: GARDEN WEEK f BY WEEK i V/AUERR WRIGHT mifE ^. p. ^iU ^tiiranj ^ortlj ffiarolma ^tatc College n Date Due n i m ^H^M J Hffl5Sep3 4 1 i '^ .___lSB453 W8 ^],..^--M^3:^L^):i^^-r-^-^^-Zr From a Wtthr Cohmr Drawing by E. A. Rowe Traveller's Joy on a Gate Pillar at Montacutk, Dioision of Ilorticuiture, THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK THROUGHOUT THE YEAR A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK TO GARDENING OPERATIONS FOR EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR AND TO THE CULTURE OF ALL IMPORTANT PLANTS WITH NUMEROUS COLOURED PLATES AND HALF-TONE ENGRAVINGS ONE HUNDRED PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS WALTER P" WRIGHT HORTICULTURAL SUPERINTENDENT UNDER THE KENT COUNTY COUNCIL AUTHOR OF "popular GARDEN FLOWERS," " THE PERFECT GARDEN," ETC. SECOND EDITION S. 0. Dep't of Ap;ric NEW YORK DOUBLEDAY PAGE ^ COMPANY LONDON: GRANT RICHARDS LTD. First Edition . . June 1909 Second Edition . . February 191 1 Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson &> Co. At the Ballantyne Press, Edinburgh PREFACE A BRIEF calendar of gardening operations throughout the year has formed an item in many books on horti- culture ; it has been put in as a kind of summary. Readers have not been wanting who have declared that the few pages at the end of such volumes are the most useful parts of them, and that many more pro- minent portions are negligible. This suggests that a book which is wholly calen- darial, but illustrated with practical figures as well as photographs and coloured plates, might secure a good constituency ; hence the preparation of the present volume. It does not contain anything whatever about Garden Art, nor about the general principles of gardening. (I have dealt with them in its predecessor "The Perfect Garden.") It is composed of twelve practical chapters, subdivided so as to show seasonable work for every week in the year. Its scheme is therefore the essence of simplicity. The reader is told what operations to perform, and what plants to grow every week. Information is given in detail, but each section is summarised, so that a glance tells what to do at any given period. Readers in the north will find that they must work about a fortnight later than those in the south. Thus, in North Britain, the operations for the second half of PREFACE March will be performed in the first fortnight of April, and so on. The many practical illustrations, though plain, will, it is hoped, be helpful. I trust that the book may be found an appropriate companion to "The Perfect Garden." WALTER P. WRIGHT. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. The Opening Year — Seeds, Selections of Vegetables and Flowers— Asters — Sweet Peas — Weekly Work in January . . i II. Many Buds, some Bloom, and the Early Bird — Weekly Work in February ... 64 III. The Dawn of Spring — Weekly Work in March 109 IV. Late Showers and Early Flowers — Weekly Work in April 168 V. May Morns — Weekly Work in May . .198 VI. Rose Time — Weekly Work in June . . .222 VII. The Heart of the Year — Weekly Work in July 271 VIII. The Harvest Month in the Garden — Weekly Work in August 299 IX. In Indian Summers — Weekly Work in September 325 X. A New Outlook — Weekly Work in October . 344 XI. Chrysanthemum Time — Weekly Work in November 374 XII. The Christmas Garden — Weekly Work in December 391 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR Traveller's Joy on a Gate Pillar at Montacute, Somerset- shire Frontispiece Facing A The Private Garden at Hampton Court 44 Flower Beds and Borders at Campsea Ashe, Suffolk ... 66 Herbaceous Borders, with Roses, at Harleyford Manor, Marlow 114 The West Border, Hatfield 230 Herbaceous Flowers and Clipped Yews round the Bowling Green at Berkeley Castle, Gloucestershire .... 378 IN BLACK AND WHITE The Crown Anemone (Coronaria), a plant of many beautiful colours. The St. Brigid and Alderborough are splendid strains of it 18 The Star Cineraria (Stellata), a free-flowering section, very brilliant in colour, and useful for winter bloom ... 24 The charming dwarf Lobelia Kathleen Mallard, deep blue in colour, and full double 26 Marie Louise, one of the best-flavoured of all Pears, but not hardy enough for the open, and should therefore be grown on a wall 38 The Japanese Pink, Dianthus Heddewigii, grown as an annual from seed sown the same year 70 Worcester Pearmain, a valuable early dessert Apple ; the tree is a healthy grower, and a prolific bearer. It is an excellent sort for a small garden, to precede Cox's Orange Pippin . 80 ix b LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Facing p. Coe's Golden Drop, one of the best of late dessert Plums ; it will thrive on a wall facing east 82 The Rose Campion, Agrostemma coronaria . . . .112 A pretty and free-flowering half-hardy annual for greenhouse or garden — Nemesia strumosa Suttoni . . . . .120 The popular room Fern Asplenium bulbiferum. This graceful Fern bears young plants on its fronds 134 The well-known forcing Strawberry Auguste Nicaise. . .136 One of the best of rock;plants — Saxifraga Hypnoides. It covers a considerable area of rockwork with foliage quickly, and blooms profusely 148 The perennial Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens, a good and inex- pensive plant for rockery work. It covers a considerable area quickly, and looks charming on the face of a large stone 150 Single annual Chrysanthemums from seed sown out of doors in spring 174 White scented Poppies 174 The variegated aloe-leaved Yucca (Yucca aloefolia variegata) as a room plant 190 The pretty greenhouse Primula, Obconica, a very useful plant, but one which sometimes causes sores on the skin of those who handle it ungloved 202 The pretty white Harebell, Campanula rotundifolia alba . . 234 The beautiful spotted Gum Cistus, Cistus cyprius or ladaniferus maculatus, a charming shrub for dry rockeries . . . 236 The purple Mullein, Verbascum Phoeniceum, a handsome border plant 254 The double white Arabis, a fine dwarf plant for the border or rockery, and almost as good as Lily of the Valley for cutting 288 Early white Roman Hyacinths grown in an ornamental vase containing peat-moss litter ; no soil is used . . . 292 The sweetest of all winter-flowering bulbs, Freesia refracta alba 302 A pot of " Butterfly Flowers " (Schizanthus), a splendid green- house plant, both for spring and autumn bloom . . . 306 Double Trumpet Daffodils, or Lent Lilies, in a border under a wall 316 Winter cheerfulness in the bare border — a colony of yellow Crocuses 358 X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Facing p. A colony of Snowdrops on a winter day 364 The Summer Snowflake, Leucojum aestivum, a charming bulb to plant in autumn 366 A clump of white Tulips 368 The handsome hardy border plant Stenactis speciosa . . 376 A fine bush of the popular Lilac Charles X., a variety which is often forced for early bloom 380 The Mezereon (Daphne Mezereum), a deliciously scented shrub that flowers in winter (see page 380) 396 For the practical illustrations see the General Index at the end of the volume CHAPTER I THE OPENING YEAR When does the garden year begin ? The enthusiast Jan. would declare that it has no beginning and no ending. But whatever may be the case with the garden itself, it is certain that a book about gardens must have some point of departure. January is chosen from a sense of custom rather than from a conviction that it is the month of months for gardeners — that in January most people who practise gardening during part of the year make their annual start. I do not think that they begin in January as a rule. People who pursue gardening in one well-marked period probably work, roughly, from mid-March to September inclusive. If gardening is discontinued at all it is given up when the long nights and cold weather of October come. And if it is darkness and cold which induce amateurs to suspend operations, these discom- forts are likely to retain their influence until the end of February at least. Many people specialise particular plants, or classes of plants, in these days, however, and so are led on from season to season. Perhaps they are Daffodil or Tulip lovers, in which case they pot and plant in Autumn for the Spring display. Possibly they are Chrysanthemum enthusiasts, and if so the delights of their gardening year will not culminate until November. If they are rosarians A nOPERTY UBRABT THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. they will probably be gathering flowers in October (the Rose is very nearly an all-the-year-round plant nowa- days), and certainly they will be planting in November. Mainly about Seeds January is rarely an active month in the garden. It is a month of preparation rather than of active work. It is the great seed-buying month. The last batch of New Year Cards has hardly finished fluttering through the door than the heavy thud of the catalogues begins. The minor writer quivers at the thumps in the letter-box ; they so often mean returned manuscripts. But the garden-lover rejoices in them. He pores over the descriptions of new plants. He gloats over the beautiful pictures. Old garden stagers never delay despatching their seed order until the Spring. They have learned from experience that they are never quite safe unless they get the seed early and keep it by them. Weather vagaries have to be reckoned with. If amateurs sometimes have to lag behind the calendar they can sometimes anticipate it. Let me give an illustration. I am presently going to say that a person who has a warm, sheltered place in the garden may sow green Peas in the latter half of February. That is quite the orthodox thing. But if there is snow on the ground he will not act until it has gone, and that may mean sowing in March. Supposing that at the end of January the weather is mild, and the soil dry enough to crumble freely, is there any serious objection to anticipating the calendar by a whole month ? There is not. If the favourable conditions for sowing come, and the grower has the seed by him, let him take the risk with a light 2 THE OPENING YEAR heart. The seed may lie dormant for some time if Jan. the weather should turn cold, but it is not likely to perish. Here, then, is one advantage of buying seeds in January ; they are always ready when wanted. Another is that there is rarely the disappointment of finding that something which was particularly wanted has been sold out. In the case of novelties, which are always in great demand, this may easily happen in February, still more easily in March. Those leisurely garden-lovers who rouse themselves from their winter sleep in March, and, tearing off the wrapper of a catalogue, begin to make selections of Sweet Peas, are sometimes brought up with a round turn at finding that the most admired variety on the coloured plate is not procurable. Early buyers have gobbled it up to the last seed. Amateur gardeners rejoice in a batch of catalogues as a bibliophile revels in the crowded shelves of a book- shop. How enticing are the descriptions ! How ravish- ing are the illustrations I Perhaps a little perplexity creeps in when one reads of a dozen varieties of Kidney Beans, all of which have marvellous cropping powers, huge pods, and delicious flavour. One wants them all, yet has room only for two. Or one has heard what a beautiful annual the Godetia is, and, little recking that there are many varieties, is a little bewildered when, on turning to the page, one finds that a choice has to be made from among fifteen to twenty sorts. But the writer of gardening books will not deplore the fecundity of seed-raisers, because it drives the buyer to consult his pages. And the odds are that the novice himself will find a fearful and secret joy in getting himself enmeshed in a mass of plant names. 3 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. During the progress of my chapters from January to December I shall have occasion to refer to a good many varieties of flowers, fruits, and vegetables, many of which are raised from seeds. Let me save repetition later on by offering some practical suggestions about seed-buying at the outset. How to get Catalogues. — Is the reader a beginner in gardening ? Is he ignorant of the names of seedsmen ? Is he one of those unhappy beings who own no member- ship of gardening societies ? The way to invite a cataract of catalogues is to join the Royal Horticultural Society, or some other prominent horticultural body. What happens is this : The Secretary prints your name and address in his list of members (members are "Fellows" in the case of the Royal Horticultural Society, you can become a Fellow for one guinea), and a horde of enter- prising seedsmen extract them and post you lists. If, however, you have no membership or fellowship, and catalogues do not pour in spontaneously, there is a simple way of getting them. It is to buy a gardening paper the next time that you are at a railway bookstall, or in a newspaper shop, and send postcards to some of the advertisers. The Price of Seeds. — The catalogues come. Some of them are small octavo publications, with a few illus- trations. Others are thick quarto volumes of several hundred pages, with numerous photographic figures, and possibly some coloured plates also. There is more of interest in the richly illustrated quarto than in the plain octavo, and possibly the latter is put aside in the first place, only to be turned to again if it is found that the order made up from the larger volume has run into several pounds more than it was expected to do. Can a buyer safely turn to a small dealer for his garden seeds ? 4 THE OPENING YEAR Can he economise in seeds without running serious risk Jan. of his garden becoming a wilderness of noxious weeds ? The answer to these questions is : Yes, provided he is satisfied with standard varieties of the different kinds of vegetables and flowers. There are certain sorts of Peas, Beans, Lettuces, Sweet Peas, annual Phloxes, Asters, Stocks, and so forth which are in such constant demand that it pays wholesale dealers to grow them largely and sell them cheaply to retail seedsmen. Even small pro- vincial representatives of the latter class can be relied upon, as a general rule, to supply seeds of standard sorts true to type, fresh, and of good germinating power. The large seed houses, whose trial grounds are seen, radiant with bloom, from the railway carriages on many lines, and whose catalogues are almost worthy of being described as works of art, have specialities of their own, often superior to the standard sorts. These cannot be bought at low prices. How to Select Seeds. — That happy being who is sufficiently well off to be able to select any kind of plants that he wants may choose from the specialities of the best seed houses with the certainty of getting grati- fying results, but those whose means are limited, and who are compelled to buy cheaply, will be well advised to order standard sorts. Of course, the big seedsmen will supply these as well as the little one, and though his prices will be higher, they will probably be lower than for his own specialities. I cannot but think that there are many beginners in gardening who find a serious initial difficulty in choosing seeds, and I have therefore begun by preparing a few tables, with a view to assisting in the task of making out a seed order. THE GARDEN WEEK BY Vv^EEK Jan. Standard Varieties of the Principal Vegetables Kind. Variety. Artichoke . Large Green Globe >j . Jerusalem (tuberous) Asparagus . Connover's Colossal Beans, Broad . . Early Longpod, Taylor's Broad Windsor „ Dwarf French . Canadian Wonder „ Runner . Scarlet Beetroot . . Dell's Crimson Borecole . . Dwarf Green Curled Broccoli . . Leamington, Purple Sprouting Brussels Sprouts . Aigburth Cabbage . . Ellam's Early Carrots . . Early Horn, James's Intennediate Cauliflower . Early London, Autumn Giant Celery . . Standard Bearer (red) Cucumber . Improved Telegraph Endive . Batavian Leek . Musselburgh Lettuce . . Superb Cos, Continuity Onion . James's Keeping, Ailsa Craig Parsley . . Curled Parsnip . . Hollow Crown Pea . . . . Gradus, Duke of Albany, Autocrat Potato . Duke of York, Sharpe's Express, Up-to-date Radish . . Turnip, French Breakfast Rhubarb . . Victoria Savoy . Drumhead Seakale . . Ordinary Spinach . . Round, Prickly Tomato . . Sunrise, Supreme Turnip . Early Milan, Snowball, Red Globe Vegetable Marrow . Long White Every variety named above is absolutely reliable, pro- vided the seed is sound, and very little old or untried seed is sold in these days. Having disposed of the varieties, let me proceed to offer suggestions as to the quantities. These must turn upon the size of the garden, the number in the family, and the character of the establishment ; and I will give lists for various classes. 6 THE OPENING YEAR Vegetables for Small Town Gardens Vegetables are rarely grown in small town gardens, partly because space is very limited, partly because supplies are brought to the door by greengrocers. Practically only Scarlet Runners are grown, and gener- ally seed of this popular old vegetable is put in with as keen an eye to the brightness of the flowers as to the tenderness of the pods. The plants are grown to cover a fence or an arbour. Half-a-pint of seed will suffice, and it may be sown in May. Jan. Vegetables for Suburban Gardens Suburban houses are well catered for by green- grocers, and as the space available for gardening is but little, as a rule, the greater part of it is generally devoted to flowers. Suburban gardeners should devote whatever space they can spare to vegetables to comparative delicacies, such as Beans, Peas, early Potatoes, Tomatoes, Lettuces, and Radishes. They should not give it up to coarse things like Greens, which smell abominably in wet weather, and are a nuisance to everybody. The following would make a good selection for a small suburban garden : — Kind. Variety. Quantity. Beans, Dwarf French . Canadian Wonder 2 pi"t „ Runner Scarlet 2 P^"t Carrot Early Horn 2 OZ. Lettuce . Superb Cos I packet Pea. Gradus Autocrat ipint ipint Radish . French Breakfast I oz. Potato . Sharpe's Express *peck THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. This collection need not cost more than half-a-crown or three shillings, but the exact cost will depend on the class of seedsman. Vegetables for Villa Gardens The gardens of country and suburban villas are gene- rally large enough to accommodate a good selection of vegetables, and if a part of the kitchen garden is at some little distance from the house there need be no hesitation in including Greens, which are very useful in autumn, winter, and spring. The following would be a good selection, and the quantities given will suffice for a garden not exceeding half an acre in extent : — Kind. Variety. Quantity. ^Asparagus Beans, Broad . „ French „ Runner Beetroot . Borecole . Broccoli . Brussels Sprouts Cabbage . Cauliflower Carrot Celery Cucumber Endive . Leek Lettuce . Mustard and Cress Onion Parsley . Parsnip . Pea . Longpod Canadian Wonder Scarlet Dell's Crimson Dwarf Green Curled Leamington Aigburth Eliam's Early Autumn Giant Early Horn Standard Bearer Telegraph Batavian Musselburgh Superb Cos Continuity James's Keeping Curled Hollow Crown Gradus Autocrat I pmt i pint I pint ioz. |oz. I packet ^oz. ioz. I packet ^oz. I packet I packet I packet I packet I packet I packet 4 oz. of each }. oz. I packet a oz. I pint I pint THE OPENING YEAR Kind. Variety. Quantity. Potato Sharpe's Express I peck „ Up-to-date I peck Radish French Breakfast I oz. Turnip I oz. *Rhubarb Victoria Savoy Drumhead Joz. *Seakale Spinach Round 2 OZ. Tomato Sunrise I packet Turnip Early Milan Red Globe I oz. I oz. Vegetable Mai -row Long White I packet Jan. For gardens exceeding half an acre in area an in- crease can be made either in the quantities or in the number of varieties. Thus, for a fairly large kitchen garden the quantities of seed suggested above might be doubled, but it would be better to increase the number of varieties in some cases, notably Cauliflowers, Celery, Onions, Peas, and Potatoes, because not only is more produce thereby secured, but it can be had in succession over a longer period. Special provision should always be made for a long supply of Green Peas, if space permits of several rows being sown, as the vegetable is so delicious. The time and method of sowing will be dealt with later. * Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale will not be ready for use from seed in less than three years, and on this account many people prefer to buy roots. They can be ordered with the seeds in January. Particulars of planting and cultivation will be given in due course. Two dozen roots of Asparagus and Seakale will be required to make anything like a bed. Six roots of Rhubarb will suffice for most villa gardens. The cost of the above seeds need not exceed half a guinea, but, as before said, much depends upon the class of seedsman. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. Standard Varieties of the Principal Flowers RAISED from Seed Although the greater number of the most important vegetables are raised from seed, this is not the case with flowers. Roses are generally propagated by budding, Carnations by layering. Dahlias by cuttings, and her- baceous plants by division — all in the several manners to be described in later pages. But a good many useful and popular plants are raised from seed, and these can be ordered at the same time as the vegetables. I shall have occasion to refer to all of the following in the subsequent pages, and I therefore recommend that seed of them be ordered in January. Except in the case of large gardens, packets will suffice in nearly every case. A packet of hardy flower seeds always contains enough seed to sow a good row or several clumps. More may be wanted of a few special things, such as mixed Sweet Peas, Mignonette, and Nasturtiums ; in these cases ounces or half-ounces may be ordered. As with vegetables, the price of the packet varies with the standing of the seedsman. Dealers of the highest class do not, as a rule, offer seed of even the cheapest hardy annuals at less than threepence per packet, but the same quantities can be bought from others for a penny. There are not wanting bold and enterprising seeds- men who will sell you any kind of flower seed for a penny, even such things as Primulas, Begonias, and Cyclamens, which are generally sold at eighteenpence and half-a-crown a packet. The number of seeds in these very cheap packets is, of course, small, but it is sound enough, as a rule. JP THE OPENING YEAR Flower Garden Plants My first table shall be flower garden plants. All those named are worth growing. The annuals are hardy unless marked half (J) hardy. Jan. Kind. Species or Variety. Class, Colour. Ageratum . . Imperial Dwarf 1 -hardy annual Blue Alyssum . . Maritimum 'Annual White (sweet) » Saxatile com- pactum Perennial Yellow Amaranthus . Melancholicus ruber Italica Dropmore J-hardy annual Red foliage Anchusa . . Perennial Blue variety Antirrhinum Mixed Perennial Various (Snapdragon) Aquilegia Mixed Perennial Various (Columbine) Arabis . . . Alpina Perennial White Arctotis . . . Grandis 1-hardy annual Mauve & yellow Argemone . . Mexicana Annual Yellow (sweet) Aster, China . See special notes i-hardy annual Various Aubrietia . . Purpurea Perennial Purple Bartonia . . Aurea Annual Yellow Begonia . . Tuberous section Perennial Various Calandrinia . Umbellata Perennial Crimson CalHopsis . . Drummondi Annual Orange Campanula Attica Annual Violet " Medium caly- canthema Biennial Blue or white Canary Tropaeolum ^hardy annual Yellow Creeper . . canariense Candytuft . . Carmine Annual Carmine j> ' Crimson Annual Crimson White Annual White Canterbury Blue, rose or white Biennial Blue, rose, Bell white Carnation . . Mixed Perennial Various Chrysanthe- Burridgeanum Annual Brown & lilac mum • • Double annual Annual White& yellow THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour. Chrysanthe- Morning Star Annual Primrose mum >) King Edward VI I. Perennial White Clarkia . . . Elegans Annual Pink „ ... Marginata Annual Rose & white Cobaea . . . Scandens Perennial Purple Collinsia . . Bicolor Annual Blue & white Columbine . . Mixed Perennial Various Convolvulus . Splendens Annual Blue V Climbing Annual Various Coreopsis . . See Calliopsis Cornflower Blue Annual Blue (Centaurea) . Cosmos or Mixed Annual Various Cosmea Delphinium . Mixed Perennial Various Dianthus Chinensis mixed Biennial Various (Indian Pink) >) Heddewigii Biennial Various Digitalis (Fox- Mixed Perennial Various glove) Erysimum . . Peroffskianum Annual Orange Eschscholtzia . Crocea Annual Orange )» Rose Cardinal Annual Rose Evening Prim- Biennis Perennial Yellow rose (Oeno- thera) Forget-me-not Myosotis dissiti- flora Perennial Blue Foxglove . . Mixed Biennial Various Gaillardia . . Picta Lorenziana Perennial Orange, red, yellow Gilia .... Tricolor Annual Purple . . . . Tricolor alba Annual White „ . . . . Coronopifolia Biennial Scariet Godetia . . . Dwarf Pink Annual Pink >j ... Lady Albemarle Annual Crimson Golden Pyrethrum aureum Perennial Yellow Feather Gypsophila Paniculata Perennial White Helianthus. . See Sunflower Helichrysum Mixed Annual Various (Everlasting) Hollyhock . . Mixed Perennial Various Honesty . . Rose Perennial White pods THE OPENING YEAR Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour. Iberis . . . Sempervirens Perennial White Indian Pink . Mixed Biennial Various Incarvillea . . Delavayi Perennial Rose Jacobaea . . Mixed Annual Various Kochia . . . Trichophila Annual Pretty foliage Larkspur . . Mixed Annual Various Lathyrus lati- Everlasting Pea Perennial Red folius Linaria . . . Mixed Annual Various Lavatera . . Rosea Annual Rose Leptosiphon . Mixed Hybrids Annual Various Limnanthes . Douglasii Annual Yellow & white Linum . . . Rubrum Annual Scarlet Lobelia . . . Speciosa Perennial Blue Love-in-a-mist Nigella Damascena Annual Blue Love-lies- Amaranthus cau- .}-hardy annual Red bleeding . . datus Lupins, annual Blue, rose,white, &c. Annual Different Lupinus . . . Nanus Annual Blue Lychnis . . . Chalcedonica Perennial Scarlet Malope Grandiflora Annual Rose (Mallow) Marigold . . African i-hardy annual Yellow, orange » French i-hardy annual Striped Marvel of Peru Mixed Perennial Various Matthiola . . Bicornis Annual Lilac (sweet) Matricaria . . Eximia Perennial Double white& double yellow Mignonette Ordinary Annual Buff . Machet Annual Red Mimulus(Mon- Mixed ^-hardy annual Various key Flower) Myosotis . . See Forget-me-not Nasturtium Tom Thumb Annual Scarlet, rose white, &c. » Tall mixed Annual Various Nemesia . . Mixed i-hardy annual Various Nemophila . . Insignis Annual Blue Nicotiana . . Affinis Perennial White (sweet) „ . . Sylvestris Perennial White Nigella . . . Miss Jekyll Annual Blue Night-scented See Matthiola Stock Oenothera . . Macrocarpa Biennial Yellow, Even- ing Primrose Jan. 13 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour, Pampas Grass Gynerium argen- teum Perennial White plumes Pansy . . . Mixed Perennial Various Papaver . . . Nudicaule Biennial Orange yellow Passion Flower Passiflora caerulea Perennial Blue Pentstemon . Mixed Perennial Various Petunia . . . Mixed Perennial Various Phacelia . . Campanularia Annual Blue Phlox . . . Drummondi J-hardy annual Various Physalis (Win- Franchetti Perennial Scarlet ter Cherry) . Platystemon . Californicus Annual Lemon Polyanthus Mixed Perennial Various Poppy . . . Carnation-flowered Annual Various double Annual White, scarlet, pink, &c. . Shirley Annual Various Portulaca . . Mixed J-hardy annual Various Ricinus(Castor Gibsoni i^-hardy annual Handsome oil plant) . . leaves Rocket, sweet . Purple or white Perennial Purple, white RoseCampion . Agrostemma coronaria Perennial Crimson Salpiglossis . Mixed i-hardy annual Various Salvia . . . Blue Beard l-hardy annual Blue Saponaria . . Calabrica Annual Rose Scabious, sweet Mixed Perennial Various Schizopetalon . Walkeri Annual White, sweet Silene . . . Pendula compacta Annual Pink „ ... Armeria Annual Rose Statice (Sea Sinuata Annual Various Lavender) Stock. . . . German lo-week -|-hardy annual Various „ . . . . Giant Perfection .^ -hardy annual Various „ . . . . Brompton Biennial Various „ . . . . Night-scented Annual Lilac Stokesia . . . Cyanea Perennial Mauve Sunflower . . Miniature Annual Yellow » • • Tall Perennial Yellow Swan River Brachycome iberidi- Hardy annual Blue Daisy folia Sweet Peas . See special list Sweet Rocket . White or purple Perennial White, purple Sweet Sultan . White, yellow Annual White, yellow Sweet William Mixed Biennial Various Tagetes . . . Signata pumila i-hardy annual Yellow 14 THE OPENING YEAR Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour, Tobacco, sweet See Nicotiana Tropaeolum . Canariense i-hardy annual Yellow Canary Creeper Venus' Looking- Specularia specu- Annual Blue glass . . . lum Verbascum . . Olympicum Biennial Yellow Verbena . . . Mixed Perennial Various Virginian Stock Pink, white Annual Pink, white Viscaria . . . Cardinalis Annual Scarlet Wallflower . . Belvoir Castle Biennial Yellow „ Blood red Biennial Red ») Double Biennial Various Annual Annual Various Winter Cherry Physalis Franchetti Perennial Orange pods Zinnia . . . Single mixed il-hardy annual Various » ... Double J-hardy annual Various Jan. This is a long list, but there is no obligation on any reader to order all the plants named in it. He will make his choice from knowledge of the plants, or from the descriptions in the catalogues, or from the fuller references to most of the plants which follow in these pages. The annuals, if hardy, are raised by sowing out of doors in March and April ; if half-hardy, under glass in March, or out of doors in May. The biennials and perennials are mostly raised by sowing out of doors in May or June, but a few, such as Antirrhinums, Verbenas, Pentstemons, Indian Pinks and Pansies, are sown in winter or early spring, under glass, for blooming the same year. A fuller list is given in Chapter VI. China Asters and Sweet Peas are certainly two of the most important plants in the list, and I will therefore give special selections of them. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. China or Annual Asters These beautiful half-hardy annuals have been special- ised to such an extent that nearly a dozen distinct types are now sold by seedsmen. They differ in the height to which the plant grows, and in the colour of the flowers. In each section there are several distinct colours which are offered in "assortments" or "collections" of separate colours, but can be bought at a cheaper rate in mixture. The following are the principal sections : Quilled, which has rolled florets. Paeony-flowered, which has incurved florets. Dwarf Chrysanthemu7n -flowered, which has reflexed florets. Victoria, which also has reflexed florets. Crown or Cockade, which has flowers with a white centre. Dwarf Bouquet, which is very low growing, and is suitable for pots or the edges of beds. Co?net, which has broad, flattish, drooping florets, flowers very large. Ostrich Plume, which has large flowers with loose, feathery central florets, that impart a very graceful appearance to the blooms. Single, — This is the Callistephus sinensis of botanists, and has pretty mauve flowers. The three most important sections for flower-garden decoration are probably the Victoria, the Comet, and the Ostrich Plume, all of which make beautiful beds, or handsome clumps in borders. They grow about two feet high. Sweet Peas The Sweet Pea has progressed so rapidly under the hands of cross-fertilisers that there are now two or three hundred varieties. Much use can be made of Sweet Peas in the flower garden, as we shall presently see, and it is therefore very desirable to have a selection of good i6 THE OPENING YEAR sorts. I append a list. Those marked with an asterisk Jan. may be chosen if room cannot be found for all the varieties named. They are arranged in their colours. «^/4z'/^.— Dorothy Eckford, *Etta Dyke Blush. — *Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes Crimson. — Sunproof Crimson Scarlet. — Queen Alexandra Carmine. — *John Ingman Cream. — * Clara Curtis Dark blue. — Lord Nelson Mauve blue. — *A. J. Cook Light blue. — Masterpiece, *Lady G. Hamilton Cerise. — Chrissie Unwin /■/w/^.— *Countess Spencer, Con- stance Oliver Oran<;e. —Y.dndi Unwin, *Helen Lewis Greenhouse and Conservatory Plants At the same time as flower seeds are being ordered for the garden, packets of certain beautiful kinds suitable for adorning the greenhouse and conservatory can be procured. Some of them will be sown in winter, some in spring, and some in summer, as we shall see hereafter. Here is the list in tabular form : Magenta. — Menie Christie Primrose, rose edge. — * Evelyn Hemus Primrose with rose border. — Mrs. Henry Bell White with rose edge. — *Elsie Herbert Mauve. — Tennant Spencer Maroon. — * Nubian Rose Jlake.— Mrs. W, J. Unwin Blue /lake. — Suffragette Blue-veined. — *Helen Pierce Bicolor. — Mrs. A. Ireland Violet and purple. — Rosie Adams Salmon, — Earl Spencer Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour. Abutilon . . Mixed Perennial Various Acacia . . . Lophantha Perennial Yellow Acroclinium . Roseum Annual ever- lasting Rose » Album Annual ever- lasting White Alonsoa . . . Warscewiczii Annual Scarlet Anagallis . . Grandiflora Annual Blue Balsam . . . Camellia-flowered Annual Various 17 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour. Begonia . . . Single and double Perennial Various Browallia . . Elata Annual Blue Calceolaria . . Mixed herbaceous Perennial Various Campanula. . Pyramidalis Perennial Blue, white Carnation . . Marguerite Annual Various Celosia . . . Plumosa Annual Red, yellow Coleus . . . Mixed Perennial Handsome leaves Cineraria . . Mixed Perennial Various » Star-flowered Perennial Various Cockscomb Prize Perennial Crimson Cuphea . . . Miniata Annual Scarlet Cyclamen . . Giant Perennial Various Diascia . . . Barberae Annual Pink Exacum . . , Affine Biennial Mauve Francoa . . , Ramosa Perennial White Gerbera . . . Jamesoni Perennial Scarlet Gloxinia. . . Mixed hybrid Perennial Various Grevillea . . Robusta Perennial Fern-like leaves Heliotrope . . Mixed Perennial Various Hibiscus . . Manihot Perennial Primrose Crimson eye Humea . . . Elegans Perennial Brown, sweet Impatiens . . Holstii Perennial Orange Isolepis . . . Gracilis Perennial Grass Lobelia . . . Ramosa (tenuior) Perennial Blue Lophospermum Scandens Perennial Pink Mignonette Miles' Spiral Annual Buff Maurandya Purpurea Perennial Purple Musk . . . Mimulus moschatus Perennial Yellow, sweet Nicotiana . . Affinis Perennial White, sweet Nemesia . . Mixed Annual Various Petunia . . . Double fringed Perennial Various Primula . . . Fringed Perennial Various » ... Double Perennial Various )t ... Fern-leaved Perennial Various >) ... Stellata (star) Perennial Various Obconica grandi- Perennial Blush flora „ ... Kewensis Perennial Yellow Rehmannia Angulata Perennial Pink Rhodanthe . . Manglesi Annual ever- lasting Rose, white Rivina . . . Humilis Perennial Red berries i8 THE OPENING YEAR Kind. Species or Variety. Class. Colour. Saintpaulia . . lonantha Perennial Violet Sensitive plant Mimosa pudica Perennial Peculiar leaves Schizanthus . Wisetonensis Annual Various Streptocarpus . Stock. . . . Mixed hybrid Perennial Various German lo-week Annual Various Intermediate Biennial Various Tacsonia . . Van Volxemi Perennial Scarlet Thunbergia Alata Annual Buff, dark eye Torenia . . . Bailloni Annual Yellow, purple throat ,, ... Foumieri Annual Violet and white Verbena. . . Mixed Perennial Various Zinnia . . . Double mixed Annual Various Jan. Bulbs, Tubers, and other Roots We have not quite done with the seedsman's catalogue when we have made the selections of vegetable and flower seeds that we want for our year's supply, because it generally contains a short list of bulbs, tubers, and other roots which are planted in spring. Here is a table of these plants. In a few cases, notably tuberous Begonias, Gloxinias, and Streptocarpus, we have already seen that they can be raised from seed, but flowers can be got quicker by planting or potting tubers : Kind. Species or Variety. Colour. Greenhouse or Garden. Achimenes . . Agapanthus . Amaryllis . . Anemone . . Begonia . . . Mixed Umbellatus Mixed hybrid Alderborough St. Brigid Fulgens Tuberous Various Blue Various Various Various Scarlet Various Greenhouse Tubs outdoors Greenhouse Garden Garden Garden Both 19 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Kind. Species or Variety. Colour. Greenhouse or Garden. Calla (Arum) . The Godfrey White Greenhouse Canna . . . Many varieties Various Both Dahlia . . . Many varieties Various Garden Dielytra . . . Spectabilis Pink Both Galtonia , . Candicans White Garden Gesnera . . . Mixed hybrid Various Greenhouse Gladiolus . . Mixed hybrid Various Garden Gloxinia . . Prize Various Greenhouse Helleborus . . Niger (Christmas Rose) White Garden Hemerocallis . Flava(Day Lily) Yellow Garden Hepatica . . Various Various Garden Hyacinthus See Galtonia Irises . . . Various Various Garden Kniphofia . . Various Various Garden Liliums . . . Various Various Garden Lily of the Val- Common White Garden ley Montbretia . . Various Mostly orange Garden Paeony . . . Herbaceous Various Garden Ranunculus . Various Various Garden Solomon's Seal Common Greenish white Garden Spiraea . . . Aruncus White Garden „ ... Filipendula flore White Garden pleno >t ... Palmata Crimson Garden Streptocarpus . Hybrid Various Greenhouse Tritoma . . Various Various Garden Tropoeolum . Polyphyllum Yellow Garden i> Speciosum Scarlet Garden » Tricolorum Scarlet, yellow and black Garden Vallota . . . Purpurea (Scar- borough Lily) Scarlet Greenhouse The bulb catalogues proper are published in autumn, and in the September or October chapter I will rifle their contents and make selections. The fruit and tree and shrub catalogues also appear in autumn. Catalogues of hardy plants, of bedding plants, and of greenhouse plants generally, are published in spring as a 20 THE OPENING YEAR rule. I will consider them in due course. All classes Jan. of plants will then be dealt with at the appropriate seasons. Before parting from the seed catalogues, I should like to throw out the hint that those who like to leave the choice of varieties to the dealer, merely telling him the size of the garden, and inviting a quota- tion for one of his special " collections," will get more seeds for a given sum than by ordering the different kinds individually. This applies equally to vegetables and flowers. JANUARY— First and Second Weeks Jan. I said at the opening of the present chapter that January is in the main a month of preparation. There are rarely any outdoor flowers in the first half of the month, although, if the winter be mild, there may be a few stray blossoms on the coloured primroses, and an early Iris or two may be open. In frames both Violets and Irises may be in flower, but it will depend upon the weather. The winter Jasmine will have seized any opportunity of a mild spell to open her pretty primrose blossoms, and the sweet, white, winter Honeysuckle (Lonicera Fragrantissima), may be out. There will be plenty of flowers in the heated green- house or conservatory, resulting from operations in summer and autumn, which will be described at the right time. Fruit trees are dormant, as are trees and shrubs, with one or two exceptions. Hardy winter vegetables are in use, and others are being forced. Let us take the different sections separately. Jan. I-I5 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Flowers There is work to be done among greenhouse plants, and also in raising plants for later use in the flower garden. Begonias {tuberous). — There are few more beautiful late-flowering garden plants than the tuberous Begonia, and it will bloom the same year if seeds are sown in January in a warm house, and the plants handled properly afterwards. Seed of both single and double strains can be bought, and it is wise to buy it in mixture — I do not mean singles and doubles mixed, but mixed varieties of each section. One gets a lovely display of brilliant flowers if the strain is good. Seedling Begonias always progress slowly towards the flowering stage, because before we can get stem and leaves we must get the tuber, and that must have time to form and grow. It is for this reason that I advocate January sowing. Sowing Small Seeds. — Seed of tuberous Begonias, as of some other plants, such as herbaceous Calceolarias, which I shall have occa- sion to refer to later, is very small indeed, and needs to be handled with care, or it will be irre- trievably scattered. The packets of small-seeded plants should be left un- opened until the recep- tacles for them are ready, so that the risk of the seed The surface soil should be It is a good plan Fig Sowing Small Seeds in a Box OR Pan, a. Drainage, b. Compost. c. Surface cf soil made fine and level for seeds. being lost is minimised. very fine, moist, and perfectly level THE OPENING YEAR to cover it with a film of damp silver sand, as this shows up coloured seeds even if very small, and acts as a safe- guard against thick sowing; moreover, it prevents the seed being sown unevenly. It is not necessary to cover the seed, either with sand or soil, but a few flakes of clean, fresh, damp moss may be laid over it, provided the raiser can trust himself to recollect the necessity for removing them as soon as the young shoots begin to appear. A square of glass shaded with brown paper (which may give place to a piece of white paper when germination has taken place) should be placed over the receptacle. Care of Seedlings. — Tiny seedlings of choice plants require constant attention, but they are no more likely to die than young Cab- bages if the grower will only learn correct water- ' ing and ventilation. He must see that the soil does not get quite dry, and remain so for several hours; on the other hand, he must not flood the plants with water at re- gular intervals. Water- ing will not be wanted more than once a day in winter, if that, and it is very little trouble to lower the seed pan into a vessel of lukewarm water, and hold it there, immersed to the level of the seedlings within, until the water has per- colated through and moistened the surface. When the pot is withdrawn it should be held over the tub until the 23 Jan. 1-15 Fig. 2.— Watering Seedlings by Immersion. a. Pan containing seedlings held down in a pail of water, b. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. water has run back again. Air is essential, but cold I~I5 draughts are bad. " Propagators " (close, heated boxes or pits) are very good for starting plants, but are not good for growing them, because of the want of air. Seedlings raised in propagators should be removed early, and put on an airy stage or shelf near the glass. Gloxinias from Seed. — Like Begonias, these beautiful plants have to form tubers before they can develop, and it is therefore wise to sow a packet of seed early in January. They are among the most beautiful of all small, low-growing plants for greenhouses and conser- Propagator. a. a. Hot-water pipes. b. Cocoa-nut fibre for plunging pots containing cuttings (c) in. This kind of propagator can be used separately with a lighted lamp under it, when the propagator rests on a vessel of water. Fig. 4.— Starting Gloxinia Tubers. a. Soil in a box. b. Tubers partially buried in the soil. c. A tuber starting to grow. vatories, and when once a stock of tubers has been secured, a succession of bloom can be had by the simple device of starting the tubers in batches. 24 fttoTE^TF amusf The Star Cineraria (stellata), a free-flowering section, very brilliant in colour, and useful for winter bloom. THE OPENING YEAR Gloxinias from Tubers. — Those who already have Jan. tubers, or who prefer to buy them in order to get flowers ^~^5 earher than it is possible to have them from seed, may start a few now if they want a batch of plants in bloom in spring. But a warm house is necessary, as an un- heated greenhouse might be frosted over at this time of year. The grower ought to have a minimum temperature of 55°. Pots from six to seven inches across, top inside measurement, will be suitable. The soil may consist of three parts loam, one part leaf soil, and about a twelfth of coarse sand. Procuring Potting Soil, — I advise all growers of pot plants to lay in a store of suitable soil at the outset of their operations. It is a good plan to buy it in winter, because it can be carted in when the ground is hard with frost. Every trade florist knows what potting loam is, because he uses it himself, and he will generally supply it to customers. An amateur can prepare it himself by buying turves, but he cannot use the latter at once, because the grass is fresh. He must stack the turves in a heap and leave them for several months — preferably a whole year, as then the grass decays thoroughly ; moreover, any eelworms and wireworms which may be ensconced in the roots of the grass when it is taken up are starved out. A temporary supply of leaf mould can also be got from the florist, and a future supply prepared at home by getting some leaves in the autumn, treading them into a mass in a spare corner, and leaving them several months to decay. Any local builder will supply coarse, washed sand, but silver sand has generally to be got from the florist. Star Cinerarias. — The amateur who sowed seed in late spring of the previous year will now see them advancing into bloom. One realises how valuable 25 Jan. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Cinerarias are when one sees a well-grown batch of them flowering in a public garden, such as Kew, on a winter day. Especially does one admire the Star Cineraria, with its graceful habit and abundance of bright flowers. My present hint is concerned with the treat- ment of developed plants. I will deal with sowing at the proper time. In the first place, it should be re- membered that a high, moist temperature is bad. The plants enjoy a cool, rather dry air. Note the buoyant, bracing, spicy atmosphere of the beautiful " flowering house " in Kew Gardens, and you will appreciate my point. A temperature of 40° to 45° is quite warm enough. The plants should only be watered when the soil becomes nearly dry, but it must not be allowed to get, and remain, quite dry. A dose of liquid manure may be given once a week. Florists sell tins of fertiliser, a pinch of which may be sown on the surface and watered in. Blue Lobelias. — There are still plenty of people left in the world who use Fig. s.— Cuttings FROM Stock Plants ^ , ,. OF Blue Lobelia. blue Lobelias for borders a. Old plant in pot. Jq i. A good cutting prepared by removing the two lowest leaves (see dark lines), although c. An unsuitable cutting, bearing flowers. , 1 >> r 1 • 1 •. ^ ^ border, of which it formed a part, no longer enjoys its former favour. Those who have old Lobelia plants in autumn generally pot them, put them on a shelf in the greenhouse, and 26 the flower garden, the "ribbon %r:. ■m\y? .:5%>t l^,a^' THE OPENING YEAR make the young shoots into cuttings when they start Jan. growing in late winter. Others who have no "stock" ^~^5 plants may sow seed now, and they will then get strong flowering plants by June. Bulbs in Pots. — The common and good plan of plung- ing pots of bulbs in coarse cocoa-nut fibre refuse or ashes in autumn has one drawback with amateurs. It is often a case of "out of sight, out of mind." The plants are forgotten, and they push growth into the fibre — growth which is weak and blanched. Bulbs potted in November should be examined in December and January, and removed from the fibre when they have made an inch of growth. Fruit Although fruit trees may be planted theoretically at any time from November to March inclusive, January is rarely a good month for planting. The soil is cold, and perhaps " messy." But pruning may be done, and it is often convenient to do this when the ground is hard with frost, as the soil is not trodden up. The fear that injury may accrue from pruning in frosty weather is baseless. If early fruit is wanted under glass, preparations may be made this month. Pruning. — The correct pruning of the different kinds of fruit trees is a matter of considerable moment to fruit growers. Fruit trees may be divided into two classes : (i) those which bear on old wood or spurs : (2) those which bear on young wood. Under (i) we have Apples, Apricots, nearly all Cherries, Red and White Currants, Gooseberries, Nuts, Pears, and Plums. Under (2) we have Morello Cherries, Black Currants, Peaches, and Nectarines. Even a beginner in fruit-growing can dis- 27 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. tinguish between old and young wood. Apart from the ^"^5 fact that the latter grows at the ends or from the sides of the former, it is paler in colour. A " spur " is also easily distinguished on Apples and Pears. It consists of a short, knotty growth, with two or more buds on a mature branch. There is no other growth in any way resembling a spur on either Apples or Pears. The spur might be confused on an Apricot, Cherry, or Plum, because these fruits often develop shoots that are neither "spurs" proper nor "shoots "proper. They are from three to six inches long, and ter- minate in a plump bud. ^^^ Gardeners call them " stubs." They do not need any pruning. In addition to learning the differentkindsof growth, beginners should learn to distinguish between a. Tree unpruned. b. Tree pruned. gj^Q^^ ^^^jg ^^^ £j.yj^ buds on the dormant tree, by which I mean the buds which develop stem and leaves when they start growing in spring, and those that produce blossoms. This is an easy matter, as the shoot buds of nearly all fruit trees are thin and pointed, and the fruit buds plump and rounded at the tips. An amateur who is familiar with the char- acteristic bud can prune much better than one who is not. Pruning Apples. — Those who plant Apples should buy quite young trees, and be satisfied if they get fruit 28 Fig. 6.— Pruning a Nurseryman's Maiden Apple. THE OPENING YEAR eighteen months after planting. They should order Jan. three-year-old trees (the dealer has pruned these as ^'^5 maidens and two-year-olds), and prune back the branches, some to over half their length (Fig. 8). If they plant in autumn, they should do this pruning back at once. If they plant in spring they should do it when the young leaves are un- folding at the tips. The object of the cutting back is to cause basal buds to break into growth, and form new branches. If it were not done, the fresh shoots ^ „ ., ' Fig. 7.— Pruning a Nursery- would come from the tips of the man's two -year -Old orimnal branches, and would pro- „ . . / t5 ' ^ a. Points of pruning. bably be weak and "whippy," so 6. Buds suitable for making that the tree had a top-heavy look. ^^ '"^^ As a result of the pruning the trees will be likely to push several sturdy branches in the summer after they were planted, in addition to forming fruit buds at the base of the original branches. In the winter a second pruning may be done, but it need not be so severe as the first ; in fact, it will suffice if the branches are shortened to half their length. In after years no further cutting back is likely to be needed, because the trees will be well furnished with sufficient strong branches. It must be remembered that cutting back always tends to multiply branches, and it is possible to extend this unduly, with the result that the tree is all wood and no fruit. From its fifth year onward the winter pruning of Apple trees should consist mainly in thinning out shoots where they are getting too thick, and cutting back the 29 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK S-fr ~-^==^. Fig. 8.— Shortening a Three- Year-Old Apple. c. Branches to be cut hard back. d. All ends of branches to be cut off at the dark lines. summer side shoots to near the main branches. The grower should aim at a well-furnished, but uncrowded, tree. If his trees have from ten to fifteen main branches that stand quite clear of each other, are free from tangled shoots, and the wood is not too gross, they are sure to bear. The pruner should always cut as close to a bud as possible without undermining it, and when he is pruning for extension — that is, cutting back young ^ v'V A.t f r y _c trees — he should cut to a shoot bud on the outside l-VX?^l A\/i jf./€i of the branch in order that the resulting branch may grow outward instead of inward. Any shoot that grows towards the centre of the tree, and crosses its neighbours, should be cut clean out. The fruiting of Apple trees is greatly encouraged Fig. q.-Winter pruning apples. *^ •' . ,• , T Right side of Apple tree (a) pruned. by summer prunmg, WniCn 1 Left side of Apple tree {d) not pruned. .,, J I -ii • -A ^^^^ c. Leading shoots shortened. Will deal With m its proper ^. side brinches pruned. month. Root pruning is called for in some cases, but it is 30 THE OPENING YEAR only appropriate when the tree throws a great deal of summer wood, and does not bloom. These conditions generally go together. If the side shoots of a tree push more than two and a half feet long in one season, there is likely to be a paucity of fruit buds, and root pruning Jan. 1-15 Fig. 10. — Root Pruning. a. Surface of soil, d. Taproot cut off. c. Large fibreless roots cut off. d. Fibrous roots not cut. e. The kind of fibrous roots not to be cut. /. The kind of large root to be cut. ^. The taproot. will probably do good. It consists in baring the roots in winter, and cutting through some of them ; or, in the case of a young tree, taking it right out of the ground, pruning the strong roots, and replantnig it. 31 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. Pruning Apricots. — The Apricot is not much grown ^"^5 in these days, because people who have wall space prefer to use it for cordon Apples and Pears, the plant- ing of which I shall recommend in November. Apricots are generally grown as fan-shaped trees, like Peaches. A number of main branches is secured by cutting back young trees as advised for Apples, and these are then fastened to the wall with nails and shreds. Such side shoots as there may be room for are tied in between, but the majority are summer pruned. The winter pruning consists in cutting back the superfluous side shoots. Priming Cherries. — It is a rule with growers of Fig, II.— First Shortening of Peach or Cherry to form a Fan. a. Point of shortening the maiden tree. b. The direction of the new shoots. Cherries to prune them as little as possible. Practical fruit men say : " Cherries don't like the knife." This is true. Fortunately Cherries do not require much pruning if the trees are well shortened when first planted. In this respect they may be treated just like Apples ; in fact, when Cherries are young they have to 32 THE OPENING YEAR be pruned whether they Hke it or not, to develop and shape the trees. Cherries are often grown fan-shaped, Jan. 1-15 Fig. 12.— The Second Shortening of Peach OR Cherry. Prune as denoted by the dark cross lines. and this means early shortening. As a rule, the trees assume a naturally open and spreading habit when they Fig. 13. — The Third Shortening of a Peach or Cherry. a. Where the branches were cut off the second year. b. The resultant new shoots, which must only he thinned out to prevent overcrowding. have been shortened two or three times while young, and, given this, fruitfulness will follow with very little 33 c Jan. 1-15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK annual pruning. Should the trees get thick they must be thinned, and this may be done when they are in full leaf. Morello Cherries, which bear their fruit on young wood, need no pruning other than thinning the shoots if very thick. The less they are cut the better. Pruning Currants. — Young Currants are developed by cutting back, just as other fruit trees are. If by these means the pruner can secure a bush with eight or nine Fig. 14.— Pruning Red Currant. a. Side shoots to be cut off at the dark lines. h. Leading shoot to be shortened. c. Shoots cut back. d. A separate leading shoot, e. The side shoots shortened. branches nearly a foot apart, the only pruning he need do in the case of Red and White Currants is to cut back the young side shoots to their base, and this may be done in January. The fruit will come on the old, mature branches. With Black Currants the reverse holds, as the 34 THE OPENING YEAR best fruit is borne on the young wood — that is, the Jan. I 15 Fig. 15.— Pruning Black Currant. a. Old branches to be cut off. b. Young ones to be kept. c. A separate young branch ; the kind to retain. fruit of one year is borne on the wood made the previous year. Pruning Gooseberries. — Although January is a good month for pruning Gooseberries so far as the bushes are concerned, birds have to be considered. The more a Gooseberry bush is pruned, the easier it is for the birds to get access to the buds on the shoots left, and birds love to get into the bushes and pick the buds out. The earlier the pruning is done, the more time the birds have to strip the shoots. Growers find it wise to limewash their Gooseberries in winter, run threads about the bushes from branch to branch, and defer the pruning till the buds begin to swell. 35 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Young Gooseberry bushes are formed by cutting about three times in successive years, as in the case of other trees. The annual pruning of developed bushes concerns itself princi- pally with the summer shoots, as the Goose- berry is mainly a spur bearer. These shoots are best dealt with by summer pruning, fol- lowed by late winter or spring pruning. Whether or not the shoots have been half- pruned in summer, they should be reduced to short stumps in winter, as it is difficult and painful to gather the fruit from Gooseberry bushes which are full of young shoots. Pruning Peaches and Nectarines. — This is partly sum- mer and partly winter or spring work, but the system is reversed, the summer pruning dealing with the old shoots which have borne fruit (these are cut quite out), and the winter or spring pruning with disbudding the young shoots which are to fruit in the ensuing summer. It will be gathered from this that the Peach is not a spur bearer, but a young wood fruiter. The trees are generally trained fan-shape for tying to walls or wire trellises. They are, in a word, flat, not bush trees. 36 ir^ Fig. 16.— Pruning Gooseberry. a. Branches to be cut off. b. Branches to be cut out of the centre. c. If cut here, overcrowding would occur. d. How to prune so that a bud e. Points upward, and the new shoot grows denoted by the dotted line. THE OPENING YEAR They need shortening back three times from the Jan. " maiden " tree, and this is generally done by the ^"^5 nurseryman, who sells the tree ready trained. The price is relatively high, it is true ; but as Peaches re- quire skilful handling, it is worth while for amateurs to buy them in a fairly advanced stage. They need then only shorten the branches by one-third after planting. The side shoots between the main branches are the fruit bearers. They will themselves push shoots as well as expand flowers either in winter or spring, and these shoots must be reduced to two, one at the base and one at the tip, by what is called *' disbudding " — that is, picking them out with finger and thumb directly they commence to grow. The shoot at the base will grow to a length of eighteen inches or so (if much more than this the tree should be lifted and root pruned the follow- ing winter) during the summer, and may be tied in to fruit the following year. The shoot left at the tip of the current bearing growth is only retained in order to maintain a free flow of sap, and need not be allowed to expand more than a couple of leaves, when the tip may be pinched off. By this simple routine, which any amateur can learn by a season's observation and experience, a constant supply of fruiting shoots is maintained in Peaches and Nectarines year after year. Pruning Pears. — The Pear bears its fruit on spurs, which mature slowly but steadily. Before the days of the Quince stock for Pears, the spurs developed very slowly, hence the old line : " Plant Pears, plant for your heirs." This is no longer apposite. Nurserymen graft Pears on to the Quince stock, and then send them out to 37 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. customers in a fair way for bearing. As a matter of ^"^5 fact, fruit generally comes the second or third year after planting, and thereafter pretty regularly. The object of the grower should be to get a bush with from ten to fifteen main branches quite clear of each other, and growing outward, just as in the case of Apples. Such trees are sure to form fruit spurs quickly unless rich soil encourages over-vigorous growth, in which case root pruning will be needed. When the trees have developed, the annual pruning will consist of pruning back the side shoots in winter, leaving the fruit buds at the base. These fruit buds come the quicker if summer pruning is practised (see June and July chapters). Pruning Plums and Damsons. — These fruits bear on the mature wood, but not wholly on spurs. After the first exuberance of youth is spent (and if considerable it can be curbed by root pruning), the trees do not make a great deal of coarse annual growth. They form spurs and stubs, on which they bear. They also form fruit buds along the mature shoots, like Cherries and some Apples. Such side shoots as exist are generally short, and may be cut close back in winter. Use of Tree Prunings. — The shoots cut out of fruit trees in winter are best burned, because the eggs of destructive caterpillars are sometimes attached to them ; but if it is desired to graft some trees in spring, a few of the best shoots may be tied into a bundle and laid in the soil in a shady place, or in a cool outhouse, until spring (see Chapter III.). Early Indoor Grapes. — In those gardens where Vines are forced so as to yield early supplies of Grapes, it will soon be necessary to start the canes into growth by maintaining a temperature of not less than 50°, and 38 Marie Louise, one of the best-flavoured of all Pears, BUT NOT HAKDY ENOUGH FOR THE OPEN IN EXPOSED PLACES, AND SHOULD THEREFORE BE GROWN ON A WALL THE OPENING YEAR securing a moist atmosphere by keeping the house Jan. closed, except for an hour or two on sunny mornings, I~I5 and damping the walls and floors. Warmth and moisture encourage the bursting of the buds. Amateurs' Vines. — Amateurs who have only one house of Vines, and who are unable to give constant skilled attention, should not attempt this early forcing, but should let the plants rest until spring. The work for them at this period of the year is to prune and clean the Vines, if this work was not done in the autumn. The pruning consists of shortening the side shoots (termed "laterals") which bore fruit the previous summer to their base, where there should be one or two plump buds. There is thus nothing left except the main rods or canes, with the buds, which will give the current year's fruiting canes in due course. If there has been any mealy bug (a noisome white insect, which gathers in clusters on the Vines, and even spreads to the Grapes, rendering them filthy), the rods should be scrubbed with a paraffin-oil and soft-soap mixture, which may be pre- pared by boiling a pound of soft soap in a quart of water, stirring in half a pint of paraffin oil, and working the whole up with a syringe in five gallons of water. Vegetables Little, if any, work other than preparing soil, and manuring, is likely to be possible out of doors, but vegetables can be forced under glass. Early Asparagus. — Asparagus is not often forced in small places, but forcing is quite feasible for those gardeners who have a range of pits or deep frames. If the structure be heated by hot-water pipes, the only thing that need be done is to put in about a foot of manure, 39 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. trample it down, and surface it with eight or ten inches I~I5 of soil, in which to imbed the roots. If there are no pipes, double the depth of manure will be necessary. It should be forked about two or three times before it is put in the frame. Asparagus " roots " (" clump " would be a better word than " root," inasmuch as roots form only a part of the forcing mass, but custom rules us) are con- glomerations of soil, fleshy roots, and central " crown." The latter is the thickening above the roots from which the shoots spring. A good forcing "root" should be not less than three years old, or six inches across. If the soil is moistened with warm water when it gets dry, and a temperature of from 50° to 60° is maintained, sturdy shoots will soon appear. Forcing Seakale. — Seakale is totally different from Fig. 17.— Forcing Seakale. 4. Roots in bed of soil. b. Growing. c. As first planted for forcing. d. Hot-water pipes. e. Stage on which mure Seakale roots may be forced. /. Where to cut off the heads when the new growth is fit for use. Rhubarb. The forcing part is merely a single fleshy stem 40 THE OPENING YEAR seven to ten inches long and one to three inches thick. Jan. Such stems can be grown in far less time than large ^"^5 roots of Asparagus — in fact, they can be produced in eight months if pieces about half an inch thick, and five inches or more long, are planted in rich soil in spring. It often surprises me that amateurs with small gardens stuff their limited space with coarse, strong-smelling vegetables like Brussels Sprouts, which any greengrocer will supply for a copper or two a pound, when they could grow so delicious a vegetable as Seakale. The roots can be forced in a frame or pit just the same as Asparagus, or a few may be put in a box, in moist soil» and stood in any warm, dark place. French or Dzvarf Kidney Beans, — Among the several advantages which owners of heated fruit houses enjoy over their friends who merely own cold structures, is that of being able to push on useful extraneous crops. Thus, a person who forces early Grapes or Peaches by warming a house in January may also get a few early dwarf Kidney Beans, by sowing seeds in fairly large pots (7-inch or 8-inch) at the same time. The seeds may be two inches apart, and the same in depth. One thing to be very careful about is watering. The plants must be kept growing by using good soil and keeping it moist. If they grow feebly in poor, dry soil, a tiny pest called red spider may attack them, and should this get on to the Beans it may find its way from them to the Vines or Peaches. If it does, the grower will rue the day. It causes the leaves to become thin and rusty. JANUARY— Third and Fourth Weeks The weather conditions are not likely to change much in the two sections of the month — or rather, they 41 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. are not likely to depart very much from a certain order 16-31 of changes. There will be some frost, probably, and some rain — perhaps a spell of snow or sleet. There is hardly likely to be much settled fine weather of the kind that the gardener can rely upon for outdoor sowing. But occasionally we get a period of dry weather in the latter half of the month, during which the soil becomes crumbly. Should that happen, gardening may go on. The true gardener is always on the watch for opportu- nities. He is as one who is engaged in constant warfare with a wily enemy — the clerk of the weather. The latter has a quite Puckish vein of humour. He loves to take you by surprise w^ith a sudden burst of fine weather, watch gleefully while the fact that it really is fine is slowly dawning upon you ; and then, just when you fully awaken, and sally forth for action, to hurl a snow- storm at you. There is nothing much worse than a snowstorm in a garden. You cannot dig, even if the ground is soft, because the snow chills the soil for a long time if turned in. You cannot plant trees. You cannot sow seeds. You cannot wheel manure. You cannot lay turf. And a garden is not an ideal place for tobogganing, because there are rockeries, and Cucumber frames, and other impedimenta. One of the reasons for my profound belief in gardening is that this incessant weather warfare makes people alert, and quick to seize opportunities. Professional gardeners would make grand scouts with a little technical training, because they have the root matter in them — foresight, watchfulness, powers of observation, and promptness of action. A fine spell in January is often a great boon to the gardener. If it does no more, it enables him to get 42 THE OPENING YEAR ground ready, alike for sowing and planting. Let us see how he can do this. Improving and Preparing Soil. — It is almost always found that when a sunny spell follows frost, the soil, erstwhile in stiff lumps, crumbles on being moved. A crumbly soil is a thousand times better than a lumpy one. It is amazing how quickly some soils become crumbly. When the frost leaves the ground, the soil appears to be a mass of grease and putty which will remain messy until the end of time. In forty-eight hours, after sunshine, it may be dry enough to fall readily into small particles. All soils are not alike in ^^ d this; some need more time than others, and it is the business of the gardener to find out how his own soil behaves under given conditions of weather. Stiff, clay soil will often crumble in January or February after frost, although, should the weather be wet and the sky dull throughout those months, March may arrive before it is workable. Let every garden lover remember that for flowers, fruit, and vegetables alike, winter working in dry, sunny weather after frost is highly beneficial to the soil. A handy labourer will neatly bastard-trench and manure the soil simultaneously, taking off the top coating to the depth of his spade, breaking up the under layer to an equal depth, and laying on a dressing of manure two or three inches thick before replacing the top layer. He 43 Jan. 16-31 Fig. 18.— Trenching Soil. a. Space from which soil has been taken to place at b. d. Space to be filled with soil from c, e. Lower soil loosened and manured. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. 16-31 will not attempt to reduce the surface to a very fine state at first, but leave it in smallish lumps, for fear of more rain before sowing time, which would make a fine sur- face close and paste-like. Just before sowing is the time to reduce the top layer to fine particles. Garden Paths. — People who are laying out new gardens often find the walks a rather harassing problem. They see gravel paths in most places which they visit, and, lacking experience^ suppose that two or three inches of gravel laid on the soil will make a path. No, the gravel is little more than the ornament; the path itself is formed of two or three layers of rougher material under- neath. At the time of writing these notes, labourers are widening a drive in my garden, and I will describe the method of working. The surface soil lies over chalk, and this is first of all bared by removing all the soil, which is about fifteen inches deep above it. The next step is to lay on six inches or thereabouts of other chalk, which is drawn from a heap made through leveUing a slope for a tennis lawn. I may say here that some roadmakers are averse from the use of chalk as under-ballast, on the ground that, whatever is put above it, the chalk works through, and makes the surface greasy. That is not my experience. I find that if it is well rammed and covered it makes an excellent bottom layer. Above the chalk comes a 4-inch layer of clinkers, the finer parts, or ash, of which are 44 Fig. 19.— Section of Garden Path. a. Main drain. bb. Pipes to conduct water to main drain from catch-pits (c). d. Broken bricks, clinkers, &c. e. Flints. /. Rough gravel. g. Finer surface gravel. THE OPENING YEAR kept at the top as a " binding " material. The clinkers Jan. and ash are rammed, levelled, and rolled. Thirdly, 10-31 there comes a 3-inch layer of flints, which are also rammed and rolled, so that they are well bedded into the ash. Lastly, there is a 2-inch coating of gravel, which is neatly levelled and rolled. A drive made up like this will stand all the strain which is likely to come upon it, and it will last. It will not be naturally weedy, and what weed shows (there is sure to be some) can be easily overcome by a watering with weed-killer in spring, the effects of which will last throughout the summer. Walks that really are walks — i.e. that are only subject to the wear of foot traffic — can be made somewhat cheaper by allowing an inch less of each layer. Drives and walks alike should be made with a suit- able "camber," i.e. a slight fall from centre to outsides, so that water may run off freely. And there should be a grated drain at every few feet to carry the rain down. With a chalky or sandy subsoil, the water will find its own way out quickly ; but if the soil is clay, it is wise to lay horizontal drain pipes in the bed of the walk to carry off the water. It is not everybody who has to make walks and drives on chalk ; but I need only say that if I were situated other than I am, I should still try and find something firm to build my walk on. If the subsoil were naturally loose, I should have it well rammed before putting in the ballast. Flowers Roses. — Those beautiful Roses, Bridesmaid, Catherine Mermet, Ulrich Brunner, Captain Hayward, Mrs. John Laing, and Niphetos will flower delightfully in the warm conservatory in spring if plants are potted now. 45 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. Rosarians have greatly extended the season of their 16-31 favourite flower in the garden by raising a large number of sorts that bloom continuously. But they have not yet got to the point of having Roses in flower in March without the aid of glass. It is a moot point whether we can have Roses too long. Many people would say : "Yes, if getting them early means sticking them into men's buttonholes with a wretched bit of Asparagus or Maidenhair Fern." I suppose it does mean that, but I have not yet been able to work myself into the proper state of disgust at the practice of wearing button- hole flowers. There must be some serious objection to it, or people would not get so angry about it. But really, when I see young Mr. Hosiery make his first task on emerging from the emporium that of buying a button- hole flower, and reflect that a few years ago he would have gone and had a drink instead, I do not feel as strongly tempted as I ought to ask him what he means by it. Do I not know quite well what he means ? And do I not sympathise ? Miss Mantles (who emerges from another door) is undeniably pretty. The nurseryman does not charge very much for pot Roses, unless the varieties are new. The first obligation which the grower is under is the unpleasant one of cutting the plants hard back. The greater part of the plants must go, nothing but stumps with a few buds 46 Fig. 20.— Pruning Pot Rose. a. Branch to be cut away altogether. b. Branches to be cut back to good buds. THE OPENING YEAR on each being left. The plants will soon grow again Jan. from the dormant buds; in fact, they will be full of ^^~3i leaves and in bloom in a few weeks, given a temperature of 50° to 60°. Winter-blooming Carnations, — Winter exhibitions of Carnations are now as well established an institution in London as cattle and motor shows. The winter section, which is really quite distinct from the garden Carnation of the summer, has a Society all to itself, and well deserves it. Think of having such a beautiful flower as the Carnation in mid-winter ! Admirable form, brilliant colour, delicious perfume, and in every month of the year ! My readers must keep up-to-date with the American type, for the flowers have long stems, and are therefore well adapted for arrangement in vases. Here are a few varieties which, at the time of writing, are among the best procurable : Britannia, red, a charming flower for the table, as the colour shows up so well under artificial light ; Enchantress, blush, large, sweet, and of lovely tint ; Winsor, silvery pink ; May Day, pink; Mrs. Burnett, salmon pink; and White Per- fection, white. It may be some time before these are superseded, but a gardening author would no more use terms of finality in connection with varieties of popular flowers than a writer on motoring would in referring to the engines of aeroplanes. Both are in a constant state of development. But the aeroplane engine will never attain the pleasing odour of the Carnation. To get healthy plants and a nice display of winter bloom, the amateur must provide his plants with a light, airy greenhouse, and a temperature of 50° to 60°, the former being the night heat. It may fall a little lower in very severe weather, but no real laxity in the matter of heat is permissible. It is most convenient to grow 47 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. the plants in pots, but I have had very good results from 16-31 making a bed for them on a raised stage in the middle of a greenhouse, and planting them in it. The flower stems were not tied to stakes, as they would be in the case of pot plants, but to thin wires stretched across the bed and attached at the sides. A mixture of soil that suits winter-blooming Car- nations is fresh loam with about a quarter of decayed manure and some sand. Those amateurs who have plants and wish to increase the number may take cut- tings of the young shoots this month, and insert several together round the side of a pot, which should be put into a bottom heat (such as that provided by a bed of moist cocoa-nut fibre refuse over hot-water pipes, or a closed tray of heated water) of about 65°. They will root quickly, and when the little plants begin to grow they can be put separately into small pots, they can be repotted as fast as they fill their receptacles with roots beyond which they need Fig. 21. -Cutting of Winter Carnation. a. Stem cut off below a joint, slit up- wards, and a small stone inserted from which to keep the two parts asunder. b. Basal leaves to be removed. c. Clean growth without a flower stem are m 7-inch, until they not go. A point of culture which must not be overlooked is that of stopping the plants by pinching off the tips. This may be done for the first time when they are growing freely after the first separate potting, and may 48 THE OPENING YEAR be repeated in April, May, or June if any of the shoots Jan. begin to straggle. Its effect is to furnish the plants with 16-31 a sufficient number of compact shoots, all of which will bloom in due course. The plants will be quite safe in a frame, or even stood on ashes out of doors, in summer, but they should be put under glass in September. Solving Sweet Peas. — It is not in the least too early to sow a few pots or boxes of Sweet Peas. A choice may be made from the varieties named in a previous part of the present chapter, but let me here emphasise the desirability of making full use of the beautiful range of pink and rosy varieties which we now have, because they look so well under artificial light. Countess Spencer, Constance Oliver, Chrissie Unwin (but this is nearer cerise than pink or rose), Edna Unwin, Sunproof Crimson, Zarina, and Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes are all charming. The grower might get some 6-inch pots, and put half-a-dozen seeds equidistant in each, covering them \ inch deep. A greenhouse shelf, or a frame, will suit them until April, when they can be planted in the garden. Floivering Plants for Rooms. — One who has a warm greenhouse need never be without a few pots or vases of plants in bloom that can be drafted into rooms. Even without glass, flowers can be had at most seasons by growing bulbs in bowls of peat-moss fibre, but January flowering is doubtful. Roman and other early Hyacinths, early Tulips, various Narcissi, Azaleas, and Freesias can be pushed on in a warm greenhouse, and transferred to the rooms when they approach the flower- ing stage. The little Freesia is the least conspicuous of the flowers I have named, but many will like it the best on account of its delicious odour. 49 D THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. A Splendid Arum Lily. — All lovers of the white Arum 1^-31 Lily, which botanists (who really ought to set a better example) have given several names to, notably Calla aethiopica, Richardia aetJiiopica, and Richardia africana — all lovers of this beautiful plant may not be aware that there is a form vastly superior to the ordinary in profusion and continuity of flowering, although a little smaller. It is called the Godfrey, after a florist in charming Devon, who introduced it. There is no difficulty in having the Godfrey Arum Lily in bloom in January, and in fact the whole of the winter, if there is a warm greenhouse available. The puzzle would be to stop it flowering. It is as full of vigour as a Dorothy Perkins Rose is in summer. It simply riots in growth. As fast as one shoot develops, another springs up from the base. And flowers follow each other as fast as leaves. The reader who does not possess this valuable plant may buy it now. With a temperature of 50° to 60° it will soon be in bloom. Young Chrysanthemums. — It seems a little hard to have to think about November in January, but gardeners are not as ordinary people. There are Chrysanthemum growers so enthusiastic that if they could have their way they would have every month November, so that they could always have their favourites with them. Murk, fog, drizzle, sleet — what are these to people who have the soul of artists ? Do you see folk with rapt faces surging their way through the London streets in autumn ? They are not, as you may have hastily surmised, speculators who have just heard good news at their broker's, but Chrysanthemum lovers on their way to a show, or to one of the displays in the public parks. Fog ! Drizzle ! They know nought of these. They live in a world as sunny as old Japan, whence the 50 THE OPENING YEAR Chrysanthemum came ever so many years ago. Perhaps Jan. in November, probably in December, certainly not later 16-31 than January, they will strike cuttings for the next display. These cuttings should be short and thick, and should be pressed firmly into sandy soil in small pots. If they can be kept under a cloche, or in a pro- pagating box, they will root the quicker. Young plants that have grown from cut- tings put in earlier should be exposed to air in January, and encouraged to grow with warmth, ventilation, and watering. When the cutting pots are filled with roots (and one can always judge of this by noting b. Basal leaves to be cut off. , ,, , , , c. Clean growth without flower buds. whether roots protrude from the drainage hole or not) the plants should be transferred to larger ones. New Lawns. — Makers of lawns should never hesitate between turves and seeds so long as they can get the former free from weeds. When you have laid your turves the lawn is made — that is, if the soil has been properly levelled, and the turf is well beaten. And you can lay turves, in most districts, in eight months of the year. The four excluded are May, June, July, and August. Even these are not tabu if there is sufficient water available. The ground men at Lord's, the Oval, and that most delightful of all cricketing centres, the St. Lawrence ground at Canterbury, do not stand on the order of laying turves, They 51 LiBRAFlY. DiDiaion of Horticulture, Fig. 22. — Cutting of Chrysanthemum. a. Where the stem should be severed. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. are reclaiming damaged pitches all the summer 16-31 through. To placate the seedsmen, I am very willing to admit that seeds make nice lawns under particular circumstances, but you cannot sow seed over as long a period as you can lay turves, and you have to be very thorough in two things — to clean the ground, and to keep off birds. With all your care the result may not be satisfactory if bad weather follows the sowing. Soil chilled by cold, sleety rains in spring is not favourable to the germination of grass seeds; but it is a fact worth noting that weed seeds will grow, and they get a start of the grass which the latter is long in catching up, to say nothing of the labour of weeding. The normal seasons for sowing grass seeds are (i) mid-March to mid-May ; (2) September. So far as the first is concerned, experience teaches me that in districts where cold springs prevail May is quite early enough. The longer the seed lies in the ground ungerminated, the more prolonged is the battle with the birds, which love grass seeds. But May sowing does not give much chance of a thick, firm sward the same year. Three- quarters of a pound of seed per square rod is a fair allowance. A playing lawn, whether for tennis, croquet, or Bad- minton (but particularly for tennis, which is a more forceful game than either of the others), ought, I think, to be made of turves. The soil, if poor, needs to be dug and manured, but all the same it must be firm, or the grass will sink in places and holes be formed. It takes longer to lay turves than to sow seeds, but the task is not a very long one, provided the turves are carefully cut, so as to be not only of the same size, but of the same thickness. If they are not of the same size 52 THE OPENING YEAR there is a great deal of dovetailing to do ; if not of the same thickness, of packing soil under the thin spots. Neither ought to be necessary. Given firm, level soil and well-cut turves, lawn-making is nearly as easy as dealing Bridge hands. I say " nearly," because I recall that in dealing Bridge hands one does not have to wield a heavy " beater " (although one yearns for this to be Jan. 16-31 SMMM^MMMMIM&n Fig. 23.— Laying Turf. a. New turves laid down. d. A piece of turf ready cut for laying. c. How to roll turves to prevent damage when carrying them. d. Ground bevelled for new turves. e, path. the privilege of harassed players when a forgetful partner fails to return a lead), whereas in laying turf the use of a beater is indispensable. It is a heavy wooden plate or flat block mounted on a curved handle. It is swung up, and allowed to drop with a thud on turf after turf, compressing all equally. When the turf is all down and the beater has done its work, the lawn- 53 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. maker (who has by this time got his muscles both strong ^^3^ and phant) may make assurance doubly sure by spending an hour or two on the lawn with the garden roller. Fruit. Although, as mentioned in the first section of the present chapter, January is often not a good month for planting fruit trees, there is no reason why plans and preparations should not be made for making new fruit gardens, or for arranging the fruit portion of a kitchen garden. Trained Trees. — For example, it may be proposed to plant fan, cordon, or espalier trees alongside the paths in a part of the vegetable garden. How are they to be supported ? Bush trees will support themselves, stan- dards only require a stake, but fiat trees must have a wall, a fence, or some sort of framework on which to lean. It may be agreed to provide an erection of poles and wire. Good ; and in this case why not erect it in this, the quiet season, when labour is more readily available than in spring? Not only would I do this, but I would have the ground got ready directly the framework was complete, so that when March came there would be nothing to do but to put in the trees. It may be urged that self-supporting bush trees are better than flat ones — that they will probably give more fruit, and are more economical to manage. They are certainly more cheaply "run," but taking the cordon as the typical trained flat tree, it has one great advantage over the bush tree for small gardens in that it takes up so much less room. I think that every country garden, however small, should have its " Cabbage patch," only, instead of giving 54 THE OPENING YEAR it up to Cabbages, if very small, I would devote it to Jan. choice early Potatoes, Asparagus, Seakale, Kidney Beans, 16-31 and Marrowfat Peas, buying my Cabbages from a cot- tager or allotment holder who had a surplus. I can understand an allottee of the working classes growing Cabbages, but I cannot imagine an amateur giving up the precious space of a small garden to them when he can buy them for a penny each. Well, when the Cabbage patch which is to grow no Cabbages is being planned, I think it is an excellent idea to arrange for running a wire framework round it (leaving openings at the corners to permit of free access to the vegetable part) whereon to grow fruit trees. They will not interfere with the vegetables, and their crop will be quite as much enjoyed. Ironmongers supply metal supports suitable for straining the wires on, but those who are merely tenants on short leases may hardly think it worth while to go to more expense than is entailed by putting in a few stout poles. It is also possible to economise in wire without anything very serious happening. In the ordinary way the wires would be fixed about a foot apart, and when one glances at a typical fruit framework illustrated in an ironmonger's catalogue, one sees that ten or twelve lengths of wire are shown as close as eight inches apart. Can it be that the ironmonger wants to sell as much wire as possible that he does this thing ? One does not want the wires so close even with trees trained horizontally, as a foot will do ; and when it comes to cordon Apples and Pears there is no advantage whatever in having more than three wires, say one a yard from the ground, a second eighteen inches above it, and a third eighteen inches above the second. This gives a total height of six feet, but by planting the trees at an angle of 45° they 55 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. have about another foot run, and seven feet will do very ^""3^ well, although another eighteen inches would be an advantage in rich soil. With less wire we can do with few supports, because there is not so great a weight of metal, and so we reduce the cost in both directions. Some readers may be glad to have an idea of the cost of metal supports. First of all, two straining posts are required for each complete length. Strainers six feet high, and galvanised, may be expected to cost from sixteen to eighteen shil- lings each. Intermedi- ate galvanised standards with double pronged feet, the same height, will probably cost be- tween three and four shillings each. Raidis- FiG. 24.— Espalier (Wire) for Training seurs for tightening up OTHER THAN CORDON TREES. +1 ^ „,:..^ „,;n ., ^+ U^ <.. The end post. ^. Intermediate posts. ^^6 Wire Will nOt be c. Angle iron stay rod. dear at four shillings 3. d. Flat iron plate at base of post. ^ e. A similar one at base of stay. The iron doZCn, Or the keyS for plates keep the posts firm. • j • x r Winding at fourpence each. There only remains the cost of the wire, and No. 13 gauge galvanised wire will cost about two shillings per hundred yards. But 7-ply strand wire is preferable, and if only three or four lengths are being used, it will be worth while to go to the little extra cost for it. It is sold by the hundredweight, and the length varies with the gauge ; No. 6 gauge, 481 yards to the hundredweight, will cost about a guinea. If wooden supports are being used instead of metal ones, raidisseurs and key will not be needed, but merely staples, and these only cost about sevenpence per 56 THE OPENING YEAR hundred. The ironmonger will perhaps lend a tool for Jan. tightening up the wire on the end posts, which should IO-31 not only be deeply imbedded, but also butted, in order to stand the strain. The drawback to wooden supports is their compara- tively short life, but this can be considerably prolonged by thoroughly charring the whole of the part which is underground, or by pickling it in creosote. The intermediate poles may be much lighter than the end ones, but they should be well driven down, as it is desirable to have them fairly steady, especially if there is a considerable length of framework. This matter of support can, I repeat, be attended to in January, and the soil dug and manured, so that there may be nothing in the way of speedy planting when the time for it arrives. Vegetables The tendency is to empty rather than fill the kitchen garden throughout this month, for the supply of winter greens is steadily reduced, the Celery rows become shorter, and Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb are lifted and carried indoors for forcing. But a building-up process is going on all the same, both in the direction of preparing ground (see first section of the present chapter), and in sowing various things under glass for planting out later on. Forcing Rhubarb. — Rhubarb may be forced just as easily as Asparagus and Seakale, which have already been touched upon in this chapter ; but it needs a little more headroom, and consequently an ordinary frame is hardly suitable. A deep frame or pit would do, but Rhubarb can be forced almost anywhere if a temperature of 50° to 60° can be maintained, and the bed kept moist. As 57 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. an example, one of the nicest crops that I ever had was 1^31 grown on a bench in a potting shed through which a hot-water pipe ran. The bench was covered with slates, and the roots were packed in soil upon them. The only real danger in such circumstances is that of the soil getting dry, and this matter needs careful watching. It is a good plan to use tepid water. At the worst, a few roots of Rhubarb can be forced out of doors by putting an old basket or box over the stools, and covering it with manure fresh from the stable. A good way of getting some very fine Rhubarb fairly early (although not so early as under glass or with manure), is to get an empty barrel of a cheap kind, take out the bottom, and stand it over one of the stools when growth begins in spring. The stems grow up strongly in the barrels. This is a favourite plan with cottagers. Early Summer Cauliflowers. — The Cauliflower is the sweetest of all the Greens, and it is also, I think, the most fastidious. Any way, people come to grief with it who might be expected, from their general experience of vegetables, to succeed. The fact is, they treat it in a Cabbagy sort of way because it is a relative of the Cabbage — sow it anyhow and anywhere, let it get scraggy before they plant it out, and so on. The Cauliflower will not stand that sort of thing. It needs more care. If an amateur wants some tender and delicious young Cauliflowers in early summer, he had better take the plant seriously, just as he would Begonias, and sow in boxes of fine, moist soil under glass now. The seed should be sprinkled very thinly in shallow drills drawn two inches apart from front to back. A shallow heated pit, a warm frame, or a shelf in a heated greenhouse wmII be a suitable place. When the seedlings are growing they will need plenty of air. and the soil must be kept 58 THE OPENING YEAR only just moist enough to prevent the plants from flag- Jan. ging. A soppy soil and a close atmosphere will bowl 16-31 them over like ninepins. Setting out a few inches apart in other boxes when they begin to crowd each other, and planting out-of-doors in rich soil any time that there is fine weather after the middle of April, will do the rest. The First Crop of Cucumbers. — Neither the reputed indigestibility of the Cucumber, nor the triumphant establishment by food specialists of the fact that its nourishing properties are negligible, prevents people from hankering after a home-grown crop. It is all very well to compare its proportion of proteids with that con- tained in a basin of gruel, but just give the average human being a choice between the two, and see what happens. I think most people like to talk about proteids, and to keep as far away from them as possible in practice. But if you want to excel in the playing courts proteid food will certainly be superior to Cucumbers. As a student of food reform, I feel impelled to say this ; but as a horticultural writer I have to take things as they are, and show how Cucumbers can be grown. First, order a packet of seed, and prepare a sufficient number of small pots by putting a crock in the bottom and half- filling them with loamy soil. Lay a seed in the centre of each pot, and provide a temperature of 60° to 65° in the form of moist bottom heat, such as that of a damp cocoa-nut fibre bed over hot-water pipes. When the seedlings grow, take them out of the bed and add a little more soil. But keep the plants in a warm, moist house always. Cucumbers love humid heat — in fact, they are a Turkish bath type of plant. They will probably be ready to plant in about three weeks, and may then be set out about two feet apart in small mounds of lumpy soil made up on slates on the stage of the house. The tips 59 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. should not be pinched out, unless they are to be grown 16-31 in a frame. Early Tomatoes. — If Tomatoes are only wanted for an outdoor crop, there is no need to begin thinking about sowing yet, because the plants cannot go into the garden with safety before the end of May, but it is different if early fruit under glass is desired. A propos of seed, do not raisers over-clean it ? One buys Tomato seed that has been so thoroughly cleansed as to show no trace of the fruit from which it was taken. It looks very nice, and it generally germinates ; but an acquaintance who grows Tomatoes on a large scale for the markets assures me that the plants are not so early and strong as those from seed which has not been so rigorously washed out. His plan is to halve the Tomatoes which are to yield the seed, squeeze the pulp into a sieve, and rub as much as possible through, then to dry the seed by rubbing vigorously with a cloth. The seed should be sown very thinly in a pot, pan, or box, using a light soil con- taining a good deal of leaf mould and sand, and put on a shelf in a warm house, or otherwise near the glass, so that when the seedlings come they may be sturdy. Early Green Peas. — It is not quite orthodox to sow Green Peas in clay soil in January, but I have done it with satisfactory results in an exceptional winter, when the ground crumbled after sunshine. The truth is that the time for the first sowing of Peas is more a question of the weather than anything. Those who have clay soil learn from experience that they have to watch their opportunities, and should one come in January they need not be afraid to embrace it. If there is any refuse soil from pot plants, and old hot-bed manure or wood ashes, about the place, it is a capital plan to mix them, and spread them in the drills before sowing. It is well 60 THE OPENING YEAR to moisten the seed with paraffin oil before putting it in Jan. the ground, and to cover it with some three inches of 16-31 soil. Thus treated, it is generally safe from attack by vermin. Chelsea Gem is a useful dwarf variety for this sowing. Some gardeners gain time with early Peas by sowing the seed in long narrow boxes provided with loose bottoms. The idea is to bring the crop on under glass until the plants are a few inches high, then to make wide drills or small trenches in the kitchen garden a little wider and deeper than the boxes, and to allow the plants to fall gently into them when the loose bottoms are removed. This plan gives Peas ready for picking a good many days in advance of outdoor sowings. Early Potatoes in Pots and Frames. — Potatoes can also be advanced, but by a somewhat different method from that adopted for the Peas. It is more suitable to plant them out in a spare frame set on a bed of manure and soil, or to put them in pots and keep them in a green- house. The frame saves the labour of potting. A short, close-growing sort is desirable, such as Ringleader, Ash- leaf, or Sharpe's Victor. The sets may be put nine inches apart in rows fifteen inches asunder, and as it will be some weeks before they fill up all the space, there is time to get a few Radishes or Carrots by sowing between the Potatoes directly the latter are planted. Apart from the labour involved, the principal drawback to the pot system is that large pots are wanted. An 8-inch pot is really the smallest size that ought to be used for one Potato, but lo-inch and larger sizes will accommodate three sets. They should be put about half-way down, so that they can be well covered. Onions. — Onion growers find that they get larger bulbs, and have less trouble from enemies of the crop, by raising plants under glass in January than by sowing 61 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Jan. out of doors in March or April. Ailsa Craig is a good 16-31 sort for this purpose. January Gardening in Brief — A RfesuMfi Jan. We see that January is not an ideal planting month, and that those who have fruit and other trees and shrubs Resume to put in will generally do better to let January be a month of preparation than of planting. Wintry weather may bring much outdoor work to a standstill, but if it means no more than frost, it does not cause complete paralysis. Any carting or heavy wheeling that may be needed can be done with advantage when the ground is hard with frost. The pruning of fruit trees may be carried on also. Such ground work as digging and manuring cannot be conducted with economy and safety when there is snow on the ground, and snow must never be dug in. The making of paths and roads can be carried on. Showery weather is by no means bad for this work, as the rain helps to " bind " the ballast. Lawns can be made in winter by laying turves if the ground is free from snow and not sodden, always pro- vided that there is freedom from frost. In warm greenhouses Begonias, Gloxinias, Sweet Peas, and Lobelias can be raised from seed ; and Chrys- anthemums and Winter Carnations can be propagated by cuttings. Bulbs in pots must be kept under observa- tion, lest they spoil in the plunging material. Air and water are required by early bulbs that are making free growth. Tubers of Begonias and Gloxinias may be started if early bloom is required. Roses may be potted and pruned, in order to give flowers in late winter and spring. 6? Resuni6 THE OPENING YEAR Little will be doing in the flower garden, beyond Jan ground work and turfing. It is true that Rose beds and herbaceous borders may be planted as well as prepared, but March is generally a better planting month than January. Any mechanical work, such as making fences, erecting arches, constructing pergolas or building sum- mer-houses may be pursued. Let it be remembered that mere ground work, such as forming beds and borders, and deepening and manuring soil, is, however unheroic, essentially important. On the quality of the winter work turns the beauty of the summer garden. Vines and Peaches may be started in heated fruit houses if early crops are wanted, but in other cases the work will be merely preparatory. For instance. Vines may be pruned, and houses cleansed. There will be little sowing or planting in the kitchen garden, but early Broad Beans and Peas may be sown if the ground is dry enough. Cucumbers, Cauliflowers, Tomatoes, Peas (in boxes), French Beans (in pots), and Onions may be sown under glass. Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb may be forced. Potatoes may be planted in pots or frames ; in the latter case, Radishes and Carrots may be sown between them. 6? CHAPTER II MANY BUDS, SOME BLOOM, AND THE EARLY BIRD Feb. How baffling is the problem of the birds ! It beats at us sharply in February, because early flowers are opening in warm places — flowers of a kind that the birds find a peculiar pleasure in pulling to pieces. And then, still more serious, there is the question of the fruit buds. The fruit lover who is also a bird lovertis non- plussed when sparrows strip his Gooseberry bushes of their buds, and finches wanton with the fat treasure- houses of the Pears and Plums. Our sympathies are with him, for we, too, are gardeners, and we know how poignant the sorrow is. Birds have multiplied greatly in gardens of recent years, partly, perhaps, as a result of the Wild Birds' Protection Acts (which create a close time), partly owing to the reduction in the area devoted to cereal crops on the farms, and partly, no doubt, because gardeners themselves have multiplied, and obligingly provided a great deal more food than there used to be. Of course, the Acts do not debar a person from killing birds on his own property if he thinks proper to do so, although many people are under the mistaken impression that they do. But who can kill a bird without bitter pangs ? It is almost as bad as having to cut down a tree. I do not believe that birds should be killed, except in entirely special circumstances. The most that I can find it in my heart to say is, that I think one or two kinds might be 64 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD reduced to some extent with advantage. There is the Feb. house sparrow, for example. He not only does untold mischief, but he obviously glories in it. His impudent chirp from the edge of the roof gutter (he is particularly partial to this position, because it enables him to cock his head about, and ruffle his feathers, and pretend to make swoops down) is almost as exasperating as his vicious habit of pulling off every yellow flower that he can fasten his beak on. Then there is the blackbird. He adds to his sins by constantly starting up unex- pectedly, and making you jump out of your skin by hurtling off with a piercing shriek. Thirdly, there is the bullfinch. He neither makes fun of you nor startles you. He pursues his devious ways quietly and unob- trusively. But what a hardened ruffian he is ! One healthy bullfinch is calculated to make the most philosophical fruit grower boil with rage, and to drive the meekest amateur to a shot-gun. Threads strung among fruit bushes and over flowers check birds, while certainly a spray of limewash over fruit trees has a good effect. February is a good month for applying such a spray, and it may be made of the right consistency with the following ingredients : A LIME AND SALT SPRAY FOR FRUIT TREES 1 8 lbs. of lime 3 lbs. of salt I lb. of waterglass 8 gls. of water The spray will not only baffle birds, but will reduce moss and scale. Amateurs in districts where late frosts are common should particularly make a point of using this wash, because, in addition to its virtues as a cleanser and a 65 E THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. circumventer of birds, it retards the opening of the buds, and tends therefore to reduce injury from frost. Frost and its Effects on Blossoms and Plants Speaking of frost, those who are forming new gardens should bear in mind the conditions that make for severe frost, and take care to avoid putting plants that are likely to suffer the worst from frost into situa- tions subjected to the greatest severity. Contrary to general belief, moist vapour near the earth is a pre- ventative of frost, and but for cold air sinking down from higher altitudes the low level would be the safer. Even as it is, it is generally fairly safe if there is a body of water near. Without this the low site is certainly dangerous. Sharp frost when the blossom is open is generally disastrous. What we want is some kind fairy to spread her gauzy robe over our fruit trees on those piercingly clear nights when there is nothing to check the radia- tion of moisture from the earth. Her lightest skirt would serve the purpose as well as the clumsiest fabric which we could fit up. But frost does not necessarily kill even tender plants if they are thawed properly. The way to thaw them with safety is to syringe them with cold water in shade, not to put them into a sunny place. Feb. FEBRUARY— First and Second Weeks 1-14 We must continue our work of soil preparation this month, and endeavour to complete all big alterations or additions, such as making borders, rockeries, lawns, paths, arches, pergolas, and fruit trellises. 66 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD Flowers Verbenas. — In the mid- Victorian epoch the Verbena was one of the pets of professional florists, and it suffered the common fate of being pampered and coddled, and cross-fertilised and over-propagated until it became a weakling, ever ready to fall a prey to a fungus — in this case mildew. So it fell under a cloud. But, sweet and pretty flower that it is, it was never forgotten, and it is now having a little revival. If the reader decides to indulge himself in a bed of mixed seedlings this year, he is not at all likely to regret it. I advise him to sow in a warm greenhouse early this month, set his plants out three inches apart in boxes when they begin to crowd, and harden them in a frame. There is an old species of Verbena called Venosa with a very uncommon colour, almost reminding one of mauve silk. I know of a bed of it in a Suffolk garden where, toned by the shadows of venerable Yews, it presents a refined and soothing con- trast to the flames of Begonias and Zonal Geraniums. And memory recalls a charming group of this Verbena aud white Marguerites in a garden at Taormina. This Verbena may be raised from seed. Hollyhocks. — There are people in the world who never forget old flowers. It is not always that they are old themselves ; they are often moved by an impulse of inherited floricultural loyalty — of all examples of fidelity the most precious. I know people who lament that the golden day of the Hollyhock has passed, merely from the recollection of the joy which their parents took in it in the years gone by. This grand old flower is never likely to regain the position which it once held in our gardens, because the fungoid enemy (doubtless 67 Feb. 1-14 Feb. 1-14 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK brought on by false forcing culture) which laid it low is still lurking in the borders ; but it is not to be despised as a seedling plant. The principal seedsmen sell well- selected strains, and the plants have better constitutions than those raised from cuttings. Besides, the plants are so cheap compared with named varieties that if the worst comes to the worst the loss is not severely felt. By sowing now in a warm house, and preventing deli- cacy of plant by thin culture, abund- ance of air, early potting, and harden- ing in a frame, a supply of vigorous plants can be secured that may V be expected to bloom the same year. The Gay Carina. — This brilliant plant, handsome alike in its leaves and in its flowers, has been marvellously de- veloped by florists, and one can but Fig. 25.— Propagating Cannas. a. Old tuber with young suckers growing at b, c. Old tuber covered with compost. d, A rooted sucker. .. How to pot the sucker. ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^jjj not impart to it, by vegetative reproduction and forcing culture, a delicacy of constitution that may render it an easy prey to disease. Seminal reproduction, or the raising of plants by the most natural of all pro- cesses — sowing seed, may be expected to act as a safe- guard. It is true that we cannot be sure of getting the 68 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD special named varieties which are exhibited by florists Feb. quite true to type from seed, but that is only a calamity ^~'^A from the point of view of the specialist ; it does not attain to the dimensions of a national disaster, such as is caused by the complete collapse of a great flower. The seeds of Cannas are as large as Peas, round, smooth, and extremely hard. The excessive induration has given them the name of " Indian Shot," and it militates against rapid germination. The process may be hastened by soaking the seeds in water for a night before sowing, and also by giving them a bottom heat of 65° to 70°. The latter would tend to make the plants tender, but there is no difficulty in hardening them, as standing them in an unheated frame for two or three weeks before planting them out will serve that purpose. By sowing early in February, plants can be had in bloom in the garden the same year. The flowers are as brilliant as Gladioli, and in rich, deep, moist soil the foliage is of great beauty. Plants may be increased by suckers also (see Fig. 25). Indian Pinks. — Every member of the great genus Dianthus has its admirers, and when we remember that it embraces the Carnation, the White Cottage Pink, and the Sweet William, we realise its great value and im- portance. The "Indian" Pink is the Dianthus Chin- ensis of botanists, and it came to us from China, not from India, as far back as 1713. The original species had a red flower, but the plant proved to have that precious quality of variability on which florists have worked so successfully. One may now get several colours by buying mixed seed, and also a dwarfer strain than the type, with equal beauty of flower. But I am not sure that the most valuable strain of Indian Pink is not that known to botanists as Dianthus Heddewigii, 69 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. or the Japan Pink. It rarely exceeds six or eight inches ^"^4 high, but it has large, fringed flowers with a good range of colours. One can buy white, salmon, scarlet, and crimson separately. There are both single and double types, and I know of few more beautiful plants than the double white Japan Pink. It throws a few singles, but not many, and the best of seedsmen cannot eliminate singles entirely — witness ten-week Stocks. One can also get the fringed Mikado strain, which is of much taller growth, and has single and semi-double flowers of many colours. The Indian and Japan Pinks are nominally biennials — that is, plants which bloom one year from seed sown the previous year, and die. But while their cousins, the Sweet Williams, are generally treated as biennials, the Indian Pinks are grown as annuals, being flowered the same year as sown, and discarded after blooming. If sown in February in a greenhouse or warm frame, hardened, and planted in May, they are sure to bloom the same year ; indeed, they will generally do so if sown in a unheated frame in March. Petunias. — The Petunia just lacks that softness which makes a flower intimately lovable, but it has such bright- ness and freedom of blooming as to win popularity. And will it not flower cheerfully in somewhat unfavour- able circumstances — in poor soil, for example ? It will do so ; indeed, some growers go so far as to declare that it is best put into poor earth, because luxuriance of growth is checked, and a natural tendency to flower- ing thereby engendered. It is, of course, the fact that flowering, as a step towards Nature's great object of reproduction, is encouraged by weak growth. If a plant is not vigorous, Nature hastens to get flower and seed out of it, lest it perish barren. But we generally get 70 The Jatanese Pink, Dianthus Heddewigii, i;ro\vn as an annual i'ko.m seed sown the same year. BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD bigger flowers from strong plants than from weak ones, Feb. and certainly, so far as Petunias are concerned, I do not I~I4 believe that poor, dry soil is better than rich, moist mould, because I have proved the contrary. We like to grow Petunias both in garden and green- house, and the seedsmen, who watch over us with a fatherly solicitude, and extract shillings and half-crowns from us with a paternal air, give us " strains " suitable for either purpose. Turn to the Petunia page in the catalogue of a prominent seedsman, and you will nearly always find two, and generally three, sections. There is (i) Double Fringed^ which is the one for pots ; it can always be bought in mixture, and often in separate colours also. I cannot admit a personal predilection for the dark-coloured sorts, but the pink, and the pink with white, are pretty ; while as for the pure white fringed, it is a glorious plant for the amateur's greenhouse. There is (2) the Bedding Single, which may be rose white, striped, or mixed, and is of dwarf, neat habit. The rose is particularly good ; it has a clear white eye, and is charming as a flower, as well as beautiful as a plant. Finally, there is (3) the Large Floweritig Single, which may have plain or fringed flowers, and may be white, rose, crimson, striped, scarlet, or mixed in colour. Early February is a good time to raise all the Petunias, whether for indoors or not, and they may be treated as advised for other small seeds in the first chapter. Stocks for Pots. — Do amateurs in general know the East Lothian Stock, I wonder ? It is a form of the Intermediate, a dwarf Stock of neat habit, the special value of which lies in the fact that it will bloom under glass in winter and spring, if raised from seed th^ 7^ THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. previous summer. It is because they generally bloom I~I4 the year following the sowing that the Intermediate Stocks are often described as biennials, but if they are sown in February or March they will flower the same year, and therefore they are annuals. Every owner of a greenhouse who loves bright and fragrant Stocks should make the acquaintance of the East Lothian section. He can buy in separate colours, such as pink, scarlet, crim- son, and white, or in mixture. By sowing this month in a warm house, one gets plants in bloom by mid-summer. The same treatment as for other seedlings raised in winter will suffice, but particular attention must be paid to watering and ventilating, as young Stocks are of all plants the most ready to " damp off." Imported Japanese Lilies. — The golden-rayed Lilium Auratum is rather dear in autumn, because the only bulbs available then are English. The Japanese can grow the Lilies much cheaper than we, but they cannot get their bulbs to us until winter. Imported bulbs are generally plentiful and cheap in February. They are procurable from bulb merchants, who advertise in the horticultural papers, and also at auction sales. The defect of these bulbs is that they are sometimes loose and soft, but that is not fatal to flowering unless they are downright spongy. A batch of importations often yield different types of flower. If the grower gets a good pure white he has a treasure. The large while, with crimson spots, called Platyphyllum, is very fine, and so is the 72 Fig. 26.— Potting Liliums. a. Crocks for drainage. b. Bulb potted. c. Space left for future top- dressing. BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD red-barred Rubro-Vittatum. Wittei is pure white. The Feb. amateur may wish to grow the Lihes for his conserva- ^~H tory, and if so he had better put them low down in 7-inch or 8-inch pots, and barely cover them with soil until they are growing freely and pushing stem roots, when he can fill up the pots nearly to the top. It is a very good plan with these, as with nearly all bulbs, to keep them under cocoa-nut fibre for six weeks after potting, in order to give the roots a chance of spreading before the stem growth makes great demands upon them. A soil made up of three parts loam, one part decayed manure, one part peat, and a liberal mixture of coarse sand suits the Japanese Lily. One finds that such an addition to garden soil, if the latter is stiff, helps the plants immensely when they are grown out of doors ; at the least some sand should be put in the hole. T/ie Fern-like Grevtllea. — One is often asked " the name of this fern " by amateurs who show a tallish, graceful plant, with much cut (laciniated) leaves, which they are growing in the greenhouse or conservatory. It is not a fern, but an Australian evergreen shrub named Grevillea Robusta, after one Greville. It bears orange - coloured flowers in early summer, but nobody grows it for the sake of the blossoms. Gardeners like to arrange it with flowering plants in conservatories. It is very handsome, and gives little trouble, requiring no care beyond watering and ventilating. Most seedsmen supply the Grevillea, and early February is a good time to sow. It likes a warm, moist house from the first. Dryness, either at the root or in the atmosphere, is distasteful to it. Streptocarpuses. — The up-to-date amateur has already learned that the Streptocarpus is one of the modern pets of professional florists, who have given it larger flowers 73 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. and richer colours. He has also learned to pronounce ^"^4 its rather formidable name, which comes from streptos, twisted, and carpos, fruit, and is rather proud of mention- ing it accordingly. The Streptocarpuses are East or South African plants, with broad, thick, drooping leaves, reminiscent of Gloxinias, but, I think, more handsome. The flowers are not so large as those of Gloxinias, nor is the range of colours so wide, but they are undeni- ably beautiful ; and the blues, mauves, and lavenders are exquisite shades which the Gloxinia, with all its beauty, cannot equal. To get strong flowering plants in June onwards, seed of Streptocarpuses should be sown in a warm house during the present month. It germi- nates readily in a temperature of 60° to 65°. As the Streptocarpus is a tuberous plant, it grows somewhat slowly in its early stages, but still it can be flowered within six months from the sowing if warmth and moisture are available. Achhnenes for Baskets. — I have not yet said what beautiful basket plants the Achimenes are, nor how quickly a spreading mass of brilliant bloom can be produced by inserting tubercles in mid-winter. Of course one can buy seed, but seedsmen rarely specialise it as they do Gloxinias, Begonias, and the like ; and as the tubercles are quite cheap, only costing three to five shillings per dozen, there is no serious obstacle on the score of cost. The plants never look better than when growing out of the open sides and from the top of an ornamental wire basket suspended from the roof of a greenhouse or conservatory. How are they made to grow thus ? By the simple plan of first lining the basket to prevent the earth falling through, putting a layer of soil in and laying tubercles on it about every three inches round the side of the basket j then more 74 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD soil, more tubercles, and so on if the basket is large. If Feb. the baskets which are to accommodate the Achimenes I~I4 are occupied by some other plant, such as the lovely flowering Begonia, Gloire de Lorraine, at the present time, the difficulty can be got over by starting the former in pans or boxes, and transplanting them to the baskets later on. Abutilons for Pillars. — The flowering Abutilon (I use this term to distinguish it from the species grown for their foliage, such as Vexillarium), is not an ideal plant for small houses, owing to its loose and straggly growth ; but it comes in useful for larger structures. If the con- servatory roof is supported by pillars, the latter may be used as supports for various plants, amongst them Abu- tilons. The flowers are bell-shaped, and there is a good variety of colour amongst them. They can be got in few months by sowing seed in a warm house at the pre- sent time, and the plant is not likely to cause any anxiety, even during babyhood, as it is a free and healthy grower. The Marechal Niel on the Greenhouse Roof. — I am not sure that we see it so often as we used to do, that ram- pant, strong-caned, glorious Marechal Niel. A good many of the plants have died out through canker, and their places have not been filled. Probably if Rose lovers were asked about the rare old Marechal, with its great golden flowers (they are not really gold-coloured, of course, but "golden" has an impressive sound) and its powerful fragrance, they would say that they loved it as deeply as ever. In the abstract they do, but in the concrete they let it slip away, because their attention is fixed on novelties. Many people undoubtedly lose in- terest in a plant that is given to dying away abruptly without any apparent reason. See how the Apricot is falling into disfavour. With all the beautiful Roses 75 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. which have been introduced during the past few years, I~I4 there is no improved Mar^chal Niel ; it still stands alone ; and this being so, there certainly ought not to be any fear of its dropping out of the ranks. It is really more suited for a cool conservatory than a heated greenhouse, as winter warmth pushes it into growth too soon ; and this is a point which its lovers should bear in mind. It ought to be dormant till March, then it will bloom in April and May. During those months a really strong plant may give two or three hundred flowers, as it not only bears abundantly but continuously. A deep root run of turfy loam favours strong growth. The cutting back of long canes to the stock after flowering is good, and it is a pity that growers of the Mardchal do not take their courage in one hand, and a sharp knife in the other, and hack the plant right back directly it goes out of flower. It is pure butchery, of course. There is no nicely balanced skill or delicate craftsmanship about it. Any pig-sticker could make a neat job of it. And put in this brutally plain way, the operation really does seem disagreeable. You prune, so to say, by the lineal rod. You bare whole yards of roof. You litter the place with a distressing tangle of stems and leaves. When you have done, you feel as guilty as if you had poked your walking-stick through a picture (more than once I have dreamed that 76 -Pruning Marshal Niel Rose. a. Old branch to be cut out after flowering. b. The unripe tips of young branches to be cut off in Spring. BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD I have done this at Burlington House, and that I have Feb. been ejected with ignominy). And you tremble lest ^"H your wife should come in before you have sneaked into the rear with the spoil, and surreptitiously burnt it. But look ahead a few weeks (you cannot get your wife to do this, because it is against her principles, and so she had better know nothing about it beforehand), and see the magnificent new canes that almost leap out of the gnarled stumps, as gauze-clad figures leap out of tree trunks and huge shells in the pantomimes. A couple of months, and you have new yards of canes, new breadths of foliage. The golden days of late summer partially brown the shoots, and so you get the condition of maturity which the gardener speaks of as "ripe wood." Abundance of fine flowers follow in the ensuing spring. Zonal and Ivy-Leaved Geraniums. — Although the Zonal Geranium is supposed to have declined as a garden plant (as a matter of fact, it has not done anything of the kind), it is reputed to have increased in favour as a winter flower for the greenhouse. I believe this, although I do not believe the other. A burst of Geraniums is apt to raise such a colour racket in the summer sunshine as to annoy you like a red brick house. But it is another matter on a grey winter day, with the air full of fog. Then one wants to be cheered first of all ; that is the primary consideration. Few winter-blooming plants are more invigorating than the Zonal Geranium. It has the same inspiriting effect on an amateur gardener as a foot- ball cup-tie has on a Sheffield cutler. But there is less noise about it ! If cuttings of Zonals are put in now the plants resulting therefrom will bloom next autumn and winter. They may try to flower before, but the attempt should be suppressed by picking out the young trusses, A temperature of 50° to 55° is desirable. 77 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. The Ivy-leaved section is as useful for autumn bloom- ^"^4 ing as the Zonal is for winter, and it may also be increased by cuttings inserted now. In both cases soil containing a great deal of sand should be used. Among the Garden Shrubs. — It is often convenient to dig shrubberies at this time of year, because there is no urgent current work, and it is a good time, too, provided that the soil is not snow-bound, nor so wet as to clog the tools. Of course there are shrubberies and shrubberies. There are shrubberies in the open and shrubberies under trees. The gardener is not likely to do much digging among the latter, because the soil is too full of large roots. The fact that certain shrubs, notably Aucubas, thrive under trees (some of the largest, handsomest, and best berried Aucubas which I know of are growing under large evergreen trees) might lead one to suppose that shrubbery-digging is not advantageous. I think it is, provided it is done by sensible workmen using a fork. A foolish person armed with a spade might easily do more harm than good. Shrubs differ as greatly in their root systems as in their branches. Aucubas make a great, close mass of thick, fleshy roots. So does the Box. The Cypresses and Pines (trees really, but commonly used as shrubs) have more spreading and fibrous roots. Those shrubs which have the thickest mat of fibres move best, and can be planted at any time ; but February and March suit the majority. While evergreen shrubs are needed for quick screens, deciduous kinds should be worked in among them, partly for the effect of the delightful feathery film of greenery which they fling out in spring, and partly for the flowers which follow. The Spiraeas are particularly good from the former point of view, and ought to be made much use of. The Mock Oranges 78 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD (Philadelphus) are also graceful. As for the Flowering Feb. Currant (Ribes), it no sooner begins to grow than it 1-14 blooms. There are two beautiful and little-grown flower- ing shrubs which the reader may be advised to take note of as under improvement by nurserymen, and they are the Ceanothus and the Buddleia. Most shrubs flower in spring, but these are summer bloomers, and in good soil will be at their best in August probably. I ought to say of the Buddleia that it is the species Variabilis, and not Globosa, which I have in mind. The latter bears little orange balls, and is both quaint and pretty, but it cannot vie in beauty with the former, which bears its inflorescence in large cones. The Ranunculus. — The old-time Scottish kailyard knew the Ranunculus better than Sassenach gardens know it now. I think its day is past, but February is the time for those to plant it who consider that its bright colours and neat form render it worthy of a place in the garden. Fruit What was said of January, as regards planting, applies also to February ; but I would rather plant in February than January if, from one cause or other, fruit trees had to be put in before March. The ground generally crumbles better. Note, however, that the condition of the soil is the real guide. If the ground is dry enough to crumble readily, January planting is satisfactory. Re- garding fruit tree planting as essentially dry weather work, I would say : Get your trees as soon as you can, and lay them in some sheltered place with loose earth over their roots to keep them safe from frost, but do not put them in their final positions until the soil is sufficiently dry to fall readily off the tools when turned up. There 79 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. can hardly be such a thing as soil being too dry in ^"^4 winter. Methods of Plartting Fruit. — Modern opinion, seems undecided on the question of deepening soil for fruit by bastard trenching, as gardeners do for vegetables (see remarks in the January chapter). Some growers hold the view that the circumstances of fruit and vegetable growing are so essentially different that the one is of no value as a guide to the other. There is something in this. Nearly all vegetables are annual crops, and the ground on which they grow is regularly broken, so that after it has once been stirred deeply it has no chance of settling down again into the solid mass which was its state before cultivation began. Fruit trees are permanent crops. Such tillage as they are subjected to is confined to shallow digging with a fork, and consequently the ground is liable to become compacted again two or three years after planting. But I am not prepared to admit that the labour of loosening the under soil is necessarily wasted because the ground thus settles back. If the work has the effect of giving the tree a good start, it is repaid. On two points, however, there ought not to be any division of opinion — the value of firm planting and of surface manuring. The former is desirable because it brings about that intimate association between root and soil which is so essential for root formation, and the latter tends to keep the roots near the surface. Human nature is very trying with regard to its fruit trees. Persuade a man to plant his trees wide apart, in order to give them plenty of room, and he will probably go and intercrop close up to the stems with vegetables, over- looking the fact that vegetables absorb the same kind of food as fruit, and will certainly rob the trees. This is a 80 Ib^ ' -1. J ) ^^r-- ^^. ^ '^ ' 1 ^ ^ "^^^ WORCESIEK PeARMAIN, A VALUABLE EARLY DESSERT APPLE; THE TREE IS A HEALTHY GROWER, AND A PROLIFIC BEARER. Ir IS AN EXCELLEN ]■ SORT FOR A SMALL GARDEN, TO PRECEDE Cox's Orange Tippin. ^ ^ "^1 C.) o >- Xj Vh ir: u ^? o -H^ < K c^ r.-' O i--^ m C4;s^ -J-J o CD t-^ G PI .2 *0D c5 ^ • \"-< ^i Q BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD common mistake in kitchen gardens, where fruit trees are Feb. often planted round the outside of the vegetable borders, I-I4 and it is often made in orchards, where large trees are intercropped with smaller ones, and the latter again with Raspberries and Strawberries. To put things into plain, workaday figures, let me suggest the following : No standard trees to be planted nearer to each other than 24 feet „ half-standard „ „ „ „ 12 „ " b"sh „ „ „ „ 9 „ „ soft fruit bushes „ „ „ „ 4^ „ „ Vegetables „ „ „ the trees than 3J „ Where fruit trees of different classes are mixed in an orchard, it is an excellent plan to work as follows: Standard trees .... 30 feet apart Half-standards or bushes . . 15 „ Soft fruit bushes .... 7^ » And until the latter grow out and require all the ground, Vegetables or Strawberries can be grown down the centres of the spaces, so that they would be 3f feet away from the fruit bushes. In small gardens, amateurs would find it a good plan to adopt the rule of cropping no nearer to fruit trees, whether on walls, wires, or in open rows, than four feet. Staking Fruit Trees, — Amateurs, who are not in the way of providing every kind of accessory required in gardening, are often bothered by what, with the large grower, is a commonplace thing. Thus, when they are told that if they plant standard trees they must provide stakes for them, they are apt to feel troubled, because they do not know what kind of stakes to use, nor where to get them, nor how to deal with them. The amateur sees brooms in the oilman's shop, and rakes in the iron- monger's, but neither the oilman nor the ironmonger 81 F Feb. I-14 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK exhibits fruit-tree stakes. In the country the village haulier (who may also be your coal merchant) can generally advise; and in the suburbs a builder might help, but it is just as well to try the nurseryman from whom the trees are brought. Ash stakes eight feet long, sharpened and soaked in creosote at the base, will answer the purpose. They should be driven well down at the same time as the trees are put in, and rammed in with the trees, then they will be quite tight. The amateur should not forget to put a pad at the top, so that neither the edge of the stake top, nor the tying material, can injure the bark. It is only standard trees — that is, trees with long stems — which need staking. Wall and Wire- Frame Trees, — I have already men- tioned that flat, trained trees are very suitable for walls and wire frameworks beside paths. I certainly think that every amateur gardener who has a quarter of an acre of ground should make a point of growing a selection of Apples and Pears, if nothing else. My two points about the upright cordon tree (see Chapter I.) : that it takes up very little room, and that a number of varieties might be planted in a very small area, may be supplemented by a third : that it is cheap. These trees do quite well two 82 Fig. 28.— Staking Fruit Trees. a. Stake driven in without damaging the roots. b. How to secure the stem to the stake. c. How to make the head of the tree fast to the stake. BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD feet apart. The following varieties should be grown, whatever others are liked, because they have general qualities : Feb. 1-14 Dessert Apples Gladstone Beauty of Bath Worcester Pearmain James Grieve Cox's Orange Pippin Baumann's Winter Reinette Cooking Apples Lord Grosvenor Lord Derby Peasgood's Nonsuch Lane's Prince Albert Newton Wonder Bramley's Seedling Pears Jargonelle Clapp's Favourite Williams' Bon Chretien Beurre Hardy Emile d'Heyst Louise Bonne of Jersey Doyenne du Cornice Beurre Diel Winter Nelis Josephine de Malines Cooking Pear Catillac The above varieties are approximately in the order of their ripening. I give prominence to Apples and Pears because they are the most in demand, but a few Plums and Cherries may be added with advantage where space permits. These, however, do better as fan trees than single stem cordons, and where fans are used there should be more wires on the trellis ; in fact, beginning at two feet from the ground, they should be placed a foot apart right to the top. The varieties might be ; Dessert Plums Early Transparent Gage Denniston's Superb Late Transparent Gage Kirke's Jefferson's Coe's Golden Drop Cooking Plums Rivers' Early Prolific The Czar Victoria Gisborne's Prolific Monarch President 83 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. Dessert Cherries Cooking Cherries 1-14 May Duke Flemish Red Napoleon Bigarreau Morello Governor Wood One sees Gooseberries more and more used as trained trees, and they yield their finest fruit when restricted to two or three branches, which are allowed to extend several feet, and are pruned by stopping the side shoots in summer and cutting them close back in late winter. Such trees can be trained on a wall or a wire framework the same as cordon Apples and Pears. If selected varieties are grown, the fruit will grow as large as Walnuts, and often bring a special price when offered for sale at the best town shops. These very large fruits are not generally the best in flavour, however. Several of the small Gooseberries are quite delicious as dessert fruits. Here are selections to embrace various types : Large Gooseberries Fine-Flavoured Gooseberries Antagonist Bright Venus Dan's Mistake Langley Beauty London Langley Gage Trumpeter Red Champagne Gooseberries for Tarts Crown Bob Whinham's Industry All may be grown as bushes or trained trees. Red and White Currants are also grown on the flat system against walls and wires, being pruned the same as Gooseberries. They do not object, nor does the Gooseberry, to a north or east wall. The Black Currants are not so suitable, and if they were grown as trained trees at all they would have to be grown as fans, so that 84 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD young wood could be tied in, like Peaches. The follow- Feb. ing are good varieties and they are also suitable for I-I4 culture as bushes : Red Currant White Currant Black Currant Raby Castle White Versailles Boskoop Giant Raspberries are often trained to wires, but a lofty framework, such as is used for the larger fruits, would be partially wasted on them. They do not need more than two wires at the most, one a yard from the ground, the other eighteen inches higher ; and they are more often restricted to one only, four feet above the ground. Canes may be planted in February, and cut back near the ground. Good Raspberries Antwerp Superlative Strawberries. — February is often a good month for planting Strawberries, and whether it is good or bad turns principally on the weather and the state of the soil, just as in the case of sowing seeds. I advise the intending planter to order what he wants, anyhow, then he will have the plants by him, and can put them in at the first favourable opportunity. They will come in small pots, and if the weather should turn very bad, with much frost and snow, after they arrive, it is a simple matter to stack the pots in a heap on their sides, in which position they will be perfectly safe. I have referred to the difference of opinion which exists respecting the value of breaking ground deeply for fruit trees. I do not suppose that it extends to the Strawberry. There is probably only one opinion about preparing the ground for them, and that is to break it up as deeply as possible, and manure it well in the process. Four pounds of sulphate of potash per square rod will make a valuable 85 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. addition to whatever yard manure is used, and a special ^ point should be made of using this valuable chemical fertiliser on light soil, which is probably poor in potash. Although Strawberries are often planted among fruit trees, in order to make some use of the ground while the trees are growing up, it is more convenient to form a bed of them, because of strawing the rows when the fruit has formed. Growers agree as to the desirability of giving Strawberry plants plenty of room, and gene- rally plant them thirty inches apart by eighteen. When small plants are put in late, and do not promise to fill out their space the first year, it is permissible to grow Lettuces and Onions between the rows for one year ; but in case of doubt the amateur should always err on the safe side, and give the Strawberries all the room. Good Strawberries Royal Sovereign Reward Laxton's Latest The first named is as valuable for forcing in pots as for forming an outdoor bed, and I may take the opportunity of saying that those who have strong plants in pots — plants with a plump central " crown," not little tufts with three or four leaves only — may put them into a house now. A temperature of 60° to 65° is advisable, but where the amateur has a cool house and a warm one, or a cold frame and a heated house, it is wise to put the plants into the cooler place for a fortnight, and so prepare them for the warmer conditions. With strong plants, and plenty of heat, there is a natural temptation to push the plants on as fast as possible, but hard forcing sometimes results in the plants refusing to bloom. They are benefited by a very light position, such as a shelf close to the roof glass. The worst that can happen to them there is that the soil may become dry, and this 86 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD should be guarded against by making a rule to examine Feb. them at least once a day. The opening of a number I-I4 of flowers on each plant may be taken as an indication that all is well, and the work may be consummated by watching for the time when the pollen on the anthers is dry, and then drawing a camel's-hair brush across flower after flower, thus insuring impregnation. If all the flowers set, so that the plant becomes crowded with fruit, it will be prudent to remove some, thinning down to eight or nine berries, which will then swell to a considerable size. Peaches and Nectarines. — Culturally, these delicious fruits count as one, whether grown out of doors or under glass. They are not really so hardy as Apples and Pears, but then they are very rarely grown quite in the open, they have the shelter of walls. Even so they may fail if the position is exposed to cold winds, because when chilled by draughts they are predisposed to the attack of a disfiguring and often deadly fungus, known in gardens as blister, and to scientists as Exoascus de- formans. Large, reddish swellings form on the leaves, which presently shrivel and fall, leaving the tree bare. Neither a Peach nor any other tree can be robbed of its leaves without suffering ; it often sustains so severe a shock as to die outright. While pointing out that pro- tection from cold wind is the best preventive of blister, I would add that the spores of the fungus are probably always on hand, and that they can be destroyed by a copper sulphate without the tree being injured, so long as lime is added in sufficient quantity. Here is a recipe: BORDEAUX MIXTURE FOR DESTROYING FUNGI \ pound of sulphate of copper \ pound of quicklime, freshly burned. i\ gallons of water 87 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. Dissolve the copper in a little water in a wooden I-14 vessel, reduce the lime to powder by sprinkling it with water, and then let it stand in a vessel of water for a few hours ; pour the two mixtures together through a piece of sacking, and make up to the full quantity of water. The mixture can be sprayed on in February and March, and it will kill the spores without hurting the trees. Good PeacJies Good Nectarines Early Alexander Early Rivers *Hale's Early Cardinal Grosse Mignonne *Lord Napier Dymond Dryden Royal George Stanwick Elruge Sea Eagle Humboldt Barrington Pine Apple ♦Princess of Wales *Victoria The varieties are arranged in the order of their ripening ; those marked * may be chosen if two of each are required. Dymond, Sea Eagle, and Lord Napier might be chosen for outdoor culture. Outdoor Peaches. — An opportunity should be taken of going over outdoor Peach and Nectarine trees, in order to prune out old wood which has borne fruit, and fasten in young shoots with shreds and nails for bearing in the current season. If growth has been vigorous, some of the young shoots may have to be cut out as well as the old ones. The grower must try and calculate how much room each shoot tied in will require, given the under- standing that the leaves of one must not overlap those of its neighbours, and prune accordingly. If, when examining the trees, he sees that the shoots made in the previous year are numerous, and exceed two feet long, he will be wise to make a trench in a semi-circle about four feet from the wall, and prune any strong roots which are found. Signs of growth in the form of swelling buds are 88 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD more welcome to the inexperienced amateur than the Feb. old stager. Early bloom is likely to be destroyed by late ^~^4 frost unless protected. It is not a bad plan to retard the opening by shading the trees in sunny weather during February. Peaches in Bloom under Glass. — Peach trees that are grown in a warm house with a view to the production of early fruit may be in bloom" in early February. It is a help to cross fertilisation if a camel's-hair brush is drawn across the flowers when they are fully open, as that distributes the pollen. When the flowers begin to fall, a good syringing is beneficial. I spoke of disbudding in the January chapter, and I would here add that it should be started early, so that the superfluous growths may be got rid of before they have time to extend far. Birds and Fruit Buds. — Chaffinches, bullfinches, and house sparrows are apt to destroy fruit buds ; and as a preventive, as also a check on insects and a destroyer of moss, the lime-and-salt wash recommended in the early part of the present chapter may be sprayed on now. The waterglass, which is one of its components, is used in the preservation of eggs, and can be bought at a chemist's. Vegetables It is still too early to sow out of doors, except in such specially favourable circumstances as were referred to in Chapter I., — that is, a dry, crumbly state of the soil following on winter sunshine. Given these. Peas, Broad Beans, Turnips, and Spinach may be sown in the garden. Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale may be forced (for methods, see previous chapter). Onions, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Celery may be sown in heated houses for early use. 89 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. I- 14 The work of preparing vacant land in the kitchen garden by digging (or bastard trenching) and manuring should be continued. Mushrooms. — Early February is a very good time for those to begin who want to grow Mushrooms on beds in the open air, as the crop can be got before hot weather comes on. Perhaps the reader is a lover of Mushrooms, and appreciates them when gathered from a pasture in September. If so, let him try his hand with a bed, because he will probably enjoy home-grown produce more than ever he did outdoor gatherings, especially if he can be persuaded to pick the Mushrooms in a half -developed state. The worst of the field Mushrooms is that they are often very large and flabby. Thick, firm, half- sized ones are farsuperior in flavour. Expert Mush- room growers generally get produce in two or three months from the time of starting, and an amateur who does not see Mushrooms coming within three months should want to know the reason why. I think that he will see them, however, if he is careful in the preparation of his manure, for much turns on that. He should get it direct from the stables, and have the whole supply delivered as nearly simultaneously as possible, because when it is carted in at intervals of several days the early batches lose their heat before the others arrive. The orthodox ridge-shaped bed, two and a half feet wide at the base, and the same high, will take about one single cartload for every yard. The manure ought to be 90 Fig. 29. — Section of Ridge-shaped Mushroom Bed. . Manure. b. Lumps of spawn. Layer of soil. d. Straw. BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD thoroughly turned three times at intervals of two days, Feb. and then trodden down into a firm mass of the shape ^"^4 advised. Seedsmen supply bricks of spawn, which may be broken up into pieces as large as a Walnut, and pushed into the warm manure. A coat of soil an inch thick should be put on when threads can be seen running from the spawn, and a covering of straw nine inches thick placed over all. Globe Artichokes. — Has the reader had a vegetable resembling a small scaly ball placed before him at a banquet, and eaten it in mute speculation as to what it may be ? It is the Globe Artichoke. Both in appear- ance and flavour it is entirely different from the Jerusalem Artichoke. I am not prepared to say that the Globe kind is worth adding to the list of vegetables for a quite small garden, because it only gives a small quantity of food in proportion to the amount of ground that it occupies ; it is more or less of a delicacy. Growing large and bushy, it needs planting some four feet apart. It can be raised from seed, but those who have plants may increase them early in the year by taking off and planting the young rooted side growths. Afterwards, they may fork some manure into the ground round the old plants, by way of stimulating them. Starting Potatoes in Boxes. — The present is a good time to start Potatoes in boxes. If the reader asks why they should be handled now, inasmuch as it involves time and trouble, I reply : As early Potatoes are sure to make growth of some kind during mild weather towards the end of mid-winter, we may as well have that growth strong. If the tubers are left in a heap in the dark, the sprouts which they push will be weak and valueless ; if the Potatoes are laid thinly in boxes, and put in a light place safe from frost, the sprouts will be short, thick, and 91 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. strong. Potatoes that are started in boxes in this way I~I4 give better and earher crops, when they are ultimately planted, than those which are not so treated. I advise the reader to select sets of about two ounces in weight for seed purposes. Sharpe's Express is a splendid early variety, a heavy cropper, and a good cooker. Feb. FEBRUARY— Third and Fourth Weeks 15-28 The days are now lengthening appreciably. Our " cycle lighting-up time-table for the meridian of Green- wich " tells us that at the middle of February we may leave our lamps unlit till some ten minutes past six. Well, those of us who are amateur gardeners first and cyclists afterwards will be more grateful for the know- ledge that we shall soon have daylight for evening work in the garden. Some of us have nothing to do except to garden all day long, but rather more of us, I think, have to be away from home and garden for the greater part of the day, and make shift in the early morning and in the evening. An hour in the garden on a sharp February morning is as refreshing as a cold sponge. Do not be impulsive and thoughtless, please. No seizing of spade, and digging furiously on an empty stomach, with muscles that have grown flabby from want of exercise. Keep up the ten minutes' practice with the Developer all the winter through, and when February comes rise half-an-hour earlier, and boil a little extra shaving water. A tumbler of it with a large Apple will make a glorious seven o'clock meal ; and give a healthy stimulus for a steady hour in the garden before breakfast. One who follows this course will be an enviable being. He will feel a glow of health and virtue. He 92 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD will tell his acquaintances about it in the train, and Feb. assume a Man from Bedfordshire attitude towards the l5-2o world at large. It is nice to have this feeling. Flowers Christmas Roses. — Almost every amateur is interested in the Christmas Rose — the Helleborus niger of botanists. He loves to think of outdoor flowers at mid-winter, there are so few. And he really can get them. The Christmas Rose does not make a mere pretence of winter blooming; it flowers whole-heartedly with enjoyment, with genuine gusto. It is delightful to see the pure white flowers among the dying brown fern fronds at Kew — freshness taking a foil from decay. Experts in Christmas Roses (everything in gardening is specialised in these days, and very nearly every plant has a Society) tell us an interesting fact about the plant, namely, that it forms two sets of roots — the first in September, the second in early spring, when the new leaves begin to push up. The former are the large roots, the latter the fibres. From this we deduce an important cultural fact, namely, that the best time to pot or plant Christmas Roses is September. But I mention them now because I want people to learn about them while they are in bloom, and grow really interested in the different varieties. The form of the common called Major is very good, and by no means must be ignored, as it will flower abundantly for several weeks, but Praecox is worth noting as an early autumn bloomer. AltifoUus is a fine variety which flowers in November. Angustifolius and Juvernis bloom in winter. A variety of a distinct and pretty colour is Apple Blossom. In view of the scarcity of winter flowers, I beheve that the Christmas Rose will grow in favour as the years pass. 93 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. The Japanese Iris. — With the Lily bulbs which they 15-28 send over in enormous quantities at mid-winter, the Japanese send clumps of their wonderful Kaempfer Iris, which has huge, flat flowers as big as the largest Clema- tises. Botanists call the plant Iris Laevigata, having deposed the old name of Kaempferi. They are rather partial to changing names, and often cause the amateur a good deal of bewilderment, but they mean well. Hardy plantsmen want to get the Japanese Iris called the Clematis-flowered Iris, and the name is apt, but unfortunately it adds another to an already goodly list. One may buy clumps of Japanese Irises at from half- a-crown to five shillings a dozen, according to size. Named varieties are dearer, but, as most of the names are Japanese, very few people can pronounce them or say what they mean. In these circumstances, why worry about names ? We want varietal names for Roses and a few other special things, but not for everything in the garden. Besides, these Irises are generally planted at the water-side, often among rushes or other growth ; and I can hardly suppose that the greatest stickler for named varieties of plants wants to splash about in mud search- ing for labels. Buy, then, in mixture, and plant in moist spots now. If you want Irises for dry spots, turn to the German Flag. Hyacinths in Glasses. — I do not think that so many Hyacinths are grown in glasses of water nowadays as were cultivated in years gone by, because bowls of peat- moss fibre have displaced them, but still there are some. Will the grower give a little attention to glass Hyacinths now ? If they are in a dark place, bring them to the light. If the water is foul, pour it off very carefully and refill, preferably with lukewarm water. One of the troubles with glass Hyacinths is that as the flower heads 94 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD expand the plant gets top-heavy, and, if not supported, Feb. falls overboard. Then there is a to-do. The florist sells I5~28 wire supports suitable for supporting the plants, and one should be procured for each plant. The lower part will clasp the neck of the bottle, the upper will hold the truss. Hyacinths in pots will also want stakes, but these may be ordinary wooden ones. Orange and Salmon Clivias. — Winter is the flowering season of the Clivia, with its orange, salmon, or vermilion bell-shaped flowers, and long, narrow leaves. It is a capital plant for the amateur's conservatory, and also for rooms. It is bright, and lasts well. When a large plant has gone out of bloom (and some which flowered early may have done so already), it may be split up into several smaller ones, which, if potted separately in fresh soil (mostly loam and sand), will develop, and flower well 'next winter or spring. There need be no nervousness about tearing a clump to pieces. It is built up of a series of rhizomes, each of which is really a separate organism, with its own roots and leaves. Each individual that is taken away from a mass will make a better bloomer if treated as a separate plant than if left as a mere item in a crowded mass. The Snow-white Eucharis, — There is no more pleasing warm-house plant than the pure white Eucharis Ama- zonica, and I refer to it now because the present is a good time to give it cultural attention. The foliage may be cleansed by drawing a damp sponge over it. If the pots are very much crowded with bulbs, the whole mass may be shaken out and a separation effected, the bulbs being placed in fresh pots. If the plants have not been thriving, from some unexplained cause, it will be wise to take the opportunity of the bulbs being out to search carefully, especially at the neck, for a transparent mite. 95 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. This tiny enemy is peculiar to the Eucharis, and when 15-28 it finds the plants out, and establishes itself on them, it may destroy them. Steeping the bulbs in hot water in which paraffin oil has been stirred at the rate of a wine- glass per quart will not hurt them, and will make things extremely uncomfortable for the mite. It will be found easier to mix the paraffin and water if half a pound of soft soap is first dissolved in the latter by boiling. The Draught-enduring Palm or Aspidistra. — It is a truism with gardeners that plants are as subject to injury from draught as human beings, but a lot of cold currents are required to overcome the Aspidistra. One could imagine it thriving in the passages of tube railways — those modern institutions where, to avoid walking half a mile through the streets, we plunge into the bowels of the earth, and battle with fierce winds through inter- minable corridors. Likewise, where we sometimes get* electric shocks, like Mr. De Morgan's hero in Somehow Good. Yes, it takes a great deal to kill an Aspidistra. It is so tenacious of life that it grows on and on until the pot becomes crowded with growth. It will live even so, and it is a fact worth remembering that the Variegated Aspidistra will retain its variegation better when it is half starved than when it is grown in a good deal of rich soil. But increase is desired sometimes, in order to get more plants, and the present season of the year is as good as any for splitting up large plants. It will help the plants to re-establish themselves if they can be given the un- wonted luxury of a warm greenhouse. The draughty corridor will not suit them in their unfledged state. Hydrangeas. — Readers have read of the wonderful Hydrangeas that grow around the late Mr. Cecil Rhodes' Cape home, Groote Schuur. I am told by the people who know the plants and the man that they were a 96 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD remarkable sight when in full bloom, and that Rhodes Feb. took a deep interest in them. I fear that we cannot I5~28 grow many plants here as they can in South Africa, and yet there are colonies of Hydrangeas in English gardens. I have a recollection of seeing a large colony of them in a Sussex garden in years gone by, and owing to the presence of iron in the soil the flower heads were blue instead of the normal pink. Watering sulphate of iron into the soil tends to change the colour. My immediate object in referring to Hydrangeas is to point out that those amateurs who have plants established in pots may force them into early bloom by putting them in a warm house. They will stand a good deal of heat if they are well rooted. The pots should really be full of roots now, and the plants will need a good deal of water ; a dose of fertiliser once a week will also do them good. If there are two houses the plants may go into the cooler one as soon as they have come into bloom, as the flowers will last better there than in a warm one. A Pretty Edging Plant {Koniga or Alysswn). — Low-growing plants of neat habit that have pretty flowers serve a useful purpose as edgings to beds or borders. Such a one is the Variegated Woodruff, Koniga (or Alyssum) Maritima Variegata. This very useful and pretty little plant may be propagated easily at this time of year by those who have put a few stock plants into pots in autumn, together with blue Lobelias. The plants will begin to grow in a warm house, and all that is necessary is to take cuttings consisting of a couple of inches or so of the growing tips, put them just clear of each other in boxes of very sandy soil, cover with a square of glass, and put them in a warm place. As soon as they have started growing they 97 G THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. should go on to a shelf, and they will then make good 15-28 plants speedily. Orchids Growers of Orchids have a great advantage over mere everyday plant lovers in that they get the prin- cipal part of their bloom in winter and spring, when less aristocratic flowering plants are in a minority. We cannot get away from the overpowering claims of Orchids ; we can only pass them by on the plain, honest, straightforward ground that we cannot afford them. Orchids have every beauty that a plant can possess. They have great diversity of form, infinite variety of colour, and perfume. The hues have an indescribable delicacy of tone, which distinguishes them from most non-orchidaceous flowers. The reds have the flaming intensity of volcanic fires, the creams have the density of old ivory, the blues have the appealing softness of southern skies. Nature has taxed her ingenuity to the utmost in designing Orchid flowers. They have been constructed with a marvellous cunning. The devices to insure cross-fertilisation by insect agency almost approach the incredible. Flower and insect have been adapted to each other so cleverly that the one seems a necessary complement of the other; indeed, when one examines the structure of some Orchid flowers, it seems impos- sible to avoid the conclusion that their extraordinary mechanism has been devised with the sole object of utilising the insect as an instrument of transport — a sort of carrier. Darwin and other scientific writers have described these floral wonders in their own solid way, but the subject is treated with greater literary 98 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD charm in the writings of Maurice Maeterlinck. In Feb. Flowers and Immortality that strange and subtle genius l5"2o probes deeply into the mystery of the life and structure of plants, and builds up on them a theory of life after death that is not the less absorbing because coloured with his singular and elusive fancy. The amateur gardener may not approach Orchids in the attitude of one who seeks interest in complexity of structure, or of those unsatisfied souls who fail to find contentment in the religions of the majority. He may admire them for their intrinsic beauty, leaving the rest to the botanical student, the mystic, and the searcher for divine revelation. They will richly reward him. Any one of the four principal genera — Cattleya, Cypri- pedium, Dendrobium, and Odontoglossum — will afford him an abundant harvest of beautiful forms and colours. He may be wise to deal first with these, passing to the less important kinds — Angraecum, Laelia, Oncidium, Vanda, and the like — subsequently. Considered collectively, Orchids are certainly a some- what expensive class, but some of the best kinds are cheap, and a few will thrive without much heat. They are imported in large quantities in winter and spring, and it is by no means a bad way of starting Orchid study to visit the auction sales where these importations are disposed of. The sales are advertised in the horti- cultural journals. It is true that the amateur, whose interest in Orchids has been aroused by seeing a col- lection in bloom in a botanic garden, or at a show, or in the garden of a friend, may feel nonplussed when he sees the condition in which the importations are sold. Some of them look as much like bundles of grey faggots as anything. They bear only a very remote and distressing resemblance to plants. But they have life 99 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. in them, and if they are managed properly beauty will ^5~2o gush from them like water from a fountain. Theoretically, certain kinds of Orchids, notably Cypripedium Insigne and Odontoglossum Crispum, can be grown successfully in cool houses of mixed plants. In practice, lovers of Orchids will find it prudent to specialise them in houses of their own. In large Orchid- growing establishments there may be found three structures, the cool house, the Cattleya or intermediate house, and the hot or East India house — nay, there are sometimes four. But very gratifying results may be secured from one roomy house separated into two divisions, a cool one for the plants at their resting stage, and a warmer one for the growing period. The maxi- mum winter temperature for the former may be 45°, and for the latter 55°. An amateur who intends to grow Orchids may well commence preparations in February. He may get his house built and heated, and procure the necessary supply of mechanical appliances. Most of the Orchids are grown in pots, but not in the ordinary form of flower pot. Orchid pots are generally wide and shallow, approximating to what gardeners call pans ; but a few kinds are grown in deep pots. The receptacles are generally made, too, with a series of large holes in the sides. Some Orchids are not grown in any kind of pot, but are bound on to blocks or rafts, or grown in baskets. The root material also differs from that of ordinary plants. It is not "soil" in the usual sense. It is true that peat is used in some potting composts, but it differs from Orchid peat, which is an entirely separate and special article. The best way of getting it is to apply to a trade Orchid grower, or to a dealer in horticultural BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD sundries. Orchids are grown sufficiently largely in Feb. these days to justify its being made into a recognised I5"28 commercial unit. With it may be procured a supply of Sphagnum Moss, which is a particular kind used extensively for Orchids, and generally associated with peat. A considerable quantity of crocks are also required in Orchid growing. These (pieces of broken flower pot) accumulate in all gardens where pot plants are grown ; but if it is necessary to purchase them there need be no difficulty, as any florist or garden sundries- man will supply them. Charcoal is also useful. When house and materials are ready the Orchids may be bought, either at a nursery or an auction sale. The beginner should try to get the advice of an expert friend in the latter case, or he might employ one of the buying agents who frequent the auction rooms to purchase on commission for amateurs who are unable to be present them- selves. He may like to try a few Cattleyas, which are Orchids of large size and glorious colour. Mossiae (late spring) is the best known species, and next to it Trianae (winter). There are always thousands of the former going at the sales, and the price is low. They will like the warmer house. lOI Fig. 30. — Potting Orchids. a. Empty inverted pot over the drainage hole. b. Crocks and charcoal. c. Roots. d. Roots covered ^'iKh. sphag- num moss well above the rim. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. The Cypripediums or Ladies' Slippers are less 15-28 brilliant than the Cattleyas, but equally popular. In- signe (winter) is the best known species. It is not a showy flower, but the colouring is harmonious and pleasing. This species will thrive in a cold house, and another that will succeed without a great deal of heat is Spicerianum, which is an autumn bloomer. The Dendrobiums are lovely Orchids, having flowers of charming form and delightful colour. The best known species is perhaps Nobile, but Wardianum runs it close. Both bloom in mid-winter. The Odontoglossums are perhaps the most useful of all to amateurs, especially Crispum, of which there are numerous varieties, mostly with white or ivory- coloured flowers, but spotted or splashed in varying degrees with other colours. An imported collection of Odontoglossum Crispum alone will afford the ama- teur great interest and pleasure, as the flowers are of exquisite beauty. When imported pieces are received it is wise to put them in a warm house, and keep them moist, until they show signs of growth. Setting them in damp crocks, with which the pots may be two-thirds filled, suffices to start them, but as soon as root and stem growth begins to break, a layer of Sphagnum Moss should be laid on the crocks, and covered with a mixture of Sphagnum and peat, using about two-thirds peat and one-third moss. If the mixture is kept moist, and a warm tem- perature provided, the plants will progress rapidly. Care must be taken to keep the plants firm, and this is best done by placing a stake in the crocks, and fixing it securely, so that it will keep the plants steady when tied to it. 102 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD Fruit Outdoor Figs. — The present is a good period for prun- ing and training Figs on open walls. Figs are not grown in many gardens, and where they are, they are generally left to take care of themselves. The straggling old trees seem very happy without attention, as, indeed, they probably are. They have found something which they like underground, and so they spread in all directions, bearing a little fruit sometimes by way of showing that they can do it if they like, but for the most part sprawling about in light-hearted enjoyment of life. They like to grow in a sheltered angle between walls, and their favourite place is near a doorway, as they can thrust unexpected shoots across it at short notice, and slap the faces of unwary visitors who enter hurriedly. The Figs enjoy this most in wet weather. The owner can control them if he likes, and the way to set about it is to cut all the old straggling shoots out entirely, then to select just as many of the previous year's growths as can be trained to the wall without overlapping each other when in full leaf, and nail them in, like Peach shoots. The most sportive old Fig may be reduced to subjection by these means. The shoots trained in ought to bear fruit the same year, but the grower had better not take into his calculations any fruits that were formed in autumn, and are now hanging on the trees. These " flatter only to deceive." They are sure to fall later on, but fresh ones will come, and will probably swell and ripen. Does the mention of Figs suggest to some reader who is now Figless that he would like to have a tree in his garden ? Then let him plant one now. Any fruit nurseryman will supply him at no great cost. I advise 103 Feb. 15-28 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. the planter to abstain from using manure, unless his 15-28 soil is very poor indeed, as the Fig grows quite ram- pantly enough without. Instead, let him dig in some mortar rubbish, or, failing this, lime and wood-ashes. Further, let him ram the soil firmly about the roots. The variety Brown Turkey is one of the best. It crops well, and the flavour is delicious. Early Grapes. — I spoke in the previous chapter of the starting of the Vines into growth for yielding early Grapes. Those who have Vines in bloom at the present time have the happy promise of success before them. The house is filled with a pleasant perfume ; it is an agreeable place to enter, to work in. But for the present there is not much to do, as watering the borders is best omitted while the bloom lasts. When the fruit has set it may be resumed. A buoyant atmosphere, not too humid, should be maintained, and the temperature may be about 55°. In the case of later Vines, which may be just breaking into growth, note should be taken of the shoots. There may be more than one bud on each spur, and in this case the better of two or more shoots should be taken, and encouraged to make healthy extension in a moist atmosphere. The borders should be kept damp. And when the bunches of fruit show, which they will speedily do, the grower should learn to dis- criminate between those of good and those of bad form. A short, dumpy bunch will show its character at once, and there need be no fear about parting with it, as another is sure to form. An effort should be made to get a long, symmetrical bunch, because such a one will maintain its graceful form as it develops. When the lateral has extended to a couple of leaves beyond the chosen bunch, it may be stopped by pinching off the tip. The laterals will not grow naturally in the 104 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD horizontal position that they will have when, presently, Feb. they are tied down to the wires; and the task of I5"28 bringing them down is a delicate one, as they snap off easily. It is best done by stages, preferably early in the day. Do not turn heat on to late vineries yet awhile. Melons. — Like Grapes, Melons can be had in suc- cession if suitable structures exist, but those whose glass accommodation is limited to one house, in which other plants have to be grown, may perhaps abstain from growing early Melons, as the plants want a good deal of heat and moisture — conditions which may not be suitable for the other plants in the house. If there is a heated pit in which the Melons can have the first claim, seed may be sown now, one each in small pots, using a soil of loam, leaf mould, and sand. The seed will not be long in germinating in a small house, espe- cially if the pots can be put in a propagator, or in a damp place near hot-water pipes. When roots show at the bottom of the pots the plants may be transferred to 5-inch, and from these to mounds of soil placed two feet apart on slates on the stage. The plants should not be stopped, but allowed to extend up the roof. It is not wise to give them large mounds of soil ; but, as in the case of Cucumbers, to supply enough to nicely cover the roots, and to give more in the form of warm, lumpy topdressings of loam, when they are well established and show roots at the top of the mound. Vegetables As noted previously, outdoor sowing must be guided by the weather and the state of the soil. Given fine weather and crumbly soil, early Peas, Broad Beans, los THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. Turnips, and Spinach may be sown out of doors. Celery, 15-28 Cauliflowers, Cucumbers, Onions, Lettuces, and Carrots may be sown under glass. The last three will do in frames. Cabbages for Spring. — I have said that I would not give up the space of a very small garden to Cabbages, especially in the suburbs, but a few rows are undeniably useful in country gardens in spring. Growers generally raise them in summer, and plant them in autumn for spring crops. Those who have, or can procure plants now may put them out eighteen inches apart, and make them very firm. They will not be quite so early as those planted in autumn, but probably they will be early enough to be useful. The Shallot. — This cousin of the Onion is a useful crop to grow, especially if a home-grown pickle is in contemplation. It is cheap, it is tasty, it is easily grown. One may buy seed, but it is better to get bulbs, because seedlings will be of no culinary value until another year. Two pounds of bulbs will yield several pounds — perhaps the better part of a stone — by mid-summer. The actual yield depends upon the soil ; it will be light in poor, dry, shallow ground ; heavy in rich, moist, deep soil. Prepare it soon, by deep digging and manuring, and plant the bulbs nine inches apart in rows a foot asunder. They do not want covering with soil, but only making steady. In due course they will begin to grow, and will form a clump. The only cultivation that need be given is hoeing to keep down weeds. The Underground or Potato Onion. — Here is a mild- flavoured, productive form of Onion that grows from bulbs like Shallots, bought and planted at the present time. It is a useful vegetable, but one rarely sees it except in cottagers' gardens. 106 BUDS, BLOOM, AND EARLY BIRD The Garden in February — A Resume Feb. Like January, February is in the main a month of Resume preparation. It is rarely that dry, settled weather permits of regular work in the open air, but seed and plant orders may be prepared, stores procured, seeds sown, tubers started, and ground got ready. We have a foretaste of the pleasures of the garden in the early flowers. In some places the pretty Hepaticas may be in bloom, and also their close relative the blue Anemone Angulosa. Many early bulbs will be out, notably Snowdrops, Chionodoxa, Crocuses, and Winter Aconites. There may be bloom on the shrubs — on the Glaston- bury Thorn, which is reputed to flower regularly on Christmas Day, but is just as likely to flower before if the autumn is mild ; on the Winter Jasmine ; on the Heaths; on the pretty yellow Hamamelis ; on the yellow For- sythia ; on the Daurian Rhododendron ; on Standish's Honeysuckle (Lonicera Standishii) ; and possibly on the lovely Star Magnolia. Tuberous plants that have to flower the same year from seed, such as Begonias, Gloxinias, Streptocarpuses, Dahlias, Cannas, and Achimenes, must be sown ; but tubers may also be started for earlier bloom. Bulbs in pots, glasses, and vases may be examined, and given light and air. Many permanent greenhouse, room and hot-house plants can be overhauled, and if necessary divided. If a collection of Orchids is to be grown, the house can be prepared, and the appliances procured, with a view to commencing with imported pieces in spring. Turf may be laid. Fruit trees may be planted in favourable weather, at 107 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Feb. proper distances apart, and staked securely. Those who — wish for trained trees, and do not possess walls, may erect a framework of posts and wire. Cordon and fan trees are good types, and the former can be planted as close as two feet apart, so that a good number of varieties can be grown. The sorts should be carefully selected in order to give a succession of fruit. Apples, Plums, Pears, and Cherries should all be represented. Currants and Gooseberries may also be grown as trained trees. All these trees may be pruned. Strawberries may be planted in well-prepared soil, as also may Raspberries. Peaches and Nectarines require attention in February, particularly to see that they are not attacked by the deadly " blister." They may also be pruned, and trees started into growth under glass for early crops. Trees in bloom may be cross-fertilised and disbudded. Melons may be sown. Birds are very troublesome to fruit buds, and measures must be taken to check them. In the kitchen garden the preparation of the ground by digging, trenching, and manuring may be proceeded with. A few early sorts of vegetables may be sown out of doors, and others forced. Cucumbers, Tomatoes, and Celery may be sown under glass. It is a good time to form a bed for Mushrooms, and great care should be taken with the preparation of the manure, inasmuch as success turns upon it. Potato sets may be started in boxes in a light, frost-proof place. io8 CHAPTER III THE DAWN OF SPRING The winter wanes. Spring is stealing out of the south. March It is not with us yet, but it is near. There are blossoms on many shrubs, and the earth is bright with early bulbs. There are the yellow of Crocus and Winter Aconite, the purple of Colchicum, the blue of Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa), and the white of Snowdrops and Snow- flakes. The last are of several kinds, and one of the earliest is Leucojum Vernum Carpathicum. Aestivum blooms later. The shrubs are thickening with bloom. It is not every gardener who knows that there is a winter-flower- ing Rhododendron. Its name is Dauricum, and its colour mauve. It is a bright and beautiful representative of its great genus. The Heaths, notably Erica Lusi- tanica, with soft, pink, or creamy flowers, and the better known Carnea and Mediterranea, are in beauty. The newer one, Hybrida, should receive the attention of Heath lovers. The glittering yellow Forsythia Suspensa is expanding its trails of blossom. There is another beautiful yellow-flowered shrub of winter that blooms, like the Winter Jasmine, in advance of its leaves, pro- ducing charming little tassel-like tufts of bloom. It is Hamamelis Mollis, little known as yet, but certain to grow in favour as the years pass. The delicious Mezereon (Daphne) is an old favourite. It studs its branches with rosy flowers of spicy fragrance. The 109 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March Star Magnolia (Stellata) is a March-flowering shrub of wonderful beauty, the great white flowers standing out boldly from the bare, dark stems. We see, then, the dawn of spring, and with the stimulus of the flowers around us we are encouraged to provide for a display that will take up its tale when the winter flowers fade, and carry us on throughout the year. March MARCH— First and Second Weeks Flowers Primarily, we shall see to our hardy plants, which are the backbone of the modern garden. We shall overhaul those that we have, propagate the desirable, curb the rampant, add new elements. And we shall see to the sowing of half-hardy annuals, to the pro- pagation of Dahlias, to the planting of Carnations and Roses, to the development of seedling Begonias, and to the many other pleasant duties that will find their reward in the beauty of the summer garden. Ferns shall be considered. Herbaceous Borders. — When the winter is mild, signs of life are abundant in the herbaceous border in March. Early growing plants, like Pyrethrums and Doronicums and Michaelmas Daisies (one of the latest of plants to bloom, the Michaelmas Daisy is one of the first to start growing), will be throwing up shoots, and there will be green buds among the brown stumps of plants that were cut down in autumn or winter. Stay 1 were the dead stems really removed some weeks ago, or are they swaying, drear and melancholy, in the March wind ? There is nothing that looks much more doleful and furtive than a neglected, hardy plant border — not even THE DAWN OF SPRING a homeless dog. Of course, the withered shoots and March old flower stems ought to have been cut down and burnt ^"^5 many weeks ago. Let us hasten, with shame and remorse, to do it now. When they have all been cleared off, and the fire is crackling under them (we will light it on a day when the wind is not blowing straight towards the house), we shall feel more cheerful. The border clear, the next step is division, rearrange- ment, addition. We will drive a turfing iron, or a sharp spade, through the coarse clumps of Ox-eye Daisy, Goat's-rue, Sunflower, Michaelmas Daisy, and any other large, fast-spreading things, and, having divided them into several pieces, replant some of the outside portions in deeply dug soil, and cast out the weaker central pieces. We will arrange our kinds in groups, say, of three plants each in a triangle ; and see that each has room to spread its growth without getting entangled with its neighbours. As we work we will turn the soil to the full depth of the spade, and dig in some yard manure. But, perhaps, some of us have no borders to deal with ? Perhaps they have to be made ? This is a truly happy state — always provided that we have a bit of ground to dig, and a pound or two wherewith to buy plants. There is a joyful task before us. We need envy no one. We sniff scornfully at yachts, motor cars, airships, balls, operas, suppers, and routs ; we have something more attractive. The delight of making an herbaceous border never grows stale. When we have made one we want to make another, and if we have no more room we want to start making borders for our friends. We do not make higgledy-piggledy borders nowadays. We do not dig up a certain amount of ground and put THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March every hardy plant that comes along into it, thinking of ^"^5 nothing but height. We give careful thought to colour. We arrange our borders in our minds, and convince ourselves, before the plants are put in, that none will disagree with its neighbours. Some may suggest that this is just what the designer of the old " ribbon border " did, and that we are drifting back to the horrors of the bedding system, merely using hardy plants instead of tender ones. Of course we are not doing, and we do not intend to do, anything so crude. We see enough of ribbon borders and the bedding system still, and we shall avoid the mistake of aping them. Colour Schemes with Hardy Plants. — Let me give a few examples of colour groups, and show the plants which can be used for forming them. We can have neighbouring groups of mauve, red, and white. You may think that there are not sufficient mauve flowers ? Have you forgotten, among tall plants, Phloxes and Michaelmas Daisies and Erigeron Speciosum; and among dwarfer ones Verbena Venosa, annual Asters and Stocks (which can be bought in separate colours). Primroses, and Aubrietias ? Red flowers are, of course, abundant, and comprise both annuals and perennials. Here are a few, all good : Gladiolus Brenchleyensis is a really mag- nificent grouping plant, graceful in growth, and full of vivid colour. Dry roots can be got from the bulb dealers for three or four shillings per hundred. Lobelia Cardinalis and L. Fulgens are both handsome plants, growing about the same height as the Gladiolus (two to two and a half feet), and very bright. They had better be bought as young plants. Lychnis Chalce- donica is a very bright and cheap plant, reminding one of the Campion. If sown early it will flower the same 112 The Rose Campion, Agrostemma coronaria. THE DAWN OF SPRING year from seed, but plants can be bought cheaply. The March Bergamot (Monarda Didyma) has crimson, tasselly, I-^S perfumed flowers, and is an old favourite. Plants of it cost very little. Montbretias are free and graceful. There is also a red Delphinium — a dwarfish plant which has been rather overshadowed by its tall, blue sisters, that are now so much petted by hardy plantsmen. Its name is Nudicaule, and it can be flowered from seed sown early under glass, or bought as plants. The Poppies, both annual and perennial, are glorious. The great Papaver Orientale and its varieties are among the brighest of the latter class, and when their bloom is over, it is succeeded by that of the annuals, sown in April or May, and rigorously thinned by stages until the plants stand a full eighteen inches apart. Be sure, however, to choose double annual Poppies ; the singles are very brilliant, but they are soon over. Dwarf scarlet Nasturtiums, sown where they bloom, will come in admirably for the front. Our next group, white, will give us no more trouble ; or, to put it in a better and truer way, not less pleasur- able work. We have a splendid plant in the fine Ox- eye Daisy, Chrysanthemum Maximum King Edward VII., which we can buy cheaply, and we shall find will soon establish itself securely. Behind it we may set, if we like, white Hollyhocks. We must remember the white Phloxes, such as the splendid variety Tapis Blanc, and we must certainly also recall the white Canterbury Bell, procurable as seedling plants in spring, or to be raised by sowing out of doors in June. It is branching and free-flowered to a degree when thinly grown from the first, and will be perpetual if the fading flowers are picked off. The white Rose Mallow (Lavatera Alba) is somewhat less compact than the Canterbury Bell; in 113 H THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March fact, it is of somewhat straggly growth, but it is a plant ^~^5 which blooms long, late, and abundantly. Moreover, it can be had in the flowering stage in a few weeks from seed sown out of doors. Other good annuals are the white Godetia and white Candytuft, both of which flower freely, and hold their bloom well. White Stocks and Asters are the best of the half-hardy annuals, and these are raised from seed sown under glass this month. The ^giplf ••'^^ "% Fig, 31.— Grouping Herbaceous Plants. a. Positions for dwarf plants at the front, i- Positions for plants of medium height, c. Where to plant the tallest subjects. d. Grass or path, as the case may be. white Tobacco (Nicotiana Affinis), should not be for- gotten, as it flowers profusely ; it can be raised like the Stocks and Asters. Is the reader interested in this idea of arranging colour groups in his herbaceous borders ? If so, and he would like to carry it a little further, he can put a block of pink next to his white one, and follow with blue and yellow. We have several good pink flowers available. To begin with, pink is a colour fairly 11^ -2 o « 5 S Q 5 cs r^ P THE DAWN OF SPRING common in Hollyhocks, so that we can at once secure March something tall for the back. But almost more desirable ^~^5 still is the Sweet Pea. Countess Spencer is a brilliant pink, and the more freely the flowers are cut the longer the plants will bloom. The Rose Mallow is a medium height plant that has the great merit of large flowers and continuous blooming ; these tend to compensate for its rather straggly habit. The pink Canterbury Bell will be splendid in early summer, and a sister biennial that is somewhat dwarfer, but equally beautiful in colour, is the salmon-pink Sweet William. Pyrethrums and Paeonies give us some beautiful pink varieties, and both are early bloomers ; but the Pyrethrums are perpetual when cut over after the first blooming. Two very fine annuals are available in dwarf pink Godetia and Clarkia Elegans, both of which last well. Silene Pendula Com- pacta is a good dwarf pink annual. The pink Snap- dragon is magnificent, and can be grown from seed like an annual. It can be got tall, medium, or dwarf. The medium is the best. When we get to blue we think inevitably of Del- phiniums, grandest of all the blue flowered perennials. Their tall spikes are invaluable. There are many good blue Sweet Peas — none better, perhaps, than Frank Dolby as a garden variety. Helen Pierce is a good veined blue — a variety, too, of nice garden habit. One of the very best of blue-flowered plants is Nigella Miss Jekyll, an annual which may be raised from seed out of doors, and flowered in a few weeks. It is neither more nor less than a glorified variety of the blue Love- in-a-mist. The colour is delightful, the flowers are large, and the blooming is continuous till the autumn. This is a plant in a thousand. We can get deeper blue in Anchusa Italica,Dropmore variety, which is a favourite "5 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March with hardy plantsmen. Of quite dwarf plants we may I-15 take Forget-me-nots, Nemophila Insignis, and PhaceHa Campanularia, all of which can be raised from seed, the first in late spring for blooming the following year, the other two in early spring for flowering the same year. We do not get yellow in abundance among tall plants, but a Hollyhock of this colour can be got, and several of the Sweet Peas come near it, notably James Grieve, which is a good garden sort. The best early-blooming plants are the Leopard's Bane (Doronicum), the Globe Flower (Trollius), and the Wallflower Belvoir Castle or some other selected yellow. The yellow Columbine (Aquilegia Chrysantha) follows them closely. Among summer flowers of dwarf to medium height there are Snapdragon Yellow King, or some other selection of the same colour ; Coreopsis Grandiflora, Iceland Pop- pies, Calceolaria Golden Glory, and Carnation Daffodil, or some other good yellow. If a low plant is wanted for the front, Viola Royal Sovereign, or another good yellow sort, should be chosen. Hollyhock, Carnation, Viola, Leopard's Bane and Globe Flower can be bought as young plants in spring. All the rest can be raised from seed. To make sure of having the Snapdragon in bloom by mid-summer, the seed should be sown under glass in winter. Annuals in Herbaceous Borders. — It will be seen that I do not suggest the restriction of herbaceous borders to perennial plants. Annuals are very useful, because of their quick flowering from outdoor-sown seed, their bright colours, and their cheapness. When people get a little less conventional in their gardening, they will not hesitate to sow early-blooming annuals near late-bloom- ing perennials, and late-flowering annuals near early- 116 THE DAWN OF SPRING blooming herbaceous plants. When I say "sow," I March might perhaps say " sow or transplant from seed-boxes," ^"^5 because the broader expression includes the setting out of such things as Asters, Stocks, Verbenas, Phloxes, Petunias, Snapdragons and Indian Pinks, which are sown under glass in January, February or March, and transplanted to the borders in April, May or June. It is useful to have a "reserve plot" somewhere in the garden — a kind of " stores department " — of such seedhng plants. Raised under glass, they can be put out a few inches apart in the reserve garden in late spring, hoed to keep them growing and to suppress weeds, and drawn upon when any part of the border wants reinforcing, either owing to an unexpected failure, or owing to the fading of an early plant. Some Selected Perennials. — From the plants already named, the amateur could build up a very attractive border; but if he prefers the mixed system, he may be glad to have the names of a few good hardy herba- ceous plants, with a guide to their height and colour. All may be bought and planted in March or April. The lists, with notes to follow, provide the guide to the hardy plant catalogues which I promised in an earlier chapter. Very Low Growers Ajuga Reptans, blue Hepaticas, blue, white, and pink Anemone Apennina, blue Linaria Alpina, violet Arabis, white Myosotis (Forget-me-not), blue Aubrietia, rose, lavender, mauve, Omphalodes Verna, blue and purple Phlox Reptans, violet Campanula Pulla, blue Primroses and Polyanthuses Cyclamen Coum, rose Sanguinaria Canadensis, red Dianthus Alpinus, pink Silene Alpestris, white Draba Aizoides, yellow 117 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March 1-15 Dwarf Growers Achillea Clavennae, white Alyssum Saxatile Compactum, yellow Aster Alpinus (Michaelmas Daisy), purple Campanula Carpathica, blue „ „ Alba, white Corydalis Lutea, yellow Dianthus (Pinks), in variety Erigeron Aurantiacus, orange Geranium Endressi, pink Iberis (perennial Candytuft), white Inula Glandulosa, orange Meconopsis Cambrica (Welsh Poppy), yellow Ourisia Coccinea, red Plumbago Larpentae, violet Primula Denticulata, lilac Thalictrum Anemonoides, pink Trollius (Globe Flower), yellow Dwarf to Medium Growers Achillea The Pearl, white Adonis Vernalis, yellow Anthericum, white Aquilegias (Columbines), vari- ous colours Aster Amellus, purple „ Dumosus, mauve Calceolaria Golden Glory, yellow Chrysanthemums, in variety Coreopsis Grandiflora, yellow Doronicums, yellow Erigeron Manescavi, pink Evening Primroses, in variety Gaillardias, in variety Geranium Sanguineum, red Gerbera Jamesoni (Barberton Daisy), orange Geum Coccineum, red Hemerocallis, orange Heucheras, in variety Incarvillea Delavayi, crimson Lobelia Cardinalis, red Papavers (Poppies), various Phlox Canadensis, various Polemonium coeruleum, blue Primula Japonica, rose Pyrethrums, in variety Senecio Pulcher, purple Spiraeas, various Stokesia Cyanea Praecox, blue Tiarella (Foam Flower), white Medium Growers Alstromerias, in variety Anemone Japonica, and varieties Campanula Persicifolia, blue „ „ Alba, white Chrysanthemum Maximum, in variety Geranium Pratense, blue Gypsophila Paniculata, white Iris, German, various colours double Liliums, various Lychnis Vespertina, white Michaelmas Daisies, in variety Paeonies, in variety Pentstemons, in variety Phloxes, in variety Spiraeas, in variety Veronicas, in variety 118 THE DAWN OF SPRING Tall Growers Aconitum (Monkshood), blue Hollyhocks, in variety Asters, perennial, in variety Kniphofias (Tritoma), in variety Bocconia (Plume Poppy), cream Liliums, in variety Delphiniums, mostly blue Michaelmas Daisies, in variety Epilobium (Willow Herb), red Polygonum Baldschuanicum, Eremurus Himalaicus, white white Galega (Goat's Rue), lavender Romneya Coulteri, white and white Rudbeckias, in variety Gynerium (Pampas Grass),white Solidago (Golden Rod), yellow Helianthus(Sunflower), in variety Verbascums (Mulleins), yellow Christmas Roses, Crocuses, Crown Imperials, Daffo- dils, Gladioli, Galtonia (Hyacinthus) Candicans, Tulips, and other bulbous and allied plants will also prove useful. Half-hardy Annuals. — In our glance through the seed catalogues we saw that Asters, Ten-week Stocks, Neme- sias, Marigolds, Phlox Drummondii, and Zinnias could be procured in mixed packets, or in assortments of separate colours. The latter are only superior when colour grouping or bedding is desired. Early March is a good time to sow, because then there is a prospect of their being strong when the time comes for putting them out of doors. It is an advantage to have a hotbed, because the seeds germinate the quicker for bottom heat ; but they will grow in a warm greenhouse. The hints on sowing small seeds given in the first chapter may be followed. The great points are — (i) fine, moist soil ; (2) thin sowing ; (3) light covering ; (4) careful watering ; (5) abundant ventilation directly the plants come through ; (6) early pricking-off to prevent over- crowding. In the absence of a greenhouse, and if there is only one frame, it will be wise to defer sowing for a month, as it is dangerous to raise plants in a hotbed 119 March 1-15 March I-I5 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK frame and have nowhere to harden them. The seeds will germinate in an unheated frame in April. Propagating Dahlias. — With mild weather there may be signs of growth in the Dahlia stools that were taken up and stored in autumn. Should there be no such signs, the grower who wishes to get some shoots for early cuttings can easily stimulate the roots by putting them in heat. As soon as growth starts the tubers ought to be raised near the glass, so that the shoots may be kept short and sturdy. If the stools are left in a low, semi-dark place, such as under a green- house stage, the shoots become long and weak. The shoots make good cuttings when they are thickset, and about three inches long. They should be taken off without any of the neck to which they are attached, and inserted singly in 3-inch pots, in very sandy soil. They should be made quite firm. With warmth they will soon strike root. If kept near the glass (and in April they will be safe in a frame, with protection in frosty weather) they will extend slowly, but sturdily, and by the end of May will be about a foot high, strong, short-jointed, and just right for planting. Buyers of Dahlias should not try to get the plants from the nurseryman yet ; in the first place because he has not had time to get his stock prepared, Fig. 3«.— Propagating Dahlias. a. A cluster of old tubers. b. Young growths. C. One suitable for a cutting. d. Cutting prepared for insertion, «. Cutting inserted in a deep flower pot. ^-.-^^k^M iKP^^ll L -r^ ^?^^-i% V > ^^' 'm ^ . ^ J &:^' !! 1 *# S»# ^" %^|r^ i Nemesia strumosa Suttoni— a pretty and free-flowering half-hardy annual for greenhouse or garden. THE DAWN OF SPRING and in the second because, if he had, they could not be March planted for several weeks. But it may be desirable to ^"^5 order the plants now, for delivery in May, especially if new and scarce varieties are wanted, to avoid the risk of the dealer being sold out of special sorts required. Planting Roses. — In the autumn chapters I give the orthodox advice about planting Roses, but what of the amateur who, about to begin gardening, reads this book in spring ? He will want to know if he really must wait until autumn before he plants — if he actually must miss the whole of the season before him ? I hasten to assure him that he is under no such painful obligation. Nay^ more, I give him my unsullied word that I have planted many thousands of Roses, have planted the greater part of them, from force of circumstances, in spring, and had no failures worthy of the name, all that I have had to deplore being the loss of an odd plant here and there. I have never seriously assured myself that I prefer planting Roses in spring to planting them in autumn, it has merely happened that I have had to do so ; yet so uni- formly successful have been the results that I find myself not infrequently arguing in favour of spring planting with too-strenuous opponents of it. I do not aggres- sively assert that spring planting is superior to autumn, but if I hear a rosarian condemning spring planting in toto, I feel impelled to rise and crush him with figures. Of course he never is crushed, really ; one cannot abso- lutely squelch a rosarian — the most that one can hope for is his temporary subsidence under an avalanche of statistics. Spring is a wide term, and there is a world of difference, speaking horticulturally, between early spring and late spring. The greater part of June is spring, but who would plant Roses in June, except from pots? 121 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March Roses may be dug from the open ground, and planted, i~^5 at the beginning of spring, but not at the end. It is understood, therefore, that when I speak of spring planting I do not mean that outdoor Roses may be planted any time during the spring season. I use the term "spring" in the planting sense, and that is March and early April. All classes of Roses may be planted during that period — pillar, arch, dwarf, weeping, standard. The planter must be prepared to allow the nursery- man a little more latitude as respects varieties than he would in autumn. The dealer must be forgiven if he sends a few substitutes, because he has been selling Roses for several months, and it is not unlikely that he has sold out of a few popular sorts. Delay in planting is more dangerous in spring than in autumn, because hot weather is coming near. That is why the ground should be prepared as soon as possible — even in January or February, as our two first chapters advised. With the soil quite ready the plants can be put in immediately they come, unless the ground is frozen, or too wet, in which case the first opportunity should be taken. The holes need not be deep ; it suffices if the roots are just covered. The soil should be trodden firmly amongst them. Pruning Newly-planted Pillar or Wall Roses. — If an amateur rosarian were to ask one particular trade grower whether he ought to cut back newly-planted pillar, arch, or wall Roses, the expert might cry : " Certainly not ! " If the amateur were to ask another nurseryman, the latter would probably answer with equal emphasis : " By all means." Poor amateur gardener ! What is he to do ? How is he to decide which of the two is right ? I think I can help. I have noticed that those experts who are THE DAWN OF SPRING against the cutting back of climbing Roses have a rich, deep soil, and live in a district where they commonly get rains in late spring. Those conditions favour speedy establishment and rapid growth. The growers who favour cutting back have a drier and less fertile soil, in which the plants only establish themselves slowly. If a horse has an uphill journey, we give him a lighter load than if he has a level road before him. The root system of a Rose with a number of long shoots, each furnished with several scores of buds, which want sap sent up from the roots, has a heavy load. If the soil is rich and rains come, the road is level ; if the ground is dry and poor, the road is hilly. In the former case the burden can be borne, in the latter it is too heavy, and should be re- duced. Is it clear now ? I have often found amateur rosarians with poor land reluctant to cut back newly- planted Roses, but I never yet found one who, when he at last screwed himself up to do the deed, regretted it afterwards. When I speak of cutting back I really mean it. It is not a case of snipping off an inch and a quarter of the tips with a small pocket-knife or a pair of nail- scissors, but of cutting the plants back to within six inches of the ground. The only Roses that I would except are the very vigorous Roses of the Wichuraiana class, of which Dorothy Perkins, Alberic Barbier, and Ruga are shining (literally shining — look at the glossiness of the leaves) examples. These Roses have such marvellous root-power that no load is too heavy, and no hill too steep for them. They have strength, and speed, and stamina in a degree that no other class possesses. As far as dwarf and standard Roses are concerned, I unhesitatingly advise severe pruning for newly-planted trees. You are told, or you read in some learned publi- cation, that some varieties only need light pruning. That 123 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK is all right enough — I have said the same thing myself. But you are to observe, please, that it applies to estab- lished plants, and that I am now speaking of newly- planted ones. Some quick-witted reader may throw my parallel about the burdened horse and the character of the road at me, and demand to know why what applies to pillar, arch, wall, and pergola Roses should not apply to dwarfs and standards also. I admire the sharpness, but I ask the critic to think a moment longer. Ah I he sees it, of course. We want something clothing that pillar, that arch, that wall, that pergola, from the very first, if we can get it. And we are so anxious that it should not go bare a moment longer than is necessary, that where we can strain a point we do. The lateral shoots of all dwarf and standard Roses should, I think, be pruned back to within three or four buds of the base soon after planting, whatever the soil, and whatever the variety. This severe early pruning is like the billiard player's "miss in baulk." It is a policy of avoiding risks. It is "playing for safety." At billiards our opponent may reply with another safety miss, but Nature never does that with Roses. She responds with bold play. She lays herself down to work, and plays sweeping strokes with power and pre- cision. The little buds on the stumps which we have left soon break into stems and green leaves. They are an inch long, six inches, a foot; there are actually flowers ! And all in a few short weeks. The Early Pruning of Established Roses. — With a mild February, the Roses which we already have in the garden may be fairly in growth when March opens ; indeed, in mild districts they are almost certain to be moving. Naturally, the question of the annual pruning 124 THE DAWN OF SPRING crops up. In those learned publications which I have referred to I do not think that the inquiring amateur will ever find that pruning is discouraged entirely ; it is merely a question of degree. Practically all Roses are the better for pruning of some sort, and the really practical question is not, " Shall we prune ? " but, " How much shall we prune ? " Well, I leave even the latter for a moment, because I recognise that the point of time is also important. The beginning of March is certainly too early to do the annual pruning in any district where there is danger of a late spring frost. The harder the pruning, the more dangerous it is to prune early. Mark that the result of pruning is to stimulate the slow moving lower buds. Wise Nature has arranged that the back buds shall be later in starting than the front buds, and if the shoots, which the latter push early, are injured, there is a reserve down below. But if the grower prunes hard early he starts the back buds, which are then no longer reserves ; they are the " fighting line " itself, and if they are crumpled up by a withering fire of April frost the case is desperate. I grant that Roses which are breaking strongly in March should be pruned, but I do not think that they should have the regulation " annual pruning," unless, indeed, they are sorts which would not be pruned much in any case. The early pruning of Roses that are to be cut hard should be limited to removing the growing tips. The full pruning may be done a month later. Good Roses for Beds. — For the benefit of those who are planting Roses in spring, I may give the names of a few vigorous, free-blooming varieties, which are good for beds and groups, classified according to colour. The letters after the names indicate the sections, thus : H.P., Hybrid Perpetual ; H.T., Hybrid 125 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March Tea; T., Tea-scented; C, China; P., Polyantha ; R., ^""•^5 Rugosa. Light Crimson Charlotte Klemm (C.) Hugh Dickson (H.P.) Corallina (T.) ^Richmond (H.T.) Ecarlate (H.T.) Deep Critnson Charles Lefebvre (H.P.) Princesse de Sagan (T.) *Gruss an Teplitz (H.T.) Warrior (T.) Marquise de Salisbury (H.T.) Yellow and Copper Gustave Regis (H.T.) Madame Melanie Soupert (H.T.) Joseph Hill (H.T.) Madame Pernet Ducher (H.T.) Lady Roberts (T.) *Mrs. Dudley Cross (T.) ♦Leonie Lamesch (P.) Souvenir de Pierre Notting (T.) Marone Abel Carriere (H.P.) *Xavier Olibo (H.P.) Rose Lady Ashtown (H.T.) *Madame Abel Chatenay (H.T.) Lady Battersea (H.T.) Madame Jules Grolez (H.T.) Pink Betty (H.T.) Killarney (H.T.) Caroline Testout (H.T.) La France (H.T.) Conrad F. Meyer (R.) Lady Ashtown (H.T.) ♦Earl of Warwick (H.T.) Mrs. John Laing (H.P.) Edu Meyer (H.T.) *Mrs. W. H. Cutbush (P.) WJiite and Blush Antoine Rivoire (H.T.) *Peace (T.) *Frau Karl Druschki (H.P.) *Prince de Bulgarie (H.T.) *G. Nabonnand (T.) White Maman Cochet (T.) * For a smaller number, take those marked with an asterisk. The include both early and late bloomers. 126 THE DAWN OF SPRING Climbing and Weeping Roses. — Climbing Roses, suit- able for arches, pillars, pergolas, walls, and summer- houses are abundant. Varieties suitable for growing as standards, and drooping their branches, are less numerous. Climbing Roses Alberic Barbier, white Felicitd et Perpdtue, white Carmine Pillar, carmine Madame Alfred Carrifere Crimson Rambler, red (wall), white Dorothy Perkins, pink Mrs. F. W. Flight, rose Weeping Standard Roses Alberic Barbier, white Hiawatha, red and white Dorothy Perkins, pink Planting Carnations. — It is not of vital importance that Carnations be planted during the first half of March, and yet I think that the earlier in the spring (remember March and early April are the spring planting season) that they are planted the better. I write this with an eye both to those who have been wintering plants in frames which were layered in the garden last summer, and to those who are making a complete start by buying a stock of plants. It may be pointed out that present planting exposes the Carnations to the risk of late frosts. It does, but what of it ? The plant is not really tender, like a Dahlia or a Begonia. It is intrinsically hardy. True, Carnations are killed sometimes in a very severe winter, as other reputedly hardy plants are, but there is not likely to be a frost in spring severe enough to hurt them. The advantages of early planting are twofold. In the first place, the plants are removed from the comparatively enervating atmosphere of the frames ; and in the second, they have ample time to get well established before the hot weather comes on. I advise that the bed be well dug, and, if the soil is stiff, that 127 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March some wood-ashes and mortar rubbish be dug in. I~I5 Manure will not be needed in such ground, but in the case of poor, dry, shallow soil a dressing will be advantageous. Where the soil is rich the plants should be put in two feet apart, but eighteen inches will suffice in poorer soil. They should be planted firmly, and later on, when the flower stems rise, supplied with stakes. Wire out rabbits. In making a choice of Carnations, amateurs should take care to select varieties which not only produce nice flowers, but are also good growers. Here are the names of a few such : Agnes Sorel, dark crimson Lady Nina Balfour, light pink Barras, scarlet Mrs. Eric Hambro, white Daflfodil, yellow Queen of Bedders, pink Henry Falkland, yellow ground Raby Castle, salmon pink Hildegarde, white Sir R. Waldie Griffith, apricot A Hint about Wireworni. — The mention of Carna- tions reminds me to give a hint about that inveterate enemy of this and many other beautiful and useful plants, the wireworm. Does the reader who is be- ginning gardening realise that he will have some diffi- culties to encounter? I hope so, because then he will not suffer disillusionment. Many forget that plants have enemies, both insect and fungoid, which have to be fought and subdued, or the garden will be a failure. There is no ground enemy more destructive than wire- worm. It is about an inch long, yellowish in colour, and as thick as a pin's head. It is so hard that no ordinary pressure hurts it, but a determined grinding between the boot heel and a stone generally suffices. Many people hate the idea of killing anything, by open contact at all events, and they will be glad to hear of a preparation which, if put into the soil in accordance THE DAWN OF SPRING with the advice of the manufacturers, will destroy the March enemy in the ground. It is called Apterite, and it can ^~^5 be bought from nurserymen. One often sees it adver- tised in gardening papers. And a Hint about Slugs. — What the wire worm is under ground, the slug is above it — a voracious, ex- asperating enemy, with no limits to its appetite. The slug has its favourite dishes, but if they are not about he will make shift with something else, and the some- thing else may be a special plant. I countenance no parley with slugs — no armistice, no white flag. It is war to the bitter end — a war of extermination. The slug gives no quarter, and must receive none. Alas ! that anything associated with gentle gardening should arouse this spirit of destruction in us ! I will listen patiently to any homily which a humanitarian may think fit to address to me because of this bloodthirsty talk, but no slug had better presume on it to get in my way after- wards. The mildest human being can boil up on occasion ; it is only a case of getting provocation enough, and of all aggravating things the destruction of a bed of seedlings by slugs is the worst. One can better endure an all-round decline in one's investments. The particular hint that I was going to offer about slugs was to scatter Sanitas powder on the soil among the plants. Slugs simply loathe it, and if it is used will retreat on neighbours' gardens in disgust. We can all endure slugs in our neighbours' gardens very well. Failing Sanitas, try repeated dustings of dry lime at night. Both require renewal after rain. Violas for Beds and Borders. — The Viola is on the same plane as the Carnation. It is a hardy plant that is often grown under glass during part of its life. It is common, for instance, to take cuttings of Violas in 129 I THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March the autumn, and insert them in a frame. They take ^"^5 advantage of mild spells to push roots, and by March are generally transformed into young growing plants. Owners of such, and buyers of plants, will be wise to put them out during the first favourable weather in March. They make very pretty beds, and may be used as principals if desired ; but they are often used as a carpeting for beds in which larger plants are grown. They also come in admirably for margins to beds and borders. Amateurs should give special attention to these plants, because freedom of growth, profuse blooming, brilliant colours, and long duration of beauty are united in them. In rich soil the plants should be inserted a foot apart, in poor ground nine inches. The following will be found good varieties : Councillor Waters, purplish Primrose Dame, primrose crimson Royal Sovereign, yellow Duchess of York, white Seagull, white Ithuriel, azure True Blue, blue J. B. Riding, rosy purple William Neil, lavender Sweet Violets in Spring. — Violets are often put into frames in autumn, in the hope that, with manure and rich soil under them and glass above, they will yield flowers during mild spells right through the winter. This they do in abundance if the right sorts are chosen. The plants grow freely in spring, and the opportunity should be taken of increasing the stock. It will pro- bably be found that some of the sorts have what gardeners term " offsets " around them — subsidiary growths that are nearly, but not quite, individual plants. They are tufty growths, with a few roots at the base. Take them off, and insert them firmly, preferably in a position where there is shade during the hottest part 130 * THE DAWN OF SPRING of the day. In other sorts the outer growths may be March more Hke "runners," being small growths, with in- I~I5 cipient roots, quite clear of the mother plants. These will root where they are if the soil is pressed around them, and when they are established they can be planted out. The amateur will be wise to propagate most of the following varieties : Single Double La France, metallic blue Comte de Brazza, white Princess of Wales, violet Marie Louise, lavender Seedling Begonias and other Choice Flowers. — It is in the very early stages of small-seeded plants like tuberous Begonias, herbaceous Calceolarias and Gloxinias that the most care is required with seedlings, as they are very liable to damp off. I have already said that careful ventilation and watering are highly important. Attention to these matters must be continued now that the little plants have got beyond the most dangerous stage, as they have a great bearing on the progress of the seed- lings. The plants should never be allowed to stand in a crowded state, never be flooded with water through a spout, never be shut up in a close, warm case. They should be set out three or four inches apart directly they begin to thicken into a mass, watered through a fine rose, have a light position close to the glass, and receive as much air as can be given without subject- ing them to cold draughts. When pricked-off plants begin to crowd in the boxes, each should have a 3-inch pot, from which they can be transferred to a 5-inch or 6-inch when they have filled the former with roots. Three parts of loam, and the remainder of leaf mould and sand in equal parts, will make a suitable potting compost. 131 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March VariousTubers. — Those who have tubers of Begonias, I~I5 Gloxinias, Caladiums, Gesneras, Streptocarpuses, or Achi- menes may start them into growth now. I Hke to lay the tubers in moist cocoa-nut fibre refuse in a warm house or frame, and keep them there until the shoots have pushed an inch, then to pot them. So far as the Begonias which are to go into outdoor beds are con- cerned, they need not be started in heat, as there is no advantage in getting the plants very forward — the con- trary, because they cannot be put out for several weeks, and when made tender by heat they have to be kept in possibly overcrowded houses, when, otherwise, they would be quite safe in a frame. Bedding Plants.- — I have elsewhere said that the " Bedding system," which hardy plant lovers thought had been decently interred years ago, is still very much alive. I do not favour it, but have to take facts as they are. Doubtless there are many among my readers who have, or intend to buy. Zonal Geraniums, yellow shrubby Calceolarias, blue Lobelias, and other tender plants used in summer flower beds. The bedding out man " feels the lash " in spring. His plants may not have been taking up much room during the winter, and therefore have caused no overcrowding, but with mild weather in spring they will begin to grow. Cut- tings of Geraniums crowded in boxes will begin to extend ; old plants that were cropped in and packed close together will begin to throw out shoots. This extension of growth leads to much pressure on space, and causes one of the chief cultural drawbacks to the home propagation of tender bedders. The plants may be potted, or put a few inches apart in shallow boxes. They ought to be placed on shelves, or other- wise found a position near the glass. Where there is THE DAWN OF SPRING a shortage of stock, cuttings of Coleuses, Lobelias, March Ageratums, and Verbenas may be struck now. ^"^5 Those who intend to buy the stock of bedding plants which they require need not do so now, as it will give them the trouble of preserving the plants for several weeks. May will be early enough. Ferns Graceful and popular Ferns like the Maidenhair, the Ribbon, the Hartstongue, the Spleenworts, the Lady, the Male, the Ostrich, and the Royal are grown in many thousands of gardens, some being cultivated under glass, and others out of doors. Probably Fern-lovers increase in numbers every year, certainly the species and varieties do. It is always a matter of interest to look over a collection of Ferns at one of the great flower shows, picking out old favourites, and jotting down the names and descriptions of new-comers. If it is a hot day we linger a long timet because the very look of the Ferns seems to cool us. By an association of ideas we find ourselves among the wet stones of some Cornish cave, or in a shady Devon- shire lane. In some private gardens one finds an indoor Fernery — a cool and humid retreat where cunning hands have devised a large, irregular cave from imported boulders in so ingenious a way that one is almost cheated into the belief that it is natural. Graceful fronds spring from niches, water plashes down into rocky pools. Eye and ear are alike pleasantly and slumberously beguiled. Most people love Ferns as much for the readiness with which they lend themselves to tasteful association with flowering plants as for their own intrinsic beauty. 133 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March Perhaps the Fern speciaHst will not fall into line here ; 1-15 he may consider that his favourites are being treated as " supers " where they should be " principals," and object to any suggestion that the primary use of Ferns is to serve as a foil for flowers. Need he be thus sensi- tive ? I think not. Ferns are beautiful, and well worth growing for themselves, but provided they are not kept long in draughty or ill-ventilated places they will not suffer from association with flowers. Fern interest bounds into active life in spring, because then new growth is beginning. The old fronds may be a little rusty or tarnished, but there are small, brownish- green balls at the base, slowly unfolding under the in- fluence of warmth, and reminding us that the fresh green fronds will soon furnish the plant, and give it new life. It is whengrowth is starting that Ferns can be best divided, and division is a ready means of propaga- tion which amateurs need not hesitate to avail themselves of. The Adiantums (Maidenhair included) are easily increased in this way. They should be turned out of their pots and a knife passed right through the ball from top to bottom, dividing it into two or more portions, which may then be potted afresh. Equal parts of peat and fibrous loam, with a liberal admixture of coarse sand, suit Ferns well. The compost should be pressed firmly round the balls. That popular room Fern, Asplenium Bulbiferum, forms tiny plantlets on its fronds. The juveniles form near the tips, and consist of a little dark ball from which a tuft of small fronds spring. It is interesting to note the tiny new fronds beginning to uncoil at the base. They may be seen at mid-winter. The plantlets will grow if set in soil like seedlings. If it is desired to merely repot Ferns, without 134 H Q THE DAWN OF SPRING propagating them, the lower half of the ball of soil and March roots may be cut away, the loose soil crumbled from the ^'^5 shoulders, and the reduced ball packed firmly in fresh soil in the same size pot. This plan saves the necessity of procuring larger pots. It is wise to shade and syringe Ferns after repotting them, so as to give them every chance of becoming re-established quickly. They must, of course, be per- manently shaded when the hot weather comes on. Fruit The work indicated for the latter half of February may be continued in March. Pruning and planting should be completed, as before the month is out many trees will be starting growth. Pruning Nuts. — If Filbert and Cob Nut trees are now examined it will be found, probably, that small reddish flowers are open on side shoots springing from the main branches. These are the fruiters, or female flowers. The male element is supplied by the long yellow " cat- kins," from which the pollen is blown when it is dry. The pruning of Nuts should be deferred until the red- dish flowers are open, and dry pollen is present, simul- taneously. After fertilisation, any long shoots which are bearing female flowers may be shortened to the incipient fruit, but short, bearing shoots may be left unpruned. Shoots that bear catkins alone may be cut right back after fertilisation. Early Vines. — Vines in houses that were started recently will be pushing freely now, and any superfluous shoots should be removed before they have extended more than a couple of inches, at which stage there will be no difficulty in choosing which to remove and which J^5 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March to retain. As a rule, one lateral for every foot of main I~I5 rod will sufBce, and they should be alternate on opposite sides. The laterals form from buds on spurs close to the main rod, and it is when more shoots break than are required to provide the specified allowance that thinning out, or "disbudding" as it is termed, is called for. Shoots from the bottom of the rod are technically faulty, even if they are strong, because they are badly placed, and will be troublesome to tie down later on. These should al- ways be dispensed with if possible. Careful attention should be devoted to the ventilation of early vineries. The houses are not half full of foliage yet, and a cold wind cutting through them would cause con- siderable injury, especially after the temperature has been run up by an outburst of hot sunshine. Do not open ventilators on the windward side in rough weather, and those on the other side need not remain open long. The house should be closed when the sun leaves it, but in any case by 2 P.M. Stop fruiting shoots (see Fig. 33). Peaches and Nectarines, — Houses in which the trees are in bloom should be ventilated if possible, and kept somewhat dry, as this favours the maturation and dis- persion of the pollen. The latter process will be facili- tated by shaking the wires to which the shoots are tied. 136 Fig. 33.— Stopping Vines, The fruit-bearing shoot stopped three leaves beyond the bunch, h. Lateral growth stopped at the first leaf. The well-know OWN FORCING STRAWBERRY AUGUSTE NiCAISE. THE DAWN OF SPRING A temperature of 50° to 55° will be suitable at this stage. March Screens of tiffany or scrim (these are line forms of ^~^5 canvas sold by large seedsmen) or fish netting should be prepared for placing in front of outdoor Peaches which are showing flower or are in bloom. Early flower- ing is not desirable out of doors, and the canvas can be used during sunshine to keep the buds back ; also, when the flowers actually open, to protect them from . ' frost at night. Disbud later trees (see Fig. 34). Apricots may be protected in the same way as Peaches and Nectarines. Strawberries. — Forcing under glass, and planting in the open, may continue as in the latter half of February. The hints given there apply. In thinning the berries, first remove any under-sized or badly-shaped ones. Liquid manure will be helpful to the plants which are swelling up their crop. The various pro- prietary fertilisers sold by the seedsmen are good, and so is superphosphate, used at the rate of an ounce per gallon of water. Vegetables In light soils, and on warm sites, the sowing of various kinds of vegetables may proceed, notably Peas, Broad 137 Fig. 34.— Disbudding Peaches, Fig. I shows at a the young buds to retain, and at b those to remove ; c, flower buds. Fig. 2, the branch duly disbudded. Fig. 3, a fully developed flower. Fig. 4, a shoot bud growing freely. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March Beans, Turnips, Spinach, early Carrots, Onions, Parsley, ^"^5 Brussels Sprouts, Lettuces, and Radishes. Potatoes may be planted. On heavy soils and cold sites it may be wise to hold all these crops over. The state of the soil is the principal factor. Early Cabbages. — Cabbages from sowings made last summer ought to be growing freely now, and they can be expedited by running a hoe between the rows at frequent intervals, and by sprinkling the lightest possible dressing of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia between the plants. These salts burn, and must be kept off the leaves. Soot is a safe and good fertiliser for Cabbages, and may be used instead of the salts, but its action will not be so quick. If summer Cabbages are wanted, a sowing of seed may be made out of doors now. Improved Non- pareil is a suitable variety, and all seedsmen sell it. Solving Peas. — A wide drill about three inches deep should be made when Peas are being sown, and sowing should not be done at a greater rate than one pint of seed to twenty yards of drill. The seed should be scattered well over the drill, so that the plants may not come up crowded ; if they do they should be thinned until they stand quite clear of each other. In view of probable trouble from vermin, it is prudent to moisten the seed in paraffin oil before sowing it. Gradus, William the First, Ideal, and Chelsea Gem are all good early Peas. The first three grow from three to four feet high, the last grows about fifteen inches. Where more rows than one are sown, it is the rule to have them as far apart as the plants grow high, and to sow Spinach and Turnips in narrow drills between if the rows of Peas are more than three feet apart. Early Turnips. — The Early Milan in those districts where it succeeds, and the Snowball where the Milan 138 THE DAWN OF SPRING does not thrive, may be sown for the first crop of Turnips. Both the varieties named have agreeable flavour. The seed should be sprinkled in very thinly, and covered about an inch. After the drill has been filled in, the soil may be trodden quite firmly, as though the crop was one of Onions, unless it is so damp as to bind closely. Sowing Onions. — One or two rows of a useful, keeping kitchen Onion, such as Ai, James' Keeping, or White Spanish, may be sown out of doors if the soil is in a favourable state. It will have been prepared previously by digging and manuring. The drills should be an inch deep and a foot apart. After the seed has been sown (thinly of course), the ground may be trodden hard, and then be scratched over very lightly with a rake ; deep raking would neutralise the effects of the treading. Seedling Onions in boxes, raised as advised in a previous chapter, must have attention. Dryness of the soil, and crowding, should both be carefully guarded against ; the latter is better avoided by thin sowing than by thinning the plants, but some must be thrown out if there are too many. The plants should be shifted from the seed boxes to cutting boxes about four inches deep when they are three inches high, and set out three inches apart. If raised in heat they ought to be hardened in a frame before being planted out in April. Young Tomatoes. — Seedling Tomatoes raised by sow- ing a few weeks ago must be attended to. They ought to have a position close to the glass, and receive abund- ance of air in favourable weather, so that they may keep strong and sturdy. Thin them if crowded, and when they have made a pair of ordinary cut leaves in addition to the seed leaves, they may be set out five inches apart in boxes about six inches deep. More seed may be 139 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK sown in pots, pans, or boxes, and put in a greenhouse or frame, preferably the former. Early Salads. — Lettuces and Radishes ought to be sown as early in March as the weather will permit, for the sake of providing Salads in late spring. Radish seeds can be sown broadcast in any sheltered reserve plot. It is prudent to prepare the soil by reducing it to a fine tilth, and cover the seed about an inch deep. It will be necessary to cover the bed with fish netting, or to otherwise protect it from birds, otherwise the crop will be a failure. Red Turnip is a good variety for this sowing, and it may be followed by one of French Breakfast. As regards Lettuces, it will be well to sow in drills a foot apart, and cover with half an inch of soil. This crop should be protected also. The seedlings can be trans- planted before they become crowded. By running a hoe between them once a week, they can be kept growing rapidly, and weeds subjugated. Superb White Cos is a good variety to choose for this sowing. Broad and French Beans. — The principal sowing of Broad Beans may now be made out of doors, given a suitable condition of the soil. The seeds may be set eight inches apart in rows thirty inches asunder in rich soil, and six inches by twenty-four in poor land. They may be covered three inches deep. The ground should be well manured. Exhibition Longpod is a good variety to choose. Another sowing of a selected variety of French Beans, such as Ne Plus Ultra, may be made in large pots or deep boxes, and put in a house with a temperature of 60° to 70°. Plenty of water should be given, and liquid manure may be supplied twice a week when the pods form. The latter should be gathered early, in order to avoid their becoming old and checking the plant. 140 THE DAWN OF SPRING Early Carrots. — Carrots are favoured by light, friable March soil, and in such a medium seed may be sown out of ^~^5 doors early in March ; but in heavy soil, especially if in exposed places, the conditions are hardly likely to be favourable at present. The ground does not need manure, but it requires just as much mechanical treatment as may be necessary to reduce it to a thoroughly friable con- dition. This object should be achieved, if possible, without the addition of disintegrating substances like cinders. The finer the particles of soil, the more likely the Carrots are to be clean and well-shaped. Wood- ashes may be sprinkled in the drills when sowing, and it is not a bad plan to mix them with crushed oyster-shells^ which can be bought from many manure dealers at a low rate. The drills may be drawn fifteen inches apart, and the seed covered with an inch of soil. Early Gem, Guerande, Model, Summer Favourite, Stump-rooted, and Scarlet Perfection are all good varieties, and it does not matter which of them is chosen. Planting Potatoes. — If sets of early Potatoes have been treated as advised in a previous chapter — that is, sprouted in shallow boxes, they ought to have shoots on them now an inch long, thick, green or purple, and firmly attached to the tuber. Such prepared sets may be planted a foot apart in rows two feet asunder, and covered with six inches of well-pulverised soil. Planting so early is quite practicable in light, friable, fairly dry soil, in a sheltered place; but there need be no hurry to plant in heavy, damp soil, or in cold situations. Well-sprouted sets will not deteriorate in their boxes as long as they are kept in a light place, and safe from frost ; indeed, they will be as good in April as they are now. Sharpe's Express, Ring- leader, Ashleaf, Duke of York, May Queen, Ninetyfold, and Midlothian Early are varieties from which a choice HI THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK may be made. All are good. Two ounces of super- phosphate of lime and one ounce of sulphate of potash may be used per yard of drill when the sets are planted. Hot Beds. — Early March is a good time to make up a hot bed, and those who do not possess a heated green- house will find such a convenience of great advantage in bringing on Tomatoes, Celery, Cucumbers, Melons, Vegetable Marrows, and various half-hardy and tender- flowering plants from seed. A considerable part of the bed should consist of fresh stable manure, without which it would not be possible to get the necessary heat, but some leaves may be added, preferably Oak or Beech. The manure ought be shaken out and turned two or three times before it is made up into a bed, and then trodden down firmly to a depth of three feet, and covered (save for about a foot all round) with a glass frame. Pots or boxes may be stood on the manure when the bed feels comfortably warm to the hand, and the air in the frame smells quite sweet. Cucumbers, Melons, and Vegetable Marrows may all be sown singly in small pots. MARCH-Third and Fourth Weeks The second half of March will not be less busy than the first, and may be far more so if the weather in the first half is unfavourable for gardening, as is often the case. The latter part of March frequently gives that mixture of warm, sunny days and dewy nights which is so good for gardening. The soil dries and mellows, the air grows sensibly sweeter and more genial. The fact that such conditions are sometimes followed by bad weather in April should not deter the amateur from sowing in March if he gets a good chance, rather should the fear of it act as a stimulus to him, and induce him to 142 THE DAWN OF SPRING push on soil preparation and sowing as rapidly as is March consistent with good workmanship. IO-31 Herbaceous plants may be propagated and planted. Hardy annuals may be sown. The planting of Roses may be completed. All fruit planting should be finished before March is out. Most kinds of vegetables may be sown. Flowers It is unnecessary to repeat what was said in the first section of March about preparing and planting herba- ceous borders. This task is one which will afford pleasurable occupation in favourable weather at any time in March. Chrysanthemums for Borders. — Florists' Chrysanthe- mums form such a beautiful class that it is small wonder that the flower gardener casts covetous eyes upon it, and wants to know if he cannot make some use of it in his borders. As a late summer and autumn flower the Chrysanthemum has only two formidable rivals, the Dahlia and the Michaelmas Daisy. The former is not an ideal border plant ; moreover, it is tender. The latter is of the highest merit. But fine as they are, there is no reason why Michaelmas Daisies should monopolise the garden in autumn. They have their places in the border, and fill them worthily; but Chrysanthemums can be added without displacing any other plant by adopting the simple plan of growing them in a reserve bed, and when early plants in the borders fade, cutting them to the ground, and transferring the Chrysanthemums from their temporary quarters to the neighbourhood of the decapitated plants, whose good work they will carry on most admirably. In view of the potential usefulness of Chrysanthemums in this respect, it is satisfactory to find 143 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March that they will bear transplanting quite well, even when 1^31 they are in an advanced stage, and approaching the flowering period. If the Chrysanthemum is sometimes overlooked as a flower-garden plant, it is perhaps more because amateurs have got into a way of associating it with conservatory decoration and with exhibitions, than because there is any doubt of its beauty. Perhaps this reminder that it is really hardy, really beautiful, really amenable to trans- plantation at a comparatively late stage, will serve to convince many an amateur of the magnitude of a mis- apprehension which leads to the exclusion of so glorious a plant as the Chrysanthemum from modern flower gardens. In speaking of the Chrysanthemum as hardy, I do not overlook its not uncommon habit of dying out annually on heavy, damp, clay soils. I have had experience of that myself. But I am by no means sure that it is an unmixed evil. The clumps of Chrysanthemums which one sees in cottage borders make a brave display in autumn, and the brilliance of their colours often cheats us into overlooking their scraggy habit and puny flowers. These plants are not really cultivated. They look after themselves. The result is not bad, but it is open to im- provement. Personally, when I found myself stirred into the annual renewal of border Chrysanthemums by cuttings, owing to the losses through winter damp in heavy land, I did very much better with both plant and bloom than I had done on the leave-alone system. A simple way of getting a stock of healthy young plants is to cut back a few plants in autumn, put them in pots, and keep them in a cool house, or on a bed of ashes in a frame, through the winter. When they start growing in spring the young shoots can be taken off at 144 THE DAWN OF SPRING about three inches long, inserted in sandy soil, and kept March close until they begin to grow, then given abundance of ^^0-31 air. By making a correct choice of varieties, bloom can be got in succession for nearly three months. Rockery Plants. — The rock garden is full of interest in spring, and now is the time to go over it carefully, restricting here, propagating there, making additions both of stones and plants. One of my own rockeries is neither more nor less than a nearly perpendicular loose stone wall, which was put up to sustain the soil of a "cutting." I recall the debates as to the best plan of dealing with the cutting when it was first made. Should it be " battered " at an obtuse angle, and turfed ? Should it be covered with shrubs ? Or should it be faced with rock? An intelligent builder turned the scale ; and here let me say, out of gratitude, that builders are not at all such terrible Vandals as they are supposed to be, nor do they hate gardens with the virulence which is accredited to them. They really have souls, and are by no means devoid of a sense of beauty. A great deal of the harm that they do they cannot help. It is a necessity of their work that ground should be cut up, and stacks of bricks built, and the place sown with mortar morasses. I am convinced that they often feel really sad when, in the addition of a new wing to the house, they spoil a pretty garden corner. I mention my rock wall because it may convey a useful suggestion to others. It has done many degrees better than I ever expected that it would. To begin with, the soil of the bank was very poor, near chalk. Then, the angle being acute, very little rain could beat in. According to all the canons of rock-plant culture, a failure was to be expected. Nothing of the kind has happened. Nearly all of the sixty or seventy kinds put 145 K THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March in have established themselves, and some have spread 16-31 a good deal. The stone used is a fairly hard Kentish "rag." This is not an ideal stone, but the quality of the metal varies in different quarries, and I appear to have struck a good vein. One thing in favour of rag is that plants like it. It is a limestone, and they appear to enjoy getting their roots down to the base of the pieces. Of course, there is a good thickness of soil at the back of the plants, and although the crevices between the stones are small, the plants have a deep rooting area, such as it is. The liking which many plants have for lime induces me to wonder how far we may expect chalk or limestone to compensate for what we call " poor " soil. I call my thin soil over soft chalk poor, because it lacks humus, and fruit and most vegetables grow with very little vigour in it. But soil that is poor for fruit and vege- tables is apparently by no means poor from the stand- point of low-growing plants. They do not require so much humus, nor so much moisture, as plants with much expanse of leafage. I make these remarks in full cognisance of the orthodox advice (which I have re- peated myself before now) that rock plants should have a liberal allowance of fibrous loam. They certainly need it in a rockery, where the soil has to be made up, but apparently not so much in a bank, where there is considerable " back run " for their roots. The lover of rock plants who looks them over in spring with a view to propagation sees that they differ a good deal in their habit of growth. Some of the clumps consist of a series of shoots springing separately from the soil, almost like a Michaelmas Daisy. It is obvious that these may be increased by division. Parts of the clump may be cut away, and pressed into the T46 THE DAWN OF SPRING crevices which are bare. In rock walls "planting" in March the ordinary sense is impossible, and one could hardly I0-3I expect a plant that had so insecure a hold to thrive. But with a good squeeze in, and a handful of moist earth pressed after them, they manage to retain their place, and soon anchor themselves securely with their own roots. One odd bit so thrust in developed in such an astonishing way on my wall, that it attracted the attention of a pair of wagtails, who regarded it as splendid cover. Any way, they found a comfortable ledge under its long streamers, built a nest, and reared a brood. Some rock plants are not easily propagated by division, because the growth (and it may form a considerable mass) is found to depend from one long tough stem. Cuttings or seeds must be resorted to in these cases. The following are good plants for rockeries ; Spring Bloomers Alyssum Saxatile Compactum Gentians American Cowslips Iberis (Perennial Candytuft) Anemones, dwarf kinds Irises, dwarf kinds Antennaria Narcissus, small kinds Arabis, single and double , Omphalodes Verna Aubrietia, various colours Phloxes, dwarf kinds Cerastium Primulas Dianthus (Alpine Pinks) Saxifrages, many kinds Dog's-Tooth Violets Soldanella Alpina Edelweiss Summer Bloomers Acaena Dianthus, several species Achilleas Geraniums, hardy Androsaces, several species Helianthemums (Sun Roses) Arenaria Balearica Lithospermum Prostratum Aster, dwarf Alpine Onosma Tauricum Campanulas, dwarf kinds Poppies, Iceland Convolvulus Mauritanicus Primulas, various kinds March 16-31 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Swnmer Bloomers. Saxifraga Hypnoides Sempervivums (Houseleeks) „ Longifolia Silenes Sedums (Stonecrops) Veronicas Various bulbs, such as Colchicums, Crocuses, Cycla- mens, Irises, and Snowdrops, will give bloom in autumn and winter. Some Carpeting Plants The above lists give an indication of the genera available at different seasons, I may now specify a few plants that are particularly valuable for forming large masses, drooping over the stones in a broad sheet of blossom. Such plants will be useful alike on orthodox rockeries and on steep rock banks such as my own. Alyssum Saxatile Compactum. — A free-blooming, yellow-flowered plant, easily raised from seed in early summer for flowering in late spring of the following year. Arabises or White Rock Cresses. — The old singles are the best for the particular purpose in view, but the double is a better plant for borders. Aubrietias. — The varieties Leichtlini, Fire King, and Dr. Mules are all good. The commoner Aubrietias and Arabises are as easily raised from seed as the Alyssum. Campanula Muralis. — A pretty violet species, flowering in the summer. Cerastium (Snow in Summer). — There are two species, Bieber- steinii and Tomentosum, both of which spread an abundant mat of silvery foliage over the stones, and bear white flowers. They can be raised from seed. Convolvulus Mauritanicus. — A blue and white species, which twines about the stones and produces beautiful flowers. Coronilla Varia. — A rosy trailer, which flowers in summer Dianthus Deltoides (Maiden Pink). — A charming rosy Pink which blooms in summer. There is a white variety of it. Epigaea Repens (May Flower). — A dense, close evergreen, with sweet, white flowers in sprine : somewhat scarce. 148 X o < S u tL. O o « M < THE DAWN OF SPRING Gypsophila Repens. — A white summer bloomer; the well-known March G. Paniculata, the flowers of which are used a good deal in 16-31 floral decorations, is a totally different plant. There is a rose- coloured variety of Repens. Helianthemums or Sun Roses. — These ramble freely, are ever- green, and flower more or less all through the summer, com- mencing in late spring. The flowers are produced abundantly, are large, and are of many beautiful colours. A great point in favour of the Sun Roses is that they will thrive in hot, dry positions. Those who are particularly interested in this useful class might get a few of the best named varieties, such as Golden Queen, Magenta Queen, Pink Beauty, Snowflake, and Mrs. C. W. Earle. The names are a guide to the colours except in the case of the last, which is crimson. These varieties are not dear. Iberises or Perennial Candytufts. — Some of these are evergreens, and flower profusely in late spring and early summer, forming dense white cushions, which may be several feet across. They enjoy sunshine, but do not object to shade for a part of the day. Sempervirens is the most popular species, and there are several special varieties of it, such as the double (Flore Pleno), Gar- rexiana (with very large flowers), and Little Gem, dwarf. Leontopodium Alpinum (the Edelweiss). — A white Alpine of very dis- tinct appearance, which spreads into broad cushions and flowers freely. There is a large variety of it called Himalayanum. Linarias or Toad Flaxes. — There are several charming kinds of this pretty genus, notably Alpina, violet with yellow centre ; Cymbalaria, the Kenilworth Ivy, lilac and orange ; and the white variety of the latter species. They trail and flower freely in summer. Lithospermum Prostratum is one of the best of trailers for rock- work. It is evergreen, it grows freely, it bears its flowers abun- dantly for several months, and the colour is a rich deep blue. Mossy Saxifrages, notably Saxifraga Hypnoides and its varieties, such as Purpurea, with dark red flowers ; and Rosea, with rosy blossoms, are dainty plants, forming a close carpet of foliage dotted with pretty flowers. Mountain Thymes (Thymus Serpyllum and its varieties), of which Albus, white, and Coccineus, crimson, are desirable, are of prostrate habit, spread freely, and enjoy sunny places, even if dry. Dwarf, early flowering bulbs like Scillas, Narcissi, and Irises may be planted among the Thyme. 149 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March 16-31 Rock Plants for Shade The great majority of rock plants love sunshine. It is one of the life-giving elements of the Alpines in their mountain homes. Rock gardens should never be made in shade, but where a natural rockery exists it may be beautified by adding a few carefully chosen plants. The following will thrive in shade, if they are not sub- jected to the constant drip of water ; Adonis Vernalis. — Yellow, a dwarf spring bloomer. Anemone Pulsatilla. — The silky purple Pasque Flower, a spring bloomer. Anemone Sylvestris, white. „ Nemorosa, blue, white and rose, charming little spring bloomers. Auriculas, Alpine. — In many varieties, spring bloomers. Corydalis Nobilis. — Bears yellow flowers most of the summer and autumn. Cyclamen Coum.— An exquisite little rose-coloured species, which may be planted in autumn, and will bloom freely in winter and spring. Cypripediumsor Lady's Slippers. — Hardy terrestrial Orchids, which love a moist, shady position and peaty soil, Calceolus, brown and yellow; Macranthum, rosy purple ; Pubescens, downy ; and Spectabile (Moccasin Flower), with lovely pink and white flowers, are amongst the best species. Dodecatheons (American Cowslips). — Pretty bulbs, which may be bought and planted in autumn. Ferns of many kinds, notably the Lady Fern in variety. The Ostrich and Royal Ferns are magnificent in special positions, but are much too large for small rockeries. Funkias (Plantain Lilies). — Also need special places, as they are too large for association with ordinary rock plants. Galax Aphylla. — A white summer bloomer. Gaultheria Procumbens. — White flowers in summer and red berries in autumn. Gentiana Verna. — A spring bloomer with brilliant blue flowers. Hepaticas. — Blue, rose and white, single and double, exquisite little plants, which will thrive under trees. p < o ^ o >. < u ^ g < K O THE DAWN OF SPRING Iberis Sempervirens, and its varieties. March Iris Cristata. — Blue, spring bloomer. 16-3I Mertensia Virginica. — Blue, spring bloomer. Myosotis (Forget-me-not). — Of several kinds, such as Alpestris, Rupicola, Dissitiflora, and Sylvatica. Omphalodes Verna. — Blue, a spring bloomer. Ourisia Coccinea. — A very distinct and pleasing little plant, with scarlet flowers, quite dwarf, and blooming in late spring. Parnassia Palustris. — White flowers in summer, a great lover of moisture. Polemonium Reptans. — Blue, spring bloomer. Polygonum Afifine. — Rose, dwarf, a summer bloomer. Some of the Polygonums are very large plants, and could not be used in rockwork. Polyanthuses and Primroses. — Best raised from reliable strains of mixed seed in early summer for blooming the following year. Primula Japonica. — Purplish rose, thrives in moist spots near water. Primula Rosea. — Bright rose, thrives in moist spots near water. Ramondia Pyrenaica. — A beautiful Alpine, with lilac-blue flowers in summer. There is a white variety, which is dearer than the species. Ranunculus Amplexicaulis. — White, a spring bloomer. Saxifraga Granulata Flore Pleno. — White, spring, a free-blooming, very useful plant. Shortia Galacifolia. — White, spring, a dainty little plant. Sisyrinchium Grandiflorum. — Purple flowers in spring. There is a white variety. Album. Soldanella Alpina. — A blue spring bloomer. Spigelia Marylandica. — Crimson, a summer bloomer. Tiarella Cordifolia (Foam Flower). — White flowers in spring, a very graceful plant. Trillium Grandiflorum (Wood Lily). — A lovely white-flowered bulb that may be planted in autumn for flowering in spring. References to other beautiful kinds will be made from time to time in the various chapters. Marguerite Carnations. — These are a minor class to the Carnation specialist, as China Roses are to the rosarian, and Cupids to the Sweet Pea exhibitor. But 151 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March they are pretty, and it is a point in their favour that ^^31 they can be grown as annuals — that is, flowered in the same year as they are sown. It is, however, desirable to sow the seed in a warm house, or in a heated frame, in order to get the plants started quickly. They can be pricked out in boxes, like other seedlings raised under glass, when they begin to get crowded, and hardened in an unheated frame. Bulds after Flowering. — Some of the earlier bulbs, such as Freesias and forced Narcissi, may be going out of flower, and this should not be taken as the signal for immediate drying off. On the contrary, the plants should be watered until the foliage ripens naturally. So far as the Narcissi are concerned they may be planted out of doors, so as to get the use of the boxes or pots in which they are growing, and to save the necessity of regular watering. But the Freesias may be kept in their pots until the warm weather comes, then shaken free from the soil and spread on a shelf in the full sun. The roasting will ripen them thoroughly, and they will bloom well again the following winter. Insects in Plant Houses. — Increasing hordes of insects now show themselves on various plants. The ubiquitous green fly, which has powers of reproduction that surpass the best efforts of our most prolific plants, attacks Cinerarias, Tulips, Roses, and other popular plants. The Aphis also establishes itself on Carnations, and injures the leaves. Insects are apt to be a great worry to amateur gardeners, who shrink from the tedious work of cleansing individual plants. Let me assure them that houses can be kept entirely free from those ex- asperating little pests by a very simple plan, and that is to make a rule of burning a vaporising cone in the house once a fortnight. The operation takes very little 152 THE DAWN OF SPRING time, and it is not at all disagreeable ; moreover, the March cones are inexpensive. All seedsmen and florists sell 16-31 them. The sizes vary, to suit the size of the house ; if the seedsman is given the length, height, and width of the house, he will supply the proper size at once. If the house is one leaning against a wall, the height of the front eaves and also the height of the back where it is attached to the wall should be given. If the structure is a span roof, the height to the eaves and also to the ridge should be quoted. These figures enable the mean height to be calculated, and if this is multiplied by the length, and the result of that sum is again multiplied by the width, the total will represent the number of cubic feet in the structure. The reason why I recommend periodical vaporisation with the cones, is that insects have no chance of spread- ing. They are always kept in thorough subjection. There should be a fixed day for the operation, and it should be entered in the garden diary — the first and third Mondays in each month, or some similar arrange- ment. The course indicated prevents injury to the plants, and saves the cultivator worry and annoyance. Fruit Continue the work previously indicated for the various kinds of indoor fruit. Peaches and Nectarines in unheated houses will pro- bably be in bloom now, and the wires may be shaken in order to scatter the pollen. In dull weather the fertilising powder does not spread so freely as is desirable, and a camel-hair brush should be drawn across the flowers, in order to insure the distribution of the pollen. It is an excellent plan to vaporise the house with one of the cones 153 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March referred to in the last paragraph under " Flowers " as 10-31 soon as the blossoms have fallen, because it keeps down aphides, which are very destructive to Peaches. Guard against the admission of cold draughts, which would predispose the trees to an attack of blister (see pre- vious remarks). Disbud the shoots after the fruit has set in accordance with instructions in previous chapters. Protect outdoor Peaches from frost. Note the hints in the earlier chapters with respect to managing Grape Vines and forcing Strawberries. Grafting The process of grafting is an interesting and useful one. By means of it we can turn an unsatisfactory variety into a satisfactory one. I do not contend that grafting will remove every difficulty in fruit growing. It will not remedy the ill effects of bad pruning, for example (see full remarks on pruning in a previous chapter). It is not the proper treatment for trees which are barren because they are growing too strongly at the roots ; it is root-pruning which is needed here. But it will often turn an unhealthy tree into a healthy one. Ill-health in a fruit tree is frequently due to the fact that the variety is too delicate for the soil. Graft with a more robust variety, and the tree speedily improves. Where fruit trees are cankered, or generally weak, first study the soil. It may need draining or manuring. If neither is the cause, hesitate no longer, but put a new variety on to the tree by grafting. Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries may all be grafted, but it will be found, probably, that the two last kinds do not often need changing. Apples, as the most largely grown of the quartette, and the most likely to suffer from 154 THE DAWN OF SPRING canker, may be chosen as an example of the procedure March to be adopted ; the process is the same with the other 16-31 kinds. The time may differ somewhat according as the tree is an early or late grower ; Cherries generally move before Pears, and Pears before Apples ; and it is when the buds on the lower part of a tree begin to swell that the grafting should be done. This generally occurs in the latter half of March or the first half of April. Let me take the various points. Varieties of Apples for Grafting. — It is no use choos- ing a weakly variety for use as a scion. We must select a strong one — a sort that grows freely and healthily. Here are a few such varieties ; Annie Elizabeth Lord Derby Blenheim Orange Peasgood's Nonsuch Bramley's Seedling Stone's Ecklinville Seedling AUington Pippin Emperor Alexander Baumann's Reinette Worcester Pearmain The last three are dessert varieties ; all the others are cookers. How to Prepare a Tree for Grafting. — Carefully examine the tree, and fix on a number of shoots springing from the forks of the main stem at points where they (the shoots) are healthy, free from knots, and about two inches thick. It is not necessary that all be on the same level — in fact, it is an advantage if those towards the centre of the tree are on a somewhat higher level than those outside. Cut back to the points chosen with a saw, clear away the top-hamper, trim the stumps clean with a sharp knife, and make two slits down the bark two inches long, on opposite sides of the stump. Raise the edges of the bark by tapping down a thin, hollow, wood- carving chisel (not a carpenter's or iron chisel, which 155 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March would split the bark), and then withdraw it to make way 10-31 fQj- tj^g scion. How to Prepare Grafts. — Take portions of last year's growth that were removed in pruning, and laid in a shady place (see previous remarks on pruning), and cut them into short lengths, each with four buds on it. Pare down the lower inch and a half with a sharp knife, leaving a right-angled shoulder at the top, and then press each scion down into one of the slits until the shoulder rest on the top of the stump. Tie the grafts securely in with raphia (a tying material procurable from all seedsmen and florists), folding it evenly from top to bottom, and then paint over with wax. Receipt for Grafting Wax. — Take between four and eight parts of resin, two of beeswax, and one part of tallow ; and melt together over steady heat. The quantity of resin must be regulated to give a paint-like mixture. Paint on with a brush while hot. The wax will set at once. Vegetables Sowing for the main supply of the year should be in progress soon, and with the soil in a crumbly state it may be done during the latter half of March. Broad Beans may be sown at the depth and distance previously advised. Broccoli. — If a supply of Broccoli is wanted in autumn a packet of seed may be sown now, an early variety, such as Self-protecting Autumn or Michaelmas White, being chosen. These, and Greens generally, may be sown in rows a foot apart, drawn in fine soil on a reserve plot. The seed should be sprinkled in very thinly, and covered with about half an inch of soil. The soil between should 156 THE DAWN OF SPRING be hoed to keep down weeds, and the seedhngs thinned March if they come very thick. 16-31 Borecole or Kale. — The various kinds of this vegetable are useful for winter, as they are very hardy, and are rarely killed in the most severe winters. Seed may be sown now, and treated the same as Broccoli. Dwarf Green Curled is a good variety. Brussels Sprouts, — An invaluable vegetable for autumn and early winter, seed of which may be sown now, like Broccoli ; Sutton's Exhibition is a splendid variety. Carrots. — A few rows of Intermediate Carrot may be sown. This type is the most generally useful, as it grows to medium size, is of good shape, and thrives on most soils. But those who have the choice of different kinds of soil should give Carrots light, very friable ground, without rank manure. Rough, lumpy, damp, and freshly- manured soil does not suit them. The rows may be eighteen inches apart, the seed sown thinly an inch deep, and the seedlings thinned by stages until they stand about four inches apart. While hoeing between the rows is good, it is advisable to keep the soil near the tops of the young plants close and firm, in order to exclude the Carrot fly, which would otherwise go down and lay eggs, with the result that maggots hatching therefrom would injure the crop. Celery. — Seed of Celery for winter and spring supplies may be sown now. Mild bottom heat, such as that of a hot bed under a frame, favours germination, but the plants will come through, although a little slower, in a greenhouse. Prepare fine soil in a box or pan, as previously advised, sow very thinly, and cover about half an inch. When the seedlings are two inches high they may be set four inches apart in boxes, and kept until early June, or such time as ground is available 157 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March for making the trenches. Standard Bearer is a good 16-31 red variety. The Turnip-rooted (Celeriac) is good for cooking. Chicory. — Gardeners grow this vegetable mainly as a winter salad, but the Brussels or "Witloef" makes a delicious spring vegetable when forced and cooked like Seakale. Seed of Chicory may be sown now to yield roots in autumn, which, lifted then and put into boxes or large pots, will push foliage suitable for salads. Cucumbers. — I have already spoken of sowing Cucumbers for early crops. The plants thus raised are generally grown in houses, later supplies only being taken from frames. They (the house plants) ought not to be stopped, but the growth tied to a stake inserted in the pot. When the plants are about a foot high they may be planted in mounds of soil made up two feet apart on slates on the stages. Three points should be observed in connection with these mounds : (i) they should be only just large enough to cover the roots, more soil being added as the plants grow ; (2) the soil should not be in line particles, but in lumps ; (3) it should be warmed by being placed in position in the house a few days prior to planting. Seeds may now be sown for yielding plants to grow in frames. They should be raised in warmth, such as on a hot bed, in a propagator, or in a warm house, and have the tip pinched off when they have made two pairs of rough leaves, to encourage them to form side shoots. When the plant is put out, which should be on a mound of earth in the centre of a manure bed in the frame, the side shoots can be trained over the bed in different directions, and overcrowding thus avoided. Improved Telegraph is a suitable variety. Egg Plants^ Capsicum, and Chilies. — Although these 158 THE DAWN OF SPRING plants have their culinary uses, principally in condi- March ments, British gardeners use them more as ornamental 16-31 plants. They all bear attractive fruits, and may be mixed with flowering plants in greenhouses. The seed can be sown in a greenhouse now. Endive. — Plants sown in the previous summer, with Lettuces, to yield spring salads, may now be encouraged to grow by hoeing. Fresh seed may be sown if an early summer supply is wanted, but it should be sown in a greenhouse or frame, and the seedlings planted out later on. Gourds and Pumpkins. — Gourds and Pumpkins are sometimes grown in gardens with an eye to both ornament and use — the former predominating. The plants are often trained on rustic fencing, or arches or pergolas, and when well furnished with large leaves, and carrying a number of large, handsome, and perhaps highly-coloured fruits, they have an effective and un- common appearance. The fruits may be cooked and eaten in the same way as Vegetable Marrows, if desired. Herbs. — All of what are known as " Sweet and Pot Herbs" may be sown in spring. A few of the most popular kinds are : Angelica, which is cooked, and the seeds used for flowering ; Balm, for use as a decoction in fevers ; Sweet and Bush Basil, used for flavouring ; Borage, employed for flavouring beverages ; Curled Chervil, mainly used for salads ; Fennel, used in sauces ; Lavender, mainly for making Lavender water ; Pot and Sweet Marjoram, both used for flavouring; Parsley, for garnishing ; Rampion, employed as a winter salad ; Sage, used for flavouring; Summer and Winter Savory, both used for flavouring ; Sorrel, used for salads and flavour- ing ; Thyme, used for flavouring. It is best to get roots of Mint, Lemon Thyme, and Tarragon. 159 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March All the herbs which are raised from seed may be I0~3I sown in a sunny spot, not too damp. In wet soil and in shady places the plants grow, but do not mature well. The seeds of most kinds may be sown in drills a foot apart, and the plants subsequently thinned and hoed. Corn Salad is useful in winter salads, and may be raised from seed in spring. Kohl Rabi is generally regarded as a farm crop, but seedsmen supply selected varieties that are well worth growing in the kitchen garden. They are similar to Turnips, but the flavour is distinct, and is highly agree- able. The plant has one great advantage over the Turnip, that it will generally succeed in dry, light soil in hot seasons, when turnips would run to seed, or be hot and strong in flavour. The seed may be sown thinly in drills eighteen inches apart, and the plants thinned to a foot apart. The leaves spring from the body of the bulb on various parts of the upper half. Leeks. — I have already said that it is a good plan to sow Leeks under glass in winter, and to transplant them later on, like Celery. Many people will hardly consider the crop worthy of this, and others will lack sufficient room. The seed may be sown an inch deep out of doors in spring in drills a foot apart, in a spare plot, the rows hoed, thinned, and the plants put out when ground becomes vacant in summer. Musselburgh is a reliable variety. Lettuces. — More Lettuces may be sown for early summer salads. There is a wastage of Lettuces owing to the plants running to seed quicker than they can be used if many are grown in one batch, hence the advisability of sowing frequent small successional rows. A pinch of seed may be sown fortnightly henceforth if a constant supply is wanted. Those who like the 1 60 THE DAWN OF SPRING upright (" Cos ") Lettuces the best may sow the Superb March White. Favourite and Continuity are good varieties of 16-31 Cabbage Lettuce. The soil in the seed bed should be made fine, the drills drawn a foot apart and half an inch deep, the seed sprinkled in very thinly, protection from birds provided in the form of fish netting, the ground hoed regularly, the plants thinned to prevent crowding, and the seedlings transplanted to positions along borders, or between Pea rows, when they are about three inches high. Mushrooms. — Note the remarks on making beds in Chapter IL A bed may be prepared now, and the earlier the better. Mustard and Cress. — Successional sowings may now begin in the open air. The principal trouble with the outdoor sowings is that particles of soil are apt to get into the plants, making the salad gritty. This may be avoided to some extent by making the soil exceedingly fine, and only just covering the seed. Onions. — The principal crop may now be sown out of doors, if the plan of raising the plants in boxes under glass in winter (see previous remarks) is not preferred. The soil should have been made deep and rich by bastard trenching and manuring in the manner already recommended, but this work may still be done. The surface should be well pulverised when the soil is dry enough to crumble, so that a fine sowing tilth can be secured. It is not desirable that the seed should be covered more than an inch deep. Nine inches will be a sufficient distance between the rows for small, hard, long-keeping sorts like James's, Brown Globe, Bedford- shire Champion, Blood Red, Danvers' Yellow, White Spanish, and White Lisbon ; but larger varieties, such as Ailsa Craig, Cranston's Excelsior, and A i should 161 L THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March have at least a foot — more if they are transplanted from 16-31 boxes. The ground must be made quite hard after sowing. Parsnips. — The Parsnip crop requires a friable soil, not recently manured. The seed may be sown an inch deep in drills eighteen inches apart, and the plants thinned to nine inches. The seed is light and flaky, so that it is easily blown about. For this reason the grower must either avoid sowing on a windy day or mix the seed with soil before scattering it in the drills. Some growers economise seed by sowing a cluster of three seeds at every nine inches of drill, and thinning the resulting plants down to one. Tender and True is a splendid variety. Peas. — Choice Marrowfat Peas may be sown now for yielding dehcious dishes at the end of June and early in July. The best of soil should be allotted to this important crop — soil that has been bastard-trenched or deeply dug and manured liberally. I say " has been," but it is never too late to improve soil, and rather than sow in thin, poor land by all means set to work now. As a matter of fact, many excellent gardeners consider that spring is the best time to prepare heavy, damp land. The surface soil should be crumbled, and wide drills drawn three inches deep. As mentioned in a previous chapter, it is wise to protect the seed from vermin by moistening it in paraffin oil previous to sowing. If trouble should occur in spite of that, bait some traps with Peas strung on wire, and place them about the rows, as the losses are probably due to field mice. Birds can be kept away by black threads or fish netting. Centenary, Duke of York, Stratagem, Duke of Albany, and Senator are all good varieties. Any may be chosen. Pea sticks should be ordered wherewith to support the plants later on. 162 THE DAWN OF SPRING Potatoes. — Many gardeners plant the bulk of their March Potatoes in the latter half of March, and there is 16-31 certainly no objection, provided that the soil is friable and merely damp, not "cloggy." The ground is bene- fited by digging deeply and giving a dressing of good yard manure at the rate of two barrow-loads per square rod ; the manure should be turned quite under, so that it is out of contact with the tubers ; the feeding roots may be trusted to find it. Wide drills about three inches deep may be drawn. For early sorts they may be twenty-four inches apart, for late ones twenty-eight. A handful of chemical manure, consisting of three parts superphosphate and one part sulphate of potash, may be spread on each yard of drill. The seed sets may be put in twelve and fourteen inches apart respectively. I have already said that sets of about two ounces in weight are suitable, and they may be planted uncut, save for slicing a bit off the end to see that the flesh is free from brownish streaks ; if the latter are present the set is unsound, and ought not to be planted. If the early sorts have been " sprouted " in boxes in accordance with previous advice, so much the better. After the drills have been filled in, the loose soil beside the rows may be drawn over them in a ridge three inches high. Sharpe's Express (early), British Queen, Windsor Castle, or Snowdrop (succession), and Sensation (late) are good varieties. Radishes. — The earlier sowings may be succeeded by others at fortnightly intervals, the seed being sprinkled broadcast on fine, moist soil, covered an inch deep, and protected from birds with black thread or fish netting. French Breakfast is a good variety for present sowing. Rhubarb. — If it is desired to raise Rhubarb from seed, a sowing may be made now, in drills an inch deep and 163 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March a foot apart. The crop will not be ready for three years, ^^""31 and if a supply is wanted next year " crowns " must be planted in spring, three to four feet apart according to the variety, in deep, rich soil, and covered four inches. They may cost from five shillings to seven-and-sixpence a dozen. Champagne is a good small early variety, and Victoria a very fine large late one. Salsify and Scorzonera. — The conditions suitable for sowing Carrots and Parsnips will be good for Salsify and Scorzonera, which are minor tap-root crops. The seed may be sown in drills an inch deep and a foot apart, and the plants thinned to nine inches. Each has a very distinct flavour, and Salsify (the " Vegetable Oyster ") is greatly appreciated by some people. Seakale. — I have already spoken of forcing Seakale under cover ; let me now say that if earth, or ashes, be heaped over the outdoor plants to the height of about a foot, a natural process of forcing will be started that involves very little expense, and yields very good produce. The stems will grow up within the covering material, and when they have extended some eight or nine inches the earth may be removed and the produce cut. Pieces of Seakale root about as thick as the Httle finger, and double the length, may now be planted eighteen inches apart in deep, rich, friable soil. The tips should be left level with the surface. These ought to give produce strong enough for forcing next winter. Seed may be sown now, to give plants strong enough for forcing three years hence. Shallots and Potato Onions. — There should be no further delay in planting these, as it is already late. Planting bulbs of Shallots cost about a shilling a pound, of Potato Onions about sixpence. The former may be set out nine inches apart, the latter fifteen mches. Seed 164 THE DAWN OF SPRING of Shallots may be sown now, but the crop will not be March ready until the following year. 16-31 Tomatoes. — Plants raised from seed sown a few weeks ago may now be three to four inches high, with a pair, or perhaps two pairs, of cut leaves. They should be set about five inches apart in boxes, or put singly in small pots, and given a light, airy position, so that they may keep sturdy. A flower stake may be put to them when they need support. The tips should not be stopped, but every little side shoot which forms on the main stem, in the socket of the leaf stalk, should be nipped out directly it is large enough to be caught between finger and thumb. Seed may be sown in a frame or greenhouse now, to yield plants for the main crop. Sunrise is a good variety. Turnips. — Fortnightly outdoor sowings may be made henceforth, if a succession of roots is wanted. The seed may be sown broadcast in a spare plot, or in rows between Peas, in drills half an inch deep, covered and promptly rolled or well trodden. Protect with threads or netting to keep birds off, and thin the seedlings early. Snowball and Veitch's Red Globe are good varieties. The former may be chosen for present and the latter for later sowings. Vegetable Marrows. — Seed may be sown now for the main crop. One seed will be enough for a small pot. The pots should go into a hot-bed frame or heated greenhouse. Long White and Pen-y-Byd are good varieties, but if early fruit is wanted, the Bush should be chosen. The Garden in March— A Resume March March is the dawn of the gardening year. Vegeta- Resume tion becomes active. Trees and shrubs break into 165 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK March growth. Herbaceous plants begin to move. Roses — swell their buds and even break into leaf. Early bulbs ^^^"'"^ bloom. Herbaceous borders, which are the principal feature of modern flower gardens, may be taken in hand, all dead growth removed and burnt, the stools divided, the ground dug and manured. New borders may be made, and, if desired, the plants may be arranged in special colour groups. Rockeries may also have attention. Plants may be divided if more are needed, and if they are adapted to this method of propagation. New rockeries may be made, and furnished with selected plants, calculated to bloom at different seasons of the year. Carnations may be planted, and Marguerite Carna- tions sown. Bulbs that are going out of bloom should have at- tention, and not be dried off prematurely. Plant houses may be vaporised periodically from the present time in order to keep insects in subjection. Half-hardy annuals may be sown under glass. Dahlias and Cannas may be propagated. Tubers of Begonias and Gloxinias may be started. Seedling plants raised by sowing in winter must be pricked off, watered carefully, and given abundance of air. Vines and Peaches which are in bloom under glass may be fertilised. Vines which have recently started may be disbudded. Peaches which have set their fruit may be disbudded. Hardy fruit trees may be grafted when the buds begin to swell. The varieties for grafting should be carefully selected. Most kinds of vegetables may be sown or planted if 1 66 THE DAWN OF SPRING the weather is favourable, and the ground in a suitable March state, notably Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Brussels — Sprouts, Carrots, Celery, Chicory, Cucumbers, Endive, ^^^""^ Gourds, Herbs, Leeks, Lettuces, Mustard and Cress, Onions, Parsnips, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Rhubarb, Salsify, Scorzonera, Seakale, Shallots, Tomatoes, Turnips, and Vegetable Marrows. 167 CHAPTER IV LATE SHOWERS AND EARLY FLOWERS April When *' February fill-dyke " has played its traditional part, the April garden is full of promise. The well- moistened soil promotes a strong flow of sap. Shrubs and fruit trees burst their fat buds. Bulbous plants, which love moisture above everything, and rarely get enough of it, grow into large masses and bloom pro- fusely. But April showers are welcome, especially to those gardeners who have soils which get steely under the influence of cold, harsh March winds. The rain softens the hard lumps, and enables the cultivator to crumble them with his tools ; and showers are very welcome to the seedlings which are now coming through, both in flower and kitchen garden. There is no greater stimulus to young crops than a shower and a hoeing. Observe how the plants leap after rain and soil-loosening. They "jump" in a way that gladdens the grower's heart. The rain sets the sap moving with fresh supplies of food ; the hoeing lets in air and uproots weeds. I have already said that the gardening year ought to begin in winter, because the rougher work, such as pre- paring soil, making lawns and forming paths, can be done with greater deliberation and thoroughness. But many amateurs make their annual start in April, and my advice to them is to resolve, by prompt and resolute action, to make the most of every fine spell in the month i68 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS of showers. Let them set-to at their soil with a will, April deepen it, manure it, and push on their pruning, planting, and sowing with real gusto. Hours wasted in the earlier months may be made up sometimes, but in April lost moments are never found again. APRIL— First and Second Weeks April Flowers Planting and Pruning Roses. — Early April is the latest period of the spring when it is safe to transplant Roses. Even now it will be well to syringe them after planting if there is no rain, in order to check evapora- tion from the leaves that will probably be forming. Indeed, the amateur will be wise to go further, and cut the plants back to dormant buds near the base of the stems. Some good varieties were described in Chapter III. The pruning of established Roses "' ... 1 1 i. J 1 • Fig. 3S.— Planting Roses. ought to be completed early m " , . . o ^ ■' c. The roots spread out in April. I have already said that the hole ready for growers who are not familiar with the varieties will do well to prune hard, but as to this I should like to take the opportunity of speaking more fully ; dealing first with dwarfs and standards. The old-time rosarian, who grew mainly for exhibition, was a notorious hard pruner. He cut his plants practically away, reducing the shoots to mere stumps of three or four inches long every spring. The modern grower has revolted against this, and the ten- dency nowadays is to prune lightly, especially in the case 169 April I- 15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK of strong-growing sorts. The hard pruning of former days was not wholly wrong, from the point of view, and with the class of variety, which prompted it. Indeed, I would recommend its imitation even now for weak Roses, especially if show flowers are wanted. Roses with twigs no thicker than macaroni may be cut back hard — every shoot to within three or four buds of its base — each spring. The modern system of light iV pruning would be carried (j/j to undesirable extremes if 7/ weak growths were trifled '•^ with. Perhaps some weak Roses have already been partially pruned, in pur- suance of the hints given in my last chapter ; let the work be completed now to the extent here indicated. The disposition to prune Roses on the whole more lightly than was formerly the case has sprung into being as a natural result of the introduction of a considerable number of Teas and Hybrid Teas. These new-comers have a much more vigorous habit than the majority of the old Hybrid Perpetuals, which once held the sway. They form long, strong shoots — approximating, in some cases, to those of recognised climbers. When these shoots get well ripened, they are quite capable of developing subsidiary shoots, on which flowers are borne. Varieties of this type do not need severe annual 170 Fig. 36.— Pruning Dwarf Roses. a. How to prune a dwarf Rose of medium strength. b. How to prune one of strong growth for exhibition flowers. If grown for garden effect it need not be cut so low by one-half. c. A small basal shoot which must be cut away entirely. Prune to buds pointing outwards. LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS pruning ; in fact, they are injured by it, because the wood has got so hard near the base that fresh growths do not break freely from it. Only the small shoots on the plant need be cut back ; the large ones may be left unpruned, or at the most have the unripe extremities removed. One sometimes reads that Hybrid Perpetual Roses should be pruned hard, but Teas and Hybrid Teas lightly. I think that b. this is taking an incor- rect view. It is not the class to which a variety belongs, but the char- acter of its growth, which should decide the degree of pruning. A Tea Rose should be pruned equally as hard as a Hybrid Perpetual if it is of similarly weak growth ; indeed, some Teas (Cleopatra, for in- stance) may be pruned harder than some Hy- brid Perpetuals — notably Fran Karl Druschki. Universal hard pruning is only advisable in two cases — (i) just after planting, (2) after injury by frost. Newly- planted Roses are the better for being pruned hard. Frost-bitten Roses must be cut back, and back, and back until the pruner comes to white pith. It is not, as a rule, wise to prune either dwarf or standard Roses annually to a greater extent than remov- ing the tips if the branches are half an inch thick. Only thin-wooded ones should be cut hard. 171 April 1-15 Fig. 37. — Pruning Pillar Roses. a. Roses on one pillar properly pruned. b. The Roses on another pillar unpruned ; the dark lines show where the pruning must be done. c. Leading shoots which must not be cut off, but tied to the chain. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April With respect to climbing Roses, the common idea ^~^5 that pruning is inadvisable is wrong. Pruning may not be absolutely necessary, but it is certainly advantageous. One reads that Crimson Rambler, Gloire de Dijon, William Allen Richardson, Reine Marie Henriette, Dundee Rambler, Dorothy Perkins, I'ldeal, Felicite et Perpetue, Ards Rover, and the rest of the charming sisterhood of pillar, arch, and wall Roses do not need pruning. If by "need" we are to read that they are not benefited by it, the advice is entirely wrong. I do not think that any exact rule can be laid down. To say either "prune" or "do not prune," and go no further, is to follow the line of least resistance. In the former case it does not help the reader very much. In the latter it puts him on the straight and easy path that leads to Rose ruin. One has only to study the different habits of various climbing Roses to see that the same method of pruning does not apply equally to all. I might make two broad distinctions, and class them as "rod" and "spray" Roses. The former make long canes, and bear their flowers on short shoots, which break from the rods. In the case of that Rose of miraculous vigour, Dorothy Perkins, the flowering shoots are not really short ; they are often semi-rods, and droop low and gracefully under their burden of flowers. Crimson Rambler and Carmine Pillar are rod Roses, and the way to prune them is to select the old, hard, pithy rods which have flowered, are very dark in colour, and often have crinkly bark, and cut them out close to the ground. The younger, lighter- coloured rods should, of course, be retained for flowering. It sometimes happens that one of the best of the young rods is produced, not direct from the root stock, but from the lower part of an old cane, and the case creates 172 Single Annual Chkvsanthemums from seei doors in spring. SOWN OUT OF LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS perplexity. If there are plenty of flowering rods without April the one in doubt, it may go with the old rod which bears ^~^5 it, but if not, the older wood may be pruned back to the point where the young one springs from it. Gloire de Dijon and Reine Marie Henrietta are rather *' spray " than " rod " Roses. When they are established they do not throw up long canes annually, but they produce a good deal of side wood from the main branches. This wood may be pruned on somewhat the same principle as dwarfs — that is, the short, twiggy shoots cut close in, and the longer ones merely tipped. But I may modify this to the extent of saying that if there is more strong wood than can be accommodated on the wall or arch without crowding, I would cut the excess clean out. William Allen Richardson is likely to need a good deal of restriction when it is growing in congenial soil, as it generally makes more annual growth than can be accommodated. The grower should thin it vigorously. Dundee Rambler is a "rod" Rose of tremendous vigour. It has almost as much vitality as Dorothy Perkins. It is true that it does not throw up so many strong canes from the root every year as Dorothy does, but the shoots extend far and wide. It needs thinning and shortening ; the older wood thinning, and the younger wood, which is often very long and slender, shortening. Dorothy Perkins may have some of the old rods cut out at the base like Crimson Rambler, but a good deal of young wood is certain to go with it, as this variety oozes shoots from every pore. The pruner sometimes gets alarmed when he observes the growing heap of prunings beside him, but he need not have any fear, as there will soon be abundance of fresh growth on his plants. Felicite et Perpdtue is only a degree less vigorous than Dorothy Perkins, but it produces fewer canes and more spray. It 173 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April requires thinning and also considerable shortening, in ^"^5 view of the thicket of side twigs. The Penzance Briers produce rods, which should be thinned out as they get old and hard. Flowers will be produced from the younger canes, which may spring from the root stock, or as laterals from the old rods. Hardy Annuals. — Early April is generally the best time of the year for sowing hardy annuals out of doors, because the soil has become well warmed by the spring sun, and is in a condition to crumble freely under the rake. I gave a list of plants in my first chapter, and I need do no more now than advise the reader to give special attention to such particularly valuable kinds as Sweet Peas, Mignonette, Godetias, Clarkias, Poppies, Rose Mallow (Lavatera), Miss Jekyll's Love-in-a-Mist, double annual Chrysanthemums, and Nasturtiums. In mentioning the names of these and other kinds, I stated the distance that they should go apart. Let the amateur beware of crowding. Clumps look better than rows, both in beds and borders. It is not a bad plan to drop three or four seeds in groups about a foot apart, and thin the resulting plants down to one. The advantages of this plan over sowing a broad patch is that less seed is used and less trouble involved in thinning. Remember that while annuals make beautiful and cheap beds when they are well grown, they are also well worthy of being put into herbaceous borders, where the later-blooming kinds can be utilised to succeed the early-flowering perennials. (See remarks in Chapter III.) Sweet Peas. — The Sweet Pea is the queen of hardy annuals, and is well worthy of special culture. A row of mixed varieties looks charming, but those who like to grow special varieties under name may make up continu- ous rows by sowing or planting short lengths (perhaps 174 If White Iceland I'opi'ies. LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS only three or four feet) of each sort ; if the latter plan is April adopted, it is well to blend colours. Red, white, and I~I5 blue are harmonious neighbours. Blue looks well beside cream. But separate clumps may be made instead of straight rows if desired. Clumps look well in mixed borders, and in special positions on lawns. If the soil is rich and moist, neither rows nor clumps ought to be nearer than six feet to each other. A circle made for a clump (and the circle system is the best, as it keeps the plants from crowding at the centre) ought not to be less than a yard across. The drills for both rows and clumps should be made about three inches deep in fine, friable soil. Some Sweet Peas have white and some black seeds ; it is a good plan to chip the latter with a sharp knife, as this facilitates germination. Those who have raised plants under glass may plant them out not less than six inches apart in April ; they will probably give flowers earlier than those sown out of doors, and the plants are likely to be stronger. Lime should be dusted along the rows to keep off slugs. It is a good plan to get the sticks which are to support the plants at once, and to cut out some of the twiggy shoots on the upper part to place among the plants as protection. The principal sticks can be put in later if they are regarded as an eyesore while bare, but assthetic considerations must not be carried far. The sticks ought to be put in when the plants throw out tendrils, and it is inevitable that the sticks are bare for a few weeks. Some good varieties of Sweet Peas were named in Chapter I. Sowing Lawn Grass Seed. — April is nominally the best month in the year for sowing Grass seed, but it sometimes happens that it is the worst. If cold winds prevail the ground is chilled, and the seed lies dormant. 175 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April In such circumstances it is wise to wait for better weather I"I5 — even if it means sowing as late as May. Grass seed may go in whenever the ground has been warmed by spring sun, is moist, and crumbles to a fine tilth under the rake ; the ground should be firm, perfectly level, and free from stones. The seed should be sprinkled evenly over the surface on a still day (in windy weather it would be blown into heaps) at the rate of about three-quarters of a pound per square rod. Afterwards the ground should be scratched over with a rake to partially cover the seed, trodden or rolled, and protected from birds with black thread strung a few inches above the surface, or fish netting, or scares. It is absolutely essential to keep off the birds somehow, otherwise they will have the greater part of the seed, and what is left will be unable to give a plant strong enough to outgrow the various weeds that are likely to thrust themselves forward. It is a good plan to regularly roll the young Grass from the time that it is an inch high. When it is three inches high, the tops should be cut or clipped off. The mowing machine ought not to be put on until the Grass begins to thicken at the base. This means that the roots are spreading and throwing up fresh Grass. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — If this beautiful winter- flowering Begonia was rested and cut back after flowering, it ought now to be throwing up young shoots. These may be taken off as cuttings when they are two or three inches long, and inserted in sandy soil. They quickly 1 root if placed over bottom heat, and make good flowering plants by the autumn. Sowing Cinerarias. — Seed of Cinerarias may be sown in a hot-bed frame or heated greenhouse for giving plants to flower next winter. Startijtg and Propagating Fuchsias. — One finds, in 176 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS visiting the large nurseries, that the increased popularity April of Orchids, pot Roses, Carnations, and other plants has ^"^5 not materially affected the position of that old-time favourite, the Fuchsia. It is still grown a great deal. The plan with it is to dry it off in autumn, keep it dormant through the winter, start it again in spring by putting it in a warm house, pruning the shoots close back, and syringing it. If more plants are needed, some of the young shoots are taken off when about three inches long, and inserted in sandy soil. They root quickly if kept warm and close, and in the course of the summer make good flowering plants. Soine Special Herbaceous and Rock Plants. — Herba- ceous plants may still be put in ; indeed, early April is one of the best periods of the year for the work, as the plants are just beginning to grow. In Chapter III. I gave a list of "stock" herbaceous plants — kinds which can be bought from all growers at a moderate cost. Let me now name a few of special interest, for the benefit of those who are familiar with the "old stagers," and want to add something fresh to their collections. The plants may be expected to cost rather more than the old species : Aconitum. — Sparks' variety is a fine deep blue Monkshood. Adonis Amurensis is a handsome yellow species from Japan, with fern-like foliage, flowering in February and March. It grows a foot high. There are double forms of this fine plant. Alyssum Saxatile Flore Pleno is a double form of the well-known "Gold Dust." The Dropmore variety of the well-known Borage, Anchusa Italica, is superior to the type ; the flowers have the rich blue of the Gentian. Anemonopsis Macrophylla bears drooping Anemone-like flowers in charming waxy sprays ; they are white, with a blush tint. It grows about i8 inches high, and enjoys a shady place in the border. 177 M THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April Artemisia Lactiflora is a handsome white Wormwood, 4 feet high. I-IC Asters (perennial). — New varieties of Michaelmas Daisies come out annually, and it is somewhat difficult to keep pace with them. The following are very good : Acris nanus, lilac, only i foot high. Amellus Favourite, rose, 2 feet high. „ Framfieldii, violet. Coombe Fishacre, flesh-coloured, 3^ feet high. Cordifolius Ideal, lavender, 3^ feet high. Diffusus Horizontalis, red and white, 2^ feet high. Edwin Beckett, lavender, 4 feet high. Enchantress, blush pink, 3 feet high. Laevis Hon. Vicary Gibbs, reddish blue, in sprays, 2| feet high. Mrs. S. T. Wright, rosy purple, 4 feet high. Noviae-Angliae Mrs. J. F. Rayner, crimson, 5 feet high. Novi-Belgii Captivation, blush pink, 3 feet high. „ „ F. W. Burbidge, heliotrope, 4 feet high. „ „ Top Sawyer, lilac, 4 feet high. „ „ White Queen, white, 4 feet high. Vimineus Delight, white, very small feathery foliage, 3 feet high. A.stilbe Chinensis Davidii is a handsome Chinese " Spiraea," which has received a first-class certificate from the Royal Horti- cultural Society. The colour is purplish crimson. Height, 3 to 4 feet. Aubrietia Prichard's Ai is a fine variety of coloured Rock Cress, deep violet in colour. It is a useful addition to our rockwork and carpeting plants. Calceolaria Golden Glory is a very brilliant hardy hybrid, which ought to prove very servicable in the herbaceous border and in beds. Campanula ,Carpathica White Star is a beautiful variety of a popular old plant, with white saucer-shaped flowers. Height, I foot. Cimicifuga Simplex is a charming Japanese species, bearing white flowers late in summer. Height, 3 feet. Gerbera Jamesoni (the Transvaal or Barberton Daisy) is a brilliant scarlet-flowered plant that is not quite hardy, and is con- sequently grown by many in frames or cool greenhouses, but will pass the winter in sheltered places if the soil is light and ffiable. Height, i foot. It is a remarkable plant, which 178 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS botanists are now crossing so as to increase the choice of April colour. They have already attained considerable success. I~I5 Gypsophila Paniculata Flore Pleno is a double variety of the well- known "Lace Plant" or "Gauze Flower," which is grown a good deal for mixing with cut flowers. The double, like the single, has white flowers, which do not fall after they have been cut and dried. Heloniopsis Breviscapa is an interesting little winter blooming plant, with white flowers. It only grows about 4 inches high. Hepatica Angulosa Alba is a white form of an old favourite. Incarvillea Delavayi made a considerable stir with its fine rosy red, Gloxinia-like flowers, and fern-like leaves, when first introduced. I. Grandiflora is a newer giant species from China, with rose flowers. It likes a dry, warm position. Height, 2 feet. Iris Sibirica Snow Queen is a lovely pure white variety of the Siberian Iris, and enjoys moist soil. Height, 3 feet. Lathyrus Latifolius White Pearl is a very fine pure white form of the Everlasting Pea. Lavender Munstead Dwarf is an early-blooming, fragrant variety that grows about half the height of the common type. Lychnis Grandiflora is a Japanese species, with salmon flowers. Height, i\ feet. Papaver Orientale Lady Roscoe is a splendid rose-pink variety of the Oriental Poppy, and Princess Ena, a nice orange salmon. Phlox Divaricata or Canadensis. — There are two very fine varieties — one a " Plumbago" blue, being called Perry's variety; and the other, a deeper or violet blue, called Lapham's variety. (Among many fine varieties of perennial Garden Phlox I may name George A. Strohlein, an enormous orange-scarlet flower with a deeper eye. Readers who do not know what to choose among the older varieties might note that the following have been selected for special notice by the Royal H-orticultural Society : Coquelicot, orange-scarlet. Esclaimonde, lilac, white centre. Etna, glowing orange-red. Eugene Danzanvilliers, lilac-blue, white centre. Moliere, salmon, rose tint, cerise eye with white rii)g. Tapis Blanc, dwarf white.) Primrose Evelyn Arkwright is an immense variety, flowers pale yellow and fragrant, but several times as large as those of the common Primrose. Primula Pulverulenta is a handsome species from China, the 179 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April flowers of which are borne in whorls in the same way as those I-I5 of Primula Japonica. The colour is crimson. The foliage is slightly mealy. Height, i to li foot. Ramondia Pyrenaica Alba is a white form of a well-known Alpine. It is a beautiful plant, and will thrive in a shady part of the rockery. Senecio Clivorum is a Chinese species, with large, loose heads of many flowers, borne in summer. It is a good plant for heavy soil, and thrives near water. Stokesia Cyanea Praecox and its white variety, Alba, are beautiful border plants. The former has lavender-coloured flowers. They bloom in late summer and autumn. Height i to ir} foot. Thalictrum Orientale is a pretty and distinct plant with glaucous blue foliage and white flowers in branching heads. Height, 2 feet. Climbers and Wall Shrubs There is no practical reason why wall plants should be planted later than Roses or fruit trees — in fact, a good reason can be adduced in favour of early planting ; but it has grown to be so much a matter of custom to plant late in spring, that florists grow most of the popular kinds in pots, so as to be able to execute orders at a period when it is too late to shift plants from the open ground. I have not been favourably impressed with many of the specimens of pot climbers which I have received from nurserymen, and I greatly prefer plants from the open ground. The pot theory is plausible enough, and answers while the plants are young ; but when they have been in the same comparatively small pots two or three years, and have pushed a strong tap- root, like a miniature Parsnip, through the bottom of it, things are not so satisfactory. A small plant with fibrous roots is better than a bigger one with a single tap-root. One can plant climbers and wall shrubs from the open ground early in April, but not much later, except in mild, moist districts. The great point in favour of 180 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS early planting is that it gives the plants a chance of April making root before the hot weather comes on, and if the ^~^5 new fibres get a good hold of the soil before May the plant generally lives and thrives. Let me indicate a few good kinds : Aristolochia Sipho, the Dutchman's Pipe, grows quickly, and forms large, heart-shaped leaves. The pipe-shaped, pendulous flowers are brown and yellow. The plant should have a warm aspect. It loses its leaves in winter. Buddleias Globosa (Orange Ball), Variabilis and Veitchiana have been referred to already. The perfumed lilac flowers, borne in long cones, of the last named, are beautiful in late summer. The Ceanothus, or Blue Bush, likes a south or west aspect. Ceres has pale pink, Gloire de Versailles light blue, and Marie Simon mauve flowers. The Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus Fragrans) likes a warm aspect. It blooms in winter, and its brownish yellow flowers are powerfully scented. There is a larger variety called Grandiflorus. As winter bloomers, these plants are best planted in autumn. The Mexican Orange-flower, Choisya Ternata, is a beautiful evergreen shrub, flowering late in spring or early in summer. It likes a warm aspect, and is often grown as a border shrub in a sheltered place, where it will produce its pretty, white, fragrant flowers, resembling Orange blossoms, in profusion. The Clematises are a power in themselves. The Jackmanii section is the most popular, and the varieties are benefited by being cut close to the ground after planting, and by severe pruning. Jackmanii, violet ; Jackmanii Alba, white; and Jackmanii Rubra, crimson, are three beautiful sorts belonging to this class. The iSi THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April Virgin's Bower, Clematis Flammula, bears fragrant white ^"^5 flowers in clusters in late summer ; and the Traveller's Joy, Clematis Vitalba, also flowers late. Its feathery seed heads are familiar to country folk in autumn. Superior to either of these plants, however, is Clematis Montana, a rapid grower, a good town plant, and a late spring bloomer. The newer rosy red variety called Montana Rubens, a hardy variety from China, is likely to receive a good deal of attention from lovers of climbers who appreciate the merits of the old Montana. Crataegus Lelandii is a handsome Thorn, the chief beauty of which is the crop of handsome scarlet berries which it carries through the winter. It is superior to the old " Pyracantha." The Japanese Quince, Cydonia, or Pyrus Japonica, is doubly handsome, for its large scarlet flowers, as big as Apple blossom, make the house wall brilliant in spring, while its fruits are beautiful in autumn. This is a particularly valuable wall shrub, because it will thrive in most soils and on most aspects. The flowering sprays may be cut for room decoration, and the buds will open in water. The fruit may be cooked, or made into jelly. There are several distinct varieties, notably Apple Blossom, pink and white; Simonii, crimson; and Maulei, terra-cotta. The last named is suitable for a low wall. The Escallonias grow with great luxuriance in mild, moist places, and form beautiful hedges of shining foliage and rosy flowers in some cliff gardens that I wot of overlooking Mounts Bay. Macrantha is the typical species. Langleyensis has carmine, and Philippiana white flowers. All are evergreen. Garrya Elliptica is perhaps rather distinct than beautiful. It bears long, pendulous, pale green catkins in spring. It is an evergreen. 182 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS The Honeysuckles {Lonicera of botanists) are natur- April ally popular, with their pretty flowers and delicious ^"^5 perfume. There are several varieties of the common Woodbine, notably Belgica, rose and cream, and Pallidum, creamy yellow ; both of these are hardy, and fragrant to a degree. They lose their leaves in winter. The Japanese (Japonica Flexuosa), with red and white perfumed flowers, is an evergreen. There is a netted- leaved form of the Japanese called Aureo Reticulata which has yellow in the foliage, and is a very ornamental plant. Fragrantissima and Standishi bear white flowers in winter. The Ivies {Hedera of botanists) are perhaps mostly represented nowadays by the small-leaved, parti-coloured sorts, of which Chrysophylla (Mrs. Pollock), Dentata Variegata, and Marginata Robusta are a good trio. They do not grow so fast as the Irish Ivy (Canariensis), and if a green-leaved kind that will cover a house wall quickly is wanted, the latter had better be selected. The plants should be clipped over in spring. The most useful of the Jasmines is certainly the yellow winter-bloomer Nudiflorum, as it is perfectly hardy. Humile (Revolutum) is both beautiful and sweet, but is not quite hardy. Jasmine lovers who have a heated greenhouse should make acquaintance with the beautiful evergreen winter-flowering species Primulinum, which bears a profusion of yellow flowers. The double yellow Jew's Mallow (Kerria) is a very useful wall shrub, as it will thrive on most aspects, and is covered with double yellow flowers in summer. The Everlasting Peas belong to the same genus (Lathyrus) as the Sweet Peas, and have flowers of similar form, but scentless. They are hardy perennials, and, although scarcely suitable for walls, will thrive on trellises, 183 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April pergolas, and arbours. The Common, Latifolius, and its I~i5 white variety, Albus, are the best known ; but there are several others, notably Delicatus, blush-coloured, and Coccineus, crimson, which may be grown by those who like to specialise in this flower. The Magnolias are perhaps used more largely for borders than for walls, but Conspicua is a good wall plant, and its white flowers are fragrant. The Victorian Snow-bush, Olearia Stellulata or Gunniana, is a charming shrub for a low wall. It is an evergreen, and flowers freely in summer. Both the Passion-flower (Passiflora caerulea) and the white Constance Elliott are beautiful and interesting wall plants, but they cannot be relied upon if the aspect is cold, and ought to have warm, sheltered places. The Siik-Vine, Periploca Graeca, is a singular and interesting flower of brownish red. It is hardly worthy of selection as a prominent wall shrub, but may form one of a collection of plants on a pergola. Polygonum Baldschuanicum is hampered by a terribly formidable name, but British amateurs must try and master it, for it is a magnificent plant, hardy, climbing very rapidly, and bearing a profusion of drooping white or pink sprays of blossom in summer and autumn. Those who see it in full beauty on a tall framework of poles in September will not readily forget it. Roses have been dealt with already. The Flame Nasturtium (Tropoeolum Speciosum) has many admirers, many of whom gaze at it despondently, as a plant which has baffled them. It is glorious in August and September where it thrives, being a sheet of vermilion. A hot, dry site is fatal to it, and it is best planted in a place where the roots are in the shade. 184 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS Veitch's self-clinging Virginian Creeper, Ampelopsis April Veitchi (or Vitis inconstans of botanists), is naturally a ^'^S great favourite, as it grows rapidly, covers a wall with greenery in summer, and turns to a bright red in autumn. Wistaria (or Wisteria, the common spelling) Sinensis is an old favourite. It is a slow grower, but its lilac racemes are very beautiful when the plant has got strong enough to bear freely. There is a giant-flowered Japanese species called Multijuga, which can now be bought from florists. Climbers and shrubs on walls which now either fail completely or drag out a miserable existence, owe their unsatisfactory condition to want of thoroughness on the part of the planter, in most cases. He does not prepare the soil well enough, nor plant early enough. If the soil is poor (and soil under walls generally is), some of it ought to be removed to a couple of feet of depth and width, and decayed turves and manure substituted. Moreover, good soakings of water should be given in dry weather. Fruit The grafting of fruit trees, the details of which were given in the last chapter, ought to be completed in the early part of April. Vines will be starting in unheated houses. Thin Grapes on early Vines, when the fruit has set and is beginning to swell, using a pair of long, slender "grape- scissors," procured from the seedsman. Begin at the bottom of the bunch, and work upward. Thin with judgment, forming an idea of what space each berry will require when it has swollen to its full size. Avoid touching the berries with the fingers or hair. Melons in frames. — The present is a good time to prepare a frame for Melons. A bed of warm stable 185 „' THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April manure and leaves may be made up in the manner I' ^5 previously advised, and a mound of soil a foot deep put on the top, in the centre. A plant raised in a pot in a warm greenhouse or hot bed in the manner recom- mended in an earlier chapter, and with three or four rough leaves, may be planted out, and the tip removed to encourage side shoots to form. Superlative is one of the best varieties for frame culture. Vegetables Successions of Broad Beans, Peas, Turnips, Spinach, Carrots, Onions, Celery, Tomatoes, and Leeks may be sown. (See previous chapter.) Artichokes. — The Globe, Jerusalem and Chinese Arti- chokes may all be planted now. (See table in Chapter I. for distances.) Planting Asparagus. — Beds of this delicious vegetable may be made now, and heads will be yielded next spring if the "roots" are strong. They should not be less than two years old. As a guide to size, I may say that a "root" of which the fibres form as large a mass as can be grasped tightly in one hand, and six to nine inches long, is a good one, and ought to yield a nice crop a year after planting. It is worth while to take special pains with the bed. A low, damp site should be avoided, as Asparagus never thrives in close, sodden soil. The soil should be drained, so that no stagnant water can ever lie within two feet of the surface. Light, friable, loamy soil suits the crop better than heavy, adhesive clay, but the Asparagus-lover who has heavy land need not de- spair. I have myself grown very satisfactory crops of Asparagus on clay, so that I know it is possible. The ground should be dug not less than two full spades deep, and rich, decayed yard manure at the rate of about three i86 The variegated aloe-leaved Yucca (Yucca aloeifolia variegata) as a room plant. LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS barrow-loads per rod worked into the lower spit. I am April convinced that deep breaking-up of the soil has much to ^~^5 do with success in Asparagus growing in heavy land. It facilitates the getting away of surface water, increases friability and aeration, and raises the level of the top or planting stratum. A determined grower will break his soil three feet deep, and deserve applause for his resolu- tion. When the work is done the ground level will stand nearly a foot higher than it did before — quite that if road scrapings, mortar rubbish, and wood-ashes (all splendid additions to ground for Asparagus) are thrown on to the surface with a liberal hand. If two beds are being made side by side, a strip two feet wide may be marked out between them, and the soil from it thrown on to the beds, thus further raising the level, and simul- taneously forming a path, or what the gardener terms an alley. A bed four feet wide willgive plenty of room for two parallel rows, and the plants may be set in them eighteen inches apart. If the soil is light, cover them six inches deep, if heavy four inches. It is prudent to get the bed ready directly the plants are ordered, instead of waiting until the roots arrive. There is always danger of the roots getting dry, and if they do, anything may happen ; even if they do not fail altogether, they will be very slow indeed in starting. Seed of Asparagus may be sown now for planting next spring. Existing beds of Asparagus may have a dressing of salt at the rate of a pound per square yard. APRIL— Third and Fourth Weeks April 16-30 Flowers Half-hardy Annuals. — Those who lack the facilities for raising Asters, Ten-week Stocks, Marigolds, Phlox THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April Drummondi, and the other half-hardy annuals recom- ^6-30 mended in previous chapters for sowing under glass in March, may sow them in a sheltered place, and in fine, moist prepared soil, in the open air towards the end of March. The seed should be sprinkled thinly in drills drawn about nine inches apart, so that a hoe may be run between them to keep weeds down. The plants can be transplanted from the rows to their flowering quarters when they are about three inches high. Use freshly- slaked quicklime freely to keep slugs at bay. They will devour the whole stock otherwise. Hardy annuals may still be sown in beds and borders where they are to bloom. Begonias and other seedlings raised in boxes in Winter, and which have been making slow progress, may now be expected to move more quickly. Seed- lings should never be allowed to remain crowded together, as then they get " drawn " (that is, long and weak in the stem) and fail to make good plants. The first sign of crowding should be the signal for setting out farther apart in other boxes, or singly in 3-inch pots. Pinching Plants. — The gardener gets rallied sometimes about his choice of terms. He often speaks of " pinch- ing " plants. What he means by that is removing the growing tip. The result of " pinching " is to make a plant that is running up with a strong central stem form strong side shoots near the base. It thus becomes more " bushy," to use another horticultural term. A plant with strong side branches generally produces more flowers than one with a central stem only, so that it is better in more ways than one. " Pinching " may be practised on many pot plants with advantage — on Chrysanthemums (except those grown for show flowers), 188 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS Zonal Geraniums, Fuchsias, Heliotrope, Marguerites, April and others. It is best done when the plants are about IO-30 six inches high, and may be repeated (this time on the side shoots which have resulted from the first stopping) if necessary. Staking plants. — This is another helpful detail. Plants that are staked betimes grow better than those which are left without support. Florists sell plain or painted stakes of all lengths, and also green raffia tape for tying. Even quite dwarf things like Mignonette and Rho- danthes, as well as all plants that produce one or more leading shoots, are benefited by early staking. Where several plants are grown together in a pot, as in the case of Mignonette, short stakes may be put round the side of the pot, and connected by strands of tying material. It is not desirable to use long stakes for short plants, otherwise the stick tends to become the most prominent object. This consideration should have weight in staking herbaceous plants, Dahlias, Gladioli, and other plants in the garden. Propagating the Draught Palm {Aspidistra). — The useful, draught-resisting Aspidistra forms a creeping root stock, and when increase is desired an old plant may be turned out of its pot and a sharp knife passed through the rhizome. Any fairly strong piece so severed will strike if a few root fibres are secured with it. Propagating Poinsettias. — Poinsettia Pulcherrima, with its carmine-rose bracts, is as brilliant as any flowering plant, and there are few gardeners who do not grow it. It is not an easy plant to strike from young shoots, but portions of old wood, such as pieces of stem with a bud or two on each, will generally root at this time of the year if inserted in sandy soil, and put in a propagating case. 180 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April Winter Plants in Spring. — Plants which have been 10-30 used for winter decoration in a greenhouse or con- servatory, such as Zonal Geraniums, Bouvardias, and berry-bearing Solanums (Winter Cherries) will have passed their best by the end of April, and may be pruned back to the older wood, and placed in a warm house if wanted for further use. If syringed regularly, they will throw out fresh shoots, and some of those may be taken off and struck as cuttings. Propagating Crotons and Dracaenas. — The present is a good period to make a slit in the upper part of the stems of Crotons and Dracaenas which have grown too tall, and bind the part round with moss. If the plants are kept in a warm, moist house roots will be emitted, and the tops can then be cut off and potted. Propagating India-rubber Plants. — The India-rubber Plant, Ficus Elastica, can be propagated in the same way as Crotons. The variegated form is an attractive plant. Room Plants. — Plants which have spent the winter in rooms are likely to be somewhat worn and dingy when spring comes, and will be the better for exposure to warm showers, or for being sprayed regularly. This will be especially grateful to Palms, Aspidistras, and India-rubber Plants. Periodical cleansing of the foliage has almost as important a bearing on the health of these popular foliage plants as watering. From the present time, and throughout the summer, the plants will want a great deal more water than they have required during the winter. Whether they will need it every day or not will depend on two things — the state of the weather, and the size of the pot. In bright, dry weather, a supply of water is likely to be called for every day ; it is almost certain to be needed if the plants are 190 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS growing in small pots, which are tightly packed with April roots. In case of doubt, the grower can always settle 10-30 the point by rapping the pot, and noting whether the sound emitted is hollow and ringing (water wanted) or dull and heavy (water not wanted). The present is a good period to repot room plants that need what gardeners call " a shift," Repotting for the sake of repotting should be avoided, because it is not convenient to have large, heavy pots in rooms ; but when the pots get very full of roots one of three things should be done : (i) the plant given a larger pot ; (2) the plant turned out of the pot, part of the ball of roots and soil crumbled away, and the plant replaced with fresh soil rammed tightly all around it ; (3) the plant left in the pot, some of the top soil scooped out, and a top-dressing of fresh given. Plan No i had better be adopted if the soil is thoroughly permeated with, and surrounded by, roots. If things have not gone quite so far as that, either of the other two methods may be resorted to — No. 2 for preference. Fresh loam, with about a quarter of decayed manure and some coarse sand, will form a suitable compost. While the plants are out of the pots the drainage should be rearranged, one large crock being placed over the hole, smaller pieces lapped over it, and the whole surfaced with moss. It is better to get an increased quantity of soil into the pots by hard ramming than by filling up so near the top that less than an inch of space is left for water. The water space cannot be stinted without grave risk of the plants suffering far more than they would from a slight loss of soil. Room plants are as much benefited by fresh air as human beings, but they soon suffer if they stand in a draught. A steady, diffused flow of air is the desideratum, 191 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April and it can be secured generally by keeping the 16-30 window open and the door shut. Such slight draught as is created by air flowing from window to fireplace is not likely to do any harm except when the wind is flowing strongly from a cold quarter ; in such circum- stances the plants should be moved while the window is open. Ventilation should always be provided when gas or a lamp is burning. Planting Gladioli. — The brilliant and graceful Gladi- olus is one of the grandest of late summer flowers, and the price of corms has been reduced considerably in recent years. Everybody cannot afford to buy the newest hybrids, but there are very few who cannot afford mixed corms, and the varieties are sure to be good if purchased from a dealer of repute. The plant will succeed on almost any soil that is drained, but it certainly does not like sticky ground. The greatest obstacle that I myself have encountered is not a degree of lightness or heaviness in the soil, or of a week earlier or later in planting, but the onslaught of wireworm. This exasperating pest has to be taken very seriously when Gladioli are being planted on ground from which turf has been recently lifted. It is quite equal to spoil- ing a pound's worth of corms and the whole season's bloom. A Gladiolus expert once told me that if I rolled or trod my beds quite hard after planting ("about as hard as a macadam road " was the way in which he put it) wireworm would cease from troubling. Alas ! the sufferer from this practice was not the wireworm, but the gardener, whose extra labour only seemed to inspire the wireworm to fresh deeds of destruction. Apterite or Vaporite should be worked into the soil, and baits of Potato may be embedded. The ground for Gladioli should be deeply dug. If 192 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS heavy, it should be dressed with bone-flour at the rate of April two ounces per square yard ; if Hght, with well-decayed 16-30 yard manure. The corms may be put eighteen inches apart and three inches deep. Fkuit Work in the fruit garden and houses in the second half of April will be principally as follows : (i) Completing the grafting of trees. (2) Disbudding, tying down and stopping Vines, and thinning Grapes. Remember to close houses early in the afternoon in order to conserve the natural heat ; and also to " damp down " the paths and borders by sprinkling water about. (3) Staking and tying any trees which are not steady. (4) Destroying insects. Black fly will endeavour to establish itself in the tips of Cherries and Peaches. Directly any of the aphides are seen, use one of the many insecticides sold by seeds- men for the purpose. (5) Syringe Peach houses at the middle of the after- noon on bright days, but not on wet ones. Give as much air as is consistent with avoiding draughts. (6) Stopping and planting Melons, and sowing more seed for late crops. Canker of the stems is common in Melons, but can be avoided by keeping water from the stems, and preventing the soil from becoming sodden. Vegetables Asparagus. — Complete the making of new beds and the sowing of seeds. 193 N THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April Beetroot. — A sowing of the Globe may be made, 16-30 scattering the seed thinly in drills drawn a foot apart and an inch deep in well-dug but unmanured ground. String some black thread loosely over the rows, or cover with fish netting, to keep birds off. Broccoli. — Old plants from which the hearts have been cut may be cleared off, and the ground prepared for late Peas. The varieties Late Queen and Model may be sown now for use next spring. Seedlings from earlier sowings may be thinned. Beans. — Dwarf French Kidney Beans may now be sown in rows two feet apart and three inches deep. The seeds may be put nine inches apart. Canadian Wonder is a good variety. Cauliflowers. — The variety Autumn Giant should be sown in drills half an inch deep and a foot apart for autumn use. Celery. — Plants in boxes should be pricked out if crowded, and given plenty of air. Cucumbers. — Plants in bearing should be top-dressed w^ith fresh soil. The side shoots which are bearing fruit should be " pinched " a leaf or two beyond the fruit. Seed may be sown for late crops. Horse Radish. — Young pieces may be planted now in deeply dug soil. Mint. — The present is a suitable period for dividing patches of Mint that have got very thick. The central parts may be thrown away, and the inside pieces re- planted in fresh soil. Onions. — Plants that were raised by sowing in boxes under glass in winter ought to be strong, and may be planted a foot apart in rows eighteen inches asunder, in deep, rich soil that is firm at the top. Water them in unless the weather is showery, and do not be 194 April LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS alarmed if one or two leaves fade — more will come soon. 16-30 Peas. — Seed may be sown for late crops. Gladstone and Autocrat are good varieties. The drills should be four feet apart and three inches deep. Potatoes. — Finish planting for the season. Draw soil to exposed tops. Savoys. — Sow seed for winter produce. Drumhead is a good variety. Thyme (Lemon) may now be propagated by cuttings. The Garden in April— A Resume April In April we almost complete the sowing of seeds R^gum^ for giving flowers and vegetables during the current summer ; we stimulate the growth of young plants that have sprung from earlier sowings by hoeing ; and we give more room to seedlings that are getting crowded in boxes. If our start for the year is made in April, we push on soil preparation as rapidly as possible, in order to be able to get our sowing and planting done in the early part of the month. We finish planting Roses, and also pruning. The weakly sorts, whether grown as dwarfs or standards, are pruned hard, the strong sorts lightly. As regards the pruning of climbing Roses, most of the popular sorts of the present day produce long rods. The old ones may be removed or cut back, the young preserved for flowering. Hardy annuals of all kinds may be sown in April. With the soil crumbly and moist, germination is rapid. Sweet Peas may be sown, and strong plants that have been raised under glass planted out in clumps or rows. 195 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK April Where grass plots are being made from seed, sowing — may be done in April provided the weather is mild and R6sum6 still, but it is unwise to sow in cold or windy weather. The planting of the herbaceous border and rockery may be completed. Those who have collections of representative plants may like to consider adding modern varieties, in order to add fresh interest. Gladioli may be planted, and measures taken to repress wireworm, which is very destructive to this beautiful plant. Most of the principal climbers and small shrubs may be planted, and the earlier it is done the better. The soil should be well prepared. Half-hardy annuals may be sown out of doors in the latter half of the month if the weather is fine. With respect to indoor plants, the lovely winter- flowering Begonia Gloire de Lorraine may be propa- gated by cuttings, and seedling tuberous Begonias and other small seedlings pricked off. Cinerarias may be sown for the following winter's bloom. Fuchsias may be started into growth, and propagated by cuttings. Young plants of various kinds may be pinched in order to make them bushy, and staked if necessary. Poinsettias may be propagated by pieces of the old stem, Aspidistras by portions of the creeping root, and Crotons, Dracaenas and India-rubber plants by "mossing" the stems. Room plants may be cleansed by sponging, and re- potted. The grafting of fruit trees should be completed. Vines must be ventilated, tied, and stopped. Early Grapes must be thinned. A frame may be prepared for Melons, and seeds sown. 196 LATE SHOWERS & EARLY FLOWERS Insects must be destroyed directly they show. April As regards vegetables, seeds may be sown of nearly all the most important kinds, including Peas and Beans. Resumd Potatoes may be planted. Young Celery and Tomatoes should be pricked off. Artichokes of all kinds may be planted, April is a good month for making an Asparagus bed^ and for planting roots and sowing seeds of this delicious vegetable. Beetroot and Dwarf French Beans may be sown towards the end of the month ; also late Broccoli, Cauli- flowers, and Savoys. Cucumbers may be top-dressed and fruiting plants pruned. Horse Radish may be planted, and Mint divided. Onions raised under glass in winter may be planted out. 197 CHAPTER V MAY MORNS May It has been my endeavour to prepare the reader gently for certain little trials in gardening. I have let fall words of warning about insects and fungi — about slugs and aphides, mildew and caterpillars. The fact that nature puts certain obstacles in the path of the amateur must be made known, but not with violence. The spring days are fair, the flowers are sweet, the long nights are full of soft lights, why speak of troubles in so unguarded a way as to give an exaggerated idea of their terrors ? When in the fragrant, blowy May morns the amateur sees the trail of the slug among his seedlings, when zigzags of mounds all over his lawn show that moles have been at work, is he going to taste deeply of the iron of sorrow ? No, he is going to find compensation in the brilliant cups of his Tulips, in the rosy sheets of his fruit blossom, in the sight of sturdy, purple Asparagus shoots and the tender tint of young Peas. May is a month of development. The green of the lawn is as soft as that of the Larches. The little Stocks, and Phloxes, and Asters, and Lettuces are moving rapidly. There is joyful promise of a happy gardening year. Early morning in the garden is a time of dehcious, invigorating air, of sweet smells, of charming glimpses of ruddy tints in beds of Paeonies and Tea Roses. We rise with the lark, and go forth 198 MAY MORNS with lightness of heart, with teeming hopefulness. We May have laboured, and we begin to see some result from our work. There have been gloomy days, and irksome tasks ; but now there is sunshine, and young leaves, and blossom. It is my heartfelt wish that the amateur should drink deeply of May's garden joys. They are abundant, they are rich. They hearten him not only for garden en- joyments, but for the stern labours of life. I do not, however, want him to join the Lotus-eaters. I do not wish to see complacency steal too deeply into his being, and tell him that he may now rest content, for all has been done that need be done. The attitude which I want him to assume is that of the Marathon runner who, having breasted the hills, forced his way through the brake, and found himself at last on the level track which leads to the goal, braces himself, lengthens his stride, and resolutely makes good speed for home. Perhaps an unsuspected obstacle obtrudes itself ; the runner is sur- prised, but not dismayed. After all, the hills and the brake are behind him — what is an odd ditch or fence ? The full garden is the slug's opportunity. He comes forth ravenous. And the green aphis comes, and the American blight, and the Bean dolphin, and the mole, and the evening rabbit, and — yes, he always — the sparrow. Amongst them they will bring all our labours to naught if we let them. Let us relax our vigilance but for a week, let us indulge our complacency for however short a time, and an evil hand lays hold upon the garden. We will not cease our efforts. The ball is at our feet, and we will play it with all the vigour and the skill that are in us. Blithely, cheerily, we will make head against our garden foes. Our plants must live, that is the great fact, and so their enemies must be worried and harried unceasingly. 199 May I-I5 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK MAY— First and Second Weeks May is " bedding-out month " in the garden, and in mild districts tender plants are put out during the first half of the month. The bedding system still keeps its grip on public gardens, and with the advent of May the superintendents clear their bulb beds in order to prepare the soil for fresh plants. Window gardens, too, change their garments. Seedling plants sown out of doors are thinned. There is not much to do among outdoor fruits, but indoor fruit demands constant attention. Seedling vegetables are thinned, and a few late sowings are made. Window Gardening Window Boxes. — The duration of the spring display depends upon the kinds put in during autumn. If they were all bulbs, they will be over now ; if Wallflowers and Primroses were included, they may still be bright. I do not suggest the hasty dismantling of a window box early in May, because the end of the month is time enough to replant for summer. But brown Hyacinth spikes, and Tulips with only one draggled petal left, are not beautiful. If the boxes contain nothing better than these, they may as well be overhauled at once. The bulbs may be transferred to a remote place in the garden, the flower stems removed, and the bulbs covered with soil. The soil had better be removed, and the drainage rearranged. If the soil was fresh in autumn, it would do again, but it is wise to add some fresh, and to mix all well together. If a compost is being prepared, let the greater part of it be fibrous loam : a quarter of leaf MAY MORNS mould and a tenth of sand are the only additions May necessary. ^"^5 The regulation Zonal Geranium and Marguerite box is not bad ; it is bright from the outset, and it tends to improve with time ; but some may like to introduce less common plants. The drooping white Campanula (Iso- phylla Alba) looks very nice mixed with crimson and yellow plumed Celosias. These are plants of the Cocks- comb class, but have not the pompous and flunkeyfied stiffness of the Cockscomb. Fuchsias associated with white Asters look very nice, and rambling Tropoeolums or Ivy-leaved Geraniums may be introduced to prevent any suspicion of stiffness. Plants in Room Windows. — The feathery white Spiraea (to modern botanists Astilbe) Japonica looks very well in windows in spring. It is a very thirsty plant, and must have abundance of water. One sometimes sees what florists call show and fancy Pelargoniums in windows. They are near relatives of the Zonal Geranium, but the leaves are wholly green, and generally somewhat incurved. The relationship can be seen in the flowers, which are very richly marked, and are born freely. Triomphe de St. Mand6, very large crimson, is one of the best. H. J. Jones, rose, with white eye and crimson blotch, is also good. The Bride, white with marone upper petals, is one of the best of the lighter varieties. If the plants are shaded during the hottest part of the day, the flowers will last longer than if fully exposed to the sun. Azaleas are often grown in windows, and they also will be benefited by careful shading and watering. They are brilliant plants, which can be bought from nurserymen and bulb-dealers, well set with flower buds. It is a good time to repot such foliage plants as Aralia Sieboldii and the India-rubber Plant. 20I THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May Continue sponging the leaves of Palms, and watering I""I5 judiciously. Primulas for next Winter. — Fringed Primulas are great favourites for flowering in heated greenhouses and conservatories in winter, and now is the time to sow seed. The seedsman sells them under the name of Primula Sinensis, or Chinese Primrose, and he may offer them in separate colours (even under distinctive names) as well as in mixture. The pretty Primula Obconica may also be sown now for blooming next winter. The suggestions for sowing choice seeds in Chapter I. may be applied to Primulas. Water Lilies. — Early May is a very good time for planting aquatics, such as Nymphaeas, Water Haw thorn (Aponogeton) and Water Violet (Hottonia). The Nymphaeas (Water Lilies) are much the most important, and those who have no pond may make a cemented pool, or even grow the plants in tubs. The Sweet White Water Lily (Odorata) is charming, and Chromatella, yellow, is likewise a great favourite. For deep water the common Nymphaea Alba had better be chosen, and there is no difficulty in sinking it. The roots and soil can be tied into bundles, weighted with heavy stones, and thrown into the water. Where a pool is being made, a few inches of good loam should be put on the bottom, and the Water Lilies planted in it before the water is run in. Thirty inches is a suitable depth for all the best forms of hardy Water Lily. Coleuses. — These plants enjoy considerable favour for conservatory decoration on account of the brilliant colour of their leaves. If seed was sown a few weeks ago, or cuttings inserted, in accordance with hints given, there will now be a supply of young plants available Give them separate pots now, good soil, and warmth, in 202 The pretty greenhouse Primula, obconica, a very useful plant, but one which sometimes causes sores on the skin of those who handle it ungloved. Dicision o5 Horticuliiur. N. C. Bep't of Agrioiilture, MAY MORNS order to encourage growth. They ought to have a light May position, because that conduces to high colours in the I~I5 foliage. Bouvardias. — A previous reference was made to these beautiful winter-flowering plants, which have agreeable perfume, as well as bright colours and profuse bloom, to recommend them. Those that were cut back after flowering will now be starting afresh, and may be re- potted in fresh soil, reducing the ball so that the plants will go back into the same size or even into a size smaller pots. It is well to keep them shaded and syringed for a few days after repotting, but when they have fairly started growing they may go into a cold frame. Presi- dent Cleveland, scarlet ; Priory Beauty, pink ; and Alfred Neuner, double white, are three good sorts. Berry-bearing Solanums. — These may be treated the same as Bouvardias, with the possible exception of planting them in the garden for the summer instead of repotting them and growing them in frames. The outdoor system suits them quite well. Hardy Ferns. — Many British and other hardy Ferns begin growing towards the end of April or early in May, and the uncoiling of the fronds may be taken as the signal for planting. Peat and loam in equal parts suit them. Planting Chrysanthemums. — Young Chrysanthemums, whether raised at home or bought from a florist, may be planted now. They may either be put direct into the places where they are to flower, or planted a yard apart in a reserve bed, and lifted as they show bud. When plants are being bought, the purchaser should make a point of choosing both early and late varieties, so that he may get a succession of bloom. The following are good : — 203 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May 1-15 Early Mcdiutn Late Horace Martin, Carrie, yellow Bronze Edith Pag- yellow Gertie, pink ram (s.) Madame Desgranges, Goacher's Crimson Edith Pagram, pink (s.) white Market White Flame, crimson Orange Marie Masse (s) = singles Dahlias. — May and June are the months for planting Dahlias. There is no need to hurry them into the ground early in May if the position is a cold one, as there is such a thing as a May frost ; in case of doubt the grower should be on the safe side, and defer planting till the end of the month. But he may at least prepare his ground now, by digging it two feet deep and manuring it liberally. Likewise, he may order his plants, and stakes for supporting them. The following are good : — Dainty, pink, primrose centre Harbour light, orange Harold Peerman, yellow Cactus Dahlias Ivernia, salmon fawn Radium, orange, suffused rose Ruby Grinsted, yellow and fawn Court Dahlias Blush Gem, white, mauve tip Mrs. Gladstone, blush Crimson King, red Queen of the Belgians, cream John Walker, white R. T. Rawlings, yellow Fancv Dahlias Comedian, crimson and yellow Gaiety, yellow, red and white M. Campbell, buff and crimson Novelty, rose and purple Columbine, rose Leslie Seale, lilac Single Dahlias Miss Roberts, yellow The Bride, white Bacchus, crimson Guiding Star, white Pompon Dahlias Nerissa, rose and white Sunny Daybreak, apricot 204 MAY MORNS Herbaceous and Rock Plants. — The choicest kinds of May herbaceous and rock plants are grown in pots by I~I5 nurserymen, mainly with the object of being able to meet orders at a season when the plants could not be taken up safely from the open ground. This being so, it is still possible to plant perennials, but the sooner it is done the better. Lenten Roses. — These Hellebores are closely related to the Christmas Roses, but the majority have coloured flowers. Any opportunity that presents itself of seeing the plants in bloom should be taken advantage of to take notes of the best varieties, which may be planted in shady places in September. Meanwhile, I may note the following as charming sorts : — Caucasicus Albus, cream Frau Irene Heinemann, purple, „ Lutescens, light yellow spotted Gertrude Jekyll, white Fruit Grapes. — Grape Vines will be in various stages, according to whether they were started in January, February, or March. Those which are swelling up their crop will not require a great deal of manipulation, as the tying down of the laterals, and the thinning of the berries, will both have been completed. Some stopping may be needed, however. As a rule, the ends of the fruit-bearing shoots (" laterals ") are pinched off at the second leaf beyond the bunch of fruit, but it depends upon the amount of room that there is for extension. Overcrowding through the laterals of one Vine running into those of its neighbour must be repressed. When sub-laterals start as a result of the stopping of the fruiting shoots, they should be pinched 205 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May at the first leaf, unless there is plenty of room for l~^5 them, in which case they may be allowed to extend a little. The vinery should be closed about 3 p.m. and well syringed. This will provide a moist, warm atmos- phere. The ventilators should be opened early in the morning. Later Vines should be tied and stopped, and have the bunches thinned, in accordance with previous directions. Tap the rods or use the camel-hair brush in order to spread the pollen of Grapes which are in bloom. Alnwick Seedling is a shy setter, and the brush may be used on it. Melons. — Early plants will be swelling their fruits. Four are enough for each, and six should never be exceeded. Liquid manure will help the plants. It may be made by soaking sheep droppings or other manure in water, by mixing an ounce of superphosphate in a gallon of water, or by purchasing the advertised proprietary fertilisers. Later plants will be in flower, and the camel-hair brush may be passed across the blossoms about the middle of a sunny day in order to assist fertilisation. Young plants may be top-dressed when the roots show at the top of the mounds. Peaches will now have set their fruit and stoned. While the fruit is stoning swelling ceases temporarily. Overcropping should be guarded against. Not more than two fruits should be allowed on each shoot, one only being permitted if the trees are weak. Young shoots are now growing. Only enough should be kept to provide sufficient fruiting wood for the following year ; and any shoots which it is plain would cause overcrowding if allowed to develop should be removed. Strawberries. — Plants which were forced earlier in the year may now have been cleared of fruit, and may be turned out of their pots and planted in the garden, 206 MAY MORNS May where they will yield runners for propagation, and even j^_jl a little fruit late in the season. Hoe between young plants in outdoor beds, and cut off runners as fast as they form. This will encourage growth, and the plants will quickly become strong. Spraying Outdoor Fruit Trees for Caterpillars and Grubs. — The earlier kinds of outdoor fruit, such as Cherries, Plums, and Pears, may now be in bloom ; and the Apples will soon follow them. The bursting of the fruit buds adds great charm to the garden, for fruit blossom is very beautiful. But it may be accompanied by the appearance of caterpillars, such as those of the Winter, Lackey, and Small Ermine moths, which feed on the blossoms and leaves, and in some cases ruin the crop. The Codhn grub has also to be taken into account. This pest eats its way into the fruit directly it has formed, and causes it to fall before it is half grown. Perhaps the best remedy for all these pests is Swift's arsenate paste, mixed in water at the rate of half an ounce per gallon, and sprayed on in a very line state a few days after the blossom has fallen. In the case of grass orchards the animals should be removed for about three weeks. Vegetables Kidney Beans. — In mild, sheltered places Scarlet Runner, as well as French dwarf Kidney Beans, may be sown. Ne Plus Ultra, Kentish Invicta, Best of All, and Scarlet Emperor are all good varieties of Runner, and any of them would give satisfaction. The seed should be sown nine inches apart and three inches deep, in rich soil that has been dug two feet deep. If there are two parallel rows, let them be at least six feet apart. 207 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May As before stated, Canadian Wonder is one of the best ^~^S sorts of dwarf Beans. Both plants like a sunny position, and deep, moist soil. Beetroot. — The main crop of Beetroot may be sown now, the seed being sprinkled very thinly in drills drawn not less than a foot apart, and the plants eventually thinned to nine inches asunder. Or two or three seeds may be dropped in the drills in clumps nine inches apart, and the plants thinned to one eventually. The soil should be deeply dug, but not manured. Do not forget to string loose black thread, or to fix fish netting or scares, over the bed when the seedlings show, or the birds will pull them out. Dell's Crimson, Middleton Park Favourite, Cheltenham Green-top, and Blood Red afford a good choice of sorts. All are good. Asparagus. — Heads will begin to push freely early in May. They will vary in thickness from that of a cigarette to that of one's thumb. It is best to leave the thin shoots, as they are not very satisfying on the table, and they do good service on the plants, strengthening the crowns and root stocks. Heads as thick as the little finger, or larger, may be cut when they have pushed about three inches above the soil. The knife should be pressed two inches into the earth so as to get a portion of the lower part of the stem. This will be white and hard, unless special methods of cooking are resorted to, but even if only the upper half is eaten the Asparagus is best cut fairly long, as a portion of stem is wanted to handle it by. The bed should be kept clean of weeds. Tomatoes. — Late-sown plants in seed pans or boxes should be potted or put a few inches apart in deeper boxes. Harden them in frames, so that they will be ready for planting out at the end of the month. Give them abundance of air. Early plants which are coming 208 MAY MORNS into bearing may be stimulated with liquid manure. May (See under Melons, p. 206.) I-15 Lettuces. — Thin seedlings, and plant the biggest ones out a foot apart. Sow more seed for successional crops. Winter Greens. — Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, and other winter Greens should be thinned. A last sowing of Broccoli, such as the variety Late Queen, may be made. Savoys and Scotch Kale may also be sown. Peas. — Succession rows may be sown, using an approved variety, such as Autocrat, Gladstone, or Late Queen. MAY— Third and Fourth Weeks j^ay For those who practise " bedding out," the latter I0~3I part of May will be a busy time. It is also a good period for sowing biennials for blooming the following year. Thinning and staking need attention. Flowers Bedding Out. — I have already said that the bedding- out system is still flourishing, and it has its advocates among gardeners who like to arrange their beds for two separate seasons — in autumn with bulbs, Wallflowers and Primroses for spring, in May with Geraniums, Begonias and other plants for summer and autumn. Let us glance at a few popular plants which may be used for bedding. The dwarf blue Ageratum is bright and a persistent bloomer. We saw how it could be raised from seed in an earlier chapter. Antirrhinums (Snapdragons) are among the very best of bedding plants, and, as we have already seen, will bloom in summer from seed sown the same year if raised in winter. They remain in bloom as long as Zonal Geraniums, and 209 O THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May will thrive in almost any soil, and under any weather 16-31 conditions. China or annual Asters are extremely valuable for late blooming, and make beautiful beds. Tuberous Begonias are splendid in wet summers, but are only a real success in dry ones when grown in deep, holding soil; unless, indeed, regular watering, liquid manuring, and mulching are resorted to. At their best they are glorious, and, given freedom from sharp frost, they are never liner than in October. We have seen that plants can be raised from seed in winter, but that if early-blooming plants are wanted it is necessary to start tubers in spring. Shrubby Calceolarias are mainly used as edgings, owing to their low growth. The old yellow is very bright, but the newer one. Golden Glory, is a much finer plant. Cannas make handsome beds in deep, rich soil, but they are not a great success in poor ground. Their leaves are handsome, and the spikes of bloom are not only large but very brilliantly coloured. The plumed Celosias are useful for dotting amongst dwarfer plants. They have tall, feathery plumes of crimson or yellow. Other plants that may be mentioned as useful for dotting are Abutilon Vexillarium, Fuchsias, Salpiglossis, Tobaccos (Nicotianas), and Grevillea Robusta. Cen- taurea Candidissima and Cineraria Maritima are low, silvery-leaved plants that are sometimes used in bedding. Dianthus Heddewigii, the Japanese Pink, makes pretty low beds, and, as we have seen, blooms early in summer if seed is sown under glass in winter. Of the Zonal Geraniums there are varieties grown mainly for their flowers, such as the splendid reds Paul Crampel and Henry Jacoby ; and others cultivated for their prettily- marked foliage, such as Mrs. Pollock, Flower of Spring, and Henry Cox. A silvery-leaved Geranium looks well MAY MORNS in a bed when mixed with a blue Viola, and " dotted " May with Heliotrope. This fragrant old favourite can be had 10-31 in either light or dark blue, Swanley Giant is a very fine variety. Lantanas resemble Heliotrope in the form of the flower, but the prevailing colours are scarlet, orange, and yellow. They bloom long and profusely. Lobelias may be used as edgings if varieties of the dwarf blue Erinus or Speciosa ; or as major plants if varieties of Cardinalis or Fulgens. There is the greatest possible difference between the two classes of Lobelia, the one growing only four or five inches high, and producing a dense mass of little blue flowers ; the other throwing up stems two feet high, and having large, flatfish, scarlet flowers. Marigolds are not so largely grown as they used to be, perhaps. The African is very showy, whether lemon or orange in colour. Mimuluses (Monkey Flowers) are close relatives of the Musk, but have much longer and more richly-marked flowers. They are particularly useful in shady places, which they enjoy. Both the white Tobacco (Nicotiana Affinis) and the coloured (N. Sanderae) may be used in beds, and if planted thinly they make useful "dot" plants among dwarf China Asters. Pansies make pretty low beds where the situation is cool and the soil moist ; but they do not give of their best in poor, dry soil. They should receive good soakings of water in dry weather, followed by liberal doses of liquid manure; and fading flowers should be regularly picked off. These attentions will have a great bearing on their progress. Pent- stemons have made considerable progress during recent years. They are as graceful as Gladioh, with their long, arching stems, laden with beautiful, well-shaped flowers of various colours. As we see in a later chapter, they are best propagated by cuttings in autumn, and this plan 211 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May is essential if particular varieties are to be kept true. 10-31 But mixed strains can be raised from seed in winter, like Snapdragons, and flowered the same year. A bed of Pentstemons with a broad band of dwarf Asters is delightful in late summer and early autumn. Petunias are old favourites, and reference has already been made to raising them from seed in late winter or spring. Pyrethrum Aureum, the Golden Feather, used to be grown very extensively in the days when carpet-bedding enjoyed favour, but one does not see much of it now. Its yellow leaves need regular cropping with finger and thumb to keep it dwarf. The Salpiglossis is one of the most beautiful of half-hardy annuals. Raised from seed in winter or spring, like Asters and Stocks, it produces tall, loose, arching spikes, studded with brilliant urns. It is charming when lightly mixed in beds of Asters. The Ten-week Stocks make charming and fragrant beds, but are perhaps more largely used for forming broad bands to beds or borders. Tagates Signata Pumila, or the variety Golden Ring, may be pressed into service as a plant for margins. The growth is dense, and the small yellow flowers are produced in great abundance. If raised from seed with Asters and Stocks, it will flower all the summer. Verbenas make delightful beds, and, as we have seen, seedling plants raised in winter flower profusely the same summer. If the plants tend to become straggly, the shoots may be pegged down. Ver- benas thrive in most soils. Their revival has brought several beautiful named varieties into being, among which Miss Ellen Willmott (pink) and Warley Scarlet are two of the best. These have large flowers of most brilliant colour, and are grand bedding plants. One occasionally sees the Lemon-scented Verbena (Aloysia, or Lippia, Citriodora) used as a bedding plant. It is 212 MAY MORNS worth growing in pots. It is the foliage which is May fragrant, and the perfume, which is powerful and 16-31 delicious, clings to the leaves after they have faded. Violas had special attention in an earlier chapter. If planted as late as May, they ought to be watered regularly for some time, and the flowers should be picked incessantly. Thus nursed, they will probably establish themselves. Zinnias, raised from seed like other half-hardy plants, enjoy some amount of favour as bedding plants. When well grown they are very handsome, as the flowers are large, brilliant, and varied in colour, and borne abundantly. Preparing and Planting Beds. — Bulbs that are taken out of flower beds in spring need not be regarded as useless. Tulips and Daffodils nearly always. Hyacinths often, do well again the following year. This is par- ticularly the case if the soil is deep and moist, and if the plants are cared for after flowering. When a bed is being cleared, the bulbs should be laid in shallow boxes with a little earth clinging to the roots as fast as they are taken up, and carried away to a spare corner of the garden, where they can be covered with soil. Wall- flowers are not worth preserving, because, as we shall see soon, they are best raised from seed every year. They may be taken to the rubbish corner forthwith. If Primroses and Polyanthuses are grown they should be taken up in clumps, with soil attached, placed in boxes, and removed to the reserve garden, where they should be planted and watered. Large clumps can be divided at the same time, and the divisions set out a foot apart in rich, moist soil. These will thicken out into good plants by autumn, and will come in admirably for the next year's spring bedding. All plants having been removed, and all remnants of foliage gathered up, the 213 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May soil should be deeply dug and the edges neatly trimmed. 16-31 Decayed manure may be dug in if the soil is very poor, but not otherwise. In setting out the fresh plants, a few leading points should be borne in mind : (i) never put many different kinds of plant in one bed ; (2) do not mix plants of different heights indiscriminately, rather have one low kind dotted with one taller kind ; (3) blend the colours in accordance with the hints given in the remarks on Herbaceous Borders, Chapter III.; (4) bear in mind the probable dimensions of the various plants when they have developed, and plant at distances which may be expected to secure a full, but not a crowded, bed ; (5) settle the plants firmly and deeply into the soil ; (6) give a good watering. Among the Roses — Disbudding — Maggots. — There is beauty in the gardens of those Rose lovers who grow a good many Tea varieties from the first outbreak of new shoots, for the stems and foliage are ruddily tinted. Amateurs who grow for exhibition must give attention to the removal of some of the shoots if they come thickly. Half-a-dozen branches will be enough for each tree. Later they must also thin the flower buds. If leaves are seen to be curling, search must be made for a small maggot, and if it is found to be the cause all curled leaves should be crushed. Watering Wall Climbers and Shrubs. — Climbers that have been recently planted against walls or in the open will be greatly benefited by soakings of water if the weather is dry. It will help any that seem to be estab- lishing themselves slowly if they are syringed every day for a week, as this will lessen evaporation, and reduce the drain upon the roots. Carnations — Staking — Enemies. — Carnations begin to throw up their flower stems several weeks before the 214 MAY MORNS blooms open, and supports should be put to them in May good time. If wooden stakes are used, care must be 1^3^ taken not to loop the flower stems tightly to them, or extension will be checked. Trouble from this cause has led to the invention of wire coil stakes. They are painted green, and cost between a shilhng and eighteen- pence a dozen. Clips cost about a shilling a hundred. If Carnations do badly, dwindling rather than growing, without any external cause, wireworm or leather-jacket grubs may be suspected. The first point can generally be settled speedily by taking the unsatisfactory plants up, when the pests will probably be found on or near them. If grubs are found, some pieces of raw Potato had better be impaled on sticks and embedded as baits near the plants. Further, holes may be made a few inches deep round the plants, and Apterite or Vaporite dropped in. Repotting Cyclamens. — Cyclamens that have gone out of bloom may now have the flower stems removed, and be repotted. Three parts of fibrous loam, one each of decayed manure and leaf mould and a good dash of coarse sand, will suit them. They should be placed on an ash-bed stage in the greenhouse, and, when they have started growing, given abundance of water. Fre- quent syringing will prove advantageous, as the plants like a moist atmosphere. Platiting-out Arum Lilies. — The beautiful Arum Lily does well in the open garden in summer, if the soil is deep and rich ; and planting it out saves house-room and trouble in watering. A simple plan is to make a trench six inches deep, place the plants in it after turning them out of their pots, press the soil around them, and give a good soaking of water. Young Hydrangeas. — Young plants of Hydrangea 215 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May which have grown from cuttings put in a few weeks ago ^^31 may now be transferred to 5-inch pots. The compost recommended for Cyclamens will suit them. When they are six inches high, the tip of the shoot may be pinched out. Fruit The Progress of Grafts. — Fruit trees that were grafted in accordance with the instructions given in March will now be growing. In addition to the grafts themselves, it is possible that shoots may be appearing on the stumps below them. All such growths should be removed, or they will deprive the grafts of sap. As the growths extend from the graft they should be supported by first tying a flower stake to the stump bearing the graft, and then tying the graft shoot to the stake. This removes any fear of the grafts being torn out by the wind. Grapes. — The thinning of Grapes in cool houses must have attention now. The watering of Vines that are growing in borders within the house must have regular attention. Early ventilation should be practised, and care taken to close the house early in the afternoon, afterwards damping down. Melons. — Early Melons will have swollen up their fruit by now, and a support should be placed under each one. A "cradle" consisting of cross strands of raphia attached to the wires under the roof will sufiice ; or a small board may be suspended from the wires and pressed below the fruit. Peaches. — Outdoor Peaches may be disbudded in the manner advised for indoor trees a few weeks ago. Trees under glass may be watered, the fruit thinned, and the shoots tied in. Strawberries. — Liquid manure may be given to pot 216 MAY MORNS plants that are now swelling fruit. Outdoor beds should May be hoed. 16-31 Vegetables Asparagus. — Continue to cut as previously advised and give a sprinkling of salt, followed by a soaking of liquid manure. These applications will strengthen the plants and improve the crop. Beans. — Scarlet Runners, of the approved sorts already named, may be sown, likewise dwarf French. Cauliflowers which are now in seed beds may be set out a foot apart in nursery beds, there to remain until the removal of early Peas or Potatoes sets a piece of ground free for them. Celery. — If early Celery is wanted, and there is a supply of sturdy young plants, a trench may be made now. After removing about eight inches of soil to the width of a foot, break up the bottom of the trench thoroughly and dig in some manure, or bone-fiour at the rate of one ounce per yard, and replace a couple of inches of the top soil for planting in. Set the plants about ten inches apart, and give a good soaking of water. Cuaimbers. — See that the plants do not get full of tangled growths. No more side shoots ought to be left than can be tied in with full room. The shoots may be stopped at a leaf beyond the fruit. Give liquid manure, and maintain a moist atmosphere. Peas. — Another sowing may be made in deep, manured, moist soil. If the shoots of Peas in bloom are pinched, the pods will fill several days earlier than if they are allowed to continue their extension. Potatoes. — The ground between Potatoes should be well hoed, in order to keep down weeds and to provide 217 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK May loose soil for earthing, which should be practised before 16-31 the tops get tall. Tomatoes must have regular attention. Plants in pots which are swelling up a crop of fruit may have water and liquid manure. They enjoy moisture at the roots, but a damp atmosphere is Hable to encourage leaf disease. It is for this reason that Cucumbers and Tomatoes do not thrive, as a rule, in the same house. May The Garden in May — A Resume Resum6 The warmer, longer days, the rapid development of plants, and the greater abundance of leaf and bloom combine to render May a pleasant month in the garden. The gardener begins to see some results of his early labours, and derives encouragement therefrom. He must not, however, begin to relax his efforts yet awhile ; his attitude should rather be to follow up a good start, and not relax in the slightest degree such advantage as he has gained. One matter on which concentration is extremely desirable is that of the subjugation of insect enemies. Aphides, slugs, snails, caterpillars, grubs, and maggots of various descriptions attack plants. Flowers, fruit, and vegetables are equally affected. All enemies become increasingly troublesome as they grow in numbers, and it should be the aim of gardeners to see that they do not increase — to attack and destroy them before they have time to spread. Fruit trees and vegetables may be sprayed, and Roses hand-picked. Sanitas and lime may be used for suppressing slugs, and Apterite or Vaporite for reducing wireworms and leather-jackets. Beautiful window ledges do much to make house fronts attractive, and some time in May existing boxes 218 Rdsume MAY MORNS may be replanted, and new ones made, in order to May provide a summer display of bloom. Bulbs from boxes may be transferred to the garden. Zonal Geraniums, Fuchsias, white and yellow Marguerites, Celosias, Cam- panulas, Asters, Ivy-leaved Geraniums and Tropoeolums are all useful for window boxes in summer. The soil should be fresh, and consist mainly of fibrous loam. There should be holes in the bottom of the boxes to permit of surplus water escaping. Plants inside windows, such as Spiraea Japonica and Pelargoniums, ought now to be in full beauty and will enjoy plenty of water. Foliage plants, such as Aralias, Aspidistras, and India-rubber Plants may be repotted. Ferns may also be repotted. Palms should be sponged, watered, and given air. Chinese Primulas may be sown for flowering the following year. Water Lilies may be planted in ponds or in prepared pools or tubs, Nymphaeas are particularly attractive. Young Coleuses may be repotted and given a light position in order to develop rich colour in the leaves. Bouvardias may be repotted when they start growing, and placed in a frame. Berry Solanums might also be repotted, but it saves trouble to plant them in the garden, and pot them up in September. A selection of Chrysanthemums, suitable for flower- ing in beds and borders during late summer and autumn, may be made, and the young plants put out. If desired they may be planted in a nursery bed, and transplanted to the positions where they are to bloom when the flower buds show. A selection of Dahlias may be made, and the young plants put out in deep, rich soil towards the end of the month. 219 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK l^ay The planting of border and rock plants should be — completed for the season. R6sum6 From the middle to the end of May those gardeners who practise " bedding-out " for a summer and autumn display may proceed with the work. China Asters, tuberous Begonias, Cannas, Celosias, Zonal Geraniums, Indian Pinks, Lobelias, Mimuluses (for shade), Pansies, Pentstemons, Petunias, Salpiglossis, Snapdragons, Ten- week Stocks, Tobacco, Verbenas, and Violas are a few of the principal plants recommended for the purpose. Bulbs that are lifted from flower beds to make way for summer-flowering plants may be put in the reserve garden. Primroses and Polyanthuses may be divided and planted in deep, rich soil. Wallflowers may be thrown away, and fresh ones raised from seed for planting in autumn. The beds should be thoroughly dug and cleaned before the summer plants are put in. Roses should be disbudded and maggots crushed. Carnations should be staked and protected from wire- worm. Cyclamens and Hydrangeas may be repotted, and Arum Lilies planted out in the garden. There will not be a great deal to do among hardy fruit, but the trees may be sprayed with arsenate solution if caterpillars or Codlin grub are troublesome. Growing grafts may be supported with flower stakes. Vines will call for varying treatment according to their stage of growth. With early Grapes, stopping, ventilating, and watering will be the principal items. Early crops will need the shoots tying down, and the bunches thinning. Melons in bearing will require supporting and feeding with liquid manure. Peaches will need thinning, and the growths training. 220 R^sum6 MAY MORNS Strawberries that are being grown in pots, and are May bearing fruit, will be benefited by liquid manure. In the vegetable garden there will still be some sowing to do. Both Runner and dwarf French Beans may be sown, likewise Beetroot. Asparagus beds ought to be bearing now ; only the thick heads should be removed, the thin ones being left to strengthen the crowns. Liquid manure will benefit the bed. Lettuces may be thinned and planted out. Winter Greens may also be thinned. A last sowing of Broccoli should be made for next spring ; likewise sowings of Savoy and Scotch Kale. Cauliflowers may be set out in nursery beds, and if early Celery is wanted a trench may be planted. Toma- toes may be hardened in readiness for planting out. Train Cucumbers, earth Potatoes, and sow successional Peas. 221 CHAPTER VI ROSE TIME June It is a poor garden that does not show Roses in June, and in the early part of the month too. Nothing is more amazing, and at the same time more delightful, than the way in which Roses bound into bloom in June after a slow drag through a cold spring. I sometimes think that Nature, who often treats us harshly with cold winds throughout April and May, which hold vegetation back and give the whole garden a pinched look — that this same domineering spirit provides compensation in an unusual acceleration of speed when the weather-brake is removed. Vegetation seems to spring as a motor does when an extra whiff of gas is given. It is, of course, a fact that plants in Arctic regions grow more rapidly, when once they are started, than plants in the south. This has been attributed by scientists to the effect of electric discharges, but the vegetable forcer in this country notices that plants which have been checked (might I not say rested ?) by hard frost grow faster, when sub- jected to heat, than others which have never had to feel the pinch of winter. It is disappointing to see plants held up by hard weather in spring, but one feels that it is almost worth it when one sees with what gusto they go ahead directly they are released. They are as full of life and joy as a dog taken off the chain. June is perhaps the most enjoyable month of the ROSE TIME whole year in the garden. Those who have mowing June under a hot sun in view will possibly demur to the suggestion that the real hard work of the year has been done ; but at least the preparatory work has been com- pleted. And mowing is not laborious in the same way as digging and path-making. The modern mower runs as easily as an aeroplane, and the cut grass has a delicious smell. The work is really only hard when the amateur wills that it shall be so by choosing an inferior machine, and using it in an unclean, unoiled state. There is one thing that I will admit — nay, with a definite object in view, gladly affirm — namely, that tasks multiply rapidly in the garden in summer. Practically all the digging, manuring, turfing, planting, and sowing have been done, and yet we are busier than ever. Some plants want watering, others staking, and others thinning. Strawberries need mulching, Gooseberries netting, early Peas gathering, climbing Roses tying, paths rolling after rain, and Grass edges trimming after the completion of the mowing. A score of things, not one of which we might think of in walking through a neighbour's garden, want doing in our own. And the apparently minor tasks sometimes take up the most time. For instance, the pricking-out of a bedful of young Cauliflowers in a distant corner of the garden may pass unoticed by everybody except the person who does the work, and yet it may have taken two hours out of a busy day. The object which I referred to in the preceding para- graph is that of suggesting to employers of garden labour that consideration is urgently called for in the busy days of summer. A gardener should not be called away to clean windows, or wash down a motor car, or pluck a fowl, and then be sharply admonished if the grass gets 223 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June too long before it is cut. A man with half an acre or more of garden, and a couple of glass houses, will not have much time for extraneous tasks in summer. Gardeners are not naturally grumpy men, but they grow tetchy when they are overworked and misunder- stood. I come back to my point, that work in the summer is not generally so laborious as that of winter. There is so much more to beguile it in the way of pleasant sights and sweet smells that such physical strain as there is is not noticed. Is a man likely to groan at having to carry water to Sweet Peas, when he can almost see the plants grow under his eyes, and when every day finds more and more colour in the buds ? Will he consider it irksome to draw a roller over the lawn when the Grass is verdant and buoyant ? Will he grumble at having to train a Rose when the pillars are being rapidly covered with a mantle of flowers ? People who have gardens should live the open-air life to the full in June. If they have writing to do, let them take it into the garden. Let them work, eat, read — yes, even sleep there. The ingenious cycle campers have devised tents of extraordinary lightness and grace. They have invented bedsteads, mattresses, blankets, sheets, and pyjamas all combined in one or two articles, which they can as good as stow away in their waistcoat pockets. Why should not we who make beautiful gardens, filling them with lovely sights and delicious odours, sleep in them ? Think of breathing fresh, invigorating air at night just as we breathe it throughout the day. Night air is every whit as good as day air — if anything, better. And we are not obliged to allow damp to penetrate our bones, and give us rheumatism for life, just because we decline to sleep between brick walls. 224 ROSE TIME June JUNE— First and Second Weeks I-I5 The Lawn June is an interesting month with the lawn. The Grass has been growing freely for several weeks. But weeds have been growing too. Some Nature lovers like to see Daisies in lawns, but the most confirmed Nature lover draws the line at Dandelions and Plantains. The average gardener objects to them all. He can tolerate a Daisy in a pasture, he can even grow special varieties in the garden border ; but he loathes any kind of Daisy on the lawn. A lawn, he will tell you, is not a meadow. It is a home for choice Grasses. He will concede a slight mixture of Clover, but nothing more. Trouble arises from the fact that many lawns are made out of pastures. When a man buys land and builds a house there is a very natural temptation to leave a certain area of the Grass for a lawn, and other strips for the Grass walks. It saves trouble and expense. Turf has not to be laid, nor seeds sown. The Grass is mown and rolled, and so made into a lawn. So far good. Mowing and rolling both have an admirable mechanical effect on pasture. They curb the strong Grasses, and give the weak a chance of asserting themselves. Thus the lawn gradually becomes finer in texture. Perhaps a mixture of soil and manure is spread on in winter, and allowed to crumble down and work in under the influence of the weather. This also has an excellent effect. But neither mowing, nor rolling, nor top-dressing will get rid of Daisies and Dandelions. Manuring rather encourages them. Those who do not like to see weeds in the Grass may turn to "lawn sand," which seedsmen sell. The amateur is a little dubious when he reads that lawn sand 225 P THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June will kill weeds and nourish Grass. He expects that what ^"^5 is injurious to one class of vegetation will be so to another, and may be curious to know what the substance is that has the peculiar effect claimed. The principal component of lawn sand is sulphate of ammonia, which is at once a destroyer and a fertiliser of plants, according to the manner of its application. Let the reader who grows spring Cabbages try sulphate of ammonia as a stimulant. He will find that if he spreads it on the soil in a very small quantity (an ounce per square yard as a maximum), it will increase the growth and deepen the colour of the plants. But if he drops a few particles on to the leaves, he will probably find that they are scorched. Now let him proceed to the lawn, and, allowing two ounces per square yard, drop the greater part of it into the heart of the weeds, and sprinkle the remainder in the lightest possible coating (it is so difficult to use a small enough quantity that it is well to add an ounce of superphosphate to it) over the Grass, The amateur now understands how lawn sand may do good in two ways — reducing weeds and stimulating Grass. I do not hold out over-bright hopes of getting rid of Dandelions and Plantains with lawn sand, I should prefer to put some sulphuric acid in a bottle, and transfer a few drops of this fierce corrosive fluid to the heart of each weed by means of a forked stick. But if the area be small, the weeds can be spudded out with an old knife. One sometimes finds a lawn go almost brown in winter when the Grass is not growing. This is probably due to the attacks of leather-jackets below the surface. Rooks and starlings reduce these pests in meadows, the former by cleverly hooking them out of the soil, the 226 ROSE TIME latter by feeding on the daddy-long-legs when they June come through at the end of summer. But rooks do ^~^5 not work freely on lawns, and although the starling is not so shy, he cannot do enough in himself. The gardener cannot very well attempt to exterminate the underground enemy, but he can help the Grass im- mensely by persistent rolling and annual top-dressing. The former helps to spread and propagate roots, the latter nourishes them. Young lawns from seed may give a good deal of trouble if the seed germinates slowly as a result of cold weather in April and May, because the weather, which retards the germination of Grass seeds, may have very little effect on the growth of strong-rooted weeds. Then, although the ground may become green, it is with weeds and not with Grasses. This is an unfortunate state of affairs, and it teaches the sufferer from it the paramount importance of thoroughly cleansing ground of weed roots when preparing it for a lawn. So far as annual weeds are concerned — that is, those which spring from seeds that lie dormant in winter — they cannot, it is true, be removed like the others, but they do not give so much trouble when the top soil is turned thoroughly over as when it is merely broken up, because they are buried considerably below their usual depth. If weeds come amid the young Grasses they should be picked out by hand, or they will overgrow the weaker plants. The tops of the young Grasses should be skimmed off with a scythe in preference to being cut with the mower, and the scything should be followed by a rolling, as this helps to "mat" the roots, and the plants to throw up more spears. A little Clover is good in a lawn, but the sower should mind what he is about when spreading the seed. 227 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June If the two are found to be mixed in one bag when they ^-^5 arrive, they should be remixed thoroughly before the seed is spread on, because the Clover seed is the heavier, and will tend to collect at the bottom. The result of this may be a superabundance of Clover in some parts of the lawn. In a season of slow germination it will ..... ^ come before the Grass, -;•;•■•'•'•• ,••••■•;■■'..■. •;.._..,. •*"''".,„ mat itself over the ground, and reduce the opportunity of the Grasses to get a good foothold. As regards mowers, three guineas seems a long price to pay for a lo-inch machine, when one of the same size can be got for a guinea, but, personally, I would pay it. There may not be much difference in the degree of ease with which the respective machines are worked for the first few months, but afterwards it will grow steadily more and more marked. A lo-inch is a suitable size. A man is satisfied with it because it runs so easily that he can get over the lawn quickly, yet it is not too heavy for a woman if she cares to indulge in a bout of mowing. The best of mowers may be rendered harsh and slow by bad management, such as neglect of oiling, and putting away wet and uncleansed. Grass should not be cut when it is really wet, nor should 228 Fig. 38.— Patching a Faulty Lawn. a. New soil. b. Level surface. c. How to cut the turf across, so that it can be easily rolled back both ways. d. How to cut the turf lengthwise. e. A faulty place marked for renewal. ROSE TIME it be left uncut more than a week throughout the summer. June A lawn can be mown much more rapidly if the Grass is ^"^5 allowed to fall than if it is collected in a box, which has to be regularly emptied. Letting the grass lie is per- missible. Rolling does most good, perhaps, in late winter and early spring, just when the Grass is beginning to grow ; but it is always beneficial after mowing, and especially after rain. Sometimes one finds that a lawn on poor ground, and where it is much worried by enemies at the root, gets bare in parts. If the weak spot amounts to an actual hole, it is best to cut it out in a neat parallelogram, lay down fresh turf, and water well (Fig. 38) ; otherwise it will suffice to spread on some soil, sow seeds, and roll. Flowers Sowing Biennials. — One of the first tasks in the flower garden is to raise a good quantity of biennial plants, such as Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves, Wallflowers, and Sweet Williams, from seed for planting out in autumn to flower the following year. Early June is an excellent time for this, because the plants have plenty of time in which to get strong by October, and at the same time they do not get in the way of other things. It is true that it is not advisable to leave them in the seed bed all the summer, unless they are sown very thinly indeed (and they are rarely sown thinly enough to escape becoming crowded before autumn), but it is generally easy to find a spare bed where they can be put out in rows a few inches apart in July. Here they can be kept healthy and sturdy by hoeing as necessary. And while the amateur is buying seed of these special biennials he may, if he likes, get packets of some 229 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June interesting hardy plants, biennial or perennial, which are l~^5 not so well known, but which are beautiful. Although the common method of getting a stock of hardy plants is to buy one or two of each kind first of all and then propagate by division, it should not be forgotten that seeds offer a means of getting a large number of plants cheaply ; the only drawback is that a year must elapse before the majority of the plants bloom. Several seedsmen offer seed of interesting hardy flowers in penny packets, and specify the number of seeds supplied for that modest sum. Doubtless thou- sands of amateurs take advantage of the system, and buy a good many things which they do not know, on the ground that the experiment will interest them, and will not cost much even if it fails. Let us, however, glance at a few special things, most of which may be sown in June. In all cases it is understood that the seeds are sown out of doors, in specially prepared beds, with the surface soil made very fine, thoroughly moistened, and drills drawn far enough apart for a hoe to be run between the rows with the object of keeping down weeds ; further, that the plants are thinned, or even set out a few inches apart in nursery beds, and finally planted out in autumn or spring. INTERESTING HARDY PLANTS THAT MAY BE RAISED FROM SEED IN JUNE Achilleas or Milfoils. — Of which there are several species or varieties, Ptarmica The Pearl being one of the best. Aconituins or Monkshoods. — Of which both the blue and the white, Napellus and its variety Albus, are fine plants. The roots are poisonous. 230 ROSE TIME Adotiis Vernalis. — The yellow spring Ox-eye, a good June plant. There is also an autumn-flowering species. ^"^5 Aethionema Grandiflora. — ^The " Persian Candytuft," which has pretty spikes of rosy-lavender flowers, and is a really charming plant. Aloysia {or Lippid) Citriodora, the Lemon-scented Verbena, which I have previously referred to as having foliage that is highly perfumed in both a green and a dry state. I ought to say that it cannot be wintered out of doors without protection. Alstromeria Chilensts, the Chilian Herb Lily, a graceful and free-blooming plant, which bears a profusion of orange, scarlet, and pink flowers in summer. When established it needs no cultivation of any kind, except to hoe for weeds ; indeed, it is better without inter- ference. Alyssum Saxatile Compactumj the yellow Rock Mad- wort, so bright in spring in beds and on rockeries ; certainly one of our most useful plants. Anchusa Italica, or the Dropmore variety, which is finer than the old species. Gentian-blue, free-blooming. We have very few plants of the colour. Androsaces, such as Lactiflora, white, and Laggeri, carmine-rose, two tiny gems for the rockery. Anemones, notably Coronaria, the Crown or Poppy Anemone, of which seedsmen now offer improved strains, such as the St. Brigid. These are splendid plants for large clumps and beds. They spread a cover- ing of Parsley-like foliage over the ground, and throw up flower stems a foot to eighteen inches high, crowned with large, richly coloured flowers. Narcissiflora, the " Daffodil Windflower," as some call it, is a pretty white- blossomed Anemone, and so is Sylvestris, the Snowdrop Anemone. 231 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June Anthericum Ltliago, the St. Bernard's Lily, and A. ^"^5 Liliastrum, the St. Bruno's Lily, are graceful white- flowered plants. Antirrhinums (Snapdragons) may be sown, although, as I have pointed out already, they flower the same year if sown under glass in winter. Aquilegias (Columbines) may be specialised by some, as they are hardy flowers of particular interest. The long-spurred varieties of Caerulea Hybrida are particu- larly charming, as the colours include some delightful shades of blue and lilac. In Californica Hybrida the prevailing hues are scarlet, orange, and yellow. Chrys- antha, yellow, is one of the most popular Columbines, on account of its colour. The true Glandulosa, lilac and white, is a greatly coveted species. It is scarce and short-lived, but extremely beautiful. Nivea Grandiflora is pure white ; and another charming sort, pure as the snow, is Munstead White. The Aradises, or Rock Cresses, are well-known dwarf plants, which form cushions of grey-green foliage on stones and in beds, and flower profusely in spring, lasting until early summer. They are very useful for carpeting flower beds in autumn, as they rob the soil of its bareness. The Armerias are interesting because they include the common Thrift and the Sea Pink. A variety of the latter called Laucheana is a particularly good plant, as it not only forms a dense cushion of fine, green foliage, but bears large quantities of crimson flowers. A white variety can also be got, but the red is a much more useful plant. Arnebia {or Macrotomid) Echioides, commonly called the Prophet Flower, which has bright yellow flowers marked with black spots, is a pretty little rockery plant. 232 ROSE TIME Arundo Donax, the Provence Reed, is a stately June Bamboo-like plant that may rise to a height of ten or ^~^S twelve feet. A covering of litter should be placed over the root stock in winter. Asclepias Tuberosa, the Swallow-Wort, produces orange flowers, and is a showy plant. Asperula Odoi-ata, the sweet White Woodruff, is an old favourite. Asphodelus Albus is the old White Asphodel, an in- teresting plant. Asters (Michaelmas Daisies) can be raised from seed. The species come true, but the varieties cannot be relied upon. Aubrietias or Purple Rock Cresses are nearly, if not quite, as useful as the Arabises, to which they form companion plants. They are charming for carpeting, or for rockwork. Their regular flowering season is spring, but they will often bloom twice, flowering in mild weather in autumn. Bougainvillea, lilac ; Deltoidea, purple ; Leichtlini, crimson ; and Violacea, violet, are all good. Alpine Auriculas may be used with Primroses and Polyanthuses for spring bedding. They are beautiful flowers, and full of interest. The large scented yellow is a delightful plant. Bellis Perennis fi. pi. is the Latin name of the double Daisy, which many esteem highly for spring bedding. Neat in growth, with large double flowers, the best modern varieties make beautiful edgings. One can get separate colours, such as red, rose, white with red centre, blush, and white. Bocconia Cordata is the Giant Plume Poppy, a tall plant with broad, handsome leaves and spikes of creamy flowers in dense clusters. I have had splendid results with this 233 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June plant on strong, moist, clay soil, where it assumed stately I~I5 proportions and stood out as one of the noblest plants in the garden. Calandrinia Umbellaia, the Rock Purslane, is an ex- tremely pretty plant, with magenta flowers, and thrives in hot positions on the rockery. A variety with rosy carmine flowers is procurable, and many will prefer the colour to that of the older plant. The Cainpamdas (Harebells, Canterbury Bells, &c.) are one of the most important of border genera, and one or other of them will be included in every order for seeds of hardy flowers for summer sowing. C. Allioni is a dainty little Alpine species with violet flowers, suit- able for the rockery. Carpathica, blue, and its white variety. Alba, are old favourites, used both on the rockery and in the border. They grow about a foot high. Fra- gilis and Garganica are blue trailers. Glomerata Dahu- rica is a fine Bellflower, rich indigo blue in colour, and growing about a foot high. Grandiflora (Platycodon Grandiflorum), the Chinese Bellflower, has large blue, cup-shaped blooms, borne in bunches on erect stems about eighteen inches high. White and double varieties are procurable. Latifolia Alba is one of the tallest of the border Campanulas, growing to three feet high. Cam- panula Medium is our old favourite the Canterbury Bell, which we can get in blue, lilac, white, rose, and striped ; and Campanula Medium Calycanthema is the cup-and- saucer Canterbury Bell, which we can get in the same colours, but with much larger flowers. Double Canter- bury Bells are also procurable. Persicifolia (the Peach- leaved Bellflower) and its varieties form an extremely valuable set. The type is blue, and there is a single white variety of it, also a semi-double white (Moerheimii) and full double blue and white forms, the last one of our 234 ROSE TIME finest border plants. Pyramidalis, the Chimney Bell- June flower, is seen oftener in pots than out of doors, but it is ^'^5 hardy, and makes an effective border plant. The type is blue, and there is a white variety. Rotundifolia is the blue native Harebell. Trachelium is a three-footer with blue flowers. Turbinata, blue, and its white variety, Alba, are dwarf growers. There are, we see, quite a large number of beautiful Campanulas of which seed is procurable, and they comprise really beautiful plants, some suitable for the border, some for beds (notably the Canterbury Bells), and some for rockeries. They give us, too, a preponderance of blue, which is a compara- tively scarce colour. Carnations are generally grown under names, and these special florists' varieties are kept true by propaga- tion from layers, as described in Chapter VII. But beautiful Carnations, admirably qualified to adorn borders, and to yield abundance of pretty and fragrant bloom for cutting, can be grown from seed. The flowers are not, of course, so large as those which one sees at Carnation shows, nor are the petals so broad and evenly folded, nor the colour markings so pure and well defined, but they are extremely pretty all the same. Centaurea Macrocephala, the Giant Knapweed, with its large heads of yellow flowers, is a notable plant ; and C, montana, the blue perennial Cornflower, is popular. Red and White Valerians (Centra nthus Ruber) are given to forming semi-wild colonies, and do not object to chalky banks. Cephalaria Alpina, sometimes known as the Giant Scabious, is a yellow-flowered perennial growing from four to five feet high. The CerastiumSy or Snow-in-Summer, make dense carpets of white foliage on the rockery and in the 235 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June border. Biebersteinii and Tomentosum are both popular ^~^5 species. Cheiranthus Marshalli is a beautiful bright orange Wallflower-Hke plant (the Wallflower bears the botanical name of Cheiranthus Cheiri), of which seeds can be got sometimes. It is a hardy perennial, of compact habit, and blooms freely, so that it is well worth growing. Its height is about fifteen inches. Chelone Barbata, which some seedsmen offer, is really a Pentstemon (P. Barbatus). It grows about two feet high, and has red flowers; Torreyi is a larger form of it. The Giant White Shasta and Moon Daisies (Chrysan- themum Leucanthemum and C. Maximum) are valuable border plants, growing about two feet high, and spread- ing, in the case of large clumps in rich, moist soil, to four or five feet across. Cimicifuga Cordifolia, the Bugwort, with its tall racemes of white flowers, is a handsome plant, worth growing in any border. The Cisiuses, or Rock Roses, can be raised from seed if desired. Convolvulus Mauritanicus is a splendid trailer, with large violet flowers, which one sometimes sees on large rockeries. Coreopsis Grandiflora and C. Lanceolata are two good yellow perennial species of a genus which is perhaps best known through its annual members, Coronata, Drummondii, and Tinctoria. C. Lanceolata is a good plant. Coronilla Varia, the Crown Vetch, with rose flowers, and growing about eighteen inches high, is also an excellent border plant. Corydalis Nobilis, the Fumitory, a dwarf plant with 236 The beautiful spotted Gum Cistus, Cistus cyprius or ladaniferus maculatus, a charming shrub for dry rockeries. ROSE TIME Ferny foliage and yellow flowers, is pretty, and will June thrive in shade, likewise on poor chalky land. It spreads ^"^5 rather too fast if left uncurbed, almost becoming a weed, so that it must be kept in check. Critcianella Stylosa, the Crosswort, grows about six inches high, and has rosy flowers. Delphiniums (several useful species of perennial Lark- spur) come true from seed, although the florists' varieties are best propagated by division. Cardinale, scarlet, three to five feet high ; Cashmirianum, blue, and its white variety, both about eighteen inches high ; Formosum, deep blue, three to four feet high, and its lighter coloured variety Coelestinum ; and Grandiflorum, deep blue, dwarf, are all good. Nor should Nudicaule be neglected. This beautiful dwarf perennial Larkspur has scarlet flowers, and is a very fine plant. The Dianthuses comprise a large number of beautiful species, prominent among which is Barbatus, the Sweet William. One can now get splendid Sweet Williams in scarlet, salmon, and pink, which come true from seed. As border plants, I consider these to be much more desirable than the Auricula-eyed, of which florists were once so proud. The Indian and Japanese Pinks are also Dianthuses. I have shown already how these can be flowered from seed the same year by sowing under glass in winter ; but they may be sown in the garden in June if desired for flowering the following year. Several of the perennial Dianthuses are beautiful plants for the rock garden, and of those which can be raised from seed I may name Caesius, the Cheddar Pink, rose ; Deltoides, the Maiden Pink, rose, and its white variety, Albus ; Neglectus, rosy carmine ; and Superbus, rose. Dictamnus Albus^ the Fraxinella or so-called " Burn- ing Bush," is a handsome and extraordinary plant. 237 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June After a hot day the plant becomes surrounded by flame ^"^5 if a match is appHed to it, and a powerful aroma is diffused. It grows three to four feet high. Digitalis Purpurea is our old friend the Foxglove, and handsome spotted forms of it can be got. The varietal name of Gloxiniaeflora indicates what the florist has aimed at. Foxglove seed may be broadcasted in the wild garden, where the tall spikes of bloom are very effective. The Doronicums (Leopard's Banes), which rank amongst the most useful of yellow-flowered perennials on account of their early blooming, may be raised from seed. The Drabas (Whitlow Grass) are pretty rock plants, and flower freely. Alpina, yellow, is one of the best known. The Dracocephalums, or Dragons' Heads, have the merit of remaining long in bloom. Ruyschiana and its variety Japonicum, the former with deep lilac and the latter with purple flowers, are perhaps the best. I have found them to do almost equally well on clayey and chalky soils. Dryas Octopetala is a charming trailing evergreen, with large white flowers that resemble Anemones. It is suit- able for the rockery. The Echinaceas have been described as " purple Sun- flowers." They are tall plants, reaching four feet in height. Echinops Ritro reminds the amateur of the sea Hollies, with its metallic blue, steel-like flowers. It grows about three feet high. One sometimes sees it in a collection of hardy flowers at a show, and is arrested by its unique appearance. Ereniuri. — Very few hardy plants have grown in 238 ROSE TIME favour so rapidly as the " Himalayan Asphodels," as the June Eremuri are picturesquely termed. They form a rosette ^"^5 of narrow-pointed green leaves close to the ground, and throw up flower stems six to ten feet in height, crowned by huge spikes of bloom. They flower in early summer, and retain their beauty a considerable time. Plants are sufficiently dear to render planting in quantity too ex- pensive for many amateurs, and yet the Eremuri are the most impressive in colonies. In these circumstances the flower lover may do well to turn to seeds as a source of supply, because he can raise stock economically by their means. Bungei, yellow ; and Himalaicus, white, are the species most sought after. Robustus, pink, is very good ; and a word should be said for the early variety of Bungei, Praecox. Erianthus Ravennae. — Among the hardy perennial ornamental Grasses Erianthus Ravennae, the "Wool Grass," may be mentioned. It is a handsome Grass, growing to six feet high, and with pretty feathery stems. Erigerons. — Several of the Fleabanes are useful border plants, notably Aurantiacus, the " Orange Daisy," and Speciosus, violet. Erodium Manescavi, the crimson Heron's Bill, is also useful. The Sea Hollies (Eryngiums) are metallic-looking flowers, the petals of which might almost be supposed at a distance to be made of blue steel. They impart a feature of interest and distinctiveness to the border, and the flowers may be dried for winter vases. Planum, blue, is possibly the best known species, but Amethystinum, blue, and Giganteum, ivory, are also popular plants. Eulalia Japonica Zebrma is a beautiful hardy orna- mental Grass, the leaves of which are marked with yellow stripes. 239 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June Eupatorium Ageratoides has pretty, white, Ageratum- i~^5 like flower heads, and comes in very useful for cutting. Gaillardias are generally represented in gardens by the varieties of Picta, which are grown as half-hardy annuals, being raised from seed sown under glass in spring. There are, however, some perennial forms, varieties of Aristata, which are hardy perennials, and may be raised from seed now. The Goat's Rue (Galega Officinalis), lilac, and its variety, Alba, white, are particularly valuable on account of the fact that they will grow on almost any soil. They do not merely live, but thrive and grow to large proportions, on very poor land. They last, too, for a good many weeks. The Gentians give us blue of so deep a tone that " Gentian blue " has come to be referred to as a standard of richness by gardeners. The plants are hardy peren- nials of dwarf growth, suitable for rockwork or the front of borders. The Gentianella (G. Acaulis) is one of the finest, the flowers being not only extraordinarily brilliant in colour, but of large size. It is glorious in a mass in spring. One finds the plant a little baffling sometimes. It may grow freely, be perfectly healthy, and form a number of buds, yet fail to expand any flowers. This is sometimes — perhaps generally — due to drought, and if the soil is dry when the plant is in bud a soaking of water may be given ; followed, if the ground is light and poor, with hquid manure. Asclepiadea, the "Willow Gentian," does best in shade. It is taller than the majority, growing to eighteen inches or two feet high. Bavarica is a beautiful species, and likes moist soil. Pneumonanthe, the " Calathian Violet," is also good. Septemfida, azure blue, is a pretty and easily grown species ; and Verna, blue, with white centre, is also an accommodating as well as a most beautiful plant. The 240 ROSE TIME grower of Gentians from seed may find that he has to June exercise patience, as germination is often slow unless the I~I5 seed is perfectly fresh. The Hardy Geraniums or Crane's Bills are brilliant if somewhat loose-growing plants. Lancastriense, a pink- flowered trailer, is one of the most useful. The Geums give brilliancy of colour, notably Coc- cineum, which is bright scarlet. Montanum, a yellow species, flowering in spring, is very useful. An interesting and very beautiful plant, which has come into prominence during recent years, is Cilia Coronopifolia. It grows about two feet high, produces Fern-like foliage, and has Phlox-like trusses of shining rose flowers. A hardy biennial, it may be raised from seed every year like a Sweet William. Glaucium Flavum, the yellow " Horn Poppy," is a beautiful hardy perennial, growing eighteen inches to two feet high, and with large, showy flowers. The Pearl Everlasting (Gnaphalium Margaritaceum) bears heads of white flowers, and may be used for winter decorations. One of the finest foliage plants for a moist place is Gunnera Manicata, the leaf stems of which are as thick as a wrestler's biceps, and the leaves six to eight feet across. It makes a grand isolated clump in a bog garden. The well-known Pampas Grass (Gynerium, or Corta- deria Argenteum), with its stately silver flowers in autumn, comes readily from seed. There is a pretty rose variety of it, and also one with variegated leaves. The Gauze Flower (Gypsophila Paniculata) comes readily from seed, and may well be grown in quantity, because it is so useful to mix in bouquets and vases. Unlike Ferns and Asparagus it is the flower heads that THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June are used. The blossoms are very small, and are borne I-15 in a gauzy mass that looks very graceful and pleasing when spangled over a bunch of large, bright flowers, such as Sweet Peas. It grows three feet high. There is a dwarf form of it called Compacta. Gypsophila Repens is a white-flowered trailing plant for the rockery, and there is a blush variety of it. The ^^ French Honeysuckle " (Hedysarum Coronarium), with red flowers, growing about two feet high, and its white variety. Album, are useful plants. The Helianthemums, or Sun Roses, are useful for the rockery, and come readily enough from seed. One or two useful Sunflowers (Helianthus) are perennials, notably Orgyalis, the " Willow-leaved Sun- flower," which has slender, drooping leaves ; and Rigidus (Harpalium Rigidum), a much dwarfer plant. The Sweet Rockets or Dame's Violets (Hesperis) are old favourites, which flower freely, and have a strong violet perfume. The type Matronalis is purple, and there are lilac and white varieties, also dwarf white and violet forms. The Heucheras are amongst the most brilliant and graceful of hardy perennials. The bright flowers are borne on spikes about two feet high. The best known species is Sanguinea, coral coloured, and there are white and rose varieties of it. Every flower lover should grow some of the Heucheras in the border or on the rockery. The Yellow Hawkweed (Hieracium Villosum), with its hoary leaves, is a useful plant for borders and rock- work. The blend of colour in leaf and bloom is very uncommon. Hollyhocks, as we saw in an earlier chapter, may be sown under glass in winter for blooming in the garden the same year, but those who have not the convenience 242 ROSE TIME for this, or prefer to treat their old favourites as abso- June lutely hardy plants, may sow out of doors in June, and ^~^5 transplant in autumn for flowering the following year. One can buy single mixed and double mixed, or separate colours of double, such as scarlet, crimson, carmine, rose, pink, violet, yellow, and white. The fringed, or Alleghany, Hollyhocks are an interesting and beautiful type. There can be no doubt that seedling Hollyhocks, grown under natural conditions in the garden from seeds, are less liable to be attacked by the fungus which has caused so much injury in the past than plants from cuttings. A pretty pale blue North American Alpine of very low growth, and suitable for moist, peaty ledges in the rock garden, is Houstonia caerulea. It is a dainty little floral gem, and comes readily from seed. The Perennial Candytufts (Iberis) are pretty, free- flowering plants, suitable for covering large stones in the rock garden, and for patches in the border. Sem- pervirens, the white evergreen Candytuft, comes freely from seeds. The Incarvilleas can also be grown from seed. Dela- vayi and Grandiflora have been mentioned in a previous chapter. The large, trumpet-like flowers are most bril- liant in colour, and the foliage is handsome. Variabilis, rosy purple, is also a good species. Isatis Glauca is a fine and graceful plant, bearing light sprays of yellow flowers. Little known at present, it is likely to become a popular border perennial. Seed can be got of a good many of the Torch Lilies {Kniphofia or Tritoma), which give so fine an effect in late summer and early autumn. They are unquestion- ably splendid plants, with their graceful foliage and tall stems surmounted by brilliant spikes of bloom. Uvaria 243 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June (or Aloides) Grandiflora, orange ; Corallina, scarlet ; I~I5 Macowanii, coral dwarf ; Rooperi, orange ; and Tuckii, bright red, are all popular kinds. Many flower lovers will certainly try some of the Everlasting Peas {Lathyrus) from seed, particularly the fine modern varieties of Latifolius, such as White Pearl, Pink Beauty, and Splendens. Lavender may be raised from seed, and this fragrant old favourite makes large bushes, which will be drawn upon freely for cutting. The Edelweiss (Lentopodium Alpinum), comes readily from seed, and thrives in poorer soil than most Alpines care for. The ^^ Kansas Gay Feather" (Liatris Pycnostachya) is picturesquely named, and it is a picturesque plant, with its tall stem clothed with bright purplish crimson flowers. L. Spicata, rosy red, is also grown. The Alpine Toadflax (Linaria Alpina), orange and purple, its variety Rosea, and the " Kenilworth Ivy" (L. Cymbalaria), a pretty white trailer, are useful plants which may be raised from seed. Linnaea Borealis is a charming trailer which too few people know. It thrives in a shady place, in moist, peaty soil. The pretty rosy pink flowers have an agreeable perfume. Linums. — Several species of perennial Flax are available, notably Arboreum, a shrubby, yellow species ; Flavum, also yellow ; Narbonense, shrubby, blue flowers, Perenne, blue, and its white and rose varieties. Such fine Lobelias as Cardinalis and its varieties ; Fulgens and its varieties (these differ from Cardinalis in having purple foliage) ; Syphilitica, a fine blue species ; and Gerardii, a hybrid between the last named and 244 ROSE TIME Cardinalis, are all worthy of being raised in quantity, for June they make fine groups and beds. ^"^5 The Honesty (Lunaria Biennis or Annua), the rosy purple flowers of which are followed by silvery, fiat seed pods, is a very useful plant that may become naturalised, and, though nominally biennial, grow year after year. It is of neat habit, and blooms freely, so that it is worthy of more prominent positions than those which it often fills in the wild garden. There are white, crimson, and variegated-leaved forms of it, all of which may be raised from seed. The seed pods are very useful for winter vases. The Perennial Lupins give us some valuable plants, notably Arboreus, the Tree Lupin, with scented yellow flowers ; its white variety Snow Queen, which is a really beautiful plant, bearing large spikes of pure white flowers ; and Polyphyllus, blue, and its many varieties, which include white, lilac, blue and white, pale blue, and rose. The Perennial Campions (Lychnis) are showy plants, none more so than Chalcedonica, scarlet. There are white and pink varieties of it. Coronaria, crimson, with hoary foliage, and its varieties ; Flos-Jovis, the Rose Campion, with its white form ; Fulgens, a dwarf scarlet species; Haageana, a dwarf scarlet; Lagascae, a beautiful little rock plant with rosy flowers ; and Viscaria Splen- dens, the scarlet ** Catchfly Campion," are also good. The Rosy Loosestrife (Lythrum Salicaria Rosea) is a very line border plant, which luxuriates in moist, cool soil. The Musk Mallow (Malva Moschata), which produces abundance of pink flowers, and its white variety. Alba, have a good many admirers. Another interesting "Mallow" is Malvastrum Coccineum, which is a rose- coloured trailer suitable for the rockery. 245 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June The Welsh Poppy (Meconopsis Cambrica), with its ^~^5 bright pale yellow flowers, is a pretty dwarf plant, and there are orange and double varieties of it. More in- teresting, perhaps, to many is the Himalayan Poppy (M. Wallichii), a beautiful plant, with large pale blue flowers. Michauxia Cajnpanuloides, called by some hardy plants- men the Persian Bellflower, is a very beautiful plant, growing three feet high or more, and bearing large white flowers. The Monkey Flowers (Mimulus) have been recom- mended previously as handsome plants for shady beds, and suitable for propagation from seed under glass in winter for blooming the same year. But they may be treated as hardy plants if desired. The Bergamot (Monarda Didyma)may be grown from seed, and perfumed plants are always appreciated. Morina Longifolia, an evergreen, with rose flowers, is worth growing. The Forget-me-nots (Myosotis) are immensely popular, and there is no wonder, considering how freely and how long they bloom in spring, and how pleasing their blue flowers are. Alpestris and its white and rose varieties are very popular for beds, and they make a nice carpet for bulbs. There are dwarf selections, with blue and rose flowers respectively, and one with yellow leaves, which make pretty carpets and margins. Dissitiflora and its white variety are great favourites ; they are dwarf and they bloom early. Myosotis Palustris is the true Forget-me-not. It is a natural bog plant. The other species do well in moist soil, but are not really bad in light, dryish soil. There is a white variety of Palustris, and also a blue with a white eye. Rupicola, with Gentian-blue flowers, is a charming rockery plant. 246 ROSE TIME Sylvatica is the Wood Forget-me-not ; there is a white June variety of it. All the Forget-me-nots may be raised in ^~^S quantity from seed in summer, and planted out in autumn for flowering in the following spring, T/ie Cat Mint (Nepeta Mussini) has its admirers. The flowers are lavender coloured. The Nierembergias are graceful. They are shrubby plants growing about a foot high. Gracilis, with white flowers in summer, is the best known. The Evening Primroses (Oenothera) ought to be well represented in gardens, as they are free-blooming and showy plants, whose beauty is not confined to eventide, as the popular name might suggest. Acaulis or Taraxa- cifolia, a dwarf species with white flowers, and its yellow variety Lutea, are excellent. Biennis, the ordinary Evening Primrose, is a larger and looser plant with pale yellow flowers. There is a fine variety of this often grown under the name of Lamarckiana. Caespitosa is a beautiful night-blooming species, with immense large, pure white, fragrant flowers ; it is one of the finest of all. Drummondi Nana Alba is another valuable white sort. Fruticosa Major, yellow, is of medium height (about eighteen inches), and is one of the most free- blooming of all ; the flowers are yellow. Missouriensis, or Macrocarpa, is a yellow-flowered trailer, one of the largest. The Ononis, or Rest Harrow, is a pretty plant. Rotundifolia has rosy flowers in late spring, and grows about two feet high. The Golden Drop (Onosma Echioides or Tauricum) is a charming yellow flower for border or rockery, and becomes an immense favourite with all who grow it. The Asiatic Bellflower (Ostrowskia Magnifica) is less familiar than the preceding, but it is a splendid plant, 247 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June and worth adding to any large border. It grows I-15 four feet high or more. The Hlac flowers are bell- shaped. The Poppies (Papaver) are, of course, an extremely valuable genus, giving us plants of rapid growth, hand- some foliage, and large brilliant flowers. The yellow Alpine Poppy (Alpinum), and its varieties, which include white, orange, and pink, are pretty rockery plants. The Iceland Poppy (Nudicaule), yellow, and its numerous varieties, among which white, orange, striped, pale yellow, and semi-double are all favourites, are also ex- cellent for rock gardens, as well as for beds. Blooming abundantly in late spring and early summer, their flowers are light, graceful, and pleasing. Among the larger perennial Poppies the varieties of Orientale, which grows three feet high, and has large scarlet flowers, are in great demand for mixed borders. One may get crimson, pink, orange, salmon rose, salmon orange, and semi-double scarlet, all with enormous flowers. Papaver Pilosum, with its " art " shade of orange buff, flowering in late spring, is a distinct and attractive Poppy ; it grows about a yard high. The Pentstemon has now become a recognised florists' flower, and named varieties are propagated by means of cuttings in autumn, but a splendid collection can be grown from seed. The amateur should ask for a mixed prize strain of florists' Pentstemons. He may, if he likes, grow some of the species also, such as Glaber, violet, a nice plant for the rockery ; Murrayanus, scarlet ; and Speciosus, violet, a good rock garden plant. These come true from seed. Phloxes are on the same plane as Pentstemons. Most amateurs hke to get some of the fine florists' varieties named in a previous chapter, and keep them true by 248 ROSE TIME cuttings or division ; but mixed seed of a good strain June gives some nice sorts. ^~^5 The Large Winder Cherry {Phys'dVis Francheti), with its orange pods in autumn, is a fine and showy perennial which may be raised from seed. The Chinese Bellflower (Platycodon) is a plant which grows steadily in favour. Grandiflorum Mariesi, with large, blue, bell-shaped flowers about a foot high, is a splendid plant, and there is a white variety of it. The Jacob's Ladders (Polemonium) are handsome plants. Caeruleum, the Greek Valerian, has blue flowers, and there is a white variety of it. One of the most popular is Richardsoni (Humile), also blue, and growing about a foot high. It is a beautiful and very useful plant. The white variety of it is very desirable. The Polygonums. — The finest of the Knotweeds is that magnificent cHmbing shrub Baldschuanicum, one of the very best plants that we have for arbours, pillars, and pergolas. The flowers are borne in immense and grace- ful masses, and are white or blush. The plant comes readily from seed, and when it has got well established thinks nothing of pushing shoots from twelve to twenty feet long in one season. It is at its best in a rich, moist, heavy soil, and will be in beauty for many weeks. The Cinque/oils (Potentillas), with their Strawberry- like leaves and brilliant flowers, single and double, are a good deal sought after. Pratia angulata, a creeping plant for the rock garden, is grown as much for the large, violet berries as for the white flowers. It likes a moist, cool place. The Primroses (Primula species and varieties) make a claim on our attention which cannot be denied. The Primrose proper (Vulgaris) is yellow, and a wilding, but florists have given us splendid strains of coloured 249 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June varieties, large in bloom, rich and varied in hue, and re- I~I5 markably free-flowering. Beginning to bloom in spring as small plants from the previous summer's sowing, they grow as they flower, and in rich, holding soil make huge clumps which can be divided after flowering. The New Blue Primrose is a particularly fine variety. The Poly- anthus (Primula Variabilis) is scarcely inferior to the Primrose ; in fact the two plants may be grown in the closest possible association. Very large flowers, and considerable diversity of beautiful colours — cream, prim- rose, yellow, white, rose, lilac, crimson, scarlet, blue, and purple distinguish the Polyanthus. The Ox-lip (Primula Elatior) is represented by several pretty colours. Among the species, Denticulata, lilac ; Japonica, purplish crim- son, best in moist places ; Farinosa (Bird's-eye Primrose), lilac, silvery foliage, an early bloomer ; Pulverulenta, a new violet Chinese species with mealy stems ; Rosea, rosy carmine ; Sikkimensis (Himalayan Cowslip), yellow ; Verticillata (Abyssinian Primrose), citron, very fragrant ; Villosa, rose, nice for the rockery ; and Viscosa, rose, white centre, are all desirable. Seed can be got of several charming varieties in most cases ; thus, Cash- miriana is a fine form of Denticulata ; there are white, rose, carmine, crimson, and striped varieties of Japonica ; there is a large form of Rosea called Grandiflora ; and there are purple and violet varieties of Villosa. The Sieboldii hybrids are beautiful Primulas, and can be bought in mixed colours. The Primroses are so beauti- ful, so varied in habit and colour, so useful alike for beds, borders, and rockwork, so early blooming, so easily grown, that they are well worthy of special study. The Self-heal (Prunella Grandiflora) is a purple- flowered dwarf perennial, flowering in early summer. The Florists Pyrethrums are frequently grown under 250 ROSE TIME name and increased by division ; but seeds of good June mixed single and double strains are procurable, and I-I5 will yield pretty varieties of different colours. The Fern-like foliage of these Pyrethrums, pushed early in spring, is attractive. The Ramondias were specially mentioned in my previous notes on rock plants, and I need only add now that they may be raised from seed if desired. Romneya Coulteri, the Californian Tree Poppy, with its large, shimmering white flowers, the beauty of which is greatly enhanced by the golden stamens and cut leaves, is a glorious plant, and one which every grower of hardy plants ought to try. It is of shrubby habit. Although nominally hardy, it should be given a sheltered position, where, in deep rich soil, it will grow into a splendid object in June. The Cone Flowers (Rudbeckia) are largely grown in herbaceous borders, and Newmanii, or Speciosa, which grows about eighteen inches high, and bears orange- yellow, dark-centred flowers in July, is particularly popular. Californica, yellow and brown, is a much taller plant. Laciniata Flore Pleno (Golden Glow), with double yellow flowers, is very fine. All of these can be grown from seed. Two at least of the perennial Soapworts (Saponaria) are worth growing — Ocymoides, a pink trailer, flowering late in spring ; and Officinalis Flore Pleno, double rose, fragrant, blooming in summer. The Saxifrages are dainty rock plants, and it is highly interesting to grow them from seed. Practically all are spring bloomers. Aizoon, white, leaves with silvery margins, dwarf ; Cordifolia Splendens (Megasea), crimson, a relatively large plant, with broad, thick, ever- green leaves ; Cotyledon, with red spots, silvery foliage, 251 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June a tall plant ; Hostii, white with purple spots, leaves en- ^"^5 crusted with silver, dwarf ; Hypnoides, white, dwarf ; Longifolia, white, graceful spikes eighteen inches high, leaves encrusted with silver ; Muscoides Atropurpurea, purplish rose, dwarf ; and Macnabiana, white with crimson spots, twelve to eighteen inches high, are a few specially interesting Saxifrages which may be raised from seed. The Caucasian Scabious (Scabiosa Caucasica) is one of our best hardy perennials, as the large blue flowers are particularly rich in colour. It grows about two feet high, and blooms in summer. There is a white variety of it. The Stonecrops (Sedum) are much esteemed as rockery plants, particularly Amplexicaule, yellow ; Rupestre, yellow ; Fabaria, pink ; and Sempervivoides, scarlet. Seed of all these can be got. The Houseleeks (Sempervivum) are greatly valued for the rockery. Arachnoideum, the Cobweb Houseleek, rosy flowers in summer, is one of the best known. Senecio Macrophyllus is a particularly fine species of Groundsel, with broad leaves, and large corymbs of yellow flowers, which are produced in late summer. Two or three of the Catchflies (Silene) are charming perennial plants, notably Acaulis, very dwarf, rosy flowers, a spring and summer bloomer well suited to the rockery ; Schafta, rose, dwarf, a summer bloomer ; and Alpestris (Alpine Catchfly), white, dwarf, flowering in late spring and early summer. The Moonwort (Soldanella Alpina) with pretty fringed violet flowers in spring, is a suitable plant for the rockery. The Golden Rods (Solidago) are tall, late blooming plants, with dense spikes of yellow flowers. 252 ROSE TIME The Sea Lavenders (Statice) are popular on account June of their graceful habit and charming shades of colour. I~I5 Incana Hybrida, which varies from pink to blue, blooms in summer, and grows about a foot high ; Latifolia, lavender, a summer bloomer, two to three feet high ; and Suworowi, rosy purple, one foot, summer bloomer, are all very desirable plants. Brompton Stocks are among the most popular of hardy biennials. Sown in summer, thinned, and planted out in autumn, they will form beautiful breaks of colour in spring. They can be bought in separate colours, such as yellow, flesh, rose, crimson, white, carmine, blue, and violet, if desired, or in mixture. The popularity of the Ten-week Stocks tends to obscure these fine biennials, but it ought to have the opposite effect. Siveet Williams were mentioned in the remarks on the genus Dianthus, and as there said, they are amongst the best of hardy biennials, admirably adapted for summer sowing, autumn planting, and late spring and summer blooming. The Meadow Rues (Thalictrum) are interesting and attractive on account of their Maidenhair-like foliage. Adiantifolium and Aquilegifolium are both very useful hardy border plants ; in neither case are the flowers conspicuous. The Spiderwort (Tradescantia Virginica) is worth growing. There are several varieties of it, which can be bought in mixture. The Globe Flowers (Trollius) can be raised from seed if desired, and are useful spring bloomers, with yellow or orange flowers. Tunica Saxifraga, a dwarf plant which bears masses of white flowers in early summer, has a good many admirers. 253 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June The Mulleins (Verbascum), notably Olympicum, are ^~^5 tall plants, with spikes of yellow flowers in early summer. The Speedwells (Veronica) may be raised from seed, and Gentianoides, with its bright blue flowers, is one of the best known. There is a larger variety of it named Major, and one with variegated leaves. Violas and Pansies may be raised in summer, although florists' named varieties are generally grown from cuttings. Pansies that are sown under glass in late winter bloom the same year, but seeds may be sown outdoors in summer for yielding plants to flower the following year. Many of the large seedsmen have their own special strains of show and fancy Pansies, but the majority offer such strains as Cassier's and Trimar- dean, which are very good. Wallflowers must be raised in quantity for spring bedding, their evergreen foliage, bright colours, and delicious perfume rendering them universal favourites. Several named varieties, such as Belvoir Castle, a dwarf yellow of brilliant colour ; Cloth of Gold, yellow: Blood Red, dark red ; Eastern Queen, chamois ; Harbinger, early red ; and Tom Thumb, a dwarf yellow, come true from seed. The double Wallflowers are also fine plants. If care is taken to grow Wallflowers thinly, and to set them out a foot apart in summer, they make sturdy, bushy plants, and bloom abundantly in April and May. They do not give half their beauty when allowed to stand thickly in the seed beds for several months. The long lists of plants given shows what a vast amount of beautiful material can be raised in Nature's own way — through the medium of seeds — for the decoration of flower gardens. The great majority 254 ^ 1 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Hl i ^Hi-^^^ ^m ^^^^^^^^ > ^1 ^^^^^^^^K 1 ^^^^^^B, ■- t.^ 1 ^^^m!^m<. . . J SBkjSB^ ^^^^^i-A^r^m w^SpiL."'^Ss^^ if^ '' "^;^_ ^■■■p^^^^ r^ m ^^^F' -"^^Mh^^Hk- " 1 ^-^'Z ,^ j^HJI^^ P ^^. •-: J "i--e^^SBJP^^B|^^''t ' »-' ' ^"^ t:^^^ r " '^•^./^t '^^ The rL'Ri'i.E ml' EIN, \ERIiAScrM I'l lOEMCEU M, A HANDSOME BORDER I'LANT. ROSE TIME may be raised in early summer and planted in June autumn. ^"^5 Planting Dahlias. — Early in June is not too late to plant. With deep, well-worked, manured soil, and sturdy plants, success will follow. The plants should be made quite firm in the soil and given a good watering. Put them at least a yard apart, and give them their stakes at once. Potting Chrysanthemums. — Florists' Chrysanthemums, raised from cuttings in winter, repotted, hardened in an unheated frame, and deprived of their first buds, must be placed in their flowering pots soon. Growers for exhibition use large pots, and a compost the principal component of which is fibrous loam. The pots should not be smaller than eight inches across at the top, and need not be larger than nine inches. A fourth of leaf mould and a liberal dash of coarse sand should be added to the loam, and the whole well mixed. The pots should be well drained with crocks protected by moss or flakes of leaf mould. The compost must be well rammed round the ball, so as to be made quite hard. A space of two inches should be left at the top for holding water. The plants should be shaded for a few days, but after they have started growing again they may stand on a bed of cinders in the full sun. It is not a bad plan to shade the pots, however, as if the sun is prevented from striking directly on to them water will not be wanted so often. Great attention should be devoted to watering throughout the summer, as if the soil gets absolutely dry, and breaks away from the side of the pot, the plants are sure to suffer. Seedling Cinerarias and Primulas, raised by sowing seed a few weeks previously, may be getting crowded 255 June 1-15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK now, as they will have formed rough leaves. Any time after that stage has been reached, they may be pricked off three inches apart in other boxes, or, if 3-inch pots are available, singly in these. Fruit Grape Vines. — With the increased sun heat, the temperature of vineries will run up to 85° or 90°, and artificial means of heat- ing will be required no longer. It does not matter how high the temperature rises so long as the ventilators are managed properly, and plenty of water is used to prevent dryness. If the grower cannot trust himself to rise early in the morning, he should leave the ventilators open an inch all night. It is dangerous to leave a house closed, even till eight o'clock, on a sum- mer morning, especially after a spell of dull weather, as air moisture will have condensed on Fig. 39.— Thinning Grapes. a. Bunch unthinned. b. Bunch thinned, and berries swelling evenly. c. Point berries which must not be cut out. d. Side berries which must be cut off, as denoted by the dark cross lines. the berries, and if the sun comes out suddenly and dries this up the berries will " scald." Grapes on Vines that started without any artificial heat will now be at the thinning stage, and should be attended to, 256 ROSE TIME Thinning Peaches and Nectarines. — These fruits will now be swelling fast. There is always a temptation to keep every fruit which sets, but it should be overcome if the crop is heavy. Two fruits may be permitted on strong shoots, but only one on weak ones. Should the amateur feel in doubt, let him content himself with two fruits to every square foot of space which the tree covers. American Blight. — Should any white fluffy tufts begin to gather on fruit trees, attack them at once with a few drops of methy- lated spirit. A brown aphis lurks beneath the fluff, the common name of which is American Blight. It is one of the worst of all fruit enemies, and must not be allowed to spread. Strawberries. — Fruit will be showing in the rows, and clean straw should be laid between the plants in order to keep the berries from contact with the soil. Lawn mow- ings do not make a good substitute, as the Grass adheres to the berries when wet. Remember that keen bird eyes are watching the Strawberries, and that hungry black- birds and other feathered enemies will swoop down as soon as colouring begins. Fish netting must be called into use as a protection. If there is plenty of it, it may be fixed on a framework a few feet above the plants, then the grower can gain access to all the fruit by lifting the netting at one corner. If laid just above the rows, it has 257 R June 1-15 Fig. 40.— Thinning Peaches, a. The right fruits to retain. b. The ones to be removed. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June to be raised all along to get at the fruit. If early plants ^~^5 are wanted for forcing, the tips of runners that have formed plantlets may be removed ; this will strengthen the layers. Gooseberries. — If the crop is abundant, some of the berries may be removed and made into tarts. The fruit may "taste of the tree," but the early gathering helps the fruit that is left to swell up to a large size. Vegetables Beans. — More Runners and dwarf French Beans may be sown. Broad Beans may be in full bloom ; if so, a sharp look-out should be kept for black fly in the growing tips, as it appears about the time that the plants are in flower. Directly it is seen, pinch off the tips and destroy them. See that early crops of French Beans grown in houses do not linger on in a moribund state, and get covered with red spider, or it may spread to the fruit. Gather the pods as fast as they come into use, and remove the plants directly they cease cropping. Early Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts. — Early varieties of Broccoli grown for use in autumn, also Brussels Sprouts, may now be planted out if there is a piece of ground at liberty. A few forward rows of Peas or Pota- toes will sometimes make room for them. The ground should be made firm. Two and a half feet apart all ways will not be too much. Celery. — Where ground is at liberty, a trench of Celery may be prepared in the manner previously advised, and planted. Give a good watering afterwards, and shade the trench if the weather is very hot. Rosette Colewort. — This useful little Green is very good for sowing on any piece of spare ground in the kitchen 258 ROSE TIME garden in early June. It is neat and compact in growth, and therefore will do a foot apart. Late Peas. — A last sowing of Peas may be made, if there is ground available. It is a good plan to draw a wide drill three inches deep, and give it a soaking of liquid manure before sprinkling in the seed. Leeks. — Plants raised in March or April will now be strong, and may be planted nine inches apart in drills six inches deep and eighteen inches asunder. The soil ought to be deep and rich. Hoeing. — Regular hoeing will be needed to keep down weeds, and there is a further incentive to practising it in the fact that by crumbling the soil it prevents cracking and checks the escape of moisture. I believe that I have already mentioned the Sproughton hoe. This some- what expensive but valuable tool is a great aid to rapid work. It may be used in all cases where a Dutch or push hoe is appli- cable, and in part also where a draw hoe would be used, but is not a good substitute for the latter where a mat of strong weeds has to be chopped out. Cucumbers in Frames ought to be growing rapidly now, and it helps to keep them moving if the frame is closed about 4 p.m., as this bottles up heat, and keeps the frame warm throughout the night. A good watering 259 June 1-15 Fig. 41.— Training Frame Cucumbers. Hotbed. b. Soil. Raised mound of compost. , How to stop the plants at the dark lines. How side shoots will then grow and bear fruit. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June should be given at the time of closing, as this maintains ^~^5 a moist atmosphere, which is favourable to healthy progress. The principal shoots should be pegged down to the bed at a sufficient distance apart to prevent crowding. Fruit will form on the side shoots, which should be pinched a leaf beyond the fruit. Carrot Maggot. — If any plants in the Carrot bed are seen to be turning rusty, they should be removed and burned, the bed thinned, the soil trodden firmly against the crowns, and some ashes, moistened with paraffin oil, sprinkled between the rows. The trouble brewing^ which comes from a small maggot that hatches from eggs laid at the tops of the roots by a fly, will then be checked. Onion Maggot. — Young Onions go off in very much the same way as Carrots, also from the attack of a maggot, but this results from eggs laid on the leaves. The foliage should be rendered distasteful to the egg- laying fly by spraying on a paraffin-oil and soft-soap emulsion, made by boiling a pound of soft soap in a quart of water, stirring in half a pint of paraffin, and churning all up together with a syringe in a tub con- taining six gallons of water. June JUNE— Third and Fourth Weeks 16-30 Flowers Fibrous-rooted Begonias. — The tuberous Begonias are rightly esteemed for their magnificent flowers, and we have seen how they may be raised from seed in winter, or grown from tubers in spring. So fine are they that they are apt to overshadow the fibrous section, as far as summer flowering is concerned. The non-tuberous 260 ROSE TIME Begonias, such as Gloire de Lorraine, Turnford Hall, and Semperflorens, are greatly esteemed for winter flowering under glass, and the qualities which render them desirable for that purpose, namely, compact habit, profuse blooming and bright colours, distinguish certain varieties when grown as flower garden plants in summer. Two which may be highly re- commended, a red and a white, are Crimson Gem and Snow- flake. They make charming lines and beds. Young plants may be purchased and planted now, in rich moist soil. Growing fine Fuchsias. — Fuchsias that were struck from cuttings in spring, repotted when rooted, and pinched to make them bushy, will now be sturdy httle plants. They may be grown into fine specimens by giving them pots two inches larger, pinching them again when they begin to make fresh growth, and feeding them with liquid manure three times a week. Disbudding Prize Chrysanthe- mums. — Chrysanthemums that are being grown in pots for large blooms will have made good progress. If treated as previously advised, they will now be in their flowering pots (8 or 9 inch), and have three main stems. Various side shoots will break from these growths, but they must not be allowed to extend, or the prospect of getting fine flowers will 261 June 16-30 Fig. 42.— Stopping Fuchsias. a. Tip to be removed at the dark line. b. Tlie first side shoots growing. c. The second lot of shoots, resulting from the next stopping. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June 16-30 be very poor. As fast as breastwood shows, it should be pinched out, thus restricting the plants to three shoots. It is natural for Chrysanthemums to form this trio of main growths. The shoots start after the production of an early flower bud, either in April or May, and grow on throughout the remainder of the year, eventually pro- ducing one large flower each. If the side shoots which start from them were allowed to extend at will, the energies of the plants would be spread over a greater number of shoots. More flowers would be produced, but they would be smaller. When the plants are stood out of doors for the summer, the three growths should be tied to stakes, in order to guard against their being broken by gales. The position chosen should be a sheltered one, if possible, but not overshadowed by large trees. The plants benefit by full exposure to sun. Hardy Biennials and Perennials. — ■ Seeds may be sown as advised in the previous section. A task that will be likely to call for early performance in herbaceous borders is that of staking. The plants will be full of growth now, and many will be developing flower stems, The habit of the plants, and their behaviour under 262 Fig. 43.— Staking Herbaceous Plants. a. The wrong way. b. The right way. ROSE TIME exposure to strong wind, will give the grower a ready guide to their requirements. Dwarf, bushy, compact plants like Paeonies will not need stakes, but tall colum- nar growers, such as Michaelmas Daisies, will certainly call for support. It is frequently better to fix three stakes to one plant, and loop string round them, thus enclosing the growths, than to use one stake and tie the plant tightly round the middle. A little extra expenditure in stakes is fully compensated for by the more graceful and natural appearance of the plants. Herbaceous plants that are growing in poor, shallow soil will be greatly benefited by soakings of water and liquid manure. One sometimes sees plants doing badly when the soil is apparently moist and fertile. Before the amateur seeks for some secret cause, let him note if there are large trees, such as Elms, or a large hedge, such as Laurels, near. If so, he may safely assume that the roots have got into the her- baceous border, and are making the most of the good things which he has put there. The more freely he manures, the more eagerly the roots will come. One way of coping with a difficulty of this kind is to cut a trench between the border and the hedge or trees, and sever any roots which are found. ^i*^' 44.— Disbudding Roses. Insuring fine Roses.— W\'&). the «• ^rSined''^"^'^' ^"*^ '° ^ Rose season close upon us, we can do a great deal to insure fine flowers by thinning the buds and feeding the plants with liquid manure. The flower buds generally come in clusters, 963 June 16-30 Small side buds to be re- moved at the dark lines. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June the central or " crown " bud being the largest. This 16-30 buci makes a much finer flower if the outer buds are picked off than it would do if the whole of the cluster were left. But the grower should only disbud a selected number of show varieties ; to make a general practice of it would deprive Rose gardens of much of their beauty. It should certainly not be adopted with dis- tinctly garden Roses like Griiss an Teplitz, nor with climbers. Propagating Mai- niaison Carnations. — The Malmaison Car- nation has a large following still, although it may have suffered somewhat owing to the rise of the American section. When grown successfully, the Mal- maisons have immense white, blush, pink, rose or crimson flowers, sweetly scented. Princess of Wales, Mrs. Trelawny, Lady varieties. Growers of Fig. 45.— Layering Carnations. a. Part of the old plant. b. The layer. c. Stem cut and pebble inserted. d. Stem denuded of leaves. e. Soil in which the layer is pegged. f. Original soil. Carlisle, and Thora are good them who have plants may multiply them by layering the young growths on the outside of the old ones. It facilitates this operation if a bed of loam, leaf mould, and sand can be made in a frame, and the Carnations planted in it. A slit an inch long may be made by running a knife along half-way through the stem, and pegging the 264 ROSE TIME latter down to the soil. When roots have pushed freely, June the stem can be cut through, and the young plant thus I0~30 severed from its parent. Azaleas, Camellias, Deiitzias, and Lilacs. — These plants, grown for spring flowering, will now be out of bloom, and it benefits them, as well as saves labour in watering, to stand them out of doors with the pots plunged in ashes. Privet Hedges. — Its capacity for establishing itself in the poorest of soils, its rapid growth, and its reputed evergreen nature (it is not a genuine evergreen) cause the oval-leaved Privet to be largely used as a hedge plant. It is benefited by being pruned twice a year, the first time at the end of June, and the second about the end of September. This is exclusive of the cutting- back at planting time — a practice that ought never to be neglected, as it conduces to making the plants thick at the base. Pruning Flowering Shrubs. — The great majority of the flowering shrubs bear their best flowers on shoots made the previous year. This means that the proper time for pruning them is after they have bloomed, because then the wood which has borne flowers can be removed, and the plant will have several months before it in which to make fresh shoots for blooming the following season. Fruit Thinniftg Fruit. — It is not often that amateur fruit growers practise thinning. They are too pleased to have the fruit to part with any of it. This is all very well in its way, but it is possible to have too much even of a good thing. There are years in which fruit trees escape all the obstacles to heavy cropping — frosts and 265 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June insects included — in so remarkable a degree as to be 16-30 roped with fruit from top to bottom. If the whole of the crop ripened, two things might be counted on : very small indi- vidual fruits, and a poor crop the following year. It is a safe rule with Apples and Pears to leave only two fruits on each spur ; if large fruits are wanted, only one should be allowed. Any thinning that is required should be done now, before the fruit has swollen much. .0 Fig. 46.— Thinning Apples. a. The right fruits to retain. 6. The fruits to be removed. Su7nmer Pruning. — Fruit growers differ as to the best time for and method of sum- mer pruning, but there are very few who do not believe that summer pruning of some kind is good. It prevents the sum- mer side shoots, or breast -wood, on which it is practised, from getting into a crowded mass, and by exposing the older wood to sun and air Fig. 47.— Summer Pruning : Apple. a. Side shoots to be shortened. b. Side shoots not to be shortened. c. Leading shoot not to be shortened. facilitates wood 266 pening, whicl) ROSE TIME is favourable to fruitfulness. Some growers like to June operate twice : the first time about the middle of June, i"~30 when the shoots have extended a few inches, and when the tip is nipped off ; the second about the end of July, when the secondary shoots which have broken as a result of the first pinching are stopped. Others prefer to make one operation of it, and prune only at the end of July or in the early part of August, shortening the shoots then to six leaves. Experiments are interesting, and fruit growers may try both plans, and compare results. Watering Wall Fruit Trees. — Fruit trees on walls are apt to suffer from drought in hot weather, and when they fall into ill-health the grower strains his inventive faculties to find a reason for it. The handle of his pump will often solve the problem. Weakly, canker-stricken, and heavily cropped trees are all greatly improved by waterings that are followed by soakings of liquid manure. Red Spider on Vines. — Red spider sometimes attacks Vines which are swelling up a crop of fruit, and unless it is checked does much damage. A simple remedy is to paint the hot-water pipes with sulphur wash, and then turn the heat on. At the same time, remember that red spider is greatly fostered by a dry atmosphere, and damp down more freely. Melons. — The growths of bearing plants should be kept thin, and the fruiting shoots stopped a leaf beyond the fruit. Vegetables Asparagus. — ^The last cutting of the season should be made not later than the middle of June. Henceforth the plants should be allowed to grow unchecked, an4 267 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June a full bed in autumn will be all in favour of a satis- i6 30 factory crop the following year. Celery Leaf Maggot. — Celery planting may continue as fast as ground becomes vacant. If the leaves should become marked by grey lines or light brown patches, they should be squeezed between the fingers, as a small maggot, hatching from an egg deposited between the upper and lower skin of the leaf by a fly, is feeding on the chlorophyll. In order to check further deposits, the plants should be sprayed with the soft-soap and paraffin - oil mixture recommended in case of Onion maggot in the first section of the present chapter. Endive and Lettuce. — The Green Curled Endive may be sown for^ use in autumn. Sow thinly in drills, and cover with half an inch of soil. More Lettuces may be sown, and plants that are getting thick in the drills from earlier sowings thinned. Tu7'nips. — It is difficult to get nice, crisp Turnips in summer, because the plants are either riddled by the attack of a small black beetle, or run to seed. Some growers consider that moistening the seed in turpentine before sowing helps to keep the beetle at bay. I have not found the plan entirely efficacious myself, but it involves very little trouble or expense, and may be tried. The soil should be rolled after sowing, and the young plants dusted with soot in the early morning, while wet with dew. So far as running to seed is concerned, some varieties are not so much addicted to it as others. Red Globe and Green Round should be used for sowing in hot weather. Vegetable Marrows. — There is still time to plant Vegetable Marrows. Plants which were put in previously, and are now growing freely, should have a little attention 268 ROSE TIME if the shoots are becoming entangled, being trained June quite clear of each other. 16-30 The Garden in June — A Resume June The rapid development of plants in spring, and R6sum6 particularly the opening of the Rose season, affords great pleasure to the garden lover. Work increases but it is agreeable work. The lawn should have special attention in rolling, mowing, and trimming edges. Daisies, Dandelions, Plantains, and other weeds should be got rid of. A large number of biennials and perennials can be sown in June for flowering the following year. Several important plants are dealt with in June. Thus, Dahlias may be planted out. Chrysanthemums given their final potting, Roses disbudded, and Mal- maison Carnation propagated. Spring-flowering shrubs may be pruned. Fuchsias may be repotted and stopped. Fibrous-rooted Begonias for the garden may be planted. Vineries will need early and thorough ventilation and a great deal of water. Late crops will need thinning. Peaches and Nectarines should be thinned also. American Blight on fruit trees should be destroyed promptly. Straw should be spread between rows of Strawberries, and the fruit netted. Apples and Pears may be thinned if the crop is very thick. The first stage of summer pruning may be entered upon. Wall fruit trees should be watered in dry weather. Melons should be pruned. In the kitchen garden more Kidney Beans may be sown, and early Celery and winter Greens planted. Rosette Colewort and a late crop of Peas may be sown. Leeks may be planted. All ground should be hoed 269 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK June regularly. Cucumbers in frames should be watered, and the shoots pegged down. The Carrot, Celery, and Onion maggots should be kept down. The cutting of Asparagus should cease for the season. Endives, Let- tuces, and Turnips may be sown. Vegetable Marrows may be planted. Resum6 270 CHAPTER VII THE HEART OF THE YEAR The garden lover who is occupied away from home, July possibly in a town office, for the greater part of every week day, enjoys his garden to the full in July. The town streets are suffocatingly hot in the dog days. The dust nuisance is at its worst. The odour from the motors has a peculiarly offensive and penetrating quality. The gardenless townsman sighs for the green, sweet countryside, or for the cool breezes of the sea-coast, when the shade thermometer stands at 85°, and the breeze seems strong enough to carry to his nostrils only the smell from exploded petrol charges. He pants, he stews, he groans at the too lagging approach of his holidays. Things are not so bad with the suburbanist, who has a cheerful and umbrageous garden. The thought of it braces and heartens him. He buckles to his affairs with greater zest from thinking of the cool and shady corner which he has made at " Sunnyside " or " Roselea," and the office hours pass the quicker. He steps out briskly when he turns homeward, and thinks of the fragrant, blossomy hours which he will pass with his wife and bairns in the garden before bedtime comes. Alike with flowers, fruit, and vegetables, we are in the heart of the garden year. The garden is at its fullest and fairest. Roses are a blaze of beauty. Carmine Pillar is in the " lustihood of its young powers," Crimson 271 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July Rambler is opening, Dorothy Perkins is laden with pink trusses, not yet expanded. Sweet Peas have clothed their sticks from top to bottom, and are gay with bloom. Carnations are spindling up rapidly, and fat buds are already visible. The Strawberry bed is a place of attraction, and yet of bitter sorrow, for the blackbirds, which gaze hungrily at rich red clusters that an entangling abomination of black threads in the form of a fish net prevents them from getting access to. Gooseberries and Currants are yielding delicious material for tarts and stews. Early Apples are already more than half-grown. Cherries are taking on colour. The kitchen garden is providing new Potatoes, and in spite of their comparative starchlessness they some- how have a flavour which the best of old ones cannot equal. The first dish of Green Peas has been picked, eaten, and pronounced to be positively the greatest vegetable treat in all history. Longpod Beans are only awaiting a little gap in the Pea supply to prove that they, too, have a wondrous flavour of their own. These are the joys of the July garden, and the reward for much hard and possibly tedious work in the winter and early spring. There are troubles, of course, and disappointments ; these things come in everything, and why should gardening be expected to be free from them ? Some plants have failed of which much was expected. Perhaps an unfortunate forgetfulness in respect to watering has led to disaster with a frame of Cucumbers, an oversight in connection with ventila- tion has ruined a batch of young seedling Stocks, a late frost has spoiled some of the fruit blossom, the newly planted Crimson Rambler Rose looks feeble and appears to be infested with mildew. These and other 272 THE HEART OF THE YEAR trials are disappointing, but there is generally a useful July lesson to be learned from them, and in any case they must not be allowed to assume undue proportions. Very likely there is a set-off to them in the success of some particular crop which was not expected to do so well. The young bed of Strawberries, for instance, may be carrying a much better crop than was antici- pated, and the unknown pillar Rose which we planted experimentally may be a gem. There should be deep joy in the July garden, and the owner must squeeze every drop of pleasure and interest out of it. He should live every second of the golden days. One garden hour ought to be worth a dozen that are spent in town streets. The amateur should be in his garden soon after daybreak, and should not leave it at night until darkness has fallen, if then. If the weather is somewhat trying owing to the heat, he can make a point of performing the harder tasks, such as mowing, in the evening, when the sun is near the horizon. For the rest, a loose, soft collar, a light jacket, and a sun-hat will make all the difference between comfort and discomfort. Let him keep a tight grip on his gardening duties, relaxing not one jot of the ground made already. The garden is full and gay, and it must be kept so. The means are simple — watering, mulching, hoeing, removal of decaying flowers. The labour of watering may be reduced considerably by the use of a hose, also by mulching — that is, covering the surface of the soil with some loose, close substance, such as cocoa-nut fibre refuse or lawn mowings. Hoeing is a light, healthful, and pleasurable task. It is one that can be done with advantage in the early morning. While pursuing it, the amateur can think out plans for his business day 273 S THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July far better than he could do while lying in a comatose state in a stuffy bedroom. His faculties will be bright and clear. His mind will be stimulated. He will have fresh and fruitful ideas. Gathering Flowers and Saving Seed Flowers should be gathered regularly and continu- ously, and they should be gathered while they are still young, partly because they are fresh, partly because of the pleasure of seeing them expand in the house, partly because seeding, which strains the plant, is anticipated. It is in every way desirable to gather flowers ; it is good for the grower, because his home is brightened, and it is good for the plants. The loss of seed need not be deplored. The great majority of amateurs will do better to buy seed than to save their own. I do not believe that it is economical to save seed at home, because I think that most people can make much more profitable use of their time. Calculate the time occupied in saving, cleaning, and packing up threepenny worth of Tomato seed. It is equivalent to writing a thousand words, and your value with the publisher may be (I admit that it may not) ten guineas per thousand. If you are not a writer you may be a painter, or a musical composer, or something else that renders your time valuable. I do not suggest that all time which is devoted to gardening should be calculated on a pounds, shillings, and pence basis. I only do it in the case of seed saving, because this appears to be generally done with the idea of saving money. If not, what is the object ? To be sure of perfectly fresh seed ? To perpetuate some particular variety ? My reply to the first of these questions is that seed bought from professional seedsmen is more likely 274 THE HEART OF THE YEAR to germinate well than seed saved at home, because July it has. been harvested under the eyes of experts, and stored under conditions which have been found to be the best after long years of experience. With regard to the second question, amateur seed savers do not often save seed from the best examples, and the strain deteriorates under their hands. This is a matter of simple fact. How would an amateur proceed in the saving of seeds of Ten-week Stocks, for example ? I am against the home-saving of seed in the first place, because letting plants form pods shortens their period of beauty ; in the second, because it is not sound economy ; and in the third, because it frequently means degeneration in the following year's crop. It is per- missible in a few cases, such as those of rare plants. Gather the Sweet Peas Do not save seed, gather the flowers while young. In particular gather the Sweet Peas. Pluck some every day, and see that no seed pod forms. Sweet Peas are secretive and swift in their loves. Have you discovered their sly way of self-fertilising themselves before opening ? They mate in the buds; it is child love. And how quickly seed pods form. You are away for a few days, and on your return, lo ! the cunning flowers have already rushed into pod. Of a surety Sweet Peas need watching. I prefer to see inexperienced gatherers work with scissors than with bare fingers, because plucking often means broken stems, and even torn-up plants. There is, how- ever, a way of gathering Sweet Peas without cutting that is both neat and quick. Take the flower-stalk while young between finger and thumb at the base, and give a gentle squeeze and pull simultaneously. If this is done, 275 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July the bottom of the flower stem leaves its seat instantly, and without any disturbance of the plant. July JULY— First and Second Weeks Sowing Herbaceous Calceolarias. — The herbaceous Calceolaria is a popular greenhouse plant in spring. The pouch-like flowers are as large as pigeon's eggs, borne in scores, and most beautifully marked. Every- body admires the rich appearance of well-grown plants. Propagation is done by means of seeds, and therein comes a difficulty. Although the plant is very large the seed is very small, and requires almost as much care in handling as Begonia seed. Further, the seedlings are not so accommodating as some plants ; they really seem as though they would as lief die as not. Let the raiser pay particular attention to the hints given in Chapter I. when raising Calceolarias. When the plants have fairly got moving, they are as easy to manage as anything else. Having no tubers to form, they move quickly. They are all right in a frame until September, when they should go on to a greenhouse shelf. Potting Primulas. — Young fringed Primulas for winter flowering that were pricked off from a seed pan a month ago will now be ready for small pots. They will be quite safe in a frame for the next ten weeks, and should have abundance of air, together with water as needed. Loam, leaf mould, and sand suit them. They should be potted firmly, and fairly low, otherwise the collar may become bare after a few weeks' watering, and the plants rock about. Biennials and Perennials.— Complete the sowings of the various kinds which have been selected from the list in the previous chapter. 276 THE HEART OF THE YEAR Border Carnations. — The flower stems are now rising rapidly, and there must be no neglect in providing supports. Remember the advan- tages of coil wire stakes, as advised in a previous chapter. If fine blooms are wanted, most of the side buds of the various clusters should be removed in order to throw strength into the central ones. Three may be left on each stem. Care of Ferns. — It saves some trouble in watering if a shade- wash is put on the glass of green- houses for the summer, and shading of this kind, or in the form of roller blinds, is particularly necessary in Fig. 48.— Coil Stake for the case of Ferns, which might carnations. -^. a. The coil stake. otherwise be scorched up. The pots b. Main stem and flower should stand on cool, moisture- holding material, such as fine shingle, and this should be kept moist. Constant attention should be given to watering, or the plants will collapse. Maggots in Marguerite Leaves. — The foliage of Marguerites is sometimes discoloured by zigzag lines, and may become covered with brown blotches. The appearance is due to the attack of a leaf-mining grub similar to that which affects Celery (see preceding chapter), and may be dealt with in the same way. Window Boxes. — It stimulates window plants if they are looked over occasionally, decaying leaves and fading flowers picked off, the soil stirred up with a trowel, and an application of fertiliser sprinkled over the soil two or three times a week just before watering. There is still 277 July 1-15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July time to decorate window boxes for the summer by I~i5 getting pot plants of Marguerites, Zonal Geraniums, Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Tropoeolums, and other suitable plants. Pelargoniums after Flowering. — The large flowered green-leaved Pelargoniums are the better for a complete rest after flowering. They may be placed in a group out of doors, and given no water until the foliage withers, then pruned back to short stumps, watered, syringed, and put under glass. They will soon break into fresh growth, and make splendid plants for another year. Dressing Violas. — It was advised to plant Violas early, in order to get them into vigorous growth before the spring was far advanced. If this course was adopted, the plants will have put in several weeks' hard flowering by the time July opens. They will be very little the worse for this, provided that the flowers have been regularly picked, and water and liquid manure given in dry spells. If these steps have not been taken, the plants may be somewhat dingy now, and it will refresh them to crop them over, removing the old growths as well as the flowers, and spread some fresh soil and manure among them. They will soon be in growth again after this treatment, and will flower nearly as well as ever. Mildew on Roses. — Roses ought to be at their best in July, and it is distressing to see the plants get coated with mildew. This is liable to happen when the plants are growing in poor, thin soil, and are suffering from drought. Soakings of liquid manure, or even plain water, will do good. But plants growing in really fertile, moist soil sometimes become affected, and it is well to resort to dry flowers of sulphur directly the grey powder begins to spread. The sulphur is best applied through 278 THE HEART OF THE YEAR a pair of Malbec bellows, which distributes it evenly and July economically. ^~" Fruit Thinning Apples. — Apples ought to be swelling up their fruit steadily now, and finer examples will develop if, where the fruits hang thickly, they are reduced to two per spur than where they are allowed to remain crowded. Sawfly Caterpillar on Gooseberries. — If a Gooseberry grower finds that the foliage is being eaten after the fruit has been gathered, he should search for a small green, black-headed caterpillar, and if he finds it, he may safely credit it with the mischief. If the caterpillars are not present in considerable numbers perhaps spray- ing on the paraffin and soft-soap wash recommended under Onions in Chapter VI. will suffice ; if not, helle- bore powder should be resorted to. This is certain to prove a remedy if it is dusted on. If it is ever used on Gooseberries that are bearing fruit, the bushes should be vigorously syringed two or three days afterwards, as the powder is poisonous. American Gooseberry Mildezv. — Gooseberry leaves are sometimes affected by white patches, which afterwards become brown and felt-like. The fruit is also attacked. The young wood may be marked with brown. These signs point to an attack of American Gooseberry mildew, which has spread a great deal during recent years, and become epidemic. In bad cases the bushes ought to be burned. In slight attacks the young shoots which are affected may be cut off and burned, and the bushes sprayed with sulphide of potassium — one ounce in three gallons of water. 279 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July Apple Scab. — The fungoid disease known as scab, 1-15 which causes dark patches to form on the leaves, and also patches, followed by cracking, on the fruit, tends to spread year by year. It may be reduced considerably by picking off any badly affected leaves and fruit, and spraying with Bordeaux mixture (see Chapter I.). Aphis on Cherries. — A black aphis often attacks the foliage of Cherries, establishing itself on the young shoots, and injuring the tree by sucking out the sap. The paraffin and soft-soap spray is a sure remedy for this. Silver Leaf of Fruit Trees. — During recent years a disease known as " silver leaf," owing to the grey, shiny appearance which the foliage assumes when the trees are attacked, has spread a good deal, principally among the stone fruits, such as Peaches and Plums. It is irregular in its action, sometimes spreading rapidly over a whole tree, at others merely attacking one shoot, and then making no more progress. A fruit grower who sees this enemy appear had better hold no parley with it, but cut out the affected parts at once and burn them. Grapes. — See that inside borders do not remain dry for any length of time. Continue to close houses in the afternoon, to afterwards damp down, and to ventilate early in the morning. Vines planted this spring may be stopped half-way up the roof. Those planted a year previously may carry two or three bunches of fruit this season. Strawberries. — It is best to gather Strawberries early in the morning. The beds ought to be in full bearing now. Fill some small pots with loam, sink them in the ground round plants that are bearing runners, and fix the plantlets on to the soil in the pots by means of stones. They will root speedily. 280 THE HEART OF THE YEAR Vegetables Cauliflowers. — Plants raised in April, and trans- planted from the seed bed, ought now to be sturdy, and have abundance of fibrous roots. If there is a piece of ground free, they may be planted at once, thirty inches apart all ways. The soil ought to be deep, rich, and friable. It is well to take advantage of showery weather for planting, but the plants will grow in dry weather if they are watered in. Celery. — The planting of the main crop should be completed as early as ground can be found for making the trenches. Proceed as previously advised. If some plants were put in a month ago, they will have made good growth by now probably. Water and liquid manure will help them along. Use the paraffin-oil and soft-soap spray to check the leaf maggot. Mushrooms. — Manure may now be procured with a view to making up beds for autumn. Remember that the manure should be well shaken up to drive off gases, and that ridge-shaped beds thirty inches wide at the base and the same high are suitable. Mildew in Onions. — A bed of Onions, to all appear- ances perfectly healthy, is sometimes discoloured, and the growth stopped, in a few hours by an attack of mil- dew. The plants hang limp and lifeless. The foliage is covered with grey powder. This is a serious enemy, and a grower who notices the faintest discolouration of the leaves of his Onions should get some lump lime from a builder, slake it with a httle water so as to reduce it to powder, and then dust it on. Clearing-off Early Peas. — It is useless to leave early Peas on the ground after the crop has been gathered — in 281 July I-15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July fact, worse than useless, because the plants are liable to I~I5 become affected by mildew, and to contaminate succes- sional rows. The haulm should be cut off close to the surface of the soil and carried to the rubbish heap. The roots may be left, as they will help to fertilise the soil. The ground may be planted with Celery, Leeks, Cauli- flowers, or winter Greens. Early Potatoes. — Early varieties of Potatoes will now, or soon, be ready for use. When the foliage begins to turn yellow the tubers are ready. Needless to say many growers, in their eagerness for an early dish of "new Potatoes," lift while the tops are still green, and a lively imagination may enable the amateur to declare that the flavour is delicious. The ground cleared of Potatoes may be utilised in the same way as that from which Peas have been removed, or sown with Turnips. Attention for Tomatoes. — Outdoor plants will now be growing strongly, and have set fruit on the lower trusses probably. Four or five bunches will be enough for each plant to carry. When the plant has reached the top of its stake, or, in the case of plants growing against a wall or fence, four feet high, the tip may be pinched off. All side shoots should be nipped off as fast as they form. If the soil is shallow and poor, liquid manure may be used when the fruit is half-swollen up, but it is not likely to be needed in deep, fertile ground. 282 Fig. 49.— Pruning Tomatoes. a Side shoots to be cut off as denoted by the dark lines. /'. The point of the main stem which must also be cut off. THE HEART OF THE YEAR Planting Winter Greens. — Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, July Borecole, and Savoys may be planted out at the first ^"15 spell of showery weather. If ground is scarce, some may be planted two and a half feet apart between Potato rows, but the early small-topped Potatoes should be chosen for such intercropping. If it is absolutely necessary to put Greens between late, strong-growing Potatoes like Up-to-date, Table Talk, Factor, and Sensa- tion, plant them between alternate rows only, and draw the Potato tops away from them towards the spaces between the rows that are not intercropped. JULY— Third and Fourth Weeks July 16-31 Flowers Several important operations often come on during the second week of July, notably budding Roses, layer- ing Carnations, and manipulating Chrysanthemum buds. In each of these cases the exact period is decided by the weather. Buddiftg Roses. — Large growers of Roses get the greater part of their Rose budding done between the middle of July and the middle of August. Should there be a good deal of showery weather in June and the early part of July, they begin earlier. As a matter of fact, the budding of Roses may be done as readily and as success- fully in June as in August if there is a supply of suitable wood for making buds, and the sap is flowing freely enough in the stocks for the pith to come out freely. Let me explain what I mean by "suitable wood." The part of a Rose which is taken when propagation by means of budding is practised is a slice about two inches long cut from a firm shoot of the current year's growth 283 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July underneath a leaf. It seems remarkable that such a slip 16-31 of wood will give a strong, healthy shoot, but it certainly will if it is handled properly. One piece of growth will give several such slips. If the base of the leaf-stalk be examined when the slip has been cut out it will be seen that there is a small green knot there. This knot goes through the bark, and its base is lodged in the pith or woody matter of the slip. The delicacy of the opera- tion of budding is to remove the pith without tearing the knot out with it. Let the amateur practise on a few slips. So long as he finds that there is nothing but a small cavity left under the leaf-stalk when he has pulled out the pith he is under the ob- ligation of confessing failure and trying again. But when he is able to point to a green, pin- head-like knot firmly seated in the bark under the leaf-stalk after the pith has gone, he can claim suc- cess. After having got so far, he might still fail if he let the bud get dry before putting it in ; it is very important that it should be kept moist. The pith parts the most readily from the bark after rain. If a budder wanted to get his budding done at a particular time and the weather 284 Fig. so.— Budding Dwarf Roses. a. The bud. b. Pith which must be carefully removed. c. The top cut off at the dark line. d. How to open the bark of the stock. e. The bud inserted and tied in. THE HEART OF THE YEAR was dry, he would do well to give the plants from which he intended to take buds a good soaking of water. As regards stocks for working the buds on to, they must consist of standard Briers dug out of the hedge- rows in autumn, or dwarf Briers two or three years old, raised from seed or cuttings. In the first case the buds should be inserted in the side shoots which break from the upper part of the standards in late spring, and which may be two feet long by midsummer. The cuts to receive the buds should be made near the base of the shoots, and should consist of one cross and one longi- tudinal cut, the latter being about two inches long, and coming up to the centre of the former. The edges of the bark can be raised to receive the bud with the flat polished handle of the bud- ding knife. When the bud has been slipped down, it can be tied in with worsted or raphia. It should be made firm, but not bound very tightly. In the case of dwarf stocks, one bud can be put in the main stem just beneath the soil. The necessaries for budding Roses may be sum- marised as follows : (i) a supply of stocks, either raised by propagating or transplanted from the hedgerows ; (2) a supply of shoots of the current year's growth to yield buds ; (3) a flat-handled, pohshed budding knife ; 285 July 16-31 Fig. si. -Budding Standard Roses. Where to insert the buds. The bud secured by strands of soft material, c. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July (4) some tying material. The order of the operations ^^31 may be summarised thus : (i) remove some strong, clean shoots of the current year's growth after showery weather between mid-July and mid-August ; (2) remove the leaves, but allow half an inch of each stalk to remain, as it will form a handle ; (3) take out a slice about two inches long, and about a sixteenth of an inch deep, beneath the leaf-stalk, with a sharp knife ; (4) holding the slice by the leaf-stalk, pull out the pith without tearing away the little green knot in the centre ; (5) in- stantly slip the bud down between the raised edges of a longitudinal cut in the stock ; (6) tie it in. If the buds are inserted in June, they often make a great deal of growth the same year, and the plants may even bloom the same summer ; but if put in later they do not grow until the following spring, and this is quite as well. Amateurs who fail with their first year's buds (and it is common to have a good many failures in early at- tempts at budding, for after all the operation is a some- what delicate one) should pay particular attention to three points the following year : (i) that there is free growth both in Rose and stock when the work is started ; (2) that the green knot is left in the bud when the pith is pulled out; (3) that the bud is kept fresh. If these matters are right, success will come. In the large Rose nurseries, labouring men with rough horny hands do the budding, and make few mistakes. They cultivate long finger-nails during budding time, on the ground that they can get hold of the pith better than they can when their nails are pared close ! Perhaps the amateur may try this also. Propagating Carnatiotts and Pinks. — Whether the Carnation grower cultivates his plants under names or not (if he is an enthusiast he generally keeps his varieties 286 THE HEART OF THE YEAR labelled), there are always a few sorts which he desires July to have more of. They establish themselves as favourites 10-31 because of their vigorous growth, or because they have fine flowers, or because they are very sweet. If the amateur is fortunate enough to get varieties which combine all these merits, let him take care to get a good many plants of each, for they are real floral treasures. There is no finer and more desirable plant than a really good Carnation, and in these days of much fungoid disease, strength of constitution is of special importance. The time to propagate Carnations is from mid-July to mid-August, and the method is to layer the tufty outer growths. (If you would pass as one of the elect among Carnation specialists, you must take care always to allude to these growths as " the Grass.") Plants which have languished through the winter as a result of the attacks of "mould" or "rust," or which have been checked in spring by wireworm, sometimes exhibit but a very poor and weakly growth of "Grass" by mid-July ; in this case it is prudent to defer the layering and endeavour to strengthen the plants by giving them a few soakings of liquid manure, and top-dressings of rich, loamy soil. There may be several growths on each plant, and all may be layered separately. Place a small mound of soil under each as a preliminary, then remove a few of the leaves from the stem about one-third of the length of the stem (calculating from the parent plant), and make a slit along the stem about an inch long, pre- ferably through a joint. Do not cut a slice right out, as in budding Roses, merely pass the knife half-way through the stem, and then turn the edge of the blade so as to cut longitudinally for an inch. This forms what gardeners would term a "tongue," and the word is not inapt. Keep the tongue raised by slipping in a 287 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July small pebble, then press it into the mound and fasten ^"~3I it with a forked twig or wire pin. If the mounds of soil contain a goodly proportion of leaf soil and sand, there ought to be a nice little cluster of fibrous roots around the tongue within the month, but the grower need not become impatient if a longer time is required, as it will suffice if they are well rooted by October. As soon as it is found that there is a mat of fibres round the tongue, the shoot may be severed and the young plant (for such the layer will be then) potted up or planted in the border. The growth of Pinks is more upright than that of Carnations, and consequently does not lend itself to layering so readily. This being so, it is best to propa- gate by pulling some young shoots about three inches long out of their sockets and inserting them in sandy soil. Propagating the Double Arabis. — No flower gardener who has once proved the value of the double white Rock Cress is ever likely to feel satisfied that he has enough of it, and he may be glad of a hint for increasing his stock. If he will look over his plants now, he will probably find that they are covered with young shoots which have grown since the spring — with a cluster of leaves at the top, and several inches of stem below. All these shoots will make plants if they are taken off about four inches long, the lower half divested of leaves, and inserted firmly in a bed of moist, sandy soil in a place where they can be shaded during hot sunshine. They will make sturdy little plants by autumn, when they can be planted in borders, rockeries, bulb beds, and other desired places. The ^^Crozvn " Buds of Prize Chrysanthemums. — By reference to that popular plant the Chrysanthemum at appropriate seasons, we have carried it to a very 288 O u t/5 o THE HEART OF THE YEAR interesting stage — the stage when it may be expected to make its second break and commence producing its crown buds. Let us recapitulate the stages : First there was that of inserting the cuttings. Then there was the repotting. Then there was the "first break." Then there was the final potting and the standing out of doors for the summer. We have seen that the prize bloom plant produces a flower bud in April or May, and breaks into three shoots. That is the " first break." The bud is picked off, the shoots are kept. Pre- sently each of them produces a fiower bud, and breaks into three shoots the same as the original stem did. This is the " second break.'' The flower buds so produced are "crown " buds. This second break may come at the right time for the grower or it may not. If he asks how he shall know whether the time is right or not, the only possible answer (for it is impossible to give a general reply) is, that the peculiarities of the different sorts which are being grown must be ascertained. In a collection of fifty varieties there might be a dozen variations. These constitute alike the difficulty and the interest of growing prize Chrysanthemums. One cannot lump all the sorts together for a common course of 289 T July 16-31 Fig. 52.— Taking Crown Buds off Chrysanthemums. a. The crown bud. b. Side shoots to be removed. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July treatment. Each has its individuaHty. The importance 10-31 of the bud question lies in the fact that unless it is properly handled the blooms of different varieties will be at their best at different periods, and the exhibition grower likes to have them simultaneously. One way of ascertaining the necessary treatment of the buds of the respective varieties is to ask the florist who supplies them in the first place to give details. Every new variety which is procured ought to be entered in a book, and its particular requirements marked. If this practice is adopted, there is rarely any difficulty. True, a little hitch may occur in the case of one variety or another, for no system can be devised that is absolutely, auto- matically perfect when weather influences come in, but an odd error is rarely disastrous. So much by way of explanation ; now, reverting to the second break, let me say that it may come any time between the middle of July and the end of August. It is likely to suit the grower best if it comes about the middle of August. Supposing, however, that it comes in July, as is some- times the case. The break is too early, and the plant should be artificially controlled so as to bring about another. The flower bud, which in this case will be called the " first crown," should be removed from each shoot, and the three growing buds below examined, the weakest two being discarded. This of course leaves the plant with three branches as before, only each has, so to say, a fresh growing tip. The shoots will grow on, and in the course of about three weeks will break again. This time the flower buds (now called " second crowns ") will be retained, and the shoots which spring below them removed. Roughly, it takes eleven weeks to develop a prize Chrysanthemum bloom, thus a bud which forms at mid-August ought to be a fully developed 290 THE HEART OF THE YEAR flower the first week in November. It is perhaps scarcely July necessary to say that this process of stopping and bud ^^31 selection is not developed to anything like the same extent in the case of plants which are grown as bushes, to produce abundance of small flowers instead of two or three large ones. True, the young plants may be pinched once or twice in spring to make them compact, but there need be no elaborate manipulation ; " breaks " and "crowns" can both be ignored. Instead of the mid- season shoots being pinched out, they should be allowed to extend, and in due course they will produce flowers. The blossoms will be small, and of no use for forming prize stands, but there will be a great many of them, and they will be charming for vases in the house. Lifting and dividing Daffodils. — Narcissi and Daffodils will have completed their growth by now, and may be taken up for division. There will be large bulbs and small in the clumps — bulbs large enough to give good flowers next year, and bulbs which will not bloom until the second year. The sizes can be separated, as it is convenient to know, when planting, what bulbs can be relied upon to bloom. It is difficult to advise as to the exact sizes, because the varieties differ a great deal in size of bulb, and what would be a large bulb for Poeticus would be a small one for Sir Watkin. It will be safe to assume that all bulbs equal to two-thirds the size of the largest flowering bulb will bloom the following year. Bulb dealers necessarily dry and store their bulbs, but amateurs need not do so, they may replant at once, and the deeper, the moister the soil the more likely the plants are to do well. Strong bulbs may be forced in pots or boxes. Improving Annuals. — The earlier kinds of annuals will have been flowering for some time now, and a critical 291 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July 16-31 time has arrived. The plants are a Httle the worse for wear, and moreover are going to seed. When once they start going downhill they move fast, and an effort should be made to stop the down-grade movement at the very outset. Preventing seeding by the prompt removal of all fading flowers, stirring the soil with a hoe, watering, and occasional doses of hquid manure will all help to keep the plants fresh. Repotting Cinerarias, — Plants raised in spring, and subsequently placed in small pots, will be ready for larger ones as soon as roots protrude at the drainage hole, and 5-inch may be chosen. Drain with crocks and moss, use a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, ) pot firmly, keep them close and shaded for a few days, then put them in a cold frame and give abundance of air. See that the green fly does not establish itself on the young plants, or it will soon do great harm. It is to be hoped that the Star Cinerarias are being grown. They are lovely for winter blooming. a Drainage and compost. y^j^^^ Roman Hvacinths.— 0. How the bulbs are inserted, _ -^ leaving the crowns just above These charmiug bulbs are generally procurable at the end of July, and may be bought and potted, or grown in vases of fibre. Wallfiowers should be taken from the seed beds and planted out, or they will spoil each other by over- crowding. 292 Fig. S3.— Potting Roman Hyacinths. Early white Roman Hyacinths grown in an ornamen- containinc i'eat moss fibre; no soil is i'seu. THE HEART OF THE YEAR Fruit Propagating Strawberries. — The propagation of Straw- berries by means of runners should be continued in accordance with pre- vious advice. The runners maybe rooted in small pots plunged in the soil round the plants, or in small squares of turf. Water should be given in dry weather. Summer Pruning. — Where the breastwood of trained trees, whether of Apples, Pears, Plums, or Cherries, was pinched early in June, it will probably have pushed subsidiary shoots by the end of July, and these may be stopped at the first leaf. Those who prefer to perform their summer pruning in one opera- tion will probably not take action until the end of July or the early part of August, when they will stop the side shoots at the sixth leaf from the base. Summer- Pruning Gooseberries and Red Currants. — What applies to the larger fruits applies also to Goose- berries and Red and White (not Black) Currants. When the breastwood gets thick it is an advantage to open up the bushes by pinching off the ends of the side shoots at 293 July 16-31 Fig. 54.— Propagating Strawberries. a. Old plant. b. The runner, to be layered and pegged down in the small pot, c. d. The stem, to be severed beyond the first plant on the runner. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July the sixth leaf. The summer pruning helps the basal ^31 buds to become plump and mature, consequently in good condition for yielding fruit the following year. Birds and Ripening Fruit. — The bird plague will now be at its worst, and must be checked by protecting the crops with fish netting. In the case of wall trees the nets should be held a foot away from the wall with sticks, or blackbirds will throw themselves against it, press it to the wall, and eat the fruit through the mesh. Grapes. — If the thinning practised some weeks earlier proves to be insufficient, berries that are over- crowding each other may be thinned out now. The bunches should be firm, but not packed tightly. Melons in Frames. — Place a flower pot under each ripening fruit, in order to keep it off the surface of the bed. Vegetables Late Celery and Leeks, — These may be planted in trenches. If the weather is dry, water and shade until the plants start growing afresh. Disease in Potatoes. — If wet, muggy weather should prevail in July, brown patches are likely to show on the leaves of the Potatoes, principally on the under side. If they spread, an offensive smell will be given off. Inasmuch as spraying with Bordeaux mixture (see Chapter I.) actually encourages the growth of Potatoes, apart from its action in destroying the spores of fungi, growers should never hesitate to practise it. The mixture should be put on with a spraying nozzle, either fitted to a syringe for hand use or to a knapsack pump, as then it falls like dew and adheres. When applied 294 THE HEART OF THE YEAR through the rose of a water-can, it runs off again. Care should be taken to get the under side of the leaves coated. One applica- tion will suffice if the spell of wet weather is brief, but a second should be made if the weather con- tinues muggy. Potato Disease on To inatoes. — The Potato disease some- times spreads to the allied plant — the Tomato. In this case the way is not quite so clear, as it is not desirable to spray Tomatoes when they are nearly ripe. While the fruit is quite small there is no harm, but at later stages an effort should be made to check the disease by pinching off the affected leaves and dusting the others with lime. Planting Winter Greens. — The planting of Borecole, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, and Savoys should be com- pleted. Caterpillars on Greens. — Large white butterflies may be seen fluttering about green vegetables in summer, and as many of them as possible should be netted and killed to prevent their laying eggs, or there will be a bad attack of caterpillars. Every caterpillar that 295 July 16-31 Fig, ss. — Potato Disease (Phytophthora). a. Diseased portions of tuber. b. Diseased leaves. c. Sound leaves. d. Cuticle with a cluster of conidiophores. e. Stomata. f. Spores. g. A conidium germinating. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July is noticed on the plants should be picked off and 1^31 destroyed. Sowing Cabbages for Spring. — Those folk — and they are numerous — who like to have a good bed of Cabbages in spring may sow a little seed towards the end of July. The soil should be well pulverised and moist. The drills may be drawn a foot apart and half an inch deep. Flower of Spring and EUam's Early are almost equally good. Sowing Onions for Spring and Early Summer. — It is common to make a sowing of Onions about this time, to yield young plants for spring salads, and to supply plants for forming early bulbs. In former days Flat Italian Tripoli and Giant Red Rocca were used for this purpose, but nowadays the Lemon (Golden) Rocca is preferred. Ai and Ailsa Craig may also be sown now. July The Garden in July— A Resume R&um6 In July the garden should be in full beauty and pro- ductiveness, and the aim of the gardener must be to keep a tight grip on the ground that he has made, and see that every advantage gained is followed up keenly. Growing crops should be kept in vigorous and healthy motion by regular hoeing of the soil, by mulching, by watering, and by preventing seed ripening. The home-saving of seed is not economical as a rule, and plants go out of flower the quicker when seed pods are allowed to form. A good example of this is found in the Sweet Pea. If flowers of this beautiful annual are gathered regularly, and seed production is prevented, the plants remain fresh, and yield abundance of flowers, over a much longer period than when they are allowed to run to seed. 296 R^sum6 THE HEART OF THE YEAR Herbaceous Calceolarias may be sown for flowering July in the following spring, and Cinerarias, Cyclamens, and Primulas placed in small pots, or repotted in larger ones. Seed of biennials and perennials, lists of which were given in the previous chapter, may be sown. Violas which have been flowering incessantly for several weeks should be clipped over, and given a top- dressing of fresh soil and manure. Roses may be budded after the first spell of showery weather in July or August. Carnations may be layered towards the end of July if the side shoots ("grass") are strong and healthy. The flower stems of Carnations should be staked, and the buds may be thinned if a limited number of flowers are wanted. Some of the Chrysanthemums which are being grown to produce prize blooms may show their first crown buds towards the end of July. If so the buds should be picked out, as they are too early, and the growths which start below them thinned to one on each shoot. Ferns must have shade during hot sunshine, and care must be taken to prevent their suffering from drought. Marguerites are sometimes attacked by a leaf-mining grub, and if the foliage becomes affected the plants had better be looked over, the leaves pinched, and a paraffin and soft-soap wash applied. Mildew may appear on various plants, notably Roses, and at the first appearance of it flowers of sulphur should be dusted on. Daffodils may be lifted, and the different sizes of bulbs replanted. 297 Resume THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK July The principal operations in the fruit garden will be preserving ripening fruit from birds, and summer pruning. A supply of fish netting is almost essential where Strawberries, bushes, and wall fruit are grown. Strawberry runners may be layered. In the vegetable garden early Peas and Potatoes are maturing. Peas should not be left on the ground after all the young pods have been gathered. Potatoes are ready for lifting when the foliage becomes yellow. If any signs of Potato disease should appear, the plants ought to be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture before the blight has time to spread. Winter Greens and Cauliflowers may be planted. If large white butterflies are seen fluttering about the plants, they should be caught with nets if possible, in order to prevent their laying eggs. The caterpillars which hatch from the eggs are injurious to the plants, as they feed on the foliage. Cabbages may be sown for spring. Tomatoes should be pruned, and given liquid manure when swelling their crop if growing in poor soil. Celery and Leeks may be planted in prepared ground. Early Celery can be partially earthed. If mildew should attack the Onion crop, it ought to be checked at once by dusting with lime. Mushroom beds may be prepared for cropping in autumn. 298 CHAPTER VIII THE HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN I HAVE said that the genuine enthusiast in gardening Aug. recognises no beginning and no ending to a horticultural year. He does not go into "winter quarters" in October, and resume operations in April. The seasons impose no limits. It is true that some outdoor tasks have to be suspended at times owing to unsuitable weather, but others have accumulated indoors, and the opportunity is taken to make up arrears. Thus it is that gardening years slide so swiftly, although so pleasantly, by. The harvest month is also the principal holiday month, and it is probable that it supplies the most severe test of the thoroughness of the amateur's de- votion. Many will be proof against its seductions, some may succumb. Mr. A. C. Benson remarks in one of his pleasant essays that if a crowd gathers in a field there will be an irresistible inclination on the part of many who see it to join it, and of a few to fly to the other end of the world. The marine parade, the pierrots, the jetty band draw the ungardened many with overwhelming force in August ; but the true garden lover will avoid their dust and clangour with a shudder. It has to be confessed that some gardens get a little tarnished in August. They are "the worse for wear." The owner may not be conscious of any weakness ; he may not be able to put his finger on anything that is 299 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK radically defective, but an experienced eye can see that all is not quite as it should be. The garden has not really lost its youth, but it has arrived at a stage when old age has become a possibility — hair just a little thin, complexion a wee bit wanting in freshness, foot- steps tending to drag instead of striking out briskly. Nothing develops quicker than slackness of this kind. The garden decollete \^ too soon the garden /^^j/. It may be suggested that such a condition is natural, and therefore to be expected. Plants, it will be said, have a defined period of youth, the same as animals, and if the components of a garden sink, by however slow degrees, towards the "sere and yellow," the garden collectively must show the effects of it. But this is not so convincing as it appears at first. Properly managed gardens are made up of materials which mature at different seasons. We have flowers that give their best beauty in spring, others in summer, and others again in autumn. We have early Apples and late ones. We have Potatoes that are mature in July, and others that do not ripen until October. This being so, it cannot be admitted that a garden must necessarily decline in August. Something will depend on circumstances. A garden on a hot, sandy, or chalky slope in a dry district may fade in August if the rainfall is very scanty ; it will certainly do so unless resolute efforts are made to keep it fresh. But a garden on good soil in moist localities ought to be better in August than in any previous month. There will be abundance of Roses, and they alone are a great force. Sweet Peas will be in full glory — stronger, taller, more floriferous than in July. Gladioli will be coming into beauty, and they have a wonderfully revivifying effect on a garden. Hollyhocks and Pentstemons will be at their best. The advance 300 HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN guard of the two great autumn flowers, Dahlia and Aug. Chrysanthemum, will be in bloom. Flower beds will have filled out, and tuberous Begonias will have come nicely into bloom. The rock garden will not be as gay as it was in spring and early summer, as the majority of the plants will have flowered, but Portulacas, Campanulas, An- drosaces, Alpine Pinks, Armeria, Lithospermum, Onosma, Iceland Poppies, Primulas, Saxifrages, and Sedums will be giving flowers. Herbaceous borders should be at their best. If Paeonies are over, and Delphiniums fading. Phloxes, Hollyhocks, Japanese Anemones, early Michaelmas Daisies, Chrysanthemums, Poppies, Monkshood, Al- stromerias. Ox-eye Daisies, Snapdragons, Pentstemons, Gladioli, Sea Hollies, Gaillardias, Goat's Rues, hardy Geraniums, Sunflowers, Kniphofias, Bergamot, Evening Primroses, Winter Cherries (Physalis), Potentillas, Rud- beckias. Golden Rod, and Veronicas should more than fill their places. The garden of the suburbanist who makes for the seaside for a fortnight in August admittedly suffers; in fact, the annual holiday marks the turning-point of his horticultural season. Tis pity. Could not more be done than is done to counteract the effects of the owner's absence ? Could not neighbouring amateur gardeners agree to help each other in this matter, as they do in housing each other's cats? A thorough hoeing, removal of fading flowers, and watering once a week will do wonders in retrieving a falling garden. When an amateur returns from the seaside and finds that the garden has undergone a rapid process of deterioration (and nothing degenerates more rapidly than a garden), he is apt to think that it is not worth 301 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug an effort at resuscitation. His holiday is over, the summer is waning, and the world in general is at its last gasp. Kismet ! But if things have not gone very far — if his first emotion is one of surprise that things are not far worse rather than one of disgust and despair because they have gone hopelessly to the bad — the amateur will pull himself together and soon restore matters to a good basis. And this is as it should be. Do we get so much summer in our isle that we can afford to bid a dejected good-bye to it in August ? Dear me, no ! We will hang on to its skirts for several weeks yet, and only begin to realise that it may be waning when we find ourselves enveloped in a November fog. Aug. AUGUST— First and Second Weeks Flowers The two important operations of layering Carnations and budding Roses may be carried on in the manner advised in the previous chapter. Taking Chrysanthemuni Buds. — The bud system of Chrysanthemums which are grown for the production of large blooms was explained in Chapter VII. It was stated there that if buds show in July they should be removed, and the best of the basal shoots selected for growing on, the others being picked off. A good many varieties will not show crown buds until the second or third week in August, however, and these will probably come right if allowed to remain. This being so, they should be left, and all the incipient shoots just below pinched out. This is a case of the "first crown" buds being retained. Those that were deprived of their first crown bud in July will form second ones in August or 302 Freesia refracta ai ba, the sweetest of all \vl\ lek-flowering bulbs. HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN early September, and these will be retained, basal shoots being removed. Liliwns. — Lovers of hardy Liliums will now have the satisfaction of seeing most of their favourites in full bloom, although early kinds, like Candidum, will be over. Unless the plants are well sheltered, it will be prudent to support the flower stems with stakes, otherwise one stormy day might spoil the whole season's work. If the plants are growing in light soil, two or three good soak- ings of water and liquid manure, followed by a mulch of short manure, will be a help to them, and improve the flowers. Potting Freesias. — Bulbs that have been well roasted on a shelf in a sunny house, or that are purchased from a dealer, should now be potted. Half-a-dozen bulbs may be placed equidistant in a 5-inch pot, and covered with an inch of soil. The growth of Freesias is much more dehcate than that of TuHps and Hyacinths ; con- sequently it is not desirable to plunge them in ashes or fibre. The pots may be stood in an unheated frame, partly embedded in ashes, until the shoots have pushed an inch through the soil, when they may be transferred to a greenhouse. Loam with a little leaf mould and sand will form a suitable compost. Seedling Herbaceous Calceolarias. — I previously re- marked on the delicacy of these beautiful plants in 303 Aug-. 1-15 Fig. 56.— Potting Freesias. a. A Freesia bulb. b. The bulbs potted. c. The covering soiU Aug. I-I5 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK their very early stages. If they have been carefully handled, they ought to be safe by now, and to be ready for pricking off two inches apart in shallow boxes or pans. The soil should be fine and moist, but not "soppy." A shady frame will be a good place for the plants. With attention to ventilation and watering, they will not give much cause for anxiety hence- forth. Zonal Geraniums for Winter. — Zonals in pots, struck from cuttings a few weeks ago, will be sturdy plants now, possibly in a cold frame. It is Ger- anium nature to start flowering at the first op- portunity, and all healthy young plants may be expected to produce buds as naturally as a cockerel tries to crow. The early bloom should be suppressed in the in- terests of future excel- lence. If there are any >. ^ ^ , , very weak thin shoots Fig. 57.— Staking Gladioli (p. 305). ^ fl. The lowest ligature. <5. The central one. O" ^^C plants, they had ^' "tolhestrke^i'^^''''''^™"''^^'^''^'''" better be removed also. e. The spike staked and growing quite Four Or fivC strong straight. , .,,1 . branches will be quite enough. An occasional application of fertiliser will do good. Watering and ventilation should have constant 304 HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN attention. There is not likely to be any trouble from insects. Gladioli. — These beautiful flowers will be near the flowering stage, if not actually blooming. The stems ought to be supported with stakes if they are being left to develop, or they may be broken off by a heavy wind ; but the amateur should never fear to cut the spikes while young, on the ground of spoil- ing the bed, because if the plants are strong, successional spikes will appear. Good judg- ment should be exercised in cutting. If some spikes are taken, and others near them left, the bed will be kept gay, while at the same time the house vases are kept furnished. It is a great pleasure to see flowers unfolding in water. Soakings of liquid manure will help the plants to throw up abundance of successional spikes. Support for Dahlias. — Some Fig. 58.— Staking dahlias. Dahlias are opening their first <'■ The stake so inserted as to ^ <=> avoid damaging the tubers, flowers, and all are developing b. How to fasten the main stem rapidly. Old plants generally bloom earlier than young ones, and no impatience need be felt if the latter do not show signs of being at their best before September. We want our Dahlias for late summer and autumn, and are rather pleased than annoyed if they refuse to bloom early. The plants ought to be looked over now, in order to make sure that they are adequately supported. August gales are not common, but they come sometimes, and 305 U Aug. 1-15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. are apt to do a great deal of damage by catching I~I5 gardeners unawares. It is often thought that plants are quite safe, when examination reveals that the tying material has partially rotted away, and needs renewal. If the shoots of Dahlias are numerous and crowded, they must be thinned out — that is, if fine flowers are wanted. Liquid manure will be of great help to the plants. Butterfly Flowers for Spring. — Mid-August is a suit- able time for making a sowing of Butterfly Flowers {Schizanthus) to bloom in the greenhouse next spring. They are charming plants, and give very little trouble. About a dozen seeds may be sown in fine soil in a 6-inch pot, and when the seedlings appear they can be thinned down to five of the best ; or the plants can be raised in boxes, pricked off, and potted singly in 5-inch. They will be all right on a light, airy greenhouse shelf through the winter. Fruit Budding Apples and other Fruit Trees. — The great majority of the fruit trees which are bought from nurserymen have been budded by them on to stocks such as Paradise, Quince, Crab, and Pear. Budding is very rarely practised by amateurs, except in the case of Roses, on account of the difficulty of getting stocks. It requires the same careful manipulation as with Roses (see Chapter VII.). It is done at about the same time, under the same conditions, and in the same way. The following are the principal stocks used: for Apples, Broad-leaved Paradise, Crab, and Free ; the first is the best for bush trees, and the second for standards. For Pears, the Quince and the Pear ; the former is the better for bushes and the latter for standards. For Plums, the Mussel, Myrobalan, Brompton, or St. Julien ; there is 306 A POT OF "Butterfly Flowers" (Schizanthus), a splendid GREENHOUSE PLANT, BOTH FOR SPRING AND AUTUMN BLOOM. HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN little superiority in any for bushes and standards. For Aug, Cherries, Mahaleb, Gean, and Gaskin, the first for bushes, ^""^5 the others for standards. For Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines, the Almond, Mussel, St. Julien, and Bromp- ton. The stock question is a somewhat complicated one, and in the main it is best left to nurserymen. After all, fruit trees, already established on the stocks, are very cheap. The stocks should not be budded before they are three years old. Currants. ^Bushes in the open will have been cleared of their fruit, and may be pruned, the Reds and Whites by the pinching of the breastwood to six leaves, the Blacks by cutting out old wood which has borne fruit. Top-dressings of manure and sewage will help Black Currants to push the strong young wood, which is so important for the next year's fruiting. Trees trained on north walls will still be carrying fruit, perhaps, and netting, held clear of the wall, will have to be used to protect it from birds. Gooseberries. — Practically the same remarks as those made with reference to Red Currants apply to Goose- berries. The bush fruit will have been used, and late wall crops will need protection. Summer pinching may be practised with advantage. A sharp look-out should be kept for the American mildew, and if any diseased patches are seen on the young wood, the twigs should be cut out and burned immediately. Grapes. — In early Vineries, started in winter, the fruit may now have been used, and the object of the grower is to get the wood ripe and brown, particularly at the base of the laterals, where good buds are wanted for the following year's crop. A vigorous washing with the hose will do good as a preliminary ; afterwards free ventilation and full exposure to sun will be helpful. If the laterals 307 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. are so thick that sun and air cannot get at them, they ^"^5 should be shortened. Successional vineries with the fruit hanging ripe will prove a powerful attraction to wasps, and means of baffling them must be resorted to, or they will spoil a good deal of fruit. Perhaps the simplest plan is to cover the ventilator openings with hexagon netting, which large seedsmen supply. Bottles containing sour beer may be hung outside the house as traps. Late Grapes will be advancing towards the ripening stage, but they have a good deal to do yet, and careful attention should be devoted to the ventilation. Close and damp down about three o'clock, and open the ventilators again early the following morning. Ripening Figs. — Outdoor Figs will be ripening now, and as the fruit is of very little flavour unless quite ripe, it will have to hang for some time at the mercy of the birds ^ unless netted, and '^ tJ^gy ^j.g j^q|. ^gj.y fastidious. When the fruit is quite ripe a point should be made of gathering it early in the morning, and keeping it in a cool place until the time comes for it to be put on the table. Pruning Peaches. — Most Peach and Nec- tarine trees under glass will have been and the pruning and We saw a few Fig. 59.— Tying in Peaches. a. How to tie in the main branches. b. How to tie in the young shoots. cleared of their fruit by now training may be proceeded with weeks ago that a shoot was to be allowed to grow 308 HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN* from the base of each fruiting growth, and a heaUhy tree will be full of young shoots, ranging from a foot to two feet long, by mid-summer ; they will be growing out from the wall, and will give the tree a lively and luxuriant, but somewhat untidy, appearance. As soon as the fruit has been picked, the shoots that carried it may be cut back to the point where the new shoots start, and these tied in to bear next year. If there are more young shoots than can be tied in (the word " tied " is used on the assumption that there are wires ; if not, the shoots can be fastened to a wall with nails and shreds) without having them nearer than four inches apart, some had better be cut out altogether, as a close network of growth is undesirable. The weak shoots, under a foot long, and very thin, may be dis- pensed with first. If there are still too many, the very strong ones, a yard long or more, may go. It is true that large late Peaches like Princess of Wales may be allowed to carry stronger wood than small Nectarines like Pine Apple, but, speak- ing generally, wood eighteen to twenty inches long is best. The crossing or twist- ing of shoots is considered bad workmanship. After the trees have been pruned and trained, the hose may be turned on them to get rid of insects. Peaches are sometimes kept too dry after fruiting, with the result that red spider fastens on them. 309 Aug. 1-15 Fig. 60.— Repotting Young Strawberries (p. 310). a. Leaves on drainage. 6, Compost. c. Ball of soil and roots. , THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. Strawberries. — Very young plants struck in small pots ^"^5 early in summer will now be well rooted. If they are wanted for forcing they may be repotted into 6-inch pots. Fibrous loam should form the greater part of the compost, but a quarter of decayed manure and some sand may be added with advantage. The soil should be pressed firmly round the plants. Well-rooted plants intended for fruiting next year in an outdoor bed may be planted immediately, but they should be watered in. Vegetables Asparagus. — Interest in Asparagus beds is not, as a rule, so lively in August as in May, but it should be remembered that the success of the spring crop depends in a great measure on the growth which the Asparagus makes the previous summer. The wise grower keeps his beds free from weeds, and nourishes the plants with occasional soakings of liquid manure, or dustings with chemical fertilisers. Nitrate of potash, at the rate of an ounce per square yard, is a splendid stimulant, and worth using, in spite of the fact that it is rather dear. Beans. — Broad Beans will be over, and may be cleared off the ground. Dwarf French Beans can only be kept growing and bearing by constant picking of the pods while they are still young. Scarlet Runners should also be picked regularly. If large pods are wanted for exhibition, the clusters may be thinned. It is a help to the plants to give liberal doses of liquid manure, and a mulching of short yard manure along the rows will further strengthen them, and help them to continue bearing until autumn. See that the Runners are well supported, and in case of doubt add a few fresh poles and stays, or the row may be blown over in a gale. 310 HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN Cabbages. — Another sowing of Cabbages may be made for spring use. See preceding chapter for varieties. The soil should be fine, friable, and moist. The seedlings should be thinned early, and the hoe run between the rows frequently, in order to keep the plants moving steadily. It is important that they should make uninter- rupted growth, as then they will be strong enough for planting out in October, and are not likely to run to seed in spring. Seed of Red or pickling Cabbage may also be sown now : the plants will form large, solid hearts the following summer. Cauliflowers. — Plants for autumn use that were planted between Potatoes should be examined. It is very undesirable that they should be overgrown. Keep the soil loose about them, and give soakings of water, followed by liquid manure, if the soil should get dry. Celery. — Early Celery will now be benefited by attention. Any suckers springing from the base should be picked out, and the stems can be drawn together and tied with raphia. This will help extension, which will be further stimulated by copious applications of water. If produce 3" Aug. 1-15 Fig. 61.— Tying and Earthing Celery. a. New soil heaped from the bottom of the trench. b. The plant tied to prevent soil lodging in it. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. is wanted for show, or for use at a particular time, I-15 brown paper may be tied round it, or earth drawn up to the stems, about a month beforehand. Lettuces and Endive. — It is common to make a sowing of Lettuces in August for use early in the following year. They are treated like Cabbages — that is, planted out in autumn, and wintered in the open air. Of the older varieties, Hicks' Hardy White and Black-seeded Bath (Cos), and Stanstead Park (Cabbage-shaped), are particularly good for the present sowing, because they are hardy sorts. Sow thinly half an inch deep in moist, friable soil. Broad-leaved Batavian Endive may be sown similarly. Onions are also commonly sown in the early part of August. Lemon Rocca is a good variety, and may be sown an inch deep. Spinach. — The Prickly - seeded Spinach is often sown early in August for use in winter, but it is a some- what uncertain crop, owing to its liability to run to seed, and the Viro- flay and Victoria are perhaps more reliable varieties. The soil should be fertile, friable, and moist ; if dry at sowing time it should be moistened. The drills may be drawn an inch deep and eighteen inches apart, and the seedlings should be thinned in due course. Tomatoes. — Any help that is pos- sible to Tomatoes swelling up a crop of fruit in the garden should be given now. One thing that can be done is to reduce the 312 Fig. 62.— Defoliating Tomatoes. a. Leaves partly cut away. h. Leaves to be severed at the dark cross lines. HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN foliage, either by cutting away part of the large leaves, or Aug. by removing some of the lower ones entirely. Tomato ^~^S plants should never be stripped of their leaves entirely, but the gradual removal of the lower ones is advisable, as it encourages the swelling and colouring of the fruit by the greater concentration of sap and exposure. Another step is to cut round the plants at a distance of about nine inches ; this severs the strong, outgrowing roots, and thereby helps to check growth. Winter Greens. — Any ground that becomes vacant by the removal of Broad Beans, Peas, Potatoes, and other crops, and is not wanted for any special purpose, may be planted up with surplus Winter Greens. The ground is now very warm, and if the plants are watered in they will grow rapidly. AUGUST— Third and Fourth Weeks Aug. 16-31 Auriculas. — In years gone by the Auricula was a great pet of the florists, and was grown in pots for exhibition. There were two great classes, the Stage and the Alpine. The varieties in the former were subdivided according to the prevailing colour near the margin of the petals — Green-edged, White-edged, and Grey-edged — and as Selfs. The following are popular representatives of each class : Green-edged Grey-edged General Neill Alma Rev, F. D. Horner George Rudd Sir John Moore Leah White-edged Self Acme Heroine Heather Bell Mrs. H. Potts Maggie Lauder Sunshine 313 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. The Stage Auriculas are declining in favour, but the ^^"31 Alpines are holding their own, because they make such charming dwarf plants for spring beds. The flowers are not more refined than those of the Stage Auriculas, but they are larger and the colours are richer. They may be raised from seed in summer, the same as Polyanthuses and Primroses. Those who still grow Stage Auriculas in pots should repot them in summer in loam with a little decayed manure and some sand, and put them in a frame which is shaded during the hottest part of the day. Propagating Bedding Plants. — Those who grow perennial non- hardy plants, such as Zonal Geraniums, shrubby Calceolarias, Marguerites, Verbenas, and Heliotrope, in beds will have the question of propagation before them. The Calceolarias may be left till autumn with advantage, but the other four may be propagated now, by means of cuttings, the Geraniums in an open, sunny place out of doors, the remaining kinds in sandy soil in pots, which can be placed in a frame or on a greenhouse shelf. The Geraniums can be inserted in the ordinary garden soil if desired, but it must be made firm ; it is perhaps better to insert them in very sandy soil in shallow boxes, and stand these in a sunny place. The cuttings should be 3H Fig. 63.— Propagating Marguerites. a. Main stem, cut off below a joint. b. Basal leaves to be removed. c. How to insert cuttings in pots or boxes. HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN taken from thick sturdy shoots, cut off just below a joint, Aug". the lower part divested of leaves to permit of inserting 16-31 the cuttings half their depth, and made quite firm at the base. Verbenas strike readily, but the plan of propa- gating from seed sown in winter is now preferred by most growers of this old plant. Heliotrope makes better plants from cuttings than from seed. Chrysanthemums in Pots. — Most of the varieties show their crown buds (see remarks in Chapter VII.) in the second half of August, and they should be " taken " (to use the florists' phrase) at once by removing the cluster of growths which break below them. Attend to watering carefully. Dryness at this period would do great harm. The plants are almost certain to need water once a day in dry weather, and may even require it two or three times. Calceolarias^ Cinerarias^ Cyclamens, and Primulas. — Young plants raised from seed for flowering in winter and spring will be at various stages of growth. Some will be in small pots, and may be transferred from 3-inch to 5-inch when the former are full of roots. Others may be in pans or boxes, and ready for being put separately into small pots. In all cases use a sandy compost con- sisting mainly of loam, and pot firmly. No water will be needed for two or three days if the soil is moist at potting time, but when the plants recommence growing, which may be taken as evidence of fresh root activity, water may be given regularly in dry weather. Seed of Cyclamens may be sown in a greenhouse to give plants for flowering next summer. Any plants which are now showing bloom may be supported with top-dressings of fertiliser. Daffodils and Narcissi. — It was stated in the seventh chapter that those who have clumps of these beautiful 315 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. plants in the garden might Hft, divide, and replant the 1^31 bulbs. Those who have to purchase need not buy before they procure their Fig. 64.— Daffodils in Boxes. a. Drainage. i. The bulbs buried in the compost. e. How to dispose the bulbs in the box. main bulb supply in October, unless they vi^ant to force for early bloom ; in the latter case they may order at once, and put the bulbs close together in large pots or boxes, in a compost of loam (pre- dominating), leaf mould, and sand. The two earliest of the Polyanthus or bunch-flowered Narcissi are Paper White and Double Roman ; Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Obval- laris, and Pallidus Prae- cox are early Daffodils. All may be buried in ashes or cocoa-nut fibre refuse for a few weeks. Freesias and Roman Hyacinths. — Pot more of these beautiful early flowering bulbs. The Hyacinths should be plunged like the Daf- fodils, but the Freesias should not. Pruning Hedges. — Those who satisfy themselves with clipping Privet and Thorn Hedges once a year had better do it soon, for the shoots will soon cease extending and begin to 316 Fig. 65.— Pruning a Privet Hedge. a. A thin part of the hedge. b. Stronger parts. c. How the hedge should be cut, or pruned back. HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN harden. Privet is often pruned twice — in June and in September. Young hedges are greatly strengthened at the base by being well pruned back. Pelargoniums in Pots. — Plants that were rested and cut back after flowering may now be turned out of the pots, a good deal of the old soil crumbled away from the roots, and repotted. Later plants that have ripened up their wood may be cut back. Zonal Geraniums for Winter. — Zonals in 3-inch pots may be trans- ferred to 6-inch, and the latter re- garded as the flowering size. The best place for them until the autumn rains begin (when they should go into a frame), is an ash bed in the open garden. They will need a good deal of water when growing freely. Continue to nip off any flower stems that push. Fruit Gathering Apples and Pears. — The progress of the season is marked by the fact that some of the earlier varieties — such as Irish Peach, Lady Sudeley, Mr. Glad- stone, Duchess of Oldenburg, Lord Suffield, and Lord Grosvenor Apples ; and Jargonelle and Williams' Bon Chretien Pears — are either ripe or near enough to it for use. A safe test of ripeness is to raise the fruit until the stalk is slightly above the horizontal at the apex or fruit end. This brings a gentle pressure to 317 Aug. 16-31 Fig. 66.— Stopping Zonal Geraniums. a. The point of the stem pinched off. b. The dotted lines show the resultant growth of the side shoots. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug", bear on the base, and if the stem breaks away the fruit l6"3l is ready, but there ought not to be any necessity for twisting. The fruit should be spread on plain, clean boards in a cool, airy, sweet place. The Pears may require a little time to become quite mellow, but care must be taken that the Williams' does not go too far. It is soon past its best. Plums. — Early Plums, such as Rivers' Prolific and The Czar, are now ready, and later varieties are approaching ripening. If trees of Victoria are heavily laden, support the branches with poles, as this variety is liable to break down wdth the weight of its crop. Raspberries. — The old canes will have been cleared of their fruit by now, and it will facilitate the ripening of the young ones if the fruiters are cut right out immediately. Should the stools be very strong ones, and have thrown up in consequence a large number of young canes, some of these had better be cut out also. Half-a-dozen strong canes per stool will be ample. It will help them if a good soaking of liquid manure and a mulch of stable manure are given. Strawberries. — Where the advice given to strike early rurmers in pots has been followed there will now be a sufficient stock of young plants, and any later runners which form in the bed may be cut away. If left they 318 Fig. 67.— Gathering Fruit. a. An Apple gathered in the wrong way, as the buds are pulled away, b, and the leaves also, c. d. The Apple properly raised and gathered. c. The stem parting from the branch. f. Leaves and basal buds left intact, HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN root in the ground, and the rows get full of tangled growths. Those who rely on self-struck plants for their stock should pot up the strongest as soon as possible and clear the rest away. The bed then can be weeded, and left clean for the winter. The late self - struclc runners are not likely to be of any use for fruiting before the second year. Vegetables Broccoli. — If Broccoli, and other kinds of winter Greens, have been planted between Potatoes, the crop of which is now being lifted, the plants should be made thoroughly firm by levelling the soil and tread- ing it round the stems. The dwarfer, the harder, the plants get now, the more likely they are to pass the winter safely. Tall, drawn, loose, flabby plants are nearly sure to be killed if a mild autumn is followed by a severe winter. Cabbages. — Sowing for spring use has been advocated already, and it only remains to say that if not already done there should be no further delay. Plants from earlier sowings will now be up, and should be protected from birds with netting until they get a few inches high. If the soil is hoed weekly the plants will grow rapidly, and be quite ready for planting by October. 319 Aug, 16-31 Fig. 68.— Pruning Raspberries (p. 318). a. An old and a weak young cane, both must be cut away. b. Young canes that must be retained. c. How to prune a newly-planted cane. d. Basal buds. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug*. Cauliflowers, — The autumn crop ought to be making I0~3I steady progress towards maturity, and regular hoeing will help it. Liquid manure will be beneficial. It is the practice of some growers to sow seed now for a supply in early summer of the following year, and the old variety Early London is a popular one for the pur- pose. If transplanted in autumn in a sheltered place, they often stand the winter ; but in view of the uncer- tainty, other growers make a practice of sowing in heat in January, hardening the plants in a frame, and putting them out at the end of April. Celery, — Much can be done to improve this valuable crop now. In heavy, naturally moist soil water will not be necessary, but in light, dry land it will have a great influence for good. A weekly soaking of liquid manure will help also, and this may take the form of water in which an ounce of superphosphate per gallon has been dissolved. Half-developed plants may be tied top and bottom with raphia. Early crops may be earthed by drawing soil up to them as high as the tips of the stems ; care should be taken that soil does not get into the hearts. Later crops need not be earthed for another month. Cucumbers in Frames. — A good crop of fruit may have been cut already, but the plants will keep on bearing for a good while yet if they are properly tended. It encourages continuous bearing to cut all the fruit while it is quite young. When the Cucumbers are al- lowed to grow to a great size, bearing is checked. One thing that may be done is to thin out the old growths and encourage new shoots by giving a top-dressing of fresh soil. They will soon begin to bear, and the shoots can be stopped a leaf beyond the fruit. Corn Salad. — Some gardeners use this as a substitute 320 HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN for Lettuces in winter and spring Salads. Seeds for Aug", that purpose may be sown now in drills nine inches 16-31 apart. Leeks. — Growers of Leeks must blanch the stems, just as in the case of Celery. There is no need to earth up at present, so far as plants grown for general use in winter and spring are concerned, but if a few specimens have been grown in a trench for exhibition in late summer or autumn, they may be earthed up. Blanched stems about a foot long and two inches thick throughout — not bulbous at the base and thin above — find favour with judges. Potatoes. — All the early crops, and perhaps some of the second earlies, may be lifted now. The tubers should be allowed to lie on the ground for twenty-four hours Tor the skin to set and get dry. Later crops are hardly likely to be ready for lifting yet, and so long as the tops are green and growing they may be left in the ground. It is not a bad plan, however, to lift a few roots while the plants are still green if sets are wanted for planting next year, because it has been found that immature Potato sets make better seed than ripe ones. They are not so good for eating, of course. The Potatoes which are to be cooked may be put in a store and covered with straw, or placed in a mound in a well-drained spot in the garden, surfaced with a 6-inch thickness of straw, and the whole covered with soil. There should be a vent-hole, stuffed with straw, to permit of moisture escaping. Tomatoes, — From now onwards all the energies of the plants ought to be concentrated on developing the crop. The tips should be pinched out if the plants are still growing, and the lower leaves trimmed or removed. Water and liquid manure will be helpful. 321 X THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Augf. Turnips. — A sowing of Snowball or White Model ^^31 niay be made for use in autumn. Aug. The Garden in August — A Resum6 R6sum6 August is the great holiday month of the year, and gardens sometimes deteriorate owing to the absence of their owners. Where professional gardeners are not kept, an arrangement should be made to have the garden looked after, as if it degenerates very much during the holidays, it is often allowed to run wild for the rest of the summer. A garden ought to give great pleasure for many weeks yet. Among flowers, some of the most important opera- tions in August will be the completion of Rose budding, Carnation layering, and taking the buds off Chrysanthe- mums which are being grown for the production of large blooms. Liliums may be staked, watered, and helped with liquid manure. Fragrant Freesias and white Roman Hyacinths may be potted for early blooming in the greenhouse and conservatory. Young herbaceous Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Cycla- mens, and Primulas may be pricked off or repotted as the case may be. Zonal Geraniums that are being grown for winter blooming in pots should be prevented flowering at present, all the flower stems that show being picked off. Dahlias must be looked after to see that they are adequately staked. The shoots may be thinned and liquid manure given. Schizanthuses ("Butterfly Flowers") may be sown for flowering in spring. 322 HARVEST MONTH IN THE GARDEN Stage Auriculas should be repotted. Alpine Auriculas Aug. are generally grown out of doors. -^ — The propagation of such bedding plants as Zonal ^^^ums Geraniums, Heliotrope, Marguerites, and Verbenas by cuttings may be practised. Early Daffodils and Narcissi may be put into pots or boxes, and plunged for early flowering. Hedges may be pruned. Pelargoniums may be repotted. In the fruit garden the budding of fruit trees may be performed. Currants and Gooseberries may be pruned and top- dressed with manure. Wasps must be excluded from Vineries, and late Grapes encouraged to ripen by careful ventilation. Peaches and Nectarines which have been cleared of their crop may be pruned and trained, old wood being cut out and young tied in. Strawberries for forcing may be repotted, and early- rooted plants intended for the garden put out. Early Apples and Pears may be gathered when the stalk parts from the tree readily. Heavily laden Plum trees should be supported with stakes. The old canes of Raspberries may be cut out after the fruit has been gathered. In the kitchen garden attention may be given to the Asparagus bed. Liquid manure will do good. Kidney Beans must be regularly picked, or they will soon go out of bearing. Soakings of liquid manure may be given. Cabbage seed may be sown to give plants suitable for use in spring, and Cauliflowers for summer crops. Suckers should be removed from Celery, and the plants tied. Early crops may be earthed up. 323 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Aug. Lettuces and Endive may be sown to stand the — winter and give early Salads the following year. Onions, Corn Salad, and Spinach may be sown also. Tomatoes should be stopped, and the lower leaves curtailed or removed. Liquid manure will do good in poor soil. Winter Greens of various kinds may be planted. Particular care should be taken to make Broccoli firm, or it will be killed in winter. Leeks intended for show may be earthed up to blanch the stems. Cucumbers in frames may be looked over, old growths pruned out, and a top-dressing given. Early Potatoes may be lifted and stored. Turnips may be sown for autumn. 324 CHAPTER IX IN INDIAN SUMMERS In " Indian summers " the September garden is a place Sept. of joy. The dehcious, dewy mornings have the freshness of April, the noons have the warmth of June, the even- ings are mild and sweet. Statisticians might reply to any rhapsodies on Indian summers by the production of figures which prove that they are rare in Great Britain, but what gardener ever takes any notice of a statistician? Horticulturists are a class unto themselves, and if they elect to make their plans as though every September could be trusted to give the ideal conditions for garden- ing, who will declare them foolish and misguided ? Is it unwise to provide that the garden shall be pleasant through every hour of September ? Is it misguided to put late-blooming, fragrant plants near a favourite seat ? No, no. If some days are wet, others are fine, and at the worst the flowers can be cut and carried into the house. My view is that we should wring the last drop of enjoyment out of a garden. We should never let our interest in it slacken while there is one plant blooming, or one blade of grass growing, or one fruit on the trees, or one pod left on the Scarlet Runners. We should work in September, weather permitting, with as much zest as if the year were beginning. The fact that sports- men of the classes have begun partridge shooting, and of the masses football ; that the regatta season is over, and the great outdoor exhibitions are announcing their last THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. few days ; that a cricket team is taking ship for the Antipodes, and that pleasure steamers are going into winter quarters — all these things have no bearing on garden operations. The great facts with us are that Dahlias are at their best and early Chrysanthemums beginning ; that Michaelmas Daisies are opening rapidly and bulb catalogues arriving by every post. Then, too, there is that bed of tuberous Begonias which languished a little during the hot, dry days of July, but which freshened up so marvellously under the August rains. See it now, a glorious mass of blossom ; white, blush, pink, rose, salmon, and scarlet. The salmon tints in the double Begonias are indescribably lovely. The Begonia bed alone would be the making of the garden, but the Sweet Peas, constantly picked through- out the hot weather, are still full of bloom ; Dorothy Perkins Rose is nearly as fresh as ever, and the Water Lilies are only inferior to their former glory in that the flowers are a little smaller — the colours are as bright and clear as they were in July. We cannot help a few falling leaves. Foliage will thin down as the summer wanes. And there is much beauty in the leaves that remain. Do some readers confess to a slight feeling of depres- sion when summer flowers have to be cleared away, and the fact comes home that the rearguard has been called up ? Do they carry the foresight that becomes a second nature in gardening to the extent of realising that when the Dahlias, Begonias, Chrysanthemums, and Michael- mas Daisies are done, there will be nothing to take their places ? Let me offer an unfailing specific — it is in- stantly to project some scheme of improvement for next year, and forthwith plunge enthusiastically into it, even if no more can be done for the moment than to make a 326 IN INDIAN SUMMERS rough plan on paper. Perhaps there is an exposed strip Sept. of garden which we can persuade ourselves would be the better for a rustic fence, and this, covered with rambling Roses, would add a new charm to the garden. Or we have an idea for a belt of shrubs, or a new wood- land path. Thus simply can we suppress the ugly spectre of depression, and feed the sacred flame of garden love. SEPTEMBER— First and Second Weeks Sept. I-I5 Flowers Arum Lilies. — We decided to plant our Arum Lilies out of doors late in spring, in order to save that necessity for incessant watering which exists when the plants are kept in pots. We planted them in a trench, where they established themselves cheerfully. They are now strong plants, and in view of the necessity of lifting them towards the end of the month, we shall act wisely by checking the growth at once. This can be done by chopping round them with a spade some nine inches from the stem, so as to sever the out-running roots. Young Carnations. — If we layered our "grass" early, the plants will now be well rooted. Whether they are or not can be ascertained quite easily by scraping away the soil round the layering peg. There will probably be a cluster of fibres a couple of inches thick, in which case the stem may be cut through and the plant taken up without any hesitation. If, on the other hand, there are only a few short threads of root, more time should be allowed, and the mounds should be moistened if dry. The young plants can be put direct into the positions which they are to flower in next year if desired, and on 327 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. the whole they are best out of doors, as they are less l~^5 liable to destruction by " rust " — a fungus which causes brown patches on the leaves, and leads to great loss of foliage. There is a certain risk of injury by frost, but the plant is really hardy in most soils. It is more likely to be killed on a damp site than on a well-drained one. Rabbits must be excluded from the garden. These animals will come close to a house in the quietude of dawn, and they are very fond of Carnations. The majority of growers pot their young plants, and winter them on a bed of cinders in an unheated frame. If they can be kept free from rust, such plants are certainly bigger in spring, as a rule, than plants which have been wintered in the open air ; but they must be examined periodically, and any infected leaves re- moved. Three and a half or 4-inch pots will be suitable, ex- cept for very strong plants, which may have 5-inch. The soil should consist mainly of fibrous loam, with a liberal dash of sand. The plants should be potted firmly. Chrysanthemum Buds. — I have de- scribed the "crown" buds on Chrysanthe- mums, and told how they generally appear in August. They are distinguished, as I have said, by the fact that a cluster of growing shoots breaks out beneath 328 Fig. 69.— Taking Terminal Buus off Chrysanthemums, a. The terminal bud. b. Smaller buds which must be cut off, as denoted by the dark lines. IN INDIAN SUMMERS them. If, instead of a flower bud with its attendant 1-15* set of growth buds, a cluster forms which consists entirely of flower buds, a large one in the centre and small ones around, we no longer have "crown" but "terminal" buds. We see that when a crown bud forms, the plant has not finished producing shoots, because the leaf buds below the crown would carry growth on if they were not pinched out ; but when the branch produces a cluster of flower buds only, it may be taken as a sign that there will be no more shoots produced. I describe the terminal buds, because plants which are grown under less severe restriction than the prize bloom plants may not produce crown buds at all, and if readers knew only of the latter they would be surprised to have a cluster of flower buds without any growth buds beneath them, and wonder what was the best thing to do. " Are terminal buds ever used for prize blooms ? " it may be asked. The answer is that it is quite exceptional. Sometimes a plant grown on the three-stem principle is developed with terminal buds, and large flowers got, but the crown bud is generally used. Terminal buds on bush plants may be thinned down to the central one if a few fairly large flowers are wanted, but if a plant full of flowers is required, to give small blooms suitable for cutting, the clusters may be left unthinned. Dahlias in Bloom. — September is the great month of the Dahlia, and the most must be got out of the plant that it can possibly give. Sometimes the flowers do not show up very well, owing to being partially hidden among the leaves ; a little judicious thinning and staking will do something to remedy this trouble. Soakings of water and mulchings of manure will help to maintain the display of flowers. 329 Sept. 1-15 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Dracaenas. — The Dracaena is one of the most popular of foliage plants for warm houses, and is very handsome when well grown. Now is a good time to repot plants which need it. Moreover, the tops of long, overgrown plants may be taken off, in- serted in small pots, and struck in a warm, moist propagator. Dividing Pinks. — I spoke of the propagation of Pinks by pipings in an early chapter. If desired, large plants of the free- growing varieties can be increased by division. The clumps can be pulled into several pieces, each with roots attached, andplanted separately. Striking Rose Cuttings. — The propagation of Roses by budding was dealt with in Chapter VII., and it was stated that although a good many Roses are budded on to standard Briers taken from the hedges, still more — especially in the nurseries — are budded on to dwarf Brier stocks which were raised from cuttings. This may have suggested the question : " If Brier cuttings can be struck, why not Rose cuttings ? Why make two operations, the first the propagation of the Brier, the second that of budding the Rose on to it, when one will do ? " Roses may be struck from cuttings, but 330 Fig. 70.— Striking the Top of a Dracaena. a. The top of the plant and the point where it should be cut off. h. The top tied loosely. c. Sand placed around the base of the cutting in a deep, narrow pot. IN INDIAN SUMMERS it is not general for the different varieties to come so Sept. strong and early as from buds. Those who wish to ^"^5 try home raising may do so, and the present time is suitable. It is well to take firm shoots of the current year's growth (those that have borne flowers will do) seven or eight inches long, and insert them nearly to the top quite firmly. They |l may be put in two inches apart in a row. Brier cuttings for stocks may be struck in the same way. Foj'cing Tulips for Early Bloom. — Bulb dealers lij supply a class of Tulip called the Due van Thol Jll"] which is very much earlier in bloom than the majority of Tulips, and it can be utilised for forcing. The typical variety has red and yellow flowers, but scarlet, yellow, and white, in separate colours, can be got also. Bulbs and flowers are alike small. As many as six bulbs may be put into a 5-inch pot. A compost of loam, leaf mould (one quarter), and sand will suit. Striking and the bulbs should be buried nearly, but cuttings. not quite, to the tips. They may be plunged ''• ^sev"erin1 in ashes or cocoa-nut fibre refuse for a few cutting. . b. Portion to weeks, and then pushed on m a warm house, be cut like Roman Hyacinths and early Narcissi. Fruit Figs on Outdoor Walls. — The young wood which has formed on Fig trees during the past summer should not be allowed to sway loose and wild in the wind, but should be nailed into the wall with shreds. If some old wood has to be cut out to make room for it, so much the better. There need be no hesitation 331 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. about thinning Fig wood ; it is rarely practised suffi- ^"^5 ciently. If a second crop of fruit has formed, and now hangs on the trees without any appearance of swelHng, it may be removed, for if left it will only fall in the spring. Grapes. — The Grapes will long have been cleared from early Vines, and the latter will be ripening their wood and maturing their buds. But in later houses the fruit may be hanging ripe. The fruit keeps well on the Vines if the house is cool and the foliage thin. If fruit is not yet ripe, it will be well to put a little heat into the hot-water pipes in dull weather. The borders should be watered if they get dry. Gathering Fruit. — Amateurs are often in a difficulty because they do not know what to do with fruit which shows no signs of ripening. Some Apples and Pears are still quite hard and green, while others mellowed long ago. The explanation is that the former are naturally late varieties. They may never ripen on the trees at all, and have to be gathered unripe, but that need not be done for a month or six weeks. It is sufBcient for the present to gather fruit that parts from the tree without hard pressure. It often happens that even in the case of one particular variety some of the fruits are soft before others, so that there need be no general gathering. It is a pleasure to prolong this interesting and pleasant task. Apples like Lord Suffield, Lord Grosvenor, New Hawthornden, Bismarck, Keswick Codlin, Duchess of Oldenburg, Duchess of Gloucester, and Worcester Pearmain may be expected to be ready for gathering soon. Such Pears as Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, Caillot Rosat, Dr. Jules Guyot, and Souvenir du Congres may be ready also. A test, other than that of the fruit parting from the tree under gentle 332 IN INDIAN SUMMERS pressure, is to cut open a fruit and see if the pips have turned dark, but it will only be a guide to fruits in the same stage of development as the one operated upon. Peaches and Nectarines. — In houses where Peaches are now ripening the ventilation should be free, as abund- ance of air will be a great help. The tying or nail- ing in of the young wood of trees which have been cleared of their fruit should be completed as soon as possible. Pruning Fruit Trees. — The annual pruning of fruit trees is generally done in winter, and the -whole subject is dealt with fully in Chapter I,, but a ripening process of great importance is now going on ; the shoots and buds are maturing, and much unseen and often unsus- pected work is proceeding that has a considerable bearing on the future crop. For this reason it is often wise to thin crowded trees in September. Large branches can be removed safely, as growth for the year is practically over. The thinning enables sun heat to operate more effectually on the wood left. Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries may all be operated upon. Sept. 1-15 Fig. 72.— Pruning out Large Branches OF Crowded Fruit Trees. a. Cross branches which must be cut out. b. Larger branches which should be cut from the centre of the tree. Vegetables Work is not very active in the kitchen garden during the early part of September, but the work of 333 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. clearing ground of mature or exhausted crops goes on I-15 steadily. Celery. — The main crop may be encouraged by giving water and liquid manure, and also by tying. There is no necessity for earthing yet, as frost is unlikely, and the plants will grow faster without soil about them than with it. Endive and Lettuce. — The progress of plants in seed rows can be expedited by thinning and hoeing. The most forward plants can be put out a foot apart. Onions. — Small Onions, grown from seed sown out of dd^rs in spring, will ripen quickly if they are drawn from the soil and left lying in the sun for a few days ; but much larger plants, resulting from seed sown under glass in winter, and planted in very deep, rich soil in April, will need more attention. They cannot be left safely unchecked after the middle of the month, because if the weather should turn wet they would be liable to start growing afresh, and that would be disastrous. If they have got a very firm hold of the soil owing to the roots having struck down deeply, they can be checked by bending the bulbs sideways day after day, thus breaking the roots by degrees. This, combined with laying over the tops, will bring growth to a standstill. If the bulbs are very large they will require a good deal of ripening, and had better be exposed to all the sunshine that there is throughout September, but put under cover at night, and in wet weather. Potatoes. — What is called supertuberation, or second growth, in Potatoes, consists in the production of small new tubers at the end of the season, when the plants have apparently finished growing and matured their crop, or in fresh outgrowths on the large tubers. In the latter form it is particularly objectionable, because it practically 334 IN INDIAN SUMMERS amounts to deformity, and greatly impairs the value of Sept. the crop. Second growth is very common in a wet ^~^5 September, and it is the liability of it which makes lifting as soon after maturity as possible advisable. Spinach sown a few weeks ago ought now to be up, and ready for thinning. The plants should be left quite clear of each other, or they will get crowded and run to seed. Tomatoes. — Accelerate the development of outdoor Tomatoes by reducing the foliage on the lower part of the plants and round the fruit. Individual fruits that have grown to a satisfactory size may be removea and ripened off the plant, either on a window ledge, or in a box in a cellar. Plants on which the fruits have swollen evenly, and are large enough, may be taken up bodily, and hung head downwards in a cool, clean out- house. The fruit will colour quite well there. If winter Tomatoes are wanted, cuttings may be struck now. A warm house will be needed for the plants. SEPTEMBER— Third and Fourth Weeks Sept. T- 16-30 Flowers Arum Lilies. — Plants in the garden that have been checked by being cut round with a spade will be ready to lift now. They should be potted as fast as they are taken up, as if left lying about they might get dry and sustain a check which would cost them all their foliage. In any case they are apt to lose a leaf or two, but that is of no great consequence. The small plants may go into 5-inch pots, the larger into 6-inch or 7-inch. Fibrous loam, with a quarter of decayed manure or leaf mould, and some sand, will suit them. They may be kept rather 335 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. dry for a few days after potting, but as soon as they 16-30 start growing again watering must be resumed. They will be quite comfort- able on a greenhouse stage. When buying Arum Lilies, remember the great merits of the variety called the God- frey ; it is remarkably free alike in growth and bloom. Winter Flowering Be- gonias. — It is time to give attention to the beautiful fibrous-rooted Begonias which are so useful for winter flower- ing, notably Gloire de Lorraine and Turnford Hall, which are pink and white respectively. In earlier chapters it was suggested that they should be rested after flowering, and that when shoots broke from the pruned stumps they should be taken off as cuttings and struck. The young plants which resulted ought to be nice specimens now, suitable either for culture in pots or for hanging baskets. If they are in quite small pots they may be transferred to 5-inch or 6-inch, which will be large enough for flowering them in. They should go into a light house with a minimum temperature of 55° to 60°. This will be warm enough to bloom them in, and to keep them in beauty for many months. Bush Chrysanthemums. — Many amateurs find that the culture of Chrysanthemums on the three-stem principle 336 Fig. 73.— Lifting Arum Lilies, a. The line around the plant where the tool should be inserted to raise the plant. b. The plant duly potted. IN INDIAN SUMMERS for yielding limited numbers of very fine flowers, although Sept. full of interest, has its drawbacks. It does not yield 16-30 plants suitable for low groups, or for rooms, or for producing large quantities of cut bloom. Bush plants, grown from cuttings in spring and pinched two or three times, will serve these purposes admirably. They will soon produce buds, which are likely to produce ter- minals (see previous remarks) in clusters, and these can be thinned or not at discretion. If disbudding is practised, it should only be done moder- ately, as clusters of small flowers not only look nice on the plants, but are very useful for cutting. The plants may be fed with liquid manure twice a week. Liquid from natural manure ought not to be used much darker than the colour of amber. Early Hyacinths. — Reference has been made to the potting of white Roman Hyacinths for early bloom already, but some amateurs like to have early flowers of the large Dutch Hyacinths, and they may be interested to hear that there are several good sorts which are suitable for early blooming. Amongst them may be noted the single blues Charles Dickens and Regulus (the former is the better of the two), the double white La Tour d'Auvergne, and the single reds. Amy and General Pelissier. Bulbs of these varieties are generally pro- curable before the end of September. They may be potted singly in 5-inch pots, in loam, leaf mould, and 337 Y Fig, 74.— Disbudding Bush Chrysanthemums. This shows severe disbudding, only central buds being retained. The disbudding may be lighter if desired. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. sand, with the tips protruding about half an inch, and 10-30 plunged in cocoa-nut fibre refuse for about six weeks, then put in a warm house. Christmas and Lenten Roses. — We glanced at a few fine varieties of these beautiful plants in an early chapter, and saw that they were well worthy of the attention of all flower lovers. The Christmas Roses (Helleborus Niger and other species and varieties of Helleborus) are particularly valuable, because they produce large flowers — in most cases pure white — in autumn and winter. The Kew plan of colonising them among hardy Ferns out of doors was mentioned. The Fern fronds act as a shelter, and as they decay form a carpet, so that there is no fear of soil being splashed up to stain the purity of the lovely blossoms of the Christmas Roses. Readers who are lovers of hardy Ferns might consider this plan of associating two distinct, yet in their way equally attractive, classes of plant. The combination might be formed in any shaded and sheltered spot. The colony would prove attractive both in summer and winter. September is the best month of the year for planting Christmas Roses. They delight in a deep, cool soil. If they are put in a yard apart there will be plenty of room for planting the Ferns between them in the following spring. For the present, some clean litter may be scattered round the plants when they come into bloom, to act as a protection and a preservative of their purity. Poinsettias. — These brilliant plants, struck from por- tions of old stem as advised a few weeks ago, and grown in frames, ought now to be placed in a greenhouse. Berry-Bearing Solanums^ planted out of doors in the same way as Arum Lilies, may now be similarly lifted and potted. 338 IN INDIAN SUMMERS Violets. — The time is near when Violets that are in- Sept. tended for flowering in frames in winter must be lifted. 10-30 As a preparatory measure, they may be checked by driving a spade round them a few inches away from the central crown. If Violets are being grown in pots, any runners which form should be cut off, or they will rob the old plants. Fruit Gathering-. — The gathering and storing of fruit will continue to engage attention. Several of our best Pears, notably Beurre Diel, Souvenir du Congres, Con- ference, Fertility, Marie Louise, Doynne Boussoch, Pit- maston Duchess, and Emile d'Heyst may be expected to be ready for gathering by the end of September. The individual fruits on the trees may vary, and none should be forced off. Muscat Grapes. — Muscat of Alexandria, that long- berried, long-bunched, golden-yellow Grape, is one of the finest flavoured varieties which we have, and growers who succeed in ripening a good crop of it may be con- gratulated. The house should be kept dry, and a little heat maintained in the pipes in dull, damp weather. Melons. — Early crops of Melons will have been finished, and if later ones are being grown the blooms will probably be open. They should be pollinated in accordance with previous instructions. Raspberries. — If the old canes from which fruit has been picked have not yet been removed, they should be cut out without delay, and the young shoots thinned to half-a-dozen of the best from each root. Strawberries. — Plants in small pots, raised from layers in early summer, should be transferred to 6-inch 33Q THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. pots if wanted for forcing, and the new soil pressed 16-30 firmly round them. Vegetables Brussels Sprouts. — In speaking of the planting of Brussels Sprouts in an earlier chapter, it was recom- mended to plant them wide apart, in order that they might not grow into each other. There is another direction, however, in which they may become crowded, and that is in the stem leaves. The grower will notice that it is the habit of the Brussels Sprout to form a tuft of leaves at the top of the stem, and to throw out others from the sides. The former should be retained, but the latter interfere with the development of small, hard sprouts on the stem, in addition to harbouring insects, and ought to be removed. They may be broken short off one by one at intervals of a few days until none are left. Firm sprouts will then form on the stem, and steadily develop until they are nearly as large as golf balls (the varieties differ somewhat in size of sprouts) when they are ready for use. The Brussels Sprout is one of the most useful green vegetables of autumn. It gives a great deal of produce, and the flavour is excellent so long as the sprouts are firm ; when they are loose and open the flavour is poor. Cabbages for Spring. — Spring Cabbages from seed sown at the end of July may be ready for planting out now. If they are three inches high they are large enough. They may be planted in rows eighteen inches apart, and made quite firm, as this has a considerable influence on early hearting. On that account it is an excellent plan to put them out in ground from which Onions have been removed, as it is both fertile and firm. 340 IN INDIAN SUMMERS Cauliflowers that were sown in August may be pricked Sept. out nine inches apart for the winter. If they are dwarf, 16-30 sturdy plants, and are put into firm soil, they may pass the winter safely, and give a useful early crop next year. Carrots. — The crop is nearly or quite mature, but there need be no hurry about lifting so long as the roots are not splitting at the top ; if they are, they had better be taken up at once. Celery. — If the district is mild there is very little fear of sharp frost yet, and consequently any Celery that is at all backward may be left unearthed at present. It will probably make a good deal of growth in October. Any plants that are full grown may be earthed. A great deal of soil will be required to thoroughly earth a row of large Celery. It should be raised quite to the tuft of leaves at the top of the plant at the second earthing, the first one merely fiUing up the trench. The soil ought to be in a moist, crumbly state when applied. If the Celery has been tied, there is little fear of earth getting inside, otherwise the stems must be held together in the early stage of the earthing. Late Winter Cucumbers. — If Cucumbers are being grown for an autumn supply, they must be planted out soon on mounds of warm, rich soil. The hints given for the treatment of the early crop will apply. Endive and Lettuces. — Plants for spring, raised by sowing seed in August, ought to be ready for planting out now, and should be put a foot apart. Onions. — Continue the ripening off of mature bulbs in accordance with previous hints. Plants raised from seed sown in August may be thinned, so that they stand quite clear of each other. Turnips. — August sowings may be thinned, and a 34^ THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Sept. sowing of the excellent hardy variety Chirk Castle made 16-30 for winter. Sept. The Garden in September — A Resume R6sum6 With regular attention to mowing, hoeing, and the removal of decaying flowers, the garden ought to be bright, pleasant, and interesting in September. Sweet Peas should still be beautiful if seed formation has been prevented. Arum Lilies that were planted out in late spring may be checked in the early part of the month, and potted up in the latter part. Solanums may be potted up also. Dahlias should have attention, and any defective staking rectified. Chrysanthemums may form clusters of terminal buds, which may be thinned if desired. Liquid manure will help the plants. Dracaenas may be repotted and propagated. Rose cuttings may be inserted, and attention given to the training of chmbers. Carnations from layers may be planted out, or potted and put in frames. Pinks may be divided. A few selected early varieties of Hyacinths may be potted, and likewise Due van Thol Tulips. Poinsettias and fibrous-rooted Begonias in- tended for winter blooming should be placed in a warm house. Violets that are to be lifted for wintering in frames may be checked by chopping round them with a spade. In the fruit garden, gathering should continue ; several good Apples and Pears are likely to be ready. The present is a good time to thin the branches of any trees that are very thick. In vineries where the Grapes are ripening, watering 342 IN INDIAN SUMMERS should continue, and the pipes should be warmed up Sept. in cold weather. Houses in which the Grapes are ripe — should be kept cool, dry, and the foliage thin. R6sum6 The young wood of Fig trees on outside walls should be nailed in. Give plenty of air to houses in which Peaches are ripening. All the young wood should be fastened in if not done already. Late Melons which are in bloom may have the fruit impregnated. Strawberries may be repotted, and have any runners which form removed. Old Raspberry canes may be cut out. With regard to vegetables, the foliage on ripening Tomatoes may be thinned, and forward fruit picked off. If plants are wanted for winter fruiting, cuttings should be struck now. Celery may be earthed. Onions should be ripened, and late-sown crops thinned. Potatoes should be lifted when the foliage matures, or second growth may follow. Summer sown Turnips may be thinned, and Chirk Castle sown for winter. Spinach from August sowings may be thinned, and Endive and Lettuce planted out to stand the winter. Cucumber plants for late crops may be planted now. Cabbages for spring should be planted on firm soil. The lower leaves may be removed from the stems of Brussels Sprouts by degrees, as it will help the Sprouts to form. Cauliflowers sown in August may be pricked out. Carrots may be lifted if the roots are splitting. 343 CHAPTER X A NEW OUTLOOK Oct. I WANT a word — a friendly, confidential word — with garden-loving folk who are sensitive to external sur- roundings, and influenced by every passing variation in the weather. There is no play on the face of Nature, however slight, which they do not observe. If their august mistress smiles they are elated, if she frowns they are sad. Human beings who are constituted like this are affected by a hundred things which the mass never so much as sees. They comprise some of the finest spirits of the nation. Kind, tender-hearted, with souls tuned to an abhorrence of what is cruel and wrong, they feel the rough, jagged edges of the world acutely. People of this class sometimes tell me that the autumn oppresses them. They cannot enjoy their gardens when vegetation is decaying. They cannot find pleasure in country walks when the leaves are coming down and the fields are swathed in mist. They complain of lowered health, too : an intermittent heart- beat, the dull gnawing of neuritis. They actually speak, at the absurdly youthful age of sixty-five, of growing old! Perhaps there are some among my readers who are constituted similarly to these poor sensitive souls. Will they forgive me if I say that I fully sympathise with and comprehend them ? And will they let me assure them that if they try and understand the garden 344 A NEW OUTLOOK as I try to understand them, it will do wonders for them ? Oct. Of course the intermittent heart-beat at sixty-five is a factor that has to be considered, but I protest against the morbidity that prompts a man to lie awake o' nights ringing the changes on i, 2, 3, o, o, 4, 5, and i, o, o, 2, o, 3, 4, 5, when he has such a delicious problem to solve as the selection of his Tulips for next spring's flowering. To think, too, of a person worrying over neuritis when he can buy a beautiful, illustrated book of shrubs for a shilling, and plan new beds for autumn making ! Personally, when I have neurotic pangs I employ a muscular masseur to knead me, and while he is thus engaged (getting very hot, I observe, in his con- suming earnestness), I placidly peruse the descriptions in the new Rose catalogues, and I think what admirable writers there are among those who draw up nursery- men's catalogues. How they would excel as novelists, with their wonderful powers of description, gifts of ima- gination, and knowledge of humanity ! What I particularly want to say to the sensitive soul is this : Where lies the justification for depression when you know quite well that Nature works in a never-ceasing round ? Who can feel grieved at the fall of the leaf when he learns that clever device which the twig has of ripening and hardening under the stalk, and sees that the same mellowing process which squeezes the leaf off swells up the apparently lifeless buds that are to give foliage and blossom next year ? As well mourn over the moulting of a fowl. While the stems of your her- baceous plants, and of your Raspberries, are dying, the crowns on the rootstocks below are thickening. As the Gladiolus foliage withers above ground a new corm superimposes itself on the old one below. You take Apples and Pears from the trees, but you leave on them, 345 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. as a result of your skilled pruning, wonderful store- houses in the form of buds that are packed with leaves, stems, blossoms, and fruit, all to come forth in their season. There is no such thing as a dreary countryside or a depressing garden. These evil visions are the offspring of ill-balanced, untrained minds. One of the most lovely and satisfying things in nature is an expanse of down- land on the heart of a winter night, seen in shadow- glimpses as the clouds race each other past the moon. And the happiest moments of happy lives are those spent in clearing vegetable debris from fading beds, and turning the rich brown earth in readiness for the bulbs and plants which are to welcome the spring. October and November are splendid garden charac- ters. They want understanding, but they are worth studying. Do we feel the most interested in those of our acquaintances who are the most elementary and obvious ? I think not. If their beauty is only " skin- deep," they tend to bore us after a time. There are no depths to be probed, no elusive clues to be followed up, no difficulties of comprehension to stimulate us. In autumn we have it given to us to touch the bedrock of gardening success. We can take such portion of mother Earth as is under our influence, and by the exercise of our own personal handiwork double its pro- ductiveness. Is not that a great thought ? Does it not fill us with inward stirrings, with ardent resolves ? Does not the very reflection give us grit and backbone ? And do we not feel that we see all life in a new light ? The simple philosophy of the garden widens all our outlook, gives us new hopes, new interests, and new knowledge. 346 A NEW OUTLOOK OCTOBER— First and Second Weeks Flowers Let us clear up a few odd tasks connected with the flower garden, and so make room for the great study of the bulbs. Tuberous Begonias. — Early October often sees the lovely tuberous Begonias at their best. They love the long, cool nights, and, refreshed by the heavy dews, turn brilliant lamps of blossom to the midday sun. But in light, dry soils they do not last so long ; the foliage shrinks, the stems slacken, and the whole bed shows a de- cline. The first frost finishes off the work of natural decay, and the erstwhile beautiful plants turn black. Now is the time to bring forth the fork, and carefully lift the tubers. It is not neces- sary to scrape every particle of soil from them at the moment of lifting. Spread them to dry, covering them with an old sack at night, and in a few days they can be cleansed and stored in some dry, frost-proof place for the winter. Propagating Bedding Calceolarias, — Young shoots of the yellow-flowered shrubby Calceolaria may be taken now, and inserted firmly in sandy soil in boxes, which 347 Oct. I-I5 Fig. 75.- -LiFTiNG Tuberous Begonias. a. Tuber with fading leaves and stalks. b. Soil and roots adhering to the tuber. c. Tuber prepared for storing in a box. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. may be placed in a frame. The cuttings should be I~I5 made quite firm. Housing Chrysanthemums. — Chrysanthemums love the cool, dewy nights of October, and seem so fresh and happy in the open air that there is a real reluctance to disturbing them. But a sharp frost may come at any time now, and if it caught the grower of prize-bloom plants unawares, it might spoil all his season's work in a night. To be on the safe side the plants must be housed, and as the work involves some amount of preparation, a beginning should be made as early as possible in October. Are; the plants to be arranged in a group in the conserva- tory or vinery ? Then get any stages which may exist there taken down and packed away. Clear up all rubbish. If there is any damp, or if there has been any trouble from insects, give the walls a coating of whitewash and the woodwork a scrubbing. Place a few clean, empty boxes and large flower pots handy, because it may be necessary to mount some of the plants to display them to the best advantage. Take care that the growths of the plants are not blown about and injured while being detached from their supports in the garden and transported to the house. Cleanse the pots. It is probable that the plants vary a great deal in height, in which case they may be arranged in 348 Fig, 76.— Grouping Chrys- anthemums. Pathway in a lean-to greenhouse. Dwarf plants near the pathway. The back of the group. (The arrangement should result in a nice undulating surface.) A NEW OUTLOOK a slope from back to front. A fringe of some dwarf plant along the front will, by hiding the pots and boxes, impart a neat finish to the group. Exercise great care in watering for a few days after housing. The plants may be a little limp for a few days, and much water will be bad. The plants should be kept under close obser- vation for a few days. Watering may be resumed when they are seen to be freshening up again. Give plenty of air in fine weather. If mildew should appear, dust with flowers of sulphur. When the plants settle down to their new surroundings the buds will swell rapidly, and liquid manure may be given twice a week. Cinerarias and Her- baceous Calceolarias. — If the advice to keep these plants in cold frames through the summer has been followed, they ought to be strong and sturdy now. They may be kept in the frames for a week or two longer if thick mats are placed over the lights at night in cold weather, but the sooner they are put into a heated house the better. Lifting Dahlias and Cannas. — We expect to have Dahlias in beauty for the early part of October at all events, and we hope that absence of frost will permit them to go on flowering for the whole of the 349 Oct. 1-15 Fig. 77.— Lifting Dahlias. a. A cluster of tubers lifted and the stems cut off i ft. above them. b. How to stc re the tubers. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. month, even into November. But if a cold spell should ^"^5 lay them low in October, we bow to the inevitable with a good grace. It is usual to lift the roots and store them in a dry place for the winter, but many amateurs, pre- sumably because they are short of both time and room, leave them in the ground. Sometimes the roots rot in the soil, often they grow again in spring. Much turns on the character of the soil and the nature of the winter. In a heavy, damp soil and a cold locality, more losses might be expected than in a light, drained soil in a mild district. If it is decided to lift the rootstocks, they should be taken up a few days after cutting off the tips, and stored in a dry, frost-proof place. Cannas ought to be lifted and stored in all cases. Gladioli in A utuinn. — The splendid Gladiolus wanes towards the end of September, and the foliage begins to ripen off even if there is no frost. When the leaves turn yellow the plants ought to be taken up, and the stems removed from the corms. It may be found that new corms have formed on the large ones, and in this case the older part can be broken off and thrown away ; the two portions part from each other quite readily. The new corms can be stored in a dry place free from frost for the winter, and replanted the following year, when Fig. 78.— Lifting Gladioli. a. Removing soil from corms. b. Corm prepared for storing. c. Flower stem cut off well above corm. A NEW OUTLOOK they will probably bloom. There may be small separate Oct. corms around the larger one. These should also be I"i5 stored, as some of them will bloom the following year, and the remainder a year later. Zonal Geraniums for Bedding. — If cuttings of Zonal Geraniums were inserted in August, there will now be a stock of young plants, because the cuttings will have rooted and made top growth. The care of these plants through the winter is one of the difficulties of the bedding system. The plants are tender, and would be killed if caught by frost. On the other hand, if they are encouraged to grow in a warm house they soon become so large that they outgrow the accommodation. The only thing that the grower can do is to keep them as cool as is consistent with safety, and give no more water than is necessary to prevent them from flagging. If they were struck in the open ground they should be lifted and put close together in boxes or pots. A cold frame will not do for them. Old Geraniums with woody stems will endure several degrees of frost, but young plants with soft green shoots are easily injured. Lilies for Pots. — Several of the Liliums are deservedly popular plants for pot cultivation, as they make a charming display in conservatories. Candidum is some- times grown, though the old " Madonna Lily " is perhaps more generally planted in the garden. Kraetzeri is a lovely white pot Lily, as it is of dwarf, branching growth and flowers freely. It is a variety of Speciosum, which has spotted flowers, and is also well worth growing. Auratum and its fine varieties, Wittei and Rubro-Vitta- tum, are frequently grown in pots. Longiflorum and its variety, Harrisi (Bermuda Lily) are popular — the latter in particular. British-grown bulbs of most of these Lilies can be bought in October, but the buyer must 35 1 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. 1-15 expect to have to pay a higher price than for the imported bulbs which are on sale at mid-winter. They may be potted and plunged like Hyacinths. Pansies and Violas from Cuttings. — There is perhaps no better month in the year for propagating Pansies and Violas by means of cuttings than October. As a rule, plenty of side shoots, with a few roots attached, can be found on the plants at this time of year, and if they are taken off and inserted firmly in sandy soil in a box they will eventually make nice plants. They may or may not form fresh roots before winter, but whether they do or not (and it is just as well if they do not), they will grow early in spring, and form good material for planting out in April. The boxes may be placed in a frame, as no ordinary winter is likely to see injury done to the cuttings by frost. In exceptionally severe weather a mat may be placed over the glass. Propagating Pentstemons and Snapdragons. — Both of these splendid hardy plants are thoroughly worthy of wide cultivation, and although they are readily raised ^S2 Fig. 79.— Striking Pansy Cuttings. a. A suitable cutting from the base. b. How to insert the cuttings. c. Line f-r the next row. d. Sand at base of the cutting. A NEW OUTLOOK from seed, and flower the same year if sown early, the fact that it is often desired to keep a particular variety true to colour and habit turns atten- tion to propaga- tion by means of cuttings. Both Pentstemons and Antirrhinums strike from cuttings, and plants so raised are identical with their parents. The cut- tings should be of young growths free from flower buds, but this is more important in the case of Pentste- mons than Snapdragons ; the latter will not refuse to grow merely because they have buds. The cuttings should be inserted firmly in sandy soil in boxes, and put in a cold frame now ; they will make nice plants for spring planting. A Frame of Violets. — It is delightful to be able to pick Violets, large and sweet, throughout the winter. Can this be done with regularity? In the main, yes. It is true that in a severe winter there may be spells when there will be very few flowers, but it is not likely that there will be many days on which none can be found. In almost every large garden there is a range of frames, sometimes extending to half-a-dozen, devoted to winter Violets, but in smaller places it is possible that only one frame can be spared. Well, such provision is not to be 353 z Oct. I-I5 Fig. 8o.— Striking Pentstemon Cuttings. a. Basal leaves to be removed. b. Cuttings inserted in a small frame. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. despised. Let us make the most of it, and hope for a I-15 fair reward in the way of winter perfume. If we have strong plants of our own growing — possibly struck from divisions or runners late in spring — well and good ; if not, we can buy them from a florist, but in the latter case we must stipulate for strong forcing plants. We want a steady heat be- neath our plants, and this we can get from a mixture of stable manure and leaves. They should be trodden into a firm mass about thirty inches deep after the manure has been turned a few times, and surfaced with a foot of loamy soil. The Violets can be planted about nine inches apart. With watering as re- quired, and ventilation in favourable weather, the plants will make and maintain healthy growth, and will throw up a steady succession of flowers. They are sometimes attacked by insects, notably red spider, but not, as a rule, when enough water and air are given. Among double varieties, Mrs. W. W. Astor and Marie Louise are great favourites. Princess of Wales is a charming single. Fig. 81,— Planting Violets in a Frame. a. A strong plant. h. The plants put in so that the leaves will almost touch the glass. Fruit Grapes. — Vines in early houses — that is, those which are started in winter to fruit in early summer — will now 354 A NEW OUTLOOK be quite mature, and the laterals may be pruned to the Oct. plump bud at the base. The rods may be washed in ^~^5 water in which a little soft soap has been dissolved, and the walls whitewashed. Late Vines will not have quite ripened up their laterals yet ; the latter may be reduced to half their length, and fully pruned later on. Root- Pruning Fruit Trees. — When the leaves are turning yellow on fruit trees, any which have made a great deal of wood, and have not blossomed, may be root-pruned. Summer growth that exceeds thirty inches in length may be regarded as dangerously strong, and to curtail the roots of the trees which produce it cannot possibly do any harm unless it is carried to excess. A wise plan is to cut through all the thick roots on one side of the tree the first year ; if that does not sufilice to check exuberance and cause fruitfulness, the other side may be operated on the following year. Of course, this is in reference to large trees ; small ones may be lifted bodily, and all the strong roots trimmed. Pot Strawberries. — Where frame room is limited, a good plan of disposing of pot Strawberries which are intended for forcing is to stack them in a heap on their sides. The main object is to protect the plants from the autumn rains. If the soil gets saturated the plants do not thrive ; moreover, sharp frost may cause the moist soil to swell and split the pots. Placing the pots on their sides precludes further watering, but that is hardly likely to be required now. Where there is abundance of frame room the plants can be kept in frames, with the pots plunged in ashes. Vegetables Lifting Beetroot and Carrots. — The main crops of these two useful vegetables are now mature, and may be taken 355 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. I-I5 up and stored. The fork should be used with care, especially in the case of Beetroot, as if the root is injured the colour is lost. It generally suffices to loosen the soil with the tool, the roots can be drawn out after- wards by grasping the tops with the hand. The tops should be removed without injury to the crown. The roots keep well in sand, and under straw with a covering of soil. Parsnips should be left in the ground, and only lifted as required for use. Cabbages, Celery, and Leeks. — Cabbages for spring may be planted, and Celery earthed, in accordance with the hints given last month. Leeks may also be earthed. Potatoes may be lifted and "clamped" under straw and earth when the foliage turns yellow. See that no un- sound tubers are put away with the others, or more may be contaminated. Tomatoes ought to be ripened off under cover if they have not already coloured out of doors. It is dangerous to leave them out any longer. Fig. 82.— Storing Root Vegetables. a. Where to remove the leaves of Beetroot. i. The portion of a Carrot top to leave on. c. The roots stored. d. Soil e. Straw. 356 A NEW OUTLOOK Oct. OCTOBER— Third and Fourth Weeks 16-31 Flowers Re-planting Flower Beds for Spring. — Except in very mild seasons the summer plants, even Begonias, will now be over, and the beds may be cleared, dug, and planted for spring. Bulbs, and some of the biennials and perennials referred to in earlier chapters, will be valuable for this purpose. Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, and Primroses, Sweet Williams, Canterbury Bells, and Forget-me-nots will prove particularly useful. Bulbs We must use the beautiful bulbous flowers largely for autumn-planting, and likewise for pots and vases. They are cheap, easy to manage, brilliant in colour, and in many cases fragrant. We cannot do better than employ them largely for greenhouses, rooms, and outdoor beds. I will give selections of the most important kinds, mean- time, the following are among the most useful for the open air : Aconites (winter) Dog's-Tooth Violets Alstromerias Hyacinths Anemones Irises *Calochorti Liliums Chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow) Lily of the Valley *Crinums Narcissi Crocuses Scillas Crown Imperials Snowdrops Cyclamens Snowflakes Daffodils Tulips * These should have sheltered places. Aconites, Anemones (most, but not the autumn 357 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. bloomers), Chionodoxas, Crocuses, Cyclamens, Dog's- 16-31 Tooth Violets, Lily of the Valley, Scillas, Snowdrops, and Snowflakes are all low growers, and may be used at the front of the borders or beds, or on the rockery. Alstromerias, Crown Imperials, Daffodils, Hyacinths, most Irises, Liliums, Narcissi, and Tulips are bolder plants, suitable for filling beds or for forming groups in borders. For pots and vases we may use principally : Crocuses Liliums Dafifodils Lily of the Valley Freesias Narcissi Hyacinths Tulips Irises Anemones. — I have already referred to the fine strains of Crown Anemones called the Alderborough and the St. Brigid, but I may say here that the roots may be planted in autumn for flowering late in spring. They produce both single and partially double flowers, as far across as breakfast-cups, and with great brilliancy and variety of colour. They are well called Poppy Anemones, for they have all the richness and glow of Poppies. The soil for them should be made thoroughly friable, and the roots covered an inch deep. Other good Anemones are Apennina, Fulgens, and Nemorosa. The Japanese and its varieties are fine for autumn. The Calochortus is a beautiful bulb, but it is courting failure to plant it in a cold, exposed place, or in damp soil. It wants a warm, sunny spot, and light soil. The same remarks apply to the Crinums. The Glory of the Snow is a charming blue flower, pretty in colonies, like Snowdrops and Scillas, and also useful for dotting among bulbs. It should be noted, how- ever, that it flowers earlier than Hyacinths and Tulips. 358 ' ' ' I ■/.v;;;;//- d, ^ iliilSiS A NEW OUTLOOK Crocuses are pretty in colonies, and as they are very cheap there is encouragement to plant them in quantity. They look very nice in broad stretches in grass, particu- larly the Golden Yellow, which is almost as cheerful as a break of sunshine on a winter day. Crown Imperials 2iVQ well adapted for forming effective clumps in herbaceous borders, as they bear their flowers in a cluster on a tall stem, the brilliant blossoms hanging in a circle. Daffodils are a great power. They are the large trumpet-shaped section of the Nar- cissi, They are beauti- ful as colonies in grass, in clumps in herba- ceous borders, in beds, in pots, in vases — everywhere in fact. Bulb-growers tell us that Daffodils are ad- vancing and Hya- cinths declining in public favour. This may be partly due to the greater grace of the Daffodils, and partly to the fact that they increase more readily in British gardens. When they like the soil — and their tastes are pretty catholic— they form offsets freely, which Hyacinths do not do. We have already seen that home-grown Daffodils may be hfted and replanted in July or August. Bought bulbs should be planted in October or November, about double their own depth, in 359 Oct. 16-31 Fig. 83. -Planting Daffodils in Grass. a. Turf turned back, and bulb put in. b. Bulb covered. c. Soil filled in. d. Positions for other bulbs to form clumps. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. deep, fertile soil. When forming clumps, large or small, ^^31 the bulbs which constitute each block may be put nine inches apart. Three strong plants in a triangle produce a better effect than half-a-dozen huddled together. The Chalice-flowered, or Star Narcissi, and the Poeticus are , equally as beautiful as X > C X ^ > > Vs^-K > X y >t X X >t X a d cSj-a a (3 X X a Odd 3 X X X X y > :* > y. X X X > > X the larger Daffodils. The bulbs may be planted beneath turf, and will spear their way through quite readily at the end of winter. With respect to pot culture, the Bunch-flowered(Poly- anthus) Narcissi are most used, but the other classes are equally desirable. Generally three bulbs of the larger kinds may go in a 6-inch pot, and three of the smaller in a 5-inch. The Polyanthus va- rieties are generally potted singly. Three parts of loam, one of leaf mould, and some sand, all well mixed, suit admirably. The pots should be drained with crocks surfaced with flakes of leaf-mould, and the soil pressed firmly under and around the bulbs, but not made quite hard, otherwise the bulbs will be forced out when the roots start 360 Fig. 84. — Planting Bulbs in the Garden. a. Large kinds planted in groups in her- baceous borders. 6. Small kinds planted in groups near the front. c. Small kinds planted in lines round a border. d. Large kinds planted in centre of a border. e,/,^, A, ».— Various depths for planting the smallest and largest kinds of bulbs. A NEW OUTLOOK pushing downward. A few weeks under cocoa-nut fibre refuse or ashes will be an advantage, because root growth will push freely in advance of the tops, and that is desirable. Daffodils and Narcissi are so well adapted to cultj^vation in vases for room decoration that this phase of culture should be specially studied. The receptacles are not porous or drilled, so that no water can escape except by tilting the vases. This fact might be considered a dis- advantage in one sense, as it would be regarded as likely that the material would become sour, but it does not. Peat-moss fibre is used instead of soil, and a little fine shell is mixed with it. The materials are supplied separately in appropriate proportions, and are mixed and watered. The fibre swells considerably when the water is added. The mixture is made fairly firm in the vases, but not quite hard. As with pot bulbs, the tips are left protruding. Plunging is not necessary. The vases ought to be examined once a week, to see that the fibre does not get quite dry. Moisture is essential to success. The following are a few good Narcissi of various classes : Oct. 16-31 Fig. 85.— Bulbs in Vases of Fibre. a. Lumps of charcoal. b. Bulbs. c. Vase filled with fibre and bulbs planted. Yellow Trumpets *Emperor *Golden Spur Glory of Leyden Johnstoni Queen of Spain 361 Oct. 16-31 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Yellow Trumpets Double Chalice-flowered *Obvallaris (Tenby Daffodil) Orange Phoenix Van Waveren's Giant Silver Phoenix White Trumpets Poeticus Cernuus Almira • Madame de Graaff *Ornatus (early) *Pallidus Praecox *Plenus (double) Polyanthus Grand Monarque Soleil d'Or Paper White (early) White and Yellow Trumpets *Empress Mrs. Walter Ware *Horsefieldii Victoria Double Trumpets Capax Plenus *Telamonius Plenus (Van Sion) Single Chalice-flowered *Barri Conspicuus *Sir Watkin Duchess of Westminster Stella Superba * These are cheap varieties that may be planted in quantity. Hyacinths are beautiful bulbs, with a much greater range of brilliant colours than the Daffodil, and with an agreeable perfume, but it cannot be denied that they are somewhat lumpy, and when planted in clumps they have none of the lightsome grace of the Daffodil. They are, of course, extensively bedded-out, especially by the park-gardeners, for the sake of their brilliant colours. Some mix Chalice - flowered Narcissi with them in order to take off the stiffness. Duchess of Westminster is a good Narcissus for the purpose, and Sir Watkin is also used. The soil should be deep, friable, and moist. The Hyacinths may be planted three inches deep, and white Arabis planted between them in order to carpet the soil. On the whole, Hyacinths do their best work 362 A NEW OUTLOOK in pots and glasses. They are delightful plants for decorating greenhouses in spring, as they are so sweet and bright, and it is easy to mix them with other plants of lighter and looser habit, so that there is no stiffness. One bulb may be used in a 5-inch pot, and similar soil and plunging to that recommended for Daffodils is advised. Hyacinths may be grown in vases in peat- moss fibre. The following are a few of the best varieties in the various colours : Oct. 16-31 Red White and Blush Blue Jacques Grandeur k Merveille Electra Lady Derby Isabella Grand Maitre La Victoire La Grandesse King of the Blues Von Schiller La Tour d'Auvergne (double) Yellow Ida Menelik The Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) are delightful little plants for banks and rock beds, growing only four or five inches high. Irises. — This lovely genus should be represented in every garden. No border is complete without a few representatives, whether bulbous or non-bulbous. The English and Spanish are true bulbs, and make delightful clumps. They are also suitable for pot culture. The best plan is to buy a mixture, and set the bulbs in clumps of from three to twelve, according to the size of the border. If it is desired to blend the colours another year, the varieties can be arranged at will. Several charming species may be grown, notably Alata, Bakeriana, Bucharica, Orchioides, Reticulata, Susiana, Sindjarensis, and Gatesi. Reticulata should have a sheltered place, as it is not fully hardy ; it is a 363 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. lovely plant, and thoroughly worthy of care. In all 16-31 cases the bulbs may be planted about double their own depth. The Flag Irises are not bulbous, but they can be procured and planted in autumn the same as the bulbs. They are as hardy as Crabs, and will grow almost any- where. Handsome, full-foliaged plants, with tall, strong stems surmounted by noble flowers of beautiful form and colour, they are among the grandest of all garden flowers. Liliums. — These have had attention already, and only need brief reference now. A good many garden-lovers like to specialise one particular plant, and if the choice falls on the Lilium it will be no matter for surprise or regret. With such noble yet varied plants as Auratum, Candidum, Elegans (also grown under the name of Thunbergianum), Chalcedonicum, Croceum, Specio- sum (also known as Lancifolium), Longiflorum, Mar- tagon, Pardalinum, Brownii, Superbum, Sulphureum, Giganteum, and Umbellatum, with their respective varieties, to choose from, there is no lack of material. Giganteum is the tallest and Auratum the most massive of Lilies. All the species named may be grown in well- drained soil in the garden. Auratum likes an admixture of loam, peat, and sand with the soil. Superbum loves a cool soil and partial shade. The Lily of the Valley is so generally considered as a forcing plant that comparatively few people grow it in the garden. It is hardy, and a British wilding. It loves a cool, shady place, and may be naturalised in gardens where such a site can be found for it. One can buy root- clumps for this purpose, and plant them a few inches apart, with the crowns just beneath the surface, in well- manured soil. Separate crowns are preferred for forcing, because if they are very thick at the upper part — as 364 1 i. &/ V "~ .^^W* .■■■.«' v'l 1 ■Hb 'Ar-<^.J^'9^^^^K9BHPK~'' P'^i^l-v^V-^ -1 ■ J ^•■' '^^^40^ W' fi^ h f- , *■■' .^MI^ y ■ ^ •» wv.^1, ■ , J i 4. -*»«■/" fcs.-:^' , 1 ^ K' ^'M .^^^^^^ .. m n isras^i^soa « ':i.m:- r r: .'^ »._**-.+ - ~~ n A NEW OUTLOOK thick as a lead pencil — each one can be relied on to produce flowers, and this cannot be said of the various crowns which, with roots and soil, make up the bulb- dealer's "clump." If early flowers alone are thought of, the crown may be forced in the light ; but if leaves are wanted with the flowers, early rooting had better be encouraged by potting the crowns and plung- ing them for a few weeks with other bulbs. The pots can be stood in a warm house after- wards. Crowns of Lily of the Valley are now put into cold storage and kept dormant until they are wanted, thus the season is made longer than it used to be. Fortin is a splendid variety. Scillas, or Squills, are low-growing, early-blooming bulbs. The species Sibirica is one of the plants which dealers stock in large quantities, and offer at a very low rate, so that it can be colonised if desired. It is a useful little plant for dotting among bulbs in beds, and its deep blue flowers are very pretty. It blooms with the Snowdrops. Bifolia and its varieties flower a little later. S7towdrops.—Th2ii little favourite, the Snowdrop, is a delightful plant for naturalising, and may be planted in turf, as well as in selected spots in the woodland and 365 Oct. 16-31 Fig. 86.— Forcing Lily of thk Valley Crowns. a. A poor crown. b. A good crown. c. How to force the crowns in pots in a pro- pagating frame. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. wild garden. The plant known as Galatithus Elwesi is ^ really a giant Snowdrop, and Galanthus Plicatus is another interesting species. These special Snowdrops are worthy of positions in the rock garden, where they will make pretty winter patches. The Snowflakes (botanically LeucojU7ns), are as pretty as the Snowdrops, with their white, green-tipped flowers. Vernum, the Spring Snowflake, and Aestivum, the Sum- mer Snowflake, are both spring bloomers, but the former is earlier than the latter. Leucojum Vernum Car- pathicum is a charming winter - flowering Snowflake. Vagneri is another fine variety of Vernum. They are all nice flowers for the rockery, or for patches in beds and borders. Tulips. — The richly-painted Tulip is a noble plant for the spring flower border, making grand breaks of colour. The May-bloomers are majestic plants, with thickets of luxuriant leaves, stems nearly as strong as those of Flag Irises, and huge, globular flowers of splendid colour and substance. The Tulip specialist can have some of his favourites in bloom throughout the whole of spring, for the earliest of the dwarf Dutch varieties begin flowering about Easter, and the Darwin and Cottage varieties last till June. There are, too, several pretty species, notably Clusiana, Gesneriana and its varie- ties (magnificent plants these), Leichtlini, Greigi, Linifolia, Macrospeila, Retroflexa, Sylvestris, and Vitellina. They are all spring bloomers, but the majority flower in May. The Parrot Tulips are a singular class, with their beak- like petals. The " Florist's " Tulips are a dying class ; they are handsome flowers, with petals of great sub- stance and beautiful colour-markings, but they are not, as a whole, suitable for giving beautiful blocks of colour, and are scarce and dear. The early Dutch Tulips are 366 The Summer Snowfi.ake, Leucojum aestivum, a charming bulb TO PLANT IN AU 1 UMN. A NEW OUTLOOK the most useful for pots, and they also come in well for Oct. beds. The May-bloomers (Darwin and Cottage) are the 16-31 finest class for borders. The largest of the species, such as Gesneriana, are splendid for groups, but the smaller are best in the rock garden. The Parrots make pretty beds and border groups. The Hyacinth and Daffodil compost will suit pot Tulips perfectly well, and three bulbs per 5-inch pot will be a proper allowance. They should be plunged for a few weeks after potting, like Hyacinths. Early Dutch Tulips are also well adapted for cultivation in vases, like Daffodils, peat-moss fibre and shell being used in place of soil. When grown as garden plants they ought to be put in deep, fertile, friable soil, and covered about three inches deep. If possible, the groups should consist of at least six bulbs each, set nine inches apart. The following are good varieties in the various sections : Early Dwarf Single Chrysolora, yellow Ophir d'Or, yellow Cottage Maid, pink Pink Beauty, pink and white Due van Thol, various colours Proserpine, rose, early Joost van Vondel, crimson and Thomas Moore, orange white Vermilion Brilliant, scarlet Keizer's Kroon, red and yellow White Swan, white Le Reve, pink Early Double Blanche Hative, white Salvator Rosa, rose Imperator Rubrorum, scarlet Tournesol, red and yellow La Candeur, white „ yellow Tall Late Single Billietiana Sunset, red and Kern, amethyst yellow La Merveille, rose, fragrant Clara Butt, pink Mrs. Moon, yellow Dainty Maid, scarlet and white Mrs. Walter Ware, orange Farncombe Sanders, red Picotee, rose, white margin Gesneriana Spathulata, scarlet Pride of Haarlem, crimson Inglescombe Scarlet Sultan, marone THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. Other bulbs and tubers worth growing are AlHum 16-31 Neapolitanum (garden), Amaryllis Belladonna (Bella- donna Lily — garden), Colchicum (Meadow Saffron — garden), Dog's - Tooth Violets (rockery), Fritillaria (Snake's-head Lily — garden), Galtonia or Hyacinthus Candicans (garden). Gladiolus Colvellei Alba (pots) and G. Brenchle3'ensis (garden), Lxias (pots), Lachenalias (hanging baskets), Ornithogalum (Star of Bethelem — garden), Ranunculuses (garden — plant in February), Sparaxis (pots), Sternbergia (garden or rockery), Trigridias (garden), Wood Lily (Trillium — shady spot in the garden), Tropoeolums (garden), and Tuberoses (pots). Freesias are among the most delightful of bulbs on account of their delicious fragrance, and because they open their pretty flowers in winter ; they have been dealt with pretty fully already. Montbretias are not true bulbs, but are often included in catalogues, and may be procured and planted in October. They have graceful leaves, and produce loose spikes of flowers ranging in colour from yellow to orange and scarlet. Growing in almost any soil, brilliant in colour, and lasting long in bloom, they are among the most valuable of hardy plants. Bulbs for Window Boxes. — The window boxes, like the flower beds, need a change in autumn, the summer and autumn-flowering plants being removed, and fresh ones substituted for spring flowering. The opportunity should be taken of overhauling the boxes thoroughly. They should be emptied, repainted if necessary, supplied with new drainage material, and fresh loam and leaf- mould added to a portion of the old soil before refilling. Bulbs are beautiful spring plants, but as the boxes are bare most of the winter if nothing else is employed, a few 368 A CLUMP 01-- wHiiE Tulips. A NEW OUTLOOK Wallflowers and coloured Primroses and Polyanthuses Oct. can be put in also, the last two near the front. Guard I0~3I against overcrowding by calculating the space which the bulbs will require ultimately when putting in the growing plants. Sweet Peas. — The plan of sowing Sweet Peas in autumn, out of doors, is an old one ; and it has the recommendation that, if the plants come safely through the winter, they bloom earlier than spring-sown plants — that is, unless the latter are pushed on under glass. It is not wise to risk seed of expensive varieties in the ground in October ; and if such sorts are wanted to flower early they had better be sown under glass ; but cheaper sorts and mixtures may be tried if desired. The soil should be made quite friable, and the seed covered three inches deep. Fruit Gathering and Storing Fruit. — In view of the pro- bability of sharp frost coming soon, it is desirable to gather any outdoor fruit that is still on the trees. Mid-season and late Apples like Blenheim, Lane's Prince Albert, Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder, Cox's Orange Pippin, Wellington, Sturmer, and Rosemary Russet (to name a few of both culinary and dessert varieties) are particularly valuable, and should be gathered and stored carefully. A cool, clean, sweet-smelling store is a great advantage, as it insures the fruit being quite free from mustiness. It is for this reason that large growers erect a special building, with double walls and thatched roof, for storing fruit. They keep it on plain open stages, using no straw or hay. Small growers cannot do this, of course, as the quantity of fruit which they grow does not justify the expense. The best of the 369 3 A THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. fruit may be stored in large clean earthenware jars after 10-31 it has stood a few days to " sweat," and the jars may be sealed up and put away in a cool place. Large bulks may also be stored in barrels, which can be closed and covered with straw ; but great care must be taken to avoid putting any unsound fruits in, or others will become contaminated, and rot. Late Pears, such as Glou Morgeau, Josephine de Malines, Easter Beurr6, Olivier de Serres, and Winter Nelis must be gathered also, although they are still quite hard. Some pressure may be required to remove them, but it need not be applied so roughly as to injure the spurs. They may be laid on a clean shelf in a sweet, well-ventilated place. The cooler it is, provided that it is frost-proof, the better, as then the fruit will ripen by degrees, and a suitable succession can be maintained. This desideratum can be expedited by selecting a few of the most forward fruits from time to time, and putting them in a warm house. Grapes. — Where Grapes are still hanging on the Vines, it will be well to look over the bunches in order to make sure that there are no decaying berries ; if there are, they should be removed at once, or they will contaminate others. The Grapes keep best in a dry atmosphere, and it will be impossible to maintain this now and onwards without warming the hot-water pipes, as the external air is naturally moist. It is not desirable to keep the venti- lators closed, except in muggy weather. If there has been any trouble from "shanking" — that is, shrivelling of the footstalks of the berries — and it is certain that overcropping and underfeeding are not the cause, the soil may be removed from the border where the foliage has fallen or is mature, and any deep-striking roots cut through. The upper part of the roots should be raised into the surface soil, and fresh loam put round them. ^70 A NEW OUTLOOK Pot Fruit Trees. — The present is a good time to repot all kinds of fruit trees that are grown in large pots. What is termed " orchard-house culture " — that is, growing trees in pots and standing them in a large, cool, airy house, when the buds begin to expand — is well worth the attention of those who can afford to practise it. The house is not wanted for the trees the whole of the year — only for a few weeks, as a matter of fact. At other periods. Tomatoes, Chrysanthemums, and other import- ant crops can be grown in it. The system is somewhat more expensive than growing fruit in the open air, as, in addition to the house, a part of the cost of which would have to be charged to the fruit, large pots have to be provided. Ten- and twelve- inch are suitable. Trees could be bought now, and the pots plunged in ashes in a sheltered place for the winter, or in spring. In repotting existing trees, the lower part of the ball of soil and roots, the sides, and the top can all be reduced to the extent of a couple of inches with- out fear of injury, even if some roots are destroyed in the process. The pots should be cleaned, re-drained, and fresh loamy soil packed well in round the old ball. The trees will be all right in the open during the winter, but if they comprise some Peaches and Nectarines, these should have the most shelter, as they are more likely to be injured by hard frost than Apples, Pears, Cherries, and Plums. Strawberry Beds, — Beds of Strawberries would last in Oct. 16-31 Fig. 87.— Repotting Fkuit Trees. a. Space left for future top-dressing b. Good drainage. c. New compost. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Oct. bearing much longer than they do, if they were gone Io~3I over regularly at this time of year, all weeds and runners removed, the soil loosened, and a coat of manure laid between the rows. Vegetables Broad Beans. — A row may be sown at the end of the month in rich, friable soil, the seed being covered three inches deep. Broccoli. — When the autumn is mild. Broccoli grows too late and too strongly, and is often severely injured by winter frost. It is desirable that growth should be checked now, and if Nature does not do it the ground had better be chopped along each row a few inches from the stem in order to sever some of the roots. Cauliflowers. — The autumn varieties will now be hearting. Young hearts can be protected in frosty weather by breaking one of the leaves over them. Peas. — A sowing of Peas may be made similarly to dwarf Beans. The work with Cabbages, Celery, Leeks, and Tomatoes may be continued as in the early half of the month. Oct. The Garden in October— A RfisuMfi R^sumd October is in part a month of clearing up for the past season, and in part of preparation for the following one. Chrysanthemums which are grown in pots have to be taken under cover for flowering. Tuberous Begonias, Cannas, Gladioli, and Dahlias are taken up when they have completed their work, and stored for the winter. Young herbaceous Calceolarias and Cinerarias should 372 Rdsurad A NEW OUTLOOK be transferred from frames to greenhouses. Bedding Oct. Calceolarias, Pansies, Pentstemons, Snapdragons, and Violas can be propagated by means of cuttings. Young Zonal Geraniums for bedding should be put into boxes and housed for the winter. If winter Violets are wanted, a frame can be made up and planted. An important item of October work is clearing exhausted flower beds, and replanting them with bulbs of various kinds, Wallflowers, Sweet Williams, Primroses, Canterbury Bells, Forget-me-nots, and other plants. Hyacinths, Tulips, Lilies, and other bulbs may be planted, potted, and put in glasses and vases. Window- boxes may be overhauled and replanted for spring. Sweet Peas may be sown. There will not be a great deal to do in the fruit garden. Early Vines may be pruned. Fruit trees that have not blossomed on account of luxuriant growth may be root- pruned. Pot fruit trees may be repotted. Strawberries for forcing may be laid on their sides, and beds of Strawberries cleared and manured. Apples and Pears may be gathered and stored. In the kitchen garden. Beetroot, Carrots, and Potatoes may be lifted and stored. Cabbages may be planted. Celery and Leeks may be earthed. Tomatoes should be ripened off. Broad Beans and Peas may be sown. Broccoli that is growing very strongly may be checked by chopping round with a spade. 373 CHAPTER XI CHRYSANTHEMUM TIME Nov. November is the month of months for the Chrysan- themum lover. It brings the crown of his year's work in the form of a lovely display of flowers in his con- servatory, it brings the exhibitions, it brings the interest of studying the season's debutantes, and it brings that comparison of results and interchange of views with other growers which is so pleasant and helpful. The Golden Flower is at its best, and its best is something that robs November of all its accepted terrors — wet, fog, frost, and murk. The veriest misanthrope loses his gloom when he sees a collection of Chrysanthemums. The warming, inspiring influences of the flower flow all over him, and show him that there is still something left in life. The dyspeptic no longer groans because he is forbidden to take lobster salad at midnight; he is content to do without it, for he sees that there is something better. Chrysanthemum time is a period of warmth, glow, and cheerfulness. Mark Tapley would have have had a bad time in these Chrysanthemum days, because his best efforts to avoid being jolly would have been unavailing, and he would have been blithe and hilarious in spite of himself. November is more than a mere Chrysanthemum month, however. It is the great planting month of the year. It is that happy month when we spend joyous 374 CHRYSANTHEMUM TIME evenings over Rose, fruit, tree, shrub, and bulb catalogues Nov. — when we make out orders and alter them, and send them off and cancel them, and recollect a week after we posted them (a week in which we have got very angry with the florist because he has not acknowledged them) that we forgot to put our name and address on ; a month when we worry all our friends, and the nurserymen, and the editors of gardening papers, and the secretaries of horticultural societies, for opinions about varieties. It is the month when we plan shrubberies, and Rose gardens, and tennis lawns, and all kinds of fresh features. Our gardening enthusiasm of the past year is still strong upon us, and we know that now or never ' is the time to act. Truly in these days, when all people are gardeners, November has become a changed month. Once the month which people dreaded most as the sum of all that was gloomy, dispiriting, and oppressive, it has become a month that is looked forward to eagerly. NOVEMBER— First and Second Weeks Nov. Flowers ~ ^ Arum Lilies. — If beautiful white spathes are wanted at Christmas, the plants ought to have a minimum temperature of 55°, and abundance of water. They will live in a low temperature, and retain their freshness (although frost will tarnish them), but they will not bloom. Biennials and Perennials. — All the biennials and perennials which were raised from seed in early summer may be planted in beds and borders in November. Dahlias will now be over, probably, and make room for fresh plants. 375 THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Nov. Bulbs of all kinds may be planted in beds, potted, put •"■"^S into vases and glasses, and arranged with Wallflowers and Primroses in window boxes, in accordance with the hints given in the last chapter. It is desirable to dispose of all the bulbs this month, as many begin to grow in the store, and that is not desirable. Bulbs that were potted early, such as Roman Hyacinths, Paper White Narcissi, and Van Thol Tulips, and which were plunged, will probably have made abundance of roots by now, and be growing at the tip. They should be brought into the light, put in a warm house, watered, and so brought into bloom. Chrysanthemums. — There should be great pleasure in the Chrysanthemums now. The house in which the plants are flowering will be visited frequently. With skilful management, it can be kept beautiful for a long time. By keeping heat in the pipes and ventilating in fine weather, a free circulation of warm, dry air is main- tained, and that has a great influence on the plants, and through them on the flowers. Watering will be required when the soil gets dry, but not necessarily every day. Care should be taken to avoid spilling water about, especially late in the day, as it leads to damp. Fuchsias. — These plants will have gone out of bloom, and become dingy. There is no advantage in trying to keep them growing, but rather the reverse, and the best plan is to put them together in an out-of-the-way corner, free from drip, and dry them off for the winter. As long as they are safe from frost they will be all right until spring. Zonal Geraniums. — We have already seen how young plants for the garden should be dealt with. As regards the old plants from the beds, it is hardly worth while to preserve them if there is an adequate supply of young 376 The handsome hardy border plant Stenactis speciosa. CHRYSANTHEMUM TIME ones, but if desired they can be kept. A simple plan is to crop the branches and roots to mere stumps, and hang the plants in bundles in a cool, dry, frost-proof outhouse, store, or cellar. Pot plants raised from cuttings in spring, repotted, pinched as required, and disbudded in summer, may now come into bloom, and will greatly enliven the stages of the greenhouse. With care in watering, and picking off fading trusses, they will remain in bloom for a long time. Herbaceous Borders. — There are not likely to be many flowers, although in a mild autumn Stenactis speciosa, a few late Michaelmas Daisies, Chrysanthemums, and Dahlias may still be in beauty. As long as a border remains fresh it may be left, because it gives something cheerful to the eye, and the shock of loss and blankness which fol- lows a clearance should be deferred as long as possible. But when the foliage be- comes discoloured and the stems leafless, the plants should be cut down to the ground, the prunings taken to the rubbish corner, and burnt. The border can be dug then, such fresh plant- ing as is desired carried out (see earlier chapter for notes on suitable plants and attractive colour schemes), bulbs put in, and all left neat for the winter. 377 Nov. 1-15 Fig. 88.— Hyacinths in Glasses (p. 378). a. Bulb just touching water. b. Lumps of charcoal. c. Bulb growing. d. Spike showing. e. Roots growing in the water. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Nov. Hyacinths in Glasses, — The culture of Hyacinths in ^~^5 vases of peat-moss fibre has tended to reduce the use of these popular spring-flowering plants in glasses of water. While those who intend to buy either vases or glasses might well decide in favour of the former, it is certain that those who have glasses in store will want to make use of them. Smooth, even bulbs should be chosen, and water put in nearly to the base. One or two pieces of charcoal will help to keep it pure. The glasses ought to stand in a dark place until the bulbs have rooted freely. Roses. — There is much work in the Rose garden in November. While there should be no such thing as a general pruning, it is desirable to shorten any long, late- formed, sappy shoots on open-ground plants. The growths of pillar and wall Roses should be tied in, but old canes that are not needed for future flowering may be pruned back to a young shoot, or even cut out altogether. The question of protection is important in cold places. So far as dwarf plants are concerned, it is easily provided by drawing the soil up in a mound above the lower buds, and leaving it there till early spring, when growth from the base of the plants can be rehed on. This being so, it is not of great consequence if some injury is done to the upper parts. The side shoots of standards often get badly nipped. If the somewhat unsightly appearance is not objected to, some bracken may be laid among the branches, and a piece of canvas tied round the head, in the case of special varieties. A wall plant can be pro- tected by nailing a mat over it, but wall Roses do not often suffer much. Most of the planting of the year is done in November. The ground ought to be prepared thoroughly by digging it two feet deep and working in a liberal dressing of good yard manure. The Roses should be planted firmly, and the standards staked. The plants 3/8 CHRYSANTHEMUM TIME may be two feet apart, except in the case of very vigorous varieties, which may be two and a half feet. The nature of the sort can be judged by the length and thickness of the wood. Where pillars, arches, or per- golas are being put in for Roses or other climbers, the uprights should be embedded two and a half feet to insure security, and the part to be covered with soil soaked in hot tar or creosote. Larch poles with the lower part stripped of the bark are lasting if treated as advised. Poles are apt to rot just at the surface of the soil ; this is because the preservative coating is not brought high enough. Those who want to bud their own standard stocks in summer should procure standard Dog Roses, which are dug from the hedgerows in November, and plant them a foot apart in rows a yard asunder. Some good varieties were named in a previous chapter. Trees and Shrubs ^=:i^='!$*^^^^^*^^5r^i,V November is a good month for planting nearly all kinds of trees and shrubs. The soil may be prepared in the same way as for Roses, and the standard trees staked thoroughly in order to keep them quite steady. In a well-planted shrubbery there is a due proportion of both deciduous (leaf-losing) and evergreen shrubs. 379 Nov. 1-15 Fig. 89.— Planting Shrubs. a. The hole made large enough for the roots to be spread evenly. b. The stem, which must not be buried. THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK Nov. 1-15 The former appear to suffer a disadvantage as compared with the latter, because they are bare in the winter, but it must be remembered that their early spring and autumn tints are beautiful, and many of them bear attractive flowers. The following are good kinds : Acer Negundo Variegata •Amelanchier Azalea Mollis, in variety Buddleia Globosa „ Variabilis Chimonanthus Fragrans Cornus (Dogwood) Crataegus Lelandii *Cydonia (Pyrus) Maulei Cytisus Andreanus •Daphne Mezereum Deutzia Crenata Flore Pleno Diervilla (Weigela), in variety *Forsythia Suspensa Genistas (Broom), in variety Hamamelis Mollis Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Hydrangeas •Hypericum (St. John's Wort) Deciduous Shrubs *Kerria Japonica Flore Pleno •Laburnums Ligustrum (Privet) •Lilacs (Charles X., &c.) Magnolia Stellata •Philadelphus (Mock Orange) Pyrus {See Cydonia) •Rhus Cotinus „ Typhina •Ribes Sanguineum (Currant) „ Aureum Robinia Hispida Inermis „ Neo-Mexicana Rubus Deliciosus Spiraea Douglasi „ Arguta Tamarisk •Viburnum Plicatum •Weigelas, in variety Andromeda Floribunda •Arbutus Unedo Arundinarias, Bambusas, and Phyllostachys (Bamboo) •Aucubas, in variety •Berberis Darwinii Buxus (Box) Coronilla Glauca Cotoneaster Microphylla Cupressus Lawsoniana, and varieties Daboecia Polifolia Evergreen Shrubs Ericas (Heaths) Carnea, Medi- terranea, &c. Euonymuses •Hollies, in variety •Ivies, in variety Junipers, in variety Kalmia Glauca Lavender •Laurels Ledum •Ligustrum (Privet) •Magnolia Grandiflora 380 m ft ^KKAK^^^s^^y^NHS^M^ /AT- li^ ■jfi^a^^s^m bh^^k^w^!I^^'^H^jm3Hk[ m MmM 1 '^■' -'^y-.^ '1^*^; ^ ■.■\.T^^.