it 
 
 % 
 
RECENT PROGRESS 
 
 IN THE INDUSTRIES OF 
 
 Dyeing & Calico Printing 
 
 BECNG A SUPPLEMENT TO 
 
 "The PRmTING of OOTTOISr FABRICS" 
 
 AND 
 
 "DYEING" 
 
 Antonio Sansone 
 
 Forinerhi Director of the School of Dije'mg, Manchester Technical School, 
 
 Leading Contrihutor to the Colourist Department of " The Textile 
 
 ^fanlfactnrer" ; Chemist to the Actiengesellschaft fuer 
 
 Anilin Fahrihation, in Berlin. 
 
 At present Head Chemist to the Dyeicorhs of the Cotomficio Cantoni, 
 in Legnano, Italy. 
 
 Manchester : 
 ArsEr. Heywood & Sox, 56 & 58, Oldiiah Street. 
 
 London : 
 SrMPKiN, Marshall & Co., Ltd., Stationers' Hall Court. 
 

P R E P A C E . 
 
 The present work is intended to comprise the most 
 important discoveries and inventions introduced in Dye- 
 ing, Bleaching, and Printing in the last few years, and 
 will not only serve as a Supplement to the author's 
 works on Printing and on Dyeing, but will in itself 
 be a record of the very important progress that has 
 been made in the industry within late years. 
 
 As before, I have striven to collect such matters 
 as appeared to me of importance and utility, and have 
 endeavoured to give a practical character to the work 
 by illustrating it with a large number of dyed and 
 printed patterns, and appending to each the method 
 employed in its production. I have to thank the 
 several dyestuft manufacturers who have supplied me 
 with information or patterns, the latter of which they 
 have prepared specially for my use. 
 
 The machinery makers have also kindly responded 
 to my invitation, and have enabled me to show diagrams 
 and illustrations of important machinery and plant. 
 
 I have also to express my thanks to many firms 
 and gentlemen who have helped me in various ways in 
 the publication of this work, and lastly to Mr. George 
 H. Hurst, who has assisted in collecting information, 
 especially with reference to the new colouring matters, 
 and made many useful suggestions. 
 
 Milan, January, 1895. 
 
 /j-5^) 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION : 
 
 CHANGES IN BLEACHING 
 
 CHANGES IN CALICO PRINTING 
 
 FURTHER DEVELOPMENTS IN WOOL PKINTIXG 
 
 CHANGES IN CO'lTON DYEING 
 
 ANILINE BLACK 
 
 SUBSTANTIVE COLOURING MATTERS 
 
 1 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 DIZOTIZED COLOURS — BASIC SERIES — ACID COLOURS MILLINO COLOURS 
 
 FOR WOOL THE ALIZARINE COLOURS. 
 
 NATURAL ORGANIC DYESTUFFS 17 
 
 CHEMISTRY OF COTTON DYEING 11) 
 
 COP DYEING — COTTON CLOTH AND YARN DYEING — PAPEK DYEIfiG — 
 
 LEATHER DYEING — SKIN 1 YEING — TIN FOIL DYEING FLOWEK 
 
 DYEING — LAKE MANUFACTURE. 
 
 DYESTUFF MANUFACTURERS 22 
 
 COUNTRIES ENGAGED IN DYEING AND CALICO 
 
 PRINTING ... ... ... ... 22 
 
 UN Till*: FASTNESS OF COLO U IIS TO LICHT, 
 SOAP. ALKxVLlES, ACIDS, &c. : 
 
 RESISTANCE TO ACIDS, TO 15LEACHING, ANILINE 
 
 BLACK 32 
 
 SUBSTANTIVE COLOURS: 
 
 THE TITAN COLOURS 35 
 
 THE DIAMINE COLOURS 40 
 
 DIAZOTIZING — DEVELOPING. 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 For " Alfred Werner," read " Alfred Wenner,'' 
 in List of Plates 4 and 5, figures 4 and 5, and 
 on page 2. 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 I— Bentz-Edmestoii Steaming and Saturating Kier— 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 FACE PAGE. 
 
 IL— Do. do, small size ... ... 1 
 
 IIL— Do do. do 1 
 
 lY.— Liddeard (Alfred Werners) Washing and 
 
 Blueing Machine for Yarn 
 
 Do. do 
 
PLATE II.-BENTZ-EDMESTONS st 
 
URATING AND STEAMING KIER. 
 
PLATE III.— SMALL SIZE OF BENTZ-EDMli 
 
rON SATURATING AND STEAMING KIER. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Since the publication of my first two worlvs on the "Printing 
 of Cotton Fabrics " and " Dyeing" many changes have taken 
 place in the textile colouring industries, mainly brought 
 about by the discovery and introduction into practice of 
 a large number of new colouring matters, some of which 
 are of real importance in dyeing and printing. 
 No great changes have taken place, however, in 
 
 BLEACHING, 
 
 but the Mather steamer kier has been introduced into many 
 works, and is still used in connection with the older 
 chlorine and acid treatments, but these have been 
 shortened to a certain extent. The carbonic acid (Thomp- 
 son's) process did not yield the results which were at the 
 time anticipated. 
 
 The Bentz-Edmeston continuous kier has also been 
 introduced, and is well-spoken of by some lirms who are 
 using it. 
 
 The Bentz-Edmeston process relies on the employment 
 of caustic soda in an apparatus (Plates 1, 2 and 3) in 
 which the cloth is exposed to the action of steam in a 
 continuous manner, as will be described later on in the 
 chapter relating to machinery. Plate 1 on frontispiece shows 
 the whole plant, and illustrates the treatment of the cloth 
 in the kier, and subsequent piling arrangement in the 
 storage boxes. 
 
 The old and well-known process of bleaching, as 
 described in the author's first work, is still mostly employed, 
 not only for printing, but also for market bleaching. The 
 
2 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 electrical bleaching processes have so far not found the 
 extensive application which was expected. 
 
 Amontr these the Gebauer-Knofler Electrical 
 Bleaching Process seems to have yielded fairly good 
 results in Berlin. It relies on the employment of sodium 
 hypochlorite produced by electrolysis of a solution of 
 common salt. The apparatus employed consists of a series 
 of chambers resembling those of a filter press, through 
 which the solution is made to pass while it is exposed to 
 the electrical current. It is claimed for this process the 
 advantage that it does not require the scouring of the 
 goods. Practical experience will no doubt decide on the 
 merits and demerits of the method. 
 
 The Peroxide of Hydrogen, also known as "Oxy- 
 genated Water," has found in the last few years extensive 
 employment for the bleaching of silks, tussah silk, feathers, 
 etc., and also, to a certain extent, in wool bleaching. 
 
 It is, however, seriously threatened by a new competi- 
 tor, the Sodium Peroxide, introduced by the Aluminium 
 Co. As the alkalinity of the solution obtained from it 
 would be a bar to its employment for wool and silk, 
 De Haen has proposed to use it in connection with Epsom 
 salts (sulphate of magnesium.) 
 
 In the bleaching of cotton yarn two noteworthy features 
 have been introduced. 
 
 By the Mather-Platt new combined boiling and bleaching 
 kier for yarn, all the bleaching operations are effected in 
 one and the same apparatus, without much handling of the 
 material, and for ordinary goods, good results are produced. 
 
 For washing and tinting (blueing) of the bleached yarn, 
 the Liddeard (Alfred "Werner's) machine (Plates 4 and o) 
 effects the work in a continuous manner, the yam being 
 introduced on one side and coming out at the other side of 
 the machine ready washed and blued. 
 
PLATE IV.— THE LIDDEARD (AL 
 BLUEING MAC 
 
ED ^A^ERNER'S) WASHING AND 
 NE FOR YARN. 
 
PLATE v.— THE LTDDEARD CAL 
 BLUEING MAC 
 
ED WERNER'S) \A/ASHING AND 
 NE FOR YARN. 
 
CALICO PRINTING. 3 
 
 CALICO PRINTING 
 
 has not undergone, as an industry, any drastic changes in 
 the last few years. In fact, when my first vokime was 
 pubHshed, it could have been said that calico printing 
 had attained the highest degree of development, and that 
 the evolution of this branch of industry might have been 
 considered as complete. 
 
 The great changes which were introduced in calico 
 printing by the discovery and application of the aniline 
 colours, then of artificial alizarine and aniline black, marked 
 indeed a period in the history of calico printing which 
 could not be expected to be repeated for some time. 
 
 Of course, improvements have taken place and new 
 styles introduced, but I repeat, no changes of importance 
 have been made to be compared with the events 
 mentioned above, which caused at the time such a complete 
 revolution in the industry. 
 
 Worthy of note is the introduction of several new 
 machines for effecting the printing of the fabrics on both 
 sides. And as a curiosity it may be mentioned also the 
 printing of large sheets of glass for stained windows, which 
 has been carried on with some success in a calico printing 
 works near Manchester. 
 
 In regard to new processes or new dyestuffs employed in 
 printing are to be mentioned : — in the first place the most 
 recent introduction of the so-called " indisfo salt," of Kallc's, 
 the bisulphite combination of nitro-phenyl-lacto-ortho- 
 ketone, which, in connection with caustic soda, yields 
 artificial indigo on the fibre. 
 
 The product is rather costly, but it can find employ- 
 ment in printing; but for dyeing it is at present too 
 expensive, and could not even be applied by the same 
 method as for printing. 
 
 The introduction of this product into practice is an 
 event of some importance, but it still remains to be seen if 
 it will find such an application as to be a real competitor 
 of natural indigo. Former experiences have taught us to 
 
4 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 be less sanguine in this respect, and we prefer to await the 
 results of its practical application in the industry. 
 
 Of the colours produced by the diazotizing process on 
 the fibre as at first introduced by Holliday, mention will be 
 made later on in this chapter ; here it is sufiicient to say 
 that only a limited application has been made in calico 
 printing of this method so far, although it leads us to expect 
 that other and more important developments will follow. 
 
 So far the production of Grenat or Bordeaux by this 
 diazotizing process by means of alpha naphthylamine and 
 beta naphthol has found really important application in 
 printworks. The browns or chocolate produced Avith 
 benzidine or tolidine are also useful. 
 
 The production of fine reds by means of diazotized 
 para nitro aniline and beta naphthol bids fair to be of 
 great importance for calico printing, although like all the 
 diazotized colours, the method requires a great deal of care 
 and trouble to produce good work. 
 
 In the class of steam colours the numerous and useful 
 products already existing have been enriched by some 
 further additions. For instance, the alizarine colour class 
 has been enriched by the alizarine Bordeaux and alizarine 
 cyanines ; the so-called chrome colours of Bayer have 
 also come forward. 
 
 The alizarine yellow of the Hochst Colour Works has 
 been found very useful for printing purposes. 
 
 For deep blues and indigo imitations, acetine blue of the 
 Badische has been found very useful, and is very consider- 
 ably employed, as have also the printing blues of other 
 firms. 
 
 In connection with the alizarine and other allied 
 mordant colours, the chromium (discharge) styles have 
 found extensive and useful application. 
 
 Several methods have been followed for fixing a 
 chromium mordant on the cotton cloth, but the most 
 economical has been found in the employment of bisulphite 
 of chromium. The goods are padded in this solution, 
 dried on the hot flue, and printed with an acid discharge, 
 
CALICO PRINTING. 5 
 
 and afterwards dunged with chalk and dyed with ahzarine 
 and alHed mordant colours. 
 
 In the same way are produced discharge articles with 
 tannic acid, the goods being first prepared with tannic acid 
 or sumach extract dried. Then a caustic soda discharge 
 is printed over, followed by a short steaming through the 
 Mather & Piatt steam ager, and after fixing with tartar 
 emetic or antimony salt, dyeing with the corresponding 
 aniline dyestuff". A modification of the process consists in 
 printing with antimony salt and then padding with the 
 steam colour, in which case the antimony salt acts as a 
 resist, as first found by Prudhomme. The great range of 
 substantive colours have found pretty extensive application 
 in calico printing, principally for the production of light 
 grounds, for instance, rose with Erika, Titan pink, or other 
 direct or substantive pinks, chamois with chrysamin, or 
 other substantive yellows, etc. For discharge styles also 
 the substantive colours have been found useful, not only 
 in calico, but also in silk printing. The discharging agent 
 most useful has been found to be acetate of tin. In direct 
 printing the substantive colours are little used owing to 
 their running on the white. 
 
 In connection with aniline black or steam logwood black, 
 Congo red or benzopurpurine have found very extensive 
 employment in the production of cotton flannelettes, which 
 in some countries have become valuable commercial fabrics 
 during the last few years. 
 
 The production of indigo blue articles is still a very 
 important branch of calico printing, and this in spite of the 
 pretty large number of artificial blue colouring matters now 
 existing. The discharge method with chrome is still mostly 
 followed. Some improvements have taken place in this 
 manufacture, but principally in the employment of more 
 perfect machinery, and in the recovery of indigo from the 
 spent vats. 
 
 In this branch of indigo blue printing must be mentioned 
 the very important Brandt discharging method for produc- 
 ing white and red discharges on indigo blue ground by 
 
6 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 means of chlorate of alumina in connection with sodium 
 bromide, copper sulphate and potassium iodide. 
 
 This process may be considered as one of the most 
 important improvements introduced of late years in the 
 production of indigo blue prints. 
 
 It remains to be seen if the recent introduction of indigo 
 salt, as mentioned before, will not create a certain competition 
 to natural indigo in the production of light blue prints. 
 
 The aniline black reserve or discharge stjde has acquired 
 of late great importance, not only for white on black 
 ground, but also in coloured discharges, the black being a 
 prussiate steam black, with which the goods are padded, 
 then dried on the hot flue. Now the reserve or discharge 
 is printed on. It is dried, then steamed in the Mather & 
 Piatt ager, when the black is developed and the coloured 
 discharges fixed. 
 
 The coloured discharges are produced with lakes fixed 
 by albumen. Very fine effects are obtained by this method, 
 
 A modification of this method is the Grafton & Brown- 
 ing patented process, which relies on the employment of 
 tannic acid and antimony mordant in connection with 
 a basic d3-estuff. 
 
 The goods are first prepared with tannin and an 
 antimony mordant, then washed and dried. Then follows 
 a padding in the aniline black liquor, when the goods are 
 half dried and the discharge is printed on. This discharge 
 contains the basic dyestuff, and by this means pinks, reds, 
 oranges, yellows, blues, etc., can be produced on black 
 ground. 
 
 WOOL PRINTING, 
 
 which a few years ago was only carried on by a few- 
 establish ments, and only to a limited extent, has been 
 developed in the last few years in such a way as to form 
 now a very important branch of tissue printing. 
 
 The reasons of this great development of wool or delaine 
 printing are to be found, first of all, in the cheapness of the 
 material, either pure wool or wool and cotton, but especially 
 
COTTON DYEING. 7 
 
 in the great variety of good and cheap colouring matters, 
 which have enabled the printer to produce effects and 
 diversity of patterns, combined with beauty and brightness 
 of colours, which could not have been effected before. 
 
 Then again, the printed wool fabrics are of such good 
 appearance and comparatively cheap prices that they have 
 readily become fashionable for ladies' wear. 
 
 SILK PRINTING 
 
 has also had a share in increased production and further 
 development, without hoAvever obtaining the importance of 
 a great industry. 
 
 It is, however, in dyeing, and especially in 
 
 COTTON DYEING, 
 
 that we have to record many and really important changes 
 and developments. To begin with 
 
 ANILINE BLACK. 
 
 Some years ago aniline black was only employed for 
 printing, and to a certain extent in dyeing in one bath by 
 means of bichromate of potash. The black produced by 
 oxidation, which had been found so useful in printing, had 
 been repeatedly tried for dyeing yarn or cloth, but without 
 great success, so that it was by many believed that aniline 
 black, except for the two purposes named, could have no 
 other employment in cotton colouring. The persistent 
 efforts of a few chemists and manufacturers have, however, 
 made it possible to employ the anihne black process by 
 oxidation, not only for cotton cloth, but, of late years, also 
 for yarn, and in fact aniline is now employed for both 
 purposes, in dyeing to a very large extent, consequently 
 the manufacture of aniline oil and salt has attained of late 
 a very large development, and the dyemg of aniline black 
 constitutes now a very important branch of cotton dyeing. 
 
8 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 The lowering in price of aniline oil during tlie last few 
 months, has tended, and will further tend, to increase the 
 application of aniline black both for dyeing and printing. 
 
 The black produced with aniline on cotton is the finest 
 and best black that can be produced. It is the fastest 
 colour which we possess, as far as washing is concerned ; if 
 properly dyed it possesses a beauty unrivalled by any other 
 colour ; it leaves the cotton with a soft silky feel, and it does 
 not rub off. 
 
 These properties have made it invaluable for the dyeing 
 of hosier}' goods, such as stockings, etc., which, coming 
 next to the skin, require a d3'e that neither soils the linen 
 nor the skin, and at the same time is fast to washing. 
 "With its excellent qualities the aniline oxidation black has, 
 however, two great defects. In the first instance, it is 
 liable to turn green by exposure to the air, and also when 
 touched with acid ; and in the second instance, it always 
 tenders the fibre to a certain extent. This latter defect is a 
 very serious one, and although it can be got over in a great 
 measure, it cannot be entirely removed. 
 
 For cloth dyeing two methods are employed for aniline 
 black, one by ageing, the other by steaming. In the first 
 instance a bath is prepared with aniline oil and muriatic 
 acid or aniline salt, with chlorate of soda or potash, sal 
 ammoniac and a copper salt, preferably the sulphate. 
 
 The goods are padded in this liquor, and then exposed 
 to oxidation in the ageing room or apparatus in a similar 
 manner to the printed aniline black. 
 
 After the oxidation is complete the cloth is chromed 
 and then soaped, or treated in a soap and soda bath, 
 according as a jet black or a blue black is required. 
 
 By the steaming method the bath contains, in addition 
 to the aniline salt and a chlorate and chloride of ammonium, 
 a certain amount of yellow or red prussiate, and the cloth 
 after padding and drying is exposed to a short steaming, 
 then chromed and soaped. In connection with this method 
 is the style, of recent introduction in calico printing, of 
 producing white and coloured discharge effects on cloth 
 
ANILINE BLACK. 9 
 
 previously padded with priissiate-aniline black, and dried as 
 already mentioned, 
 
 A very interesting little volume on aniline black is the 
 one published in Germany, conjointly by Prof. Noelting and 
 Dr. Lehne, being a reprint and translation of the previous 
 Trench pamphlet of the Mulhouse professor on aniline 
 black, to which are added articles by the Berlin chemist, 
 bringing the subject up to date. Another work is that 
 lately published by Dr. Kielmeyer, in German. It is 
 interesting, and is written by a practical man of long 
 experience. 
 
 Technical literature has been very profuse of articles 
 and recipes on aniline black, both for cloth and yarn dyeing; 
 yet in spite of this there are only a few establishments which 
 have been successful in producing a really good black ; this 
 applies especially to the yarn dyeing, which offers great 
 difficulties, the principal being the tendency to weaken the 
 fibre and the uneven dyeings. 
 
 Aniline black yarn dyeing was first introduced a few 
 years ago by Schlatter in the Hermsdorfs Dyeworks at 
 Chemnitz, and the colour produced by this firm has become 
 famous. Now it is dyed by several firms in Chemnitz and 
 elsewhere. 
 
 The latest improvements and changes in aniline black 
 dyeing are the bottoming with Cassella's diamine blacks, 
 either diazotized or not, and then topping with a weaker 
 anihne black, whereby the fibre is not so much tendered, 
 while the other method suggested by the Farbenfabriken 
 of Elberfeld rely on the employment of aniline fluoride, 
 which does not attack the fibre as much as the chlorhydrate. 
 
 Of the other oxidation colours so far no serious 
 application has been made. 
 
 The author, who has for years given considerable 
 attention to the subject, has discovered that the ortho and 
 para amido phenols yield good oxidation browns on cotton, 
 either by printing or dyeing, or rather padding. A patent 
 was taken by the Berlin Aniline Company (Actiengesellschaft 
 fur Anilin Fabrikation), and the processes were tried on a 
 
10 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 large scale, either b}' printing, or d3'eing with good results, 
 rnfortunately the high price of the products has so far 
 prevented their emploj-ment in practice. 
 
 The event of greatest importance in the last few years 
 is undoubtedly the development of the direct d3'eing or 
 
 SUBSTANTIVE COLOURING MATTERS. 
 
 Already in my two former works mention is made of 
 these products, which have since acquired a very great 
 importance in textile colouring, and are coming more and 
 more into use, not only for d3'eing cotton and silk, but also 
 for wool dyeing, and especially for dyeing mixed goods. 
 
 The direct Azo dyes all share with Congo Red the 
 property of dyeing cotton without the aid of a mordant and 
 in a single bath. 
 
 Congo itself, which was accepted at first with a great 
 deal of hesitation and prejudice owing to its loose character 
 aofamst lisfht and acids, has now established itself in cotton 
 dyeing in such a strong position, and has become so useful, 
 that it is difficult to think how the industry could do without 
 it. The same applies to benzopurpurine, and in a lesser 
 desrree to the other direct red colouring matters. 
 
 Red, which at one time was the most difficult colour to 
 produce on the fibre has become now the easiest, thanks to 
 the Congo and Diamine colours. 
 
 Congo red on account of its great beauty and cheapness 
 has acquired an importance in some countries hardly 
 imagined some years ago, and this just in the most sunny 
 countries of Italy and India where Congo, owing to its 
 fugitiveness against light, would have been thought the 
 least likely of all colouring matters to find employment. 
 
 These two countries, viz., Italy and India, absorb every 
 year a very large quantity of Congo which is used for 
 cotton dyeing. 
 
 In Italy it is employed principally in dyeing hosiery 
 yarns, while for weaving yarns it is also used to a certain 
 extent, and less so for cloth dyeing. AVhile in India it is 
 
SUBSTANTIVE DYES. 11 
 
 used for all sorts of purposes, but principally for dyeing or 
 rather re-dyeing garments and turbans. 
 
 In fact the Hindoos of the poorer classes who are so 
 fond of bright colours, and especially of red, give their 
 garments and turbans to re-dye in the same way as the 
 Europeans would give their linen to the washing. 
 
 For turbans, for instance, the effect of the sun on the 
 red is soon perceptible, and the colour changes very rapidly 
 Avithin a short time, but this does not trouble the wearer 
 since if he wants to look smart he can soon have his head- 
 gear re-dyed at a small cost. 
 
 To illustrate the low cost of dyeing with Congo, it may 
 be mentioned that some dyers in Italy only charge 8d. to 
 9d. per bundle of 10 lbs. It is interesting to record that in 
 England benzopurpurine is preferred to Congo, and is 
 consequently more largely used than the latter. Besides 
 Congo and benzopurpurine there is a great variety of other 
 direct reds on the market, among others Dianthine 4B, 
 St. Denis red, Titan scarlet, Delta purpurine. Diamine reds, 
 etc., all of which are useful for special purposes. 
 
 Of great importance is Erika of the Berlin Aniline 
 Company, a pink which has been found very useful in cotton 
 dyeing and printing, and also for other fibres; it is one of the 
 fastest direct colours towards light, and is likewise fairly 
 fast to air and light, being besides perfectly fast to acids. 
 By discoveries in the last few years the industry has been 
 enriched by a large number of substantive colours covering 
 almost all the tints of the rainbow except bright green. A 
 useful property of the substantive colours is the facility of 
 discharging them by means of stannous acetate, which has 
 been taken advantage of in cotton and silk printing for 
 producing white and coloured designs on cotton or silk 
 goods. 
 
 The direct substantive blacks promise to revolutionise 
 the dyeing of black on cotton; the diamine blacks of 
 Messrs. Cassella have been known for some time, but 
 their newer brands, the diamine jet black 00 and SS, the 
 oxydiamine black N, the Columbia blacks of the Berlin 
 
12 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 Aniline Co., and the fast black of the Badische Aniline & 
 Soda Fabrik, by enabling fuller, richer, and deeper blacks 
 to be more easily obtained, threaten to prove serious 
 competitors of logwood in the dyeing of blacks on cotton. 
 
 DIAZOTIZED COLOURS. 
 
 Already in my book on "Dyeing" (page 187) mention is 
 made of primuline and of the red and other colours which 
 could be obtained from it on cotton by the veiy elegant 
 method of diazotizing on the fibre, and developing in 
 another bath with beta naphthol for a red, and with other 
 developers for oranges and other colours. 
 
 This discovery of Green, although it did not acquire then 
 the importance of the production of the primuline red, 
 has been the starting point of a very important series of 
 discoveries and application of new products by the fimi 
 Leopold Cassella & Co., and later on by the Berlin Aniline 
 Company and the Farbenfabriken, Elberfeld and others. 
 
 Primuline red itself, although possessing the very 
 valuable properties of standing acids w^ell and milling, has 
 not found the very extensive application that was at first 
 anticipated, owing to its want of fastness towards light, and 
 especially also owing to the competition of Congo, benzo- 
 purpurine and other reds of much simpler application and 
 much cheaper price. 
 
 But the diazotizing process on the fibre made on a 
 substantive colour already fixed on cotton, has had really 
 important practical application in connection Avith the 
 diamine blacks of Cassella and others. 
 
 At one time the production of a black azo dye for cotton 
 was believed to be an impossibility, so that the introduction 
 of diamine black constituted of itself an important scientific 
 discover}^ let alone the practical industrial value of its 
 application. 
 
 The black that can be produced now-a-days on cotton, 
 by means of diamine black if properly fixed and developed, 
 is of a full shade, similar to one produced with logwood, but 
 
DIRECT AZO COLOURS. I3 
 
 not quite so intense as an oxidation aniline black. It stands 
 soaping remarkably well, and acid also. Owing to these 
 properties, and to the fact also that it does not rub otl 
 and consequently does not soil the linen, it is very well 
 suited for the dyeing of stockings and hosiery generally. 
 
 A diamine black, diazotized or not, can be topped with 
 a weak aniline oxidation black to procure a more intense 
 colour, the advantage being that it does not attack the fibre 
 as much as the pure oxidation black. 
 
 It must be said, however, that a pure anilhie oxidation 
 black is still the faster colour of the two, and, of course, the 
 cheapest. 
 
 The practical method of application of the diamine and 
 other diazotized lacks and blues, browns, etc., will be 
 described later on. 
 
 The diazotizing process above-mentioned is not identical 
 with the so-called HoUiday's process, although the chemical 
 principle of diazotizing is the same; still the application 
 is entirely different. 
 
 The HoUiday's process has found in the last few years 
 more extended appHcation. Without speaking of the 
 vacaceine red on cotton yarn already dyed by Messrs. Kead 
 Holliday & Sons for a number of years, it has been also 
 introduced in cotton piece dyeing as well as in direct 
 printing by the efforts of several chemists and manufac- 
 turers, among others may be mentioned Henri Schmid, 
 Horace Koechlin, Feer, Lauber etc., as also by the colour 
 manufacturers, Hochst Farbwerke, Oehler, Holliday etc. Of 
 late the introduction of paranitro aniline (Hochst, Cassella 
 and Holliday) enabled very fiery reds to be produced, 
 either for dyeing cloth or direct printing. Quite recently 
 the Badische Anilin und Soda Fabrik have introduced 
 nitrosamine in a paste form ; this, like para-nitro aniline, 
 gives a good red on cotton with beta naphthol. 
 
 The author, by the employment of paranitro aniline, 
 has been enabled to produce also a very good red on 
 cotton yarn, and by the use of other products a series of 
 interesting colours. 
 
14 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 The red produced on cotton cloth with paranitro aniline, 
 which is very bright, is found especially useful in calico 
 printing for connecting the same with other colours, 
 especially aniline black, etc, 
 
 Phenetidine has also been recommended by the Hochst 
 Colour Works for the same purpose, but is as yet too 
 expensive. 
 
 A very useful application of this diazotizing process has 
 been made in the case of the Bordeaux produced by beta 
 naphthol and alpha naphthylamine in calico printing. These 
 azotized reds or Bordeaux, although fairly fast to washing and 
 chlorine, and quite fast to acids, are not fast against light, 
 and this reduces the importance of these colours, which 
 would otherwise have been formidable competitors to 
 alizarine reds. Quite recently the Hochst Colour Works 
 have brought out a very important innovation in the 
 diazotized colours produced on the fibre, by combining the 
 use of diazotized dianisidine, copper salt, certain combina- 
 tions of fatty acids, with beta naphthol. A blue is produced 
 both by dyeing or printing, which is very fast to light and 
 to washincf. A further mention will be made of this blue 
 later on. In the 
 
 BASIC SERIES 
 
 of dyestuffs may be mentioned the indamine blues, the para 
 and metaphenylene blues, etc., indazine and others which 
 have found extensive application in cotton dyeing, owing to 
 the comparative fastness to soap. Unfortunately these blues 
 do not show a sufficient amount of fastness towards light, 
 or they would be even more employed. Similar colours 
 are the indoine blue, anil, diphene and other blues 
 of recent introduction. Among the new basic colouring 
 matters which are worth mentioning are the new methylene 
 blues of Cassella's, the new auramine G and rhodamines of 
 the Badische Anilin & Soda Fabrik and the Basle Society 
 of Chemical Industry, the turquoise blue of the Farben- 
 fabriken, the diazine blue, black and green of Messrs. 
 Kalle ; while the new basic dyes introduced by Messrs. 
 
ALIZARINE COLOURS. 15 
 
 Leonliardt, pyronine red, acridine reds, oranges and scarlets, 
 cresyl blues, azine green, capri blue, are of value. 
 In the 
 
 ACID COLOURS 
 
 must be mentioned, in the first instance, the blacks for wool 
 dyeing, some of which, especially the already-known naphthol 
 black, have acquired a very great importance for hat dyeing, 
 etc. In the series of acid dyes, especially acid azo dyes for 
 wool, the discovery and introduction of these colours has 
 been such that the wool dyer has now at his command a 
 large number of beautiful and useful dyestuffs, which for 
 cheapness and ease of application, stand unrivalled. 
 
 MILLING COLOURS FOR WOOL. 
 
 The wool dyer has now at his command a series of dye- 
 stuffs, capable of producing milling shades, to be fixed — 
 with or without mordants — and which will be mentioned 
 later on. The chromotrops of the Farbwerke Hoclist are 
 of great interest on account of their giving bright and fast 
 red shades, which can be turned to good and fast blacks by 
 a passage through bi-chrome. 
 
 THE ALIZARINE COLOURS. 
 
 To the already-known products of this class others have 
 been added, so that there is now a complete series of this 
 useful class of colouring matters. 
 
 Turkey red cannot be said to have undergone any change 
 of great importance in the last few years. Indeed when my 
 first works were published, Turkey red and alizarine red 
 dyeing had already obtained the highest degree of develop- 
 ment. Fine Turkey red of great beauty and brightness, 
 surpassing the red of a few years ago, is now dyed on 
 stocking yarns in Germany. The Erban and Specht 
 method, relying on the employment of alizarate of soda, 
 has been under study in some works recently, but 
 
16 DYEING AND CALICO PPJNTING. 
 
 we cannot form at present a definite opinion as to tlie 
 advantaf^e it ofters over the older process. Hertel has of 
 late patented a process for treating yarns preyious to dyeing 
 Turkey reds by steeping in Turkey red oil, then drying and 
 boiling with soda under pressure; by this process a good 
 bleach is produced on the yarn, suitable for Turkey red dyeing 
 
 In spite of the many efforts made by several chemists, 
 the theory of Turkey red dyeing is still to be made. Some 
 new oils have come out on the market, but it cannot be 
 said that they offer any great advantages over the ordinary 
 sulphoricinates. 
 
 The method which seems to give the best reds on cotton 
 yarn is the one relying on the employment of sulphoricinates 
 along with emulsive olive oil. 
 
 Dry alizarine is acquiring more and more importance, 
 as it saves considerably in the expenses of carriage, which 
 for large consumers is a matter of great concern. 
 
 Sulphate of alumina, as now produced, is also slowly 
 and surely replacing alum in Turkey red dyeing, not only on 
 account of economy, but also for greater surety of work. It 
 can now be obtamed practically free from iron. 
 
 The alizarine colours, although largely employed in 
 calico printing, and in late years also in wool dyeing, have as 
 3^et not found extensive employment in cotton dj^eing, this 
 is on account of there being no very simple or inexpensive 
 method of mordanting. 
 
 This difficulty is now, to a certain extent, overcome. All 
 alizarine colours can now be fixed on cotton yarn or cloth 
 by means of chromium mordant, and the methods are 
 pretty easy of application, although still rather expensive, 
 and, therefore, only capable of being used in cases where 
 expense is no consideration. 
 
 Light colours can be produced by means of the alizarine 
 by a very easy and cheap method, while the dark shades are 
 more difficult to produce, and at the same time much more 
 expensive. 
 
 The author, who has given considerable attention to the 
 dyeing of alizarine colours on cotton yarn and cloth, has 
 
NATURAL ORGANIC DYESTUFFS. 17 
 
 been successful in devising a method by means of which all 
 the alizarines can be industrially employed on cotton yarn 
 or cloth. 
 
 Of the other methods existing for the same purpose 
 some mordants are even sold readily prepared, as those by 
 Hochst and others. 
 
 A method recommended by Prof. Hummel relies on the 
 employment of tannin in connection with bichromate of 
 potash and sulphuric acid, and is similar therefore to one of 
 the methods discovered by the author, which can be applied 
 also to the fixing of nitroso compounds, as can be testitied 
 by the patent taken by the Berlin Aniline Company, in 
 whose laboratory the method was discovered. 
 
 The principal colours of the alizarine class now existino" 
 are, beside the reds, the alizarine blue and Bordeaux, the 
 alizarine cyanine and alizarine cyanine black of the Farben- 
 fabriken. 
 
 Cerulein, galleine, gallocyanine, alizarine black, gallamine 
 blue, carbazol yellow, alizarine yellow 2G, anthracene brown, 
 the anthracene blues, alizarine yellows of the Badische and 
 others, although not really alizarine colours in the strict 
 sense of the word, can still be classed as alizarine colours, 
 and all can be employed by means of a chromium mordant, 
 both on wool and cotton. 
 
 The so-called chrome colours of the Elberfeld works 
 can also be fixed by means of chrome mordants, but they 
 lack the fastness to light of the true alizarine colours. 
 
 For the fixing of mordant colours for wool the 
 fluoride of chromium has, of late years, found very useful 
 applications. 
 
 NATURAL ORGANIC DYESTUFFS. 
 
 Of these, as said before, Indigo still holds its own in 
 cotton and wool dyeing and printing. 
 
 Logwood, although seriously threatened by many com- 
 petitors, is still very largely employed, and its recent hi^-h 
 prices show that it is still in great demand. 
 
18 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 Fustic is also largel}" used, in spite of the many good 
 and cheap artiticial yellow dyestufts, and this principally 
 because it is connected with logwood in blacks and other 
 compound colours. 
 
 Su>o.c Extract and Tannic Acid are still largely used 
 in printing for the production of steam colours. In cotton 
 dyeing their importance is dhninishing, owing to the 
 less employment of basic aniline colours. Still the employ- 
 ment is a very important one. 
 
 The Manufacture of Dyewood Extracts is still a 
 very important one, but is only carried on in ver}' few 
 countries. Enfjland and the United States are well re- 
 presented in this branch of industr3^ France is still very 
 strong in this manufacture, and may perhaps be considered 
 to be the leading one, in spite of the vicissitudes which 
 have taken place in the last few j-ears in some of her 
 largest tirms. Italy possesses now two large dyewood 
 extract and sumach extract works, one in Susa, the other 
 in Genoon, both making good products. Germany's posi- 
 tion in dyewood extracts — at all events, as far as exporta- 
 tion is concerned — is by no means as important as might 
 have been expected, judging by her importance in the 
 dyeing and artiticial dyestuff industries. 
 
 The dr}' extracts are those which of late seem to have 
 had a considerable amount of preference in d3-eing 
 industries, although liquid extracts of good brands are still 
 largely employed. 
 
 Recently an American firm, Messrs. AV. J. Matheson & 
 Co., of Xew York, have brought out Hemolin, an extract 
 powder form, which in d3'eing power is stronger than log- 
 wood extract, and is employed in the same way for blacks, 
 etc. 
 
 MoRiN is a yellow extract of the same firm, principally 
 useful for dyeing compound shades, etc. 
 
 Cachou de Laval — although not a leading dyestuff, 
 is still a useful product for bottoms under dark colours in 
 cotton dyeing, for instance indigo, and also for fancy shades, 
 for which it is very well adapted. 
 
COTTOX DYEING. 19 
 
 Its manufacture is still carried on by tlie ori«i-inal French 
 firm who brought it first on the market, Poirrier, of Paris 
 (now the St. Denis Co.,) and of late also by the Italian 
 firm, Lepetit, DoUfus & Gauser, in Susa, Italy, under the 
 name of Cattu Italiano, and I think by another German 
 firm. 
 
 THE CHEMISTRY OF COTTON DYEIXG 
 
 has had a very large share of attention at the hands of 
 chemists and practical men, and has been brought to a very 
 high degree of development. 
 
 The mechanical improvements introduced in cotton 
 dyeing have been principally with the object of establishing 
 
 COP DYEING 
 
 as an industry, and several good machines are now 
 employed for the purpose. 
 
 The success of cop dyeing has not only been brought 
 about by the mechanical arrangements and plant devised, 
 but it has been especially helped by the introduction of 
 the substantive dyestuflfs. 
 
 It may easily be understood that these products, by 
 their being readily applied to the cotton fibre without 
 requiring any mordant, and in one single operation, are 
 especially serviceable and applicable in cop dyeing. It 
 may be also mentioned that good diazotized colours have 
 been produced on cops. 
 
 COTTON CLOTH AND YARN DYEING 
 
 have also had a very fair share of attention, without bringing 
 forward any great changes in the mechanical arrangements 
 or machinery required, except, perhaps, the employment of 
 special apparatus for the development of aniline black, and 
 this especially for cotton yarn, where the drying machines 
 have been found very useful in the aniline black oxidation 
 process. 
 
20 DYEING AND CALICO TEIXTING. 
 
 Several good machines have been recommended 
 for ordinary cotton yarn dyeing, but a really cheap 
 and useful machine for hank dyeing, which could 
 entirely dispense with the work of the hand, has still to be 
 invented. 
 
 By this I do not mean to say that there are no good 
 machines for hank dyeing. There are several, but none of 
 them, so far, has been able to supersede hand labour 
 entirely. 
 
 The art of colouring has attained now-a-days such a 
 development as to find no parallel in any other epoch of 
 history. The world becomes more and more civilized, and 
 there is increased need for coloured objects or fabrics, 
 consequently the arts of colouring are being more and more 
 improved, and the manufacture of dyestuffs is acquiring 
 more and more importance. 
 
 PAPER DYEING. 
 
 Owing to the enormous strides made in advertising, 
 paper dyeing has acquired a great development, and is 
 carried on in the large paper works on a corresponding 
 scale. 
 
 Not many colours are employed by the paper dyer, and 
 among these the eosine class, some of the azo dyestuffs, 
 principally scarlets, then yellows and aniline blues, a few 
 browns, the latter principally mineral colours, are used. The 
 dyeing is effected in the pulp. 
 
 LEATHER. 
 
 The dyeing of leather has also acquired very great 
 development, not only for glove making, but also for a 
 variety of other purposes. For instance, the tan leather 
 colour, so fashionable in late years for summer shoes, is 
 produced by dyeing with a kind of impure phosphine called 
 Philadelphia yellow. 
 
DYEING. 21 
 
 SKIN DYEIXG 
 
 for mats and rugs can scarcely be called an industry, but 
 it is a useful and little known branch of colouring. 
 Few colours are produced on the skins, principally black or 
 dark colours, seldom light shades. 
 
 Among the minor branches are to be mentioned the 
 
 DYEING OF LIQUORS, CONFECTIONERY, SWEETS AND FOOD 
 
 STUFFS ; and even meat is sometimes artificially coloured, 
 although this is hardly worth encouraging. 
 
 DYEIXG OF TIN-FOIL FOR CHOCOLATE AND 
 
 SWEETS. 
 
 A specially prepared spirit varnish is coloured by means 
 of a spirit solution of a basic aniline colour, and this 
 coloured varnish is poured on the foil so as to form a thin 
 film. 
 
 Varnish colouring, ink making, etc., are minor branches 
 of the colour industry, although certainly not devoid of their 
 usefulness. 
 
 The art of flower making has had for its auxiliary 
 
 FLOWER DYEING, 
 
 with the numerous and beautiful dyestufts now in use, to 
 produce brilliant and variegated tints not previously obtain- 
 able. 
 
 LAKE MANUFACTURE, VERMILIONETTE. 
 
 The manufjicture of lake colours has become a very 
 important one, among which must be principally mentioned 
 the reds and rose lakes obtained with the cosines or azo 
 scarlets, etc., without speaking of the already known blue 
 lakes and other colours obtained from the older classes of 
 aniline colours. 
 
 Vermilionette is red lead or barytes coloured with eosine 
 precipitated with acetate of lead. 
 
22 DYEING AXD CALICO PRTXTIXG. 
 
 THE DYESTUFF MANUFACTURERS. 
 
 "With the enormous importance attained by modem 
 colour industries it may not be out of place to say a few 
 words on the d3'estulit' manufacturers. 
 
 In England a great effort is being made b}^ some of the 
 older and well known firms to come again to the front, with 
 what success the future will show. The English industry 
 of artificial colouring matters is in anything but the proud 
 position Avhich it occupied at the beginning, and shares noAV 
 with Franco the honour of occupying the second rank, 
 while the first place is undoubtedly due to the German, 
 and, to a certain extent, the Swiss manufacturers. 
 
 Enijland still holds the first rank in the manufacture of 
 the primary coal tar products, that is, benzols, naphthalene, 
 and anthracene, but even in the production of benzols 
 Germany has made of late great progress by utilizing the 
 tar from the coke ovens. This new source of benzol has 
 been the cause of the lowering of the price of this article, 
 and, consequent!}', of aniline oil and salt to a degree that 
 could hardly have been thought possible some years ago. 
 The production of aniline oil and salt in England is, I 
 believe, the largest in the world. 
 
 The larcfe German colour works owe their success to the 
 application of the highest scientific and practical chemical 
 intelligence, combined with a first rate commercial ability and 
 powerful organisation. The number of chemists employed 
 can be counted by the dozen, and splendid and palatial 
 scientific laboratories are at command of the best works, 
 where a large number of chemists conduct investigations, 
 and try to find out new products, hence the large number 
 of new dyestuffs which appear almost daily on the market. 
 
 COUNTRIES ENGAGED IN DYEING AND CALICO 
 PRINTING. 
 
 Of the countries engaged in the dyeing industries 
 England stands the first in importance and volume of 
 
DYEIXG. 23 
 
 production, and, consequently, as a consumer of colounnf 
 matters. 
 
 Next in importance comes Germany, which in the dye- 
 ing trades has made, in the last few years, enormous 
 progress. For the production of dyestuffs Germany stands 
 first, as alread}^ stated. 
 
 France does not occupy now-a-days, either in dyeino- and 
 production of colouring matters, the proud position she did 
 formerly, although in silk dyeing and the silk industry 
 generally she is still undoubtedly at the head, and in other 
 branches also still maintains her good name in point of 
 fineness and good taste of production. 
 
 Switzerland, if not for quantity, for quality, certainly 
 stands very high in textile colouring industries, and 
 for the production of artificial dyestufis comes next to 
 Germany. 
 
 The United States of America have further developed 
 their large concerns Avhere dyeing and printing is carried 
 on as an adjunct, not as a self-industry, as in England ; and 
 both in cotton and wool dyeing industries and silk colourino* 
 have greatly progressed, but are only producing for their 
 home consumption. 
 
 Russia has made enormous progress in the last few years 
 in the dyeing and calico printing industries, and the 
 important centres of Lodz, in Russian Poland, and Warsaw, 
 have large and Avell-equipped works fitted with some of the 
 best and most modern machinery, and managed principally 
 by colourists from the Alsatian schools. 
 
 Italy also has of late been busily engaged in developing 
 her dyeing industries, and in cahco printing especially has 
 attained a great degree of development in the north, and 
 especially in Milan and Turin, where are large estabhsh- 
 ments for cotton bleaching and dyeing ; the wool dyeing 
 industries have been also considerably developed and 
 improved. 
 
 Spain has in Barcelona an important centre of colouring 
 industries ; and Portugal has also tried to develop her 
 manufacturing industries. 
 
24- DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 Of the Eastern countries, India may be expected at some 
 future time to come forward with dyeing and printing 
 industries on the European plan, following suit with the 
 enormous development attained by the cotton spinning 
 and weaving trades in that country. In Bombay already 
 good dyeworks (Turkey red) exist, which, under European 
 management, have given very good results. 
 
 .Japan may also be expected to come forward at a future 
 time with dyeing and printing industries. 
 
Chapter II. 
 
 ON THE FASTNESS OF COLOURS TO 
 LIGHT, SOAP, ALKALIES. ACIDS, Etc. 
 
 Some very valuable series of trials liave been made in 
 the last few years on the fastness of colours, especially with 
 reference to the resistence of colours to the action of light. 
 Among others may be mentioned those made by Professor 
 Hummel, and the Committee appointed by the British 
 Association, the results of which have lately appeared in 
 the scientific technological journals. 
 
 I will record here the result of investigations made by 
 myself exclusively with reference to colours dyed on cotton 
 yarn and cloth, which would correspond also with colours 
 produced on the fibre by printing. It has been my aim 
 for a number of years to produce a range of colours on the 
 cotton fibre which should possess the property of fastness, 
 being in this respect if not quite equal, at all events nearly 
 equal to an alizarine red Avhich I took as a type. Conse- 
 quently the first thought occurring to me was to try the 
 alizarine colours themselves, and I did not rest satisfied 
 with trying to produce colours fast to light, but at the same 
 time shades which would stand washing, that is, soda or 
 soap, in the same way as an alizarine red does. I must, 
 however, in the first instance make a few general remarks 
 on the fastness of colours dyed on cotton. I must first of 
 all observe that the property of fastness is in reality only a 
 relative one, and cannot be taken as absolute. For instance, 
 take indiiro blue, which is considered as the prototype of a 
 
2G DYEING AND CALICO PEINTIXG. 
 
 fast colour on cotton, in very light shades it is an^-thing but 
 a fast colour towards light. In fact, it is only necessar}^ to 
 expose to light, side by side, a swatch of yam or cotton 
 cloth dyed in a light shade of indigo blue against a deep one 
 to see the great dittbrence in the way they stand light after 
 only tw^o or three weeks' exposure. The light shade Avill be 
 seen to be lading very rapidl}'. In fact, I have seen goods 
 returned which had been dyed light indigo blue shades, and 
 the complaint about them was that they had rapidly faded 
 -when exposed in the shop windows. 
 
 The alizarine pink or rose has to a certain extent the 
 same defect if dyed in very light shades ; in fact, it is not 
 nearly as fast as a deep alizarine red when exjJosed to light. 
 Both facts are well known to practical men. 
 
 The degree of fastness to light depends also very largely 
 upon the way the dyestuff is fixed on the cotton tibre, and 
 also to some extent on the material on which it has been 
 d3ed. In fact, by exposing a swatch of cotton yam to the 
 action of liirht side bv side with cotton cloth rii^rht fabric) 
 dyed with the same colour, it will be found that the action 
 of the light will be much more rapid on the cloth than on 
 the yarn. 
 
 Beginning with the so-called alizarine colours, the 
 fastest colours against light I have found to be : alizarine 
 black of the Badische Anilin und Soda Fabrik, and alizarine 
 cyanine black of the Farbenfabriken Elberfeld. These 
 two dyestufis, dyed on cotton yarn by a method of my 
 own, rel^^ing on the tannm and chrome mordant, give 
 intense blacks, which have stood exposure to light for 
 several months, even through a long and very bright 
 summer season in Ital}-, without showing any appreciable 
 amount of fading. 
 
 It may be observed that the same colours stand soaping 
 or treatment with hot soda solutions remarkably well ; con- 
 sequently it would be very valuable for cotton yarn dyeing 
 for woven articles if the cost of d3-eing were not against 
 their employment. The alizarine black is the cheaper of 
 the two, but still unfortunately too high in price to allow it 
 
FASTNESS OF COLOUKS. 27 
 
 to be emplo3-ed for the purpose. On the other hand, the 
 same blacks, if dyed on a light cotton fabric, Avhen exposed 
 to light, although they stood remarkably well, did not stand 
 so well as compared Avith the yarn. When dyed in very 
 light shades they do not stand light well. 
 
 I may give here the plan which I generally follow when 
 exposing patterns to the action of the light. 
 
 To begin with, I must sa}- that those who expose patterns 
 to light under a glass and behind a glass window only have 
 an illusory test, which is not thoroughly fair, since the light 
 in passing through two panes of glass docs not act on the 
 colour the same way as if it acted directly on the material. 
 In my plan I generally expose the pattern to the action 
 of the light, at the same thne under a glass and without 
 glass altogether. The pattern is gummed on a piece of 
 cardboard, and this placed under a small frame which 
 carries alternately — 
 
 (1st) — A strip of wood. 
 
 (2nd) — A strip of glass. 
 
 (3rd) — An open space ; 
 so that the pattern is first covered Avith wood, which prevents 
 the action of light ; secondly, exposed undtr a glass ; and 
 thirdly, exposed to the direct action of air and light 
 without an}' hindrance. In many cases only a few days 
 exposure will show the difference of the action of the light 
 on the pattern without glass covering compared with the 
 other covered by glass. I must here also observe that too 
 much value must not be put on the light test in judging of 
 the utility of a colour, and that the test must only be 
 considered as a guide from which to form a judgment ; as 
 sometimes dyestuffs have been rejected owing to their 
 inferior fastness towards light, and yet these dyestuffs have 
 acquired great importance in cotton dyeing and printing. 
 With reference to the fastness of other alizarine colours, I 
 must mention here that even in the case of alizarine black, 
 if the dyestuff" is fixed on cotton by means of a chrome 
 mordant only and witliout tannin, especially in light shades, 
 it is very loose towards light. The same refers to anthracene 
 
28 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 brown, which, if dyed, for instance, on an oil and chrome 
 mordant even in a medium shade, is loose against light ; 
 while if dyed with a tannin and chrome mordant it is last, 
 and is in some circumstances one of the fastest colours 
 that can be dyed on cotton, standing exposure to light 
 for several months without changing. Anthracene brown, 
 when properly dyed, is thoroughly fast to boiling soap, and 
 especially to soda solutions. 
 
 It has already been observed by other investigators that 
 the fastness of some colours depends, in a great degree, on 
 the method by which it has been dyed on cotton, and this 
 statement I can fully corroborate here. For instance, 
 indoine blue when dyed as a direct colour on cotton, if 
 exposed to light Avill fade very rapidly ; while if dyed on 
 a tannin and antimony mordant it will stand light remark- 
 ably Avell. The same resistance to light will be obtained 
 if a direct dyed indoine blue is afterwards treated with a 
 tannin or sumac solution and antimony. The tannin 
 lake seems to effect in this case as well as in the previous 
 Distance of the alizarine colours, a powerful protective action 
 against the influence of light. 
 
 One could make use of this property for rendering 
 colours on cotton faster to light by giving them a cover 
 with a tannin lake, choosing preferably tannate of copper 
 for the purpose, thus utilizing also the valuable property of 
 copper salts, which have been proved by several investigators 
 to effect a protective action on the substantive and other 
 colours. In fact shades produced with substantive colours, 
 when topped with tannate of copper, have shown a greater 
 resistance towards light ; and for such colours, where the 
 darkening of the copper tannate is not an objection, it 
 might be found of utility for such goods as have to stand 
 greater exposure to light. 
 
 Of other alizarine colours, and with especial reference to 
 the blues, I cannot sa}?^ that there is among them a product 
 which comes up to my standard of fastness for cotton dyeing. 
 Some of them stand light very fairly, but their weak point 
 is want of resistance to washing, and especially to soda. 
 
VASTXESS OF COLOURS. 20 
 
 which either discharges the shades to some extent or else 
 o'ives to them a brownish hue. The colour which comes 
 pretty near to the requirements, Avithout, however, fulfilUng' 
 them entirely, is the alizarine cyanine. In all cases an 
 artiricial blue dyestuff that gives entire satisfaction fur 
 resistance to light, soda or soap has still to bo found. All the 
 artiticial blues I have tried have weak points in one respect 
 or another, and although they are employed in some 
 instances very largely in cotton dyeing and printing, and 
 o-ive very good results for special purposes, there is not 
 one amongst them which can be called a true and real 
 substitute for indigo. 
 
 Amonj'- the others of the so-called alizarine colours 
 well Avorthy of mention is cerulein, wdiich, Avhen properly 
 applied on cotton, gives olive green shades of remarkable 
 fiistness to air and light, and, of course, also to soap and 
 soda. 
 
 The alizarine Bordeauxs and alizarine cyanines which 
 are very valuable for wool dyeing, and to a certain extent 
 for calico printing, are too expensive for ordinary cotton 
 dyeing, and do not fulfil entirely the severe requirements of 
 a fast colour. Although not real alizarine colours, but 
 belon-^nng to the same class are gallocyanine and gallamine 
 blue. The last one when properly dyed on cotton gives fine 
 deep blues which stand light remarkably Avell ; unfortunately 
 they do not stand soda well, turning broAvn if treated by 
 this reagent. 
 
 Of the very numerous class of substantive dyestuffs, the 
 fastness against light varies very considerably according to 
 the individual colours, some of them being fairly fast to air 
 and light. In general, however, when dyed on cotton none 
 of them come up to the requirements of a fast colour. Some 
 of the yellows, however, are remarkable for fastness to light. 
 Erika and some of the other pinks also are fairly fast to 
 light. Towards soap and soda the ordinary substantive 
 dyestuffs w^ould be considered fairly fast, and would find 
 even a more extended employment if it Avere not for the 
 defect of bleeding on the Avhites. Some of the members of 
 
■30 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 this family, however, are to a certain extent free from this 
 •defect. 
 
 Of the diazotized colours produced direct on the fibre 
 some of them possess a very remarkable degree of fastness 
 towards acids, and they consequently are much employed 
 in practice. Against light some are pretty fast, some very 
 loose, and in some cases it is curious to observe that of the 
 substantive dyestufts which can be diazotized in the fibre, 
 the original colour being faster to light than the diazotized 
 shade. This rule does not hold good in every case, and it 
 •depends also upon the developer employed. 
 
 RESISTANCE TO ACID. 
 
 This is often required from colours, especially those 
 which are dyed on yarns cither in the hosiery manufiicture 
 •or in the manufacture of mixed goods of wool and cotton, in 
 Avhich the cotton is dyed first with a substantive dyestufi 
 and the wool with an acid colour in an acid bath — cross 
 d3'eing as it is called. Many of the substantive colours and 
 
 ■ especially those formed by diazotization on the fibre possess 
 this property of resisting acids, and can consequent!}' be 
 
 ■ employed for the above purpose with good results. 
 
 RESISTANCE TO BLEACHING. 
 
 There are only a very few colours which resist the 
 ■operations of a bleaching process, and consequently these 
 
 ■ only can be employed for goods in which there are some 
 coloured designs on a white ground, and which are bleached 
 after weaving. 
 
 All the colours will suffer more or less during these 
 bleaching operations. Of the very few that can be employed 
 are : 
 
 Turkey Red, that is a real Turkey red, dyed by the old 
 and long process, since an ordinary alizarine red does not 
 •resist perfectly the bleaching. 
 
FASTNESS OF COLOURS. 31 
 
 Indigo Blue. — Although discharged to a certain extent, 
 this colour will resist the bleaching operations if the 
 necessary precautions are taken. 
 
 Aniline Black produced by the one dip bath process, 
 especially if dyed in the cold, will stand the bleaching 
 process if conducted with proper precautions. 
 
 Erika Pink will also stand this treatment, and some 
 of the direct yellow colours possess also the property of 
 standing bleaching. 
 
 Azo, OR Vacanceine Red, produced on the fibre by 
 means of beta naphthol and diazotized naphthylaminc or 
 nitro-aniline will also stand the chlorine in a remarkable 
 manner, I have given considerable attention to the for- 
 mation of azo colours direct on the fibre, and have found that 
 some of them stand remarkably well the action of chlorine 
 and bleaching operations generally; these colours, how- 
 ever, do not stand treatment with strong alkalis, especially 
 under pressure, some being in fact entirely discharged. 
 
 XiTROso Naphthols, gambines, fixed on the cotton b}- a 
 tannin and chrome mordant, will also stand acids and 
 chlorine ; and although easily discharged by the scouring 
 operations if these are too severe, they will come very fairly 
 out of the bleaching process. 
 
 While mentioning these nitroso naphthols and other 
 products, gambine Y, R and B, dioxine, fast myrtle, it may 
 be worthy of notice that colours produced by their means 
 on tlie cotton fibre, on iron or chromium mordants, will 
 stand light remarkably well for several months exposure, 
 especially if they are dyed in deep shades. The fastness of 
 nitroso colours dyed on wool is already a long-known fact, 
 but that is the same for cotton, I think, it is not generally 
 known. In regard to fastness to light, the artificial yellow 
 dyestufts as a class come out fairly well from these trials. 
 Without mentioning those substantive yellow dyestufts 
 whose fastness to light is Avell-known, I will mention here 
 carbazol yellow, anthracene yellow, and alizarine yellow 
 2G, which have given me verj^ good results if fixed on cotton 
 by a chromium mordant ; they will stand light and washing 
 
32 DYEING AND CALICO PRIXTIXG. 
 
 remarkably well, and as they do not stain the white on 
 washinfT, they can be well employed for w^oven articles. In 
 conclusion a few words must be said about 
 
 AXILIXE BLACK. 
 
 The im}3ortance of aniline black is in fact due to its 
 fastness. Take, for instance, the one-dip aniline black 
 which is dyed by means of bichrome in one bath. This 
 colour, as mentioned before, if properly d3'ed, and with due 
 precautions, will stand scouring and bleaching well. It is 
 very largely dyed on yarn Avhich is used for woven articles, 
 and even for hosiery goods of the common kind. The only 
 defect of this otherwise very useful black is the rubbing, in 
 fact it rubs very badly, otherwise it would find even more 
 extensive application on a3count of its fastness to soap and 
 washing, and also light and air. It has also the defect of 
 greening, but this defect is not of much importance for the 
 goods to which it is applied, and in all cases does not 
 prevent its being very extensively employed, the more so 
 that the greening disappears by washing with soap or alkalies. 
 
 The oxidation aniline black is the fastest colour existing 
 in regard to washing. It stands air and light also well if 
 properly dyed. Its defect of greening, which at one time 
 was alwavs quoted against this black, has not prevented its 
 finding the enormous employment it finds noAv-a-days on 
 cotton goods, be it on cloth either for linings or for dress 
 eoods for man or woman's wear. It is the finest and 
 brightest black that can be produced ; it stands wear and 
 tear remarkably well. The defect of tendering the fibre of 
 cotton cloth is of secondary importance, and has been 
 reduced to a minimum by proper precautions. The same 
 applies to cotton yarn, which, if properly dyed, will not lose 
 more than 10 to 15 — in all cases below 20 — per cent, of its 
 strength. This is not prohibitive, since even by bleaching 
 cotton yarn sometimes loses 10 to 12 per cent. 
 
 The fastness of the black towards soda or soap is well 
 known to be perfect. The defect of greening, which can 
 
ANILINE BLACK. 33 
 
 also be remedied by combining the aniline black with 
 a diazotized black, is not of such importance now the 
 properties of the colour are understood and appreciated 
 by the consumers, the more so that it can be so easily 
 corrected by washing the goods with either soap or soda. 
 On the whole, aniline black can be said to be the ideal of 
 fastness for any colour that can be dyed on cotton. 
 
 It may not be out of place to give here a test for the 
 way aniline black should stand the different reactions : — ■ 
 
 1 — Boiled with an excess of soda or soap along with a 
 swatch of white cotton, it should neither lose much of its 
 intensity, nor appreciably colour the white cotton. 
 
 2 — Immersed in diluted sulphuric acid (10%) at about 
 20 to 30" C. ; it should not at once turn green. 
 
 3— Exposed to the fumes of sulphurous acid under a glass 
 bell jar, it should not immediately turn green. This test 
 is made as follows: pour some bisulphite of soda in a 
 beaker. Hang the patterns to be tested in the beaker by 
 an iron wire placed on the top of the beaker. Cover the 
 whole by a large beaker or jar, or glass bell inverted and 
 leave a few hours. This test can also be made in a different 
 way, but not so effectively, by simply immersing the pattern 
 in diluted bisulphite of soda to which some hydrochloric 
 acid has been added. 
 
 4 — For hosiery yarn some chemists resort also to the 
 reduction test Avith stannous chloride and muriatic acid, 
 and immersing the pattern for some time. All these tests 
 must be made comparatively with a standard pattern 
 and it is judged by the way they both stand the different 
 agents. These tests must not be considered as of absolute 
 importance when judging of the goodness or badness of a 
 black, for yarn they have a relative value, for cotton 
 cloth they are even of less importance, since some very 
 good blacks, which are dyed largely and regularly, would 
 have to be rejected if one was to follow the results of the 
 above tests, while several years practical experience, and 
 the opinion of the consumers who regularly buy them, are 
 of more practical value than any tests that could be devised. 
 
 D 
 
84 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 It is worthy of notice that an aniline black, bottomed with 
 a diamine black, diazotized or not, will withstand greening 
 much better than a pure one. For such goods which have 
 to answer to the requirement of not greening, the bottoming 
 with a diamine black must be resorted to. 
 
Chapter III. 
 
 SUBSTANTIVE COLOURS. 
 
 The great importance acquired by the substantive or 
 •direct dyeing cotton dyestuffs makes it advisable to collect 
 them into a separate chapter. To describe all the dyestuffs 
 individually would be an impossibility. To fiicilitate 
 matters they will be classified under the special family 
 names under which they are brought out by the different 
 firms, and we will begin with the products of an English 
 firm. 
 
 Messrs. Read Holliday & Sons make a number of dyes 
 which they call the Titan colours. These are a small 
 but increasing range of very useful products. They are 
 ■dyed simply by boiling the goods in a bath containing com- 
 mon salt, the strength of the bath should bo about 3" to 4° 
 Twaddell, which will require about I lb. salt to the gallon, 
 the salt has some influence in keeping the shades level. 
 The goods are entered into the bath when the latter has a 
 temperature of about 150" F, the heat is then raised to the 
 boil and the dyeing continued from 45 minutes to one hour, 
 when the goods are taken out, rinsed, and then dried. The 
 dye baths are not completely exhausted, they may be kept 
 and used for subsequent lots of cotton, sufficient salt being 
 added to bring the strength of bath to S" or 4° Twaddell, and 
 about three-fourths of the original quantity of dyestuft'. 
 
 The Titan colours are characterised by being fast to acids 
 and possessing a fair degree of resistance to light ; alkalis 
 have little action on them, but they are not so fast to 
 soaping as benzopurpurine or the diamine reds. 
 
36 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 Titan Pink 3B dyes, using h per cent, of colour, bright 
 shades of pink, which are fairly fast to washing and acids, 
 and possess a fair degree of resistance to light. Although 
 o-ivine cfood results for pale shades, it does not work well 
 for producing deep ones. Titan pink 3B works equally 
 well on wool and silk ; for these fibres either the same bath 
 may be used as for cotton, or a little acetic acid may be 
 added. For mixed fabrics, half silk, half woollen, the same 
 bath may be used. It may be used in calico printing by 
 simply thickening with starch, printing on and steaming, no 
 mordant being required. 
 
 Titan Scarlet C dyes, with 3 per cent, of colour, 
 bright reds of about an equal intensity on all fibres ; the 
 shade approaching that of a turkey red. The colour 
 resists acids and soaping very well, but is not fast to 
 hght. 
 
 Titan Scarlet CB dyes cotton, using 3 per cent, of 
 dyestuff, bright scarlets of similar tone to those obtained 
 by benzopurpuring -iB ; the shades are fast to acids and 
 alkalis, not fast to light, and bleed slightly on soaping and 
 washin*''' : on silk similar results are obtained as on cotton ; 
 on wool the shades are not quite of so blueish a tone, for 
 that fibre this dyestuff is not suitable. 
 
 Titan Scarlet S dyes cotton bluish red shades using 
 from 2 to 3 per cent, of dyestuff, on wool and silk the same 
 shades are obtained, all three fibres dyeing equally well in 
 the same bath, so that for mixed wool-silk, silk-cotton, or 
 
 cotton-wool fiibrics this dyestuff may be used with good 
 results. The shades so obtained are fast to acids, and bleed 
 
 but little on soaping or washing. 
 
 Titan Scarlet D dyes blue shades of scarlet, very 
 
 bright and full, fast to acids, alkalis and soaping, whether 
 
 dyed on wool or cotton. 
 
 Titan Red 6B dyes wool and cotton equally well very 
 
 deep and bright shades of crimson, which are quite fast to 
 
 acids and alkaHs, and bleed but slightly on soaping. 
 
 Of the titan reds, the S, D and 6B are fastest to soaping^ 
 
 but all are equally fast to acids. 
 
TITAN DIRECT DYES. 37 
 
 Titan Yellow R dyes wool, silk and cotton from salt 
 baths fine orange yellow shades, using from 1 to 2 per cent, 
 of dyestiiff. The yellows so obtained are reddened on 
 treatment with either acids or alkalis, soaping causes a 
 slight bleeding, and if too strong, there is a slight tendency 
 to turn redder. The shades are very fast to light, especially 
 on wool. 
 
 Titan Yellow Y. — This dyestuff produces much 
 brighter and yellower shades than the last, and these have 
 the merit of being faster to soaping, which does not redden 
 them ; acids change the colour to an orange ; while alkalis 
 turn it scarlet ; when exposed to light there is some slight 
 fading. The two yellows just noticed dye similar shades 
 to the chrysamines. By chroming after dyeing with 
 fluoride of chrome the shades dyed with the titan j-ellows 
 R and Y, are changed to old gold tints and rendered faster to 
 soaping, etc. This property is of some value in wool dyeing. 
 
 Titan Yellow G has only made its appearance during 
 the last few months. Using 1 per cent, of dyestuff, it dyes 
 cotton and silk from salt baths pure greenish shades of 
 yellow, resembling those obtained from auramine or primu- 
 line. On wool a kind of buff colour is obtained. These 
 shades are quite fast to soaping, which does not alter the 
 tone in any way, but they are turned red by both acids and 
 alkalis. The shades are not fast to light. 
 
 Titan Brown is made in three shades, O, R and 
 Y. The titan brown O dyes, using 2 per cent, of colour, 
 orange-brown shades resembling those given by chrysoidine, 
 fairly fast to washing and acids; on cotton the shades are 
 fugitive to light ; on wool and silk they are much faster. 
 The titan browns R and Y, with 3 per cent, of dyestuff, 
 give bright, terra-cotta shades of red, fast to soaping, slightly 
 affected by alkalis and strong acids, but not altered by 
 diluted acids ; they are not fast to light on cotton, but on 
 wool and silk possess a fair amount of resistance to light, 
 although not quite fast. Titan brown Y, used in the 
 proportion of \ per cent., dyes a good salmon shade of a 
 brownish hue. 
 
38 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 Titan Gold d3'es gold shades of brown, and will be 
 found useful in producing what are known as old gold 
 tints. These shades are turned scarlet by acids and alkalis, 
 and bleed slightly on soaping. 
 
 Titan Blue B. This dyestuff dyes cotton from a salt 
 bath using 3 per cent, of dyestuff, rather bright shades of 
 violet blue which are turned dark blue by acids, bright red 
 by alkalis and are not fast either to soaping or light. 
 
 A much more useful dyestuff" is Titan Blue 3B which 
 dyes cotton, wool, and silk from a salt bath, the shades being 
 both deeper and redder in tone on the animal fibres than on 
 cotton, hence this colour is not available for use in dyeing 
 mixed fibres, unless some alkaline blue is used at the same 
 time, and the colour is raised by a souring after dyeing. 
 It gives on cotton, with 2 per cent of dyestuff, fine indigo 
 blue shades which are fast to soaping, acids have little 
 action, while alkalis slightly redden the tone ; it takes rank 
 with the fastest of the direct blues. In combination with 
 titan yellows it gives good greens, while with the titan 
 browns it gives fine dark browns. 
 
 Titan Blue R dyes on cotton navy blues, fast to 
 soaping, acids have little action, alkalis redden the shade. 
 On wool and silk reddish shades of blue are obtained, not 
 so fast to soaping as those of cotton. It works well in 
 combination with the j'ellows and browns of this series. 
 
 Titan Como S. — This dyestuff which has only recently 
 been placed on the market, d3-es unmordanted cotton, wool 
 and silk from salt baths, ver}' fine bright blues, resembling 
 those obtained with methylene blue, or a pure cotton blue, 
 using from 2 to 3 per cent, of dyestuff". The shades are turned 
 green or greenish yellow by acids, red by alkalis, soaping 
 causes them to bleed a little ; not fast to licfht. The shades 
 on silk are very bright and fairly fast. This dyestuff" may 
 be used in combination with direct yellows for producing 
 bright greens. The want of fastness to light will militate 
 against the use of the titan comos for certain kinds of work. 
 
 Titan Como R produces rather redder tints than the 
 last product, but which are very bright, and on silk v e 
 
TITAN DIRECT DYES. 39 
 
 fine. The shades are fast to acids and soaping, alkaHs turn 
 them reddish purple to brown. 
 
 Titan Como G dyes pale greenish blue tones which are 
 very bright and pure, and will be found serviceable in dyeing 
 sky blue tints. The shades resist acids and soaping, but 
 are turned brownish red by alkalis. 
 
 Light causes the shades dyed with the titan comos to 
 fade, the faded colour having a red tint. 
 
 Titan Navy B and Titan Navy R. — These dye, as 
 their name indicates, Nav}^ shades of blue of a very satis- 
 factory character, the R giving slightly redder shades than 
 the B brand. These shades are quite fast to soaping. 
 Acids and alkalis redden the tone a little, but practically 
 they are fast to those bodies. 
 
 The titan colours may be used mixed together to dye a 
 variety of useful shades of a compound character, thus a 
 mixture of two parts of titan yellow G and one part of titan 
 como S produces a very bright shade of grass green ; one 
 and a half parts of titan yellow G and half part of titan blue 
 3B gives a line leaf green, while a mixture of titan yellow Y 
 and titan blue R dyes a peacock green. A mixture of titan 
 brown O and titan blue R dyes seal brown, while a dark 
 Havana brown can be obtained from titan brown R and 
 titan blue R. A green slate is dyed with a mixture of titan 
 yellow Y and titan blue R. Drabs may be dyed with a 
 mixture of titan brown 0, titan yellow Y, and titan blue 3B, 
 and mixtures of titan scarlets and titan blue SB in 
 various proportions can be used to dye crimson to purple 
 shades. 
 
 By using acetate of ammonia, 10 per cent of the weight 
 of the wool, instead of salt, in wool dyeing, the titan colours 
 give excellent results, and moreover, they can then be 
 combined with acid dyes to form a variety of useful shades, 
 drabs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. Titan brown Y, titan red, 
 titan blue SB, and titan yellow Y give very good results 
 in this way. 
 
 For dyeing mixed wool and cotton goods the titan 
 colours may be used with advantage, using rather more salt 
 
40 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 in the bath than is required for cotton only. "While for 
 shoddy goods these colours may be used to dye heavy 
 shades. 
 
 THE DIAMINE COLOURS. 
 
 Messrs. Leopold Cassella & Co., of Frankfort-on-the- 
 Main, have brought out in the last few years a great variety 
 of substantive dyestuffs under the generic name of " Diamine 
 Colours," nearly all of which have been found very useful to 
 the dyeing industry. 
 
 They comprise reds, yellows, blues, browns, violets, 
 bronzes and blacks, and even a green which has been the 
 first substantive or direct azo green colouring matter dis- 
 covered. The diamine colours have been readily adopted 
 by cotton dyers owing to their valuable properties, and 
 especially on account of their comparatively low prices. 
 
 They are generally applied on cotton by means of 
 glauber salt, with or without the addition of soda or soap. 
 Common salt may be used instead of glauber salt. When 
 dyed on cotton they are fairly fast to soap and washing, 
 stand exposure to air and light perfectly well, while they 
 are generally less influenced by the action of acids than 
 other direct cotton dyes. 
 
 On wool and silk also some of these dyestufls have 
 found extensive application. 
 
 The diamine colours can be divided into two classes, 
 viz., those which can be diazotized and developed after 
 dyeing, and those which cannot be that way used, the latter 
 requiring only one bath for their application. 
 
 The first class of these dyestufts can also be employed 
 as single bath colours, but their technical importance 
 consists in the shades they produce on cotton when 
 diazotized and developed after dyeing. 
 
 The most important members of the second class or 
 single bath colours are diamine blues, diamine violet, 
 diamine green, diamine yellows, diamine orange, etc. and 
 the latest additions, diamine jet black, and oxy diamine 
 black N. 
 
DIAMINE DIEECT DYES. 41 
 
 The principal members of the first class are diamine 
 black KO, diamine black BO, diamine black BH, diamine 
 black HW, diamine blue black E, diamine brown V, cotton 
 browns A and N, etc. 
 
 The following scientific particulars relating to the 
 diamine colours will no doubt be found useful. 
 
 Diamine Black B 0, British Patent, No. 16,G99, 1887 ; is 
 the product from ethoxy benzidine diazotized and com- 
 bined with two molecules of G-amido naphthol sulphonic acid 
 in alkaline solution. It dyes cotton direct by the addition 
 of 5 per cent, of soda and 15 per cent, of glauber salt very 
 dark blackish blue shades, which topped with new methylene 
 blue yield imitations of dark indigo blue. Can be diazotized, 
 and yields, if developed with phenylene diamine, or 
 toluylene diamine a deep black ; with B-naphthol a blue 
 black ; with G-amido naphthol sulphonic acid, and amido- 
 diphenyl-amine, dark blues. 
 
 Diamine Black HO.— British Patent, No. 16,699. 1887. 
 Product of benzidine diazotized and combined with two 
 molecules amido naphthol sulphonic acid. In dyeing it is 
 used in the same way as the BO, but it yields redder 
 shades. 
 
 Diamine Black BH.— British Patent, No. 1,742, 1891. 
 Product of a combination of benzidine diazotized and 
 treated with one molecule G-amido naphthol sulphonic acid, 
 and one molecule amido naphthol disulphonic acid H. It is 
 used in the same way as the others, but it yields brighter 
 and bluer shades. 
 
 Diamine Black HW.— British Patent, No. 15,725, 1891. 
 Is made from benzidine diazotized, and combined with one 
 molecule P-nitro diazobenzol H acid, and one molecule 
 G-amido naphthol sulphonic acid. It is used same as 
 the dyes before mentioned, the shades obtained being of a 
 greener hue. 
 
 Diamine Blue Black E. — British Patent, No. 16,699, 
 1889. Is the product of ethoxy benzidine combined with 
 B-naphthol D-disulphonic acid, and G-amido naphthol sul- 
 phonic acid. Gives dark blues if dyed in a direct bath, and 
 
42 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 blue-blacks if diazotized and developed with B-naphthol, 
 whilst with amido-naphthol sulphonic acid it yields dark 
 blue shades. 
 
 Diamine Blue 3R, British Patent, No. 14,464, 1887. 
 From ethoxy benzidine and two molecules naphthol 
 sulphonic acid. 
 
 Diamine Blue BX, British Patent, No. 1,742, 1891. 
 From tolidin combined with A-naphtnol A-sulphonic acid 
 and amido naphthol disulphonic acid H ; gives blues on 
 cotton by dyeing with 20 per cent, glauber salt which 
 can be brightened by topping with new methylene blues, 
 violet, etc. 
 
 Diamine Blue 2B, British Patent, No. 1,742, 1891. From 
 benzidine and two molecules of amido naphthol disulphonic 
 acid, gives blue shades on cotton if dyed with 20 per cent, 
 glauber salt. If diazotized and developed with B-naphthol 
 it yields good greys. 
 
 Diamine Blue 8B— British Patent, No. 1,742, 1891. 
 From tolidine and two molecules of amido naphthol sulpho 
 acid H, is used like the 2B but gives bluer shades. 
 
 Diamine Blue GG— British Patent, No. 7,067, 1889. 
 From B-naphthylamine ether, combined with B-naphthol 
 and salt, and gives greenish blue shades, not diazotizable. 
 
 Diamine Sky Blue — British Patent, No. 1,742, 1891. 
 From dianisidin, combined with amido naphthol disulphonic 
 acid H, in an alkaline solution. It dyes a very fine bright 
 blue by addition of 20 per cent, glauber salt, or common 
 salt with or without soda. 
 
 Diamine Green B— British Patent, No. 15,725, 1891. 
 From benzidine, combined with H-acid, P-nitraniline and 
 phenol, dyes in boiling neutral bath with 20 per cent, 
 glauber salt or common salt, giving dark green shades. 
 Unions (fabrics composed of wool and cotton) are dyed in 
 a single bath with the addition of 20 per cent, glauber salt. 
 Half silk is dyed with soap and salt. 
 
 Diamine Bronze G— British Patent, No. 6,972, 1891, is 
 made from tolidine, combined with salicylic acid and H acid 
 ^I-phenylenediamine. It dj'es cotton, with 15 per cent. 
 
DIAMINE DIRECT DYES. 43 
 
 glauber salt, and 5 per cent, soda, an olive shade. When 
 dyeing half silk goods the silk is only slightly tinted. 
 
 Thioflavine S— British Patent, Xo. 14,884, 1888, is 
 dimethyl-dehydro-thiotoluidine disulphonate of soda. It 
 dyes cotton, with 15 per cent, glauber salt and 5 per cent, 
 soda, a bright yellow of a greenish hue. Unions (wool 
 and cotton fabrics) are dyed very evenly. 
 
 Diamine Gold.— British Patent, No. 15,346, 1890. 
 Xaphthalin-para-diamido-disulphonic acid combined with 
 two molecules of phenolethyl ether, dyes cotton Avith 15 per 
 cent, glauber salt, or common salt, and 5 per cent, of soda a 
 jDure bright 3"ellow of great fastness to light. "Wool is dyed in 
 an acid bath with 3 per cent, bisulphate of soda. It dyes 
 unions (wool and cotton fabrics), and half silks ver}' evenly. 
 
 Diamine Yellow N.— British Patent, Xo. 14,464 ; is 
 made from ethoxy benzidine combined with salicylic acid 
 and phenolethyl ether: it dyes cotton with 10 to 15 per cent 
 phosphate of soda and 2 to 3 per cent soap, giving good full 
 yellow shades. 
 
 Diamine Fast Yellow A dyes cotton with 20 to 30 
 per cent, of common salt a pure yellow shade. It is 
 especially suited for dyeing mixed goods, cotton and wool, 
 or cotton and silk, because it dyes the cotton, but leaves 
 the wool and silk undyed. 
 
 Diamine Orange G dyes cotton with 30 per cent, of 
 common salt a yellowish orange shade. 
 
 Diamine Orange D dyes in the same way as the G 
 brand onl}^ redder shades. 
 
 Diamine Cutch.— British Patent, Xo. 15,346, 1890 ; is 
 made from naphthaline, diamido disulphonic acid combined 
 Avith A-naphthylamine. It dyes cotton with 30 per cent, 
 glauber salt, and 5 per cent soda, dull violet shades. 
 Diazotized and then treated in a hot soda bath it gives fast 
 cutch shades. With fast blue developer it gives dark 
 browns, and with phenols copper brown colours, and with 
 B-naphthol a good blue black. 
 
 Diamine Broavn Y.— British Patent, Xo. 16,699, 1889 ; is 
 made from benzidine combined with G-amido naphthol 
 
44 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING, 
 
 disiilplionic acid and meta plienylenediamine. It dyes 
 cotton with 15 per cent, glauber salt, and 5 per cent, soda 
 in violet brown shades. When diazotized and developed 
 with phenyl enediamine it yields dark browns. 
 
 Cotton Brown X and Cotton Jjrown A, dye cotton 
 with 15 per cent glauber salt and 5 per cent, soda, bright 
 yellowish browns, the A shades being less bright than the 
 others. 
 
 Diamine Violet X.— British Patent, Xo. 1G,G99, 1889 ; 
 made from benzidine combined with two molecules of 
 G-amido naphthol sulphonic acid. 
 
 Diamine Fast Red F— British Patent, Xo. 16,699, 1889. 
 Made from benzidine combined with salicjdic acid and 
 G-amido naphthol sulphonic acid, and is found in acid solu- 
 tion. Dyes cotton Avith 15 per cent, glauber salt and 5 per 
 cent, soda a bright claret shade. On wool it is apiDlied 
 Avith 3 to 4 per cent, bisulphate of soda ; it can also be dyed 
 in a neutral bath, and the colour fixed after dyeing by treat- 
 ment with fluoride of chrome. The shades are thereby made 
 faster to milling. For dyeing mixed goods (wool and 
 cotton) it is also well suited as it dyes both fibres equally 
 well. 
 
 Diamine Scarlet B.— British Patent, Xo. 12,560, 1889. 
 Made from benzidine combined with B-naphthol, G-disulpho- 
 nic acid and phenolethyl ether. Dyes cotton with glauber 
 salt and soda fiery red shades, very fast to milling and 
 sulphuring. It dyes half wool and half silk very evenly. 
 
 Diamine Bed, British Patent, Xo. 14464, 1887. Made 
 from ethoxy benzidine combined with B-naphthylamine, 
 B-sulphonic acid F, and B-naphthylamine B-sulphonic acid 
 (Bronner). It dyes cotton with glauber salt and soda a bluish 
 red. The dyeing with diamine colours Avhich only require 
 a single bath is very simple, and is not different from the 
 method generally followed with other substantive dyestufts. 
 
 Diamine Jet Black 00 dyes bluish black to full black 
 .shades, which are scarcely affected by acids and alkalies, 
 and are fast to soaping and light. The blacks d3-ed with 
 this dyestuti' are very fine. 
 
DIAMINE DIRECT DYES. 45 
 
 OxY Diamine Black N dyes bluish black to black 
 sliades, similar to those produced with diamine jet black 
 00, if anything a little more solid in appearance ; equally 
 fast to acids, alkalies, soaping and light :— 
 
 Union Black dyes full black shades; its special feature 
 is that it dyes wool and cotton equally well, therefore it 
 may be employed in the dyeing of Union (mixed wool and 
 cotton) fabrics with advantage. The shades it gives are 
 quite fast to acids, alkalies and soaping. It requires from 
 8 to 9 per cent, of dyestuff to produce full shades, but, as 
 the dyebath is not exhausted, it may be retained for further 
 use and only about two-thirds of the original quantity 
 of dyestuff need be added for each subsequent lot of 
 
 goods. 
 
 Diamine Bordeaux B and Diamine Bordeaux S dye 
 very dark claret to Bordeaux red shades on cotton ; in both 
 cases acids turn the shades blue ; alkalies have no eftect ; 
 soapinf has no effect on the reds dyed with the S brand, 
 but causes a slight loss of colour in connection with the B. 
 brand. Diamine Bordeaux S may bo employed in the 
 dyeino" of wool from an acetic acid bath, and on that fibre it 
 o-ives full crimson red shades, Avhich are quite fast to 
 milling. 
 
 Cotton. — A bath, which is kept as a standing bath, is 
 
 prepared with the necessary amount of colouring matter, 
 
 2 to 5 per cent, soda, and 15 per cent, glauber salt, these 
 
 proportions being on the total weight of the cotton to 
 
 be dyed. Soap and phosphate of soda are also used 
 
 sometimes, but the most useful is simply glauber salt and 
 
 soda. For instance, by working on a large scale for 100 lbs, 
 
 of cotton yarn (10 bundles) in dye take 2 to 4 lbs. dyestuff 
 
 more or less according to shade required, 5 lbs. soda, and 
 
 15 to 20 lbs. glauber salt. The soda and glauber salt 
 
 had better be added in two portions. Enter the yarn into the 
 
 bath, which need not be cold, but may be lukewarm, or even 
 
 warm. Bring up to boil, work to shade, wash and dry. 
 
 For subsequent lots use only half of the above stated 
 
 quantities of soda and glauber salt, and dyestuff according 
 
46 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 to requirements, which can be done by two or three 
 additions and dyeing up to shade. "When dyeing cloth on 
 the jigger the same method is followed on the whole, with 
 the exception that less colouring matter will be necessary, 
 and also less soda and glauber salt may be used. 
 
 Silk is best dyed in a bath containing 10 per cent, of 
 glauber salt at the boil. 
 
 Wool can be dyed in the same way as silk, but the 
 results are in some cases not satisfactory. In fact, some of 
 the diamine colours are not as suitable for wool as they are 
 for cotton dyeing. By working mixed goods in an alkaline 
 bath the wool and silk are not dyed, whilst the cotton is, 
 consequently two coloured effects may be produced on such 
 fabrics by first dyeing with diamine colours, Avhich will dye 
 the cotton ; then the wool or silk are afterwards dyed in 
 another bath with an acid colour, for example, in the case of 
 black with naphthol black B, the diamine colour on the 
 cotton standing the acid Avell. The shades obtained on silk 
 with diamine black BO, RO, etc., are very fine and bright. 
 As to resistance to washing, acids, air and lisfht in creneral, 
 it can be said that the resistance to acids is o-ood, to IvAit 
 and washing very fair ; in some colours, such as diamine 
 fast red F and diamine violet, the fastness to lio-ht is 
 excellent. 
 
 The Diazotizing Diamine Colouks. — To produce blacks, 
 blues, etc., of very fair fastness to washing, the diazotizing 
 process is becoming of more and more importance, and 
 may be described here in full, and this description need 
 not be repeated Avhen describing other colours which can 
 also be applied by the same method. To dye cotton by this 
 method three operations are necessary. 1st, dyeing, 2nd, 
 •diazotizing, 3rd developing. The process is due to the 
 fact that bodies containing amido groups (XH2) in their 
 composition, when treated with nitrous acid are transformed 
 into diazo compounds, that is, bodies containing the azo 
 group — X = X — which is combined on the one hand with a 
 residue of the amido group, and on the other with chlorine; 
 hence the operation is called " diazotizing." 
 
DEVELOPING DIRECT DYES. 47 
 
 The diazo compounds are unstable bodies, but Avhen 
 brought into contact with other bodies, such as naphthol, 
 naphthylamines, etc., they will combine with them and form 
 other combinations, generally of a more intense shade than 
 the original colour. The new compound, being insoluble in 
 water, is consequently fixed on the fibre. This operation is 
 called " developing." 
 
 Dyeing. — This operation has already been described for 
 the ordinary class of diamine colours, and need not be 
 described here again. It need only be mentioned that, in 
 case of blacks, at least 5 per cent, of the dyestutf should be 
 used in preparing the first standing bath, while for sub- 
 sequent dips only about 4 per cent, need be added, as the 
 shade requires. Dyers will do well in dyeing with these 
 colours always to keep a swatch of this ground colour for 
 comparison for the subsequent operations, in order to 
 ensure regularity in the colours produced on the different 
 lots. 
 
 DiAZOTiziXG. — This operation requires some care and 
 also speed, or else no good results will be obtained, and it is 
 really the stumbling block through which many dyers, 
 especially at the introduction of the process, failed to succeed. 
 A bath is prepared with cold water containing 3 per cent, 
 nitrite of sodium (commercial crystals), and 10 per cent, 
 hydrochloric acid of the weight of cotton being dyed. 
 Wooden vats are preferable to metallic ones for this 
 operation. 
 
 The nitrite is previously dissolved in water and only 
 added to the bath just before it is to be used, then the 
 hydrochloric acid is poured in ; this is preferably diluted 
 with two or three times its volume of cold Avater. For 
 instance, for 10 bundles, or 100 lbs. of yarn, an ordinary vat 
 is prepared with cold water, then 3 lbs. of commercial sodium 
 nitrite • crystals (which contain about 98 per cent, of pure 
 nitrite) are dissolved in about four gallons of water, and 
 added when quite cold to the bath, then one gallon hj^dro- 
 chloric acid previously diluted with three gallons of cold 
 water is added and the bath is ready as soon as well mixed. 
 
48 DYEING AXD CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 In reality the proportion of acid required is the one to 
 hberate free nitrous acid from the nitrite, and some dyers 
 prefer to use less hydrochloric acid, and take only five pints 
 of the acid instead. But the proportions given by Messrs. 
 Cassella & Co. are 10 per cent, of the weight of the cotton, 
 and a little excess of acid will not be hurtful. In summer 
 time the bath must be kept cold (under 15° C.) by using ice. 
 
 The yarn after dyeing, is rinsed with cold water and then 
 very quickly immersed in the diazotizing bath, and ener- 
 getically turned for about tAvent}'' minutes. While this is 
 being done a fresh bath is got ready in order to wash 
 immediately after the diazotizing. The cotton must be well 
 and rapidly rinsed before passing into the developing bath. 
 For blacks which are to be developed with phenylene or 
 toluylene diamine, some dyers prefer not to wash at all after 
 the diazotizing bath, but for colours that have to be 
 developed with resorcine or B naphthol in an alkaline solu- 
 tion, the 5'arn must be well washed to be free from acids 
 which would otherwise precipitate the naphthol in the bath. 
 As the diazotizing bath is not exhausted, some prefer to use 
 it over and over again, by adding one half of the amount of 
 nitrite and acid previously employed. I do not think this 
 is a good policy, unless the quantity of free nitrous acid 
 is estimated in the bath, and kept constant by further 
 addition. A precaution to be taken during the course of 
 the process is not to expose the goods after diazotizing to 
 the direct action of the sun, as it has a great effect on the 
 diazotized product, which is itself so unstable. 
 
 Developing.— This must be done immediately, and 
 without loss of time after diazotizing and washing. It 
 takes about twenty minutes, and is carried on in a cold bath. 
 A number of developers may be used giving various shades 
 of blues and blacks, the method of preparing these developers 
 for use in the bath, and the quantities required being as 
 follows : — 
 
 Beta-naphthol, 14i lbs. beta-naphthol are mixed with 
 12 lbs. of caustic soda, 75° Tw, and then 20 gallons boiling 
 water are added. For a developing bath for 100 lbs. cotton 
 
DEVELOPEKS. 49 
 
 take 11 to Ih gallons of this solution. As the developing' 
 bath is not exhausted it can be preserved and used for 
 dyeing further lots of cotton, in which case a standard 
 bath is made as follows : for every 100 gallons of water used, 
 2 gallons of the B-naphthol solution are taken, as well as 
 1 gallon for every 100 lbs. of cotton entered into the 
 bath. 
 
 Naphthylamine ether. This product is supplied by 
 Messrs. Cassella & Co. in two forms, viz., paste and powder. 
 To prepare a bath Qh lbs. of the paste are simply mixed with 
 cold water and added to the developing bath, which may be 
 used only once, or if the bath is used for subsequent dips 
 then 10 lbs. are used for every 100 gallons of water, and 
 5 lbs. for each 100 lbs. of cotton. To prepare a developing 
 bath with the powder, 4| lbs. naphthylamine ether are 
 dissolved with the aid of 2| pints muriatic acid in 20 
 gallons of "boiling water. It is advisable to filter this 
 solution before use. For a single bath, 6| gallons of this 
 solution are needed. For a continuous bath 10 gallons for 
 every 100 gallons of water, and 5 gallons for each 100 lbs. of 
 cotton are required. 
 
 Phenylexediamixe.— This developer can be purchased 
 in the form of a liquid, which only requires to be mixed 
 with water and added to the bath. The quantities are the 
 same as for the beta-naphthol solution mentioned above. 
 
 The same firm also sells this product, or rather the 
 toluylenediamine in the form of a powder, being, in fact, the 
 hydrochloric acid salt under two brands, containing 65 and 
 93 per cent, respectively of the diamine. To prepare the 
 developing bath, there are required 13 lbs. of the 65 per 
 cent, or 9 lbs. of the 93 per cent, dissolved in 20 gallons of 
 boiling water. By this proportion a solution of the same 
 strength as the liquid product above named is obtained. 
 
 Resorcine— A solution is made by taking 11 lbs. 
 resorcine, mixing with 24 lbs. caustic soda, at 75"^ Tw. and 
 dissolving with 20 gallons boiling water. To prepare the 
 developing bath the same quantities of this solution are 
 used as for the naphthol solutions. 
 
50 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 Blue Developer AN. — For use, 27 lbs. are dissolved in 
 20 gallons water, after standing to allow tlie froth to 
 settle, the solution is ready. For the developing bath li 
 gallons are used for a single bath, or 1 gallon to 100 gallons 
 of water, and 1 gallon per 100 lbs. of cotton for continuous 
 baths. 
 
 Fast Blue Developer AD, also sold b}^ the same firm, 
 is a preparation which is used by adding 7i lbs. of this pro- 
 duct to 20 gallons of boiling water and 3i pints hydrochloric 
 acid ; from this solution the developing bath is made by 
 taking 4 gallons for a single bath, or 3 gallons for 100 
 gallons of water, and 3 gallons for 100 lbs. of cotton for a 
 continuous bath. 
 
 The shades which can be obtained with the diamine 
 blacks by this process are given in the following table : — 
 
 Light Navy Blue. — Dye with 3 per cent, diamine blue 
 black E ; develop with blue developer AN. 
 
 Dark Navy Blue. — Dye with 3 per cent, diamine blue 
 black E ; develop with fast blue developer AD. Instead of 
 the diamine blue black E the more recent product, diamine 
 black BH, may be used. 
 
 Deep Violet Blue. — Dye with 4 per cent, diamine 
 black BO ; develop with fast blue developer AD. 
 
 Blackish Blue. — Dye with 3 per cent, diamine black 
 RO ; develop with blue developer AN or naphtylamine 
 ether. 
 
 Blue Black. — Dye Avith 4 per cent, diamine black BO. 
 develop with beta naphthol. 
 
 Black (A). — Dye with 4| per cent, diamine black BO 
 or BH. Develop with phenylenediamine. It is advisable 
 to add I per cent, of soda ash, or, better still, acetate 
 of soda to the developing bath. The black obtained 
 has a slight brownish tint, to correct which about I per cent, 
 of diamine green is added to the dye-bath, or the black, 
 after developing, can be topped with new methylene blue, 
 which will make the black look brighter and fuller. 
 
 Black (B). — Dye 4| per cent, diamine black BO or BH ; 
 develop with 3 parts B-naphthol, and 1 part resorcine, a good 
 
DEVELOPING COLOURS 51 
 
 jet black being produced. By topping any ot these 
 blacks with an oxidation aniline black, a finer shade 
 and a fuller black is produced, and if the oxidation is 
 carefully conducted, the yarn is only moderately affected 
 in all cases, much less so than by the real oxidation aniline 
 black. 
 
 Black (C). — Dye 4^ per cent, diamine black RO. 
 Develop with blue developer AN, then top with a weak 
 anihne oxidation black, using a solution of 3i to 4^^ Tw. 
 
 Loose cotton or yarn may be dyed by this method. 
 
 On cotton cloth, if carefully worked, good colours can 
 be obtained; the operations are conducted on the jio-o-er, 
 care being taken that the processes of diazotizing and 
 developing are properly and rapidly conducted. 
 
 All the shades are fast to acids, soaping, alkalies, air, 
 and fairly fast to light also. 
 
 Of the other diazotizable colours must be mentioned, 
 the cotton browns A and N, and diamine browns V and M, 
 as well as diamine cutch. 
 
 The browns which can also be used as one bath colours, 
 and in this case give reddish shades of brown, are very 
 useful for combination colours, and can also be employed 
 for producing fast shades by the developing process, using 
 phenylenediamine as the developer, the colours so obtained 
 being fast to soaping, and fairly so to light, as well as to 
 acids and alkaUes. The same method is followed as 
 described for the blacks. The following particulars may, 
 however, be found useful. 
 
 Chestnut Brown.— Dye with 3 to 5 per cent, of cotton 
 brown A. As developer use phenylenediamine. 
 
 Walnut Brown.— Dye with 3 to 5 J per cent, of cotton 
 brown N, develop with phenylenediamine. 
 
 Deep Walnut Brown.— Dye with 3^ per cent, of cotton 
 brown N, 1;J per cent of diamine brown V, and i per cent, 
 of diamine black RO. Develop with phenylenediamine 
 liquid or powder. 
 
 Dark Broavn.— Dye with Ih per cent, diamine brown 
 V, using as developer phenylenediamine. Diamine brown 
 
52 DYEI^G AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 V, is very useful for cotton dyeing, not only as an ordinary 
 substantive colour, in which case it can be employed in 
 combination with other dyestuffs to form compound shades. 
 When diazotized either on cotton, cloth or yarn, it gives 
 very fine rich shades of brown, which, although only 
 moderately fast to light, are very useful for many purposes, 
 but should not be used for goods where great fastness to 
 light is required. 
 
 Diamine Cutch, which is a product of quite recent 
 introduction, gives by itself dull red violet shades, which are 
 useful for combination colours. Diazotized, it yields brown 
 shades that stand light remarkably well, especially if 
 developed with fast blue developer AD. A novel feature 
 connected with this diamine cutch is that when diazotized 
 it can without any further addition be treated in a warm soda 
 bath, when it yields cutch brown shades which are truly re- 
 markable for fastness to soda and Avashing. Diazotized and 
 developed with fast blue developer AD, it yields a fine brown 
 which stands light well; developed with phenol (carbolic acid) 
 it gives copper brown colours ; developed with beta naphthol 
 it gives crood bluish blacks. Diamine cutch, alonsf with 
 the other diamine browns, is a very strong competitor to 
 cutch. On the whole, the great utility of substantive and 
 diazotized colours is due to the fact that they leave the 
 cotton fibre quite soft in texture, and in many cases brilliant 
 shades are produced which could never be produced by the 
 mordant colours. 
 
 It may still be interesting to note that even diamine 
 blue 3B can be diazotized and developed withbeta-naphthol, 
 when nice gre3's are produced. Grey colours are also pro- 
 duced by dyeing a very light shade of a diamine black, and 
 diazotizing or not as the case may be. 
 
 The diamine colours have been found very useful for 
 d3-eing cotton goods (imitation of woollen goods) for gentle- 
 men's apparel. In printing also very nice effects can be 
 produced by the discharging process. 
 
 In the pattern cards are shown some of the most 
 important applications of these dyestuffs. 
 
DIAMINE DYES. 53 
 
 Before concluding, the latest additions to the already 
 long range of diamine colours, viz., diamine jet black (00 or 
 0000) and oxydiamine black N, must be mentioned. 
 
 They stand light remarkably well, especially diamine 
 jet black 00, oxydiamine black N not standing light as well, 
 but yielding fuller shades. 
 
 Both are useful products, and will for some purposes 
 prove very strong competitors to logwood, if they can be 
 sold at sufficiently low prices. Both dyestuffs give full black 
 shades, which are improved by topping with blue methylene 
 blue. They are both dyed with 2 to 5 per cent, soda and 15 
 per cent, glauber salt, taking 5 per cent, of the dyestuff to 
 give full blacks for the tirst lot, less being required in 
 followinj? lots of cotton. 
 
PYETNCJ AND CALICO PRINTING 57 
 
 No. 1.— Fluorescent No. TV 3 '^ /,, 
 
 „ ±— „ „ II 2 -/„ 
 
 8. — Electrine 3 *^,„ 
 
 „ 4. — Fluorescent No. 1 2 *■';,, 
 
 „ 5.- „ „ III 2 -U 
 
 All five shades d5-ed as follcws : — 
 
 Silk in boiled off liquor and dyed at the boil. 
 
 The dve-bath is kept at first slightly alkaline 
 with ammonia; after dyeing for some time,, the bath 
 is gradually acidulated, first with acetic acid, and then 
 with sulphuric acid. After rinsing, the silk is brightened 
 in a warm acetic acid bath, rinsed and dried. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Read Holliday & Sons, Limited, Huddersfield. 
 
58 DVKING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. 1.— 3 °/^ Mikado Orange R. R. R. 0., dyed Avith 
 acetic acid and glaiiber salt ; or, dye in a bath 
 with ^-Ib. to 1-lb. acetic acid to ten gallons of 
 water, start lukewarm, finish boiling. Acid should 
 be added gradually to ensure evenness. 
 
 No. 2. — 5 *^'/^ Mikado Golden Yellow 8 G., best d3'ed in 
 boiled off liquors broken with sulphuric acid. 
 
 No. n. — h ''Vo Alkali Blue G B., dyed in neutral lather, 
 about li-oz. of Marseilles Soap per ten gallons 
 of water, start lukewarm, finish boiling in half- 
 hour. Brighten in hot bath slightly soured with 
 sulphuric acid, rinse or dry ; or, it can be dyed 
 like wool, in alkaline bath and raised with acid. 
 
 No. 4. — 3 '■'/„ Chrysophenine G., d3*ed in sour bath, with 
 or without boiled otf liquor, 
 
 Xo. 5. — 3 *^/o Hessian Purple N. extra, dye boiling 
 
 with 
 
 o ''/o Phosphate of Soda 
 
 o ° \^ Soap 
 AVash out and brighten Avith acetic acid, and 
 Avash, 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A, Leonhardt & Co., Milhlheim-on-Main. 
 
1 
 
 g 
 
 3 
 
DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 63 
 
 HALF-SILKS. 
 
 No. 1. — For 10-lbs. goods : — 
 
 30 to 35 gallons of water 
 4-ozs. Soft or Marseilles Soap 
 f-lb. to 1-lb. Phosphate of Soda 
 5i-ozs. (about 3^t ^^/o) Benzopurpurine 4 B 
 
 Enter handwarm, then treat for one hour boiling. 
 
 No. 2. — Dye method, as above. 
 
 4-ozs, Chrysophenine G = 2| "/<5 to weight of 
 goods. 
 
 No. 3, — As above, with 
 
 oi-ozs (about 3 i*^/o) Hessian Purple N. extra. 
 
 After dyeing and rinsing, if necessary, goods can be 
 shaded with basic dyestuiis in fresh bath. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhardt & Co., MUhlheim-on-Main. 
 
G4 DYEING AND CALICO I'KlNTlNf;. 
 
 HALF-SILKS. 
 
 No. 1. — For 10-lbs. <_roods : 
 
 oO to 35 gallons of Avater 
 
 1-lb. common salt 
 
 4-ozs. Mikado Golden Yellow 4 G 
 
 Enter boiling, and d3'e up to shade ; work tive 
 minutes, then add 8-ozs. acetic acid, 50 ^ I r^; 
 work one hour at the boil, brighten cold with 
 acetic acid, rinse and finish. 
 
 ^'o. 2.— Treat goods (100 -lbs.) for 2i hours at temperature 
 of 50*^ to 60"" in bath containing 5-lbs. tannic 
 acid, lift, then pass quarter-hour through cold 
 solution of tartar emetic of 2 to 4 parts to 1000 
 of water ; rinse and dye in fresh bath with 2i-lbs. 
 Cresyl Blue B.B.S., under addition of S-ozs. acetic 
 acid to every ten gallons of dye-bath. Enter 
 handwarm, add dyestuff solution gradually, and 
 bring up temperature to 50"^ — 60*-' Brighten 
 cold with acetic acid, rinse and dry. 
 
 Xo. 3,— Dyed with 3 '^'/\, Mikado Orange R.O. Same 
 as Xo. 1. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhardt ik, Co., Miihlheim-on-Main. 
 
DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 68 
 
 HALF-SILKS. 
 No. 1.— 8 % Mikado Orange, R. R. R. 0. 
 10 % Common Salt. 
 5 ^ Acetic Acid. 
 
 See page 64, No. 1. 
 No 2.— 41 % Blue 9992, mordanted with Tannic 
 Acid and Tartar Emetic, dyed with dyestuff, 
 and 1-oz. Acetic Acid to every 10 gallon bath. 
 See page 64, No. 2. 
 No. 3.-3 % Mikado Golden Yellow 8 G. 
 
 See page 64, No. 1. 
 No. 4.-3 % Pyronine G. 
 
 Same as o. 2 above. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhardt & Co., Mllhlheim-on-Main. 
 
69 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 HALF-SILKS. 
 
 Xo. 1. — Goods mordanted with Tannic Acid and Tartar 
 Emetic. Dyed with 3 % Acridin Orange R 
 extra, same as pattern card, page 64, No. 2, 
 with exception that only 1-oz, Acetic Acid to 
 every 10 gallon bath is added, 
 
 Xo, 2.— o % Capri Blue G. O. X., goods mordanted 
 with Tannic Acid and Tartar Emetic. 
 See page 64, No. 2. 
 
 Xo. 3.— 4 A % mkado Yellow. 
 
 Same as Xo. 1, page 64. 
 
 Xo. 4.— I % Acridine Scarlet 3 R, mordanted with 
 Tannic Acid and Tartar Emetic. 
 
 See page 64, Xo. 2. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhardt & Co., Miihlheim-on-Main. 
 
DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 74 
 
 PRINTING ON SILK. 
 
 No. 1. — 80 grs. Cochineal substitute, dissolved in 
 80 CO. Hot Water, then added 
 823 „ (xum Water, then solution of 
 40 grs. Tartaric Acid in 
 40 .. Water. 
 40 ., Glycerine. 
 
 Print, dr}', steam, etc. 
 No. 2. — Glacier Blue on silk, dye in a soap bath 
 
 slightly acidulated. 
 No. 3. — Rhodamine G on silk, dyed with bath acidu- 
 lated with Sulphuric Acid, 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Society for Chemical Industry in J>asle. 
 
75 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. L— Patent Blue N U '^/^ 
 
 (Thmber's Salt 10 ^/., 
 
 Sulplmiic Acid 2 A ^,>, 
 
 No. 2. — Alizarine Eed I. W. S. powder. 4 "/.^ 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 2 "/^ 
 
 Glauber's Salt 20 ^'/^ 
 
 Add Alum 10 % 
 
 The method of dyeing is as follows : — 
 The bath is made with the d3'estuff and glauber's 
 salt, and the goods are worked for i hour at the 
 boil, then the acid is added and the workins: con- 
 tinned for another -h hour, then the alum is added 
 and the dyeing continued for 1 hour longer. 
 
 No. 8.— Patent Pluc Y.V. S 2 ^\,, 
 
 Glauber's Salt 10 ^7,^ 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 3 ^'/^ 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 
 Farbwerke vorm Meister, Lucius iV- Phuentxg 
 
 Hochst-on-Main, 
 
DYEING AND CALICO TRINTING. 81 
 
 WOOLLEN CLOTH. 
 
 No. 1.— Cliromotrop 2R ii y 
 
 Glauber's Salt lo °/ 
 
 /o 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 4 y 
 
 /o 
 
 No. 2.— Chromotrop S ii y 
 
 Patent Blue Y ii °/ 
 
 - /o 
 
 Acid Violet 5BF l y 
 
 /o 
 
 Glauber's Salt 25 °/ 
 
 /o 
 
 Hydrochloric Acid 4 y 
 
 /o 
 
 After boiling for f hour add 
 Bichromate of Potash 2 y 
 
 /o 
 
 No. 3.— Patent Blue V 2 7 
 
 /o 
 
 Glauber's Salt 10 % 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 3 % 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 
 Farbwerke vorm. Meister, Lucius t^t Pruning, 
 
 Hochst-on-Main. 
 
82 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. 1. — Rhodonine extra 1 % 
 
 Acetic Acid 10 % 
 
 Heat gently. 
 
 No. 2. — Chromotrop S 5 % 
 
 Glauber's Salt 20 % 
 
 Hydrochloric Acid 4 % 
 
 After boiling for | hour add 
 
 Bichromate of Potash 3 % 
 
 No. 3.— Keton Blue B. solution 4 % 
 
 Glauber's Salt 10 % 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 5 % 
 
 Heat gently. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 
 Farbwerke vorm. Meister, Lucius & Bruning, 
 
 Hochst-on-Main. 
 
DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 87 
 
 No. 1.— Keton Blue G. -solution 4 ^/<, 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 5 ^/^ 
 
 No. 2. — Acid Rosamine A 2| ^/^ 
 
 Phosphate of Soda 10 ^/^ 
 
 boil 1 hour, then treat in fresh 
 
 bath of Sulphuric Acid 4 °l^ 
 
 No. 3.— Chromotrop S 1| ^/^ 
 
 Patent Blue V 2 ^/^ 
 
 Azo Yellow Cone f % 
 
 Glauber's Salt 25 *^'/^ 
 
 Hydrochloric Acid 4 ^^/^ 
 
 After boiling for | hour add 
 
 Bichromate of Potash 2 '^/^ 
 
 No. 4.— Patent Green 2 '^/^ 
 
 Glauber's Salt 10 ^/^ 
 
 Sulphuric Acid o '^/^ 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 
 Faubwerke vorm. Meister, Lucius & Bruning, 
 
 Hochst-on-Main. 
 
88 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 HALF-^yOOLS, 
 
 dyed in slightly Alkaline bath, with the addition of 
 Glauber's salt. 
 
 10 lbs. of goods to 25 gallons of Water, with addition 
 of f lb. Borax, 4 lbs. Glauber's Salt ; goods entered at 
 122^ F., brought up to 158° F., then to 204^' F., and 
 kept at this temperature for h hour. 
 
 No. 1.— 4 ^7^ Navy Blue 10,201 
 No. 2.— 3f ^U Yellow 10,204 
 
 The finishings of No. 1 and No. 2 should be neutral, 
 or slightly sour with Acetic Acid. 
 
 No. 3. — 4 °j',^ Benzopurpurine 4B. 
 
 The finishing of this colour to be made neutral, or 
 preferably slightly Alkaline. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhakdt & Co., Milhlheim-on-Main. 
 
DYEING AND CALICO I'lUNTING. 93 
 
 HALF-WOOLS. 
 
 Dyed as on previous page. 
 
 ^o. l.—U ^'/o Claret 10,200. 
 
 Finishing in neutral, or slightly Alkaline 
 bath. 
 
 No. 2.-32 ""/o Orange 10,203. 
 
 Finishing in neutral bath, or slightly soured 
 with Acetic Acid. 
 
 No. 3.— Brown 10,206. 
 
 Finishing in neutral bath, or slightly soured 
 with Acetic Acid. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhardt & Co., Miihlheim-on-Main. 
 
94 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 HALF-WOOLS. 
 
 Dyed as on page 88. 
 
 No. 1.— Light Blue 10,202. 
 
 After dyeing, wash and pass through cold, slightly 
 acidulated bath, made up with 2 parts Sulphuric Acid 
 to 1,000 parts of water, wash and finish. 
 
 No. 2.—U ^/o Purple 10,199. 
 
 Finishing neutral, or slightly Alkaline. 
 
 Xo. 3.— 6i Brown 10,205. 
 
 Finishing neutral, or slightly sour, with Acetic Acid. 
 
 No. 4.-3 "'/" Yellow 10,198. 
 
 Finishing neutral, or slightly Alkaline. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 A. Leonhaedt & Co., Muhlheim-on-Main. 
 
DYEINr; AND CALICO PRINTING. 99 
 
 No. 1.— Acid Violet GBN on wool 
 
 Dye in bath containing 5 '7.5 Sulphuric Acid and 
 10 ^/o Glauber's Salt. Start at SO*-" C, bring up to boil, 
 and boil 15 to 20 minutes. 
 
 No. 2. — Olive on wool 
 70 parts Orange N. 
 20 „ Wool Green S. 
 10 „ Acid Violet GBN. 
 
 Dye in bath containing 5 ^^/^ Sulphuric Acid, 10 '^/^ 
 Glauber's Salt, dyestuff's according to shade in above 
 proportion to each other. 
 
 No. 3. — Victoria Blue R. on wool 
 
 Dye in neutral bath without any addition ; add 
 dyestuft' solution gradually ; start lukewarm, bring up to 
 boil. At this temperature the colour becomes developed. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Society for Chemical Industry in Basle. 
 
100 DVEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. 1. — 47 i parts Wool Green S. 
 
 47^ „ Acid Violet 6BN. 
 5 „ Orange R. 
 Use sufficient dyestuffs in the proportions given to 
 produce the desired shade. 
 
 No. 2.— Wool Green S. 
 
 No. 8.— Acid Violet 7B. 
 
 No. 4. — Anthracene Red 
 
 Dye in bath Avith 5 ^/^ Sulphuric Acid and 10 ^T 
 Glauber's Salt. Start at .30—40 C. bring up to boil, 
 and boil from 15 to 20 minutes. 
 
 Specimens supplied b}" 
 Society for Chemical Industry in Basle. 
 

DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 105 
 
 ^o. 1.— 11 % Diamine Sky Blue 
 5 % Soda 
 15 % Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 2.-2 % Diamine Orange G. 
 20 % Common Salt. 
 
 No. 2.— 11 % Diamine Blue 3B. 
 5 % Soda 
 15 % Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 4.— IJ; % Diamine Scarlet B. 
 8 7o Turkey Red Oil 
 30 % Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens supplied b}- 
 Leopold Cassella & Co., Frankfort-on-Main. 
 
106 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. 1. — 1^ ''/^ Diamine Fast Yellow A. 
 20 y Common Salt. 
 
 /o 
 
 No. 2.-2 7 Diamine Black B. H. 
 
 /o 
 
 5 % Soda 
 15 % Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 3. — If % Diamine Bordeaux B. 
 5 % Soda 
 15 % Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 4.-8 % Diamine Green B. 
 20 % Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Leopold Cassella & Co., Frankfort-on-Main, 
 
UVEING AND CALiCU PKlMlNCi. Ill 
 
 No. 1.— 1 ^/,^ Cotton Brown A. 
 5 °;'(, Soda 
 15 '^/o Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 2.— 11 ^/o diamine Brown M., 
 5 '^1^ Soda 
 15 '^'/^ Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 3.— li '^/o Diamine Brown Y., 
 5 ^/^ Soda 
 15 '^Z,, Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 4.— 1^ ^/^ Cotton Brown N. 
 5 ^7o Soda 
 15 ^/^^ Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Leopold Cassella & Co., Frankfort-on-Main. 
 
112 DYEING AND CALICO I'UINTING. 
 
 No. 1.— 2i ^/o Diamine Jet Black 00. 
 2 ^/^ Turkey Red Oil 
 20 "/o Glaubers Salt. 
 
 No. 2.— 2i "^/^ Diamine Blue B 
 5 ^la Soda 
 15 "^/^ Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 3.-11 ^Y^ Diamine Blue 3R. 
 5 '■'/o Soda 
 15 ^7^ Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. i.—lh ^U Diamine Violet N. 
 5 "^Vo Soda 
 15 '''/o Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Leopold Cassella & Co., Frankfort- on-Main. 
 
DYEING AND CALICO riUNTlNG. 117 
 
 No. 1.— If ""/^ Diamine Blue GG. 
 5 °/„ Soda 
 15 '^Vo Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 2.-2 "^Z,^ Diamine Blue Black E. 
 5 ""/^ Soda 
 1.5 ^/o Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 3.— 1?7 '^/o Diamine Black RO. 
 5 ^/o Soda 
 15 ^/,, Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 4.— 11 ^7o Thioflavine S. 
 3 ^/o Soda 
 15 ^7,, Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Leopold Cassella & Co , Frankfort-on-Main. 
 
11^ Di^ElNG AND CAHCU PKINTING. 
 
 No. 1.— 2| ^7o Diamine Black BO. 
 5 ^/o Soda 
 15 ^U Glauber's Salt. 
 No. 2.— 1^ ^% Diamine Red NO. 
 5 ""1^ Soda 
 15 ^/,, Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 3.— If ^'/,3 Diamine Blue 2B. 
 5 ""/g Soda 
 15 ^-'/o Glauber's Salt. 
 
 No. 4.— 0-S ^/„ Diamine Yellow N. 
 3 "-'/o Soap 
 15 "/^^ Bhosphate of Soda. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Leopold Cassella & Co., Frankfort-on-Main. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^M 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^H 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^B 
 
 
 
 
 4- 
 
 
 
DYEINO AND CALTCO PRINTING. 123 
 
 No. 1. — 11 y Diamine ({old 
 
 -) 7 Soda 
 
 /o 
 
 15 7 Glauber's Salt. 
 
 /o 
 
 No. 2. — 1 7 Diamine Bronze G. 
 
 /o 
 
 5 7 Soda 
 
 /o 
 
 lo 7 Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Xo. 3.— 1| % Diamine Fast Red F. 
 o 7 Soda 
 15 7 Glauber's Salt. 
 
 /o 
 
 Xo. 1— li % Diamine Black H\V. 
 5 7 Soda 
 
 /o 
 
 15 7 GLiuber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 Leopold Cassella &;, Co., Frankiort-on-Main. 
 
124 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. 1. — Direct Grey ^R. on Cotton. 
 
 No. 2. — Direct Brown Y. on Cotton. 
 
 No. 3. — Direct Grey B. on Cotton. 
 
 No. 4. — Direct Blue B. on Cotton. 
 
 All dyed with 20 '^V,, Glauber's Salt. 
 
 Specimens .supplied by 
 Society of Ciiemicat, Industry in Basle. 
 
DYEIXG AND CALICO PRINTING. 12f) 
 
 Xo. 1.— 30 grs. Azo Acid Violet 4R. 
 
 300 „ British Gum 
 
 650 „ Water, boil and add 
 
 20 „ Oxalic Acid 
 
 After printing on cblored wool, steam 1 hour without 
 
 pressure, wash and dr}-. 
 
 Xo. 2. — 30 grs. Azo Fuchsine G 
 
 300 „ British Gum 
 
 650 „ Water, boil and add 
 
 20 „ Oxalic Acid 
 
 After printing on cblored wool, steam 1 hour without 
 
 pressure, wash and dry. 
 
 X"o. 3. — 30 grs. Croceine Scarlet lOB. 
 300 „ British Gum 
 
 650 „ Water, boil and add 
 
 20 „ Oxalic Acid 
 
 Steam 1 hour without pressure, wash and dry. 
 
 Specimens supplied by the 
 
 Farbenfabriken vorm. Friedr. Bayer & Co., 
 
 Elberfeld. 
 
130 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 PRINTED STEAM COLOURS. GROUND 
 PADDED WITH 
 
 No. 1. — 4 grs. Chloramine Yellow 
 20 „ Phosphate of Soda 
 20 Litres Water ; dry. 
 
 No, 2. — 4 ofrs. Brilliant Geramine B. 
 20 „ Common Salt 
 20 Litres Water; dry 
 
 No. 3.— 20 grs. Celestine Blue B powder, 
 dissolved in 
 200 grs. Water 
 
 720 „ Acetic-Starch-Tragacanth 
 thickening 
 60 „ Acetate of Chrome 32° Tw. 
 Print on oiled cloth, steam 1 hour without pressure, 
 then pass through chalk bath and soap for 20 minutes 
 at 89'-' F., wash and dry. 
 
 Specimens supplied by the 
 
 Farbenfabriken vorm. Friedh. Bayer & Co., 
 
 Elberfeld. 
 

 •r f* 
 
 
 
 V^^% 
 
DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 135 
 
 No. 1.— lOOgrs. Alizarine Purpurine paste 
 820 „ Acetic-starch thickening 
 80 „ Acetate of Chrome 32° Tw. 
 Print on unoiled cloth, steam 1 hour at h atmosphere 
 pressure, pass through chalk bath, soap twenty 
 minutes at 89"^ F, wash and dry. 
 
 No, 2. — 28 grs. Turquoise Blue dissolved in 
 
 265 „ Water and 
 
 70 „ Acetic Acid, add 
 
 600 „ Gum Water 
 
 22 „ Tannic Acid dissolved in 
 
 23 „ Acetic Acid 
 
 Print on oiled cotton, steam 1 hour without pressure, 
 fix in tartar emetic bath, soap, wash and dry. 
 
 No, 3.— 300 grs. Brilliant Chrome Red paste 
 620 „ Acetic-Starch-Tragacanth 
 Thickening: 
 80 „ Acetate of Chrome 32" Tw. 
 Steam 1 hour without pressure, then pass through chalk 
 bath, soap 20 minutes at 89° F, wash and dry. 
 
 Specimens supplied by 
 
 Fakbenfabriken vorm. Friedr. Bayer & Co,, 
 
 Elberfeld. 
 
136 DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING. 
 
 No. 1. — 60 grs. Alizarine Cyanine Black G. 
 526 „ Acetic-Starch-Tragacanth 
 Thickenins^. 
 10 „ Acetate of Chrome 32^ Tw. 
 ■i „ Acetate of Lime 
 400 „ Gum Water 
 Print on oiled cloth, steam 1 hour at h atmosphere 
 pressure, pass through chalk bath, soaj) 20 minutes 
 at 89*^ F., wash and dry. 
 
 No. 2. — 60 grs. Brilliant Alizarine Blue G. 
 904 „ Acetic-Starch-Tragacanth 
 
 Thickenins: 
 36 „ Acetate of Chrome, 32° Tw. 
 Print on oiled cloth, steam 1 hour at h atmosphere 
 pressure, then pass through chalk bath, soap 
 20 minutes at 89^ F., without chloring. 
 
 No. 3. — 60 grs. Brilliant Alizarine Blue R. 
 904 „ Acetic-Tragacanth-Flour 
 Thickening 
 36 „ Acetate of Chrome 32° Tw. 
 Print on oiled cloth, steam 1 hour at ^ atmosphere 
 pressure, then pass into chalk bath, soap for 
 20 minutes at 89° F., without chloring. 
 
 Specimens supplied b}' 
 Faebenfabriken voi-m. Friedr. Bayer & Co., 
 
 Elberfeld. 
 
I 
 
 L 
 
 3 
 
ACTIEN-GESELL8CHAFT 
 
 FUR 
 
 ANILIN - FABRIKATION 
 Berlii^, SO 
 
 (The Berlin Aniline Dye Manufacturing Co., Limited.) 
 
 ALL VARIETIES OF 
 
 ANILINE COLOURS, . . 
 NAPHTHOL COLOURS, 
 SUBSTANTIVE COLOURS, 
 ETC. 
 
 ANILINE SALTS AND OILS, TOLUIDINE, 
 
 NITROBENZOLE, PARANITRANILINE, BENZIDINE, 
 
 DIANISIDINE, 
 
 AND OTHER CHEMICAL PRODUCTS. 
 
 Agents for Great Britain and Ireland : 
 
 HOUSTON & LAURISCH, 14, Charlotte Street, MANCHESTER. 
 
 R. W. GREEFF & CO., 29, Mincing Lane, LONDON, E.C. 
 
 JAMES MILLER, SON & CO., 79, West Nile Street, GLASGOW. 
 
 Agents for U.S. of America and Canada : 
 
 NEW YORK AND BOSTON DYEWOOD COMPANY, 
 
 NEW YORK. BOSTON. PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 1 
 
ALFRED FISCHESSEE & C'^ 
 
 Lutterbacli pres Mulhouse, 
 
 (ALSACE). 
 
 INIANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Colouring Fjatter^^ \ Gheigical?. 
 
 ANILINE DYES 
 
 DYEING AND PRINTING ^FOR COTTON, WOOL &c. 
 
 specialities : 
 
 ALSATIAN GREY, DIRECT YELLOW and ORANGE 
 FOR COTTON, 
 
 FAST YELLOW FOR WOOL, 
 
 ANIL BLUE, GALLEINE, CERULEINE, SOLID GREEN, 
 
 ANTHRACENE BROWN. 
 
 FBEFAHED C0L0I7BS AlTD I^OHDAITTS FOB 
 DYEING AND CALICO PBINTIITG. 
 
 Noirs Reduits (Steam Blacks-, Blues, Browns, Chocolates, 
 Greys, Olives, etc. 
 
 COLOT7I13 FOE DISCHAHGES AND EESISTS O: 
 INDIGO AND ANILINE BLACK GSOUND. 
 
 DYES SOLUBLE IN FATTY SUBSTANCES 
 
 Turkey Red Oil, 
 
 Bisulphite and Acetate of Chrome, Sulphide of Copper, 
 
 Hydrate of Alumina. 
 
 OILS FOR FINISHING AND SOFTENING. 
 
ANILINE DYE WORKS. 
 
 TRADE ) ^Mh^ ( MARK 
 
 FARBWERK MUHLHEIM 
 
 (Vorm. A. LEONHARDT & Co.) 
 
 MuHLHEiM -on-Main, 
 
 Near FRANKFORT-ON-MAIN, 
 
 OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Substantive Colours for Cotton. 
 
 Colours for Wool, fast to milling'. 
 
 Colours for Half-Wool (one bath). 
 Colours for Cotton, fast to washing. 
 
 Colours for Wool and Cotton, fast to light. 
 
 Fast Colours for Silks. 
 Specialities for Cotton Printing 
 
 PATENTED AND LICENSED SPECIALITIES; 
 
 STILBENE, BENZO, CONGO and MIKADO 
 DYESTUFFS. 
 
 AZINE GREEN, ACRIDINE ORANGE and RED. 
 
 PYRONINE, CAPRI-BLUE and GREEN. 
 
 CRESYL-BLUE and CRESYL - FAST - VIOLET. 
 
 New Printing Black, Blue and Brown. 
 
FISCHER (ft HU MOLD, 
 
 MILAN, Italy, 
 
 anil CHcal MMieis. ^ 
 
 IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 
 
 -^ ^{>ecialities : -^^ 
 
 PREPABED COLORS (Lakes, &c.). 
 MORDANTS & CHEMICALS 
 
 FOR 
 
 Dyeing, Printing, Finishing, Paper 
 Making, and Paper Staining. 
 
 Discharge Colors for Cahco Printing. 
 
(PATENTED) 
 The principal advantages of this new product are : 
 
 Purity of Shade. — In which respect it surpasses Logwood 
 Extract, Hematine or Chip Logwood. 
 
 Solubility. — It is perfectly soluble in cold water, dissolves 
 instantly in hot water, and being free from resinous matter, 
 affords a practical substitute for Logwood, avoiding the 
 labor, time and expense required by Logwood in chips. 
 
 Stability. — It is not affected by heat or cold, and can be 
 used with exactness. Great heat, such as hot pressing, 
 etc., does not brown the goods dyed with it. 
 
 Cheapness. — Being a dry powder it costs little for freight, 
 and occupies small space in storing. 
 
 Uses. — It may be employed in wool dyeing as a self color or 
 in combinations, in place of Logwood wherever this dyestuff 
 is used, with a clirome and tartar preparation, by following 
 practically the same recipes, but adding to the dyebath i-lb. 
 of Acetic Acid for every 4-lbs. of Hemolin used. 
 
 MANUFACTURED BY 
 
 Will, J. MATHESOK & Co,, Ltd, 
 
 178, FRONT STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
 Branch Houses carrying stock: 
 
 Boston, 492 to 496, Atlantic Avenue. 
 Philadelphia, 140, South Delaware Avenue. 
 Providence, 15, South Water Street. 
 Montreal, P.Q., 423 to 425, St. Paul Street. 
 
 WORKS : Long Island City, Port of New York. 
 
IN BASLE. 
 
 Works and Head Office in BASLE (Switzerland). 
 
 MAN U FACTU RERS 01" 
 
 AND OTHER 
 
 CHEIVIICAL PRODUCTS. 
 
 "patentees of 
 
 AURAMINES, VICTORIA BLUES, NIGHT BLUE, 
 
 RHODAMINES, 
 
 ACID VIOLETS AND ALKALINE VIOLET, 
 
 VIOLET CRYSTALS 5 B O, ETHYL PURPLE, 
 
 TARTRAZINE, ETC. 
 
 General Bcjeuts : 
 For ENGLAND and IRELAND- 
 GEORGE ELWEN. 47. Faulkner Street, MANCHESTER 
 
 Telegraphic Address: — "ELWEN," Manchester. 
 
 For SCOTLAND- 
 ARTHUR A. HINSHAW, 11, Bothwell Street. GLASGOW 
 
 Telegraphic Address :—" HINSHAW/' Glasgow, 
 
L. DURAND, HUGUENIN & CO., 
 
 Bale (Suisse), 
 ST. PONS (pres LYON), HUNINGUE (Alsace). 
 
 ANILINE OIL. 
 
 CHEMICAL 
 
 ANILINE DYES. 
 
 PRODUCTS. 
 
 NEW PATENTED POLYAZO DIRECT COLOURS. 
 
 AZO PURPUllINES, AZO ORANGE, MEKONG YELLOW, AZO GRENAT, 
 AZO PARMES, METAZURINE BLUES, AZO GREY'S, AZO BLACKS. 
 
 SPECIALITIES 
 
 FOR PRINTING. 
 
 GALLOCYANINES 
 
 
 MUSCARINE 
 
 BASLE-BLUE 
 
 
 ALSACE BLUES 
 
 INDOPHENOL 
 
 5<i 
 
 MADRAS BLUE 
 
 GALLAZINES 
 
 < 
 
 BLACK CARMINES 
 
 GALLANILIC INDIGO J 
 
 ALIZARINE BLUES 
 
 FAST MYRTLE 
 
 ALIZARINE BROWNS 
 
 (Nitro30 Resorcine Green) 
 
 ALIZARINE YELLOW 
 
 GALLEINE 
 
 CHROME YELLOW 
 
 CERULEINES 
 
 CHROME ORANGE 
 
 GIRO FLEE (Heliotrope) 
 
 FAST PINK 
 
 INDIGO BLUES 
 
 PRIMROSE CARMINE 
 
 FAST GREEN, M 
 
 STEAM REDS 
 
 FAST GREY, M 
 
 PERSIAN PONCEAU 
 
 EOSINES, ERYTHROSINES, PHLOXINES, MAGDALA PINK, 
 
 AZOIC COLOURS, INDULINES (Purple, Grey Blues), MARTIUS YELLOW, 
 
 MAGENTA (free from Arsenic). 
 
 LAKES of all Shades for Reserve on Aniline Black. 
 
 „ for Discharge and Reserve on Indigo Blue. 
 
 8ULPH0RICINATES.-CHR0ME-M0RDANTS, etc. 
 
^' IMPROVED FIVE BOWL MANGLE. 
 
e: ST* a.:bi:^ishe:i> x845. 
 
 ARCHD- EDMESTON & SONS, 
 
 Salford, Manchester, England. 
 
 Telegrams ; " EDMESTON," Salford. Telephone No. 1595 (National); 
 
 Makers of all kinds of Machinery for 
 BLEACHERS, DYERS, CALICO PRATERS & FINISHERS, 
 
 « EDMESTON " Patent 
 
 CLOIH STRETCHING iClE 
 
 O'srex* 250 in tise* 
 
 INDISPENSABLE to Bleachers, Dyers, Calico Printers, and Finishers. 
 
 UNEQUALLED for STRETCHING all kinds of FINISHED 
 
 GOODS. 
 
 USED AS A FINISHING MACHINE, producing the most satisfactory 
 results in modifying vaiious Finishes. 
 
 On Finished Goods if our PATENT SUPPLE-FINISHING and 
 SELVAGE-SOFTENING APPARATUS IS USED. 
 
 THE BENTZ-EDMESTON PATENT 
 
 CONTINUOUS 
 
 SATURATING & STEAMING KIER, 
 
 ?rom 50 to 75 per cent. SAVING of COAL for BOILING. 
 
 GREATER FREEDOM from DAMAGES. 
 NO STAINS, and CLOTH STRONGER BY THIS SYSTEM. 
 
 ECONOMY in DRUGS and LABOUR. 
 Specially applicable for GOODS REQUIRING TO BE BLEACHED 
 
 OPEN. 
 
 Complete Plants supplied for Open Bleaching on this System. 
 2 
 
W. G. THOMPSON & Co., 
 
 (gnifine ©^e (JUanufac^ureret 
 
 5, Cooper Street, 
 
 TONGE, "^r^lLETON, MANCHESTER 
 
 MAGENTAS, BLUES, GREENS, VIOLETS, REDS, 
 ORANGES, YELLOWS, BROWNS, 
 
 AND ALL THE LATEST DISCOVERIES IN ANILINE, 
 RESORCINE and DIRECT DYES. 
 
 Specialities for Dyeing, Printing, 
 Paper Staining, &c. 
 
 saiv[t»i.e:s tested, Kg+^ 
 
 Price Lists, Samples, and Instructions on application. 
 
CO 
 
 b 
 O 
 
 =8 
 
 z 
 o 
 
 CO 
 Q. 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
 O 
 
]V(ATHER ^MTT, Ltd., 
 
 MECHANICAL, 
 
 Hydraulic and (Ellectrical (ElngiDcers, 
 
 London Office : 
 16, VICTORIA STREET, WESTMINSTER 
 
 MANCHESTER. 
 
 PATENTEES AND MAKERS OF 
 
 ALL THE LATEST AND MOST IMPROVED MACHINERY 
 
 FOR 
 
 Calico Printers, Bleachers, Dyers and Finishers. 
 
 MATHER'S PATENT "BLEACHING KIER." 
 Patent "Sample" Printing Machine. 
 " Laboratory " Printing Machine for testing samples of colors- 
 Patent "Duplex" Printing Machines to print both sides of the cloth. 
 
 Patent Open Soaping Machine with improved beaters. 
 
 LATEST IMPROVEMENTS IN CONTINUOUS STEAMING. 
 
 AGEING MACHINES FOR ANILINE COLOURS. 
 
 Improved Stentering Machines uith Patent '' Self -feeding" Clip Chain. 
 
 Patent Ironing Machine for Handkerchiefs and similar articles. 
 
 Special Mr.chinery for Bleaching, Dyeing, and Finishing Velvets, 
 Velveteens, Plushes, Cords, Moleskins, &c. 
 
 Patent Dyeing Apparatus for Cotton and Wool in the raw state and for Wool 
 
 in combed tops. 
 
 Electrical Eogii^eerii>o yepartii^ei^t. .K^>. 
 
 Sole Makers of the "EDISON-HOPKINSON " DYI7AMO, 
 
 Patentees and Sole Makers of the "MANCHESTER" DYNAMO. 
 
 Alternate Current Dynamos a. Speciality. 
 
 Complete installations for Electric Lighting, including Steam Boilers, Engines, 
 
 Dynamos, Fittings of the most improved design and efficiency. 
 
 Electric Railway Plant. Electric Tramway Plant. 
 
 Dynamos for the Eefinement of Metals. 
 
 Electro-Plating Plant. Electric Cranes. 
 
 Improved P;ant and Process (Patented) for the Ptirification of Trade 
 
 E fluents • 
 Plant and Process (Patented) for Softening and Purifying Hard "Water. 
 
 Improved Valves and Taps for Steam, "Water, Gas, &c. 
 
 Friction Clutches and Shaft Couplings. Pistons and Air Pumps. 
 
 Buckets. "Weldless Steel Piston Coils. 
 
LEOPOLD CASSELLA & CO., 
 
 Frankfort-on-the-Maine, 
 
 GERMAKY. 
 
 BRANCH : KiX^ 
 
 MANUFACTURE LYONNAISE DE MATIERES COLORANTES, 
 
 LYONS, FRANCE. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF ALL SORTS OF 
 
 Proprietors of many valuable Patents, as, for instance, 
 for the 
 
 CELEBRATED DIAMINE COLOURS, ALL DYEING 
 COTTON DIRECT WITHOUT A MORDANT; 
 
 ALSO FOR 
 
 NAPHTHOL BLACKS, NAPHTYLAMINE BLACKS, 
 
 ANTHRACITE BLACKS, 
 
 NAPHTHOL GREEN, THIOFLAVINE, INDAZINE, 
 
 BRILLIANT SCARLETS, 
 
 BRILLANT CROCEINES, CYANOLE, FORMYL VIOLETS, 
 
 METAPHENYLENE BLUES, 
 
 NEW METHYLENE BLUES, &c., &c. 
 
 /iRanufacturers ot 
 ALL SORTS OF DYESTUFFS for WOOL, SILK, and COTTON DYEING 
 
 and PRINTING, 
 For LINEN, LEATHER, JUTE, STRAW, &c. 
 
 AGENTS IN GREAT BRITAIN:— 
 
 PRONK, DAVIS & Co., 9, Savage Gardens, Tower Hill, London, E C, 
 and 19, Temple Street, Birmingham. 
 
 SCHOELLES & BROWN, 32, Queen Street. Albert Square, Manchester. 
 
 S. A. LIEBERT & Co., 8-10, Prince's Square, Glasgow. 
 
 BEVER & WOLF, 46, Vicar Lane, Bradford, Yorks. 
 
 CHARLES FORTH & SON, New Basford, Nottingham. 
 
 Samples and Prices sent on application to any of these Firms. 
 
Price 15/- ; Demy 8vo., Cloth, 400 p.p., in one vol. 
 
 THE 
 
 Printing of Cotton Fabrics. 
 
 COMPRISING : 
 CALICO BLEACHING, PRINTING AND DYEING. 
 
 By Antonio Sansone. 
 
 With numerous Illustrations and Specimens of Calico Printing. 
 
 " The present volume ought to be especially welcome to those engaged in the 
 trade, as well as to students, the author having endeavoured to place before his readers 
 all the latest industrial methods and scientific discoveries, while, at the same time, only 
 such matter has been selected as might prove to be of practical utility. The 
 arrangement of the subject is excellent, the illustrations, which are. for the most part, 
 full page engravings or plates, are well executed, and the work is well got up. It 
 forms a valuable addition to our English technical literature, and is to be highly 
 recommended." — /oitrnal of the Society of Dyers and Coloiirists. 
 
 " We consider it simply our duty to recommend this book very strongly. Owners 
 of print-works, managers, colourists. and technological students will alike find it 
 useful." — Chemical Review. 
 
 "Our opinion of the book is most emphatically favourable. It is both instructive 
 and suggestive, and no person connected with the tinctorial arts will find his library 
 complete without it." — Chemical News. 
 
 Price 21/-, Cloth. A French translation of Sansone's Printing of 
 
 Cotton Fabrics. 
 
 L'IMPRESSION DES TiSSUS DE COTON ; Blanchimet— 
 
 Impression— Teinture. Par ANTONIO Sansone.— Traduit de 1' Anglais par J. A. 
 
 Montpelier, repetiteur de Technologic et de Chimie a 1' Ecole superieure de 
 
 Commerce de Paris. 
 
 MANCHESTER : 
 
 Abel Heywood & Son, 56 & 58, Oldham Street. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 SiMPKiN, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co. Ltd., Stationers' Hall Court. 
 
Price 2i/- ; Demy 8vo., Cloth, in Two Vols. 
 
 Uniform with the ^^ Printing of Cotton Fabrics," 
 
 THE 
 
 Dyeing and Bleaching 
 
 OF 
 
 WOOL, SILK, COTTON, FLAX, HEMP, 
 CHINA GRASS, ETC. 
 
 By Antonio Sansone. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS PLATES AND SPECIMENS. 
 
 "The work of Mr. Antonio Sansone on 'Dyeing' has made its appearance. 
 We consider it a most complete work. It consists of two volumes ; the first, after 
 going over the history of dyeing and of coal tar dyestutifs, the general characteristics of 
 fibres, and methods of testing dyestuffs, contains the practical processes of bleaching, 
 dyeing, and finishing textile materials in the loose condition. It is liberally illustrated 
 with sketches of the modern machinery and apparatus used in the dyeing industry. 
 The second volume, or Letter part, consists of a number of samples illustrating the 
 processes described in the first volume, furnished by various manufacturing firms. They 
 are not bound together, but loose in a case. The book is published by Messrs 
 Abel Heywood & Son, Manchester, England." — Textile Colorist, Philadelphia U.S. 
 
 " We are glad to be able to pronounce the present volume a most valuable 
 addition to our tinctorial literature. . . . Finally, we come to the explanation of 
 the beautiful dyed patterns, which are inclosed in a neatly got-up case, having the 
 appearance of a second volume. In this manner they will be much better preserved 
 than if pasted amongst the text. We heartily congraiulate Mr. Sansone on the value 
 and utility of the work which he has produced. ' — The Chemical Review. 
 
 " The volume before us is a worthy companion to the author's former work, ' The 
 
 Printing of Cotton Fabrics ' and gives a very complete and practical 
 
 view of dyeing as at present carried on in the leading seats of tinctorial industry. 
 
 We find an account of practical processes as applied to cotton, linen 
 
 jute, wool, and silk Concerning jute, the author states that though 
 
 the basic aniline dyes take easily on this fibre without any mordant, owing to the 
 tannin naturally present they fade very readily. We are very glad to find that the author 
 
 decidedly condemns the weighing of silks as a fraud The last 
 
 portion of the book discusses new colouring-matters and a variety of miscellaneous 
 matter. The illustrations of this book are particularly excellent and instructive. There 
 are forty-five plates showing the most improved machinery used in bleaching and 
 dyeing. In the patterns illustrating different colours we notice a decided improve- 
 ment. Not only are they beautifully got up, but instead of being pasted in amon-r the 
 text, where they get soiled, they are placed in a case, forming in fact a second vofume. 
 Mr. Sansone deserves the thanks of all persons connected with the trade for thi.s 
 important addition to our tinctorial literatuie, and the publishers, Messrs. Heywood 
 and Son, deserve our congratulations on the getting up of the volume." — Chemical 
 News. 
 
 MANCHESTER : 
 
 Abel Heywood & Son, 56 & 58, Oldham Street. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 SiMPKiN, Marshall, Ha.milton, Kent & Co. Ltd., Stationers' Hall Court. 
 
ABEL HEYWOOD & SON'S TECHNICAL WORKS. 
 
 Price 3s. 6d , doth. 
 THE COTTON FIBRE, ITS STRUCTURE, &c. : a Treatise 
 
 Descriptive of the different Varieties of Cotton and the Distinctive Features in the 
 Structure of their Filaments. With Diagrams of Various Fibres as shown by the 
 Microscope. Ey JIuGH MoNiE, junr. 
 
 Price Is. 
 
 HELPS TO TECHNICAL EXAMINATIONS IN THE COTTON 
 
 MANUFACTURE: Comprising over one hundred questions and answers, the 
 former taken from the City and Guilds' examination papers, the latter by R, 
 CUNLIFFE. 
 
 Second Edition, cloth, price 2s 
 
 THE COTTON MANUFACTURER'S ASSISTANT; or, the Theory 
 and Practice of the Whole Art. By C. D Foley. 
 
 Price 25s.. cloth. 
 
 A COMPLETE READY RECKONER FOR COTTON WARPS, 
 
 showing the number of Hanks in Warps for any length, from I to 1,000 Vards ; 
 with Tables of the different Counts that are made, by which the Weight of any 
 description of Warp may be seen, from the Number of Hanks it contains, in lbs., 
 ozs., and drachms. By Samuel Towxsend 
 
 Price 5s , crown 8vo , half-bound, cloth sides. 
 
 THE CALCULATOR FOR THE METAL TRADES ; being a Series 
 
 of Comprehensive Tallies, showing at one view the value of any quantity of Goods 
 bought or sold by Weight, from lib. to 75 tons. By Gavin Wilson. 
 
 Thirtieth Thousand. Price 4s. 6d , cloth. 
 A CONVERSATION ON MINES BETWEEN A FATHER & SON. 
 
 By Willl\m Hoptox. (Edition in Welsh Language, 5s.) 
 Price 5s.. cloth. With Diagrams — 
 HANDRAILING ON THE BLOCK SYSTEM ; being a Simple 
 mechanical method of constructing a wreath from the plan of elevation of the stairs. 
 &c. By W. Twiss. 
 
 Price 2s , cloth. 
 THE MODERN PRACTICAL CONFECTIONER, for the Master, 
 Journeyman, Apprentice, Improver, or Amateur. The recipes are sound and 
 practical, the quantity of each ingredient is given, and the yield of the oven. 
 
 Price Is. 
 
 THE SHIRT ; its History, and How to Cut it. By W. J. Hurst. 
 
 Price 6d. 
 
 A MULTIPLICATION TABLE, extended to 100 times 112, with 
 
 Rules for its easy application to the Multiplication or Division of Long Numbers. 
 
 Price 2s. 6d. 
 THE ALPHABETICAL GUIDE TO MODERN DOUBLE-ENTRY 
 BOOK-KEEPING, with the Journal Balance Illustrated, Explained and Simplified 
 by the aid of a Double Column in the Ledger ; also Analysis Table marking the 
 influence of Returns on Profits. By J. J. Bkoadbridge, Editor. 
 
 Price 7s. 6d.. cloth, large octavo volume. Third Edition. Enlarged and Revised, 
 COTTON SPINNING AND WEAVING. A Practical and Theoretical 
 
 Treatise. By Herbert E. Walmsley. With numerous Diagrams and 
 
 Illustrations. 
 
 Price 2s. 6d., cloth, with over 60 Illustrations. 
 THE STUDENTS ASSISTANT TO PRACTICAL COTTON 
 
 SPINNING, MIXING, OPENING. SCUTCHING, CARDING, COMBING, 
 
 DRAWING, SLUBBING, &c., <S;c. By Thomas Brvers. 
 
Telegrams " AaRICOLA," Manchester. EstaTjlished 1852. 
 
 SIR JAMESIaRMER & SONS, 
 
 LIMITED, 
 
 Adelplii Iron VUTorks, SAUFORO, 
 
 MANCHESTER. 
 
 Makers of Special Machinery and Contractors for Complete 
 
 Plants, for 
 
 Bleachers. 
 
 Improved Gas Singeing Machines, Improved Kiers, Washing 
 Machines, Squeezers, Scutchers, 3 to 8 bowl Water Mangles, 
 Drying Machines, &c. 
 
 Dyers. 
 
 Jiggers, Padding Mangles, Improved Indigo Vats, Indigo Grinding 
 Mills, Continuous Grey and Black Dyeing Machines, Steam 
 Agers, Ageing Chambers, Dye Becks, Washing Machines, 
 Patent Open Washing Machines, &c. 
 
 Calico Printers. 
 
 Brush Canroys Single and Duplex Printing Machines, Colour 
 Pans. Patent Open Soaping and Washing Machines, Steaming 
 Chambers, Hot Flues, Chloring Ranges, &c. 
 
 Finishers, Stiffeners, etc. 
 
 Every description of Starch Mangles. Back Filhng Mangles, Drying 
 Machines, Drying Cylindeis Stentering Machines. Drying 
 Stoves, Damping Machines Stretching Machines, Beetling 
 Machines, Plaiting, Measuring, Creasing, Rolling and Lapping 
 Machines, &c. 
 
 Calenderers and Embossers. 
 
 Every description of Calenders from 3 to 10 bowls, for Calendering, 
 Friction, Chasing, Jacking, Chesting. Mangling. Pressing. &c. 
 
 Bookback Cloth Finishers. 
 
 Jiggers, Padding Machines, Starch Mangles, Special Friction 
 Calenders, 2 or 3 bowl Embossing Machines, Special 
 Damping Machines, &c. 
 
 Silk Finishers. 
 
 Silk Finishing Machines Gumming Machines, Silk Calenders and 
 Embossing Machines. Velvet Embossing Machines, &c. 
 
 Other Specialities. 
 
 Every Description of Machinery for Floor Cloth and Linoleum 
 
 Manufacturers ; including Mixing Mills. Heavy Calenders, 
 Surface Printing Machines, Coating or Trowelling Machines, 
 &c. 
 
 Machinery for Wire Weavers and Drawers, including Hand and 
 Power Wire Looms, Wire Blocks, Pointing Machines, 
 Testing Machines, &c. 
 
 Machinery for Copper. Brass, and Iron Tube Manufacturers, such 
 as Draw Benches of every strength, Boring Lathes, Roughing 
 Lathes, &c. 
 
 Patent Filtering and Settling Tanks for Waste Water from Bleach 
 Works, Dye Works, Print Works, &c. 
 
Cable and Telegraphic Address: "SAMOHT," MANCHESTER. 
 National Telephone, No. 1183. 
 
 GEO. THOMAS & CO., 
 
 72a, Deansgate, MANCHESTER. 
 
 (N.Ii. — Representatives in all Industrial "Centres in the World), 
 
 ENGINEERS, CONTRACTORS, and EXPORTERS 
 
 OK ALT, CLASSES OF 
 
 MACMIMERY 
 
 Spinning and Weaving Cotton, Wool, Worsted, Shoddy, 
 Flax, Hemp, Jute, Silk, Waste, &c. 
 
 BLEACHma, DYEING, PRINTING, FINISHING, 
 
 AND THEIR ACCESSORIES. 
 PLAIN AND ENGRAVED 
 
 Copper Rollers, Metals, Chemical Products. Dye Stuffs, Oils, &c. 
 
 Mill Furnishers. Mill Gearing, Shafting, &c., Steam Engines, Boilers, 
 
 Economisers, &c. Tools, Rolling Mills, Wood Working 
 
 Machinery, &c. 
 
 G. T. S: Co,, supply and contract for the fitting-iip and setting to work of any description 
 
 of Plant for 
 
 TEXTILE & ENGINEERING ESTABLISHMENTS 
 
 SPECIALITIES: 
 
 Patent "Lever " Pattern Cutting Machine, 
 
 as annexed illustration, from £5 to £10 
 
 Patent Universal Yarn Assorting Balance, 
 for indicating Counts of Yarn in small 
 lengths or bits of Cloth 
 
 Patent Fibre Testing Machine 
 
 Improved Patent Spindle Tachometer, for 
 shewing at a glance (without watch i 
 number of revolutions per minute, up 
 to 12,000 £3 5 
 
 Patent '• Friction " Oil Testers £27 10 
 
 Patent " Samoht " Self-Closing Tap 6/- 
 
 £1 
 £9 
 
 PLEASE WRITE FOR CIRCULARS. 
 
 Publishers of Treatise on the Finishing of White, Dyed, and Printed Cotton 
 Goods, £1 10 (Dcpierre), and other Works. 
 
IN PREPARATION, AND WILL BE READY SHORTLY, 
 VOLUME IL OF 
 
 SANSONE'S 
 RECENT PROGRESS 
 
 IN THE INDUSTRIES OF 
 
 Dyeing and Calico Printing. 
 
 THIS VOLUME WILL CONTAIN : 
 
 (i) Descriptions of the newest dyes for Cotton, Wool, and 
 Silk, their methods of use and properties, 
 
 (2) Machinery and Apparatus. — In which will be given 
 
 descriptions of all the modern improvements in 
 Bleaching, Dyeing, and Calico Printing Machines, 
 and an extensive series of illustrations. Modern 
 apparatus for use in the Laboratory will also be 
 described. 
 
 (3) The production of Azo-Colours direct on the fibre. — This 
 
 subject, which has now become of great importance in 
 textile colouring, will be exhaustively treated. 
 
 The volume will contain a very large and extensive series 
 of Dyed and Printed Patterns on Silk, Cotton, and Wool 
 Fabrics Yarns, produced by the aid of the newest Dye- 
 stuffs, showing the most modern processes in Dyeing Cotton, 
 Wool, and Silk, and in Printing CaUco and Wool. 
 
MUCKLOW & CO., 
 
 BURY, LANCASHIRE, 
 
 Importers of Dyewoods & Tannin Materials, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF DYEWOOD & TANNIN EXTRACTS. 
 
 SPECIAL QUALITIES FOR 
 
 Cotton, "Wool, and Silk Dyeing, Paper Staining and Calico Printing. 
 
 \V^ORKS : Elton Fold Works, Bury. 
 Hinds Works, Bury. 
 Albyn ^Vorks, Grlasgow. 
 
 OFFICES: 
 
 Head Office, Bury Tempest Chambers, Liverpool 
 
 33, Faulkner St.. Manchester. 93, Hope Street, Glasgow. 
 
 A.GE:if rrs s 
 
 HARTFORD, Conn., U.S.A., Beach & Co. 
 
 BOSTON, Mass., U-S A., Beach & Co. 
 
 TORONTO, Canada, Dominion Dyewood & Chemical Co. 
 
 CHRISTIANIA, Norway, F. Lokke. 
 
 TELEGRAPH : 
 'Mucklowr. Bury. ' 
 ' Mucklow, Manchester." 
 ' Mucklow, Liverpool." 
 ' Mucklow, Glasgow." 
 
 TELEPHONE : 
 Bury 40 
 
 Manchester 1602 
 Glasgow 3426 
 
READ, HOLLIMY & SONS, Ltd,, 
 
 The Largest Aniline and Coal Tar Color Manufacturers in 
 G-reat Britain, 
 
 ALL VARIETIES OF 
 
 Aniline & Daplitlialene Dyes 
 
 MAGENTAS, BROWNS, SCARLETS, YELLOWS, BLUES, GREENS, 
 VIOLETS, ORANGES, GHRYSOIDINES, SAFRANINES, &c. 
 
 Works : 
 
 HUDDERSFIELD, 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 <^<>5i^/r 
 
 AND 
 
 BROOKLYN, 
 
 U.S.A. 
 
 Established 1830. 
 
 Reduced Indigo. Patented. O. Wool Scarlets, Patented. 
 
 Acid Blacks for Wool. 
 
 Gambine Browns and Greens, Patented. 
 
 Aniline Blacks, Patented. 
 
 X L Red, Patented, and Archill Substitute. 
 
 Titan Colors, Patented. 
 
 Direct Dyeing on Cotton and Mixed Goods. 
 
 Aniline Oil and Salts. Toluidine 
 
 Pure Benzole, Toluole, and Solvent Naphtha 
 
 Neutral Vacance Soaps for Milling:, Silk & Cotton Dyeing, &c. 
 
 "Germol" Disinfectant. 
 
 Makers of Woodcock's Patent Hawking, Wringing, and Dyeing 
 
 Machines, Cotton Hank Dyeing and Washing Machines, 
 
 Filter Presses, &c. 
 
WHEATLEY, KIRK, PRICE & GOULTY, 
 
 Sole Agents 
 " RAYER &. LINCOLN" 
 
 COMBINED 
 
 Seaming, Stretching, 
 Trimming & Stamping 
 Machine, 
 
 For Calieo Printers, Dyers, etc- 
 
 This Machine, while 
 working at a rapid speed, 
 produces a perfect seam, 
 with the edges of the 
 fabric sewn, cut truly oflf 
 within a short distance of 
 the stitching, so that the 
 pieces joined together 
 pass through the printing 
 machine without diflQcul- 
 ty or loss of length. 
 
 Prices and full particulars on 
 application. 
 
 Albert Chambers, Albert Square 
 
 MANCHESTER. 
 
 IN PREPARATION, VOLUME III. OF 
 
 SANSONE'S 
 
 RECENT PROGRESS 
 
 IN THE INDUSTRIES OF 
 
 Dyeing and Calico Printing. 
 
 This volume, which will bring the work to a finish, 
 will contain chapters on Indigo Printing, Cop Dyeing, etc. 
 It will be illustrated by an extensive series of Dyed Cotton 
 Yarns, showing the application of modern Coal Tar Dyes in 
 Dyeing. 
 
Mors Concours, Membre du Jury, Paris, 1889. 
 
 ALL KINDS OF MACHINES FOR 
 
 BLEACHING, DYEING, 
 
 PRINTING & FINISHING, 
 
 XISSXJ3E1IS. 
 
 FERNAND DEHAITRE, 
 
 Engineering Works, 
 PARIS. 6 Rue d'Oran. PARIS. 
 
 MACHINERY AND APPARATUS 
 
 For Cop-Djeing. For Yarn-Dyeing. 
 
 Specialities in Calenders and iVIangfies. 
 
 MANUFACTURE AND REPAIRS OF 
 PAPER, COTTON AND WOOD HAIR CYLINDERS. 
 
 PRINTING MACHINES, 
 
 And a,ll Apparatus for CALICO PRINTING-. 
 
 Complete Installations of Works for Textile Industries. 
 
The GLOBE Eng^ineering Co., 
 
 Limited, 
 
 38 Victoria Buildingrs, 
 
 iVIANCHESTER, Eng^iand. 
 
 INLET 
 
 Engines, Boilers, 
 
 Heaters, 
 Circulators, 
 
 Averagers, &c. 
 
 The GLOBE 
 STEAM TRAP. 
 
 The best and simplest Trap 
 made. Large capacity. Low 
 cost. May be placed in any 
 situation. No danger of 
 freezing. Will elevate water 
 to a tank, if desired. 
 
 Write for Circulars. 
 
 D. Stewart & G^- be., 
 
 Ei^gii^eers ar^d Macl^ii^ists .)<^>o 
 
 TO 
 
 Bleachers, Dyers , 
 Calico Printers . . 
 
 AND 
 
 Turkey Red Dyers, 
 
 LONDON ROAD IRON WORKS, GLASGOW 
 
 7 
 
"^450 
 
 Title 
 
 
 4^41