THE LIBRARY OF
THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELESIssued by the Tuolumne-Calaveras Bi-County Federation of Women’s Clubs
Compiled by Mrs. Robt. Thom "Chairman of History and Landmarks of the Alameda DistrictPioneers of the West
Would God that we, their children were as they, Great souled, brave-hearted and of dauntless will!
Ready to dare, responsive to the still, Compelling voice that called them night and day From this far West, where sleepling greatness lay. Biding her time. Would God we knew the thrill That exquisitely tormented them until They stood up strong and resolute to obey.
God, make us like them, worthy of them: shake Our souls with great desires: our dull eyes set On some high star whose quenchless light will wake Us from our dreams, and guide us from this fen Of selfish ease won by our fathers’ sweat. Oh, lift us up—the West has need of men.
From “The Vanishing Race” By Ella HutchingsonTUOLUMNE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Tuolumne County, one of the most interesting and romantic spots in California, was one cf the original twenty-seven counties of the State of California, founded in 1850.
The word Tuolumne is a corruption of the Indian vmrd ־“Talmalame,” which means stone houses. This was the name of a large tribe of Indians who lived on both s’des of the river which now bears its name.
ST. ANN’S CHURCH, COLUMBIA
St. Ann’s Church, Columbia, was erected in 1851. It is situated on a hill overlooking the town and stands mute testimony to those stalwart pioneers, those argonauts of the latter day, who in their mad rush for gold, paused long enough to erect an edifice in which to worship the God who had so bountifully blest them.
The morning sun seems to smile a welcome and the last rays of the setting sun to rest on her in benediction.
In March, 1850, ilie diggings at Columbia were found-It is said by some to have been discovered by a party of Mexicans. It is said by ethers to have been discovered by Dr. Thadcleus Hildreth and party. A rush immediately set in for the Hildreth diggings, the name by which the placers were first known.
By the middle c׳f April not less than six thousand people had located in the vicinity of Kennebec Hill.In an area of 300 acres between Columbia and Spring-jfield, a place which was once a beautiful flat studded with •oaks, now a desolate waste of limestone boulders, $55,000,000 was extracted.
Columbia once had a population of 15,000 people and is supposed to have been a contender for the State capitol.
In the express office in Columbia there is a set of .scales and a safe which were brought around the Horn in 1852. Next to the express office is a brick structure which once housed the D. O. Mills bank. In fact every foot of Columbia is teeming with romance and history of early days.
In the summer of 1852 Mrs. Haley established the first school in Columbia.
In 1853 three Frenchmen found a lump of gold weighing 249 ounces and valued at $3,600. This claim was in Yankee Hill, about one mile from Columbia, and was offered for sale three days before for one ounce.
A quartz boulder found near Columbia in May, 1859, was bought by W. A. Sleeper, who crushed and melted it. It weighed 37 pounds. He obtained 29 pounds of gold worth 6750׳ dollars.
In May, 1854, the town was incorporated and town ■officers elected under the General Incorporation Act.
Columbia was a beautiful town and was called “The Gem. of the ¡southern Mines.”
On October 25, j851 the first number of a weekly newspaper, “The Columbia Star,” was issued.
On July 10, 1854 Columbia was ravaged by a most serious conflagration. Although almost entirely destroyed, the people with true pioneer grit and courage immediately began work rebuilding. By noon the next day, thirty buildings were sufficiently advanced to admit occupancy. Among the new buildings was “Armory Hall,” which was to be used by the Columbia Fusileers, a military organization which was organized the preceeding January.
In 1857 the “Columbia Light Artillery” was organized.
Over two hundred feet beneath the surface among the stones of the ancient river bed, which was covered by the lava flow which created Springfield Flat, the famous gold-bearing area at Columbia, a slab of granite bearing hieroglyphics, believed to have been carved by some one of the prehistoric race, was recently found by one of the miners of the Springfield Tunnel and Development Co. This discovery follows closely upon the removal of bones which Dr. C. Stock, professor of paleantology at the University of California, has pronounced to be the fossils of a three-toed horse known as the hipparion.
CITY OF SONORA
Sheltered in a beautiful valley near the foot of Bald Mountain lies the interesting and historic town of Sonora. In fancy one can see the immigrants as they wended their way over the trail via Stockton. All with the same purpose in view—the search for gold! Many hoping to make their fortunes, and return to their homes in the east. With what loving sympathy our minds revert to the stories of those sturdy pioneers who crossed the Sierras, and traversed the Immigrant trail. Almost every step was frought with danger. In some places one misstep might have hureld them over a precipice. In many places they had to build the roads as they went. And with what joy they must have hailed Sonora, and how like a Haven of Rest it must have seemed after their trials and hardships. What
Tuolumne County is today is due to the patience and untiring efforts of those sturdy pioneers.
Many people picture the pioneer as a rough and lawless person. This is not altogether true, while there were many lawless and desperate characters, yet many a noble heart beat beneath the red shirt.
That many had respect for the better things in life is shown by the fact that in March, 1854, Sonora could boast of five churches of different denominations and all were well attended.
The first school was established in 1852. Many of the pioneers were the salt of the earth and have left to posterity a priceless heritage.
In 1848 a party of Philadelphians discovered WoodsWashington St., Sonora, Taken Before Trees Were Removed to Make Way for Concrete Street
Creek and named it after their leader, Rev. James Wood. The next settlement was that of a party of Mexicans who pushed up Woods Creek beyond the Crossing and located Sonorian Camp. The name was afterwards changed to Sonora. All of the inhabitants were Mexican until the Spring of 1819, when the first Americans arrived. Mr. Keeler and R. S. Ham are supposed to have been the first American settlers in Sonora.
In November, 1849, the citizens met and formed a
town government. Their duties were principally the bufiding of a hospital and caring for the sick, as a great many were suffering from scurvy, caused from lack of proper fo )־I.
In May, 1851, the Common Council of the City of Sonora had its first meeting. In May, 1851, a miner named Holden working a claim in Holden Gardens, Sonora, found a nugget weighing 28 lbs., 4 oz., that was valued at $6120. R. Turner, a miner near Sonora, in January 1855 found׳'.u nugget weighing 30 lbs. valued at $6400; the next week he found another weighing 6 lbs. worth $1200.
Gold :seemed to be everywhere, Sonora and Woods •Creeks, both of which pass through Sonora, were immensely ־wealthy. Finds amounting to hundreds and even thousands of dollars were too common to excite comment. The labor of a single week often produced enough to take the miner to his home in the east, there to live in comfort the rest of his life.
Gold scales were unknown at this time. The amount ■of gold which could be held between the thumb and finger was called one dollar; a teaspoonful passed for an ounce; a wineglass full, $100 and a tumblerfull, $1000.
June 3, 1849, General Riley, Military Governor of California, issued a proclamation ordering a general election. It was the first election held by the Americans on the western slope. In 1849 the first alcalde was elected in Sonora. The office was without governmental authority, “but solely to meet immediate demand.
Letters were collected once a week, and delivered as :follows: $2.00 for each letter if stamp was required; $1.50 when postage was prepaid; 50 cents for mailing a letter in San Francisco.
In 1852 a Vigilance Committee was organized in almost every mining town.
On the morning of July 4, 1850 the first issue of the Sonora Herald was published. The first seven papers were printed on paper 9 by 13 inches in size. With the eighth number the sheet was enlarged to 12 by 17. In one case of necessity wrapping paper was used. The price of a ׳'־■ear’s subscription was $20. Single copies were fifty cents. Advertisements were inserted at the rate of $4 for six lines.
In the spring of 1854 the ‘‘׳Sonora Greys,” a military organization was formed.
In June, 1852 Sonora was ravaged by fire and nearly every building destroyed. Immediately after the fire a new trouble arose. Certain parties attempted to jump the land on which the buildings stood. The attempt was frustrated by an armed guard.
In June 1850, the Miners Tax went into operation by formal act of the legislature. This resulted in almost depopulation of certain camps. Sonora and Columbia suffered greatly, Columbia suffering the loss of almost four fifths of her population.
RELIEF
It is claimed by some that General J. C. Fremont was ־the first to travel over׳ the route later known as Emigrant Trail, and that he stayed for a week to rest his men and horses at the place now known as “Relief.” About eight miles from Relief is “Birth” Rock also called “Bust” Rock. At this place in the pioneer days Mrs. Wilson, a member of a party who had crossed the Sierras and followed the Emigrant Trail, gave birth to a child, hence the name.
Among the first to travel over the summit with a wagon was the Duckwall party. They had two wagons .and several yoke of oxen. They were uncertain at which
point to cross the summit, but were persuaded to travel via the Sonora pass. Many times the wagons had to be lifted over boulders, some places it was so steep it seemed almost impossible to make the descent. The Duckwalls hitched two oxen in front of each wagon and six behind to act as a hold back. In this way they finally reached Relief September 27, 1853.
How that mother must have suffered as she thought of her six children and knew not what their fate would be from one day to the other. As she gazed at the star strewn heavens at night how her prayers must have gone forth to Him who knows every sparrow that falls.ST. JAMES EPISCOPAL CHURCH
This picturesque church stands at the head of Washington street like a sentinel guarding the town. It was built by popular subscription and dedicated in 1859. Before the church was built services were held in the court house.
At one time the church was partially destroyed by fire. It seemed as though the Everlasting arm was stretched forth to stay the flames lest in their fury they destroy the work of the pioneer. Who can say, but that those pioneers gazing down the long vista of years had visions of the thousands who would pass this way, and that many might enter her sacred walls and there find “the peace which the world cannot give.”
“Enter into His gates with thanksgiving and into His courts with praise. Be thankful unto Him and bless His name. For the Lord is good and His mercy is everlasting, and His truth endureth to all generations.”
TABLE MOUNTAIN
One of the most interesting as well as the most ancient wonders of Tuolumne County is Table Mountain which is a wall like mountain having precipitous sides and flat on top, resembling a table.
The portion of Table Mountain in Tuolumne County is 17 miles long and averages % mile wide. It is composed of a very hard dark material of volcanic origin which flowed from its eruptive source some hundred thousand years ago, filling up the rivers or drainage channels of that time. The adjoining and surrounding country is said to have been several hundred feet higher than at present but during the ages of erosion has gradually worn down to its present level. On account of the hard nature of the material composing Table Mountain it has withstood erosion better and stands today against the horizon like a sentinel. Under Table Mountain, in the old river bed, nch auriferous gravel is found and has been constantly mined since early in the fifties.
St. James Episcopal Church, SonoraMARK TWAIN’S CABIN
In 1848 Judge Tuttle arrived at Mormon Gulch. He built the first log cabin in the county. This cabin became the nucleus of a village which was given the name of Tuttletown. Among the notable discoveries made in 1848 was that of Jackass Gulch which ranked among the richest diggings. The accidental loss of a donkey contributed to the name. At Jackass Hill, near Tuttletown, is a rustic cabin, a duplicate of the old dwelling of James and Wm. Gillis, where Mark Twain passed the winter of 1864-1865.
The cabin occupies the site of the old shack and was rebuilt through the '׳״merosity and public interest of W. J. Loring, noted mining engineer. About 2000 people attended the dedication ceremonies June 17, 1922, when the cabin was dedicated to the memory of Mark Twain, America’s greatest humorist. Wm. Gillis, Mark Twain’s old time friend, was
chairman of the day. He told many amusing and interesting incidents of the months that Mark Twain spent with him at the cabin. Mark Twain describes Jackass Hill in “Roughing It.”
Ex-Governor Stephens was one of the principal speakers at the dedication.
The old cabin was a rendezvous for the inhabitants of
the village and many an evening was spent in telling stories. In fancy one can picture Mark Twain as he sat before the fireplace listening to the stories ,and studying the different characters, while at the same time making mental notes which in after years furnished the foundation for the stories which made him famous and proclaimed him America’s greatest humorist.
JAMESTOWN
In 1848 Colonel James located on Woods Creek and founded Jamestown, which was named after him. He incurred the ill will of his neighbors, who changed the name
to American Camp. Later the old name of Jamestown was revived.A TREE
I think that I shall never see
A poem lovely as a tree.
A tree whose hungry mouth is pressed Against the earths sweet flowing breast.
A tree that looks at Gcd all day
And lifts its leafy arms to nray.
A tree that may in summer wear.
A nest of robins •in its hair.
Upon whose bosom snow has lain,
Who intimately lives with rain.
Poems are made by fools like me
But only God can make a tree.
—JOYCE KILMER
The Canyon Oak
This magnificient oak is near the town of Tuolumne. It has a circumference of 311/2 feet. Its branches spread over an area of 131 feet Tree surgeons estimate it to be between 600 and 700 years old. It is said by experts to be the largest of its kind in the world.
Tuolumne County has two groves of giant Sequoias. The South Grove of the Calaveras big trees adjoining Calaveras County and the Tuolumne Grove adjoining Mariposa County.CHAMBERLAIN AND CHAFFEE
At Second Garrote, a few miles above Groveland, still stands the house where lived J. P. Chamberlain and J. A. Chaffee, who were thrust into fame as the originals of “Tennessee’s Partner” by Bret Harte. One thing that stands out in their lives is their beautiful friendship. It reminds one of David and Johanthan or Damon and Pythias.
A pathetic story is told of their last days. Chaffee became ill and was taken to a sanitarium in Oakland. As the carriage was about to start Chamberlain reached up and took Chaffee’s hand. Neither spoke for a few moments.
Finally Chaffee said, “Don’t work too hard.” “Keep a stiff upper lip,” replied Chamberlain. After the rig had driven away Chamberlain said, “I don’t expect to see him again.” He was right for they never met again on this earth. After a few months of ill health and Loneliness Chamberlain ended his life.
ARRASTRA
A crude mill used by the early Spaniards and Mexicans for grinding their gold ores by means of a heavy stone dragged around upon a circular bed.
It was replaced by the stamp mill, which is still in use.CALAVERAS COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Calaveras was one of the original twenty-seven counties of the State of California founded in 1850. The meaning of the word Calaveras is skulls. The county was named by Captain Moragy of the Mexican army, from the fact that he found a number of skulls lying along the bank of the creek.
The mountain tribe of Indians refused to allow the valley tribe to hunt deer or gather acorns on the river territory. A fierce battle was fought near this creek. The tribes of the valley were victorious. More than 3000 Indians were killed, hence the name of the creek from which the county was named.
Main Street, Angels Camp, Calaveras County
Angels Camp has been made famous by its mines, also as having been the playground of Mark Twain and Bret Harte.
The hotel Angels was built in 1856. In the bar room of this hotel Mark Twain was told the story of the “Jumping Frog” which belonged to a man named Coleman. Later from these facts he wrote the story of “The Jumping Frog of Calaveras.”
Near Angels is the town of Altaville. In this town
there is a mining shaft in which was found a skull which attracted great attention and which Bret Harte immortalized in his poem, “The Pliocene Skull.” The poem was baserl on the following paragraph from the daily press 1866:
“A human skull has been found in California in the Pliocene formation. The skull is not only of the earliest p oneer of this state but the oldest known human being. The skull was found in a shaft 150 feet deep near Angels, Calaveras County, by a miner named Jno. Watson. Itwas sent to the State Geological Survey. This fossil proves that man was here before the mastodon was known to exist.”
THE PIONEER CHURCH
FIRST COURT HOUSE
On the highway leading from Valley Springs to San Andreas, at the Wheat or Gilliam place, known in early days as Double Springs, is situated the building in which court was held in 1851.
It is made in panels, these panels being shipped from China in the year mentioned. Documents are still in existence which prove by their date, April 26, 1851, that court was held here.
In Mokelumue Hill, nine miles from San Andreas, is an old church, one of the oldest in the state, with exception of the missions.
The miners worked after hours bringing in and laying foundation of lava rock. The ladies took up collections Saturday nights to raise the money to erect the buildingWithin a mile of San Andreas is the old Pioneer Cemetery where the miners were buried in 1851-52.
The Pioneer band is fast passing
Yet their spirit will linger for aye.
The work and foundations tncy builded Was not made to crumble away,
But will stand as a monument to them And their brave dauntless spirit of old.
The true heart, the quick hand, the kindness, Are to us far dearer than gold.
NATURAL BRIDGES
“Here the architect
Did with curious skill, a pile erect
Of carved marble.” (Carew)
These bi'idges are situated half way between Vallecito and Parrots Ferry. They form a most remarkable natural
tunnel. The water of Coyote Creek runs beneath them. The entrance presents the appearance of a Gothic Arch of massive stone work 32 feet in height and 25 feet in width. The rock and earth above are 30 feet in thickness, and partly overgrown with trees and shrubs.
MOANING cave
Near the pioneer town of Vallecito is the Moaning Cave. So named because of the moaning sound which issues from it at times. This cave has but recently been
discovered. It is said to be of a most wonderful formation. It is only a short detour from the road to the Big Trees.MERCERS CAVE
Near the old mining town of Murphys is located the Mercers Caves. They were accidentally discovered in October, 1850 by Captain Taylor, who with others were mining. They had finished their noon meal, and were shooting at a mark near the back of the cabin. Mr. Taylor thought he would place the mark at a greater distance and was looking for a tree on which to place it
when he saw a hole among the rocks. He examined it and saw the opening extended into the mountain. He called his companions and they commenced to explore it. The formation is varied and beautiful. From resemblances some are named: Angels wings, chrysanthemum bed, jug, one when rapped gives forth a musical sound and is called chimes.
Stamp Mill of Early Days, Angels Camp
James Ward, mining at Vallecito, Calaveras County, February 1853, found a nugget weighing 45 pounds worth nearly $9500.
Dr. Gillette, on his way to Mokelumne Hill, while resting in the shade of a tree, carelessly struck his pick in the ground and turned to view a four pound nugget. He and his companion dug out 14 pounds that afternoon.
In June, 1858 a company of Mexicans mining in Salt Spring Valley, Calaveras County, found a wedge shaped nugget twenty inches long and seven inches thick at the largest end, sloping down to an inch in thickness. It weighed 80 pounds and was valued at $17,000.
“Jill 1(cur tfcul "With the Ventanee cf 'Califernia.”celebrated throughout the world. He returned to camp and told his companions of the wonders he ,had seen. They laughed at him and would not believe him. A few days later he came to camp and said he had killed the largest grizzly he had ever seen and asked his companions to help bring the bear in. They followed him, and he led them to the tree he had first seen. Pointing to the immense trunk he said, “Now boys do you believe my tree story? That is the large grizzly I wanted you to see.” Some of these trees are over 300 feet in height and 90 feet in circumference. Their age is estimated 2000 to 3000 years old.
From the Calaveras Big Trees to Markleville is a pioneer road leading over the summit.
The giant trees, in silent majesty,
Like pillars stand ’neath Heaven’s mighty dome. ’Twould seem that, perched upon their topmost branch, With outstretched finger, man might reach the stars.
Their age unknown, into what depths of time Might fancy wander sportively, and deem Some Monarch Father of tills grove set forth His tiny shoot, when the primeval flood Receded from the old and changed earth.
How many races, savage or refined, Have dwelt beneath their shelter; who shall say (If hand irreverent molest them not) But they may shadow mighty cities, reared E’en at their roots, in centuries to come, ’Till with the “Everlasting Hills” they bow When Time shall be no more!
From Legend of CaliforniaMELONES
Hopes Reflected In Names
In the Pioneer Days of the old prospector or miner, his temperament was often displayed by the name given to his particular mine, as one can judge from the following names;
Last Dollar Chance It Last Chance Lucky Find Turn Back Wait Awhile Pipe Dream Never Quit Old Kicker	Square Deal
Forlorn Hope Realization Never Sweat Rest Awhile Paupers Dream Small Hopes Hard Scrable After Thought Knot on his Neck Guess Again Sick Man or “Skiddo” Hopeful Whiskey Gulch Good Templar Poor Mans Claim Silent Friend
Almost within the shadow of the Mark Twain Cabin, on the Calaveras side of the Stanislaus River, stands the mining town of Melones, so named because the nuggets found at this place in the pioneer days were the shape of melon seeds.
In Bret Harte’s time this place was known as Robinson’s Ferry, also Slumgullion. It seems to have been a favorite spot with him, as a number of his stories are staged at this point such as “Luck of Roaring Camp.,” “The Idol
of Red Gulch,” “Two Men of Sandy Bar,” and “The Lily of Poverty Flat,” for which Bret Harte likely borrowed the atmosphere and name from Poverty Flat,” which is located nine miles from Mokelumne Hill and a mile from Whiskey Slide (now called Clear Water). Bret Harte seemed to take the liberty of shifting locations to suit his fancy, a mere detail like a few miles would never bother him. The Slumgullion road referred to in “The Idol of Red Gulch” is the road leading from Robinson’s Ferry to Sonora.Bibliography
of Tuolumne and Calaveras Counties
History of Tuolumne County—San Francisco, Alley, 1882. History of Stanislaus County with biographical sketches.
Includes sketch of Tuolumne County—1881. Pg. 94-106 History of California—San Francisco, Hittell, 1897. Cronise. Natural Wealth of California—San Francisco.
Bancroft. 1868. Pg. 267-272.
California Miners’ Association. California Mines and
Minerals. 1899. Mining in Tuolumne County.
Pg. 345-359.
Tuolumne County. Issued by the Union Democrat undei’ direction of Supervisors—Sonora, 1909.
5 or 6 pamphlets issued by Supervisors and others.
Scenes of Wonders and Curiosity in Califomia—San
Francisco, Hutching & Co., 1861.
DESCRIPTIVE
Beasley. Tramp Through the Bret Harte Country—San
Francisco, Elder, 1914.
Parkinson. Adventuring in California—San Francisco,
Wagner, 1921.
Stories by Bret Harte—Tennessee’s Partner; M’Liss; Luck of Roaring Camp; Cressy; Two Men of Sandy Bar; Lily of Poverty Flat; Idol of Red Gulch; Outcasts of Poker Flat; Miggles; Twins of Table Mountain; Brown of Calaveras; Ross of Tuolumne; How Santa Claus Came to Simpsons Bar; Four Guardians of La Grange.
POEMS
Society upon the Stanislaus; Spelling Bee at Angels; The Bell Ringer of Angels; Illiad of Sandy Bar; Penelope (Simpsons Bar, 1858); Plain Language from Her Letter; His Answer to Her Letter (Reported by Truthful James (Table Mt,1890) ;Thompson of Angels; Truthful James); Her Last Letter (Being a reply to his answer); The Thought Reader of Angels (Reported by Truthful James); To the Pliocene Skull; etc.
Mark Twain—Roughing It; Dick Baker’s Cat; Burning Shame; The Jaybird and the Acorn; Jumping Frog of Calaveras; The Chaparral ־Train; Quail.
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