The Voyage 
 
 of a 
 
 Vice-Chaneellor 
 
THE VOYAGE 
 
 OF A 
 VICE-CHANCELLOR 
 
The Voyage 
 
 of a 
 
 Vice-Chancellor 
 
 CAMBRIDGE 
 
 AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS 
 1919 
 
CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS 
 
 C. F. CLAY, MANAGER 
 LONDON : FETTER LANE, E.C. 4 
 
 NEW YORK : G. P. PUTNAM S SONS 
 
 BOMBAY ] 
 
 CALCUTTA I MACMILLAN AND CO., LTD. 
 
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 TORONTO : J. M. DENT AND SONS, LTD. 
 
 TOKYO : MARUZEN-KABUSHIKI-KAISHA 
 
 t t c g 4JUL, RIGHTS RESERVED 
 
GENTI 
 INTER OMNES GENTES 
 
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 4265C7 
 
Preface 
 
 THE following extracts are from a private 
 diary which the Author wrote whilst on an 
 extensive tour in the United States during 
 the autumn of 1918 as a member of the 
 British University Mission. Our Mission 
 had been invited to the United States by 
 the Council of Defense at Washington and 
 had been sent out under the auspices of the 
 British Foreign Office. For more than 
 sixty days we went up and down a vast 
 country, travelling many thousands of 
 miles, and seeing so many Universities and 
 Colleges and so many Presidents and Pro 
 fessors that those amongst us who had not 
 hitherto had the privilege of visiting the 
 United States formed the idea that all its 
 cities are university cities and that all the 
 inhabitants are professors, an idea very 
 awful to contemplate ! 
 
v PREFACE 
 
 As the Author has tried to indicate in his 
 Dedication, everywhere we went we met 
 with kindness, and kindness that came from 
 the brain as well as from the heart. But 
 especially we owe thanks to certain " guides, 
 philosophers, and friends " who shepherded 
 our steps. One of these, an official of the 
 United States Bureau of Education at 
 Washington, accompanied us on the whole 
 tour. His extraordinary powers of organiza 
 tion, his inexhaustible information, and his 
 ready and self-sacrificing help, cannot be 
 too highly praised. Others who helped us 
 on our trip were: the Secretary of the 
 Reception Committee of the Council (a 
 professor of Harvard), who met us on our 
 arrival at New York and accompanied us 
 to Washington, and later to Boston; the 
 American Secretary of the Rhodes Scholars 
 (a professor of the Massachusetts Institute 
 of Technology), who guided us from Boston 
 to Chicago. From Chicago to Minneapolis 
 we had the great advantage of the presence 
 
PREFACE IX 
 
 of the Chairman of the Reception Commit 
 tee of the American Council on Education 
 (a President of one of the leading Colleges 
 in the Middle West) ; and the President of 
 the University of Kentucky travelled with 
 us from St Louis to Lexington, where 
 his own University is situate. All these 
 gentlemen were ever ready and helpful in 
 explaining the intricacies of American 
 university life. We were fortunate enough 
 to meet them at many centres, and always 
 found the same helpful advice, and care for 
 our welfare. To each and all of them we 
 owe a deep debt of gratitude. 
 
 Certain chapters of this Diary have ap 
 peared in Scribner s Magazine, New York, 
 and others in Country Life, London. The 
 owners and editors of these monthly or 
 weekly publications have given the author 
 leave to reprint and he thanks them. 
 
 A. E. S. 
 ST GEORGE S DAY, 1919. 
 
" It is always a writer s duty to make the world better. " 
 
 DR JOHNSON. 
 

 Chapter I 
 THE ATLANTIC 
 
 " In the midst of this sublime and terrible storm, Dame 
 Partington...was seen at the door of her house, 
 with mop and pattens, trundling her mop, squeez 
 ing out the sea-water, and vigorously pushing away 
 the Atlantic Ocean. The Atlantic was roused. Mrs 
 Partington s spirit was up ; but I need not tell you 
 that the contest was unequal. The Atlantic Ocean 
 beat Mrs Partington. She was excellent at a slop, 
 or a puddle, but she should not have meddled with 
 a tempest." 
 
 SYDNEY SMITH, Speech on the Reform Bill, 
 delivered at Taunton, England, Oct. 12, 1831. 
 
 September 2 5 th 5 1918 
 
 |HE present passport is 
 pink, printed on pink 
 paper with little red 
 lines criss-crossing all 
 about it. Gone and 
 probably gone for ever 
 are those aristocratic old passports with 
 
 s. 
 
fine lettering on fine paper, down the face 
 of which ran a stream of historic titles 
 which, in the two the Government basely 
 forced me to surrender in exchange for the 
 present pink abomination, began with a 
 Marquisate and trickled through the lower 
 degrees of the peerage until one ended in 
 a Barony or two, and the other fell as low 
 as a Baronetcy. So many historic titles 
 seemed to justify the "We," which reads 
 a little odd as, "We, Arthur James 
 Balfour." Each of my old passports was 
 studded over with "vises" and "per- 
 missos" and covered over with gorgeous 
 Russian and Turkish stamps and much 
 Cyrillic and Arabic script. These I had 
 to give up in exchange for a common- 
 looking paper marked by a rubber stamp in 
 violet-blue ink, which simply "shouted" at 
 the pink, with the word "seen." 
 
 The older form could be folded up and 
 put away in a pocket-book and forgotten 
 till asked for, the new form is bound up in 
 
*{ 3 }* 
 
 cheap green boards of such a size as to be 
 always intruding on one, no matter how 
 wide one s pockets are. The old passport 
 had the reticence of a gentleman and was 
 content with your signature, the new one 
 clamours for vulgar details about your age 
 and personal appearance, and it gets them. 
 The difference between passports ancient 
 and modern may be compared with the 
 difference between a clean 5 note, with 
 its crisp, white paper, fine lettering and the 
 romance of its secret signs, and that modern 
 form of " filthy lucre " the current los. note. 
 
 Thursday, September 2 6 th 
 
 We arrived at our Port of Embarka 
 tion in a gale and it continued to blow all 
 the night, and all the next day, 
 
 Friday, September 2 7 th 
 
 during which we wistfully tried 
 to fulfil the divergent and incoherent 
 
 [ 2 
 
*{ 4 }* 
 
 instructions we had severally received from 
 the Minister of Information: and it blew 
 all the night of that day. On 
 
 Saturday, September 2 8 th 
 
 it blew worse than ever and our 
 pessimist, who is an authority on weather, 
 cheered us up by assuring us that we were 
 embarking at the very worst time of the 
 year and that we should have equinoctial 
 gales the whole way across. 
 
 It wasn t so easy to get on board. We 
 stood in a vast, damp, dreary dock in two 
 queues, saloon passengers and steerage 
 passengers, and waited to have our papers 
 inspected. Our inspector was of a slowness 
 beyond words and when at last I was getting 
 near to him I was so angered by a pompous 
 man "on somebody s staff" pushing ahead 
 of all of us and engaging in an interminable 
 conversation with our man, that I deserted 
 
*{ 5 }* 
 
 my class and joined the steerage group and 
 was on board in five minutes. I was a little 
 sorry that I did this as I saw a poor old 
 Jamaican negro " turned down." Some one 
 had told him that Jamaica was in America 
 and he had, with a fine impartiality, 
 registered on one paper as an American 
 citizen and on another as a British citizen. 
 I wonder what became of him. I suppose 
 I shall never know. 
 
 Later in the day I had my revenge on 
 the staff man. He turned out to be a suc 
 cessful writer of the more vacuous forms of 
 revue, and he took his art and himself very 
 seriously. After luncheon he changed his 
 tunic and put on a Norfolk jacket so that 
 down to his waist his torso or bust was 
 civilian, whilst below his waist his lower 
 extremities were military. In effecting this 
 exchange something had gone wrong with 
 his braces and all that afternoon and 
 evening he walked about in a stately and 
 haughty way festooned behind with loops 
 
*{ 6 }* 
 
 which recalled the flowery swags of 
 Mantegna s pictures. 
 
 Sunday, September 29* 
 
 On Sunday morning we moved from 
 the dock into the river and waited till tea- 
 time on its muddy and rubbish-laden 
 waters. The wind had completely dropped 
 and a sabbath-calm and a river-fog lay on 
 everything. All day we waited swinging 
 with the tide until about 5 P.M. when we 
 felt the first delicious thrill of the engine at 
 work. All this day large tenders laden with 
 hundreds and hundreds of American soldiers 
 passed us going up-stream to the City on 
 their way from the troop-ships lying further 
 down near the mouth of the river. 
 
 On coming on board on the previous day 
 it became obvious that when not on deck 
 we should be living entirely in artificial 
 light. All windows and port-holes had 
 been made absolutely light-proof and whilst 
 
*{ 7 }* 
 
 the public saloon and state-rooms were 
 brilliantly lit up, no ray of light was allowed 
 to leave them. After dark the decks were 
 quite black and if you groped on to them 
 it was through heavy curtains and blackened 
 doors. The insignificant glow of a cigarette 
 was strictly forbidden and the darkness 
 of the outside was infinitely darker than 
 Cambridge or even Norwich at its worst. 
 
 During the morning each passenger was 
 given a Boddy s Life Jacket and at 4 P.M. 
 we were paraded on Deck B and received 
 a card indicating which boat was ours, and 
 to this we went. An officer who ought to 
 be a University Lecturer then in one 
 of the clearest, concisest and shortest of 
 speeches told us what we were to do in case 
 there was need to do anything. We were 
 all wearing the life-jackets and I had thought 
 we should feel a little self-conscious, if not 
 ludicrous, but we didn t. It all seemed so 
 natural, and so much in the day s work, 
 that one took it as though one had worn 
 
*{ 8 }* 
 
 such robes for years. These jackets are 
 stuffed with the fibres known commercially 
 as kapok. For the following account of this 
 vegetable product I am indebted to Mr 
 L. H. Dewey of the Bureau of Plant 
 Industry, Washington, whose letter I quote : 
 The name kapok is a Malay name, 
 applied to a cotton-like down produced 
 in the seed pods of the kapok, or randoe, 
 tree, Ceibapentandra. This tree is native 
 in the West Indies and in many parts of 
 tropical America. It has been widely dis 
 tributed in the Tropics of both hemi 
 spheres and is found on many of the 
 tropical islands. In English-speaking 
 colonies it is usually known as the silk- 
 cotton tree. In Spanish-speaking colonies 
 it is more often known as ceiba, though 
 the name ceiba is often applied to other 
 species of the genus Ceiba, and often to 
 some of the species of the genera Bombax 
 and Chorisia. 
 
 The kapok tree was introduced into 
 
*{ 9 }* 
 
 Java at least half a century ago, and it is 
 cultivated there over large plantations in 
 the region of Samarang, and is also grown 
 along the roadsides and borders of fields 
 on many plantations throughout the 
 central part of the island. 
 
 During the past ten years systematic 
 efforts have been made to set out kapok 
 trees in plantations, and especially along 
 roadsides, in the Philippines, and more 
 recently in Porto Rico. These newer 
 plantings, however, have not yet reached 
 a stage of commercial importance. 
 
 Nearly all of the kapok of commerce 
 hitherto has come from Java, and the 
 greater portion of it has been handled in 
 the markets of Rotterdam and Amster 
 dam, Holland. 
 
 Kapok has been used at least fifteen 
 years as the principal material in stuffing 
 life preservers and life belts on the Dutch 
 steamships sailing to the Orient, and also 
 on the North German Lloyd. I think 
 
*{ 10 }* 
 
 that it was used on the English P. & O. 
 Line, but I have never been on those 
 ships and have no definite information 
 on this point. It was used on the other 
 ships not only for life belts and life 
 preservers but also as a stuffing for mat 
 tresses and pillows. It is a very good 
 salutary stuffing and serves the purpose 
 quite well, except that it breaks to pieces 
 more quickly than cotton, wool, feathers, 
 or hair. 
 
 Kapok has been very thoroughly tested 
 for buoyancy by the Government of 
 Holland. I think that Professor Van 
 Iterson, of the Hoch Schule at Delft 
 either planned or was interested in some 
 of these tests. The results indicated that 
 it was the most buoyant material available 
 for various forms of life preservers. Its 
 buoyancy depends on each individual 
 fibre. These are unicellular hairs with 
 relatively thin walls, practically im 
 pervious to moisture, and, except under 
 
*{ II }* 
 
 very strong pressure, each individual cell 
 remains very distended, like a miniature 
 cigar-shaped balloon. In a life preserver, 
 therefore, they act like so many millions 
 of little sacks of air. 
 
 Kapok has been treated specially and 
 spun experimentally at Chemnitz, Ger 
 many, but it can not be classed as a 
 spinning fibre. It can not be spun alone 
 without special treatment on any machin 
 ery now made. The fibres, which average 
 scarcely more than 10 mm. in length, are 
 not only too short for ordinary spinning 
 material , but they lack felting properties 
 necessary to make them cling together so 
 as to form a yarn. This very lack of 
 " felting " properties, or the property of 
 becoming matted, makes them especially 
 valuable as stuffing fibres. In this re 
 spect a good stuffing fibre and a good 
 spinning fibre have qualities diametrically 
 opposed. 
 
*{ 12 }* 
 
 After this, even when we had passed the 
 danger-zone, we had always to carry these 
 jackets with us and as they were white 
 oblongs, with bold letters printed on them, 
 when we passed one another in the inspissated 
 gloom of the companion- or alley-ways, we 
 looked like ghosts of newsvendors from the 
 happy days when newspaper placards still 
 existed. We clung to our jackets as old ladies 
 cling to their white Shetland shawls, and, like 
 the old ladies, we sometimes left them about. 
 
 The same fibre is used in stuffing comely 
 waistcoats which are less conspicuous than 
 the "Boddy Jacket," and there is also a 
 waistcoat whose buoyancy depends on its 
 being blown up. Opinion varied as to the 
 relative values of these rival articles. Having 
 both I wore both, but if I had to choose 
 but one, I should choose the "Boddy," 
 though the wearer should know that kapok 
 is very inflammable. Before leaving, how 
 ever, I had consulted a friend of mine, 
 Dr P., who with his wife had just come 
 
*{ 13 I* 
 
 back from the States. On the whole he 
 spoke well of the blown-up waistcoat, at 
 least as regards himself, but he added, 
 "Mrs P. was not so sure as she was con 
 stantly deflating." 
 
 One elderly steward had been torpedoed 
 seven times and after taking to the boats 
 had been seven times rescued by the 
 destroyers. We naturally sought the advice 
 of so experienced an expert. You don t 
 urry Sir, you don t urry, there s always 
 plenty of time," was his sole and philosophic 
 contribution to the gentle art of being 
 torpedoed. Another somewhat younger 
 steward handing round tea and catching the 
 last glimpse of land, the north-west of 
 Ireland, calmly remarked: "Well, this is 
 about the place they generally gets me." 
 He had been torpedoed three out of his 
 last four trips. 
 
 We must have crossed the bar about 
 dinner-time, and these two words remind 
 me that in spite of certain obvious dis- 
 
*{ 14 }* 
 
 comforts, there were very substantial com 
 forts on board. We had left, as we were 
 told to do, our various ration-coupons on the 
 dock at the port of embarkation, and 
 crossing the gangway arrived in a ship 
 flowing with milk and honey a ship of 
 sweetness and in parts of light. We were 
 given white bread, lots of cream, real butter, 
 Stilton cheese, sugar even lump sugar 
 any amount of marmalade or jam, quantities 
 of fruit, not only apples if Eve had lived 
 in 1918 I don t believe she would have 
 wangled Adam with an apple but grape 
 fruit, melons, oranges, pears, grapes, nuts, 
 etc., etc. One couldn t help feeling with 
 the fat boy in Pickwick, "How we shall 
 enjoy ourselves at meals." 
 
 We dropped down the river that evening 
 in the foggy darkness and then ! 
 
 Monday, September 30* 
 
 On coming on deck on Monday I 
 came on to one of the most glorious and 
 
*{ i5 }* 
 
 fascinating scenes I have ever seen. The 
 sun was shining brilliantly, the dancing sea 
 was a perfect blue with glistening white 
 caps. To the left lay Rathlin Island and the 
 shimmering coast of Antrim, to the right 
 Jura and Islay, a fitting and satisfying 
 setting for the centre of the stage which was 
 occupied by our amazing convoy. We had 
 been told we were the largest convoy that 
 had left our shores, but then we had been 
 told so many things ! Anyway, here in the 
 blue sunshine and on the dancing sea was 
 a score of great ships, and such ships ! They 
 were painted in every colour of the prism 
 and in every variety of inconsecutive and 
 inchoate pattern. Solomon in all his glory 
 was not so variegated as any one of these 
 amazing vessels, though doubtless his colour 
 scheme was more coherent. 
 
 To explain these bizarre and dazzling 
 things it is necessary to make a brief 
 excursus into that manner of art known as 
 Cubism. I do not propose to say anything 
 
*{ 16 }* 
 
 about the cubist s pictures, for I never 
 could see anything in them, but what I 
 conceive to have happened is this: the 
 Cubists (or perhaps the most Cubic of 
 them) said to themselves, " There are a very 
 large number of average, ordinary, dull 
 people in this world who see nothing in our 
 pictures, therefore to those people there is 
 nothing to see and therefore to them they 
 are invisible." When the war broke out 
 these Cubists, who are as patriotic as they 
 are commercially capable, said, "If to the 
 average, ordinary, dull person our pictures 
 are invisible, could we not by painting the 
 British ships in our manner render them 
 invisible, say, to the commander of a 
 U-boat who in matters of art probably is 
 an average, ordinary, dull individual ?" At 
 any rate the Cubists seem to have got the 
 contract. 
 
 But however it came about we owe 
 gratitude to some one for providing us with 
 so radiantly beautiful a sight. At first we 
 
*{ I? }* 
 
 seemed to be moving in regular formation, 
 keeping our distance and our time, but 
 soon we changed the formation. We, as it 
 were, now set to partners, we advanced 
 towards our neighbours and then coyly (or 
 shyly) retired ; at one time it seemed to me 
 we were playing Roger de Coverley, "up 
 the middle and down the sides," zigzagging 
 and pirouetting across the ocean. The whole 
 thing was so exhilarating, so fantastic ! Yet 
 behind its grotesque and fascinating beauty 
 which put all the scenes of Chu Chin 
 Chow or any Granville Barker scenery into 
 the shade, for we were living, moving, 
 vibrating one felt such an amazing reality 
 of Britain s power and might. A sea-plane 
 flew over us, one of our own. I wish the 
 Kaiser had been in it. 
 
 All this time we were encompassed about 
 and shepherded by numerous destroyers who 
 tore up and down on every side spying out 
 the seas. They were not camouflaged but 
 grey-coloured and seemed so small that 
 
*{ 18 }* 
 
 one felt that if they had come within reach 
 one could have stretched a hand over the 
 taffrail and picked them up. We were dis 
 tressed that there was no way of thanking 
 them for their services. No more mono 
 tonous, more dangerous, more uncomfort 
 able life is there than that led by all ratings 
 on these convoying craft. What they do 
 should be more fully and more publicly 
 recognized. 
 
 In reading an unknown poet, at any rate 
 unknown to me, the other day, I came across 
 a poem No. 13 whose first line so 
 harmonised with my views about these 
 wonder-ships that I venture to quote it : 
 
 " GLORY BE TO GOD FOR DAPPLED 
 THINGS." 
 
 Eager to know more about one whose 
 appreciations so happily coincided with my 
 own views on "camouflage," I hastily 
 turned to the note contributed by our 
 Laureate : 
 
*{ J 9 }* 
 
 Poem 13. PIED BEAUTY. Curtal Sonnet: 
 sprung paeonic rhythm. St Beuno s Tremeir- 
 chion. Summer " 77 " Autograph in A. B 
 agrees. 
 
 " Faint but pursuing" for I felt I must 
 know at least who and when my bard was, 
 I turned to the author s preface. He at 
 least might know. Here I found that poem 
 number 13 is a Curtal- Sonnet 
 
 constructed in proportions resembling those of 
 the sonnet proper, namely 6, 4 instead of 8, 6, 
 with however a half line tailpiece (so that the 
 equation is rather -- + - = -- = io|). 
 
 I had hoped to find the personality of a 
 poet, but I stumbled against what looked 
 like an equation of an immature algebraist. 
 
 Tuesday, October I st 
 
 We closed the day in the centre of 
 a marine fairy scene, we awoke next 
 morning and found we had been dreaming. 
 
*{ 20 }* 
 
 A cold wet morning, a heavy sea, no trace 
 of the convoy, all the ships scattered on 
 their several occasions, the destroyers racing 
 back to port only to turn round and start 
 off again to escort another convoy out. 
 
 Owing to my having forgotten to put 
 back my watch over night 55 minutes, I got 
 up one hour before I had meant to. This 
 vexed me quite a bit; first, because I had 
 to live over again an hour that I had thought 
 satisfactorily disposed of, secondly, because 
 breakfast was not ready, and then I reflected 
 if this mischance had happened to me in 
 my own University, where I really ought 
 to have been, how easily could I have 
 reached the Senate House by 9.30 A.M. 
 without any undue effort. About the time 
 I should have been reading my annual 
 address to the Members of the Senate we 
 passed a large convoy going East. 
 
 It grew duller and rougher and for the 
 rest of to-day, as the poet has it, "a gentle 
 pensiveness my soul possessed." 
 
*{ 21 }* 
 
 Wednesday, October 2 nd 
 
 I think the Bishop for we have a 
 Bishop, and a Monsignore and a chaplain, 
 and several padres, a poet, an oil-man, a 
 play-writer, several members of the Cana 
 dian Siberian Commission, lots of flying 
 men and five Japanese on board in fact 
 just the ordinary crowd of men (there are 
 only men, why aren t there children?) 
 whom one is used to meet on liners. The 
 Bishop was arguing yesterday that there 
 could be no news if there was no one to 
 read it I think the Bishop must be an 
 idealist. His talk reminded me of Ronny 
 Knox s poem: 
 
 There was a young man who said, God! 
 It surely to you must seem odd 
 
 That a tree as a tree 
 
 Simply ceases to be 
 If there s no one about in the quad. 
 
 Well, to-day we received Monday s 
 French and American communiques and 
 
*{ 22 }* 
 
 we read them, so there was news and it 
 was good. 
 
 The Captain told us that our convoy 
 had been attacked by U-boats but, as the 
 modern phrase goes, there was "nothing 
 doing." The news that we had been at 
 tacked so cheered our pessimist that he had 
 an extra course at lunch. 
 
 Thursday , October 3 rd 
 
 The worst of travelling in a boat 
 primarily designed for freight, and which 
 is carrying no freight we had barely a 
 hundred tons on board is that the thing 
 becomes light-headed. There was a heavy 
 swell, and all Wednesday night and all 
 to-day we have bobbed about in a most 
 outrageous manner. Still to-day the sun is 
 shining. I have a great sympathy with 
 those folk who worship the sun. We sighted 
 a ship and immediately turned and fled 
 
*{ 23 }* 
 
 north. Evidently the neighbourhood of 
 ships in these waters is unhealthy. 
 
 About the fourth day, from the upper 
 deck or the ship s bow, we begin to see 
 floating patches of seaweed gulf weed, or 
 sargasso (Sargassum bacciferum), as it is 
 called. For the most part this appears as 
 single stems or in small rounded heads, 
 yellow-brown or olive-green, awash with 
 the surface. But, as we proceed southward, 
 larger masses appear. 
 
 William Beebe gives the following account 
 of the gulfweed in The Atlantic Monthly 
 (October, 1918, p. 477): 
 
 An amazing amount of fiction and 
 nonsense has been written about the 
 sargasso-weed, but the truth is actually 
 more unbelievable. Though we see it 
 in such immense patches, and although 
 for days the ocean may be flecked with 
 the scattered heads of the weed, yet it is 
 no more at home in mid-ocean than the 
 falling leaves in autumn may claim as 
 
*{ 24 }* 
 
 their place of abode the breeze which 
 whirls them about, or the moss upon 
 which at last they come to rest. Along 
 the coast of Central America the sargasso- 
 weed grows, on coral and rock and shell, 
 and flowering and fruiting after its lowly 
 fashion. The berry-like bladders with 
 which the stems are strung are filled with 
 gas, and enable the plants to maintain 
 their position regardless of the state of 
 the tide. Vast quantities are torn away 
 by the waves and drift out to sea, and 
 these stray masses are what we see on 
 every trip south, which, caught in the 
 great mid-ocean eddy, form the so- 
 called Sargasso Sea. 
 
 The weed along the coast is honest 
 growth, with promise of permanence. 
 The great floating Sargasso Sea is per 
 manent only in appearance; and when 
 finally the big masses drift, with all their 
 lesser attendant freight, into the Gulf 
 Stream, then life becomes a sham. There 
 
*{ 25 }* 
 
 can be no more fruiting or sustained 
 development of gas-filled berries. No 
 eggs of fish or crabs will hatch, no new 
 generation of sea-horses or mollusks 
 appear among the stems. Bravely the 
 fronds float along; day by day the 
 hundred little lives breathe and feed and 
 cling to their drifting home. But soon 
 the gas-berries decay, and the frond 
 sinks lower and lower; as the current 
 flows northward, and the water becomes 
 cooler, the crabs move less rapidly, the 
 fish nibble less eagerly at the bits of 
 passing food. Soon a sea-horse lets go, 
 and falls slowly downward, to be snapped 
 up at once, or to sink steadily into the 
 eternal dusk and black night of deeper 
 fathoms. Soon the plant follows and, 
 like all its chilled pensioners, dies. The 
 supply from the Sargasso Sea seems un 
 failing, but one s sympathies are touched 
 by these little assemblages, so teeming 
 with the hope of life, all doomed by the 
 
*{ 26 }* 
 
 current which is at once their support, 
 their breath, and their kismet. 
 
 Friday, October 4* 
 
 Wet, warm, with a sticky moisture, 
 and still very rough. I think this day we 
 must have passed through a cyclone. About 
 luncheon time the sea and the wind simply 
 seemed to lose all control over themselves. 
 They raged like the heathen, and we tossed 
 and pitched more than ever. At dinner 
 time things began to improve and for some 
 three hours it was merely rough, then the 
 whole thing began over again and half the 
 night or more was a pandemonium of noise 
 and turmoil. 
 
 Saturday, October 5* 
 
 The sea is still very rough, but the 
 air is dry and the sun shines. This is an 
 immense improvement and the berths are 
 
*{ 27 }* 
 
 beginning to give up their dead. They say 
 we are south of the Newfoundland Banks. 
 Sea-weed is again drifting about, probably 
 on its long journey from the Sargasso Sea. 
 In the afternoon we saw a balk of timber 
 slithering up and down the climbing waves. 
 It filled me with a sense of unutterable 
 loneliness. What was it doing in this limit 
 less waste of waters ? Whence had it come ? 
 Whither was it going ? Why ? What would 
 be its future? Probably months of restless 
 tossing accompanied by an ever-increasing 
 water-loggedness until it slowly sinks to the 
 abysmal bosom of the " benthos" to form 
 a resting-place for deep-sea barnacles to 
 nestle on and a shelter under which 
 chaetopods can creep. 
 
 Sunday, October 6 th 
 
 The weather is worthy of the day, 
 warm, without winds, brilliant sunshine and 
 a low, slow swell. We passed a Belgian relief 
 
*{ 28 }* 
 
 ship so beautifully camouflage that it looked 
 twice as far off as the Captain said it was. 
 
 Morning service (Matins) was at 10.30. 
 Acting on the dictum of the Bishop that the 
 only pleasure in life that never palls is 
 stopping away from Sunday morning 
 church, I stopped away and went on with 
 my writing, but I was represented at the 
 service by the Boy who also acted as 
 organist and played "God Save the King" 
 and three hymns. Cuthbert, who wasn t 
 feeling quite up to it, also stayed away. He 
 has not been down to a meal since we left 
 the river of the port of embarkation ! 
 
 In the afternoon the washing came back. 
 The shortage of starch, which has so 
 agitated the Episcopal Bench at home, is 
 evidently not felt in this wonderful ship. 
 
 Monday, October 7 th 
 
 All night it has been stiflingly hot and 
 as we must not open a port-hole it has been 
 
*{ 2 9 }* 
 
 rather oppressive. At six o clock it suddenly 
 began to blow, quite suddenly and with a 
 noise like the opening of an exhaust pipe. 
 The steward informs us that the sky is full 
 of "mouse s tails," a cryptic but ominous 
 utterance. 
 
 The Captain we don t see much of the 
 Captain told us that he had had to cut off 
 ten feet of the distal end of his masts in order 
 that his ship may pass under the Grand 
 Trunk and Intercolonial Railway Bridge, 
 which is at last in position above Quebec. 
 I am not an expert on masts and they look 
 to me very well as they are, but he evidently 
 resents his loss and has a bit of a grudge 
 against the Railway Companies. 
 
 Every morning I read a daily portion 
 of Professor G. E. Maclean s excellent 
 Studies in Higher Education in England 
 and Scotland. I was pleased this morning 
 to come across the following lines : 
 
 The duties of the Vice-Chancellor 
 
 at Oxford and Cambridge are so 
 
*{ 3 }* 
 
 numerous and complex that it is not 
 unusual for his health to break down, 
 though his term of office is only two or 
 four years. 
 
 " There is probably during term time 
 no more harder worked official in the 
 United Kingdom/ 
 
 I wish I did not feel so well ! 
 
 Tuesday, October 8 th 
 
 A very rough night, the screw con 
 stantly racing out of the water and jarring 
 one out of one s sleep. To those who like 
 myself sleep very slowly this was a bit of a 
 nuisance, but joy came in the morning. At 
 sunrise the turmoil abated and we had a 
 day of brilliant sunshine, tempered by a 
 cool, north-easterly breeze. 
 
 This morning we got Cuthbert on deck 
 and he sat in the Bishop s deck chair for 
 some hours. I think the sun and the fresh 
 
*{ 3i }* 
 
 air did him good. He is certainly eating 
 better. 
 
 Wednesday, October p th 
 
 Coming up towards Sandy Hook on a 
 perfectly placid sea we were blessed with 
 just that amount of haze which turned 
 Coney Island into Venice, the sea into an 
 Adriatic lagoon. We might have left Trieste 
 overnight ! The same merciful mist changed 
 the clear-cut outlines of the sky-scrapers 
 into Turner s pictures, and the Boy and 
 the Poet became ecstatic with the ecstasy 
 of youth. On landing, the joy of Cuthbert 
 and the Boy on being again on "terra 
 firma," for New York is built on bed rock 
 a very sustaining form of Gneiss, known 
 as Manhattan Gneiss, capable of bearing 
 great burdens or what would the sky 
 scrapers do, poor things? was so great 
 that they waltzed along the dock until they 
 
*{ 32 }* 
 
 reached their respective initials and awaited 
 with such patience as they could command 
 the official visits of the officers of the 
 Customs. 
 
 Everything was made easy for us and 
 that evening we began the series of cease 
 less kindlinesses and unbounded hospitali 
 ties which continued all our trip. 
 
Chapter II 
 THE STATES 
 
 "If these two creatures grew into one 
 They would do more than the world has done. 
 BROWNING, The Flight of the Duchess. 
 
 Thursday, October io th 
 
 ?AST night it was broken 
 to me, in the kindest 
 possible way, in sym 
 pathetic terms which 
 could not be more " ten 
 derer," if we may quote 
 Mr Weller Senior, that I am to be 
 painted for the Harvard Club. This morn 
 ing I gave the first sitting at a charming 
 
 studio in Gramercy Park. I am not one 
 
 s. 3 
 
*{ 36 }* 
 
 his duty to the Liberty Loan. That 
 perennial source of difference, marble, 
 bronze or lead is eliminated. Bronze it is, 
 and bronze is as durable as brass. Mr 
 Chauncey M. Depew pronounced the 
 eulogy himself, and no one could have 
 done it better. A man, even a politician, is 
 very conscious of his own virtues and no 
 ex-Senator can be charged with that lack 
 of appreciation of the subject of his 
 memorial statue which is often met with 
 in unveiling orations on post-mortem in 
 augurations. We shared Cuthbert s dis 
 appointment. 
 
 Dined with the members of Harvard 
 University at their splendid Club and made 
 speeches. 
 
 Saturday, October ia th 
 
 To-day, being Liberty Day, Mr 
 Wilson put on a black coat and a top-hat 
 and marched with an interminable pro- 
 
*{ 37 }* 
 
 cession down Fifth Avenue. I saw it soon 
 after n A.M. and again about 4P.M. and 
 for all I know it may still be marching. The 
 whole thing was impressive, but the " mo 
 ment " was the passing of the President 
 carrying a small flag. One could not help 
 reflecting on the power of good it would do 
 if the Pope would put on a black coat and 
 a top-hat and walk down the Corso. Such 
 things seem to bring folk together. 
 
 Dined with the New York Schoolmasters 
 at the Aldine Club, down-town, and made 
 speeches. After dinner went to the Audi 
 torium, away up-town, and made more 
 speeches. At 5.30 P.M. on this day there 
 was not in this Continent a soul more keen 
 about Liberty than I was, but by 10.30 P.M. 
 I had weakened quite a bit. I had listened 
 to eighteen speeches on the subject and 
 delivered two. I sympathized with Patrick 
 Henry who exclaimed after marrying his 
 fourth wife, " Give me Liberty or give me 
 Death, I prefer Death. " 
 
*{ 36 }* 
 
 his duty to the Liberty Loan. That 
 perennial source of difference, marble, 
 bronze or lead is eliminated. Bronze it is, 
 and bronze is as durable as brass. Mr 
 Chauncey M. Depew pronounced the 
 eulogy himself, and no one could have 
 done it better. A man, even a politician, is 
 very conscious of his own virtues and no 
 ex- Senator can be charged with that lack 
 of appreciation of the subject of his 
 memorial statue which is often met with 
 in unveiling orations on post-mortem in 
 augurations. We shared Cuthbert s dis 
 appointment. 
 
 Dined with the members of Harvard 
 University at their splendid Club and made 
 speeches. 
 
 Saturday, October 12 th 
 
 To-day, being Liberty Day, Mr 
 Wilson put on a black coat and a top-hat 
 and marched with an interminable pro- 
 
*{ 37 }* 
 
 cession down Fifth Avenue. I saw it soon 
 after IIA.M. and again about 4P.M. and 
 for all I know it may still be marching. The 
 whole thing was impressive, but the " mo 
 ment " was the passing of the President 
 carrying a small flag. One could not help 
 reflecting on the power of good it would do 
 if the Pope would put on a black coat and 
 a top-hat and walk down the Corso. Such 
 things seem to bring folk together. 
 
 Dined with the New York Schoolmasters 
 at the Aldine Club, down-town, and made 
 speeches. After dinner went to the Audi 
 torium, away up -town, and made more 
 speeches. At 5.30 P.M. on this day there 
 was not in this Continent a soul more keen 
 about Liberty than I was, but by 10.30 P.M. 
 I had weakened quite a bit. I had listened 
 to eighteen speeches on the subject and 
 delivered two. I sympathized with Patrick 
 Henry who exclaimed after marrying his 
 fourth wife, " Give me Liberty or give me 
 Death, I prefer Death." 
 
*{ 38 }* 
 
 Sunday, October 13 th 
 
 Motored some forty miles up the 
 Hudson, a brilliant day in all senses. Dined 
 with the Rhodes Scholars at the Harvard 
 Club and made speeches. 
 
 Monday, October 14 th 
 
 As our newspapers say when the 
 House of Commons has an all-night session, 
 I am " still sitting " to my artist. I took 
 Cuthbert to see her and the two got on 
 very well together. We left in the afternoon 
 for Washington and dined on the train. We 
 made no speeches. 
 
 Tuesday, October 1 5 th 
 
 During the afternoon, President 
 Wilson received us and very cordially asked 
 us to lunch on Thursday, October lyth. 
 After leaving him we spent a couple of hours 
 
*{ 39 }* 
 
 with Bishop Shane at the Roman Catholic 
 University where amongst many things we 
 saw was a fully equipped and entirely 
 modern Chemical Laboratory, as large or 
 almost as large as any in Great Britain. 
 In this worked monks and priests of most 
 of the religious orders 
 
 Wednesday, October i6 th 
 
 After a Conference on Education in 
 the morning with the authorities of the 
 War Department we embarked on the 
 Admiralty yacht Sybil and left for Mount 
 Vernon. It was a perfect autumn afternoon 
 and the brilliancy of the fading autumn 
 leaves was reflected in the still waters of the 
 Potomac. Their colours were so blended 
 that we could only wonder at the beauty 
 of the scene, but our hosts were by no 
 means satisfied. They apologized for the 
 absence of certain red tints, this they at 
 tributed to a cold spell in September which 
 
*{ 40 }* 
 
 had caused the fading foliage to skip one 
 stage in its colour diminuendo. As has 
 been pointed out, " there s beauty in the 
 colour of decay, " but it was obvious that 
 there is more beauty if the decay be gradual 
 and not unduly hastened by cold spells. 
 
 As we came opposite to Washington s 
 house, the flag was lowered, a bell tolled 
 and the ship s bugler sounded the "Last 
 Post." A naval officer on the Sybil told 
 me that this touching tribute to a great 
 gentleman dated back to 1812 when the 
 British Admiral of a fleet sent to fight 
 Washington s countrymen, as his ships 
 passed Mount Vernon on their way up the 
 Potomac to shell the Federal Capital, gave 
 the order to salute the grave of the first 
 President with this usage, which has ever 
 after been followed. Well, sailors always 
 were gentlemen 1 . 
 
 The charm of the house, of the garden, 
 of the several views both inland and river- 
 
 1 Germans alone excepted. 
 
*{ 4 1 }* 
 
 wards was multiplied by the beauty of the 
 afternoon, and we left as sundown was 
 setting in, with buzzards circling over us 
 and a solitary blue heron standing on one 
 leg on a grassy islet near the landing-stage. 
 We dined that night with the Assistant 
 High Commissioner of our country and the 
 only speeches were two quite short ones to 
 explain there were to be no speeches. 
 
 Thursday, October 17* 
 
 To-day we lunched with the Presi 
 dent and Mrs Wilson. Both were extremely 
 cordial and friendly and did us the quite 
 unusual honour of granting us two hours 
 of their much occupied time. Later some 
 of us visited the Carnegie Institute and 
 tried to grasp the almost incredible variety 
 of its many activities and the quite in 
 credible number of dollars it administers. 
 
 Later in the day the Trustees of the 
 Carnegie Institute gave a banquet at the 
 
*{ 42 }* 
 
 Washington Hotel where we met a couple 
 of hundred of the most distinguished men 
 in Washington. Here the speeches reached 
 a climax, for they began with the melons. 
 I made an after-dinner speech before the 
 soup was served, and had to leave out 
 quite a lot of points. Whenever the band 
 paused for a moment some one made a 
 speech, and there were so many, and so 
 many of us lacked what the Railway folk 
 call "terminal facilities" that we had well- 
 nigh three hours of speeches. But it was 
 all so kindly and so friendly that it won 
 our hearts. 
 
 Friday, October i8 th 
 
 This morning we went to Baltimore, 
 and here perhaps we came across more 
 evidence of the terrible plague which this 
 autumn is decimating the land than we had 
 till now met with. Hitherto I have not 
 mentioned it, but even on the dock at New 
 
*{ 43 }* 
 
 
 York, the Head of the British Mission in 
 
 New York City had told us something of 
 the extent and virulence of the scourge, a 
 very fatal form of influenza followed in 
 many cases by a still more fatal form of 
 pneumonia. That very morning two of his 
 clerks had died. On one day there were 
 750 deaths from this plague in New York 
 City alone. The Secretary of State at 
 Washington had given me an appalling list 
 of the deaths amongst the families of the 
 Diplomatic Corps in Washington ; no Em 
 bassy, no Ministry, had escaped. 
 
 One saw in Washington folks walking 
 about the streets wearing white masks, some 
 thing like gas-masks. In the barbers shops 
 all the attendants wore masks, but the supply 
 of them was totally inadequate . The medical 
 and nursing profession, greatly depleted by 
 the war, practically broke down. At Balti 
 more, although no one spoke much about 
 it, we heard gruesome stories of a little girl 
 found shaking in a cupboard whither she had 
 
*{ 44 }* 
 
 fled after the death of both parents and all 
 her brothers and sisters ; of the bodies of a 
 man and his wife found alone in a house eight 
 days after their death. It was as it were living 
 through the pages of Daniel Defoe. The day 
 before we reached Baltimore 250, including 
 some of the more brilliant of the young Johns 
 Hopkins teachers, had died. At Philadelphia, 
 with a population of something under two 
 million, there had already been 250,000 
 cases. All theatres, churches, "movie-" 
 shows, and saloons were closed. No assem 
 blage of more than twenty-eight persons 
 was permitted. The undertakers and the 
 authorities at the cemeteries were unable to 
 deal with the dreadful conditions which 
 prevailed. Thousands of bodies lay un- 
 buried, and owing to the national feeling 
 about funerals the people would not adopt 
 the natural and hygienic expedient of 
 burying their dead in cloaks or in sheets. 
 An old friend of mine, Lady - , told 
 me at Washington that she had just buried 
 
*{ 45 }* 
 
 her nephew in Philadelphia and had to pay 
 40 for a coffin which took three days to 
 deliver. 
 
 So great was the need of help at the 
 necropolis at Philadelphia that the Admiral 
 in command of the shipbuilding yards at 
 Hog Island sent over two of his excavators 
 to dig two great common graves. After 
 some hours he was informed that there was 
 no one to direct his men where to dig or to 
 register the dead or indeed to do anything. 
 Although he made no charges, yet he found 
 some outside person was taking money. 
 He telephoned to the Archbishop in 
 America you telephone to anyone to say that 
 unless some one in authority took charge 
 within two hours he would recall his excava 
 tors, and somehow something was arranged. 
 
 In the State of Connecticut the "jail 
 birds" were requisitioned and detailed to 
 dig graves. The epidemic has been most 
 fatal in the military and the naval camps. 
 Already it has claimed a greater number of 
 
*{ 46 }* 
 
 victims in the army and the navy than the 
 total casualties in the war. 
 
 In spite of the grief and sorrow which we 
 could not but note in our hosts faces, they 
 received us with a brave front. Naturally, 
 we felt keenly that at a time of such national 
 woe we ought not to be intruding, but 
 perhaps after all we could do "no other " 
 and so they and we simply "carried on" 
 and talked on other matters. 
 
 At Baltimore we visited the new Univer 
 sity buildings of Johns Hopkins, new since 
 I had been there, a fine set of libraries and 
 laboratories built of a pleasant light red 
 brick with ample windows. There had 
 been the usual fight between the people 
 who were to use the buildings and the 
 architects. Here the Professors won, for 
 in Johns Hopkins the university rooms and 
 windows are large and let in floods of light. 
 
 We lunched at the Country Club beside 
 the Golf Course and made speeches. So 
 
*{ 47 I* 
 
 many speeches did we make that it was 
 4 P.M. before we rose to hurry off to an 
 interview which Cardinal Gibbons had 
 promised us. His Eminence was a refined 
 and kindly old gentleman, 84 years of age, 
 yet with strength and courage and truth in 
 his face, just the sort of saint to steady the 
 nerves and bring hope to the heart of a 
 sorely stricken and largely ignorant popula 
 tion. He told us that he was the youngest 
 prelate at the Vatican Council in 1870, and 
 that now he was the oldest Roman Catholic 
 bishop alive. He also told us that the cele 
 brations in honour of the Jubilee of his 
 election to the Bench, which were just due, 
 had been postponed owing to the pestilence, 
 and somehow he gave me the impression 
 that he was not altogether sorry. 
 
 The Boy visited the tomb of Edgar Allan 
 Poe in the heart of the city, and thought it 
 needed care. 
 
 We were "off to Philadelphia" in the 
 evening. 
 
*{ 48 }* 
 
 Saturday, October 19 th 
 
 Motored to the studio, in the Univer 
 sity, of Tait Mackenzie, whose sculptures 
 go from strength to strength. He is 
 modelling a group of men going over the 
 top, the finest war memorial I have yet 
 seen. Later we visited the University Art 
 Museum, full of beautiful things, beautifully 
 displayed. The Museum has a circular 
 auditorium of novel and stately proportions 
 and with perfect acoustic properties. We 
 lunched at Houston Hall with the faculty 
 and made innumerable speeches. One by 
 the Provost, a very charming Provost, con 
 tained some quite plain speaking about the 
 way the old Universities in Great Britain had 
 kept their doors shut to foreign students; 
 this and further criticism after dinner, when 
 we all spoke over again, has set us all 
 thinking. I had hoped that in a Quaker 
 City one would not speak unless the spirit 
 moved one, but the "attendant spirit" in 
 
*{ 49 }* 
 
 the form of the Provost was always with us 
 and was always moving us. 
 
 In the afternoon we motored to the 
 Quaker College of Swarthmore, a co 
 educational institution in which the educa 
 tion is by no means left out. As in other 
 places, the buildings were set on a hill, in 
 vast grounds, and equipped lavishly; for 
 instance there is a large open-air theatre, a 
 fine swimming bath and an observatory 
 with a 24 in. lens telescope, a finer instru 
 ment than exists in Ireland, as our astro 
 nomical member told us, and many other 
 features hard to find in a boys or girls 
 College in our country. 
 
 Sunday, October 20 th 
 
 Spent part of the morning at Tait 
 Mackenzie s studio in his charming home. 
 The Boy, who has for some days been 
 suffering from suppressed music, obtained 
 
*{ So }* 
 
 a certain temporary measure of relief at 
 their grand piano. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited some dear 
 old colonial churches in which Washington 
 worshipped and then, by way of contrast, 
 went to a great magnate s palace and saw 
 the finest private collection of pictures I 
 have ever seen. Rembrandt s "Mill," 
 recently bought from Lord Lansdowne, 
 hangs in the galleries. This is regarded by 
 Bode, who has lately, we are told, been 
 organizing the artistic looting of the invaded 
 countries, as the most perfect picture in the 
 world, but since he failed to distinguish a 
 Lucas from a Leonardo, or to acknowledge 
 his error when found out, his opinion on 
 artistic matters leaves us unmoved. 
 
 Some Italian pictures have, owing to a 
 certain law, a little difficulty in leaving their 
 country. One collector who had bought at 
 a considerable cost a genuine Old Master in 
 Rome got over this difficulty by having a 
 sea-scape lightly painted over it. On 
 
*{ 5 1 }* 
 
 reaching the West the collector sent it to 
 his picture-cleaner to have the sea-scape 
 removed, and after some months he wrote 
 to ask how this was getting on. The picture- 
 cleaner replied: u We have removed the 
 sea-scape and we have removed the Old 
 Master and what do you wish done with 
 6 The Coronation of William IV ? " 
 
 Monday, October 21 
 
 st 
 
 This morning the Admiral in command of 
 the shipbuilding yard at Hog Island took 
 us over it. Fifteen months ago students 
 from the University were botanizing on its 
 swampy sit. To-day there are some forty 
 ships in all stages of construction, seventy 
 miles of railway track in the yards, 30,000 
 workmen, who with their families are 
 housed in hundreds of dwellings which 
 have sprung from the sea-foam in the 
 course of a few months . There are numerous 
 
 42 
 
*{ 52 }* 
 
 hotels and clubs for the unmarried 
 hands. 
 
 Here we met a camouflager, who allowed, 
 as I had seen in New York, that much 
 more blue is used on their ships than on 
 ours. He also told us that the design was 
 by no means haphazard, but carefully 
 thought out and drawn on paper before 
 being adopted. Each ship had a model and 
 unless the camouflage succeeded in de 
 ceiving the enemy by a certain number of 
 points in the compass I suppose the 
 Censor won t let me say how many it was 
 rejected altogether or revised. 
 
 Later in the morning we motored to 
 Bryn Mawr which was as charming as ever. 
 Here we lunched and then went on to 
 Haverford, an old home of mine, which 
 like the Brown University at Providence, 
 R.I., and doubtless others, has rejected the 
 gilded unsectarianism of Mr Carnegie. 
 
 We dined at the Arts Club with the 
 Director of the Drexel Institution, who 
 
*{ S3 }* 
 
 had the happy idea of asking each of us 
 to talk about ourselves. Never have I heard 
 better speeches ! 
 
 Tuesday, October 22 nd 
 
 We had a quiet day at Princeton, a 
 really restful one. In the morning we 
 visited some of the numerous departments 
 turned into war work, especially those con 
 nected with aircraft, for Princeton has 
 specialized in this branch. After an informal 
 lunch with my host at my old Princeton 
 home, we had two hours to ourselves, a 
 great boon in these hurried days. Then we 
 attended a Review, the President taking the 
 salute, and afterwards a short formal meeting 
 in Nassau Hall with the Faculty. This was 
 a very dignified proceeding. The speeches 
 were short and to the point. 
 
 It was a memorable occasion. Fifty years 
 ago, to the day, President McCosh, whose 
 name you can still conjure with, took over the 
 
*{ 54 }* 
 
 guidance of what was then a much smaller 
 institution. Five years ago to the day I had 
 the honour of taking part in the open 
 ing exercises of Dean West s magnificent 
 Graduate College, now the home of the 
 Paymasters of the Fleet. But these anni 
 versaries are as nothing compared to the fact 
 that over the Hall in which we met the 
 British flag was floating where it had not 
 floated for 177 years! 
 
 Wednesday, October 23 rd 
 
 On passing through New York we 
 were entertained at a most sumptuous 
 banquet by the members of the Lotus 
 Club. Here we met many of the out 
 standing men of the City, in all branches 
 of literature, learning and commerce, and 
 here we heard the last of the many 
 Wilson notes. As so often happens, the 
 evening report was an exaggeration of what 
 the morrow was to bring forth. Much 
 
*{ 55 }* 
 
 eloquence, for the speeches with one ex 
 ception (and the speaker of this sat next me) 
 were long and many, dealt at length on the 
 term " unconditional " but that word was 
 lacking in the full report of the President s 
 Note in the newspapers next morning. 
 
 The third of the classical injunctions to 
 the after-dinner speaker " Get up, get on 
 and get down" is neglected in this country. 
 Never have I heard so many brilliant per 
 orations passed by especially by one of our 
 Mission and the first always seemed to me 
 the best. Nevertheless it was a most suc 
 cessful gathering and we left a little before 
 midnight much heartened by innumerable 
 expressions of good-will and much touched 
 by innumerable acts of kindness. 
 
 Thursday , October 24 th 
 
 Our visit to Yale was another restful 
 one. In the two laboratories I visited, the 
 pathological and the biological, I was im- 
 
*{ 56 }* 
 
 pressed both by the thoroughness and by 
 the originality of the researches being 
 carried on. Here, as at other American 
 universities, there is ample room and a 
 most cordial welcome awaiting the British 
 graduate who wishes to study on lines 
 hitherto hardly touched on in our Islands. 
 
 Friday, October 25* 
 
 The President of Yale had in the most 
 kindly fashion arranged a short conference 
 between the Faculty and the members of 
 the Commission ; this my colleagues tell me 
 was one of the most helpful meetings which 
 had as yet taken place ; unfortunately before 
 it was more than half-way through I more 
 or less collapsed. The incessant strain of 
 meeting hundreds of hospitable hosts each 
 day, the constant speeches and the eternal 
 lack of sleep had proved too much for 
 more than one of us. I retired to the hand 
 some library of the comfortable club which 
 
*{ 57 }* 
 
 put us up, a library where that blessed 
 word "SILENCE" is not only enjoined 
 but exercised, and fell asleep in an arm 
 chair. On waking I decided, to my great 
 regret, to omit Amherst, Smith and other 
 Colleges, and go straight to Boston. Here 
 I took refuge with an old Cambridge friend 
 in the quietest of hotels inhabited by great 
 numbers of dear old mid-Victorian ladies 
 whose age justifies the proud boast of the 
 proprietor that no one ever dies in his 
 hotel. On arrival I went to bed. 
 
 Saturday, October 2 6 th 
 
 Slept. 
 
 Sunday, October 27* 
 
 Slept most of the morning and in 
 the afternoon went out to the hospitable 
 house of the President of Harvard. On the 
 
*{ 58 }* 
 
 way our most kindly guide and his wife 
 drove us out to Concord through autumn- 
 tinted roads and country lanes. We saw the 
 homes of Hawthorne and Emerson. It was 
 interesting to learn that the son of the latter, 
 Dr Edward Emerson, was still living in his 
 father s village, just as it is to know that 
 Longfellow s daughter is still living in her 
 father s stately house in Cambridge just 
 around the corner from President Lowell s 
 house. We saw the virile statue by a 
 Concord sculptor of the young farmer who 
 fired the first shot in the War of Rebellion 
 standing at the foot of the bridge inscribed 
 with these lines : 
 
 By the rude bridge that arched the flood 
 Their flag to April s breeze unfurled 
 Here once the embattled farmers stood 
 And fired the shot heard round the world. 
 
 April iQth, 1775. 
 
 We also saw on what was once the battle 
 field of Concord a touching tribute to our 
 soldiers : 
 
*{ 59 }* 
 
 They came three thousand miles and died, 
 To keep the past upon its throne 
 Unheard beyond the ocean tide 
 Their English Mother made her moan. 
 
 April iQth, 1775. 
 
 On the way home we stopped at the 
 old cemetery at Sleepy Hollow where in 
 ideal setting Emerson and Hawthorne and 
 Thoreau lie. The sun was setting, a light 
 autumn mist veiled all sharp outlines ; it was 
 four-thirty on a Sunday afternoon, a time 
 when one s vitality is at its lowest, a time 
 when at home I always read Thomson s 
 City of Dreadful Night. I felt at peace with 
 the world and in complete harmony with 
 tombs. 
 
 Monday, October 2 8 th 
 
 Early in the morning we visited 
 Tufts College, pleasantly set on a hill. At 
 ii A.M. I lectured to some 700 Harvard 
 students in khaki and naval kit on some of 
 
* { 60 } * 
 
 the inconveniences they may meet at the 
 front. Nobody coughed! 
 
 The great crowds of splendid youths we 
 meet everywhere seem almost overwhelm 
 ing, full of fun, working hard and deadly 
 in earnest. At least half of them every 
 where are in sailor s uniform and are 
 apparently in training for commissions, 
 though how such thousands are to find 
 ships is difficult to imagine. Of course, 
 many of them are specializing in such 
 subjects as sea-planes, wireless, etc. 
 
 Tuesday, October 29* 
 
 This morning we visited Boston 
 College, a Jesuit College, which grants 
 degrees. As usual the buildings are placed 
 on a hill commanding beautiful views of 
 river, lake, mountain and city, the outline 
 of the last-named tempered by distance. 
 All this we saw from a roof-garden. On 
 descending in the elevator I noticed with 
 
*{ 6i }* 
 
 envy that it was fitted with a mechanism, 
 which, if Mr Edison could but fit it on all 
 politicians, orators and after-dinner speakers, 
 would save an immense amount of time and 
 enable us to get on with the war. The 
 mechanism enables the lift to record : " This 
 elevator automatically closes itself within 
 
 / 
 
 30 seconds." 
 
 The chapel, and indeed all the buildings, 
 were stately, well proportioned and satis 
 fying to the eye. The inside decorations 
 were exceptionally beautiful and some of 
 the more artistic and restful were the work 
 of one of the Fathers. An elderly priest 
 seemed to take an especial and solicitous 
 interest in me, and after a time he confided 
 in me that though he had met many Oxford 
 men I was the first Cambridge man he had 
 ever seen. He watched over me as if I was 
 an unique specimen and before we left 
 gave me to understand that this singular 
 experience had greatly widened his outlook 
 on life. 
 
*{ 62 }* 
 
 On the way home I was pleased to find 
 that the President was using and had used 
 for years the Cambridge Pocket Diary. As 
 the originator, and for some years the author, 
 of that modest tome I felt a certain degree 
 of pride. 
 
 We lunched with the President of " Tech " 
 and his wife in the magnificent new buildings 
 which have been put up on the Cambridge 
 side of the Charles River since I was last 
 in Boston. 
 
 During the afternoon we met the Harvard 
 Faculty in their Hall and had many helpful 
 talks. 
 
 After dinner we went into Boston to a 
 reception at the new home of the American 
 Academy of Science. Here again I met many 
 old friends. One, a world- wide authority 
 on Brachiopods and Japanese art, who had 
 been very good to me over thirty years ago 
 when first I came to Boston, had travelled 
 sixty miles to see me again. The crowd, 
 however, was so great and the noise we 
 
*{ 6 3 }* 
 
 made was so loud we could converse but 
 little. One felt in sympathy with the old 
 lady who said "How can one converse if 
 people will talk?" However, I was lucky 
 enough to meet several zoologists and we 
 got away into a quiet corner and talked 
 shop. 
 
 Wednesday, October 30* 
 
 Yesterday it was 80 degrees in the 
 shade and at 8 A.M. this morning it was 
 already 70 degrees. The heat is indeed 
 overwhelming. We are assured it is un 
 usual, but except in the Tropics the weather 
 seems to me to be always and everywhere 
 unusual. 
 
 The wife of our host took us to see 
 "The House of the Seven Gables" at 
 Salem. This is a delightful place and is 
 maintained with the same pious and thought 
 ful care as is Mount Vernon. The whole 
 arrangement recalled the merchants houses 
 
*{ 64 }* 
 
 at King s Lynn, for behind the house is 
 a garden running down to the water s edge 
 where the schooners used to anchor, and in 
 the garden is a counting-house. 
 
 The headlines of the newspapers are as 
 large as ever but not so quaintly phrased. 
 However, I have just come across an old 
 copy of a southern journal which records 
 the capture of Nazareth in the following 
 words : 
 
 "British capture Christ s Home Town." 
 
 Another one which heralded an interview 
 with one of our Mission was : 
 
 "DISHPAN loses lure for female sex 
 in England, says prominent British 
 Woman Educator." 
 
 
 
 We left in the evening for Montreal, 
 travelling luxuriously in a private car which 
 had been kindly placed at our service by the 
 Dominion Government. 
 
st 
 
 *{ 65 }* 
 
 Thursday, October 31 
 
 All Hallowe en. 
 
 At Montreal we were received by the 
 President and Faculty of McGill University 
 in their spacious Library. Here we were 
 shewn their admirable system of card- 
 cataloguing, and the rapidity with which a 
 book asked for can be placed in the asker s 
 hands. One feature that struck us greatly 
 was their circulating library. Hundreds of 
 books are sent to country villages in batches 
 of a dozen or so, and are sent back after a 
 certain fixed period. It recalled the same 
 sort of distribution that exists in our Local 
 Lectures organizations in England, but it is 
 carried out on a greater scale. Canada does 
 everything she can to help the farmers and 
 their women-folk in far away districts , and the 
 Post-Office carries for them, free of charge, 
 any weekly newspaper they care to order. 
 
 McGill University, though sadly de 
 pleted by the absence of a very large 
 
*{ 66 }* 
 
 percentage of its members at the war, was 
 still keeping the flag of learning flying. We 
 lunched with the President of the University 
 and his wife, and met many of the leading 
 Professors. Nothing could have been kinder 
 than our reception. It is thirty-two years 
 ago since I first visited this great Canadian 
 University, and the changes and improve 
 ments that have been effected in that time 
 are truly remarkable. 
 
 Later in the day we visited the Town 
 Fine Art Museums and some private 
 collections. A former pupil of mine is 
 doing a great work in Montreal in getting 
 together and admirably setting out great 
 and varied collections of artistic objects. 
 Like so many students of the biological 
 sciences he has a real feeling for colour, 
 form and design. 
 
 We dined with the Governors of McGill 
 University at the University Club. We 
 made speeches and enjoyed short talks with 
 many old friends. 
 
*{ 6 7 }* 
 
 Friday, November I st 
 
 All Saints Day. 
 
 In the morning some of us visited the 
 MacDonald College of Agriculture near 
 St Anne s, a very efficient and as usual 
 most beautifully equipped institution. In 
 the afternoon we went to three of the 
 buildings amongst the dozen which , scattered 
 about in the City and French quarter of 
 the City, constitute the Montreal and 
 Roman Catholic University of Laval. A 
 second half of this great institution is in 
 Quebec and just at present there is a move 
 ment on foot to separate one from the other. 
 We saw the Schools of Commerce, of 
 Veterinary Science, and of Dentistry. The 
 students of the last two Schools have proved 
 invaluable in France, and have taken a very- 
 full and most helpful share at the Front. 
 
 At Laval the lectures are in French and 
 it is primarily, though not exclusively, the 
 University of the French Canadian. McGill 
 
*{ 68 }* 
 
 students attend some of the Laval Courses, 
 especially Law Courses. 
 
 In the evening the Boy and I dined with 
 one or two of the big men in Montreal and 
 listened to some very lively comments as 
 to the men in the Dominions the British 
 Government " delighted to honour/ I 
 tried to assure them that the Dominion did 
 not suffer alone. 
 
 Saturday, November 2 nd 
 
 We left early for Ottawa, arriving at 
 that " proud city of the Waters" soon after 
 noon. The Governor- General gave us 
 lunch at the new and magnificent Chateau 
 Laurier Hotel and here we met the Premier, 
 upon whom I had conferred the honorary 
 degree of LL.D. less than five months ago. 
 Laurier and many of the present Cabinet 
 Ministers were there but there were few 
 speeches. 
 
 I spent some time at the headquarters 
 
*{ 6 9 }* 
 
 of the Entomological Branch of the De 
 partment of Agriculture. With its twelve 
 accessory laboratories scattered throughout 
 Canada it is doing great work second to 
 none in or out of Canada. We had tea 
 with the Duke and Duchess at Rideau 
 Hall, dinner at the Golf Club where Bishop, 
 the Canadian "ace," was also dining, a 
 truly marvellous airman who has brought 
 down fifty Huns. 
 
 Sunday, November 3 rd 
 
 Reached Toronto quite early in the 
 morning after a somewhat chequered night. 
 I spent most of the day with the mothers 
 and friends of some of the Canadian 
 officers who had stayed during the last four 
 years at my Lodge. 
 
 We had tea at the house of one of the 
 leading financial authorities of the country 
 who is however more proud of the beauty 
 of his Bank s banknotes than of his out- 
 
*{ ?o }* 
 
 standing business ability. He thinks they 
 will live and certainly they ought to. To 
 most folk the beauty of a banknote is in 
 direct proportion to the dominant cypher 
 and they seldom look beyond this, yet they 
 should dwell on the charm of the portrait 
 of Martha Washington on some of the U.S. 
 issues. 
 
 Monday, November 4 th 
 
 This was really a great day for us. 
 We saw something of the magnificent 
 buildings of the university with their 
 complete equipment in every department. 
 We had a helpful talk with the Faculty 
 and learned much about the largest and 
 wealthiest of the great Canadian Uni 
 versities. Toronto is co-educational. They 
 have the most absolute and the fullest 
 equality of the sexes and the women have 
 the front seats in the lecture rooms. 
 
 As I have written we really had a great 
 
*{ 7 1 I* 
 
 day: most of us managed to get in four 
 speeches. 
 
 (i) In the morning we addressed the 
 Faculty on the objects and aims of the 
 Mission; here as indeed everywhere we 
 were welcomed and made to feel welcome. 
 
 (ii) A little after noon we lunched with 
 several hundred of the leading business 
 men at the Empire Club, and here an un 
 fortunate thing happened. In my speech 
 I described how one of the less informed 
 of our Labour Members had reproached 
 the older Universities for neglecting to 
 teach what he called "the newer subjects," 
 such as Textile-Fabrics, Brewing and 
 Dyeing. In replying to him I had pointed 
 out that these subjects were by no means 
 new, that textile-fabrics had begun to come 
 into use in the Garden of Eden, that the 
 processes of fermentation were understood 
 by Noah, and that dyeing was one of the 
 most ancient of arts. In reporting this 
 part of my speech the newspapers made me 
 
*{ 72 }* 
 
 say that " dying was one of the oldest of 
 human industries." I was sorry for this, as 
 though the undertakers seemed pleased I 
 fear the local clergy thought me flippant. 
 
 (iii) Immediately after lunch we were 
 received by the Mayor and made speeches 
 to the Corporation. The Mayor was kind 
 ness itself, and showered us with gifts, 
 culminating in lovely silken Canadian flags. 
 
 (iv) We dined at a charming club as the 
 guests of the University. I sat between the 
 Governor and the Premier of the Province, 
 and here we were delighted by meeting 
 again the unveiler of the recently erected 
 statue to Lincoln at Springfield, 111. We 
 all made speeches. 
 
 The food conditions in Canada are to a 
 visitor from the other side of the Atlantic 
 overwhelming. They are the same in the 
 United States. The people of North 
 America have made great and, for the most 
 part, voluntary sacrifices to solve the food 
 problem in Europe, and they have solved 
 
*{ 73 }* 
 
 it. Much more would they send could they 
 get it across. Still much remains behind. 
 At the numerous hospitable dinners and 
 banquets we had eaten the fare was both 
 ample and excellent, but the excess of a 
 City Dinner was mercifully and properly 
 absent. At the hotels things were on a 
 different basis. At Toronto we were housed 
 in a thoroughly comfortable house, not one 
 of those gilded palaces one finds in New 
 York, but one which provided everything 
 we could want, and here is a list of the 
 things we could eat : 
 
 Blue Point Oysters, Malapeque Oysters 45 \ Cocktail 50; 
 Cotuit Oysters 50, Bread and Butter 10. 
 
 Crabflakes Cocktail 60, Shrimps Cocktail 60, Lobster Cock 
 tail 75, Oyster Stew 30, with cream 40. 
 
 HORS D CEUVRE: Romanoff Caviar on Ice 1.25, Grape 
 Fruit 30, Celery 35, Salted Almonds 30, Chow Chow 30, 
 Bengal Chutney 30, Dill Pickles 20, French Sardines 
 in oil 50, Olives 30, Stuffed Celery 50, Chili Sauce 10, 
 Chutney 15, Grape Fruit Supreme 60, Anchovies in 
 Oil 60. 
 
 SOUP: Consomme Japonais 30, Creme of Chicken 35, Potage 
 Milanais 30, Hot or cold Consomme", clear 30, 
 
 1 The figures indicate cents. 
 
*{ 74 }* 
 
 garnished 35, Chicken Broth clear 30, with chicken and 
 rice 35, Celery Broth 30, Clam Broth 30, Mock Turtle 35, 
 Pure"e of Split Pea 30, Mongole Soup 30, Onion Soup 
 au Gratin 35, Onion Soup in cream 33. 
 All strained soups in cups. 
 
 FISH : Boiled Fresh Codfish, egg sauce 70, Lobster and 
 Finnan Haddie Newbourg 90, Boiled Jumbo Whitefish 
 hoteliere 70, Fried Green Smelts with bacon, tartare 70, 
 (15 Minutes), Planked Whitefish with cucumbers 75^ 
 Cold Lobster mayonnaise 80-1.50. 
 
 SPECIALS : Lamb Chops saute champvallon 85, Breaded 
 milk-fed Chicken Maryland 1.25, Braised Premium 
 Ham mashed Sweet Potatoes 90, Boiled Lamb Steak 
 Foyot 1. 15, Calf head en Tortue 80, Cold Sliced Capon 
 and Tongue Asparagus Tips i.oo, Omelette Celestine 65. 
 
 ROASTS: Roast Lamb Mint Sauce 85, Roast Turkey 
 Cranberry Sauce i.io, Roast Ribs of Beef au Jus 75. 
 
 VEGETABLES: Cauliflower Mousseline 35, Potato Mar 
 quis 30, New Bermuda Potato in cream 30, Boiled 15, 
 Baked Potato 25, Mashed Potatoes 20, Creamed 
 Potatoes 30, Beets in butter 30, Succotash 30, Stewed 
 Tomatoes 35, French fried 25, California asparagus 35. 
 
 COLD CUTS: Roast Lamb 80, Chicken (Half) i.oo, Sliced 
 Capon argentine 90, Lamb tongue 60, Beef tongue 70 
 Sliced Turkey 90. 
 
 SALADS: Shrimp 80, Tomatoes 35, Lobster i.oo, Fruit 60, 
 Chicken 60, Hearts of Lettuce 35, Lettuce and 
 Tomato 40, Cucumber 35, Watercress 30, Russian 
 dressing 15, Mayonnaise dressing 15, Roquefort 
 dressing 30. 
 
 ICE CREAM AND ICES : Strawberry Ice Cream 30, Orange 
 
*{ 75 }* 
 
 Water Ice 25, Neapolitaine 35, Chocolat Parfait 35, 
 Coffee Ice Cream 30, Vanilla 30, Chocolate 30, Caf6 
 Parfait 35, Lemon Water Ice 35. 
 
 FRUITS AND PRESERVES : Honey Dew Melon 35, Grape 
 Fruit 30, Banana 15, Assorted Fruits 50, Red Currant 
 J ell y 35. Bar-le-Duc 40, Canton Ginger 30, Orange 30. 
 
 CHEESE: Richelieu 20, McLaren s imperial 20, Neuf- 
 chatel 20, Canadian 20, Camembert 30, Roquefort 40, 
 Swiss 30, Ingersoll cream 20. 
 
 COFFEE : Coffee with cream, small pot for one 20, large 
 pot 40, Demi-Tasse 10, with cream 15, Ice Coffee 20, 
 Cocoa, Chocolate 25, Ice Tea with cream 20, Horlick s 
 Malted Milk 20, Milk per bottle 10. 
 
 I I- I MI- II- I 1- 
 
 Dishes not on menu will be served by request. 
 I I- II- II- II- II- 
 
 "All persons in ordering food ought to consider the needs of 
 Great Britain and the Allies for wheat, beef, bacon and 
 food, and that the Canada Food Board desires the 
 public to do everything in their power to make these 
 commodities available for export by eating as little as 
 possible of them, and by making use of substitutes and 
 avoiding waste." 
 
 Tuesday, November 5 th 
 
 We went to bed this morning before 
 i A.M. and got up at 6.30 to start for 
 Niagara. We had, as ever, perfect weather 
 
*{ 76 }* 
 
 and many picturesque views of streams, 
 lakes, and woods. Hitherto I have always 
 visited Niagara from the American side and 
 this is, I think, the better way. Coming 
 first to the Canadian side the views are less 
 impressive. 
 
 The falls are much as they were and do 
 not seem to have changed in the last two- 
 and-thirty years. The Victoria Park on the 
 Canadian side, the park on the American 
 side and on Goat Island and the new hotels 
 have, however, vastly improved the amenity 
 of the " section. " On the other hand, the 
 factories, power houses, etc., which dese 
 crate the cliffs between the Falls and the 
 Rapids, grow in number and in horror. 
 
 We left in the late afternoon for Windsor 
 and here we had to leave our Canadian 
 private car. Those of us, however, who had 
 comfortable beds could not tear ourselves 
 from the Canadian soil and remained in the 
 car. The rest of us continued in the train 
 which embarked on a ferry, the ferry 
 
*{ 77 }* 
 
 crossed the Detroit River and at 2 A.M. we 
 were at rest in one of the most comfortable 
 of the many comfortable hotels we lodged 
 at during our tour. 
 
 Wednesday, November 6 th 
 
 Some of our party got up early and 
 visited Mr Ford s works. I did not. After 
 all, they did not see the works, but heard 
 quite a lot about them from one of the 
 chief managers. The works are on a large 
 scale and the workmen receive a minimum 
 of i a day. In addition to this their 
 morals are carefully scrutinized. A woman 
 cannot give her husband a black eye with 
 out Mr Ford being phoned up, and he at 
 once adjusts the domestic difference. The 
 number of workmen is about 50,000 and 
 the daily pay-bill amounts to at least 
 50,000. 
 
 Mr Ford is now out to win the war and 
 
*{ 78 }* 
 
 has quite voluntarily and unostentatiously 
 cut down his own income to what must be 
 an almost starvation rate for a multi 
 millionaire ; I forget to how many hundred 
 thousand pounds he reduced his annual 
 income. 
 
 Mid-day we left for Ann Arbor and here 
 we spent a delightful four-and- twenty hours. 
 One of the most inspiring sights we had seen 
 was the march past of some two or three 
 thousand students in khaki and in sailors kit. 
 They were simply splendid as they moved to 
 the tune of the Michigan march familiar to 
 our ears through Sousa s Band. Ann Arbor 
 is the oldest and most renowned of the 
 State Universities in the Middle West, and 
 it was with peculiar pleasure and pride that 
 we received at the hands of the genial 
 and friendly President the distinction of 
 Honorary Degrees. The ceremony was 
 simple and very dignified. We were each 
 presented in short, but graceful, speeches 
 by the Professor of Philosophy spoken in 
 
*{ 79 }* 
 
 English. Latin would have saved many of 
 our blushes. 
 
 I was interested to learn that the 
 University employs five " whole-time" 
 doctors to look after the health of the 
 students. For the payment of $5 a year 
 each student receives free medical attend 
 ance, free medicine and free treatment at 
 one of the University hospitals. Ann Arbor 
 has a very large medical school. 
 
 Thursday, November 7* 
 
 We are living altogether too fast and 
 I doubt whether we can stand the strain, 
 so many things happen and all at once. 
 The barber told me this morning that Ohio 
 had gone wet or dry, I forget which, but 
 as we go all round, but not into, Ohio 
 it does not much matter. These constant 
 and sudden changes in the humidity of large 
 tracts of land must of course affect the 
 conditions of a large section of the popula- 
 
*{ 8o }* 
 
 tion, but in what way is a matter of dispute. 
 Russia went dry about three years ago, but 
 the Muscovite millennium still tarries. 
 
 Then they say Mr Ford is not elected 
 Senator; yet he had a lot in his favour- 
 unlimited and moral workmen, innumerable 
 motor-cars, and he is, they tell me, a re 
 publican on a democratic ticket ; " carrying 
 water on both shoulders," as they say here. 
 In our country such arguments would have 
 proved irresistible. 
 
 A son has been born to the chauffeur of 
 our host. He is radiant and quite unrespon 
 sive to talks of armistice. To him, if he 
 clearly understands what it is, an armistice 
 seems a long way off and very intangible, 
 whilst he can see and hear, and if his wife 
 will let him, touch his little babe. 
 
 Then as a climax, " Peace " was declared 
 at about 1.30 P.M. Ann Arbor is a small 
 place and took the news calmly. The corner 
 boy, almost an extinct mammal, continued to 
 decorate his corner undismayed , But it was 
 
*{ 8i }* 
 
 otherwise on the train. Passengers from 
 Detroit told us that all work had ceased, all 
 the factories had emptied, all the whistles 
 and hooters were whistling and hooting, and 
 all the flags were flying. The news seemed so 
 overwhelming that it interfered with reason. 
 Of course, Peace couldn t and didn t come 
 like this, but the only one on the train who 
 showed a reasonable appreciation of events 
 was the elderly conductor who said to me 
 in an inimitable drawl: "Yes, sir, we re 
 celebrating the news of Peace on every 
 section of this line, but it ain t confirmed" 
 At Kalamazoo we were joined by three 
 beautifully dressed ladies. On hearing the 
 news they had hurried into their most 
 splendid creations and their most ravishing 
 toques and were on their way to join in 
 the peace celebration in Chicago, which 
 they opined would be on a great scale. 
 When some kindly Professors boarded the 
 train and told us that the news was, to say 
 the least, premature, we gently broke it to 
 
*{ 82 }* 
 
 the ladies. They showed no disappointment 
 and little surprise, indeed they laughed 
 merrily. So great is the moral effect of 
 really beautiful clothes and so sustaining is 
 the consciousness of being the best dressed 
 women in the crowd! It affords a striking 
 example of the triumph of matter over mind. 
 The kindness of our hosts and to us the 
 whole nation seem to be our hosts is in 
 exhaustible. Everywhere we go we are 
 expected and helped through. The very 
 custom s houses open their doors for us and 
 the Revenue officers won t even glance at 
 our luggage. The railway authorities had 
 sent to our train to help us on our way to 
 Chicago a very able and really interesting 
 young official who was courtesy itself. He 
 told us that but a few years ago he had been 
 in an orchestra where he played the drum. I 
 am fortunately immune to music, but it sticks 
 in my mind that Dan Godfrey once told me 
 that he who plays the drum must have a 
 great sense for, and appreciation of, " time." 
 
*{ 8 3 }* 
 
 This quality may account for the rapid 
 career of our friend in the Railway World. 
 I hope he will in time rise to be President 
 of the Line. I am sure he would be a good 
 one. 
 
 We arrived in Chicago in a deluge of 
 rain and saw what remained of the celebra 
 tion. We were soon housed in the luxurious 
 and comfortable University Club and "so 
 to bed." 
 
 Friday, November 8 th 
 
 We spent to-day at the University of 
 Chicago. This is one of the youngest, one 
 of the most original of the United States 
 Universities. Youth accounts for much of 
 this originality, President Harper he was 
 President of Chicago when first I visited 
 it accounted for more. Youth is also 
 responsible for the fact that though at other 
 centres there may be single edifices more 
 stately and more beautiful than any at 
 
 62 
 
*{ 84 }* 
 
 Chicago, it is, as regards its buildings, one 
 of the most complete and most uniform of 
 all American Universities. Like the Unities 
 of the Drama, as expounded by Mr Curdle 
 to Nicholas Nickleby, it combines "a com 
 pleteness a kind of universal dovetailed- 
 ness with regard to place and time a sort of 
 general oneness, if I may be allowed to use 
 so strong an expression." 
 
 The President of the University is away 
 in Persia and it is interesting to note that 
 en route he went chasing all the way from 
 London up to Scapa Flow to ask the 
 Admiral of the Grand Fleet and his 
 wife, nee Marshall Field, to sign a legal 
 document empowering the University to 
 purchase a small alley-way which some 
 how stood in the way of the extension of the 
 already ample University campus. In his 
 absence we were hospitably entertained by 
 his wife and the acting President. 
 
 We had a helpful conference during the 
 afternoon with the Faculty in the Ida Noyes 
 
*{ 5 }* 
 
 Building, the home of the lady students, 
 but it is not fair to expect a lot of new 
 comers to confer in a room decorated, as 
 this was, with the most charming of 
 modern frescoes. We couldn t help looking 
 at all the graceful and gorgeous young 
 creatures depicted in them and we were, 
 I fear, more interested in them than in the 
 exchange of Professors and Students. Why 
 can t we exchange frescoes? Later we 
 dined in the Hall of the same institution and 
 all made speeches. 
 
 Saturday, November p th 
 
 To-day we journeyed through the 
 corn-fields and over the coal-fields to 
 Champagne-Urbana to visit the great Illi 
 nois State University one of the biggest 
 and most rapidly growing of these institu 
 tions under State control . Stretching through 
 some forty-six of the forty- eight States, 
 with an aggregate of 175,000 students, these 
 
*{ 86 }* 
 
 State-aided Institutions are a power in the 
 land. Their trustees are nominated by the 
 Governor or the Mayor or are elected at 
 the same time and by the same electoral 
 body as the State legislature, and so little do 
 they fear the interference of the politician 
 that the President of one of the best-known 
 of them said to us "they would feel kind 
 of lonesome without it." After visiting the 
 well-known horticultural branch of the 
 University we were welcomed by addresses 
 and other recitations, and tried to make suit 
 able replies to some two or three thousand 
 students and professors from a back-ground 
 of four fair ladies representing respectively 
 the United States, Illinois, Great Britain 
 and Canada. In the evening we returned to 
 Chicago. 
 
 Whilst we were away the Boy had been 
 to a football match between Michigan and 
 Chicago Michigan won and came back 
 full of College yells. 
 
*{ 8 7 }* 
 
 Sunday, November io th 
 
 We went a long drive along the 
 North Shore and then visited the Academy 
 of Fine Art. Amongst many priceless pos 
 sessions is a whole room filled with Monets ! 
 
 Monday, November ii th 
 
 "Peace hath murdered Sleep." 
 Hardly had we dozed off than we were 
 awakened at 2 A.M. by a most infernal din. 
 "Peace," as they will call an armistice, 
 seemed to have been declared again. We 
 were naturally sceptical, but being sceptical 
 in bed whilst a million and a half were 
 credulous outside doesn t bring sleep. 
 
 The noise was overwhelming. All that 
 night and all next day and most of the next 
 night the hooters hooted, the whistles 
 whistled, the syrens syrened, brass utensils 
 brayed, tin-trumpets trumpetted, the people 
 
*{ 88 }* 
 
 yelled, the motors rushed about with tin- 
 can accompaniments, boys banged bones, 
 grown-up men frantically beat iron telegraph 
 posts with crow-bars; every conceivable 
 instrument was beaten, brayed or blown, but 
 the hooters were the worst. They seemed 
 to have an uncanny quality about them and 
 as they moaned and boomed and shrieked 
 they seemed to come into your room and 
 you felt as though you could touch them. 
 The parading people were excited, but good- 
 natured and friendly. An elderly divine 
 who took part in these nocturnal celebra 
 tions told us next morning that quite 
 respectable ladies had put feathers down 
 his neck; he added that after a time "one 
 got quite used to it." 
 
 In the morning this noise increased. 
 Thousands of lorries and motors pervaded 
 the city packed with children and women, 
 the latter by now beginning to look like 
 Sisters of Mercy after a bump-supper. A 
 peculiar manifestation of the enthusiasm of 
 
*{ 89 }* 
 
 the people was the casting forth from every 
 window innumerable scraps of paper I 
 believe the Telephone Directories suffered 
 most which blackened the skies and 
 whitened the ground. It cost the City of 
 New York $85,000 to clear up their paper 
 litter after their dress-rehearsal last Thurs 
 day! 
 
 To-day we visited the North Western 
 University. Like many others, it has certain 
 of its Departments in the City, such as the 
 Medical, the Commercial, the Dental, and 
 the Legal. We had time only to visit the 
 last two and found them well equipped and 
 well staffed. There is even in the last- 
 named a replica of a Law Court, and here 
 the students try cases. I don t know 
 whether I am more afraid of dentists or of 
 lawyers ; I suppose one is a physical and the 
 other a moral fear, but I was glad to find 
 myself on the way to Evanston, some twelve 
 miles north of Chicago, where the main 
 buildings of the North Western State 
 
*{ 90 }* 
 
 University are situate. Our progress was 
 impeded by parades ; all the schools, all the 
 organized Societies paraded and all made 
 as much noise as they could. Finally, 
 however, we arrived at the Campus, beauti 
 fully placed on the shores of the lake. We 
 found here the same freshness of view, and 
 belief in the future, the same numerous 
 staff and adequate equipment that we had 
 found elsewhere; but there seems always 
 some novel and original feature in each 
 new institution we visit, and at the North 
 Western University we found a large 
 building entirely devoted to Oratory. Any 
 future Mission to this country, before em 
 barking on its career of speeches, might 
 well take a short course of Oratory at 
 Evanston. After a comforting lunch at the 
 charming University Club, which was some 
 what prolonged by all of us making speeches, 
 we returned to Chicago. 
 
 We dined this evening with the Associa 
 tion of the Presidents of State Universities. 
 
*{ 9i }* 
 
 I was so tired that, like the late Lord 
 Hartington, I nearly fell asleep during my 
 own speech and I could not help dozing 
 off again and again during those of my 
 colleagues. Each time I lost consciousness 
 I had a strange nightmare and it recurred 
 again and again. I dreamed that I had 
 heard it all before. 
 
 Tuesday, November n th 
 
 It is difficult to recount the pro 
 ceedings of last night, so I take refuge in an 
 excerpt from the sober columns of the 
 Tribune : 
 
 Delirium and license disputed the rule 
 of Chicago s streets last night. The mad 
 revel of the day approached an orgy last 
 night. 
 
 The wild celebration that had raged 
 since the darkness of the early morning 
 hours of Monday ended in hysteria in 
 
*{ 92 }* 
 
 the early morning hours of Tuesday. 
 Before midnight good natured rowdyism 
 had become general 1 . 
 
 The members of the University Club 
 where we were lodged, whose hospitality is 
 boundless, gave us a sumptuous lunch in 
 their great dining-room which is a replica 
 of Crosby Hall seen under a magnifying 
 lens. The speeches were few, but good. 
 
 In the afternoon we attended a meeting 
 of the Presidents of State Universities and 
 amongst other good things heard a masterly 
 and witty address from the President of 
 Berkeley University. 
 
 Wednesday, November 1 3 th 
 
 We left before eight in the morning 
 for Madison which is the capital of Wiscon 
 sin and the seat of one of the best-known and 
 most celebrated of the State Universities of 
 
 1 Chicago Daily Tribune , 12. xi. 18. 
 
*{ 93 }* 
 
 the middle west. The University is set on a 
 hill and a mile to the north on another hill 
 the world-famed Capitol is set. The latter is 
 built of a white granite, resembling marble. 
 "The white Vermont (?) Marble used at 
 Washington and elsewhere is a granite of 
 medium grain; the constituents of which 
 are normal in so far that they are quartz, 
 mica and felspar. Generally, one or more 
 of these constituents (most often the mica) 
 are coloured in this case all are colourless : 
 the mica being quite colourless probably 
 muscovite." The building is cruciform and 
 crowned by a dome as noble as that of 
 St Paul s would be if the latter were 
 cleaned; it is also a trifle higher. 
 
 Many of the professors hold executive 
 positions under the Government and this 
 happy combination of knowledge with 
 statecraft seems to promote the welfare 
 both of the commonwealth and of the 
 University. 
 
 The weather was perfect, the sun blazing 
 
*{ 94 }* 
 
 hot and the air as crisp as Switzerland s. 
 We went an enchanting drive along the 
 shores of the two lakes, Mendota and 
 Monona, which flank the two hills; their 
 waters are as blue as those of the Grotto 
 at Capri. We then attended a conference, 
 important and heartening, but it hindered 
 me from seeing all but the tail of a most 
 brilliant sunset. The Boy saw it all and 
 I was jealous. 
 
 We had a banquet with speeches in the 
 evening in the spacious dining-room of the 
 Madison Club where we are being housed. 
 It is a delightful home and never have any 
 of us revelled so much in perfect quiet 
 and perfect views. 
 
 Thursday, November 14 th 
 
 The Boy and I visited a few of the 
 many Departments of the University, the 
 Zoological, Botanical and Geological Labora 
 tories, and those of the Institutes of Plant 
 
*{ 95 }* 
 
 Physiology and Plant Pathology. At Madi 
 son I saw the results of certain experiments 
 which seemed to prove the inheritance of 
 acquired characters, so often doubted. The 
 experiments are not completed and, of 
 course, there may be some flaw in the 
 deductions, but to me they seemed con 
 clusive, at any rate for the four generations 
 which up till now form the basis of the 
 experiment. After a delightful lunch at the 
 Club we visited some of the many Depart 
 ments of the College of Agriculture. After 
 dining with the President of the University, 
 we left for Minneapolis. 
 
 They do not pay in this country or in 
 any other their Professors or their Uni 
 versity Presidents enough. Perhaps it is 
 because there are so many of them. At 
 Universities not perceptibly larger than 
 Cambridge the teaching staff is bigger than 
 our whole Electoral Roll. The stipends of 
 the teachers are as low as, in some cases even 
 lower than, in Great Britain, and yet in 
 
*{ 96 }* 
 
 normal times the expense of living is higher. 
 Well it is the old, old story: " The cheapest 
 thing going to-day, " says the Satirist, "is 
 education." " I pay my cook," said Crates, 
 " four pounds a year; but a philosopher can 
 be hired for about sixpence and a tutor for 
 three-half-pence." " So to-day," writes 
 Erasmus, "a man stands aghast at the 
 thought of paying for his boy s education 
 a sum which would buy a foal or hire a 
 farm-servant." "Frugality! it is another 
 name for madness ! " 
 
 Friday, November 15 th 
 
 At 10.30 A.M. we were received at 
 the Minnesota State University, Minnea 
 polis, at a Convocation held in the Armoury, 
 no other building being large enough to 
 seat the thousands who had come to welcome 
 us. There were addresses, and three of us 
 made speeches which were listened to with 
 
*{ 97 }* 
 
 the utmost patience and sympathy, but the 
 "note" of the ceremony was the music 
 supplied by the Minneapolis Symphony 
 Orchestra. This was really magnificent. 
 
 The Boy and I stayed with the President 
 of the University and his family who, like all 
 our hosts, were most kind in seeing that we 
 had some sorely needed rest. In the late 
 afternoon we had a very " nourishing" dis 
 cussion with the Faculty and the executive 
 officers and made a few short speeches 
 after dining with them in the Ladies 
 Building. 
 
 Saturday, November i6 th 
 
 I visited the Zoological Department 
 and found amongst its many admirable 
 features an aquarium half as large as that 
 of the Marine Biological Association at 
 Plymouth, a "beavery" where young 
 beavers were building dams, and a Cinemato- 
 
 s. 7 
 
*{ 9 8> 
 
 graph Theatre fully equipped. The teachers 
 make their own "movie" films. After a 
 most pleasant luncheon with many of the 
 Professors, the Boy went to a Wisconsin 
 v. Minnesota football match. I did not, my 
 attitude towards athletics being that of the 
 Rhodes scholar whose certificate from his 
 home University testified that " whilst he 
 excelled in none he was sympathetic towards 
 all." 
 
 In the evening a reception took place in 
 our honour at the University President s 
 House. We were introduced to, and shook 
 hands with, some twelve hundred guests. 
 This took some hours and the net result 
 was that whilst our reason reeled, we 
 seemed to have given pleasure to a great 
 crowd of kindly folk; at any rate they were 
 polite enough to say so. 
 
*{ 99 }* 
 
 Sunday, November 17 th 
 
 In the morning I visited a famous 
 private Art Collection with some wonderful 
 Chinese curios and some fine pictures 
 rather weakened by a number of quite 
 mediocre paintings. 
 
 This city, though slightly south of Ottawa 
 and Montreal and very slightly east of Des 
 Moines, it is on the 45 parallel, is the 
 most northerly and, until we reach Houston, 
 Texas, the most westerly point of our journey . 
 We now turn south and "nightly pitch our 
 moving tent a day s march nearer home/ 
 
 This afternoon I came across a couple 
 of letters written by two Rulers on the 
 same subject, but in different tones : 
 
 A New York Times correspondent sends from 
 Paris the text of a letter written by the Kaiser to 
 a German woman who has lost nine sons in the 
 war. It is interesting, because of its contrast to 
 the letter of President Lincoln to Mrs Bixby 
 
 72 
 
*{ 
 
 100 } 
 
 during the American Civil War. The two letters 
 follow : 
 
 THE KAISER S LETTER 
 
 His Majesty the Kaiser hears 
 that you have sacrificed nine 
 sons in defence of the Father 
 land in the present war. His 
 Majesty is immensely gratified 
 at the fact, and in recognition 
 is pleased to send you his 
 photograph, with frame and 
 autograph signature. 
 
 LINCOLN S LETTER 
 
 Dear Madam : I have been 
 shown in the files of the War 
 Department a statement of the 
 Adjutant General of Massa 
 chusetts that you are the mother 
 of five sons who have died 
 gloriously on the field of battle. 
 I feel how weak and fruitless 
 must be any words of mine 
 which should attempt to be 
 guile you from the grief of a 
 loss so overwhelming. But I 
 cannot refrain from tendering 
 to you the consolation that 
 may be found in the thanks 
 of the Republic they died to 
 save. I pray that our Heavenly 
 Father may assuage the anguish 
 of your bereavement and leave 
 you only the cherished memory 
 of the loved and lost, and the 
 solemn pride that must be yours 
 to have laid so costly a sacri 
 fice upon the altar of freedom. 
 
 In the evening we boarded the train for 
 
*{ 
 
 Des Moines, Iowa. The first two or three 
 hours were somewhat disturbed by the 
 train developing a sort of rhythmic, me 
 chanical hiccough on a large scale, but in 
 time it found relief and we sleep. 
 
 Monday, November i8 th 
 
 We were rather apprehensive about 
 visiting Iowa, as some lowans we had 
 met in Minneapolis were so devoted to 
 liberty that they seemed anxious to add to 
 their own stock by taking it away from 
 everyone else. However, Iowa turned out 
 to be all right. 
 
 The object of our going to Des Moines 
 was to visit the State College of Agriculture 
 and Mechanic Arts at Ames, some thirty- 
 five miles north of the Capital City. Here 
 we split up into parties and I found it 
 impossible to visit more than the Veterinary 
 School and the Entomological Department. 
 In the latter I went through part of a well- 
 
*{ 102* }* 
 
 known Collection of Mites and here I met 
 with the first instance I had ever come 
 across of a pathogenic organism conveyed 
 to a plant (the beetroot) by the bite of an 
 insect (a Leaf-hopper, Eutettix tenella 
 Baker). This "is the first plant disease 
 definitely determined to be entirely de 
 pendent upon a specific insect for trans 
 mission." Like the Yellow-fever pathogenic 
 organism, and apparently that which causes 
 the modern Influenza and many other of 
 our troubles, that of the " Curly-leaf- 
 disease " of Beets is ultra-microscopic. 
 The insect only conveys the disease if it 
 has fed upon a diseased beet, but a single 
 bite of an infected leaf-hopper will infect 
 the whole plant, and the disease only occurs 
 in the beet when bitten by this one species 
 of insect, and it takes two weeks after the 
 puncture to develop. Further, the insect is 
 not capable of conveying the disease at 
 once, it must have an incubation period 
 within the body of the insect of at least 
 
{ io3 } 
 
 twenty-four hours, often forty-eight. Thus 
 this disease runs a course very similar to that 
 of insect-borne protozoal diseases in animals. 
 A somewhat similar history is now being 
 worked out in a potato disease. These 
 researches at Ames Agricultural College, 
 Iowa, open up an entirely new field in 
 plant pathology and will in all probability 
 prove of the greatest economic value to the 
 agriculturist. 
 
 The members of the Des Moines Club 
 put us up during our stay in the Capital 
 City and in the evening gave us one of the 
 best dinners we had received in this land 
 of dinners. We left them feeling as the 
 tablets say in our re-decorated churches , en 
 larged, restored and beautified," and making 
 our way to the train, left for St Louis. 
 
 Tuesday, November 19* 
 
 The Chancellor and the authorities 
 of the University, dedicated to the 
 
*{ 
 
 memory of that great Englishman, George 
 Washington, at St Louis, were most con 
 siderate and, though placing themselves 
 wholly at our disposal, left much of the 
 time to ourselves. Washington University 
 is finely situate on rising ground with 
 spacious views, some five miles from the 
 city. It is approached through a fine park, 
 the site of the World s Fair in 1904. The 
 entrance is both beautiful and imposing, a 
 broad series of low steps leading up to 
 the central gateway. All the buildings are 
 planned by one architect, all are built of the 
 same red granite a local stone and in 
 the same style, so that here, even as much 
 as at Chicago, the Campus has a unified 
 charm rare in Western Universities. The 
 Faculty gave us a sumptuous dinner, and 
 although we said we would not make 
 speeches, but would only just say "a word 
 or two," at the end the Chancellor said 
 he trembled to think what would have 
 happened if we had made speeches. 
 
*{ 105 }* 
 
 Wednesday, November 2 o th 
 
 We spent the morning at the Medical 
 School and Hospital. These two institu 
 tions are practically one, and only some 
 four years old. Everything is of the best 
 and only to be equalled by such modern 
 temples of healing as that of the University 
 of Cincinnati, where, curiously enough, the 
 Mayor of the town appoints the members 
 of the Board of Regents. Such a complete 
 hospital with a medical school at its dis 
 posal, or such a complete medical school 
 with a hospital at its disposal one does 
 not quite know which way to put it is 
 unknown with us. Every patient can be 
 analysed, measured, rayed, tested, in fact 
 inspected with all the latest appliances of 
 science, and the medical student is trained 
 in all these processes ; but when he becomes 
 the practising doctor in some small town 
 or remote village, what can he do in this 
 way even though (and this is never the 
 
*{ io6 J* 
 
 case) his patient could afford such refined 
 treatment? Well, he must just do the best 
 he can and must not envy the more 
 fortunate folk at St Louis. 
 
 We are beginning to come across the 
 problem of the coloured people. At Chicago 
 black and white lie in the same wards, but 
 at St Louis these patients do not mingle 
 beyond the out-patient department, and 
 farther south they do not mingle at 
 all. 
 
 The black troops have fought gallantly. 
 The Germans have complained about our 
 fighting with coloured troops, but they have 
 done far worse, they have been fighting 
 with German troops. The other day a 
 darkie soldier tried to break out of a camp 
 in the South to see his folk, and after a 
 lengthy dispute with the sentry, who told 
 him he would be shot if he persisted, he 
 replied, "Boss, t ain no sort o use you 
 stan in dere, cause I gwine out. I got a 
 maw in Hebben an I got a pa in Hell an 
 
*{ 107 }* 
 
 a sister in Memphis, an I gwine see one 
 of em dis night." 
 
 Later in the day we visited the Missouri 
 Botanical Garden, presented and endowed 
 by an Englishman, Mr Henry Shaw, who 
 had made a large fortune in hardware. The 
 gardens cover an area of 125 acres, and 
 there are grown some 11,000 species of 
 plants. The hot-houses are very fine, 
 especially those devoted to heaths, orchids, 
 cycads, palms and pineapples and the flora 
 of the desert. One house was full of a 
 Chrysanthemum show, the most interesting 
 plant in which was the ur-chrysanthemum 
 (C. indicum Linn. partim or C. morifo- 
 lium Ram.), from which all modern forms 
 are derived. It has an exceedingly beautiful 
 though small blossom, and one could not 
 but regret that the horticulturists had not 
 left the lovely blossom alone, instead of 
 breeding it into many-coloured monsters, 
 which so singularly mimic their own paper 
 imitations. 
 
*{ io8 }* 
 
 
 
 In the evening we left for Lexington, 
 Kentucky. 
 
 Thursday, November n st 
 
 Everywhere had we been received 
 well and more than well, but at Lexington 
 there was a warm-heartedness about our 
 hosts which made us feel at once inhabitants 
 of " My old Kentucky home." We motored 
 out some twenty miles to the Shaker 
 Village, where we fed on the dishes of the 
 South, and very good dishes too, in a 
 stately house with well-proportioned rooms, 
 with a fine hall and ample staircase, and 
 the date 1817 over the lintel of the front 
 door. On the road we passed, what we had 
 not passed before, the homes of country 
 gentlemen who live in them, and do not 
 merely sleep a "week-end" in them. Here 
 they breed race-horses and race them, and 
 raise tobacco and smoke it; in fact, Lexing 
 ton is both a social and a trading centre. 
 
*{ 109 }* 
 
 This possibly accounts for the excellence of 
 the first-rate hotel where we were housed. 
 
 On returning we saw something of the 
 University buildings, and inspected the 
 Students Army Training Corps, now all 
 eager to get out of khaki. At dinner we 
 were cheered by nigger minstrelsy and by 
 a minimum of speeches. Afterwards we 
 had a discussion with some of the Governors 
 and members of the Faculty. The value of 
 these discussions is always inversely pro 
 portional to the size of the meeting. At 
 Lexington the meeting was small. 
 
 Friday, November 22 nd 
 
 After a hurried visit to the University 
 Farm, where we were introduced to a hen 
 of unparalleled fecundity, and to the Schools 
 of Agriculture and Engineering, we left in 
 the morning for New Orleans, sorry to say 
 good-bye to Kentucky. 
 
 "The way of the transgressor is hard," 
 
*{ no }* 
 
 said the coal-merchant to* me as we sat in the 
 minute smoking compartment of the observa 
 tion car. " Last night," he continued," I dis 
 sipated some, and all this morning I ve been 
 feeling mighty sick. Them folk that wrote 
 the old Bible were smart, Sir, they knew all 
 about human frailties, same as you and me." 
 I don t believe that I should have known 
 that he was a coal-merchant but that he 
 informed me that most folk liked to talk 
 about what they traded in, and he talked 
 about coal. He took a profound interest in 
 a pile of coal at one of the depots we halted 
 at. To me it seemed much the same as any 
 other coal-dump, and it only appealed to 
 me as a rather lavish display of what in my 
 country is a really rare mineral. The sight 
 of a funnel or chute for conveying the coal 
 into the trucks excited his enthusiasm. I 
 suppose there was some money-saving con 
 trivance in it which attracted him, but I 
 confess, whatever it was, it left me cold. 
 All the day and all the night we traversed 
 
*{ III }* 
 
 Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Missis 
 sippi, until on 
 
 Saturday, November 23 rd 
 
 we pulled about noon into the 
 depot at New Orleans. Most of the 
 morning we had been crossing great arms 
 of the sea, old mouths of the Mississippi, 
 but now known as Lake Pontchartrain, or 
 skirting inland waterways, bayous. One 
 wished we could see a crocodile. 
 
 After all, there are only two species of 
 crocodile in North America, and one of these 
 is an alligator. We couldn t possibly see 
 the true crocodile (Crocodilus americanus 
 Laurenti) as, though it extends from central 
 Mexico to Equador and the West Indian 
 Islands, in the States it lives only in the 
 waterways and the salt water marshes of the 
 southern tip of Florida. It is an agile, vicious 
 beast but no man-eater. More slender than 
 the alligator and with a pointed snout, it is 
 
*{ 112 }* 
 
 much more active and- swift in its move 
 ments. Its colour changes as it ages, but 
 there is always more olive-green and gray 
 in its pigmentation than in that of the 
 alligator. It was discovered only in 1875. 
 "Oh! What a crocodilian year was that! 
 as Francis Quarles exclaims in his Emblems. 
 Quarles was a member of my College, 
 Christ s! 
 
 The last-named (Alligator mississippiensis 
 (Daudin)) has more yellow and black 
 patches and a broader head and snout. It 
 is usually said that its growth is slow, but 
 Ditmars observations show that the growth 
 in length and in weight is comparatively 
 rapid. This alligator extends from North 
 Carolina to Florida and as far west as the 
 Rio Grande in Texas, frequenting the low 
 swamps and rivers of the coast. Un 
 fortunately it is becoming extinct and the 
 discovery that its skin can be tanned and 
 made into leather for bags and purses is 
 hastening its disappearance. Two and a 
 
*{ H3 }* 
 
 half million were destroyed in the years 
 1880-1894 chiefly for their skins. In the 
 south their eggs are also eaten, for, unfor 
 tunately for the race, alligators lay very 
 palatable eggs and their nests are con 
 spicuous and easily rifled. 
 
 Alone amongst reptiles the alligator 
 roars. Other reptiles hiss but the gator, as 
 the coloured folk call him, emits a bellow 
 which in the still night of the south carries 
 a mile or more. The voice of the young is 
 as the "mooing" of a cow, but a big male, 
 ten feet or more in length, roars with a 
 thunderous and tremulous blast. He, at 
 the same time, emits from under his chin 
 "fine steaming jets of a powerful nasty 
 smelling fluid" which "float off into the 
 heavy miasmatic atmosphere of the bayou." 
 The odour may be carried for miles and to 
 the negroes it always signifies "a big ol 
 gator." 
 
 On arriving at the Depot at New Orleans 
 we left immediately for Tulane University 
 
 s. 
 
*{ ii4 }* 
 
 and en route some of us must have fallen 
 in with a reporter. Hitherto I have shown 
 a certain reticence about the members of 
 our Commission, but now all is discovered! 
 The New Orleans Item has given us away, 
 given us away rather too generously. I 
 quote from its classic columns: 
 
 BRITISH EDUCATORS 
 VISIT NEWCOMB 
 WITH DINWIDDIE 
 
 "TUBBING "IS PART OF BRITISHERS 
 PRELIMINARIES FOR TOUR OF CITY 
 
 The British University Mission which was 
 heralded as the British Education Mission, an 
 
*{ "5 }* 
 
 error, as the members have to do only with 
 college and university work arrived in New 
 Orleans, Saturday shortly after noon, and after a 
 short stay at the Griinewald for the "tubbing," 
 which constitutes as much of British formality 
 as any of their other national customs, were 
 driven to Tulane University by Capt. Edith 
 Haspel and Corporal Flower of the Emergency 
 Motor Corps of the American Red Cross. 
 
 " Oh, I say," said Sir H - J , seeing the 
 
 Red Cross insignia on the cap of Captain Haspel, 
 "You re not going to take us to a hospital ? What ? " 
 
 But it was to Newcomb that the party of 
 British educators went after a short stay at the 
 hotel. Dr Dinwiddie of Tulane and Dr Pierce 
 Butler of Newcomb met the party at the station 
 and accompanied the five members of the mission 
 to a luncheon that had been arranged, prepared 
 and served by members of the domestic science 
 class of Newcomb College. 
 
 "Chilly, Eh Wot?" 
 
 As the automobile sped up St Charles avenue, 
 Reverend E - W , Fellow and Tutor of 
 
 82 
 
*{ n6 }* 
 
 Queen s College, Oxford, Member of the Heb 
 domadal History (sic), leaned close to Dr J 
 
 J , Professor of Geology and Mineralogy, 
 
 Trinity College, Dublin, and said : 
 
 "It s beastly chilly, Eh Doctor?" 
 
 "Quite so, my dear Doctor, I had expected a 
 much milder climate something like Capri, 
 what?" 
 
 "Righto!" 
 
 Dr Dinwiddie explained that this was severe 
 weather for the early winter, but the disappoint 
 ment was evident in Dr W s face. It is the 
 winter, but the disappointment of the doctor s 
 first trip to America, and his impressions are 
 varied. 
 
 " I rather expected to see life of a more tropical 
 nature," he said, "are there no fruits at this time 
 of year, no bananas? I had expected to see 
 monkeys, and other tropical animals here I am 
 quite disappointed, you know!" 
 
 New Orleans Item. 
 25. xi. 1 8. 
 
*{ "7 }* 
 
 "SOLDIER LOSES BUTTON" 
 
 Sir A S l has with him a Secretary, 
 
 a young English soldier, blue-eyed, blond 2 and 
 big. Shivers of excitement were noticed among 
 the girls of Newcomb when he appeared among 
 the older members of the Mission. But Lieut. 
 N was worried. "I m in a deuce of a pre 
 dicament," he said, "I ve lost a button from my 
 uniform and it makes me feel so undressed, you 
 know" 
 
 "Suppose," said Dr Dinwiddie, "that we have 
 one of the young ladies sew it on for you." 
 
 "I should be most pleased," said Lieutenant 
 
 N , and presently he was led away in quest 
 
 of a needle, thread and a girl 3 attached. 
 
 "Isn t it odd," said Dr S when Lieut. 
 
 N returned beaming with the glint of an 
 
 international romance in his blue eye, "I, too, 
 have lost a button!" 
 
 1 The kindly Southerner often grants honours 
 which are quite unmerited. 
 
 2 He has black hair and dark eyes but something 
 must be sacrificed to alliteration. 
 
 3 A friendly negress of mature charms. 
 
*{ n8 }* 
 
 We lunched as usual in the Ladies 
 College, called after Miss H. S. Newcomb. 
 We saw something of the several depart 
 ments, and in that of Household Economy 
 I had just time to copy from the black 
 board some recipes for salads, oyster- 
 cocktails, and other comforts before being 
 hurried along to chemistry. Whilst eating 
 the admirable "gumbo," a sort of bouille- 
 abaisse but less fishy, prepared by the 
 students, I congratulated myself that I had 
 done so. We made a few speeches, and 
 were especially interested in one by the 
 Dean of Newcomb Hall, and one by the 
 Professor of Engineering who was trained 
 at Annapolis, and told us of the part our 
 Admiralty had played in training the men 
 who built up the American Navy. 
 
 The Art School at Newcomb College is 
 outstanding. The Director is a gifted 
 artist. As in many other American Uni 
 versities, ceramics take a leading part in the 
 art students course, but embroidery, church 
 
*{ n 9 }* 
 
 vestments, metal work, and jewellery are 
 also studied, besides painting and modelling. 
 A student with a taste for any of the so- 
 called "Arts and Crafts" can pay her way 
 through College after her sophomore year 
 and has no difficulty in making a living 
 after graduating. Indeed, the Dean of 
 Newcomb College told us he could " place" 
 double the number of graduates were the 
 College twice as big. 
 
 We are on the 30 parallel, well south of 
 the Canary Islands and of Cairo, yet it is 
 cold, bleak and, worst of all, wet. In spite 
 of this, I was able to see enough of the city 
 to prove in my eyes it is the most beautiful 
 of the many cities I have visited in the 
 United States during the last thirty-two 
 years. The wonderful avenues with grass 
 down the middle, and palms down the sides, 
 the luxurious gardens which form a setting 
 for the houses of the well-to-do, all open 
 to the public gaze, make a whole which, 
 to one with a soul inclining as Lowell 
 
*{ 120 }* 
 
 says "to the southern slope," is irre 
 sistible. 
 
 We dined with the President of Tulane 
 and heard some charming negro melodies, 
 mostly of the revivalist sort. Just now 
 " negro-spirituals "are the fashion, especially 
 in the North. 
 
 Some of the experiences of the darkie at 
 the Front are striking. A bunch of corre 
 spondents there came across a big black 
 Corporal suffering from the effects of high 
 explosives and asked what they could do to 
 help." Well, suh, boss, I don jess rightly 
 know whut ail me. Well, suh, yeh know, 
 dee sawnt us up yonder a little piece. We 
 wus dere fur two days wid dem big shells 
 jess bustin up de town: and dee had tole 
 us to git under kiver when er shell come. 
 Well, suh, boss, I wus out dere, an* de 
 shells commence ter come an I went fer 
 to git under kiver. Mos all de houses wus 
 gone, blowed plumb down; but I seen one 
 dese here places whut dee calls a Tavern 
 
*{ 121 }* 
 
 you know, boss, dat means er saloon. Dey 
 wa n t no folks in hit, but I jess made up 
 my min I wus gwine git in dat house. 
 An I reach out my han fer de door knob. 
 An jess when I gits ready to open de do - 
 Blim Blim Blooy here come er shell 
 an jess tuck dat saloon out uv my han ." 
 
 During the evening we had an informal 
 talk at the Round Table Club and here we 
 met many interesting and leading citizens 
 of New Orleans. The President of Tulane 
 is a man of few words, but has a remarkable 
 power of hitting a nail on the head. He 
 certainly made us think as he pointed out 
 certain snags in our way. 
 
 Sunday, November 24* 
 
 To-day was glorious, bright sun 
 shine and clear air. The Boy and I visited 
 the French quarter and found it picturesque 
 
*{ 122 }* 
 
 but decayed. It simply exuded romance and 
 obviously we must all read George Cable s 
 stories all over again. We attended a 
 service at the Cathedral and then sat in 
 the sun and were daguerreotyped, and had 
 a group of piccaninnies similarly treated. 
 I had thought this was a dead art, but 
 it isn t, and it was delightful to see the 
 old daguerreotypist fishing our pictures on 
 little metal plates by means of a magnet 
 out of a pail with some solution in it. The 
 little darkies guessed we were French and 
 then Italian, and their powers of speculation 
 being by now exhausted, we told them that 
 we were English. Immediately they took the 
 Boy to be the Prince of Wales and guessed 
 he was mighty glad to be out of that battle 
 and assured us that they would have felt 
 the same in similar circumstances. We 
 also visited the fruit market, a riot of 
 colour. 
 
 In the afternoon we attended a conference 
 in the Gold Room of our Hotel, the most 
 
*{ 123 }* 
 
 charming feature of which was the beautiful 
 singing of our lady hostesses. 
 
 In the evening we left in a private car 
 for Houston, Texas. 
 
 Monday, November 2 5 th 
 
 My Cambridge Pocket Diary records 
 that to-day the " Inns of Court Michaelmas 
 (Dining) Term ends." Such a statement 
 makes one feel homesick. It is so essentially 
 English. Surely in no other country in the 
 world could such an event happen. Princi 
 palities and powers are tottering, crowns 
 are crashing and the "Inns of Court 
 Michaelmas (Dining) Term ends" on the 
 normal date. 
 
 The weather adds to our nostalgia for 
 it is foggy, wet and cold, not at all 
 the weather for the Hispano-moresque 
 buildings of the Rice Institution (by Cram) 
 which demand a blazing sun and blue 
 sky. 
 
*{ 124 }* 
 
 They are indeed wonderful buildings and 
 recalled Browning s lines: 
 
 A sort of temple perhaps a college, 
 
 Like nothing I ever saw before 
 
 At home in England, to my knowledge. 
 
 Christmas Eve and Easter Day. 
 
 After a formal reception in the Faculty 
 Chamber we lunched with the Mayor and 
 Municipality at the huge Rice Hotel, which 
 would be conspicuous even in New York. 
 Houston is a comparatively new city but 
 its enterprise is boundless. In the afternoon 
 I gave a lecture to a crowded audience on 
 "The Depths of the Sea." The hearers 
 were very patient and very appreciative. 
 
 We are staying in a most charming house, 
 one of the most comfortable I have ever been 
 in, and one feels absolutely at home but with 
 superadded comforts. The flowers alone 
 are a joy after days of flowerless hotels and 
 trains. In the evening there was a reception 
 and here we met the Governor of the State 
 
*{ 125 }* 
 
 and many others with whom we had all too 
 little time to talk. 
 
 Tuesday, November 2,6 th 
 
 Conferences and lectures took up 
 much of the day but their rigour was 
 mitigated by a luncheon given us by the 
 Chamber of Commerce. I always like talking 
 to business men ; somehow they seem more 
 easily pleased than their academic brothers. 
 The food controller of Texas gave a stimu 
 lating address on the success of the efforts 
 made in this respect in the State, and some 
 striking statistics of the food shortage which 
 still obtains throughout the Old World. 
 A well-attended smoking concert at the 
 roomy University Club, with more short 
 addresses, closed a somewhat strenuous day. 
 
 Wednesday, November 27* 
 
 All the morning we held a series of 
 discussions and conferences on a " League 
 
*{ iz6 }* 
 
 of Nations," a Federation of Churches/ 
 a "League of Learnirfg." No one will 
 clearly define what the suggested "League 
 of Nations" is to be, and no one will tell 
 us if the Central Powers of Europe are to 
 be leaguers or not. After all, no one knows 
 whether there will be many nations in 
 what was Russia or many in what was 
 Germany, so the discussion is a little pre 
 mature. Still, a good many find the phrase, 
 as the old lady found the word Mesopo 
 tamia, helpful and soothing. 
 
 We lunched at the invitation of the City 
 Board of Education at the South End 
 Junior High School. The Republic of 
 Texas (1836-48) split off from the mother 
 country Mexico for many reasons ; one, and 
 this is surely unique amongst rebelling 
 States, was that the Central Government 
 did not supply the people with sufficient 
 public schools. This deficiency is now made 
 good, but generous as the tax-payer is to 
 education, it is difficult to keep pace with 
 
*{ 127 I* 
 
 the growth of the people and the deep- 
 rooted determination to educate their 
 children. The school where we found our 
 selves was a fine building standing in 
 spacious grounds. Inside were wide corri 
 dors, ample staircases, well-proportioned 
 class-rooms, a magnificent gymnasium and 
 swimming bath. The care of the body is 
 only second, perhaps not always second, 
 to the care of the mind in American schools 
 and colleges. 
 
 Thursday, November 2 8 th 
 
 Thanksgiving Day. 
 
 And very real thanksgivings were given 
 on this most memorable day. A spirit of 
 rest and relief was in the land. We have 
 been over here just fifty days, we have 
 visited about fifty Universities, we have 
 travelled some five thousand miles, and 
 have met some fifty thousand professors, 
 or so it seemed to me, and we were tired 
 
*{ 128 }* 
 
 and rather New- World- worn. Hence we 
 accepted the kind invitation of our more 
 than kind host and took a couple of days 
 off. We were rewarded and our proceeding 
 was sanctioned by the weather, for we had 
 a typical Texan day, a warm sun, a cool 
 but not cold day, and a cloudless blue sky. 
 
 The officers of the 57th Regiment invited 
 me to a dinner and dance they were giving 
 to the General in command. It was an 
 admirably managed affair. The meal was 
 served on long tables set around the ball 
 room and between each course the young 
 people danced to the music of the regi 
 mental band. I felt quite like an ancient 
 Roman. 
 
 Sydney Smith used to say that the highest 
 form of human happiness was " eating pate- 
 de-foie gras to the sound of trumpets." 
 I have never tried this, but I feel convinced 
 that eating pineapple-salad to the dance 
 music of the 57th Regiment s band makes 
 a very good second. 
 
}* 
 
 Friday, November 19* 
 
 After fixing up our tickets for the 
 journey to Boston I had time to visit the 
 hospital at the Logan Camp. The wards 
 are "open air" and the abundance of 
 mosquito wiring was evidence of a trouble 
 from which we at home are almost free. 
 The kitchen, with even* conceivable device to 
 save labour, was spotlessly clean and owing 
 to a native skill in cooking and an abundance 
 of most varied foods, the patients are better 
 fed than with us. 
 
 We felt sorry to leave Houston. Our 
 hosts were kind beyond measure. They all 
 conspired to make us feel we were not 
 guests but members and popular members 
 of the family, and they fully succeeded. 
 We were sorry to leave "the darkies/ they 
 were so willing to help and so anxious to 
 oblige. As they told our hostess, they knew 
 at once we were English because they could 
 not understand a single word we said. 
 
*{ i3 }* 
 
 Their smile and general cheerfulness deserve 
 many marks. Their philosophy ought to 
 teach us a lesson. One who was asked why 
 negroes never commit suicide replied, 
 "Well, Boss, it s jes lik dis White man 
 sit down an worries about his troubles till 
 he jes goes an shoots hisself. Niggah sit 
 down and worries about his troubles an* 
 jes nachally fall asleep." Surely the better 
 way. 
 
 Saturday, November 30* 
 
 St Andrew s Day. 
 
 We traversed half of Texas in the night, 
 and part of Louisiana ; at New Orleans we 
 changed trains and Depots early in the 
 morning and then we traversed Mississippi. 
 Until we had left Mobile we were never 
 far from the Gulf, and we were passing 
 through scenery like that of the everglades 
 of Florida. We saw innumerable sluggish 
 waterways, with turbid, almost stagnant, 
 
*{ I3 1 }* 
 
 streams with low muddy banks, the flat 
 land clothed with a tangle of sub-tropical 
 vegetation, the trees, never large, bearded 
 with streamy lichens, " Spanish-moss " as 
 the term goes, stood out of a matted im 
 penetrable undergrowth still green but so 
 tired-looking! Except for the buzzards, 
 which are ubiquitous, we saw little or no 
 bird life. 
 
 Alabama provided us with such a sunset 
 as I have never before seen, not even in 
 South Africa or in Egypt. A vast continent 
 of molten gold, with opal lakes and inlets 
 of the sea, and here and there black patches 
 like cities set on their shores. No words 
 can describe it. Some one placed "in a 
 golden chair " had splashed " at a ten-league 
 canvas with brushes of comets hair." It 
 lasted fully an hour, but only the Boy and 
 the Knight and I watched it. Its glory was 
 concealed from our fellow-travellers who 
 for most part slumbered and slept. 
 
Sunday, December I st 
 
 On a Pullman car one learns much 
 about the legislation of the several States. 
 The varying injunctions are printed on the 
 bills-of-fare and suggest fertile subjects of 
 conversation with one s fellow-travellers. 
 For instance, it is forbidden in Tennessee 
 and in Indiana to sell cigarettes. Apparently 
 one may buy them and the tobacco shops are 
 open and flourish, but their sale is forbidden. 
 We kept east of Tennessee and were quite a 
 long way off Indiana. In Georgia the Legis 
 lature has forbidden all tipping, but we only 
 passed through a corner of Georgia and the 
 kindly railway authorities, ever mindful of 
 the welfare of their dining-car waiters, had 
 so arranged the time-table that we passed 
 through this corner between meals. 
 
 When I first arrived in New York, thirty- 
 two years ago, I put up at the Windsor 
 Hotel, long since burned down. Tipping 
 was not very prevalent in those days. There 
 
*{ 133 }* 
 
 was a kind of attitude of a people "too 
 proud" to tip, though I have never actually 
 met anyone who refused to take one. Still, 
 you didn t tip the men who looked after 
 your hat whilst you were dining. These 
 were very wonderful men. They gave you 
 no check, and as you left the dining-room 
 they prided themselves on handing you 
 back the right hat. Coming out just before 
 me a gentleman received a hat which made 
 him exclaim: "That s not my hat!" "I 
 don t know whether it s your hat or not," 
 said the hat man, "it s the hat you g ve me ! " 
 Nowadays you very soon spend the cost 
 of your hat in gratifying the hat-guardians 
 if you lunch or dine in restaurants or hotels 
 at all frequently. 
 
 You now receive a check but the checking 
 is not so accurate as the hatmen of the 
 eighties. Coming away the other day after 
 lunch one heard a fellow-luncher saying to 
 his companion," What on earth did you give 
 that fellow ten dollars f or ? " " Well , look at 
 
 93 
 
*{ 134 }* 
 
 that coat he has given me," was the response, 
 as the happy tipper exhibited a five-hundred 
 dollar fur-lined coat. 
 
 All through Georgia and the two Caro- 
 linas the cotton crops were awaiting picking. 
 What with one thing and another the harvest 
 down south lasts half the year. We passed 
 a number of modern cotton factories en 
 gaged, as the conductor told us, in the 
 manufacture of "domestics." At Lynch- 
 burg, Va.,we bought some persimmons, but 
 eating persimmons is to "snatch a fearful 
 joy" and we soon desisted. 
 
 Monday, December 2 nd 
 
 Owing to engine trouble we were 
 late in reaching Washington; however we 
 did get there between 2 and 3 A.M., and 
 found the city, on the eve of the President s 
 farewell address, fast asleep. During the 
 morning we went shopping, saw some old 
 friends and some Senators. No matter 
 
*{ i35 }* 
 
 where they come from, Senators seem to ac 
 quire a certain "fades" as zoologists term 
 it, something between that of a popular 
 preacher and an important tragedian. They 
 are readily recognised by a systematist. 
 
 We visited the enormous grounds of the 
 Bureau of Standards, covered with count 
 less laboratories in which every conceivable 
 article used by the Government is tested and 
 analysed. We also saw the well-equipped 
 Zoological Gardens, open free to all, main 
 tained "by the people and for the people." 
 
 In the evening we left for Boston, our 
 fourth consecutive night on the cars. 
 
 Tuesday, December 3 rd 
 
 We were put up again in our old 
 home at Cambridge by the ever hospitable 
 President of Harvard and his kindly wife, 
 and were delighted to find there was for 
 one day nothing particular to do, and in the 
 words of the poet we "did it very well." 
 
*{ 136 }* 
 Wednesday, December 4 th 
 
 This morning we attended the twen 
 tieth Annual Meeting of the " Association 
 of American Universities " which consists of 
 the Presidents and certain of the Deans of 
 the several Universities. It is perhaps the 
 most important educational body we met, 
 and the discussions in which we took part 
 were on a high level. In the evening we 
 were hospitably entertained at the Harvard 
 Club. 
 
 The witty and good-humoured " spar 
 ring " between the Presidents of two of the 
 oldest American Universities called to my 
 mind in an inverted sort of way a conversa 
 tion between two wealthy New Yorkers, 
 both of whom were wedded to wives with 
 social ambitions. " Is your wife entertaining 
 this season?" said one to the other, about 
 Christmas time; "Not very," was the sad 
 reply. 
 
Thursday, December 5 th 
 
 Neither the Boy nor I have quite got 
 over our four days continuous trip from 
 Texas to Massachusetts. He has been 
 writing and reading most of the time and 
 revelling in certain rare early editions of 
 Edgar Allan Poe which he has found in the 
 Harvard University Library. I have felt 
 so tired that to-day I stopped in bed until 
 tea-time. I feel as Pinkerton did, "I want 
 to lie on my back in a garden and read 
 Shakespeare and E. P. Roe," only it s 
 snowing outside. 
 
 This meeting of the "Association of 
 American Universities" is the last item of 
 our official programme and we rather charac 
 teristically brought our Mission to an end 
 by cutting a Session of the Deans in the 
 evening. It was snowing heavily out-of- 
 doors and we stopped at home for it is 
 a home turned down the lights and told 
 ghost stories. 
 
*{ 138 }* 
 
 This seems a suitable date to close this 
 diary. We shall have, by the time we reach 
 home, travelled about twice the diameter of 
 the earth, and everywhere we have met 
 friends, and nearly everywhere we had fine 
 weather, for the heavens smiled on our 
 Mission. 
 
 A highland minister, a mystic and a 
 man of blameless life, went out to the 
 Front as " padre" to a regiment largely 
 recruited from his district. He was one of 
 those unhappy mortals who believed that 
 for him there was no hope. Every now and 
 then he could not refrain from seeking 
 human sympathy, and one day, pouring 
 out his troubles to a blue-eyed subaltern, 
 he ended his discourse by saying, " I 
 veritably believe I am the wickedest man 
 in France." "Yes Sir," said the boy, "but 
 you must remember what a deuce of a 
 good time you must have had." 
 
 I think we shall all go back to our country 
 
*{ 139 }* 
 
 remembering "what a deuce of a good 
 time" we have had. 
 
 And here, if I may quote the words of 
 the unknown author of the Maccabees : 
 
 And here will I make an end, 
 
 And if I have done well, and as is fitting the 
 story, it is 4hat which I desired, and if slenderly 
 and meanly, it is that which I could attain 
 unto... And as wine mingled with water is 
 pleasant and delighteth the taste, even so speech, 
 finely framed, delighteth the ears of them that 
 read the story. 
 
 And here shall be an end. 
 
CAMBRIDGE : PRINTED BY 
 
 J. B. PEACE, M.A., 
 AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS 
 
100 
 
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