LIBRARY OK THK UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. Deceived JAN 1895 , /&? Accessions No.iffi$/7. CAzss No. \. A fa SNAP NOTES AN EASTERN TRIP FROM DIARY OF FANNIE DE C. MILLER When found, make a note of " Captain Cuttle SAN FRANCISCO THE S. CARSON COMPANY PUBLISHERS AND BOOKSELLERS. 1893 srf f To MY SISTERS, NELLIE, TESSIE AND JOSIE, WHO AFFORDED ME THE TRIP, AND MRS. B. D. MURPHY, WHO ADDED TO ITS ENJOYMENT, I DEDICATE THESE STRAGGLING NOTES AS A SLIGHT SOUVENIR OF MY APPRECIATION OF THE PLEASURE EXPERIENCED. PREFACE. IN presenting these hastily snatched notes for perusal my friends will generously bear in mind the fact that no attempt at literary effort is intended. Having had the benefit of the trip and enjoyed it, I reproduce some of the leaves of my diary for private circulation, and may be pardoned for so doing since it is commemorative of my first visit outside the bounds of the California peninsula. That many pages of this little book may contain faults I readily acknowledge and must regret, in view of my motto, Scriptum manet. F. DE C. M. CONTENTS. PAGE. I. OVER THE RANGE 9 II. FROM OGDEN EAST OVER THE DENVER AND Rio GRANDE 17 III. FROM DENVER TO DETROIT .... 32 IV. A VISIT TO NIAGARA 45 V. THE CITY OF BOSTON 58 VI. GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK 75 VII. A TRIP UP THE HUDSON 88 VIII. THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE ... 96 IX. A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS . .102 X. ROSELAND AND ENNISCORTHY, TYPICAL SOUTHERN HOMES . . . . .108 XI. SCENES IN GETTYSBURG . . . . .115 XII. THE CITY OF EMMITTSBURG, THE OLD HOMESTEAD AT UNION MILLS . .125 XIII. MOUNT VERNON XIV. THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON . . .137 XV. LAST DAYS IN MARYLAND . . . .143 XVI. HOMEWARD BOUND 150 XVII. SALT LAKE CITY 157 XV] II. HOME AGAIN 161 SNAP NOTES. CHAPTER I. OVER THE RANGE. August 17, 1891. THE afterglow of sunset, gleaming through warm folds of purple haze overhanging the crest of Tamalpais, steals down softly and silently over rippling waves of the lovely bay, as we, a knot of kinsfolk, seat ourselves comfortably in the Oakland ferryboat, prepar atory to temporarily exchanging California s matchless clime and genial fellowship for East ern scenes and society. Later, twixt the hours of seven and eight, darkness crept " from the wings of night," and finds us cozily en sconced in the drawing room of a Pullman palace carriage midway in the train of four teen cars, and forming a direct contrast to the historical pilgrims who trod westward the same route in less enviable style, in the memorable "pioneer days." (9) 10 SNAP NOTES. After friends, who accompany us thus far, have taken leave of the party, we start on the Eastward "tack," and ere lapsing many miles partake of a collation, plenteously provided by a thoughtful friend. Now, watching the Marin hills slowly fading into the dim distance, with the familiar out lines of grand old Tamalpais gradually reced ing from view, effects a sense of lonesomeness only experienced when leaving those we love, by whom we have been always surrounded, even though absence may cover but the space of a few months. The shadow of gloom is partly dispelled by our chaperon s call to cheerfulness, with a gentle reminder that the spirit of happiness and mirth should govern the members of our party, whom I shall en deavor to introduce to my diary. We are five. Busily engaged hanging hats, wraps, etc., where they must remain for several days, is Mrs. Mur phy, worthy wife of my excellent cousin, Hon. B. D. Murphy, of San Jose. Merrily humming "Mary and John," she is cheery and light- hearted as a bird, and anxious that all should be as happy as herself. Reclining lazily on a cushioned sofa is her daughter,. Miss Evalyn, who, after gracefully cutting the pages of " Under Two Flags," lan guidly prepares for rest, A recent student VER THE RA NGE. 1 1 with the Madames of the Sacred Heart, I hope for interesting conversational companionship in this accomplished daughter of my respected kinsman, which hope gilds the prospect of a long journey with pleasure. Arranging her locks before one of the many mirrors that line our boudoir, stands Miss Maud Arques, my other cousin, a perfect "daughter of the gods, divinely tall," and lovely as an houri, her olive complexion and black hair proclaiming her one of "Spain s dark-eyed daughters." Darting hither and thither, to and from the drawing room, the life and joy of the occasion, a "bother "yet a pleasure, is Martin Murphy, eldest son of Hon. B. D., destined for George town University, whither his mother is accom panying him. Last and least is this " chield amang ye takin notes, and faith I ll print them!" Retiring at ten o clock, I find to my anxiety that slumber fails to visit mine eyelids, and am wide-awake at eleven o clock, as we are launched into Sacramento, where we linger a weary length of time. Mrs. Murphy and Miss Arques, who have not retired, are looking out upon the city and conversing with ac quaintances. Sleep for me has vanished for the night, the unusual noise and motion of the cars having banished "nature s sweet re- 12 SNAP NOTES. storer," leaving me awake, to the influence of thought-producing, meditative night. August 18, Tuesday. We climbed the Sierras during the hours of darkness, and nothing more picturesque than long snowsheds meets my glance of curiosity and interest, as I stealthily raise the curtain for a glimpse of the rugged scenery. At eight o clock we arrive at Truckee, but must note the environs and town on our return trip, as I am too tired and unrefreshed to view it satisfacto rily, in the somber gray of early morning. Steaming along the south bank of the Truckee* where romantic beauty abounds, water rip pling over rocks in frothy fretfulness, the low, craggy banks fringed with tamarack saplings and fragrant pine trees but at these I may only glance, as breakfast is announced, and we must proceed to the dining car. During the meal we enter Reno, at nine o clock. The dusky tribe are out in full force and glare of color, the women particularly brilliant in flashy calicoes, and heads ornamented with bright kerchiefs, that on Arabs might be called tarbooshes, or perhaps kufiyehs, but our more familiar and comprehensive language simply styles bandannas. The novel scene is especially interesting to a veritable " innocent OVER THE RANGE. 13 abroad" like myself. I admire the valley out stretching from Reno, but the admiration ceases when the eye is carried to the hills, arid and bleak -looking in their covering of sage brush. A monotonous sameness of lifeless waste characterizes the country until reaching Wadsworth, on the east bank of the Truckee, two hundred and seventy-eight miles from San Francisco. Here we delay for ten minutes, alight from the train, stroll about, and Martin tries several kodak pictures. When about re- entering the train, I meet Mr. John T. Malone, the actor, who remembered me from my con vent days. He was delighted to have met the party at Sacramento, and, upon Mrs. Murphy s invitation, enters our drawing room, and enter tains us most agreeably. He pointed out the "sink of the Humboldt," of which I have so often heard my father speak, in relating his pioneer experiences and vicissitudes crossing these "plains." We are pleased to have Mr. Malone s interesting companionship over this " realm of drifting sand," the Humboldt Desert, which takes a whole day to span. He recalls some incidents of my earlier acquaintance with him, amuses us with accounts and plots of dif ferent plays, and, indeed, makes us feel how " lightly falls the foot of time, that only treads on flowers." My first letter home, to dear 14 SNAP NOTES. lie, I post at Lovelocks, in the heart of the des ert. Our next stopping-place is Humboldt, a fresh, green spot, a perfect oasis, indeed, in this dreary sand waste, and here we take our lunch eon, enjoying a waiting of ten minutes. Martin, our " local artist," essayed to kodak our group, with Mr. Malone in the center. It is now 3:30 p. M. and Winnemucca lies in sight, a larger town than I expected to see, but no [more charming in appearance than others of the vast, dreary, sterile plain, that "lies like a load on the wearied eye." The name is In dian, and the cognomen of a Piute chief who was one of several who resided here during the romantic era of the West. At four o clock we pass through Elkon, an other desert(ed) village of no great prominence, and I glance out with the same result, the old "bald, blear skull of the desert" still shining under glare of the sinking sun. Battle Mountain is reached at 5:30 P. M., where Mrs. Huntsman, a former resident of San Jose, keeps a wayside hotel, which was shown to us, with the proprietress in the front yard. The place derives its name from the fact that thirty-five or more years ago was wit nessed a desperate contest between white emi grants and settlers and Indians in the valleys, or river "sinks," of Reese River country, which OVER THE RANGE. 15 gave the name "Battle Mountains" to the gen eral range south of this town. And now, as we speed onward at the rate of twenty -five or more miles per hour, I peer backward, and, far as the taxed vision can stretch, I see the arid plains still, mapping a great territory, never seeming to diminish nor vary in feature, sagebrush and sand, with occasional green spots, where cattle gather, well appreciating the dwarfed herbage on these pleasant places of this dull, desolate, sage-ridden land. My fancy wings it self with thoughts of the early travelers to the Western slope. How many times they crossed the winding Humboldt! How wearily, yet patiently, they must have breathed the hot air and alkaline dust of this trackless, treeless wil derness! Or, if its broad, flat bosom rested neath a mantle of snow when they were wend ing their way to the Western Mecca of their hopes, how irksome to the eye, how discourag ing to the anxious heart, the outlook of their cherished plans! Ere approaching Argenta, I remark herds of healthy-looking stock calmly browsing along the banks of a refreshing stream, but looking as tired of the " still solitudes of the desert " as ourselves. Argenta (silver) is a small spot not worthy of note beyond the fact that, after cross ing the Humboldt River, it ushers us into the 16 SNAP NOTES. Valley of the Palisades, a strange uprising of rocky formation on both sides of the railroad, with a swiftly-coursing creek on the south side. After emerging from the canon and indulging in more desert land we touch Carlin, an impor tant town of many thousand inhabitants. It is here that the Mary s Creek joins the oft- mentioned Humboldt. A brief pause, and we again bowl along towards Elko, the cattle- shipping point of the plains, whence the herds of stock are forwarded eastward. Passing sev eral small stations we come upon Halleck, which embraces four houses on the south side of the railroad track, and Uncle Dan Murphy s large dwelling standing alone on the north side, as isolated of cheerful surroundings as is a man s life in the midst of a divided household. It is now late; we close our windows. Mr. Ma- lone has remained in our drawing room con versing, but, midnight approaching, he and Martin have taken leave, and we retire, weary and heavy eyed. CHAPTER II. FROM OGDEN EAST OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. August 19, Wednesday. WE were awakened this morning at half past six, at Ogden, and found breakfast waiting for us in the hotel. Mr. Malone is with us until his train starts, when we part, to con tinue the journey by the Denver and Rio Grande, over Burlington route, he pursuing his course by Central road, via Cheyenne, etc. We leave Ogden, the great railroad center, about half past eight o clock. We are now eight hundred and thirty-three miles from San Francisco. The Weber River runs to the right of the road going- east and the great craggy range of the Wasatch Mountains stands out on the left. At Ogden, in Weber County, Utah, four different railroad lines meet. The valley leading to the Jordan is a generous-sized plain under cultivation, and nearing Salt Lake City is refreshingly green and beautiful, with the bosky, bleak mountains towering cloudward to the east. Wood s Cross- 2 (17) 18 SNAP NOTES. ing and other Mormon hamlets scatter along until we reach the prophet s town, a large, flat city, with long, tree-lined, shady streets, a busy population, evidences of industry on all sides, the general air of the place having an inviting charm, indescribable in such brief notice. The houses are built principally of brick. It is the largest city I have seen since leaving San Fran cisco. Arriving here at 9:45 o clock A. M., we are bounding through the valley, Avith its soft carpet of green alfalfa and other rich grasses, squares of grain fields lately cut, corn just in tassel, in abundance, and everything speaking with a voice of plenty. I should judge the climate to be unexcelled, out of California, of course. The rugged Wasatch Range, on our left, as we steam through, is as absolutely picturesque as the high mountains of Italy, of which we read, and deserves to be entitled the American Alps. At present these mountains are in places covered with a white limestone resembling snow, and are wildly grand beyond powers of my un- traveled mind to pen paint. I marvel if human feet have ever traversed their rocky, craggy, eerie heights. The valley throughout shows the happy results of irrigation, as the sage brush flats, by its magical means, have been metamorphosed into flourishing, healthy-look ing pastures of sweet, waving grasses. OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 19 After another treat to gray sage in the Jordan Narrows, we come into Lelii, at eleven o clock, a pretty little place within shadow of the range, on Utah Lake, an elongated body of fresh water to the south of the valley. The Utah Sugar Company are here erecting extensive buildings in the interests of their business. The valley resembles that of Salt Lake, and the towns merge into each other, the next being American Fork, situated on Deer Creek, near Mount Aspinwall, whose altitude of eleven thousand and eleven feet casts a lengthened shadow. The silver ribbon, Utah Lake, still stretches its thirty miles of weary length along the southern line of the pleasant vale within half a mile of our train. Pro vo, on the east bank of the lake is noteworthy for its fine woolen mills; the buildings, of stone, four stories high, attract attention. Here we alight from the cars and take our luncheon at the hotel, where we have an excellent meal, resuming our places on the train at twelve o clock. In another few minutes we pass Springville, thence through a fruit and garden country as beautiful and fertile as human heart could desire, the effect of industry and irrigation. Utah Lake is still vis ible. Spanish Fork, on river of the same name, is surrounded by orchards and ornamental trees, with thriving vegetable gardens in abun- 20 SNAP NOTES. dance. Here Martin took a "special" photo graph, a reversed observatory, minus telescope lens, and even window glass. Careering on ward we enter Spanish Fork Canon, the great gorge of the Wasatch, and come upon the Castilla Hot Springs, where hundreds of peo ple are rusticating, presenting an enchanting scene as they saunter forth to meet our train, gayly singing or chatting, decked out in green garlands and bright flowers. Right here we are overtaken by a rainstorm, that pelts down as mercilessly as any boasted California winter showers. Next comes in sight Red Narrows, a strange construction of abrupt declivities, rocky, yet covered with a verdant growth, which betimes disappears, leaving the crags as bald and des titute of vegetation as the worn crest of Ben Nevis, but brilliant in color of crimson chrome and other mineral elements. A laugh ing- stream flows at the base of the cliffs, skirted by willow and shrubs, fragrant and sweet. We stop here but a few minutes, then steam on ward, passing Junction a few hundred yards further, the rain continuing until we get through the canon. We find the " Gates Ajar" of Castle Rock, and enter. The Castle rocks are of lava precipitation, as though thrown up by volcanic eruption, ;md present an imposing spectacle, OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 21 resembling the picturesque beauty of Old World ruined castles and feudal ramparts in their beetling strength. After leaving the cliffy gorge behind us, we enter upon a particularly lime country, where kilns formed like immense beehives diversify the scenery of limerock hills covered with undersized pine trees. Especially interesting are the seams in the hillsides of variegated stone that project in tireless rows, like even sets of teeth or columns of books. About two o clock we halt at Clear Creek to water the engine. Crossing the Divide, near Summit or Soldiers Station, elevation seven thousand four hundred and sixty-five feet, we strike the snowsheds. Pleasant Valley Junc tion, the next station, is another dreary spot backed by barren uplands or hills, that do not even afford an imposing appearance. Pleasant here is a misnomer. "Castle Gate," the great opening to the Mor mon country from the East, is a novel and mysterious creation of rock into castle-like battlements of Titanic strength and magnifi cence, and what powerful "bulwarks to the nation" they would prove in warfare, since they solemnly withstand without injury the continuously attacking elements! Wonderful scenery, marvelous handicraft of a powerful Creator ! WAP NOTES. Price, altitude five thousand five hundred and forty-seven feet, is pleasantly located in sight of the fortlike buttes towards the west, where the strangely-formed city, abounding in prodigious buildings of nature s own construc tion, looms up. We are here informed that we shall be delayed three hours on account of landslides on the track a couple of miles far ther. Obliged to accept the situation grace fully, we conclude to walk around, and are soon informed that we may be forced to re main all night and take dinner in this less than one-horse town, which we do about six o clock, in a small Mormon hotel. We were waited upon by a saucy piece of humanity, who belongs, I doubt not, to the prophet s creed ; and if ever she becomes "sealed" to one of the elders, the elder will be the first to wish the seal broken. The dining room is filled with flies, hungry as ourselves. The improvista meal is uninviting, and wholly unappetitious, but the sound fun adduced from the occasion repaid for the need of strong stomachs. I presented Maud with a souvenir spoon of the memorable place, to be had at but one Price, selected one for myself as a r/m>mo forthe meal as we paid triple value for the latter, and I conclude that Price is properly named. Martin is amusing himself with the kodak, OVKR THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 23 seeing which a woman emerges from a wretched-looking dwelling and eagerly asks, " Takin picters?" " Our artist," not being cer tain of success, modestly stammers an answer in the affirmative, and the simple creature in stantly starts for her house, immediately re turning with an infant, which she wished to have photographed. Martin was caught, but gracefully acceded to her request, and kindly kodaked the little Mormon, whereupon she anxiously asked if she might see the " likeness," and, " How much is the pay?" He explained the impracticability of the former, and gener ously waived all claim to the latter, cheerfully assuring the poor woman that when he succeeded in perfecting the little beauty s picture he would send it to her. She congratulated him upon the pleasure of having taken the virgin photo of the small stranger, and, in her delight, they forgot all about names, addresses, etc., so the doting mother will long wait for the "picter" of her darling, that can never come. After eight hours delay they told us the sand drift had been removed, and we could gladly continue our journey. We retired, and soon the city of several hundred Mormons and three Gentiles was far behind. During the night we traveled rapidly, and, fortunately, crossed the pathless tracks of the Colorado Desert 24 SNAP NOTES. without knowing it, and this, Thursday morn ing, we awake to find ourselves in Colorado, August 20, with small chances for breakfast- The first station I note is De Beque, a small settlement on the sand flat through which the railway runs. We observe the river flowing parallel with the railroad, a large, wildly tur bulent, muddy stream. The scenery is tame and uninteresting hereabout, except for pecul iar bluffs of clay studded with rock that rise on either side in somewhat fantastic formation. The diminutive hamlets dotting the route are unworthy of comment, save for their lonely locations. Again, alfalfa-clad meadows please the eye for a long stretch, to Rifle, a railroad village of no significance, and on until the oft- repeated scene becomes tiresome. At ten o clock we stop at Newcastle for water. It is a hamlet, built between craggy mountains, steep and rugged, garnished only with wild, strag gling, stunted pines. Bowling along through the rocky canon we come upon Glenwood and (llenwood Springs, most romantically situated on the banks of the royal Grand, a dark, strong, shallow stream, at times suggesting the Rus sian River, of Sonoma County, California, so familiar to us all. The scenery is here wild and primeval, at times weird, but always picturesque. The cliffs rise from the river OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 25 bed hundreds of feet heavenward, are covered with loose rock kept from shifting into the river by dwarfed pines and roots of other stunted trees. The walls of bare brown rock at times surprise and fill the soul with awe and wonder. The Glen wood Springs are the resort for Eastern people who spend the summer here; particularly is it a Mecca for consumptives. Many of their tents and cabins are scattered along the railroad line, suggesting the comfort here found by these elsewhere hopeless inva lids. It is a lovely, lonely spot. The hotel, of brown Colorado stone, is a grand structure, and the pretty lakelet and sparkling fountain most charmingly cheery and inviting. The country hereabouts is indeed mountainous, looking tumbled and disordered. Hastening onward, we pass through three tunnels, and now the rocky walls take a shelving character, and rise in strength and effect until one ceases to marvel at their towering heights, and we real ize at last that we are indeed in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. Here I am particularly surprised at the massive grandeur of the gorge, wholly unlike anything yet seen. We emerge into a broader vale, through the center, tracing the same yellow stream coursing on ward through the canon. The near mountains, 26 SWAP NOTES. in their red cinnabar skin, have a magnetic attraction for me. It is now half past eleven, yet we have not broken fast, and all are begin ning to sympathize in the hunger of the ill- fated Donner party of 1846. Having spanned some distance, and reached more sage land, I note the mountains lowering in stature, and soft, fleecy clouds hang in the sky, screening us from the garish glare of piercing sunlight. A post marked "Eagle" calls my attention, and, glancing out, I mark the green bit of landscape lit up by the crystal glitter of the stream. Giving our thirsty engine a drink, we cross the river and leave it in the distance. The con ductor informs me that the ravine from the above-mentioned post is called Eagle River Valley. The views along the banks and rock towers are similar to those of the Rio Grande. My companions and self are on the platform enjoying the "sights" that are seen and car ried away like dissolving views. We reach the Rio Grande Hotel at one o clock r. M., and have a good, comfortable breakfast and lunch combined. Girls wait upon us, in a polite manner, and are neat as rosebuds. Picturesque log cabins for consumptives dot the banks of the stream and railroad line again, looking cozy and comfortable, so peculiarly adapted as buildings to this wild region. The mountains OVER TUP: DENVER AND RfO GRANDE. 27 to their dizzy peaks are densely clothed with fir and pine, scant of foliage, and showing signs in many places of having been visited at a re cent date by fire. Panda, another diminutive sign, passes us on to a small tunnel, which wafts my thoughts back to San Rafael. A quiet, charming little fertile valley runs north from this spot, which is lost to the eye in the dark some depths of the rugged Rockies. Wild flowers cheer the wayside with their bright presence, and are like the low, soft voices of cherished friends calling us down from con templation of those tremendous boulders and bluffs that have been holding our hearts in awe and admiration. Along here we enter a tunnel so many feet in length that it takes four minutes to pass through; then comes Tennessee Pass tunnel, which is noted by Mrs. Murphy as I slept, the drowsy influence having possessed me for the first time. I awake with a chill, and, noting the altitude, am physically aware that the raw air is due to the uiimelted snow on the sculptur esque chain of the Rockies surrounding us, the first snow we have seen. A small hamlet, Bar- netts, rapidly followed by Riverside, and we glide through pleasant plains, with the Denver and Rio Grande Narrow Gauge on our left. The rocks are less precipitous and imposing. 28 Before us spread vast fields of potatoes and grain, with a clear, limpid stream flowing through them. In one field hay cutting had begun. The country now resembles California, since crossing the range. The tortuous Mar shall Pass is entrancing in its fear-inspiring grandeur. At 5:30 p. M. we are brought into Salida, and dinner announced, of which we partake con gusto. "Monte Christo Hotel" be longs to the Rio Grande Company, and the meal was the best we have had since leaving California, even before "the buffet went on with Malone," at Ogden. Walking around for a few minutes, Maud and I swell our spoon collection, and all re- enter the train, after a last glance at the Swiss style and setting of the hotel in the midst of created beauty. We hear a puff and a screech and away we go, leaving Salida, on the Arkan sas, beautifully embedded in leafy solitudes. My girl cousins and self are seated upon the platform and steps to view the country, and I note Texas Creek as one of the stations. We are speeding, they say, at the rate of twenty-five miles per hour, and almost repeating the "scen ery of the Rio Grande in Texas Creek Canon. We arrive at a place lettered "SALOON," what ever that meam, six miles from the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas, which we are anxiously, wait- OVER THE DENVER AND RIO GRANDE. 29 ing to behold. The sable wings of night are silently folding, yet we hope to view the gorge- like storied " Melrose " by moonlight. The river is on our right, \\nld and wide, seething, tumbling over broken rocks, with fantastic shadows lurking o er its troubled bosom, whilst it roars in hollow tones to the echo of the wind ing abyssmal chasm. Canon City, a prettily- set place of several thousand inhabitants, on the Arkansas, backed by mountains, is happily a breathing-place after the suppressed emotion inspired by the most sublimely grand vista in the scenic history of wonderful Colorado. The magnificent bluffs of the Royal Gorge loom sky ward three thousand feet, some of them over hanging the train, rendering the wild landscape charmingly fascinating in its awful danger. Silence falls upon the trio; awe is expressed in every feature; and I lookup with a sense of devotion, picturing the sky reaching down to kiss the ambitious brows of the lofty cliffs, leaving breath thereon in form of curling clouds. These almost star-high reaching ram parts of God s solid masonry climb higher and higher, each more imposing in imperial su premacy than the last, on either side of the passageway through which the river and our iron horse race. As we, in tremorous fear, continue to gaze 30 SNAP NOTES. upward, in all the dignity of silence, at God s matchless work, the night clouds lower, but an other bend in the high-walled canon shows the moon bursting in brilliant effulgence of shim mering silver upon the sinuous river, over which is flung, in clearly mirrored outlines, branches and limbs of poplar, willow, and cot- tonwood, making a weird picture for black and white effect. We enter the drawing room, and I sit by the window watching all the moon reveals. I pleasurably note the rippling, dimpling, purl ing river running beside us, then curving away to hide amid trees and shrubbery, the moon rays glittering upon its bosom, and casting smiling beams upon rock and tree and stream alike, yet received differently by each. Mr. and Mrs. C., of Philadelphia, are spending the evening with us, in our drawing room. At nine o clock p. M. we draw up at Pueblo, an important city, on the Arkansas River also, receiving its name from the fact that it re mains on the site of an old Mexican pueblo, which means town. The tourist, from the train, observes for the most prominent feature an elegant hotel of stone, built at enormous cost, standing at the depot, presenting a sub stantial appearance. At one gable end is a tall tower, embracing a clock. The street cars OVER THE DENVER AND RlO GRANDE. 31 run over an elevated bridge spanning the rail road near the hotel and adding to its business effect. The location of the city, in the heart of such a rich State, with so many natural advantages, cannot fail to speed its rapid prog ress towards becoming the " leading manufac turing center between the Missouri River and Pacific Coast." Gliding slowly on, the dark, deep waters of the river course through the city, and the number of railroad tracks prove the importance of Pueblo s position as a com mercial mart. Scudding away we come to Colorado Springs, a healthful, fashionable, and .romantic resort. Our Philadelphia acquaint ances leave us here, and I peer out for a view of the surroundings, but, like the Garden of the Gods, which misty half-light prevented a view of, now this lovely spot too is obscured, yet I succeed in catching a glimpse of a Monte Christan scene on the mountain ledge west of the town, where electric lights play fantastic pranks with stray moonbeams. They tell me it is Colorado Springs Hotel, a beautiful and popular resort, It is now 11:30 o clock p. M. We are heading for Denver, and are about to retire, to allow weary nature her just repose. CHAPTER III. FEOM DENVER TO DETROIT. August 21, Friday. T^TJE were called early this morning, as our train steamed into Denver, and, rising immediately, dressed quickly, leaving our Pull man sleeper, "Estrella," with fond farewell and mental gratitude for its very comfortable con veyance of us so far. We take a carriage and drive to the "Windsor," a fine house, conducted on the English plan, have breakfast, and come to our rooms to prepare for an outing. The morning is lovely, balmy, and fresh, the air keen and invigorating. We boarded the cable car, and rode the length of Larimer Street and back, took transfers to Sixteenth Street, the most superb and interesting thoroughfare in Denver, walled on both sides with immense stone and brick business buildings, and farther out residences of wealthy people fill the sight, green lawns and pretty gardens please, and everything presents a heavy, massive appear ance, owing, I suppose, to the stone, to which J (32) FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 33 am, as a California!!, unaccustomed, it began raining soon after we started out, and has con tinued all day. Returning for our lunch, and to write some letters and telegrams, at three o clock we ordered a carriage and drove all around the phenomenal city, of over one hun dred thousand inhabitants, thence up "Castle Hill," where everything to be shown we saw. The residences and homes of merchants, bank ers, cattle kings and mine owners, ex-governors, senators, and other noted individuals, are re markably elegant. The house of Senator Tabor is a superb structure, and that of Mr. Porter, the greatest cattle king of Colorado, is the finest in the city, the interior decorations alone having cost a comfortable fortune. The stone State house, uncompleted, is being erected, at a cost of $3,000,000, and promises to be supe rior to any public building in the great West. In driving about we pass by the St. Mary s Academy for young ladies, conducted by the Sisters of Loretta, a large, commodious brick building. We make some purchases, com memorative of our visit, and return to the Windsor. Dine at six, and at half past eight take the train for Omaha, en route for Chicago. Mrs. Murphy secured the "Garda" on the vestibule sleeper of the Burlington route, and we are again very comfortably situated, and 3 34 SNAP NOTES. happy as heretofore. The prime adventure of the drawing room was experienced by Mrs. Murphy, but her own diary must furnish the details. After we retired, I experienced ex treme cold, and remembered, with a longing heart, my sealskin coat, over a thousand miles away. With the first streaks of dawn we were aroused for breakfast, and partook of it in the " diner," reaching Holdridge during the meal. We are now traveling over Nebraska, a thrifty- looking and productive country, under culti vation as far as the eye is unforbidden by dis tance to go. Axtell, Heartwell, and other small, unimportant places are rapidly viewed as we steam through a fine farming and graz ing territory. The air is chilly, but the day is bright and sunny. Upon Hearing Hastings I inquire about the Platte River. A gentleman furnishes the infor mation that it is farther south, on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe route, whereat I am dis appointed, being deprived of going over part of the pioneers trail, of which I have so often heard my dear ones speak. The broad fields are teeming "rich with golden grain." Farm houses, environed by orchards and small flower gardens and vegetable plots, dot the vast ex panse, relieving the eye of grain and corn views. At Fairmount we lunch in dining; car FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 35 "Lincoln," and enjoy both the occasion and repast. Nothing noteworthy in sight. The towns resemble California rural districts ; the houses are all built of wood, like ours, and the fencing is all wire. Stock appear in limited number, but look fat and well. These vast plains, flat as a slate, replete with the result of farmers industry and pluck, were like the Nevada sweep of sage land when our sturdy pioneers of 44 wended their way westward. The majority of those pioneers have passed to their last resting station, after having sur mounted the wearisome mountains of life s difficulties, and patiently trod the monotonous plains of existence, meekly obedient to the will of our Heavenly Father, and gratefully responsive when his voice summoned their tired feet to rest and their wandering hearts home, and these prairies are ateem with the result of work and wealth. At Lincoln, Neb., we halted about two o clock, and had twenty- five minutes to walk around. Cousin Maud, as usual, made a raid on the fruit man, and, to our surprise, was informed that miserable pears were four for twenty-five cents, whereas in Cal ifornia we would fling the same kind of fruit away. Think of selling a half-spoiled pear for six and one-fourth cents, bananas (half black and all soft) four for a quarter, and five peaches 36 SNAP NOTES. at the same rate. Verily, one must travel to learn the value of what we depreciate, even scorn, at home. If this is not the " corn-cracker State," it ought to be, we see such profusions of it growing, and what we had at table was excel lent. Ashland is green and pretty; the pastures feed fine cattle, and the vernal spring of our peerless State is not more beautiful than the country I here behold. We cross a broad, sandy-bottomed river, which just above us is spanned by a long bridge, and its low banks are self-edged with trees and undergrowth. Upon consulting my map I find that it is the oft- heard-of Platte. The gentleman who blighted my hopes as to its location was wrong. Nu merous herds of contented cattle are scattered over the verdant fiat, presenting a happy picture. The country of the Platte is indeed "green fields and pastures new." How my heart yearns for the impossible privilege of convers ing upon these scenes with my late father, and comparing notes with his experiences! The hay, I notice, is stacked in small pineapple shape, and looks odd to Californians. Our matron has amused herself playing Solitaire nearly all day a la Mr. Ballou, of Mark Twain s sagebrush days. Cousin Evie has slept most of the time, in an easy posture, FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 37 which I am sure she enjoys. Cousin Maude talked, read "Lost in New York," bought fruit, and performed her ablutions about every half hour in hopes of transferring as little real estate as possible from Nebraska. I snapped off these straggling notes, and watched the scenery. At half past three in the afternoon we heard "Omaha!" called, and 1 strained my eyes to obtain a full view of the city, and Council Bluffs, with its world of memories to the pioneers. Our stay of half an hour s duration was employed by our party in walking around, viewing the surroundings for mental storing, eating popcorn Maud s treat, of course and talking over our experiences thus far. At 4: 15 o clock we respond to the order, "All aboard!" and are soon steaming rapidly along the banks of the Missouri, on the western border of the State of Iowa. The vicinity is the scene so cherished by our pioneers, whence they date the beginning of their westward pil grimage, " Crossing the Missouri River at Coun-cil Bluffs on the 3d of May, 1844," etc., and now my memory, charged with long recit als of their vicissitudes, is overpowered by a sea of emotion, and I cannot restrain the tears that well up, to the sweet relief of my heart. Have just passed by Plattsmouth Station, and a few minutes brings us to the lengthy bridge 38 BtfAP NOTES. across the Missouri s broad bosom, which bridge, I am told, is half a mile long. As I gaze back upon the scene, it is one of interest and beauty, the valley thickly set with natural trees and trailing brush, the waters of the wide river gleaming through them like flecks of silver, in the rich flush of the setting sun. The meadow lands are flourishing and freshly springlike, dotted with cattle, lazy and fat. Pacific Junc tion is the first station that delays us a length of time. It is here the trains for the Pacific meet, from Missouri and the East The next cozy hamlet is Glenwood, a sweet little place, full of romantic situations. Creston, a larger town, was gained about 8:30 p. M., and is brightly attractive at night in the garish glare of gas and electric lights. We retire, weary indeed, and, after broken snatches of sleep, unrefreshing, to say the least, are aroused at 7 o clock A. M., Sunday, August 23, to dress for breakfast, in the expectation of reaching Chicago on time. The suburbs of the metropolis, as we approach, are alluring in their peace-filled beauty and restfulness, but I am eager to enter "the Windy City," and can only glance at these introductory charms to it. At 8 o clock we reach the depot, secure a conveyance, and are rattled through the sloppy streets to the "Auditorium," an elegant hotel overlooking FROM DENY EH TO DETROIT, 39 Lake Michigan. The building is ten stories high, with a tower ten tiers higher, from which a bird s-eye view of the whole city may be obtained. The view from our window, in the seventh story, is truly interesting. The great blue lake stretches its heaving bosom of sixty miles before my unaccustomed vision, and its majestic length of three hundred and fifty miles sweeps beyond sight. As I stand by the window, viewing with curiosity and wonder the largest lake it has been my fortune to see, I note the steamboats plying to and fro over its rippling surface, landing passengers almost "within a stone s throw" of our location, then the ten railroad tracks parallel with the sweep of green swards seamed with paths, and next the clean, broad, smooth boulevard called Michigan Av enue. After refreshing our appearances, a most necessary and satisfactory obligation, we de scend to our dinner in the French restaurant, ^on the first floor, the hotel being one of those conducted on the European plan. After din ner, procuring a carriage with "a character" for a coachman, we drive to the parks, World s Fair grounds, via the cleanly boulevard, which our driver innocently styles "the bully-yard." Like Denver s soft treat, it began raining soon after we started out and has kopt continually 40 SXAI* NOTES. pouring; twice we sought shelter in stables awaiting the abatement of the rainstorm. The park has some excellent specimens of landscape gardening, particularly noticeable a " World s Fair Globe" surmounting a green knoll, the water being represented in Echeverias Metalica and the continents by the red Coleus. Probably the novel arrangement, measuring several feet in diameter, has been constructed of wire filled in with earth, the plants sown on the outside, the whole being ingeniously designed. Re turning we seek the seclusion which our boudoirs grant, and soon retire to sleep soundly. Monday, August 24. After our matin meal, Martin, Maud, and myself go out shopping, and to see the city that pork and pluck have made famous. We see none of the former. Mrs. Murphy is quite ill, so we do not remain away longer than to pur chase a few souvenirs, beautiful spoons being our most valuable collection. During the after noon I remain with Mrs. M., while my cousins go out and around, and in the evening to the theater. I decline attending amusements with them during my season of wearing mourning, and retire at midnight to enjoy balmy sleep. Tuesday, August 25. Rose this morning at seven o clock, break- FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 41 fasted at ten, thereafter packed our trunks for Boston. I wrote letters to some friends in New England, acquainting them with the likeli hood of my presence in the vicinity of their abiding places. Mrs. Murphy went with me to Father D. J. Riordan s residence, whose address had been kindly furnished me by His Grace Archbishop Riordan prior to my departure from California. With a stubborn coachman and limited time we are deprived of seeing other friends and the pleasure of visiting the cathedral built by the late Bishop Thomas Foley, which I was desir ous of inspecting. We return to dine at the hotel and prepare for the train, which leaves at 3:10 i. M., and we are "on time" at the busy depot, of which w r e take farewell without re gret. Now, at 3:30 o clock, we are flying on the wings of steam along the shore of the beautiful blue lake, leaving the tall buildings of the phoenix-like city in the distance, getting glimpses of small towns along the route, but moving too rapidly to be able to read the names on the stations. At 5: 10 we rush into Michigan City, in the "Hoosier" State, Indiana. Have remarked the forests of small trees grow ing thickly, and meadow lands whence timber has been removed look rich and thrifty under cultivation, but, like similar spots in California 42 SNAP NOTES. have many tree stumps ungrubbed in their midst. Michigan City is a large, enterprising place, with a generous supply of natural trees and tall church spires. I recognize the Catholic edifice, with its gilded cross surmounting the tower. We now occupy the drawing rooms of the "Tidal Wave" coach, of Michigan Central. The almost dense forests of young growth ob scure the view on either side of the railroad, and the country, Michigan, we are traversing is full of health -giving properties and extensive agricultural advantages. Timber resembling our lofty redwood attracts my fancy, but I be lieve it is a species of fir. A little station is marked A very s, in the heart of enviable sur roundings as far as created beauty goes, thence another forest, followed by homes of farmers snug in sweet content, with orchards fruit laden and graceful corn fields. We have just been regaled by sight of a lovely, grassy-edged lake, whose breast palpitates beneath a fragrant load of water lilies, lazy and lolling as those of the Nile, but we are swept onward ere the vision is fully satisfied. At 5:45 we "slow up" at Niles, on the banks of the St. Josephs River, a ro mantic looking stream, and are delayed a few minutes. A boy opens our drawing room un ceremoniously, and presents each lady with an FROM DENVER TO DETROIT. 43 exquisite little bouquet, "Compliments of Chief Engineer s Office, Niagara Falls Route," of Michigan Central. WelHaunched on the "Tidal Wave," skim ming over the southern portion of the State, I mark verdurous forest and grove and silvery streams peeping through the bushes, then "run ning away," as though affrighted by the snort of the iron steed, as he madly dashes past. Fo- liaged trees again over numberless acres. Verily Michigan is a richly wooded State. Having coursed over a fine country, we reach Ostemo at 6:55, a small place of no particular distinction, and, darkness suddenly wafting downwards, our gas is lit, and we shall soon pardon me for using a nautical phrase "turn in." About seven o clock we enter Kalamazoo, a city I have often heard of. A church is promi nent near the railroad track. Its two very lofty spires, with plain Roman crosses, show up conspicuously as we approach. The city is large and flourishing, with an outlook of as sured prosperity. The river and its bridge are valuable adjuncts to its features. Continuing onward we sight Jackson, another large, im portant city, and then Ann Arbor, patronized by Californians for the college of law it main tains. Nearing Detroit, our higgligehad to be 44 SNAP NOTES. checked or marked before crossing the river into Ontario, Canada, across which we must run to Niagara. At ten o clock p. M. we steam away from Ypsilanti to the Detroit. We reach Detroit City late, and I am suggesting to Mrs. Murphy to "stop off" here for the night and obtain a view of the city, call upon Bishop John Foley, and resume our journey to-morrow evening, but she thinks otherwise, so we retire to rest, which we all need, and the confusion and noise crossing the river is anything but conducive to peaceful slumber. CHAPTER IV. A VISIT TO NIAGARA. August 6, Wednesday. A T seven o clock we are called up at Falls -*- View to see Niagara. The vast sweep of waters to the falls is to me more surprising than the falls themselves, inasmuch as I had never seen pictures of them from the point whence we now inspect them, and they do not impress me with their enormity. In a few minutes we cross the great Cantilever Bridge, nine hundred and ten feet long, and are at Niagara, We register at the Cataract House for the day, taking an early breakfast, then secure a three-seated conveyance, and ride to the different points of interest. Driving over a common rough country road of some dis tance, the first scene visited is Whirlpool Rapids, where we pause, overawed at the grand spec tacle, the fierce, wild, angry -looking waters rushing madly downwards, throwing up foam in feathery flecks as it dashes over the crags that form the rude bed of the river. The force (45) 46 SNAP NOTES. of the water flow here is tremendous, yet it must be borne in mind that the supply, from four great lakes, compressed in the width of three hundred feet, rushes frantically onward at the rate, I believe, of twenty-seven miles an hour. We had our photographs taken at this place. I ordered mine to be sent home, that the loved ones may see how I am enjoying the, to me, new wonders of God s footstool. Ascending the bank by the ingeniously-constructed ele vator, we purchase some souvenirs, arraquettes, etc., etc., and drive to the great whirlpool, which is four hundred feet deep, and a marvel in itself. The swirling green waters make one dizzy to watch and wonder at. It was here that Captain Webb was last seen alive, and it is here that so many have attempted the dan gerous feat of swimming across. Six men and one woman have succeeded, wearing cork jackets, and one in a lifeboat, the daring female performing the feat in a barrel. The day is beautiful, sunny, and warm in truth, the brightest we have had since leaving Nevada. AVandering around I stray toward the stairway above the great whirlpool, and the outlet, and count sixteen hundred and sixteen steps, weari some to look at, and a task of importance to double. The view from a pathway on the hill side, suggesting fearful power, is occasion for A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 47 reflection on my o\vii nothingness, and from this sublime scene my thoughts go back to history, to the humble Jesuit missionary of the Indians, Fr. Hennepin, whose features were the first belonging to white man reflected in these turbulent waters, as far back as 1678. Entering another bazaar to inspect curios, of which there is an infinity, we select a few, and, taking our carriage again, return to the Cataract Hotel, two miles distant, for our lunch. The property in the vicinity of the whirlpool, on the American side, belongs to the De Veaux Military Academy, which solemn-looking stone structure, covered with ivy, we pass on our way from the bazaar. Niagara City boasts a popu lation of seven thousand, but I have remarked very few fine-looking homes, and the houses are mostly scattering and poor. The only im pressions, of course, are effected by the river and falls. The city, from my humble idea of progress, is far behind the age, considering that trains enter it every half hour, bearing excursionists by the hundred, who fill the streets, marching along with lunch baskets, but are lost amid the great wonders, to reap pear when their trains return. The beauti fully located city grows slowly. Finding that it is only eleven o clock, we con clude to cross the new suspension bridge (one 48 SNAP NOTES. thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet long), "designed for foot passengers and carriages," and enter Canada, to view magnificent Niagara from the heights above Victoria Park. Reaching the Canadian shore, we pass the "Clifton House," a beautiful hotel, with broad porches garnished with vines, palms, and potted plants, and drive through Queen Victoria s Park, a fine lawn- covered sunny slope, whence we view in silence the great world wonder of American scenery. The day is lovely indeed, and everything con ducive to the fullest enjoyment of the mar velous grandeur of the scene. We spin along the ridge to "Clark s Burning Springs," a mys tery in themselves. Entering the observatory building, we are conducted to a semi-dark room. From the center of the floor projects a pipe about two and a half feet high, connected with the Burn ing Spring below, and to the top of this pipe the attendant touched a lighting match, when the gas instantly burst into a soft blaze, and to it he applied a piece of newspaper, which ignited, yet the heat was not so intense that the hand could not be passed rapidly through it without burning. The keeper gave us each a drink of the water from the mineral spring connected with it. Upon asking for a result of the analysis, we were informed that it con- A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 40 tains principally sulphur, iron, and magnesia, and my own imagination supplied stale eggs. The burning springs were discovered over a century ago, by Indians building a camp fire, and it is said that they were quickly dispersed by fright when the gas ignited and remained burning, they deeming the place haunted by evil spirits. For a great number of years the story was known only by tradition, and the spot lost sight of, until located by the present managers. Ascending to the observatory sur mounting the building, I looked long and interestedly at the Niagara lake or river as it appears sullenly in the distance above the falls, the water flowing smooth and glossy in the shining sunlight, but becoming rough and foamy as it approaches the vast chasm, pre cipitating itself one hundred and sixty-four feet, making its fall resound to a great distance. The Iroquois language is indeed concise, for its simple word "Niagara" expresses "mighty, wonderful, thundering water." My attention, riveted in devout admiration and amazement, cannot be directed elsewhere. Turn as I may, the eye of interest reverts to the fleecy, misty, soft, eternal flow of the magnificent waters. Up on the Ontario commons stands an impos ing gray stone convent, but I could not learn what order of nuns conducts it. 4 .~>0 SNAP NOTES. Ere descending from the observatory I kiss my hand to Canada, because it held the early married lives of my dear parents, and, next to California, had sweetest memories and most interest for them. As \ve recross the bridge, the little steamer Maid of the Mist is making her pleasure trips between the American and Canadian landings, and, under the spray and rainbow tinting, looks phantom-like and lovely. Prospect Park, on American side, is smaller than Victoria, but wooded and beautiful. On our way back to the hotel is shown the vessel in which the Amazon made the swim of the whirl pool. It is a long barrel, smaller at one end, with opening in the side. Reaching the "Cata ract" we lunch at noon, after which Mrs. Murphy retires to her room, and we, the rest of the sight-seers, walk up to the "Cave of the Winds." I am troubled with a cold, and can not descend, but the others do, and present a most comical appearance "rigged out" in the oil clothing furnished by the keepers. Those desirous of making the descent, upon payment of twenty-five cents each are conducted to a dressing room, where every article of clothing is exchanged for those of oil. A tin box is also furnished, into which are placed the coin, jewelry, and other valuables, and its num bered key is hung around the neck of the A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 51 owner, while the box is stored in the safe of the office. Equipped for the dangerous ex periment, the comical brigade present them selves at the head of the slippery steps, and are immediately taken in charge by guides, who convey them to the cave under the Great Fall. The sensation was certainly novel. The super intendent awarded them certificates for having succeeded in making the thrilling plunge to the cave. During their stay below I wandered around alone, visiting Luna Island and other pretty points of richly wooded grounds, strolled along the path in the woods, where numberless tour ists were enjoying the day, back to the foot bridge across the cataracts to the town, through which I leisurely sauntered, making a few pur chases, thence to the hotel, and, gaining our boudoir, enjoyed a rest until nearly train-time. Summoning a servant, Mrs. Murphy ordered a carriage for our conveyance to the depot, which we reached at 5:30 o clock p. M., where we took the New York Central train for Buffalo, but, unfortunately, boarded a local, and came near missing it, bag and baggage. Our through tickets are not recognized on the local, and we are obliged to purchase tickets to Buffalo. The car is very much crowded, and the accommo dations inferior. From Niagara to Lockport 52 SNAP NOTES. is a sea of orchards as we run across the State of New York. I take particular notice of the country on ac count of its distance from California, until we swing into Buffalo. Upon reaching the city of Mr. Cleveland s early political triumphs our party is thrown into dire confusion by the con ductor s order that " all passengers must leave the train; it goes no further." Picture our dis may, and you will pardon our sympathy with Mark Twain s party lost in the snow, whose deathbed resolutions went for nought, for here we are, among strangers, not destined for Buf falo, but Boston. We look at each other re proachfully. Who is to blame? Martin is treated to a hasty "round up" by his mother for not having obtained the required information re specting the trains. Evie is diligently plying the question, "Where am I going? " to which repeated query the conductor impatiently re plies, " How do I know? " Mrs. M. is collecting valises, hand bags, etc., and trying to convey them all at once from the car. In the crowd Maud has disappeared, and I am looking on, waiting for the reunion, for verily I say unto you, the California party has stampeded. Fi nally, with the dispersing of the throng of pas sengers, Maud is recovered, Mrs. Murphy has been relieved of the "grip sacks-," Evie has dis- A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 53 covered her latitude, for Martin has adjusted mat ters by having our tickets examined, resulting in the knowledge gained that the through train will arrive in a few minutes, so our spirits are again serene. I marvel at the fine city, having often heard my father speak of Buffalo as little more than a trading post in the days of the Murphy exodus from Canada. It now stretches along the Niagara River and is a great, popu lous city, of much importance and wealth. I remark the cathedral, I suppose, with three domes or towers topped with crosses, on our left. We take the sleeper of the Wagner vesti bule, and are now, at 7 o clock, slowly leaving Buffalo in the background, and again the sim ple charms of country life and well-tilled lands greet the vision. After leaving Buffalo I eagerly caught a hurried glimpse of the placid waters of Lake Erie, to the southeast of us, and its little steam ers plying their calling over its shining tide. I revive my earliest recollections of history, and recall Perry s victory with a feeling of rapture. How much more would we all enjoy this trip were any one of us posted on the names and histories of the places we see. Perhaps the scenes of cruel battles during our lamentable rebellion are skipped by as unnoticed as a stray house or a watering tank, whereas devout 54 SNAP NOTES. interest in our land would attract attention to the spot were it known, and a pious thought and prayer might he entertained for the mem ory of those who wore so bravely the " blue and the gray." The country is so freshly green. When do they have summer, dry and parched, in the East? In the gloaming we enter Bata- via, 011 a river running southward. It is pret tily located, and a neat parterre, artistically de signed, marks the station, the word " Batavi a " being imbedded in the lawn in white stone, which is unique and pretty. Batavia is a pre tentious-looking town, with a well-filled ceme tery, bordering on the railroad line. About half past eight o clock we "pull in " to Rochester for supper, where my companions alight, but I feel too fatigued and prefer resting to eating. Glancing out I regret that darkness intervenes and prevents observation of a city 1 would like to see. Retired at eleven o clock very travel tired. We occupied berths on the train in the general passenger car for the first time, and found it very inconvenient, not being accus tomed to it. The upper berth is particularly low on these Boston and Albany cars, hence unpleasant for those in the lower couches. It would have been comfortable enough, however, had we not known "better days" in the draw ing rooms of the Pullman and other wheeled palaces. A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 55 n/, Avcpuxt 27. I awoke early, and, peeping out, as we stopped I read " Pittsfield," and knew I was in Massa chusetts. Passing onward readied Westfield, thence Springfield, where we had our breakfast, warm and palatably served. Springfield is a beautiful city on the Connecticut River, which runs directly through it. After ten minutes delay for the meal we are again swiftly spinning by small stations, hamlets, and important cities on our course to Boston. Massachusetts looks much like verduous Iowa and Michigan, but .s o rocky f The gray stone croppings recall places in California through northern Sonoma. The grass is emerald in hue, but the soil is not at all rich looking; the tree foliage and shrub bery are unfamiliar to me, yet pretty. I ex pected to see every house east of the Rockies built of stone or brick, and only found them to great extent in Denver as yet, also Chicago, which city is never a laggard in the march of improvement and progress. We have just gained, with a short stop, Palmer, a conspicuous and not unimportant city. A mile or two further east, as I glance to our right, or south of the train, I mentally photo graph a valley that is decidedly Californian in character, particularly Marin County, and, as 1 am so distant from the golden slope, I may 56 SNAP KOTES. be pardoned for loving the State which repro duces some of the well-known features of my own. AVest Warden is beautifully set between laughing streams that break and ripple over rocks, chattering in innocent noise like a bevy of merry children as they run. It has been raining since we left Springfield. No wonder that the grass is green and soft, under so much moisture. We glide by Brookfield with only time to glance at it and admire its velvety covering of beauteous lawns and shining rills and lakelets, many of them surfaced with blooming white water lilies. There are many people on the train bound for Boston who seem to have been somew r here West. Small stations, such as South Spencer, are seen and gone, barely giving time to snatch the name on memory s tablet. I can understand how easily the waters of these many streams were utilized for millwork before steam came into common use. Many mill dams suggest it. They are very picturesque. The only near hills I have seen are the Berkshire, in tins State, and they resemble our own. Rochdale, on a pretty creek or, maybe, river, is a small town with few houses. The stone fences are like those in Sonoma, on the road to Napa. About nine o clock we reach Worcester, a city of considerable importance, with large fac- A VISIT TO NIAGARA. 57 tory interests and business buildings. The depot is an extensive affair, and the large two- steepled Catholic Church of the Jesuits, on the hill, is a prominent ornament to the town, and handsome monument to the energy and zeal of the order. Worcester is the birthplace of our noble old American historian, Bancroft, I turn my attention back to a knoll surrounded by greenswards and scattering ornamental trees, upon which stands a long gray stone building, resembling our Napa Insane Asylum. It is handsomely located, and an imposing struc ture.* *I have since been told that it T the Worcester In sane Asvlum. CHAPTER Y. THE (5JTY OF BOSTON. are nearing Boston, the baggage check- man having arrived on the scene to re lieve us of the responsibility of our baggage. I learn that it is an hour s ride from Worcester to Boston. As we approach the "Athens of America," we pass near Lake Cohitchuate, which supplies the metropolis with Avater, a placid sheet \vith many small craft floating on its glassy surface. About ten o clock we find ourselves in the "city of culture," when a cab manager at once calls a carriage for our use, adjusts the price, and gives the order to the "Hotel \ r endome," thus preventing confusion to strangers or anxiety about luggage. The "Vendome," on Commonwealth Avenue, fac ing part of The Commons, is a very elegant white marble building, about six stories high, and covering the major part of a square The views are delightful from every side, the Charles River being one of them. It is raining here, and anything but warm, "as we knoAV it." Re- THE CITY OF BOSTON. 59 freshing ourselves, we take lunch (the hotel is not on the European plan), and then order a carriage for a drive to Bunker Hill Monument, which we enjoy to the fullest. Mrs. Murphy remained in the office, selecting souvenir spoons, specimens of which she presented to each of us, and the rest of the party climbed to the summit of the tower, two hundred and ninety-four steps, and were well wearied with the unusual exercise. We walked around, read the inscriptions on the slabs that mark the walls of the old redoubt and Prescott s statue, all of which were exceedingly interest ing and historical. Reentering our carriage, we drive around the strangely-planned city, which is more in tricate than we could have imagined. We call at a dry goods store, and are conveyed to its upper stories by an elevator. The sellers of goods are all women and young girls, the lat ter being the noisiest and most "slangy" lot I ever listened to. A longer jaunt around town, and finally home, where I found a friend s note and card awaiting me. AVe dined at 6:30 p. M. in a spacious, well-filled dining hall, and the meal was elegantly served and most inviting. The waiters throughout the hotel are of the dark race, and they know their business perfectly. My companions all at- 60 SNAP NOTES. tended the Globe Theater, and, with a friend, I walked to the Charles River Bridge, made famous by Longfellow s song, "The Bridge," and we stood there for a few minutes watching the tide and the "tall church towers." It was very beautiful, the waters sparkling under a thousand lights, the mist overhanging the quiet city rendering the sky-piercing spires phantom-like and stately. The theater party returned at half past ten. Friday, August ,-?<9. I arose, donned my attire early, and wrote several letters. My friend Dr. F., of Worcester, kindly sent a message to the effect that he would come around between eight and nine to take us to Cambridge. He was on time, but, as my cousins had not yet appeared, I accepted his invitation to visit the Notre Dame Convent, of which my California Alma Mater is a branch, to meet his sister, also to see the Cathedral of Holy Cross, Immaculate Conception Church of the Jesuits, who also own and conduct Boston College, adjoining the edifice. It rained in cessantly. I have learned how to use an um brella since leaving California. The rain be coming stormy, we called a cab, and comfortably drove about to the places of interest, the State House, with its gilded dome, Boston Commons, THE CITY OF BOSTON. 61 the city gardens, new public library, built of white stone, patterned in the Greek style, after the Library of Athens, the Harvard Prepara tory Medical School, Academy of Arts and Sciences, Old South Church, moved and changed. I enjoyed this sight-seeing thoroughly. The Notre Dame Sisters were very familiar. Sr. Bernardine, the reverend mother of the convent, is a lovely lady, of superior character and ex cellent address. She made many inquiries re specting our San Jose college, and evinced a gratifying interest in California. "To a way farer in a strange land nothing is so sweet as to hear his name on the tongue of a friend," remarks the sage Egyptian in " Ben Hur," and I may add that it is equally as cheering to hear the dear names of our loved ones mentioned by strangers, as I experienced when Sister Ber nardine asked if I knew Sister Anna Raphael, my beloved cousin and former teacher, and her sister, Miss Marcella Fitzgerald, than whom I have not a more valued friend in California, and so I felt the sweet thrill in my heart as happily as though the names were my own. Returning to the hotel about eleven o clock, finding the other members prepared, Dr. F. offered to conduct our party of five across the Charles River, over the bridge immortalized by America s poet laureate, to "Cambridge, the 62 SXAP NOTES. classic," and I do not recall having ever en joyed a day more replete with pleasure. Our guide, a graduate of Harvard, and later of a Vienna medical college, left no effort un tried to render the occasion enjoyable, and his exertions were indeed appreciated by my friends and self with truly California!! enthusiasm. He presented his fellow student and friend, Dr. Barnes, a worthy practitioner of Cambridge, who at once joined us, and accompanied us to the home of Longfellow, which we inspected with almost reverence. The mansion is now in possession of the poet s daughter, who at present is away from home, and the hospitable housekeeper extended the honors. The doctor led the way to the study of the author of "Hia watha," and showed all the articles of interest therein. Taking advantage of the privilege I sat in the prettily-carved heavy chestnutwood easy chair, made from the tree under which stood the " Village Blacksmith s " shop, and presented to the poet by the children of Cambridge, men tioned in the poem, together with a small water- color picture of tree and shop. I was given his pen to handle, and, with indescribable emotion, and wishing for a single thought worthy of the master mind that had swayed this weapon "mightier than the sword," I tremblingly THE CITY OF BOSTON. 63 wrote a line suggestive of the occasion in my autograph book. The writing desk and table remain as Mr. Longfellow left it, and are likely to be guarded from the curious as long as the vigilant housekeeper continues in charge. A painting of the poet, by his son Ernest, stands on an easel near the table. The work is infe rior, and the portrait poor. Books lie around in artistic disorder, and the room is as pretty as it is interesting. Across the hall we were shown into the Washington room, where our first president made his headquarter s comfort able, as general of the American Army. In the absence of the family we deemed further inspection intrusive, and took our departure, filled with a happy memory. As we passed out, we noticed the Charles River gleaming beyond, and remembered that it was a favorite theme of the poet s, and his verses welled up into expres sion, which we quoted, closing the gate, and threw back a kiss to the dear old home of our favorite. Following up the avenue we came to Elmwood, the Lowell homestead, where most of the poet s papers were written. Strange, I had a letter of introduction to James Russell Lowell, but he sickened and died the week be fore I arrived. Retracing our path, Drs F. and B. took us to Harvard University, all through which we THE UNIVERSITY 64 SNAP NOTES. were shown, the different buildings, and the museum, a most complete and beautifully ap pointed institution. California is here promi nently represented by an enormous octopus, extending across the ceiling of an extensive exhibition room. The gymnasium, refectory, and theater, memorial hall, and other excellent departments, were most interesting. Next we were conveyed to the old elm, under whose shade Washington received command of the army, July 3, 1775, and which still throws its cloak of green over those standing anear, who read the lines upon the granite that prove how much respect to it is due. A T andalism is ob viated by plates of tin fastened over the scars made by iconoclastic hands. A shower of leaves fell around me as I paused beside the iron railing encircling the venerated tree, and I caught some of them as souvenirs of the hon ored place. As it has continually showered throughout our peregrinations in Cambridge, I find the "rainy day" of Longfellow most life like, for With each gust the dead leaves fall, And the day is dark and cold and dreary." The vines are clinging everywhere, and how smooth and regular is their clustering wilder ness of beauty We contemplate a stroll or drive through Mt. Auburn Cemetery, the AVest- THE CITY OF BOSTON. 65 minster of America, but the rain, the incessant rain, drives us back, so we reluctantly return to Boston, leaving for another day Auburn s storied dead. Now our program calls for a thorough inspection of Boston, and how I will enjoy this sight-seeing in the old historic city ! I like it best of anything I have seen outside of California, the dear old State, which, "taken all in all, we ne er shall see" her "like again." Entering the stately Vendome in a most for lorn and bedraggled condition, we hasten to our apartments to make preparations for din ner, which we expect to enjoy, the "inner man" having been neglected during our loiter in Cambridge. After dinner my friend returned to Worcester. Saturday, August 29. This morning s sunny hours were spent down town shopping, among the queerly crooked streets. The day has been charmingly bright, and everything conducive to enjoyment of the outing. We bought souvenirs and other nick- nacks perhaps I ought to designate them as " Yankee notions." Noontide found us lunching, and later, ac companied by Dr. F., we inspected the Mu seum of Arts and Sciences, where two hours were instructively spent. How T wish I could 66 SNAP NOTES. remember all I saw in this treasure-filled mu seum of art ! Thence our escort guided us to the North or Christ Church, from whose tall " belfry arch " gleamed the lanterns of Paul Revere in 1775, a beacon warning to the people of Charlestown of the march of the British soldiery from town, " down to their boats on the shore." If memory were lax in retaining the impressions of his tory, the immortal measure of Longfellow, familiar to every schoolchild, would supply the mental vision with a poetic picture of this ride. "Through all our history, to the last, In the hour of darkness, and peril, and need, The people will waken and listen to hear The hurrying hoof beats of that steed, And the midnight message of Paul Revere." Mrs. Murphy presented me with " The Mid night Ride" souvenir orange spoon, a beauti fully etched representation of the hero wildly riding to "spread the alarm." Near by is " Old Copp s Hill Burial Ground," and thither we wended our meanderings, and had no occasion to regret an introduction to Mr. Edward McDonald, the intelligent superin tendent, who has diligently searched the ar chives for history of the place and every tomb in the cemetery, and has compiled the result of his labor in neat book form. THE CITY OF BOSTON. 67 On Copp s Hill, where we stand, "Generals Burgoyne and Clinton watched the battle on Bunker Hill, and directed thebattery." Within shadow of the hill stands Boston s oldest homestead, and Christ Church, erected in 1723, is said to be the oldest but one public building in Boston. " The prayer books and communion silver, given by George II., in 1733, are now in use." The church also contains a bust of Washington, which was the first ever made of the "Father of his country." The chime of bells, conveyed from England, is the most ancient chime in America, dated 1744. One of the oldest gravestones in this ceme tery is dated 1661, and I remarked that the slabs are of slate, the first I have seen. The inscriptions are cut into the stone, in primitive lettering. The tombstone said to be the oldest in New England, according to Mr. McDonald s pamphlet, is here, erected to the memory of Grace Berry, who died in Plymouth, in 1625. When Copp s Hill was opened first as a burial ground, her remains were interred herein, in the year 1659. Among the most interesting inscriptions I read, the one over the grave of Cotton Mather attracted my particular atten tion, and I freely transcribe the wording to my notebook : 68 SWAP NOTES. "The Reverend Doctors, Increase, Cotton, & Samuel Mather were interred in this vault. Tis the tomb of oar Father s Mather Crocker s I. Died Augt. 27th, 1723, se 84. C. Died Feb. 13th, 1727, le Go. S. Died June 27th, 1785, a> 79." We were shown where stood a large willow tree, planted in the Ellis plot in 1844, which was a cutting from the tree over Napoleon s grave at St. Helena. The grave of Amos Lincoln was pointed out, with the information that he was one of the many young colonists who overthrew the cargo of tea in Boston Har bor, and afterwards married a daughter of Paul Revere. I copied the following epitaph, which for peculiarity struck my fancy: "In memory of Mary Huntley Who departed this life Sep. 28th, 1798, in the 64th year of her age. " Stop here, my friend, and cast an eye. As you are now, so once was I; As I am now, so you must be. Prepare for death and follow me." A wag, upon perusing the warning, added: "To follow you I m not content, Unless I know which way you went." THE CITY OF BOSTON. 69 From the historic spot, filled with the "silent majority " of Puritan heroes, we were guided to Faneuil Hall, with its big "gold" grass hopper vane. The dear old building has been devoted to the uses of a market, but, were speech possible, what stories it could tell hot headed debate and earnest appeal, warm ap plause and final triumph. The edifice (for is it not dedicated to our country, which claims us, after God?) remains about as when the colo nists met herein and read the immortal Decla ration which proclaimed them free and inde pendent people. Everything suggestive of the Revolutionary days is held in almost sacred re spect in Boston, and Faneuil Hall building, used as a market place, is not, indeed, in depre ciation of its historic character, but to check the corroding influence of idleness, time s wearying enemy. Strolling onward we reached Granary Ceme tery, wherein are interred the remains of John Hancock, the fearless signer, with other wit nesses of the Declaration, Benjamin Franklin and Paul Revere. Every name inscribed on the bronze gate "cometh up as a flower" from the ground of early learned history lessons, and pondering over the dust these sacred precincts inclose is a source of novel interest to me, time having exorcised the dormitory of endless sleep of the spirit of melancholy. 70 SNAP NOTES. The little short street, or court, where Daniel Webster and Rufus Choate were wont to walk together for hours and discuss the important affairs of State, was attractive indeed, and I was shown the hotel wherein the two statesmen dropped ever and anon to moisten their throats, seared by dry subjects. This hotel, by the way, was rendered famous by the facetious remark of Artemus Ward in loquaciously locating Har vard University on its third floor (and the lawn facing the Conservatory of Music), it being a resort for the "students on a lark." Wending homeward, or, rather, hotelward, we bent our course to the Charles River, took a long look at the dark waters, rippling and shimmering in the different electric and gas lights in lengthened brilliancy. Reaching the Vendome, we dined, and did justice to the repast, after which my compan ions attended the theater, the doctor spent his evening with a medical friend, and I repaired to my room to write home and prepare for rest. Sunday, August SO. We arose early to take a trip planned by Dr. F. to Gloucester and Salem, to meet Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes, and my heart bounded with delight in anticipation of the great pleasure in store for us, but THE CITY OF BOSTON. 71 " Pleasures are as poppies spread ; Pull the flower and the bloom is shed." The merciless rain persistently imprisoned us within doors, and my hopes vanished like "chaff before the wind." We attended mass at the cathedral and Church of the Immaculate Conception, then visited Boston College. We were shown all through the institution, and then drove home, not, however, without being allowed the won derful privilege of a peep at John L. Sullivan s saloon. Well, we wrote letters all day, entertained each other as well as the dark day allowed, and during the afternoon I went out walking with a friend, who conducted me to Boston Harbor, whereat arose visions of the active "tea party." Vessels bound for New York and other places were quietly lying at the wharf, and the city was peculiarly noiseless. This is my first ex perience of a Puritan Sabbath. Even the tink ling bells on the horses of street cars were re moved, lest they sound too gay and loud for the standard solemnity of Sunday. The rain abating we wandered along Beacon Street Hill, where my companion called my attention to the colonial style of building, and the ancient green glass window panes. Through Dr. Holmes "Long Walk" of the 72 SNAP NOTES. Commons we returned to the hotel. Throwing off my wraps I found my feet damp, the only Uncomfortable result of my jaunt, After din ner our self-kindly-appointed escort returned to his home, and we late birds retired at two o clock A. M. Monday, August 31. We remained within doors to-day, having nothing particular to do, yet we cannot leave here until to-morrow night, as accommodations on the steamer Plymouth, via "the Sound," can only be afforded us then. We were exceedingly late for breakfast, having arisen at nearly noon tide, so were served in the small dining hall without regard to the menu. This afternoon I visited friends in Worcester, and was shown the beauties of that city, the park Lake Quin- sigamund, the summer resort of the Chautau- quan Association, and upon whose waters the Harvard boys practice the graceful, manly art of rowing, when preparing for a contest, also the home and birthplace of Bancroft, the great historian, and other points of interest. We returned on the evening train, and all retired about midnight, my cousins having been to the theater. September 1. During the fresh, rosy hours of the morning THE CITY OF BOSTON. 73 we remained at home and wrote our letters. During the afternoon we went for a walk through the crooked, magnetic thoroughfares, and Mrs. Murphy bought a lot of Boston tea to take home with her, to dispense to her guests of the sewing circle, when recounting her pere grinations through the esthetic city of learning. We made some purchases, souvenirs of New England, and over the soft, green carpet of the storied Commons returned to our temporary quarters, noting on our way the glistening frog pond and historic elm that witnessed the per secution of witches, and other uncanny ceremo nies of the very early Puritan days, all speak ing of an anxious past linked strongly to the peace-crowned present. We visited the church of Rev. Phillips Brooks, which, I am told, lias the finest and one of the best-appointed church organs in America, the second finest being in the Taber nacle at Salt Lake City. Towards evening our trunks were packed for New York, and we prepared for traveling. We left the beautiful "Vendome" for the Old Colony Railroad Office, and took the Fall River line for Gotham. We entered the pal ace car " Lilac " at seven o clock, and soon were whirling away from Boston. I left the beauti ful city I have learned to love, for its classic 74 SNAP NOTES associations and historcial interest, with regret, as some of the most instructive moments of my life have just been experienced here Viewing the quiet, homelike mansions of the great and grand Cambridge, where stalwart minds have worked and rested, was a pleasure to be enjoyed by me but once in life, and I earnestly wish I could repeat it. We arrived at Fall River at 8:30, and boarded the Plymouth, a perfect little floating palace, exquisitely ornamented interiorly, and illuminated by myriads of electric jets. The furniture throughout is handsome. " The Lowell String Band," of ten pieces, discourses music for the delectation of the passengers. We are an hour late in starting, it being now ten o clock, whereas we should have been steam ing up the river at nine. The call, "All ashore who are going ashore," must be a signal that we soon shall start. The music continues; at times the strains are most excruciating. How keen must have been the torture of the witches, if these musicians are the descendants of the old colonists! At 10:20 we start. We retire at eleven. Our staterooms are neat, convenient, and com fortable. CHAPTER VI. GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. Wednesday, September 2. WE appear in sight of New York City early and come out to take a look at Long Island Sound, and, later, our destination, un der low-hanging masses of fog. The first build ing "greeting our coming" is an immense in sane asylum, and on our left, farther on is Black well s Island, with its gray stone prisons and glistening cannon. As we approach I ob serve hundreds of women of the Island Re formatory, wearing large straw hats, in ranks, walking around enjoying the morning air and sunshine. We pass under Brooklyn Bridge at nine o clock, having sped past the I uritan, com ing up the Sound, although she left Boston two hours ahead of us. We were conducted to a carriage by the por ter, and were soon "in line" trying to make way to the Fifth Avenue Hotel. The streets were dense with vehicles of every known de scription, rendering progress difficult. How- (75) 76 SNAP NOTES. ever, at last we registered at the Fifth Avenue, and upon reaching our rooms our California mail was sent to us, and with indescribable avidity I devoured the contents of four letters from home, the first missives I have had from the loved ones, with whom it seems an age since I parted. I answered all, and wrote a note to a friend in Baltimore, informing him of our ar rival in New York, and likelihood of reaching " Maryland, my Maryland " within a few weeks. We then waited for our trunks, that never came until evening. Mrs. B. I). Murphy went out for a walk, to look for her old home, and familiar objects in its vicinity. With Martin she drove to the Bank of Donahue, Kelly & Co., to present her letters of credit. In her absence Mr. Malone called, and kindly offered to be of use, knowing our inexperience in traveling, and possible in convenience we might encounter in a strange city. We dined in our parlor and the rest of the party attended the Lyceum Theater, returning about midnight, when we retired. I had de voted the hours of their absence to reading, and endeavoring to decipher the stenography of this crude diary. September 3. With the first smile of dawn came up Mr. GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 77 Shriver s card. As I hud arisen, and was ready for breakfast, I went down to meet him. He had received my note of the day previous, and, traveling at night, had reached New York City about six this morning. He gave us a cordial welcome to the East, which warm greet ing was succeeded by a friendly offer of him self as escort for the day. After chatting awhile we were joined by my cousins, and all breakfasted, and went immediately to do some shopping, Mr. S. acting as guide. Gorham s elegant display of silverware was supervised, and from the rich assortment of unique designs Mrs. M. selected several dozen exquisitely wrought souvenir spoons, together with rare bits of art, things "of beauty," that cannot fail to be " a joy forever" to those fortunate enough to possess them through the little lady s gen erosity of heart and purse. We thoroughly enjoyed Tiffany s Art Rooms, and wished we could spend a week among the bric-a-brac alone. Next dry goods houses were visited, and wherever shopping was to be done, until, tired and weary, we returned to lunch. Then Mr. S. took Mrs. M. and myself on the elevated railroad to Benziger Bros., away down town. I bought some souvenirs for friends, and Mrs. Murphy made her usual liberal pur chases. Mr. 8. showed me the " little church 78 SNAP NOTES. round the corner," which edifice I was anxious to look at, and many other places of interest claimed my attention when pointed out by one so intelligently capable of instructing the un informed. I came back pleased with our out ing. Mr. S. invited us to attend the fireworks on Weehawken Heights, Hoboken, New Jersey, but Martin had tickets for the theater. We dined at 7:30, arid Mrs. Murphy spent the evening with her uncle, Mr. Green, Mr. S. accompanying her thither, the trio, Martin, Maud, and Evie, attending the theater. I read, and wrote my letters, until the return of my friends. I do not like the climate of New York at this season ; it is unpleasant, the air being moist, and the heat oppressive. September 4. "Up with the lark," and prepared for the day, arranged my trunk, and chased time until eleven o clock, when the rest of the party were ready. Mr. Eugene Kelly called on Mrs. Mur phy, and took Martin down town. After break fast Mr. Shriver appeared in time to accompany us to Lord & Taylor s, the suit house. Procur ing a conveyance suitable for the occasion, he drove us through Central Park, a ride I was most desirous of taking, to see the oft-heard-of GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 79 public breathing-place of America s greatest city. I always speak for myself and may say here that I am delighted with what I see about me in this beautiful sylvan retreat, with the pleasant outing and the agreeable company. Upon our return our escort guided us on the elevated railroad to the Battery, and up the Produce Exchange Building to the tower, two hundred and forty feet high, fourteen stories, whence we obtained an excellent view of the city Castle Garden almost under us, Gover nor s Island just beyond, where General Hancock was stationed some years before his death, Bed- loe s Island, with the "Liberty" statue, Brook lyn Bridge. East River, the Hudson. Staten Island, the Narrows, or Gate, Perth-Amboy be yond Staten Island, all delineated so perfectly and charmingly as to be a picture in the gallery of memory forever. Although enchanted with the scene and occasion, after an hour s contem plation of the busy city under us, we descended and were shown Wall Street, where fabulous fortunes have been made and lost within a day. It is a narrow highway, of a few blocks, stretch ing towards East River, and but for its name would never arrest attention. We stood at the entrance of Trinity Church, almost classic in its ancient dignity, then sauntered leisurely to the building containing the offices of Jay Gould, 80 SNAP NOTES. .Russell Sage, and other notable personages of the metropolis; and, indeed, many other sights claimed us, which my wearv head cannot re call. Taking the cars, we returned to the hotel very tired. Shortly thereafter Mr. S. intro duced his sister, Mrs. T. J. Myer, and her two daughters, of Maryland, to our party, who are en route for home, from a visit to Boston, Ded- ham, and, later, Newport. Mrs. Myer is a rather tall, stout lady, with comely features, kindly expression, and dignified mien. Gently welcoming our " California delegation " East, she warmly and hospitably invited us to visit her home in Maryland, all of which I appre ciate, being a stranger in a strange place. After dinner Mr. Sh river took us all to Wee- hawken Heights, on the Jersey side of the Hud son, the vicinity being the scene, if I mistake not, of the Hamilton-Burr duel now called Hoboken. The little five-minute trip across the river is peculiarly pleasing, the many gas, electric, and other lights illuminating the rip pling waters, and the colored lights of the vessels giving life and beauty to the strange, sparkling scene. We were conveyed to the amphitheater, and there witnessed the El Dorado extravaganza of King Solomon, which was elegantly presented, GLIMPSES OF NEW YORK CITY. 81 with seven hundred persons participating at once. The rich dresses, graceful posing, and agreeable singing were most enchanting, and altogether the play was entirely distinct from anything I have ever witnessed. The arena was arranged in the opon air, on the Heights, the sky forming the canopy, and when the walls of Jerusalem were burned, the smoke ascended, circulated in the air, and disappeared into space as naturally and gracefully as possible. We next attended the fireworks, then sat and listened to the concert, at which Mr. Levy, the cornetist, was to have played, but he failing to appear we returned to the ferry, and home. There were eleven in the party, and we enjoyed the unique evening s entertainment very much, with the cool dews of night glistening over our raiment in the radiance of a thousand lights. Saturday, September 5, We were up and about at eight o clock. After breakfast our escort conducted us to the Hoffman House, to see the works of art displayed in the salon "Satyr, and the Nymphs" of Bougereau, a "St. John in the Wilderness "(?) by Correggio, a fine piece of work representing Port Marseilles, valued at $25,000, some chaste statuary, and other articles of vertu. He then suggested a look at the 82 SNAP NOTES. Eden Musee, where are to be seen the wax works after the house of Madame Tussaud in London, the royal heads of Europe, a bevy of Confederate and Federal soldiers of the late war, prominent musicians, actors, and actresses, great men of the day, etc. Below we enter the "Chamber of Horrors." Here most heart- thrilling scenes are depicted to the life. Why is Millet s " Angelus" presented in wax in the Chamber of Horrors? "The Guillotine," "Eyraud," the brutal murderer of Gouffe, "Judith and Holofernes," "Charlotte Corday," " The Lion s Bride/ "Execution by Electricity," are all appropriately in place representing horror, but why "The Angelus"? A funny incident happened as we were pass ing from one hall to the next. The word "paint" in large letters was attached to the back of a bench, and a gentleman had just arisen from the seat and was seriously contem plating the damage wrought on his new stylish trousers by the contact. The expression of regret was so apparent on his countenance that we pitied his misfortune, until Evie exclaimed: The goose! Couldn t he see paint big enough to warn him, if he didn t smell it?" "A light breaks in upon our brain" the immobility of the figure suggested that it was wax. We felt foolish, but enjoyed the amusing occurrence to its fullest. GLIM PS LS OF NEW YOItK CITY. 83 The art gallery of the Musee is full of treas ures, and well worth a visit, but time is flying, and we must leave these truly realistic scenes for our own active ones of life. I accompanied Mrs. Murphy on another shopping tour, and when we returned to the hotel, at six o clock p. M., we Avere very tired, faint, and hungry. I feel the depressing effects of the climate, possibly the result on a consti tution unused to close, moist, oppressive heat. The Baltimore party left for home on the three o clock train, having called to say adios dur ing our absence. The trio went to the theater in the evening. Mrs. M. arranged her pur chases, packed them into trunks for home go ing, and about eleven o clock we gladly wel comed "nature s sweet restorer." Was some what homesick this afternoon and telegraphed to my sisters at the dear old home, the like of which I have not yet seen. Sunday, September 6. I was prepared and ready for church at 8:30; the rest of the company appeared at nine, when we breakfasted and attended the Jesuits Church of St. Francis Xavier at half past eleven. We called at the Academy of the Sacred Heart, where Mrs. Murphy had studied in her girl hood, and felt inclined to review the earlier 84 SNAP NOTES. scenes supplied by faithful memory. Intro ducing ourselves as Califomians, always a talis- manic title in the East, we were gently invited within, and entertained by a sweet-faced, an gelic-mannered lady in the garb of the order. After many inquiries about our happy land, she softly asked if any of us knew of Kern County, in California. I responded in the af firmative, whereupon she questioned me about a nephew from whom she had not heard for a year or more, and about him she was very anx ious. Mentioning his name, I was surprised to learn that the young man was one who had brought me letters of introduction from Vir ginia, and had visited my home just two weeks prior to my departure on this trip. It was with strange pleasure that I afforded the good lady the information she sought. The coin cidence was a peculiar one. Madame O R. was clever and kind, but with this new friend we soon had to part, to return to lunch. Although it was raining, and close, yet we took a carriage drive to Brooklyn, over the famous bridge. We counted forty churches in sight and about concluded that "of a verity" Brooklyn is the "city of churches." While driving all through Greenwood Cem etery, the day merged into a beautiful after noon, with occasional showers. Here the rich 0/ 1 tftiW YOItK VWY. and the great are interred, it appeared a vast park, with beautiful driveways, ponds, trees, shrubbery, lawns, and endless varieties of flow ers, James Gordon Bennett s plot is remark able for an elegant piece of pure white Italian marble, sculptured by a master hand, represent ing a woman in the attitude of prayer, whose vesture s folds stand out in broad relief as though fluttered by a passing zephyr. The tomb of the Stewarts and other men of wealth are to be seen without introduction. We were shown the grave and monument of Charlotte Canda,aged seven teen, who was thrown from her carriage and killed when going to attend a party given in honor of her birthday. The monu ment is a beautifully chiseled marble in form of a shrine inclosing the figure of a sweet vir ginal girl, suggestive of our " Lady of Lourdes," so prettily carved and chaste looking in its graceful robes folded softly around her standing form. Many, many elegant mausoleums called attention by the superiority of their artistic worth, but could not be mentioned in a hasty notebook like this. Recrossing the bridge, which alone is a new sensation to us, we reached the Fifth Avenue Hotel, and dined at seven, after having spent a delightful afternoon. Mrs. Murphy and Martin went out early in M SNAP NOTES, the evening for her " Uncle Green," The eneiv vating effects of the sultry climate have pros trated Evie; she could not accompany us to Brooklyn, and has been ill nearly all day. Mr. Green returned with Mrs. M. and spent the evening with us. He is a very nice old gentle man, and an interesting, well-informed talker. Possessing an artist soul he is by profession a sculptor, and I enjoyed conversing with him. September 7. This morning I received letters from home. How happy it makes me to hear from there ! Later we repeated a shopping tour, then re turned to luncheon, expecting Mr. Kelly, who invited Mrs. M. for a drive through the park. This being Labor day, many of the stores wore closed, a miserable demonstration and proces sion showing slightly how the occasion is hon ored. The day is bright, but again sultry. Mr. Kelly did not appear. September 8. I was up with the dawn, and partook of our matin meal at eleven. Spent the morning in the stores with Mrs. Murphy, and the afternoon down town with Maud and Evalyn, a new ex perience for us. I am getting tired of New York, and would like a lungful of good, light. O O c"> GLIMPSES OF NKW YORK CITY. 8? fresh air. I foci very weak after my jaunt around town. The god of sleep offers particu larly acceptable charms, and I resign myself to blissful slumber, while the rest attend the theater. CHAPTER VII. A TRIP UP THE HUDSON. September 9. A DMISSION day of California ! This morn- -*- ing we took tire steamer Albany for a trip up the Hudson, to Albany, and were nine hours on the water. The views on both sides are as picturesque as some I have seen of the Rhine; the water is as smooth as glass at times, and again in undulating waves sweeps nobly to the sea. I am told the river varies from a mile to two miles in width, and in the bays it is from three to four miles in breadth. It originally had several names, the French calling it "Rio de Montaigne;" the Dutch designated this vast arm of the sea "Mauritius," after the Nassaun Prince Maurice. The Indian names are numer ous and appropriate. "The Hudson" was finally settled as the proper title by the English in honor of Henry Hudson, who was an English man, although under Dutch auspices. He first explored the river from the now metropolis to the capital in 1609. (88) ,i TRIP UP WIN UVIWtff. W Taking our chairs on the deck of the well- appointed steamer, comfortably wrapped, a brisk breeze fanning our faces, God s perfect sunshine smiling on us, the panorama of grandeur un folds before us. On the right, or east bank, the Manhattanville College of the Christian Brothers, and elegant adjoining convent, loom up amid the trees, reposeful in their clustering wood, which "crescents more than half the lawn." Soon follows the home of Audubon, the ornithologist. On the west bank the Pali sades, in their columnar strength, buffet wind and wave for fifteen miles. They are of " ba saltic trap-rock" formation. Next I note the home of James Gordon Bennett, on Washington Heights, where Fort Washington stood when taken by the English in 1770. Fort Lee stands on the western bank. Stewart Castle, 011 the summit of the Heights, is grand and lordly in its position of superiority and elegance. The Palisades continue on the west side, and the end of Manhattan Island is reached as we approach Spuyten Duyval Creek and station. The landscape, including Riverdale, is- a series of pretty scenes, perfect poems of nature. Fort Hill Castle, the former property of Edwin Forest, the tragedian, was purchased for the Convent of Mount St. Vincent, which stately building stands in prominent view near the 00 SWAP MOTES, river s edge, sloping lawns ami tree-girt paths forming a tasteful foreground. Yonkers is next in sight, with its notable feature, the old Phillipse Manor, conspicuous midst the leafy wold. It was built in 1682, and used occasionally by General Washington during the early struggle for independence. Passing Glenwood (this is the third place of the name I have seen since leaving California we are regaled with a lovely view of "Grey- stone," the handsome home of the late Hon. Samuel J. Tilden. Within cool shades of kindly green, uprearing its gray front to the sun, the mansion, characteristic of its late own er s life, is open to inspection, and like him, too, in that it is without flaw. The Palisades rise higher, reaching as they stretch onward over five hundred feet, until the boundary line between New York and New Jersey is gained, when they abruptly cease. Dobb s Ferry is pointed out to me as the place where the intercessors for Major Andre s life met General Greene, "president of the court which condemned him to death." "Sunnyside," the charming cottage of our gentle Irving, embowered in foliage and made up of gable ends," is the most interesting villa in Irvington, "the classic and poetic spot of our countrv." A TRIP UP THE HUDSON. 01 The residence of Jay Gould, on tins old Paulding property, is a castle-like structure, imposingly handsome, yet my interest is more keenly pointed to Tarry town, where rest the remains of Washington Irving, in Sleepy Hol low Churchyard. A simple stone, modestly in scribed, %< Washington Irving, born April 3, 1783, died Nov. 28, 1859," shows the place of his burial. Here, too, near the village Andre was cap tured, and on the spot has been erected a mon ument commemorative of the event. Strange to note that, coincident with the traitor Arnold s death in England, the tree under which Andre was caught was killed by lightning in the second year of this century. The village of Nyack is on our left, or on the west bank, nestling among the hills. Sing- Sing Prison buildings are made of marble, and the town is quite a large, pretty settlement, with pleasant homes and fine residences. The next place of interest is the Croton Works; they supply the metropolis with water, an extensive aqueduct conveying sixty million gallons a day to the Central Park reservoir. A flash of history rushes to memory at sight of Stony Point, whose fort was recaptured by mad Anthony Wayne in Revolutionary days. The banks of the Hudson teem 0* i WAP lore, yet 1 may only note places familiar to my unsophisticated mind through reading, and memory of American history, which is fast fading for lack of review. The ruins of Fort Independence are at Peeks- kill, which also embraces the birthplace and death scene of John Paulding, one of Andre s captors. Near the village is the country seat of the late Henry Ward Beecher. Next 011 the west bank is Captain Kidd s Point. We all know the story of that adven turous mariner and his pirate crew. The crags known as Dunderbergh, described by Irving, are sublimely picturesque, but lacking the "tumbling imps" and malignant spirits who visited dangerous squalls upon the Dutch sea captains that failed in respect to the goblin ruler. West Point commands attention on the bluff overlooking the pacific waters of the Hudson, on our left, and is grandly situated. During the Revolution General Arnold the afterward unhappy traitor, was in command of this strong hold. "History tells the rest." Continuing our "voyage" and admiring the restful look of the beautiful scenery, enraptured with the views, at times reaching sublimity, we come to Newbergh, where the noble old Father of His Country refused the honors of kingship, and afterwards disbanded his arm v. A TRIP UP THE HUDSON 93 At noon we descended to the dining saloon and took lunch. The meal was not what we expected, and was hardly enjoyable, so we again contented ourselves on deck, the cabin being close and "stuffy." Poughkeepsie, beautifully located, is called the "Queen City of the Hudson." It is full of fine residences, and has a large population, who appreciate the patriotic interest which the city enjoys, having held the State Legislature when New York was in possession of the British, in 1777. We pass under Poughkeepsie Bridge, a valuable enterprise which connects the East with the mines of Pennsylvania. Watching forward, without notes for some distance, I rest my thoughts, but I take up the strain as we near the Caatskills the dreamland of poor old Rip Van Winkle, the master char acter of Irving, which will live as long as the Hudson flows. It is not for my feeble pen to attempt a picture of the mountains, it takes an Irving to delineate in golden wording. I am satisfied to gaze upon the woody uplands that kept the admiring attention of our charming writer and historian of the Hudson, until they "melt into hazy distance," and, gazing in en chanted reverie, my heart goes out to poet, artist, sculptor, and actor, for each is keeping vivid the fairy charms depicted of these high lands by the chaste and gentle Irving. 94 SNAP NOTES. The air is so fresh and bracing that one can not remain long under the dreamy influence. There is a station on the east bank called Stuy- vesant, after the old Dutch governor, and some where hereabouts resided Martin Van Buren. The Convent of the Sacred Heart stands high on the western slope, and is an elegant institu tion, conducted by the "Madames " for the higher education of young ladies. The old manor house of the Van Rensselaers still rests on the eastern shore, and is certainly a "relic of antiq uity," for it was built in 1640. Resting my eyes I await the arrival of our steamboat at the capital, which we reach at six o clock one hundred and forty-four miles from New York City, and I m glad to land. A sensational experience awaited us upon leaving the boat. The hotel men were scream ing the names of the houses they represented and pulling passengers every way but the one they wished to go. They kept up the deafening sounds, confusing and unpleasant, until we were safely within a coach. We aimed for the "Delavan," where we registered. After supper we took a carriage for a drive around the city. We were shown the magnifi cent Statehouse, which they tell me has cost seventeen millions already, and when completed will exceed in size the capitol at Washington. A TRIP UP THE HUDSON. 95 It is certainly a noble structure, but as yet un finished. We enjoyed the Washington Driving Park, in which stands a bronze statue of Robert Burns, erected by the Scotch citizens. An artificial lake underlies fine sheltering trees, a shining gem of beauty. Thence the homes of lumber men, bankers, merchants, and business men attracted our attention, as they face the park on Inglewood Place, and are perfect dreams of luxury. I was desirous of seeing some of the old Dutch houses, and saw one of the oldest in Albany. It stands on a corner, a quaint old brick building used as a grocery store, and is marked in large figures 1710. The city is large, wealthy, and influential, and, being New York s capital, how could it be otherwise? Having seen all we could, Mrs. Murphy re mained with me in the hotel, while Martin took Maud and Evie to the theater. They returned about eleven o clock, and we prepared to retrace our trip to New York City via New York and Hudson River Railroad, leaving Albany at 1:30, arriving in New York City at six o clock this morning. It was a pleasant, bright trip. I enjoyed the few hours rest afforded by the cars coming down the east bank of the storied Hud son. CHAPTER VIII. THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE. Thursday, September 10. "IMMEDIATELY upon arriving we retired *~ to our rooms for a rest. We found letters from home and Baltimore. During the day we visite 1 St. Patrick s Cathedral, on Fifth Avenue, a large, grand edifice of white stone, with handsomely carved marble altars. I did not particularly admire the elegant structure, as it appeared to me cold interiorly, and exteri orly seemed to suggest itself a monument to the architect s skill, without the inviting air which calls, " Ye that are weary and heavy laden," etc. The steps leading to the door of the superb edifice are few, which is an advan tage, and the symmetrical harmony of the building is not marred by the peculiar idea of economy which places a hall beneath, to the inconvenience of churchgoers, especially old people whose climbing days are over. T went down town with Mrs. Murphy and to call on FT. Healey, West Fourteenth Street, but (96) THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LO VK. 9? found linn not. Returning to the hotel, we dined late, and Martin took Maud and Evie to the theater. Fr. Healey came to spend the evening. He was a playmate of Mrs. M. s New York child hood, and was pleased to see her. He is a bright, intelligent man, whom I am happy to meet. He kindly invited us to Coney Island to spend a day with his sister and other rela tives, but our arrangements to leave here are almost completed. He contemplates attending the funeral to-morrow of Mrs. Riordan, mother of the late Rev. J. J. Riordan, founder of the Emigrants Home, Castle Garden. September 11. Arose at 8:30 and prepared my baggage for Baltimore ria Philadelphia. After breakfast we took the ferryboat about eleven o clock, crossed the North or Hudson River into New Jersey, and boarded the Pennsylvania train en route for the Quaker City. We soon cross the river over the drawbridge, and stop at Newark, a fine, thriving city, whose birth antedates the Revolution. Then, skim ming omvard, we pass a station marked " Wa- verley." The country looks well for farmingand grazing; the trees are extensively spread but small sized. Elizabeth is the name of another 7 98 SNAP NOTES. station and town. We are rapidly passing many others, but I find it difficult to catch the lettering, the train is speeding so swiftly. Menlo Park is a familiar title, where stands a pretty village with pleasure grounds and drives, natural trees and shrubbery, shady and fresh looking. Gazing about and longing for information, enjoying all I can see, I drop my pencil until coming into Morrisville, Pennsylva nia, after which I note Landreth s Farm and Garden Seed Place, founded in 1780. It is a prosperous appearing, extensive estate. The broad lands of Pennsylvania are excellent for ranching purposes, and there are many richly laden orchards scattered around in sight Germantown Junction is called, and, looking out, I behold smoking chimneys everywhere, and suppose we have entered a manufacturing city of no mean importance. I wonder if my memory is correct in locating this as the place occupied by the British when surprised by Washington in 1777. Leaving the smokestacks of Germantown we cross the river and gain the city of Phila delphia, where thought is lost in the sea of im mense buildings and uniform rows of brick dwellings. We took a room at the Lafayette Hotel for the day, and partook of a midday dinner, TJIE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE. 99 then ordered a carriage and drove around the city, through Fairmount Park, for four hours. The charming drive along the banks of the beautiful Schuylkill was indeed enjoyable, and I took special pleasure in noting the perfect views of varied scenery. We rode over the Centennial Fair Grounds, and noted Memorial Hall, 1876, as the monu ment of that great year, remaining in the park, also the superb fountain erected by the Mary land citizens of Philadelphia, being a gigantic figure of Moses as a centerpiece, standing upon a firm foundation of massive rock. Around this imposing form are the handsome marble full-size statues of Father Matthew, the Apostle of Temperance, Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, the fearless Signer, Most Rev. John Carroll, the first Archbishop of Baltimore, and Com modore John Barry, the illustrious Wexford man, who so ably distinguished himself in the American naval service. Here, also, is a basal tic column from the Giant s Causeway, Ireland, duly inscribed. A large figure of Christopher Columbus also adorns a place in the park, pre sented by the Italian citizens. A fine statue in bronze on a granite pedestal of General Meade is an attractive feature. The house of William Penn was shown us, which we viewed with curiosity and interest. 100 SNAP b OTEti. It is certainly a relic, and well prized by the State bearing the good old Quaker s name. A statue of Jeanne D Arc and a beautiful marble of Niobe are exquisite pieces of art. Boating on the river is a most pleasurable pastime, and I think much time could be happily spent amid these scenes of sylvan beauty. The superb Statehouse, supplanting the historic one which held the cracked bell of liberty for so many years, Wanamaker s stores, and a thousand other objects of note, were seen and talked over by our vigilant little band. At 7:30 p. M. we took the Pennsylvania line for Baltimore, dining on the car, with mirth and jollity for salt and spice. At 9:45 we were ushered into the city of noble Calvert, and were considerably amused when searching for con veyances to the Rennert House. Nothing bet ter than old rattletrap hacks were presented, and finally our party was divided up for occu pancy of two coupes and " rattled o er the stony street," at a "two-forty rate," to our destination. The city seemed perfectly still. Registering at the Rennert, we were assigned to rather pleasant rooms, and retired to rest at midnight. The ominous mosquito bar envelop ing the couches took me back in spirit to Stock ton, California, where Julia Weber one night kept guard over my slumbers lest the "galley THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE. 101 nippers" from the sloughs invade the meshes of the netting and leave me " without eyes," as she quaint!} 7 expressed it. CHAPTER JX. A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. Saturday, September 12. T^ARLY bird and luckless worm, which is --^ which in this instance? I am up and prepared for breakfast, when a friend s card ap pears, so I repair to the parlor to receive Mr. A. K. Shriver, who kindly welcomes us to Bal timore, then telephones to Mr. D. J. Foley and other friends. The rest of the party appearing, we all breakfast together. Mr. Foley is soon presented, and I am cor dially impressed with his genial manner, which proclaims at once friendship s sacred charm of sincerity, in the warmth of his happy greeting. His kind blue eyes recall my good mother s gentle features. My heart quickens at sound of his cheery voice, and his felicitous smile is full of winning trustfulness. Mr. Mark Shriver is next introduced, whom I have mentally photographed as "a man above his kind," a loyal friend, a brave patriot, yet tender hearted as a woman, and I think the picture is true. (102) A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 103 They invite us to go upon the roof of the hotel to obtain a bird s-eye view of the city, which we do, and behold the beauteous broad panorama spread before us. The grand sweep of the " blue Patapsco s billowy waves " sug gests majesty and power, and the rich splendor of the warm September sun heightens and brightens the vivid scene. Old Fort McHenry, directly east of us, is a relic of the War of 1812, as everybody knows who kens of the circum stances of Francis Scott Key producing that deathless song of the nation, the "Star-spangled Banner," and, strange to remark, to-day is the anniversary of the great fight; flags are flying, processions moving, etc., but for a city the place- looks deserted. After calling attention to each object of in terest, the gentlemen conclude that we might return to the lower world, and they kindly ac company us to the cathedral, and tender a history of the ancient pile, with an opportunity to inspect some fine old paintings, two of which were presented to the Baltimore Cathedral by one of the kings of France. The ladies of the Altar Society are in attendance and politely reveal to our admiring eyes the elegant vest ments of exquisitely wrought cloth of gold worn by the dignitaries of the church during the council, and other items of lesser interest. ] 04 SNAP NOTES. The interior of the cathedral casts a "dim religious light" that seems to softly press the soul to pious prayer. The space around the grand altar has recently been enlarged, and a fine piece of work accomplished overhead in the painting of the transfiguration. From the edifice we were led to the residence of His Eminence Cardinal Gibbons, and pre sented to the Primate of America, In the meantime Thos. Foley, Mr. F. s only son, had joined the party, a handsome young fellow, dark and dangerously fascinating to the young ladies present. When we were shown into the reception room, His Eminence entered without delay, saluting us most kindly. He is a dignified gentleman, of uncommon magnetic power, a student of rare attainments, whom to see is to love. After a pleasant chat, during which he expressed himself as happy to have received us, he extends his hand in blessing, we each kiss his ring, and take our departure, well pleased with the audience accorded us by His Eminence, through Mr. Foley s thoughtfulness. Next we visit the German Church of St. Al- phonse, which interiorly resembles the cathe dral of Boston. Thence we are escorted to the Visitation Convent, where, for the first time in my life, I converse with cloistered nuns. As A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 105 we await the appearance of Sister Benedicta, sister-in-law of both Mr. Foley and Mr. Shriver, I look curiously about me. The small recep tion room is partitioned from the hall by iron grating, the first row being iron bars, placed perpendicularly, and about the thickness of inch pipe; the second row is crossbarred. It looks to me the most prison-like place I ever entered. My surprise is soon broken when a happy nun appears at the double "fencing," and in cheerful tones exclaims: Now, whom do I know? I m sure this is Fannie Miller!" My start of astonishment is noticed, and I am in troduced to Sister Benedicta, who cordially wel comes each in turn, and, with the Rev. Moth er s permission, conveys us all through the convent, which I was most desirous of visiting. Sister Benedicta Sanders has been an inmate of this abode of peace for over forty years, during which time she has not been outside of the convent walls, yet, strange as it may seem to my Protestant friends, she is a bright, intelli gent, happy woman, a successful teacher, an elocutionist of no mean order, a writer of abil ity and strength, yet an humble follower of the Master, who promises reward in the pres ent time, and life everlasting hereafter, to those who shall leave home and parents and friends 106 SNA P NOTES. to follow Him. She inquired for Marcella A. Fitzgerald, and sent her messages of love. I expect to call again, and shall enjoy another visit, never yet having been in the atmosphere of learning without feeling its influence. We return to lunch at the Rennert, and dur ing the afternoon, upon Mr. Shriver s invita tion, we take a long, enjoyable drive through the park. Without doubt Druid Hill is the finest park I have seen. Its natural advan tages surpass those I have been in its shady nooks and sunny glades, winding driveways and charming views, quaint old moss-covered trees and fragrant mistletoe, suggestive of Druidic rite, and the extensive green lawn, all cling to the memory in hallowed beauty. The "Maryland" House of the Centennial has been removed to Druid Hill from Phila delphia, and stands upon an eminence, com manding a picturesque outlook. Upon our return we enter and inspect the elegant Jenkins Memorial Chapel a thing of beauty indeed. It is built of gray stone, has valuable insertions of art for windows, an ele gantly carved altar, beautiful pictures, and over all an air of perfect finish, which harmonizes the whole. I believe Joseph A. Ford, Esq., is our representative on the coast of the family which lias erected this excellent edifice. A VISIT WITH CARDINAL GIBBONS. 107 Reaching our rooms we prepare for dinner, after which Mr. S. takes Misses Maud and Evie through the market, which they enjoy, and to the candy stores. We retire about eleven, very tired. I write home before retiring. CHAPTER X. ROSELAND AND EXNISCORTHY, TYPICAL SOUTH ERN HOMES. Sunday, September 13. v. SHRIVER took us to the German Church this morning, after which he got a carriage and drove us to Mrs. Myer s country place, " Rose- land," to spend the day. Mrs. Murphy and Martin went to Washington, as the latter is due at Georgetown, and his mother wishes to se cure another week s outing for him after enter ing his name. We all returned in the even ing. " Roselaiid " is a beautiful spot, about nine miles from town, a typical Southern home, that is always full of gay company, which is hos pitably entertained if we may judge by our own reception. The vast lawn in front of the generous porcli is smooth, green, and pretty, edged with blooming rose trees. Here I met friends whose names are familiar words, Will Myer, for instance, of whom I had heard for years from Mary Foley, and to whom she was afterwards married. I judge him to be (108) ROUE LAND AND ENNISCORTHY. 109 a man of thorough integrity, modest in man ner, talented, and kind. The young ladies of the household appeared bright and jolly, and fond of society. After a pleasant day we turned homeward, passing Mt. Hope Retreat, where I have a sick friend, whom I shall call upon ere leaving Maryland. Monday, September 14- Mr. Foley called this morning about eleven o clock, before we had breakfasted, and re mained with us almost continuously. He chartered a boat and took us down the river beyond Fort McHenry, accompanied by his son and Mr. Shriver, to view the city from the riverside, and we could ask no greater enjoy ment than was afforded in this sail. A brisk, freshening breeze was blowing, and Mr. Foley s hat was swept from his head into the water. The skipper turned his boat and secured the hat with a dipping net. We landlubbers were pleased to place foot on terra jirma after the unique little voyage. We next ascended the stairways to the dome of the courthouse, whence we were assured an excellent vista awaited us. We were presented to Mayor Me , who, like a new college graduate, seems to feel his weight of honors, 110 SNAP NOTES. and looks perfectly conscious of his new title and position. We visited the art gallery of Myer, and Hadien s store, then took our lunch, and pre pared for a visit to " Enniscorthy," Mr. Foley s country place. We, as Mr. F. s guests, took the B. & 0. train at Camden Station, reaching Ellicott City in half an hour, and Enniscorthy," six miles further, in another thirty minutes. The views along the route are truly beautiful; the stone bridges are perfect pictures to me, and the loca tion at Ilchester of the house of the Redemp- torist Order is romantic and grand. We met Mr. Frank Murphy on the train, a delicate-looking, refined young man, connected with the publishing house bearing his familiar name. He is summering at Ilchester. At " Enniscorthy " we were received by Misses Lillie and Nannie Foley, and their aunt, Miss Sanders, who very cordially greeted us, and hospitably welcomed our coming. Miss Lillie is somewhat tall, with brown eyes and Titian bronze hair, is clever of speech, intellectually bright, with an independent air, and ever a kindly Christian spirit. Miss Nannie is of medium height, fair-haired, with "eyes of most unholy blue," a faultless complexion, sweet in disposition, and the Martha of the household. ROSELAND AND ENNISCORTHY. Ill Miss Sanders, their gentle aunt, is one of the sweetest characters I ever met, and completes, with "little Josephine," the home circle of "Enniscorthy." Dinner was announced at six o clock, and thereafter the evening was most pleasantly beguiled with cards and music. I was charm ingly entertained by Miss Lillie with an ac count of her travels abroad and visit to Ober- ammergau during the Passion Play. I found her an exceedingly interesting, congenial com panion, what Englishmen call "fetching" in appearance, but not particularly pretty one whom I think to know is to learn from. We felt perfectly at home with these almost new friends, their geniality of manner superinduc ing that effect. "Enniscorthy" is in Howard County, and was originally part of the Carroll demense, but purchased some years ago by Mr. Foley as a country summer home for his family, which they called in honor of his birthplace in Wex- ford, Ireland. The employes are all colored people, excepting the farmer and his family who have charge of the place. The household servants, colored, models of neatness, are sys tematic in their manner of waiting at table, and graceful as fawns. As I now prepare to retire, about midnight, 112 SNAP NOTES. I try to conjecture "what dreams may come," as I am told they may be realized when dreamed under a strange roof. Tuesday, September 15. Awakened by the bell, we rise at eight o clock, breakfast, and walk around the farm. During the outing I find many varieties of fern unlike our native Californians, which I would like to transplant to Miller Hall. Returning to the house, the carriages await us, and we are driven to Woodstock College, the novitiate of the Jesuits, a most enchanting woodland home, where kind Fr. Sabbetti takes great pride in piloting us through labyrinthian pathways and flower-girt avenues, to inspect gardens and other interesting scenes surround ing the lovely site. Fr. Sabbetti is generous with his floral beauties, and we leave at mid day rich with nature s dainty treasures thor oughly pleased with the drive, and Woodstock charmed. Reaching "Enniscorthy," we are met by Nannie, whose sweet face, en wreathed in smiles, cheers our way to luncheon, after which lawn tennis and pitch ette are indulged in. Lillie invites me for a drive; I accept, and in her cart we speed away to St. Charles Seminary, through which she unceremoniously initiates ROSELAND AND ENNfSCORTHY. 113 me, introducing me to Fr. Griffin, then around the grounds, giving snatches of its history as she proceeds. The Sulpicians here and Jesuits at Woodstock evince taste beyond praise in the elegance of their landscape gardening and neatly-arranged pathways and hedges. From St. Charles we drive to Doughregan Manor, the summer home of the Carroll family, who are now in Europe. The house is in colo nial style of architecture, painted white, a ver itable home of comfort and beauty. Handing over our equipage to the care of an aged negro, w T hom I understand to have been an attache to the- servants staff of the famous Signer, we wander around to see the conserva tory and spacious, neatly-kept lawns, the fine old trees, beautifully-modeled flower plots, and, not least, the handsome chapel, where I note a slab of marble mosaicked into the wall, on the gospel side of the altar inscribed: Charles Carroll of Carrollton, Born Sep. 20th, 1737. Died Nov. 14th, 1832. On religious occasions in the slave days the body of this chapel was filled with representa tives of the dark race owned by the Carrolls, the pews on each side of the altar being re served for the family and their friends. It was a novel sensation to me to kneel and s 114 SNAP NOTES pray before the altar upon which had been laid the petitions of the brave hero who erected this shrine and was equally faithful to his country and his God. The shades of gloaming warn us of the neces sity of returning. We find the party at "En- niscorthy " engaged in a game of croquet, which occupies the moments " tween the gloamin and the murk," until dinner, after which we enjoy the calm evening on the porch, and cards in the drawing room. Miss Lillie grouped us for a picture and kodaked us by flash light. We retire with the memory of a very de lightful day to soothe our eyes to slumber. CHAPTER XI. SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. Wednesday, September 16. left the lovely scenes of "Enniscorthy " this morning to take train for Baltimore, to keep an engagement with two friends. Driv ing with Messrs. Foley, Jr., and Shriver to Ellicott City, heartily imbibing the fresh air, enjoying the hush of the morning stillness, we reached our station in time, but the train was late. We arrived in Baltimore at 10:30. While awaiting my friends, I occupied the interim writing to the dear ones at home an account of my stay at Mr. Foley s. I lunched with friends and enjoyed the fish menu very much. My cousins joined me later. We then went for a drive over Crimea Hill, a sequestered, picturesque driveway, resembling our Marin County mountain roads, through an almost primeval forest, where I secured some ferns to send home. After dinner several friends came to spend the evening with us, whose society we enjoyed. Retire late, very weary. (H5) 116 SNAP NOTES. Thursday, September 17. Accompanying a friend, and armed with a letter of introduction to Sr. Catherine, Superior at Mt. Hope, from Mr. Foley, I start for the Re treat, on the train. In twenty-five minutes we whirl into the station, at the hospital, where we have an invalid friend, whom I am desirous of seeing ere leaving Baltimore, and have taken occasion to call to-day. After spending a couple of hours within the solitudes of this saddening place, we returned, reaching the Rennert at midday. After lunch we prepare for a trip, tendered us by Mr. Shriver, and at 3:30 leave for Gettys burg ma the Western Maryland Railroad, arriv ing in the famous battle burg at 7:30. Here we are lodged at the City Hotel, the best the place affords, conducted by a man as capacious of build and size as John L. Sullivan. His voice is as sonorous as the western wind, and he glibly assigns the ladies to two rooms, which boast four couches, with the assurance to Evie that if she rolls out of the window her fall will be broken by a roof several feet below very comfortable sensations to sleep on. Mrs. Murphy, Maud, and Mr. Tom Foley have just returned from up town, where our chaperon laid in her usual supply of souvenir SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 117 cucharas. She presented me with a lovely orange spoon. I note its characteristics, kiss the donor, and place it with my beauteous col lection, the gift of the same generous soul. Friday, September 18. After breakfasting, we wander about until ten o clock, when the large, convenient carryall secured by our entertainer is brought up, and we seat ourselves within its comfortable space to view the scenes of the bravely-fought battle that was "to decide the fete of human liberty." It is a very warm, sunny day, but the ride is most agreeable, over the ground of the first day s contest. To our left, on the south side, as we drive over Chambersburg turnpike, is seen Cemetery Ridge, and farther still Culp s Hill, which Longstreet was aiming to possess. Near at hand, on our right, is a yellow build ing, the Seminary, from the cupola of which General Buford took observations of the sur rounding country. It gives the name Semi nary Ridge to the elevation upon which it stands. Taking a northerly direction from the turn pike to an avenue, on our right is shown the line of battle, the position of the Federal troops being commemorated by a row of stately mon uments, white marble, granite, and other valu able stone and bronze predominating. Each i *>* SNAP handsomely-wrought design signifies where regiments were stationed They were placed there either by the State to which the regiments belonged, or by the surviving comrades, under the auspices of the "Battlefield Memorial Associ ation." Over the scene of cruel carnage, thirty miles square, there are already four hundred of these majestic memorials, with many more in course of completion. One Confederate shaft was permitted to be placed. It was done by the State of Maryland. They are too numerous for me to particular ize, but I may remark the spot where General Reynolds was killed, whereon, in heavy gray granite, is told the tale of his fall, supposed to have been a shot from an ambushed sharp shooter, which struck him in the eye and passed out over his left temple. He fell from his horse and his neck was broken. We pass along, reading and inspecting mon uments, until our eyes are weary with the white glare of sunshine on the marble. We halt at the spring where General Lee s soldiers lay sick on the second day s battle, from drink ing the waters, which were supposed to have been poisoned. To us it tasted of magnesia and soda, Little wonder that the poor fellows became ill, in the scorching heat of July s rag ing sun, and the added warmth of desperate conflict. SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 119 Making the circuit, we return to the town about noon, having pleasantly and instructively spent a forenoon of intense interest. Wander ing around, I make inquiries respecting the place, and am informed that the present site of Gettysburg was originally the property of Win. Perm, but about 17SO came into the possession of a man named Gettys, who divided it into town lots, and called it after himself, "Gettys burg." Entering the "Antiquarian Store" we are shown many curios, most of which have been picked up on the field, among them a Con federate and a Federal bullet which .met in the air and were welded, by the force, into one. Returning to the hotel we lunch and prepare for the afternoon s excursion. Mr. Herbert Shriver, of Union Mills, and Mr. Brown, of Philadelphia, drive up to spend the day with us, and after lunch join us in the coach, when, with a competent guide, Mr. Minnock, we start off to inspect Cemetery Ridge and the entire stage whereon was enacted one of the most bloody dramas of the war. It is a grand ex cursion, full of revelation, instructive and beau tiful. Attention is directed to the house wherein Jennie Wade was killed by a shell while mak ing bread. We soon reach the cemetery. It is divided in the center by a OF UHI7BESIT7 120 8NA2 J NOTLS. On the left, as we approach, are interred the civilians, the right side being reserved for the military graves, where lie hundreds of soldiers, many of them with blank slabs marking the mound, unknown, but of course not unwept. A New York State monument calls attention, being ninety-two feet high and costing $5,000. The cemetery is designed in a semicircle running north and south, with the elegant na tional monument in the center, fashioned after the Immaculate Conception Monument in Rome, surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty, and four handsome figures around the pedes tal representing Peace (a mechanic), War (a U. S. soldier), History (a woman sitting with open scroll in her hand), and Plenty (a woman with sheaves of wheat). We drive through the avenue, and alight from our carriage to walk up Cemetery Hill, listening as the guide recites the story, in pa thetic, aye, poetic language, of the cruel strife. He points out the almshouse, which we had seen in the morning, and mentions young Wil kinson, who amputated his own shattered limb with his sword, dragged himself to the alms- house, used as a hospital, but died next morn ing, after a night of insufferable pain. The Blue Ridge Mountains, in cerulean tint, line the western horizon, and the valley of the SCENES IN GETTYSBURG. 121 Cumberland stretches beyond them. The broad battle ground, mapped in nature s lines, lies before us. The charges made and their loca tion are all carefully rehearsed. The breast works thrown up are still at our feet, lessened and rounded by time. Cannons rest here and there, their brazen mouths closed, their deadly work done. The dauntless "Louisiana Ti gers," under Hays, here did splendid work, but, laboring under great disadvantages, were finally repulsed. It is recorded that on this spot was fought one of the most frenzied hand-to-hand struggles of the three days carnage. Gulp s Hill stands serenely to the southeast, in wooded beauty and unforgotten glory. We reenter the vehicle, and, following the Emmitsburg Pike, are shown the scene, on our right, of " Pickett s Charge," the great and mar velous piece of determined bravery of the war. Gallantly charging the Union lines across a field a mile broad, under a hurricane of shot and shell, the brave column swept grandly on ward, until mowed down in its advance by the withering blast of belching musketry concen trated on its chivalrous front. The repulse was complete, and but a handful of men who participated in this fearful attack survived. Passing by the peach orchard mentioned in history, which has been twice planted since the 1*2 SNAP NOTES, war, we come to grain tields, and finally are wending our way over the serpentine road of Gulp s Hill, whence we are soon led into the " Devil s Den," a wild, tumbled lot of bowlders, evidently massed by a convulsion of nature, with a crystalline stream issuing from their cavernous depths. Dismounting we view the uncanny spot with curiosity. It was an excel lent cover for the lurking sharpshooter, and our guide informs us that among the clump of rocks fell many wounded soldiers, who lay un discovered for days. He showed us where the bones of a Georgia soldier still lie, a kindly hand having lately covered them with earth. Barefooted, ragged children emerge from the broken ddbris with cupfuls of the clear water, which they offer not in His name but for the material reward cheerfully granted by the bevy of visitors, who feel the effects of Septem ber s ardent sun Pursuing our way towards the Round Tops, over a beautifully designed road shaded by oak and hickory trees, we suddenly appear before a large Irish cross in granite, with the Irish wolf lying at its base, in bronze, the monument of the " 69th Irish Regimen t,"marking the place where mass was said for the regiment before the second day s battle, when, as the priest raised his hand in blessing on the kneeling IN GETTYSBURG, I-,M Boldiers, the word, "Forward!" came from Gen eral JCelly, and instantly ranks were formed, and the men in battle line, ready for action. I am proud of my Irish and my Faith! The roadway leads to Spangler s Springs, and we drink of the water that supplied both armies with refreshment during the contest. Round Top reached we again alight, and view the vast, graveyard-like valley, bristling with shafts of marble and granite. Here Mr. Minnock explains the movements and incidents of the second and third days battles, interesting to hear, but not readily understood by one possessed of as limited knowl edge of warfare as I may claim. The trees hereabouts, scarred and bullet-wounded, show the effects of the hot fire poured into their midst, some lying prone upon the ground, fall ing to decay, shelled by enemies not their own. On Little Round Top I note a life-size figure in bronze of General Warren, who saved the "Round Tops." Descending to the flat country we follow the stone wall road to a spot hallowed by a scroll of marble, where General Hancock anxiously kept watch of the day s movements and vicissi tudes, directing his men, without once losing patience This is near what is termed "the bloody angle," when the third day s battle 124 SNAP NOTES. swept out regiments of the confederacy, every inch of the air being black with the winged missiles of death. The battle closed on the 4th of July, 1863, after three days of mortal strife. General Lee, than whom no braver soldier held a sword, disheartened and discouraged, with drew beyond the distant Blue Ridge, and passed a wretched night and day in sadness, his men sick, weary, and footsore. Now, my diary, there is much that I could not sufficiently grasp to properly place in your keeping, and mayhapsl have become wearisome relating what everybody but myself already knew. However, as I never saw the "Pano rama of Gettysburg," and never had entertained an idea of the magnitude of the battle until now, I may be excused for jotting down the items that arrested my interest. Returning ma Hancock Avenue to Gettys- berg, we dine at the City Hotel, and Mr. Shriver provides two carriages for our conveyance to Emmittsburg, which ancient little city we set out for at 6:30 P. M. We arrive in Emmitts burg, ten miles distant, about nine o clock, and are booked at a hotel sans name, managed on rather primitive plans. Retiring about ten o clock, very tired, we gladly welcome balmy sleep. CHAPTER XII. THE CITY OF EMMITTSBURG; THE OLD HOME STEAD AT "UNION MILLS." September 19. RISING with the break of dawn, and break fasting early, we are free to stroll about and see the peculiarities of the town. It is an old-fashioned, quiet place. The people are lazy-looking, and the streets are dirty and much in need of sidewalks. The stores are like the little country shops of suburban towns in Cali fornia. The houses look old, many of them dilapidated, and the hotel fare is miserable. Mr. Shriver s sister-in-law, with her son and daughter, call to see us, and conduct us to the Convent of St. Euphemia, near the parish church, to see some of its inmates who are Californians. They are delighted to see us, and truly royal in their earnest welcome to pilgrims from the West. They accompanied us to Mt. St. Joseph s, founded in 1815 by Mother Seton, and the entire building was thrown open for our inspection. (125) 126 SNAP NOTES. Our admiration of the elegant convent, a retreat of repose, embowered by majestic trees, in the heart of a broad green lawn, is indeed beyond expression. Its health-giving resources, large, excellently ventilated rooms, spacious grounds, beautiful gardens, with perfect clean liness and order throughout, are attractions to which we yield unbounded homage. The chapel is exquisite in its finish and furnishings. A beautiful shrine in the garden marks the resting place of Mother Seton, and beside her have been placed the remains of the late Arch bishop Bailey, her kinsman. Near by is the house she erected, where she lived, taught, led others to life everlasting, and died. Mr. Shriv- er s mother, now aged eighty-three, is one of the original fifteen pupils taught in this small schoolhouse, by Mother Seton, in 1815. Bidding adieu to our gentle friends, we are taken by our host to Mt. St. Mary s Seminary and College, where Fr. Allen is pastor and Superior. The drive hither is pleasant and the approach to the college beautiful. It is the institution which has reared the most gigan tic minds in American church history, and I am happy to be privileged to inspect it. The paintings are ancient and elegant, the college of a superior standard of learning, and its situation romantic and isolated, on a hillside covered THE CITY OF EMMTTTSBURG. 127 with evergreen shrubbery and beautiful trees. Registering in the President s Visitors Book, after a tour through the halls and grounds of the old college, we take our course towards " Haylands," the home of Mr. Wm. Shriver. A short distance from Mt. St. Mary s, I note "Clearlands," the old home of the Shorb family. The house, constructed of gray stone, low in stature, homelike in appearance, stands upon a knoll in bold command of a complete view of "Emmittsburg" and the surrounding country. Weed-grown and neglected, the old home and birthplace of chivalrous Dr. Shorb, one of Cal ifornia s favorite adopted sons, rests firmly on its foundations. Its once- honored inmates have passed away; old associations have van ished; the music of their joy is hushed forever, yet the staunch, enduring stone remaineth. At "Haylands" we lunch, spend a pleasant hour, then hasten to the train for Westminster, en route for "Union Mills." Traveling through part of Pennsylvania, the trip is enjoyable and the route pretty. Quaintly-attired Quakers board the cars, carrying baskets of flowers and fruit. With evening s lengthening shadows we reach Westminster, and from the depot are conveyed in carriages to " Union Mills," six miles distant. On the train from Baltimore 128 SNAP NOTES. Mr. Herbert Shriver was accompanied by Rev. Fr. Grannan, professor of philosophy at the Catholic University of Washington, who is coming to "the Mills" for the purpose of con ducting religious service in the private chapel of the Shriver family. About dusk we arrive in sight of the old homestead, and I mark the air of restful com fort which invites one to repose and peace within the sweet precincts of hospitality s arms, spread open over scenes as fresh and fair as morning s face. At the gate we are greeted by the Misses Shriver and their venerable lady mother, who has the soft, low voice that poets love. Gently inviting us to remove our hats and wraps, we are led to rooms that repeat the atmosphere of ease everywhere breathed in this charming home. Dinner is soon announced, and the dining hall fills with guests, ready to enjoy a most generous and delicious menu, and each other s genial society. The meal concluded we are accompanied across the turnpike to the mill race, and treated to a most romantic and en joyable boat sail. Stepping into the little shallop from a picturesque, rustic bridge, span ning the stream neath the umbrageous branches of a weeping willow, we are rowed by master hands in the art, up the winding THE CITY OF EMMITTSBURQ. 129 rivulet, cheered by voices in sweet song. It is a beautiful evening, and as we glide along, round curves and shallows, the spirit of merri ment rules the hour. Right here Evie thought she had encountered her kismet, but there was "a difference in the morning " ! As we stroll back to the house of our hostess, I inquire about it, and the reason of the title "Union Mills," and am informed that the an cestors of the possessors of this property ob tained it in 1797, engaging in the milling bus iness, and by united exertion in the management of flour and grist mills and a successful saw mill, they designated their combined property as " Union Mills," which name is retained. The home of our entertainers was built in 1828, and is a commodious dwelling, located near the turnpike, and almost encompassed by neatly- cropped lawns and selected shade trees, among which I was shown a specimen of {he mahog any, the only one I have ever seen. Retiring about eleven, I enjoy somnolent re pose, my mind replete with "a picture on the brain." , Sunday, September 20. At half past seven we are in the prayer- inspiriting little chapel, attending the divine office, celebrated by Fr. Grannan, being served 130 SNAP NOTES. by Mr. Herbert Shriver and his little son Jo seph, whose grandmother walked up to the rail ing to receive the blessed sacrament as spryly as the young people, although eighty-three win ters have left their snows upon her head. The holy services ended, we repair to the breakfast room for our morning meal, and dis cuss an excellent repast. Enjoying the lovely day we saunter about, and climb the lawn- covered slope to "Avalon," the home of Mr. B. F. Shriver, and are introduced to his interest ing family. Glancing down from the porch of his handsome residence, a fine sweep of coun try is overseen, with a living stream meander ing through the center, which I am told is Big Pipe Creek, so called from the custom of the Indians to smoke the calumet on its banks. A stroll " down by the old mill stream," another cheery row on its sparkling waters, and the hours roll on to midday, when we lunch. Another outing directs our wanderings to a substantial stone bridge over the creek, whose graceful arches mirrored in the stream claim my longing wish to sketch, and what a pretty picture I would have ! This bridge was con structed in 1807, and has nobly withstood storm and tempest for more than eighty years. We were initiated into the mysteries of mill ing flour, which is an interesting process, but, THE CITY OF EMMITTSBVRG. 131 although a Miller born rr^self, I am not compe tent of penning the result of to-day s schooling in the art which causes man to appreciate the moisture "of his brow." I have been feeling ill all this afternoon, my old annoyance, neuralgia, troubling me, so I seek the charms of repose. Mr. A. K. Shriver took the party out driving, and they express great delight and pleasure with the cruise of enjoyment afforded them. At four o clock p. M. we attended benediction of the Blessed Sacrament, given by Fr. Grennan, and the remainder of the day passes pleasantly away. Maud, spicily amusing herself with a callow youth from across the pike, is an au dible goddess of laughter was there ever an other? Evalyn is engaged with me, admir ing the exquisite handicraft of Miss Mollie . liriver, beautifully en wrought on the altar clo hs, vestments, and other articles belonging to the chapel, which evinces the devout spirit of the gentle toiler whose fair hands accomplished all th : s dainty artistic work. After tea, which is indeed supper, we repair to the parlor, bid ding moments speed on the wings of sweet harmony. Nearing the witching hour o mid night we claim Morpheus as our king. Monday, September 21. After hearing mass celebrated for a deceased 13 SNAP NOTES. member of tlie family, we breakfasted, bade adios to the kind, hospitable friends of "Union Mills," whose voices in our " echoing hearts a sound must long remain," and take carriages for Westminster, to meet the Baltimore train, Fr. Grennan accompanying us. Rolling into Baltimore at eleven o clock, we soon meet Messrs. Foley, Senior and Junior, who kindly come to hail our return, and with them we do a round of shopping, lunching at the Rennert, and at 4:45 take the train for Washington, D. C. Over an excellently balanced road we rapidly speed, snatching glimpses of wood-embossed valleys, dimpled hills, and brawling streams, and reaching Washington at 6:30 p. M., as the gray curtains of dusk begin to droop. Taking apartments at the Arlington, a splendid hotel, we are again satisfactorily sit uated, and prepare to acknowledge a bevy of letters from home, which anticipated our arrival. CHAPTER XIII. MOUNT VERNOtf. Tuesday, September 22+ THIS morning, at ten o clock, we board the Chax. McAlester, a pretty little steamer that floats down the Potomac like a bird, for Mt. Yernon. The day is extremely warm, yet we imbibe the beauty of the scenery on both banks of the river, over which hangs in dreamy languor, a glamour of soft haze. At 11:30 Mt. Yernon heights are seen, and we set foot on the landing, canopied, and beautified by Mrs. Hearst, the Regent for California. Pursuing our way up the slope, we reach the tomb of our first President, and reverently note its most salient characteristics; thence, follow ing the path, we inspect the mansion, the rooms and furniture, so patriotically reclaimed from the ruining possession of idle time by the stout-hearted women of America. The view from the veranda of the mansion is a picture for Bierstadt s brush. The blue waters of the almost national river sweep (133) 134 SNAP NOTES. smoothly by, bearing stately vessels on their tide, that salute with flying flag and tolling bell this site of beauty and renown. The men tal impulse to indulge in dreamy retrospective pleasure is peculiarly strong when standing upon the ground where lived and died the noble hero of American history, who gazed upon the charming scenes we now view admir ingly, and with sincere desire to preserve in the "amber of memory." Mrs. Murphy had our group photographed on the lawn, with the mansion for a background. It is a neat souvenir of the lovely place. Leaving Mt. Vernon at 1:30 we steam up the river, passing by Alexandria, the " city of ruins," where we are shown the house wherein Colonel Ellsworth, the first victim of the Re bellion, was killed; also old Christ Church, in which Washington was vestryman. I must note that in Alexandria Washington cast his first vote, in 1754, and his last, in 1799. It is a city of memories, for " tis a city of ruins." As we approach the metropolis, the Wash ington Monument, standing in its towering might of five hundred and fifty -five feet, looks majestic and grand, reflected for a mile in the dimpling waters of the Potomac. The capitol also is an imposing structure seen from the river, MOUNT VERNON. 135 Having lunched on the boat, a miserable meal, we have time to drive around the city and shop. Evie is ailing under the oppressive heat of the day. Martin and Maud attend the theater. Wednesday, September *23. Accompanied Mrs. M. on a shopping tour, and then to Georgetown College, to leave Mar tin. The town is not a particularly pretty place, the university being perhaps the chief building of prominence, and I am told it is the object which gives the town note. It is a hand some gray stone structure, formidable -looking and somewhat suggestive of pictures I have seen of the new Catholic university, which I expect to view later. Fr. Richards took us all through the fine establishment, and we obtained a pretty view of Virginia across the river, Arlington Heights, formerly the Lee plantation, Roselands, and the monument, etc., etc. George town is now called Western Washington, so closely does it hug the once more distant city. Driving back to W , we find several friends at the hotel awaiting us. After dinner with them, they escort us for a walk, showing us the different public buildings, etc. Thursday, September 2 4- The Messrs. H. and A.-K.Shriver called this 136 SNAP NOTE3. morning, and, having secured a three-seated carriage, drove us to the Soldiers Home and Catholic university, around by Ecklands, which was an excursion of most pleasing reminiscences. At the university we were presented to Bishop Keane, the " silver-tongued orator " of the Cath olic pulpit. He is a man of most attractive address, and with whom I am particularly charmed. Here, too, we met Fr. Grannan, who kindly afforded us the pleasure of an insight of the elegant college interior throughout a priv ilege enjoyed through our escorts, Dr. Grannan s friends, and for which we are deeply indebted. The magnificent buildings- stand on a high knoll in bold relief, trees girting the base of the eminence, and the broad front of the mass ive structure is almost as enduring in strength as the truths taught within its granite walls. After lunching at the Arlington, I was invited to see the Botanical Gardens and Smithsonian Institute, all of which I heartily enjoyed. After dinner we all went for a walk, and Mr. S. left for Baltimore on an evening train. CHAPTER XIV. THE CAPITOL AT WASH IN(. TON. September 25. A FTER our matutinal meal, we call for a -*-*- carriage and go to the capitol, hire a guide, and see the entire interior of the won derful building, the paintings, frescoing, and statuary, all of a high order of art. In the old Hall of Representatives stands Vinnie Ream s statue of Lincoln, for which the talented little woman received from the gov ernment ten thousand dollars. It is a fine piece of work. Bierstadt s picture of Monterey is not up to my idea of the artist s possibilities. Henry Hudson discovering the river is a finely conceived poem on canvas. The large fresco piece " Westward the Course of Empire Takes Its Way," illustrating the rugged road to Cali fornia in 1848, is excellent. The Golden Gate beneath, with dear old Marin s rocky cliffs pro jecting over their water-washed base, is familiar as sunlight. The United States Senate chamber is very handsome, and the United States Supreme (137) 138 SNAP NOTES. Court room is plainer but serious looking. The President s room, where he signs the bills passed by Congress, is especially beautiful, the fresco ing elegant. The lobby is interesting, and, oh, if its walls could speak ! We tried the acoustic properties of the old Hall of Representatives, where stands Franzoni s clock, and were inter ested and amused. Next we visited the " Gold Room," where the speaker of the House re ceives his friends. The lobby here is lined with portraits of ex -speakers, most prominent of whom is James G. Elaine. The rotunda regained we pass out. Imme diately in the center of the rotunda is a bit of white marble, marking the spot where is placed in state the bier holding the remains of the nation s honored dead. Here rested the pall of Lincoln, Garfield, Grant, and others. Leaving the capitol, we take our way to the Monument and ascend in the elevator to the summit, five hundred feet; the other fifty-five feet are above us. This monument was eleven years building. It stands on the Potomac s edge and commands a matchless view of the river. In the elevator were about thirty per sons, and we were nearly smothered in the crowd, being as closely packed as sardines in a can. Visiting the Corcoran Art Gallery, I was de- THE CA PI TO L A T WA S HI NO TON. 1 39 lighted to see an original Paul Veronese, repre senting a scene in the "Passion of Christ." I enjoyed the handsome pictures and statuary groups very much. I feel very tired and ill, possibly the result of the sultry weather and unusual walking in doors, which is wearisome to me. Received letters from home, which, of course, were like dear friends faces, welcome and pleasing. Saturday, September %6. Am very uncomfortable to-day; the sultry warmth is exceedingly depressing, and a fever ish, malarial feeling, most unwelcome, to say the least, is asserting itself. Rousing myself from the languorous influence, I go out shop ping with Mrs. Murphy, and purchase gifts for my California friends. My cousin friend selects Mt. Vernoii and Washington spoons, that are art studies of beauty, and with the late addition of Baltimore, Enniscorthy, and Union Mills souvenir spoons, my collection from Mrs. Mur phy is constantly enlarging. Returned to the Arlington overheated and ailing. On an evening train from Baltimore Mr. A. K. Shriver arrived, and after dinner took Misses Maud and Evie and myself for a jaunt through the park, through the grounds of the White House, and elsewhere. Martin T7HI7BRSITr] 140 SNAP NOTES. attended his mother on her return from the col lege and gayly greets us as we enter the hotel. He is enthusiastic in praise of Georgetown, and I think will take due advantage of the oppor tunity here afforded towards a liberal education. Now a care-free, good-hearted, unaffectedly humorous young man, the outlook of his future is excellent under the regime of Georgetown, after which there is much to be expected. Sunday, September 27. We all attend mass at St. Matthew s Church, Rev. Dr. Chappelle, the bishop elect of Albu querque, New Mexico, offering up the Holy Sacrifice, arid preaching a farewell sermon to his flock, during which he is tearfully affected. For the first time since leaving California Maud succumbs to climatic influence, and almost faints in church. It is very warm and sunny. At nine o clock we take our breakfast, and retire to our rooms to write letters, Mr. S. leav ing for Baltimore, and the happy "tease," Martin, returning to Georgetown. The oppress ive heat has almost prostrated me. Am un able to withstand much heat, having once been partially sunstruck. Mrs. Edward Martin, of California, is at this hotel with her sons, students of Georgetown. After an outing we retire, with our windows THE CAPITOL AT WASH[NGTOtf. 141 wide agape, mosquitoes lively and hungry, and the air heavy and hot. We find rest a wished- for thing with which we are not to be blessed. Monday, September 28. After returning from the breakfast room I feel indisposed and unrefreshed. Dr. Wales beg pardon, no kinsman to the prince has been sent for, and his orders are for rest and sleep, neither of which I may justly claim while traveling. However, I remain for the day in my room, as close as I can reach his advice. Am very much fatigued, the effects of immod erate walking, to which I am a stranger. At noon Mr. Sh river came over from Baltimore, bringing us letters. Evening finds us packing for home. To-day Mrs. M. and Maud attended the Pres ident s reception. It continues sultry and sick ening. During the calm of twilight Mr. Shriver took Evie and myself for a drive and kindly introduced us to parts of the city with a view of which we had not before been favored. The Chinese Legation, and mansions of the British and French Legations, with others, and the fire-ruined house of Secretary Tracy, wherein his wife perished, the house of interesting his tory occupied by Mr. Blaine, and innumerable others were shown us, with a thousand objects 142 SNAP NOTES. of remark and interest. The bronze figures of our national heroes adorning every available space of ground stand out in bold relief twixt our vision and the opaline sky. The evening was lovely. The delightful out ing ended, we retraced our course, to regain our rooms for early rest. CHAPTER XV. LAST DAYS IN MARYLAND. Tuesday, September 29. TTAVE bad no sleep, and but little rest all -*--*- night. I am pleased that it is our last day in Washington, which handsome city I haveheen able to only dreamily enjoy, the ener vating climate having deprived me of all energy and spirit to mingle in scenes around which the enchantment of interest revolves. We take leave of Martin, who keeps bravely up in parting with his loved ones. Our belong ings having been forwarded to the depot, Mr. Shriver takes charge of the party and accom panies us to Baltimore, where we are to take the afternoon train on our homeward-bound trip. The Rennert is gained about noon. I feel wretchedly ill, alternately feverish and chilly, and cross as a bear. I m sure everybody will know that I am a " native daughter of the Golden West." Our Baltimore friends called to wish us Godspeed and prevailed in soft per suasion to postpone our departure until the (143) 144 SNAP NOTES. morrow. Mr. Shriver and Mr. Tom Foley ten dered us "a. spin" through the park, which was exceedingly pleasant to those feeling well and bright. Having accepted Mrs. Mark Shriver s invita tion to tea, and to spend the evening in her sweet home of domestic bliss, thither we re paired as the dusky brow of eventide began to lower. A warm welcome from the kindliest hearts in Baltimore, and the evening s pleasure was assured. With my dear favorite, old Hor ace, I sincerely believe that nothing on this earth can "with a true, genial friend compare," and such I take our host to be, and his lovely, amiable, dark-eyed wife. After the prettily- served supper, Mr. Foley escorted Misses Maud and Evie to the theater, and the rest sped the winging hours with cards. During the evening Mr. C. C. Shriver and his charming wife, formerly Miss Fuine, of Vir ginia, dropped in, and in the opportunity of fered to become acquainted through conversa tional influence with her admirable character, I did not regret the awkwardness of card han dling that kept me from joining the players to night. With the waning hour towards midnight we betook ourselves hotel ward, and, in parting, LAST DAYS IN MARYLAND. 145 the refrain of Moore, so full of sentiment, welled upward from my heart: " Farewell! but whenever you welcome the hour That awakens the night song of mirth in your bower, Then think of the friend who once welcom d it too, And forgot his own griefs to be happy with you." Wednesday, September 30. With the first burst of daylight I am up and about. Mr. Foley and Miss Lillie called, hav ing traveled from "Enniscorthy"this morning. Upon invitation I accompany them to their city house, through which Lillie leads me to inspect the comfortably-planned, elegantly-furnished home, whose solid joys keep happy the winter and spring months of the year, the summer and autumn calling its cherished inmates to the sea of greenery swelling and encompassing sweet "Enniscorthy." We return for breakfast at eleven o clock, after which Miss Lillie and Mr. Charlie Murphy, of Baltimore, take us to visit the Johns Hopkins Hospital, a munificently en dowed institution for the needy, and conducted on plans of magnificent liberality. Of the staff of physicians in charge, Dr. Osier, a refined- looking, entertaining gentleman, politely at tends us through the beautifully-kept dormi tories, wards, halls, and rooms, and throughout I note with inquisitive glance all modern im- 10 146 SNAP NOTES. provements and convenient appurtenances, with a ventilating system peculiarly its own. Rooms of superior comfort are reserved for those able to pay. The staff of nurses is not excelled in America; nearly all are young, strong, healthy-looking girls, under the care and direction of a competent matron. The hospital is the gift of Johns Hopkins, a worthy and creditable philanthropist of Baltimore, who died about eight years ago, and is now des ignated as "St. Johns Hopkins" by his admir ing friends. The memorial room is fittingly furnished with his own belongings. Particularly at tractive is a long, expensive, massively- carved black table, with six legs, placed in the center of the room. Bric-a-brac, rich and rare, adorn the walls, and from this room one carries away a unique impression. The Nurses Home adjoins the hospital build ings, and we were permitted a peep into the matron s apartments, which bespeak the char acteristics of the occupant, respectability and strict sense of discipline every where discern ible. The genial Dr. Osier cunningly invited us to join the force of nurses, and, as induce ment, admitted that one of the most aristocratic members of the medical staff had lately mar ried one of the trained nurses inducement enough, and promotion. L A S T DA YS IN MA I? YLAND. 1 47 I am gratified with the pleasure afforded by this visit to the Hopkins Hospital, and have enjoyed it thoroughly. Reaching the hotel, we find Mrs. Frank Smith, a friend of Miss Foley s, who has called to meet us, on Lillie s invitation. She is a gentle, suave lady, refined and kind. Mr. Herbert Shriver and his chil dren also greet us, soon followed by Mr. Foley, and Messrs. Al. Myer and Tom Foley. At 1:30 we accept Mr. A. K. Shriver s invitation to lunch, and at table form an interesting group. At 2:30 we drive to the B. & 0. R. R Depot, and sorrowfully say farewell to the dear friends who have been so hospitable and kind during our stay in their midst. Mr. Shriver, however, takes advantage of our westward course to make a business trip to St. Louis, and we are delighted, having found, too, the need of a man a distressing reality. Turning from Baltimore we run into Wash ington, remaining fifteen or twenty minutes, then steam directly west, en route for Cincin nati. About eighty miles from Baltimore, along the Potomac and its canal, we come to the oft-heard-of Harper s Ferry, and cross the Potomac at its junction with the Shenandoah. The Blue Ridge drags its length to the east ward. The peak of Jefferson s Rock, where the noble statesman harangued the people, to 148 SNAP NOTES. the left, almost overhangs old "John Brown s Fort," and the village which was once the place for manufacturing arms, etc., for the govern ment. The "Fort" is a small brick house and is not formidable-looking, yet I suppose has served its purpose. Stonewall Jackson s posi tion on the bluff holding possession of the val ley is proudly indicated, when General Banks was driven back in slaughter. The arsenal was burned, of course, but its foundation re mains, ruined and worthless. The broad valley of Virginia stretches be tween the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies, in places thirty miles in extent, and is a beautiful, wooded, fertile country, fully recovered from the results of the army inroads thirty years ago. It runs south, or to the left of us, and the Cumberland sweeps to the north neath the shadow of the Blue Ridge. Winding along the south bank of the Potomac, we pass through and witness scenery as boldly grand and pic turesque as may be found in any part of Swit zerland, or other boasted scenic country of Eu rope. West Virginia is now to be seen at its best. The scarlet leaves of the dogwood are being re touched by nature s brush, and other brilliant foliage charms the sight and claims the ad miration of nature s lovers of the beautiful. LA S T DA YS IN MA R YLA NO. 1 49 The reflection of mountains, trees, blossomed bushes, and tangled shrubbery in the clear streams is enchanting almost ideal. War- noted hamlets, among which is Martinsburg, are being indicated by Mr. Shriver, who is familiar with the country hereabout. As twilight settles upon the silent waters of the river, it tips its softly-flowing ripples with silver and throws the tree shadows in darker relief, and still we skurry along at tremendous rate, halting but a moment at intervening sta tions between Harper s Ferry and Cumberland, a distance of one hundred miles. Cumberland, the queen city of the Alleghanies, is very pret tily nestled in the heart of the mountains, but the darkening night clouds nearly conceal its beauties. The Narrows suggest the Colo rado Gorge, and Deer Park is brilliantly ablaze with electric light. Garrett s Cottage, wherein Mr. Cleveland spent his honeymoon with his lovely bride, is a feature of the place. I regret that the afterglow of sunset has faded, evening has merged into night, and I must retire with out further view of this exquisite picture on nature s own canvas, which I so much enjoy. CHAPTER XVI. HOMEWARD BOUND. Thursday, October 1. ~T> ESTLESS and unrefreshed, I am wearily -^ dull. We crossed the Ohio River near Mari etta during the "wee sma hours of the dawn," and reached Cincinnati at 7:30, but could not remain long, so boarded the Ohio and Mississ ippi train for Louisville, Kentucky. Coursing along the banks of the Ohio, with Kentucky on our left, we pass into Indiana and find that same ness in the scenery which wearies, although it is a beautiful, richly-endowed country. At North Vernon, Indiana, we take a direct course south ward to Louisville. It is quite warm, but pleasant. Cincinnati is a business breathing city; its people are active, and commendably attentive to their own affairs. The sandy banks of the Ohio, with its slow-moving waters on our left, is spanned by two immense railroad bridges, one leading to Covington, Kentucky, the other taking us along the road to Louisville. We (150) HOMEWARD BOUND. 151 recross the Ohio near the latter city, and for the first time I see canal locks and am shown how they operate, the Ohio River having a canal here that is kept in order, the river proper be ing liable to change. We arrive in Louisville at high noon, and register at Louisville Hotel. The town is lit erally alive with people, who are celebrating the Harvest Festival with processions, balls, fairs, etc. The prettiest women and hand somest men I have yet seen are in this city. To-night they are crowding the hotel, and the streets are lined with people. We took a carriage to-day and went wherever fancy suggested. Drove down the fine thorough fare called Broad way, where we noted handsome residences, also saw the new custom house, and the handsome Union Depot. Drove into and around Mr. Dupont s private park, a tame, old- fashioned looking place. In all the city have only seen two superior teams of carriage horses, whereas I looked for fine horses everywhere in Kentucky. Mules there are without number or character, with darkies as Jehus in every instance. We take supper, and at eight o clock start for St. Louis on the 0. & M., sleeping on the train. Friday , October 2. Upon arriving at St. Louis we were taken di- 152 SNAP NOTES. rectly to the Southern Hotel. After some delay, Mr. S. succeeded in securing rooms, although every one had been engaged, it being the carni val week, and fete of the Veiled Prophet. The hotel is now said to be absolutely fireproof, and is carried on on the American plan, It is thronged with guests. The city is elegantly illuminated. Broadway Street is lit up in half circles across the thoroughfare, and others have lamps within globes for a stretch of seven miles, giving an enchantingly beautiful effect- During the forenoon we rested. Early in the afternoon Miss O Meara and Miss Taylor, with her brother, called to arrange for a drive. I decline to go, as my malarial tendency is again troubling me, and I prefer to follow the doctor s orders and try to rest. In the evening we all attend the Royal Arcanum Society s Concert, by Gilmore s Band, a charitable institution for the benefit of widows and orphans. Some of the music is of a high order, and the songs by the male quartette are very fine. We returned early, to seek needed repose. Saturday, October 3. Misses O Meara and Taylor called to guide us around town, and conducted us to the public library, a well-filled establishment of select reading matter splendidly arranged, under the HOMEWARD BOUND. 153 superintendence of Mr. Anderson, a scholarly man, with literary taste. A superbly carved figure in wood of Robert Burns, with four of his best poems illustrated on the pedestal, is a unique piece of art I particularly admired in one corner of a room adjoining the library. Other fine art treasures belong here, and some valuable canvases are stored on its walls. Jewelry stores are next visited for souvenir spoons, and, as usual, Mrs. Murphy favors me with another. My friends are about to attend the matinee, so I return to the Southern, to await their coming to dinner at five. In the meantime I take an outing in the park. A life-size statue of Frank Blair, who saved Missouri from secession, stands at the entrance. The park is a pretty driveway, and does not seem as large as I am told it is, being second to Fairmount in size. Druid Hill is still my favorite. We dined at five, then all went forth to view the illuminations, which presented a Monte Christo effect at night the most charming and beautiful scene I ever witnessed, as a varied and magnificent luminance. Miss Tessie O Meara, who is the soul of hos pitality, manifests a cheerfulness in dispensing it that is fascinatingly magnetic. She invites us to her "sweet home" for a few hours, where gi^s: or THB UHIVBBSITY] 154 SNAP NOTES. we pleasantly discuss our trip over a menu of unexcelled delicacy and liberal provision, after which, with a little music and conversazione, we discover the hours far advanced and take the cars at the door for the Southern. Mr. John O Meara gracefull} r shares with his sister the happy privilege of dispensing the honors of the house, and I judge him to be a man of lofty principles, whose character, I m told, soars above reproach. The mainstay and strength of the household, he lovingly assists in rocking the " cradle of declining age," for his gentle mother is advanced to the years of Dr. Oliver Wendell Homes, and celebrates her birthday on the same date with the venerable author. October 4- We attempted to attend mass at nine o clock, but the hour has been changed for the summer. I feel very weak and feverish, and am obliged to keep my room for the day. Had my dinner upstairs, but at four o clock am prepared for the evening, when we shall take our departure for the far West. Mrs. Murphy and the rest at tended mass, then spent some time at the Con vent of the Sacred Heart, at Maryville, and returned at five. After supper our St. Louis friends attend us to the Union Depot, and at 8:15 we enter the " Clebourne" sleeper, and, hav ing crossed the river, retire for the night. HOMEWARD SOUND. 155 October 5. Awoke this morning in St. Joseph s, an ex tensive city, but at one time a modest trad ing post. It was to this vicinity, I believe, that our pioneers first drifted. They then settled in Atchison County, which, being subdivided, located them in Holt County, after which they determined to go farther west, and successfully reached our peerless sunland. The remains of Grandmother Murphy rest in Missouri soil, therefore the grand old State has a claim to our reverence and affection. Our attentive, generous, patient escort, Mr. Shriver, parts with us here, after carefully at tending to the details of our baggage, and making everything as easy as possible for us. He has been most kind and thoughtful for our comfort, yet the "best of friends must part." Steaming over the southernmost line of Ne braska, we find it dried and bleak looking, illy comparing with its fresh green appearance of two months ago. Here it is raining. A heavy, leaden sky throws a gray gloom over the land scape. We are on the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad until we reach Denver, then change to another sleeper, this one returning to St. Louis. Tuesday, October 6. In Nebraska we encounter snow; it is ev- 156 SNAP NOTES. erywhere visible to Denver, where we are brought to a sudden halt by our engine jump ing the track, and we stop with a quick jolt. Ordering a carriage, Mrs. Murphy takes charge, and we are rapidly deposited at the Union Depot, where she secures passage on the next train to Salt Lake. Breakfasting at the depot restaurant, the steward comes forward to inquire regarding our whereabouts since he had seen us at the Windsor two months ago. We are all amused, and Evie s countenance is sub merged in laughter. On the " Buda " vestibule car we resume our journey. Snow, snow, snow, on every side. The mountain steeps, rugged and wild, are wrapped in soft white blankets of snow, and as we approach the great Royal Gorge of the Arkansas, we take seats at the rear of the car to get the benefit of the view. The cliffs seem very familiar to me, so indelibly impressed are they upon my memory. The rest of the party seem very well, but I feel weary and weak. We lunched on the cars at Palmer Lake, and dined at Salida, Monte Christo Hotel, where we had a good warm meal. CHAPTER XVII. SALT LAKE CITY. Wednesday, October 7. WE are up at 7 o clock and breakfast at Palmer House, near the desert. A few miles more and we cross Green River and come upon the desert, which we traveled over by night before. It is a lengthy stretch of desolate, sandy country, with only here and there tufts of desert grass. Sand is drifting everywhere, and the eye only meets desolation as it wanders in search of an oasis. We reach Price about eleven o clock and lunch on the car, as we pass through Castle Gate. Here a jewelry vender enters our par lors and Mrs. Murphy purchases spoons, etc. Evie asked the name of a station, and the itiner ant jeweler answered, " Helper, and don t you think one needs a helper here ? " Evie collapsed . The foliage has all changed. The gorgeous dyes of Autumn, the full-blown matron of the year, are in strong contrast with the green of two short months ago. Only industry and (167) 158 SNAP NOTES. Mormonism could thrive in this sage -ridden country. The Book Mountains are a curiosity indeed, the strata, or layers, lying like books, even and continuous, and they carry the eye along in wonder until the next bowlder repeats the last or reaches more determinedly to cloud- land. At two o clock we steam along through the happily reel aimed Great Salt Lake Valley, which is again extended before us for miles under greenswards and teeming orchards. The city of Zion gained at four o clock, we listen to the repetition of Albany s confusion of hackmen, and finally secure the Walker House coach. At the hotel I find a letter awaiting me from Josie, which, of course, I eagerly read. Mrs. Murphy ordered a carriage, and we were driven by a cockney coachman all over the city, and, being glib of tongue and full of wit, we had double benefit in our sight- seeing. Temple Square incloses the tabernacle and temple, but their doors had just been closed, and we were deprived of an interesting sight. The Assembly House is also a feature in this square of fine buildings. Thence we viewed all the late Brigham Young s possessions, his own grounds being defended by an adobe and stone wall. The graveyard where lie his re mains is in the center of the town almost, and SALT LAKE CITY. 159 beside him repose six of his wives. "The rest are with the prophets." We were shown two of his daughters and a son and I think about & thousand sons-in-law and other connections. The Tithe house adjoins Brigham Young s dwelling, but the Endowment house has been burned down. The far-famed prophet Young had been the father of sixty-one children, but only eighteen were living at the time of his death enough, however, to perpetuate his name. We saw three of the twelve disciples. There is nothing suggestive of religious dignity in their bearing or manner. Mormonism has been somewhat bettered of late years. The Edmunds Bill, considerable legislation, and Mrs. Walker s and Miss Kate Field s lectures have all contributed towards the amelioration of the deluded Mormon women, who formerly were the slaves of the elders. The number of wives is limited, and the husband is required to support all properly. It is said that some of the elders wives agree perfectly, drive out to gether, dine, and call, and tender to each the courtesy of refinement and respect, whereas other wives do not even glance at each other: it is a trial of temperament and character. From Prospect Hill we watched the sun sink ing down the western sky, its brilliant gleams 160 SNAP NOTES. reflected most gorgeously in the calm, broad waters of Great Salt Lake ; it was a beautiful picture. The Jordan winds its way to the lake. We are in the city of Zion; the apostles are here. May it not be the New Jerusalem? Yet no, for the Jews are Gentiles here. Well, it is a fine city. The streets are one hundred and thirty- five feet wide, with twenty feet for sidewalks. The trees are thrifty, varied, and numerous. We are shown the residence of Bishop Scan- Ian, built of brick, with stone front, also the church. After a look at Fort Douglas, the rough spurs of the Uintahs, the pass through which the hardy Mormons entered the valley, we return to the Walker and dine. We take a room for the night, and at 12:30 P. M. we are ready for the West-bound train, whereon Mrs. Murphy has secured a drawing room. Upon presenting our tickets, however, it is discovered that the drawing room has been sold in Chicago through to California, so we hearken to an animated discussion between the guilty agent and Mrs. Murphy, and the mistake is finally adjusted after w r e reach Ogden. They give us three lower berths, so, at two o clock, we claim them, very weary-eyed and languid. CHAPTER XVIII. HOME AGAIN. Thursday, October 8. AWOKE at Terrace, Nevada, The same old bleak, bald pate of the prairie looms up be fore us, and the wings of desolation, folded since we left the Colorado desert, have been flapped over this dreary, lonesome place. Our breakfast is served from the buffet. The porter informs us that we shall reach San Francisco at 9:15 to morrow morning, which for me means that I gain the threshold of home in the evening, and be again amongst rny loved ones. It seems so long since I left them, and in the quietude of that happy scene of serenity and love, I shall experience indescribable pleasure in relating the incidents of this tour and the enjoyment it has afforded me. We reached Elko at noon, and received the San Francisco papers, looking at them as into the faces of familiar acquaintances. I have felt ill all day, and as night draws her man tle, am ready for repose. There are several 11 (161) 102 SXAP NOTES. peculiar characters on board, who present a different phase of life to those unsophisticated in its ways, as myself, and they are a source of disgust to us. Friday, October 9. During the night we passed over the Sierras, and I have again missed seeing them. At five o clock this morning we stopped at Sacramento, and we rise, dress for sight-seeing, and behold the broad bosom of the Sacramento Valley bared before us. There is a familiar look to the country, and erelong we steam into Benicia, thence crossing on the Solano, whose motion is hardly perceptible. The serrated peninsula of Marin lies dreamily on our right, the calm blue waters of San Pablo laving its base, as they shine in the morning sunlight. At 9:15 we step off the ferryboat fit the foot of Market Street, and friends near and dear greet us home, and we keenly realize that o > " Mid pleasures and palaces," etc., "There s no place like home." And now my companions go south to San Jose, and I turn north to San Rafael, each filled with happy meinorie^^fegJa^gure given and received. WVBRSITY