%\\t J. $L %m plnrarg ^oxil} fllarolma ^tate doilege C55 ■m^ous ife^S ' Date Due moul KjbMffit v)jui»55Y nCT I I 1567 IS77 < fiPT * £ UL 198? Jv-i" ■ ■ 1 CHOKLTOJSPS GRAPE GROWERS' GUIDE. A HAND-BOOK OF THE CULTIVATION OF THE EXOTIC GRAPE. BY WILLIAM CHORLTON. NEW EDITION. WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE LATER EXOTIC GRAPES, AND A SELECT LIST OF THE NATIVE VARIETIES. By Dr. GEORGE THURBER. ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 1902 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by the O. JUDD CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY REMARK8. PAGI Hardiness of natives and exotics . • 11 Effects of mildew and excessive changes . • 11 Cost of houses ...... 1? Skill easily acquired • • • . . 12 Botanists' distinctions . . • • • 13 Circumstances favorable to development • . . 14 Evils of dogma and prejudice . . • 15 Acclimatizing ..... 16 Gratification and advantage of the Grapery . • 16 CHAPTER II. HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. Double pitch, curve, and straight line • . 18 Single pitch ...... 1* Ridge and furrow ..... 18 Cold Grapery : Most suitable houses for • • . • 18 Position for double pitch • • • . 19 oii-xVI/t nitlln 19 Inclination of roof • • • . . 20 Explanation of Frontispiece • • 21 Ground Plan to Frontispiece . • • . 22 Calculations of profits .... f 24 H ouse not to be used for other purpose! . 26 Foundations, ventilators, &c • . • 27 Internal fixings, &a. . • • • . 27 Evil of cold water . ' • • • 28 Situation . . • • • . 29 Early Grapery : Suitable designs for and remarks on • • 29 Aspect •••••• . 80 IV CONTENTS. Difficulties with outside temperature . . 80 Description and plan of house . . 81 Plan of ventilator . ... 82 Advantage of inside planting . • . 88 Plan of house heated by fine • . 84 Grapery for pot culture : Plan of house for • • • • . 35 Other houses suitable • • * . . 36 Retarding House : Objects of . •••••• 86 Position and aspect . . • . . . 87 Plan of double detatched house . • , 88 Mr. Webster's method of ventilation . , 89 CHAPTER m. ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. Reasons why it is required . . . . .40 Steam not suitable, and why . Hot water the best Difference of material for pipes, Ac. Plan of boiler . Brick flues, general remarks on Drying and parching effects of flues Size and capacity of flue and furnace Polmaise heating, remarks on . Plan of flue and polmaise combined CHAPTER IV. 41 41 42 43 44 15 46 47 18 BORDERS, OR PREPARED BEDS. importance of right preparation . . 49 Bad effects of unsuitable materials • .49 Nitroarenized manure not permanent • .60 Good properties of bones and lime • 62 Evil of over-deep borders . . . . ,52 The strongest growth not the best . . 62 Advantages of well drained borders . . . ,63 How to make the borders ..... 53 Good drainage retains the moisture . .64 Advantages of making only a part at first ♦ • 65 Too much stimulating matter not good • .51 CONTENTS. Width of borders How to retain natural longevity Useless expenditure 66 57 68 CHAPTER V. PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT THE FIRST FBAB. Choosing of vines for planting .... When to plant ...••• How to plant • . • . • Careful watering required • • Planting vines previously started into growth • • Management through the summer • • • Attention to the roots • • • Necessity of a warm temperature • • • Attention to the tops . . . • Increase of air as ripening progresses . • • How to prune, &c. • • • • • Wash to kill insects . • . • Covering for winter • . . • • Top-dressing of compost . . . • CHAPTER VL MANAGEMENT FOB THE SECOND YEAR, AND PERMANENT TREATMENT FOR THE COLD GRAPERY. Retarding of the buds How to manage the advancing growth Reducing of bunches Regulation of temperature • • Fertilizing the flowers . . Application of water after blossoming Further reduction of fruit Thinning out the superfluous berries . Inside watering through the summer Outside watering through the summer Application of liquid manure A drier atmosphere and more air required House to be closed on frosty nights Fall management . • Weight of fruit to be allowed 69 69 60 61 61 62 62 63 64 64 64 65 65 66 • • . 6? • • . 67 , . . 68 • • 68 . 69 . • . 69 • • . 70 • • 71 • . 72 . . . 72 . . 73 later in the season 73 . . 74 . • . 74 , , • 76 n CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIT THE EAKLT GRAPERY, OB FORCING HOUSE Practical skill required, and remarks • • Yearly ft rcing not injurious . . • Covering for outside borders • • • Injury from the roots being in a cold bed • • Time to prune, and commencing to force • Evils of cold drafts of air .... General treatment .... Watering outside borders, and free ventilation • Second early crop .... Journal of temperature and remarks . . CHAPTER VIII. POT CULTUEJB Advantages, care required, &c. . . • Comparative difference in crop . . . How to economise space . • • . Suitable vines, compost, and potting • • General treatment . • • . • Management for second fruiting . . . Application of liquid manure . . PAGB 77 79 80 80 83 84 85 86 , 87 88 91 92 93 93 95 96 97 CHAPTER IX. RETARDING HOU8! Objects of the Retarding House General remarks, and treatment Caution required in pruning . How long in the year grapes may be had 98 98 101 102 CHAPTER X. LIST OF VARIETIES. Remarks on the confusion of kinds • Exotics, descriptive list Cold Grapery, the best kinds for • • Forcing House . . . Retarding House • • • 104 105 112 112 111 CONTENTS. vi* PAG1 Pot culture • • 113 Remarks on Muscats • • . 114 Native Grapes, varieties of • • * lift CHAPTER XI. PRUNING AND TRAINING. General remarks . . • • • • . 116 Double spur method • • 117 Single close spur method • • • • . 119 Long rod *' • • • 120 Renewal •' . • • • . 121 Extension " . • • • 122 To produce temporary full crop • • • • . 124 Longevity of the grape vine . • • • 125 Weight of fruit that a vine will produce • • 125 Advantages of extension • • • 126 Summer pruning . • • • 126 Evils of shortening in too close • • • 128 Curtailing the plant's energy shortens life . 129 CHAPTER XII. PROPAGATION AND THE RAISING OF NEW KINDS. Propagation by eyes . . • • 131 . . 132 • • • 133 layers • • . 134 • • • 134 grafting . • • . 135 inarching • • • 137 seed • • i • . 138 The raising of new kinds 138 Improvement that may be made . • • . 139 National profits . • • • • 140 Hybridizing, or cross-breeding • • 141 CHAPTEB XIU DISEA8BI. tfildew: Different kinds, and first indication • Oidium, its appearance • • .149 143 Till CONTENTS. Time of appearance •••••. 144 Sulphur a remedy • • • • . 145 Botrytit described • , • • • 145 Hew fungoids vegetate • • • • • 146 Kinds not injurious *••*.. 148 Shrivel and shank : General remarks . • . • • . 148 Various causes — how produced .... 149 How to prevent . » • • 15C Dry rot in the roots : Indications ... • • 151 Other kinds of rot, and how to prevent . • • 151 Rot in the fruit : '•'he cause, and how to remedy • • 153 fpot: The probable cause • • . 154 Remarks on watering overhead . • • 154 CHAPTER XTV*. INSECTS AND HOW TO DESTROY THEM* fiemarks and different kinds . . . 156 Red spider, scaly and mealy bugs .... 157 Green and black fly, thrips, fretters, rose bug . 158 Beetles, moths ...... 159 CHAPTER XV. THE VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE, General remarks ..... 161 Bad effects of damp air and undrained land . .162 Carbonate of lime, its good effects .... 163 CLoice of situation . . • • . 164 Preparing the land •••••• 165 Action of cold air . • . . • 166 Formation of terraces . • • • .167 CHAPTER XVI. Supplementary List of Exotic and of Native Varieties ,. 205 M. PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. When it was proposed to issue a new and enlarged edition of the present volume, the author was requested to make such changes and additions as his later experience had shown to be necessary. In due time he reported that he had gone all over the work, and having compared its teachings with his daily practice, he could see nothing which he wished to alter. He suggested that the work might be made more valuable by adding descriptions of the better varieties of the exotic grapes introduced since the former edition. In view of the above, we are warranted in presenting the work as embodying the former teachings confirmed by the later experience of one who may be regarded as a veteran in grape culture. The suggested list of the newer exotic grapes has been added, and will be found at the end of the volume. When this work was first published, grape culture in the open air was almost unknown. A few attempts at plant- ing vineyards with exotic varieties had resulted disas- trously, and the cultivation of native varieties was, in the Nothern States at least, confined to city yards and sheltered localities. As sufficient directions for out-door culture are given, it is thought that a select list of the leading hardy varieties will add to the value of the work ; and it is given at the end of the volume. n c. a* ofr** PREFACE. Owing to the favorable reception of my monograptt. the Cold Grapery, by those who are interested in grape culture, and the commendations of intelligent practical cultivators of this luscious fruit, I have determined to comply with the request of friends, by giving a more comprehensive edition, with the hope that my humble efforts may be of service to the public. What is recorded is simply an explanation of my own experience and observation, and an expression of my deliberately formed opinions. The method here given has been successful hitherto, and is founded upon the practice of the last quarter century. I have endeavored, as much as possible, to give a common-sense view of the whole routine, to embody every idea required in each department, and labored to make the detail concise, yet plain. Such as it is, I submit it to a discerning and intelligent public, and shall be amply repaid for my trouble, if it shall hereafter be the means of extending a true know ledge, of the subject on which it treats. William Chorlton #** Brighton, Stolen IsUmd. (rf) CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. We find, from history, that the grape-vine has been one of the most esteemed and essential fruits from the most remote periods of antiquity. Its cultivation has followed the migrations of civilized man into all climes suitable to its prosperity, and, since the erection of glass houses has been understood, has become adopted into many countries where it otherwise could not succeed. In the United States, the different varieties of the native, Vitis Labrusca, as Isabella, &c, and those of the native Vitis vulpina, as Scuppernong, &c, with ordinary treat- ment, flourish, and ripen their fruit in the open air ; while those of the exotic, Vitis vinifera, as Ohasselas, Ham- burgh, &c, have, excepting in a few solitary instances, proved a complete failure, from their tendency to become mildewed. In most parts of the Union, there is sufficient light and heat to bring the different varieties of the latter species to maturity, and they are hardy enough to resist the cold, but unfortunately, when the disease (allow the expression) attacks them, the free action of growth is checked, the energy is impaired, and instead of well- hardened wood, there is nothing but an unripened, sappy substance, to withstand the severe winters. The fruit also is rendered worthless from the same cause; and although many attempts have been tried, with the most sanguine expectations, they have been as often abandoned. This evil is the result of the growth of fungoid veget*- CH) 12 THE GRAPE. tion, the development of which is accelerated by the ex cessive changes from dry to moist, from heat to cold, and vici versa. Fortunately, the erection of glass houses is now so well understood, and material is so cheap, that we have a ready antidote; for, by planting inside these structures, we are enabled to equalize the temperature and overcome the difficulty. There is also the advantage, if we take the whole range of the subject, of being able to cut ripe grapes nearly the whole year round ; and even as a general crop in the cold grapery, with a proper selection of sorts, a sup- ply may be obtained from the middle of July, or the be- ginning of August (according to locality), on to near the end of December. Generally it has been thought that the cultivation of this desirable fruit was prohibited to all but the most wealthy, on account of expense, and peculiarly myste- terious skill. As to the first difficulty, good and suitable houses can be erected, when heating apparatus is not attached, at from $8 to $14 per running foot, on the length of the house, with all conveniences included, and proper fertilizing materials are no great expense; so that this obstacle can be removed even by those of humble means. In making the above assertion as to cost, it is not presumed that the lesser amount will complete a stately building, but a snug and well adapted small house, such as many would like, can be finished for that amount ; and the greater sum will furnish a profit to the builder, on a structure sufficiently elegant and commodious to gratify the most wealthy or fastidious. With regard to the skill, if the directions hereafter laid down (with a little observation added) be acted upon, a sufficiency of prac- tical knowledge will soon be acquired; for these direc- tions are the result of the author's experience, and are only what have been and are still being actually INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 13 accomplished by good grape-growers. Many have been prevented from commencing by seeing the many fail- ures that have occurred, the small number of successful cases, and the hitherto almost general " say," that it is absolutely necessary in all cases to have fire heat. But we are dawning upon a new era in these respects, and the alacrity and determined enthusiasm with which many have now come into, and others who are beginning to enter the field, will go far towards dispelling these fears, and will eventually drive out prejudice. No fruit-bearing plant will give greater satisfaction than the grape-vine, and nothing horticultural will continue to prosper without it. All that is wanted are a few right ideas, and the writer has done his best to discharge his duty, feeling convinced that ere long the grape-house will be considered as neces- sary an adjunct to an estate, however small, as at present is a peach-orchard. Botanists disagree with respect to the classifying of the genus vitis, some making the species very numerous, and others only dividing it into well-marked specialities, thereby simplifying and rendering the differences more distinct. There are some men so fond of dividing and subdividing nature's distinctions according to their own fickle whims and fancies, that, were we always to follow them, it would take a lifetime to begin to understand their abstract con- nections; and as these individuals have in many cases become authors, and consequently are referred to as au- thority, there is some apology for the novice wandering in the maze of misunderstanding which they have to some extent established. Such men ought to take a course of practical lessons in hybridization, and see the results, be fore publishing their manuscripts, when they would dis cover that many of their so-called species are no more distinct than some of the varieties which may be artifi ? 14 THE GRAPE. cially produced. However, tins lias little to do with us in the present subject, further than the understanding of the difference between our natives and the exotics, and here it would appear that the constitutional properties alone are sufficient to make a true natural division ; for, unless we are greatly mistaken, there has not been one variety of foreign origin, or yet a seedling, direct from the same source, which can be truly verified as withstanding the changes of our climate, with the same pertinacity as the natives. The exotic grape-vine is a native of, and flourishes the best in warm, even, and comparatively dry climates; its organization is such as to require a long, steady, and warm season to perfect its growth. Under favorable circum- stances, it pushes forth a vigorous development, and ab- sorbs a large quantity of nutriment from the soil, if encour- aged to the full extent of its powers. The broad and ample foliage perspires and respires very freely. Hence it follows, that the atmosphere in which it is growing should be most particularly adapted to the various stages of growth. Practical experience shows this to be deci- dedly the case ; for, when not attended to, the most inju- rious consequences follow. Heat is the cause by which the sap is set in motion in the spring, and when it is once excited, the action is grad- ually increased along with the rising temperature, until eventually the whole energies of the plant are brought into active play. Light and moisture, combined with heat, are essential to its welfare; they encourage this action, and enable the plant to develop and mature its growth to its fullest capacity. This being the case, it is easy to see that in so vigorous a grower ad the grape-vine a great amount of these three elements is required. This I would most particularly impress upon all grape-growera INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. It Heat, light, and moisture are the main requisites; jet these elements are generally too sparingly administered, although the grape-vine requiies them all in abundance while growing freely. It would be well if all cultivators were to study more closely the laws by which the vegetable world is gov* erned ; were it so there would be fewer failures. We are attached too much to set notions, and follow the blind practice of prejudice oftener than we ought ; and if we add to this the great number of pretenders who swarm over the country, there is no occasion to wonder at the many failures. Let it not be thought that I wish to de- preciate the character of the skilful horticulturist, for we have many men who are an honor to the calling, — well qualified to give advice, and under whose care the grape vine is as well managed as in any part of Europe; but while wishing to do all in our power to uphold the pro- fession, we should raise our voice against those egotistical empirics who often deceive the unwary, waste the pro- perty of those who employ them, and bring ruin to many a horticultural establishment. In no department is this more often seen than in the grapery, where the weak growth, the ill-fed papery leaves, and spare fruit tell a woful tale of mismanagement. Yet no fruit-bearing plant, yields more readily to the wishes of the cultivator, or will bear more illtreatment than the grape, and if o'her fruits had to be managed as artificially as this requires to be under glass, there would be in them more failures, than it is subject to under inexperienced hands. Although there is much skill required in the cultivation , laiion is obtained by slides in the front wood work, imme- diately beneath the wall plate, and by sashes 2 feet six in- ches long and the same width, fitted by hinges at the ridge pole, these are lifted by a three-eights iron rod, having a hook at the upper end which is slipped through a hole in a small plate affixed to the middle of the lower end of each sash; the rod is steadied by being passed through two apertures at the end of a shaft three inches long that is welded, each into a small plate, and this Bcrewed to the back side of the house; one about nine feet, and the other five feet from the ground. In the front of the lower hole is a screw worm, and a thumb screw to fit, which on being turned either way liberates or fastens the bar, and the sash is kept firm at any desired height. Fig. 6, shows the sash open This simple contrivance, f*>stp very little, is ofi -ctivo, has the advantage of novel HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 3b getting out of repair, and is as permanent as the house it- self. It will be understood that this style of "building glasg houses, is simply a frame work covered with glass, with- out any double sash, and consequently there is no use for aiy additional portion of the rafter above the sash bars (as is the case where the sashes are made to slide), which is a decided improvement in appearance, and equally suit- able. The house is heated by one of Hitchins' of New York middle sized boilers, and there is a lineal measure of 340 feet of four inch pipe employed, giving a double row of flow and return, beside the necessary appendages. One row is fixed close along the front, and the other at ft dis- tance of seven feet nearer to the back, which leaves room for a pathway, without any dip in the pipe, and there is the additional advantage of having all the heat arising from the front, and lower part of the house, thereby se- curing as much as possible, an equal temperature over all parts. There are two rows of vines planted, one to the back wall, and the other about a foot nearer to the middle of the house than the front row of pipes, which makes a distance of eighteen inches from the extreme front ; the lower part of each of the roof vines is curved towards the bottom of the rafters, and consequently project, partly over, but are some distance above the pipes, and to prevent injury from the heat when the apparatus is at work, there is affixed behind each, a short board, about ten inches wide, which protects the stem most effectually. The ob- ject of this arrangement was to insure warmth in front, and more particulary the lower part, and at the same time with the vines planted inside. It is a plan which we have not seen elsewhere adopted, and was conceived from a know- ledge of its being somewhat in accordance with natural re- quirements; so far it has fulfilled all that was predicted, and wha*. answers in our own practice, may be justifiably 2* 84 THE GRAPE recorded, eren though it should conflict with the notions of others. As to planting an exotic grape vine outside of the house, so long as the roots have free egress, or expos- ing the stem to the vicissitudes of climate, such as we have in this country ; we never yet saw the argumeut tften though it has been attempted, and as often eloquent ly advocated, that could bring conviction, as to its being philosophical, or reasonable. In nature, we find the heat greatest near the ground, from the fact of the atmosphere being compressed, and the reflection, which take places by the sun's rays striking the surface ; and although we know that the stems of some plants are injured by his direct ac- tion upon them in hot weather, they are seldom affected by the same temperature if kept in the shade. This is the only explanation that will allow any amount of advocacy in the present instance, and it stands to reason that it » erves little purpose. Pig. 7. Pigs. 7 and 8 will explain how a suitable structure may I * adapted by a brick flue and furnace, with a shed at^ tiched. and it is preferable that it should extend the vhole length on account of the shelter. As the flue will occupy more room than hot watei pipes, it is advisable te HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 86 plant the Tines close to the inside front; and in making calculations, the entrance to the house should be elevated "o that the pathway may pass over the top of the flue Fig. 8. without which it will always be troublesome when walk- ing through the house. This only requires a little inge- nuity in each individual case, according as the details of arrangement may suit the particular circumstance. Grapery for Pot Culture.— If a house were to be erected purposely for pot-culture, the most suitable and economical would be as shown in fig. 9; the inside floor- Wig. 9. Ing s-ank a foot being below the ground level, and the under base well drained abound the outside founda- tion, to prevent cold moisture from penetrating laterally, 30 THE GRAPE. and if the heating apparatus be fixed around th« inside, near to the walls, there will be an equal distribu tion oyer all parts. Such a house, if only ten feet wide, would accommodate three rows of vines, and leave room, for a pathway ; one row being placed near to the back with the path next, and the other two nearer the front With this arrangement, there would be no occasion to elevate the roof more than to give sufficient headway, ag the path would be directly under the ridge, — say six feet above ground, and seven feet from the inside level, by which the exposure to cold, and severe winds is consider- ably avoided, and a steady heat maintained with much saving of fuel. There may be some objection to the short back lights, which should be of glass, but as these may be readily covered by shutters at night, and in severe dull weather the evil is less than the common form of lean- to, which has to be elevated according to the width of the house, and inclination of the roof. It is only for pot cul- ture that this will become serviceable in grape growing, but for the purpose named, it is most suitable, can bo erected cheap, and is a compact and easily-managed struc ture. Where the house is already built, or it may be in convenient to adopt the above plan, on account of other- wise general arrangement, an ordinary lean-to, and more particularly the curve line will answer the purpose to almost equal advantage, and the design is only given as the best adapted, where the intention is to be as perfect as possible. The Retarding House. — As the object of the retard ing house is to have grapes beyond the time Cold Grapery, or least forwarded house will furnish them, it ought to be so situated as to assist in checking the early growth of the vines, it is also desirable that it should be capable of being rendered thoroughly dry inside, and like HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 3< wise erected on a plan, by which it may be readily and economically heated, or rather that the applied heat may not be wasted, consequently, a lean-to form offers the greatest facilities as regards the latter, and a west front the former requirement. There are several reasons why this position is preferable. The coldest winds, more particularly in the early part of the season, being from the west, and north-west, there is a better chance of keeping back vege- tation in the spring, and of preventing the invigorating power of the sun at that time, thereby helping the vines to rest for a time, and retarding the buds. It is also ad- visable on account of the young and sappy growth being liable to mildew during the damp and close weather of July and August, at which times this pest is more than usually prolific, and generally when the wind is south, or south-east ; so that if the house be turned, as it were, away from these points, the influence is somewhat des- troyed. It may be thought, from these considerations, that north-west would be better still, — so it would, but for the deficiency of sun light that in such case would be the result, for under any and all circumstances, the grape- vine delights in a free exposure to the action of powerful light, and without a due proportion, the after growth will not become sufficiently concentrated to store up the re quired elaborate juices, or produce healthy and active roots Improvement, and greater perfection in all buildings is now advancing with rapid strides, and these lean-fa glass houses are beginning to be looked upon as obsolete, and whenever, or wherever such shed-looking structures with bare back-walls can be, they ought to be avoided Under some circumstances they are better adapted to the situation of the garden, but it is only where they compose a boundary line of a parallelogram, and when the back part is not seen ; in such positions they are admissible 38 THE GRAPE. and, also, where strong heat has to he kept up all the winter, hut there are many instances where such might be avoided in outside appearance, and yet the inside re- main the same in character, and so with the retarding house. Any person who wishes to erect a house for this pur pose, is sure to have one or more graperies, and most likely one for the general summer crop, which is only partially forwarded; in which case, a double span, with the ends north and south, and divided longitudinally through the centre, would answer both purposes; the west side being used for the late, and the east for the Pig. 10. earlier crop. We do not advise the east front as the best in a general way, but when it gives the advantages here mentioned, there is no reason why it may not be adopted, and we speak from experience in saying that good grapes may be grown as a second early, or general crop, with an eastern slope of the roof. The annexed end section, fig. 10 will explain better than words, how such double detached HOUSE? AND CONVENIENCES. 39 houses may be constructed, so as not to show even the convenience for the heating apparatus, further than a door to shut down over the under-ground vault, and even this, if thought objectionable, may be made to form a part of one of the pathways inside. The example given is an arrangement of, and now under the charge of, the writer and answers admirably. Hot water is here used for heat ing, but the same is equally applicable to the furnace and common flue, with the difference of placing the chimney at the opposite end. Since the above was written we have been apprized of a method of ventilating double pitch curvilinear houses, which has been invented by Mr. William Webster of Rochester, and for which he is about taking out a patent. His plan consists in having a movable chamber along the whole length upper part of the house, and which he can lift or lower at pleasure. If the machinery can be made to work well and kept in permanent order, he has con- ferred a great benefit upon the public, and deserves the thanks and support which all such useful improvemonti aught to receive. CHAPTER III. ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. In the first stages of civilization, man was contented to eat the fruits of the earth as nature produced them in each division of climate, or separate locality, but as luxury crept in, he began to wish for those of more favored climes than the one in which he, in many cases, happened to be placed. His earlier peregrinations into more southern countries enabled him to see the splendor of tropical flowers, and taste the luscious fruits which there abound, and to enable him to enjoy these desirable additions at his own home, it became necessary to imitate as near as could be done, the climate from whence they came ; and here is the first inducement to use artificial heat, which though of imperfect character so far, to a certain extent, answered the purpose. This partial success set ingenuity to work, houses constructed partly of glass were erected, and so the thing has progressed from the half-glass, half- slate building, with clumsy stone or brick flue, to the Crystal Palace, and the elegantly modelled and scientific hot-water apparatus, until, even in most inhospitable regions, the fruits and flowers of the torrid zone are pro duced in equal, and sometimes superior quality, to that which is found in the places to which they are indigenous ; besides which, skill has so far triumphed, that by a judi- cious application, or withholding of the artificial caloric, a succession of crops may be had to suit the desires of th* meat fastidious mind. (40) ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. 41 To say the best we can of artificial heat, it is only a necessary evil, but as we cannot do without using it, we ought to put in practice the best and most economical method that is at present known. The only advantages arising from this necessity, is the raising of the tempera- ture of, or drying the atmosphere in any given house under care, so as to suit the particular purpose intended, and so far, by adopting the latest improvements and fore- casting as to what is required, we can work along with comparative surety. There is no use of entering into a theoretical disquisition of the relative properties of caloric, nor of showing up the science of chemistry in combustion. our object is to find out how we can at the least expense, and with the more certainty, apply this subtle principle. Suffice it then to say that there are about four ways in which we can adapt it to our use, viz. : by steam, hot water, brick flue, and what may be considered a modification of the latter, the technical term Polmaise Steam is of no practical use, ^unless where a large ex- tent of houses, all in the immediate vicinity are to be heated, neither can it be used with any certainty, unless the water is kept up to the point when the steam is given off in great quantity, so as to force it through the pipes, and the heat along with it; besides there is the great dis- advantage of a want of bulk of heated substance, which is sufficient reason why this mode should not be adopted, for on the fire going down, the house immediately becomes cold, and consequently without the most careful attention, there is danger at almost any moment in severe weather, 3f injury to, or the loss of a crop. Hot Water has of late years become, and most deser vedly so, the popular favorite for warming plant and fruit houses. This method possesses the advantage of raising the temperature without parching the air, or giving out 42 THE GRAPE. any noxious gases, and if constructed on the best plan, may be placed on the credit side c f expenses, there is also a steady heat in the working, and a sufficiency of bulk in the quantity of water, which, when once put in motion, continues to flow with increased or lessened velocity, ac- cording as the fire is kept up, and for some time e\ en after no further heat arises from the furnace. There have been different methods adopted, as reservoirs for circula- ting hot water, such as lining the inside of brick flues with cement ; tanks of wood j tin or sheet iron troughs, with the tops left loose, to be covered or not, as circumstances may dictate ; circular copper, tin, zinc, and cast iron pipes. The cemented flue is objectionable, as the material is so non-conducting, that there is great loss, and the cement is also liable to crack, which causes leakage. The open tank, and trough is well enough for a propagating house, which is generally small, and kept very damp, but is not suitable for a grapery, in which is required, a moist or dry atmosphere, according to the different stages of growth ; this plan also occupies much space, and looks un- sightly. Tin pipes are not advisable from their tendency to corrode, and unendurable qualities. Zinc softens when hot, and is next to useless, copper if made strong enough to resist hard knocks, and be really serviceable is very expensive, so we are driven to the last substitute, cast iron, which answers every purpose, is lasting, erected comparatively cheap, strong, and the different lengths are readily cemented, the joints becoming as firm and tight as any other part. The construction of boilers for this pur pose is also various, and there is a great difference in the consumption of fuel, according with the ratio of heat dis- tributed to the water. In the most primitive boilers, the fire only played on the under surface, and the consequence was, a great waste of heat, unless the residue was con- ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. 43 veyed around the house in a flue, which almost nullified the improved principle; but of late years a great im- provement has been accomplised, so much so as to make it almost perfect. Several ingenious mechanics have given their attention to the subject of heating graperies and other glass struc- tures by means of hot water, and the result is a number of boilers remarkably efficient in use and economical of fuel. These are complete in themselves, requiring no brick setting or other mason work, but may be brought *'ig. 12. in and set up with scarcely more trouble than an ordi- nary stove. The ash-pit is formed by the base upon which the boiler stands. In the different styles of heaters much ingenuity is shown in presenting the greatest amount of surface to the action of the fire and m securing the rapid circulation of the water. The engravings 11 and 12 show one of these heaters, giving a view of the exterior and of a section. The boiler in this is double, the water being contained between the outside and an interior casing; there are, as will be seen in the section, internal connections also containing a portion of the water, thus presenting a vast extent of heating surface. 44 THE GRAPE. Boilers are made of several sizes, from those capable of heating a large grapery, down to those suited for small green-houses and plant-cabin ets. Brick Flues. — Heating by brick flues is often practised and if they be constructed on the best method, with good workmanship, they answer very well ; the expense on first erection is less it is true, but they often want repair, besides which they are unsightly and cumbersome, and as a general thing, will consume more fuel than a hot-water boiler on the above plan. If the situation, or circum- stances, make it more convenient to burn wood instead of coal or coke, then the flue is to be preferred; in such case the furnace should be large, and the draft be under the control of the operator, by having a door in front of the ash-pit, and a damper in the chimney, which, when closed, more or less, as may be wished, will keep the fire steady. There are some cultivators who still cling to the flue for grape-growing, on account of the drying effects of the heat evolved, which, as they assert, is of some importance in damp weather, when the grapes are coloring, or ripe, and that at other times they can use evaporating pans. True, it is dry enough, even to parching; and were this the only time when it would be required, the flue would answer the best purpose. But this point is a matter of very little consideration, as the same can be secured by pipes heated with hot water. Nothing can be more erroneous than to suppose that heat given out on the latter principle con- tains moisture ; were it so, the water would waste consid- erably through the pores of the metal, which is not the case, for all or nearly the whole of the evaporation which takes place is at the filling up tank, and if this be kept covered, the working of a night will not lessen the water more than a few pints. Heat, from whatever sources ob- tained, will absorb moisture, and as glass houses are not ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS 45 hermetically sealed glass bottles, the generated heat is constantly passing off through the crevices, more particu- larly those in the upper part of the roof, and the moisture along with it, The main difference, then, between the two is, that one only raises the temperature, while the other d\>es the same ; and, in addition, imparts a certain amount, of sulphuretted hydrogen and other injurious gases that escape through the joints and the bricks, in quantity according to the good or bad workmanship, or the porosity of the material. " Smoke has thin shoulders," is an old adage among gardeners, and we often find it verified in the use of flues. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, good grapes may be forced by flue heat, and in some cases this is the only means at command; when so, it is advisa- ble to make the best arrangement we can. If a steady and continuous heat be required, there ought to be enough room in the furnace to hold a large bulk of fuel, and if it is situated somewhat below the level of the flue, the heat will flow more evenly, and disseminate itself more equally, as it travels along with the draft, by which a greater por- tion will be absorbed by the bricks, and given off into the house. A small furnace, with a quick draft, is never eco- nomical, as a considerable portion of heat passes off by the chimney and is lost. A narrow and small flue is also ob- jectionable, as the heat acts directly upon the mason-work, and the bricks become so hot as to abstract the oxyf .*» of the air, rendering it so devoid of moisture as riot to be fit for the leaves to respire in. To a certain extent, this evil may be counteracted, by keeping shallow vessels filled with water upon the flue, and damping the floor of the house ; but most of the moisture produced in this way is in a vaporous state, and not in the exact solution required by the absorbing stomata of plants. The analogy be 46 THE GRAPE. tween plants aj»d animals is in this respect the same, and every body wb > is possessed of ordinary observation must be able to discern how different is the air that is raised in temperature by a red-hot stove, even though a vessel of water be kep«: upon it, to what it is when raised to the same tempejature by the sun's power. We also know, that if we w«re able to control other circumstances accord- ing to our wants for the time being, success would more often attend our operations, providing we could exactly imitate the warmth of nature. If this be true, it must then be certainly to our own interest to approach as near as we can to this desideratum. To come to our point, a capacious flue gives a greater surface exposed to the ao t ; on of the he?t, without becoming hot enough to bring about so much chemical action as to burn the air inside of the house, while a small one is sure to do so, at any rate, in that part next to the furnace. To be effectual in this respect, a flue ought not to be less thai eighteen inches high, by twelve inch°.s wide in the clear ; and if raised up by placing supports lnderneath at intervals on the length, with fire-proof tiles to form the bottom, so much the better, as it then is free to give out the hea f . on all sides. The furnace 'Jught to be not ^esv than eighteen inches wida, and equal height, independert of the arch above, and two feet long. A furnace of these dimensions is qualified to work a house of forty to fifty feet long, by twelve or fourteen feet wide, the flue being conducted along the front and two ends. Double the length will reed two fires, and so on in proportion. When two furnaces are required, there may he one piaced at each end of the house, and conveyed to the same chimney, midway in the back wail, so as to unite into one outlet; but in such case there ou^ht to be an •cute lex el upwards at the place of union, cr the twe ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. 47 opposite currents are subject to check the even flow of the smoke, and drive it back. The Polmaise method of heating is a plan that origin- ated with a Mr. Murray, of Polmaise, in Scotland, and, like many other ingenious contrivances, was the result of pecu liar necessity. At the time of its introduction, it caused a great furor amongst the seekers after novelties, and like the fugacious follies of such persons, it soon fell into dis- repute with all, excepting those who were determined not to acknowledge their error. To say the best we can in its favor, it is only a modified flue. The principle, if so it may be called, consists in having a hot air chamber over and outside the furnace, and conducting the heat therein generated through one or more apertures into the house at one end, and at the other having a hole level with the floor, which forms the top of a drain that is conducted along under ground to the furnace, and which supplies the fire with fresh air to support combustion. By these means the heat from the chamber is drawn through the house, and a partial current produced, and from this it was at first predicted that a great benefit would arise, on account of the near imitation to nature's invigorating breezes. If glass was not a rapid conductor of heat, this plausible theory might have been a practical good ; but as it is, and as heat will ascend, in opposi- tion to such a weak power to repress it, a great portion flows along at the top and back part of the house, leav. Fig. 13. iS THE GRAPE. Fig. 14 mg the lower part, or front, cold ; which, if there be a dif- ference, ought to be the warmest. The only way in which this plan can be tolerated, or be of advantage, is, to combine the cham ber and flue, and make use of both This is economizing, as the whole of the heat which radiates from both sources is made available. Figs. 13 and 14 show a longitudinal and transverse cross section of both com- bined. In concluding, we may say, that after many years' practice with most kinds of heating apparatus for hot-houses, we are thor oughly convinced that none is 60 efficient or economical as hot water. CHAPTER IV. BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. The formation cf beds, or more technically borders, in which to grow the grape vine is of great importance, per- haps more so than any other portion of the whole routine of culture, for without a proper matrix in which the root* may luxuriate, it is impossible to succeed. The more important any branch of horticulture is, often the greater the number of opinions respecting it. This is strictly true, in the present instance. Some have advo- cated the admixture of great quantities of raw animal car- casses, in such quantities, and large masses, that one would think, if their reasoning were true, that a recently filled cholera burial-ground, would be the best place on which to erect a grapery, or plant a vineyard. Others again have recommended large doses of blood, and the stink- ing offal of slaughter-houses, in so fresh a state that the very idea is enough to nauseate the strongest stomach, and forbid the cultivation of this luscious fruit. Fortu- nately these materials are not required, although when thoroughly decomposed and well mixed with maiden earth, there is no objection to the using of a portion incorporated through the mass. It often happens when thus applied, that a very vigorous growth is produced for a time, bul sufficient strength can be had without these stinking nui- sances. If used at all, it should be in the form of top- dressings in after years, and forked in, by which the fer- tility will be assisted, without making the whole bed into 3 (40) 50 THE GRAPE. an unctuous paste, more fit to puddle a duct pond with, than for the tender and fleshy roots of the grape vine to luxuriate in. If proof of this were wanted, there are plenty of examples if they were to be examined, where the roots that have come into contact with these masses of soap-like substances, before they were thoroughly de- composed, have been found quite rotten, and if the vines have continued to do well, it is not from the nutriment derived from them, but from their ready adaptability to form fresh spongeoles from the back roots, which may have travelled in other directions, and with good treat- ment added. The advocates of this putrid animal matter, contend for the greater invigorating powers and more lasting proper ties, than is to be found in barnyard manure, or decayed vegetable substances. To the first we will agree, pro- viding the stimulating portions be administered in a proper manner, and here ends this part of the difference ; but how it is to be more lasting, is another part of the subject. It is a well-known fact, that highly nitrogenized manures, during decomposition, give off vei v freely the volatile ammonia con- tained in them, and as this is a great stimulant to vegeta- tion during active development, it is easily seen how such wonderful effect is produced ; as this exciting principle, from its evanescent properties, porcolates into every aper- ture in its escape, and no doubt a portion is taken up in a gaseous state by the young and readily absorbing spon- geoles. But does it follow, that this is any proof of pei* nanent action. Judging from the premises it would appear the very reverse, and the frequent use of other manures of a similar character — guano, for instance — have clearly demonstrated, that oft-repeated applications with occa- sional additions of carbonaceous organic bulk, and other inorganic assistance, have to be applied to maintain fer BORDERS OR PRErARED BEDS. 51 tility, where the same spot is constantly cropped. In the present subject we are precisely in this position, and there ought to be great regard for the future constitutional power, if a healthy after-life be cared for, which is not to be acquired by the excessive quantity of these helps that only act upon the vegetable, in the same manner as do alcoholic drinks upon the human system. All our best physicians acknowledge the good effects of stimu- lants in particular kinds of disease, when administered with skill, and everybody knows how soon the strongest constitution is broken down by the great quantities that too many indulge in. So it is with the grape vine ; we all commence with endeavoring to gain strong, and more than natural growth, but there certainly is no reason why we should keep our plants in a continual state of intoxica tion, from the moment of their first awaking in the spring, till they finally rest on the approach of winter, and still leaving the same baneful influence, to diffuse itself over the whole outer surface of the roots (which are equivalent to the mouths of animals), until the next season's warmth again arouses their action. We would not by any means have it understood, that we are opposed to the judicious use of ammonia, or any of the other compounds that are to be found in more abundance in the animal, than in the vegetable body ; but do protest against the inordinate mixture of such, often to the exclusion of other, and more necessary bases, and which leaves the plant after a few years of undue excitement, a prey to disease and prema tu re decay. If success has seemed to attend the progres in some instances, the failures have been much greater and unprejudiced experience shows, that more injury than benefit has arisen from the admixture of animal matter, even in small quantities, and in anything like a fresh state. These remarks are only intended to apply to the flethj 52 THE GRAPE. and quickly putrefying portions of the animal body, with out any reference to the bones. Here we will subscribe to the recommendation, because it is consistent with na- ture, and furnishes along with other useful properties, the often most wanting requirement, lime; in this all grape growers are agreed, and the invariable prosperity of our pet, in places where limestone abounds among the soil, produces the most conclusive evidence. There is little doubt but the want of this substance is the reason why some of our vignerons have occasion to complain of rot and want of success in various ways ; and here we may ask, whoever saw a grape vine that did not do well, and produce fruit of good quality, providing the climate was suitable, and the roots could creep along under the soil, and lie upon the surface or in the fissures of a limestone rock. There are other persons who make the beds from three to four feet deep of suitable materials, but use such quan- tities of the richer quality, with insufficient drainage, that the whole bulk, after a time, becomes sodden, and imper- vious to either sun or air, iu which no root can exist, much less extend itself. These are some of the many causes why our graperies so soon become weak and unproduc- tive; yet the natural constitutional powers of the grape vine are very strong, and of great longevity ; it is a gross feeder and can absorb a large amount of food, but when thus maltreated, although it may bear such usage for a time with much pertinacity, it will in the long run (l'ke an overgorged glutton) become deranged, its physical func lions will be weakened, and it either dies of plethora, 01 wears on an exhausted existence, producing little or noth- ing but watery leaves, and weakly branches. If such very strong growth were really requisite to pro- duce the finest bunches, or berries, and could be obtained BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 53 by these means, there would be some excuse for thus abusing nature ; but such is not the fact, for tbe most superior and best flavored fruit, is had from solid, well lipened, and vigorous, but not over-fed wood. When the bearing shoots are unduly strong, there are frequently two or more developed from a bud, while with moderate growth only one is formed, and as each of these buds having received its share of nutriment, wherewith to start future development, thus takes from the others a portion, the consequence must be (as only one can remain) a weaker action at first, and correspondingly less power afterwards, than would be the case if there was only one centr6. The bunches emenating from such a bud, will also contain generally a greater number of florets, and shoulders, equal to the concentrated accumulation in the embryo shoot ; for it is formed previous to bursting, and before the leaf of the previous season falls, in the axil of which it is fixed In all cases of permanent success, the grape vine luxu riates upon a naturally, or artificially well-drained bottom. It is best suited in warm, and comparatively dry climates, and the constitution which nature has fixed, man cannot alter. We must then adapt as near as we can, its position in cultivation to its wants, and if we produce artificially a greater than ordinary amount of growth, we ought to have a corresponding medium whereby to mature that growth. Well-drained borders is one of the means by which this can be accomplished, as the superabundant moisture is taken away, and the air and the sun's heat can more readily penetrate the soil. If the following directions are followed, there will be no reason to complain of want of success on this point. Take out to the depth of two feet, the whole of the up- per surface, then dig a trench two feet wide and one foot deep, with one or more outlet for the water to escape all 54 THE GRAPE. around the margin of the excavated space, which will form a drain, three feet deep from the top, and one foot below the lower base of the borders ; fill this trench with rough stones, or brick-bats, the rougher the better ; after- wards fill in over the whole surface, about six inches of :yster, or other marine shells if to be had readily, but if not, broken stones, or pieces of brick and lime rubbish will answer, and if a quantity of broken bones are to be got, strew them over the top of the other drainage ; cover this with turf-sods, or any rough litter, to prevent the soil from falling through and among tne drainage, and throw in the prepared compost to one toot above the top level ; this will give a depth of three feet, which will settle down about six inches, leaving the permanent depth two feet six inches, viz.: two feet below and six inches above the ground level. In some situations the original base will be a dead level, when the excavated surface ought to slope from the house towards the outside of the borders, which will cause the water to run the more readily towards the lower drains. Care should be taken in this respect, whatever the level may be, that the bottom is so arranged as to allow the water to escape freely ; the means of securing which will occur to any ordinary mind, according to the level he may have to deal with. It may be thought, that with this amount of drainage, and raised, and not over deep borders, the soil will be- come too dry throughout the summer to maintain vigorous growth, but experience testifies to the contrary, for al- though the under parts will not be over wet, the moist. ire is equally divided through the whole, and if the upper surface be mulched, examination will prove that every portion is equally damn, and the innumerable small root- lets are ramifying in every direction, each taking its BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 55 allotted portion of work, to supply the structure of the plant with wholesome food. Effectual drainage lias not antil lately received that share of attention among culti- vators generally which its benefits ought to command, and even at the present day, there is a great want of proper understanding respecting it. To a person who is contented to go along scratching over the ground, sowing seed, and leaving the rest to Nature, it is a difficult problem to solve, how the conducting away water in land that is already too dry and hard in summer can be of any ser- vice. Thanks to science and agricultural chemistry, this is now made so clear, by having been so often explained, with examples here and there as proofs, that the mystery is, how men can still remain so blind to their own interests, or entertain any prejudice against what has been so prac tically demonstrated. Although it is recommended above to make the whole of the borders at once, which is only one trouble and ex- pense, and will answer very well ; yet it is much better to prepare the drainage as advised, and make only half, viz. : that part next to the house, of properly prepared compost, filling in the other with the intended base soil a little enriched, and after the first season's growth, work up in the following fall, into the half of the unfinished portion, the same quantity of fertilizing materials as the former half was mixed with. In the spring, before grow- ing commences, this may be again forked over, which will incorporate all more evenly, and the next fall the remain- ing quarter may be done likewise. By this method the borders are kept loose for a longer time, the air is more freely admitted, and the whole is better adapted for the healthy progress of the roots, which, as they extend from year to year will penetrate more readily, and fill ever) portion. The tendency to become solid, is much reduced 66 THE GRAPE. aftei the borders "become filled with roots, as they are always more or less drawing nutriment and moisture, thereby rendering the base soil more porous, when the gases of the atmosphere, which are very beneficial, have a chance of occupying the interstices, and forming chemical combi- uations with the material ; thereby producing a continual renewal of suitable food for the support of vegetable life. We have ample proofs of the correctness of this, and where borders are constructed as above advised, there will be an admission of air, not only from the openings to the drains and from them under the whole bed, but also from above. It is not by administering such enormous doses of stimu- lating, or fertilizing material all at once, and before the roots have progressed in sufficient numbers, or distance, to appropriate it to their use, that we are to calculate upon the most permanent results, or immediate success. So long as we supply from time to time what is required, it is jough, and if we have got well drained and porous bor- ders, we can the more readily apply top-dressings and mulchings in after years, without injury, or covering •he roots too deep ; for if, in efficiently drained ground, a layer of dung be spread over the surface, it will be found fter a time, that there is little but dry chaff left, all the soluble parts having been washed by the rains down into the soil below, and the plants will have received the bene- fit of it. With regard to the width of these borders there are many opinions, and different persons have been led by the dictation of fancy into dogmatic assertion, without duly considering the requirements of nature. Now, if we take this for our guide, and, generally speaking, it is the best reasoner, we must provide a large superficial area; for the roots of the grape vine are great travellers, and will if allowed their owi. way, extend over much space, BORDERS OR rR^PARHID iJ^Db. 57 consequently free egress and plenty of room must cer- tainly be essential, where the intention is to retain unin- terrupted fertility for a long time ; beside which we ought to consider the close proximity of the vines as they are most commonly planted, and it then becomes still more evident that we ought not to be penurious in this respect. Our own recommendation is to make them ten feet wide at the commencement, add five feet more the next season, and five feet again the year following, making a total of twenty feet, which will give ample space for a long time ; but if success should attend the same stock some ten or fifteen years, and the roots at the end of that time are found so closely interwoven, as to be in want of more ex- tension, it would be advisable to add another five feet, so that in making first designs, it is well to forecast after ne- cessaries. Many will, no doubt, think that this is a waste of land that might be turned to advantage in other ways, and others may not have so much ground at command for the purpose. As to the first objection, it may be answered by the simple question of, what more paying crop can be put on the added fifteen square feet that will be required for each vine, than the increase of two or three pounds ot good exotic grapes, beside the benefit secured by retain- ing the natural longevity of the plant, where considerable capital has been invested at the outset in erecting a suita- ble house. In the latter case there is the opportunity of reducing the number of vines inside, and extending the branches of those left so as to keep the whole roof covered thereby giving more root room individually. The very common notion, that a grape vine is so often worn out deserves to be classed with the things that were, — depend upon it, if all its wants are duly supplied, and the house lubstantially erected, a grapery may be left as a legacy 3* 68 THE GRAPE. to our offspring, instead of being, as it too fre juently is, only calculated to become tlie pleasure of a few years. The most suitable materials for composing the borders are, a good friable loam (the top sod, grass included, of a pasture), with a suitable quantity of partly decomposed gtablo manure, in proportions of one-fourth of the latter to three-fourths of the former, and a good dressing of broken or ground up bones, say one bushel to every cubic yard in bulk. If the soil contains much lime in its own base, the bones may be dispensed with, but generally they are of much benefit, being a very lasting manure, giving out slowly, and when all the phosphates are exhausted they still remain as a carbonate of lime, among which the grape vine delights. When the base soil, where the house is to be erected, is of the above nature, it may be used, and the other mate- rials added on the spot, which will save expense. There is often much useless expenditure caused in this way. Never remove away the existing base unless absolutely bad, excepting with little outlay, a much better substitute can be procured ; for by good mixing of the fertilizing matter and drainage to correspond, a poor soil may in many instances be made good, and often when it is consi- dered impracticable, most likely all that is required. Im- perfect drainage is frequently the cause that prevents success, when it is attributed to an unsuitable constituent base. The grape vine is not so capricious in its food as is generally supposed, but a dry bottom it must and will have in prosper OHAPTEB V PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT TIIK FIRST YEAR. In choosing vines for planting, see that the wood is well ripened and solid, and the roots clean and healthy. One year old, propagated from the eye are best for the grapery, or from cuttings for the vineyard, but those of two years are not objectionable. The most proper time for planting is about the beginning of March, under glass. or so soon as the ground is in good working order, out of doors, when the vines have not been prematurely started into growth, as they are then just commencing to move from a long repose, and have no great time to remain in their new quarters before fresh rootlets begin to push forth. When deferred much longer, these fibres are sub ject to injury, being very brittle. If the vines have been grown in pots, which is generally the case, with the ex- otics, the soil ought to be entirely shaken from them, and the entangled roots carefully straightened out, care being used when planted, that they are spread in all directions diverging from the stem. After loosening up well, and smoothing over the surface around on the base, where it ig intended to fix them, have in readiness a quantity of the same material as the border is composed of, broken up fine and mixed with a third portion of leaf-mould, if to be had — if not, it is not of much consequence, but the young rootlets soon lay hold of it, and a good start is half the battle. Strew two inches of this compost over the but- 60 THE GRAPE. face, place the plant thus spread out upon it, and C3ve» with three inches of the same mould. It will be under- stood that this mode of procedure will elevate the crowns of the roots a. trifle above the general level, which will prove advantageous afterwards, as a top-dressing can be added without their being buried down below the surface Avoid deep planting in all cases, for it leads to cankered roots, and places them out of the reach of the warming influence of the sun, and the exhilirating action of the air, both of which are as beneficial to them as are light and heat to the leaves and branches. It is not to be expected that this particularity can be applied to the vineyard, but so far as can be done economically, the same rule holds good. Before planting, cut off the top of the plant to about six or nine inches, or down to two or three good buds. The advantage of leaving more than one being the choice it gives of retaining the most promising when started, when all the worst can be rubbed off. It is sometimes inconvenient to plant at the time above recommended from some local cause, in which case, the plants may be removed into pots, if so situated, of a larger size than those that they were previously in, put to grow in some other house, and attended to as regards heat and moisture, in the same manner as if in their final resting place ; as the young shoots progress in growth, they will require to be carefully tied to a stake fixed up right in each pot, and as the roots increase, larger sized pots will be requisite to prevent them becoming pot-bound, by which the vigor is consideraby checked. By attending to these points, they may be kept on till June or July, after which, if carefully turned out of the pots, without disturbing the roots any more than can be avoided, a good cane may be obtained the same season, though not often strong enough to bear fruit the following summer: but PLANTING ANL MANAGEMENT. 61 which, if planted in March, can generally be accomplished After planting, give a good soaking of water to settle the soil around the roots, but do not allow it to become satu- rated afterwards by too oft repeated applications, the ob- ject being to keep it moderately moist, but not sodden, a? he tender roots are soon rotted when not drawing freely If the vines have been prematurely started into growth, which is not desirable ; or it is thought fit to plant those that have been raised from the eye the same spring, the planting ought to be deferred till the middle of April, or beginning of May, even though the house may be ready in due time ; for if planted sooner, they would, under such circumstances, receive a sudden check, from their bein» removed into a much colder atmosphere than the one they had previously occupied, and which would militate vp.vy much against their future prosperity, if not be the cause of failure. We will now suppose that the house is planted and all ready for a favorable beginning. For the first two or three weeks keep all as close and cool as possible, only giving sufficient air to lower the temperature. After this time the house may be kept a little warmer, and the vines syringed overhead two or three times a-day. Do not yet apply much water to the roots, only maintaining moisture enough to keep the soil damp, without becoming soaked. as they have not yet got into brisk action, and conse- quently cannot draw much of it up. Avoid dry winds, and retain a moist atmosphere, allowing the thermometer to rise from 70° to 75° in the middle of the day. By the middle of April the buds will be mostly started, rub off all but the strongest one, and mind that it is not injured, or the top broken out. As the young growth continues to extend, the paths, and the whole interior of the house, and likewise the plants, should be damped with the syringe ot 62 THE GRAPE. hose laornhig and ending, and during dry weather in the middle of the day, avoiding the application in the brightest gun shine. Do not give any bottom air until a vigorous and strong action is obtained, and not then without great caution, for it causes cold drafts in the lower parts of the house and checks growth, rendering the vines subject to mildew. Shut up early to retain a genial warmth before sunset, and gradually increase the temperature, so that at the beginning ot May the thermometer may stand at 90° at mid-day ; in cloudy weather keep all closed and en- deavor to keep as steady a heat as possible. By the latter end of the month, the vinos ought to be growing vigor- ously : tie the canes up carefully as they progress, leaving the ties somewhat loose to give room for after swelling, and as the laterals piuh, pinch them off to one joint, re- serving one or two entire at the top at each pinching in case of accident to the leader, and likewise take clean out the lower ones, or those last left with one leaf, at each future operation. By th.s mode of proceedure they are gradually reduced, and finally taken away, without endan- gering the bursting of tie buds in the axil of the leaf- stalks, the which are wanted for the next year. The heat may now be increase 1 to 95°, still recollecting to ply the syringe freely, excepting in dull or cold nights, when water ought to be withheld, as under such circumstances it is apt to starve and check the circulation — a matter of great importance. The roots will now be extending in proportion to the expansion of head, and must have some attention; for here are the mouths, and here are also the digestive organs, and woe betide the other members of the body if they are not well supplied. Equally with the amount of healthy foliage will they draw moisture from the base in which they are located, so long as free development in PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 63 progressing aud water ought to be applied to tie soil ac- cordingly. As there may be reason in all things, so in this, and the borders ought not to be saturated by too often repeating the application, but of this there is not much danger if the under base is well drained. A ibrk- ii-g, both inside and out, over the whole surface, will now be of service, but do not injure or disturb the roots • this will loosen up and lender the bed more porous, and the small rootlets will feel their way more freely, after which a mulching of dung or short grass, four or five inches thick, will prevent evaporation, keep an equal tempera- ture and moisture in the soil, and, during hot and dry weather, will almost entirely prevent the want of that greatest of evil necessities, artificial watering, to the out- side beds. Gradually increase the heat as the vines pro- gress more rapidly- by the beginning of June it may be allowed to rise from 95° to 100° at mid-day, and if the air is kept damp, scorching from so high a temperature will be prevented, and both combined will enable the plants to develop their fullest energies. Many persons do not give heat enough; even some of our very best grape growers are sparing in this respect. We ought to consider that, as the grape vine is generally grown under glass, we place it in a position, by the sup- ply of rich food, to produce a more than natural disten- tion of cellular tissue ; the larger leaves also are capable of doing more work, in elaborating the juices drawn up from the roots, and these large leaves being filled with an un common amount of sap, require a corresponding assistance m the form of heat and light, to properly chemicalize ^excuse the expression) this extra quantity of crude fluid. Hen ce the necessity of a warmer temperature than would suffice for the same plants, if they were growing ii, the open air, and the roots in a soil only ordinarily fertile 64 THE GRAPE : When the canes have grown to the top of the roof do not stop them, but train the tops between the vines on the opposite side, if the house be a double pitch ; and if a lean to, they may be allowed to hang down by the back wall, stopping the leader when it has advanced somewhat downwards, and leave the laterals on the same length. Thus the plants will go on swelling their growth without check, and adding bulk to their structure. Towards the middle of August, the air may be allowed to become somewhat drier, and syringing overhead gradu- ally lessened, as the wood will begin to mature: the lower ventilators may also be opened on clear days — a little at first, increasing more from day to day. By the third week in September, water should be withheld altogether, and as the wood will be ripening, air ought to be freely admitted through the day, and the temperature decreased as the canes approach maturity. When the bark becomes brown and the wood solid, the house may be thrown open day and night, excepting in case of frost or heavy rain, as the object now is to let all go quietly to rest, and the leaves to fall off yellow and fully ripe, when we may rest as- sured that nature has done her work according to her own will, and we have assisted her in accordance to her own laws. So soon as the leaves are fallen, proceed to pruning If all has gone on as it ought to have done, the canes will average five-eighths to nearly one inch in diameter, ac- cording to the natural vigor of each individual variety, and a corresponding length when not stopped, of twenty -five to thirty -five feet. Cut off the strongest to about seven, and the weakest to five feet. Afterwards take out with the point of a knife each alternate bud, which will leave the remainder about fifteen to eighteen inches apart, the object of which is explained in the chapter on pruning, Commence at the PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 65 top, leave three buds, one for next year's leader, and th# two others for side spurs ; proceed downwards, leaving each alternate pair (one on each side) to the wall plate, and as beneath this, the leaves and fruit would be out of the sun's influence, and only subject to encourage mil- dew, all buds ought to be removed. The vines may now be carefully washed over with the following preparation, which will destroy the larvae or eggs of insects, if any should be existing. Whale ul soap, one-fourth pound; sulphur, four pounds; tobacco one-fourth pound ; and nux vomica, one ounce : pour over these boiling water, three gallons, and stir all up until thoroughly mixed ; as the nux vomica is a deadly poison to animals, care should be taken that it is not left care- lessly about. A soft painter's brush is the best for the purpose, and after the operation the canes may be slung loosely to the wires till the weather begins to be severe when they should have a coating of straw three or foui inches thick tied around them, and the heads brought down one over the other in a horizontal position, about two feet above the ground level, in rows along the lines of plant- ing; this will leave the lower parts of the stem nearly upright, and prevent the crown of the roots from being strained or disturbed. At the same time, be prepared with a quantity of recently rotted turf sods, or fresh earth, which has been mixed up two or three months with a third part of good stable or barnyard manure ; fork over the borders both outside and inside of the house, and add % dressing of three inches thick of the above compost. If *he crowns were planted slightly elevated, as before recommended, this dressing will make the surface level and greatly assist the production of young rootlets next spring, besides protecting the tender fibres through the winter. Over the whole area may be put a good coating 66 THE GRAPE. of litter/ dung, tree leaves, or other such material to keep out the frost, and which may remain as a mulching next summer. Nothing further is now required, hnt to shut up the house on severe nights and wet weather, till the bad* •how signs of bursting in the following spring. CHAPTER VI. MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAK AND PERMANENT TREATMENT FOR THE COLD GRAPERY. The following observations contain directions for the treatment of a planting of vines in the second year, tli6 permanent management of the Cold Grapery, and some other details of a general character. As the winter milds off, and warm sunny days com- mence, give air sufficient to keep the house cool, and to prevent the buds from pushing as long as possible. If too soon excited, the young shoots are in danger of being injured by the late spring frosts, and cold storms. When it is perceived that the buds are swelling, and can no longer be kept back, take the covering off carefully, and tie the vines down in the form of an arch, with the heads leaning from the glass, as in this position they am not so subject to injury in case frost should occur; there is also the advantage of causing a more lateral propelling force to the rising sap, which is compelled to develop the lower buds with more certainty, and this action once gained, with after good management always remains. &ive a good and thorough soaking of water to the inside borders, which by this time will have become very dry, also syringe overhead two or three times a day, excepting when the weather is cold, or frost is to be expected, they will be assisted thereby to break uniformly and strong 68 THfi GRAPE. The temperature should now he regulated as advised fbi the same period last year, in the preceding chapter. When the young shoots begin to elongate, sling the canes loosely to the wires, but some distance from the glass, as the further off for a short time the safer they will be from accidental frosty nights. So soon as danger i« past, tie them finally in their places, leaving the strings loose enough for future swelling, and be careful in training the leading shoot upwards, as at this time it is very brittle and easily broken. If not quite straight with the older cane, the better way is to bring it into the right position, a little at a time, when the woody fibre begins to form in the base. The bunches will now be clearly discernible, and when they have fairly unfolded from the buds, so as to show their form, and comparative strength, take out all except- ing the strongest and handsomest one upon each shoot, and remove likewise the tops of the side branches, beyond the third or fourth leaf above the bunch. These will again break from the top eye, and as they do so, from time to time, nip out the leader to one leaf above where it was last stopped ; this keeps the branches within bounds, and at the same time leaves sufficient foliage to mature the fruit and perfect growth. When the blossoms begin to expand withhold water overhead, let the atmosphere become somewhat drier, and keep up a little more heat, and if the weather will allow it, a freer circulation of air, from 85° to 90° at mid-day is not too much, close with good warmth in the afternoon and open soon enough in the morning, to prevent a scald- ing smell in the house. At all times, with a clear sun in the morning, ventilate so soon as the house begins to warm a little, and close early ; the temperature by these means rises and falls gradually. Nothing is worse in all plant MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 69 cultnre, ilian allowing a house to be closed until it becomet hot, and admitting at once a great quantity of cold air; in grape growing, it leads to the most baneful results. Open 60on, and close early, ought to be a maxim well riveted on the mind. Always have a thermometer hanging mid- way in the house, about four feet from the ground, and shaded from the sun ; observe it closely, and be guided by it, and experience in ventilating will soon be acquired, better than can be described by words — always remem- bering that a gradual rise and fall are the desiderata. Attention for a little while will teach, that early closing tends to regulate the heat in the after part of the day, and a due observance will lead to exact adaptability. As the flowers continue to open, go over the house once a day, and shake the bunches by a light flirt of the finger, which assists in distributing the pollen, and enables impregnation to go on with more certainty. This opera- tion is best if performed in the morning, about the time or immediately after giving air, as the flowers of all plants are then in greater activity, and consequently there is the chance of more perfect fertilization. There are certain kinds, as the Alexandrian Muscat and its allies, — purple damask, &c v which do not readily fertilize with their own pollen in a cold house ; that may be much assisted by shaking over the flowers a bunch of Hamburgh or other hardy sort, and as there are more bunches than is required for ripening, there is always enough to spare for this purpose. When blossoming is past, and the berries are fairly sot, a good syringing over-head will clean all the decayed portions of flowers which cling to and among the berries and will invigorate the whole plant. Let water now be freely administered over every part, being careful that at no time it is driven with force against the fruit, as in sucb case it injures the surface, and produces " rust." 70 THE GRAPE. It will now be plainly seen which are the best set and handsomest bunches, and as there aro more than it is ad- visable to ripen off, on account of the youth jf the vines, and the consequent danger of overbearing, thereby injuring their permanent prosperity, it will be better to reduce the number according to the strength of the plant, or weight of the bunch. A cane of three-fourths inch diameter may be allowed to carry from six to seven, and one of half an inch; five to six pounds ; but when they are smaller than this, only one, or at most two bunches ought to remain. Some kinds form much larger bunches than others, which may be ascertained in some measure while young, and the number may be calculated accordingly. A well shouldered Hamburgh will weigh from one and a half to two and a half pounds; if very large, from three and a half to four pounds ; while the Malvesia is a large bunch of its kind at ten ounces. Better to be guided by comparative weight than number of bunches, as greater equality is gained, and the vines are rendered more uniform in vigor afterwards. Be it remembered, that it is much more diffi- cult to bring back energy where a part is injured, than when the whole is so, for the well-doing will take the lion's share of nutriment from the borders. In removing the superfluous clusters take out the worst formed and most weakly, and let the greater part be near the top of the plant, leaving the bottom spurs as free as possible ; for a vine while young is prone to push its strongest growth upwards. By bearing the upper part the heaviest, the circulation is equipoised, and the lower laterals are re lieved, and if the flow is encouraged to take a lateral course at first, it is much easier to retain the same after wards. There is no occasion to crowd all the crop at the top, only let the greater part be there and the object is accomplished MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 71 All is now to be considered in full action, — the grapes about the size of peas, and swelling fust, when it becomes necessary to commence thinning out the superfluous berries. First, tie out the side branches, in a horizortal position to the wires, if not already done •, then fasten a string to the end of each shoulder, and sling it up, at right angle with the stalk, to the wires also ; the smaller clus- ters may now be opened out by inserting small strips of wood, notched on the two ends, under them, and supported upon the projecting stalks below. This will open out the bunch, and prevent the weight of each cluster from bear- ing upon the lower berries. Next, proceed to cut out a part of the berries, commencing at the bottom, and leaving those for ripening far enough apart to allow the aggregate to swell up, without squeezing each other individually when fully grown. Some care is required in this operation, and also a little idea, for the object is to leave to each berry sufficient space to allow for full development, and yet not so far apart as to make the bunch loose and straggling. No exact rule can be given as to distance required, but generally, one half to two thirds ought to be cut away ; the larger berried kinds will need more thin- ning than the smaller, there is also a great difference in the setting, but a reference to the descriptive list hereafter given will be a guide ; the latest sorts too, and those in- tended to hang longest, should be more distant than the others ; for, when a little assunder from each other, the grapes keep much longer than when they are crowded. An experienced hand can tell pretty accurately how to thin, so as to make once going over nearly suffice, but for beginners, it is perhaps better to perform the operation at two or three times as they swell up After the first year's practice the right idea is gained, and there is no difficulty afterward*. When thinning, do not handle the berries, 72 THE GRAPE. or let the hair rub them, for while young, the skins ar« very soon injured, when they become disfigured, and marked with a russety roughness which is technically called rust. Continue to keep up a temperature of 90° to 100° through the day, and use water freely ; damp the lower part of the house two or three times between morning and evening, and, when syringing at sundown, force the water into all crevices and corners of the wood-work, to dislodge insects. Where this is attended to, red spider, or other such pest, will never do any harm. Do not wait until these vermin make their appearance, but always act on the principle, " prevention is better than cure.'* As the leading shoot continues to progress, train it over the top to the opposite side, as advised for last year, and when it interferes with the fruit spurs in its downward course, pinch out the top, as it would cause too much crowding, and deprive the leaves from receiving due light. In very dry weather it will be necessary to use water on the outside borders ; generally, one or two applications is enough for the season ; but if severe drought should continue, it will be advisable to repeat the operation every two weeks, till the fruit begins to color ; after which there is no occasion for more, as there will be plenty of moisture in the ground for all purposes. Were it not so generally considered that large berries are a part of perfection, we should be disposed to recommend the withholding of water at an earlier period ; and those who would prefer a rich, sugary grape, regardless of size, will be more sure to get it by using water very sparingly after the stoning process is fairly secured. Under these circumstances there is also a better chance of producing good color, as the drier the atmosphere and borders of a Cold Grapery, the less dangei MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. /$ of mildew ; consequently, a greater supply of fresh ah *«ay be admitted with safety, the result of which is, more ? >Jid Ity of fruit, a greater concentration of saccharine ma:ier, and, as a matter of course, a nearer approach to the natural shades of color. When water is applied outside,- let it be a thorough soaking — no mere dribbling, but sufficient to penetrate down and through the borders. The mulching which was applied previous to winter should also be ex- amined, and if the surface is not well covered, add mo/e. If the liquid drainings of a dunghill can be had, so mt h the better ; but, first, dilute with an equal portion of & ft or rain water, and never use it but in a clear state, is otherwise it clogs up the porosity of the soil, and renrLrs it sodden and " sour." The drainage from a cow-houje is also very good, but ought not to be applied until some- what fermented, as, while caustic, the salts contained in it are very destructive to the roots. Many persons apply liquid manures, of various kinds, without caution, and often do much injury thereby, while, if rightly used, they are of the greatest advantage. By the second week in July, some of the earliest sorts will begin to change foi ripening, when water may be dispensed with overhead, but still applied to the roots in clear weather, which will cause the atmosphere to be drier. With the ripening of the fruit comes also an approach towards maturity of the wood, and during this period, water is only essential to keep up a healthy action, and should be gradually discontinued. As a little quantity, often distributed, only damps the surface, and the evaporation resulting therefrom produces a moist at. mosphere when a dry one is wanted, the times of applying it ought to be less often ; but when done, a good soaking should be given. Once a week, for two or three weeks, will be enough, and after that time once in two weeks, up to the Diddle of September, when it may be withheld entirely. 4 74 THE GRAPE. As the grapes couth, ue to color, admit more air hi deal days, open the 1 >wer ventilators, a little at first, gradually increasing, till a free current is obtained, which will assist very much in improving the quality in all respects, and likewise help in ripening the wood. After all are ripe, the house may be thrown open day and night, excepting in storms or wet weather, when it ought to be partially closed, so as to exclude the rain, and at the same time leave air to prevent the grapes from be- coming mouldy or cracked. When frosty nights begin to occur, the house ought to be closed in the evening, and opened again early in the morning. Let the temperature gradually cool down, but keep the leaves from injury, for the grand object now is to preserve them until they fall off perfectly ripe, when we know that nature is satisfied, and the wood sufficiently matured to insure all requirements for another season's development. Immediately after the leaves are fallen is the best time to prune ; and as we are now considered to be dealing with vines which have had two summers' growth, cut down the cane of the present season to the same length, according to size or vigor, and likewise disbud it, as ad- vised for the last fall pruning, which will make a total length from the bottom of nine to twelve feet. Cut the side spurs to three or four buds from the extreme base, according as they may be plump or well rounded, and at the same time peel off the loose bark from the outside of the stem which has two seasons' growth, but do not injure that which is immediately beneath the loose outer cover- ng, nor remove any from the side spurs, or the present Bummer's c?ne. The object of this peeling is to prevent the lodgment of insects ; with this exception, it would be better left on, for nature never forms any covering bat MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 7£ what is useful ; but as this outer and loose bark is virtu ally dead, it is of no further use than protection against cold ; so that if the vines are carefully covered from ex treme frost, there is no harm in taking it off. The vines may now be washed over with the prepara- tion, as advised for last year, and brought down into the same horizontal position; and as it is not easy to cover the spurs, if wrapped around with straw, the better way is to have long, narrow boxes, open at the ends, or to cover loosely with mar4i hay, or evergreen boughs. Let the house remain open through the winter, excepting in stormy, wet, or very severe frosty weather, and shut up the doors at night, f ,o prevent rats or mice from getting in, as they will gnaw the bark, and do much mischief. It is a good plan to kr/.p a cat inside. A week or lld wind. Cloudy, with snow. Cloudy, with fog. Clear. Cloudy. Clear. Partially cloudy. Clear, strong wind. Clear. .61.42 Cloudy .60.43 .67.42 1.42.41 1.43.33 .36.29 1.35.29 .59.38 .58.42 Cloudy. with sleet Clear. Clear Hazy, heavy snow and wind at night Storm continued. Storm continued. Cloudy morning. Clear. Grizzly Frontignan begin to burst the buds. White Frontignan and Chc»- selas bursting. Hamburghs and Tokay r.orst ing. Muscat bursting. Syringing continued morning and evening. Tied up Chassela8 Fontaine bleau. Tied up Frontignans. " Tokay. " Hamburghs. " Muscat Tied side branches to wiree as they continued to elon- gate, stopping the weak est four, and the strong est at three leaves above the bunch ; syringing also attended to Hamburghs in b'oorr. Chasselas ' Frontignan ; " Muscats " Water over-head withhe.d and fertilization assisted by jerking the bunches 10 the middle of the day or ■ 'ittle before aoon THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE, 89 ftATE. INSIDE. OUTSIDE WEATHER. REMARKS. »;ri] 20. 92.67 32.64.44 " Grapes begining to «*stoE*. 8tli|64.9i.6H 41.68.49 " 9th66.88.67 40.74.59 « I0llv65.89.68 54.81.59 Partially cloudy. 11th 63.90.65 55.81.60 Hazy. 12th 66.95.67 58.82.54 Clear. 13lli 65.92.61 58.77.61 Foggy morning. 14th 63.88.67 57.79.59 Fog, with showers. 15th 61.9U.65 5^.84.58 Clear. 16th 64.97.68 58.84.5J Foggy morning. 17m 65.90.65 56.73.58 Fog with showers 18th 64.87.70 58.81.59 Foggy. 19i h 63.91.67 57.81.56 Clear. aofti 65.87.66 56-78.58 " 21st 64.86.67 56.75.57 Cloudy 22d 63.91.65 i6. 78.58 Clear. 23d 165.92.66 54.77.54 '« 24th 62.93.65 53.74.54 " 25th 63-84.70 53.70.58 Cloudy. Water overhead discon 26th 65-91.66 56.79.58 Clear. tinued. 27th 64-93.65 59.. 79. 56 " Commenced to open lowei 28th 66-95.70 59.84.66 « ventilators. •29th 64.93.65 54.73.56 " 30thl65-90.67 57.71.56 Cloudy. Grizzly Frontignan begin 3l8tl66.91.71 56.72.58 Clear. to color. ranr lst;64.90.6S IT -72.48 " Chasseias begin last swell 2d 66.90.61 48-82.54 u ing. 3d 67.91.68 57-81.62 u Water entirely discontinued 4th 66.92.71 59-82.651 " 5thi68.61.69 Bl-89.661 " 6ih)67. 92. 68161-82. 63| " 7th 66. 90. 871*5 1 -78.66'Cloudy afternoon. Hamburghs begin to color 8th 6S 92.66'62.85.64iVTisty till noon 9th 65.9H 64|60-72.57telear. IO1I168 91 70'6t-84.64l " Muscats begu> '0 e*lor. 11 th 69 . 92 . 69]64 • 88 . 63lHazy. lzth 66. 93. 66 [61. 83. 64 Thunder Storm I3th|69. 94. 65|64.66. 63 Showery. 14thl68.93.67J62.8S.60 Thundei showers. 15th|67 . 92 . 6816I . 86 . 66 Shower) 16th 66. 9 1. 64 65. 81. 60 Clear. Ha*y. 1 lVth|64. 92. 63 60.72.58 18th 1 »5. 92.711, )7.91.70 'Jear. 90 THE GRAPifi. OATB INSIDE. OUTSIDE. WEATHER. REMARKS. Jane 19th 69.9-1.69 6E.96.68 Clear. 20th 72.91.73 71.95.74 >« Cut ChasselasFontainet'eao, 21st 73.93.65 71.90.61 Cloudy afternoon. ripe. 22d 71.92.64 68 72.61 " " 23d 65.87.63 60.73.61 Cloudy with rain. Cut White Frontignan. 24lh 66.90.63 57.81.60 Clear. Cut Grizzly Frontignan. 25th 65.91.62 58.77.58 u 26th 67.93.69 59.82.68 Partially cloudy. 27th 70.97.69 65.98.66 Thunder showers. Cut Hamburghs. 28 th 68.91.73 68.85.72 " " Cut Cannon Hall Muscat. 29th 71.93.68 6S.86.65|CIear. Cut Muscat of Alexandria, SOthj 64.87.71 58.81.70|Cloudy with rain. After inw time the house was kept open at all times, excepting during *?ty Itrong winds, or severe storm, and an occasional soaking of water was given cnret the l&avea to destroy insects and keep up a healthy action. CHAPTER VIII. POT CULTURE. The growing and fruiting of the grape-vine in pots 01 tubs is, in some parts of Europe, very much practised at the present day, and some of our best practical men in this country are in favor of its being more generally adopted. As this mode requires the most vigilant care, we must consider the annual amount of labor incurred in watering, potting, and other attention which is required, besides the expense of pots or tubs in which to grow the plants, and also the continual raising of fresh stock. On the other, or credit side, there is the difference with regard to accom- modation and conveniences ; pot culture takes up no space outside the house ; the expense of outer borders, covering, &c, is avoided ; but there is a yearly item in prepared compost which only amounts to about the sum that top- dressings would require — a manure-water tank, or cistern, is absolutely necessary to supply the vines with nourish- ment, while growing freely ; but this is a thing that ought to be on every place that pretends to good gardening. As to house-room, what will produce a given quantity of fruit by the usual mode, will do the same in pot culture ; and all things considered, if sufficient care and attention cau be relied on at all times, the latter mode has the prefer ence ; still it ought to be borne in mind, that without all this, a poor sample of watery fruit will be the only reward, while with it, fine grapes, of good quality, can be realized and, considering the contingencies, it is only advisat^e to adopt this system as a first early crop. 92 THE GRAPE. If we consider that each fruiting plant in this case wiD occupy one square yard, which is about an average, a house twelve feet wide will accommodate three rows, and admit room for a pathway ; and allowing forty feet as the length, there will he house-room for thirty-nine vines, npm each of which may be ripened six to seven pounds of grapes, which will make the whole crop from two hun- dred and thirty to two hundred and seventy pounds weiguv. If the vines were planted out three feet apart, in the U3ual way, the same house would contain thirteen plants to the roof, and the same number on the back wall ; but as the lafcver will only hold good for two or three years, on account of shade, or may hav« been used up by previous cropping, they can only be put down as a small set-off against the advantages oa the other side. These thirteen vines, if forced equally early, cannot be expected to produce more than an aveiage of fifteen pounds, which will give a total of one hundvud and ninety- five pounds. If the above calculations be correct — and we judge from practical experience in the matter— the weight of produce is in favor of pot culture ; but as we would not mislead, it is necessary to repeat, that the samt quality is not to be obtained without skill, and the mosi careful attention. There may appear to be an objection to pot culture, from the general understanding, that when the root.fi of a grape-vine are confined in so small a space, it will only bear one remunerative crop, and is afterwards useless; alfo, that a preparatory house will be needed for succession plants ; thus keeping occupied two compartments. As to the first, it is an error to suppose that a second, or even a third fruiting, may not be obtained from the same plants, if the roots are allowed to pass through the bottoms of the pots into the base beneath, which ought to be made suita POT CULTURE. 93 ble and fertile for the purpose. Under these circumstan ces, and with the addition of liquid manure, there will he enough organized matter stored up for another season to maintain and develop all the next year's requirements But allowing that only one fruiting could be realized, it is presumed that the crop would be ripe by the middle of May at the latest, and either all cut, or fit for removal to another and cooler apartment ; and as in such case the planU would not be wanted again, the roots that may have gone into the base below might be cut off, without any detriment to the quality of the fruit. The young succes- sion plants previous to this will have been only in a state of propagation, and have occupied no more space or head room than a tolerably deep hot-bed frame would furnish ; so that, after the flooring of the house is again forked over, and a quantity more manure added, this young stock may be brought in, and established in their permanent position Thus will one house, with the exception of a small pit, or hot-bed, answer all purposes, and will be kept constantly at work. Vines for this purpose may be propagated from " eyes " in the usual way, by coiling, and by layers — (see Propaga- tion). When eyes are used, the young plants, after being well rooted, ought to be encouraged by plenty of pot room, and a fine genial, growing temperature maintained, similar to that used for fruiting. The most suitable compost is the peeling, or upper sw^rd of a gcod pasture, which has laid together until the grass is dead, but not further de- composed. Chop this into small pieces with the spade add an equal quantity of well decomposed barn-yard ma- nure, and if there are any clean broken bones to be had, or, what is the next best substitute, lime-rubbish, mix a quantity, say one-eighth part, and as much or more of charcoal lumps. This furnishes an open, porous, yet rich 94. THE GRAPE. material, in which the roots will ramify very freely. At the first move from the striking-pot an ordinarily fertile soil is best, and the pot may be a quart in measure. A* the young plant continues to progress, and has grown a foot or eighteen inches in height, it will be safe to remove into one of a gallon size, using the prepared compost, and make sure of efficient drainage by throwing over the bot- tom a couple of inches of crocks, or, still better, pieces of charcoal ; over this put a portion of the roughest of the compost, and fill in to near the top with the finer part, after having placed the plant in its proper place and position. Be careful not to break the ball of earth, during removal, when the pot is turned upside down, which may be pre- vented by giving the upper edge a smart rap on any solid eubstanee near at hand, and keeping the fingers over the under surface, so as to receive the whole as it becomes liberated. After potting, give a good watering, and as the stems continue to elongate, tie them up carefully to stakes, until they have attained the height of seven feet, when the tops may be pinched off. Throughout the season the uppermost eyes will continue to push fresh growth, which ought to be stopped, each time, one leaf above the pre- vious operation. The object of this is to prevent the young vines from extending so much growth as would cause the lower leaves to be shaded, and consequently not able to elaborate the juices sufficiently to produce matured buds in the axils, the result of wKch is, a deficiency in the formation of the embryo fruit. If the plants are kept in a brisk and moist heat, and properly attended to by syring ing and watering of the roots, they will progress fast, and by the middle of July will be ready to be placed in the fruiting-pots, which ought to be from three to four gallons, according to the luxuriance of the vine, or robustness of the yariety. The same process as to potting inuwt be POT CULTURE. 95 gone through at this as at the last remove, and the same material used, and particular care should be taken ^hat no worms, or the larvae of beetles be in the c< mpost. It is a good plan to use a little caustic powdered lime through the mass, a short time previous to using, which is sure U have the desired effect, and is likewise beneficial to the plart. Throughout the whole summer the same treatment, with regard to heat, moisture, &c, that is suitable for planted- out, vines will be right for those in pots ; and if the best management has been observed, at the end of the growing season, the canes will be well matured, correspondingly thick, and in a fit state for fruiting the next year. In the foil they may be cut back, the strongest to three feet, and the weaker ones to two feet six inches above the pot, and If there be a portion that are not strong enough to bear fruit, it is best to head them back to the lowest good bud »t the same time. These latter, in the spring following, may be removed out of the pots, and the soil shaken from the roots, which ought to be somewhat shortened in, and the plant again replaced, using fresh compost of the same kind, with the exception of a small quantity of good, fresh earth, but only sufficient of this to merely cover the roots, and keep the richer material from coming in close contact until the young fibres are emitted. Young, healthy roots will push into and luxuriate in a base that would destroy those which are mutilated ; hence the caution. When the coiling method is adopted (see Propagation, page 133), the fruiting-sized pot may be used at once, and the after treatment will be the same as for the others This is the best method for obtaining strong vines for pot culture in the least possible time, and when there is a surplus supply of canes from other houses at pruning time, they may be used to advantage for this purpose. A pot vine, if properly managed, is certainly a pleasing 96 THE GRAPE. and very pretty object, but much depends upon the nicetj of training. To gain this advantage, the plant ought not to be longer than is actually necessary, and the fruiting branches should be as near the surface of the pot as is consistent with securing good plump buds to start from, which can be mostly gained with a cane of two feet six inches to three feet long. After it is seen which shoots will produce the best bunches, choose six or seven which are nearly equidistant from each other, between the top and bottom, and as they elongate tie them out horizontally, diverging on all sides from the stem, which may be very neat- ly done by fixing a wire trellis, as seen in fig. 15, inside the pot. This is also ser- viceable to suspend the shoulders of the bunches to, and if not made of too heavy material, is scarcely visible, being decidedly preferable to a display of wooden supports. It should, however, be put over the plant before much growth has progressed, or there — «- is danger of breaking the young shoots. Fig. is. When the plants are to be fruited more than one season, the double spur method, page 117, is best, as it gives a greater choice of good buds, — a matter of some conse- quence when the wood is not over strong, and inder these circumstances the bearing shoots may be cut clean away so soon as the fruit is cut, which admits the light and sun to the remaining leaves on the maiden spurs, thereby enabling them to have full scope, and uninterrupted free- dom during the after part of the summer. Immediately after the leaves are fallen is the best time to prune, and at the same time, the roots that have gone into the soil below may be cut away, the p^ts cleaned, and the vines washed over with the mixture, page 65. Let all now £0 POT CULTURE. 97 quietly to rest for a time by keeping a low temperature with plenty of air night and day, and only giving enough water to prevent the roots and branches from shrivelling, Two or three weeks before commencing afresh, the plants ought to be carefully turned out of the pots without dis turbing the balls, the roots examined, and any decayed portions cut clean off; at the same time take away a portion of the outer soil, and after putting a good quantity of drainage into each clean pot, again place the plant as before, filling in with some of the before-mentioned com- post. Before they are again placed in their permanent situation, let the under base be forked over, and some more decomposed barn-yard manure added. When growth is progressing freely, at all times, from the showing of the fruit until it is ripe, clear liquid manure ought to be applied; on this, in a great measure, depends success, or the best of quality. Each third or fourth supply of water should be, either diluted drainage from the dung- hill, or guano dissolved, in the quantity of one ounce to the gallon, and if these two are alternated it is still better The remainder of the treatment required is the same as f:>r other culture, and if th3 above directions are observed, fchere is no fear of failure. CHAPTER IX. THE RETARDING HOUSE. The object of th3 Retarding House is the reverse of the Early Grapery. In the latter we wish to forward as much as possible the ripening of the fruit, while in the former, the intention is to retard it so far as can be done. It is therefore evident that the two features require very different management ; in fact, in one, the process really and truly speaking, if judiciously applied, gives to the vine the requirement of its own or original constitution, by the assistance of artificial heat at the time when the plant is best able to be benefited by it, while the other has the same applied, only to keep out the frost at mid- winter, and to create a dry atmosphere when the fruit is hanging ripe, for the purpose of preserving it. From what has been previously explained, it will be readily seen that some difficulty must occur, when we are trying to carry out in cultivation anything that is opposed to nature, or attempting to thwart her established vitality ; such becomes true here, for, our intention is to stay as much as possible that free and brisk action which alone will ensure the best results, notwithstanding which, as we have an object in view, and the demands of luxury must be supplied, our skill is brought into requisition, and to a certain extent the difficulty is overcome. The general routine, in this case, will be the endeavor to keep back the precocity of the fruit by all consistent means —■one of which is to avoid the very earliest varieties ; ar 198) THE RETARDING HOUSE. 99 other, securing the right aspect of the house, which is fully explained, page 37. It is also essentially requisite to give free ventilation, both day and night, excepting in severe weather, during the whole of the spring months, by which a cool temperature may be maintained, and the early flow of the sap prevented. When it is seen that the buds can be no longer kept from bursting, the house may be closed, but as it is not advisable to raise so high a temperature in this, as in the other successions, there ought not to be so much water applied, because, if it be too liberally supplied in this counteraction of the natural energy, there would be too much moisture absorbed from the atmosphere by the leaves, and from the soil by the roots ; the consequence of which would be too great a preponderance of fluid matter, without an equivalent amount of carbonized and solid material, and hence, a plethoric state of the whole structure — a liability to disease — want of fertility in the blossoms — a bad set of inferior berries — and consequently, poor quality of badly flavored fruit. Water may, how- ever, be administered with discretion. According as the growth progresses, as it is more or less active, or the weather is wet and cold, or dry and hot, so let the water be given or withheld. When the leaves are fully develop- ed, the shoots stopped, and the blossoms expanded, syring- ing may be entirely discontinued, excepting occasionally on bright mornings, for, unless due caution be exercised during the remainder of the growing season, there is danger of mildew. This troublesome guest is more likely to attack the Retarding House than any other, and conse quently, greater vigilance is necessary. It is most gener- ally to be apprehended while the fruit is swelling, and before the carbonaceous matter has become so far concen- tiated as to be relieved from the greater overplus of acidity; and as the secretions of the plants in this house 100 THE GRAPE. are in such a state, during the months of July and Augi.st. when the sporules of the fungus are most active, it is very jieeessary to keep careful watch, and avoid as much as possible all sudden transitions of temperature; do not allow the house to be closed until it becomes hot, but admit air freely whenever required; be wary of bottom drafts, keep the lower ventilators closed in damp weather and if such continues for any length of time with a humid atmosphere, a little artificial heat may be applied for the time being, with the upper ventilators opened, which will keep down the thermometer, dry the air, and stay the progress of the mildew if it be present, or prevent its germination if not so. Sulphur aught to be liberally strewed over the floor for the same purpose, and if a small quantity be thrown on the flue, avoiding the hottest end, or on any part of the hot water pipes, as the case may be, there need not be any fear of its ravages extending. An- other mischief to be expected at times to this crop is, shrivel and shanking, the best means of avoiding which is to continue the same regularity of management that has been observed through the whole progress, and until the fruit is colored ; after this period there is no danger, and the house may afterwards be left open constantly, or par- tially, or entirely closed, as the weather may he wet or frosty. A portion of the grapes in this house will have to remain on the vines during the winter, and must be kept quite dry and free from frost, which makes it necessary to use a trifle of fire-heat at times, just enough, but not more than, to answer the purpose; and if the berries were not well thinned at the proper time, they ought to be furthei reduced in number now, so that they may hang loosely, thereby preventing close contact, and admitting a free circulation around each. As the fruit often remains beyond the usual time of THE RETARDING HOUSE. 101 pruning', it is well not to make a general rule of cutting all at once, or leaving the vines until the crop is cleared, but do it so soon as the leaves are turned yellow, or fallen ; and the whole of the fruit is gathered on each separate plant, which will enable the operator to accomplish a gr od part of this work sooner, and give a portion of the stock a better chance of the same action that we always find of service, by a periodical and judicious pruning in all other instances. This is more strictly applicable where the spur method is adopted, but is nevertheless to be recom- mended for the long rod, as the latter offers greater facili- ties than the former, because there is a less disposition to break or burst the buds, with a young and strong cane in early spring, than with spurs ; and as the whole of the previous bearing shoot is taken away, there is only one cut exposed to the danger of bleeding; a subject of some importance, if the fruit has been kept on the vine until late. In such case, immediately on removing the branch, the severed surface should be covered over with a coating of grafting wax, white lead, or, what is still better, finely powdered oyster-shells and cheese, worked together into a thick cement, and a portion rubbed well into the exposed pores. This, we repeat, ought to be done immediately after pruning, and all danger of bleeding will be avoided. It is of little use to attempt to stop the sap after it has commenced to flow, for there is a propelling power in the action of a plant at this time that is truly wonderful ; and although there is not so much injury from the loss of a portion of the fluid as some persons would have us believe- still it is better to prevent the waste, for it certainly does check, to some extent, the full burst of nature, as we have often satisfactorily proved. It may be thought, from the preceding caution, and seeming uncertainty, that the Retarding House ought to be 102 THE GRAPE. abandoned ; £o it ought, were it not for the desirableneai of having ripe grapes at mid-winter, and before the earliest house can be made to produce them ; and it certainly is, these advantages considered, worth a little trouble and ex Ira care. In taking a review of the various succession crops here- tofore treated on, we may now calculate how long it is possible to have ripe grapes fresh from the vine. The First Early can be had from the beginning of May, and will continue to the middle of June, when the Second Early will be ready, and give a supply until the middle of August. The Cold Grapery now comes in, and will furnish a general quantity till the middle of November ; after this, the Retarding House gives its quota on to the last of Feb- ruary, which collectively leaves only two months deficient, or without a supply ; and as there are some kinds, as the Muscats, Frontignans, and Ohasselas, that may be pre- served by care, and if it is absolutely required, even in this remaining short period, a far better sample may be furnished than is to be had from the finest quality of im- ported raisins; so that, where expense is no object, and the luxury is demanded, it may be enjoyed without intei mission. If the air of the grapery be kept dry enough, some grapes will remain good on the vine until they become raisins ; but it is not convenient at all times to leave them so, and in such case, those that are to be preserved may be cut when they can no longer be left When they are removed, the bunches ought to be carefully examined, and all injured or decayed berries cut out, and suspended, the reverse way to that in which they were grown, by hooked wires fixed to a frame-work, so that each bunch and berry may hang free from contact, and they will re- quire to be kept in a very dry room, partially excluded THE RE1 iRDING HOUSE. 10S ^om tlie light, and where there is enough fire at suitable times to keep the temperature from 40° to 50°. A well- planned fruit-room is all that is needed, and where there is not such a convenience, the above hints may assist in directing attention to some other apartment about the premises that will answer the purpose, and enable the lover of this ambrosial fruit to enjoy to the fullest extent this munificent gift of our benevolent Creator. CHAPTER X LIST OF VARIETIES. To begin to individualize, or render a plain exposition to the uninitiated in grape nomenclature, is a very difficult affair. As it now stands before the public, it is nothing more than a heterogeneous jumble of confusion, and the search after a thoroughly practical understanding of the matter requires more time, patience, and expense, than even the enthusiast would be willing to encounter in the investigation, if he only knew beforehand the maze he had to travel through. To such an extent have the various synonymes become multiplied, that the examination of them shows clearly the ridiculousness of the number, and the only way of extricating the subject from the tiresome burden of incongruity, is by making use only of a few that we know are most familiar in the society in which we live, and only introducing such kinds as are distinct, or worthy of cultivation, headed by the most popular name by which it is known in our midst. It would be no difficult matter to introduce and describe some hundred so-called varieties, but when they were applied for, and obtained, which they might be from the various nurseries in our own country and Europe, the half of them would prove to be merely duplicates, — nay, we will go further, and aerert that not more than a fourth, from some places, if thus sought after, will be really distinct; besides, were the expected variety to be forthcoming undei such circumstances a great por- tion are only novelties and would lead to chagrin and (104) LIST OF VARIETIES. 105 vexation when they were proved. We take in tfiis case a utilitarian view of the subject, and would leave the further action open to those of unlimited means and un- controlled enthusiasm to go along with their own fancy They cannot be better employed, and the results of theii labors will be of the same national benefit as is that of the only theoretical and experimental farmer; good collec fcively, at the expense of the individual, and praiseworthy: without profit, to the searcher after progressive improve- ment. It is to the exertions of such laudable persons that we are indebted for much of our knowledge and gain, and such deserve more often than they receive the gratitude of their fellow men and a monument for their patriotism Having said thus much, it becomes our duty to keep our position, and give in the first place a general descriptive list of the best sorts in cultivation, and select out of the same those varieties that are adapted to the various pur- poses treated on. BLACK OR PURPLE. Black Hamburgh, (syn. Hampton Court Vine— Frankendale.) — Bunches large, compact and well shoul- dered. Berries large, round, black, flavor full and sweet The best black grape grown for table use. Victoria Hamburgh. — Similar to the above when true ; the berries somewhat larger and very black, and the bunches more tapering. Wilmott's Hamburgh. — Bunches very compact, ber ries large, very black, round, appearing (under good ^culture) as if hammered on the surface ; a fine grape, but not quite equal to the first in flavor. Wilmott's No. 16.— A seedling from Black Hamburgh and so like it as scarcely to be distinguished. Miller's Burgundy, (syn. Miller Grape) — Buncbe* 6* 106 THE GRAPE. short and close, berries roundish oval, black, rather small, covered with a blue bloom, flavor not good until fully ripe. An early variety of second rate quality for the grapery, but suitable for out-door culture. The leaves of this sort are pubescent, hence its name from the white Jowny appearance. Black Cluster, (syn. Black July.) — Bunches small and clustered ; berries jet black, small, flavor sprightly but wanting in fullness, one of the very earliest kinds, but not worth room in the grapery. The leaves of this are free of the downiness mentioned in the last. West's St. Peters, (syn. Black Lombardy — Toonah — Raisin des Cannes.) — Bunches medium size, long, taper- ing, well shouldered ; berries medium size, oval, very black, covered with a blue bloom, very sweet and sprightly ; a fine late sort. Mitchell's St. Peters. — Similar to the above, but a handsomer bunch and berry. ZiNFINDAL. — Bunches long, peculiar in form, being some- times composed of two shoulders, berries roundish oval, black, sweet, but tame, a good hardy sort. BLnCK Frontignan. (syn. Black Constantia — Black Frontvgnac — Muscat noir de Frontignac.) — Bunches below medium size, tapering, small shouldered ; berries not large, round, niack, musky and sweet, a good grape, but bad to color, and in some houses subject to shank. Black Prince, (syn. Cambridge Botanic Garden— Alicant.y -Bunches long, tapering and well shouldered beiries a little above medium size, oval, black, very swee *nd sprightly, a first-rate sort. Schargk's Henling. — Bunches long, tapering, and clustered; berries small, oval, very black, sweet and brisk; pretty in form, and a seedling from the Burgundy. Black Tripoli (of Speechley). — Bunches in form like LIST OF VARIETIE& 107 HamLurgh, but rather loose; berries large, black, flavoi good ; useful ar i late grape. Espbrione syn. Cumberland Lodge — Blue Windsor.) —Bunclies taije shouldered; berries medium size, black with fine l> T n.*raj pretty, but second rate. Prince Albert, (syn. Royal Albert.) — Bunches large., heavy shouldered, and tapering; berries medium size round, black ; flesh solid, sweet and sprightly This is a very strong grower, and shy bearer, except in poor soil, otherwise it is a first-rate late sort. We are inclined to think that the Black Barbarossa will prove the same as this. Black Morocco, (syn. Black Muscadei.) — Bunches large and heavy shouldered ; berries large, ovoid, brownish black when fully ripe, flesh solid and only second quality ; a very late grape, and with fire-heat tolerably good. Purple Frontignan. (syn. Purple Constanlia — Blue Frontignan — Voilet Frontignan.) — Bunches long and tapering with small shoulders; berries medium size, blue black, flavor slightly musky, and agreeable. This grape and the true Black Frontignan are so generally mixed up in different collections, as to frequently lead to disputes in their individual identity ; our own observation inclines to distinctness of the two sorts, the black scarcely ever colors further than a brownish jet ; while the purple assumes a true bluish-black, even with ordinary culture. The former has also a stronger musky flavor, and will hang until they become raisins. Oldaker's St. Peters, (syn. Black St. Peters — Black Palestine.) — Bunches somewhat like Hamburgh, but loose, berries rather large, round, black ; flavor sweet ; a good late grape but not a very free bearer. WHITE AND AMBER COLORED. Ghasselas de Fontainebleau. (syn. Chassda* prt- White Chasselas — Royal Ghasselas — Chasselat di 108 THE GRAPE. Bu? Su? Aube.) — Bunches tapering, well-shouldei ed, me dium size ; berries round, medium size, amber-white j flavor sweet and full. One of the most reliable and early of white grapes, and the very best quality. Ma.lv asia. (syn. Grove-end Sweet Water — Early White Malvoise.) — Bunches rather below medium size small shoulders, tapering ; berries greenish-amber, below medium size, roundish oval, transparent, very sweet ; a good early kind. Golden Chasselas. — Bunches long and tapering; ber- ries medium size, round, yellowish-amber color; sweet and sprightly. With fire heat this is a good grape, but in the Cold Grapery it is often a bad setter, and is at all times somewhat uncertain. Royal Muscadine. — This grape is often considered to be the same as Chasselas Fontainebleau, although quite dis- tinct. The bunch of this variety is much larger, and the color more inclining to yellow. It is seldom seen true ; the last named being often substituted for it. Chasselas Musqjje. (syn. Muscat Blanc Hatif—Joslym St. Albans.) — Bunches medium size, tapering ; berries round, flattened on the end ; amber-white, musky, rich, and very sweet; a free bearer, and one of the finest grapes in cultivation ; it is, however, very liable to crack, if not well ventilated, and more than usually subject to shrivel. White Gascoine. — Bunches rather large, well-should- ered, tapering ; berries oval ; white, flavor good. Subject to crack sometimes in a damp house. A good sort. Verdelho. (syn. Madeira Wine Grape.) — Bunches ra- ther small, loose ; berries medium size, oval, yellowish- green, sweet, and pleasant ; a good variety and vigorous grower, but not a very free bearer. Whitr Tokav. (syn. True To/cay — Tokai Bloncs}~ LIST OF VARIETIES. 109 Bunches long and compact ; berries roundish-oval, median: size, white, sweet, and pleasant ; a fine sort, but subject to shrivel when growing in a wet border. White Frontignan. (syn. White Constantia — Whit\ Frontignac — Muscat Blanc.) — Bunches below medium size I »ng, small shouldered ; berries medium size, round, ligh amber, musky and sweet ; a fine early sort. Decon's Superb. ( syn Sahibee. ) — Bunches rathei large and handsome ; berries large, oval, amber color, ap- pearing as if frosted over the surface. This is a splendid looking grape, but of second quality ; and in a cold house often a bad setter. White Nice. ( syn. Xeres. ) — Bunches very large, and many shouldered; berries medium size, round, amber- white, sweet, and sherry tasted. A fine sort, and occa- sionally most extraordinarily large. It has been grown to nineteen pounds weight, but such bunches are only ex- ceptions. Many Spaniards to whom we have shown this grape, recognize it as the one from which sherry wine is made. Syrian. — Bunches very large, and heavy shouldered ; berries large, slightly oval, white and sweet. If we have at the present time any grape in cultivation which is the the one brought by spies out of the land of Canaan, this is the most likely sort. It is always large, and sometimes very heavy ; a fine late kind. White Lisbon, (syn. White Hamburgh — White Portu- gal) — Bunches sometimes large shouldered, large and ra- ther loose, but when well grown very handsome ; berrie? oval, white, large, solid ; flavor sweet, but only second rate This is the grape that is imported from Europe in jars. It is a fine sort for the Retarding House, as it keeps well and ripens late. Pitmaston White Cluster.— Bunches medium size 110 THE GRAPE. compact ; Lorries round, white, medium size, sweet, and good flavored. A fine early sort of the Chasselas class. Scotch White Cluster. — Very like the above. Groiyiier du Cantal. ( syn. Dccandolle?) — Bunches large, broad, heavy shouldered ; berries large, round, am- ber colored, blotched with purplish brown, sweel, and brisk flavored ; very thin skinned ; a good sort for imme diate use, but soon spoils. De la Palestine. — Bunches much branched, and very long, often two feet ; shoulders very numerous and long ; berries below medium size, oval, amber colored, very sweet. A good late fancy kind, and distinct in appear- ance. Dutch Sweet Water, (syn. Pearl Drop — Pareyl Druyf.) — Bunches medium size, compact, and well-should- ered ; in form like Hamburgh ; berries large, round, trans- parent, white, very sweet, skin thin. A fine early sort, seldom seen true, the old White Sweet Water being often substituted. Muscat of Alexandria, (syn. White Muscat — Ma- laga.) — Bunches handsome, well formed, and large ; ber- ries large, oval, amber colored, musky, and sweet. Un- questionably one of the finest grapes in cultivation, but requires artificial heat, particularly while in bloom. Cannon Hall Muscat. — Very like the above, but of more robust growth, and larger berries ; the bunches also are generally more tapering, and the stamens six, occasion- ally seven, in number. Muscat of Lunel. — Like the Muscat of Alexandria, with smaller berries. Charlesworth Tokay. — Bunches laige, long, and well shouldered; berries large, roundish oval, amber- white, rich, vinous, and musky. This is a good variety And sometimes mistaken for Muscat of Alexandria, «1 LIST OF VARIETIES. HI though quite distinct. The foliage of this is more Jeeply cut, and not reflexed on the edges. White Corinth. — Bunches tapering ; berries close seti small, very pretty, and prolific, a fancy kind. RED AND TAWNY COLORED. Red Traminer. — Bunches below medium size, shou[& ered and tapering; berries rather small, round, of a rus- sety-red color ; a good sort. This is one of the best wine grapos of the Rhine, and suitable in some situations for out door culture in our own climate. Red Ohasselas. (syn. Red Muscadine — Muscadim Rouge.) — Bunches medium size, shouldered ; berries me- dium size, round, sweet, and good. This variety is re- markable for having the berries red from the first, and afterwards changing to a lighter shade when ripe. The wood also is of a reddish color. Rose Ohasselas. (syn. Violet Chasselas.) — Bunches below medium size, shouldered ; berries below medium, round, rose color, sweet. A good sort. Austrian Muscat. — Bunches medium size, very com- pact ; berries closely set, roundish-oval, tawny-red ; skin thin. This grape is not unlike the Grizzly Frontignan either in flavor or appearance, but is not so good - and is subject to crack, but hangs long after being ripe. Grizzly Frontignan. (syn. Red Constantia — Grizzly Frontignac — Muscat Gris.) — Bunches tapering with small shoulders, below medium size. Berries, medium eize, round, grizzly red, musky, rich and sweet. A fine early grape, and hangs well after being ripe. Reine de Nice. (syn. Queen of Lombardy.) — Bunches very large, tapering, well-shouldered and handsome. Ber- ries large, oval, irregular on the surface, rose color; flesh hard and sweet. A fine late grape, but sometimes a shy 112 THE GRAPE. bearer if spurred in too close. It may be preserved at long as the imported White Lisbon. Flame-colored Tokay, (syn. Red Lombard}/.)— Bunches very large, well-shouldered and handsome berries large, close-set, roundish, pale red, sweet and sprightly. A fine late grape.* As most persons will only require to grow the finest quality, and many have but a limited space, the above list is reduced to the best twenty, ten, and five (including so far as can be a variety of color), as follows :— COLD GRAPERY, BEST TWENTY. Black Hamburgh, White Gascoine, Willmott's Hamburgh, White Frontignan, West's St. Peters, White Nice, Black Prince, Syrian, Black Frontignan, PitmastonWhite Cluster Zinfindal, De la Palestine, Red Traminer, Red Muscadine, Rose Chasselas, Grizzly Frontignan, Chasselas Fontainebleau, Reine de Nice, Chasselas Musque, Royal Muscadine, BEST TEN Black Hamburgh, Chasselas Fontainebleau, West's St. Peters, Syrian, Black Prince, Zinfindal, White Frontignan, Reine de Nice, Grizzly Frontignan, Chasselas Musqu6. BEST FIVE. Black Hamburgh, White Frontignan, West's St. Peters, Chasselas Fontainebleau Black Prince, FORCING HOUSE. BEST TEN. Cannon Hall Muscat, Chasselas Fontainebleau • To this list may safely be added Golden Hamburgh, a new English white grape ■f ureal ex ee H e n ce, and Bowood Muscat, another which promises to be yerv line LIST OP VARIETIES. 113 Muscat of Alrxandria, Grizzly Frontignan, Black Hamburgh, White Irontignan, Willmot's Hamburgh, Chasselas Musque, Dutch Sweetwater, Black Prince. BEST FIVE. Muscat of Alexandria, Grizzly Frontignan, Black Hamburgh, Black Prince. Chasselas Fontainebleau, RETARDING HOUSE. BEST TEN. Black Hamburgh, White Lisbon, Black Prince, Muscat of Alexandria, West's St. Peters, Willmot's Hamburgh, Prince Albert, Syrian, Eeine de Nice, Flame-colored Tokay. BEST FIVE. Black Hamburgh, Muscat of Alexandria, West's St. Peters, White Lisbon. Reine de Nice, POT CULTURE. BEST FIVE. Black Hamburgh, White Frontignan Chasselas Fontainebleau, Black Prince. Grizzly Frontignan, Where profit and quality combined are the objects in view, Black Hamburgh and Chasselas Fontainebleau in the C3ld Grapery, and Muscat of Alexandria added in the Forcing House, will take precedence; and we may here remark, that whatever care may be taken in impreg- nating the Muscats, where artificial heat is not used, the set will be uncertain, owing to a deficiency of heat and clear weather v in some seasons, at blooming time. The a 14 THE GRAPE. whole class requires more heat and a drier atmosphere than is necessary for any other sort ; they flourish best in countries which are often too arid and hot for the suc- cessful cultivation of grapes generally. In southern Spain and the warm and dry climates of Lima, and similar locali ties on the western coast of South America, they luxuriatt without much care or attention, and produce most abun dant crops of the finest fruit. Under cultivation, a dry atmosphere during the period of rest, and likewise at the time of the blossoms setting for fruit, is almost indispen- sably requisite ; lacking this in the first place, tie embryo flowers do not receive sufficient concentration, and a defi ciency of the same in the latter instance when they ex- pand, they have not power enough to impregnate healthily. By artificially fertilizing with other varieties, or even by their own pollen, this enfeebled condition is somewhat as sisted. Where the musky-flavored grapes are preferred, and fire heat is not to be applied, the want may be made up by planting an extra quantity of Frontignans and Ohasselas Musque, which is of the same class, and one of the finest quality — quite equal in this respect to the Muscats. All of these have the good property of hanging long aftei being ripe, and are also early varieties. The Ohasselas Musque is faulty from its liability to crack when swelling for ripening, but a free ventilation at the time, and a drier atmosphere, will considerably counteract this evil, and when once ripe, it will continue good for a long time. To give a long list of native grapes would be only penning a useless array of words, considering there are Bo few that are of sterling merit. Of late y«ar3 several enterprising cultivators have done something to improve the present quality by raising seedlings, among whom are Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnati, Dr. Underbill, of Oroton Point, and otters; but so far there is not much progress LIST OF VARIETIES. 115 to be reported. Two of the best we have at present are Isabella and Catawba, both of which are only natural seedlings ; the former from the species Labrusca, and the latter, which is the famous Wine Grape of the West most likely an accidental cross between Labrusca and Vulpina. What a wide field is there here for experiment [f we have advanced no further than what nature has J one for us, surely we are only on the first step towards that perfection which the energy of the country can ac- complish. The necessity of a thing has only to be seen, when ingenuity is set to work to bring about the desired ultimatum; and now we see this necessity, there is no doubt but ere long we shall have as great a variety with good quality for all purposes in the indigenous kinds, as are at present found in the foreign. This is no over- stretched notion, and we are confident that it both can and will be eventually accomplished. The American Pomolo gical Society at their last meeting came to the conclusion that the only sorts worthy of being considered best were Isabella, Catawba, and Diana, with a recommendation for further trial of the Concord.* That meeting contained the best knowledge throughout the country, and our own opinion is in strict accordance with their decision ; conse- quently it may be better to let this short notice serve for the present, with the hope that the desirable addenda will be forthcoming hereafter; and for this reason there is a chapter in its proper place on the raising of new kinds. As the Scuppernong class is found to flourish the best in the Southern States, the few varieties contained in it may be added for that region ; but these, like all the rest, are capable of great improvement; and it is very likely that if the best varieties of California and southern Texas be crossed upon them, a fine race would be obtained. • We may confidently accept, now, Delaware, Rtbecca, Hartford Prolific (for th« North), Clara and, perhaps, Anna. Many others remain to be better proved that Kt highly spoken of. See pages 209-211. CHAPTER XI. PRUNING AND TRAINING There are various methods of pruning and training the grape-vine, and each method has had its supporters. Good crops also have heen produced by many of them, under skilful hands, and no doubt will continue to be. The fact is, the grape-vine is so productive, and fruits so freely, even with very ordinary treatment, that bad indeed must oe the case when it ceases to \ield its luscious sweets, Yet while so submissive under ill usage, and grateful, as it were, for a common existence, like other creatures of na- ture's higher organization, its expansive powers will become contracted, and the tractable disposition rendered stubborn, by long continued abuse ; in which case, the quality of the fruit is deteriorated, the bunches are small, or the flavoi inferior ; and as pruning has something to do with this, particularly the small bunches, it may be well to explain the different modes that are practised, and state the va- rious results obtained by them. Although it is best to allow the grape-vine, like all other fruits, to judiciously and periodically extend the superfi- cial surface of the leaves and branches, our arrangements and conveniences do not always admit of this desirable consummation being tarried out. Such being the case, it behooves us, under the circumstances, not to distort nature •any more than we can avoid. In accordance with these views, first, is mentioned the plan we generally adopt. Supposing that we have got a cane of the first summer's growth, cut it back, in length according to thickness, if very strong — say six feet, or only middling so. to five (116) PRUNING AND TRAINING. 11? or even four feet ; next commence at the top leave three eyes, the upper one for the future leader, and the twc others for the top pair of branches ; cut out the next two, leave the two beneath, and continue on so to within eighteen inches of the soil, below which remove all to tbe bottom, as there is no use in having any fruit lower down. During the next summer these eyes will, if well attended to, form side spurs, which in their turn will have to be cut back to two, three, or even four buds, as they may be plump, or well developed. Now, when these buds begin to grow, we ought to have a shoot from each of them, and as only one bunch ought to be allowed to remain on each base, the other shoots will appear so far superfluous. Re- tain the one at the base, or nearest to the main cane, and likewise that one above it which shows the best bunch ; rub off the others, and pinch out the fruit from the lower, and also all, excepting the best formed bunch on the upper one. As they progress in growth, take out the top of that which has fruit on, three or four leaves above the bunch, and let the other extend until it has unfolded seven oi eight leaves ; then stop it. Bring the bearing brancher down, nearly horizontal, to the upright cane, and tie them to the side-wires ; train the others at an oblique angle, and tie them likewise. They will now appear as seen in Fig 16. a is the base shoot, and b the fruiting one. As both -continue to push forth fresh growth from Fig. 16 time to time through the summer, nip out to one leaf above where last stopped* After the fruit is cut, and the wood be- comes ripe, say two or three weeks before the leaves fall, go over and cut (b) clean away to the base of (a), which leaves the spurs for fruiting the next year as near to the main cane as if the close cut method 118 THE GKAPE. had been adopted, with the advantage of having spurs which have not "been burdened with fruit, and also the probability of future finer bunches, for the most prominent and well-formed buds always bring the best shaped and largest clusters, and this action gives a better chance of obtaining such. There is no fear of not being able to get shoots from the base, if properly managed ; for, in most cases, adventitious buds, and generally more than will be wanted, are developed, and have to be rubbed off. When these side spurs have accumulated, and extend along the whole length to the top of the house, the leader may be cut off above the top pair, and if proper care has been taken in breaking the buds, as previously advised, there will be a uniform strength over the whole vine. If the canes have been previously disbudded, there is no danger of over-crowding, as the following year the bearing branch is brought down to the same position as that of last season, and the other one trained more upright into the vacant space. All trees have a natural tendency to push the strongest growth to the top and extreme ends, particularly while young and vigorous ; and if the side branches are very closely cut away periodically, the sap is directed more strongly upwards, the lateral force is reduced in a cor- responding ratio, and the side branches are rendered weaker. This is often seen in the grape-vine, and is as often a cause of complaint. Now, the above method very much counteracts this evil, as a greater quantity of leaves are encouraged from each individual base, and, of course, a greater draw of fluid is produced into the side I ranches, which, when once established, remains permanent ; *nd, so long as the same causes are in existence, the flow is equalized, the side spurs correspondingly stronger, the buds become plumper, and the bunches larger. To still PRUNING AND TRAINING. 119 further encourage this lateral action, it is not advisable te take out the overplus buds in the fall, at the same time that the cane is disbudded, for the simple reason that the plants are collecting food, and filling up the seemingly latent parts through the winter, excepting when the whole structure is frozen, and the channels of absorption thereby stopped ; consequently, all the buds receive a due share. Although a portion of this stored up nutriment is wasted, by allowing the useless buds to expand, we gain the ad vantage of encouraging a greater flow into the side branches until the time when the unfolding leaves are enabled to keep up the action. Another method of spur-pruning, and the one most gen- erally practised, is to allow the cane to extend itself up wards each season, as above described, until it reaches the top, and retain the side spurs closer and alternately arranged along the cane ; each year resting, or not allow- ing to bear, every alternate spur, and when pruning, the cutting of all the spurs close down to one eye ; or leaving those for fruiting the following season somewhat longer, and in the next fall cutting the same spur close into the cane; the object being to keep the side branches "at home." Fig. 17 shows the cane when pruned. Very good crops are often produced in this way, with Fig. 17. otherwise good treatment ; but in the first instance the bunches are generally small, and although in *he latter this is for a few years obviated, still there is the disadvantage of having to cut hack to the main stem, and of trusting entirely to the buds which may thus be prompted to push forth. This cljse cutting weakens down the lateral force of the plant's energy, in a short time the spurs become weak, and the whole cane has eventually to be cut down ; by which, to say the least of it, one year's crop is lost. W« 120 THE GRAPE. are aware, that in thus speaking of this walking-stick mode of pruning, we are going in the face of many good grape-growers ; but the fact of a thing being generally " fashionable," is no criterion of its excellence* Nature's action in all these matters ought to be our guide, and the mvce we adapt ourselves to her laws, the more permanent will be our success. Sometimes the long-rod method is practised. In this case, the first summer the cane is trained up as in the former modes, only left somewhat longer when pruned, and this suffered to bear a full crop the next season; after which it is cut clean out to one eye from the bottom ; an- other cane having been taken up during the same time from its base, to afterwards take the place of the one last fruited, and so on. By this plan, which is seen in Fig. 18, Fig. la fine fruit may be obtained, as the bunches ema- nate from strong buds, which, if they have been previously well ripened, throw off hand- some and large clusters ; but there is the evil of having to cut off, at one fell swoop, the half of the plant, leaving no perennial structural base, excepting the very lowest stump. This whole- sale and oft-repeated cutting keeps the plant in a continual state of excitement, which is sure to eventually show itself in premature weak- ness. It is sometimes useful to resort to this plan, where the upright training surface is contracted, as in narrow or short raftered pits ; but here it may be modified by ex tending and training the leading shoots horizontally a little further each season, and taking upright canes from thes8 main branches, at the distance of two feet apart ; in vhich case, each alternate upright may be cut out to an 3ye, after bearing, and another shoot be taken up the next season, to INSECTS. 157 tortoise -shell scale, black and green fly, (aphis,) thrips, fretters (cycadce,) three or four kinds of beetles, as the rose bug, cockchafer, &c, and occasionally the caterpil- lars of some moths. The red spider is a very small, dark red insect, almobt invisible to the naked eye, which locates on the under 6ide of the leaves ; it delights in a dry, hot atmosphere, and if left long unmolested, will spread over the whole house, spinning a delicate network, among which it travels with the greatest facility, feeding upon, poisoning, and disfiguring the plant. It may be destroyed by syring- ing and a damp air, and can be completely eradicated by the use of sulphur, used as advised for mildew. Indeed it is doubtful if it will exist at all if sulphur be exposed occasionally to a high temperature, without being ignited. The writer applies it at times in his plant houses, and is never troubled with either red spider or mildew ; even among roses when forcing in the winter, and the only trouble is, to sprinkle a small quantity over the hot water pipes, or coolest end of the flues, three or four times during the season. If proper use be made of the syringe, the Bulphur will not always be required, but when applied it answers the double purpose of preventing the spread of both red spider and mildew. The different species of scaly and mealy bugs may be destroyed by the preparation recommended for the vines as the wash to be used in the fall, page 65. The scales generally adhere to the bark, and the brown ones are often so near the color of it as to require a close look to see them ; here they stick, sucking the juices, and ejecting their sugary excrescence, which spreads over the leaves, and stops up the breathing pores. The mealy bug is to be found in the crevices between the bark, in the joints, and , among the bunches, in the form of little cottony-looking 158 THE GRAPE. substances, in which case it should be taken out with a small brush or pointed stick, for if left in its lurking places, the bunches among which it is located will be disfigured and too dirty for use. The tortoise-shell scale is more solitary in habits, and in appearance like a small tor- toise-shell ; it is to be found in the same places as the brown scale, lives upon the juices of the vine, and can hi destroyed by the same means. Aphidae, or green and black fly, are small insects, sluggish in movement, having prominent antennae, a large abdomen, and a long probos- cis, with which they pierce the cuticle of the tender shoots, and draw out the sap, which quickly brings decrepitude into the advancing extremities. They are viviparous and gregarious, and increase amazingly fast. Thrips are small, active, linear-shaped little insects, which congregate on and run over the under surface of the leaves, disfiguring them, and eating the epidermis or outer covering; and the fretters (a species of cycaclce) move by short flights, or rather jumps when disturbed ; they are somewhat linear and triangular in form, small, and of a palish yellow color, and like the last they feed on the outer covering of the leaves. All the last three varieties can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco, but care should be used in the operation, so as not to apply too much while the leaves are young and tender, for in that state they are soon injured. The rose bug is a lightish brown little beetle, with a small head, and long proboscis. In some parts of the country it is very destructive to hardy grape-vines, before and about the time of blossoming. It congregates through the day-time often in great numbers, and eats the tender flower stems, thus destroying all future prospects fof the season. The most effectual way of keeping this trou- blesome customer in check, is by hand-picking, at inter [NSECTS. 15i> eals through the day, more particularly early in the morn ing, for although it may be caught at any time when at rest upon a plant, it is more sluggish before the heat of the day commences. Being only the visitor of a period, annu- ally, a careful watching for three or four weeks is requi- site at this time, after which it disappears, and is no more trouble. The cockchafer beetles are larger, more oval in form than the foregoing, and of several colors; they attack the leaves and young shoots through the season, but are not so destructive. The same process (hand-picking) will have to be resorted to for their destruction. There are also several kinds of the larvae of humming bird moths that occasionally feed upon the young stems, and edges of the leaves, and which, boing so near the color of the parts they feed upon, and cylindrical in form, are somewhat dif- ficult to find ; consequently when it is seen that injury is being done, a sharp look-out ought to be practised, and a quick eye will soon get accustomed to the detection of these, and any other kind of caterpillars that occasionally may be annoying And here we may state that the bent advice which can be given in this matter in a general way is, to remember the old saying, that a "stitch in time saves nine ;" and if we do not wish to cultivate our de- structive propensities, by having to destroy an immensity in number of God's links in creation, we ought to have a benevolent feeling, and recollect that the earliest and first onslaught upon the precocious subject will render un- necessary the putting to death of countless myriads after- ward, each of which, In the true sense of reason, has as good a right to live as ourselves. With regard to the grapery under glass, if the insect world is " legion," and the generations quick in succession, they are easily kept down, and nothing but gross negli- gence or ignorance will permit them to get ahead. U*f 160 THE GRJ X. water freely during the earlier periods of growth, drive h into all crevices of the house, and judiciously over the vines, and you may generally defy all the host of them. If after the fruit begins to ripen they should make an attack, the sulphur and tobacco may be applied as recom- mended, when their comparatively small numbers will be jpeedil y put to the ront. CHAPTER XV. THE VINEYARD, AND OUT-DOOR, CULTURE. So far the grape-vine has been treated of in a general way, as regards the natural disposition of the various kinds in cultivation. The practical details also are more particularly explained for the treatment of the exotics, but to make a clean breast of our present busi- ness, there is required some more notice of the natives, and out-door culture. If we could be satisfied with a stand-Still position, the thing might remain as it is, for almost everybody who has a yard of land thinks of a grape-vine : and yet a greater number know how to grow grapes, if we are to believe the many metaphysical conversations that often take place The fact is, that all the species and varieties will more or less prosper with almost any kind of treatment, providing they be in a suitable climate ; but this does not argue against the best cultivation, and there is little fear of contradiction when t he statement is made that skill and care will be as amply repaid with any or all of the kinds. It matters not whether for wine or table use, this still holds good, and the only difference is in what is required. If, for instance, the produce be intended for wine, it will be necessary to combine, as much as possible, those pecu- liar characteristics which the best samples are found to possess, and in such case it is not advisable to intro- duce too much stimulating matter to the roots, but let nature have her way, with help directed towards her own (101) 162 THE GRAPE. course, and still furthei to make use of those varieties that contain within their original structure more than usual of those ingredients which are suitable for the purpose. Now generally, with due maturity, there is enough of the car bonaceous property, that can, by the plant's own action be converted into sugar, and of course by proper fermenta tion a sufficient proportion of the alcoholic principle may be obtained ; but this does not give the particular nor yet the varied aroma for which some wines are so prized. Toe much encouragament to the production of exterior develop- ment delays the formation of concentrated sugary matter, and those constituent properties which are derived from hydrogen and other gases, that form in the exact propor- tion those very desirable accompaniments which connois- seurs delight in. Consequently it is easily seen that moderate growth, with efficient drainage; must be the best, and that as these peculiar properties are invariably more highly concentrated under the influence of light and free air, ample space is essential to vineyard culture. Although our country is said to be " the land of the vine," it by no means follows that we may plant with impunity in any situation, or under any circumstances, and notwithstanding it is found that some varieties grow even in swamp land, and produce fine fruit withal, when left to ramble among the branches and overtop the loftiest neighboring trees, if we try the same in culture for wine purposes, it would in the greatest number of cases be nothing but a miserable failure ; firstly, on account of deficiency in the quality of fruit ; and secondly, there would be no certainty of it becoming ripe, from the liability to the rot. On the other hand, the locality may be in all respects suitable, but yet bo oxposed to violent storms, that the foliage may be in- jured and torn to the detriment of both fruit and plant, and therefore such should not he made choice o£ Again, VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 163 some caution should be exercised with regard to those aspects which lie open to the winds that bring with them the damp and fogs of summer ; consequently, it is objec- tionable to choose a slope toward the sea. Each tract of country has its own peculiarities, and an acquaintance with the neighborhood will enable any observant mind to de- cide in this particular There is no advantage in following So the letter the advice of those who, too often, persist in believing a south-east slope to be imperatively necessary- men who may have prospered well enough in their own country and climate, are sometimes wedded to a certain faith, and have not always sufficient tractability of mind to alter their practice or adapt it to a difference of circum- stances. If we consider that along the eastern shores the damp air which is brought from the ocean almost invariably brings on a tendency to mildew and rot, it is evident that in such a region it would be much better to adopt a spot which is sheltered by higher ground on the eastern side. At the same time, a low or moist situation should by all means be avoided, or one where the air is liable to be stagnant at times. The next most important item is a dry under base ; a rough rubbly gravel subsoil, with a con- tinued descent below, will generally prove naturally well- drained, but in all examples to the contrary it ought to be made so by artificial means. Nothing conduces more to prosperity than a soil strongly impregnated with carbonate of lime, or having limestone rock beneath. If any body is sceptical in this, they may be easily convinced by referring to analysis, or more simply by examining the incrustation left on the edges of the leaves after the evaporation of that excessive perspira- tion, which sometimes takes place in hot and cloudy weather, while the growth of the plant is young. There is perhaps no plant which exhibits more clearly than does 164 THE GRAPE. the grape-vine, the oft-disputed fact that these inorganic substances are really absorbed. Here is a plain proof that they are, for according to the greater or less amount of lime in the soil, so will this appearance be manifest. It is most likely, that if all plants were so situated as to be enabled to take up the exact proportions of the various elementary food required by them, most of the diseases to which they are subject would disappear; and certain enough it is, that all would be prevented, if we could con- trol the elements to suit the different stages of growth, and adapt the light and heat to all respective constitutions. In making choice of a piece of land for a vineyard, it is not always convenient to gain possession of the precise spot which our intelligence would covet ; but if it could be done, and there are many opportunities where it may be, we should accept an elevated table-land, lying high and dry upon a limestone base, and screened from the damp easterly and cold north and north-west winds by a distant range of hills, which would protect without pro- ducing a confined atmosphere, and give shelter against the most frigid blasts of a below zero temperature. We may also take a more philosophical view of the method of planting than is generally practised, and in- stead of fixing the plants in the position of so many hills of corn, and about the same distance apart, when each stool requires a stake, and the bearing cane has to be curved over, thereby being only half supported, we would consider the aspect that might have to be dealt with, the inclination towards the sun's rays, and all such matters, as would give opportunity for the most prevalent drying winds to blow through each row of vines, and in addition to expose the upper side of the leaves as much as possible to the action of the mid-day sun, in order the better to concentrate true growth, and prepare the plants to resist VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 165 the violent and sudden changes of weather for which our climate is so proverbial. The following explanation will perhaps show more clearly what is here meant. After making choice of a suitable soil and situation, and making sure that the subsoil is well drained, commence to trench with the spade, or plough deeply the whole piece. If the spade be used and the soil shallow, this operation may be performed as follows : Take out a trench at one side, three feet wide and one spit deep; wheel or cart this to the other end, then loosen up the under soil another spit, break it up well and leave it in the bottom ; throw the next upper crust on the top of this, and so on until all is finished. Where a large extent is to be cultivated, it would become too expensive to trench, and the plough will have to do the work ; in which case, the subsoil plough ought to follow the top loosening. Where the soil is equally good the two spit deep, the bottom may be turned to the top to advantage. Very little manure will be needed if the earth be in good heart, and well incorporated with vegetable matter, but otherwise it is advisable to work in at the same time, from ten to fifteen tons of decomposed barn- yard dung to the acre ; and if there be a deficiency of the alkaline bases, a dressing of lime and wood ashes will prove very beneficial. Although the roots of the grape vine, when established delight in an open turfy soil, a cross ploughing and harrowing will be required to pul- verize, sufficiently, the soil before planting, and give the young fibres a better chance to lay hold of it at first start The work, also, ought to be done during the summer 01 previous early fall, so as to get into good condition by th time it may be wanted. There are many cultivators who think it absolutely necessary to choose a side-hill situation for the vineyard, •rod it must be admitted that such is often the best, bat 166 THE GRAPE. there is no reason why it should he invariably accepted to the entire exclusion of any other. However, where the disposition leads that way, and all the above-mentioned considerations are not to be acquired, it will answer the purpose, and if the slope be anything like steep, the whole extent will have to be formed into terraces. This becomes more or less expensive according to the angle of ascent. It should also be remembered, that on a hill-side, the cold air, more particularly in the night, is constantly moving along the surface, from the top towards the bottom, there- by preventing that health-producing evaporation of warmth from the soil which is obtained from the solar heat of the previous day, and causing, in our extreme climate, a con- densation of the moisture as it radiates upwards, which i? then carried along towards the lowest level in the form of a damp and cold draft among the under parts of the plants ; and it does not require a second thought to under- stand how injurious such a circumstance is in all other kinds of culture. No doubt many will think that such notions as these are not worthy of consideration, but as we are being troubled with rot, mildew, and other hurtful affections, it is well to guard against all things that are likely to provoke, or produce the evil, and avoid them accordingly. Arguing from the culture of the grape- vine, or any other plant under glass, we know that such action would bring on these very diseases; and it is not to inside cultivation alone that we are at all times dependent for proof, for there now and then happens an example where a plant is trained on two aspects, or the head is in •different positions, when one part is quite free from disease, while the other is badly affected ; and it is just possible that these cold currents of damp air is one of the causes of mischief To prepare a side-hill for a vineyard, it will be requisite VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 167 to form terraces from the bottom upwards in width according to the steepness of ascent. If very abrupt, only one row of vines can be accommodated on each, but with a more gentle inclination the breadth may be sufficient for two or even three rows. The front will also require to be banked up to render the upper surface level, an J there is nothing more suitable for the purpose than thick turfs of grass-sod, fixed on the edges, inclining from the perpendicular towards the bank. Generally speaking, thsse sods may be cut from the immediate surface, when a portion of each length to be laid out will furnish enough material for its own front, and as there is a right and a wrong in this operation, like most other things, it may be of service to show the right. When a bank of this charac ter is made of square sods, as seen in Fig. 30, they are subject to give way during the rains of the first summer, from the fact of there being no mechanical holdfast. Fig. 31 Fig. 30. Fig. n. WW Vs\Y\ ITITITI / ' ' I ' ' 1 1 shows how this may be obviated, and the trouble or ex- pense of workmanship is the same in both cases. The way to get these latter is, to simply cut down a few inches with the spade in a slanting direction, by a straight line at equal distances, as much as may be wanted, and after- ward cut to the same width, with the line placed diagon- ally to the first cutting, which will give each individual god of the right size and form to push together, by merely reversing the bevelled edge at each rise on the height. The trenching, plowing, manuring, &c, will be the same in this as the before-noticed plan. The next thing to b# 168 THE GRAPE. done, is the preparing of supports upon which to train th« vines. The most common method of planting is, in straight rows from five to six feet apart, and at right angles with each other, and to simply have a pole to each vine ; the method of training being the long rod, explained page 12C. This answers the purpose very well and has be- come the most customary, in part from the introduced rDutine of Europe, and in some measure as a consideration of economy. As to the latter, there may be some saving to the pocket, but unless there are more than counter- balancing advantages, there is no use in following old customs, so long as better ones can be introduced, and in the present case, an improvement may be accomplished by cheap trellises, which may be made in the following manner : Prepare a quantity of good strong poles of locust, chestnut, oak, or ash, seven feet six inches; point and char these three feet on the lower end and drive them into the ground two feet six inches, in rows six feet apart, extending east and west, or as near these points as may be practicable, and the poles nine feet assunder ; next fix horizontally long narrow strips of wood, or straight but thin saplings, to the uprights, at a distance of one foot ; this will make a substantial trellis on which to train the vines, and be far superior, with very little more expense than the pole-to-one-vine that is so often made use of. It is high time for us to adopt a principle of neatness com- bined with utility, and endeavor to supersede all such primitive machinery. If we are to imitate, let it not be a retrograde movement, but onward progress ; and a stil further improvement might be introduced in the trellis re- commended, by using galvanized iron wire for the hori- zontal supports. Th*re is some prejudice existing against the use of wire as it has been thought that it does injury VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 169 to the vines by the rusting and their friction against so hard a material, but practically we do not find it so. Let the superintendent only attend to his duty without nurs- ing his old prejudices, and see to the proper tying, and our word for it, there will be no more detriment in wire than anything else. However, let everybody go along a£ he thinks best, only move onward, and as we are a great, and daily becoming a greater nation, let us not disappoint the expectations of the world by our want of originality. All may now be considered as ready for planting, and here again we have many notions to contend with. Cut- tings—one-year old, two-year old, and even three-year old plants, have each been considered as the best, accord ing to the whims and fancies of pedantry. The fact is, wo want a healthy start, at the least expense ; and as the plants must have a length of time to become profitable, what can be more economical, or insure future success better, than good one year vines ? The more than half part of this business depends on previous preparation ; but, as this costs money, it is well, at the same time, to be getting ready the future occupants ; consequently it is good advice to say : raise the plants on one spot, and be preparing on the main superficial area ; or, if it be not convenient to propagate, adapt all contingencies so as to make sure of after results. A young and well-rooted plant will, if properly managed and attended, produce a greater growth than a stunted older one, with the additional advantage of being alike in all its parts; what is true individually, will be so collect ively, over the whole vineyard, and a greater uniformity will be obtained. In transplanting, take care that the roots are lifted carefully, and removed to their new quar- ters, before they become dried ; nothing produces more evil to any plant than this often careless practice. Roots 8 170 THE GRAPE. aie organized beings, containing fluid matter, and intended to convey most of the nutriment upward to the whole superstructure ; and if their tender cells become shrivelled, they are nit capable of again performing their offices with the samf degree of energy, but remain comparatively inactive for a length of time, or die immediately. If the fop languishes, a weak start is the consequence, with per- haps the loss of a whole season. If the trellis be accepted, the rows may be six feet apart, and the plants four feet asunder ; but, in the ordi- nary way of staking, five feet each way will be the nearest possible distance. In putting down the roots, dig a hole six inches deep, and wide enough for them to be spread out all around ; cover carefully with well pulverized soil ; cut off the head to two or three good eyes ; and, when the vines begin to start, mulch over, so far as the roots extend, with rotted barn-yard manure ; or, if that cannot be had, then with any vegetable refuse, that is free from seeds, that may be at hand. When the shoots begin to elongate somewhat, it will be seen which is going to be the strongest, and all the others may be rubbed off. As this continues to grow, tie it up t j the stake or trellis, pinch out the laterals (the small side- shoots which grow at the base of each leaf) to one eye, as they are produced, and rub off all superfluous suckers or branches. Nothing further will be required than to keep the ground free from weeds, by hoeing, or the plough, through the summer. The long-rod method of training ig one of the best for the vineyard, but a periodical extension is still better, as it is more in accordance with the consti- f utional powers of the grape-vine, more particularly the strong, growing natives, and alike applicable to all the varieties. Here is one of the greatest advantages of the trellis versus the pole method, as with the latter no greatei VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 171 bulk of plant than is acquired after the third year is practicable A reference to the chapter on pruning will explain all respecting this part; so there is no use in pur- suing the subject further, excepting to state that cleanli- ness is one of the first demands of the vineyard, and is sure to more than repay for the invested labor. The training over arbors, around dwellings, and all su :h positions, will require the same fundamental culture that has been explained for the vineyard, the only differ- ence being in the peculiar desires or fancy of the culti- vator with regard to the form of the plant. As the grape- vine is so lavish with its embracing arms, they may be entwined around or over anything that will give them support ; the whole plant will continue to delight the eye with its beauty, and gratify the palate with its luscious sweets, if kindly treated. Even with worse than careless- ness, we may enjoy a portion of its liberality ; but, accord- ing as kindness is bestowed, so may we expect to meet with an abundant gratitude; for, like the better part of humanity, it can appreciate, and will fully return former benevolence. CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS J A TSV AR Y. OUT-DOOR CULTURE. In our LOrthern, ice-bound regions very little can be done in this month, further than preparing for the future. We may, however, take notice of all that will be re« quired* such as the conveying of manure to the plants, painting and cleaning trellises, collecting and preparing stake!' 1 , and other matters of like character, which would interfere with time when we can ill spare it. In the South, the instructions for February and March will be suitable at this time. And here we may state, that a similar difference will apply, until about ripening-time, for the rame latitudes. COLD GRAPERY. Keep the house cool and open with bright sunshine, but close at night, and likewise in the day-time when the weather is severe and cloudy. Examine occasionally for rats and mice, as they sometimes do much mischief by gnawing the vines. It is well to rub a little arsenic be tween slices of bread, cheese, or beef, and lay them close to the base of the plants underneath the covering. FORCING HOUSE. Here the grape-grower has, fo^ some time to p<;rae, to [113] 174 THE GRAPE. exert his best skill. See to the covering of the borders j be sure these are right. — (See page 81.) In the first early house the vines will be considerably ach anced in gi "uvth — perhaps, near blooming — and the temperature, in such case, may range from 60° at night, to 85° ui *he day, with sunshine, or 75° without it. When the blossoms begin to expand, cease watering overhead until the berries are set, but damp the surface of the floor, and over the heating apparatus, while the house is still warm in the afternoon. The second early house will be about starting, for which see page 84. These direc- tions will apply to this house now. See, also, page 87. RETARDING HOUSE. This part of grape-culture has not yet become as gen eral as it ought to be. The object is to keep back or retard the ripening of the fruit (fully explained on page 98), so as to have it fit for use during the winter months. To the commercial grower we here more particularly speak, as, during the winter months, a higher price is paid for grapes than at any other season of the year. At present the demand far exceeds the supply. Instead of fine black Hamburgs, or others of like quality, there is nothing for sale but the White Lisbon and Black Por- tugal — two inferior kinds, which are rendered still worse by long keeping, and the sea-voyage from Portugal and other parts of southern Europe. As the grapes ought now to be hanging ripe in this house, constant slow fires are necessary to keep out the frost. Do not let the tem- perature rise higher than from 40° to 45° at night, and 55° in the day. No water is required, an I every precaution should be used to maintain a dry atmos. phere, and the bunches free from decaying berries, For pruning, see page 101. CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 175 F E ItKUARY, OUT-DOOR CULTURE. Not much can yet be done in this department, except as explained last month. If pruning was not done in the fall, take the earliest opportunity for the operation during the first mild weather. Never cut a branch from any plant when frozen ; rather wait beyond the usual time, but do not delay in this case longer than is neces- sary. Tie the vines to the stakes or trellises ; level manure when necessary, so that the melting snow and rains may wash it down amongst the roots previous to digging or forking the ground after winter is over. COLD GRAPERY. The directions for last month will apply also to this ; consequently, there is no need for repetition. FORCING HOUSE. As the weather is very changeable, generally, in this month, the utmost care is required ; for, be it remem bered, that all the growth we have got, so far, is artifi- cial, and soon injured. Watch particularly the changes from a north-east and wet storm, to the sudden, bright, severe, and drying atmosphere of the north-west. In such case, mind to keep the floor of the house damped over several times during the first day, and afterwards until the tender leaves can withstand the sun's fervid influence. Syringe overhead every evening in clear weather, but withhold water during wet storms, and while the blossoms are expanded, except on the floor of the house. In the earliest house let the temperature range from 60° at night to 85° or 90° with sunshine For second early, see Jeurnal, page 87. J 76 THE GRAPE. RETARDING HOUSE. Attend to .ast month's directions. MARCH. OUT-DOOR CULTURE. In all localities, excepting the extreme north, the iol will now be in a fit state for working, and no time should be lost in getting ready for planting. If the land for vin- yard culture has an open, sandy, or gravelly subsoil, where the water passes freely away, there will be no further preparation required than deep trenching, or sur- face ploughing, followed with a subsoil plough that will, at least, penetrate twenty inches deep, — if deeper, so much the better ; indeed, it ought to go down to the natural drainage. If the subsoil is heavy and stiff, the situation is inferior for the purpose, and artificial drains will more than repay the cost of making. Many persons think the older a vine is before planting, the sooner they will have a full crop of fruit. I have fre- quently talked with those who needed to be convinced that a three or four year old vine would not set and ripen plenty of bunches the same season it is planted. For the vineyard, either cuttings or one year old plants are best. The latter, all things considered, have the preference. It is far better to have an abundance of healthy roots, with a small well-ripened stem, than the reverse. The plants may be arranged at the distance of five feet each way. (See page 168.) When cuttings are used, or if the plants have been raised from cuttings, there will be roots emit> ted along the buried part of the stem, and the planting should be, in either case, deep, for the sake of retaining the whole of them, and also enabling the vine to have a reservoir to feed from in dry weather. CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 177 It is expected that pruning has been completed before this time; if not so, do it without delay. When this operation is deferred until late, the vines will " bleed" freely, and, although this does not materially injure them, it nevertheless prevents a vigorous burst of the foliage and young shoots, retards the ripening, and injures the quality of the fruit tor the season. If the vines have not been neatly tied to the trellises, or stakes, do it at once. When the branches are left to be dashed about by the equinoctial gales, or even handled when the buds are swelling, they are easily injured. Remove all the loose bark, and examine if there be any chrysalides or eggs of insects in the crevices, — if so, destroy them ; and when there is only a limited quantity of vines, and time can be spared, it makes sure work if both branches and trellis should be washed over with the mixture mentioned on page 05. Near a dwelling-house or other building this ought to be done every season, for in such places the insects are often more numerous, and have better chances of protection through the winter. Have an eye to neatness and finish, and as soon as the weather will permit, fork over the surface, working in the ma- nure or other dressing, applied in the Fall as a mulch, at the same time. The accompanying figure (Fig. 32) shows another very good method for training the hardy kinds, and is best adapted for vineyards; (a) the bearing blanches ; (b) shoots of the present year, and intended for fruiting the next sea- §on; (c) stakes. Fio. 82. 178 THE GEAPE. COLD GRAPERY. The vines may remain covered until the latter part of the present, or, in late situations, the beginning of next month. The house should be kept cool by having the ventilators and doors open at all times except during, severe frost. After the covering is removed, clean the house and make all neat. Fork the inside beds, and gi re a thorough syringing over the whole house, select- ing a mild time for the operation. Do not, however, repeat this operation daily until the danger from sharp frosts is past. For planting, see page 59. FORCING HOUSE. This is the most trying month in the year, (even mora so than the preceding one,) where grapes are being forc- ed early, as, generally speaking, the roots are in a cold bed, and notwithstanding there may be a sufficient covering on the surface, still the soil lacks the genial heat which a summer's sun imparts, while, at the same time, the branches are exposed to a temperature and atmos- phere suitable to their healthy action, and the advancing fruit is drawing considerably on the energy of the plants. This difference of condition and artificial position, tends to the development of the plant, it is true, but the ex- panded leaves have not the requisite supply of organic matter flowing through them, which causes them to remain more than usually thin and watery, and the fruit is liable to suffer accordingly, unless the greatest cau- tion be exercised. The weather too, at this time, is fickle, one day being mild, cloudy and moist, while the next may be dry, cold and windy, with severe frost. These sudden differences require the greatest care and watch- fulness, else after a day of severe weather, the leaves will suddenly wilt and be destroyed, whon the sun's powerful CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 179 rays strike them. During these cold days, do not open any but the top ventilators, and these no more than is necessary to keep the thermometer from rising too high. Damp the floor, sides and ends of the house, so as to secure a humid atmosphere, which will assist the circu- lation of the sap, the leaves absorbing the moisture through the stomata, or breathing pores, on the under side. Be careful to keep a steady range of temperature from 60° at midnight, and 75° in cloudy, with a rise or 85° to 90° on sunny days. Break off all superfluous growing shoots, thin the berries early, and reduce the crop down to what is finally intended, so that the vines may be eased as much as possible. The directions for January, in the Forcing House, will now apply to tha Second Early. RETARDING HOUSE. Keep the atmosphere dry and cool, but if there be any gjapes still hanging on the vines, do not let the frost in. At this time the vines should be resting, consequently C!.re ought to be used in preventing the house from be- coming heated. If the pruning is not finished, do it im- mediately, clean the vines, as previously advised for other ciops, and lower the canes down from the roof, that the si n may not have so much influence upon them. It is n.ach better to get a tardy development than to have a Uw temperature during growth. APRIL. Comparatively speaking, the grape grower will now bv gin to have busy work. The various successions of the ei otics are more or less in activity, from the swelling bud to full-sized grapes, and the natives are beginning to de» rr 'op, which renders it neceisary that we should be on the alert. ISO THE GRAPE. OUT-DOOR CULTURE. In this department, when the buds are burst so far as to show which are likely to be the most suitable shoots for training in the right places, or to be left for fruiting, go over the whole and rub off all that are not wanted, or which, if left, would produce superfluous growth. This operation requires some study as the work proceeds. A reference to the illustrations in former pages will explain what is here meant, and the reader will readily perceive which buds ought to be taken out and which left to grow. I wish most particularly to impress the importance of this dis-budding upon all who desire either profit, or grapes of the best quality. It will save much after-labor in the way of summer pruning, and be of advantage to the vines and fruit by more fully exposing the leaves to air and light. The branches are less crowded, and the carbonic acid more thoroughly decomposed, thus form- ing a larger amount of saccharine matter in the fruit, and better ripened and firmer wood for the next year. COLD GRAPERY. The vines in this house may now be uncovered even in the coldest localities. Examine them to see if any injury has been done by the extreme cold of the past winter, which will show itself in the form of longitu- dinal slits, or openings along the canes, especially near the upper extremities. These will, in a short time, become dark-colored on the edges, and begin to " bleed," and without great caution the whole, or a large portion of the cane, will die off. The best thing in such cases is to tie the stem to the roof-wires at once, and keep a lower temperature for a week or two. If, notwithstanding this, the buds do not burst, and the sap still continues to ooze out, do not cut down immediately, but wait until a healthy CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 181 and vigorous shoot near the lower end has grown some eighteen inches, when the whole upper head may be cut away, and the young branch trained up in its stead This mischief is the result of imperfectly ripened wood, and insufficient covering during the winter, a fact vi which some persons have been rather expensively con vinced during the last few severe seasons, and which has furnished prejudice, neglect, and bad management, a sub- terfuge to condemn the practice of growing the European grapes under glass, without artificial heat. When no injury has occurred, the vines may be loosely tied to the wires, with the top left suspended in an arched position, until all the buds are well and evenly grown some two or three inches, after which the canes should be fastened in their permanent form for the summer. Do not let any drafts of air into the house, but lower the temperature as may be desired by opening the top ven- tilators. Keep the house cool during the first three weeks on account of the liability to frosty nights. Let the thermometer, up to the end of this time, rise no higher than 65°, if possible. At the end of the month it may be allowed to rise to 70°, or 75° and 80°, and now commence using water freely with the syringe or hose- pipe, evenings and mornings, distributing it over every part of the vines, and into all crevices of the woodwork, for the double purpose of moistening the atmosphere, and dislodging any insects that have taken refuge there FORCING HOUSE. The earliest crop will now be ripening fast, and thin uing will be finished. The heat may be increased to 65° or 70° at night, and 85° to 90° at mid-day. Water over- head ought now to be discontinued, but damp the floor of an evening. Continue to nip out the upper adyancing 182 THE GRAPE growth of the lateral shoots to one leaf above where last stopped, and remove all the lower side shoots on eacn fruit spur, excepting the two uppermost, which are left for the purpose of drawing the sap, and preventing the base buds from bursting. The kind of mildew which is sometimes so troublesome during July and August, to late crops, seldom shows itself in an early house of grapes. But there is another sort, which appears as a delicate white mold on the sur- face of the berries, and on the upper side of the leaves, and this is more prevalent in the forcing house than the cold grapery. It is most to be apprehended after a dry and heated atmosphere has been maintained for some- time, as for instance, immediately after " blooming time." This disease may be thoroughly destroyed by syringing the vines with water, in which has been mixed some flour sulphur, say one pound to twenty gallons. While using, keep the sulphur well stirred, for it is upon the contact of this and the fumes given off by slow combustion, that the remedy depends. The same directions that were given last month for the earliest house, will now be applicable to the second early, and need not be repeated. THE RETARDING HOUSE. Let all the doors and ventilators be open until the buds begin to swell, and even during the whole month when there is no danger of frost ; when so, the house may be closed at night, and opened again early in the morning. A less amount of moisture is required for this than for other crops, as the object is to prevent the vines from getting into brisk action, and the natural atmosphere is sufficiently damp for the present. In making preparation for a house of this kind, it is best to have the bed or bor- CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 183 der for the roots to grow in. nearly or quite raised above the ground level, which, from its drier capacity, will as- sist the vines more fully to centralize their juices, and somewhat prevent the accumulation of too much crudo fluid and unripened growth in the fall. SI AT. Now that the severity of the season is over, we may look among the vines, and examine the effects of the ex- treme cold of the past whiter. There will be instances, in very cold latitudes, where the vines have excusably suffered; but, in the majority of cases, the mischief has occurred through an over-damp or imperfectly drained sub-soil. Those under glass may be injured from the 6ame cause, and from over-rich, deep borders, which tend to keep the canes in a growing state, and supplied with too much fluid, until the approach of winter, leav- ing no time before the frost sets in for the drying up or ripening off of the woody fibre. In in-door culture, some protection is afforded by the house, even though no fire- heat has been applied through the winter. True, we sometimes see examples where the exotics growing in the open air are nearly or entirely uninjured, leading us to infer that no covering is necessary. In the grapery, however, we must recollect that much richer beds are prepared for the roots, and, consequently, a large growth is produced, which requires longer time, and a driei atmosphere in the Fall, to evaporate the surplus jui jes :o enable the vine to withstand any great amount of frost. These considerations show the necessity of cover- ing the vines in houses where fire-heat is not used. I have spoken thus minutely of this, as many practical cultivators and amateirs would like a house of exotic 184 THE GRAPE. grapes, providing they can succeed with them without the expense and trouble of artificial heat. Although Greheat is of service, temporarily, there is no actual ne- cessity for it, as, with a well-fitted glass arbor, attention to covering in the winter, and not hastening the vines into growth in the spring, great results may be accom plished, as I have proved during the last ten years. OUT-DOOR CULTURE. In the vineyard, and out-door culture generally, the vines will now begin to show their fruit, and likewise the most suitable branches for next year's bearing. Con- tinue to disbud, or rub out, all that are superfluous. Those which are fastened to stakes will require, say two of the best lower shoots to be left. A sufficient number should be retained upon trellises to fill up all vacancies, or furnish branches to be laid in at the distance of eight- een inches apart, as fruiters hereafter. Nothing dete- riorates the quality of the fruit, or renders it subject te rot, more than the over-crowding of growing wood during the summer. Every leaf should be freely exposed to the action of light, which cannot be the case when these young superfluous branches are allowed to " ride over " the whole surface of the plant. COLD GRAPERY. Some care is still necessary, during the earlier part of the month, where late frosts are apprehended. In such, keep the house cool for a few days, but do not neglect a free use of the syringe over the vines every mild eve- ning. A liberal supply of water should be sprinkled over the floor of the house in the morning, to maintain a moist and genial, but not over-stimulating atmosphere, which will cause the buds to swell and burst with vigor. When CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 185 the shoots are sufficiently advanced to show the best ones for fruiting, and also for next year's wood, all, ex cepting these, may be rubbed out. It is best, however, t' leave an extra one on each spur, in case of accident, for, when fire-heat is not used, the young shoots are quite brittle, and sometimes burst out before a sufficient amount of woody fibre is formed at their base to connect them firmly w T ith the parent branch. For the same rea son they ought to be handled very carefully, and not be drawn down to the wires too soon. Towards the middle or latter part of the month, according as the locality is free from frosts, the house should be kept more closely shut, and the vines allowed to commence their growth in earnest. Let the temperature be gradually raised a degree or two each day, beginning with 70°, and in- creasing to 85° in the middle of the day. Do not open the lower ventilators, as the cold air checks the circulation of the sap, and paralyzes the action of the plants. Close the house early at night, use water freely over- head, and give the vines every chance to push into vig- orous growth. The outside borders should also be attended to. We will presume that a mulching of manure was applied in the fall, which should now be forked over, leaving the soil loose and open, to allow the air and sun to act upon the sub-soil, thus invigorating the roots. If this covering of manure was omitted, apply it at once, after lightly forking over the border. The spring raina will carry the soluble fertilizing material to the roots, a* food for the plants. THE FORCING HOUSE. The earliest crops will now be ripe, and the second early "stoning." When the last swell of the fruit com- mences, syringing overhead may be discontinued, and 186 THE GRAPE. water entirely withheld inside of the house as the coloi ing progresses. At this time, a grape-vine wih 5 be main tained in a healthy state, if kept very dry. We are, however, sometimes compelled to apply water, to pre- vent the encroachment of insects; but when this becomes a necessity, the water should never come in contact witJ the fruit, as it would cause some kinds to burst their skins, and all would be injured in appearance by the " bloom " being washed from the surface of the berries. For the latter reason, the bunches should not be touched with the ringers, or rubbed in any way, while hanging on the vines. As the side-shoots continue to push fresh growth, the tops will need to be shortened-in to one leaf above the former pinching ; but in young canes of the present season, the top may be allowed to extend, and the laterals shortened to one leaf as they continue to increase. The later successions of grapes will require the same treatment which was recorded for this, in the last two months, and need not be repeated here. RETARDING HOUSE. With the retarded crop the temperature maybe main- tained as low as possible for some time yet, and a very small quantity of water used. JUNE. OUT-DOOR CULTURE. The vines in this department will now be in active progress. As the shoots elongate, nip out the tops to three or four leaves above the fruit-bunches, but allow those intended for next year's wood to extend them- selves for the present, rubbing off all that are super- fluous. Now is the time to save much after-labor in CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 187 Hummer-pruning, and prevent injury to the fruit ; there* fore, do not leave more branches than are necessary t!£ inches, almost a quarto; 456 pages, fine plate piper, beautifully bound in cloth and boards, cover illuminated in gold; weighs 4J$ lbs. Boxed, price $3.00 net, postpaid to any part of the world. Orange 3uda Company Hew Yorit. H. Y. f 52-54 Lafayette Place. Sprinef ield, Mass., Homestead Bff Chicago, JV*r i&rqr*tte Building. ^ J SENT FREE ON APPLICATION t I * ■ %PCffintiva * r^escriptive I M^f Catalog of=.. jjj Containing ioo8vo. pages, S~*\ lv I I |\ A „ 2 J profusely illustrated, and / \ * V ^^ * X> *• *— * JJ y^ giving full descriptions of I C* ) Vi, the best works on the fol. V ^^WC\C\\/ r ^ * jjj lowing subjects: V Dv/V/IVO * ** :W: M * ;*?{ Farm and Garden *\ J jjftj Fruits, Flowers, Etc. jj jjj Cattle, Sheep and Swine * j* ^ jjjjj Do g s > Horses, Riding, Etc. J \i JML* Poultry, Pigeons and Bees JJJ jtfjj Angling and Fishing m % 'Ml ■Rr.a+^o- rv,«,«»'„« .1 o„:i:„^ 5 J ^1 ^ Boating, Canoeing and Sailing * £ ^^^^-jra: Field Sports and Natural History J jjj Hunting, Shooting, Etc. » jgj Architecture j»nd Building $ yj jjjj Landscape Gardening JJ jj Iqj Household and Miscellaneous W £ ill J! it Publishers and Importers jg | Orange Judd Company f vfc 52 and 54 Lafayette Place jjj NEW YORK * 2 jjj BOOKS WILL BE FORWARDED, POSTPAID, ON W U, RECEIPT OF PRICE 2 STANDARD BOOKS. 6reenIiousc construction. By Prof. L. R. Taft. A complete treatise on greenhouse structures and arrangements of the various forms and styles of plant houses for professional florists as well as amateurs. All the best and most approved structures are so fully and clearly described that anyone who desires to build a greenhouse will have no difficulty in deter- mining the kind best suited to his purpose. The modern and most successful methods of heating and ventilating are fully treated upon. Special chapters are devoted to houses used for the growing of one kind of plants exclusively. The construction of hotbeds and frames receives appropriate attention. Over one hundred excel- lent illustrations, specially engraved for this work, make every point clear to the reader and add considerably to the artistic appearance of the book. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Greenhouse Management. By L.. R. Taft. This book forms an almost indispensa- ble companion volume to Greenhouse Construction. In it the author gives the results of his many years' expe- rience, together with that of the most successful florists and gardeners, in the management of growing plants Under glass. So minute and practical are the various systems and methods of growing and forcing roses, vio- lets, carnations, and all the most important florists' plants, as well as fruits and vegetables described, that by a careful study of this work and the following of its teachings, failure is almost impossible. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo * $1.50 Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants. By C. L. Allen. A complete treatise on the history, description, methods of propagation and ftt!l directions for the successful culture of bulbs in the garden, dwel- ling and greenhouse. As generally treated, bulbs are an expensive luxury, while when properly managed, they afford the greatest amount of pleasure at the least cost. The author of this book has for many years made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority on their cultivation and management. The illustrations which embellish this work have been drawn from nature, and have been engraved especially for this book. The cultural directions are plainly stated, practical and to the point. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Irrigation Farming. By Lute Wilcox. A handbook for the practical applica- tion of water in the production of crops. A complete treatise on water supply, canal construction, reservoirs and ponds, pipes for irrigation purposes, flumes and their structure, methods of applying water, irrigation of field crops, the garden, the orchard and vineyard; wind- mills and pumps, appliances and contrivances. Profuse- ly, handsomely illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. « • $L50 8TANDAHD BOOKS. Landscape Gardening:. By F. A. Waugh, professor of horticulture, University of Vermont. A treatise on the general principles governing outdoor art; with sundry suggestions for their application in the commoner problems of gardening. Every para- graph is short, terse and to the point, giving perfect clearness to the discussions at all points. In spite of the natural difficulty of presenting abstract principles the whole matter is made entirely plain even to the inexperienced reader. Illustrated, 12mo. Cloth. . $ .50 Fungi and Fungicides. By Prof. Clarence M. Weed. A practical manual con- cerning the fungous diseases of cultivated plants and the means of preventing their ravages. The author has endeavored to give such a concise account of the most important facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to combat them intelligently. 222 pp., 90 ill., 12mo. Paper. 50 cents; cioth $1.00 Talks on Manure. By Joseph Harris, M. S. A series of familiar and prac- tical talks between the author and the deacon, the doctor, and other neighbors, on the whole subject of manures and fertilizers; including a chapter especially written for it by Sir John Bennet Lawes of Rothamsted, England. Cloth, 12mo. ... $1.50 Insects and Insecticides. By Clarence M. Weed, D. Sc, Prof, of entomology and zoology, New Hampshire college of agriculture. A prac- tical manual concerning noxious insects, and methods of preventing their injuries. 334 pages, with many illus- trations. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Mushrooms. How to Grow Them. By Wm. Falconer. This is the most practical work on the subject ever written, and the only book on growing mushrooms published in America. The author describes how he grows mushrooms, and how they are grown for profit by the leading market gardeners, and for home use by the most successful private growers. Engravings drawn from nature expressly for this work. Cloth. $1.00 Handbook of Plants and General Horticulture. By Peter Henderson. This new edition comprises about 50 per cent, more genera than the former one, and em- braces the botanical name, derivation, natural order, etc., together with a short history of the different genera, concise instructions for their propagation and culture, and all the leading local or common English names, together with a comprehensive glossary ©f botanical and technical terms. Plain instructions are also given for the cultivation of the principal vegetables, fruits and flowers. Cloth, large 8vo , $3.00 STANDARD BOOKS, finseng:, Its Cultivation, Harvesting:, Marketing and Market Value. By Maurice G. Kains, with a short account of its history and botany. It discusses in a practical way how to begin with either seed or roots, soil, climate and location, preparation, planting- and maintenance of the beds, arti- ficial propagation, manures, enemies, selection for mar- ket and for improvement, preparation for sale, and the profits that may be expected. This booklet is concisely written, well and profusely illustrated, and should be in the hands of all who expect to grow this drug to supply the export trade, and to add a new and profitable industry to their farms and gardens, without interfering with the regular work. 12mo $ .35 Land Draining. A handbook for farmers on trie principles and practice of draining, by Manly Miles, giving the results of his extended experience in laying tile drains. The directions for the laying out and the construction of tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the errors of imperfect construction, and the disappointment that must neces- sarily follow. This manual for practical farmers will also be found convenient for references in regard to many questions that may arise in crop growing, aside from the special subjects of drainage of which it treats. Cloth, 12mo. , $1.00 Henderson's Practical Floriculture. By Peter Henderson. A guide to the successful propaga- tion and cultivation of florists' plants. The work is not one for florists and gardeners only, but the amateur's wants are constantly kept in mind, and we have a very complete treatise on the cultivation of flowers under glass, or in the open air, suited to those who grow flowers for pleasure as well as those who make them a matter of trade. Beautifully illustrated. New and enlarged edition. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Tobacco Leaf. By J. B. Killebrew and Herbert Myrick. Its Culture and Cure, Marketing and Manufacture. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in growing, harvesting, curing, packing, and selling tobacco, with an account of the operations in every department of tobacco manufacture. The contents of this book are based on actual experiments in field, curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. It is the only work of the kind in existence, and is destined to be the standard practical and scientific authority on the whole subject of tobacco for many years. Upwards of 500 pages and 150 original engravings. • t • • * t • • • $2.00 STANDARD BOOKS, nay and Profit in My uarcren. By E. P. Roe. The author takes us to his garden on the rocky hillsides in the vicinity of West Point, and shows us how out of it, after four years' experience, he evoked a profit of $1,000, and this while carrying on pas- toral and literary labor. It is very rarely that so much literary taste and skill are mated to so much agricultural experience and good sense. Cloth, 12mo. . . $1.00 Forest Planting:. By H. Nicholas Jarchow, LL. D. A treatise on the care of woodlands and the restoration of the denuded timber- lands on plains and mountains. The author has fully described those European methods which have proved to be most useful in maintaining the superb forests of the old world. This experience has been adapted to the dif- ferent climates and trees of America, full instructions being given for forest planting of our various kinds of soil and subsoil, whether on mountain or valley. Illustrated, 12mo $1-50 Soils and Crops of the Farm. By George E. Morrow, M. A., and Thomas F. Hunt. The methods of making available the plant food in the soil are described in popular language. A short history of each of the farm crops is accompanied by a discussion of its culture. The useful discoveries of science are explained as applied in the most approved methods of culture. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo $1.00 American Fruit Culturist. By John J. Thomas. Containing practical directions for the propagation and culture of all the fruits adapted to the United States. Twentieth thoroughly revised and greatly enlarged edition by Wm. H. S. Wood. This new edition makes the work practically almost a new book, containing everything pertaining to large and small fruits as well as sub-tropical and tropical fruits. Richly Illustrated by nearly 800 engravings. 758 pp., 12mo. $2.50 Fertilizers. By Edward B. Voorhees, director of the New Jersey Agri- cultural Experiment Station. It has been the aim of the author to point out the underlying principles and to discuss the important subjects connected with the use of fertilizer materials. The natural fertility of the soil, the functions of manures and fertilizers, and the need of artificial fertilizers are exhaustively discussed. Sepa- rate chapters are devoted to the various fertilizing ele- ments, to the purchase chemical analyses, methods of using fertilizers, and the best fertilizers for each of the most important field, garden and orchard crops. 335 pp , . . .$1.00 STANDARD B00K3. Gardening: for Profit. By Peter Henderson. The standard work on market and family gardening - . The successful experience of the author for more than thirty years, and his willingness to tell, as he does in this work, the secret of his success for the benefit of others, enables him to give most valuable information. The book is profusely illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Herbert's Hints to Horse Keepers. By the late Henry William Herbert (FrE.nk Forester). This is one of the best and most popular works on the horse prepared in this country. A complete manual for horsemen, embracing: How to breed a horse; how to buy a horse; how to break a horse; how to use a horse; how to feed a horse; how to physic a horse (allopathy or ho» moeopathy); how to groom a horse; how to drive a horse; how to ride a horse, etc. Beautifully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. . $1.50 Barn Plans and Outbuildings. Two hundred and fifty-seven illustrations. A most val- uable work, full of ideas, hints, suggestions, plans, etc., for the construction of barns and outbuildings, by prac- tical writers. Chanters are devoted to the economic erection and use of barns, grain barns, house barns, cattle barns, sheep barns, corn houses, smoke houses, ice houses, pig pens, granaries, etc. There are likewise chapters on bird houses, dog houses, tool sheds, ventila- tors, roofs and roofing, doors and fastenings, workshops, poultry houses, manure sheds, barnyards, root pits, etc, Cloth, 12mo $1.00 Cranberry Culture. By Joseph J. White. Contents*. Natural history, history of cultivation, choice n f location, preparing the ground, planting the vin-is, management of meadows, flooding, enemies and difficulties overcome, picking, keeping, pro- fit and loss. Cloth, 12mo $1.08 Ornamental Gardening for Americans. By Elias A. Long, landscape architect. A treatise on beautifying homes, rural districts and cemeteries. A plain and practical work with numerous illustrations a«cj instructions so plain that they may be readily followed. Illustrated. Clo L h, 12mo $1.50 Grape Culturist. By A. S. Fuller. This is one of the very best of works on the culture of the hardy grapes, with full directions for all departments of propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illustrating planting, training, grafting, etc. Cloth, 12mo. ...... $1.5* STANDARD BOOKS. Turkeys and How to Grow Them. Edited by Herbert Myrick. A treatise on the natural his- tory and origin of the name of turkeys; the various breeds, the best methods to insure success in the business of turkey growing. With essays from practical turkey growers in different parts of the United States and Can- ada. Copiously illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. . . $1,00 Profits! Poultry. Usetuf and ornamental breeds and their profitable man- agement. This excellent work contains the combined experience of a number of practical men in all depart- ments of poultry raising. It J s profusely illustrated and forms a unique and important addition to our poultry literature. Cloth, 12mo $1.00 How Crops Grow. By Prof. Samuel W. Johnson of Yale College. New and revised edition. A treatise en the chemical composition, structure and life of the plant. This book is a guide to the knowledge of agricultura 1 plants, their composition, their structure and modes of development and growth; of the complex organization of plants, and the use of the parts; the germination of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and the soil. The book is indispensable to all real students of agriculture. With numerous illustrations an** tables of analysis. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Cofcurn's Swine Husbandry, By F. D. Coburn. New, revised and enlarged edition. The breeding, rearing, and management of swine, and the prevention and treatment of their diseases. It is the full- est and freshest compendium relating »o swine breeding yet offered. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Stewart's Shepherd's Manual. By Henry Stewait. A valuable practical treatise on the sheep for American farmers and sheep growers. It is so plain that a farmer or a farmer's son who has never kept a sheep, may learn from its pages how to manage a flock successfully, and yet so complete that oven the experienced shepherd may gather many suggestions from it. The results of personal experience of some years with the characters of the various modern breeds of sheep, and the sheep raising capabilities of many por- tions of our extensive territory and that of Canada — and the careful study of the diseases to which our sheep are chiefly subject, with those by which they may even- tually be afflicted through unforeseen accidents — as well us the methods of management called for under our circumstances, are carefully described. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. • . $1.09 STANDARD BOOKS, Feeds and Feeding. By W. A. Henry. This handbook for students and stocK men constitutes a compendium of practical and useful knowledge on plant growth and animal nutrition, feed- ing stuffs, feeding animals and every detail pertaining to this important subject. It is thorough, accurate and reliable, and is th( most valuable contribution to live stock literature in many years. All the latest and best information is cleai ly and systematically presented, mak- ing the work indispensable to every owner of live stock. 658 pages, 8vo. Cloth $2.00 Hunter and Trapper. By Halsey Thrasher, an old and experienced sportsman. The best modes of hunting and trapping are fully ex- plained, and foxes, deer, Dears, etc., fall into his traps readily by following his directions. Cloth, 12mo. $ .50 The Ice Crop. By Theron L. Hiles. How to harvest, ship and use ice. A complete, practical treatise for farmers, dairymen, ice dealers, produce shippers, meat packers, cold storers, and all interested in ice houses, cold storage, and the handling or use of ice in any way. Including many recipes for iced dishes and beverages. The book is illustrated by cuts of the tools and machinery used in cutting and storing ice, and the different forms of ice houses and cold storage buildings. 122 pp., ill., 16mo. Cloth. . $1.08 Practical Forestry. By Andrew S. Fuller. A treatise on the propagation, planting and cultivation, with descriptions and the botan- ical and popular names of all the indigenous trees of tha United States, and notes on a large number of the most valuable exotic species $1.50 Irrigation for the Farm, Garden and Orchard. By Henry Stewart. This work is offered to those Amer- ican farmers and other cultivators of the soil who, from painful experience, can readily appreciate the losses which result from the scarcity of water at critical periods. Fully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo $1.00 Market Gardening and Farm Notes. By Burnett I.andreth. Experiences and observation for both North and South, of interest to the amateur gar- dener, trucker and farmer. A novel feature of the book is the calendar of farm and garden operations for each month of the year; the chapters on fertilizers, trans- planting, succession and rotation of crops, the packing, shipping and marketing of vegetables will be especially useful to market gardeners. Cloth, 12mo. • • $1.00 North Carolina State University Libraries SB389 .C55 CHORLTONS GRAPE GROWERS GUIDE A HAND-BOOK OF S02787828 R