Bird’s-Eye View Michigan Boulevard, Chicago. 2׳3°
The Santa Fe Way
The “ Santa Fe Way ” to California leads through the Southwest enchanted land, a region of romantic history, scenic surprises and magical development.
You get on board at Chicago. Three days later you leave the train somewhere in sunny California. Meanwhile you have traversed several wonderful states of the West.
Riding in trains of steel, on rails of steel, you have crossed the wide and fertile plains, the red Rockies, the desert and the Sierra. If the season be winter, you have changed from snows to roses; if it be summer time, the trip from Colorado westward has all the pure coolness of a mile-high uplift, while at journey’s end are refreshing ocean and mountain breezes.
You have glimpses of swarth, sombreroed Mexicans, soft-voiced Pueblo Indians, and other types of the fast passing frontier. You may stop off and leisurely visit them in their native habitat, or be content with hurried glances from car windows.
Prehistoric ruins of vanished races eternally veil mysteries that prying eyes seek to fathom. Huge trunks of trees, transformed by Nature’s alchemy to agatized rainbows, lie prostrate under a glowing sun. There are snowy peaks and titanic gashes in earth’s crust, culminating in the Grand Canyon. There are pine forests and treeless prairies. And everywhere appear cities and towns and villages, farms and ranches, with their myriads of homes and workshops and schools and people. The remarkable growth of the Southwest will surprise you. The railroad indeed is a mighty worker of magic.
The transcontinental trip is a very comfortable one. Trains of the Santa Fe run all the way on Santa Fe rails. For hundreds of miles double tracks are provided. All routes to California must cross a desert; the crossing of the Santa Fe is at the narrow section of this arid wonderland. Four daily through trains furnish the necessities and luxuries of modern travel, including meal service under management of Fred Harvey.
Let the “ Santa Fe Way ” be your way.
3Union Station, Kansas City, Missouri.Chicago to Colorado
From Lake Michigan to the Rockies, along the “ Santa Fe Way,” is a trip of more than a thousand miles. The traveler passes through north central Illinois, a corner of Iowa and northern Missouri. Thence across Kansas, and the eastern third of Colorado. It is a country of farms and ranches; of villages, towns and cities; of hills and plains.
The Illinois, Mississippi and Missouri Rivers are the chief intervening waterways. It is a journey of two nights and a day, or two days and a night. The scenery is pastoral, for the most part, until the Front Range of the Rockies looms white on the Western horizon. Then it takes on heroic aspects.
The $40,000,000 drainage canal, which taps Lake Michigan, and which forms one link of the projected Great Lakes and Mississippi waterway, flows through the region where Marquette and Joliet and La Salle once portaged their canoes. Joliet and Streator and Galesburg are thriving Illinois cities.
At Ft. Madison, in Iowa, where the Mississippi is bridged, the backwater from the electric power dam at Keokuk is in evidence. Northern Missouri is a rolling country. Just east of Carrollton the wide valley of the Missouri is entered. Then comes Kansas City.
Kansas City formerly was famed almost entirely for its live stock industry, packing houses and grain market. These enterprises no longer dominate; it is likewise a great railway, manufacturing and distributing center, with a fine system of parks and boulevards. The new Union Station is a commanding structure. The present population, counting that portion over in Kansas, exceeds 525,000. The Kansas border lies just beyond, the entrance to that State leading by the serpentine course of the river of the same name through a wooded landscape to the open prairie.
Kansas City is not the only gateway by which the Santa Fe enters Kansas, although it is by this route that the transcontinental trains travel. St. Joseph, in Missouri, and Atchison and Leavenworth, in Kansas, are Missouri River cities, all reached by connecting
5Farm Scene, Kansas.lines of the same system, and all famous in the early history of the region.
The French fur-traders were the first to establish footing of civilization in this State. More than seventy years ago Fort Leavenworth was created to give military protection to the hazardous trade with Santa Fe, New Mexico.
The first general settlement of eastern Kansas was just prior to the Civil War. It was the scene of encounters between free-soil and pro-slavery colonists, and of historic exploits by John Brown and the guerrilla Quantrell. The very Lawrence raided by Quan-trell now is the seat of the University of Kansas and of Haskell Institute, the latter a successful school for Indians.
Topeka, with its broad avenues, is one of the prettiest capitals of the West; here are the general offices and principal shops of the Santa Fe, and several imposing State edifices. Emporia is a college town. The neighborhood of Newton and Burrton is the home of the Mennonites, a Russian sect. In pioneer days Newton was a big shipping point on the cattle drive from Texas.
At Hutchinson (noted for its salt industry and Tudoresque station hotel) one enters western Kansas, and from this point follows in general the windings of the Arkansas River.
Dodge City, of cowboy fame, and Garden City are the chief centers of this district.
Colorado first presents itself as a plateau, elevated 4,000 feet above the sea — a gently ascending plain. Holly, Lamar, Las Animas, La Junta and Rocky Ford are the centers of this part of the Arkansas Valley irrigated district, celebrated for its sugar beets and cantaloupes.
Passing Las Animas the tourist is reminded of the days when the noted scout Kit Carson made Bent’s his headquarters.
Many transcontinental travelers by this route break their journey at La Junta, Colorado, and take another Santa Fe train to Denver and back, visiting both Pueblo and Colorado Springs. The view of the Rampart Range and Pike’s Peak is very impressive.
7Indians Watching first Santa Fe Overland Train.The Old Santa Fe Trail
Before the railroads came, all commerce between the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains was carried on by caravans of pack mules and wagon teams.
The most famous of these pioneer thoroughfares was the Old Santa Fe Trail. It traversed the prairies straight away to Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico. It originally started from Franklin, Mo., in the year 1821; afterwards, from 1825 to 1827, the eastern terminus was Fort Osage and Independence; and, later, in 1848, Westport Landing, now Kansas City. The route was by way of Olathe and Burlingame to Council Grove — the Arkansas Valley being reached at Fort Zarah. The trail crept up this valley to Bent’s Fort (now Las Animas) and climbed the mountains through Raton Pass. There was a short cut from Fort Dodge to Las Vegas, along the Cimarron River.
Comanches and Pawnees made almost every mile of the passage through Kansas dangerous for the wagon trains that slowly wound across the plains. Except when heavily guarded by military escorts, they were subject to frequent attacks.
The earlier caravans of pack mules usually numbered 75 to 200 animals, and they made fifteen miles a day. After the introduction of “ prairie schooners,” drawn by mules or oxen, the jornada or day’s journey was seventeen to eighteen miles. An average caravan consisted of twenty-six wagons, each drawn by five yoke of oxen or five spans of mules. A day’s trip was seventeen miles. By 1866 as many as 3,000 traders’ wagons were employed. The largest train was composed of 800 army wagons, carrying supplies for General Custer’s Indian campaign, in 1868.
The first overland mail stage coach started from Independence for Santa Fe in 1849; and in the early ’60’s daily stages were run from both ends of the route.
The Santa Fe Railway reached the city of Santa Fe in 1880, and the well-worn trail became a thing of the past. Yet even to this day its deep ruts may be seen on the prairie sod.
9Pike's Peak, Rampart Range, Colorado.
10The Colorado Rockies
Colorado is Switzerland and the Tyrol, multiplied. Its mountain systems occupy five times the area of the Alpine chains. There are more than a hundred peaks whose altitude exceeds 13,500 feet, and forty which are more than 14,000 feet high — or a mile higher than the average height of the Alps.
This veritable land of the sky occupies the western two-thirds of Colorado. The Rampart Range fronts the plains. Back of it are other ranges and parks, dotted by lakes and threaded by streams — also two national parks and several national forests. In summer it is a great playground for those who seek to escape hot weather.
Many transcontinental travelers, by way of New Mexico and Arizona, break their journey at La Junta and take another Santa Fe train to Denver and back, visiting both Pueblo and Colorado Springs.
Pueblo is a manufacturing center and the chief city of southern Colorado, with 65,000 inhabitants. Here are iron and steel plants, and extensive smelters. A branch leads to Canon City, celebrated for its “ Skyline ” drive. In the southwest corner of the State is Mesa Verde National Park, a place of ancient cliff dwellers’ ruins.
Colorado Springs, a noted resort city of some 34,000 inhabitants, is closely neighbored by Manitou and Pike’s Peak — the latter towers to a height of I 4,106 feet. In season, the tourist may ascend to its cloudland summit by cog train or auto. Across the divide are Cripple Creek, Leadville and Glenwood. Colorado Springs has fine hotels, luxurious residences, and many-acred parks.
Denver is the commercial metropolis of the Rockies, and the capital of Colorado. The population is 292,000. When a man makes his fortune in the mountains, he is apt to go to Denver and invest much of it — the result being a most attractive city.
The short trips from Denver into the nearby high hills are of varied charm. Longer journeys may be made to Rocky Mountain National Park and into the big game region.
I IRaton Pass, New Mexico.In New Mexico
Soon after leaving La Junta the Spanish Peaks hover upon the horizon. At Trinidad — a center of large coal, coke, iron and wool industries — the ascent of Raton Pass is begun. The railway hotel at Trinidad is named after Cardenas, a captain under Coronado, in 1540.
The grade up Raton Pass is very steep. Three powerful engines are required to move the train at a slow pace. Finally it plunges into a half-mile tunnel of midnight blackness, at an elevation of something more than 7,500 feet, emerging in New Mexico.
New Mexico is a land of broad ranges, where herds of cattle and flocks of sheep browse upon the nutritious grasses; where fields of grain wave in harvest time, and where veins of precious metals are mined. Here are ranches and farms, with irrigated areas in the valleys. Here are modern cities and towns, strung along the railway.
Scattered by the way are quiet native villages; ancient Indian pueblos, still inhabited; and those older abandoned ruins which give to the region its air of mystery. The known history of this sunny skyland starts with Marcos de Nizza in 1539. The long period of Spanish colonization was broken by a brief return of native rule. Eventually, American ascendancy was established, and today the natives form a romantic background to an Anglo-Saxon civilization.
The landscape is oriental in aspect. It is flushed with color. The rarefied air is dry, and stimulating. The traveler is borne through forests of pine and fir, and canyons where rock walls yield grudging passages; along level stretches by the side of the Great River of the North; past picturesque desert tracts spotted with sage; and past mesas, buttes, dead volcanoes and lava beds. One feels that this place always has worn much the same aspect it wears today. Parcel of the semi-arid region, it sleeps only for thirst; slake that, and it becomes a garden as if by a magic word.
The Culebra and Cimarron ranges rise to the west, as the train whirls southward from Raton. En route are Springer, in the sheep country; Wagon Mound,
13California Limited in Apache Canyon, New Mexico.
Aa former Mexican frontier customhouse; and Watrous, at the head of Mora Canyon. Almost where plain and mountain meet, the city of Las Vegas (8,300 population) has grown into prominence. It is the second in the State. The station hotel is patterned after the old California missions.
The Glorieta range is crossed through Glorieta Pass (altitude, 7,453 feet). The upclimb takes one near Starvation Peak. One legend says that a large band of Spaniards was surrounded here by Navajos, in 1800, and starved to death.
At Ribera, on Pecos River, is the old Franciscan mission of San Miguel. Valley Ranch (open all the year) is the chief resort on the auto way to the head waters of the Pecos River. The crumbling ruins of old Pecos church are near Rowe. This church was built in 1609; adjacent are the ruins of the prehistoric Indian pueblo of Cicuye.
The downward ride is through Apache Canyon, where, in 1846, noted battles were fought between Kearny’s Army of the West and the Mexicans, and in 1862 between Federal and Confederate forces. At Lamy there is a branch line to Santa Fe, and another station hotel, El Ortiz, fashioned like a Mexican adobe.
Albuquerque, the point of junction of three lines of the Santa Fe system, has a splendid railway hotel, the Alvarado, recently enlarged and remodeled. It houses a collection of Indian and Mexican relics and products, gathered for Fred Harvey. Here, too, are assembled Indian weavers, potters, silversmiths and basket-makers. A model of an Indian pueblo is shown nearby. The ancient settlement dates back to the Spanish invasion, while the new town, with a population of 28,000, had its beginning with the advent of the Santa Fe Railway.
The San Mateo Mountains are on the north, from Cubero to Grants. The Zuni Mountains are southwest. At San Rafael and Cubero the strange rites of the Penitentes occasionally are performed. From Thoreau various interesting places may be reached, notably Pueblo Bonito, whose ancient ruins cover seven acres, one building containing a thousand rooms.
15State Art Museum. Santa Fe, New Mexico.Santa Fe and Roundabout
In 1606 the Spaniards founded this city under the name La Ciudad Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco (the True City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis) which has been reduced to lower terms in the lapse of time. It occupies a plain rimmed by mountains whose peaks tower to heights of 1 0,000 to 1 3,000 feet.
Nineteen American and seventy-six Mexican and Spanish rulers have successively occupied the governor’s palace on the plaza. Here the territorial governors received their guests in the same room that served visitors in the time of the first viceroy, and here it was that General Lew Wallace finished “ Ben Hur.” The edifice has survived all those strange turns by which a Spanish province has become a State of the Union; its story stretches back into antiquity.
Nearly a mile distant, stands the old Chapel Rosario, now neighbored by the Ramona school for Apache children. In 1692 Diego de Vargas, marching up from the south, stood upon that hill with his little army of 200 men. There he knelt and vowed to build upon the spot a chapel for Our Lady of the Rosary, if she would fight upon his side. The town was carried by assault, and the chapel was built.
There are other places of antiquarian interest, where are stored Spanish archives covering more than two centuries, and numerous paintings and carvings of great age. The Church of Our Lady of Light, the Cathedral of San Francisco, and finally the Church of San Miguel and the Old House, are isolated from everything that is in touch with our century by their location in the heart of an old Mexican village. This, at last, is the real Santa Fe of the traveler’s anticipation ; a straggling aggregation of low adobe huts, divided by narrow winding lanes, where burros loaded with firewood or garden truck pass to and fro; and groups of chattering dark-faced women are seen everywhere. The hurrying activities and transitions of the outer world, from which it is separated by only a narrow arroyo, count for nothing. The Old House, where Coronado is said to have lodged in 1540, and the Church of San Miguel, which was sacked in 1680,
17Rito de Los Frijoles, New Mexico.
18are not distinguishable from their surroundings by any air of superior age. All is old.
A few miles northeast of the city is the native village of Chimayo, noted for its blanket weaving; and Sanctuario, a shrine where miracles of healing are said to occur in a primitive chapel built over the “ holy earth.”
Santa Fe is the center of archaeological research in America. Work is being carried on among the prehistoric cliff-dwellings at Pajarito Park, Puye, and Rito de Los Frijoles, within half a day’s journey of New Mexico’s capital. This “ home of the ancients ” embraces the plateau region between the Rio Grande and the Jemez Mountains, extending fifty miles north and south. The most southerly ruins are twenty miles from Santa Fe, scattered among a hundred cliffs. In Frijoles Canyon, ten miles farther on, 1,500 separate ruins have been discovered. When the whole Paja-ritan region is restored, the traveler then can wander through once-buried cities older than Pompeii.
Santa Fe is interesting, too, for other reasons. The older section — quaint adobeland — has been mentioned. The newer section, built since the gringo came, has substantial modern stores, residences and public buildings. Being the capital — oldest in the United States — the social life is charming. The new museum and art gallery is a mecca for artists.
Within a few hours’ ride are several Pueblo Indian and native villages, and in the suburbs is an Indian school. The soft-syllabled Castilian tongue is spoken on every corner. Ride out along the scenic drive, towards Las Vegas, or ascend Pecos River to the rangers’ camp at Panchuela, and the scenic beauty of the surrounding mountains is so evident as to need no words of description. Bishop’s Lodge, a few miles from the city, in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo range, is a high-class local resort.
The Santa Fe Fiesta, held annually in September, is a three-day celebration to commemorate the reconquest (1692) of the Southwest from the Pueblo Indians by Don Diego de Vargas. The first day is devoted to the Indians; the second to the Spanish-Mexican life; the third to modern Santa Fe.
19Pueblo of Laguna, New Mexico.
20New Mexican Pueblos
More than a score of these many-chambered communal homes are scattered over New Mexico. Taos, Picuris, San Juan, Santa Clara, San Ildefonso, Pojoaque, Nambe and Tesuque are within twenty to ninety-five miles of Santa Fe, their population varying from twenty-five to four hundred persons each. From Domingo one may reach the pueblos of Cochiti, San Domingo and San Felipe; while Sandia, Jemez, Zia, Santa Ana, Laguna and Acoma are in the vicinity of Albuquerque. Zuni pueblo is reached from Gallup.
Few tourists know that the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico own 900,000 acres of land, and that since the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848 they have been full-fledged citizens, though not voting. Three of the most important pueblos are Isleta, Laguna and Acoma. Isleta is near the railroad; Laguna station now is located a few miles west of the Indian settlement. Acoma is reached from Laguna.
The aboriginal inhabitants of the pueblos — an intelligent, complex, industrious and independent race — are anomalous among North American natives. Many are housed today in the self-same structures in which their forebears were discovered, and in three and a half centuries of contact with Europeans their manner of life has not materially changed. The Indian tribes that roamed over mountain and plain have become wards of the government. But the Pueblo Indian has absolutely maintained the integrity of his individuality. The extent to which he has adopted the religion of his Spanish conquerors, or the teachings of his present guardians, amounts to only a slight concession from persistent conservatism.
Not many strangers have penetrated the reserve with which the inner life of this strange child of the desert is guarded. He is a true pagan, swathed in seemingly dense clouds of superstition, rich in fanciful legend, and profoundly ceremonious in religion. His gods are innumerable. Not even the ancient Greeks possessed a more populous Olympus. Gods of peace and of war, of the chase, of bountiful harvest and famine, of sun and rain and snow, elbow a thousand
21Pueblo of Zuñí, New Mexico.others for standing-room. The trail of the serpent has crossed his history, too, and he frets his pottery with an imitation of its scales, and gives the rattlesnake a prominent place among his deities. Unmistakably a pagan, yet the purity and well-being of his communities will bear comparison with those of the enlightened world. He is brave, honest and enterprising within the fixed limits of his little sphere, his wife is virtuous, his children are docile. And were the whole earth swept bare of every living thing, save for a few leagues surrounding his tribal home, his life would show little disturbance. He still would alternately labor and relax in festive games, still reverence his gods, and rear his children to a life of industry and content.
Pueblo architecture possesses nothing of the elaborate ornamentation found in so-called Aztec ruins in Mexico. The house usually is built of stone, covered with adobe cement, and is severely plain. It is commonly two or three stories in height, of terrace form, and joined to its neighbors. The prevailing entrance is by means of a ladder to the roof of the lowest story.
The most strikingly picturesque of New Mexican pueblos is the sky city of Acoma. It is built upon the summit of a table-rock with eroded precipitous sides, 350 feet above the plain, and has a church of enormous proportions. The inhabitants carried upon their backs every particle of the materials of which the village is constructed. The church alone must have cost the labor of many generations. Anciently, according to tradition, the original pueblo of Acoma stood upon the crest of the Enchanted Mesa.
Laguna was founded in 1699 by refugees from Acoma, Zuni and Cochiti, on a high rock near the San Jose River. Several great battles were fought here with the Navajos and Apaches.
Isleta is a picturesque pueblo in the Rio Grande Valley, occupied by about a thousand Indians who own flocks of sheep, raise alfalfa and tend their vineyards. The annual festival occurs here in September.
Forty miles south of Gallup station is Zuni, largest of the Indian pueblos and one of the Seven Cities of Cibola; it was stormed and captured by Coronado in 1540. The Shalako Dance occurs here in November.
23Navajo Indian and Cowboy “ Tug-of-war,” Ganado, Arizona.Along the Santa Fe in Arizona
That portion of Arizona traversed by the Santa Fe is a land of prodigious mountain terraces, extensive plateaus, profound canyons, and flat, arid plains, dotted with gardens of fruits and flowers, patched with vast tracts of pine timber, and veined with precious stones and metals. Likewise, there are desolate beds of lava, mountainous cones of volcanic cinder, uncouth vegetable growths of the desert, and bleak rock spires. Above it all white peaks gleam radiantly in almost perpetual sunlight.
It is a novel environment for present-day American life — this land of sage and mesquite, of frowning volcanic piles, shadowed canyons, lofty mesas and painted buttes. It seems fitter for some cyclopean race; for the pterodactyl and the behemoth.
The altitude is practically the same as that of the route through New Mexico, undulating between 5,000 and 7,000 feet above sea-level, until on the western border the high plateaus break rapidly down to an elevation of less than 500 feet at the Needles crossing of the Colorado River.
The known history of Arizona begins with the same Mark of Nice who discovered New Mexico, of which this State was long a part; and here, as well, he was followed by Coronado and the missionaries. This is the true home of the now peaceful Apache. Its complete acquisition by the United States dates from 1853.
After a successful reoccupation by California troops in 1862, settlers began to penetrate the northern section. Nearly twenty years later the first railroad spanned its boundaries, and then finally it became a tenable home for the Saxon.
But Arizona never will lose its peculiar atmosphere of extreme antiquity, for, in addition to those overwhelming chasms that have lain unchanged since the infancy of the world, it contains within its borders the ruins of once populous cities, whose history was not written upon any lasting scroll, and whose peoples are classed among the undecipherable antiquities of our continent
25Navajo Horseman in Canyon de Chelly, Arizona. 26The Santa Fe, in traversing western New Mexico and Arizona, climbs the Continental Divide a distance of 150 miles beyond Albuquerque, along the valleys of the Puerco and San Jose, attaining an altitude of nearly 7,000 feet. There follows a downhill slide to Winslow, beside the Puerco and Little Colorado rivers. The engine then puffs upgrade through fragrant pine forests to Flagstaff, at the base of the San Francisco Mountains, crossing Canyon Diablo, a rather startling rift in a level plateau. The town of Williams, junction for the branch line to Grand Canyon, lies at the foot of Bill Williams Mountain. Then comes a slight down grade to Ash Fork, one of the double tracks being built through Johnson’s Canyon. From Seligman, where Pacific time succeeds Mountain time, the train drops easily down a 150-mile incline to Needles, almost at sea-level.
So gradual are the ups and downs, the traveler is hardly aware of the changes in elevation.
The southern border of the Navajo reservation is north of the railway in northwestern New Mexico and northeastern Arizona, including in its major Arizona section the rather diminutive reservation of the Hop¡ Indians. The Navajos are a pastoral people, and self-supporting; they live a nomadic life. The Hopis reside in seven villages, perched high on mesas that overlook the painted desert. See more extended reference elsewhere herein.
Canyons de Chelly and del Muerto lie one hundred miles northwest of Gallup, on the way to Navajo Mountain and the Rainbow Bridge; these canyons are unique in structure and contain many prehistoric ruins.
Adamana and Holbrook are points of departure for the Petrified Forests. Holbrook also is the railroad station for Fort Apache and several interior Mormon settlements.
The Hualapai and Havasupai Indians mainly live along the railway in vicinity of Kingman. The Hava-supais have their under-earth home in Havasu Canyon, a tributary of the Grand Canyon. The Mojaves live in the neighborhood of the Needles crossing of the Colorado River, and are noted for their bead work.
27Pueblo of Wolpi, Arizona.	(Photo by A. J. Baker)The Hopis
The Hopi pueblos are seven in number: Oraibi, Shungopavi, Shipaulovi, Mishongnovi, Wolpi, Sicho-movi and Tewa. They are embraced in a locality less than thirty miles across, and are the citadels of a region which the discovering Spaniards in the sixteenth century named the Province of Tusayan. They are reached by a one day’s auto journey northward from Adamana, Holbrook, or Winslow, and by a longer route across the high hills and through pine forests from Gallup in New Mexico.
The peculiar attractions which they offer to students of primitive community and pagan ceremonies, as well as to the artist seeking strange subjects, or the casual traveler hoping to find a new sensation, draw an increasing number of visitors every year at the time of their religious festivities. This increasing interest has resulted in improving the means of access without in any degree modifying the conditions of the villages themselves or the Hopi ceremonies. The latter half of August is the time of the most spectacular ceremonies. At that season a wagon journey from the railway to the Province of Tusayan, with camp life on the road and at the pueblos, need be no hardship.
There are no regular tourist accommodations at die villages, though a few rooms or houses can be rented from the Hopis. Provisions and camp outfits must be brought in. The north and south roads and trails lie across the level Painted Desert, which, except in the Little Colorado Valley and around a few springs or wells, has scant vegetation. The soil is sandy or rocky, and in August the weather is warm. The altitude averages 6,000 feet. The nights are cool. Absence of humidity forbids that the daytime heat should be oppressive. Even if the pueblos as an objective did not exist, a voyage into that country of extinct volcanoes and strangely sculptured and tinted rock-masses would be well worth while.
Like Acoma, the Hopi pueblos are perched on the crests of lofty mesas. At the first they were well nigh inaccessible to enemies, their only approach being by way of narrow, precipitous foot trails. In
29Hopi Snake Dance, Arizona.modern times less difficult paths have been constructed, such fortress homes being no longer needful for defense. But the conservative Hopis continue to live as lived their forebears and cling to their high dwelling place. The women toil up the trails with water from the spring below, and the men returning from the fields climb a small mountain’s height daily. They are industrious, thrifty, orderly and mirthful, and are probably the best entertained people in the world. A round of ceremonies, each terminating in the pageants called “ dances,” is staged nearly every month of the year. Subsisting almost wholly by agriculture in an arid region of uncertain crops, they find abundant time between their labors for lighthearted dance and song, and for elaborate ceremonials, which are grotesque in the Kachina, or masked dances, ideally poetic in the Flute dance, and intensely dramatic in the Snake dance. Of the last two (both of which are dramatized prayers for rain at an appointed season), the former is picturesque in costume and ritual, and impressive in solemn beauty; the latter is grim and startling, reptiles — including a liberal proportion of rattlesnakes — being employed as messengers to carry petitions to the gods of the underworld, who are supposed to have power over the rain clouds.
To the onlooker it seems impossible that venomous snakes can be handled so audaciously without inflicting deadly wounds, yet it is positively known that they are in no wise deprived of their natural power to do so. The priests possess a secret antidote, to which they resort if necessary. That the dancers are sometimes bitten is pretty well established, but the observer may not have distinguished the harmless from the venomous snakes, which are intermingled, and the Hopis are reticent to subsequent inquiry.
By some these Indians are nicknamed Moki. Among themselves they always are known as Hop¡, “ good ” (or peaceful) people.
The Hopis are hospitable to all respectful visitors, and they may be visited at any time of the year except in midwinter, although the season of the religious feasts made famous by the snake dance is the time of the greatest attraction.
31White Mountain- Apache Indian.
92Other Indians in Arizona
The lands set apart for the Nava]os in Arizona, New Mexico and Utah comprise 7,800 square miles. In this compact district of the arid West are gathered 25,000 nomadic Indians. In their own tongue they call themselves Dinneh, meaning “ the people,” but by the early Spaniards they were first called Apaches de Navaju, or “ Apaches of the cultivated fields.” They own great flocks of sheep and herds of cattle. Also they weave fine blankets and work in silver. Government district agencies are maintained at Fort Defiance, Tuba, Leupp and Keam’s Canyon, Arizona, and at Shiprock, New Mexico. In summer the Navajos wander from place to place with their flocks and herds, occupying temporary brush homes. In winter they live in hogans built of logs and chinked with earth. Although civilized, they cling to old customs and ancient religious beliefs. The medicine man has a large following. Their dance ceremonies are weird in the extreme. The Fire Dance is seldom witnessed by white men; it occurs only once in seven years.
The Havasupai Indians, numbering 200, live in Havasu Canyon, deep down in the earth two-fifths of a mile. The situation is romantic, being in the Grand Canyon district. The surroundings are beautified by falls of water over precipices several hundred feet high. This bluish water all comes from springs that gush forth in surprising volume near the village. The baskets made by the Havasupai women are all woven. The men are noted horsemen and good farmers and hunters. Pedro Garces was the first white man to visit their canyon retreat. In early times the Havasupais undoubtedly were cliff dwellers.
The Western bands of the Apaches were located in the early seventies upon the White Mountain and San Carlos reservations. The White Mountain country is in east central Arizona, reached from both Holbrook and Phoenix. It contains about 2,500,000 acres. At an elevation of 3,000 to 1 1,000 feet, the climate varies from semi-tropical to sub-Alpine. Wild game is plentiful. Along the streams are campos of
33Havasu Canyon, the Home of the Havasupai.
34the various bands, each with its petty chief. Basketmaking is the principal industry among the women. The Apaches live in low houses, oval in form, made of poles, grasses and canvas.
The Wallapai is a hardy, mountain-dwelling Indian, mainly engaged in stock raising. The Santa Fe runs through a corner of his many acres, at Truxton. The name Wallapai means the people of the tall pine. In appearance they resemble the Mojaves, who regard the Havasupais as first cousins. They are of medium height, with heavy features. The women usually dress in calico gowns, over which is worn a mantle of red handkerchiefs. Basketry is their only important art.
The majority of the Mojave Indians (remnants of that once powerful tribe) are located near Parker, but there is quite a settlement at Needles, as train passengers quickly learn when entreated to buy beadwork. The Mojaves are peaceable and industrious. The men are tall and finely proportioned, with regular features, and famed for speed as runners. The women are shorter than the men and lack in comeliness. Both sexes paint the face in bright tints.
The Maricopas live on the south bank of Salt River, near Phoenix. They number less than 300, and are slowly decreasing. In appearance they differ from their neighbors, the Pimas, being taller. Modern houses are replacing the primitive style of thatched huts. They burn their dead. The Maricopas make basket trays and various forms of red pottery decorated in black.
The Pimas are found on two reservations, located on the Salt and Gila rivers, in the Salt River Valley. They are expert farmers, and the women make pottery. The Pima and Maricopa Indians are often seen in the streets of Phoenix, disposing of their wares.
The native Indian life of Arizona forms a unique attraction for tourists. If time permits, it is well worth while to stop off and get better acquainted with these First Americans, by visiting them in their homes. This necessitates, in some cases, a journey by auto to the back country, or a strenuous camping trip. Such outings are very pleasurable, in season, and within reach of the average traveler’s pocketbook.
35(Photo by A. J. Baker) Canyon de Chelly, Northern Arizona.
36Canyons de Chelly—del Muerto
Canyon de Chelly (pronounced de Shay) and Canyon del Muerto are 1 00 miles northwest of Gallup, in the heart of the Navajo country. On the way thither the traveler passes by St. Michaels, a Franciscan mission and school for Indian children — another school being conducted by the Government at Fort Defiance, to the north. Ganado, also en route, is a typical trading post. From Ganado to Chinle the road runs through a broad valley. Chinle is a Navajo trading post and mission. A few miles east is Rio de Chelly, a typical desert stream, which heads in the Chuska Mountains.
Canyon de Chelly, with its principal branches, del Muerto and Monument, is about forty miles long. The sandy bed of the little river is hemmed in by sheer walls of red sandstone, only a few hundred feet apart, that tower skywards 800 to 1,500 feet. On either side are pinnacles, obelisks, crags and towers of great height, smoothly sculptured by wind and rain. Of these, El Capitan stands supreme.
Canyon del Muerto gets its gruesome name from the massacre of Navajos by Spaniards in 1804. Almost 1,600 prehistoric cliff dwellings nestle in high crevices along the precipitous rock walls. They vary in size from a single room, set like a swallow’s nest in the face of the cliff, to ancient community houses of scores of rooms. The Antelope Ruin, for example, must have contained more than a hundred compartments. A multitude of ruins still await excavation.
There are Navajo Indians living in these canyons in the same primitive fashion that they lived a century ago, when the Spaniards first came.
Whether one goes by auto and allows only four or five days for the round trip, or takes it more leisurely, the journey long will linger in memory because of the wide desert stretches and the beauty of the pines where the road winds over high hills; because of the strange buttes along the horizon, the red sunsets, and turquoise afterglows; and the weird loneliness of the canyons, where wind and rain have worked all the strange wonders of erosion.
37Rainbow Bridge, near Arizona-Utah boundary line.
38The Rainbow Natural Bridge
Zane Grey, the novelist, calls the Rainbow Bridge a rosy-hued and glorious arch of stone.
On the northern slopes of Navajo Mountain, just beyond the Arizona-Utah line, and 200 miles northwest of Gallup, N. M., is Bridge Canyon, a tributary of the San Juan River. In this canyon is the Rainbow Natural Bridge, first seen by white men in 1909 — a triumphal arch spanning a wide gorge. The span of this arch is 279 feet, and the height is 309 feet.
It is so inaccessible that but few travelers have visited it. Of the less than one hundred who have thrilled with the mystic splendor of the “ Rainbow ” arch, the most noted was ex-President Roosevelt, who went there in 1913, on his last Western tour.
It is reached from Gallup. One motors 1 75 miles through the Navajo Reservation, by way of Chinle, to Wetherill’s trading post at Kayenta, Ariz. From Kayenta the Wetherill caravan of saddle and pack animals is carefully guided up Marsh Pass and Laguna Canyon. The trail then dips into the Segi, a gorge of cliff ruins. The next two days will be spent in following zigzag trails up and down canyon walls, crossing small snow-fed streams, and meeting stray Navajos and Piutes. The trail into and out of Piute Canyon, which is 1,500 feet deep, is so precarious as to require dismounting. The hardest part of the Jornada is ahead, for one must thread his way through twisted valleys, barren passes and over domes of smooth rock where there is not a vestige of trail.
The last four miles is along the bottom of Bridge Canyon. The walls on either side are colored like a sunset. Suddenly the guide shouts “ Nonnezoshe,” and looking up there is seen the arch of triumph, hewn in titanic plan ages ago by the master winds. It is well worth the long and difficult approach. Of its kind it is king. There are not many places left in America where the crowd has not gone. Here, at Rainbow Bridge, it will be a long time before the joy of pioneering has passed. This is a real frontier outpost.
The return trip from Rainbow Bridge can be made by a different route, through Monument Valley.
39Petrified Forest of Arizona.Petrified Forests of Arizona
In prehistoric times dense forests were growing all over that part of the earth’s surface now labeled Arizona. It befel in the course of unknown centuries that they lay prostrate, and over them swept the waters of an inland sea. Eons passed, and drifting sands buried them so deep that neither the plesiosaurus nor pterodactyl suspected their presence far beneath. Then the sea vanished, the uncouth denizens of its deeps and shores became extinct, and craters belched forth volcanic spume to spread a further mantle of oblivion.
This region for hundreds of square miles was once sunk so low the ocean overflowed it; then upheaved so high the brine could find no footing. Again a partial depression made it a vast depository of rivers that drained the higher levels, which in time was expelled by a further upheaval. During the periods of subsidence the incoming waters deposited sand and silt, which afterwards hardened to rock. But in periods of upheaval the outgoing waters gnawed the mass and labored to bear it away. So, to return to our long-buried forest, some 10,000 feet of rock was deposited over it, and subsequently eroded clean away. And when these ancient logs were uncovered, lo! the sybaritic chemistry of nature had transformed them, every one, into chalcedony, topaz, onyx, agate and amethyst.
Thousands of acres are thickly strewn with trunks and segments of trunks, and covered with chiplike fragments. There are several separated tracts, any one of which will seem to the beholder an inexhaustible store of gems, measurable by no smaller phrase than millions of tons; a profusion of splinters, limbs and logs, every fragment of which as it lies would adorn the collector’s cabinet, and, polished by the lapidary, might embellish a crown. Some of these transverse trees are over 200 feet in length and seven to ten feet in diameter, although they are most frequently broken into sections by transverse fracture.
The First, Second and Third Forests, also the Blue and North Forests, are reached from Adamana station. The Third Forest, likewise, may be reached from Holbrook.
41San Franciso Peaks, Arizona.San Francisco Peaks
Flagstaff, Arizona, is in the heart of the San Francisco uplift, 6,900 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by one of the largest yellow pine forests in the United States. Besides being a summer vacation place for Arizonans, it has lumber mills and is the site of Lowell Observatory, renowned for investigations of the planet Mars. It is couched at the foot of a noble mountain that doffs its cap of snow for only a few weeks of the year. Not far away are Sunset Mountain, the lava beds, the ice caves, and primeval Walnut Canyon. This canyon is noted for its mysterious cliff-dwellings, where once dwelt an unknown race — the crumbling stones their meager epitaph.
The San Francisco Peaks lie just north of Flagstaff. They are visible from points within a radius of 200 miles. There are three peaks, which form one mountain. A road has been built part way up Humphrey’s Peak (altitude, 12,750 feet) ; the trip to summit and back may be made in a day by road and trail, from June to October.
This is a mountain of gentlest dignity. Flowers riot in their season, and the aspens have whole hillsides to themselves. Above the ranks of the mighty pines, for the few hundred feet below the summit, the peaks stand bare — stern crags that brook no mantle except the snows.
The outlook from Humphrey’s Peak is one of the noblest of views. It commands a recognizable territory of not less than 75,000 square miles, with shadowy contours beyond the circle of definite vision. Directly north is the- farther wall of the Grand Canyon, fifty miles away, and, topping that, the Buckskin Mountains of the Kaibab Plateau. To the right is Navajo Mountain, near the Colorado state line. In the northeast is the painted desert, tinted with rainbow hues. Southeast are the White Mountains, and swinging westward, in turn, come the Mogollon Plateau, Superstition Mountains, the Bradshaws, and the Juniper Range. Nearer at hand are seen the Coconino Forest, the Little Colorado, Oak Creek Canyon and the breaks of the Verde.
43Phantom Ranch—Grand Canyon—a mile deep down.Grand Canyon National Park
The series of tremendous chasms which form the channel of the Colorado River in its course through northern Arizona reach their culmination in a chaotic gorge 21 7 miles long, nine to thirteen miles wide, and, midway, more than 6,000 feet below the level of the plateau. Standing upon the brink of that plateau, the beholder is confronted by a scene of beauty.
In reality, the Grand Canyon is a series of canyons, beginning in Utah, below Green River, and ending above Needles, California. In general, it is a wide trough, the bottom of which is a narrow gorge carrying the muddy waters of the river. How the canyon was made, and how long it was in the making, is anybody’s guess. Geologists allow eons of time and claim that the principal agent was erosion.
The canyon was discovered in 1540 by early Spanish conquistadors. Maj. J. W. Powell was the first American to thoroughly explore it. He voyaged the Colorado River from source to mouth in 1869 — an adventure of epic heroism.
Fortunately, the way to the canyon is now easy. Passengers may go in a Pullman to the very rim; others change cars at Williams, Arizona, for branch line train which makes the trip in three hours. The railway terminus at Bright Angel is in the middle of the granite gorge district.
While the titan of chasms may be hurriedly viewed in a day or two, and with utmost comfort, one should stay much longer. There are enough sights to see and things to do to profitably occupy weeks instead of days. It is a year ’round resort, with activities restricted but little in winter, and then only on the rim.
Visitors will find highest class accommodations at El Tovar Hotel, under management of Fred Harvey; or they may patronize Bright Angel Cottages, adjacent, also managed by Harvey. Near by is a unique structure occupied by Hopi and Navajo Indians, who here engage in their curious handicrafts.
Whether the visitor autos along Hermit Rim Road, or to Grand View and Painted Desert View—whether he hits the trail down the Bright Angel or Hermit path-
45Cathedral Stairs, Hermit Trail, Grand Canyon.
46ways to the Colorado River — whether he takes the unique three-day trip to Ribbon Falls, with two nights’ rest at Phantom Ranch, a mile deep down in the canyon’s depths — the experience is unlike anything else in the world.
For there is only one Grand Canyon.
Other scenic wonders are viewed either on the level or looking up. The Grand Canyon, from the rim, is looked down upon. The sensation is novel. It is like seeing a landscape from a low-flying aeroplane. Descend by trail, and, one after another, the Canyon forms seem to creep upward, until soon they take their place in familiar fashion along the horizon.
As glimpsed from the very edge of the abyss, the Canyon is a geologic marvel and a spiritual emotion. Below is a primeval void, hemmed in everywhere, except skyward, by the solid framework of our earth.
Snatched in a single instant glance from every accustomed anchorage of human experience, the beholder is in a new world. If you say of Niagara’s channel that it is profound, what shall you say of the Colorado’s chasm that yawns beneath your feet to a depth nearly fifty times greater? One faces, not a mere narrow frowning gash of incredible depth, but a broad underworld that reaches to the uttermost horizon and seems as vast as the earth itself; studded with innumerable pyramidal mountains of massive bulk hewn from gaudiest rock strata, that barely lift their crests to the level of the eye; divided by purple voids; banded in vivid colors of transparent brilliancy that are harmonized by atmosphere and refraction to a marvelous delicacy; controlled by a unity of idea that redeems the whole from the menace of overwhelming chaos.
An inferno, swathed in soft celestial fires; a whole chaotic underworld, just emptied of primeval floods and waiting for a new creative word; a boding, terrible thing, unflinchingly real yet spectral as a dream, eluding all sense of perspective or dimension, outstretching the faculty of measurement, overlapping the confines of definite apprehension. The onlooker is at first unimpressed by the ensemble of a stupendous
47Overlooking the Colorado River from T<
48i Tonto Trail—Grand Canyon National Park.
49Hermit Cabins, Grand Canyon.
50panorama, a thousand square miles in extent, that lies wholly beneath the eye, as if he stood upon a mountain peak instead of the level brink of a chasm in the plateau whose opposite shore is thirteen miles away.
A labyrinth of huge architectural forms, endlessly varied in design, fretted with ornamental devices, festooned with lacelike webs formed of talus from the upper cliffs and painted with every color known to the palette in pure transparent tones of marvelous delicacy. Never was picture more harmonious, never flower more exquisitely beautiful. It flashes instant communication of all that architecture and painting and music for a thousand years gropingly have striven to express.
The panorama is the real overmastering charm. It is never twice the same. Although you think you have spelt out every temple and peak and escarpment, as the angle of sunlight changes there begins a ghostly advance of colossal forms from the farther side, and what you had taken to be the ultimate wall is seen to be made up of still other isolated sculptures, revealed now for the first time by silhouetting shadows.
Long may the visitor loiter upon the rim, powerless to shake loose from the charm, tirelessly intent upon the silent transformations until the sun is low in the west. Then the canyon sinks into mysterious purple shadow, the far Shinumo Altar is tipped with a golden ray, and against a leaden horizon the long line of the Echo Cliffs reflects a soft brilliance of indescribable beauty — a light that, elsewhere, surely never was on sea or land. Then darkness falls, and should there be a moon, the scene in part revives in silver light, a thousand spectral forms projected from inscrutable gloom; dreams of mountains, as in their sleep they brood on things eternal!
Thus speaks the Grand Canyon to almost every one who comes within the magic circle of its perpetual allurement. Joaquin Miller affirms that at the Canyon color is king. William Winter calls it “ this surpassing wonder,” and Hamlin Garland is most impressed by its thousand differing moods. John Muir sums it up in a striking phrase — ‘ ‘ wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval.”
51Desert Road on way to Castle Hot Springs, Arizona.
52Southern Arizona
The Salt River Valley, of which Phoenix is the center, is a region of marvelous loveliness. Across the restful green of orchard and shade trees, of alfalfa and barley fields, of orange groves and palms, the eye is led to a distant horizon of rugged mountains, where shifting light and shadow make an endless play of color. It is for this valley that the United States Government constructed the Roosevelt Dam, one of the largest irrigating projects in the world. Roosevelt Lake is thirty miles in length. Along its steep banks may be seen Apache camps, with their primitive wickiups, their bronzed and naked children, and their many snarling dogs.
The dam itself is a marvelous bit of engineering — a high and solid rock wall flung adventurously across a deep chasm, impounding the blue waters of an artificial lake. The broad desert and mountain highway, leading from Phoenix to the dam, is much beloved by travelers who seek a new thrill. Coasting down Fish Creek hill, or skirting the hurrying waters of the Salt, or viewing the rugged outlines of Superstition Mountain — rising bare and barren from the sandy plain — is great sport.
The earth here lies full-faced to the sun, as level as a calm sea, widening to twenty miles and extending east and west nearly a hundred. The result of this happy combination of salubrious climate, fertile soil, commercial activity and congenial society, is to make Phoenix a peculiarly favored place, especially during the winter months.
The climate is friendly to invalids, even during the hot summer, but winter brings the main influx of visitors. The beneficent effect upon those who seek an enjoyable retreat from the harsh cold weather of the North and East is not easily exaggerated. The soft air has a tonic quality. The atmosphere reminds one of the Great Sahara; it is dryer than Morocco, Algiers or Tunis, and more sunshiny than Egypt.
In addition to a full complement of hotels, a feature is made of “ tenting out ” in the open desert. Phoenix is the state capital, a busy city of some 35,000 people.
53Irrigation Canal near Phoenix, Arizona,For the stranger there are provided golf grounds, palm-shaded drives, clubs, theaters, the ease of well-kept inns, and a delightful social life. Many wealthy Easterners stay in Phoenix at least a part of each midwinter. Some of them put up at the Ingleside Inn, nine miles out — a sort of family club, with golf links and orchards. Sir Gilbert Parker, the novelist, highly commends Ingleside. In the outlying districts are groves of lemons, oranges and grapefruit. Alfalfa and cotton are the leading crops of the valley.
The Pima and Maricopa Indians daily are seen in the streets of Phoenix, disposing of baskets, pottery and mesquite. The wholly up-to-date red man and red woman are being educated at the U. S. Indian Industrial School.
Twenty-three miles southeast is the suburban town of Chandler. Here has been built a tourist hotel of the highest type, the San Marcos. The architecture is Italian-Spanish — a broad, low, two-story edifice, flat-roofed, and built around a grassy square. Golf and horseback rides are the leading recreations.
In the foothills of the Bradshaw Mountains is Castle Hot Springs, a high-class fall, winter and spring resort, which offers the many joys of life in the open, far from the madding crowd. The hotel comprises three separate buildings and five bungalows, modernly equipped. The bathhouses provide for the administration of hot medicinal water by various methods. Do you golf? Here are well-kept links. Do you like to ride horseback, or hike over long and hilly trails? This is a place where such outdoor joys may be indulged to the heart’s content. Do you simply wish to loaf in the sun? It may be done here, lazily and in perfect peace. To reach this shut-in valley of content, get off the Santa Fe train at Hot Springs Junction and take the waiting auto.
From Ash Fork, with its Fred Harvey hotel, the Escalante, Santa Fe rails extend southward through Prescott to Phoenix. The traveler is afforded glimpses of nearly every variety of scenery typical of Arizona.
There are bleak, barren mountains, and mountains covered with forests of pine or cedar, on whose slopes are seen dumps of world-famous mines.
55Roosevelt Dam, Arizona.There are rocky desert wastes, where only uncouth cacti find footing, and vast arid stretches which in early spring are overspread with flowers, among which the poppy predominates. There are waterless canyons, and canyons walling turbid streams; unreclaimed vales dotted with cattle, and broad irrigated valley-plains where is cultivated in profusion nearly every variety of fruit and vegetable, in addition to an enormous acreage of alfalfa, cereals and cotton.
It comes somewhat as a surprise to note how abrupt is the transition from bleak winter to budding spring, or from spring to full midsummer, by merely taking the half-day journey from Ash Fork to Phoenix. Not only does one advance into sunland, but there is a drop toward sea-level of almost a mile. In one stretch of fourteen miles the descent is two thousand feet.
En route is Hassayampa River, near Wickenburg — of which stream it is affirmed that whoever drinks of its waters will never afterward tell the truth, have a dollar, nor leave Arizona. Within a few miles is the Vulture Mine, a $20,000,000 producer. The Santa Fe has built a long branch line from Wickenburg, via Parker, on the Colorado River, to a junction with the main California line at Cadiz — enabling one to continue the journey coastward without retracing steps.
Prescott, a lively town of 8,000 population, once was Arizona’s capital. Up in the hills, a mile above the sea, in the pine belt, what wonder that the summers are cool! Here, too, is located historic Fort Whipple, a government post, established in 1864, and the Point of Rocks, once an Apache stronghold. The United Verde copper mine, also the Congress gold mine, are in this region. To reach Clarkdale smelters, it is necessary to traverse for two-thirds of the way the box canyon of the Upper Verde — like unto the grandest of canyons in its forms and coloring. In this same Verde Valley, farther down, is Montezuma Castle national monument, one of the best preserved relics left to us by the cliff dwellers. It occupies a natural depression in the vertical limestone cliff, high above the stream. It is unique in structural design and a perfectly fashioned communal house.
57Orange Grove, near Pasadena.
58A California Prelude
As an introduction to southern California, you are borne across the Mojave Desert, which stretches in arid glory from Needles, on the Colorado River — where El Garces Hotel sits amid cooling shadows — all the way up to the Cajon and Tehachapi passes.
You wonder if this really is California — but wait!
More than three hundred miles southwest from Needles is Los Angeles, the city of the queen of the angels. San Diego is three and a half hours farther to the south, on the Mexican border. In miles, San Francisco lies six hundred to the northwest — and nearly half of California still stretches upcoast.
It is a country of magnificent distances, admirably served by Santa Fe lines south of the Golden Gate.
The transcontinental line splits at Barstow.
If bound for the south, your train climbs Cajon Pass, and then slips down to the orange groves, the sunshine and the roses. This is the California of your dreams — the land of heart’s desire, where winter is forgotten.
This winterless Eden would not have been possible had it not been for the desert just traversed.
If bound for the north, your train winds in and out among the spiralled tunnels of Tehachapi, and quickly reaches the upper part of the San Joaquin Valley — another sunshiny and flowery land, where winter is far away on the peaks of the Sierra. The Coast Range shuts off the ocean on the west.
You will not, however, find this whole land a jungle of oranges and palm trees, parted only by thick banks of flowers. It is true that in places almost you may pluck oranges by reaching from the car window in passing; but the celebrated products of California lie in restricted areas of cultivation. As for flowers, even here they are not eternal, except in the thousands of watered gardens. In the dry summer season the hills turn brown and sleep. Only when winter rains have slaked the parched earth do grass and flowers awake, and then for a few months there is enough of bloom and fragrance.
It is indeed the Land of Heart’s Desire.
5»San Juan Capistrano Mission.
60The Climate
Ranging from warm sea-level to peaks of frigid inclemency, this varied State offers many climatic gradations. In winter you may sit upon almost any veranda in the lowland country and lift your eyes from the brilliant green of ornamental trees and shrubs, from orchards where fruits ripen in heavy clusters, and from the variegated bloom of gardens, to ragged horizon lines buried deep in snow. There above is a frozen waste and Alpine terror. Here below is summer, shorn of summer languor.
The most seductive of lands, and the most tenacious in its hold upon you. You have done but little, and a day has fled; have idled, walked, ridden, sailed a little; have seen a few of the thousand things to be seen — and a week, a month, is gone. You could grieve that such golden burdenless hours should ever go into the past, did they not flow from an inexhaustible fount. For to be out all day in the careless freedom of perfect weather; to wander through gardens and orchards; to fish, to gather flowers from the blossoming hill-slopes; to explore a huhdred fascinating retreats of mountain and shore; to lounge on the sands by the surf until the sun drops into the sea; all this is permitted by the California winter.
Here the sun habitually shines. Near the coast flows the broad equable ocean current, from which a tempered breeze sweeps overland every morning, every night to return from the cool mountain tops. Between the first of May and the last of October rain almost never falls. By the end of June the earth has evaporated most of its surface moisture, and vegetation unsustained by artificial watering begins to languish. The midday temperature now rises, but the same breeze swings between ocean and mountain, and night and early morning are no less invigorating.
This is the California summer — cool at all hours by the sea and in the mountains, with cool mornings and evenings for the lands between. Many esteem summer as the most desirable time of the year. Then for weeks the canyons are dotted with tents, where the mountain torrents foam and spreading sycamores
61Auto Bridge over Arroyo Seco, Pasadena, California.are festooned with mistletoe; and the trout of the stream have their solstice of woe. Or, on the rim of the sea, thousands congregate and hold high carnival.
Afterwards come the tourists — pale fugitives from the buffets of Boreas — to wander over hillside and shore in a clime unvexed by the tyranny of seasons.
With November the first showers generally begin, and sere hills turn beryl-green. The rainy season is so called not because it is characterized by continuous rainfall, but to distinguish it from that portion of the year in which rain is not looked for. Bright days are still the rule, and showery days are marked by transcendent beauties of earth and sky, fleeting wonders of form and color. Let the morning open with a murky zenith, dark tumbled cloud-masses, dropping showers. By noon the sun again is shining clear, although in occasional canyons there is night and deluge, and at the close of a bright afternoon the farthest, loftiest peak has a white cloud wreath around it, as symmetrical as a smoke ring breathed from the lips of a señorita; and out of the middle of it rises the fragment of a rainbow — a cockade on a mist-laureled Matterhorn. Then the sun drops, and the day is done.
Between such days are unclouded intervals of considerable duration. They call this season winter. The temperature is so finely balanced one does not easily decide whether to walk upon the sunny or the shady side of the street. It is cool, not cold — not bracing in the ordinary sense, but just the proper temperature for continuous out-of-door life. June does not define it, nor September. It has no synonym. But if you cared to add one more to the many unsuccessful attempts to define it in a phrase, you might term it constant, delicious weather; today, tomorrow, and indefinitely in the future, morally certain to be very much as you would have it if you were to create an air and a sky exactly to suit.
Even here a coolness pervades the most brilliant sunshine. Yet there is no menace in the dry, pure, and gently invigorating air. It wins the invalid to health by enticement to remain out of doors.
No land has absolutely perfect weather. California merely claims to be especially favored.
63Bathing at Long Beach, California.The Desert
The very desert that separates the fertile section of the Golden State from the verdant valleys of the East is climatically a blessing in disguise. It makes possible the semi-tropic winters, also the cool summers that so delight the sojourner in this sunny land — because of the flow of air currents back and forth between desert and sea. The hot and dry air is a reservoir from which new life flows for living things outside its rim. And within the bowl, notwithstanding the aridity and the desolateness, people live the year ’round and would not live anywhere else.
You may have read about the lure of the desert. You were unbelieving. You were a doubting Thomas, demanding to be convinced.
The fascination of this desert land is like the lure that the sea has for the mariner. Stay long enough, and you will wish to stay forever. Perhaps it is the wide horizons. Perhaps it is the solitude. Possibly it is the tender coloring of the far distances. It may be because of the weirdly beautiful sunsets and the afterglows. Or the strange plant forms, the unusual rocks, the shifting, singing sands — they may enthrall you.
The potent spell exists in a hundred guises.
Crossing this arid world, the Santa Fe Way, on either hand lies a drear stretch of sand and alkali, relieved only by black patches of lava and a mountainous horizon. Ages ago this lava was molten, flowing in red-hot streams.
A Nubian desert, in very truth. Through this the train hastens to a more elevated country, arid still, but relieved by rugged rocks, the gnarled trunks and bolls of the yucca and occasional growths of deciduous trees. Craters of extinct volcanoes form interesting landmarks, and there are a number of rich mining districts tributary to the line, but unseen from the train. A strange river, the Mojave, keeps company with the track for several miles, flowing gently northward, to finally lose itself in thirsty sand.
At Hesperia are vineyards — first hint of the paradise just over the range.
65Yachting in San Diego Harbor.The trip, if taken at night, is without the slightest discomfort; if by day and in midsummer, the sun will shine hotly — but electric fans inside the car keep the air cooled. There is little dust, for the tracks are oil-sprinkled.
In winter the air is soft and balmy.
This same Mojave Desert forms part of the largest county in the United States. Sterile as is its appearance, it is yet a region of uncountable wealth. Precious and base metals, as well as rare gems, are found in the ledges which seam every mountain range, while the valleys are a vast storehouse of borax, soda, gypsum, nitre, salt and many other chemical compounds which are in constant demand. And desert though this country is rightly called, there are yet great stretches of land where the most bounteous harvests may be gathered, provided water is spread over it. Strangely enough, the precious fluid has been found in abundance where it was supposed not to be, and so near the surface that it is no task to raise and distribute it.
Given sufficient water, this entire region blossoms like the rose. It is dotted by friendly oases of green fields and shaded orchards.
In almost the geographical center of this vast domain, named San Bernardino County, is Ludlow, on the Santa Fe main line, and the southern terminus of the railroad that leads north through Death Valley and to the bonanza mining camps beyond in Nevada. Death Valley lies between the Funeral and Pana-mints. The floor of this mighty sink is nearly 300 feet below sea-level; it is covered in greater part by an incrustation of alkali compounds which, at a distance, look like snow.
But no obstacles, climatic or otherwise, stay the gold-seeker — even a name like Death Valley.
At Barstow, junction of the San Francisco and Southern California lines of the Santa Fe, is another one of the station hotels managed by Fred Harvey. Architecturally it is of the Spanish Renaissance, and appropriately named Casa del Desierto, the “ house of the desert.”
One forgives even the arid sands, because of this hospitable casa.
67Horseback Party, Beverly Hills.
68The Spanish-Mexican Life
The Spaniard was a world conqueror in his day, and master of California before the Stars and Stripes had been devised. The story of his subjugation of the southwestern portion of the New World is most brilliant. It is a story of unexampled deeds of arms. Sword and cross, and love of fame and gold, are inextricably interwoven with it. The Saxon epic is a more complex tale of obscure heroism, of emigrant cavalcades, of pioneer homes, of business enterprise.
The world may never know a sublimer indifference to fatigue, suffering and death than characterized the Spanish invaders of America for more than two centuries. Whatever the personal considerations that allured them, the extension of Spanish empire and the advancement of the cross amid barbarians was their effectual purpose. The conquistador was a crusader, and with all his cruelty and rapacity he is a splendid figure of incarnate force. But the westward-flowing wave of Saxon conquest has set him, too, aside. In this fair land of California, won at smallest cost, and seemingly created for him, his descendants today are little more than a tattered fringe upon the edges of the displacing civilization. He has left his mark upon every mountain and valley in names that will long endure, but himself has been supplanted.
You will find a Spanish (Mexican) quarter — unkempt and adobe, containing elements of the picturesque — in almost all the older settlements. Señores, señoras and señoritas are encountered upon the streets, but are not in general distinguished by any peculiarity of attire.
The words Spanish and Mexican are commonly used in California to distinguish a racial difference. Not a few of the Spanish soldiery and colonists originally took wives from among the native Indians. Their offspring has had its charms for later comers of still other races, and a complexity of mixture has resulted.
The term Mexican is generally understood to apply to this amalgamation, those of pure Castilian descent preferring to be known as Spanish. The latter, numerically a small class, represent high types.
69On the Tennis Court, Coronado Beach.Story of the Missions
In the middle of the eighteenth century the Spanish throne, desiring to encourage colonization of its territory of Upper California, then unpeopled save by native Indian tribes, entered into an arrangement with the Order of St. Francis to establish missions in the new country which were to be the nuclei of future settlements, to which Spanish subjects were encouraged to emigrate.
By the terms of that arrangement the Franciscans were to possess the mission properties and their revenues for ten years, which was deemed a sufficient period in which to fairly establish the colonies, when the entire property was to revert to the Spanish government. The Franciscans were left in undisputed possession for more than half a century.
The monk chosen to take charge of the undertaking was Junipero Serra. In the early summer of 1 769 he entered the bay of San Diego, 227 years after Cabrillo had discovered it for Spain. Within two months Serra had founded a mission near the mouth of the San Diego River, which five years after was relocated some six miles up the valley. From that time one mission after another was founded, twenty-one in all, from San Diego along the coast as far north as San Francisco. The most important of these were built of stone and a hard burnt brick. The labor of their construction was appalling. Brick had to be burnt, stone quarried and dressed, and huge rafters brought on men’s shoulders from mountain forests, sometimes leagues away, over trackless hills.
The Indians performed nearly all of this labor, under the direction of the fathers. These Indians were tractable, as a rule. They were the bondsmen of the padres, whose aim was to convert them to Christianity and civilization. Many thousands gathered around the missions, their daughters becoming neophytes in the convents, and the others contributing their labor to the industries of agriculture, cattle raising, and a variety of manufactures.
There were, after the primitive fashion of the time, woolen-mills, wood-working and blacksmith shops,
71The Municipal Links, Griffith Park, Los Angeles.and such other manufactories as were then practicable.
The mission properties soon became enormously valuable, their yearly revenues sometimes amounting to $2,000,000. The exportation of hides was one of the most important items, and merchant vessels from our own Atlantic seaboard, from England and from Spain, sailed to the California coast for cargoes of that commodity. Dana’s romantic and universally read “Two Years Before the Mast” is the record of such a voyage.
There were four presidios for the military guard of the missions, located at San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco.
The padres invariably selected a site favorable for defense, on the slopes of the most fertile valleys, and convenient to running water. If there was ever an Arcadia it was surely there and then. Oranges, olives, figs, dates, bananas, and every other variety of temperate and sub-tropical fruit which had been introduced by the Spaniards, ripened in a sun whose ardency was tempered by the dryness of the air into an equability like that of June.
At the foot of each valley, between the mountain slopes, and never more than a few miles away, the waters of the Pacific rocked placidly in the sunlight. In such a scene Spaniard and Indian plied their peaceful vocations, while over and around them lay an atmosphere of sacredness which even to this day clings to the broken arches and crumbling walls. Over these peaceful valleys a veritable angelus rang. The mellow bells of the mission churches summoned dusky hordes to ceremonial devotion. Want and strife were unknown. Prosperity and brotherly love ruled as never before.
It is true they had their trials, such as the dreaded temblor that upset the high tower of the Mission San Juan Capistrano and sent it crashing down upon the congregation below. Those, too, were lawless times upon the main. Pirates, cruising the South Seas in quest of booty, hovered about the California coast, and then the mission men stood to their arms, while the women and children fled to the interior canyons with their portable treasures. And there were bickerings
73Polo Tournament, at Pasadena.of a political nature, and struggles for place, after the rule of Mexico had succeeded to that of Spain.
The end of the Franciscan dynasty came suddenly with the secularization of the mission property by the Mexican government. Sadly the fathers forsook the scene of their long labors, and silently most of the Indians melted away into the wilderness. The churches are now, for the most part, only fragmentary reminders of a time whose like the world will never know again. Save only three or four, preserved by reverent hands, where modern worshipers still kneel and recite their orisons, the venerable ruins are forsaken by all except the tourist and the antiquarian, and their bells are silent forever. But so long as one stone remains upon another, and a single arch of the missions still stands, an atmosphere of consecration will abide there, something that does not come from mountain, or vale, or sea, or sky; the spirit of consecration, it may be. But if it is only the aroma of romantic associations, the suggestion of a peculiar phase of earnest and simple human life and quaint environment that is forever past, the mission-ruins must remain among the most interesting monuments in all our varied land, in common with those of southwest Texas and the old Spanish churches of New Mexico.
San Diego, the oldest; San Luis Rey, the most poetically environed; San Juan Capistrano, of most tragic memory; San Gabriel, the most imposing, and Santa Barbara, the most perfectly preserved, will suffice the casual sightseer. These also lie comparatively near together and are all easily accessible; the first three being located on or adjacent to the Santa Fe railway line, the fourth standing but a few miles from Los Angeles, and the fifth being almost in the heart of the famous resort that bears its name.
Reluctantly will the visitor tear himself from the encompassing charm of their roofless arches and reminiscent shadows. They are a dream of the Old World; one of the few things that have been spared by a relentless past, whose habit is to sweep the things of yesterday into oblivion. Almost can one hear the echoes of their sweet bells ringing out to heathen thousands the sunset and the dawn!
75Vernal and Nevada Fall«, Yosemite Valley.
76In the High Sierra
The High Sierra have been termed the American Alps. They well merit the appellation. Here are snowy peaks that meet the sky along a thousand miles of the California eastern border, and, crowning all. Mount Whitney, loftiest peak in the United States.
There are in this Sierra region mighty evergreen forests, groves of the greatest and oldest trees in the world, canyons where the sunlight rarely comes, pellucid lakes, trails that lead to vales of peace, foaming cataracts, waterfalls of unusual height, and peaks that never lose their crown of snow. This great granite country is a realm of delight for the man with a mountaineer’s heart.
Three National Parks have been set aside in this vast area. Of these, Yosemite is the best known and the most accessible. Sequoia and General Grant are primarily parks of big trees, though Yosemite does not lack fine specimens of sequoias.
The Yosemite National Park covers an area of more than 1,700 square miles, yet many of its most spectacular sights, generally viewed by visitors, are grouped in and around a small granite gorge — the Yosemite Valley. The floor of this valley is threaded by the Merced River. This deep-cleft mountain chasm, 4,000 feet above the sea, is walled in by towering cliffs. It is a realm of precipices, stately spires and domes, and world-famed waterfalls. Merely to name El Capitan, Half Dome and Glacier Point is to recall to memory huge rock forms that border the loveliest of valleys. Of its waterfalls, Yosemite Falls plunges half a mile downward, while Bridal Veil flings cascades of lacelike delicacy from a height of nearly a thousand feet. Mariposa, the largest of the big tree groves, contains more than seven hundred monster monarchs of the forest, one being 331 feet high. Northwest of Yosemite Valley and within the park are the smaller Tuolumne and Merced groves of sequoia.
These monster trees are from twenty-five to thirty feet in diameter at base and are of fabulous age — quite the oldest things on earth’s crust.
77Wawona " Mariposa Grove Big Trees.
78A new scenic region has been opened up by the completion of the road through Tioga Pass, skirting Lake Tenaya.
Yosemite is accessible and easily may be explored. It is reached by rail, from Merced, in the San Joaquin Valley, to El Portal. In summer there is also auto service via Wawona. The tourist season is from May to October, though one may go in earlier or later. In midwinter the snowfall is heavy and the outdoor life pertains to that season — skating, tobogganing and sleigh riding. The mountain trails are closed then. There are excellent hotels and public camps, or you may bring your own outfit and pitch tent.
It is the sense of the supremely beautiful incarnated which makes Yosemite the desire of all travelers.
South of the Kings River Canyon and west of the Canyon of the Kern, in the High Sierra, are the most extensive big-tree groves in the world. They are contained in Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. The former, besides its wonderful giant trees, has wooded canyons, 4,000 feet deep, and mountains which rise to an altitude of about 12,000 feet; also clear mountain lakes, of which Twin Lakes is the most beautiful. The park especially appeals to fishermen and lovers of wild animal life. General Grant Tree, in the tiny park of that name, is thirty-five feet in diameter and 264 feet high.
There are comfortable accommodations in the two parks, during the summer season. Sequoia is reached by rail from Visalia or Exeter, in connection with auto stage. General Grant is reached by auto from Fresno or Reedley, or by trail from the Giant Forest, in Sequoia National Park.
The proposed Roosevelt National Park is to include the two parks above named, also the canyons of Kings and Kern rivers, and the mountains lying to the eastward, culminating in Mount Whitney.
In the National Forests you are free to come and go at will, to camp where fancy strikes you, and to fish and hunt without restrictions, except those imposed by the state game laws. Roads and trails have been built throughout the mountains by the Forest Service and posted with signs for the guidance of visitors.
79Children and Flowers, Southern California.
80South of Cajon Pass
The Santa Ana and San Gabriel Valleys of southern California are entered through the Cajon Pass. You see a gently billowing mountain flank densely set with thick groves of manzanita, and all overhung by terraced ridges of the San Bernardino Range, that pale in turn to a topmost height far in the blue Italian sky. Entirely wanting in the austerity that characterizes the grander mountains of loftier altitudes, it takes you from the keeping of plateau and desert, and by seductive windings leads you down to the garden of California. In the descent from the summit a drop of 2,700 feet is made in twenty-five miles. On reaching San Bernardino typical scenes at once appear. On either hand are orchards of semi-tropic fruits.
Now past pretty horticultural communities, flanked by the Sierra Madre, the way leads quickly from San Bernardino to Pasadena and Los Angeles. Or one may enter the City of Angels by way of Riverside and the valley of the Santa Ana.
Still farther southward you pass through a fruitful region, and within a stone’s throw of the impressive mission ruins of Capistrano, to a shore where the long waves break upon gleaming white sands, and the air is of the sea. Blue as the sky is the Pacific, paling in the shallows toward land, and flecked with smurring ripples of the breeze. It is the westerly bound of the North American continent, and the South Seas of old adventure.
Next, swinging inland to find the pass of the last intervening hills, you make a final descent to the water’s edge, and come to San Diego, that city of Mediterranean atmosphere and color, terraced along the rim of a sheltered bay of surpassing beauty. Guarding the mouth of the harbor lies the long crescent peninsula of Coronado.
It is not the purpose of these pages to dwell in detail upon the tourist attractions of California. In other guide books such information is given.
It must here suffice to know, for example, that San Diego stands as the place of beginnings in California, fronting the harbor of the sun. Today its population
81Mountain Auto Road, California.is 1 00,000. It is the center of resort activity in the extreme southwest corner of our country. La Jolla, Coronado, Tia Juana, are words to conjure with.
And what can be said of Los Angeles, in a mere paragraph? What, except that from 1781 to 1860 the Town of the Queen of the Angels had only increased its population to a scant 4,000 persons, whereas more than three-quarters of a million is claimed for it in 1923. Fremont, the Pathfinder, here first raised the Stars and Stripes in 1846. It is the hub for a wonder pleasureland of seaside and mountain resorts, all within easy reach. California’s magic city of the South is a dream come true — where industry and trade and recreation join hands. There are roses climbing up every lattice. No bungalow is so modest as to lack its bower of flowers. The avenues are lined with palms and peppers. It is a place where life is not all struggle, even when making a living. Business blocks, parks, clubs, theaters, churches, libraries, schools — yes; but above all, homes.
Also there is lovely Pasadena, where the yearly tournament of roses cares naught that the calendar says the month is January. Here are many magnificent resort hotels that invite the winter wanderer to sojourn for a season. In the vicinity is Mount Wilson, famed for its astronomical observatory.
And Riverside, nearer to the desert country, first home of the navel orange, with its noted Mission Inn and Easter services on Rubidoux. Redlands, too, set amid the orange groves. And many other places of varied charms.
In the Sierra Madre Range east of Los Angeles, and along the thrilling “ 101 Mile Drive on the Rim of the World,” skirting both the Little Bear and Big Bear Lakes, in the San Bernardino Mountains back of San Bernardino and Redlands — also in the San Jacinto Range back of Hemet and San Jacinto — are tucked away many delightful summer vacation resorts.
Nor should Santa Catalina be forgotten, rising, like Capri, from the sea, a many-peaked mountain island thirty miles off coast, where the pretty village of Avalon and its new hotel offer genuine hospitality to whoever sails that way in search of sporty sea fishing.
83Bird’s-Eye View, San Francisco, California.North of the Tehachapi
Central California comprises that part of the State between the Tehachapi Mountains and San Francisco. Its chief feature is the San Joaquin Valley, bordered by the Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges.
Beyond Mojave the Santa Fe line bears northward. The summit of the Tehachapi Range is achieved by a remarkable series of loops and tunnels. Tehachapi Pass, with its limpid streams, shady forests and cool air, has an altitude of nearly 4,000 feet. Rapidly descending, the imperial San Joaquin Valley, 32,000 square miles in extent, is entered at Bakersfield. In this great basin, containing ten million acres of arable land, products of the temperate, semi-tropical and tropical zones flourish side by side. Along its eastern slope are numerous mines and dense forests, while at its southern extremity an extensive petroleum field pours rich floods from a thousand throats.
This vast expanse constitutes one-fifth of California’s total area, contains twelve counties, is 260 miles long by 60 to 90 miles wide, and is nearly as large as Indiana.
Half the grain grown in California is harvested along the San Joaquin. Alfalfa grows greenly on thousands of acres. The large cattle ranches are being divided into small holdings, for settlement by farmers, fruit raisers and dairymen. In one county alone there are 40,000 acres of vineyards, mainly devoted to raisin grapes. Orchards of prunes, peaches, apricots, figs, oranges, lemons and other fruits abound.
Bakersfield, Corcoran, Tulare, Visalia, Hanford, Fresno, Merced and Stockton are the principal cities— thriving communities, with modern business blocks, and tree-bowered homes.
San Francisco (population, 723,000) is located on San Francisco Bay, a quiet stretch of water 70 miles long and from five to fifteen miles wide. Few bays in the world offer such a panorama. None, save that of Naples, is so beautiful. It was discovered in 1769 by a Spanish land expedition.
The chief characteristic of San Francisco is its cosmopolitanism. Many races, and many types of the
*
85The Business Section of Oakland, taken from sky-plane.American race, have contributed their quota. Here, away back in 1776, was founded the sixth mission in upper California; but the actual settlement was more recent, in 1835. The city of the Golden Gate is justly famed for its hotels, its parks, its theaters, its water-front, and many-hilled business section. There is a unique Chinese quarter — a bit of Cantonese life set down in modern America. The presidio gives a military air to this important fortified port. Steamers leave the wharves at frequent intervals for long voyages to Hawaii, the Orient, the South Seas, Australia and New Zealand, or for shorter trips up and down coast.
While still keeping its residential charm, Oakland (population, 240,000) across the bay, lately has become a most important business center. It is built upon an almost level plain that slopes gradually from the bay to the foothills of the Contra Costas. One of the finest hotels on the Coast is located here.
Immediately north of Oakland lies Berkeley. This town is the home of California’s State university. From its hills may be seen an inspiring panorama. To the northeast are the outlines of the giant Sierra; in the immediate foreground is Mt. Tamalpais and the Golden Gate; below, far to the south, are the shining waters of the bay and the Coast Range peaks.
Along the peninsula one comes upon Burlingame, of polo repute, Milbrae and San Mateo, while below the junction of San Francisco’s peninsula with the mainland the Santa Clara Valley stretches southward. Along this valley lies the way to San Jose and the coast resorts of Santa Cruz and Monterey, with intermediate points of celebrity. Palo Alto is the site of the Stanford University.
Monterey, on Monterey Bay, was the old capital of California in the earliest period of Spanish rule. Near by is the well-known resort of Del Monte. Away to the south is Santa Barbara, built on the foothills of the Santa Ynez Range and facing the channel islands. Many fine winter homes have been established here, and the resort hotel facilities are of the best. Santa Barbara belongs in the Southern California group of tourist resorts, being directly reached from Los Angele».
*Drying the Prune Crop, Hanford, Kings County, California.In the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees—Yosemite National Park.Trout Fishing, King's River Canyon, California. 90Altitudes
♦
Through Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona the rails of the Santa Fe are laid through a land that averages a mile and more above sea level.
The diagrams and tables of altitudes, on this page, tell the story in compact form.
In summer, the high altitude of the Rocky Mountain region mean■ cool weather.
In winter, the southerly trend makes the climate a genial one.
Missouri River and East.
Chicago................... 593
Ft. Madison............... 521
Joliet.................... 538
Kansas City............... 750
Kansas.
Arkansas City.............1066
Coolidge..................3341
Dodge City................2480
Emporia...................1138
Garden City...............2829
Hutchinson................1528
Newton....................1440
Topeka.................... 885
Wichita...................1293
Oklahoma.
Waynoka...................1471
Woodward..................1893
Texas.
Amarillo..................3650
Canadian..................2339
Colorado.
Colorado Springs..........5975
Denver....................5173
La Junta..................4045
Lamar.....................3603
Pueblo....................4641
Trinidad..................5972
New Mexico.
Albuquerque...............4943
Clovis....................4218
Continental Divide........7251
Glorleta..................7421
Gallup....................6506
Lamy......................6458
Las Vegas.................6383
Mountainair...............6470
Raton ....................6627
Raton Tunnel...............7608
Santa F6...................6947
Texico.....................4138
Vaughn.....................5952
Willard....................6083
Arizona.
Adamana....................5277
Ash Fork...................5128
Flagstad...................6894
Grand Canyon.......1000 to 7000
Holbrook...................5080
Kingman....................3328
Phoenix....................1074
Prescott...................5304
Seligman...................5219
Summit.....................6097
Wickenburg.................2077
Williams...................6748
Winslow....................4856
California.
Bakersfield................ 420
Barstow....................2103
Cadiz...................... 823
Daggett....................1999
Fresno..................... 287
Hesperia...................3190
Los Angeles................ 267
Merced..................... 173
Needles.....................481
Parker..................... 439
Pasadena................... 824
Redlands...................1351
Riverside.................. 851
San Bernardino.............1077
San Diego................... 13
San Francisco................ 6
Stockton.................... 17
Summit (Cajon Pass)........3820
Tehachapi..................3963
Visalia.................... 384
Yosemite.............4000	to 9000
91Bird's-eye View, Los Angeles, California,Business Section of San Diego, and the Bay.Advertisement
♦
The Santa Fe runs four trains a day, Chicago and Kansas City to California, through the Southwest Enchanted Land —
The California Limited
The Missionary
The Navajo
The Scout
Meal service by Fred Harvey.
Pullmans to Grand Canyon National Park. Oil-sprinkled tracks — dustless.
Double-tracked for hundreds of miles. All the way on Santa Fe rails.
And the direct way.
For information about train service and the country traversed, address any representative of the Santa Fe or
W. J. Black, Passenger Traffic Manager
A.T. & S. F. Ry. System, Chicago
Jas. B. Duffy, General Passenger Agent,
A. T. & S. F. Ry.—Coast Lines,
Los Angeles, Cal.
Jas. F. Moses, Ass’t Gen. Pass’r Agent, A. T. & S. F. Ry.—Coast Lines, San Francisco, Cal.
J. M. Connell, General Passenger Agent
A.T. & S. F. Ry., Topeka, Kan.
W. S. Keenan, General Passenger Agent
G. C. & S. F. Ry., Galveston, Texas
T. B. Gallaher, General Passenger Agent
P. 82 S. F. Ry., Amarillo, Texas
THE HENRY O. SHEPARD CO.. CHICASO