>■ NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES llll lllllllllllllll This book is due on the date indicated unless recalled by the Libraries. Books not returned on time are subject to replacement charges. Borrowers may access their library accounts at: http://www.lib.ncsu.edu/ads/borrow.html THE COUNTRY DYER, AND Farmer's Companion. •kick "kick "kick "kit BY MORSE AND LATHROP *********** Printed for the Authors ######## 1808. 1 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/countrydyerfarmeOOmors Introduction In such an extensive country as America, especially the Northern and Western states, which abound in Sheep, the art of dying Wool, Cotton, and Linen, especially Wool, is of great importance, when the art is suitable cultivated. We should, not only by industry, satisfy our curiosity respecting the materials, but prevent an extensive and needless importation, and consequently retain our money in our own county. The art of dying is an useful branch of business; its influence on the sale of all stuffs used for furniture or apparel, has been felt by almost all Europe, who have been enriched by it, especially England. But few people in America, estimate the value of manufactured Woolens of their own country. Till of late, we have too generally resorted for our cloths to the manufactories of Europe. With regard to our own manufacture of cloths, women and children commonly dictate the colors to be impressed upon them; but they frequently make an injudicious choice; and the garments are thrown aside, or given to Tom, Jack, or Harry, the garden boys, and poor little Joseph must have a new one. True colors, impressed on goods, retain their complexion; false ones, on being exposed to the sun and air, loose all their color, and consequently the goods are so much injured as to render then unsaleable, (sic). A circumstantial detail of experiments, with their various results, is in this small volume presented to the country dyers. In the following work, we have endeavored to be plain and intelligible to all, who can clean the copper 1 or turn the reel; not only those who profess the art, but private families may embrace the advantages of the following instructions, and color their own clothing, which will be particularly advantageous to them at this time, if the Embargo continues 2 . We have also introduced into this work, a great number of Paints, Stains for Wood, of all colors, of the best kind. Everything in this volume is intended for the use of the Farmer and Mechanic. This publication, presented to the Country Dyers, Farmers and mechanics, is the result of long practice, close study, fair trails, and unwearied pains and expence, (sic). 1 The third definition of "copper" noted as chiefly British is "a large boiler or pot of copper or iron." 2 (This book has a printing date of 1 808 on the cover page.) On October 25, 1 807, President Jefferson sent a message to Congress recommending an embargo act -"an inhibition of the departure of our vessels from the ports of the United States." The Senate lay an embargo on all shipping, foreign and domestic, in the ports of the United States, with specified exceptions and ordered all vessels abroad to return home forthwith. Unlimited in its duration and universal in its application, the embargo was an experiment never before tried by any nation - an attempt to compel two belligerent powers (Great Britain and France), to respect the rights of neutrals by withholding intercourse with all the world. It was repealed on March 1, 1809, but a law was passed forbidding all commercial intercourse with France and England until the Orders in Council and the decrees should be repealed in France and England. It was not until after the war of 1 81 2, Jan 19, 1814 that the President recommended the appeal of the Embargo Act and it was done by Congress on April 14, 1814. (Taken from Harper's History of the United States , 1912, Vol III, article on Embargo Acts.) The Authors flatter themselves, that they shall avoid the imputation of vanity, while they entertain a confidence, that the following instruction will be of public utility, and of service to many in the art of dying. COUNTRY DYER, & C. Recipe for the Blue Dye, or Indigo Vat The size of your vat should be in proportion to the business in which you would employ it. In order to set or raise a new dye, put one pound and a half of Indigo 3 into an iron kettle, which will contain two or three gallons; then fill your kettle with river, or pond water; then take a pestle and beat the Indigo so small that a cannon ball 4 will run upon it. Add a pint of urine to the Indigo thus prepared for grinding; then place the kettle on your 3 Indigo is a deep blue dye used to color cotton and wool. The dye was taken from the indigo plant, a member of the pea family that grows chiefly in India. Considerable quantities of indigo began to be produced in South Carolina in the 1740's and in Georgia in the 1 750's. This industry disappeared after the Civil War. Indigo is a vat color, so called because it does not dissolve in water. Indigo paste must be treated with an alkaline reducing agent before it can be used as a dye. The chemical reaction turns the paste yellow and makes a substance that will dissolve in water. After a cotton or woolen fabric has been dyed, it is removed from the vat and exposed to air to oxidize it a deep blue which is resistant to removal by water. [The World Book Encyclopedia, 1973, book "I", p 167.] 4 It is interesting to note the use of a cannon ball in the crushing of the dye. Perhaps this was a common item to have in a household that was considering dying. 5 The use of urine is mentioned frequently in this booklet. It does not explain how knees and let the ball run on the indigo till it be ground to paste; observe occasionally to scrape down with a knife the indigo which adheres to the sides of the kettle, lest you should waste it. the urine was obtained. Was it from humans or cattle? I would guess that urine was alkaline and therefore contained the necessary reducing ingredient. See footnote 3 on the use of Indigo. If your indigo be too dry, add a little more urine. It should be sufficiently moist, that the ball may roll freely; but not so thin as to slop over. This process of grinding should be continued about half a day. The indigo being thus prepared, may be set aside for the present. Your vat is, in the next place, to be put in order. First, it should be about half full of boiling water; then put in a pound and a half of pot-ash 6 , dissolved in water; to this add twelve quarts of wheat bran 7 ; after sifting out all the flour or kernel, sprinkle it into the vat with the hand, and stir the dye with the rake. This done, add twelve ounces of good grape madder 8 , then with the rake mix it well with your dye. In the next place, take the indigo you have ground, nearly fill the kettle with warm water; keep the ball rolling, while the kettle is filling, and let the ball run until the indigo is well united with the water; then let it stand and settle for two or three minutes, then pour the water that is on the Indigo, into the vat. Be careful that none of the sediment at the bottom of the kettle is turned off with the water; this must be ground again, and more warm water added and poured off, in the manner just described, until the Indigo is nearly all dissolved. Observe, through all this process, your vat must be closely covered, excepting the time that is necessary to introduce the engredients, (sic). When you have poured in all your Indigo, which is the last article, you will do well to stir up the dye with the rake; then cover your vat, if possible to exclude the circulation of the air. Let your vat, thus confined, remain for eight or nine hours before it be opened. Half a pail-full of grounds from an old vat, that is in good order, might be useful as the first article introduced into a new one. However, in sitting a new vat, the evening is the best time, having all the materials, we have mentioned, introduced, by the hour of ten at night. Then your dye may rest till the morning; when you should open the vat and plunge your rake from the top to the bottom of the dye. This should be done with activity and exertion. Bubbles will appear and by repeating the plunges six or seven times, if a thick blue froth rises on the surface of the dye which is called the head, continuing to float, and further, if it put on the appearance of a darkish green, the dye may be pronounced in a good state and is fit for coloring. Perhaps, the process of plunging must be repeated two or three times; but remember every time, after you have plunged your rake in the dye, to cover your vat closely, and to let it rest for an hour between trials. If your dye becomes cool, it will not rise to a head, though it be good. If the dye becomes cool it must be heat(sic) again. This will retard business and cause trouble. It the dye when first opened, in the morning appear of a pale blue cast, 6 (A) Potassium carbonate. (B) Potassium hydroxide. (C) Any of several compounds having potassium, ESP soluble compounds of potassium oxide, potassium chloride, and various potassium sulfates, used mainly in fertilizers. 7 The seed husk of cereals separated from the flour by sifting or bolting. In this case bolting means to pass through a sieve. 8 (A) A plant of the genus Rubia, esp. a Eurasian species, R. tinctoria, with small yellow flowers and a red fleshy root. (B) The root of this plant, once an important source of dye. (C) A red dye derived from the madder root. instead of a dark green, an handful or two of Madder 9 must be sprinkled into the vat. The dye in the morning after it is set, should be so warm that you cannot bear your hand in it longer than one minute. If the dye appear of a pale indifferent color, and a whitish scum rises on the surface, it does not work and will not color; in this case, the dye must be heat(sic), and a small portion of all its ingredients must be added; also a handful of stone lime 10 should be put to warm water, and after settling, pour off the lime water into the vat. Many, through want of better instruction, will frequently look into the vat, to discover the state of the dye. By thus exposing it to the air it cools, and they will never bring it to a head till they are taught better. Of all dyes, the blue is the most difficult, and must be attended with the greatest care. After the vat is set and comes to a head, it may stand secure till employed for dying cloth. When the cloth is ready for coloring, the dye must be heat(sic). 9 Since the term handful of Madder is used, it is assumed that Madder came in a powder or granulated form. 10 (A) Calcium oxide. (B) Any of various mineral and industrial forms of calcium oxide differing chiefly in water content and percentage of such constituents as silica, alumina, and iron. (I did not find a definition for stone lime per se.) If you have sixty yards of flannel 11 , that is, so many yards of cloth after it has been scoured, or one quarter fulled 13 ; two pounds of Indigo ground with a ball according to our former direction must be put into the vat, together with the proportionable additions, of Potash, Madder and wheat bran. The dye should be raised within three inches of the top of the vat. Let the vat be hot at night when you leave it; to preserve the heat, enclose the vat with a number of yards of cloth, that it may be sufficiently warm in the morning. At that time, when you open it, plunge your rake in the dye, then cover it closely; rest one hour then plunge again, repeat these operations two or three times. If the dye be in a good state and work well, there will be as many as ten or twelve quarts of froth on head, floating on the surface of the dye, whose color will appear of a beautiful dark blue; at the same time, the body of the dye will give you a dark green. This is the proper state of the dye, for coloring; or when the dye ought to be employed. The cloth should be cleansed from all filth; especially grease; for grease will overset the dye even in its best state. Also everything should be prepared when the liquor is in readiness. So soon as the vat is opened, the head or froth should be taken off and put into a vessel that will contain it, next the net should be let down, and the stick, or cross placed about one inch below the surface of the dye, for the purpose of hailing (sic) the cloth over it. In the next place, the cloth is to be taken from hot water, being well drained, which process must be observed every time of dipping; hall (sic) the cloth into the vat, beginning at one end, keep it open, till you have drawn the whole piece into the dye. Persevere in hailing (sic) backwards and forwards from one end to the other for twenty minutes; at the same time it should be entirely in the dye. After this process you should begin at one end of the cloth, wring it up and take it on the folding board, and fold it over until it become blue and even; for if this process be neglected your goods will be spotted. The cloth when first taken out of the vat will exhibit a green shade; but being exposed to the air, will become blue. Dip the cloth twice; then take out the cross and net; put back the froth, or head, which was taken off. Stir your dye and plunge your rake in it; then close the vat for an hour. After that, proceed as before, till the color you wish is obtained. 11 A soft woven cloth of wool or a blend of cotton and wool. 12 (A) To cleanse. (B) To remove by scrubbing. (C) To remove soil or grease from wool fibers. (D) A cleansing agent for wool. 13 To increase the weight and bulk of cloth by shrinking and beating or pressing. The cloth must now pass a second milling 14 . In the mean time, it will be well to prepare your vat to receive the cloth for the last time. Put four or five pounds of woad 15 , well powdered into the vat. This will save indigo and render the color brighter. The woad should be put into the vat once, in two or three times of coloring, that is after the dye had done work, or when the dyer has done using it for the time. After this the dye should be kept close 16 till it is reheat (sic) for another coloring. The dyer must be careful in hot weather to heat the vat once in a month, or six weeks to preserve it. He must also take off the maggots which will appear on the vat above the surface of the dye. When the liquor becomes thick and gluttenous (sic), by use, the dye must be boiled, the scum taken off and the dye returned to the vat. At the same time add a little lime- water, to clarify the dye and settle the grounds, for if the sedament (sic) rise the color will not be good. The dyer should never dip his goods till the grounds are well settled. N.B. After coloring deep blues, the dyer may use his vat to color various shades of the sky blue, which will answer a better purpose now when his dye is weak. Of the Indigo vat with urine Take one pound of indigo, beat it small, then add to it one quart of sharp vinegar; being put into a small kettle, the them simmer over a small fire, for twenty four hours. As the vinegar evaporates, add more, it the indigo be not all dissolved by this process, it must be taken off and ground in a mortar, or with a cannon ball, tin the same liquor; occasionally adding a little urine; put in two ounces of Madder, mix it well with a stick. In the next place put this composition into a cask or vat of urine, which will contain five gallons, mix all well together. Stir your tub or bat with a stick morning and evening for eight or ten days till the surface of the liquor being agitated appear green, producing a froth like the common blue vat. In this state your dye is fit for coloring. These vats are very convenient for the dying of wool and woollen yarn. Families may employ then at their 14 Did not locate a good definition for a kind of milling that refers to a treatment of cloth that has already been created. 15 (A) An Old World plant, Isatis tinctoha, once cultivated for its leaves that yield a blue dye. (B) The dye obtained from the woad. 16 Meaning kept shut or not open. pleasure, and make then large or small, at the same time attending to the suitable proportions of indigo and madder, as above prescribed. When the dye becomes thick and gluttenous, the whole should be boiled and the scum taken off. Observing these directions, your dye will last many years. N.B. The vat must not be crowned; two or three pounds of cloth or yarn is sufficient for one coloring in a vat which will contain a barrel For Navy Blue The Navy Blue is a cheap and good color; its tine is beautiful and it leaves cloth soft and pliable. The Indigo blue is expensive, and its color is obtained with much care and trouble. The former being nearly as handsome will of consequence be much more used. To produce this color, the copper or chaldron (sic) must be cleansed and then filled with pure water. For twenty yards of fulled, or thick cloth, put into the copper one pound and an half of good green Copperas; let the water boil and take off the scum that rises; this being done, your cloth wet in warm water; is to be dipped in the dye for twenty minutes; then cool it over the folding board; after this, dip your cloth again, for one hour, then cool again and rinse your cloth well in a running stream. Now empty the copper and fill it again with clean water. At this time you must have about six pounds of good Loogwood (sic), well boiled, by itself. Bring the water in your copper to boil; then add your Logweed to the liquor, stir it well together, and then dip the cloth about half an hour; then cool, following this process till the color designed is obtained - this is a very dark blue. Rinse your cloth well, in order for dressing. This color will bear well the heat of the press. Woolen yarn, for coverlets, stockings, etc may, in this way colored to advantage. Thin cloths are beautifully colored in this way; by adding two gallons of urine, it will make the colors strong as a deep blue, and with less expence (sic). For Raven black, or Crow color The copper is to be filled with clean water and brought to boil. For twenty yards of fulled cloth, put in one pound and an half of good Roman vitriol. After it be well dissolved, dip the cloth for half an hour, then cool it; after this dip for one hour, cool it again and rinse it. In the next place the copper must be emptied and filled again with clean water. Put in on e peck of Sumack (sic) berries; if they can be obtained, one pound fustic chopped fine, and one pound of madder; boil them well in the copper, then dip your cloth half an hour; then cool it. after this add from time to time the liquor of logwood, as in the navy blue till the color is obtained. Now rinse your cloth for dressing. Be careful and not beat ( heat) your press too hot; if you do you will find it difficult ever to restore it. N.B. Cloth of this and almost all colors must be kept open while running on the reel If this be neglected the cloth will be spotted and unfit for use. Many dyers let their cloth lie in copper and then cannot account why the colore is uneven, but if they would attend to their day they would avoid reproach, and their customers would find no reason of complaint. 10 For Black Many have considered this as a difficult color to obtain. Various methods are employed to obtain it: - The following is the best to be found. Fill your copper with pure water, for 20 yards of fulled cloth or 30 of thin; after the water is put in, add half a pound of common vitriol; bring your liquor to boil, and dip your cloth 20 minutes; then take it out and fold it over the folding board; then dip one hour - mind and keep it open when running on the reel; then take it out and cool it over the board; rinse your cloth well; empty your copper, and fill it agin with clean water; have six pounds of good log-wood, one pound of Nicaragua; half pound Fustic, well boiled together; bring your copper to boil; add two pails full of liquor to your die; dip your cloth half an hour; take it up and cool; add the liquor prepared, and dip your cloth, till the color desired is obtained; then rinse your cloth in the mill, in a strong suds - then your cloth is fit for dressing. Recipe for light and dark Cinnamon, London Browns and British Muds All these are obtained from the same pool, or dye. For twenty yards of fulled cloth, when the copper is filled with pure water brought to boil, the dyer must put in three pounds of good camwood, let it boil in the copper fifteen minutes, then dip your cloth for two hours. Keep it open and running over the reel; then take up the cloth for coloring. Add as before three pounds of camwood and dip your cloth again according to the same prescription. Then the light cinnamon is obtained and the cloth may be rinsed for dressing. For the next process, add to your dye a samll handful of Roman vitriol - two table spoonsfuls of oil of vitriol and one of good Copperas. Let them simmer well in the copper; take off the scum, or filth that rises on the dye; stir it well; then dip your cloth that is colored light cinnamon. Follow this for half an hour; turning the reel briskly, that the color may be even; by this the dark cinnamon is obtained. From the dark dinnamon, the dyer will obtaian a London brown, by adding Copperas to his dye and dipping his cloth, from time to time till it acquired the shade he shooses. British mud is still darker, being almost a black. After the London brown is obtained, add the liquor of Logwood to the same dye, united with a little Copperas; then dip your London brown, from time to time till you obtain the shade designed. Those vbarious colors, obtrained by conforming to the foregoing prescription are strong and good. Those of them, that are dark, will neither fade nor spot. The strongest acids will not move them. N. B. In these colors, excepting the light cinnamon, the oil of vitriol must never be neglected. By this ingredient the colors are rendered bright and clear. In this dye, you may color an almost numberless variety of shades, which exist between the light cinnamon and the almost black, British mud. After finishing the high colors, a little bark of almost any kind may be added to the dye, which will then give you good browns on coarse cloths for common use. This is worthy the dyers observance. Observe in general, that you never put in the oil of vitriol until the ground of the color is laid in the cloth; for if the dyer add ever so much Camwood after the oil is in, it will be 11 entirely lost. Observe after your cloth is dyed a British mud, that by adding a trifle of pot or pear- ashes, you may bring your British mud to a bright purple blue, which is a beautiful color. Rinse your cloth well in a weak suds. For Saxon Green Take three ounces of good Indigo, pound or levigate it so small, as to run it through a fine sieve. Put your Indigo, thus prepared, into a small vessel, gradually add one pound of the oil of Vitriol, stirring it for one hour. It may then stand for a day, excepting tweo or three times in this period, it should be worked in the same manner by stirring it. After this process it is fit for use. In this state, the compound may be preserved for a year, being put into a glass bottle and comfined with a stopper of Beeswax. It is the better way, to prepare a number of pounds of the oil, with their proportions of Indigo; observing to shake, or stir the engredients well together, when you wish to pour off for sue. Thick cloth must not be dyed till it is napped, shorne and all the nubs picked off. For twenty yards of dulled cloth, twenty-five yards of baize, or thirty yards of thin cloth, take ten pounds of good Fustick, chipped fine and put it into the copper filled with clean water. Bring the water almost to boil. Apply this heat for eight or nine hours; then take out the chips, and lay them where they will dry; for they may be afterwards profitably employed in common drab colors. Now have the dye hot and dip your cloth for half an hour - then take it up for cooling; add four pounds of Allum to the dye and take off the filth that rises. Now dip again for an hour; then take up the cloth, bring the dye to boil, and put in seven or eight spoonfuls of the compound of oil of vitriol and Indigo; let the dye boil a few minutes - stir it well; then dip the cloth half an hour, turn the reel briskly and keep the cloth open. Now take it up to cool. In this manner repeat dipping and cooling till the color is obtained. Then rinse and dry it for dressing. Now without the addition of any mor dye-stuff, ten or twelve yards may be colored in the same dye, of a beautiful pea green, by dipping two or three times. The cloth also will retain the color tolerably well. Bottle Green. Two methods are employed to obtain this color. By the first the cloth is brought to a dark Saxon green; in the next place the process is the same that is followed in navy blue. But the color is not bright when obtained, and is attended with more expense and trouble than the second method, which we shall recommend. The prescritpion for twenty yards of dulled cloth. Run or dip it in vitriol water in the same manner as for raven black, then rinse the cloth and empty the copper. In the next place take six pounds of good fustic chips, and four pounds of logwood chips; boil them well in the copper for four or five hours. Then dip the cloth for half an hour; then cool it, 12 and thus proceed till the color is obtained. After this rinse and dry in the dressing. N. B. If there be two drafts or packs of cloth to color, take one quart of the liquor, that the dye may equally color each packk, by occasionally adding the liquor again as you need it. For Snuff Brown Take twenty yards of fulled cloth, run it in a copperas liquor, the same as for navy blue. Rinse the cloth, empty the copper. Next fill it with clean water, put in ten pounds of Fustic chips and one bushel of Butternut bark; boil them four or five hours; take it up to cool, and follow the process of dipping and cooling, till you obtain the color designed. Hemlock bark will answer as a substitute for butternut, but its color is not so good nor so durable. N.B. In this color, it is the better way to have the liquor of Fustick, and of Butternut, boiled separately, and put into tubs to be employed as occasion requires. If the dye do not bear sufficiently upon the yellow, add to it the liquor of Fustick; if the red be wanting, employ the liquor of Butternut. By this method, the dyer may induce the color to meet his fancy. Having obtained the first object of the dye, if you wish to color common browns, add to it the barks of yellow oak and hemlock; boil them well in the dye and then you may obtain a variety of shades on the brown. Remember also, that your cloth must be well copperased before you run it in the dye. N.B. When you have obtained the snuff brown, by adding a little of the decoction of Logwood, the same dye by further dipping will produce a London smoak, P.S. By running cloth, which has either of the colors, in a weak solution of Peal-ash, it will give more of a red cast. For Scarlet This is styled the king of colors. But a few years since, the scarlet was first produced from the dyes of this country; an opinion generally circulated, that the waters of America would not answer in this dye; and also that a vessel of silver, or pure block-tin was necessary to contain the scarlet dye. However, experience has taught us, that these opinions are erroneous and groundless. The waters of this country are as pure and soft, as those of Europe, and a brass or copper caldron, if well cleansed, will leave the color as clean and bright as any vessel whatever. Brass is to be preferred, since it is kept bright with less trouble. To produce a neat scarlet upon cloths, they must be milled, napped and shorne, fit for the press, before they be dyed, as dressing will tarnish the color; beside, this method will save much dye-stuff, which comes highly charged. 13 After the cloth is well dressed for the dye, for seven pounds of cloth, take one pound of Aquafortis duplex, and one pound of water; put them in a glass vessel; add one ounce of Salamoniac gradually, having it pounded fine, add half an ounce of Salnitre, in the same manner, shake them together, till the salts are disolved; then add to the compound, three ounces of Granulated tin; introduce it gradually, till it is all in. It will be well to set, or mix it in the morning, then it will be ready for use the next morning. So soon as the tin is principally dissolved, make the vessel close, with a glass or beeswax stopper. This is then called the composition for scarlet. The cloth being well cleansed and wet, in order for dying, fill the copper with pure water - put in three pounds of wheat bran, enclosed in a bag, made for that use and tied closely. Let the water boil, then take out the bag of bran. Add to the dye one ounce and an half of Creamtartar, well pulverised. Let it boil, a few minutes, then add tow and an half ounces of Cochineal, boil fifteen minutes; then introduce one third of the composition, already prepared, and the dye will change from a deep, to a blood red. Now dip the cloth for an hour; keep the cloth spread, and let it run briskly on the reel. Take it up to cool; add to the dye as before and dip for an hour; take up and cool again; add, dip and cool the third time, in the same manner. Now put into the dye, three table spoonfuls of Turmerech, well levigated; boil a few minutes; dip the cloth half an hour which will be the fourth and last dipping; then take up and rinse it well for drying and pressing. You will observe, that the process, as we have stated it, requires seven and an half ounces od Cochineal, five ounces of Creamtattar, once ounce of Salamoniac, half an ounce of Salnitre, or Saltpetre, three ounces of Granulated tin, together with the Turmerech mentioned in the prescription. These will color seven pounds of cloth, or other goods in proportion, a beautiful scarlet; equal to any that is imported. P.S. Grain-tin is a mettle by itself; it comes in various forms and sizes, from half an ounce, to half a pound in weight. It gives a bright appearance. To granulate this tin is to reduce it into samll particles or grains, which is done, in the following manner. Take the grain-tin and melt it down, over a hot fire; then hold it about two feet, above a pailful of clean water, and by shaking the hand, gradually drop it into the water. Then take it out and dry it for use. N.B. In coloring, be careful to pour none of the sedament of the composition, into the dye. Take off all the filth that rises on the surface, previous to each dipping. Enter your goods when the dye is boiling. After the cloth is well rinsed, lay the nap with a clean brush, then tenter. After the cloth is dried, take out all the specks with tweezers. Press in clean papers, not hot; for the heat of the press tarnished the color, or makes it too red. Orange Red This is red and yellow united - various methods procure it; and it will be bright or dull according to the engredients (sic) employed to obtain it. 14 The best and brightest orange is raised by first coloring the cloth scarlet, and then dipping it is a yellow dye made of Termerech and Fustic. It may also be obtained by coloring the cloth crimson and then yellow; or first dipping in Redwood or a Madder dye and afterwards in the yellow dye. However, this color on woolens, is not much used in this country. For Madder Red The preparation for this dye is similar to that of crimson. For one pound of cloth, put in the copper six ounces of Allum, one once of red Tartar, and the same quantity of wheat bran as you employ in crimson. Observe the same process in dipping and cooling. For the next process, empty and fill your copper again; when the water has acquired the warmth that you can just endure your hand in it, for every pound of cloth, put in half a pound of the best Madder. Be careful to mix it well in the copper, before you introduce the cloth. Then dip for an hour. Observe, at the same time, that the dye must not have more than half the heat, whcih would be necessary to boil it. If the dye be too hot, it will tarnish the color. Having dipped for one hour, take up the cloth for cooling. Then dip short dips two or three times, that the color may be equal and the strenght of the Madder recived. N.B. It is a good method to soak the Madder several hours in sour beer, or sour bran water, before it is employed in the dye. Madder-red is a beautiful and permanent color. Claret from Redwood This color is but little used at the present day, because it soon fades; almost any acid liquor will spot it. Camwood will produce almost as bright a claret as Redwood, and its color is durable. Prescription for Claret from Redwood The cloth must be well prepared in Allum and RedTartar. The copper being filled with clean water, for twenty yards of fulled cloth, put in three pounds of Allum and half a pound of Red Tartar; let them boil till well dissolved; then dip the cloth for half an hour - cool it, then dip three hours; after this, cool and rinse well the cloth in running water; now empty the copper and fill again with water; put in nine pounds of Redwood and two pounds of Logwood, chipped very fine. Boil them three or four hours; then dip the cloth for half an hour; then darken the shade with Verdigrise; the Verdigrise must be ground with urine to a paste, of the same consistency as the oil and Indigo for green. The dyer will add about one tea=spoonful of the Verdigrise, thus prepared, to the dye, mixing in well with the liquor; then dip half an hour; then cool. Thus proceed till the color desired is obtained. 15 If the dyer wishes to color Redwood red, he must omit the Logwood and Verdigrise, and add a little more Redwood. Some dyers darken the shade with Copperas, but it will not give so bright a color as Verdigrise; but, as has been observed, this color sooon fades. However, upon some goods, Redwood will bestow a good color, by observing the following directions: - Prepare your goods, as before prescribed, and put them into a brass kettle with the Redwood - let them soak for nine or ten days; by this method you may obtain a good red, on yarn, which will bear washing in soap suds, which will render the color darker and brighter. In this way women may color their own yarn, but cloth will not receive the color equally. For Ash Color, with Nutgals. For twenty yards of fulled cloth, put into the copper three or four table-spoonfuls of the four of Nutgals, that is, they must be well levigated. Let the dye boil for half an hour; then dip half an hour; take up and cool the cloth. Now add to the dye a piece of Allum about the size of a Quail's egg; let it boil, being careful to take off the filth that rises on the surface of the dye. Now dip the cloth half an hour, keeping it open and running on the reel; take up and cool it. Now add to the dye a tea=spoonful of Copperas and dip as before, till the color be obtained. If the dyer think proper, he may increase the quantity of Copperas as the color darkens; however he need be cautious how he employs it; experience will soon teach him. where Nutgals cannot be obtained, ash may be colored with barks. For the quantity of cloth above names, take one peck of yellow birch bard, as much of white ask bark; well rossed, and two quarts of sassafras bark, boil them well together for two or three hours; then take out all the barks and dip tow or three times as in other dyes; then the cloth is said to be grounded, or to have received the foundation of the color. After this darken the shade, by the addition of Copperas, the saame as in the dye of Nutgals, only this will require a little more Copperas. This method of dying ash; produces a decent color. For Slate When the cloth has obtained a dark ash, either from Nutgals, or barks, run it in a weak decoction of Logwood; repeat the operation - if necessary, add a little Copperas until the color desired, is produced. N.B. By adding a small quantity of urine, you may beautify the color, and make it much stronger and more durable. For Forest Drab This color is much used, on cloths for great coats and is suitable for such garments. For twenty yards of fulled cloth. - Your copper being filled with pure water, put in a 16 pailful of Sumach chipped fine, one pound of Fustickk, half a pail of Alder bark and two ounces of Nutgals, well pounded. Boil them toghether three or four hours; now dip half an hour; then cool; observe this process of dipping and cooling, two or three times. However, previous to dipping the last time, put in a piece of Allum, the biggness of a Quail's egg. See that the scum is taken off every time you dip. Having dipped once after the Allum is in, the cloth will obtain its ground work. Take it up, and add a small handful of Copperas to the dye, then dip the cloth half an hour; take up and cool; thus proceed, till the color desired is obtained. If you want a very dark Forest Drab, you must use a quantity of urine, which will darken it almost any shade you wish. N.B. Increase the quantity of Copperas every time you dip the cloth. Rinse well for dressing. This color is inclined to darken. P.S. By adding a little yellow oak, Hemlock, or Butternut bark to the dye, and boiling it well, a cheap and good brown color may be produced, which many people prefer for common use. For dark drab Brown. For twenty yards of fulled cloth, put into the copper half a bushel of hemlock bark and one peck of yellow oak, or walnut bark; boil them till the strength of the barks is extracted; then take out the bark. Dip and cool, two or three times, as in laying the ground of other dyes. Then raise the color with copperas, dipping and cooling until it becomes as dark as you desire. However, the dyer, if he pleases, may prepare his cloth in copperas the same as in navy blue, and then run it in the decoction above mentioned. Olive Green In this color the yellow shade predominates, and is connected with a tint of the light blue. To obtain this color, bring the cloth up to a light blue; then the compound of oil and indigo in small quantities. Dip the cloth a number of times, until its color meets your fancy. This color is bright and is not so much disposed to fade as some others; neither is it so durable as some. Yellow This is frequently needed for baize, and sometimes to mix with other dyestuff, such as greens and snuff browns, and in a number of other shades, which without yellow could 17 not be obtained; hence this color is of importance to all dyers. Termerech produces the best yellow. For twenty yards of fulled cloth, put into the copper two pounds Allum and four ounces of cream tarter; let them be well dissolved; then boil and dip the cloth two or three times for half an hour each time, cool as often as you dip. Now rinse the cloth, empty the copper and fill with clean water. When the water boils, having the Termerech well pounded, add four or five tablespoons of it to the dye; boil a few minutes, then dip the cloth half an hour; cool, and thus proceed until the color meets your fancy. This color is bright and lively. By this method you may obtain an innumerable variety of shades that my exist between the straw color and the full yellow. However, it is expensive, and not much employed on cloths in America. N.B. The dyer will remember the lighter the shade is which he means to give, in the same proportion he must decrease the quantity of allum and tartar. Olive Brown This color is easily obtained. First, copperas the cloth as in navy blue, only here for twenty years of cloth add to the copperas liquor half a pound of Roman vitriol. Empty and make a new liquor of fustic, add ten pounds; dip the cloth two or three times till the color rises to your pleasure. Then rinse and dry for dressing. This color will appear dark, bright and lively. On whitening woolen cloth A close convenient room is necessary for this purpose. It should be prepared with window shutters, which may be thrown open when necessary. A sufficient quantity of tenterhooks should be placed in the joists to hold up the cloth while whitening. The cloth being clean and moist, not so wet as to drip, the workman hangs it by the selvage on the hooks, beginning at one end and proceeding to the other, keeping it spread, that one part may not fold on another. For twenty yards of cloth take two pounds of sulphur, grossly beaten, put it into three or four iron pans or kettles, placed in different parts of the room; ssprinkle ashes over the suphur, and set it on fire; shut the room close for ten hours. Then going the outside, throw open the window=shutters to let the sulphurous vapor blow off. For any person to enter such a room before it is ventulated, he would be in danger of suffocation. By this procedure woolen cloth may be rendered as white as fine India shirting. Stockings, or hose and other ssmall things may be whitened unter a long tub. Blue Dye for Linen and Cotton 18 To obtain this color in the cold water vat, the dyer should have tow vats, each one containing about two barrels. They should be about three feet high, that the skeins, when hung in the vat, may not disturb the grounds at the bottom. There should be two vats, in order when one is weak, the yarn may in the other be brought up to a full color; and also when one in strength is employed, the other may be replenished with dye-stuff. To raise, or set a new vat, it should be about two thirds full of clean water; it should stand in the sun or in some warm corner of a room. Put in foru quarts of good malt and as much wheat bran; from both, all flower should be sifter. Stir the dye once or twice a day, for four or five days. Next put in six pounds of Potash dissolved in warm water, and one pound of good Madder; stir the dye well. Take two pounds of well chosen Indigo, grind it well and turn it in after the same manner as in the wooolen vat. Stir again, that the ingredients may be united. Now it may stand, excepting it should be stirred once in twelve hours. If the weather be warm, perhaps the dye will begin to work in fourteen or twenty days. You will know when this takes place from the liquor, which will give you a dark green appearance, and a little froth or head will rise on the surface of the dye. Now the dye should be plenged, with a rake, once a day, till it is in a proper state fordying. If the dye will work in five or six weeks, it will do well, and last severla years, if no dirty yarn, or greasy goods be entered. When the dye is in a proper state for coloring, it will appear of a dark green, and a deep blue froth or head, will continue to float on the top of the liquor. Without these tokens, it will not color. When the dye becomes weak, replenish it with Indigo, Potash and Madder, in the quantities before prescribed. N.B. When the dye is replenished, a quart of malt and as much wheat bran must be added to keep it alive. The dye will be fit for coloring again in four or five days. The yarn, in order for dipping, should be cleansed from all filth; the skeins should be let down singly with a stick run through them, which will rest on the top of the vat. By this the dyer may shift the yarn, whcih must be strictly attended, in order that the skeins may equally receive the color. When the yarn is as dark as you wish, take it up, wring, rinse and dry it. Perhaps, if the dye be rather weak, the yarn will require repeated dippings. There are many methods by which blue is obtained on cotton and linen; but the above in general, is most approved. The second process to obtain blue on Linen and Cotton The dyer may take barrels, or vessels of a larger, or smaller size, in proportion to the goods, which he expects to color. However, vats made for the purpose are preferable. See that the casks are perfectly clean. If the dye be set in a barrel cask, grind with a ball one pound and an half of good 19 Indigo to a paste; while grinding, moisten it with some lime-water and a solution of Pot-ash whcih we shall soon notice. Dissolve three pounds of Potash, in an iron kettle, with three quarts of water. Steep one pound and an half of quick lime, in three or four quarts of hot water, and when it is welll settled, turn off the water into the Potash; then pour the Indigo into this compound of Potash and lime, after the same manner as is prescribed for the woolen bule vat. Let these boil toghether, moderately, till the Indigo rises to the top of the liquor; whcih may be known, by rapping the bottom of the kettle with a small stick; if it sound hollow, the dye is sufficiently united. Now slack as much more lime; add six or eight quarts of warm water and three pounds of Copperas. When the Copperas is disolved, turn it into the vat or cask, which is to be previously about half filled with warm water; then turn the compound of Indigo, &c. from the bottle. Stir the whole together; then with warm water fill the vat within two inches of the top. After this, stir it with a stick, three or four times in a day till it is fit for use. Perhaps it will come to maturity in one day; however this much depends on the warmth, or coolness of the weather. The yarn in this vat, is to be worked after the same manner, as was prescribed in the other dye. When in the dye, the yarn should appear of a dark green; and when exposed to the air change to a blue. These vats produce a large head or blue froth, which floats on the top of the liquor. This dye cannot be replenished; when the strength is exhausted, it must be thrown out. It would be convenient to have two vats. If one dye be weak, begin to color in that, and finish in the other, whcih should be strong. By these accommodations, the dyer may color when he pleases. This is an expeditious way, because the dye is directly brought to work; and it produced good colors. But the first method is preferable because by timely replenishing it, you have a constant dye. N.B. If this dye become faint, you must rake it, and let it settle before you dip again; for the sediments will injure the color. To soften water that is hard or impregnated with Minerals Enclose a pint of wheat bran in a linen bag tied closely, put it into ten or twleve gallons of water, let it boil and take off the scum as it rises. Any water that is clean may by this method be made sufficiently soft for coloring, or to wash linen cloth. The hard or rough water which some wells produce, may be rendered soft by this prescription. Directions to preserve dyestuff from injury. If this be neglected some kinds will loose alll their valuable qualities, others will receive so much filth and dirt as to render them nearly useless. Woods of alll kinds in the stick, should be kept in a cellar raised from the ground, and so covered that the dirt or dust may not adhere. All that are ground and put in casks 20 shoulb be preserved from the air. Indigo should be preserved in a cellar and secured from dirt. Cochineal, and alll the other drugs for dying, should be confined from the air and from any kind of dirt or filty; more especially, when they are pulverised. It wil be both convenient and economical for dyers to have a number of boxes, or draws(sic), in which they may preserve small quantities of dyestuff and salts. Copperas is volatile, of consequence it should be kept close from the air. Of Shearing Cloths When the cloth is drawn over the sheer-borad, begin at the end towards whcih the nap is inclined. The shears ought to move lightly and freely to cut clean. There should be no ridges left on the cloth after shearing. Some cloths will require more shearing than others, to make them appear handsome. After cloths have been shorne once, those designed to be nearly dressed should be well napped with Teasels. Some workmen nap when the cloth is dry; others when it is wet. Either way will answer. However to nap with Teasels, when the cloth is dry is attended with less trouble. If it be well plained after shearing, it will leave a stiff nap; that is, it will be soft to the hand when it is drawn with the nap, and will feel rough when drawn in opposition to it. When the cloth is thus dressed it willl appear and war handsome. If cloth be well napped, it will generallly need to be sheared five or six times; perhaps more. However, experience is the best instructor on this point. When cloth is well dressed, the thread will not be discovered on the face, though it be shorne a number of times. Those cloths that are not napped with teasels, it will be suitable after each time of hearing, except the last to lay the nap well with a jack. Cloths in this manner may be dressed so as to appear decently. After shearing, plain well; this will leave the cloth sleek and smoothe. For nice cloths it may be well to shear the back once without napping. N.B. Large nubs should never be drawn out with tweazers, but cut off with small shears. For Black on Silk, Cotton and Linen For three pounds of cloth, either kind, take one pound and an half of good logwood chips; put them into about three gallons of water; then dip your cloth, or whatever goods you wish to dye; keep them stirring in the dye about fifteen minutes; then take out your cloth, or goods, and put in one gallon of urine, and one pound of Nicaragua, two ounces of roasted verdigrise; let them boil half an hour; take your cloth out, cool it, then add half a pound of Roman vitriol to the dye; stir your dye well, and dip your cloth for the space of one 21 hour; have your dye so hot as to boil; take our your cloth and rinse it for dressing. By this method you may dye thread as black as black silk. For Butternut Color For twenty yards of fulled cloth or thirty or thin, take three bushels of green bark, whcih has been shaved from the wood but a few days before use; in the next place fill your copper with clean water; if you have no copper, iron will answer the same purpose; put your bark in the same vessel, and let it steep about three hours, keep your fire as hot as you can; then take your bark out and run your cloth half an hour; take up and cool; then run it one hour; take your cloth up and cool it over the folding board; put into your dye three gallons of urine, stir it will, and sun your cloth half an hour, take it up and put into your dye two and an half pounds of good green copperas; bring your dye to boil, and take off the filth that rises on the dye; run your cloth half an hour; cool your cloth and rinse it well for dressing. For staining wood Red Take one pound of Nicaragua wood, one pound red wood, both cut fine, and put into a clean brass kettle to which add two gallons of water; let it boil till the strength is out, take out the chips, and put in one ounce of Allum - boil this till it makes a good red on the wood by dying it then three times in a place, letting the stain dry between times, turning it on till it makes good red. Stain and brush it over three times, when the stain is hot. To make a Japan Varnish on Wood Take three ounces gum shallock, make it fine and put into a quart glass bottle - put in one pint of strong spirits of wine, and set in the sun - shake the bottle every little time, for two hours, and the gum will be disolved, observing to have your bottle stopped, excepting a small hole in the stopper, the size of a small wire, to give vent; when the varnish is still warm, strain it through a fine cloth, then put it in a clean glass bottle and add there to tow ounces of turpentine, shake it well and then it is completed. To lay the above Varnish. Have a large phial 17 , that will hold a pint, put it two thirds full of the varnish, and lay it