'^■.-* ■ // //////.y . ///r/.jr. A TREATISE ^COBBETT'S CORN, Containing Instructions for Propagating and Cultivating the Plant, and for Harvesting and Preserving the Crop ; A.ITS AX.SO An Account of the several Uses to which the Produce is applied, with Minute Directions relative to each Mode of Application. By WILLIAM COBBETT. " Men of the greatest learning, have spent their time in contriving instruments to measure the immense distance of the stars, and iu finding out the dimensions and even the weight of the planets. They think it more eligible to study the art of ploughing the sea with ships, than of tilling the land nith ploughs. They bestow the utmost of their skill, learnedly to pervert the natural use of all the elements, for the destruction of their own species by the bloody art of war ; and some waste their whole lives in studying how to arm death with new engines of horror, and inventing an infinite variety of slaughter, but think it beneath men of learning (who only are capable of doing it], to employ their learned labours in the invention of new, or even in improving the old, means for the increasing of bread." — Tull't Husbandry. LONDON : PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM COBBETT, 183, fLEET-STREET. 1828. LONDON : FRINTXD EY UILLS, JOWKTT, AND MILLS BOLT-COURT, FLEBT-STRKKT, TABLE OP CONTENTS. N. B. The figures refer not to pages but to paragraphs ; and the figure denotes the number of the paragraph with which the chapters respec- tively begin. CHAPTER I. General Introductory Observations . . 1 CHAPTER n. Description and History of Cobbett's Corn, and an account of the several sorts of it . . 11 - CHAPTER HI. On the Soil and the preparation of it, proper for the Corn, and on the Season for Planting it in England 34 CHAPTER IV. On the Season for Planting Corn ... 46 CHAPTER V. On the Mode of Planting Corn . i . 54 CHAPTER VI. On the Siunmer Cultivation of Corn . . 82 IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. On the Topping of the Corn, and on the Mode of Stacking the Tops . . . . » 117 CHAPTER VIII. On the Harvesting of the Ears ; on the Husking of them ; on the Mode of Keeping them ; on the Separating of the Grain from the Cobb ; and on the Uses of the Husks and of the Cobbs . 127 CHAPTER IX. On the various Uses to which the Grain is appli- cable, containing minute Instructions with re- gard to the Modes of Application . . 146 CHAPTER X. On the Amount and Value of the Corn- crop, compared with that of other Crops . . 163 CHAPTER XL Conclusion; addressed to the Readers of the Register 171 CHAPTER I. General Introductory Observations. I. The motive for writing and publisliing a work like this, if it had wanted suggestion from any mind but my own, would have been found in the motto, which I have chosen upon this occa- sion; and which is taken from him, whose work has done more to promote good agriculture, than all the other works, of all countries, put together. Certainly it is worthy of observation, and, indeed, of censure, that so very few men of learning (I mean of that sort of learning which is exhibited in, or to be acquired from, books) have employed any portion of their time and talent in treating of the means of making an addition to the quantity of human food. Nay, some of them have actually prided themselves upon their ignorance of every- thing relating to agriculture, that first and greatest employment of man. The late Lord Erskine annually attended the sheep-shearing festivals of Mr. Coke, as long as that gentleman thought proper to treat the nobility and gentry to such festivals, and the "learned Lord," annually, upon those occasions, made it his boast, that he B INTRODUCTORY [Chap. was so perfectly ignorant with regard to matters connected with the cultivation of the land, that he once, upon seeing a field of lavender, thought it was a field of wheat. To descend a step lower. Sir Walter Scott, well worthy of the first baronetcy bestowed by the present King ; this Baronet, of book-making and book-selling noto- riety, as the affairs of Constable and Co. can bear witness ; this worthy Baronet, in a letter to Lord SoMF.RViLLE, published by his Lordship in a book about oxen and sheep, took occasion, very unnecessarily, and even ostentatiously, to ob- serve, that, as to the business of agriculture, he hardly knew more than the pen with which he was writing. To descend lower still ("where will you stop, then ?" the reader will exclaim), Mr. Adolphus of the George-the-Third-history- fame, or rather obscurity, in pleading against me for one Farlar, before the Secondary of London, took occasion, while he displayed his white hand- kerchief and his genteely-pale hand, to tell the Jury, that, as to brewing, or the sort of ma- terials made use of in that process ; or, as to any rural affair, of whatever description, he him- self had no knowledge ; and that, in fact, if taken into the fields or the gardens, he knew not any one plant from any other 5 which declaration, if made before people in the country, before a set of farmers' men and maids, would convince them I.] OBSERVATIONS. that the orator was fit for little besides being knocked on the head. 2. When learned gentlemen, and learned lords, and girl-bewitching novel-writers, make this kind of ignorance their boast, is it any wonder that it should become the fashion, with persons in the middle rank of life, to make it their boast, that they do not know what you mean, when you talk of such things as spades and ploughs, and rakes and harrows? It is curious, too, that these same per- sons are ashamed to be thought ignorant of the histories of all the nations on earth ; and, as to "politics" they all understand politics; they would be ashamed not to be thought clearly to understand that which the King and the Parlia- ment ought to do. The constitution ! Oh 1 they all understand that, though made up of a series of maxims, decisions, and positive acts, grov/n together in the course of twelve hundred years. And, religion, now ! what man of them would not be ashamed, not to be thought competent to de- cide, not only between Calvin and the Pope; but to determine, to a hair's breadth, the right and the wrong of all the intervening classes, amounting ,to about fifty in number, each differing in its creed from all the- other forty-nine ? 3. Mr. 'Full, in the elegant passage which I have taken for my motto, observes on the waste of learning, in measuring and weighing the stars; b2 INTRODUCI-ORY [Chap. which brings to my recollection, that, when I was in the army, inNfiw Brunswick, I was acquainted with a Serjeant, who was a young man, and who, as well as myself, was a great reader ; but he was smitten with astronomy, and wanted me to pay attention to some of the discoveries he had made. " I tell you what," said I, " I do not " care what they are doing up there ; their orders, *' whether general, garrison, or regimental, can " never affect me : study you, if you please, what " they are about, I will confine my studies to " things which pass upon the earth." In our schools, nay, in our universities, every thing is taught, but that which is the most useful and honourable of all ; namely, the means of raising food, drink, and clothing, and materials for build- ings ; without which, and with tlie want of any one of which, mankind must cease to exist ; and without the whole of which in tolerable per- fection and abundance, no nation can be either great or happy. We have lectures upon every thing but agriculture : Doctor Birkbeck treats us to a theory of the winds ; another takes infinite pains to explain how the air is pumped out of the body of a rat ; there are a great num- ber of lecturers to teach us how the veins and the intestines are formed, and how they ought to be emptied ; but not a soul to tell us the best way of filling them. Commissioners of Scotch herrings I.] OBSERVATIONS. we have had, and a Count of the White-Eagle (RuMFORj)), together with a whole troop of soup- kettle philosophers, to teach us how to stew old bones into jelly, and by how little the human body can be sustained ; but not a single man to give us a lecture on the means of providing that plenty, that abundance of good living, without which man had better be dead than alive, and for which our country was, for so many ages, so famous. 4. The great study, of late years, appears to have been, to discover the means of reducing the most numerous and most useful class of the people to exist upon the smallest possible quan- tity of food ; and, failing here, Parson IMal- THUS has suggested the means, improved upon by the infamous Peter THrMBLE, and the equally infamous CARLrLE, of checliing the course of nature in the producing* of children. The Parson and his worthy coadjutors never seem to have thought, for a single moment, of a more just distribution of the food already raised, and still less of any means of adding to the quan- tity. The schemes of these worthies not being attended with success, schemes for f/etting rid of the people, by sending them out of the country, have, at last, been resorted to, and have actually been brought before Parliament, by Mr. WiL- MOT HoRTON, the patron of the project. INTRODUCTORY [Chap. 5. My efforts have, all my life long, since I became a man, been directly the reverse of those of these projectors. I have used various en- deavours to cause an addition to be made to the food, the drink, the raiment, of the industrious classes. I know, and I have always known, that complete success cannot attend these endeavours, so long as the present, or any thing like the pre- sent, burthen of taxes remains j but, a change in this respect must come ; and, in the meanwhile, it is my duty to persevere in my efforts to add to the permanent resources, the permanent strength, and the permanent happiness of my country. In this way to introduce, and that too, with such success, the general planting of the Locust, and other American trees, was doing a great deal : timber will be grown here, instead of being im- ported from abroad : English ships will be better as well as lighter than they were before: our buildings and our fencing will be more lasting: our implements of husbandry will become lighter and more durable : and, from the same cause will arise a greater quantity of employment than would have existed, had I never made a publica- tion upon this subject. 6. The introduction of the Locust Tree was a matter of such vast importance, affecting all classes in society, that 1 never dreamed of any thing to ex- ceed it in point of value to the country ; but, it I.} OBSERVATIONS. certainly will be exceeded by the introduction of the plant of which I am about to treat. It is desirable that the crops of a country, whether for human or for cattle food, should be of as many- sorts as can be usefully employed, and, if oi grain, coming to maturity at different parts of all the finer seasons of the year. No one can so well appreciate the advantage of this variety of crops, as he who has been in countries where they are cultivated. 7. AH our grain, upon an average of years, comes to perfection in the course of one single month; so that, if that month happen to be untoward, the loJioIe of our crops receive great injury; and som.etimes the injury is so great, as it has happened to be this very year, as to produce an apprehension, if not real danger, of something approaching towards famine. If the evil do not extend thus far, it produces, at the least, very great distress ; and, as it may happen in this very year also, and so it must always be, in a greater or less degree, this evil produces great embarrassment to the government ; and cases may frequently arise, when the government, em- barrassed from this cause, may be induced, and even compelled, to endure insults and injuries from foreign nations, to which, otherwise, it would not have submitted. 8. This simultaneous ripening of our crops of grain, causes a very partial and injurious distri- INTRODUCTORY [Chap. bution of the labours of the year. The harvest month, as it is proverbially called, is a month of bustle and of hurry indescribable : all is at stake ; not a moment is to be lost; any demand for wages must be submitted to : to this succeeds a dead calm, in which there is nothing to do ; wages acquired so suddenly are but too frequently as suddenly dissipated ; and, after a long and indolent autumn, winter comes, and meets the labourer with not a farthing of his harvest earn- ings in his pocket. Now, the Indian corn fur- nishes employment until the end, and after the end of October, and well rewards the man who gives the employment. This is one of the most important considerations belonging to the subject. I shall, by and bye, have to show, when I come to the eighth chapter, where I shall speak of the various uses to which the grain and other parts of the produce are applicable : I shall then show, what a blessing this plant will be to the English labourer, and how it will and rhust drive the accursed soul-degrading potatoe out of that land, into which it never ought to have come : but, viewing the cultivation of this plant, merely as the means of diminishing the bustle of the one month, by spreading it over three ; viewing it in tliis light only, the introduction of this plant must, by every sensible man, be deemed of the greatest importance. I.] OBSERVATIONS. 9. Much of the ease and happiness of the peo- ple of the United States of America is ascribable to the absence of grinding taxation ; but that absence alone, without the cultivation of Indian Corn, would not, in the space of only about a hundred and fifty years, have created a powerful nation, consisting of twelve millions of souls ; a population surpassing that of England and Wales. This plant is the great blessing of the country. In my " Year's residence in America," I describe it as the greatest blessing that God ever gave to man. It ripens at a time of the year, when the harvest of the other grain is completely gone by ; and it is a thing of such vast importance, that the question from farmer to farmer, living at some distance from each other, is not, " how is your wheat, your barley, your rye, or your oats ? " but, " how is your CORN this year ? " For, by that, he judges of the state of his neighbour's prosperity or adversity as to his crops. 10. I have very frequently observed, that I be- lieved England to be the richest agricultural country in the world, bating the want of Indian Corn; and that, if it had that, it would exceed every other country beyond all comparison. Perceiving the Indian Corn to require tlie heat of America, and seeing it frequently hardly coming to ma ■ turity, even in the United States, in their most northern parts, I regarded our sun as wholly iu- b5 IMBODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. sufficient for the purpose of ripening this vahmble crop ; until the accident, of which I shall speak more particularly in the next chapter, induced me to make that trial, which, upon a scale sufficiently large to obviate every doubt, has now convinced me of the contrary. But, this is not of the scmie sort as that of any of the corn that I ever saw in America, or that I had ever seen before I saw this sort. 1 have called it dwarf corn ', but, that word does not sufficiently designate it. There are, in America, two or three sorts of corn called dwarfs but, they all differ greatly from this : of those sorts I shall have to say more in the next chapter. Arthur Young, in his " Travels in France, Spain, and Italy," describes the great and numerous advantages attending the cultivating of maize or Indian Corn ; and, though he takes it for granted, that the corn will not ripen in England, he recommends the planting of it merely for the sake of its great produce of excellent fodder. If Mr. Young had lived until now, he would have seen, that we can have both grain and fodder. J^laltX ^ • CHAPTER II. Desa'iption mid History of Cohbetfs Corn, and an Accotint of the Several Sorts of it. 1 1 . On the opposite page is a pretty accurate representation of a plant of Indian Corn, of the sort of which I am about to treat, and to which, in order to distinguish it from other sorts, I give the name of " Cobbeti^'s Corn." The height of the plant, from the ground to the tip-top, is, with good land and good culture, al)out four feet. The draw- ing exhibits a plant in its most beautiful state, with all its blades at their full size and length, with the bloom on the tassel, and M'ith the silk hanging down from the ears, which are covered by their husks; a the tassel ; b, the top; est way certainly is to place it in hills ; for that gives air to all the plants, and prevents the shading that rows must produce. If, therefore, any one should choose to plant tall corn ; and, from what I shall have to say hereafter, some per- sons may like to try the tall corn, then the hill fashion is certainly the best. If this be adopted, we should not make our marks with a log^ as the Americans do ; but, with a little plough, or something that ingenuity could very soon supply us with. Almost anv thing might do for the purpose, so that it made the mark sufii- d2 MODE OF [Chap. "ciently plain. And, I recommendj that, in all cases, where it can be done, the manuring, when that is necessary, should take place before the last ploughing of the ground preceding the time of planting. 56. If you determine on hills, you ought to place them four feet apart; and then, if you mark the ground truly, you may plough longways the field at one time and ci'osstvays at another time, as Mr.TuLL saw them do in the vineyards of France, which gave rise to his famous book on the horse-hoeing husbandry, and which book was the foundation of all the improvements in agriculture in this country. This cross-ploughing, or horse- hoeing, is very good ; it hills up the plants pretty completely without any hand-work, or with very little ; and it leaves scarcely any thing to be done with the hoe. i t^hall hereafter speak of the re- lative quantity of plants and of seed, and also of the act of planting. 57. But, in the case of the Divarf-Corn, or ('oBBETT-CoRN, I prefer roics. My distances, this year, have been, plants eight inches apart in the row, and the rows //wve^/ee/ apart, which gives to each plant precisely two square feet of ground. But, I am convinced, that these are not the proper distances. Three feet do not give room for good, true, and tolerably deep 7^/o?^^/«'w^; and that is the main thing in the cultivation of corn. v.] PLANTING. which, indeed, will not thrive well, if the ground be not deeply moved, and very near to the plants too, ivhile they are growhiy. The reasons for this are given by Mr. Toll ; but, I have seen enough of the experience. You will see, in America, a field of corn, late in June perhaps, which has not been ploughed, looking, to-day, sickly and , yellow. Look at it in only four days' time, if ploughed the day after you saw it, and its colour is totally changed. 58. Now, you cannot plough deep and clean, and, indeed, you cannot perform any thing worthy of the name of plouc/hinf/, in so narrow a space as that of three feet : you require four feet at the least ', and, for the reasons which I shall pre- sently give, I prefer Jive feet, with a smaller dis- tance between the plants in the row. This year I was compelled to content myself with hand- work 3 that is to say, with two miserable flat hoeings, which is tillage quite insufficient for Corn j it merely keeps down tha weeds, and it hardly does that 3 for, as to digging, the work comes at a time of the year (hay-making and harvest) when hands are not to be got even heie ; for, be it known to those who did not know it before, a man will never dig, if he can get one half of the wages for playing with a little prong or wooden rake, or can partake in the divers joys or jovial society of hay-carting and harvest- carting, not to say a MODE OF [Chap. word about the beer, which, if it flow at any time, is sure to flow then. Besides, with farmers in general, the digging of fields must be totally out of the question. The work must be done with the plough ; and in the manner which, in the next chapter, I shall have to describe, when speak- ing of the summer cultivation. 59. You may, with great care, plough cleanly and deeply in the space of four feet ; but you can do it with a great deal better, and with more facility, in a space of five. Besides, five feet leaves room for a small cart to go along the inter- vals to bring in the fops. I have been exceedingly troubled this year for the want of such spaces ; there is not room sufficient in three feet even for the work of topping. The man disturbs one row as he is topping the other; and there is not room to spread the top sufficiently for them to receive the sun and air in order to their drying. From this cause my tops have been greatly les- sened in value this year. Five feet intervals give good room for every thing ; and, therefore, those are the intervals wiiich I recommend, and which I certainly shall adopt myself. 60. Then, you may place the plants closer to each other in the row; and 1 intend to place mine at six inches apart, instead of eight, which was the distance at which they would have stood this year, if I had not at too late a period dis_ V^] PLANTING. covered the working of the birds, and if the planting of the corn had been performed by very careful and very silent, instead of singularly careless and noisy men. And, let me here step aside for a moment to observe, that a man can hardly have a worse quality than that of being talkative while at work ; or, as the country people call it, moutMjy which is the proper ■w^ord to designate the quality. A man may be strong; he may be willing; he may be handy ; but if he be mouthy, he is a disturber of the peace of the farm house, and vou never can emjiloy him with other men. His sonorous voice is sure to make all the rest prick up their ears : they talk too, If not in the wjiy of emulation, in the way of reply or observation ; and if you let them alone, you have a colloquial assembly rivalling in their way the Catholic asso- ciation in Ireland. Up go the backs of them all: not that they want to rest themselves, or to slight yoiu- work ; but, they want to reply or observe upon the interesting points mooted by the orator. I know a gentleman who says that there is but one thing worse than Avriting, and that is talking. On a farm, I would certainly prefer a writer to a talker ; for then he would indulge his propensity at times when it would be no detriment to me. 61. However, in the planting of the Corn, silence is absolutely necessarv, seeing that so much depends upon having the pioper number . MODE OF [Chap* of plants, and having them properly placed. My crop has suffered greatly from the want of this silence at the time of the plantnig : if there be a talk going on, it is impossible that the planter should attend minutely to his distances. 62. With intervals of five feet, and plants at six inches in the row, you will find, that each plant would occupy tivo and a half square feet of ground, consequently, there would be a fifth less lunnber of plants on an acre, than with intervals of three feet and distances of eight inches in the row; but, I am quite certain that the superior summer tillage, to say nothing of the cheapness of the tillage, and the advantage of conveniently tak- ing off and harvesting the tops, would cause a much greater crop to be produced, than with intervals of three feet, and distances of eight inches in the row. Here woidd be scarcely any hand work at all. The plough might go deeply and very near to the plants. The last ploughing would help to earth them up with the greatest possible convenience j and, in short, whether as to air, sun, or any other circumstance, the intervals of five feet appear to nie to be the best. Even, if the planting took place in hills as before mentioned, I should pre- fer five feet one way and four feet the other way, in order that a small cart might easily go between to take up the tops, without which the trouble of bringing them off is exceedingly great. v.] PLANTING. 63. You might have two rows of corn at six inches apart in the row, the rows hvo feet apart; and your intervals of five feet. This would give you one plant upon every one and three quarters square feet of ground, which, of course, would give you ten plants for every seven that you would have the other way. 1 am not certain, not having made the experiment, in which of the two ways you would have the greatest crop to the acre ; but, there would be, the two feet space between the two rows to be cultivated with the hoe : there would be that much of your ground which could not be deeply moved during the summer, besides the additional hand labour and expense. I myself will try this, upon a part of my land, but 1 am decidedly of opinion, that five feet intervals, with six inches distance in the rows, is the best method for my sort of corn. 64. With respect to small bits of ground, wiiich may be conveniently cultivated with the sjjade, and from which the tops and blades can be car- ried off with little or no inconvenience : here the intervals may be three feet and the distances in the row, six or seven inches j because every plant can be attended to : care may be taken of every one, which cannot be the case in a large field. The narrow intervals, therefore, will of course be adopted by all poor men in their gardens or little plats of ground, which they will certainly apply D 5 ' MODE OF [Chap. to this mc, instead of that of planting potatoes, when they shall discover that a quarter of an acre of ground may be made to fat a couple of hogs, and give a great deal of good food to the family besides. 65. I now proceed to speak of the act of planting J which is a thing of the greatest import- ance 3 because, unless this be done properly, you have not the proper number of plants ; the plants do not come up altogether as they ought to do ; and, in short, according to the old saying, " the ship is lost for the want of a half-penny- worth of tar." I have before recommended that the manure, if any, should be in the ground pre- vious to the last ploughing. The surface of the field being finely broken by the harrow, and by the roller if necessary ; and, if you plant in hills, the marking having been performed, you go with a hoe, and make at every crossing a little place about a inch and a half deep, and about six inches in diameter, and there, taking from your waistcoat pocket five or six seeds, lay them down round the little place you have made ; then, draw the earth over them, laying it upon the seeds to about an inch and a half deep, taking care that the earth be fine, and have no clods amongst it, and press the earth down upon the seeds with your foot or the back of your hoe. If the ground, in spite of your exertions, be generally rough upon the v.] PLANTING. surface and cloddy, you may readily find near the spot, fine earth enough to put upon the seeds ; and, if you take care to do this, the general roughness of the ground is not of such very great consequence, especially when you plant in hills 5 for, the hand hoeing which is to be spoken of hereafter, and which is to take place just round the plants, will, if the proper season be chosen, sufficiently pulverise the earth near the plants, and the ploughings will completely do all the rest. In clayey ground, or very stift' ground, where it may have been impossible to get the surface of the field fine, I think that the hill method might be the best. ^Vith hills four feet apart one way, and five feet apart the othe way, and with six plants in each hill, you wou^.^ have one third less of plants than in rows five feet a part and plants at six inches in the row ; but, the seed would be planted in hills, in stiff and cloddy land much more easily than in rows ; because, rows will require drills ; and it is more difficult to get a sufficiency of fine earth to cover a drill all along the field, than it is to find a sufficiency of it to cover the seed in the hills. 66. If you plant in rows, you must make a drill ; which may be made by a drill plough, or by almost any of those things which are now in such general use in the business of drilling. The ground ought to be ploughed, at its last ploughing. MODE OF [Chap. into lands of al»out five feet and a half wide. This; besides being a guide to the driller, would be an advantage, especially in shallow land, as it would give the plants an additional thickness of good soil to stand upon. Having this infalli- ble guide, the ploughman or driller would find no difficulty in going straight from one end of the field to the other; and, even if the drills were drawn with the corner of a hoe, the drill drawer v.ould require no other guide than the meeting of the two furrows at the top of the land; and as to the labour of drawing these little shal- low drills, one man, with a sharp-cornered hoe, would draw the drills over several acres in one day. Care must be taken that the drills be not too deep ; and that there be no holes in them from the pulling up of clods ; and that they be smooth, or nearly so, at the bottom, so that the corn may be deposited at an equal depth all the way along the drill. It is like the planting of kidnev beans, and as much care should be taken about it. 67. When the drill is made, comes the planter; and here the greatest possible care must be taken not to have planters who talk, or, as they say in the country, whose heads are filled with procla- mations. There must be the exact number of plants upon the acre ; and these must be at their proper distances ; for it is surprising how much v.] PLANTING. is lost by gaps. Upon the best part of my field, this year, just about one third has been lost by gaps, occasioned partly by the birds and partly bv the negligence of my planters, to whom cir- cumstances prevented me from giving the proper overlooking. This is a matter of the greatest importance, and I beg, therefore, to press it upon the attention of the reader. 68. That a man, any man, should ^eposite the grains along a whole field precisely at six inches apart, is a thing not to be expected by any reasonable person. That which I could not do myself, I have certainly no reason to expect from an agricultural labourer. To measure every distance would be to make the work too tedious ', but still the distances may be measured, and that too, with very little trouble, and with very little delay in the performance of the work ; and the way that I intend to do the thing is this, sup- pose me to have three planters. I will have for each a little straight piece of wood, six feet long and perfectly straight. I will have it painted black, and have a white mark painted round it, all round it, at every six inches. The planter, with the grains in his pocket, lays down his stick on one side of the drill, and puts a grain at the bottom of the drill opposite to every mark upon the stick. He then moves his stick on and does the like again j and thus keeps on until the drill MODE OF [Chap. be completed. Not only have we certainty here, as to number and situation of the plants j but we have also a great saving of time, for, the numerous hesitations that will stop a careful planter ; his numerous doubts, and the many times that he will stop to take up a grain that Le has already put down, in order to place it nearer to, or further off from, the last, that he has placed, take up a great deal of time ; and I have no doubt in my own mind, that this certainty may be obtained by these means, at one half of the expense that we purchase the uncertainty arising from the leaving of the matter to the eye. The stick is shifted forward with the greatest facility in the world ; the back is already bent; the hinder end of the stick is brought up to where the last grain is deposited, and then the planter goes on again. Nothing can be more true than this ; nothing more easy ; nothing requiring less adroitness or less thought. Never- theless I by no means recommend the employing of girls or boys in this part of the business, nor even men that do not like to bend their backs, for such would be too apt to sloven the matter over after all. 69. After the planter comes a man with a little hoe to cover the seeds over with the earth ; and this is a nice part of the business, especially if the ground be cloddy ; for none kut fine earth v.] PLANTING. should lie directly upon the top of the seeds. The earth should not be more than an inch and a half deep upon the seeds; but it should be pressed a little upon the seeds, either with the hoe or with the foot. Two men, one to plant and the other to cover, would, I should think, do three acres a day, in the month of April, and more in the month of May. A man with u hoe, would draw the drills of four acres in a day, in the single row fashion ; so that here is as small an expense as the sowing of any sort of grain, be it what it may ; even if the drills be drawn by hand. H you have two rows, the labour will be pretty nearly double. 70. Ill the case of the two rows, the lands must be seven feet wide instead of five. The drills, however, must be drawn in the same man- ner; but the guide for the drill-drawer will not be so good. In this case, too, care must be taken, that, in the drawing of one drill, the other, which is already drawn, is not disturbed by the feet of the man or the horse. If drawn by hand, the man who draws ought always to keep on the outside, lest he partly fill up the drill that is al- ready drawn by the trampling of his feet. 71. Transplanting may, it is very possible, be the way to ensure the largest, and certainly the earliest, crop. I shall transplant an acre next year. I know that the plant will bear trans- MODE OF [Chap. planting as well as a cabbage plant. I am of opinion that it is the least expensive mode of planting; and I know that it must be attended with several important advantages. One of which is, that you may transplant with safety so late as the third iveek in June. I have transplanted Corn many times in England, and once in America. I transplanted some in Long Island when it was two feet and a half liigh ; and it was doing very well until my cattle broke in and destroyed it. I transplanted some last year, and it bore exceedingly well. 72. I intend to plant some corn in beds so early as the first of April. I shall make little drills across the beds, at four inches apart, and deposit the grains in them at four inches apart also. This gives twelve plants to every square foot, which is three thousand two hun- dred and sixty-four in a rod. Now, an acre in the row fashion, at six inches in the row, and intervals of five feet, requires seventeen thousand four hundred and eight plants, consequently six rods of ground, of beds, would be sufficient for the transplanting an acre. 73. These beds I shall make three feet wide, with an alley between them of fifteen inches wide. As soon as the plants are fairly up, I shall hoe between them with a very small hoe ; and choosing, in the first place, good ground, v.] PLANTING. and not a very exjjosed aspect, for the purpose, I shall, if sharp frosts threaten, after the middle of April, about which time the plants will all be fairly up, give a little covering with hoops and mats, or, which is just as good, short stumps to lay hurdles upon ; for the most trifling thing in the world will intercept the mischievous power of the frost. By the middle of May, these plants will be five or six inches high ; and they will not have received any injury from their crowded situation. 74. The ground may now be ploughed, and the plants put in with the dibble without the drawing of any drill at all. The furrow mark at the top of the land will be sufficient for the planter ; and his guide as to the distance from plant to plant will be the painted stick as in the former instance. But, perhaps, the quicker way in this case would be, and indeed I know that it would, for the planter to be preceded by another person, who should go on with the plants and the stick, and lay a plant down ready for him on every spot on which it was to stand. This work should be done in dry weather if possible, and shou\d foUoiv closely upon the heels of the plough. This is a thing prodigiouslv advantageous to the plants; for, a fermentation takes place in the earth at every moving, and here this fermentation MODE OF [Chap. comes to the aid of the plant, which has a root ready formed to be operated upon, and which strikes off immediately. 75 . Do not be afraid of the sun ; for I have transplanted Corn, under the hottest sun, im- mediately after the spade or the plough. The plants will drooj) a little, for a day or two, but they will immediately revive, and will go on more vigorously than if they had never been trans- planted. They are less prone to have suckers (of which I shall say more Ijy-and-bye), than plants are which are not transplanted ; and they ripen their fruit earlier by a fortnight or three weeks. 76. There is another very great advantage in this mode of planting. I have observed before that it enables you to put the work of planting off, for a fortnight or three weeks, while it makes your crop earlier; but, besides this, it enables you to deposite your manure, if that be scarce with you, all just under the place where the plants are to stand. Your ground, supposing the single rows above described, being ploughed into five feet lands, you put the manure along the fur- rows, turn the lands back again, and then put your plants along the middle of your land, where the drill would have been if you had planted by grain instead of plants j and, though this VJ PLANTING. may be done in the case of planting by grain, it cannot be done so conveniently. Some of the dung would be brought up by the driller or by the hoe ; and, at any rate, the ground would not have been so lately moved, and would not have been so ready to give nourishment to the plant. 77. In stiff land, in particular, this mode of planting might be desirable, such land is difficult to get into fine tilth by the latter end of Ajjri!. Opportunities enough generally offer to do it be- fore the first of June; an additional ploughing is of great advantage to it ; and, by transplant- ing, all the labour of rolling and harrowing is completely saved. These are very great advan- tages ; very strong reasons on the side of trans- planting. In this case, too, a hand-hoeing is saved, and you avoid completely all injury from slugs, from birds, and from hurt that the seed may re- ceive under the ground. 78. The act of transplanting should be care- fully performed by a man who knows how to use a dibble or setting-stick, such as is used for the transplanting of cabbage plants or lettuces, and such a man will, with ease, transplant an acre in a day, if the plants be laid out for him in the manner before directed. But he must not be suffered to do the work in a slovenly or care- less manner. He must not make the hole too MODE OF [Chap. large, nor too deep, and must take care to fix the root well in the ground, filling up the hole that the stick has made, so that the earth lie smoothly about the bottom of the stem of the plant, which will not be infested by weeds, as the young plants which are raised upon the spot by grain will be, because, here, there will be plants and not seeds following closely upon the heels of the plough. 79. When the plants are taken out of the bed, they should be heaved up with a spade, with as little tearing of the roots as possible, and the dirt should not be shaken off. They should be laid into a shallow wicker basket, such as the gardeners make use of, and thus carried and laid down for the planter ; and the distributor of the plants should not be far a-head of the planter, especially in the case of hot suns or sharp winds. If some of your ground be ready for planting a considerable time before the rest ; or if any cir- cumstance cause the work of planting to be long in hand, begin by taking up every other row of plants in the beds, or, which is better, every other plant in each row. This will give the remainder room ; and they will wait to give you time for your manuring, or your ploughing, if it be ne- cessary. 80. If, by any accident, you be compelled to defer the work of transplanting to a late season. v.] PLANTING. such as the middle of June, your remaining plants will probably be a foot high or more ; but if you follow closely upon the heels of the plough, and keep the roots as little as possible exposed to the sun and wind, you need not even then doubt of success in good land, or with a suffi- ciency of manure under the plants. At all events, a rod or two of plants ought to be raised in beds, in the manner above described, for the purpose of filling up gaps that may be found, in spite of every precaution, in a field which has been planted with grain ; for, in order to have the largest crop that can possibly be raised, effectual means must be used to prevent any deficiency in the number of plants. S 1 . I have thus described the several modes of planting corn. I am convinced, that that of planting with plants, and not with seeds, is the best and the cheapest ; but then every part of the work must be well attended to. Whether you plant in hills or in rows, you may transplant with equal propriety; there is no difference but this, that you cannot deposit the manure just under the hills, as you can just under the rows ; but, in both cases, there is the great advantage of time. You may with safety transplant stout plants until the middle of June. I did it myself, in the year 1827, and the corn ripened perfectly well; but if you keep the plants till they be MODE OF PLANTING. stout, they must have good room hi the beds, or thcv will be too weak to withstand the power of the sun ; and in proportion as the plants be large, you must be careful in keepino" their roots from the sun and the wind. CHAPTER VI. On the Summer Cultivation of Corn. 82. Your first attention, as soon as the corn begins to make its appearance, is to be directed towards the birds and the slugs. I have before spoken of the trees which harbour the former, and of the hedges which harbour both. These are to be avoided round a corn field as much as possible ; but, at any rate, the birds and the slugs must be kept off. Birds come by day-light, and are extremely susceptible in the affair of powder, which is the only effectual remedy. Shoy- hoys, though equal in the field to Burdett and others in a place which it would be, in a rustic work, inapplicable to name, exercise their influence but for a very short space of time. The birds, full as quick-sighted as Boroughmongers, or the agents of Boroughmongers, quickly perceive that their guardianship of the treasures of the farmer is a mere sham ; and, like the sparrows in my neighbour's garden at Botley, they will, in a short time, make the top of the hat of a shoy-hoy a table whereon to enjoy the repast which they have purloined. Strings and feathers, and flying SUMMER [Chap. rags are of equally transitory influence. Powder is the only thing of which they continue to be, for any length of time, seriously afraid. 83. Every part of the corn, from the time of its germination, till it becomes flower ; blades, blossoms, stalks, have great sweetness in them. We know that fowls of all sorts eat grass with as much avidity as pigs or sheep do. All birds do the same ; and it is well known that rooks frequently do great injury to wheat fields by peck- ing off the spears soon after they come out of the ground. These and other birds do the same, to a certain extent, in all wheat fields, and in fields of other grain. But, generally speaking, they here do little injury, because there is always such a superabundance of plants. It is not thus in a corn field where there is not a plant too many ; and, therefore, the birds must be kept off, and effectually kept off, until the plants be three or four inches high, and have lost a part of that sweetness which is contained in the young spear, proceeding, as this latter does, immediately from the seed. 84. Rooks, partridges, pheasants, crows, mag- pies, jays, blackbirds, thrushes, larks, and several other birds, but particularly the numerous and impudent sparrows, not forgetting the pigeons, and their first cousins, the innocent doves, which last are the most mischievous and most cunningof VI.] CULTIVATION. all, seem equally fond of the spear of the corn ; a thing which I was wholly unaware of, until they had done me great mischief, which it was by no means in my power to repair. An inno- cent dove will come peeping round the field ; and after having settled, in the most modest manner, amongst the thickest branches of a tree or a bush, as if to disguise from the admiring farmer her spangled dress and the white ruff round her neck and her pretty blue and love- in- spiring eyes, will, the moment his back is turned, slip down upon the ground, get upon a row of corn, and trip along like a Circassian, from spear to spear, till she has got twenty or thirty in her craw. These are done for ; for, though they will shoot up again, they will be feeble, backv/ard, and, in short, the crop is almost wholly destroyed ; for the lady-dove does not devour the top of tlie spear, but, regulated by the maxim, that the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat, she plucks it off as nearly to the ground as possii3le, or a little way into the ground, swallows the bottom, and rejects the top. The mortification which these wretched creatures gave me last spring made me a hundred times think of the Scripture, and say, that, if I must have one of the two, give me the cunning serpent in preference to the harmless dove ; for any thing so mischievous as these, of the feathered race, I know nothing of. E SUMMER [Chap. 85. The rook always keeps above board, and his colour causes him to be seen from afar. Rooks move in battalions, too ; but these melan- choly doves are like private stealers, that depend upon their powers of deception. They are as silent, as nimble, and as demure, as she pick- pockets. All the others make some noise or other, but the doves make none ; and there is no way of matching them, but being continually, during the hours of day-light, in the field with a gun. Larks are very bad ; for the fields are their roosting place ; but a gun fired off now and then in the field, and in various ])arts of it, will keep the whole of tlie feathered race away. I did not discover this until it was too late to pre- vent great mischief; and if I had not discovered it at all, I verily believe I should have lost nine- tenths of the crop. \Mien I did discover it, I had a man constantly in the field v.-ith a gun, firing off ])owder now and then, and the depreda- tions instantly ceased. But, observe, the gun must be heard in the field, not only as soon as it is light, but a little while before it is light, or the guardianship is totally useless ; for birds go to bed before it is dark, and they move from their roost at the very first glimmering of light. ITiis, however, is no very great thing to do, see- ing that the danger lasts for only about a fort- night, for by that time the plants become no VI.] CULTIVATION. delicacy to the birds. Most farmers have a son who would rather be shooting a gun off all the dav, than be at plough or harrow; and, even if it be necessary to hire a man for the purpose, the cost is not very great. 86. But these day-light enemies of the corn are much less difficult to deal with than those which come by night. Mice do not eat the spears of the corn, and it is very rarely they can find out the seed until it be got into a state that unfits it for their liking. But the slugs are night enemies ; and if they abound, they will do a great deal of mischief, not only near the hedges, but in the middle of the fields, if the ground be rough, and have not recently been thoroughly broken ; and especially if it have been weedy during the preceding summer. These are terri- ble enemies, and it is necessary to provide against them by the previous tillage of the land; but you cannot get them out of the hedges and the hedge- rows, Vvhence they will sally forth in moist or wet weather, and in nights when the dews are heavy. They will sometimes destroy, in great part, a field of wheat. I once saw a field suffer- ing under their attacks in Berkshire. The farmer had laid cabbage leaves about the field as traps for them. The slugs would, soon after day-light, crawl under the leaves ; and then the leaves were taken up, and the slugs killed. This remedy e2 SUMMER [Chap. could, however, be but very partial. Only a few of the slugs would go under the leaves, and the rest would proceed with their work of destruc- tion. The only eflfectual remedy for slugs is hot lime. The lime should be very fine. Put some into a bag, much larger than necessary to hold the quantity. Put, for instance, a gallon into a bag that v.ill hold four gallons ; and let the bag be of the same stuff that common sacks are made of. Go round the field, and, at a yard distance from wliere the grass of tiie hedge begins, and, as you walk along, give, at every third step, the bag a shake or two. You may keep walking on at a good pace. The ground will all receive some of the fine dust of the lime ; of course the slugs will have their share, and the smallest touch of it will kill any slug. But if none should happen to fall on him, he will lick some up at his next move; and that is equally destructive to him. 87. But, observe, this must be done after dark and before day -light ; or, just after a rain : for then the slugs will sally out in the day-time. And, observe, too, that this must be repeated several times ; for slugs do not all come forth in the same night. Observe, further, that the lime loses its power, after it has had rainfall upon it, or after a heavy dew. So that vou ought to count on its power for only once ; and, therefore, it will be necessary to go round the outsides of VI.] CULTIV^\TION. the field about ten nights running, just after the corn begins to appear above ground. 88. If slugs infest the middle of the field, to kill them will require a little more trouble ; but it is easily done. Go along each row of corn, and shake the bag over the row at every third step, or thereabouts. As it would be difficult to do this in the dark, it may suffice to do it a little before sun-set ; or, very early in the morning. This remedy is effectual, and is neither trouble- some nor costly ; and slugs, if abundant, and if let alone, make great havoc, and in quick time; witness the transplanted lettuce-beds of careless gardeners. It is useless to fling coarse lime about. The lime must be very fine, fine as the finest flour. It then touches all the ground ; and is certain destruction to slugs, and to snails also, if it light on them when they are out of their shells. 89. But there are other niyht-foes far more destructive than slugs ; and these are, in most cases, jjrotected by the laiu : I mean liares and rabbits! Yet, if you have these to any extent, and dare not kill them, you must not think of planting corn. One hare v.ill nip off a whole row, in one night, forty or fifty rods long. In many parts these animals do great injury to all the straw-crops ; what, then, must they do to corn I If there be but fevj of them, ^ on mav, by good SUMMER [Chap. fences, stopping of muses (holes in hedges that they pass through), bushing the gates well, beat- ing the hedges and hedge-rows round the field, and round the neighbouring fields, by day, and, in addi- tion, hunting the field with a spaniel, or poacher's dog, in the night, keep these worst of enemies oif ; but if you have the misfortune to be cursed with them in great numbers, and dm'e not de- stroy or annoy them, you cannot have my Corn, and the owner of the land must be content with such rent as a tenant thus deprived will be able to pay him. Pheasants and partidges may be easily kept off until the corn be out of dan- ger; for they do not work by night, and they smell powder as far as a rook or a magpie ; but the four-legged plagues come by night; and though the report of a gun might alarm them, even in the night, if near to them, they are far too cunning not to know that sportsmen cannot see far in the dark. The law, therefore, which forbids, in certain cases, the killing of these ani- mals, will, whenever thcA' abound, forbid, in fact, the growing of corn. 90. The corn having been protected against birds and slugs, until it be about three inches high, is quite safe from them for the remainder of its career. Not so, however, from hares and rabbits : they will continue to feed on it until it be a foot high. But, leaving them aside, as an VI.] CULTIVATION'. insuperable ob.stacle to the cultivation, let us now suppose the corn plants to be three inches high. Long before this, 7reeds\\\\\ begin to appear ; for they were in the ground long before the corn, and they claim their right of primogeniture, and act upon that right. They will not rise to the same height with the corn plants ; but, their inferiority in point of height and bulk will be amply made up for in numbers ; and the poor corn plant, if left to itself, will soon be like Gulliver, when bound down by the Lilliputians. These " patriots of the soil," as poor Perry used to call the whig nobilitv, put forward tlie same clain:i in wheat and barley and oat fields ; but these have numbers too ; so that the contest is more equal ; yet, even here, the " patriots of the soil " never struggle wholly in vain ; and, sometimes, they nearly, if not quite, overcome the upstart " Lower Orders.'* 91. In the case of corn, these patriots must, however, be put down, and that, too, from their first appearance; or, at least, as soon as the corn plants are three inches high ; for, the roots of the weeds, small as they may be, do mischief to the corn the moment the weeds show their heads, and even before ; seeing that the root goes down before the head rises above ground. Besides this, the mere act of moving the earth just round the young plant does a great deal of good. 92. Therefore, as soon as the plants are of the SUMMER [Chap. height just mentioned, you take a small hoe, with ir's wife have a dozen of these, there she sits (for she can trust nobody else to do it), with a leathern apron before her, or rather upon her, with balls of barley meal, rolled into an oblong form, and with a bowl of warm milk, or with some greasy water, taking one turkey out of the coop at a time, upofi her lap, forcing its mouth open with her left hand, putting in the balls with her right, and stroking with her fingers the outside of the neck to make them descend into the craw, every now- and- then pouring down a spoonful of the warm liquid, upon the principle that good victuals deserves good drink : there she sits, if she have two dozen of these animals to cram, two good hours at the least. Sometimes they reject the food, and flutter about, and splash the woman with the contents of the bowl. It is always a disagreeable, troublesome, and nasty job; it takes up a great deal of time ; and yet these things cannot be made sufficiently fat, without this operation, in which, I dare say, twenty thou- sand women are at this very moment (eight o'clock in the morning) engaged, in the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk. If all these women could be brought together, and were to hear me say. USES TO WHICH [Chap. and prove, that I could save them all this trouble, they would say " God bless you. Sir ; you " are the best friend (the inventor of tea and " sugar excepted) that ever administered to the " comfort of woman kind." Well, then, this I do for them now ; let their husbands raise some Cobbett's Corn, the leathern aprons may be converted into spatter-dashes for them, the warm milk or greasy water may be given to young pigs, the bowl may be converted into a por- ringer for a boy to eat porridge out of, the coops, well broken up by the pole of the axe, may go to light the fire ; and the four hours saved morning and evening may be employed in spinning and preparing the stuff to make shirts, and shifts, and sheets ; or, which makes less noise, in knitting stockings for the whole family. Every English- man who has been in America, and who does not think that the honour of his country is to be preserved by telling lies about it, will acknow- ledge, that, the pork and the poultry is there the best he ever tasted in his life. I hardly ever saw one so very contemptibly perverse as not to ac- knowledge this ; and here is the sole cause. You will buy a turkey of twelve or fourteen pounds weight for a dollar, that is to say, four and sixpence of our money, while even a woman's wages is not less than from fifteen to twelve dol- lars a month, even if boarded in your house; IX.J CORN IS APPLICABLE. but, you see the thing is got without labour, and therefore it is cheap. 152. Horse feeding. Corn, shelled or in the ear, is the very best food for horses. They will work longer upon it ; they will go quicker upon it, and they will bear heat and cold upon it better than when fed upon any other food. Those who have seen the horses in America, who have travelled in the American stages, who have observed the life with which the horses trip along under a heat, sometimes, of a hundred and six de- grees, which would absolutely kill every stage coach horse in England, will want nothing to convince them of the excellence of this food, which con- tains so much more of nutrition, in proportion to its bulk, than any other thing that a horse will eat, and that he can eat with safety and conve- nience. In America the corn is too valuable to be the sole food, or any part of the food, of farm horses, whicli are, therefore, in case of hard work, fed with rye, barley, or oats ; but, if horses be wanted to perform extraordinary work, such as fine gig-horses, or wanted to travel far in a day, they are always fed upon corn : in quantity about one- third of what we give in oats. When my horse has, in winter time, little to do, I give him a pint in the morning and a pint at night, mixed with a good parcel of finely cut straw; and three times the quantity is at all times enough. Here, there I USES TO WHICH [Chap. is no hay to be dragged out of the rack and to be trampled under foot. If I were a farmer^ even on a doivn farm, having watered meadow at- tached to it, I would never make a handful of hav, that most troublesome, expensive, and most ticklish of all crops. Near great towns, where hay is dear, and where grass is not valuable in proportion, or where the meadows are sure to rot sheep, hay may be made j but, on farms in ge- neral, not one handful can be made profitably. Meadows should he used as pasture ; wholly as pasture. There might possibly be an exception in favour of sainfoin on very poor shallow and hilly land. A little bit of lucerne, near the farm-yard, as summer feed for pigs, horses, and neat cattle ; but, with these exceptions, the corn, with its tops and stalks, used in one shajie or another, most advantageously supplant the hay. Mr. Clark, who has invented the expansion shoe for horses, and who keejis what he calls the V^eterinary Infirmary and Expansion Shoeing Forge, in Hatfield-street, Stamford-street, Black- friars, perceived, when he was in America, how well the horses travelled ivithout shoes ; which led him to think that a great part of the lameness of horses arose in this country, where shoes, from the hardness of the roads, are ren- dered necessary, from the unyielding nature and construction of the shoe. He has, therefore, in- IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. vented a shoe, which expands with the growth of the hoof; and, as far as I am able to judge of the matter, the invention, which is certainly founded in reason, will be found of great value upon experience. I have but just read his state- ment upon the subject; but, though my horse is not a very choice animal, I shall, as soon as con- venient, make a trial of this shoe. Doubtless the American horses may owe something to this circumstance, of being left free with regard to the expansion of the hoof; but I know, from ex- perience, that, with shoes, or without shoes, the corn in the belly is the great hastener and strengthener of the horse, as well as the great preserver of his health. When in Long Island, I lived twenty miles from New York ; I kept, as is the fashion of the farmers in the island, a pair of horses to drive in a light wagon with a pole ; and though this wagon (the nicest thing in this world) is used for all the purposes upon the farm, not excepting stone-cart, and timber- cart (for the sides taken oif it becomes a little timber- carriage) ; though it be very strong, it is, owing to its being made of locust, white oak and hickory wood, in every part, of size so small, a really light affair, not exceeding in weight the common rat- tling English post-chaise. This wagon and pair is kept by every farmer of substance, for car- rying things to market especially ; and, not un- 12" USES TO WHICH [Chap. frequently (twice every week in the year at the least), taking the wife out a visiting, as before mentioned, to take a comfortable cup of tea and a gossip. My horses went very frequently to New York, and were much about on a par, in point of strength and swiftness, with those of the gene- ral run of my neighbours, who, amidst all their long-fac.ed gravity and absence of ambition and rivalship, have, nevertheless, this one species of folly ; that, in going upon the road, it is looked upon as a sort of slur on one, if another pass him, going in the same direction ; and this folly pre- vails to as great a degree as amongst our break- neck coachmen ; and you will see an old Quaker, whom, to look at, as he sits perched in his wagon, you would think had been cut out of stone a couple of hundred years ago ; or hewed out of a log of wood, with the axe of some of the first settlers. If he hear a rattle behind him, you will see him gently turn his head ; if he be pass- ing a tavern at the time he pays little attention, and refrains from laying his whip upon the " creatures," seeing that he is morally certain that the rattler will stop to take " a grog" at the tavern ; but if mo such invitation present itself, and especially if there be a tavern two or three miles a-head, he begins immediately to make provision against the conseciuences of the impa- tience of his rival, \\ ho, he is aware, will push hira IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. hard, and on they go as fast as they can scam- per, the successful driver talking of the ^^ glo- rious achievement" for a week. It would have been a shame to pass two years and a half amongst these happy people without contracting their habits ; and, therefore, my horses, whether driven by myself, by my sons, or by any body else, had their trials upon the road, not less fre- quently, at any rate, than those of other people ; sometimes we were victorious, and sometimes defeated, but never the latter, without pretend- ing that we did not want to go so fast. Until the year 1819, I used to feed as others did, with oats, barley, rye, and cut chaff; but in that year I could not have these without purchasing ; and I had a great stock of corn which I had pur- chased in the ear. My horses had, tljerefore, nothing but corn for the whole of tliat year, un- til the month of November, when I came awav ; and they beat every pair of horses on the road, till at last nobody that knew tliem ever attempted a rivalship. 1 was now, generally, the driver myself; but it was the corn that forced the horses along, and they frequently went to New York, or, at least, to Brooklin, where the ferry is, in less than two hours, which is twenty miles, besides a mile from my house to the road ; and, as 1 wanted no drink myself, I never stopped to give them even water, unless 1 happened to stand in need of a gos- USES TO WHICH [Chap. sip. We well know that we cannot drive a pair of horses, a great deal stouter horses than mine were, twenty miles in two hours in a post chaise, even if the road be as good and level as that in Long Island ; and I never went without more or less of a load. We know, that the boy must stop to water twice in twenty miles, or at least once ; and, indeed, he cannot take you the twenty miles in less than three hours ; and that, even in tem- perate weather, the horses will puff and blow and totter and stumble and quiver in a manner painful to behold. What, then, would such pair of horses, and such post-chaise, do under a sun of from eighty to a hundred degrees of heat ? The corn is mild ; fuller of nutrition than wheat ■itself, quantity for quantity ; it does not heat the animal like rye, barley, or oats ; it does not fill his bodv with bulk, and its mildness does not tempt him to load it with water ', and, we all know what this loading does in adding to the labour or retarding the speed of the horse. It is, however, to be observed here, as in the case of poultry, and neat cattle and sheep, that none of them, or scarcely any of them, take to eating the corn heartily for a day or two. It is very hard, and covered very closely by its skin, and there- fore, does not attract the teeth by its odour, as is the case with regard to grain. Poultry will take it in their bills, and drop it again a little at IX.J CORN IS APPLICABLE. first. Tliey will swallow, for the first day, per- haps, only the small corn or bits of it, that happen to be broken ; but when once they have digested it, they will suffer barley or any other grain, to lie untouched as long as there is a single grain of it within their reach. It is just the same with horses, sheep, and neat cattle ; but pigs, more sagacious than any of the rest, eat it greedily at once, whether they be big or little. I have ob- served, that it needs good teeth. An oldhorse cannot grind it ; at least he cannot grind it well; and, as people frequently purchase horses, which are what they call " aged;" that is to say, when they have lost those teeth, by which you are able to judge precisely of their age, as you are in the case of a sheep^ when people thus purchase horses, or, rather, have them upon trial; and when the horse-dealer, either from want of memory, or from some other accidental cause, gives you a horse as being seven years old, when he may happen to be somewhere between eight- een and twenty-five ; or, to be of any age suffi- cient to have produced the loss or a failure in the strength of his grinders, at a sight of which you cannot very well get ; a very good way to make a trial of the age, is to tender him some corn. If his grinders be not sufficient for the work, he will slobber the corn out of his mouth again ; but if they be good and strong, he will grind it, with a sound that will do your heart good. Gay, USES TO WHICH [Chap. the fable-poet, talks of the carrier who " heard his horses grind with pleasure ;" and it is very pleasant to the owner, to hear them grind heartily and nimbly ; but, I think it is still pleasanter to hear the sheep cracking and grind- ing corn. You scarcely hear the hog at it ; but a hundred sheep eating corn, is, I think, the most pleasant music that ever met the ear of man. An old farmer in Hampshire, who was very rich, and whose silly neighbours were persuading him to have his daughter taught music, said " Na ! talk of muzic indeed ; gi' me two flails and a cuckoo." I dare say, that this saying was as old as the English language. The two flails make a very pretty sound at all times. The voice of the harbinger of summer is also delight- ful 5 but, here was the idea of ivealth most aptly associated with that of pleasant sounds. The cuckoo never comes until old May-day ; and, two flails going in the same barn at that time of the year, indicates that there is a good store of grain in the barn at that distance from the preceding harvest, and that, therefore, the farmer is rich. I like two flails and a cuckoo very well, and they have charmed my heart many and many a time, even when I was a little boy ; but, to hear the sheep grind, in their troughs in the field, while the cuckoo is singing over their heads, is as pleasant to hear, and in this case the thought of the dila- pidations of the rats and mice in the barn, do not IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. come athwart the mind to form a draw-back to the pleasure : the corn is safe in the Crib, where it meets your eye fifty times a day, and where it is safe from those vermin, the thought of which diminishes the pleasure arising from the sound of the two flails. MAN-FEEDING. 153. This is so important a part of the sub- ject, that I feel it to be right, as well on ac- count of convenience to the reader, as on that of showing respect for the superior dignity of the feeder, to give to my paragraphs on this part of my subject, a separate head. I have been frequently asked, by persons who have come to see my field of corn, especially by the ladies and gentlemen who pass the greater part of their lives under the roofs of houses, " Will it make bread, Mr. Cobbett ?" " Why, Ma'am, suppose it do not make bread, but makes bacon, pork, beef, mutton, house-lamb, turkeys, geese, ducks, and fowls ?" " Why, to be sure. Sir, that is a great deal." This has generally been pretty nearly the whole of what has passed on such occasions, which, from my perseveringly shutting myself up, and being at work indeed, have very seldom oc- curred. Rousseau says, " Personne n'aime a ^tre questionne, sur tout les enfans." No body likes to be questioned, and particularly children. 1 5 USES TO WHICH [Chap. Now, I have always had a particular dislike to be tiuestioiied J and this dislike has stuck to me throughout the whole of my life. I thought that my ftill accounts, published beforehand, especially as I was assisted with so much indulgence and real liberality by the editors of several of the news- papers, would have prevented my being exposed to showing what might be interpreted into ill-man- ners towards the visitors of my field. I was mis- taken in this ; and when I duly reflect on the great curiosity that was excited, and the great interest at the same time, I can by no means blame the questioning that I happened now and then to meet with ; and have only to express my regret, if any one received a shorter answer, than that which more leisure and more thought on my part might have induced me to give. To return, if the corn will make meat of all sorts to be finally eaten by man ; and if it will give him horses to convey him about ; and all these, with infinitely less trouble, than he can obtain them by the use of any other crop, what more does he want ? But, it will not only do these things, but give him a great variety of most excellent food, the most convenient, and the most healthy that can be found, to go, directly, into his own mouth and down his own throat, without any interven- tion, other than that of the culinary process. There are a great variety of ways, designated by IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. an equal number of names, in which corn is used as food for man. These are as follows : Grken EARS, SUPPAWN, JMUSH, HoMANV, SaMP, PltD- DiNGs, Cakes, Bread; to which may be added Beer. I shall speak of each of these except the last under different heads, and shall give as plain instructions relative to each as it is in my power to give, at the risk of the reader, when he has heard me out, exclaiming : " Surely this man " was born and bred in a kitchen, and never " did any thing but cook in the whole course of " his life.'' To do justice to myself, however, in this respect, I must observe, that I am not so much the actor here as the historian ; that I am indebted to others for the _§'reater part of my matter, particularly to those " indispensable and vahiable members of civil society," the ladies. 154. Green Ears. I have said a good deal about these ears, as used by the Israelites ; but, I must here give minute instructions with regard to the manner of cooking and eating them. Early in the month of September, or late in August, if you turn aside, or rather open with your fingers, the green husks of the ear, vou will find the grain, apparently bursting with milk. This milk afterwards becomes meal, as is the case with wheat, rye, and other grain. Towards the top of the ear, where the grains are formed last, they will not be arrived quite at their full milky USES TO WHICH [Chap. state. Having ascertained the state of one ear, you need not open the husks of the rest ; the feel of them on the outside will soon instruct you as to their state of forwardness. You strip the ear oft from the stalk by a tear down war dj and you carry a parcel in to be eaten. You now take off the liusks, and, when you have done that, there are two ways of proceeding in the cookery; roast- ing and Ifoiling. Roasted ears, such as those mentioned in Leviticus, are certainly the greatest delicacy that ever came in contact with the jndate of man. In America, where they burn wood upon the hearth, they contrive to have a bright fire, with a parcel of live wood coals on the hearth ; they lay something of iron across the two hand-irons which are used in the fire-place ; sweep the ashes up clean, and then they take the ears of corn aird set them up along in a row, facing the fire, and leaning gently against the bar which they have put across. When one side is brown, you turn the other side towards the fire ; or, rather, you turn them round gradually until the whole be brown ; and when the whole of the grains be brown, you lay them in a dish, and put them upon the table. These are so many little bags of roasted milk, the sweetest that can be imagined ; or, rather, are of the most delightful taste. You leave a little tail of the ear, two inches long, or thereabouts, to turn it and IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. handle it by. You take a thin piece of butter upon a knife, which will cling to the knife on one side, while you gently rub it over the ear from the other side. Thus the ear is buttered ; then you take a little salt, according to your fancy, and sprinkle it over the ear ; you then take the tail of the ear in one hand, and the point of the ear in the other hand, and bite the grains off the cobb. I need hardly say, that this must be done with the fore teeth, and that those who have none must be content to live without green ears ; for, as to taking the grains off with a knife, they are too deeply planted to admit of that ; and if you attempt cutting, you will cut cobb and all. When you have finished one ear, you lay the cobb aside and go to an- other. No wonder that this was ordered to be a meat-offering of the first-fruits unto the Lord : for it is the most savoury, the most delightful, thing that ever was eaten by man. 1 defy all the arts of French cookery, upon which so many volumes have been written, to produce any thing so delightful to the palate as this. So much for the roasting ears j and now for the boiled, which is the general mode of cooking ; which is not quite productive of so delicate a thing to taste ; but, which is productive certainly of the next delicate thing in the world. You gather the ears, and husk them, as before mentioned ; USES TO WHICH [Chap. put them into a pot of hot water, and boil them for about twenty minutes ; then take them out into a dish, put them upon the table, as in the other case, and proceed with the butter and the salt and the biting oif from the cobb, as before. Common people, in America, boil them with fat pork ; and do not use any butter at all, the pork having communicated to them a sufficiency of fat. The Israelites were commanded to smear the roasted ears over with oi/, their countrv being a little too warm to make a bit of butter stick upon a knife ; for this reason too, in most cases, my friends the Yankees content them- selves with the fat imbibed from the pork, which, the reader will please to observe, is not potatoe- fed stuff from Waterford, nor blood-and-gar- bage-fed stuff from the neighbourhood of the slaughter-houses in and about the Wen ; but solid as a rock, and sweet as a violet ; a thing which the most delicate might eat with pleasure, if thinly spread upon bread in the place of butter. Now, contemplate for a moment the use, the value, of being furnished thus, not with mere garden-stuff, at this time of the year, when the old crop is gone, and the new crop is not come. These green ears are bread, and when boiled are used as such, nobody ever tJiiaking of bread to eat with meat, or to eat with tea at breakfast, or at night, if they have green ears of JX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. corn. I remember that, under that day of the month in which I mentioned, in my " Year's Residence," that we had begun upon our green ears, I said, " We shan't starve now." I have mentioned before that I had but five rods of ground planted with corn, and I know that seven of us, six men and a woman, had no other bread for six weeks ; and no otlier meat than " prime pork ;" and no other victuals besides a thumping apple pudding every day. Think of seven per- sons, getting their liread for six weeks from five rods of ground ; and not one of the seven who had not full as good an appetite as falls to the lot of the generality of men. The plat was, in- deed, extraordinarily productive ; and I think it was equal to fifteen rods of the general crops in the fields. But, it was what any man may have over one whole field, and it was no more than what every labouring man may have in his garden every vear of his life, if he have a garden contain- ing five or six rods of grovnid. The ears ripen by degrees. There are always some nmch earlier than the rest : there are ears to be found in a milky state during a space of six weeks, or thereabouts. They grow, indeed, leather harder towards the latter end of the six weeks ; but hungry people like them the better for this, as they have more substance in them, and approach nearer to meal and bread. Any thing oiyrinders USES TO WHICH [Chap. will dispose even of these with great ultimate advan - tage. Here, then, is no flatulentstuff,suchas beans, pease, cabbages, and the like, which are nothing without meat, and generally without butter too. Many a meal have I made upon green ears alone ; and many a hundred thousand meals are made every year in the same manner by people in America, who have always heaps of meat at their command, lliey keep gathering the green ears till the grain is so hard as to resist the thumb- nail ; and then they resort to the various states of the grindings of the corn of the last year. In the culinary process, there are none of those cuUings and pickings and choosings and reject- ings and washings and dabblings and old women putting on their spectacles to save the caterpillars from being boiled alive ; there are none of those peelings and washings as in the case of potatoes and turnips, and digging into the sides with the knife for the eyes, the maggots and the worms, and flinging away about half the root, in order to secure the worst part of it, which is in the middle ; none of those squeezings and mashings and choppings before the worthless mess can be got upon the table ; nor are there wanted any of that tribe of boilers, of skillets, and saucepans, and stewpans and kettles, and a whole heap of stuff, which, in a pretty large house, would, if they were all collected together, after being lugged IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. out from their divers shelves and holes and cor- ners, fill a dung-cart. Nature has furnished this valuable production with so complete a covering, that washings from the purest water cannot add to its cleanness. The husk being stripped off, it is at once ready for the pot. A mess of pease costs three times its real worth in the gathering and shelling; besides, keeping the dinner back, one of the greatest sins ever committed by the lazy and thoughless part of the female kind. Where the dinner is not ready at the proper time, in that house there is no regularity ; and no aifairs, either of the gentle or simple, can have any thing like certainty belonging to them. Here the thing is ready of itself; no going to the mill for the poor man during these six weeks ; no trudging about for the labourer of a Sunday morning to get his flour from the mill ; or, nine times out of ten, from the merciless chandler's shop, where nine times out of ten he has it " booked," and where he meets nine'times out of ten with a ven- dor and booker, with less mercy in the heart than the devil has in his, even according to the worst accounts that we have of the disposition of that infernal sovereign. The green ears are so ready to the hand, so carefully preserved by nature from all sorts of dirt and filth, that we can hardly see the possibility of dirt being got upon them, even by the unfortunate Irish, who have neither forks USES TO WHICH [Chap. nor knives, nor plates nor spoons, nor any thing but a pot in whicli they ])oil the potatoes, and from which they trundle them out upon a board, there to be peeled by hands, with which soap has never come in contact. If they can but get clean water into their pot, and some more water to wash tlie board with, here they may have a clean meal in spite of those who plunder them under pretence of making them free. 155. SupPAVVN. This is neither more nor less than pmTidfje ; that is to say, boiling milk, broth, or water, thickened with corn-flour, in the same way that people in the South of England tlricken them with wheat-flour, and that people in the North of England thicken them with oat- meal. Put into water, this is a breakfast, or sup- per, or dinner for little children ; put into milk or broth, it is the same for grown people ; and here 1 should observe, that, the use of corn- meal or flour in this way or in some other, is invariably recommended by physcians, in case of disorders arising from bad digestion. With milk or broth it is a good strong meal, and quite suf- ficient as breakfast or supper for man to work upon. There ought to be for every working man one good meal of meat in a day. If he be at work at a distance from home, and especially in winter time, for supper it is the most con- venient ; and then, he ought to have bread and a IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. piece of cheese or meat to eat at his work in the middle of the day, besides having meat for sup- per. When at home, or near home, porridge with milk or broth, and corn-flour, is quite suf- ficient for two of the meals. Half a pound of meal ; nay, a quarter of a pound, swelling up as it does, is sufficient for one man for one meal; and the cost of this, at this time, the corn being brought from America, with a heavy duty upon it, is much about one fartliing. A half-penny- Avorth of corn-flour, finely dressed, is quite suf- ficient for two meals a day for a working man, if it be mixed up with milk or good fat broth. I vvil! here relate, how I now manage in my farm-hous ?, where I have to board eight young men and a boy. besides myself, and, sometimes, a helper or two. Let us begin with the dinner ; for that is the basis on which we proceed. We have a little cauldron or boiler hung like a brewing copper, in which there is boiled as much of the very best mutton that I can purchase as the whole can eat for dinner ; there being no limit as to quantity, and there being always a piece left to be cold, in case a stranger should drop in. The meat, toge- ther with dumplings, are put upon the table every day,, or rather upon both tables, just five minutes before twelve, and when the clock strikes, we all go to dinner. When the meat is taken up, the whole of the broth, into which a parcel USES TO WHICH [Chap. of turnips, onions, and herbs have been put during the time the meat has been boiling, is taken out with a ladle and put into a clean thing which I must now fully describe. It is made in the shape of the iron-boiler or cauldron ; but its dimensions are much smaller, and it is flat at the bottom, and has a lid to cover it closely and two handles to lift it by. The broth remains in this until the next morning ; clean water is then put into the cauldron, which soon boils. The tin thing is put into the cauldron along with, or directly after, the water, but there must not be so much water as to be quite so high up as the rim of the tin thing. The water boils first, but the heat which it gives to the broth on the sides and on the bottom, quickly makes the broth boil. In the mean while, the meal is diluted in a part of tlie broth which has been kejjt back for the pur- pose. We breakfast at eight precisely j and, a few minutes before that time, the rest of the broth and diluted meal are poured into the tin thing, which almost immediately boils again. It is well stir- red here, kept boiling for a few minutes, receives three or four spoonfuls of salt, and the porridge is ready. Just before the men come in, the maid lifts out the tin thing, carries it and puts it down upon the breakfast tal)le, and, with a ladle, fills the porringers, in number equal to that of the men, which porringers, each with its IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. spoon, have been placed upon the table-cloth half an hour before ', this is a warm, a hearty, and a most wholesome breakfast, sufficient for any man, let his work be what it may, and lasts him well where his full meal of good meat is only at four hour's distance. Here are no grimy porridge- pots to be lugged backwards and forwards to a fire place, and hung upon cranes or chains ; and causing the gowns, the aprons, and the petticoats, of the maids to be set fire to, or, at the least, to be blacked over with the pots. This is the cleverest thing of the kind that I ever saw in my life.; but by no means any invention of mine, I having learnt it from a la- bourer, who was brought up in a dairy country, where they make use of such things to heat their milk in the making of their cheese ; and as there was neither law nor proclamation against it, I took the liberty to apply it to the making of por- ridge, for which purpose I strongly recommend it to all farmers throughout the^ country, and to every body else who has a parcel of men and boys to feed. The water which remains in the cauldron is ready, the moment the tin thing is taken out, for washing up the milk things and for washing the spoons and porringers ; so that here, not only is the breakfast thus begun, con- tinued, and ended, but the whole of the other morning work is done up clean, and the cauldron USES TO ^^■HICH [Chap. is filled again for the cooking of tiie dinner. Thus we get over two meals of the day without bread; and one of them (for porridge requires none) without beer. The bread is a ceremonious aifair, and occupies a great deal of time, and ca^nnot he had at a miniUe's warning j and the beer, owing to the duties on the malt, is really expensive^ for a quart of porridge, as good as ever was eaten by man, and forming a good and sub- stantial meal, does not cost a quarter part so jnuch as a quart of even poor small beer. At dinner the men have a pint of beer apiece in this winter time, and they have the like at supper, with as much bread and cheese as they choose to eat, the cheese being, if I can jjossibly have it so, made from the milk of my own cows, and is what is commonly called skim-cheese ; besides this, the men have three shillings a week each in money; it costs them about fourpence a week for washing, and the rest they may keep or lay out in clothes. And, this observe, is for the six months of the ivinter. What, then, does that wriggling reptile Bott Smith, of Liverpool, de- serve, for representing me as a niggardly master, while the unfeeling reptile knows that there are hundreds of thousands of miserable manufacturers in the North, who would deem it happiness to be able to blow their bodies out with scab-creating oatmeal and water? Deserve! the indignant IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. reader will exclaim ; he deserves to be crushed by the foot of one of these well-fed men, and to have the stinking remains of him flung upon the dirtiest dunghill in the yard. Just in this same manner, on precisely the same diet, drink and all, I live myself, except that, instead of bread and cheese for supper, I have at supper time (exactly six o'clock), a pint of cold skim milk and a bit of bread, which I take in the Yorkshire fashion (which I learned in the army), " bite and mp ;" that is to say, take a bit of bread in one hand, and the pint of milk, in a mug, in the other, bite off a mouthful of bread, give it a twist or two, and then take a sup of milk j which is a great deal better than soaking the bread in the milk; because the teeth separate the bread, and cause it to receive, in every part, its due proportion of milk. The men would not change suppers with me if they had their choice. I do, indeed, go home to Kensington once a week ; but there I make no change in my mode of liv- ing, except, perhaps, as to the dinner ; and, then, I take whatever sort of meat I find, never eating any garden stuff at all, except the onions and the herbs in the porridge. Now, is there a man on earth who sits at a table, on an average, so many hours in the day as I do ? . I do not believe that there is ; and I say it, not with pride, but with gratitude, that I do not believe that the whole USES TO WHICH [Chap. world contains a man who is more constantly blessed with health than I am. In winter, I go to bed at nine, and I rise, if I do not oversleep myself, at four, or between four and five. I have always a clear head ; I am ready to take the pen, or to begin dictating, the moment 1 have lighted the fire, or it has been lighted for me ; and, ge- nerally speaking, I am seldom more than five minutes in bed before I am asleep. Take such stuff" as this, and put it into a Secretary of State, or Prime Minister, and think of the effect it would produce ! 156. Mush. — This is not a word to squall out over a piano-forte ; but, it is a very good word, and a real English word, though Johtmson has left it, as he has many other good words, out of his Dictionary. It means this ; you put some water or milk into a pot, and bring it to boil, you then let the flour or meal out of one hand gently into the milk or water, keeping- stirring with the other, until you have got it into a pretty stiff" state, after which, you let it stand ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, or less, or even only one minute, and then take it out, and put it into a dish or bowl. This sort of half pudding half porridge you eat either hot or cold, with a little salt or without it. It is frequently eaten unaccompanied with any liquid matter ; but the genaral way is to have a porringer of ]X.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. inilk, and, taking off a lump of the mush at the time, and putting it into the milk, you take up a spoonful at a time, having a little milk along with it ; and this is called mush and milk. But, here is a most excellent pudding, even if there be no milk to eat with it, that is to say, if it be made originally with milk ; and, if there be no milk to be had, as must be generally the case at the houses of the labourers, here is a very good substitute for bread, whether you take it cold or hot. It is not, like the miserable potatoe, a thing that turns immediately to water ; nor is it like a pudding made ol flour and water ^ v.iiich is hard, closely clung together, heavy upon the stomaeh, indigestible, and of course unwhole- some, whence comes the old saying, " Cold pudding to settle your love;" that is to say, to cool a fellow exceedingly, if not to extinguish the source of his passions altogether. The mnsh, so far from being hard and lumpy when cold, is quite light, very much puffed up ; and tliis is the very thing, made of water, and not of milk, which physicians recommend to all persons, who from over eating, over drinking, or any other cause, have feeble stomachs. The corn-meal and flour is wholesome, more so than wheat flour, ia all its states or manners of cooking ; but, this is the manner the most in vogue throughout the United States of America ; and, if a poor man's K USES TO WHICH [Chap. family had plenty of this, even without the milk, he never ought to regret the absence of bread. One great convenience Ijelonging to the mush is, that you may eat it cold, and it most frequently is eaten cold. It may be carried by the workman to the field in a little tin or pewter thing. It is, in fact, moist bread ; habit soon makes it as pleasant and even pleasanter than bread. You cannot make mush of wheat-meal nor of oat-meal. It is better to make it of meal that has nothing but the very coarse bran taken out of it, than it is to make it of the flour ; because, If finely dressed, the mush would be more like dovfjh : the coarser it is, the better it is, so that the large Ijran is just taken out. What a great thing is here, then, for all classes of persons, and par- ticularly for the labourer ! There may be bread made every day ; you may have it hot or have it cold. There is more nutrition than you can get out of the same quantity of wheat meal ; and, does not every one know, how many of those ingenious and laborious creatures, who make all the fine things that decorate our shops, live all the year round upon the meal of oats put into water ! This oatmeal is, at this moment that I am writing (loth November), sold in London at tivelve shillings for the fifty- six pounds; and, corn meal, even with the high duty of thirteen shillings and nine pence a quarter on the corn, IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. might now be sold very well at seven shillincjs for the fifty-six pounds. There is no occasion to wait till our own crops come : there is plenty to be had from America ; and plenty from Canada, too, without any duty that can ever be higher than half a crown a quarter. So that we may begin, in a few months' time, to live pretty nearlv as well, as to the matter of bread, as the Ame- ricans themselves ; except that, \hejiist and equi- table owners of the land and fillers of the seats, will make us pay a tax upon our mush, as they do now a tax upon our bread. It is in this state in particular, that the corn is so great a blessing as food for man : it is thus used in every house in the country : some have not the convenience of making it into bread ; some may not use it in porridge ; homany and samp are in use in some parts of the country and not in others ; but miish is used in every house, whether the owner be the richest or the poorest man in the country. It is eaten at the best tables, and that, almost every day : some like it hot, some cold, some with milk, some to slice it down, and eat it with meat ; some like it best made with water, others with milk ; but all like it in one way or another ; and my belief is that the corn, even used in this one single manner, does more, as food for man, than all the wheat that is groivn in the country, though the flour K 2 USES TO WHICH [Chap. from that wheat is well known to 1)6 the best in the world. Will our labouring ])eople, then, still insist upon lapping up tea-water, expensive vil- lanous tea-water, sweetened with the not less expensive result of the sv/eating bodies, the aching limbs, and the bleeding backs of the Africans ? will they still insist upon blowing themselves out with this costly stuff, which all the world knows has no nutrition in it ? will they insist upon squandering their earnings away on the filthy and heel-swelling potatoes ; when they can here, at a tenth part of the expense, or tliereabouts, without even an oven, and without any plaguing utensil; will they continue to do this, in spite of reason ; in spite of the example of a nation of the best livers in the world; in spite of their own interest and their health ; having nothing to plead ia their defence, except the well-known and not very rare fact, that they never have eaten any of these things ? People, in observing upon conduct like this, generally call it preju- dice ; a very pretty word to supply the place of tvUfulness, obstinacy, ^^e^rer^ewe^^, and brutal disregard of the dictates of reason. They have Vi prejudice against it. It unfortunately happens that they never have a prejudice against any food or drink, to indulge in which is ruinous. I speak of the middle class as well as of the labourers ; for as to the rich, they can squander IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. away with impunity ; but in the other classes it is not only foolish, but insolent, and not onlv insolent, but cviminal, especially in tlie head of a family, to permit this prejudice, or rather this stupid and insolent perverseness, to deprive him of the means of keepuig his family well fed and in health, instead of being exposed to all the ailments arising from poverty of blood, which is occasioned by poverty of living ; and to prevent him also, in many cases, from making that due future provision for his family, which, if he be able, it is his duty to make. Only think of the conduct, only think of the criminal perverse- ness of the mother of a family, when the father is compelled to toil in one way or anotlier from morning till night ; only think of such a mother, insisting upon expending a penny upon tea slops, which have no nutrition in them ; or a ])en!iy on a pound of potatoes, " I do love a mealy potatoe, ma'am," which has oidy a tenth part of nutri- tious matter in it ; that is to say, which has only one pound of nutritious matter out of ten. Only think of such a mother 3 and think still more of the cowardly and the criminal con- duct of the father, that thus suffers her to waste his substancL", and injure his children j and all because, she does love a "mealy potatoe" in her heart, and because she has such a '•'preju- dice " against any sort of meal or flour, that does USES TO WHICH [Chap. not proceed from wheat! But thinking about such a mother is not all that a husband has to do. If reasoning, if persuasion, if enough to con- vince perverseness itself; if means of this sort be tried in vain (and they ought to be tried till all hope has expired), more effectual means ought to be resorted to; and the only means in so desperate a case is that of keeping a tight hand upon the purse-stnngs, which is, indeed, the only remedy ; complete in all its effect?, without noise and without any one disagreeable consequence. With the absence of the means of squandering, the ^^ jwejiidice" is very apt to grow feebler and feebler every day ; and, in this case, the porridge and the mush have all their sweetness, all their utility, and all the saving of labour and expense, at the end of about a month, generally speaking, though, in certain cases, it might last longer. Upon the disappearance of the ^'prejudice" not only might the purse strings be slackened, but that would be accompanied by the agreeable dis- covery that porridge and mush had made a con- siderable addition to the contents. I must, injus- tice to the party, observe, that I do not here speak con amore, as the Italians call it; for my wife has always been ready, not only to imitate every good piece of management of this sort that she saw in America, but has actually made great improvements in two or three instances upon that IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. management, of two of which instances I shall have to speak bv-and-bye. She does not, indeed, abstain from the use of tea and sugar, which I am very sorry for on her own account ; for the expense, the reader must needs think, cannot be an ob- ject with me. But she has never had any pre^ judice about any of the things proceeding from corn. She adopted the several modes of using it immediately upon seeing them ; and never cried up old England on account of its wheat flour, as is the case with scores of perverse wo- men whose husbands take them to America, and who, owing to the perverseness and everlast- ing vvorryings of their wives, come back and starve upon the spot from whence they started. But is it possible that we are to be told, or that we are to think for a moment, that labouring people in England, who do not see a pound of meat from month's end to month's end, will turn up their noses at food which is seen upon the tables of the most opulent people in the best fed country in the world ? O no 1 this will not be be- lieved ; there will be for a while a little contest between the comfortable cup of tea, and the mess of potatoes on one side, and the porridge and mush on the other; but the contest will not last long ; the love of a bellyful and the love of ease, for here the two are combined, will soon set . aside the cups and saucers and the potatoe-pot, USES TO WHICH [Chap. the boil of which is eternal ; and I shall, I dare say, tramp about the country and see scores of fami- lies of round-faced children stufSng away upon one or the other of these articles of food. 157. HoMANY. I never saw, that I know of, any homany ; and it may, for ought I know, be the same thing as isjush. It is the general mode of using the corn-meal in the southern part of the United States, where it is, generally, the sole food of the negroes, and invariably part of the food of the planter and his family, and a great part of it too. The weekly allowance to a work- ing negro, is ten pounds of the jiint-corn, or twelve pounds of the golden-corn. Judge, then, what a nutritious thing this must be, for twelve pounds of it to be sufficient to maintain a working man for seven days: and let it not be supposed the negroes are starved, or even stinted ; for it is the owner's interest to keep his slave well, as much as it is our interest to keep our horses or oxen well. A common working slave is worth from a hvndred to two hundred pounds ; not only his strength, therefore, but his health is a great ob- ject M'ith liis owner ; and we may be well assured, that if a negro could do more work, or be caused to live longer, or in better health, by any other sort of food, he would not live long upon ho- many; something else would soon be discovered; resort would be had to flesh or to some other JX.] CORX IS APPLICABLE. thing that would give the slave better health and more strength. All the blacks on the continent of America, and in the West Indies, are fed upon corn in some one or other of the modifications ; and every West Indian, or Ameri- can, will tell you, that tobacco, cotton, coffee, or sugar, could not be raised to any thing like the extent they now are, without the food that pro- ceeds from corn. 158. SaxMP. This, though not in such com- inon use as porridge and rausli, is verv much used. The corn is thumped (I do not know by what pro- cess), as we do oats, to get the skin off it. This is put into a pot with pork, or any other meat, and boiled, just in the same manner as is followed by the people in the country in the making of pea- porridge. Thev soak the pease over night, and boil them with the meat the next day, and eat the porridge, pea-shells and all. This samp is a food vastly superior to the pea ; all the pulse kinds are flatulent in their consequence; and it is very well known that pease and beans, kidney-beans, lentiles, tares, and, in short, all the pulse kind, if eaten, by man or brute, to any thing approach- ing to excess, are always dangerous, and fre- quently kill. I knew a farmer who was killed by eating Windsor beans along with his men, in the harvest field ; and 1 had a man who died almost K 5 USES TO WHICH [Chap. instantly from the eating of kidney-beans, cooked in their ripe and dry state. There is nothing of this sort belonging to the produce of the corn- plant; and the samp is a great deal more nutritious as well as more wholesomCj than pea-porridge. \\^hen samp is to be made, meat must be boiled wththe cracked corn; audit mustbe well boiled. American Pork is the meat in general ; but the dish might be made delightful to the most delicate palate, by boiling the skinned corn with a scrag of mutton, or a piece of lean beef; far preferable to any thing that we have ])ut upon the best tables luider the name of pea-soup ; though the j)ease be split, and though the soup be strained ; for straining may take place equally well in the case with Samp, which is corn-soup instead of pea-soup. There must be no skins in the Samp, which is not to be merely cracked, but the skins beaten off in the same manner as the Dutch and the Americans beat the shells off from buck-wheat, and as the people in the North of England and in Scotland beat off the shells of oats before they are ground into oat- meal. I saw a windmill in Lancashire, in which I was surprised to see great quantities of the piths of oats cleared from the shell. What they call pearl barley is, I suppose, prepared by the same sort of process. I was first enlightened \, IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. my mind made its first march, m this ajfifair, on board of a little ship, called the Mary, going from Havre de Grace to New York, in the year 1792 (Good God I have I been writing ever since that time !) ; during which voyage, which lasted five or six and forty days, part of Septem- ber, the whole of October, and part of Novem- ber, the *' Good Sloop Mary," burthen ninety tons, or thereabouts, was tossed about upon the ocean, like a cork. x\ll the fowls were dead, in somewhat the way of Tolgol's sheep. It could not be called natural AedAh, indeed, for they were washed to death by the spray and the waves. But, at any rate, they almost all fell to the lot of the sailors. The turkeys did not last a week ; the geese got very poor, in spite of Corn ; we had no pigs ; and some Rouen ducks were the only things that gave us any fresh meat at all during this long and most stormy voyage. There was a Frenchman on board, named Lachaine, who, together with me and my wife, formed the passengers. The Captain, who was a Yankee, and whose name was Grinnell, and who was a most clever, cheerful, and obliging fellow, resorted to all the resources within his reach to furnish us with something that we could eat ; and especially my wife, who, from her peculiar situation, required something other than mere pork and biscuit. One day, he said, " I USES TO WHICH [Chap. wish we could get some Samp ;" but to have samp, the skins of the grains of the corn must be beaten off. Full of contrivances, as all Yankees are, he put some corn into the bottom of a barrel, I think it was, and thumped it with a hand-spike; all done in a very clean manner; and made us some samp ; the eating of which samp, gave rise to a dispute upon a question re- lating to t\\e fair sex, or, as the Irish call them, to the " Jieave7ihj part of the creation ;" the nature and result of which dispute I am induced to give an account of here, for the benefit of both sexes ; and particularly for the benefit of young men. Samp has ascribed to it a quality which has a tendency to produce effects precisely the opj^o- site of those which are aimed at in tlie doctrines and precepts of Parson Malthus, Peter TniMiii.E and Carlile. This may be non- sense, as far as I know, but this is what people say. The Frenchman, notwithstanding his na- tional conceit and pride on this subject of cookery, was delighted with the Samp, which he liked not for his own sake, but because his intended at New York was so very fond of it. \^'^hen a Frenchman is in love, or when he con- ceits that any girl is in love with him, he takes care to tell all the world of it ; and this Frcncli- man had been bragging to ns, from the first mo- ment we saw him, about this intended at New IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. York, who and whose sister were milliners, living and boarding at the house of aMADAME L'Epine, a Yankee woman, who had married a Frenchman. He had told us forty times over, that he was to be married upon his arrival; that every thing was prepared for the nuptials ; he showed my wife trinkets and dresses that he was taking out for the occasion ; he had, besides, in most elegant and curious wrought cages, evei'y species of singing bird known in Europe, not excepting the fau~ rette, which we have not in England, and the nightingale, so very difficult to keep in a tame state. He had all, of full age and plumage, ex- cept the bullfinch ; and not to be deficient even here, he had a nest of young bullfinches, half fledged. He had not excepted even the sparrow, on account, I suppose, not so much for its delightful song, as for its being poetically deemed emblematical of ardour in the affairs of love. He showed us, or at least showed my wife, letters from his intended, expressive of senti- ments at Avhich scarcely any reader will be at a loss pretty accurately to guess. When we came to feast upon the scmqj, we had Miss Hicks served up to us again, piping hot, and J, really out of compassion forLACHAiNE, looking him very j-eriously in the face, said, " But, you don't think that she will wait for you, do vou ?" He was a very good-humoured man ; he was a furrier, who got USES TO WHICH [Chap. skills down from Canada, and carried on a traffic with France. He was easy in his circumstances, but he was on the wrong side of thirty ; and we understood that the girl was only about twenty. When I asked him the question, the spoon ahnost dropped from his hand, and his colpur grew fairly red with anger. ^Vhereupon I perceived that the business was serious; that he was really far gone ; and, still preserving a serious and firm tone, I in- sisted that it was unreasonable to expect that a Yankee girl should wait, not only seven months, but seven days after she was in the mind. He had learned that I had been married only six months before, that my wife was then only eighteen and a half; and that she had been ab- sent from me, and that we had had the sea between us from the age of fourteen to eighteen. Upon this ground he construed my words into an imputation against Miss Hicks ; whom, he in- sisted that I inferred was less endowed with pa- tience than my wife had been. I told him that no such inference was to be drawn ; and that all depended upon country, entirely upon country ; and that I knew that Yankee girls would not wait under such circumstances. The dispute grew very warm ; and at last, in order to put an end to it, we appealed to the Captain. The Captain, who was a married man, and had a family at Boston, had uniformly taken the side IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. of the Frenchman in all the various disputes about country and government, and other matters, with disputes about which we wiled away the time that the "good ship Mary" kept us tossing about; l)ut, in this case, I was not afraid to appeal even to him, so confident was I of a decision in my favour. "Now then," said I, " Captain Grin- XELL, you have heard the whole story, do you think that AIiss Hkks will wait for Monsieur Lachaine, or do you not?" Both of us looked hard at the Captain, and Lachaine with mani" fest anxiety and fear, though he put on a smile. The Captain, clapping his two elbows upon the table, folding his hands together, and looking in a very pleasant manner, Lachaine in the face, said, " I am sorry. Monsieur, to decide in the favour of this d — d saucy Englishman ; but, I know my countrywomen ; and, at that age, 1 know that they 2vill not keejy." My wife, who had taken a warm part with the Frenchman, it being a case in which the sisterhood were concerned, exclaimed "For shame. Captain Grinnell, and you a married man too." As to Lachaine, while he applauded this indignation of his advocate, and affected to laugh at the decision, he was manifestly stricken to the very heart. He, from that moment, drooped down into a silent and sad individual, and there was not a smile upon his face for the remainder of the voyage, which lasted another month. By USES TO WHICH [Chap. this time, his singing-birds began to die ; the black-bird was found dead one morning, the thrush another ; another morning the lark, and the linnet, and two or three others ; and so on, till all were dead except the young bullfinches, which my wife had fed, and which were fledged, and had got their fine plumage before the end of the voyage. I told the Captain (for the name of ]\Iiss Hicks was never more mentioned to La- chaink) that this dropping off of the birds was a type of the waning passion of Miss Hicks. At last the voyage ended, and we were, agreeably to an in- vitation a month old, to go and dine, or sup, whichever it might be, at IMadame L'Epine's, and to be introduced to the intended. To I\Irs. L'Epink'swc all went; and that lady took my wife aside, even before she had got into the par- lour. She soon joined us ; and, pulling me aside, she whispered in my ear, *' IMiss Hicks is married." I was going to burst out ; but she gave my arm a pinch, and I held my tongue. Mrs. L'Epine gave us some fine oysters, fried in batter, which we all gobbled up as fast as we could ; and J, giving the Captain a pull and a wink, said that I must take my wife immediately down to the house of a friend who was waiting for us ; for which lie I beg pardon, for Grinnell and Lachaixe were the only two persons in the country that I knew even the names of. Coming IX.] CORN IS APPJJCABLE. out at the door, the Captain sighed out, " Poor fellow !" sliook me by the hand, and off we went, leaving Lachaine and IMrs. L'Epine to their agreeable eclaircissement. I saw the Frenchman, a few years afterwards, at Philadelphia ; he was quite an altered creature, looked to be three score and ten, and, withal, had got into poverty; and I have not the smallest doubt, that it was the cruel disappointment that he experienced that was the principal cause of this unfavourable change. Let every young man remember this, and particularly if he intend to have for his wife a native of New England, New York, or New Jersey. As Grinnell said, they will not keej) ; they are good, they are beautiful, they are kind, they make dutiful, cleanly, and good-managing wives ; they are virtuous towards their husbands, they are excellent mothers, and are deficient in none of the duties of good neighbourhood and hospi- tality : but if, after arriving at the age of sixteen, you once put it into their heads that *you intend to marry them, keep they will not. 159. Puddings. This is an article which, in England, causes a large part of the consump- tion of the whole of the wheat flour. Puddings are more in fashion in England than in America. They must have been of Saxon or British origin; for we not only do not meet with them in France; but Frcnchm.en, who, instead of being the most USES TO WHICH [Chap. polite, are, when cookery is talked off, the most rude people in the world ; and, w-hile sitting within the smell of one of their own kitchens (for not to smell it, you must get out of the house, be it as big as it may) ; while sitting within the smell of one of these, which is a sort of mixture, between fragrance and a stink ; and, while I think of it, there is a place of this sort in Cockspur-street, where the kitchen is under the causeway, having some little gratings in the causeway, for the escape of the fumes ; I am sure, that, to fifty different persons, or, at least, fifty different times, in walking over those grat- ings, I have said to some one or more that were with me, " which of two things that one could name does that smell most like?" The French, even within the smell of one of their kitchens, will talk of English cookery, as if it were taken for granted (which is the most insolent thing in the world), that we know not how to pre- pare the victuals for our own eating. The very lowest of them behave in this same manner, Mr. CuRWEX, in his book about the uses of milk, and the keeping of cows, says, that, when he was somewhere in the North of France, he happened to see a decent leg of mutton hanging up for sale ; and that, not having had a real good meal of victuals during several weeks, he snapped at the joint, bought it at any price (and he would IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. be sure to be cheated), and carried it to the iim where he was going to lodge for the night, telling the landlady to cook it for his dinner, with some turnips : the landlady had not the smallest objec- tion to this, resolving, I dare say, in her own honest heart, to make the " Mi Lor " pay full as much for his dinner as if he had not bought the mutton ; for, all English people should know that, though the French, generally speaking, are very honest people, the very word honesty is totally unknown to the keepers of inns for the entertainment of travellers. Le(/ of mutton is, in French, called gigot de mouton. Tiie land- lady asked Mr. Curwen, in what manner he wished to have the gigot dressed ; he told her to hoil it for such a length of time, and to Ijoil the turnips in clean water, till they were soft, then to take them out, squeeze the water out of them, and then mash them up with some fresh butter. The woman stared at him all this while, as if she thought him mad; and when he had finished, she exclaimed, " Comment, Monsieur! *' faire bouillir le gigot ? " " Yes," said he ; *' boil it, I say, and boil the turnips soft, " good woman, mash them well, and put some " good butter in them," his mouth, I dare say, watering as he spoke. The landlady rejoined; " pour les navets, Monsieur, a la bonne " heure; mais, pour le gigot, je vous en prie, USES TO WHICH [Chap. *' done, Monsieur !" putting her hands together, and turning up her eyes, after the manner of the supplicators of her country. Poor CuiiwEN, beginning to be alarmed for his dinner, remon- strated with her, when she launched out into all sorts of abuse of such cookery, saying, amongst other things, that it was only fit for the worst of dogs. He observed to her, that it was lie who was to eat the mutton, and not any body else ; that it was one of the things that he was most fond of, and that all his countrymen were of the same taste ', and that, therefore, especially as he was quite willing to pay for his dinner, just as if she had bought the meat, and as it was a very simple thing to do, and that he would have no objection to do it himself, if she would give him a pot and some water, he did hope (the poor fellow began to tremble for his dinner), that she, who appeared to be so amiable a person, would indulge his caprice, thougb it might appear rather unreasonable, or in bad taste. While he was thus remonstrating, the conceited and obstinate devil was studying her reply ; and, at the conclusion of his supplication, she said, being a little softened by his flattery, and he being so sweet-looking a gentleman into the bargain, "pour les navets, je le ferai bien, pour vous faire plaisit; mais, pour Xeyiyotje ne lefcraipasV' Stretching out her two arms, lii'ting her hands IX.] CORN IS AVPLICABLE. above the top of her head, bringing them down as low as her knees, and the pahns upwards : "^ je ne le ferai pas ! " Laying a tripUcate emphasis upon the word PAS. I will not do it ! That word " not" thus pronounced, including in it the meaning of " I'll be d— d if I do." The poor " mi Lor" was compelled to submit, and to eat his gigot, slivered up and served to him in some ''■fricot," with all manner of herbs and spices, and sweets and sours ; and cooked in the melting of some bacon fat, till at last it had no more the taste of mutton, than it had the taste, I dare say, of any other sort of meat that she could have cooked him. There is something quite astonishing at this insolence of the French, who are in general ready enough to imitate the follies and the vices of the English ; and, in nothing does this insolence so frequently ap- pear as in their commentaries on our puddings. They call them lum2:)s of dough, in their language " de la pute." When I first went to the United States, there was a French lad, who boarded in my house, and, of course, he very frequently had puddings put before him. He used to re- coil at the sight, shake his head and shrug up his shoulders, and exclaim " de la p^te," instead of which he wanted bread; and, situated as we were, amidst a scarcity of yeast, not near a baker's shop, his taste became troublesome. I USES TO ^VHICH [Chap. used no coercive means to make him swallow the pdie ; but, put within his reach nothing but the meat and the jhlte ; and he was too polite «)r too prudent to make any positive remon- strance ; so that, at the end of about a fort- night, he took very kindly to the pate, which, by that time, he called pudding ; and at the end of a month, or thereabouts, the fellow actually complained if there were a dinner without pudding ; that is to say, he expressed his regret or disappointment at it, and used to slip away from his lessons in the morning, to go and beg my wife to make a pudding for dinner ; and no wonder, for they were of great variety, made in the best manner, and of the best materials. This defence of English food is not necessary to satisfy ourselves of the value and utility of puddings amongst people in general ; but, I think it necessary to show, how very useful the practice of making them must be, in the families of those, where not only money, but fuel and time are of so much importance. It very frequently happens that a poor man is short of fuel to heat his oven. In the country, you must sometimes go miles for yeast; and then, you must sometimes be in a state of uncertainty of getting it at all : you must wait, perhaps, for many days, in order to receive it liy the carrier from the next big IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. town. Here is another evil that has arisen out of the heavy taxes on malt and on hops, and out of the cruel prohibition preventing the poor man from raising his own hops ; and gene- rally out of that terrible taxation, and that sys- tem of degrading the labourers, which was carried by Pitt to that state of perfection in which ic has ever since remained. ISIr. John Ellman, an old farmer of Sussex, said, in his evidence before a Committee of the House of Commons, in 1S21, that, vvhen he began farming, forty years before that time, EVERY LABOURER^ OF THE PARISH BREWED HIS OWN BEERj and that now NOXE of them did it, except now and then a man to whom he himself gave the malt. Would not a House of Commons chosen by the people at large j would not such a House of Commons, upon reading this evidence of Mr. Ellman, have voted unanimously, " that this " House will never separate, until it has di- '' gested a plan for inquiring into the cause of *' this dreadful change ?" W^hen every poor man brewed his own beer, yeast could never be wanting in any neighbourhood. But, even then, the time was as valuable as it is now, and more valuable, and the same may be said of the fuel. To make a pudding and boil it (for it may be of all sizes, from that of your fist to that of your head) is the work of not much more than an hour. USES TO WHICH [Chap. The wife and the whole family are a reaping, we will say. Knowing that there is no Inead at home for supper, she pops off home, turns some of the flour into puddings of some sort, and there they are for supper. In Norfolk, and par- ticularly in Suffolk, the farmer's wife is never in much distress about bread, the place of which she suj)plies by dumplings ; and, perhaps there is no way in which the flour yields more nutrition than in this. To carry to the field, pudding is not so good as bread ; but a hungry man gets it down very well, though it is apt to " settle the love" of people of feeble digestion. I can remember many a score days of my life, when I had the honour to serve His Majesty, that I called to mind, almost with tears in my eyes, the hard dumplings and skimmer cakes, which I used to eat when 1 was a boy ; for, it is to be observed, that in those my military days, though our com- manders were so nice that it nearly required a certificate of good moral character, though they used to make us swear before they would accept of our voluntary offers, that we were not, and never had been, chimney-sweeps, colliers, or miners ; that we were not papists, that we were not Irishmen, and that we were not troubled with Jits, including love fits, for ought I know to the contrary. Although they were so nice in their choice, and would insist in having straight IX] CORN IS APPLICABLE. and tall fellows, and used to stare in our eyes to see if we squinted, or were near sighted, and to rummage our bodies about, having us laid down upon a bench stark naked, to discover if we had any latent disease; though they were so nice as this in their choice, and though the average of a whole battalion in those times far surpassed the round-shouldered, and frequently bandy-legged, company of creatures now called grenadiers ; though they culled us with such care, they gave us less than half as much pay as that which they give to the hundred thou- sand lovely youths that they have now got to- gether ! Besides which, they gave us no meat at fixed prices that would have made us disre- gard the sufferings of the poor people of the vicinage where we might be (juartcred. There were only about sixteen thousand of us alto- gether ; and those had not half as much to live upon per week as the settled wages of a common labouring man who had no children ; while, at present, the common foot soldier has more than twice as much as the magistrates allow to that labouring man. I am aware, that no introduction of corn, that no management with regard to the application of the flour, that no prescription for the making of puddings, will re- move this grievance, which cries to heaven for redress ; but, as I observed in " Cottagk Eco- L USES TO WHICH [Chap. NOMY," this evil must be redressed sooner or later ; or, this nation is destined to experi- ence ruin and convulsion ; and that, therefore, it is my duty, having the power to do it, to pro- vide, before hand, advice that may be use- ful when the days of redress shall arrive. Of the use of puddings in general I have spoken ; I .am now to speak of those made of corn-flour. In Amkrica, they deal more in the mush that I have described, which is equally useful with the puddings, made with more expedition, and a greater saver of time. Besides, they do not, habitually, dress the flour into a very fine state ; thev take out just the coarse bran, and mix the rest, either with wheat or rye flour, in the making of bread ; or, they use it amongst families, of all ranks in life, in the shape o( jj07'- ridffs, mush, homany, or narnp 5 or, as it will be presently seen, in cakes. They care little about PUBJHNGS ; but ice care a great deal about tliem. In mv family, and of course under the direction of my wife, we have, in the first place, suet pud- dings boiled. Latter puddings boiled, Yorkshire puddings baked under meat; and baked puddings, in which the corn-flour supplies the place of ground rice : we have all these puddings in the greatest perfection, made icholly of corn-flour. Last Sunday (9th Nov.) we had, at Kensington, as fine a suet pudding as I ever tasted in my life IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. (and in iMs article I am both professional and amateur) ; and the very finest batter pudding that I ever tasted, and so said every one that tasted it, and two of the party were not of the family. The manner of making these pud- dings, is precisely that of making them with wheat-flour. But, two observations are necessary : the suet pudding (the flour not being so adhesive as that of the wheat) requires to be boiled in a cloth or bag. This is generally the case with all puddings of this sort in genteel families, though when boiled in the dumpling way the cloth is dispensed vrith. The other observation is, that, in all these states, more water or more milk, that is to say, a greater proportion of these, must be used, than are used in the case of the rice in one instance, and in the case of the wheat- flour in the other instance. The corn- flour is more nutritious, pound for pound, than the wheat-flour ; and this is proved by the fact that it requires a greater quantity of water or milk to make it into dough, or into any given state of moisture. The exact proportion of milk or of water to be used, in the making of puddings, I do not know, nor is it necessary that 1 should; for every person, who understands the making of puddings, and v.-ho is not perverse, will know very well in a short space of time the quantity of milk or of water necessary in all these cases. l2 USES TO WHICH [Chap. Say to "Mrs. Cook," "here is some corn- flour, Cook ; make a batter pudding of it." She will at once declare it to be impossible ; " Quite " impossible, ma'am ! I never saw such a thing *' in my life." If she have a little sense, and particularly if she be saving money to get married, and is given to understand that you mean to have the pudding made, and properly made, the will be converted by the end of the week, especially if you give a hint, that though she is a very good cook, and though you like Ijer extremely well, you must havk the pud- dings. Of course, I mean that the corn- flour in these cases of butter puddings, ground rice puddings, and Yorkshire puddings, and also <»f suet puddings, if you make them with plums, is, to have its share of eggs honestly allowed it ! J am not pretending, or contending that the corn-flour contains eggs within itself; and there- fore I must strongly protest before hand, against ** Mrs. Cook" leaving out the eggs, or any part of them, and putting them by from her natural desire, which she so rigidly carries into practice, to spare the purse of her master ! No, no, let us have our due share of the eggs, and we shall liave better puddings ; I say better ; I repeat the word better expressly, and I will abide by the judgment of any ten women who are worthy to be entrusted with the management of a family. IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. Let any man consider, then, the vast importance of corn to this country, on scarcely any table in which there is not, every day in the year, one or more of the above named puddings, and this is a fact well known to us all. At both my places, Barn Elm and Kensington, I have altogether fourteen servants, four of v/hom are of the delicate sex ; there are three others of the same sex ; then there are ten servants who are of the more rude sex, and are no cripples at eating, and four men who are not servants ; so that here are, reckoning myself and the other members of my own family, altogether twenty-two persons. I now purchase my corn at Mark Lane, my own being saved for seed ; and J calculate, that, by the use of corn-flour, instead of wheat-flour, I, at this time, save a clear sixty pounds sterling a-year, with better and more plentiful living than we could have if we had not the corn-flour. It is a maxim with me never to stint as to quantity J never to attempt to set a limit. It is also a maxim with me, and to which I have invariably adhered throughout the whole course of my life, never to purchase any thing but of the very best quality; be it what it may, fuel, meat, flour, bread. Food for cattle, every thing of the very best quality; and this I do upon a principle of frugality and of saving in the result, and not from any generosity or liberality that I set up preten- USES TO WHICH [Chap. sions to. I wish as much as other people, after securing the point of good living, to go to work in the cheapest manner I can. The fattest of bacon and of pork, and the fattest of all other sorts of meat ; and either fatting the animals myself, or purchasing them from the fatter, or from only one remove, or two removes at most, from him. I regulate myself by the season of the year ; but for the greater part of it, in the cases where I am not the fatter myself, I stop the whole carcass in the hands of him who kills the ani- mal. Then, again, in the sort of meat, I do not deal very largely with poulterers, nor with fish- mongers. Billingsgate is troublesome and tick- lish ; and as to poultry of any sort, they come from the country by scores, dead or alive, when J have a fancy for them. To be sure, in the former case, there is a very swift succession of poultry ; and it is somewhat the same in the case of meat. I remember a prig of an attorney, whose good, plain, and industrious father, who was a farmer, had sent him up to London to make him a gentle- man, saying, that his father used to kill his own meat, and that it was " all baa one week, and maa another week ;"and, thou foolish beast, where was the harm of that ? The harm was, that your fru- gal, and kind, and foolish father deprived himself of many things which he ought to have enjoyed in the latter part of his life, and, indeed, nearly IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. during his whole life, in order that he might be able to puff you up into something with the name of gentleman attached to it, that you might render his conduct the subject of ridicule, and by impli- cation libel his memory. 1 did not tell the prig this ; but I told him to remember, that if his fa- ther had not killed his own meat, that which made him now an attorney, and gave him a good solid estate (which his father had left him), would have gone, in part at least, to the fitting- out of retail butchers with gigs, their wives Avith fine clothes, and their daughters with pianos. It is very much "moo" one week, ^^ grunt" the next week, " baa" another week, and " maa" another; but let the shameless wretch, who thinks this a hardship, look not at the farmer's labour- 62 8 who eat solid fat bacon or pork, from the morning of one Christmas-day to the evening of the next Christmas-eve ; but let the despicable the affectedly luxurious wretch, look at the boys of Winchester-school, who, generally, have been brought up luxuriously enough ; but who, at that school, never taste any meat but mutton, from the day they enter it to the day they leave it. I mention, I return to, and I dwell upon, this mode of feeding a large family with the more earnestness, because meat is the most costly ar- ticle in supporting a family, and because I am convinced that this mode of doing the thing pro- USES TO WHICH [Chap. duces, every thing taken into account, a saving of full one-half. Let that be thought of by a tradesman, who has a large family, and who lays his account with toiling twenty or thirty years in order to obtain a competence. The saving in such a case is a fortune in itself; and if a man ^o situated, suffer himself to be, by any of those impertinent whims called prejudices, diverted from pursuing the dictates of reason, he ought, jn justice, to lead the latter part of his life in a state of penury, if not in a state of want. The same reason applies in every particular to the use of corn-flour, in preference to that of wheat, especially in this case of puddings ; the relative cost, will at all times, be one-third at least against the wheat-flour. At present, with our scarcity of wheat, and, with the want of knowledge, generally speaking, as to the use of the corn-flour, the difference in the expense is quite enormous ; and, this being so clearly on the side of the corn-flour, where is the man, who has not money actually to fling away, to find an apologv for not insisting upon the use of corn- flour in his family ; and that too, when his own palate convinces him that it is better than the other ? We all know what a fuss has frequently been made in time of dearth, to get substitutes for bread. Rice amongst other things has been resorted to. Rice is a poor meagre feeble thing, DC.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. hardly sufficient to sustain life in a labourer, especially in a country where the exertions of the body are necessary to keep that body warm in the open air. It does very well for creaturej* that loll about in the sun ; but never can be sufficient, in whatever quantity, and however cooked, to give due support to the frame of the labouring man in a climate like this. Vet, the arrival of a few ship-loads of rice has sometimes been a subject of almost universal congratulation. Rice is far from being half so good as corn j vv^hich any one will discover fronj making a pudding from each, ground rice and corn-flour, taking a pint of each, baking them both in the ame oven, and tasting them on the same day. If the rice pudding be baked in a manner to make it sink in the middle, you will see a limpid eatery stuff on the top of the pudding ; but in the case of the corn pudding, over-baked iii the same degree, you will find the top covered with a species of jelly, and, when you cut it across, resembling custard. This corn-flour, is^ too, the best for tlit making of custards, which, ought not to be adhesive. Most people know that custards are made of eggs, milk, and flour ', very little of the latter in proportion to the eggs and the milk. The corn-flour, being sweeter than that of the wheat, is better for this purpose ; and, I wish all my readers, who have tlie L 5 USES TO WHICH [Chap. means, only to try this flour in the making of custards. At present, indeed, they cannot get the flour ; for, e\ en Mr. Sapsford, baker, cor- ner of Queen Ann and Wimpole-streets, IMary- le-bone, who has been the first to have the corn ground to make bread and for sale as flour, can, as yet, have very little to dispose of j seeing that there are no samples at Mark-lane, worth speak- ing of, and those very bad, coming from Sicily, and other parts of the iMediterranean ; and poorly ripened corn, perhaps, into the bargain. But, when the Amekicans find that the people of England are disposed to use corn-flour, and when the millers in England, have found out the way to grind it for that purpose, they will soon pour in the fine and sound corn, notwithstanding the duty ; and we shall buy it and eat it, not- withstanding that duty. In the mean while the Canadians can send it in at all times, nearly duty free, as I have before observed. So that, this discovery would be a terrible blow on the landowners, supposing tlie farmers to join in one body, and bind themselves by a curse, never to cultivate this plant. 160. Cakes. — Bread at a moment's ivarningy or something equal in nutriment to bread, is the desirable thing to obtain, on account of the vari- ous contingencies before mentioned, which must always affect more or less, the making of bread. IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. One of the great advantages of puddings is, that they convert flour into a substitute for bread in an hour ; but, as I have observed before, one objec- tion to them is, that they cannot be carried to the field so conveniently as bread. It is not thus with Cakes, which, without yeast, or leaven of any sort, are made of the corn-flour and baked with very little trouble. A Yankee will set hunger at defi- ance, if you turn him into a wilderness with a flint and steel, and a bag of corn-meal, or flour ; and he likes the meal best, because it adlieres together less closely than the corn-flour. He comes to the spot, where he means to make his cookery, makes a large wood fire xipon the ground, which soon consumes every thing combustible beneath, and produces a large hfiap of coals. While the fire is preparing itself, the Yankee takes a little wooden or tin bowl (many a one has done it in the crown of his hat), in which he mixes up a sufficient quantity of his meal with water, and forms it into a cake of about a couple of inches thick. With a pole he then draws the fire open, and lays the cake down upon where the centre of the fire was. To avoid burning, he rakes some ashes over the cake first ; he then rakes on a suitable quantity of the live embers ; and his cake is cooked in a short space of time. Now, such cakes can be made of wheat-flour, or of rye- flour, or of the meal of either of these ', but the USES TO WHICH [Chap. flour of these heing so adhesive, the cake becomes so hard that it can be ground by scarcely any teeth that are to be found in the head of man. Tlie corn-flour and the corn-meal, the latter still more than the former, make the cake light and somewhat spongy ; and, these cakes supply the place of bread even by the choice of the consumers, in instances innumerable; and it is contended by many persons, and is, I believe, the general opinion in Amerk A, that they are better for the health, than bread that has been fermented. At any rate, hundreds of thousands prefer this kind of bread ; and, though it is attended with a little more trouble than the making of puddings, it is more convenient for carrying into the field or on a journev ; and will, for these reasons, be fre- (luentlv preferred. The people in Lancashire, have not this cake-making to learn. They have no oven, I mean the poorer sort ; but they make lakes of oatmeal, which they put into a frying- pan, or upon a smooth piece of iron, which they put over their fire. These cakes are seen in the lunises of those who are, comparatively, well off. 'J'hey are served at the tables of inns, in company with bread 3 and many persons take the former in ])reference. These cakes appeared to me to be about the thickness of, and not very different in qua- lity from, that large piece of leather which a coal carter has hanging down from his poll to protect IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. his shoulders against the rubbings of the sack, and the back of his neck from the beatings of the rain. They are about the same colour, too, by the time they come off from the fire ; and, if a coal carter were hard pinched for a poll-piece, I should think, that a Lancashire oat-cake might prove a welcome succedaneum. At any rate, and to speak without the smallest exaggeration, they are unleavened bread of the very coarsest and poorest kind, while the meal of which they are made actually costs twice the sum, at this time, that the meal of corn, so nutritious and so plea- sant to eat, would cost the parties. I should hope, therefore, that the merchants of Liver- Pool, especially as the thing would comport so perfectly with their own interests, would not let these poor people wait for the obtaining of corn- meal from plants grown in England. Nothing can be so easy as the introduction of the thing. There is nothing to be done but to send a bag of corn meal to any manufacturing town, and to send a dozen cakes ready made, along with it. These may be baked in the oven of any baker in Liverpool J and the thing might all be done, and the suffering arising from the dearth of flour and of oat-meal in a considerable part removed by this winter's importation of corn. I have mentioned the make-shift manner of obtaining these cakes j but, they may be obtained in any USES TO WHICH [Chap. (}uantity by being put into the oven ; and, in the Southern States of America they form a very large part of the bread, even of j^ersons in the most opulent circumstances, who, in many cases, actually prefer this unleavened bread to bread that has been made by a process that includes fermentation. 1 do not say that I pi'efer it; because I care so little about the matter ; but I should think it no hardship ; it would be a thing that I should not think worth a moment's thought, if a law were passed to compel me to refrain from fermented bread as long as I lived ; and, observe, 1 am not like fat Mrs. Tomkins, who (as I once related in the Rkgister), says to fatter Mrs. \\'iLKiNs, " If I have but a potatoe, Ma'am, I never \\ant a bit of bread to my dinner." Now, I, on the contrary, never want either to see or to hear of a ])otatoe; and it is rare indeed that I touch garden-stuff of any sort. So, that I should find no relief by resorting to the garden ; and yet, if a halfpenny were tossed up, heads for bread and tails for corn-cakes, I would not, really, give myself the trouble of looking to see whether it came down heads or tails. Far different, with regard to wheat-cakes, or rye-cakes, or oat-cakes, they being lumpy stuff which I by no means admire. Think, then, once more, of the benefit to the labouring man. He and his family come home from reaping, or from any other work. A little IX.] CORN IS APPICABLE. bit of fire gives him cakes in an hour ; an- other prepares other cakes to take a-field ; and I say, that that gentleman, who, having the knowledge himself, would not take the pains to instruct the labourer to do this thing; but, know- ing how to prevent it, would suffer him still to run on tick or tally, at the chandler's shop, where there is a profit charged even upon the profit of the baker ; I say, that such a gentleman (if gentleman he can be called) ought to share the fate of Dives, and to be answered by this poor man, as DrvEs was when he appealed to Abra- ham to allow the poor man of his day to bring a drop of water to cool his tongue. When one reflects on the time which has been spent, on the books that have been published, and on the schemes which have been hatched and attempted to be put into force for providing food for the needy in times of dearth ; when one reflects on the regulations, which, with this view, have been adopted in large public schools, such as Christ's Hospital, which by-the-bye is said to have been founded by the Protestant king Edward the Sixth, though it was founded by our Catholic ancestors six hundred years before the birth of that pious infantine tyrant, who saw the first paupers ever known in England, and who, instead of a law to provide relief for them, passed a law for the burning of them in the USES TO WHICH [Chap. forehead, and for making them slaves to wear chains with iron collars round their necks ; facts which I dare any man with a name and reputa- tion to deny in print : when one reflects on the regulations in schools like this for the saving of bread in times of dearth of that article ; when one reflects on regulations of a similar kind, in poor-houses and the like : when one thus reflects, must it not be a subject of joy, to perceive that here is a thing, come as propitiously, and almost as wonderfully, as if it had dropped from the skies, to put an end for ever, to the neces- sity of all these regulations, and to all the dis- putation, and all the ill blood between the rich and the poor, arising from compulsory regula- tions as to food ? If, in the year 1 800, corn had been grown in England ; or, even if its uses had been generally known, at the time when the nation was paying enormous premiums on the importation of human food, we should not, indeed, have had, in the amiable person of Mr.VANSiTJART (now LordBfiXLEv), a " CVw- missioner of Scotch Heinings ;" nor should we have had any of those heart-cheering paragraphs and books, written for the purpose of showing what delicious food, what delicious and nutritious food the English people, if it were not for their prejvdkes, might obtain by the potatoes of the Irish and the herrings of the Scotch ; " the JX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. former (as the Reverend Mr. Agutter most feelingly told us) placed at the bottom of the kettle, or rather to within two inches of the top; and then a fine heiring laid on them, and sending its gravy (coming from guts and all, mind) gently trickling down through the potatoes, even the skins of which were made so mellow bv the process, as to make it impossible for any human being to reject them : " we should indeed, never have heard of these things ; nor should we have heard of some half score of mem- bers of parliament, that I could name, being reproached on the hustings, by the mass of the people, with their attempts to cram this Irish and Scotch diet down the throats of Englishmen. These things we never should have heard of; but if we had had the corn, we might have dis- pensed with the honour of having a " Commis- sioner of Scotch Herrings," and with the dish, exquisite as it was, as described by the eloquent pen of the Rev. Mr. Aggutter. The soup- shops indeed, and the passports to the kettle, which gentlemen and ladies carried about in their pockets, one would not have wished to be deprived of, being, as they were, a source of ever- lasting fun. But, there was one thing which We should have totally lost, or at least, should never have enjoyed j namely, that decisive proof of the " wisdom of Parliament," the passing of USES TO WHICH [Chap. ters abroad, is, " in every thing equally wise." Then, like the proboscis of that wonderful animal, the elephant, while it has strength perfectly ter- rific to think of, its touch is so delicate as to enable it to analyse particles the most minute ; while it can, this minute, vote away millions of the nation's money, command palaces and churches to rise up, a quarter of a continent to be forti- fied, or the jails and dungeons to fly open to re- ceive such Englishmen as the Secretary of State may, or shall, suspect of evil designs ; it can, the very next minute, skip, as nimbly as the bee does from the magnolia to the pimpernelle, to objects the most diminutive, and can point out to those who have the happiness to live under its con- trol, the exact depth proper for a shop-window; the exact number of passengers proper for a coach to carry, lest those who wished to be car- ried might not know, or care, whether their per- sons were in danger or not ; the exact degree of coercion proper to be employed for the purpose of inducing horses, asses, oxen, cows, sheep, and pigs, to proceed on the roads and in the streets; the exact place and manner in which to unbut- ton so as to avoid an " exposure of the person ;" the exact number of beatings of a pendulum, in a heat of sixty degrees by Fahrenheit's thermo- meter, necessary to determine the length of the *' Imperial yard," and the capacity of the " //«- IX.] CORN IS APPLICABLE. perial gallon ;" and to be brief (for a volume like this would not suffice for the whole), it can as- certain to a nicety how many square inches and quarters and eighths of inches of paper, will pre- vent that paper from receiving- matter of a ten- dency to bring the Collective into contempt ; and to ascertain, with equal precision, how many farthings (as the price of a printed paper) are required to prevent it from being bought and read, in case of failure in the efficacy of the just- mentioned geometrical precaution ! " In every thing equally wise 3" but if any one (and I hope some one ivill) were to make a collection, and a record, of the instances of it sat once " omnipo' tent" and all-searching and all-touching at- tributes J its surprising knowledge in the affair of mill-stones, flour, meal, pollard, bran, sieves, bolting-cloths, yeast, leaven, sponges, fermenta- tions, dough, and crust and crumb, will not, the reader may be assured, be the least instructive, and especially the least entertaining ; and, as I observed before, this would never have been eli- cited had corn been generally grown in England, or had the uses of it been generally known amongst us. 161. BreaT). This, from the almost universal use of it, is generally looked upon as the " staff of life," as it is called in the Scriptures 5 but while its real goodness, its convenient form, and USES TO WHICH [Chap. many other circumstances, make it, in most cases, the most valuable, perhaps, of all the articles of human food; yet it is not always such ; and, as to health, if the fermentation of bread be unskilfully managed, bread is some- times far from being a wholesome sort of food. As to quantity of nutriment, cakes or puddings, and particularly porridge or mush, are fully equal to bread, weight for weight of flour. It takes, I think, but about three iiounds and a half of corn-flour to make porridge for ten persons ; now , these three pounds and a half would make about /b2