THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELESNo.W PYRAMID MADE OF MACAROONS OR KISSESThe Chef de Cuisine PROVEN RECIPES FOR THE COOK, BAKER, PASTRYMAN and CONFECTIONER Composed and Illustrated by DIRK VANDEGEERCopyright, 1923, by DIRK VANDEGEER Oceanside, Calif.PREFACE The author of this book, after an experience of forty years as baker, pastry baker and cook in many of the leading hotels in France, Belgium,־ and Holland, and in the United States, considers he is both qualified and justified in offering his recipes to the baking fraternity in general, the world over. The fact that every recipe in this book has been thoroughly proven by himself, and other well-known chefs, practically assures success to anyone who will carefully follow the instructions given, and the many illustrations provided will be found of great assistance, even to the most experienced. CONTENTS Page Frontispiece ........................................... 2 Preface ................................................ 5 PART I Miscellaneous Recipes ...............................11-76 Chapter 1. Yeast Doughs, Bread, Bread Rolls, Buns, French Brioches, and German Coffee Cake.......... 11 2. Puff Paste—Pies .............................. 18 3. Puff Paste—Tarts ............................. 23 4. Pastes, Cake Compositions and Cakes........... 28 5. Dumplings and Puddings........................ 33 6. Sauces for Dumplings and Puddings............. 37 7. Fancy Desserts ............................... 39 8. Meringues and Whipped Creams.................. 42 9. Jellies..................................... 46 10. Breakfast Cakes .............................. 48 11. Layer and Loaf Cakes.......................... 50 12. Small Cakes................................... 53 13. Fillings and Icings for Cookies and Cakes..... 58 14. Hot Biscuits, Cakes and Muffins for Breakfast .... 60 15. Ice Creams.................................... 63 16. Jellies and Preserves ........................ 68 17. Syrups, Fondant and Candies................... 71 18. Pastries ..................................... 76 Advice and Explanations for the Pastry Baker...........76A Illustrations—Miscellaneous ..........................77-180 PART II Kitchen Recipes....................................183-277 Chapter 1. Stocks and Sauces.............................183 2. Consomme and Bouillon.........................189 3. Kitchen Soups ................................192 4. Forcemeats ...................................201 5. Hors d’Oeuvres, or Side Dishes................203 6. Fish..........................................206 7. Eggs..........................................216 8. Beef..........................................223Chapter Page 9. Tripe .......................................230 10. Veal ........................................231 11. Sweetbreads .................................238 12. Mutton or Lamb...............................240 13. Pork ........................................247 14. Poultry .....................................250 15. Turkey ......................................255 16. Game ........................................257 17. Venison..................................... 260 18. Vegetables ..................................262 19. Salads.......................................274 20. Sandwiches ..................................277 Appendix ..............................................278 Explanations for the Chef.............................278A Illustrations—Kitchen .............................279-286 Index .................................................287PART I Miscellaneous Recipes with IllustrationsMiscellaneous Recipes CHAPTER 1. Yeast Doughs, Bread, Bread Rolls, Buns, French Brioches and German Coffee Cake BREAD MAKING. There are two methods in general use, known as the “Straight-Dough Process” and “Sponge-Dough Process.” The Straight-Dough is the better, where the dough is mixed in the evening, to be baked in the morning. No. 1 Quantities for Straight-Dough: 1 gallon of water or milk, 2 ounces compressed yeast, 2 ounces salt, 4 ounces sugar, 4 ounces lard or clean fat of any kind, sufficient flour to make a substantial dough. This will produce about 24 pounds of bread. No. 2 Straight-Dough For straight-dough have water or milk luke warm, soften the yeast and mix with flour, consisting of one-third hard or winter wheat, or what the bakers call “strong flour”; after all is mixed add the sugar, salt and lard and work the whole well together for 10 minutes or more. Place in a temperature of not under 60°F. The flour must not be under 50°F. in a cold country. In a country where the nights are hot, this dough can be made with cold water or milk, even ice water may be used to advantage. Cover this mixture with a greased paper and place over this a clean towel. In the morning, or when ready, cut the dough from the side of the bowl and knead well to expel the bubbles of gas. Divide into from 12 to 20 equal proportions according to the size of your pans or molds, work this up quickly and place in lightly greased pans, place the pans in a warm box, or tight fitting closet, out of draft or cold; the temperature must be considered at all times and quick work is needed for good results. When the dough is raised so it feels light to the touch, bake in an oven where flour will brown in about 5 minutes; baking will take from 40 to 50 minutes.12 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 3 S ponge-Dough Take same amounts as above of water or milk (luke warm), and yeast; mix with flour to a mess as you would make for pancakes; let rise until light to the touch; this must not take more than 40 or 50 minutes; then mix the whole—lard, sugar, salt and flour, the same a3 for straight dough—to a smooth substance and let it rise again for 40 or 50 minutes, until light, then proceed the same as in straightdough, from the time you make the sponge until the loaves are baked; not more than 5 hours should be required; always work quickly, as slow work will deaden your yeast or will cool the dough too much; see to it that the oven is ready at the same time as the loaves. From this dough all kinds of rolls or buns may be made as your fancy directs. Where compressed yeast is not to be had, the following yeast recipe is an excellent one for making bread: Dissolve in cold water a dry yeast cake and at the same time boil 1 pound potatoes; when thoroughly done pour the water in a clean pan and proceed to mix the potatoes with about 2 ounces good flour (the important point is to have the flour and potatoes mixed as hot as possible); return the potato water back to the mixture and add a spoonful of sugar and a little cold water, so that the whole is luke warm; put in your dissolved yeast cake, after all is well mixed and strained; add more warm water or milk, up to a gallon, and proceed to make your dough as explained in the straight-dough recipe. No. 4 Mixed Coffee Buns For buns, coffee cake, brioches, etc., more yeast is required and should always be made with a sponge-dough. The foregoing explanation holds good for all doughs made with yeast. Keep yeast in a dry and cool place; yeast will keep 4 or 5 days. No. 5 Cocoa Bread One yeast cake, dissolved in 1 cup of milk, for sponge, 51/2 cups flour, *4 cup sugar, % cup cocoa, cup butter, 2 eggs, 11/2 teaspoonfuls of salt; when ready, cream the eggs, sugar, butter and salt, add the other cup of milk and the flour; work this well, let it rise and proceed as for bread.YEAST DOUGHS, ROLLS AND COFFEE CAKE 13 No. 6 Rye Bread Proceed as for sponge bread ; 3 parts rye flour, 1 part whole wheat. No. 7 Graham or Whole Wheat Bread The same as wheat or white bread. No. 8 Bran Bread One gallon water or milk, two parts bran, five parts white flour, 2 cups molasses; otherwise the same as sponge-dough. No. 9 Oatmeal Bread One gallon water or milk, two parts oatmeal mixed in 2 quarts boiling water; after cooking a bit, add the white flour sponge and % cup molasses; otherwise the same as for sponge-dough. No. 10 Raisin Bread Add to 1 gallon dough, 4 pounds raisins, 4 eggs, 1 cake yeast and 1 ounce sugar; proceed the same as for sponge-dough. No. 11 Nut Bread Add to I gallon dough, 2 pounds of chopped walnuts, 1 extra yeast cake, 2 extra ounces sugar and 4 eggs; proceed the same as for sponge bread. Out of the foregoing recipes, any shape of rolls or biscuits may be made as your fancy may direct. The following four dough recipes are for coffee cake, tarts, fancy rolls, brioches, etc. These recipes will be referred to from time to time and will be known as sweet dough A, B, C and D.14 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 12 Sweet Dough A Turn 2 yeast cakes and 1 cup of warm water into sponge; when ready add 24 eggs, 2 pounds butter, 2 ounces sugar and flour to make a dough not too stiff; there is supposed to be enough salt in the butter, but if not, add a little more; this dough has to be beaten very thoroughly for 20 minutes or more; handle as explained in straight or spongedough recipes. No. 13 Sweet Dough B Dissolve 2 yeast cakes in % quart water (luke warm) for sponge; when ready add 12 eggs, 1 pound butter, 2 ounces sugar, 14 ounce salt, % quart milk and flour, to make a dough not too stiff; work well. Always have the yeast dough cold in hot weather and always keep it warm in cold weather; proceed as explained in straight or spongedough recipes. No. 14 Sweet Dough C Dissolve 2 yeast cakes in % quart water (luke warm) for sponge; when ready add 12 eggs, % pound butter, % ounce salt, 2 ounces sugar, 1 quart milk, and flour to make a dough not too stiff; proceed as explained in straight or sponge-dough recipes. No. 15 Sweet Dough D Dissolve 2 yeast cakes in % quart water (luke warm) for sponge; when ready add 6 eggs, 1/4 pound lard or compound, ^4 ounce salt, 2 ounces sugar, % quart milk, and flour to make a dough not too stiff; always work the dough quickly and well. Always have the yeast dough cold in warm weather and always keep warm in a cold temperature. Sponge is a “sloppy mess” of flour, water and yeast, but always work it smooth. No. 16 French Brioches Take recipe of sweet dough A, and proceed as directed; when ready to be molded, make balls the size of an egg and place on greased or buttered pans, 3 inches apart; when half risen, cut with scissors on 4 sides towards the middle, as a 4-leaf clover, or any fancy twist you like, brush with egg-wash, add a pinch of salt; let rise until light to the touch and bake in hot oven.YEAST DOUGHS, ROLLS AND COFFEE CAKE 15 No. 17 Belgian Brioches In Belgium, the French Brioches are made in muffin tins, with a head the size of a marble. Sweet doughs B or C can be used. No. 18 Flemish Brioches The same as the French, made with sweet doughs A or B. In making buns, rolls or cookies in any way, shape or form, always have them even in size, space and form. No. 19 German Coffee Cake Prepare sweet dough B; roll this to one-half inch thickness; put on well greased or buttered pan or baking tin; when ready for the oven, cover with little lumps of butter and sprinkle with cinnamon, powdered sugar, nuts or almonds and bake in warm oven. Some can be left plain and covered with icing and chopped nuts or almonds. The dough can be made richer or poorer as you desire. Raisins, citron or chopped nuts may be mixed into any of these cakes or sprinkled on top. No. 20 Brioche au Beurre or Coffee Cake Prepare sweet dough B, but with only one-half the butter; after the dough is made, let it rest for 20 minutes, then roll to the thickness of 1 inch or % inch, according to the amount of dough you have; cover the middle third part with % pound butter, cover this with one-third part of the dough and repeat the same with the other y2 pound of butter, then cover it with the last third part of the dough; let it rest 20 minutes between each rolling; roll it 3 times. Out of this dough is made ring cakes, sticks, squares, or give it any fancy twist desired; let it rise until light to the touch; brush with egg and milk beaten with a little salt and bake in a warm oven. Can be left plain or covered with icing and chopped nuts or almonds. This dough can be made rich or not, as desired. Raisins, citron or chopped nuts may be mixed into any of these cakes or sprinkled on top. No. 21 Apple Cake, Cinnamon Flavor Prepare of sweet dough C, the amount you need; roll to the thickness of y± inch; line your pan or tin, which is well greased or buttered,16 THE CHEF DE CUISINE and press the dough on all sides up % inch; cover this with apples, sliced to the thickness desired; let it stand to rise; sprinkle with sugar and bake in a warm oven under a thick greased paper; have a boiling grape jelly ready with plenty of sugar in it, and brush this over the apples, which will give the cake a fine appetizing appearance. No. 22 Fresh Fruit Cake Peach, apricot, pear, plum, huckleberry, gooseberry—are all handled the same as for Apples. No. 23 Savaryn Prepare sweet dough B; add extra eggs and beat well for 10 minutes; allow it to rise and beat it again until all the gas is out of it; put in well buttered ring molds, half full, and let it rise until full and bake in warm oven; have ready a thin syrup very hot, flavored with orange juice; have them well soaked when cold; put on fancy papers and fill center with whipped cream. No. 24 Mazarino The same as for Savarins in oval form, filled with whipped cream, just as a cream puff. No. 25 Baba Bake in timbale form; take dough B and beat well and soft with eggs, add raisins, currants and chopped citron soaked with syrup after baking. No. 26 Zwieback Take sweet dough B or C; add a little more flour and sugar; shape into rolls % inch thick, 6 inches wide and 12 to 15 inches long. When nearly ready for the oven, stick with pin all over; cover with a tin the size of the roll and bake in warm oven; when cool cut in % inch slices; place on baking tin and brown in a moderately hot oven, as you would toast. No. 27 Rice Tarts Line a cake tin, with a rim an inch high, with sweet dough B, let it rise a little and fill it with the following preparation: Cook *4 pound of rice—the amount you need—in 1 quart of milk; when done, mix with 4 eggs, 5 ounces sugar, a little salt and a little meringue, if handy; wash with egg wash and bake in warm oven.YEAST DOUGHS, ROLLS AND COFFEE CAKE 17 No. 28 Tuliban Take sweet dough B and mix as much currants, raisins, citron, candied ginger, candied lemon and orange peel as you need, a pound of fruit to a pound of dough, more or less, according to your taste, use tuliban form when ready; bake slow and dust with powdered sugar after baking. No. 29 Bunt Cake The same as Tuliban, but less fruit, put on icing and nuts after baking. No. 30 Cramique Beige The same as Tuliban, but less fruit and bake in square form. No. 31 Buckwheat Cakes A cake of yeast and a cup of luke-warm water, add buckwheat flour, a little salt and sugar, let it rise for 4 hours and bake on griddle. No. 32 Wheat Cakes Make out the following ingredients, a soft batter with a spoon, spatula or whip; 2 pints milk, 1 yeast cake, 2 eggs, a little salt, a little sugar, and a little butter, let it rise for 4 hours and bake on griddle. No. 33 Hollandsche Beschuit One gallon milk, 2 yeast cakes, 8 ounces sugar, 16 duck eggs, 4 ounces salt, y¿ pound fat, make a sponge and work it the same as sweet dough, but work it much more. Mold in round balls, the size of an egg, put on greased pans and flatten the balls, when half way risen, cover with a mold, the size of a 5 pound baking powder tin cover, let it rise till full, so that the dough lifts the cover, and bake in hot oven, slice in two and toast them nice and brown and dry, this makes the best food for children and sick people, and fine to serve with milk and chocolate. No. 34 Berliner Pancake Take sweet dough B; when ready roll to the thickness of two silver dollars, cut with biscuit cutter, put in the center a stiff jelly or marmalade and envelope the same; let rise and cook in hot fat.CHAPTER 2. Puff Paste—Pies No. 1 Feuilletage, or Puff Paste Two pounds flour—for the most part strong flour, or what is known as Pillsbury Best or Gold Medal—1 pint cold water (more or less), 2 ounces butter and a little salt; mix into a firm paste or dough; stretch this on the table to about a foot square, with the rolling pin, and have ready 34 ounces butter, worked smooth but firm; envelop this in the dough and flatten to a foot square; let rest for 10 to 20 minutes, then roll and fold in quarters; let it rest for 20 to 40 minutes and roll again in opposite direction; repeat this four times and after another rest of 40 minutes the paste will be ready. The most important part of this work is to see the dough is firm, not too stiff or too soft; the butter firm and cold and not too salty; most important of all is the rolling, which must be done with very short strokes, resting between and covering with damp cloth at all times; handle it always cold. It requires considerable experience to handle this dough successfully. No. 2 Pâté a Founcer, or Pie Paste Three pounds flour, two parts soft or summer wheat flour and one part strong or winter wheat flour; chop into this, on table 1 pound butter and 1 pound lard, both firm and cold, with iy2 pints cold water, more or less, and a little salt; work into dough very quickly (work it not more than just so it holds together), roll it 2% feet long and fold it in thirds ; let it rest and roll it again and, after a rest, the dough will be ready; observe the same rules as for puff paste; this dough can be made rich or not as desired by using less lard and more butter or more lard and less butter. No. 3 Apple Pie Use clean, good-looking apples the amount you need; mix with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon; line the pie plate, or plates, with pie dough, fill in the prepared apples, which have been mixed with sugar and cinnamon; put on top of apples about 5 small lumps of butter, cover with pie dough, stick a knife in the top cover five or six times and brush with egg, milk and salt; bake in a moderate oven.PUFF PASTE —PIES 19 No. 3A Mince Meat for Pies Boil in water, with salt, 4 pounds beef cut up in small squares, and chop fine 4 pounds suet; mix all this with 3 pounds sugar, 6 pounds currants, 2 pounds chopped citron, lemon and orange peel, 5 grated nutmegs, 1 ounce cinnamon, a few cloves and a little mace; boil the whole for 10 minutes; when ready to be used add to 1 quart meat, 1 quart raw chopped apples and some cider; season with salt and sugar according to taste. No. 3B Mince Meat for Pies Four pounds citron, 4 pounds dried apricots, 4 pounds dried peaches, 4 pounds dried prunes, 2 pounds lemon peel, 2 pounds orange peel; chop in meat chopper; add to this 8 pounds raisins. 8 pounds currants, 8 pounds boiled meat, 8 pounds suet, 8 pounds sugar, 6 ounces salt, 4 ounces cinnamon, 8 ounces ginger, 2 ounces nutmeg, % ounce cloves; add 2 gallons broth; boil the whole for 10 minutes; when ready to be used, add to 1 quart of the meat, 1 quart raw chopped apples and some cider; sugar and salt according to taste. The above preparations can be made without apples or meat. Cook the fruit with a little water for 10 minutes, with the suet and spices; this can be kept for a long time; add the apples later. No. 4 Pear Pie Exactly as apple pie. No. 5 Rhubarb Pie Cut into small pieces a bunch of young rhubarb, the amount you need, flavor with cinnamon; mix this with liberal amount of sugar, as rhubarb is very tart; cover pie; brush and bake in moderate oven. No. 6 Lemon Pie Take apple sauce, the amount you need; flavor with the juice and lemon grating; add a little cornstarch; mix all well together; cover, brush and bake as any other pie. No. 7 Pineapple Pie Mix with a little stiff apple sauce, grated pineapple and sugar; season, cover, brush and bake in the usual way.20 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 Huckleberry Pie The same as pineapple pie. No. 9 Currant Pie The same as pineapple pie, but use more sugar. No. 10 Gooseberry Pie The same as pineapple pie, but use more sugar. No. 11 Peach Pie Peel and slice peaches, the amount you need, and finish the same as pineapple pie. No. 12 Greengage Pie The same as pineapple pie. No. 13 Strawberry Pie The same as for pineapple pie; add a little red color. No. 14 Raspberry Pie The same as pineapple pie; add a little lemon juice and red color. No. 15 Blackberry Pie The same as for pineapple pie. No. 16 Cherry Pie Pit the cherries and cook with sugar in their own juice; use a little corn starch, add red color and fill in cake or pastry shells.PUFF PASTE —PIES 21 No. 17 Pumpkin Pie Take a Hubbard squash or pumpkin and cut in half with a saw; remove seeds and place, hollow side down, on baking tin and keep in a warm oven for about 1% hours; when well done press it through a sieve; now mix 6 ounces sugar, a little ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and a very little clove and a little salt into 1 pint milk; beat well with 4 eggs; add 1 quart of the prepared pumpkin and a little burnt sugar, for color; mix well together and season; line a pie plate and press the sides well up; pour in the mixture and bake in moderate oven. No. 18 Custard Pie One quart milk, 4 ounces sugar, salt, vanilla and 6 eggs; beat well together and bake in a lined pie plate, the same as for pumpkin pie. No. 19 Cocoanut Pie The same as for custard pie; add shredded cocoanut to the custard mixture. No. 20 Lemon Cream Pie, Plain and Meringue Boil 1 quart of water; add the juice of 4 lemons; prepare in another vessel 4 ounces cornstarch, 12 ounces sugar, the grating of a lemon and the yolks of 6 eggs; mix all together and let it come to a boil; fill previously baked pie crusts; beat the six whites with five ounces sugar for meringue; cover pie with this and let it brown in a quick oven. No. 21 Apple Meringue Pie This is an open apple pie, or without top; sprinkle the juice of half a lemon over the apples and let it bake in moderate oven; when done, cover with meringue as for lemon cream pie and brown in a quick oven. No. 22 Strawberry Meringue Pie The same as apple meringue pie, using strawberries in place of apples.22 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 23 Raspberry Meringue Pie The same as apple meringue pie; using raspberries in place of apples. No. 24 Gooseberry Meringue Pie The same as apple meringue pie; omit the lemon; substitute gooseberries for apples.CHAPTER 3. Puff Paste—Tarts No. 1 Apple Tarts Line tart molds with feuilletage, or puff paste, which has been cut out with a scalloped paste cutter; fill in bottom with a little apple marmalade or stiff apple sauce; cover nicely and evenly with apple slices; sprinkle with sugar and bake in a warm oven; have ready boiling grape jelly, with plenty of sugar, and brush it over the tarts, which will give it a rich appearance; flavor according to taste. No. 2 Peach Tarts Substitute peaches for apples; flavor according to taste. No. 3 Greengage Tarts Substitute green gages for apples; flavor according to taste. No. 4 Apricot Tarts Substitute apricots for apples; flavor according to taste. No. 5 Pear Tarts Substitute pears for apples; add a little ginger; flavor to taste. No. 6 Cherry Tarts Stone the cherries and cook, with sugar and red color, in their own juice; thicken with cornstarch and fill baked shells made of puff paste or jumble dough. No. 7 Plum Tarts Substitute plums for apples; flavor according to taste. If the paste cooks quicker than the fruit, cover the tarts with heavy paper and return to the oven.24 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 Rhubarb Tarts Cut rhubard into small pieces, the amount you need, wash and cook with sugar and a little stiff apple sauce; flavor and sweeten according to taste; after cooling, finish the same as for apple tarts. No. 9 Huckleberry Tarts The same as for rhubarb tarts, but the fruit does not have to be cooked over the fire. No. 10 Gooseberry Tarts The same as for rhubarb tarts, but the fruit does not have to be cooked over the fire. No. 11 Pineapple Tarts The same as for apple tarts. No. 12 Cranberry Tarts Proceed as for rhubarb tarts; fill the lined tart molds with cranberry sauce mixed with a little stiff apple sauce and finish the same as for apple tarts. No. 13 Strawberry Tarts Line the tart molds with puff paste, then cut for each shell a round paper, cut toward the center 8 or 10 times; cover the paste so papers do not stick over the rim of the paste; fill with small beans or cherry pits; bake in moderate oven; when cold, take out the beans and papers, which can be used over and over again. Fill shells % full with stiff apple sauce, mixed with a few crushed strawberries and a few drops red color; fill heaping full with clean, ripe strawberries; sprinkle with powdered sugar and finish the same as for apple tarts; grape jelly must be colored red. No. 14 Raspberry Tarts Prepare precisely the same as for strawberry tarts; substituting raspberries for strawberries. No. 15 Blackberry Tarts Substitute blackberries for strawberries and proceed the same way.PUFF PASTE—TARTS 25 No. 16 Frangipane Tarts Crush thoroughly in a mortar, 1 pound cleaned almonds with 2 eggs; mix in a wooden bowl, 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar and beat well for 20 minutes; drop into this, one by one, 8 eggs; mix well with almonds and 2 ounces flour. This mixture will keep for 3 or 4 days on ice; fill your lined pastry molds, brush them with egg wash, sprinkle with sugar and bake in slow oven; where there is no mortar, almond paste may be used: iy2 pounds almond paste to % pound sugar; otherwise the same. No. 17 Custard Tarts The same as custard pie. No. 18 Lemon Cream Tarts The same as lemon cream pie. Each and every one of the foregoing tarts can be made in larger sizes as follows: Take a piece of puff paste which has been worked over a few times, roll it into a round sheet the size desired; brush the rim with egg and salt wash; cover this washed rim with a strip of good pastry which will puff up well; wash and proceed precisely as for small tarts. No. 19 Meringue Tarts These are made by omitting the grape jelly and substituting over it, in a fancy way, meringue; the only tasty meringue tarts are made out of the following: lemons, plums, gooseberries, rhubarb and cranberries. One quart of white of eggs and 4 pounds of sugar make a good meringue for tart covering. No. 20 Tarts with Whipped Cream Made the same way, but omit the grape jelly and substitute whipped cream. The only tasty whipped cream tarts are made from raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, peaches, apples, huckleberries and pineapples. No. 21 Vol au Vent, or Pastry Shells Roll a piece of good puff paste to ^:-inch thickness, cut to size desired with pastry cutter; place on baking tin which has been sprinkled with flour; brush with egg wash; with the trimmings of the paste left26 THE CHEF DE CUISINE over, roll a thinner piece and cut with a size smaller cutter, the same amount of cake as before; cut a hole in these and place them on the first ones; wash the rim with egg wash and after a rest of 15 minutes or more, bake in hot oven. These Vol au Vent, or pastry shells, must never be made larger than 6 or 7 inches in diameter, as large ones will not puff up so well. (To be used in the kitchen.) No. 22 Frangipane Tarts, Large Roll out of puff paste trimmings or paste which has been worked over once or twice, the size desired; wash the rim with egg wash, fill it with Frangepan cream, a half inch thick, and cover with good pastry; trim it, stick a knife in 4 or 5 times, wash with egg and salt, wash and bake in a warm oven. No. 23 Mill Feuille, or Napoleon Roll puff paste trimmings into three sheets 4 inches wide and 25 inches long each; bake in moderate oven; when cold fill in with custard cream, place top sheet upside down and spread water icing over this; let it harden in the oven, cut in slices iy2 inches wide and decorate with glaced candied fruit. No. 24 Mill Feuille, Large The same as Napoleons, but cut round and any size you desire. No. 25 Cream Rolls Roll a sheet of puff paste trimmings, 14 inches wide and the length needed; cut in strips one-inch wide; wash or brush with egg wash; wind this around tin pipe an inch in thickness, with the wash on the outside, and bake in moderate oven; when cold fill with whipped cream, custard cream or meringue. No. 26 Allumettes, or Pastry Stick Roll the puff paste trimmings in strips 6 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 14 inch thick; cover with white of egg and powdered sugar icing and bake in cold oven.PUFF PASTE —TARTS 27 No. 27 St. Honoré Roll a piece of pastry trimmings the size desired, % inch in thickness; bake and when cold place little cream puffs filled with custard cream and dipped in caramel sugar, to make it solid, on the rim and on top of those orange quarters also dipped in caramel sugar, decorate over this, candied fruit, fill the middle with whipped cream and crushed macaroons and lady fingers soaked in orange juice (not with rum as we used to do); decorate the top with candied fruit. No. 28 Cheese Straws Roll puff paste trimmings %-inch thick; sprinkle one-third part with grated cheese, paprika and curry, to taste; cover with one-third of the paste and sprinkle again, then cover with the other third part of the paste, roll to the thickness of one-third of an inch, brush the top with egg wash and sprinkle again with cheese; cut in strips 6 inches long and bake in slow oven; serve with salads. No. 29 Palm Leaves Roll a good sprinkling of sugar with the last rolling of the pastry; roll and sugar it once more, and fold ends; cut % inch thick; bake side up on buttered pan in a warm oven; the last rolling must not be thicker than three-quarters of an inch and the cake not larger than 5 inches. No. 30 Buffalo Tongues Roll pastry trimmings, cut the size of a dollar and roll in sugar, oval shape, bake in moderate oven.CHAPTER 4. Pastes, Cake Compositions and Cakes No. 1 Tartlette Paste One pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound lard, 3 pounds flour; crumble with fingers; then mix gently with y¿ quart water on table, do no more than mix. No. 2 Paste for Meat Patties Yolks of 5 eggs, 3 whole eggs, 1% pounds flour, 4 ounces butter, a little salt and some milk to make a stiff paste. No. 3 Creams and Compositions For tart filling: 1 pound butter, % pound sugar, I1/¿ pound almond paste, 12 eggs, flavoring, 2 ounces flour; work it as a pound cake. No. 4 Crème Pâtissier, or Custard Cream A Boil 1 quart milk and mix the following composition: 6 ounces sugar, 1 ounce butter, yolks 12 eggs, 2 ounces strong flour, vanilla flavor; beat well for 5 minutes, add the boiling milk and let the whole boil for 2 minutes. No. 5 Crème Pâtissier, or Custard Cream B The same as No. 1, with yolks of only 8 eggs, and 2^ ounces flour in place of 2 ounces. No. 6 Crème Pâtissier, or Custard Cream C The same as No. 1, with yolks of only 4 eggs, and 3 ounces flour in place of 2 ounces. No. 7 Pistachio Crème The same as either No. 1, 2 or 3 crème; add very little green color and pistachio flavor.PASTES, CAKE COMPOSITIONS AND CAKES 29 No. 8 Coffee Crème The same as either No. 1, 2 or 3 crème; add a little burnt sugar and coffee extract. No. 9 Chocolate Crème The same as No. 1, 2 or 3 crème; add a little chocolate to give it the right taste. No. 10 Strawberry Crème The same as No. 1, 2 or 3 crème; add a little strong strawberry flavor and red color. No. 11 Hazelnut Crème The same as No. 1, 2 or 3 crème; add roasted and finely ground hazelnuts. No. 12 Crème au Beurre, or Butter Cream A Beat into 1 pound sweet butter, unsalted, about 1 pint strained French vanilla ice cream composition, either No. 1, 2 or 3; add a little more powdered sugar and beat well. This makes an extra good cream for decorations, such as flowers, etc. No. 13 Crème au Beurre, or Butter Cream B One pound fresh sweet butter (butter without salt), y2 pound powdered sugar and the yolks of 10 eggs, beaten light; add flavor desired. Butter Cream is a fine cream for decorating, as it stands firm and any color may be added; beautiful flowers and fruits can be made with it; an experienced confectioner can do wonders with these creams; cream No. 1 is the best for this fine work. No. 14 Crème Prisse, or Light Cream Mix yolks of 4 eggs in 1 pint of custard cream; heat this to the boiling point, then mix into this the well beaten whites of 4 eggs and a little sugar; do this over a hot fire and quickly, just mix, and no more.30 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 15 Whipped Cream One day old cream whipped into a stiff froth with powdered sugar and vanilla flavor; keep on ice. No. 16 Glace Royal, or White of Egg Icing Beat into a stiff, upstanding froth, powdered sugar and whites of eggs and beat in a few drops of lemon juice, or ascetic acid; cover with damp towel for further use. No. 17 Water Icing Water and powdered sugar, any flavor. No. 18 Fondant Icing Boil to a ball, the amount of sugar you desire, with water, a little glucose or corn syrup; let it cool on a marble slab and work it with spatula or wooden stick into a white, creamy substance; flavor and color as desired. No. 19 How to Peel and Pound Almonds Put the almonds into boiling water; let them cook for 3 minutes, strain and put them in cold water; drain well, take off the peel and let them dry for half an hour; now pound them together with water or whites of eggs, or whole eggs, according to requirements. No. 20 Sponge Cake One pound sugar, 14 whole eggs beaten light over a slow fire, mix into this 1 pound flour very gently, bake in the form you desire and flavor. No. 21 Muscovite Cake One pound very cold butter, chopped into 1 pound flour, until small pieces of butter are in evidence, prepare in a wooden bowl, 1 pound sugar beaten well with yolks of 16 eggs; beat into a stiff froth the whites of 16 eggs. Mix the whites into the yolks and sugar very gently, then the butter and flour, and bake in form you desire.PASTES, CAKE COMPOSITIONS AND CAKES 31 No. 22 Biscuit a la Richelieu Put y2 pound sugar, % pound almond paste and the yolks of 10 eggs in a wooden bowl and beat for 20 minutes; beat into a stiff froth the whites of 10 eggs; mix the whole with y2 pound flour and 6 ounces melted butter; quickly, but gently, and no more than mix; bake in small tins in soft oven. No. 23 Layer Cake, American A Put into a wooden bowl % pound butter, y2 pound sugar, a little lemon gratings; mix well with your hands for 10 minutes; break in 5 whole eggs, one at a time, and keep on mixing; add % pint of milk, then add quickly 1 pound flour, sifted with a small teaspoon, baking powder, and bake the size desired. No. 24 Layer Cake, American B Proceed as in No. 1, with the following ingredients: 1 pound sugar, y2 pound butter, 8 eggs, iy2 pounds flour, y2 pint milk and a good teaspoonful of baking powder and lemon gratings. No. 25 Layer Cake, American C Proceed as in No. 1, with the following ingredients: 2 pounds flour, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, y2 pound lard, 1 pound sugar, 10 eggs, lemon gratings, salt and y2 quart milk. No. 26 Layer Cake, American D—Jelly Roll Cake Two pounds flour, 12 eggs, 1 pint milk, 1 pound sugar, a little salt, 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder, y2 pound lard, and flavor. No. 26A Bride’s Cake One pound flour, 14 ounces butter, 1 pound sugar, whites of 10 eggs, y^ pint milk, 1 teaspoonful baking powder; flavor with extract of bitter almonds; rub sugar, milk and butter to a creamy substance, add the whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and flour mixed with the baking powder; mix the whole smoothly, but no more than just32 THE CHEF DE CUISINE mix; this can be made in loaf or layer cake, with bright red jelly between the layers. Cake and decorations for bride’s cake should always be pure white. No. 26B Spice Cake One cup sugar, iy2 CUP flour, y2 cup butter, y2 cup milk, 3 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 teaspoonfuls ginger, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, y2 teaspoonful nutmeg, y2 teaspoon salt and 1/^ teaspoonful cloves; cream butter, sugar and spices, add eggs, milk and flour, mix with baking powder; this will also make a splendid chocolate or jelly cake; add black sugar. No. 27 King Cake or Layer Cake Three-quarters of a pound of butter, 1 pound flour, 1 pound sugar, 94 pound fruit, 18 eggs; proceed the same as for Muscovite. No. 28 Vienna Layer Cake One quart eggs, 2 quarts yolks, 6 pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter, 3 pounds almond paste; work the almond paste with milk until soft and smooth; mix into this the butter until the whole is quite soft; beat up the eggs, yolks and sugar; warm until light and firm; mix the flour into it and then the butter and almond paste mixture. No. 29 Layer Cake and Jelly Roll One quart eggs, y2 pound butter, 2^ pounds sugar; mix well; 3 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, 94 quart of milk. No. 30 Honey Cake Boil 1 gallon honey (be very careful, it boils over very quickly) ; mix it, boiling, into rye flour, to a stiff dough, then let it get a few days old, weeks or months, the older the better; when ready to make the cake, take as much dough as required, mix with raw honey; the best way is to run it through a meat chopper 3 or 4 times, work it well, then mix; a little baking powder; any and all kinds of fruit if desired, such as raisins, citron, currants, candied lemon or orange peel, also nuts, almonds, ginger and any and all kinds of spices desired. In Holland and Belgium, where the best honey cakes are made, potash cream is used in place of baking powder; bake in loaf cakes the size of a brick in a very moderate oven.CHAPTER 5. Dumplings and Puddings No. 1 Baked Apple Dumplings Peel and core the quantity of apples needed; place them on a square of puff paste trimmings, rolled to the thickness of inch, and cut in squares the size needed to cover the apple all over; brush the rim of the squares with egg wash, place the apple in the center, fill the center of the apple with sugar, cinnamon and a little lump of butter; cover the apple with the pastry and place on top a thin ׳ piece of pastry, cut with a scallop cutter; brush with egg wash and bake in moderate oven; cover with heavy paper, if the crust will be done before the apple. Serve with hard sauce. No. 2 Baked Apples The Greenings are the best apples for cooking and baking. Select apples of uniform size; the quantity needed; core them and place in round tin; fill the center of apple with sugar and cinnamon; add a little water in the tin and let bake until done. No. 3 Boiled Apple Dumplings Mix 1 pound flour, *4 pound butter, 2 ounces sugar, a little cold milk, a little baking powder and 2 eggs into a dough, as for pie paste; roll into a square and cut, with a round pastry cutter, into cakes 4 inches in diameter and % inch thick; put in the center a very stiff apple sauce flavored with cinnamon, orange, lemon or any flavor desired, cover the dough all around. Have ready thick pieces of cloth, 8 inches square; butter and flour and envelop them; tie them firm, but leave an empty space to allow the dumpling to swell; plunge them in boiling water and boil for 20 minutes; remove the cloth; use orange sauce. No. 4 Boiled Apricot Dumplings Prepare same as for boiled apple dumplings; substitute apricots for apples.34 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 5 Boiled Peach Dumplings Prepare same as for boiled apple dumplings; substitute peaches for apples. No. 6 Rice Pudding with Orange Boil 1/3 pound of rice in 1% quarts milk, very slowly for 20 minutes; add 4 ounces sugar, the gratings of 1 orange, 2 ounces currants, 2 ounces macaroons, 1 ounce finely shredded, candied orange peel, yolk of 3 eggs, beat in whites of 2 eggs, % giH orange juice and a little salt; mix well, butter and sugar tight fitting pudding tins, fill them and let them cook for iy2 hours; serve with orange sauce. No. 7 Bread Pudding Take a deep dish, remove the crust of a loaf of stale white bread and cut into slices 1/3 inch thick; butter well and with them line the buttered and sugared pudding dish; put a thin layer of currants, chopped orange peel and sugar between each bread slice, until the tin is 4/5 full; gll the rest of the dish with custard made of 5 eggs, 1 quart of milk and 2 ounces sugar; bake in moderate oven under greased paper, for y2 hour; serve with cream sauce. No. 8 French Pudding Line deep tart molds with puff paste or feullitage trimmings, so that the dough sticks over the rim of the mold; fill this with sponge cake pieces, soaked with orange juice; pour over it custard made of 1 quart of milk, 5 eggs, *4 pound sugar and a little salt, and bake on a baking tin in a warm oven (muffin tins do very well for this work); serve with a nice sauce. No. 9 English Pudding Line muffin tins with puff paste trimmings, put into them gingerbread pieces, of a dark color, mix with currants, candied lemon peel, sprinkle with Jamaica ginger syrup and fill the molds with custard made of 1 quart milk and 5 eggs, 1/^ pound sugar and a little salt, serve with fruit sauce.DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS 35 No. 10 Sago Pudding Boil in a saucepan 1 quart milk, add % pound sago; let it cook for 15 minutes, stir well all the time, take from the fire and let it cool. Mix 4 eggs, 4 ounces sugar, vanilla and a little salt; mix it all in the sago; fill buttered molds and bake in warm oven, standing half depth in water for 35 minutes; serve with a sauce a la crème. No. 11 Tapioca Pudding The same as for sago pudding. No. 12 Rice Pudding The same as for plain sago pudding. No. 13 Farina Pudding The same as for sago pudding. No. 14 Indian Pudding The same as for sago, using yellow cornmeal. No. 15 Chocolate Pudding Put in a sauce pan, 5 ounces butter, 5 ounces sugar, 2 ounces of finely cut cocoa and yolks of 5 eggs; place on fire and stir well for 5 minutes; beat up the whites to a stiff froth and add 1 ounce cornstarch; mix all in the sauce pan, well and quickly on the fire; fill this in buttered and sugared pudding dish and bake in a pan with water for 30 minutes; serve with sauce a la crème. No. 16 Pudding de Frankford The same as for chocolate pudding, but omit the chocolate and substitute 5 ounces almond paste; serve with syrup a la vanilla. No. 17 Cocoanut Pudding Six whole eggs, 6 ounces sugar, 1 quart milk, 4 ounces shredded cocoanut; bake in buttered and sugared molds, in water; serve with cream sauce. 36 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 18 Pineapple Pudding a la Duval Boil in a sauce pan, 2 gills milk and 2 ounces butter; mix into this % pound flour, very quickly; take from the fire and add yolks of 3 eggs; mix smooth and add 3 ounces sugar, then a gill of cold milk; beat to a stiff froth the whites of 3 eggs and mix it carefully; butter and sugar the molds; put in a layer of this composition, then a layer of fine pineapple; repeat this 3 or 4 times; bake in a pan with water for 1 hour; serve with sauce to suit your fancy. No. 19 Peach Pudding a la Duval Prepare exactly the same as for pineapple pudding a la Richelieu, substitute peaches for pineapple. No. 20 Apricot Pudding a la Duval The same as for pineapple; substituting apricots for pineapple. No. 21 Apple Pudding Hollandaise Prepare a pudding paste, exactly as for pineapple a la Duval; mix into this 4 or 5 finely chopped apples mixed with a little cinnamon and 2 ounces sugar; bake in water the same as for pineapple pudding; serve with cream sauce. No. 22 Plum Pudding One-half pound currants, % pound raisins, % pound citron, 1/2 pound almonds, 2 ounces lemon peel, 2 ounces orange peel, all chopped fine; mix this in a vessel; sprinkle it with a little hot water, let it stand for an hour or two; mix from time to time. Work with your hands, % pound beef fat, chopped fine, % pound sugar, 1 pound cake crumbs and 8 eggs; add a little burnt sugar, a teaspoonful cinnamon, 2 teaspoonfuls ginger, 1/2 teaspoonful nutmeg, a little allspice and a very few cloves; mix in the fruit and fill into quart size ice cream bricks; butter and sugar and boil for 4 hours; serve with hard or any spicy sauce; where there is a brick bake oven it can stand in that over night, with plenty of water and covered. No. 23 Cabinet Pudding Mix raisins, chopped orange peel, currants and very finely chopped citron; sprinkle with warm water and let stand for an hour or two; then mix with cake pieces; place the whole in buttered and sugared molds, cover with custard made of 1 quart milk, 6 eggs, 4 ounces sugar and a little salt; bake in water and serve with cream sauce.CHAPTER 6. Sauces for Dumplings and Puddings No. 1 Apricot Sauce One-half pound of apricot marmalade, 2 ounces sweet butter (butter without salt) and a little water; boil all for a minute or two. No. 2 Cream Sauce Two ounces butter, 4 ounces sugar, 1 ounce flour, 1 ounce corn starch, yolks of 4 eggs; beat well, then mix with 1 quart boiling milk, boil again for one minute and flavor with vanilla. No. 3 Almond Sauce One quart boiling milk; mix 2 ounces butter with 5 ounces sugar, 3 ounces cornstarch and flour; add % ounce bitter almond paste and boil all for one minute. No. 4 Sauce Royal To 1 quart boiling water add 3 ounces sugar, 2 ounces butter, 6 cloves, a bay leaf, a piece of cinnamon, 2 ounces candied lemon peel, chopped very fine; let this cook for 10 minutes, strain and thicken with cornstarch. No. 5 Sauce a la Reine One quart boiling milk; add 2 ounces sugar, 2 ounces butter, 2 ounces candied orange peel chopped very fine; let this cook for 5 minutes, then thicken with cornstarch. No, 6 Peach Sauce Six ounces peach marmalade, 2 ounces quince jelly, 2 ounces butter, 1 quart boiling water, sugar is required; thicken with cornstarch. No. 7 Lemon Sauce Eight ounces grape jelly, the juice of 2 lemons; boil with 1 quart water; thicken with cornstarch; sugar if required.38 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 Orange Sauce Eight ounces grape jelly, the juice of 2 oranges and 2 lemons; boil in 1 quart water; thicken with cornstarch; add sugar if required. No. 9 Raspberry Sauce Eight ounces grape jelly, the juice of 2 lemons, 4 ounces strained raspberries; boil in 1 quart water; add sugar and red color if required; thicken with cornstarch. No. 10 Strawberry Sauce Eight ounces grape jelly, the juice of 2 lemons, 4 ounces strained strawberries; boil in I quart water; add sugar and red color if desired; thicken with cornstarch. No. 11 Pineapple Sauce Eight ounces grape jelly, the juice of 2 lemons, 4 ounces finely chopped pineapple; boil in 1 quart water, add sugar if required; thicken with cornstarch. No. 12 Apricot Sauce Boil 6 ounces sugar and 1 pound apricots, with a little water, and strain. No. 13 Crushed Fruit Sauce Peeled peaches, apricots or plums; crush and boil in a little Karo syrup and water; chopped pineapple, crushed strawberries or raspberries, or any or all of these, boiled with a little Karo syrup and water will make a nice pudding sauce.CHAPTER 7. Fancy Desserts No. 1 Apple Charlotte Line pudding mold with puff paste trimmings, put into this a stiff apple sauce, mix with a little butter, about half full, fill the mold with sponge cake pieces, sprinkle with milk and bake in moderate oven, covered with thick paper, serve upside down with clear sauce and decorate with candied fruit. No. 2 Charlotte du Riz aux Pommes The same as apple Charlotte; substitute rice, boiled in milk, for sponge cake. No. 3 Charlotte du Riz aux Amandes The same as apple Charlottes; only rice boiled in milk and almond paste; no sponge cake or apples. No. 4 Rice with Orange Charlotte Boil rice with milk; add orange juice and candied orange peel chopped very fine; finish as apple Charlottes. No. 5 Boiled Rice for Charlottes and Cakes Boil 14 pound rice in 1 quart milk; add a lump of butter and 3 ounces powdered sugar; this rice can be served with any of the fruit or cream sauces and will make a fine dessert. No. 6 Pâté a Chou, or Cream Puff Dough Put in sauce pan 1 pint of milk and pound butter; let it boil on a quick fire and as soon as it boils, stir into it 6 ounces flour; mix this well over the fire for % minute; take off of the fire and mix into this about 6 eggs, one at a time.40 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 7 Eclairs Press through a pastry or dressing bag cream puff paste, on buttered and flour dusted baking pans; strips should be 4 inches long, and as thick as a finger; wash with egg wash and bake in warm oven; let them cool, then fill them with creme pâtissière or custard cream and ice them with Fondant icing. No. 8 Eclair au Chocolate Use cream filling and chocolate icing. No. 9 Vanilla Eclairs Use cream filling and a strong vanilla icing. No. 10 Coffee Eclairs Use cream filling and coffee icing. No. 11 Eclair aux Pistachio Use cream filling and mix the Fondant icing with chopped pistachio. No. 12 Choux à la Crème or Cream Puffs Press cream puff paste on buttered and flour-dusted baking pans; dough half the size of an egg; wash with egg wash; bake in a warm oven; when cool, fill with custard cream or whipped cream; dust with powdered sugar; cream puffs may be iced same as eclairs. Cream puffs and eclairs can be made larger or smaller as desired. No. 13 Cheap Cream Puff Paste Let % quart water with % pound lard come to a boil on a quick fire, mix into this on the fire, % pound flour, for one minute, take off the fire and mix into this the amount of whole eggs the dough requires, one at a time.FANCY DESSERTS 41 No. 14 Very Cheap Cream Puff Paste The same as No. 13; substitute milk for one-quarter of the eggs. No. 15 French Pastry, Sponge Dough Beat lightly, 2% pounds sugar with yolks of 25 eggs; whip the whites of 25 eggs to a stiff froth and mix all with % pound of flour and % pound of cornstarch; bake on paper in different shapes, scrape the under part hollow, fill with custard cream, double them and cover with icing; or decorate with butter cream, fruits and flowers on top. No. 16 Henry Layer Cake, Small or Large Four pounds sugar, 1 quart whites of eggs, beaten lightly; 2 pounds very dry cake crumbs, % pound fine roasted hazelnuts; dress in rings and bake slowly on buttered and flour-dusted baking tins. No. 17 Frangipane Filling for Tarts, Cakes and Cookies Rub well y2 pound butter, y2 pound sugar with 5 eggs; mix into this 1 pound almond paste and 2 ounces flour; flavor as desired.CHAPTER 8. Meringues and Whipped Creams The following 6 recipes are for different work and will be referred to as Meringue A, B, C, D, E and F. No. 1 Meringue A One quart whites of eggs, 3% pounds sugar. To make a good stiff meringue, the following points must be observed: Have a clean copper basin, clean white of eggs (not too fresh), clean sugar, all cold; start beating slowly, beat quicker and quicker as the whites become firmer (add a little sugar from time to time); mix the sugar quickly and smoothly. No. 2 Meringue B One quart whites of eggs, 4% pounds sugar. No. 3 Meringue C One quart whites of eggs, 5% pounds sugar. No. 4 Meringue D One quart whites of eggs, 6 pounds sugar. No. 5 Meringue E One pint whites of eggs and 2% pounds sugar, beaten slowly over a slow fire, until firm. No. 6 Meringue F One quart whites of eggs, 5 pounds sugar, boil to a ball; pour the sugar into the stiff whites slowly, but beat as fast as possible, or it will not be a success; stop beating when all the sugar is in the whites; mix into this 1 pound powdered sugar, if wanted for baking.MERINGUES AND WHIPPED CREAMS 43 No. 7 Meringue Shells Prepare meringue No. 3; wet a piece of gunny sack well; stretch on a baking tin and cover with a sheet of paper; with the pastry bag, press the meringue on the paper and give it the shape of a half egg; when it is cut lengthwise, sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake in cold oven; when the top is dry and baked remove from the oven, remove the soft meringue, put on a baking tin upside down and return to the oven till dry; keep in dry place for use, to be filled with whipped cream or ice cream. No. 8 Meringue Pyramid On a buttered and dusted baking tin, mark circles from one inch in diameter to 6 to 12 inches, according to the height of the pyramid wanted; press with pastry bag, meringue D on the circles, in fancy shapes; make the circles % inch larger, gradually; bake in a slow oven until well done and keep dry for further use; to be filled with whipped cream, between the rings; put a fancy ornament on top and a fancy paper underneath. No. 9 Remarks about Meringues From meringue No. 4 all kinds and shapes of fancy kisses can be made; this meringue is only used when a solid cake is wanted. It takes considerable practice to produce good results with the pastry bag. No. 10 For Kisses and Fancy Meringues Add to meringue No. 5, % pounds powdered sugar; to meringue No. 6, iy2 pounds powdered sugar. These meringues have a nice, creamy taste and a very smooth appearance; the number of fancy shapes and forms that can be made out of this mixture runs into hundreds; all kinds of colors and flavors can be added. No. 11 Whipped Cream Put a pint of sweet cream into a basin; in hot weather keep on ice; beat the cream with egg whip, slowly to a firm froth; sweeten with powdered sugar and flavor with a little vanilla.44 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 12 Cream Bavariose a la Vanilla In a pint of whipped cream, add 6 sheets melted gelatine and 3 ounces powdered sugar; put in clean form and keep on ice until ready to be used; decorate with candied fruit or whipped cream and serve. Quick work is necessary to make these creams successfully. No. 13 Cream Bavariose Raspberry The same as the vanilla cream, substitute raspberries for vanilla, color dark red. No. 14 Cream Bavariose Strawberry The same as the vanilla cream; substitute crushed and strained strawberries for vanilla; color red. No. 15 Bavarian Cream—Coffee The same as the vanilla cream; substitute coffee extract for vanilla, coffee color. No. 16 Bavarian Cream—Hazelnut The same as the vanilla cream; substitute roasted and very fine crushed hazelnuts for vanilla. No. 17 Bavarian Cream,-!—Chocolate The same as the vanilla cream, but add 2 ounces powdered chocolate mixed with the sugar. No. 18 Creme Bavariose aux Macaroons The same as the vanilla cream; substitute bitter macaroon pieces for vanilla. No. 19 Creme Bavariose au Pistachio The same as the vanilla cream; substitute pistachio for vanilla; color green.MERINGUES AND WHIPPED CREAMS 45 No. 20 Whipped Cream Cake Whipped cream can be made into a great variety of cakes, with sponge cake or meringue layers ; the following are some examples : No. 21 Champignons or Mushrooms Dress on a buttered and floured baking pan, a stiff meringue, No. 4, in pyramid shape (standing up); bake this in a cold oven quite dry; on another pan put a wet cloth of single gunny sack; put a paper over this and dress the same amount of meringue, in the shape of a half egg; dust with cinnamon; bake in the same oven and when the tops are baked hard, remove and put on top of the pyramid quickly or remove the soft meringue; let it get cold, fill with whipped cream and put them then together; these will resemble mushrooms in shape. No. 22 BZanc-Afange One and one-half ounces gelatine, I quart water, 6 ounces sweet almonds, 2 ounces bitter almonds, 8 ounces sugar; pound the almonds and sugar very fine with a little of the water; put the gelatine in the rest of the water for 20 minutes; put the whole on the fire, let it come to a boil, remove and strain; pour in pudding dish or fancy mold; let it cool on ice; decorate with candied fruit and serve with vanilla sauce if desired.CHAPTER 9. Jellies No. 1 Strawberry Jelly One pint strawberries, crushed very fine, the juice of 2 lemons, 8 ounces sugar, 2 ounces gelatine and water to make I1/¿ quarts; proceed the same as for blanc-mange. No. 2 Raspberry Jelly The same as strawberry jelly; substitute raspberries for strawberries. No. 3 Peach Jelly The same as strawberry jelly; substitute peaches for strawberries. No. 4 Apricot Jelly The same as strawberry; substitute apricots for strawberries. No. 5 Pineapple Jelly The same as strawberry jelly; substitute pineapple for strawberries. No. 6 Orange Jelly The same as strawberry jelly; substitute orange juice for strawberries. No. 7 Lemon Jelly The same as strawberry jelly; substitute lemon juice for strawberries. No. 8 Spice Jelly One quart water, % pound sugar, 2 ounces gelatine, grating and juice of 1 lemon, 1 bay leaf, 6 cloves, piece of cinnamon stick, a little nutmeg, ounce ginger root, whipped whites of 2 eggs; mix the wholeJELLIES 47 and let stand for 15 minutes, then let it come to a boil and strain; proceed the same as the foregoing; add a little burnt sugar and any color desired. No. 9 Mixed or Clear Jelly Clear jelly looks nice mixed with different colored candied fruits, or fresh fruits; jelly and Bavarian cream, half and half, makes a nice mixture. No. 10 Charlotte Russe Line a paper cup with lady fingers and fill with whipped cream; vanilla flavor. No. 11 Charlotte in Variety Can be made with any flavor or color; crushed macaroons; roasted and crushed hazelnuts; lady fingers soaked in orange juice, etc.CHAPTER 10. Breakfast Cakes No. 1 Griddle Cakes—Buckwheat Two pints milk, buckwheat flour, lumps of butter, 2 eggs, sugar, salt and baking powder. No. 2 Wheat Cakes Two pints milk, wheat flour, 2 eggs, butter, sugar, salt and baking powder. No. 3 Rice Cakes Add a little boiled rice to the wheat cake mixture. No. 4 Indian Cakes Add boiled cornmeal to the wheat cake mixture. No. 5 Batter for all Kinds of Frying One pint milk, 1 pound flour, 1 egg, a little salt, a little sugar and butter; mix well for 10 minutes; add a little baking powder. No. 6 French Pancakes Two cups wheat flour, 3 eggs, 1 ounce powdered sugar, a little salt, % pint milk; beat extra well; these pancakes are made about 5 inches in diameter; serve with powdered sugar, any kind of syrup or jelly. No. 7 German Pancakes Prepare the same as for French pancakes; bake the cakes 1 foot in diameter, on the stove (all the dough at once), for 3 minutes, then remove it to the hot oven for 7 minutes; slide it carefully on a hot plate; serve with 6 pieces of lemon. No. 8 German Pancakes with Apples Prepare the same as for French pancakes; bake for 2 minutes, then spread a stiff apple sauce over it; bake for 7 minutes in a hotBREAKFAST CAKES 49 oven; slide it carefully on a plate, sift plenty of powdered sugar over it and serve with 4 pieces of lemon. No. 9 Pancake Flour For quick work in hotel or restaurant, have ready in a box or tin the following mixture: 10 pounds flour, 1 pound sugar, 4 ounces salt and % pound baking powder; mix this extra well and put aside. No. 10 Self-Rising Flour When mixing wheat cakes, take 1 quart milk, 2 eggs; mix well, then mix into batter with the above; self-rising flour and your dough is ready; a lump of butter will improve the cake considerably. No. 11 Batter for Fritters Two cups of flour, 3 eggs, a little salt, 1 pint of milk, more or less; beat extra well, add a little baking powder. Fritters are made with apples, peaches, apricots, raisins, currants, citron or ginger; cover fruit with the batter and cook in deep lard or vegetable oil. No. 12 Fritters Souffle a la Vanilla Prepare a batter as for ordinary fritters, but a little more stiff, and put in 5 yolks in place of whole eggs; beat the whites to a stiff froth and mix carefully; cook in deep fat; sift powdered sugar over them and serve. No. 13 Waffles A Put in a vessel, 1 ounce powdered sugar, 1 quart milk, 1 pound flour, 3 eggs, 3 ounces melted butter; beat well with spatula for 15 minutes and bake in greased waffle iron; serve with powdered sugar, syrup or fruit sauce. No. 14 Waffles B Sift together 2 cups flour, a little salt, a teaspoonful of baking powder; mix with 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of butter, ll/2 CUPS milk (more or less) ; bake in greased waffle iron; serve with syrup or fruit sauce.CHAPTER 11. Layer and Loaf Cakes No. 1 Pound, or Loaf Cake One pound butter with very little salt, 1 pound sugar; rub this in a wooden bowl until very creamy; rub into this, one by one, 10 eggs, very carefully; mix into this 1 pound flour, very carefully; have the paste smooth; bake in paper-lined molds, in moderate oven; vanilla flavor. No. 2 Citron Cake Add to the pound cake mixture, iy2 pounds citron, sliced very thin. No. 3 Raisin Cake Add to the pound cake mixture, 1% pounds raisins, previously softened for an hour or so with a sprinkle of water. No. 4 Nut Cake Add to the pound cake mixture, 1% pounds walnuts or pecans nuts, broken. No. 5 Fruit Cake Add to the pound cake mixture, 2% pounds mixed fruit, more or less, consisting of raisins, currants and citron. No. 6 Wedding Cake Add to the pound cake mixture, 3 pounds mixed fruit, consisting of raisins, currants, citron, lemon peel, orange peel, candied ginger, peeled and chopped almonds, cinnamon and mixed spices; bake in moderate oven and when cold decorate with white of egg icing, very fancy. No. 7 Black Fruit Cake Add to the pound cake mixture, 3 pounds mixed fruits, cinnamon, and mixed spices, and a little black sugar for coloring.LAYER AND LOAF CAKES 51 No. 7A Soft Gingerbread Rub % cup brown sugar with 2 eggs and 1/3 cup lard, a little salt and a little melted cocoa; when creamy mix into this carefully, cup Karo syrup, % cup sour milk, 1 teaspoonful soda, then 2 cups flour mixed with a teaspoonful of baking powder and a cup of raisins; bake in square paper-lined molds, in moderate oven. No. 8 Angel Cake Beat 1% cups sugar into whites of 11 eggs to a stiff froth with a little vanilla flavor; mix into this 1 cup flour mixed with 1 teaspoonful baking powder; bake in dry molds in moderate oven; ice with glacé royale or fondant. No. 9 Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes and Lady Fingers (A) Beat 1 pound sugar for 20 minutes with yolks of 14 eggs, in a wooden bowl with a whip; mix into this the whites of 14 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and 1 pound flour; add a little vanilla flavor or lemon gratings. No. 10 Sponge Cake The same as the foregoing. No. 11 Mixture for Layer or Loaf cakes and Lady Fingers (B) One pound sugar, 13 eggs beaten in, in copper kettle on a very slow fire, until light, mix into this 1 pound flour and a little vanilla flavor or lemon gratings. No. 12 Cake Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes (C) One pound sugar, 14 eggs beaten into a light mixture, on a slow fire; mix into this 1 pound flour, a little vanilla flavor or lemon gratings, after the flour; have ready mixed, % pound butter and % pound almond paste, very soft but not melted; mix well the whole, carefully and quickly. No. 13 Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes and Lady Fingers (D) One pound sugar, yolks of 16 eggs, beaten very light in a wooden bowl with a whip ; then mix all together ; 1 pound flour and the whites of the 16 eggs, beaten first into a stiff froth; add vanilla flavor or lemon gratings.52 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 14 Cake Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes (E) One pound sugar, % pound butter; rub well with 8 eggs with the hands; mix into this 1 pint milk, I14 pounds flour mixed with 1 teaspoonful baking powder; flavor as desired. No. 14A Devil’s Food Two ounces chocolate boiled in a cup of water (let it get cold), 2 cups brown sugar, a little salt, % CUP butter or fat, a little vanilla, % cup sour milk mixed with 1^2 teaspoonfuls soda, 2% CUPS flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder; mix as any layer cake. No. 15 Layer, or Angel Food Cake Mixture Sift together on a paper, % pound flour, 2 ounces cornstarch, % pound powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of baking powder; beat up in a copper basin, whites of 10 eggs; mix the whole well and bake in moderate oven in dry molds; let cool in molds upside-down; ice with fondant. No. 16 Bread Torte Add to layer cake mixture No. 4 a little powdered chocolate and a little allspice; bake in three layers the size wanted; fill with custard cream, butter cream or marmalade, as desired; ice them as desired and decorate with candied fruits, glacé royale or ornamenting icing. No. 17 Assorted Torte Lemon, citron, mocha, chocolate, vanilla, orange, almonds, pistachio ; all these tortes are made with layers, filled with cream, marmalade or jelly, and iced and decorated as desired. No. 18 Lady Cake One pound sugar, % pound butter, a very little milk, 1 pint whites of egg froth, 1 pound flour mixed with a little baking powder; rub the sugar and butter the same as for pound cake, then add the froth and flour; mix smoothly and quickly, and bake in paper-lined, or buttered and flour dusted molds, in moderate oven ; almond flavor.CHAPTER 12. Small Cakes No. 1 Almond Macaroons One pound almond paste, 1 pound sugar, 1 ounce fine cocoanut, whites of eggs to make it a nice, workable mixture (the cocoanut is added to keep the macaroons moist); moisten the macaroons before baking; bake on paper in moderate oven. No. 2 Bitter Macaroons The same as above mixture; add 2 ounces finely ground bitter almonds and 2 extra ounces of sugar. No. 3 Lady Fingers Dress sponge cake mixture, the size of a finger, on paper; sprinkle with powdered sugar; bake in moderate oven. No. 4 Pond Lily Cakes Bake sponge cakes the size of a half dollar; after baking double, with jelly between, and dust with powdered sugar. No. 5 Silver Cake The same as pond lily cakes, but iced with water icing in place of dusting with powdered sugar. No. 6 Queen Cake The same as pond lily cakes, but in place of powdered sugar, boil grape jelly with plenty of sugar and red color; brush this hot over the cakes and when cold ice with water icing.54 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 7 Lady Cookies Pound cake mixture, the size of a half dollar; dress and bake on buttered and flour-dusted baking tin, in moderate oven. No. 8 Duchess Cookies The same as lady cookies, covered with fondant icing. No. 9 Chocolate Macaroons Add to the macaroon mixture (see No. 1) a little powdered chocolate and sugar; sprinkle with Nonpareille. No. 10 Macaroons Souffle Add to the macaroon mixture (see No. 1), % pound more powdered sugar, and have the paste quite soft and warm it on the fire; dress on paper, let it dry until it has a dry top, cup the crust with a knife and bake in a soft oven. No. 11 Petit Fourre, or Small Fancy Cakes One pound almond paste, I1/¿ pounds powdered sugar, white of egg; work nice and smooth and dress, with star tube on paper, any fancy shape desired, let dry and bake in hot oven; brush soft gum arabic over the cakes with a soft brush, when still very hot. Many shapes and forms can be made out of this paste; by having the paste more stiff these shapes can be made by hand, as, for instance: hazelnuts, coxcombs, crescents, squares (filled with jelly), swallowtails and many others. No. 12 Medallions One pint whites of eggs beaten very stiff, 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound very dry cake crumbs; dress oval shape on buttered and floured baking pans; cover with shredded cocoanut; fill in center with frangipane, when baked; ice center with water icing. No. 13 Wafers A Mix 1 pound butter with 1 pound sugar, 12 eggs, 20 ounces flour, a little baking powder; mix gently and flavor as desired; bake in hot waffle irons.SMALL CAKES 55 No. 14 Wafers B Mix 3 pounds flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 pounds butter, 1 pound sugar and 5 eggs; mix very gently; flavor as desired; bake in hot waffle irons. No. 15 Speculaas A Mix 2 pounds brown sugar with 1 pound butter, 3 pounds flour, nutmeg, mixed spices, cinnamon, a little potash cream and a little water; press in wooden form, cut smooth and bake on greased baking pans in moderate oven. No. 16 Speculaas B Two pounds brown sugar, 1 pound butter, % pound chopped almonds, l/2 pound fine cut citron, spices and cinnamon, a little potash, 3 pounds flour, a little water; work carefully into dough with hands; bake in cookie forms. No. 17 Royal Cookies The same as lady cookies; vanilla fondant icing and dipped in chopped walnuts. No. 18 Chocolate Cookies The same as lady cookies; iced with chocolate fondant icing. No. 19 Almond Cookies The same as lady cookies; cover with chopped almonds and dust with powdered sugar and bake in moderate oven. No. 20 Plain Jumbles One pound butter, 1 pound sugar, gratings of 1 lemon, 4 eggs; rub together; mix 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder with 2 pounds flour; roll to the thickness and size of a dollar; wash with egg wash; put sugar over them and bake in moderate oven.56 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 21 Cinnamon Cookies The same as plain jumbles; substitute cinnamon for lemon. Cookies can be made any shape desired, half-moon, oval, round, etc. No. 22 Holland Cookies Take jumble dough, cut to size and thickness of a dollar, wash with egg wash and spread the following on top: mix sliced almonds with a little powdered sugar and whites of egg, so it holds together; bake in moderate oven. No. 23 Scotch Cookies One pound flour, % pound butter, a little baking powder, 5 ounces sugar; work sugar and butter on table and add flour and a little caraway seed; roll and cut in dollar size cakes and bake in moderate oven. No. 24 Ginger Snaps One-half pound lard, pound butter, 1 pound sugar, 1 pint molasses, 3 tablespoonfuls ginger, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, a few cloves, 2 pounds flour, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder; mix to a paste, roll and cut in small cakes and bake in moderate oven. No. 25 Edenkabers Two eggs, 1 cup sugar, pound almonds, pounded to a paste (with water), % pound chopped citron, ^4 pound chopped candied lemon peel, 2 tablespoonfuls honey, 2 cups flour, I/¿ teaspoonful baking powder; mix to a paste, roll and cut in small cakes and bake in moderate oven. No. 26 Spice Drops Yolks of 3 eggs, % CUP of butter, 1 cup molasses, y2 CUP milk, 3 cups flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, a little salt; spices to taste; drop on buttered and flour dusted baking tins; bake in hot oven. No. 27 Walnut Wafers One-half pound broken walnuts, % pound brown sugar, 2 level tablespoonfuls flour, )4 teaspoonful baking powder, a little salt, 2 eggs; drop small tablespoonfuls on buttered pans; bake in quick oven.SMALL CAKES 57 No. 28 Soft Ginger Bread One cup molasses, % cup sugar, % cup butter, % cup milk, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful ginger, a little allspice, 2 cups flour, 1% teaspoonfuls baking powder; bake in little pans, in moderate oven. No. 29 Jumbles One cup butter, 1 cup sugar, 4 eggs, 2 cups flour, a little baking powder; rub together the butter and sugar; add eggs; work the flour with the baking powder into this very carefully (never work it any more than is absolutely necessary, after the flour is in the dough). The experienced pastry baker can make a great many varieties out of this.CHAPTER 13. Fillings and Icings for Cookies and Cakes No. 1 Hazelnut Paste for Cookies Roast hazelnuts quite brown, put into a sieve and rub shells off; pound them with half the amount of sugar; mix with a little peanut butter and white of egg, to a medium paste; this filling is used between jumble cookies, or over them, and then iced with water icing. No. 2 Almond Paste Filling for Cookies One pound almonds, % pound bitter almonds, 1 pound sugar, ^4 pound peanut butter and whites of eggs; to be used the same as hazelnut paste. No. 3 Chocolate Filling for Cookies Melted chocolate mixed with crushed macaroons and whites of egg. No. 4 Different Varieties of Fillings Take 1 quart of apricots, rub through sieve and mix with 2 pounds cane sugar; boil until firm; this has to be stirred, as it will burn quickly; in this can be mixed a number of things, such as chopped candied orange or lemon peel, strawberry or raspberry jam, and will make a fine paste for cookie filling; cooked in a double boiler will save much work. No. 5 Fig Filling Cook in double boiler 1 pound dry figs, 2 ounces sugar, juice of 1 lemon; add water to make a firm paste and rub through a sieve. No. 6 Prune Filling The same as the fig filling; substitute prunes for figs. No. 7 Almond Icing Pound 1 pound almonds with 1A pound powdered sugar and whites of 3 eggs; add 2 pounds powdered sugar and 10 drops extract of rose; add water.FILLINGS AND ICINGS 59 No. 8 Bitter Almond Icing Pound % pound sweet almonds, 1/^ pound bitter almonds, % pound powdered sugar and whites of 3 eggs; add 2 pounds powdered sugar and water. No. 9 Water Icing Mix powdered sugar and water thick enough to spread; add any flavor desired. No. 10 Fondant Icing Twelve pounds sugar, 1 gallon water, 1 pound glucose or Karo syrup; let boil to a ball; work this with a spatula on a marble table (when nearly cold) until it is stiff; any and all colors and flavors can be added. This is the most satisfactory icing there is; add water or syrup to make the right substance when used; have it blood-warm and no more.CHAPTER 14. Hot Biscuits, Cakes and Muffins for Breakfast The following four biscuit recipes will be ample for all purposes: No. 1 Royal Biscuits One quart flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 tablespoonful lard; mix and add 1 pint milk and work this into dough, but don’t work it more than absolutely necessary; cut into biscuits and bake in warm oven. No. 2 Egg Biscuits Add 1 egg and 1 tablespoonful lard more, otherwise the same as royal biscuits. No. 3 French Biscuits Mix 1^4 quarts flour, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 4 ounces butter; add 1 pint milk; beat with 3 eggs and work into dough; proceed as above. No. 4 Breakfast Biscuits One quart milk, 4 ounces melted butter, a little salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, flour enough to make a stiff batter; drop in heated buttered tins with a spoon and bake in hot oven. Never work dough or batter more than is necessary when baking powder is used. Any and all kinds of biscuits can be made out of these recipes, such as, for instance: raisins, add raisins; oatmeal, half and half; nuts, add nuts; mixed fruit, add fruit; meat, layers of meat; rice, add boiled rice; rye, half and half. No. 5 English Muffins One pound flour, 1 ounce sugar, a little salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder; mix well; add milk enough to make a stiff batter; bake in muffin rings, on griddle; when baked, slice in half; toast and butter and serve at once.HOT BISCUITS, CAKES AND MUFFINS 61 No. 6 Royal Muffins One pound flour, a little salt, 2 ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder; mix; add 6 eggs and milk enough to make a stiff batter; bake in buttered muffin tins in a quick oven. No. 7 Gems One pound flour, a little salt, 2 ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder; mix; add 6 eggs and enough milk to make a stiff batter; bake in buttered gem pans in hot oven. No. 8 Oatmeal Muffins The same as royal muffins; oatmeal and flour, half and half; bake in muffin tins in hot oven. No. 9 Butter Cake Fill with royal muffin dough, rings 3% inches in diameter and % inch high, a little better than half-full; cover with a flat tin, a little larger than the rings, and bake in quick oven; cut in half and serve with butter spread thick on them. No. 10 Graham Muffins The same as royal muffin dough; substituting graham flour for wheat; bake in muffin tins in hot oven. No. 11 Potato Muffins Add a cup of mashed potatoes to the royal muffin dough and a little more baking powder; bake in muffin tins in warm oven. No. 12 Cornmeal Muffins Add a cup of thick cornmeal mush and a little baking powder, to the royal muffin dough, and bake in muffin tins in warm oven.62 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 13 Crumpets One and one-half pints flour, a little salt, a little sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, I egg, 1 pint rich milk; mix in the usual way and bake in rings on the griddle, on one side only; serve with plenty of butter. The experienced baker, confectioner or cook will have no need for any more mixtures, as these are proven recipes and sufficient for any hotel, bakery, restaurant or pastry shop; a good workman is always able to change recipes, one way or the other, according to the requirements of his shop. No. 14 Dutch Crullers Two eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, a little salt, 1 cup cream, a little nutmeg and flour enough to make a soft dough; roll and cut with a hole in the center; fry in hot fat. No. 15 Doughnuts A One-half cup butter, 1 cup sugar, 3 cups flour, a little baking powder, 2 eggs, 2 cups milk, a little salt, nutmeg and a little molasses; mix to a soft dough, the usual way; roll and cut with a hole in the center; fry in hot fat, lard, cottolene, oil, etc. No. 16 Doughnuts B Six eggs, % pound sugar, 6 ounces butter, a little salt and nutmeg; rub well; add 1 quart milk and 3 pounds flour, with baking powder; finish as A. No. 17 German Doughnuts Three eggs, 1 cup sugar, a little salt, 13/2 pints milk, nutmeg, 4 ounces butter; add flour mixed with baking powder to make a soft dough; finish as A.CHAPTER 15. Ice Creams No. 1 French Vanilla Ice Cream Put in a vessel, yolks of 12 eggs, % pound sugar and a split vanilla bean; mix well; add 1 pint boiling milk, put on fire and let it thicken (but be careful not to let it boil); remove and mix with 1 pint sweet cream; strain through a sieve into the freezer; French ice cream is worked well and is always heavy. No. 2 French Chocolate Ice Cream First boil into the milk 2 ounces cocoa with an extra ounce sugar; then proceed the same as for vanilla ice cream. No. 3 French Coffee Ice Cream Add extract of coffee and a little burnt sugar and proceed the same as for vanilla ice cream. No. 4 French Strawberry Ice Cream Prepare the same as for vanilla ice cream; add 1 pint strained strawberries with a little powdered sugar and strawberry color. No. 5 French Raspberry Ice Cream The same as strawberry; substituting pineapple for strawberries. No. 6 French Peach Ice Cream The same as strawberry; substituting peaches for strawberries. No. 7 French Pineapple Ice Cream The same as strawberry; substituting pineapple for strawberries.64 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 French Pistachio Ice Cream Add 2 ounces roasted and pounded pistachio nuts with green color and proceed the same as for vanilla ice cream. No. 9 French Hazelnut Ice Cream Add 4 ounces roasted and pounded hazelnuts, and proceed the same as for vanilla ice cream. No. 10 American Ice Cream Take 1 quart pure cream, % pound powdered sugar; prepare the flavoring the same as for French ice cream. This cream does not have to be cooked and is much lighter than French ice cream. No. 11 Lemon Water Ice One quart water, % pound powdered sugar, the gratings of 1 lemon and the juice of 3 lemons; boil the whole; test with the syrup weight (22 degrees), add more water or sugar, if necessary, and proceed as for ice cream. No. 12 Water Ice All water ice is made the same way as lemon water ice and flavored the same as ice cream. No. 13 Biscuit Glacé à la Vanilla Put yolks of 6 eggs into a basin; beat into this the same flavor as for vanilla ice cream, 4 ounces powdered sugar and % ounce gelatine (melted in water the usual way) ; mix into this 11/2 pints whipped cream; fill the mixture into paper or wafer cups; cover with a layer of lemon water ice and decorate with candied fruits and let freeze. No. 14 Biscuit Glacé à la Orange The same as vanilla biscuit; orange flavor and raspberry water ice cover; decorate with small pieces of almonds.ICE CREAMS 65 No. 15 Biscuit Glacé au Chocolate Prepare the same; flavor as for chocolate ice cream and proceed the same as for biscuit glacé à la vanilla; sprinkle with small pieces pistachio. No. 16 Biscuit Glacé Pineapple Prepare pineapple as for pineapple ice cream and proceed as you would for biscuit à la vanilla; cover with strawberry water ice and decorate with candied fruits. No. 17 Biscuit Glacé Macaroons Proceed as for biscuit à la vanilla; mix with macaroon crumbs and cover the top with same. No. 18 Biscuit Glacé Hazelnuts Proceed the same as for biscuit à la vanilla; mix with roasted and crushed hazelnuts and cover top with same. No. 19 Biscuit Glacé Café The same as biscuit à la vanilla, but substitute coffee extract and burnt sugar for vanilla; sprinkle top with almond pieces. No. 20 Biscuit Glace Pistachio The same as biscuit a la vanilla, but substitute roasted and finely crushed pistachio nuts; sprinkle top with same. No. 21 Biscuit Glacé A good many biscuit glacé were made with rum, kirsch, and other liquors, but that was in the good old times, so make as your fancy may direct. No. 22 Punches or Cordials Punch cups or cordials, were made of water, ice and alcoholic liquors, but that was in the good old times, so make as your fancy may direct.66 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 23 Cabinet Pudding—Frozen Put malaga raisins in very thin syrup, for half a day; mix them (not the syrup) with pieces of sponge cake, through a biscuit glacé preparation; fill the ice cream molds and let freeze. No. 24 Frozen Plum Pudding Put malaga raisins and small pieces of candied fruits in a thin syrup for half a day; mix in a chocolate biscuit glacé preparation; put in ice cream molds and freeze. No. 25 Frozen Nesselrode Pudding A biscuit glacé preparation mixed with soaked pieces of sponge cake, candied fruits and marone glacé; put in ice cream molds and let freeze. No. 26 Macaroon Ice Cream Mix vanilla ice cream with pieces of macaroons which have been moistened with a thin syrup. No. 27 Neapolitan Ice Cream Put in ice cream mold, 3 layers: vanilla, pistachio and raspberry ice cream and let freeze. No. 28 Tutti-Frutti Put into brick ice cream mold, 3 layers: strawberry ice cream, lemon water ice and vanilla ice cream, and 2 layers chopped, candied fruits, between the water ice and ice cream; let it freeze. No. 29 Plombierre Freeze an ice cream in brick very hard; take out of mold and place end-up on table, and, with a hot knife, cut into pyramid shape and decorate with whipped cream and freeze; any flavor or color. No. 30 Parfait au Café The same as biscuit au café, but very strong.ICE CREAMS 67 No. 31 Orange Glacé Remove inside of oranges, but keep peels whole (with the exception of a small part of bottom) ; let get very cold; then fill with champagne punch, without the champagne; decorate with artificial orange blossoms and leaves. No. 32 Charlotte Glacé Line a charlotte mold with lady fingers (the sides only) ; fill with the desired ice cream; let freeze, take out of mold and decorate with candied fruits and whipped cream. No. 33 Charlotte Glacé Panachées The same as for charlotte glacé, but fill with two different colored ice creams. No. 34 Charlotte Glacé Macaroons The same as for charlotte glacé; substituting macaroons for lady fingers. No. 35 Meringue Glacé Fill in with ice cream (whichever kind you desire) between two meringue shells and let them freeze. No. 36 Meringue Panachées The same as for meringue glacé; but fill with two different colored ice creams. No. 37 Sherbet Sherbets, punches, cups, jellies and cordials were all made with ice cream, fruits, water ice and liquors, but that was in ancient times, so do the best you can.CHAPTER 16. Jellies and Preserves No. 1 Currant Jelly Fifteen pounds currants; heat and mash them well; strain and add 7 pounds sugar; let boil until the jelly breaks off the spatula or spoon. No. 2 Apple Jelly Greenings or pippins are the best; cut in fourths, clean and wash well, cover with water and let boil until done; strain through clean linen or flannel, or cotton; add to 1 quart juice, 1 quart sugar; let it boil until it breaks off the spatula or spoon. This makes a clear, water-colored jelly, but it can be colored red or green. Put in square tins an inch high; this jelly is fine for decorating cakes; all jellies must be boiled on a quick fire and not disturbed more than is necessary. No. 3 Fruit Jelly Strawberry, raspberry, grape, orange or peach jellies are made the same as currant jelly, add a little apple juice if a more standing-up composition is wanted. No. 4 Apple Preserves Six pounds sour apples; peel and clean; use only sound fruit; place in sterilized jars; add to this a boiling syrup, made of 1 pound glucose or Karo syrup, 1 pound sugar and 6 cups boiling water; do not cover jars too tight; have a piece of board in bottom of steamer, place the jars on this and fill with water; let boil for 20 minutes; screw covers tight, invert to cool and store in dark place. No. 5 Apricot Preserves Six pounds apricots, % pound sugar, % pound Karo syrup, 2% cups water; cook for 15 minutes; otherwise the same as for apple preserves.JELLIES AND PRESERVES 69 No. 6 Raspberry, Strawberry, Loganberry and Blackberry Preserves Six pounds fruit, % pound sugar, % pound Karo syrup, iy2 cups water; boil for 15 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 7 Cherry Preserves—Sweet Six pounds sweet cherries, % pound sugar, % pound Karo or glucose, 3y2 cups water; boil for 15 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 8 Cherry Preserves—Sour Six pounds cherries, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound Karo syrup, 3y2 cups water; boil for 15 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 9 Currant Preserves Six pounds currants, 1^4 pounds cane sugar, 1% pounds Karo syrup, 2% cups water; boil for 15 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 10 Peach Preserves Six pounds peaches, % pound sugar, ^4 pound Karo syrup, 2,y2 cups water; boil for 15 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 11 Pear Preserves Six pounds pears, % pound sugar, % pound Karo syrup, 3y2 cups water; boil for 15 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 12 Pineapple Preserves Six pounds pineapples, % pound sugar, % pound Karo syrup, 3y2 cups water; boil for 20 minutes, the same as for apple preserves. No. 13 Prune Preserves Six pounds prunes, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound Karo, 2 cups water; boil for 30 minutes, the same as for apple preserves.70 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 14 Quince Preserves Six pounds quinces, 1 pound cane sugar, 1 pound Karo syrup, 7 cups water; boil for 30 minutes; otherwise the same as for apple preserves. No. 15 Fruit Jellies Made with Gelatine One-half pound powdered sugar, lemon juice, 1 quart water and crushed strawberries (or any other fruit), 2 ounces gelatine; have it boil just a minute or two, ladle into molds and let cool; these jellies are made more by taste than by measure. No. 16 Jams Strawberry, raspberry, loganberry, apricot, peach, plum, cherry, cranberry, blackberry, grape, sour apple, currant, pineapple; these fruits are cooked with half their weight of cane sugar, till rich and thick; put in tumblers, or small jars, and seal. No. 17 Candied Fruits Have very firm cherries, take out the stones, handle very carefully; let them boil for 5 minutes in plenty of thick syrup (made from cane sugar); place in jars for 24 hours; pour off the syrup, let boil for 15 minutes, put on the cherries, let them come to a boil and let stand for 24 hours more; repeat this 5 times; the syrup must be thick when put away. No. 18 Candied Fruits Hard fruits, such as pears, pineapples, muskmelons, watermelons, orange rinds, also angelique, must be boiled tender in water first; otherwise the same as for cherries.CHAPTER 17. Syrups, Fondant and Candies No. 1 Boiling of Syrup Boil sugar, water and glucose into syrup; density changes rapidly and must be watched carefully, and the sides of the copper kettle washed from time to time; a sugar thermometer is very useful. No. 2 Remarks Soft balls, 240 degrees F.; hard balls 248 degrees F. No. 3 Boiled Frosting Three-fourths cup sugar, % cup boiling water; boil to 240° F.; beat whites of 2 eggs, pour the sugar in a fine stream into the whites, beating all the time. No. 4 Remarks Regarding the Boiling of Frosting There must not be any grains in the confection, smoothness will be gotten by letting the sugar melt before placing on the fire; wash down with wet fingers the inside of the kettle repeatedly; a cover over the kettle will help to prevent grains. No. 5 Salted Almonds Have fresh blanched almonds and cook them with sweet butter, or sweet oil, to a golden brown, and sprinkle with salt. No. 6 Candy Making Caramels or hard candy: boil 2 pounds cane sugar, 1 cup of Karo syrup (or a lump of glucose the size of an egg), % pint water; boil in copper kettle until hard and breaks easy; all hard candies are made of this.72 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 7 Fondant A Two pounds cane sugar, a lump of glucose or a cup of Karo syrup, 4 ounces sweet butter, sweet cream or uncolored Nucoa; boil to 242° F., let cool and work into cream. No. 8 Fondant B Two pounds cane sugar, a lump of glucose, 1^2 cups water, boil to 242° F. ; let cool and work into cream. No. 9 Remarks All fine candies are made of fondant, coated with chocolate coating, which can be procured from any wholesale confectioners’ supply house. No. 10 Mixtures for Candies The following are the usual mixtures: pounded or chopped almonds (bleached and roasted), hazelnuts, candied fruits, walnuts, pecans, pine, or Brazil nuts, maroon glacé, boiled fruits. No. 11 Extracts for Candies Work fondant with the following extracts: vanilla, peppermint, cinnamon, clove (very little), lemon, orange, strawberry, raspberry, wintergreen, etc. ; let it get very cool and roll into balls the size to suit the fancy; cover with chocolate coating; put into fancy paper cups. No. 12 Caramels Boil 3 pounds sugar with y2 pint Karo syrup or a lump of glucose, 1 pint milk, 4 ounces sweet butter; add 1 teaspoonful vanilla to hard ball; pour on marble and cut into squares. No. 13 Remarks About Caramels Caramels, just like fondants, can be made with all flavors and nuts. No. 14 Glacéd Nuts and Fruits Have fruits and nuts very dry; dip in hard boiled sugar and lay on oiled tin, paper or marble.SYRUPS, FONDANT AND CANDIES 73 No. 15 Remarks about Coating Chocolate coating must not be more than blood warm. No. 16 Remarks A double boiler helps to keep sugar and chocolate warm. No. 17 Nougat Melt powdered sugar on a soft fire; mix sliced almonds, have them dry; the experienced confectioner will make all kinds of ornaments out of this; as, for instance: baskets, crowns, loving cups, pots, pans, turbans, pyramids, arabise horn of plenty, etc.; these ornaments put up or intermixed with hard boiled sugar, pulled into strips, ribbons, or worked into flowers, make beautiful table ornaments. No. 18 Italian Nougat One large cup cane sugar, good y2 CUP white corn syrup, y2 CUP water; boil to a good hard ball; beat to a stiff froth, the white of I egg; pour the boiling syrup into this white, beating constantly; when nearly cold mix into it y2 cup finely chopped nuts (any kind) ; press between two wafer papers; this makes a nice composition to cover with chocolate. No. 19 Peanut Brittle Peanut, almond, or any nut brittle, is made of brown sugar, glucose, water, a little sweet butter or sweet oil; boil hard or crisp and mix with the nuts. No. 20 Popcorn Balls Boil brown sugar with a tablespoonful or two of vinegar and water, to a crisp, and mix with hot puffy popcorn. No. 21 Taffy Boil brown sugar with a little lemon juice, glucose, a little beeswax or sweet butter, or oil, until it forms a hard ball; pull when very near cold; wrap in wax paper.74 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 22 Soufflé Make a paste of fine sugar (not granulated or powdered) and white of egg, so that it can be rolled; cover with white of egg icing and let dry before cutting; cut, with fancy cake cutter, the thickness of a double silver dollar; bake in a very soft oven on buttered and flour dusted pans. No. 23 For Christmas The above soufflé makes a nice decoration for the Christmas tree; it can be decorated very satisfactorily; a good deal of this is seen in Holland and Flanders around the holidays. No. 24 Remarks The above can be flavored and colored in any way. No. 25 Trugande, or Tragacanth Paste Procure tragacanth gum of any druggist; soak it in water for 24 hours; use a little of it in a paste made of powdered sugar and water; if you want a hard paste use more. No. 26 Lozenges These are made of powdered sugar and gum arabic, flavored with peppermint as a rule; work the sugar and gum into a dough, roll to the thickness of a double silver dollar and cut with a lozenge cutter; the more gum that is used, the harder the lozenges. No. 27 Honey Candy or Nougat Boil I pound honey and % pound sugar, melted in water, to a hard ball; beat whites of 6 eggs into a stiff froth and pour the boiling mixture into it; keep beating on a slow fire, until dry; mix with almond, pistachio and nuts; put on wafer paper and cover with same; press down with board and weight.SYRUPS, FONDANT AND CANDIES 75 No. 28 Marzipan Take 1 pound almonds (pound them extra fine), with iy2 pounds sugar and some whites of eggs; have it stiff, rub it in a copper kettle with a spatula on a very soft fire, until it becomes very tough; this is a fine paste to work into flowers, fruits, vegetables and any and all kinds of ornaments, such as candle holders for birthday cakes, etc., it requires considerable time and practice to handle it satisfactorily.CHAPTER 18. Pastries No. 1 Cat Tongues One pound sugar, % pound butter, % pound flour, whites of 12 eggs; work the same as pound cake mixture; dress on buttered baking tins the size of a lead pencil, 3 inches long, and bake in warm oven. No. 1A Cracklings, or Pretzels These are made of sweet dough No. 1; use only 1/5 of the eggs; cut size desired and roll in plenty of brown sugar; let them raise a little and bake in a warm oven. No. 2 Cracklings, or Pretzels The same as the above but without sugar; sprinkle with a very little salt. No. 3 Cracklings, or Pretzels Cut strips of left over puff paste, the size desired, wash them with egg wash and dip them in sugar and bake in soft oven.Advice and Explanations FOR THE PASTRY BAKER The seasoning of desserts cannot be accomplished by weight or measure, but must be done by taste and experience and should be studied thoroughly. Too much caraway in rye bread is disgusting, but a good many people like a little. Never have too much, or too little icing on buns or cakes, but try to have it just right. Fruits must be ripe; the flavor is lost in fruits that are over or under ripe. All things should be kept clean; fruits must be sound, well cleaned and washed thoroughly. Egg whites for whipping are better from eggs not too fresh, but if none other than fresh eggs are on hand, add a little water to the whites before commencing to whip. In whipping whites of eggs, add a little sugar from time to time; this will prevent them from granulating. Never use cornstarch in pie, if it can be done with apple sauce made of dried apples or fresh apples. Five eggs in 1 quart of milk makes a good custard; if the eggs are large never use more than 6. In decorating tarts or cakes, never have too much or too little on them; very deep colors look bad. In preparing or serving, never have the portions too big; it doesn’t look well; be careful not to serve too big buns, rolls or cakes, etc.; preserve a happy medium. In freezing ice cream, avoid having too much salt on the ice; it does not help the freezing. Almonds must never be used with the skins on. The ambitious workman can improve himself considerably, by practicing with the dressing bag or ornamenting tube. Always have your baking pans, molds or forms ready before starting to make the cake, pie or pudding. In serving in hotels, restaurants or in the home, always serve on napkin when possible; this includes ice cream. Always have your sauces and creams smooth and velvety.76B THE CHEF DE CUISINE Never cook anything hard, slow cooking is a hundred per cent better. See to it that your bake oven is always right: always bake the goods well-done. Whatever you serve hot, have it good and hot ; whatever you serve cold have it good and cold. In baking, always have a light color, a dark one doesn’t look well. Preserve clean fresh eggs in water glass, in a cool place; they are better for baking than fresh ones. Ice cream must be smooth and velvety, and at the same time stiff. Jellies, creams, biscuit glacé, frozen puddings, etc., must be firm but not too stiff. Too much sugar, or salt, in the yeast-dough, prevents the yeast from working properly ; not enough salt or sugar makes the article dry and coarse. Mousse and parfaits, are simply an ice cream or water ice in a soft or foamy state, served in cups. Hard-boiled sugar can be shaped in almost any form desired, as solid columns, twisted into a basket; made into flowers, fruits, spun into birds nests and so on. Mix coating chocolate with powdered sugar to have it harder; flatten it on clean tins the size and thickness necessary; cut the form you need before it is cold; put them together with chocolate coating and let harden; beautiful arches of triumph, Dutch windmills, Swiss houses and churches, etc., can be made of this; it looks well decorated with white or yellow ornamenting-icing inter-mixed with chocolate decorations. Tragacanth, or better still, gum arabic, mixed with powdered sugar and a little cornstarch and a very little blue color, can be worked into the same ornaments as chocolate; it has to dry until hard; put the pieces together with glacé royal (ornamenting icing) and decorate in white. Nougat is powdered sugar melted to a golden color, mixed with very dry slices of almonds; this can be pressed into forms, or rolled to the thickness desired and cut, from paper or tin patterns, the pieces you need; put together with hard-boiled sugar and decorate as piece suggests. Spun-sugar is used a great deal in Holland and Belgium; it is made as follows: Tie together 3 or 4 large forks, dip them in hard-boiled sugar and swing them quickly back and forth, over a large knife; the threads thus produced are fine for ice cream or cake decorations. By all means use cane sugar and glucose for boiling; it will not last very long in a damp temperature, but will on ice cream, in a frozen state.ADVICE AND EXPLANATIONS 76C Almond Cake—Loaf cake with almond flavor and icing. Jelly Cake—Jelly layer cake. Jelly Roll—Layer cake in roll form, with jelly. Marshmallow—Meringue No. 6, stiffened with gum arabic. Wine Cake—Common loaf pound cake with icing. Spice Drops—Common pound cake with spices, drop on pan and bake. Strudel Cake—Yeast-dough with plenty of butter, sugar and fruit rolled into it and baked on pans. Bath Buns—A plain round roll of sweet-dough (D). Tea Cake—Common pound-cake, baked in flat squares and cut in squares. Sand Tarts—Common pound-cake, baked in flat squares and iced. Marble Cake—Silver cake in three colors: red, chocolate and white. Aniseed Cake—Jumble dough cookies with aniseed. Washington Cake—Layer cake with meringue or whipped cream. White Mountain Cake—Layer cake with meringue and cocoanut. Apple Jelly Cake—Layer cake with apple jelly and dusted with powdered sugar. Banana Cake—Layer cake with banana and jello icing. Banana Cake—Layer cake with banana and yellow icing. Chocolate Layer Cake—Chocolate cream and icing decorated with whole almonds. Cup Cake—Loaf cake mixture baked in cups, sugar tops. Hazelnut Cake—Loaf cake mixture, baked in muffin tins; white icing and roasted hazelnuts. Common Pound-cake—One and one-half cups sugar, one cup butter, six eggs, one pint flour, baking powder and a little milk; flavor as desired. Apple Shortcake—Bake clean apple pieces with butter, sugar, cinnamon and a little water, in covered pan till done, and proceed as Blackberry Shortcake—Proceed as for strawberry shortcake. Albert Cake—Drop cake baked in little pans; lemon flavor and chopped candied orange peel. Butter Cups—Baked in little pans; vanilla yellow icing. Peanut Jumbles—Jumble cookies baked with chopped peanuts, powdered sugar and white of egg on top . Angel Food—The same as angel cake. Cocoanut Loaf Cake—Flat loaf cake with plenty of icing and cocoanut on top.76D THE CHEF DE CUISINE Cocoanut Layer Cake—Layer cake with meringue and cocoanut. Alaska Cake—Meringue layer cake, burned with red hot iron. Duchesse Cake—Common loaf pound-cake, baked with sugar on top. Gold Cake—Common pound-cake very yellow. Sunshine Cake—Common pound-cake very yellow. Lunch Cake—Common pound-cake. Snow Cake—Layer cake made with meringue. Cherry Shortcake—Stew the cherries with a little sugar and cornstarch and proceed as for strawberry shortcake. Peach Shortcake—Proceed as for strawberry shortcake. Banana Shortcake—Proceed as for strawberry shortcake. Canned Fruit Shortcake—Proceed as for strawberry shortcake. Huckleberry Shortcake—The same as cherry shortcake. Puff-ball—A very light doughnut. Roly-Poly—Roll in a rich dough (biscuit) currants, raisins, very fine chopped apples and brown sugar; bake in soft oven, cut and serve with fruit sauce. Floating Island—Cook meringue in boiling milk, the size of an egg; serve on thin custard sauce. Boston Brown Bread—Two cups corn-meal, 1 cup rye, 1 cup white flour, 1 cup molasses, baking powder, 2 cups milk, and salt; mix well, steam three hours, in well-greased brown bread pan. Corn Bread—One pint corn-meal, 1 pint flour, little sugar, salt, baking powder, a little lard, 2 eggs, 1% pints milk; bake in square tins; after baking cut in squares the size wanted; serve hot. Parker House Rolls—Roll of sweet-dough (D), turn-over form. Rusks—Roll from sweet-dough (D), round with rust top. Sally Lunn—A tea biscuit in square form, or cut. Cottage Pudding—A very light cabinet pudding. Hard Sauce—Crème au Beurre, or butter cream. Scotch Scones—A turn-over, made of sweet dough (D), baked on griddle, on both sides. Rice Muffins—Add a little boiled rice to the mixture. Potato Muffins—Add boiled mashed potatoes to the mixture. Rye Muffins—As the name suggests. Nut Muffins—As the name suggests. Oatmeal Muffins—As the name suggests. Graham Muffins—As the name suggests. Whole Wheat Muffins—As the name suggests.ADVICE AND EXPLANATIONS 76E Gems—The same as the muffins; have the mixture richer. Cup Cake—The same as the gems; have the mixture richer and size smaller. Drop Cakes—Are made of cup cake mixture; richer or poorer as required; drop the dough, by hand or spoon, on buttered flat tins the size wanted and bake in warm oven. Fritters—Can be made of any and all kinds of fruit. Pop-Overs—Two eggs, 1 cup milk, I cup flour, salt and sugar; beat well, bake in greased and very hot muffin tins. Syrup for Soda Fountain—Eleven pounds sugar, 1 gallon water; boil and flavor as required. Bombe Glace—A melon form lined with pistachio ice cream and filled with ice cream, water ice, biscuits, or whatever is wanted; decorated with pulled and spun sugar. Forms and Molds—The confectioner is always in need of forms of some kind or other; a good many can be manufactured by himself without much trouble, some can be carved from beech wood and some can be made with modeling clay and sulphur. For the beech wood molds, a set of wood carver’s tools come handy and is almost necessary; it takes only a little practice and is a nice pastime. The sulphur molds can be made from modeling clay, pressed on a piece of glass or marble, surrounded with a border of the clay, and then covered with the melted sulphur; these molds are used for marsipain flowers, fruits, leaves, manikins, animals and bossings, and many other things; all you need is your model. Pastry Bags—To keep a pastry bag in good order after using, wash in very hot water; then in cold; wash well both times; this way the bag will always be soft and pliable. The Making of Marsipain Flowers—These are made as follows: Roll a piece of marsipain to the thickness and size of a ten cent piece, and from this up to the thickness and size of a 25 cent piece, depending on the size of flowers you want to make; put this piece in the hollow of your hand and roll with a smooth marble, as thin as possible; then roll this piece around a bent wire and proceed with the next leaf. As you go along you bend the leaves the way they are bent in a flower. The best way is to make a dozen at a time; keep the hands dry with cornstarch; when you have them all done, brush them with vegetable color mixed with some gum arabic or gelatine. This work is seldom done in this country, as it requires too much timeILLUSTRATIONS — MISCELLANEOUS7882N0.47 848586878990919293949596979899100101102103104105106107108109110Ill11211311415 נ11611711811912012112412512612728 נWo./// 129130131132133134135136137138139140141142143144145146147148149150151152153154155156157158159160161162163164165166167168169170171172173174175176177178179180PART II Kitchen Recipes with IllustrationsKitchen Recipes CHAPTER 1. Stocks and Sauces No. 1 Roux, White or Brown Two tablespoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour; boil from 6 to 10 minutes. No. 2 White Stock Two ounces salt pork, shredded; add 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strong bouquet, strong herbs, 25 whole peppers, 9 cloves; steam for 20 minutes; add 7 ounces flour, iy2 gallons broth; let boil until reduced to one-half, and strain. No. 3 Marinade Stock for Fish or Meat Finely sliced onion, 4 lemons sliced, 3 bay leaves, 1 /2 doz. whole peppers, y2 dove, mace, parsley, a little oil, vinegar and salt. No. 4 Glacé de Viande, or Meat Glacé Boil 2 gallons strong broth, or consommé, to one-half pint. No. 5 Maitre d’Hotel Butter Butter, finely chopped parsley and nutmeg; mix well and keep cool. No. 6 Anchovy Butter Mix essence of anchovy with butter and keep cool. No. 7 Butter a la Ravigote Strong herbs, pounded; mix with essence of anchovy and butter, strain or rub through a sieve.184 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 Horseradish Butter Pound horseradish with whole white peppers and butter; rub through a sieve. No. 9 Lobster Butter Pound lobster, eggs, whole white peppers, mustard seed and butter; rub through a sieve. No. 10 Sauce Espagnole Heat 2 ounces of fat, add mirepoix, and boil with flour; add chicken broth or consommé; boil and strain. No. 11 Sauce Velouté Boil into bechamel with chicken broth: bouquet, crushed whole white peppers, mushroom broth, salt and nutmeg, and strain. No. 12 Melted, Brown or Black Butter Melted with vinegar; brown or blacken, with vinegar, the butter required. No. 13 Drawn Butter Heat 2 ounces butter with a little flour, stir; add boiling water; let it stand on the stove for 30 minutes until thick; add 2 ounces more butter, beat until white; add lemon juice and strain. No. 14 Sauce Allemande Make a béchamel, with onion, bay leaf, nutmeg, broth (chicken or plain), crushed whole white pepper and salt; after boiling beat into it butter, egg yolk, lemon juice, and strain. No. 15 Egg Sauce Sprinkle over sauce hollandaise, chopped eggs and parsley.STOCKS AND SAUCES 185 No. 16 Anchovy Sauce Sauce hollandaise with anchovy essence. No. 17 Sauce Persillade Mix oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, mustard and a little horseradish; have it all very fine. No. 18 Sauce Béarnaise Condense to nearly dry: onions, vinegar, crushed whole white peppers; let cool; mix into this yolks of 7 eggs, one by one, a little butter, salt, nutmeg, chopped tarragon; beat this thick in double boiler; add meat glacé and strain. No. 19 Apple Sauce Clean apples, boil in water with cinnamon stick, sugar and a little salt; strain if necessary. No. 20 Mint Sauce Mix finely chopped mint leaves, with consommé, sugar, salt and vinegar, and strain. No. 21 Green Sauce Pound parsley, chervil, sour pickles, onion, anchovy, capers and bread crumbs, strain, add vinegar, oil, salt, pepper and green color. No. 22 Sauce Supreme Make a béchamel with chicken broth, salt, butter and lemon juice. No. 23 Oyster Sauce Cook for 5 minutes, 20 oysters, add the juice to a béchamel sauce made with mirepoix, and strain.186 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 24 Sauce à la Toulouse Add to sauce hollandaise, truffles, mushrooms and meat glacé, without boiling. No. 25 Shrimp Sauce Add to sauce hollandaise, pounded shrimps. No. 26 Sauce Espagnole Sauce espagnole is simply a béchamel made with a strong mirepoix and chicken broth. No. 27 Sauce à la Vénitienne Add a little vinegar to a sauce espagnole. No. 28 Cream Sauce Add to béchamel a little butter and sweet cream. No. 29 Sauce à l’Aurore Strongly seasoned béchamel, mushroom liquid, butter and tomato ketchup and mushroom pieces. No. 30 Sauce Duchesse Add truffles to sauce espagnole. No. 31 Sauce Princesse Add chopped truffles, chicken liver and meat glacé to béchamel. No. 32 Mustard Sauce Add to espagnole sauce, mustard, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. No. 33 Tomato Sauce Add to espagnole sauce, boiled, reduced and strained tomatoes.STOCKS AND SAUCES 187 No. 34 Sauce Piquant Reduce chopped onion, vinegar, capers, chopped mushrooms and gherkins, and add to this sauce espagnole. No. 35 Mayonnaise Stir in a bowl, egg yolks, mustard, pepper, salt and sugar; beat into this, slowly, vinegar and oil; beat in more oil if too soft; more vinegar if too stiff. No. 36 Sauce Tartare Add to mayonnaise, chopped shallot and capers. No. 37 Rémoulade Sauce Chop capers, shallot, pickles, parsley and chives; add this to mayonnaise. No. 38 Prussian Sauce Béchamel with horseradish; cream sugar and seasoning. No. 39 Sauce Chambord Add to béchamel, truffles, chopped mushrooms and blanched oysters. No. 40 Purée of Chestnuts (A) Boil, skin and mash chestnuts; add salt, pepper, butter and a little consommé, and let boil again for a minute. No. 41 Chiffonade (B) Chop well together, lettuce, sorrel, chervil and parsley; boil in consommé for 5 minutes. No. 42 Printanier (C) Cut into small pieces, carrots, turnips, onions, celery leaves and leek; boil for 10 minutes, put in consommé with a handful of rice and let boil for 30 minutes.188 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 43 Bouquet to Flavor Soups (D) Place in thin muslin, parsley, celery, bay leaf, thyme, cloves and tie it up. No. 44 Garniture for Soups (E) Boil 4 ounces butter in 1/4 pint milk and mix 6 ounces flour in it very quickly; take off the fire, mix 3 eggs into this; from this can be made all kinds of quenelles by simply adding some forcemeat; dress on baking tin and bake in moderate oven, covered with greased paper. No. 45 Royal (F) Mix together 6 yolks, 2 whole eggs, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, salt and 1 pint milk or cream; bake in flat tins for 10 minutes. No. 46 Béchamel Sauce (G) Melt in a sauce pan, 3 ounces butter and 2 ounces flour, salt and pepper; let it cook a little; add gradually, boiling milk, letting it cook all the time; strain through china cap. No. 47 Bechamel Villeroi (H) The same as in G ; add mirepoix and strain. No. 48 Bechamel Espagnole (I) The same as in G, but substitute chicken broth for milk. No. 49 Mirepoix (K) Steam for 15 minutes, 2 ounces fat, 2 carrots, 1 onion, thyme, bay leaf, whole peppers, cloves, scraps of raw ham, some celery root and parsley root; keep this in a pot for many uses.CHAPTER 2. Consomme and Bouillon No. 1 Bouillon, or White Broth Put into a stock urn, ribs, knuckles or bones, or scraps of meat; cover with plenty of cold water and some salt; when it comes to a boil put it to one side and never let it boil hard; skim it carefully, from time to time; add to this a carrot, onion, celery root, turnip, a little parsley, leek and a few leaves of celery, let it boil slowly for 6 hours. No. 2 Consommé, Plain Bouillon made of roasted bones, a few cloves, whole peppers, bay leaf ; be careful that it doesn’t boil hard and don’t forget the skimming. No. 3 Consommé Chestnut Mix mashed chestnuts with egg yolk, salt and pepper; shape them into balls; let them boil for 2 minutes and serve. No. 4 Consommé Tapioca Boil for 10 minutes a little tapioca in the consommé. No. 5 Consommé, in Variety Boil spaghetti, vermicelli, rice, barley, noodles and macaroni for 10 minutes or more in water; strain and wash in cold water before it is put in the consomme. No. 6 Consommé Royal Bake 6 yolks, 2 whole eggs, salt, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, 1 pint of milk or cream for 15 minutes; cut into fancy shapes; serve in consommé. No. 7 Consommé Dubourg Chop F into small pieces, add boiled rice and hot consommé and serve.190 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 7-A Consommé Massina Mix A into E; drop into boiling consommé and serve. No. 8 Consommé à la Sevigne Mix chicken forcemeat with E, drop into boiling consommé with some asparagus tips and green peas. No. 9 Consommé Deslignoi Boil C and F into consommé and serve. No. 10 Consommé à l’Orléans Mix crawfish butter with F; boil in consommé, add green peas and rice. No. 11 Consommé à l’impérial Mix chicken forcemeat with F and stick in each drop a piece of truffle; boil with consommé. No. 12 Consommé Princesse Mix chicken breast, consommé, peas and barley. No. 13 Consommé Douglas Blanch celery root pieces, with smoked boiled tongue pieces, boiled rice and mushrooms. No. 14 Consommé à l’Àndalouse Boil tomato sauce and tapioca in consommé and serve. No. 15 Consommé Colbert Serve poached eggs in consommé. No. 16 Printanier Colbert Mix C with consommé and serve with poached eggs.CONSOMME AND BOUILLON 191 No 17 Consommé Suédoise Fill the inside of a roll with this preparation: carrots, turnips, cabbage leaves, peas, string beans, salt, pepper; cook it very thick with a little butter, add strong cheese; bake the roll with a little cheese on top and serve in hot consommé. No. 18 Consommé Rachel Mix smoked boiled tongue with pieces of truffle, chicken forcemeat, and drop into boiling consommé. No. 19 Consommé Printanier Royal Boil C and F into consommé with D and serve. No. 20 Consommé Patti Mix boiled rice, truffles and green peas with consommé. No. 21 Consommé Napolitaine Two ounces spaghetti, % ounce ham, % ounce tongue—all cooked; put over this 1 quart hot consommé and serve with grated cheese.CHAPTER 3. Kitchen Soups No. 1 Onion Soup Brown 3 onions in butter, add a little flour, mix with broth and let boil; toast bread slices with cheese and serve in the soup. No. 2 Soup Beef à VAnglaise Cut into small pieces, j/2 beef 5 brown with butter and boil for one-half hour; add G and boiled barley, salt and pepper. No. 3 Bisque of Clams Scald clams and chop them fine; put juice and pulp back on the stove; add broth, salt, pepper, D and rice, and let boil for 40 minutes; serve with fried bread squares. No. 4 Croûte au Pot Carrots, turnips, celery and cabbage; all chopped and steamed with butter, salt and pepper and hot broth; serve with toasted rolls. No. 5 Boston Fish Chowder Cut up cod-fish (without the bones) into square pieces; add salt and cold water; boil head and bones with broth; skim well and season; let it boil for 20 minutes; try a chopped onion with salt pork, add flour and boil with the broth; strain, add squares of potatoes, let it boil again; put in the fish, some milk and chopped parsley, but don’t boil it any more. No. 6 Clam Chowder Steam together: salt pork, onions, parsley, celery, butter, thyme, clams, potato squares, salt and pepper; add broth and thicken with crushed crackers. No. 7 Chiffonade, Plain Chop 1 quart sorrel with lettuce leaves, onions browned with butter, salt, pepper, peas, string beans and asparagus tips; add broth and serve with croutons.KITCHEN SOUPS 193 No. 8 How to Prepare Green Turtle Soup Cut off the head and let bleed for quite a while; remove the bones and cut to pieces and blanch for 3 minutes in boiling water; cook the shell in broth with whole peppers, cloves, bay leaves and thyme (tied in muslin) for 1 hour; drain, pick over the whole and cut up carefully; reduce the broth and cook the whole for 10 minutes and fill in pot; pour hot lard over it. No. 9 Green Turtle Soup Cook a pint of green turtle with 1 quart broth, add D, red pepper, salt, nutmeg, a cup espagnole sauce; serve with peeled, sliced lemons. No. 10 Mock Turtle The same as for green turtle; omit the espagnole sauce, but add cornstarch. No. 11 Giblets with Rice Brown in fat, chicken giblets and onions; add broth, a fine carrot, turnip, rice, salt and pepper; boil for 30 minutes and serve with sliced tomatoes. No. 12 Giblets with Barley The same as giblets with rice; substitute barley for rice. No. 13 Giblets a VAnglaise Brown minced giblets and sliced onions; cook with broth and espagnole sauce, D, salt and pepper; serve with sliced tomatoes and hard boiled eggs. No. 14 Gumbo with Frogs Cut green peppers, onions, raw ham and brown in 2 ounces butter, salt and pepper; add broth, tomatoes, rice, gumbo; let it cook for 20 minutes and add raw frogs in small pieces to it. No. 15 Gumbo with Crabs Replace the frog by soft shelled crabs, 5 minutes before serving.194 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 16 Frog a FEspagnole The same as gumbo with frogs; substitute plenty of green peppers and tomatoes for gumbo. No. 17 Oyster Soup Mix medium oysters, salt, butter and pepper; let it boil with water just once; add boiling milk and serve. No. 18 Julienne Brown with butter, shreds of carrots, turnips, celery leaves, leek, cabbage, onions, add broth; let it boil for 30 minutes; add green peas and string beans. No. 19 Jardiniere The same as Julienne; omit the cabbage. These soups can be all thickened with G, or béchamel; the majority of people prefer a thick soup. No. 20 Velvet Soup Boil a broth out of 10 pounds beef (shin) ; always start with cold water, skim carefully as soon as it commences to boil; add carrots, turnips, onions, cloves, peppers and D, or bouquet; boil for 4 hours; cut the meat into square pieces; add G, or béchamel, and serve. No. 21 Mutton with Barley Cut into small pieces, lean mutton; brown it in fat and onions; season with salt and pepper, add broth and boil for 40 minutes; add barley; thicken with G, or béchamel if desired. No. 22 Mutton Printanier The same as mutton with barley; add printanier. No. 22-A Mutton à l’Ecossaise The same as mutton with barley; substitute steamed oatmeal for barley.KITCHEN SOUPS 195 No. 23 Pot au Feu (A) Steam together, onions, carrots, turnips, celery, leek, cabbage, with butter or fat; add broth and a handful of rice; let boil for 30 minutes and serve with grated cheese. No. 24 Napolitaine Brown raw chicken pieces in butter or fat, with a little lean ham (raw), green peppers, onions, carrots, all cut small; add broth, rice, salt, pepper and macaroni; let it boil for 30 minutes. No. 25 Oxtail with Barley- Cut the tail in little pieces, brown them in butter or fat; add broth, season and let cook for 1 hour; add boiled barley and C, or printanier. No. 26 Oxtail a PEcossaise The same as oxtail with barley; substitute steamed oatmeal for barley. No. 27 Oxtail a PAnglaise Add to oxtail with barley, Worcestershire, D, or bouquet; serve with slices of lemon and chopped hard boiled eggs. No. 28 Sorrel with Asparagus Tips Cook in broth, fine chopped sorrel, salt and pepper for 10 minutes ; cook for 20 minutes more with the asparagus tips; thicken with G, or béchamel, and a few egg yolks; serve with toasted bread. No. 29 Sorrel with Rice The same as the above; omit asparagus tips and toast; substitute rice. No. 30 Potato Purée Mashed potatoes, broth, D, or bouquet; season with salt and pepper and strain; add G, or béchamel, or cream and toast.196 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 31 Purée Parmentier The same as potato purée; add cut-up leek 15 minutes before serving. No. 32 Purée Bretonne, or Bean Soup Mashed white beans (boiled very soft) ; add broth, D, or bouquet; strain; add béchamel and toast. No. 33 Purée Faubonne (Lentils) The same as bean soup; substitute lentils for beans; add a little chopped parsley and green peas. No. 34 Purée Condé, or Red Bean Soup Red beans, boiled with salt pork, salt pepper, bouquet, onions, carrots (mashed) ; strain and serve with croutons (small squares of bread fried in butter). No. 35 Purée of Green Peas The same as the above; substitute green peas for beans; add G, or béchamel. No. 36 Purée Moqoie, or Soup of Dried Peas The same as purée condé; add to it carrots, onions, turnips, leek and tomatoes, steamed in butter or fat. No. 37 Printanier Grenat Add to printanier, before serving, slices of raw tomato in each plate. No. 38 Printanier Chasseur Add cooked game to printanier. No. 39 Paysanne (Country Soup) Cut into small pieces and steam in butter or fat, potatoes, onions, carrots, turnips, cabbage, celery, pepper, and salt; add broth and slices of toasted bread.KITCHEN SOUPS 197 No. 40 Pot au Feu (Family Soup) Cut and steam, carrots, onions, turnips, D, or bouquet; add whole peppers and salt and serve with toasted rolls. No. 41 Soup à la Russe Add to broth, mirepoix and printanier. No. 42 Spaghetti with Tomatoes Add boiled spaghetti and tomatoes to broth, season and serve. No. 43 Tomatoes with Rice Add boiled rice and tomatoes to broth. No. 44 Tomatoes à TAndalouse Mix with garniture, chicken forcemeat; boil in consommé, with tomatoes, paprika and some tapioca. No. 44A Tomato Bisque Strain boiled tomatoes into a béchamel; add salt, pepper and a very little baking soda; add to this, boiled milk; make this nice and smooth—a creamy soup—and serve with a pinch of parsley. No. 45 Tomatoes with Sago Add to broth, sago, tomatoes, pepper and salt. No. 46 Chicken Soup Boil with chicken broth, for 40 minutes, lima beans, gumbo, onions, green peppers (shredded), a little curry, a bouquet, D, corn, salt and pepper; remove the bouquet and serve. No. 47 Chicken Piemontaise Chicken meat and broth, with E, mirepoix and D, or béchamel.198 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 48 Chicken Hollandaise Chicken broth and meat, onion juice, rice, D, or bouquet and red pepper. No. 49 Chicken a la Creole Add to chicken hollandaise, green peppers and beans, ham (very fine cut), and serve with two slices tomatoes placed in each plate. No. 50 Chicken Portugaise Add to chicken hollandaise, C, or printanier. No. 51 Chicken à la Gumbo Add to chicken à la creole, some gumbo or okra. No. 52 Chicken with Leek Add to chicken broth, onions and leek (chopped very fine), D, or bouquet, salt and pepper. No. 53 Chicken à la Turque Chicken broth and meat; add mirepoix, red pepper and salt. No. 54 Cream of Asparagus Boil a bouquet, whole peppers, broth, asparagus juice and béchamel; strain; add asparagus tips and serve. No. 55 Cream of Celery (A) Fry some mirepoix, butter and flour; add hot broth, hot milk and nutmeg; boil for 30 minutes with some celery roots; strain and serve with croutons. No. 55A Cream of Celery (B) Cut up celery and steam in a small quantity of water for half an hour; strain into a bechamel; add boiling milk, season with salt and pepper; this soup must be smooth and creamy; serve with croutons.KITCHEN SOUPS 199 No. 56 Cream of Artichoke The same as for celery; substitute artichokes for celery. No. 57 Cream of Lima Beans The same as for celery; substitute lima beans for celery. No. 58 Cream of Dried Peas Soak the peas the night before; boil with bouquet, salt pork, broth or water, carrots, onions, cloves and whole peppers; strain and serve. No. 59 Cream of Sorrel Steam sorrel in butter; add broth, bechamel, salt, pepper, cream, egg yolk; strain and serve with toast. No. 60 Cream of Sorrel and Rice The same as the above; substitute rice for béchamel. No. 61 Cream of Chicken Make a béchamel of chicken broth; chop the chicken meat into this, and strain into it the following (steamed together) : whole peppers, cloves and rice; add milk or cream; season and serve with croutons. No. 62 Cream of Game The same as the above, substitute game for chicken. No. 63 Cream of Turnips Mashed turnips with bechamel; mix cream, beaten with egg yolk, into this before serving. The experienced cook can make a good many more soups and is always able to make them richer or poorer, and can work up a good many left-overs; it all depends on conditions.200 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 64 Cuisson de Poisson, or Fish Broth One gallon water, salt, vinegar, carrots, onions, whole peppers, parsley root, thyme, bay leaf; boil 15 minutes; this is for various methods of cooking fish. No. 65 Chicken Essence Strain through a linen napkin, 1 quart chicken broth; reduce by cooking, to one-half pint. No. 66 Frimet of Game Cut up carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaf, lean ham (raw), and the carcass of any kind of game (raw) ; let brown in butter; boil in covered saucepan with consommé, salt and pepper; strain through napkin.CHAPTER 4. Forcemeats No. 1 Sausage Forcemeat Fresh pork, salt, pepper, nutmeg and thyme; chopped in machine. No. 2 Godiveau Forcemeat Chop in machine, lean veal and a little suet; season highly; add this to E, or garniture and pâté a chou; poach it three minutes before serving. No. 3 Lobster Forcemeat Fry onions with butter, flour and broth; make a bechamel, or cream; add white pepper, red pepper, mustard, English sauce, garlic, parsley; add cooked lobster and mushrooms; cook for 30 minutes, add some yolks of eggs. No. 4 Crab Forcemeat The same as the lobster forcemeat; substitute crab for lobster. No. 5 Clam Forcemeat The same as the lobster forcemeat; substitute clams for lobster, chopped very fine. No. 6 Chicken Forcemeat à la Cream Cut very fine, white meat of chicken; add 3 egg whites, salt, pepper and nutmeg and a little cream. No. 7 Chicken Forcemeat Mix very fine chopped white meat of chicken, and the same amount of bread soaked in milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, butter, egg yolk and H, or béchamel villeroi. No. 8 Game Forcemeat The same as for chicken; substitute game for chicken.202 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 9 Forcemeat Flamande Fry onions in butter and mix with soaked and well pressed bread, eggs, sausage meat, salt, pepper, nutmeg and sage. No. 10 Mushroom Garnishing Add to villerois sauce, finely chopped mushrooms. No. 11 Garnishing Bayard Add to sauce espagnole, mushrooms, truffles, and smoked beef tongue, fried in butter. No. 12 Marrow Garnishing Mix beef marrow in E or pâté a chou. No. 13 Mixed Garnishing A good many garnishings can be made by the experienced cook by adding to the following sauces: béchamel, espagnole, royal, pâté a chou, béchamel, villerois, sauce hollandaise; to mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, olives, chicken livers, cockscombs, shallots, beef marrows, fine herbs, sweetbreads, kidneys, salt pork, shrimps, celery pâté de foie gras, gherkins, capers and all kinds of spices; put on bread slices shaped as hearts, squares, diamonds, or round, or on croutons, toasted or fried in butter. Cut these articles in nice even pieces or pound them as desired. These forcemeats and garnishings are used over or under steaks, chops, patties, timbales, croquettes, cases, in shells, on canapés, bouchées, on toast, or over and under games or meats; be very careful with all spices, cloves in particular.CHAPTER 5. Hors d’Oeuvres, or Side Dishes No. 1 Timbales a I’Ecossaise Butter well timbale molds; line with very thin bread slices; put into these a preparation of chicken garnish and forcemeat, cover with bread; bake; turn on hot dish; pour the desired sauce over it and serve. No. 2 Noodle Timbales Butter well and sprinkle with bread crumbs, the number of molds required; fill with fine boiled noodles, add butter and cheese on top; bake in hot oven, turn on hot dish; always season just right. No. 3 Timbales Russe The same as for noodles, but with sweetbread garnishing. No. 4 Shells for Garnishing (K) Line timbale molds with puff paste trimmings; use round papers, to reach just to the top of the molds; cut them 7 or 8 times all around, towards the center; cover the paste with papers and fill the timbale molds half-full, with cherry stones or small beans; bake in warm oven; when done, take out the beans and papers. No. 5 Croustade Regence Fill the shell K with shrimps and mushroom garnishing. No. 6 English Patties Fill the shell K with sweetbread garnishing. No. 7 Ortolan Patties Fill the shell K with a little espagnole on the bottom; on top of this, slices of roast game; cover with espagnole.204 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 Canape New York Cover toast with ham and mustard; cover with any garnish desired; sprinkle cheese and bread crumbs over this, and a few drops of butter, and bake in hot oven. No. 9 Bouchées à la Reine Fill patty shells with G, or béchamel, mixed with mushrooms and truffles. No. 10 Mixed Bouchées All the bouchées are made as above à la Reine; fill them with whatever fancy may direct. No. 11 Coquilles of Oysters au Gratin Fill table shells, or crab shells, with the same garnishing as for patties, or as fancy may direct. A great many patties, canapées, bouchées, coquilles (or on toast), can be made by using different creams, béchamels and garnishings. No. 12 Caviar on Toast Spread Russian caviar on toast, heated with a little cream. No. 13 Anchovies on Toast Spread anchovy butter on toast and cut in half; put them in the oven for a minute or two. No. 14 Chicken Croquettes Mix cut-up chicken meat into a well seasoned thick béchamel; break into the size desired; roll in flour and fry in hot fat. No. 15 Mixed Croquettes All croquettes are made in this way: oysters, sweetbreads, shrimps, game meat of any kind, with olives, mushrooms, truffles, etc.HORS D’OEUVRES, OR SIDE DISHES 205 No. 16 Mariné Mariné of fish, sardines in oil, anchovies, herring and pickled tuna are as follows: peel off the skin neatly and place on a plate; decorate with chopped hard boiled eggs, or chopped parsley, or both. No. 17 Tomatoes and Cucumbers (Side Dish) Skin the tomatoes and cucumbers and slice thin; keep them very cold; mix, in bottle, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper; shake well before you sprinkle this over the tomatoes and cucumbers. No. 18 Celery and Radishes Have them fresh, young and cold. No. 19 Welsh Rarebit Melt small pieces of cheese mixed with cream; distribute over toast. No. 20 Golden Buck The same as the above, with chopped hard boiled eggs sprinkled over it. No. 21 Cheese au Gratin Spread on buttered bread, thickly sliced cheese; bake on baking tin in very hot oven.CHAPTER 6. Fish No. 1 Oysters on the Shell Use the Boston stabbing knife, keeping oysters on the deep shell, nicely arranged on oyster plates, on ice; serve with lemon quarters. No. 2 Oysters a la Franklin Serve oysters on the half shell, with the following in the sauce bowl: salt, crushed white peppers, chopped shallot, chives, parsley, olive oil, tabasco sauce, Worcestershire sauce and some vinegar. No. 3 Clams on the Shell Serve on ice with lemon. No. 4 Breaded Fish Have pure, clean and dry fish; dip in milk highly seasoned, then in flour, then in egg and bread crumbs; fry in hot fat. No. 5 Oyster Croustades Envelop oysters in boiled rice, potatoes, oatmeal or hominy; dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread crumbs or cracker dust, or flour; repeat this three times before frying. No. 6 Salmon Let the salmon boil for 5 minutes in water seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, onion, cloves and parsley root; dress on hot dish on folded napkin, with parsley; serve with oyster sauce. No. 7 Salmon Colbert The same as the above, but serve with sauce supreme.FISH 207 No. 8 Salmon à la Régence Fill the salmon with fish forcemeat, seasoned extra well; cover with pork skin, bake in oven; serve with régence sauce and boiled potatoes. No. 9 Salmon Italian The same as above, but serve with mushrooms and chambord sauce. No. 10 English Salmon Bone the salmon; parboil; sprinkle with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add oyster and bread crumbs and chopped parsley; roll this into it, bake for 20 minutes in a deep pan and serve with its own liquid. No. 11 Boiled Halibut Let the halibut boil for 5 minutes after coming to a boil in cold water, with D or bouquet, onion, carrot, whole peppers and vinegar; serve with egg sauce. No. 12 Halibut Steak Maitre d’Hotel Broil the halibut and serve with parsley and maitre d’hotel. No. 13 Trout with Anchovy Sauce Boil the same as salmon and serve with anchovy sauce and boiled potatoes. A good cook will know how to serve to the best advantage and in the most appetizing way; should always be clean and hot. No. 14 Mixed Fish Any and all of the following fresh fish: salmon, halibut, trout, sole, filet of sole, shad, mackerel and bass, can be fried, stuffed with different garnish, boiled, baked and broiled, and prepared the same way as the foregoing; served with boiled, fried or dressed fancy potatoes, and with sauce.208 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 15 Sauces Oyster, mayonnaise, supreme, green mustard, venitienne, toulouse, hollandaise, lobster, chambord, shrimp, horseradish, anchovy, maitre d’hotel, egg, melted butter, black or brown butter, butter a la Ravigale, persillade tartare and drawn butter. Garnish the fish dish with croutons, fancy shapes of toast, mushrooms, a little shallot and lemon quarters, etc. No. 16 Mackerel en Papillotes Butter a strong piece of paper; put on this two slices of ham; give the mackerel 5 little cuts on each side; sprinkle with salt, pepper and fine herbs (fried in butter); put the fish on top of the ham; put two slices of ham on top of the fish; envelop it in paper and bake for 15 minutes; serve in the paper. No. 17 Mackerel with Fine Herbs Prepare the mackerel the same as above, without the ham; put them in baking tin and cover with paper; add a little mushroom liquid; let bake for 15 minutes; strain gravy into sauce hollandaise. No. 18 Shad with Sorrel Steam in a saucepan a nice piece of shad with the following: oil, lemon, parsley, onion, mushroom liquid, bouquet, sorrel, pickled and minced peppers, salt; thicken the gravy with bechamel; strain and serve. No. 19 Matelote of Eels Add to the cut-up eels (which have been browned in butter on both sides and placed in a sauce pan), the following ingredients: mushroom liquid, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, chopped shallot, butter, a bouquet, nutmeg, chopped mushrooms and broth; steam for 30 minutes and thicken the gravy with a little flour fried in butter; remove the bouquet. No. 20 Eel Parisienne The same as the above; serve with garnished heart-shaped croutons.FISH 209 No. 21 Fried Eels Hollandaise Dip fresh eels, seasoned with pepper and salt, in flour, and fry in butter. No. 22 Fried Fish Bluefish, sheepshead, bass, flounder, pike—all these are prepared by baking. Rub the fish with salt and pepper and dip them in flour; brown them in hot fat (this must not take more than 3 minutes); put them in a baking dish with chopped onion, parsley, bay leaf, whole peppers, I clove, and bake for 30 minutes under a buttered paper; garnish with toasted bread and serve with a nice sauce. No. 23 Salt Cod Swedish Soak codfish for 24 hours, in different waters; boil in fresh cold water and separate the bones; season with oil, clove, garlic, chilli peppers; fry together, onions and green peppers; add broth, or water, bouquet D, tomato sauce, a little English sauce; let cook for 45 minutes; dress on hot dish with chopped parsley fried in butter, over it. No. 24 Codfish Bonne Femme Dress the above prepared codfish on a hot dish; cover with the following mixture: mix with sauce hollandaise small pieces potatoes (boiled), tomato sauce and chopped hard boiled eggs. No. 25 How to Prepare Codfish Tongues Season half a sauce pan of cold water with salt, pepper, cloves, bouquet D, onion and lemon; let this come to a boil with the tongues; drain and keep in cool place; use when needed. No. 26 Codfish Tongues with Drawn Butter The same as the above; heat and serve with drawn butter. No. 27 Codfish Tongues with Black Butter Heat the above prepared tongues and serve with black butter and a spray of parsley.210 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 28 Fried Codfish Tongues Dip in milk, then in flour, repeat; fry in butter and serve with tomato sauce. No. 29 Codfish Tongues a la Poulette Take prepared codfish tongues; heat them, without boiling, in sauce hollandaise; dress on hot dish with chopped parsley fried in butter, sprinkled over it. No. 30 Boiled Codfish Boil very soft codfish for 25 minutes and serve with any fish sauce desired. No. 31 Broiled Boned Smelts Split and remove the backbone; rub with salt, pepper and oil; broil for two minutes on each side; arrange them carefully on a hot plate, on hot sauce. No. 32 Smelts Flamand Cook smelts in seasoned mushroom liquid for 6 minutes; put on dish, boil the juice with mushrooms and truffles; mix this with sauce hollandaise and a little butter. No. 33 Stuffed Smelts Bone and stuff the smelts with fresh forcemeat; bake and cover with the sauce desired; decorate with croutons or anything desired. No. 34 Smelts au Gratin Put in baking dish, with fine herbs fried in butter, salt and pepper, and cover with sauce espagnole, sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake; serve with parsley and lemon. No. 35 Lobster a /’American Put in hot oil the lobster meat and chopped onion, green peppers, small pieces of garlic, salt, red pepper and tomato sauce; let it come to a boil and mix it with pieces of tomatoes and serve.FISH 211 No. 36 Curry Lobster and Rice Boil lobster pieces in butter, add salt, pepper and curry; mix with sauce hollandaise, have it good and hot; serve within a border of stiff boiled rice. No. 37 Lobster de Frankforte Steam very fine-cut carrots, onions and crushed whole white peppers with a little butter; boil in this the lobster pieces; add sauce villeroi (H) and serve. No. 38 Lobster a la Newburg Cook cut lobster meat with truffles, salt, pepper and mushroom liquid; thicken with egg yolks and serve. No. 39 Lobster au Brousette Stick nice pieces of lobster meat on silver skewers, with a mushroom between each piece of lobster; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; broil for about 8 minutes and serve with maitre d’hotel, very hot, with slices broiled bacon on top. No. 40 Lobster en Chevreuse Heat boiled lobster pieces in butter and fried chopped shallot; add salt, pepper, nutmeg and velouté sauce or béchamel; let boil for 10 minutes; fill in table or crab shells with a slice of truffle; cover with bread crumbs and a few drops of butter; bake for 5 minutes and serve. No. 41 Broiled Lobster Split the lobster in half, remove the stony pouch and intestines; season with salt and pepper and glacé them with oil; broil for 7 minutes on each side and serve with maitre d’hotel. No. 42 Lobster Croquettes Fry small pieces of lobster meat in a little butter, seasoned with shallot, pepper, salt, mustard, cayenne pepper and chopped parsley; add thick béchamel; divide into the size desired; roll in flour and fry in hot fat; garnish with spray of parsley, on folded napkin, and add in a bowl the sauce desired.212 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 43 Lobster Cutlets The same as the croquettes; have them cutlet shape. No. 44 Stuffed Lobster Fill lobster forcemeat into empty lobster tails; roll in bread crumbs and press down with a knife; add a few drops of butter and bake for 5 minutes; serve with parsley spray. Serve all that can be served on a folded napkin. No. 45 Fried Soft Shell Crabs Clean and wash and roll in flour; dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat; serve with fried parsley. No. 46 Crabs à la Diable Fill crab shells with crab forcemeat; sprinkle with bread crumbs; drop butter over them and bake for 5 minutes; serve with parsley spray. No. 47 Broiled Soft Shell Crabs Oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper; broil for 5 minutes on each side; glacé with maitre d’hotel. No. 48 Crab Laurens Mix crab meat with béchamel, pepper, salt, cayenne pepper and strong grated horseradish; boil for 10 minutes; spread over squares of buttered toast; sprinkle with grated cheese and drops of butter and bake for 3 minutes; serve with parsley spray. No. 49 Crab St. Jean Add to crab forcemeat fried shallot, garlic, parsley and chervil; fill in shells, cover with bread crumbs, drops of butter; bake for 5 minutes; serve with parsley spray.FISH 213 No. 50 Oyster à la Poulette Parboil for 3 minutes, oysters, butter, salt and pepper; add sauce hollandaise, have very hot, but do not boil. No. 51 Crab à la Poulette The same as the above. No. 52 Fried Oyster Crabs Have clean, dry oyster crabs; roll in flour, then in eggs; roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat; sprinkle with salt and serve in tart shells. No. 53 Stuffed Clams Fill good-sized clam shells with clam forcemeat; cover with bread crumbs and drops of butter and bake for 5 minutes. No. 54 Clams Marinière Stew clams with butter, a pinch of chives, chopped fine chervil, a little water, a little pepper and bread crumbs; boil for 2 minutes and serve with lemon juice. No. 55 Mussel Marinière Proceed for mussels the same as for clams. No. 56 Mussel à la Poulette The same as for oyster à la poulette; substitute mussels for oysters. No. 57 Fried Oysters Dip the oysters in flour, then in beaten eggs, then cracker dust; fry in hot fat for 5 minutes; sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve with parsley spray. No. 58 Oysters Villerois Blanch some oysters in their own juice for two minutes; drain, spread chicken forcemeat on both sides, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat for 3 minutes and serve with parsley.214 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 59 Broiled Oysters Dip the oysters in bread crumbs and cracker dust; press them well; broil them on well greased broiler; serve on buttered toast and glaze with maitre d’hotel sauce on top. No. 60 Oyster Pierrotte The same as oyster a la poulette; substitute truffles for parsley. No. 61 Oysters in Blankets Prepare the oysters as for frying; envelop them in a very fine, thin slice of bacon; pin together with toothpicks and fry in hot fat; serve with parsley. No. 62 Oyster Mali Chop an onion very fine; brown in butter; add some cooked, finely minced spinach; chop some oysters very fine and mix the whole; season with salt and pepper and stew for 15 minutes; put in oyster shells, 3 parboiled oysters, cover with the above mixture; cover with bread crumbs and drops of butter and bake for 3 minutes. No. 63 Oyster Patties Parboil oysters for 3 minutes; remove the juice; add to the oysters a bechamel sauce; heat well, but do not boil; season, fill patty shells and serve. No. 64 Baltimore Oysters Stew the oysters for two minutes with butter; season highly, add espagnole sauce; make it very hot, but do not boil; add lemon juice just before serving. Serve in hot tureen. No. 65 Terrapin—How to Prepare Blanch terrapin in boiling water for two minutes; remove the skin from the feet and cook again with salt until soft; clean the whole (be careful not to break the gall bag); add pepper and nutmeg.FISH 215 No. 66 Terrapin Baltimore Add to hot mirepoix, flour and cook for 15 minutes; add strong broth and a little butter and boil again; season with cayenne pepper; strain; add the above prepared terrapin, cut into small pieces, and serve. No. 67 Terrapin Maryland Add to the prepared terrapin, butter, sweet cream, boiled egg yolks and truffles; have it hot, but don’t boil it, and serve. No. 68 Frogs a la Poulette Prepare the frog stew in a sauce pan with mushroom liquid, salt, pepper, nutmeg and butter; boil for 15 minutes, add sauce hollandaise, fine chopped parsley, lemon juice; have very hot but don’t boil. No. 69 Broiled Frogs Prepare the frogs; take off the feet; roll them in oil, salt and pepper, for a minute or two; broil on each side for 4 minutes; place on dish, pour maitre d’hotel sauce over them and serve. No. 70 Fried Frogs Roll the frogs in a little oil, vinegar, salt and pepper; immerse them in frying batter and fry in hot fat; serve with parsley spray; add the sauce desired. No. 71 Frog Espagnole Cut up in small pieces, green peppers and peeled tomatoes; add salt, pepper, butter and a little mushroom liquid; steam for 5 minutes; cook in this for 8 minutes the frogs; drain and dress on folded napkin and serve with the same sauce they were cooked in. No. 72 Broiled Shad’s Roe with Bacon Wipe with a towel thoroughly; place in a little oil, salt and pepper for seasoning, and broil for 6 minutes on each side; dress on hot dish, pour maitre d’hotel sauce over it and serve with slices broiled bacon.CHAPTER 7. Eggs No. 1 Poached Eggs Have the water boiling gently, not hard; add a little vinegar to it, drop in the eggs carefully, and serve with toast. No. 2 Scrambled Eggs Add to the beaten eggs a little milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg; or, if no milk wanted, add butter; serve on toast. No. 3 Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus Tips Add to scrambled eggs with butter, cooked asparagus tips; serve on toast. No. 4 Scrambled Eggs with Truffles Reduce to one-half a little mushroom liquid with slices of truffles ; add this to the beaten and seasoned eggs and prepare the same. No. 5 Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Beef Fry with any garnish, minced smoked beef, and mix with the eggs to be scrambled and proceed the same. No. 6 Scrambled Eggs with Chicory Blanch a chicory head for 15 minutes; cut and mix with fine chopped onion; fry in butter and add the eggs. No. 7 Omelets Truffles, asparagus, smoked beef and chicory omelets are made the same way; make omelet in place of scrambling.EGGS 217 No. 8 Eggs Strasburg Cover toast with pâté de foie gras, put scrambled eggs on top, and serve garnished with parsley, lettuce or water cress. No. 9 Eggs in Béchamel Add hard boiled eggs to hot béchamel; don’t let it boil; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and serve with heart-shaped croutons. No. 10 Eggs à la Pauvre Femme Melt butter in a deep dish, break in the eggs, sprinkle with bread crumbs; bake in the oven for two minutes; cover with hot espagnole sauce and sprinkle with cut-up ham and serve. No. 11 Eggs au Gratin Mix well in a bowl, a tablespoonful of bread crumbs, butter, chopped anchovies, shallot, parsley, a pinch of chervil and 3 egg yolks, salt, pepper and nutmeg; put in frying pan on slow fire for two minutes; break the eggs on top and bake in the oven; remove with cake turner carefully to serving dish and decorate as desired. No. 12 Eggs Valencienne Cook for 5 minutes, tomato sauce, sliced truffles, boiled rice, grated parmesan cheese, cut-up mushrooms; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; make from this a border on the serving dish and put inside the number of poached eggs desired. No. 13 Eggs Finois Cook tomato sauce and mix with finely chopped sweet peppers and chives; season and pour this over poached eggs on toast. No. 14 Eggs with Fresh Mushrooms Fry in butter fine chopped mushrooms; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice; add béchamel sauce; pour in serving dish with poached eggs on top.218 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 15 Eggs with Celery The same as for mushrooms; substitute boiled celery for mushrooms. No. 16 Eggs with Truffles Peel and slice truffles and steam in butter and mushroom liquid for 15 minutes; add béchamel sauce; pour on serving dish, put heart-shaped pieces of toast all around and poached eggs in the center. No. 17 Eggs and Tarragon Blanch tarragon leaves, drain and chop and mix with eggs; season and make an omelet and serve. No. 18 Eggs with Chicken Livers Slice chicken livers; steam them in a saucepan with butter, chopped mushrooms, parsley, chervil, salt and pepper and place it in an omelet. No. 19 Eggs a la Bonne Femme Fry in butter an onion; add a little flour and make a sauce with milk the same as for bechamel (about a pint); season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add the yolks and the well beaten whites of 4 eggs, on the fire, but don’t let it boil; put two sheets of paper, well buttered, on baking tin; put mixture on top and bake for 15 minutes; turn on dish, take off the papers and glaze with meat glace and serve. No. 20 Cheese Omelet Mix grated cheese with the eggs; make an omelet; sprinkle cheese on top; bake in hot oven for 5 minutes and serve. No. 21 Eggs à la Paysanne Boil % pint cream; season with salt and crushed white peppers; cook about 12 eggs in this for two minutes; pour in baking dish and bake for 3 minutes in hot oven; do not let the eggs harden; cover top with meat glacé.EGGS 219 No. 22 Eggs a la Regence Chop salt pork (or ham), mushrooms and onions and cook in butter with salt, pepper, and a little vinegar; cook the eggs in this and serve. No. 23 Eggs a la Turque Cook sliced truffles, chopped chicken breast and salt, pepper and nutmeg; add sauce hollandaise and pour over the baked eggs and serve. No. 24 Eggs à la Reine The same as eggs à la Turque; substitute chicken livers for chicken breast. No. 25 Eggs imperial Cover the prepared eggs with slices of pâté de foie gras and serve. No. 26 Eggs a la Suisse Fry the eggs for two minutes; cover with tomato sauce; add cut-up cooked sausages and a little grated cheese; bake in oven for two minutes and serve. No. 27 Eggs Alsace Garnish the eggs with the following: fry for 4 minutes, in butter, a finely chopped onion and calf’s liver and a little vinegar. No. 28 Eggs Aurore Separate the yolk from hard boiled eggs; pound them with butter, salt, nutmeg and raw yolk; chop the whites and mix with bechamel; spread the yolk on very soft buttered toast and pour the whites on top and serve. No. 29 Eggs Barnard Cut the hard boiled eggs lengthwise; mix the yolk with butter and a teaspoonful of anchovy essence and chopped chives; beat well and fill in whites; cover with bread crumbs; add butter, bake and pour over it well seasoned sauce espagnole.220 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 30 Eggs a la Duchesse Boil to a syrup, % pound sugar with % pint water, lemon peel and cinnamon stick; add orange flower water; strain into 12 yolks, which have been mixed with salt and 1 pint of cream; bake in silver dish with a little lemon juice, and serve in the same dish. No. 31 Omelet with Fine Herbs Add a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, and a little cream, to the well-beaten eggs and make your omelet. No. 32 Oyster Omelet Add to sauce hollandaise boiled and strained oysters ; season with salt and pepper and roll in omelet. No. 33 Crawfish Omelet Steam for 5 minutes crawfish tails in butter; envelop this in the omelet which has been mixed with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and cream. No. 34 Lobster Omelet Cut cooked lobster meat into small pieces; stew in butter with salt and a little mushroom liquid; mix with hot, strongly seasoned béchamel and place in the omelet. No. 35 Crab Omelet The same as for lobster; substitute crab for lobster. No. 36 Tomato Omelet Season with salt and pepper, and stew, very solid, pieces of tomatoes in butter and put in the omelet. No. 37 Asparagus Tips Omelet Fry cooked asparagus tips with butter, salt and pepper and put them in the omelet.EGGS 221 No. 38 Green Peas Omelet The same as asparagus tips omelet; substitute green peas for asparagus tips. No. 39 Omelet au Capers The same as the above; substitute capers for peas. No. 40 Smoked Beef Omelet The same as the above; substitute smoked beef for capers. No. 41 Ham Omelet The same as the above; substitute boiled ham for the beef. No. 42 Kidney Omelet The same as the above; substitute blanched, minced kidneys for the ham. No. 43 Chicken Liver Omelet The same as the above; substitute chicken livers for kidneys. No. 44 Sausage Omelet Mix skinned, baked and sliced sausage with strongly seasoned béchamel (hot), and put in the omelet. No. 45 Omelet Bonne Femme Chop onion, cut up salt pork, ham, veal or beef, parsley and bread crumbs; add salt, pepper and tomato sauce and put in the omelet. No. 46 Sardine Omelet Skin sardines, fry in butter for two minutes, add salt and pepper and put in the omelet.222 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 47 Cheese Omelet Mix grated cheese in the eggs; season and make the omelet and sprinkle cheese on top. No. 48 Omelet Régence Envelop hot régence garnish in the omelet. No. 49 Omelet Espagnole Stew in butter, chopped onions, green peppers, mushrooms and cut-up tomatoes; add a little tomato sauce; season well and put in omelet. No. 50 Mexican Omelet Stew in saucepan, cooked lobster, green peppers, onions, shrimp meat, salt and red pepper; have it good and hot; mix with hot béchamel and put in omelet. No. 51 Omelet Soufflé Beat with the egg beater, yolks of 5 eggs and 2 ounces powdered sugar, in a bowl; beat the whites into a stiff froth and mix; dress nicely on oval, flat serving dish ; bake in oven to a nice brown and serve.CHAPTER 8. Beef No. 1 Beef a la Mode Take a piece of rump, lard it and let it marinate for 12 hours, with vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf and parsley root; put the meat in a saucepan with a little butter and let it brown on both sides; take it out and add a little flour to the gravy, and make a sauce with broth or water; replace the beef, add carrots, onions, garlic, salt and pepper; cook it very tender; strain the gravy and cut the onions and carrots and replace in the gravy and serve. No. 2 Braised Beef a la Province The same as beef a la mode; add pieces of cauliflower, potatoes, carrots and beans to the gravy; serve the vegetables nicely on the side of the meat. No. 3 Beef Melanais Form risotto in balls the size of an egg; roll in flour, dip in egg and dip in flour again; fry in hot fat; put them around the beef a la mode and cover with the strained gravy, without the vegetables. No. 4 Beef Flamande The same as the beef a la mode; add to the gravy, on the dish, cooked red cabbage, carrots and turnips. No. 5 Smoked Beef à la Cream Mince smoked beef very fine; put it in a sauce pan, add a little butter and cream; add béchamel and serve as soon as it is hot (no salt). No. 6 Beefsteak Pie Cut nicely well-done braised beef; add béchamel to the gravy and bake with the top of a pie crust over it.224 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 7 Beefsteak Pie American The same as the above, with cauliflower, carrots and onions. No. 8 Corned Beef Take rump or brisket; cook it for a minute or two and change the water; cook until tender and serve with spinach, cabbage, brussels sprouts or kale. No. 9 Sirloin Béarnaise Sirloin steak served with béarnaise sauce; all steaks must be basted or brushed with oil. No. 10 Sirloin Bordelaise Serve the steak with thin slices of marrow on top and cover with béarnaise sauce. These steaks are all prepared the same way, only add different sauces and garnishings. No. 11 Sirloin Duchesse Take the bones out of a 4 or 5 pound piece of sirloin, lard the top and season; put in baking dish with pork skin, carrots, parsley, onions, thyme, and bay leaf and roast for 40 minutes; add consommé; skim the fat, strain and serve with the steak in a separate bowl. No. 12 Sirloin Steak à la Parisienne Serve the broiled steak with maitre d’hotel and Parisienne potatoes. No. 13 Sirloin Steak aux Capes Add capes to the béarnaise sauce and serve. No. 14 Minced Beef à la Provençale Cut up some beef into thin slices; fry onions in oil to a nice brown; add flour, cover with broth with a cut tomato, cloves, garlic, mushrooms, salt and pepper; let it cook for 20 minutes and serve with heart shaped croutons.BEEF 225 No. 15 Minced Beef Portugaise The same as the above; serve with rice timbales and roasted tomatoes. No. 16 Minced Beef Catalane The same as the above; serve with espagnole sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley. No. 17 Broiled Tenderloin of Beef Take a 2 or 3 pound piece of tenderloin; season with salt and pepper and rub with oil; broil it for 5 or 6 minutes on each side; serve with any sauce and garnish. No. 18 Broiled Tenderloin à la Nivernaise Serve with colbert sauce and artichoke bottoms and poached eggs. No. 19 Tenderloin Trianon Serve with chambord sauce. No. 20 Tenderloin Gourmets Serve with sauce montglas, truffles, mushrooms, artichokes and sweetbread. No. 21 Mignons Filets Pompadour Cut fine, tender filet in nice even pieces, flatten them and fry in butter in saucepan; brown on each side; serve with béarnaise sauce, jardinières and croutons. No. 22 Mignons Filets Moille The same as pompadour; make a different sauce and garnish with marrow slices. No. 23 Mignons Filets Russe Marinate the beef for 12 hours; cook in butter and serve with Russian sauce.226 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 24 Mignons Filets Bernardi Serve with any sauce and garnish with rice croustade. No. 25 Mignons Filets Bohémienne Serve with any sauce and garnish with macaroni and cheese quenelles. No. 26 Mignons Filets Parisienne Serve with any sauce and garnish with round shaped croutons or pomme de terre Parisienne. No. 27 Tenderloin Pique Prepare the same as sirloin, without larding; garnish with stuffed tomatoes and add mustard sauce. No. 28 Tenderloin Portugaise Garnish with stuffed tomatoes, meat glacé and potatoes. No. 29 Roast Tenderloin au Hussard Season the tenderloin and roast for 10 minutes; cover with chicken forcemeat, then with bread crumbs; roast again for 30 minutes and serve with a hot sauce. No. 30 Tenderloin Pique Sevigne Serve with sauce supreme and garnish with pastry. No. 31 Tenderloin à P Egyptienne Serve with sauce supreme and garnish with boiled celery roots. No. 32 Tenderloin Richelieu Serve with richelieu sauce and garnish with pastry half-moons.BEEF 227 No. 33 Tenderloin Bernardi Garnish with boiled ham and truffles. No. 34 Porterhouse Steak Prepare a nice porterhouse steak (trimmed) with salt and pepper and baste or brush with oil; broil nicely; brush with butter and garnish the dish with water cress. No. 35 Double Porterhouse Steak The same as the above; broil very slow. No. 36 Hamburg Steak Chop very fine lean beef, add salt and pepper and fry in butter. No. 37 Hamburg Russe Proceed the same as the above, dip in bread crumbs and fry; serve with Russian sauce. No. 38 Hamburg Steak Prussienne Mix the hamburg with an egg before frying and serve with sauce royal. No. 39 Roast Beef The ribs make the best roast, but any good tender meat can be roasted; rub it well with salt, pepper and oil; let it brown nicely, baste it frequently, cover with fresh pork skin if handy; serve plain or with the gravy it has been roasted in. No. 40 Corned Beef Hash Cut through the hashed, boiled corned beef, raw onion, raw potatoes; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add broth; bake in warm oven; serve plain.228 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 41 Corned Beef Hash Polonaise Serve with poached eggs and chopped parsley. No. 42 Corned Beef au Gratin Brown bread crumbs in a frying pan, with butter; put the hash on top; have the hash hot, and put it on the dish the same as you would an omelet. No. 43 Corned Beef Hash Zigara Decorate the dish of hash with slices of tomatoes, fried in bread crumbs. No. 44 Corned Beef Hash en Bordure Work up a border of mashed potatoes on a dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley fried in butter and place the hot hash in the center. No. 45 Corned Beef Hash Royal The same as the above; have poached eggs on top the hash. No. 46 Beef Tongue Piquante Boil a beef tongue in fresh water or broth; skin it and put on dish; cut up or whole; serve with piquante sauce. No. 47 Beef Tongue Napolitaine The same as the above; serve with Napolitaine sauce. No. 48 Beef Tongue Jardinière Serve with hot jardinière. No. 49 Beef Tongue with Spinach Serve with spinach.BEEF 229 No. 50 Beef Tongue au Risotto Serve with risotto. No. 51 Beef Tongue Hollandaise Mix capers with hollandaise sauce and serve with the boiled tongue. No. 52 Roulade of Beef Roll a nice piece brisket, and tie it firmly; put into a sauce pan; a cut-up carrot, onion, thyme, bay-leaf, cloves and shreds of pork; place the meat on top; season with salt and pepper; cover very tight so the steam doesn’t escape and let it simmer gently for half an hour: add broth and cover tight again; place it in a moderate oven for 2 hours; remove the meat and skim the fat off the gravy; strain in sautoir and reduce to one-half; cut up boiled beef tongue in cockscomb shape; add truffles, mushrooms and godiveau quenelles; mix all into the gravy and add tomato sauce and serve with the meat. No. 53 Stewed Beef Egyptienne Brown nice square piece of beef in a saucepan with butter; then add flour; stir briskly; add broth to cover; add tomato sauce, salt, pepper, bouquet; let cook very slow and skim frequently until tender; add pieces of cooked gumbo and celery root and serve. No. 54 Stewed Beef a la Turque Serve with the above stew, rice quenelles; omit gumbo and celery root. No. 55 Beef Stew Country Style Add to plain beef stew, carrots, turnips, potatoes, onions and celery, and sprinkle chopped, fried parsley on top.CHAPTER 9. Tripe No. 1 Tripe Bordelaise Marinate a nice piece of tripe in oil, salt, vinegar, pepper, cloves, bay leaves, garlic and thyme for 2 hours; drain, roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, and again in bread crumbs; fry in butter for 5 minutes on each side and serve with maitre d’hotel butter. No. 2 Tripe Creole Cut tripe in small pieces and fry in a pan with chopped green peppers and onions; let brown, add salt, pepper and nutmeg; cover with sauce espagnole and add a cut-up tomato; serve with chopped, fried parsley sprinkled over it. No. 3 Shredded Tripe Shred tripe and brown with butter; add salt and pepper and let it steam for 10 minutes; add sauce hollandaise and sprinkle with parsley chopped and fried in butter. No. 4 Tripe a la Mode Put into a pot or saucepan, in layers, pieces of ox feet, calves’ feet, double tripe, sliced onions, carrots, salt, pepper, cloves and cider; cover with leek, parsley roots and cabbage leaves; cover so that the steam cannot escape and keep it in a slow oven for 12 hours. No. 5 Tripe Lyonnaise Brown double tripe in butter; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and vinegar; let cook for 10 minutes and add espagnole sauce and sprinkle with parsley, chopped and fried in butter.CHAPTER 10. Veal No. 1 Blanquette of Veal Cook breast of veal in water; take off the scum; add onions, salt, and pepper; when done make a sauce hollandaise with the broth; pour over the meat and serve with some garnish. No 2 Blanquette à la Reine The same as the above; serve with mushrooms. No. 3 Blanquette of Veal with Peas The same as the above; serve with peas. No. 4 Blanquette of Veal with Noodles The same as the above; serve with noodles. No. 5 Brisolin of Veal Cut lean veal 1/^ inch thick, the size of your hand; lard the center with larding pork; lay any forcemeat over this and roll and tie together; brown in saucepan with butter, carrots and onions for 5 minutes; add broth; put in oven for 20 minutes and serve with some garnish. No. 6 Brisolin Ecarlate The same as the above; serve with another garnish. No. 7 Brisolin Nairtaise Serve with sauce royal.232 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 8 Calfs Brains with Black Butter Skin the brains, wash and drain boil in water; add onions, carrots, salt, whole peppers, bay leaf, cloves and thyme; boil for 5 minutes and serve with hot black butter. No. 9 Calfs Brains in Vinegar The same as the above; serve on folded napkin with vinegar sauce. No. 10 Fried Calfs Brains Tar tare Prepare the brains as above; dry them with napkin, dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread crumbs or flour and fry in hot fat and serve with tartare sauce. No. 11 Veal Cutlets New York Chop very fine veal and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add cream and eggs; shape it into chops; sprinkle with bread crumbs and fry in butter for 5 minutes on each side; serve with any sauce. No. 12 Veal Cutlets Marechale Season veal cutlets with salt and pepper; cook in sautoir till done; serve on top of espagnole sauce, mixed with chicken livers, mushrooms, truffles and croutons. No. 13 Veal Cutlets Milanaise Prepare nicely, veal cutlets; season, dip in beaten egg, then in grated cheese, after that in bread crumbs; flatten them and cook in butter in a flat saucepan, and garnish. No. 14 Veal Cutlets with Tomato Sauce The same as above, without the cheese, and serve with tomato sauce. No. 15 Broiled Veal Cutlets Season the cutlets with salt and pepper; rub with oil and broil for 8 minutes on each side; serve with maitre d’hotel over them.VEAL 233 No. 16 Veal Cutlets Philadelphia Stew the cutlets in butter for 15 minutes; serve them with fried onions, espagnole sauce and parsley. No. 17 Veal Oysters Cut nice tenderloin of veal in pieces the size of an oyster, dip in egg white, roll in bread crumbs and fry in butter; serve with a rich cream sauce and garnish with green peas and chopped parsley fried in butter. No. 18 Veal Curry and Rice Cut up veal and blanch in very hard boiling water for two minutes, stir well and drain; now put the veal in warm water and boil with salt, pepper, onions and bouquet till done; make a bechamel sauce, with curry from the broth, put the veal into this and serve in a border of cooked rice. No. 19 Veal Steak Fry veal steak (from the hip), in a pan; season with salt and pepper and serve with any sauce or garnish. No. 20 Escallops of Veal Prepare the same as the steak, only serve with a different sauce and garnish. No. 21 Varieties of Garnishings Potatoes, parisienne, duchesse, soufflés, Saratoga, stuffed green peppers, stuffed tomatoes, mushrooms, truffles, croutons (any shape), quenelles (any kind), rooster combs (cut from boiled tongue), green peas, macaroni, rice, etc., any of these, and a good many more, can be used as a garnish. The experienced cook will know many of the dishes and understand what is required as soon as he sees the name in the book. No. 22 Veal Sweetbreads a la Richelieu Cut up sweetbreads and stew with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little cider for 6 minutes; add truffles and mushrooms and sauce234 THE CHEF DE CUISINE hollandaise; fill scallop shells; sprinkle with bread crumbs and drops of butter; bake for 5 minutes and serve on napkin. No. 23 Minced Veal à la Catalan¿ Mince veal and brown with oil; add chopped onions and green peppers; when a nice color, add flour and mix well; moisten with broth, season with salt, pepper, bouquet, garlic and tomato sauce; cook for 20 minutes, remove the bouquet and serve with parsley chopped and fried in butter. No. 24 Fricandeau with Sorrel Lard a piece of veal from the leg ; season with salt and pepper and place in saucepan, on top of a piece of fresh pork skin, onions, carrots, and bouquet; let it color, then moisten with broth, baste frequently; serve on top of sorrel purée. All fricandeaux are made the same way, with spinach, cabbage, etc. No. 25 Calf s Liver Italienne Stew in butter, liver cut in pieces, with onions and small pieces of garlic; season with salt and pepper; add espagnole sauce, mushrooms and chopped parsley. No. 26 Braised Calfs Liver Lard a piece of calf’s liver and smother in the following: small piece of garlic, onions, cloves, salt, pepper, carrots, bay leaf and thyme; add espagnole sauce and cook for a few minutes; strain the gravy and serve with chopped parsley; garnish with small onions. No. 27 Broiled Calfs Liver and Bacon Slice the liver and broil; garnish with crisp, fried bacon (or broiled), on top; add maitre d’hotel sauce. No. 28 Roast Veal Rub the roast of veal with salt, pepper and flour; put in a moderate oven; cover with paper, baste frequently; add a little broth or water from time to time; skim the fat; when done strain the gravy and serve.VEAL 235 No. 29 Veal with Purée of Peas Cut lean veal in half pound pieces; lard them, smother with carrots, onions and pork scraps, and brown; add salt and pepper, broth or water; cover the saucepan with thick paper and let it roast in the oven till done; serve on top of purée of peas and in its own gravy. No. 30 Grendins of Veal The same as the above; add some other sauce and garnish. No. 31 Veal Sérigné The same as the above, serve with spinach and pastry crescents. No. 32 Veal Africaine The same as the above; serve with egg plant and gumbo. No. 33 Panpiette of Veal Cut the veal into thin slices the size of your hand; season with salt and pepper, cover with some forcemeat; roll and tie them; roll in flour, put them in a saucepan, on pork scraps, onions, carrots, bay leaf, thyme and nutmeg; roast brown and cover with thick paper, add broth, or water, and let cook in the oven for 20 minutes; serve with lentil, purée and chopped parsley. No. 34 Panpiette of Chestnuts The same as the above; substitute chestnuts for lentils. No. 35 Breast of Veal Milanais Bone a breast of veal, season with salt and pepper and stuff it with some forcemeat and tie; cut a few times through the skin; roast it with carrots, onions and baste it frequently; serve on milanais garnishing and pour its own gravy over it. No. 36 Calf’s Feet Split the feet in two, remove the ends, put in fresh water for an hour; drain, sprinkle with flour, cover with cold water and vinegar,236 THE CHEF DE CUISINE bouquet, carrots, onions, salt, whole white peppers; cook for an hour; drain and serve with the sauce desired. No. 37 Calfs Feet Piquante The same as the above; serve with piquante sauce. No. 38 Calfs Feet Rémoulade The same as the above; serve with rémoulade sauce. No. 39 Veal Stew Marengo Cut the veal into medium pieces; wash and drain well; dump in saucepan with plenty of hard boiling water; let it come quickly to a boil again; add salt, then put it to one side on the stove and let it simmer and keep on skimming until done; make a gravy from the broth by frying onions, carrot strips, pepper, bouquet, a few cloves and a little butter and flour; strain the gravy, put the meat into it and serve with croutons. All stews are prepared the same with different sauces and gar-nishings. No. 40 Veal Stew Provinciale With tomato sauce. No. 41 Veal Stew a la Grecque Add a little tomato sauce; cooked celery and okra. No. 42 Veal Stew Portugaise Serve with timbales of cooked rice. No. 43 Veal Stew Solferino Add plenty of vegetables with the stew. No. 44 Veal Stew Hollandaise Prepare a sauce hollandaise from the broth; mix and serve with croutons.VEAL 237 No. 45 Veal Stew Italienne Garnish the veal stew with risotto croquettes. No. 46 Calfs Head Squares Cook a very well cleaned calf’s-head in as little water as possible; season with carrots, salt, whole crushed peppers, nutmeg, bouquet, bay leaf and cloves; let boil till tender, remove the meat and cut it into pieces ; strain the broth and make a béchamel sauce from it ; mix it all well and put in a square tin on buttered paper; let it cool; cut into squares, dip in flour, then in beaten eggs, then in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat; serve with any garnish and sauce. A good many calf’s-head squares can be made in the same way and served with other sauces and garnishings.CHAPTER 11. Sweetbreads No. 1 How to Blanch Sweetbreads Put in cold water for an hour; repeat this three times; place them in cold water again and let them come to a boil; drain cool in cold water; drain again and keep in cold place. No. 2 Braised Sweetbreads Financière Roast the blanched sweetbreads with butter on the stove until brown; then put pork skin, carrots, onions and bouquet under it; add a little broth, salt and whole peppers (crushed) ; cover with thick paper and roast in the oven for 40 minutes; baste occasionally, and serve with sauce financière. No. 3 Varieties of Sweetbreads Sweetbreads are all the same except the sauce; they can be sliced and broiled and served with some sauce, or with the following: sorrel, au salpicon, à la soubise, spinach, à la sauce duxelle, mushroom sauce, sauce béarnaise, aux caper, à la parisienne, godard, montglas; any garnish can be served with sweetbreads, sliced or whole. No. 4 Sweetbread Croquettes Cut the blanched sweetbreads in disks and mix with a strong, stiff béchamel sauce; cut to pieces the size wanted; roll in flour, then dip in beaten eggs and roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat; serve with any sauce or garnish desired. No. 5 Sweetbread Patties Prepare the sweetbreads the same as for croquettes, but do not have the béchamel too thick; fill in hot patties and serve with some garnish. No. 6 Timbales of Sweetbreads The same as for patties, but serve in timbales of puff paste and some garnish.SWEETBREADS 239 No. 7 Coquilles of Sweetbreads Cut prepared or blanched sweetbreads in small pieces, with mushrooms; stew in a little butter with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add a little veloute sauce; fill the shells, cover with bread crumbs and drops of butter and bake in hot oven. No. 8 Sweetbreads Coquilles Royal The same as the above; add truffles. No. 9 Sweetbreads Coquilles Reine Prepare the sweetbreads with tomato sauce and beef tongue; otherwise proceed the same. No. 10 Sweetbreads Cardinal Prepare with a strongly seasoned sauce hollandaise and proceed the same.CHAPTER 12. Mutton or Lamb No. 1 Broiled Mutton Chops Prepare the chops nicely, sprinkle with salt and pepper and dip in oil; broil slowly; serve with garnish if desired. No. 2 Mutton Chops Breaded Dip the chops in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in pan with butter or lard; serve as desired with sauce or garnish. No. 3 Mutton Chops Bretonne Serve broiled mutton chops with purée of beans. No. 4 Mutton Chops Algérienne Serve mutton chops with egg plant. No. 5 Roast Leg of Mutton Rub leg of mutton with pepper and salt and roast in oven; cover with pork skin if at hand, baste frequently. No. 6 Leg of Mutton à la Condé Serve roast leg of mutton with red beans. No. 7 Leg of Mutton Bretonne Serve roast leg of mutton with white beans. No. 8 Boiled Leg of Mutton Boil leg of mutton with salt, pepper and bouquet; serve with sauce hollandaise; mix with capers.MUTTON OR LAMB 241 No. 9 Mutton Hash Grind through the machine: cooked mutton, raw potatoes, onions and season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, moisten with broth or water, and bake for one half hour; arrange nicely on dish and pour espagnole sauce over it. No. 10 Mutton Hash au Gratin Fry bread crumbs with butter to a nice color; put the hot hash into the crumbs and handle as you would an omelet; serve with sauce or garnish as desired. No. 11 Lamb’s Feet a la Poulette Prepare same as calf’s feet and serve with highly seasoned bechamel sauce. No. 12 Mutton Stew Termiere Mutton stews are made the same as veal; serve with cooked beans. No. 13 Mutton Stew Solferino Serve the stew with tomato sauce. No. 14 Mutton Stew Portugaise Serve the stew with stuffed tomato. No. 15 Mutton Stew Italienne Serve the stew with timbales of risotto. No. 16 Irish Mutton Stew Mix into the stew, carrots, small onions, turnips and potato squares. No. 17 Lamb Curry and Rice Put into the gravy, curry and red pepper and serve with boiled rice.242 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 18 Mutton Kidneys en Brochette Clean and split kidneys; season with pepper and salt; roll them in oil; put skewer through kidney (in the center) ; broil 4 minutes on each side and serve with maitre d’hotel. No. 19 Mutton Kidneys Sauté Fry the kidneys in butter with salt and pepper; toss them well for 6 or 7 minutes; serve on top of hot tomato sauce. No. 20 Mutton Kidneys Italienne The same as sauté; serve with risotto. No. 21 Mutton Kidneys Royal Fry the same and serve with mushrooms and truffles. No. 22 Saddle of Mutton Trim the saddle and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and tie it firm; roast it from 40 minutes to 1^4 hours; baste it frequently and when done strain the gravy and serve. No. 23 Saddle of Mutton, Colbert Sauce Serve the mutton with colbert sauce in a bowl. No. 24 Saddle of Mutton with Currant Jelly Serve with hot currant jelly separately. No. 25 Saddle of Mutton with Poivrade Sauce The same; serve with poivrade sauce. Saddle of mutton can be served with a good many sauces and garnishings.MUTTON OR LAMB 243 No. 26 Lamb Fries au Diable Skin the lamb fries and season them in a bowl with oil, salt, cayenne pepper, mustard and lemon juice; mix well and roll in flour; broil or fry them and serve with lemon quarters and a strong sauce. No. 27 Lamb Fries with Tomato Sauce The same as the above; serve with a strong tomato sauce. No. 28 Lamb Fries Royal Season the fries with salt and pepper, dip in beaten eggs and roll in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat for 6 minutes and serve with sauce tartare. No. 29 Ballotin of Lamb Bone a shoulder, but let the end bone remain for handle; season with salt and pepper; sew it up and roast it with pork scraps, onions and a carrot; serve with espagnole sauce and green peas. No. 30 Lamb with Asparagus Tips Cut the stew into nice, even pieces and let it come to a boil in cold water; as soon as it boils; pour off the water and put the lamb in fresh boiling water with bouquet, pepper, salt and very fine chopped onion; when done make from the broth a sauce hollandaise and serve with asparagus tips on top. No. 31 Lamb Stew The same as the above; serve with the plain gravy. No. 32 Curry of Lamb a la Creole Mix into the lamb and curry, boiled pieces of tomatoes and green peppers.244 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 33 Croquettes of Lamb Prepare a thick sauce espagnole; add to this chopped, cooked lamb’s meat; have it well seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg; break into pieces and roll in flour and in beaten eggs; then roll in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat; serve on cooked rice; spread meat glacé over them. No. 34 Lamb Chops Breaded, fried or broiled; may be served with any and all kinds of sauces and garnishes as fancy directs. No. 35 Minced Lamb à VAnglaise Chop onion and fry with butter and flour, and make a béchamel with broth; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg; add finely minced, cooked lamb into this and boil for 10 minutes; serve with fried chopped parsley over it. No. 36 Epigrammes of Lamb Boil the breast of lamb (two or three or whatever is needed) for 45 minutes in the soup stock; drain well and extract all the bones; season well ; lay together evenly to the thickness of an inch and a half ; press down well with a weight; let get cold, then cut in any shape to suit fancy; dip in beaten eggs and roll in bread crumbs; broil 4 minutes on each side, or fry in butter; serve with the sauce and garnish if desired. No. 37 Epigrammes Half-and-Half Serve the above with breaded lamb chops between. No. 38 Shoulder of Lamb Take out the bones; season with salt and pepper and tie up well, and brown in saucepan with onions and carrots for 10 minutes; add broth and espagnole sauce and let cook for 40 minutes; skim the fat; remove the meat to a hot dish and strain the sauce over it; serve with egg plant and gumbo. No. 39 Shoulder of Lamb with Stuffed Tomatoes The same as the above; serve with stuffed tomatoes.MUTTON OR LAMB 245 No. 40 Shoulder of Lamb Jardinière The same as the above; serve with jardinière. No. 41 Shoulder of Lamb Espagnole The same as the above; serve with stuffed green peppers. No. 42 Shoulder of Lamb Flamand Serve with cooked carrots, turnips and red cabbage. No. 43 Hash of Lamb à la Polonaise Run through the machine: cooked Iamb, raw potatoes and onions; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg; cook or bake with broth for 40 minutes; serve with poached eggs on top and sprinkle with fried chopped parsley. No. 44 Ragout of Lamb Cut the neck, shoulder or breast of lamb in nice square pieces, brown them in a saucepan with small onions, carrots, salt and pepper; sprinkle with flour and stir well ; moisten with broth or water ; let come to a boil and skim well; add a crushed clove, bouquet and a piece of garlic ; let boil for 45 minutes ; remove the bouquet and serve with lima beans. No. 45 Breast of Lamb Jardinière Boil the breast, remove the bones and season, and put together under a heavy weight, one inch in thickness; cut each breast in two; rub with oil, roll in bread crumbs and broil or fry; serve with hot jardinière. No. 46 Lamb Stew Lamb stew is made the same as any other stew or ragout; garnish as desired; serve with oyster plant, lima beans, peas, string beans, rice, macaroni and potatoes parisienne.246 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 47 Lamb’s Kidneys Split the kidneys, put in saucepan with cold water and bring to a near boiling ; repeat three times, each time with fresh water ; drain and rub with oil, season with pepper and salt, dip in beaten eggs and broil or fry; serve with colbert or any sauce or garnish desired, or with fried or broiled bacon. No. 48 Lamb Steak Cut the steak from the leg and flatten; season with salt and pepper, rub with oil and broil; serve with purée of peas, beans or lentils, piquante sauce or what ever is desired.CHAPTER 13. Pork No. 1 Black, or Blood Sausage Broil or fry the sausage and arrange on hot mashed potatoes. No. 2 Suckling Pig, Apple Sauce Have pig clean and dry; sprinkle with salt, pepper and nutmeg; fill with stuffing (A) sew up the aperture, put in roasting pan (resting on its four legs) and cover with strong paper; roast for two or more hours; baste frequently; serve with apple sauce. No. 3 Boiled Ham Take a ham, weighing 7 or 8 pounds, let it stand in water over night, then let it boil in fresh water for two hours; trim and ornament its large bone with ruffled paper; serve with any sauce. No. 4 Cold Boiled Ham The same as above; serve cold. No. 5 Roast Ham Roast the boiled ham, with a sprinkle of powdered sugar on top, for 15 minutes. No. 6 Roast Ham with Corn Serve the ham with creamed corn. No. 7 Roast Ham with Spinach Serve the ham with spinach. No. 8 Cold Ham with Apple Jelly- Chop white apple jelly (not too fine) and serve the ham with a border of this around it.248 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 9 Pig's Cheek with Spinach Take lean smoked or fresh pig cheeks, soak in cold water over night; boil about two hours, remove the rind and skin, then remove the bone and serve on hot spinach; if fresh meat is used, season with salt and pepper. No. 10 Broiled Pig's Feet Split the boiled pig’s feet in two, season with salt and pepper, rub with oil, roll in bread crumbs and broil; this can be served with any sauce or garnish. No. 11 Pig's Feet in Jelly Take young, tender and very clean pig’s feet; boil very tender in a little spiced water and vinegar; strain broth, remove the meat from the hone and skin; chop (not too fine) and divide the broth and meat evenly in cups ; put on ice and serve with lettuce leaves. No. 12 Country Sausage Brown an onion in fat or butter; prick the sausage and fry in same fat; then add espagnole sauce; cook again for 5 minutes and serve with chopped parsley. No. 13 Sausage Anglaise Put the above prepared sausage on toast and pour the espagnole sauce, mixed with a little cider, over it. No. 14 Sausage Italienne The same as the Anglaise, add chopped mushrooms. No. 15 Sausage with Cabbage Serve the fried sausage on top of the cabbage. No. 16 Sausage Paysanne Serve the fried or baked sausage with purée of red beans.PORK 249 No. 17 Sausage Royal Arrange on a baking dish, mashed potatoes; flatten with a knife and press crisscross; wash with beaten eggs, bake nice and brown, and arrange the baked or fried sausage on top and serve with maître d’hotel. No. 18 Sausage à la Mexico Mash cooked red beans into a stiff paste; form very small thick pancakes, dip in beaten eggs, then in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat; arrange the sausage on top and serve with maître d’hotel. No. 19 Pork Tenderloin Season with salt and pepper and roast the loin; baste frequently; serve with any sauce desired. No. 20 Pork Chops Fried, broiled, baked or breaded; can be served with mashed potatoes, puréee of peas or beans, apple sauce, jelly, maitre d’hotel, or whatever is desired. No. 21 Roasted Fresh Pork Roast quantity desired of well-seasoned pork and baste frequently; when done skin the fat and serve with its own gravy. No. 22 Pork and Beans Soak white beans over night; put in earthen pot or dish, season with salt, pepper and brown sugar or molasses; add a little water and put the pork on top; cover with thick paper and cook for 2 or 3 hours in oven and serve with the pork on top.CHAPTER 14. Poultry No. 1 Chicken Roasted, Plain Truss a chicken of about 3 pounds; place in roasting pan, with a sprinkle of salt; cover with pork skin and while roasting baste frequently; it will take about one hour to roast; serve with water cress and its own gravy. No. 2 Chicken Broiled with Bacon Split tender spring chicken (without separating) ; season with salt and pepper* rub with oil; broil for 9 minutes on each side; arrange on toast and serve with maitre d’hotel. No. 3 Chicken Potpie Cut up a chicken (one or more as required), cook, add salt, pepper and onion and thicken; add some very small potatoes, bay leaf, bouquet and crushed whole white peppers; when done remove the bouquet and bay leaf, place in baking dish, cover with pie crust and bake. No. 4 Chicken Croquettes Cut up chicken and mix with a stiff béchamel; season well, cut into the size wanted, roll in flour and fry in hot fat; serve with sauce à la Reine. Chicken croquettes can be prepared by adding mushrooms and truffles and can be served with different sauces. No. 5 Croustade of Chicken Cut up the white chicken meat; add to this a hot-well-seasoned béchamel and the croustades and serve on folded napkin. No. 6 Croustade of Chicken Livers Mix the stewed, chopped chicken livers into a hot espagnole sauce; fill the croustades and serve on a folded napkin.POULTRY 251 No. 7 Chicken Liver Patties The patties are filled with the same preparation as above; serve with cooked green peas. No. 8 Chicken Liver Timbales The same preparation as for patties; serve on a folded napkin. No. 9 Stewed Chicken Livers Fry the chicken livers in butter; season with salt, pepper and a little cider; mix with hot espagnole sauce and serve on hot toast. No. 10 Chicken Livers with Mushrooms The same as the above; add mushrooms. No. 11 Chicken Livers en Brochette Arrange the chicken livers nicely on silver skewers; season with salt and pepper; roll in oil, then in bread crumbs and fry; arrange on dish with maitre d’hotel poured over them. No. 12 Chicken Livers en Brochette with Bacon The same as the above, without the sauce but broiled bacon slices on top. No. 13 Chicken Livers Saute Italienne Make a stew of the livers and serve with cooked fine herbs. No. 14 Chicken Saute a la Merango Cut up a tender chicken in 6 or 8 pieces; smother in an onion and a little butter, salt and pepper; when done, add espagnole sauce with truffles and mushrooms; serve on heart-shaped toast, with fried eggs if desired.252 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 15 Chicken Sauté Hongroise Prepare chicken as above with béchamel and cream; serve with bread croutons around the chicken. No. 16 Chicken Sauté with Tarragon The same as the above; serve with tarragon leaves. No. 17 Chicken Sauté au Chasseur The same as the above, just add another sauce. No. 18 Sauté of Chicken à la Hollandaise The same; serve with sauce hollandaise and artichokes. No. 19 Chicken Sauté à la Régence The same, but serve with régence sauce and truffles, mushrooms, sweetbreads, and small pieces of cooked beef tongue. No. 20 Chicken Sauté Bohémienne Prepare the chicken the usual way; serve with small bouchettes (all around the chicken), which have been filled with macaroni mixed with chicken gravy and some espagnole sauce. No. 21 Boiled Chicken and Cream Have boiled well-done chicken hot; cover with a hot, well-seasoned béchamel (made from chicken broth) and serve. No. 22 Chicken Fricasse à la Reine Cook the chicken with bouquet, bay leaf, cloves, crushed whole white peppers and salt when done; make a sauce hollandaise, with the broth, add mushrooms, truffles and serve with croutons all around the chicken.POULTRY 253 No. 23 Chicken à la Turque Chop up tender chicken in about 12 pieces; fry with butter, onions, salt and green peppers; when brown cook in broth or water until tender; add tomato sauce, mushrooms, diluted saffron and cooked rice and serve. No. 24 Chicken Créole The same as the above; serve with stewed tomatoes. No. 25 Chicken with Rice Make a nice chicken stew and serve in center of a border of cooked rice. No. 26 Chicken a la Maryland Cut tender chicken in 4, 6 or 8 pieces; season with salt and pepper; dip in beaten eggs, then in bread crumbs; bake nice and brown in baking pan under paper; put on dish in a bechamel sauce and arrange broiled bacon on top. No. 27 Supreme of Chicken Toulouse From very young chicken remove the skin from the breast; cut the meat carefully from the carcass (including the wing bones); cut into the breast one inch deep and three inches long and fill with chicken forcemeat, sliced truffles and mushrooms, and season; rub with oil, and brown nicely; steam until done, put on dish, pour clarified butter over it and garnish; put ruffled papers on the wing bones. No. 28 Supreme of Chicken Impérial The same as the above; serve with another sauce and garnish. No. 29 Supreme of Chicken a la Reine The same as the above but with another dressing and sauce.254 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 30 Chicken Curry à l’Indienne Cut up chicken and boil in water with salt, pepper, nutmeg, bouquet and onion, until tender; make a béchamel from the broth and curry and egg yolk; place a border of rice on a dish, put the chicken in the center and pour the béchamel over it. No. 31 Chicken Curry Espagnole The same as the above; decorate the rice with cooked tomatoes and green peppers. No. 32 Chicken in Jelly Have white meat of chicken cooked in spicy liquid of calf’s feet; divide the meat into the number of cups needed; pour the strained liquid over it and serve with lettuce leaves, cold.CHAPTER 15. Turkey No. 1 Turkey Boiled a I’Anglaise Boil a tender turkey in the stock pot; serve on spinach with lean cooked ham. _T _ No. 2 Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce The same as the above; serve with celery sauce in place of spinach. No. 3 Boiled Turkey, Oyster Sauce The same; serve with oyster sauce. No. 4 Boiled Turkey, Egg Sauce The same; serve with egg sauce. No. 5 Boast Turkey Season with salt and pepper; put in roasting pan with a little water and roast till tender; baste frequently; serve with the gravy; when roasting cover with pork skin or thick paper. No. 6 Roast Turkey, Stuffed Prepare the Turkey and fill with hot dressing (A); roast as above. _T _ No. 7 Roast Turkey Flamande Prepare the Turkey; mix into the stuffing (A) a hand full of muscatel raisins, some chopped green apples and some sugar. No. 8 Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing Mix into the stuffing (A) boiled chestnut pieces. No. 9 Hashed Turkey Cut up the cooked turkey meat; mix with chopped raw potatoes; season with salt, pepper, finely chopped onion and a little nutmeg; moisten and bake under thick paper.256 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 10 Hashed Turkey Royal Mix the cut-up meat with bechamel and serve with heart-shaped croutons; garnish with pâté de foie gras. No. 11 Turkey Hash Polonaise Serve the royal hash with poached eggs on top. No. 12 Turkey Hash à la Bechamel Cover the hash with bechamel sauce and sprinkle with parsley, which has been fried in butter. No. 13 Hashed Turkey en Bordure Arrange the above turkey, â la béchamel, with a border of potato croquettes. No. 14 Breast of Turkey Royal Pot-roast the detached breast till tender, with hay-leaf, bouquet, crushed whole peppers, salt, onions and carrots; thicken the gravy, strain and serve. No. 15 Breast of Turkey à la Reine The same as above; cut-up the liver of the turkey, or chicken, into large pieces and arrange all around the roast; coVer with espagnole sauce. No. 16 Boned Turkey in Jelly Cut the meat from the bones very carefully without cutting off the skin; stretch it flat, skin down; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg; even it up and cover with the following forcemeat: cut very fine in the machine, raw veal and pork; add salt, pepper and nutmeg; roll this into the boned turkey; roll it tightly together and sew it in a cloth; let it cook very gently, in highly seasoned water, for two hours; skim very carefully; take out of the liquid and take out of cloth; add to the liquid the broth of calf’s feet or pig’s feet, with egg whites and let it come to a boil; take off the fire and strain through a cloth; put in dish to harden and serve the meat and jelly cold, nicely arranged on a dish.CHAPTER 16. Game No. 1 Roast Goose, Stuffed Prepare the goose; stuff with stuffing (A) ; always add apples with goose stuffing and envelop in paper; roast till tender, skim off the fat, add broth, boil and thicken; strain and serve. No. 2 Timbales Foie Gras Butter the timbale molds; decorate the sides and bottom, as fancy directs, with beef tongue, truffles or macaroni; fill with creamed forcemeat; add pâté de foie gras in the middle; bake in water under thick paper for 20 minutes; remove from molds on hot dish, decorate the top with some garnish; serve with colbert sauce. No. 2-A Vol au Vent, or Patty Shells The large ones, which are 6 or 7 inches in diameter, as a rule are filled with boned pot-roasted meat of some kind; the small ones are filled with creamed oysters, shrimps, chicken, turkey, goose livers, etc., and garnished with peas; different cream sauces are used, all highly seasoned. No. 3 Pigeon Cutlets Take out the bones but leave the legs; season, cut in two and stuff with chicken forcemeat; roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, then in bread crumbs; cook in butter 5 minutes on each side; serve on colbert sauce, put ruffled papers on legs. No. 4 Pigeon Cutlets Royal The same as above; arrange mushrooms and truffles around them. No. 5 Squabs on Toast with Bacon Stuff with chicken forcemeat; season with salt and pepper and form them into round shape; roast for 15 minutes, under thick paper; serve on toast with broiled bacon on top and maitre d’hotel sauce.258 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 6 Roasted Squabs, Plain Roast the squabs as above; untruss and dress on canape or toast; skim the fat and add broth to the gravy; let boil, strain and serve. No. 7 Broiled Squabs Split and break the bones; flatten; season with salt and pepper; dust with flour, dip in, eggs, then in bread crumbs; broil for 6 or 7 minutes on each side and serve plain with mushrooms, truffles, broiled bacon; on toast, or with any sauce or garnish. No. 8 Compote of Squabs Cut up onion and mushrooms and fry in butter; prepare carrots and potatoes Parisienne shape; add espagnole sauce and put all together; add browned-in-butter squabs; let the whole cook for 30 minutes, with a good seasoning; put the garnish on dish and the squabs on top. No. 9 Roast Duck Season with salt and pepper, and stuff with dressing (A) or American forcemeat; roast for 40 or 50 minutes, under cover of thick paper, with a little butter; baste frequently, skim the fat, add a little broth to the gravy and cook; strain and serve with fried hominy. No. 10 Roast Duck and Apple Sauce The same as above; serve with apple sauce. No. 11 Roast Duckling Season duckling and roast with butter; add espagnole sauce and cook for 10 minutes; serve with small potatoes and turnips Parisienne. No. 12 Salmis of Duck Cut up the legs, wings and breast; season well and roast in butter in a hot oven; cook the carcass with broth for 20 minutes; add to theKITCHEN GAME 259 reduced broth espagnole sauce; serve with toast, (heart or diamond-shape), or fried hominy. All salmis are prepared the same way; served with different sauces. No. 13 Canapés for Game Cut a slice of bread 1 or 2 inches thick; cut the crust and cut out a piece in the center, but not all the way through; butter and roast in oven nice and brown. No. 14 Game Croquettes The same as chicken; serve with the sauce desired. No. 15 Roast Quails Roast the quails in butter, in a saucepan; when brown add a little broth and seasoning; cook for 20 minutes and serve with toast and gravy. No. 16 Broiled Quails ivith Bacon Split the quails through the back, but leave together; sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in oil and broil for 6 or 7 minutes, on each side; serve with maitre d’ hotel on toast and broiled bacon. No. 17 Braised Quails Truss and let them smother, with pork rind, onions, carrots, bouquet, salt and pepper; when brown add a little water, and when done, serve with some sauce and garnish. Doe-birds, partridge, grouse, teal duck, plover, snipe, woodcock, canvas-back, reed birds, all these are broiled, fried, braised, roasted, and worked up, garnished and served in the same way as the foregoing poultry and game.CHAPTER 17. Venison No. 1 Saddle of Venison with Jelly Pare a saddle of venison; remove the sinews, and lard it very fine; tie it up nicely, put to roast with carrots, onions, pork rind and salt; roast in a hot oven for 40 or 50 minutes, and baste; when done skim the fat, strain and serve with currant jelly on the side. No. 2 Venison Steak Take the knuckles out of the leg and cut the steak nicely; trim and flatten, sprinkle with salt, pepper and nutmeg; roll in oil and broil for 5 or 6 minutes on each side; serve with different sauces and garnishes. All venison steaks or chops are prepared the same way; broiled or fried, only served with different sauces and garnishes. Serve with maitre d’ hotel, colbert sauce, sauté béarnaise, purée of chestnuts, mashed potatoes, sauce poivrade, etc. No. 3 Civet of Venison Cut lean venison into small pieces and put in earthen pot, with pepper, salt, onion, thyme, bay-leaf, whole peppers and vinegar, for 12 hours; drain the juice and brown the venison in a saucepan, or sautoir, with oil; add a little flour, mix well and moisten with broth, also the strained marinade liquid; let it cook for 40 minutes, or until done; serve with chopped parsley sprinkled over it. No. 4 Civet of Venison Parisienne Serve the above with mushrooms and croutons. No. 5 Venison Pie Fry small pieces of venison in a saucepan, with a little oil; add to this very small pieces of salt pork; add a little flour, stir well and moisten with broth or water; add small onions, bouquet, salt, pepperVENISON 261 and nutmeg; let cook for 45 minutes; put the stew in baking pan, cover with pie crust, wet the top with egg wash, cut hole in middle and bake nice and brown. Antelope, or any animal of the deer kind, is prepared the same way as in venison recipes. No. 6 Fillets of Hare Sauce Pairade Lard the surface of the hare with small needle; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; put in saucepan with onion, carrot, bouquet and some cider, and let stand for an hour or so; put in pan and roast till well done; place on dish, add a little flour to the gravy, cook with broth, strain and pour over the fillets. No. 7 Hare Hollandaise Cut the hare in 6 equal pieces; lard them, then put in oil, salt, pepper and nutmeg, for 20 minutes, roll frequently; then roll them in flour so that they have a good coating; place in roasting pan, with a sprinkle of butter over them; cover with bacon rind and thick pepper and roast, till done; baste frequently; serve with sauce piquante.CHAPTER 18. Vegetables No. 1 Stuffed Artichokes Parboil them; pare top and bottom; fill with the following preparation; cut-up shallot and cook in butter for 10 minutes, add chopped mushrooms, parsley and chervil; season and cook all 5 minutes more; serve with sauce hollandaise. No. 2 Stuffed Artichokes Indienne Parboil and prepare the same as the above and stuff with following; chop up shallot, green pepper, mushrooms, and cook with butter for 10 minutes ; add chopped cooked ham, boiled rice and season with salt and pepper; fill, sprinkle the roasting pan with chopped carrot, bay-leaf, thyme and a little broth ; place on top of the artichokes a square piece of bacon and bake for 40 minutes, covered; serve with béchamel. No. 3 Artichoke Sautés Trim and prepare and remove the chokes; parboil in water, salt and vinegar for 5 minutes; drain and steam for 25 minutes in sautoir with butter, salt and pepper and serve with any sauce desired. No. 4 Fried Artichokes Trim neatly and cut in fours; roll in vinegar, oil, salt, pepper and nutmeg; then dip in frying batter and fry in hot fat till brown; place on dish and sprinkle with fried parsley. Artichokes can be prepared in many different ways—all that is needed is a different sauce and stuffing, which the experienced cook will be able to compose without trouble. No. 5 Asparagus Hollandaise Bunch the asparagus in even lengths and tie; cook in salt water for 20 minutes, drain, untie and serve with sauce hollandaise.VEGETABLES 263 No. 6 Asparagus Vinaigrette The same as the above; serve with sauce vinaigrette, hot or cold. No. 7 Asparagus Swiss Bunch and cook for 12 minutes; put on dish in layers, with fried onions and grated cheese between; sprinkle with bread crumbs and bake for 15 minutes. No. 8 Fried Egg Plant Peel and cut in slices one-half inch thick, season with salt and pepper, dip in frying batter and cook in hot fat; serve on folded napkin. No. 9 Broiled Egg Plant Peel and cut in slices one-half inch thick, season with salt and pepper, dip in oil, then in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and broil for 5 minutes, on each side; serve with maitre d’hotel sauce. No. 10 Beets Cook in salt water and a little vinegar; when done, put in cold water and peel; slice and put in stone jar; cover with vinegar; season with whole peppers, powdered sugar, bay-leaf and cloves; serve as a salad or garnish. No. 11 Beet Sauté Cut the boiled beets into squares and steam in butter, pepper and a little sugar and serve in a vegetable dish. No. 12 Stewed Mushrooms Cut in slices, sprinkle in oil with salt and pepper, stir occasionally for two hours; stew them for 6 minutes and serve with fried and chopped parsley, chive, garlic and cloves. No. 13 Mushroom Sauté on Toast Prepare the above stew without the garlic and serve on toast.264 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 14 Mushroom Sauté à la Cream To the above preparation add velouté sauce and serve with heart-shaped croutons. No. 15 Mushrooms Broiled on Toast Put the mushrooms in salt, pepper and oil; arrange on broiler and broil for 4 minutes on each side; put on toast and maitre d’hotel sauce over them. No. 16 Cabbage Cut the cabbage in 6 or 8 pieces; wash and drain well, put in saucepan with salt, pepper and plenty of fat and let it steam, tidily covered, till done. No. 17 Cabbage with Cream Add to the well-done cabbage hot béchamel and mix. No. 18 Stuffed Cabbage Cut off the root and the hard outside leaves; parboil for 10 minutes; take up carefully and drain; season with salt and pepper and fill with sausage forcemeat; place on cheese cloth and tie on top and bake for an hour or so: Stuffed cabbage can be made with one leaf; parboil the whole leaf and roll the sausage forcemeat into it; tie well and finish the same as the above. No. 19 Brussels Sprouts Sautes au Beurre Parboil the sprouts for 10 minutes; drain, douse them with cold water and drain once more; stew in butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley. No. 20 Brussels Sprouts à la Cream Add to the above prepared sprouts, velouté cream and a little sweet cream. No. 21 Sauerkraut Steam the well-washed sauerkraut, with salt pork and whole white peppers; add a grated raw potato; mix water when boiling.VEGETABLES 265 No. 22 Cauliflower with Butter Cook the cauliflower sprouts in salt water, till done, or about 30 minutes; drain, put in dish and cover with hot béchamel. No. 23 Cauliflower au Gratin Place the cooked cauliflower on a baking dish; cover with béchamel, grated cheese, bread crumbs and drops of butter and bake brown. No. 24 Carrots Sauté Cut the carrots 1% inches long and the thickness of a pencil; steam with salt, pepper and fat, with a little water, for 20 minutes, or till done; add a little butter and chopped parsley. No. 25 Carrots Sauté à la Cream Add to the above, hot béchamel. No. 26 Celery Cut the celery in pieces l%inches long; stew the same as carrots sauté and season the same. No. 27 Creamed Celery The same as the creamed carrots. No. 28 Celery with Marrow Sauce Cut the celery 1 or 2 inches long; prepare the same as the above; cook into béarnaise sauce, marrow pieces one half inch thick, and cover the celery with it. No. 29 Chicory Blanch the chicory; drain and press out the water; chop up and cook with butter; add cream or milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg; the chicory must not be watery; serve with heart-shaped croutons.266 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 30 Cucumbers a la Poulette Peel and slice in 1% inch pieces; blanch in salt water for 5 minutes; drain, put in saucepan with butter and a little flour and moisten with broth; season with salt and pepper and boil for 15 minutes; add chopped parsley, nutmeg, cream and egg yolk and stir well and serve. No. 31 Cucumbers a la Bechamel Cook the blanched cucumbers in bechamel; add butter, nutmeg and a little milk or cream; cook for 15 minutes. No. 32 Stuffed Cucumbers Peel carefully; cut off the ends and remove all seeds with vegetable spoon; blanch them for 3 minutes in boiling water, dump in cold water and drain well; fill with chicken forcemeat; put in roasting pan on thick buttered paper; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add butter and cover with thick paper and put in oven for 20 minutes; serve with any sauce. No. 33 Spinach Wash in two or three waters, take off the stalk; put in boiling water and boil for 15 minutes; put in cold water and drain well; chop fine on wooden board; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; heat and serve. No. 34 Spinach Royal The same as the above; a little flour and butter kneaded together and mixed in the spinach; cook for 5 minutes. Serve spinach with hard-boiled eggs and fried croutons. No. 35 String Beans Prepare the beans in the usual way; wash well and put in boiling water; boil for 20 minutes or until done; dump in cold water again, then put on the fire with salt, pepper, nutmeg and butter and cook for 5 minutes. No. 36 String Beans with Cream Add to the above prepared beans, a cupful of fresh cream or a very thin béchamel sauce.VEGETABLES 267 No. 37 String Beans Plain Prepare the string beans; wash well, put on fire with butter or fat, salt, pepper and a little sugar; steam slowly until done. No. 38 String Beans with Parsley Prepare plain beans and serve with chopped, fried-in-butter parsley sprinkled over. No. 39 Beans Panachée, or Succotash String beans and lima beans, half and half, mixed after cooking, and served with butter and chopped fried parsley. No. 40 Red Beans Clean and wash and soak in water over night, parboil with a little soda for 10 minutes, then put on fire with fresh water—very early, as dried beans often have to cook a very long time, add butter or pork fat, whole onion, clove, bouquet, salt and pepper. Dried beans (red, white and lima), split peas or lentils, should always be soaked and prepared the same as the red beans. No. 41 Spanish Beans Add to the boiled beans, Spanish or tomato sauce, very strongly, seasoned. No. 42 Fresh Lima Beans Take fresh shelled or unshelled beans; parboil in salt water for 20 minutes; drain and let cool in fresh water; drain again and put in saucepan, with butter or pork fat, salt, pepper and nutmeg. No. 43 Stuffed Lettuce The lettuce is prepared the same as the stuffed cabbage. No. 44 Macaroni with Cream Boil the macaroni for 20 minutes in water; drain, put back in saucepan, add butter, salt, pepper and sweet cream.268 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 45 Macaroni and Cheese Add to the above prepared macaroni, grated cheese, mixed with red pepper and a little curry. No. 46 Macaroni Napolitaine Add to the marcaroni with cream, espagnole sauce, mushrooms and cooked, smoked beef tongue. No. 47 Italienne Macaroni Add to the creamed macaroni, tomato sauce. Spaghetti and noodles are prepared the same way as macaroni. No. 48 Noodles for Soup, Etc. Take 5 eggs, the same amount of water and a little salt; make a stiff dough or paste; roll out very thin, let dry on clean flour sack, cut in strips and dump in boiling salt water; cook for 15 minutes; drain and handle the same as marcaroni or spaghetti. No. 49 Boiled Green Corn Prepare the corn and cook for 20 minutes in salt water; serve on folded napkin. No. 50 Corn Sauté Cut the corn from the cobs, after boiling; put in saucepan with butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg; heat and serve. No. 51 Corn with Cream Add to the above corn a little béchamel. No. 52 Corn Fritters Mix the boiled corn into a rich, hot cake batter and fry in hot fat.VEGETABLES 269 No. 53 Corn Masteles Mix in a bowl a little flour, butter, sugar, an egg or two and milk, add to this corn sauté; put on buttered baking pan with spoon; wash with egg and bake in hot oven. No. 54 Turnips Prepare and parboil whole turnips for 5 minutes; place in a flat saucepan with butter and sugar until brown; add broth, and cook till done, with salt, pepper and cinnamon stick; put on dish, add to the sauce a little cornstarch; cover the turnips and serve. No. 55 Onions with Cream Boil medium onions in water with salt and bouquet, for 50 minutes; drain, put on dish and cover with cream or béchamel. No. 56 Fried Onions (A) Take medium onions, put them in milk, then in flour and fry in hot fat for 8 or 10 minutes; serve on folded napkin. No. 57 Stuffed Onions Empty the center of the onions; parboil for two minutes; drain upside down, fill with sausage forcemeat, put in buttered baking pan, season with salt and pepper, add broth; bake under buttered paper for 50 minutes; place in dish with the gravy strained over them. No. 58 Fried Onions (B) Cut up the onions and fry in butter till nice and brown. No. 59 Stuffed Peppers Skin the peppers, fry in hot fat for one minute; cut off the top (or bottom), clean the inside and fill with sausage forcemeat; put top on and place in baking pan; moisten with oil and bake for 15 minutes, serve with meat glacé.270 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 60 Green Peas Boil the peas in plenty of water, for 15 minutes, skim off the scum and strain; put in saucepan with salt, pepper, a little sugar and butter, heat and serve with chopped, fried parsley sprinkled over them. No. 61 Boiled Potatoes, Plain Peel the potatoes a half inch all around; boil until done and serve on a napkin. No. 62 Broiled Potatoes Peel good sized potatoes, cut in half (lengthwise); sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in oil and broil for 4 minutes on each side. No. 63 Fried Potatoes Slice boiled potatoes and fry in frying pan with butter, salt and pepper. No. 64 Potatoes Maitre d’Hotel Add to the above fried potatoes, maitre d’hotel butter and sprinkle parsley, chopped and fried in butter, over them No. 65 Potatoes Parisienne Scoop the potatoes, with a vegetable spoon, the size of a marble; wash and place in a saucepan with butter, and steam until done. , No. 66 Potatoes a Cru The same as Parisienne, but have them clove shape. No. 67 Potatoes Italienne Mash the potatoes and add soaked bread (without the crust), pressed well; mix all well with salt, pepper, egg yolks, milk and nutmeg; beat the whites to a stiff froth and mix all; put on dish, rough-like, and bake nice and brown.VEGETABLES 271 No. 68 Potatoes Lyonnaise Cut up boiled potatoes and sliced, fried onions; add salt and pepper; put all in frying pan with butter and fry till nice and brown. No. 69 Stuffed Potatoes Peel large potatoes, cut in two lengthwise, scoop out the center and fill with forcemeat; bake until brown and done, in buttered baking pan; serve with chopped parsley fried in butter. No. 70 Potato Croquettes Mash potatoes very fine and without a lump; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, egg yolk and butter; roll in the shape desired; dip in beaten eggs and roll in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat till nice and brown; serve in folded napkin. No. 71 Potatoes a la Duchesse Squeeze the above preparation on a baking tin, through a pastry bag, with a star tube; brush with egg and bake nice and brown. No. 72 Potato Soufflé Cut peeled potatoes in strips % inch in thickness; fry in soft, heated fat for 8 minutes; lift them and, after a minute, plunge them in hot fat, which will make them swell; serve on folded napkin. No. 73 Saratoga Potatoes Very thin sliced potatoes fried in hot fat. No. 74 Potato Pudding Italienne Butter an oval mold and put into it very thin sliced potatoes; salt and pepper and sprinkle with grated cheese, very thick; put over this another layer of potatoes; salt and pepper and butter; bake for 30 minutes, turn upside down on hot dish; remove from mold, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.272 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 75 Julienne Potatoes The same as Soufflé, but fried once in hot fat. No. 76 Straw, or Corkscrew Potatoes These are fried in hot fat; the shape is as the name implies. No. 77 Boiled Rice Boil a cup of rice in 1% quarts water (cold) for 20 minutes; drain in colander, put in saucepan with salt and butter, and let steam for 5 minutes. No. 78 Risotto Fry a finely chopped onion and a cup of rice in butter, until gold color; add, gradually, broth and keep stirring until done; season with salt and pepper. To tlie above risotto can be added; truffles, mushrooms, cheese, chicken meat, Spanish saffron and marrow, according to desire. No. 79 Oyster Plant Clean and put in cold water for 10 minutes ; drain, put in saucepan with a spoonful of flour and vinegar and plenty of water; cook 40 minutes; drain, steam with salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and chopped parsley for 5 minutes. No. 80 Oyster Plant à la Poulette The same as the above, serve with béchamel sauce. No. 81 Fried Oyster Plant Prepare as the above; then dip in batter and fry in hot fat. No. 82 Stuffed Tomatoes Have even sized tomatoes; cut off the top and scoop out; add to this bread crumbs, fried onions, chopped mushrooms, parsley, salt,VEGETABLES 273 pepper and a little butter and sausage meat; cook this and fill the tomatoes; bake them on tin for 20 minutes under thick greased paper. Stuffed green peppers and egg plant are stuffed the same as tomatoes, but using only meat for filling. Stuffed tomatoes, egg plant and peppers are served with maitre d’hotel sauce. No. 83 Broiled Tomatoes Slice good sized, solid tomatoes; sprinkle with salt and pepper and rub with oil and broil for 8 minutes on each side. No. 84 Stewed Tomatoes Peel the tomatoes and cut in 6 or 8 pieces; place in saucepan with butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg; steam for 15 minutes. No. 85 Okra, Boiled Prepare and boil in salt water for 15 minutes; drain, this can be used for salads and sauté. No. 86 Macedoine and Jardiniere These are mixtures of the following vegetables: carrots, turnips, peas, string beans, lima beans and cauliflower, salt, pepper, nutmeg and butter; add to the macédoine, béchamel, and to the jardinière, sauce hollandaise. The above can be used as vegetable, or in soups. No. 87 Hubbard Squash, Baked Peel and cut up nicely; put on buttered baking tin; sprinkle with salt, white pepper and nutmeg and rub butter over it; bake under greased paper till done. No. 88 Hominy Boil the hominy in water with salt and a little butter for about 30 minutes. No. 89 Fried Hominy Put boiled hominy in a flat tin and when cold, cut; dip in egg and bread crumbs and fry in hot fat.CHAPTER 19. Salads No. 1 French Dressing Put in bottle: vinegar, salad oil, salt, pepper and tarragon leaves; shake before using. No. 2 Anchovy Salad Soak the anchovy in cold water to remove the salt; remove the bones; cut up lettuce in small pieces and put in salad bowl, with French dressing, stoned olives and capers; mix all and decorate with hard boiled egg quarters and beet root. No. 3 Beef Salad Mix in howl very thin sliced boiled beef; cut up boiled potatoes; mix with French dressing and decorate with pickles, beet roots and chopped parsley. No. 4 Cauliflower Salad Season in bowl, boiled cauliflower tops with French dressing and place on dish and decorate with chopped parsley and lettuce leaves. No. 5 Celery Salad Mix young white celery with mayonnaise dressing; put on dish with lettuce leaves and decorate nicely. No. 6 Chicken Salad Cut up boiled chicken and mix with cut-up young celery and mayonnaise dressing and a little finely chopped onion; put on dish with lettuce leaves and decorate with hard boiled eggs, chopped parsley, olives, capers and beet root. No. 7 Chicory Salad Prepare nice young chicory; wash and drain well; mix with French dressing and serve plain.SALADS 275 No. 8 Crab Salad Pick the meat from a hard-shelled crab; mix with cut-up celery, a little finely-cut potato; mix with mayonnaise and serve on lettuce leaves; decorate in a nice way. No. 9 Dandelion Salad Wash nice, white dandelion; drain well; season with French dressing and serve plain with beet root. No. 10 Dandelion with Bacon Prepare dandelion; drain well; fry small squares of bacon a light brown; add salt, pepper, vinegar and the fat from the bacon; mix all and serve. No. 11 Lamb’s Tongue Salad Slice very thin boiled lamb’s tongue and mix with sliced boiled potatoes and parsley; mix with French dressing, put on lettuce leaves, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. No. 12 Doucette Salad Prepare the same as dandelion; serve with hard-boiled eggs, beet roots, etc. No. 13 Escarole Salad Prepare the same as the dandelion. No. 14 Lettuce Have nice, fresh lettuce; wash and sprinkle ice on it; just before serving mix with French dressing; cream can be used for oil; hard-boiled eggs chopped or cut in quarters, can be served with it. No. 15 Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes Mix and finish the lettuce as above; serve with sliced tomatoes on top.276 THE CHEF DE CUISINE No. 16 Lobster Salad Cut up lobster meat and nice young white celery, half and half; mix with mayonnaise; decorate with olives, hard-boiled egg, capers, lettuce and beet root. -, -- No. 17 Lobster Salad, Mixed Cut up the following: lobster meat, hard-boiled eggs, shallot, chives, lettuce and parsley; add French dressing and mayonnaise; mix gently and serve on lettuce leaves. No. 18 Salad Macedoine Cooked potatoes, carrots, turnips, asparagus tips, string beans, cauliflower sprouts, blanched cabbage, raw cucumbers, gherkins, mushrooms, tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, onions and celery—any of these (or three or four kinds of them) can be mixed into a salad, seasoned with French dressing, or mayonnaise, or soft fried bacon pieces mixed with salt, pepper and vinegar; decorate as desired. No. 19 Meat Salad Cooked lamb, ham, beef, veal, chicken, tongue, turkey—all of these can be turned into a salad, but should be mixed with potatoes, celery or some kind of vegetable; mix with mayonnaise and decorate as desired. -, No. 20 Fish Salad Salmon, shrimp, halibut, or almost any kind of cooked fish, can be used for salad, mixed with celery or some vegetable, dressed with boiled eggs, mayonnaise and decorated with lettuce leaves, beet roots, olives, mushrooms, capers, tomatoes, etc. No. 21 Tomato Salad Plunge them in hot water, and remove the skins; slice and serve with French dressing or mayonnaise. No. 22 Potato Salad Slice the potatoes nicely; mix with sliced onions and chopped parsley; mix the whole with sweet cream, vinegar, salt, pepper and a little bechamel; serve with lettuce.CHAPTER 20. Sandwiches No. 1 Plain Sandwiches Ham, cheese, or any cold meats; are simply two thin slices of buttered American bread, with the meat or cheese between, and seasoned with mustard, pepper and salt; the crust trimmed and served on folded napkin. No. 2 Club Sandwich Lettuce leaf, the white meat of chicken, and mayonnaise between the buttered slices of bread. No. 3 Water Cress Sandwich Pound the water cress in a mortar; mix with butter, salt and pepper; cover a thin slice of bread with this and roll it up; let a sprig of water cress stick out of each end of roll. No. 4 Nut Sandwich Mix very fine chopped nuts with butter and spread between the bread. No. 5 Egg Sandwich Fry the eggs and put between the bread, with salt and pepper. No. 6 Shrimp Sandwich Pound cooked shrimps in a mortar; mix with mayonnaise, highly seasoned, and spread between the buttered bread. No. 7 Pimento Sandwich Chop the pimento fine and mix with butter and spread between the bread. All kinds of fish sandwiches are made the same as the shrimp.APPENDIX No. 1 Stuffing (A) Of all the stuffing for turkey, duck, suckling pig, etc., this is the best: Cut up stale bread and have ready, in small squares, the amount you need; fry in a flat saucepan with butter or fat; chop onions, celery and a little parsley, thyme and liver; add a little flour, and with a hot broth make a bechamel; cook well and season to taste; add the cut-up bread so it makes the stuffing the stiffness of mashed potatoes; put this into the turkey, pig, or whatever it is wanted for, very hot (it will save a great deal of time in the cooking) ; apples or raisins, truffles, mushrooms, oysters, or whatever is desired, can be added to this stuffing; when apples or raisins are used, add a little sugar. No. 2 Spiced Fruit, or Sweet Pickled Fruit Six pounds prepared fruit; 1 quart vinegar, 3% pounds brown sugar, spices (cloves, allspice, stick cinnamon, cassia buds, whole peppers); boil fruit until tender; put in stone jar; boil syrup 3 successive days. No. 3 Chow-chow Mix together, 1 pound ground mustard, two cups brown sugar, two cups flour, a little curry, red pepper, and vinegar, to make a smooth batter; pour in 1 gallon boiling vinegar; boil for two minutes, then mix all kinds of pickles into it (as much as it will hold).Explanations for the Chef Apple Salad—The same as the banana; substitute very ripe apples for bananas. Mixed Fruit Salad—The same as the banana; have mixed fruit. Fruit and Nut Salad—The same as banana; have mixed fruit and broken nut meats on top. Cold Slaw—Fine-cut cabbage with French dressing. Sweet Pickled Pears, Peaches and Prunes—Remove skins, cook until soft in a syrup made of 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 pint vinegar, stick cinnamon and cloves. Chow-chow—Thicken 1 gallon water with Colman’s mustard; add to this, vinegar, brown sugar, pepper, salt and grated horse-radish, so that the mixture is well seasoned; add to this, mixed cut-up pickles, as much as it will hold. Chilli Sauce—Ten tomatoes, 2 onions, 2 peppers (chopped); add sugar, vinegar, salt, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, mustard and cayenne pepper; have it good and hot; boil until thick and strain. Pig’s Cheeks—Smoked and boiled, like ham, makes a dandy dish with cabbage, parsnips or greens, or apple sauce. Roast Spare Ribs—Fine with greens, apple sauce or cabbage. Pickled Pork—After boiling, sliced and roasted will serve well with beans. Head Cheese, Pork or Calf—Boil a very clean hog’s head gently, until well done; chop the meat very fine; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; roll the meat in cheese-cloth in a colander and put a weight on top; serve cold. Head Cheese—Boil a very clean hog’s head gently, in a little water (as little as possible), until well done; cut up the meat and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and vinegar; mix with strained broth, put in loaf tins on ice, or to cool, and serve cold. Head Cheese Flamande—The same as the foregoing, but mix plenty of almonds, pistachio nuts and walnuts into it. Fish Cakes—Take the boiled fish carefully from the bones; mash with boiled potatoes and eggs; season well; form round cakes; dust with flour on both sides and fry in butter; serve with the sauce desired. Fricasseed Rabbits, Meats, Game or Fowl—Disjoint the rabbit; steam with strong seasoning, in butter like a pot roast until very tender, and serve with a rich sauce. Hazen Pfeffer—This is about the same as the foregoing. Forcemeat—This can be made from almost any tender meat or fish; all you need is imagination and the ability to season the composition properly.278B ADVICE AND EXPLANATIONS Corned Beef—For each 100 pounds of beef take about 15 pounds of coarse salt, pound saltpeter, % pound baking soda, 1% pounds brown sugar; distribute the salt all over and under the meat, dissolve the saltpeter, sugar and soda in warm water, and put in cold water (to cover the meat) the next day. Meat Loaves—The most satisfactory meat loaves are made of pork or veal; cut very fine, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add 2 eggs to the pound of meat; mix well and bake in loaf form; almonds and nuts can be added if wanted. Meat loaves can be made with leftover meat; chop the meat fine, add bread crumbs, clean fat, 2 eggs to the pound; season well and proceed the same as the foregoing. Dumplings for Stew or Roast—Two cups flour, 2 eggs, salt, nutmeg, baking powder and milk to make a dough; can be boiled with the meat in the stew, or roasted in the gravy and served with the roast meat. Banana Salad—Sliced bananas on lettuce leaves, mayonnaise dressing. Orange Salad—The same as banana; substitute oranges for bananas.ILLUSTRATIONS — KITCHEN 279280281282283284285286INDEX MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES CHAPTER 1. Yeast Doughs, Bread, Bread Rolls, Buns, French Brioches and German Coffee Cake Number Page 1. Quantities for Straight-Dough or Sponge-Dough....... 11 2. Straight-Dough ..................................... 11 3. Sponge-Dough........................................ 12 4. Mixed Coffee Buns................................... 12 5. Cocoa Bread ........................................ 12 6. Rye Bread........................................... 13 7. Graham or Whole Wheat Bread......................... 13 8. Bran Bread.......................................... 13 9. Oatmeal Bread ..................'................... 13 10. Raisin Bread ....................................... 13 11. Nut Bread .......................................... 13 12. Sweet Dough A..................................... 14 13. Sweet Dough B..................................... 14 14. Sweet Dough C..................................... 14 15. Sweet Dough D..................................... 14 16. French Brioches .................................... 14 17. Belgium Brioches.................................... 15 18. Flemish Brioches .................................. 15 19. German Coffee Cake.................................. 15 20. Brioche au Beurre or Coffee Cake.................... 15 21. Apple Cake, Cinnamon Flavor......................... 15 22. Fresh Fruit Cake.................................... 16 23. Savaryn ............................................ 16 24. Mazarino ........................................... 16 25. Baba ............................................... 16 26. Zwieback ........................................... 16 27. Rice Tarts ......................................... 16 28. Tuliban ............................................ 17 29. Bunt Cake........................................... 17 30. Cramique Beige...................................... 17 31. Buckwheat Cakes .................................. 17 32. Wheat Cakes ........................................ 17 33. Hollandsche Beschuit................................ 17 34. Berliner Pancake .................................. 17288 THE CHEF DE CUISINE CHAPTER 2. Puff Paste—Pies Number Page 1. Feuilletage, or Puff Paste........................... 18 2. Pâté a Founcer, or Pie Paste......................... 18 3. Apple Pie ........................................... 18 3A. Mince Meat for Pies.................................. 19 3B. Mince Meat for Pies.................................. 19 4. Pear Pie ............................................ 19 5. Rhubarb Pie.......................................... 19 6. Lemon Pie............................................ 19 7. Pineapple Pie........................................ 19 8. Huckleberry Pie...................................... 20 9. Currant Pie.......................................... 20 10. Gooseberry Pie....................................... 20 11. Peach Pie ........................................... 20 12. Greengage Pie........................................ 20 13. Strawberry Pie ...................................... 20 14. Raspberry Pie........................................ 20 15. Blackberry Pie ...................................... 20 16. Cherry Pie........................................... 20 17. Pumpkin Pie ....................................... 21 18. Custard Pie.......................................... 21 19. Cocoanut Pie ........................................ 21 20. Lemon Cream Pie, Plain or Meringue................... 21 21. Apple Meringue Pie................................... 21 22. Strawberry Meringue Pie............................. 21 23. Raspberry Meringue Pie............................... 22 24. Gooseberry Meringue Pie............................. 22 CHAPTER 3. Puff Paste—Tarts 1. Apple Tarts.......................................... 23 2. Peach Tarts.......................................... 23 3. Greengage Tarts...................................... 23 4. Apricot Tarts ....................................... 23 5. Pear Tarts........................................... 23 6. Cherry Tarts ........................................ 23 7. Plum Tarts .......................................... 23 8. Rhubarb Tarts .........................;............. 24 9. Huckleberry Tarts ................................... 24 10. Gooseberry Tarts .................................... 24 11. Pineapple Tarts ..................................... 24 12. Cranberry Tarts ......................................24 13. Strawberry Tarts .................................... 24 14. Raspberry Tarts ..................................... 24 15. Blackberry Tarts......................................24INDEX 289 Number Page 16. Frangipane Tarts ..................................... 25 17. Custard Tarts ........................................ 25 18. Lemon Cream Tarts..................................... 25 19. Meringue Tarts........................................ 25 20. Tarts With Whipped Cream.............................. 25 21. Vol au Vent, or Pastry Shells......................... 25 22. Frangipane Tarts, Large............................... 26 23. Mill Feuille, or Napoleon............................. 26 24. Mill Feuille, Large................................... 26 25. Cream Rolls .......................................... 26 26. Alumettes, or Pastry Stick............................ 26 27. St. Honore............................................ 27 28. Cheese Straws ........................................ 27 29. Palm Leaves .......................................... 27 30. Buffalo Tongues ...................................... 27 CHAPTER 4. Pastes, Cake Compositions and Cakes 1. Tartlette Paste ......................................... 28 2. Paste for Meat Patties................................... 28 3. Creams and Compositions.................................. 28 4. Crème Pâtissier, or Custard Cream A................... 28 5. Crème Pâtissier, or Custard Cream B................... 28 6. Crème Pâtissier, or Custard Cream C................... 28 7. Pistachio Crème ......................................... 28 8. Coffee Crème ............................................ 29 9. Chocolate Crème ......................................... 29 10. Strawberry Crème ........................................ 29 11. Hazelnut Crème .......................................... 29 12. Crème au Beurre, or Butter Cream A................... 29 13. Crème au Beurre, or Butter Cream B................... 29 14. Crème Prisse, or Light Cream............................. 29 15. Whipped Cream ........................................... 30 16. Glacé Royal, or White of Egg Icing....................... 30 17. Water Icing ............................................. 30 18. Fondant Icing............................................ 30 19. How to Peel and Pound Almonds............................ 30 20. Sponge Cake.............................................. 30 21. Muscovite Cake........................................... 30 22. Biscuit à la Richelieu................................... 31 23. Layer Cake, American A................................... 31 24. Layer Cake, American B................................... 31 25. Layer Cake, American C................................... 31 26. Layer Cake, American D—Jelly Roll Cake................... 31 26A. Bride’s Cake ............................................ 31290 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 26B. Spice Cake ......................................... 32 27. King Cake or Layer Cake............................. 32 28. Vienna Layer Cake................................... 32 29. Layer Cake and Jelly Roll........................... 32 30. Honey Cake.......................................... 32 CHAPTER 5. Dumplings and Puddings 1. Baked Apple Dumplings............................... 33 2. Baked Apples ....................................... 33 3. Boiled Apple Dumplings.............................. 33 4. Boiled Apricot Dumplings............................ 33 5. Boiled Peach Dumplings.............................. 34 6. Rice Pudding with Orange........................... 34 7. Bread Pudding ...................................... 34 8. French Pudding ..................................... 34 9. English Pudding..................................... 34 10. Sago Pudding........................................ 35 11. Tapioca Pudding .................................... 35 12. Rice Pudding ....................................... 35 13. Farina Pudding .................................... 35. 14. Indian Pudding ..................................... 35 15. Chocolate Pudding................................... 35 16. Pudding de Frankford................................ 35 17. Cocoanut Pudding ................................... 35 18. Pineapple Pudding a la Duval........................ 36 19. Peach Pudding a la Duval............................ 36 20. Apricot Pudding a la Duval.......................... 36 21. Apple Pudding Hollandaise........................... 36 22. Plum Pudding........................................ 36 23. Cabinet Pudding..................................... 36 CHAPTER 6. Sauces for Dumplings and Puddings 1. Apricot Sauce....................................... 37 2, Cream Sauce......................................... 37 3״ Almond Sauce........................................ 37 4. Sauce Royal ........................................ 37 5. Sauce a la Reine.................................... 37 6. Peach Sauce ........................................ 37 7. Lemon Sauce ........................................ 37 8. Orange Sauce ....................................... 38 9. Raspberry Sauce .................................... 38 10. Strawberry Sauce ................................... 38 11. Pineapple Sauce..................................... 38 12. Apricot Sauce....................................... 38 13. Crushed Fruit Sauce................................. 38INDEX 291 CHAPTER 7. Fancy Desserts Number Page 1. Apple Charlotte....................................... 39 2. Charlotte du Riz aux Pommes........................... 39 3. Charlotte du Riz aux Amandes.......................... 39 4. Rice with Orange Charlotte............................ 39 5. Boiled Rice for Charlottes and Cakes.................. 39 6. Pâté a Chou, or Cream Puff Dough...................... 39 7. Eclairs .............................................. 40 8. Eclair au Chocolate................................... 40 9. Vanilla Eclairs ...................................... 40 10. Coffee Eclairs........................................ 40 11. Eclair aux Pistachio.................................. 40 12. Choux à la Crème, or Cream Puffs...................... 40 13. Cheap Cream Puff Paste................................ 40 14. Very Cheap Cream Puff Paste........................... 41 15. French Pastry, Sponge Dough........................... 41 16. Henry Layer Cake, Small or Large...................... 41 17. Frangipane Filling for Tarts, Cakes and Cookies....... 41 CHAPTER 8. Meringues and Whipped Creams 1. Meringue A............................................ 42 2. Meringue B............................................ 42 3. Meringue C............................................ 42 4. Meringue D............................................ 42 5. Meringue E............................................ 42 6. Meringue F............................................ 42 7. Meringue Shells ...................................... 43 8. Meringue Pyramid ..................................... 43 9. Remarks About Meringues............................... 43 10. Kisses and Fancy Meringues............................ 43 11. Whipped Cream......................................... 43 12. Cream Bavariose à la Vanilla.......................... 44 13. Cream Bavariose Raspberry............................. 44 14. Cream Bavariose Strawberry............................ 44 15. Bavarian Cream—Coffee................................. 44 16. Bavarian Cream—Hazelnut............................... 44 17. Bavarian Cream—Chocolate.............................. 44 18. Crème Bavariose aux Macaroons......................... 44 19. Crème Bavariose au Pistachio.......................... 44 20. Whipped Cream Cake.................................... 45 21. Champignons, or Mushrooms............................. 45 22. Blanc-Mange ...........................................45292 THE CHEF DE CUISINE CHAPTER 9. Jellies Number Page 1. Strawberry Jelly.................................... 46 2. Raspberry Jelly..................................... 46 3. Peach Jelly......................................... 46 4. Apricot Jelly....................................... 46 5. Pineapple Jelly..................................... 46 6. Orange Jelly........................................ 46 7. Lemon Jelly......................................... 46 8. Spice Jelly ........................................ 46 9. Mixed or Clear Jelly................................ 47 10. Charlotte Russe .................................... 47 11. Charlotte in Variety................................ 47 CHAPTER 10. Breakfast Cakes 1. Griddle Cakes—Buckwheat................................. 48 2. Wheat Cakes............................................. 48 3. Rice Cakes.............................................. 48 4. Indian Cakes............................................ 48 5. Batter for All Kinds of Frying.......................... 48 6. French Pancakes......................................... 48 7. German Pancakes......................................... 48 8. German Pancakes with Apples............................. 48 9. Pancake Flour .......................................... 49 10. Self-Rising Flour....................................... 49 11. Batter for Fritters..................................... 49 12. Fritters Soufflé a la Vanilla........................... 49 13. Waffles A............................................... 49 14. Waffles B .............................................. 49 CHAPTER 11. Layer and Loaf Cakes 1. Pound, or Loaf Cake................................. 50 2. Citron Cake......................................... 50 3. Raisin Cake ....................................... 50 4. Nut Cake............................................ 50 5. Fruit Cake.......................................... 50 6. Wedding Cake ....................................... 50 7. Black Fruit Cake.................................... 50 7A. Soft Gingerbread ................................... 51 8. Angel Cake.......................................... 51 9. Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes and Lady Fingers (A) .... 51 10. Sponge Cake......................................... 51 11. Cake Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes and Lady Fingers (B) 51 12. Cake Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes (C)............ 51INDEX 293 Number Page 13. Cake Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes and Lady Fingers (D) 51 14. Cake Mixture for Layer or Loaf Cakes (E).............. 52 14A. Devil’s Food ......................................... 52 15. Layer, or Angel Food Cake Mixture..................... 52 16. Bread Torte........................................... 52 17. Assorted Torte ....................................... 52 18. Lady Cake............................................. 52 CHAPTER 12. Small Cakes 1. Almond Macaroons ..................................... 53 2. Bitter Macaroons ..................................... 53 3. Lady Fingers ......................................... 53 4. Pond Lily Cakes....................................... 53 5. Silver Cake........................................... 53 6. Queen Cake............................................ 53 7. Lady Cookies.......................................... 54 8. Duchess Cookies....................................... 54 9. Chocolate Macaroons................................... 54 10. Macaroons Soufflé..................................... 54 11. Petit Fourre, or Small Fancy Cakes.................... 54 12. Medallions ........................................... 54 13. Wafers A ............................................. 54 14. Wafers B.............................................. 55 15. Speculaas A .......................................... 55 16. Speculaas B .......................................... 55 17. Royal Cookies ........................................ 55 18. Chocolate Cookies .................................... 55 19. Almond Cookies........................................ 55 20. Plain Jumbles......................................... 55 21. Cinnamon Cookies ..................................... 56 22. Holland Cookies....................................... 56 23. Scotch Cookies ....................................... 56 24. Ginger Snaps.......................................... 56 25. Edenkabers ........................................... 56 26. Spice Drops........................................... 56 27. Walnut Wafers ........................................ 56 28. Soft Ginger Bread..................................... 57 29. Jumbles .............................................. 57 CHAPTER 13. Fillings and Icings for Cookies and Cakes 1. Hazelnut Paste for Cookies............................ 58 2. Almond Paste Filling for Cookies...................... 58 3. Chocolate Filling for Cookies......................... 58 4. Different Varieties of Fillings....................... 58294 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 5. Fig Filling ........................................... 58 6. Prune Filling.......................................... 58 7. Almond Icing .......................................... 58 8. Bitter Almond Icing.................................... 59 9. Water Icing............................................ 59 10. Fondant Icing.......................................... 59 CHAPTER 14. Hot Biscuits, Cakes and Muffins for Breakfast 1. Royal Biscuits.......................................... 60 2. Egg Biscuits ........................................... 60 3. French Biscuits......................................... 60 4. Breakfast Biscuits ..................................... 60 5. English Muffins......................................... 60 6. Royal Muffins .......................................... 61 7. Gems ................................................... 61 8. Oatmeal Muffins ........................................ 61 9. Butter Cake............................................. 61 10. Graham Muffins.......................................... 61 11. Potato Muffins.......................................... 61 12. Cornmeal Muffins ....................................... 61 13. Crumpets ............................................... 62 14. Dutch Crullers ......................................... 62 15. Doughnuts A ............................................ 62 16. Doughnuts B ............................................ 62 17. German Doughnuts ....................................... 62 CHAPTER 15. Ice Creams 1. French Vanilla Ice Cream................................ 63 2. French Chocolate Ice Cream.............................. 63 3. French Coffee Ice Cream................................. 63 4. French Strawberry Ice Cream............................. 63 5. French Raspberry Ice Cream.............................. 63 6. French Peach Ice Cream.................................. 63 7. French Pineapple Ice Cream.............................. 63 8. French Pistachio Ice Cream.............................. 64 9. French Hazelnut Ice Cream............................... 64 10. American Ice Cream...................................... 64 11. Lemon Water Ice......................................... 64 12. Water Ice .............................................. 64 13. Biscuit Glacé à la Vanilla.............................. 64 14. Biscuit Glacé à la Orange............................... 64 15. Biscuit Glacé au Chocolate ............................. 65INDEX 295 Number Page 16. Biscuit Glacé Pineapple ................................ 65 17. Biscuit Glacé Macaroons ................................ 65 18. Biscuit Glacé Hazelnuts ................................ 65 19. Biscuit Glacé Café ..................................... 65 20. Biscuit Glacé Pistachio ................................ 65 21. Biscuit Glacé .......................................... 65 22. Punches or Cordials..................................... 65 23. Cabinet Pudding—Frozen ................................. 66 24. Frozen Plum Pudding..................................... 66 25. Frozen Nesselrode Pudding............................... 66 26. Macaroon Ice Cream...................................... 66 27. Neapolitan Ice Cream.................................... 66 28. Tutti-Frutti ........................................... 66 29. Plombierre ............................................. 66 30. Parfait au Café......................................... 66 31. Orange Glacé ........................................... 67 32. Charlotte Glacé ....................................... 67 33. Charlotte Glacé Panachées.............................. 67 34. Charlotte Glacé Macaroons.............................. 67 35. Meringue Glacé........................................ 67 36. Meringue Panachées.................................... 67 37. Sherbet ................................................ 67 CHAPTER 16. Jellies and Preserves 1. Currant Jelly .......................................... 68 2. Apple Jelly............................................. 68 3. Fruit Jelly............................................. 68 4. Apple Preserves ........................................ 68 5. Apricot Preserves....................................... 68 6. Berry Preserves ........................................ 69 7. Cherry Preserves—Sweet.................................. 69 8. Cherry Preserves—Sour .................................. 69 9. Currant Preserves....................................... 69 10. Peach Preserves ........................................ 69 11. Pear Preserves ......................................... 69 12. Pineapple Preserves..................................... 69 13. Prune Preserves ........................................ 69 14. Quince Preserves ....................................... 70 15. Fruit Jellies Made with Gelatine........................ 70 16. Jams................................................... 70 17. Candied Fruits ......................................... 70 18. Candied Fruits ......................................... 70296 THE CHEF DE CUISINE CHAPTER 17. Syrups, Fondant and Candies Number Page 1. Boiling of Syrup..................................... 71 2. Remarks.............................................. 71 3. Boiled Frosting ..................................... 71 4. Remarks Regarding the Boiling of Frosting............ 71 5. Salted Almonds ...................................... 71 6. Candy Making ........................................ 71 7. Fondant A............................................ 72 8. Fondant B............................................ 72 9. Remarks.............................................. 72 10. Mixture for Candies................................. 72 11. Extracts for Candies................................. 72 12. Caramels ............................................ 72 13. Remarks About Caramels............................... 72 14. Glaced Nuts and Fruits............................... 72 15. Remarks About Coating................................ 73 16. Remarks ............................................. 73 17. Nougat .............................................. 73 18. Italian Nougat ...................................... 73 19. Peanut Brittle....................................... 73 20. Popcorn Balls........................................ 73 21. Taffy ............................................... 73 22. Souffle.............................................. 74 23. For Christmas........................................ 74 24. Remarks.............................................. 74 25. Trugande, or Tragacanth Paste........................ 74 26. Lozenges ............................................ 74 27. Honey Candy or Nougat................................ 74 28. Marzipan ............................................ 75 CHAPTER 18. Pastries 1. Cat Tongues ............................................. 76 1A. Cracklings, or Pretzels, With Sugar..................... 76 2. Cracklings, or Pretzels, Without Sugar................... 76 3. Cracklings, or Pretzels, From Puff Paste..................76 Advice and Explanations for the Pastry Baker...............76A-76EKITCHEN RECIPES CHAPTER 1. Stocks and Sauces Number page 1. Roux, White or Brown.................................183 2. White Stock .........................................!83 3. Marinade Stock for Fish or Meat......................183 4. Glacé de Viande, or Meat Glacé.......................183 5. Maitre d’Hotel Butter................................183 6. Anchovy Butter ......................................183 7. Butter à la Ravigote.................................183 8. Horse-Radish Butter .................................184 9. Lobster Butter ......................................184 10. Sauce Espagnole .....................................184 11. Sauce Velouté........................................184 12. Melted, Brown or Black Butter........................184 13. Drawn Butter ........................................!84 14. Sauce Allemande .....................................184 15. Egg Sauce............................................184 16. Anchovy Sauce........................................185 17. Sauce Persillade ....................................185 18. Sauce Béarnaise .....................................185 19. Apple Sauce .........................................185 20. Mint Sauce ..........................................185 21. Green Sauce .........................................185 22. Sauce Supreme........................................185 23. Oyster Sauce.........................................185 24. Sauce à la Toulouse .................................186 25. Shrimp Sauce ........................................186 26. Sauce Espagnole .....................................186 27. Sauce à la Vénitienne................................186 28. Cream Sauce..........................................186 29. Sauce à l’Aurore.....................................186 30. Sauce Duchesse.......................................186 31. Sauce Princesse......................................186 32. Mustard Sauce........................................186 33. Tomato Sauce.........................................186 34. Sauce Piquant........................................187 35. Mayonnaise ..........................................187 36. Sauce Tartare..................................... .187 37. Rémoulade Sauce .....................................187 38. Prussian Sauce.......................................187 39. Sauce Chambord.......................................187298 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 40. Purée of Chestnuts (A).............................187 41. Chiffonade (B) ....................................187 42. Printanier (C) ....................................187 43. Bouquet to Flavor Soups (D)........................188 44. Garniture for Soups (E)............................188 45. Royal (F) .........................................188 46. Béchamel Sauce (G) ..............................188 47. Béchamel Villeroi (H)............................188 48. Béchamel Espagnole (I) ..........................188 49. Mirepoix (K) ....................................188 CHAPTER 2. Consomme and Bouillon 1. Bouillon, or White Broth...........................189 2. Consommé, Plain..................................189 3. Consommé Chestnut................................189 4. Consommé Tapioca ................................189 5. Consommé, in Variety.............................189 6. Consommé Roval ..................................189 7. Consommé Duhourg ................................189 7A. Consommé Massina ................................190 8. Consommé à la Sevigne............................190 9. Consommé Deslignoi ..............................190 10. Consommé à l’Orléans.............................190 11. Consommé à l’impérial............................190 12. Consommé Princesse ..............................190 13. Consomme Douglas ................................190 14. Consommé à l’Andalouse ..........................190 15. Consommé Colbert ................................190 16. Printanier Colbert ................................190 17. Consommé Suédoise................................191 18. Consommé Rachel .................................191 19. Consommé Printanier Royal .......................191 20. Consommé Patti ..................................191 21. Consommé Napolitaine ............................191 CHAPTER 3. Kitchen Soups 1. Onion Soup.........................................192 2. Soup Beef à l’Anglaise.............................192 3. Bisque of Clams ...................................192 4. Croûte au Pot......................................192 5. Boston Fish Chowder.............................. 192 6. Clam Chowder ......................................192 7. Chiffonade, Plain .................................192INDEX 299 Number Page 8. How to Prepare Green Turtle Soup.........................193 9. Green Turtle Soup........................................193 10. Mock Turtle ..........................................193 11. Giblets with Rice....................................... 193 12. Giblets with Barley.....................................193 13. Giblets à l’Anglaise....................................193 14. Gumbo with Frogs......................................193 15. Gumbo with Crabs......................................193 16. Frog à l’Espagnole.....................................194 17. Oyster Soup..............................................194 18. Julienne.................................................194 19. Jardinière ..............................................194 20. Velvet Soup .............................................194 21. Mutton with Barley.......................................194 22. Mutton Printanier........................................194 22A. Mutton à l’Ecossaise......................................194 23. Pot au Feu (A)...........................................195 24. Napolitaine .............................................195 25. Oxtail with Barley.......................................195 26. Oxtail à l’Ecossaise ....................................195 27. Oxtail à l’Anglaise......................................195 28. Sorrel with Asparagus Tips.............................. 195 29. Sorrel with Rice.........................................195 30. Potato Purée.............................................195 31. Purée Parmentier.........................................196 32. Purée Bretonne, or Bean Soup.............................196 33. Purée Faubonne (Lentils) ................................196 34. Purée Condé, or Red Bean Soup............................196 35. Purée of Green Peas......................................196 36. Purée Moqoie, or Soup of Dried Peas......................196 37. Printanier Grenat........................................196 38. Printanier Chasseur .....................................196 39. Paysanne (Country Soup)..................................196 40. Pot au Feu (Family Soup).................................197 41. Soup à la Russe......................................... 197 42. Spaghetti with Tomatoes.......................-,.........197 43. Tomatoes with Rice.......................................197 44. Tomatoes à l’Andalouse...................................197 44A. Tomato Bisque ...........................................197 45. Tomatoes with Sago.......................................197 46. Chicken Soup ..........................................197 47. Chicken Piemontaise ...................................197 48. Chicken Hollandaise ...................................198 49. Chicken à la Creole....................................198 50. Chicken Portugaise ....................................198300 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 51. Chicken à la Gumbo.....................................198 52. Chicken with Leek......................................198 53. Chicken à la Turque....................................198 54. Cream of Asparagus.....................................198 55. Cream of Celery (A) ...................................198 55A. Cream of Celery (B) ..................................198 56. Cream of Artichoke ....................................199 57. Cream of Lima Beans....................................199 58. Cream of Dried Peas ...................................199 59. Cream of Sorrel .......................................199 60. Cream of Sorrel and Rice...............................199 61. Cream of Chicken ......................................199 62. Cream of Game .........................................199 63. Cream of Turnips ......................................199 64. Cuisson de Poisson, or Fish Broth......................200 65. Chicken Essence .......................................200 66. Frimet of Game.........................................200 CHAPTER 4. Forcemeats 1. Sausage Forcemeat .....................................201 2. Godiveau Forcemeat.....................................201 3. Lobster Forcemeat .....................................201 4. Crab Forcemeat ........................................201 5. Clam Forcemeat.........................................201 6. Chicken Forcemeat à la Cream...........................201 7. Chicken Forcemeat .....................................201 8. Game Forcemeat ........................................201 9. Forcemeat Flamande ....................................202 10. Mushroom Garnishing ...................................202 11. Garnishing Bayard......................................202 12. Marrow Garnishing .....................................202 13. Mixed Garnishing ......................................202 CHAPTER 5. Hors d’Oeuvres, or Side Dishes 1. Timbales à l’Ecossaise.................................203 2. Noodle Timbales........................................203 3. Timbales Russe.........................................203 4. Shells for Garnishing (K)..............................203 5. Croustade Régence......................................203 6. English Patties .......................................203 7. Ortolan Patties........................................203 8. Canapé New York........................................204 9. Bouchées à la Reine....................................204INDEX 301 Number Page 10. Mixed Bouchées ........................................204 11. Coquilles of Oysters au Gratin.........................204 12. Caviar on Toast........................................204 13. Anchovies on Toast.....................................204 14. Chicken Croquettes.....................................204 15. Mixed Croquettes ..................................... 204 16. Mariné.................................................205 17. Tomatoes and Cucumbers (Side Dish).....................205 18. Celery and Radishes...................................205 19. Welsh Rarebit .......................................205 20. Golden Buck..........................................205 21. Cheese au Gratin......................................205 CHAPTER 6. Fish 1. Oysters on the Shell...................................206 2. Oysters à la Franklin..................................206 3. Clams on the Shell.....................................206 4. Breaded Fish ..........................................206 5. Oyster Croustades .....................................206 6. Salmon ................................................206 7. Salmon Colbert ......................................206 8. Salmon à la Régence..................................207 9. Salmon Italian ......................................207 10. English Salmon .......................................207 11. Boiled Halibut ........................................207 12. Halibut Steak Maitre d’Hotel...........................207 13. Trout with Anchovy Sauce...............................207 14. Mixed Fish ............................................207 15. Sauces ................................................208 16. Mackerel en Papillotes.................................208 17. Mackerel with Fine Herbs...............................208 18. Shad with Sorrel.......................................208 19. Matelote of Eels.......................................208 20. Eel Parisienne.........................................208 21. Fried Eels Hollandaise.................................209 22. Fried Fish.............................................209 23. Salt Cod Swedish.......................................209 24. Codfish Bonne Femme....................................209 25. How to Prepare Codfish Tongues.........................209 26. Codfish Tongues with Drawn Butter......................209 27. Codfish Tongues with Black Butter......................209 28. Fried Codfish Tongues..................................210 29. Codfish Tongues à la Poulette..........................210 30. Boiled Codfish ........................................210302 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number P a"e 31. Broiled Boned Smelts.....................................210 32. Smelts Flamand ..........................................210 33. Stuffed Smelts...........................................210 34. Smelts au Gratin.........................................210 35. Lobster à l’American.....................................210 36. Curry Lobster and Rice................................. 211 37. Lobster de Frankforte...................................211 38. Lobster à la Newburg....................................211 39. Lobster au Brousette....................................211 40. Lobster en Chevreuse................................... 211 41. Broiled Lobster.........................................211 42. Lobster Croquettes......................................211 43. Lobster Cutlets ........................................212 44. Stuffed Lobster..........................................212 45. Fried Soft Shell Crabs...................................212 46. Crabs à la Diable........................................212 47. Broiled Soft Shell Crabs.................................212 48. Crab Laurens.............................................212 49. Crab St. Jean............................................212 50. Oyster à la Poulette.....................................213 51. Crab à la Poulette.......................................213 52. Fried Oyster Crabs.......................................213 53. Stuffed Clams ...........................................213 54. Clams Marinière..........................................213 55. Mussel Marinière.........................................213 56. Mussel à la Poulette.....................................213 57. Fried Oysters............................................213 58. Oysters Villerois........................................213 59. Broiled Oysters..........................................214 60. Oyster Pierrotte ........................................214 61. Oyster in Blankets.......................................214 62. Oyster Mali..............................................214 63. Oyster Patties ......................................... 214 64. Baltimore Oysters........................................214 65. Terrapin—How to Prepare..................................214 66. Terrapin Baltimore ......................................215 67. Terrapin Maryland........................................215 68. Frogs à la Poulette......................................215 69. Broiled Frogs ...........................................215 70. Fried Frogs..............................................215 71. Frog Espagnole ..........................................215 72. Broiled Shad’s Roe with Bacon............................215INDEX 303 CHAPTER 7. Eggs Number Page 1. Poached Eggs ........................................216 2. Scrambled Eggs ......................................216 3. Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus Tips...................216 4. Scrambled Eggs with Truffles.........................216 5. Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Beef......................216 6. Scrambled Eggs with Chicory..........................216 7. Omelets .............................................216 8. Eggs Strasburg.....................................217 9. Eggs in Bechamel...................................217 10. Eggs a la Pauvre Femme..............................217 11. Eggs au Gratin......................................217 12. Eggs Valencienne....................................217 13. Eggs Finois ........................................217 14. Eggs with Fresh Mushrooms...........................217 15. Eggs with Celery....................................218 16. Eggs with Truffles..................................218 17. Eggs and Taragon....................................218 18. Eggs with Chicken Livers............................218 19. Eggs a la Bonne Femme...............................218 20. Cheese Omelet .......................................218 21. Eggs a la Paysanne..................................218 22. Eggs a la Regence...................................219 23. Eggs a la Turque....................................219 24. Eggs a la Reine.....................................219 25. Eggs Imperial ......................................219 26. Eggs a la Suisse....................................219 27. Eggs Alsace ........................................219 28. Eggs Aurore ........................................219 29. Eggs Barnard .......................................219 30. Eggs a la Duchesse..................................220 31. Omelet with Fine Herbs...............................220 32. Oyster Omelet........................................220 33. Crawfish Omelet .....................................220 34. Lobster Omelet ......................................220 35. Crab Omelet .........................................220 36. Tomato Omelet........................................220 37. Asparagus Tips Omelet................................220 38. Green Peas Omelet....................................221 39. Omelet au Capers.....................................221 40. Smoked Beef Omelet...................................221 41. Ham Omelet ..........................................221 42. Kidney Omelet .......................................221 43. Chicken Liver Omelet.................................221 44. Sausage Omelet ......................................221304 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 45. Omelet Bonne Femme....................................221 46. Sardine Omelet .......................................221 47. Cheese Omelet.........................................222 48. Omelet Régence .......................................222 49. Omelet Espagnole......................................222 50. Mexican Omelet .......................................222 51. Omelet Soufflé........................................222 CHAPTER 8. Beef 1. Beef à la Mode........................................223 2. Braised Beef à la Province............................223 3. Beef Melanais.........................................223 4. Beef Flamande ........................................223 5. Smoked Beef à la Cream................................223 6. Beefsteak Pie ........................................223 7. Beefsteak Pie American................................224 8. Corned Beef ..........................................224 9. Sirloin Béarnaise ....................................224 10. Sirloin Bordelaise....................................224 11. Sirloin Duchesse......................................224 12. Sirloin Steak à la Parisienne.........................224 13. Sirloin Steak aux Capes...............................224 14. Minced Beef à la Provençale...........................224 15. Minced Beef Portugaise................................225 16. Minced Beef Catalané..................................225 17. Broiled Tenderloin of Beef............................225 18. Broiled Tenderloin à la Nivernaise....................225 19. Tenderloin Trianon ...................................225 20. Tenderloin Gourmets ..................................225 21. Mignons Filets Pompadour.............................225 22. Mignons Filets Moille................................225 23. Mignons Filets Russe.................................225 24. Mignons Filets Bernardi..............................226 25. Mignons Filets Bohémienne............................226 26. Mignons Filets Parisienne............................226 27. Tenderloin Pique ....................................226 28. Tenderloin Portugaise................................226 29. Roast Tenderloin au Hussard...........................226 30. Tenderloin Pique Sevigne.............................226 31. Tenderloin à ?Egyptienne.............................226 32. Tenderloin Richelieu ................................226 33. Tenderloin Bernardi..................................227 34. Porterhouse Steak.....................................227 35. Double Porterhouse Steak..............................227 36. Hamburg Steak.........................................227305 INDEX Number Page 37. Hamburg Russe .........................................227 38. Hamburg Steak Prussienne...............................227 39. Roast Beef.............................................227 40. Corned Beef Hash.....................................227 41. Corned Beef Hash Polonaise ..........................228 42. Corned Beef au Gratin ...............................228 43. Corned Beef Hash Zigara..............................228 44. Corned Beef Hash en Bordure..........................228 45. Corned Beef Hash Royal ..............................228 46. Beef Tongue Piquante.................................228 47. Beef Tongue Napolitaine.............................228 48. Beef Tongue Jardinière .............................228 49. Beef Tongue with Spinach............................228 50. Beef Tongue au Risotto .............................229 51. Beef Tongue Hollandaise ............................229 52. Roulade of Beef........................................229 53. Stewed Beef Egyptienne.................................229 54. Stewed Beef à la Turque................................229 55. Beef Stew Country Style................................229 CHAPTER 9. Tripe 1. Tripe Bordelaise.......................................230 2. Tripe Creole...........................................230 3. Shredded Tripe.........................................230 4. Tripe à la Mode........................................230 5. Tripe Lyonnaise........................................230 CHAPTER 10. Veal 1. Blanquette of Veal.....................................• • •231 2. Blanquette à la Reine......................................231 3. Blanquette of Veal with Peas...............................231 4. Blanquette of Veal with Noodles............................231 5. Brisolin of Veal...........................................231 6. Brisolin Ecarlate..........................................231 7. Brisolin Nairtaise.........................................231 8. Calf’s Brains with Black Butter............................232 9. Calf’s Brains in Vinegar...................................232 10. Fried Calf’s Brains Tartare................................232 11. Veal Cutlets New York......................................232 12. Veal Cutlets Maréchale ....................................232 13. Veal Cutlets Milanaise ....................................232 14. Veal Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.............................232 15. Broiled Veal Cutlets.......................................232 16. Veal Cutlets Philadelphia..................................233306 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 17. Veal Oysters ...........................................233 18. Veal Curry and Rice.....................................233 19. Veal Steak..............................................233 20. Escallops of Veal.......................................233 21. Varieties of Garnishings................................233 22. Veal Sweetbreads à la Richelieu.........................233 23. Minced Veal à la Catalane...............................234 24. Fricandeau with Sorrel..................................234 25. Calf’s Liver Italienne..................................234 26. Braised Calf’s Liver....................................234 27. Broiled Calf’s Liver and Bacon..........................234 28. Roast Veal .............................................234 29. Veal with Purée of Peas.................................235 30. Grendins of Veal........................................235 31. Veal Sérigné............................................235 32. Veal Africaine..........................................235 33. Panpiette of Veal.......................................235 34. Panpiette of Chestnuts..................................235 35. Breast of Veal Milanais.................................235 36. Calf’s Feet.............................................235 37. Calf’s Feet Piquante...................................236 38. Calf’s Feet Rémoulade...................................236 39. Veal Stew Marengo.....................................236 40. Veal Stew Provinciale ................................236 41. Veal Stew à la Grecque................................236 42. Veal Stew Portugaise .................................236 43. Veal Stew Solferino ..................................236 44. Veal Stew Hollandaise ................................236 45. Veal Stew Italienne...................................237 46. Calf’s Head Squares.....................................237 CHAPTER 11. Sweetbreads 1. How to Blanch Sweetbreads...............................238 2. Braised Sweetbreads Financière..........................238 3. Varieties of Sweetbreads................................238 4. Sweetbread Croquettes ..................................238 5. Sweetbread Patties .....................................238 6. Timbales of Sweetbreads...............................238 7. Coquilles of Sweetbreads...............................239 8. Sweetbreads Coquilles Royal...........................239 9. Sweetbreads Coquilles Reine...........................239 10. Sweetbreads Cardinal ..................................239INDEX 307 CHAPTER 12. Mutton or Lamb Number Page 1. Broiled Mutton Chops..................................240 2. Mutton Chops Breaded ................................240 3. Mutton Chops Bretonne ...............................240 4. Mutton Chops Algérienne .............................240 5. Roast Leg of Mutton....................................240 6. Leg of Mutton à la Condé...............................240 7. Leg of Mutton Bretonne.................................240 8. Boiled Leg of Mutton...................................240 9. Mutton Hash..........................................241 10. Mutton Hash au Gratin................................241 11. Lamb’s Feet à la Poulette............................241 12. Mutton Stew Termiere...................................241 13. Mutton Stew Solferino..................................241 14. Mutton Stew Portugaise.................................241 15. Mutton Stew Italienne..................................241 16. Irish Mutton Stew......................................241 17. Lamb Curry and Rice....................................241 18. Mutton Kidneys en Brochette..........................242 19. Mutton Kidneys Sauté.................................242 20. Mutton Kidneys Italienne.............................242 21. Mutton Kidneys Royal.................................242 22. Saddle of Mutton.......................................242 23. Saddle of Mutton Colbert Sauce.........................242 24. Saddle of Mutton with Currant Jelly....................242 25. Saddle of Mutton with Poivrade Sauce...................242 26. Lamb Fries au Diable...................................243 27. Lamb Fries with Tomato Sauce...........................243 28. Lamb Fries Royal.......................................243 29. Ballotin of Lamb.......................................243 30. Lamb with Asparagus Tips...............................243 31. Lamb Stew .............................................243 32. Cutty of Lamb à la Créole..............................243 33. Croquettes of Lamb.....................................244 34. Lamb Chops ............................................244 35. Minced Lamb à l’Anglaise...............................244 36. Epigrammes of Lamb.....................................244 37. Epigrammes Half-and-Half...............................244 38. Shoulder of Lamb.......................................244 39. Shoulder of Lamb with Stuffed Tomatoes.................244 40. Shoulder of Lamb Jardinière............................245 41. Shoulder of Lamb Espagnole ............................245 42. Shoulder of Lamb Flamand ..............................245 43. Hash of Lamb à la Polanaise............................245 44. Ragout of Lamb.........................................245308 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 45. Breast of Lamb Jardinière............................245 46. Lamb Stew ...........................................245 47. Lamb’s Kidneys ......................................246 48. Lamb Steak...........................................246 CHAPTER 13. Pork 1. Black, or Blood Sausage................................247 2. Suckling Pig, Apple Sauce..............................247 3. Boiled Ham ............................................247 4. Cold Boiled Ham......................................247 5. Roast Ham ............................................247 6. Roast Ham with Corn.................................247 7. Roast Ham with Spinach..............................247 8. Cold Ham with Apple Jelly.............................247 9. Pig’s Cheek with Spinach...............................248 10. Broiled Pig’s Feet.....................................248 11. Pig’s Feet in Jelly....................................248 12. Country Sausage.......................................248 13. Sausage Anglaise .....................................248 14. Sausage Italienne.....................................248 15. Sausage with Cabbage..................................248 16. Sausage Paysanne .....................................248 17. Sausage Royal ........................................249 18. Sausage à la Mexico...................................249 19. Pork Tenderloin........................................249 20. Pork Chops.............................................249 21. Roasted Fresh Pork.....................................249 22. Pork and Beans.........................................249 CHAPTER 14. Poultry 1. Chicken Roasted, Plain...............................250 2. Chicken Broiled with Bacon...........................250 3. Chicken Potpie.......................................250 4. Chicken Croquettes ..................................250 5. Croustade of Chicken...................................250 6. Croustade of Chicken Livers............................250 7. Chicken Liver Patties .................................251 8. Chicken Liver Timbales ................................251 9. Stewed Chicken Livers..................................251 10. Chicken Livers with Mushrooms..........................251 11. Chicken Livers en Brochette............................251 12. Chicken Livers en Brochette with Bacon.................251 13. Chicken Livers Sauté Italienne.........................251 14. Chicken Sauté à la Merango.............................251INDEX 309 Number Page 15. Chicken Sauté Hongroise .............................252 16. Chicken Sauté with Tarragon..........................252 17. Chicken Sauté à la Chasseur..........................252 18. Sauté of Chicken à la Hollandaise.....................252 19. Chicken Sauté à la Regence...........................252 20. Chicken Sauté Bohémienne ............................252 21. Boiled Chicken and Cream..............................252 22. Chicken Fricassee à la Reine.........................252 23. Chicken à la Turque..................................253 24. Chicken Creole ......................................253 25. Chicken with Rice....................................253 26. Chicken à la Maryland................................253 27. Supreme of Chicken Toulouse ..........................253 28. Supreme of Chicken Impérial...........................253 29. Supreme of Chicken à la Reine.........................253 30. Chicken Curry à l’Indienne............................254 31. Chicken Curry Espagnole...............................254 32. Chicken in Jelly......................................254 CHAPTER 15. Turkey 1. Turkey Boiled à l’Anglaise............................255 2. Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce...........................255 3. Boiled Turkey, Oyster Sauce...........................255 4. Boiled Turkey, Egg Sauce .............................255 5. Roast Turkey .......................................255 6. Roast Turkey, Stuffed ..............................255 7. Roast Turkey Flamande .............................255 8. Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing.....................255 9. Hashed Turkey ......................................255 10. Hashed Turkey Royal.................................256 11. Turkey Hash Polonaise................................256 12. Turkey Hash à la Béchamel...........................256 13. Hashed Turkey en Bordure............................256 14. Breast of Turkey Royal ..............................256 15. Breast of Turkey à la Reine..........................256 16. Boned Turkey in Jelly...............................256 CHAPTER 16. Game 1. Roast Goose, Stuffed...................................257 2. Timbales Foie Gras.....................................257 2A. Vol au Vent, or Patty Shells..........................257 3. Pigeon Cutlets ........................................257 4. Pigeon Cutlets Royal...................................257 5. Squabs on Toast with Bacon...........................257310 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 6. Roasted Squabs, Plain..................................258 7. Broiled Squabs.........................................258 8. Compote of Squabs......................................258 9. Roast Duck.............................................258 10. Roast Duck and Apple Sauce.............................258 11. Roast Duckling.........................................258 12. Salmis of Duck.........................................258 13. Canapes for Game.......................................259 14. Game Croquettes .......................................259 15. Roast Quails ..........................................259 16. Broiled Quails with Bacon..............................259 17. Braised Quails ........................................259 CHAPTER 17. Venison 1. Saddle of Venison with Jelly...........................260 2. Venison Steak .........................................260 3. Civet of Venison.......................................260 4. Civet of Venison Parisienne............................260 5. Venison Pie ...........................................260 6. Filets of Hare Sauce Pairade...........................261 7. Hare Hollandaise ......................................261 CHAPTER 18. Vegetables 1. Stuffed Artichokes ....................................262 2. Stuffed Artichokes Indienne........................... 262 3. Artichoke Sauté .......................................262 4. Fried Artichokes.......................................262 5. Asparagus Hollandaise .................................262 6. Asparagus Vinaigrette .................................263 7. Asparagus Swiss........................................263 8. Fried Egg Plant........................................263 9. Broiled Egg Plant......................................263 10. Beets .................................................263 11. Beet Sauté ............................................263 12. Stewed Mushrooms.......................................263 13. Mushroom Sauté on Toast................................263 14. Mushroom Sauté à la Cream..............................264 15. Mushrooms Broiled on Toast.............................264 16. Cabbage ...............................................264 17. Cabbage with Cream.....................................264 18. Stuffed Cabbage........................................264 19. Brussels Sprouts Sautés au Beurre......................264 20. Brussels Sprouts à la Cream............................264 21. Sauerkraut.............................................264INDEX 311 Number Page 22. Cauliflower with Butter.................................265 23. Cauliflower au Gratin...................................265 24. Carrots Sauté ..........................................265 25. Carrots Sauté à la Cream................................265 26. Celery .................................................265 27. Creamed Celery .........................................265 28. Celery with Marrow Sauce................................265 29. Chicory ................................................265 30. Cucumbers à la Poulette.................................266 31. Cucumbers à la Béchamel.................................266 32. Stuffed Cucumbers ......................................266 33. Spinach ................................................266 34. Spinach Royal ..........................................266 35. String Beans............................................266 36. String Beans with Cream.................................266 37. String Beans Plain......................................267 38. String Beans with Parsley...............................267 39. Beans Panachée, or Succotash............................267 40. Red Beans ..............................................267 41. Spanish Beans...........................................267 42. Fresh Lima Beans........................................267 43. Stuffed Lettuce ........................................267 44. Macaroni with Cream.....................................267 45. Macaroni and Cheese.....................................268 46. Macaroni Napolitaine ...................................268 47. Italienne Macaroni......................................268 48. Noodles for Soup, etc...................................268 49. Boiled Green Corn.......................................268 50. Corn Sauté .............................................268 51. Corn with Cream.........................................268 52. Corn Fritters ..........................................268 53. Corn Masteles...........................................269 54. Turnips ................................................269 55. Onions with Cream.......................................269 56. Fried Onions (A)........................................269 57. Stuffed Onions .........................................269 58. Fried Onions (B)........................................269 59. Stuffed Peppers ........................................269 60. Green Peas .............................................270 61. Boiled Potatoes, Plain..................................270 62. Broiled Potatoes........................................270 63. Fried Potatoes .........................................270 64. Potatoes Maitre d’Hotel.................................270 65. Potatoes Parisienne ....................................270 66. Potatoes a Crû .........................................270312 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 67. Potatoes Italienne .....................................270 68. Potatoes Lyonnaise .....................................271 69. Stuffed Potatoes........................................271 70. Potato Croquettes.......................................271 71. Potatoes à la Duchesse..................................271 72. Potato Soufflé .........................................271 73. Saratoga Potatoes ......................................271 74. Potato Pudding Italienne................................271 75. Julienne Potatoes ......................................272 76. Straw, or Corkscrew Potatoes............................272 77. Boiled Rice.............................................272 78. Risotto ................................................272 79. Oyster Plant ...........................................272 80. Oyster Plant à la Poulette..............................272 81. Fried Oyster Plant......................................272 82. Stuffed Tomatoes .......................................272 83. Broiled Tomatoes........................................273 84. Stewed Tomatoes ........................................2^3 85. Okra, Boiled ...........................................273 86. Macédoine and Jardinière................................273 87. Hubbard Squash, Baked...................................273 88. Hominy .................................................273 89. Fried Hominy............................................273 CHAPTER 19. Salads 1. French Dressing.......................................274 2. Anchovy Salad ........................................274 3. Beef Salad ...........................................274 4. Cauliflower Salad.....................................274 5. Celery Salad .........................................274 6. Chicken Salad.........................................274 7. Chicory Salad.........................................274 8. Crab Salad ...........................................275 9. Dandelion Salad ......................................275 10. Dandelion with Bacon..................................275 11. Lamb’s Tongue Salad..................................275 12. Doucette Salad ..................................275 13. Escarole Salad ..................................275 14. Lettuce...............................................275 15. Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes...........................275 16. Lobster Salad ........................................276 17. Lobster Salad, Mixed..................................276 18. Salad Macedoine ......................................276 19. Meat Salad ...........................................276INDEX 313 Number Page 20. Fish Salad..........................................276 21. Tomato Salad .......................................276 22. Potato Salad........................................276 CHAPTER 20. Sandwiches 1. Plain Sandwiches....................................277 2. Club Sandwich ......................................277 3. Water Cress Sandwich................................277 4. Nut Sandwich........................................277 5. Egg Sandwich .......................................277 6. Shrimp Sandwich ....................................277 7. Pimento Sandwich ...................................277 Appendix 1. Stuffing (A) .......................................278 2. Spiced Fruit, or Sweet Pickled Fruit................278 3. Chow-Chow ..........................................278 Explanations for the Chef...........................278A-278BILLUSTRATIONS—MISCELLANEOUS Number Page I, 2 and 3. Jumble Cookies, Pressed........................... 77 4. Meringues, Macaroons or Jumbles, cocoanut or almond top. Refer to meringue and jumble dough recipes.............. 77 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. Jumble Cookies or Meringue, with cocoanut or candied fruit. The center can be filled before baking with frangipane and iced after baking. Refer to meringue, jumble dough and frangipane recipes.............. 77 II, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16. Crème au Beurre Slices. Made of Butter Cream and sponge cake layers, decorated with fondant icing, candied fruit or whatever the fancy may direct. Refer to butter cream and sponge cake recipes. Size of cake: 1 inch high, %-inch wide and 3% inches long.................... 78 16A, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21. Made of meringue or jumble dough, macaroon or lady finger composition; decorated with candied fruits, shredded cocoanut, sliced almond nonpareille, or whatever the fancy may direct. Refer to the recipes mentioned before ................................................. 79 22, 23, 24 and 25. Made of macaroon paste, baked in soft oven, on paper; flatten the cakes a little with a wet towel before baking......................................................... 80 26, 27, 28 and 29. Made of petit four paste, with star tube; dried over night; baked in hot oven on paper, washed with soft gum arabic when still hot from oven..................... 80 30, 31, 32 and 33. Made of petit fourre or jumble dough, with plain or star tube; refer to recipes.................... 81 34, 35 and 36. Made of meringue or jumble dough composition; dressed with star tube...................................... 81 37, 38, 39, 40, 41 and 42. Made of macaroon paste by hand; decorated as fancy directs................................. 82 44. Pyramid, made of macaroons or kisses; decorated with pulled sugar tragacanth or marzipan paste......................180 45 and 46. Timbales, Made of puff paste; baked in muffin tins covered with paper and cherry pits; to be used for meat or fish................................................. 83 47. Wedding Cake. Pillars made of tragacanth paste, nougat, tin, or hard boiled sugar.................................... 84 48. French Brioche. Refer to recipe.......................... 85 49. German Coffee Cake. Refer to recipe..................... 85INDEX 315 Number Page 50. Tart Nouvelle. Two layers of puff paste. The top of this pastry is made of cream puff paste with plain tube the size of a lead pencil, on dry, flour-dusted baking pans ; let it rest for 20 minutes under granulated sugar before baking in a slow oven .............................................. 86 51. Top of Fancy Cake. Made with ornamental icing, candied fruit and orange quarters............................... 87 52. 53, 54 and 55. Made of jumble dough or sponge layers and marmalade; iced with fondant icing and decorated with candied fruits................................... 88 56. Made of nougat; decorated with pulled sugar or marzipan. This can be filled with whipped cream or ice cream...... 89 57. Form, in three parts, made of tin; to be used for pyramids, etc. 90 58. Nougat Basket. Filled with whipped cream, candied fruits or ice cream .............................................. 91 59. Meringue and candied fruit decorations, for pie or cake...92 60. Glacé Royal, and candied fruit decoration................. 93 61. Ornamenting icing and candied fruit....................... 94 62. The same as No. 61........................................ 95 63. Made of nougat............................................ 96 64. Petit Fourre Paste; decorated with candied fruits......... 97 65. Decoration made of marzipan, by hand or pressed in form. ... 98 66. 67, 68, 69, 70 and 71. Cookies decorated with meringue, glacé royal, or pressed in form before baking................. 99 72 and 73. Made of Meringue layers and whipped cream... .100-101 74. Strawberry Short Cake.....................................102 75. St. Honoré Puff Paste Layer Cake. Little cream puffs, glacéd orange quarters and candied fruits, filled with whipped cream ................... .......................103 76. 77 and 78. Butter Cream Layer Cakes. Coffee, chocolate, or whatever it is, decorated with butter cream and small pieces of roasted almonds...................................104-106 79. Cream Layer Cake. Decorated with lady fingers, meringue fingers or cat tongues..................................107 80. Have jumble dough bottoms. Decorated with deep-colored meringue, covered with a thin natural grape jelly, very hot; roasted cocoanut or small pieces almonds.........108 81. Meringue Layer Cake, and candied fruit decoration.........109 82. The same as No. 81........................................110 83. Charlotte Russe. Lady fingers, whipped cream or ice cream.Ill 84. Layer Cake or Pie. Meringue, whipped cream or butter cream decorations ............................................112 85. Ice Cream Brick...........................................113 86. Charlotte Russe for whipped cream, ice cream or butter cream 113316 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 87. Made of nougat and pulled sugar, for whipped cream or ice cream ...................................................114 88, 89, 90, 91 and 92. Made of meringue or sponge layers; whipped cream or butter cream and ornamenting icing; roasted cocoanut or almond pieces....................115-118 93 and 94. Made of puff paste and filled in with assorted colored marmalades. Can be made of a baked jumble dough layer, decorated with petit fourre paste; bake very hot and fill ...........................................................119-120 95. Ice Cream, decorated with pulled sugar, orange quarters and cherries ................................................121 96. Made of a sponge cake roll and butter cream, the same as jelly roll; decorated with butter cream, hard sugar or marzipan ............................................122 97. To be cut out and used for centerpieces, made of nougat, meringue, tragacanth, chocolate or hard-boiled sugar.....123 98. Whipped cream, butter cream, glace royal or marzipan decora- tions; made by hand or pressed in form...................124 99. Horn of Plenty. Made of nougat, butter cream, fruits and flowers .................................................125 100. Palm Leaf, made of pastry.................................126 101. Buffalo Tongue; pastry rolled in sugar....................126 102. 103 and 104. Ornaments made of ornamenting icing, trag- acanth or marzipan, by hand or pressed in form...........126 105. Cake or Pie-Top Decoration, of marzipan, meringue or butter cream; roasted cocoanut, almond or hazelnut pieces.......127 106, 107 and 108. Ornaments, made of tragacanth, chocolate, nougat or caramel sugar..................................128 109. Meringue Shells, with whipped cream or ice cream filling. .129 110. Mazarino, made with yeast or sweet dough and whipped cream ...................................................129 111. Savaryn, made with yeast dough and whipped cream..........129 112 and 113. Ornaments, made of nougat, chocolate, caramel sugar, tragacanth or marzipan............................130 114. Wedding Cake. To be decorated as the fancy directs........131 115. Wedding Cake. To be decorated as the fancy directs........132 116. Macaroon, meringue or cream puff paste pyramid, to be filled with whipped cream.......................................133 117. Centerpiece, made of jumble dough bottom, nougat, little cream puffs and hard boiled sugar........................134 118. 119, 120, 121 and 122. French Pastries. Made of butter cream, French pastry, sponge cake mixture and meringue. .135 123. Ornamenting Tube..........................................135 124, 125, 126, 127, 128 and 129. French pastries made of French pastry mixture, cream puff dough or meringue.........136-137INDEX 317 Number Page 130. Ornamenting tube; bend comma-shape for butter cream flowers, etc..............................................137 131. Coffee Eclair ..........................................136 132. Cake or Pie Decoration.....................................138 133. 134, 135 and 136. Petit fourre, or small cakes.............139 137 to 155. Decorations for small cakes or tarts; made of butter cream, meringue, hard-boiled sugar or marzipan; made by hand, pressed or with ornamenting tube................140-143 156. Nougat center piece; top and bottom can be made in milk or cake tin and statue cut out single and put together, top can be filled with butter cream or ice cream, fruit, flowers or candies ..................................................144 157, 158, 159, 160, 161, and 162. Made of nougat, chocolate, hard- boiled sugar, marzipan, tragacanth or pâté d’office (pâté d’office is a mixture of flour and plain syrup) ; cut or pressed into forms, the same as for springele or speculaas, and baked in a soft oven, very dry....................145-150 163. Layer Cake. Glacé royal and marzipan decorations..........151 164. Layer Cake or Pie Decoration, of butter cream and meringue 152 165. Layer Cake Decoration, of butter cream, marzipan and meringue .................................................153 166. Layer Cake Glacé Royal Decoration..........................154 167. Pastry Layer, with marmalade...............................155 168. Layer Cake Decoration, of glacé royal and candied fruits.. .156 169. Meringue and Red Jelly Decoration..........................157 170. Meringue Decoration, for cake or pie.......................158 171. Cake and Pie Decoration....................................159 172 to 179. Decorations. Made by hand or pressed in forms; made of marzipan, chocolate, butter cream, meringue or glacé royal ..........................................160-163 180. Made of nougat, tragacanth, chocolate or hard-boiled sugar and decorated as the fancy may direct; butter cream or marzipan flowers look beautiful on top....................164 181 and 182. Made of meringue; filled with whipped cream and turned over and decorated.................................165 183. Ice Cream and Bavarian Cream. See recipe...................166 184. Centerpiece, made of nougat and hard-boiled sugar and butter cream fruit; flowers and leaves....................167 185. Made of nougat and hard-boiled sugar.......................168 186 to 191. Glacé Royal, or White of Egg Icing Ornaments. Made on wax paper and dried. For use on table ornaments or centerpieces..........................................169-170318 THE CHEF DE CUISINE Number Page 192 to 199. Forms for flowers; made of a solid piece of lead; have them very clean and greased very little; dip them into hard-boiled sugar and hang them up until nearly cold; take the sugar shell and you will have a nice flower of whatever color you desire. This is a dandy article for the decoration of centerpieces, fancy ice creams, and so on...........................171 200. Beehive. Square made of water ice, ice cream, cake or nougat; top, or hive, made of meringue rings, sprinkled with almond pieces; to be filled with ice cream, whipped cream, candy or fruit.............................................172 201. Melon. Square made of ice cream, cake or nougat, melon made from ice cream, and ornament with hard boiled sugar. Have the outside of melon pistachio, next a layer of coffee, with center strawberry.....................................173 202. Heart shaped box made of nougat, hard boiled sugar, choco- late or gum paste, filled with fruit, nuts, candies, ice cream or whipped cream; or the whole piece made of sponge cake, muscovite or whatever your fancy desires...................174 203. Proceed the same as in No. 201.............................175 204. Proceed the same as in No. 201.............................176 205. Made of nougat and hard boiled sugar, filled with candy, fruits, nuts, whipped cream or ice cream..................177 206. Basket of Cauliflower. Square made of cake, nougat or ice cream; basket and leaves of hard boiled sugar; cauliflowers made of whipped cream or ice cream.........................178 207. Proceed the same as in No. 206.............................179INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS — KITCHEN Number Page 1. Patties, with green peas.................................279 2. Hash and poached eggs....................................279 3. Hash, fried in bread crumbs in center, border of mashed potatoes and a sprinkling of parsley.........................279 4. Deviled Crabs............................................280 5. Pastry Timbales, filled with meat or fish................280 6. Chops, with green peas...................................280 7. Pot Roast ...............................................281 8. Tenderloin Steak and garnish.............................281 9. Croquettes ..............................................282 10. Shells ..................................................282 11. Oysters .................................................282 12. Broiled Fish ............................................283 13. Small Fish...............................................283 14. Boiled Fish .............................................283 15. Fish Squares.............................................284 16. Steak and garnish........................................284 17. Steak and garnish........................................284 18 and 19. Belgium Meat Patties. This form has no bottom and swings apart; line the mold with a paste made of: iy2 pounds flour, ^4 pound butter, salt, 5 egg yolks, and milk quite stiff; put in a layer of soaked and pressed dry bread crumbs mixed with pork sausage and well seasoned; then a layer of sliced ham; repeat this three times, have it good and full, cover with the same dough or paste and decorate it with the same; wash with strong egg wash, two times, and bake for an hour and a half.............................285 20. Basket made of orange or tomato..........................286 21. Tomato Salad.............................................286