, fourth its real size. Into the circular or gouged-out space of the carriage, the bobbin is inserted, so that the grooved border of its discs embraces the narrow edge A A ; and the bobbin is kept from falling out by the pressure spring B, which spring, also, com- municates sufficient friction to prevent it from revolving too easily, but yet allows the thread to be given off", when pulled with gentle force. The thread, as it comes from the bobbin, escapes through the eye C, at the upper side or the top of the carriage ; after which, it takes its relative position in the formation of the lace. The variety of mechanical combinations to which this manufac- ture has given birth, is without a parallel in any other branch of the arts. Since 1809, when Mr. Heathcoate obtained his first suc- cessful patent, a great number of other patents have been granted for making lace. But we shall confine ourself to giving a faithful description of the most recent improvements which have been made in the manufacture of this kind of texture, namely, by the ingen- ious John Heathcoate, of Tiverton, county of Devon, a gentleman who may with justice be called, the father of the lace manufacture in Europe ; and William Crofts, an ingenious mechanic of Rad- ford, county of Nottingham, with whose improvements w^e shall commence. Mr. Crofts' first invention consists in a mode of producing orna- mental spots on a plain bobbin-net ; which spots are formed while the lace is in progress of fabrication, by means of coiling up and accumulaiing certain of the warp threads into masses, so as to pro- LACE MANUFACTURE. 279 duce spots at such parts of the plain net as are required to form the intended pattern. The invention, is an apphcation of pecuharly jointed wires, in con- junction with hooks for catching the threads which are to be looped up, in order to form spots, with certainty and facility ; the action of the hooks, being aided by the pointed wires, enables the machinery to perform without interruption, the backward and forward swing- ing motions, which are usually given to the bobbins and carriages, in circular comb rotary machines. Fig. 134. Fig. 134 represents the operating parts of a lace machine, taken in transverse section. When the spots are about to be formed, the front working points K, are drawn towards the front of the machine out of their working positions, and remain in a state of inactivity, during the formation of the spots. The bobbins A* and B,' with their threads a,* and b,* intended to form the spots, are then selected by the pushers 3, and projected forward out of their places in the 280 THE ART OF WEAVING. back combs E, into the front combs D. The bobbins A and B, not used for forming the spots, are locked in the back combs E, daring the spotting operation, by the blade /, on the back locker bar F. There is likewise another blade 2, attatched to the collars 8, on the locker bar F, by means of which the bobbins A* and B* can be locked m the back combs E when required. The locker bar F receives motion from a lever g ; and the collars 8, receive motion from a lever 10 : both levers are worked by cams, not shown in the drawing. There is another locker bar F*, for working the carnages in the front combs D. The pointed wire bar 7 and the hook bar 13, are attached to the lever 14, by the same pin, but may receive slight shogging motions, the one independent of tlie other ; they are raised and depressed by the lever 14, which receives its motion from various other levers and cams, but unnecessary to show in the drawings, as every person at all acquainted with the lace manufac- ture, will readily be able to understand them. The pointed wires 6, and hooks 1, are represented as descending amongst the bobbin threads, which are pressed on one side by the pointed wires 6, in order that they may be caught by the hooks 1 ; and these on as- cending, loop the threads around the grooved back points G, and the additional back points 5 ; at the same time, the bobbin threads, by a suitable movement, are whipped twice round their respective warp threads. The back points G, lie below the additional back points 5, which enter into the grooves in the points G and assist in making the spots, as well as of keeping them in correct form. Their mode of application is shown in the figure ; the points G being withdrawn as soon as the spotting is effected ; leaving the points 5 in the centre of the spots in order to retain them in their places, until the points G are again inserted between the threads, beneath the spots. The bar g^ of the grooved back points G, is attached to the lever /i, by which it is worked, and the bar 11, of the additional points 5, is attached to, and worked by the lever ] 2. The front points K are connected to, and worked by the lever M. H is the fiont driving bar, and I is the back one. The bars of the front and back guides for the warp threads are marked /, t. The wire and hook bars, 13 and 7, are guided up and down in front of the warp threads by the point of a gauge screw 21, bearing against the inclined face of a fixed conducting guide 22, fastened to the top of the framing. The particular features of novelty in this part of Mr. Crofts's ma- chinery are, the points and hooks above described, for selecting and drawing up the threads ; the application of the additional back LACE MANUFACTURE. 281 points, for the purpose of keeping the spots and meshes of the net in correct form ; and also in arranging the various parts of the ad- ditional machinery, which is requisite for working spots in bobbin- net lace ; also, in combining such arranged spotting machinery, with the usual parts of rotary machinery, so that the spotting ma- chinery may be put in action to produce patterns in the lace, by the same rotary impulse which causes the plain net to be made, through the ordinary evolutions of the machinery to which the spotting ap- paratus is appended ; and also in arranging in like manner, the various parts of spotting machinery, so as to dispense with any selection of particular bobbins and carriages, and combining such arranged spotting machinery with the ordinary fluted roller machi- nery. Fig. 137. The improvements shown in Fig. 137, consist in a method of 36 282 THE ART OF "WEAVING. combining the spotting machinery with ordinary fluted roller ma- chinery. In fluted roller machinery, no selection can be made of the bobbin carriages, which are to be used in spotting : because all the carriages must go backward and forward, in complete rows ; therefore, whilst the spotting is going on, all the warp threads must remain motionless, without shogging, except those particular warp threads which are hooked up to form spots. To effect the shogging of particidar warp threads, four extra series of guides and guide bars, marked w, x, y, z. arc provided and are applied close against the ordinary guide bars f, t. in the usual manner of applying extra guide bars, for selvage threads. A racking or shogging motion is given to two of these extra guide bars at each time of spotting. In this arrangement, the pointed wires 6, must have two prongs each, to include between them the warp threads, intended to form the spot ; one of these prongs will then bend aside the warp thread included between them, so as to bear it into the hook 1. and keep it securely in the hook, whilst it is going up to the points. The warp threads which are intended to be caught or hooked up, are conducted through the eyes of the extra guides tr, r, y, :?, and are supplied from two extra warp rollers, (unnecessary to show in the drawing.) one to each pair of guides. The warp roller, which supplies the other ordinary warp threads, is shown at S, The fluted rollers R R R R, which drive the bobbin carriages, are turned by a toothed sector or fan, (in the usual way.) taking into toothed pinions, attached to their extremities. The action is so nearly the same, whether warp threads or bobbin threads are to be taken up. that further explanation is unnecessary. Mr. Crofts's third invention or improvement in lace machinery consists of an improved mode of combining together and actuating certain parts of machinery, already known, and used for making bobbin-net lace ; by means of which two thicknesses, or tissues, or webs of lace net, may be produced together, in the same machine ; that is to say, the lace net which is made in the machines, by twist- ing together the bobbin threads and warp-threads, after being formed into regular meshes by the taking-up action of the points, is wound or rolled up around the lace roller, as fast as it is made ; which lace will consist of two thicknesses, in close contact, the successive rows of meshes of both nets having been gathered up together like one net, by the said taking-up action of the points. When such lace is afterwards unrolled and removed from off the roller, it can be separated into two distinct pieces of lace net. LACE MANUFACTURE. 283 This improved mode of Mr. C's. may be carried into effect, by- parts of fluted bar or fluted roller machinery ; which is so called, because, the bobbins and carriages are moved backwards and forwards in the combs and between the warp-threads, by means of revolving- flute, I rollers, the flutes of which act between corres- ponding teeth, formed at the under side of the carriages, in the same manner as the teeth of pinions act in teeth of cog-wheels ; or it may be carried into effect, by parts of circular comb machinery, the bobbins and carriages of which are moved in the combs, by the joint action of what are called swinging driving bars, situated above the combs, and lockers, situated beneath the combs, turning on centres ; which lockers catch projecting nibs at the under sides of the carriages (see Fig. 234) and draw them out from between the warp-threads into the opposite combs to those from which they have been projected by the previous action of the driving bars. Fig. 138 represents the mode of operating by means of fluted roller machinery. The bobbin carriages A and 7, have teeth at their under parts to be acted upon by the flutes of the rollers C, D, and 1, in order to move the carriages backwards in the combs F. F, and 2. These combs have tongs, projecting from them at each end, which are cast in leads to hold the combs together, the lead at one end of each comb being adapted to be screwed against the comb bars G, H, and 3, as usual in fluted bar machinery ; but the leads 4 4 4, by which the extra tongs, at the opposite ends of the combs, are united, are for the purpose of retaining the combs steadily at their proper distances asunder. The fluted rollers C, U, and 1, which drive the bobbin carriages, are situated beneath the centres of the combs E, F, and 2, respec- tively, in the arches which are left between the tongs, and are sup- ported on pivots at their ends, in the usual manner of fluted bar machinery, each roller being steadied in the middle of its length by bearings a, b, and 5, to prevent it from bending or springing. The guides B and 6, for the warp-threads, are cast in leads, and are screwed on guide bars 1* and 8. These guides, instead of being close together, as usual in fluted bar machinery, are placed so far apart, that the middle row of combs 2, are included between the two rows of guides, in order that the carriage A or 7, may pass completely out from between one row of warp or guide threads, before the same carriage makes its entrance between the other row of warp or guide threads ; whereas, in common fluted bar machin- ery, the carriages must pass between both rows of warp threads at 284 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 138. once. The guide bars 1* and 8, are capable of shogging endways, in order to rack the warp threads, as usual in other machines. The racking is effected by a lever Z, at the bottom of the machine, actuated by a cam, by which lever the middle comb bar 3, is racked endways when required to produce the traversing of the bobbins.* * A rack of lace is a certain length of work, counted perpendicularly, and contains 240 meehee or holes. LACE MANUFACTURE. 285 The bobbins and carriages, combs and guides, are made single tier guage, instead of double tier guage, as used in common fluted bar machinery.* The middle fluted roller 1, is supported on pivots at each end, in bearino-s aflixed to the end of the middle comb bar 3, so that it will partake of the racking motion of the middle comb bar : each extremity of its fluted part is provided with what is generally called a " turn-agaiji" piece,t of the same kind as is commonly used, at one end of each of the innermost rollers, in ordinary fluted bar ma- chines, for permitting the turn-again of the carriages, that is their transfer from one row to the other, at the ends of their respective rows. Owing to the short length of the combs, and to their being con- nected by lead at each end, it would be difficult to take out car- riages from the combs when required ; therefore, to permit of drawing out the carriages, at the open ends of the combs, the two rollers C and D, are each supported in sockets 11, 11, which are fastened in the manner of short crank bar arms, to each end of the horizontal axles or spindle bars 10, 10, placed parallel to the comb bars. Each of the axles 10, are supported on pivots, so as to be capable of turning a little round, in order to let down the fluted rollers, as much as may be requisite, to disengage them from the teeth of the carriages, in order to set the same at liberty, and per- mit them to be drawn out at the outer or open ends of the combs. The pivots, at the end of the crank bars, are supported in bearing sockets, which are fastened to the ends of the comb bars ; and they may be steadied in their centres by a suitable support, fixed to the middle of the comb bar. When the fluted rollers C and D are let down, the carriages, must be prevented from sliding down by their own weights in either of the combs E or F, and entangling among the warp-threads. For this purpose the flat bars 12, 12, are slidden upwards against the inside flat surfaces of the comb bars G, and H, to which they are held by screws, passing through upright slots in the bars, and fixed into the comb bars : thus, the bars 12, 12 are enabled to be * The term ''■gauge,'" in the lace manufacture, means tlie number of gates, slils, or interstices, iii one inch of the bolt bar comb. t The Nottingham lace manufacturers give this part of the machinery the appellation of " turn-again,'" being a corruption of the phrase " timi-agavu" This ium-agam bears just about the same relation to the words turn again, that Hingland bears to England, Hir eland to Irela.nd, or Halbany to Albany. 286 THE ART OF 'WEAVING. slidden upwards on these screws, in order that their upper edges may raise the under side of the carriages and stop. The bars 12, 12, must be raised up to the carriages at the same instant that the fluted rollers are let down ; which is effected by a small elbow lever 13, poised upon a centre-pin 14. The lower arm of each elbow lever 13, has a notch or opening in its end, to receive a flange at the lower edge of the bar 12, and the upper arm of the elbow lever 13, has also a notch or opening in its end, to receive a tooth at the end of a short arm 15, which projects out from the crank bar axis 10, and acts in the manner of a short lever to raise up the flat bar 12, by moving the elbow lever 13. When the fluted rollers are raised up again, the bar 12, is withdrawn by the same movements. Rotary motion is given to the fluted rollers C, D, and I, by a sector L, taking into pinions at the end of the axle of each roller. The sector L hangs loosely upon one of the main centre-pins, and is moved backwards and forwards, with a vibrating or pendulous mo- tion by means of a link d, from the upper end of a lever behind the machine, which receives its power from a pair of cog wheels. The warp-threads for both pieces of the double net, may be supplied from one large warp roller, such as is commonly used in other lace machines, instead of the two marked K and g. The mode of operating in circular comb machinery, is sho\Yn in Fig. 139. The combs are placed in three rows, as before described, but their shape is a little different, because the lockers, which are to act beneath them, will not permit of having projecting tongs (as in Fig. 138,) at the end of each comb. The middle comb 2, has the tong in the centre of its length, and the back and front combs, have their tongs at their ends. The form of the carriages is similar to those used in circular comb machines, with two nibs or teeth, at the under side of each carriage for the blades c, a, of the locker to take hold of (see Fig. 136.) The lockers C, D, are the same as m common circular comb machinery ; and are placed beneath the front and back combs, E, and F, in a suitable position for their blades c, and a, to catch the outer teeth of the carriages which are pushed into the combs over the lockers, so as to draw out those carriages from between the warp-threads, when the blades of the lockers are turned upwards, but when they are turned downwards, their acting edges descend below the range of the nibs of the carriages and allow the nibs to pass over them. There are, likewise, two other lockers 22, and 19, LACE MANUFACTURE. 287 Vj Fig, 139. '^'^'VA^ with blades 21, 20, which assist in passing the carriages out of the centre combs ; they are raised by the upright sUding rod 23, which supports the sockets of the lockers ; y and z, are links attached to the locking lever. The driving bars L and M, are the same as are used in circular comb machinery, and act with a vibrating or pendulous motion, to push the carriages along in their combs and pass them beneath the warp-threads, but the driving bars L, M, cannot push the car- 288 THE ART OF WEAVING. liages quite through the warp-threads : therefore, as soon as the nibs of the carriages, which are foremost, get far enough over the blade of that locker, situated at the opposite side of the warp-threads, then that locker is turned up and its blade will draw those carriages quite through the warp-threads. The leading features of novelty in this part of Mr. Crofts' ma- chiner)'^ consist in combining and arranging certain parts in such a way as to have a middle row of combs, with a row of warp-threads, on each side of those middle combs, whereby one row of carriages may be passed entirely through one row of warp-threads, before the other carriages arrive at the other row of warp-threads ; and of actuating the parts of machinery, for making lace, with suitable racking movements to cause parts tx) make a double web or tissue of lace-net, in the manner herein described ; which, when taken out of the macliine, can be separated into two distinct pieces of lace- net, by cutting the turn again, traversing bobbin, by which the bor- ders or edges of the piece of double net were united together, during its fabrication. Mr. Crofts' fourth improvement in lace-making machinery con- sists in certain alterations or arrangements in the structure and mode of working that class of lace machineiy called " the levers,'"* and the circular comb machinery, for the purpose of making a par- ticular pattern of lace, having large holes in it at certain intervals, called bullet holes.t In applying this improvement to the lever machine, the parts called pushers, which are used for dividing the carriages into two ranges, together with the pusher-bars, and all their supports and ap- pendages, must be entirely removed from the landing bars ; because, in the proposed method of working, no traversing of the carriages will be required. The comb-bar wheel, with its bolt and connec- tions for racking the front comb-bar, must also be removed ; the front comb-bar being kept stationary by its gauge screws. If the machine has been used for making narrow breadths of lace, the turn-agaui combs and bar are removed, and the back combs cast anew. If it has been used for making only plain net, without bullet holes, the selvage guides are removed from their bars, and their racking wheels also. The rachet wheel, on the axles of the racking wheels, wliich has * The machine here referred to (the lever machine) was invented by Mr. John Leavers, of New Radford, in tlie year ISll. t See " Egyptian Shebetz," page 40 of Introduction. LACE MANUFACTURE. 289 eight teeth, must be changed for a new one, with only six teeth ; and the guide-bar racking wheel must be removed, and a new one cut, ha\'ing three steps or elevations on its circumference. The catch-bar wheels, for lifting and letting fall the catch bars, are re- moved ; and others, with three deep notches, are substituted, their ratchet wheels having six teeth. The number of points are to be Fig. 140. 290 THE ART OF WEAVING. doubled ; that is, in what is called a ten point machine, twenty points are placed in every inch. The pump apparatus or lever, for lifting and letting fall the catch bar when either of the point bars come down and go up again, must be disconnected from both point bars. Fig. 140 represents a sectional elevation, taken transversely through the machine, for the purpose of showing the forms and positions of the working parts. The ratchet wheel a, which usually has eight teeth, must be changed for one of six teeth as in the figure. — This ratchet drives the notched wheel c?, which gov- erns the half way or dividing stop. This stop must be adjusted, so as to catch and detain the back landing bar t, when the two land- ing bars t, 21, are quite down, or closed together, instead of detain- ing them at a little distance apart, as in the ordinary positions, for the divided carriages to be caught by the catch bars, in common lever machines. The large guide-bar racking wheel, must also have thirty -six teeth, and the large racking wheels, for the extra guide-bars, for bullet holing also have thirty- six teeth ; none of which parts are shown in the figure, being already well known and in connuon use. The threads, to form the bullet holes, are provided with the extra guides 7/1, 11, o, J), which are attached to the usual guide-bar, and each receives a separate racking motion, the bullet holes being formed by the ordinary method. A magnified portion of the lace ornamented with bullet holes, is shown at Fig. 141. Fig. 111. The ratchet wheel a, affixed to the notched wheel d, is turned LACE MANUFACTURE. 291 by the driver 6, and in place of driving-bars and lockers, two catch bars r r, are appUed, their ratchet wheel s, being turned by the driver, d.* The selvages of the net are formed by strong warp threads, stretched tight, provided by a roller, distinct from the warp roller. In applying these improvements to circular comb machinery, the front comb bar is kept stationary, and its racking wheel is removed. The points are also doubled in this machine, being changed from ten points to twenty points per inch. The racking wheels are changed for new ones, — one having eight different projections, and the other five, which are turned by a ratchet wheel of twelve teeth. We are informed by Mr, Crofts that this kind of lace-net (see Fig. 141) will be of a nmch more simple texture than ordinary bobbin-net, being without traversing threads, and therefore can be made more expeditiously. Having given the reader a faithful description (a practical one) of Mr. Crofts' improvements in lace machines in general, and illustrated the same by suitable engravings, etc. we pass on to describe a few improvements of quite a different character, made by our ingenious and worthy friend, John Heathcoate Esq., of Tiverton. The first of these inventions consists in a new mode of manufacturing bobbin net-lace, by inserting sewing thread between the breadths of lace, during the fabrication and finishing of it. In this improved mode, the lacing thread passes in front of the warp-thread that forms the selvage, and behind the two bobbin threads which compose the meshes of the lace, and then re- passes in front of the warp-thread to the adjoining breadth, on which it acts in a similar manner. Another part of the improved mode, consists in ornamenting the lace, by passing the lacing thread round the two bobbin threads, composing the top of the meshes. Fig. 142 represents, in section, the principal working parts of this machine, rf, d, are the points; /,/, the lockers; ^, ^, the driving bars ; c, c, the combs ; e, the lace roller ; a, the warp roller ; h, b, are the ordinary guide bars, with their guides. The selvage threads are supplied froiu the roller A, one row of threads passing through the ordinary guides on the common guide bar /t, and the other row through the guide 6, which is at- tached to the guide bar h. The ordinary warp-threads proceed from the roller a, through the guides on the guide-bar b. The bar E, is called the "poppet bar,'' and has a vertical movement, for the purpose of stopping the turn-again carriages, by means of suit- able catches on its upper end. The parts by which these improve- 292 THE ART OF WEAVING. Fig. 142. ments are effected are the guide D, and the lacing thread roller C. The guide D has a separate racking movement from the other guides. The improvement in this part of Mr. H's invention con- sists in the mode of inserting the lacing thread, by passing it across the warp-threads and behind the bobbin threads : and likewise the mode of ornamenting the lace, by passing the lacing threads round the bobbin threads, whicli compose the top of the meshes. The second part of this gentleman's improvements, in lace ma- chinery &c., wliich we shall now endeavour to explain, consists in a method of manufacturing ornamental work or figures composed LACE MANUFACTURE. 29a of edgings, neiges, tattings, or narrow stripes, of gauze or of any- other suitable fabric, so as to assume new forms and shapes, by- being put upon pins, arranged to receivethe same, in curves, angles, circles, or other figures. The indentation required for producing one pattern, and the form which is given to the edgings in that particular design, by putting them on pins, as shown at Fig. 144, will sufficiently illustrate the nature of the invention ; and it will be evident, that by varying the forms of arrangement of the pins, with corresponding or suit- table indentations or spaces in the edgings, varieties of figures or patterns may be produced. The third part of Mr. H's inventions consists in certain machinery, tools, implements, or apparatus, to be used in applying such orna- ments, ornamental work or figures. X Fig. 143. B of Fig. 143 represents a side view or elevation of the machme, composed of the large cylinder A, and the small cylinder B, and their accessories, mounted upon a frame C. The rim of the large 294 THE ART OF WEAVING. cylinder is pierced with holes, to receive the pins a, a, (see Fig. 145 and 146 ;) which holes are made in curves, or other figures, ac- cording to the pattern or design intended to be produced, as will be seen more clearly in the plan. Fig. 144. Tliese pins are sustained by a curved plate D. (see Fig. 143 and 145.) supported from the axis of the cylinder A. within or underneath the upper portion of the cyhuder rim A : which plate is so shaped and kept stationary by the brace e, as to aUow the pins to be pressed back within the perforated cylinder A. as they are successively brought in contact with the small cylinder B ; by which means the borders, sprigs, or other figures, are liberated from the pins. As the cylinder A re- volves, the pins a. a. descend by their own weight, whereby the points again project from the cylinder A, and are kept by the curved plate D. in that position, as they move in succession towards the upper part of the circle, as wlQ be best seen detached at Fig. 145. Upon these pins, the edgings or other texture, (which may be conveniently supplied from the bobbins 1 1.) is put, and the re- volving of the cylinder A, carries it forward towards the cylinder B, which, on its part, draws oflT the lace-net, or other fabric, from the roller H. and bears it on the upper part of its surface towards the cylinder A. The surfaces of these two cylinders, A and B. being moved simultaneously and equally, (by means of the wheels, upon their respective axis, working into each other.) the net and the edging or border are brought together, and pressed closely between them : over the small cylinder B, the sizing roller E (see Fig. 143) is made to press upon the net, the surface of the roller being formed accord- ing to the figure which the edging assumes upon the cylinder A. (See a sample of edging on the cylinder A, at Fig. 144.) The cement is applied to the net only where the edging wUl come upon it when the pressure, just alluded to, causes the edging to ad- here to the sized net. The roller E. is supplied with size or cement by a small roller F (see Fig. 144) the under surface of which dips into the trough containing the same (as in sizing warps for power looms ; and as the rollers E and F, by the wheels upon their res- pective axis are connected, and in due proportion with the cylinders A, and B, a proper supply of size is in succession applied to those parts of the net, or other fabric, intended to receive the ornamented border or pattern. The surface of the roller E. must, of course, be covered with woollen cloth, or other suitable elastic substance, which will yield to LACE MANUFACTURE. 295 any inequality of the material passing under it. G, is a cylinder to receive the lace ; it is moved by a band or belt L, passing over the cylinder B, which it causes to draw the lace therefrom, and to overcome any tendency which it may have to adhere to the cylin- der B. But to prevent the lace from being stretched or elongated, and also the better to separate it from the cylinder B, a number of silk threads Q, are passed over the cylinder B, as shown at Figs. 143 and 144. These threads effectually strip the net or lace from the cylinder, and continue in contact with it until the whole opera- tion is completed, and are not separated from it until the lace is taken from the cylinder G. Wet spunges 6, 6, (see Fig. 143) are made to press against the left hand side of each of the cylinders A, and B, to take oft' any size which may adhere to them. Motion is given to the cylinder B, (which by the train of wheels and the band or belt L, communicates it to the other cylinders and the roller.) by a treadle M, acting upon the ratchet-wheel, fixed upon its axis N, or by any other suitable contrivance, e, e, is a spring governed by a set screw (see Fig. 143) which, by its action against the bear- ing of the cylinder A, regulates the pressure upon the net and bor- der between the two cylinders A and B. The trough which contains the size or cement, is regulated, so as to allow a proper quantity to adhere to the surface of the roller F, the excess being retained by the contact or pressure of the side of the trough against it ; which, of course, is well understood. The net or other fabric, destined, to receive the border, is to be passed alternately under and over the wires d, in order to keep it flat and moderately tight. Tension cords O, and weights P, are Ukewise applied to the bobbin K, and cylinder G, so as to give the required tension to the silk threads Q. (see Figs. 143 and 144) and finished work. For the purpose of better exhibiting the several parts of the ap- paratus, we have left out the work altogether in the plan, Fig. 144. It may be useful to add, that the wet spunges 6,6, may be advan- tageously applied to the surfaces of the cylinders A, and B, by the pressure of levers and springs. By the terra edgings, is meant, any suitable stripes of woven or manufactured texture, proper for being formed into figures or pat- terns ; and the term borders, is meant to designate such edgings, formed into designs and attached to net, muslin, or other suitable texture. We have, for the sake of more clearly describing this pro- 296 THE ART OF WEAVING. cess or manufacture, sho\\'Ti an uninterrupted succession of pattern or design, or borders ; but, it is evident, that if alternate intervals or spaces were left between portions of pattern, detached oljjects of the nature of sprigs, groups, or boquets, may be produced, according to the taste of the designer, and the consequent arrangement of the pins a, a, and the roller E, by which the gum or size is applied to the net. If the object be to produce imitation of Brussels lace, or Honi- to7i sprigs, the edging must be made of such forms and materials as will, when formed and pressed into the proper shapes, most nearly resemble the work made by the hand with the bobbins or needles ; and the method of sewing them to the net, which is prac- tised with regard to the Brussels and Honiton sprigs may be adopt- ed ; and also in imitation of Chantilly and other blonde laces, in case it should be deemed necessary. The pins a, a, (one of which is shown enlarged, at Fig. 146) are suitable where the edgings have holes or open places, by which it can be readily put upon them ; but in case the edging is of a close texture, the pins must be smaller. The size or cement may be made of various kinds of gum, or other adhesive matters. Gum- arabic, dissolved in water, and of the consistence of thick cream will answer the purpose very well. We shall now conclude this part of our subject, by laying before our readers a copy of a letter, containing an account of the speci- men of ancient Egyptian lace or net, to which we alluded in the in- troductory part of this Work. (See pages 46 and 47.) A representation of this specimen is given at Fig. 147 ; which we think demonstrates, beyond the possibility of a doubt, that the lace machinery used by the ancient Egyptians, must have been brought to great perfection indeed, before such a fabric could have been produced. But the following letter, from Mr. Kersivenus, will convey a better idea of the subject than anything we can say. Thehes, October 17th, 1843. Dear Friend, Your favour of the 19th May last, was handed to me last even- ing, by our worthy friend Amasis Osirtasen, who arrived here yesterday morning, on business of importance for his Majesty. With regard to what you say about the sample of lace or net, it is lucky indeed, that your letter reached me in this place ; be- cause I am thus enabled to furnish you with a drawing of it, and LACE manufacturl:. Fig. 147. 297 also some explanation, more easily than I could otherwise have done. On receipt of your letter, I lost no time in calling upon our esteemed acquaintance, Lepsius,, who very fortunately happens to be here at present ; and after mentioning to this scientific gentle- man tlie object of your letter, he at once consented to aid me in searching for the sample, as he says, that he feels interested in your success, and has done so, ever since he first saw you in Berlin, while you were there in 1S33, obtaining a patent from the Prussian Government, for a carpet power loom, with wdiat the Doctor calls, " lunar detached revolving shuttle boxes.''^ We proceeded this morning, a few minutes before sunrise, at which time we commenced our search ; and we continued it with- out intermission until 10^ o'clock A, M. ; at which time we had given up nearly all hopes of success ; and, in fact, were just at the point of leaving tlie scene of investigation, when fortunately the Doctor's eve (which you know is always on the sharp look-out) 3S 298 THE ART OF WEAVING. caught a glimpse, while looking over my shoulder, of the very identical object of which we were in search. You may guess how overjoyed the Dr. and I became on making this re-discovery,* not only for your sake and for that of your country, but also for the interest of science, which you are aware is always a favourite hobby with the Doctor. We proceeded forthwith to make the necessary drawing ; and, although the sample has become much obhterated from age, yet, with the help of the Dr's. excellent triple lenses (which you know possess most awful powers of penetration) I have been enabled to make a tolerably correct outline, and, in fact, as a whole, not a bad drawing. You will not fail to perceive, that the part of the sample marked A A in the figure, differs very materially from tliat shown at B B ; and although this feature appeared to me, at first sight, as quite a simple circumstance, our learned friend, who is deeply skilled in the mysterious art of weaving, is of opinion that no machinery at pre- sent used in the lace manufacture is at all capable of producing the same effect : he, therefore, concludes, that some very ingenious piece of mechanism, unknown to moderns, must have been em- ployed in the manufacture of this specimen. It will be seen, on close examination, that the same threads which form the weft in the part A A. constitute the warp at B B : this actually puzzles the Doctor, and is, no doubt, worthy of your attention as a practical weaver and manufacturer. Lepsius tells me, that each thread of the net, altliough fine of itself, was composed of 598t other threads, all distinct ; the quality of the fabric being similar to that of the corslet dedicated to Minerva, at Lindus, by Amasis, King of Egypt. This explanation, he was enabled to decipher, by the aid of one of his best glasses, from a few obliterated characters : which, on the closest examination with the naked eye, I was unable to perceive ! The Doctor entertains strong hopes of becoming, in the course * It appears that Mr. Kersivenus saw this specimen while at Thebes, in ihe month of March 1835, and of which circumstance he at that time made men- tion to us in a letter ; but being hurriedly called away, on business of impor- tance, he lost all recollection of the occurrence. t Sir Gardiner Wilkinson, in his interesting work, entitled, " Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians," gives us an account of a corslet, oflinen, ornamented with numerous figures of animals, worked in gold and cotton. Each thread of the corslet was worthy of admiration ; for though very fine, every one was composed of 360 other threads, all perfectly distinct. See vol. Ill, page 127. LACE MANUFACTURE. 299 of a short time, possessed of the machinery by which nets of the kind here represented were manufactured ; and, judging from the rate at which excavations are progressing, at present, in this neighbourhood, I, myself have httle doubt that his most san- guine expectations will be reaUzed. No farther back than yesterday, about 5^ o'clock P. M., some of his workmen dug up an electrical machine, bearing the name of that ingenious but ancient indivi- dual, Tubal-cain ; and this instrument according to the Doctor's statement, is the only thing of the kind preserved from the wreck of the anti-diluvian world, Shem, (the first son of Noah,) having taken it with him into the Ark ! Lepsius employs, in these excavating operations, a kind of peo- ple called " Irishmen,^' and from what I can learn regarding them, they are famous for making headway in this kind of work : each one, of whom, I am sure, is at least worth eleven of my own coun- trymen.* And now. Dear Friend, while owls by night, with mournful scream, rouse echo from her idiot dream, may I your humble ser- vant be, ALEXIS KERSIVENUS, Civil Engineer, Homeopathic Physician, &c. P. S. My family are all well. Cleopatra sends you her love, and three * # * # * i EMBROIDERY. " Here the needle plies its busy task, The pattern grows ; the well-depicted flower, Wrought patiently into the snowy lawn, Unfolds its blossom ; buds, and leaves, and sprigs, And curling tendrils, gracefully dispos'd, Follow the nimble finger of the fair : A wreath, that cannot fade, of flowers that blow With most success when all besides decay." — Cowper. Embroidery is the art of adding to the surface of woven tex- tures, a representation of any object we wish to depict, through the medium of the needle, threaded with the material in which the * It may be well to state that Mr. Kersivenus is an Egyptian by birth ; but received his professional instruction in France ; where we first had the plezt- 6ure of forming an acquaintanceship with him. 300 THE ART OF WEAVING. work is to be executed. This may be effected by various methods, and on most descriptions of fabrics. Our object at present is, not to enter into a general description of the diflerent articles used by ladies for the purposes of needle-work, nor the methods of applying them. Indeed, the fair sex cannot expect from us any practical information upon such subjects as, ferti-stitch, finny-stitch, old-stitch, neic-stitch, chain-stitch, braid- stitch, queen-stitch, Spanish-stitch, rosemary-stitch, uhip-stitch, back-stitch, side-stitch, Galway-stitch, Kilkenny-stitcli, Limerick- stitch, and Tijjperary-stitcJi, we shall therefore, confine ourself to giving our readers a brief historical account of the art ; and a description of the application of machiner}^ to it, as successfully accomplished by the ingenious M. Josue Heilmann, of Mulhausen, France.* We are indebted to the luxury and magnificence of the nations of the East, for the invention of embroidery, — an art that has not inaptly been termed the mother of painting, its discovery claiming the priority by many centuries. In more modern times, it has been called the humble sister of the latter art ; and the aim of the needlewoman has been to imitate, as closely as possible, the pro- ductions of the pencil, a labour in which she has been assisted by some of the most celebrated masters, many of whose chef-d'oeuvres have been executed for the express purpose of being copied in nee- dlework or tapestry. The Greeks gave the honour of the invention of embroidery to Minerva : by Pliny it has been assigned to the Phrygians : hence he says the Romans called embroiderers '■' PhrygionesT and em- broidered garments, ^^ vestes Phiygionice^ The women of Sidon, before the Trojan war, were especially celebrated for their skill in this art: and Homer mentions Helen as being engaged in embroi- dering the combats of the Greeks and Trojans : '• An ample web magnificent she wove, Inwrought with num'rous conflicts for her sake, Beneath the hand of Mars endured by Greeks." Andromache also — " She in her chamber at the palace top, A splendid texture -wrought, on either side All dazzling bright with flowers of various hues." * Those of our readers who wish to obtain a knowledge of this art, as practised by ladies, are referred to Miss Lambert's excellent " Hand-Book of Needlework." EMBROIDERY. 301 The art of embroidery was greatly practised among the ancient Egyptians ; even the sails of some of their ships were wrought with fanciful devices, representing the phenix, flowers, and various em- blems.* In the time of Moses, Aholiab, the son of Ahisamach, of the tribe of Dan, was celebrated as '•' a cunning workman," and as an embroiderer in blue, in purple, in scarlet, and in fine linen. t The curtains and ornaments of the Tabernacle, and the vestments of the priests, were decorated with embroidery. The prophet Eze- kiel, reproaching the women of Israel with having abused the bene- fits of Providence, after mentioning their bracelets and ciiains, jewels for their foreheads, and earrings, and their crowns, still far- ther names their robes, dyed and embroidered of divers colours.t Attains, king of Pergamus, is said by Pliny, to have invented the art of embroidery with gold thread. According to Diodorus Siculus,§ Zaleucus, a disciple of Pytha- goras, and a lawgiver of the Locrians, forbade the use of embroi- dery, except to courtesans : and Dionysius Halicarnassusll informs us, that Tarquinius Priscus, who first distinguished the monarch and senators by particular robes and ornaments, was the first Roman king who wore an embroidered garment. The term embroidery, as employed in the writings of the ancient historians, has reference to all kinds of ornamental work done with the needle ; thus comprehending within its meaning every descrip- tion of decorative needlework, including tapestry and some descrip- tions of weaving. At the present day, the term is much more hm- ited. relating to one kind of needlework only, which, however, em- braces an almost innumerable variety, both as to the materials employed, and the mode of using them. In the extended meaning of the term, therefore, nations and savage tribes unknown to the ancients, may equally claim the honour of a similar invention, as most of them have a species of embroidery peculiarly their own.l^ * Cloth, of embroidered linen, appears to have been made in Egypt ex- pressly for sails, and was bought by the Tyrians for that purpose (Ezekiel xxvii. 7,) but its use was confined to the pleasure boats of the nobles, or of the king himself; ordinary sails being white. We are informed by Pliny (lib. XXX. c. 1.) that the ship in which Antony and Cleopatra went to the bat- tle of Actium was distinguished from the rest of the fleet by its purple sails, which were the peculiar privilege of the Admiral's vessel. t Exod. XXV. 35. t Exekiel xvi. 13. ^i Lib. iii. c. G2. || Lib. xii. p. 299. IF The word embroidery is derived from the French broderie which some deduce by transposition from bordeur, because they formerly only embroidered the borders of their stuffs, whence the Latins sometimes called embroiderers 302 THE ART OP WEAVING. The Chinese have long been celebrated for the beauty of their embroideries ; indeed, it has been doubted whether the art was not originally brought into Europe from them, through the Persians. They use floss and twisted silks, also the bark of a tree spun into a fine thread.* The drawing of their embroideries is sometimes as uncouth as that of their paintings, but in that of some of their flowers (doubtless copied from nature) they are frequently even botanically correct ; and their works are not more to be admired for their remarkable freshness than for the extreme labour bestowed upon them. Success, as gained by patient application, is nowhere so frequently exemplified as in China. The mere accomphshment of writing a good style, is the result only of many tedious years of study and self-denial. The beauty of the written character, the finished graces of their composition the excellence of their silk manufactures and embroidery, the wonders of their porcelain, and many other marvels in art and knowledge, are the natural results of untiring industry and perseverance. A Chinese uses no short cuts, resorts to no compendious methods for abridging labour : — he is not without ingenious resources to accomphsh an end, but his aim does not seem to be to save time. We are indebted to Mr. Tradescant Lay for the following inter- esting account of the art of embroidery as at present practised by the Chinese. " For twenty-two cash or tseen," he says, " I pur- chased an elegant book, filled with choice subjects of the graphic art, as patterns for the use of the young needlewoman. She is as- sumed to be poor, and hence the little manual is priced at about one penny of our money. It has a cover of a fair yellow, studded with spangles of gold, and contains between two and tliree hundred fig- ures, culled from the varied stores of nature and art. In fact, the objects are so well selected and so numerous, that they might serve as illustrations to a small encyclopedia. One acquainted with Chinese literature and natural history, might deliver several lectures with this book before him. The meadow, the grove, the brook, the antiquary's museum, and the pages of mythology with the adorn- ments of the house and garden, are all laid under contribution. liwJbularii. According to Du Cange, they anciently wrote aurobrustus, for embroidered with gold, or brustiis brodatus, whence the French word bro- derie. * The fine niusHns made at Manilla. Avith threads spun from the pine-apple plant, and afterwards so richly and delicately embroidered with the same ma- .terial, are well known. EMBROIDERY. 303 The book is said to be for the use of the person who belongs to the green window, which is an epithet for the dwelling of a poor wo- man : while the red gallery denotes the residence of a rich female. The industrious poor plies her task near the green lattice, which is made of earthenware, and lets in both the light and the breath of heaven ; while the rich dame leans upon the verniil-tinted balus- ters of the gaudy verandah, and gazes carelessly at the sunbeams as they sparkle among the flowers or woos the soft breeze which agitates the green roof of the Indian fig-tree. The title-page presents us with a venerable man, in the weeds of office, holding iahis hand a scroll with this motto, 'Heaven's magistrate confers wealth.' Over his head are bats disporting among the clouds ; the emblems, I suppose, of wakefulness, for these animals are on the alert, while men sleep. ' Her candle goeth not out by night,' is what Solomon tells us of the needle woman, whom he eulogizes in the last chapter of Proverbs. I once saw two girls at this work in the village of Mongha. They were seated upon a low stool, and extended their legs across another of twice the height of their seat. In this way a support was provided for the frame on which the piece to be embroidered was spread forth. Their faces wore a sickly hue, which was owing, perhaps, to close confinement and the un- natural position in which they were obliged to sit. The finest specimens of embroidery are, as far as my observation goes, done by men, who stand while at work — a practice which these damsels could not imitate, as their' feet were small. They were poor, but too genteel, in their parents' idea, to do the drudgery of the humble housewife, and so their feet were bandaged and kept from growing beyond the limits of gentility. Their looks were not likely soon to attract a lover, and hence they were compelled to tease the sampler from the glistening dawn till the dewy eve. Much skill and labour are bestowed on the embroidery of a plaited skirt ^vorn by ladies, which, with my partiality for what is Chinese, I think without a rival for beauty as an article of female attire. In the little work before me, several patterns are given expressly for this purpose. A curious purse worn in the girdle of Chinese gentlemen, is also the subject of much of this kind of elaboration. Embroidery and figured textures were generally in favour with the ancients, so that the discovery was thought worthy of a superior agency. In the Old Testament we have two kinds, the maase rokem, (opus phry- gionic7im,) in which the figures were inserted by the needle ; and the maase choseb, (opus plimiarium,) in which they were wrought in the weft. The Chinese are fond of retainins: what is 304 THE ART OF WEAVING. old, and have preserved both these arts in their highest state of per- fection." The beautiful embroideries on muslin, with cotton, by the Indian and Candian women, are well known. The embroidery practised by the latter is curious enough : they work with their own hair, as well as that of animals, with which they make splendid repre- sentations of flowers, foliage, &c. : they also insert the skins of eels, sea serpents, banshees, mermaids, and other outlandish kinds of fish. According to M. de Busson, the negresses of Senegal, before their marriage, embroider the skins of various beasts, representing figures, flowers, and animals, in every variety of colour ; and the pictures thus formed, they present as trophies of their skill to their husbands, on the morning (before sunrise) of the ninth day after marriage : this curious custom appears to be almost universal among the loioer orders, but it is not so prevalent in the refined circles. The Georgians and particularly the Turkish women, are renowned for their embroideries on tlie lightest and most delicate materials, such as crape and gauze, which they ornament with gold thread in a manner unequalled. Their embroideries on morocco leather have long been esteemed, on which they work the smallest objects in gold passing, without fraying the thread, in a way we cannot imitate. According to M. Savary, they formerly often ornamented their embroidery with pieces of money, the value of which they did not appear to understand ; a circumstance, however, which the Genoese merchants, who had a considerable trade in the Levant, turned greatly to their advantage, as valuable and interesting coins and medals were frequently found in the old garments in which they sometimes trafficked. Besides the Tinks, the Greek women of the present day, and the inhabitants of the islands of the Levant, are still celebrated for their embroidery, principally of gold and silver. The women of Therapia on the Bosphorus excel in a most beautiful description of work ; it can scarcely, however, be termed embroidery, being rather a species of exquisitely fine netting. They represent flowers in relief, every petal of which is worked with the utmost exactness. These extraordinary productions of the needle, unfortunately but little known in this country, cannot be suflficiently admired for their extreme delicacy and elaborate- ness. In the last and preceding centuries, when embroidery, as an ar- ticle of dress both for men and women, was an object of consider- able importance, the Germans, but more particularly those of Vienna, EMBROIDERY. 305 disputed the palm of excellence with the Frencli. At the same period, Milan and Venice were also celebrated for their embroidery ; but the prices were so extravagantly high, that according to Laniarre, its use was forbidden by sumptuary laws. The art of embroidery seems to have attained a higher degree of perfection in France, than in any other country ;— it is not, however, so much practised at the present day. Embroiderers for- merly composed a great portion of the working population of the largest towns ; laws were specially framed for their protection, some of which would astonish the work-people of the present day. They were formed into a company as early as 1272, by Etienne Boileau, Prevot de Paris, under their respective names of " Brodeurs, Decou- peurs, Egratigneurs, Chasubiters ;"— their last statutes were framed in 1719. In Saxony, embroidery on fine mushn and cambric has been carried to great perfection. In the neighbourhood of Ebenstock, and the Erzgebirge, much tambour work is done ; this is general- ly sold at the Leipzig fairs, where it is bought by the Russian and West Indian merchants ; great quantities are also exported to Per- sia, At Plauen, in the same neighbourhood (celebrated for its manufactures i» hnen, cotton, and mushn,) much figured lace is also worked, which may be met with at the shops in Dresden. The embroideries of Nancy and Paris of this description, have of late years attamed great excellence, and are much sought after. Embroidery, on an extensive scale, is often effected in the Jacquard and draw looms. In such cases, front heacUes are employed ; and two beats or strokes of the reed are given to each thread of weft thrown across the web. When there are several colours in one line of the pattern, (as in Fig. 70,) there must be one card or lash to each, to enable the weaver or weavers to embroider them, one colour after another ; which he does before giving the two ground beats or strokes of the reed. Embroidered fabrics for covering fur- niture, are always worked with front headles, for the purpose of binding the embroidery, and the threads of warp which pass through these headles are sometimes taken from the ground warp, and sometimes from an extra warp, accordingly as it happens that the embroidering shades are the same as those of the ground warp, or different from them. Small shuttles or pirns (sometimes called circ/e5f)are used ; a correct representation of one of which is given at Fig. 136. The ground headles are worked for the ground strokes, and the binding headles only are used for embroidering. In most 39 306 THE ART OF WEAVING. instances the weaver works the ground headles with his right foot, (as in damask weaving,) and the binding headles with his left. When the pattern requires a great variety of sliades of colour, the workman places the design paper before him, (as in Gobelins tapestry weaving,) so as to see distinctly how to insert them. When there is any gilding of gold or silver used in embroidering, (which is often the case,) the cloth must be carefully rolled in paper, as fast as woven, to prevent the gilding from injuring the cloth : this is effected by putting clean paper between the cloth and the roller on which it is wound. Each colour in the pattern requires a shuttle for each repeat in the breadth of the web, so that the whole number of shuttles employed is often very considerable. The embroidering shuttle or pirn is generally about ] g^ inches in diameter, and M,ths of an inch thick, with a hole in its centre, (as in Fig. 136,) for tlie carriage pin on which it revolves, as fast as the thread is wanted : its inside is hollowed out to about f ths of its whole diameter to re- ceive the warp.* It would have been supposed, that embroidery could never have been worked with profit by machinery ; yet, such is the case. But a few years since, M. Josue Heilmann, of Mulhausen, France, invented a machine by which a female, with the assistance of two children, could turn off daily as much work as 20 expert hand embroiderers, employed upon the common frame. An account of this remarkable invention will, therefore, be interesting to many of our readers. Mr. H. exhibited his embroidering machine in Paris, at the " Na- tional Exposition of the Products of Industry," for 1834 ; and of all the specimens of ingenuity there displayed, it was, without doubt, that which attracted most attention, for whether at rest or in motion, it was always surrounded by a crowd of curious persons ; some directing their attention to the embroideries which it had exe- cuted, and others trying to follow its motions and to divine its me- chanism. Indeed, it was interesting to see, in a small compass, 130 embroidering needles, each busied in copying the pattern, and ac- complishing its task with perfect regularity ; one person only being required to put all these needles into action. The spectator was especially struck with admiration, in seeing the precision with which each of the needles came of itself to prick the stuff in the very place where the most expert hand would have done it ! Mr. Heilmann has, in the construction of this machine, over- come, in a mechanical point of view, difficulties of an almost in- "* In some inslancee, the common shawl shuttle is used instead of the circle. EMBROIDERY. 307 surmountable character ; and he well merits the compliments which he has received. It is not necessary that we should enlarge upon the national ad- vantages which must result from this invention, because, they will appear obvious to every reflecting mind. We would remark, how- ever, that it is calculated to supply us with beautiful embroideries, for home consumption, at least, and render us independent of for- eigners in this delightful branch of industry, saving miUions of dollars annually to the country. Mulhausen, Augvst 5th. 1843. Dear friend. Your favour of the 29th June last has just reached me, enlosing a Copy of " lire's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines ;" in which publication, at page 437 of vol. 1, a catch-penny descrip- tion of my Embroidering Machine is given : but as all the move- ments and mechanical arrangements contained in plate 2, of your drawings, with many essential parts of plate 1, are omitted, 1 have come to the conclusion that the Doctor's description is not in- tended to benefit the manufacturer or mechanician, in a practical point of view, but only for the amusement of children. I am glad to hear that you have embarked in the publication of a treatise on the art of weaving, which will include all its various branches. Such a work, I am persuaded, will prove of immense benefit, not only to individual manufacturers and weavers, but also to your own country and the world at large ; for in this age of charlatanism, when effrontery usurps the place of genius, a real practical work like that you name, will be quite a god-send ; and you have my best wishes, with those of your friends here, in the undertaking. " Facts truly stated are the best applauses, or the most lastmg re- proaches." I have not made any improvement on the Embroidering Machine for some time past ; nor has there been any material alteration made in its principles, so far as I am aware, either here or in England, since its first introduction. The patents obtained in France and England, have expired but a short time since, so that this invention, which has really procured me many comphments (among which is the decoration of the " Le- gion d^ Honneuf^) is at present pubUc property. 308 THE ART OF WEAVING. During the course of last j^ear. I several times visited the factory of Mr. Louis Schwabe, of Manchester, containing 15 of my Em- broidering Machines. This manufacturer has received compliments at least sufficient to drive a man crazy, (Ce manvfachirier a re- cuilli des compliments, a faire toiirner la tete,) from a multitude of persons, who were in Manchester last j'ear, at the meeting of the British Association.* Although this invention has filled the mechanical world with wonder, I do not think that it has turned much to the pecuniary advantage of those who have hitherto adopted the use of it ; but my opinion is, that it will be more serviceable when within the reach of every one. When your work on the " manufacture of textile fabrics" is ready, you would do well to send a copy of it to our Societe In- dustrielle here. It would certainly be received with much favour ; and, perhaps, might prove greatly to your advantage. Je vous presente mes salutations cordial JOSUE HEILMANN, Membre de la Legion d' Honneur. MONS. C. G. GILROY, a New York, Etats Unis d' Amerique. The price of a machine containing 130 needles, and of course, 260 pincers or fingers to lay hold of them, is 5000 francs (nearly 1000 dollars.) Each machine, as before observed, is calculated to perform daily the work of 20 expert hand embroiderers ; and it re- quires merely the labour of one adult, and two assistant children. The operator nuist be well instructed in the use of the machine, for he has many things to attend to at the same time : w^ith one hand, he follows the drawings with the point of the pantograph ; with the other, he turns a handle, to prick and draw all the needles, which are held fast in pincers, and carried by carriages, approaching to and receding from the web, rolling all the time along an iron railway ; and lastly, by means of two pedals or treadles, on which he bears alternately, with one foot and then the other, he opens the 130 pincers of the first carriage, which must give up the needles after having pricked them into the stuff, and he shuts at the same * We Hiink these compliments have been altogether misplaced. Would it not have been more becoming in these gentlemen, to have sent Mr. Heilmann, the inventor of the machine, a handsome gold medal, in token of their admi- ration of his ingenuity ? INSERT FOLDOUT HERE EMBROIDERY. 309 time the 130 pincers of the second carriage, which must receive them and draw them back afterwards. The children have nothing else to do, but to change the needles when the threads are used up, and to watch that no needle misses its pincers. We shall endeavour to make all the details of this machine per- fectly understood ; because, it is not less remarkable for the arrange- ment of the parts which compose it, than for the effects produced. We shall describe successively, 1st. The arrangement of the frame, 2nd. The arrangement of the stuff, 3rd. The arrangement of the carriages, 4th. The arrangement of the pincers. ARRANGEMENT OF THE FRAME. The frame is of cast iron ; the parts must be strongly fixed together and set on a foundation firm enough not to be shaken, either by the motion of the machine itself or the movements of the girls, who go from one pincer to another to change or fix the needles. Fig. 1, represents an elevation taken in front of the machine, and Fig. 2, an elevation taken from the left hand side of the machine (as you stand in front of Fig. 1,) In Fig. 2, the side of the frame forms two equal rectangles A B B A, A B B A, symmetrically placed, one at the right, the other at the left hand (as you stand at the side of the machine), and united in the middle by a third rectangle, narrower and more elevated, ADC A.* This assemblage of the three rectangles, forms but one piece or casting ;t the sections of the horizontal and vertical sides of the machine are quite similar : on the right hand side at No. 1 (plate 2) is shown a section of the frame, and below it, is represented one of the feet «, which has a hole to receive a fastening screw, by which it is secured to the ground. The other side of the frame, which is not represented in * If the reader will carefully examine the central or middle rectangle (of Fig. 2) he will find that it presents a complete edge view in elevation of the left hand side of Fig. 1, being that side on which the machine is worked, as the position of the pantograph denotes ; th» letters of reference in the edge or central rectangle Fig. 2, correspond to those of the pantograph or left side of Fig. 1. t It would be desirable to cast the sides of the frame in one complete piece, as it would save much labor in the fitting up. 310 THE ART OF WEAVING. the figure, is entirely similar ; we shall designate corresponding parts by the same letters of reference with an accent : thus, A' B' B' A', A' B' B' A', will be the two symmetrical rectangles of the second end of the frame, A' D' C' A' will be the rectangle of the middle, corresponding to A D C A, and a' will represent the six feet (see Fig. 2) corresponding to those designated by a. Between each foot and its correspondent a' there is a bar of cast iron A", the form and disposition of which is shown in Fig. 1. Thus, at the under part, the two sides of the frame are joined by six bars, similar to the bar A" ; besides, at the two extremities of each of these bars, there are knees a", to give strength to the frame, two of these knees are shown in Fig. 1 : at their upper part, the two sides of the frame are joined by a single bar D" (Fig. 1,) which has the form of a trough ; and is fastened by a nut and screw to the cor- responding angles D and D'. Fig. 3 represents at its upper part a section of this bar ; Fig. 1, shows the form of its outer edge, as well as that of its back, which is represented by a dotted line. Such is the disposition of the frame, which bears all the mecJran- ism of the machine ; and it is necessary to possess an exact idea of it, in order to understand how the other fixed parts are supported ; and how the moveable parts, which are here very numerous, are enabled to perform their respective functions with perfect regularity. The width of the machine depends upon the number of pincers intended to be set to work. The model which we saw at the exhi- bition in Paris, contained 260 pincers, and was 2\ metres wide (about 8 feet 4 inches of our measure.) The figures here given have been narrowed considerably, but the other proportions are not dis- turbed. In our drawings (Figs 1 and 2) the bars A'' and D", which connect the sides of the frame A and A' together (see Fig. 1) instead of being 2\- metres long, are not quite 2 metres, (see scale at foot of Fig. 2.) The length of the frame must always be the same, whether the machine be wide or narrow, for the length of the thread that can be put in the needles, depends upon the length ; and it is always ad- vantageous to give the frame, as we have done, all the length adopt- ed by M. Heilmann, that is to say, a little more than two metres, so that the needles might bear a thread one metre long. ARRANGEMENT OF THE STUFF TO BE EMBROIDERED. We have already observed that the pincers which carry the needles, present themselves always at the same point, and that con- EMBROIDERY. 311 sequently, the needles would pass and repass continually through the same hole, if the stuff was not displaced with a precision, suffi- cient to present successively, opposite the point of the needle, all the points through which the needle has to pass, to execute the flower or the drawings intended. The disposition of the stuff and the mechanism by which it is displaced, to the requisite extent, after the needle has gone through, are therefore of great importance, and we shall try to explain them. The stuff is set on a large rectangular frame, the four sides of which are visible in Fig. 1, viz: the two vertical sides at F, Fj and the two horizontal sides, the upper and the under, at F', F'. Fig. 1, shows also two long wooden rollers G, G, the extremities of which, fastened with iron trunnions, bear on the sides F of the frame, on which they turn. These two rollers form a system of beams, on which the stuff destined to be embroidered, may be rolled and stretched vertically to the proper degree, for each of these beams has at one of its extremities a little ratchet wheel g, g ; the teeth of one of these wheels being bent in a contrary direction to the teeth of the other, as indicated in Fig. 3, it follows, that in rais- ing, for instance, the catch of the upper wheel and turning the beam in the direction indicated by the arrow, the stuff draws the under beam and tends to make it turn, whilst the catch of its ratchet wheel holds it, and the stuff G" (see Figs. 1 and 3) stretches more and more ; the same result would be produced by turning the under beam, after having raised its catch. When it is desired to pass any part of the stuff from one of the beams to the other, it suffices to raise at the same time the two catches and to turn in the proper di- rection the beam on which the stuff is wanted to be rolled, and to let the catch of the other beam drop ; then it remains only to stretch the stuff. Besides this system of under beams, there is a second system of two upper beams, for the same purpose, and which is disposed ex- actly in the same manner ; it is also represented in Fig. 3, but it is not completely seen in Fig. 1, where it is hidden in part by some other pieces. Supposing that one of these systems presents the stuff to the upper needles, and the other to the under : as the two beams of each system have not their axes in the same vertical plane, the plan« of the stuff G" (Fig. 3) would be inclined and would come to present itself obliquely to the needles, if the workman did not take care to put it straight, and bring it back exactly in the middle, by means of a strong wooden ruler, fixed, as well as the rollers, on 312 THE ART OF WEAVING. the two vertical sides of the frame ; this ruler is shown at G', Fig. 3, for each of the systems of beams. The stuff must also receive a lateral tension, in the two opposite directions, and to effect this without its being torn, the operator sews on its edges, little ribbands of linen cloth or other suitable material, and afterwards ties to these ribbands, strings g" (Fig. 1) which draw them laterally and which are fixed to the sides F of the frame. It remains to see now, by what ingenious means, the frame may be displaced in all directions, without deviating from the vertical plane m which it had at first been fixed, and how the stuff which is fastened on it, and consequently forced to follow all its movements, may present opposite each needle, the successive points which must be pricked and crossed by the thread. Mr. Heilmann, lo obtain this result, uses the pantograph, by means of which he is enabled to reduce or extend, in fixed propor- tions, drawings of all kinds. Every one knows the principles on which this instrument is founded, and we shall only recall them to memory in a few words: bb'fb" (Fig. 1) represents a parallelo- gram whose four angles b, b\f, b", are hinged, and so disposed as to become either very acute or very obtuse, the sides keeping always the same length ; the sides b b', and b b", are lengthened, one to the point d, and the other to the point c, and these points c, and d, are chosen, on condition that in one of the positions of the parallelo- gram, the hne c d which joins them, will pass through the point f; this condition can be fulfilled in many ways, since the position of the parallelogram remaining the same, it is evident, that in order to carry the point d further from the point b', it would suffice to bring properly the point c to tlie point b", or vice versa ; but when the distance b' d has been once chosen, the distance b" c, is a necessary consequence. Now, the principle on which the construction of the pantograph rests is this : it is sufficient that the three points c?,/ and c, be in a straight line in only one of the positions of the parallelo- gram, to have them to remain always in a straight line, whatever its position be. For, since in the present position, the line c d passes through the point/, the triangles 6'c?/and b" c f are similar, as having equal angles ; for b' f being parallel to 6"c, and b' d to b" f, the three angles of the first of these triangles are equal respectively to the three angles of the second ; we have then the proportion b"c b' f b"f b'd EMBROIDERY. 313 but, ill aU. the positions that the parallelogram may take, in opening or shutting arbitrarily the angle 6, the sides will remain parallel, since the figure will still be a parallelogram ; the angle c h"f will then lemain equal to the angle d h' f^ and consequently, if in any other position, the point c be joined to the point / and the point d to the same/", the two triangles b" c f and 6 / d which will result from it, will still have an equal angle comprised within two propor- tional sides; thus they will be similar, and the two lines cf and f d will be on the same line, that is to say, the three points c, / and d will remain in a straight line. This once admitted, suppose that we move the point c, in a cer- tain direction, in making all the system turn round the point d ; let us imagine, for instance, that the point c comes in c : then, in joining d to c', it is evident that the point / will be found some- where on that hne d c', in f, for instance, since it falls always on the straight line, which joins the point d to any position which the point c may take. We have seen, besides, that the new triangles formed on d c', (and analogous to the triangles h" cf and b' f d of the primitive position) are similar, and since the lengths c b" and b" f, d b , and b' f, are constant, we have : c'f b" c df b'f ' in the primitive position we had cf b" c df b'f it follows then c/ cf df df the result is, that the line//' is parallel to c c'. The same thing will happen, when the point c passes into ano- ther point c" : the point / will pass at the same time, into another point /", and the Unes //", /'/", will be respectively parallel to the hues c c", c' c" ; then, lastly, the figures described by the point / in the diverse positions of the parallelogram, are always exactly similar to the figures described by the point c. To find, now, the relation which exists between the outlines of these figures, it is sufficient to observe, that in the primitive trian- gles b" c f and b' f d. we have : 40 314 THE ART OF WEAVING. C/ h" C df hf hence cf+df b"cWf but thus df b'f cf^-df=^dc, and6"c+6'/=6c; dc be df b'f the triangles dff and dec' being similar, we have also ee' de hence it results //' df cc' be be ff b'f bb" If the side b b" has been made equal to the sixth part of b c, ff will be also | of cc', that is to say, that in general the outlines de- scribed by the point / will be exactly the sixth part of the outlines described by the point c. This proposition is that adopted by Mr. Heilmann. It may also be observed, that the triangles dbe and d b' f bemg also similar triangles, we have be db b'f d b' and as Mr. Heilmann has taken b' d= b'f it results be=bd. After this demonstration, which requires only the first notions of geometry, to be understood, it will be very easy to perceive how the pantograph acts in the embroidering machine. In looking over Figs. 1, 2 and 3, it will be seen in Fig. 1, that the side b c has a handle B", by which the workman puts the instrument in action ; Fig. 2 shows the profile of the angles and hinges ; and Fig. 3 shows more plainly, the support on which it turns, and the turning point by which it carries the stuff" and frame in its movements. To obtain more precision and solidity, the sides of the pantograph are joined together, so that the middle of their thickness is exactly in the vertical plane of the stuff, and the axles of the hinges as perpendicular as possible, to that plane in which, consequently, all EMBROIDERY. 315 the movements are accomplished. This is effected by fixing on the large upper bar D" a bent piece d" (Figs. 1 and 3) having a proper jutting, and on which is also fixed the piece d', which is joined to the extremity b d hy di hinge ; this piece d' is fastened to d" by an iron pin ; but it has an oblong hole, and before fastening the nut it must be drawn backwards or forwards, until the support be exactly in the plane of the stuff. This condition being accomplished, it re- mains only to fix the frame to the angle / of the parallelogram ; which is done by means of the piece F" (Figs. 1 and 3.) It is now plain, that, if the workman takes hold with his hand of the handle B" (Fig. 1) and makes the pantograph move in any way, the point/ will describe a figure similar to the figure described by the point c and 6 times smaller, as w^e have demonstrated, but the point / cannot move without moving the frame and all its sup- ports ; besides, if the frame is well fixed on all sides, and forced to move in the same plane, each of its points and of those fastened to it, will go exactly through the same way as the point/. Thus, in the motion of the pantograph, every point of the stuff describes a figure equal to that, described by the point / and consequently similar to that, w^hicli the point c describes and 6 times smaller. It is sufficient, then, to give to the workman, who holds the handle B" a drawing six times larger than that which must be executed by the machine, and to give him at the same time a sure and easy means to go wath the point c through all the outhnes of that draw- ing : for this purpose, there is fixed at c, and perpendicular to the parallelogram, a little style, terminated by a point C", and the drawing is set on a vertical board E, parallel to the plane of the stufl!" and the parallelogram, and put back only a distance equal to tbe length of the style c C" (Figs. 1 and 2;) this board is support- ed by the iron rod e', fixed on an iron foot E' (Fig. 1) which is also used for different purposes, as we shall show hereafter ; the frame, loaded with its beams and stuff, forms a pretty heavy weight, and it will be observed that if it is necessary, as we have said to direct it, . to keep it in its plane, it is necessary also to lighten it, so that the embroiderer may carry the point of the pantograph without effort or uncertainty in his movements. Mr. Heilmann has accomplished this in the following manner : 1st. A rope e (Fig. 1,) tied to the side 6 c of the pantograph, passes over a pulley and supports at its extremity a weight which the workman may graduate, at will : this weight balances the pan- tograph and tends to raise the frame a little ; 2d. The upper side F' of the frame carries two jutting rulers, 316 THE ART OF ^\ EAVING. the profile of which is seen at E" (Fig. 3,) both have a longitudinal and horizontal slit in which the rod e" may easily slide (Figs. 1 and 3), which thus is used as a guide to maintain in its plane, all the upper part of the frame, for the rods e" are fixed to the great bar D" ; the length of the sht at each of the rulers E" must be equal to the amplitude of the lateral movement, which the frame can take ; 3d. The under side of the frame, has two horizontal rods H and H (Fig. 1) supported by two small arms, which aje a little bent, as shown at h (Fig. 2 ;) each of these rods is fixed in the groove of a pulley H' (Fig. 1,) the blocks of which are of an oval form (Fig. 4) and supported by two triangular flanges h', h' on the two arms h" which form the extremity of a forked lever H", the profile of which is shown in Fig. 2 : the two levers H" must move together, in order that the two sides of the frame may be equally raised ; therefore they are keyed on a shaft I', supported at its two extremities by feet of cast iron I" (Fig. 2,) a counterpoise I, which slides on the arms of the levers H", and which, as it may be carried from or near the line of the supports, allows to raise the frame upwards to any required height, and without preventing the frame to move in all directions, prevents, however, its being dis- placed from the original plane, for which the pantograph had been regulated ; the length of the rods H must also be equal to the am- pUtude of the lateral movement of the frame, and the arms of the levers H ' must be sufiiciently long to let the arc, which they make the flanges It' (Fig. 4) of the pulley describe, be confounded by de- grees with a straight line, in the greatest excursion from top to bot- tom or from bottom to top, which the frame can make. 4th. Two guides i, i (Fig. 1) supported on iron feet, have vertical slits in which the under side of the frame F is fastened. ARRANGEMENT OF THE CARRIAGES. Before we describe the arrangement and action of the pincers which carr)^ the needles, we shall explain the disposition and move- ment of the two carriages which carry these pincers and all their mechanism. These carriages, which are entirely similar, are disposed one at the right and the other at the left of the frame (Fig. 2 ;) we shall designate by the same letters of reference the pieces which compose them. Each carriage executes its movements on a railway, composed of EMBROIDERY. 317 two rails as straight as possible and horizontally fixed, one at each side of the machine.* One of these rails is seen at K (Fig. 2 ;) an end view is given on the right at No. 2, and its plan is represented in Fig. 5 ; the two jutting parts k, k are placed and bolted on two brackets, also bolted to the two vertical posts A C and A B of the frame : one of these brackets is seen at the left (Fig. 1,) the corresponding bracket of the other rail is seen also on the right, against the post A' B'. The carriage itself is composed only of a long hollow cylinder of cast iron L (Figs. 1, 2 and 6) having at each of its extremities two wheels L' which roll on the rails K (Figs 1 and 2 ;) the wheels L' are mounted on a piece V (Fig. 2) forked to receive the axis of the wheels, and the piece l is also bolted on the piece or appendix I (Figs. 1 and 6) which is cast on the cylinder L. These pieces, which, properly speaking, constitute the carriage, are then in perfect equilibrium on the rails K, and thus may with the greatest facility approach or withdraw from the stuff to prick or draw the needles. But, to supersede the necessity of employing a person to produce these alternate motions of the carriage, Mr. Heilmann attaches to it, a piece of mechanism by means of which the workman who directs the pantograph, can himself without changing his place, conduct the carriages and regulate, as he pleases, the extent of their course as well as the rapidity of their motions. This mechanism, will perhaps appear to many readers, at first sight, a little complicated, but in reality it is simple and very inge- nious, and what is an essential point, it acts with remarkable preci- sion. We shall now endeavour to make this part of the arrange- ment understood. A pulley J (Fig. 2) is fastened against the post A B at the right of the frame, by two stands J' and J" : a similar pulley is fastened to the other end of the frame against the corresponding post A' B' (Fig. 1 :) in this figure, the last only has been represented, and that which is fastened to the post A B has been suppressed, to show the wheel m (see left side of Fig. 1, and edge view in centre of Fig. 2) on which it would project. On a level with the centre of the pul- leys J is fixed an iron shaft M" (Fig 1) supported in proper couplings or bearings, which are fixed against the large posts A C and A' C' * The reader will, of course, understand, that there are two sets of rails K K, with their pulleys L' L', one set on each side of the machine, as seen at K K and L' L' (Fig. 1.) 318 THE ART OF WEAVING. (Fig. 1.) of the frame; the shaft M ' has towards its extremities, but inside the frame, two cog wheels m : the left hand one is visible in Fig. 1. the right being hid by the pulley J ; its left extremity (pan tograph side) projects outside the frame, to support another cog wheel M (Figs. 1 and 2.) On the pulley J and on the correspond- ing cog wheel 7Ji. passes an endless chain j (Fig. 2 :) the part of this chain which must pass round the circumference of the wheel ni is called Yaucanson's chain {chaine-de-Vaucanso7i.) the other which must pass round the circumference of the pulley J is a sim- ple strap : the two extremities of the chain j. are secured, one at j' and the other at j ' (Fig. 2) to the piece m". which is supported by the extremity of the stud-pin m' (see right side of Fig. 1) which is fixed in the piece I of the extremity of the cylinder L ; tliis same stud-pin also carries a roller which runs under the rail K; to steady the carriage. It results from this arrangement, that by turning the shaft M" (Fi?. 1) or the wheel M (Fig. 2) in the direction indicated by the arrow (Fig. 2.) the carriage wiU be forced towards the stuff; and. on the contrary, by turning the wheel 31 in a direction opposite to the arrow, the carriage vriW. move from the stuff. The left hand carriage (Fig. 2) is arranged exactly as the right hand one. v\hich we have just described ; every thing is the same and designated by the same letters of reference, with the exception of the wheel 31, which is at the extremity of the shaft 31" corres- ponding to the second carriage, it is designated by the letter 31', be- cause it is necessary to distinguish the two wheels 31 and 31', which are, however, in all respects similar and fixed in the same manner. When one of the carriages has advanced and pricked the needles into the stuff, the other is there ready to receive them, it takes hold of them, draws them, performs its course in removing, to draw the thread and tighten the stitch, afterwards : it comes back and brings the needles to prick the stuff in its turn ; during its motion, the first carriage must remain in its place waiting for it ; thus the two car- riages go alternately backwards and forwards, but never move at the same time. To effect this, 3Ir. HeUmann has disposed on the piece O, which is bolted on the two posts A C and A D of the frame, a bent lever n on 71 '. moveable round the point o ; the bending n' has a cog- wheel 0'. and the extremity 7i" another cog-wheel O ; the four wheels 31, 31 , O' and O" have similar teeth and diameter ; the two wheels O and O ' are fixed in relation to each other, so that it is sufficient to turn the handle X (Figs. 1 and 2) to make the wheel EMBROIDERY. 319 O" turn, and consequently the wheel O' : when the lever n o is ver- tical, the wheel O' touches neither the wheel M nor the wheel M', but when inclined to one side or the other, it will mesh or gear alternately into the wheel M or the wheel M'. Viewing these parts as they are represented by Fig. 2, it is evident, that by turning the handle N in the direction indicated by the arrow, the wheel M will turn in the direction indicated by its arrow, and the right carriage will approach to the limit which prevents the pincers from touching the stuff, with a rapidity which depends entirely on the person who turns the handle N : by turning the handle in a contrary direction, the carriage will go backwards, and the simple movement of the lever n o (Figs. 1 and 2) will suffice to act alter- nately on the left or on the right hand carriage. The reader will perceive, that when the lever n o is vertical, the wheel O' will neither touch the wheel M nor yet the wheel M', but if the lever n o is in- clined to one side or the other, the wheel O' will be geared into the wheel M or M, alternately. The workman having one of his hands occupied with the handle B' of the pantograph, and the other with the handle N, he has only his feet left to act on the lever n o, and as he has yet many other things to do, Mr. Heilmann has placed before him two treadles, by means of which he executes with his feet a series of operations not less delicate than those he executes with his hands. For the present^ we shall consider these treadles only as the means of communicating motion to the lever n o. The treadles P (Figs. 1 and 2) are moveable round the axis p (Fig. 1), and have ropes p' rolled in a contrary direction on the pul- leys P' ; these pulleys are fixed on a shaft P" (Figs. 1 and 2) supported on one side by the stand E', and on the other by a piece K' fastened to the two large posts of the frame A C and A D (Fig. 2) ; the shaft P'' supports at its extremity a piece r, represented in front, and a side view No. 3, a little above, and at the left of the place which it occupies (Fig. 1) ; it has teeth on a portion of its cir- cumference (we shall see further the use of these teeth, but for the present we have only to speak of the part without teeth) ; and is furnished with a pin, which goes into the forked extremity of the lever n o ; now, it is evident, that by lowering the treadle P, which is now raised (Fig. 1) the upper part of the shaft P" (supposed to be seen from the end as in Fig. 2) will turn from left to right, and the lever n o will be inclined so as to gear the wheel O' into the wheel M', but at the same time, the treadle which is now down will be raised, because its rope P' (Figs. 1 and 2) will of necessity be rolled 320 THE ART OF WEAVING. on its pulley in proportion as the other rope will unroll, so that the apparatus will be quite ready to act in a contrary direction, when needed. ARRANGEMENT OF THE PINCERS. The shaft L' (Figs. 1 and 2) supports from distance to distance, at spaces of about half a metre, appendices q q fastened to it (see also Fig. 6, where the scale is larger) ; it is to these appendices that are fastened, with two bolts, the curved arms Q, (Figs. 1 and 2) which are destined to support all the mechanism of the pincers ; Fig. 6 represents a part only of one of these arms but as they are disposed nearly in the same manner abov^e and below (see Fig. 2) the shaft L', this part is sufficient, with the Figs. 1 and 2, to give a complete idea of them : an iron rail, forming a well set triangular prism, represented at S (Figs. 6 and 7), extends between the two consecutive arms Gl, Q,, as seen in Fig. 1, and it is fixed against each of these arms by means of an ear s' (Figs. 6 and 7) in which passes an iron pin which crosses the thickness of the arm but instead of a simple hole, the ear has a slit which allows to carry it backwards or forwards. The workman can then put, one after another, in a very straight line, the three rulers S, which must be found in the three intervals of the arms Q, (Fig. 1) ; each of them is a little prolonged beyond its two ears, so that, after they are properly arranged, the three consecutive rulers, seem to form but a single triangular prism, extending from one end to the other of the carriage. This prism is destined to receive and to support all the pincers that are found in a row. Figs. 8, 9, 10 and 1 1, represent the different parts which compose one of the pincers. At T (Fig. 8) is seen the under jaw, set in its place and fixed on the prismatic ruler ; it will be observed easily that it has : 1st. Underneath, a Uttle to the left, a set screw t, by means of which it is fixed on this prismatic ruler, the form of which ruler it has at its under part ; 2d. At the left extremity (see Figs. 6 and 8), a spring t', used to raise the end of the upper jaw V, in forcing it to shut and to press against the under jaw ; 3d. Upwards, and towards its middle, two little round ears, with a hole in them, and separated from each other by an interval equal to the thickness of the upper jaw, and destined to receive the cor- responding ear v of this jaw ; EMBROIDERY. 321 4th. A little to the right of the ears, a small vertical jutting f , serving to stop the needle, if by any cause it should be misplaced or too much in advance ; 5th. At the right extremity, a thin plate T', having a conical hole larger inside than outside ; a front view of this plate is repre- sented at Fig. 11. The upper jaw V has been removed from its place in Fig. 8, in order to show its form better. It will now be perceived, that if the upper jaw V of the pincer (see Fig. 8) is dropped down into its place between the ears t" and a pin passed through tliese ears, the pincer will be complete, or Hke that shown in Figs. 2, 6 and 7. In order that the pincer may be opened to receive the needle, the long end of the upper jaw V must be pressed down sufficiently to overcome the elasticity of the spring t'. Fig. 9 represents a view of the pincer from above (a plan view) ; it also shows the size of the jaws and that of the spring t'. Fig. 10 represents a pincer, seen from the end, on the side of the plate T'. Fig. 12 represents a needle V, of full working size ; the eye is in the middle, the thread is put in it as in a common needle, but it is not doubled, the filaments of the short end are only mixed with those of the long near the needle, and are slightly twisted, so that they may hold better, and go more easily through the stuff through the hole which the needle makes. When a pincer is opened and half of the needle comes to be en- gaged in it, by the opening of the plate T', it is fixed in an angular groove, the depth of which is a little less than the diameter of the needle ; and when the pincer is shut, the upper jaw V, holds it in the groove ; thus the needle is held fast, by three points of its cir- cumference. Suppose now, that all the pincers are set at a proper distance on the prismatic ruler S (Figs 6, 7 and 8) to form the upper row of the right hand carriage, as seen in Fig. 1, we shall endeavour to ex- plain by what kind of mechanism the workman succeeds in open- ing, at the same time, all the pincers of the upper row, when they should deliver up the needles to those of the opposite carriage, after having pricked them into the stuff. There is for this purpose, an iron shaft U which extends from one side of the carriage to the other (see Fig. 1) ; an end view of this shaft is shown at U Fig. 13, by which it will be seen, that it is flat on one side : this shaft is supported by little forks u (Fig. 6) which 41 322 THE ART OF WEAVING. are fastened with bolts at the extremity of the arms Q,, and it is fixed there by a key-pin u' ; the shaft is round in the parts which rest in the forks, and these are of such a height, that when its flat part is turned downwards, it touches the ends of all the upper jaws V, without pressing them, so that the pincers remain shut, and it opens them when it turns on its axis, by forcmg down the springs t'. To produce this effect, Mr. Heilmann fixes at the two extremities of the shaft U two sectors with teeth x, x, a side view of which may be seen in Fig. 2 ; each of these sectors gears into a toothed vertical ruler X (Figs. 1 and 2) which can slide against the arm Q. of the carriage, where it is fixed, and the ruler X has at its under part an horizontal pin x' (Figs. 1 and 2) ; it is by means of these pins that the movement is communicated to the ruler X, and to the sector A', and consequently to the shaft U, to open and shut the pincers. We shall now try to explain how the workman performs this operation, by means of the two treadles P (Figs. 1 and 2.) We have already said, that the shaft P", which is put in motion by the treadles P, supports at its right extremity (Fig. 1) a piece p'' destined to make the lever no act ; this piece is represented in front at Fisf. 2, and on the left at No. 3 ; it has teeth on two-thirds of its circumference, and is used as a pinion ; with its toothed part, it gears into a sector r, fixed at the extremity of the shaft R (Figs. 1 and No. 3) which can revolve on its axis and is supported by proper bearings r' r' (Fig. 1), placed in the middle of the hori- zontal and lower bars of the frame. The shaft R also supports two arms Z Z (Fig. 1 and No. 3), placed crosswise upon it, and ter- minated by forks z and z'] the two forks designated by z' correspond to the left hand carriage (as seen in Fig. 2), and those designated by z correspond to the right carriage ; they are destined to receive the stud-pins x' of the notched rulers X ; and it is very easy to understand how they operate. For, taking these parts as they are represented in Fig. 2, let us suppose that the workman brings the right carriage towards him, by turning the handle N, in the di- rection of the arrow : then, the carriage advancing, secures the stud-pins x' in the forks z'^ and pricks into the stuff the jutting half of the needles which it carries, and these halves enter into the pin- cers of the left hand carriage, which are open to receive them, it is then necessary instantly, to shut the left hand carriage pincers, so that they may take the needles and open the right hand carriage pincers to give them up. This the workman does with his foot, at once : he bears on the raised treadle to draw the rope which it sup- EMBROIDERY. 323 ports ; then the movement of rotation which is produced in the cor- responding pulley is communicated to the shaft P", pinion p" sector r, shaft R, and simultaneously to the two arms Z, Z, the extremi- ties z, z of these arms (Figs. 1 and 2) are raised and carry the stud-pins X' in their ascending movement, consequently the toothed rulers X ascend in sliding in their grooves or guides, make the sectors x and the flat sided shaft U turn, which gives pressure on the end of all the upper jaws V of the pincers and opens them all at once, by means of the arms Z Z (No. 3), the forks z^ z' which terminate them at the left, descend and carry with them the stud- pins x' of the toothed rulers X of the left hand carriage, make the corresponding sectors x turn as well as the flattened shaft U, on which they are fixed ; its flat side coming on the ends of the upper jaw V of the pincers, and all the pincers of this side are shut by means of the springs V. Thus at the same time, the workman shuts the pincers of the left hand carriage and opens those of the right hand carriage, which will remain open until they have re- ceived the needles, after the return of the left hand carriage. The same movement of the treadle, which produced this double result, has also changed the position of the lever n o (Fig. 2) and brought the wheel O' on the wheel M' ; so that the workman has only to turn the handle N to give motion to the left hand carriage, which draws the needle and tightens the stitch. The threads are stretched in proportion as the carriage withdraws, but this tension presenting no elasticity, some inconvenience might have happened, had not Mr. Heilmann fixed to the carriages a piece of mechanism by means of which every thread is pressed at the same time by a weight, which is easily regulated, as will be hereafter more fully explained. The reader will see in Fig. 1 (a little below the prismatic rail which supports the pincers) a shaft Y which extends across the carriage and projects over it at each side ; this shaft is supported by pieces y which are bolted on the arms Cl(Figs. 1, 2 and 6) in which it may turn ; at its left extremity, it has two little bars ij' and w, and at its right exti-emity a single bar y' and a counterpoise y" which may be seen in Fig. 2 ; the extremities of the two bars y' are connected by a stout wire which extends across the machine (Fig. 1) and which wire must be very straight : this wire is simply twisted together at its ends after having taken a turn round the notched ends of the bars y', as will be seen, on close examination (Fig. 1) ; the position of the wire, connected to the ends of the bars y' is also indicated in Figs. 2, 6 and 7 ; all the threads which come from the needles must 324 THE ART OF WEAVING. pass under this wire, (see Figs. 2 and 6.) When the carriage ap- proaches the stuff, and before the wire touches it, the bar w, (the position of which is seen in Fig. 2) meets a stud-pin lo' (Fig. 1), which bears against it and raises it gradually ; the bars y', y' and the wire which connects them is raised at the same time and take the position represented in Fig. 7 : on the contrary, when the carriage, in leaving that position, goes from the stuff, the bar w shdes in descending on the pin w\ is removed to a little distance, and then the counterpoise y" makes the bars y' fall, bringing down the wire which connects them, on all the threads of the needles ; after which the machinery takes the position indicated in Figs. 2 and 6. In the description just given, we have only considered the upper range of pincers and needles, in order to simplify our demonstrations, but it will be seen that in Figs. 1 and 2, there is an under range of pincers and needles which are also connected to the lower extremity of the arms Q, exactly similar to the upper range ; the machinery which opens and shuts the pincers is also the same, and operates simultaneously, which will be seen by referring to Fig. 2, because the sectors x x and toothed rulers X X are the same : the flattened shaft U of the upper carriage is precisely the same as that of the under carriage. Tension is communicated to the threads of the lower needles by an arrangement the same as that above designated by the letters of reference Y, y, y\ w and w', (see Figs. 1 and 2.) Having thus described, to the best of our ability, this beautiful piece of mechanism, we will offer a few remarks in regard to its operation. The size of the patterns which the machine can embroider is limited, as well as the number of needles to be set at work ; because, all the needles in each carriage (on the same horizontal line) have each its respective pattern, so that the number of patterns to be em- broidered will be equal to the number of needles employed. For example, in Fig. 1, there are 15 patterns in each range ; these would require one needle each ; it is therefore evident, that the distance between the needles, respectively, must be somewhat greater than the breadth of the pattern to be embroidered, or the motion of the frame would cause a part of the stuff which had been embroidered by one needle, to come in front of another needle. Therefore, if it is desired to work with 130 needles, 65 above and 65 below, and if, for example, each pattern was to be 7 inches in breadth, it is very evident, that the distance between the needles should be rather more than 7 inches, and would require a machine EMBROIDERY. 325 more than 65 times 7 inches, or about 13 metres in breadth : but, the arrangement of the mechanism will not allow to give the ma- chine so great a breadth : hitherto the machines have been confined to 2^ metres for the working part, carrying on this space 130 needles, that is to say, 65 above and 65 below, set at a distance of about 1^ inches apart (mettre a la distance d' environ 4 centimetres) ; this then is the maximum of the breadth of^ the patterns to be em- broidered. To embroider patterns of a larger size the number of needles must be diminished so as to allow of a greater distance between thera : it would be necessary, for instance, to reduce them one-half, to produce patterns 3 inches (8 centimetres) wide. But, in diminishing the number of needles, we decrease the ad- vantages of the machine ; because, it requires as much time to work a carriage with 50 needles as one with 130. Although the machine is limited in its width, it has the advan- tage of having no limit in its length or height ; it may, for instance, eml)roider at the same time 130 ribbands of any length ; it will suffice to dispose these ribbands on the beams G, and to embroider all the height which the vertical motion of the frame allows ; then the workman marks the place wdiere he has left off, and stops the working of the machine for a moment, while he rolls on one of the beams G the embroidered part which he had executed, and brings before the needles the new stuff which is to be embroidered ; he makes the point of the pantograph rise or descend, according to the part last finished, whether above or below, the pattern on the table E (Fig. 1) being raised or lowered to correspond ; and then con- tinues to embroider from the mark which he had made before rolling the stuff on the beam. It will be perceived, that the workman must not follow with the pantograph, the pattern which is on the board E, but must stop the point of that instrument on the point or little square of the design paper or pattern which the needle is going to prick, he carries it again and stops it on the point through which the needle should go or enter in returning, and so forth. To facilitate this kind of reading, the pattern which is on the board E, is composed of straight lines, crossing each other at right angles, as in Fig. 70, (which see) so that the workman has contin- ually under his eye the pattern divided off into small squares, which he must follow with the point of the pantograph ; should he hap- pen to be interrupted and have neglected to mark the place where he left off, he must look at the embroidered stuff in the machine, 326 THE ART OF WEAVING. to see what has been already embroidered and to find by compari- son with the pattern on the table E, where he is to commence his work again, in order to leave nothing undone and not to repeat twice the same thino". INDEX TO PLATES 1 AND 2. A B C D, Fig. 2, The side of the frame where the workman sits. A' B' C', Fig. 1, The opposite side of the frame. A", Fig. 1, Lower cross-bars which connect the feet of the two sides of the frame. a, The six feet of the frame, (Fig. 2) on the pantograph side. a', The six feet of the opposite side of the frame, (see Fig. 1). a", Fig. 1, Knees which unite the cross-bars A" to the verti- cal posts of the frame. B", Figs. 1 and 2, Handle of the pantograph. b.b'jb", Three of the angles of the pantograph. c, Point of the side bb" on which the point is fixed. C", Fig. 2, Point of the panto- graph. D", Figs, 1 and 2, Cross-bar in the shape of a trough which unites the frame above. d, Fixed points on which the pantograph turns. E, Fig. 1, Board on which the pattern to be embroidered is put. E', Support of the board E. e, Rope attached by one end to the side 6 c of the pantograph, passing over a pulley, and hav- ing a weight at the other end. e', Iron rod to support the board E. E", Fig. 3, Sliding rule fixed on the side F of the frame. e", Figs. 1 and 2, Rod fixed on the cross-bar D" and sliding in the sliding rule E". FF, Figs 1, 2 and 3, Vertical posts of tlie frame which car- ries the stuff". F' F' Figs. 1, 2 and 3, Horizon- tal sides of the same frame. F", Figs. 1 and 3, Stand fixed on the upper side F' of the frame and connected by an axis pin to the pantograph. f, Fourth angle of the parallelo- gram which forms the panto- graph. G, Figs. L 2 and 3, Four rollers or wooden beams fixed on the vertical posts of the frame for carr3'ing the stuflf. G', Figs. 3 and 7, Two rulers fixed on the same posts and mtended to maintain in the same vertical plane, the stuflT rolled on the beams G. g; Fig. 3, Ratchet wheels fixed at one of the ends of the rol- lers G. g-', Catches which hold the wheels g: G" StuflT. g-", Fig. 1, Strings used to stretch the stuff" sideways. H, Guide-rods fixed to the under side of the frame which car- ries the stuflf. h, Figs. 1 and 2, Curved arms which support the rods H. H', Figs. 1 and 3, Throated pul- leys in which the rods H slide. h' h', Figs. 1 and 4, Flanges by which the blocks of the pul- leys H' are supported. H", Large levers which support at one end the blocks of the pulleys H' and at the other counterpoises I (Fig. 2.) EMBROIDERY. 327 h'\ Fig. 1, The two extremities of the forks of the levers H". I, Counterpoise of the lever H". I', Fig-. 2, Shaft on which are supported the levers H", fixed to answer for each other and so that the two sides of the frame which carries the stuff be supported and moved at the top with an equal force. I", Figs. 1 and 2, The two sup- ports of the extremities of the shaft I'. i, Fig. 1, Two iron feet having a vertical slit in which slides the under edge of the frame, serving to maintain it in its plane during its motions. J, Fig. 2, Pulleys at each end of the frame. J' and J' , Figs 1 and 2, Stands which support the pulley J. j^ Endless chain. j' andj ', Points to which the extremities of the endless chain are attached. K, Figs. 1, 2 and 5, Rails for the carriages ; Fig. 5 represents one of these rails, seen from above, with flanges k by which it is bolted to the upright posts B of the frame. K', Fig. 2, Cross pieces bolted to the two posts A D and A C and supporting the extremity of the shaft P". /:, Flange of the rails K. L, Figs. 1, 2 and 6, Shaft or cylinder of the carriage, hav- ing at its two extremities a flange by which it is fastened to the wheel-carriers l and having besides from distance to distance appendices q, q des- tined to receive the large arms a a. I, Flanges, through which the axis of the shaft L is fixed to the wheel-carriers I'. L', Small wheels which support the carriage on the rails K. /', Wheel-carriers, forked at the two extremities to receive the axles of the small wheels L'. M, M , Figs. 1 and 2, Cog-wheels, set on the front extremity of the axles M" and outside of the frame. m'. Fig. 1, Cog-wheel, set on the shaft M" inside the frame. M" M" Two shafts turning in bearings fixed on the large posts AD, AD' and A C, A C of the frame ; one of these shafts is shown in Fig. 1. ni' Stud-pin crossing the piece I', and supporting the wheel L' which rolls on the rail K. m" Fig. 2, Piece supported also by the stud-pin, m' and to which the endless chain is connected, (Fig. 2). N, Figs. 1 and 2, Handle by means of which the wheel O" Fig. 2, is turned, to move the carriages forward or backward. n, n', n", Bent lever supporting the two cog-wheels O' and O" and supported by the axis pin 0, Fig. 2. 0, Cross-bar (Fig. 2) connecting the sides A C and A D of the frame. 0, Support or axis of the lever n, n', n". O' and O", Two cog-wheels gearing into each other, fixed to the points 7i' and n" of the bent lever n, ??,', n" and moving with it (Fig. 2.) P, Figs. 1 and 2, Two treadles. p, Axis of the treadles P. P' Pulleys fixed on the shaft P" and moving with it. p' Ropes which connect the trea- dles P to the pulleys P'. P" Shaft which carries the pul- leys P'. p" Piece fixed at the extremity of the shaft P" ; it has teeth on f of its circumference, and the other part is prolonged and 32S THE ART OF A\EAVING. has a stud-pin which goes through the forked extremity of the lever n o to make it move, Figs. 1 and 2. Q, Q, Figs. 1, 2 and 6. Large arms of cast iron, which are fixed on tiie shaft or cyUnder L by means of the flange q. q. q. q. Flange intended to support the arms Q,Q. R. Fig. 1, Shaft supported at the under part of the frame by two bearings r' r'. r Sector with teeth, supported on the extremity of the shaft R, and gearing into the pin- ion />". r' r', Bearings fixed on the frame and supporting the shaft R. S, Figs. 1. 2 and 6, Prismatic rule supporting the pincers ; it is fastened between two con- secutive arms Q Q, by means of the ears s' s'. s' s' Ears to wliich the arms Q Q, are bolted. T, Figs. 6. 8. 9 and 10, Under jaw of the pincer. t, Screw intended to fasten it on the prismatic rail. T', Plate pierced by a hole through which the needle goes into the pincer. (Fig. 11). t' Spring intended to press down the upper jaw of the pincer on the needle. U. Fig. 1, Flat shaft supported by the extremity of the arms Q Q ; it is also shown in Figs. 6, 7 and 13. u, Fig. 6, A small fork piece which supports the axis of the shaft U. u', Key pins which keep the axis of the shaft U in its place in the fork pieces u. Y, Upper jaw. V, Ear used to connect, by means of a pin. the upper jaw of the pincer with the under one. (Fig. S). y, Fig. 12, Needle of the full size, ^vith the eye in the middle. U-. Arm at the extremity of the shaft Y. and intended to make the shaft turn at the moment when it leaves it. w', Stud-pin fixed to the frame, and against which the small arm w shdes. Fig. 1). w", Two small arms fixed, one on the upper shaft Y, the other on the under shaft Y' ; the)' are connected by a wire, so that the motion of the shaft Y produces that of the shaft Y'. (see middle of Fig. 1.) X, X, Figs. 1 and 2, Two ver- tical rules with teeth sliding against the arms Q. Q. X, Sectors gearing with the teeth of the rules X and fixed on the flat shaft U with which they turn. (Fig. 2.) .r\ Stud-pins fixed at the bottom of the rules X. Fig's. 1 and 2. Y.Y'.Figs. 1 and 2,^Shafts sup ported by the arms Q, and turning freely. y.'//'. Small perpendicular arms or rods on the ends of shaft Y, Figs. 1 and 2. y". Counterpoise of the arm or rod Y, Figs. 1 and 2. Z Z. Arms fixed on the shaft R ; each being terminated by two forks z z. Fig. 2. one at the right, and the other at the left. z, z'. Forks which terminate the arms Z Z, and which are in- tended to receive the stud-pins :^•' of the toothed rules X X. Xo. 1, Horizontal section of the post A B. seen from above, and also showing the thickness of and the shape of the foot a. No. 2, Section of the rail K. Xo. 3, A view in profile and in front of the pinion p". INSERT FOLDOUT HERE EMBROIDERY. 329 In concluding this part of our subject we cannot but express our admiration of those talents which have overcome difficulties in the construction of machinery, as great as any ever conquered by hu- man skill and perseverance. The embroidering machine is not the only invention which ]Mr. Heilmann has given to the world ; for we find, by referring to the records of the '• Societe Industrielle de Mul- hausen," accounts of several other inventions of his in different branches of manufactures, particularly in power loom weaving ; and among many interesting papers furnished by this gentleman and published in the " Bulletin" of the " Societe," there is a memoir entitled •' Observations Microscopiques sur la forme, la finesse, et la force des filamens de Coton," containing much valuable informa- tion.* Indeed, we may say of Mr. Heilmann what Lord Jeffrey * We extract the following characteristic morceau from page 543 of a book entitled, "Baines's History of the Cotton Manufacture," as a specimen of the envious spirit entertained by Englishmen (especially of the middle class) to- wards the French : — "NOTE Relative to tlie Form of the Fibres of Cotton. By James Thomson, F.R.S. In the first volume of the ' Bulletin de la Societe Industrielle de Mulhau- sen,'' published in 1828, is a memoir, by Mr. Josue Heilmann, entitled ' Obser- vations Microscopiques sur la forme, la finesse, et la force des filamens de Coton,' in which he ascribes lo the fibres of Cotton the same form precisely given to them in the drawing of Mr. Bauer, dated Feb. 11, 1822, which ac- companies my paper ' On Mummy Cloth.' Mr. Heilmarm's ' Observations' are accompginied by a drawing of Mr. Ed- ward Koechlin, of the fibres of cotton. Whoever will take the trouble to compare the two drawings, will detect internal evidence of the one being de- rived from the other. Mr. Heilmann's paper being published in 1828, and mine in 1834, renders some explanation necessary. In 1822 or 1823, Mr. Edward Koechlin was in England, and during a visit he paid to me at Primrose, he saw Mr. Bauer's drawing, and requested per- mission to copy it, which was readily granted. It is from this drawing and Mr. Koechlin's communication, that Mr. Heilmann's ' Observations Micro- scopiques' are derived. The paltry fraud of appropriating to himself the observations of others, without acknowledgment, might have passed unnoticed by me for ever, had not the friends of Mr. Bauer considered this explanation necessary." We have the pleasure of being well acquainted with Mr. Heilmann, and know that he is not only an extremely ingenious man, but also a man of ster- ling honour and strict integrity, and altogether incapable of any thing of this sort. We will venture to assert, that Mr. H. possesses more real inven- tive talent than Mr. Bauer and all his friends put together. Why do no these gentlemen also lay claim to the embroidering machine which we have just described ? Perhaps they invented it too ! 42 330 THE ART OF WEAVING, said of James Watt : — " Independently of his great attainments in mechanics, he is an extraordinary, and, in many respects a wonder ful man ; — possessing infinite quickness of apprehension, a prodi- gious memory, and a certain rectifying and methodizing power of digesting and arranging in its proper place, that which is really valuable in practice, and of casting aside and rejecting, as it were instinctively, whatever is worthless or immaterial."' SECTION NINTH. SPOOLING, WARPING AND SIZING BY POWER. The processes of spooling, warping and sizing having been al- ready thoroughly investigated, as applicable to looms worked by hand (see Section First,) it only remains to show how these various processes may be facilitated, by the application of power instead of manual labour : this subject we shall now endeavour to elucidate. Were we ambitious of confusing the wits of the rabble with very learned dissertations on spooling, warping and sizing, we would call in the aid of that mysterious art, known to patent agents and quack doctors by the cognomen of " 5a2£'-c?ws^m^ ;"* but our object is to diffuse light and not darkness. Fig. 148 represents a common cylindrical shaft, containing 16 drums A, with four spools B B B B, which roll against the drum, by friction of contact ; C C represent cast iron aiches fixed between each pair of drums, and serving to keep the spools in their places * A villainous system of trickery or deception, by which a lie is garnished over and made to appear as truth: it is commonly practised by men of no real inventive talent or capacity ; but whose impudence is their grand substi- tute for genius. Such characters often apply to some dishonest patent-agent, or petty lawyer, whose business it is to assist them in their difficulties ; which he does by drawing out a long windy rigmarole specification of some 5.000 odd words, purposely to work up the invention or inventions of some inge- nious man, under pretence of making improvements thereon ; and then gild- ing the pill over so skilfully in the summing up of the claim, as to be swal- lowed by the public without a shrug ! SPOOLING. 331 (see D D, Fig. 149.) Each spool has suitable iron gudgeons at its ends, serving as an axis on which it revolves (see Fig. 148.) E E are the bobbins from the spinning frame : F F are cylindrical pieces of iron covered with cloth, lying on the moveable rails G G. Pieces Fig. 148. of cloth are also fastened on the rails beneath the cleaners F F, so that the thread passes through between the two plies of cloth, which partly smooth down the fibres, and clean it from any loose specks that may adhere to it ; II are guide pins fastened on the rails G G (Fig. 149.) The pulley J, driven by a band from the cylinder shaft, is connected with a heart motion, which moves the rails G G alternately in a horizontal direction the full length of the spools, and by means of the guide- pins 1 1, causes the yarn to wind on equally from end to end of the spools. Each of the drums A is covered with cloth or leather, and requires to be perfectly true, as otherwise it would give a vibratory motion to the spools while the yarn is winding on. 332 THE ART OF "WEAVING. This machine is extremely light, simple in its construction, and easily kept in order. A machine containing twenty drums may be attended by two girls of twelve years of age, and is capable of winding 3,000 hanks per day of 12^ hours. Instead of winding the yarn ofl' the small bobbins on to others of a larger size, it is common in a number of factories to take the bobbins direct from the spinning frame to the warping machine, which is mounted with a rack or creel suited to the size of the bobbins. This creel, rack, or bobbin frame, is attached to the back of the warping machine, and lies in a horizontal position, but is hollowed in the centre like a cradle : hence it is denominated the cradle warper. The girl who attends this machine stands with her face towards the back of the warper, having the bobbin frame in- tervening ; she thereby has aU the bobbins within her reach, so that whenever she perceives one nearly empty, she is ready to remove it, replace it with a full one, and tie the two ends of the thread, with- out stopping the machine. And owing to the number of bobbins in the frame, and the small quantity of yarn contained on each, they are constantly emptying, while the attendant is constantly supplying their places with full ones ; but in order to prevent them from running out entirely, she requires to take out a considerable number before the yarn is completely wound off. The yarn, there- fore, which is left on the bobbins, if not wound off at some other machine, is liable to be made into waste. Hence the cradle warper has not been generally adopted, as it has been found that the loss from the quantity of waste made by it, is greater tlian tlie expense required for spooling, or winding the yarn from small bobbins on to others of a larger size, suited to the common bobbin frame of a warping machine. The next step preparatory to the operation of weaving is the for- mation of the warp or chain, that is, the longitudinal threads of the web, which he parallel to each other through the breadth of the cloth. The bobbins are transferred to the warping machine ; and though this machine is very simple in its construction, yet it is well worthy our notice. WARPING MACHINE. The species of warping machine which we shall now endeavour to explain is an American invention, and is far superior to those used in Great Britain ; for it has the advantage of being provided with an WARPING. 333 ingenious contrivance by means of which it is instantly stopped on the breaking of a thread. Fig. 150, A A, Figs. 150 and 151, is the framing of the machine, which being constructed of wood, gives it a heavy appearance in the draw- ings ; B Figs. 151 and 153 are the threads proceeding from the bobbin frame to the iron plate C, where each thread is separated ; the plate C being perforated with small holes corresponding to the number of threads to be wound on the beam. Passing the plate C, where all the threads are brought into one horizontal plane, they thence pass over the rods D D : from these through the guide-reed E and on to the beam F, which is represented as containing only the first round of the yarn. The belt pulleys G are on the same shaft with the wheel H, which drives the wheel I ; on the same axis with the wheel I, is the drum J, which drives the yarn beam F. The drum J, on which the yarn beam rests, and by which it is moved, is exactly one yard in circumference, and upon one end of its axis, there is a screw working into small geared wheels con- nected with an index, which indicates the revolutions of the drum during the warping of each beam, from which the length of yarn on each beam is ascertained, and the attendant is paid accordingly. The axis of the yarn beam rests on two slots of the framing at K, and is pressed down upon the drum J, by the stirrup L L, which is also weighted down by the cross lever M. From the top of the 334 THE ART OF WEAVIXG. stiiTup L, an arm N extends to the guide reed E. so that as the yarn fills on the beam F, it gradually rises, and the arm N presses up the guide reed with the same gradual motion, so as to keep it always in a proper position in relation to the increasing diameter of Fig. 151. the yarn beam : O, Fig. 151, is a strap attached to the weight P, and which winds round a small shaft, on the end of w^hich the ratchet wheel Q, is made fast. When the beam is sufficiently full, the strap O is wound up by means of a wrench attached to the ratchet wheel, which thereby lifts the weight P, the lever M and stirrup L, until the hook on the axis of the yarn beam at K, is so far relieved as to be pressed back : the full beam is then removed, and an empty one put in its place — the stirrup is brought forward till the hook is above the axis of the beam — the catch of the ratchet wheel is lifted — the strap unwound — and the machine is then ready to warp another beam. WARPING. 335 From the foregoing description, it will be seen that this warping machine differs very little from those used in Gr«at Britain. It is however in every respect as simple and efficient, besides having the advantage of the stop-motion ; and which will now be described. As the yarn from the bobbin frame enters the plate C, it passes over the rods D D ; but between these rods, there is a drop-wire sus- pended upon each thread : these drop-wires are pieces of flattened steel wire, about four inches long, from -J- to i% broad, and ^^ of an inch thick : their weight varies from 4 grains 4 dwts. to 4 grains 10 dwts. They are hooked at the top, and suspended by their own weight on each thread. (See RRR, front view, Fig. 150, and R, Fig. 153.) When the machine is in operation, the drop-wires are borne up by the tension of the threads, but as soon as any one thread breaks, it slackens, and, of course, the wire drops down till the point of the hook at S, Fig. 154, rests on the plate T T, Fig. 153 ; and it is this dropping down of the wire that stops the ma- chine. The shaft U U extending across the machine, has an ec- centric at V, Figs. 150 and 153, which works into the fork of the lever W W. On the top of the lever W W, there is a small tum- bler X Y X attached to the steel plate Z, Figs. 150 and 153. The lever W W turns upon a journal at A', Figs. 151 and 153 ; and in consequence of the eccentric V working into the fork, the top of the lever, and with it the tumbler X Y X, and the plate Z are made to oscillate under the drop-wires ; so when a thread breaks, the wire drops down, and retards the oscillating motion of the plate Z, which immediately depresses either end of the plate X X of the tumbler, which again presses down the lever B' C at B', and raises the other extremity at C. By hfting the lever at C, the rod D' D', being then disengaged, is operated upon by the spiral spring E', Fig. 150, which causes it to shift so far as to act upon the upright rod F', and turn it round as far as to make the belt lever G', shift the belt from the fast, on to the loose pulley. And as these various parts are fitted so as to operate all at once, the machine upon the break- ing of one thread will be instantly stopped. When the broken threads are all tied, and the machine ready to be put in motion, the girl attending, lays hold of the rail H' H', Fig. 150, and pulls it forward ; I' I' are straps of leather fastened to the wooden frame J' J', containing the drop wires ; therefore, by draw- ing down the rail H' H', the shaft K' K' turns round, and causes the straps L' L', to raise the frame J' J' so far as to hft all the drop-wnres above the top of the plate Z, which keep their places by the tension of the yarn, as soon as the machine gets into full operation. In • 336 THE ART OF WEAVING. lifting the drop- wire frame J' J', it also draws up the point M', of the small lever M' N'. Figs. 151 and 153, which causes the other ex- tremity N', to operate upon an arm of the upright rod F', and turn it round as fast as to let the belt lever G', shift the driving belt from the loose, on to the fast pulley : at the same time another arm O', of the upright rod F', Fig. 151, also operates upon the rod D'D' at P', Fig. 150, and shifts it to the right hand, until the point C of the lever B' C, drops into the square groove seen in Fig. 150 : the lever or catch C, is kept in the groove of the rod D' D', by the small spiral spring Q,'. Thus by pulling forward the rail H' H', the drop- wires are lifted,- and the whole machine is instantly put in operation ; and by lifting the catch C, the rod D' D' being opera- ted upon by the spiral spring E', it is instantly stopped. Figs. 152, 153 & 154. Fig. 154. Drop wire of one fourth the working size. WARPING. 337 Fig. 1.52 is a front view of the guide reed E, seen in Fig. 151, for directing the yarn on the beam F : it consists of a piece of sheet iron cut into a number of shts, corresponding to the number of threads to be warped on the beam. By examining the figure, it will be seen that the slits are so contrived, that a lease may be formed on each beam if necessary. In looking at the representations given of this machine, those un- acquainted with it might be apt to suppose, from the number of levers, springs, (fcc. depending upon each other, that it would work inaccurately, and be difficult to keep in order. This, however, is not the case. The warping machines used in Great Britain require the utmost attention on the part of the attendant to notice instantly when a thread breaks ; as should her eye be diverted from her work but one moment, the end of a broken thread might wind round the beam so far, as to require five minutes or more to find it, and put the machine again in motion. But this is not the case with those used in America ; for while the machine is in operation, the attend- ant is frequently behind the bobbin frame, taking out empty spools, and supplying their places with full ones ; nor could the cradle warpers of America be used, except by being furnished with a self- acting stop-motion. This motion is, therefore, eminently entitled to the appellation of an important labour-saving improvement. The above account of the American spooling and warping ma- chines, is principally abridged from the able descriptions given by James Montgomery, Esq., in his excellent work, entitled, " The Cotton Manufacture of the United States of America contrasted and compared with that of Great Britain." A\ e close this part of our subject with a remark or two regarding the warping and beaming of silk webs : — 1st. In warping silk weljs where the warp is to consist of differ- ent grists or colours of yarn, as in stripes, ginghams, pullicates, &c., the bobbins must be arranged in the creel or bank agreeably to the order in which they are indicated in the draught or design. 2d. A silk warp to make taffeta, must not be put on the same roller or beam with one to make gros de Tours serge, satin, (fee, but each must have a separate and distinct roller for itself; and they must be weighted according to the nature of the texture to be pro- duced. 3d. A warp making the same pattern in several places in the web, but double-threaded in one place and single in another, must not be all put on the same roller or beam ; because, the different 43 33S THE ART OF WEAVING. parts would not work equally tight in the weaving, as the double- threaded part would be much larger on the roller than the single. SIZING. Since the invention of the common dressing or sizing machine, in 1802, by Mr. Thomas Johnson, an ingenious mechanic of Bred- bury, a great many different contrivances have been tried to facili- tate the operation of sizing ; but most of them have sunk into ob- livion. It will be our object, in this place, to describe only those which are likely to prove beneficial to the manufacturer. The first of these which we shall consider; is of the invention of Mr. John Potter, of Manchester ; and tlie second, of Messrs. Hornby and Kennyworthy, manufacturers, Blackburn. Mr. Potter's improvements in the process of preparing warps for the loom, consist ; firstly, — In certain variations in the construction of the ordinary dressing machine, by means of which, the manu- facturer is enabled to dress warps which have previously undergone the process of sizing,* so as to produce a warp more capable of enduring the subsequent friction in the process of weaving ; and, secondly. In the construction and arrangement of a new machine for the purpose of producing a warp of greater length, and thereby obviating the necessity of joining or twisting in the warp so fre- quently as is the case when a warp of the ordinary length is used. The same letters and figures of reference indicate the same parts throughout. Fig. 1, Plate 3, represents a side elevation of a dressing machine to which part of these improvements is applied ; and Fig. 2, is a plan of the same. In operating with this machine, it is usual to place the yarn on six or eight beams, from which it is drawn off and combined in the process of dressing to form the warp ; but in Mr. P's machine, the warp, in a ball (as taken from the drying house,) is placed at the point A, and the end of the warp, in a sized state, * The common sizing machine consists of a trough filled with size, through which the warp is drawn ; but instead of passing the warp simply through the size, it is made to pass under and over a series of rollers, having suit- able gudgeons and bearings at their ends, rotary motion being conmiuni- cated by the friction of the traveUing warp as it is drawn away from them. Atlter having passed this series of rollers, the warp is squeezed between two large wooden rollers or cylinders, which expel the superfluous moisture. It is then passed over the cylinders of a common drying machine, similar to those u.*ed by calico printers, when it is finished. INSERT FOLDOUT HERE SIZING. 339 is carried over the rest or guide B, and between the pressing rollers C and D, thence round the stud E, and back under the roller D, passing again between the pressing rollers C and D, and over the upper surface of the roller C. From this point it is carried forward over the rollers F, G and H, till it arrives at the horizontal position, ■where it is traversed in the direction of the arrow through the ravel H', suspended from above, so as to yield to any impediment which may arise in the warp, and forward, between the stiffening rollers I I, whence it proceeds under the brushes K, and is taken up on the warping beam of the loom, as in the ordinary dressing ma- chine. M, is the driving pulley, and motion is imparted to the va- rious parts in the common way. Now it is well known to weavers and persons conversant with the preparation of warps for the loom, that the adhesion of various threads of sized warp, would cause great difficulty in passing it through this machine with any degree of regularity. To obviate this difficulty and separate every thread, two rods L L, are passed through the openings of the lease which has been secured at the warping machine, as best seen at Fig. 1. These rods LL, are attached to the shaft or rod M', (see Fig. 2,) through which they receive an alternating motion from the arm N, which is vibrated by the connecting rod O, driven from an eccentric on the face-plate P, as seen in Fig. 1, where the varying position of the rods L, will be seen dividing the threads or ends of the warp in its progress towards the rollers 1 1. In Fig. 4, the process of open- ing or separating each thread of the warp is effected by means of the two blades Q. Q,, which move on centres at their respective ex- tremities, and are vibrated by the arms N N, as in Figs. 1 and 3. The warp in a sized state, being placed on the beam R (Fig. 3) in the ordinary manner, practised with sized warps and held back by the friction strap and weight R' and R'^, which gives off the warp at a proper tension as the dressing proceeds. The vibrations of the rods L L (Figs. 1 and 2) and the blades Q, Q (Fig. 4) in these ma- chines depend on the revolution of the eccentric P (Fig. 4,) which may be driven at a speed of 210 revolutions per minute ; but the speed may be varied according to the nature of the work in the machine. Fig. 5, represents an elevation ; Fig. 6, a plan ; and Fig. 7, a side view of a machine for forming the warp on a beam previous to the sizing process. In this machine, S (Figs. 5 and 6) represents a cone drum, which is driven by means of a strap, the velocity vary- ing according to the diameter on which the strap is placed. On the extremity of the shaft on which the cone S is fixed, is attached a 340 THE ART OF WEAVING. spur-wheel T (Figs. 5 and 6,) which drives the spur-wheel U, fixed on the end of the shaft V, carrpng a succession of small beams W, divided by the flanges. On to these beams W, the warp is received from the heck X, as seen at Fig. 5, and regularly distributed by means of a small ravel X', which is traversed by a worm and worm-wheel, as shown in Fig. 6, and in side view at Fig. 7, where the direction of the yarn will be seen passing over the guide roller X**, and under the roller X^, and thence to the beam W (Fig. 7.) at the same time that it is compressed into a hard state by the cylinder Y, which acts as a pressing roller during the operation. This pressing roller Y, along with the arms in which it is supported, move freely on the rod Z Z (Figs. 5 and 6.) so that as soon as the first small beam W, is full, the operator raises the presser Y, and passes it forward to the next, aad so on till the whole series of beams W, are filled and equally pressed, at the same time securing a lease in the yarn of each beam, as already alluded to, for the action of the rods L L, or Q. Q, in the dressing machine. It will be also remarked that the heck X, is moved in the frame in which it is supported, so as at all times to correspond with the position of the presser Y, when placed on any of the various beams W, in the pro- cess of fining. Returning to the cone shaft which carries the wheel T, will be seen a small worm a, driving a worm-wheel on the up- right shaft b (Fig. 5,) which is also provided with a worm driving a worm-wheel on the horizontal recording shaft c. This shaft c, car- ries two circular discs d and e, the position of which will be seen ia Fig. 6. The disc d, is provided with a small lever which rests upon it during the winding process of the cone S, and the speed of the disc d, is so calculated as to make one revolution during the winding on, or filling one of the beams W, with warp, but when that is effected a notch or gap in the disc d, allows the lever f, to fall by means of the weight /' (Fig. 5) which tightening a strap- break on the pulley g; placed on the cone shaft, arrests the revolu- tion, and thereby distributes an equal quantity of warp on the va- rious beams W, as they are filled in succession. The disc e, is pro- vided with a series of notches or gaps, and supports a lever h, which acts on the marking rod ?', by means of a spring o. placed on the perpendicular rod by which the weight m, is supported (see Fig. 6.) The extremity of the opposite arm of the rod i, passes under the edge of the warp, and is provided with fibrous material, saturated with marking ink which marks the warp every time the lever h, is allowed to fall into one of the notches in the disc e 'see Fig. 5.) into which it is forced by the weight m, at the same time the marking SIZING. 341 rod i, having made the mark, is replaced in its former position on a stud or rest, by the action of a spiral spring o (Fig. 5,) the mark on the warp, indicating a uniform and equal amount of warp placed on the beam W. The distance of the notches on the disc e (Fig. 5,) are calculated to compensate for the increasing diameter of the warp on the beam W, during the filling process. The varying taking up of the warp on to these beams W, according to their increased cir- cumference, is compensated for by traversing the driving strap to a larger diaineter of the cone S (Figs. 5 and 6,) and the velocity must depend on the nature of the work and the judgment of the opera- tor. By tracing the action of this warping machine, it will be obvi- ous that the beams W, may be multiplied to any convenient extent, and consequently the length of the warp, which necessarily effects a great saving in joining or twisting in, as practised in the ordinary warp. In Fig. 6, it will easily be perceived, that motion is transferred from the cone drum S, to the yarn beams W, by the spur wheels T and U. The notched disc e, is left out in the plan view (Fig. 6,) to avoid confusion, and more clearly to show the levers e' and d, weight m, and marker i. Should the marking apparatus shown in Figs. 5 and 6, be considered too complicated, one of those in com- mon use may be easily substituted in stead. We now pass on to describe Messrs. Hornby and Kennyvvorthy's machine for sizing and preparing warps for the loom ; which, from its neatness, the regularity of its motions and the work Avhich it is capable of performing, is well worth}'^ our attention in this place. The improvements in this machine, consist in a novel and parti- cular arrangement of mechanism for sizing and preparing warps from " beam or machine warping." The principal feature of novelty and improvement in Messrs. H. and K's. method of sizing or dressing warps, consists in a pecuhar mode of distributing or laying out of the threads, so that they shall be dressed or sized in parallel strips or breadths, laid in even and close contact, side by side, and usually termed " beers or half beers" in the ordinary warping mill. (See common warping mill. Section First.) This new method of dividing and laying out the warp threads into strips, bands, or beers and half beers, during the process of sizing and preparing them for the loom, possesses many advan- tages, which will be evident to persons conversant with the ordinary modes of conducting such operations. As the threads are divided into certain numbers, forming a beer or half beer, and in that 34'^ THE ART OF WEAVIXG. breadth passed through the sizing substance, tney retain the form of bands or strips, and are sUghtly attached to each other by the adhesion of the size, thus forming narrow tapes or breadths of warp threads, and consequently rendering them more tenacious than if passed through the sizing and preparing process in single threads, as commonly done, and allowing them to be more easily conducted through the machinery. The warps may be thus extended to a much greater length than usual, and the process of taking the " lease'' and winding on to the warp beam ready for '• looming," can be effected by the arrangement of one and the same machine, with more expedition than by the ordinary method now in use. One of tlie improvements connected with the working of the ma- chinery, is a new arrangement of the headles for obtaining the lease or cross shed of the warps, previously to the dressing, sizing, or drying of the same, that is placing the lieadles, for dividing the shed of the warps, at the entrance end of the machine, or at the commencement of the operation ; and the further improvements in the machinery for sizing and preparing warps, consist in a novel forin of ravel or comb, for allowing the lease band to pass through the warps without the necessity of having the whole of the half beers or breadth relaid each time of taking such lease or cross shed ; and also in the application of a revolving self-acting Tnarker, for marking off any required length of warps, as they are wound on to the warp beam, ready for looming. In Plate IV, Fig. 1 represents a plan or horizontal view of the machinery in which these improvements are shown ; Fig. 2. is a side elevation ; and Fig. 3. a vertical section of the same, taken lon- gitudinally through the middle of the machine. The main and side framings of the machinery are shown at a, a, a, a, which sup- port the beams of warp or yarn b, ^, b, b, b, previously wound and prepared by the warping machine : these main side frames also support the various ravels or combs, headles. sizing or dressing trough, the drying cylinders, tension and guide rollers, and also the driving apparatus for giving motion to the mechanism. It %vill be perceived; that as the unsized warps proceed from their respective beams b, b, b. b, b, they are guided on to, and passed through an ordinary ravel or comb c, c, and thus divided equally, prior to their being passed through the headles d. d, situated at the entrance of the machine, for the purpose of effecting the cross shed, and thereby taking the lease previously to the yarns being submit- ted to the sizing process. The lease now being taken, and the cross band or threads introduced, for the purpose of looming or drawing SIZING. 343 in of the warp through the headles, as is well understood, the yarns or warps are passed through a ravel or comb e, (see Figs. 1 and 2,) formed by a rack of teeth or pins and intervening spaces, for the purpose of dividing and laying the warps in parallel breadths, side by side, and forming each division, strip or band of warps, (of any required number,) into separate and distinct tapes or sheets, (of any desired width,) each thread being laid parallel, side by side ; and thus, in close lateral contact, the ravel or comb e, either being al- lowed to vibrate or oscillate freely as the warps proceed over it, or it may be caused to revolve, if found more desirable. The continuous warps being thus made or separated into breadths or bands A, are now passed over a conducting roller, and immersed into the trough or vessel / (see Fig. 3,) which contains the sizing material, and is to be kept in a heated state, by steam passing through the pipe g, g, or otherwise, and thus boiled into the warps as they pass through it, and under the tension rollers h, h, (see Figs. 1 and 3) : it will be observed that these tension rollers h, h, may be adjusted to any degree of tension, or raised up entirely out of the troughs, to be cleaned or otherwise, by turning the winch handle 11 (see Figs. 1 and 2.) which, by means of the worms and wheels 12, and pinions 13, 13, take into the racks 14, 14, in connection with whicli the pivots of the rollers h, h, are mounted. The warps are then to be passed forward through a pair of squeezing rollers, i, i, (Figs. 2 and 3) and again immersed in the trough or vessel j (see Fig. 3,) containing a similar sizing preparation, to finish the yarns ; fi-om thence the warp is passed around the drying cyUnders k, k, (Figs. 2 and 3) also heated by steam through the pipe g, and dis- charged by the pipes /, I, or by any other convenient means. The yarn or warps, as they pass around these drying cylinders, will now be found to assume the form of tapes or bands, as the sizing mate- rial will cause the parallel threads, as they lay side by side, to ad- here slightly together, and thus proceed in a tape-Uke form, being of course much stronger, more regular, and less likely to be broken or disarranged, than in the ordinary mode of sizing. A brush 15 (Figs. 1, 2 and 3,) is placed over the yarns as they proceed over the cylinders k, for the purpose of dressing and laying the fibres of the threads, and making the tapes or bands more com- pact and even : it is caused to revolve very slowly by means of the small band 16 (Fig. 2,) proceeding upon the axis of the guide roller m, (Figs. 1 and 2 ;) the warps now proceed in a sized, dried, and finished state, conducted by the rollers m.v}, through a similar ravel or comb ii, w, (Figs. 1 and 2,) but of a finer rake or pitch 344 THE ART OF WEAVING. than the ravel e, c, and by passing through or over which, the strips or bands are turned edgewise, and again similarly dividing by the oscillating or vibratory action of this comb n, 7i, and laid over the tension roller o, o, (Figs. 1, 2 and 3,) in a proper state to be received and wound upon the warp beam p, ready to be removed and taken to the loomer or drawer in. The continuous operation of the ma- chinery is effected by means of a strap passing around the driving pulley q, (see Figs. 1, 2 and 3,) upon the end of the transverse shaft r (Fig. 1,) being traversed from the loose pulley by the setting on rod s. Upon the shaft r, is also a conical drum t, having a driv- ing strap passing around it, and the corresponding cone ii, (Figs. 1 and 2,) mounted also upon a transverse shaft v, at one end of which there is a toothed pinion w, (Fig. 1,) driving the train of spur wheels .T; y, z, which gives rotary motion to the warp beam ]), causing it to wind on the yarn or warps as required. The yarn is kept dis- tended and even, by means of weighted friction bands being passed around the ends of the warp beams b, b, and the pressure of the squeezers or pressor rollers, is similarly adjusted, by means of the weighted lever 2 (Fig. 2.) The self-acting marking appara- tus is shown in Fig, 1 ; upon the end of the revolving guide roller o, o, is a small worm 3, taking into a worm wheel upon the end of the shaft 4, at the reverse end of which is the mitre wheel 5, driving a corresponding wheel 6, upon the small shaft 7, which carries the revolving marker 8, which from time to time dips into a colour box, and marks the warp threads with a patch of colour as it revolves, any length for the pieces intended to be woven, and allowing the warp beam to contain accurate lengths, without waste in the looming. In the detached Figs. 4, 5 and 6, are shown three varieties of the improved ravel or comb, (upon a large scale,) for dividing or separa- ting the warp, as they pass through the machine. Fig. 4 shows one description, being that preferred to be used with a pendulous or oscillating motion ; Fig. 5, another, which is preferred to be used as a rotary comb, and it will be perceived, that one set or rake of teeth will always be entering and dividing the warps, as those on the op- posite leave them ; Fig. 6 shows another modification of the same, which may either be used with a rotary or any other required motion. If our manufacturing friends shall derive any real benefit from the description just given of these improved machines for preparing warps for the loom, we will not grudge the expense incnired on our part in rendering all the particulars as plain as possible. INSERT FOLDOUT HERE SECTION TENTH. PLAIN WEAVING BY POWER. Now the steam begins to blow ; Girl, haste, your loom attend ; Do not always be so slow, Or your web will have no end. Stay no longer idly singing : You're a pretty girl, indeed ! Hark ! the factory bell is ringing ! Mary, to your loom with speed ! See the shafts begin to move, Driven by the power of steam ; Wheels below and wheels above Turn correctly every beam. Force is constantly supplied, Brought by straps of leather strong ; Levers play on every side, While the shuttle shoots along. See how fast the lay is driven; See the treadles sink and rise; See how well the cloth is woven ; Gracious ! how the shuttle flies ! Brien Dhd O'Fahrell. We shall not in this place give any repetition of the old hacknied story regarding the origin of the power loom (in Europe),* by Mr. Edmund Cartwaight, of Marnham, Nottinghajiishire ; and for which he obtained a patent, bearing date 4th April, 1785. It is certain that this machine would have long since passed into oblivion, had it not been for the improvements made upon it by other men of genius. It was not until the year ISOl that power loom weav- ing began to be extensively introduced for the manufacture of plain goods ; and not until the years 1830 to 1834 that it was successfully applied to Ught fancy fabrics, with small patterns, (say, of from 10 to * For the true origin of power loom weaving (plain, tweeled and figured, of every description) see introduction to this work, page 5, 20 to 37, and 64. 44 346 THE ART CF WEAVING. 75 changes of design.) Since 1834, it has been still further im- proved by various ingenious individuals, both in Europe and Ameri- ca, so as to make it available in tlie manufacture of almost every description of figured textures, whether of cotton, silk, linen or wool. In the present section, we shall confine ourself to laying before our readers its application to the weaving of plain fabrics. Fig, 155. Fig. 155 shows a side view in elevation of the power loom, as constructed by Messrs. Sharp, Roberts &. Co., Manchester ; but as their machine contauis no particular feature of novelty, we shall not waste much time upon it. Fig. 156 is a section of the same taken through the centre, showing the interior working parts of the ma- chine. A is the frame work of the loom ; B, belt pulleys (Fig. 155 ;) C, fly wheel for equalizing irregularities of motion during the working of the machine : D (Fig. 156,) driving spur-wheel, fixed on the PLAIN WEAVING. 347 crank shaft E, and gearing into the wheel F ; this wheel F, has double the number of teeth of the spur wheel D, and consequently makes only half as many revolutions : it is keyed, or made fast, on the end of the cam shaft G ; and it is by means of this shaft, in connexion with suitable tappets and levers, that motion is commu- nicated to the headles for the purpose of shedding the warp, as well as for giving motion to the shuttle. The cranks of the driving shaft are connected to the swords of the lay by arms H (see Fig. 155.) The cams J J, give motion to the treadles K K, which work the headles J J, as will be seen very plainly in Fig. 156. The yarn beam is Pig. 156. weighted in the ordinary manner used for coarse goods, namely, by passing a rope round the circumference of each end, to which rope a jfriction weight M, is attached. The cloth roller and take-up motion (as any practical manufacturer will perceive) possess no feature of novelty, consisting merely of a spur wheel N, working into a pinion 348 THE ART OF -WEAVING. O, which pinion is made fast to the ratchet wheel P, and this wheel receives motion from the chcks or drivers Q, by means of the arm R, this arm receiving motion from the stud-pin S, fixed in the sword of the lay L. The shuttle is thrown by means of two levers T (one of which is seen in Fig. 155 and the other in Fig. 156,) connected at bottom with the horizontal shafts V. motion being communicated to these shafts by a wiper V, working against the iron shoe or slide W, (see Fig. 155.) The shoes or shdes W, are bolted to the side of the horizontal shafts U (one at each side of the machine) at X. The picker staves or levers T, are recovered to tlieir original positions, alternately, after having thrown the shuttle through the shed, by means of a leather strap and spiral spring ^ hich con- nects the horizontal shafts U U, together across the machine ; the position of one end of this leather strap, as bolted to the horizontal shaft U, will be seen at Y, in both Figs. The shaft U, has suitable bearings at each end, which are indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 155, and at Z. Fig. 156. The protector A'^, as seen in both these Figs, is of the ordinary construction. This form of the power loom being unworthy of further notice, we shall, therefore, pass on to de- scribe others of greater merit proceeding gradually until we arrive at the most perfect. Fig. 157. PLAIN WEAVING. 349 Figs. 157, 158, 159 and 160, show the different parts of a loom, as improved by Messrs. Apelles Howard, of Stockport, and John Scattergood, of Manchester. Fig. 157 is a back view of the common loom ; Fig. 158, a side view, in which part of the framing is removed for the purpose of making the application of the improvements more obvious ; and Fig. 159, a view of the improvements apart from the loom, for the pur- pose of showing more clearly the nature and construction of the same. In Figs. 157 and 158, some of the ordinary parts of the loom are omitted, and only such parts delineated as we consider re- quisite to explain and show the position in which the improvements are applied. In Fig. 157, A, represents the driving pulley keyed on the crank shaft, which gives motion to the lay ; B, the yarn beam ; D, Fig. 158, the cloth roller ; and C, the tappet shaft by which the position of the headles is regulated, thereby producing the shed or opening in the warp for the passage of the shuttle at each vibration of the lay. In Figs. 157 and 158, E represents a shaft Fig. 158. supported at each side of the loom, parallel to, and immediately above the yarn beam B : on this shaft is made fast two arms F, and F'. The extremity of the arm F, carries a shaft G, similar to that marked E, and crossing the loom in the same way : the shaft E 350 THE ART OF WEAVING. moves freely on its axis. The direction of the warp threads from the yarn beam B, will be seen in Figs. 158, 159 and 160, proceed- ing first over the shaft or roller G, and under the shaft E. To the arm F', is suspended a small lever or rod which supports the weight H, as best seen in Figs. 158 and 159 ; this arm also carries a per- pendicular rod i L which moves freely through an opening or hole in the lever K. beneath (Figs. 157 and 158.) L. represents a worm- wheel attached on the axis of the yarn beam B ; and m, a worm or screw taking into the wheel L (Figs. 157 and 158.) On the same shaft which carries the worm or screw 7n, is placed or keyed the ratchet wheel M, and also the vibrating lever K, which is not keyed but perfectly free, shding in a suitable slot. The lever K, is provided with a catch or dog q, taking into the ratchet wheel M, (Fig. 157.) and at the other extremity with a rod suspending the counter weight N, as seen in Fig. 158. By retracing the action of the various parts which we have last described, it ^ill be obvious that any amount of warp can be given off by revolving the yarn beam B, by means of the worm m, in one direction, while it will be taken up : or. the reverse will be produced b}' the opposite motion of the worm rn ; and further, that the position of the shaft G, will vary or vibrate according as the warp is taken up. or given off by the yarn beam B. Suppose, for example, the warp to be wound up to a given point, by means of the small handle o, the shaft G, will assume a certain position, and the amount of tension to which the warp is subjected will depend upon the amount of counter weight H, which has a constant tendency to elevate the shaft G, as best shown at Figs. 158 and 159. Under these circumstances, as soon Fig. 160. as the loom is put into action and the regular vibration of the lay proceeds, the cloth which is produced will be taken up on the cloth roller D, and consequently the warp which passes PLAIN WEAVING. 351 over the shaft G, will have a tendency to depress that shaft, although the tension will not materially vary, on account of the counter weight H, always remaining the same. But as soon as the take-up of the cloth roller has proceeded so far as to depress the shaft G, to the position indicated by the letter g^ (Fig. 159) the rod t, I, elevates the lever K, which is connected to the catch or dog q (Fig. 157,) and thereby gathers a tooth in the ratchet M, which, on the return of the lay, is carried forward by the coun- ter weight N, and actuates the yarn beam B, which gives off the amount of warp required. This train of movement is shown sepa- rate in Fig. 159 ; by which, together with the foregoing description, it will be obvious that the regular take-up of the cloth on the roller D, as it is produced, is provided for by a commensurate giving off of warp from the beam B, caused by the depression or varied position of the shaft G, as already explained. In weaving cloth of a fine quaUty, the arrangement represented at Fig. 160 will act rather more uniformly than that already described. In this figure, the ar- rangement of parts does not vary from that already stated, except- ing that in the place of the weight N, and vibrating lever K, the catch or dog q, is placed on a stationary fulcrum x^ and the rod ?, i, is carried downwards and attached by a small spring to the lever y, which moves freely on a fixed fulcrum at z. This lever y, is placed under the tappet shaft C, and when a sufiicient quantity of yarn is given off from the beam B, the small wiper r, does not interfere with it, but as soon as the rod G, is depressed by the tight- ening of the warp, as already described, the lever y, is raised and comes in contact with the wiper r, which immediately depresses it, and rotates the ratchet wheel M, by means of the band and tight- ening weight S, with which it is connected ; this band being passed round the small drum or barrel placed on the same shaft that sup- ports the ratchet M. The shafts G, and E, should be well polished, so that the wai-p yarn, in passing under and over them, may not be chafed. This contrivance, for giving off warp yarn and actuating the taking- up of the cloth, does not possess any particular feature of novelty which we can recommend, in a practical point of view, to the cotton manufacturer. For the manufacture of silk goods the shafts G, and E, might be used with advantage, provided that another shaft, similar to that marked G, was inserted at the point of the arm F', cutting away the connecting rod i i, and all the other parts of the apparatus shown in the Figs. These three shafts, acting on the warp threads, would keep them 352 THE ART OP WEAVING. equally tight on both sides of the shed ; which will be obvious after a word of explanation. Suppose, for example, that the warp, in coming from the beam B, is passed over the shaft G, under the shaft E, and over that fixed at the point F', and from thence into the headles ; it is evi- dent, that while the shed is forming, the rollers at the extremities of the arms F, and F', will be raised or depressed in proportion to the strain caused by the shedding of the warp, the vibratory action al- ways compensating by yielding at the point where the greatest strain is caused, that is to say, when the shed is full open, as shown in the Figs., and acting as a distender on the warp in pro- portion as the shed closes after the passage of the shuttle (taking up the slack.) Looms mounted with this contrivance, in connec- tion with the vibrating reed take-up motion, shown at Fig. 169, would, we have no doubt, be found advantageous in weaving delicate yarns. (See Figs. 219 and 220.) "Nature in her productions slow, aspires By just degrees to reach perfection's height : So mimic art works leisurely, till time Improve the price, or wise experience give The proper finishing." Manufacturers have, as is well known, experienced great inconve- nience in regulating the relative motions of the yarn and cloth rol- lers in the loom ; and although many attempts have been made to remedy this evil, yet for the most part they have totally failed in accomplishing the desired object. The few that have partially suc- ceeded, have been attended with so much expense as to prevent their coming into general use. The improvement now offered is such that it can be added to power looms of all descriptions at a very trifling expense, and we think will completely remedy the evil, at least so far as cotton stuffs are concerned. If found available we shall be glad, as it first originated with us in the year 1835, but a patent for which was granted to Mr. Edwin Bottomley, of South Crossland, in the parish of Almonbury, county of York, clothier, bearing date Sept. 30th, 1838, prior to which date we tested the in- vention for over two years at M. Phihppe's machine shop, 19 Rue Chateau Landon, Paris, France. In these drawings the same letters of reference indicate the same parts. Fig. 161, represents a back elevation of a loom of the ordinary construction, to which the improvements are apphed ; Fig. 162, is PLAIN WEAVING. 353 a side view of the same ; Fig. 163, is a plan of the improved me- chanism, and Fig. 164, a side view of it. Fiff. 161. The yarn beam A, is placed in the nsual position, and contains the warp which passes over the roller B : after the warp is woven it passes over the breast beam C (Fig. 162) and is taken upon the cloth roller D. On the shaft E (Fig. 163) is placed a cylindri- cal eccentric F F, which imparts alternating movement to the forked piece G G. This forked piece G G, embraces the eccentric F F ; and its arm or connecting bar is provided with a slot through which one of the arms of the bell-crank lever H H, passes (Fig. 163.) To the opposite arm of the Ijell-crank lever H H, is attached the connecting rod I ; and this rod communicates motion to the lever J, which vibrates on the centre of the upright shaft K. The lever J, is furnished with a small stud or pin in which the pinion L, and also the ratchet wheel M, revolve ; these wheels, being connected with each other, the small pinion L, is geared into the spur-wheel N (Fig. 163,) fixed to the shaft K (see Fig. 161.) To this shaft is also keyed the worm O, which actuates the worm-wheel P, and conse- quently the yarn beam A, on the axis of which the worm-wheel P, 45 354 THE ART OF AVEAVING. is placed. Thus the rotation of the shaft E, imparts to the yam beam a giving off motion, in a ratio corresponding with the number of vibrations of the lay : but it is obvious that a greater length of warp yarn would be given off the larger diameter of a full beam than where the diameter is reduced : hence it is required that the yarn beam increase its speed of rotation as the diameter becomes less, thereby insuring an equal quantity of warp given off at each beat of the reed against the cloth, whatever may be the diameter of the yarn beam. We shall now proceed to describe how the required increase of speed to the yarn beam A. is effected. A small roller of wood or other suitable material Q, is supported, as shown in Fig. 161, by a sliding-piece R. moving freely in a slot in the frame-work of the loom, as shown in Figs. 161, 163 and 164 : fixed to this support, is a rack continuing downwards and working into the pinion S, (Fig. 163) at the opposite extremity of which is another pinion T, (Fig. 161) working into the rack attached to the sliding carriage U. On the shaft R, (Figs. 162, 163 and 164) is a small pulley provided with a cord, to which is suspended a weight, for the purpose of PLAIN WEAVING. 355 keeping the roller Q,, constantly pressing against the under side of the yarn, as shown in Fig. 161. By this contrivance, the reduc- tion in the diameter of the warp on the yarn beam, as it is con- sumed in the weaving process, allows the roller Q, to rise, which conveys a traverse motion to the carriage U, in the direction of the Ficr. 103 arrow, Fig. 163, and brings it nearer to the centre or fulcrum of the bell-crank lever H H, which has the effect of increasing the range or space through which the opposite arm of the lever vibrates, and thus producing an increased vibration in the lever J, by means of the connecting rod I, which by means of the dog or catch V, (Fig. 163) gathers more teeth in the ratchet wheel M, and conse- quently increases the speed of revolution of the yarn beam A, there- by compensating for the decreased diameter, as already explained, and thus an equal and uniform delivery is effected during the whole of the weaving process, without reference to the length of the warp that may be rolled on the yarn beam. On the arm of the bell- Fig. 164. 356 THE ART OF WEAVING. crank lever HH, to which the connecting rod I, is attached, will be seen a series of small holes, and it is by connecting the rod I, to any one of these holes, either nearer or further from tiie fulcrum of the bell-crank lever H H, that the amount of vibration of the take-up lever J, is determined, and either greater or less amount of warp yarn is delivered from the beam after each vibration of the lay, ac- cording to the nature of the fabric to be woven. From the foregoing explanation, any practical power loom weaver will have no difficulty in comprehending the improvement. Figs. 165, 166, 167 and 168, represent an improved power loom for weaving light textures, invented by Araassa Stone, an extremely ingenious mechanic of Johnstone, Rhode Island. By means of this improvement, whenever, from the accidental breaking or non- delivery of the weft, the striking up of the reed meets with little or no resistance, the delivery of the warp, and also the taking-up of the cloth, is suspended, although the general evolutions of the loom continue. Fiff. 165. Z^ Fig. 165, is a side view of the loom, with the novel parts at- tached, and in working order ; Fig. 166, is a profile representation of the same, showing particularly the novel parts ; Fig. 167, is a vertical section, taken through the loom at right angles to Fig. 165, PLAIN WEAVING. 357 in the line looking toward the cloth beam ; Fig. 168, is a vertical section, also at right angles to Fig. 165, in the line looking in the opposite direction, that is, toward the warp beam ; and No. 30, Fig. 167, is a horizontal view of a portion of the lay of the loom, taken at that end where the improved parts are connected ; the respective letters of reference pointing out the same parts in all the figures. The yarn beam A, is mounted on the side framing of the loom in the usual way. From this beam the warp threads pass over a whip roller B, above, and thence through the headles C, C, and reed D, in the ordinary way. The reed is mounted in the lay in a frame, which is capable of vibrating on pivots or centres, for the purpose of allowing the reed to fall back when it strikes forcibly against the weft thread in beating up. The cloth produced by the intervention of the warp and weft threads in the front of the reed, passes over the breast beam E, to the cloth roller F, and is wound upon a loose roller G, by the friction of their surfaces. The crank or driving shaft H, by which the working parts of the loom are driven, is connected by the crank rods 1 1, to the back part of the lay ; and hence, as the crank shaft rotates, the latter is made to vibrate in the usual way ; and by the ordinary connexion of toothed wheels, the tappet shaft K, is also driven, which works the headles C C, that open the sheds of the warp, and also the picker staves L L, that drive the shuttle to and fro. Fiff. 16G. b; ; ) A*. -..J...' : ! V 358 THE ART OF WEAVING. In the representation of the back of the lay at Fig. 167, it will be perceived that the reed D, is fixed in a frame M M ; which frame is mounted in the lay, and held by pivots on studs N N, bolted to the upper parts of the swords of the lay. Upon these studs or pivots N. the reed, with its frame, is enabled to swing back- ward, but it is confined in its situation by powerful springs O O, secured to the back of the lay, the ends of these springs pressing against the lower rail of the reed frame. The tension of these springs may be tempered by the adjustable staples and screws P P. These parts of the loom are described for the purpose of leading to, and more readily illustrating the design and operation of the pre- sent improvement. A perpendicular lever Q, is attached to the side of one of the swords of the lay by means of a fulcrum stud R, projecting from a bracket bolted to the sword. The upper end of this lever bears against the bottom rail of the back of the reed frame M, and is held there by a shght spring (see Fig. 167.) The lower part of this frame is attached by an axle joint to a horizontal rod S. That end of the rod S, to which the lever Q,, is connected, is bent downward, as shown in Fig. 166, for the purpose of enabling the rod to pass over the rocker at bottom of the sword, which the lay vibrates upon. The joint connecting the end of the lever Q, and rod S, must be brought as nearly in coincidence with the axle of the lay as may be found practicable. Fig. 167. Xo. 30. PLAIN WEAVING. 359 At the back part of the loom there is a perpendicular shaft T, supported in brackets bolted to the side frame or standard. Upon the upper part of this shaft is fixed an endless screw or worm taking into the teeth of a wheel on the yarn beam ; by the rotation of which worm the beam is turned, and made to deliver the warp. A ratchet wheel U, is made fast by a bolt to the perpendicular shaft T, near its lower end ; and below this a cylindrical piece or collar y, is loosely fitted upon the shaft, and held up by a pin. Fiff. 163. From this side of the collar V, a small arm extends, carrying an upright stud, which passes through an eye at the back end of the horizontal rod S, for the purpose of forming a jointed support to that end of the rod. At a short distance from this joint, a standard W, is fixed into the horizontal rod, carrying a click or tooth, the point of which drops into the teeth of the ratchet wheel. This tooth is the driver that gives rotary movement to the ratchet wheel U, and shaft T. A bent arm X, is aflfixed by bolts to the horizontal rod S, the ele- vated end of which arm being struck by the sword when the lay falls back, gives a sliding movement to tlie rod S, and thereby causes the click W, to drive the ratchet wheel U. Below the endless screw on the perpendicular shaft T, another ratchet wheel Y, is fixed, corresponding in the number of its teeth with the ratchet wheel U. This ratchet wheel acts upon a tooth at the end of the shorter arm of a bent lever Z, Z, suspend- ed on a pivot or stud in a bracket attached to the side frame. At 360 THE ART OF WEAVING. the reverse end, that is, near the extremity of the longer arm of this bent lever Z, a tappet pin is fixed, for the purpose of raising the arm of the ordinary taking up lever, which works the click or dri- ver of the ratchet connected with the ordinary train of toothed gear, for taking up or winding the cloth upon the beam in front, as usual. After every flight of the shuttle through the open shed or warp, the lay advances for the purpose of causing the reed to beat up the weft thread ; but as it is mounted in a vibrating frame M, the force with which it strikes against the cloth causes the lower rail of the reed frame to recede or swing back from the lay a short distance, as shown in the section Fig. 166. As the upper end of the perpendicular lever Q, bears against the lower rail of the reed frame whenever the reed frame recedes, as above described, that end of the lever is necessarily forced back, and the under end consequently moved forward, bringing with it the horizontal rod S. This movement of the rod S, causes the end of the bent arm X, to be brought close against the vibrating sword of the lay, and also draws back the click W, over one tooth in the ratchet wheel U. On the return of the lay into the inclined posi- tion, as shown by dots in Fig. 166, the sword will strike against the end of the bent arm X, and slide the horizontal rod S, back again, which will cause the click W, to drive the ratchet wheel U, one tooth, and thereby turn the shaft T, and its endless screw, by means of which the yarn beam is drawn round, and the warp given out. But in the event of the weft thread having broken, there will be no delivery from the shuttle, and consequently a want of filling to the cloth ; the reed, therefore, in beating up, will not meet with that resistance which it did when the filling of the weft thread was per- fect. In the beating up of the lay, therefore, the reed frame will not now be driven back as before, nor the lever Q, be sufficiently acted upon to cause it to slide the horizontal rod S, through the same distance : consequently, the click W, will not be drawn over another tooth of the ratchet wheel U , and the shaft T, being thus allowed to remain in a quiescent state, the warp will no longer be given out from the yarn beam. The rotary movement given to the shaft T, in the way described, carries round the ratchet wheel Y ; and the teeth of this ratchet wheel acting upon the tooth at the end of the shorter arm of the bent lever Z, causes that end of the bent lever to be depressed every time that a tooth of the wheel Y, passes over the tooth of the lever, as shown by dots in Fig. 166. By these means, the reverse end or longer arm of the lever is PLAIN WEAVING. 361 raised, which causes the tappet pin fixed near its extremity to Uft the take-up lever, which operates upon the ordinary gearing for winding up the cloth on the roller as usual. But when the rotary movement of the perpendicular shaft T, is suspended, owing to the breaking of the weft thread, as before stated, then the taking up of the cloth ceases, as well as the delivery of the warp, although the loom continue in action. To a superficial observer, this contrivance of Mr. Stone's might appear to be the very acme of perfection ; yet, it possesses many de- fects, in a practical point of view. In the first place, it is of too complex a character : indeed, all that it accomplishes, can be effect- ed with one-fifth of the machinery which it contains. Mr. S's. loom is not capable of producing thin goods with any degree of regu- larity ; and this will be evident when it is remembered, that it is by the accumulating pressure of the cloth against the reed that motion is communicated to the yarn beam. It is clear, therefore, that for light muslins, or delicate silk textures, where only from 10 to 25 threads of weft per inch are required, this contrivance would not answer at all ; unless Mr. S. hung his reed upon a wisp, and em- ployed, in conjunction, a native of the Emerald Isle, to assist, by coaxing the warp from off" the yarn beam as fast as required. The cloth, instead of being taken up regularly as the loeaving proceeds, is wound up by fits and starts ; for it is not until a number of threads of weft have been added to the face of the cloth, equal to the length of one of the teeth in the ratchet wheel U, on the end of the perpendicular shaft T, that the click or driver W, is allowed to fall into a new tooth ; and after this has taken place, it will keep jiggling or dancing there, until another ridge of cloth is piled up against the reed, when the point of the click W, will again hop over a tooth, as before. In order to make this loom weave thin goods perfectly regular, it would be absolutely necessary to have the teeth of the ratchet wheel U, as fine as the diameter of the weft thread to be used ; but we question whether teeth of this fineness would not be more than a match for the eye-sight of any manufacturer in the United States. For textures having from 35 to 80 threads of weft per inch, how- ever, Mr. Stone's loom will be found an acquisition. Fig. 169, represents part of the frame of a loom, with the com- mon ratchet take-up motion attached thereto, as well as an improved method of governing it, receiving motion from a vibrating reed, which is arranged in a frame, precisely the same as that shown in Figs. 165, 166, 167 and 168. The improvement now to be de- 46 362 THE ART OP WEAVING. scribed, although exceedingly simple, is capable of effecting all that Mr. Stone's apparatus can accomplish.* Fig. 169. A B B C, is the frame of the loom ; w, w, the lay ; P, the reed ; g,g, two springs, for the purpose of keeping the under part of the reed frame K, pressed up. The springs g, g, are screwed by two screws at each end, as will be perceived by the black dots at the points w, w, and are governed, in regard to their pressure against the rail K, by means of two clasp bolts passing through the lay ; which clasp bolts may be seen close to the letters g, g ; these bolts have regulating nuts, one at the back and the other at the front of the lay, for the purpose of setting the bolts to any required position, according to the degree of pressure intended to be communicated from the springs g, g, to the rail K, of the reed frame. In the operation of the loom, the rail K, is pressed back by the reed P, at each vibration of the lay, a distance equal to the diameter of the weft thread, n, n, is a lever having its fulcrum at o, the upper end of which lever is kept pressed against the rail K, at the point X, by means of the spring v ; and this spring is made fast to the rail K, * The connexion between the reed and the yarn beam is not absolutely ne- cessary ; because, a uniformity of tension may be communicated to the warp from the cloth roller. PLAIN WEAVING. 363 by two screws, as indicated by the black dots.* At the lower end of the lever 7i, w, is a turned-up part z^ which touches the inclined part of the arm o, a, a : this arm has its axis at V, and carries at its end a click or driver c, for giving motion to the ratchet wheel c, which wheel has a pinion made fast to it, and taking into the spur wheel on the end of the cloth roller d : the ratchet wheel c, is pre- vented from recoiling by a suitable catch fixed inside the frame, its point working into the teeth of the ratchet a little to the right of the letter c. The vibrating motion of the lay is effected through the agency of a stud-pin carrying a small roller which works in the sweep i : this stud-pin is connected to an arm on the end of the driving shaft m.t When the loom is put in operation, the reed P, is forced back by the weft in the act of beating up ; and as the weft acts on the lever n, n, and makes its lower end to strike against the arm a, a, a, so as to put the cloth roller d, in motion, it thus winds on the texture as it is woven ; but if the reed beats up without the weft, it will not in that case be forced back, as there would not be any addition to the cloth, by the crossing of the weft, to that which had been previously beaten up ; the reed, therefore, would not be forced back by the subsequent motion of the loom, and consequently the lever 7?, n, would not strike against the inclined face of the arm a, a, a, and, of course, the taking-up apparatus would not be set in motion. The inclined arm a, or, a, has a small governing weight 10, at its end, which serves to balance it and keep the click or driver e, against the tooth in the ratchet wheel c .• but this weight 10, is not suffi- ciently heavy to cause the ratchet wheel c, to revolve. The sword of the lay carries a small roller or pulley fixed on a stud-pin, as shown a little above the letter y ; this roller serves to elevate the in- clined arm a, a, a, after it has been depressed by the action of the turned-up end of the lever w, w, upon it, in the manner already ex- plained ; so that in the backward motion of the lay, the roller will raise the arm a, a, a, and will thereby cause the click e, to fall back into a new tooth in the ratchet wheel c ; in which tooth it will re- main, until the lever 7i, 7i, has received sufficient motion from the point X, to cause the other extremity to depress the arm a, a, a, and * A patent for this inveniion (Fig. 169) was granted to Oliver C. Burr, an ingenious mechanic, of Milbury, Mass., bearing date July 17, 1835. t The figure being drawn in perspective, only one of the swords of the lay, with its sweep z", can be seen ; but the opposite side of the lay, of course, has a similar sword with a sweep i : no difficulty can be experienced on this head. 364 THE ART OF WEAVING. force the ratchet c. fonvard a distance equal to tliat which the catch e, had fallen back in the previous working of the loom. Before commencing the operation of weaving, the lever n, 7i, must be so set in relation to the inclined arm a. a, a, that when the reed is brought full up to the face of the cloth, the turned-up end of the lever /?. ??; will nearly touch the inchned face of the arm a,a,a; and when the lay is thrown full back, the roller will not touch the under side of the arm, because the arm had not been previously de- pressed by the lever n. n. In this position, therefore, the loom may continue to operate for ever without any motion being communica- ted to the ratchet wheel c. unless weft be added to the face of the cloth. It will be perceived, that a very shght addition of weft to the cloth (say two or three threads) will communicate extensive mo- tion to the arm a. a. a : and this is caused by the greater leverage of the lower end of the lever n. n. For looms of the working size, the length of the lever n.n. from the axis o. to the rail K, is 5 inches, and from the axis o. to the other extremity, or turned-up end. 17 inches ; but these relative lengths may be varied to suit the different heights of looms. It is very evident, therefore, that this u-nprovement or contrivance, is not only simpler, but superior to Stone's motion, and possesses the advantage over it. of taking up the cloth with greater regularity ; because, the action of the lever w, n, is direct on the arm a, a. a. at each pick of weft : three threads of weft at most being sufficient to comynunicate action to the arm a, a. a ; it is. however, not perfect, on this very account, being liable, to a certain extent, to the same defect experienced in Stone's mechanism, namely, the pihng of the cloth against the reed before any motion at all can be communicated. For shirtings and cali- coes, of from 30 to SO or 90 threads of weft per inch, this motion is, perhaps, the best in existence at the present day ; and the expense of fitting it to a loom is only a few shillings. " The invention is mine," said a would-be inventor ; « You lie," said a second, " I own 't, and no other ;" A third cried, " 'tis mine !" with a voice loud as Stentor ; And a fourth sxcore 'twas his ; while a fifth was its father. Figs. 170 and 171, exhibit another method of regulating the movement of the yarn beam, and of taking up the cloth, so as to produce textures of uniform thickness throughout: but this contri- vance contains the same defects as those pointed out in Mr. Stone's PLAIN WEAVING. 365 loom ; upon which loom it is, indeed, a direct infringement, although it possesses the merit of being somewhat simpler.* A, is the lay ; B, the spring reed ; C, a lever, extending down nearly as low as the bottom of the lay sword ; D, the part of the lay in which the bar F, slides ; F, a perpendicular shaft, having a ratchet wheel G, at its lower end, and an endless screw or worm H, on its upper end which operates, by gearing, to give the requisite motion to the yarn beam as in Stone's loom ; 1 1, steps of the per- pendicular shaft ; and J, a guide piece, having a notch or mortise in it to receive and guide the bar E, which acts upon the ratchet wheel G. Fig, 170. The following is the manner in which the bar E, receives its mo- tion from the spring reed B : — When the lay advances and brings the reed into contact with the * This alteration of Stone's loom, notwithstanding its similarity to the ori- ginal, was made the subject of a patent by one Welcome A. Potter, of Crans- ton, Rhode Island, Nov. 23, 1837 ; which circumstance goes far to prove what we have time after time stated, that there is in reality no more protec- tion for the ingenious man in the United States of America than in Great Britain. 366 THE ART OF WEAVING. cloth, the springing of the reed throws the top of the lever C, back, being actuated by the resistance of the face of the cloth against the reed, and as this lever works upon a fulcrum K, in the lay, and its lower end passes into a mortise or slot at L, in the bar E, and bear- ing against the fore end of this slot, draws the rod forward by the back motion of its upper end, and the back end of the bar E, then catches upon a tooth of the ratchet wheel G, to which wheel it will give motion when the lay is thrown back : this force is effected by the sword of the lay coming into contact with a shoulder at M, thus forcing the bar E, back and turning the ratchet wheel G, the shaft F, then moving the yarn beam by means of the worm or screw H. The foregoing description represents the bar E, as receiving its motion through the agency of the spring reed : but Mr. Potter says that he sometimes communicates it through that of the spring whip roll, as shown in Fig. 171. The whip roll N, is supported by a bent arm O, there being a smiilar one at its other end ; the bent arm O, works on a ful- crum P, made fast to the frame of the loom, said bent arjn ex- tending to about an equal distance from the fulcrum at each end. A spring Q,, acts upon the lower end of the bent arm, for the purpose of holding it in its proper position when not acted upon by any other force. When the lay moves forward, and the reed presses forcibly on the cloth, this has the effect of drawing tlie whip roll N, forward, and causing the lower end of the bent arm O, to recede : from this lower end, a rod or wire R, extends to a lever S, working on a fulcrum T, on the frame of the loom, its lower end passing into a mortise or slot in the bar E ; and this lever is operated upon in a manner similar to tliat of the lever C, already described : in both Figs, the mortise L, must be long enough to give play to the lever E, without moving the lever C, (Fig. 170) or the lever S, (Fig. 171.)* On referring to Mr. Stone's machine, Figs. 165, 166, 167 and 168, and comparing it with Mr. Potter's modification, shown in Figs. 170 and 171, the real character of the infringement wiU be manifest. In the first place, Mr. Stone's invention consists, in the * Tlie wfiip roll N, in connexion with the lever O, for the purpose lierein explained, is not the invention of Mr. Potter, Mr. Louis Schwabe and other manufacturers, of Manchester, having used it several years before the date of his patent ; and tliese gentlemen, no doubt, can tell Mr. Potter to whom the invention truly belongs ! PLAIN WEAVING. Fig. 171. 367 application of the lever Q, in connexion with the rod S, having the bent arm X made fast to it, the click W, ratchet wheels U, and Y, vertical shaft T, and the worm working into the spur wheel A A, on the end of the yarn beam (see Figs. 165 and 166 ;) and these parts, receiving motion from the vibrating reed D, govern the giving out of the warp, as well as the taking-up of the cloth, the one de- pending upon the other. This feature forms the subject of Mr. Stone's patent ; and, we think, with justice too ; for the contrivance is really very ingenious, and does its inventor credit, notwithstand- ing its inapplicability to some kinds of textures, as has been aheady stated. Now, on referring to the subject of Mr. Potter's patent, as shown at Figs. 170 and 171, it will be seen that he has adapted the let-off and take-up motions claimed by Mr. Stone ; for his worm H, shaft F, ratchet wheel G, bar E, lever C, and so forth, are precisely the same ; but he evades Mr. Stone's patent by substituting a mortise or slot L (see Fig. 170) in the rod or bar E, instead of the bent arm X, bolted to the rod or bar S, of Stone's loom (see Figs. 166.) Into the slot L, made in the bar E, Mr. P. inserts the end of the lever 368 THE ART OF VEAVING. C, instead of connecting it by a pin to the end of the rod or bar S, as in Figs. 165 and 166; and it is the playing of the lever C^ against the ends of the slot L, (receiving motion from the vibratory- reed) that rotates the ratchet G, on the end of the shaft F (Fig. 170,) instead of the piece X, and so forth, in Stone's loom. Mr. P. makes a catch of the rod or bar E, for turning the ratchet G, instead of inserting a stud-pin into the rod, and putting the chck W, on it, as in Fig. 1 66 : but this alteration, of course, amounts to nothing. The jogged end M. of the bar E, in Figs. 170 and 171, answers tbe same purpose as that shown in Figs. 165 and 166, but is no im- provement thereon. The spiral spring 12. in Figs. 170 and 1~1, is attached to the bar E, and stationary guide J, for the purpose of keeping the bar E, against the teeth of the ratchet G, until suffi- cient cloth has been woven to cause the under extremity of the lever C (Fig. 170) to draw back, towards the cloth, the bar E, so as to allow its point to drop into a new tooth in the ratchet G : all this justly belongs to 3Ir. Stone, as any man who is not a downright ignoramus may at once perceive. The modification of Fig. 170, shown in Fig. 171, does not possess any merit, and is only another method of beating about the bush, for the purpose of evading Stone's patent. How in the world Mr. Potter obtained a patent for Mr. Stone's invention, is to us a myster)- : surely somebody about the Patent Office must have been magnetized when this transaction took place. Fig. 172, represents a side view, in elevation, of a common power loom, with another modification of the same apparatus for regula- ting the takiug-up of the cloth : and for which contrivance, a patent was granted to Horace Hendrick. of Killing!}'; Conn., bearing date 22d Sept. 1S36 ; but it is not worth a 81,000; and our only object in having gone to the expense of drawing, engraving. &c., and givmg it insertion in this work, is, to expose that system which is so extensively carried on by men who have no real talent of their own and are too lazy to get their living by honest means. Mr. H. denominates his appendage, '•' the rod and sickle ;" but we think the term pruning hook would be quite cis applicable. F F F F, is the frame of the loom ; H H. the sword of the lay ; R R, the lever which receives motion from the vibrating reed, and is the same as that marked Q,, in Figs. 165, 166, 167 and 168, 71. n. in Fig. 169. and C. in Figs. 170 and 171. The lever RR, in this loom is made to beat up against the inchned rod X, at its lower extremity, near its fulcrum, this rod X, being connected to the arm of the common take-up lever (which is in all respects like that PLAIN WEAVING. Fiii. 172. 369 shown at Fig. 169.) L, is the lay ; B, a small friction roller or stud-pin fixed on the side of the lay, like that above the letter y, in in Fig. 169; except that in this case it is turned upside down, for some purpose best known to Mr. H. himself The arm C, being acted upon by the roller B, will, of course, cause the clicks or dri- vers K, to turn the cloth roller P. S, is a spring (one at each side of the lay) bolted to the sword of the lay at T, for the purpose of keeping the reed frame in its place, as in Stone's loom, and in the others also, but here it is turned topsy-turvy. Wherein does the reader suppose the subject of this patent con- sists ? Is it in the lever R R ? Is it in the springs S ? Or, is it in the clicks K ? The only feature of novelty that we can perceive, is in the beating of the nib or under extremity of the lever RR, against the lower part of the connecting rod X, and tliat too so near its fulcrum that something in the neighbourhood of a horse power, at least, must be required to enable ii to actuate the taking- up of the cloth ; and this, in our opinion, is improving backward. The rod X, (Fig. 172) being connected by a stud-pin to the lay 47 370 THE ART OF WEAVIXG. sword at bottom and to the ami C. at top, constitutes a positive take- up motion ; and consequently the lever R R, which is actuated by the reed, is useless. ?seither do we see the utility of the stud-pin or roller B ; because, the rod X, will raise and depress the arm C, which carries the clicks or drivers K, independently of it. The pa- tentee does not tell us how the lever R R, actuates the arm C, through the agency of the rod X, but simply remarks that " the lever RR. communicates motion to the cloth roller by means of the rod X, connected to the sickle C' He also says that '• the roller or stud-pin B, may be inserted in the lever R R, instead of in the sword H H ;•' but, we confess our inability to see the utility of so doing, unless the under extremity of the lever R R, were cut away altogether : after which, the motion would be in all respects hke that shown at Fig. 169 ; for if the stud-pin B, were made fast to the lever R R, underneath the arm C, and the roller or stud-pin B, on the lay sword above it, it would answer the same purpose as the turned-up end of the lever n, v, shown in Fig. 169, with the roller fixed on the sword of the la)' below it. But, in this case, it would be necessary to shorten the distance between the reed and the ful- crum of the lever R R, so as to bring the fulcrum nearer to the reed, as in Fig. 169. in order to give the other extremity greater scope for acting on the arm C. Instead of this, however. ?.Ir. H. informs us, that the fulcrum of the lever R R, is midway between the reed and its lower extremity. As this contrivance is represented, it will only operate as a posi- tive take-up motion, as before stated : and in order to make it actu- ate the arm C. tlirough the agency of the vibrating reed, the rod X, must be disconnected from the pin w. and a long slot made in the end of the rod X. into which slot the pin ic. may work : this pin w, having a suitable head made upon it. to prevent the rod X, from dropping off. This done, if the arm C, is counterbalanced with a weight, similar to that marked 10, in Fig. 169, the roller or stud- pin B, will depress it. In this position, the lower nib or point may possibly actuate the the rod X, in forcins- up the arm C, when a sufficient quantity of cloth is piled up against the reed : but even then we think the odds against the lever R R. will be tremendous, from the relative positions in which these parts are represented by the patentee. ■'•Emulation." says Mason, "like the other passions of the human mind, shows itself much more plainly, and works much more strongly in some than it does in others. It is in itself innocent ; and was planted m our natures for very wise ends, and, if kept un- PLAIN WEAVING. 371 der proper regulations, is capable of serving very excellent pur- poses, otherwise it degenerates into a 'mean and criminal ambi- tion. "When a man finds something within him that pushes him on to excel in worthy deeds, or in actions truly good and virtuous, and pursues that design with a steady unaffected ardour, without reserve or falsehood, it is a true sign of a noble spirit : for that love of praise can never be criminal, that excites and enables a man to do a great deal more good than he could do without it. And, per- haps, there never was a fine genius, or a noble spirit, that rose above the common level, and distinguished itself by high attainments in what is truly excellent, but was secretly, and perhaps insensibly prompted by the impulse of this passion. "But, on the contrary, if a man's views centre only in the ap- plause of others, -whether it he deserved or not ; if Ice pants after jjnpidirity and fame, not regarding hov) he comes by it ; if his passion for praise urge him to stretch himself beyond the line of his capacity, and to attempt things to which he is unequal ; to conde- scend, to mean arts and low dissimidation for the sake of a name : and in a sinister, indirect way, sue hard for a little in- cense, not caring from wht.m he receives it ; his ambition then becomes vanity. And if it excite a man to wicked attempts, make him willing to sacrifice the esteem of all wise and good men to the acclamations of a mob ; to overleap the bounds of decency and truth, and break through the obligations of honour and virtue, it is then not only vanity, but vice. '• To correct the irregularity and extravagance of this passion, let us but reflect how airy and unsubstantial a pleasure the highest gratifications of it afTord ; how many cruel mortifications it exposes us to." " There is," says another writer, " no greater act of injustice, none more detrimental to society, than to withhold or withdraw the meed of renowji from the real benefactors of our race. '• A desire to possess the esteem and gratitude of our fellow creatures, though not the highest, is yet one of the most legitimate motives of meritorious exertions ; one which should never be wan- tonly repressed by giving currency to either contemporary or pos- thumous calumny against a useful citizen." These sentiments are, in our opinion, so just and at the same time so well expressed, that the intelligent reader will at once perceive their apphcability to those subjects which we have just been con- 372 THE ART OF WEAVING. sidering ; and no apology will be required for inserting them in this place. Fig. 173, represents a front elevation of a power loom, showing a novel method of working the headles, as well as of throwing the shuttle ;* and Fig. 174, is a view of the crank or driving shaft de- tached from the loom. The nature of this improvement consists, in constructing the crank or driving shaft with a cylindrical cam on one end of it, as shown to the left in both Figs., a groove being made round the pe- riphery of this cam, by means of which, in connexion with an in- tervening lever and straps, the headles are worked ; and also ano- ther lever of similar form receives its motion in the same way, for the purpose of throwing the shuttle. The latter of these levers communicates motion to the picker staff, by means of a connecting rod, at its lower extremity, as shown in Fig. 174. Pig. 173. Fig. 174. a a, is the frame of the loom ; h b, the crank shaft, carrying the fast and loose pulleys c, on one end, outside the frame, and on the * A patent for this improvement, was granted, in the United States, to Frederick Downing, bearing date 27th Jan. 1843. PLAIN WEAVING. 373 opposite end, the cylindrical cam ick of the same weft after the Jac- quard shedding, when the bowl 7, will immediately ascend, and allow tlie shuttle boxes m, m, to descend by their own gravity ; and thus the upper shuttle is enabled to put in two picks of fine, or coloured weft, before the Jacquard machine comes again into FIGURED WEAVING. 443 operation, and also two picks of fine, or coloured weft, prior to the next ascent of the shuttle boxes. Fig. 215. The third feature of the improvement comes into operation, in order to complete the weaving-, or to put in the quilting^ or stitch- ing- threads, by shedding the coloured warps b', and b- ; — this is accompHshed by an improved method of hfting and lowering the griflf of the Jacquard machine, in order to insure a perfect regu- larity and steadiness of action in moving either upwards or down- wards. For this purpose a spur wheel 12, 12, is attached, to drive the small pinion 13, (Figs. 212 and 213) keyed upon the shaft 14; and upon the reverse end of this shaft 14, a pair of segments 15, 15, having beveled teeth formed, upon one sixth part of their circumference only, each driving successively, the pinion 16, upon the small cross shaft 17, (Fig. 214 ;) that is, these segments of teeth are so arranged, that as soon as the one segment of teeth 15, (Fig. 212) has turned tlie pinion 16, (Fig. 216) one half of a revo- lution in one direction, the other segment of teeth 15, instantly turns the pinion 16, one half of a revolution in the reverse direction. In order to transfer this rerersing motion to the raising and lower- ing motion of the griff of the Jacquard machine, there is a bevel wheel 18, upon the other end of the small shaft 17, taking into a pinion 19, of half its diameter, at the lower end of the vertical shaft 20, 20, which has, at its upper end, a head-piece 22, 22, having side grooved pieces 23, 23, in which the pins 24, 24, fast upon the 444 THE ART OF WEAVING. head of the double screw 25, 25, (Fig. 214) work, and thus turn the double screw round. This double screw 25, 25, is cut half its length ill reverse directions, and works in the guide 26, which will have the effect of lifting the griff through the required space, in half the time that the crank shaft makes one revolution. Fig. 216. The fourth part of these improvements in the construction of looms, consists, in an arrangement of mechanism, designed for the purpose of throwing the loom out of gear with the driving power, either when the weft breaks or becomes expended in the shuttle, or when the taking up of the cloth is not equal to the production. This is accomplished by the ordinary beat or vibration of the lay itself and not at all dependent upon the coarseness or fineness of the weft thread. A stud 27. in the sword of the la3\ usually em- ployed for working the taking up motion 28, operates upon a small lever 29, to which is attached the click 30, (Figs. 213 and 214) giving motion to the ratchet wheel 31, one tooth at every beat of the lay. Upon this ratchet wheel are four small pins 32, 32, (see detached Fig. 215, drawn to a larger scale :) this wheel runs loosely upon a small stud 33, which stud also carries a smaller ratchet wheel 34, keyed fast upon it, and having four small holes in its-side, corresponding with the pins in the ratchet 31 ; this stud 33, also carries, at its outer extremit}^, a small pinion 35, which is driven by the spur-wheel 33, upon the shaft of the taking up wheel 28. Thus it will be evident, to persons conversant with power loom weaving, that as the lay vibrates and beats up the cloth ; and as long as the weft thread is put in. and the cloth sufficiently beaten up, the taking up motion 28, will cause the pinion 35, to drive the stud and ratchet round ; but, in the event of the weft not entering the cloth, and the cloth has not been produced, the lay will not FIGURED WEAVING. 445 Fig. 217, advance sufficiently to drive out the click 30, and ratchet 31, which wheel will now overtake the smaller ratchet, and as they are always held together by a spring behind the pins 32, will immediately enter the holes in the ratchet wheels 34, and thus vibrate the rod 39, which slides the horizontal bar 40, before the lever 41, (Fig. 212) and thus throw the strap from off the driving pulley. The horizontal sliding bar 40. now returns by means of the side mo- tion of the setting off lever 41, and thus releases the pins from the holes. In the two small ratchet wheels there is a catch-piece 42, upon the rod 39 ; this catch-piece, as it returns, pushes the click lever 43, and click 44, onwards, and just advances the smaller ratchet wheel one tooth, in order to set the holes free of the pins, and thus be ready to start the loom again. Fig, 216, represents a detatched and enlarged view of one of the tappet plates, with its tappets or bowls, moveable in the concentric mortices ; and Fig. 217, represents a modification of the mode of lifting the shuttle boxes, and is here shown as capable of lifting and sustaining five boxes. The apparatus used for working the Jacquard machinery, shown in Figs 212, 213 and 214, answers the piupose extremely well on this kind of loom. That part of the bar or rod 20, wliich passes through the warp, should be made flat and with round edges, and well pohshed, so as to prevent strain or friction on the threads 446 THE ART OF WEAVING. during the operation of weaving. To prevent confusion, we have not represented in these drawings the jacks or coupers which sup- port the headles c, c ; but any practical weaver of figured goods, as a matter of course, understands that part of a loom. The reader will not fail to perceive, in Fig. 212, a beautiful repre- sentation of an embalming scene, as practised by the ancient Egyp- tians. This operation was performed on those men who had dis- tinguished themselves by their achievements in their country's cause ; and, as a further token of respect, sometimes tlieir biains were picked out (as in the present instance) and carefully preserved at the expense of the Government. For the drawing of this re- markable scene, we are indebted to our old friend, Alexis Kersive- nus, who informs us, that the dead gentleman, on whose cranium the physicians are at work, was the first person, in Egypt, who suc- ceeded in weaving a correct representation of the tv.^elve signs of the zodiac. Erastus B. Bigelow, Esq. of Lowell, Mass., obtained a patent, 30th May, 1842, ^^for certain imj)rovements in the manner of mounting the harness, and loorking the sajne, in the loom for weaving figured fabrics^ such as are coinmonly known under the names of imperial or French quilts, and imperial petticoat rnhes.^^ The specification of this patent is of enormous length, full of useless repetition, and the figures which accompany it, cover three large sheets of drawing paper. For this specification and draw- ings if we recollect rightly, we paid the Commissioner of patents (H. L. EUsworth) at Washington, the sum of $17.50.* The pa- tentee, in summing up his claims, says : " Having thus fully described the nature of my improvements, in the loom for vreaving counterpanes, and other figured articles, and having also, set forth several different modifications thereof, and particidarly in the manner of forming and arranging the cams, on the cam shafts, by which the required motion is given to the respective treadles, so as to correspond in their action \yth tlie ar- rangements made in the other parts of the loom, it is to be under- stood that / do not claim, nor do I intend to limit tnysclf to the particular arrangement of the cams and treadles, these not con- stituting a distinguishing or an essential feature of m-y im- * We did not receive the specification and drawings of this loom in time to insert them in the proper part of this Work ; but we expect to have another opportunity soon of laying them before the public. FIGURED WEAVING. 447 provements ; these consisting mainly, i}i the mounting of the loo?n and of tying- up the harness, so as to admit of the employ- ment of one, or rnore, moveable harness-boards, and of one, or more, leaves of headles, and of the Jacqnard Machine in the power loom. By this arrangement 1 am enabled to produce a free and open shed of the warp, and to allow one part, or shed, thereof to descend ivhilst the other is rising. What I claim, therefore, as constituting my ijiventions, and which I desire to secure by Let- ters Patent, is the within described manners or modes of mounting the loom, and tying up the harness, and of working the same, in which, under its various modifications, I combine a moveable har- ness-board, or boards, with one, or more, leaves of headles, or harness, and xoith the Jacquard Machine in the povjer loom, (see Figs. 212 to 217;) such arrangement and combination being sub- stantially the same with that herein described." The loom represented at Figs. 212 to 217 was patented three years prior to Mr. Bigelow's loom ; and the invention of it took place nearly five years before the date of the patent. The Jacquard machine used by Mr. Bigelow is of the old con- struction, having trap-boards and knot-cords ; and the patentee says in his specification, " One of the trap-boards is allowed to descend whilst the other rises, without disturbing the action of the knot-cords, and I thereby counteract the unequal action of the harness iceights upon the cams by which they are raised." This action of the trap-boards is the invention of James Cross, of Paisley, Scotland ; and which he first brought into notice about the year 1818; it is known by the name of "Cross's counterpoise harness ;" the principle of which is, that one trap-board rises while the other is sinking. Mr. Cross's loom is described at page 161, and represented at Figs. 171 to 179; and by examining it atten- tively, the reader will perceive that the counterpoise trap-boards, on which Mr. Bigelow lays the greatest stress, (in his specification) are there shown to perfection. The raising and lowering of the har- ness-boards below, so as to govern the shedding of the warps, cor- responding to the action of the trap-boards above, is entirely de- pendent on the principle of Mr. Cross's machine. The practical weaver of figured textures, will at once perceive the nature of these claims of Mr. Bigelow. (see page 479.) The patentee describes, at great length, various forms of cams, which are also represented in his drawings ; and by means of these cams, he tells us, the necessary motions are communicated to the headles, as well as to the Jacquard. Twenty different figures of 448 THE ART OF WEAVING. these cams are given, illustrative of their various forms and the posi- tions which we are told they assume during the operation of the loom. The cam-wheel for working the Jacquard corresponds in every respect to that marked D D', in Tompkins and Gilroy's loom, Fig. 205 ; the cams for working the headles, «fcc. are also the same. It will be observed that Mr. Bigelow. in summing up his claims, says, in reference to all these, that they do not constitute '"a dis- tinguishing or an essential feature" of liis improvements, but re- marks, that these consist " mainly in the mounting of the loom, and of tying up the harness, so as to admit of the employment of one. or more, moveable harness-boards, and of one. or more, leaves of headles. and of the Jacquard machine in the power loom." (See Gilroy's loom mountings or tie-ups, Examples Nos. 1 to 10.) It appears somewhat strange to us, tliat this gentleman should fill three-fourths of his specification in describing these wheels and cams, and give so many different figures of them in his draw- ings ; and after all this state, that they are not "■' essentiaV^ to the working of his loom. Now the truth is, without these, the loom would not be worth a stiver, because it could not produce the stuffs referred to in the specification at all. as any one may perceive by looking at the specification and drawings of this patent, lodged at Washington. It has been already stated, that 3Ir. Bigelow claims "the employ- ment of one or more leaves of headles, and of the Jacquard ma- chine in the power loom;" which is funny enough. By reference to Figs. 203 and 204, it will be perceived that Tompkins and Gil- roy's loom has eight leaves of headles, besides Jacquard machine- ry ; and yet their patent is dated May 9th, 1835, whereas, Mr. Bigelow's'is dated May, 1842: (see also Figs. 212, 213, and 214.) Some men admire the heights of mountains, the huge waves of the sea, the steep fall of rivers, the compass of the ocean, and the circuit of the stars, but as for us, we shall for the present content ourself v.ith simply noticing a loom for weaving coach lace, Brus- sels carpeting, and other fabrics with looped surfaces invented by Thomas Thompson, a subject of Great Britain, and which inven- tion has been Secured by Letters Patent. By the aid of this loom, Mr. T. is enabled to manufacture coach lace at the cost of one penny farthing per yard, wliich formerly cost four pence half penny, exhibiting the astounding difference in favour of Mr. Thompson's machine, over every previous machine, of three pence farthing per yard. To this manufacture he has added the Brussels FIGURED WEAVING. 449 carpet, velvet, &c., which we are assured is produced with the most surprising velocity. " It is truly astonishing to see the inarch of scienct'.^^ Mr. Thompson's ingenious loom is described in the London Jour- nal of Arts and Sciences, conjoined series No. CL. vol. XXIV, and may be procured on application to Messrs. Newton 6c Son 66 Chan- cery Lane, London. As we intend to give a complete description of this machine, in our work on carpet weaving by power, no farther notice need be taken of it in this place. Miles Berry, (of the firm of Newton and Berry, patent agents, 66 Chancery-lane, London,) obtained a patent in August, 1838, for certain improvements in looms for producing metalhc tissues, and also improvements in such tissues, applicable to the making of but- tons, epaulettes, tassels, and other purposes, for which gold and silver lace or braiding is commonly employed, and to the making of imitations of jewellery and other fancy articles. These improvements consist, in weaving or producing ornamen- tal metallic tissues or fabrics of wire applicable to various useful purposes, for which gold and silver lace is commonly used ; as for instance, in the making of different articles of ornamental dress, epaulettes, bands, sashes, bindings, trimmings, tassels, buttons, and various other purposes where gold and silver lace is now applied, also to the covering of boxes, books, card cases, and covering or forming various imitations of jewellery, and other fancy articles ; and consist in weaving, making, or forming, such ornamental metallic tissues, entirely of strands of wire, either of gold, silver, sil- ver-gilt, copper-gilt or other metal, or mixtures of metal, which wires are woven into a tissue or fabric, having patterns or ornamen- tal devices thereon, by any suitable figuring machinery, such orna- mental metallic tissues being composed entirely of metal, in contra- distinction to the ordinary gold and silver lace, and have all the variety of design or pattern, and brilliancy of appearance of the finest figured or brocaded silk, or other fabric, without their perish- able qualities ; and are capable of being cleaned by boihngor wash- ing with water, or immersing in acid solution, and gilded or silvered or even soldered together after they have been woven, — which can- not be done with tissues having silk, cotton, or other threads, inter- woven in the fabric. The improvements in the looms for weaving such tissue or fabrics, being the application and adaptation of the well known Jacquard 57 450 THE ART OF WEAVING. mechanism or apparatus for acting upon the warp threads or wires, to produce the figure or design, together with suitable mechan- ism, whereby the same is made or rendered more apphcable to the loom for this purpose ; for when the Jacquard apparatus is applied in the ordinary manner (in hand looms) the abrupt or sudden ac- tion caused by the treadles through the Jacquard upon the warps, and also their great extent of opening or separating to allow the shuttle to pass, is liable to break the metalhc strands, they not be- ing so elastic or capable of yielding longitudinally as warps of silk or twisted fibrous material, and therefore a means of remedying this evil is adapted with the Jacquard to the loom ; the rising motion of the head-board or top of the Jacquard apparatus, being first met by an elastic resistance, and then stayed ai the proper distance by an adjustable stop-piece. It should be here remarked, that solid gold and silver, and gilt wire, has been heretofore applied in the making of gold and silver lace ; but it has only been used as weft threads, interwoven with M^arps, consisting of threads of silk or fibrous material, such warps being covered, or nearly so, by the picks of metal weft, and having a small or finer binding warp thread of silk or fibrous material to secure such metal weft in parts where it floats over several threads to produce the figure or design on the face of the fabric ; and such combination of metal, and silk or fibrous material, has here- tofore, only been woven in an ordinary figuring loom without the Jacquard apparatus ; such lace has all the disadvantages of the common gold and silver lace, composed entirely of silk or fibrous material, both warp and weft being covered by a thin coating of metal wound or coiled around tliem. It should also be ob- served, that a description of metallic tissue has heretofore been wo- ven in ordinary looms of the simplest construction, that is, without the means of producing figures or designs : but this has been done only in broad-pieces of plain fabric, the warp and weft regularly in- terweaving with one another at each pick of the weft or change of the pattern or figure ; which woven wire work or fabric is applica- ble to the making of window-blinds, paper strainers, sieves, screens, fire guards, and other purposes, where the same may be used. In order to apply this invention with good eflTect, and produce the ornamental tissues with the best advantage, the metalhc strands or wire should be carefully annealed by heating the same, and allow- ing it to cool gradually, in order to destroy the brittleness caused in the drawing of the wire, and to render it as pliant as possible, so that the metalhc strands may work well with the Jacquard appara- FIGURED WEAVING. 451 tus. The following means or method of effecting this object should be pursued : — The wire is first wound upon liollow metal bobbins ; into the hol- low part or centre of these bobbins are to be placed red hot pieces of metal, whereby the wire will be heated on the bobbins, and then allowed gradually to get cold. In order to preserve the polish of the wire, and not to injure its colour, the bobbins should be of different metals, according to the different metal wire to be operated upon ; for instance, when copper wire is to be used, the bobbin should be formed of copper ; if the wire is silver, or silver gilt, or copper gilt, the bobbin should be formed of silver, and if the wire is gold, the bobbins should of course also be of gold* This process of anneal- ing, as well as the means employed, may be varied according to cir- cumstances, and the kind of metal to be operated upon ; or the wire or metallic strands may be annealed in any other convenient way ; but the above described process prevents the wire being in- jured by heat, and gives it all the pliancy desired. First, begin by warping the annealed metallic strands or wires, by six at a time, on the ordinary warping mill, each wire being sup- plied from a bobbin, placed on a creel in the same manner as in the ordinary method of warping cotton, silk, or other threads, (see Figs. 3, 4 and 5.) These metallic strands are to be fastened, by packs of 25 together, on the warp beam of the loom, taking care they are all equally distended. When this is done, the beam is to be turned round, and all the warp threads wound evenly thereon. It is requisite, at each revolution of the roller, to place a strip of card- board, or piece of stiff paper or other material, upon the metallic strands, wound upon the l)eam, in order to prevent them from get- ting entangled one with the other ; or a continuous sheet of card- board, paper, or cloth, may be wound on with the strands for this purpose. This precaution is very necessary, as otherwise the threads would bind one with another, and prevent them unwinding or drawing off regularly, during the operation of weaving, and there- by become broken. A sufficient length of the metallic warp must be left unwound, to allow of their being passed through the headles and the reed : — this is done in the same way as with cotton or silk warps : the workman, however, must be careful not to let any of the strands escape ; for, if he does so, the wire springing back would coil up on itself, and loop into a kind of knot, — and consequently * None but workmen of the best character are employed in this manufac- ture, strict honesty being indispensable. 452 THE ART OF WEAVING, be injured. "When this is the case, the injured wire must be re- placed by another, to be taken from an extra spool or bobbin placed at the back of the loom ; and every time a metallic strand breaks, duriuff the weaving of the tissue, it must be replaced by a fresh one, taken from an extra bobbin, and the part of the broken strand re- maining on the warp beam conducted out of the way by passing it over a small pulley, and kept, by means of a weight attached to it. from intermixing with the other or perfect threads. When all the threads are passed through the headles and the reed, they are to be collected, in packs of 25, and fastened to the cloth roller, the strands being distended equally thereon. These prehminary opera- tions being performed, the loom is ready for working. The shuttle employed is similar to that used in the weaving of silk, and is supplied with a bobbin containing the metalhc weft strands. The shuttle should, however, be rather heavy, as instead of governing the delivery of the weft, it would then be governed by it, and would spring back and cause injury to the work. The first few courses of the shuttle serve to regulate the position of the threads, as in ordinary weaving, and for that purpose any kind of weft may be used instead of metallic wires. The operation of weaving is effected in precisely the same way as when working with silk or other material : care should, how- ever, be taken that the weft strands of wire be finer than those of the warp. Tissues, composed of copper wire, may be woven in their natural colour, and afterwards gilded or silvered ; or this may be done pre- vious to the weaving, as thought desirable. Silver tissue requires much less care in the course of fabrication than wire gilt or silvered, as with the latter, care must be taken not to injure the surface ; the tissue, as it is woven, should be covered with a cloth. These metallic tissues may be applied to a great variety of articles and purposes, and. by their being composed entirely of metal, may be cut into any number of parts or forms, and attached to each other, or to other metal pieces, by soldering, or by the usual mode of joining various articles of jewellery and fancy work. They may be used for the top parts and binding of epaulettes, where gold and silver lace is nov\- employed : for covering the heads of tassels ; co- vering buttons ; and various fancy articles ; and when woven in narrow breadths, after the manner of gold and silver lace, galloons, or binding, they may be used for hat and other bands, bindings, and trimmings for various purposes. FIGURED WEAVING. 453 The metallic tissues, composed of silver wire, are very readily cleaned with a solution of water and sulphuric acid — the strength or portion of acid is regulated according to the degree of oxidation of the metallic tissues ; or they may be cleaned in any other way that delicate metal articles are usually cleaned. Those articles which have become discoloured by exposure to the atmosphere, the effect of smoke, or other causes, may be dipped in acid solution, and their primitive freshness restored. Glass Weaving. — M. Dubus Bonnel, of Lille, has discovered a method of making a cloth of glass, which is perfectly flexible, and may be applied to the hanging of rooms and other purposes. This cloth is extremely beautiful ; and from the manner in which it re- flects the light, it surpasses in brilliancy every thing that has ever been attempted with silk, even when combined with gold and silver. Some specimens of this new manufacture have been exliibited in the Passage de I'Opera, in Paris ; and the Queen of the French was so pleased with them, that she ordered a gold medal to be sent to the inventor. The following passage is extracted from a French paper: — "When we figure to ourselves an apartment decorated with cloth of glass, and resplendent with lights, we must be con- vinced that it will equal in brilliancy all that it is possible for the imagination to conceive ; it will realize, in a word, the wonders of the enchanted palaces of the Arabian Tales. The lights flashing from the polished surface of the glass, to which any colours or shade may be given, will make the room have the appearance of an apart- ment of pearls, mother-of-pearl, or diamonds, or composed of garnets, sapphires, topazes, rubies, emeralds, amethysts, (fcc, or, in short, of all those precious stones united and combined in a thousand ways, and formed into stars, rosettes, boquets, garlands, festoons, and graceful undulations, vaiied almost to infinity." — UEcho du Monde Savant, ^c. No. 58, Feb. 15, 1837.) The warp is composed of silk, and forms the body and ground- work, on which the pattern in glass appears, as effected by the weft. The requisite flexibility of glass thread for manufacturing purposes is to be ascribed to its extreme fineness, as not less than 50 or 60 of the original threads (produced by steam-engine power) are re- quired to form one thread of the weft. The process is slow ; as not more than a yard can be manufactured in 12 hours. The work, however, as already observed, is extremely beautiful, and coni[)ara- tively cheap, inasmuch as no similar stuff where bullion is really introduced can be purchased for any thing hke the price at which this is sold ; added to this, it is, eb far as the glass is concerned, im- 454 THE ART OP WEAVING. perishable. Glass is more durable than either gold or silver, and, besides, possesses the advantage of never tarnishing. Some admi- rable specimens of this kind of cloth may also be seen at the Poly- technic Institution, Regent street, London, especially two patterns of silver on a blue and red ground, and another of gold on crimson.* The Jacquard by which it is woven may also be seen at the same estabhshment ; — this Jacquard is exactly like that represented at Figs. 93 to 98, and described at page 192. The inventor of this manufacture (M. Bonnel) entered into an arrangement with Colonel Calvert, of London, for the purpose of securing patents in Great Britain, for the method of rendering the glass thread pliable, as well as of giving it any shade of colour re- quired. The Colonel obtained patents accordingly in the year 1837, and soon after applied to us for an introduction to a person likely to purchase them, and also to construct a few looms, for the purpose of exhibiting the new manufacture on a small scale in the first instance, to show the advantages of it. We immediately in- troduced him to Mr. WiUiam Webb (of the firm of James Jacquier & Co., loom-builders. No. 1, Wood street, cor. of Church, Spital- fields.) This gentleman, having the entire confidence of the Eng- lish manufacturers, both as regards strict integrity of character and as possessing a thorough practical knowledge of every species of figured weaving, was, in a short time, enabled to meet the Colonel's wishes. Mr. Williams offered to purchase the patents, provided that Mr. Webb would undertake to fit up suitable looms for weav- ing the stuff, which the last named gentleman agreed to do ; and accordingly the patents were purchased from the Colonel for 5000Z. For our trouble in this affair, and many other services besides, we have never received from the Colonel so much as a polite acknow- ledgement. Had we not signed the " temperance pledge" we might have insisted on something to drink. Mr. Webb, for his services, obtained the sum of 5/.; while his lost time was at least worth lOOZ. Letters patent were granted to us in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Belgium, Prussia and the United States of America, for a loom for weaving figured goods of almost every description, on the full harness principle without either headles or treadles. The Eng- lish patent bears date 12th May, 1839, and was enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery, Chancery lane, London, 12th * Some beautiful specimens of this kind of cloth have lately been presented to the Commissioner of Patents at Washington, for public exhibition in the Patent Office in that city. FIGURED WEAVING. 455 November, in the same year. The English, Irish, and Scotch pa- tents are in the name of Moses Poole, Esq., (of the firm of Poole and Garpmael, of the Patent Office, London ;) the French in the name of Charles Cunningham, Esq. (father-in-law of Charles La- fitte, of the firm of Lafitte, Blount & Co.. bankers, Paris ;) the Bel- gian in the name of Henry Truflfaut ; the Prussian in the name of Platzhoff and Haenal, silk manufacturers, Bruggen, near Crefeld ; and the American in the name of Jeremiah Wilbur, Esq.* (of the firm of Masters, Markoe &. Co., merchants. New York.) The last named patent is dated March 12th, 1842, but has only 14 years to run from the date of the English one above named. Fig. 218, represents a front elevation of this improved loom. Fig. 219, a side elevation. Fig. 220, a longitudinal vertical section. Fig. 221, a plan of a part of the loom. Fig. 222, a front view of the Jacquard cylinder and frame which carries it, showing the card protectors. Fig. 223, is a detached section of the lay, (fcc, showing a front and side view of the weft puller or tightener. Fig. 224, shuttle. Fig. 225, the slide of the stop motion detached. On the different Figs, of these drawings, the letters of reference are the same. a a, the frame of the loom ; b, the lay; c, (Fig. 218) the reed. The take-up motion rollers d d, placed one above the other just un- der the breast-beam, are geared together by the cog wheels d\ (Fig. 218 ;) the upper take-up roller is pressed down by a lever and weight d^, (Figs. 219, 220 and 221 ;) on the axis of the lower one is a pulley d"^, (Fig. 219) from which a band or belt e^, passes down to a similar pulley e"^, on the cloth roller e, (Fig. 220 ;) this band is tightened with more or less force by the pressure of the pulley e', (Fig. 219) attached by a stud to a bent lever e% governed by a moveable weight. /, (Figs. 220 and 221) is a horizontal shaft on the outside of the frame, placed at right angles to, and on a level with the cam shaft, on the end of which is a bevel wheel /', (Figs. 218 and 221) meshing into the bevel wheel f", on the shaft /, (it will be perceived that by changing the relative size of these wheels difTerent relative velocities will be given to the shafts ;) on the for- * George D. Baldwin, merchant, 35 Spruce-street, New York, has the sole management of our patents in the United States of America; to whom all communications on the subject must be addressed. 456 THE ART OF WEAVING. ward end of the shaft /, is a worm wheel /^j (Fig. 221) working" into a slud-wheel g^ on which is a pinion g\ meshing into a cog- wheel ^^, on the axis of the lower take-vip roller d. i i, are picker sticks ; j, (Fig. 219) are the shuttle-levers or treadles, by which the picker-sticks i i, are moved ; k, are the cams to put the shuttle- levers in motion (one at each side of the loom ;) m, fast and loose pulleys driven by a belt in the usual way ; n, warp beam ; o. whip- roller — this roller is suspended on the top of two levers o', havmg their fulcra ato^, (Figs. 219 and 220) and extending down nearly perpendicular ; the ends of these levers rest against tops o^, and are held there by springs o^ ; this allows the warp to give way at €very beat of the lay, recovering its first position when the lay re- tires from the cloth. The warp-beam w, is surrounded at each end by the usual friction strap, to each of which is appended a lever p, having its fulcrum at p', and running under the warp-beam to- wards the front of the loom ; on this lever is a sliding weight p^, to which is attached a connecting rod p^ ; these rods have eyes in their forward ends, in which the journals of a horizontal roller q, turn ; /?^, (see Fig. 221) are springs attached to the rods p^, which draw them forward and bring the roller q, against the cloth roller e, and the weight p~, to the extreme end of the lever. The warp yarn runs from the beam n, over the roller o, through the harness and reed over the breast-beam (which in this loom is a roller, as shown in the Figs ;) the cloth then passes down inside and under the rollers d d, and round the lower one, up between, then over the upper one and down to the cloth roller e, (this roller is clearly shown in Fig. 220.) As the cloth roller increases in size by the winding on of the cloth, the roller q, is pushed back, carrying along with it the rodp'^, and weight/?^, thereby lessening the tension on the warp- beam, as the roll diminishes ; on taking a " cut" from the clotli roller the rod p^, is lengthened by means of the coupling at jt?% (Fig. 220) so as to retain the weight in the same position when the cloth is taken from the roller; the cloth is regularly drawn forward as it is woven, by means of the take-up rollers, connected as above described, with the cam shaft; the cloth is wound on the cloth roller e, with any required degree of tension, as fast as it is deliver- ed from the take-up rollers d rf, by means of the band or belt e^, and tightening or friction pulley e', the revolutions of this roller being regulated by the quantity of cloth given out. On the driving shaft r, (Fig. 221) is placed an eccentric 6', surrounded by a collar to which an inflexible rod b^, is attached, having a governing screw b* (Fig. 218) to regulate its length ; the upper end of this rod is 218. y^^r. 219. Fin: 224. Hb:226 I Y2P.220. Fia2 22. FIGURED WEAVING. 457 connected with the Jacquard lever g^. It will be perceived by this arrangement that the harness leads, weights, &c., arc worked with the greatest precision and without shock ; but, as the shed in this case closes down, when the lay has been brought forward half the beat, the eccentric above described could not be used on some kinds of textures to advantage, particularly on silk goods, but for another invention which we call the " weft puller" or " tightener," con- structed in the following manner : — To the under side of tlie lay is at- tached an iron s, (Fig. 223) which projects forward and is formed into a fulcrum, on which turns a finger or lever 5' ; this finger runs up in front of the lay, and curves back lying in a channel cut across the race-board, (one channel outside of each selvage) the ex- treme end curving up, at or behind the reed ; the finger is held in this position by a spring s", (Fig. 223) attached thereto above the fulcrum, and passing under the lay ; the end of the finger below the fulcrum is flattened out, and a short rod s^, is joined to it (form- ing a hinge) so as to vibrate sideways parallel to the lay ; this is kept in a vertical position by the spring s* ; from the opposite side projects a stud s^ on which an arm s^, from the protector s~, of the stop motion rests (this is connected with the shuttle-box and is of the common construction, as shown in Figs. 219 and 220 ;) from the front upright of the loom is extended out an arm v, (Figs. 220 ; and 223) under the breast beam, the end of which forms a fulcrum at r', for the lever catch v"^ (Fig. 223 ;) this lever, at its lower and forward end, is bent so as to rest on the arm v, and is held down to it by the spring v^ : the other end of this lever is bent up so as to come in contact with the rod s^, when the lay is thrown forward, carrying the finger or lever 5', forv.'ard of the lay, and pnsliing the weft thread up to the cloth and straightening it before the shed de- scends ; as soon as the rod passes over the catch, the spring 5-, (Fig. 223) brings it into place again, as the lay returns, the lever v^, is depressed by the rod s^, till it clears it : — if the shuttle does not pass entirely into the box, the rod s^ (which is secured in the protector s' ,) bears down on the stud s^, and turns the rod .s-^, to one side, so that it does not strike the lever catch t;"^, and the finger *', remains at rest till the loom stops, thereby preventing the damage that might be caused by forcing it forward. The Jacquard in its general construction is similar to that repre- sented at Figs. 93 to 98, and described at page 192, except in the following particulars : The first part of the improvements consist in what we call " card protectors." Fig. 222 shows a front view of the cvlinder z, with its pattern cards, (these cards are hke those re- 58 45S THE ART OF WEAVING. presented at Fig. 97.) and the frame 6', which supports it. The card protectors (one at each end of the pattern card) are marked c, and are similar to the press d^ : they are placed 1 of an inch inside the studs or knobs «® ; the feet of these protectors have a smooth Avire on their under edge, (see detached part, Fig. 222^) to prevent the cards from catching : the rods of these protectors run up through the cross braces 6®. of the cylinder frame, passing through spiral springs A ^ between the braces which help to press them down on the pattern-card. It will be seen that by this simple method the cards are prevented from being misplaced or injured when the loom is in the most rapid motion. The second improvement in the Jacquard consists, in a method of counterbalancing the leads, so that a great saving of power is obtained in working the loom : this improvement is shown in Figs. 21S. 219 and 220. 11. is a throated pulley which revolves on its axis in a suitable stand, bolted to the frame of the machine at the top : 12. is a strong rope made fast to this pulley 11, and passing out at one side of if. where a knot is made upon the rope ; this knot is represented at .50. Fig. 21S : one end of the rope is then connected to the Jacquard lifting arm at 16, the other end being made fast to a lever 13, (Figs. 219 and 220 ;) this lever has its ful- crum or axis at 15. and is governed by the counterpoise 14. which may be regulated to any required position by means of a set screw, as shown in Figs. 219 and 220 : the operation of this apparatus is as follows : When the loom is put in action, the rod 6^ Fig. 218, will cause the end 16, of the Jacquard lifting arm to be elevated and thus allow the lever 13, to be depressed by the counterpoise 14 ; this takes place at each vibration of the lay, while the shed is open- ing ; and while the shed is closing, this lever wiU again recover its first position, as shown in the Figs. "While the shed is opening, the weight 14, on the lever 13, will aid the l>eltor strap, which commu- nicates motion to the machinery (in the usual way) in hfting the leads, because it will act as a counterpoise upon them. By a proper adjustment of the weight 14. according to the weight of lead re- quired to be lifted, the belt for running the loom on light goods, such as merinoes. gros de Naples, etc.. need not be over If inches wide : we have never used a broader one on such goods ; any sud- den jerking, caused by the leads in their descent, will be entirely prevented by the counterpoise 14. By means of this contrivance, it will be perceived, that the power required to drive the loom is but small, not more than one-third as much as in ordinary power looms. To some very learned gentlemen, this apparatus may appear, from FIGURED WEAVING. 459 its extreme simplicity, as unworthy of notice ; but if they cannot see through it theoretically they would do well to try its effects in practice. The third improvement in the Jacquard is shown at Fig. 228, and consists in placing the spring 19, on the needle, instead of at the back of it, (as at c", Fig. 98.) In Fig. 228, 17, 17, represents the common lifting hook ; 18, the needle ; 19, the spring ; 20, a wire or reed dent, inserted in the double of the needle, outside the spring; 21, the horizontal wire which supports the row of needles (as at G^G^, Fig. 95 ;) 22, a turned-up lip on the needle against which one end of the spring 19, bears, the other end bearing against the dent 20 ; 23, a small triangular piece, screwed against the bot- tom of the needle frame, to support the dents 20, and keep them from dropping through ; this piece may either be made of wood or iron ; there is also a small straight edge 24, screwed against the frame above, for the purpose of keeping the dents 20, in their pro- per place; these dents are let into small notches or cuts, made with a saw in the back of the frame, which notches should be rather larger than the thickness of the dent, in order that the dent maybe easily drawn out when required. Now, it is evident, that by pressing back the point 18, of the needle, the spring 19, will be compressed between the dent 20, and turned-up lip 22, and when the pressure is removed, the needle will instantly recover its former position, as shown in Fig. 228. By this improvement, the pattern produced on the cloth will be more perfect than in looms where a spring-box is used, such, for instance, as that shown at Z'Z', Fig. 9G ; be- cause, when the springs are placed on the needle, they do not re- quire to be of more than half the strength of those used in a wood- en box, for the following reasons : Firstly, when the spring is placed on the needle, as in Fig. 228, changes in the atmosphere will have no detrimental effect upon it such as they have on the springs A-, placed in the box Z', Fig. 90, these being liable, when com- pressed, to stick or catch on the fibres of the wood in the holes of the spring-box, in which case the needles would not be driven up against the card, and the warp threads which the needles governed would not be lifted ; consequentlj'^ the pattern would be produced imperfectly upon the cloth. In working with the spring-box, it of- ten occurs that as many as five or six springs stick in their holes at once, particularly in damp weather; secondly, when the springs are placed on the needles as shown at Fig. 228, they may be made of brass wire as fine as No. 28, whereas, with the spring-box they must be of No. 23 or 24, and even then their action is not near so 460 THE ART OF WEAVING. certain as in the former instance. AVe have worked a power loom like that shown at Figs. 218 to 221, upwards of six years, on sil/c goods, at a speed of from 110 to 120 picks of weft per minute, with springs of the description shown at Fig. 228, and we can truly say, that w^e never observed a single instance of a needle sticking back, or of a thread being misplaced in the pattern occasioned by any fault in the operation of the springs ; these springs should be two inches long and ,^d of an inch in diameter. When the spring is placed at the back of the needle, (as shown at Figs. 96 and 98;) it sometimes expands so as to become larger than the doubled end of the needle ; and when this occurs, it will partly slip on the needle at every change of the pattern, and thereby prevent the proper operation of the needle. We think it will now be seen, that our improve- ments on the Jacquard, just described, obviate several very serious defects. In a shuttle of the ordinary construction (see Fig. 224) is at- tached a brush, or tuft of hair, or similar fibrous material A*, on one side just under the bobbin, or quill i^ ; which brush, pressing against the bobbin, prevents the thread from coming off in loops or kinks. There is also aflixed a small pin m% in the side of the shuttle against which the bent wire n^, is pressed by the spring 0^, the pivot or axis being at ;;'' ; the vreft thread, after unwinding from the bobbin, passes between the bent wire 7i^, and pin m^, giv- ing it the tension required, which may be regulated by the curve of the spring o^ ; it then passes out of the shuttle through the eye in the usual way. Near the axis of the picker-sticks, is attached to the journal of the lay an adjustable iron i^, (Fig. 219) with bolts, so as to allow its position to be changed, the upper end being bent horizontal ; this rises above the fulcrum of the picker stick, which strikes against it, and stops the picker at any desired distance from the end of the shutile-box, which prevents the rebounding of the shuttle and stop- ping the loom. The manner of stopping the loom when the weft thread breaks is as follows : — Two pulleys y, (see Figs. 218 and 220) are affixed, one over the harness-board, the other just below the lower cross-bar of the loom ; around each of these pulleys is passed a short leatiier strap, and their ends are connected together by the headles or strings y^] to the front of the lower strap is fastened one end of a bent lever w, (Fig. 220) the fulcrum of which is nearly under the lower or cam shaft, the other end extends up above the cam shaft, on which and in contact with the lever, is placed a tappet z'. a^, FIGURED WEAVING. 46i (Figs. 220 and 221) is a series of strings fastened into an iron screwed to the guard-board in front of the breast beam (Fig. 220 ;) these pass through suitable dents in the reed and over the race-board, which is here cut out (see detached parts of lay, (kc, Fig. 223) so that the shuttle will pass over the strings without rub- bing them, thence through the mails in the headles y^, one half go- ing into the front or lower mails and the other half into the back ones, as in drawing the warp of a plain web with two leaves of headles; they are then extended over two grooved pulleys /i", (Figs. 220 and 221,) placed one above the other, so that all the strings which are kept separate by the grooves on the pulleys shall be en- tirely clear from each other, and passing down through a plate q^, (Fig. 220) are each attached to a separate lead weight h^ ; they are thus prevented from twisting and entangling. On the protector ii^, of the common stop motion, is formed a notch 71-, (see detached part. Fig. 219^,) and to the slide n% (Fig. 225,) constructed in the usual way, for throwing off the shipper, is attached a button /, so as to vibrate easily ; from this button is ex- tended an arm Z', under the strings a^, having an eye in its end ; to each of the lower strings is connected a small thread or wire P, the lower ends of v;hich are fastened into the eye of the arm Z' ; over the button I, is a sweep P, (Fig. 225) made in the slide-piece n^, which prevents the button from being lifted too high when in action. It will be perceived, that as the cam 2;', (Fig. 220) revolves, it throws back the upper end of the bent lever w, and raises the other end, which is united at the bottom to the strap connecting the headles y^, causing the front ones to ascend and the rear ones to descend, thus reversing the position of the strings. By this action the button /, will be raised above the slide n^, (see detached part of protector, Fig. 219J,) so as to be struck by the protector «', and ihrow off the shipper : but while the weft thread is unexpended, or unbroken, it will lie across the lower strings, intercept their rising above the upper ones, and thus prevent the button I, from coming in contact with the protector. Fig. 227, represents an improved method of working the Jac- quard, which we have found very advantageous in weaving heavy goods with warps of a sticky nature, whether of silk or wool. The object of this contrivance is, to hold open the shed until the reed comes in contact with the fell of the cloth. The cam 9, is placed on the crank shaft (instead of the eccentric b", as in Fig. 221 ;) and it is surrounded by a fork-piece 7, 7, carrying two small rollers or pulleys 8, 8 ; this fork-piece has its fulcrum at 10, where it works on 462 THE ART OF WEAVING. an axis-pin, fixed on the framing of the loom (Fig. 219 ;) the cam 9, is divided off by hnes, as shown in Fig. 227, and is so arranged that the distance between the points 11, is exactly the same as that between the points 22, 33, 44, «fcc. From this it is evident, that al- though the cam 9, is longer one way than another, yet it will work freely between the rollers S. S, and in contact with them : for ex- ample, the width of the cam on the perpendicular line (drawn across the centre of the rollers 8, 8,) is precisely the same as that between the points 11, 22, and so forth. Supposing, for example, the cam were turned round until the one point 4. came directly under the up- per roller, the opposite point 4, on the same line, would be brought directly above the centre of the other roller, rs'ow, had not the cam this shape, the lollers 8. 8, would not bear uniformly upon its cir- cumference, but would allow the under roller to fall away from it at intervals until a fuller part came into action against the roller : the the result of which would be an imperfect shed, and a continual cUtter-clatter. It is unnecessary to say more on this subject, as any practical manufacturer or loom builder will easily understand the improved mechanism, and its mode of operation. The improvements just described, and which are claimed in the patents are as follow : — Firstly, the combination formed by the rollers dd, (as shown clearly in Figs. 218 and 220) and the cloth roller e, having the pulleys d-, and e", and their axes (see Fig. 219.) connected by the belt e^, in combination with the bent lever e^, having the governing weight, for the purpose described. Secondly, the roller q^ and rods p^, connected to and in combina- tion with the weigths p^, sliding on the lever p. of the drag or fric- tion strap, for the purpose of regulating the tension on the warp beam as set forth. Thirdly, the weft pullers or tighteners, for drawing forward and straightening the thread or threads of weft, whereby the slack or loose part of each thread of weft is tightened or pulled up immedi- ately after the shuttle passes through the shed, and the bad effect arising from the diagonal line of each weft thread, after the shuttle is propelled through the shed, is prevented ; and in combination therewith the eccentric h", connected with the Jacquard by an in- flexible rod h^. for the purpose described. Fourthly, the application and arrangement called card protectors, shown in Fig. 222, for preventing the cards from being torn or damaged during the working of the loom. Fifthly, in the shuttle, the bent wire n^. acted on by the spring FIGURED WEAVING. 463 0*, in combination with the brush, or tuft of hair h^, for regulating the deUvery of the weft thread from the shuttle. Sixthly, the regulating iron i\ (Fig. 219) in combination with the picker-sticks i i, for the purpose described. Seventhly, the placing of the springs 19 (Fig. 228,) on the needles of the Jacquard, as described, instead of in a box at the back of the needles, as in Fig. 96. Eighthly, in the motion to stop the loom when the weft thread breaks or becomes expended in the shuttle, the button I, attached to the slide n^, with its sweep P, and arm Z', to and combined with the lower strings a^, as described, and set forth in the Figs. Lastly, the arrangement of mechanism for working the Jacquard, as herein above set forth, and as shown at Fig. 227. M M. Dohmme and Romagney, of Paris, obtained patents in France and Great Britain in the year 1837, for what they call, an improvement in the Jacquard, the object of which is to supersede the springs, spring-box, yyN"l. 38 wide 30 deep 8by9A'VL'. 40 wide 49detp 8bvliy?l. U- "^ ^ T 1 N il III II 1 II II 1 1 81>yllN92. 4N"2. :'8 ' iS ClieTiUle .V? 1 . 7""T 8 by5 N?] . 49 40 7-----T--"7Tr----7 /; , ■,•■ ! ' '} J 'L^-U^-.X],-~- ---'-- 7/„_z/„__i3:tT__ -JlX''-^'-TI--X- -Z/_4t__L__±_T:_ // . ^/ Z/ ' . /__// _/'' _/•'_ 1^ _/ i^^ .' l/ 1. "77""7" 77""7""""' zz::ze::zz::z2::77:: 8bvlO¥?7. 38 30 Chenille N?3 . 8bv8N?6. 34 ^ 2G 2 8by8]!f?7. 5 ■ 21 ''iiMsIied in sfuets Scfor sale by GeoDHaldmn MuTcrlc. SAiiPLEs or desi(;k i'.\i'kh 8ty6N91 50 wide 40 dt;<'p 38 wide 3 O deep vi8 wide Sudeep ; "^ ■" X 8 V10N"1. 38 wide 30df*'p 8by8N?lO. 4<)widf .so deep 8 by 10 ¥93. r>.;\n6c M deep 8bvl21\'"2. " ---";: = = = = -=-:^: 8bjl3. 30 38 EEEEEEIEEEEE: EE 8byl4N91. .?5 27 = - = = r= = -- -T .: -:= = =:=;;==E===;:=^E 9b^8. 141, 30 X X lObvlON'.'l 16 ' 36 :::::::::":""--:-- 10bvl()IVV2. 20 ■ l.-i - - - -- ----- _ 10 by 8. 4<) M ••■'leets &.for sale bv Geo.D.Balduin TevTork INSERT FOLDOUT HERE FIGURED WEAVING. 609 PRINCIPLE OF THE "TWO THREAD" OR "SPLIT HARNESS." Harness or mails. ,, ,1 ± ,t ,t g— n i, 3 ,: : i Headles or picks. Warp threads. It will be observed that this harness, though a tvjo-thread, and though the same card be twice drawn, yet each pick of weft pro- duces a differe7it effect^ and the correct action of the harness is se- cured by the use of the tweehng paper ; besides which, this paper wonderfully assists the pattern-drawer in accomplishing his work, both in speed of execution and graceful freedom of design ; objects which could not be obtained by any other means. For four-thread and damask harnesses the design paper should be chosen of a large scale, as near as possible to the size of the cloth to he jJroduced, and the designer should be more guarded in this than any other work against errors, as each will be magnified upon the cloth, whereas in fine fabrics they are diminished. For coloured patterns, a rough sketch is commonly drawn out on coarse paper, which, after all the necessary corrections are made, is traced on clean drawing paper, when it is ready for colouring. The method of tracing these sketches is as follows : prepare a sheet of wove writing paper by rubbing it over on one side, first with sweet oil, and afterwards with ground verditure ; when it is dry, lay it on the clean drawing paper, and over it the rough sketch. Then with a blunted steel point trace over all the outlines, and a very fine de- lineation of the pattern will be produced. This done, the different colours are laid on with camel's hair pencils, agreeably to the taste of the manufacturer, or to the style of work to which the patterns are to be applied. It is necessary to observe, however that, as in many kinds of patterns, particularly those intended for low priced goods, the greatest economy is frequently necessary in introducing 510 THE ART OF WEAVING. the colours, the pattern-drawer's chief study should be to produce as much effect as possible with few colours. The pigments used by pattern-drawers and designers, are, in general, the same as those which are made up into cakes, and sold in the shops under the name of water colours A table showing the various purposes to which the accompanying samples of design-paper may be applied ; or otherwise, the various qualities of goods which require these papers, is a thing much needed by many of our manufacturing friends at the present time, and we accordingly submit the following. Number of picks per inch DESCRIP- once drawn, full or one Number of picks per inch TION OP thread, and on twice on twice drawn four PAPER. drawn, split or two thread harnesses. thread harnesses. 1400 1600 1800 2000 TSiiT 1600 1800 2000 Reed Reed 32i Reed 36 Reed 404 Reed 14i Reed 16 Reed 18 Reed 204 8 by 3 28i 8 " 3i 33i 37i 42i 47i 164 181 214 234 8 " 4 38 43 484 54 19 214 24i 27 8 " 5 47i 53 1 60i 674 24 27 304 33J 8 " 6 57 64^ 72| 81 284 32i 36 404 8 " 7 66i 75i 84| 944 33i 374 424 474 8 " 8 76 86 97 108 38 43 484 54 8 " 9 85i 97 109 1214 43 484 544 60| 8 " 10 95 108 121 135 474 54 6O4 674 8 ".. 11 104i \\%\ 133 1484 524 59 664 744 8 , 12 114 129i 145 162 57 65 724 81 8 ' 13 123i 140 157i 1754 62 70 78| 87| 8 " 14 133i 151 1694 189 67i 754 844 944 8 " 16 154 172i 194 216 76 86 97 108 8 " 18 171 194 218 243 854 97 109 1214 8 " 20 190 2l5i 242 270 95 107i 121 135 6 " 6 76 86 97 108 38 43 484 54 6 '' 10 126i 143 1614 180 634 7U 81 90 6 " 20 253 286 323 360 1264 143 I6I4 180 16 " 9 42i 48 54 60| 214 24 27 304 12 " 8 50i 57 64 72 25i 284 32 36 10 " 10 76 86 97 108 38 43 484 54 10 " 12 91 103 116 130 454 524 58 65 The sample of paper marked A, shows the method of using the tweeling paper. An upright hne or warp cord runs zig-zag, embracing two tvveel hnes ; a cross line or weft thread runs straight, and a diagonal line follows the tweel so far as the nature of the figure requires in that direction, and then returns to another tweeUng hne ; the arrangement of the cords is shown in the two squares to the left hand, each diamond shape having two cords laid on it ; that is, the card-cutter never cuts less than two holes for each dot in the design paper painted, and one of these is always repeated in the next card or lash, two lines across twice drawn forming once over the tweel. INSERT FOLDOUT HERE FIGURED WEAVING. 511 The principle of chenille paper is, to give the required number of picks or threads of weft to the pattern by measurement, the paper being cut into slips, each representing a stripe of the pattern, ma- king allowance for the amount of twist to be given to the weft after being cut out of the loom and previous to its being re-woven or set, as it is called. See chenille, page 259 ; and see also description of Whytock's carpet, page 232. Paper for hearth-rugs and oil-cloth should be as large as the pat- tern is intended to be on the goods when finished. In making the foregoing table we have been as concise as possi- ble, bearing in mind that a work of this description is neither fitted for amusement, nor intended to beguile the ennui of a. tedious hour, but solely for facilitating the operations of the manufacturer and for the dispatch of business. FRENCH CARD-CUTTING MACHINE. In order to lay before our readers the most perfect method of cutting cards hitherto discovered, we made drawings while in France, of this splendid card-cutting machine (to which we alluded at page 209) ; and we trust that from the following description and the ac- companying plates, which have all been very carefully executed, the whole will be clearly understood. The card-cutting machine, with Jacquard attached, is shown in Figs. 241, 242 and 243. Fig. 241, represents a side elevation of the machine, and front of the Jacquard. Fig. 242, a front elevation of the machine (on an enlarged scale) showing a full view of the pulley-box, through the Jacquard. Fig. 243, sections of the machine and Jacquard, with pulle5'-box, needles, springs, punches, weights, &c., one side of the framing be- ing removed, to show the whole arrangement. Fig. 244, back upright section, showing the simple or reading-on cords. Fig. 245, side view, in section of the same. This may be either a separate frame, called the " lashing frame." or the lashing may be done on the simple attached to the cutting machine, without remov- ing the simple. Figs. 246 and 247, front and side elevations of an ordinary fly- press, wnth a three-thread screw, and a lead follower or platen, ex- tending the full length of the card to be cut. The same letters refer to similar parts in all the Figs. It will not be necessary to explain the arrangement and operation of the Jacquard, as that has been done elsewhere (see page 192) ; besides, it is only an auxihary to the machine under consideration. A, is a case or frame containing a series of needles, similar to those used in the Jacquard machine ; B, C, D, (Fig. 243) three thin brass perforated plates, corresponding to the front needle-board and Tig. 242. Fig: J42. 1 ' ■I IBSf ■^? '!' illlil I « 1 ILL 1 4ff1* 14 ]l ' 'IujL' "' '' R M ■ 1 i: R ' ■ ^111 p L^iii' 'I ■nil 1,1 i :|| 1 . ill -._-... i^^jj^jji^lC- .,^ Kg:244. iilii;i?i>.:i'i, M FIGURED WEAVING. 513 cylinder of the Jacquaid ; E, (Figs. 241 and 243) a thick brass or cast-iron plate, full the thickness of the length of the punches, fixed close to the cutting plate G, the cutting plate in its position, with the form or stud plate H, closed down and the punches forced into the brass plate E ; H, the stud plate (made generally of wood), with small wire studs driven or screwed into it, and corresponding to the scale of the needle board ; this stud plate has a board F, screwed to it, to prevent the studs or pins, which drive home the punches, be- ing forced back ; I, the folding joint to which the stud plate H, is attached, for the purpose of being easily thrown up when the opera- tive is about to remove the cutting plate G ; J, (Fig. 243) brass spiral springs, operating between the centre plate C, and a barb upon the needles, round which they are coiled, and forcing the needles toward the front; K, balance weights, rather more than sufficient to keep the springs J, (Fig. 243) from acting on the needles, to which the weights are attached by cords ; L, and M, guide or hole boards, through which the cords pass, dividing at M, into two, for the purpose of keeping the leads clear and from twisting or entanghng one another; N, (Fig. 243) twelve smooth glass rods or rollers, corresponding to each row or line of holes to be punched ; O, (Figs. 241 and 243) cords connecting the punch needles with the reading-on simple ; P, cords connecting the Jacquard with the punch needles; Q-, a continuation of the cords O, and P, both being at- tached above the hole board M, and either acting as it may be required upon the weights K, thereby allowing the springs J, to force the needles outward, and, consequently, the loose punches that may be necessary for the particular card from the plate E, into the cut- ting plate G ; when this is done, the stud plate H, is thrown up on its joint, thereby allowing the pimches free access into the plate G ; R, the reading-on cords or simple, on which the pattern is lashed or read ; it is attached to a roller S, at the bottom of the machine ; this roller works in two brackets, and has a ratchet T, and click U, whereby the simple can be tightened as the pattern comes to an end, the removing of the lashing or reading threads slackening tlie sim- ple gradually as they are taken olF. Tiie attachment of the simple to double cords at tlie harness board V, is to prevent the cords losing any of their twist and thereby becoming unequal in length in the course of the working ; W, a series of wire hooks for conveniently attaching the simple after coming from the reading frame — a num- ber of readers or lashers being employed for one machine, each hav- ing a simple made to suit and ready to be attached as soon as the lashing upon the simple in operation is exhausted ; X, double cords 65 514 THE ART OF WEAVING, attached to the upper part of the hooks W, to prevent the hooks turning round, and connected over the pulley-box Y, to counter- poise weights F' ; Y, the ordinary draw-loom pulley-box, containing 624 small pulleys, or any number, of course, according to the size of the Jacquard. After removing the simple from the lashing frame (Figs. 244 and 245) and attaching it to the hooks W, the train of operations is as follows : — The draw-boy seizes the lash Z, (Fig. 244) which separ- ates the required quantity of cords from the others, and he either pulls those with his hand or a rod for the purpose, thrusting it into the shed made by the lash Z, and pulUng it forward; the cords pulled glide over the pulleys of the box Y, the glass rods A', and N, (Fig. 243) raise the weights K, in the direction of the arrows, thereby relieving the springs J, which force the punches forward into the cutting plate G. The operative now seizes the plate by the handles in front, dexterously turns it on its flat, and carries it with its necessary number of punches to the fly-press (Fig. 246.) The press-boy has a blank card ready placed upon a sole plate, with the usual steady pins or guides fitting exactly to slots or holes in the plate G, which with the punches the workman places above the sole plate, shoves both under the press platen or lead follower, the boy gives a half turn of the press-arms above, and the card is perforated. Should more than one set of cards of the same pattern be wanted, the press operation is repeated according to the required number : or, when the paper is light, two cards may be cut together. The workman now seizes his plate, thrusts it into its place in front of the plate E, closes down the stud plate H, which he raises, while the draw-boy pulls the simple so as again to force out the required number of punches, and so on till the pattern is completed. The punches are prevented from falling through the plate G, by a small ruff or collar, turned upon the inner end of them. The Jacquard operates similarly to the simple, being also attached to the weights K, the springs J, and cords P ; the draw-boy working the Jacquard instead of the lashes ; it is used to advantage in re- newing a pattern, or in making duplicates after testing the merits of a design upon cloth. Fig. 244, represents the lashing-frame ; V, the hole-board (same as in Figs. 241 and 243), which is removed along with the simple into the machine and secured by bolts, seen in Fig. 241 ; B', springs for giving elasticity to the simple-cords in the operation of lashing. T'he lasher reads over the design C', (missing those cords not re- FIGURED WEAVING. 515 quired,) between the round rods D', and E',* and if there be more colours than one, as in covered-work, such as shawls, he reads on a separate lash for each colour, which lashes are generally all at- tached to what is called a bridle, (see lashing for draw-loom, page 157) forming one line across the design or pattern ; such as red, blue, green, yellow, white and black, which would constitute work of six covers, unless the ground (say black) was repeated twice, when it would be seven covers ; and seven lashes would be neces- sary to complete one pick or shot of cloth. The lasher after completing one line (if for damask, only one lash is required) proceeds with the next, until he has the whole pattern read or registered on the simple, when it is ready to be removed to the cutting machine. * It is cusiomary in England and Scotland for lashers to use a reed, cor- responding in fineness to the design paper, and into this reed they pass all the simple cords. (See reading or lashing, page 157, and Fig. 70.) In France, however, the reed is not used, rods like those represented at D', and E', (Figs. 244 and 245) being preferred, and the simple cords are passed un- der and over each of them alternately, forming a lease. The operator works over the cords between the rods with her right hand, commencing at the left eide (females only are employed in this operation in France), and taking those cords which are indicated by the design placed above. As soon as the line of pattern has been gone over, she draws the cords thus selected towards her, with her left hand, immediately below the rod E', and instantly inserts the lashing twine, and so on for each successive lash, until the pattern is com- pleted. WEFT CALCULATION TABLE. The following tables are drawn up with a view to enable the practical manufacturer to ascertain the amount of material required in making various kinds of goods. There is no mode of ascertaming the expense of the manufacture of a shawl, or similar stuff, but by calculation ; the clumsy system of weight is inadmissible, for the most heavy part, and generally the most expensive, is always shorn off previous to the finishing of the fabric. Thus, if the goods contain eight or ten regular colours, they will not weigh when finished above a seventh or an eighth of their original weight. To afford the manufacturer an exact idea of the quantity of ma- terial used, is our present motive : but that he may not go blindly by our direction, we shall place the rule before him, and he may if he choose, work out his own problems. For those, however, who are not expert in figures, the following tables, embracing almost every width of goods and quantity of picks, will hkely be of so?7ie benefit. It is well known to manufacturers of any experience, that the standard length of cotton yarn is 54 inches once round the reel, SO threads of this length forming a skein, and 7 skeins a number ; so that yarn sold as No. 20s, or 30s, should contain 20, or 30, of these numbers per pound, and anything short of this is an infringement on the established rules of trade, affording strong evidence that the spinner is dishonest. 54 inches, length of reel. SO threads per skein. 4320 inches in each skein. 7 skeins per number or hank. 36)30240 inches in each number. 840 yards of thread per number. If a different material than cotton is used, such as wool or silk, ascertain the length in inches which it will run per pound and apply the same rule : in all respectable factories this can be known exactly, as spun silk is put up the same as cotton, trame silk is of a known length and sold as such, and wool and worsted are of known lengths also ; but more allowance must be given for w^aste in using the last named materials than the former. FIGURED WEAVING. 517 To ascertain the exact amount of weft contained in any particular length of cloth, multiply the number of inches in the width of the cloth by the number of picks of weft and divide by 54 (the number of inclies in the length of the reel), by 80 (the number of threads per skein), and by 7 (the number of skeins per number) ; the quo- tient may be divided by 18 (the Nos. per spyndle), or by the Nos. of yarn per pound, and this will show the exact expense— as for ex- ample, 45 inches, width of cloth. 6,000 number of picks. 54)270,000 80)5000 7')62U '-' 7 8 0" Thus we have 8 Nos. 6^ skeins, for 6,000 picks, on cloth 45 inches in width ; but S or 10 per cent must be added for waste, &c., and with 8 per cent it would stand thus : 45 inches 6,000 picks 50+80=4,000)270,000 Qiao ^780- We next take cloth 57 inches ^vide, 8 per cent added for waste, with 95,673 picks: 95,673 picks. 57 inches. 669711 478365 50)5453361 80)10906711 7)1363l^ 18)194 f 10 4-4 i S.1 ii 518 THE ART OF WEAVING. We have no desire to use algebra in this matter, or it would be very easy to render the above a httle more scientific in appearance ; but we know the above mode of working the calculation to be cor- rect, and have no doubt that it will prove more satisfactory to the real weaver than all the logarithms and algebra in the world ; thus we have 10 spyndles, 14 numbers, 5 skeins, 27 threads and 11 inches, used in working the above number of picks, on cloth 57 inches wide. The following tables, running from 42 to 72 inches width of cloth, with the various numbers of dents contained in the different widths, and fineness of reeds running from 1200 to 2000 per 37 inches, have 10 per cent deducted as allowance for waste. Each page is headed by the particular breadth of cloth and the different reeds, with the number of dents contained in that particular breadth, so that the manufacturer has a double check, the amount of warp as well as the measurement, indicating tlie width. The first column to the left contains the number of picks, the next two, the quantity of cloth in yards, inches, and at the rates of 100 and 120 picks per inch, and the fourth, the quantity of weft required in spyndles, hanks, skeins and threads. We begin as low as 50 } icks and rise to one million, which we think sufl5ciently various foi any purpose ; and the tables are equally apphcable to plain and figured goods. For plain fabrics, ascertain the number of picks per inch and the number of inches in the width of the cloth ; say 36 inches wide goods, 50 picks per inch and 36 inches of cloth : 36 inches. 50 picks. 1800 36 inches. .10800 !'>400 50)64800 80)1296 7)16 if O 2 18 '* T « 0* Here we have 1 yard of 36 inch cloth, with 50 picks per inch, which takes 2 numbers, 2 skeins and Yi- FIGURED WEAVING. 519 We would here also submit a short rule for the calculation of warps, which may be useful, as it comes under the daily practice of every manufacturer : — Ascertain the nimiber of dents and length of warp; divide the dents by 20 (the beers); multiply by ells, (45 inches, or one and a quarter yards) ; divide the quotient by 16 ; and the result will be the quantity of numbers which the warp requires. EXAMPLES. 20)1270 warp or 2540 threads. 63^ beers. 80 ells, or 100 yards. 16)5080 317^ numbers of yarn required. 20)1760 warp. 88 beers. 100 ells, or 125 yards. 16)8800 550 numbers of yarn required. 20)1130 warp. 56^ beers. 60 ells, or 75 "ards 16)3390 211 If numbers of yarn required. The above rule gives an allowance of 5 per cent waste in winding and warping For the sake of conciseness, these tables advance by two inches at a time ; but for the purpose of rendering them applicable to breadths of any intermediate inch, a table of one inch is introduced in page 551. 520 1200 Reed 1362 Dents. 1300 1475 1 42 INCHES WIDE. I 1400 Ree 1500 115 . 17 90 Dents. 05 Picks aOANTITY OP CLOTH 1 Picks QUANTITY OF CLOTH or AT THi KATES OP WEFT or Shots of AT THE KATES 01 ■WEPT 1 Shots of 100 picks. 120 pick s. REQ, HIRED. 100 picks. 120 pick s. RBftUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch . Weft. per inch. per incli . j Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd. Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy. No Sk. 50 i 2i 43 5000 14 1 5 4 7 ^ 100 1 5 1 6 5100 15 1 6 3 7 H 200 2 1 4 2 11 5200 16 1 7 2 7 H 300 3 3 3 17 5300 17 1 8 1 8 1 400 4 3 2 4 22 5400 18 1 9 8 2 500 5 4 1 5 28 5500 19 1 9 5 8 3 600 6 5 6 33 5600 20 1 10 4 8 4 700 7 5 5 39 5700 21 1 11 3 8 5 800 8 6 4 1 44 5800 22 1 12 2 8 6 900 9 7 3 2 50 5900 23 1 13 1 9 1000 10 8 2 3 56 6000 24 1 14 9 1 1100 11 9 1 4 61 6100 25 1 14 5 9 2i 1200 12 10 5 67 6200 26 1 15 4 9 H 1300 13 10 5 6 72 6300 27 1 16 3 9 4i 1400 14 11 4 2 78 6400 28 1 17 2 9 5i 1500 15 12 3 2 2 3 6500 29 1 18 1 9 H 1600 16 13 2 2 3 9 6600 30 1 19 10 1 1700 17 14 1 2 4 14 6700 31 1 19 5 10 1| 1800 18 15 2 5 20 6800 32 1 20 4 10 2| 1900 19 15 5 2 6 26 6900 33 1 21 3 10 H 2000 20 16 4 3 31 7000 34 1 22 2 10 4} 2100 21 17 3 3 1 37 7100 35 1 23 1 10 6 2200 22 18 2 3 2 42 7200 2 1 24 11 2300 23 19 1 3 3 48 7300 2 1 1 24 5 11 1 2400 24 20 3 4 53 7400 2 2 1 25 4 11 2 2500 25 20 5 3 5 59 7500 2 3 1 26 3 11 3i 2600 26 21 4 3 6 64 7600 2 4 1 27 2 11 4i 2700 27 22 3 4 70 7700 2 5 1 28 1 11 5i 2800 28 23 2 4 1 76 7800 2 6 1 29 11 6i 2900 29 24 1 4 3 1 7900 2 7 1 29 5 12 Oi 3000 30 25 4 4 7 8000 2 8 1 30 4 12 H 3100 31 25 5 4 5 12 8100 2 9 1 31 3 12 2i 3200 32 26 4 4 6 18 8200 2 10 1 32 2 12 H 3300 33 27 3 5 23 8300 2 11 1 33 1 12 4| 3400 34 28 2 5 1 29 8400 o 12 1 34 12 5| 3500 35 29 1 5 2 34 8500 2 13 1 34 5 13 3600 1 30 5 3 40 8600 2 14 1 35 4 13 1 3700 1 1 30 5 5 4 46 8700 2 15 2 3 13 2 3800 1 2 31 4 5 5 51 8800 2 16 2 1 2 13 3 3900 1 3 32 3 5 6 57 8900 2 17 2 2 1 13 44 4000 1 4 33 2 6 62 9000 2 18 2 3 13 5i 4100 1 5 34 1 6 1 68 9100 2 19 2 3 5 13 Gi 4200 1 6 35 6 2 75 9200 2 20 2 4 4 14 Oi 4300 1 7 35 5 6 3 79 9300 2 21 2 5 3 14 H 4400 1 8 1 4 6 5 4 9400 2 22 2 6 2 14 2i 4500 1 9 I 1 3 6 6 10 9500 2 23 2 7 1 14 3i 4600 1 10 1 2 2 7 16 9600 2 24 2 8 14 4i 4700 1 11 1 3 1 7 1 21 9700 2 25 2 8 5 14 51 4800 1 12 1 4 7 2 27 9800 2 26 2 9 4 14 6| 4900 1 13 1 4 5 7 3 32 9900 2 27 2 10 3 15 1 521 1600 Reed 1815 Dents. 1700 1930 \ 42 INCHES WIDE. J ^ '''!' |So """!" Picks aUANTITV OF CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots of AT THB RATES OF WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT 100 picks 120 pick s REftDlRED. 100 picks 120 pic is REHUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. pt-r inch. per inc fl. Thsds. Yds. In. Yd.?. In. jihs. Spy. No. Sk. Tlisds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 13ihs. Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 15 2 510 141 24 118 2 43 5 1 20 5 20 4 22 4 1 12 4 520 144 16 120 13 2 44 2 3 30 8 12 6 34 2 9 5| 530 147 8 122 24 4 44 17 5 40 11 4 9 9 2 3 7 Of 1 540 150 U 125 45 15 50 13 32 11 20 4 4 4 2| 550 152 28 127 11 2 46 12 2 60 16 24 13 32 5 1 4| 1 560 155 20 129 22 4 47 9 4 70 19 16 16 7 2 5 16 6i 570 158 12 131 34 48 6 5| 80 22 8 18 18 4 6 14 li 580 161 4 134 9 2 49 4 C| 90 25 20 30 7 11 3i 590 163 32 136 20 4 50 2 2| 100 27 28 23 5 2 8 8 5i 600 166 24 138 32 50 16 4| 110 30 20 25 16 4 9 6 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 51 13 6i 120 33 12 27 28 10 3 2i 620 172 8 143 18 4 52 11 li 130 36 4 30 3 2 11 4^ 630 175 145 30 53 8 3i 140 38 32 32 14 4 11 15 6i 640 177 28 148 5 2 54 5 5i 150 41 24 34 26 12 13 H 650 180 20 150 16 4 55 3 l| 160 44 16 37 1 2 13 10 3 660 183 12 152 28 56 2^ 170 47 8 39 12 4 14 7 5 670 186 4 155 3 2 56 15 4i 180 50 41 24 15 5 680 188 32 157 14 4 57 12 ti 190 52 28 43 35 2 16 2 2 690 191 24 159 26 58 10 li 200 55 20 46 10 4 16 17 4 700 194 16 162 1 2 59 7 3 210 58 12 48 22 17 14 5| 710 197 8 164 12 4 60 4 5 220 61 4 50 33 2 18 12 Of 720 200 166 24 61 2 230 63 32 53 8 4 19 9 2| 730 202 28 168 35 2 61 17 2 240 66 24 55 20 20 6 4| 740 205 20 171 10 4 62 14 4 250 69 16 57 31 2 21 3 6i 750 208 12 173 22 63 11 5| 260 72 8 60 6 4 22 1 li 760 211 4 175 33 2 64 9 C| 270 75 62 18 22 16 3i 770 213 32 178 8 4 65 6 2| 280 77 28 64 29 2 23 13 5i 780 216 24 180 20 66 3 -Jf 290 80 20 67 4 4 24 11 Oi 790 219 16 182 31 2 67 t'i 300 83 12 69 16 25 8 2i 800 222 8 185 6 4 67 16 li 310 86 4 71 27 2 26 5 4^ 810 225 187 18 68 13 3i 320 88 32 74 2 4 27 2 6i 820 227 28 189 29 2 69 10 5i 330 91 24 76 14 28 1 830 230 20 192 4 4 70 8 Oi 340 94 16 78 25 2 28 15 3 840 233 12 194 16 71 5 H 350 97 8 81 4 29 12 5 850 236 4 196 27 2 72 2 4i 360 100 83 12 30 10 860 238 32 199 2 4 72 17 6i 370 102 28 85 23 2 31 7 2 870 241 24 201 14 73 15 1 380 105 20 87 34 4 32 4 4 880 244 16 203 25 2 74 12 3 390 108 12 90 10 33 1 5| 890 247 8 206 4 75 9 5 400 111 4 92 21 2 33 17 Of 900 250 208 12 76 7 410 113 32 94 32 4 34 14 2J 910 252 28 210 23 2 77 4 2 420 116 24 97 8 3.3 11 4| 920 255 20 212 34 4 78 1 4 430 119 16 99 19 2 36 8 6i 930 253 12 215 10 78 16 5| 440 122 8 101 30 4 37 6 li 940 261 4 217 21 2 79 14 0} 450 125 104 6 38 3 3i 950 263 32 219 3<2 4 80 11 2J 460 127 28 106 17 2 39 5i 960 266 24 222 8 81 8 4| 470 130 20 108 28 4 39 16 Oi 970 269 16 224 19 2 82 5 6i 480 133 12 111 4 40 13 2i 980 272 8 226 30 4 83 3 li 490 136 4 113 15 2 41 10 4i 990 275 229 6 84 3i 500 138 32 115 26 4 42 7 Ei iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 84 15 5i 66 522 1200 1300 Reed 1426 Dents. 1545 \ 44 INCHES WIDE. S 1400 Reed 1666 Dents. } 1500 17&7 Picks { aCASTITY OF CLOTH Picks atTANTITY OF CLOTH or AT THE RATES OF WEFT 1 or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT Shots of 100 picks 1-30 pick s REaOlRED. j 100 picks 13) pick s RE%CIB%D. i Weft. per i acn. per incl . 1 Weft. per inch. per inch. _ Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd.i Yds . In. Yds. In. 6lhs. Spy. No .Sk. 50 i 2i 45 5000 14 1 5 4 U 8 Of 100 1 5 1 10 5100 15 1 6 3 8 U 200 2 1 4 2 19 ' 5200 16 1 7 2 8 H 300 3 2 3 3 29 1 5300 17 1 8 1 8 H 400 4 3 2 4 39 1 t 5400 18 1 9 8 4i 500 5 4 1 5 48 ' 5500 19 1 9 5 8 5i 600 6 5 6 58 : 5600 20 1 10 4 8 ej 700 7 5 5 1 67 ■■ 5700 21 1 11 3 9 1 800 8 6 4 1 1 77 5S00 22 1 12 2 9 2 900 9 7 3 1 3 7 5900 23 1 13 1 9 3 1000 10 8 2 1 4 16 ; 6000 24 1 14 9 4i 1100 11 9 1 1 5 26 1 6100 25 1 14 5 9 5i 1200 12 10 1 6 36 1 6200 26 1 15 4 9 ei 1300 13 10 5 2 45 1 6300 27 1 16 3 10 H 1400 14 11 4 2 1 55 6400 28 1 17 2 10 H 1500 15 12 3 2 2 64 ■' 6500 29 1 18 1 10 3 1600 16 13 2 2 3 74 i 6600 30 1 19 10 4 1700 17 14 1 5 4 6700 31 1 19 5 10 5 1800 18 15 2 6 13 . 6800 32 1 20 4 10 a 1900 19 15 5 3 23 1 6900 33 1 21 3 11 H 2000 20 16 4 3 1 33 i 7000 34 1 22 2 11 ^ 2100 21 17 3 3 2 42 7100 35 1 23 1 11 n 2200 22 18 2 3 3 52 7200 2 1 24 11 3i 2300 23 19 1 3 4 62 7300 2 1 1 24 5 11 ■41 2400 24 20 3 5 71 1 7400 2 2 1 25 4 11 6 2500 25 20 5 4 i! 7500 2 3 1 26 3 12 2600 26 21 4 4 1 10 7600 2 4 1 27 2 12 1 2700 27 22 3 4 2 20 7700 2 5 1 28 1 12 2i 2880 28 23 2 4 3 30 7800 2 6 1 29 12 H 2900 29 24 1 4 4 39 7900 2 7 1 29 5 12 H 3000 30 25 4 5 49 8000 2 8 1 30 4 12 5i 3100 31 25 5 4 6 59 8100 2 9 1 31 3 12 6| 3200 32 26 4 5 68 8200 2 10 1 32 2 13 1 3300 33 27 3 5 1 78 8300 2 11 1 33 1 13 2 3400 34 28 2 5 3 7 8400 2 12 1 34 13 3 3500 35 29 1 5 4 17 8500 2 13 1 34 5 13 H 3600 30 5 5 27 8600 2 14 1 35 4 13 H 3700 1 30 5 5 6 36 8700 2 15 2 3 13 H 3800 2 31 4 6 48 , 8800 2 16 2 1 2 14 H 3900 3 32 3 6 1 56 1 1 8900 2 17 2 2 1 14 i| 4000 4 33 2 6 2 65 1 9000 2 18 2 3 14 2| 4100 5 34 1 6 3 75 9100 2 19 2 3 5 14 4 4200 6 35 6 5 4 9200 2 20 2 4 4 14 5 4300 7 35 5 6 6 14 . 9300 2 21 2 5 3 14 e* 4400 8 1 4 7 24 9400 2 22 2 6 2 15 H 4500 9 1 1 3 7 1 33 , 9500 2 23 2 7 1 15 n 4600 10 1 2 o 7 2 43 9600 2 24 2 8 15 2i 4700 11 1 3 1 7 3 53 9700 2 25 2 8 5 15 H 4800 1 12 1 4 7 4 62 9800 2 26 2 9 4 15 ^ 4900 1 1 i 13 1 4 5 7 1 572I 9900 2 27 2 10 3 15 ' 523 ! 1600 Reed 1901 Dents 1700 2022 I AA TMPHF^: winir ^ 1^00 Reed 2143 Dents. J 44 INCHES, WIDE, j ^000 2378 Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH or Shots of AT THE RATES Of WEPT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEFT 100 picks 120 pick s REQUIRED. 100 picks 120 picl (8 REQUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 5ths. Spy. No. Sk. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No.Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 16 510 141 24 118 2 45 6 2 20 5 20 4 22 4 1 14 520 144 16 120 13 2 46 4 2 30 8 12 6 34 2 12 530 147 8 122 24 4 47 2 2 40 11 4 9 9 2 3 10 Oi 540 1.50 125 48 2 50 13 32 11 20 4 4 8 Oi 550 152 28 127 11 2 48 16 2 60 16 24 13 32 5 6 Oi 560 155 20 129 22 4 49 14 2 70 19 16 16 7 2 6 4 Oi 570 158 12 131 34 50 12 2 80 22 8 18 18 4 7 2 Oi \ 580 161 4 134 9 2 51 10 2 90 25 20 30 8 Oi 1 590 163 32 136 20 4 52 8 2 100 27 23 23 5 2 8 16 Oi 1 600 166 24 138 32 53 6 2i 110 30 20 25 16 4 9 14 Oi ! 610 169 16 141 7 2 54 4 2i 120 33 12 27 28 10 12 i^ 620 172 8 143 18 4 55 2 2i 130 36 4 30 3 2 11 10 Oi 630 175 145 30 56 2i 140 38 32 32 14 4 12 8 Oi ' 640 177 28 148 5 2 56 16 2i 150 41 24 34 26 13 6 Oi 650 180 20 150 16 4 57 14 2i 160 44 16 37 1 2 14 4 Oi ! 660 183 12 152 28 58 12 2i 170 47 8 39 12 4 15 2 Oi ! 670 186 4 155 3 2 59 10 2i 180 50 41 24 16 0| G80 188 32 157 14 4 60 8 2i 190 52 28 43 35 2 16 16 0| 690 191 24 159 26 61 6 2i 200 55 20 46 10 4 17 14 Of 700 194 16 162 1 2 62 4 2i 210 53 12 48 22 18 12 Of 710 197 8 164 12 4 63 2 2i 220 61 4 50 33 2 19 10 Of' 720 200 1G6 24 64 2i 230 63 32 53 8 4 20 8 Of 730 202 28 1S8 35 2 64 16 2i 240 66 24 55 20 21 6 1 i 740 205 20 171 10 4 65 14 2| 250 69 16 57 31 2 22 4 1 ; 750 208 12 173 22 66 12 2i 260 72 8 60 6 4 23 2 1 760 211 4 175 33 2 67 10 2| 270 75 62 18 24 1 770 213 .32 178 8 4 68 8 2| 280 77 28 64 29 2 24 16 1 780 216 24 180 20 69 6 2| 290 80 20 67 4 4 25 14 1 790 219 16 182 31 2 70 4 3 300 83 12 69 16 26 12 1 800 222 8 185 6 4 71 2 3 310 86 4 71 27 2 27 10 1 810 225 187 18 72 3 320 88 32 74 2 4 28 8 1 820 227 28 189 29 2 72 16 3 330 91 24 76 14 29 6 li 83(1 230 20 192 4 4 73 14 3 340 94 16 78 25 2 30 4 li 840 2.33 12 194 16 74 12 3 350 97 8 81 4 31 2 li 850 236 4 196 27 2 75 10 3 360 100 83 12 32 li 860 238 32 199 2 4 76 8 3 370 102 28 85 23 2 32 16 li 870 241 24 201 14 77 6 3i 380 105 20 87 34 4 33 14 li 880 244 16 203 25 78 4 3i 390 108 12 90 10 .34 12 li 890 247 8 20fi 4 79 2 3i 400 111 4. 92 21 2 35 10 li 900 250 208 12 80 3i 410 113 32 94 32 4 36 8 li 910 252 28 210 23 2 80 16 3i 420 116 24 97 8 37 6 li 920 255 20 212 .34 4 81 14 3i 430 119 16 99 19 2 38 4 li 930 258 12 215 10 82 12 ;ji 440 122 8 101 30 4 39 2 li 940 261 4 217 21 2 83 10 3i 450 125 104 6 40 1| 950 263 32 219 .32 4 i 1 84 8 3i 460 127 28 106 17 2 40 16 If 960 266 24 222 8 1 85 6 3i 470 130 20 108 23 4 41 14 1| 970 269 16 224 19 2 86 4 2i 480 133 12 111 4 42 12 IJ 980 272 8 ! 226 30 4 87 2 3i 490 136 4 113 15 2 43 10 1| 990 275 ! 229 6 88 3i 500 138 32 115 26 4 44 8 l|l iMill. 277 28 : 231 17 2 88 16 3 J 524 1 1200 1300 Reed 1490 Dents. 1615 \ 46 INCHES WIDE. ! 1400 Reed 1742 Dents. } 1500 IbTl i 1 Picks aCANTITY OF CLOTH 1 Picks aUANTlTY OF CLOTH or AT THE RATES OF WEFT j or Shots AT THE BATES OP WEPT II Shots of 100 picks 120 picks REaniRED. j Of 100 r icks 120 pick s REtlflEED. I! Weft. per inch. per inch . Weft. per inch. per inch. I Yds In. Yds In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd. Y'ds III. Yds. In. 6ihs. jSpy.No .Sk. 50 i 2i 47 5000 14 1 5 4 8 2i 100 1 5 1 14 5100 15 1 6 3 8 3| 200 o 1 4 2 27 5200 16 1 7 2 8 5 300 3 2 3 3 41 5300 17 1 8 1 8 6 400 4 3 2 4 55 5400 18 1 9 9 Oi 500 5 4 1 5 68 5500 19 1 9 5 9 H 600 6 5 1 2 5600 20 1 10 4 9 H 700 7 5 5 1 1 16 5700 21 1 11 3 9 H 800 8 6 4 1 2 30 5800 22 1 12 2 9 5 900 9 7 3 1 3 43 5900 23 1 13 1 9 6 1000 10 8 2 1 4 57 6000 24 1 14 10 Oi 1100 11 9 1 1 5 71 6100 25 1 14 5 10 li 1200 12 10 2 4 6200 26 1 15 4 10 Si 1300 13 10 5 2 1 18 6300 27 1 16 3 10 3| 1400 14 11 4 2 2 32 6400 28 1 17 2 10 5 1500 15 12 3 2 3 46 6500 29 1 18 1 10 6 1600 16 13 2 2 4 59 6600 30 1 19 11 H 1700 17 14 1 2 5 73 6700 31 1 19 5 11 li 1800 18 15 3 7 6800 32 1 20 4 11 2i 1900 19 15 5 3 1 20 6900 33 1 21 3 11 3| 2000 20 16 4 3 2 34 7000 34 1 22 2 11 5 2100 21 17 3 3 3 48 7100 35 1 23 1 11 6 2200 22 18 2 3 4 62 7200 2 1 24 12 Oi 2300 23 19 1 3 5 75 7300 2 1 1 24 5 12 H 2400 24 20 4 9 1 7400 2 2 1 25 4 ]2 2i 2500 25 20 5 4 1 23 7500 2 3 1 26 3 12 3i 2600 26 21 4 4 2 36 7600 2 4 1 27 2 12 5 2700 27 22 3 4 3 50 7700 2 5 1 28 1 12 6i 2800 28 23 2 4 4 64 7800 2 6 1 29 13 Oi 2900 29 24 1 4 5 77 7900 2 7 1 29 5 13 n 3000 30 25 5 11 8000 2 8 1 30 4 13 2i 3100 31 25 5 5 1 25 8100 2 9 1 31 3 13 H 3200 32 26 4 5 2 39 8200 2 10 1 32 2 13 5 3300 33 27 3 5 3 52 1 8300 2 11 1 33 1 13 6i 3400 34 28 2 5 4 66 1 8400 2 12 1 34 14 Oi 3500 35 29 1 5 6 8500 2 13 1 34 5 14 li 3600 30 6 13 8600 2 14 1 35 4 14 2i 3700 1 30 5 6 1 27 8700 2 15 2 3 14 3| 3800 2 31 4 6 2 41 8800 2 16 2 1 2 14 5 3900 3 32 3 6 3 64 8900 2 17 2 2 1 U 14 6i 4000 4 33 2 6 4 68 9000 2 IS 2 3 15 H 4100 5 34 1 6 6 2 9100 2 19 2 3 5 15 n 4200 1 1 6 35 7 16 , 9200 2 20 2 4 4 15 n 4300 7 35 5 7 1 29 9300 2 21 2 5 i» 15 H 4400 I 1 8 1 4 7 2 43 9400 2 22 2 6 2 15 5 4500 9 1 3 7 3 57 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1.1 fi 4600 1 1 10 2 2 7 4 70 9600 2 24 2 8 16 H 4700 11 3 1 7 6 4 9700 2 25 2 8 5 16 U 4800 1 12 4 8 18 9800 2 26 2 9 4 16 2| 4900 1 - 1 1 13 4 5 8 1 32 9900 2 27 2 10 3 16 4 i 525 1600 Reed 1987 Dents 1700 2114 1 46 INCHES WIDE. | ^f^ ^^^ f^^\ »-^- Picks aUANHTY OP CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OF CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES 01 WEPT or Shots AT THE RATES OP WEPT of 100 picks iL^O pick s REQUIRED. of ino picks 120 iiioks REaUlRED. Wert. per iiicti. per iiicl 1. Weft. per inch. per inc 1. Thsds. Yds. In. Yd5. In. iths. Spy. No. Sk. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy. No.Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 16 5 510 141 24 118 2 47 7 2i 20 5 20 4 22 4 1 15 3i 520 144 16 120 13 2 48 6 0| 30 8 12 6 34 2 14 2i 530 147 8 122 24 4 49 4 5| 40 11 4 9 9 2 3 12 6i 540 150 125 50 3 4 50 13 32 11 20 4 4 11 4i 550 152 28 127 11 2 51 2 2 60 16 24 13 32 5 10 2| 560 155 20 129 22 4 52 1 Oi 70 19 16 16 7 2 6 9 1 570 158 12 131 34 52 17 5i 80 22 8 18 18 4- 7 7 6 580 161 4 134 9 2 53 16 3i 90 25 20 30 8 6 4^ 590 163 32 136 20 4 54 15 li 100 27 28 23 5 9 5 2i 600 166 24 138 32 55 13 6| 110 30 20 25 16 4 10 4 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 56 12 5 120 33 12 27 28 11 2 5i 620 172 8 143 18 4 57 11 3 130 36 4 30 3 2 12 1 3i 630 175 145 30 58 10 1 140 38 32 32 14 4 13 1| 640 177 28 148 5 2 59 8 6i 150 41 24 34 26 13 17 650 180 20 150 16 4 60 7 4i 160 44 16 37 1 2 14 15 5 660 183 12 152 28 61 6 2i 170 47 8 39 12 4 15 14 3i 670 186 4 155 3 2 62 5 Oi 180 50 41 24 16 13 H 680 188 32 157 14 4 63 3 5i 190 52 28 43 35 2 17 11 6i 690 191 24 159 26 64 2 4 200 55 20 46 10 4 18 10 4i 700 194 16 162 1 2 65 1 2 210 58 12 48 22 19 9 2| 710 197 8 164 12 4 66 Oi 220 61 4 50 33 2 20 8 0| 720 200 166 24 66 16 5i 230 63 32 53 8 4 21 6 6 730 202 28 168 35 2 67 15 3i 240 66 24 55 20 22 5 4 740 205 20 171 10 4 68 14 li 250 69 16 57 31 2 23 4 2i 750 208 12 173 22 69 12 6i 260 72 8 60 6 4 24 3 Oi 760 211 4 175 33 2 70 11 4J 1 270 75 62 18 25 1 5i 770 213 32 178 8 4 71 10 3 280 77 28 64 29 2 25 17 3i 780 216 24 180 20 72 9 1 290 80 20 67 4 4 26 16 3i 790 219 16 182 31 2 73 7 6i 300 83 12 69 16 27 15 1| 800 222 8 185 6 4 74 6 4i 310 86 4 71 27 28 14 5 810 225 187 18 75 5 2i 320 88 32 74 2 4 29 13 3 820 227 28 189 29 2 76 4 Oi 330 91 24 76 14 30 12 H 830 230 20 192 4 4 77 2 5| 340 94 16 78 25 31 10 6i 840 233 12 194 16 78 1 3i 350 97 8 81 4 32 9 4i 850 236 4 196 27 2 79 2 360 100 83 12 33 8 2| 860 238 32 199 2 4 79 17 370 102 28 85 23 34 7 0| 870 241 24 201 14 80 15 5i 380 105 20 87 34 4 35 5 6 880 244 16 203 25 2 81 14 3i 390 108 12 90 10 36 4 4 890 247 8 206 4 82 13 H 400 111 4 92 21 37 3 2i 900 250 208 12 83 11 6i 410 113 32 94 32 4 38 2 Oi 910 252 28 210 23 2 84 10 4| 420 116 24 97 8 39 5i 920 255 20 212 34 4 85 9 2| 430 119 16 99 19 2 39 17 3i 930 258 12 215 10 86 8 I 440 122 8 101 30 4 40 16 1| 940 261 4 217 21 2 87 6 6 450 125 104 6 41 14 61 950 263 32 219 32 4 88 5 4i 460 127 28 106 17 2 42 13 5 960 266 24 222 8 89 4 2i 470 130 20 108 28 4 43 12 3 970 269 16 224 19 2 90 3 Oi 480 133 12 111 4 44 11 H 980 272 8 226 30 4 SI 1 5i 490 136 4 113 15 o 45 9 6i 990 275 1 229 6 92 31 500 138 32 115 26 4 46 8 4i iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 t 92 17 2 526 1-20C : 130C Reed 1564 DenU. 1660 1 48 I>XHES WIDE. S 1400 Reed 1^ 1500 19 13 Dents. 53 \ Picks aUAXTITT OF CLOTH Picks ftUANTlTT OF CLOTH 1 °^ AT THE RATBS OF WEFT or Shou AT THE RATES OF WEFT 1 Shots ,1 of 100 picks 120 pick s REaCIEED. 1 of 100 picks 120 picks REdUIBED. 1 jj Weft. per i uch. per incl I. 1 Weft. per I nch. per inch. _ Yds In. Tds In. 6ihs. No. Sk.Thd.i Yds . In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy. No. Sk. 1 50 i ■2i U 45' 5000 14 1 5 4 8 5 100 1 5 1 18 5100 15 1 6 3 8 H 200 2 1 4 2 36 5200 16 1 7 2 9 Oi 300 3 o 3 3 53 5300 17 1 8 1 9 H 400 4 3 2 4 71 5400 18 1 9 9 3 500 5 4 1 6 9 1 5500 19 1 9 5 9 4i 600 6 5 1 27 i 5600 20 1 10 4 9 5i 700 7 5 5 1 1 44 5700 21 1 11 3 9 6i 800 8 6 4 1 2 62 5500 22 1 12 2 10 Cij 1 900 1 9 ( 3 1 4 5900 23 1 13 1 10 2 1000 10 8 2 1 5 18 i 6000 24 1 14 10 3i 1100 11 9 1 1 6 36 6100 25 1 14 5 10 4i 1200 12 10 2 53 6200 26 1 15 4 10 5| ' 1300 13 10 5 2 1 71 6300 27 1 16 3 11 1400 14 11 4 2 3 9 ! 6400 28 1 17 2 11 H 1500 15 12 3 2 4 27 6500 29 1 18 1 11 2i I 1600 16 13 2 2 5 44 : 6600 30 1 19 11 H ; 1700 17 14 1 2 6 62 6700 31 1 19 5 11 5 1 1800 18 15 3 1 6300 32 1 20 4 11 6 1900 19 15 5 3 2 18 6900 33 1 21 3 12 Oi 2000 20 16 4 3 3 36 7000 34 1 22 2 12 li 2100 21 17 3 3 4 53 7100 35 1 23 1 12 2| 2200 22 18 2 3 5 71 7200 2 1 24 12 4 2300 23 19 1 4 9 7300 2 1 1 24 5 12 5i 2400 24 20 4 1 27 7400 2 2 1 25 4 12 6i' 2500 25 20 5 4 2 44 7500 2 3 1 26 3 13 Oi 2600 26 21 4 4 3 62 7600 2 4 1 27 2 13 2 2700 27 22 3 4 5 7700 2 5 1 23 1 13 3 2800 28 23 2 4 6 18 7800 2 6 1 29 13 4i 2900 29 24 1 5 36 , 7900 2 1 1 29 5 13 H 3000 30 25 5 1 53 8000 2 8 1 30 4 13 6J 3100 31 25 5 5 2 71 8100 2 9 1 31 3 14 I 3200 32 26 4 5 4 9 j 8200 2 10 1 32 2 14 2i 3300 33 27 3 5 5 27 8300 2 11 1 33 1 14 H 3400 34 28 2 5 6 44 8400 2 12 1 34 14 H 3500 35 29 1 6 62 8500 2 13 1 34 5 14 6 3600 30 6 2 8600 2 14 1 35 4 15 3700 1 30 5 6 3 18 8700 2 15 2 3 15 H 3800 2 31 4 6 4 36 8600 2 16 2 1 2 15 H 3900 3 32 3 6 5 53 8900 2 17 2 2 1 15 3J 4000 4 33 2 6 6 71 9000 2 18 2 3 15 5 4100 5 34 1 7 1 9 9100 2 19 2 3 5 15 6i 4200 6 35 7 2 27 9200 2 20 2 4 4 16 Oi 4300 7 35 5 7 3 44 9300 2 21 2 5 3 16 li 4400 8 ' 4 1 4 62 9400 2 22 2 6 2 16 2| 4500 9 1 3 7 6 9500 2 23 2 7 1 16 4 4600 10 2 2 '8 18 9600 2 24 2 8 16 :>i 4700 - 11 3 1 8 1 36 9700 2 25 2 8 5 16 6i 4S00 i . 12 4 8 2 53 9800 2 26 2 9 4 17 Of 4900 i ^ 13 4 5 8 3 71 9900 2 27 2 10 3 17 2 527 1600 Reed 2073 Dents. ) 1700 22UG \ 48 INCHES WIDE. J ^JJJ ^''^ 2^4^'"*'' Picks aUANTITV OP CLOTH Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH or Slidts AT THE RATES OF WEPT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEFT oC 100 pick. 120 picks REaUlRED. 1(X) picks 120 picks REaUIRED. Weft. per inch per inch. Weft Thsds per inch. per inch. Thisds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk . Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths . Spy. No. Sk. IC 2 28 2 11 2 17 3^ 51C ) 141 24 118 2 49 8 3i 20 5 20 4 22 4 1 16 6J 52C 144 16 120 13 2 50 7 6i 3C 8 12 6 34 2 16 2l 53C 147 8 122 24 4 51 7 2| 4C 11 4 9 9 2 3 15 6 54C 150 125 52 6 6 50 13 32 11 20 4 4 15 2 55C 152 28 127 11 2 53 6 2i 60 16 24 13 32 5 14 5i 56C 155 20 129 22 4 54 5 H 70 19 16 16 7 2 6 14 1^ 570 158 12 131 34 55 5 1| 80 22 8 18 18 4 7 13 4| 580 161 4 134 9 2 56 4 5 90 25 20 30 8 13 1 590 163 32 136 20 4 57 4 1 100 27 28 23 5 2 9 12 li 600 166 24 138 32 58 3 4i 110 30 20 25 16 4 10 12 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 59 3 04 120 33 12 27 28 11 11 3| 620 172 8 143 18 4 60 2 3| 130 36 4 30 3 2 12 11 630 175 145 30 61 2 140 38 32 32 14 4 13 10 3 640 177 28 148 5 2 62 1 3i 150 41 24 34 26 14 9 6i 650 180 20 150 16 4 63 64 160 44 16 37 1 2 15 9 2i 660 183 12 152 28 64 2| 170 47 8 39 12 4 16 8 5i 670 186 4 155 3 2 64 17 6 180 50 41 24 17 8 2 680 188 32 157 14 4 65 17 2 190 52 28 43 35 2 18 7 5i 690 191 24 159 26 66 16 5i 200 55 20 46 10 4 19 7 li 700 194 16 162 1 2 67 16 14 210 58 12 48 22 20 6 4i 710 197 8 164 12 4 68 15 4| 220 61 4 50 33 2 21 6 1 720 200 166 24 69 15 1 230 63 32 53 8 4 22 5 4 730 202 28 168 35 2 70 14 4i 240 66 24 55 20 23 5 0^ 740 205 20 171 10 4 71 14 04 250 69 Ifi 57 31 2 24 4 3i 750 208 12 173 22 72 13 3| 260 72 8 60 6 4 25 3 6| 760 211 4 175 33 2 73 13 270 75 62 18 26 3 3 770 213 32 178 8 4 74 12 3 280 77 28 64 29 2 27 2 Ci 780 216 24 180 20 75 11 6i 290 80 20 67 4 4 28 2 2i 790 219 16 182 31 2 76 11 24 300 83 12 69 16 29 1 5i 800 222 8 185 6 4 77 10 5| 310 86 4 71 27 2 30 1 ^ 810 225 187 18 78 10 1 320 88 32 74 2 4 31 5 820 227 28 189 29 2 79 9 4i 330 91 24 76 14 32 2i 830 230 20 192 4 4 80 9 04 340 94 16 78 25 2 32 17 5i 840 233 12 194 16 81 8 34 350 97 8 81 4 33 17 1| 850 236 4 196 27 2 82 8 360 100 83 12 34 16 5 860 238 32 199 2 4 83 7 3 370 102 23 85 23 2 35 16 H 870 241 24 201 14 84 6 ei 380 105 20 87 34 4 36 15 44 880 244 16 203 25 2 85 6 24 390 108 12 90 10 37 15 Oi 890 247 8 206 4 86 5 5i 400 111 4 92 21 2 38 14 3 900 250 208 12 87 5 3 410 113 32 94 32 4 39 13 6 910 252 28 210 23 2 88 4 Si 1 420 116 24 97 8 40 12 2i 920 255 20 212 34 4 89 4 24 430 119 16 99 19 2 41 11 5i 930 258 12 215 10 90 3 5| 440 122 8 101 30 4 42 11 1| 940 261 4 217 21 2 91 3 2 450' 125 104 6 43 11 5 950 263 32 219 32 4 92 2 5 460 1 127 28 106 17 2 44 11 H 960 266 24 222 8 93 2 H 470' 130 20 108 28 4 45 10 44 970 269 16 224 19 2 94 1 44 I 480 133 12 111 4 46 10 Oi 980 272 8 226 30 4 95 1 0^ 490 136 4 113 15 2 47 9 4 990 275 229 6 96 4i 500 138 32 115 26 4 48 9 iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 97 528 1200 130U Reed 1618 Dents. 1755 1 50 INCHES WIDE. i 1400 Reed 1894 Dents. 1500 i03o ! Picks aOANTlTY OF CLOTH 1 Picks aUANTlTT OF CLOTH 1 or AT THE RATES OF WEFT 1 or Shots AT THE KATES OF WEFT 1 1 Shots I of 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. 1 of 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. 1 Weft. per inch. per iiirf 1 _ 1 1 Weft. per inch. per inch. Yds. In. Yds m. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd.l Yds In. Yds. In. Oths. Spy. No Sk 50 h 2i 51 : 5000 14 1 5 4 U 9 L| 100 1 5 1 22 5100 15 1 6 3 9 2 200 2 1 4 2 44 5200 16 1 7 2 9 H 300 3 2 3 3 66 530U 17 1 8 1 9 H 400 4 3 2 5 8 5400 18 1 9 9 H 500 5 4 1 6 30 5500 19 1 9 5 10 600 6 5 1 52 ! 5600 20 1 10 4 10 H 700 7 5 5 1 1 73 i 5700 21 1 11 3 10 2i 800 8 6 4 1 3 15 5800 22 1 12 2 10 H 900 9 7 3 1 4 37 5900 23 1 13 1 10 5 1000 10 8 2 1 5 59 6000 24 1 14 10 ei\ 1100 11 9 1 2 1 6100 25 1 14 5 11 (J| 1200 12 10 2 1 22 6200 26 1 15 4 11 2 1300 13 10 5 2 2 44 6300 27 1 16 3 11 H 1400 14 11 4 2 3 66 6400 28 1 17 2 11 4i 1500 15 12 3 2 5 8 6500 29 1 18 1 11 5| 1600 16 13 2 2 6 30 6600 30 1 19 12 1700 17 14 1 3 52 6700 31 1 19 5 12 n 1800 18 15 3 1 73 6800 32 1 20 4 12 n\ 1900 19 15 5 3 3 15 1 6900 33 1 21 3 12 H 2000 20 16 4 3 4 37 7000 34 1 22 2 12 5 2100 21 17 3 3 5 59 ' 7100 35 1 23 1 12 H 2200 22 18 2 4 7200 2 1 24 13 Of 2300 23 19 1 4 1 22 7300 2 1 1 24 5 13 2 2400 24 20 4 2 44 7400 2 2 1 25 4 13 H 2500 25 20 5 4 3 66 7500 2 3 1 26 3 13 4i 2600 26 21 4 4 5 8 7600 2 4 1 27 2 13 5| 2700 27 22 3 4 6 30 7700 2 5 1 23 1 14 2800 28 23 2 5 52 7800 2 6 1 29 14 H 2900 29 24 1 5 1 73 7900 2 7 1 29 5 14 2i 3000 30 25 5 3 15 8000 2 8 1 30 4 14 3| 3100 31 25 5 5 4 37 8100 2 9 1 31 3 14 5 3200 32 26 4 5 5 59 8200 2 10 1 32 2 14 H 3300 33 27 3 6 8300 2 11 1 33 1 15 0| 3400 34 28 2 6 1 22 8400 2 12 1 34 15 2 3500 35 29 1 6 2 44 8500 2 13 1 34 5 15 3i 3600 30 6 3 66 I 8600 2 14 1 35 4 15 4i 3700 1 30 5 6 5 8 •' 8700 2 15 2 3 15 51 3800 2 31 4 6 6 30 j 8800 2 16 2 1 2 16 3900 3 32 3 7 52 1 8900 2 17 2 2 1 16 li 4000 4 33 2 7 1 73 9000 2 18 2 3 16 2i 4100 5 34 1 7 3 15 1 9100 2 19 2 3 5 16 31 4200 6 35 7 4 37 9200 2 20 2 4 4 16 5 4300 7 35 5 7 5 59 9300 2 21 2 5 3 16 6i 4400 8 1 4 8 9400 2 22 2 6 2 17 Oi 4500 9 1 3 8 1 22 9500 2 23 2 7 1 17 2 4600 10 2 2 8 2 44 9600 2 24 2 8 17 3i 4700 11 3 1 8 3 66 9700 2 25 2 8 5 17 4i 4800 12 4 8 5 8 9800 2 26 2 9 4 17 51 4900 1 1 13 4 5 8 6 30 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 529 1600 Reed 2159 Dents 1700 2298 I 50 INCHES WIDE, j ^ I^-«i 2,^02 "".T Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH or Shots of AT THE RATBS 01 WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 5ths. Spy. No. Sk. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 H 510 141 24 118 2 51 9 4 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 2i 520 144 16 120 13 2 52 9 5i 30 8 12 6 34 3 4 530 147 8 122 24 4 53 9 6i 40 11 4 9 9 2 4 5i 540 150 125 54 10 1 50 13 32 11 20 4 5 6i 550 152 28 127 11 2 55 10 2ii 60 16 24 13 32 6 1 1 560 155 20 129 22 4 56 10 3i 70 19 16 16 7 2 7 1 2i 570 158 12 131 34 57 10 5 80 22 8 18 18 4 8 1 3i 580 161 4 134 9 2 58 10 6i 90 25 20 30 9 1 4| 590 163 32 136 20 4 59 11 Oi 100 27 28 23 5 2 10 1 6 600 166 24 138 32 60 11 2 110 30 20 25 16 4 11 2 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 61 11 3i 120 33 12 27 28 12 2 1| 620 172 8 143 18 4 62 11 4i 130 36 4 30 3 2 13 2 3 630 175 145 30 63 11 5| 140 38 32 32 14 4 14 2 4i 640 177 28 148 5 2 64 12 150 41 24 34 26 15 2 5| 650 180 20 150 16 4 65 12 li 160 44 16 37 1 2 16 3 660 183 12 152 28 66 12 2| 170 47 8 39 12 4 17 3 li 670 186 4 155 3 2 67 12 4 180 50 41 24 18 3 2i 680 188 32 157 14 4 68 12 5i 190 52 28 43 35 2 19 3 4 690 191 24 159 26 69 12 6| 200 55 20 46 10 4 20 3 5i 700 194 16 162 1 2 70 13 1 210 58 12 48 22 21 3 6i 710 197 8 164 12 4 71 13 2i 220 61 4 50 33 2 22 4 1 720 200 166 24 72 13 3| 230 63 32 53 8 4 23 4 2i 730 202 28 168 35 2 73 13 5 240 66 24 55 20 24 4 3i 740 205 20 171 10 4 74 13 6i 250 69 16 57 31 2 25 4 4| 750 208 12 173 22 75 14 Oi 260 72 8 60 6 4 26 4 6i 760 211 4 175 33 2 76 14 2 270 75 62 18 27 5 Oi 770 213 32 178 8 4 77 14 3i 280 77 28 64 29 2 28 5 If 780 216 24 180 20 78 14 4i 290 80 20 67 4 4 29 5 3 790 219 16 182 31 2 79 14 5| 300 83 12 69 16 30 5 4i 800 222 8 185 6 4 80 15 310 86 4 71 27 2 31 5 5| 810 225 187 18 81 15 li 320 88 32 74 2 4 32 6 820 227 28 189 29 2 82 15 2| 330 91 24 76 14 33 6 U 830 230 20 192 4 4 83 15 4 340 94 16 78 25 2 34 6 2| 840 233 12 194 16 84 15 5i 350 97 8 81 4 35 6 4 850 236 4 196 27 2 85 15 6| 360 100 83 12 36 6 5i 860 238 32 199 2 4 SG 16 1 370 102 28 85 23 2 37 6 6i 870 241 24 201 14 87 16 2^ 380 105 20 87 34 4 38 7 1 880 244 16 203 25 2 88 16 3| 390 108 12 90 10 39 7 2i 890 247 8 206 4 89 16 5 400 111 4 92 21 2 40 7 3i 900 250 208 12 90 16 6i 410 113 32 94 32 4 41 7 5 910 252 28 210 23 2 91 17 Oi 420 116 24 97 8 42 7 6i 920 255 20 212 34 4 92 17 2 430 119 16 99 19 2 43 8 Oi 930 258 12 215 10 93 17 3i 440 122 8 101 30 4 44 8 H 940 261 4 217 21 2 94 17 4i 450 125 104 6 45 8 3 950 2G3 32 219 32 4 95 17 6 460 127 28 106 17 2 46 8 4i 960 266 24 222 8 97 Oi 470 130 20 108 28 4 47 8 5| 970 269 16 224 19 2 98 li 480 133 12 111 4 48 9 980 272 8 226 30 4 99 3 490 136 4 113 15 2 49 9 li 990 275 229 6 1 100 4 500 138 32 115 26 4 50 9 2| iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 1 101 5i 67 530 1200 Reed 16S2 Dents. 1300 1825 I 52 INCHES WIDE. \ 1400 Reed 1970 Dents. 1500 2117 Picks aDANTITY OF CLOTH i Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH or AT THI RATES OF WEFT or Sliots of AT THE KATES OP WEFT Shots ot" 100 picks 120 pick s REQUIRED. 100 picks 120 pick s REQUIRED. Wert. per iuch. per incl . i Weft. per inch. per inch. Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd.' Yds . In. Yds. In. 6lhs. Spy. No .Sk. 50 i 2i 53 5000 14 1 5 4 9 H 100 1 5 1 26 5100 15 1 6 3 9 H 200 2 1 4 2 52 5200 16 1 7 2 9 5| 300 3 2 3 3 78 5300 17 1 8 1 10 400 4 3 5 24 5400 18 1 9 10 li 500 5 4 1 6 50 5500 19 1 9 5 10 2| 600 6 5 1 76 5600 20 1 10 4 10 4 700 7 , 5 5 1 2 22 5700 -t 21 1 11 3 10 5i 800 8 6 4 1 3 47 5800 22 1 12 2 10 6J 900 9 7 3 1 4 73 5900 23 1 13 1 11 1 1000 10 8 2 1 6 19 6000 24 1 14 11 n 1100 11 9 1 2 U 45 6100 25 1 14 5 11 3| 1200 12 10 2 1 71 6200 26 1 15 4 11 5 1300 13 10 5 2 3 17 6300 27 1 16 3 11 6i 1400 14 11 4 2 4 43 6400 28 1 17 2 12 0| 1500 15 12 3 2 5 69 6500 29 1 18 1 12 2 1600 16 13 2 3 15 6600 30 1 19 12 3 1700 17 14 1 3 1 41 6700 31 1 19 5 12 4| 1800 18 15 3 2 67 6800 32 1 20 4 12 6 1900 19 15 5 3 4 13 6900 33 1 21 3 13 Oi 2000 20 16 4 3 5 39 7000 34 1 22 2 13 li 2100 21 17 3 3 6 64 7100 35 1 23 1 13 3 2200 22 13 2 4 1 10 7200 2 1 24 13 4i 2300 23 19 1 .4 2 36 7300 2 1 1 24 5 13 5i 2400 24 20 4 3 62 7400 2 2 1 25 4 14 i 2500 25 20 5 4 5 8 7500 2 3 1 26 3 14 H 2600 26 21 4 4 6 34 7600 2 4 1 27 2 14 2i 2700 27 22 3 5 60 7700 2 5 1 28 1 14 4 2800 28 23 2 5 2 6 7800 2 6 1 29 14 5i 2900 29 24 1 5 3 32 7900 2 7 1 29 5 14 6i 3000 30 25 5 4 57 8000 2 8 1 30 4 15 1 3100 31 25 5 5 6 4 8100 2 9 1 31 3 15 2i 3200 32 26 4 6 30 8200 2 10 1 32 2 15 3i 3300 33 27 3 6 1 56 8300 2 11 1 33 1 15 5 3400 34 28 2 6 3 2 8400 2 12 1 34 15 H 3500 35 29 1 6 4 27 8500 2 13 1 34 5 16 H 3600 30 6 5 53 8600 2 14 1 35 4 16 li 3700 1 30 5 6 6 79 8700 2 15 2 3 16 3i 3800 2 31 4 7 1 25 8800 2 16 2 1 2 16 4i 3900 3 32 3 7 2 51 8900 2 17 2 2 1 16 5| 4000 4 33 2 7 3 77 9000 2 18 2 3 17 4100 5 34 1 7 5 23 9100 2 19 2 3 5 17 H 4200 6 35 7 6 49 9200 2 20 2 4 4 17 2| 4300 7 35 5 8 75 9300 2 21 2 5 3 17 4 4400 1 8 1 4 8 2 21 9400 2 22 2 6 2 17 5i 4500 9 1 1 3 8 3 47 9500 2 23 2 7 1 17 6| 4600 10 1 2 2 8 4 73 9600 2 24 2 8 1 1 4700 11 1 3 1 8 6 19 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 4800 12 1 4 9 44 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 h 4900 13 1 4 5 9 1 70 9900 2 27 2 10 3 j 1 5 531 1600 Reed 2245 Dents. 1700 2390 52 INCHES WIDE. 1800 Reed 25.35 Dents. 2000 2810 Picks or Shots of Weft. Tlisds. 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200 210 220 230 240 250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 3''0 390 aUANTITY OP CLOTH AT THE RATES OP 100 picks per inch. 400 111 4 410 420 430 440 450 460 470 480 490 500 Yds. In. 2 28 5 20 8 12 11 4 13 32 16 24 19 16 22 8 25 27 28 30 20 33 12 36 4 38 32 41 24 44 16 47 8 50 52 28 55 20 58 12 61 4 63 32 66 24 69 16 72 8 75 77 28 80 20 83 12 86 4 88 .32 91 24 94 16 97 8 100 102 28 105 20 108 12 120 picks per inch. WEFT REauiRED. Yds. In. 6ths 113 32 116 24 119 16 122 8 125 127 28 130 20 133 12 136 4 138 32 2 11 4 22 6 34 9 9 . 11 20 13 3X 16 7 18 18 20 30 23 5 25 16 27 28 30 3 32 14 34 26 37 1 39 12 41 24 43 35 46 10 48 22 50 33 53 8 55 20 57 31 60 6 4 62 18 64 29 2 67 4 4 69 16 71 27 2 74 2 4 76 14 78 25 2 61 4 83 12 85 23 2 87 34 4 90 10 92 21 2 94 32 4 97 8 99 19 2 101 30 4 104 6 106 17 108 28 111 4 113 15 115 26 Spy. No. Sk, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 6i 1 5| 2 5i 3 4i 4 4 5 3^ 6 2| 7 2 8 U 9 1 11 10 Oi 12 10 G^ 13 11 ei 14 12 5i 15 13 5 16 14 4i 17 15 3| 18 16 19 17 2i 21 2 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 li 2 1 3 Oi 3 6^ 4 6 5 5i 6 5 I 7 4i 8 3i 9 3 32 10 2i 33 11 1| 34 12 li 35 13 Of 36 14 37 14 6i 38 15 5i 39 16 5 40 17 4 42 4 43 44 45 46 47 1 3i 2 2| 3 2i 4 li 5 1 48 6 Oi 49 6 6| 50 7 6i 51 8 5i Picks or Shots of Weft. Thsds. 510 520 530 540 550 560 570 580 590 600 aUANTITY OP CLOTH AT THE RATES OF 100 picks per inch. 620 630 640 650 660 670 680 690 700 710 720 730 740 750 760 770 780 790 800 810 820 830 840 Yds. In. 141 24 lU 16 147 8 150 152 28 155 20 158 12 161 4 163 32 166 24 120 picks per inch. 610 169 16 172 8 175 177 28 180 20 183 12 186 4 188 .32 191 24 194 16 197 8 200 202 28 205 20 208 12 211 4 213 32 216 24 219 16 222 8 225 227 28 230 20 23^ 12 Yds. In. 6ths 118 2 120 13 2 122 24 4 125 127 11 2 WEFT REaCIRED. 129 22 4 131 34 134 9 2 136 20 4 138 32 141 7 2 143 18 4 145 30 148 5 2 150 16 4 152 28 155 3 2 157 14 4 159 26 162 1 2 Spy. No. Sk. 53 10 4i 54 11 4 55 12 3i 55 13 2| 57 14 2i 58 15 1 59 16 li 60 17 Oi 61 17 6| 63 Gi 164 12 166 24 168 35 171 10 173 22 175 33 178 8 180 20 1S2 31 185 6 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 6 H 7 2 8 Ji 9 Oi 10 74 10 Ci 75 11 6 76 12 5i 77 13 4^ 78 14 4i 79 15 3i 80 16 3 81 17 2i 83 ]| 84 1 1 850 236 4 860 238 32 870 241 24 880 890 900 910 920 930 940 950 960 970 980 244 16 247 8 250 252 28 255 20 258 12 261 4 263 32 266 24 269 16 272 8 990 275 iMill.l 277 28 187 18 189 29 2 192 4 4 194 16 196 27 2 199 2 4 201 14 203 25 2 206 4 208 12 85 86 87 88 89 2 Oi 3 3 6i 4 5| 5 5 210 23 212 34 215 10 217 21 219 32 222 8 224 19 226 30 229 6 231 17 90 6 4i 91 7 4 92 8 3i 93 9 2i 94 10 2i 95 11 li 96 12 1 97 13 Oi 98 13 Ci 99 14 6i 'lOO 15 5i 101 16 5 il02 17 4i !l04 3| 105 1 3i| 532 120( 130C ) Reed 1746 Dents. ) 1896 I 54 INCHES WIDE. ' \ 1400 Reed 2046 Dents. 1500 2199 Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH or AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots AT THE RATES OF WEFT Shots of 100 picks 120 picks REaCIRED. of 100 picks 120 picl ES REQUIRES. Weft. per i ich. per inch. Weft. per uch. per inch. Yds In. Vds In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd. Yds . In. Yds. In. 5th9. Spy. No. Sk. 50 h 2i 55 5000 14 1 5 4 9 5* 100 1 5 1 30 5100 15 1 6 3 10 200 1 4 2 60 5200 16 1 7 2 10 H 300 3 2 3 4 10 5300 17 1 8 1 10 2| 400 4 3 2 5 40 5400 18 1 9 10 4i 500 5 4 1 6 70 5500 19 1 9 5 10 5i 600 6 5 1 1 20 5600 20 1 10 4 11 700 7 5 5 1 2 50 5700 21 1 11 3 11 H 800 8 6 4 1 4 5800 22 1 12 2 11 2| 900 9 7 3 1 5 30 5900 23 1 13 1 11 4 1000 10 8 2 1 6 60 6000 24 1 14 11 5i 1100 11 9 1 2 1 10 6100 25 1 14 5 11 6| 1200 12 10 o 2 40 6200 26 1 15 4 12 H 1300 13 10 5 2 3 70 6300 27 1 16 3 12 2i 1400 14 11 4 2 5 20 6400 28 1 17 2 12 4 i 1 1500 15 12 3 2 6 50 6500 29 1 18 1 12 5i 1600 16 13 2 3 1 6600 30 1 19 12 6| 1700 17 14 1 3 2 30 6700 31 1 19 5 13 1 1800 18 15 3 3 60 6800 32 1 20 4 13 H 1900 19 15 5 3 5 10 6900 33 1 21 3 13 4 2000 20 16 4 3 6 40 7000 34 1 22 2 13 5i 2100 21 17 3 4 70 7100 35 1 23 1 13 H 2200 22 18 2 4 2 20 7200 2 1 24 14 1 2300 23 19 1 4 3 50 7300 2 1 1 24 5 14 2i 2400 24 20 4 5 7400 2 o 1 25 4 14 3| 2500 25 20 5 4 6 30 7500 2 3 1 26 3 14 5 2600 26 21 4 5 60 7600 o 4 1 27 2 14 6i 2700 27 22 3 5 2 10 7700 2 5 1 28 1 15 1 2800 28 23 2 5 3 40 7800 2 6 1 29 15 2i 2900 29 24 1 5 4 70 7900 2 7 1 29 5 15 H 3000 30 25 5 6 20 8000 2 8 1 30 4 15 5 3100 31 25 5 6 50 8100 2 9 1 31 3 15 H 3200 32 26 4 6 2 8200 2 10 1 32 2 16 Of 3300 33 27 3 6 3 30 8300 2 11 1 33 1 16 2 3400 34 28 2 6 4 60 8400 2 12 1 34 16 H 3500 35 29 1 6 6 10 8500 2 13 1 34 5 16 5 3600 30 7 40 8600 2 14 1 35 4 16 6i 3700 1 30 5 7 1 70 8700 2 15 2 3 17 Oi 3800 2 31 4 7 3 20 8800 2 16 2 1 2 17 2 3900 3 32 3 7 4 50 8900 2 17 2 2 1 17 H 4000 4 33 2 7 6 9000 2 18 2 3 17 H 4100 5 34 1 8 30 9100 2 19 2 3 5 17 6 4200 6 35 8 1 60 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 Oi 4300 7 35 5 8 3 10 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 2 4400 8 1 4 8 4 40 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 H 4500 9 1 3 8 5 70 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 H 4600 10 2 2 9 20 9600 2 24 2 8 1 6 4700 11 3 1 9 1 50 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 1 Oi 4800 12 4 9 3 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 1 H 4900 13 4 5 9 4 30 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 1 3 1 533 1, 1600 Reed 9331 Dents 1700 2432 ■i 54 INCHES WIDE. - ) 1800 Reed 2633 Dents. s ( ijuuu -^yia Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH I Picks ! aUANTITY OP CLOTH or AT THE RATES OP | WEFT or 1 AT THE RATES OP WEFT Shix* of 100 picks 120 picks REQUIRED. fenots ' Of 100 picks 120 picks REQUIRED. Welt per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. la. Gths Spy. No. Sk. IThsds Yds. In. Yds. In. ths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 1 4i 511 Ml 24 118 2 55 11 5i 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 3 2 52L 144 16 120 13 2 56 13 3 30 8 12 6 34 3 4 6i 53C 147 8 122 24 4 57 15 Oi 40 11 4 9 9 2 4 6 4 54U 150 125 58 16 5 50 13 32 11 20 4 5 8 li 55tJ 152 28 127 11 2 60 2i 60 16 24 13 32 6 9 6 560 155 20 129 22 4 61 2 70 19 16 16 7 2 7 11 3i 570 158 12 131 34 62 3 4i 80 22 8 18 18 4 8 13 1 580 161 4 134 9 2 63 5 2 90 25 20 30 9 14 5i 590 163 32 136 20 4 64 6 6i 100 27 28 23 5 2 10 16 3 600 166 24 138 32 65 8 4 110 30 20 25 16 4 12 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 66 10 li 120 33 12 27 28 13 1 5 620 172 8 143 18 4 67 11 6 130 36 4 30 3 2 14 3 2^ 630 175 145 30 68 13 3i 140 38 32 32 14 4 15 5 640 177 28 148 5 2 69 15 1 150 41 24 34 26 16 6 4i 650 180 20 150 16 4 70 16 5i 160 44 16 37 1 2 17 8 2 660 183 12 152 28 72 3 170 47 8 39 12 4 18 9 6i 670 186 4 155 3 2 73 2 Oi 180 50 41 24 19 11 4 680 188 32 157 14 4 74 3 5 190 52 28 43 35 2 20 13 li 690 191 24 159 26 75 5 2i 200 55 20 46 10 4 21 14 6 700 194 16 162 1 2 76 7 210 58 12 48 22 22 16 3i 710 197 8 164 12 4 77 8 4^ 220 61 4 50 33 2 24 1 720 200 166 24 78 10 2 230 63 32 53 8 4 25 1 5i 730 202 28 168 35 2 79 11 6i 240 66 24 55 20 26 3 3 740 205 20 171 10 4 80 13 4 25.0 69 16 57 31 2 27 5 Oi 750 208 12 173 22 81 15 li 260 72 8 60 6 4 28 6 5 760 211 4 175 33 2 82 16 6 270 75 62 18 29 8 2i 770 213 .32 178 8 4 84 3i 280 77 28 64 29 2 30 10 780 216 24 180 20 85 2 1 290 80 20 67 4 4 31 11 4i 790 219 16 182 31 2 86 3 5i 300 83 12 69 16 32 13 2 800 222 8 185 6 4 87 5 3 310 86 4 71 27 2 33 14 6i 810 225 187 18 88 7 Oi 320 88 32 74 2 4 34 16 4 820 227 28 189 29 2 89 8 5 330 91 24 76 14 36 li 830 230 20 192 4 4 90 10 2i 340 94 16 78 25 2 37 1 6 840 233 12 194 16 91 12 350 97 8 81 4 38 3 3i 850 236 4 196 27 2 92 13 4i 360 100 83 12 39 5 1 860 238 32 199 2 4 93 15 2 370 102 28 85 23 2 40 6 5i 870 241 24 201 14 94 16 6i 380 105 20 87 34 4 41 8 3 880 244 16 203 25 2 96 4 390 108 12 90 10 42 10 Oi 890 247 8 206 4 97 2 li 400 111 4 92 21 2 43 11 5 900 250 208 12 98 3 6 410 113 32 94 32 4 44 13 2i 910 252 28 210 23 2 99 5 3i 420 116 24 97 8 45 15 920 255 20 212 .34 4 100 7 1 430 119 16 99 19 2 46 16 4i 930 258 12 215 10 101 8 5i 440 122 8 101 30 4 48 2 940 261 4 217 21 2 1 102 10 3 450 125 104 6 6 49 1 6i 950 263 32 219 32 4 103 12 0^ 460 127 28 106 17 2 50 3 4 960 266 24 222 8 104 13 5 470 130 20 108 28 4 51 5 li 970 269 16 224 19 2 105 15 2i 480 133 12 111 4 52 6 6 980 272 8 226 30 4 06 17 490 135 4 113 15 2 53 8 3i 990 275 229 6 ] 108 4* 500 138 32 115 26 4 54 10 1 iMiU. 277 28 231 17 2 109 2 2"| 534 1200 1300 Reed 1810 Dents. 1965 I 56 INCHES WIDE. \ 1400 Reed 2122 Dents, i 1500 2281 j 1 1 ] Picks fttJANTITV OP CLOTH Picks aCANTITY OF CLOTH M I or AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots AT THE RATES OP WEFT 11 Shots of 100 picks 120 picks REftUIRBD. of 100 1 icks 120 picks REQUIRED. II Weft. per iiicb. per incl 1. Weft. per nch. per inc 1. Yds la. Yds. In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd. Yds . In. Yds. In. ( jths. Spy. No .Sk. 50 i 2i 57 5000 14 1 5 4 10 14 100 1 5 1 34 5100 15 1 6 3 10 2| 200 2 1 4 2 68 5200 16 1 7 2 10 4 300 3 2 3 4 22 5300 17 1 8 1 10 5i 400 4 3 2 5 56 5400 18 1 9 11 500 5 4 1 10 5500 19 1 9 5 11 H 600 6 5 1 44 5600 20 1 10 4 11 H 700 7 5 5 2 79 5700 21 1 11 3 11 44 800 8 6 4 4 33 5800 22 1 12 2 11 H 900 9 7 3 5 67 5900 23 1 13 1 12 1000 10 8 2 2 21 6000 24 1 14 12 H 1100 11 9 1 2 1 55 6100 25 1 14 5 12 3 1200 12 10 2 3 9 6200 26 1 15 4 12 H 1300 13 10 5 2 4 43 6300 27 1 16 3 12 5i; 1400 14 11 4 2 5 77 6400 28 1 17 2 13 04, 1500 15 12 3 3 31 6500 29 1 18 1 13 11 1600 16 13 2 3 1 65 6600 30 1 19 13 3 1700 17 14 1 3 3 19 6700 31 1 19 5 13 4i 1800 IS 15 3 4 53 6800 32 1 20 4 13 6 1900 19 15 5 3 6 7 6900 33 1 21 3 14 Oil 2000 20 16 4 4 41 7000 34 1 22 2 14 1| 2100 21 17 3 4 1 76 7100 35 1 23 1 14 34 2200 22 18 2 4 3 30 7200 2 1 24 14 4i 2300 23 19 1 4 4 64 7300 2 1 1 24 5 14 6 2400 24 20 4 6 18 7400 2 o 1 25 4 15 Oi 2500 25 20 5 5 52 7500 2 3 1 26 3 15 2 2600 26 21 4 5 2 6 7600 2 4 1 27 2 15 34 2700 27 22 3 5 3 40 7700 2 5 1 28 1 15 H 2800 28 23 2 5 4 74 7800 2 6 1 29 15 64 2900 29 24 1 5 6 28 7900 2 7 1 29 5 16 Oi 3000 30 25 6 62 8000 2 8 1 30 4 16 o 3100 31 25 5 6 2 16 8100 2 9 1 31 3 16 H 3200 32 26 4 6 3 50 8200 2 10 1 32 2 16 5 3300 33 27 3 6 5 4 8300 2 11 1 33 1 16 64 3400 34 28 2 6 6 39 8400 2 12 1 34 17 0| 3500 35 29 1 7 73 8500 2 13 1 34 5 17 24 3600 30 7 2 27 8600 2 14 1 35 4 17 H 3700 1 30 5 7 3 61 8700 15 2 3 17 5 3800 2 31 4 7 5 15 8800 2 16 2 1 2 17 6i 3900 3 32 3 7 6 49 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 1 4000 4 33 2 8 1 3 9000 2 18 2 3 1 24 4100 5 34 1 8 2 37 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 H 4200 6 35 8 3 71 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 54 4300 7 35 5 8 5 25 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 6i 4400 8 1 4 8 6 59 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 1 1 4500 9 1 1 3 9 1 13 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 1 2i 4600 10 1 2 2 9 2 47 9600 2 24 2 8 1 1 4 4700 11 1 3 1 9 4 2 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 1 54 4800 12 1 4 9 5 36 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 1 6| 4900 13 1 4 5 9 6 70 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 2 1 53i 1600 Reed 2420 Dents. ) -^ tvphf^s wrnr 5 1^00 Reed 2730 Dents, i 1700 2575 \ ^^ l-NOHLb WIDE. ^ ,-^^^^^^ ^^^^ Pickb ftUANTITY OF CLOTH 1 Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT of 100 picks liO picks REftUIREO. 100 picks ]20 picks RBaUIRED. Wefl. per iiich. per inch. Wea. 1 per inch. per inch. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy. No. Sk. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. ths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 2 2i 510 141 24 118 2 57 12 6i 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 4 5:i 520 144 16 120 13 2 58 15 1| 30 8 12 6 34 3 7 0| 530 147 8 122 24 4 59 17 4i 40 11 4 9 9 2 4 9 3i 540 150 125 61 2 1 50 13 32 11 20 4 5 11 6 550 152 28 127 11 2 62 4 2i 60 16 24 13 32 6 14 li 560 155 20 129 22 4 63 6 5^ 70 19 16 16 7 2 7 16 4 570 158 12 131 34 64 9 0| 80 22 8 18 18 4 9 6| 580 161 4 134 9 2 65 11 3i 90 25 20 30 10 3 2i 590 163 32 136 20 4 66 13 6 100 27 23 23 5 2 11 5 5 600 166 24 138 32 67 16 li 110 30 20 25 16 4 12 8 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 69 4 120 33 12 27 28 13 10 3 620 172 8 143 18 4 70 2 6J 130 36 4 30 3 2 14 12 5| 630 175 145 30 71 5 2i 140 38 32 32 14 4 15 5 H 640 177 28 148 5 2 72 7 5 150 41 24 34 26 16 17 4 650 180 20 150 16 4 73 10 Oi 160 44 16 37 1 2 18 1 6i 660 183 12 152 28 74 12 3 170 47 8 39 12 4 19 4 2 670 186 4 155 3 2 75 14 5| 180 50 41 24 20 6 4i 680 188 32 157 14 4 76 17 U 190 52 28 43 35 2 21 9 Oi 690 191 24 159 26 78 1 4 200 55 20 46 10 4 22 11 3 700 194 16 162 1 2 79 3 6i 210 58 12 48 22 23 13 5i 710 197 8 164 12 4 80 6 2 220 61 4 50 33 2 24 16 1 720 200 166 24 81 8 4i 230 63 32 53 8 4 26 3i 730 202 28 168 35 2 82 11 Oi 240 66 24 55 20 27 2 6i 740 205 20 171 10 4 83 13 3 250 69 16 57 31 2 28 5 1| 750 208 12 173 22 84 15 5i 260 72 8 60 6 4 29 7 4i 760 211 4 175 33 2 86 1 270 75 62 18 30 10 770 213 32 178 8 4 87 2 3i 280 77 28 64 29 2 31 12 2i 780 216 24 180 20 88 4 6i 290 80 20 67 4 4 32 14 5i 790 219 16 182 31 2 89 7 1| 300 83 12 69 16 33 17 OJ 800 222 8 185 6 4 90 9 4i 310 86 4 71 27 2 35 1 3i 810 225 187 18 91 12 320 88 32 74 2 4 36 3 6 820 227 28 189 29 2 92 14 2i 330 91 24 76 14 37 6 li 830 230 20 192 4 4 93 16 5i 340 94 16 78 25 2 38 8 4 840 233 12 194 16 95 1 Of 350 97 8 81 4 39 10 6| 850 236 4 196 27 2 96 3 3i 360 100 83 12 40 13 2i 860 238 32 199 2 4 97 5 6 370 102 28 85 23 2 41 15 5 870 241 24 201 14 98 8 H 380 105 20 87 34 4 43 Oi 880 244 16 203 25 2 99 10 4 390 108 12 90 10 44 2 3 890 247 8 206 4 100 12 6J 400 111 4 92 21 2 ; 45 4 5| 900 250 208 12 101 15 2i 410 113 32 94 32 4 46 7 li 910 252 28 210 23 2 102 17 5 420 116 24 97 8 47 9 4 920 255 20 212 34 4 104 2 Oi 430 119 16 99 19 2 48 11 6i 930 258 12 215 10 i 105 4 3 440 122 8 101 30 4 49 14 2 940 261 4 217 21 2 : 106 6 5| 450, 1 125 104 6 50 16 4| 950 263 32 219 32 4 1 107 9 li 460 127 28 106 17 2 52 1 Oi 960 266 24 222 8 1 108 11 4 470 ! 130 20 108 28 4 53 3 2| 970 269 16 224 19 2 , 109 13 6i 480] 133 12 111 4 54 5 5i 980 272 8 226 30 4 110 16 2 490 136 4 113 15 2 55 8 1 990 275 229 6 112 4i 500 138 32 1 115 26 4 56 10 3i iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 113 3 Oi 536 1200 1300 Reed 1880 Dents. 2035 I 58 INCHES WIDE. ) 1400 Reed 2195 DenU. 1500 2355 1 Picks QUANTITY OF CLOTH 1 Picks aCANTITY OF CLOTH or AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEPT Shots of 100 picks 120 pick s REftUlRED. 100 picks 1-20 picK s REalHRED. Weft. per i ich. pe r inct 1. Weft. per inch. per inc \. Yds In. Yds In. 6ths. No. Sk.Tlid. Yds. In. Yds. In. f )ths. Spy. No .Sk. 50 i n 59 5000 1 14 1 5 4 10 H 100 1 5 1 38 5100 1 15 1 6 3 10 5i 200 2 1 4 2 76 5200 1 16 1 7 2 10 6| 300 3 2 3 4 34 5300 1 17 1 8 1 11 H 400 4 3 2 5 73 5400 1 18 1 9 11 2i 500 5 4 1 31 5500 1 19 1 9 5 11 H 600 6 5 1 69 5600 1 20 1 10 4 11 51 700 7 5 5 3 27 5700 1 21 1 11 3 12 Oi 800 8 6 4 4 65 5800 1 22 1 12 2 12 H 900 9 7 3 6 23 5900 1 23 1 13 1 12 3 1000 10 8 2 2 61 6000 1 24 1 14 12 4i 1100 11 9 1 2 2 20 6100 1 25 1 14 5 12 6 1200 12 10 2 3 58 6200 1 26 1 15 4 13 Oi 1300 13 10 5 2 5 16 6300 1 27 1 16 3 13 2 1400 14 11 4 2 6 54 6400 1 28 1 17 2 13 3i 1500 15 12 3 3 1 12 6500 1 29 1 18 1 13 5 1600 16 13 2 3 2 50 6600 1 30 1 19 13 H 1700 17 14 1 3 4 9 1 6700 1 31 1 19 5 14 1 1800 18 15 3 5 47 6800 1 32 1 20 4 14 2i 1900 19 15 5 4 5 6900 1 33 1 21 3 14 4 2000 20 16 4 4 1 43 7000 1 34 1 22 2 14 5i 2100 21 17 3 4 3 1 7100 1 35 1 23 1 14 7 2200 22 18 2 4 4 39 7200 2 1 24 15 1* 2300 23 19 1 4 5 78 7300 2 1 1 24 5 15 2| 2400 24 20 5 36 7400 2 2 1 25 4 15 4i 2500 25 20 5 5 1 74 7500 2 3 1 26 3 15 5| 2000 26 21 4 5 3 32 7600 2 4 1 27 2 16 Oi 2700 27 22 3 5 4 71 7700 2 5 1 23 1 16 li 2800 28 23 2 5 6 28 7800 2 6 1 29 16 3i 2900 29 24 1 6 66 7900 2 7 1 29 5 16 4| 3000 30 25 6 2 24 8000 2 8 1 30 4 16 6 3100 31 25 5 6 3 33 1 8100 2 9 1 31 3 17 Oi 3200 32 26 4 6 5 21 1 8200 2 10 1 32 2 17 2 3300 33 27 3 6 6 59 8300 2 11 1 33 1 17 H 3400 34 28 2 7 1 17 8400 2 12 1 34 17 5 3500 35 29 1 7 2 55 8500 2 13 1 34 5 17 H 3600 30 7 4 13 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 1 3700 1 30 5 7 5 51 8700 2 15 2 3 1 2i 3800 2 31 4 8 10 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 4 3900 3 32 3 8 1 48 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 5i 4000 4 33 2 8 3 6 9000 2 18 2 3 1 1 4100 5 34 1 8 4 44 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 1 li 4200 6 35 8 6 2 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 1 3 4300 7 35 5 9 40 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 1 4i 4400 8 1 4 9 1 79 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 1 5| 4500 9 1 3 9 3 37 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 2 Oi 4600 10 2 9 4 75 9600 2 24 2 8 1 2 n 4700 11 3 1 9 6 33 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 2 3i 4800 12 4 10 71 I 9800 2 20 2 9 4 1 2 4J 4900 13 4 5 10 2 29 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 2 6i 537 1600 Reed 2505 Dents. ) .„ TATrHF^ Vifir>v 5 1800 Reed 2825 Dents. 1700 2665 5 ^^ INCHES WIDE, j ^^^^ 3^35 Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEPT 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. 100 picks 120 i)ick8 REQUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds, Yds. In. Yds. In. 6th8 Spy. No. Sk. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. ths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 3 0| 510 141 24 118 2 59 13 7 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 6 li 520 144 16 120 13 2 60 17 Oi 30 8 12 6 34 3 9 2 530 147 8 122 24 4 62 2 ii 40 11 4 9 9 2 4 12 2| 540 150 125 63 5 2 50 13 32 11 20 4 5 15 3i 550 152 28 127 11 2 64 8 2i 60 16 24 13 32 7 4 560 155 20 129 22 4 65 11 3i 70 19 16 16 7 2 8 3 4| 570 158 12 131 34 66 14 4 80 22 8 18 18 4 9 6 5i 580 161 4 134 9 2 67 17 4| 90 25 20 30 10 9 6i 590 163 32 136 20 4 69 2 5i 100 27 28 23 5 2 11 13 600 166 24 138 32 70 5 6 110 30 20 25 16 4 12 16 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 71 8 6J 120 33 12 27 28 14 1 H 620 172 8 143 18 4 72 12 Oi 130 36 4 30 3 2 15 4 2 630 175 145 30 73 15 1 140 38 32 32 14 4 16 7 2i 640 177 28 148 5 2 75 1| 150 41 24 34 26 17 10 3i 650 180 20 150 16 4 76 3 2i 160 44 16 37 1 2 18 13 4 660 183 12 152 28 77 6 3i 170 47 8 39 12 4 19 16 4i 670 186 4 155 3 2 78 9 4 180 50 41 24 21 1 5i 680 188 32 157 14 4 79 12 4i 190 52 28 43 35 2 22 4 6 690 191 24 159 26 80 15 5i 200 55 20 46 10 4 23 7 6i 700 194 16 162 1 2 82 6 210 58 12 48 22 24 11 Of 710 197 8 164 12 4 83 3 6i 220 61 4 50 33 2 25 14 1 720 200 166 24 84 7 Oi 230 63 32 53 8 4 26 17 IJ 730 202 28 168 35 2 85 10 1 240 66 24 55 20 28 2 2i 740 205 20 171 10 4 86 13 li 250 69 16 57 31 2 29 5 3 750 208 12 173 22 87 16 2i 260 72 8 60 6 4 30 8 3| 760 211 4 175 33 2 89 1 3 270 75 62 18 31 11 4i 770 213 32 178 8 4 90 4 3i 280 77 28 64 29 2 32 14 5i 780 216 24 180 20 91 7 4i 290 80 20 67 4 4 33 17 6 790 219 16 182 31 2 92 10 5 300 83 12 69 16 35 2 6i 800 222 8 185 6 4 93 13 5| 310 86 4 71 27 2 36 6 Oi 810 225 187 18 94 16 6i 320 88 32 74 2 4 37 9 1 820 227 28 189 29 2 96 2 Oi 330 91 24 76 14 38 12 li 830 230 20 192 4 4 97 5 1 340 94 16 78 25 2 39 15 2i 840 233 12 194 16 98 8 li 350 97 8 81 4 41 3 850 236 4 196 27 2 99 11 2i 360 100 83 12 42 3 3i 860 238 32 199 2 4 100 14 3 370 102 28 85 23 2 43 6 4i 870 241 24 201 14 101 17 3i 380 105 20 87 34 4 44 9 5 880 244 16 203 25 2 103 2 4i 390 108 12 90 10 45 12 5J 890 247 8 206 4 104 5 5 400 111 4 92 21 2 46 15 6i 900 250 208 12 105 8 5| 410 113 32 94 32 4 48 1 910 252 28 210 23 2 J06 11 6i 420 116 24 97 8 49 4 0| 920 255 20 212 34 4 107 15 OJ 430 119 16 99 19 2 50 7 li 930 258 12 215 10 109 H 440 122 8 101 30 4 51 10 2 940 261 4 217 21 2 110 3 2 450 125 .0 104 6 52 13 2| 950 263 32 219 32 4 111 6 2| 460 127 28 106 17 2 53 16 3i 960 266 24 222 8 112 9 3i 470 130 20 108 28 4 55 1 4i 970 269 16 224 19 2 113 12 4 480 133 12 111 4 56 4 5 980 272 8 226 30 4 114 15 4| 490 136 4 113 15 2 57 7 5i 990 275 229 6 116 5* 500 138 32 115 26 4 58 10 6i iMill. 277 28 1 231 17 2 117 3 6 1 -i 68 538 1200 1300 Reed 1945 Dents. • 2105 I 60 INCHES WIDE. \ 1400 Reed 2270 Dents. ! 1500 2440 j Picks j aUAXTirr OF CLOTH 1 Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH ~ or 1 AT THI RATES OP WEFT or Shou Of AT THE RATES Of WEFT 1 Shots T of 1 100 picks 1 120 picks 1 REQ.CIRED. 100 picks 120 picks REQUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch • Weft. per i QCh. per inch . : Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd. Yds lu. Yds. In. 6ihs. Spy. No Sk. 50! i 2i 61 ; 5000 14 1 5 4 10 fci lOO' 1 5 1 42 5100 15 1 6 3 11 1 200 2 1 4 3 4 5200 16 1 7 2 11 2i 300 3 2 3 4 47 5300 17 1 8 1 11 4 400 4 3 2 6 9 5400 18 1 9 11 5i 500 5 4 1 51 5500 19 1 9 5 12 600 6 5 2 13 5600 20 1 10 4 12 U 700 ! 7 5 5 3 56 : 5700 21 1 11 3 12 3 8001 8 6 4 5 18 5800 22 1 12 2 12 H 900 9 7 3 6 60 5900 23 1 13 1 12 6 1000 10 8 2 2 1 22 6000 24 1 14 13 Oi 1100 11 9 1 2 2 64 6100 25 1 14 5 13 2 1200 12 10 2 4 27 : 6200 26 1 15 4 13 3| 1300 13 10 5 2 5 69 : 6300 27 1 16 3 13 5i 1400 14 11 4 3 31 i 6400 28 1 17 2 13 6| 1500 15 12 3 3 1 73 ' 6500 29 1 18 1 14 H 1600 16 13 2 3 3 35 6600 30 1 19 14 2| 1700 17 14 1 3 4 78 ■ 6700 31 1 19 5 14 H 1800 18 15 3 6 40 6800 32 1 20 4 14 6 1900 19 15 5 4 1 2 : 6900 33 1 21 3 15 Oi 2000 20 16 4 4 2 44 1 7000 34 1 22 2 15 2 2100 21 17 3 4 4 7 7100 35 1 23 1 15 H 2200 22 18 2 4 5 49 1 7200 2 1 24 15 5 2300 23 19 1 5 11 1 7300 2 1 1 24 5 15 H 2400 24 20 5 1 53 ] 7400 2 2 1 25 4 16 1 2500 25 20 5 5 3 16 ' 7500 2 3 1 26 3 16 ^ 2600 26 21 4 5 4 58 i 7600 2 4 1 27 2 16 4 2700 27 22 3 5 6 20 7700 2 5 1 28 1 16 5i 2800 28 23 2 6 62 i 7800 2 6 1 29 17 2900 29 24 1 6 2 24 : 7900 2 7 1 29 5 17 H 3000 30 25 6 3 67 { 8000 2 8 1 30 4 17 H 3100 31 25 5 6 5 29 ! 8100 2 9 1 31 3 17 4| 3200 32 26 4 6 6 71 1 8200 2 10 1 32 2 17 6i 3300 33 27 3 7 1 33 ! 8300 2 11 1 33 1 1 0| 3400 34 28 2 7 2 76 : 1 8400 2 12 1 34 1 H 3500 35 29 1 7 4 38 ! 8500 2 13 1 34 5 1 3| 3600 30 7 6 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 H 3700 1 30 5 8 42 8700 2 15 2 3 1 1 3800 2 31 4 8 2 4 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 1 li 3900 3 32 3 8 3 47 , 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 1 3 4000 4 33 2 8 5 9 9000 2 18 2 3 1 1 4i 4100 5 34 1 8 6 51 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 1 6 4200 6 35 9 1 13 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 2 Oi 4300 7 35 5 9 2 56 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 2 2 4400 1 1 8 1 4 9 4 18 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 2 3i 4500 i J 9 1 1 3 9 5 60 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 2 5 4600 10 1 2 10 22 9600 2 24 2 8 1 2 6i 4700 11 1 3 1 :io 1 64 ' 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 3 li 4800 12 : 1 4 10 3 27 1 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 3 2i 4900 1 _ i 1 13 — » i 1 4 5 10 4 69 1 9900 2 27 2 10 3 _LL 4i ' 53d 1600 Reed 2595 Dents 1700 2750 \ 60 INCHES WIDE, j S ^".' ISo ^"!'" Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT 100 picks 120 picks RBaUlRED. 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. Weft per inch. per inc I. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds. Yds. In. Yd.s. In. 5ths. Spy. No. Sk. Thsds. Yd? In. Yds. In. Ihs Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 3 5| 510 141 24 118 2 61 15 Of 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 7 4i 520 144 16 120 13 2 63 6i 30 8 12 6 34 3 11 3^ 530 147 8 122 24 4 64 4 bi 40 11 4 9 9 2 4 15 2 540 150 125 65 8 4 50 13 32 11 20 4 6 1 1 550 152 28 127 11 2 66 12 2| 60 16 24 13 32 7 4 6| 560 155 20 129 22 4 67 16 li 70 19 16 16 7 2 8 8 5i 570 158 12 131 34 69 2 04 80 22 8 18 18 4 9 12 4i 580 161 4 134 9 2 70 5 6 90 25 20 30 10 16 3 590 163 32 136 20 4 71 9 5 100 27 28 23 5 2 12 2 1| 600 166 24 138 32 72 13 3| 110 30 20 25 16 4 13 6 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 73 17 2i 120 33 12 27 28 14 9 6i 620 172 8 143 18 4 75 3 li 130 36 4 30 3 2 15 13 5 630 175 145 30 76 7 140 38 32 32 14 4 16 17 4 640 177 28 148 5 2 77 10 5| 150 41 24 34 26 18 3 2| 650 180 20 150 16 4 78 14 4i 160 44 16 37 1 2 19 7 li 660 183 12 152 28 80 3^ 170 47 8 39 12 4 20 11 Oi 670 186 4 155 3 2 81 4 2 180 50 41 24 21 14 6 680 188 32 157 14 4 82 8 1 190 52 28 43 35 2 23 4| 690 191 24 159 26 83 11 6J 200 55 20 46 10 4 24 4 3i 700 194 16 1G2 1 2 84 15 5i 210 58 12 48 22 25 8 2i 710 197 8 164 12 4 86 1 4i 220 61 4 50 33 2 26 12 1 720 200 166 24 87 5 3 230 63 32 53 8 4 27 16 730 202 28 168 35 2 88 9 1| 240 66 24 55 20 29 1 5| 740 205 20 171 10 4 89 13 Oi 250 69 16 57 31 2 30 5 4i 750 208 12 173 22 90 16 6i 260 72 8 60 6 4 31 9 3i 760 211 4 175 33 2 92 2 5 270 75 62 18 32 13 2 770 213 32 178 8 4 93 6 4 280 77 28 64 29 2 33 17 Of 780 216 24 180 20 94 10 2J 290 80 20 67 4 4 35 2 6i 790 219 16 182 31 2 95 14 li 300 83 12 69 16 36 6 5i 800 222 8 185 6 4 97 Oi 310 86 4 71 27 2 37 10 4 810 225 187 18 98 3 6 320 88 32 74 2 4 38 14 3 820 227 28 189 29 2 99 7 4| 330 91 24 76 14 40 If 83U 230 20 192 4 4 100 11 3i 340 94 16 78 25 2 41 4 Oi 840 233 12 194 16 101 15 2^ 350 97 8 81 4 42 7 6i 850 236 4 196 27 2 103 1 1 360 100 83 12 43 11 5 860 238 32 199 2 4 104 5 370 102 28 85 23 2 44 15 3| 870 241 24 201 14 105 8 5i 380 105 20 87 34 4 46 1 2i 880 244 16 203 25 2 J06 12 4| 390 108 12 90 10 47 5 H 890 247 8 206 4 107 16 3i 400 111 4 92 21 2 48 9 900 250 208 12 1 109 2 2 410 113 32 94 32 4 49 2 6 910 252 28 210 23 2 110 6 OJ 420 116 24 97 8 50 16 4| 920 255 20 213 34 4 1 111 9 6i 430 119 16 99 19 2 52 2 3i 930 258 12 215 10 112 13 5^ 440 122 8 101 30 4 53 6 2i 940 261 4 217 21 2 112 17 4 450 125 104 6 6 54 10 1 950 263 32 219 32 4 115 3 3 460 127 28 106 17 2 55 13 6| 960 266 24 222 8 116 7 1| 470 130 20 108 28 4 56 17 5i 970 269 16 224 19 2 117 11 Oi 480 133 12 111 4 58 3 ^ 980 272 8 226 30 4 118 14 G^ 490 136 4 113 15 2 59 7 3 990 275 229 6 120 5 < 500 138 32 115 26 4 60 11 2 IMill. 277 28 231 17 2 1 121 4 3| 540 1200 Reed 2010 Dents. 1300 2180 I 62 INCHES WIDE. \ 1400 Reed 2345 Dents. 1500 2520 Picks aUANTII Y OF CLOTH 1 1 Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH ~ or AT THi RATES OP WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES 01 WEFT ' Shots of 100 picks 120 pick s REdUIRED. 100 picks 120 picks RBQ,riRED. Weft. per inch. per inch . Weft. per inch. per ineli . Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. No.Sk.Thd.j Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. eipy.No.Sk.l 50 i 2i 63 5000 14 1 5 4 11 2 100 1 5 1 46 5100 15 1 6 3 11 3i 200 2 1 4 3 13 5200 16 1 7 2 11 5 300 3 2 3 4 57 5300 17 1 8 1 11 6* 400 4 3 2 6 25 5400 18 1 9 12 H 500 5 4 1 1 1 5500 19 1 9 5 12 2| 600 6 5 1 2 38 5600 20 1 10 4 12 4i 700 7 5 5 1 4 4 5700 21 1 11 3 12 6 800 8 6 4 1 5 50 5800 22 1 12 2 13 Oi 900 9 7 3 2 17 5900 23 1 13 1 13 2 1000 10 8 2 2 1 63 6000 24 1 14 13 H 1100 11 9 1 2 3 29 6100 25 1 14 5 13 H 1200 12 10 2 4 1 6200 26 1 15 4 14 1300 13 10 5 2 6 42 6300 27 1 16 3 14 H 1400 14 11 4 3 1 8 6400 28 1 17 2 14 3 1500 15 12 3 3 2 54 6500 29 1 18 1 14 4i 1600 16 13 2 3 4 21 6600 30 1 19 14 H 1700 17 14 1 3 5 67 6700 31 1 19 5 15 0| 1800 18 15 4 33 6800 32 1 20 4 15 2i 1900 19 15 5 4 2 6900 33 1 21 3 15 4 2000 20 16 4 4 3 46 7000 34 1 22 2 15 5i 2100 21 17 3 4 5 12 7100 35 1 23 1 16 2200 22 18 2 4 6 59 7200 2 1 24 16 H 2300 23 19 1 5 1 25 7300 2 1 1 24 5 16 H 2400 24 20 5 2 71 7400 2 2 1 25 4 16 4| 2500 25 • 20 5 5 4 37 7500 2 3 1 26 3 16 6i 2600 26 21 4 5 6 4 7600 2 4 1 27 2 17 1 2700 27 22 3 6 50 7700 2 5 1 28 1 17 2i 2800 28 23 2 6 2 16 7800 2 6 1 29 17 4 2900 29 24 1 6 3 63 7900 2 7 1 29 5 17 5i 3000 30 25 6 5 29 8000 2 8 1 30 4 1 Oi 3100 31 25 5 6 6 75 8100 2 9 1 31 3 1 2 3200 32 26 4 7 57 8200 2 10 1 32 o 1 H 3300 33 27 3 7 3 8 8300 2 11 1 33 1 1 5 3400 34 28 2 7 4 14 8400 2 12 1 34 1 H 3500 35 29 1 7 6 20 8500 2 13 1 34 5 1 1 n 3600 30 8 67 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 1 3 3700 1 30 5 8 2 33 8700 2 15 2 3 1 1 4i 3800 2 31 4 8 4 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 1 6 3900 3 32 3 8 5 46 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 2 Oi 4000 4 33 2 9 12 9000 2 18 2 3 1 2 2 4100 5 34 1 9 1 58 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 2 3i 4200 6 35 9 3 24 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 2 5i 4300 7 35 5 9 4 71 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 2 6} 4400 8 1 4 9 6 35 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 3 H 4500 9 1 1 3 10 1 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 3 3 4600 10 1 2 2 10 2 50 9600 2 24 2 8 1 3 4i 4700 11 1 3 1 10 4 16 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 3 6 4800 12 1 4 10 5 62 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 4 OJ 4900 1 13 1 4 5 11 29 9900 2 27 2 10 3 !l 4 2i 541 1600 Reed 2680 Dents 1700 2850 • 1 62 INCHES WIDE. j l^ Reed 3020 Dents. Picks QUANTITY OF CLOTH Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES OP WEPT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEPT of 100 picks 120 picl [S REaUIRED. 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch> Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. ths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 4 4 510 141 24 118 2 63 16 li 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 9 0| 520 144 16 120 13 2 65 2 5i 30 8 12 6 34 3 13 4i 530 147 8 122 24 4 66 7 2 40 11 4 9 9 2 5 li 540 150 125 67 11 6 50 13 32 11 20 4 6 4 5i 550 152 28 127 11 2 68 16 2| 60 16 24 13 32 7 9 2i 560 155 20 129 22 4 70 2 6| 70 19 16 16 7 2 8 13 6 570 158 12 131 34 71 7 3i 80 22 8 18 18 4 10 3 580 161 4 134 9 2 72 12 Oi 90 25 20 30 11 4 6| 590 163 32 136 20 4 73 16 4i 100 27 28 23 5 2 12 9 3| 600 166 24 138 32 75 3 H 110 30 20 25 16 4 13 14 0^ 610 169 16 141 7 2 76 7 5 120 33 12 27 28 15 4i 620 172 8 143 18 4 77 12 2 130 36 4 30 3 2 16 5 li 630 175 145 30 78 16 5| 140 38 32 32 14 4 17 9 5i 640 177 28 148 5 2 80 3 2J 150 41 24 34 26 18 14 2 650 180 20 150 16 4 81 7 6i 160 44 16 37 1 2 20 6 660 183 12 152 28 82 12 3i 170 47 8 39 12 4 21 5 2| 670 186 4 155 3 2 83 17 Oi 180 50 41 24 22 9 6| 680 188 32 157 14 4 85 3 4 190 52 28 43 35 9 23 14 3i 690 191 24 159 26 86 8 1 200 55 20 46 10 4 25 1 Oi 700 194 16 162 1 2 87 12 5 210 58 12 48 22 26 5 4i 710 197 8 164 12 4 88 17 1^ 220 61 4 50 33 2 27 10 1 720 200 166 24 90 3 5| 230 63 32 53 8 4 28 14 5 730 202 28 168 35 2 91 8 2i 240 66 24 55 20 30 1 2 740 205 20 171 10 4 92 12 6i 250 69 16 57 31 2 31 5 5| 750 208 12 173 22 93 17 'Si 260 79 8 60 6 4 32 10 2i 760 211 4 175 33 2 95 4 270 75 62 18 33 14 6i 770 213 32 178 8 4 96 8 4 280 77 28 64 29 2 35 1 3i 780 216 24 180 20 97 13 1 290 80 20 67 4 4 36 6 Oi 790 219 16 182 31 2 98 17 4| 1 300 83 12 69 16 37 10 4 800 222 8 185 6 4 100 4 li 310 86 4 71 27 2 38 15 1 810 225 187 18 101 8 5i 320 88 32 74 2 4 40 1 4| 820 227 28 189 29 2 102 13 2i 330 91 24 76 14 41 6 1| 830 230 20 192 4 4 103 17 6i 340 94 16 78 25 2 42 10 5i 840 233 12 194 16 105 4 3 350 97 8 81 .0 4 43 15 2i 850 236 4 196 27 2 106 9 360 100 83 12 45 1 6i 860 238 32 199 2 4 107 13 4 370 102 28 85 23 2 46 6 3i 870 241 24 201 14 109 Oi 380 105 20 87 34 4 47 11 880 244 16 203 25 2 110 4 4i 390 108 12 90 10 48 15 4 890 247 8 206 4 111 9 li 400 111 4 92 21 2 50 2 0| 900 250 208 12 112 13 5i 410 113 32 94 32 4 51 6 4| 910 252 28 210 23 2 114 2i 420 116 24 97 8 52 11 li 920 255 20 212 34 4 115 4 6 430 119 16 99 19 2 53 15 5i 930 258 12 21510 116 9 3 440 122 8 101 30 4 55 2 2i 940 261 4 217 21 2 117 13 6| 450 125 104 6 56 6 6i 950 263 32 219 32 4 119 3i 460 127 28 106 17 2 57 11 3 960 206 24 222 8 120 5 Oi 470 130 20 108 28 4 58 16 970 269 16 224 19 2 21 9 4i 480 133 12 111 4 60 2 2| 980 272 8 226 30 4 122 14 U 490 136 4 113 15 2 61 7 Of 990 275 229 6 24 5 500 138 32 115 26 4 62 11 Oi IMill. 277 28 231 17 2 ] 125 5 2 542 1200 Reed 2075 Dents 1300 2250 \ 64 INCHES WIDE. \ 1400 Reed 2425 Dents. 1500 2600 Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks atJANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots AT THE RATES OP WEPT of 100 picks 120 picks REQ.riRED. of 100 picks 120 picks REQ.t;iBED. Weft. per i ucn. per inc h. Weft. per inch. per inch. Yds . In. Yds . In. ( iths. No. Sk.Thd. Yd i. In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy.No.Sk. 50 h 2i 65 5000 14 1 5 4 11 4i 100 1 5 1 50 5100 15 1 6 3 11 6 200 2 1 4 3 21 5200 16 1 7 2 12 Of 300 3 2 3 4 69 5300 17 1 8 1 12 2i 400 4 3 2 6 41 5400 18 1 9 12 4 500 5 4 1 1 1 12 5500 19 1 9 5 12 5i 600 6 5 1 2 62 5600 20 1 10 4 13 Oi 700 7 5 5 1 4 33 5700 21 1 11 3 13 2 800 8 6 4 1 6 3 5800 22 1 12 2 13 34! 900 9 7 3 2 53 5900 23 1 13 1 13 5"l| 1000 10 8 2 2 2 24 6000 24 1 14 13 61 1 1100 11 9 1 2 4 6100 25 1 14 5 14 li 1200 12 10 2 5 44 6200 26 1 15 4 14 3 1300 13 10 5 3 15 6300 27 1 16 3 14 4| 1400 14 11 4 3 1 65 6400 28 1 17 2 14 6i 1500 15 12 3 3 3 36 6500 29 1 18 1 15 1 1600 16 13 2 3 5 6 6600 30 1 19 15 2i 1700 17 14 1 3 6 56 6700 31 1 19 5 15 4^ 1800 18 15 4 1 27 6800 32 1 20 4 15 5| 1900 19 15 5 4 2 77 6900 33 1 21 3 16 Oi 2000 20 16 4 4 4 47 7000 34 1 22 2 16 2 2100 21 17 3 4 6 18 7100 35 1 23 1 16 3| 1 2200 22 IS 2 5 68 7200 2 1 24 16 5i 2300 23 19 1 5 2 38 7300 2 1 1 24 5 17 2400 24 20 5 4 9 7400 2 2 1 25 4 17 li 2500 25 20 5 5 5 59 7500 2 3 1 26 3 17 3i 2600 26 21 4 6 30 7600 2 4 1 27 2 17 4| 2700 27 22 3 6 2 7700 2 5 1 28 1 17 6i 2800 28 23 2 6 3 50 7800 2 6 1 29 1 I 2900 29 24 1 6 5 21 7900 2 7 1 29 5 1 2J 3000 30 25 6 6 71 8000 2 8 1 30 4 1 4i 3100 31 25 5 7 1 41 8100 9 1 31 3 1 6 3200 32 26 4 7 2 28 8200 2 10 1 32 o 1 1 Oi 3300 33 27 3 7 4 62 8300 2 11 1 33 1 1 1 2i 3400 34 28 2 7 5 73 8400 2 12 . 1 34 114: 3500 35 29 1 8 1 3 8500 2 13 1 34 5 1 1 H 3600 30 8 2 53 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 2 0^ 3700 1 30 5 8 4 24 8700 2 15 2 3 1 2 1| 3800 2 31 4 8 5 74 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 2 3i 3900 3 32 3 9 44 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 2 5 4000 4 33 2 9 2 15 9000 2 18 2 3 1 2 6| 4100 5 34 1 9 3 65 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 3 li 4200 6 35 9 5 36 i 9200 2 20 2 4 4 13 3 4300 7 35 5 10 6 ; 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 3 4i 4400 8 1 4 lO 1 59 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 3 6i 4500 9 1 3 10 3 26 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 4 0| 4600 1 10 2 2 10 4 77 9600 2 24 2 8 1 4 2i 4700 11 3 1 10 6 47 9700 2 25 2 8 5 14 4 4800 12 4 U 1 18 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 4 5} 4900 13 4 5 U 2 68 1 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 5 Oi 543 S ."'!' SS "'""■ i " INCHES WIDE, j IZ ^'", f£, ''■:-"■ Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES OP WEPT or Shots Of Weft. AT THE RATES OP WEFT of Weft. 100 picks per inch 120 picks per inch. RCaUIRED. 100 picks per inch 120 picks per inch. REQOIRED. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk. IC 2 28 2 11 2 1 5 2 51C 141 24 118 2 65 17 2 2C 5 20 4 22 4 2 5 4 52C 144 16 120 13 2 67 4 4 3C 8 12 6 34 3 15 6 53C 147 8 122 24 4 68 9 6 4C 11 4 9 9 2 5 3 1 54C 150 125 69 15 1 50 13 32 11 20 4 6 8 3 550 152 28 127 11 2 71 2 3 60 16 24 13 32 7 13 5| 560 155 20 129 22 4 72 7 5 70 19 16 16 7 2 9 6| 570 158 12 131 34 73 13 80 22 8 18 18 4 10 6 If 580 161 4 134 9 2 75 1 0| 90 25 20 30 11 11 3| 590 163 32 136 20 4 76 5 3| 100 27 28 23 5 2 12 16 5| 600 166 24 138 32 77 10 5| 110 30 20 25 16 4 14 4 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 78 16 0| 120 33 12 27 28 15 9 2i 620 172 8 143 18 4 80 3 2| 130 36 4 30 3 2 16 14 4i 630 175 145 30 81 8 4| 1 140 38 32 32 14 4 18 1 6i 640 177 28 148 5 2 82 13 6i 150 41 24 34 26 19 7 li 650 180 20 150 16 4 84 1 li 160 44 16 37 1 2 20 12 3i 660 183 12 152 28 85 6 3i 170 47 8 39 12 4 21 17 5i 670 186 4 155 3 2 86 11 5i 180 50 41 24 23 5 Oi 680 188 32 157 14 4 87 17 Oi 190 52 28 43 35 2 24 10 2i 690 191 24 159 26 89 4 2i 200 55 20 46 10 4 25 15 4i 700 194 16 162 1 2 90 9 4i 210 58 12 48 22 27 2 6i 710 197 8 164 12 4 91 14 6i 220 61 4 50 33 2 28 8 H 720 200 166 24 93 2 H 230 63 32 53 8 4 29 13 3 730 202 28 168 35 2 94 7 3i 240 66 24 55 20 31 5 740 205 20 171 10 4 95 12 5i 250 69 16 57 31 2 32 6 750 208 12 173 22 97 Oi 260 72 8 60 6 4 33 II 2 760 211 4 175 33 2 98 5 2i 270 75 62 18 34 16 4 770 213 32 178 8 4 99 10 4 280 77 28 64 29 2 36 3 6 780 216 24 180 20 100 15 6 290 80 20 67 4 4 37 9 1 790 219 16 182 31 2 102 3 1 300 83 12 69 16 38 14 3 800 222 8 185 6 4 103 8 3 310 86 4 71 27 2 40 1 5 810 225 187 18 104 13 5 320 88 32 74 2 4 41 7 820 227 28 189 29 2 106 1 330 91 24 76 14 42 12 If 830 230 20 192 4 4 107 6 2 340 94 16 78 25 2 43 17 3i 840 233 12 194 16 108 11 4 350 97 8 81 4 45 4 5| 850 236 4 196 27 2 109 16 5| 360 100 83 12 46 10 Of 860 238 32 199 2 4 111 4 0| 370 102 28 85 23 2 47 15 2| 870 241 24 201 14 112 9 2| 380 105 20 87 34 4 49 2 4| 880 244 16 203 25 2 113 14 4| 390 108 12 90 10 50 7 6i 890 247 8 206 4 115 1 6J 400 111 4 92 21 2 51 13 li 900 250 208 12 116 7 1| 410 113 32 94 32 4 53 3i 910 252 28 210 23 2 117 12 3i 420 116 24 97 8 54 5 5i 920 255 20 212 34 4 118 17 5i 430 119 16 99 19 2 55 11 Ol 930 258 12 215 10 120 5 Oi 440 122 8 101 30 4 56 16 2i 940 261 4 217 21 2 ] L21 10 2i 450 125 104 6 58 3 4i 950 263 32 219 32 4 ] 22 15 4i 460 127 28 106 17 2 59 8 6i 960 266 24 222 8 ] 24 2 6i 470 130 20 108 28 4 60 14 H 970 269 16 224 19 2 ] 25 8 li 480 133 12 111 4 62 1 3i 980 272 8 226 30 4 1 26 13 5i 490 136 4 113 15 2 63 6 5i 990 275 229 6 1 28 5i 500 138 32 115 26 4 64 12 iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 1 29 6 Oi 544 n 1200 1300 Reed 2140 Dents. 2318 I 66 [NCHES WIDE. \ 1400 Reed 2500 Dents. 1500 2682 Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH 1 Picks QUANTITY OF CLOTH or A7 r THE RATES OF \ WEFT 1 or Shots of AT THI . RATES 01 WEFT Shots - of 100 picks 120 picks 1 REaCIRED. j 100 p icks 120 picks RG^CIRED. Weft. per inch. pel inch ■ ! Weft. per inch. 1 per inch Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths.| No.Sk.Thd.; Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy.No.Sk. 50 i 2i 67 : 5000 14 1 5 4 12 100 1 5 1 54 ; 5100 15 1 6 3 12 If 200 2 1 4 3 29 5200 16 1 7 2 12 3i 300 3 2 3 5 1 5300 17 1 8 1 12 5 400 4 3 2 6 58 5400 18 1 9 12 6| 500 5 4 1 1 1 32 ; 5500 19 1 9 5 13 li 600 6 5 1 3 7 5600 20 1 10 4 13 3 700 7 5 5 1 4 61 i 5700 21 1 11 3 13 4| 800 8 6 4 1 6 36 ; 5800 22 1 12 2 13 6i 900 9 7 3 2 1 10 5900 23 1 13 1 14 H 1000 10 8 2 2 2 64 6000 24 1 14 14 2| 1100 11 9 1 2 4 39 6100 25 1 14 5 14 4i 1200 12 10 2 6 13 1 6200 26 1 15 4 14 6i 1300 13 10 5 3 68 i 6300 27 1 16 3 15 1 1400 14 11 4 3 2 42 \ 6400 28 1 17 2 15 2i 1500 15 12 3 3 4 17 i 6500 •29 1 18 1 15 4i 1600 16 13 2 3 5 71 6600 30 1 19 15 6 1700 17 14 1 4 45 6700 31 1 19 5 16 Oi 1800 18 15 4 2 20 6800 32 1 20 4 16 2i 1900 19 15 5 4 3 74 6900 33 1 21 3 16 4 2000 20 16 4 4 5 49 1 7000 34 1 22 2 16 5i ■ 2100 21 17 3 5 23 ; 7100 35 1 23 1 17 Oi 2200 22 18 2 5 1 78 1 7200 2 1 24 17 2 2300 23 19 1 5 3 52 i 7300 2 1 1 24 5 17 3i 2400 24 20 5 5 27 ! 7400 2 2 1 25 4 17 5i 2500 25 20 5 6 1 7500 2 3 1 26 3 1 2600 26 21 4 6 1 50 7600 2 4 1 27 2 1 1| 2700 27 22 3 6 3 30 7700 2 5 1 28 1 1 3i 2800 28 23 2 6 5 4 7800 2 6 1 29 1 5 2900 29 24 1 6 6 59 7900 2 7 1 29 5 1 6i 3000 30 25 7 1 33 8000 2 8 1 30 4 1 1 Oi 3100 31 25 5 7 3 8 8100 2 9 1 31 3 1 1 3 3200 32 26 4 7 3 78 8200 2 10 1 32 2 1 1 4J 3300 33 27 3 7 6 36 8300 2 11 1 33 1 1 1 6i 3400 34 28 2 8 51 8400 2 12 1 34 1 2 H 3500 35 29 1 8 2 66 8500 2 13 1 34 5 1 2 2i 3600 30 8 4 40 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 2 4J 3700 1 30 5 8 6 14 8700 2 15 2 3 1 2 6i 3800 2 31 4 9 69 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 3 1 3900 3 32 3 9 2 43 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 3 2i 4000 4 33 2 9 4 18 9000 2 18 2 3 1 3 4i 4100 5 34 1 9 5 72 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 3 6 4200 6 35 10 46 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 4 Oi 4300 7 35 5 10 3 21 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 4 2i 4400 8 1 4 10 4 75 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 4 4 4500 9 1 3 10 6 49 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 4 5i 4600 10 2 2 11 25 9600 2 24 2 8 1 5 Oi 4700 11 3 1 11 1 79 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 5 2 4800 1 12 4 11 3 53 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 5 3| 4900 1 13 4 5 11 5 2S 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 5 5i 545 1600 Reed 2852 Dents 1700 3034 • I fifi TTvrPHT?« wrnp' S 1800 Reed 3214 Dents. \ ^^ INCHES WIDE, j 2(,QQ 33gg Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEFT of 100 picks 120 picks REQ.niRED. 100 picks 120 picks REQUIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thads. Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No.Rk. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. fiths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 6 510 141 24 118 2 68 2| 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 12 520 144 16 120 13 2 69 6 2| 30 8 12 6 34 4 530 147 8 122 24 4 70 12 3 40 11 4 9 9 2 5 6 Oi 540 150 125 72 3 50 13 32 11 20 4 6 12 Oi 550 152 28 127 11 2 73 6 3 60 16 24 13 32 8 Oi 560 155 20 129 22 4 74 12 3 70 19 16 16 7 2 9 6 Oi 570 158 12 131 34 76 3i 80 22 8 18 18 4 10 12 Oi 580 161 4 134 9 2 77 6 3i 90 25 20 30 12 Oi 590 163 32 136 20 4 78 12 3i 100 27 28 23 5 2 13 6 Oi 600 166 24 138 32 80 3i 110 30 20 25 16 4 14 12 Oi 610 169 16 141 7 2 81 6 3i 120 33 12 27 28 16 0| 620 172 8 143 18 4 82 12 3i 130 36 4 30 3 2 17 6 0| 630 175 145 30 84 3i 140 38 32 32 14 4 18 12 Of 640 177 28 148 5 2 85 6 3i 150 41 24 34 26 20 0| 650 180 20 150 16 4 86 12 3i 160 44 16 37 1 2 21 6 1 660 183 12 ]52 28 88 3i 170 47 8 39 12 4 22 12 1 670 186 4 155 3 2 89 6 3i 180 50 41 24 24 1 680 188 32 157 14 4 90 12 3| 190 52 28 43 35 2 25 6 1 690 191 24 159 26 92 3| 200 55 20 46 10 4 26 12 1 700 194 16 162 1 2 93 6 3| 210 58 12 48 22 28 H 710 197 8 164 12 4 94 12 4 220 61 4 50 33 2 29 6 H 720 200 166 24 96 4 230 63 32 53 8 4 30 12 H 730 202 28 168 35 2 97 6 4 240 66 24 55 20 32 li 740 205 20 171 10 4 98 12 4 250 69 16 57 31 2 33 6 H 750 208 12 173 22 100 4i 260 72 8 60 6 4 34 12 li 760 211 4 175 33 2 101 6 4i 270 75 62 18 36 li 770 213 32 178 8 4 102 12 4i 280 77 28 64 29 2 37 6 li 780 216 24 180 20 104 4i 290 80 20 67 4 4 38 12 li 790 219 16 182 31 2 105 6 4i 300 83 12 69 16 40 1| 800 222 8 185 6 4 106 12 4i 310 86 4 71 27 2 41 6 If 810 225 187 18 108 4i 320 88 32 74 2 4 42 12 1| 820 227 28 189 29 2 109 6 4i 330 91 24 76 14 44 1| 830 230 20 192 4 4 110 12 4i 340 94 16 78 25 2 45 6 2 840 233 12 194 16 112 4i 350 97 8 81 4 46 12 2 850 236 4 196 27 2 113 6 4| 360 100 83 12 48 2 860 238 32 199 2 4 114 12 4| 370 102 28 85 23 2 49 6 2 870 241 24 201 14 116 4| 380 105 20 87 34 4 50 12 2 880 244 16 203 25 2 117 6 5 390 108 12 90 10 52 2i 890 247 8 206 4 118 12 5 400 HI 4 92 21 2 53 6 2i 900 250 208 12 120 5 410 113 32 94 32 4 54 12 2i 910 252 28 210 23 2 121 6 5 420 116 24 97 8 56 2i 920 255 20 212 34 4 122 12 5 430 119 16 99 19 2 57 6 2i 930 258 12 215 10 124 5i 440 122 8 101 30 4 58 12 2i 940 261 4 217 21 2 125 6 5i 450 125 104 6 60 2i 950 263 32 219 32 4 126 12 5i 460 127 28 106 17 2 61 6 2i 960 266 24 222 8 128 5i 470 130 20 108 28 4 62 12 2i 970 269 16 224 19 2 129 6 5i 480 133 12 111 4 64 2| 980 272 8 226 30 4 130 12 5i 490 136 4 113 15 2 65 6 2| 990 275 229 6 132 5i 500 138 32 115 26 4 66 12 2J iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 133 6 oi ,1 69 546 1200 Reed 2205 Dents. 1300 2390 [ 68 INCHES WIDE. J 1400 Reed 2575 Dents. 1500 2765 Picks aUANTIT Y OP CLOTH 1 i Picks ftUANTlTY OF CLOTH ~ or AT THE RATES OF WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OF WEFT Shots - of 100 picks 120 pick 3 REQ.CIKED. 1 100 picks 120 pick s REQ.UIRED. Weft. per inch. per inch 1 Weft. per inch. per inch Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths.| No. Sk.Thd-l Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. Si>y. No Sk. 50 i 2i 69 5000 14 1 5 4 12 2i 100 1 5 1 58 5100 15 1 6 3 12 4i 200 2 1 4 3 37 5200 16 1 7 2 12 6 300 3 2 3 5 14 5300 17 1 8 1 13 0| 1 400 4 3 2 6 74 5400 18 1 9 13 2i 500 5 4 1 1 1 53 5500 19 1 9 5 13 4i 600 6 5 1 3 31 5600 20 1 10 4 13 6 700 7 5 5 1 5 10 5700 21 1 11 3 14 0| 800 8 6 4 1 6 68 5800 22 1 12 2 14 H 900 9 7 3 2 1 47 5900 23 1 13 1 14 44 1000 10 8 2 2 3 25 6000 24 1 14 14 6 1100 11 9 1 2 5 4 6100 25 1 14 5 15 0| 1200 12 10 2 6 62 i 6200 26 1 15 4 15 24 1300 13 10 5 3 1 41 6300 27 1 16 3 15 4 1400 14 11 4 3 3 19 6400 28 1 17 2 15 5| 1500 15 12 3 3 4 78 6500 29 1 18 1 16 H 1600 16 13 2 3 6 56 6600 30 1 19 16 24 1700 17 14 1 4 1 35 6700 31 1 19 5 16 4 1800 18 15 4 3 13 6800 32 1 20 4 16 5| 1900 19 15 5 4 4 72 6900 33 1 21 3 17 Oi 2000 20 16 4 4 6 50 7000 34 1 22 2 17 24 2100 21 17 3 5 1 29 7100 35 1 23 1 17 4 2200 22 18 2 5 3 7 7200 2 1 24 17 5| 2300 23 19 1 5 4 66 7300 2 1 1 24 5 1 H 2400 24 20 5 6 44 7400 2 2 1 25 4 1 2 2500 25 20 5 6 1 23 7500 2 3 1 26 3 1 3i 2600 26 21 4 6 3 1 \ 7600 2 4 1 27 2 1 5i 2700 27 22 3 6 4 60 7700 2 5 1 28 1 1 1 04 2800 28 23 2 6 6 38 7800 2 6 1 29 1 1 2 2900 29 24 1 7 1 13 7900 2 7 1 29 5 1 1 3i 3000 30 25 7 2 76 8000 2 8 1 30 4 1 1 H 3100 31 25 5 7 4 54 8100 2 9 1 31 3 1 2 04 3200 32 26 4 7 5 49 8200 2 10 1 32 2 1 2 2 3300 33 27 3 8 11 8300 2 11 1 33 1 1 2 H 340U ■ 34 28 2 8 2 30 8400 2 12 1 34 1 2 5i 3500 35 29 1 8 4 48 8500 2 13 1 34 5 1 3 04 3600 30 8 6 27 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 3 2 3700 1 30 5 9 1 5 8700 2 15 2 3 1 3 3| 3800 2 31 4 9 2 64 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 3 54 3900 3 32 3 9 4 42 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 4 4000 4 33 2 9 6 21 9000 2 18 2 3 1 4 2 4100 5 34 1 10 79 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 4 H 4200 6 35 10 2 58 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 4 54 4300 I 7 35 5 10 4 36 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 5 2 4400 i 1 8 1 4 11 1 34 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 5 1| 4500 9 1 1 3 11 3 17 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 5 3i 460( 10 1 2 o 11 2 52 9600 2 24 2 8 1 5 04 4700 11 1 3 1 11 4 30 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 6 4800 1 12 1 4 11 6 8 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 6 14 4900 1 13 1 4 5 12 67 9900 2 27 2 10 3 I 6 3i| 547 1600 Reed 2940 Dents. / ^q TMrwira xvim? S 1800 Reed 3310 Dents. 1700 3125 \ ^^ INCHES WIDE, j ^^^p gg.^ Picks aUANTITY OP CLOTH Picks aUANTITy OF CLOTH or Sliots or AT THE RATES OP WEPT or AT THE RATES OP WEFT 100 picks 120 picks REaUIRED. iShota of 100 picks 120 picks REQ.i;iRED. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 6 5 51C 141 24 118 2 70 1 3i 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 13 52L 144 16 120 13 2 71 8 1| 30 8 12 6 34 4 2 li 53 C 147 8 122 24 4 72 14 6| 40 11 4 9 9 2 5 8 6i 540 150 125 74 3 5 50 13 32 11 20 4 6 15 4| 550 152 28 127 11 2 75 10 3 60 16 24 13 32 8 4 3 56C 155 20 129 22 4 76 17 H 70 19 16 16 7 2 9 11 1 570 158 12 131 34 78 5 6i 80 22 8 18 18 4 10 17 6i 580 161 4 134 9 2 79 12 4i 90 25 20 30 12 6 4i 590 163 32 136 20 4 81 1 2| 100 27 28 23 5 2 13 13 2J 600 166 24 138 32 82 8 1 110 30 20 25 16 4 15 2 0^ 610 169 16 141 7 2 83 14 6 120 33 12 27 28 16 8 5| 620 172 8 143 18 4 85 3 4i 130 36 4 30 3 2 17 14 4 630 175 145 30 86 10 2i 140 38 32 32 14 4 19 4 2 640 177 28 148 5 2 87 17 Oi 150 41 24 34 26 20 11 Oi 650 180 20 150 16 4 89 5 5i 160 44 16 37 1 2 21 17 5i 660 183 12 152 28 90 12 3| 170 47 8 39 12 4 23 6 3i 670 186 4 155 3 2 92 1 2 180 50 41 24 24 13 1| 680 188 32 157 14 4 93 8 190 52 28 43 35 2 26 1 6| 690 191 24 159 26 94 14 5i 200 55 20 46 10 4 27 8 5 700 194 16 162 1 2 96 3 H 210 58 12 48 22 23 15 3 710 197 8 164 12 4 97 10 li 220 61 4 50 33 2 30 4 H 720 200 166 24 98 16 C| 230 63 32 53 8 4 31 10 6i 730 202 28 168 35 2 100 5 4| 240 66 24 55 20 32 17 4i 740 205 20 171 10 4 lOi 12 3 250 69 16 57 31 2 34 6 2| 750 208 12 173 22 103 1 1 260 72 8 60 6 4 35 13 Of 760 211 4 175 33 2 104 7 6i 270 75 62 18 37 1 6 770 213 32 178 8 4 105 14 4i 280 77 28 64 29 2 38 8 4 780 216 24 180 20 107 3 2i 290 80 20 67 4 4 39 15 2i 790 219 16 182 31 2 108 10 C| 300 83 12 69 16 41 4 Oi 800 222 8 185 6 4 109 16 5J 310 86 4 71 27 2 42 10 5i 810 225 187 18 111 5 4 320 88 32 74 2 4 43 17 3| 820 227 28 189 29 2 112 12 2 330 91 24 76 14 45 6 IJ 830 230 20 192 4 4 114 1 Oi 340 94 16 78 25 2 46 13 840 233 12 194 16 115 7 5i 350 97 8 81 4 48 1 5i 850 236 4 190 27 2 116 14 3i 360 100 83 12 49 8 3i 860 238 32 199 2 4 118 3 1| 370 102 28 85 23 2 50 15 1^ 870 241 24 201 14 119 9 6| 380 105 20 87 34 4 52 3 6i 880 244 16 203 25 2 120 16 5 390 108 12 90 10 53 10 4f 890 247 8 206 4 122 5 H 400 111 4 92 21 2 54 17 3 900 250 208 12 123 12 li 410 113 32 94 32 4 56 6 1 910 252 28 210 23 2 125 6i 420 116 24 97 8 57 12 6i 920 255 20 212 34 4 ! 126 7 4i 430 119 16 99 19 2 59 1 4i 930 258 12 215 10 ; 127 14 2i 440 122 8 101 30 4 60 8 2i 940 261 4 217 21 2 128 3 1 450 125 104 6 61 15 OJ 950 263 32 219 32 4 30 9 6 460 127 28 106 17 2 63 3 5| 960 266 24 222 8 ] 31 16 4i 470 130 20 108 28 4 64 10 4 970 269 16 224 19 2 ] 33 5 2i 480 133 12 111 4 65 17 2 980 272 8 226 30 4 1 34 12 di 490 136 4 113 15 2 67 6 Oi 990 275 229 6 ;] 36 5| 500 138 32 ^ — 115 26 4 68 12 5i 1 iMiU. 277 28 231 17 2 |1 37 7 3| 548 1200 Reed 2270 Dents. 1300 2460 70 INCHES WIDE. "[ 1400 Reed 2650 Dents. 1500 2845 . Picks Q.UANTIT Y OP CLOTH 1 Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH | or AT THE RATES OP WEPT or Shots of AT THi RATES OF WEFT Shots - of 100 picks 120 picks REQ. [TIRED. 100 p cks 120 pick s REQ.UIRED. Wea. per iiicli. per inch J Weft. per inch. 1 per inch Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths.| No.Sk.Thd.) Yds In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy.No.Sk. 50 i 2i 73 5000 14 1 5 4 12 5 100 1 5 1 63 5100 15 1 6 3 13 200 2 1 4 3 45 5200 16 1 7 2 13 1| 300 3 2 3 5 25 5300 17 1 8 1 13 3i 400 4 3 2 1 27 5400 18 1 9 13 5i 500 5 4 1 1 2 13 5500 19 1 9 5 14 600 6 5 1 3 56 5600 20 1 10 4 14 1| 700 7 5 5 1 5 38 5700 21 1 11 3 14 3i 800 8 6 4 2 31 5800 22 1 12 2 14 5i 900 9 7 3 2 2 13 5900 23 1 13 1 15 Oi 1000 10 8 2 2 3 66 6000 24 1 14 15 2 1100 11 9 1 2 5 48 6100 25 1 14 5 15 3| 1200 12 10 3 31 6200 26 1 15 4 15 5i 1300 13 10 5 3 2 14 6300 27 1 16 3 16 Oi 1400 14 11 4 3 3 76 6400 28 1 17 2 16 2 1500 15 12 3 3 5 59 6500 29 1 18 1 16 3J 1600 16 13 2 4 41 6600 30 1 19 16 5| 1700 17 14 1 4 2 24 6700 31 1 19 5 17 Oi 1800 18 15 4 4 7 6800 32 1 20 4 17 2i 1900 19 15 5 4 5 69 6900 33 1 21 3 17 4 2000 20 16 4 5 52 7000 34 1 22 2 17 5| 2100 21 17 3 5 2 34 7100 35 1 23 1 1 Oi 2200 22 18 2 5 4 17 7200 2 1 24 1 2i 2300 23 19 1 5 6 7300 2 1 1 24 5 10 4 2400 24 20 6 62 7400 2 2 1 25 4 1 6 2500 25 20 5 6 2 45 7500 2 3 1 26 3 1 1 Of 2600 26 21 4 6 4 27 7600 2 4 1 27 2 1 1 2i 2700 27 22 3 6 6 10 7700 2 5 1 28 1 1 1 4i 2800 28 23 2 7 73 7800 2 6 1 29 1 1 6 2900 29 24 1 7 2 47 7900 2 7 1 29 5 1 2 0| 3000 30 25 7 4 38 8000 2 8 1 30 4 1 2 2i 3100 31 25 5 7 6 30 8100 2 9 1 31 3 1 2 4i 3200 32 26 4 8 14 8200 2 10 1 32 2 1 2 6 3300 33 27 3 8 2 66 8300 2 11 1 33 1 1 3 1 3400 34 28 2 8 4 60 8400 2 12 1 34 1 3 2| 3500 35 29 1 8 6 31 8500 2 13 1 34 5 1 3 4i 3600 30 9 1 13 8600 2 14 1 35 4 1 3 6i 3700 1 30 5 9 2 76 8700 2 15 2 3 1 4 1 3800 2 31 4 9 4 58 8800 2 16 2 1 2 1 4 2J 3900 3 32 3 9 6 41 8900 2 17 2 2 1 1 4 4i 4000 4 33 2 10 1 24 9000 2 18 2 3 1 4 6i 4100 5 34 1 10 3 6 9100 2 19 2 3 5 1 5 H 4200 6 35 10 4 69 9200 2 20 2 4 4 1 3 3 4300 7 35 5 10 6 51 9300 2 21 2 5 3 1 5 4i 44O0 8 1 4 11 1 34 9400 2 22 2 6 2 1 5 6i 450C 9 1 1 3 11 3 17 9500 2 23 2 7 1 1 6 U 460C 10 1 2 2 11 4 79 9600 2 24 2 8 1 6 3 470C 11 1 3 1 11 6 62 9700 2 25 2 8 5 1 6 5 480C 12 1 4 12 1 44 9800 2 26 2 9 4 1 6 6| 490C 13 1 4 5 12 3 27 9900 2 27 2 10 3 1 7 lij 549 1600 Reed 3025 Dents 1700 3220 •( 70 INCHES WIDE. | ^Jgg ^'^^ ^410 Dents. Picks aUANTITY OF CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OP CLOTH or Shots AT THE RATES OP WEFT or Shots of AT THE RATES OP WEPT of 100 picks 120 picks RBaUlRBD. 100 picks 120 picks REaUIREC. Weft. per inch. per inch. Weft. per inch. per inch. Thsds. Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy. No.Sk. Thsds Yds. In. Yds. In. 6ths. Spy. No. Sk. 10 2 28 2 11 2 1 7 3i 510 141 24 118 2 72 2 4i 20 5 20 4 22 4 2 14 6i 520 M4 16 120 13 2 73 10 Oi 30 8 12 6 34 4 4 21 530 147 8 122 24 4 74 17 3 40 11 4 9 9 2 5 11 6 540 150 125 76 7 50 13 32 11 20 4 7 1 2i 550 152 28 127 11 2 77 14 3i 60 16 24 13 32 8 8 5i 560 155 20 129 22 4 79 3 6| 70 19 16 16 7 2 9 16 1| 570 158 12 131 34 80 11 2i 80 22 8 18 18 4 11 5 5 580 161 4 134 9 2 82 6i 90 25 20 30 12 13 H 590 163 32 136 20 4 83 8 2i 100 27 28 23 5 2 14 2 4i 600 166 24 138 32 84 15 5i 110 30 20 25 16 4 15 10 0| 610 169 16 141 7 2 86 5 1| 120 33 12 27 28 16 17 3| 620 172 8 143 18 4 87 12 5 130 36 4 30 3 2 18 7 630 175 145 30 89 2 1 140 38 32 32 14 4 19 14 3i 640 177 28 148 5 2 90 9 4i 150 41 24 34 26 21 3 6i 650 180 20 150 16 4 91 17 Oi 160 44 16 37 1 2 22 11 2| 660 183 12 152 28 93 6 3i 170 47 8 39 12 4 24 6 670 186 4 155 3 2 94 14 180 50 41 24 25 8 2i 680 188 32 157 14 4 96 3 3i 190 52 28 43 35 2 26 15 5i 690 191 24 159 26 97 11 6i 200 55 20 46 10 4 28 5 1| 700 194 16 162 1 2 99 2| 210 58 12 48 22 29 12 5 710 197 8 164 12 4 100 7 6 220 61 4 50 33 2 31 2 H 720 200 166 24 101 15 2i 230 63 32 53 8 4 32 9 4i 730 202 28 168 35 2 103 4 5i 240 66 24 55 20 33 17 Of 740 205 20 171 10 4 104 12 1| 250 69 16 57 31 2 35 9 4 750 208 12 173 22 106 1 5 260 72 8 60 6 4 36 14 Oi 760 211 4 175 33 2 107 9 H 270 75 62 18 38 3 3i 770 213 32 178 8 4 108 16 4i 280 77 28 64 29 2 39 10 6| 780 216 24 180 20 110 6 Of 290 80 20 67 4 4 41 3 790 219 16 182 31 2 111 13 4 300 83 12 69 16 42 7 6i 800 222 8 185 6 4 113 3 Oi 310 86 4 71 27 2 43 15 2i 810 225 187 18 114 10 3i 320 88 32 74 2 4 45 4 5| 820 227 28 189 29 2 J15 17 6| 330 91 24 76 14 46 12 2 830 230 20 192 4 4 117 7 2| 340 94 16 78 25 2 48 1 5i 840 233 12 194 16 118 14 6 350 97 8 81 4 49 9 li 850 236 4 196 27 2 120 4 2i 360 100 83 12 50 16 4i 860 238 32 199 2 4 121 11 5| 370 102 28 85 23 2 52 6 1 870 241 24 201 14 123 1 1| 380 105 20 87 34 4 53 13 4 880 244 16 203 25 2 124 8 5 390 108 12 90 10 55 3 Oi 890 247 8 206 4 125 16 li 400 111 4 92 21 2 56 10 3| 900 250 208 12 127 5 4i 410 113 32 94 32 4 57 17 6| 910 252 28 210 23 2 128 13 0| 420 116 24 97 8 59 7 3 920 255 20 212 34 4 130 2 4 430 119 16 99 19 2 60 14 6i 930 258 12 215 10 131 10 Qi 440 122 8 101 30 4 62 4 2i 940 261 4 217 21 2 132 17 3i 450 125 104 6 63 11 5| 950 263 32 219 32 4 134 6 6| 460 127 28 106 17 2 65 1 2 960 266 24 222 8 135 14 3 470 130 20 108 28 4 66 8 5i 970 269 16 224 19 2 137 3 6i 480 133 12 111 4 67 16 li 980 272 8 226 30 4 138 11 2i 490 136 4 113 15 2 69 5 4| 990 275 229 6 140 si 500 1 138 32 115 26 4 70 13 1 iMill. 277 28 231 17 2 141 8 2 550 1200 Reed 2335 Dents. 1300 2530 I s 72 INCHES WIDE. 1 1400 Reed 2730 Dents. 1500 2925 Picks ftUANTITS OF CLOTH Picks QUANTITY OF CLOTH or AT THE RATES 01 WEFT or Shots AT THE RATES OF WEFT Shots of 100 picks 130 pick s REQUIRED. or 100 picks 120 picks REQUIRED. II Weft. per i ich. per inch. Weft. per nch. per inch. Yds In. Yds In. 6ths. No. Sk.Thd. Yds . In. Yds. In. iths. Spy.No.Sk.il 50 i 2i 73 5000 1 14 1 5 4 13 0| 100 1 5 1 67 5100 1 15 1 6 3 13 2i 200 2 1 4 3 53 5200 1 16 1 7 2 13 4i 300 3 2 3 5 38 5300 1 17 1 8 1 13 6i 400 4 3 2 1 27 5400 1 18 1 9 14 1 500 5 4 1 1 2 13 5500 1 19 1 9 5 14 2| 600 6 5 1 4 5600 1 20 1 10 4 14 4| 700 7 5 5 1 5 67 5700 1 21 1 11 3 14 6i 800 8 6 4 2 53 5800 1 22 1 12 2 15 li 900 9 7 3 2 2 40 5900 1 23 1 13 1 15 3i 1000 10 8 2 2 4 27 6000 1 24 1 14 15 5 1100 11 9 1 2 6 13 6 IOC 1 25 1 14 5 16 Oi 1200 12 10 3 1 6200 1 26 1 15 4 16 1| 1300 13 10 5 3 2 67 6300 1 27 1 16 3 16 4i 1400 14 11 4 3 4 53 6400 1 28 1 17 2 16 5i 1500 15 12 3 3 6 40 6500 1 29 1 18 1 17 Oi 1600 16 13 2 4 1 27 6600 1 30 1 19 17 2 1700 17 14 1 4 3 13 6700 1 31 1 19 5 17 3| 1800 18 15 4 5 6800 1 32 1 20 4 17 5| 1900 19 15 5 4 6 67 6900 1 33 1 21 3 1 Oi 2000 20 16 4 5 1 53 7000 1 34 1 22 2 2i 2100 21 17 3 5 3 40 7100 1 35 1 23 1 4i 2200 22 18 2 5 5 27 7200 2 1 24 6 2300 23 19 1 6 13 7300 2 1 1 24 5 1 0| 2400 24 20 6 2 7400 2 2 1 25 4 1 2| 2500 25 20 5 6 3 67 7500 2 3 1 26 3 1 4i 2600 26 21 4 6 5 53 7600 2 4 1 27 2 1 6i 2700 27 22 3 7 40 7700 2 5 1 23 1 2 1 2800 28 23 2 7 2 27 7800 2 6 1 29 2 3 2900 29 24 1 7 4 1 7900 2 7 1 29 5 2 41 3000 30 25 7 6 8000 2 8 1 30 4 2 61 3100 31 25 5 8 67 8100 2 9 1 31 3 3 li 3200 32 26 4 8 1 69 8200 2 10 1 32 2 3 3i 3300 33 27 3 8 3 40 8300 2 11 1 33 1 3 5i 3400 34 28 2 8 5 67 8400 2 12 1 34 4 3500 35 29 1 9 1 13 8500 2 13 1 34 5 4 IJ 3600 30 9 3 8600 2 14 1 35 4 4 3| 3700 1 30 5 9 4 67 8700 2 15 2 3 4 5i 3800 2 31 4 9 6 53 8600 2 16 2 1 2 5 Oi 3900 3 32 3 10 1 40 8900 2 17 2 2 1 5 2i 4000 4 33 2 10 3 27 9000 2 18 2 3 5 4 4100 5 34 1 10 5 13 9100 2 19 2 3 5 5 5| 4200 6 35 11 9200 2 20 2 4 4 6 0} 4300 7 35 5 11 1 67 9300 2 21 2 5 3 6 2i 4400 8 1 4 11 3 54 9400 2 22 2 6 2 6 4i 4500 9 1 3 11 5 41 9500 2 23 2 7 1 6 6 4600 10 2 2 12 27 9600 2 24 2 8 7 1 4700 11 3 1 12 2 13 9700 2 25 2 8 5 7 2| 4800 12 4 12 3 79 9800 2 26 2 9 4 7 4| ■ 4900 1 13 4 5 12 5 66 i 9900 2 27 2 10 3 7 6i 551 As the breadth of Cloth in the precedmg pages advances by two at a time, and that at even numbers of inches, this page of One Inch, is intended as a Unk whereby the chain may be connected wherever an odd number occurs. One Inch Wide. Picks WKFT REQUIRED. Picks 5000 5100 5200 5300 5400 WEFT REQUIRED. Picks. WEFT REQUIRED. Picks. WEFT REaUIRED. 50 100 200 300 400 Sk. Thd. 1 2 4 6 8 Sk. Thd. 22 24 26 28 30 Thsd9. 10 20 30 40 50 Spy. No. Sk. Thds. 2 44 5 7 1 51 1 3 15 1 5 59 Thsds- 510 520 530 540 550 Spy. No. Sk. Thds. 1 3 69 1 6 33 1 1 1 76 1 1 4 40 12 4 500 600 700 800 900 10 12 14 16 18 5500 5600 5700 5800 5900 32 34 36 38 40 60 70 80 90 100 2 1 22 2 3 66 2 6 30 3 1 73 3 4 37 560 570 580 590 600 2 2 47 2 5 11 3 55 3 3 19 3 5 62 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 20 22 24 26 29 6000 6100 6200 6300 6400 42 44 46 48 50 110 120 130 140 150 4 1 4 2 45 4 5 8 5 2 5 3 16 610 620 630 640 650 4 1 26 4 3 70 4 6 33 5 1 77 5 4 41 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 31 33 35 37 39 6500 6600 6700 6800 6900 52 54 56 59 61 160 170 180 190 200 5 5 59 6 1 23 6 3 67 6 6 30 7 1 74 660 670 680 690 700 6 4 6 2 48 6 5 12 7 56 7 3 19 2000 2100 2200 2300 2400 41 43 45 47 49 7000 7100 7200 7300 7400 63 65 67 69 71 210 220 230 240 250 7 4 38 8 2 8 2 45 8 5 9 9 53 710 720 730 740 750 1 7 5 63 8 1 27 8 3 70 8 6 34 9 1 78 2500 2600 2700 2800 2900 51 53 55 57 59 7500 7600 7700 7800 7900 2 73 75 77 79 1 260 270 280 290 300 9 3 16 9 5 60 10 1 24 10 3 67 10 6 31 760 770 780 790 800 9 4 41 10 5 10 2 49 10 5 13 11 56 3000 3100 3200 3300 3400 61 63 65 67 69 8000 8100 8200 8300 8400 2 2 2 2 2 3 5 7 9 11 310 320 330 340 350 ] ] ] 11 1 75 11 4 39 12 2 12 2 46 12 5 10 810 820 830 840 850 11 3 20 11 5 64 12 1 27 12 3 71 12 6 35 3500 3600 3700 3800 3900 71 73 75 77 79 8500 8600 8700 8800 8900 2 2 2 2 2 13 15 17 19 21 360 370 380 390 400 ] ] ] ] ] 13 53 13 3 17 13 5 61 14 1 24 L4 3 68 860 870 880 890 900 13 1 79 13 4 42 14 6 14 2 50 14 5 13 , 4000 4100 4200 4300 4400 1 4 6 8 10 9000 9100 9200 9300 9400 2 2 2 2 2 23 25 27 29 31 410 420 430 440 450 ] ] ] ] ] 4 6 32 5 1 76 5 4 39 6 3 6 2 47 910 920 930 940 950 15 57 15 3 21 15 5 64 16 1 28 16 3 72 4500 4600 4700 4800 4900 1 12 14 16 18 20 9500 9600 9700 9800 9900 2 2 2 2 2 34 36 38 40 42 460 470 480 490 500 ] ] ] ] 1 6 5 10 7 54 7 3 18 7 5 62 1 25 960 970 980 990 1 Mil. 2 2 16 6 36 17 1 79 17 4 43 7 2 50 Note. — As the foregoing tables are calculated only for the pur- pose of showing the quantity of flowering weft that is requisite for the different breadths of webs contained therein, the manufacturer must not suppose that the number of dents or splits that are there given, for the breadth of any particular reed, are sufiicient for the same width of cloth to which it refers. As flowering weft is gen- erally catched upon two cords on the outside of each selvage of the web, it may be fairly estimated that the length of a pick or shot is equal to the breadth of the web in the reed. The shawl manufac- turer, therefore, who wishes his goods to stand any particular breadth when finished, will not be far from the truth, by always taking the number of dents immediately above that intended to be made. If it is wished to make a shawl in a 1400 reed, 54 inches wide, take the number of dents that a 1500 requires for the same breadth in the reed, and so on for any other reed or breadth. Only with this reservation, that in damask shawls, where the weft is put in dry, or any other of a similar kind, SO dents of allowance, in place of 100 will be suflScient, being a deduction of one-fifth part from what is given by the above rule. lirtinij'h' ,V.'7 ^ ' Tip lip y"l . K.v/i)iij X'' '! . FiirniliiiY sliii'i ' M(>iiiiliii i l'^ thnls ,'/■ AWM's /hrlJir ihnihli' I'lpni/il /[//iwt'.A . 1 ? .3 . * A 4^ 5 <*• In tfif Lwrnplf J'!^.1i/im-f.\1.2.:i.4.'>.fi, mliiui/f m/uI/trrt'ff/'/i/s /frrumii/hf p/jU/'r/Js./W/f that iii/iiirJ A ,1 jioitif juiittTii . Ifhm a tImihL' t'rptmf puttfrii js nhnic in ffw rniJ/lh' /if't/l/' Wi'hJus III tliisf.nunpl/'.j if is ,yil/fj ,i />,jsf,/r,i nr i/I^z/iimi/ih' ,/,'.si,/ii . JJI h,ist,ir,/ ,/,',„is /III' //.v/v/ fhrrnvtri/i/i .v/U/is. 'Jll/r ■iph' jV^3. J/cVidfcfi-r/itcf Mc/u/ifltw wUh nilier rme or iuo Jacohimfs D Menkes for uorkina the &rm/Ti(f Si.v Ri'/ipatM Oilroy^' lie-xtp j\o.3. UVffi fur JataiKirtis. 1-' T)i>,/i/. :2'l Boelr. }} « 1 > t ' t M 1 , ///; <\> m \\\IM * • - 1 \ . \ i 'i ' i ' ■ !' Mil III . 1 ' 1 • , . ' 1. . ■ . .1 • 1 ' I ■ * i 1 . . \ . . '^ L ^ 1 1 I ■ -J 1 i , — I 1 .1 _i . I i i . 'di/TYTi/S • He-ip 'X<^Jf. -EmmjjJe ¥~o Gibrn/'sTie-uj) JV^. F:^a77iple]V^6. \'\ <-s> ^' '6uTtn;'s' tie-up /;'.r/ij ///'//■ .]'!'/. riiisi, /;-/,v'/ /iifihj I f :i Thrv/i/I.s /wDi'ill J Willi /ii'iH J /,• /!.!i/,v/iiim! Mtn'hini: XflEmni'.ss Jit'iinl frr tk&Bod):J:'iJlL'ail]/'.rrhrThe Crmuiul . N".'Mimdles furUw FVj' •'U/yvs'Tir iwy"' Vth-fl Mounting y n,'dy. 2>"i nn,h'. 'Sal'trta ilnnauJ tWthf I'ilt' WiWiWii i'^'"'* \A\\i\\\\ i>; 'Sedc y?l UamAfsSenrd foi^lht Taffeta GroiaulJf^'^Z Samess Board for the 7^. ]'] I'll HI I'll' y'!i> Vflvti Miuinliii^i »'Hli SiiJi/i lirouiiii , i'alLul hv t)ieFrfni'h'ytl<'iirluintlin',i'r.i7andin Vdrfl . /4 Thtvii/Lf f'fr Muil.iiriil I Tlin-tul.y pr-r J)fnJ J Jiimi\t.-Beard ivi-tiwSatiii.2EuwjsBi'tml ArA,- Vi-lvdt .:^ MnU.i r?r riu- Satiii.42ImI.s ri'rffu- u'/itf. oStxidlrs h' .--wk- the Satin /'BujJ/iyh' lirttiitJUf. ilroyi ' Re-up NfS. lir/iiii/'h' Xf'I/'. IWif/ ili'iiiiii/io ll'i.'/i rYfMJrr/ .J,ii;iti,iril Md.-liini-.-- rfh,-.ly :'".■'&',!,■ :-r'B,;h- -l'!'B,;h- laulh-x 'C-Uroy'S' Iv. upN"10 TESTIMONIALS. In order to lay before the public the opinions of some of the most eminent French, English, and other manufacturers, regarding the merits of our patent power looms, we subjoin several Testimonials, which have been received by us on the subject. We have not trans- lated the French documents, preferring to give them exactly as re- ceived from the several parties ; and, besides, it saves room : any person however, who does not understand the language, but who may feel anxious to ascertain what these documents contain, need be at no loss for a translator. The English Testimonials will, per- haps, be sufficient to satisfy most people, without any additional proof. COPIE. Je soussigne P. A. Pihet, constructeur Mecanicien, demeurant a Pans, avenue Parmentier, No. 3, declare que j'ai connu M. C. G. Gihoy tiatif de la Grande Bretagne vers le mois de Decembre 1834, et que j'ai passe contrat avec le dit Sr. C. G. Gilroy pour la construction d'un nouveau metier de son invention et pour lequel des brevets ont ete pris en France par M. Pihet pour cette meme invention, qui consiste en un moyen me- canique par lequel la machine appellee Jacquart marche par un moteur quelconque, etqui permet de supprimer entierement Us moyens a la mam employes jusqu'd ce jour pour obtenir les memes resultats. Le dit Sr. C. G. Gilroy ayant mis a execution le dit metier dans mes ateliers, depuis la date ci-dessus exprimee jusqu'a ce jour a demande et obtenu des patentes ou brevets pour I'Angleterre, I'Ecosse et I'lrlande, ou il desire propager sa decouverte. En consequence, je declare done, dans I'interet de la verite, que le metier de I'invention de M. C. G. Gilroy, et qu'il a construit chez moi, pour faire marcher sans aucun aide le mecanique Jacquart ainsi nomme, a ete etabli sous ious les rapports a man enhere satisfaction^ et qu'il produit des etnffes parfaites, sans etre plus svjet a se deranger qu'un simple metier mecanique pour calicot, et qu'ennn, toutes les etoffes fagonnees el aulres peuvent y etre fabriquees en changeant seulemenl les cartons et sans toucher au mecanisme. Le metier marche a raison de 100 et mfeme 1 15 coups de la navette a la minute, soit pour faire une 6toffe forte ou legere, et d'excellente fabrication. 70 554 Je declare egalement que je considere M. C. G. Gilroy comme un homme tres industrieux et d'une grande perseverance ; qu'il est tres capable de mener a Jin ce qu'il promet au sujet de ses perfectionnemens et inven- tions concernant les metiers a tisser. En foi de quoi je lui ai delivre la presente attestation pour lui servir en tant que de besoin. Fait a Paris le quatre Mars 1838. Approuve I'ecriture Signe — P. Aug. Pihet. Nous soussignes, ajrant vu en pleine activite de travail dans les ateliers de M. Pihet, constructeur mecanicien a Paris, le nouveau metier Jacquart, mecanique de rinvention de M. C. G. Gilroy, metier d'ailleurs mentionne dans Tattestation ci-contre, declarons et attestons que le dit metier marche avec toute la perfection desirable et que, non seulement il donne beaucoup plus en prod u it que les metiers a la main, mais que ces memes produits sont superieurs en regularite et en perfection. Nous declarons en outre qu'une jeune fille pent aisement gouverner trois de ces metiers. Fait a Paris le 5 Mars 1838. Signe. — DiouDONNAT, Constructeur de Mecaniques Jacquart. Vu par Nous, Maire du 8« Arrondissement de Paris pour legalisation de la signature de MM. P. A. Pihet ci-contre et Dioudonnat, apposee d'autre part. Paris, le dix Mars 1838. Le Maire (L. S.) Signe. — Baytet. Je soussigne declare avoir vu fonctionner le metier dont il est ques- tion dans le present certificat, mon opinion est qu'il remplit le but que I'auteur s'est propose, et qu'il doit satisfaire a toutes les exigences du tis- sage en general. Signe. — Henry, Aine. Nous partageons 1' opinion ci-dessus enoncee par Monsieur Henry. Signe — CoucHOT Rey Lebeuf Lehr. Je soussigne declare que le metier a tisser dont il est parle ci-dessus me parait pouvoir parfaitement remplir le but que s'est propose son auteur. Signe. — A. Dhomme. Vu par le Maire du 3« Arrondissement de Paris pour legalisation de la signature de MM. Henry aine, Paris, le 13 D6cembre 1S40. ' Signe. — Decan. (L. S.) 555 Vu par le Maire du 5* Arrondissement de Paris pour legalisation de la signature de M. Dioudonnat. Paris, le 13 Decembre 1840. (L. S.) Signe. Foccard. Je soussigne traducteur assermente, certifie que la copie qui precede est conforme a I'original et que foi doit y etre ajoutiee tant en jugement que hors. Paris, le 13 Decembre 1840. (L. S.) F. Gardera. Vu par le Maire du 3« Arrondissement de Paris pour legalisation de la signature de M. Gardera, traducteur assermente. Paris, le 13 Decembre 1840. Periort Tuousscay. (L. S.) Je soussigne certifie avec plaisir que les metiers a tisser les etoffes faconnee ou unie pour la soierie et le lin que j'ai construit pour M. Charles Cunningham sous la direction de M. C. G Gilroy ont par- faitement rempli le but qu'il s'etait propose. 1° Pour I'enroulement de I'etoffe de maniere a ce que la trame dans le commencement de la piece ne soit pas plus serree qu'a la fin. Par ce moyen I'on met autant de fil de trame qu'on desire par centimetre. 2° Pour que le fil de trame se trouvant tendu et dans une position par- rallele a I'etoffe evite tons les bondages. 3° Pour le raecanisme necessaire a faire marcher la Jacquart qui est tellement doux qu'il permet de donner a ces metiers la vitesse des metiers a calicots. 4o Pour le mouvement necessaire a arreter le marche du metier quand le fil de trame vient a casser ; et enfin j'affirme que tons les fabricants que fai vu venir dans mes atelliers pour visiter ces metiers ont ete d^ accord sur les avantages et la simplicite de ce systeme. En foi de quoi j'ai signe le present pour rendre hommage a la verite. Paris le 21 Decembre 1840. E. Phillippe. Ing. mecanicien rue du Chateau Landon, No. 19, a Paris. J'ai visite a plusieurs reprises, des metiers tres bien montes et parfaite- ment organises, garnir de leur pi^ce, pour travailler avec la mecanique Jacquart. Ces metiers appartiennent a M. Charles Cunningham, et sont construits par M. C. G. Gilroy dans I'etablissement situe No. 19, rue chateau Landon, faubourg St. Martin. Les avantages que j'ai apprecies sont : 1® L' application de le mecanique Jacquart, mu regulierement et agis- 656 sant aussi activement par un moteur, que tel metier a tisser le calicot, la sole, la toile, mu avec la plus grands vitesse. 2° Le mecanisme pour que la duite lancee, passe et se cage sans bou- clage. 3° Le mecanisme qui forme de belles lizieres. 4^* Le mecanisme pour etre certain et assure qui vient a casser, arrete immediatement la navette et la mecanique Jacquart. 5° L' enroulement de 1' etoffe s' executant independamment de sa reduction. 6" Le mode de donner a toute etoffe faconnee, ou unie le degre de reduction a volonte. Paris, le 18 Decembre 1840. Bosqthllon. Fabricant de chales et etoffes nouveaus, No. 13, rue neuA-e St. Eustache, Vu par le INIaire du 3« Arrondissement pour legalisation des signatures de MM. BosQOLLox, Hexry, aine, et Lehr. Paris, ce 24 Decembre 1840. (L. S.) Decan. Pai vu et j'ai examine de pres les metiers mecaniques brevetes, de M. Charles Cunningham construit par M. C. G. Gilroy. Je les trouve parfait tant pour leur montage que pour leur produits. Paris, le 18 Decembre 1840. DiOTJDONNAT. Rue St. Maur, No. 12. J'ai vu marcher les metiers de M. Gilroy ; ils m'ont paru reunir tous les avantages mentionnes ci-dessus. Paris, 20 Decembre 1840. Lehr. 12 faubourg Poissoniere, maison Couchot Rey Lebeuf Lehr, passage des Petites Ecuries No. 12. J'ai vu les metiers ; j'ai examine i'exactitude et I'assuret^ de la mancEUvre, les produits qu'en resultent me paraissent ne rien laisser a desirer. Paris, le 19 D6cembre 1840 Henry, A in 6. Fabricant, 13 rue Poissoniere. Nous soussignfe certifions que nousavons vu fonctionner le metier a tisser mecanique de M. C. G. Gilroy ; nous considerons cette invention comme ingenieuse et pouvant donner d'heureux resultats sur tout pour les 6toffes de soie. H. Debergue & Spreafico. Ingenieurs, 228 Gluai de Jemmappes, Paris. 557 Vu a la Mairie de 5« Arrondissement pour legalisation de la signature Sr. Debergue «fe Spreafico, appos6e a dessus. Paris, le23 Mars, 1841. Le Maire du 5^ Arrondissement de Paris. (L. S.) FOCCARD. Nous, soussign^s, certifions que pendant huit annees, jusqu'a ce jour, nous avons vu et suivi, les diverses inventions et perfectionments que le Sr. Clinton Q. Gilroy a fait dans son mecanisme, pour arriver a une amelioration complete, qu'il a maintenant obtenue, et que nous manufactu-* riers nous avons justement apprecies. Le tems et les. vielles qu'il y a con- sacres, sans enumerer les enormes depenses qu'il a faites ; ont ete couron- nes d'une reussite complete pour ce qui est du mecanisme. lo La machine dite Jacquard, quoique fonctionnant avec rapidite, et marchant a 110, 115, et meme 125 coups de navettes a la minute, n'a aucune secousse dans ses mouvemens, elle a la douceur qu'exige la fabri- cation des tissus de Soirie. 2o L'ingenieuse idee d' arreter le metier au premier fil de trame qui se rompt, ou a chaque caneUe finie, etait indispensable pour la perfection de I'etoffe. 3o La maniere d'enrouler I'etofFe donne la facilite de donner, autant qu on le desire, de coups de navettes par centimetre ; c'est a dire la re- duction voulue pour tel genre d'etoffe, laquelle que ce soit, et avec une regularite exacte, depuis le commencement de la chaine jusqu'a sa fin. 4o II restait encore un obstacle, a vaincre, le Sr. Gilroy a parfaitement su le surmonter : C'etait d'eviter le rebouclage de la trame, fait sur le lis- iere, produit par le diagonal que fait le fil de trame par le mouvement du battant. II fallait pour eviter cela, un moyen sur ; il a reussit parfaitement, et on peut dire que son idee est aussi simple qu'ingenieuse. 5° II fallait empecher les cartons de s'echapper du cilindre, ce cas ar- rivant quelquesfois par la vitesse de la marche du metier, et faisait faire des defauts a I'etoffe, et occasionnait la perte d'un dessin [les carious) forte couteux. Ce desagreraent est parfaitement evite. 6° Pour faire executer un grand dessin, on ne pouvait le faire sans le concours des lisses devant le corps, ce qui devenait dispendieux par le grand entretient qu I'exige une remise, et augmentait en complication le montage des metiers. Par son precede, il est parvenu a faire executer les dessins de la plus grande dimension, sans I'emploi des lisses, ce qui en simplifiant le metier devient un grand avantage pour I'ouvrier. 7° II fait marcher tour a tour, par son mecanisme, plusieurs navettes pour les dessins a plusieurs couleurs, etc. 668 Nous nous resumons en disant que le metier a tisser-mecanique, a la Jac- quard, de I'invenrion du Sr. Clinton G. Giiroy, est celui qui offre le plus de perfection pour la fabrication de les differentes 6toffes de sole et autres dans les articles les plus delicats par leur execution, et qu'il a fabri- que a Paris en sont la preuve. William Webb, 26 Wood St., Spitalfields, London. H. Saxford &. Varrel. Avenue Tradaine No. 1, 2e Arron- dissement E. Fontaine. 87 rue Hauteville, Paris. Lehk. 12 faubourg, Poissonniere. Henry, Aine. 13 rue Poisonniere. Boucher. 6 rue des fosses montmartre, Paris. Antjelle. 5 rue Hauteville, Paris. C. Depuille. No 22 rue neuve St. Augustin. A. SouLAS. 5 rue Hauteville, Paris. DiouDONNAT. 12 rue St. Maur. Raffard. 372 rue St. Denis. BosQuiLLON. No. 1 3 rue neuve St. Eustache. E. Phillippe. Ing. mecanicien, rue Chateau Landon, No. 19. Ayant construit les metiers relates ci-dessus. Eugene Vasserot. Ing. mecanicien, 19 rue Chateau Landon. Cerisiaux &- Co. Ing. mecanicien. Robert Mjddleton. Engineer, rue Rochechouart, Paris. Placdde Caille. 94 rue St. Maur, Popincourt. E. N. Robert. William Sudds. Rouen, J. Frood. Ingenieur. Vu par nous, Maire du 6* Arrondissement de Paris, pour legalisation de la Signature du Sr. Raftaed, appos6e au has du present. Paris, 24 Mars 1841. (L. S.) Ch. Gront)ar. Vu pour la attestation des signatures Phillippe et Vasserot. Paris, le 23 Mars 1841. Le Commissaire de Police du Q,uartier du faubourg St. Denis. (L. S.) Baifitte Gregeart. Vu par le Maire du 3' Arrondissement pour legalisation des signatures de MM. Henry, Lehr, Bosquillon, Andelle & Soulas et Fontaine. Paris, ce 20 Mars 1841. (L. S.) Decan. 559 Vu pour attestation de la signature de MM. Sanford &, Varrall, ap- posee ci-dessus. Paris, le 22 Mars 1841. Le commissaire de Police, Gluartier faubourg Montmartre. (L. S.) Atoxir. Vu a la Mairie du 8« Arrondissement de Paris legalisation de la signa- ture de M. DiouDONNAT, trainee au milieu de cette fueille. Le 24 Mars 1841. (L. S.) Le Maiue. E. Gue. Je soussigne certifie avoir vu fonctionner la machine de M. Gilroy a maniere a ne laisser rien a d^sirer comme success. A. H. Neville. Ing^nieur, 19 Passage Saulnier. JTai vu marcher le m6tier m^canique Jacquart de M. Gilroy, et en ai et6 fort satisfait sous tous les rapports. Essonne (Seine-et-Oise.) E. Feray. Vu a la mairie d'Essonne pour legalisation de la signature de E. Ferat appos6e au has du present. Essonne, le 25 Mars 1841. (L. S.) Je soussigne m'empresse de reconnaitre que le Sr. Gilroy a certainement obtenu les resultats les plus parfaits que I'art mecanique puisse jusqu'a ce jour apporter au tissage. Feldc. Cordir. 42 rue Chabrol. J'ai vu fonctionner le metier de M. Gilroy, et il m'a para exempt de reproches. C. Desports. 48 rue Hauteville. Vu pour legalisation des signatures de MM. Cordir et Desports sus appos6es. Paris, le 22 Mars 1841. Le Commissaire de police du Gluartier du faubourg Poissonniere. (L. S.) P. Arlam. 560 Je declare avoir vu fonctionner le metier en question. Le but que se proposait son auteur me parait parfaitement reussir. La substitution des eccentriques aux courbes a cosur evite les chocs, la differences des rayons donne en ouvrant les chaines le temps a, la navette de passer un m^canisme ingenieux, tend le fil engag6 d'approcher de I'ouvrage, et depense le bat- tent de faire autant de chemin que I'ordinaire, de 1' ensemble de les disposi- tions il en resulte un tissage rapid et exempt de defauts ; j'atteste avec plaisir ce dont j'ai ete temoins. M. Le Baron Seguier. Vu par nous, Maire du 11^ Arrondissement de Paris, pour legalisation de la signature de M. le Baron Seguier, apposee au bas de la presente at- testation. Fait a Paris, le 23 Mars 1841. (L. S.) YAJLhANT. A. M. le redacteur en chef dv, Commerce. Paris, 24 avril 1841. Monsieur, Ayant lu dernierement, dans un numero supplementaire de votre jour- nal, sous la date du 3 i mars dernier, un article relatif a un nouveau me- tier Jacquard, marchant a la vapeur, j'ai ete fort surpris, et tout autre fabri- cant I'eut ete a ma place, d'y trouver la description d'une pretendue de- couverte de MM. Maknazet aine, Deplanque fils et compagnie pour la- quelle il est dit que ces messieurs viennent de prendre un brevet qui porte la date du 4 avril 1840. II est dit dans cet article qu'anterieurement a cette decouverte " les Anglais avaient bien applique la vapeux aux metiers a tisser les etoffes unies, mais on n'avait pu encore parvenir a I'appliquer aux metiers a tisser les etoffes damassees a dessin ; ce probleme difficile et important vient d'etre resolu par MM. Malmazet aine, Deplanque fils et Ce du Lille (Nord.)" Tout fabricant eclaire en France, en Angleterre, ou dans tout autre pays saura reconnaitre 1' inexactitude de ce qui precede et cela pour raisons suivantes : 1° MM. Malmazet aine, Deplanque fils et C^ paraissent ignorer en- iieiexneni q}iQ diz brevets ont ete pris en France depuis 1834, pour la fabrication des etoffes croisees, satin et faconnees, par les metiers Jacquard, marchant par la vapeur, lesquelles metiers marchent admirablement bien. Deux de ces brevets ont ete pris au nom de MM. Pihet et C*, avenue Parmentier, 3, a Paris. Les huit autres ont ete pris au nom de M. Charles Cunningham, et I'invention est de M. C. G. Gilroy, ingenieur et fabricant. Le brevet de MM. Malmazet aine, Deplanque fils et C^ est compris dans ceux de M. C. G. Gilroy. Le moyen surtout employ^ par ces messieurs pour faire marcher le metier n'est qu'un imitation de celui de M. Pihet et de M. Cun- ningham. Q,uant a ce qui a rapport aux autres parties de la construction 561 du metier, il n'y a rien de neuf en aucune maniere ; et tous les fabricans sont prevenu par le present article que toute contrefaqon de I'invention du sieur Gilroy sera poursuivie selon la loi. 2° Ce sont les metiers de I'invention de M. Gilroy, qui, les premiers, en Angleterre et en France., ont fait marcher les metiers Jacquard par la vapeur, pour cette fabrication. M. Gilroy a forme une societe a Londres pour exploiter cette invention, avec un capital de 30,000 liv. St., et il a paye a MM. Poole et Carpmael, du bureau des brevets, a Old-Square, Lincoln's Inn, a Londres, depuis 1834, la somme de 1,500 liv. st. 3° M. Gilroy, qui a fait la decouverte de toute ces inventions ingenieuses et utiles a employe huit annees d'un travail assidu et depense plus de liv. 6,000 pour arriver a ce but desirable, et aucun frais, aucun sacrifice n'ont 6te epargnes pour obtenir ce resultat. Les specifications attesteront I'im- mense importance des resultats que doivent obtenir les fabricans par I'em- ploi de ces inventions. 4" La moindre vitesse des admirable metiers Jacquard par la vapeur ; de I'invention de M. Gilroy, n'est pas au dessous de 108 coups de navette par minute, et la vitesse ordinaire est de 115 coups, et sur les etofFes de gros de Naples faqonn^es de 18^ jusqu'a 25 pouces ; ils ont marche avec une rapidite de 125 a 137 coups de navette par minute, sans aucun de- rangement dans la machine Jacquard. Les fabricans et les ingenieurs dont les noms suivent attesteront la verite de ce qui a ete dit a I'egard des metiers de M. C. G. Gilroy : MM. E. Feray, fabricant de damassees, filature de lin et construction de machines a Essonne (Seine-et-Oise) ; Le Gentil, depute du 3« arrondisse- ment, rue Poissoniere ; Henry aine, fabricant, juge au tribunal de com- merce ; Bosquillon, fabricant, arbitre pres le tribunal de commerce ; Ch. Dupuille, fabricant de sole, rue St-Augustin, 22 ; Desports, directeur de la societe anonyme pour les filatures de lin, tissage, etc., Paris and Amiens ; Lehr, fabricant et banquier de la maison de Couchet, Rey, Le BoBuf, et Lehr, passage des Petites Ecuries, a Paris ; Dioudonnat, fabricant de machines Jacquart, rue St-Maur, 12; le baron Seguier, membre du comite de la Societe d'encouragement pour I'industrie nationale ; MM. les ingenieurs-mecaniciens, Henry Debergue et Spreafico, quai Jemmappes, 228, a Paris ; Sanford & Varrel, rue Rochechouart, a Paris ; E. Phillippe, rue Chateau-Landon (Faub.-St-Martin,) Paris. Fabricans en Angleterre et en Irlande: MM. L. et E. Wilson, neveux du dernier lord-maire de Londres, 124 Wood Street, Cheapside ; W. H. Wood, ingenieur et constructeur de ma- chines a vapeur, etc. Renelagh Road, Thames Bank, London ; Michel Andrews, fabricant royal du linge damasse a Ardoyne, Belfast, Irlande ; M. Coulson, fabricant royal a Lisburn, Irlande; W. Webb, chez MM. Jacquier et C^, a Spitalfields, a Londres ; et John Dove, 4 Mape Street, Bethnal Green, Spitalfields. 71 562 Tous ces messieurs ont vu fonctionner les metiers de rinvenlion de M. C. G. Cilroy, et ils ont donne a 1' excellence de ces metiers leur entiere approbation. W. W. I have seen the looms at work in London and in Paris and have great pleasure in giving evidence to their excellence. Henry Wood. 19 April, 1841. We have seen Mr. Gilroy's machines working both silk and linen ; and workmen of ours have superintended them here and in France, and we can speak of the inventions and the manner in which they work in the most favourable terms. L. &, E. Wilson. Merchants and Silk Manufacturers, 124 Wood St. Cheapside, London, March 11th, 1841. From what I have seen of Mr. Gilroys former inventions in machinery for weaving figured goods by power, I have every confidence that the pres- ent one, (alluding to Poole's patent of May 12th. 1839,) will in all respects meet the wants of manufacturers of silk and woollen textures, such as gros de Naples, vesting stuffs, &c. Michael Andrews. Damask Manufacturer, Ardoyne, Belfast. January 10th, 1841. Messrs. Editors : A patent was obtained about a year since by Mr. C. G. Gilroy, now of New York, for improvements in the power loom for weaving figured goods of various kinds, either of silk, wool, linen or cotton, which looms are now in successful operation. The writer has seen specimens of the work executed upon them from each of these materials, some of them in a style which the manufacturers of Lyons would not be ashamed to own, and of a texture differing from every previous manufacture. Mr. Gilroy has spent a number of years in France, England, Belgium, and Prussia, in which countries he has obtained upwards of thirty patents for various improvements in the manufacture of textile substances ; and he has in his possession the highest testimonials from the first manufacturers of France, and from others eminent in judgment and station, showing the estimation in which his improvements are held in that land of art and taste. Mr. G. has recently deposited in the Patent Office another model, exhibiting vari- ous new improvements in the loom, and which is intended for the weav- ing of table-cloths, shawls, piano-forte-covers, window curtains, and other 563 articles of a similar character. By the action of this loom the business of weaving will be much facilitated, as by its means he will be enabled to work at the rate of from eighty to a hundred and thirty picks per minute, and to produce perfect goods in patterns of great complexity. Thomas P. Jones. Daily National Intelligencer, Washington, D. C, April 6, 1843. Patent Office, March 10, 1842 Sir:— A very numerous collection of specimens of your silk weaving have been received for exhibition in the " National Gallery of Manufactures and Agriculture," also a sample of carpet weaving. Their extreme rich- ness and brilliancy, entitle them to great praise, and will afford me much gratification in the display. Respectfully Yours, H. L. Ellsworth, Commissioner of Patents, Washington. Mr. C. G. Gilroy, New York. Wool Mosaic Cloth. — A new invention has recently been introduced into London from Berlin, and, as we learn, is soon to be introduced into our American cities, in which the brilliancy and variety of colours of Berlin wool are blended together in devices of surpassing elegance and richness. The manufacture has all the appearance of painted velvet) with the texture and lasting qualities of a woven fabric. In the process of manufacture the figures, with their various hues, are woven in a thick pile several inches long, and the fabric is then divided into laminte and fixed on to flexible India rubber ground work, each slice of the pile pro- ducing a separate picture in wool. Some of the groups of flowers pro- duced by this process are exquisitely beautiful, and are admirably adapted for the decoration of palatial drawing-rooms. The attempts to copy paintings and to take likenesses are comparative failures, but for orna- mental designs the mosaic cloth is almost unrivalled in beauty. — [Boston Transcript. This invention is described at page 249, to which the reader is re- ferred. D. H. HILL LIBRARY North Carolina St^t^ Collega INDEX. PAGE. Abyssiniei, discovery of looms and spinning machinery in, by Dr. Lepsius, Mr. Fellows, and others. 3 Ahohab and Bezaleel, specimen of lace made by, 44 Alarm loon, 34 Alexis Kersivenus, letters, from, on Arphaxad's inventions, . . 34-65 " " " " " ancient lace manufactures, . . 296 Angora or Cashmere goats, origin and progress of the new race of, . 270 Arachne, suicide of, 39 Arphaxad, pension granted to, 33 Arphaxad's loom, dangers of weaving with, 35-65 Arphaxad, tribute to the memory of, 64 Arphaxad's vertical air loom, 20-34-65 Arts and manufactures, evidence on, before the House of Commons, . 485 Arts and manufactures, estabhshment in Russia for the improvement of, • 424-499 Arts and manufactures in India, state of, 9-59 Arybas, Lemuel P., of Sidon, inventor of the nipper or jaw-temple, 32-410 Babylonian carpets and shawls, 49 " pen-knife, 5 Barrel or cylinder loom, 182 " " " Gilroy's improvements on the, .... 191 " organ, strange application of the, 27 Basharaboo's account of Joseph's coat, 58 Battle-field scene, pattern of, 40 Beaming, 73 Berry's metallic tissue loom, 449 Bigelow's Marseilles quilt power loom, 446-479 Bobbin winding machines, 90 Bottomley and Gilroy's power loom, . 352 Bowman's power loom, 401 Brains, preservation of, 439-446 Bronze power loom, vertical, 5 Brussels carpet, 50-213-431 Buchanan, Alex., inventor of chenille, compliment to, . . . .259 Burr's power loom, 361 Burt and Boyds' power loom, 402 Calderhead's loom, 203 Card-cutting plates, 209 INDEX 565 PAOK. Card-cutting or punching machine, 512 Carpeting, 210 Carpet, Ingrain, 213-430 " three-ply, 211 Carpets, Egyptian, 50 " rugs, &c., Templeton and Quiglay's improvements in, . . 261 Carpets, rugs, &c., Henshall's improvements in, 239 Carpets, rugs, &c., manufacture of, by cementing a nap or pile on plain cloth, 249-563 Carpets, rugs, &c., Whytock's improvements in, 215 " and velvets, cutting the pile of, 214 Cashmere or Angora goats, origin and progress of the new race of, . 270 Cashmere shawls, 268 " wool, mills for spinning, • 272 Cast-iron, coating of, 422 Checker or damboard, 112 Checks, 94 Chenille, 259 Claims, Arphaxad's, 28 to 33 « Bigelow's, 446-479 " Gilroy's, read the work, Clarke's power loom, 395 Cleopatra, the alluring arts of, 47 Cloth roller, 84 Coach-lace, 148 Colouring, harmonious, 176 " velvet pile carpet, Whytock's method of, .... 232 Comb draw loom, 180 Cordings, daughts, and 102 Counterpoise harness, 161 Craig and Cochran's rotary temple, 413 Crofts' lace machinery, 278 Crossing the shuttle, 90 Cross warps, weaving of, 124 Cross work or Egyptian net, 45-296 Cylinder or barrel loom, 28-182 Damask, the manufacture of, 424 « tweels, 108-427 Damboard or checker, 112 Decorations of Solomon's Temple, specimens of the, . . • 5-42-44 Design and colouring, 168-485 « paper, 178-507 " " calculation table of, Gilroys, 510 " " specimens of, 511 Designing patterns, 179-478-488-491 Detached shuttle-boxes, 394 Diagonal quilt, H^ Diamond quilt, 120 566 INDEX. PAGE. Diaper, domic, and, 112 Dimity cord, 112 " power loom, discovery of a, 5 Discover}- of looms and spianingmachinery in Abyssinia, by Dr. Lepsius, Mr. Fellows, and others, 3 Dohmme and Romagney's Jacquard, 463 Dornic and diaper, • 112 Double cloth harness, 121 •■' •' tweeling of, 117 " « wea\-ing of, 30-116 Downing's power loom, 372 Drawing or entering the web. 74 " ornamental, instructions in, 172-495 Draw loom, description of. 143 " " mounting of the. . . 147 Draughts and cordings, 102 Dropped nets, 142 Egj'ptian carpeting on the Brussels principle, 50 '• lace or net-work, 297 " net or cross-work, 45 " shebetz, 46 '•' tapestry. 40-55 Electrical machine, ancient, discovery of, 299 Embalming. 439-446 Embroidered-work, 42 Embroidering in China, 302 '•' •• Senegal by negresses, 304 « '■ Turkey, 304 " machine, Hielmann's, 306 « " '•' index to 326 Embroidery, 299 Entering, drawing or. the web, 74 Embalming a Genius, 439-446 Factory girl, song to the, 345 Fairman's power loom, 374 Fancy wea%'ing. 3S6 Figured weaving, 143 '• '• by power, 423 Figuring machinery, ancient, on the Jacquard principle, . . .43 Five leaf tweel stripe, broken and reversed. Ill " '•' " •• regular " " 110 Fletcher's vertical power loom, with detached shuttle-boxes, . 394-480 Fork and grid stop-thread motion. Gilroy and Bullough's, . . . 416 " " " " " known to the ancients, ... 5 Four leaf tweel, double cloth, 121 French weavers, taste of, 175-500 Full-harness power loom, Gilroy's, 454 INDEX. 567 PAOB. Gauze, 125 " mounting 125 Ghelen's loom, improvement on, 24 " " infringement on, 266 " " vertical mat, 18 Ghelen, tribute to the memory of 20 Gibson's evidence on arts and manufactures before the House of Commons, 494 Gilroy and Bottomley's power loom, 352 Gilroy's full-harness power loom, 454 " improvements on Howard and Scattergood's loom, . . . 350 " loom mountings or tie-ups, Exeimples 1 to 10, . . . . 552 " muslin power loom, 395 " patents, infringements on, 483 " presser-harness power loom, 468 " varnish for headles, 409 Glass weaving, 453 Gold, cloth of, 43 Goos' Jacquard, 467 Greece, manufactures of, . 56 Gros de Naples, 404 Guillotte's evidence on arts and manufactures before the House of Com- mons, 485 Harmonious colouring, 176 Harness, counterpoise, 161 « double cloth, 121 " draw loom, 144 " full, Gilroy's power loom, 454 " presser, Gilroy's power loom, 468 " two-thread or split, 509 Headle-making machine, 407 Headles, 80 " improved, 408 " varnishes for, Montgomery and Gilroy's, .... 409 Heathcoate's lace machinery, 291 Helen, skill of, in weaving, 54 Hendrick's power loom, 368 Henshall's improvements in the manufacture of carpets, rugs, dec, . 239 Hielmann, letter from, 307 Hielmann's embroidering machine, 306 « « « index to, 326 Hornby and Kennyworthy's sizing machine, 341 Hose pipes, invention of, by Ichao-he-he-hi-ho Ouang, . . . . 117 Howard and Scattergood's power loom, 348 Howell's evidence on arts and manufactures before the House of Com- mons, 494 Ichao-he-he-hi-ho Ouang, inventor of hose pipes, 117 Index to Hielmann's embroidering machine, 326 568 INDEX. PACB. India, state of arts and manufactures in, 9-59 Ingrain carpet, 213-431 Introduction, 1 Jacquard, Dhomme and Romagney's 463 " Goos', 467 " J. M., tribute of respect to, 208 " machine, 43-192 Jaw-temple, 32^10 Jones and Mellowdew's power loom, 401 Josepli's coat, 58 Junction of two unequal fabrics, 118 Kersivenus, Alexis, of Alexandria, letters from, on Arphaxad'sinventions.34-65 Kersivenus, Alexis, of Alexandria, letter from, on specimen of eincient lace. 296 Kidnapping of tapestry weavers 52 Lace, Alexis Kersivenus' specimens of ancient, .... 46-297 " manufacture of, 14S-275 " the Pope's specimen of ancient, 5-44 Lashing or reading patterns, 157-514 Lay and reed, 84 " jerking the, out of the loom, 24 Lepsius' discoveries in Egypt, 3 Letters patent, reflections on. 37-330-371-385 Loom, Arphaxad's vertical air, 20-34-65 " Berry's metalhc tissue, 449 " Calderhead's, 203 " comb draw, 180 " cylinder or barrel, 192 " dimity power, 5 " draw, description of, 143 " " mounting the, 99 " Ghelen's 18 ' Gilroy's, mountings or tie-ups, examples 1 to 10, , . . 552 Looms, discoveries of, in Egypt, by Dr. Lepsius. Mr. Fellows, and others, 3 " for tweeling, mounting of, 99 Loom, power, Bigelow's, Marseilles quilt, 446 " " Bowman's 401 " " Bronze vertical, 5 « « Burr's, 361 « « Burt and Boyds', 402 " " Clarke's, 395 " " Downing's, 372 " " extraordinary speed of, 464 " " Fairman's, 374 « " Fletcher's vertical, with detached Bhuttle-boxes, . 394-480 " " Gilroy and Bottomley's, 352 " " Gilroy's full-harness, ....... 454 « " " muslin, 395 INDEX. 569 PAOB. Loom, power, Gilroy's presser-harness, 463 " " Hendrick's, 369 " " Howard and Scattergood's, 348 " '' " " " Gilroy's improvements on, . 350 " " Jones and Mellowdew's, 401 " " Mellowdew's, 334 " " Potter's (John), 401 « « " (W. A.), 364 " " Ramsbottom and Holl's 395 " " Roberts', 401 " " Shallcross', 381 " " Sharp, Roberts & Co.'s, 346 « " Stillman's, 3(79 " " Stone's 356 " " Tompkins and Gilroy's, 43 1 « « Welch's, 382 " " Yates and Gilroy's Marseilles quilt 438 Looms, power, reports of French, and other manufacturers on Gilroy's, 553 Machinery, ancient figuring, on the Jacquard principle, . . .43 Machinery, discoveries of, in Abyssinia, by Dr. Lepsius and others, . 3 Machinery, packing of, 421 Manufactures, introduction of, into Russia, 424-499 Mantle of Shinar, 49 Manufactures and arts, evidence on before tlie House of Commons, . 485 Manufactures, of Sonar-ga, and Vicknum-pooru, 11 Manufactures of Behar and Patna. 59 " of Europe, see evidence on, 485 " of Greece, 56 " of Palestine, 37 Marseilles quilt power loom, Bigelow's, 446 " " " " Yates and Gilroy's, 438 Mellowdew's power loom, 384 Metallic tissue loom. Berry's, 449 Mosaic Cloth, . . ... % 249-563 Nap or pile, cementing of a. on plain cloth, 249 Net Egyptian, or cross- work, 45 " mail, 136 " patent or night-thought, 138 " princess royal, 140 " spider, 136 " whip, 131 Nets, Vulcan's, 44 Net-work or lace, Egyptian, 297 Nodville, spinning in, 15 " weaving in, 15 O'Flanagan and Kelly's Jacquard, 468 570 INDEX, PAOE. O' Farrell, Brien Dhu, Poetry of, 2-24-345 Oration, Arphaxad's, 20 Ornamental drawing, instructions in, 172-495 Packing of macliinery, . 421 Palestine, manufactures of, 37 Patent net or night-thought, 138 Patents, Bigelow's, 446-479 Palna and Behar, manufactures of, 59 Patterns, curious mode of producing, 26 " designing, 179-478-488-491 Pen-knife, Babylonian, ancient, . . 5 Persian carpets and shawls, , . . ... ... 49 " shuttle-boxes, 394 Plain and tweeled textures, 387 " or tabby-backed velvet, 122 " weaving, . 69 " " by power, 345 Pile, cutting the, of carpets and velvets, 214 Plush velvet, 123 Pope Alexander VI., his account of the origin of weaving in ancient times, by Ghelen, 12 Pope Boniface's ornamental shirt, 196 Pope's, the, specimen of lace, 5 Potter's (John) power loom, 401 " " improvements in sizing, ■ . . 338 " (W. A.) power loom, 364 Power loom. See loom, power, Preservation of iron from rust, . . . , . . . . 422 Presser-harness power loom, Gilroy's, . . . , . . . 468 Princess royal net, 140 Punching or cutting machine, 512 Q,uill and shuttle, 84 Q,uilt, diagonal, 119 " diamond, 120 " Marseilles, Bigelow's power loom for weaving, . . . 446-479 " " Yates and Gilroy's power loom for weaving, . . 438 " waved, 120 Ramsbottom and Holl's power loom, 395 Reading or lashing patterns, . 157-514 Reed and lay, 82 Reed-scale, . 511 Reflections on letters patent, 37-330-371-385 Reports of French, and other manufacturers on Gilroy's power looms, , 553 Roberts' power loom, 401 Rods, 79 Rotary temple, Craig and Cochran's, 413 INDEX. 571 PAGE. 4.12 Rotary temple, Drapers, *^'=' Rugs, carpets, &c., Henshall's improvements in, . . • • .239 « ii " manxifacture of, by cementing a nap or pile on plain cloth 249-563 Rust, preservation of iron from, • c, *• .... 406 Satin, " Kiang-Nau, mode of weaving, 30 « tweel, ^°^ Saw-dusting, explanation of, '^'^" Self-knowledge, necessity of, ^2^ Seven leaf tvveels, Shallcross's power loom, ^°^ Sharp, Roberts & Co.'s power loom, ^^° Shawls, Persian, Shebetz, Egyptian, ^ Shinar, mantle of, Shining taffeta, ^Z Shirt, Pope Boniface's ornamental, ^^6 84 Shuttle and quill, " curious contrivance in the, Shuttles, odd method of working, « self-changmg, magic, . '^'^ ^'^ Silk manufacture in China, " textures, weaving of, * "" 123 Simple jean velvet cord, Six leaf tweels, Sizing, « by power, improvements in, • • ^"^^ a u « Hornby and Kennyworthy's improvements in, . . 341 Skene's evidence on arts and manufactures before the House of Com- . 49d monS, 1RQ90Q4.ST Sketching, and drawing of Paterns, . ... lbS-^^y-*»o Solomon's political sagacity, Solomon's temple, decorations of, Spider and mail nets, Spider net, _ Spinning in Nodville, n \ o machinery, discoveries of, in Egypt, by Dr. Lepsius, and others, J " machine, with 256 spindles, Split or two-thread harness, principle of, Spooling or winding, ^^^ " warping and sizing, by power, Stillman's power loom, Stone's power loom, 5-416 Stop-thread motion, fork and grid, Striking up the weft, 672 INDEX. PACE. Striped webs, warping of, ... . .... 95 Stripes, 94 Suicide of Arachne, 39 Syracusan ladies, unbridled tongues of 55 Tabby-backed or plain velvet, 122 Taffeta, shining, 404 Taffetas, 404 Tapestry, 263 " Gobelins, frame for weaving, description of, . . . . 266 " splendid, Theocritus' description, 55 " weavers, kidnapping of, 52 " " peculiar sensibility of, 267 Tappet-wheel, invention ofj 29 Teague Ghelen, the harpist, 18 Temple, jaw or nipper. . . , 410 " rotary, Craig and Cochran's, 413 " " Draper's, 412 Temples, 83-410 " jaw or nipper, used wholesale, 24 Templeton and Q,uiglay's improvements in carpets, rugs, &c., . . 261 Thick eilk cloth, 405 Three-ply carpet, 211 Tie-ups or loom mountings, Gilroy's, examples 1 to 10, . . . 552 Tompkins and Gilroy's power loom, 430 Traveller, scientific, 7 Treading, 88 Treadles, arrangement of, 103 Tribute to Arphaxad's memory, . . . . . . . .64 " " Ghelen's memory, 20 Tweel, four leaf, double cloth, 121 « three « « « 121 Tweeled and plain textures, 387 " stripes, 109 " " five leaf regular and reversed, 110 " " " " broken and reversed, Ill Tweeling, 96 " mounting of looms for, 99 " turned or reversed, .111 " of double cloth, 117 Tweels, damask, 108-427 " satin, 109 " seven leaf, 107 " six leaf, 107 Two-thread or split harness, principle of the, 509 Turkey carpet, 215 Tyrian manufactures, 53 Unequal fabrics, junction of two, . . 118 INDEX. 573 PAGK. Varnishes for headles, Montgomery and GUroy's 409 Velvet, plain or tabby-backed, 122 " Pl^^^h, i23 « cord, simple jean, -^"^ « pile carpet, Whytock's, 215 u a « « method of colouring, .... 232 Velvets, If « cutting the pile of, '*-^* " expeditious mode of manufacturing, 214 Vertical air loom, Arphaxad's, 20-34-65 " power loom, bronze, (t