ylvania Library partment University of Penns Circulation De book as der to avoid a fine t date stamped below. soon as you have Please return this finished with it. In or it must be returned by the lates M-7l 9 /W E, L, 2.97 C ART. V.-—Topographg of Nineveh, illustrative of the Maps of the chief cities of Assgria ; and the general Geography of the country intermediate between the Tigris and the Upper Zal). By FELIX JONES, Commander Indian Navy, and Surve3/or in Mesopotamia. ’ [Read 2nd July, 18.53.] WITHIN the last decade of years, the museums'of France and England have been enriched by numerous monuments of Assyrian art, that clearly show the soil from which they w ere obtained was peopled by a race who, to its warlike habits, added many of the refinements of civilized life. The researches of Botta and Layaid—so far as lapi- dary tablets are capable of conveying the economy of a nation—have familiarised us in some measure with the public rites and ceremonies of the Assyrians, as well as given an insight into their more domestic concerns; and the pens of these travellers have further elucidated the subject in a manner of which the praise of the public is guarantee to the ability dis splayed, while the monuments themselves, as patents of their energy, remain in the capitals of Europe, until, in the course of time, they share in the fate of their Assyiian predecessors. Pro- foundly indifferent, however, to Such an event, our savans are .in the mean time labouring to unravel the mystic characters engraved on the records so lately revealed to us ,' and such is the progress made, that we may shortly expect to be as cognizant of the deeds of the “ stout— hearted king and the glory of his high looks,”1 as we are conversant with the celebrities of Greece or Rome. The only desideratum wanting, it appears, to complete the picture of Assyria, is a faithful sketch of her aspect in desolation, when she is “ empty, and void, and waste; when flocks lie down in the midst of her 3 and when her rivers are opened, and her palace is dissolved.”2 This we have endea—' 7 voured to supply in the three maps of the vestiges of Assyria, made from actual survey of the spot. Topography, however, is a dry subject, and we enter upon it with diflidence and reluctance. The third sheet of the vestiges of Assyria is intended to convey a general idea of the region where flourished the principal cities of the Ninevite kings. On it, the relative positions of N 1mrud and Khor- sabad will be readily seen, with those of Nineveh and other remains ‘ ’ more recently recognised as belonging to the same period. We may infer that in its local features the region cannot have materially changed since the era in which Nimrod, Asshur, or Ninus, migrated ’ Isaiah x. 12. ’3 .Nahum 1i. 6, 10; Zephaniah ii. 14. {lease Y2 298 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. from the plains of Babylonia1 to found a dynasty and a kingdom beyond the Zzib. The great mountain ranges of the Taurus to the north and Zagros to the north-east and east, in this region sink almost imperceptibly into plains traversed at certain intervals only by slight ridges which, having a direction parallel to the sides of the greater chains, just rise in lines above the soil or crop forth only in undu- lations2 of varying height, from VV.N.VV. to E.S.E. Eastward of the modern Mosul these ridges are mostly depressed and broken, offering outlets to the pent-up mountain streams which unite to form the Upper Zéb, as well as to give passage to other tributaries, principally Winter torrents and minor rivulets, that issue from the Jebel Maklfib, of which the Khésrsu or Khorsabad stream is the chief. During winter rains this becomes an impassable barrier, while at other periods it is fordable in most places. It falls into the Tigris, in latitude 36° 21’ N., just opposite the modern Mosul; and the Zéb debouches in the same way, in the parallel of 35° 59’ N., enclosing between its broad shingly bed and the Khésr stream, a highly arable plain, diversified, here and there only, by gentle undulations and slopes. This plain, a somewhat irregular parallelogram in shape, and in extent twenty-five miles by fifteen, contains most of the Assyrian sites we are yet acquainted with. It has a gradual declination westward from the basis of the inci- pient Mountain range of the J ebel M ukli’ib and hill of Ayn-es-safra, which are the most prominent natural features in the Nineveh landscape. These, skirted on the NE. and E. by the Gomel or Ghazir-su, as bya ditch, defended the tract sufficiently on these sides, while the broad and rapid currents of the Tigris and the Zéb protected it on the W., S., and SE. The Khosr rivulet on the N. and N.\V., insignificant as it naturally is, was rendered too a strong defensive barrier from invasion on these points, by artificial works, which we shall speak more fully of in a subsequent page. It was thus an admirably selected position. Undulation and vale, ridge and plain, alike capable of tillage throughout the tract, offered 1 \Ve use these names as the generally recognized appellations of the founders of the Assyrian monarchy. The angums of Onkelos and Jerusalem supply, however, other readings for some of the proper names found in our version of Genesis X. 2 The Hamrfn, Kara. Husseyn, and Kara Chokh ridges, are curious instances of these gradations from mountain to plain, leaving narrow but extended steppes . of very rich land intermediate between them ; we shall notice them more in detail ina future paper. The first bounds Mesopotamia to the N.E., the latter termi- nates in the Sinjar group, dipping below the country west of Arbél, where the Tigris and the Zéb courseimpetuously over its depressions. The undulations are left white in Sheet III. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 299 'a. sufficiency of pasture at most seasons. ‘ Crossed too as it is by the beds of many watercourses, and generously visited with dews and Winter rains, it was then, doubtless, as now, a most fertile region. In the spring and autumn, when covered with verdure and wild flowers, it must have offered such teeming plenty with little labour, that man, naturally desirous of ease, could not fail to appreciate its bounties. The climate too, if unchanged since that period, was favor~ ablepto his feelings in the primitive state of his existence, and the summer heats, tempered by breezes from the adjacent mountains, were doubtless deemed cool in comparison with the torrid blasts he had experienced in the plains of Shinar,’ while the rigour of winter in the rugged country beyond him was equally unheeded and unfelt in the genial atmosphere of the steppes where he had determined on fixing his future abode. Here then we may presume Nimrod, Asshur,1 or Ninus, first estab- lished himself, and planned the erection of those cities and edifices, the monuments of which, after thirty-five centuries of time, have been abstracted piecemeal by the stranger, and borne off as the trophies of a nation then unheard-of and void. We shall notice these cities more in detail when the first and second sheets of the vestiges of Assyria come under observation. In our remarks upon them we shall endea— vour to maintain the metropolis in the position where it is evident it was first designed, notwithstanding some pains have been taken to transfer it to other sites ; and, at the same time, shall attempt to do aWay with the prevailing idea as to its vast magnitude, which, founded on the gross description of Ctesias, quoted by Diodorus Siculus,2 has led many intelligent men astray in search of the stupendous walls wherewith that author begirts Nineveh. Even the mountain range of the Jebel Makli’ib, pronounced as “calcareous mountains” by a , modern writer in one page, is made on the weakest authority “the entire work of man ” in another; and, as such, is sought to be identified with the imaginary ample walls of the ancient city.3 This range rises perhaps to 2000 feet above the level of the Tigris, and, as we have before remarked, is the chief natural feature in the Nineveh 1 This name would seem to imply that of the country, not that of the founder of the Assyrian monarchy, if the readings of the VClialdee Targums are to be adopted ; and certainly the sense of the passage in Genesis x. is not done violence to, but on the contrary, is maintained by these interpretations. .2 Ctesias’ fragments would appear to be loose in every respect. Plutarch, »Aulus Gellius, Aristotle, and Joseph Scaliger, it would seem, estimate his cha- racter for veracity at a. very low scale. 3 “Nineveh and its Palaces,” in the Illustrated London Library, pp; 83, 94, 97. 300 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. landscape; we sought in vain for vestiges of such stupendous struc- tures as Ctesias ascribes to Nineveh, and which indeed could not have existed on a soil such as this Without leaving traces of their presence to a considerable extent.1 The proof of this is in the remnants before us of minor structures of the period. Independent of its connection with scriptural events, and with the themes which excited the inspiration of the prophets, the tract repre- sented on Sheet III. has high claims to the consideration of the scholar and antiquarian. Here are the mines which connect the present civi— lization with the history of the past 3 for all that we know of the early world, and all future knowledge that we are likely to derive, will doubtless be traced to the fortuitous occurrences recently enacted on this soil. Nineveh and its celebrities, as mere names, were just indeed discernible in the wake of subsequent historical events, when the spades of Botta and Layard revealed them distinctly to our View, and this too at an appropriate time, when enlightened minds were prepared for their study by long application to other records in a cognate cha— racter, though in a different tongue. To us, indeed, this concurrence of physical and mental energy appears more than a mere coincidence, and what may yet be disclosed to us from the interpretation of the records still entombed in the 350 square miles of the district, we are at a loss even to conjecture; for while fresh tablets are being exposed as the work of excavation proceeds, Cuneiform studies have acquired a stability which. cannot but lead to success. Its claim to our regard, however, is not solely confined to the interesting discoveries but lately made by our travellers,- the scene before us was the theatre of other renowned actions long subsequent to the struggles between the Assyrian and the Mede. Even when their names were as a proverb of the past, and England’s fame lay buried in the future, this region between the Tigris and the Zéb shone as the stage on which sovereign actors contended for the empire of the world. pDarius here resigned his sceptre to the Macedonian ; and Persia, after acquiring a second ascendancy, again fell before the victorious legions of Hera~ clius at the fatal battle of Nineveh. Mirwan, the last khalif of the line of 0mmiyeh, relinquished too his sovereignty and his life on the same field, and from this reverse a new dynasty arose, that of the Abbass1yin, whose power, emanating from Baghdad, governed the world for the long space of 520 years. The banks of the Khézir, the 1 Layard’s testimony is conclusive of the exaggeration of the ancient writers. See Nineveh and its Remains, vol. ii. chap. 2, p. 27 5 ; and N iebuhr, in his Lectures, discards altogether the evidence of. Ctesias, when considering the historical value of ancient chronicles.‘ ToroeRAPHY or NINEVEH. ' 301 Tigris, and the Zéb have indeed witnessed much bloodshed, and if thus consecrated to posterity, they are no less sacred as the early seats of Christianity, for the faith as taught by the first missionaries is not yet Wholly obliterated, though much distorted by\ immoralities and schisms. Five distinct creeds still flourish on the tract before us; in the Shebek and Yezidi faiths, we think, the first - Chaldaic worship, terminating in subsequent Magian forms, may be traced; and the transplanted Israelite wanders, like the captives of Tobit’s time, equally contemned and separate from his fellow man ; while. the Christian sects—perhaps from the persecution they have I suffered—are distinguished as the most ignorant and boorish of all. ' The schools and colleges, hoth Mahcmedan and Christian, once so - celebrated here, remain only as mere names, while the distinguished works which emanated from the spot are either lost, swept off, or destroyed. In fact, in whatever way we contemplate the country presented to us, a vivid interest is excited, pregnant with heroic examples and moral lessons, adapted alike to the statesman, the soldier, and the priest. But we'must quit the instructive pages of Assemannus and lay aside reflections suggested by the incidents related in the Anabasis and in writings of a subsequent age 3 our task is topographical description, and a laborious one we find it, for em— bracing, as it should do, every subordinate feature, with fatiguing precision, w'evcannot hope to escape the charge of prolixity, as well as that of venturing beyond our depth in endeavouring to relieve the monotony of geographical narrative. As the nucleus of Assyrian dominion, we may denominate the territory shewn in Sheet III. as Central Assyria, for hence emanated ,the large possessions afterwards included in the several names of Athi’ir, Asshfir, Ati’lr, or Assyria. It was known also to the older historians and geographers as a part of Adiabene (’A5La/37imy), the name of the province watered by the Zéb, or, as it was sometimes written Dial), or Adiab, though strictly speaking, perhaps, its proper appellation as a ”mere district of Adiabene was, as written by Strabo, Calachene 5 the term having reference to the period when N imri’id, or the Calah of Genesis, flourished as the chief city after the destruction \ of the original Nineoek. Nimrl’id, indeed, is still occasionally called Ati’ir or Assyria, and was known as such to the Arab geographers,1 We have pointed out in the paper on that place the probable manner in which these names become attached to Nimrfid, from, as we believe, its being the latest inhabited city of the region, which in the Cunie— form tablets is represented by 1‘ >1»? (E, meaning, if we 1 see Yam, in his majifia alBuldan, 302 TOPOGRAPHY or NINE‘VEH. rightly understand Colonel Rawlinson, “the low country Ati’ir or Asshur.” These characters would thus represent generic terms for the land, in the same way as Shinar represented Babylonia 3 and the interpretations of the Chaldee Targums of Onkelos and Jerusalem would then agree with the sense of the passage in Genesis X. 11, of “ Nimrod going forth to build Nineveh,” instead of Asshur the son of Shem, as read in our version of the Bible. Many learned men, among whom are some rigid divines, we believe, prefer this reading as agree- ing with the context; and a passage in Micah, quoted by the author of the article on Assyria in Kitto’s Cyclopaedia, confirms this view of the subject. It runs thus, “ They shall devour the land of Asshur with the sword, even the land of Nimrod,” &c., designating the country as well as the accepted name of the founder of its primitive edifices. That such was a custom of ancient times, and pertains to this day in the East, is evident from the names being new indifferently used by the Arabs, who not only also characterize Egypt by its title of “Misr,” but identify it equally as well by that of “ Ardh Pharaoun,” or the “ land of the Pharaohs.” The conformation of the land and the positions of its chief edifices will be best seen from the map. We have no wish to recapitulate, but we must here express an opinion, contrary to those who have speculated on the exact form and dimensions of Nineveh, that it had no defined limit on the tract before us, such as Layard conceives it to have occupied in the area within the angles formed by the metropolis and Khorsabad at one, and Keremlis and N imri’id at the other, extremity of the line.1 On the contrary, we are disposed to view the Assyrian cities as placed where locally best suited to defence and convenience within the natural boundaries we have specified, without regard to any regularity on a grand scale, though the towns themselves, especially Nimrud and Khorsabad, in their order of alignment bear evidence of much care in construction, as does the capital also, for the superior ends it was designed for. Led away by the gross relations of Ctesias, with reference to the size of the capital, and by its inferred magnitude from the pages of Jonah, the writer of Nineveh and its Palaces, a wOrk published for the Illustrated London Library, in his second chapter has indulged too in an erroneous theoretical view based on the serious mistake of another sort which we have pointed out before,2 and which ‘ When this was written we understood Layard to mean these positions as forming the angles of a, connected line of circumvallation around Nineveh ; but we have since hadreason to believe we have misinterpreted the sense of his remarks on this head, and that his conjectures on this subject agree with our own in a general view. 9 In the opening pages of this paper. The work alluded to (pp. 83, 94, 97) is '5 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 303 indeed negatives his arguments, otherwise founded, as far as we can see, upon no system at all. We are sorry to expose these errors, but silence would only serve to perpetuate an hypothesis which must strangely mislead instead of instruct. Much labour,indeed, has been lost in searching for walls where it, is evident none existed, and the most zealous missionary—were he to denounce aloud in the public streets, as Jonah is presumed. to have done—would find an ample three days' employment in the capital and its immediate suburbs 3 or, were his mission but a simple visitation to the four principal seats in the Nineveh district, a modern curate with no other incitement than his small pittance would easily perform the journey and his task in the specified period ,' for the entire circuit is but 61% English miles. We incline to the belief that Jonah’s enumeration of its inhabitants has reference to the whole of the tract in our map, which includes arspace of 350 square miles, and might accommodate a proportionate popula— tion of six or seven hundred thousand souls, including their abundance ‘of cattle, with much ease.1 In the opening page we have characterized the incipient mountain ranges of the Jebel Maklub and hill of Mar Daniel or Ayn-es—Safra as the chief natural features in the'scene. The attention of the traveller is soon, however, drawn from these to observe and speculate upon the numerous tumuli which cover the plain in every direction around. These constitute the artificial points of the Nineveh landscape, and are represented in our map by dark shaded circles, such as distinguish conical peaks in chartography. These are all the undoubted work of the human race, but whether of the Assyrian period, or of a Parthian era, there are at present some doubts. Some refer them to the latter, principally from the absence of anything tangible to theorize upon in the more regular tumuli, most of which, as we at present see them, are mere mounds of earth elevated in different places to heights varying from ‘20 to 80 feet above the plain. Others, such as the great pyramid at Nimrfid, are found to be regular structures of sun-dried brick} observable only when the interior of the mound is arrived at, the action of the elements on the outside having, in the course of ' time, reduced the material to the consistency and form of its original earth. The principal ones have square platforms, at present but little raised above the plain, though evidently connected in some way with from the pen of M, Bonomi, and though there is doubtless some good collated in- formation in it, it cannot be generally quoted as a guide for the attainment of Assyrian knowledge. 1 More will be said on this hitherto bewildering subject in the detailed notice of Nineveh to elucidate sheet II. of the vestiges of Assyria. 304 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. the higher structures adjoining them.‘ Though now rounded and for the most part preserving a beautiful conical outline, we are disposed to think most of them were originally of a pyramidal form, the gradual crumbling of the apex and falling débris having served to obliterate the angles in thelapse of time. There can be no question, we think, of their purpose being other than for religious Observances; as, from the earliest times, “high places” were deemed essential to these forms; and the custom, moreover, with little variation, is still perpetuated by every age and nation, whatever be the creed. From the days when “ Go to I let us build us a tower” were first uttered, eminences were preferred for sacrifice and prayer.1 Traces of this preference still exist in the steeples of our own churches and the spires of our cathe- drals ; and the minarets of Islam, the pagodas of Burmah, China, and India, are, we conceive, but perpetuations of the “high places” of the Magi, which, perhaps, when artificial, were raised on the model of their archetypes, the pyramids in Egypt and the towerof Shinar.2 Nimrud, in our eyes, has consideration, indeed, as the chief spiritual, residence of Assyria, from the lofty and peculiar structure of its pyramid ; while Nineveh, we conceive, is entitled to the temporal honours of the capital, in which the Ninevite sovereigns were simply monarchs, whereas in the former they would seem to have performed also the functions of high priests. At all events these structures have preference, we think, rather as Assyrian than Parthian relics, from the fact of the Cuneiform-inscribed brick being found in some of those that have been excavated; and we may perhaps identify much that is related by Diodorus Siculus, 3 concerning the works of Semiramis, in this respect, with the singular eminences before us ,' as well as of her descent from the mermaid—goddess Derceto, as yet, we believe, only found represented in the sculptures of Nineveh and Khorsabad. To continue the subject of these extraordinary piles. From the situation of some of them along the Khdsr’s course they may have served too as . rallying points for defence. The principal ones north of the Zéb, shown in our map, are those of Tel Chimeh (556 L11;), Tel Sabt (i. 3 n J3),Khazneh(ajj‘g),Keremlis4(»:“ »Y x ,3 Jg, ), Fadhliyeh (6133,45), Beibokh (trash Nejmok ((5%), Telthameh 1 See Lucian on Sacrifices, 1—4. 2 Babel. 3 Book IL, Chap. I. “She caused high mounds or eminences to be raised wherever she fixed her camp.” 4 Evidently a religious edifice; this Cuneiform name, according to Colonel Rawlinson, being that of a god of the period. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. ' 305 (Mm), Abbasiyeh (Lanna), Tel Yam (pt, It), and Chittel (“ll—9.). The rest are comparatively small, and those of Tel Billa (.ll: k3.3) and Sherifkhan (vi; w 1.5;), or “the city Tarbis,”1 partake more of the nature of mounds covering considerable ruins than that of isolated eminences. The latter, indeed, has proved a temple of Sennacherib’s, having been recently excavated at fthe desire of Colonel Rawlinson. These works more than anything else speak of the populousness of the district; and, indeed, of all Assyria 3 for they exist in every direction within the extended limits of that empire: every homestead appears to have had one attached; and if really for sacred practices, we may imagine the sublimity of the scene presented by the assemblage of the congregations around the various altars in the open air. A signal by day, or the sacred fire at night, displayed from the chief sanctuary, might have prostrated the whole nation—under the great canopy of Heaven only—in simultaneous prayer. Beneath these eminences there yet exist two archaic treasures which, if excavations are continued, must be discovered. We advocate, however, more strenuous efforts for this end, for there is no knowing when the pleasure of the Porte may cancel the present firman in our favour, and leave us in the dark just at the time when some new phase in Cuneiform readings requires the greatest light to be thrown on the subject. The old proverb, “ make hay while the sun shines,” is equally applicable to Assyrian harvests; and while the rays of Osmanli friendship are warm upon us we should gather in our crops, for there are other and jealous gleaners in the field. The rivers of this region are classic streams, and noticed as they . are by writers of every age, they require little remark from our pen. Of \he‘Tigris, enough has been' said of its present locality in the suc— ceeding papers 3 a bridge of boats at present spans it at Mosul, where a solid structure previously stood at no very distant period. From appearances above water it certainly looks like a modern work, and, we believe, has received repairs, even in the last century. Such a structure did exist, if we recollect right, when the legions of Heraclius crossed the Tigris to fight the disastrous battle of Nineveh, and the present remains may, therefore, be the identical piers over which that emperor, on his favorite horse Phallus, some twelve centuries back, marched to the conquest of Persia, then governed by a Sassanian monarch, Whose ancestors may have constructed the bridge as neces— sary to their repeated designs upon the, Roman frontiers in Syria and 1 »:YY k : :EYY of the Cuneiform tablets. \ 306 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. Asia Minor. That no bridge existed here in Alexander the Great’s time we gather from the difficulty he experienced in crossing the Tigris,1 though no enemy opposed his passage: and, we may presume, the spot was equally devoid of one in the most flourishing period of Assyria, from its absence on the sculptures, where, however, we have the name of the Tigris in the Cuneiform, little differing from the various names preserved to us at the present day. On the map, the cha- racters representing it, as kindly furnished by Colonel Rawlinson, are Y; E} ». ».» and Y; 15} >1— Cy‘Q E&, (signifying The River Hattikkar or Hattiggar) the first two letters being the determinative of a river, while Y; E »EY :E» :Y > has rendered it diflicult to bridge, and in no place is the poverty of ‘ the Turkish government so conspicuous as it is in the passage of the ‘ This term I believe is still to be traced in the country; it is found applied to old water~chanuels. See my journey in search of the Median Wall and Opis, 7 in Bombay Geographical Transactions. Khéli or Chali are indifi'erently used at the present time for the 01d watercourse so long confounded with the Median vWall of Xenophon, and known more generally as the Sidd-i-Nimrfid or Nimrod‘s dyke to the modern Arabs. 3 “ Sogdian mountains ” of Arrian. 308 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. Zab, where, on the main road to the principal cities, we have, as a means of crossing, but a couple of ricketty rafts of nine feet square, worked by a few Yezidi Kurds in connection with the miserable ham- let and post—house located at the Kellaks of our map, where the road from Baghdad, past Arbil, leads on to Mosul. Wretched as the site is at present, the occurrences connected with the second name invest it with an interest singularly pleasing to the traveller, for, unchange— ' able as things are in the East, these spots doubtless mark the iden- tical fords passed by Alexander the Great, in pursuit of Darius. Here, indeed, we may presume the conqueror encamped to refresh his weary followers after the battle, which so far as conjecture and history guide us, was fought on the tongue of land intermediate between the Z2311) and its tributary the Khazr. The army of Darius, we imagine, occupied the superior portion of the gentle slopes leading from the summit of the tongue to the Khazr’s bed, which stream is recognized by philologists as the Bumédus of Arrian’s history, through its modern name of Gomel, as used in the north districts of its course, by the simple and prevalent interchange of the ,8 for the —((Y >>—Y :(YH pronounced as “Zéba—elita ” by the learned Assyrian com— mentator. Xenophon gives it as the Zabatus, while other Greek writers name it as the Lycus, Ads-09, “ the wolf,” this being apparently a mere Hellenized form of Zéb, which in the Semitic dialects, especially under the Arabic form of gel) bib) or gr; 5, has the significations of “wolf,” and “restless 3" such as is applied to the disorder created among flocks by the sudden approach of the animal of that name. The term, indeed, is quite characteristic of its wayward and suddenly impetuous energy when acted upon by bill thunder-storms. The province of Adiabene derived its name also, it is supposed, from this and its sister stream, being in the Aramaean, according to the writer of the article on Assyria 111 Kitto, Chadyab, or Hadyab. We suspect, indeed, that mountain streams like the Zéb and Khazr-su, in the latter Assyrian dynasties, bore a sacred character, from the labour taken to conduct them by the canal and underground tunnel represented in our map, originally emanating from Negoub, but afterwards extending below the hills from the banks of the Khazr-su to Nimri’id, which in its Observances as the chief asylum of religion, may have required the employment of mountain water thus brought, perhaps by a praise- worthy veneration, to this sanctuary , for the Tigris, even at the pre- sent time, is not so far distant as to necessitate the undertaking of such a work for the ordinary wants of life, when a canal dug in the allu- vial plain from the bend of the river at Selamiyeh would, at any time, convey the fluid to the base of the great pyramid and the palaces to the west of the town. The eastern suburbs of Nimrud, also, isolated TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 311 as they are from the enceinte of the original town, would seem to have risen in a subsequent age, as if designed for purposes connected with the great conduit terminating at the base of the mounds. The high cliff, through which the mouth of the aqueduct is tunnelled at Negoub, shews that the Zzib originally ran deep on the northern bank, and maintained a constant stream in the canaL The river, however, it is evident, subsequently abandoned this work for the opposite shore as its bed gradually widened, and hence the continuation of the tunnel 4 beneath the elevations which lead to the banks of the Khazr, which stream, we may suppose, was permanently dammed near its junction ' with the Zéb, to turn its waters fully into the excavation. For the age, it is undoubtedly a great work, and, moreover, bears testimony » that the science of levelling was well known to the Assyrian people.1 Butasmall portion remains at present entire at Negoub, the encroach- ments of the river having swept off the parts connecting it with the; remnants near Gubbeyeh, in the course of time. It is neatly chiselled through [a hard sandstone and surface-conglomerate, to a depth, per- haps of forty feet ,' the sluices and dams which regulated the supply of water being ingeniously formed from the original rock left standing in the Centre. The work is referred to, we believe, in the Assyrian records; and an inscription formerly existed at Negoub, which, thrown down, has been carried off or broken by the parties employed in Assyrian desecration- At all events it no longer remains “in situ ” to proclaim the name and charitable purpose of its founder, though these and its own title have been rescued from oblivion ,' the latter we have furnished us by Colonel Rawlinson, as H E fl: >(Y( t»: >Y.) the former being a corruPted form of it, used only 1n speech. 1 Much ingenuity and hydraulic skill 1s he1e evident 1n the Assyrian people, the canal being, for eight miles, led contrary to the natural course of every stream in the district. 3 See also Layard’s Nineveh and Babylon, chap. XXVI. ., pp. 616, 617, and note §. 1 VOL. xv. Z 312 i TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. The remaining stream of the region is the Khosr-Sn, the character of which is more minutely given in the paper on Nineveh. It rises in the elevations north of Khorsabad, but we were not allowed time to accomplish more than an imperfect survey of its course, from the west of that ruin to the Tigris. Indeed, for the same reason, we were compelled to abandon any lengthened operations at Khorsabad-itself, though we were enabled to connect its principal features trigonomet- rically with its sister cities, in which work we derived all possible information and assistance from the kindness of M. Place, the French consul, then resident there. We observed, however, of the Khosr, that though at times a mere rivulet, its deep and tolerably wide bed, by shutting up its outlet at the margin of the Tigris and supporting the accumulated waters by strong dams at appropriate positions on the gradations 0f the country, could be filled to any extent, and thus converted into an effective barrier against aggression from without. We are persuaded, indeed, that such a system of defence was adopted by the Assyrians, for the protection both of the capital and Khorsabad, which places were doubtless insulated from approach by the simple retention of as much water as was necessary in the Khosr and its adjuncts around the latter city. This subject is, however, touched upon in our opening conjectures upon Nimrud, and we see no reason to alter the opinion we have hazarded, regarding the necessity of establishing the mass of the population on this, naturally the weakest side of the district before us. On the contrary, we are more than ever impressed with the idea, purely on geographical grounds, that Khorsabad arose as a stronghold of Assyria simultaneously with Nineveh itself, though it has been generally held to have less claim to antiquity than other sites on the same soil. Of its sculptures and other works of art, considered with reference to the glory of the founder of the palace (Sargon), we have nothing to offer, but award it archaic honours from the earliest period, in consideration of the necessity for its position alone. After all, the palace of Sargon may consist only of an embellished suite of apartments, or a temple of a later period, built upon, or adjoining to, the original structures. Were we, however, to draw an inference of the age of Khorsabad from its monuments, we confess a desire to support our local arguments by the presence of the fin-tailed monster on its walls; which effigy exists also at Koyunjik, while absent from the sculptures obtained in N imrnd, as if out of its element there. Under its various appellations of Dagon, Odakon, Derketo, Atergatis, Oannes, and Noah, it seems pretty generally understood that the device subsequently worshipped in many parts of the East, emanated in Babylonia, where it heralded \ TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 313 the descent of the people from the patriarch of the flood ,' and as such, we may presume, in the chambers of Khorsabad and Koiyunjik, typi- fled the race of their founder as originally from the plains of Shinar. Semiramis is named by some authors1 as the ofi‘spring of a mythic goddess of this nature, who as a mermaid may have represented the patriarch’s wife, as did the merman our second progenitor, Noah. At ' all events the symbol, in combination with these historical person- ages, has a signification of some value perhaps, in the considera- tion of the comparative antiquity of Assyrian and Babylonian ves- 7 tiges, and in the former place, may also serve as a relative index for determining priority of construction in its several edifices. Colonel llawlinson, we are aware, has long held the opinion that the Baby- ' Ionian vestiges in Southern Mesopotamia are those of the most early structures of the human race, derived partly from the history of the people and partly confirmed by his own observations on the spot.2 \Ve but allude to the figure in two of the Assyrian edifices as indica— tive perhaps of their being the first established positions in the region, as well as confirmative of our own ideas that Khorsabad was an out- work of‘Nineveh at the dawn of Assyrian existence as a colony. The lofty tumuli of Telthameh, Nejmok, Beibokh, and Abbasiyeh, erected at regular distances on the Khosr’s course, and midway between the extreme posts, speak of a vigilance essential to the preservation of the dams which rendered the Khosr a sufficient bulwark against invasion from the north- west. In the inscriptions this stieam is written ll E ii EB]: i r >YY& >37, “Dur Sarginaf’ but whether it ever possessed or not a previous title, must, perhaps, remain in the obscurity of the past. We here close the more general description of the locality, to enter upon that of the capital, better seen on the large scale of Sheet I. Before doing so, however, we would call attention to the Appendix, (No. 1), where the interested reader will find the names of the various places noted in Sheet III, written in the Syriac form, with both the proper and corrupt modes of writing their Arabic equivalents. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the more corrupt orthography and pronunciation are most in use, at the present day, among the lower classes,- and the significations of some of them must be considered doubtful also, from the difference of opinion expressed in the country, as to the true meaning of many of the terms. REMARKS ON THE METROPOLIS OF ASSYRIA. Descriptive of the Capital, as shown in the first sheet of the 3161105. It is evident that in the selection of a site for “ the great city,” the founder of Nineveh was not actuated by chance or caprice alone 3 for no little ingenuity has been displayed in taking advantage of the natural features of the country, so as to adapt them to the propOsed end, that of protection and defence from the encroachments of his fellow-men. But before entering into the dimensions and details of the metropolis of Assyria, we call attention to it only as the principal city of the district included within the four streams shown in Sheet III, and distinctly specified in page 3 of the paper accompanying it. “79 need not look, indeed, for the extended walls ascribed to it by Ctesias, for it is evident they never existed, except in the imagination of the writer 5 and the “ exceeding great city, of three days’ journey,” enumerated by J ouah, instead of being, as is generally thought, corro- awn—gvrirrw»? ‘C'W' ‘ TOPOGRAPHY 0F NINEVEH. 3 l 5 b'orative of Ctesias’ accuracy, is simply conclusive, we think, of the character of the Ninevite abodes, separate, yet contiguous to each other; for the term “journey,” in our opinion, implies a going-out from one to the other}, for the necessary visitation demanded by the mission of the prophet. More will be said on this subject when we consider the identification of the spot bearing the name of Nineveh at the present day. We have here only to remark that the implied population, from the metaphorical expressions of Jonah, could not he maintained within the » circumscribed limits before us. But that the worn- -down mural structures of our map are those of the principal city of the region there 1s little doubt, and we infer there— fore, as in other countries, 2 the capital derived its name from, or vice 'veisd gave its name to, the district Where the founder first determined on fixin his abode. The hrase “a reat cit ” mi ht indeed with _ g P g y g 7 every propriety, be collectively or individually applied to either one or all of the Nineveh edifices; for it must be remembered, the people of the climates we are treating of, were, from the earliest times, dwellers in tents, from the Nile to the Tigris; and walled enclosures, however diminutive, possessed, in their eyes, a relative 111agnitude which we cannot question in the present day. “Is not this Great Nineveh I have built 2”" may be a pardonable pexultation in-the mouth of the Assyrian monarch who raised the first edifices over the heads of barbarian men ,' but, in the present civiliza- 1 From Nineveh to Nimrud in round numbers is eighteen miles; thence to Khorsabad about twenty-eight, and back to Nineveh by the road fourteen miles. 2 Exemplified in many counties of England alone: Yorkshire, Gloucester- ‘shire, N ottinghamshire, and others, where the “ shire,” as derived from the Saxon “scir,” simply means a division, or separate territory, and the chief town took the name of its original lord, or first possessor. We have the same term ’) in‘the Persian term ‘9 Shehr,” J43, “city, applied to separate congregations of men : and in the similar Arabic word we can perhaps trace the extended mean- ing of “renowned,” or “wide-spread,” a favourite title for illustrious cities, as well as personages, of the olden time. We are inclined, indeed, to consider that in the words Nineveh and N inns we trace the name of Nimrud ; the “ m” and “ n in the middle of the names being common enough mutations in every language; while the terminations “eveh” and “us” are referable, perhaps, to Semitic and Greek forms, with which the learned may assimilate the meaning of “ house,” or “ abode.” N imrfid is supposed to be a compound name; the latter syllable in the Hebrew being expressive of the title of “rebel,” or “mighty,” in accordance with his character. '- 3 The quotation is here, perhaps, a little distorted, but is equally applicable to Nineveh as to Babylon. Sacred and profane writers agree in distinguishing it by _ the term “ great,” and in a poetical fragment of Diodorus Siculus, Nivog M5750"). is employed to express its character as a city. / 316 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. tion of Europe, such language would be intolerant in prince or subject 3 for the simple reason that man is daily familiarised with progressive art, which enables him to conceive and behold the most stupendous objects with less admiration and astonishment. The superficialobser- .ver may, therefore, derive no interest from the dry topographical details of a spot more insignificant, in respect of size, than a second—rate borough town in Europe, still the associations connected with its foundation—its subsequent rise to power, and reverses to degradation -——-its monuments and records, but recently exhumed—must invest it with an importance that will attach even to the crumbled walls, which, for twenty—five centuries at least, have concealed the materials which fill up a large gap in the previous history of our world. In considering the map of the capital of Nineveh1 we must exclude from our mental view all human structures, and regard, at first, the natural features of the spot alone. Imagine the Tigris, then, thirty~five centuries back, confined by the cliffs now seen at Bash-Tabiyeh, abutting further to the northieast, in a valley of two—thirds of its pre- sent breadth only, and‘ for this reason attaining a somewhat higher level than it does at the present day, especially in the floods. As the dip of these countries is all southerly, fluid pressure will also, unless diverted by local irregularities, impinge on the southern curves of the land. This has led toithe abrasion of the western cliffs, and diverted the Tigris from its original position, now occupied by the village of Armi’ishiyeh. In the low season of the stream, from September to January, during those remote ages, let us regard it as occupying .the curve it does now, just east of the wooded island, near where the road leads up the cliffs to Tel Keyf, past the tomb of Sheikh Ahmed-al- Kharaza.2 From this point, to have flowed over the site of the modern village of Armfishiyeh, at the season and time we speak of, it must have had its eastern margin just in the line now occupied by the south- western wall, the alignment of which we may presume was laid out along it ,' and, indeed, the gentle curve at the south-west angle of the city will warrant this inference alone. As the spring drew on, we can readily conceive the rising water, bound in by the abrupt precipices of the right bank, extending its approaches more to the east, up the gentle incline, as far as the margin of what we term the spur, or lower crops, emanating from the undulations north of the city, until the highest annual level had been attained, in the season of our May. At.‘ 1 Vestiges of Assyria. Sheet I. “ An ichnographic sketch of the remains of ancient Nineveh, with the enceinte of modern Mosul.” 2 A Mahomedan doctor of some reputation in the neighbourhood, though we could not ascertain the precise nature of his claims for veneration. ' TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 317 this time we can picture to ourselves the steep cliffs north-west of the tomb of the modern Mahomedan Sheikh Kharaza, begirt to some height by the swollen and rapid Tigris, which passing onwards, swept more gently into the inclined and shallow recess to the south-east, occupying the embayment as far as the mill of Armi’ishiyeh, and. beyond that place submerging, in its spring career, the then winter delta of the Khésr-sfi, with the low grounds now marked “swamp” in the map ,' covering at the same time the ground plots of Koiyunjik and "Nebbi Yi’inus, then not raised, and filling the valley and ravine (No. 29), until checked by the rising grounds bounding them on the south, which its waters then embraced, in their descent onwards towards Ya1emjeh. The hard sandstone clifl‘s north of Kharaza, as well as the softer sedimentary deposits forming the old river margin lower down, bear evidence of this water attrition, in an unmistakeable extent. Keeping in view this spring aspect of the Tigris in the early ages, when considering the'natural form of the land at the period, let us quit the margin of the great river, and range eastward along the banks of the Khésr-su. As we progress across the spur it will be observed that the land, on either hand of the rivulet’s course, has a gentle rise, until we stand on the position occupied by the east wall of the capital, on the crest of the spur,1 and that the country declines to an extended hollow plain, before rising again into other lofty and more distant undulations beyond. ‘ From this point the general direction of the Khésr-su, to the gorge west of the iuined position of Hashemiyeh,i nearly n01 th, keeping, howevei, a lather winding course through th: hollow plain, terminating at the declivity of the crest, until it meets, and is diverted westward by, somewhat more elevated slopes, abutting .eastwards from the position No. 11, where, if we take up a new posi- tion, we perceive that the Khosr—sfi, by channelling the land at our feet, can be led southwards along the east face of the spur into the vale and ravine delineated at No. 29. Turning northwards again, we skirtthe crest of the spur to its junction with the low range from Whichit is thrown off, andwith which a few cropping mounds alone ‘ connect it, separating, at the same time,2 the recess or bay on the west side from the hollow plain d bed of the Khésr-sfi on the east ; while ‘the original low range itselafnsweeps here to the east, as far as, and beyond, the gorge west of Hashemiyeh, where there are numerous ravines,3 so deeply furrowed by the action of winter torrents, that the designer of the city could not fail to foresee and provide for the acces- ‘ No. 27 of the map. 2 No.23 of map of Nineveh. , 3 N0. 26 of map of Nineveh. _, 318 TOPOGRAPHY OF NINEVEH. sions to the waters of the Khésr itself, which must, as in the present day, have been at times wholly impassable; and, indeed, if happening conjointly with the season of flood in the Tigris—when we are con- templating our mental survey—the platform of Nineveh, for the most part, must have presented an unwholesome swamp. The Words of Nahum,1 “but Nineveh is of old like a pool of water,” in reality would seem to convey the primz'tice aspect of the site, at a certain season of the year. To enter into detail as to the motives2 for the selection would be, perhaps, a profitless task, but as we proceed we shall see the skill of the designer enabled him to convert the morass into a habitable posi- _ tion, strong enough in those days to defy the power of mankind, as well as to become the “treasure house” of the surrounding nations, which its people had despoiled. We will now view the locality under the autumnal garb we consider it to have worn at the period we are discussing, when the waters of the Tigris had receded, and occupied, in respect to space only, the number of yards, as in breadth its bed does at the present day; but, in regard to position, the course we have pointed out two pages back. At this sea- son, the stream of the Khosr, represented by an ancle—deep rill, slowly wound its way among numerous islands and shingle flats in its bed 5 and the spur of cropping undulations, which under the spring aspect resembled an almost isolated peninsula, was now edged by a broad expanse of pebble and alluvium, deposits of the retiring floods. This is the period for operations, and the Assyrians, let us suppose, are gathered to the task. The cut3 along the east face of the spur, to the south, is rapidly completed, and a corresponding one, on the opposite side of the Khosr, to the north, is stretching its channel to the verge of the range, where the Spur is thrown off, to meet a canal‘ cut from the right bank of the Khésr, about a mile north of the gorge near the position of Hashemiyeh. This cut is the city moat (12), or inner ditch to the capital, and, where meeting the canal, is on a perceptible higher level than the southern portions. To continue this ditch the spur is separated from the range it was attached to by a cut of nine ' 1 Nahum, ii. 8. ‘ I 2 It will suffice, perhaps, to point out the Khdsr channel as the weakest boun- dary of the district under review. The bulk of the population was here necessary to its defences; and in the angles formed by the Khésr’s junction with the Tigris, the most convenient site was found for the capital, whether for trading purposes, or for protection and defence. See also “Topography of N imrud,” where the iubj ect is further considered. 3 No. 12, map of Nineveh. 4 N o. 24, map of Nineveh. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 319 feet deep,1 crossing it in a direction of south-west, from just above the junction of the canal, to the east (No. 28) margin of the Tigris ,' its continuation, south of the Khosr bed, stretching at the same time with an easy decline, to the ravine at ‘No. 29, which connected it in this part with the Tigris also.’ While these excavations were proceeding, the walls of the capital, we may presume, were being fashioned of sun—dried bricks out of the earth extracted from the trenches, and of blocks of stone, which, we believe, on further examination, will be found forming their basement throughout the alignments of the city; for in most parts Where the wall has been dug into, neatly hewn blocks of limestone have been extracted, and indeed, may be passed on the surface of the soil around. Their regular cut surfaces lead us to conclude, however, that if the Babylonians, under Nimrud, first founded the city, the walls must have been fashioned by the expert masons of some other land, where lapidary science and the tools necessary to it had already attained to i a respectable standard which could not have been acquired by the foun- ders themselves, whatever may have been their skill in the construe: tion of, ordinary bricks, which they had doubtless some experience of, from Babel tuition, under the discipline of a Nimrod, in the plains of Shinar. At all events the perfect form of these cubes of masonry, com- bined with their singular position—if they do really exist throughout the foundations of what has been considered by some as the arche- type of cities—would point to an architectural era long antecedent, perhaps, to the foundation of Nineveh.2 We believe the question has been already settled by the learned in favour of the antiquity of Egypt. The subject is still, however, curious and interesting, considering the author of the Pentateuch (himself an Egyptian) in the pages of Genesis accords to Mesopotamia and Assyria the geniuses of design and execution in the establishment of permanent abodes. This is, however, a digression from the subject in hand. The excavation (No. 12) is prepared, we infer, for the reception of the Khésr and the protection of the city. “As soon, therefore, as com- i‘plete, let us imagine a dam (N0. 27) of massive stones being carried across the bed of the Khosr so as connect the ridge of the spur sepa- 1 No. 23, map of Nineveh. 3‘ Xenophon, in the famous Retreat of the 10,000 Greeks, notices a plinth of polished stone, forming the lower parts of the walls of the Median city which is identical with that-before us. He adds, however, it was full of shells, and this statement can be verified by the curious in the present day. The conglomerate is a. predominant‘feature in the excavated ditches, and an artificial concrete in - many places forming a facing to the scarped sides to prevent water attritition, is traceable also in many parts. 320 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. rated naturally by its current. The Khosr—or at least a part of it—thus turned into the new channel, joins the Tigris by the ravine at No. 29,‘ the remainder, by partially damming the stream further to the north, filling the canal extending from its right bank to No. 24, and there bifurcating, one branch occupying the cut separating the spur from the range (Nos. 12 and 23), the other coursing down the decline to the south to join the pent-up basin in its bed at the dam, where, unsupported, during the freshes of spring and in heavy winter rains,'there must have been a pressure threatening considerable danger to the growing city. This was, however, provided for, and the risk much lessened, by erecting other substantial dams1 (27, 27, 27) in advance of the main one; and a semilunar fosse, with a sluice gate} of slightly irregular form, named in the map, the central ditch (No. 13) would seem to have been subsequently added for further security against floods. It has a deeper channel at its head than the city moat (No. 12), but where it was conducted into that aqueduct below No. 11, the former becomes increased both in depth and extent. ‘ It is evident, however, that these outlets were deemed at times either insufficient in magnitude for the purpose, or that danger from without required a stronger bulwark to guard against the surprise of an active enemy, by the formation of the great eastern ditch and ram— part, No. 14 of the map. This in itself, for the age we speak of, is a work of great magnitude, considering it is cut for upwards of two miles with a breadth of two hundred feet3 through a peculiarly hard and compact siliceous conglomerate, perhaps the very worst of all soils to excavate and remove, for neither the pick, the chisel, nor the. spade, can be used with advantage in it. ‘ This . ditch occupies the whole breadth of the flat or hollow at the base of the spur, the rampart thrown up on its east side acting as a great barrier to the Khosr's further progress eastward, and atithe same time by 1 Remains still exist. 2 See dam in fosse just below the Ayn-al-Demlamajeh. The other outlets appear also to have had dams and sluices for arresting the rapidity of the current in its descent into the ravine at No. 29; the places they occupied are shown in the map. At No. 23, where the spur has been separated from the range, for the reception of a. part of the Khésr waters brought by the canal to No. 24, the obstructions are placed'teethwise from either side of the bank to‘ check the velocity 0f the torrent in its passage over the spur, before descending into the low recess beyond the cliffs. 3 The cast bank is the great rampart facing the plain beyond. It varies in height from sixty to eighty feet above the level of the bottom of the ditch at the present day, though roads have led over it for many centuries back. It is formed from the excavated soil of the channel at its base. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 32 1 a sweep at its north extremity enclosing the ravines at No. 26‘ so as to accumulate their supplies as well as carry off all redundancy in extraordinary floods of the Khésr. Thus the defence of the city on the land or Median side was amply provided for by shutting the great dam, which, we may infer by the remains, existed at No. 2.9, so ‘ as to close the space between the south wall of the city and the ter— tiary ridges rising immediately southward of it. In this way, not only the three excavated channels forming the defences south-east of the Khosr’s bed would be filled, but, if necessary, the large open space including the bed of the Khosr to the north of the dams (27, 27, 27) might be converted into a lake extending from the east wall of the \eity to the great rampart beyond the outer ditch, by simply preventing the further discharge of the Khésr’s water through the canal No. 24 into the Tigris at No. 28 of the map. The pressure, indeed, on the dams (28 and 29) at the margin of the Tigris was doubtless very great under such circumstances, but, we may presume, it could be relieved by sluices at any time; and the cross dykes, acting like lock gates in the canals themselves, would prevent the whole force weigh— ing on these positions alone. Appearances too in the present road to Khorsabad, crossing to the north—east angle of the city from immedi— ately north of the great mound of Koiyunjik, convince us that the eastern ditches and canal of the Khésr had here an outlet to the Tigris also, though at present, by the crumbled wall near N0. 24 having filled up the bed, we do not observe the actual point of connection. Imme- diately within the wall, however, and around the mound of Koiyunjik, the bed is well marked that must have isolated the palace of Sen- nacherib from the'adjacent quarters of the town. This branch, sepa— rating into two arms at the north-east angle of the Koiyunjik mound, fell into the Tigris to the west, and into the delta of the Khosr, then, as we have often repeated, near the mill of Armnshiyeh. The water defences,itherefore, could not have been more perfect; and the beauty of the landscape must have been considerably enhanced by their variety and disposition. ' Having, as far as we are able, described the locality and the System adopted by the Assyrians for turning the natural streams into artificial defences, let us consider the enceinte of Nineveh itself. The principal wall is evidently that on the east side; it is raised on the , _ Crest of the spur of rock selected for the site of the town,’and forms a slight curve, in the natural direction of the rock, with its convexity to the north-east-by-eas't. That the wall was originally continuous, the remains of the great dam in its line, as well as the water-channels to the south-east, leave no cause to doubt. It is now, however, rupe 322 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. tured, and the Khosr again flows in its ancient bed. 7 From the Khosr the portion of the wall northwards is the highest and most consider- able in respect to dimensions, averaging, in its present crumbled state, forty-six feet above the actual soil, which, as the crest of the spur, is of course more elevated than the surrounding land. A slope, partly legitimate, partly débris of wall, forms a glacis of one hundred and thirty feet horizontal width on to the city moat in this part, which latter is ten feet in depth; and at No. 25, where there appears from the existing ruins to have been an outwork, the water admitted to it would seem to have passed beneath a bridge to its connection, as well as to have been carried around the east side of the outwork itself. This portion of the wall is 6,800 feet in length, while that south of the Khosr, varying little from it in height and breadth, is 9,200 feet long, having, at 4000 feet, where‘the main road to Baghdad now passes through, two tumuli1 more elevated than the adjoining parts, from which much fine masonry, bearing Cuneiform legends, has been ex— tracted. At 7,850 feet from the Khésr is another elevation, which probably contained also a loftier edifice, that Would seem, from the dam in the bed of the moat, to have acted as a keep to the work, as did the buildings enclosed by the tumuli to similar dams lying just east- ward of them in the moat, as well as in the beds of the central and eastern ditches beyond 3 for a covered way to all appearance led from the walls to the open platform or semilune adjoining, on which, in time of invasion, could be assembled a large force for the protection of the dykes, the only vulnerable points exposed to an enemy. The outwork at No. 25 from its position would also imply its formation for a similar object connected with the dams in the canal and moat- to the north of the city. The north wall of Nineveh lies across the neck of the spur crop- ping from the undulations to the north, and extends from the north- east angle of the city to the Tigris, in a direction perfectly straight, of S. 55° W. from the true meridian. Its length is 7000 feet exactly; of which 2,333 feet is carried over the. rising ground, the remainder falling with an easy decline to the margin of the Tigris, here, at the present time, so far as we can judge, in the same position as it held when the city was marked out. At the same distance of 2,333 feet, being precisely half way between the elevated structure on the ridge and the north-west angle of the city on the Tigris, is the position of a. gateway With a.road, at present, as perhaps in olden times, leading to the pass ascending the great mound of Koiyunjik. On the east of this 1 No. 11 of the map: TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 323 gateway which,ito distinguish it in the map, is named “the porch of Bulls,” is an elevated circular mound covering some splendid specimens of colossal sculpture, homotaurs, and other sacred figures, that in their singular position, quite hid from View until frowning abOve you, occa- sion sensations which to transcribe would be at variance with topo- graphical detail. From this point another 2,333 feet concludes the northern wall, here broken and much worn down by its contiguity to the river. Masses of stone embedded in the soil beyond the angle of the city, point to the dam (No. 28) that retained the water in the moat to the north. This wall, seen in section, has an uneven summit from being raised over the inequalities of the natural rock we have pointed out near N0. 23, which numeral shows the position of the toothlike obstructions in the cut, for breaking the velocity of the current of the canal in its descent into the lower ground. We now come to the west face of the city, which, according to our view, was originally washed by the Tigris.1 From the north-west corner to a culminating point of the wall on the bed of the stream, north of the Koiyunjik mound, is 3,500 feet; its alignment for this extent being at an accurate rig/at angle from the north wall we have just described. This portion is broken by several gaps, worn through by the footsteps of men and animals during centuries of progress, and its dimensions compared with the eastern wall are inferior and low. The area comprised within the angle of the walls and the embayment formed by the rising grounds of the spur, we have characterized before as originally a swamp; but after the erection of these ramparts as a defence against the river, it appears to have been appropriated as the quarter for the more stable buildings, perhaps those of the notables of the city, judging from the debris of edifices, and other signs within. The former forms only the northern of the three portions which com- prise the western wall of Nineveh; for the great mounts of Koiyunjik and Nebbi Yfinus, covering the palaces and temples of its kings, occupy considerable spaces in the structure. The central portion is that extending south of Ihe Khosr to the mound of Nebbi Yfinus in a line of S. 400 E. for 2,700 feet; and the southern or third, formsaslight curve, then evidently along, a sweep of the river, to the south-west 1 In the inscriptions this portion of the stream seems as if represented by Y; E 1” :Q :Y >—_>_ y,— the Hatikkar and Hatiggar of English orthography, the Tiyptg of the Greeks, and the Tigris of our own geography. 324 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. angle of the city. This latter wall is 4000 feet long but of somewhat more irregular construction, being low and broken by gaps, as the rest are, converging at the same time towards the great eastern wall, which is separated only from its southern extremity by a transverse wall of 3000 feet, meeting it in a direction of S. 6'3 E. In more general language the enceinte of Nineveh may be said to form an irregular triangle,1 having its apex abruptly cut off to the south. The sides of this figure have a length respectively in the order described as follows, w ft. The East Wall . . . . . 16,000 The North Wall . , . ‘ . . 7,000 The West \Vall, including space occupied by the great mounds of Koiyuiijil; and Nebbi Yunus . . . . . 13,600 The South Wall . . . . . 3,000 Making a total circuit of . 39,600 or 13,200 yards, equal to seven miles four furlongs of English statute measure, just one-eighth of the dimensions assigned to the city by Diodorus Siculus.2 The contained area of the quadrangle of Nineveh from the above measurements is 8,712,000 square yards or 1,800 English acres of land,- and if to an inhabitant of a city be allotted fifty square yards in the computation of a census, the capital Nineveh would have accom- modated a population of one hundred and seventy-four thousand souls only.3 But of the existing remains of Nineveh, the most remarkable and interesting are undoubtedly the great mounds, bearing at the present time, the appellations of Koiyunjik and Nebbi Yuni’is. These, as monuments of man’s labour and decay, have towered above the plains of Assyria, perhaps in their present form, for twenty-five centuries of ‘ With more propriety it should be termed a trapezium. 9 The fragments of Ctesias which Diodorus quotes would seem to be loose in every respect. 3 About a fourth only of the number computed by those who have considered the metaphorical enumeration followed by Jonah. See Gcguet, Origines des Loix, &c., tome 3, quoted by Gibbon. We must, however, compare the prophet’s implied census of the inhabitants with his Itinerary, and identify accordingly the Whole district included within the four streams, specified in page 3 of the paper accompanying, the general map, as comprehended in the prophet’s designation of Nineveh. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 325 time.1 Their positions with respect to each other and to the north- west and south—west angles of the city will be observed to have been designed, for their centres on the alignment of the western wall are equidistant from one another and from the named points also, beingJ in fact, placed at each intermediate third of the entire length of the face of the capital then bordering on the Tigris. Koiyunjik2 is the most considerable in extent of the two, and may be appropriately named the Acropolis 0f Nineveh, for the eminence. bounded on three sides by the waters of the Khosr (led through the city into its old bed near the mill from the moat and canal at No. 24) must have been isolated from the surrounding edifices, while washed at the same time by the protecting current of the Tigris on the west, where the walls had openings to admit of the debouchure of the north—eastern stream. The beds of these are well marked at the foot of Koiyunjik, and the purposes they fulfilled are as easily recognized on examination.3 The shape of Koiyunjik is that of an irregular oval, some what elongated at its north-eastern extremity,- which, however, occupies the more elevated portion of the plain the eminence stands upon, though in itself inferior in height to the south-western extremity. This latter rises ninety-six feet above the Khésr, near itsjunction with the Tigris. Its sides, on the east and north particularly, are deeply furrowed by the , rains of succeeding winters, forming broken ravines, at uncertain inter- 1 Subsequent to the ruin of the city, Koiyunjik would appear to have been used occasionally as a defensive position in many of the wars which have waged between the Orientals and their western neighbours. Xenophon notices a castle on the site, as also Tacitus, (Annal. xii., 13). In the thirteenth century too, Abulfaraj and Bar-hebreeus, the former in Hist. Dynast. p. 404, the latter in his Chronicles, p. 464, mention a “ castellum ’_’ there. 2 This term is the Turkish name at present given to the great mound, and is' indifi'erently Written either as ‘g'Sl. "a; or (3;:th 731,5 according to the ortho- graphy of Mr. RasSam, which, however, may be doubted. As a. favorite resort of , the shepherds and their flocks, ‘,'§. 1:): “lambs ” may be deemed more strictly the derivative of the modern name, especially as the mound is known by the appel- lation of Armfishiyeh to the Arabs. The term 5‘1“)” J; is of doubtful signifi- ~- .1 cation, but the root F]; has a latitude of interpretation, and may be applied to “ variegated flocks ” or “great embankments.” These modern names, as far as we can see, carry, however, no weight with them for the identification of the more ' ancient names. ‘ ' 3 It must be remembered that the Khosr was shut out from its original 1 channel further to the'east on the building of the city. The lower portion adjoin- ing theATigris in its‘shape, offered however, we presume, a. convenient ditch for the separation of Koiyunjik on the east, and hence the canal led to it from the - north-eastern angle of the city enclosure. 326 TOPOGRAPHY OF NINEVEH. vals, in the steep declivities which conduct, over debris of the super- structures, from its summit to the adjoining plain. The surface, in general flat, now exposes numerous mounds of loose earth, thrown up above its south-west extreme, and is dotted also with them in other parts. We ascend the pile, and find these hillocks being daily added to, by the excavated soil from deep trenches, which yawn in every di- rection beneath and around. A closer inspection shews man is the labourer, and, busy in his vocation, we see him in the bowels of the mound, running to and fro with the pick, the shovel, and the basket, endeavouring to rescue from oblivion the long—lost labour, and even the lost history of his fellow-man; for among the operations we discern an eminent palaeo,0_‘rapher,1 regardless of mud below and rain above him, transcribing from the lapidary tablets which face the chambers and galleries excavated by the indefatigable Layard. Koiyunjik has, in fact, through the exertions of the latter, proved one of the greatest repositories of Assyrian art, and its records, it is hoped, through the perseverance and skill of the former, will develope to us the economy of a people who were illustrious and great as a nation, at a period just within the horizon of our mental capacity of time. The palaces, tem— ples, and sculptured galleries of the Ninevite kings, buried beneath their own ruins, and those of the superstructures of many succeeding dynasties in Koiyunjik alone, cover in extent of surface about one hundred acres of ground, of which a small portion only has been thoroughly examined.2 N ebbi Yfinus, the other artificial tumulus within the enceinte of Nineveh, covers an area of about forty acres. It is of an irregular shape, but more precipitous and abrupt than Koiyunjik, especially on its western face, which originally joined the wall of the city, though now 1 Colonel Rawlinson was daily thus employed in a most inclement season: book in hand, sometimes seated in a swamp, sometimes protected only by an umbrella from the torrents coursing down from above, he persevered and succeeded in obtaining copies of all the legible tablets uncovered within the mounds both of Nineveh and Nimrfid. It was ludicrous and interesting indeed, to witness the shifts he was occasionally put to to obtain a glimpse of light upon a defaced and uncertain character of the inscriptions. His activity of mind and body in the pursuit of his favourite study in every, situation, is certainly deserving of the success which the public and his numerous friends most cordially wish him. 2 We insert for the benefit of the curious that Koiyunjik contains about 14,500,000 tons of earth, and its neighbour, Nebbi Yunus, 6,500,000. On the supposition, therefore, of 1000 men being able to excavate and remove 120,000 tons of earth annually, these artificial eminences would require respectively about 120 years and 54 years for their completion by this number of people. In their construction, women as well as men were employed by the despots of the day. This we learn from the inscriptions decipher-ed by Colonel Rawlinson. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 3:27 separated from it by roads on the north and south. A deep ravine divides the surface, which is generally flat, into two portions 3 the east one being used as a cemetery, by the inhabitants of a village occupying the summit of the western and larger portion 3 on the north edge of which is a conspicuous white building, traditionally covering the last resting-place of the prophet J onah.1 The site, therefore, in Mahome- dan eyes, is a sacred one, and hence the erection of the village adjoin- ing, chiefly iiihabited by Kurds,- who are muleteers and cultivators of the flats around. As a necropolis it is also a favourite spot, from its . propinquity to the shrine; and the base of the mound is therefore thickly studded over with the last emblems accorded to humanity—— the head and foot-stone that connect him with his mother earth. This ‘ it is that renders excavation of the tumulus so difficult; but no one who passes can doubt but it conceals, like its neighbour Koiyunjik, a stately edifice of an Assyrian age,2 and likely, from the sanctity attached to it at the present day, to have been a much-revered spot,3 even in the early times we are considering ,' for, singularly enough, the later sects—even prejudiced Mahomedans—are not exempt from a certain credulity and veneration always attaching to mysterious per- sonages, and to spots4 traditionally invested with interest, as the them tree of their pilgrimage and operations. 1 The Christians deny that Jonah died in Nineveh, but acknowledge that a Christian church occupied the place of the present Mahomedan mosque and tomb, said to have been built over the former on the Mahomedan occupation. See Rich , ii, 32, in a foot note. i 2 Since this was penned, the Pacha of Mosul has opened the mound by the aid of convicts employed for the purpose. Two splendid bulls, much defaced, and some chambers formed of slabs bearing the Cuneiform legend, were exposed on my last visit in April of this year. The bulls are about nineteen feet high, contiguous to the so-called tomb of the prophet, and if anything, below the foundation of the edifice. 3 If Ninus really had a sepulchre in Nineveh, we are disposed to regard this tomb of Nebbi Yi‘mus as the mausoleum honoured with the title of “Busta N ini” by Ovid and by other writers, who, more or less conflicting in the circumstances of’ his burial, make the whole of Asia Minor, from Tarsus to Babylon, the scene of it. We shall allude to the subject again in the paper on Nimri’id, the great pyramid of which being supposed by some to represent the real tomb. 4 On the outskirts of Mosul, on the opposite side to Nineveh, we have the recognized grave of Seth, the third son of Adam. The tomb is much revered by both Christians and Mahomedans of the district. Nebbi Allah Shyth, f‘ Seth, the prophet of God,” is the usual name and title uttered in speaking of him; but are we to credit- the tale of his burial here, or does the site mark the last resting-place ’ of a pagan personage of a. subsequent age and less direct lineage from the original Adamrof our race ? Considering the extraordinary monuments of Assyria but lately revealed to us, we‘might indeed be justified in the expectation of meeting still older records on this soil; for Ninus, in archaic relation to antediluvian Seth, ' is but as a youngster of the human race. See map, Sheet iii. VOL. XV. 2 A 328 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. The peaked cone, surmounting the cupola of Nebbi Yfinus, can be seen from a considerable distance, and, stuccoed White, it glitters in the landscape as the most conspicuous object in Nineveh. Its peak was ascertained as 136 feet above the junction of the Khosr with the Tigris, though the mound itself is believed to be of less elevation than Koi- yunjik. Accuracy in this respect, surmounted as the mound is with - houses, could not be expected, and, unfortunately,the constant rains we experienced so relaxed the cobwebs fitted horizontally in the! tele- scopes of our theodolites, that angles of elevation could not be relied on ,' though those given cannot be far from the truth. The above eminences exhibit the only vestiges that are in any way remarkable within the area of Nineveh. There are, however, some low mounds of debris accumulated north-west of Koiyunjik, which point out the situations of buildings 3 and, on the rising grounds to the east, here and there, may be traced the alignments of others just above the surface of the soil. They offer nothing of interest, and we agree in the opinion given by other travellers, that the enclosure never contained any vast connected pile of buildings, like our modern cities, but, on the contrary, exhibited spaces of garden, and occasionally plots of open ground spread over with tents, as maybe seen at present within the enceinte of Baghdad. Under whatever dynasty, indeed, Assyria is viewed, we must always attach to its people inclinations favourable to nomadic life, consistent indeed with the aspect of the country, and their great origin as pastoral races. The love of wandering, moreover, must, as now, have made these families difficult of control ,‘and hence, doubtless, the policy of fencing them around with fixed abodes soon became apparent to those who, phrenologically speaking, possessed the organs of government and power. We believe, indeed, that the disposition in the people to stray had originally as much to do with the construction of the enclosure before us as considerations of defence had: in the meantime we are deviating from our own path in the topography of Nineveh, which we resume with a short account of a spring in the central ditch, No. 13 of the map. This pool, at the present time known by the Turkish name Demlamajeh,1L is situated in a recess of the west bank of the excavated channel. It appears to ooze from a stratum of limestone just showing below the superimposed conglomerate of the bank; and whether it has wept on unnoticed since the fall of the Assyrian monarchy or not, we leave others to determine. Tradition has, however, invested 1 &>."\N&'Q corruption of Demlamékeh, a term applied to a water oozing drop by drop. It is Turkish. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 329 its waters, which are pure and wholesome, with remedial properties in various diseases, that have, doubtless, in this singular country, been handed down from age to age , and the grotto before it, supported by its humble pillars and neatly executed arch of a venerable appearance, clothe it also with the honours of age, even did not the singular custom of antiquity,1 that of driving nails in the crevices of the stones, remain to our view at the present day: “as a nail sticketh fast betheen the joinings of the stones,” is here indeed literally witnessed, for we have large nails, driven in to their heads, filling the crevices of every seam. Were the practice a modern one, as suggested by Rich,2 nails of every period would be found embedded in the masonry, expreSsive of the benefits derived from the virtues of the water, for Rich regards them as sacred relics; but why the presiding nymph should be wooed by the hammer and the votive offering of a nail, as he supposes, we have yet to learn.3 We incline, therefore, to the belief that the arched masonry of the period was so far defective in the science of keying that the processs of studding with iron nails was necessary to the firm union of the blocks in the formation of the arch 3 otherwise the nails would be found in conspicuous crevices only, and not, as they are, wedged around the entire seam. The little fount of Demlamajeh has, however, other attractions for the English traveller, nor can he read a name carved on the grotto there without sympathy and regret; sympathy for the bereaved lady so feelingly mentioned in the delightful pages of "Kurdistan and Nineveh, ’and regret that Claudius Rich, who, with a true antiquarian eye, so critically examined and ably wrote upon both Nineveh and Babylon, should not hims'elf have been spared to witness the results of his foresight, achieved by Layard a few years later only. For the first detailed notices of these places we are certainly-indebted to that eminent man, who, as a traveller, treated all subjects, whether ‘ geography, history, or antiquities, with an inherent skill that cannot fail of being appreciated by those who follow his foot-prints on the same soil. Nothing, indeed, is wanting in his descriptions, though he was but a passer-by; and for labour in detail, where he had op- portunities of survey, he cannot be surpassed. Like the geologist, ‘ Ecclesiasticus xxvii. 3. 3 Layard regards the arch as the work of a. Greek or Roman age. We think i ‘ otherwise, from the prevailing practice noticed in Ecclesiasticus, which would, we presume, refer it to a still earlier period. 3 Rich, in his “Kurdistan and Nineveh,” deems these emblems expressive of a registered vow in the event of recovery from sickness—Vol. ii. ., page 34 2A2 330 TOPOGRAPHY 0F NINEVEH. indeed, who predicts the existence of precious metals from observa— tions of the soils, Rich, thirty years ago, presaged the existence of Assyrian monuments in the mines from whence they have been ' exhumed.1 The prejudices of the Osmanli had, however, not then relaxed, or, from Rich’s well known liberality and zeal, our museums would have been stored with Assyrian relics at the commencement of the present century. At that time all that we knew of either Nimrfid or Nineveh was from the pen and pencil of Rich, whose survey, engraved in the volumes edited by his widow, will be found as correct as the most diligent enthusiast can desire; indeed, were it not for the renewed inquiry into Assyrian subjects, the present survey we have the honour of submitting to the public might have been dispensed with, for its value chiefly consists in corroborating the fidelity of his positions; and otherwise, though quite unnecessary, stamping his narrative with the broad seal of truth. He was the first real labourer in Assyrian fields. Before concluding we may be permitted a few words on the identity of the ruins we have so often traversed, and have attempted to delineate as they exist “in situ,” opposite to Mosul, at the present time ,' for it appears to 11s that Layard, in remarking, “the evidence afforded by the examination of all the known ruins of Assyria further identifies Nimrfid with Nineveh, and that the former represents the original site of the city ” (Vol. ii., pp. 245, 246, of Nineveh and its Remains), is in error. That the former was endowed with the name2 as a part of the district of Nineveh, or as the capital of a subsequent date, we will not deny; but that it was “ par excellence” the capital of Assyria from the earliest times we cannot subscribe to. In the disquisition upon giving a new locality for the capital of Nineveh in favour of Nimrfid, the eminent explorer and writer on Assyria has called in the whole of the surrounding ruins intermediate between the i Tigris and the Z'ab, to aid in swelling the confined area of the latter to the rank and dignity of a metropolis! The same argument3 that has been adopted for Nimrfid in the same sense is surely applicable also to the larger quadrangle around Koiyunjik, which, beSides 1 We infer this from his rough notes and from his fragments, Cuneiform and other carefully preserved relics, though he nowhere directly asserts their exist< ence. His journals are, indeed, only the lesults of observations, not of reflection, his death preventing his opinions being embodied with the former. 2 We shall endeavour to explain this further when considering the position of Nimrud 1n the paper accompanying its plan. 3 Itinerary and inferred census 00f population from the pages of Jonah. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. ~ 331 traditionally bearing the actual name of Ninevel11(Ninua) for ages, is capable of containing all the Assylian vestiges yet foundo at Nimrud and its locality. The b1oad walls and noble wate1 defences of the former appear to us,i11deed, of 111010 i111p01tance in a categorical inquiry of this nature, than all the historical accounts published of the , capital since the flood. 2 'lhese are more or less vague and conflicting, and mislead instead of i11st1'.uct They should, the1efoic, one and all be set aside in favour of ocular evidence, where, as in this instance, we have it,‘ even if, from the earliest times, arbitrary opinion, founded 011 V tradition, had not decided in fixing the Nineveh of the woild. In opposition, the1ef01e, to Ctesias and D10do1 us,3 to Stiabo and Ptolemy, 4 » we must be allowed to retain the capital Wl1e1e it is self— evident its founder established it. We cannot consent, indeed, to sell its bi1th~ right- for the mess of flummerg/ the former5 two have presented 11s with, though even at the present day the Tigris is confounded with the Euphrates by half the population of the dist1ict. Xenophon, in the Anabasis, though he mentions not the name of Nineveh, makes the city in ruins opposite Mespila the capital of the kingdom of the 1 The characters >->'1e icsent the name in the Cuneiform >— Y P writings of Assyria, equivalent to the Hebiew, rm 3 The Septuagint writes the name Nwevi, Nwsvn, and the ordinary Greek writings Nix/0g, as the form, while in Latin it is denominated N mus See Kitto, under Nineveh,- and Colonel Rawlinson supplies >—:YY " VERY That Nimrl’id, as the representative of Nineveh, remained inhabited to the last as the protected asylum of its scattered people there can, perhaps, be little doubt, for the broad face of the country speaks of its abandonment by the Tigris at a period long subsequent to its foundation ,' and the excavated canal brought ‘with such diligence and ingenuity from the distant Zéb, supplies a conjectural page in its history which, affirmative of its sanctity as a cherished position, points to its occupation as a city so long as the tunnel and canal on the west bank of the Zéb remained open and intact 3 and, as was the custom in ancient as well as in modern times, it doubtless bore also the name of its great archetype, Nineveh. We may date its ' decline and final desertion from the time the former was severed from the aqueduct by an encroachment of the river. When this event happened we cannot ascertain, for history is silent ; but identified as Nimrud is with the Larissa1 of Xenophon’s Anabasis, we learn that it was deserted at least twenty-two centuries back, and, perhaps, for a — considerable period previous to his passage through the country. The account he gives of its capture during an eclipse of the sun has reference doubtless to its degradation on the fall of the Assyrian monarchy. The recital shows, however, that the current of events 1 Book III. ’ TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 337' connected with these interesting ruins had not then stagnated 1n the dark abyss of time. Notwithstanding the additional materials placed at our disposal by the recent discoveries, we must ever remain dependent in a great measure on conjecture for the comparative antiquity of Assyrian sites. Even with the correct interpretation of the Assyrian records, after years of learned and patient investigation by Rawlinson and others, ' we may not be nearer the truth in this respect, for the tablets appear to be records more of individual prowess than of historical or geographical detail, though among them there are legends of great value, doubtless, to both sciences. In considering the relative antiquity of several cities comprised within the limits of an original kingdom like Assyria genealogical lists would seem to be the surest guide for the attainment of correct results. These, however, can only be regarded as approximate landmarks to the key of inquiry, not as the “ open, sesame” of truth itself ,' for after all they may serve only to recognize the restorer of a palace, or perhaps the ingenious decorator of an apartment that existed before, perhaps, without “the foreign aid of ornament,” even previous, indeed, to the invention of letters or of sculpture. Certainly the elaborate execution displayed at Nimrud in the construction and fittings of the galleries and apart- menu, in the finished detail of costume and arms, and in the carving of its many—lined slabs of masonry, all point to an era of refinement, both in art and science, that could not have pertained to the dawn of Assyrian existence, but must have been the creations of long study, founded on system, during years of prosperity and repose.1 The surest test of antiquity must be sought for, therefore, in the earlier hieratic forms of sculpture, which we believe canxbe traced in the coarse stone and colossal bulls2 of Koiyunjik and Khorsabad, perhaps covering still ruder forms of a more primitive type, in the same way , as the creations of a subsequent period, when higher art prevailed, are found displacing the works of a past generation. From all we saw, indeed, in our hasty survey of the llimrfid palaces, we are inclined to regard them as the last monuments of Assyrian skill when she had reached her zenith of prosperity, and her people the acmé of comprehensiveness, as mental endowments were 1 Layard notices of one of his early discoveries that it surpasses thOSe of Khorsabad. ——See “Nineveh and its Remains,” Vol. I. ., chap. ii, p. 41; and a aim in page 63 he adds of others, “although the relief was lower yet the outline was, perhaps, more careful and true than those of Khorsabad,” and this description is apparently characteristic of the earliest palatial sculptures of Nimrfid: see page 64. " Some of these bear only a few letteis or a name for an inscription 338 TOP‘OGRAPHY OF NINEVEH. then developed in the race. To these gradual developments we must ascribe, perhaps, the fickle nature of their worship as charac- terized in the religious emblems now open to inspection; and, if the winged deity of the Persians, found in most of the monuments of the Achaamenian kings at Behistun, Persepolis, and other places, as is generally admitted, originated in Assyria, we must conclude that the emblem itself, copied by the Persians, pertained to a form of doctrine which, though blended with primitive idolatry, at all events embodied an idea of one supreme god, distinct from terrestial beings yet likened unto humanity, indeed, having for its type the great model of the Creator portrayed in the 1st chapter of Genesis.1 This model is nowhere found at Koiynnjik and Khorsabad, but is represented on the monuments of the later palaces at Nimrud,2 and adopted by the Persians, affords evidence that Nimrfid existed long after the for- mer were deserted, for efligies such as this are not the idle creations of a day, but must have become the accepted emblem of Jehovah only after matured reflection had ended in conviction as to former error. With individuals such transformations occur only after years of thought ,' with nations in the enjoyment of prosperity and peace, they may be effected either in the course of a generation, or of centuries. Whether the reformed mode of worship connected with this emblem was disseminated from Palestine3 through Assyria into Persia or whether it sprung forth in Assyria and radiated to the east and west, is an intricate question. That it obtained as the latest symbol of divinityin Assyria can scarcely be denied from its adoption. by Persia; that it became engrafted on the pure Sabaean doctrines held by enlightened generations preceding may be verified, perhaps, on the relics in our museums; and that both succeeded to Iconism, or the corrupt idolatry practised soon after the re peopling of the eaith, subsequent to the flood, we may presume from the light thrown on the subject by Biblical writers, and from .the absence of the effigy among earlier idols, as the monsters of Polytheism themselves stand 1 Verses 26 and 27. ‘Let us create man in our own image and after our likeness. ” The artists of every age have, perhaps, put a too literal interpretation on the text. 3 Layard’s Nineveh, Vol. II. ., p. 202. 3 We have the figure on a cylinder bearing the Phoenician inscription, FlArfie )( __ |( P43: Tfjl$ P 0 PM? and see a similar efligy on the wall of a mummy pit in Egypt, described under the head of “Burial,” in the Biblical Cyclopeedia of Kitto. It also abounds on the cylinders of Babylonia and Assyria in connection with symbols of Sabaeism, the sacred tree and bull of Assyria; these cylinders, however, we regard as of an era far later than others on which the figure of Ormuzd 15 not seen. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 339 revealed to us in the subterranean passages of Koiyunjik, which we believe to have been the abode of the primitive hierarchy of Assyria. These colossal homotaurs, which seem to have presided over the early mytholbgy of Assyria in the absence of Ormuzd him- self, winged as they are express care and protection, while their human features imply Godhead in the more exalted faculties of the mind. Thus intellectually formed, the fabricators of such works could not remain in ignorance of a still higher order of creation, apart from the globe they occupied. The firmament above them, by day and night, exhibited a splendour over which they had no control, but which their reason led them to view as replete with omens, good and evil, to man- kind. The result of study and contemplation soon exhibited the latter in the divinations and sorceries the Chaldeans were so cele— brated for ,' and to the former may be traced that profound system of astronomy, which, above all other sciences, leads the mind into regions Where it is lost in wonder and amazement at its own diminutiveness. In the science, then but imperfectly developed, men could only con— ceive a Great Cause in invisible action, and took to worshipping it through its most prominent and mysterious works, the sun, moon, stars, air, earth, fire, water, and the winds.1 The imagination would, however, still intrude the portrait of an ’ invisible origin, and as in the first chapter of Genesis we are told, “Man was made after God’s own image,” it is not surprising that the idea became a prevalent one with the whole human family who " thought on the subject at all, and that the representations of the deity . should appear anew divested of their more brutal forms and elevated high above the earthly groups in the picture ,' the diminished propor- ' tions, at the same time, conveying a rude perspective idea2 of “His habitation in infinity and space, while the winged circle surrounding the figure not i-naptly illustrated His attributes of ubiquity and eter— n1ty ” Compared, indeed, with existing emblems of holy and evil personages, where the limbs and features are painted with daguerreo- type exactness, we may deem the Assyrian Ormuzd as the most simple and pure of the class.3 But under whatever phase we view Nimr1’1d, whether in relation 1 Herodotus, in Clio, Art. CXXXI. - With our extended ideas at the present day, a single eye invested with a halo of glory, relict as it is' of pagan ages, serves to typify the all-seeing but invisible origin of nature. ‘ 3 In the East, there is a vast number of miserable edifices boasting the title »of Christian churches, wheee exterior aspects are the least ofl'ensive parts about 340 ’ TOPOGRAPHY or NINEYEH. to its claim to remote antiquity, or' as a sacred position of a. later Assyrian period—it is full of interest. In the latter sense, we are inclined to regard it as a seat of Magism, where the occult sciences, blended with faint notions of a pure deism, were earliest fostered, and disseminated in a corrupt form, which subsequently provoked and led to the reformation of Zoroaster. Birds hovering over, and bearing away the entrails of the dead in the Nimri’id sculptures, seem to savour of Magian funereal Observances, in much the same Way as Ormuzd is represented presiding over the living groups. In the generality of the Nimri’id sculptures, indeed, we'were struck with the disproportion between them and the more colossal forms of the monster groups of Koiyunjik and Khorsabad, while those of the human class at the former place, invariably wear a marked superiority in size, as well as in elaborate execution, over similar personages in the mounds of the latter places. To us this seemed particularly illustrative of the march of mind in the progress of time, as claiming for man an intellectual position in advance of the animal creation, while, at the same time, it withdrew from Nimrud pretensions to a very remote a’ntiquity.1 Its tablets too exhibit a copiousness of legend quite in accordance with accumulated events. They show, moreover, that composition and petral calligraphy excelled in its schools, and that operative talent was acquired, in the ratio demanded by the increasing pedigree and deeds of a long line of kings. On the other hand, however, the claims of Nimrfid to be regarded them; for within they are full of unseemly pictures executed in the very lowest style of painting, for art we cannot call it. Curzon, in his “Monasteries of the Levant,” gives a ludicrous account of some of these daubs, which disgrace human nature, however low the intellect may be; and on this soil from whence so many noble monuments have been exhumed, the Christian traveller has to deplore the low standard of the Christian mind, which, in the present day, can reverence efligies of holy personages compared with which the idols of the Assyrians are singularly superior, both in ideal expression and human design. 1 Whether these horned human bulls, lions, &c., received in Assyria, at any time, divine honours or not, is a subject involved in some obscurity; on cylinders from Assyria and Babylonia, the bull is often an attendant, or, indeed, made the seat or throne of Jehovah. In later times, when the veil had been raised which obscured the baseness of human reason, these monsters may have been degraded to a subordinate place in the temples, preparatory to their exclusion altogether. That they were deified in Egypt, and countries bordering on the Mediterranean, ' there can be no doubt, from numerous scriptural notices of the worship; and that their frontal decorations served to typify sovereignty and power, if not divi-' nity, in the personages who adopted them, we have full warrant of from the pages of Daniel and the coins of the Macedonian period. ‘Alexander the Great is - always thus decorated and, to the, present day, among Orientals, is scarcely known "by any other title than we ll )5 Zu’l Kurnein, “ the two-horned” Majesty. mvrmmr g : - 45‘s» ... ‘ (r are" TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. ’ 341 as of a synchronous era with the ruins opposite Mosul now denomi- nated Nineveh, must not be set aside, for, they are cogent, and time perhapsfwill pronounce them conclusive, though we cannot agree with Layard that “Nimrr’id represents the original site of the city,”1 for reasons we have specified both inthis and the preceding paper on the capital. Actuated by a fair spirit of inquiry, we express dissent on what may be considered pure geographical grounds alone. We have no desire indeed to overset theories founded on the ample experience "and erudition which the able illustrator of Assyrian monuments has brought to bear upon a subject intricate and bewildering in a super- lative degree; and our hints, therefore, it is hoped, will be regarded only in the light of suggestions placed by, the wayside, to smoothen and not obstruct the progress of others in the great road to truth. That other great cities of the day were established at a cotemporary period with Nineveh, is evident from Bible relation, confirmed by existing ruins on the spot represented by Sheet III. of our “ Vestiges of Assyria,” all of which have been more or less explored by the enter—- prising Layard, who, after careful analytical reasoning “ in situ,” has pronounced the early structures of Nimrud as deserving a first rank in the classification of human fabrics in this part of Asia, if not in the world.2 A synthetical conclusion in some measure Verified by Rawlin— son, who from recent investigations is inclined, with little hesitation, to identify Nimrfid with the Calah of our Bible and Chalakh (Xahax) ’/ of the Septuagint.3 . We now call attention to the second sheet of the vestiges of the Assyria, in which we have endeavoured to delineate the features of the country where Nimrfid or Calah once flourished, as a considerable ~ city. of that region, if not the actual seat of dominion. Layard, with much reason, ascribes to Assyria two periods or dynasties, in which the more recent monuments of its people were separated from the earliest, perhaps by an interval of many centuries. Adopting this I view, we must“ refer the statements of the geographers Strabo and Ptolemy‘as to ”the position of Nineveh, to the later period, when Nimrfid stood alone as the “ Omega ” of the Ninevite kings, and pos— sessed the name in virtue of its singular position, after the earlier“ cities had ceased to erist. The former places it between the Lycus 7 1 Nineveh and its Remains, Vol. ii., p. 246. '2 Nineveh and its Remains, Vol. ii., p. 225. i ‘ 3, Genesis x. ll._ 'The ”:7? of the Jews, and Colonel Rawlinson recognises; the cognate farm of Kalkhu >:YY g“; ll< in the Cuneiform inscriptions... 342 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. and the Tigris,1 the latter on the first of these streams. In a strict sense we cannot demur at either relation, for though actually bor— 'dering on the Tigris, there is no doubt but that Nimrud latterly derived its water from the Zéb or Lyons by means of a great aque- duct, ingeniously conducted from that stream to the south-east angle of the city where it borders on the Shor Derreh, a petty rivulet but boisterous winter torrent, having its source in the isolated hill of Ayn- es~safra to the north-eastward. The embankments of the great canal alluded to, Where unbroken by the river, are traceable in their whole extent to the Zzib,‘ and in a subsequent age, when the famous tunnel at Negfib2 had been left dry by the waywardness of that stream, we find an underground tunnel or Kariz3 connecting Nimrl’id with the waters of the Ghazr—Su. We have spoken of this work in the description of the general sheet of Assyria. At present the statement serves to shew the important position held by Nimrr’id during the latter dynasties of Assyria, for though almost within arrow’s flight of the Tigris, even after its abandonment by that river, the con« struction of a broad canal twenty—five miles in extent, through a hard pebbly soil, was deemed indispensable to the requirements of its population.“ At the present time Nimrr’id stands abandoned alike by the Tigris and the Zéb, and the viscous current of the Shor Derreh rivulet, mingled as it is with bitumen oozing from thermal springs in its bed, seems only to mock its desertion by the sweeter streams, as it ejects itself over the surface of the plain beyond. The Tigris at the present day in the low season never approaches nearer to the ruins than a mile and a quarter, while the Zéb, since the destruction of the canal, pursues its course at six miles from its walls. That its palaces and halls, when erected were, like the original Nineveh, begirt by pleasant waters, there can be no question 5 nor is great invention requisite to depict the constant struggle which man had with the element in the remote ages, 1 It is not at all improbable but that Ptolemy’s position has no reference what- ever to Nimrnd, but to the Nineveh of our map, opposite to the modern Mésul. 2 This is referred to in the Cuneiform inscription by the characters Y; E g: >~Y< Yg. ~ Negnb is a modern Arab name, literally . 4 :11, “ a hole ” or “ perforation.” 3 .UK Persian compound, the name of an underground tunnel for conducting a. stream to lower grounds‘ where the intermediate land is of a higher elevation. 4 See also general paper on this head, where the work is deemed one of a reli- gious design. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 343 to keep it subordinate to the objects he had designed. We have, as we have previously mentioned, a conjectural page written on the face of the valley before us ; everywhere the progress of the Tigris is well marked, from the period when its waters first embraced this early temple of the human race, to their divorce and subsequent attachment to the rugged outline of the precipices bounding the valley of the river to the west. Traces of its career in the remoter ages are still discernible in the abraded cliffs on which the edifices of Nimrfid stand, as also in the shallow indenture at their base, once occupied by the ample stream, but now almost obliterated by the plough. It seems probable, indeed, that the valley of the Tigris here, as well as in the neighbourhood of Nineveh, was more confined at the period we speak of, and that the same causes1 have acted in a greater degree to widen it to its present extent. Deeper beds, occupying intermediate positions ‘ between the eastern boundary of the valley and the present channel, mark alSo the Tigris’s course in amediaaval period. That named Serat a1 ’bu Debban2 by the modern occupants, bears unmistakeable evidence of the wayward character of the current which doubtless caused at the same time so much anxiety in the minds of a free people, for in the progress of the stream westward, they must have felt bereaved of theirprincipal defence. Hence, doubtless, the construction of the great dam Awaiyeh3 across the channel of the Tigris, the remains ‘of which, still the terror of raft-men, have given rise to many ludi— crous traditions, and formed a subject for exaggeration even with Enropean travellers.4 In the low season the Tigris tumbles and roars over the massive masonry it is composed of; and, on a calm night, can ~ be heard at many miles’ distance, moaning as it were a requiem over departed grandeur. We witness here, indeed, the vanity of human labors from the beginning, and require no written tablets to chronicle the ever—constant-action of nature which time has portrayed with a truthfulness that will endure; the traditions of the country ascribe the erection cf the dam both to N imrud and Darius, but in the last name \ 1 Fluid pressure on the inferior or southern curves, perhaps assisted by earth- quakes UU ”if“ Ll *4 “ The prowler' 5 way,” an expressive metonism common to the Arabs. 3, JET “ Sound,” -“ the tumbler.” It is also called occasionally the “ Sakhr Nimrfid,” or “ N imrfid’s rocks.” 4 The quaint old Tavernier describes the rapid here with a fall of twenty feet; and in our English translation of his voyages it is still further improved upon by the rendering of twenty fathoms. See his Voyages. VOL. xv. 2 B 344 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH.‘ we may, perhaps, discern a Median occupation of the city, long after: its first foundation, when such a work became necessary to confine the receding waters to the eastern clifi’s, in" order that the town should not be insulated from so essential an article. Appearances on the west bank of the river lead us to conclude that the work was of some extent, and if we are not mistaken, a portion of it will be found extending below the soil as far as a tongue from the rocky ridges lying to the W.l\’.W.1 The opening of the great canal from the Zéb, dates we presume, from the partial or total destruction of this work. We need not enlarge on the geological features of the tract con- tained in the second sheet of the vestiges of Assyria. They are in most respects similar to those in the locality of Nineveh, excepting that the higher ridges west of Mosul, which join the Sinjar groups of rocks, abut, with a less easy decline, on the valley of the Tigris in the neighbourhood of the Zéb. The ridges on either side of this stream, indeed, from the Kara Chokh2 range to Sinjar, appear mere continua— tions; the higher portions separated only in the line of their direction during the process of cooling, into vertical laminae, While the lower undulations thrown off from them are mere bubbles cropping forth on the surface, when the ridges themselves are depressed beneath the superstrata, generally of limestone and conglomerate, over the whole region. The Tigris, as far as Nimrud, is upheld on its southern or inferior slope by one of these laminae, which, acting as agreat barrier, terminates at Mishrak, a rocky elevation or cape surmounted by three conspicuous peaks when viewed from the north.3 Here, however, the opposition ceases, and both it and the Zéb have availed themselves of the outlet afforded by one of these deep depressions, to break through the superficial bubbles of the crust, and, after many tortuous checks, unite to form one grand stream, coursing silently, but deep, through comparatively plain lands, in a more steady course towards Babylonia. ’ The effect of this antagonism, has, however, operated to widen the valley of the river in the struggle of ages; and like a‘ great serpent, the more scope it has obtained, the wider it has spread its convolutions. These, sinuous enough in the low season, are ex- tended over the greater part of the valley in the spring, filling up the 1 We had not the means of crossing the river with our instruments to prove what is advanced, nor would time admit of the delay in the construction of rafts. , . 2 The name of a high mount on the summit of a ridge, crossing the plain between the Lower and Upper Zab. 3 This will be better seenon Sheet III. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 345 deserted beds 5 and in periods of flood the waters, like a vast sea, even reach the deserted abodes which, centuries ago, they both furnished and protected. Like the victims of Tantalus’ cup, a besieged people in Nimri’id may, indeed, have [perished from thirst in sight of the fluid which, a few months or even days later, inundation brought to their very doors. At these times the fine crops in the valley are swept away, and their owners, with the little household furniture they can snatch, accompanied by their families and cattle, beat a precipitate retreat. Security is afforded them on the wrecks of the Assyrian palaces. In the autumn and early spring, as represented the map, the valley of the Tigris consequently presents a broken surface. Broad isolated fields, lying either cultivated or fallow, con— ‘trast prettily with the excavated hollows left by the receding river. These exhibit pools of water interspersed with a dark scrub or broom, the natural product of old watercourses 3 while the rich waving green .of the. crops, enamelled with every variety of wild flower, now under the light of a spring sun, now in the shade of a passing cloud, glit- tering with the early dew or the passing drops of an April shower, com- bine‘to render Nimri’id in these months a favorite locality with most men. With the nomad andother lovers of Nature, modern or ancient, it must always have held a two—fold estimation. The mud hamlets of - Naife‘h-Deréwish1 and Nimri’id, as winter abodes of the present occu- pants, infested with wild cats, crawling with vermin, and crumbling under the wretchedness of construction, shew, however, that man alone disfigures a scene Where nature has ever ‘been bountiful, and where he himself, branded as a “ barbarian,” once stood pre—eminent and conspic- uous enough to excite the admiration of states deeming themselves civilized only after thirty centuries of progress. If “barbarian ” then, how. shall we designate him now? For the ethical speculator, indeed, an ample and instructive field is open on the banks of the Tigris ; though we will not deny a similar theatre exists on the shores of the Thames also. Philosophers, sentimentalists, utilitarians, “ et hoc genus omne,” have drunk alike of the former as of the latter, yet now, except in Australia and in other remote isles of Oceania, we can no t 0/ corruption of Darius or Darayfish. It is not unlikely, considering that Dara or Darius is traditienally invested with the tales and works of the neighbourhood as well as his great prototype Nimrfid. Both names, indeed, may have a patent signification, though'used as mere meaningless epithets in the mouths of ignorant wanderers of the present day; for, perhaps, they are the only traces left in the minds of men of the two powerful dynasties in which Nimrfid flourished; in the ~ ‘ latter as the chief,‘m the former as a secondary city. 1 U“) lJQ Derawish: this name has been thought by many a Mahomedan 2B2 ~ 346 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. where find man so attached to the zero of human happiness, which he has sunk to from the enjoyment of a full measure of prosperity and power. Ambitious only of freedom, he is content in his rags, and will not barter them for the silk and ermine of a shackled existence; though covetous enough of the latter if able to possess himself of them by “ The good old rule . . . . the simple plan, That they should take who have the power; And they should keep who can.” We have again wandered a little from the subject in hand, but Bedouin-like, our disposition is to stray from the direct path to scan the expanse around; and in the absence of other interesting objects, we may be excused plucking an inviting flower, so long as we delay not to extract it by the roots. We will now quit Layard’s hut in the plan, and direct our steps eastwards, along the margin of the old bed of the river, past the mouldering walls of the mud hamlet that has usurped the name of the “mighty hunter Nimrod,” pertaining to the long—buried vestiges of the splendid halls beyond 5 our guide is the high pyramid marked 7 in the plan.1 Before we reach it, however, we are sensible of having stumbled into a hollow way,2 filled from a ravine and winter torrent coming from near Tel Agfib or Yakfib, north of the city. Absorbed as we are in the dark piles before us, we heed not the swamp we are wading through, further than to observe, on coming to the margin of the ruins, that the conglomerate of the tertiary rocks bounding the east edge of the valley has not only been scarped artificially, but is also well worn by the water-attrition of a long period. The conclusion at once is, that the Tigris itself flowed here3 at a very remote time, and this is further confirmed by the contin- uation of the bed, and a well marked water~line or beach, as far south as Tel Chiméh.4 This bed now receives only the winter contributions from the ravine north, and the Shor Derreh rivulet south, of the city, which latter, when Nimri’id was in a flourishing condition, we are led to believe, had its debouchure lower down, on the line of the embank— ment of the great canal, where we see the opening5 below the isolated 'undulation south of the eastern suburbs. This isolated piece of rock 1 Sheet II. of the Vestiges of Assyria. 2 No. 6 of the plan. 3 No. 6 of the plan. . 4 Refer to the general plan for this artificial pile. Its distance would not admit of including it in the large scale of Sheet II. 5 Marked f on the plan. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 347 soil1 appears, indeed, from the debris of buildings upon it, and from its singular conformation, to have been connected originally with the rock undulations on which the city was first designed ,' the great em- bayment that we now see separating them, having been formed by the combined back-water action or eddies of the Tigris, and the pressure and percolations from the Shor Derreh in the lapse of ages. The walls of the city, broken and incomplete to the south, look certainly as if their terminations had been swept away by the floods. North of Nimri’id the character of the country is the same; unless separated by rain—courses it averages a height of twenty and thirty feet above the valley of the river where it abuts on it, but more distant undulations rise to an elevation of eighty and ninety feet, culminating in still higher points, about five and a half miles north of Selémiyeh. Breaking through the crops or tertiary bubbles here bordering the valley to the east, the chief stream is the Shor Derreh rivulet, emanating from springs in the hill of Mar Daniel. At seasons it is quite dry in the lower part, owing to the water being turned on to the upper plains for irrigation, but in the winter and Spring the torrents come down with great violence. The same may be said of the next, an inferior rill2 coming from the plains and undulations north of Tel Yaki’ib. They are both lost in the valley of the Tigris, at points separated only by a mile and a half of undulating land. The tongue at the end of this has been selected for the site of Nimrfid, the second, as we deem, in rank of the Assyrian cities. Compared with the capital Nineveh, itpis insignificant in size, though equal in interest, as the mine from whence England, by the exertions of ,Layard, has obtained her principal monuments of a people pre- viously looming as shadows only in the mist of history. What remains of the 'enceinte of Nimrfid occupies an area of a little less than a thousand acres. The northern half of the city only appears to have been protected bya regular wall, which is still traceable; but ’unlike similar structures at Nineveh, they could not have been remarkable for great altitude or dimensions. The noble water— defences of the capital are wanting too to this city, it being sur- rounded on the north side by a mere moat of no great extent, apparently fed by the damming up of the Tel Yaki’ib ravine to the north, the waters of which being subsequently led into the ditch at the northeast angle of the city, thus connecting them with the 'Shor Derreh stream on the east, and the Tigris to the west, when it flowed ‘ Marked C on the plan. 2 Rich calls it Karadash ravine. We could get no fixed name for it, it having as many aliases as a. police prote’gé in England. 6 .348 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. past the platform of the palaces, then, as we infer from appearances, erected on the margin of that stream. The more prominent and regular walls of the city are as near as possible in the direction of the true cardinal points 5 the northern one having an outwork or project- ing buttress1 just midway of its length. Gates appear to have been situated at uncertain intervals in the wall. They will be best seen by reference to the plan, as also will the broken and irregular align- ments of the city to the south, a great part of which is seemingly wanting, being, as we suppose, swept away by the combined action of the rivulet and the river as described in the preceding paragraph. As at Nineveh, the interior displays no evidence of buildings beyond a reddish hue of pulverized brick imparted to the surface of the undulations, which are higher than the walls beyond, though in the iorth—west angle we thought the alignments of houses were traceable in the soil. The plough has, however, done its work here also, for the mansions of rich and poor, if they ever existed within, are alike levelled, nor are the stately temples of its rulers left unfurrowed, the coulter and share, aided by the atmosphere, having, indeed, atomized every structure exposed to their action, and Where the cypress should stand as the fitter emblem of their sepulture beneath, we find its place usurped by the waving richness of spring crops. Though now occupying the extreme south-west corner of Nimri’id, the platform enshrining the temples and halls of its kings appears anciently to have held a more central position with regard to the sur- rounding town, then extending, as we have surmised, much further to the south. Be this as it may, the platform surrounds all that is now attractive on the spot, and once contained the trophies that now adorn the Assyrian halls of our Museum. The four palaces from whence these were extracted occupy the west face and south-east corner of this platform, which is an irregular parallelogram in shape, the north side being somewhat shorter than the southern ; it encloses an area of sixty acres. Layard has named the interior palaces, the north-west, the central, the south—west, and south-east edifices, which nomenclature we have retained as appropriate.2 Encircled by a much worn parapet rising at present a few feet above the platform Within, they form of themselves a separate enclosure inside the city wall. On the north-west corner of this, where it is connected with the latter, is erected the Great Pyramid that looms so conspicuously over the / 1 See description of the Great Pyramid. _ 2 Deep ravines separate the apartments on the west and south face of the enclosure. The torrents of centuries, coursing from the summit of the mounds to the plain, have in a great measure defined their extent. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 349 Assyrian plains. It rises 133 feet above the low autumnal level of the Tigris, and about 60 feet above the platform of the palaces.1 Recent excavations have shown the pile as based upon a rectangular plinth of brickwork, aligned in the direction of the cardinal points, and faced with finely cut blocks of limestone, having recesses in the sides at regular intervals, and a semicircular bastion projecting in the centre of the north wall, much in the same way as the buttress - described in the enceinte of the, city. Above the base it is composed of sun-dried bricks; its apex, worn down as it, is at present, rose doubtless to a much greater elevation. The crumbled debris scattered over the sides has not only entombed the base in the wear of centuries, but has nearly obliterated its pyramidal form, still faintly traceable in the rounded outline of the mass. No remains have yet been found Within this singular structure, although evidently designed for a special purpose and not raised as the creation of fancy alone. Shut out as the N imrfid palaces are from the other Assyrian positions in the neighbourhood by intervening undulations of some altitude, we are disposed to View its erection simply as a tower of communication, whenCe alarm or religious Observances might be either signalled or seen from a distance around. The whole plain to the foot of the mountains, is distinctly visible on a clear day from its summit, but a few feet, lower down all is bid by the contiguous land. It is only reasonable, therefore, to refer its elevation to a specific object such as this, without seeking to identify it with the “ Busta Nini,” placed by ancient writers in several localities of Asia Minor.2 From the absence \ ‘ These elevations may be a little in- error, from the causes noted in the pre- vious paper. Rich made it 144% feet, but he had not instruments with him for any . acciirate measurements. Rich’s “- Kurdistan and Nineveh,” v01. 11., chap. xviii., p. 132. 2 Were Ninus entombed in Nineveh at all, we should perhaps seek to identity A the site of his mausoleum with that venerated at present as the last resting-place of the prophet Jonah, from the simple fact of the first Christian fathers not recognizing the grave as that of the missionary of Nineveh. Yet doubtless a grave existed there, and we may infer a more than common grave, from the fixed and unswerving bigotry of all Orientals in receiving, in this respect, what has traditionallydescended from age to age; nor is it likely that early Mahomedans, keen in inquiry on matters of this nature, and doubly prejudiced, as they were, against Christian edifices, would blindly accept a Christian chapel, perhaps ' - decorated with the hated emblems of their faith, as the sepulchre of Jonah, unless a. tomb invested with necrological honours from a remote period rendered the spbt, in their eyes,‘worthy of memorial and preservation, Rich, who took great interest in such subjects, spent much time in inquiry during a residence in the neighbourhood, and he states that the Christians distinctly deny J onah’s burial on - this spot (Kurdistan and Nineveh, Vol. II., chap. xiii., p. 32); and in this, 350 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. of such a monument in the capital, while we witness similar ones on a smaller scale spread over the whole country, we are inclined to view it as a religious erection of a later dynasty at a time when the practice of the early Persians, “ who made their altars the high places of earth o’er-gazing mountains,” first came into vogue. The sacred fire blazing from its summit might have conveyed the signal of sacrifice or prayer to all similar positions around, answering in the latter respect to the minarets of Islamism in our own day. Recent excavations have shown too that it served for other national purposes; it having borne on its south face a grand tablet commemorative of a series of events recorded on a single stone, perhaps of thirty tons in weight. Thrown down from its position, it now lies in fragments at the foot of the pile between the north-west palace and an adjoining apartment, which, to distinguish it, is named “the Temple of Mars” in the plan before us. But Whatever cause may be assigned as the origin of this singular monument, it has served as an attractive object on the plains of Assyria for many ages past. As a ruin it excited the attention of Layard and Rich in the present century, as it did that of Xenophon upwards of three hundred years before the birth of Christ. He names it Larissa ,' and from his description it would appear that the masonry of the base, so lately exposed again, was then conspicuous, though it could scarcely have been more perfect than it is now. Nimri’id, indeed, in every phase of its singular history, is pregnant with interest to the European, whether in connection. with the footprints of the respect most authors agree with them, placing his tomb at Gath-hepher and Tyre in Palestine, the pseudo-Epiphanius even allotting a portion of the cemetery of Cenezoeus to the reception of the prophet’s body.—See “De Vitis Proph.” and the Paschal Chron., quoted by Kitto, The Christians had, however, a. sort of hermitage on the site of the present tomb. This hermitage, dedicated only to Jonah, in Christian veneration for his mission to Nineveh, may have been erected near the principal feature of the N ecropolis, generally, from the sanctity attached to the dead, the last memorial of a city. Its position on this might be regarded in keeping with the character of an edifice raised by austere piety and enthusiasm ; and, on the Mahomedan invasion, a pardonable deceit connecting the chapel and the grave, while it preserved both from ruin, may have originated and perpetuated an error which renders the site a “noli me tangere” position to the spade of the antiquarian. Could we convince the ’Ulema of such an error, and point out the prophet’s grave to them in Palestine, Islam credulity, partaking more of supersti- tion than respect, might deem the work a charitable one which separated the corrupt relics of their race from the remains of a heathen and proscribed people; a little money would then put us in possession of the mysterious contents of the mound. Since the above was written we heard of operations having been com- menced by the Turks themselves, and on gour way to England examined some colossal specimens of Assyrian sculpture on a. level with the foundations of the supposed tomb of the prophet. I TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 351 indomitable Ten Thousand, or in relation to its own previous career of glory and renown. Invested with local traditions, the long winter night of the Arab is enlivened too by their relation, and though he is not over-critical in regard to the truth of the narrative, he is as much interested in his subject as the most ardent philosopher of our schools. In the superficial sketch represented by our plan there is little else attractive in the ruins of Nimri’rd. The palaces, buried in the interior platform, have been minutely described in Layard’s interesting pages. We saw them under the disadvantages attendant on the preservation of the sculptures 3 for they had been but partially cleared again of the rubbish heaped over them on Layard‘s departure. We saw enough, however, to satisfy an ample curiosity, and only regretted that the brief time at our disposal from other active duties, would not admit of detailed plans being made of the interior on a large scale. These would require a long residence on the spot, and, moreover, to effect them, the halls and temples must be laid bare again, at an expense perhaps in- commensurate with the object in view. The eastern suburb appears to have been formed after the modelling of the original town. Its mounds1 on the south side higher than the platform of N imrl’ld, though lower than the great pyramid, would seem to cover other monuments of the period 5 and, indeed, were excavations undertaken on a grander scale, under an able superintendent, we should doubless derive as much - material as archaeologists could ever expect to possess, or, indeed, as the nation at large could desire. There are, moreover, other positions contiguous to Nimri’id which would yield similar relics 3 one of which, under the modern name of »- Selamiyeh, that of an Arab village of an early Mahomedan era, occu- pies a portion of Sheet II. of our vestiges of Assyria. Now only a miserable hamlet, it was of considerable importance, even in the better days of Islam, theOriental geographers, in a confused manner, identify- ing the site with Athur or Assyria.2 But ,without these notices, we couldvnot fail to recognize the crumbled and almost obliterated walls as the structures of a syn-' chronous period with Nimrfid and Nineveh. Their remains enclose an area, at present, of four hundred and ten acres; but part ’of the city, at no time of very greatxextent, has been swept away by the Tigris, or severed from its precipitous position by the shock '1 About eighty-three feet above the level of the plain. I am led to believe these eminences were somehow connected with the canal from the Zab. Perhaps the water was raised by machines erected here for the supply of the western palaces, on the great dam being ruptured by the flood. -“ See Yakfit, in M’ajim a1 Buldéu; and Abulfeda, under the head of ML , 352 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEYEH." , of an earthquake. The alignments of the south-west face, now on the edge of the cliffs, washed at times by the Tigris, extended fur- ther to the west while the city was in existence, and the north-west wall, meeting it from a northerly direction, formed a right angle overlooking the stream. This angle, and all that stood upon it, has long since disappeared in the flood _; but under the debris of more recent edifices, forming high mounds in the interior, we might be cer- tain of meeting with Assyrian monuments, as we have done at. other places.1 The soil, indeed, cannot be scraped even without exposing long-covered buildings, the materials of which are prominent also in the sections of the ravines passing through the city. Similar ravines confine the city on the north and south ,' the former having warm springs, like the Shor Derreh, in its bed, that emit petroleum, and, at the same time, aid other sources in tainting the otherwise pure air of the locality with fumes of sulphuretted hydrogen, which, in a dense state of the atmosphere, lie sufficiently low to infect the whole plain. An alkaline clay, much prized in the baths of Mosul and by the Arab females of the neighbourhood, abounds too in the banks of this ravine. We have no more to. offer on the subject of N imrfid, and, indeed, fear having already said too much. The present aspect of the spot has, however, suggested ideas, which, though in some measure foreign to our subject, we have ventured to pen, to relieve the dryness of geogra- phical narrative 5 and in the accompanying plan have endeavoured to delineate the features of the locality as faithfully as we are able. To the enterprising explorer of the region, as a competent judge of its merits, and as a small token of the interest we have taken in his career and discoveries for the last twelve years, we inscribe Sheet 11.2 of the Vestiges of Assyria, feeling assured of the approval of the Govern- ment of India, under whose authority the survey was made during the last spring. NARRATIVE OF THE NINEVEH SURVEY. WE have now done with the more-known vestiges of ancient Assyria, and those who require other detailed features of the region included in Sheet III. must follow us in the narrative of the survey, where occasional particulars of its modern aspect will be found inter- ’ 1 A fragment of la fine cylinder, bearing a genealogical inscription, was obtained at Selamiyeh. Cuneiform-stamped bricks, with a new form of name, and a stone With crouching lions, of a somewhat rude type, procured from the village, bespeak too a mine of antiquities, not‘yet examined. 2 On .a plane scale of one thousand feet to an inch. ToroeRArHY or NINEVEH. 353 Spersed among the notices of our daily proceedings. These are re- corded only as an estimate of the pains taken to render the work as perfect as possible in the short interim allotted to our labours. The East India Company, ever the liberal patrons of science, at the request of the trustees of our national museum caused the survey ' to be made. More pressing duties, however, prevented its accomplish- ment at an earlier pe1iod than the last spring, when we set out from B Ighdad on our errand, with the instruments and party necessary to 7 the undertaking. We were at a loss, however, for an assistant, until Dr. Hyslop, with the sanction of Colonel Rawlinson, generously offered his aid for the purpose, and, through his active exertions in the field, ' we are mainly indebted to the completion of the survey, for our time was very limited indeed. To his zeal in the department, the Flora of the Nineveh region will be known. We will not forestall his obser- vations on this head, but acknowledge his ready compliance with our views with the thanks it deserves. To ascertain the meridian distance of the region we were proceed- ing to from Baghdad, it was necessary to make a caravan journey by easy stages, to give full effect to the performance of the chionometers, two of which, excellent instruments by Dent, we had with us. They acted admirably on the way, and gave results when compared with a carefully adjusted dead-reckoning from day to day, as creditable to their own excellence as corroborative of the care with which they had been carried from stage to stage. The daily traverses made on the road, with the astronomical observations taken, are embodied in the Appendix. It will suffice here to record that the great minaret of - Mosul, in latitude 360 20’ 16” north, has a meridian distance of 1° 16’ 52” west of Baghdad, a quantity which cannot be far from the truth. The other observations on the journey will form the basis of another map, that of (the great military road between the modern "capitals of Assyria and Irak, now under construction, and continued as leisure will permit. We therefore abandon the records of this part of-our journey for a time, and open our note book at the Upper Zéb, which stream we reached in thirteen days from Baghdad. Here we experienced the first great delay we had met with, for it occupied from 2 P.M.- on the preceding day until the morning of the next to cross the stream by the frail and diminutive rafts worked by the villagers of the two Kellaks, who are a mixed people of Yezidis ”and ‘Boht Kurds, cantankerous enough in the exercise of their vocations as ferrymen across the stream. Such delay the traveller experiences on the great post road of ‘ Turkey, and, if all else were satisfactory, this fact alone angurs ill of 354 TOPUGRAPHY or NINEVEH. the administration. Though we did not get dinner until midnight, we must cease grumbling, to admire the pretty scene open to us at sun— rise, such as is presented by gentle pastures, sloping t0 the banks of the stream, and covered with the flocks and first lambkins of the sea— son, frisking around the black tents of the shepherds, which dot the emerald carpet spread by nature on the banks of the Zéb. Ascending the tongue lying between it and the Ghazr-Su we see the great plain of Shemamek, bounded by the Kara—chokh hills, dotted with the ' tumuli of former races, on the left of the Zéb. To the west, beyond the meeting of the Ghazr, the view is interrupted by the ridges from the Jebel Maklub and Ayn-es-Safra, shutting out the great Nineveh plain. We observe, however, a conical pile, just capping above the ridge, and are told it is Keremlis, a structure of an unknown age and people. This glimpse of a past generation increases an anxiety for a. nearer inspection; but we descend into the glen of the Ghazr by an easy decline, and find ourselves shut out from all beyond it. Here an ancient tumulus, called Tel Aswad by the Arabs, and Minkubi by Rich, points perhaps to the position of a keep that anciently guarded the ford of the Ghazr, which stream becomes at times a fractious torrent, quite impassable to caravans. When we passed it was brawling over pebbly beds in different channels. We had to make a long detour in search of the most shallow places, and some amusing incidents were derived from the alarm of our Bagh- dadis, as, with their clothes drawn up to the chin, they endeavoured to stem the torrent. An hour brought us on the level of the ridges t0 the west, and the Nineveh plain, its habitations, and singular tumuli, were at once spread out before us ,' but the capital still lay hid behind the undulations which border the Tigris to the east. Here the green mea- dows of the insecure tracts are, exchanged for the ridge and furrow peculiarities of tilled laud, interspersed with the hamlets of a compae ratively civilised people, which, pleasing enough in the prospects they hold out to the owners, afford at this season but a dull track for the traveller, especially when softened by the moisture of constant rains. The pace is thus a heavy one to the city, and is much lengthened, for the upper way has to be kept near the base of the isolated hill of Ayn-es-Safra, which has on its summit the remains of a Christian church, dedicated to Mar Daniel, a venerable pastor of an early Chris? tian period. The hill is sometimes known by the latter name, but the former, “the bile fountain,” is its real appellation, derived from a sulphur spring at its base, which is said to possess remedial proper— ties in hepatic derangements of the system. Birtullah is next passed, Which we are informed is a Christian village. This boasts of a stone TOPOGRAPHY 0F NINEVEH. 355 house, that had been a few years ago the pretty mansion of a Mosul pasha ; and an oblong building of stone, on the east of the hamlet, is pointed out as the church dedicated to the Virgin, who with the Syrians, Jacobites, and 'Chaldean Catholics in all this tract, has even a higher ve-neration than is accorded to her by similar sects in the West. . But we must pass on, as a drizzling rain is urging us to shelter our- selves in the city, and besides shuts out the features in the landscape around. We shall, however, pass them again ,' in the meantime we ascend the undulations near the hamlet Kojak, and, for the first time, I see the Tigris again, since quitting it at Baghdad. On the west of it the domes and minarets of Mosul are dimly visible through a driziling * mist, and prostrate before us are the walls of the celebrated city whose history but a short time ago lay buried in the piles on either hand. We Sweep past the white tomb, which bears the name of the mis- sionary of Nineveh, erected on the summit of one of them 3 and, ere the reverie we have fallen into is well commenced, it is broken again by the clattering of our cattle’s feet over the boards of the floating bridge which connects the living city with the dead. Thus, fairly in the muddy Streets of Mosul, we add 130 the bustle and animation which prevails, even on such a miserable wet day. We were, however, soon housed in the comfortable room of the lady1 whose hospitality is so generously dispensed at Mosul, and at her table were introduced to 'two of the members2 of the commission sent to explore the antiqui- ties of Mesopotamia by the government of France. Through the zeal of Colonel Rawlinson, and the activity of our friend Layard, these learned savans will, we fear, find themselves forestalled. In the ,evening we inspected the gold mask, vases, gold earrings, necklace, and other curious relics daily obtained from Koiyunjik, as well as a vast amount of written tablets, lying stored for (transmission to Eng- land. There was ,also a gold Coin of Tiberius Cwsar, fOund near a tOmb, a relic, doubtless, of Roman occupation. ‘For the'three Subsequent days we were prisoners, as it Were, in Mosul. ‘It‘rained incessantly day and night, and though nothing could be'atten’ipted in the field, our route from Baghdad was well calculated ‘ and protracted within‘doors. With a limited time only, it was neces— sary to do something, and on March 12th we acCordi’ngly moved out, indefiance of the wet, and pitched our camp "in the swamp at the foot 6f the Koiyunjik mound. Colonel Rawlinson had joined us «the day before, on a tour of inspection of the work 'now in progress by excava- ting parties. The ‘13th, however, gave promise of amendment in the 1 Mrs. Rassam. 2 Messrs. Fresnel and Oppert. \ 356 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. weather, and, as soon as the ground was fairly dry, the base for future operations was measured, and piles, where needed for triangulation, were erected in the neighbourhood. Angles too, were taken at the principal points, and the heights of the mounds of Nebi Yunus and Koiyunjik ascertained. The next day, being Sunday, the people rested, but we were com- pelled to proceed with the construction of the map, or,_with the short time at our disposal, coupled with the wet weather, we should never complete the work in hand. The latitude of our principal position was well ascertained to-day, by the sun’s favouring us for awhile, and the azimuths for meridian values were procured also. Thus we had fairly commenced 3 and while our labours were in progress on and around the mound, the French artists attached to M. Fresnel’s party were occupied in sketching the sculptures. March 15. Daybreak. We were on the mound of Koiyunjik, and managed to procure the first round of good angles, it being a brilliant clear morning. These enabled ten principal positions to be calculated and plotted on the map, and by the time these were finished, the hour was convenient for corroborating the latitude of the previous day. This differed but one second from that of yesterday, and was thus far satisfactory. While this was in operation, the French consul, M. Place, made a visit to the camp from Khorsabad, which he is still excavating with but little success. Colonel Rawlinson had, however, gone to visit the pasha, and in the afternoon we traced in the whole of the western wall of Nineveh, south of the Khosr, measuring it and its curves with a chain the whole way. From its contour it is evident the Tigris once flowed along it, into the position it now holds south of the city. March 16. The great mound of Koiyunjik was measured around the base with the chain. The bed of a stream to the north, and the present channel of the Khosr to the east, show that it was encircled by a stream of water, and appearances suggest its having been led in from the north-east angle of the city wall. There is a dried-up well near the mill of Armushiyeh, where the stream seems to have bifurcated in olden times. This work was placed on the map in the forenoon, and the latitude was again ascertained, but 4” less than yesterday. In the afternoon the northern alignment of the walls of Nineveh were traced in their rectangular form, and the debris of edifices within marks the principal ones as having existed there. Visited the north gateway, which we designated “the porch of Bulls.” The mound on its eastern side has been opened by Layard, and the interior exposes a magnificent sight to those entering suddenly from without, for colossal bulls of an excellent form, with human heads crowned with the #1")? 2w Toroennrnr or NINEVEH.‘ 357 peculiar tiara of K-oiyunjik, stand in grim and stately majesty in the depth of the caverns of the wall. These are unfinished, as if the sculptor had suddenly dropped his chisel and fled in alarm. Most of our party were inclined to take the same course, and, certainly, an indescribable feeling of awe seems to creep over one while contem- - plating the groups in the mysterious position they occupy. Our Arabs christened them “Jemas,” or “Buffaloes,” being the animals “they are acquainted with as most resembling them in size. From this position the wall was carried over the natural rock ridges of the country; and a little beyond the highest part we observed the spur to have been cut through to form a moat for the protection of the north side of the city, in connection with the works of a similar kind on the east face. The survey to-day was completed as far as the Khosr’s passage through the east wall, the height of which was ascertained as given in the general sketch. Returning to the camp along the Khésr’s'course we suddenly came upon a party of young girls, who had selected a nook of the stream to bathe in out of the direction of the usual roads. Like water nymphs, some dived, while others hid themselves, as they thought, from view, by assuming a crouching attitude with their hands concealing the face, like the ostrich imagining itself hidden when itself blind to exterior objects around.» It is evident they had not anticipated the prying eye of the surveyor ' so close to them, for their clothes were at a distance and could not be reached without a greater exposure, so they quietly maintained their attitude, and the laughing of those swimming in the water told of the enjoyment afforded by the discomfiture of their companions. It was a pretty sight, however, and the water streaming from their long jetty hair down their fair and supple figures, glistening wet in the burning - sun, offered a feature of modern Na'iads such as is seldom seen, and, moreover, sadly deficient in the human groups represented in the ancient halls in their vicinity. Those Assyrians, we suspect, were a jealous and crusty race, or they would have favoured us with a few full—length specimens of their “ womankind.” ' ‘ March 17. Operations were continued around the mound of Nehi Yfinus, and its entire circumference measured with the chain, to the amusement. of the villagers who inhabit the modern buildings contiguous to the tomb of Jonah. They offered, however, no Vmol-estat‘ion ; and a loquacious “Syed,” after assuring us on his own authority that Nineveh in reality stood here, volunteered a mass of information quiteforeign to that sought ; but he pointed out an old course of the Khésr, contiguous to the west wall of Nineveh, which ~- We subsequently traced to the deserted bridge of three arches stand-- 358 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. ing on the plain 3 showing that this rivulet changed its course to its present outlet into the Tigris not very long ago. After breakfasting at the camp and placing the morning’s work upon paper, we pro— ceeded to the east wall, south of the Khésr, where we left off yester- day, and traced it to-day as far as the conspicuous mounds which rise high above the wall where cut through by the Keremlis road. Here parties were employed extracting the finely-cut blocks of stone which seem to form the base of the mural defences of Nineveh. These bear mostly a Cuneiform legend of a line or two only. The examination of the various fosses that defended the capital, occupied the afternoon. They are certainly well designed for their purpose, and when the dams were properly attended to must have surrounded the capital with a triple belt of water in this part, or, when necessary, isolated it altogether from the contiguous country, in the midst of a large lake. Other stations were taken up today on the hill of Arbachiyeh for extending the triangulation. We had from this a full view'of the plain as far as Khorsabad. The shady green slopes of the ancient tumuli contrasted with the lively verdure of the fields, and the White tomb and mud structures of the present population, in a remarkable and pretty manner, rendering the several objects very distinct in the telescopes of our theodolites, though we experienced much difficulty in naming them for angular values from the stupidity of our guides. On our return, as night set in, we suddenly missed one of our party,- as if he had been spirited away. We scurried over the plain and ascended the dykes in every direction without success; and while bewildered and alarmed at his abrupt disappearance at that hour, he stood at our feet in the grey dusk and silence of evening as if by enchantment. We had forgotten the little grotto of Demlamajeh and the pure water of Thisbe’s fountain commemorated by Rich. Our friend, however, had not, and being thirsty after the_day’s fatigue, he had dropped suddenly into the deep trench where it exists, unknown to the party preceding him, and, to our relief, as suddenly emerged again when we were in real alarm for his safety. The night- threatened to be a wet one, and the clouds, accumulating in heavy masses on the Kurdistan hills, augured. ill for our operations on the morrow. We found on our arrival at the tents a company of dancing _ boys preparing for our amusement, but being able to dispense with the disgusting performances of this class of Turkish hybrids, they were dismissed, much to the chagrin of themselves and their native admirers. March 18. The circuit of the ancient city was completed by measuring the walls in the south-east quarter, to the dam, the remains TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 359 of which are yet visible in the bed of the Tigris, on the south of the city. Yaremjeh, an ancient pile, was visited and its position ascer- tained from angles on its summit. These, too, extend our triangula- tion to the east and south-east. .The pile itself has been washed by the Tigris many centuries back, and may, indeed, occasionally, in periods of inundation, still stand in the flood. Half of it has been swept away, exposing a section in which pottery and large limestone ’ slabs form alternate strata with about eight, feet of earth. The artificial portion is quite distinct from the marl and loam formation of the original clifl' it reposes on, and puzzled us much in conjectures relative to its construction and use. Rich says the natives regard it as the “potteries of Nineveh,” suggested to them, doubtless, by the quantity of urns embedded in the soil, which, however, led us to conclude its origin was owing to the use of the site during a long period as a N ecropolis for the dead, as at present. The top is covered with graves and tombs, and a village of the name stands on the neck connecting it with the cliff, formed by the wash of the Tigris in a remote period. The margin of the river, its islands and sand-banks, were traced on our way back to camp. ‘ March 19. The storm that had been impending the last twenty- four hours burst on us last night, and before morning our camp and the village of Armushiyeh were as isolated positions in a “ Slough of Despond.” The heavy squalls threatened to blow the tent down, and it required all our ingenuity to sleep within the compass of an umbrella spread out to shelter us from the drippings from the roof. It was impossible to map in such a damp atmosphere. We, therefore, betook ourselves to the saddle, and the day partially clearing enabled V us to transfer the northern plain, with its villages and river face, to the map. On this many edifices doubtless stood in an Assyrian age; for the present villages of Bé-’Aowireh, Beysan, Reshidiyeh, Sherif- khén, and Gubbeh1 are known to have relics of the times thickly spread in the soil on which they are built. The monastery of Mar Georgiz or J orjez stands at a distance, like a castellated mansion of the Crusade era, on an ancient tumulus; and the portion of a quadrangle a little south of it, near the elevated ridges, points to an Assyrian position half swept off by the floods. The mound at . Sherif—khau, or Sheri Khan as it is now corrupted, has proved to be a temple of Sennacherib’s, and the remains of a fine canal on the east of ”it 'would seem formerly to have led the waters of the Tigris to Nineveh after it was abandoned by the stream. A fine cylinder, 1 7'. ' . 3. “no Jude - UM - eta—t»; — ab we,» — e.” VOL. xv. 2 C, 360 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. some valuable tablets, and other curious trifies, have been found here, but no sculptures that we know of. We were caught in a heavy thunder-storm, and had to take shelter in the village of Beysan, where we were invited into a smoke- begrimed hovel, destitute of conveniences of every. kind. It was evident the inmates cared for nothing but mere animal existence; and as we are by no means particular, we lit our pipes and listened to the conversation of the groups which soon assembled around. A Baghdad pundit astonished the community with his tales, fully believed by the ignorant and unwashed villagers of this district. A Suni himself, his sarcasms were particularly levelled against the Shiahs, whom he accused of every crime against God and man, confounding them in his category of infidels with the singular classes who form the population of Reshidiyeh and Sherif-khan. These villagers are of the “ Ila Ilahi” persuasion, or, as they are named here, Cheragh Sunderans, or “extinguishers of light,” from their religious ceremonies being mysteriously conducted in the dark, and hence are attributed to them the orgies which are said to have been i enacted on the festivals of Venus, both in Greece and Babylonia. The license that is said to pertain amongst them we are not prepared to deny ,' we believe it, however, to be much exaggerated by those not admitted to their Observances, which exclude all other sects. They are an inoffensive people, and, while tenacious of the intrusion of others on their belief, they readin enough cloak their true religion by the profession of Mahomedanism, perhaps dreading the persecutions which they have been too often subjected to. We shall allude to‘ them again presently, and in the mean time hasten back to our camp, . having been debarred visiting their villages by the furious squall which lasted for two hours, in which hailstones formed of transparent crystals of ice on the outside, had, as a nucleus, a pellet of snow within. We had never witnessed them of such a size, the largest which we measured being an inch and a half in diameter. Our horses, exposed as they were, became frantic with the pelting they received, and tried hard to break away 3 one, indeed, succeeded in doing so, and scoured through the swampy loam of the plain as if wild with torture and affright. The next day was one of pitiless rain, accompanied by heavy gusts of wind , and, as nothing could be accomplished in furtherance of the survey, we devoted it to exploring in the bowels of Koiyunjik, in the vaults and temples of which we were, in some measure, sheltered from the downapour above, though our progress was, rat—like, through the drains below. ' We Were greatly entertained, however, with the TOPOGRAPHY 0F NINEVEH. 36‘]. scenes opened to our view. The galleries from hall to hall, tunnelled out by Layard, exhibit sculptured has-reliefs on all sides. We see the mode of transporting the colossal bulls from place to place by the Assyrians, and the order of march of their armies, in which the various corps are distinguished by peculiar equipments of arms and dress. Descriptive scenery of the country passed through is detailed with a minute regard to local features, and the animal and vegetable produc- . tions are delineated on the shores, or in the rivers and seas adjacent to the line of march. Here are crabs, fish, and tortoises ,' land and aquatic birds, and a variety of trees and shrubs, either spread on the plain, or covering the sides of the hill paths, in the branches of which are perched the nests and younglings of the feathered tribe, craving for food, or essaying a flight on their own account, in the true fashion of nature. The entrances to the halls are guarded by colossal bulls, and watched over by various demi-gods in the Assyrian mythology, of which the biped merman 0r mermaid is the most genteel, habited as it is in a scaly robe, terminating in a fin-tailed skirt of great elegance and propriety of curve. In the king’s apartment we have the monarch occupying the state chair, surrounded by regal emblems, among which the tent, chariot, and umbrella are conspicuous. He wears the peculiar tiara of the Koiyunjik sovereigns, something resembling the head of the Persian of the present day. Before him his chamberlain is offering gifts, - While captives are kneeling in supplication, emblematic of his power in life and death. Then are displayed a long string of prisoners, and the spoils of war, attended both by horse and foot, among whom is observed a cart drawn by oxen, bearing sacks of plunder, whereon are seated tender women, not wanting in maternal solicitude, though absorbed in the contemplated horrors of the fate awaiting them. Con- ’ solation appears to be derived from the kisses bestowed on the infants in their arms, and we envy while we admire the mind of the Assyrian sculptor, who, amid the stirring scenes he has pourtrayed, has not for- gotten the emotions which characterised humanity, even in the fiercer ages of War and blood. Other females follow on foot behind, and are distinguished from eunuchs by their loose robes and long hair, the lat- ter being habited in; girdles, and conspicuous by elaborate bushiness of ‘tonsure, though the faces of both are alike smooth and undignified. N ext are camels laden With booty, attended by an armed escort. Then follow the regular troops, those helmeted and plumed, bearing a lance, sword, and dagger, comprise the heavy-armed legions, in advance of the archers and slingers, both of which bodies are faithfully represented by their weapons, and by a lighter dress and gait on the march.\ ‘The » siege operations against a doomed city are next shewn on a centre 2 C 2 362 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. panel; the ladders are placed against the wall, and some who have ascended are hurled headlong from the battlements, while torches, stones, and other missiles, are discharged from the works on those below, with the intention of destroying the engines which are being pushed up an inclined plane, in contiguity to the walls, so that the people concealed within can undermine while protected from the enemy. There is the “ testudo,” serving as a shield before the archers, to render their aim more sure and deadly than it would otherwise be. Similar operations are designed on the walls of another apartment, which perhaps was dedicated to Victory. The entrance is by a narrow way, flanked with the portraits of two hideous griffin-headed monsters, menacing with a mace in one hand and a short dagger in the other, preceded by a human figure with extended arms, as if denouncing vengeance against the rebellious subjects of the great king. Here the besieged city has fallen, and the punishment of the refractory inhabi- tants is witnessed in the impalements and slaughter going on around. Women and children are flying by a postern door for safety in the neighbouring glens, and the whole is, perhaps, as true a picture of Assyrian government as can be desired. The much-disfigured remains of two somewhat diminutive elephants are not far removed from this hall. From their high position in the mound, we suspect them to have originally occupied a loftier post in the edifices of Koiyunjik, and their disfiguration seems also to imply their exposure for a great length of time. We think them creations of an age subsequent to that of the temples adjoining, from the above surmises coupled with the appear- ance of an inferiority both in design and execution, when compared with the majestic forms of similar animals at no great distance to the north of them: we mean those of the colossal homotaurs, in the great “ hall of bulls.” Though defaced at present, the attitude and propor- tions of these display majesty and dominion in no common degree, and arranged as they are in stern array in the dark caverns of Koiyunjik, closely attended by the castigating and lion-crushing figure of the Assyrian Hercules, we confess to a feeling which partook of mingled admiration and alarm, though not usually taken aback by such or any other prodigies. We were somehow impressed with the idea that the presiding genius of the temple would momentarily issue from the dark labyrinths beyond, and demand the reason of our intru- sion. Our flesh crept indeed at the thought of the forty stripes save one, which might be inflicted by the sentence of. a “baker’s dozen” from a lictor, armed with a tribracheated weapon such as he grasps.1 ‘ He is armed with a “ cat o’three tails ;” an instrument squared upon to suit modern ideas for the maintenance of discipline. » \ TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 363 Certainly as works of. art they are fine creations of mind and chisel, and we are at no loss to conceive the illiterate multitudes of that day prostrating themselves before images like these, when we see the Christian community of the present time reverencing the puerile pro- ductions of the most degraded art, as displayed on the walls of the churches in the immediate neighbourhood, 1 and, indeed, in all parts of the East. The chambers and galle1ies of Koiyunjik that have been opened, exhibit also a mass of 1ecords 1n the Cuneifonn characte1, both separate and attached to the sculptures 5 and will doubtless yield more, if properly excavated. We have an idea that other works of a still more primitive age lie entombed beneath” the floors of the present apartments, which we thought were considerably above the base of the -mound. Not a third of this large pile has yet been systematically examined, and we shall soon have to deplore the wreck of the sculp— tures already exposed, for calcined as they are, from the effects of fire, they must moulder and fall from the positions they occupy 3 nor will they bear removal from the walls. March 21 was devoted to investigating the positions 011 the west of the river, but we had some difficulty in getting there, owing to the flooded state of the Khosr and Tigris in the last three days. The former we forded, with the water up to our saddle-flaps, and the latter was crossed in the ferry-boat, after much delay, owing to the rapidity of the current. The bridge, warped over to the western shore, now floated useless, in a sheltered position alongside the houses of Mosul. In the ferry—boats horses and men are promiscuously jumbled at much risk, particularly when one of the former may be viciously disposed, which happened in this case. To keep the peace, however, water had to be sprinkled among them, and, in a short time, when the splashing of the oars and the shouting commenced, in order to extort “ bakshish”2 from the passengers, their vice had subsided in alarm, at their own' , position on the moving flood. We were struck at the number of dumb people employed as ferrymen 1n Mosul, and, for our own part, c0uld have Wished the proportion still greater. It would have saved the pressure on the tympanum, which pained us greatly, while subject to the din occasioned by the shouts and anathemas that were bandied about by the mob , but we found ourselves at last on the other side, 1 None can look upon the daubs hung up in the monastery of Mar J OI‘JIZ, or 1n other similar edifices, without painful evidence of the low standard of the Christian mind here. 2 An Arabicised Persian word from L‘) 3 1. " 4‘ “to beston” ? It' 1s in com- mon use allover Egypt, Syria, and other parts of Asia Minor, where it- implies “l'1rge=se. 364 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. and proceeded to the great minaret of the city. Through the civility of Syed Mustafa, the holy personage in charge of the mosque, we were allowed to ascend the lofty column, which overlooks the whole plain to the base of the mountains, and beyond the Zéb also. Nimrnd and , the various positions were clearly in view, and we had the gratification of obtaining a good round of angles, which corroborated every position we had independently determined. The mulla’s people gave us all the information we desired. Our proceedings, however, furnished scope for speculation in the townspeople below ,‘ some thought we were looking for a position to plant guns upon against the town, which it is thought we are not long hence to occupy 3 while others turned over the idea of the ruined mosque being required for a Christian church, when that event should take place 5 it having been the site of one, we believe, before the Mahomedan invasion of the country. The present building was raised by Noor-ed-din, in the 755th year of the Hejrah. The double spiral staircase is still in good repair, but the column itself is somewhat bent, and shaky in appearance. The architecture displays the neat and compact brickwork of most of the older Saracenic build- ings, in fine preservation for its age.1 Our next proceeding was to stroll carelessly through the northern quarter of the town, and it being a Sunday afternoon, we derived some pleasure from the appearance of the gay groups of Christian ladies and children, dressed in every variety of colour, seated in the green grass which overspreads the open part of Mosul, from a little north—east of the great central mosque to the walls on the north. The men, in black turbans, were congregated in knots at a distance beyond. Their amusements were not, however, derived from conversation alone 3 for we observed a passing bottle and heads alternately thrown back contribute a little to the exhilaration of the parties, though there were no gross exhibitions to offend. We were saluted respectfully, in passing onwards to the Bélsh-Ta’tbiyeh,2 a mo— dern pile of some strength and elevation, forming the north-east angle of the Mosul walls. This is said to be built on the foundations of the old monastery of Mar Gabriel, a Christian edifice of early times. It is Washed by the Tigris when high, and stands seventy-five feet above the cliffs, near which are some sulphur springs, called ’Ayn-al—Kabrit,3 bordering the stream. Bash-Tabiyeh is in some repute as a dungeon of more than ordinary strength and depth. We did not test it by a descent into its vaults, but passed gradually onwards, along the ram— 1 Upwards of five centuries. 2 Turkish, signifying “chief bastion; ”Mm Dub 3 M 1A1” U755 Arabic. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 365 parts of the town, to the Sinjar gate,1 every bastion of which, and indeed around the whole town, was duly added to the map in the evening. -The wall is a simple looped curtain, of no great strength, supported by irregular. semilunar «bastions, varying in size, having a ditch, on an average of twenty feet in depth by fifty broad, beyond it. The positions of the principal tombs and public mosques were also carefully ascertained, as well as those of the gates on all sides of the ‘ city. The pasha’s private residence, and the barracks for the artillery, stand on the margin of the Tigris, to the south—east of the walls, and the arsenal, or Top-Khaneh,2 intermediate between them and the gateway called Baib-et-Tépef’ or “Gate of the Gun,” near the water entrance to the town. Some little distance east of the Tép-Khaneh is the venerated mosque of Khidhr Elyas, one of the many buildings dedicated to the prophet of that name distributed over the Mahomedan empire.‘ To the west again is the tomb of antediluvian Seth, or that of some one who has usurped the honours of his name and burial. Nebi Allah Shyth,‘5 “Seth, the prophet of God,” is the title given him by all sects, and, from the concourse of people visiting the shrine, it is one of more than ordinary sanctity. These tombs, and the public buildings as above enumerated, south-east of the town, are very pic— turesque objects at a distance, but a nearer approach shews the former surrounded by the huts and tents of the miserable population of the suburbs; and the distant beauty of the pasha’s residence and barracks is dispelled by the want of regularity in the design of the wings, which appear to haVe been pitched upon the main buildings as circumstances suggested the necessity for their construction. Yet, we believe, they were actually planned as they stand. Taste, however, is purely con- ventional in Turkey, whether as regards architecture or costume, indi— vidual convenience being more consulted than elegance of design 5 and in the cut of “in‘expressibles” they have, in our opinion, the advantage ' of us in both respects. There is a tolerable market beyond the walls, on this side of the town, and the bazaars within are well supplied with fruits and grain, both of which are plentiful and cheap at all times. The houses are superior to those of Baghdad, inasmuch as they are Jl‘simli gig Bab-es-sinjar. 2 MB 9:119 Turkish- 39);,“ 6.9L? Compound Arabic and Turkish 4 It 1s known also as the J ama-al-ahhmar, or “ red mosque,” though its snow- white appearance belies its name. Al to"? 5 ‘ A .3 3-, Al.“ L535 Arabic. 366 TOPOGRAPHY . or NINEVEH. built of limestone and a coarse gypsum, abounding at no great distance. - The streets are not however to our taste, being narrow, irregular, and cobbled with a huge pebble, most inconvenient to the feet of both horse and foot, especially after heavy rains. Cemeteries exist in the open parts of the town within the walls, but amply stocked burial- grounds border the town ditch, from the Béb-es-Sinjar to the tomb of Seth eastward. There are a few raised tombs on these mounds of corruption, the principal of which are named Penjeh, 35b, and Kathyb-al—Ban, uLfdl M. Our occupation obliged us to take stations near some of the graves, and we were much disquieted in our task by the plaintive cries which recently-bereaved women were uttering over their buried relatives beneath. One young and strikingly handsome creature heeded not our presence, absorbed as she was in her grief. Her heart seemed breaking indeed, by the depth of her sobs, as she threw herself at full length on the ground and embraced the envied soil which separated her from the departed. We quitted the scene of such lamentation, glad enough to recross the Tigris, to our camp in the desolations of Nineveh; but we shall return to Mosul again, after the completion of operations to the south. Having spent an intermediate day in laying down the preliminaries requisite for the construction of Sheet III. of the vestiges of \Assyria, we struck the camp at Koiyunjik, and were in full march for Nimrnd, on the morning of March 23. Crossing the Kho’sr, now much subdued, we kept near its old bed, along the west wall of Nineveh, and then ascended the undulations beyond the ravine, to the south of it, in a direction for the village of Kara-qush, (“ black eagle.”‘) The road lay past the hamlets of Kojak,2 and Eytler-koi ,3 which latter borders on a defile and torrent coming from the plains and rising grounds to the north—east. These as well as most of the villages in the Mosul district have reservoirs for accumulating rain-water in their vicinity. Some “ hubara,” a species of bustard, were here and there observed on the route. They were, however, too wary for our guns, but we neverthe— less enjoyed a breakfast “ al fresco” 'on the heights, in which Soyer’s patent stove was brought into action with success. We pushed on again, stopping to take angles occasionally for determiningthe posi- tion of the Lak-koi4 and Aliresh5 villages. Near the former, another A ravine with a torrent is passed, over a substantial bridge built by a liberal and pious Arab, as a charitable work. An inscription records 1 ’0‘.‘ my); Turkish. 2 «5,3 3 9'5)§jl-M“"l Turkish. d . 4 5.53; dd Turkish. 5 at.) LJL: Persian? TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 3671 the name and purpose of the founder, and a fine ancient “ teppeh”l stands on the slope of the ridge, not far distant from it, in the direc- tion of the village. The map, however, shews the situation of these as well as other places ; we therefore confine ourselves to noting the beauty of the country, which in this season can scarcely be equalled. The gentle slopes of the ridges are of an emerald green, set off by herds of antelopes gamboling in the distance, and large flocks of sheep enjoying the pastures on every hand. A plentiful variety of flowers diversifies the picture; and though we were in the saddle the whole day until dark, in taking up new positions for the survey, we experienced no fatigue. As night set in. we reached the camp, pitched in a clear open spot, near a reservoir at the Christian village of Kara—(lush, which occupies the crumbled mounds of some ancient position we are still ignorant of. We seemed objects of much curiosity to these people, and were favoured with the glances of the fresh ruddy-faced girls, that passed to and fro with their pitchers, for filling at the reservoirs. Their open smiling countenances offered a pleasing contrast to those of the shy and sallow beauties in the towns. They were evidently amused at our proceedings, and we thought were quizzing our whimsical costumes. The men stalked about, morose, yet silently inquisitive, though keep— ing at a respectful distance. This seemed odd, considering we were Christians like themselves, and had anticipated a far different recep- tion, when our wanderings should throw us among those of the name. It proved otherwise however. In every Christian village we came to we found the men abrupt in character and speech. The courtesy . generally experienced by the Englishman from all sects and classes of Mahomedans was absent in the Christian villagers, who strolled about with a “brusquerie” that was marked, if not openly annoying. T he priests of the community kept aloof, nor did the head men, as is the custom in Mahomedan places, ask the stranger if there was anything needed to his wants. It appeared mysterious, and after witnessing similar behaviour subsequently in other places, we set the Christians down as the most thoroughly unenlightened sect in the Turkish empire. They certainly enjoy a greater freedom here than in other parts of the same territory, and rudeness may therefore be partly the result of comparative independence ; but we have since thought, in connection 'With the accounts we have heard, that much which we witnessed was due to our persuasion as protestants alone. Led by the priesthood, , and protected by the Roman-catholic powers, this may happen with the “‘ Mound,” ml; Turkish. ? 368 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. ignorant; nor can we well express surprise at it, when the better edu- cated of the clergy here, to suit their own purposes of exclusivenessw as was lately the case at Diarbekir—seek to injure the protestant missionaries of America in the opinion of the Turkish authorities, by insinuations latently propagated by themselves. , March 24. The caravan was dispatched as yesterday, by the road leading direct from Kara-qush to Nimrud, while we continued our survey. Before proceeding, however, we visited the outside of the Syrian catholic church dedicated to the Virgin for the purpose of examining the Cuneiform—inscribed bricks brought from the neigh- bourhood of Keremlis, for the repairs of the building. These bricks looked quite fresh and new, and, according to Colonel Rawlinson, were impressed with the name and titles of Sargon. Prayers were perform- ing in the church, in a monotonous chaunt; and booted as we were, we had no curiosity to enter. The interior of the village, and costume of the people gave, however, no favourable idea of their wealth or clean- liness, and we passed on, concerned at the prospect presented by the first Christian village we had alighted on. A wet sponge appeared to have been drawn across the brilliant clear sky of the previous evening, and exposed us to passing showers. Bellawat,1 an artificial mount, lay on our left, where we proceeded for angles, which we got from the summit of one of the two tombs built upon it. It is sometimes named Kara-teppeh,2 or “ black mound 3” the former name being also that of a village a little to the south-east of it. The appearance of a ditch surrounds the pile, and inclines us to regard it as an ancient keep or stronghold, for the protection of the fine valley watered by the small rivulet, which, coming from the ’Ayn-es-Safra hill, flows past Keremlis and Kara—(lush onwards to Nimrud, and an imperfectly defined cause. way, from the mound across the ditch, in some measure confirms the idea. Rape in full blossom covered the bed of the latter, in pretty relief to the dark mound and green sward beyond. Plou‘ghed fields and cultivation cease below this point, where the territory of the roving Arab is entered upon. The tents of a party of Dellim3 were, indeed, adjoining the mound, and we had scarcely dismounted when the chief rode up, and courteously invited us to his camp, in the follow~ ing terms : “ Peace be upon you ! in the name of God enter our tents ,' they are yours; come and partake of what we can lay before you.” The words of the Mussulman robber, empty as they may have proved, w 1 .. ~ . . 2 ... . . 9‘13“. Arab1c WE, Turlush 3 These are of the same tribe as the great family of the name owning the ter- ritory on both sides of the Euphrates, between Felugia and Hit. Blood feuds have caused them to separate. - 'VTOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 369 sOunded grateful on our ears, and cast a deeper shade over the Chris- ‘ tian picture we had just left; for the courteous frankness of the Arab contrasted well with the surly silence of him who has had the Samaritan for a guide. ‘ i We had breakfasted again “alfresco,” and resumed our movements ' onwards to KhidhrLElyas,1 a Christian church, over a piece of country hitherto vacant in our maps. Rain fell, and we bent our steps towards the building of the above name, partly from curiosity, and partly to _ shelter ourselves under its roof. We could not, however, gain admit- tance, the low and strong door being fastened, and all our shouts proved abortive in procuring answers from within. Some of our ' people proposed to fire the gate, but this, of course, we would not per- mit, and after waiting patiently for an hour, we quitted the spot, having examined the sacristy, partly sunk under ground, in the base of an Assyrian mound near the chapel. This is a much—revered spot, where Mar Behnan, or, as it is more properly spelt, Mar Behnam,2 an early Christian martyr, is said to he interred. It dates as far back as about the third century of Christ, and is, perhaps, one of the oldest sanctuaries now standing devoted to Christian Observances. It bOasted formerly of an excellent library, and has still, we believe, one or two pictures of holy personages, by the early masters, though they are at present torn and defaced. From without it has the appearance only of a stronghold, there being nothing in character to denote it as the abode of religion and peace. It has, indeed, on many occasions had to stand a siege, in the precarious position it holds, subject to the assaults and demands both of the Bedouins and the Turkish soldiery. ‘ We observed people moving off as we approached, and the adjoining villages were tenantless also 5 a sure sign of alarm, perhaps caused by our movements from hill to hill, in furtherance of our work. The sacristy is a neat circular apartment, ornamented with marble pieces, erucifixes, and inscriptions in the Estrangelo character. It is said to be connected with the chapel by a subterraneous passage, similar to that which leads from the outside to the interior of itself. This we . could not hit upon, and we heard it had been blocked up when the Turkish soldiery on one occasion tore up the marble floor, in search of treasure said to be Concealed there. Marble ornaments, inscriptions, and scrolls of great beauty, are reported in the fittings of the altar and chancel of the church itself 3 all of which bear a very early date, andvare much—esteemed relics. We were, thereof, disappointed at not viewing the interior. The inmates, ignorant of our intentions, acted 1 WU“ .391 "I‘ The prophet Elias.” ’1 (UM “ good name.” -> Persian. 0‘ J 370 TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEVH. wisely in maintaining a strict concealment. But they were evidently watching our proceedings, as when we got about musket-shot 03 they shewed themselves on the walls, and had we returned and urged an entry a second time, it would perhaps have led to an open fight. Some of our Roman-catholic servants, indeed, some days after proceeded with the intention of praying there, and had nigh been shot for their zeal, by the Friar Tuck order of monks who watch over its security. Khidhr Elyas, the name of the prophet Elias, is a mere “nom de guerre,” given to the place by the Christian priesthood in troubled periods, to enlist the sympathies of the Mahomedans, who venerate all the inspired personages of Jewish history and tradition. ‘ We now bent our steps along the valley of the Sh6r Derreh,1 on the same track, indeed, Which the harassed 10,000 Greeks doubtless took twenty-two centuries back, and in a short time stood on the crumbled walls around the palaces of Nimrfid. Crossing the great waste in the interior of the ancient city, a hare sprang from its seat among the mounds and afforded a burst for a few minutes 3 the horses were, however, too tired for a run over the ploughed lands, and puss ‘shewed she had the advantage, by soon doubling out of sight. We gave no more than a passing glance at the excavated palaces in the platform around the great pyramid, but made direct for the tents pitched near the mud hamlet of Nimri’id, where Layard so long had a ‘ dwelling, and within their walls worked-in our triangulations of the preceding days, previous to the commencement of further operations. March 25. The day broke with a threatening aspect, but after readjusting our instruments, the new base line was measured for the large-scale survey of N imrud exhibited on Sheet II. In the middle of our task the rain broke‘on us in a perfect storm, compelling us to return for shelter to our tents, and these afl'orded but a poor retreat. We were soon in the midst of a sea of water, the whole plain around being submerged by the torrents that fell. The Wind, too, blew a hurricane, and at one time, notwithstanding the ropes were “backed,” threatened to leave us exposed to its fury by carrying off the tents from above us; fortunately the gale took off in an hour or so, but everything was completely saturated. It required all our care, indeed, to keep the maps and instruments from being spoiled. Such a palpa- ble darkness at midday could seldom be witnessed; earth and sky seemed blended in one general gloom, as if the anger of the gods still rested on N imrud 3 the curse of Job in its fullest extent seemed, indeed, about to be realized while the storm lasted. The wild cats , .~. . . . . if)" J)“ Turkish for stagnant brackish water in ravmes. TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. 371 which infest the ruins were driven from their haunts, and coursed over the plain, through pool and mud, like “legion possessed” in search of a securer retreat in the mud hamlet adjoining. Further Operations it was evident were at an end for this day, but the morrow brought with it better auspices, and the base was completed, not a Without risk of rheumatism to the whole party. A good round of angleswas obtained from the summit of the great pyramid ,' these enabled us to compute its position independently of astronomical ob- V servations. These were, however, obtained also, and in a very satis- factory manner corroborated our triangulations; an agreement cer~ tainly not anticipated, considering the unfavourable weather we had ' encountered. From the summit of the pyramid the whole of the great plain is distinctly in view, but a few feet down the intervening laud shuts out every thing beyond the distance of a mile or so. This fact alone inclines us to think it was used as a pharos for signalling the places around 3 the trenches through it in every direction lead to the conclusion of its being a solid structure, such as is described by Layard‘. The great tablet lies in fragments on its south side, and a fine view of- the excavated galleries faced with sculptured slabs in the various palaces is obtained from this eminence. Mosul and the ruins of Nineveh are distinctly seen too, though at eighteen miles distance; as also the numerous Assyrian tumuli in the plains south-east of the Zzib. In the afternoon the Tel Kema1 was examined and added to the map, with the line of water-margin where the Tigris anciently flowed along the palaces of Nimrud to this spot. We experienced some difficulty, indeed, in extricating ourselves from the swamps . occasioned by'the waters of the Shér Derreh flowing into its bed. It was nightfall before we reached the tents. The following day was fine, and the,extent of the walls of Nimri’id was completed. .While effecting this, some party had set fire to the bitumen springs in the bed of the .Shér Derreh; the fumes and smoke tainted the Whole plain around—this practice appears to be a prevalent one with the idle Arabs in the vicinity. To-day, our horses exhibited much fatigue, from the necessity of visiting every spot in order to fix the positions aright. March 28. A leaden mantle had again been cast over the whole ‘ p sky, and shortly after daybreak rain fell in torrents, precluding all Works abroad; but the confinement served to bring up the map, and ‘theindoor work of calculations, &c. 1 L6 L}; “Truffle mound,” Arabic. 3'72 , TOPOGR-APHY' or NINEVEH‘. March 29. Raining still, and the effects of it beginning to tell on our wearied beasts as well as on ourselves. The best horse, indeed, appears in the last agonies, and various remedies are brought to bear on the case by our Arab friends , an old greybeard Moslem is called in to recite a particular verse from the Koran, adapted, as he says, to such accidents ,‘ but it failing, at young girl was produCed as a second- ary resource in such cases. Lifted by one of the bystanders, she was seven times placed astride on the prostrate animal, while the greybeard chanted anew the formula prescribed for such maladies. Still the horse remained obstinate, and would not recover, and at last a proposition was made to walk him thrice round the graveyard of the village, could he be only made to stand. By dint of blows and manual exertion, he was at last placed on his legs, and with difficulty dragged through the ceremony that was announced as a certain resto- rative. Alas, however, it was ineffective as the former, and elicited a laugh on the horse falling again, after the termination of the ordeal. This was conclusive of a want of faith in the infidel portion of the bystanders, and hence the failure of the remedies in the minds of our Arab friends. These facts are mentioned, only to show how simple Arab credulity is, and to what extravagant acts superstition will lead. An Arab of the Zobeyd, at no great distance, we are informed too, possesses a stone of wonderful powers in case of strangury; but‘the incredulity we had already displayed was sufficient reason for its being hid from us, as its properties, we were told, would certainly deteriorate, if exposed to such influences. Copious bleeding, however, brought about what the charms had failed to produce, and we were gratified in the evening, on our return from tracing the river’s banks to the northward, to find the animal again on his legs, though sadly enfeebled by his late exertions. The old beds of the river with its modern course, including the great dam at Awai, were traced-in "this ' day 5 the French party from Khorsabad were our guests for this evening. They had arrived in the morning and occupied the day in examination of the ruined chambers and palaces in the mounds of Nimrl’id. On this occasion a sheep was killed for the workmen by direction of Colonel Rawlinson, and the feast was enlivened by Arab chaunts,‘ and dancing to the sclind of the “ dumbek, ” the “ dafi“ ”1 and the lyre, kept up to a late hour. March 30. All nature is gay enough this morning under an un- clouded’sky, and many new and gorgeous flowers are opening under 1 Arab names for a species of drum. 0 fl , .mewnmwgu « TOPOGRAPHY or NINEVEH. ‘ 373 such influences, to be consigned, however, to a premature blight, as soon as their beauties attract the keen eye of our botanical companion. The earth over the ancient palaces was literally enamelled With the little delicate lily which, Colonel Rawlinson believes, gave its name to the celebrated Susa, or Shiishan of scripture. The ancient beds of the Tigris to the south were traced in to-day, the principal one being that of Sirat al ’bu—debban, or “ the prowler’s way,” which bears evidence of being occupied by the river for a very long period. It is now quite dry, and affords a species of broom used by the Arab women of the encampments around in the clay ovens hastily erected wherever these people pitch their tents. We passed many camps in . our wanderings of to-day, and were welcomed at all 5 men came forth inviting us to dismount, while women bore on their heads well- plenished bowls of buttermilk, which we did ample justice to under the fatigue we had undergone. The principal tribes, at present pas- turing on the Nimri’id plains, are the Shememteh or Shematteh, a branch of the great family Zobeyd, now occupying Babylonian ’Irak; the J eheysh, another part of the same great tribe, both separated for adong period ; the Agadat, which are members of the powerful tribes of the same name, owning the tract west of the Euphrates between Anah and Deir ,- .the Hadidin, originally from the Syrian plains about Aleppo and Antioch 3 the Al’bu-Bedran, another portion of the Zobeyd; the Al’ bu—Selman 3 the J aif ; and the Jebour. These are all, in fact, discontented members of larger tribes, who have sought asylums here, either from oppressions, or from having blood feuds of long standing with the more powerful families they are connected ‘ with, and are so far degraded as to have lost the Bedouin character and habits, still professed by some of the families they sprung from. . They are now but partially nomade, for they occupy mud villages in Winter, and wander in the spring only for the benefit of pasturing their flocks on the fertile lands adjoining these fine streams. The ' eastern suburbs of Nimri’id and valley of the Shér Derreh were added to the map to-d'ay. ' ‘ From this time to April the 14th, the minor details around Nimri’id were filled in, and the course of the ancient canal, leading from the zab, was traced as far as Gubbeyeh, a high mound with evident remains of building around it in the soil at the base 3 this is on the ' bank of the Zaib near its junction with the Tigris—it would, doubt- . less, yield Assyrian relics if opened. Near this are located a party of Ma’amreh Arabs, also! of the Zobeyd families: they are all Syed's or descendants of the Prophet, and, if we are to credit their own tale, 3’74 -TOPOGRAPHY* or NINEVEH. not robbers but simple “Momenin,” or those who prefer peace and the study of religious doctrines to violence and 'a predatory life. They had the appearance, indeed, of sanctified beggars in irags, as ' readyto steal as to pray 3 they were, nevertheless, well-disposed and courteous, living here in great dread of the Shamar Bedouins located in the wilds on the other side of the Tigris, who, they inform us, fre- quently cross, though the river is at a great height, and carry off all before them. A few nights ago three women of their party were suddenly set upon by a band that had crossed the flood on inflated skins: they were stripped of everything, and sent back to their tents “in puris naturalibus,” an outrage of only recent perpetration among true Bedouin families, who, by their rude laws, until very lately, under every provocation, spared women an indignity of this kind. Such atrocities shew how degraded the Bedouin has become, but in justice to him we must say they are committed in retaliation of injuries which the female members of his family have suffered at the hands of the Turkish soldiery when they have fallen into their power. We cannot be surprised, therefore, if the Bedouin virtues, under such examples, give way to acts that were formerly foreign to their nature. Our further operations among the ruins of Assyria must be summed up in outline, for we are pressed with time, and indisposition will not permit of a lengthened detail. Layard has treated so fully on these subjects that we should, indeed, be engrossing public attention to little purpose, were we to dwell further on these, at present, well known localities. The contents of his second volume, now put into our hands, warn us that we should stop, it will therefore suffice to say that the ruins of the ancient Assyrian town, now occupied by Sela- miyeh, were carefully surveyed, as were the features of the country, heretofore unknown, occupying the space between the Zéb and Khorsabad. The maps themselves, we trust, will be explicit enough on these points ,' and in concluding, we hope to add to our knowledge of these interesting regions by a more extensive examination, at a no very distant period. The hills bordering the Ghazr-su and the Zéb yet require more detailed notices; and the great ruins of Shemémek and Arbil, prolific as they are in ancient sites, should find a place in our maps, which, by—the-bye, are grievously faulty and defective as they at present stand. These we propose to amend as opportunities offer, and append to the present sheets some astronomical and geode- sical data, which, in connection with the work before us, will aid in filling a material blank. #2:“: # £de .8 $53352 afioama .ceham .8 wonazfigo one. .aaaoh umsmgm .3534 no EH2” m0 vmdom n£®>®EMZW 2%me 3 352 ~ .0h 2 @fidlmfifiu/NIA‘NEHOQ we“ aim Boga “@553; L . QDL cammaom 313 y £80 .0852 woow oi mo unmama .2528: use y -5? u a: £5 .3 Eggs: :22 $25 :3 3%., figs: 3% N44 .35} msfimNréSoZ @5ch .fifisgzéoz Ea:€fln§2 WEESQM J o t o .23 $3 .H NHQZHmnH< “3.52 H62 mwvawfi finch. wmfioz page? wknwz .5494 Ewnfim $2 axiom 33.3 .mm 0:. .3233 a. 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Mmda 62 33052335 33283835 £335 3m o+o+o+o+o+®v o+®o+o+ G $9“;qu :09qu .833 338823 823. 3:333 me 832an :35. 2: 3.3 39352 3322:» 335 was 38:35 3.3:; 2: 3o £83 353 83 €32 32.35 mo 25.55 .3 .Z 33an 25 we .3 .z 3:3 83 33.5% 25.338 53$ 25 «a $95 in 38.3 33205 as» .3 $550 as; we 23238 5.82 .383 .553 33253 :ENMAaEE 35:8 «.552 $3.3 a; .3 92.33 3:332 232233 .3535 eaN .333: of. no 3:03 a 032:3 .333 £224 95,633. .333. .334 _ is .333 2: no 335— 3 93.33 .3333 5:2. :35. #3333 $333 V5559 222a .3323. 03:3 .Eaaéfié3 33:3 .EE 33:3 £333.33. .25 E22 23 E .324 333 $55M 23033 333.835. 2—... 3.0 £333.32 swam 323533930 3. 32:83 .Qdafiadm ho Mhfloz .3833 3.3542 “fies—N was ESEN \c 3.3.3.30 2% 383.333 38% $33.33» go 339...»?ka 3333§ ~58 ~s£S§§EV “S \a. £33333 33.38.33 WNQNS .§ _ STATION 102;! (9TH TRAVERSE)-fMARCH 7TH, KELLAK. On the Upper Zéb, at the North and of the Village. Time by D. 12859 Chron. S. Long. Time T. from N00 H. h. m. s. 1] Diff. 74”‘1 03 9 Dec]. 9 35 43'2 P. D. 80 24 17 H. 6‘95 Q Rt. Ase H. Diff. 11”'04 3 3312 1'10 + 3422 1 29 6'49 . 1 29 40‘71 Difl". 9”'22g ly‘a 27'678 23 12 3630 23 13 04‘90 (91%. Ass. 24 Compfienh 0 46 55-1 H. Diff. '629 Equa. W 1'88 63 1 '950 11 9 '46 11 7'51 slilfi N1. M er. Alt. * Siriusfor Latitude. 740 271 45/: Index Error fl 74 28 15 37 14 7 Ref. Par. — l 16 37 12 51 90 52 47 09 N. Dec]. 16 .31 16 S. Lat. of Kellék 36 15 53 N. Altitudes of Venus. Alt. Alt. Alt. Alt. 0 I II 0 I [I O I II 0 I II 70 55 30 70 36 25 70 26 30 70 18 00 + 30 + 30 + 30 + 30 393 35 28 ()0 35 18 27 35 13 30 35 9 15 ~122 —122 —122 ~123 35 26 38 35 17 05 35 12 08 35 7 52 80 24 17 80 24 17 80 24 17 80 24 17 36 15 53 36 15 53 36 15 53 36 15 53 152 6 48 151 57 15 151 52 18 151 48 02 1 '76 3 24 75 58 37 75 56 09 75 54 01 40 36 46 40 41 32 40 44 01 40 46 09 35 307 80 24 17 36 15 53 514317 75 51 38 40 48 31 ———‘—‘_—“ ——_’a—— —" Ea; HESS—i. 0'00612 0‘00612 0'00612 0'00612 0‘00612 0 '09351 0 '09351 0 '09351 0 '09351 0 '09351 9 '38195 9 '38438 9 '38562 9 '38670 9 '38789 9 '81354 9 '81425 9 '814-61 9 '81492 9 “81527 929512 929826 929986 230125 9 30279 h. m. a. h.m. s. h. m. s. h. m. s. h. m. s. 3 30 581 3‘31 47'5 3 32 127 3 32 34‘7 3 32 591 1 29 40'71 1 29 4071 1 29 4071 1 29 40'71 1 29 4071 46 55 '1 46 551 46'55'1 46 55 ‘1 46 55'1 5 47 33 91 5 48 2331 5 48 48'51 5 49 10'51 5 49 34'91 +11 7'51 +11 7'51 +11 7'51 +11 7'51 +11 7'51 5 58 41'42 5 59 3082 5 59 5602 6 00 18'02 6 0 42'42 5 55 465 5 56 36 5 57 1'5 5 57 235 5 57 49 W92 W 2 54-52 2 54 52 2 53-42 2 54'82 ——-‘ ‘—“. —— —— __._._———-— 2 5452 2 5452 2 53-42 \ 27220 111. s. S.M.T. 2 54-44 D. 12860. S. M. T. Khén Nahrwén,Ma.r.7th 6 53-73 S. 59 295 D.12860. S. M. T. Keilék, Mar. 7th ..1...... 3 24-04 S. M.’1‘. 3 24-04 Difi. Long. in’l‘imgww...” 3 29'69 \ 0 m. S. KeBak, W. Khz’m Nahrwén ....... 3 29-59 = ‘6 52 23 w. - Khén Nahrwén E. Baghdéd.................. 6 00 E. Kenak.w. Baghdad ... ,o 46 23 W. 2E2 394 TOPOGRAPHY OF NINEVEH. Sights at Mr. Rassam’s House (British Consul). MOSUL. To find the Lat. and Long. of the Minaret of Mosul, bearing 299° 300 yds. MARCH 11m, 1852. Mar. Alt. Sun’s Lower Limbfor Latitude. 11. 111. Long. in Time 2 59. 58”'85 2 117 70 30 13 29 42 20 5 19 62 2 5415 1 96 16870 + 2 48-7 3 31 386 Decl. 3 34- 27'3 Time by D. 19859 11.111. 5. H 0‘ 61 01mm 011mm. S. + Equa. Long. Time T. from Noon 6 27 4: O I /I -30 99 39 25 1. Error + 30 99 39 55 49 49 57 Corr. Semdr. + 15 24 . 50 05 21 90 39 54 39N Decl. 3 34 27 s. - _ Lat. House 36 20 12 N. N. 61° W. 300 yds. = Diff. Lat. 14-6 yds. 01‘ + 4 Lat. Mosul Minaret 36 :20 16 N Attitudes of the Sun’s Lower Limb—March 10th. Alt. A15. Alt. Alt. Alt. 5’0 4'4 3' 530 5'2 2'0 5’0 5' 4'0 5’1 ’8 5'0 51 18 6'0 + 30 + 30 + 30 + 30 + 30 50 45 00 50 52 50 51 00 10 51 9 20 51 18 30 25 22 30 25 26 25 25 30 5 25 31 40 25 39 15 + 14 13 + 14 13 + 1.1 13 + 14 13 + 14 13 25 36 4:5 25 40 38 25 41 18 ”2‘5 48 53 25 55' 2 94131 94131 9113 91131 94131 36 20 12 36 20 12 36 20 12 36 20 12 36 20 12 155 53 26 156 02 21 156 06 01 156 10 36 156 15 11 77 59 13 78‘ 1 10 78 3 00 78 5 18 78 7 35 752 22 30 52 20 3° 52 18 42 52 16 25 52 14 07 0 00107 0 -00107 0 00107 0 00107 0 00107 0 09391 0 09391 0 09391 0 09391 0 09391 ' 9 31834 931719 9 31609 931472 931335 11. D111. 53”-73 939574 9-8-9355 959337 9-5-9815 9-89792 ,2 9-31-2116 931072 9 30941 9'30’785 9-30625 352158 i—E; mu.— m u—a—ua- ————‘ 20 3 19-57 4 515 3-91 7)__ . . 4 “filial 11.111. 5. I1.m. 5. 11.111 3. l1.m. a. 11.111. 5. “-1977 3 35 27-1 3 35 5-7 3 34 45-1 3 3419-7 3 33 54-1 3r 6 19‘1'7 8 24 32-9 3 24 54-3 8 25 14-9 8 25 40-3 8 26 5-9 a 55 }1 s + 10 27-4 + 10 27-4 +10 27-4 + 10 27-4 +10 27-4 Dch 4-001 30‘77 ' 8 35 00-3 3 35 21-7 8 65 42-3 8 36 7-7 8 36 33-3 3 9 s 34 53-5 8 3.1 55-5 3 35 15-5 8 35 41 8 36 6-5 1- D- 9* 01 31 26-8 26-2 26-8 26-7 “271—3 W 26-2 W -—_’———- -———— —— H. Diff. '657 96 '8 - 6 26'7 3-942 26‘8 20 g 219 733 m. s. 4 5‘3 44 D. 59. S. M.’1‘. 26166 D. 12860. S.M.T. Khén Nahm‘én, Mar. 10th 6 53-73 4 5‘5 .. 44 D.60. s. 59 57 D. 12860. s. M. T. Mosul (House) Mar. 105111 2366 + 4'219 D. 60. S.M.T 1 2366 D111. Loug.in Time ............... 5 30-07 10 2315 ~--—-— - a Equa. 10 27-399 Mosul (House), W. Kluin Nahrwén 5 30-07 = 1 Minaret, N. 61° W. 300 yds. = Diff. Long Mosul Minaret, W. Khén Nahrwén . . Khan Nahrwan E. Baghdad Mosul Minaret W. Baghdad ...... III. S. ........... 0/ 22 -l/ 31 W. 9 W. 1 22 40W 600E. 11640W z TOPOGRAPHY OF NINEVEH . 395; Sightset the Camp of Koiyunjz'lc Village 07' Aramushz’yeh. RUINS OF NINEVEH. M er. Alt. Sun’s Lower Limbfor Latitude. MARCH 14TH, 1852. MARCH 15TH, 1852. h. m. 3. Long. in Time.................. 2 52 30 H. D111.» 59-13 181 5’9 5’0 182 4'7 1” II. D111. 59-19 2 50 59 55 51 23 35 2 1111-26 Par. Ref. 42 —- 41 0 1. 15123-3 30 5 99'56 50 59 13 51 22 54 3 a 59 ‘20 8 19"” Semdr. + 16 6 + 16 6 20 3 1973 2 ~11 197 ————— ——:—~ 2 415 1-97 35___ 51 15 19 51 39 00 ———+ 169'50 . 90 90 1696] + 9 49‘5 38 44 41 ‘N. 38 21 00 N. 2 49‘7 D601. 2 20 47'4S. D801. 2 23 37 s_ 1 59 57 s_ Dccl. 1 57 7‘08. Corr- Decl- 3 ‘23 36'93. Lat. of Koiyunjik 36 21 04 N. = 36 21 03 N. COI‘T- 13001-33? 576:7 9- __._.——-——+ __.—n— Altitudes of the Sun’s Lower Limb. MARCH 13TH, 1852. Time by D. 12859 Alt. Alt. Alt. 5 A11. Alt. . I. m. s. 18 89 4o 54 2’1 0’6 5’4 2'9 2'0 5’4 3’6 5’8 5’4 4'5 g8 54 5’4 9'8 8403-5 +30 +30 +3 + +. 8 40 24'5 54 21 30 54 29 50 54 37 20 51 45 40 54 54 30 8 4(1) ‘fii 27 10 45 27 14 55 27 18 40 27 22 50 27 27 15 ELL—:— +1421 +1421 +1422 +1422 +1422 M 27 :5 06 27 29 16 27 33 02 27 37 12 27 41 37 8 4° 95'“ 92 50 42 92 50 42 92 50 42 92 50 42 92 50 42 139113 - 9 38"? 36 21 4 36 21 4 36 21 4 36 21 4 36 21 4 3 3° 47 "156 36 5-3 156 41 2 156 44 48 156 48 58 156 53 23 LongT 9- 59 30 78 18 26 78 20 31 78 22 24 78 24 29 '78 26 41 5 38 17 50 53 20 50 51 15 50 49 22 50 47 17 50 45 04 12 __.—__.... __. __.... __.—__.. ________. TfmmNoon 6 21 4:: ”a. 0 00054 0 00054 0 00054 0 00054 0 00054 0-09399 009399 009399 0-09399 0-09399 H D 523.05 9'30678 930550 930435 930307 9-30171 ' ' 6 9-88982 988961 988941 9-88920 988897 354.30 929113 928964 928829 928680 928521 - 2 18% 1‘97 . 3 5-95 + :3 15.9 h. m. s. h. m. 5. 11.111. 8. 11.n1. s. h.m. 5.. 2 44 26.5 3 29 55-6 3 29 32-3 3 29 11-3 3 28 48-2 3 28 23-6 8 30 04-4 8 30 27-7 3 30 48-7 8 31 11-8 8 31 36-4 1368.92) 50 42 + 9 38-5 + 9 38-5 + 9 38-5 + 9 385 + 9 38-5 . ~ 8 "9 42-9 8 40 06-2 8 40 27-2 8 40 50-8 8 4114-9 P'D’ 92.1.2. 8§9 40 840 3 5 840 24-5 840 48 84112 ' 2-9 2-7 2-7 2-3 " 2-9 2.7 s —=— :— _— H D111. '693 g; ' 6 4-158 2'9 20 1 231 '35 ', . .. s. 2‘51.— ‘23' 1159- S-M-T- 2'7 D.12860. s. M. T. K1511 Nah1wan,Mar.13th 6 53-73 + 4-452 1160- S- 59 1 30 D. 12860. s. M. '1‘. Koiyunjik ......Mar. 13111 1 32-7 9 3403 D60. MM. 1 32‘7 D18. Long.in Time.............. 5W1- Equa 9 38-48 __.—_- " o I II D. 12860 = Koiyunjik, W.‘ Khén Nahrwén ...... 1 20 15 W. Khéu Nahrwén E. Baghdad 6 00E. Koiyunjik.W.Baghdéd , 1 14 15W. 396 TOPOGRAPHY 011 NINEVEH. Sights for Rates, at tize same Spot. ' KOIYUNJIK. APRIL 13TH, 1852. Altitudes qf the Sun’s Lower Limb. Time by D. 12859 Alt. Alt. Alt. 4113. Alt. h' m' s' O I I/ O I [I O I II 0 I I/ O I II 8 51 52 76 46 20 76 55 4 77 4 30 77 12 30 77 21 50 852165 +30 +30 +30 +30 +30 g 2% 42'5 ' 76—46 50 _ 76 5‘6 10 77 '5""00 77 13 00 77 ‘22—‘20 8 53 2g 38 23 25 38 28 5 38 32 30 38 36 30 38 41 10 1316 +14 51‘ +14 51 +14 52 + 1452 +14 52 ~— 38 38 16 38 42 56 33 47 22 38 51 22 38 56 02 852 59 8053 6 8053 6 80 53 6 8053 6 8053 6 013011.11. :_4___ 36 21 4 36 21 4 36 21 4 36 21 4 86 21 4 8 43 59 155 52 26 155 57 06 156 1 32 156 5 32 156 10 12 Equa- ;_3L 77 56 13 77 58 32 78 00 46 78 2 46 78 5 6 8 49 99 39 17 57 39 15 37 39 13 24 39 11 24 39 9 4 Long. '1‘. “ 2 52 30 ‘ =——."__—: = 7.: _—_._...— ‘—.—= "5‘ 56 59 12 T. ffom Noon 6 03 00 7 0 '00552 0 '00552 0 '00552 0 '-00552 0 @0552 0 '09399 0 '09399 0 ‘09399 0 '09399 0 '09399 9 '32012 9 '31874: 9 '31742 9 ‘31623 9 '31484: 9 '80166 9 ‘80130 9 ‘80095 9-‘800644 9 “80028 9'22129 9‘21955 , 9'21788 9'21638 9'21463 11.1113. 51-38 ' ' 6 326 28 3 | 513, 2 72 ~329'00 h.m. s. h. m. s. h.m. s. h.m. s. h.m. s. —- 5 29'0 3 12 37‘6 3 12 13 3 11 49'4: 3 11 28'4 3 11 3'9 Decl. 9 12 22's 8 47 22.4 s 47 47 8 48 106 8 48 316 8 48 56-1 9 6 53‘8N. + 30 + 30 + 30 + 30 + 30 ~ BO..____ 347 52-4 84817 84840-6 849 0115 84926-1 1’. 1).. 80 53 06'2 8 51 52 8 52 16‘5 8 52 40'5 8 53 2 8 53 25 __ 359-6 3595 359'9 4004 358'9 3 59.5 — = — —— 3 59'9 4 00‘4 3 589 H. Diff. ‘650 . 19 58'3 m s . 6 13.59. F.M.T. 3 59‘66 1) 12859 S M T K ' ' I 5. » » -\ . . . . . 01yun 1k, March 13th 0 2'7 3 l 1. 5 93g D. 60. S. D. 59 5 7 D. 12859. F. M. T. Koiyunfiik, April 13th 3 59'66 “Si—3.937; D.60.S.M.T._1flfif Ga1nin 31 days 4 02-36 0 26.09 Dally Gain...”mm-.1.mun"... 0 7818 ‘ Equa. 0 30-02 ~ ' m. s. D. 12860. S. M. ’1‘. Koiyunjik, March 13th 1 327 D. 12860. S. M. T. Koiyunjik, April 13th ...... 1 07'34 Gain in 31 days 25-36 DailyGain ..... 01—0818 Time by D. 12859 Alt. Alt. Alt. Alt. Alt. ll‘m-S- 0/ II 0/ n 0 Ill 01/! 011/ 9 21 13-5 94 34 10 94 42 20 94 49 50 94 58 20 95 19 00 9 21 34 47 17 5 47 21 10 47 24 55 47 29 10 47 39 3o 99153. +159 +15 9 +159 _+159 +159 3 3,? 13.; 47 32 14 47 36 19 47 40 04 47 44 19 47 54 39 —_£— 7967 7967 7967 7967 7967 110 06'9 33 19 40 33 19 40 33 19 40 33 19 40 33 19 40 9 ‘32 02 159 58 01 160 02 06 160 05 51 160 10 06 160 20 26 - + 23 79 59 00 80 01 03 80 02 55 80 5 3 . 80 10 13 9 22 25 32 26 46 32 24 44 32 22 51 32 20 44 32 15 34 + 44 —— —-— —— ”—— —‘—’——-— 9 23 09 2 57 40 6 25 29 , 12 0 -00790 0 00790 0 00790 0 00790 0 00790 ”5’3'4—31- 0 '07803 0 ~07803 0 '07803 0 -07803 0 -07803 a 9 24039 9 23892 9 23758 9 23604 9 23229 9 72957 9 72917 9 72880 9 72837 9 72734 9 -05589 9 05402 9 95231 9 -05034 9 -04556 ' . ' 52 35 H Dlfi. 5 h. m. s. h.m. s. h. m. 5. 11.111. 5. h.m. a. 261.75 2 37 40-3 2 37 19-2 2 36 59-9 2 36 37-7 2 35 44 30 4. 26.17 9 22 19-7 9 22 40-8 9 23 00-1 9 23 22-3 9 24 16 5 T1a 4‘56 — 43‘3 — 43'3 — 43'3 - 43‘3 —- 43'3 2.92.28 9 21 36-4 9 21 57-5 9 22 16-8 9 22 39-0 9 23 32-7 W 92113-5 92134 92154 92215-7 923 9-7 10 58 45-7 22-9 23-5 22-8 23-3 23-0 .__.——- 0 - —— —— m .———-—n Dec]. - 10 53 53-5 N. g; ' __.___.__9° 23-3 P. D. 79 06 06'5 23.0 115-5 m. 5. ~ D. 59. S.T 23-1 D. 12859. F. M. '1‘. Koiyunjik, April 13th 3 59-66 D. 60. S. 59 5 45 '85 Gain in 5 days, at 7818 5. daily ........ .......... + 39'09 D. 60. S.M.T. 6 895 D. 12859. F. M.T. Koiyunjik, April 18th...... 4 38-75 ' z D. 12859. s. M. '1‘. Baghdad, April 18t11......... + 23-1 H. Diff .573 Diff. Long. in Time ......u...-u. 5 01'85 5 —'—“u——"_‘ 2-865 30 3 286 5 .1; 48 — 3-199 . .. . m- 3-. 0 46'48 D. 12860. S. M. T. KelyunJlk, Aprll 13th...... 1 07 ~54. E 0 4&2“ Gain in 5 days, at 818 5. daily ........... .. — 4’09 9W1- _ D. 12860. s. M. T. Koiyunjik. April 18th...... 1 03-25 D. 12860. s. M. '1‘. Baghdad, April 18th 6 8-95 Diff.Long.in Time 5 5-70 m. 5. O I! D. 12859 = 5 01 ~85 = Diff. Long..........,........... 1 15 28 D. 12860 = 5 057 = Diff. Long................ ...... 1 16 25 Means give Koi unjik W. Baghdad ....... ..... . l 15 56 W. By the rate up, oiyunjik W. Baghdad .........,..... 1 14. 15 W. Means of Rates, Koiyunjik W. Baghdad... 1 15 5 W. TOPOGRAPHY. OF NINEVEH. BAGHDAD. Sights for Dzfi'. Long; between Koiyunjz'k and Bagh-ddd. APRIL 18TH, 1852. Altitudes, Sun’s L. Limb. 397 398 ART. VI.— 0n t/ze Orilzoyraphy of some of the later Royal names of Assyrian and Babylonian history. [Read 18th Non, 1854.] To THE SECRETARY OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. SIR: Baghdad, October 2, 1854. MUCH as I dislike discussions which have anything of the character of controversy, I am tempted by the interest I naturally take in Cunei: form research, to put together a few explanatory notes, with a View of remedying the confusion that Dr. Hincks’s recent publications in the Literary Gazette1 have introduced into certain later portions of the Assyrian and Babylonian history. I have nothing to say at present to Dr. Hincks’s chronology of Sargon and Sennacherib, agreeing as I generally do with his dates from B.C. 722 to 680, but it must not be lost sight of that we both take our stand on the numbers employed in Ptolemy’s canon, or rather on the agreement between the canon and the inscriptions, in regard to a consecutive series of dates relatively to each other, and that we are as yet entirely unsupported by Greek, Hebrew, 0r. Egyptian synchro- nisms. If then it should so happen that there is any radical error in Ptolemy’s chronology, the era of N abonassar for instance not having really commenced on February 26th, B.C. 747, or the subsequent Chal- deean dates being improperly adapted to the Egyptian calendar (and Dr. Hincks’s own observations on the Assyrian intercalation would seem to show that this is not improbable); if, I say, we are thus foundng on erroneous premises, then our conclusions, though rela- tively correct, will be positively wrong. Under such circumstances, I am disposed to treat with every respect Mr. Bosanquet’s proposed rectifications, founded on astronomi- cal calculations, which it may be presumed are of the utmost precision, and I shall wait for the verification or otherwise of Ptolemy’s dates, by’the application to his eclipses (recorded as far back as the reign of Merodach Baladan), of the same astronomical test which Mr. Bosan-a quet has already applied to the eclipses of Thales and Hezekiah, before I undertake either to support or to modify my published views on the Assyrian chronology ; but with regard to the historical nomenclature no such reserve is necessary. 1 See No. 1944, of April 22, 1854, and No. 1959, of August 5, 1854. AssYRIAN AND BABYLONIAN NAMES. 399‘ Dr. Hincks’s views on the later Assyrian succession, so far as I can understand them, may be thus stated: Sennacherib had two sons 3 the elder, Assurnnadin, and the younger Assur-alclz-z'ddz'n (the ’A7rpwvd8109 and ’Ao‘aapd5wos of the canon); and the latter, who was the Esar—Haddon of Scripture, had again three sons, Assur—bani—bal, Assu-r—yuckum-bal, and Shamas-akh- iddan, of whom the two first reigned successively in Assyria on the death of their father, and the third synchronously with his brothers in Babylonia. Now this latter triumvirate is certainly fictitious, depending alto- gether on a mistaken reading of the Cuneiform names; and even the distinction of the two sons of Sennacherib, to which I was formerly opposed, requires some explanation. The name of the eldest son of Sennacherib, who was placed in the government of Babylonia, on the second expulsion of Merodach Bala— dan, in the former king’s fourth year, is written, on every monument which I have examined, as Y >>—@ H»Y (l( >15. On one of the_Koyunjik hulls, however, according to Mr. Layard’s copy (B. M. series, pl. 61, l. 5), the variant reading is found of Y »»W ééq 331$. This then is the name which I used to suppose to be the same as Esar- Haddon (for reasons that I shall presently explain), and which Dr. Hincks appears now to read as Assur-nadén, regarding the final >§é either as a separate word (“ by name” 2), or as a non—phonetic adjunct. The reason why I formerly confounded this king with Esar-Haddon, whose name is generally spelt as Y >>g §T » or Y »»Y& Egg €24 HFY, was that I had positive proof of the first and third elements of the two names being identical, and that I thus fancied J Y (K or $87 might be exceptionally used for (tic/L; but upon mature consideration I do not think that explanation tenable, and I now propose therefore to read Y >—>—@ V? Y (R $ or Y >>I¥ €€§é as Asskur—nad’m-éddina, “Asshur is the giver of the gift.”1 It will perhaps appear strange to Dr. Hineks that I should read 1 I may here observe that one element of the royal names of Assyria and Babylonia is usually a monogram, representing a verbal root, which may be pro- nounced as a participle, or the aorist, or even as the verbal noun: 91¢ 01‘ €24 thus represents the root nadan “to give," and may be pronounced as nadin, or iddz'n, or perhaps even as adin. 400” ON THE ORTHOGRAPHY 011 THE >16 ‘as iddz'na, regarding it as a monogram for the root “ to give,” absolutely equal to ~28}, but I believe there is positive proof of this identity 5 for on One of the Nabonit cylinders found at Mugheir,‘ the king of Assyria who repairs a temple at Babylon, and who can be no other than Esar Haddon, is named Y >>Ya g3< >§— or $4 #7 ; and again, on Lord Aberdeen’s stone, which I stated long ago to belong to Esar Haddon,1 and which it does, I confess, surprise me to find Dr. Hineks still attributing to a spurious Shamas- alclzez'ddcm, there is an example of the same variant orthography 3 the king’s name in col. 1, l. 1, being written rrYQ Ewé £8; JY and in col 2,1 18, as >>YQ :H'H'é VX. In many other .names too, such as Y >>Y (:étl >148 #, Merodack-nadz’n- {delinan »>-Y >E 51¢ W :YW, Nabu-nadin-iskun, &c., the same power is to be recognized. I now proceed, however, to the more important question of the three sons of Esar-haddon, and I reiterate what I published in the Athenaeum of March 18th, 1854, that the king in question was succeeded by his son, Asshm‘-bani—pal, and that Dr. Hincks’s Asw- yuckum-bal and Shamas-akh—iddan have no existence. The nameof this son of Esar-Haddon, who succeeded his father on the throne, is composed, as usual, of three elements; 1stly, Asshur, >»W, or >-»‘Y&; 2ndly, bani, the participle of 7133 written ,7; or :Y fl, - and 3dly, ll’ or E* 2132*7, (ml or goal, “a son,’ so that it means " Asshur is the creator of a son.” It is singular that Dr. Hincks should not' have discovered that the . >— A . . . s1gn *, amongst its varlous uses, represents the root 1132;}, and 1s pronounced bam', as there are hundreds of examples of this employ- , ment of the character in the-inscriptions ,2 but it is more singular still . that he should have affixed to the letter in question the power of ‘ See the last note to my letter in the Atheneeum of March 18,1854. ‘ 2 Thus on the Chaldaean bricks “ builder” of the palace or temple- is written indifi'erently :Y 7L and * >lf~, 6mm and mubani, 8120., &c ASSYRIAN AND BABYLONIAN NAMES. 401 yuckum,‘ as it involves a double error ,' firstly, that of mistaking the letter M for ”ii—7 in the name of >>Y >E Q’I’l‘ Ll, and secondly, that of attributing the name in question to Nabopolassar, the father of Nebuchadnezzar, instead of to Nabonidus. From the first moment when I examined the Warka tablets in the British Museum, and copied the dates, which Dr. Hincks appears to think he, has recently discovered,‘~‘ I had very little doubt but that the name »Y >15} Q42; Ll referred to Nabunit, and I published this identification above three years ago, (Jour. R. A. 8., vol. xiv, part 1 p. 9, note 2.)3 The reading has-since been confirmed by a hundred 1 I may here note, that £23: the final element in so many Babylonian names, is the monogram for the root “$13. “ to protect ;” and is, I believe, always pronounced as the participle vatsur, or utsur, rather than as the aorist yutsur. 2 These dates, which Dr. Hincks' announced to the Trustees as discoveries in April of the present year, were communicated by me to Mr. Birch and Mr. Vaux, early in 1851, on being permitted to examine the Warka tablets, in their rooms at the Museum. 3 The {last letter of the name is, in the passage here referred to, incorrectly printedas %a The true form is J“ or “i, (No. 224 of my alphabet), of which the ordinary phonetic power is duh. In this name, I presume that Qr¥¥e must be a determinative, and that L I represents some object of which the name is m’t. It is however just possible that the name Y >>Y >3 &% M may be pronounced phonetically Nabu-imduk, or Nabo-indulc, answering in fact to the Nafiawidoxog of Abydemus, as quoted by Eusebius, and to the Nafioo’wdnkog of Berosus, as quoted by Josephus; and in the latter form I would further suggest thatthe A was the error of a copyist for x; at any rate it is quite certain that the same king, Whose name is generally written Nafiovndog, or Nafiémb‘og, has also the appellation of _Na6anm'doch and Naboandel (for Naboandech), precisely as in 7 the inscriptions the two names of Y >—>—Y >— t: 01' Y >>Y >3 >— wi as easy Y »—7 as; as is indifi'erently. The explanation also which 1 would offer of this singular jumble is as follows : the verbal element in names may be pronounced as the aorist or the participle,- apparently at option. In this name I suppose the root to be 133, which is constantly’used in the inscriptions with a great variety of meanings; here ' » it probably means “to console,” Nabu-m't (for Nabu-m'd, the final sonant being, always sharpened) signifying “ N ebo the comforter,” while Nabu-z'nduk is “ N ebo, consoles you.” I confess I have never seen any other instance of a pronominal sufiix being added at option in the composition of a proper name; but there must, \ I presume, be some such irregularity to account for the discrepancy of orthography which, occurs bothinthe Greek and Cuneiform rendering of, the name. 402 on THE ORTHOGRAPHY on THE examples, Nabunit naming himself on his bricks and cylinders indiffe- rently >—>—Y »E 1;:, or »» >E' >IY qu— EaY, or »»Y »E &>H~ M, and the three several and equivalent. forms occurring "not unfreqnently in the courseof the same inscription I do not pretend at present to explain how it happens that .Q% M has the phonetic power 'of m't, but the fact is undoubted, and Dr. Hincks therefore must abandon all his readings of Nabu-bt'n- yuchur, Shamsz' bin, Ben-Hadad, Assur-yuckura-bal, together with his three sons of Esar-Haddon, and a number of other historical illustra- tions, which he has recently delivered “ex cathedra,” with the same confidence that characterizes his announcement of genuine readings, and which are thus calculated to mislead enquiry, and to retard the progress of discover.y The only single addition which I have to make to my sketch of Assyiian hist'01y, as published 1n the Athenseum of Mamh, 1854, is,’ that in the S. E. palace at Nimrud many relics have been recently found of the son of Asslmr-bmzi—pal, whom I ‘Ilftllle provisionally ' Ass/mr—cm{If-tit,1 and that under this king, who reigned probably from RC. 645 to 625, must therefore be placed both the Scythian inroad and the destruction of Nineveh by the Medes. _ H. C. RAWLINSON. Letter from Dr. Hincics, in reply to Colonel Rawlz‘nsooz’s N ote on tize Successor of Sennackerib. Ktllyleigh, 00. Down, 29th Nov. 1854. Dear Sir. I observe that a communication from Colonel Rawlinson was read at the last meeting of the Royal Asiatic Society, containing what he conceived to be rectifications of statements made by me in a report and letter of mine published in the Literary Gazette. I trust the Society will accept a communication from me, tending to show that these are by no means rectifications. Of Colonel Rawlinson’s two objections, the first is of little impor. tance. He says that the true name of the eldest son of Sennacherib is not Assur-nadin, but Assur—nadin-z'ddin. I have met with this name in three different forms in three different Bull inscriptions copied by Mr. Layard. In one the name is distinctly Assur—nadt'n. In the 1 Meaning perhaps “ Asshur is the chief of (lit, stands over) the gods.” ASSYRIpAN AND BABYLONIAN NAMES. 403 other two an addition to this is found, which I at first read sumt'. Afterwards, I found an explanation of the wkole conclusion of the \name on a tablet in the British Museum, from which I inferred that it should be pronounced nadin, without any addition. Unfortunately I have mislaid my notes of the inscription on this tablet 3 and I am . therefore unable to give my reasons for thus reading it more specifi— cally than I havedone. It is a matter of but little moment. ‘ All the other points of difference to which Colonel Rawlinson has referred in his communication may be reduced to this :-—A certain royal I name appears on tablets in the British Museum, and on bricks found at Babylon on the river side, which Colonel Rawlinson believes to be * ‘ a variant of the name of Nabu-nalu'd or, as he calls him, Aruba—nit 7 who began to reign in 555 13.0. 3 but which I believe to be a variant of the name of N abopolassar, who began to reign seventy years earlier. The question is, which of us is right? That it is one or other of these kings seems pretty evident ,' for the father of this king is mentioned, and he was not a king. He was, according to Colonel Rawlinson, ZVabu-dirba, and filled the high office of “ Tuba—emga.” Colonel Raw- linson has adduced, in support of his theory, a statement of Berosus that Nabunit executed some considerable works at Babylon ; but Berosus mentions the outer walls of the city as all that he built; whereas the bricks are from the river side. On the other hand, in the ‘ great inscription at the India House, Nebuchadnezzar distinctly men— tions these works by the river side, as having been completed by him— self 3 they having been commenced by his father, Nabopolassar, whose bricks might, therefore,.be naturally expected to be found in their _ foundations. Besides, if Mr. Layard‘s copies be correct, the final chaa racter in the disputed name is interchanged with one which is interl-r’,_ changed with the character which ordinarily expresses the last element in the names of Nebnchadnezzar and his father,—yuckm~, as I read it. ,That is to say, YY< is interchanged with A, _ which is interchanged *— With %¢. On these grounds, I must retain my opinion as to the person to whom this name belongs ,' and of course I attach no weight to the objections brought against my other readings, that they are dependent upon, or connected with, this. The rectification which appears to me most needed is that Colonel Rawlinson should cease to {attribute to Nabunahid the bricks and the buildings and the parentage ' of N abopolassar. ' ’ A p ' Believe me to remain, yours very truly, E. Norris, Esq. ‘ ' ,, . Enw. HINCKs. 404 ART. VIL—Notes on Abu S/zahrez'n and Tel el La/mz. By J. E. TAYLOR, ESQ. [Read 5th May, 1855.] ALTHOUGH my visit this year to Abu Shahrein has been unproductive of any very important results, yet the description of the ruins will, I hope, prove sufliciently interesting, to render the transcription of the rough notes I made upon the spot, not altogether superfluous. The first aspect of the ruins, when approaching them from the Hazem, is that of a ruined fort, surrounded by high walls, with a keep or tower at one end, situated on an eminenCe, in the centre nearly of the dry bed of an inland sea. They are ‘situated, in fact, in a deep valley, for the most part covered with a nitrous incrustation ,' but with here and there a few patches of alluvium, scantily clothed with the shrubs and plants peculiar to the desert. This valley is bounded on the east by the low pebbly and sandstone range called the Hazem, which separates it from the plains around Muqeyer and the Euphrates. Its boundary towards the south is the Qassaim Dafneh, which joins on the Qassaim itself, the boundary of Abu Shahrein to the west. I may here remark that the Hazem does not join on to the Qassaim Dafneh, but ends nearly opposite to it, in a bunch of mounds, called the Ghanar. Between it and the Qassaim Dafneh is a deep gorge, which leads the superflous waters of the Khanega1 into that part of the Abu Shahrein valley called the Suleybeea. This in the rainy Season be comes a perfect sea. In summer, the Suleyb and other tribes who encamp here, dig wells in its lower portions, which supply them with brackish water.‘ In winter, although slightly saline, the water is more palatable. The Hazem near this place rises as steep and perpendi- cular as a cliff, and is composed entirely of a soft kind of sandstone. The Qassairn is a ridge composediof sand and pebbles, which forms an almost uninterrupted boundary to the low country bordering on the Euphrates, and ends in the desert, nearly opposite Shenafieh, a. mud fort and village on the Euphrates, nét far from the Bahr 111 N ejef. Beyond the Qassaim, but parallel to it,‘i~2~ and stretching equally as far, is the stony district of the Hejerra, so cilled from the numerous blocks of black granite with'which it aboundsknd which are indigenous to l The Khanega is a species of Wadi, whic‘ from its low level, collects rain water in considerable quantities. When completely full it bursts over the country. The greater part of the water finds its way to the $uleybeea. The Khanega is about sixteen hours south-west of Sfik esh Shuiukh, and is a favourite camping-ground of the Dhef yr. University of Pennsylvania Library Circulation Department Please return this book as soon as you have finished with it. 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