£^-' iJ^ \ \ "% THE COUNTRY DYER'S ASSISTANT. By ASA ELLIS, JuN. Brook^ielej (Massachusstts c) JPRINT£D »Y E. MERK.IAM (^ Co, For xaa Auxaox, DuTMCToy Ma>uacmu«stt« District, to wit^ XjE it remembered, That on the thirteentK day of November, in the twenty-thirdyearof the In- dependence of the United States of America, ASA ELLIS, J UN. of the faid diftrift, hath dcpofited in this Office, the title of a Book, the right whereof he claims as Author, in the words following, to wit. «*The country DYER'S ASSISTANT, by A. SA ELLIS, juN." In conformity to the Aft of the Congrefs of the United Slates, entitled " An A£l for the Encourage- ment of Learning, by fecuring the Copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of luch Copies, during the time therein mentioned." N. GOOD ALE, Clerk of the DiJlriS! of Majfachufctti DipiS*^ A true Copy oj Record. 1 Atte/if N.GooDALE, Clerkly JNTJiODUCaON. In fuch a country as Americas efpccially the northern ft ates, which abound in Sheep, the art of dying wool is of high importance. Wer« the art fuitably culti- vated, we fhould not only, by induftry, fat- isfy our curiofi'tv upon that raw material i but prevent an extenlivc and needlefs impor- tation ; and of confequence retain our mon- ey in our own country. The art of dying ia an ufeful branch of chymiHry. Its influ- ence on the fale of all ftuflPs ufed for furniture, orapparrel, has been felt by almoft all Eu- rope, who have been enriched by it, efpe- cially England. But few people, in America, eflimate th©- value of manufadlured woollens, of^heir own country. We too generally reforf, for our cloths, to the manufafturies of Europe. With regard to our own manuf'dure of croih, women and children coa-imonly die- Aa. ri INTRODUCTION. tate the colours to te imprefl upon them. But they frequently make an injudicious choice J the colour which they didate faces ; the coat is fpoiled, is thrown afide, or given to Jack the garden boy, and poor little Tomnpy muH have a. new one. True colours retain the complexion that is impreft on goods. Falfe ones, on wearing and being expofed to the fun and air, lofe all their original tints ; and of confequencc the goods are fo much injured, as to render them unfailable. The government of France were early fenfible of this, and fonrcd Ipecial regula- tions to improve the art of dying. They employed their moft able chymifts to infpeii the dyers, and to mark a dlflinflion between the true and the falfe dyes. Thofe whopro- feffcd the srt \\ere of confequence, diftin- guifhed by the epithets of the true and of the falfe dyers i The former were encouraged ; the latter were laid under particular re- ftraints. The deHgn of gover.nmenfj in thefe regulation?, was to improve the art and en- INTRODUCTION. vii rich thcif nation. By this wife interferince of authority, France realized both objedls. Too many dyers of this country, have pxe- cluded themfelves from improvement. Qon- fining themfvilves to incorrect Recipes, they have r.eglcded experiments, and other gen- eral means of infoi mation. A circumftantial detail %f experiments, with their various refults, is, in this fmall vol- ume, prefented to the country dyers. In the following work, I have endeavored to be plain and intelligible to all who can clean the copper, or turn the reel. Not only thofe who profefs the art, but private families may embrace the advantages of the following inftru6lions, and colour their own yam ofwooUen, worfled and thread, and fmall pieces of filk, as beautifully, as the dy- ers. This will fave families much expenfe, and dyers, in general, do not wifh to be bur- dcneJ, with fuch fmall commands,. This publication, prefented to the coun- try dyers, is the refult of twenty ye^rs prac- tice, clofe lludy, fair trials, unwearied pains and expenfe. viii, INTRODUCTION. The author fldtters himlclf that Itic {hall avoid the imputation of vanity, while he en- tertains a confiJence that ihe following in- ftru6lions, will be of public utility, and of fervice to many of his brcihren in the art of dying. Brookfidd) Dee, 1798. 9-4X >*»H«X»0«KXX»«a«SXX >&*if'K>4 THE CQUNTRY DYZKi m CHAP. II. Remarks en Dyejluffs. V_Jf Indigo there arc various quallicies. Many d\ers ofLcn fail in their judgment of the Indigo, they purchafe. The bed is im;^orted from the S;>anifh do- ininior-s. It is generally fine and fofcj it will f vim on the furface of water ; its col- our IS a beautiful purple j it is called fioar, . or floa'.on. But this Indiiio comes to us char: e J at lo h'n^ a price, that litt'e ufe is made of it, except in Saxon greens, Fiench Indigo is in junks, about an inch fquire. Ic is not {j foft ar-vi fine as the Spanifh j when broken, if it difcovers a fine purple, the qual- ity is good ; it may be ufed in Saxon green. Carolina Indigo wil': anfwer for almoft all colours obtained from indigo. I have ob- tained as good Saxon green, frofM this, as' UOiTi any other kind. If this Ind-go will VrOrs in the"6"il of vicricl and produce good ASSISTANT. 15 Saxon greens; it will work any way, m dy- ing cloths, and may jse pronounced compar- advely good. TbL^s^^ Vind of Ir.digo is brought from Carolina in junks about two inches fquare. You may find its quality, by bi-caking aju-^k, or by cutting or/crap- ing tlie edge of it with a knife. It fhould break eafily, jnd in all ihofe experiments it (hould give the colour of a bright, (hir- ing copperas purple, and vhen broken, ap- pears fome th'ng mouldy, as if the air hid paffed through it. That which puts en a dirty, fad, or dull colcur, is fit for ro u^e whatever. Thaf, which breaks hard and flinty, full of fmall, round, white fpecks, will arfwer no purpofe in dying, not even in- families urine dye. Of CochinsaU Cochineal is an infed cuki/ated in Sautd Annerica. It is (hipped to Spain ; from Spain to England ; whence we obtain it at ahigh^rice, on the account of accuirulatcd and heavy duties. It is a ftrong and good dyef\uff, or drug, and will return handfoma iS THE COUNTRY DYER'i profits to the dyer v,hen ufed in fcarlet?, pinks and crimfons. That which is good will appear plump and look as though alight fprinkling of flour had been cafl on it. If you preferve it dry, it may be kept any length t>f tim.e without damage. There is a kind cf Cochineal, which is wild and un- cultiva'.ed. It is very fmall and (hrivelled. However you may obtain a good colour from it s but it will require three tines the weight 5 ih'?, to anfwer the purpofe. Some Cochineal is^amaged by fait wa- ter. This appears of a dirty crimfon cafl: and is of no ufe whatever. 0/ Camii-cod, Cam^vood i?, wiih propriety, ranked a- rnong the beft of dyeflufiFs. Its colour is permanen: ; it will refift the influenie of the falc^ of the air and almoft all acids. But a few years fince, it was 6:11 brought to th^s country. It comes in the wood from fix inches to a foot through ; it fpUts fteely ; when good is heavy, and on opening it, the firft appearance is a >JiiFight, redifh orange ; ASSISTANT. fj but, in a few minutes being expofed to the air, it turns to a redikh brown colour ; its fmell is pungent. Of late is has been im- ported in cafiks, ground fine like flour. This is much more convenient fcr the dyer; for ihat which comes in the flick, mufl be chipped very fine, and being very clofe wood, it requires much boiling. That which is ground, if good, will ap- pear of a yellowifh red j if you wave it, a hoc dufl will rife «hich irritates the nofe and the glands of your thrcar. That which is mild and appears of a dark* ifh red has been leached and wiil produce no good colour. Of Logwoods Logwood is much ufed, by dyers, bodi in Europe and America. Its low price and the great variet) of fhades it produ-rcs, is one leafon why fomuch Logwood is ufed. But however various and beautiful the fhades, it firfl gives, the greater part of ihenn fcon ^ade and perilh. B2 •il THE COUNTRY DYER's The principal ufc of Logwood is in jet blacks, raven blacks or crow colour j alfo navy blues cannot beconvenietnly made without it. Logwood is imported in fticks of various dimenfions; if good will emit an agreeable flavour and be fwcet to the tafte. Of Bar-wood. Barwood is a dyeflufiF not much ufed In Annerica. Some, however have nniftaken it for Camwood, not having fufficient infor- mation to diftinguifh the one fronn the other ; being ignorant of i:s ufc, they have been dif- appointed in their colour. B'lrwood will produce chocolates and darkifh browns, finniiar to thofe impreffed \>y Hemlock bark. Barwood commonly comes in clefts. It is of a redilh brown j fpiits freely one way of the grain ; the other hard and rough. Of Greenwood. Greenwood comes in calks ground. It is but lately Greenwood was firfl' imported to this country. It is of a greenifh yellow i AbSISTANr. 19 it anfwcrs well, in all olives and Tandy drabs. However Sumach will produce the fame, and where one cannot be obtained, the other will anfwer. Of Brazil or Redwood Redwood aflFords, a fine colour, whether ufed alone, united with Logwood, or with various other ingredients. It will produce a variety of colours, by mixing it with Log- wood; luch as the violet, leloch and masy others of that call. Without Logwood it gives you the pink, claret &c. However, a fmall quantity ofNutgals would be of ferv ice in any of the dyes made of Redwood; pro- vided you widi to make them darker. But the colour, which Redwood produces is falfc and generally fades out. However, if ycu will take the trouble of nine days operation, you may obtain a very permanent colour. Redwood comes in fmall flicks; if good looks bright bearing a little on a yellowifh red; it fmells agreeably and chips freely. That which has been injured by fea-water, 5.« 'HIE COUNTRY DYERV or the weather, affords a dull red chip, antt is cohefive and clingy* Of Fvfiick. Fuftick is much vfed in this country. The colour it naturally produces is an orange ^ellov/. It is often employed in greens, ol- ives and drabs J if good, it arfAers a val- uable prrpofe. It fhould appear when fplit of a bright yellow, tinged with the orange colour. The wood is clofe ar.d hard j gener- ally hard to fplit and fu'l of fplinters. The root and that part of the wood which is knoty is the bed. It comes to us in large logs from fix inches to one foot and a half through ; if it be rotter, or otherwife inju- ried it will not anfv.er well for f.:xon greens ; however, it may be ennploytd in dark drab?» Of Turmerecb, TurmerecK Is a root, vhich dyes the fineft yellow. Without it, reith^er a good yellow^ gicen nor flraw colour can be imprefl upon fi'k?. Ic is ufed with AUum and a little Tartar. The different Ihadcs it produces oa ASSISTANT. SI filk, when mixed with other dyc-flufiFs, are too numerous to be defcribed in this fmall volume. Turmerech is i fmall roor, about two inches long, as big as the fmall fiogcr. If it be good, when broken, it will prcfent J you a dark yellow ; a ftrong flavour and it is very bitter to the taftc. Qf Sumach, Sumach is a crooked Ibrub, with fpread- ing branches ; it rifes about ten feet high and grows fpontaneoufly in many parts of this country. It is an excellent dye-wood, for drabs and fand colours j its impreflions are permanent. In would ^^e well if it were more employed by our country dyers, than it is at prefent. I:s berries, when ripe are of a dark red; they are acid to the tafle, and may be employed in almoil any dark colour. Sumach Ihould be collefted when it is full of fap. Be careful that the fap be tak- en off with a drawing-knife before you uffe i:; for there is a g'uttgnous balfam in the fap, which will adhere to cloth, and of con- fcquence it will be fpotteJ. aa THE COUNTRY DYER's The heart and piihs are the only parts to be ufed, as it refpeds the wood. It pre- fents you with the colour of a faint orangt. It will be good for years after it is cur, if the fap be taken off and the (licks are k-'pt dry. Of Nfgrogcr. Negrogcr is brought to us in flicks about fix inches through. The ftitks have a num- ber of concaves in them, which have the ap- pearance of art. This wood fp] its freely; difcovers a rediih orange colour, fomethin.g lik^ Cannv^ood ; the fmeil is not fharp and poignant: Its colour is a bright cinnamon. But it loon fades, and it will be of little uf* to djers, un^fs fome n^ethcd can Le found, to fix and retain the colour. Of Madder, Midder is a root of excellent quality. If it bs good and fuitably cnriployed, it will give a permarent colour. Of Madder there are twokirds the one called grape,, the other brown. The grape Madder, is the more beautiful and better tc^ ASSISTANT. sg -olour red ; the brown will anfwer in deep blues. Tnis comes cheaper than the grape. The grape Midder poffefTcs a yellowifli red cafl, to the frnell pungent ; to the tafte fweet. 7hi brown is much darker and not fo high flavoured. Midder fhould be kept clofe ; if it be ex- pofed tD the air, it will not produce fo bright, nor fo much colour. 0/ Burks J in general. Butternut is an ex:ellenc bark for dyers ; its colour is durable 3 it is ufcful in nnany of the browns and a-fo in black. The baik fliouM be ufed while it is green, i^dry it will not anfwera good purpofe. Ic will be the be:ter way for dyers to flock themfeli-es, in the fall with fo much of the wood, w:ch ihe bark on, as ihcy expecl to reed for the feafun. It fnou'd be kept un- der cover, and the bark Hiaved off .is they ufe it. Of Hemlock bark. Hemlock is a very good bark for. col our. ing. The rols fnould be taken ofF and «4 THE COUNTRY DYER'. whether green or dry ik is equally good, in browns, its colour is of a redilh call. OfTelloio Oak hark. This bark produces a ftrong colour and is good in olive browns and blacks. Wheth- er it be green or dry, it is equally good. It will not anfN^er in Saxcn greens. Its colour is of a much duller call than Fuftick or Turmera:h. Walnut bark or Hichory is foirething like yellow oak; its colour is rather brighter; both are durable, and eiiher of them will an- fwer the fame purpofe. Of White Oak hark. This bark is good in fand colours and drabs. The colour is permanent. A fmall quantity of this bark is fulEcient for your purpcfe. Take cflFall the top and rough parts of the bark j otherwife it will adhere to and injure your cloth. Of Alder hark. This bark is good and its impreHJions dur- &b>, i: Is ufefal in almoft allca:k colours ; ASSISTANT. jj it afllfts in filling up, and darkening the lh*des and leaves the colourbright and clear. White maple bark produces a Ante colour, which is beautiful ; but it foon fade? out. It niuft be ranked among the falfe dyes White birch bark produces much the fame eolour, only it is lighter, and like the maple will foon fade. Yellow birch, white afh ^d faffafras barks are good, in light browns/or afh co'ours ; if they bt properly ufed, the colours will be clear and beautiful, and they wii leave the cloth foft and pliable. Thefc barks aie profitable tofcountry dy- ers when they have not a fupply of isutg^ala. CHAP. lit. Recipe for the blue dye, or Indigo VaL z\S before obferved, the fiaeof your vat will be in proportion to ilie bufi- ncfs, b which you would employ it. lix »6 THE COUNTRY DYER's order to fet, or raife a new dye, put one pound and an half of Indigo into an iron kettle, which will contain two or three gallons i then fill your kettle with river, or pond wa- ter, walh the Indigo and pour off the water; then take a peftle and beat the Indigo fo fmall that a cannon ball will run upon it. Add a point of urine to the Indigo thus pre* pared for grinding; then place the kettle on your knees and let the ball run on the Indi- go till it be ground to a pafte ; obferve occa-, fiondly to fcrape down with a knife, the In- digo, which adheres to the fidesof the kettle, left you fhould wafle it. if your Indigo be too dry add a little more urine. It fhould be fufficiently moifl that the ball may roll freely ; but not fo thin as to flop over. This procefs of grind- ing fhould be continued about half a day. The Indigo being thus prepared nnay befit afide for the prefent. Your vat is, in the c€xt place, to be put in order. Firft, it fhould be about half full of boiling water ; then put in a pound and an half of good pot- tlh defolved in hot waterj to this add twelve ASSISTANT. zg quarts of wKcat bran j after fifting out all the Sower or kernel, fprinkle it into the vat with the hand and ftir the dye with the rake. This done, add twelve ounces of good grape Madder, then with the rake, mix it will with your dye. In the next place, take th« Indigo jou hare ground, nearly fill the ket- tle with warm water ; keep the ball rolling^ while the kettle is filling, and let the ball run until the Indigo is well united with th« water J then let it ftand and fettle for two or three minutes, then pour the water that i» on the Indigo, into the vat. Be careful that none of the fedaoient at the bottom of tht kettle is turned off wich the water j thij muft be ground again and more warm wa- ter added and poured ofF, in the manner juft defcribed, until the Indigo is nearly all defolved. Obferve, through all this procefs, your .▼at muft be clofely covered, excepting thf time that is necelTary to introduce the engrc- dients. When you have poured in all your Indigo, whi^h is the lall article, you will do well i5 THE COUNTRY DYER's CO flir up the dye, with the rake j then cov- 'cr your vat, if poffiblc to exclude the circu- lation of the air. Let your vat, thus cor fin- ed, remain for eight or nine hours be fore it be opened. Half a pail-fu'l of grounds from on old vat, that is in good order, might be ufefula* the firft article introduced into a new one. However, in fitting a nev vat, the e/eaing is the heft time, having all the materials, vc have mcnticriCd; introduced, by the hour of ten at night. Then your dye may reft till the morning ; when you fhould open the va: and piunge your rake from the top to the bottom of the dye. This flhould be done %vich adlivity end exertion. Bubbles will appear and bf repeating the plunges fix or feven times, if a thick blue froth rifes on the furfare of the dye which is called the head, continuing to float, and further, if it put on the appearance of a darkilTi green ; the dye may be pronounced in a good (late and is fi: for colouring. Perhaps, the proccfs of plunging muH be repea'.ed two or three times i but remember every time, after you ASSISTANT. t§ h*ve plunged your rake in the dve, to cover your vat clofely, and to let it reft for an hour, between thefe trials. If your dye becomes cool, it will not rife to a head, though it be good. ■ If the dye becomes cool it muft be heat •gain. This will retard bufinefs and caufe trouble. If the dye when firft opened, in the morning, appear of a pale blue cad, in- ftead of a dark green, an handful or two of Madder muft be fprinkled into the vat. The dye^in the morning 'after it is fer, fhould be fo warm that you cannot bear your hand in it longer than one minute. If the d)e appear of a pale indifferent colour, and a whitifh fcum rifes on the furface, it does not work and will n^colour. In this cafe, the dye muft be hea^' and a fmall portion of all its ingredients mvft be added j alfo a handful of ftone lime Ihould be put to warm water, and after fettling pour off theiime wa- ter, into the vat. Many, through want of better inftfuftion, will fn.quently look into the vat, to difcovcr C a 30 THE COUNTRY DYER's the ftatc of the dye. By thus expofjng it to the air it cools, and they will never bring it to a head till they are taught better. Of all dyes, the blue is the moft difficult and mun. be attended with the greateQ care. After the vat is fet and conaes to a head, it. may ftand fccurc till employed for dying cloth. When the cloth is ready for colour- ing, the d} e mufl be heat. If you have fixty yards of flannel, that is, fo many yards of cloth after it has been fcoured, or one quarter fulled; two pounds of Indigo ground with a ball according to our former direftion mud be put into the vat, together with the proportionable addi- tions, of Potafb, Madder and wheat bran. The d/e fhould be raifcd within three inches of the top of the vat. Let the vat be hot at night when you It^vt it : To preftrve the heat, en6lofc the vat with a num.ber ©f yards of cieifh, that it may be fuffi:lently warm in the morning. At that time,^ when you open it plun^iC your rake in the dye, then cover it c'ofely ; reft one hour then plunge again, repeat thefe op- •ASSISTANT. 31 eratlons two or three tiaies. If the dye be in a good ftate and vork well, there will be as nnany as ten or twelve quarts of fro:h or head, floating on the fu face of the dye,whofe colour will appear of a beautiful dark blue; at the fame time, the body of the dye will give you a dark green. This is th^-f roper ftateof the dye, for colouring j or when the dye cught to be employed. The cloth fhould be cleanfcd from all filih ; efpecially greafe; forgreafe will over- fet the dye even in its bcfl Hate. Aifo eve- ry thing ihtO'jld be prepared ,when th* li- quor is in rcadinefs. So foon as the vat is opened, the head or froth fhould be taken off" and put into, a ycir^l that wiii contain it, next the net fhould be let down, and the ftick, or crofs placed about one- inch b^low the furface of tSc dye, for the purpofe of hail- ing the cloth over it. In the next place, the cla h is to be taken from hot water, being, well dralpied, v, hich procefs mud be obferved every time of dip- ping; hall the cloth into the vat, beginning at ong end, keep it open, tiJ you have drawn j2 THE COUNTRY DYER.'* ifee whole piece into the dye. Perfc/erc ia hailing backwards and forv/ards from one end to the other for twenty minutes j at the fame time it fhould be entirely in the dye. After this procefs you fhould begin at one end of the cloth, v,ring it up and take it on the folding board, and fold it over until it becoxes blue and even j for if this procefs be neglected your goods will be fpotted. The cloth when firft taken cut of the yat will exhibit a green fhidej but being ex- pofed to the air, will become blue. Dip the cloth tv,icc; then take out the crofs and net ; put back the froth, or head, which was taken off. Stir your dye and plunge your rake in it : Then clofe tht vat for an hour. After that, proceed £s be- fore, till the colour you wilh is obtained. The cloth mud now pafs a lecond milling. In the mean time, it will be well to prepare your vat to receive the cloth for the laft time. Put four or five po>>nds of woad, v. ell pow- dered, into the vat. > Thi^ t^ill fave Indigo and render the colour briohter. The woad fliould be put into th« vat once, in two or ASSISTANT. 8« three times of colouring, that is after the dye has done work, or when the dyer has done ufing it for that time. After this the dye ftould be kept clofc till it is re-heat fur another colouring. The d)er mufl be careful in hot weather lO heat the vat. once in a 'nonth, or fix weeks to pre- ferve it. He mufl alio take ofFthe maggoty which V ill appear on the vat above the fur- face of the dye. When the liquor beconaes thick and glut- tenous, by ufe, the dye muft be boiled the fcum taken off and the dye returned to the vat. Ac the ficne time add a little Lime- water, tocbrify the dye and fettle the grounds^ for if the fcdanneut rife the colour will not be good. The dyer fliould never dip his goods till the grounc's are well fettled. N. B. After colouring deep blues, the dyer mav ufe his vat to colour various fhades of the fky blu?, which will anfwer a better purpfife now when his dye is week. 34 THE COUNTRY DYZ^'t Of the Indigo vat with urine. Take one pound of Indigo, beat it fmall, then add to it one quart of fharp vinegar \ being put in:© a (rnill kettle, let them fim- mer over a flow fire, for twenty- four hours. As the vinegar evaporates add more. If tht Indigo be not all defolved by this procefs, it rnuft br. taked off and ground in a mortar, or v.'ith a csr.nnn ball, in the fame liquor i occafionaiiy adding, a little urine ; put in two ounces of Madder, mix it well with a flick. , In the next place put this compofition, in- to a c^ik or vat of urine, which will contain fifiecn gallons, mix all well together. Stir yo'jr tub or vat v;ich a (lick, nnorning and cren-'r.g. for eighti>!f ;en days, till the fur- face of the liquor, being agitated appear green producing a froth like the common blue var. Itv this flare your dye is fit (oi colouring. Thefe vats are very convenient for the dying of wool and.woo^e]S|arn. Fam- ilies may employ thfm at their pftafure, and Riake them large or fmall, at the fame time AiSSlStANT. 35 attending to the fuitable proportioras of Indi* go and Madder, as above prefcribed. When the dye becomes thick and glut-» tcnous, the whole fliould be boiled and the fcunn taken off. Obferving thefe dlreflions, your dye will laft many years. N. B. The vat mud not be crowded ; two or three pounds of cloth or yarn is fufficicnt for one colouring in a vat which will con- fain a barrel. CHAP IV. For Navy Blue, ^^"^ i HE Navy blue 'u s. cheap «nd good colour j its tint is beautiful and it leaves cloth foft and pliable. The Indiga-* blue is expenfive, and its cp|pur is obtained with nnuch care and trouble. The former being nearly ss handfun^.e^. will of confequence be much more ufsd.. 36 THE COUNTRY DYER's To produce this colour, the copper ©r chaldron muft be cleanfed and then filled v»ith puie water. For twenty yards cf fulled, or thick c'oth put into the copper one pound and an half of good green Copperas ; lei th« water boil and take off the fcum that rifcs. This being done, your cloth wet in warm wa- ter is to be dipped in the dye for twenty mi!> ures: then cool it over the folding board; afier this> dip ycur cloth again, for two hours, then cool again and rinfe your cloth well in a running lltcann. Naw empty the copper and fill it again with clean water. " At this time you nruft have about fix pounds of good Logwood, well boiled, by ittelf. Bring the waer in your copper to boil; then add about one paii-full of the LogwotaJ dye to the copper, ftir it well togeihcr, and then dip theclo-h about half an hour ; ihen cool, following this proc- efs till the co'our dengr.cd is cbtained, This is a ve.y dark blue. Kinfc your cloih well, in order for drefling. This colour will bear well the heat of the ASSISTANT. prefs. Woolen yarn, for coverlets, flocking', &c, may,in this wiy be coloured toadvantage. Thin cloths are beautifully coloured in this way. C H A P. V. For Raven blacky or Crow colour ^ J. HE copper is to be fiilcdj with clean water and brought to boil. For twenty yards of fulled cloch, put in one pound and an half of good Roman virrioh After it be well defolved, dip the cloth for half, an hour ; then cool it — after '.his dip for two hours ; cool it again and rinfe ir. In the next place the copper muft be emptied and filled again with clean water. Put in half a buiht'l of Sumach berries, if they can be obtained i a paiiful of Alder bark and one pound of Madder B )il th^^m -.veil in the copper. Then dip your cloth half an hour —then cool it. After tfiis add from tinne to D 38 THE COUNTRY DYER's time th« liquor of Logwood, as in the navy blue till the colour is obraired. " Now rinfe your cloth for drefTing. Be Ciiefol and not heat your prefs too hot j if you doit will change the colour and you will find it diffi- cuk, ever, to reftorc it. N. B. Cloth of this and almoft all colours' n)uft be kept open, while running on the reel. If this be neglected, the cloth will be ipot» ted and unfit for ufe. Many dyer| let iheir cloth lie, in the cop- per, and then^ cannot account "svhy the co!- our is uneven; but if -they would attend to their dye ,thcy would avoid reproach, and their cuftorticis would find no reafon of cox* plaint. blacks are cafily obtained by this procefs. Old goods wit! eafily receive this colour though the dye be not fo ilrong as what we hare Drefcribcd for new cloth. Silk alfo will receive it eafilyvbutthe dyt mud be very ftrong. Any pcrfon may colour black\by_ fnnaU quantities in this way withojit-arny gttkt ex- aflnefs, as to the ingredients cnriploved, and wuh little frouble. 40 THE COUNTRY DYER's N. B. Navy blue, jet black and Raven black, or Crow colours, and deep Indigo blues, fhould be well fcoured in the mill in a weak fuds i otherwife they will crock and b^ troublefome. C H A P, VI. Recipe /or light and dark Cinnamon, Londm hrou'ns, and Britijh muds, xjLLL thele are obtained from the fanne pool, or dye. For tvtenty yards of fulled cloth j when the copper is filled, with pure wa^er, and brought to boil, the d>er muft put in three pounds of^ood Camwood ; Jet it boil in the copper fifteen minutes; then dip your cloth, for two hours. Keep it open and running over the reel ; then take up the clpth for cooling. Add, as before, three pounds of Camwood,, and dip your cloth again according^o the ASSISTANT. 41 fame prefcription. Then the li :ht Cinna- rr.on is obtained and the cloch may be rinicd for dr effing. For the next procer^, ad.:! to ynur d\c a fmall handful of Ro nan vitr.ol— :wo tab-'e fpooi fuh of oil of vitriol and one of good copperas. Let them fimmcr tvell in the top- per. T..ke ofFthe fcum, or filth that riles onthed)e; ftir it veil ; then dip ) our cloth that is coloured light Cinnannon. FoUovv this for half an hour; fUfrffg the reel brilkly, that the colour may he even ; by this thfd.uk Cinnamon is obtained. From the dark Cinnarnon, t heaver «^iU ©btain a London brown, by ^d#|ig'Copp?ra$ to his dye and dipping h s cloth, fro'm t-me to tiire till it acquires the Piade he.cho vf-s. B.'itifli mud is ftill arke^j tr orLogwoec! . dve, united with a lif.tleCoppejn ; i - : dip-y^ur Lordon brown, from time to tiine. till you ob.ain ihcil-^adc defigned. Thofc various colours, obtainc-l by con- forming to the foregoing iVefcris^iion are D 2 41 THE COUNTRY DYER's ftron: and good. Thofe of them, that are djik, will neither fade, nor fpot. The ftrong- eft acids 'jvill not move theiri. N. B In thcfe colou's, excepting the light Cinnamon, the oil of vitriol muft never be negleiled. Bv this ingredient the colours are rendered bright and clear. In this dye, you may colour an almoft numberlefs variety of fhades, which exift be- tween the lighc Cinnamon and the, almod, bla.k, B.itifli mud. After finiftiing the high colour?, a litr'e bark of slnnoft any k'nd may be added to the dye, which will then give you good browns on coarfe cloths for common ufe. This if worthy the dyers obfcrvance. Obferve in genera^, that you never put in the oil of virrio', until the gr(,)und cf the col- our is laid in the do h; for if the dyer add ever fj much CamwooJ after the oil is in, it will be entirely loft. ASSISTANT. 43 CHAP. VII. For Saxon Gnen. X A KE three ounces of good In« digo, pound or levigate it fo fmall, as to run it through a fine fieve. Put your Indigo, thus prepared, into a foiall vefTel, gradually add one pound of the oil of vi roil ftirring it for one hour. It may then fland for a day, excepting, tA^o or three times, in this period, it fhou d be worked in the fame manner by ftirri'ng it. Affcr this procefsit is fit Lr ufe. In this ftare, the compound may be pre- fervcd for a year, bting put into a glafs bot- tle and coi, fined with a (lopper of Bcefwax. It is the bc'ter way,.ro prepare:* hum' er of pounds of the oil, with their proportions of Indigo J obferving to Ihake, or flir the en- gradients v^cU fo-ethf^;^ when you wifh to pnur off for ufc. Thick cloth mutl: not be d}ed till it is napped, fhorne and all the nub« picked off. 44 THE COUNTRY DYER'« For twency y.uds of fulled cloih, twfntjr five yards of t aizt, or thirty yards of thin cloth i take ten pounds of ^o.A Fuftck, chipped fi .e a-^d put it irto f e copper fill- ed witn clean wat cr. Biin^ the water almoft to boil. Apj)ly this heat for eight or nine hours. Then take out the chips, and lay them where they will dry ; for they may be afterwirds profitably cmplojed in common drab col- ours. Now have the dvc hot arddip your cloth for h.i'f an hour. Then take it up fo*- cooling. Add four pounds of Al;um to the dye and take off the filtb that rifes. Now dip again for ;in h.-ur ; then tak- up the cloth, bring thedye to boii, and put in fcven, or eight fpoonf'.ds of t^he compouni of oil of vitriol and Indigo. L ec the «.^ ye boil a few minutes, ftir it wirli : then fiip the clo(h half an hotyr, turn the reel briflclv anJ k<:ep the cl6:h 6- fen. Now take it up locool. Li this man.- rer re ea*: dipp'iH:: and cooling till the colour is obcdiiied. Then riafc and dry h for dref- fing. ASSISTANT. 45 Now without the addition of any more dyeflufF; ren or twelve yards may be coloured in the fame dye, of a beautiful pea green, by dipping two or three times. The doth alfo will retain the colour tolerably well. 'Bo tile Green, Two methods are employed^ to obtain this colour. Bv the firft the cloth is brought to a dark Saxon green j in the next place the procels is the fame that is followed in navy blue. But the colour is not bright when obtain- ed, and is attended with more expence and trouble than the fecond method, which ,w©.c ihall recommend. The prefcription, for twenty yards of full- ed cloth. Run or dip it in vitriol water, in the fame manner, as for Ravpn black; thea jjafe the cloth and empty the copper. In Hlie next place take fix pounds of good Fuf- tick chips, and four pounds of Logwood chips J boil them well in the copper for four or ^e hours. Then dip the 'clcth f^r ha1?^n hour j then cool it, and thus proceed ^5 THE COUNTRY DYER's till the colour is obtained. After this rinHs and dry it for d efTing. N. B. If iheje be two draf:s, or packs of clo'.h to colour J ral;e our part of the liquor, that t'le d';t' mzy fqually colour each pack, by occafionall; adding the liquor again as ycu need it. CHAP VKI. Fcr Saxon Blue* B 'Y one fimple prcrefs, th's col- our is obtaired. All the luenfils nuUbe perfeflly c'ean j the water in the copper be brought: to boil. The-^ put'in a fmall quantity oft he ccm- j:oiincl made vfoi' of vitriol snd Indigo ;' after this IcT it boil for u few minutes ; the cloth bei'g well wet with warm water, is ihen to be dipped for h\!f an hour ; then take it np tcr coo'. Follow this pioccis of dipping ASSISTANT. 47 2nd cooling until you obtain the colour you dtfirc. "N. B. The reel muft be turned brifkly and the cloth kept open as it runs. CHAP. IX. For Snuff Brown, JL AKE twenty yards of fulled cloth, run it in a Copperas liquor, the fame as for Navy blue, Rinfe the cloth, empty the copper. Next fill it with clean wa'er, put in ten pounds of FuOick chips and one buihel of Butternut bark ; boil them for four or five hours-; then dip the cloth for l]ialf an hour i take it up to ccol, and *foUow the procefs of dipping and cooling, till you ob- tain the colour dtfigncd. Hcinlock bark will anfwer, ai a fubllitutc, for Butternut ; but its*colou'r i,i' not fi^;^ood, noi fo durable. 4* . THE COUNTRY DYER'S N. B. In this colour, it is the better way to have the liquor of Fuftick, and of Butter- nut, boiled fcparately, and put into tubs to be employed as occafun requires. If the d)edo not bear fufficiently upon the yellow, add to it the liquor of Fuflick ; if the red be wanting, employ the liquor of Butternut, By this meiho.^, the dyer may induce the colour to meet hs fancy. Having obtained the firflobjcd of the d; e, if you wifli to colour common browns, add to it the barks of yellow oak and hemlock ; boil them well in the dye and then yOu may obtain a variety of Ihades on the brown. Remember, alfo, that your cloth muft. be well Copperafed before you run it in the dye. K. B. When you have obtained the fnuff brown, by adding a lictle of the decoflion of Logwood the fame dye by further dipping will produce a London fmoak. P. S. By running cloth, which has eirher of thefe colours, in a weak folution of Pearl- aflj, will give it more vf a red caft» ASSISTANT. 49 CHAP. X. For Scarlet, X^HISisftyledthe kingof col- ours. But a few ye.ir finre, the fcarlec was firft produced from the dye:- of this country. An opinion generally circulated, that the waters of Anierica would not anfwer in this dye ; and alfo that a veffd of filver, or pure block-tin was neccffary to contain the fcarlc: dye. However, experience has taugh: us, that thefe opinions are erroneous and ground- lefs. The wcters of this country are as pure and foft, as ihofe of Europe. And a brafs, or copper caldron, if well cleanfed, will leave the colour as clean and bright as any veifer whatever. ^ Brafs is to be prefered, fince it is kept bright, with lefs trouble. To produce a neat fcarlet upon cloths, the)' muO: be milled, napped and fliorne, fit for the prefs, before they be dyed ; as dreiT- ; E ^ THE COUNTRY DYER's ing will tarnifli the colour ; befide, this method will fave much dyeftuff, which comes highly charged. After the cloth is well dreHfd for the dye, for feven pounds of cloth, take one pound of /^qua/Griis duplex and one pound of wa- ter i put them in a glafs veflTel j add one ounce of SalamoniaCt gradually, having it pounded fine, add half an ounce of Salniii^e, in the fame manntr, fhake them together, till the falts are defolved j then add to th« compound, three ounces of granulated tin j introduce it gradually, till it is all in. It will be well to fet, or mix it in the morning, then it will be ready for ufe, the next m.orn- ing. So foon as the tin is principally defolv- ed, make the veffei clofe, with a glafs or Beefwax ftopper. This is then called the ccmpofuicnfcr fcarlet. The cloih being well c'ean fed and wer, in order for "dying, fill the copper with pure water ; put in three pounds of wheat bran, enclofed in a bag, made for that ufe and tjed clofcly. Let the water boil j then take out (he bag of bran, Add to the d^c one ounce ASSISTANT. ^i and an \\S\(of creamtariar ; well pulvcrifed. Let it boil a few minutes ; then add two ounces of Cochineal. Boil fifteen minutes ; then introduce one third of the compofition, already prepared, and the dye will change from a deep, to a blood red. Now dip the cloth for an h«;ir j keep the cloth fpread, and let it run brifkly on the reel. Take it up to cool -, add to the dye as before and dip for an hour j take up and cool again ; add, dip and cool the third time, in the fame mannci". Now put into the dye, two table fpoonfuls of Turmerech, well lev- igated J boil a few minutes ; dip the cloth half an hour which will be the fourth and laft dipp'ng ; then take up and rinfe it well for drying and preffing. You will obferve, that the procefs, as wc have dated it,~ requires fix ounces of Cochine- al, fi^e ounces o( creamiartaVy one ounce of SalamoniaCy hilf an ounce of" Soln'.tre^ or Saltp''.lrry three ounces o^ granulaied t'n, to- gether with the Turmerech mentiorcd in tha pic cription. Thefe will colour feven pounds of cloth, or rrh^r goods in proportion, a ^t THE COUNTRY DY£R's beautiful fcailct j equal to any that is i«i« ported. P. S. Giftiri-vin is a tr.ftile by itfelf > ic comes in various forms and fizei, from half an ounce, to half a pound in weight. It gives a brij^^ht appearance. To granuUte this tin is to reduce ic Into fmall particles, or grains, which is dofiC, in the following manner. Take the grain-tin aYid melt it dowr, over a hot fire; then hold i't, about two {^cZy above a piiilfijl of clean v/ater, and b; fliaking the hand, gradually diop it into the water. Th£n take ic out and dry It for ufe. N. B In colouring, be careful to pour none of the fedanrienr, of the compcfition in- to the dye. Take off all the filch that rifcs en the fuiface, previous to each dipping. Enter your goods when the dye is boiling. Af er the cloth is well rinfed, lay the nap with a clean brufh ; then center. Afcer the cloth is dried, take out all fpecks, in the clorh, with tweezers. Prcfs in clean papers, not ASSISTANT, ft hot ; for the heat of the prefs tarniflies ih« Colour, or makes it loo red. Barry Red, This co'our is obtained in the faine meth- od as rhef arler, excepting ihefej it req i«C5 but one half of the cOiV-pofitir-n f r fcarict, and one ounce and an h'lf of Cothineal for every pound of cloth, togeiher wirh t\yo ounces of Alunn. The cloth you will dip three times as in f:arlet, and put in one third of the Alum earh tine previous to dipping; then rinfe for drying and preffing. The barry is but lictle employed, exrept on fome tine cloths for tafty perfons. This colour refle£ls a fhining lulUe j it is teauti- ful, permanent and very exper:five. Orange colour, Th's is red and yellov united. Various ti:iethods procure it j and it wi'l he bright, or dull ac.:ording to ths ingredients employ- ed to obtain ic. The bed and bri^h^cfl: orange is raKcdihy firft colouring the cloth fcarjet, and then dip* E 2 14 THE COUNTRY DYER'j ping it in a yellow dye made of Termerech and Fuflick. Alfo it may be obtained by colouring the cloth crimfon and then yellow ; or firrt dip- ping in Redwood, or a madder dye, and af- terwards in the yellow dye. " Howerer, this colour, on woolens, is noE much ufcd in this country. CHAP. XI. For Crimfon. J- HIS is the natural colour, which Co'hineal gives to woolens when boil- ed in Alun and Tartar. Recife. Fill the copper with clean wa- ter i for twenty pounds of fulled cloth, put into the copper two pound and an half of Alum } three fourths of a poiind of cream- taitar j and four quarts cf wheat bran, having; th« Bower well fifted fiO'.r. it. Lee ihefe boil in the copper till the Alum and ASSISTANT. 5i Tartar be defolved. Then dip the cloth for an hour ; take it up to cool ; then dip three hours. In this dipping, for the greater part of the time theclotk may lie in the liquor; be- ing careful, however, to keep it undtr the furface of the dye, that it may equally re- ceive the fahs. When the cloth is taken up cool it well ; then fold it, and cover it, for two or three days j in the mean time ob- ferveto fold it over once or twice in a day. After this rinfe your cloth thoroughly in a ftream of water. When this is done the cloth will give you the colour of a dark cream, and is prepared to recieve the Cochineal, Now empty il-ic copper and fupply it with frelh water. When it begins to boil, put in half an ounce of Cochineal and half an ounce of creamtartar pulverifed to every poundofcloth. Let it boil for twenty minutes -, then dip the c'oth foi one ho-jr ; take up, and cool. Addas much more of the .Cochineal, to the dye, as you put in the fir ft time. Proceed to dip and cool as before, for two or three times ; now the pores of the wool will rc^- 56- THE COUNTRY DYER's ceive the Cochineal, which v,\\\ beftowon the cloth a beautiful crimfon, that is permar^iat. Now rinfe and d'-y for prtfllng. N, B. All cloth defigned to be coloured, fho )ld be napped, (home and the nubs cut off, bcfoic it is dyed. CHAP. x:i. For Madder rtd, 1 HE pr(=paration for this dye is fimilar to that t.f crimfon. For ore p^und of cloih, put in the copper four ouncts of Aiiim, ( ne ounce ofied larrir, and ih« fame qr.antity of ^^heut brai¥ ns yoj employ in criir fi.>n. Observe the ian':e proccfs in di|'p:ng aud cool'ng. Ft r the next proofs emp'v, and fill )Our copper a a''n. When she water h.^s arquin- cd thesvarrrth tiat vou can jut\ endure youT hard in it ; f r c -rv pound of cioih/pncin half a pound ^f the bell Madder. Be care- ASSISTANT. 57 ful to mix it well in the copper, before you introduce the cloih. Then dip for an hour. Obierve, at the fame time, that the dye muft not have more than half the heat, which would be neceflary to boil it. If the dye be too hot. It will tarnilli the colour. Having dipped, for one houff, take up the cloth for cooling. ^ Then dip, fhortdips two or three times, that the colour may be equal and the ftrength of the Madder received. N. B. It is a good'method to foak the Madder, feveral hours in four beer, or four bran water, befo:e it is employed in. the dye. Midder-red is a beautiful and peniianen: colour. CHAP. Xllf. Fcr Pink cokur^ HIS isafairtred. The bed are obtained in the fcarlet dye. The other method to obtain it is in the crimfon, or 4t THE COUNTRY DYER'» madder dye ; but this does not aftbrd lo good, or fo bright a colour. Pinks are generally ufcd for womenj (kirts j and fometinnes for bed coverings. Thedyer may colour good pinks in the fame liquor, whence he has obtained his fcarler, before he has put in the Termerech. Termerech tarnifhes the pink. Add, to the dye, about half an ounce of Cochineal, to every pound of clothe Dip two h^urs, then cool and rinfc forpitfiing. There will be a fufficient quanriry of f^ir- its left in the fcarlct dye, after you have col- oured twenty pounds ofcloth, to give a good pink colour to fcven or eig'it pounds more. If you colour pinl;s in a crirn'oi, or mad- der dye, proportion your dyefiuff according to the flTade required. This method of colouring piaks \>ill be a faring to the dyer If you have pinks to colour and no fear- let, pro.eed in the fame way, as. f r fcarlet ; obierving, at the fame time, that j>inks will not require more thin one thi-d of the dye- ftuff, which ycu put in for full fcarlet. ASSISTANT. 59' If the dyer wi(h to colour Liloch ; take the cloth after it is dyed fcarlet pink, and run it in a weak liquor of Logwood adding to it, one» or two table fpoanfuls of the oil of vitri- ol, for fix or feven yards of cloth. Let it boil, for a few minutes after the oil is in before you dip the cloth. N. B. By adding to, or diminifhing the ftrength of thedyeftufF, you may produce a variety of fiiadcs, in colouring pink and Le- loch. CHAP. XIV. For Purple. In the f?r9: ages of the world, this was cfteeme.i the richcftcf all colours. Purple was the co';our of garments that deiig- nated men, who ucre diftirguifhtd, by their ci il and religious (lations. That beaut'N.il colour is obtaiHcd ficm a fnc li fiili, rcff^mblirg the Oyiler. It is 6o THE COUNTRY DYER's taken on the coaft of Paleilinc. Without any other ingredient, this fiili, ca'led thc- purple, gives a bright and lading colour to al] goods that have received Its imprcffion. But this dyelluEF comes fo highly charged, that it has never been much employed in any part of Europe. The Grecians fou»d a fubftiture, for this purple in a plant, or was what they called Amcrzts. But ni:liher of thefe n-ethods will ever be attended in this part of the world, as both are expenfive, For the purples now obtained, you muft make dye for crimfcn and bring your c:cth to that colour according to the nnethod prefcrib- ed for that dye. After this dip your cloth in the blue vat until it has obtained the purple fhade, which you choofe to imprefs. The colour will be bright and permanenr. N. B.. For purple, dip the cloth ifi the In- digo vat when ihe dye is weak. It is nnuch the better method, to nap well, and fhear the cloth, before it is coloured. When dyed, rinfe it thoroughly. You "frould do well to fcour it through the mill. ASSISTANT. fii in a weak fuds, after it is rinfed ; that the cl<^th may be cleanfcd fr( m thedifagreeable faicll, which it takci from the blue vat. CHAP. XV. Clarci frem Redwood^ Ti HIS colour is but little ufed at the prefent diy, because it foon fades. Almoll ay acid liquor will fpot ir. Cam- w o I ^ ill produce, almoft as bright a clar- et, as Redwood, and it§ colour is durable. Prrfcription fcr claret frjm Redwood. The cloth muH be well prepared in Alum and red Tartar. The copper being fiiled v?ith clean uater, fort^'enty 3 ards of fulled clot4i, pii' In th ce pounds of Alum and half a pound ofred Tarfar. Lei ihem boil, till veil dcTo.vcd. Then dp 'he coh Ur half an hour ; eoj; i', therj dip three hours : \(- tcr tti,s,cooi and rinfe acIi tne cloth in run- F €i THE COUNTRY DYER's ring water. Now emp^y the copper and fi I agun with water. Put in nifte pouods of Redwood and two pounds of Lof^wood, chipped very fi. e. B^il them three or four hours ; then dip the cloth f r half an hour; then darken the fhade with Verdegrife. The Verdegrife muft be ground with urine to a pafte, of the fame confiftency as the ci! and Irdigo for green. The d)er will add about one tea-fpoonful of the Verdegrife, thus pre- pared, to the dye, mixing it we 1 with rhc liquor; then d'p h^lf an hour; then cooJ. Thus proceed till the colour dcfired is ob- tained. If [he d\«jr wifh to colour Redwood red, he muft omit the LOj:wood and Verdej^rife, and add a little more Redwood. Some dyers darken the fhade with Cop- peras ; but it will not give fo bright a col- our as Verdegrife. But, .s has been obferv- ed. this colour foon fades. However, upon fome goods, Rtsdwood will beflcw a good colour, by oblerving the folli.wing dirtdion. Prepare your goods, as before prefcribed, and put them into a brafs ASSISTANT. 6t kettle, with the Redwood. Let them foak for nine o^^tcn davs. By this mtthod you may obtain a good red, on yarn, wlii h vnll bear wafliing in foip lud, which will render the colour darker and brighrer. . In this way Wwmen may c()!our their own varn j but cloth will not receive the colour equally. mmmmmtmmmmmmmtomui CHAP. XVI. Buff] cr cream cclour. A HIS is but little ufcd, except in men's foiaU clothes. To produce this col- our, for twenty yards of fulled cloth, fill the coppt-r with pure v/ater j all the thing's em- ployed rnuO: be peifedly clean; bring tlie water almoft to boil; then put intone quart of clear and ftrong Fudiclc liquor; mix /t wdl with the water ; then dip the cloth an hour; keep it open, and run it brifkly over the reel. When the cloth is taken up, the ^ THE COUNTRY DYER'« dyer wiU hardly perceive it has changed from the colour of the wooi. Mow add to thecl>c about half a la' le- fpoonful of .lear oil vitriol j then dip for half an hour ; cool rhe cloth, and if ii he not fwfficicrncly dark add a litde njore of the oil and dip again; perhaps tepea^ed dipping* may be required. However, thi^ colour ii api tnhf too dark rather than light. When ih^ colour i» ob- ttti: eJ, ihedyer uuH: pu. Hriift a"e lio"* uid rinfe the Juth innrediately, left it coli^ft dirt and fpots. This colour is bcautiiul, pciuianent and will endure wafhing. CHAP. xvir. For' til' fh? '.'olourdefirei is o'nca>aed. N, B Iccrea'e ttie qi-.a-tity of Copperas every I'me you dip uivi cloth. Rinfe well for dri-ijji>g. 'iyi!s cij'our \s iuciinedto darken. P.S. B\ adding a lit- leye low oakjHemlocky or Butternut bark to the d}e, and boiling it 68 THE COUNTRY DYER's well, a cheap and good brown colour may be produced, which many pcoplepiefer for com. men ufe. CHAP XIX. For Sage Green » Jl his colour is obtained with cafe and little experfe. Grou'-d your cloh in the hufks or fhells of the walnut, nnd darken itwuhihs; com- pound of oil vitriol and Indigo^ '■ Far twenty vards of fulled cloth, ; ui into the copper of clean water, one pailful of walnut (hells. Boil them well for three hours J •headiptwoci three times fo'- ground- ing. After thj-, add one tabie-^pornfui of the CO npouTid ; flirthedyej :hei dip lialf an hour; til^c up :^nd cool; thus proceed from time to time till thecoiour meets your ASSISTANT. €9 This green, rcfen bling the Sage leaf, when, in falhi )n, appears beautiful. Ifh:: CO np )an J K lefc cur, aid red Tar- tar empi^iyed, in iieu of 1, after beirg dip- ped in ihe p:round work j the cloth wi'l pre- fent you afawn colour vshi.h is duiajle. Ted Green* When you h^'-e Cf. Inured Saxon green8>. be'n / carcf r ih;Ut e d\e is we^k ; cloth be- ing well wcc, '^Ith warm v^at; 1 is introduced to that dye, to coloi r peu green. Run it in the dse two, or three ti>iiei for half an hour, each time. This is a faint colour snd mud be itteided with care to picferve it from fpotiing. CHAP. XX. Pearl cclour,. X EARL is a light brown beir- ing on the b:uc. It appears to have pafltd. fB THE COUNTRY DYER'i ba- a foTiU chaa ;e from the, :v^hite. No coiCur i- mi-rc Gclicate ; noae more diiScult to Q- lain. D-crs in gene-a', give th: Pr.iH too c^ark a ihi le. Giejt actr-rxion muft be tilcwed, to fix the p, per ti ■:, wbkh dtfctvjes the naifie of Pear! "Cilour. Ali uunfiKv muil be as clean, as though you were to handle fine HoJand cloth wiih- ouc Juileying it. Thr c .pper being filled, with water, it fnould boii J then put in o e tea-fpoo^ful of Nutgsls, veil pounded and fiftcd ; boil them fifceej minutes. Twenty yards of fulled cloth, being well wet, in warm water, now dip for ha'fan hour • take up and cool. Kow add to the dye the fannc quariity of Nurgalsj then dip and cool af' before. Put in the fame quanLiry of Xurgals; then dip and cool £s before. Now add to the dye a piece of Copperas the fize of a fnow-bird's egg, apiece of Alum the fize of a walnut, and half a tea-fpoonful of the compound, oil vitriol and Indigo j let them boil Hiring ihem well together; then ASSISTANT. 7» dio IS before; cool, and thus prowever, the dver, if he pleafe may pre- pare h s tloth, in Coppe as, the fame, as in Navy b ue, and then run ii in the decodion above meniioned. CHAP. XXII. Olive Green, 1 N this colour, ^ha yel'ow Oia.^c prfdoT'i nates, andis conredfd v\ith a tin. of the light b'ue. To o"^ ain this co'o-ir, bi ng \ht c^oh i.p to a ful! yellow j ihin add th" rompound of oil and Jn ligo, in frail qu niii.ic-s Dpthecloth a nunr ber of tiines, unii! its colo T meet your fsn'y. Thi!)x:oluUi is bright, aud is not fo much ASSISTANT. 74 difpofed to fade as fome others ; neither is it fo durable as lome. Sea Green. By various methods, this colour lis ob ain- ed. Its appearance is dull and heavy. How- ever, it is like many others, fo.iietitnes fadi- ionable. The beftmethod ofpro:uring a Tea green; is to make the cloth a Saxon green j not fo full of yellow and bearing more on the blue^ than a bright green. Rinfe your cloth j make a new liquor of Butternut or Hem* lock bark ; dip the cloth and darken the Ihade with Copewfs. ' Dip the cloth two or three times j if it do not darken to your wi(h, add a fmall quantity of Logwood liq- uor i then dip till it faits. Novv cool and rinfe for dreffinsr. Fawn colour. This is a lightifli fandy brown j being very permanent, it is called one of the priiri*. tive colours. The better way, to produce it is by obierving the following recipe. Fur G 74 THE COUNtRY DYER's twenty yards of fulled cfoth, take two pail- fuls of Walnut fhel)^, or hulks, put them into the copper with clean water. Let thenti boil thoroUj^hly ; then dip two or three times. Now add four ounces of crude, or red Tartar j dip again and the colour will be good and durable, obtained with eale and little ex- pen fe. N. B. The (hells of the walnuts fhould be gathered and fccured imxediately after the the nut is ripe. CHAP. XXIII. Tellow, A HIS is frequently needed for baize j and fometrriies to mix wiih other dye- ftuff" ; fuch as greens and fnuff" browns and in a number of other (hades, which, without yellow, could not be obtained j hence this colour is of imponance to all dyers. ASSISTANT. 75^ Ternncrcch produces the beft yellow. For tv enty yards of fulled cloth, put into the cop- per, two pounds of Alum and four ounces of creann tartar ; let them be well diflblvedj then boil the dye and dip the cloth, two or three times, for an hour each tinne, cool ai often as you dip. Now rinfe the cloth, cnnp- ty the copper, and fill with clean water. When the water boi^s, having the Tcrmer- cch well pounded, add four or five table- fpoonfuls of it to the dye j boil a few min- -utes, then dip the do h half an hour ; cool, and thus proceed until the colour meets your fancy. This colour is bright and lively. By this nnethod, you rr.ay obtain an innu- merable variety of fhades, that may exifl; be- tween the ftraw colour and the full yellow. However, it is expenfive, and is not much employed on cloths in America, N. B. The dyer will remember the light- er the fliade ^is, which he means to give, in the fame proportion, he muft decreafc th« quantity of /llum and Tartar, ^5 THE COUNTRY DYER's Ir lieu of Termcrech, yellow may be col- oured with Fuftirk liquor. Add, according to the fliade you choofc to produce. How- ever, this colour is not bright, but looki dull ; yet it will make good greens andoth* er colours, on the brown (hade. C H A P. XXIV. Olive Brown, T HIS colour is cafily obtained. Fi 9", Copperas thecloth as in Navy Hlue, only heic for twenty yiirds of cloth, add to the Cppperasliquor half a pound cf Roman vitriol. Empty and make a nevv liquor, of I^^^'k. y..d ten pounds j dip the cloth two, Oi lies till the colour rifcs to your pkafur... ' fn rinfe and dry fordrefling... " ' ■ willjappeap dark,, bright ^and ASSISTANT. 77 Ohftrvations» Having attempted to render the prefcrip- tions for the colours, in the previous work, as plain and intelligible as poffib!c i ihe dy- er may eafily follow them. If he will attend to the nature of various dyellufFs and ob- ftf /e how they agree, or difagree, when mix- ed ; he will, in^conformity to the foregcing RecipeSy foon be able to fix on any colour or pattern that may be prefented to him. Though there be but feven primative col- ours in nature, yet an almoft ip.finice variety of fhades may be attained from them. Too many to enumerate, in fo fmall a volume. To avoid repetitions, in the {refcriptions^ given, for various dyes, mark this as a (land- ing rule : If the dye boil when you are ready to enter the cloth, check it with two or three quarts of cold water^ and flir the liquor well before dipping. This fhould always be obferved, except in fcarlet, barry, crimfon and pinks, ihcfc G 2 jB THE COUNTRY DYER'j fhould be entered, whca the dye is boiling and the dye kept as hot as pofTible while dip- ing. CHAP. XXV. On whitening woolen, cloth, jTjL close, convenient room i* ncccflary for this purpofe. It fliculd be prepared with window-lhutters, which may be thrown open, when neceffary. A fuffi- cient quantity of tenterhooks fliould be plac- ed Jm the joifts to hold up the cloth while whitening The cloth being clean and moid,, not fo wet as to drip, the worknnan hangs it, by the felvage, on the hooks; beginning at one end and proceeding to the other, keep- ing it fprcad, that one part may not fold on another. For twenty yards of cloth take two pounds of fulphur^ grofsly beaten, put it into three, or four iron pans or kettles, placed in different pirts of the room j fprinklc afhes ASSISTANT, 7i over the fulphur, and fei it on fire j fhut the room clofe for ten hours. Then, going the outfide, throw open the window-fhutters, to let the fulpherous vapour blow off. For any perfon to enter fuch a room before it is ven- tuhtcd, he would be in danger of fuffocation. By this proceedure, woolen cloth may be rendered as white as fine India fhirting. Stockings, or hofe and other fmall things may be whitened under a long tub. CHAP. XXVI. On mhing colours three by three. u " J3lUE, red and yellow, pro- '* du:c ruddy olives, greenifh greys and other "colours of the fame kind. •*When, the mixture contains blue it is ** ufual to begin with that colour. ''Blue, red and fawn, produce from the "darkeft to the iighteft. «•• . THE COUNTRY DYER's " Blue, red and black prod«ce a numerous "variety of all fhades. •'* Blue, yellow and fawn produce greens "and olives of all kinds. " Blue, yellow and black produce all dark "greens to a black. " Blue, fawn and black produce olives and " greeniOi greys. Red, yellow and fawn ■ " produce orange and gold colour, burnt " cinnamon and tobacco ccloursof all kinds, " Red, yellow and black produce a "colour, which refembles a withered leaf. " Laftly from yellow fawn and black, you ** obtain hair colour, nut brown &c. " Four of thefe colours nriay be mixed to- " gether, and lometimes five j but this is not "ufual. *' It is needlefs ro enlarge upon this fub- " jeft. I fhall only obferve, that forty difFer- " ent ftiades may be obtained from each coU "our •* The defign of this enumeration is only "to give a general idea of the ingredients, " that are piopcr, for ths produf^ion uf coJ- " ours compofed of fevcral oihers.'* ASSISTANT. CHAP. XXVII. Fqt dying and drejjtng Fujiian, Cotton and Linen. 1 HE cloth dcfigned for Fuf- tian, whether waled, or plain. The waled Fuftian is fo woven, that the filling: li-s on that fide of the cloth defigned for the. face. The p ain, 'iS woven, hke common cloih* The filling mud be cotton, beaten up clofely, that it may bear napping. Your cioih fhould be napped, before it is coloured, that the dye nn.ay penetrate into the pores of the fluff. Cotton and linen cloth is hard to be col- oured. Tc» nap Fuflian, you fiiould have a ftool to nap over ; one that will Hand firmly ; it may be twenty inches wide, covered, and a littl« erowning in the middle, with a defign for the Teafels to take hold on the cotton to raife a nap. St THE COUNTRY DYER'i Hook, or make f.ft the clo h, to :he edge of the ftool i oppofite to the fide on which the workman (la'^ds. Dr^w the doth fo that it may n9t rinklc, wh^le napping ; if it fhould, Teafcis taking fliung h Id, might, tear and injure the cloih. The cloih bring, thus prepa ed, begin at one end j having two hands of Teafcls, draw one after tht* oth- er, on ihe Cioth, :lil a thick, rap is raiTed. Thus proceed until you have ^nifhed the piece. Cut off, with fmall Ihears, aU nubs that appear. They ought D©t to be cxtrafled, with Tweazers, for.thf^y will leave holes in the clcth. If Teafels cannot be obtained, the nap mud be raifed wiih clothiers ^'tf^^/. Their teeth mud be fliarpened on a griodftoce. However, this is an uncomfortable way to nap Fullian. Teafcls are nn'uch cheaper and better. Every clothier ought to cultiyate. them, v^hich hemay do, with little trouble. Fuftian may be napped and fhorn, till it will appear as beautiful as broad-cloth j but ASSISTANT. 83 it \vill be expenfive to the clothier, and un- profitable to the owner. For f-venty yards of waled Fuftian, or twenty-five of plain well napped and ready for the dye ; fill the copper with clean wa- ter, put in one pound and an half of Copper- as and one pound of Ro nan vitriol j boil them together and take off the filth that lif- es. Then dip ; keep the cloth open on the reel j run it brifkly for one hour j at the fame ti ne give as mujh heat to your dye as pofli- ble. Now take up to cool j dip again, in the fame liquor, for two hours j then take up, cool and ri-fe the cloth wel . Empty the copper a.-'d fill again with water ; put in tigh* pounds of good Fuftick, chipped t'mall; boil it four or five hours; then dip an hour ; takt up and cool ; dip and 00*^1 again, and fo proceed till the colour rife to the pattern you chojfe. Rinfe well, and after the cloch is dry, raifc the nap with jacks and give a light preffing. This method is to be prcfered, as it leaves the' cofonr bright and clear. 84 THE COUNTRY DYER'S If thedycr wifli to give a ligh-er fhade, he muft employ lefs of the Copperas and vitriol, in proportion. Experience will foon teach him the proportion of rhefe, to fix on the fhadewhich hedcfignsto produce* There are other methods ufed, to ob:ain this colour. Some, firft run the cloth in Fuftick liquor and raife the luftre, with Ro- man vieriol ; and^ then darken with Copper- as i all which is done in .the fame pool or dye. This v/ill give* a gocd colour j but it is hard to darken and, when obtained, it is not fo bright, nor fo durable as the one firfl mentioned. Seme raife the colour with Alum; but this is-the pooreft method of any that is em- ployed to obtain it. The Alum leaves the cloth harlli and brittle j befide, it is nearly impcfible to darken the colour. Dark Olive greeny en litien and cotton. Sometime?, onFi:ftians, this colour is fafh- ionable. Prepare the cloth as before ; for twenty yards of waled, or twerty-five of plain cloth; put in the copper, two pounds ASSISTANT. 8S of Roman vitrio! j let it boil ; then dip two, or three hours ; keep the liquor hot while dipping. Then ccol and ritUe clean; niake a new pool, with ei.ht pounds of Fuftick and four pounds of Logwood. B )il them weh together; then dip andcool, from time to time, till the colour nieet your fancy. Now rinfc and drefs as for other Fiaflian. CHAP. XXVIII. Blue dye for Limn and Cotton. X O obtain this colour, in the cold water var, the dyer fhould have two vat«, each one containing about two barrels. They fhould be abou^ three feet high, that the fkeins, when hnr\^ in the va , may noc difturS the grounds at the bo'tom. There fhould be two vat<;, in order when one is weak, th-^ yarn may in the other be brought up tQ a full colour ; and alfo when H $6 THE COUNTRY DYER'« one in ftrergth is employed, the other may be repleniftied with dycftuff. To raife, or fev a new vat, it fhculd be about two thirds full of c'ean water j it (hou!d fland in the fun or in feme warm corner-ofa room. Put in four quarts of good m.ilt and as much wheat bran j from bochj all the flower fhouUj be fifted. Siir the dye once or twice a day, for four or five da^s. Next put in fix pounds of Potafii defolved in warm water, and one pound of good Midderi flir the dye well. Take two pound of well chofcn Ldigo, grind it well and turn it in after ihe fame manner as in the woollen vat. '" again, that'the 'ingredients nnay be • nirc . Now it may "ftand, exrc|.'i":n^ it fl uu'd be ft r red -ORce in twelve hours. If the weavher be w.-rnn, pe'-haps, the dye will begin to work in fo.ittei^, or twenty days. "You will k-ow whrn thi^ takes p ace froai the liquor, ivhich ^'iU givevou a dark green appearanrr, and a I'tde froth or head will rife; on the furface of the d)e. ASSISTANT. »y Now the dye (hould be plunged, with a rake, once a day, till ic is in a proper (late for dying. If the dye will work', in five or fix weeks, ic will do well, and lafl fcveral years, if no diity yarn, or greafy goods be entered. When the dye is in a proper ftatc fpv coU curing, ic will appear of a dark green, and a deep blue froth or head, will continue to float on the top of the liquor. Without thefe tokens, it will not colour. Wheii the dye beconnes weak, replenifli it with Indigo, Potafii and Madder, in the quantities before prefcribed. N. B. When the dye is replenifhed, a quart of malt and as much wheat bran mufl: be added to keep it alive. The dye will be fit for colouring again in four or five days. The yarn, in order for dipping, Ihould be clean fed from all filih ; the fkeins Ihould be let down fingly, with a (lick run througk them, which will reA on the top of the vat. By this the dyermay (hift the yarn, which muft be ftri6lly attended, in order that the fkeins may equally receive the colour. S8 THE COUNTRY DYER'» When the yarn is as dark as you wifh, tak«- it upi wring, rinfc and dry it. Perhaps, if the dye be father weak, the yarn will require repeated dippings. There are many nnethod*, by which blue is obtained on cotton and linen j but the a- bove, in general, rs mod approved. The Second procefs to obtain blue on Linen and Cotton, The dyer may take barrels, or veflels of a larger, or fmaller fize, in proportion to the goods, which he expects to colour. How- eyer, vats made for the purpofe arc prefer- able. See that the cafks areperfe6Wy clean. If the dye be fet in a barrel calk, grind with a ball one pound and an half of good Indigo to a pafte; while grinding, moiftcn it with fomelinne-waterand a folution of Pot- alh which vi'c fhall foon notice. Defolve three pounds of Potafli, in^ iron kettle with threequarts of water. Steap one pound and an half of quick lime in three or four quarts of hot water, and when it is well ASSISTANT. g^ fettled, turn off the water into the Potafli j , then pour the Indigo into this compound of Potafli and Time, after the fame manner as is prefcribed for the woollen blue vat. Let thefe boil together, moderately, till the In- digo rifes to the' top of the liquor which may be known, by rapping the bottom of the kettle with a fmall flick j if it fcund hollow the d}e is fufncienily united. Now flack as much more lime ; add fix or eight quarts of warm water and three pounds of Copperas. When the Copperas is well de- folvtd, turn it into the vat or cafk, which is to bepreviouQy about hall Hiled with warm Water ; then [urn ia the compound of Indi- go &c, fiorn the kettle. S:ir the whole toj. getherj then wuh warm water fi;l che vat, within two inches of the top. Afier this, ftir it with a (lick, three or four times in a day till it is fit for ufe. Perhaps it will come to maturity in incday ; however, this much depends on the warmth, or coohiefs of the weather. The yarn in this vat, is to be wcWx'si after the fame manner, as was prefcribed in the H 2 ^o . THE COUNTRY DYER's Other dye. When in the dye, the yarn ftiould appear of a dark gieen j and when expofcd to the air change to a blue. Thefc vats produce a large head., or blue froth which floats on the top of the liquor. This dye cannot beieplenifheds when the flrcngth is exhauited, it mufl; be thrown out. It would be convenient to have two vats. If one dye be weak, bej^in to colour in that, and fi .•fh in the o;her, which fhouid be ftroni£. By theie accomirodations, the dy- er niiy colour when he pleafes. This is an expeditious way, becaufe the dye is directly brought to work ; and it produces good col- ours. But the firil methoi is prefer.ble ; becaufc by timely replenifhing if, you i-iave a conft^nt dye. N. B. If this dye become fain% you rnuft rake it, and let it fect'e, befoie you dip again ; for the kdairxnts wisl injure tho colour. Ihird frocefs to ohtabi hlu^, on Cotton and Linen, "juith Lojwjod, Prepare the yarn with Roman vitriol.. Fc:^ ASSISTANTi ^f every pound of yarn ; put into a kettle of water c so ounces of the. vitriol i let it de- folvei then fprend in the fkeins of yarn; let them boil, for two hours j then take out and rinfe. Make a liquor of Logwood. For every pound of yarn, employ four ounces of Logwood, well chipped and boiled in a ket- tle by irfelf ; then turn it into the kettle, wheie the yarri is to be colouied, after taking out all the chips. The yarn may boil in this liquor and je dipped half an hour. This procefs of dipping may be repeated, two, or three times, till the colour rifes to year fancy. Then take up, rinfe and fcour it, in a weak fuds, to prevent its being brittle. The dye prj,duces a bright blue 5 but it foon languifhes. Ic will anfver if it be not expofedtoihe fun and air. Being a cheap colour, families may dye this blue, and for fome ufes it may be f^rviceable, to them. N. B. For every pound of yarn, make tw9 gallons of liquor. 99 THE COUNTRY DYER'j CHAP. XXIX. fo d)t thread purple^ olive hrcwn and Hack, X URrLEj for one pound of thread, boi' five ounces of Logwood, in an Jron vefiel, for three, or four hours. After boil/ng, add two ounces of Alum to the liq- uor, after it is defolved put in the thread ; let fimmertwocr three hours ; then take up arid fcour it in a weak fuds. Olive Bro'jon i for one pound of ihread, put into a keit'c, with tw^ gallons of water, half a pound of Fuf^ickweli chipped ; boil it three or four hours j then put in haT an ounce of Reman vitriol and one ounce of Copperas ; let them delolve ; then introduce the thread J let it flli-im^r, one hour; then take up. If it be not dark enough, add a little Kiore Copperas to the dye and dip a- gain. After it is coloured and rinfed, boil the thread in water, with a handful of wheat bran to render it fofc and pliable. ASSISTANT. 91 Black ; for one pourores in thefe nvo dyes. N. B The dyer will make it a (landing rule to ha s all his thread of fl:jx, or cotton, v-dl clean "d, previous to dying. That W'hi.h is mad of fl x, (hould beboikd in a white lye, mad^ of af?.es and water, boiled together. Cotton mud be c}^^r(td^ by a ftron^ foai' fuds. Wicho'.it being well clean- fed, thefe ihreads will never reg^lV'e any per- manent colour. CHAP. XXXI. For dying Silk. HE high price given for la* bo'Jr, in this counti\, ha«, and p'.'fh:ps will for many ytirs, p'-eveii anv extcnfi/e culti- vation and manufaclorJcs of fiik. ^ THE COUNTRY DYER'« Europe and Alia, being fall of people, who muft be employed, on low wages, will, und.;ubtedly, manufadure the principle part of the fiiks, that may be ufedin this country, for a es to come. Old griods, with a fnfiall quantity, in fkeins of new fik, are 'he moll we lliali have tJ col- our at prcfent. Hence it will be necdlefg long to detain you, on this branch cf d^ing. Only a few prelcriptions, that nnay be ufe- ful, will be given. Si k fti-ffj- nnay be coloured in t'TC woollen dycsj by giving then the ground-work, be» for ethc vvoo. en cloth h put in,.ai;d by dark- ening them after the c'oth is coloured. Silk requires a Itronger d.e than wool. It is the better way to m.ke a dye, by itle'f, for fik. It fliould be llrained throu^^h a fine fieve; for fhips ^^arks, Sec. aiII be very injurious to thr fik, efj ecially to flceins, from ^hich it is aimed impoffible to iVparate them. Dyes made of i npalpaUe powders nred not to be drained j they will rinfc off in the ftreanis. ASSISTANT, Of Black on Silk. For one pound of filk, take four quarts of yellow cak bark j Loll It well for three hours. There fhouTd be two gallons of liquor after the d_,e is drained j to this de- coftion, add two ounces of Nutgalis well pounded, and four of Copperas. Let th<=m boil half aa hour ; then check, v/ith a pint of cold water. Put in the filk, and keep the dye about one degree below boiling heat ; flir the fi;k in the dye, for five, or fix hoursj that it may equally imbibe the colour ; thsn take up, cool, rinfc and dry it in the fiiade. The filk will then prefent you the colour of the dard olive. For the next procefs, nnake a decodionof a pound of good Logwood, and. dip the fiik until it receives the colour you defire. The fliadc the dyer may afcertain, hy drying a corner, or a few threads, afcer th« colour is received. Now rinfe, wring but moderately, dry in the (bade. Of whatever colour, fi)ks muft never be dryed in {he fun. After all thefe, dip, onct- more, in a folu- tion of loaf fugar, v/ith two quans of watcr^ 9» THE COUNTRY DVER'a brought halfway to boiling heat ; thefl dry, and the filk will prcfent you a Ihining jet black, whofe .clour is durable. Cirtnamon. For one pound of filk, boil half a pound of Camwood, that is grount', with two gal- lons of wa'cr, tbr fifteen minutes, in a br.fs, or pewter velfe', then dip, and carefully at- tend, that the fiik may e' arcels, from the fine, down to the coarfe. Tne bell wool grows from the kidneys, over the flioulders , to the neck of the flieep. This fhould be employed for the fined cloth. The remainder Hiould be divided for the ufe- to which the forter defmns it. ASSISTANT, 115 Coarfe wool fhould be wrought into blanks ets. By thus afforting wool there will be no wafte; but by mixing fine and coarfe wool, in the fame piece, t'.ie cloth will never appear well after drefling, nor do the fervice it would have performed, had the wool been well for ted. . AH the coarfe ends fhould be cut offend caft away. If they be fpun and woven in- to cloth, the colour you imprefsupon it will be neither clear nor even 5 for coarfe and fine wool, will not equally receive any colour. After w%ol is forred, it Ihould be careful« ly pulled apart and have all the nubs and motes taken out. Then put it into a bafkef, . or f3me clean place, where no dirt or lint czn reach it j for thefe are very injurious to wool. After the wool is well picked, greafe it with hogs-lard, or foft fat. Put one pound of greafe to feven of wool j mix them well until the wool is foft and pliable. After it has received the greafe, it fhould be broken with good cards and laid in bats, until all th« wool is broken, which is defigned for iifi THE COUNfRY DYEK** one piece of cloth. Then lay the ba' sin a pile; put a board on them, and preffing on ihe beard, with he hird, or kr.ee, gradually draw out the bats v\iih the hand,, until ihe/ are all drcwn from ur.der the board. Being thus feparated, by a fccond picking, the bats v^iil be well m'xed. Now divide the wool into two equal parcels, ce for the chain, or warp, the other for the woaf, ot failing. Now let one perfon fpin the woo^ that the yarn may be equally wrought. The fil- ling fhould be fpun viththc wheel crofs bandi- ed. Give the warp no nfioretwj**, than v^ill weave without fretting. The woaf thould be twiftcd nearly as hard as the ^varp. After the yarn is well cleanfed, prepare ic for the loom. The weaver fl^iould (ley the piece as high, as it will be ir to fpring freely in the loom. Employ as mu.hfl 'inj, as ran be conveniently itit;oduced. Beat clofel> as you weave. Avoid old harnefs ;. becaufe ic greatly injures the cloihi Leave a good fel-- vage and trim carefully as you weave. When cloth is made iaconformity to ihtfe dire^Uoinr,. there is no danger of irs working. ASSISTANT itj badly in the mill ; it v ill not cockle j but drefs neatly. If a nurnber of hands be employed in fpin- ing a piece, you may generally expedt that the cloth will cockle in the mill j and fuch cloth can never be dreffed, to appear, de- cently. Some people proceeding in this manner with their wool, complain of the clothier bo* caufe their cloth docs not anfwer their expeft- ation; and after fufficient reafons have beea given for the failure, as have juft been men- tioned, they ftill determine to be ignorant,. *'in fpight of experience." The truth lies here; if wool be not properly forted, and fuitably manufa6tured by the cards, wheel, and loom ; it is impoflibl« f6r the clothier to drefs it even decently. All cloths, that are not to be milled, (hould be well mixed in the wool, before fpinning; for wool, in confequence of the reafons be- fore fuggefted, will not equally receive the colour ; the cloth will be ftriped, if not well mixed in the wool. ii8 THE COUNTRY DYER's Famiiies may manufacture ihe r own Ker- feynnires neatly, by making a good choice of their wool. 'Ihe fineft is i-eceflTary for ihofc cloihs. The yarn fhouM be fpun about eighty kr.ots t) ihe pound. This, and all Other yarn fhou d be even. If it be unequa!, fome placts being lar^^e and others rma;l, ao cloth mace of iuch yarn will appear, even decertly. Kerfeymire fhould be fleyed with three threads m a reed, ard fprung with fourtread- cls, one half at a fpring. It muft be equal- ly wa'cd on both fides. Next, it mufl be fulled lighdy, and well drefTed. The finer the yarn, the neater the clo;h. I have dreflVd cloth, the yarn of which was fpun one hundred and ten knots from the pound; hovever, we feldom have wool that will admit of running lo fmall. It is the belter way, never to draw a thread from wool, Imaller than it will have Arcngth to fup;-ort when under the a6lion of the loam. Weol wouldrun finer and Imooth- er, if our farmers would be more attentive to their fteep. They fhould never be yarded ASSISTANT. 119 with cattle ; they (hould be fed in a rack, fo conftruaed, that the feed and chafF from the hay may not fall into the v\ool. Thefe cflentially injure it. Sheep ftiouid be\ept in good fl.fli, that the wool mav be lively. Af er the fhecp are wafhed they fhould notbe fh )r e, In lefs than fix or fevendays. Thc-reafon, why you fhould wait fo long afier wafhi.g, is that the a - irr.al oil mav penet atethe pocrs of the wool. This oil prtTerves the wool alive and ktfcps it foft and pliable Af^ter the vool h taken off, it fhould be liid in fore drv, clean place. Wnen it is drv, (lore and preferve it from all dull and ti:h. If Farmers would obferve tnefedirei^lions, they wou d ro:^n find their axount for their extra trouble Never di'pofe of your heft laibs ; but preferve them for cheir good wool. z2« THE COUNTRY DYER'« CHAP. XXXVII. fc know when the cloth is well drejfei. W HEN cloth has received a good drefTing, and is finifh^d in a fuitable manner, it will be fofc and firm. Bciag- fliorne even, it will prefent you a fhort, thick nap, which lies fmooth, in one reguiar direc- tion, "^y drawing your hand, with the in- clinations of the nap, it will feel fleek and fmooth ; to move it in oppofidon, the nap will feel rough and prickley. If the cloth will bear this infpeflion, you may conclude that the workman h-as done his duty. 1 he workmanihip on cloth, that is defigncd f )r h^mdrome drtfTiig, may be difcovcrcd by the eye. If it be prelFed ftifF, ii moniach,OBe drachm Saltpetre, a tcs-lpoonfui ASSISTANT. 2(9 (. of fcrmcrech and half a pound of wheat bran with three gallons of water and fix drachms Cream-tartan Crimfon. Three ounce of Alum, one ounce and one drachm of Cochineal, half a pound of wheat bran and three gallons of water with fix. jirachms Cream-tartar. Purple, Firft make it a crimfon then dip in a good urine vat. Tellow, Three ounces of Alum, three gallons of water ; then c^ip in Termcrcch liquor till the (hade you defign is obtained. Thefe are the principle dyes, which peo- ple in common will, at prefent, wifh to re- duce to fo fmall a quantity. You muft proceed with them according to the dire6lions given on the large fcale. From the forego- ing ii^f/^^i you find that a fmall quantity of dye, requires a larger proportion of dycftufF. K.I1 ftki. iS* THE COUNTRY DYER's Of thoje cdourii which will en^^ur; ?;;.'. Thefe areas, fo. ow£, Deep >..i us fhades, Navy bJ'Ji, black, Cinnamon, London brown, Snuff brown, Crimron, Mad- der red, Pink, Purple, Claret v»ith Redwot)d, drabs and afli. Thefe obfervations-are inferr- ed, in order to accommodate people, who would wifh to mix any of ihefe colours, in the wool, for cloth that, may pafs through the mill. The method for fr sparing felts for trial. ** This little manoeuvre is evry fimple, ** but very ufcful, as by it you will be enn- " bled to judge, in a quarter of an hour, what *' the ftufF will be after it is maufidlured, ** and fLven entirely drefled. For this pur- "pofe you' take wool of different colours, " and having accurately weighed each, the ^^ mixture is made with the fingers in what "proportions ycu thir.k proper; but the ** whole in fuch a fmiali quantity, that the *' mixture when finifhed, is no bigger thasthe • fjzeofyoiir hand. It is thcnmoiflened w'lh . ASSISTANT. J 13: ^' a little oil, and carded with fmall cards till *^ the colours are blended together and per« *' fedly well mixed j you then take this " woo!, which is exceedingly loofe, and in " th« fquare (iiape of the cards j you fold *' this in fo'jr, and prefs it lightly between ^' the^hands. It is then dipped in a flrong " fo'ution of foap in cold water ; it is again ** taken out and fqueezed hard between the *' hands ar feveral times, fometimes clapping '* it from one hand to the other. It is after- '* wards rubbed lightly betv/een the hands, " by which means it is in fomede^gree felted. " It is again foaked in foap and water, again «* fulled, till it has acquired a proper confift- *' ence refemblins; that of doih. Tthis Fck " is then a perfed pattern of wh^t the cloth " will be when- manufaftured : For if the '^ wool has been properly fpread in the hands *' after carding, and carefully .managed, it " will be as even j;s cloth. To complete the " refembhnce after it has been wafbed, ift " order to clecr.fe ic from the foap, it fliould *' be d.-iedj and having pyt it betv-een 't>vs '■^ papers, pre CTed with a hot iron* j^t THE COUNTRY DYEK'j The previous fuggeftions are offered, thtt workmen may fuit themfelves in mixing col- ours. Europeans, apprifed of our encreafing manufaftories, attempt; to baffle our attempts, by impofing on us mixed cloths, as fafhion- able. They are fenfible that the younger look, to the older nations, for the pattern of their garments and for the faihionable col- ours of their cloths. For this reafon, Euro- f eans, frequently change or mix their col- ours to retain our adherancc to their mar- kets. CHAP. XXXVIII, ^be cultivatim of Teafch, EASELS are nccelTary to drefs cloth neatly; without them, a good nap on fine cloth, cannot be handlomely raifed. This plant is eafily cultivated. Itg feeds refemble thofe of the Burdock. They Should be fown early in the fpring, in moifl"? ASSISTANT. 131 rich ground. They fliould be placed in roes, about eight inches apart. Cultivate, and thin thcnn, when the (lock has acquired fix or feven leaves. Before winter, cover them with brufh for their prefervation. The next fpring take up and then fee thenn three feet apart i keep down weeds, and hoe them as other garden plants. In the courfe of the fecond feafon, fomeofthem will arrive to maturity • the remainder fhould ftand fot another feafon^ then they will conne to their perfeflion. Teafcls rife about three feet, from the icarth and branch out in various dire6lions» Each branch contain a bur about the liae of a hen's egg. This bur is full of little thorns, which turn down toward the ftock, like card teeth. After the blofom ts fallen they fliould be gathered for ufe, with about eight inches of the ftem. When the Teafels are dryed, fe- cure them from rats ; as they would foon deftroy them. They produce largely. I havetaken eighty heads, or burs from ^ ': italk. To prepare them to na^ clo:h, M ri54 THE COUNTRY QYER'i line a number of them in a hand, made fer that pui?pore. This -is a fti k containing two fmall mortices afide each other. In thcfc, flats-are incertcd; bccwern \vhii;h the Item of the TeafcU' are placed. A [ir'wtz is then to te drawn from ea*.h end of the flat*;, through a gain cut in ihe end of ihe fir Tt, or handle, to confine the Teafeis.* A, :nd ■thus made will prefent yoa the fori.: oi a iemicirclc. £very clothier ihouM alfo be furnifted with a plane, to clear the cloth of duft and hairs after it is fhorne j and to lay the nap for prcffing. It is made from a board, of thin plank, of hard wood. It fhould be eighteen inches long and fix in breadth, a little crowning, on the face, with a handle, at each end, made faft to the plain. The face fhould be hacked, to retain the cement, which is glue laid on, one eighth of an inch thick. Fill this- glue with tranfparent glafs, grofcly pounded. Sift out that which is powdered and take off ail large pieces; that to be em- ployed, though of various forms, flioiild be as large as fmall fhot. Lay thefc on the glue, which is fpread, on the face of the plane. The glafsfliould be equally diftribut- ed, when the glue is warm j then prefs thc- glafs down to the furface of th« glue, being fpread, fo as nearly, tO' cover it. When the glue becomes cold, the glafs will be fo fixed as to make an impreffion upon iron, and if. the plane be well made it will laft many/ years, without renc* ing. CHAP. XXXIX. 0/ the Shear 'Board . Ti HERE are various ways, by which it is conftru€led. Some prefer a ioft, others a hatd cuOiion. A medium is the befl. The moft convenient and durable Shear- Bo jrd is con drafted in the follo\^ing iim pie manner, Firft take a pattern from the leger, or under blade of the Ihears, by placing a thin board parallel with it^ an^ •j.36 THE COUNTRY DYER's then marking the besd of the leger on the boa;^ J afjer this cut out the board, exaclly, to the line. By this pattern fix four or five pieces of flicwork fo long as you defign, for the widch of ^-our board. Then take clear white pine boards; after jointing them plane one fide and wet it wi;h water j then lav the rough fide to the fire, which will warp it. When the board is lufficiently fprung, nail it to the pieces of flitworkj apiece fhould be placed to each end, and the others at e- qual diftances between them. After the boards are thus nailed, joint them, exa<5lly, to the pattern. This being done, cover the Shear-Board, with a bat, or chufhion made of wool. Take the length and width of the furface, on which, you intend the fhears to ' more. Employ a hatcer to bow the wool for the cuftiion, that it may be even. If it be three fourths of an inch thick, it will an- fwer. It fhould be dry when matted togath- cr; after this put it on the board and draw your covering clofely over it. Leather is the bed covering j it will laft mufc longer ASSISTANT. a3jf ; :hm cloth and preferve your goods, fionn lint, whilj Ihearing, . A Shear-Board made according to thefedi-- retflions will aJmit the leger of theftiears e- quially to the cloth ; and they will cue from- heel to point without any trouble ; whi'e oth- er boards are frequently out of order atid caufc the cloth to be (beared unequally. For this improvemeit of the bhear-Board, I aoi indebted to the ingenuity of Mr. Na* THAN Smith, a gentleman, who is diftin- guifhed by his improvements of mechanic arts. . C H A P. XL. Further remarks on dyejluff, X OR a great proportion of the iiigrcdients employed in dyes, we depeftd on Europfctofurnifli. With Europeans, it is an important objedt, to bring us their fa6lories, for all the cloathing we need. As we at- M 2 138 THE COUNTRY DYER'. tempt an independence of their markets, they increafetbeir duties on dyeftufFs which we im- port. Not one cafk, of Cochineal, can we ob- tain from our Gfter continent, South- America ; from thence it muft pop through the hands of Spain and England, From England we receive it, at an extravagant price. The dye woods, which abound in their Iflands we cannot obtain without paying heavy duties. Foreign nations receive a large revenue frora this country, for the dyeftuffs we import. Does it become an independent nation, to \)t thus dependent on others, for articles, which, perhaps, may abound in our own country ? Or fhall we, without enquiry, conclude that nature has denied us thefc ar- ticles i being partial in the diftribution of her favours ? The Indigo weed is a native of this country ) and for many )ears has been the only article for dyes that has been export- ed, towards ballancing the imports of other dyeftufF. Of late, the flirub Sumach em- ployed, to lay the ground, in paper-flaining, has been ground in mills, conftrufted for that purpofr, put in cafks and fen: to Europe. T;his affords a hand'^ome profit. ASSISTANT. 199, We have various plants, weeds and roots, whith produce a yellow. Among thefe are the root of the upland Dock the herb Peters- wort J but in a particlur manner the ASf- mart gives a yellow that is beautiful. If fer- encnted, before it is employed in dying, it will imprefs a permanet colour. The Woad of Europe ufed in dyes is prepared by a che- micial^roccfs, and produces a large revenue; undoubtedly the AflTmart which, in the north- ern ftztes is troublefome to farmers, might become profitable to them and our country were it fuitably prepared for a dyeflufr. Its . e*traft is highly charged with acids and veg-- itable falts. If our government fliould confider it wor- thy their attention, to encourage fome able chemift to explore the qualities of oui- foflils, woods, barks, (hrubs, pknts, roots, weeds and minerals, perhaps, the advantages, our rifing nation might derive, would foon in.i demnify us for the extra expenfe. THE END# THE IN D E X. CHAP. PAG£, I OF. vejfels and utinfils employed in ^y^ng 9 fi - Remarks on dyejiuffs 14 3 Recipe for the blue dye, or Indigo vat, 25 4-. For Navy blue. . * 3^ 5. For Raven blacki or Crow colour, , 37 — For black 3^ 6 For lisiht and dark cinnamon. Lon- don bronnj and Britijh.mud. . 40 7 For Saxon green, 43 — B)ttle green. 45 8 For Saxon blue, . . ... .46 9 For Snu^ brown ' , 47 iQ For Scarlet. . ...... 49 . — Barry red and. Orange 53 II For Crimfon 54 I % for Madder red, ...... 56 ^^ For Fink colour, .•.';»« 57 I N D E X. 14 For purple • • • S9 15 Claret from Redwood 61 16 Buffy or cream colour &Z 17 Jjh colour y with Nutgals, • . .64 — Slate colour 66 18 For For efi drab ibid. 19 For Sage green 68 20 Piiarl colour. 69 21 For aark drab brown 71 22 Olive green * 74 — Sea green and Fawn colour. . . 'j2 23 Tallow '74 24 Olive brown y^ '—- Obfervations. , yy 25 Of whitening woolen cloth, ... 78 26 On mixing colours thret by three.. . 7^ 27 For dying and drefftng Fnfiiany cotton and linen. 81 — Dark OlivQ, green on linen and coitcn. 84 28 Blue dye for linen and cotton. . .85' — the ftcond procefs for blue on linen and cotton 88 — Th\ri procefs for bkue; on cotten and linen, with Logwood. ... 9(5 INDEX. ±9 lO'dye thread purpUy olive hrewn and block 52 3© To d)e thread, red and green, . . 93^ 31 Por dying ftlk 95- — To /often watAr that is bard or im- prdgnated "with Minerals, . 103 32 Dinifion: to preferve dyejluff, , . ibid. 22 Remarks on milling or fulling cloths^ 104^ 34 Of /hearing clolhs. , , . . .110 35 Ohhrvations onprefjing clcth, , .112 2^ Of Jorting wooly for cloth. , , .114- 37 Ttf know when cloth is well dreffed, \io. — General ghfervatiom 125. ^— Prefcriptions for reducing dyes, . 127 — Of ihofe calour^y which will endure fftilUng. , , 130. — The method of preparing fells for trial, ibid 38' Cultivatien ofXeaJels 132 39 Of the Shear-Boar d» .... 1.35- 40 Further remarks on dy (fluff, . , . 137- ERRATA. ^ PAGE 17 line tenth for a/aw read fw*w.— — Pago .■'3. line fixicffnih, tot eN/jadienii r^dd in^redt(vts» m . Fdge iiBlme tweniythrce foi /oaw rcad ^>o»n, — ■i- AlTo Pdg: 109 the fifth liae from thcbouoBimiert/H>' '«fccr anlwer*