dhp 9. li Hill Ctbrara
5^ortt| CTaroUna i&talr
This book was presented by
Agricultural Economics
SPECIAL COLLiCTIOKS
S455
M27
vU
This book must not be
taken from the Library
building.
25M JUNE 58 FORM 2
Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive
in 2010 witii funding from
NCSU Libraries
Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/ruraleconomyofw01mars
^cry. n. I v-^
.<U C^^i^'-^^'
-t ^''
RURAL ECONOMY
OP THE Henry C. Taylor.
WEST OF ENGLAND:
INCLUDING
MINUTES OF PRACTICE,
IN
THAT DEPARTMENT.
By Mr. MARSHALL.
THE SECOND EDITION.
WITH
MANY IMPROVEMENTS,
AND
CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS.
IN TWO VOLUMES,
VOL. I.
LONDON:
Frinted for G. and W. Nicol, Pill Mall; Lo>fGMAN, Hurst, Rkbs,
aad Orme, Piternoster Row; Cadell and Davies, Strand;
Lackington, Ai.LEN, and Co Finsbury Square;
J. Hatcuard, Piccadilly; and J. Haroinc,
St, James's Stree^
1805.
S. GouuW, Prmter. I-iUk Qo^cti Sti-^tt-
CONTENTS
OP
THE FIRST VOLUME.
INTRODUCTION.
On Surveying a Departmext.
By natural Districts, 2.
Not by Counties, 3.
The West of Exgland separated into Dis-
tricts, 5.
I. WEST DEVONSHIRE, 9.
I. Its NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS, 10.
Situation, Extent, Elevation, 11.
Surface, 12. Climature, 13.
Waters, 14. Soils, 15. Subsoils, 17.
Fossils, 19. Minerals, 20.
II. Its PRESENT State, as NATIONAL Domain, 21.
Political Divisions.
State of Society, 23.
Public Works, 29.
Present Products, 33.
Of its Waters, its Soils, its Substrata.
The Face of the Country, 39.
in. Its PRESENT State, as private Property, 41,
1. Possessory Right, or Landed Property.
Life Leasehold considered, 42.
2. Abstract Rights, 47.
Manorial Rights, Tithes, Poor's Race.
A 2 The
"!v Table of Contents
Thl rural economy of WEST DEVON, 5U
The Subjects of Rukal Economy defined.
I. Landed Estates, and their Management, 55.
The larger Properties of this District.
Laving <jut Estates, 5^.
Laying out Farms.
Laying out and erecting Farm.^teads, 58.
Materials of Buildings, 60.
Note on Blue Slates, 62.
Fences, and the Method of raising them, 65.
l^he Properties of Coppice Hedges, 72.
Disposal of Farms, 74.
Selling them for three Live?, 75.
Letting them for a Term, 78.
On letting Farms by Auction, 80.
Forms of Leases, 82.
A new Fonn introduced, 87.
Rent, and Time of Removal, 89.
II. Woodlands, and their Management, QO.
Species of Woodlands.
Propagation of Woods, 92.
Management of Woodlands, 94.
Management of Timber.
of Coppices, 96.
of Hedgcwood, 10 1.
Market for Bark.
A Remark on Tanning, 102.
III. AORTCrLTURE, 103.
1. Farms.
Their natural Characters.
Tlu- History of Farm Lands, 105.
Their present Application.
The Sizes of Famis.
General Obseuvations thereon, io6.
The Plans of P'arms, 108.
2. Farmers, io8.
The Scale of Occupiers.
Their Qualifications, 109.
Ca.pitah, Education, Sec.
OP THE First Volume. v
»
2- Workpeople, no.
Laborers ; their Character and Wages.
Servants; their Wages, &c. 112.
Apprentices, 113.
Remark on Parish Apprentices.
4. Beasts of Labor, 117.
Introductory Remarks.
On Pack Horses, 118.
On the Oxen of Devonshire, 119.
Cart Horses, and Hours of Work, 121.
5. Implements, 123.
XVaggon, Cornish Wain, &c.
Furniture of Pack Horses, 124.
Plow, Harrows, and Roller of Devon, 1 26,
The Drudge, or Team Rake, &c. 128.
The Yoke, of a valuable Construction.
Tools peculiar to the Country, 129.
6. The Weather, 131.
7. Plan of Management, 133.
Prefatory Remarks.
Objects of Husbandry, 135.
The Course of Practice, 136.
3. Management of Soils, 139.
The established Practice censured.
An interesting Incident noticed, 141.
Sodburning,or **Burnbeating," described, 142.
General Remarks thereon, 147.
9. Manures and their Management, 153.
Dung and Town Rubbish.
Sea Sand ; now declining in Use, 154.
Lime : the Species of Stone burnt, 1 56.
Lime Kilns of Devonshire.
Burning Stones with Faggots, N. 157.
Separating the Ashes, 158.
Making, &c. Lin)e Compost.
General Remarks, on Liming Land, 160.
10. Semination, 163.
11. Growing Crops, 164.
12. Harvesting, 165.
General Observations.
*' Hewing" Wheat described, 167.
Method of setting up Shucks, 169.
The Harvesting Holla, N.
A 3 '< Arrisli
vi Table of Conten'ts
" Atrish Mows" described, 170.
Turning Corn Swaths, 172.
Binding Corn Swaths, 173.
Carning Sheaves on horseback, 1 74.
*' Pitching" Corn Sheaves, 175.
The Forms of Stacks, 176.
Method of thatching Slacks, 177.
13. Management of hanested Crops, 178.
Housing Stacks, by Hand.
Thrashing Wheat, without bruising the Straw^
dt>cribed, 179.
Winnowing with the natural Wind, 182.
1^.. Markets, 183.
15. Wheat, and its Culture, 184.
Species, Succession, ice. &c.
A singular Seed Process described, 1 85.
With Observations thereon, 187.
Produce of Wheat, 188.
16. Barley, and its Culture, 189.
17. Oats, and their Culture, 190.
18. Turnep C.ihure, 191.
Ho": _- "oi yet introduced, 192.
Rcr::^-kz on the Devonshire Practice, 193.
19. Poiaioes, 195.
Their Hiaior\', in We>i Devon.
A valuable Particular of Practice, 196.
30. Cuhivated Herba-e, 198.
0.' lOn^: staiiduig, in this District.
Au Improvement suceested. 199.
Succes.-iiil Instances of Cultivation, wltho«t
C"r:i Crops,
ai. Grass Lands, and their Management, 2co.
The Species enumerated.
Water Meadows, 202.
Origin, Quantity, and Management.
The Eifect of Slate- rock Waters, 204.
Remarks thereon.
Hay Harvest described, 205.
Carrv mg Hav on horseback, 206.
Aftergrass: an Accuracy of Practice.
22. Orchards and Fruit Liquor, 208.
Ore bards.
Their History in West Devon.
OP THE First Volume. vii
The aggxegrate Quantity, 2io.
On the Age of Apple Trees, N.
The Species of Orchard Fruits, 2il.
Situations of Orchards, considered.
The Soils of Orchards, 212.
Raising and training Plants, 213.
Remarks on their Lowness.
Planting Orchards, 214.
Their After-management, 215.
On the Canker, in Orchard Trees, 216.
The Misletoe not known, here, 217.
Application of the Land, 218.
On Apples as Hog Food, N.
Fruit Liquor, 219.
The Place of Manufacture described, 220.
That of Buckland noticed, 221.
Fruit : its Species and Management, 222.
Breaking the Fruit, 223.
A new Horse Mill described, N. 224.
The Presses of Devon described, 225.
The Method of Pressing, 226.
The Must, or expressed Liquor, 227.
Fermenting ill understood.
Laying up fermented Liquor, 228,
Aggregate Quantity of Produce.
M^arkets for Sale Cider, and Prices.
General Remarks, on the Orchards, and
Fruit Liquor, of West Devonshire ; -
and on Cider as a Beverage of Farm
Workpeople, 229.
23. Horses, 234.
24. Cattle, 234.
The native Breed of Devonshire, 235.
Breeding of Cattle, 238.
Rearing, 239.
Fatting Cattle, 240..
Bleeding fat Cattle, 241.
25. Dairy Management, 243.
Calves ; fatting and rearing.
Note, on Busses, or Grass Calves.
Butter; its extraordinary Management, 244.
Method of Cbuting Cream.
A 4 M»<hod
viii Table of Contents
Method of making Butter, 245.
Remarks on these Practices.
Skim Cheese, 2.! 8.
A practical Remark thereon.
26. Swine, 2.19.
lined., and rearing.
Boiling Vegetables for Store Swine, 250.
A Species of pastilring Stock.
Fattening Swine, 250.
An cxtraordinarv' Practice described.
On boil nig Hog Food, 2.52.
27. Sheep, 252.
The Breed examined.
On propjgating fresh Breeds, 255.
Methods of Breeding.
Store Sheep, 258.
Excellency of the Shepherd's Dog.
On driving Sheep to cure the Blood, 260.
\ Shear without washing ! 261.
RemJ^rks on this Practice.
Fatting Shetp, 263.
28. Rabbit.., 264.
29. Poultry, 265.
' On promotilig the Fecundity of Fowls.
References to miscellaneous Minutes, 267.
II. The south HAMS of DEVONSHIRE, 269.
Introrluctory RcMnarks.
The District described.
Extent, Elevation, Surface, 271.
Water?, 272. Soils, 273. Subsoils, 275.
Townships, 275. Towns, 276.
Inland Navigati<Mis, Roads, 277.
Inclosures, 279. Hedgerows, 280.
Production':, 280. Appearance, 281.
An evil Etiect of Manufactures, 282.
The Agriculturr of the South Hams, 283.
Farms, Farmers, 284.
Beasts of Labor, Implements, 285.
Management of Farms.
Managi'ment ofvSoils, 286.
" lormenting" described, 287.
OP THE First Volume. ir
Manures, 288.
Whc .f, Turneps, Grass Land, 289.
Orchards of the South Hams, 290.
Cattle, 291. Sheep, 292.
Rrtiospective View of South Devon, 293.
Impkovements suggested, 295.
III. The mountain DISTRICTS, 304.
Pref a tory Re marks.
Excursion in Cornwall, 306»
Buckland to Bodmin.
The Cornish Wain described, 310,
Bodmin to Buckland, 312.
A '' Stream Work" noticed, 314,
CaUington to Launceston, N. 317.
General Remarks on Cernwall, 318.
Dartmcre Forest, or Chace, 320.
Situation, Extent, Elevation, 321.
Note on Brent Tor, 322.
Surface, 323. Waters, 324.
Soils, 324. Subsoils, 325.
Productions and Application.
The Right of Depasturing, 326.
Venvil defined, N.
Cattle, Sheep, 327.
Moorside Farmino;.
The present Value of Dartmore, 328.
Improvements proposed, 329.
Of the higher Lands, 330.
Of the lower Grounds, 336.
Inland Navigation suggested, 337.
I\^ NORTH DEVONSHIRE, 341.
Introductory Remarks.
An Excursion detailed.
Okehampton and its Environs, 343.
Okehampton to Torrington, 345.
General Remarks on this Passage, 352.
Launceston to Torrington, Note, 353.
Torrington and its Environs, 354.
Torrinsfton
Table or Contents.
Torrlngton to Biddeford, 355.
Biddeford and its Environs, 357.
General Remarks, 362.
Biddeford to Barnstaple, 363.
Barnstaple and its Environs, 367.
Edrnstaple to South Moulton, 368.
View from Kerscot Hill, N. 370.
South Moulton and its Environs, 373.
North Devon Breed of Cattle.
General Remarks, on North Devonshiiie, 375.
South Moulton to Chumlelgh, N. 376.
South Moulton to Dulverton, 376.
Dulverton and its Environs, 38c.
Dulverton to Tiverton, 382.
Bampton Lime Works, &c. 384.
Additioval Remarks on Nokth Dlvox, 3Sg^
ADVERTISEMENT.
Xo my valuable and lamented friend, the
late Sir Francis Drake, whose virtues were
best known to those who ^were most ac-
quainted with his private character, I am
chiefly indebted for the opportunity of form-
ing the Register, which is now under pub-
lication.
In the Summer of l/9l, I made my first
journey into the West of Devonshire, to
examine into the state of his Rural concerns,
in that part of the County ; and, in the
Autumn of the same year, returned, to en-
deavor to retrieve them from the discredit-
able state, in which I had found them. In
the succeeding Autumn, I made a third jour-
ney, to the same quarter ; and, in the Sum-
mer of 1794, I went over the whole of the
Drake
»i Advertisement.
Drake Estate, — now my Lord Heath*
field's, — ^lying in dilTerent parts of Devon-
shire.
It \sill perhaps be said, that the Valley
OF THE Tamer is too confined, and is of too
little importance as a District, to be suitable
for a principal station. Indeed, it is more
than probable, that had I chose?i my station,
k would not have been that which circum-
stances assigned rae.
But (thanks to the Disposer of Circum-
stances), — now, when I am acquainted with
the several Districts of this Department of
the Island, I am convinced, that there is no
other situation, which could have been made
equally favorable to my views, as that in
which I was placed, as it were, providen-
tially. There is no other individual station,
in which I could have commanded, so well,
the two Counties of Devon and Cornwall,
end at the same tune, tlie fertile District of
the South Hams, — " the Garden of Devon-
Advertisement. xiii
shire ;" — of which distinguished District the
Valle}- of the Tamer forms, in reaUty, a part.
Beside, in the Valley of the Tamer, and
on the magnificent Farm on which I resided,
— the very first in the Country, — I possessed
the most favorable opportunity, that either
circumstances or choice had to give, of study-
ing the Daxmonian practice, in all its
branches, and in its almost pristine purity *.
A FEW particulars of modern practice, that
have been recently introduced into this part
of the Island, especially into the South Hams,
have not deranged the long-established
SYSTEM OF DaNMONIAN HUSBANDRY; which
is Still firmly rooted, in these Western Dis-
tricts ;
♦ Danmonian, — an epithet derived from Danmonia,
or Damnoniaf an ancient name of part, or the whole,
of the Western Peninsula of Britain.
This name, being common to Devoqshire and Corn-
wall, is peculiarly applicable to the District of the
Station- j a? well as to South and North Devonshire,
Xiy AoVERTISEMENf.
tricts ; and remains as distinguishable from
the ordinary management of the body of the
Island, as if the Peninsula, they form, had
been recently attached to it.
Moreover, it will appear, in the follow-
ing pages, that, altho the Panmonian prac-
tice has many defects, it has likewise its ex-
cellencies, by which the British Husbandman
may greatly profit ; and very many peculia-
rities, bv which the mind of an attentive
reader will be enlarged, and its prejudices be
relaxed. I therefore consider it as one of
the most fortunate circumstances, which have
attended the execution of my undertaking,
that I was led to the pure fountain of this
distinguished practice.
London, May 1/1)0.
ADVERTISEMENT
TO THE
SEC ON D EDITION,
The first Edition of these Volumes was
written with less deliberation (owing to a
combination of circumstances) than any other
work I have published ; and a few errors,
none of them however of serious importance,
eluded my notice ; for want of that leisurely
and uninterrupted attention that is essential
to accuracy, in composing a work which
comprises such a multiplicity of topics, as
belong to a comprehensive Register of the
Rural Economy of a Country.
Bltt my information having been enlarged,
by the various journies I have occasionally
made through this Department of the King-
dom,
xvi Advertisement to second Edition.
dom, and the temporary residences that I
have annually enjoyed within it, since the
publication of the first Edition, as well as
sufficient leisure to revise, digest, and apply
to their appropriate uses, the materials thus
collected, I have been able, not only to make
several corrections and improvements of the
Register, or body of the work, but some
considerable additions to the Minutes.
London, June 1805.
THE
WEST OF ENGLAND.
INTRODUCTION,
This popular appellation is usually given to
the four most Western Counties ; namely,
Cornwall, DEVo^^ shire, Somersetshire,
and Dorsetshire. .
But, in examining a Country, like Eng-
land, with a view to the existing state of
its Agriculture, and the other branches of
its Rural Economy, the arbitrary hnes of
Counties are to be wholly disregarded. For
if any plan was observed in determining the
outlines of Provinces, in this Island, it cer-
tainly had no reference or alliance whatever
to Agriculture ; unless it were to divide, be-
tween opposing claimants, the natural Dis-
tricts, which require to be studied separately,
vol. i. b ' and
2 INTRODUCTION.
and entire. Xatural, not fortuitous lines, are
requisite to be traced ; Agricultural, not poli-
tical distinctions, are to be regarded.
A Natural District is marked by a uni-
formitv or similarity of soil and surface ;
\\ hether, bvi'iiu^uniformJtT, a marshy a "v'ale,
an extent of upland, a range of chalky heights,
or a stretch of barren mountains, be pro-
duced. And an agricultural District is
discriminated by a uniformity or similarity
of practice; whether it be characterised by
grazing, sheep farming, arable management,
or mixed cultivation ; or by the production
of some particular article, as dairy produce,
fruit hquor, Sec. &.c.
Now, it is evident, that the boundary iinea
of Comities pay no regard to the>e circum-
stances. On the contrary, u e frequently find
the most entire Districts, with respect to
Nature and Agriculture, severed by political
hnes of demarcation. The Midland Districts,
for instance, a whole \\ ith respect to soil,
surface, and established practice, is reduced
to. mere fragments, by the outlines of the
four Counties of Leicester, Warwick, Staf-
1
WEST OF ENGLAND. 3
ford, and Derby *. Again, the Fruit Liquor
District of the Wye and Severn includes parts
of the Counties of Hereford, Gloucester, and
Worcester f ; and the Dairy District of North
Wiltshire receives portions of the Counties
of Gloucester and Berks within its limits,
and extends its practice to the Eastern mar-
gin of Somersetshire J.
Hence, it may be truly said, to prosecute
an Agricultural Surv^ey, by Counties, is to set
at naught the distinctions of Nature, which
it is the intention of the Surveyor to examine
and describe ; and to separate into parts the
distinguished practices, which it is his busi-
ness to register entire.
Such a mode of procedure is an impro-
priety, not only in theory, but in practice.
It destroys that simplicity of execution,
and PERSPICUITY of arrangement, \\hich
alone can render an extensive undertaking
pleasurable to him who prosecutes it, and
profitable to the Public.
Another
♦ See RuR. Econ. of the Midland Counties.
t See Glo. Econ.
X See as before.
B 2
,4 INTRODL'CTIOxN.
AxoTHER practical objection, Avhich lies
against surveying by Counties, beside the re-
petitions or references it requires, is the un-
NECESSARY LABOR it incurs, and the super-
fluous VOLUMES to w hich it necessarily gives
,rise. For it is not the practice of every town-
,ship or farm, which can be registered, nor
that of every hundred or county, which /r-
quires it.
: It is the superior pn.vcTicp.h of oistin-
GuisHED NATURAL DISTRICTS, in didbrcnt and
DISTANT PARTS OF THE IsLAND (thuS SejmrU-
ting, and thereby showing in the most intcl-
hgible form, its more distinct practk^es),
and these only, that are necessary to he Jixed.;
— as a firm basis, on wincH to raise fu-
ture IMPROVEMENTS, AND STILL MORE K.\-
XIGHTENED PRACTICES.
The practice of the WEST of ENG-
LAND, — the subject of the present volumes,
— verifies the foregoing remarks, it is dis-
tinguished in a peculiar manner from that of
.the rest of the kingdom : and this peculiarity
extends, nqt only over the Counties of Corn-
wall and Devon, but reaches ^^•ilhin tho.^c
of Somerset and Dorset.
WEST OF ENGLAND. 5
Ax inconveniency, in registering this pe-
culiarly distinct practice, arises from there
being no leading District, near the center of
the extent of country over which it prevails,
wherein to study and record the radical prac-
tice, as well as the modern improvements
that have been introduced, with evers' ad-
vantage. That which I was led to, in the
mannei' already mentioned, is, in many points
of view, the best Station for the purpose.
But there being other Districts of greater
celebrity, and which stand forwarder in mo-
dern improvements (mostly copied, how'ever,
from the superior practices of the more cen-
tral parts of the Island, and which I have
already registered), I have made a point of
paying such attention to them, as their re-
spective merits appear to require.
The districts whicli are here to be
described are these :
Firsf, West Devonshire, (the District
of the Station) : including the A\'estern mar-
gin of Devonshire, and the Eastern parts of
Cornwall.
Second, The South Hams. A contiguous
District, which forms tlie Southern point of
Devonshire. Third,
6 INTRODUCTION.
Tliird, The Mountains of Cornwall and
Devonshire.
Fourth t The District of North Devon-
shire.
Fifth, The Vale of Exeter.
Sixth, The Dairy District, which in-
cludes parts of East Devonshire and West
Dorsetshire ; — and.
Seventh, The Vale of Taunton, in ^^'est
Somersetshire.
Together with travelling Notes in pass-
ing through the South-easter^' Parts of
Somersetshire.
1804. Since the pubhcation of the First
Edition of these volumes, I have had many
opportunities of re-examining the Agricul--
tural Department which they describe, and
of traversing its area, in almost every direc^
tion. The produce of these Excursions will
appear in this Edition ; — either progressively
as they occurred, in distinct Minutes ; or as
Notes attached to former Excursions.
WEST OF ENGLAND. 7
Refere^'ces to the Minutes : —
45. Across Dartmore, from Morton Hamp-
STEAD to West Devonshire.
47. Through Somersetshire, from Stour-
HEAD, by Castle Cary, Somerton, and
Langport, to Chard.
49. In the CENTRAL Parts of Devonshire,
from Exeter to Okehajjipton.
51. Along the Southern Coast of Devon-
shire.
55. In North Devonshire, from Ilfracoomh,
by Barnstaple, to Torrlngton.
57. Through South Somersetshire, from/Z-
minster, by Ilchester, Castle Cary, &c.
58. Through the same, by Creivherne and
Ilchester, to JFincaunton ; with ge-
neral Remarks on the Vale of II-
CHESTER.
(55. An Excursion in North Somersetshire:
also across the Sea Marshes ; and in
the Vale of Bridgewater, in the
cE^fTRAL Part of Somersetshire.
B 4
DISTRICT THE FIRST.
WEST DEVONSHIRE;
INCLUDING
THE EASTERN PARTS
OF [
CORNWALL.
Introductory View of this District.
Before we enter into a detail of the several
branches of the Rural Economy of the Dis-
trict of West Devonshire, &c. it will be re-
quisite to take a comprehensive view of the
District itself; and to endeavor to mark its
distinguishing characters :-^—
First, As a production of Nature.
Secondly, As part of the domain of the
realm.
Thirdly, As the property of individuals.
SECTION
10 DISTRICT.
SECTION THE FIRST.
NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS
or
WEST DEVONSHIRE, &c.
In taking a cursory vic\s' of the Naturai^
History of this District, I shall attend to
such particulars, only, as have an immediate
connection with Rural Economics; con-
formably with the plan which I have hitherto
found it requisite to pursue. ITiesc particu-
lars are,
I. Its situation in the Island.
II, Its extent,
III. Its elevation with respect to the sea,
IV. The conformation of its surface.
V. Its climarure as it atFects Agriculture,
VI. The waters which occupy its surface,
VII. Its prevailing soils.
VIII. The subsoils most prevalent.
IX. The useful fossils found in its sul>-=
strata.
X. The minerals it contains.
D. H. HILL LIBRARY
North Carolina State College
WEST DEVONSHIRE. i%
I. The SITUATION of this District is
within the South-western Umb of the Island,
which separates the two seas — the Irish and
the English Channels.
Its NATURAL BOUNDARIES are Dartmorc, an
extensive and elevated tract of mountains, on
the East ; Hinksdon *, and other mountains
of Cornwall, on the West ; with Plymouth
Sound, and the estuaries branching out of it,
on the South. The Northern boundary is
less evident. Brent Tor and the heights
around it may be said to separate this Dis-
trict from North Devonshire.
II. The EXTENT of this secluded tract
of country is not inconsiderable : It is about
twenty miles from North to South, and about
ten miles from East to West. But withir;
these limits some barren lands arc included.
III. Its ELEVATION above the sea U
less than the eye may estimate. The tide
flows
* HiNKSDoy. Thcnameof this mountain is explained
in different ways. Perhaps it is rooted in Hi7i (Celtic)
the Weather, and Don or Down, a Hill, or Height,
It is, tQ this day, the weather gauge of the country under
survey (see the Sect. Weather), the whole of which
it commands. The views from it are very extensive;
reaching nearly or quite from sea to sea j that to the South
being peculiarly grand.
12 DISTRICT.
flows to its center. Tlie vallies of course lie
low ; but many of the hills rise abruptly ;
and much of the cultivated* lands may be
deemed ///// ; all of them vpland. No part
of the District can be strictly called vale ; nor
is there any extent of flat meadows, or marsh
lands, within it ; though, here and there, a
narrow mep.doN^ y bottom of a valley or
*' coomb" is obsen-ablc*.
IV. The SURFACE ii. various in the ex-
treme : not only from the number, narrow-
ness, and depth of the larger vallies, whose
sides often rise steeply from the banks of the
streams that divide them ; but from the hills,
or wider spaces between those vallies, being
broken, in the manner peculiar to the South-
western extremity of the Island : a style of
surface which takes place at the ^^'estem ter-
mination of the chalk hills of Dorsetshire,
and continues to the i^ndsend-j-.
* Coomb — properly cooNf, — from Cxvm (Welsh and
Cornish) a Valley or Dell, a name thai is still prevalent
la these Western counties; and is more or less retained,
perhaps, wherever the Southern Celts gained a per-
njancnt footing in England.
t For itinerary remarks, on tlie surface of the District
now under notice, sec the following minutes, I, 2, 3»
WS* Hiantl 2i.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 43
V. The CLIMATUJIE of West Devon.
shire is particularly marked. The situation
of the District between t^o seas; its immc-
liiate exposure to the main o<'eaiK in the
ilirect passage of the South-west winds ; and
the elevated summits of the mountains,>vvhich
surround it, arresting the fleets of vapours as
thev arrive heavy laden from the Atlantic ; —
unite hi rendering this portion of the l.sland
liable to an excess of rain; this, to a cool-
,ne?s of climature, and a lateness of season.
Though situated in the most Southern climate
of the Island, its harvests are comparatively
late : but varv in a singular manner with the
se:ison.
In 1 7Q1 , VA heat crops ingeneral were green,
the first ui August, and hay harvest was, then,
barelv at its hcjpht. The tvventv fifth of Aii-
gust, corn hitrvcst was in forwardness, the
weather havintr recentlv been c!r\ and hot.
Nevertheless, at that time^ much corn still
remained green ; especially on the bkirts ot
the Cornish mountains, where wheat is not
unfrequently harvested after ^Michaelmas. In
a7Q2, barlev hardest did not close, even on
the comparatively forward lands of Buckland,
until the beginning of October : the season
wet. On the contrary, in 1^94, a very dry
season.
14 DISTRICT.
season, wheat harvest commenced the last
week in Julv.
Taking the par of years, we may fairly
place West Devonshire ten days or a fort-
night behind the Midland District, which lies
more than two degrees of latitude — namely,
about one hundred and fifty statute miles —
farther North. A proof that climate and cli-
vmtin^e have not an immediate connection*.
VI. WATERS. Tiiis District, notwith-
standing the steepness and elevation of its
surface, is singularly well watered. Every
description of water may be said to belong to
it, except the lake.
The SEA and its estuaries sever it to its
center. Its rivers are the Tartier, the Ihvei/,
and the Pli/rn : whose various brooks, ri^Ti-
lets, and rills, furrow the sides of almost
• The following memoranda will show tlic rnildiicsa of
Winter, in this South-western extreme of the Island.
In 1792, presently before Christmas, bees were in full
work — on the blossoms of the ivv. And frt>m that time
to the end of December, the large blue house fly was fre-
quently on the wing. The latter end of January, 1793*
>vas as mild as early Mav, in the Northern provinces.
The swallow and the house martin I have repeatedly
seen in November, and a few winters ago (1804) they
were observed, here, in December : the thrush may be
heard in full song, in every month of the year.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. i$
every slope ; frequently issuing from near the
summits of the hills.
But I have met with no instance of col-
lected waters, among the Western moun-
tains ; such as frequently occur in the North-
ern parts of the Island. Dosmary Pool, a
small lakelet, which lies among the moun*
tains, between Bodmhi and Launceston, is
the only one I have seen.
It is among complex ranges of mountains
that lakes are generally found. Those of
Cornwall and Devonshire form only one
chain ; except in the part where this pool
occurs.
VII. SOILS. The SPECIES of surface soil
is remarkably uniform, and singular in its
component parts. It does not class properly
with any of the ordinary descriptions of soils,
namely, clay, loam, sand, or gravel ; but is
of a silty nature. Perhaps the principal part
of the ordinary soil of the District is perished
slate-stone rubble ; or slate-stone itself, re-
duced by the action of the atmosphere to its
original silf, or mud : among \\ hich, how-
ever, a portion of loamy mold is mixed, in
various degrees of quantity *.
Hence,
• For Remarks on the Accumulation of Soils, see
Southern Counties^ II. 96.
j6l district.
Hence, tho the species of soil may be said
to be the same, the quality varies, and
in some instances, very grcatJy. There are
small plots of land, upon the upper branches
of the rivers, equal in quality with the best-
soiled Districts of the Island ; deep rich land ;
grazing ground of the first quality.
The prevailing depths of the soils of the
ordinary cultivated lands of the District are
from five to ten inches. But they are seldom
naturally free from rocks or large stones to
these deptlis : and they are generally mixed
plentifully with loose fragments of similar
tocIls and stones : which will be mentioned
under the next head.
Other obsenable circumstances of the ^^-ii-v
^f West Devonshire respect their absorb-
E^■CY, and their being in a manner tree frolic
TENACITY. For, notwithstanding their smooth-
ncss, and apparent unctuousness \\hile wet,
they presently become dry and clean, after
the heaviest rain * : excepting alter a long
• 1S04. The foilowing notice, taken ia July 1791J
will sho .V this quality of the Devonshire soils, in a strike
tnz light. ** How singularly clean are the soils of this
District. It has rained almost all this day; — the whole
pf ihe afiernoim, vcr)- hard ; clearing up, suddenly, at
sunset. Tbii e%-cning, I have walked over a turnip groupd^
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 17
continuance of winter rains, when, the sub-
soil being surcharged, the soil, especially in
particular plots, remains perhaps, for some
length of time, in a state of mud ; yielding
to the foot in walking over it ; a mere quag-
mire ; horses and cattle reaching the rocky
substratum every step. This evil quality,
however, is narrowly limited, both in respect
to extent and continuance ; and might be re-
moved, by draining.
Upon the whole, the natural properties of
this singular species of soil are such, as to ren-
der it highly favorable to the purposes of
Husbandry ; it being, under proper treat-
ment, productive either of corn or herbage.
VIII. SUBSOIL. This is universally of a
stony or a rubbly nature. I met with no beds
of clay, loam, sand, or gravel ; such as we
find
just sown, and a summer fallow that is now plowing; —
both of which are as free from tenacity, or stickiness, as
if there had been no rain in the course of the day ! Not
a drop of water is detectable, nor the least appearance of
any having run off the surface. The rotten slate rock,
• I find, lies from six to twelve inches beneath the surfaces
of these lands, and has absorbed the whole of the super-
fluous rain water, as it passed through the soil ; — together
with some portion of the dung, I am afraid, which has
recently been plowed in, for turnips."
VOL. I. C
i8 DISTRICT.
find in other Pistricts. The prevailing sub-
stratum is ;i soft sLATET nocK ; which, in
some places, rises to the soil ; in others in-
tervenes a stratum of rubble, or unhardcned
slate stone; \\hich, in quality, partakes of
the firmer and purer rock ; the relation of the
two being analogous with that which sub-
sists between Hmestorte and the rubble, with
which it-is frequently covered *.
Intermixed with the soil, and often united
with fragments of slate rock, i*^ found, in
blocks and fragments of various sizes, a
specics of spar, crystal, or (juartz — provin-
cially " whittakek;'* which, in color, i^
mostly white, sometimes tinged \\-ith red,
or rust color. It is most commonly seen hi
small fragments, of varied forn) and surface,
mixed with the soil, and exposed on the sur-
face by the plow and harro^^ . The larger
pieces are gathered off ley grounds, and be-
come an excellent road material. Sometimes
it is found in large blocks, of several cubic
feet ia size : and is frequently seen, in quar-
ries, adhering to masses of slate-stone rock ;
in the manner in which limestone and its
• For the degree of absorbency of the West Devon-
shire subsoil, see the last note.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 19
spar are united; as if the two productions
Were caused by similar processes of Nature.
IX. FOSSILS. Blue slates of the first
tonality, for covering houses, are raised ia
different parts of the District. Flooring
SLABS, and slate stones for walUng, are
found in most parts of it *.
A singular species of freestone is raised
near the center of this District. It has for-
merly been distributed over the AVest of
Devonshire, and a great part of Cornwall ;
having been used most especially for sculp-
tural purposes, in the Gothic ornaments of
churches and other buildings. It appears to
have received its immediate formation from
tire ; though evidently not the production of
a volcano, in the situation in which it is now
found. It is called " Rooborough stone,"
from the name of the common pasture — Roo-
borough Down — under which it is buried—
in a long narrow line, stretching across the
Down.
* Slate quarrfes. Those three valuable materials
are usually found in the same quarry. The building stones
lie nearest the surface. Under these the floorino- slabs :
which are sometimes raised of great size. And, beneath
these, the roofing slates ; which are cleft out of blocks
of this pureit part of the rock, into slates of different
dimensions. See the List of Rates.
C 2
^o DISTRICT.
Down-j*. MoousTONE, or quartzose gra-
nite, is plentiful on the mountains, on either
side of the District.
X. MINERALS. Mines of tin, copper,
and LEAD (containing a portion of silver)
are still worked in the District ; whose sur-
face is defaced, and for ever rendered unpro-
fital)lc,for the purposes of agriculture, orother
cultivation, by these intolerable nuisances.
The stannary laws, if any such la\\s can really
be said to exist, ought to bo forthwith abro-
gated, and some rational regulations be struck
out ; — such as men of common sense may
understand, and under which industry may
be protected, from the rapine of adventurers;
who not imfrcqucntly do irreparable injury,
without obtaining any counter advantage
to themselves or the community: throwing
away that attention and labor, which, if be-
stowed on the soil, might long remain a na-
tional benefit.
t It is insensible to the marine acid.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 21
SECTION THE SECOND.
THE
PRESENT STATE OF THE DISTRICT
AS A PART OF
THE NATIONAL DOMAIN.
In viewing what may be termed the poli-
tical Economy of this District, it may be
proper to confine ourselves to the following
branches of that subject.
I. The pohtical Divisions of the District.
IT. The present state of Society within it.
III. The public works it possesses.
IV. Its present productions, as they may
be viewed in a political light.
^ . The characteristic features, or the pre-
sent appearance of the face of the
country, viewed as a passage or
part of the demesne lands of the
Empire.
I. POLITICAL DIVISIONS. TheCouNTY
of Devon ranks among the largest of the Eng-
lish Counties.
c tn
22 DISTRICT.
In regulating the Militia, it is divided into
three Districts; namely. North, East, and
South Devon ; this Western part being in-
cluded in the last.
The subdivisions are termed hl'ndreds;
some of which, I iinderstand, have still their
Courts ; — held principally, I believe, for the
recovery of debts under forty shillings.
fIu-\D?ED C-OURTS, or. Courts peculiar to
the subdivisions of Counties, were formerly
prevalent ; and might not a revival of these
ancient inquests, with regu kit i9ns adapted tj>
the prcscn): tim^s, be rendered ser%'iceable,
in matters of embankment, common drains,
extensive inclosures, roads, and public. nui*-
sanccs, that are not peculiar to any particular
manor ?
The MANORS of the Ditlnct are many of
them small ; frequently, more than one being
included in the same township *-. The Courts
are regularly held, and well attended ; the
rents of the lands appropriate to the manor
being usually paid at the Courts.
It must not be omitted to be mentioned
here, that. "'•* tlie custom of this country,
• In the parish of Ugborough (extensive) there are, I
am informed, six separate manors ; each of which holds
its Court.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 23
the inquests of manors take cognizance of the
weight of bread, within their rcsi:>ectiye pre-
cincts : an admirable custom, which might
well be extended.
The revival of jNIanor Courts, throughout
the kingdom, (or the establishment of other
rustic tribunals of a similar nature,) could not
fail of producing the happiest effects. They
are the most natural guardians of the rights
of villagers, and the most prompt and clacient
POLICE OF COUNTRY PARISHES,
I have formerly suggested the benefits
which would probably ar'"e from manorial
inquests ^', and the more my observations are
extended, the more I am convinced of the
numerous advantajres wfiich would arise from
them.
The TOWNSHIPS are mostly large. Many
of them have formerly been monastic. A
sufficient evidence, this, of the amxcnitv and
natural fertility of the District.
II. The STATE or SOCIETY. The
particulars to be noticed, under this head,
are
1 . The towns of the District.
2. Its villages and hamlets.
S. Itg
* See YoKK. Econ. Vol. I. p. 27.
C 4
3. lis inhabitants.
4. Their habitations.
5. Their ordinary diet.
C. Tlie t'uel most in use.
7. The employments of working people.
8. Provident Societies.
1. The chief TOWN of the District is Pty-
mouih ; which, \n ith the new town adjoin-
ing to the dock }^rd, and familiarly cdlled
Docli, together with the village of Sfoneliouse,
which now nearlv unites rhc new and the old
twns, may be said to form, at once, the
PORT and the market of the District.
Tav'istocJi', however, in point of situation,
and heretofore, perhaps, in that of respect-
ability-, might nmk high among the market
towns of the kingdom. It is situated in the
N'orthern quarter of the District, among its
richest lands (though beset witli wild moun-
tam scener)'), and was formerly famed for
its monastery. At present, tho meanly built,
it is a tolerable market tow n ; and is the
ortly inland town, in the District, now im-
mediately under sur^'ev.
2. Tlie VILLAGES of West Devonshire are
few^ and small ; farm houses, arid many cot-
tages, being happily scattered over the areas
of the townships. Nevertheless, near most
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 25
of the churches, groups of houses occur;
with hiere and there a hamlet.
Within one of iU townships, are found
the remains of a BORotroH — Beer-Alston : in
which, however, not a single voter, at pre-
sent, resides.
3. Inhabitants. Those of Plymouth and
its environs are not objects of this surv^ey.
They have been drawn together, by war and
commerce, from various quarters.
The natives of Devonshire are mostly of
good person ; tall, straight, and well fea-
tured. Many of the women are of elegant
figure :— differing very much, in person and
features, from their neighbours, — ^the female
mountaineers of Cornwall. But a similar
distinction is observable between the Salopian
women and those of the mountains of North
Wales ; and between the females of the
LoT\^lands and the Highlands of Scotland.
In the habitudes and manners of the
middle class, we find little which marks the
inhabitants of this Western extremity of the
Island, from those of the more central parts
of it ; except such provincial distinguish-
ments as are observable in almost every Dis-
trict ; and except what arises from an over-
rated estimate of themselves.
This
f6 DISTRICT.
This cndemiai habitude, which is not
obvious to strangers only, but which thp
Gentlemen ui' tbe.country, who mix with
the worlds arc the lirst to remark, may
perhaps be;acc9unte<l;t\)ry withoj^t bringing
any violent charge of personal ,vauiiy, qr
wantot" ii^Ui^i^^ag^(3|\ , ag^^w^ ^Jig pre&pnt
inhabitant^ • J > - fo -r - - - -• • •:
The coast of the Engl -: ' .-/-:.cl, espe-
cially its more; ^V<^tera part, \yas*4n inii^
probability, the Urst part pt.tji^.^slaad .which
w;as resorted to by civilized Foreigiier^ ; and
its inhitbitants, of^^^ooucse, took the leqd, in
the early stages ot ^viii/^tian in £ngl3;id ;
snd v '■' • r;»dvanced, perliaps, .in urbauity
and-iij. ., i^novvledge, while the inhabitants
oi ki;c more central and Northern TJ.^tri-ts
remained in a state of barbari ^ >-
ranee* Jience, La those days, they not onl v
felt> iMit.fvaily possessed, a well grounded
^periority.
But, through a series ot subsequent cir-
cumstances, which it would not be dilficult
lo trace, the inhabitants of the bodv of the
Island have long since gained the lead, in
what relates to the useful arts, and modem
improvements : a fact which the mere Fro^
vinciabsts of thb extremity of it do not ap-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. »7
pear to be yet sufficiently apprized of; or,
somewhat unfortunately for their country,
eannot yet allow themselves to acknowledge.
• I endeavor :to place this circumstance, in
what appears to me its just light, the rather,
as it has tended, more than any other per-
haps, to prevent the country from profiting
by modern discoveries. /^ .,f,j
4. The HABITATIONS of the District^ -im-
mediately under notice, are superior to those
of most other parts of the Island ; owing
chiefly, perhaps, to the materials of build-
ing being plentiful and good. Stone is al-
most everywhere abundant; and slates oi
the first quality for covering are procurable
at a small expence ; and lime for cement is
moderately cheap. Even the cottages are
mostly comfortable, and sometimes neat.
The farm buildings are generally substantial
and commodious, compared with those of
most Districts, for farms of similar sizes.
5. The FOOD o{ working people is some-
what below par. parley bread, slim-niUk
fiJieese, and potatoes, are principal articles
of food, among laborers and small work-
ing farmers. Bacon is a common article
of food, in farm houses. Formerly, barley
bread was prevalent at the tables of the
middle
28 DISTRICT.
middle classes of- society. The beverage is
chiefly cider ; or, during a scarcity of this,
heer : the liquors^ are a base kind of spirit
drawn from the lees of cider, and smuggled
brandy.
0. The FUEL of farmers aiid cottagers, in
the inclosed country, is invariably wood ; on
the skirts of the mountains, peat, or turf, is
in use. Lime is burnt chietly or wholly
with Welch afhjt, and Plymouth has a sup-
ply of coals.
7. The EMPLOT^fE>{TS of the District are
mostly those of hitsbavdr//. The little Jtihiifig
v^^hich has lately been done, has been carried
fm chiefly, I believe, w ith miners from the
Western parts of Cornwall. At Tavistock,
rs a Sergi' manujacton/, and the fipi)n}'ing of
ft'orsti'd employs, of course, some of the
female villagers in its neighbourhood. Much
worsted yarn, however, is sent out of Corn-
wall, to be woven in Devonshire ; where
women are employed in the w<;aving of serges.
8. Provident Societies, or ]^ox Clubs.
These A-aluable institutions were introduced
into this District, about thirty years ago. In
Tavistock and its neighbourhood, there is
one or more, I understand, for single wo/}?en
(mostly serge weavers) ; and some of tlic
1
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 0^9
Men Clubs, I am told, make a provision far
tvidows.
The encouragement of these Chibs is a
National object cif the first magnitude : — -not
niore with a view to lessen the present heavy
burdens of the poor, than to instil, into the
lower classes of society, a principle- of fruga-
lity, and a sense of social duties, which these
Meetings, under suitable regulations, cannot
fail of producing.
III. PUBLIC WORKS. The natural
abruptness of the country renders public em-
bankments, and drains, unnecessary; and
INLAND NAVIGATIONS difficult. So far as the
tide carries up the vessels, so far navigation
goes; but no farther, at present (17Q6)-
Nevertheless a navigable communication be-
tween the two seas is most desirable ; as will
be shown in the course of these V^olumes.
The **Leat," or made brook, v^:hich sup-
plies Plymouth with water, is one of the
most useful and striking works of the Dis-
trict. An account of it will appear in the
Minutes.
Pl'blic corn mills are usually supplied
with water, by means of similar " leats."
These most antient of. public works still re-
main, liere, in their pristine state. The poor
take
30 DISTRICT.
take their own corn to the mill, and there
dress it themselves ; the miller finding them
dressing sieves ; and the farmer ut whom it
is purchased, a horse, to take it and the fe-
male who dresses it, to the mill. Customs
which mark ver\- strongly tlie simplicity of
manners, that still prevails, in this remote
part of the Island.
" Passages," or public rnniiiEs, across
the estuaries, are numerous.
The BRIDGES are few, and, in general,
mean.
The ROADS of W est Devonshire are, at
present, most remarkable for their steepness.
Less than half a century ago, they were mere
gullies, which had been worn by torrents in
the rocks; and which appeared in steps^ as
staircases, with fragments lying loose in the
hollows. Speaking with little if any lati-
tude, there was not, then, a wheel carriage
in the District; nor, fortunately for the necks
of travellers, any horses but those which were
natives of the country.
At length, however, good turnpike roads
have been formed, between town and town,
throughout this quarter of the Island ; and
most of the villages have carriage roads opei>-
ed to thcni ; tho many of these by-roads, as
WEST DEXXINSIIIRE. ^
yet, arc narrow, and abound with steo}>s. In
Devonshire, as in other moiintainouj; coun-
tries, the tirst inhabitc*nts crossed the hills,
on foot, in straight ibrward paths. ^A'hen
horses came into use, the same tracks were
pursued ; and some of them have been con-
tinued, in use, to the present time.
Inclosures. This District has no traces
of common lields. The cultivated lands are
all inclosed; mostly in Vv-cll sized inclosui*es;
generally large in proportion to the sizes of
farms.
They have every appearance of having
been formed from a state of common pasture;
in which state, some considerable part of the
District still remains; and what is obsenable,
the better parts of those open commons have
evidently been, heretofoi-e, in a state of ara-
tion ; lying in obvious ridges and furrows ;
with generally the remains of hedgebanks ;
and with faint traces of buildings.
From these circumstances, it is under-
stood, by some men of obsenation, that
these lands have formerly been in a state of
permanent inclosure, and have been thrown
up again, to a state of commonage, through
a decrease in the population of the countrv.
But
32 DISTRICT.
But from observations, made in different
parts of Devonshire, these appearances, which
are common, perhaps, to every part of the
county, would rather seem to have arisen
out of a custom, peculiar perhaps to this part
of the Island, and w hich still remains in use,
of lords of manors having the privilege of
letting portions of the common lands, lying
within their respective precijjcts, to tenants,
for the purpose of taking one or more crops
of corn, and then sulfering the land to revert
to a state of grass and commonage.
In the infancy of society, and while the
country remained in the forest state, this
was a most rational and eligible w ay of pro-
ceeding. The rough sides of the dells and
dingles, with which it abounds, were most
fit for the production of wood ; the liatter
better parts of the surface of the country
were required for corn and pasturage ; and
how could ^ more ready way of procuring
both have been fallen upon, than that of
giving due portions of it to the industrious
part of the inhabitants, to clear away the
wood, and adjust the surface ; and, after
having reaped a few crops of corn to pay the
expence of cidtivation, to throw it up to
grass, before it had been too much exhaust-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^
ed, to prevent its becoming in a few years
profitable sward ? In tliis manner, the coun-
try would be supplied progressively, as po-
pulation increased, with corn and pasturage,
and the forests be converted, by degrees,
into common pastures, or hams.
The wild or unreclaimed lands being at
length gone over in this way, some other
source of arable crops would be requisite.
Indeed, before this could take place, the
pasture grounds would be disproportionate
to the corn lands : and out of these circum-
stances, it is highly probable, rose the present
INCLOSURES.
IV. PRODUCTIONS. In registering the
present produce of the District, we will ob-
serve the same order, in which its natural
characters were reviewed ; and enumerate,
1 . The products of its waters.
2. The produce of its soils.
3. The productions of its substrata.
1. Of its WATERS. The sea, which washes
the Southern skirts of the District, is singu-
larly productive. The market of Plymouth
has long, I believe, been esteemed the first
in the Island, for the abundance, variety,
and excellency of its sea fish. Of late years,
VOL. I. D however.
34 DISTRICT. '"'
however, this market has been the worse
siipphed, as the prime fish, caught by the
fishermen in its vicinity, have been contract-
ed for, by dealers, for that of Bath. And
some share of the linny treasure, which these
shores produce, is sent, I understand, to the
London market.
In a pohtical view, the Pilchard fishery
of Cornwall is the most worthy of attention.
In some seasons, the quantities that are said
to be caught arc almost incredible ; employ-
ing many vessels and hands in taking and
curing them ; and affording an article of
foreign traffic, of no mean consideration.
The produce of the rivers of the District
is chiefly Salmon : which resort to them, in
great abundance ; tho not in such numbers,
as they do to some of the rivers, in the
Northern parts of the Island.
A remarkablccir cumstance regularly takes
place, with respect to the time at which
Salmon enter the two rivers — the Tamer
and the Tavcy. Tliey usually begin to go
up the latter, in the month of February or
March ; but are not found in the former,
mitil some two months or more afterward ;
and this notwithstanding the distance of their
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 35
junction from the sea ; and notwithstanding
the Tamer is the larger river.
The natural history, and habits, of this
most valuable of river fish, is a subject of
enquiry, not unworthy of public attention.
Beside throwing into the market a consider-
able supply of human food, this species of
produce brings in an income to individuals
of many thousand pounds a year : public and
private advantages, which might, in much
probability, be doubled, by judicious regu-
lations and laws, respecting the preservation
and encouragement of this source of national
produce ; wdiich occupies no portion of our
lands, nor consumes any part of the produce
of the soil ; furnishes a considerable increase
of nutriment, without incurring any counter
diminution ; and is obtained at little expence
of labor or attention.
It is a practice in every District of the
Island, perhaps, for the dissolute part of
those who live near the sources of rivers, to
take Salmon in the act of spawning : a crime
for which scarcely any punishment can be
too severe. In destroying one, at this junc-
ture of time, the existence of hundreds,
perhaps thousands, may be prevented.
D 2 Some
36 DISTRICT.
Som^ particulars, relating to this article
of produce, will appear in the following
Minutes; — No. 3, 8, and 20 *.
2. The present produce of the soil is in
some considerable proportion, wood ; which
fills the dells and narrow vallies ; and hangs
on the rugged sides of more insulated hills ;
and which grows in great abundance, upon
the extraordinary fence mounds, "uhich will
be described.
The rough open pasture grounds bear little
wood, strictly speaking. But the Dwarf
Furze f , and the Heaths, occupy no small
portion of their surfaces.
Of the inclosed lands, in a state of Agri-
culture, a large proportion is in grass or let
HERBAGE, perhaps two thirds of the whole.
The rest is occupied by arable crops, and
ORCHARD GROUNDS.
• And for farther remarks, sec Treatise on Landed
Property : subject Salmon FisaERr.
t The Dwarf Trailing Flrze. This plant i? com-
mon to the more Western and Soulheni Counties. Its
appearances and habits are so perfectly different from
those of the ordinary' species of Furze, and it preaenres
those distinguishing characters so perfectly pure and per-
manent, VK hen intermixed as it frequently is with the tail
upright species, that they may well be considered as dis-
tinct plants.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 37
The ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS of the District
are the ordinary domestic animals of the rest
of the kingdom.
Viewing these several productions of the
soils of this District^ in a political light, we
find them to exceed its consumption; and
to afford some supply to the national de-
mands. A considerable portion of the wood
goes to the supply of the King's ships,
brewery, and bakehouses, at Plymouth. —
Much barley is, I understand, some rears,
sent out of the District; and numbers of
cattle, every year, travel Eastward, on their
way to the markets of the metropolis ; by
the route w^hich will be described ; and, of
sheep, some few may be drawn towards the
same center. Beside, it is observable, that,
of the cattle, sheep, swine, poultry, and a
variety of vegetable productions, which find
a market within the District, much goes to
the supply of the dock yards and ships of
war.
3. The products of the substrata have
been enumerated; as sto^^es, slates, tin,
lead, silver, copper,
Yet, notwithstanding the natural treasures
with w^hich the District has abounded, and
which have been draw^n from its bowels,
D 3 during
38 DISTRICT.
during a succession of ages *, \^ e do not find
it either richer or happier, than other Dis-
tricts of the Island, to which Nature has
been less bountiful of subterranean wealth.
On the contrary-, we find, in the mining
Districts, civilization and the arts in the rear.
This, perhaps, is a natural and inevitable
consequence of mining ; which not only im-
merses Ihc lower class in the most abject
employment, and buries them in the depths
of ignorance ; but, by exciting a spirit of
adventure and speculation in the middle and
upper classes, draws off their attention from
the more regular and certain advantages,
• Formerly, this District was a principal scene of
MINING : but, of later years, little has been done; until
ver}' lately ; when the advanced price of tin induced the
adventurous to re-open some of the old mines, and to try
their luck in new ones.
The Winks, which are worked at present, are chiefly
in the Western parts of Cornwall.
iSoit. Some productive copper mines have of late
years been discovered or re-opened, on the banks of the
Tavey, — to the great injury of its fisher)'. Twice, already,
have its shores, for some miles below the mines, been
strewed with pf)isoncd Salmon : — the effect, it is believed,
of " the while mundic water" (heavy laden, it is pro-
bable, with arsenical matter) which is from time to time
thrown out of the mines immediately into the river !
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 39
which accrue from agriculture, manufacture,
and the other useful arts of life.
On viewing the subject in this light, it
appears to be sound policy in the Chinese
Government, to suppress mining, and to
direct the industr}^ of its myriads of subjects
to THE CULTURE OF THE SOIL, AND
THE jNIANUFACTURE OF ITS PRO-
DUCE.
V. THE FACE OF THE COUNTRY.
The infinite variety of surface which this
District affords, the irregularly winding es-
tuaries, and the rapid torrents, by which it
is intersected, and the wild coppices that
hang on the sides of its hills, down perhaps
to the immediate margins of the rivers and
estuaries, exhibit scenery the most romantic
and picturesque. But the views generally
want lawn to give them softness and beauty.
WTien the meadows of Buckland, and the
meek grounds of ^Maristow, blend their la"\vny
surfaces with the wood and water, scenes
the most delightful are formed.
The broader views that frequently pre-
sent themselves are not less interesting. The
grandeur of the distant mountains of Dart-
more and Cornwall would give effect to less
picturable foregrounds. Plymouth Sound, par-
D 4 tiallv
;^o DISTRICT.
tially hid by Mor.ntedgccumbe (a prominent
and striking feature seen from every knoll),
forms another charming distance. A globular
hillock, seated on the Eastern banks of the
estuary of the Tamer, below the church of
St. Budix, commands a circle of views, equal
in richness and variety of visual effect, to
any other this Island possesses. To the East,
the church of St. Budix, with the sweetly
Avoodcd scenery of Tamerton Foliot, backed
by the savage "Tors" of Dartmore. To the
West, the estuary of St. Germains, lying as
a lake, among the cultivated rising grounds
of Cornwall. To the North, the estuaries
of the Tamer and the Tavey, terminated
with bold broken woody heights, and backed
hv the Cornish mountains. To the South,
the lower part of the same estuary, includ-
ing TIamoze, with the ships of war in or-
dinary ; the church of Plymouth and the
prominent features around it ; the Sound,
with ships under sail, skreened on the left
\\ith the cultivated hills of South Devon-
shire, on the right by Mountedgecumbe. A
more interesting subject for a Panorama
painting of rural scenery could not well be
conceived.
West Devonshire. ^^
SECTION THE THIRD.
THE
PRESENT STATE OF THE DISTRICT
AS
PRIVATE PROPERTY.
Xhe species of property attached to land
separates, in this as in other Districts, into
two orders : namely,
I. Possessory property in the land itself.
II. Abstract rights arising out of it.
I. POSSESSORY RIGHT. LANDED
PROPERTY puts on an appearance, here,
very dilFerent from that which it wears in
other parts of the kingdom. The feesimple
is principally in the possession of men of
large property *. But instead of letting out
their
* Tenures. The Copyhold tenure, I understand, is
not prevalent in this part of the Island. But an instance
of LONG LEASEHOLD occurs in the District of the Station
— in the township of Monks' Buckland : — the largest pro-
perty in it having been, during the course of the last cen-
tury (1804) sold, in small parcels, to any one who would
purchase
43 DISTRICT.
their lands to tenants, at an annual rent
equivalent to their value, they are sold^ in se-
parate parcels, or farms, generally for three
LIVES, named by the purchaser; or ninety nine
years, provided any one of the parties, named,
survi^ e that period : the lessor reser\ ing,
however, a small annual rent *, together with
a heriot or other forfeiture, on the death of
each nominee, similar to those attached to
the copyhold tenure ; w^iich this species of
tenancy, or tenure, very much resembles : it
being usual to put in fresh lives, as the pre-
ceding ones drop off; receiving a fine or ade-
quate piuxhase, for the addition of a fresh
life, or lives f.
purchase at a fair price, — under leases for five hundred
years: small chief rents being reserved by the lessor.
• Termed a " conventionary rent" — by which
means he is the better enabled to convene the tenants, at
his courts, or audits ; and make enquiries respecting the
existing lives by which they hold.
t *' WiDOWHOLD." There are (or lately were) one
or more parishes, in the Western quarter of Devonshire,
in which the life of the widow is considered, and admit-
ted, as a c )wtinuation of that of her deceased husband.
Hence, it is not uncommon, when a life estate hangs on
the single life of an unmarried man, for such a lessee to
marry on his death bed, — a near relation, or any other
woman whom he wishes to enjoy his estate in preference
to his landlord.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 43
This state of landed property, which is
common to the West of England, forms
one of the many striking features, that Rural
Economy at present exhibits, in this part of
the Island.
The advantages of this state of landed pro-
perty are few ; its disadvantages many. It
is a satisfaction to the purchaser to know,
that, during his o\vn life, and perhaps during
that of his son, the land whose temporary
possession he has thus purchased will proba-
bly remain in his family ; and theory suggests
that, w^th such a hold, the improvement and
enriching of Jus own estate — for as such it is
ever estimated — must of course become the
great object of his life. Bat unfortunately
for himself and his family, as well as for the
community, he has laid out his whole on the
purchase, and has not a shilling left for im-
provements : nay, has perhaps borrowed part
of the purchase money ; and has thus entailed
on himself and his family lives of poverty and
hard labor. Whereas, had he expended the
same money, in stocking and improving a
rented farm, he might have enriched his fa-
mily, and have thrown into the markets a
much greater proportionate (juantity of pro-
duce. Beside, the possession depends, per-
haps.
^ DISTRICT.
haps, on his own life, and he has a wife and
a young family of children. He dies, and of
course leaves them in a manner destitute.:
w hile, to add to their misfortunes, the bailiff
of the manor, in the hour of their distress,
deprives them of the best part of the pittance
he has left them.
Another evil tendency of life leases is that
of exciting a spirit of speculation and gam-
bling, and of alienating the minds of men
from the plain and more certain path of in-
dustry-. Purchasing a life lease is putting in
a stake at a game of chance. An instance
fell within my own know ledge, in which two
sets of lives have ceased, and of course the
estate has been twice sold, while a woman
who was excluded, through a mere circum-
stance, from being one of the nominees in
the first purchase, is still li\'ing. And, on
the other hand, there is a well known in-
stance, in which the lessee, at the expiration
of the term of ninetyninc years, tendered his
lease, in person, to the descendant of him,
from whom his ancestor had received it.
To the proprietor of an estate, tliis is, in
many respects, a disagreeable species of te-
nancy. His income, as has been shewn, is
exceedingly uncertain ; and, what to a man
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 45^
of sentiment is worse, it literally arises out
of the deaths and distresses of the inhabitants
of his estate : beside the unpleasant and un-
profitable circumstance of having his lands in
everlasting bondage. Let them lie aukv^^ardly
for the tenants, or intermixed with the lands
of others, or in farms of improper sizes, he
has no opportunity of adjusting or alter-
ing them. He can have no hope of two
or three adjoining tenants dying at the same
time. Nothing less than the plague, pesti-
lence, or famine, can assist him in a measure
so salutary, for himself and the community.
These disagreeable circumstances have in-
duced several men of property to suffer the
life leases of their estates to drop in ; and,
afterwards, to let their lands for an annual
rent, agreeably to the practice of the rest of
the kingdom.
This desirable change, however, can only
be effected by men whose incomes are not
wholly dependent on this species of property.
Kevertheless, any man who is possessed of
such property, and is not in distressed cir-
cumstances, may release the smaller farms
from this unprofitable and impolitic state;
and, in the course of two or three genera-
tions, the whole might be set at liberty,
without
46 DISTRICT.
without sensible inconvenience to the several
proprietors.
It is here to be observed, however, that
an inconveniency sometimes arises to a pro-
prietor of hfe leases, in suffering his farms
to drop into hand ; especially v^^ien the last
life happens to linger. In this case, the land
is exhausted, and the premises are stripped :
for the property changes with the last breath
of the dying nominee.
But, fortunately for both parties, there is
an effectual mode of preventing this evil ;
namely, that of granting the lessee, or his re-
presentative, a restrictive lease, for a term of
three or more vears, to commence on the
death of the last nominee : a liberal and wise
regulation, which some few men make, and
which common prudence requires. The in-
terests of the landlord, the tenant, and the
public, are thereby jointly benefited*.
• 1804. Several leases for three years, after the expi-
ration of life leases, have been granted by my Lord
Heathfield : and one, recently, with a clause which
may be adopted in other cases, under similar circum-
•tances. The farm, in this instance, being in a good
state of management, altho the life on which it hangs
has been for some time deemed hazardous, the lessee
^rees, under the penally of twice the amount of the an-
^ WEST DEVONSHIRE. 47
II. ABSTRACT RIGHTS. Of the nume-
rous claims to which the lands of this reahn
are liable, three only will be noticed, here :
namely,
1 . Manorial rights.
2. Tithes.
3. Poor's rate.
1. Manorial rights. There are two spe-
cies of property attached to the manors of
this District, which belong not to English
manors in general. These are mines and
fisheries.
The profit arising from mines is either a
sum certain, paid by the miner to the lord of
the soil, for suffering him to break, encum-
ber, and for ever destroy it ; or some certain
proportion of the mineral produced ; as every
fifth, tenth, or twentieth " dish."
Of the Salmon Fishery of the District,
some accounts will appear in Minutes, 8
and 20.
2. Tithes.
tiual rent to be paid during the said three years, to leave
the premises in as good condition, at the end of the term,
as that in which they were, at the time of ratifying the
agreement : two indifferent persons of business being
employed to view their then existing state. In every case,
some restriction is requisite.
48 DISTRICT.
2. Tithes. It is, I believe, the universal
practice, in the District under survey, for the
Rectqr, whether lay or clerical, to send va-
luers over his parish presently before harvest,
to estimate the value of his tithes. If the
owner of the crop approves of the valuation,
he reaps the whole of it : if not, the Rector
gathers his tithe in kind : a circumstance,
however, which, I understand, seldom takes
place.
This mode of settlement is certainly more
eligible, for all parties, with respect to the
existing crop, than that of collecting tithes
in kind. But, in regard to the discourage-
ment of improvements in Agriculture, they
are precisely equivalent.
1804. The foregoing, however, is not the
universal practice of Devonshire. In the
South Hams, at least, three shillings in the
pound, rent, — that is to say, fifteen percent,
calculating on the rent actually paid by the
tenant to his landlord, — is taken as a fair
consideration, by the Rector ; the tithe of the
farm constantly following, and as it were
growing out of, the rent : a simple, reason-
able, and liberal way of settling this preca-
rious business, with profit to all parties; —
the occupier, the Rector, and the commu-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 49
liity : there being, under this wise regulation,
no time, labor, nor produce lost ; nor any
obstacle placed in the ^ay of agricultuml
improvements.
In one parish in tliis Disti'ict (West De-
vonshire) two shillings and six pence in the
pound, on the valued rcjit, is taken : — the
Rector sending round a confidential person
to make the required estimate.
3. Poor's rate. It is worthy of remark,
that, notwithstanding the wages of thjs coun-
try are low, as will hereafter appear, the
parish rates are moderate. In Buckland, and
the contiguous parishes, the poor's rate, on
a par, is not now (i/qO) more than two shil-
lings in the pound, rack rent.
This fact, perhaps, may be the best ac-
counted for, in the circumstance of much of
the wooj, which the countiv' produces, being
manufactured within it : not, however, in
public manufactories, b}' the dissolute of ever\*
age and sex, drawn together from all quarters,
as if for the purpose of promoting profli-
gacy, debility, and wretchedness : but in pri-
vate families ; by men, women, and children,
who, by this employment, are kept at their
own houses, are enured to habits of industry,
are enabled to support themselves, at all sea-
voL. T. ^ tons.
5« DISTRICT.
sons, and are always at hand, to assist in the
works of husbandry, whenever the produc-
tion, or the preservation, of the necessaries
of life requires their assistance.
Manufactures carried on, in this rational
manner, arc highly beneficial to a country :
while those which are prosecuted by detached
bodies of people, in towns, or populous ma-
nufactories, may be considered as one of the
greatest evils with which any country can be
afflicted.
1 7Q8. I am well informed, that the late
rebellion, in the North of Ireland, broke out
in the large manufacturing tow ns ; w hile
country manufacturers remained in a state of
industry and quiet.
Many substantial reasons might be adduced
to show, tiiat AGRICULTURE AND MA-
NUFACTURE SHOULD GO HA>^D IN
I^lND.
THE
RURAL ECONOMY
OP
WEST DEVONSHIRE ;
AND THE
EASTERN PARTS OF CORNJFALL.
Rural EC0N0]MICS comprise three sub-
jects, separate in their more essential parts,
but closely connected in their ramifications,
which blend, in such a manner, as to unite
the whole in one distinct subject, and form
the most useful branch of human knowledge.
The human species receive their subsist-
ence from the soil, — are, in reality, them-
selves a produce of it. In the more advanced
states of population, their existence may be
said to rest on the right application and ma-
nagement of the lands which they collectively
hold in possession.
Landed possessions, in a state of accu-
mulation, become too extensive to be profit-
ably occupied by individual possessors ; who,
E 2 therefore,
51 RURAL ECONOMY.
therefore, parcel out their respective laiids.
among a plurality of occupiers, to whom some
species of temporary possession is given, and
they, in relurn, give some certain considera-
tion for such temporary occupancy.
But before a landed estate can be dis-
posed of, in this manner, with due propriety,
it is necessary to assign the lands it contains
to their proper usci : as to separate those
v»hich produce, and are fit for producing
wooiU from those \^ hich are adapted to the
purposes of /Igriculture ; and, this done,
to divide the latter into suitable parcels, or
farms ; agreeably to their respective soils and
situations. The farms thus laid out require
biuldings^ j-c net's, roiuis, d?c. &c. suitably
adapted to cacli. These arrangements and
operations, added to the appreciation of the
several parcels, the choice of pro[>cr persons
to occupy them, the regulations aiid restric-
tions necessary to be understood by the par-
ties, together with the unremitting care and
superintcndance, which an extensive estate
and its occupiers require, form a separate
and very important branch of Rural Manage-
ment *.
♦ 1804. For a GENERAL WORK on this subject, ser,
a Treatise on Landed PaoPERTr, lately published.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 53
Again, — Woodlands, which were for-
merly committed to the care of farm occu-
piers, who reaped the undergrowth, as a
produce of their holdings, the timber being
reserved for the owners of the lands, are now
generally, and Yer>' properly, detached from
tenanted lands, and placed under the care
and superintendance of woodwards, acting
as assistants to the managers of estates ; the
whole produce, whether of timber or under-
growth, being reaped by the proprietor of
the soil.
This MA^^AGE]MEXT of GROWN WOODS is in
itself an employment of some consideration,
and, when united with the propagation of
woodlands, whether by planting or by se-
minal CULTIVATION, forms the second sub-
ject of Rural Economy *.
The last is Agriculture ; or the cultiva-
tion of tarm lands ; whether in the occupa-
tion of proprietors, or their tenants : a sub-
ject, which, viewed in all its branches, and
to their fullest extent, is not only the most
important, and the most difficult, in Rural
Economics,
• For a GENERAL WORK on this subject, see Pla.vt-
iNoand Rural Ornament 3 thirJ edition, htelv pub-
lished,
E 3
5+ RURAL ECONOMY.
Economics, but in the circle of human Arts
and Sciences.
From this analysis it appears, that Rural
Economy compri2^s three separable subjects;
namely,
First, Tenanted estates, and their manage-
ment.
Second, The production and management
of woodlands.
Third, Agriculture, or the management of
farm lands.
Nevertheless, viewed in the synthesis, they
form a distinct branch of knowledge, with
which it is incumbent on every man whose
fortune is vested in landed property, to be
familiarly conversant.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 55
PIFISION THE FIRST.
J.ANDED ESTATES,
AND THEIR MANAGEMENT IN
WEST PEYONSHIRE, &c.
!•
ESTATES.
The species of landed property that prevails
in this District has been noticed.
The SIZES OF ESTATES are various. There
are a few of considerable extent.
The PROPRiEl'ORs are the Duke of Bed-
ford, v^iio has a large estate lying round
Tavistock ; the Earl of Mountedgecumbe
has now a considerable property, on both
sides of the Tamer. The Drake Estate,
•now Lord Heathfield's, is extensive ; and
"Mr. Heywood (now jNIr. Lopes) has a large
property in the District.
£4 2. THE
56 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
2.
THE MANAGEMENT OF LANDED
ESTATES.
TN a District where landed property is
clogged with so cumbrous a burden as that
of life leases, a general superiority of manage-
ment cannot with reason be expected : never-
theless, it will be proper to examine the pre-
sent practice of the District ; which is not
wholly imder that encumbrance : beside, it
is often as serviceable to the practitioner, to
expose defects, as it is to point out excel-
lencies, in practice.
The DIVISIONS of this subject, which re-
quire to be examined, on the present occa-
sion, arc,
I. Laying out estates into woodlands
and farm lands.
II. Laying out farm lands into distinct
tenements or farms,
in. Farm buildings, 8zc.
IV. Fences.
V. Disposal of farms.
VI. Forms of leases.
VII. Rental value of land.
viH. Times of entry and removal.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 57
I. LAYING OUT ESTATES. In the
distribution of lands to their proper uses, as
into WOODLANDS and farms, httle perhaps
has been done, since the original laying out
of TOWNSHIPS, in the manner already sug-
gested. The steep sides of the hills have
been suffered to remain in wood, the flatter,
and more easily cvdturable parts, being con-
verted to the purposes of husbandry. This,
however, is not, at present, invariably the
case : the tops, as well as the sides, of some
of the swells, are still occupied by wood ;
and tho it may frequently happen that, where
this is the fact, the land is equally as well
adapted to that species of produce, as to cul-
tivation ; yet this is not always the case : and
something, tho not much perhaps, still re-
mains to be done in this department of ma-
nagement.
II. LAYING OU^r FARM LANT)S. In
the distribution of culturable lands, into dis-
tinct holdings, the District under view may
claim considerable merit. The farms, tho
of different sizes, are many of them small ;
perhaps too many of them are of this descrip-
tion ; but, in general, they lie well about
the homestall ; or rather, we should say,
the homesteads have been judiciously placed
witliin
|t M.^XAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
"vvithin the areas of the lands ; not in villages;
as they too often are, in many parts of the
Island.
III. FARMERIES. The sjtuatio.z^s of
homesteads, or farm buildings and yards, are
generally well chosen ; as tlie side of a valley,
or near the head of a coomb or dell : sel-
dom in a low bottom. A suitable shelter,
and a rill of water, appear to have been
principal objects, in the choice of farmsteads.
In situations destitute of natural rills,
^* LEATS," or made rills, are cat, and have
been time immemorial employed, in bringing
what is called, in the pure language of sim-
plicity, " potwater" — to farm houses, and
hamlets of cottages, in upland situations : an
admirable e5:pedient, which is apphcable i^
many parts of the Island : yet wliich, until
of late years, in Yorkshire *, has never been
practised perhaps out of this extreme part of
it. How slow has, hitherto, been the pro-
gress of rural improvements!
The PLANS OF FARMERIES, hcrc, havc little
to engage particular attention.
The Biun is mostly small ; and is fre-
quentlv placed against a rising ground ; one
iiide or one end be^ng sunk some feet below th^
• See York. Econ. Vol. I. p. 162.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 59
surface of the slope ; having a door way level
with the ground, on the upper side : for a
purpose which will appear in speaking of the
HARVEST MAiS^AGEMENT. And another pecu-
liarity of the Devonshire Barn is noticeable.
Over the principal door (or folding doors,
which are not uncommon) the roof is con-
tinued down some feet below the eaves of
the building ; the rafters being supported by
spurs resting against the door jambs, or the
wall. By this simple and inexpensive con-
tri\^nce, the doors are kept dry, and the^
drip of the eaves prevented from being blown
upon the thrashing floor.
The Cattle Yards are mostly furnished with
open sheds — provincially " Ijfchays," Avith
rough mangers on the back j^arts, to hold
fodder. — Sometimes these linhays are double:
the same span roof furnishing two ranges of
sheds, and serving two yards, separated bv
a fence partition, running along the middle of
the shed : — a species of farm building, which
might be adopted in many cases. These
open sheds are used for cows, and voung
cattle ; oxen being generally kept in houses
or hovels, provincially '' shippens," during
the winter.
A '' pound house,'' or cider manufactory,
and
6o MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
and a store room, or cuh'r cellar, — are essen-
tials, in a Devonshire farmstead.
The MATERIALS of FARM BUILDINGS are
chiciiy stone; mostly the light blue slate
stone, which has been described. For farm
offices, earthen walls — prov. '' cob walls,*'
are common.
Indeed, in situations, where stone is not
at hand, ** cob" is a common material of
farm buildings, throughout the West of
England. Not only houses and offices, but
yard walls, and even garden walls, are fre-
quently built with it; and endure for a length
of time ; proA ided they are covered, so as to
be kept dry. Single walls are coped ^'; ge-
nerally with thatch.
In b\ul(ling these walls, straw is mixed
with the earth in a state of paste, and in-
corporated with it, by treading or otherwise,
in a way similar to that used in making the
clay floors of Norfolk. These w\ills are car-
ried up in courses of eighteen inches, to two
feet high, and fourteen inches to two feet
thick ; the preceding course being suffered to
* Ilcncc, perhaps, the original name was ropecf z^a//;
which, by contraction, and the provincial pronunciation
of h ior p, would be aptly changed to coh ivall.
WEST DEVONSHIRE, 6i
stiffen, before the succeeding one be set on.
I have seen in ditFerent parts ot the West of
England, cottages two stories Iiigh, with no
other support for the joists and timbers, than
these eartliai walls *,
In situations exposed to Westerlv winds,
the walls of dwelling houses, of ever}' mate-
rial, are frequently guarded with slates, put
on scale-wise, as upon roofs, to prevent the
"sea air" from penetrating the walls, and
giving dampness to the rooms. In towns,
the shells of houses are not uncommonly
built of wood ; framed ; Lithed ; plaistered ;
and slated.
Houses fronted with well colored slate,
put on neatly, and with *• black mortar*'
(namely cement, among whicli pounded
forge cinders have been freely mixed), are
not unsightly. But smeared, in stnpes o:
patches, with white mortar, oozing out of
the joints, and spreading partially over the
surface,
• )PiSc. — the French earth wall — (wiihout siriw) has
latdy (1804) been introduced into Devonshire; first
(I believe) by Mr. Recorder Faxshawe, at FranklanJ,
near Exeter j and has since been employed, on an ex-
tended scale, by my Lord Heathfield, at Nulwci]
Court.
6^ MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
surface, as is commonly seen, the appearance
IS filthy.
In the use of rough-cast, or " slap-dash,"
the Devonshire workmen are proficient.
They render it pleasing to the eye and du-
rable* It is sometimes formed with a species
of shining gravel, found upon the morelands,
which gives it, when the sun shines upon it,
a splendid effect. It is usual, to draw cross
lines over the surface, to give it the appear-
ance of dressed stonework.
The COVERING MATERIALS of tlic District
are slates * and thatch — prov. '' reed," name-
* Bluk slates. These arc now become the prevalent
covering of the District ; tho many old thatched roofs still
remainj in the more recluse parts of it.
For an accountof the slate quarries of the District,
teethe subject Fossils, page 19, N.
The slates are usually brought from the quarrv, in the
rough ', and are shaped, provincially «* dressed," by the
masons — slaters — or " hcllicrs" of the country.
The "dressing" is done with abroad-mouthed, short-
handled hatchet, or chopping knife; with a spike rising
from its back.
The workman sits on the ground; wiih a short thin
block of wood, standing on its end (with one fair face,
and level at the topj, before him. The ragged, shapeless
*' stone" being held with one hand, flat or nearly so, upon
the top of the block, its edges arc cut off, straight, with
the batchct. in the other: the workman striking down-
WEST DEVONSHIRE, 6j
ij, unbruised straw ; the grain being sepa-
rated from the straw without breaking it ; in
the manner which will be described : a prac-
tice
ward, — somewhat forward, — and evenly with the side, or
face, of the block.
The two sides, and one end, of the slate being thua
cut straight, and square as the eye can judge, a wooden
gauge — notched at every inch — and with a shoulder at one
end — is laid along it ; and the greatest length that it will
bear bt.'ng ascertained, a slight perforation is made, by
one tender stroke with the spike on the back of the
hatchet, to show where the pin or nail hole is to be made j
in order that each slate may be of some determinate
length, or gauge.
Slates are, here, usually laid in mortar, and pointed
beneath, i have known one instance of their being laid
on, dry; and, then, plaistered beneath. And another,
on the roof of an open cattle shed, in which they were
laid on, without any mortar whatever. And, for a
building into which the wind is freely admitted beneath
the roofs, I am of opinion the last is the most eligible
method. The cattle sheds at Buckland are covered in this
manner. See Min. 40.
The eaves are generally set with large heavy slates — prov.
♦* rags" — of eighteen inches to two feet square — nailed to
the rafters ; and on these the largest of the common slates
are hung with pins j finishing at the ridge, with those of
the smallest size.
The ridge is commonly secured with ridge tiles — large,
heavy, and in a good form.
For the prices of slates, and the cost of slate roofing,
see the List of Rates.
64 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
ticc common, I believe, to the Wkst of
England. Straw thus preserved makes a
neat and durable covering ; and, when no
other species of covering can be procured, it is
eligible — much preferable to thrashed straw;
which, being less durable, tends still more
to the impoverishment of the lands that are
robbed of it.
References to Minutes.
22. On the coating, or rough-casting of
buildings.
20. On the monastery barn of Buckland.
— . On the influence af aspect on cement.
27. On watering farmsteads.
— . On conducting rills, by a new instrument.
28. On the probable use of walnut leaves, in
making drinking pools.
29. On laying out the farm yards of Buck-
land.
— . On octagonal cattle sheds.
30. On hanging doors on stone.
— . On the cfl'ect of rust in stone work.
3 1 . Further on hanging doors on stone jambs.
33. Further on conducting rills.
37. On securing a leaning building.
40. On improving the farmstead of Buckland.
41. On timber for barn tloors.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. C5
-i^. Some general principles, in lading out
farm buildings, applied in practice.
— . On the general economy of a thrashing
mill barn.
TV. FENCES. Nothing marks the rural
management of this extreme of the Island
more strongly, than the construction of its
farm fences.
The banks, or foundations, of some of the
old Devonshire " hedges" are mounds of
earth, eight, ten, or more feet wide, at the
base, and sometimes nearly as much in
height ; narrowing to six, seven, or more
feet wide, at the top ; which is covered with
coppice woods, as Oak, Ash, Sallow, Birch,
Hazel. These are cut as coppice wood, at
fifteen or twenty years growth, and at more,
probably, than twenty feet high, beside the
height of the mound; together forming a
barrier, perhaps thirty feet in height.
A stranger, unaware of this practice, con-
siders himself as travelling perpetually in a
deep hollow way ; passing on, for miles,
without being able to see out of it ; tho
the most delightfid scenery may have accom-
panied him.
The ORIGIN of these extraordinarv fences
may not be difficult to assign. By clearing
VOL. I. F the
66 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
the forests, in the manner which has been
suggested, the natural fuel of the District
was, of course, materially abridged ; and,
where the general face of the country ^vsls
tolerably level, the sides of the rallies were
too few, and insufficiently extensive, to sup-
ply this necessary of life *. And it appears
to me most probable, that these coppice
FENCES were adopted to supply this defect of
fuel ; and they have proved, perhaps, the
best expedient that could have been struck
out. INIany farms have no other woodland^
nor supply of fuel, than what their fences
furnish ; yet are amply supplied with this ;
beside, perhaps, an overplus of poles, cord
wood, faggots, and the bark of oak, for sale.
Hedgewood is looked up to as a crop ; and is
profitable as such ; beside the benefit received
from the mounds and stubs, as fences and
shelter.
The AGE of most of these fences is great be-
yond memory-. Nevertheless, they are con-
tinued to be formed, to the present day-
Indeed it may be said there is no other me-
• At the time this measure was adopted, not a coal
perhaps had ever entered the countn*' ; and peat, if any
were used, was to be fetched from the distant hills.
1
^ WEST DEVONSHIRE. 67
thod of raising a live fence in use, in the
District.
The METHOD of RAisi^^G them is this. The
base being lined out agreeably to the dimen-
sions previously fixed upon, inclining walls,
or facings, of thick turf, which is raised on
either side of the foundation, are carried up ;
filling in between them, with the substratum:
continuing to set fresh lines of turfv soil, and
to fill in with the excavated materials of the
foss, on either side, until the required height
be reached ; being careful to reserve some of
the best of the loose mold for the top of the
mound, to set the plants in. And to this
end, it is proper, tho somewhat more labor,
to remove, first, the turfv soil from the
inner part of the base or foundation : thus
gaining an additional supply of this essential
requisite of a hedge mound.
To give the required firmness to the mound,
an otfset of six inches is left, between the foss
or ditch and the first line of turf; and the
inner face of the ditch is carried down with a
slope, similar to or greater than that of the face
of the mound. Finally, the outer side of the
foss is sloped back with a gentle acclivity,
not sunk down, steeply, as a ditch ; the sur-
face rising with an easy ascent, from the
F 2 ■ foot
68 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
foot of the base or foundation of the mound,
up to the natural sward of the area of the
inclosure.
This slope being sown with the seeds of
herbage, and manured by cattle taking shel-
ter under the mound, becomes productive ;
especially if it be covered with a little fertile
mold, or a sprinkling of manure, in the first
instance : so that a saving, rather than a loss,
of pasturable surface is incurred, by this
mode of fencing. For not only these slopes,
but the faces of the mounds, atibrd their por-
tion of pasturage ; w bile the coppice wood
growing on the top becomes, in most situa-
tions, of considerable value.
The method of planting the mounds is
that of plunging the roots of coppice plants,
— as those of oak, ash, hazel, &c. collected
in woods, rough grounds, or from demolished
liedges, — in the prime mold pro\idcd for
them, at the top of the mound: this being, ge-
nerally, but improperly, somewhat roundctl
up, to receive them. For by that practice the
waters of heavy showers are led to\\'ard the
outer sides of the mound, and find a passage
downward, between the facings and the fill-
ing or body of the bank; by which mean
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 69
the former are liable to shoot down, and
leave the mound in ruin.
The plants are usually headed down ;
leaving stems (several perhaps on the same
root or stool) about two feet and a half high,
and some of them thicker perhaps than the
arm. But ignorant planters, I have observed,
'leave the whole of the tops on ! and of course
lose the principal part of them. Bv thus
leaving the stems of a sufficient height, a
fence is immediately o])tained. If, however,
sheep are the pasturing stock, some slight
guard or blind is necessary, to prevent them
from scaling the mound.
The DIMENSIONS of new hedge mounds
are various. What may be considered as the
modern mound of a common farm fence is
of the following dimensions. The base of
the made bank is six feet wide, its height
(measuring by the slope) four feet ; narrow-
ing to three feet at the top ; the ditch or foss
being sunk two feet below the natural surface
of the scround : the base of the foundation
(spread by the sloping and the offset on either
side) measures about eight feet. The height
of the finished mound six feet (measured on
the slope) ; namely "four up and two down:**
F 3 this
70 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
this height being considered as requisite to
a sufBcient fence.
The price of raising such a fence mound
has been, until of late years, two shillings
and sixpence, the *' land yard" — or provin-
cial perch of eighteen feet : and sixpence a
"yard" for plants and planting: together,
not three shillings a statute rod. Since the
rise of wages, the making of such a fence is
worth about four shillings, a rod.
1804. On the barton or farm of Buck-
land, hedges to a considerable extent have
been raised, of the following dimensions.
The base of the bank eight feet ; the height
or length of the slope four feet, the width of
the top five feet. The breadth of the offsets
six to eight inches, the depth of the foss
(measured by the inner slope) two feet, the
width of the base of the foundation, bet\\een
foss and foss, about ten feet. The cost five
shillings and sixpence, the statute perch, for
forming the mound : — gathering the plants,
and planting them, being done by the day *.
Remarks. The best skill in forming these
mounds hes in uniting the facing tur>'^es in-
timately with each other, and with the fill-
* Many of the old hedges of this formerly monastic
demesne far exceed those dimensions.
WTST DEVONSHIRE. 71
ings or body of the mound, whose entirety
and stability they are intended to presence.
This is done by beating the turves, after
they are firmly backed, with some heavy
iron instmment, as the head of a mattock
or a stone hammer, until every seam and
crevice be closed, and the natural texture of
the sward be completely broken ; so as to
render the entire face of the slope of one
uniform texture ; and the entire mound, as
nearly as ordinary tools can make it, an
evenly compact mass.
An art of planting coppice woods on hedge
mounds consists in plunging the roots of the
plants deep enough in the mound : — not only
the roots, but a few inches of the stems,
ought to be buried : and, finally, to leave the
top of the mound somewhat hollow, or dish-
ing : for the twofold purpose of avoiding the
evil, noticed above, and of giving the waters
of heavy showers a due tendency toward the
interior of the mound ; in order to induce
the fibres to shoot downward, and to supply
them with moisture in dry seasons ; to the
evil effects of which a tall mound is pecu-
liarly obnoxious. A hedge mound of the
size, and in the form here recommended,
might even be copiously watered in a dry
F 4 season.
72 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
season, without danger ; yet with conve-
nieney.aml \\ ith benefit, not only to the wood
plants, but to the herbage on the sides of the
mound ; by inducing the fibres to strike in-
\\ ard ; and thereby to keep the turf in vigor,
and bind together the entire fabric.
The ADVANTAGES of coppicc fences are
those of being an insuperable barrier to stock,
— of atibrding an extraordinary shelter and
shade to pasturing animals, — of giving a ne-
cessary supply of fuel, in a country where
no other fuel than wood can, even at present,
be compassed by common farmers, — and of
being, with ordinary care in repairing them,
everlasting. Instead of mouldering away,
and growing less as they increase in age, the
swelling of the roots, the falling of the leaves,
and decayed boughs, and the shovellings of
their bases thrown upon their tops, with
fresh sods brought from a distance, perhaps,
to make good accidental breaches, tend to
increase, rather than to diminish, the mounds;
so that the bulkincss of some of the old
hedges may be owing to liine, rather than to
the original formation.
The DisAOVANTAGr.s of the Devonshire
hedges are their first cost, and the injury they
do to arable crops, by their drip and shade.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 73
as well as bj preventing a free circulation of
air. And their being liable to be torn down
bj cattle, when the adjoining field is in a
state of pasture, is another disadvantage.
But every species of fence has its disad-
vantage; and whether, upon the whole, that
under consideration is preferable to the ordi-
nary live hedge of the kingdom, I will not
attempt to decide. In an Upland District,
and where the fields are of a good size, cop-
pice fences are more eligible, than they would
be, in a low well sheltered country, with
small inclosures ; and much more eligible in
a District where wood is the only fuel, than
they would be in a coal country.
To the sportsman, these fences are un-
friendly; and, to an invading army, they
would be most embarrassing : an extent of
country, intersected by such barriers, would
be, in effect, one immense fortification.
References to Minutes.
For practical remarks, on the management
of coppice hedges, see the following Mi-
nutes, 12 and 15.
For their probable use on mountain heights,
see District the third — Improve.ments of
Dartmore.
For
74 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
For their evident use on wide exposed
marshlands, see Southern Counties — Dis-
trict, RoMNET Marsh.
And forgeneral remarks on them,as skreen
FENCES, see Treatise on Landed Property.
V. The disposal of FARMS may be
said to be threefold : namely,
Selling them for lives.
Letting them for a term, and
Occupying them in husbandry-.
The last, namely, the practice of men of
fortune occupying some considerable parts
of their estates, appears to have been, until
of late vears, a prevaihng fashion among the
great proprietors of Devonshire. There is
an instance of one noble family having kept
in hand fourteen or fifteen hundred acres,, for
some generations past ; and of another family
having occupied seven or eight hundred acres,
for more than two centuries ; and, in these
two instances, the lands, I believe, still
(i;(jG) remain in hand. But many other
proprietors, finding little income arising from
lands thus employed, and some one or more,
it is asserted, having been brought into debt
by their managers (I speak here of farms
lying at a distance from the principal resi-
dences of their owners), such farms have
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 75
been wisely let or sold, to men who have a
personal interest in their management.
These domains were probably kept in the
occupation of their proprietors, with a view
to set an example to the tenants of their re-
spective estates, in the infancy of husbandry:
and the state of management, in which we
now find the District, may have arisen out
of this circumstance. But men of fortune
appear to have abandoned, long ago, this
original intention, if such it were ; and to
have taken for granted, that their lands were
in a state of perfect management *.
The selling of farms for three lives,
nominated by the respective purchasers, as
it was the ancient, and once perhaps the
universal practice of the District, comes next
under consideration.
At present, one half, or two thirds of the
bnds of the District, probably, are under this
species of tenure, or tenancy, or hold : the
^■emainder being occupied by proprietors,
* Some years ago (see Min. 25) a Society of Agri-
culture was formed, in the South Hams of Devon-
shire, by the spirited managers of that quarter of the
county : a circumstance which will doubtlessly tend to
disperse the seeds of modern improvement, over this de-
partment of the kingdom.
whettier
76 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
whether men of fortune or veomanrv ; and
by tenants, for a term certain, or from year
to year.
The disposal of farms for three hves is
generally by what are provjncially termed
** SURVEYS ;" a species of acctiox; at
which candidates bid for the priority of refu-
sal, rather than for the thing itself ; a species
of sale common to every species of property.
If the highest bidder does not reach the sel-
ler's price, the bidding is inconclusive : the
seller names his price, and the highest bidder
has the first option of choice, or refusal. If
he refuse, the next highest bidder takes his
choice, and so of the rest : a species of sale,
\\ hich is veiy convenient to the seller.
The estimate value of lands, for three lives,
is about eighteen years purchase of the neat
rental value, or from fourteen to sixteen of
the gross rent and taxes^, which last life lessees
usually engage to pay ; together with a small
annual rent ; and generally a heriot, forfeit-
able on the death of each nominee, as has
been mentioned in page 43.
The purchaser has the right of assigning,
and of letting the premises to farm, from
year to year, for. a term of years, or during
the term of the life lease; thus becoming
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 77
a sort uf middle man, between the proprietor
and the occupier.
The lessee for lives generally agrees to
keep up the buildings, fences, gates, &c. Slc,
(the proprietor finding timber), or is liable
to pay for dilapidations. All coppice wood
and underwood, as well as fruit trees and
other trees, except Oak, Ash, and Elm, are,
generally, under certain stipulations, at the
disposal of the lessee ; and cannot be cut
down, by the proprietor of the land, during
the demise. But these stipulations Yar\' on
ditferent estates.
On the expiration of a lease for lives, the
lessee is allowed, by custom, a few days for
clearing the premises of livestock, and forty
days for dead stock — as grain, furniture, &c.
but he cannot touch a bough, or a fixture,
or remove straw, dung, &c. after the mo-
ment of extinction of the last life.
Arable crops on the ground, however, which
were put in previously to the demise of the
last life, belong to him who cultivateil them:
he paying the landlord, or the incoming
tenant, for the '' standing," or ground rent.
See Mix. 42 and 40.
But not so the produce of orchards ; which,
like herbage and coppice wood, being the
natural
ft MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
natural growth or progressive production of
the soil, and not the immediate fruit of the
husbandman's labor, belongs to the proprie-
tor, — goes with the soil.
vX The LETTixG OF FARMS, for a year, or a
term of years, is similar in method of dispo-
sal, to that of selling them for lives : so for-
cible would seem to be the tide of custom *.
In sellhis: a farm, an auction is a suitable
medium of disposal : the seller receives his
price or security, before he delivers up pos-
session ; and the lessee, himself, being gene-
rally one of the nominees, is, in some mea-
sure, done ivith. It is three to one that the
lessor will have no farther influence over him
or his farm.
But the case is very ditfcrcnt with a man,
who is to pay his rent haltyearly, and to
conform with a variety of covenants and re-
gulations, which are necessary to the species
of tenancy, now under consideration. In
* The CONDITIONS of a survey, for this purpose,
contain a description of the farm, the term of years during
which it is to be held, and the time of entry ; with the
heads of the lease under which it will be let, — specifying
the reservations, restrictions, and covenants to be agreed
to ; together with the manner of bidding, and the security
to be provided by the highest bidder, or the eventual
laker, for tlie due payment of his rent.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^ 79
this case, it is not more the rent, than the
man, that is to be looked to, and chosen.
Among candidates, at auctions, for letting
farms, are generally adventurers, who want
judgment, and men of desperate fortunes,
who want a temporary subsistence; and
these men will ever be the highest bidders ; \
will ever outbid men of judgment and capital;
such as will pay their rents, keep up repairs,
and improve the lands ; and such as ought
ever to be, and ever are, the choice of judi-
cious managers of estates *. There is a fair ^
market price for farms, as for their produce;
and no man is fit to be entrusted with the
management of an estate, who cannot ascer-
tain the value of its lands, and who, having
ascertained this, does not prefer a man of
judgment and capital, to any nominal rent,
which speculation can offer him. It may be
said, with little latitude, that, in the end, it
is equally detrimental to an estate, to over-
rent it, as it is to let it beneath its fair rental
value. This is an axiom of management
which is well known to every man of landed
* 1804. A striking instance of the folly of letting
farms, for a term of years, by auction, occurred to my
particular observation, since the above remarks \vere
written.
property,
8o MANAGEMENl' OF ESTATES.
property, \\ ho has persevered in paying at-
tention to his own affairs ; and >\ hich has
cost some men no small share of propert}^ re-
spectability, and peace of mind, to come at
the knowledge of.
The practice of letting; farms by auction,
in this District, is not ditHcult to be account-
ed for. It lias grown in part out of the cus-
tom of selling farms by auction, as above-
mentioned ; and is in part owing to the cir-
cumstance of the immediate management of
estates being in the hands of country attor-
nies ; who are, professionally, unacquainted
with the value of the lands they have to let,
and who have valuable interests in the hold-
ing of surveys. The auction itself is, in the
iirst instance, an item of charge, and throws
the holder of it " into the way of business ;"
not once, perhaps, but repeatedly. The
highest bidder may be an objectionable man:
he may be too bad for the landlord, or too
good for the steward. The biddings may,
of course, become void ; and a fresh survey
be required to be held. At length, however,
a suitable tenant is found ; the leases drawn
and paid for ; and possession given.
It may be useful to pursue the possible
effects of this plan of management. The
WEST DEVOXSHIRE. 8i
v.-hole of the tenant's capital and credit hav-
ing been expended in stocking and furnishing
his farm, he is lil prepared for rent ; and
misfortunes overtaking him, his arrears ac-
cumulate, until a seizure may be deemed
expedient. This, with the consequent sale
of stock, a release, &c. &c. may become
further items of char^re, and moreover make
wav for a fresh series of suneys, and a fresh
pair of leases. It is proper to add, ho\\-ever,
that these intimations are not meant in cen-
sure of the law land stewards of AVest De-
vonshire, but to place in a strong light an
imprudent principle of management.
Another singular trait, in the management
of estates, in this District, may be proper to
be mentioned. The agent, instead of receiv-
ing a salary adequate to his services, is suf-
fered to make an exorbitant charge, upon
the tenants, for their leases ; each estate
having its estabhshed impost.
This regulation, likesvise, Is evidently
founded on fallacious principles. The in-
terest of the agent ought ever to be connected
with that of his principal. \A'hereas, by the
practice now under notice, as well as by that
of lettinir farms bv auction, in the manner
which has been mentioned, they are estrang-
voL. I. G ed
$2 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
ed from each other. Instead of its being the
interest of the agent to promote that good
order, punctuahty, and spirit of improve-
ment, which ought to be sohcitoiisly cherish-
ed on every estate, his best interests are
connected with the beggary, and the conse-
quent sliifting of tenants ; and, of course,
with the derangement and eventual ruin of
the estate.
Beside, farmers are not so inattentive to
their own interests, a,s to omit to calculate
the expenceofthe lease, while they are bar-
gaining for the farm ; and it is well known
to those, who are conversant in the business
of letting farms, tliat nothing more disgusts
a good tenant, a num zrho can have afhfin
anyivhcre, than an exorbitant charge for his
lease.
VI. FORMS OF LEASES. In the con-
struction of leases, il would hi. unreasonable
to expect to find anything superiorly excel-
lent, in a District whrr<^ th«! letting of farms
may be considered a>, ij] some measure, a
modern practice. For altlio it must ever
have bt.en in u?^e, between middle men and
under tenants, yet it must have been a se-
condary and subordinate branch of the ma-
nagement of estates ; and as such, indeed,
1
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 83
it still remains. Beside, the forming of
leases, being left to men who are unac-
quainted with the required covenants and
regulation, necessary for promoting the in-
terest of an estate, is another bar to excel-
lency of construction.
The following are tlie heads of a lease,
under which one of the first farms in the
country was let, a very few years ago.
Landlord grants the use of the premises
for twentyone years, at a fixed annual rent.
Landlord reserves the privilege of hold-
ing Courts (this being a manor farm) with
the use of a parlour, bed room, and stable,
one day and night, for the customary fee of
two shillings ; also the usual dinner and
liquor, for the Court tenants, at one shilling
each.
Also all mines, quarries, &c.
Also timber, game, &c.
Also the liberty of sowing the third crop
of grain (which shall come in course to be
sown, in the last year of the term) with eaver
(raygrass) and clover, to be provided by the
tenant.
Also a right of viewing the state of repair
of buildings, &c. and, if necessary^ repairs are
not executed within two months after notice
G 2 given,
*4 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
given, tlie landlord mny execute them at the
tenant's ex])enre.
Also the po^^ er ol' re-entry, on the non-
performance of tlie agreement.
Tenant aoreks to pay rent, taxes, &c.
Also to do all repairs; the landlord first
putting tJie premises into tenantable condi-
tion.
Also to do suit and senice at the Lord's
Courts.
Also tp lav on fifty double Wincliestcr
bushels of stone lime, or seventv sacks of sea
sand, an acre, the first year of breaking up;
to be mixed with mold, in a husband-like
manner.
Also to tiike three crops of corn, for such
dressing, and no viorc ! these crops l)eing
AVHieat, Barley, and Oats, /// succession ! ! and
to sow grass seeds with the last crop ! ! !
Ai-so to keep up orcliard grounds; the
landlord first stocking them properly with
trees : the tenant at'terwards having the de-
cayed trees lor filling up vacancies.
Also to repair the mounds of hedges every
time the wood is tclkxl ; and not to cut them
under seveji years growth ; nor to cut rods,
^SlC. but \s hen tlic licdge is felled.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 85
Also to the following
Restrictioxs. Not t?o break up meadow
/^rounds, under the penalty often pounds an
acre.
Also not to pare and burn the surtace of
other lands, under the same penalty *.
Also not to grow Rape, ITemp, Flax,
Woad, Weld, Madder, or POTATOES, un-
less for the use of his own family.
Also not to sell Hay, Straw, orTurneps;
nor to carry manure off the premises.
Also not to depasture orchard grounds
with horned cattle.
Also not to fell, lop, or top, any timber
tree, under the penalty of ten pounds ; nor
any maiden tree or sapling, under that of
five pounds.
Also not to assign the lease, without
consent, &c.
Those who bind tenants to such a base
system of management, as the tenant of this
charming farm is bound (for eighteen years
to come) are entitled to pity, ratlicr than to
censure : they copy leases from musty furms,
left
• This farm lies somewhat to the Southward of thh
District 5 being within that of the Solth hams.
G o
|i MAXAGEIVIENT OF ESTATES.
left them by their predecessors, as they copy
black letter precepts out of Jacob and Burn.
The heads of a lease of a smaller tarm
within this District run thus:
Laxdlohd ag;rees to repair, &c. *.
Trnant to lay on a hundred bushels of
lime, or one hundred and twenty seams (or
horseloads) of sea sand, mixed with one
hundred and twenty seams of dung, an acre,
on all lands broken up for Wheat after Ley or
Grass. And not to take more than a crop of
Wheat, a crop of Barley, and a crop of Oats,
tor such dressing ; but to sow over the Oats
twelve pounds of Clover and half a bushel of
Eaver, an acre ; and not to mow the Clover
more than once.
Also not to cut hedges under twelve years
growth ; and then ^^ hen the adjoining field
is broken up for wheat : and to plash the
t^ides (or outer brinks of the mounds), and
shovel out the ditches (or hollows at the foot
of the bank), throwing the mold upon the
mound, to encourage the growth of the
hedgewood.
* 1804. It has been, of late years, not uncommon,
I uncler>tan(], for the landlord, under a lease for a term
of vcars, to keep in rep:iir the walls, and the roofs; the
tenant doing ius'ide repair:) : — an accurate practice. See
Norfolk, Min. 64.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. tj
Also to presence orchards : to keep them
free from horned cattle : landlord agreeing
to find yoimg trees ; tenant to fetch and plant
them, and to carry two seams of dung or
fresh maiden earth to set each plant in ; be-
ing allowed the old trees for his trouble.
Also not to sell Hay, Straw, &c. except
" Reed" (or unthrashed Straw).
Also not to assign over, &c. &c. &c.
1804. Since the publication of the first
edition of this work, I have had the satisfac-
tion of introducing a lease, on a new prin-
ciple, upon my Lord Heathfield's estates,
in different parts of this county : and altho
it met with some little resistance on its first
introduction, chiefly arising, I believe, from
interested influence, not a single specific ob-
jection, from all the enquiries I have lately
made, remains.
Instead of giving a lease for a long term,
ending at a time certain ; or of letting from
year to year, for a time uncertain, the hold
being terminable by six months notice from
cither party ;;/a short lease (as for six years)
is granted, but is not terminable, until three
fjears previous Jiotice has been legally given
by one party to the other : so that while both
parties remain satisfied with the connection,
G 4 on
88 >f AXAGEMENT OF ESTATES.
■ on (be terms agreed upon, the lease con-
tinues in force, — may be said to be perpetual.
And whenever either party may think lit to
dissolve it, the tenant has three years (at
least) to recover any c.rtraordiiianj improve-
ments which he may have bestowed on his
lands ; and if that time be found insulRcient
for recovering the whole, a clause of remu-
neration gives him a right to the remainder :
in order that no check may be given to the
SPIRIT of IMPROVEMENT.
A tenant holding under this species of te-
nancy, may farm with as much safety, as if
he were cultivating his own lands, ^^'hile the
proprietor is secured, by restrictive clauses,
to take place during the last three years of
the term : in order that the farm may be letl
in such a course and state of management,
as will induce a man of skill and capital to
enter upon it, and carry on the improve-
ments it may have received. Thus the te-r
nant, the proprietor, and the community are
jointly benefited.
For farther remarks on this form of lease,
see Southern Counties, vol. II. p. 213.
And for the form at length, see Tre.\-<
TisE on Landed Fkopertv, p. 37'2,
WEST DEVONSfflRE. 89
VII. RENT. The rent of the larger arable
farms, on which husbandry is the principal
object, is from ten shillings to twenty shillings
an acre ; according to the quality of the soil,
its situation, and attendant circumstances.
Small farms, with a large proportion of or-
chard ground, or watered meadow lands,
lying to them, pay higher rents.
For the Devonshire practice of valuing
land, see Mix. 40.
VIII. REMOVAL. NEwLADYDAYisthe
accustomed time of entry and transfer.
For several particulars relating to the Ma-
nagement of Estates, see the References
to jNIiscellaneous Minutes, at the close
of this DisTHiCT,
DIVISION
^ WOODLANDS.
DIVISION THE SECOND.
WOODLANDS,
THEIR
PROPAGAIION AND MANAGEMENT.
I.
WOODLANDS.
L The species of WOODLAND, which
is most prevalent in this District, is that which
comes emphatically under the denomination
of Woods : namely, a mixture of Timber
and Underwood ; the ancient law *, which
requires that a certain number of Timber^
lings shall be left standing, in each acre of
Coppice wood cut down, being, here, more
or less complied with ; tho it were only
that such standards should be taken down at
the succeeding fall of Underwood, and others
left in their stead. In consequence of this
evasion there is, in effect, much Woodland
• Of the 35th of Henry VIII ?
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 91
in a state of Coppice. And there is some in
a state of Timber Grove, with little Under-
wood.
The Hedgerow Wood of the District is
invariably Coppice ; with some few Pollards
growing out of the sides, or at the bases of
the mounds ; which are mostly too high and
narrow, and generally too much exposed, to
support Timber Trees upon their tops,—*;
were the tenants to suiFer them to rise.
The species of TIMBER TREES are
principally the Oak and the Ash, with some
Elms on the deeper better soils; also the
Beech and the Sycamore. But the Oak may
be emphatically termed the Timber Tree of
the District.
The species of COPPICE WOODS are
the Oak, the Birch, the Sallow, the Hazel,
the Ash, the CHES^'UT ; which last is found,
in wild recluse situations, with every appear-
ance of being a native. The Wild Cherry,
too, is found in Coppices: and some, but
little, Hawthorx.
The history of these Woodlands is
unknown : tradition is silent on the subject.
They are, undoubtedly, the aboriginal pro-
duce of the soils they now occupy. They
have no appearance of cultivation; except
near
92 WOODLANDS.
near habitations : and even, there, unless in
a few instances, Plaxting does not appear
to have been, at any time, the practice or
fashion of the District.
The ELIGIBILITY of the present Wood-
lands, in tlieir present state, has been men-
tioned : some small portion of them ought,
perhaps, to be converted to Farm Lands :
tho, in the ordinary modes of conversion,
they might not pay for the akeration : and
Acre are considerable extents of unproduc-
tive high lands, \s hich ought to be converted
to 'Woodland. See MI^^ 35.
The propagation or ^VOODLA^'DS.
The species of WOOD, proper to be
raised on the bleak barren heights which are
here spoken of as being eligible to be con-
verted into Woodlands, appear to me evi-
dent. On the sides of vallies, sheltered from
the cutting winds of this District, the Oak
is undoubtedly the most eligible species of
Wood. But, upon exposed heights, the Oak,
even as Coppice wood, shriixks frgm the
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 93
blast; and, as Timber, makes no progress
after a certain age ; becoming stunted and
mossy. The only Oak Timber, I have ob-
served in the District, of any size, grows on
the lower skirts of the hills. Whereas the
Beech flourishes, even as Timber, in very
bleak exposed situations. And, I am of opi-
nion, that, for Coppice Wood, on the bleak
barren heights under notice, the Beech, the
Hornbeam, and the Birch, would be most
eligible : and that, for Timber, in such situ-
ations, the Larch, alone, is eligible.
I speak, however, from a general know-
ledgre of this valuable tree, in the soils and
situations in which I have seen it flourish.
For it does not appear to have been tried on
the bleak barren soils of this District. Yet,
seeing the extent of such soils, which it con-
tains, and its situation with respect to the
ship yards of Plymouth ; and seeing at the
same time, with almost moral certainty, that
the Larch, in times to come, will be a prin-
cipal article of ship building, in this Island,
it is liighly probable that whoever now pro^
pagates it, will exceedingly enhance the value
of his estate.
1804. Since writing the above, I have
seen
94 MANAGEMENT OF WOODLANDS.
seen the Larch flourishing, in very bleak
situations, in this country.
3-
MANAGEMENT of WOODLANDS.
TO convey a comprehensive idea of this
department of Rural Management, in the
District now under view, it will be proper
to speak separately, of
I. Timber.
II. Coppice wood.
III. Hedge wood.
IV. Bark.
I. The ]\L\NAGEMENT of TIMBER.
The chief produce of Woodlands, here, being
Coppice wood, rather than Timber, less is
required to be said, under this branch of ma-
nagement. Indeed, judging from what has
fallen under my notice, respecting the treat-
ment of Timber, in this District, little more
llian censure can be fairly attached to it.
To the TRAINING of Timber, scarcely any
attention appear? to be paid. I have seen
Oak woods irreparably injured, and for ever
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 95
rendered incapable of producing large Tim-
ber, for want of timely thinnings.
And in the only instance of felling Oak
Timber, on a large scale, which came under
my observation, the management, or rather
mismanagement, was such as ought not to
be sutFered. Instead of clearing the ground,
or of removing the underling and stunted, or
the full-grown, trees, to make room for those
which were in a thriving profitable state, the
latter, only, were hewn down! many of
them in the most luxuriant state of growth ;
throwing them, heedlessly, among the stand-
ing trees ! thus adding crime to crime, and
causing double destruction. Acts Hke these
should be punishable ; for it is not a waste
of private property only ; but, in the present
state of Ship timber, and in the immediate
vicinity of a dock yard, such waste becomes
a public loss.
Enquiring into the cause of this outrage, 1
was told (and probably with truth, as nothing
else could well explain it) that so many hun-
dred trees had been sold, at such a price,
the choice of them being left to the purchaser;
who had a wide extent of Woodland to range
over; and who, guided by the exorbitant
price of Bark, chose, of course, the fuil-top-
ped,
^6 MANAGEMENT OF WOODLANDS.
ped, fast-p;rowing^ trees ; as affording the
most bark^ and of the best quality.
>^1804. I reprint thest^ observations, not
from any desire of censuring \Yhomsoevcr
might occasion them ; but as a general cau-
tion to inexperienced managers.
II. MANAGEMENT of COPPICES. This
forming a prominent feature in the Rural
Management of the District, it requires to
be treated of, in detail ; under the following
branches.
1. Training. -1. Mode of Cutting.
2. Ageof relling. 5. Modeof Convcrting.-
3. Disposal. t). Consumption.
1. The training of Coppice woods is
not, 1 believe,* attended to, farther, than to
keep them free tVom bronzing stock, during
the hrst stages of their growth. However,
considering the advanced age at which Cop-
pice wood is cut, here, much faggot wood,
and perhaps otlier inferior wares, might be
taken out \\ ith advantage to the rising Cop-
pice. Tlic Birch and the Sallow, quick grow-
ing woods, ouglit certainly to bo checked,
8o as to prevent their overtopping and cramp-
ing the growth of the Oak. The great ob-
ject in training Coppices is to give evenness
and fulness to the whole. In a district.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 97
however, where stakes, edders, and wicker
hurdles are not in common use, the less pro-
fitable would be the thinnings of a Coppice.
In the more advanced stages of growth,
hoops are, here, a profitable article *.
2. The age of felling Coppice wood,
in the ordinary practice of the District, is
twenty years. The bark of the Oak is a
principal object, especially at present; and
this does not acquire, much sooner, a suffi-
cient substance and maturation of juices, to
fit it properly for the use of the tanner. It
is oftener, I believe, suffered to stand until
it be more than twenty years growth, than
it is felled under that age. From eighteen
to twentyfive years may, perhaps, be set
down as the ordinary limits.
3. The disposal of Coppice wood. The
common medium of sale is the survey or
auction : the proper mean, where large allot-
ments of wood are to be disposed of, in the
gross ; provided men of property and com-
mon
* Hoops for Cider casks. The principal wood is
Ash; but Chcsnut and Wild Cherry are reckoned nearly
as good. The price, in the rough, about Sd. a hundred
weight. The time of cutting, December and January :
the time of bending, May and June.
VOL. I. H
98 MANAGEMENT OF WOODLANDS.
mon honesty can be drawn together as bid-
ders*. But, in this District, where the bid-
ders at such sales are, many of them, men
without property or principle, public auc-
tions become a hazardous mode of disposal ;
as most men of property, in the District, 1
understand, have experienced.
This class of purchasers are chiefly work-
ing woodmen, who unite themselves into
companies or sets, in order that they may
compass, the better, the parcel on sale ; after-
wards, sharing it out among themselves ; and
each employing assistants to take dov^n his
own share.
1804, This practice is now on the de-
cline, tho not yet extinct : men of property*
have of late years become purchasers of Cop-
pice v\ ood ; employing wood laborers to har-
vest it.
The prices of Coppice wood, by the acre,
are various ; according to the age and qua-
lity. They have lately had a rapid rise, on
account of the high price of bark ; and the
great demand for wood, which the war has
occasioned. Formerly (within memori') four
or five pounds an acre was reckoned a good
* See York. Eco5. Vol. I. p. 226.
4
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 99
price for wood of a middle quality, and
twenty years growth. Within the last ten
years, or less time, ten pounds an acre was
esteemed a full price for such wood. Now
(l7Q4) it is worth fifteen pounds an acre ;
the purchaser paying tithe ; which is usually
2^. dd. to 35. in the pound, upon the gross
amount of sale *.
4. The method of takixg dow:x Coppice
"WOOD, in this part of the Island, is singular.
The ordinary woods being cleared away, pre-
viously to the Barking season, the Oak is
PEELED STANDING ; all the hands employed
continuing to peel during the spring run of
the Bark. A^'hen a check takes place, the
woodmen employ themselves in cutting down
the peeled wood ; until the midsummer run
calls them again to the operation of peeling ;
which, indeed, may be said to last, without
much interruption, throughout the summer ;
the wood being chiefly converted into sale-
able ware, during the winter months.
This unusual mode of proceeding gives a
piece of Woodland, undergoing these opera-
tions, a striking appearance to the eye of a
stranger,
* Formerly, the tithe of Coppice wood was frequently
taken in kind.
H 2
100 MANAGEMENT OF WOOBLAXDS.
stranger, travelling through the countrv', in
the summer season. The purchasers' shares
are marked out in square plots ; and these
divided again into stripes of different colors :
one white, with barked poles lying along
upon the stubs I another brown, — the leaves
of the early peeled poles, yet standing, being
already dead, and changed to that color : a
third mottled, having naked stems, headed
with vet green leaves ; while perhaps the re-
mainder of each patch, resersed for another
^ car's fall, appears in its natural green.
lliis method of taking down Coppice wood,
however, has been practised, time immemo-
rial : and, where Firewood and Bark are the
principal objects of produce, a more eligible
method would be difficult to strike out. The
practice of suffering the peeled stems to re-
main upon the roots, in the first instance, as
well as that of afterwards letting them lie
upon the stubs, is theoretically bad. The
fact howeA-er is, this practice, tho it may
have been continued for centuries, has not
destroyed, nor materially injured, the woods ;
which, tho not equal in thickness and even-
ness, to the Sussex and Kentish Coppices,
arc upon a par with those of the rest of the
Inland.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. loi
5. 0. The conversion and consumption
OF Coppice wood is, here, into poles, for
uses in husbandry, as the roofs of sheds and
hovels, rails, &c. &c. ; cordiuood, mostly for
the use of ships of war ; faggots of different
sorts, for fuel, and for the use of the King's
bake-houses, &c. at Plymouth.
The ordinary price of cordicood, in time
of peace, has been about ten shillings a cord,
of 128 cubical feet (namely 4, 4, and 8), and
the poles and faggots in proportion *.
III. The management of HEDGE
WOOD. This department of management
is so exactly similar to that of Coppice wood,
that it does not require a separate detail.
The brush wood is cleared awav, in early
spring, and the Oak peeled standing, in the
barking season.
IV. The market for BARK, after the
tanneries of the country are supplied, is Ire-
land ; to which it has, for some years last
past at least, been shipped in great quantities.
This appears to be a principal cause of the
exorbitant
* Formerly, Cordwood was sold by weight; a
practice which is not, yet, altogether obsolete. The
price about iM. a seam, or horse load, of three hundred
weight.
H 3
lOt MANAGEMENT 01" WOODLANDS.
exorbitant price, t^ hich. this useful article of
manufacture has fisen to of late years ; and
which threatens to reduce to a state little
short of annihilation, the Oak timber of this
Island, fit for Ship building.
REMARK. — The process of tanning is
peculiarly entitled, at this time, to the atten-
tion of the Chemist. The bark of the Oak,
it is probable, acts principally as an astrin-
gent, on the texture of the hide ; and might,
perhaps, be equalled, or excelled, by other
astringents, natural or prepared, if duly sought
for, and attentively applied.
References to Minutes.
35. On the rental value of Coppice woods.
— . On reclaiming Coppice ground, for cul-
tivation.
36. On the disposal of Coppice wood.
41. On setting out Timber, for Barn Floors.
48. Precautions requisite to a sale of Timber.
— . On setting out Timber for sale.
— . Conditions of sales of Timber.
5 2. On pasturing young Coppice woods.
62. Generally, on setting out Timber for re-
pairs.
\\T:ST DEVONSHIRE. loj
DIVISION THE THIRD.
AGRICULTURE.
This most extensive branch of Rural Eco-
nomy requires to be examined, in detail ;
agreeably to the plan which I have hitherto
found it requisite to pursue, in registering
the practices of other Districts ; and con-
formably to the ANALYTIC TABLE OF COX-
TESTS, prefixed to this Volume.
I.
FARMS.
The natural CHARACTERS of
Faim^ appear, in a great measure, from what
has been said of the Natural Characters of
the District ; and only require to be adduced,
liere, in order to bring them into one point
of view, with tlie adventitious properties of
Farms, at present observable, in this part of
the Island.
H 4 The
104 FARMS.
The CLIMATURE, ill an agricultural point
of view, is very uncertain. In a dry sum-
mer, the harv^est is early, on account ot the
southerly situation of the District. But, in
a moist season, it is sometimes very back-
w^ard ; owing to incessant drizzhng rains,
added tc the coolness of the sea air.
The SURFACES of Farms, notwithstanding
the uneven surface of the country at large,
are less steep and difficult to work, than the
Farms of many other hilly Districts ; owing
to the circumstance of the steeper sides of
vallies being chiefly appropriated to wood.
The QUALITY of the soil has been de-
scribed, as being of a slatey nature ; mostly
abounding with fragments of slate rock and
other stones ; and generally mixed with a
portion of fertile loam.
The QUATs'TiTY or DEPTH of SOIL is greater
than the par of upland soils ; varying, from
five or six, to ten or twelve inches.
The SUBSOIL is generally a rubble, or bro-
ken slatey rock ; absorbing water to a great
\\ degree ; tho an excess of wet weather may
sometimes cause a temporary surcharge. It
may be said, however, in general, that the
soil and subsoil are absorbent, clean, sound,
and fit for all the ordinary purposes of Agri-
culture.
\VEST DEVONSHIRE. 105
The history of Farm Lands, in this
District, has been hinted at, as having passed
from the forest or unoccupied state, to a state
of common pasture, through the medium of
at least a partial cultivation ; and, from the
state of common pasturage, or hams, to the
predial state, in which it now appears. But
these suggestions arise, principally, from the
present appearances of the surface, and from
the other circumstantial evidences, mentioned
above. These circumstances, collated w^th
the different surveys that have been made,
at distant periods of time, might bring this
matter to a greater degree of certaint}^ than
either of them can when taken separately.
The present APPLICATION of Farm
Lands. Viewing the District at large. Farms
in general are in a state of mixed culti-
VATioN ; comprizing arable land, temporary
leys, ivater meadows, and orchard grounds :
HERBAGE being a prominent characteristic ;
as will more fully appear in speaking of their
management.
The sizes of FARMS are, as they ought
to be, extremely various. Bartons (a name
which perhaps was originally given to de-
mesne lands, or manor farms, but which now
seems to be applied to all large farms, in con-
tradistinction
io6 FARMS.
tradistinctioii to the more common descrip-
tion of holdings) are generally of a full size;
as from two or three to four or five hundred
acres of culturable lands. Ordinary farms
run from ten to a hundred pounds a year.
General Observations.
THE humiliating situation in which this
country is placed, at present (i/Q5), through
a misguided attachment to SPECULATIVE
COMMERCE, and through a neglect, not
less to be lamented, of the PERMANENT
IMTERESTS of the country, — has given us
an opportunity of seeing the utility which
arises from a gradation of farms ; and from
having farmers of ditFerent degrees and con-
ditions, to furnish the markets with a regular
supply of grain.
Were the whole of the cultivated lands of
the Island in the hands of small needy farmers,
unable to keep back the produce from the
autumn and winter markets, it is highly pro-
bable that the country, during the past sum-
mer, would have experienced a scarcity, nearly
equal to a famine ; and would, every year,
be at the mercy of dealers or middlemen,
during the spring and summer months.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 107
On the contrary, were the whole in the
hands of men of large capitals, a greater
scarcity might be experienced, in autumn and
the early part of winter, than there is under
the present distribution of farm lands.
I do not mean to convey, that the present
distribution of those lands is perfect, or pre-
cisely what it ought to be, in a political point
of view. Nevertheless, it might be highly
improper, in Government, to interfere in the
disposal of private property. It is therefore
to the consideration of proprietors of estates
I beg leave to offer the following principle of
management, in the tenanting of their re-
spective estates : namely, that of not entrust-
ing their lands, whether they lie in large or
in small farms, in the hands of men who
have not capital, skill, and industry, taken
jointly, to cultivate them, with profit, to
themselves and the community ; nor of suf-
fering any man, let his capital be what it
may, to hold more land, than he can per-
sonally superintend ; so as to pay the requi-
site regard to the minutiae of cultivation *.
The
* For farther remarks on the Sizes of Farms, viewed
in a public and in a private light, see Treatise on
Landed PropertYj Sect. V.
»o8 FARMS.
The plans of FAUCIS have been spoken
of as being generally judicious, in respect of
having the farmstead, or buildings, placed
within the area of the lands. The fields too
have been mentioned, as being well sized ;
but sometimes, perhaps, too large, or out of
proportion, on the smaller farms ; OAving to
the expensiveness and closeness of the fences
in use : and, owing, perhaps, to the same
circumstance, private lanes, or driftways, are
in some cases wanted. On the whole, how-
ever, the District is above par, with respect
to the plans of its farms.
General Remark. From this Analvsis of
Farms, it is plain that West Devonshire has
many advantages, natural and fortuitous, as
an Agricultural District.
For a description of the Barton or Farm of
Buckland, see Min. l and 2.
2.
FARMERS.
The SCALE of OCCUPIERS, in thisWest-
em District, is singularly extensive; reach-
ing from the largest proprietor, down to the
farm scnant, or parish apprentice ; who hav-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 109
ing, by his temperance and frugality, saved
up a few pounds, and, by his industry and
honesty, established a fair character, is en-
trusted with one of the small holdings that
are scattered in every parish ; and who, per-
haps, by persevering in the same line of con-
duct, ascends, step after step, to a farm of
a higher order.
The QUALIFICATIONS of PROFESSIONAL OC-
CUPIERS, including small proprietors, life-
leaseholders, and tenants, will not be found,
on a general view, at present, equivalent to
the natural and adventitious advantages of
the District ; nor such as are likely to give
effect to those advantages ; so as to raise its
Rural Management to a par with that of less
favored parts of the Island.
The PROPERTY of occupiers of this class is
absorbed in hfe leaseholds. If a man can
purchase a farm he will not rent one ; and,
in purchasing, he generally incapacitates him-
self from occupying his purchase, properly.
There are, no doubt, many exceptions to this
general position.
Their education is another bar to im-
provement. Many of them, as has been inti-
mated, have risen from servants of the lowest
class ; and having never had an opportunity
no FARMS.
of looking beyond the limits of tlie immeh
diate neighbourhood of their birth and sen-i-
tude, follow implicitly the paths of their
masters.
Their knowledge is of course confined ;
and
The SPIRIT of IMPROVEMENT deeply buried
under an accumulation of custom and preju-
dice.
There are, however, some few individuals,
in the District, who are strugghng to break
through the thick crust of prepossession, un-
der which the country seems to have been
long bound do^\Ti. But they have not yet
obtained, sufficiently, the confidence of the
lower class of occupiers. Their exertions,
however, will tend to convince the latter
that the established practice of the District
may be deviated from, without danger.
WORKPEOPLE.
NO inconsiderable share of farm labor i;5
done by farmers them.selves, their wives,
their sons, and their daughters. On the
WEST DEVONSHIRE. iii
larger farms, however, workpeople of differ-
ent descriptions are employed. They are
either
I. Laborers,
II. Servants, or
III. Apprentices.
I. The laborers of the District are
below par * : many of them drunken idle
fellows ; and not a few of them may be said
to be honestly dishonest ; declaring, without
reserve, that a poor man cannot bring up a
family on six shillings a week and honesty.
In addition, however, to these low wages, it
is pretty common for farmers to let their
constant laborers have corn, at a fixed price;
and endeavor to give them piece-work, — to
be paid for, by measurement, or in gross.
Nevertheless, the \\'ages of the District,
seeing the great rise in the price of living,
appear to me to be too low ; and what the
farmers save in the expence of labor, they
probably lose by pillage, and in the poor's rate.
All ranks of people, FARM LABORERS
ONLY EXCEPTED, have had an increase of
income, with the increase of the prices of
the
* But by no means inferior to those of other Districts
of this county, in which I have had opportunities of ob-
serving them.
112 WORKPEOPLE.
the necessaries of life ; or, which is the same
thing, with the decrease in the value or price
of money. This may, in a great measure,
account for the increase of the poor's rates,
in country parishes, without bringing in the
degeneracy and profligacy of the present race
of working people, compared with the past;
tho some part of it, I believe, may be fairly
laid to the charge of that degeneracy ; which,
if the task were not in\ idious, it would not
be ditficult to trace to its source.
II. SERVANTS. A remarkable circum-
stance, in the economy of farm servants, in
this part of the Island, is that of there being
NO FIXED TIME OR PLACE OF HIRING : a cir-
cumstance, however, which, I believe, pre-
vails throughout the West and South of Eng-
land. They are hired either for the year, the
half year, or by the week ; the last a ver}^ un-
usual method of retaining domestic or in-door
farm servants, in other parts of the Island,
When a servant is out of place, he makes
enquiries among his acquaintances, and goes
round to the farm houses to ofler himself.
In the Rural Economy of the Midland
Counties, I made some observations on this
subject (see note, page 18, Vol. II.) before
I had any knowledge of the practice of this
WEST DEVONSHIRE. tt^
District. What I have since seen of it in-
clines me to decide in its favor. It is cer-
tainly more convenient to the farmer : and it
is less degrading to the servants, than the
practice of exposing themselves, for hire, in
a public market ; tho it may not, perhaps,
be so speedy and certain a way of getting
into place. But this may be a favorable cir-
cumstance, inasmuch as it may render them
less fickle and changeable.
The WAGES OF SERVANTS, as those of la-
borers, are low, compared with those of most
other Districts. The yearly wages of men
run, at pi'esent (179O), from six to eight
pounds : of women three pounds, or three
guineas.
The BIODE OF TREATMENT OF FARM SER-
VANTS, here, may be said to be a judicious
mean between the extravagance of the South-
ern counties, and the opposite extreme of the
Northern provinces.
III. APPRENTICES. It is a universal
and common practice, throughout Devon-
^ shire, and, I believe, in the West of England
in genera], to put out the children of paupers,
boys more particulaHy, at the age of seven
or eight years, to farmc 's and others ; and to
bind them, as apprentices, until they be
VOL. I. I twenty-
214 WORKPEOPLE.
twentyone years of age, — formerly, until they
were twentyfour ! on the condition tliat the
master shall suppl}- ever}' necessar}-, during
the term of tlie apprenticeship.
This is an easy and ready way of disposing
of the children of paupers, and is fortunate
for the children thus disposed of; as enuring
them to labor and industr}', and providing
tliem \\ itli better sustenance, than they could
expect to receive from their parents. To the
farmers, too, such children, under proper
tuition, might, one would think, be made
highly valuable in their concerns, and, in the
end, would become very protitable.
The contrar)-, however, is generally the
case : — an unfortunate and indeed lamentable
circumstance, which arises, in a great mea-
sure, I apprehend, from improper treatment.
Instead of treating them as their adopted
children, or as relations, or as a superior order
of ser>-ants, whose love and esteem they are
desirous of gaining, for their mutual happi-
ness, during the long term of their intimate
connection, as well as to secure their senices
at a time when they become the most valu-
able, they are treated, at least in the early
stage of servitude, as the inferiors of yearly
or weekly ser\-ants; are frequently subjected,
J
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 115
I fear, to a state of the most abject drudgery:
a severity which they do not forget, even
should it be relaxed, as they grow up. The
ordinary consequence is, no sooner are they
capable of supporting themselves, than they
desert their ser\-itude, and fill the provincial
Papers with advertisements for " runaway
prentices."
There are, no doubt, circumstances under
which it were difficult, or impossible, to
render this class of servants, either pleasurable
or profitable to their masters ; such as the
naturally bad disposition of the servants
themselves, and the more reprehensible con-
duct of their parents, in giving them evil
counsel. Nevertheless, it strikes me forcibly,
that much might be done, hy a change of
principle, in their treatment.
When the unfortunate offspring of unfor-
tunate parents fall into the hands of men of
sense and discretion, they frequently turn out
well, and become most valuable members of
the community.
A more natural seminary of working hus-
bandmen could not be devised ; and the pro-
gress in life, that some individuals of this
class have made, is a recommendation of the
practice ; which, under the proper treatment
I 2 of
/
ii6 WORKPEOPLE.
of fiirmers, the encouragement of landlords,
and the protection of ^Magistrates, might be
profitably extended to other Districts ; and
become a prolific source of the most valuable
order of inhabitants a cultivated country can
possess.
1804. Some few years ago, my Lord
Heathfield adopted a regulation, — respect-
ing the parish apprentices, which by the pa-
rochial law he is obliged to receive upon his
demesne farms, — that I will venture to re-
commend to every master of such desti-
tute children : namely, that of promising
the several male apprentices (of different
ages) ten guineas, and every female appren-
tice five guineas ; to be paid at the expira-
tions of their respective terms ; provided they
severally behave themselves with propriety ;
and faithfully serve out their respective ap-
prenticeships.
Tims far, the regulation profiers ever}' thing
that is to be expected from it : and even one
year's faithful servitude, at the ends of their
several terms, will repay the premiums, thus
offered for their moral conduct.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. U7
BEASTS OF LABOR.
Introductory Remarks.
THE District under sursey may be said to
be undergoing a change, with respect to this
department of its Rural Economy : a change
which has been going on, slowly, for the last
twenty years ; but which has, as yet, made
little progress.
Formerly, carriage of every kind was
done entirely on the backs of horses ; ex-
cept in harshest, when sledges, drawn by
oxen, were sometimes used ; also heaps of
manure, in the field, were dragged abroad in
small cart sledges, either by oxen or horses.
Twenty years ago, there was not a " pair of
wheels" in the country; at least not upon a
farm ; and nearly the same may be said at
present. Hay, corn, straw, fuel, stones (for
building, and the repair of roads), dung,
lime, &c. are, in the ordinary practice of the
District, still carried on horseback.
This, to a stranger, forms a striking fea-
ture of management. Before the invention, ,
I 3 Or
Ii8 BEASTS OF LABOR.
or adoption, of wheel carriages, those modes
of transfer \N'ere of course universal through-
out the Island, and the reason of their being
continued so long, in this District, has no
doubt been, in part, the unlevelness of its
surface. But there are other Districts, the
cultured parts of whose surfaces are much
steeper than those of Devonshire (for reasons
already given) ; and the continuance of the
practice, here, has been in a great measure
owing to a want of judgment in laying out
roads ; or a want of spirit in executing
them. There are farms of some hundred
acres, lying perfectly well for wheel carri-
ages ; as level as farms in general throughout
the Island ; yet have not a wheel carriage
belonging to them.
It would be unfair, however, not to ob-
serve, that there are many farms in this coun-
try, on which the use of ** PACK HORSES"
ought never to be laid wholly aside *. And,
in many other Districts, the same mode of
• The banks of the Dart, in the neighbourhood of
Totness, furnish an extraordinary' instance of the use of
Pack Horses j which could not, there, be well dispensed
with. The roads to grounds are intolerably steep: alto-
gether impracticable by wheel carriages. And in the
present state of mixed private property, they could not bp
easily altered.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 119
conyeyance might be partially adopted ; ^r
the dispatch made, by pack horses properly
used, is such as no one, who has not seen
it, would readily apprehend -f. Neyerthe-
le'ss, the practice, compared with that of
wheel carriages, in situations which will ad-
jnit of them, is altogether ineligible ; and the
preyalence of it at present is a strong proof
of the backward state in which husbandry
still remains in this remote part of the Island.
OXEN haye ever been the plow team of
the District : sometimes with horses before
them ; but more generally alone : four aged
oxen, or six growing steers, are the usual
'' plow" of the District.
Oxen are universally worked in yoke; yet''
are
t In an Instance noticed, in which a stout lad with
two pack horses, and two men with three horses in a wag-
gon, were carrying faggots nearly the same distance (the
road of the one somewhat steep, of the other more level),
the comparative dispatch stood thus ; each pack horse
carried nine faggots (twelve are a full seam), and made
eight journies a day ; thus transferring twelve dozen.
The waggon carried eight dozen at a load, anc' m^cij six
journies ; and consequently transferred just four times the
number. But if the grass horses and the boy are calcu-
lated at sixpence each, and the stable horses and the men,
at one shilling each, the disparity of expence will not be
found very considerable.
14
130 BEASTS OF LABOR.
arg^ remarkably tractable ; and step out \nth
a pace, which a Kentish clown would think
a hardship to follow, with his high-fed horse,
team.
The style of driving an Ox team, here, is
observable ; indeed, cannot pass unnoticed
by a stranger. The language, though in a
great degree peculiar to the country, does
not arrest the attention ; but the tone, or
tune, in which it is delivered. It resembles,
with great similitude, the chantings, or reci-
tative, of the Cathedral sen-ice. The plow
boy chants the counter tenor, with unabated
ardor through the day ; the plowman throw-
ing in, occasionally, his hoarser notes. It is
understood that this chanting march, which
may sometimes be heard to a considerable
distance, encourages and animates the team;
as the music of a marching army, or the song
of the rowers. This being as it may, I have
never seen so much activity- and cheerfulness
attending the operation of plowing, any-
where, as in Devonsliire.
The native breed of this District are some-
what too small, for heavy \^'ork. But, in
the North of the county, thry are larger,
and fitter for the yoke; and are, indeed, on
the whole, the best working cattle I liave
WEST DEVONSHIRE. i2t
hitherto seen. These breeds will be spoken
of, more fully, under the head cattle.
Oxen are here worked to a full age : some-
times to ten or twelve years old.
I met with no spayed heifers in the Dis-
trict. The art of spaying does not appear to
be known in the country.
CART HORSES, since the introduction
of wheel carriages, are beginning to creep
into the District. They are mostly of the
black, heavy - heeled, unprofitable breed.
Howe-ser, in the steep pulls of this country,
a true-drawn, steady kind is required ; but
the hardy active breed of Suffolk appears, to
me, to be better calculated for the soil and
surface of this country, than the sluggish fen
sort, which is insinuating itself into it.
But, in a country where draught oxen arc
of so excellent a quality, and where the dri-
vers of ox teams are so expert, and at present
so partial to them, it were pity almost to
introduce any other animal of draught ; un-
less under particular circumstances *. It
would
* I have seen a pair of young steers, rising three yearj
old, put before, as leaders, the second or third day after
they had been broken into yoke; and, in a few days more,
piade perfectly tractable, in this intellectual capacity.
Jhe goad is the instrument used in driving, when
oxeij
122 BEASTS OF LABOR.
would be as direct an atFront to a steady good
sen-ant, in this District, to '• ordain" him to
^o with a team of horses, as it would be to
a Kentish plowman, to order him to take
the charge of a team of oxen ; and it might
be a crime to do away so valuable a prejudice.
The HOURS OF WORK are well regulated.
The plowteams mate two journics a day, as
in Norfolk : they go out before eight in the
morning, and return at twelve. Go out,
again, before two, and return before six :
working about eiprht hours a dav.
References to Minutes.
1 1 . On introducing the use of whip reins.
IQ. On shoeing oxen ; and on rendering
working cattle docile.
39. Remarks on plowing ^vith two oxen in
yoke.
oxen are used alone. But if horses are used before them,
a strong kind of whip — a thong tied to tlie end of a pUant
goad — is the ordinary instrument — the identical " god"
which is used in Yorkshire, when oxen and horse? are
worked together in a similar manner !
«
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 123
IMPLEMENTS.
IN a District whose Rural Management is
behind that of many other parts of the Island,
and whose present system of practice is pro-
bably of very antient origin, we must expect
to find a peculiarity, rather than an excel-
lency, in its Implements of Husbandry.
The WAGGONS which have been intro-
duced, are of the West-country construction ;
with the outer rail bending over the hind
wheel ; in the same manner as that of the
Cotswold waggon * : a peculiarity of con-
struction, which, I find, reaches from Glo-
cestershire to the Landsend ; and which, in
much probabiUty, has been originally copied
from a two-wheel carriage, that is still in
use in Cornwall ; and which may, possibly,
have been heretofore common to the more
Western counties : —
The CORNISH WAIN ranks among the
simplest of wheel carriages. It is adapted
either to oxen or horses. It is a cart with-
out a body ; at least without sides ; saving
only two strong bows, which bend over the
* See Glo. Econ. Vol. I. p. 57.
114 IMPLEMENTS.
wheels, to prevent the load from pressing
upon them. This Implement will be men-
tioned again, in District the Third.
The dray, or SLEDGE, of West De-
von, is likewise found in the lowest rank of
simplicity : — merely two side pieces, joined
together with cross bars. It is large, strong,
and useful, on many occasions.
The " GURRY-BUTT," «' slide bl-tt,"
or Dur^G SLEDGE, of Devonshire, is a sort of
sliding cart, or barrow; usually of a size
proper to be drawn by one horse : sometimes
it is made larger : I have seen four oxen
drawing compost upon a fallow, in one of
these little Implements ; which might, any-
where, be made useful, on many occasions ;
especially in moving earth, stones, rubbish,
or manure, a small distance, and on a steep
lying surface. The sides and ends are about
eighteen inches high, and are fixed ; the load
being discharged by overturning the carriage.
The furniture of PACK HORSES
\'aries vi'ith the load to be carried. Ha\',
com, straw, faggots, and other compara-
tively light articles of burden, are loaded be-
tween " LOXG CROOKS ;" formed of Willow
poles, about the thickness of sithe handles ;
and seven or eight feet long; bent as Oj;
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 125
bows ; but w ith one end much longer than
the other. These are joined in pairs, with
slight cross bars, eighteen inches to two feet
long ; and each horse is furnished with two
pair of these crooks ; slung together, so that
the shorter and stronger ends shall lie easy
and firmly against the pack saddle ; the longer
and lighter ends rising, perhaps, fifteen or
more inches, above the horse's back, and
standing five or six feet from each other.
Within, and between, these crooks, the load
is piled, and bound fast together, with that
simplicity and dispatch, which long practice
seldom fails of striking out. r
Cordwood, large stones, and other heavy
articles are carried between " short crooks;"
made of four natural bends or knees ; both
ends being nearly of the same length ; and,
in use, the points stand nearly level with the
ridge of the pack saddle.
Dung, sand, materials of buildings, roads,
&c. &c. are carried in "pots;" or strono*
coarse panniers ; slung together, like the
crooks; and as panniers are usually slung;
the dung, especially if long and light, being
ridged up, over the saddle. The bottom of
each pot is a falling door, on a strong and
simple construction. The place of delivery
being
|4# IMPLEMENTS.
being reached, the trap is unlatched, and the
load released.
Lime is universally carried in narrow
BAGS ; two or three of them being tlirown
across a
Packsaddle; which is of wood, and of
the ordinary construction.
The PLOW, — provincially " sule," pro-
nounced " zuLE," — resembles, in general
appearance, the old-fashioned Plows of other
Districts ; hut has three notable peculiarities
of construction. It has no rice or wrest ; the
moldboard standing some inches above the
level of the chip, head, soal, or sill of the
plow *. This, in turning the whole ground,
is sometimes an advantage ; but, in a loose
fallow, such a tool rather makes a rut than a
turrow ; half the soil, perhaps, remaining
unstirred.
Another variation in the construction of
the Devonshire Plow is still more singular.
The sheath, breast, or stem is not fixed in
• From SEUIL (the French term for threshold or sill —
an apt archetype for what is commonly termed in English
the head or chip of a plow) is probably derived the De-
vonshire provincial name, sule : the epithet that once
distinguished the particular species of plow that is now in
use, having been retained as its generic or substantive
term.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 127
the beam ; but serves as a regulator to the
depth of the furrow ; and is made longer or
shorter, at the will of the Plowman ; who
fastens it, in the required position, with a
wedge, driven into a notch, made across the
upper end of the tenon, above the beam.
The. third pecuharity of construction lies
in uniting the principal handle to the soal,
or sill. In the most old Plows, this handle is
tenoned into the sill. But, here, the foot
of the handle is crooked ; shooting horizon-
tally forward, in aline parallel with the sill;
to which it is strongly fastened, by two thick
wooden pins driven through them.
In all cases, where the oldfashioned soal is
used, this is an admirable wav of ioinino; the
handle to it ; giving great strength and firm-
ness of construction. There is some difficulty
in finding pieces of wood, fit for this sort of
handle ; but, in converting top wood, the
eye of a good Plow-wright is ever on the
watch for them. For further remarks on this
Implement, see Minute 7.
The rough HARROWS of this country —
provincially *• Drags"— consist of two pai'ts;
each of three beams ; hung together with
hooks and eyes ; and drawn by the corner of
the foremost : as they were formerly in the
North
tit IMPLEMENTS.
North of Yorkshire. They hang remarkably
steady behind the team ; but have not the
pl<iy of looser Harro\\'Si
The roller of West Devonsliire has
not yet been furnished witli shafts, or a pole,
to check it in going down-hill ; riotwith-^
standing the unlevelness of surface !
The ^' DRUDGE" is an Implement pecii-
h'ar, I believe, to this part of the Island. It
is a lotig, heavy, wooden-toothed rake»; with
the teeth broad, and set with the tiat side
foremost ; drawn by oxen or horses, and
used to collect the fragments of sward,
loosened by the plow and harrow ; for the
purpose of burning it, in the manner which
will be described, under the article Sod-
bur nixg*.
The YOKE of Devonshire is of too valu^
able a construction to be passed without no*
tice. It is by far the best I have anywhere
seen. It is at once light and easy to the ani-
mal. The operative part of the woodwork,
that \\hich rests upon the \\ithers of the
Ox, is broad and ^entlv convex on the under
side, to sit easy ; and hollowed out, above,
to give it hghtness. To prevent tliis thin
• The " Tormentor" will be noilced, in District
the SECOND.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 129
part from being split by the action of the
bows in work, rivets are, or ought to be,
run through it, horizontally, close to the
outer sides of the bow holes. The species
of wood is chiefly Alder, sometimes Elm.
Another most admirable part, in the con-
struction of this Yoke, belongs to the DRAUGHT
IRON ; which, instead of having, as is usual,
a single staple or eye, to receive the ring ;
the crown of the staple is enlarged, and is
divided into three compartments or notches,
like those of the draught iron of a plow ; in
order to give the w^eaker Ox the requisite
advantage. An admirable thought ; and
equally good in theory and in practice *.
The BOWS are invariably, I believe, of
Elm ; being brought from the Exeter quarter
of the County, into this District : selling,
here, at about 1 Sd, a pair : while the neigh-
bourhood abounds in Ash and Sallou\ with
which the farmers might make their own
bows, or have them made, at much less
expence.
Some of the TOOLS of this Country are
not less pecuhar, than are many of its Im-
* Another peculiarity of the yoke Is observable in East
Devonshire} and will be ftientioned in District the
SIXTH.
VOL. r. K plements.
I5P IMPLEMENTS,
plemeiits. The shovel is pointed, in tlif
manner of the hay spade of the North of
England ; resembling the marks on the suit
of spades, in playing cards : which is a cir-
cumstantial evidence, that the tool umler
notice a\ as once the comjnon spade or bhovel
of the Island at large*. Here, it still sup-
phes the place of both spade and sho\ el :
there being no such tool as eitliera spade or
a shoveK of the ordinary construction, in
the hands of farmers, or their laborers. I
have traced this tool as far eastward as AVilt-
shire. In Dorsetshire, it is common.
. It is furnished with a long, strong,* croc»k-
ed handle, the back of the bend ijeing turned
upward ; and, in using it, the hollow of the
bend is rested upon the thigh ; which is
usually guarded %\ ith a shield of strong lea-
ther, bound upon it.
This tool has many good properties. It
enters any substance mucli easier than a
broad^ mouthed shovel or spade'; and an-
swers, in the hands of a Westcountry man,
every purpose of the shove}, the spade, the
yard scraper, and tiie dung- fork of other
Districts. A- -1 ^r -t" i>^ f - r tlie last, how-
.. ♦ Qr are boih Cards ami pointed Shovels of FVencby
KoTman, or /irmorkan origin ?
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 131
ever, it is less eligible, than it is for the three
former.
There are variouS other peculiarities, in
the shape and dimensions of Tools. Some
of them will be mentioned, in treating of the
operations to which they belong. Those
which are here brought forward are sufficient
to shew, demonstrably, that the Rural IMa-
nagement of this quarter of the Island has
either had a separate origin, or has not par-
taken of the improvements and changes
which that of the rest of the kingdom has
undergone. Implements and utensils of hus-
bandry, as of war, are among the best evi-
dences of Historv.
References to Minutes.
7. Further on the Plow of Devonshire.
— . On the improvement of provincial Plows.
2T , A newXevel constructed.
04. On the construction of a new machine,
for watering turneps, &c.
6.
THE WEATHER.
The CLIMATURE, or general state of
the weather, in this extreme part of the
Island, has been already spoken of And
K. 2 with
tjs THE WTATHIiR.
with respect to prognostics, or a foreknc^r-
ledge of the weather, at any time or season,
I have gained no information, here. The
BAROMETER appears to be Httle attended to ;
and, indeed, all thoughts about the weather,
even of the morrow or the passing day, are
considered as useless ; until the misty sum-
mit of some oracular mountain announces
approaching rain. See page 1 1 .
It may be true, that in this peninsular
situation, tlie weather is less certain, than
in the more central parts of the Island ; yet,
from the observations I had an opportunity
of making, I found the barometer, and the
SETTING SUN, to be of the same or a similar use,
here, in forming a judgment of the weather,
as I have ever found them, in other places ;
tho, in this count r}', which may be said to
be situated within the region of rain, the
changes from fair to foul weather are, no
doubt, more sudden, than they are, in more
easterly and central situations. Nevertheless,
I am clearly of opinion, that a due attention
to the barometer and the setting sun, in the
summer months, would amply repay the
occupiers of lands, for the time and attention
they might have occasion to bestow upon
them.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. i^n
References to Minutes.
9. On the rains of West Devonshire.
50. The seasons of 1799 detailed.
50. Those of 1800 noticed.
7-
PLAN
OP
The management of FARMS.
Prefatory Remarks.
AN account of the rise and progress of
Agriculture, in the several Districts of the
Island, would form the most interesting part
of its history.
That the Rural Managements, now found
in different Provinces, have had distinct
origins, or have been raised to the states in
which we now severally find them, by very
different circumstances, is most evident. But
whether the obvious distinctions, which now
appear, have arisen, from the circumstance
of the first settlers of the Island haviiio- mi-
grated from different countries ; or from that
of subsequent invaders having introduced their
K 3 respective
134 MANAGEMENT OF FARMS.
respective systems ; or that of improvements
ha^-ing taken different routes, in different
Districts, — is by no means a question that
can be promptly answered.
By comparing minute details of the prac-
tices of different Provinces, with the minutiie
of practice, obsersable in the several Coun-
tries of the Continent, something might be
determined respecting this subject.
That the outlines of Management, in dif-
ferent parts, have arisen, in some measure,
out of the nature of soils, and the state of
occupancy in which they have happened to
be placed, is probable, from the striking
fact, that the general Plan of Management,
now practised in the District under view, is,
in outline, the same as that of the Midland
Counties, situated at two hundred miles dis-
tance, and severed from it by Districts pur-
suing contrary practices. Both of them have
been some length of time in a state of inclo-
3ure ; both of them are productive either of
corn or gra^s ; apid both of them have fallen
into that routine of Management, which,
viewed in the outline, will not, perhaps, be
readily improved: namely, that of subject-
ing the lands chietly to an alternacy of corn
and herbage ; but preserving the bottoms of
-1
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 135
vallies and dips, in a state of perennial grass
or meadow land. And, what is remarkable,
these lands, in both Districts, have been
watered, time out of mind : but with this
still more remarkable difference, the one w^as
wholly overflowed, and kept covered with
stagnant water, the other irrigated with
streams of running water.
To assist us in gaining a general idea of the
Plan of Management in West Devonshire it
will be proper to view
I. The present Objects of its Husbandry.
1 1 . The Course of Practice, whereby these
Objects are attained.
I. The present OBJECTS of Husbandry
in AA'est Devonshire ; those from which the
Farmer expects to draw rent, labor, and in-
come ; — are
Corn,
Cow^,
Pota^toes,
Oxen,
Fruit Liquor,
Sheep,
Dairy Produce,
Swine.
The CROPS, at pre
sent in cultivation.
are
principally.
Wheat, and
Barley; with
some
Oats ; a very
few
Peas; (no Beans;) some
k4
Turn
eps;
136 MANAGEMENT OF FARMS.
Turneps ; many
Potatoes ; with at present much
Clover and Ray Grass ; together with
Meadow Grass,
Pasture Land Produce, and
Fruit.
The LIVESTOCK of the District are
Working Horses, Swine,
Rearing Horses, Breeding Ewes,
Working Oxen, Store Sheep,
Dairy Cows, Fatting Sheep,
Rearing Cattle, Rabbits,
Grazing Cattle, PouUry.
n. COURSE OF PRACTICE. Lest it
should be said that the Practice of a Country,
which is behind most of the Kingdom, in
Rural Improvements, cannot be a fit subject
of minute description, it may here be proper
to remark, that the Subject of Agriculture,
viewed to its utmost limits, is not only ex-
tensive but abstruse ; and that no ESTA-
BLISHED PRACTICE can be so inconsi-
derable as not to furnish useful ideas, if fairly
discussed. Beside, we have seen that the
outline of its Plan of Management is in some
measure right, and, by due investigation, we
may be able to detect minutial practices,
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 137
which will throw fresh light on the general
subject.
It has been mentioned, as the Practice of
this District, to keep the cultured lands, al-
ternately, in ley herbage, and arable crops.
The latter have long been fixed and inva-
riable ; but the number of years allowed for
the duration of the former depends on cir-
cumstances, and the judgement of individuals.
Speaking generally of the District, more
than half of its cultured lands are in tempo-
rary ley : besides the perennial leys or mea-
dow lands ; and beside the rough pasture
grounds that are not under regular cultivation.
Dividing the arable lands into ten parts,
five of these parts may, in giving a general
idea of their arrangement, be said to be in
ley or pasture ground, one under prepara-
tion for wheat, one in wheat, one in barlev,
one in oats, and one in ray grass and clover;
following each other in the succession, in
which they are here set down ; namely.
Pasture, five years. Barley,
Partial Fallow, Oats,
Wheat, Herbage.
This has been the ordinar}- Course of Ma-
nagement, for the last fifty or sixty years;
during which length of time, I understand,
128 MANAGEMENT OF FARMS.
herbage has been, more or less, cultivated:
a circumstance that does credit to the Rural
Management of the Country.
I have been informed by a man who well
remembered the Practice of the Country,
previously to the introduction of cultivated
herbage, — that the arable crops \^el'e then
the same as they are at present (or lately
were), namely, wheat, barley, oats ; after
which the land lay ** ten or tweh^ years ;'*
— first, in a state of waste ; afterward, in
pasturage.
About twenty years ago, the cultivation of
the POTATOE was introduced into this District ;
and TURNEPS have been more or less culti-
vated, for a much longer time ; but not in a
manner which retiects credit on their cul-
tivators.
These two crops, being grown on ley
grounds, have in some measure broken in
upon the prior system of Management : so
that, at this juncture, the District may be
said to be losing its rcgidar rotation of arable
crops: and it.must remain under an irregular
Course of Management, until turneps and
potatoes shall be introduced after wheat or
oats, as a fallow crop for barley and ley
herbage.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 139
References to Minutes.
G. Preliminary steps to right Management.
20. On the Objects of Husbandry, in West
Devon.
38. Remarks on the Buckland plan.
8.
MANAGEMENT
OF
THE SOIL.
IN this department of the arable Manage-
ment, the Husbandry of West Devonshire is
very defective. The lands, in general, are
foul and out of tilth. The leys are many
of them covered with fern and thistles, a few
years after they are laid down to grass, as if
they had been, for ages, in a state of com-
monage ; and when broken up, are equally
disgraced by myriads of seed weeds.
This foul state of the Soil is not more ow-
ing to the small number of plowings it re-
ceives, than from the defect, which has been
mentioned, in the construction of the plow,
and the injudicious manner of using it. , 1 he
1^0 SOIL. AND MANAGEMENT.
plit, or plowslice, is carried too wide, yet the
share is narrow ; and the stern of the plow
without a wrest to force open the furrow\
Hence, in plowing broken ground, half the
weeds are left uncut, and the Iom er part of
the soil remains almost wholly unstirred; the
moldhoard only sliding off the upper part ;
thus covering up the uncut weeds, and giv-
ing the land the appearance of having been
plowed. The consequence is, the weeds
soon break through their thin covering, and
take again full possession of the surface. I
have seen turneps, after a fallow of three or
four plowings, overshaded with fern a foot
high, before the turnep plants were fit for
the hoe.
Another cause of imperfect tillage, in this
District, is the unrf.clatmed state in which
much of its arable lands remain, with respect
to large stones, and rocky obstructions of the
plow ; and which want nothing but industry
to remove them ; so as to give an even and
sufficient depth of furrow.
The Devonshire Plowmen, however, have
hit upon a much easier way of saving their
plows from destruction and themselves from
injury, than that of clearing the soil from
stones. Instead of usijig an iron bolt, to
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 141
fasten the draught chain to the end of the
beam, a wooden pin is substituted. AVhen
the share sti'ikes against . a stone, the pin
breaks ; and by this simple contrivance the
neck of the plow and the teeth of the Plow-
man are freed from danger.
It is probable that, formerly, much has
been done towards clearing the ground
FROM obstructions OF THE PLOW ; aS a
very ingenious method of freeing the soil
from large hard detached stones has been in-
troduced into practice : namely, that of s^ink-
ing tliem below the soil ; so as to give free
range for the plow, above th^m. This is
done by digging pits beneath them : an ope-
ration, however, which is some\\hat dan-
gerous to the workmen, and requires a de-
gree of care and circumspection, in perform-
ing it.
Cleansing soil from seed weeds. I
must not omit to mention, here, an incident
of practice, which was related to me, in this
District, by a friend of the farmer in whose
practice it occurred. A field, particularly
subject to wild oats, was eltectually freed
from them, by dunging it well, while under
fallow, and by working it atler wards, so as
to mix the soil and dung intimately together.
J42 SOIL AND MANAGEMENT.
The consequence of this was a full crop of
oats ; which was mown for hay ; and the
soil ever after freed from these troublesome
weeds.
This incident, tho not, perhaps, quite ac-
curately stated (it is not probable that, with
the imperfect tillage of this countr}', every
individual seed should be brought at once
into vegetation) shews the utility of work-
ing A DUNGED FALLOW, bcforc the crop be
sown : a practice I have ever found highly
eligible.
SoDBURNiNG. Thc most noticeable parti-
cular of Management, in the Soil Process of
this District, is that of*' burning beat," as
it is provincial ly termed ; answering in a great
measure the paring and burning, or more
technically, sodburning — of other Districts.
This operation in Agriculture has been
practised, in this Western part of the Island,
from time beyond which memory nor tradi-
tion reaches. In an old tract, which I saw
some years ago in the British Museum, it is
termed DEVONSiiiRfNG, and it is to this day
called Denshiring, in different Districts.
There are, at present, three distinct me-
thods of separating the sward or sod, provin-
cially thc " spine" — from the soil. The one
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 143
is performed with a ** beating axe" — namely
a large adze — some five or six inches wide,
and ten or twelve inches long ; crooked, and
somewhat hollow or dishing. With this,
which was probably the original instrument
employed in the operation, large chips, par-
ings, or sods are struck off. It is still used
in rough uneven grounds, especially where
furze or the stubs of brushwood abound. In
using it, the workman appears, to the eye
of a stranger at some distance, to be heating
the surface, as with a beetle, rather than to
be chipping off the sward with an edge-tool.
This operation is termed " hand beating."
The next Instrument in use is the " spade,"
resembling the paring spade, or breast plow,
of other Districts : with, however, in some
instances at least, a notable addition : namely
a moldboard ! fixed in such a manner, as to
turn the sod or turf, as a plow turns the fur-
row slice : thus becoming literally a breast
PLOW ; a name which has probably been
given to the Implement in this state ; and
continued to be applied to the spade or share,
after the moldboard was laid aside.
In working with this tool, the laborer pro-
ceeds without stopping to divide the sods into
short lengths ; this part being done by women
and
144 SOIL AND MANAGEMENT.
and children ; who follow, to break the turf
into lengths, and set the pieces on edge, to
dry.
The PRICE for " spading'* is about three
halfpence, a square perch, of 1 8 feet, or six-
teen or seventeen shillings a statute acre.
Formerly, it is probable, this instrument
was much in use ; but, at present, it appears
to be chiefly in the hands of small farmers.
The instrument at present used, for sepa-
rating the spine or grassy turf from the soil,
by farmers in general, is the common team
PLOW, with some little alteration in the size
and form of the share ; according to the fancy
or judgement of the farmer or his plowman ;
there being two diticrent ways of performing
the operation. The one is termed *' Veiling,"
the oilier " Skirting," or *' Skirwinking."
For VELLiNG, the share is made wade, with
the angle or outer point of the wing, or fin,
turned upward, to sepai-ate the turt' entirely
from tlie soil.
For SKIRTING, the common share is used;
but made, perhaps, somewhat wider than
\\ hen it is used in the ordinary operation of
plowing.
'In this mode of using the plow, little more
than half the sward is pared olT; turning the
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 145
part raised, upon a line of unmoved turf; as
in the operation of rice-balking, or half plow-
ing. The paring of turf, in this case, is from
one to two inches thick, on the coulter mar-
gin, decreasing in thickness to a thin feather
edge, by which it adheres to the unmoved
sward.
Having lain some time in this state, to rot
or grow tender, it is pulled to pieces with
** drags" — rough harrows, drawn across the
lines of turf; and, having lain in this rough
state, until it be sufficiently dry, it is bruised
with a 7'oUer, and immediately harrowed, with
lighter harrow s ; walking the horses one way,
and trotting them the other ; to shake the
earth out more effectually from among the
roots of the grass ; going over the ground
again, and perhaps again, according to the
season, and the judgement of the manager;
until most of the earth be disengaged.
The " BEAT," or fragments of turf, being
sufficiently dry, it is gathered into heaps of
about five or six bushels each ; either with the
** DRUDGE," — mentioned under the Section
Implements, — first into rows, and then, draw-
ing it along the rows, into heaps ; or is pull-
ed together with long-toothed HA^'D rakes,
adapted to the purpose. The former is more
VOL. I. L expeditious.
146 SOIL AND MANAGEMENT.
expeditious, and requires fewer hands ; the
latter gathers the beat cleaner, — freer from
soil ; which is liable to be drawn together
by the drudge.
The " BEAT BURROWS,'* or heaps, being
rounded, and shook up light and hollow, a
wisp of rough straw, — a large handful, — is
thrust, double, into the A\'indward side of
each heap : and, a number of heaps being
thus primed, a match or flambeau is formed,
"with ** reed" or straight un thrashed straw ;
one end of which being lighted, it is applied,
in succession, to the loose ragged ends of tlie
wisps of straw ; which readily communicate
the fire to the heaps.
The centre of the heaps being consumed,
^e outskirts are thrown lightly into the
dimples or hollows, and tlie heaps rounded
up, as at first ; continuing to right up the
burrows until the whole of the beat be con-
sumed, or changed y by the action o\ the fire.
The produce of the first skirting being
burnt, and spread over the surface, the ope-
ration is sometimes repeated ; by running the
plow across tlie hnci^ of the first skirting :
thus paring ott the principal part of the spine;
again dragging, rolling, harrowing, collect-
ing, and burning, as in the former operation.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 147
General Remarks ox Sodburning.
HAYING formerly spoken, at some length;
on this subject, the less is requisite to be said
at present*. Nevertheless, the practice of
this countr}^ (to which I was a stranger when
I ^Tote those remarks), tending to confirm
the ideas which are therein offered ; and this
District being, in all probability, the foun*
tain and source of the practice, in these king-
doms, it would be improper to dismiss a to-
pic, which is of considerable importance td
the rural concerns of the Island, without
taking a retrospective view of the process,
in this quarter of it.
There needs not a better proof, that the
practice, under the guidance of discretion, is
not destructive to soils, nor any way dan-
gerous to Agriculture, than the fact, so fully
ascertained here, that after a constant use of
it, during, perhaps, a long succession of ages,
the soil still continues to be productive ; and,
under management in other respects below
par, continues to yield a rent equivalent to
that drawn from lands of equal quality, in
more enlightened Districts : and there ap-
pears
• See Yorkshire, Vol. I. p, 291.
L 2
h8 soil and managemlnt.
pears to mc strong reason to imaprine, that,
under the present course of nmnagewcnt, sod-
burning is essential to success. Indeed, in-
stances are mentioned, and pretty well au-
thenticated, in which men, w ho stood liigli
in their profession, and of sulficicnt capitals,
have been injured or brought to poverty,
through their being restricted from this prac-
tice; which may be said to tbrm a principal
wheel in the present machine or system of.
the Devonshire husbandry. For it is observ-
able, that the Wheat crops of this District,
after the burning, liming, and one plowing,
which will be mentioned in describing the
culture of that crop, notwithstanding the ac-
cumulated foulness of the soil, already de-
scribed, are, in general, beautifully clean ;
and this, tho the succeeding crop of Bar-
ley may be foul in the extreme : a circum-
stance, perhaps, which would be dilficult
to explain, in any other way, than in the
check which the weeds rccei\e, from the
burning. The imperfect tillage, of one plow-
ing and a chopping, cannot be allowed to
have much share, in producing (his husband?
like etfect.
Let it not, however, be understood, that
any focts, \\ Inch arc liere brought forward,
\\T:ST DEVONSHIRE. 149
are intended to shew the necessity of sod-
burning, in this or any other District. To
three fourths of the Island, the practice may
be said to be unknown ; yet in many parts
of this unburnt surface of countr}', if not
throughout the whole of it, the present state
of husbandry is preferable to that of Devon-
shire ; and, whenever clean fallows, and
suitable fallow crops, shall be introduced,
here, and judiciously mixed with the grain
crops, agreeably to the practice of modern
husb:mdrv, burning; beat will certainly be no
longer required.
In fact, the upland soils of this countiy are
ill adapted to the practice. The soil under
ordinarily good management, is, in its nature,
productive of clean sweet herbage ; and,
under a proper course of husbandry, never
would become coarse and rough-skinned, so
as to require this operation : Avhich is, as has
heretofore been remarked, peculiarly adapted
to old coarse tough sward, whether of dry
land or wet, light land orhea^y ; and, m much
probability, to cold retentive soils, as often
as a suitable rotation of crops will permit*.
Tliat burning the grassy sward of land acts
as
* See Yorkshire, Vol. I. p. 293.
L 3
150 SOIL AND MANAGEMENT.
as a STIMULUS to the soil is every where ob-
servable : in this District, I saw a striking
instance of it. A meagre thin-soiled swell,
never worth half a crown an acre, has, by
burning and hming, been stimulated to throw-
out, part after part, ample crops of wheat:
which, however, were found to exhaust the
soil, so completely, that no after crops of
grain were attempted ; but the land was suf-
l^red to lay down again to rest, and yet re-
mains in a state of still less value, perhaps,
than it was in, before it was broken up for
wheat.
This, however, is not an evidence against
the operation of sodburning ; but the reverse.
The value of the wheat, thu^ produced, was
probably equal to that of the fee simple value
of the land it grew on ; which, if a grateful
return, of part of this value received, had
been made, would probably have been put
into a much better state than it was in, be-
fore it underwent this profitable operation.
Does not lime, when used alone, act in
some sort as a stimulus ? Does not tillage
act as a stimulus r Yet will any one assert
that calcareous earths and tillage are un-
friendly to agriculture r
From what 1 have seen, in this countr}',
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 151
of the effects of sodburning, I am more and
more convinced, that, in many cases, and
under discreet management, it forms a valu-
able part of British husbandry ; and may be-
come an instrument of real improvement, in
places where it is not, at present, known ;
especially in bringing the waste lands of
the Island into a proper course of cultiva-
tion *.
Political Agriculture appears to me to
be highly interested in the continuance of this
practice ; which men, who farm in closets,
seem desirous to extinguish. But let them
theorize with caution ; and go forth into the
field of practice, before they venture to draw
inferences, which may prove subversive of
the public good they doubtlessly intend to
promote.
Men of landed property, however, ought
to regard this practice, with a watchful eye.
Through its means, a tenant has it in his
power to enrich himself, at the expence of
his landlord. And altho, while he is doing
this, he may be enriching the Public ; yet
proprietors, considered as such, have an un-
doubted
♦ For remarks on the means of cultivating waste
LAKDSj see Yorkshire, Vol. I. p. 296.
L 4
152 SOIL AND MANAGEMENT.
doubted right to guard their property. But
let them not, by an ill judged and narrow-
minded poUcy, injure, at once, the Pubhc,
their tenants, and themselves. It may be
prudent to restrict tenants, in certain cases,
from the use of this practice ; but to debar
them from it, in all cases, would be equally
impolitic, as to restrict them from the use of
calcareous earths ; or, as is too often the
-ease, to debar them from the use of the plow,
where the application of it would be bene-
ficial to themselves, to their tenants, and to
the community. This is, in truth, laying up
their talents in napkins.
In every case, tx which a landlord
gives up speclvl advantages to a tenant,
he ought to be paid down a reasonable
co^sideration for such advantages; or
the tenant should bind himself to pay,
during a suitable term, an equivalent
RENT.
References to Minutes.
7. On the imperfect tillage of Devonshire.
1 1. On plowing with whip reins.
lO. On freeing arable soils from stones.
17. On reclaiming them from weeds.
T-. General remarks on fallowing.
SQ. On plowing with two oxen, in yoke;
with reins.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 153
IVr A N U R E S
AND
THEIR ^MANAGEMENT.
THE manures, at present in use, in this
part of the Island, are,
I. Dung,
II. Sea sand, and
III. Lime*.
I. DUNG. This is either yard dung, or
what is called " Plymouth duxg ;" the lat-
ter arising from the scrapings of the streets,
with ashes and offal of every kind, which
populous towns afford, and which, when
appUed to lands that have not been accus-
tomed to additions of that nature, seldom
fail of producing, for a time at least, a favor-
able effect f .
In
* On the coast, especially of Cornwall, the refuse
of the PILCHARD FISHERIES, and Sometimes DAMAGED
PILCHARDS, in quantity, are used as manure.
t But see Min. 60, on the transient effect of this
species of manure.
154 MANURE AND MANAGEMENT.
In regard to the raising of vard ]VL\?iURE,
I have met ^^'ith nothing commendable,
here. Farm yards are without form, and un-
guarded from extraneous w ater : nor are they
supplied with mold or other absorbent sub-
stances, to imbibe and retain the superfluous
juices of the dung.
II. SEA SAND. This has been a ma-
nure of the District, bevond memorv, or
tradition.
There are two species still in use. The
one bearing the ordinary appearances of sea
sand, as found at the mouths of rivers ;
namely, a compound of common sand and
mud. The other appears, to the eye, clean
fragments of broken shells, without mixture ;
resembling, in color and particles, clean-
dressed bran of ^^'heat.
By analysis, one hundred grains of the
former contain about thirty grains of com-
mon siliceous sea sand, with a few grains of
fine silt or mud ; the rest is calcareous earth
(35 grains), mixed with mud and the animal
matttT of marine shells.
One hundred grains of the latter contain
eightyfive grains of the matter of shells, and
fifteen 2i*i*ins of an carthv substance, which
resembles, in color and particles, minute frag-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. «5S
ments of burnt clay, or the dust of common
red bricks.
These sands are raised in different parts
of Plymouth Sound, or in the harbour, and
are carried up the estuaries, in barges ; and
from these, on horseback, perhaps five or
gix miles, into the country ; of course at a.
very great expence : yet without discrimina-
tion, by men in general, as to their specific
qualities. The shelly kind, no doubt, brought
them into repute, and induced landlords to
bind their tenants to the use of them ; but
without specifying the sort ; and the barge-
men, of course, biing such as they can raise,
and convey, at the least labor and expence*.
But the use of sea sand has been for some
time on the decline, in this quarter of the
count}', and is now in a great measure super-
seded, by
III. LIME. This species of manure, I
understand, has been more or less used, here,
for
* It is probable that the specimen first mentioned, is
above par, as to quaht)-. I have seen sand of a much
cleaner appearance, travelling towards the fields of this
quarter of the country : and, near Blddeford, in North
Devonshire, I collected a specimen, under the operation
of " melling" with mold, which contains eighty grains
percent of clean flinty sand I
156 MANURE AND MANAGEMENT.
for about sixty years : a proof that, hereto-
fore, the West of England stood forward in
Rural Improvements.
The only species in use is burnt from a
variegated stone, or marble, raised near Ply-
mouth; and carried up the different estuaries;
along the banks, and at the heads of which
there are kilns, wherein great quantities are
burnt ; by men who make a business of burn-
ing it.
The LnfE kilns of Devonshire are large,
and of an expensive construction ; some of
Ihem costing not less than thirty or forty
pounds, each. But their duration is in pro-
portion : one which has been built thirty
years is still firm and sound on the outside.
The walls are of extraordinary thickness ;
wide enough, on the top, for horses to pass
round the kiln, and to deliver the stones.
The body or inside of the Devonshire kihi
is not well formed. The sides are too
straight ; the cavity is not sufficiently oval, —
is too conical, — too narrow in the middle,
and wide at the top, — the contents, of course,
hang,— do not settle down, freely, and even-
ly, — as they do in 9 well shaped kiln *. The
* 1804. The West Devonshire kilns are toow under-
going the required alteration.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 157
rim is guarded with a curb of large moor-
stones.
The stones are brought up from the water
side, on horseback, or upon mules or asses;
and, being distributed round the top of the
kiln, they are there broken, and thrown into
it with shovels; without the extra trouble
of carrying them in baskets : a saving, pro-
bably, which counterbalances the apparently
extra expence of carr} ing up the unbroken
stones, on horseback, instead of in carts : so
that we have, here, as in many other instances
in Rural Management, two roads, of similar
length and expediency, leading to the same end.
The Fuel chiefly, gr wholly, Welsh cidm^.
Lime
For elementary remarks on the Lime Furnace, see
Tkeatise on Landed Property.
* 1804. I have lately observed, on the Southern skirts
of Dartmore, — near Ilslngton, — an instance of burning
lime stone, wlthjaggots (of furze) in a manner similar to
that in which chalk is burnt, in the Southern Coun-
ties : a practice which I find is not uncommon in that
neighbourhood.
The stone is a hard black marble (similar to that of
Chudleigh} in large blocks. The oven or fire place, is
here built by masons : — the forming of it not being a
mystery of hmeburners, as it i^in Sussex. The kiln, to
which 1 more particularly attended (larger than the Sussex
kiln) requires (I was told by an intelligent countryman)
to
I5S MANURE AND MANAGER^NT.
Lime is separated into two sorts, at the
kiln. Those who carry it to a great distance,
on horseback, take only the clean knobs, or
** STONE LIME ;" the ashes and rubbish being
sold, at a lower price, to those who have
lands at a shorter distance from the kilns,
under the name of " lime ashes." This is
a vers^ accurate practice, when lime is carried
to a great distance *.
Upon the whole, the manufacturing of
lime may be said to be well conducted, in
this country; and the preparation of it, for
manure, is entitled, at least on the score of
industry, to still higher praise, and to a mi-
nute description.
Previously to fetching the lime, " earth
ridges" arc formed in the field; either with
mold hacked from the borders of it, or with
the soil of the area, raised with the plow.
The earth thus raised is broken into small
fragments, and formed into long narrow
beds. Upon these earth ridges the stone
lime is laid ; and coverctl up with the out-
skirts of the beds.
t6 be kept on fire s't.v days !— consuming in that time
6,000 faggots. This may or may not be the fact.
• Lime a.<hcs are also used for the cement of ordinary'
buildings : the cinder serving, in part at least, as a- substi-
tute of $and.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 159
When the lime has burst the covering,
and is found to be sufficiently fallen, the
ridges are " melled ;" the earth and lime are
intimately mixed together ; in a very ingenious
and effectual manner. The workman begins
at one end of the ridge ; and, with a hack
or single-ended mattock, hacks down the
heap ; mixing the whole intimately, by beat-
ing it with the side of the hack ; raising it
up again with the point, and again hitting it
sideway, with a slight and dexterity to be
acquired only by practice. When the two
ingredients are sufficiently blended, the com-
post is thrown back, with a shovel, and
formed into a roof-like heap ; still continuing
to burst any lumps which the hack had
missed, wdth the back of the shovel, and to
mingle the parts as evenly as possible.
In these ridges the compost remains, until
the time of spreading.
Lime compost is spread from the ridges,"
or angular heaps above described, by means
of slide buts, or of wheelbarrows. A\Tien
the latter are used, it is proper to harrow
and roll the surface, before the operation
commences.
Gexebal
x6o MANURE AND MANAGEMENT.
General Remarks on the Application
OF Lime as a Manure.
THE right application of lime to the soil,
has long appeared to me a subject which de-
sen'es the strictest investigation. In Nor-
folk, marl being the prevailing calcareous
manure, I paid the less attention to lime.
In Yorkshire, lime has long been depended
upon, as a principal agent, in the production
of arable crops. In that District, therefore,
I paid much attention to the subject *. In
Glocestersiiire, it can scarcely be said
to enter into the list of manures. But, in
the Midland Counties, it has, for some
time past, been in full estimation ; and some
considerable attention is paid to its apphca-
tion ; especially in watering and turning over
the load heaps, before they be spread out
upon the soil f .
In the application of lime to soil, as a
manure, the perfection of management ap-
pears to be, from what is at present publicly
known on the subject, the incorporation of
the two substances, into one homogeneous
, mass ; or, at least, to mix the lime in a state
• See YoKKSHiRH, Vol. I. p. 328.
t See Midland Counties, Vol. I. p. 151.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. i6i
of powder, with some portion of soil, in
order to separate its pai'ticles, and prevent
their adhering in lumps, and returning, in
this form, to a state of chalk or marl : for
altho Lime reduced to that state may not be
lost to the soil, as a manure, it probably does
not act as Lime, but as Marl ; and, of course,
a given quantity of Lime, laid on in whole
stones or large fragments, will not produce
the same effect, in a given time, as it would
have done, had it been more evenly distri-
buted, — more mechanically assimilated with
the soil.
There are two widely differing methods of
effecting this mechanical union. The one is
to reduce the soil to a fine tilth ; to spread
the Lime evenly over it, in a state of povrder;
and to mix them together, avith the roller
AND harrow, until the whiteness of the
Lime disappears : suffering them to remain
in this state, if the season will admit of it,
until a fall of rain has carried downward the
finer particles of the Lime, and impregnated
the substance of the soil with the calcareous
principle.
The other method is to mix the Lime, by
.HAND, with a certain portion of soil collected
VOL. I. M for
j62 manure and management.
for that purpose ; a^eeably to the practice
of the District under view.
In a favorable climate ; in the summer
season ; and where a sufficient quantity of
Lime can be readily collected ; there can be
no doubt as to the superiority of the first
method : it is more expeditious, much less
expensive, and infinitely more complete.
But, in a less certain climate and season,
and where tlie business of fetching Lime goes
on slowly, — continuing, perhaps, through the
summer months, — the Devonshire practice,
unless the Lime were lodged under cover,
until the land \Nere ready to receive it, is
certainly the most eligible. The great ob-
jection to it is the labor and expence whicli
it incurs. The *' hacking of vurheads,"—
the forming of *' earth ridges," tlie '' mell-
ing," and *' setting about lime and earth"
may be said to employ a set of laborers the
summer through.
Experiencing the tcdiousness and inconve-
niency of these operations, and seeing the
"wetness and uncertainty of the climate, with
respect to ** burning Beat," it struck rae that
much time would be saved, and a degn^ of
certainty gained, by uniting tlie t^^-o opera-
tions of preparing Lime, and burning Beat :
4
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 163
tiamely, by burning the Beat with the Lime ;
and by mixing the Lime with the ashes and
soil of the Beat : thus saving, on either
hand, much labor ; setting the season, as it
were, at defiance (for the wetter the Beat
the quicker is the operation of the Lime) ;
and at the same time, destroying the roots
and seeds of weeds, with the eggs of insects
and animalcula of various kinds ; and this,
perhaps, with less injurv' to the vegetable
matter of the Beat, than by the ordinary
process of combustion. Strongly impressed
with these ideas, I set about carrying them
into execution. The result will appear, in
Minute 32.
For remarks on coal ashes, as a species of
manure, see Minute Oo.
10.
SEMINATION.
I GATHERED no general information,
respecting this department of the arable ^fa-
nagement, in the District under \'\Q\y. Every
thing is sown broadcast. A modern drill
made its appearance some years ago; but it
has been laid aside.
M 2 The
1 64 MAXAGEMEKT OF GROWING CROPS.
The method of seminating the AVheat
crop, here, is singular. It w-iJl appear in its
place ; under the hrad AVueat.
I I.
THE MANAGEMENT
OF
GROWING CROPS.
THE ^Management of Crops during their
Growth, is confined to hand- weeding, which
is performed with ordinarv care. The no-
IXG of Field Crops has not yet been intro-
duced: not even for TlrnepsI as will appear
under that head.
The VERMIN of arable crops are be-
low par, in number and destructiveiiess.
Game is kept within bounds : there are
few Hares, and no Pheasant?.
PiGEoxs are not numerous.
Rooks, in some places, are evident)} too
j)umerou«;.
Sparrows arc in considerable number ;
and require to be checked : a business which
rests with Farmers; who can have no color
of complaint against Gentlciiien for encourag-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 165
ing rooks, while the more injurious Sparrows
are suffered to remain in force.
AViLD DEER were formerly common, in
the woods of this District, and were found
very injurious to the bordering crops. But,
through the good offices of the late Duke of
Bedford, the country is now (1796) nearly
free from them.
12.
HARVESTING.
THE Han'cst ^lanagement, at present
established in the District, has evidentlv risen
out of the practice of carrying home han^est
produce on horseback, for altho this prac-
tice has in some degree been laid aside, the
operations of Hanest (that of carrying ex-
cepted) are the same as they were, before
the introduction of wheel carriages.
Every article of corn produce is bouxd ;
even the rakings of barley and oats that have
been mown ! But tliis, in the horseback
husbandry, was perfectly right. Sheaves, or
bundles of any sort, are not only much fitter
for loading between crooks, but are handier
to be pitched, or rather flung, from the ground
M 3 or
l66 HARVESTING.
or floor, to the top of the rick or mow, in the
manner that will be described, than loose
corn. I have seen Takings wasted ; because
there was not time to bind them, before
the rain set in ; tho waggons were standing
bj, to receive them.
Formerly, it seems, loose corn, which
had been cut m ith the sithe, was " led" in
" trusses, * — or large bundles, each a horse
load, bound together with two ropes, and
laid across a ** pannel" or pad saddle (with-
out crooks), and steadied or *' led" by a wo-
man or youth, from the field. This was
called ** tiTiSs leading" or " leading" — a term
which is common at this time, in the North
of England, and in Scotland, for carrying,
haulmg, or drawing hay, corn, or other ar-
ticle, on a carnage ; and which, perhaps,
owes its origin to an obsolete and forgotten
practice, of a similar nature, in those Pro-
vinces.
In a general view, the Harvest Manage-
ment of this District is below that of many
others : nevertheless it differs, in various
respects, from that of every other part of the
kingdom ; and certainly merits a place, in a
register of the present Practice of English
Husbandrv.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 167
The particulars which require to be de-
tailed are these :
I. Hewing Wheat, and Raking the
Stubbles,
II. Setting up Shucks.
III. ]Making Arrisli jNIows.
IV. Turning Corn in Swath.
V. Binding Oats and Barley out of
Swath.
VI. Carrying Sheaves on Horseback.
VII. Pitching them to the Mow or Stack,
VIII. The Form of Corn Stacks.
IX. Thatching Corn Stacks.
I. HEWING WHEAT. This is a kind
of mowing with one hand. The " Yowing
Hook" is formed much like the commoa
sharp-edged " hand reaping hook" of this
and other places ; but somewhat larger every
way — longer, broader, and stouter ; with a
hooked knob at the end of the handle, to pre-
vent its slipping out of the hand.
With this instrument, the corn is stnick
at, horizontally, and almost close to the
ground, with the one hand ; while the other
hand and arm sfjilce it, at the same instant,
about the middle of the straw; thus driving
it, upright, against the standing corn : the
workman taking a sweep, round as much as
M 4 will
i6S har\t:stixg.
will form a sheaf, and collecting the whole
together, in the center, in a sort of leaning
cone; finally striking the hook under its
base, to disengage it entirely from the soil ;
but stiil supporting it, with the left or loose
arm and the leg, until the hook be put be-
neath it, to hft it, horizontally, to the band.
In variation of this method, I have seen
the hewer force his way up one side of a
narrow ridge, against the wind, and back on
the other side ; thus collecting half a sheaf;
and then fetching another half sheaf in the
same manner.
This practice is not peculiar to the West of
England? it has long been in use, in the
Southern Counties of Kent and Surrey :
where, however, it is considered as a slovenly
and bad practice. If a crop of wheat be free
from weeds, and stand well upon its legs,
this method of cutting is expeditious and
elipble enough : but if the corn be lodged
or ravelled, or foul at the bottom, with green
succulent weeds, it is altogether improper:
indeed, in the former case, it requires expert
workmen to make good work.
This method, it is true, atTords longer
straw (more and better " reed") than reaping
does ; ana this may be another motive for
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 169
using it. But a sithe, in good hands, will
make equal or better work, is more expedi-
tious, and cuts still closer to the ground.
To secure the scattered corn, which this
loose method of cutting leaves upon the
ground, women or boys collect and set up
the sheaves ; and are followed by women
with RAKES, to draw together the loose corn:
GLEANING being seldom permitted, until the
shucks be out of the fields *.
II. SHUCKS are here formed of ten
sheaves, set up in an extraordinary manner.
Nine of them are crowded together in a square
pyramid, of three sheaves every way, and
the tenth is put over them, as a cloak or
hood.
This is evidently a bad practice. The close
posture of the sheaves prevents a circulation
of air among them ; the center sheaf being
wholly excluded from it. And, in most
cases,
* Another distinguishing trait of the Devonshire
Husbandry is marked, by the Harvest Holla, —
which is here given when the cutting of wheat is finished;
and not according to the ordinary custom of England,
when the last load of Corn is drawing home.
1804. The same custom is observable in South Wales;
where much ceremony is used on the occasion. It is
probably of Celtic origin.
J70 HARVESTING.
cases, the covering is very imperfect ; one
sheaf, unless it is very large and the straw
very long, is not sufficient to secure the rest
from rain water ; but rather serves to conduct
it into the centers of the upright sheaves.
Shucks of ten sheaves, vvitli eight set up
in a double row, and with two inverted as
hoods or thatch, are much more secure and
eligible.
III. '^ARRISH MOWS"— or Field Stack-
lets. In a late harvest, and in a moist cli-
mature, like that of West Devonshire and
Cornwall, especially after a wet summer,
which seldom fails of lilling the butts of corn
'sheaves with green succulent herbage, — se-
curing the ears from injury, and at the Siimc
time exposing the butts to the intluence of
the atmosphere, is, self-evidently, an ad-
mirable expedient.
They are of various sizes. Those which
I have observed, generally contained about a
waggon load of sheaves. But they may be
made of any size from a shuck often sheaves
to a load.
The method of making them is this : a sort
of flat cone, or pyramid, being formed with
sheaves set upon their butts, and leaning to-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 171
wards the center, the workman gets upon
them, on his knees ; an assistant putting
sheaves, in their proper places, before him ;
while he crawls round the *' mow;" tread-
ifig them, in this manner, with his knees,
applied about the banding place ; and con-
tinuing thus, to lay course after course, until
the mow be deemed high enough : observing
to contract the dimensions as it rises in
height, and to set the sheaves more and more
upright, until they form, at the top, a sharp
, point, similar to that of nine sheaves set up
as a shuck ; and, like this, it is capped with
an inverted sheaf, either of corn or of "reed:"
the principle, and the form when finished,
being the same in both ; namely, a square
pyramid : a form which would seem to have
been taken from the pyramidal shuck *.
Where corn is put up into these little stacks
it is considered as safe, and is suffered to
stand som^e weeks in them. I have seen
sheep
* Have not these practices been imported from the
Continent?
1804. Arrish Mows, or Field Stacklets, are equally
or more prevalent, in Wales ; — particularly in Pembroke-
shire, and Carmarthenshire. Perhaps the practice is
purely Celtic,
172 HAR VESTING.
sheep feeding in the stubble, while the corn
was standing in these piles f .
The onlv disadvantage, that is mentioned,
of this mode of harvesting (which is appli-
cable to oats or barley as well as to wheat),
is that of mice being thereby liable to be
ronveved from the field to the barn. But,
(]i»ere, do field mice remain long in a barn ?
A more probable disadvantage is that of its
rendering the corn difiicult to be thrashed.
IV. TURNING CORN SWATHS. This
I have seen done, by hand. The Corn, be-
insr <rathered up carefully in the hands and
arms, the turners face about, and spread it
evenlv upon fresh dry ground. This is an
accurate mode of turning ; and a good prepa-
ration for binding. But the turning of Corn
Swaths is more generally done with slender
poles, cut out of the hedges, six or eight feet
Ion"", about the size of a fiail handle, and
somewhat crooked : a tool which I have seen
•used in other Districts. It is incomparably
preferable to the head of the Rake, or the
tines of the Prong; being peculiarly well
adapted to the purpose of lifting over the
t In Somersetshire, 1 have observed stubble Turneps
growing between rows of Arrlsh Mows.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 173
Swaths ; and ought to be everywhere in
use*.
V. BINDING CORN SWATHS. In
general, however, the Harvesting of mown
Corn is done in a slovenly manner. The
mowing is roughly performed, and the bind-
ing executed in a still coarser wav. In har-
vesting Oats, which had stood too long before
they were cut, 1 have seen one fourth, if not
one third, of the crop left shed upon the
ground. In common practice, a very con-
siderable share of the crop is harvested in
the form of rakings ; so much being left on
the stubble, after the sheaves are removed,
that it requires to be raked both ways ; name-
ly, to be gone over twice ; the second raking
being done across the first.
In binding, the Swaths are rolled into
** skoves," with short rakes ; the band
stretched over the bundle ; the ends, one in
each hand, forced beneath it ; the bundle
lifted
* I have elsewhere assigned my reason for descending
to the Minutice of the Harvest Management. (See Mid.
Count. Minute 102.) The task of registering the
Manual Operations of Husbandry is irksome In the ex-
treme. And nothing but a full conviction of its utility
could induce me to perform it.
tj4 HARVESTING.
lifted up, turned over, and the tn'istcd ends of
the band tucked in : an expeditious method.
If the crop be short, "reed" is used for
binding it : it was with the utmost difficulty
I had a field of barley, — -s\ hich, through the
thinness of the soil and dryness of the sum-
mer, was too short for bands, and which
was clean, and in the highest order for stack-
ing, — carried to the stack in waggons, with-
out the expence and trouble of tying it up in
bundles.
In a climate so uncertain as that of West
Devonshire ; and most especially in a late
harvest ; setting up mown corn in singlets,
agreeably to the practice of the North of
England, would, I am convinced, be the
most eligible practice. For the method of
setting up com in this manner, see York-
shire, Vol. J. page 253.
180-1. I have since observed some in-
stances of this practice.
VI. In carrying SHEAF CORN on
HORSEBACK,* the Sheaves are packed in,
between the crooks, head to tail, with the
butts outward, and carried up, even ; piling
the load considerably above the horse's
back. The lower part of the load is laid in,
by hand, the upper part piled up with a fork;
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 175
which being set firmly under one of the cross
bars of the crooks, a rope, previously thrown
over, is pulled down tight and fastened ; the
fork being a stay or purchase to pull against.
A string of horses being thus laden, a boy
travels them soberly to the barn or rick yard ;
where they are unloaded, by pushing back
the upper part of tlie load with the fork,
throwing it over the tail of tlie horse, upon
the floor, or to the ground, a cloth being
generally spread to receive it * : the crooks
being finally cleared, by hand, in rather an
immechanical manner.
The whole string unloaded, the boy mounts,
and, standing upright between the crooks,
trots, or perhaps gallops, his horses back to
the field ; frequently, to the no small dismay,
or perhaps injury, of peaceful travellers. A
somewhat uncivilized practice.
VII. PITCHING CORN SHEAVES. The
Sheaves being thus left upon the floor or the
ground, without any advantage from a car-
riage, an expedient (where the mow or stack
rises to a height above the reach of an ordi-
nary
* Hence, ihe use of a door, with a platform and road-
way, on the higher side of the barn : see page 59. I
have seen a rick yard, on a similar plan.
176 HAR\'ESTIN'G.
nary fork) has been struck out, and brought,
by practice and the emulation of young men,
to an extraordinary degree of shght and ex-
pcrtness. In this case, the sheaves SLreflungy
provincially " pitched" from the point of a
prong, formed very narrow in the tines, over
the head of tlie pitcher, who stands with his
back to the mow ; a boy placing the sheaves
fairly before him. I have seen a man thus
PITCHING SHEAVES, from Icvcl ground, up to
the roof of a stack above the ordinar\^ height,
throwing them several feet above the reach
of his fork.
The spring is gained, either by the arms
and the k'lee jointly; or is done at arms
length. When the heiglit is very great, or
the sheaves heavy, two men's exertions, it
seems, are joined : one man placing the tines
of his fork imder the '' stem" or handle of
the other !
Much probably depends on the forming of
the tines of the prong: they contract up-
wards to an acute angle : the sheaves, of
course, part from them with a degree of
spring, given by the straw compressed be-
tween them.
Ylll. The rORxM of STACKS. The stem
is usually carried up square, and high ; but
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 177
the root is made very flat, and hipped, or
sloped on every side : so that the roof, which
in many Districts contains nearly one third
of the contents of the stack, does not here,
perhaps, contain a sixth part. The difficulty
of pitching from the ground, and the excel-
lency of*' reed" as a thatch, may have assisted
in fixing this prevailing fashion.
IX. The method of THATCHING
STACKS, in ^Vest Devonshire, is very judi-
cious and eflectual. The " reed" is spread
thinly and evenly over the roof, and is fas-
tened \\'ith '* spars" or hazel rods, pegged
down to the butts of the sheaves, and covered
by the next course of '' reed," in the manner
in which real reed is laid, in Norfolk.
But, in Cornwall, I saw the reed fastened
on with straw ropes, stretched horizontally,
within a few inches of each other ; as in the
Highlands of Scotland !
General Observation. Upon the whole,
the business of Harvest, except in as much
as relates to the Field Management of mown
Corn, and the forming of ^^^leat Shucks,
may be said to be well conducted, in this
District. It is true, that corn hi general is
here allowed less field room, or time between
the cutting and the carrying, than it is in
VOL. I. X most
178 HARN-ESTED CROPS.
most other places ; but, seeing the uncer-
taint J ot the climate, in this peninsular situ-
ation, the deviation is evidently on the right
side.
The management oi
HARVESTED CROPS.
IN this department of the Devonshire hiis-
bandrv, there are two or three peculiarities
of practice w hich require to be registered.
HOUSING STACKS by HAND is not
uncommon. Under the horse-and- crook sj's-
tem, it is perfectly eligible ; and, where car-
riages are in use, it is comparatively more
expeditious, than an East-countryman vrould
readily allow. In an irtstance noticed, five
men housed about eight loads of wheat, in
seven or eight hours. Two men, upon the
'stack, bound the sheaves, in bundles of ten
each, with ropes, and let them down, upon
•the shoulders of otlier two men, who carried
them to the barn, from thirtv to fortv vards
distance, and handed them up to the fifth
man, on the mow. 'Hiis remainder of a stack
would have broken deeply into the day's
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 179
work of a team ; and, in a busy time, would
have cost twice the money that the wages of
these five men amounted to ; which, at a
shilling a day, was not more than three or
four shilUngs.
The method of THRASHING WHEAT,
in this District, and throughout the West of
England, is too singular to be passed without
notice. While straw continues to be used as
thatch, the practice is Iiighly profitable.
The object of this method of Thrashing
(which is applicable to rye, as well as to
wheat), is to extract the grain from the ear,
with the least possible injury to the straw.
To this end, the ears are either thrashed
lightly w^ith the flail, or they are beaten
across a cask, by hand ; until the grain be
got pretty well out of them; If the corn
is smutty, the latter is the more eligible me-
thod.
The next operation is to suspend the straw,
in large double handfuls, in a short rope, fixed
high above the head, with an iron hook at
the loose end of it ; which is put twice round
the little sheaflet, just below the ears, and
fastened with the hook's laying hold of the
tight part of the rope. The left hand being
now firmly placed upon the hook, and pull-
N 2 ing
i8o HARVKSTED CROPS.
ing do\\7i\vard, so as to twitch the straw
hard, and prevent the ears from shpping
through it, the butts are freed from short
straws and weeds, with a small long-toothed
rake, or comb. This done, the rope is un-
hooked, and the " reed" laid evenly in a heap.
A quantity of clean, straight, unbruised
straw, or " reed," being thus obtained, it is
formed into small sheaves, returned to the
iioor, and the ears thrashed again with the
fiail, or is again thrashed by hand over the
cask, to free it effectually from any remain-
ing grain, w^hich the former beating might
have missed.
Lasth', the reed is made up into large
bundles — provincially " sheaves" — of thirty-
six pounds each ; with all the ears at one end ;
the butts being repeatedly punched upon the
floor, first in double handfuls, aud then in
the sheaf, until they are as even, as if they
had been cut off smooth and level, with a
sithe, or other long cdgetool ; while the
straws lie as straight, and are almost as stout,
as those of inferior reedy or stems of the
A run do.
It is not for the purpose of thatch, only,
that the straw of \\heat is carefully preserved
from the action of the tiail ; but for the pur-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. iSi
pose of litter also ; it being found to last or
wear much longer, in this capacity, tlian
softlv bruised straw ; which mav be said to
be already on the road of decay, and to ha\ e
passed the first stage toward the dunghill.
\V omen sometimes assist their husbands in
the work of thrashing wheat, in this man-
ner; as in beating it over the cask, or in
raking out the loose straw ; as well as in
making up the reed *.
In thrashing barley and oats, the opened
sheaves
* In one instance, I saw a frame, for beating the ears
over, instead of a cask ; the construction somewhat re-
sembling that of a very wide, short, crooked ladder, sup-
ported nearly horizontally, with its convex side upward;
the cross bars being set edgeway, and a few inches froiji
each other; with an angular piece of wood running-
length way through the middle of the frame, and risiqg
above the cross bars,— to separate, and spread with
greater ease, the ears of the corn ; and thereby to render
the strokes the more effective.
1804. Thrashing mills have of late rears been
making their way, rapidly, into Devonshire ; where they
are used, not oniy in thrashing over the whole of the
straw, as in the practice of other Districts, but, by a
simple application, in "making reed:" the ears, only,
being exposed to the action of the beaters ; and are with-
drawn when the grain is discharged. The operation,
however, appears to be slow ; considering the labor and
attendance it requires.
>- 3
i82 HARVESTED CROPS.
sheaves are piled on one side of the floor, and
drawn over, heads-and- tails, to the other;
the thrashers of the Western, as well as of
the Northern, extremity of the Kingdom,
keeping stroke; — and, here, this animating
practice is sometimes extended to four thrash-
ers working in the same barn ; performing a
peal, which, tho monotonous, is not dis-
pleasing to the ear.
" Straw" — namely, fodder straw — is
here bound in very large, long, two-banded
trusses ; no doubt that it may be the more
easily " led" to the place where it may be
wanted. And where carriages are in use, the
practice is continued.
The last particular of Practice, noticeable
under the present head, is that of WIN-
KOWING WITH THE NATURAL WIND.
Farmers of every class (some few excepted)
carry their corn into the field, on horseback,
perhaps a quarter of a mile from the barn,
to the summit of some airy swell ; where it
is winnowed, hy women ! the mistress of the
farm, perhaps, being exposed, in the severest
weather, to the cutting vi inds of winter, in
this slavish, and truly barbarous employ-
ment. The obsolete practice of the Northern
extremity of the Island, in which farmers
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 1,8^
loaded their wives and daughters with dung,
to be carried to the fields on their backs, was
but a httle more uncivihzed. The machine
fan, however, is at length making its way
into the Western extremity.
14.
MARKETS.
Plymouth, and its environs, form the
metropolis of the District, in which its va-
rious products may be said to concenter. The
consumption, there, depends much however
upon the circumstances of War and Peace.
Tavistock, nevertheless, has a good corn
MARKET : a large flour mill, in tliis place, is
conducted with judgement and spirit.
The STOCK FAIRS of the District are chiefly
those of Tavistock ; where very great num-
bers of lean cattle, reared in Cornwall and
West Devonshire, are bought up, by Somer-
setshire and other " East-country" Graziers.
There arc, however, several village fairs.*
in this, as in other parts of the Island.
References to Minutes.
5. Notices, at Tamerton fair.
14. , at Plympton .
N 4 WHEAT,
t$4 MANAGEMENT OF WHEA'i
W H E A T,
AND ITS
PARTICULAR MANAGEMENT,
IN registering the minutial jNIanagement
of this and the other crops of the District, I
shall follo^^' the same Plan of Arrangement,
which I have, on t\evy other occasion, found
it right to pursue.
The SPECIES of Wheat usually cultivated
is the common white Wheat.
SUCCESSION. It is universally sown on
ley ground.
SOIL. It is grown on every sort.
The SOIL PROCESS is mostly that which
has been described, under the general head,
Management of the Soil : namely, that of
cutting or tearing off the sod, and burning
it. But this is not invariably the practice :
sometimes the Ley is broken up by a full
de]»th plowing; which, I think, is called
'* rotting the spine.'* To this succeeds a sort
of rough bastard fallow ; the roots and rub-
bish, which harrow up, being burnt, if the
weather be favorable.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 1S5
MANURE. Formerly, sea sand and dung
were in use. Now chiefly Lime, with per-
haps a small portion of dung. The method
of Liming has been described. See page 158.
SEED PROCESS. This is one of the
many operations, belonging to the established
practice of the District under survey, which
have so little resemblance to the established
practice of the Island at large, that they can
scarcely be considered as belonging to British
husbandry.
A mere Provincialist of the central, or the
Northern, parts of the Island, might travel
through all the countries of Europe, and not
find practices more foreign to his own, than
are those of Devonshire.
The TIME OF SOWING Wheat is late ; the
$eed time continuing from October to near
Christmas. The reason given for late sowing
is, that '* early sown crops are liable to
weeds." This precaution, added to the burn-
ing and the lime (as before mentioned), ac-
counts more fully for the cleanness of the
Wheat crops of this District ; notwithstand-
ing the foulness of the soils, w ith respect to
weed seeds. But in a backward and uncer-
tain climature, late sowing cannot surely be
altogether right.
The
i86 MANAGEMENT OF WHEAT,
The SEED PLOWING, which, in thr ordi-
nary practice of the District, is the only full
depth plowing given for Wheat, takes place
immediately previous to the sowing. The
soil is, I believe, invariably laid up in nar-
row lands ; and, in general, d-lagonally across
the field *. The usual \^idth is tour bouts,
or eight phts ; one pht, or narrow balk, being
left standing f.
Previously to the sowing, the entire sur-
face of the field is hacked over, by hand !
with large hea\'y hoes or hacks : each man
taking two plits; which, in the seed plow-
ing for Wheat, are plowed of a narrow \n idth,
and which, in this operation, are cut into
square clods, tlie size of spits or spade bits :
* Two reasons are given for this practice ; either of
which is a sufficient apology- for it. On steep King grounds,
and when the hedges accord with the line ot dechvity,
oblique ridges check the too rapid descent of rain waters,
and prevent the soil from being washed away. The other
(which from the obser\'ations I have made is less attended
ito) is that of endeavoring to lav the ridges north-and-
south ; in order that ihev may receive the sun's rays
equally on either >ide of them. And other advantages
might be added. See Yorkshibe, on laying lands
ACROSS THE SLOPE.
t The praciice of sowing Wheat on narrow ridges is
common to the West of England : 1 have traced it tc
near Frome, on the border of Wiltshire.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 187
and, it is \ery probable, the practice has
grown out of the hand culture, which, in
every country, doubtlessly, preceded the use
of the plow.
The QUAXTiTT OF SEED runs from two to
two and a half AViii;.hester bushels, an acre.
Sowx^ in separate ridges, and at one cast.
Covered, with light harrows and two
horses.
Adjusted, in an extraordinary manner.
Until very lately, the interfurrows, with the
narrow balks left standing in them, were
universally hacked and shovelled out, bi/
hand ! The unplowed slips, having been re-
duced to fragments with hacks, were thrown
over the ridges, or into hollo\^s or vacancies,
by the sides of the furrows, and the surface
otherwise adjusted, ^^ith shovels. Now, it
is become the more general practice, to open
the furrows with the plow ; a double mold-
board plow being used by some farmers.
The rows or ridgets of mold and clods, forced
up by the plow, on either side of the inter-
furrow, are afterwards pulled upward, and
the surface in general adjusted, with " haul-
to's" — or three-tined dung drags; giving the
ridges, with this rude tool, a degree of finish.
General Observatioxs. It need not be
repeated.
iS8 MANAGEMENT OF WHEAT.
repeated, that the setting about, and the
spreading, of hme and earth, — hacking over
the ridges, and finally adjusting them, require
a great supply of hand labor. Ten acres of
Wheat put into the ground, in the manner
of this District, take up more manual labor,
than fifty acres sown in the ordinary way.
Nevertheless, the labor is not wholly lost ;
the land, beside receiving additional tilth in
the operation, is more evenly seeded, and
M'ith a less quantity of seed, than it would
require without it ; and, in a country- where
labor is plentiful and cheap, it might be
wrong to withhold any part of it ; so long as
the present system of management shall be
pursued.
The other operations, respecting the cul-
ture of Wheat, arc sutnciently explained,
under the general heads*.
The PRODUCE of M'HEAT, by the sfa^
fufe acre, is estimated, on a par of years, at
twenty Winchester bushels.
References to Minutes.
43. On an instance of blight, in a dry season.
50. On other instances of the same.
* An instance of the berbery plant being injurious to
the Wheat crop was circumstantially related to me, in
this District.
\VEST DEVONSHIRE. 189
16.
BARLEY,
AND ITS
IVI A N A G E M E N T.
AFTER what has been said, in describing
the GENERAL OPERATIONS of the ArABLE Ma*
NAGEMENT, little remains to be added, here. .
The SPECIES of Barley grown is chiefly,
or wholly, the common long-eared kind.
Other sorts, it seems, have been tried, but
have been given up for this.
The SUCCESSION. Barley succeeds
Wheat, or Turneps, or sometimes Barley
itself: the last of the three grain crops, which
the present system of aration ?'eqidres, be-
ing in this case Barley, instead of Oats.
The SOIL. Barley is grown on all the
better lands ; which, indeed, are the best
adapted to this grain. On the thinner soils,
towards the Moorsides, Oats are more gene-
rally cultivated.
TILLAGE for Barley. After WTieat, two
plo wings, or rather one plowing and a half:
after
tgo OATS.
after Turneps, one plowing; the stems of
charlock and other weeds being previously
burnt !
MANURE. Seldom any used^ I believe,
for Barley.
SOWING. Time of sowing — April.
Quantity of seed — four bushels and up-
ward ! Method of sowing broadcast,
above.
WEEDING. Universally, I believe, hand-
weeded.
For harvesting, thp^ashing, &c. see the
general heads.
Produce of Barley — from thirty to forty
bushels an acre. It is, of course, a profitable
crop ; and ought frequently to be grown on
lands, which are forced to produce Wheat.
17-
OATS.
THE species mostly black ; as being least
liable to be discoloured in this moist climate.
Tillage, one plowing. Time of sowing,.
February and March. Quantity of seed,
five or six bushels. Produce, not registered.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. H^
Indeed, the culture of this crop being ia
a considerable degree confined to the Moor-
side farms, I paid the less attention to its
culture.
i8.
TURNEPS.
NOTWITHSTANDING the unhusband-
like manner, in which Turneps are still cul-
tivated, in this District, it is more than half
a century since they were introduced into
field culture : — affording strong evidence of
the supineness of the Devonshire husband-
men.
The SPECIES, various ; but not excellent.
The proper method of raising the seed does
not appear to be understood, or is not at-
tended to*.
SUCCESSION. Turneps are invariablv
sown on grass land. There never, perhaps,
had been an acre of turneps grown in the
District, after a grain crop, until the prac-
tice was introduced, a few years ago, at
Buckland.
* For the Norfolk practice, in raising Turnep seed, see
NoRF. Ecox. Vol. J. p, 278.
4
1^2 TURNEPS,
Buckland. Some account of the attendant
circumstances will appear, in Minutes, 18
and 23.
TILLAGE, See. for Turneps, is the same
as for Wheat. Namely, veiling or skirting ;
burning ; and one plowing.
For manure, the Beat ashes are chiefly
depended upon.
The sowing is done generally, in July.
The QUANTITY OF SEED, onc to two piuts.
The HOING of Turneps has not yet found
its way into the ordinary practice of the Dis-
trict. In Autumn, the Turnep grounds are
as yellow, as Mustard Fields in May ; and,
in winter, as white with the opened pods of
the Charlock, as stubbles in Autumn : the
silvery pods and withered branches of the
weeds, shading and almost hiding the green
tops of the Turneps: not in the immediate
District of the station, onlv ; but in other
parts of the County.
Many individuals, it is true, attempt to
draw the weeds, by hand ; piling them in
heaps, upon the ground. But the whole crop,
1 apprehend, is rarely if ever gone through,
in this way. And what is done, is probably
done at a greater expence, than homg would
have incurred ; yet without the beneflcial
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 193
^fiect of setting out the plants, or meliorating
the soil.
The expenditure of Turxeps is judi-
cious. They are chiefly drawn, and thrown
upon ley grounds, to cattle and sheep ; or
carried to stalls, for fatting cattle ; agreeably
to the Norfolk practice!
General Observation on the Turnep
CULTURE.
It is not fitting, nor likely, that this part
of the Island, alone, should remain much
longer a discredit to British Agriculture, in
respect to the culture of this valuable crop.
And yet, if I may judge from my own ex-
perience, the hand-hoing of turneps cannot
readily be introduced. For altho, by per-
sonal attention, I succeeded equally to my
expectation ; yet, whenever that attention
was called off, a relaxation or neglect of the
operation took place : so rooted, and difficult
to eradicate, is the custom of half a century.
If I were to venture to recommend any
practice, to the Gentlemen who are now
evincing a desire to urge their countrymen
to accurate management, it would be to
change, entirely, the present mode of raising
Turneps ; and to adopt that which has been
VOL. I. o lately
194 TURNEPS.
lately struck out, in the South of Scotland,
and is now making its way, very rapidly,
into the North of England : namely, that of
sowing them on narrow ridges, similar to
those in which potatoes are sometimes raised,
in the District under view ; and cleaning the
intervals with the horse hoe : a method that
appears to me singularly adapted to the shal-
lower soils of Devonshire ; which, in gene-
ral, are well suited to the Turnep culture.
References to Mlnutes.
18. Directions to inexperienced hoers.
23. On Charlock, as a food of cattle.
53. On Turnep, as a food of ewes and lambs.
64. On watering Turneps on ridgets ; with
a m:ichine for that purpose.
Minutes on Cabbages*.
24. An ingenious method of cutting them
noticed.
54. On planting them with mattocks.
64. On watering them, as above.
• A crop which does not enter into the ordinary prac-
tice of the District.
WEST DE\^ONSHIRE. 195
19.
POTATOES.
^HE History of the Potatoe crop, as
an object of field culture, in this Western
District, furnishes another instance of the
respect which its cultivators have long borne
to established customs. It is not more than
twent}^ve years, if so much, since the entire
Countr}-, including, I believe, the markets
of Plymouth, was supplied with Potatoes
from the neighbourhood of Morton Hamp-
stead, at tlie opposite end of Dartmore, and
at no less than twenty miles distance from
the center of this District, nor less than thirty
miles from Plymouth and its dock yard ! The
film of prejudice, however, being at length
broken or seen through, Potatoes were found
to grow, and to produce their kind, at the
West end, as well as at the East end, of Dart-
more ; and, now, the District raises enough
to furnish its own consumption, and to sup-
ply the markets in its neighbourhood ; tho
the population, probably, has much encreas-
ed, during the lapse of five and tw*enty years.
02 It
196 POTATOES.
It is reasonable to suppose that the people
of Morton, while they monopolized, and prac-
tised as a mystery, the culture of Potatoes^
"during a length of time, would not be inat-
tentive to the minutiae of cultivation ; and it
is equally probable, that the knowledge they
acquired travelled Westward, with the ope-
ration. This being as it may, the culture of
Potatoes is, at present, well understood, here ;
and, in one particular, at least, desers^es to
be copied.
The SPECIES of Potatoes, here as in most
other places, are various ; not only in shape,
color, and farinaceous quality, but in the
nature of their growth ; the difierent sorts
requiring different times of planting: a cir^
cumstance which is not, perhaps, sutHcicntly
attended to, in other Districts.
SUCCESSION. Potatoes succeed, inva-
riably I believe. Ley herbage ; — broken some-
times at least, by two or three plowings;
but Beat burning is now, I believe (l804),
more commonly used for this crop.
PLANTING. Time of planting — INIarch,
April, May, or even June ; according to the
varieties or sorts which are cultivated : it
being found that each has its favorite season
of planting : and it is probable that, were
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 197
attention paid to the varieties of every other
District, similar propensities might be dis-
coAcred.
The METHOD OF PLANTING varics. Some-
times thevare distributed in alternate furrows,
and covered with dung. In other instances,
they are planted on slips or beds ; narrow
ridges of mold being left between them, to
earth up the plants, in the lazy-bed way.
The CLEANING of Potatoes is well at-
tended to. They are hoed, or rather hacked ;
and I have seen those which have been
planted in alternate furrows, earthed up, in
a husbandlike manner, in ridgets.
Potatoes are TAKEN UP, in Novem-
ber, and December; and PRESERVED in
*' caves" — shallow pits, — filled, ridged up,
and covered with straw and earth, agree-
ably to modern practice : see Midland
Counties.
The FARM EXPENDITURE of Pota-
toes is chiefly, or wholly, on Swine. And,
from the restrictive clause in Leases (see
page 85), it is probable that even this is a
modern mode of expenditure.
o 5 20.
19^' CULTIVATED HERBAGE.
20,
CULTIVATED HERBAGE.
IT has been already mentioned, that the
cultivation of herbage is of more than half
a century standing, in the District under
sur^'ey *. From this circumstance, and from
the cultivation of Turneps, and the use of
Lime as a manure, having been introduced
about the same time, it would seem that,
sixty or seventy years ago, a stage of im-
provement took place : since which time the
practice appears to have been stationary ; and
it is, of course, now fully prepared for anor
ther movement.
The PROPORTIONAL QUANTITY OF LEY
GROUND, in the inclosed country, is full two
thirds of the arable lands, — namely, the lands
that are occasionally plowed,— considered as
distinct from meadows, grazing grounds, and
rough upland pastures. But, on the skirts
of the moors and commons, which serve as
summer pastures, the proportion is less.
* In an old account of the Drake Estate is the follow-
ing charge: — " May y* 20th, 1723, pd. for 4oolb. of
Clover Seed, at 3^cf. per pound, ^5. 16. 8."
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 199
The SPECIES of herbage which is here
cultivated are chiefly red Clover and Ray-
grass — provincial! J " Eaver :" but white
Clover, and Trefoil, are occasionally sown.
SUCCESSION. In the ordinary practice
of the country, cultivated herbage succeeds
Oats, after Barley, after Wheat ! A practice
which we have seen, bad as it is, enforced
by a restrictive clause in modern leases.
SOWING. The usual time is between
the sowing of the corn and its coming up.
The quantity of seed 1 2lb. of Clover, and
half a bushel of Raygrass.
APPLICATION. Mown the first year:
afterwards pastured.
DURATION. Five, six, or seven years,
in the inclosed country ; less by the sides of
the commons.
Remark. The improvement, which is
evidently wanted, in regard to this most im-
portant crop in the Devonian Husbandry, is
that of cleaning the land, thoroughly, to re-
ceive the seed ; either by a fallow, or a fallow
crop, as turneps, &c. ; agreeable to the prac-
tice of modern husbandry.
1804. Several successful instances of cul-
tivating Ley Herbage, w ithout the pro-
tection of corn crops, have taken place on
o 4 Lord
200 CULTIVATED HERBAGE.
Lord Heathfield's demesnes, of late year^,
A dilficulty of practice, on rich lands that
are in fine tilth, arises from the young seed-
ling plantsbeing oxerTunhy chickweed ; which
matts on the ground and smothers them.
But, by sowing Rape Seed with the seeds
of herbage (as formerly recommended for
cultivating herbage on Dartmore — see Dis-
trict the thkid) that evil may be avoided.
The Rape plants are able to overcome the
weeds, yet do not destroy the herbage ; and
moreover afford, almost immediately, valu-
able pasturage for sheep ; whose tread, in
dry weather, is serviceable to the voung
grasses.
21.
GRASS LAxNDS,
>ND THKIR
.MANAGEMENT. '
I. SPECIES OF GRASS LANDS.
THE GRASS LANDS of this District may be
classed under
1. Meadow lands, or cool and frequent-
ly rich bottoms, or shallow dells ; as well as
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 201
more upland sites, over which water can be
spread ; and which are kept in a state of
MOWING GROUND *.
2. Grazing grounds, or rich uplands,
over which water has not been conducted ;
and which are kept in a state of Pasturage.
3. The TEMPORARY Leys, just mentioned;
■which are used as mow^ing ground, the first
year; and afterward, as pasture grounds.
*And
4. Rough uplands, which sometimes, tho
not frequently, occur on private property,
and are kept in a state of coarse pasturage.
II. MANAGExMENT of GRASS LANDS.
In the management of pasture grounds, I
met
* Meadow Plants. I collected most of them ; but
not with sufficient accuracy, as to their proportional quan-
tity, to entitle the list to publication.
The species, found in the meadows of Buckland, are
the ordinary species of meadow lands, in most parts of
the Island ; with, however, one remarkable difference :
the meadow Foxtail (Alopecurus pratensisj is wanting !
The late accurate Botanist, and amiable man, Mr.
Hudson (Author of Flora Anglicaj, had some seeds
pf this Plant collected, in the neighbourhood of London
(at the request of our friend the late Sir Francis Drake],
and sown over these meadows; but without success. In
the summer of I794j I examined, with some attention,
the pan over which they \yere sown; but could not dis-
cover that any of them had taken root.
aoa MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS,
met with nothing noticeable ; except the ex-
traordinary fouhiess of many of the Leys ;
which has been already noticed, under the
head — Manageivient or the Soil *. I shall
therefore confine my remarks, under this
head, to mowing grounds, and more parti-
cularly, to
Watered meadows. Theor?gi?? of the prac-
tice of watering Grass Lands, artificially, in
this District, cannot be reached by memory ;
nor does tradition, I believe, attempt to ascer-
tain it. There is a striking instance of the an-
tiquity of the practice observable, on the Bar-
ton of Buckland. A hedge, in appearance some
centuries old, winds by the side of a water
course, evidently formed by art, for the pur-
pose of conveying a rill, along the brow of a
swell of rich Grass Land, which bears no
mark of having ever been in a state of ara-
tion. From the winding direction, and the
reo ular descent, or almost levelness, of this
artificial rill, there is every reason to believe,
that it was formed prior to the hedge ; which
may seem to have since (or at the time of
forming it) been run along the upper side of
it. From the circumstance of this farm hav-
ing been monastic, one is led to conclude
• Moles arc usually caught by the year.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 2P3
diat the practice was introduced under the
auspices of the church.
But this by the way : History, ecclesiastic
or profane, may perhaps furnish those who
have leisure to look for them, with informa-
tion on this subject.
The quantity of watered lands, in this
District, is, in some townships, considerable;
while in others, where the vallies are nar-
row, and their sides are wooded, little wa-
tered ground is seen. There remains, howr
.ever, much to be done in this respect.
Perhaps, not half the lands that are capable
of receiving this admirable improvement, en-
joy it at present ; and
The manas:ement of those which are sub-
jected to the practice, whatever it may have
been heretofore, is, at present, far from be-
ing accurate. The soil is imperfectly drain-
ed, and the water imperfectly spread over it.
presently before my going down into the
District, a person of the first practice in it
had been employed, to conduct the water
over the meadows of Buckland ; which had
previously lain in a state of neglect. Never-
theless, I found them still in such a state, as
induced me to have the whole laid out, afresh,
pnder my own directions.
Yet,
204 MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS.
Yet, the effect of the water, notwithstand-
ing the neglect in wliich the watering of
land is found, at this day, is such as I have
no where observed ; except in the neighbour-
hood of chalk hills. It gives a greenness and
grossncss of herbage, resembling that of the
meadows in Wiltshire and Dorsetshire.
This led me to conceive that the slatey
rocks, out of which the most efficacious of
these waters filter, contain some considerable
proportion of calcareous matter. But, from
the experiments already mentioned, the pro-
portionate quantity of calcareous earth, con-
tained in these slate rocks, if any, appears to
be very smalL
Nevertheless, it might be dangerous to
conclude, from this, that the waters under
consideration do not contain a sufficient
quantity of the calcareous principle, to enable
them to produce the effect which we are de-
sirous to account lor. Indeed, it is not a
knowledge of the component parts of the
filtering stratum, but of those of the waters
themselves, which is most desirable.
ACCTRATE ANALYSES of WATERS, whoSC
effects are hiown, as manures, are "\ery
much to be desired. That diti'erent waters
arc as various, in their effects on vegetation.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 205
as distinct vegetable and animal substances
are, must be evident to every one w^ho has
jnade extensive observations on these effects.
And Chemtstry might bestow on Agricul-
ture valuable assistance, by prosecuting en-
quiries of this nature *.
The Hay harvest of West Devonshire
has not much to reconniiend it, as a pattern
to other Districts.
The moiling is, in general, ill done. The
sithe is short, and laid in, with its point too
near the handle. The unavoidable conse-
quence is, the work goes on slovA'ly, or lines
of uncut herbage are left between the strokes.
I have seen worse mowing, both of grass and
corn, in this District than in any other*
This censure, however, does not apply to the
country, wholly. I have also seen good
work in it.
The Hay-maJchig of the District stands in
a similar predicament. Some I have seen
vilely
• 1804* As a matter of science, such analyses would
be valuable, in establishing a general theory of irriga-
tion. But in practice, where a particular species of water
is capable of being applied to a given soil, the land itself
is the most eligible tesr.
For general remarks on this subject; and an easy
method of forming a trial ground ; see Treatise on
Landed Property, Art. Watering Grass Lands.
2o6 MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS.
vilely managed ; others conducted on thd'
best principles of the art : namely, spread^
turned, cocked in small cocks, respread>
turned, recocked, or carried.
But, in these operations, a principal tool,
the PRoxG, is ridiculously too small ; litter
for the hands of a Cook, than a Haymaker:
the tines, even of those used for loading
carriages, are not longer than those of a Man
of M'ar's beef- fork. But they were fashion-
ed under the horse-and-crook husbandry^
and where carriages are used, they still remain
unchanged.
The caiTij'ing of Hay in crooks I have seeit
done in a neat and secure manner. The ends
or faces of the load are carried up straight,
and appear in folds, hke those formed at the
corners of waggon loads, in some Districts.
This gives firmness to the load, and prevents
its being scattered by the way.
The AFTERGRASS of mcadovvs is, here, ju-
diciously managed : it is sutfered to grow to
a full bite, but not to be overgrown, before
stock be turned upon it.
I have seen cattle put into a meadow, im-
mediately after the Hay was carried out of it,
"to pick about the hedges:" — an accurate
minutia of management. For the herbage.
WEST DEVONSHIRE; 207
which is then succulent and edible to store
cattle, would, before the aftergrass were
ready to be pastured off, become unpalatable,
and be altogether neglected by cov^s or fat-
ting stock, with fresh succulent herbage be-
fore them. It would be evidently wrong,
however, to suffer them to remain in fresh
mown grounds, after they have performed
that intention.
See Midland Counties, ISIin. 62, on tlils
subject.
References to Minutes.
2 1 . On the rich grazing grounds of Milton
Abbot.
27. On conducting rills, for watering pasture
grounds and meadows.
28. On the probable use of walnut leaves, in
making drinking pools.
33. Further, on conducting rills.
38. On the management of young temporary
leys.
— ^. On irrigating sloping grounds.
53. On the value of kept grass, for ewes and
lambs.
Cl. On the effect of folding sheep on grass
land.
63. Cursory remarks on mushroom rings.
22.
jK)8 MANAGEMENT OF ORCHARDS.
21.
TnE MANAGEMENT of
ORCH.\EDS AND FRUIT LIQUOR
IK
JJ'EST DEVONSHIRE, &>:.
AFEER the ample detail already given of
the Management of Orchards and Fruit Li-
quor in Herefordshire, &c. *, little may
seem to be requisite, on the present occa:?ion.
But when, on examination, we find that the
practices of the two Districts, especially with
respect to Orchards, are so widely ditFerent.as
to appear pretty evidently to have had separate
origins, the propi-iety of registering the ma-
nagement of Devonshire, in detail, w ill be
readily admitted.
In examining .he practice of tliis District,
I find it requisite to follow nearly tlie same
steps which 1 took in going over that of
Herefordshire ; and to examine
First, Orchards.
Secondly, Fruit Liquor.
• Sec Glccestebshire, Vol. II. p. 205.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 209
I. ORCHARDS. The particulars which
present themselves, on viewing this branch
of the subject, in the present case, are
1. The introduction of Orchards into
the District.
2. The quantity of Orchard grounds it
contains.
3. The species of Orchard fruits.
4. The situations of Orchards.
5 . The soils of Orchards.
0. The method of raising Orchard trees.
7. Planting Orchard trees.
8. The aftermanagement of Orchards.
9. The application of the ground of
Orchards.
1. The first ixtroductiox of Orchards,
into this District, appears to be pretty well
ascertained. One of the Orchards of Buck-
land is said to be the oldest in the country,
and this is spoken of as being about two
hundred years old.
Nevertheless, this Orchard is still fully
stocked, and in full bearing ! A fact which
the Orchardmen of Herefordshire will not
readily credit. A fact, however, which is ■
perfectly reconcileable, when the practice of
this District is explained*. 2. The
* This particular, with many others relating to the
VOL. I. p present
210 MANAGEMENT OF ORCHARDS.
2. The AGGREGATE QUANTITY of Orchard
grounds, in this District, is considerable. For
tho the Orchards in general are small, com-
pared with those of Herefordshire, &c. ; yet
the Farms being also small, and each having
its Orchard ground, the number is of course
great. Nevertheless, the proportional quan-
tity of Orchard groimds to culturable li^nds,
is much less, in this than in the May hill
District f.
present subject, I had from Mr. Stapleton of Monks*
BucKLAXu; who may, I believe, be said to have a more
accurate knowledge of the management of Orchards and
Cider, than any other man in the country.
1804. From the same sensible, intelligent, and va-
luable man (whose exemplary life terminated a few years
ago, in his ninetieth year), I gained a general idea of the
AGE of the APPLE TREE, in this District. The age of
some particular trees, which he remembered, from his
childhood, as " old trees," he laid at one hundred and fifty
years old. But these had been thrown on one side, by
the wind, and their boughs had struck root j by which
their youthfulness had been renewed. Seventy or eighty
years he considered as the full age, on a par, of standing
trees, in the climate, and under the ordinary manage-
ment, of West Devonshire.
+ OiiCHAKDS OF Cornwall. The Cider countr)',
I am well informed, does not reach more than half the
length of the county. Below that, the sea air is inju-
rious to Orchards; the land growing narrower, and there
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ftix
3. The SPECIES of FRUIT is invariably the
Apple, when Liquor is the object *.
For the Fruit markets. Cherries, Pears,
and Walnuts, are raised in great abundance ;
especially in the township of Beer Ferries ;
which is said to send out of it a thousand
pounds worth of fruit (including Strawber-
ries) annually.
4. The SITUATIONS of Orchards are chiefly
in vallies, and low lying grounds, near houses ;
not spread over the arable and pasture lands,
as in Herefordshire and Glocestershire. Ne-
vertheless, there are grounds, not only well
adapted for arable crops, but for water mea-
dows, which are at present appropriated to
Orchard produce. On the Barton of Buck-
land, there are twenty or thirty acres of land
of the last description, encumbered with
Orchard trees, which have never paid for
planting and land room ; and which ought
forthwith to be (i804, have been) disor-
charded : and there are other Orchard grounds
in
being fewer vallles to shelter them, in the Western ex-
tremity of the county, than there are in the Eastern parts,
and in Devonshire.
* The soil, perhaps, is not adapted to the Pear Tree,
which affects a cool strong soil. See Glocestj^rshire^
11. 229,
P 2
212 MANAGEMENT OF ORCHARDS.
in the same predicament, on different parts
of this estate : not arising so much, perhaps>
from locality, as from aspect.
Part of the Orchards, here under notice,
lie bleakly exposed to the North : part in the
opening of a deep valley, in the current of
the Southwest \>'inds.
INIuch of the success of Orchards depends
on situation. The Orchards which succeed
best, in this District, are situated in dells or
hollows, which are neither exposed to the
bleak blasts from the Northeast, nor to the
sea ivindsy from the West and Southwest.
Deep narrow vallies, whose sides are preci-
pitous, and neither fit for corn nor meadow,
and which are not Uable to the winds here
noticed, as they blow across them, are sin-
gularly eligible for Orchard grounds ; and
there are many such, probably, which have
not yet been planted *. While, it is certain
that much of the ground, which is at present,
in a state of under-productive Orchard, might
be converted to a better purpose.
5. Soils. The richest deepest soils appear
• The RENT of Orchard Grounds, in geniaJ situa-
tions, and when in " full bearing," — ^while the trees are
of a middle ajre, and in full vicDr, — i? from 3 to 5/. aii
'acre.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 213
%o have been chosen for Orchard grounds.
It is probable that the shallower soils of this
District are unfit for fruit trees; but, where
situation will admit, such as are encumbered
with large stones, with good intervening soil,
are singularly eligible ; and, in some cases, I
have seen them chosen.
0. Plants for Orchards are raised, either
by nurserymen ; or by farmers, for their own
and their neighbours' use ; or by cottagers
for sale ; or by landlords to supply their te-
nants. The management of nursery gTounds,
here, is above par. The intervals are not
only dug over or turned in, from time to
time, but are commonly covered with straw,
weeds, brambles, or other vegetable matters,
to check the rising weeds, and to assist in
keeping the ground mellow and moist ; as
well as to meliorate the soil.
The most remarkable circumstance be-
longing to them, however, is that of trai fling
the plants, — with stems, not more, perhaps,
than three or four feet high ! A practice which
is so different from that of other fruit-liquor
countries, indeed, from that of almost evei'y
part of this Island, Devonshire and Cornwall
excepted, that a stranger is inclined to con-
p .^ demn
114 iMANAGEMENT OF ORCHARDS.
demn it at first sight, as being guided by
ignorance or folly of the lowest degree.
Whether it has been adopted, originally,
to avoid the ill effect of the winds, or to
bring the fruitbeanng w ood near the ground,
and thereby to gain a more genial atmo-
sphere, for the fruit to mature in ; or whe-
ther it may have arisen out of the practice of
gathering crab stocks in the woods, and
rough grounds, where they frequently take
a low shrubby form, may now be difficult to
ascertain : at present, the practice appears
to be followed, merely, as an established
custom. See So. Co. II. 1Q2, on this subject.
The disadvantages of low fruit trees will
be mentioned, in speaking of the Application
of the Land of Orchards.
7. In the PLANTING of Fruit Trees, the
Orchardmen of A\^est Devonshire excel. A
stronger proof of this need not be produced,
than the circumstance of their keeping the
same ground in a state of orchard, in perpe-
tuity. As the old trees go off, young ones
are planted, in the interspaces, without any
apprehensions of miscarriage.
In setting out Orchards, the practice of
Devonshire is not less unique, than it is in
training the plants. A statute rod, namely
VTEST DEVONSHIRE. 215
live yards and a half, may be taken as the
ordinary distance between the plants ! Some
I have measured at not more than four yards
apart : some few at six yards.
The most approved mode of planting is to
remove the soil down to tlie rock, which
seldom lies very deep, and to cover this,
eight or ten inches thick, with a compost of
fresh earth and sea sand. Upon this com-
post, in ordinary cases, the inverted turf is
laid ; and upon this the young tree is set ; its
roots being bedded in the best of the exca-
vated mold ; finally covering them with the
ordinar}- earth raised in making the pit. A
method which is altogether judicious.
The usual guard is formed with faggots of
brambles, bnashwood, or furze ; letting them
remain to rot at the foot of the tree. No
stakes, I believe, are used. Indeed, the
plants are generally so low as not to require
them : especially mjiUing up old Orxhards ;
as the old trees shelter the young ones from
the wind. And the planting of new Orchards
does not appear to be, at present, much in
practice. I have not observed it, in more
than one or two instances.
8. The AFTERMANAGEMENT of Orchards is
confined to supplying the trees \\itli fresh
p 4 brambles.
ai6 MANAGEMENT OF ORCHARDS.
brambles, furze, and brushwood, straw or
weeds, to rot on their roots : not over the
pasture of the feeding fibres, but round the
stem (in such a manner however as not to
touch it). Yet it is beheved, by men who
pay attention to these matters, that the growth
and fruitfulness of the trees are much pro-
moted through these means. Does the dead
matter, by destroying the living herbage,
become the means of a supply of air to the
larger roots, and thus assist the sap in its
ascent ? The popular idea is, that these
substances *' find their way down to the
roots *."
It will not be improper to relate, that I
have heard the cavlicr (the great enemy of
modern Orchards) set at naught ! Not, how-
ever, by a man on whose judgement I have
a sufficient reliance, to become a voucher
for the truth of his opinions. " A zeam of
Zand" applied to the root is an infallible re-
medv. " Common river sand, or the sand
of Rooborough Down w ill do." The canker
he believes, is owing to too much " dress-
ing," or additional substances applied to the
* For an instance of inverting the sward of an
Orchard, by way of meliorating the Trees, see the Mi-
nute 10.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 217
roots ; or to too great richness of soil, which
he thinks the sand corrects or qualifies.
I register these ideas the rather, as they
accord with my own theory of the canker :
and in evidence of the truth of the theory,
and the justness of the practice, the true
Redstreak, or an apple, which, as well as the
tree that bears it, resembles the Hereford-
shire Redstreak, formerly of so much cele-
brity, is still cultivated, here, with great ease
and certainty *.
The pruning of Fruit Trees, appears to be
little attended to ; after they are planted in
the Orchard.
With respect to the cleaning of Orchard
Trees, I have neither seen, nor heard, of
any traces of such a practice. During the
winter months, a AYest Devonshire Orchard,
by reason of the lowness of the trees, per-
haps, and the humidity of the climate, ap-
pears as if hung with hoar frost ; owing to
the white moss which hangs in ribbons from
its boughs. The Misletoe is not known to
this District, nor, I believe, to any part of
Devonshire or Cornwall f .
9. The
* But see forward, p. 222.
+ 1804. Misletoe. I have attended particularly to this
interesting fact. Yet from the observations and enquiries
I have
2i» Mx\NAGEMENT OF ORCHARDS.
Q. The APPLICATION OF THE LAND of Or-
chards. Here lies the main objection to the
Devonshire Orchard. The use of the land is
in a great measure thrown away. Horses are
sutfered to run through Orchards, in winter,
and calves are kept in them, in early spring ;
but grown cattle and sheep are, at all times,
prohibited from entering them : while fruit
is on the trees, the very swine are carefully
kept out ; even small pigs ; lest they should
gather the fruit as it hangs on the boughs !
w^hich, in a bearing year, bend to the ground,
and probably rest upon it ; while weeds, per-
haps three or four feet high, shoot up among
them, and, of course, overshadow the fruit.
Previous to the gathering season, the weeds
are cut down with the sithe, and thrown to
the roots of the trees ; that the fruit may be
found : an operation, however, which is too
often neglected until the first windfalls have
rotted on the ground ; and a double destruc-
tion of hog food has taken place *.
I have made, it does not appear to be an inhabitant even
of the most Eastern parts of Devonshire : while, on its
very borders, in So.NfERSETSHiRE, it is common.
* An idea prevails, here, that apples are not nutricious
to hogs. It is very probable that apples, alone, would
not be so i but considering the nature of the hog, with
4
WEST DEVONSHIRE. atg
II. FRUIT LIQUOR. A\Tiere the con-
sumption of any article lies chiefly within the
District of Manufacture, there is the less
stimulus to excellency of management, than
where a common market creates an emula-
tion among those who supply it. From the
Southern parts of Devonshire, more or less
Cider is sent to the London market; but
very httle, from this Western District. Ne-
vertheless, I have tasted Cider of a superior
quality, made in West Devonshire. Indeed^
its climature, in a moderately dry summer,
seems to be much better adapted to the pro-
duction of this species of Fruit Liquor, than
is that of Herefordshire or Glocestershire.
In taking a view of the West Devonshire
practice, it will be proper to examine, sepa-
rately, the following particulars.
1. The
respect to the heat and dn-ness of his habit, and the well
known effect of acidulating his beverage ; and seeing the
avidity with which he devours fruit of every kind ; — it is
more than probable, that suffering store swine to pick up
the early windfall fruit, previous to the first grinding^ is
much more eligible than letting it waste among the weeds
and grass j which, if likewise thrown open to store swine,
would be a farther source of profit to their owners.
aio MANAGEMENT OF FRLTr LIQUOK.
1. The Manufacton-. fi. Fermenting.
2. The Fruit. 7. The Liquor.
3. Breaking. 8. Produce.
4. Pressing. 0- Markets.
5. The Must.
1. The ordinary" place of manufacture,
— provincially the ** pound house," — is ge-
nerally a mean shed or hovel, without pecu-
liarity of form, or any trace of contrivance.
On the larger Bartons, or where the Orchard
grounds are extensive, appropriate buildings
are fitted up, in diiferent ways.
The only pound house, I examined, which
has anv claim to merit, in respect to plan, is
that of Mr. Stapleton of Monks' Buckland;
which, tho not on a large scale, is, per-
haps, in the arrangement or general economy
of its more essential parts, as near perfection,
as the nature cf a Fruit-Liquor Maiiufactor}*
will admit of, or requires.
The building is a long square, standing
with its longer dimensions down a gentle
descent. At its upper end is a platform or
flooring of loose stones (the rubbish of a slate
quarry), to receive the fniit, as it is gathered,
and to give it the rirst stage ot maturation,
in the open air. The ground floor, of that
end of the building, contains the miU and
. '"^ WEST DEVONSHIRE. aai
press : and over it is a loft or chamber, in
which the apples receive the last stage of
piaturation ; and from which they are con-
veyed, by a spout, into the mill. The gi'ound
floor of the lower end of the building is the
fermenting room, which is sunk a few steps
below the door of the mill and press room ;
a pipe or shoot conveying the liquor, from
the press, into a cistern in the fermenting
room.
Thus far, the plan may be said to be com-
plete. If, over the fermenting room, an
empty cask loft were fitted up ; and, on a
stage below it, a keeping room or store cel-
lar were set apart for the fermented hquor ;
and, further, if a contiguous room, fitted up
with a boiler, were made to communicate,
eqnally, with the fermenting room, and the
empty cask room, for the conveniency of
coopering and scalding the casks ; such pre-
mises might be said to be complete in all their
parts.
On principles similar to those which are
here suggested, I have made such alterations
in the cider rooms of Buckland Place, as the
situation of the buildings would admit of,
without great expence. They are on the
largest scale of any I have seen ; and are pro-
bably.
422 MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT LiaUOR.
bably, in many respects, the first suite of /)n-
vate cider rooms,, in the kingdom.
2. Fruit. The species, as has been said,
is solely the apple, Avhose vmieties are, here,
numerous ; tho not so endless, as they are
in Herefordshire ; the propagation of kernel
fruits being less frequent, in this District.
Many of the sorts are of old standing. The
Golden Pipin, however, is going olf ; '' it
cankers and will not take ;" so that the iden-
tity of the Redstreak mav be doubled. See
above, page 217.
In the scttherincr of fruit, there is nothing
either excellent or peculiar ; except in the cir-
curastanceof fruit being, here, gathered wet op
dry : a circumstance which may have arisen
out of the moistness of the climate, and out
of the closeness and rough woody state of the
orchards ; in which, it were next to impos-
sible, to collect dry fruit ; unless in a remark-
ably dr\' season.
The maturation of the fruit, in the ordi-
nary practice of the District, is carried on in
large heaps, in the open air, or in the pound
house, or other covered situation * ; where
• Preparing a rough opeo flooring of sloaes^ as men-
tioned abo^•e, is very judicious, when apples are matured
' WEST DEVONSHIRE. 423
they remain, until they be sufficiently '* come;*'
that is, until the brown rot has begun to take
place.
3. BuEAKiXG. Formerly, this operation
was performed by Imiid : a practice which is
still continued, I understand, in some parts
of Cornwall. The apples being thrown into
a large trough or tub, five or six persons,
standing round the vessel, " pounded" them*,
with large clubshaped wooden pestils, whose
ends are guarded, and made rough, to lay
hold of the apples the better, with the large
heads of nails.
At present, the ordinary Jiorse mill of Heie^
fordshire, &c. is in general use, here : and
it has the same objectionable point in its
manufacture, as that noticed in the Gloces-
tershire mills : namely the coarseness of the
stone work. The grinding is of course im-
perfectly done-f.
Lately, I understand, a hand mill has been
introduced
in the open air; not only as keeping the base of the heap
dry; but as communicaiing, perhaps, a supply of air, to
the lower and central parts of the heap.
• Hence, no doubt, the epithet " pound" is applied
to the house, ?cc. in which the whole business of cider
making is performed,
t See Glocestershire, IT- 299.
214 MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT LIQUOR.
introduced into this count}', and is making
its way fast into practice ; but it did not fall
in mj way to examine it J.
X 1S04. A horse milly on the same principle, is now
in use, in the Elxelcr quarter of Devonshire. The opera-
tive parts consist of two horizontal wooden rollers, nine
or ten inches in diameter, turning against each other, at
the bottom of a hopper; in the manner of those of the
oat bruiser. Sec. Each roller is studded with firm points
of iron, set in spiral lines round the roller: each point
having a corresponding dint, or receptacle, in the oppos-
ing roller ; into which recess it enters in the operation of
grinding : a most ingenious and valuable thought. The
points lay hold of the fruit, and impel it downward be-
tween the rollers ; which, by that simple contrivance,
may be brought to any required degree of nearness to
each other ; and thev are of course set at such a distance
as it is judged will bruise the pvlp sufficiently for the
press ; — this being all that a common cidermaker, here,
requires.
The dispatch made by it is ver)' great. Two or three
hogsheads, an hour, it is asserted, may be ground, with
one horse, in this machine; which may well be deemed
an ingenious improvement of the fluted iron rollers of
iheMayhill District. See Glocestershire, Art. Fruit
LiouoR, Vol. II. p. 298.
Neither of these machines, however, is well adapted
to bruising the rhid or the kernels of fruit. And some
superior managers, here, I am told, being aware of this
defect, run the pomage, thus roughly broken, down be-
twefn plain, or nearly plain, rollers : an operation, bow-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 225
4. Pressing. The old Press of the Dis-
trict, and which, I believe, is still much in
use, by the smaller growers of cider fruit, is
very ingenious and beautifully mechanical.
It is an improvement of the simple lever ; by
adding a rider, or lever upon lever ; at the
end of which a weight is suspended. By
this simple contrivance the acting lever is
kept hard down upon the cheese, and j'ollows
it as it sinks/ an advantage which no skrew
press possesses.
As an improvement upon this (and with
respect to pov/er it certainly is such), a slivew
is made use of to pull down the loose end of
the lever; the other end of it, in either case,
being moveable ; and is fixed higher or lower,
according to the height of the pile of pomxagc
to be pressed : lowering it as the pile is low-
ered by pressing.
The last stage of improvement, or refine-
ment,
ever, which theory suggests must be slow j — if the rollers
be set close enough to crush the kernels, effectually.
Nevertheless, by these spirited advances it appears pro-
bable, that, by turther study and perseverance, a mill,
or mill?, on these principles, may he braught so near,
perfection, as to equal, or excel, tiic stone mill, with
respect to efficiency of execution ; and greatly to exceed
it, in regard to dispatch.
VOL. I. Q
226 MANAGLMENT OF FRL'IT LIQUOR.
mcnt, of the lever press ; for such it still is,
in principle ; is to furnish each end with a
pulldown skrew ; first the one end and then
the other being worked, in the act of press-
ing; a small plummet being hung in the
middle, to assist the eye of the workmen ;
lest, by acting too long upon one end of the
lever, they should injure the worm of the
skrcw.
These skrew lever presses are made of an
enormous size, whether with one or with
two skrews : large enough to press four, five,
or six hogsheads at once ! the lever — provin-
cially the " summer" — being equal in size to
tlie dec k beam of a man of war. Altoge-
ther 3n uncouth, unwieldy, monstrous im-
plement.
. The mclliod of pressing is invariably that
of piling Hp the pomage or ground fruit, in
'* reed" (unthnv-shed straw) in layers ; those
of pomagc being some three or four inches
thick, the reed being spread thinly over, and
then another thin covering is spread across
the first. Injer the gigantic press above-
described, tlie pile is four or five feet square,
and nearly as much in height. On the top,
a broad strong covering of wood is laid ; and,
upon tlii?=, the lever is lowered.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 227
A pile so large, and of so frail a construc-
tion, requires to be pressed with caution, in
the outset : a circumstance which renders
the operation extremely tedious : one of the
enormous " cheeses" of the larger presses
taking two days to complete the pressino- !
The pile having acquired sufficient lirm-
ness, the outsides are pared off, square, \^ ith
a hay knife; cutting otFall the loose sponjxy
parts which evaded the pressure, and piling
them upon the top of the cheese, to receive
the immediate action of the press : or are
resers'ed for " beverage ;'' being watered and
pressed separately*.
5. The Must, or expressed liquor, which"
comes off, from this mode of pressing, is
extremely foul, compared with that which
is strained through hair-cloths. It is, there-
fore, placed in large vessels or cisterns, for its
feculencies to subside, before it be put into
casks.
6. In the fermenting of Fruit Liquor,
nothing of superior excellence, I believe, is
to be learnt, from the ordinary practice of
this
♦ For a description of the Herefordshire Press, and the
method of pressing in Hair-cloth, see Glocestershire,
Vol. ir. page 278, and 306.
Q 2
228 maxaghmext of frl'it liquor.
this District. In the fermenting room of a
farm, which has long been noted for its ci-
der, I have seen an experienced manager. —
who has for several years had the care of this
cidtT, — racking " one side of the house to-
day, and the other side to-morrow," under
a fiill conviction that it " would do them all
good." Under management like this, it must,
of course, be mere matter of chance, if a
cask of palatable liquor be produced. But
cider of a superior quality being produced,
as it were accidentally, under this ignorant
treatment, it shews plainly how much might
be done (indeed has been done*) by know-
ledge and attention. However, while the
consumption remains with the District, and
while strength is the great recommendation
of the liquor, such knowledge and attention
in'ght, in some measure, be thrown away.
7. The FERMENTED LIQUOR is laid up in
HOGSHEADS, of slvtyfhrcc g(f/h??s each ; or
in PIPES, or ** double hogsheads."
8. The QUANTiTv OF PRODUCE is not more
than supplies the consumption of the Dis-
trict ; of course,
9. The MARKETS for sale cider arc the
• Panicularlv bv Mr. Stapleton.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 229
towns, and the public houses of the District;
the farmers own consumption being supplied
by windfliU fruit ; by the washings of the
** mock," or pomage, in scarce years; and
by inferior cider.
The price of marketable cider, on a par of
years, has been Ci/gG) fifteen shillings a
hogshead (of (33 gallons) for the must or un-
fermented liquor ; and a guinea for fermented
cider ; which sometimes rises to two or three
guineas a hogshead : and on the other hand,
some years the must has been sold at five
shillings, a hogshead, at the press.
General Observatioxs ox Orchards axd
Fruit Liquor. These prices, considering
the smallness of the measure, compared with
that of Herefordshire, make cider a more
advantageous article of produce, here, than
in the Mayhill District ; and, in suitable si-
tuations, as on the rugged sides of Tallies,
sufficiently sheltered from cutting wind.-,'
there can be no dispute about the superior
profitableness of Orchard Fruits, in a pecu-
niary point of view, to any other species of
produce; and most especially to a small far-
mer, who attends personally to the whole
Q 3 business.
230 MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT LIQUOR.
business, and \n hose wife and children are
his assistants.
Nevertheless, on larger farms, m here the
management is left much to ser\ants, and
where cider, under any management, is but
a secondary object, the business of making
it interferes with the more important con-
cerns of husbandry' : even the business of
hanest, and still more the cleaning of turnep
grounds, are too frequently neglected to give
place to fruit picking ; and the breaking and
pressing are, afterwards, not less inimical to
the saving of potatoes ; — and to the sowing of
wheat, which, as has been shewn, requires
all the hand labor the farm can afford. Be-
sides, tlie " dressing" which ought to be ap-
plied to the arable lands, it is to be feared,
is too frequently bestowed on the Orchard
Grounds — for '* how can dressing be be-
stowed to so good a purpose ?"
Again, the drunkenness, dissoluteness of
manners, and the dishonesty of the lo^^er
class, might well be referred, in whole or in
great part, to the baleful effects of cider;
which workmen of every description make a
merit of piUering: and, what is noticeable,
the ^if ect of cider, on the faculties of work-
ing people, appears to be different from tliat
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 231
of malt liquor. Give a Kentish man a pint
of ale, and it seems to invigorate his whole
frame : he falls to his work again, with re-
doubled ardor. But give a Devonshire man
as much, or twice as much cider, and it
appears to unbrace and relax, rather than to
give cheerfulness and energy- to his exertions.
Another more dagrant evil, which is laid
to the charge of cider, is the Devonshire colic,
analogous with the colic of Poitou. This
violent disorder has been ascribed to the cir-
cumstance of the mills and presses of De-
vonshire, ha\ing lead made use of in their
construction: and, under this idea, one of
the presses, I had an opportunity of examin-
ing, was scrupulously formed without lead ;
the joints of the '' vat" or bed of the press,
being caulked with wool and cow^ duno-,
which is found to be fully effective, in this
intention. But, in evidence of the improba-
bihty of lead being the cause of this mischief,
a mill, which has been constructed a century
at least, and which is cramped together by
means of lead, being examined, it was found
that no corrosion of the lead had taken place;
even the marks of the hammer remained per-
fectly distinct. This fact I do not speak to
from personal examination ; but I received
Q -i it
232 MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT LIQUOR.
it from an authority, on which 1 have everr
reason to rely.
From t\N o or three striking cases of this
disorder, to which I had an opporfunity of
paying some attention, it appeared to me to
be the joint etfect of cider, and of a vile spirit
which is drawn, by the housewives of Devon,
from the gromids and lees of the fermenting
room. These dregs are distilled (of course
illegally) by means of a porridge pot, with a
tin head fixed over it, and communicating
with a straight pipe that passes through a
hogshead of water ; the liquor being passed,
twice, through this impert'ect apparatus. It, of
course, comes over extremelv empyreumatic ;
and is drank in a recent state, under the
appropriate name of " necessity.'*
The patient having brought on, by an in-
ojdinate use of rough corrosive cider, and b}'
tlie quantity of acid thrown into the habit, a
fit of the ordinary colic, has recourse to
'* necessity,*' in order to remove the com-
plaint. The consequence is an obstinate cos-
tiveness, w hich generally continues for seve-
ral days, attended with the most excruciating
pain : and, tho the first paroxysm is seldom
fatal, repetitions of it too frequently are:
first bringing on a loss of the use of the
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 233
limbs, particularly of the hands, and, finally
ending in the loss of life ; if the deprivatioa
of life can be said to be a loss, under circum-
stances sd distressful.
Notwithstanding, however, the accumu-
lation of evils arising from the production^
use, and abuse of cider, the men of Devon
are more strongly attached to it, even than
those of Herefordshire. Their Orchards might
well be styled their Temples, and Apple Trees
their Idols of Worship.
It is not my intention, or wish, to depre-
ciate the Devonshire Orchards below their
real value ; but to endeavor to fix them at a
proper standard : to lower them so far, in
the estimation of owners and occupiers, as
to prevent their interfering too much with
the more important operations of Agricul-
ture. I wish to see them confined to uncul-
turable sites, and to have them considered,
as they really are, a subordinate object of
husbandry ; in order that the occupiers of
lands may bend their attention, with greater
energy and effect, to the arable and grass-
land managements : more especially to the
watering of meadows ; and, of course, to the
removal of many of the present Fruit Trees :
changing
Z34 MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT LIQUOR.
changing them for a more certain, and, on
a par of years, a more prolitablc species of
produce.
HORSES.
THE native BREED, which are still seen
on the mountains that overlook this District,
are very small : much resembling the Welch
and Highland Breeds ; and, like them, arc
valuable as ponies. The " pack horses," or
ordinary sort found in the inclosed country,
are of a similar nature; but larger. The
SADDLE horses, at present in use, are chiefly,
I believe, brought into the District, from
the Eastward. Of cart horses, no breed can
yet be said to be established. See beasts of
LABOR.
The BREEDING of Horses docs not enter
much into the practice of this District; except
on the skirts of the mountains.
24.
CATTLE.
THIS Species of Livestock are entitled to
every attention, in a Register of the Rural
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 235
Economy of the West of England. The
Breed ot Devonshire may well be considered
»is the most perfect Breed of Cattle in the
Island.
The Breed, The Rearing, and
The Breeding, The Fatting, of Cattle,
will require to be spoken of in detail.
Ix BREED, they are of the middle horn-
ed Class. There are numberless individuals
of the Devonshire Breed so perfectly resem-
bling the Breed of Herefordshire, in frame,
color, and horn, as not to be distinguishable
from that celebrated Breed ; except in the
greater cleanness of the head and fore quar-
ters ; and except in the inferiority of size..
The Cattle of Devonshire resemble those of
Sussex ; except in their greater symmetry of
frame, and their being much cleaner in the
fore end, and every where freer from otJal,
than the ordinary Breed of Sussex. The
Devonshire Cattle resemble very much, in
color, horn, cleanness, and symmetry of
frame, a few of the more perfect individuals
of the native Cattle of Norfolk ; but exceed
them greatly in point of size. They are a
mean between the Norfolk and the Here-
fordshire ; some individuals approaching to-
wards the former, others towards the latter ;
but.
236 CATTLE.
but, taken in general throughout the county,
thev approach the Herefordshire much nearer
than the Nortolk, v\;th respect to.size: be-
ing similar, in thi*^ and other respects, to the
breedsof GLOCESTERSHiREand South Wales.
These several breeds I conceive to have
sprung from the same stock. Their color
apart, they nearly resemble the wild cattle
which are still preserved in Chillixgham
Park, in Northumberland ; a seat of the
Earl of Taxkerville : and it appears to
me, that the ditferent breeds, above noticed,
are varieties, arising from soils and manage-
ment, of the NATIVE BREED OF THIS
ISLAND : — a race of animals, which, it is
highly probable, once ranged it, in a state of
nature ; as the butFalo does, at this day, the
wild regions of North America. The black
mountain breeds of Scotland and Wales
appear to me, evidently, to be from the same
race ; agreeing in every thing, but color,
with the red breeds that are here adduced.
The shorthoriicd breed, it is well known,
were imported from the continent ; and the
ioiighornedy it is more than probable, might
be traced from Ireland.
The Devonshire breed of cattle vary much,
in the different Districts of the count v, both
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 237
in size and mold. North Devonshire takes
the lead, in both these particulars ; and its
breed are, in both, nearly what cattle ought
to be. In size, they are somewhat below
the desirable point, for the heavier works of
husbandr}^ ; but they make up for this defi-
ciency, in exertion and agility. They are
beyond all comparison the best worhers I
have anywhere seen.
If they are to be still improved, as work-
ing CATTLE, it is by breeding from the largest
of the North Devonshire, and the cleanest
of the Herefordshire breed.
As Dairy cattle, the Devonshire breed
are not excellent. Rearing for the East-
countrs' graziers has ever, or long, been the
main object of the cattle farmers of this
countv. Nevertheless, I have seen some in-
dividuals of the breed, which e\-inced the
practicability of improving them, as dairy
stock : an instance ^\ ill appear in District IV.
As Grazing cattle, individuals, in every
part of the county, shew the breed to be
excellent.
In West Devonshire, the breed is con-
siderably smaller, than in the Northern part
of the county ; and their quahty, in every
respect, is inferior.
In
238 CATTLE.
In Cornwall, the breed gets coarser;
^^ith somewhat larger and more upright
horns * : bearing a similar affinitA* to the true
Devonshire breed, as the Shropshire cattle
do to those of Herefordshire : a striking and
interesting fact, to those at least who find
gratification, in observing the different ^•a-
rieties, and affinities, of this valuable species
of domestic animals.
The breeding of CATTLE. I had
no opportunity of attending to the practice
of North Devonshire, in this particular.
It is highly probable that a considerable share
of attention has been paid, for some time
past, to the choice of males, if not of females*
also ; as it is not probable that accident should
have raised them to their present cxccllencv.
The " MooRsiDE farmers," of this neigh-
bourhood, have little to answer for, in this
respect; most of the calves, they rear, are
purchased ; cither from the '* in-countrj'"
farmers of their respective neighbourhoods,
or are fetched from a distance : the calves of
the dairy farms of East Devonshire and even
Dorsct.^hire, are, I understand, bought in
srcat numbers, bv the farmers on the skirts
♦ Resembling, in the turn of the horn, the wild catilt
of Norihauiberland.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 239
of Dart more. The few which are bred, by
these farmers, are, as far as my own obser-
vations have gone, of a small, clean, hardy
sort ; adapted to mountain pasture.
In THIS District (West Devonshire) the
business of breeding cattle is conducted on
the worst of bad principles. If a calf, ^\ hich
otherwise would be reared, discover symp-
toms of a fattening quality, it is " bussed ;"
suffered to run with the cow, ten or twelve
months, in the manner of the running calves
of Norfolk * ; and is then butchered. If a
calf of this description fortunately escapes so
untimelv a fate, but should shew an inclina-
tion to fatten at two years old, it is indulged
in it*^ propensity. It follows, of course, that
the individuals which reach the stage of ma-
turity, and from which new gener,ations are
to be raised, are, as to fatting quality, the
mere refuse of the breed: and nothing, but
a strongly rooted inherent excellency of qua-
lity, could preserve them in the ordinary
state, in which they are at present found f .
In the rearing of CATTLE, I col-
* See Norfolk, Vol. II. page 121.
•t I am here registering the establtsiied practice of
the District ; not the spirited efforts of the few individuals
who are endeavoring to improve it.
240 CATTLE.
lected nothing, in this District, which is en-
titled to especial notice. The first year, the
calves are kept within the inclosures ; but,
the next, are generally sent to the commons
and hill pastures. Heifers are brought into
milk at two and a hait th four years old ; ac-
cording to circumstances. And steers are
broke into the yoke, at two or three ; ac-
cording to their size and maintenance.
What steers the Moorside farmers do not
want for their own \\ork, are sold to the in-
country farmers, who work them some-
times to eight, ten, or twelve years old.
When thrown up, they are principally sold
to jobbers ; or to graziers, from the Somer-
setshire side of the county.
Thus a calf, dropt in the dairy District of
East Devonshire or Dorsetshire, may be
nursed at the foot of Dartmore, and reared
on its hills ; worked in West Devonshire or
its environs ; and be driven back, through
bis native country, to be finished on the
marches of Somersetshire, for the J.ondon
market.
FAITING CATTLE. A portion, how-
ever, of the cattle reared in this country are
f^jLtcned in it, or rather broiigiit tbrward in
tlesh, for its own consumption. I did not
1^.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. «4i
see what in Sraithlield would be called a fat
bullock, in the country; except some two or
three which \\ ere finished, by a spirited in-
dividual, with the commendable view of ap-
pearing at the head of his profession, whether
asa grazier, or a butv^her; and his praiseworthy
exertions shewed, plainly, what the cattle of
Devonshire are capable of, under judicious
and spirited management.
West Devonshire, however, is not a graz-
ing District. Except some of the lands of
Mylton Abbot, Lamerton, Tavistock, &c. —
and these are confined within a narrow com-
pass, — the soil is too weak for grazing. Its
lands, in general, are better adapted to the
purpose of bringing cattle forward, for after-
grass, turneps, or oilcake, than for finishing
them for market.
A peculiarity of practice in the slaugh-
tering OF CATTLE, in this District, must not
be left unnoticed. In most parts of t"he
Island, it is customarv for butchers to bleed
calves, previously to their being killed. And
a similar custom prevails, here, with respect
to bullocks. Enquiring, of an experienced
and intelligent bui-cher, the motive for so ex-
traordinary a practice, he returned a satisfac-
tor}' answer. It assists in giving that dcbirable
VOL. r. R brightness
242 CATTLE.
brightness of color, wliich attracts the eye,
in purchasing beef on the shambles ; and
what is of much more advantage to the pur-
chaser (as well as to the butcher), it makes
the beef keep better, in warm or close wea-
ther ; so that it operates as an advantage,
both to the buver and the seller. And it is
highly probable, that, in the summer season,
and for ill fleshed bullocks at all seasons, the
practice might be found eligible, in other
places. The trouble and difficulty of the
operation, seems to be its greatest objection.
References to Minutes.
4. On the mountain-skirt breed of Dart-
more.
5. Some remarks on breeding; and on the
breed of Devon.
20. On the Buckland stock.
23. On charlock, as a food for cattle.
52. On pasturing young coppice woods, witk
cattle.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 843
THE DAIRY MANAGEMENT
OP
JVEST DEVONSHIRE, &c.
THE OBJECTS of the Dairy of this District
are
Calves. Skim Cheese.
Butter. Swine.
CALVES. They are either reared ; or are
fattened, in the house, for veal ; or are
turned abroad v^ith the cows, as ** busses"
or grass calves * : the last being a particular
X)f practice, which generally pays amply;
especially when the most promising calves
are chosen for this purpose. But the mis-
chievous tendency of the practice, in a gene-
ral \\cw, has been pointed out ; and, con-
ducted on the principles, on which it is here
carried
* Perhaps originally boises, or wood calves (in
contradistinction to house calves); namely, calves suf-
fered to run with their dams, in the woods, or forest
lands ; — the practice and appellation having probably
originated, while the country was m the forest state, and
have both of them been continued, since the present slate
of inclosure took place.
R 2
C44 DAIRY MANAGEMENT OF
rarried on, it cannot be too severely cen-
sured : I mean when follo\^'ed by a breeder.
When rearing is not an object of cowkeep-
ing, the practice of fattening calves at
GRASS, may frequently be eligible.
BUITER. The particular of manage-
ment, which most requires to be noticed, in
the DcAonshire Butter Dairy, is the singular
METHOD of RAISING THE CREAM; a praCticC
w hich is, or lately was, common to Devon-
shire and Cornwall. This pecuUarity consists
in employing culinary heat, to assist in for-
cing up the cream, with greater rapidity and
^fi'ect, than simply depositing the milk in
open vessels, in the ordinary way, produces.
The milk ha\*ing stood some time, iu
broad pans or vessels, either of brass or earthen
ware, it is placed in these pans over a gentle
heat; — generally over the wood embers of
the ordinary hearth ; but sometimes over
charcoal, in stoves titted up for that purpose;
— and remains in that situation until it ap-
proaches nearly to boiling heat : the proper
degree of hcut. being indicated by pimples,
or blisters, which rise on the surface of the
cream. The smallest degree of ebullition
breaks the texture of the cream (probably oils
K), and marjj the process ; ^^ hich Lb therefore
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ; a4S
properly termed " scalding ;" and the cream
thus raised istermed ''scald cream," or ''clout-,
ed cream ;" probably, from the tough clotli-
like texture which it acquires by this process..
The cream thus raised, remains on the
milk, — which is rendered yery sheer, lean,
and blue, by the process, — until the dairy
woman wants "to make the butter:" ano-
ther singular operation, in the Devonshire
dairy. The clouts or rags of cream being
thrown into a large wooden bowl, they are
stirred about, by a circuitous motion of the
hand and arm, until the butyraceous particles
unite ; leaving a small quantity of thick
creamlike matter, or serum ; answering to
the churn milk of the ordinary butter dairy.
In " scald cream dairies," no churn is in
use*.
The origin of so peculiar a practice may,
perhaps, be traced back to the forest state.
After the arts of producing butter and cheese
were discovered ; yet while, perhaps, each
family
* 1804. The following, I understand, are preUy general
rules of practice, in clouting cream. In summer, the
milk is suffered to stand one meal (twelve hours) between
the milking and the scalding ; in winter two meals ; and
the cream, always, to remain twentyfour hours on the milk,
between the scalding and the skimming.
r3
246 DAIRY MAXAGEMEXT OF
family was possessed of no greater dairy than
tN\'o or three cows ; anv process which en-
abled the proprietor of such a dairy to ma-
nufacture those valuable articles, with a de-
gree of certainty-, was embraced as eligible :
and how could a more fortunate process have
been struck out, than that of securins: the
milk and the cream from their natural pro-
pensity of entering the different stages of
fermentation, than the application of fire;
^vhich, at once, secures the milk from aci-
dity, and the cream from putrefaction ; until
a sufficient quantity of each can be laid up,
for the purposes to which they are particu-
larly appropriated ?
But the disad\-antages of tljis pristine prac-
tice are such as to render it ineligible, in the
present state of culti\'ation. If, in the or-
dinar}' practice, the embers prove too weak,
and an addirnnal beat be required, fresh fuel
is applied ; whereby, if a scrupulous attention
be not paid, the fatal ebulhtion may take
place, and the cream be mixed \\ ith the
ashes. AV'hile over the fire, especially if
fresh fuel be added, the surface receives the
more volatile parts of the fuel, with perhaps
a portion of soot ; and, after the pans are
taken off the fire, while they stand in the
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 247
kitchen or passages to cool, before they be
returned to the dairy, the cream is Kable to
the depredations of domestic animals ; as
well as to receive, in a variety of ways, ad-
ditional dust and dirt f.
In West Dorsetshire, and the Eastern
confines of Devonshire, where the scalding
of cream had been in use time immemorial,
the practice has lately given way to the or-
dinary method of raising the cream and churn-
ing it ; owing to the circumstance of the
butter of that District having found its way
to the London market ; as will be particularly
mentioned, in speaking of the dairy Dis-
trict.
In different parts of Devonshire and Corn-
wall, " raw cream dairies" are here and there
scattered. Gentlemen, especially strangers
who settle in the country, prefer '' raw
cream butter." That made from scalded
cream has frequently a smokey flavor, and
wants the even waxlike texture, observable in
well manufactured butter *. Two
t I am here speaking of the ordinary practice of far-
mers — such as I have seen in the District : Gentlemen,
and some dairy farmers, as has been before noticed, have
stoves fitted up for this operation, which render the prac-
tice much more tolerable.
* 1804. Cast-iron milk.-trays. Being aware of
R 4 an
5^8 DAIRY MANAGEMENT OF
Two reasons may be assigned for the na-
tives of these counties persevering in the
practice of clouting cream. Prejudice, or
the attachment to cstabHshed customs, may
be considered as one. The other is their at-
tachment to " scald cream," as a delicacy of
the table : being used in forming the " jun-
cates," for which this country is celebrated ;
and as a favorite addition to pastr}^ of differ-
ent sorts ; which is usually ser\ ed up with
clouts of cream. And, if the West of Eng-
land farmers prefer the pleasures of the palate
to the profits of the dairy, it might be ex-
tremely unbecoming to censure them, for
continuing their present system of dairy ma-
nagement.
SKIM CHEESE. I have not remarked any
thing in the manufacture of this article of the
Devonshire dairy, that has induced me to re-
gister the minutiae of practice. In the dairy,
an evil effect of leaden inilk-trays (see Yorkshire, Art.
MILK- leads), I wa« de>irous to make a trial of iron, for
the purpose of f<;rming receptacles of milk; not only as
being cheap and durable ; but as being of a more whole-
some and suecter nature, than either lead or wood.
Five years ago the experiment was made, here; and
has been found to answer every expectation.
By tinning the inside, it would be more easily kept
r'.ean.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 249
which I had the best opportunity of obsen--
ino^, the cheese was not genuine. However,
from general ideas which I gathered on the
subject, it is evident, that scalding the milk
is not unfriendly to cheese ; and it may be
worth the trial, whether scalding skim milk
in general, previously to its coagulation,
would not be eligible.
1 804. Judging from the practice of an ex-
perienced North AViltshire dairy woman, who
had the manas^ement of the Buckland dairv,
some vears, I have no doubt lett of the pro-
prietv of scalding skimmed milk, for the
purpose of cheesemaking.
26.
SWINE.
The breed, in this part of the Island,
is the same long, thin-carcased, white kind,
which has, pretty evidently, been once the
prevailing, if not the only, breed of the
Island *.
In the REARING of Swine, the most re-
markable circumstance is that of letting all
the
* See Yorkshire, Vol. II. p. 210 3 and Glocester-
SHIRE, Vol. I, p. 316.
?5« SWINE.
the females remain open; and for a very
sufficient reason : there is not, I understand
(even yet, 180-4), a Sparer, either of Cattle
or Pigs, in the District of A\'est Devonshire !
The FOOD of rearing Swine, while young,
is the refuse of the dairj-, with turneps, clo-
ver, and even grass, or ordinary herbage,
boiled ! — A new idea, in the management of
Swine. The food of larger store Swine is
chielly grass ; they being not unfrequently
driven to the same pasture ^^ ith the cows,
and brought home with them, at milking
hours : and are kept on in this way, until
they be two, or perhaps three, years old, be-
fore they be put up to fatten ! under an idea
that the bacon of old hogs goes farther, than
that made from young ones ; not calculating,
perhaps, the expence of keeping them to that
extravagant age.
The native breed of the country, it is said,
So not fat kindly, under eighteen months or
two years old ; but, through the attentions of
the late Sir Francis Drake, the District is,
at present, in possession of the first breed of
farm yard Swine in the Island ; namely, the
best variety of the Berkshire breed.
The method of FATTENING SWINE,
in this District, forms another of the many
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 151
singular practices which shew, that the De-
vonshire husbandry is not of English growth.
They are shut up in a narrow close hutch,
or closet, — called a " pig's house," in which
they eat, drink, and discharge their urine and
fasces ; w hich are formed, of course, into a
bed of mud, to sleep in ; their bristly coats
being presently converted into thick coats of
mail : in which plight they remain, until they
be slaughtered.
This extraordinary trait of practice is not
to be ascribed, wholly, to neglect ; but, in
part, to a principle of management, which,
it is highly probable, has been drawn from
experience. *' Fat pigs should lie wet; it
keeps them cool : they are of a hot nature,
and if they lie on dry warm litter, it melts
their fat !" And, when applied to pigs shut
up in a close place, without an aperture,
perhaps, at which to draw in a little cool
fresh air, there may be much truth in this
theory : which, however, would be futile, if
applied to hogs fatted in the ordinary practice
of the Island ; in which fatting swine have
a close room (be it ever so mean) to lie dry,
and sleep in, and an open one, or little yard,
to eat, drink, discharge, and breathe in.
The advantage of raising a larger quantity of
manure
252 s^y]^^E.
manure is, alone, a' sufficient recommendation
of the latter practice.
The MATERIALS OF FATTI^•G are Potatoes,
with Barley or Oats ground, or Barley boiled.
If fuel be cheap, and the mill at a distance,
boiling; the Barley may be as cheap, and as
little trouble, as having it ground.
The BoiLixG OF HOG FOOD, which makes
a part of the established practice, in this Dis-
trict, forms, at least, a fit subject of experi-
ment, in others. AN'here fuel is cheap, the
practice may perhaps be found proiitable.
SHEEP.
The e."^ablished BREED of the Coun-
try, whether we examine it on the moun-
tains of Devonshire and Cornwall, or in the
cultivated country- which lies between them,
is uniformlv of the middle- wooled class.
\Miat is o])-ervable however, — in describ-
ing a breed of Sheep, — their heads are va-
rioiu^^ly characterized : some individuals are
horned, others polled, or hornless, pro-
vinriallv *' nots;" and between these, there
are individuals bearing a mongrel deformity
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^53
of head ; as if they were really a mongrel
breed, of recent debasement.
Nevertheless, they have been, beyond me-
mory, the same as they appear, at present.
And what strongly corroborates the idea of
their bein^' a distinct breed, they are found
on the Northern skirts of Dartmore, about
Okehampton, of a diminutive size : not
larger than the heath Sheep of Norfolk. Yet,
in uniformity of wool, in disparity of head,
and in their general appearance, their size
apart, they perfectly accord with the larger
variety of what may well be considered as
the A2sClE^T BREED OF THE COU^NTRY.
It is observable, that, in the ditierent va-
-'lieties of this breed, there are manv indivi-
duals which bear so strong a resemblance to
the present breed of Dorsetshire, as to leave
little doubt of their having a natural alliance.
And it appears to me most probable, that
-the horned Sheep of Dorsetshire, &c. have
been originally drawn from the ancient breed
of the Western mountains ; by breeding from
a selection of the homed individuals. \\^hile
a polled or hornless breed, now seen in the
South Hams, may well seem, from their re-
semblance, to have been raised, by a similar
selection, from the hornless individuals of the
same
454 SHEEP.
same ancient stock. The encrease of carcase
and wool, wliich they have acquired, is such
as would naturally arise from mountain Sheep
being transferred to the rich soils, and genial
climature, of South Devonshire*.
The true Dorsetshire (as they are called),
or HOUSE-LAMB BREED, are found, at present,
in great purity, in the Vale of Exeter, and
in East Devonshire : of which breed there
are a few flocks, in this District ; but not of
the purest kind.
* It may, wiih great show of probability, be said, that
the Sheep of this countn,- are a mixtare of the two breeds
abovemcntioned. But from whence, it might be asked,
were these pure breeds imported ? Where are the mother
flocks ? Supposing them to have been imported, and set
down on the spois they now severally occupy, it must
neccssariiv have been some centuries ajio, to sive time to
their mongrtl progeny to mold themselves to soils and
citualionsj and it is very improbable, that, during the
dark davs of Agriculture, the two breeds should have been
preserved distinct and pure, as we now 6nd them j espe-
cially the homed variety. Beside, it will presently ap-
pear, that the idea of their having been brought to their
present state, by selection, is not only probable, but
practicable.
Let it be understood, however, that what is here sug-
ffcsted, respecting this interesting part of the History of
AonicuLTURE, in this Island, is intended to agitate the
subject, rather than to settle the point.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^55
The flock I found, at Buckland, were of
this description: but were in a state of neglect;
— reverting fast back to the native breed of
the country, both in carcase and head ! But
there being still a sufficiency of the truer breed
left, to recover the flock from its degeneracy,
it was thought more adviseable to improve
them, as the House-lamb breed, than to
change them for either of the more popular
sorts, that are working their way, even into
this remote part, — namely, the South Down
and the new Leicestershire*
I must not omit to mention, by the way,
a circumstance attending the improvement
of the Buckland flock ; as it farther corro-
borates the idea of the horned sheep of Dor-
setshire, &c. having been originally drawn
from the ancient mountain stock. In 1791,
the flock, viewed in the aggregate, bore a
much stronger resemblance to the ordinary
breed of the District, than to the Dorsetshire
breed ; especially in head, — a considerable
portion of them being polled, or nearly so.
Nevertheless, by a selection of females, and
by employing males of the established horned
breed of East Devonshire, there was, in
1 794, scarcely a horned individual left, in the
flock of Ave hundred : and, in that short
space
256 SHEEP.
space of time, a similar alteration of carcase
took place.
The two breeds abovementioned, are at
present, spreading, in all directions, over the
face of the Island ; and, in consequence, other
breeds will probably be neglected or lost :
and altho, in many respects, these two breeds
may excel the Dorsetshire ; yet they are
neither of them suitable for the House-lamb
farmers ; who may hereafter find it neces-
sary to give extravagant prices, for the only
breed which vs ill suit their purpose ; and
which may, therefore, turn out highly pro-
fitable, to those who now preserve it, in its
purity.
Beside, the House-lamb breed, distinctly
from that peculiar excellency, is, as grazing
stock, a valuable breed of Sheep. The wed-
ders, of the best sort, fat perfectly well, at
two years old ; and pay, perhaps, in a mid-
dlesoiled upland situation, as well as those of
any other breed *.
BREEDING SHEEP. From what has
been said respecting the heterogeneous state,
in which the ordinary tiocks of this Country
• Tbese remarks are not intended more to cxpliin my
own motives, for preferring an established breed, than as
hints to those who have similar flocks in their possession.
West Devonshire. j^7
how appear^ it is not probable that much at-
tention has lately been paid to the se^lection
of either males or females ; and, yet, no
part of the Island would repay such an
attention, better, than Devonshire ; a prin-
cipal part of whose lands are peculiarly suit-
able for Sheep.
The TIME OF PUTTING THE RAMS TO THE
EWES is very early, compared with that of
most other Districts. In tlie lower parts of
the District, the middle of July is the ordi-
nary time ; the lambs, of course, beginning
to drop, about Christmas ; the month of Ja-
nuary being the principal time of la:mbing.
In the treatment of Ewes and Lambs, I
met \\ ith little obsersablc, in this District :
kept grass is chiefly depended upon, as the
food of suckling Es\ es. Turneps are some-
times given to them : but it is found, here,
as in other places, that altho Turneps furnish
a flush of milk, and are beneficial to the
Lambs, they do not, at the same time, aflbrd
suthcicnt nourishment to the Ewes ; which
never fail to sink in flesh, when fed on Tur-
neps alone.
The usual time of weaning lambs is May
or June ; except for the late dropped Lambs,
whose dams did not take the Ram in due
VOL. I. s season.
25» bHttP.
season. Tli€-se are suifered to run with the
Ewes, and, it' dropped ver)' late, as in Apnl.
apegenerallv consigned to the Butcher.
Ql,-ere, May not a long continuaDce of the
practice ot breeding from the early dropped
Lambsj and kilhng otf those which are lamb-
ed later in the season, have assisted in giving
the remarkable propensity or habit, peculiar
to the Sheep of this quarter of the Island, of
admitting the male, at a time when the other
breeds it contains are indifferent to the inter-
course of the sexes ?
STORE SHEEP. In the shepherding of
SHEEP, the particular which most merits ob-
servation, relates to the skill of the Devonshire
Shepherds in the training of their dogs : and
something perhaps may depend on the nature
or breed of these useful animals. This being as
it may, I have not obser\ed so much sagacit}',
activity, and subordination, m the Shepherd's
dt^ of any other District.
This breed of dogs are somew hat shagg\',
tall on tlieir legs, and have very short tails ;
the colors arc various ; but mostly grizzled ;
some are of a b«.»rt of dun color ; — others — a
larger smootlier kind, — I have scon of a black
or dark color, marked witli white.
The excellency of these d^>es renders sheli?
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 259
PENS, in a degree, imnecessary. If Sheep
require to be looked over, or examined, as
to be handled by the butcher, or to be dress-
ed, or cleaned, tho it may require an hour's
confinement, they are driven into a corner,
and closely pent up there, by one or more
dogs, until the business be completed.
If an experienced Shepherd wish to inspect
his flock, in a cursory way, he places him-
self in the middle of the field or piece they
are depasturing, and, giving a whistle or a
shout, the dogs and the sheep are equally
obedient to the sound ; the former fly from
him, with their swiftest speed, while the
latter, from every quarter, draw towards him
in considerable haste, long before the dogs
have time to approach them. The stragglers
are driven in, by the circuitous route of the
dogs ; which keep flying round, from side to
side, until the flock be gathered round the
Shepherd, close enough, not only to be seen,
but to be laid hold of, by him, if any thing
wrong be suspected.
An objection would be raised against this
practice, by the Shepherds of heavy, long-
wooled Sheep ; as tending to alarm, disturb,
and injure the flock : but little of this is in
fact produced : for, being accustomed to it,
s 2 from
26o SHEEP.
from their earliest i\^c, no alarm appears to
take place. They \n ill even follow the Shep-
herd about, as if they were sensible of his
care and protection. But such is the etfect
of habit, over almost every species of the
animal kingdom, when it is early induced,
and when it is brought on b} the example of
parents, or intimates of riper years.
1804. So far from the agitation of Sheep
being here considered as detrimental to them,
it is, I understand, more or less used as a
preventive of one of the most fatal maladies
to which young Sheep are liable : namely,
the blood, blackwatcr, braxey, &c. ; almost
every province having a separate term for it.
I have long conjectured that it proceeds from
a plethora, or fulncbs of habit ; as it gene-
rally attacks the most thriving and lusty in-
dividuals ; which may appear in pcrtect vi-
gor, and be found dead, within the space of
a few hours. A (juantity of black or livid
water, or seru/n, is usually fomid in the ab-
dominal cavity ; and the tlesh presently be-
comes putrid. ,
The precaution used, here, is to drive them
about, with dogs, early in the morning, while
they are empty ; keeping them in brisk mo-
tion, for some time. The agitation, it is pro-
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 261
bable, not only gives the required freedom of
circulation ; but the perspiration which such
exercise must naturally promote, may assist
in removing the cause of the disorder.
The suMMEH KEEP of Shcep, in the ordi-
nary practice of the District, consists chiefly
of the commons and rough pastures of the
low countr}-, or of the hills of Dartmore ; to
whicli Sheep are driven, in the summer sea-
son, from a considerable distance. Even some
of the larger flocks are sent thither; espe-
cially, in a dry season, when the cultivated
leys are burnt up. In winter, they are of
course brought back to the in closures ; and
to such keeping as the Farmer can find for
them. Snow seldom lying long, on the lower
grounds of this District, very little hay is
given to store Sheep,
A striking feature in the management of
Sheep, throughout Cornwall, and in the
Western half of Devonshire, is that of omit-
ting TO AVASII THEM, PREVIOUSLY- TO THE
SHEARING !
This practice, like many other practices in
husbandry, has its advantages and disadvan-
tages, hi this case the wool weighs heavier ;
but the price is lower, for " wool in the
yolk," than it is for washed wool; so that
S3 it
262 SHEEP.
it probably makes little tor or against the
grower ; and, to the marAifacturer, tho it
may require somevN hat more labor in clean-
ing, there is a saving of soap, which more
than makes up the loss of labor. Wool which
has been \vashed on the Sheep's back, re-
quires soap, to cleanse it properly for manu-
facture ; but in unwashed wool, the '^yolk,"
or vellow eg^-colored matter which is lodged
among it, precludes the use of any additional
detergent. Thus it becomes, to the manu-
facturer, a matter of no great importance,
whether Sheep be washed or not.
It is observable, however, that wool shorn
in the yolk, is liable to take a considerable
degree of heat ; a circumstance which, if
made the most of, may be highly serviceable
to the farmer ; but the process of fermenta-
tion having ceased, it is probable, that not
only the weight decreases very rapidly, but
that the quality of the wool, loaded with so
much dirt, likewise decreases. Beside, if
the place of growth and the place of manu-
facture, be, as they too frequently are, dis-
tant from each other, the additional weight
is an objection to the practice under notice :
which, tho it may be perfectly right, in
z District that manufactures its own wool.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 265
cannot perhaps be generally adopted, Avith
propriety.
1804. The weights of washed and un-
washed wools are nearly as two to three : —
a circumstance of some consideration, when
distant carriage is required, llie price of
unwashed wool, this year, is about tld.; that
of Washed, about iGtl.
IV. FATTING SHEEP. Little is required
to be said on this subject.
The DESCRIPTION of Sheep, fattened, in-
cludes wedders, aged ewes, and mountain
sheep, bought in for this purpose, by the in-
country farmers.
The MATERIALS OF FATTING are grass,—
particularly the aftergrass of young leys, —
turneps^ &c. The market, chiefly Plymouth
and its environs.
References to Minutes.
53. On the spring food of Ewes and Lambs.
Oi . On folding slieep on grass land.
For the Cornish breed of Sheep, see Dis-
trict the THIRD.
For the Sheep of Dartmore, see that I)is-
trict ; also District the fourth (Env. of
Okehampton) : and Minute 45.
s 4 28.
i64 RABBITS.
28.
RABBITS.
I OBSERVED only one Rabbit ^^'alTen in
the District, — which is now stocked ; with a
small one, that lias been diswarrened. Ne-
vertheless, there appears to me to be much
land in the West of Devonshire, &c. which
would pay better in a state of Rabbit warren,
than in any other state of occupancy. I
mean the higher weaker lands, and where
the sides of the hills have a sufficiency of
loose earth or rubble, for the rabbits to bur-
row in. The markets of Plymouth, and its
Dock, would not fail to take otf the produce.
An objection to Rabbits, in or near the
inclosed country, lies in their being destruc-
tive to the large hedge mounds of this Dis-
trict ; in \^■hich they burrow, and become a
species of vermin, ditlicult to extirpate; scoop-
ing out the inside ; where they make their
lodgements; generally with an entrance on
each sid(;, and a third or perhaps a fourth,
on the top. But if w arrens were sufficiently
fenced in the Yorkshire manner, and the
fences properly attended to, this objectioi:^
WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^
would lose much of its weight. The warren
I saw, on the skirts of Dartmore, had no
sufficient fence to prevent the Rabbits from
straying.
29.
POULTRY.
THE only circumstance that struck mc,
in Devonshire, with respect to this petty
article of Livestock, was the scarcity of Eggs,
compared with the number of fowls. The
markets of Plymouth, I understand, are sup-
plied with eggs, in some considerable part,
from the North of Devonshire ; from whence
they are sent, twenty or thirty miles, by
land; and this while, to common appearance,
there are a sufficient number of Fowls kept,
within ten miles of it, to supply all its wants
of this article.
This circumstance did not strike me, until
I had obser\-ed the practice of Scotland ;
where, from no greater appearance of Fowls,
the quantity of Eggs consumed in the coun-
try, and the immense quantities sent, espe-
cially from Berwick, to the London mar-
ket, are almost incredible.
These
266 POULTRY.
These extraordinary facts led me to a closer
examination of this subject, than I had, there-
tofore, thought it entitled to ; and it e^'ident-
ly appears, that the whole disparity of pro-
duce may be traced to a disparity of manage-
ment.
In Scotland, Fowls in general roost in the
warm smokey cottages of their ou ners ; are
nurtured, and forced in a hot house. The
consequence is, they produce Eggs in every
season ; and, generally speaking, the year
round. The Gentlemen of Scotland, seeing
the superiority of the Cottage Fowls, in their
productiveness of Eggs, have removed the
comparative sterility of their own, by keep-
ing them, literally, in hot houses ; built
on a similar principle to those in ^^•hich
exotic plants are conser\'ed : flues being form-
ed in the walls ; with niches or small re-
cesses, on the inside, for the Fowls to lay
and breed in : with roosts for them to rest
on at night.
The same sort of fecundity is well known
to be produced, by the warm livery stables
of London.
On the contrary, in Devonshire, Fowls
roost in the cool open air; frequently in trees;
in a state of nature.
WEST DE\'ONSHIRE. 967
The Fowl, in its native woods, probably,
bred only once a year; and, of course, pro-
duced Eggs at no other season ; and, I think,
we may fairly infer, that the nearer they are
sultered to approach that state, the less fruit-
ful they will prove.
REFERENCES
TO
^MISCELLANEOUS ]MINL"rES,
IN
West Devonshire.
4. Remarks on the names of hundreds.
— . The Plymouth leat, or made brook, no-
ticed.
5. A remark on surveying a District.
C. Preliminary steps to rural improvements
enumerated.
7. A general principle of improvement.
10. Further of viewing a District.
13. The Plymouth aqueduct; its description
and origin.
— . General remarks on made streams.
20. On constructing river guides.
Jo,
On societies of agriculture.
25.
a68 REFERENCES TO MINUTES.
25. On associations of landed gentlemen.
27. On the use of natural streams.
— . On conducting artificial rills.
28. On destroying earth worms, with wal-
nut leaves.
5Q. On a new line of road between I-ondon
and the AN'cst of England.
DISTRICT THE SECOND.
THE
SOUTH HAMS
OF
DEVONSHIRE.
Introductory Remarks.
The knowledge which I gained, of this Dis-
trict of the West of England, was collected
in passing through it repeatedly, in mjjour-
nies to and from West Devonshire ; in ait
excursion purposely made, in the autumn
of 1791, to examine into its Natural Cha-
racters, and to mark how far its Rural ]\Ia-
nagement differs from that of the District,
which circumstances had assigned me as mv
principal station ; and in viewing a part of
the Drake estate, which lies within the
South Hams.
The EXCURSION was made from Ivy-
bridge, a rich and romantic situation, at
the
2 70 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
the foot of the Dartmore mountain, to Mod-
bury, and KiNGSBRiDGE ; thence to Totness
and its fertile environs : and from thence, —
returning by a different route, — to Ivybridge.
In describing the Natural Characters, and
the Outlines of Management, observed in
this District, I shall, here, as on other occa-
sions, pursue the method which Nature and
Science dictate.
GENERAL VIEW
OF
THIS DISTRICT.
SITUATION. The South Hams form the
"Southernmost point of the Department of
Country which is the subject of the present
Volumes. Its natural boundaries are Dart-
more (and detached Heights, on its Southern
skirts) on the North ; Plymouth Sound, on
•the West ; and the Estuary of the Dart, on
the East ; — the English Channel sheathing
its Southern point : — its outline, or figure,
1>eino: .-omcwhat trianmilar.
EXTENT. Estimating (he base of tlie tri-
•angle at thirty miles, and its perpendicular
SOUTH HAMS. ijt
at fifteen miles, we have an area of two hun-
dred and twentyfive miles ; but if we include
the rich valley of the Dart, which runs up
towards Ashburton, we may set down the
extent of the South Hams at two hundred
and fifty square miles, or one hundred and
sixty thousand acres.
ELEVATION. The tide flows up the
estuaries, — with which the District is deeply
indented on every side — except the North, —
a considerable way within its area : neverthe-
less, the tops of the hills of wliich the Dis-
trict may be said to be composed are elevated
considerably above the Sea. Viewing it with
regard to Agriculture, it is truly an Upland
District. The bolder swells, towards the
center of it, might be termed Heights ; al-
tho, in comparison with the Mountains that
overlook them, they are Hillocks of a pigmy
order.
SURFACE. Viewed from even the mid-
way stages of the Dartmore Hills, from
whence almost every acre of the South Hams
is distinctly seen, the Surface appears flat,
or barely furrowed with water courses, — a
broad flat of marshes, or an extent of low
vale lands !
But in crossing the country,, the Traveller
finds'
17« DrSTRtCt.
finds endless diliiculties, arising from th^
great inequalities of surface. It is billowy in
tlie extreme. Some Ot the s^^ ells are nearly
semiglobular. llie South Hams are the
Stroudwater Hills ot Glotcstershire, x^ithout
wood, — or the most billowy passiiges of the
Chalk Hills of Kent or Surrey, intersected
with hedges. Round Totness, the ground is
most strongly featured ; being there divided
by deep vallies ; and from thence to the feet
of the Darrmore Hills, a similar style of ridge
and "valley is observed ; corresponding with
the surface of the more Western District.
WATERS. The Hills of the South Hams,
as those of West Devonshire, are well wa-
tered. Springs arc seen to pour forth their
limpid rills from the sides of the swells, and
frequently from near their summits. The
waters from these springs collect in the val-
lies, and form rivulets and minor rivers ;
five or six of which have their estuaries, ad-
vancing some miles within the area of this
favored District*.
* How well situated are the South Hams, and ej.pc-
cially, their Northern margin, for mills of manufac-
ture. — ^Yet. fortunately for Agriculture (as will presently
appear), there is not at present, I believe, one within il3
area ; and but very few on it> margin : owing, probably,
to the expcnsivcness of fuel, in this part of the Island.
SOUTH HAMS. a^j
The Dart is a stream of considerable mag-
nitude. The rest mere brooks, at dead water;
but swell into rapid torrents, in the times of
floods. The Yalm, at Ivybridge, is a moun-
tain torrent of the first rank.
SOILS. To convey the best idea, I am
able, of the soils of this fertile District, I will
adduce the remarks which were made, at the
different times of examining them.
Ivybridge to Kingsbridge. The Soil uni-
formly fertile. The tops of some of the hills
are rich grazing ground ! Other hills are
leaner and less productive. But I observed
not a field worth less than ten or fifteen shil-
lings, an acre. The whole ride is worth twenty
shillings, on a par! much of it forty shillings,
an acre, to a Farmer. The sides of the hills
are excellent corn land ; — the bottoms rich
meadows. Some little red soil is seen, in
this ride.
KiNGSBRiDGE TO ToTXEss. The nature
and appearance of the country axe much
like those observed, between Ivybridge and
Kingsbridge; excepting a high swell or swells,
the soil of which is much inferior to any, in
the foregoing ride : — The produce fiirzey,
inclinable to heath : one of the Chudleigh
Hills, or a mass of the Dartmore mountain,
VOL. I. T thrown
274 DISTRICT.
thrown in liere. Much red soil appears in
this ride. The water of the road, in some
places, red almost as blood : — :n this respect,
dilferiiig from West Devonshire, and par-
taking of tiie District of Torbay. See Mi-
Environs of Totxess. The soil of these
Hills is rich in the extreme,— even to their
verv summits ! most rich grazing ground.
Autumnal grass, near a foot long, now re-
clining on the ground ; as gross, and as darkly
green, as the autumnal herbage of the Vale
or Berkley.
ToTNEss TO IvYBRiDGE. ITie soil similar
to that of the central and more Southern
parts of the District ; but, on the whole, not
so good.
IvvBRiDGE. A rich plot of ground to the
East of the Yalm : a deep loam on a sort of
gravel : worth, to a Farmer, thirty or forty
shilhngs, an acre.
Sherfoed E.«?tate. The Country* is at
present so completely burnt up, with the in-
veterate drought of this summer (1794), that
no accuracy of judgement can Ije form'-v' of it.
The soil, in general, is evidently of a superior
^tiahty. But judging from the present ixirch-
cdness of the crops, some parts of it are as
SOUTH HAMS. 175
evidently too shallow : a defect which ap-
pears to be common to many of the lands of
the South Hams.
General Observations. From the sum
of these particulars, it is evident, that this
District, with respect to soil, ranks high
among the fertile Districts of the Island.
There are very few, of equal extent, to place
in competition with it.
SUBSOILS. In the South Hams, as in
West Devonshire, slatey rock, and slate-
stone rubble, are the prevailing Substrata :
with, however, a few variations in the for-
mer, \\ hich are not observable in the latter.
A vein of limestone runs along the Northern
margin of the South Hams ; in different parts
of its area, a deep red ochrey loam is observ-
able ; and, at the foot of Dartmore, a sort
of gravel is met with. But these variations
are only incidental ; and it may be said of
this District, as of West Devonshire, that
its lands are clean and sound, adapted either
to corn or grass ; — inclining towards the ex-
treme of absorbency, rather than to that of
rctentiveness.
TOWNSHIPS. Some of those on the
Northern margin of the District, at the feet
of the Dartmore Hills, are very extensive : a
T 2 circuiBstuHCC
276 DISTRICT.
circumstance whirh has probably arisen from
the unreclaimed state ot their lands, at the
time thev were distributed into Townships.
But the more remarkable circumstance ot
the lands of the area of the District — of lands
so drv, rich, and habitable as those of the
South Hams — lying in Townsliips above the
ordinan* size, may be more dirficult to be
accounted for. Perhaps, the best reason that
can be assigned for it is their ha\ing been
kept long in a state of open pasture ; as their
name would seem to import ; and were thinly
inhabited, when Townships m ere laid out ;'
their present state of inclosure and cultivation
being of comparatively modern date.
TOWNS, &c. PLYMoirrH and its En\-i-
rons have the same intiuence on the Western
margin of the South Hams, as they* have on
West Devonshire. And the sea port of Dart-
mouth draws otF some part of the produce
of the Eastern qu:u-ter.
The more inland market towns areToTNESS,
pLTMPTOy, MODBURY, and KiNGSBRIDGE :
with several considerable \ ill ages *.
• It mav be remarked of ibc towns and villages of
Pcvon.^hire, that they are often ver\- extraordinarily situ-
ated, — a^>\,i^ ::trpildcd valUes ! The itreels, it would
SOUTH HAMS. €77
INLAND NAVIGATION. The Estuaries,
which have been mentioned, afford conve-
nient passage to small vessels ; and, perhaps,
preclude the use of Canals, while the (Coun-
try remains in its present state. From Rings-
bridge, considerable quantities of corn and
cider are said to be sliipped off. Small mast
vessels reach Totncss. And Aunton Gifford,
a finely situated Village, has its Estuary ;
which, howe\^er, like the rest, is shrinking
from the spot, where, in much probability,
it formerly gave rise to the Village or Town,
which it has now deserted. But some rich
marsh lands, which it has left in its stead,
more perhaps than recompense the loss.
ROADS. On the Roads, as on the Soils,
of the South Hams, I will trauscribc the
extemporary remarks which I find in my
journals.
Exeter to Plymouth. The Road, tho
generally too narrow, is in many parts ex-
ceedingly well formed, and well kept. The
materials blue marble, and a hard rust-colored
stone. In some places, the barrel of the
Pvoad
seem, as the roads, have been, origlnallv, the wood
tracks, or driftways, of the pastoral tribes. Modburv is a
striking instance.
T 3
278 DISTRICT.
Road might be termed the segment of a mar-
ble cyhnder. But the lofty hedges, on either
side, are not only intolerable nuisances to
the Traveller, whom they seclude; but, in
many parts, are injurious to the Road. The
Magistrates have, therefore, a double motive
for enforcing the law ; so far, at least, as to
strike olf the side boujjhs which contract the
lanes, and overshadow the Road ; and, in
suitable parts, as at the more abrupt bends,
to keep the brushwood down to the banks ;
— at once, to let in currents of air, to dry the
road when wet, and to disperse the dust
when drv ; and, at the same time, to disclose
the beauties of their Country, to those who
travel through it. Beside, by obliging their
tenants to prune the hedges of the Roads,
they might see the utility of the practice, and
might be induced to extend it to Farm fences
in general *.
IvYBRiDGE TO KixGSBRiDGE. The Roads
are most intricate ; numerous, narrow, and
crooked ; and rendered similar in their ap-
pearance, by the same tall banks, and taller
hedge wood, which are common to the Dis-
trict ; and this without guide posts to assist
• See the Minutes, 12 and 15, on this subject.
SOUTH HAMS. ^7^
the stranger : especially in the bye roads,
where they are the most \\ anted. They are
likewise most unlevel, — braving the steep,
where side-long roads would be equally near.
Environs of Totness. The private Roads,
to grounds, how steep ! straight in the face
of the steepest part of the hill ! First, no
doubt, foot paths ; still horse paths. Some
of them too steep, even for sledges.
ToTNEss TO IvYBRiDGE. The Roads much
better laid out in this, than in the other rides.
Tliey frequently lead along the tops of the
hills, and wind across the vallies. There is
much level road, and comparatively little that
is steep. The materials stone ; beaten tole-
rably small, — and covered, when fresh laid
on, with earth or rubbish, to bind the rough,
materials; and thus to render the road im-
mediately travelable : this being one of the
few instances, that I have met with in com-
mon practice, of this most eligible method.
STATE OF INCLOSURE. The entire
District, some small plots excepted, is in a
state of permanent inclosure ; and mostly in'
well sized fields, with straight fences ; ex-
cept against public lanes ; which are in ge-
neral winding ; as if they had been formed
to confine such fortuitous roadways, as we
T 4 frequently
2Bo DISTRICT.
frequently see deviating across forests, and
other open commonaiJe lands : a fact which
renders it highly probable, that the District
was inclosed from a state of common pasture;
or from a state of pasture lands intermixed
with temporary' arable inclosures ; such as
have been already particularly noticed. See
page .3 ] .
HEDGEROWS. The Danmonian FexVce
is common to the South Hams. High mounds
surmounted by coppice wood. Not a Hedge-
ro^v Tree, nor a Pollard is seen, in a hundred
square miles ! As naked of Hedge Timber,
as tlie recently inclosed lands of Leicester-
shire. Perhaps the sea air is an enemy to
Hedgerow^ Trees. Or the high mounds of
this Countr}' arc not fit to receive them. Or
the life-lease tenure has an interest in pre-
venting their rising.
PRESENT PRODUCTIONS. Along the
Northern margin of the District, and on the
steep rugged banks of the Dart, plots of
Woodland are observable: — also more or
less about Places, and the larger farmsteads.
But speaking generally of the ^outh Hams of
Devonshire, they may be said to be destitute
of woo 1 ; except what glows on the hedge
banks. Tct the fuel of the Countrv is wood;
SOUTH HAMS. 9»i
and it is, I believe, abundantly supplied with
that necessary article, from its Hedges : a
circumstance which would no longer appear
extraordinary, if we were to calculate the
proportional quantity of the lands of the
District, which they occupy.
The Produce of its farm lands varies in
different parts of the District. • Not only the
bottom;s or cooms, in almost every part, are
kept in a state of permanent grass ; but, in
some parts, the sides, and even the summits,
of the swells, particularly about Totness, are
preserved in the same state. And altho I
observed no extensive plots of such lands, as
there are about Mylton Abbot and Lamer-
ton ; yet, taking the District throughout, the
proportion of permanent grass land, in the
South Hams, is considerable. -■
The appearance of the COUNTRY.
Notwithstanding the extraordinary beauty of
the ground, or natural surface, of this Dis-
trict, it IS far from being rich in picturable
scenery. Square fields, and straight lines of
Hedgewood, how profitable soever they may
be to the farmer, and pleasurable to a mind
reflecting on their utilii'\% — are not grateful
to an eye, viewing them in the light of Or-
nament.
This,
282 DISTRICT.
This, however, applies most closely to the
area, or more central parts, of the South
Hams. The Northern margin is finely di-
versified. In the valley of the Dart, about
Totness, the views in every direction are
fine. Compositions the most striking might
here be caught. Below Ringsbridgc too, the
scenery is fine. And from Modbury Churchy
in the area of the District, some lovelv
views are seen : winding cooms, backed by
the rugged scenery of the Northern margin,
and distanced by the mountain heights of
Dartmore. But an eye delighted with the
wilder scenery of nature, will find, on the
banks of the Yalm, above and below Ivy-
BKiDGE, the fullest scope for its gratification.
TENANCY. Lifeleaschold is the prevail-
ing Tenure, or Tenancy, of the South Hams,
as of West Devonshire.
poor's rate. An evidence of the mis-
chiefs which MANUFACTURES are capable of
entailing on Agriculture, stands conspicuous,
at present (l/Ql), in this District.
Some years since, a woollen manufactory,
of considerable extent, was s<"t on foot, at
Modburv, and carried on with spirit, and
with success to the individuals who prose-
cuted it. But their end being answered, the
SOUTH HAMS. ««3
manufacture ceased, and all the vice and de-
bility, which it had drawn together, w^ere
left as a load upon the parish. The conse-
quence of which is, I am informed, the Occu-
piers of lands, within the township of jSIod-
bur}-, are now paying five shillings in the
pound, to the poor, while those of the sur-
rounding parishes do not paj two shillings.
THE
AGRICULTURE
OF
THIS DISTRICT.
FARiVIS. Most of the characteristics
of the Farms of the South Hams appear in
the foregoing Remarks, on the present state
of the District at large.
The SIZES of Farms, here, are various ; the
South Hams resembling, in this and other
respects, the more Western parts of this
quarter of the count} . Fifty pounds, a year,
rack rent, is esteemed a middJt:-sized Farnu
One hundred pounds, a year, a full-sized one:
with.
lU AGRICULTURE.
%vith, howeAer, some " Bartons" of greater
magnitude.
FARMERS. In a country' which is prin-
cipally divided into small Farms, it would be
unreasonable to look for many of that valu-
able order of men, who are usuallv stvled
CAPITAL Farmers. At the fair ot Plympton,
or at the market of Kingsbridgre, I saw no
appearance of men of this rank in society.
Nevertheless, men of enlightened minds are
familiarly spoken of. Indeed, from some
modern improvements, which will appear in
this detail,, to hare been introdmoed into the
District, \^e might safely conchide, without
other evidence, that it possesses men, who
think for themselves, and act without the
autho^it^' of their ancestors.
BEASTS OF LABOR. These are Oxex,
Horses, and Asses : the last being not un-
commonly used for pack loads.
The PLOW TEAM is four or six oxen ; or
four light, or two heavier oxen, with two
horses before them ; or three, or in some
instances, only two, horses, — ^^*ith a boy, or
a man, to drive, or lead them.
' A ROAD TEAM I do not remcmbcr to have
seen, out of the more public roads, and very
few in them. Pack horses, I believe, are
SOUTH HAMS. 68$
the prevailing, or universal, means of trans-
fer ; whether of produce, of manure, or of
materials in general.
IMPLEINJLENTS. The waggon and the
CART may be said to be wanting, in the
South Hams ; which, in this particular, ap-
pear, from every thing I have seen and heard,
to be behind West Devonshire. I have seen
building stones carried on horseback along
tlie finest road in the kingdom ; close by the
side of which they were raised ; and convey-
ed to a neighbouring town, through which
the road passes.
In the PLOW of this District, I observed
no deviation from that of West Devonshire ;
except in the addition of a foot, in one or
more instances.
MANAGEMENT of FARMS. The only
observable deviation, in the general manage-
ment of the South Hams, from what may be
styled the genuine Dajsmo^jian Husbandry,
lies in the proportion of corn crops to tem-
porary ley grounds, on the lands that are
subjected to an alternacy of corn and herbage.
In West Devonshire, the regular distribu-
tion has been broken, in some sort, by the
introduction of Turxeps and Potatoes *,
In
286 AGRICULTURE.
In the South Hams, the breach has been
made still wider, by the introduction of clo-
ver LEYS FOR WHEAT, and the practice of
sowing WHEAT AFTER TURNEPS.
How long these practices have been intro-
duced, I did not learn. But from their not
having vet reached the more Western Dis-
trict, it is likely they are of modern date.
And altho I observed them in several in-
stances, they are probably not yet introduced
into the ordinary management, even of this
District.
The Crops of the South Hams are the
three corn crops of JFheaf, Barley, and Oats.
The Pulses are sparingly, if at all, cultivated
in the District. Beans, at least, are import-
ed, in quantity. Some Titrucps, a few Po-
tatoes, and cultivated hcrbase, form the rest
of its arable crops.
MANAGEMENT of SOILS. Very little
struck mc, in this department of manage-
ment, as ditfering from the practice of West
Devonshire. The same veiling, burning, and
one plowing of ley grounds, for Wheat and
Turneps, are observable : with, however, in
some cases, an additional species of tillage ;
which, tho partially used, throughout this
SOUTH HAMS. 287
quarter of Devonshire, did not fall under my
inspection, in the more Western District.
This operation in tillage, has for some
length of time, I understand, been practised
here, under the ludicrous name of ** torment-
ing." It is performed with a subplow * of
many shares, ^4•hich are lixed in a triangular
frame, supported by wheels; these shares,
or suB-HOES, w^orking a few inches beneath
the surface ; — in the manner of the Kentish
NiDGET. See Southern Counties, Sect. Im-
plements.
The only instance, in which I particularly
examined it in use, was on a ley ground
which had been veiled, &c. for Turncps, to
be sown on one plowing: the tormenting
being done previously to the plowing ; for
which it is an admirable preparation ; as not
only separating the roots of w eeds, but break-
ing the soil, and rendering it the more obe-
dient to the harrow. As a preparation for
Wheat, to be sown under similar circum-
stances, the operation, perhaps, may be found
equally eligible f .
iMANURES.
♦ See Minutes of Agriculture, in Surrey.
t 1804. I have found it of great use, as a preparation
to the seed plowing, for Barley, after Turneps that have
been eaten off late in the season.
28^ AGRICULTURE.
MANURES. The same manures, and the
same management of them, are common to
the South Hams, and to West Devonshire.
The use of sea sand is fast dechning. Limb
is in full repute, and is managed, I believe,
without deviation, agreeably to the method
which has been described. And beat burn-
ing, tho prohibited by some, is still in high
estimation.
WHEAT. A NEW VARIETY of Wheat has
lately been raised in this District, and is Ukely
to become a favorite sort *. This improve-
ment, having been made by a Farmer, or a
Farmer's son, and adopted by professional
men, is a strong evidence that the bonds of
prejudice are at length broken.
Succession. Burnt ley ground appears to
be still the prevaihng matrix for Wheat.'
But, as has been mentioned. Clover leys, and
Turnep lands, are now more or less sown
with this crop.
The TIME OF SOWING. In going over the
District, in the latter end of October, I had
an opportunity of observing this particular.
Sowing was then commencing. But, in ge-
neral^ the lime and earth still remained, in
• For an accurate mclhoJ of raising varieties of
Wheat or other grain, sec Yorkshire, Art. Wheat.
SOUTH HAMS. 7Z9
wof heaps, unspread : and, in many places,
among Turneps, uneaten off. Some Clover
leys were then breaking up, and, in one or
two instances, men and women were hacking
over the plowed gi'ound, to receive the seed *.
November is probably the principal season of
sowing. But it is thought " very well if they
finish by Christmas." Can this be right ? Is
the practice peculiarly adapted to tlie clima-
ture of the South Hams ? Or is it pursued,
to counteract the foulness of the soil f ? Or
is it merely a bad practice, that wants to be
improved ?
TURNEPS. In the South Hams, as in
West Devonshire, Tumeps are still univer-
sally grown, after temporar}' Ley ; except a
few that are sown in autumn, on ^^'heat
stubble. I met with no instance, nor could
I hear of any, in which they were sown after
Wheat or Oats, of the preceding year ; agree-
ably to the prevailing practice of England.
Nor did I see or hear of an instance, in
which Turneps were cleaned, and set out at
suitable distances, wiih the hoe, as in that
practice.
GRASS LANDS, The species of Grass
land,
' * See p. 185.
t Wheat stubbles, in general, were then in full herbage.
VOL. I, U
4r AGRICULTURfS;'
land, her^. as in the more Wrsttni Distncf/
are -"^
^'Tifotvhig gronnds, or meadows ; which ape'
partially watered, throughout the District ;
Grazing grounds:, or rich upland pastures,'
T^hich were remarked, more particular!}*,
about Ermington, Aunton, and Kingsbridge \
and., most especiallr, about Totness ; and
Pasture grounds, or the ordinary- tempo-
rarv' leys of the Danmonian husbandrs'.
tn the MAXAGEMEN'T of Grass lands, ^
perceived nothing which gave me reason to'
apprehend, that it diiters from that of West
DEyOXSHIRE.
ORCHARDS, &c. This is the principal
fruit-liquor District of Devonshire. Bnt. as
I had SO favorable an opportunity of making
myself master of the Devonshire practice, in
the place of my residence*, I had the less
occasion to attend to it, in the South Hams:
whose practice, from what IsaTV" of it, is the'
same as that of West Devonshire ; exceptin
the greater attention which fs paid, in the
former, to the process of fermentation. Bnt
the Herefordshire practice being still far su*
per?6f, in ^s respect, to that of South De-
■^onshire ; and having already given an ample,
*'»^- - -^^^^Ott, pare ^^J^"-^''"' '
SOUTH HAMS. 291
and, I believe, an accurate detail of that
practice, it is the less necessary to resume the
subject, here.
In the proportionate quantity of orchard
GROUNDS, the South Hams, in like manner>
resemble the West of Devonshire. A
stranger, in riding across the country, would
not suspect it to be a fruit-liquor District.
No such extensive plots of orchard ground,
as meet the eye in travelling through Here-
fordshire, &c. and in some parts of Kent, are
seen in South Devonshire. Nevertheless, the
farms being small, and each having its Or-
chard, the aggregate quantity is considerable.
The trees being low, and confined chiefly to
the vallies, and perhaps overtopped by tall
hedgerows, account for the little show they
occasion.
A minutia of practice in the disposal of
APPLES, for household purposes, may not be
too trivial to notice. In the ordinary practice
of the kingdom, they are sold by measure :
but, here, not unfrequently by number: a
shilling a hundred being esteemed a moderate
price.
CATTLE. The breed is that of Devon-
shire : excepting a few, in the hands of in-
u 2 dividuals,
292 AGRICULTURE.
dividuals, of the short -horned breed. See
MiNNUTE 5.
The South Haras are not emphatically a
BREEDING DistHct. Com, rather than Cattle,
appears, to a stranger passing through the
Country, to be the principal object of the
Farmers of the South Hams. Many of the
workmg Oxen, that are seen in this District,
are, no doubt, purchased of the Moorside
Farmers. See page 240.
SHEEP. I observed some considerable
docks, on the West side of the District ; and
smaller parcels on the East.
The BREED varies as to head. On the East
side of the District, particularly about Tot-
ness, I observed a thick carcassed, long-
wooled kind ; uniformly polled, and with
mottled or grey faces. Sec page 2 J 3.
SOUTH DEVONSHIRE. 293
RETROSPECTIVE VIEW
OF THE RURAL ECONOMY of
SOUTH DErONSHIRE.
In taking the foregoing View of the South
Hams and their Rural Management, some re-
flections have arisen, which it might be wrong
to suppress.
Vie\^dng the state of husbandrj* , in the ag-
gregate, and including the modern improve-
ments of individuals, it approaches nearly to
the medium of that of the kingdom at large.
The permanent grass lands appear to be most-
ly well kept, and are many of them partially
watered. The lands subjected to aration are
not strikingly foul ; nor do they appear, sit-
perfidally, to be greatly in want of tillage.
Nevertheless, one who has been accus-
tomed to the more fertile parts of Norfolk,
of the Midland Counties, and of other fertile
and well cultivated Districts, — and to ob-
u 3 sen^e.
294 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF
sen^e, in the autumnal months, the plenty
which evei^^w'here presents itself, — the spa-
cious barn, and well stored rick yard, with
herds and flocks seen in every direction, — is
stnick with the apparent deficiency of pro-
duce, whether of corn or of cattle, in travel-
ling over the South Haras, at the same season.
This apparent deficiency is, no doubt, in
a considerable degree, owing to the smallness
of the farms, and to the farmsteads being
much secluded in the vallies. But similar
appearances are obser\-able, in the fairs and
markets of the District. And I am of opi-
nion, that its produce, at present, is far from
being adequate to its natural advantages.
Viewing the District of the Souxij Hams,
and its pkesent state of husba^ndry, in the
detail; a few modem improvements, — chielly
perhaps of individuals, — only excepted ; they
perfectly agree w ith those of ^^'EST Devon-
shire. In soiE, SURFACE, and established
PRACTICE, they may well be considered as the
SAME District; and the following remarks
are applicable to the whole of the inclosed
lands of
SOUTH ANP WEST DEVONSHIRE.
IT may be right to premise, that notwith-
standing the apparent deficiency, in respect
|o produce^ jthe Jands of this (jy^rter of De?
Yonshire pa.j, a rent, equajl tp. what would be
.esteemed their fair value, in better cultiyatecf
Districts. Xliis seeminn; contradiction is to
» • 1 ( ■ CD ! . • T
^p, rec.oueiied, b^* ttfe circumstance of the
Danmonian practice having few high.- fed
hjOrsesito support ;— by thelowness of wages,
and by the frugality of living, , among work-
ing farmers, J --rby a ready market, and mucb
.water carriage ;-^7-and, still more, by the far
,v9rable .cii'cumstance of lira^e being freely
.}f\^^, on a soil that is not yet -saturated with
^J^^ calcareous principle.
., , ^\mong the numerous IMPROVEMENTS,
jof which this Division of the AV^est of Engr
J4nd. is susceptible, the following have oc--
^curred to me^ in taking a retrospective view of
^tlie foregoing registers of its present practice,
^lany of them ai*e noticed in these D|igests.
.Nevertheless, I think it right to bring the
AvJiole together, here ; for the greater ease of
those who may be disposed to promote the
p'osperity of this favored part of the Island.
In the roRM of farm yards much is to be
done; especially in providing, proper recep-
tacles for manure ; to prevent its most valu-
able parts from being dissipated. In some
few cases, I have seen the water, from dung
u 4 yards.
•X.-v-
156 retrospectt\t: view of
yards,' led cs-er grass lands. But unless a
reser^'oir be formed, to collect such waiter, in
order to throw it over the land, in a large
body, its etFects are verv confined and incon-
siderable. For hints on this subject, see
MlXTTE 40.
In the MAXAGEMLXT OF HEDGES, I am of
opinion much improvement may be made,
by pruning the sides, so as to prevent their
drip and shade from destroying the under
growth of the mounds, and the crops on
either side of them ; as well as to promote
the upward tendency and strength of the
•wood, which grows on the tops of the
mounds ; whose extent, being limited, can
only throw out a certain quantity- of produce;
and it is but reasonable to conclude, that so
much of the nourishment, as is suffered to
be expended on the spreading outside boughs,
is lo«t to the more useful stems, which rise
upon the top. See Minutes 12, and 15, on
this subject.
A proper form of a lease, for a term of
years, appears to be much wanted ; such a
form as will encourage improvements, and
give encreasing value to estates : — instead of
that which is at present in use. See page 82,
ilso p. 87.
SOUTH DEVONSHIRE. 29J
• In the application of lands to their fittest
uses, something remains to be done. There
are many sites which would pay for plant-
ing, and some, which are now in a state of
woodland, that would pay for clearing. See
page b'^ , also Mm. 35.
The USE OF WHEEL CARRIAGES may be
profitably extended to many of the farms,
both of the South Hams, and of the more
Western District.
The ordinary plow of these Districts is
susceptible of very essential improvement:
and the turn wrest plow would be found
highly useful, in cultivating the steeper lands
of this broken hilly country.
But the greatest improvement, which these
Districts appear to be capable of receiving,
lies in the SUCCESSION of arable crops. The
present practice of taking three corn crops in
immediate succession, as well as the paucity
of tillage which the land receives for these
three crops, (and even perhaps the ineffective
form of the plow!) doubtless arose from the
ditficulty which was experienced, at the time
this practice was established, in the RE-
NEWAL OF THE SWARD, after fallows,
pulse crops, or more efficient tillage. Even
the practice of drawing the weeds of Turneps,
instead
^ RETftOS«:CniVE VIEW OF
j9^^d.of cutting the ground over with the
hfiif^, i.tnay ha^ e oiiginated in the same exp€>-
nence. . ^j^ bivow rijixfy/ ^m
But now*, that the art ai CULTIVA^
IJbNC^ SWARD is knowo, and practised,
such a mode of procedure is become inipro-
j)er: lor the.cl^^er the soil, and the finer
^e tillage, Vbith the more certainty and effect
iceay. sward be. cyltiyated.
In the Midland District, where the soil is
retentive ot moisture, and where the Turnep
crop, and breeding flocks ox sheep, ate less
lehgible, than they are, on ,the absorbent soils
of Devonshire, there is a better plea for per-
severing in a similar practice. See ^f idlaxp
Counties, Sect. Cultivated Herbage; and
the Minute thence ret'erred to; where the
reader may fiud this interesting subject di5-
cussed.
In the Mj^'AGEMEXT OF T»E SOIL, ver}'
much requires to be done. The first step i^
•10 clear it from obstructions of the plow:;
and the next to rescue it from the dominion
of weeds, to which much of it may well be
said to be, at present, subject ; and some of
it to a redujodancy of ^\ ater. In other words,
it requires to be WHOLLY RECLAIMLD
from a state of nature and neglect.
'<f SOUTH DEVONSHIRE. 299
This reclaim is to be effected, by FREE
CLEAN FALLOWS; or FALLOV*^ CROPS,
whether of roots, herbage, or pul,se ; ac-
cording to the circumstances of the respec-
tive lands, ^nd the state of foulness in which
they are found.
Another obvious improvement, in the soil
process, is that of driving TVi-'o oxen, with
WHIP REINS, in all the hghter works of til-
lage ; carrying a width of plit or plowslicc,
in proportion to the state of the soil, and
the Strength of the animals. See jNIin. 30-
An evident and great improvement, in the
FARMYARD MANAGEMENT, is that of bottom-
ing the dung yard with mold : a practice by
which a rich source of manure, for grass land,
is obtained, without loss of dung to the
arable crops : or, if the mold be mixed up
with the dung, in the spring, a most valu-
able compost is formed, fit, in the course of
the year, for any purpose of Agriculture;
and this at the trifling cost of collecting the
materials; which may frequently be done,
by means of back carriage ; and always at
leisure times.
It is at leaet an object of experiment, in
this uncertain climature, to try theetfects or
EARLY SOWING, Oil clcan reclaimed land.
The
3<:« RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF
" The present method of setting ctp Wheat,
on the stubble, in this country, is very ineli-
pble, compared with that of the North of
England. See page l 70.
In the HARVESTING OF BARLEY AND OATS,
especially in a vet and backward season, the
practice of the Northern Provinces would, I
am of opinif>n, be found very advantageous.
See page l 74.
The WINNOWING MILL, and the proper
method of using it, require to be introduced.
The TURNEP CROP of this country is, at
present, discreditable to English Agriculture.
The practice of East Norfolk is, perhaps, the
best which this District could eventually
adopt. For a minute detail of that practice,
see the Rural Economy of Norfolk: but
see also page 193, aforegoing.
In the MANAGEMENT OF LEY GROUNDS,
something is evidently requisite to be done :
many of them, at present, are shamet'ully
unproductive. If the Norfolk plan of ma-
nagement were wholly adopted, and the du-
ration of the leys confined to one whole year,
sowing them with Wheat the second, they
might with strict propriety be mown for hay»
the first \c:\r. But should thev be continued,
as at present, in pasture grounds, during five.
SOUTH DEVONSHIRE. 301
six, or seven years; every effort should be
made, to prevent so ruinous an operation
from being necessary; or, if it cannot be
wholly prevented, its injury should be ren-
dered as light as possible, by mowing early,
before the taller herbage has had time to
destroy the undergrowth, and injure its ow^
roots.
The quantity of watered grass land may
doubtless be much encreased ; and the pre-
sent practice of watering be very much im-
proved.
Some considerable portion of the present
orchard grounds, it is very probable, may
be converted, profitably, into watered mow-
ing grounds. And many unproductive sites
be converted, with still greater profit, to
Orchard grounds. See page 212.
In the treatment of the present Orchards,
one improvement is most obvious ; namely,
that of training up the trees, in such a man-
ner, that yearling cattle may pasture among
them, during summer ; and Swine, the year
through ; except during the gathering sea-(
son. In the pruning and cleaning of Orchard
trees, there is likewise full scope for improve-
ment.
To the manufacturing of cider, the
Devonshire
301 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF
Devonshire Orchardmen might bend their
attention with profit, by turning their pro-
duce to the best advantage. Their soil, an4
their climature, especially in a moderately
dry summer, are more friendly to the apple>
than are those of" Herefordshire or Glocester-
shire. And, were the arts of manufacture
as well understood, here, as in the Mayhill
District, I am of opinion, that the cider of
Devonshire would outrival that of Hereford-
shire, at the London market*. However,
while cider remains a mere article of beve-
rage, there is less encouragement to excel-
lency of manufacture, than there would be»
were it fasliionable, as a substitute for wine.
The South Devonshire Husbandmen, how-
ever, have an object of improvement Iving
open before them, which w ill repay them,
ten fold, for their attention, compared .with
any advantage that can arise from their Or-
chard grounds, or their fermenting rooms.
This important object of their attention is the
BREEDING of LIVESTOCK; whctlicr Cattle,
Sheep, or Swine.
I am of opinion, that the rental value of
the lands, of this part of the County, may
* For a niinr.le detail of ihe Herefordshire practicf,
see the Rural Economy of Glocestershire.
SOUTH DEVONSHIRE. 303
be encreased, exceedingly, by a due atten-
tion to the improvement of these three species
of domestic animals, only. And seeing the
facility with which it may be effected, — since
there are superior breeds, of cattle and sheep
at least, within the limits of the County,—
there remains no cblor pf eiciise for delaying
so valuable an improvement.
Finally, I will beg leave to suggest, in
addition to the hints which are here consi-
derately offered, that if the Gentlemen of
this Country, who have lately formed them-
selves into a Society, for the purpose of pro-
moting its Agriculture, will assist the pro-
fessional part of their Countrymen, in the
establishment of substa^^tial practices,
their country, for ages to come, may have'
cause of gratitude for their patriotic exertions.
DISTRICT
DISTRICT THE THIRD.
THE
MOUNTAINS
OF
CORNWALL AND DEVONSHIRE.
Prefatory Remarks.
Li.'C
The materials which I collected, re-
specting these Mountain Tracts, were obtained
in different ways.
What relates to CORNWALL, I gathered
in an EXCURSION ; undertaken for the pur-
pose of gaining some general ideas, relating
to this remote part of the Island.
But, with respect to DARTMORE, and
its uncultivated Environs, the information I
am possessed of arose, INCIDENTALLY ;
without any premeditated plan of surs'ey.
Indeed, these wild uncultivated lands resem-
ble, so much, the mountainous parts of Scot-
land, and the North of England, on which
MOUNTAIN DISTRICT. 305
tlie broad lines of nature remain unoblite-
rated, that a minute examination was the
less required, by ofie who has been accus-
tomed to read her works ; and whose only
desire, in this instance, was to extract a few
leadinsr facts *.
'to
^f y sources of information being thus dis-
tinct, I will preserve the materials separate,
and, first offer a Transcript of my Cornish
Journal, as it was hastily formed, at' thd
time of making the Excursion (in August
i/yi) ' whether it relate to the Mountaixs
or the Lowlands of Cornwall.
•AN
• 1804. Since the first publication of these volumes,
I have repeatedly crossed the forest of Dartmore ; and in
different directions. In one of my journies I noted what
rose to the eye, in travelHng. The sketch will appear in
No. 45 of the following Minutks.
VOL. I.
AN
EXCURSION
IN
CORNWALL.
This Excursion was made, on horseback,
by Callington and Leskard, to Bodmin ;
and back by Lauxceston and Tavistock.
BUCREAND to BODMIN.
23d August i;qi.
The ELEVATION of the Country, in this
cide, is higli : the road leads, most of the
way, along the skirts ot the Hills, between
the Mountains and the broken cultivated
Country towards the Sea ; and, in passing
between Leskard and Bodmin, it crosses over
the chain of Mountains which run through
this Peninsula ; but not in an elevated part.
Some ver}' high hills are seen to the North
of the road : — Ilinksdon, a depressed Cone,
with a Prospect Place on the top, is seen at
•1
CORNWALL. 307
great distances. Many ragged Tors, of the
true mountain cast, are obsened in this ride.
Climature. On the hangs of the Moun-
tains, corn is still green ; but in the lower
lands, harvest is now' at its height : — more
than half cut, and some carried.
The SURFACE is exceedingly broken, into
sharp ridges, and deep, steepsided rallies;
especially on the lower declivities of the ge-
neral range of hills ; as between Callington
and Leskard. On the upper parts, as between
Leskard and Bodmin, the swells are more
rounded, and the Tallies wider and less steep.
The SOIL is very various, as to quality ;
but even the tops of the low er mountains are
far from barren ; supporting numerous herds
of cattle, as well as many sheep : — much
more productive of grass, than the heaths of
Yorkshire; tho every part produces more or
less heath. Between St. Ive and Leskard,
and below this toward the Sea, is a tract of
charming land : five or six quarters of barlev,
an acre, are now hanesting *. The species
«f
* There are, I understand, other tracts, on the more
Western Coast of Cornwall^ of equal or superior fertilltv
to the tract above mentioned : particularly towards the
two extreme points, — the Lizard, and the Landsand.
X 2
5o8 EXCURSION IN
of soil appears to be the same as that of West
Devonshire.
The SUBSOIL is also similar : — namely, a
slatey rock, and a kind of rusty rotten slate,
or rubble.
Rivers. Several large Brooks pass from
the Mountains, southward, to the Sea.
Navigation. None of the Estuaries stretch
iTp so high as this road. That of l/ooe reaches
within a few miles of I^cskard.
The ROADS are of stone, and in some parts
extremely well kept, llie gates few, and
the tolls moderate. Toll Roads are now
tbrmed between most or all of the market
towns. The Roads of Corn \\ all were, for-
merly, very rough and dangerous ; especially
across the open heaths, among the Mines !
Yet, at the rirst Introduction of toll Roads, in
this country, obstinate riots took place.
Mines. Some, but not many, in this ride.
Ihey are now, I understand, chiefly con-
Ihied to the Western parts of the County.
The MAMFACTrKE of the District, I be-
lieve, is principally Woollen Yarn, for the
Devonshire Sergemakers and Clotliiers.
The TowNsiiii's appear to be large, — with
nunicrous Hamlets.
The I'RODCCE, of the Inclosurcs, is mostly
CORNWALL. 309
Corn, The Heaths support the cattle in sum-
mer, and great part ot the winter months.
The principal requisite consequently is Straw,
to feed them with in the depth of winter.
Some Meadofi's appear in the bottoms ; but
little inclosed upland grass is seen : and but
very little iroocUand ; except in the Dingles,
at the heads of the vallies, next the heaths.
Inclosures. The Mountains and their
skirts are open : — the lower lands all in-
closed. The FIELDS are well sized, and well
formed.
Fences. The banks thinner and lower,
than in AVest Devonshire ; but of the same
form.
The Buildings are mostly of Stone and
Slate : some " Cob" — or Mud wall.
Crops. Wheat and Barley, with some
Oats and Turneps (unhoed), with a little
Clover and upland Ley. But not a Bean nor
a Pea (unless harvested), in this ride.
The Cattle are of the West of England
breed : bred and kept on the heaths, in great
numbers, from yearlings to aged Oxen :
working these, occasionally, from the heath!
The Sheep of the heaths are tall, and ill
formed : some polled, some horned : yet.
apparently, all of the same old stock : the
x 3 Ewes
310 EXCURSION IN
Ewes are now at rut : the Rams are mostly
large-horned, like those of the Dorsetshire
breed.
Beasts of labor. Some Oxen and Horses
in carriages. But Pack Horses seem still to
be much in use.
Implements. A singular kind of two-
wheel carnage, for Horses or Oxen, is here
in common use ; especially, I beUeve, to
carry harvest produce upon. It is called a
** WAIN ;" and is a hay cart, or wain, with-
out sides : having only two arches bending
over the wheels, to keep the load fiom bear-
ing upon them ! with a wince, behind, to
tighten the rope. How simple ; and, being
low, how easily loaded ! I met two on the
road, laden with wool ; each, with two oxen
at the pole, and two horses before them. "
Manure. Lime and Beat ashes are uni-
versal. A considerable portion of the coun-
try is now set with roof heaps of Lune, and
with veiled Beat, now burning. A great
quantity of earth, I see, is burnt. All, no
doubt, for Wheat. Theorists I find are,
here, against burning the soil; but Farmers,
in general, I understand, are for it.
The TILLAGE is apparently better, here,
than in Devonshire. About Lcskard, the
CORNWALL. 511
land appears to be in a good state 6f culti-
vation.
Orchards evidently diminish, as the dis-
tance encreases, Westward.
Woodlands. — ^Very few: some distant Oak
coppice. Peeling on the stub extends into
Cornwall.
Ornament. The views are frequently pic-
turable : but they cloy, through a frequency!
of repetition, and a degree of sameness.
- Harvesting. Busy " handreaping :" saw,
several women ^t work. Make shucks of ten
sheaves : nine in a square, and one as a hood,
as in Devonshire. But, unless the straw be
long, and the hood sheaf be made large and
straight, the covering is evidently incomplete.
Mow chiefly with bows ; but cradles, I see,
are to be sold. About Bodmin, the Wheat
in general seems to be made into " arrisli
vioius,'' or field stacklets, of about a load
each.
Furze. There are two distinct species,
or varieties, now in full blow. The lower
skirts of the uncultivated hills are gilded with
them. One of them is the creeping sort,
which is common to the Southern Counties ;
the other is called the " French Furze ;" and
X 4 Tavistock,
312 EXCURSION IN
Tavistock, I understand, has long been a
market f^*- Furze seed*.
The GENERAL STATE OF HUSBANDRY, in
some parts of this ride, is above meJiorrity ;
except in the culture of Turneps. Bctueen
St. Ive and Leskard, is a passage of as well
cultivated land, as most in the kingdom.
Towns. Caliirfgfon is a small market
to\^"n ; and a borough. he>fkard is a large,
populous, decent-looking place, and would
appear respectable in any part of the King-
dom. It is likewise a borough. Bodmin, tho
one of the County towns, is much inferior,
in size and respectability. This, too, is a
borough.
BODMIN TO BUCKLAND.
iMth August.
The ELEVATION of the Country is very
great, between Bodmin and Five-Lanes, over
Bodmin Down, and Temple Moor. Some
very high p<»ints of view are reached. Saw
the chtf and the estuary of Padstow. In a
clear day, both seas are observable (near
• Which is sold in I^ndon, under ihe name of
'* French Furze Seed !" S«.e Pkovincialism, French
NCT.
CORNWALL. 313
Fowey and Padstow). Some remarkable mg-
jred mountains are seen towards the North
coast : " Roo Tor" and " Brown Willv" be-
ing spoken of as the largest. Passed " Dos-
mary Pool," a small lakelet, about a mile in
circumference, upon the higher part of these
heaths ; and crossed a quaking bog ; which
has formerly, no doubt, been a lake. From
the elevations surmounted in this ride, and
from the top of the castle of Launceston, per-
haps half of Cornwall, and a very large por-
tion of Devonshire, are seen over : the whole
a stronglv featured country.
Climature. Some AVheat upon the hills
is still quite green. The hardest, in this
elevated situation, is in general very late ; —
sometimes, being prolonged, till after Mi-
chaelmas *.
Surface. About ten miles of the upper
part of the heaths, over which this road
passes, is tamely billowy ; the swells resem-
bling those of the Downs of the Southern
Counties ; with lofty mountains on each
hand ; a charming ride, — in Jine iceathcr.
The remaining ten miles, to Launceston, and
from thence to Buckland, is the same abruptly
broken
♦ The inforauiion of an intelligent fellow-traveller.
314 EXCURSION IK
broken country, which prevails throughout
the more cultivated parts of the two G^unties.
The SOIL towards Bodmin is of a mean
quality ; nevertheless, the Downs and Moors
are thickly stocked \\ ith Cattle and Sheep ;
especiallv with the forniCr : saw on one of
the higher knolls, some hundreds in a herd!
douutlessly, to enjoy the coolness of the situ-
ation.
Launceston is situated among well soiled,
but steep hills. At Milton Abbot y is a plot of
the finest grass land in the Kingdom ! Graz-
ing ground of a very superior quahty. The
^lidiand Counties cannot shew better. Also
about Lamerton, and Tavistock, are some
good grazing lands.
Mines. There is no " mine'' within sight
of this ride. But twa or three considerable
" stream works' ' are seen: one of vihich I
stopt to look into. In a stream work, there
is no *' lode" or body of ore; the tin being
lodged in small particles or fragments, among
the earth (at two or three to t\\ enty or thirty
leet deep) which is washed by a rill or stream,
conveyed, by art, to the required spot * ; the
* Query, Have stream works given rise to ** leats,"
or made Sucams, in this Cov.ntrv ' Are thev of Roman,
cr of British, ongin ?
CORNWALL. 315
metal and stones remaining ; while the soil
is carried away with the stream : thus anni-
hilating the land, in the most complete man-
ner ingenuity could devise.
Rivers. The Tamer and the Tavey : also
the heads of some of the Southern rivers.
The ROAD in general is good. For a con-
siderable way, the stones are covered with a
kind of rough sand, or small gravel, appa-
rently, the loose materials of which granite
is composed ; making an admirable road.
Inclosure. — The moors are open : except
some small inclosures, about Temple, &c.
Cultivated lands are ever}- where inclosed.
Produce — as before.
Manufacture. — Yarn.
Buildings. — Stone- and Slate. At Laun-
ceston the houses are mostly faced with
Slates : some of them three or four feet square.
The Church is of Moorstone, deeply and
richly sculptured I substantial, and beauti-
ful, as a Gothic building: the labor must
have been immensely great ; seeing the hard-
ness of the material — a shining granite.
Fields — as before.
Fences increase in bulk, toward Devon-
shire ; swelhng to their fiiUest magnitude, at
Buckland Place.
Crops
3iS EXCURSION IN
Crops — as hefore ; excepting the grazing
grounds of Milton and Tavistock.
Cattle. The Moor stock arc of the West
of England breed : saw some oxen which
would fat to hixty or seventy stones (of I4lb.)
on these heathy mountains ! — all in very
HOod store condition.
Sheep. The same tall, aukward sort, as
about Bodmin.
Goats. Saw several browzing on furze»
I was told that numbers are kept in Com-
■wall, for milking ; some herds consisting of
a hundred head ; and that Goats' and Kids'
iksh are not uncommon in the Cornish mar-
kets.
Beasts of labor — as above.
3I.\>"URE. Beat ashes, and *' sea sand ;" a
fine shell warl ; which is brought in great
cjoantities from the North coast, by the Pad-
sJow river, to within three miles of Bodmin ;
and carried^ by land, many miles.
Tillage — as before.
Harvesting — the same.
State of htsbandrv, — much the same:
—somewhat inferior.
OpxHARDS increase, toward Devonshire.
Woodlands. Obsened few, in Comwallj
except on the banks of the Tamer.
CORNWALL. 317
Orname^jt. The mountain views are ex-
tensive and grand : those from the lower
points are frequently picturesque.
Towns. Temple^ a deserted village!
the only one I have any where seen. Some
years ago, not a single person lived in the
township ! (a Curacy appendant to Blisland ;)
and only one little farm iiouse is now inha-
bited : — the ruins of half a dozen more ; the
body of the Church down ; the Chancel re-
mains. Goldsmith, surely, must have tra-
velled this road !
Launceston * — provincially and universally,
throughout the country, " LaansoUy' or
" Lidiuiston,'' is a well looking place ; but
aukwardly situated ; on the brink and side of
a very steep hill ! The street leading to New-
port is as steep, almost, as the roof of a house.
The
* 1803. AuGDST. Callinoton to Launceston.
A truly Danmonian passage. The whole Hue (the West-
ern foot of Hiuksdoii excepted j is an hiclosed cultivated
country ; similar to tliat of West Devonshire. The same
style of country spreading several miles, westward, from
the banks of the Tamer; and corrcs|)onding with the
lower banks of that river, towards the Sea : the valley of
the Tamer, on the Cornis^h side, being interrupted by the
Hinksdon mountain; which is separated from the more
central mountains of Cornwall, by a valley or broad line
of cultivated lands.
3i8 EXCURSION IN
The castle, which has been a very strong
fortress, commands some charming views,
Newport a paltr}' borough : — a mean-looking
hamlet ; belonging to the parish of St. Ste-
phen's ; a tillage which stands opposite to
Launceston. Mylton Abbot a charming situ-
ation. Tavistock is also well situated ; and
was heretofore celebrated for its abbotry !
Geneil^l observations. I am agreeably
disappointed with respect to Cornwall. From
what I had seen on the banks of the Tamer *,
I expected to have found, as I went farther
Westward, a wretched country, wretched
roads, wretched towns, wretched accommo-
dations, and wretched inhabitants. On the
contrar}-, the country, whether in point of
soil or cultivation, — except the higher moun-
tains, and they are good in their kind, — is
above mediocrity. The roads, their unlevel-
ness apart, are among the best in the king-
dom. The towns, substantial and neat. The
accommodations, equal to any thing met with,
out of the great roads, llie inhabitants, in-
telligent, civil, are said to be extremely hos-
pitable, are atFable, clean in their appearance,
and many of the men handsome in their per-
• See No. 3 of the following Minutes.
CORNWALL. 319
sons. What most disgusts a stranger, in
travelling through Cornwall, is the inordinate
number of its boroughs; and this impropriety
lies not with the people of Cornwall. There
are none indeed more sensible of it, than the
inhabitants themselves.
DARTMORE,
DARTMORE,
AND ITS
UNCULTWATED EXFIRONS.
1 HE Incidents, \\ hich led me to a knowledge
of this Diiitrict, are various. I had repeated
occasions to traverse the Western skirts of
Dartmore. I purposely ascended the South-
ern HEIGHTS, to view the striking features
which that side of it exhibits, and to catch a
bird's view of the District of the South Hams.
I crossed the summit, in travelling between
Morton and Buckland. And I skirted the
Northwestern margin, in passing be-
tween Tavistock and Okcliampton. I have,
therefore, had opportunities of seeing almost
every square mile of its surface, and oi ob-
serving its natural characters, in ditferent and
distant parts.
The SITUATION— of this uncultivated
tract of country, is towards the Western side
of Devonshire ; being, in part, separated from
DARTMORE. 321
the Cornish mountains, by the cultivated
banks of the Tamer : but, to the North of
Tavistock, the skirts of Dartmore, and those
of Hinksdon, may be said to unite : for altho
they are strewed with plots of cultivated
lands, there is no regular line of separation ;
and the same mixed country spreads wide,
tow^ard the North, between Launceston and
Okehampton. On the South, lies the fertile
District of the South Hams : — and a continu-
ation of the Chudleigh or Hall Down Hills,
broken in a most striking manner, separates
it on the East, from the vale of Exeter.
The EXTENT of these wild lands is not
easy to estimate ; there being no determinate
line, on the Northwest quarter. A circle
of twenty miles diameter would, perhaps,
comprize the whole extent of the open lands,
in this part of Devonshire ; exclusively of the
inclosed lands, which lie intermixed among
them. Admitting this supposition to be suf-
ficiently near the truth, to give a general idea
of the extent of those open lands, we may
say that they cover more than three hundred
square miles of surface, — include about two
hundred thousand acres.
In ELEVATION above the sea, these
lands are greatly varied. The extended sum-
voL. I Y ' mit
322 DISTRICT.
mit of the main body of the mountain is
raised, in a singular manner, above the sur-
rounding country' ; cspeciallv on the South
side. Looking down, even from the mid-
\ray stages, upon the South Hams, an upland
District, the comparative elevation is so great,
as to render the idea of ditficulty, in travel-
ling across the latter, ridiculous. (See p. 271.)
Nevertheless, the sea washing, in a manner,
the foot of the mountain, its positive height
is inconsiderable, compared with that of
many less mountain- like masses, which oc-
cur in the more central parts of the Island,
On the North side, the stages are lengthened,
and the general descent is much less abrupt.
The outskirts, round Brent Tor, and towards
T^unceston, fonn an extended flat, mean in
elevation, compared with the towering
heights, which overlook it on either side *.
• The coulcal hillock of Bkent Tor, pointed wiih
rugged rocks, and sumiounted by a Church ! rises in the
center of this wide flat. From the grounds of Buckland,
this hillock assumes the character of a mountain height
i)f considtrabk magnitude ; and, in navigating the Sound
oP Plyn)outh, it is u^ed a» a landmark, at more than
twenty miles distance : yet, in reality, it is but an incon-
siderable hillock. A proof of the extraordinary levehiess
of rtiis passage of countr\*. '
L-\UNCtsTo.v Castle, crowning a higher, but mofe
•rotund eminence, is another striking feature of the >an:e
broad face of unreclaimed nature.
\
DARTMORE. 323
The SURFACE of Dartmore proper is
truly mountainous. The composition is grand;
the lines in general lengthened, and the fea-
tures large : not abrupt and broken, like the
minor hills of Devonshire. Nevertheless, the
summits of several of the higher sw^ells of
Dartmore are truly savage, and rendered
finely picturesque, by reason of immense piles
of stones, or huge fragments of rock, thrown
confusedly together, in the most grotesque
manner: sometimes crowning the knolls,
but oftener hanging on their brows ; espe-
cially on its Western front : while the preci-
pitous surface of the Southern hills takes a
more smooth and polished form ; being fre-
quently molded into beautiful bosoms ; pro-
minently rising into globular swells, with
ample w^ell turned vallies between them.
In some parts, the surface is thickly strew-
ed with stones ; which, in many instances,
appear to have been collected into piles, on
the tops of prominent hillocks ; as if in imi-
tation of the natural Tors. — The " stone hur^
rotvs,*' of Dartmore, resemble the cairns, of
the Cheviot and Grampian hills ; and are,
perhaps, equally of Celtic origin *.
The
* These artificial piles of stones I have more particu-
T2
324 DISTRICT.
The WATERS of this tract of mountain
are merely the torrents, which pour down
its furrowed sides, in every direction. The
Dart is the most considerable stream that
owes its support to these hills.
The SOILS of those unreclaimed lands are
greatly above the par of mountain soil:;, in
the Island at large. They are superior to
those of the Highlands of Scotland, and very
superior to those of the North of England.
Some of the higher swells, it is true, are
covered with black moory earth ; and in
the vallies between them, peat bogs are fre-
quent, and dangerous ; not only to strangers
who travel the cross roads, but to pasturing
stock. And, in many parts, the soil is much
encumbered with stones ; which, in some,
occupy, perhaps, half the surface. Never-
theless, there are extensive tracts, even of
the upper grounds, that enjoy a loamy soil,
nearly free from stones, and of a sufficient
depth for cultivation : wanting nothing but
a genial climaturc, and a proper supply of
manure, to render them valuable, as arable
lands. And soils of still better quality are
observable, on some of the marginal Com-
larly observed on the hangs, and summits, of the South-
rrn hills of Darlmore.
DARTMORE. 325
mons ; tho, on others, thofie of inferior va-
lue mav be found.
The SUBSOILS are equally various. I
have observed, in a few instances, a stoney
rubble, or foul yellow gravel, resembling
that of the Yorkshire mountains ; also a fri-
able, BROWN RUBBLE ; and, even on the
higher hills, loam, of a sufficient depth for
every purpose of land.
The PRESENT PRODUCTION of Dart-
more and its uncultivated environs mav, with
some little licence, be said to be herbage !
-—greensward ! even of the highest bleakest
hills; more or less intermixed, however,
with heath ; which, indeed, chiefly occu-
pies some of the worst-soiled parts of the
mountain ; while on the lower grounds, the
FURZE, particularly the trailing kind, is pre-
valent. There is little if any wood, I be-
lieve, on the unappropriated parts of this
tract of country : the fuel, used by the bor-
dering inhabitants, being the produce of the
peat bogs, and the black moory soils ; as in
other mountainous Districts *. The
* Some of the peat is of a superior quality ; admitting
of being charred; and in this state, is used by Black-
smiths, instead ofpit coal.
1804. On the Southern skirts of Dartmore, tliis prac-
T3
326 DISTRICT.
The APPLICATION of the pasturable
produce, which this uncultivated wild at
present throws out, is to cattle, sheep, and
HORSES, — and some few rabbits.
The RIGHT of DEPASTURING belongs
to different interests. A considerable part of
the mountain is forest la>d, subject to the
superiority of the Duchy of Cornwall.
The outskirts, and parts of the hills, are ap-
pendant to the manors of the subjoining
country ; the right of pasturage being vested
in the appropriated lands of those manors.
And beside this intrinsic right, over their re-
spective commons, many of these lands, as
well as others in the vicinity of the moor,
have a prescriptive right, on the forest, by
paying an inconsiderable sum — a few pence
— annually, under the name of VenvU money,
to the Duchy *. The Duchy, nevertheless,
tice is now on the decline, or is nearly extinct : owing
probably to the supply of coals having of late years been
more ample, on that side, than it was formerly. But,
on the Norihcrii borders, towards Okehampton, the
practice, I am well informed, &till prevails.
* Venvil. This word evidently appears (from a ma-
nuscript setting forth the rights of the parish of Mavcy)
to be a contraction of ten and vieid; the provincial pro-
nunciations of fen zndjidd: the said prescriptive right
being claimed over the fen, or boggy ground of the
forest, or chace, for fuel, and over the hills, or open
field, for PASTLr»AGE.
DARTMORE. 327
presenTS the right of stocking the forest
lands, by agistment : and stock are sent, in
numbers, from distant townships ; pa3dng a
very low price for tlieir pasturage : not more
than a shilling, eighteen pence, or two sliil-
lings, a head, being paid for the summer's run
of cattle !
Beside the CATTLE thus brought toge-
ther, by agistment, great numbers are reared,
by the Venvil tenants, on the verge of the
forest ; under a routine of practice that has
been mentioned. See p. 238.
The SHEEP, being drawn together, from
various quarters, differ as to breed. On the
Southern parts of the mountain, the polled
breed of the South Hams is mostly seen.
But, on the Northern and Western sides of
it, the partially horned breed, which has
been noticed, is prevalent ; corresponding,
in general appearance, with the estabhshed
breed of the Cornish mountains; — but of a
better frame. In winter, those sheep are
drawn down to the inclosed country ; where
the ewes drop their lambs ; returning ^^'ith
them, in the spring, to their mountain
pasture.
Hence, the leading OBJECT of the MOOR-
SIDE FARMER is to raise fodder enough
Y 4 for
3s8 DISTRICT.
for his cattle, and to preserve grass enough
for his sheep, to supply them, during the
winter months ; depending, almost wholly,
on the commonable lands, for their summer
maintenance ; his milking cows and rearing
calves excepted. Working oxen are, every-
where, seen on the commonable lands, both
of Devonshire and Cornwall : their work,
uader this treatment, being of course mo-
derate *,
The PRESENT VALUE of these lands
appears, from this general view of their appli-
cation, to be far from inconsiderable. I had
not an opportunity of estimating the aggre-
gate of the stock they support. But an eye,
accustomed to observations of this nature,
mav readily discover, that, in a political
LIGHT, these uncultivated lands are, at pre-
sent, of some estimation. For admitting that
a Moocside Farmer, by the assistance of these
lands, in supporting his stock eight or nine
months of the year, is enabled to rear, and
forward to market, twice the number of
cattle and sheep (or even one fourth of such
* Store Cattle are foddered with straw (generally in the
house) in the night ; and turned out upon some neigh-
bouring common, in the clay time : so that the farm has
nothing but straw to provide for them.
DARTMORE. 32^
additional number), that he could without
their assistance, — the aggregate encrease of
produce to the community, would be found,
on calculation, to be worthy of public re-
gard. And, in a private point of view, — '
if one may judge from the good estimation
in which Venvil farms are held *, — from the
extraordinary prices which the " Moorside
men" give for rearing calves, — namely, fifteea
to twenty five shillings, at three days old ! a
price which they nowhere else bear (179O),
— and from the comfortable livelihoods which
the smallest of these farmers are enabled to
make, those lands are not, at present,
wholly thrown away.
Nevertheless, tho they are doubtless of
considerable value, at present, it does not
follow that they are, at present, in their most
valuable state.
To speak, in positive terms, of the means
requisite to the
IMPROVEMENT
of this uncultivated tract of country, might
be
* In the paper noticed aforegoing (see Note, p. 326),
the value of the privilege of fen andjield, on Dartmore,
is estimated at one third of the value of the farms of the
township ; which is situated on the immediate margin of
the forest. This, however, is the estimate of claimantSt
33P PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS.
be presumptuous, in one who has confessedly
given it only a cursory incidental examina-
tion. But it has also been premised, that
the passage ot country, under consideration,
is of a species similar to the Moors of York-
shire, and the mountains of Perthshire, —
both of which I have examined with atten-
tion, and have, at diiFerent periods of time,
separately digested my ideas, with respect to
their improvement : circumstances which en-
able me to speak, with greater confidence,
on the improvement of the moory mountains
of Devonshire ; whose distinguishing charac-
teristics lie, chiefly, in the superiority of soil
and climature, compared with those of the
unreclaimed lands of Yorkshire and Perth-
shire.
In suggesting hints for the improvement
of Dartmore and its uncultivated environs, it
will be proper to consider the mountain, or
forest lands, separately from the commons,
and lower grounds of the extensive flat
which has been mentioned ; as they appear
to require somewhat different principles of
improvement.
In the improvement of the HIGHER
LAXDS, the leading objects appear, to me,
to be WOOD and ii£Kbag5. Their climature.
DARTMORE. 331
I apprehend, unfits them for the profitable
production of corx : and a want of manure
IS another bar to this species of produce.
Nevertheless, there may be dips and unreclaim-
ed valUes, T\ hich, as Umited home groundsy
might admit of a course of arable manage-
ment.
But speaking generally of these lands, the
first mean of improvement is pretty evident-
\y that of PLANTING, or otherwise covering
with wood, the stony surfaces : not more
to encrease the value of these particular parts,
than to improve the climature of the whole*.
The Birch y the Mountain Sorh, and the Larch,
if judiciously propagated, would flourish, I
apprehend, on the bleakest exposures. While
the Beech, the Ash, and Oaken coppice
would doubtlessly thrive, in more sheltered
situations.
To improve the herbage of the freer sur-
face of these exposed lands, various means
might be suggested.
Running high fence mounds across the
current
* Particularly, on the higher parts of grounds that in-.
•line to the Eastward, or the Southeast ; where the plants
would gain foothold, before the Westerly winds could
injure them ; and presently afford shelter to the land*
lying beneath them.
332 PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS.
current of the Southwest ^s^-inds, and plant-
ing or sowing them with Birch, perhaps
with Hornbeam, Mountain Sorb, Elder, Hol-
ly, furze. Broom, &c. in the manner re-
commended (see p. 70) ; making the top of
the mound hollow, or conca^ e, to collect and
retain moisture, and to skreen the seedlings, or
joung plants, in their tender state. It were
impossible, perhaps, to conceive a better
fence, for bleak m.ountain lands, than the
ordinar}* hedge of Devonshire. Tlie mound
is an immediate fence and shelter ; and the
coppice wood, as it grows up, cannot fail,
from its relative height above the subjoining
lands, to improve their climature; and
encourage, in a particular manner, the growth
of herbage ; beside being, at the same time,
singularly friendly to pasturing stock. The
only doubt, as to the propriety of raising
such fences, across the bleak lands of Dart-
more, lies in the expence of doing it : for,
great as the positive advantages would doubt-
less be found, — if the expence of raising them
overbalanced these advantages, such means
of improvement would be altogether ineli-
gible to be prosecuted, by Indir'uhtah ; how-
ever profitable the effect might be to the
Puhlic. The freer, better-soiled parts of
DARTMORE. 333
Dartmore, I am of opinion, would pay In-
dividuals, amply, for this Cardinal Im-
provement.
To change the present produce to more
profitable pasturage, either in the open or
an inclosed state, different means might be
pursured.
Burning off the heath of the black
moory parts, and pasturing them hard with
sheep, would tend to extirpate the heath,
and bring up herbage in its place. The
Cheviot hills of Northumberland, and similar
hills in the South of Scotland, were probably
brought to their present state of green turf,
by this means,
SoDBURNiNG the morc loamy soils, sowing
RAPE AND GRASS SEEDS, and FOLDING OFF
THE PRODUCE, with shccp, would be ready
means of meliorating the herbage.
If, by the intervention of Hedge m^ounds,
the climature of these Hills could be render-
ed sufficiently genial for the maturation of
RAPE SEED, and should their soils be found
sufficiently productive of this valuable crop,
the propriety of erecting such fences would
no longer remain doubtful ; as a full crop of
this grain would amply repay any reasonable
expence that could be incurred by inclosing.
334 PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS.
and the inclosure would amply recompense
the loss, which the soil could sustain, from
the exliaustion of one grain crop : grass seeds
being, in course, sown with the rape seed,
or over the plants in the spring ; or a due
portion at each season.
By DRAINING the springy slopes of hills,
and particularly the peatbogs, the produce of
those parts might be ver}^ materially im-
proved.
By WATERING such parts of the lower
slopes as can command water, the herbage,
no doubt, might be considerably bettered. But
very much would depend on the quality of
the water ; and this experience would readily
prove.
By MANURING, something may doubtlessly
"be done, towards the melioration of the
herbage. The vegetable mold of the peat-
bogs, either in a cnide recent state, or in the
state of ashes, would, with moral certainty,
be found serviceable to the loamy soils. And
earthy substances, which, if sought for, might
be found, could not fail of producing bene-
ficial effects, on the black mooiy* lands. It
is needless to add, that if Lime could be
brought to these lands, at a moderate ex-
pence, there would be little risque in the free
DARTMORE. 33^
use of it. With its powerful aid, even Corn
might be produced, on many of the lands
under notice; but whether with eventual
advantage, either to the Proprietor or the
Public (unless on a small scale), is a matter
of great uncertainty. Herbage appears to
be the primary object of cultivation; and
every species that is seen to thrive in similar
situations, should have a sufficient trial.
The most profitable stock for these lands,
in the state of improvement above suggested,
would probably be found to be young Cattle,
Sheep, and Rabbits. The breeding and rear-
ing of Mtdes may be tried, with great pro-
bability of success.
There appear to be many situations in
which R iBBiTs M'ould be most eligible. See-
ing the local situation of these weak-soiled
lands,— between the markets of Exeter and
Plymouth,-— and the favorable turn of sur-
face, which Nature has given to many of
them, for the propagation of this species of
flirm stock, it is rather extraordinary that
RABBIT WARRENS should not bc morc Com-
mon, in this country, than they appear to
be at present. But, perhaps, the true reason
hus been already assigned. See page 2O4.
4 In
33€ PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS.
In the improvement of the LOWER
GROUNDS of this extensive tract of unre-
claimed lands,
Climature is the first object of attention.
It is well known to those ^vho have embraced
opportunities of observing natural effects,
that the Climature of an extended and naked
plain is frequently more severe and chilling,
both to the animal and the vegetable crea-
tion, than that of a billowy surface, of much
greater elevation. The wind, in passing over
the latter, is broken into eddies, and its effects
are thereby softened : beside, let the blast
blow from whence it may, some part of such
a surface will always afford a degree of shel-
ter to animals, that have free range over it ;
and even vegetables, that are fixed, enjoy by
turns, as the wind shifts, the advantages of
its shelter : — while, over an extent of naked
level surface, the current rushes forward
with unabating force ; and let it set from
whatever quarter, vegetables and animals are
equally exposed to its unrelenting severity.
Some Oaks, scattered over the flat of wild
lands now under consideration, might be
adduced, with numberless oth6r facts, in evi-
dence of the truth of this theory. They arc
cut down flat, as with an edge-tool. Had
DARTMORE. 33^
they stood on the heights of Maker, exposed
to the immediate sea blast, they would not
probably have suffered more.
Hence, in this situation, as on the hills,
the first step towards improvement would be
to convert to Woodland, such parts as are
unfit for cultivation ; and to raise Coppice
Hedges across the line of the most mis-
chievous winds, as skreens to the culturable
lands.
In a Climature thus improved, and with a
sufficient supply of Lime, at a moderate price,
I am of opinion that some considerable pro-
portion of these flat lands might be subjected,
with profit, to a course of arable Manasre-
ment. But without a plentiful supply of
Lime, or other calcareous manure, it appears
to me more than probable, from what I have
seen of these lands, that very few of them
would pay for cultivation, as arable lands.
I am therefore of opinion, that, without
the assistance of INLAND NAVIGATION,
this extensive tract of Country must neces-
sarily remain in its present state, or be im-
proved as pasture grounds, in the manner
which has been already suggested, for the
higher lands of Dartmore.
Viewing this wide extent of Country,
VOL. I. z which.
338 PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS.
which, with mor^ certaiuty, might be highly
improved, by means ot a plentiful supply of
Lime : — viewing, next, the numerous tracta
of uhcultivated lands between Okehampton
and Biddeford, wliich are evidently still more
improveablc, as will presently be shown, and
by the same manure : — and, lastly, viewing
the extensi\ e tracts of Woodland, seen in
passing between the places last mentioned,
and the value of Ship Timber at Plymouth ;
— there can be little risque in saying, that
tliere is no other passage of Country, in the
Island, in which the landed intekest calls
equally loud for Inland Navigation, as the
line between Plymouth and Biddeford.
And seeing, at the same time, the length,
and still more the uncertainty, of the pas-
sage, between Wales and the port of Ply-
mouth, by sea ; and the quantity of culm
which is now used for burning Lime, on the
baiiks of the various estuaries that branch out
of it, as well as coals for the use of Ply-
mouth and its neighbourhood, — it appears
that the interests of traffic are also con-
cerned.
Finally, admitting, what I behe^e is known
to be a fact, that it is the bulky articles, here
particubiiz«:^,-i-namely^ Lime, .Co.iLS, and
DARTMORE. 339
Timber, not the Boxes and Bales of Trade,
that render Inland Navigation profitable, —
it may be fairly concluded, that no Line of
Canal is more likely to pay, than that now
under consideration.
The proper direction of the Southern part
of the Line is evident. The Tide flows
within the Estuary or Mouth of the Tavey :
and where the Tide ends, the Canal should
commence ; winding up the valley of the
Tavey, to Tavistock; a branch being thrown
ofF, up the valley of the Walkham, to
Harra bridge, for the use of the extensive
Commons in that neighbourhood, and to
catch the use of the public road which there
crosses the valley. Above Tavistock, the
main line would still wind with the valley of
the Tavey, to the foot of the Dartmore
hills (a most desirable point to be gained),
— and thence bend across the uncultivated
flat, towards Okehampton.
In travelling between Tavistock and Okc-
hampton, I observed (between Lydford and
the latter place) that the road was repaired
with Limestone ! — black marble : a circum-
stance which renders it more than probable,
that the raw materials of improvement lie
z 2 within
3+0 PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS.
within the field to be improved ; and that
Fuel only will be wanted, to render the
prosecution easy and profitable.
Without intending to censure the supine-
ness, which has lately prevailed in this Coun-
try, with respect to the permanent improve-
ment of its surface, I will not hesitate to say,
that had advantages, like those which are
here adduced, occurred within the interior
of the Island, they would long ago have been
seen and embraced : and that whenever the
spirit of enterprise, in this extreme part of
it, shall shift its ground, from Mini>.g, to
Agriculture, the Improvement vvhich is
here pointed out will be carried into etiect.
DISTRICT
i
DISTRICT THE rjDURTII.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE.
Prefatory Remarks.
Ax accurate Definition of what is farniliarly
called " North Devon," or *' the Nortli
Country," I shall not attempt to give. It
is generally applied, I believe, to the Country
lying towards the North Coast ; round Bidde-
ford, Barnstaple, and South !Moulton. But
the District to which this name aptly applies,
is situated between the Mountain of Dart-
more and Bristol Channel ; — comprizing a
wide extent of Country : diversified, it is
true, in soil and surface ; but it has no dis-
tinct separation of parts, large enough to
warrant its being divided into separate Dis-
tricts.
As the only opportunity I had of collecting
information, respecting this District, was ob-
tained by an EXCURSION, undertaken for
the purpose of viewing its prominent fea-
tures^ and of remarking the overt practice's,
z 3 which
342 PREFATORY REMARKS.
which meet the eye of every Traveller, who
looks attentively round him, — I will not at-
tempt a digested Register, either of the Dis-
trict, or its Rural Management ; but offer a
Transcript of my Travelling Journal *.
The route Tshich I thought it proper to
take, was from Okehampton to Hather-
LEY, ToRRINGTOX, BiDDEFORD, BaRXSTAPLE,
South Moultox, and across the Country to
DuLVERTox (to catch a view of Exmoor and
the fine scenery of its Environs) ; and thence^
to Bampton and Tivertox.
* It is, however, with diffidence and some reluctancCj
I adopt this mode of publication. And I have only to
sav, in its behalf, that the series of remarks, which are
here published, arose from facts and reflections, that oc-
curred, in passing through the District under review;
and were in f^eneral dictated while the several subjects of
Remark remained under the eye.
The defective style, in which they appear, is the con-
venient one of a Journal, — or verhal sketch lo9k. It is
concise ; and the pronoun, or the verb, which may fre-
quently be wanting, is readily to be understocd. If the
first person were used, egjotism would disgust : if the se-
cond (as it is in the ordinary stvle of Journal?) sense
would be sacrificed.
•'"'- " K^ORTH DEVONSHmE. ^
OKEHAjVIPTON
AKD ITS ENA^RONS.
SUNDAY, 14 SEPTEMBER, 1794.
THE TOWN,— well sized and respect-
able, considering the recluseness of its situa-
tion, — is seated in a deep bason, broken into
three parts, by the narrow wooded rallies of
the Oke and its two principal branches : the
former winding towards the North, the latter
spreading wide to the East and 'West ; lind
embracing, as with arms, the Northern point
of theDartmore Mountain; which here forms
r
a flattened stage, of consideVabfe extent atid
elevation; overlooking the town, and form-
ing one side of the basoh in which it is situ-
ated. The face of the steep is finely huHg
with wood : — mostlv lar^e full-headed Oaks;
being part of the ancient demesne lands, be-
longing to the Castle of Okehampton ; whose
ruins still occupy a peninsular hillock that
faces this bold woody steep; being divided
from it by the Western branch of the Oke.
The scenery truly alpine.
Sheep, of a diminutive size, are grazing
among the ruins of the Castle. Various in
z 4 head>
344 ENVIRONS or OKEHAMPTON.
head, as those of West Devonshire and Corn-
wall. Some of them resembling very much,
in head and carcase, the size apart, the im-
proved breed of Dorsetshire.
The site of the Castle, and the steep rug-
ged height, on the face of which it stood,
appears to be composed of slatey rock, simi-
lar to that of West and South Devonshire.
Upon this eminence, and on the Western
brink of the Bason, stands the principal
Church of Okehampton : proudly situated ;
and forming a good object from the opposite
height ; making one feature of a fine land-
scape.
The entire Environs, and the views from
them, are rich and beautiful ; but the scale
is small. A truly monastic situation ; — rich
and recluse — yet, I beheve, without the ves-
tige of a monastery !
The fertile swells are now loaded "v^-ith
grass ; and some of them stocked with good
Cows, of the North Devonshire breed. But
little corn ; and most of this is still in the
field. The North side of a Mountain Dis-
trict is naturally liable to a backwardness of
climature.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 345
OKEHA>fPTON
TO
TORRINGTON.
(Seventeen Miles.)
MONDAY, 15 SEPTEMBER, 17Q4.
ASCEND, by a steep ill conducted road,
the Western banks of the Oke, and leave
the cultivated Environs, at one mile from
the Town.
Delightful morning !
» The Okehampton hounds are gone out,
towards the hills of Dartmore ; another pack
now pass the carriage, towards the opposite
hills. A finely wild sporting country.
Enter an extensive fiirze-grown Common;
apparently well soiled, and the subsoil rotten
slate. Land fit for almost any purpose of
Husbandry.
Several plots of these open lands are now
sod-burnt and liming for Wheat ! The entire
Common Hes in narrow ridges, as if it had
undergone the same operation, and been suf-
fered
^ OKEHAMPTOX TO TORRIXGTON.
fered to lav down again to rest, after one
crop of corn had been thus taken.
The Stock, now on this ill applied tract,
are small Sheep ; similar to those near Oke-
hampton.
A rich Valley opens to the right : to the
left a mixed Coimtr}' ; marked by the Church
of Innerley : a pleasing tho gayly colored
object. But the morning is fine ; and Nature,
also, appearing gay, a white- washed steeple
assimilates with the scene.
f' Enter an inclosed, but rough, upland
Countrv.
Farm houses and Cottages mean : mostly
of mud and thatch.
Hedge mounds in the manner of West De-
vonshire ; but not, in general, so high.
See red soil, in the \'alley to the right.
More foTze-covered Commons ; — highly
improveable : a waste of property to sutFer
them to remain in their present unproducti\-e
state. A plot of ^^^leat stubble, on one of
theseCommons, discovers, in its own strength,
that of the land.
Some rubbishly ill bred Cattle. The natu-
ral produce of commonable lands.
Gross a cold clayey Dip ; and enter more
l^ORTH DEVONSHIRE. 34.7
extensive Commons. Thousands of acres of
dwarf furze, which ought to be supplanted
by Wheat, Beans, and Clover *.
Some Timber Trees are seen scattered over
the Inclosures.
A grass field veiled for Wheat ; as in thfe
South of Devonshire.
The spring and the autumn furzes are
here intermixed, as in Cornwall and West
Devon. ,
A billowy, wooded, Kentish view opens
on the left.
A newly planted Hedge mound. The plants
as thick as the arm, and cut down to two or
three feet high, as in West Devonshire. The
Hedgew^oocls Birch, Hazel, Ash.
Enter a cold-soiled Woodland District. An
instance of Scotch Firs planted on this cold
retentive soil !•
Still more extensive tracts of dwarf furze.
Not only the Commons, but some Inclosures,
are cropped with this unprofitable plant ; the
whole of these furze grounds lying in narrow
Wheat ridges.
The
* In 1800, much furze ground appeared to have been
Teclaimed, since 1794. Several corn stubbles, and clover
leys, were then observable.
348 OKEHAMPTON to TORRINGTOX.
T^e common Sheep, here, are small and
mostly polled.
A large parcel of hewn Timber, fit for Ship
Building, collected by the side of the road.
The subsoil of these Commons is a red
clayey gravel.
Enter an inclosed, red soiled plot of Coun-
try, — the immediate Environs of
Hatherley : a mean market Town : most-
ly or wholly built with red earth and thatch.
Some of the houses white-washed, others
rough-cast. Observed Reed in sheaves ; as
in the Western parts of the County.
A beautifully wooded Dip breaks, to the
left : the valley of the Torridge.
Leave the red soil, about a mile from
Hatherley. The subsoil a deep grouty rubble :
red as oker.
Enter a cold, vale Country. The subsoil
a pale colored clay.
A narrow fiat of river- formed land.
Buildings are here entirely of clay.
Four Oxen, two Horses, two Men, and a
Boy, at one plow ! '
Cross the Torridge.
A shameful fall of young Timber *.
* 1800. The slender young tlmbcrlings, which were
then left standing, arc, now, most of them dead, or in a
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 349
A charming broad wooded Bason, here
opens to the West, — between Hatherley and
Sheepwash ;— the Banks of the Torridge :
And, now, a wide flat of Marshes, on the
right ; apparently in a wild, neglected, un-
productive state.
Heuish, Sir James NorclifTs, appears on
the opposite banks of these marsh lands.
A bad Turnpike road traces a high ridge
of cold white clay, — commanding a strongly
featured country.
Ridges of Lime and Earth, for \Mieat, are
comipon in the adjoining Inclosures.
Coppice Hedges universal.
Descend, by a steep road, into a well soiled
Dell. The subsoil slatey rubble, or rotten
slate rock.
Very few Orchard Grounds in this Country.
Ascend '* Padstow" (Petrockstow) Hill:
an insulated eminence ; commanding a line
circle of views. To the South, the jNIoun-
tain of Dartmore rising boldly to the eye,
and forming a remarkably strong feature from
this point. To the East, the rising banks of
the Torridge and the Taw ; apparently, well
soiled,
stunted unprofitable state. The statute that requires such
standards to be left ought to be repealed. See page 90,
4
350 OKEHAMPTON to TORRINGTON.
soiled, and well cultivated; the foregrotind
of this view, the Valley of '' IMarland" — or
or Marshland, in a state of neglect, — much
of it occupied by furze ; to appearance, highly
improveable. To the North, a ridge of well
soiled arable upland. To the M'est, a finely
wooded District. How delightful the morn-
ing ! with the Lark in full song : — and with
hounds in full cry !
A distant view of the North Countr}% now
begins to open.
The lands, here, are wholly inclosed :
mostly in large square Devonshire Fields.
Passed the first Cart : drawn in the Cleve-
land manner ! three horses ; one in the shafts,
the other two abreast, and guided by reins :
loaded with bark, for the port of Biddeford ;
to be there shipped for Ireland.
Cross a well timbered Hollow. Much va-
luable Ship Timber, in this District.
Close, steep, woody lanes, — how tantaliz-
ing and tiresome to a Traveller !
Enter a well soiled passage ; mostly arable.
Some plots of Turneps and Clover.
Very few Field Potatoes in this passage of
Countr}'.
A Box : Winscot : the first Home I have
passed near, in this stage.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. si^
Still a well soiled arable Country. Farms
seemingly of good size ; and not ill culti^
vated.
Observe sereral good Horses, in this Dis-
trict.
Another passage of good upland Country..
Skirted by a cold rushy bottom.
Meet a string of Lime Horses, from Bid-
deford ; eight or ten miles.
Lime, here, a prevaihng manure.
Hedge mounds increase in height: this,
altogether, a South-Devonsliire-like District :
productive heights spreading wide : — rotund
swells checkered with Coppice Fences.
An extensive view opens to the left.
Instance of a cropt Hedge. What a loss
to the Traveller, that the practice is not pre-*
valent !
Large Vv hite Pigs, in a good form.
A fine view of the Valley of Torrington
bursts upon the eye.
Orchard Grounds encrease.
A charming back view of the Valley above
Torrington ; well formed ground, happily
enriched with wood and water.
An extensive and rich view, to the right,
including the Eastern banks of the Taw.
An instance of limed Grass land.
Drag
3Sa OKEHAMPTON to TORRINGTON.
Drag dowTi a long steep hill to the Bridge
of Torrington *.
General Remarks.
The Townships- ''n this stage, appear to
be of the middle size. The Churches, in
general, tall and conspicuous.
Of the State of Inclosure, it may be said,
that about half the lands, which fall imme-
diately under the eye, are inclosed ; the rest,
in coarse furzy Commons, capable of great
improvement.
The Fields are generally well shaped, and
well sized; as in West and South Devon-
shire.
The Fences, throughout, are similar to
those in the Southern parts of the County.
But the Mounds are somewhat narrower and
lower.
Woodlands extensive. Oak the prevailing
wood. Much fine Timber : much also in a
state of Coppice.
The Orchard Grounds are few and small.
The Arable Crops appear, by the stubbles,
♦ How unfortunate that a train of circumstances should
have led the road into its present unlevd line ; while the
direct Valley of the Oke and Torridge lies open to re-
ceive it.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 353
to be chiefly Wheat and Oats : but altoge-
ther small, in proportion to the Grass Lands
and Furze Grounds which occupy this Line
of Country ; especially towards Okehampton.
The Climature is somewhat forwarder than
about Okehampton. The crops mostly har-
vested.
The preparations, now going on for the
next year's crop of Wheat, are the very same,
here, as in the South of Devonshire ; namely,
ley ground, burnt and limed.
Very few Cattle, or Sheep, are seen in the
Inclosures ; which are now full of grass.
The state of Husbandry, on the whole, is
considerably below par*.
TORRINGTON
* 1803. August. From Launceston, by Hols-
worthy, to TORKINGTON.
The major part of this singular Passage bears no affinity
to the rest of the Country. The surface is almost a dead
flat of mean, cold, water-shaken land I Heath and rushes
appearing to be its natural produce. Now, partially in-
closed, — in part open. A wretched Country to farm in ;
and lies too far from water carriage (at present) to be
planted ; even if limber of any sort would thrive upon it.
In travelling over this unpromising Passage, it struck me
forcibly, from the appearances of its surface, that Coals,
it is not improbable, are lodged beneath it. At least, if
Coals are to be found, in Devonshire, this, I am of opi-
nion, is the most likely part wherein to search for them.
\oi, I. A A Betweea
354 TORRINGTON and its EKVIRONS.
TORRINGTON
AND ITS EN^^IRONS.
THE TOWN is proudl}^ situated, on the
brink, and in part steeply hanging on the
brow, of the Eastern bank of the Torridge,
It is a large inland Market Town ; but has
no thorofare to support it. There is no post-
ing inn, in the place ! and only one chaise
kept for hire. Nevertheless, the Town is
neat, and the people alive. Circumstances
to be accounted for, only, in the many fa-
Between Launceston and Holsworthy, the Country is
mostly of the above description. — Round Holsworthy (a
small market town) lies a circumscribed plot of valuable
land ; the site of the town being well chosen. — But, on
leaving its environs, a continuation of cold heaihv Com-
mons, and large water-chilled Indosurcs, is entered upon.
These, however, are again interrupted by the fertile banks
of the Torridge (here, a mere brook). But, leaving these,
the cold weak Country recommences, and reaches to the
more important banks of the Torridge and the Oke united;
in the neighbourhood of Torrington.
Here, a truly Devonian style of Country breaks upon
the eye, and extends as far as the eye, from this elevated
point of view, can reach : including the fertile District
between Torrington and South Moulton ; — affording a
broad view of what might be termed the Nokth Hams
of Devonshire,
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 355
mily residences, which appear in its neigh-
bourhood, and which seldom fail to melio-
rate the manners of every class of those, who
fall within the sphere of their influence.
The view from the site of the Castle — now
a Bowling Green — is uncommonly fine. A
wooded amphitheatre, richly diversified: with
a lengthened bend of water in the middle
o;round : — and with fox hounds in the woods!
TORR INGTON
TO
BIDDEFORD*.
(Seven Miles.)
MONDAY, 15 SEPTEMBER, 1794.
A WELL soiled Common near the Town;
stocked with small neat Sheep.
Pass between fertile Liclosurcs : a rich and
beautiful Country.
Cross a lovely wooded valley : thriving
Oak Timber ; well thinned and set out.
A small Yorkshire plow. The first I have
observed in the County.
The
* For travelling notes between Torrington and
B-^RNSTAPLE, see Minute 55.
A A 2
356 TORRINGTON to BIDDEFOllD.
The surface broken, abruptly, into hill
and dale : a Danmonian passage : wooded
Cooms rising from the narrow Valley of
the Torridge, which winds at some distance
from the line of road.
Surmount a clean upland Countr}'. The
substratum brown rusty rock.
Reach the summit of the ridge: a furze-
grown waste. A broad view of the Bristol
Channel meets the eye ; with extensive land
views, on either side. On the one hand,
Hartland Point and Lundy Island, — a pro-
minent and striking feature; on the other,
the high lands of the Coast, above Ilfracomb,
&:c. ; with Exm ore in the distance.
Descend towards Biddeford. Meet strings
of Lime Horses, vritli pack saddles and bags
of Lime. Also two-horse Carts, with Lime
and Sea Sand.
General Rem ARK. — This Passage of Coun-
try, in Soil, Surface, and apparent General
Management, perfectly resembles the South-
western parts of Devonshire.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 357
BIDDEFORD
AND ITS ENVIRONS.
TUESDAY, lO SEPTEMBER, 1/94.
THE Town is aiikwardly situated, and
meanly built. And, in vacant spaces be-
tween the streets, immense piles of furze
faggots rise, in the shape of houses ; making
the houses themselves appear smaller than
thev reallv are.
These dangerous piles of fuel are for the
use of the pottery, for which this Town is
noted : — chiefly, or wholly, the coarser kinds
of earthen ware *.
The Bridge of Biddeford is an extraordi-
nary erection : a high thick wall, run across
the river or narrowed estuary ; with Gothic
gateways, here and there, to let the water
pass.
The tide out : many men employed in
loading pack horses, with sand, left in the
bed of tlic river f : and, in every vacant
corner
* 1803. Those alarming nuisances have been judi-
ciously removed, a'.vay from the Town, to the opposite
banks of the Torridge.
t For the quality of this sand, see note, page 155.
A V 3
^-^o BIDDEFORD and its ENVIRONS.
comer about the Town, composts of earth,
mud, ashes, &c. are seen. Shell sand is said
to be plentiful on the coast ; but little, if any
of it, is brought up this river !
On the shore of the estuary, opposite to
the Town, are several limekilns, now in full
work. Numbers of pack horses, and a few
carts, loadmg, or waiting for loads. The
stone is chictiy, and the culm with which it
is burnt wholly, brought across the chan-
nel, from the coast of Wales. The kilns are
similar to those of West Devonshire. This
lime is carried fourteen or fifteen miles; chiefly
on horseback ; — for manure.
Stroll upox the high lands, to the South
AND West of the Town.
The subsoil of the skirts of the hill is a
Slate rubble. A base kind of Slate is used as
a covering.
Some charming views, from the midway
stages of this eminence. To the North, the
conflux of the estuaries of the Taw and the
Torridgc, — backed by the cultivated hills of
the coast. To the South, a beautiful bend
of the narrowing estuary of the Torridge,
losing itself in the windmg wooded valley of
that river : ^kreencd, on either hand, by
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 359
wooded heights, and backed by wilder dis-
tances. Each of these views is worthy of
the pencil. The former is grand — the lines
ample; — but the latter is more picturable,
as a landscape. The home views, on every
side, are pleasing. The surface finely broken ;
resembling that in the environs of Bridport ;
but the features are larger, and the lines less
abrupt.
The soil, of this midway of the swell, is
a fertile well colored loam ; on a pale and
stronger subsoil.
The whole country is inclosed ; mostly in
large fields, with coppice fences — cut down
by the wind : a circumstance more favorable
to the admirers of natural landscape, than to
the husbandman.
No hedgerow timber : but a few groups
of trees are scattered on the hills. The steep
banks of the Torridge are chiefly hung with
coppice wood.
The farm produce is principally grass ; with
some little corn ; and most of it still out !
The stock, observable from this station,
are cattle and sheep. The former in herds,
as if the farms were large. The sheep arc
above the middle size, — and mostly polled.
Nearer the summit of the hill, the land is
A A 4 colder,
360 BIDDEFORD and its EWIROXS.
colder, and the herbage coarse : abounding
with super-aquatic weeds. But the summit
itself is ajrain drv, sound, and tolerablv well
soiled.
A wide circle of views are seen, from an
Object House (in ruins) near the summit. A
very extensive view opens to the Southeast ;
but the horizon is too hazy to trace it to
its farthest distance. To the Southwest, a
strong!}" featured upland District ; large well
turned cultivated swells, separated, and the
face of the country diversiiicd, by winding
wooded valhes, in the best style of Kent or
Herefordshire ; with tall and stately towers
of Churches scattered over the wide spread-
inor scene.
On the upper stages of this eminence, and
in descending its Western dechvity, I ob-
served many young horses ; much of the
Yorkshire breed ; but somewhat shorter and
thicker.
Also some good North-Devonshire cows.
BiDDrroRD Market.
A few fat, .ii.vl some store cattle; with
three or four heifers and calves. The heifers
rather small; but neat; and with remark-
ably fine bags ! the most promising appear-
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 361
ance of milk, that I have observed, in the
Devonshire breed of cattle.
A few sheep, and two or three colts (wean-
ed foals) in halters.
The Corn Market well filled with long
two-bushel bags ; chiefly of wheat.
The shambles full of good mutton ; — with
a scanty show of beef.
Salmon in considerable plenty ; but no sea
fish !
The womens' market well supplied.
Cartloads of country bread, exposed in the
market place, for sale. A market article,
this, which I have not before observed.
Stroll upon the rising grounds, on the
North side of the Town.
These grounds are separated from the hill
on which the Town is situated, by a creek
of marshland, in its natural state, as formed
by the tide ; excepting a plot of seven or
eight acres, which is now embanking: an
operation, which, if it were carried on, with
proper exertion, could not fail to pay three-
fold for the money expended. If the men,
who are employed upon it, may be considered
as a sample of the Laborers of North Devon,
thev
362 BIDDEFORD and its ENVIRONS.
thej exceed, in laziness, their countrymen of
the West.
A low bank, thrown up across these marsh-
lands, furnishes, at once, a safe road, and
gives effect to a tide mill, situated near one
end of it.
A rich loamy soil to the very summit of
this hill : a narrow ridge.
A good view of the Bay of Barnstaple, and
its finely diversified coast : here, a flat shore;
there, steep lofty cliffs.
Some charming near views are seen from
these grounds. Tapley (Mr. Cleveland's J a
fine situation, is seen with advantage.
The entireeiivironsare studded with houses:
some of them substantial ; others neat. Yet
still we find the Town itself a contrast to
Torrington. The influence even of half a
score famihes is not sufficient to burnish the
appearance and manners of a small seaport
Town, in a remote situation.
General Remarks. The climature of
this District is evidently later than that of
West De\'onshire : much of the corn, grown
in it, is yet out !
Tliere are few orchards in these environs.
Several carts appear ; but no waggons.
Pack horses are chiefly prevalent.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 363
The state of husbandry is on a par with
that of the rest of the County ; or in some
degree superior : a laudable assiduity, in col-
lecting and mixing manures, is singularly
conspicuous.
On a general view of the District, at this
season, it resembles South Devonshire, so
much, with respect to natural characters
and Farm Management, that, in a register of
their Rural Economy, they might well be
considered as one and the same District ; ex-
cepting an observable superiority in the breeds
of cattle and horses, in this part of the coun-
ty ; and except a somewhat freer use of wheel
carriages, here, than in the South Hams, and
West Devonshire.
BIDDEFORD
TO
BARNSTAPLE.
(Eight Miles.)
WEDNESDAY, 1 7 SEPTEMBER, 1794.
ANOTHER broken billowy District : high
rotund swells, separated by deep narrow
vallies.
The
364 EIDDEFORD to BARNSTAPLE.
The materials of these hills appear to be
chiefiv rt.ttcn slate, or rustv slate-stone rub-
ble, similar to that of A\'est Devonshire and
Cornwall.
Creeks of marsh land branch out of the
estuar}' : the soil of these marshlets is some-
what redish. Now stocked with cattle. But
thev are ai present in a rough unreclaimed
state, and appear to be highly improvcable.
The road is of <itone, and remarkably good.
The stepis of corn stacks thatched with
reed.
Leave a sweet woody del), on the right.
A stuccoed barn : mud- wall plaistered.
A breed of remarkably tall white Pigs.
Roof heaps of lime and earth compost, on
unbroken sward. Q. For Wheat }
Pass over a \A'ell soiled upland country :
the substratum earthy slate, up to the soil.
A few stone buildings obsen able.
High mound coppice hedges lull of gro\\'th.
The timber trees, on this side of the County ,
are remarkably shorn with the Xorthwest
wind.
The wide valley of the Taw opens to the
view, and the nature of the Countr}- changes,
from sound clean soil, to cold aquatic land ; —
alder swamps, rushy inclosures, and rough
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 365
furze grounds ; with inucli oak wood. The
coppices in general healthy ; but the timber
much injured by the coldness of the substra-
tum, and the winds from the sea. One
wood is completely stag-headed : what a
waste of property to let it stand.
^Meet several docks of " Exmore" lambs ;
many hundreds ; invariably horned ; and,
mostly, even in carcase ; on their way to the
Northwest of Devonshire, and the North of
Cornwall, to their winter pastures.
An instance of coppice wood, on a flat
surface ; as in Kent and Sussex : the first in-
stance of it, 1 have observed, in the West of
England,
Enter on a long and rather steep descent,
into the vale, or valley, of Barnstaple.
A large field breast-plowed, and now
burning.
Still a cold-soiled, well wooded District.
Much furze-grown rough ground ; which ap-
pears to be very capable of improvement.
See a heath-covered knoll, to the right.
Good covv's ; mostly of a dark blood-red color.
Toward the foot of the hill, the land im-
proves.
A broad flat of meadows and marshlands
occupies the base of the valley.
Good
366 BIDDEFORD to BARNSTAPLE.
Good grazing cattle, in rich marshes.
Some large houses are seen among the fine
scenery on the opposite banks of the valley.
Cross the Taw, and enter Barnstaple ; by
a bridge similar to that of Biddeford.
General Remarks. — The climatiire im-
proves ; no corn observable in the field, in
this stage.
The produce — arable crop?, grass, wood,
roughets of furze, and coarse herbage.
Townships — apparently large.
The whole Countn' inclosed ; — mostlv, in
large square fields.
The farms apparently of a good size.
The fences truly Danmonian.
The cattle, which appeared, are of a good
sort. But not superior to what I expected
to have seen, in this neighbourhood.
No Sheep observTd, in the inclosures :
Nor wheel carriages, on the road.
In the general state of husbandry, nothing
new struck me, in this passage of country.
The most obvious improvement, of which
it appears to be capable, is that of draining,
burninjr, and fallowing, the cold rough lands.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 367
BARNSTAPLE
AND ITS
ENVIRONS.
THE day is incessantly rainv, and ill cal^
ciliated for pedestrian examinations.
The Town is .respectable. The streets are
wider and better laid out, than those of old
Towns generally are. Many of the houses
are substantially built \\\\h bricks, But the
covering, here, is of the same mean-looking
slate, as that which is in use at Biddeford.
Leith carts and Highland sledges (or im-
plements very much resembling them !) are
seen in the streets of Barnstaple.
Some small craft in the river, and in a
creek which washes one side of the Town.
And two small vessels on the Stocks.
Pilton, a pleasant village, adjoins to Barn-
staple.
A bold Promontory, which rises abruptly
in the center of the broad valley, above the
Town, — severing the Taw from the Brook
of Pilton and its sweetly winding woody
Dell, — forms a striking feature, among the
assemblage of picturable scenes, which the
environs of Barnstaple appear, even through
the dim medium of rain, to be capable of
affording. BARN-
368 BARNSTAPLE to SOUTH MOULTON.
BARNSTAPLE
TO
SOUTH MOULTON.
(Eleven Miles.)
WEDNESDAY, 1/ SEPTEMBER, 1794.
A RICH flat of meadows and marshlands,
above the Town ; nearlv a mile wide : evi-
dently formed by the tide and floods.
The Country-, on either side, picturably
broken, and \\ ell wooded.
Some fine Cows now in the meadows.
Sea-sand compost is here in use.
Pass through Newport, a large village.
Tlie Buildings chiefly Earth and Thatch;
but some Bricks, Stone, Slate, and Pantiles
are in use.
The breed of ver\- tall wliite Pigs still
continues.
^leet more Exmore Lambs going ^^'est-
ward to their wintering grounds.
Tlie day is set in for rain ; yet the appear-
ance of the Country is delightful beyond de-
scription. Perhaps rain, as varnish, mellows
the Views.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 369
The substratum, here, is sl'atey rock; worn
into hollow ways.
Lofty swells productive to their summits,
as those of the South Hams.
The prevailing subsoil is slatey rubble.
A valley opens to the left ; richly soiled,
well cultivated, and stocked with fine cattle*
Some large orchards in this valley.
Close woody hedges, with some timber in
them.
The roads are in a shameftil state : evidently
injured by the hedges. Why is not the Law
enforced? In this Country, where wood-
lands abound, and where coals may be had
at a reasonable rate, no serious evil could
arise were all the hedges in it shorn to their
mounds.
Sea-sand composts are still seen by the side
of the road (5 miles from "Barum").
A small waste hillock appears to the right.
The substratum, now, a mass of rock,
broken into checkers, — and rising to the soil.
Gret a broad view of the rich and beautiful
Valley of Swimbridge.
A large flock of Sheep appear on its base.
Instance of Oats now green as Grass ! the
second instance observed ?
Vol. 7. B a A wide
370 EARNSIAPE to SOLTTH MOULTON.
A wide view opens to the East ; but is cur-
tailed by the hazyness of the atmosphere.
Rich grass land, to the summits of the
swells.
The Valley of the Taw opens, at some
distance to the right : a wooded District.
A fine back view, from Rerscot Hill,
of the Estuary and its banks : broad, but
grand, and picturable *.
An obvious improvement, in the hne of
road. The hill is crossed, when its base
might be traced nearl}' on the Wei.
The fields in this Country, as in the South
of Devonshire, appear to be large in propor-
tion to the Farms.
A breed of small sheep ; apparently with
fine wool.
Rock and slate rubble rise to the soil of
rich grass land.
■* 1803. Tills view, when sufTused with a brilliant
atmosphere, is magnificent bevond the description, either
of the pen or the pencil. It comprize?, not only an
ample va ley of great richness and beauty, with its lofty
and finely diversified banks, its fair town and villages, its
river and winding estiiarv, but unites with these a^&trongly
featured inlet of the sea — the entire Bay of Barnstaple —
wdldefined, by its hi^h cliffs and rugged promontories:
the Isle of Lundy, seen in far distance, giving adJiiional
feature to this richly composed and well poized natural
LA.NDSCAPE.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 371
Grazing Cattle, on the higher hills ; as in
the South Hams.
Meet " a pair of wheels :" the first from
Biddeford !
The road improves.
A sweet Country ; but most difficult to be
seen! A distant view, at length opens to
the East.
Black Limestone road : tolerably good.
Philley, Lord Fortescue's noble place,
breaks at once upon the eye : a finely wood-
ed bason. The Timber abundant, and seem-
ingly well set out.
A herd of young cattle, and a flock of
sheep, in the grounds about the house.
The Farmery large ; bespeaking a suitable
extent of demesne in hand.
A very deep quarry of black Limestone.
Similar in appearance, to the Chudleigh
marble : but the color is less bright.
This capacious quarry is not less than fifty
feet deep. The stones are brought up from
the lower depths on horseback ; and the wa-
ter is raised by a horse pump.
Pass a string of two-horse carts, guided
with reins, in the Cleveland manner ! Has
a colony of Clevelanders formerly settled in
B B 2 North
37^ BARNSTAPLE to SOUTH MOULTON.
North Devonshire, and brought with them
their carts and horses ?
Vile roads again : and in the neighbour-
hood of a great man's residence ! But, per-
haps his Lordship's Lime Work is the prin-
cipal cause of the evil. The color of the
materials, and the state in which they at
present lie, give them every appearance of
roads to Coal pits *.
Still an inclosed, well soiled Country.
A stately To^^'er, proudly situated, appears
in front ; — South Moultox.
Mount a rich well turned swell, and enter
die Town.
1803. Interesting as this stage appeared,
from a close carriage, and seen through a
murky atmosphere, it has still greater attrac-
tions, when viewed from an open carriage,
on a clear summer's day. It certainly is, to
an admirer of the rich and beautiful in cul-
tivated nature, one of the most pleasing
drives in the Island.
* 1803. The site of the quarry is now a flourlshmg
plantation, and the public road, in the neighbourhood of
Castle Hill, in the highest state of keeping
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 373
SOUTH MOULTON
AND ITS
ENVIRONS.
THUKSDAY, 18 SEPTEMBER, 1/94,
THE TOWN, which consists of a spa-
cious, newlj built jNIarket Place, surrounded
with inferior streets, caps a rotund hillock,
situated among other hillocks of a similar na-
ture, and wearing similar appearances ; — rich
and beautiful in a superior degree.
The soil a fertile loam,
The subsoil pale rubble, or rotten slate,
or a kind of soft checkered rock.
Some wood in the vallies; but not an
acre of unproductive land to be seen in the
neighbourhood. — One of the finest farming
Districts in the Kingdom.
Walked towards the Barton of Great HilJ,
to view INIr. Trigg's Breed of Cattle ; which
is reckoned one of the first in this neighbour-
hood. And the District of South Moulton
is spoken of as the first, for the North De-
vonshire breed *. Saw
■* 1804. This valuable breed of Cattle has of late
years been widely spreading over the face of the kipgdom j
B jj 3 and
374 SOUTH MOULTON and its ENVIRON S
Saw six of his Cows. All of them good .
One of them superior to the rest : remark-
able in the carcase ; well loined, wide at the
hips, and square in the quarters ; with a fine
head and bone. The horns also fine, and
shorter than ordinary. The color a lightish
blood-red ; the rest darker, and mostly with
smokey faces. All of them low on their legs :
a size between the Glocestershire and the
Herefordshire.
The day is too tempestuous, to keep the
field : and I have already gained a sutHcient
idea of the North-Devonshire breed of Cattle.
A farther examination might gratify ; but
could not instruct : they are evidently a su-
perior variety of the middle-horned breed ;
and are of course one of the first breeds of
Cattle in the Island.
and it might take possession of many parts of it, with
great profit to the country. The purest fountain of this
breed is now in the ncighbourbcod of Barnstaple,
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 375
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS,
ON THE COUNTRY BETWEEN BIDDEFORD AND
SOUTH MOULTON, INCLUDING
THEIR ENVIRONS.
IN a general view of this Line of Countrj,
— whether wfe attend to the height or forma-
tion of its surface, — to its soil, its substrata
(a short passage- on the West of Barnstaple
excepted), or their present produce, — to the
state of inclosure, the size or shape of fields,
or the nature of their fences, — to the species
of arable crops (no trace of the bean crop or
other article of pulse now observable), or the
manner of producing them (so far as it ap-
pears at this season), — or to the livestock or
animals of labor (except as above excepted,
see p. 3O3) — it so perfectly resembles the Dis-
tricts of South Devonshire, that they might
be conceived to have once been united ; and
to have been forcibly separated, and thrown
into their present situations, by the Moun-
tain of Dartmore, in one of Nature's convul-
sive paroxysms, having broken them asunder,
and placed itself in the breach.
B B 4 SOUTH
376 SOUTH MOULTON to DULVLRTON.
SOUTH MOULTON
TO
DULVERTON*.
(Thirteen Miles.)
THURSDAY, 18 SEPTEMBER, 1794.
AT less than two miles from the To^^'n,
leave its fertile Environs.
A pretty, but unproductive, valley to th*
left : alders, rushes, and rough grounds.
Climb the side of this valley. The sub-
stratum close rock, up to the soil : no inter-
♦ 1803. From South Moulton, by Chumleigh,
—towards Crediton and Exeter.
The same style of countr)' prevails between South
Moulton and Chumleigh, as that which characterizes the
environs of the former. But the unlevelness of the road
is intolerable '.-—enough to put even a patient traveller
out of love with the country.
Chumleigh in embers ! still glowing ! (20 August.)
Full two thirds of the town burnt to the ground ! Not
only the thatched roofs and timbers, but the walls (of
earth and straw) took fire, and encreased the conflagration !
Southward of Chumleigh, a similar turn of surface
continues j but the richness of the soil decreases, to within
a few miles of Crediton j where a different style of coun-
try commences ; and will be mentionedj in speaking of
the Vale of Exeter,
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 377
vening rubble, or other earthy subsoil : the
land lean, and the produce weak : a contrast
to the neighbouring lands ; though the soils
appear to be similar.
Another rainy day, with a storm of wind.
^leet a drove of cart horses, and a string
of saddle horses, on their way to the Fair of
Barnstaple : — the property of a Dorsetshire
Dealer.
Mount a rough furze-grown height, — an
extensive Common, — and catch a broad view
to the South; apparently, a cold infertile
District.
Bend to the left, from the Tiverton road ;
and enter narrow woody lanes, barely per-
vious, by a carriage.
Break out of this pass, into other Com-
mons ; and nearly approach the heaths of
Exmore ; a narrow valley only inters-ening.
ExMORE, in this point of view", is without
feature ; appears as a flat, or at most, a tame-
ly billowy heath. Its hills scarcely rise above
the cultivated swells that environ them. This
side of it, at least, has not a trait of the
Mountain character.
Wind along the brink of the valley. The
opposite banks are apparently well soiled and
wel}
3/8 SOLTH MOULTON to DULVERTOX.
well cultivated ; tho they form the immediate
skirts or margin of the Moor.
Some wooded Dells branch out of the
valley.
Sheep on these Commons ; — similar to
those of West Devonshire and Ccmwall ! —
part horned ; part hornless.
See corn in arrish mows ; or small field
stacks.
Trace a ridge of cold land ; a woodland
soil ; and leave a similar dip to the right.
Enter and skirt a wide fern-grown Com-
mon : large plots of fern now in swath. Also
dwarf furze, and some heath. The soil deep
and culturable.
Approach still nearer the Exmore Heaths :
now crimsoned with blossoms ; which
brighten as the day clears up.
The soil of the Moor Skirts is somewhat
red. Laid out in large square Danmonian
Fields. Much of it in a state of arable land :
a few Turneps.
The valley widens, and breaks into well
soiled hillocks. The two parishes of East
,and West Anstey appear to be in a good state
of culture. Several plov.ed fields; apparently
clean fallows.
Meet strings of Lime Horses ; from Bamp-
ton Lime ^^'orks.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 379
Several instances of good young Cattle, of
the North Devon Breed.
Building Materials — Earth and Thatch:
an entire suite of new Farm Buildings, just
finished, of these materials.
Lose sight of the Exmore Hills ; but still
keep the brink of the valley ; having enjoyed
a tolerably level road for seven or eight miles !
Holly abounds in this cold-soiled situation:
it is frequently seen to mix with the Alder.
Leave the high ground, and descend into
the valley. The Subsoil slatey rubble.
Stirring Wheat Fallows, with four oxen :
the first oxen, and the first plow, I have seen
at work, in North Devonshire !
Narrow Wheat ridges, as in West Devon-
shire.
The road, of black Limestone, is narrow,
but well laid out.
Thick polled Sheep, as in the South Hams.
Instance of watering Grass land : the first
I have observed, in North Devonshire.
" Dunstone,*' and good Grass land, as
about Moulton.
A Lime kiln : black stone, lodged among
" Dunstone," or soft checkered Rock.
Some tolerably large Orchards ; with low
Devonshire trees ; tho within the County of
Somerset. Another
%So SOUTH MOULTON to DULVERTON.
Another Sea, or rather Bay, of rich Dati-
monian swells.
Approach DuLVERTo^' ; by another Gothic
bridge.
DULVERTON
AND ITS
ENVIRONS.
THIS small Market Town is situated in a
deep narrow valley ;— chiefly near its base,
but partly climbing up its Eastern bank.
The Church conspicuous and neat ; and the
place altogether, has a plain, neat, and plea-
sing appearance. Immediately below the
Town is Pickston, a small place, belonging
to the Ackland family.
The approach from ^foulton is singularly
pleasing. Pickston, a plain-dressed place,
first meets the eye; and immediately the
Town, equally unsuspected, bursts abruptly
into the sequestered scene : a rich and beau-
tiful bason, hemmed in on every side ; the
valley to the North being closed with steep
winding banks hung with Coppice wood ;
and, on the other hand, the rising grounds
and woods of Pickston form an impervious
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 381
skreen; the Exmore Hills just showing them-
selves above the middle ground of the vievs^ ;
a meek, modest, lovely little picture.
Walk upon the Hill above the Town.
A charming ^iew, from the mid^^-ay of
the steep, of the ^-alley below (in this point
©f \*iew, also, closed in as a bason), including
Pickston.
Reach a deserted place of view, on the
summit of the hill ; and catch a most interest-
ing detail of the winding valley of Dunsbrook;
the eye tracing it within the wilds of Ex-
more : steep, narrow, and thickly wooded ;
with a narrow base of water-formed land,
waving with the stream ; a finely alpine
scene.
At a sharp bend of the valley, immediately
under the eye, and facing a long reach that
points to the Northwest, the Coppice wood
is cut down, by the wind, in a \ery singular
manner; even at this distance — twelve or
fifteen miles — from the Sea. But the bleak
air of Exmore may, alone, be equal to produce
the etfect.
The soil of this eminence is dark-colored
and fertile, to its highest ridge.
Large fatting Wedders are now grazing
upon it, 4 Some
3Sa DUUTRTON and its ENMROXS
Some fine Cows, on a neighbouring swell.
Whichever way the eye is turned, it is
caught by something that appears rich or
beautiful. But perhaps its judgement has been
warped by meetmg with more than was ex-
pected. The st}'le of scener>' is singular.
There is much in the situation of Dulverton
that reminds me of Blair of Athol ; tho, in,
scenery, they somewhat ditFer.
DULVERTON
TO
TIVERTON.
(Thirteen ]Miles.)
THURSDAY, 18 SEPTEMBER, 1794.
PASS under Pickston House, a low white
building, within a deer paddock.
Many sheep observable, in the bason of
Dulverton : all thick-carcased, and polled.
Obser\'e several wheel carriages, — carts,
and waggons, — on this road, and in Dulver-
ton : on their way to and from Minehcad,
and other parts of the Coast.
Three-wheeled barrows, drawn by horses,
are used in setting about manure.
Beginning
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 383
Beginning to sow wheat. Shovel out the
interfurrows ; as, formerly, in West Devon-
shire.
The \'alley contracts, and the tall impend-
ing trees, with which its sides are hung, ap-
pear to close it, as below Blair *. But, break-
ing through this pass, a wide valley, diversi-
fied with bold rotund knolls, is entered.
Lime horses are seen creeping up the steep
sides of the hills.
Move good Cows in the valley.
The road good, and the day fine.
The soil of this passage is redish ; — the
subsoil rubble, the loMcr stratum rock : sel-
dom-failing criteria of fertile land.
Leave the valley, and surmount a rough
furze-grown height,
A few large Beeches scattered over this
District.
Catch a good back view of Exmore, and
seem to leave it.
A wide view opens to the Southwest.
Still keep the hills ; a well soiled, upland
District.
See the Exe, at some distance, winding at
the foot of a tall, steep, wooded bank ; a pas-
sage
* A Seat of the Duke of Athol, in the Perthshire
Highlands.
2H DULVERTON to TIVERTON.
sage of natural scenery that is sketched with
a broad free pencil.
Descend precipitously into another fertile
and recluse plot of Country" ; — the beautiful
Environs of Bampton.
Bampton — a small mean market town ;
overlooked by an extensive Limework, whose
ragged excavations and heaps of rubbish seem
to conspire with the town to disfigure this
sweetly designed passage of Nature. But the
face of a Country cannot be disfigured to a
better purpose, than that of contributing to
its improvement. These works are said to
have been carried on, time immemorial, for
the purposes of husbandry.
The strata of these Quarries lie steeply
shelving. The Limestone lies in thick strata
of large irregular blocks ; divided by thin
seams of redish base stone ; and by thicker
strata of brown earth ; some of it soft and
light as soot ! and soils the fingers as soot
or oker ; having every appearance of a valu-
able pigment. The workmen call it " rotten
stone."
The stone, in general appearance, resembles
that of Chudicigh ; darkly colored, and in-
terspersed with white veins ; but the Bamp-
ton stone has a purplish cast, sparkles with
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 3S5
bright particles, and is of a looser texture,
than that of Chiidleigh.
The rubbish of the Quarries is carried out
on horseback ; and the stones drawn up ta
the kilns, in three-wheeled horse barrows ;
— whicli, an old Laborer tells me, have been
used, in this Country, bejond remembrance.
The construction and dimensions of one
of these barrows are as follo^\' : The form is
that of the common old-fashioned wheel-
barrow of most Districts. The sides are
nearly upright, but spread somewhat out-
ward, and project behind the body of the
barrow ; being there shaped into handles ;
for the purpose of moving it, by hand ; or
adjusting it, readily, to the required situation.
The hind wheels are fitted upon a square
axle, which is placed under the hind part of
the body of the implement ; and which turns
round with them, as that of the Highland,
and Cumberland cart. The fore wheel has a
drag chain adapted to it, to check the motion
of the carriaofc in descent. The three are
nearly of the same size and construction :
namely, each a circle of thick plank, about
two feet diameter, and bound with iron.
The width of the body of the barrow is three
feet, behmd, two feet six inches, before, and
VOL. I. c c four
3^6 DULVERTOK to TIVERTON.
four feet long. The depth of the sides, and
of the head and tail boards, twelve inches.
The headboard leans some\N'hat fonvard, over
the fore wheel ; which is rather smaller than
the hind ones, and turns on iron spindles, in-
serted in the part of the sides which project
before the body ot the barrow ; as in the
ordinary wheelbarrow. The draft is by com-
mon crane-neck staples, fixed on the outside
of the fore part of the implement, near the
pivots of the fore wheel *.
The fnel of these Li me works is \\'elch
culm, fetched, by land, from Watchet, six-
teen miles.
Draw the kilns, with heartshapcd shovels,
fonned of parallel bars, as the gridiron ; the
interspaces sutfcringthe ashes and small lime
to drop through ; thus cleaning the stone
lime, at an easy expencc of labor. The price
of stone lime, three shillings the hogshead ; —
of the ashes, two shillings, for the use of the
*" Bamptox barrow. This implement might be used
with great advantage, on many occasions ; especially iu
moving earth, or other heavy loose materials, a short dis-
tance. It is more manageable, by hand, than the "Slidfr
Butt" of West Devonshire, and carries a much greater
load. I traced it from Dulverton to Tiverton ; and saw
one near Taunton. I have not observed it, in any other
part of the Island.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE. 387
Mason! The hogshead being eight Win-
chester bushels.
Several orchard grounds are seen in the
neighbourhood of Bampton.
Ascend a long steep hill, and catch ano-
ther back view of Exmore, and of the finely
diversified environs of Bampton and Dul-
verton.
Reach a rough, improveable, red-soiled
height ; from w^hich Dartmore, for the first
time, is seen entering in the viev^.
The Exe still continues to wind among
high upland swells, v^ hich rise on either side
of it : the surface gently billowy ; the Downs
of the Southern Counties, or the Wolds of
Yorkshire, in a state of inclosure.
The Soil, Subsoil, and Road, red.
A dunged fallow : the first observed, in
this journey.
Field stacklcts common.
Pass between Beechen coppice-hedges.
The Vale op Exeter bursts open, with
fine effect. Also a broad view of the more
Eastern confines of Devonshire presents it-
self.
Now, a rich Vale view, of the Bradninch
quarter of the Vale of Exeter, is spread under
the eye.
c c 2 Descend,
38S DULVERTON to TIVERTON.
Descend, by a long broken steep, to Ti-
VERTOX.
Remarks. — The elevation of this passage
is very great, for a well soiled cultivated
District. The higher lands appear to be
nearly equal in elevation to the Exmore hills;
vet
■ The climature is forwarder than that of
tlie North coast, whose lands lie lower : the
harvest, here, is entirely finished.
The surface is billowy, in the strictest
sense : no regular ridge and valley. The river
and brooks seem to wind among the hills.
The soil, in general, is rich and produc-
tive, as that of Vale Districts ; except the
very summits of a few of the highest hills.
The subsoil, of the best lands, is invariably
a slatey rubble ; the under stratum, a loose
rock, broken into checkers or long-cube
pieces, of sizes according to the depth at
which they lie ; enlarging in size as the depth
encreases ; until the rock becomes close and
firm. The substance of \h\s rock, whether
entire or broken, appears to be similar to
that of Slate ; but \n ants its laminated tex-
ture.
NORTH DEVONSHIRE^ 389
The subsoil and the base of the lands of
South Moulton are equally insensible to the
marine acid.
FURTHER GENERAL REMARKS ON
NORTH DEVONSHIRE*.
THE Inhabitants, throughout, appear to
be civilized and intelligent ; the lower class
differing much, in these respects, from those
of the mining country.
Their fuel — wood and Welch coals.
Their employments — husbandry, and the
worsted manufactory.
The Farmers appear to be of the middle
and lower classes : mostly, plain, decent-
looking, w^orking Husbandmen, of twenty
to fifty or a hundred pounds a year. I saw
few, if any, which appeared to be of the
superior order of Farmers.
The woodlands are mostly in a state of
coppice. — Some timber ; but not much large
Ship timber observed ; except between Oke-
hampton and Torrington.
The
* For farmer Remarks, see page 375.
C C 3
390 GENERAL REMARKS.
The Orchard grounds of this District ap-
pear to be inconsiderable, compared with
those of the other Districts of Devonshire.
No Rabbit Warren fell under the eye ; in-
deed the lands, passed through, are in gene-
ral too good for that application.
To Apiaries, however, the goodness of the
lands cannot be an objection ; yet I obsen^ed
few, scarcely any, Bees, in this large tract
of country' !
The state of Husbandry-, from this cur-
sory view of it, appears to be superior to
that of South Devonshire ; and on a par with
that of the kingdom at large. To the ma-
nagement of Livestock, especially Horses,
Cattle, and Swine, Norrh Devonshire, it is
probable, has. for some length of time, paid
more than ordinarv attention.
pnorixcuLisMs
OP
WEST DEVONSHIRE.
A.
Apple drains, or Apple Drones : wasps
(the ordinary name).
ARRISHES: stubbles.
ARRISH MOWS: field stacklets. See p. 170.
B,
BALL : a common name of a field : as Hill Ball,
Broom Ball, &c.
BALLARD : a castrate ram.
BARKER : a rubber, or whetstone.
BARTON: a large farm. See page 105.
BEAT : tlie roots and soil subjected to the ope-
ration of '• burning Beat." — See page 145. .
BEATING AXE : see page 143.
BEEN : a w ith, withey, or band : a twisted twig.
BEESOM or BIZZOM (Spartium ^coparium) :
the Broom plant : hence a name of the sweep-
ing broom of the housewife.
BEVERAGE : water cider, or small cider.
BLIND NETrLE (Galeop-ds tetrahit) : wijii^
hemp.
BURN-BEATING. See page 142.
c c 4 BURROW :
39* PROVINCIALISMS OF
BURROW : a hillock, or heap ; as " Stone Bur-
rows" — " Beat Burrows :" hence, probably, Bar-
row — (Tumulus), and Borough (Burrow) a cor-
porate place.
BUSHEL, — of corn : two Winchester bushels.
BUSS : a grass calf. See page 343. N.
BUTT : a close-bodied cart ; as dung butt, or
wheel cart ; gurry butt, or sledge cart : ox butt;
horse butt.
BUTT LOAD : about six seams, or horse loads.
C.
CAT)T)E1j f Heracleum SphondijIllumJ : cow parsnip.
CESS or ZESS : a mow, in a barn.
CHEESE: the pile of pomage, in making cider,
CLAW-ILL : the foul, in the feet of cattle,
CLOUTED CREAM : cream raised by heat.
COB, or COBWALL: mudwall. See p. 6o.
COCKS: cockles.
CON VENTIONARY RENTS : the reserved rents
of life leases. See page 43. N.
COOM: a valley ; from thcCelticc7i';«. Seep. 12.N.
C'OTHE : the rot, in sheep.
COURTLAGE : farm yard.
COUSIN BETTY : a female changeling, real or
counterfeit, who goes about the counti*y to ex-
cite charity ; as she does in Yorkshire, — under
the same name !
CROOKS: a furniture of pack horses. Seep. 124.
CROW BAR, or BAR IRE: an iron crow.
CULVERS: pigeons.
CULVER HOUSE : pigeon house, or dove cot.
WEST DEVONSHIRE. 393
D.
DASHELS (Cardui) : thistles (the ordinary
name) .
DEADS : the subsoil, or under stratum. See
Meat Earth.
DOWSE : chaff (in common use).
DRAGS : large harrows.
To DRAW : to carry, or convey, hay or corn, on
a waggon or sledge : most proper. Doubtlessly,
from dray or draw — a sledge.
DRAY : a sledge, for light produce, as hay or straw,
Q. A corruption of Draw ? or its prototype ?
DRUDGE : a large team rake. See p. 128.
DURNS: door jambs.
E.
EARTH RIDGES : see page 158.
EEVER (Lolium p^renne) : raygrass ; from the
Celtic efer.
ETH — is in common use, as the termination of
the third person singular : hath, doth, are also
in ordinary use.
F.
FAIRIES (pronounced " Vairies") : weasels.
FERN WEB (Scarahceus HorticoJa ?) : a small
chaffer ; injurious to the apple whil^ very small.
FETTER LOCK : fetlock of a horse ; by corrup-
tion, perhaps, Foot lock ; which is a solecism.
FLAP DOCK (Digitalis purpureaj : Fox Glove.
FRENCH NUTS : walnuts *. FRITH:
* Not, perhaps, as having been imported from France;
but as being large. In like manner the large furze is here
termed
^# PROVINCIALISMS OF
FRITH: brushwood.
FUR-HEADS, or Foerow-hbad» : the borders,
or head lands, of a plowed field.
G.
GALE ; a castrate buU.
GREEX5IDE : grass, turf, gT>een sward.
GREY BIRD : the thrush ; no doubt, in contra-
clistinction to the Black bird ; both being birdi
of song, and nearly of the same size ; a simple,
apt distinction.
GURKY BLTT: dung sledge. See page 124.
H.
HACK : a one-ended mattock.
HAM TREES: hames.
HAM^V.ARDS : straw or rush collars, for horses.
H.\NDBEATIXG : seepage 143.
H.ANT)RE.APIXG : ordinar)- reaping ; contradis-
tinct from hev/ixg.
HAL^L ; or Ha,\l ; the hazel.
HAUL-TO : a three-tined dung drag.
To HE.AL : to cover ; as with slates.
HE.^LING or HELLING : the slate covering
of a roof; also tlie operation of slating: hence,
IIELLIER: a slater.
IIEPr : weight, pressure, or bearing : a common
term, in provincial ardiitecture.
HERBERY : a cottage garden ; a herb garden.
termed Freftch furze, in contradistinction to the duarf
furze; r to the usag-e of the Celtic language;
-Ahichv. _. , .-]v fpol:c-::. here. See page 31 1.
WEST DEVONSHIRE, 39^^
HEWING: amethod of cutting wheat. Seep.167.
HINE ; or Hind : bailiff, or farm steward.
HOG COLTS : yearling colts.
HOGS : yearling sheep.
HOLM (Ilex AquifoUum) : holly,
HOME SKREECII : the mistletoe thrush.
I.
INSIDE ; — is here used as a preposition : thus —
" one of the three bullocks, imide the gate:" —
a provincial idiom, which is, now (1804) creep-
ing into newspaper language ; either through
Devonshire editors, or French translators.
IRE: iron.
J.
JUNCATE, or Junket: coagulated milk ; eaten
in the undisturbed state of coagulation : with
sugar, spices, and clouted cream.
K.
KEER : the wild sorb, or mountain ash,
KEEZER : a sort of sieve.
KING GUTTER ; a main drain.
L.
LAND : freehold', in contradistinction to copyhold,
or life leasehold.
To LEAD : to carry " trusses," on horseback.
See page 166.
LEx\R or Leary : empty ; as an unloaded cart or
waggon.
LEAT : an artificial rill, rivulet, or brook. See
Vol. II. p. 160. LENT
396 PROVINCTALSxMS OF
LEXT ROSE (pi. LENT ii05Ex) : the Narcissus,
or Dattodil.
LINHAY: an open shed.
M.
MASTS, or Mess r Acorns.
MAWX ; a hamper.
MAZED : silly— idiotic.
MAZZARD ; or Wild Mazzard : the wild
cherry.
MEAT EARTH : the soil ; cultivated stratum j
or com mold. See Deads.
To MELL : to mix, as lime and earth.
^lESH : a gap, in a hedge.
MILT : a disease (a species of " rot") in sheep.
MOCK ; pomage, or ground fruit.
MORES : roots, whether of herbs or trees (the
ordinary name). Q. the etymon of moors P
MOW: a rick or stack. See Cess.
MOWKAY: stackyard.
MUX: dirt; Muxey, dirty.
N.
NECESSITY : a base kind of spirit. See p. 232.
NOT or KNOT ; polled, as sheep.
O.
OAK WEB (Scarahtem Melolontka) : the Chaf-
fer, or Maybug.
To ORDAIN : to order.
ORDAINED: intended (common).
OVERLAND FARM : a parcel of land without a
house to it.
WEST DEVONSHIRE; f^
OUTSIDE : here used as a preposition. See In-
side.
P.
PARK : a farm field, or close : so in Wales, and
in the Highlands of Scotland. Q. From parra^^
Welch and Erse ? wliich is used in the same
. sense.
PASSAGE : ferry ; the ordinary name.
PICKSEY ; or Pixy : a fairy : Pixies, fairies.
PIKE, PEEK, or PICK : a prong or hay fork,
Q. Analogous with war pike ?
PILM ; dust : Pilmy, dusty.
To PITCH : to fling sheaves upon a stack or mow,
See page 1/5.
PLANSHER : a chamber floor.
PLOW : a team of oxen.
PLUM : light and puffy, as some soils.
POOK : a cock of hay.
POITS : furniture for pack horses. See p. 125,.
POT WATER : water for household purposes.
POUND, or Cider Pound : a cider mill. See
page 223.
POUND HO L^SE: cider manufactory. Seep. 220,
QLULLETT : a croft, or grass yard.
R.
RAW CREAM : cream raised in the natural way.:
not '' scalded," or " clouted."
RED HAY : mowburnt hay ; in distinction to
'' green hay," or hay which has taken a moderate
2 heat ;
$9^ PROVINCIALISMS OB*
heat ; and to " vinny hay,'* or that which is
mouldy.
REED : unbruised straw, of wheat or rye.
RIX ; a rush : Rixen, rushes.
ROO: rough.
S.
SCALD CREAM: cream raised by heat; clouted
cream. See page 245.
SEAM : a horse load ; or three hundred-weights.
SHARE : crop, or cut, of meadow grass, or other
herbage ; probably a corruption of Shear.
SHEEDWOOD : rough poles of topwood.
SHIPPEX : an ox house.
SKIRTING: seepage 144.
SKOVES : reaps, shoves, grips, or bundles of
corn ; — unbound sheaves.
SLAPDASH : roughcast, or liquid coating of
buildings.
SLAT-AXE ; or Two-bill : a mattock, with a
short axe end.
SLIDE BUIT: duno: sledire. See gurry butt.
SMALL: low, as the water of a river, &c.
SOG ; a quagmire : Zoggy, wet, boggy.
SOUANT : fair, even, regular (a hackneyed word).
To SPADE : to pare, or breast plow.
SPARS : thatching rods, or twigs.
SPINE: turf, sod, sward.
SPIRE (Arundo): reed.
STAFF : a measure of nine feet ; half a customary
rod, percii, or pole.
Wfcst Devonshire: i^§
STEM : the handle of a fork.
STICKLE : steep, as a road; or rapid, as a stream.
STROLL : a narrow slip of land.
STROYL : couch, or other weeds ; or roots of
weeds : especially \\hat harrow up, or rake out
of the soil ; whether in the Held, or in the garden.
SULE, — pronounced " ZULE ;" a plow (the only
name). See page 1*26.
SURVEY: a sort of auction. Sec page 76.
T.
THEESE: this.
THICK, or Thicky (th as in thee) : that ; as
" thicky there." (A common expression.)
To TILL ; or Teel : to sow and harrow in the
seed ; to seminate.
TO : at; as "^^ when were you to Ph'mouth ?'*
Also with ; as " I mean to teel it to wheat." I
intend to sow it nith wheat.
TONGUE-TREE : the pole of an ox cart, or
wac:2:on.
TOR : a ragged pointed hill ; as " Brent Tor," —
" Roo-Tor,"— '' High-Tor."
TORMENTING : sub-plowing, or sub-hoing.
See page 287.
TRONE : trench or drain.
TRUSSES : bundles of corn or straw, to be " led"
on horseback. See page iOti.
TUCKER: fuller.
TUCKING MILL: fulling mill.
TURF: peat.
TWO-BILL. See Slat-axe. VAGS :
400 PROVINCIALISMS, &ci
V.
VAGS : turves, for fuel. Q. A corruption of
Flags ? See Pkov. of Norfolk.
VAT : the bed of the cider press.
To VELL. See page 144.
VEN\1L : a contraction of Fev and Field ; fuel
and pasturage. See page 326. N.
"VFTTY : apposite, suitable ; — opposed to Wish.
VINNY: mouldy.
VUR-HEADS : earth collected, for " melling"
witli lime ; see Fur-heads.
W.
WANTS: moles.
WTilTAKER : a species of quartz. Seep. 18.
\\TiITE WITCH : a good creature, which has
the power of counteracting the evil designs of
Black Witches. Such kind spirits formerly were
found in Yorkshire : and are still sjx)ken of,
there, by the same name !
WISH : inapt, bad, unfit, as *•' wish weather," —
or any *' wish thing," — <as a stone, or a piece of
timber, ill suited to the purpose for which it is
applied or required (another hackneyed epithet).
WRING: the cider press. Quere, has the juice
of the mock, or pomage, been formerly urwig
out of it ?
Y.
YOKE of OXEN : a pair of oxen.
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
S. Go&NtLL, Fruiter, Little Qaecn Sucet.