THE LIBRARY OF
THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELESFULFILMENT
By
CLYDE• O• BEDELL
With acknowledgment to
JOHN NORTHERN HILLIARD for much of Part Two
MONTEREY PENINSULA COMMUNITIES • INCORPORATED
Del Monte Monterey Pacific Grove Pebble Beach Carmel Carmel Highlands
MONTEREY• CALIFORNIAPart One of this Booklet is designed to create for you, wherever you may be, the atmosphere of the Monterey Peninsula of old —and of today. It breathes of the chivab rous past, and of the inviting present tinged with mellow' ing tradition.
Part Two is a miniature cyclopaedia of information and fact. It talks fish and chicfiens and golf for instance, im stead of scenery and romance. It will answer your practical questions concerning the Peninsula.^nlrodtcclion
YOU are about to be told of a place largely settled by people who could live anywhere in the world. They are familiar with the gay and charming Riviera of the Mediterranean.
They know the intriguing beauties of Europe, the wistful loveliness of England and Scotland, and the beguiling sweetness of the sunny Southlands. They know the bracing, invigorating northern climes, and the mystic Orient.
Yet for home, they have chosen the Monterey Peninsula! This Peninsula—fortunate in the illustrious persons who love it—has few earmarks of the average community which is telling its story to the public. Here, there is no bluster and no boom. No great industrial section rearing giant smoke-stacks to the sky. The Peninsula has not been the mecca for great enterprises. It seeks people who want homes. Yet there is absence of tract offices here, and there are no pompous glad-handers with numerous blank deeds on their persons.
There are gorgeous flower-gardens, primitive forests, wondrous drives, and inviting little farms and ranches. There are sparkling fishing fleets, gorgeous sunsets, romantic bays, historic buildings of an age long gone, and championship golf courses. Color, beauty, grandeur, elegance—a myriad things that win real people are here. And of all these things and more, we will tell you. But the Peninsula—we hasten to say—will not appeal to the individual, nor to the family, which seeks a tinselled firmament of electric lights. Our communities—Carmel, Monterey, Pebble Beach and Pacific Grove—are alertly alive, but they cling to the old idea that homes are to live in and revere. Our families are so absurdly old-fashioned as to believe that if people are surrounded with all the good things of life, they will be contented with them. We adhere to the notion that to be happy is to be natural. And that to be natural is to pursue wholesome, healthy, honest things.ulhlmen־t
PART ONE
A DECADE before the Pilgrims set forth in search of a land -*־*• ־of liberty, Monterey’s discoverers had seen eight kind winters come and depart. By the time the Mayflower’s Masters uttered first prayers of thanksgiving for a perilous trip safely ended, the Peninsula had basked through eighteen mellow years under dominion of the white man.
Then civilization developed on two great seaboards at once. In the East, courageous forefathers of a mighty nation were wresting their fortunes from a hard, forbidding shore. In the West, no less courageous explorers and pioneers had pushed through trial and hardship until they settled into the lap of a bounteous Nature.
There had been years of scouting the unknown seas in egg-shell boats. There had been heart-rending seasons of leading dwindling files of men through Southern deserts. There had been months and months of privation and speculation, and at last—midway between the San Francisco and Los Angeles of today—Monterey!
As a large family has usually one among its members, especially favored and blessed by the gods, so seemed Monterey among the world’s family of pioneer settlements those ages gone.
Many cities are destined to relentlessly pursue power—as Carthage and Rome. Many are destined to be
dowered by lucrative commerce—as Constantinople and Tyre. But only occasionally a city seems destined to be the mother of a world.
Such a city was Monterey of old. Not that there was lacking the virility of a masculine port in this demure old Spanish town. Not that Monterey made no history as other places did. But Monterey—even in the dash and urge of making history—was winsome, piquant, and always modest. It was Monterey that gave birth to the State of California! To an entire Western World!
In early days, spice-scented argosies from the Orient would head into Monterey Bay, with sails like pearls reflecting a gorgeous setting sun. Lights would soon be struck in the inns, the gambling houses and the ballrooms, and cosmopolitan gaiety would commence.
But let us, with a spirit of adventure in our hearts, turn back the dogeared leaves of Time, and visit that Peninsula of old.
It is twilight. A nut-brown, aged vessel has joined several of its kind in the limpid bay. Small boats strike the water, and the glint of wet oars in the rhythm of rise and fall, mark their progress to the land.
Down the hills behind us, Spanish soldiers are sauntering, their uniforms bright and spotless. Here we pass aFULFILMENT
’dobe home, and in the patio a glorious señorita is dancing as she shall dance tonight in a brilliant ballroom. Ac׳ companying her is a troubadour,whose guitar is melting liquid romance into the evening air. Small feet twinkle over the stones of the court. Cas׳ tanets take up the time, and we hear a ripple of laughter as we pass on.
Now we meet the sailors—just landed—their sea׳legs still unaccus׳ tomed to the steady shore. They are strikingly attired, with bright colors lending them a gala air. For weeks they have breasted the seas, battling raging typhoons, and rounding the Horn with great waves sweeping their decks. Monterey has been in their minds for months. It is their night, and Old World gold glints sharply as bars are patronised, and as coins are flipped carelessly to hopeful urchins who should be in bed.
Here is a 'dobe house covered with rose vines, and rising from a sea of flowers. The fragrance is pervasive, and rises as though it would envel׳ ope the stars and the soaring moon. Window bars in the thick, cool walls do not confine a sudden trill of winged notes. A great crown of black hair appears. Two shining Spanish eyes peer up at the stars. She shall see her don tonight.
A few paces farther on, six Indians átolidly blink in the feeble glare of a lantern. Sailors from a Spanish boat are grouped about them, jesting, and inspecting for the firát time, American red men. Soon they will be trading pocket pieces for Indian souvenirs, talking by sign and grunt and grimace. A bunch of cowmen gallop down the street. They charge from block to block, inventorying the town. Satisfied that no excitement
is afoot, they dismount, prepared to make some for themselves.
Surely an evening in so cosmopoli׳ tan and romantic a place will be in׳ tereáting. We eventually arrive at the beát dance׳hall. Here Monterey society holds forth tonight. Joyous׳ ness is rampant. Extravagant decora׳ tions have made the ballroom a royal spectacle.
An air of expectation reigns. It has been whispered that Señorita Ysabel Herrara has been won at laát! Tonight she will appear with her Caballero—luckiest of all men. La Favorita—as she is called by her adoring Monterey—has been wooed by countless men. But she has kept her hand and heart for the man who would bring her pearls without end!
Vincent de la Vega, a handsome adventurer from the South, had de׳ parted months before, swearing some׳ how to return with the richeát pearls in the world. Now he must have returned, says local gossip, bringing the one gift for which La Favorita would surrender her hand.
At laát, between dances, there is a moment of silence. La Favorita appears in the fringe of the crowd! The floor has cleared. She steps forth, a vision of sublimeát beauty -—swathed in pearls—great ropes of them, such as people never knew could be! Flushed and happy in his lovely prise, De la Vega holds her hand. Defeated suitors swallow heavy hearts, and a firát cheer grows into deafening applause. The music átarts, and we watch dons and donas, senors and señoritas eagerly close about the radiant pair in a whirl of dancing. Where could life be so gay, so brilliant, as at Monterey?
The dance continues. Finally,
[6]You may see such spots as these every clay, if you live on the Monterey Peninsula. Famous Lone Cypress is in the upper left-hand corner.FULFILMENT
small hours have come. The last piece barely starts—when an aged padre, exhausted and pale, staggers into the room. His shoes are torn and his feet are bleeding from running far. With great difficulty, he lunges to the center of the floor. The music stops and there is stifling silence. The padre’s aged back straightens as with haggard face he peers about the room. Chills steal down the spines of seno-ritas. With electrifying suddeness, the padre shrieks, levels his finger at De la Vega, and in the name of heaven accuses him of stealing the sacred pearls of Loreta!
For a moment, the dashing Caballero is motionless. Then the love that had sent him forth for the pearls pricks him to action. Lifting his sweetheart in his arms, he dashes into the night. Monterey helps to seek the lost pearls of Loreta, but they are gone forever.
With excitement still high, let us enter a gambling house. Here at the bar is a cosmopolitan crowd. We may listen to the tales of grizzled explorers, or the narrations of hoary fishermen. We may rub elbows with the scions of Spanish nobility, removed from wealth by hearty love of pioneering and romance.
At the gaming tables are sailors, soldiers, adventurers. Some of them are sulking over the caprices of fortune. Others are flushed with triumph, and thump buoyantly on the drooping shoulders of mourning companions. There’s the clink of busy glasses and the riffle of cards on shining tables.
In one corner, a troubadour has accumulated a pile of coins before him. An opponent drops his head in hopelessness. There is whispered intimation of privation in the loser’s family.
The troubadour s visions of ease and affluence dissipate. He whispers a quick “Lo siento,” pushes his wealth to the luckless stranger, leaps over the table and is gone!
In another corner, an improvised quartette softly harmonizes to the lays of two guitars. Three Spaniards with chairs tilted against the walls, have bared their heads, and are dreaming of an old world court. Then there is sudden tumult. Alcalde Colton has come! Games stop on the instant. A fiery man strides to the largest table, heavily laden with gold. He throws a great cane across its middle, and with his right hand gestures. Then he speaks in Spanish: “This to the right be yours. This to the left be mine. In the name of your faithful Alcalde, do I speak.” A laugh sets up. Henchmen are waved to open sacks they have borne in behind the Alcalde, and glittering, clinking gold in a tawny stream, flows into their maws. So with other tables, till half the money on their tops has weighted the sacks. A ne’er-do-well attempts to slip a few coins into his sleeve, that the Alcalde may be short-changed. For his trouble, a cowman raps him stiffly over the knuckles with the butt of a gun.
Alcalde Colton moves to the door, the sacks borne beside him. He raises his hat to the crowded room. There are several oaths, many toasts, and a multitude of “saluds” for him as he disappears.
Thus does Alcalde Colton, loved of the populace as the town itself is loved, raise money to build Colton Hall, California’s first Capitol Building.
Now gaiety gives way to early morn. Let us take this path to an inviting hill-top. There below us lies old Monterey. Like a bed of loosely
[8]Marine views about the Peninsula. “The Pacific Ocean * * * bombards her with never-dying surf. * * * You can see the breakers leaping high and white by day; at night the outline of the shore is traced in transparent silver by the moonlight and flying foam; and from all around, even in quiet zveather, the loiv, distant thrilling roar of the
Pacific hangs over the adjacent country.”—Robert Louis Stevenson.FULFILMENT
scattered jewels, it glistens in the moonlight. Lights twinkle where revelers are seeking their beds, or per׳ force, industrious fishermen are stir׳ ring from theirs.
The great still bay lies like a deep׳ toned sapphire, blue׳black in the moon’s mild light. A path of yellow spun gold takes its start at the feet of the subsided town, and spans the water toward the mystic moon. Ves׳ seis anchored in that mellow light, appear as wrought gold galleons in a magic sea.
Behind us, a mocking bird takes up his early morning hymn. A breeze stirs restlessly. Cloud regiments of fog are tenderly wrapping a neighbor׳ ing hill top and its velvet slopes in the softest, sweetest mist in the world.
To our other side, we see fog׳’ wraiths, unloosing their slender forms from a neighboring valley. Caress׳ ingly, unwillingly, they seem to un׳ tangle their fingers from the stately trees. Silently, swiftly, ere the coming sun finds them in their amours, they steal away.
Fragrance is abroad. The balsam of Monterey pines tinctures the air with indescribable natural perfume. Wild flowers that grow in surges down the hillsides, add their assailing sweetness to the dawn. We smell the cypress trees. Exhilaration steals into our systems. Our eyes sparkle, and we expand our grateful lungs with air like wine. The great, clean, unchang׳ ing outdoors of the Peninsula makes us younger. Life is full—and good!
AND that was Monterey of old. xV A Spanish city of beauty and nature׳loving men and women. But not all was romance. Beneath the light and happy surface of life on the Peninsula, there flowed purpose and responsibility. Here was the center from which radiated the activities of the grand old Padre, Junipero Serra. Here he lived and directed the spread of those staunch old missions which all Californians honor.
San Carlos Mission was established at Monterey in 1770, one of the earl׳ iest among missions. But little later it was moved to Carmel—and was officially designated San Carlos Bor׳
romeo del Carmelo de Monterey. Here was Father Serra’s own charge, and when he died he was buried in the sanctuary of the chapel. San Carlos Church of Monterey was also established in 1770.
Through years and decades of ad׳ venturous growth the Missions were stable molders of the serious thought of the people. And Alcaldes came and went, building their fortitude and in׳ spiration into the passing years.
Finally, Mexico wrested herself from the Spanish throne, and Monte׳ rey, no longer Capital of a Spanish Province, became the guiding star of a Mexican State. Few more than a
[10]There are numberless beauty spots on the Peninsula. If one especially likes landscapes, they are of every kind, Here are typical glimpses of vastly varying Peninsula scenes.FULFILMENT
score of years later, the American nag was raised over the old Customs House, and the Peninsula became part of American territory.
Even then, growth was gradual in Monterey. Just a few people who loved the outdoors, and sought the sea, the mountains, trees, flowers, brilliant sunsets, and an equable climate, would come to see—and settle down.
Finally came news of gold! Gold to be had for the digging! The Pe׳ ninsula, like the rest of the world, flamed with excitement. Men packed a few necessities and departed. There was an exodus from the coast, and the mountain ranges in the interior of the territory swarmed with anxious, vig׳ orous men.
Monterey quietly lived on. Gold seekers made great trails up and down the state. Mountain passes and valley paths marked as directly as possible, routes to and from the diggings.
Few men of ambition were left in the dear old village of romance. When a Constitutional Convention met in the original Capitol in ’49, it was voted to move the seat of government into the interior—nearer the excite׳ ment and activity. Monterey did not demur. If she had entertained visions of some day being the Capital of a great commonwealth, she stoically watched that vision dissolve with adjournment of the assembly.
Then the last phase of political power and influence departed from the Peninsula. There were still dreams of commercial mightiness how׳ ever. A few staunch׳hearted men ap׳ praised natural advantages and saw a future Monterey of tremendous ship׳ ping importance. The priceless bay would be the natural outlet for great
Central California, and Monterey would speed to all the world, the pro׳ duce of the Empire at her back. But fate decreed differently in those years, though still this bay may be a ship׳ ping power of the descending future.
At any rate, San Francisco became a city—as did Los Angeles. Monte׳ rey nestled close in against the ma׳ jestic hills of the old Peninsula, and the first port of them all saw the world grow ambitious and speed by.
But if the world sped by, individual men with great hearts and discerning minds did not. Occasionally in the rugged mountain camps, a tale of Monterey was told. Striking occas׳ ional eager ears, or a hungry soul, a sympathetic spark was wakened by legend or story. The next day, there would be but ashes where a man had camped, and a lover of the beautiful— tired of the rabble and scramble of lust—would be miles on his way to the Peninsula.
Then came the time when the Southern Pacific system was to choose a location for a great resort. All Cali׳ fornia lay in expectancy before the chief officials—but the Peninsula was made Del Monte’s site! The world’s most equable, delightful climate, and natural attractions surpassing those of all other places, decided them. Now charming, world׳famed Hotel Del Monte has for over 40 years lent lustre to the Peninsula, as the Penin׳ sula has lent allurement to Del Monte.
Meanwhile, in stage or steamer, railroad car or prairie schooner, indi׳ viduals susceptible to the recountings of romance, and hoping ever for fulfil׳ ment of long nursed dreams—would hear. And the Peninsula grew in selective persons who came to see or rest, to visit or play—and stayed to live.
[12]World famous Del Monte Hotel and the sweeping curve of Monterey Bay seen from the air. Del Monte, looking inland to the hills and the ribbon highway that mounts their crests. Boman plunge and views in Del Monte park.FULFILMENT
Thus were affectionately born the several communities about Monterey. Pacific Grove and Carmel׳by׳the׳Sea evolved. In later years came Asilo' mar, Pebble Beach, and Carmel High׳
lands. The communities all are rich in Nature’s profoundest blessings, and each is vastly rich in its own right in special ways. Each has individual charms that will appeal to you.
THE Monterey Peninsula is on no world highway. It is not a center from which radiate numerous railroad tracks. It has not thus far been inviting to giant industries and enterprises. It hitherto has never told its story to the world. But it has always been stra׳ tegically situated for living and rest׳ ing, for playing and becoming youthful again. And for working—if facility to marts of the world is not one’s requirement.
Thus, men who love Nature have found the Peninsula the embodiment of their dreams of old. Here they have found respite from their labors. Men whose boyhood was never lived, have found it here in their maturity. Many have retired, fulfilling youthful aspi׳ rations in a land of fairy goodness. Others have homes here, that Nature’s finest handiwork might be their eternal playground. Still others plan, dream and create here, executing their plans and dreams where industries dwell.
Artists and authors too numerous to list, have paid tribute to the Penin׳ sula. A few of them are Richard Henry Dana, Robert Louis Stevenson, Charles Warren Stoddard, Gouver׳
neur Morris, Harry Leon Wilson, Sam Blythe, Peter Clarke MacFarlane, Mary Austin, Armin Hansen, and Francis McComas. Most of these have lived here, or now have homes here. Some of them are actively in׳ terested in the organizations of Penin׳ sula citizens.
There is manifest loyalty to the Pe׳ ninsula from all who live here. Now what do these people find to make them so devoted? Description is difficult, but there is the wondrous outdoors, comfortable and inviting the year around. For instance, people who have never “cared for trees,’’ come to the Peninsula and learn to regard them with awe and ever׳in׳ creasing admiration.
He who dwells on the Peninsula may skirt the forests on fine motor roads, peering into depths shot here and there with sunlight. He may enter—you may enter—the great woods by bridle or foot paths, and see slanting, slender rays of sun like gold׳ en hair—spilling themselves every׳ where through heavy growth of leaves.
There are Monterey pines, fir, and live oak trees, and other species too
[Mlfulfilment
numerous to mention. Gorgeous wild lilac bushes, tree siz;ed, glorious in bloom and number, will fascinate you. There are stately eucalyptus trees, the most queenly trees of the world. They have towering bare trunks of pink and cream, or gray and white, and leaves which weave Chantilly lace, far, far overhead against Cerulean skies. They are aristocratic, graceful, sometimes ragged denizens from a foreign world, lending their pervasive breath and slender charm to the calm loveliness of the woodlands.
Birds of brilliant hue trill paeans of praise from vantage points everywhere. There is a flutter of wings, and some bright bird you have never known existed lifts far out of sight. Others play an excited game of hide and seek among the gnarled old cypresses. Cypresses such as are nowhere else in the world!
Famous Lone Cypress stands gaunt and brave; his patient vigil of the centuries not to be given up. With bared roots clinging to the seaswept rocks, he stands a grim and grizzled veteran of a legion years.
Like gray old men, others with twisted trunks huddle low, and folding their foliage close about them lean away from far-come ocean winds. Henna-colored moss, delicately adorning ash-hued trunks, gives peculiar vivacity to some old, road-sheltering stalwarts.
These are the mysterious trees which captivated Stevenson, and which people come from over all the world to see. You will look long at our cypress trees—whose only home on earth is here. In one grove around Cypress Point are some 12,750 of them. Charles׳ Warren Stoddard wrote many years ago, Their...........
“roots writhe out of the earth and strike into it again like pythons in a rage......every angle of their lean,
gray boughs seems to imply something. Who will interpret these hieroglyphics? Blood-red sunsets flood this haunted wood; there is a sound of a deep drawn sigh passing through it at intervals. The moonlight fills it with mystery; and along its rocky front, where the sea-flowers blossom and the sea-grass waves its flossy locks, the soul of the poet and of the artist meet and mingle between shadowless sea and cloudless sky, in the unsearchable mystery of that cypress solitude.” Enchantment is in the woods!
Monterey Pines will charm you. They are the fastest growing trees in the world, and because of their great commercial value, have been imported by Australia, Hawaii, and New Zealand. If you are on the Peninsula in the winter time, you may see the amazing butterfly pines of Pacific Grove. In a sheltered spot they stand, not far from the water’s edge. Here, safe from chilling winds, millions of great brown butterflies spend the winter. Suddenly in November they appear. Suddenly in mid-March they vanish. The mystery of their arrival and departure has never been solved, but instinct somehow directs them to these particular pines.
Daytimes, they busily flutter about roses and lilies which abound throughout the season. But evenings and during showers, they go to their selected trees and hang motionless to the kindly boughs. These delicate creatures appreciate the climate of the Peninsula, as you will.
Flowers? They are everywhere! A perfect profusion of them! There is no season without its special bursts of
MPeninsula homes of modest mien. Prom modern Spanish types and rustic cottages, they vary to restored adobes, such as the upper right corner. Bottom left is an ancient 'dobe.FULFILMENT
bloom. Countless bobbing, colorful heads people meads and hills in festal abandon. Like great crowds of gos׳ siping sprites they are, hubbubing and twinkling in dancing sunlight.
The Peninsula flowers are so lovely, so profuse withal, they well may seem the souls of dreams, dreamed by happy Spanish generations of the cherished past. Fifty׳two weeks of every year you may exult in flowers, and grow them in your door ׳yard or your lawns. Even decrepit, gray old dwellings of a by׳gone age are sympa׳ thetically tended by splurges of bios׳ soms in their nooks and crannies. An occasional crumbling ’dobe wall is seen almost buried in a wealth of climbing roses or colorful vines. Mutely proud are these ruins, of the ever׳blooming flowers which tumble over them.
On the Peninsula, summer grass on the hills is golden. Tawny, rolling hilhsides are beautiful to climb, and witching to look at across a picture valley of flowers and trees. From a distance, great clumps of trees like velvet moss are clinging to their hump׳ ing curves. Live oaks they are, always green and friendly׳appearing old fel׳ lows. They grow singly or in groups, and dot the hillsides with deep, rich verdancy. In winter months, the many slopes turn green—a gracious background for the brilliant winter flowers.
From the top of some fine hill, you may have sweeping views of bays and ocean. Imagine the witchery, the ex׳ hilaration of a morning ride or drive through a forest vale. Then a gentle slope to ascend, and a summit with a breathtaking view on every hand! Far, far below, the crescent bay with a gleaming beach, and a narrow strip of
silver foam where the waves subside! Glistening tile roofs of a bay׳side town, and splashes of color where flowers have smothered a hillside or a garden׳plot!
Above, straight pines tower into white galleons of the sky—the fog— hurrying to be gone from the moun׳ tain tops. From another point, we see the white sand of the beach give way to a rock׳bound coast. Breakers restlessly roll in, and halted by ada׳ mant rock, they froth in momentary fury and are gone. Great age׳old piles jut up from the sea, covered with gulls. As by magic signal, they rise as one, circle a sweep of the shore and subside again.
If you ride for a bit, you may see vast sand dunes. White and as bright as snow they are. Drifting slowly, silently, subtly, they are captivating in their shifting slopes and stunted brush. You pass round them, and startled little animals scurry for cover.
Far out on the breast of the sea, a small sail glints. A bright launch moves lazily astern, and silhouettes itself against the morning sky. To the right a hybrid fleet of fishing ves׳ seis goes quietly about its business. Bright birds dart among the trees. Warblers, overcome with the joys of living, fairly swell their throats in gladsome song. Beautifully, dumbly eloquent, a majestic, nobler brother on motionless wings poises far overhead.
Or if you are early enough at Mont׳ erey Bay, you may see the sun nuzzle little clouds away from the mountain tops, and claim his sky. The great hills over the bay a milky pink—the bay as flat as glass and every pastel tint upon its surface! Nowhere but under distant piers are deepened hues. You have seen unstrung pearls on
[17]FULF	ILMENT
satin trays? Such colors you will see where Monterey Bay is marked on maps. It is exquisite, sheer—exaspe-ratingly impossible of reproduction I
A jaunt on the Peninsula’s Famous Seventeen׳Mile Drive unfolds an ever-changing panorama of scenic beauty. One sees every sort of glorious thing, from the most wonderful championship golf-courses, to primitive forests, great forbidding shores, flower-girt little homes, great expansive villas recessed in the hills. And so on, endlessly.
At eventide, you may pause in awesome wonder where thousands of gulls take wing from the land. Off-shore they head, where giant, jutting rocks knee-deep in breaking waves invite them. There is incessant fluttering and clouds of gulls rise and fall between the shore and rocks. Finally the sky is cleared of the countless wings, and the rocks are blanketed with gulls retired till dawn.
Then we may follow a ribbon road, winding its way into a cordon of trees. Within them is a typical Peninsula home. It is shaded by magnificent branches of the aged forest tribes. Again it is bathed in the warm sun that sinks each night into the peaceful ocean. There is an expanse of smooth lawn giving way at one side to a great outgrowth of cypresses from the forest. On another side, it blends into a several-acre bed of breeze-swayed flowers.
From the stretch of wide veranda, a great rollicking hill drops down to the bay—deep, gorgeous blue. No water is so clear, so inviting, so clean, as here. Breakers over all the earth may die in chaste-appearing foam. But nowhere else do waves appear so transparent and sapphire-like in color.
In the evening, the man who lives on such a hill, sees night descend in entrancing beauty. First there is twilight. The sun sinks slowly into the ocean. Hill tops far away are radiant as the last rays lightly bid them adieu. The great trees push long fingers of shade toward nodding flowers, to prepare them for the deeper shades of night. Purple haze settles over the mountains. Birds in the gardens sing sweet nocturnes. A friendly moon enquiringly peeks over the tree tops, and finding the gentleness of eve before him, lifts into his vaulted sky.
The stars are brilliant. Hardly out of reach they are, flirting with the lights of cozy launches, reflected on the silent bay. How close are stars to you? Here on the Peninsula, they twinkle just above our heads like fairy guardians of our happy homes.
Another time you might go south of Carmel, where bay meets ocean, and Point Lobos juts—a natural monarch—far toward the western sun. Buttressed rocks, rough piled in aeons past, tower defiantly over the deep green seas, inviting to anyone who would stand atop the earth. By dint of a little exertion, you may get to the uttermost, uppermost point. Gaunt trees lightly clothe the virgin rocks and wierdly twist their low and naked branches over primitive paths.
The blue bay sweeps from you in a foam fringed curve. Far below your feet are eddies of clear, lashing waters, mingling with swirls from black-mawed caverns no one knows how deep. Here is reverence-compelling union of all Creation’s elements. Here men feel how great is Universe and how small are we. Here one may well conjecture California had her genesis.
[18]More pretentious Peninsula h omes —and a 'dobe under construction. Note the various settings. Here one may choose a site to suit his fondest dreams.FULFILMENT
Near at hand, the roadway taps the Carmel Valley, where velvet sided hills grow into rugged mountains, and on their other side reluctantly give way to level pastures.
Occasional ranch houses snuggle in׳ to narrow glens and fairly dare the hills to push them into smiling fields of grain. As afternoon wanes, shad׳ ows cast by high, smooth humps slowly touch the flats to sleep and the varying chains of scenic treats sink themselves in soft twilight hazes. The broad Pacific valley settles into slumber.
IIFE on the Peninsula is one long round of companionship with kindly Nature. All modern things are here. But Nature is so bountifully present that you hold communion with her daily. Is it any wonder hearts are light on the Peninsula? Is it any wonder men find their legs springier, their lungs more eager and grateful? Is it to be wondered that here shoulders lift and cares are for׳ gotten? Why the exertions toward a livelihood if the soul be not feasted as wellas the body? What is the use of in׳ come if you are not completely happy? What is the use of means, if you are not in perfect accord with your own life, and your living?
Here, you may gaze just so long on Nature’s countenance; you may just so long drink in the blessings of com׳ fort and content—then your heart swells with thanksgiving, and you are reborn in youthful gratitude for Life!
Here you may build a home as pa׳ latial or as modest as the taste and in׳
come which will give it birth. You will never find it hot here. You will never find it cold. Temperature tables untampered with, shown else׳ where in this book, are your bond for this.
You may have a marine or a moun׳ tain view, or both. Woods, hills, val׳ leys, bays, the open sea—every ele׳ ment that has made Nature loved of man since Time began, is here in one measure or another. Here for you— your family, your health, your pleas׳ ure and your happiness.
There are sites for all tastes, all in׳ comes—for your particular require׳ ments. You may situate in a rustic spot, or you may landscape and culti׳ vate your ground. You may indulge in flower culture for pleasure, or per׳ haps commercially. You may build where you will have refined retire׳ ment and seclusion, or you may build where your little garden will hobnob with a neighbor’s little garden. But wherever it be, many of your blessings will be in common with the other lovers of the Peninsula. Flowers will bloom as unquestioningly for you as for anyone. Birds will grace your trees as they grace the trees of others. The bays, the sea, hills, vales, and all are yours! You will become joint holder of the natural loveliness of this special much׳loved portion of the earth.
Here, the population is small, the area great. We seek only a visit from you. If you come among us and are our type, you will stay among us—or return. Then you will find how great a thing it is to be! And if you’ve really hoped and longed for better days, you’ll find fulfilment.
[20]Pacific Grove Grammar School above, and. Monterey Grammar School at left.
Some of the Peninsula’s Schools.
Pacific Grove High School at left.
Monterey High School above, and Sunset School at Carmel to the right.Fulfilment
PART
RICH in tradition and legend, the Monterey Peninsula is also rich in material memorials of her old days. Visitors to California never tire of viewing the Peninsula’s historic buildings. Before them, with dreamy eyes one may pierce the misty veils of the past, and see the long gone generations live once more.
MISSIONS AT MONTEREY AND CARMEL
On June 3, 1770, Father Serra founded the San Carlos Mission of Monterey. But little later, it was removed to the Carmel Valley, about six miles distant. Now it is called Carmel Mission. Father Serra and fifteen Governors of the early territory are buried in this consecrated church. It is the most famous of all Franciscan Missions, and is visited by thousands of tourists annually.
The Church of San Carlos de Monterey was erected in 1794, and was known as the Royal Chapel. Here worshipped the representatives of the King of Spain. It is an interesting old structure. The transept and present main altar were erected in 1858.
THE CUSTOM HOUSE
To most people, the Old Custom House in Monterey is the most interesting building on the Pacific Coast. In the earliest days, it was not only used for conduct of Royal business, but it was a social center for Spanish aristocrats. Here beneath the Spanish flag, pressing matters of state were
settled, and gala balls were held. The upper end was built in 1814 by the Spaniards. The center section was built by the Mexicans when they had wrested independence from Spain. In 1846, Commodore Sloat raised an American Flag over the building, and the lower end of the Custom House was built by the Americans. First Spanish, then Mexican, then United States property—the Custom House is now owned by the State of California. It is an adobe structure, and in good preservation.
COLTON HALL
Here was the cradle of the Western Empire: the first capitol of California. Commodore Stockton, who succeeded Commodore Sloat, appointed Reverend Walter Colton the Alcalde of Monterey. Colton had been chaplain of the historic frigate Congress. Later, Colton was elected Alcalde by the people. Ambitious for a state house, he set about raising funds with typical fervor. Subscriptions, court fines, prison labor, gambling levies—all did their share toward rearing Colton Hall. Here in September, 1849, nret the first Constitutional Convention of California. The City of Monterey now uses this ancient structure— which is in excellent condition—as a City Hall.
California's first brick house
A stone’s throw from the Old Custom House stands the first brick
Historic Buildings. Reading from top down: San Carlos Church, Robert Louis Stevenson House, Colton Hall, Custom House, Old Pacific Building, Carmel Mission.fulfilment
structure California ever saw. A Vir ׳ ginian named Dickinson built this home from bricks kilned in Monterey. In those days before the Gold Rush, it was a show spot of Monterey. Like the old adobes, it seems to rest eter׳ nally beneath the soft sun, and wonder why so many people regard it awe׳ somely. Recently, there was torn down in Monterey, the first house of milled׳lumber built in California, brought here by an Australian who didn’t know trees grew in America.
THE LARKIN HOUSE
In 1832, Thomas O. Larkin came to Monterey. He opened a wholesale and retail store, and became the first and only United States Consul to California. Larkin performed stellar service toward bringing California under the American flag. The large adobe home he built almost a hundred years ago, is a point of great interest to visitors and is still occupied by a descendant of the builder.
sherman’s headquarters
Next to the Larkin house is another adobe built by Larkin in 1834. Here was headquartered William Tecumseh Sherman when he was stationed at Monterey. At that time—the man who was later to be a famous Civil War General was a Lieutenant. Gen׳ eral Halleck was headquartered at the same place. Sherman as a youth in Monterey, figured in one of Monte׳ rey's wistful legends.
SHERMAN ROSE HOUSE
Young Sherman was enamored of “the most beautiful señorita of the town.” When he was ordered East he called to take his farewell. He was wearing a “cloth׳of׳gold” rose which the two of them reverently planted. Sherman declared that when the rose bloomed he would return for the Señorita. Years rolled by. The rose
grew and enveloped the Señorita’s doorway and wall with blossoming branches. Into old age waited the faithful Señorita, but Sherman never returned. Recently, Sherman Rose House was removed to make way for a modern bank building. It is being restored in another part of the city.
HOUSE OF THE FOUR WINDS
This rambling old structure was the first in this community to boast a weather vane. Thus it received its name. Also built by Larkin, the House of the Four Winds was the first Hall of Records of the State. It is now used as a Club building by the Monterey Woman’s Civic Club.
California’s first theater
This was one of California’s proud׳ est spots in early days. Here Span׳ iards, Mexicans, and Americans gath׳ ered for entertainment and diversion. In 1847, strolling thespians from Los Angeles played here in the long׳for׳ gotten drama, “Putnam, or the Lion Son of ’76.” In 1849 and 1850, one of America’s most famous early humor׳ ists regaled audiences here. “John Phoenix”and “Squibob”he was called, though his name was Lieutenant John Derby. Here the beloved Jenny Lind is supposed to have sung on her Amer׳ ican tour in i85O52׳. This building is now used as an historical museum.
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON HOUSE
Here is one of America’s most loved shrines. Stevenson, attracted here from Europe by the woman who be׳ came his wife, started his many Pe׳ ninsula jaunts from this old building. In this great old adobe, Stevenson be׳ gan “The Amateur Emigrant,” wrote “The Pavilion on the Links” and his essay on Thoreau. From this home, Stevenson explored the Peninsula, and gathered site descriptions for later books, such as Treasure Island. This
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literary memorial is said to be visited by more people annually than any other in the world, save only Shakes׳ peare’s home at Stratford׳on׳Avon.
POINT PINOS LIGHTHOUSE
Point Pinos was named by Viscaino when he named Monterey in 1602. On this headland, about two miles west of Pacific Grove, is one of the oldest lighthouses of the Pacific Coast. Built about the time of the Gold Rush, it has long been a beacon of safety to countless mariners.
SLOAT MONUMENT
There is one monument outside of Washington, D. C., partially financed by congress in commemoration of an officer’s deeds. That single monument stands on the Monterey Peninsula. Congress appropriated $ 10,000 toward this memorial, which honors the man who took possession of California for the United States in 1846. On a hill in the Federal reservation it rests, with a granite base built of contribut׳ ed blocks from 35 California counties, cities and interested organizations.
OLD PACIFIC BUILDING
This is the home of Monterey Pe׳ ninsula Communities Incorporated— a nonprofit organization of citizens of the communities of the Monterey Peninsula, interested in the Peninsula’s sound development. This old ’dobe was built in 1847 by Thomas O. Lark׳ in. The upper story was used as a boarding house for sailors. The first floor served as courthouse, jail, and storehouse. All windows, above and below, were iron׳barred to protect the inmates against Indians and ma׳ rauders. In the old Mexican days the back yard, surrounded by a high adobe wall, was used for bear and bull fights. In 1866 the property came into the possession of the Jacks family. It makes a fitting office for an organiza׳ tion such as Monterey Peninsula Communities Incorporated, bent on making this historic and beauteous section of California better known to the world. In this staunch old adobe you will be cordially welcomed if you will call on us and you will be given information and literature which will help you to more pleasantly be׳ come acquainted with the Peninsula.
Golf and Other Sports
GOLF ranks first among the Penin׳ sula’s sports. Here, the golfer experiences new heights of enjoy׳ ment, new thrills of exhilaration and satisfaction, and most likely new sen׳ sations of improvement.
There are two splendid courses on the Peninsula; one on the Hotel Del Monte grounds, the other at Del Monte Lodge, near Pebble Beach. Tees, fairways, and greens are verdant throughout the year on the Del Monte course. The Lodge course skirts woodlands, crosses sandy dunes, paral׳ lels rugged cliffs and sandy beaches. This second course—on the very edge
of the Pacific—is called the “sportiest" in the United States.
The championship character of the courses is attested by their selection for the State title tournaments each year. Then other tournaments are held here. As many as fortyffive a year have been played, open to all amateurs on weekends and holidays.
The courses are kept in the finest condition throughout the year, and the balmy climate makes playing al׳ ways pleasant. Winter and summer the game is equally popular. A round gives one inspiring vistas and views of forests, mountains and sea. Polo also
A few glimpses of typical Peninsula sports. From championship golf to polo, f rom hiking to tennis. The nimrod and the fisherman find great sport here, too.FULFI	LMENT
is played on the Peninsula on two Del Monte fields.
The fragrance of trees and flowers, and the invigorating tang of the ocean add immensely to the zest of the game, and without discomfort, two rounds of 18 holes may easily be played in a day. Even in the rainy season, there is rarely a day when a round may not more comfortably and happily be made than anywhere else. Golf enthusiasts find here new charm and new tonic in the game.
Tennis is played on excellent courts at Del Monte, Monterey, Asilomar, Pacific Grove, Pebble Beach and Carmel. On the Peninsula, tennis is a year round game. Winter playing is delightful. Summers are never too warm for best play.
Horseback riding is a premier sport on the Peninsula. There are miles and miles of intriguing bridle paths through Del Monte forest and over the rugged mountain trails below Carmel and the Highlands. There is “fish-hook curve” to follow around Monterey Bay, and the halfmoon beach at Carmel. For a strenuous ride, there is the mountainous coastline to the south, and twisting trails through the Santa Lucia range.
Aquatic sports are indulged in more commonly each year. There are outdoor plunges and several beaches. The beach at Pacific Grove, facing the east is always protected, and year round surf bathing is enjoyed here. At Carmel is another beach, popular with Peninsula residents and visitors. Motor boating and sailing are popular. The clear blue water of the bays is sometimes dotted with small craft.
Pacific Grove has famous roque courts which are annually visited by roque enthusiasts from far and wide. A roque organization keeps interest in the game high.
Fishermen never find such sport as around the Peninsula. Due to meeting in Monterey Bay of currents from
opposite directions, more forms of marine life are prevalent here than anywhere else in the world. Several important biological laboratories have been established on the Peninsula through virtue of this fact. Salmon, fighting yellow-tail, pompano, sea bass, barracuda, albacore, sea trout, tuna, rock cod, smelt, sand dabs, flounders—and on into an astounding list of game fish are caught here.
Trout fishing is good in the mountain streams of the Peninsula. When the season is early, and there are steelhead in the streams, it is a common sight to see fishermen along the Carmel River landing four to ten-pound-ers.
For the fisherman who wants gamey fish, there is thrill after thrill. For the fisherman who wants less fight and finny results, there is gratification. You who love fishing have new treats in store on the Peninsula.
Hunting on the Peninsula is real sport. There is game to suit the individual and the arms. Countless valley quail, known as the gamest of all small birds, abound on the Peninsula. In nearby hills are mountain quail galore. In season, ducks are common, and provide much pleasure for those who like to hunt web-footed game.
Deer and mountain lions are to be had in the ranges, and according to the Fish and Game Commission, no part of the state has more abundant deer. You, then, who find great sport in rifle and in shot-gun, can test your veriest skill on game to match your mood.
By all means if you love the great outdoors, and if you care for sport and communion with Nature, you will revel in the glories of the Monterey Peninsula. Description fails to convey the year-round wonders of these communities. A visit to the Peninsula is the only way to measure its blessings—and its offerings.FULFILMEN	T
Literature on the Peninsula
PERHAPS no spot on earth has been so loved by people who have accomplished things, as the Monterey Peninsula. Tributes have been glowingly included in the writings of celebrated authors since the early eighteen hundreds. There are warm appreciations and wistful eulogies, colorful descriptions and impassioned endorsements.
An awesomely great aggregation there would be if the famous personages of the Peninsula could foregather, and pool their kindly praises of our home. But let us briefly mention a few of those who here found delight and an elixir of happy living.
Captain Robinson was one of the first to treat of Monterey. In 1829, his Monterey was a sleepy, lovable place—described in his “Life of California.” At that time, cattle grazed where now stand most of Monterey’s businesses.
In 1835, Richard Henry Dana found Monterey but little changed. In “Two Years Before the Mast,” Monterey appears a colorful town on a gorgeous bay. Dana was a youthful sailor then, and appreciated the hilltop fort—the Presidio, then the center of the town’s activities. With Dana’s masterpiece as your guide— a fit companion to “Robinson Crusoe” William Cullen Bryant observed—you may wander through Pacific Grove, Monterey, Pebble Beach, and Carmel, following his very footsteps. Dana in those early days ate his snack of “salt horse” where you may now play golf. And you may enter ’dobe buildings which Dana visited four score years ago. Dim, romantic figures stand out vividly in Dana’s descriptions, and to him we are indebted for historic pictures of rare charm. Literary pilgrims find pleasure here in annotating copies of “Two Years Before the Mast.”
Bayard Taylor, poet, essayist, and travel writer walked from San Francisco to Monterey, in 1849. Here he was a spectator at the sessions of the constitutional delegates. After the gold rush, he wrote in “El Dorado:” “Monterey has the appearance of a deserted town; few people in the streets, business deserted.” But times changed, even while Taylor lived.
Most interesting of all literary landmarks on the Peninsula however, is the old adobe which Stevenson made his home. Here, the beloved “Louis” as he was then called, glorified in writing. Here he rambled on long walks, exulted in Nature, and marvelled at wondrous trees and views. Aside from volumes written here, “Prince Otto” was planned in the “two airy rooms with the five windows” which you may see today. Here also he prepared copious notes for his “Old Pacific Capitol.”
These words of Stevenson are revealing. “The ancient capital of California faces across the bay, while the Pacific Ocean, though hidden by low hills and forest, bombards her left flank and rear with never-dying surf. .... The waves which lap so quietly about the jetties of Monterey grow louder and larger in the distance; you can see the breakers leaping high and white by day; at night, the outline of the shore is traced in transparent silver by the moonlight and the flying foam; and from all round, even in quiet weather, the low, distant, thrilling roar of the Pacific hangs over the coast and the adjacent country like smoke above a battle.
“The woods and the Pacific rule between them the climate of this seaboard region. On the streets of Monterey, when the air does not smell salt from the one, it will be blow
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ing perfumed from the resinous tree׳ tops of the other.”
Years after Stevenson’s friend Si׳ moneau had grown old, and Louis was dead, great sums were offered the old tamale vender for his many Stevenson letters. “They were not to the public,” he would remark, “They were Louis’ letters to me.” And the old man who might have lived his de׳ dining years in luxury, clung to his sheaf of Stevenson letters, and pre׳ ferred to live in poverty.
Years after Stev׳ enson lived in Mon׳ terey, he used the Peninsula’s scenic background for the description of the island where Flint and his pirates
buried treasure. The literary en׳ thusiast can find the very cave he reads of in Treasure Island, where the Hispanola landed her treasure seekers. Here also, you may see the long stretches of sand dunes over which they toiled. Here are the thickets of live oaks in which Jim Hawkins con׳ cealed himself as he listened to the pirate conference. Here is the spot from which he beheld John Silver strike down with his crutch a mate who refused to join in the projected plan of murder. Stevenson cronies will find a wealth of references to make the Peninsula more interesting to them. The country of Treasure Is׳ land is within easy walking distance of the Peninsula Communities.
Another famous writer whose name is linked with the Monterey Penin׳ sula is Charles Warren Stoddard. “A Memory of Monterey” appearing in “In the Footprints of the Padres” is one of the most exquisite bits of writ׳ ing that ever came from his expressive pen. “She was a dear old stupid town in my day,” he writes, “Geese fed in the gutters and hissed at the passers׳
by. Cows grazed by the way side and eyed the wayfarer in grave surprise. Overhead the snow׳white sea gulls wheeled and cried peevishly, and on the heights that ring the old Capital round on the landward side, the pine trees moaned and held the sea fog in their branches, while the little town was basking in the sunshine and dreaming its endless dream.”
Stoddard—noted traveler that he was—made Monterey his home from the time he came in the early eighties, until his death in 1909. He was laid to rest within sound of the long blue rollers which break on the tawny beach of Monterey — the
sound he loved best of all. And the trade wind blowing salt from the sea, wafts with it soft perfumes from the “islands of tranquil delight, ”which he loved so well.
The Peninsula is still a “haven of all desire” to the brotherhood of writers. George Sterling—California poet—lived here while Stoddard was still alive. Mary Austin, coming down to the sea from the desert sage and blue distances of her “Land of Little Rain” found inspiration in the rugged pines, the silver dunes and sapphire waters of the Peninsula. She has her home—“The Wickiup” in Carmel. Here she wrote “Ysidro,” part of “The Flock,” and many of her “Lost Border Stories.”
Harry Leon Wilson wrote “Bunker Bean,” “Ruggles of Red Gap,” and “Merton of the Movies” at Ocean Home, his estate at Carmel High׳ lands.
Gouverneur Morris’ home is at Monterey—a flower surrounded, re׳ stored ’dobe—and he pays happy tribute to the “variedly, deliciously,
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and peacefully beautiful Monterey Peninsula.”
Peter Clark MacFarlane has his home in Pacific Grove—where he has done much of his best work.
The home where Samuel G. Blythe writes many of his articles is at Pebble Beach.
Other well known writers of the day who have their homes on the Peninsula are Frederick Bechdolt, James Hopper, Alice Magowan, Grace Mac-
Gowan Cooke, John Northern Hilliard, and Robert Welles Ritchie. Writers of our Communities have been represented by stories and articles in as many as 46 out of 52 successive issues of the Saturday Evening Post. In addition to the numerous literati dwelling here, literary persons from the corners of the world come here every year to work and rest, and find clean inspiration in the glorious outdoors.
Drama on the Peninsula
IF you have imagination, conjure up in your mind a woodland amphitheater. Feature a stage in a setting of towering pines, and seats on a fragrant hillside. Imagine a sumptuous setting beyond the ingenuity of man to imitate. If your powers of envisioning are great enough, you may see in your mind’s eye the Forest Theater of Carmel-by-the-Sea, one of the most famous outdoor theaters of the world.
In the fourteen years of its existence it has created a standard of acting and production that has made it famous wherever the drama is known. In order to appreciate the work of the Forest Theater players, it should be remembered that for the first years of its existence, Carmel-by-the-Sea was neither a town nor a village. It was a colony—a gathering of artists, scientists, professors, and literary folk. Here they were united by a common love of beauty, and appreciation for a climate most conductive to sustained application to their interests. For Carmel has the most equable climate in the world.
Out of the group evolved a desire for expression in another form of art— and the Carmelites dedicated this Forest Theater—their first Temple to Thespis.
Here there is no practice of pro
fessionalism. People of the community do all the necessary things for creditable production of their plays. And on this rustic stage, independent of the traditions of indoor playhouses, the Carmelites have presented some four-score productions. Many of them stand as milestones which mark the advance of outdoor drama in California, where admittedly outdoor drama is at its best.
The first play produced was “David,” a Biblical drama, in the summer of 1910. Followed a long list which includes two plays by Mary Austin—“Fire” and “The Arrow Maker”—which she produced personally; “Tusitala”—a masque of Robert Louis Stevenson, written especially for production in the Forest Theater; an extravaganza based on Lewis Carroll’s “Alice in Wonderland;” “Twelfth Night;” Benrimo and Hazelton’s naive “Yellow Jacket;” W. S. Gilbert's “Pygmalion and Gala-tea;” “Kismet;” “A Midsummer Night’s Dream;” Bernard Shaw’s “Arms and the Man;” and “Andro-cles and the Lion.”
There have also been produced a number of original plays by native and outside writers. Every year the Forest Theater Society offers a prize of $100 for the best outdoor play submitted. This prize was won in 1923
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by Helen Coale Crews of Chicago. Her play—“The Cradle”—was produced in July. Principal productions are given every summer in Fourth of July week, at which time thousands of people make a pilgrimage to the Peninsula to attend the outdoor festivals. These summer productions at Carmel are becoming as famous to California as Oberammergau’s production is to Europe.
In addition to the Forest Theater, the Arts and Crafts Club of Carmel has maintained a Little Theater for many years. This Club has just built a new and thoroughly up-to-date
Theater for its productions. Pageants and celebrations are not unusual on the Peninsula. The people of Carmel usually give an historical pageant in their woods each year. There is an annual al fresco carnival at Pacific Grove known as “The Feast of Lanterns,” and one of Monterey’s annual fetes is the Peninsula Industries and Arts Exposition. Artists, craftsmen, industrial and business people of the Peninsula combine to display to the outside world what is done in their communities. These festivals and celebrations bring thousands of visitors to the Peninsula every year.
Realistic settings mark the productions of the Carmel players. A typically effective set of the Forest Theater.
From the back of the Forest Theater. Looking dozen the sloping forest floor to the stage.
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Art on the Peninsula
THE Monterey Peninsula has long been a favorite haunt of artists. Here has dwelt the inspiration which fed the genius of many talented souls. Outdoor art it has been—the virile art so closely wed to this locality.
Some of the greatest artists of the world have come here to work under ideal conditions, where the very atmosphere and their most common surroundings were an urge to accomplishment.
It was inevitable then, by the kindliness of Nature, that the Monterey Peninsula should become the art center of the Pacific Coast. For those beauties which are not primitive or of nature, have been induced by the wonders of climate. The supernal colorings of mountains, the enrapturing loveliness of valleys, the fantastic beauty of trees, the quaint charm of adobe buildings, the picturesqueness of water-fronts—these and many more appeals are here for the artist.
Thus up and down the world men would hear of this delightful land, and make pilgrimages from afar. There may have been wandering artists who painted the Peninsula before Jules Tavernier, but he was the first of world-wide fame to make his home here. Jules came to Monterey in 1874, while the town was a drowsy, languid, Spanish settlement. His canvases, born of the beauties of the Peninsula and the genius of his soul, have been eagerly sought for by famous collectors of both hemispheres.
From his studio in Monterey he would wander forth about the Peninsula. Like Stevenson, he became a friend of Jules Simoneau. Sometimes lacking in gold or silver to pay his little bills with Simoneau, he’d call for blacking and stale beer. Then from lowly shoe-blacking would come forth an entrancing land or seascape
on Simoneau’s adobe walls. Alas! those walls have long been ruined. But what a mighty figure the connoisseur today would pay for one of those beer and blacking murals!
Other artists of note who are associated with the early days of the Monterey Peninsula are John Ivey—a well known water colorist of England, Keith, Yelland, Julian Rix, and Arthur Mathews—who later painted the mural decorations in the Mechanics Library of San Francisco and the rotunda of the Capitol at Sacramento.
Later came such far-famed men as Charles Rollo Peters, Francis McComas, Maynard Dixon, and Xavier Martinez. McComas still lives in Monterey. William Ritschell, regarded as one of the three greatest marine painters of the age, has an imposing studio at Carmel Highlands. Bruce Nelson and Armin Hansen, men famous in this country and abroad live in Monterey. Jo Mora, most eminent California sculptor, lives on the Peninsula, and has just completed the sarcophagus of Father Junipero Serra at Carmel.
Paul Mays, water colorist and mural decorator, lives in Carmel, as do William Watts, William Silva, and De Neale Morgan. Cornelius Botke of Carmel and Jessie Arms Botke are well known Peninsula artists. Fred Gray and Percy Gray of Monterey, Albert Barrows, Clayton Price, William Adam, Charles Bradford Hudson and Mary Woods are familiar names to followers of art and all of them live on the Peninsula.
Here also, are to be found large and flourishing art classes. Every summer, students from every quarter of the globe gather to study on the Peninsula. Conditions are most favorable, for they may live as well as paint outdoors. The Arts and Crafts Club
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of Carmel has held summer courses in painting, drawing, and sculpture for the last eighteen years. No less a
master than the late William Chase was among the instructors of this organization.
Peninsula Social Life
SOCIAL life on the Monterey Peninsula is one of the most gratifying charms of its several communities. They are a hospitable folk here. This is traditional from the old Spanish days. In that early romantic age everybody kept open house and the stranger within the gates was made welcome with true Castilian courtesy. The spirit, if not the elaborate form of this old-world courtesy survives today. It would be difficult to find a more simple, hearty, openhanded, generous people than those who make up the communities of the Monterey Peninsula.
Here is democracy in its truest, noblest sense. Here men and women are judged more for what they are than for what they have. Here man is gauged by what he has accomplished rather than by what he has accumulated. Here the man of small or moderate means is the peer of the man with the big house and the landed estate. Here people who sincerely like each other foregather with unaffected friendliness.
Here one dresses as unconventionally as he pleases, for outdoor comfort rather than sartorial effect is the aim. The oddest dressed individual you encounter here may very well be one of the greatest marine painters in the world, a distinguished scientist, the president of a great university, the writer of a book that is on everyone’s tongue, or the author of a reigning success on Broadway. Indeed, it is an unwritten law that the dress suit shall not be worn at any function however elaborate, in Carmel-by-the-Sea.
It is no exaggeration to state that you may travel the world over and
not find a community where you can lead so delightful and desirable a social life on a moderate fixed income as here. While it is true that many people of wealth have been attracted to this wonder spot with its unrivaled climate, and have built them large and imposing residences on extensive estates, still the Monterey Peninsula is pre-eminently the seat of small, attractive homes. And nowhere else can a man or woman get so much out of life, social or otherwise, as in the communities that make up the Peninsula.
Almost any type of social life is here for the choosing. If you are artistic or literary, there are literary and art organizations in Monterey, Pacific Grove, and Carmel-by׳the׳Sea. If you have a fondness for the drama, the Forest Theater Society of Carmel will welcome you as a member. Are you interested in music, dancing, painting, sculpture, the indoor drama or any of the hand crafts, the Arts and Crafts Club of Carmel is open to you. The Arts and Crafts Club has a new and thoroughly equipped theater for the indoor drama, and here plays are given every month during the winter season. The stranger in the community who wishes to take up the drama is welcomed into this Club.
If you are a nature lover, there are bird clubs, flower clubs, and tree clubs to claim your allegiance. If you are a garden enthusiast, you will join the Outdoor Circle. The Outdoor Circle is composed of enthusiastic amateur gardeners from all the communities.
In Monterey the Woman’s Civic Club is active in the social life of the city. And the Presidio at MontereyFULFILMENT
is noted for its brilliant social affairs and military balls.
Then there is the Pacific Grove Musical Society, an important organization of instrumentalists and vocalists, lending much to the social life of the Peninsula. The orchestra is composed of thirty pieces and there are forty voices in the chorus. The aims of the society are toward bettering music for the communities and provision for expression of musical talent. No restrictions are placed upon membership, save that one must have musical education sufficient to be constructive and not destructive in the work of the ensemble. Both chorus and orchestra are under expert professional direction. Talented persons from all our communities belong to the Society, and for many people much
is added to the joys of Peninsula life, by this organization.
On the other hand, if you seek more glittering social life there is Del Monte, which at the height of its season is a Paris by the Sea. Del Monte is the camp of fashion, and exuberant and sparkling are its social events. During golf tournaments, polo championships and summer encampments, no place is more modernly gay and fashionable. Del Monte, and Pebble Beach—the Deauville of the Western World—reflect throughout the year the tastes of people of wealth and affluence. In other words, here is social brilliance for those who seek it.
The social scheme of the Monterey Peninsula is most comprehensive, and people of widely divergent tastes will find here what pleases them most and suits their requirements best.
Schools of the Peninsula
PENINSULA people are largely people of education and culture. They provide for their children educational advantages that compare favorably with the best in the country. It should be remembered that California shares honors of leadership in school efficiency with venerable Massachusetts. And Peninsula schools have played their share in ranking California thus in the educational forefront.
The school population of the Peninsula is 1,700. There are two large high schools and four main grammar schools. Monterey Union High
School is a most modern building of mission style—white with red-tile roof. It was built—not to dissipate a school appropriation—but to meet the most exacting requirements of Peninsula residents.
Here children are taught secondary School subjects amid the most approved surroundings. Modern facilities are here at their best. There is a science building with eight classrooms, and complete equipment for the various science courses in the curriculum. A modern manual training department, domestic science plant, complete gymnasium and athletic
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field are among those things provided to make well-rounded boys and girls of Peninsula youths. (See page 21)
The arts and the aesthetic are no less well considered and indulged. The school has a model theater for amateur dramatic entertainments. In lighting and stage equipment, this school theater will compare with any of the country’s “Little Theaters.”
This school is situated on a green hill which overlooks the blue waters of Monterey Bay. Nowhere are better advantages afforded students of high school age. Two hundred and fifty students are enrolled, with seventeen instructors on the staff. Obviously, this is an unusual ratio of students and instructors.
Pacific Grove has another high school of first rank. It, too, overlooks Monterey Bay. Here, complete modern curriculums are placed before the students. Commercial and manual training courses are listed. The school has its own gymnasium and machine shop, athletic field and laboratory equipment. The school is, of course, accredited by all colleges and universities. Enrollment is 200 in this school,
with twelve instructors. The Pacific Grove Grammar School and the Monterey Grammar School are both modern and up-to-date. Ventilation, lighting, sanitary arrangements and other conditions are all calculated to best suit the needs of students—not of politics. The Pacific Grove School was but recently completed, and is a splendid example of modern school architecture.
Sunset School at Carmel-by-the-Sea accommodates grammar school children of that district. It is a charming building of Spanish design, and stands on the edge of a pine and oak forest. Here in most beautiful surroundings, children absorb instruction under modern conditions and tutelage.
Large auto buses are maintained by the high school districts of the Peninsula to convey pupils from the rural districts to and from school.
Pacific Grove is the home of the Hopkins Marine Biological Laboratory — a branch of Stanford University. Specimens of the southern seas and the northern, meet at Monterey Bay, richest in biological specimens of all the waters of the world.
Homes and Building Costs
NOWHERE can a greater assortment of homes—types and styles —be found, than in the Peninsula Communities. For here are sites which will accommodate at their best, homes of every description. To suit tastes and purses which are as far apart as the stars, there are Peninsula homes. But the most modest is equally blessed by Nature, with the most palatial. A jaunt about the Peninsula will reveal the most entrancing wee bungalows and cottages, sometimes set deep in a grotto of pines: again perched on hill-tops amid smiling flowers, and basking in the kindly sun. Always inviting, they are.
Then there are castles of medieval appearance, resting on lofty cliffs, commanding sapphire bays. There are Spanish type homes, glistening white in the sunlight, polychrome walls reflecting parting day; tile roofs above leaded stained glass windows; old adobes with cool patios; grill-railed balconies with majestic outlook; recessed nooks thick with flowers; and myriad details of architectural beauty which cannot be mentioned. Elaborate mansions there are, and cozy, nestling, tiny homes. There are vast estates and there are friendly little lots to suit all tastes.
The man of unlimited means may
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indulge his fondest fancies here, for sites are inspiring, and bewilderingly beautiful. Stucco, stone, brick, adobe, logs-—he may build of what he will, in the woods, on a hill-top, astride a cliff, in the open—wherever his cherished dreams shall bid him.
For the man of modest income, there is opportunity as great. The Peninsula is large. There is room for his charming little home. It may be on familiar terms with neighbors, or it may be removed from its kind, and afford him privacy in the extreme. Only a tour of inspection will serve to acquaint the prospective builder with the wealth of perfectly inviting sites.
Land values vary with location, of course. Be it only said they fit all purses. Building conditions are average. Labor is at ordinary union rates.
Redwood and Oregon pine are the most commonly used lumbers. All material prices are substantially the same as those prevailing in metropolitan centers.
Many beautiful homes in Monterey have been made of adobes a hundred years old or more. They have tremendously thick walls, and may be beautifully restored. One residence section is restricted now to homes of Spanish type. Here, many new adobe homes are to be erected. The adobe blocks are made right on the spot, as also are clay tile for roofs.
Investigate the Monterey Communities. Here, where many famous people have lived in the past—and where many of them live today, “is the pleasantest place in the world for a residence.”
Flowers of the Peninsula
FLOWER fanciers have said that from the year’s beginning to its end, nowhere in the world is the heart of the flower-lover carried along in such continuous joy and delight as on the Monterey Peninsula.
Each season clothes hills, fields, and roadsides in seemingly ever more ecstatic growth of beauty than the last. Each year, according to slight variations or modulations of breezes and temperature, there is a peculiar
group of visitants that has been dor׳ mant the preceding season. It seems no year can accommodate them all. So erstwhile forgotten flowers of the fields or woods suddenly appear, and we have a lupin year, or a baby-blue-eyes year.
Again, collinseas are in profusion, which in turn give way to cream cups, whispering bells, or godetias. Conditions ideally favorable to each variety come with regularity, and the
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Peninsula is sweetly peopled with a host of smiling flowers.
This year, forget-me-nots and so-catto gordo of the stock man were everywhere. Next year perhaps will be a riotous year for wild hollyhocks. There are some friends, however, which appear year in and year out—-confirmed devotees of the Peninsula. Shooting stars, fairy lanterns, blueeyed grass, misty blue catnip, purple milkweed—for instance.
Companions to these wild flowers are ferns of many varieties which lift their fronds from southern slopes. Lady ferns there are, scented ferns, sword ferns, dainty maiden hairs, and many others. In damp canyons, one finds handsome woodwardias with great fronds six to even ten feet high.
Flowering trees and shrubs are rampant on the Peninsula. Elders, choke cherries, wild lilacs, buckeyes, horse-chestnuts, the distinctive ma-drona and the holly cherry are here. Wild currants, the rare Fremontia, buckthorn, snow berries, and a host of others are here.
Then where the land slopes to the sea, flowers run riot in sheets of won
derful color. Whole fields are ablaze with California poppies, which bloom the year round in bright happy colors. Hanging gardens of the rocks periodically break into bloom with all the hues of a brilliant rainbow. Nestling against rugged ledges, and pushing their long, sensitive roots into helpful crevices, there are thick blankets of sedums, buckwheat, sea cinerarias, and beach primroses. Of ravishing beauty, they transform the rocks they reach, and introduce sheer glory into jagged cliffs.
One might think where there are such numberless wild flowers, there would be little need for gardens. But Peninsula families love flowers, and gardens are numerous, and carefully tended. Outside of strictly tropical plants, everything can be grown on the Peninsula.
Travelled people who are raising flowers say that probably nowhere else in all the world is there a spot more favorable to the year ’round growing of flowers. To see Peninsula flowers in their gay gamut of color and form, is to adore them. Peninsula people live always with flowers!
The Peninsula s Bulb Industry
CALIFORNIA has long been famous for its gold. It therefore surprises most people to learn that the horticultural production of this state is greater than gold production in dollars and cents. But it is true, says the California Development Association. And the Monterey Peninsula played its part in establishing this horticultural importance.
Here one finds conditions ideal for the growing of bulbs; bulbs so excellent that markets await them eagerly. The demand for flowering bulbs has grown phenomenally in recent years. This increased demand added to the certainty that in another year or two
the importation of all bulbs from foreign countries will be terminated by action of Congress, predicts a most interesting future for Monterey Peninsula bulbs. A few years ago practically all the bulbs used in this country were imported from Holland. Now California not only supplies practically all the bulbs used in this country, but is invading the foreign markets as well—even shipping to Holland herself.
A large share of this bulb production Nature has allocated to the Monterey Peninsula. Almost overnight, as it were, bulb production has become important on the Peninsula.
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Acres of gladioli—at top. A hillside of daisies. Fairy lanterns in a bowl —one of the Peninsula’s most prof use wild flowers. A gladiolus stalk, and at the bottom a dahlia bed.
The soil is just right, being mellow and just sandy enough to prevent packing and baking. The climate is congenial and offers unsurpassed advantages of pollenation and the growth of new varieties.
The bulb industry on the Peninsula took its start in Pacific Grove, which has long been famous for her wealth of flowers. The beginning was made with the dahlia, a native of old Mex
ico. In 1872 this “King of Blossoms” was brought to the attention of the public and named after the Swedish botanist, Dr. Dahl. From a small beginning in Pacific Grove, dahlia culture has grown into an industry of prime importance on the Peninsula.
Again thanks to our remarkable, equable climate they bloom continuously from June to November. During these months the dahlia gardens
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of the Monterey Peninsula are the meccaof thousands of tourists. Colors, hues, and shades run riot. There are dahlias like sunsets, and like flame, dahlias shading from amber to gold, dahlias of Mandarin yellow, copper, vermeil and bronze, dahlias holding the burnished beauty of autumn leaves, the gorgeous livery of bright summer, and the ineffable hues of spring, dahlias as tiny as buttons and as broad as generous dinner plates. Here all colors and kinds are on display bobbing their great heads frankly in the lavish sun.
The months of November and December find the tubers ready for harvest. The clumps are separated and stored awaiting the packing season. Shipments for the south, the Hawaiian Islands and the Orient begin in January, for the Pacific Coast section in February and March, while easterners are ready to plant about April or May.
That the Monterey Peninsula is the natural home of the dahlia is proven by the fact that dahlias from this locality have won prizes all over the world. One of the local dahlia growers won the Gold Medal, the highest possible award, for the best general display at the Panama Pacific Exposition in San Francisco, in 1915. Monterey Peninsula dahlias won
thirteen prizes in 1922 when displayed at the flower exposition in Tarrytown, New York. The growers of this section have originated more than five hundred varieties of this gorgeous flower.
While the dahlia industry on the Monterey Peninsula has seen persistent growth through about a decade and a half, the gladiolus bulb industry has grown startlingly fast. Here again the climatic conditions and the mellow soil with its modicum of sand have lent gladiolus growers great advantages. In fact, the Monterey Peninsula is the natural home of the gladiolus as it is of the dahlia; and expert growers declare that bulbs grown here produce finer flowers than those grown elsewhere in this country or abroad. There are a number of gladiolus growers on the Monterey Peninsula who have produced new varieties of widely acknowledged merit. The use of the gladiolus as a cut flower has scarcely begun. The gladiolus may be shipped long distances without losing its freshness and beauty. It is easy of culture, can be grown upon inexpensive land, and its market is expanding rapidly. Other bulbs that are increasing in popularity on the Monterey Peninsula are the crocus, hyacinth, freesia and narcissus.
Poultry on the Peninsula
THERE are particular portions of the Peninsula which are peculiarly adapted for poultry raising. Persons seeking an ideal locality for a home, and a method of making a living on the spot, may well consider the poultry business.
The Peninsula climate is the most equable in California, if not in the world. Here there are no extremes of heat and cold. Nor are there strong winds. Equable climate is most de
sirable for poultry raising. While hens can stand cold, egg records are never their best where hens get chilled.
There is no soil in the state the peer of certain Peninsula soil for chicken farming. The long stretch of sandy loam bordering Monterey Bay, extending from Monterey to Marina, is ideal. Here are approximately ten thousand acres which may be readily watered. Water near the bay may be
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reached at from 20 to 60 feet. Back in the hills, the maximum depth thus far has been 200 feet. Gentle trade winds in summer pump sufficient water to grow green feed for the ordinary chicken ranch.
The land mentioned is moderately priced. It may be had for prices averaging a few hundred dollars per acre. The cheaper land is as ideally suited for poultry as the more expensive. Proximity to valuable property and city lots is the principal factor of difference.
There is ready market for poultry and eggs on the Peninsula. So far, the local demand has exceeded local supply. At the same time, outside markets have shown a marked disposition to buy Peninsula eggs. They keep better than eggs produced in other districts.
A few facts concerning one of the largest and most prosperous poultrymen on the Peninsula are to the point. He started four years ago on a small scale. Today he has seven acres and 7,000 laying hens. He has his own breeding stock (white leghorns) and
raises 10,000 to 75,000 chickens a year.
He produces between 3,500 and 4,000 eggs per day, all of which are sold locally. A contract to deliver 5,000 friers in a short season to local markets, is not unusual. Baby chicks are shipped by him to the middle west, to the Canadian line, and south to the Mexican border.
He feeds about 280 chickens per day per dollar of cost. All supplies such as wheat, corn, barley and split peas he buys in the county. Green feed, he raises himself.
It has been said as the result of an intelligent survey, that one should not attempt to make a living from the poultry business, with less than 1,000 pullets. One acre can accommodate this many chickens, but two acres makes possible the growing of green feed, and a consequently lower overhead.
Monterey Peninsula Communities will be pleased to answer specific queries of persons interested in considering poultry raising here. Turkeys, ducks, geese and pigeons may also profitably be raised here.
The Peninsula s Fishing Industry
ONE of the greatest industries on the Pacific Coast is located at Monterey, where an army of some twelve hundred fishermen ply their trade through all seasons of the year. These fishermen market millions of fish annually, bringing to the Monterey Peninsula an immense income every month.
The fishing industry of Monterey Bay has grown with great strides of late years. Three decades ago it was more or less a precarious business. Skiffs and small sail boats, most of these home built, gaily painted, and carrying lateen sails, were used. Today the boats are as gaily painted as
in the old days with hues that give to Monterey’s water-front a colorful touch of the Mediterranean. But the lateen sail has given way to the modern and more serviceable gasoline motor. Staunch, sea-going vessels are these motor fishing boats, and fully a thousand are used in the fishing industry in the summer months. Thirty years ago the fishermen were mainly Chinese. Then came the Japanese, then the Portuguese. These, in turn, were supplanted by Sicilians and Italians, who make up the bulk of the fishing population of Monterey today.
Only a little more than two decades ago the first fish cannery was built at
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Monterey to can sardines. Today there are nine canneries running at full capacity. About seventy per cent of all sardines packed on the Pacific Coast are packed at Monterey. Over 46,340,000 pounds of sardines were canned in 1922, the total value of the canned product being estimated at $2,600,000. Fresh fish sold by fishermen in 1922 amounted to 5,687׳ 281 pounds, for which fishermen were paid more than $170,000.
Salmon are taken from the Mon׳ terey Bay in immense quantities and shipped to all parts of the country. In addition to salmon there are some 125 other varieties of edible fish in these waters that are used in local markets and shipped abroad. There is a greater tonnage of fish shipped annually from Monterey Bay than from any other section of the Cali׳ fornia Coast.
Experts in this industry predict that it will continue to grow at Mon׳ terey. They base their prediction on the following points: There is no other place on the California Coast which has in its waters such quanti׳ ties of the most desirable fishes as Monterey Bay; the consumption of fish is constantly on the increase; and Monterey has the most fishing days in the year of any place on the coast, due to calm weather and safe anchor׳ age in Monterey’s protected harbor.
L	M	E	N T
Another growing branch of the commercial fishing of the Monterey Peninsula is that concerning itself with the abalone, the market for which is increasing every year. The abalone is one of the most character׳ istic molluscs of the Pacific Coast. They are abundant here, but are un׳ known on the Atlantic Coast. One of the popular sports of the Peninsula is abalone gathering. At low tide they may be taken a few yards from the rocky shore; but for commercial purposes, abalones are gathered by deep׳sea divers.
As food the abalone is the best of the marine molluscs. Its food value is very high, and it is the cleanest of all sea foods. To prepare the abalone for the table it first must be trimmed of its outside flesh. It is then sliced into steaks. These steaks are beaten until tender, when they are fried in butter or olive oil. Properly prepared and cooked the abalone steak is a most delectable food. It is equally delic׳ ious when served as chowder or minced. It is truly an epicurean dish, ranking with terrapin in Maryland, bluefish in Boston, and the papabote of New Orleans.
The canning of abalone is one of the growing industries of the Monterey Peninsula. The molluscs are also dried and shipped to China.
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Peninsula Motor Roads
IT was the conquering Roman’s first care to see that all roads led to Rome, the Eternal City. It has been the aim of the people of the Monterey Peninsula to put their historic and scenic highways into the best possible condition for their own pleasure and profit as well as for the traveler and the motor tourist. They have worked to this end with the belief that trans׳ portation is civilization, that a good road is only another name for progress; and the result is that the Monterey Peninsula has become a wonderland for the motorist.
Here is a system of scenic boule׳ vards unexcelled by any country’s in the world. Paved roads and an equable climate permit the use of automobiles in all seasons.
Our Peninsula is on the historic El Camino Real—the King’s Highway— leading from San Diego to San Fran׳ cisco. It was over this old road the padres and the conquistadores toiled in the days of early missions and the Spanish Conquest.
This King’s Highway is now a state road between Los Angeles and San Francisco and over it travel every month of the year thousands of motor׳ ists from all parts of the country. It is an unequaled motor highway.
The Peninsula is centrally located, 125 miles southerly from San Fran׳ cisco, on a motor trip through the famous Santa Clara Valley. From Los Angeles the trip by automobile is 372 miles, a large part of which is along the coast.
There are now two modern boule׳ vards linking the Monterey Peninsula with the state highway. One con׳ nects with the State road at Salinas, twenty miles from Monterey. The other entrance to the Peninsula is over the road from Monterey to Castro׳ ville or Del Monte Junction. This
highway parallels Monterey Bay.
The boulevards linking Monterey with Del Monte, Seaside, Pacific Grove, Asilomar, Carmel׳by׳the׳Sea, Pebble Beach and the Carmel High׳ lands are unexcelled for year round motoring. Here is a system of mag׳ nificent highways unsurpassed in all the world.
One of the most famous boulevards in this system is the Seventeen׳Mile׳ Drive, encircling a portion of the Monterey Peninsula. Starting from Del Monte, this drive passes through Old Monterey, with its historic mem׳ ories and romantic associations of the days of the padres and the early days of the State; through Pacific Grove, city of beautiful homes and flowers that bloom the year around; through Asilomar, Y. W. C. A. retreat, where many of the largest conventions on the coast are held; then into spicy pine forests whose foliage catches and holds the sunlight like so much spray; along sand beaches sparkling like silver dust; unwinding among dove׳gray sand dunes; through Druid groves of cy׳ presses, old, haggard, twisted—the only trees of their kind in the world, and whose origin is lost in the mists of tradition; through Pebble Beach, one of the most beautiful residential sections of the Peninsula; skirting the famous Pebble Beach Golf course bordering the ocean; and thence twisting through forests of pines and oaks back to Del Monte. The trip is made easily in an hour and a half.
Then there is the new Fifty Mile Drive, which opens what is called the most magnificent scenery in this state of surpassing scenic wonders. Begin׳ ning at Del Monte, the motorist will drive through Monterey, Pacific Grove, Asilomar, the Seventeen׳Mile׳ Drive and Carmel, to Carmel High׳ lands, thence returning to motor up
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the Carmel Valley, then over the Laurellas grade to the Monterey-Salinas highway, and back to Monterey. This is a trip of over a thousand scenic wonders. You will roll smoothly through vales in which Pan and his Dryads might have danced. You will pass over meadows blown with poppies that seem to have imprisoned the living sunlight. You will glide along on a perfectly paved modern boulevard, following the granite-fanged coast-line, and look down upon a summer-sea that to all practical purposes is as good as undiscovered. You will ascend a marvelously rich valley where you will hear the voice of waters dashing joyously
on their way to the sea. You will climb mountains whose summits stand out against a flawless turquoise sky and look down into canyons that catch and hold the light and shadows of a primeval world, where waterfalls kick their silver heels in the sunlight. Here is old California, untouched as yet by interlopers, still dreaming in its virgin beauty.
This marvelous scenic drive is over the best and safest of roads, kept in the best of condition. This trip can be made in four hours, but the motorist who cares for color, beauty, and majestic scenery will not care to make this girdling trip of the whole Peninsula in less than five or six hours.
Communities of the Peninsula
THE country which lies back of the Peninsula Communities is rich, and a distinct agricultural asset to this section. Marina, Carmel Valley, Corral de Tierra—these are noted for cattle raising, dairying, peas, apples, pears, apricots, strawberries, melons, and cereals. They furnish the Peninsula with fresh foods and vegetables the year round.
Bulb farming is becoming important over the Peninsula. The fishing industry of Monterey is mentioned elsewhere, as are schools and building conditions. Nearly all the usual denominations are represented by churches on the Peninsula, there being in all, some 20 churches. There are three Episcopal, three Methodist, and two Christian Science churches. There is a Presbyterian, a Catholic, a Baptist, a Christian, a Theosophical, a Pentecostal, and a Congregational church, a Japanese Mission, the Salvation Army, and El Bethel Mission. There are Carnegie Libraries in Monterey, Carmel, and Pacific Grove.
The Peninsula has an ideal water supply. Head streams of clear, pure
water from the mountains are diverted into the supply for the Peninsula communities. No better water is to be had anywhere.
Although there are many palatial homes on the Peninsula—and although the Peninsula is the favorite recreation ground of many people of means, still there is no place in America where people may more happily and healthily live on very moderate incomes. The majority of Peninsula homes are small—but they are comfortable. Most of them are cozy, unpretentious, homey—and moderate in cost and upkeep. Living is decidedly satisfying here, at a very low cost.
For information concerning hotels or camping accommodations, Monterey Peninsula Communities may be communicated with.
--MONTEREY----
This city that has known allegiance to three governments is the cradle of California’s history. It possesses the rare quality of charm. Mystery and romance still whisper up from the seven seas and the Orient on the cool winds that blow in from the blue
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Pacific. And something of the splen׳ did recklessness, courtesy, and hospi׳ tality of the old Spanish days still survives.
It is the city of “first things.” The first landing place of the Spanish ex׳ plorers. First capitol of California. Here the first American flag was raised over California soil. Here the first newspaper in the state was printed. Here was the first theater in the state, the first Constitutional Assembly, the first brick house, the first house of milled lumber, and the first and only United States consul to California.
That was “Old Monterey” as the city is affectionately known. The new Monterey preserves the color, charm, and atmosphere of the old. Monterey is the chief trading and commercial center of the Peninsula and surrounding back country. Here there is a wide variety of stores and shops, two large banks, and an after׳ noon newspaper.
The population of Monterey is something over 6,000, part of which is a colorful fishing colony. Gas and electricity serve the entire city. Monterey’s advantages as a home center are becoming known, and there is much building on the expansive hillsides overlooking the city and the bay.
The bay is one of the most beauti׳ ful bodies of water in the world, a landlocked harbor large enough to accommodate the combined navies of all nations.
As a seaport Monterey has vast possibilities, and men of acumen and vision predict a day when Monterey will be one of the principal ports of the West Coast.
The Presidio of the United States Government is one of the city’s assets. On the pueblo grounds of Monterey is the largest military training site in America. Every summer the citizens’ training camp at Del Monte brings
thousands of men to the Peninsula.
Monterey has an active Chamber of Commerce, Improvement Club, and Woman’s Civic Club. It has an extensive system of paved streets.
The Hotel Del Monte, its extensive grounds and golf course are on the outskirts of Monterey.
--PACIFIC GROVE----
On the tip of the Peninsula is Pacific Grove, a beautiful city of homes and home׳loving people. Here is a community admitted to have the largest percentage of American׳born citizens in California. Pacific Grove has more churches than any city of its size in America, and with its popu׳ lation of 3,000 is said to be the champion of all cities in percentage of registered voters who vote. Pacific Grove people take an intense interest in the judicious administration of their affairs, and their loyalty to— and love of—home, is traditional.
“The Dahlia City” is a veritable flower׳garden, and is often also called “The Winter Paradise.” At Pacific Grove are world׳famous marine gar׳ dens, and glass׳bottom boats which carry all through the year, visitors who marvel at the under ׳ water beauty.
Pacific Grove has an ideal bathing beach, tourist camping grounds, and many attractions for the vacationist as well as the home׳builder.
The city is served by excellent stocks of merchandise and the usual banking and commercial accommoda׳ tions. The bulb industry, which is now so important to the Peninsula, got its start in Pacific Grove.
The Hopkins Marine Biological Laboratory is at Pacific Grove, and has at its doors, greater varieties of marine life than has the International Marine Biological Laboratory on the Bay of Naples. Scientists and stu׳ dents from all over the world, come here to take advantage of this remark׳ ably rich Bay.
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A marine museum is another interesting feature of Pacific Grove. Fishing at Pacific Grove is well-paying and excellent sport.
Although the winter is the most delightful season at Pacific Grove, as it is all over the Peninsula, there is a great influx to the Dahlia City in the summer, from California’s sunny valleys.
Most visitors to Pacific Grove are impressed by the very reasonable prices of home sites overlooking the glorious bay. Realty values are decidedly interesting here, as they are all over the Peninsula. Ideal home sites with incomparable marine views dot the city.
---CARMEL-B Y-THE-SEA---
On the south side of the Monterey Peninsula, over a great tree-mantled hill, is Carmel - by ׳ the - Sea—internationally known as an artists’ colony. Here are artists, scientists, poets, authors, college professors, theater folk and a great many retired business people who make play out of work.
Carmel is different in the extreme from the average community. There are no local industries. There are no railroad stations and no railroad. You reach Carmel over a paved highway that crosses hills and woods; a highway from which superb views are to be had.
Rather than stores, Carmel has for the most part quaint shops and bazars that provide the necessities of life—-and the luxuries. There is no business section in the country like Carmel’s.
Carmel has a splendid beach that is called the most beautiful on the Pacific. The town also boasts the famous annex branch of the Carnegie Desert Laboratory, where some of the most important and significant of modern scientific investigations and experiments are being carried on.
Carmel is the home of the Forest Theater, one of the first outdoor theaters in America, and known the
world over for the excellence of its productions.
The resident population of the town is about 1,400, although thousands of visitors swell this figure the year around, for here is not alone a wondrous place to dwell permanently, but a wondrous place to spend vacations—to rest—relax—and live naturally. Carmel-by-the-Sea is a community of cozy bungalows among pines and live oaks that people the hills generously. There are three private schools in Carmel, as well as the public school.
--PEBBLE BEACH----
Pebble Beach is credited with being the most beautiful residential section developing in California, where beautiful residential sections are everywhere. It is on the Seventeen Mile Drive in the i8,ooo׳acre reservation known as Del Monte forest. Far-famed Del Monte Lodge and the renowned Pebble Beach Golf Course are here. Building restrictions have kept all but the most pleasing of homes out of Pebble Beach—and here residences rest blissfully on the forest slopes that drop down to the shores of Carmel Bay.
--HOTEL DEL MONTE----•
Hotel Del Monte, close to the hearts of travelled people all over the world, is in its vast floral park and forest—the largest pleasure resort of the kind in the world. The two championship golf courses, the polo fields, the incomparable tennis courts, the trap shooting, the dances, the fetes and gala affairs that have long made Del Monte famous, are not to be outdone anywhere. Hotel Del Monte has earned its name, and needs no introduction to the sophisticated seeker after luxurious pleasure and satisfying, gratifying relaxation.
—seaside—
Seaside is a neighboring community to Monterey, where the Peninsula’s industrial development of
[45]the future may be expected to take place. It is already noted as a poultry center, and seems destined by soil and climate to be eventually without a peer in the State, as a center for this essential kind of farming. Bulbs also thrive unusually well at Seaside.
—asilomar—
Asilomar is a conference and vaca-tion camp of fifty-seven acres owned and operated by the National Young Women’s Christian Association. It is open all the year to vacation guests and for conference engagements and is the scene of many of the most important conventions on the Pacific Coast.
The tract lies on the ocean side of the Monterey Peninsula, adjoining Del Monte Forest and Pacific Grove. It is bordered with wonderful, glistening white sand dunes, while the grounds are wooded with live oaks and pines. Twenty-five well-equipped buildings provide accommodations for some 600 people.
Among the larger buildings are the Grace H. Dodge Memorial Chapel, Phoebe A. Hearst Social Hall, Mary A. Crocker Dining Hall, Ellen B. Scripps Class Hall, Olivia E. Stokes
Health Cottage, Guest Inn, Visitors’ Lodge, and the House of Happiness.
Asilomar is essentially a place for quiet, rest, and relaxation. As a place for healthful recreation between hours devoted to study and attending lectures during sessions, Asilomar is “rich in things to do.” Tennis, basketball, baseball, surf bathing, motoring, tramping, and beach-fire picnics are all popular.
---SALINAS---
County seat, nineteen miles from Monterey, in the Salinas Valley which is called “The Valley of the Nile.” Extremely rich soil produces alfalfa, sugar beets, potatoes, and fruits in important quantities. Largest beet sugar factory in the world is just outside Salinas. Salinas Valley is the largest of the inter-mountain valleys of the coast regions. The town itself is a bustling community of agricultural and commercial interests. Paved streets, modern stores, and a new half-million-dollar high school mark Salinas for the thriving little home city it is. The rich delta soil back of Salinas contributes much to markets of the State and nation, as well as to the Peninsula.
The Peninsula s Equable Climate
No spot on earth has been so peculiarly fortunate in natural climatic advantages as the Monterey Peninsula. The typical midwinter temperature at Mentone, France is 40°, at Naples, Italy, 46°, at Algiers, 520. The Peninsula’s typical winter average temperature is 530. Midsummer at Mentone, Naples, and Algiers, respectively—730, 76°, 750. On the Peninsula, midsummer averages 61 °. The renowned resorts of the world are not so equable and so delightful withal, as the Peninsula.
The Peninsula averages 293 days of sunshine a year. There is noticeably
lacking—enervating humidity. The tables here shown are evidence of the invigorating, refreshing, kindly air. The mean average annual temperature is 56.6°. Here there is no joker in the climate. The winter season is not foggy and excessively damp—as are winters at many resorts. You can enjoy ALL the year here. A few days spent on the Peninsula will convince you.
The opposite tables give you temperature readings three times a day for a year, with morning, noon, and evening averages each month. Such data cannot acquaint you with our climate, but it offers basis of comparison.
[46]
FULFILMENTע ה	SEPT., 1922 7	12	6 a.m. m. p.m.	OCT., 1922 7	12	6 a.m. m. p.m.	NOV., 1922 7	12	6 a.m. m. p.m.	DEC., 1922 7	12	6 a.m. m. p.m.	JAN., 1923 7	12	6 a.m. m. p.m.	FEB., 1923 7	12	6 a.m. m. p.m.
1	52	60	59	56	68	64	52	64	57	38	60	56	55	62	52	44	54 47
2	56	67 61	60	70	62	54	62	56	48	68	58	41	64	52	32	61	52
3	49	73	62	64	72	66	39	64	54	50	65	55	51	66	55	40	62	52
4	47	70 60	54	72	64	44	64	50	42	62	50	56	64	57	36 63 55
5	49	68	58	54	68	62	39	66	55	50	62	60	50	67	56	39. 65 56
6	50	62	63	56	68	65	50	66	65	59	55	52	49	60	54	44 67 60
7	54	62	61	58	72	66	60	70	60	49	56	53	44	64	53	40 66 56
8	48 60 58	60	74	65	56	56	58	44	61	49	41	67	58	52	58	51
9	54 62 63	50	74	66	54	60	57	46	54	56	41	70	60	36 57 52
10	54	59	61	57	74	66	54	64	56	62	65	62	55	65	57	40 53 50
U	58	62	58	58	72	64	46	67	57	60	64	61	41	62	56	48 52 51
12	56	64	52	58	68	62	42	66	56	59	61	61	37	62 54	48	55	52
13	45	63	56	58	67	64	41	67	57	58	70	61	37	61	53	44 58 52
14	45	66	57	58	66	62	42	70	54	56	58	52	42	62	57	36	62	56
15	52	63	55	60	63	63	42	66	54	52	58	54	41	64	57	40 64 61
16	52	62	54	60	65	62	42	63	58	45	58	55	44	62	60	44	60	55
17	49	57	53	58	60	60	54	65	57	58	62	59	60	63	55	42 72 68
18	55	61	58	58	61	60	47	64	58	48	66	62	48	62	60	45	76	72
19	54	68	58	55	67	60	57	63	57	46	61	57	52	58	58	56	75	62
20	48	69	63	50	70	61	46	64	56	42	70	55	47	60	54	54	56	56
21	48	67	57	52	84	65	47	68	54	45	70	58	50	50	52	53	56	56
22	48 60 60	52	86	70	42	73	56	42	68	53	51	58	57	54 56 56
23	48	68	60	52	76	63	44	74	55	44	70	55	50	60	54	54 62 57
24	50 58 58	50	68	59	42	68	55	46	68	61	46	60	53	55	58	54
25	46 70 60	52	65	59	40	75	58	52	67	53	44	60	52	52	63	62
26	48	74	65	54	66	66	44	75	56	40	66	52	42	60	54	43	64	56
27	52	76	67	56	64	58	44	65	57	45	66	58	40	61	54	50 76 54
28	49	80	63	57	66	60	53	56	52	58	64	56	51	60	50	46	66	54
29	49	67	56	58	70	61	39	60	52	41	57	55	45	55	44	
30	54	58	56	41	66	53	42	55	55	54	63	56	36	50	47	
31		54	63	60		57	62	58	32	54	44	
Ave.	50	65	50	55	61	60	46	65	54	46	63	56	46	60	54	46 62 55
	MAR., 1923	APRIL, 1923	MAY, 1923	JUNE, 1923	JULY, 1923	AUG., 1923
1	44	66	58	54	66	61	51	66	60	57	62	60	58	69	68	58 70 63
2	56	54	53	56	64	60	46	62	60	56	64	61	58	72	68	60 70 66
3	54	64	58	46	66	61	52	64	66	55	63	59	59	72	69	60 72 69
4	38	64	56	54	58	64	55	66	63	56	63	61	60 68 66	61	70	68
5	38	64	56	60 66 60	52	66	60	56	68	62	60	72	67	60	72	66
6	48	62	56	58	67	63	52	63	66	58	65	61	59	72	65	60	70	65
7	51	60	58	54	68	64	52	66	64	58	68	64	61	70	67	59	64	63
8	51	62	57	46	64	63	52	70	76	58	66	62	60	69	66	57	68 69
9	52	55	55	49	64	60	56	72	64	58	68	63	54	72	66	61 66 66
10	48	64	58	59	64	58	56	70	60	58 67	63	54	72	69	60	65	68
H	48	64	59	56	65	59	58	67	59	55	66	63	55	72	67	56 68 67
12	42	64	57	59	66	63	53	70	62	50	66	62	60	70	68	59	72	66
13	48	67	57	48	63	62	56	68	62	49	65	59	60	70	71	60	68	64
14	52	66	59	52	68	67	50	66	60	52	69	62	56	73	70	60 68 66
15	40	72	61	52	68	66	50	67	60	56	66	64	61	68	72	59	69	71
16	46	64	63	56	66	64	54	64	60	56	62	64	57	69	72	60	69	70
17	50	64	61	54	64	56	54	62	59	52	68	66	56	76	72	57	69	77
18	46	80	72	52	65	59	55	63	60	58	70	66	60	74	69	62	78	73
19	48	72	64	52	66	60	58	68	62	69	60	60	58	76	71	59	76	73
20	54	60	56	51	66	60	56	59	58	57	63	63	58 74 68	60	78	68
21	42	68	56	53	63	57	56	64	57	59	70	66	62	72	69	62	82	76
22	43	64	61	46	66	58	53	68	67	56	70	68	60	72	68	60	76	72
23	52	66	57	52	64	56	56	64	59	61	69	68	60	72	69	62	73	73
24	50	61	57	45	58	59	54	64	59	54	70	67	62	71	68	60	72	66
25	48	66	66	50	66	60	50	68	63	58	62	67	57	72	67	60	74	72
26	50	82	75	54	66	60	50	65	60	56	70	62	59	66	66	60	78	71
27	47	83	76	56	62	60	54	66	59	58	72	66	56	71	72	62	74	68
28	47	70 66	56	66	60	52	67	62	56	71	56	58	69	67	68	78	72
29	50	66	59	55	62	58	60 66 62	59	72	62	58	69	68	68 78 71
30	50	66	60	46	64	60	56	66	59	58	68	63	62	69	66	66	74	67
31	55	60	61		54	62	60		60	68	70	62	67	63
Ave.	48	66	60	52	65	61	53	66	61	57	67	63	59	71	68	61	72	69In Case You Wish Direction to Some Certain Subject
Page Romantic Monterey of Old .....	5
Historic Treatment .	......	io
The Peninsula Today, described	....	14
Life on the Peninsula ......	20
Historic Buildings and Land Marlas ....	22
Golf and Other Sports .	....	‘	25
Literature on the Peninsula .....	28
Drama on the Peninsula	3°
Art on the Peninsula ..••••	32
Peninsula Social Life ..	...	•	■	■	33
Schools of the Peninsula ..-•••	34
Homes and Building Costs .	.	.	.	■	■	35
Flowers of the Peninsula ......	36
The Peninsula’s Bulb Industry •	•	•	•	•	37
Poultry on the Peninsula ....••	39
The Peninsula’s Fishing Industry ....	40
Peninsula Motor Roads ......	42
The Communities of the Peninsula	.	.	.	,	43
The Peninsula's Equable Climate ....	46
Temperature Tables	......	47
Illustrations
Page
Map of the Peninsula ......	4
Peninsula Scenes ......	7 anc^ 11
Marine Views	.......	9
Del Monte .	.	■	■	■	■	■	■	13
Peninsula Homes ......	16 and 19
Some Peninsula Schools .	.	.	.	■	■	21
Historic Buildings .......	23
Golf and Other Sports ......	26
Forest Theatre	.	■	■	■	■	■	■	3[
Peninsula Flowers .......	38